With my list of bulbs I am combining
Sane A Supplement to
Farr’s Hardy Plant Specialties
in which I am offering many new shrubs and plants of recent
introduction, none of which are included in my general cata-
logue. Both the Bulb List and the Supplement will be mailed
to my regular customers, and to all others who request a copy.
It is generally known that there is a shortage of bulbs this year; this fact,
coupled with transportation difficulties, means that few bulbs will be received.
Prompt orders are your only assurance of securing the varieties you need,
FARR’S
Hardy Plant Specialties
is a complete catalogue of new and
rare Peonies, Irises, Lilacs, and
many other full collections of plants
and shrubs; invaluable to every
gardener. If you do not have a
copy of this book (edition 1918)
write for it to-day.
BERTRAND H. FARR
Wyomissing Nurseries Company
104 Garfield Avenue, Wyomissing, Penna.
FRUIT TREES
Ready to Bear Next Year
These trees have been transplanted and root-pruned to
develop extra large specimens, which can safely be dug
and shipped this fall. It is entirely reasonable to expect
some fruit from them next year. My general catalogue
gives full list of varieties with prices.
ROSES
For Autumn Planting
Extra large, 4 and 5 years old, including Climbers, Ru-
gosas, etc. All transplanted within a year, and have a
mass of fibrous roots, insuring growth and bloom. Com-
plete list in my general cata'ogue.
NORWAY MAPLES
Thrifty, good tops, straight trunks, and a customer writes
“they sure have some root-growth.”’ There is no better
tree for street or shade.
12 to 15 feet high, $2.00 each 14 to 16 feet high, $3.50 each
16 to 20 feet high, $5.00 each
General Catalogue of Trees and Shrubs, or
Special Catalogue of Peonies, Phlox, and hardy plants mailed on request
ROSE DALE NURSERIES
S. G. HARRIS, Proprietor
Box G, Tarrytown, N. Y.
THE
ATRDEN
MAGAZINE
iy
i)
‘
N
Cover DesicN—Fourtu Liserty Loan “Dice IN
AND Dic Up Att You Can” £. Drake
PAGE
AMERICAN PLANTS FOR AMERICAN GARDENS = = 73
Wuy Prant Now? - - - - - - - - = = 7
Next Year's Foop GaRDENS - - - - - = = 73
Amonc Our Garpen NEIGHBORS - - - = - - 74
THREE ILLUSTRATIONS
Plan in the Fall—That Blue-Berried Vitis—Success
with Fall Sown Sweet Peas—A Novel Centre Piece—
Stake Tomatoes, or Not?—Fighting Tomato Leaf Curl
—Osceola the Periwinkle City—‘Whence Comes the
Aster Louse?’”’—Buddleia Asiatica as a Decorative Plant
—China Needs Chinese Plants!—The Vigor of the
Bleeding Heart—Azalea in New _England—Wanted,
the Universal Soil—Our Polyglot Garden
Roots aNnD BuLss FoR WINTER FLOWERING
Sketch by the author W. Sheward 76
Tue Garven “Moviss’” No. 10 - - - = = - 77
Photographs by W. C. McCollom
Tue Montu’s REMINDER - - = - - = - - 78
Tue Patriotic GARDEN- - - - = = = = = 79
Rear ExpeRIENCE IN DryInc GARDEN PRODUCE
William Leslie French 79
Photographs pages 79, 80 by author, and Food
Administration
Way Prant Fruit Trees Tus Fatt? M.G.Kains 81
Srartinc Next YEAR’s Foop GarDEN
Photographs by the author Professor D. Lumsden 82
How To SucceED witH Fatt Prantine Alex. Lurie 83
How Azsout Next Year’s SEED? F. F. Rockwell 84
Photographs by the Author
STORING THE Crops For WINTER UsE f
Professor R. L. Kirkpatrick 85
Photographs by the author
Nut Trees As Foop Propucers Robert T. Morris 87
Photographs supplied by William Roper
Fait PLANTING FOR SPRING FLOWERS
Plan by the author Isabella Pendleton 88
Don’t Hurry WINTER PRoTecTION oF Roses
Photographs by the author S.C. Hubbard 89
Dr. WatterR VAN FieeT - - - - - - L£.B. 92
Photograph by Rockwood, N. Y.
Uncie Sam’s GarpENING - - JL rances Duncan 94.
Porators Grown UNpER A Straw Mutcu
Photograph by the author 155 dk, Murphy 96
Witp Firower Conservation - U. R. Perrine 97
Growinc Musurooms For PrRoFir
Samuel H. Garekol 98
An ExpERIMENT AND Two OBSERVATIONS
Dau.ias, Beans, Porators »L. V. Wilson 98
HOUSEHODDS EINTS in meen)
VOLUME XXVIII, No. 3.
Published Monthly, 25c. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year.
For Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
COPYRIGHT, 1918, BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Boston: Tremont Bldg.
New York: 120 W. 32nd St.
S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
Cuicaco: Peoples Gas Bldg.
Los ANGELES: Van Nuys Bldg.
F. N. DOUBLEDAY, President
ARTHUR W. PAGE,
HERBERT S. HOUSTON,
Vice-Presidents Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
: under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879 s
P PP <<“ L.
Totes wer << ee
ep ey GCS
pS ‘As NSO a GED tam — permanent gardens and to introduce my “ pets,’’
~ Illsend
ey
a
12 Choice Iris for $1.00
12 Select Peonies for $2.00
12 Fine Phlox for $1.00
_ f° Send $3.50 for all three collections and
; receive an extra choice Peony and a big
surprise FREE.
/
j
“Lest you forget’? my
’ catalogue is at your dis-
\ 25) posal—a postcard re
“Ww 5 quest is sufficient.
ee George N. Smith
te Wellesley
ce) Hills
Mass.
Timm TU
ull Tt tinct
TUM TT
cL
Bobbink & Atkins
Visit
Nursery
Ask for
Catalogue
NN KS
PLANT NOW
While conditions are ideal
Everéreens, ‘Trees and Shrubs,
Home-¢grown Roses, Old-fashioned
Flowers, Rock Plants
All represented to perfection at our Nursery
Be sure to include in your plantings our
New Hybrid Pyrethrums and Giant
Flowered Marshmallow
These are but two of our specialties, and both uphold our name
Rutherford, New Jers ey
ee — oo
li
Se ee eee i TT
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Rudyard Kipling
Kathleen Norris
Edna Ferber
Peter Clarke Macfarlane
Dr. Frank Crane
Gene Stration-Porter
OcTOBER,
1918
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FAMOUS AUTHORS
who are represented on our new fall list
RUDYARD KIPLING
This new book of poems is one of inspiration and enlightenment —a touchstone to rekindle courage in the determ-
ination that our ideals are worth preserving at heavy cost. To be published late this month. Net, $1.50;
eather, net, $2.00.
““GETHSEMANE”’
A second book from this famous author’s pen is a collection of letters purporting to have been written by an East
Indian trooper serving in the army of his Mother Country, to his people at home. It breathes the spirit of India,—
calm, deep-thinking and fearless. To be published late this month. Net, $1.00.
“THE EYES OF ASIA”
BOOTH TARKINGTON
is an American author. This is a novel of American family life, and its characters are the people you see about
you every day.
This story of how the magnificent George gets his “comeuppance” will appeal to all Tarkington readers. Net,
$1.40. To be published late this month.
“THE MAGNIFICENT AMBERSONS’’
GENE STRATTON-PORTER
is one of our most internationally read present day writers. More than 7,000,000 of her books have been sold.
Her new novel is wholly characteristic of her others. It is sound, wholesome fiction. The New York Sun calls it
“Gene Stratton-Porter’s best.’’ That will give you some idea of the pleasures which await you. Net, $1.40.
“A DAUGHTER OF THE LAND”’’
KATHLEEN NORRIS’S
latest novel tells the story of sweet, submissive Ellen Latimer, transported by a whirlwind marriage from the
humdrum existence of a small country town to the luxuries of we2thy social life in New York.
There is a time when the young second wife of Gibbs’s father -hreatens to break up their happy married life.
Then comes the crash. Through the long agonies of a murd:r trial it is the wife he has neglected who upholds
him. An absorbing novel, proving the power of a woman’s fzith. Net, $1.40.
“JOSSELYN’S WIFE”
EDNA FERBER
knows humanity in every condition of life—and she knows how to :..ake he: _-2der actually live with her charac-
ters. The people in this book are of the sort you know very well indzea— tnz»., old dog,” “the woman who
tried to be good,” “‘Sadie as she might have been,” “the guiding Miss Ge.vd ’ and au cue others. “Shore Leave”
is particularly timely. Net, $1.40. “CHEERFUL— BY REQUEST”
C.N. & A. M. WILLIAMSON
conduct the reader through the cities and towns of France that appear daily in the headlines of your newspaper.
The romance of the devastated cities and the romance of the Irish war nurse, Mary, and her lost American lover
run parallel. To be published late this month. Net, $1.40
“EVERYMAN’S LAND”’
PETER B. KYNE
In this novel of the California red wood forests, strong men battle for a section of country as big as a principal-
ity. The fight of the Cardigans, father and son, to hold their valley of the giants against the treachery of Colonel
Pennington, and the unexpected part played by the Colonel’s niece, make a stirring tale. Illustrated. Net. $1.40.
“THE VALLEY OF THE GIANTS”
HARRIET T. COMSTOCK
Self-sacrifice is the spirit of this story. The happiness that comes to those who give is the lot of Mam’selle Jo.
who wins her way by hard and bitter experience through a slough of debts to financial independence. The book
fits the spirit of the times. Illustrated. Net, $1.40. “MAM?SELLE jo”
PETER CLARKE MACFARLANE
has in this book written a story combining the strong fictional appeal of his novel “Held to Answer” and the polit-
ical knowledge gained through years of investigation of civic and national affairs.
A story of love and politics in a big American city, and at the same time a drama of universal human interest.
Illustrated. Net, $1.40.
a “THE CRACK IN THE BELL”
At Your Bookseller’s
‘Doubleday, Page & Co.
Garden City | New York
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in wriling—and we will, too
YULGEEE:
Booth Tarkington
Ab
A. M. Williamson
Albert Payson Terhune
Peter B. Kyne
The Garden Magazine
American Plants for American
Gardens
S ONE of the results of the great war to be
a reaction on the materials of our gardens?
It may be perhaps altogether too far reach-
ing even to dream of an all-American garden
but, on the other hand, it cannot be disputed
that in the past we have followed so slavishly the
leads of the foreign trade that the splendid mater-
ial of our own land has been given only secondary
consideration. Even sucha plantas the summer-
flowering Perennial Phlox, thorough-going native
that it is, is hardly appreciated as such because
in its improved varieties it comes to us with the
touch of the finishing education of a French
school.
The very names that we read in the popular
varieties were transported to us across the seas
and while we return thanks to those progressive
horticulturists of the Old World who saw the
possibilities of our native flower, we should not
forget that fundamentally the Perennial Phlox
only comes to its own when it is re-transported
to the gardens of America.
Unfortunately, except for certain so called
“wild plants’—that is species that remain
unimproved at the hands of the horticulturists,
and which are collected rather than grown—
there are very limited supplies of really charac-
teristic American plants even in our leading
nurseries. Of course certain shrubs, collected
plants of Rhododendrons, Kalmia and An-
_ dromeda and such like are familar enough; but of
the hosts of other available material of real merit
there are comparatively limited quantities.
Yet these things must sooner or later form the
background of the American garden. They are
the proper thing to plant because they are essen=
tially and absolutely at home. Strange exotics
can be introduced into gardens as embellishments
and as “accents” but the background should
look domestic.
There are many really desirable small-growing
plants, that, equally with the Phlox, could fit
into the American garden and undoubtedly as
_ time goes on more and more attention will be
given to them.
Of course, it would not be reasonable to suggest
the banishment from our gardens of any intrin-
sically valuable plant simply on the ground that
it is a foreigner. We need the Irises, and the
Peonies and the Roses and some other popular
flowering plants that give their wealth of bloom
to the delight of our gardens. We welcome them
because they actually fit, and recent years have
seen tremendously important acquisitions in
OCTOBER, 1918
all these groups as the results of the workings of
the plantsmen of America.
Where the exotic plant is found to be fitting
and plastic in the hands of our own craftsman, so
that characteristic types and varieties are pro-
duced that fit our own needs, we have in that
fact sufficient proof that the plants merit further
attention.
Little by little we are learning in this country
how to develop Larkspurs, Primroses, and Pyre-
thrums that are more resistant to the climatic
trials than their congeners from across the ocean;
and, as the supplies of foreign material become
more difficult of attaining, our dealers will natur-
ally turn more and more to the available material
at hand. The ultimate result cannot do other-
wise than ease the work of our awakened garden-
ing while adding greatly to the beauty of our sur-
roundings, because the material will be healthy
—it will in fact make a really American garden.
In Europe to-day, the so called “American
Garden” is devoted to Rhododendrons’ and allied
plants that demand a soil more or less sour and
peaty. In brief, the American garden is con-
ceived by our friends as a garden of Ericaceous
plants. Perhaps in the near future we shall be
able to demonstrate to them that an American
garden can show as much diversity as any other
kind and that we have at our hands plants of
sterling merit that do not of necessity grow in
peat.
Why Plant Now?
HIS month we stress with more than usual
emphasis the spJendid opportunities of fall
planting. It was not so very long ago that fall
planting was regarded as a tantastic dream by
the majority of people who were not expert
horticulturists.
That a plant can be moved in the fall, when its
seasonal activity is on the decrease and it is fast
approaching the dormant stage, surely does not
now need any bolstering argument. In the
nurseries the fall season has always been the
period for the rearrangement of stock. Enough
said!
This year the argument for fall planting is
greater than usual because of the decided uncer-
tainty of conditions next spring. Freight and
express may possibly be badly congested, worse
than they were in the spring of this year.
In the spring plants are starting to grow and
must be put into their permanent places with
the utmost speed. The curve of growing activity
is upward in the spring but in the fall the curve
is on the down grade. Delay in transit at this
time of year, barring frost, is of no consequence
73
NuMBER 3
to the plant’s vitality. The forehanded gardener
will not only place his orders this fall so as to
secure selection of available stock but wherever
possible he will take immediate delivery. This
does not necessarily mean that the final planting
will be done this fall. Indeed it is not necessary.
Stock dug and delivered this fall may be heeled-in
over the winter and is then available for ultimate
disposition in the spring without any delay.
Wherever possible purchasers of stock at this
time are advised to get delivery by express rather
than by freight; and, even though the goods be
delayed somewhat in transit, preparations can
be made at leisure at this time so as to give the
materials the best possible attention on receipt.
Some extra preparation may indeed be very
necessary for late delivery of bulbs, and a bed
prepared at once can be kept from freezing by
proper covering so that the bulbs may be safely
planted well into winter.
Next Year’s Food Garden
"TAKING time by the forelock is the essence
of good gardening; and the leisure in garden-
ing that comes with the declining year may be
turned into productive capital by starting next
years garden now. This has been proven in
more than one sense of the word.
In the first place, when the errors and lessons
during the current year are fresh in mind, the
present is a good time to work over plans and
rearrange the spacings and successions and the
quantities. There is no reason indeed why the
seed order should not be blocked out at this time
when it can be done in the intelligent light of
visible results. ;
Elsewhere in this number of THE GarDEN
MacazineE will be found articles that in one
phase or another discuss fall work in anticipation
of the spring drive. A certain amount of pre-
paration done now will repay tenfold the like
work done next year—and it can be doné more
easily. Soils can be improved by proper atten-
tion now. Don’t wait until spring to increase
available fertility. Add manure now, dig, and
trench; sow rye as a cover crop. It will give the
essential humus.
There are good reasons, too, for planting fruit
trees, even in ornamental borders. Fruit trees
are also flowering trees but if the flowering effect
is not desired give a thought to the possibilities
of nut trees, Filberts for hedges for example,
Walnuts for shade or specimen. One splendid
point about the nut tree is that it yields a valuable
food product in increasing degree without future
attention after it is once planted. Walnuts,
Pecans, Japanese Chestnuts, Filberts, all these
74 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
OcToBER, 1918
to select from and yet few gardens have even
one specimen of any nut. Why? Because it
has not yet become a habit to regard the nut tree
seriously. Isn’t it time that we woke up?
Plan in the Fall—One always reads in the
spring recommendations to begin drawing up
garden plans before planting. Perfectly good
advice of course, but why not a still better idea,
to do it in the autumn? It is then that our mis-
takes are freshest in memory, some being hardly
yet a memory, more an actuality! Errors in
arrangement show up plainly, poor choice of
varieties can be most easily noted, while at the
same time we jot down as a reminder the name of
that more successful sort our next-door neighbor
had. Keep your notebook handy and working
all summer and before the crop of good ideas has
been stored away for winter, sketch out your
next year’s garden plan, even roughly; and then
elaborate if you like, in the spring.—Clare M.
Bell, Ohio.
That Blue-Berried Vitis—I am obliged to
Bernard H. Lane, who gives, in the August num-
ber, such a clear description of the Vitis he has,
that on comparison with the vine I asked about
I am sure they are the same. I note the red
stem and the blue berries, as well as the general
habit of the plant. At the same time [ shall
have to envy him his less rigorous climate of
Washington, D. C., as compared with that of
western New York, for the vine is not quite
hardy here. It froze down to the ground last
winter, as I did not give it any protection. It
came up in the spring, more bushy than ever
before and the leaves in a bunch are very
handsome. It does not always blossom here,
but as the foliage is its chief attraction that does
not matter much.—/John W. Chamberlin, N. Y.
Success With Fall-sown Sweet Peas.—Such
a coincidence! I, like J. W. Ginder, also planted
Sweet Peas two or three days previous to
Thanksgiving Day last year. Though the time
of planting may have been the same yet prob-
ably there is much difference of climate between
Ohio and Washington. My row, only about ten
feet long, was trenched and prepared in the usual
way. I made two little furrows, parallel, about
8 or 10 inches apart, forming a double row.
The little furrows were only 3 or 4 inches deep.
In each I placed a half-inch layer of sifted
sand. On this sand I sowed, rather thickly,
seeds of Hercules, King White, Florence Night-
ingale, and some old seed left over from spring
planting of Margaret Atlee and King Edward.
All were Spencer varieties. Over these seeds
was placed another half-inch layer of sand. The
seeds were simply sandwiched between the
layers of sand. Over all I put fine loam, until
within an inch or two of the top of the furrow.
Planting was followed by mild weather for a
couple of weeks, when there came a rain and
heavy frost. On ascertaining that the ground
was frozen hard I placed over the Sweet Pea
bed a heavy layer of ordinary wheat straw.
The winter was pretty severe and very little
thawing took place from then on; but when I saw
that there was danger I left part of the straw off
at night when sharp weather was expected so as
to freeze the bed hard again. Try as I might,
though, along about March 12th I found Sweet
Peas coming up thick and fast. I then took
off about half the straw. Soon the seedlings
were coming through that amount of straw and I
drove sticks in the space between the two rows
and on cold nights burlap was placed over them,
the sticks preventing the weight of the burlap
from contact with the seedlings. Only two seeds
of Florence Nightingale came up. I attributed
this to the fact that Florence Nightingale is a
wrinkled seeded Sweet Pea, and probably tender,
as is its cousin the wrinkled garden pea. But I
don’t think one seed of King White, Hercules,
King Edward or Margaret Atlee failed to come
up. My Sweet Peas had no frame whatever. No
coddling except what a little burlap on freezing
nights could furnish, and the spring was fully two
weeks backward, yet on June 12th I picked my
first flowers, and had them in greatest abundance,
very large flowers and say! but my Hercules
had some stem—like a hand spike! The summer
was cool and they had no watering, and were not
troubled to any great extent by aphis. I have
found a fine spray from the hose a good remedy
for aphis. I attribute my success, first to the
sand at planting, which drains away all surplus
moisture; keeping the ground well frozen through
the winter, and after the seeds are up giving pro-
tection during hard freezing weather. But for
fall planting generally, I believe the smooth
seeded varieties will prove most successful.—
Mrs. R. W. Walters, Ohio.
A Novel Centre Piece—One day last fall I
found myself without either flowers or ferns for
my dining table and began looking for a tempor-
ary substitute. Some Pachysandra was growing
near the front walk and the green leaves stood
out boldly against the drooping foliage of the
other plants, which had been killed by the frost.
In a moment of inspiration I picked a number
of these leaves, getting them with fairly long
The Mountain Spurge (Pachysandra) is an enduring evergreen
or indoor decoration
stems, and thrust them into a low, glass bowl,
using a wire support, purchased for Pansies, to
hold them in position. The broad leaves hid the
support almost entirely and gave the impression
of a growing plant. ‘The effect was so pleasing
that I decided to keep the unusual centre piece
until the leaves wilted or dropped. Well, they
are still green and glossy when this is written,
early in March. I have changed the water fre-
quently, or, rather, have added fresh water as
that in the bowl has evaporated, and have kept
the bowl out of the direct sunlight, butthe
tenacious hold on life shown by the leaves is most
surprising. ‘The bowl of green foliage is much
admired by guests, although few know from what
plant the leaves came. Sometimes I have
added a few red berries for the time being, small
Rose hips or Hawthorn fruits, and the effect has
been cheerful. Nothing which I have used on
the dining table has required so little attention
or proved more generally satisfactory. It may
be that other housekeepers will like to know
about this little experiment.—Harriet Farring-
ton.
Stake Tomatoes, or Not?—There is some-
thing to be said in favor of both the staking and
let-alone systems of growing tomatoes, but one
point in favor of the former was proven satis-
factorily to me this} summer. Being one of a
committee of War Garden judges I had oppor-
tunity of seeing gardens of all sorts under varied
conditions, and in almost every instance, those
tomatoes that had been trimmed and staked
and given good cultivation had escaped the dry,
or blossom end, rot so prevalent here this season,
while the let-alone vines had suffered more or
less badly.—Clare M. Bell, Ohio.
Fighting Tomato Leaf Curl—If the tomato
vines in the back yard garden were afflicted
with leaf curl this summer, it is reasonably certain
that they will be similarly afflicted next summer.
The spores live over in the soil, and the limits
of such a garden are too restricted to make a
planting shift effective. The only thing to do
is to settle down to fight the disease the best you
may as long as you grow tomatoes in that place.
If nothing is done you will find that however
sturdy your plants may be when you set them
out the lower leaves will soon begin to show signs
of curling. This will follow up the plants as
they grow, getting steadily worse. The disease
can’t be cured, so it must be endured and held in
check as much as possible. To do this it is nec-
essary to begin at the beginning. See that all
the earth in which the seeds are planted and to
which the seedlings are transplanted is thoroughly
sterilized. This may be done by saturating it
with formaldehyde and water—one ounce of
40-per cent. formaldehyde to one gallon of
water. No planting should be done until the
solution has evaporated—in about ten days or
two weeks. Also dip the flats in the solution and
letitdryonthem. ‘This should protect the plants
until they are set in the garden and give them as
good a start as possible. Just before setting out
dip the plants top first into a bucket of bordeaux
mixture, or Pyrox or some other proprietary modi-
fication of it; and theri every ten days or two weeks
give them a thorough spraying with a similar solu-
tion. This will prevent the disease from becoming
serious, and with good culture, fertilization, and
irrigation, the vines can be carried through their
usual season—until a killing frost—in fairly good
bearing condition. I have had the leaf curl in
my garden for about six years, and for a time
thought that it would be necessary to abandon
tomatoes, but with the treatment here outlined
I have raised fairly good crops—W. L. Wilson,
Indiana.
Osceola the Periwinkle City—When I struck
the little city of Osceola, Ark., last autumn I
knew right away that the people there took the
Vinca (or Madagascar Periwinkle) seriously.
That is, I knew they gave it serious consideration
if the prominence a plant is given is a determin-
ing factor. Vincas were growing upon every avail-
able foot of soil in the little river port. They
grew upon both public and private grounds.
Long straight rows of the glistening pink and
white blossoms above the oily green foliage bor-
dered the sidewalks and beds of other flowers.
In the gardens of many individuals this dainty
flower found first place. I could not understand
its popularity and asked an old Negro gardener
to explain it to me. His answer embodied a
motto that would be good for every gardener to
follow: “When you find a good thing, stick to
it.’ Then he told me of the difficulties the
gardeners of his town had experienced prior to
the advent of the Vinca. The alluyial Miss-
issippi River soil contained so much nitrogen and
other elements of plant food that Petunias and
Phloxes had crawled over the ground like water-
melon vines. Geraniums had imitated toma-
toes in their manner of growth—and other bed-
ding plants did likewise. Therefore when an
up-to-date gardener succeeded with a row of
Vineas everyone in town admired and copied.
That is how Osceola came to be regarded as the
“Periwinkle city,” for that is what everybody
calls it—Buford Reid, Osceola, Ark.
6G
OctoBeER, 1918
‘‘Whence Comes the Aster Louse?’”’ asks one of
the “Neighbors” in August, page 30. The name
is wrong. It is ground or blue aphis, very
troublesome in continuing dry weather and tend-
ed to and carried by ants. Whenever you notice
ants working around a plant be sure that they
prepare the nest for their milch cows “the aphis.”
Watering with a medium strength of nicotin
solution—say two tablespoons to one gallon of
water—uwill stop the ants from further work. Des-
troy all ant nests in your garden with the same
treatment. My experience is this: 1. Never
use fresh stable manure for flower beds; take well
rotted two or three year old cow manure or com-
mercial fertilizer; 2. Treat the whole bed (espec-
ially Asters) with flowers of sulphur, rake it in
after spading, or else make a hole with a small
tool, put in a liberal dose of sulphur so that it
covers all the walls of the hole, set your Aster,
and, when you have finished, water. This treat-
- ment is also good for vegetable plants which are
likely to contract the same trouble—cabbage,
rutabaga, etc. When seeding onions, radishes,
turnips, etc., in drills, put in first the flowers of
sulphur, then the seed. No insect will go near
it. Flowers of sulphur is cheap, will not affect
the growth, nor will it spoil the taste.—George
Wendt, Holland, Mich.
—I have something to offer and have tried it
several years and have the finest of flowers.
When sowing the seed work hydrated lime into
the soil, and again when you transplant them in
the bed. I have never had any more trouble
with the louse since using the lime which is the
fine lime (powdered) that plasterers use for finish-
ing walls. I get it at the hardware stores.—
ie. C G. Harticy, Ohio.
Buddleia Asiatica as a Decorative Plant.—
Buddleia variabilis and its various forms are
well known as summer-blooming shrubs out-
doors. B. asiatica, while equally hardy, is of
no value in the open as its racemes appear too
late. However, as a greenhouse plant it is one
of the finest we have for midwinter flowering.
Two years ago our plants did not often see flowers
until January. Last year the earliest batch
were at their best for Christmas, while this year
I had a number in perfect flower for Thanksgiv-
ing, although the plants had not had any higher
temperature than 50 degrees at night. The
delicious fragrance of the pure white racemes of
flowers, which are borne in great prefusion, and
the fact that it has good keeping qualities in both
the house and the ordinary greenhouse, make it
a plant of peculiar value to the small grower.
It is of the easiest propagation and culture, suc-
ceeding best when planted outdoors from June
until October. It can be grown in either bush or
standard form, and big handsome plants can be
grown in ten months from cuttings. Buddleia
Farquhari with light pink racemes, wider than
those of B. asiatica, makes a fine companion to
the latter. Any one possessing a small green-
house or good sunny bay window can succeed
with either of these charming winter-flowering
ee as they are commonly termed.—/V. N. C.,
Mass.
China Needs Chinese Plants!—We read THE
Garpen Macazine with great profit as garden-
_ ing 1s our hobby and recreation aside from supply-
ing our table with food the year around, and pro-
ducing flowers for the sick as well as ourselves.
_ We continually see mention of Wilson’s “finds”
in China and wish we might profit by the infor-
mation gained by his and others’ scientific efforts
here. Is there a report of the desirable things
with the location in China and any information
as to where we ourselves can get these things here?
If he has the Chinese names for these things it
ould be of help to us in securing them. I see
Chinese “Hugonis” Rose advertised widely.
Do you know where this can be secured in China?
e have had great disappointments in getting
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
stock from America. Some things can be se-
cured from Japan and of course some things
locally. We are only a few hours from Shanghai,
in a fine climate in a district of great fertility—
cotton, and beans in the summer, wheat in the
winter for main crops. We have scores of Deu-
tzia from slips of a local variety which is wild in
the mountains of Kiang-Si. What can we graft
onto it? We have D. scabra, Sieboldiana, Lem-
oinii, secured from Japan last year. I suppose
they can all be grafted on to it, but what else?—
G. L. Hagman, Nan Tung Chow, China.
—Unfortunately, so far as we know, there is no
such thing as a Chinese nurseryman. Mr. Wil-
son’s plants are listed in “Plantae Wilsoniana,”
published by the Arnold Arboretum, Harvard
University, Boston Mass., it is purely technical.
The Chinese names are not generally given. It
is doubtful whether the plants have universal
Chinese names, as they came chiefly from the
interior regions of western China. Why graft
Deutzias at all? They strike so easily from cut-
tings and “own root” plants are far preferable
to any grafted plants.—E£d.
The Vigor of the Bleeding-Heart—The Bleed-
ing-heart is a plant that apparently conquers
by yielding. I have known it to pass through
winter after winter when the temperature drop-
Bleeding-Heart (Dicentra) for all its fragile looks stands 30
_ degrees below zero
ped as low as thirty below zero for weeks at a
time and this with no covering other than the
snow. A late and exceedingly heavy frost
catches it in May when ready to bloom and
though the herbage wilts down to the ground the
courageous plant is up again in less than three
weeks. Then the first day of July, a hail storm,
such as only the prairies know, pounds it down
flat to the ground and toward the end of July
And will grow in full sunshine as well as in partial shade
the herbage is well along in its growth again.
The Bleeding-heart will grow in full sun and in
places where any direct sunlight reaches it only
for an hour or two each day. ‘The one drawback,
its tendency to ripen its foliage soon after its
blossoming period and become untidy in appear-
ance, is no great drawback when the gardening
season is so short any way; besides, cutting down
the herbage or planting it where shrubs or later
growth will hide it, overcomes this defect very
nicely. If you don’t know what else to plant, plant
a Bleeding-heart—C. L. Meller, North Dakota.
15
Azalea in New England—Are you not too
pessimistic in your statements that Azalea vis-
cosa is the only hardy Azalea in New England?
At Wellesley Azaleas arborescens, calendulacea,
nudiflora, and viscosa are perfectly hardy. The
Ghent Azaleas are practically hardy, and the
finest of all. Azalea Vaseyi never suffers, a
plant of this in moist soil 15 feet high is a sight.
Azalea Kaempferi does not suffer, and at the
Arnold Arboretum there are probably many
more varieties. I think it is a pity to discourage
people from trying different varieties of shrubs
and especially in this case. Azalea Vaseyi seems
to me to be one of the best shrubs we have; it
seems to like moisture and nothing could be more
beautiful than a mass of Azalea Vaseyi in bloom
with a foreground of, Darwin Tulips.—4d. S. H.
Wanted, the Universal Soil—I would like to
ask the experts if there is anything extant in the
nature of a universal soil, such as practically all
sorts of plants will grow freely in? I used to
suppose that any deep, rich soil was fit for all
the ordinary flowering plants and vegetables,
but recent experience does not confirm the idea,
For instance Asters, Cannas, Dahlias and some
other plants do not like a soil that is so light that
it dries out quickly. Even a good deal of water-
ing fails to put them at their best. A heavier
soil suits them so much better that I shall try to
provide it for them hereafter. Then I am told
by an experienced Rose grower that it is useless
to plant Roses in light soil. They want heavy
clay. My potatoes, cucumbers, onions and other
shallow-rooted vegetables refuse to produce
crops in light soil, but corn does remarkably well
and all root crops thrive in it. What would
happen if I should adopt a clay soil and put every-
thing into that? Would certain other things
suffer then? Again is this a matter of the fer-
tility of the soil, or a mere lack of adaptability
to the mere physical condition of it? I am in-
clined to believe that it is the latter. Then
there is the shade proposition. Some plants do
not like it, while others die in the heat of a sunny
season. With us the amount of sun provided in
one season, differs widely from another. My
Godetias will not blossom till they can get into
the shade for at least a part of the day, and may-
be die if it is not afforded. Even Portulacas
suffer. So far as I am informed, and I read all
the books I can find, the authorities are pretty
silent on this subject. Then there is the treat-
ment for insects, such as will kill them outright.
There ought to be something of that sort. I can
deal with slugs, cabbage worms, potato beetles
and aphis, but can do nothing with the tarnished
plant bug, which makes it impossible to flower
Dahlias here and severely injures Calendulas
and Asters.— John W. Chamberlin.
[—It is hardly to be expected that all the con-
ditions governing the life of all plants can be re-
duced to one common denominator. The surface
of the earth varies and different regions develop
different florasin nature. We try to combine all
in our gardens which are after all very artificial.
A general average of soil with fertility in reserve is
the best we can do. Physical condition of the
soil is recognized asa great factor in estimating
its value for plants, because air and water must
circulate through it. Nor do we think it probable
that a general insecticide will be discovered that
will surely kill the pests instantaneously without
also destroying the plants, for both areliving things
and have certain factors in common.—E£d.
Our Polyglot Garden.—Has anybody no-
ticed that gardens were more than usually poly-
glot this year? It may be traceable, like every-
thing truly modern, to the war. I shall never
get to planting “‘all the beans of the Allies,” as
one friend enthusiastically proposed to do; I
had one mouthful of the English broad beans at
a Chester hotel one July years ago that convinced
me I should never agree with the English taste
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Octosper, 1918
in vegetables. It seemed to be a bean nurtured
in the refuse of a glue factory, sprayed with
kerosene, plucked and kept in a dark cellar till
it bluemoulded—then cooked and served, with a
minimum of salt, and all the adventitious flavors
well retained. I had never seen the horrid
bounder grown in this country, and never want
to. [That's all right in Chester but just you try
them in England or better Scotland. The Amer-
ican climate is too hot.—E£d.] But other “‘beans of
the Allies” are more or less in evidence here-
abouts in my district. As a curiosity, the fava,
Roots and Bulbs for Winter Flowering w. ssewarp
Tuuips, Hyacintus, and Narcissus in
boxes if intended for cutting, or in pots and
pans for house decoration. Soil: Equal parts
of plain loam, leaf soil, and sand will make a
good mixture for potting. Mix well together
and pass through a +-inch sieve. The rough
material from the screening can be used for drain-
age in pots and boxes.
Planting: With boxes the first thing is to make
holes for drainage in the bottom of the boxes
(Figure 18).. Over the holes place crocks, or
pieces of broken pots (Fig. 17), and the rough
material from the potting soil over the crocks,
putting the fine soil on top. Fig. 1 shows a
section through a box. Fig. 2 shows the right
depth to plant and Fig. 3 how to space the
bulbs in the box. Fig. 5 shows a section
through a pot. Place crocks over the hole
in the bottom of the pot, rough material
over the crocks, and fine soil on top. Figs.
6 and 13 show the right depth to plant
the bulbs. Fig. 14 shows how to place the
crocks over the holes in the bottom of a pan.
When the bulbs are planted or potted place
Fae ai aaa hr Sree aiivuist se ayuMN ater
Se Se
fewer f =
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a
COCONUT FIBER
7
or Italian horse-bean, is the most striking feature
of some American vegetable plots, as well as of
some Italian residents’ gardens. It is not like a
bean in physique, but more like some of the
leguminous weeds of the Rocky Mountain flora.
It has pale gray-green, glaucous three-parted
leaves coming horizontally from a strong, angled
stem about a yard high, branchless. At the
axils, clusters of three or four flowers are borne,
white and black, rotting to inky shreds in rainy
weather, and each cluster succeeded by one
Martynia-like pod sticking up skyward in an
them in a root cellar, or, if no root cellar is
available, in a pit outside 2 feet deep and covered
with planks and manure as shown in Fig. 7.
Place cocoanut fiber refuse over the boxes and
pots 6 inches deep. When the bulbs begin
to send out small roots as shown in Fig. 4
take them inside in batches as required and
place under the greenhouse stage (or in a dark
closet), water well and hang some sacking in
front to keep them dark, Fig. 11. About two
weeks later put in a light place to flower.
Lity-oF-THE-VALLEY is generally bought in
bunches of twenty-five. A 6-inch pot will take
twenty-five pips or crowns. Make a good
drainage by placing crocks and rough material
in the bottom of the pots (Fig. 5), and pot up
the roots spreading them out evenly (Fig. 8).
A flat piece of wood is used to get the roots in
the pot. See Fig. 15. Place moss over the
crowns and cover with another 6-inch pot,
Fig. 9. Watering: When potted place the pots
in a propagating pit or a frame in the greenhouse
where there is bottom heat with a temperature
(see Fig. 12).
assertive manner and rapidly taking on size and
padding. The beans when ripe are olive-drab
in color, irregularly round, flattened, with a
heavy skin, and larger than limas.
green, or dried and boiled, they are a rich food. —
Sicilians serve them with plain macaroni and —
grated cheese, peeling the beans one by oneon the
fork as they are taken up steaming hot. They are
hearty, and of good flavor. Plants yield heavily
in hot seasons. They should be grown four in
a hill, and well earthed up for support; they do
best planted in March or April—E&. S. J.
of 85 degrees, plunging the pots up to the rims
in cocoanut refuse. Fig. 19 shows a sectional
view of a propagating pit. Water twice a day
using rain water if possible and heating it to
the temperature of the pit—85 degrees. In
about two weeks the plants will be up to the
top of the pot (Fig. 10). Remove the top
pot. In a few days the flowers will begin to
open. This is the time to remove the foliage
The first few batches early in
the year do not make much foliage but later
make foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Where the Lily-of-the-valley is forced every
week for cut flowers the foliage is used from
the preceding batch. When the foliage is cut,
stand the pots out of the fiber (Fig. 20).
SpirEA: Pot up the clumps in 6-inch pots,
ramming the soil firmly with a wooden rammer
as shown in Fig. 15. Place in a pit (Fig. 7),
and take into the greenhouse when needed.
Spirea likes plenty of water so stand in saucers,
(Fig. 16). When watering do not wet the leaves
but fill up the saucers.
SIT
TSHEWARD
Cooked { |
SAVING THE TENDER VEGETABLES. When frost first
touches peppers, egg plant, tomatoes, etc., gather the crop
and store in a dry cool place. Placing in boxes between
layers of sawdust will prevent shrivelling. Pumpkins and
squash like heat and must be Kept dry. Alongside the
chimney in the attic or behind the kitchen range makes an
ideal storage for vine crops
Dry STORAGE OF Root Crops. Store carrots and beets in
the cellar. If a cool cellar is not available the roots will of
necessity shrivel in storage and become _ proportionately
tough. Therefore place the roots in boxes with layers of sand
between to exclude the air. Use sand free of loam and not
wet; a moderate amount of moisture is helpful but excess leads
to decay
These aré
STORING RUTA BAGAS AND TURNIPS.
PREPARING THE ROOT CROPS.
COVERING LATE SOWINGS. Cover late sowings of spinach,
turnips and other hardy vegetables intended- for wintering
but wait until a crust is formed on the ground by the frost.
Apply a light covering of leaves or litter which can be kept in
8 ae iP
APP ne. bel 4 : : A
, fis place with corn stalks or pine boughs. Peas, onions, and rad-
ane MN.
5 ie ; an ishes are improved in yield and earliness by this method of
handling
STORING CELERY. Store celery in trenches, lifting the
plants with considerable root and packing them quite closely
together in a trench made about 1 ft. deep. It can be done
between two rows of celery leaving the outside rows undis-
turbed. Mound up the soil to tum the water and place
sufficient covering on top to prevent frost striking through
STORING
without a
STOREHOUSE
The Garden Movies,
No. 10
No reason to lose the results of the year’s
labors even if slou have neither cellar
nor shed. The good old earth
that gave the yield will
keep it
STORING CABBAGE FOR WINTER. Select the best heads
and pull out by the roots. Place upside down in a trench
about 2 ft. deep and wide enough to accommodate. Fill in
the trench and mound up to turn the water. A covering of
leaves or litter after a crust is formed is advised, not for pro-
tection but to facilitate the opening of the trench when de-
siring to get the contents
Photographs and Descriptions by
W. C. McCOLLOM
“Hardy’? root
OUTSIDE STORAGE OF ROOT CROPS.
As cold weather approaches gather all the
absolutely hardy and freezing improves texture and
taste. Place in trenches or simply ina pile and cover
with salt hay or leaves. It is advisable to put some-
thing over the top to turn the water
root crops starting with the beets and carrots and finishing with the parsnip
and turnip which will stand severe freezing. Dig the roots, do not pull. Re-
move top close to the root (except beet, where a little top should be left to
prevent bleeding). It is much easier to twist the top off than to use a knife.
77
crops will keep in trenches in the open ground. Keep
each type in separate baskets or boxes, or in groups in
the bottom of the trench with boards or leaves between,
Cover with leaves or straw before mounding
THE MONTH’S REMINDER, OCTOBER, 1918
The purpose of the Reminder is to call to your attention the things which should be thought about or done during the next few weeks.
details as to how to do the different things suggested, see the current or back issues of THE GarDEN MaGazine.
For full
(An index of contents 1s pre-
pared for each completed volume, and is sent gratis on request. *,* Check off with a pencil, 1n the square () provided for that purpose, the items
that apply to your own case, and use the page as a reference list. * ,
T IS NOT all over yet! October is a late
month in the garden, but by no means an
empty one. In fact, if one takes full ad-
vantage of every thing that can be done,
it is one of the fullest months in the whole
garden year.
In the Vegetable Garden
IRST of all, don’t let late weeds go to
seed. () Go over the garden carefully
and pull out or cut out every weed seen. Some
of the worst things, such as chickweed and
quack-grass, make a strong growth in the cool
fall weather and mature tremendous numbers
of seeds when the casual observer is taking it
for granted that everything has stopped grow-
ing. (J Buy or make a ‘weeding spud.”
This is nothing but a sharp blade on the end of
a straight handle, preferably with a projection
or step at right angles, so that it can be forced
with the foot, through the root of a large weed
when a thrust with the hand is not sufficient.
A tool of this kind will prove invaluable in the
late crops in preventing the sowing of trouble
for next year.
Clean up as you go! When you are through
with a crop, pull it up and feed it to the chickens,
or burn it. The remains of most crops should
not be put in the compost pile for fear of carrying
over disease germs. L] Take up your bean poles
and tomato supports and store them away under
cover. It is wasteful as well as unsightly to
leave them to freeze in the ground.
O) Sow every square foot with the winter
overcoat. It is a little late now for putting
in vetch in the Northern states, but still time for
rye. Even if it no more than sprouts before
freezing weather it will begin growth early in
the spring and make a good crop for spading
under in time for next year’s late plantings.
(J Protect the tender crops from early frost.
Almost invariably the first few killing nights
are followed by quite a long “‘spell”’ of good
growing weather.
(J Save the things that can be saved and
enjoy your garden for several weeks more.
(See last month’s GARDEN MaGazInE, page 43).
Lettuce, string beans, lima beans, egg plant,
melons and other tender things that are often
caught, before they are through cropping, by
the earlier frost may be protected by a light
layer of marsh hay or of dry leaves. Go over
the melon vines just before danger of freezing
and remove all surplus vines, and all fruits
that have no chance of maturing. The re-
maining vines with the larger fruits attached
can be gathered up into a small space about
each hill which may there easily be protected.
Handle as Careful as Eggs
HE “hard shelled”? fruits—pumpkins and
squash—bruise very easily and each bruise is
likely to become a centre of decay after storing.
After the vines have been killed leave fruits
for two or three sunny days with the bottom
side up to dry thoroughly and then store in a
dry place. Vegetables which can be left until
hard freezing are beets, cabbage, carrots, chard,
parsnip, salsify, rutabagas, winter radishes,
and turnips. L) Get potatoes in quite early
as they may be injured by freezing in the soil.
() Harvest the onions. If they have grown
late pull them and lay in rows just as soon as
the tops break open and the roots show a
tendency to part readily from the bulbs. If
left even a few days too long they may be
ruined by a spell of wet weather which will
start into rot and stop growth. Break over or
*
stir up the rows every day until tops are fairly
dry and then store under cover in a thin layer
where they will get all the air possible.
Get Permanent Storage Ready
HAVE you a place for everything you want
to save this winter? If not, get busy
now or some of the things, which you have in
temporary storage under cover, may be frost
bitten before you get them into permanent
quarters. Don’t neglect this!
Save seed where you can. Don’t let go to
waste any crop from which you can get seed.
Products which have got too old or tough for
use or even for storing, may often be utilized
for producing seed. (On page 86 of this issue
further instructions for seed saving may be
found.)
Plant Shrubs This Month!
RIGHT now is the best time of the whole
year to add to the attractiveness and value
of your place by improving the permanent
features. Plant shrubs this month any time
before hard freezing, but the sooner the better.
If you haven’t followed our advice and ordered
already there is still time to do it—if you
hustle. You can’t spend your money in any
other way that will bring as long lasting and
big returns. Well planted grounds are equiva-
lent to money in the bank. Burt
Don’t scatter shrubs indiscriminately over the
whole place. Shrubs stuck around all over the
lawn are worse than none at all. Plan your
shrubbery planting carefully. Remember it is
for a long time. Keep the plants around the
foundations of the house, near the boundary
lines, or in corners or curves along paths where
they can be seen to the best advantage, and
will not break up other views. Group care-
fully, so that the taller ones will be kept to the
back, and the period of bloom extended over
as long a season as possible.
( Get ready for planting before your shrubs
arrive. Mark out with great care where each
thing is to go, and either dig up the whole
border and enrich it with bone and manure;
or if that is not feasible, dig out the individual
holes to a generous size—much larger than
merely large enough to take the ball of roots—
enrich it and have it ready for planting as
soon as the shipment arrives from the express
office.
Take good care of all shipments immediately
on receipt. If, in spite of your good intentions,
your plants arrive from the nursery before you
are ready for them, dig a trench in a well drained
part of the garden, and “heel in’”—simply
undo the packages, and set the plants out as
thick as they will go in the trench, covering
the roots with soil. Then take them out as
wanted for planting, being careful not to expose
the plants to sun or wind for more than a
few minutes during the planting operations.
[) Get the materials for winter mulching
now. Remember that the newly set shrubs
will need mulching later on when the ground
freezes, and get the material for this protection
now. Get dry, well rotted manure if possible:
otherwise marsh hay or leaves will answer the
purpose.
Bulbs and Flower Border
NOTHING will more surely give returns for
good care in preparation of the soil than
spring-blooming bulbs. If your Tulips, Nar-
cissus, and Hyacinths have not yet come in
remember that they are likely to arrive at any
78
time now, and the sooner thereafter you can
get them into the ground the better. () Prepare
the bed in advance. Essential points are:
First, thorough drainage—fll in if not
naturally good.
Second; rich soil—don’t believe that “bulbs
will grow in any soil;” they will exist, but for
the best blooms, enrich thoroughly with bone
meal, very finely rotted manure, or both. Note:
(Avoid fresh manure, as it may rot the bulbs).
Make sure of the drainage, when planting,
by dropping a handful or two of sand in to ~
each hole before putting in the bulb. Probably
more bulbs are lost from rotting than from any
other one thing, and this simple expedient
affords the best protection. This is especially
important in planting the hardy Lilies.
L] Arrange for bulbs that may be received
late—after the surface of the ground is frozen
hard—by preparing the bed and covering it
with straw or manure to keep from freezing, so
that planting can be done easily when the late
bulbs finally come in.
(1 Get ready material for mulching later.
As with shrubs winter protection will be wanted
later for the bulbs, and novw is the time to make
preparations for it.
Plants for the House and the Winter Garden
ON’T let your porch boxes and outside
window boxes remain empty and unsightly
during the winter. Have you ever noticed how
very attractive a few low evergreens, even the
very low and cheap ones, are when used for
filling in these boxes, after the summer flowers
have been removed? (] Why not add this
attractive touch to your house, this fall, to be
enjoyed all this winter and next spring.
The plants which have been summered over
for winter flowering should of course be taken
in before danger of frost. L] But don’t be
in a hurry about it until there actually is danger;
and then give all the air and sunshine possible.
Don’t crowd your plants in the window.
Better to discard some of them altogether than
to have too many. CL) Better still, however,
to provide some of the modern convenient
portable or folding wall brackets or shelves,
and make room for several plants up the side
of each window, instead of crowding them all
on the sill. Hanging baskets can also be used
for such things as Asparagus, Begonias, Ivy
Geraniums, Fuchsias, Oxalis, ete.
In the Flower Gardens
OST of the end of the season work which can
bedonenow wassuggested last month Bur—
© Keep late flowers supported with stakes
and twine for the last fine blooms, as autumn
winds and rains are hard on them.
(1 Where room is scarce, take cuttings of
the things you most want to keep. These
may be started in sand in a warm window in
the house, and later transferred to small pots.
In this way they can be carried over winter
and still take up very little room.
Not yet too late to plant fresh purchases
or to take up and divide late flowering hardy
perennials. Don’t leave overgrown, starved out
clumps to give few and inferior flowers again
next year. L] Take up, divide, and replant
in fresh soil or in the same place enriched with
bone meal manure, humus, etc.
() Get materials for the winter mulch;
gather up every bagful of leaves that falls on
your own place or near by. Don’t burn this
autumn’s leaves. Vhose you don’t need for
mulch, will be valuable decayed, as leaf mold
next year.
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WILLIAM LESLIE FRENCH
EHYDRATION, or the drying of
raw or fresh produce by means
of artificial heating, is merely a
short cut method of producing
under control, a result like that which
is accomplished by the sun and air out
of doors. It is one thing to produce
food, it is another to conserve it. The
national problem to-day is the conserva-
tion of the yield of fruits and vegetables
which has been on a scale hitherto un-
precedented, largely as a result of the
aggressive campaign and teaching of
the National War Garden Commission.
The problem of the hour is conservation.
Methods of canning are now pretty gen-
erally understood. Earth and cellar
storage are nothing new, but drying
the fresh product (driving out surplus water
so that the residuum can be kept almost in-
definitely and after a process of re-dehydration
serve equally as well as the freshly gathered
material) is not so generally understood, or, at
all events, has been little practised. Drying
has particular merits of its own. It reduces
bulk, it reduces weight enormously, and the
problem of a suitable container is practically
non-existent. The dried product can be put
in paper bags, cardboard boxes, old tin cans,
or a multitude of other second-hand receptacles.
As for space economy, a shelf three or four feet
long will carry all the Biceeraples and fruit
. needs for a family
over the winter.
Dehydration has
come to stay. It
can be done in the
home on a small
scale (as was dis-
cussed in last
month’s GarDEN
MaGazinE) or it
can be done on a
more comprehen-
sive scale under
definite conditions
of control where a
group of people is
organized to han-
dle a quantity of
. produce. But spe-
cific details are
better than any
amount of general
statements so let
us look towhathas
actually been done
in ademonstration
way in meeting the
Administration’s
appeal for greater
food economy.
Mrs. Soe D. Pratt at work at the
Dosoris Lane Dehydration Plant
The comparison of fresh vegetables and the dehydrated product showing quantity
requisite to produce two ounces dry
HERE and there dehydration plants have
been established at various convenient
places throughout the country.
serve amply as an _ illustration. Data in
this article are obtained from the Dosoris
Lane Dehydration Plant established by Mrs.
George D. Pratt, Glen Cove, Long Island.
Mr. Pratt, himself is Conservation Commis-
sioner of New York and his wife has been ener-
getic in demonstrating the practical service of
a central dehydration plant. This article con-
tains exact figures based. on careful records
kept during the current season. As a war
activity the Dosoris Lane Plant is conducted
for the direct benefit of the families of our
soldiers and sailors. Dried products are be-
ing distributed through the Red Cross Home
Service.
ie ALL dehydrating processes there are
a few fundamental principles which must
be observed. The vegetable products must be
thoroughly washed or scrubbed, decayed parts
or imperfections removed and sorted to size.
Root produce (such as carrots, beets, potatoes,
and turnips) are preferably, passed through a
rotary slicer, + to } inch thick and spread on the
trays to + inch in thickness. Leaf vegetables
(spinach, swiss chard, and herbs) Should com-
pletely cover the bottom of the trays to get
the best results. Peas and beans can be in 1-
inch layers. Peas when sliced into quarters
are better adapted for making soups and purées
than when dried whole. Sliced potatoes should
be immersed at once in boiling water from 2 to
4 minutes. This method applies to the pro-
duction of potato flour. But, to secure an
exceptionally fine product—white, with a fine
quality and flavor, and for storage purposes—
I dip them in water at 196 degrees, keeping
them there from 10 to 12 minutes. ‘This sets
the starch and other ingredients.
A sufficient amount of water must be removed
to prevent deterioration. The average amount
79
One will
of water remaining should be close to
10%. In other words the dried material
should not approach the state where it
falls to pieces if in the leaf or is rigid
with others. Likewise, the fuel vrallve,
flavor, and aroma must be equal to those
of the raw material.
Air in motion combined with various
degrees of heat accelerates the dehy-
drating process. Quick drying is desira-
ble, because the chemical changes occurr-
ing after a product is peeled or r sliced are
of the character which will break down
the tissue, alter color and flavor, destroy
the food content, and produce almost
instant decay through the action of
bacteria, molds, and yeast.
Too low a temperature, say at 90°, a
tend to sour the produce. Too high, 175°
180°, will carry off the moisture rapidly, bi
the sugars, salts, and flavor dissolve. The cell
structure must be maintained or this will
result.
The proper preparation of the wet produce is
very important; also the raw products must be
fresh and preferably of a high grade or the re-
sults in dried quality will be poor. Obviously,
high-grade fresh-gathered carrots will turn out
better when dehydrated than old and stringy
carrots. Only the best quality obtainable was
used in the work under notice and all waste
from cutting was dried for chicken food. This
is cooked in water for about zo minutes, and.
then fed tothe hens
which lay as rapid-
ly and freely as if
they ha'ld been
nourished on the
regular fresh feed.
T IS preferable
to use a full load
of one product to
facilitate drying in
a uniform time, or
produce of like
character or sim-
ilar dehydrating
period can be run
in together. This
is a convenience
when there is not
enough of one
kind to fill the
machine. The
leaf varieties can
be dried at the
same time. Car-
rots, beets, and
turnips are ex-
cellent drying
companions.
Type of dryer for community instal-
lation. Mrs. B. H. Harriman
80 THE GARDEN
MAGAZINE
OctosBeER, 1918
FTER the machine
is full the material
should be stirred once
or twice to effect even
drying. The frequent
opening of the door will
reduce the temperature
and interfere with the
quality and flavor.
Whenever leaf products
are being dehydrated,
the blower should be
turned off, else the pro-
duct is apt to be blown
from the trays. An
operator will find. at
times that, even after
a tray has been in
the allotted period,
parts of the material
will not have dried
evenly. Take the pro-
duce not quite dried
and mix it with other
of the same character
and dry again. This
is called reconstituting.
When the vegetables
are dry they are ap-
parently brittle and
they must be “‘cured”’
or “conditioned.”
Some of the material
will have too much
moisture, some too
little; and in order to
secure uniformity
throughout, the pro-
duct is placed in con-
tainers, either paste-
board ortin,and poured
from one container into
another occasionally
during several days (3 or 4 usually) until
the material is uniformly dry throughout. If
this “conditioning” process is not employed,
the spores of bacteria and fungi will begin their
growth on the damper portions, which would
spread disease or rot over the whole mass
and utter loss would ensue.
For storing the products paper bags parafined
on the outside should be used. But we also
use square cartons paraffined inside and out
which afford the best protection from dust,
moisture, and insects. When ordinary paper
bags only are available, the neck is twisted
around and turned over, and tied with cord.
The “blanching” process or dipping in hot
water, is unnecessary for fruits, although gen-
erally to be used for vegetables. I do not
advocate the sulphuring process for bleaching,
despite what others may say. It alters the
quality even though it makes the product more
attractive. To destroy all microérganisms,
fruit unskinned may be dipped in a weak
solution of lye—%} pound of concentrated
lye to about 9 gallons of water. This perforates
the skin and helps to dry the fruit more quickly.
The product must be rinsed several times in
running water before being dried. If after
cutting an end no moisture appears the fruit
is properly dried. It should be pliable but not
snap. Berries after dehydration will be soft
but not stick to the hand, when pressed. Cheese
cloth is necessary for tomatoes and fruits so
that they will not stick to the trays. It must
be used where metal trays are employed so as
to prevent the action of acid. A light oil such
as nujol is better than parafin to prevent
materials adhering to the trays.
“THE accompanying tables hold’in convenient
form an amount of data that will furnish
information for prospective workers, such as the
number of hours necessary for soaking any given
is devoted entirely to the work.
Conditioning or evening up of the dried product may be done in the open air. At the Dosoris Lane Dehydration Plant a building
It was completely screened and every moder improvement installed
product so that it is ready to be cooked. The
principle holds good in general that vegetables
can be soaked from 7 to 8 hours—or over
night—but our experience is that the produce
mentioned requires the actual number of hours
given. If the material by chance should have
Time TaBLe FoR BLANCHING AND DEHYDRATION OF VEGETABLES
AND FRulits.
Note: The dehydrating time and degrees of temperature of the
vegetables and fruits are to be closely observed.
20 a
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AND Barty APRIL
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(Real Cedi Wy White Pine
7 Megnolia Stellata
Tulips Inglescombe Pink, Suzon, the creamy
vitellina, and Yellow Perfection are gorgeous
with the cool mauves of Darwin Tulips Ewbank,
Melicette, La Tristesse and with the bronzy
tones enjoyed in Sultan and Louis XIV.
The beauty of these is enhanced by skillfully
disposed masses of blue Phlox Laphami. If
placed’ near a red mauve the beauty of all is
spoiled.
Away from these I planted Clara Butt, Nau-
ticus and Mrs. Potter Palmer Tulips carpeting
the ground with Forget-me-not. If the fawn-
colored Tulips like Mr. Groenwegen, Garibaldi,
and Panorama are chosen, plants of Viola Apri-
cot, Pansies, and Primroses will help the effect
very much. Viola Apricot is a gem, there is no
salmon-pink quite like it!
THE next period introduces
Breeder Tulips and Iris. The
mahogany-colored John Ruskin
and the wine-red Cardinal Man-
ning look well with rich purple
German Iris. To offset these
C
( Red Cedar
Ww
deeper tones Tulip Dream, a
mauve, and Apricot supply the
necessary diversion of
—— Jaune
Te Ee aay
3
color.
d’(Euf and Prince of
Orange may be used here, as a
dash of orange with this group
is irresistible.
"T HERE are always a few places
in the garden which should be
saved for accents, novelties, gems
of the collection or whatever you
wish to name them. Eremurus
blooms in June and is a rare orna-
ment forthe border. The flower-
ing stalks shading from pink to
\ Insert here b mares st Insert h igh;
a EDatwinPink CLIngkescombe Pink” [Louis XIV" [Darwin Pink Fawn Cotor Tulips yellow are seven feet high; planted
\Myosotis jl Darwin Mauve tla, Mies: sh aepemh aig with Iris pallida the effect is
‘ o
Breed s Bee “
reeder Tulip Garibaldi Secure
lohn Ruskin D S
Dahliai-==-=- “A --
/Delphiniu
73 2%
These diagrams represent the flowering effects for the same border and if superimposed the complete
planting plan will be produced
neus Queen of Spain), and Grape Hyacinth
(Muscari botryoides) are sprinkled among rich
purple Iris pumila and Phlox subulata lilacea.
HE late May flowering effects follow. The
softness of color of the late Tulips fastens
a spell upon the lover of garden beauty. There
are certain of these which should be in every
garden; the British Tulipa sylvestris with its
gracefully drooping head, Tulipa Didieri alba
sweet-scented white, and Tulip retroflexa a
yellow with recurved lily-like petals. Mingled
with pale blue Indian Quamash (Camassia
esculenta) and Star of Bethlehem (Ornithegalum
arabicum) white with blackish pistil, the group is
charming! Although not quite so apparent, the
lily form is seen in Lulipa elegans and in a slighter
degree in Tulip Picotee and Tulipa Clusiana.
The latter has unusual charm.
88
beso,
Mee er |. Fanorama
For HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS
WY l
Landscape Architect Isabella Pendleton
stunning!
The Butterfly Tulip of California
(Calochortus venustus) is well
named, for the brilliantly colored
petals with eye-like spots and
other markings are suggestive of
butterfly wings. Calochortus will
require winter protection. Ane-
mones coronaria and “St. Brigid”
may be planted in a coldframe
and set out in the garden in
early spring. These come in the
‘richest tints of blue, red and
~-cDeiphiniam 77 purple and therefore care must
deve] be taken to place them har-
=| moniously.
Fritillaria meleagris (Guinea-
hen-flower) is attractive planted
with Muscari (grape hyacinth).
The spotted brown and purple
flowers of the Fritillaria supply
an interesting neutralnote to the flowering groups.
This takes us pretty well through the spring
season of flowering bulbs. That does not mean,
however, that the border is colorless for the re-
maining summer months. On the contrary
perennials (which may well be planted in the
fall and mulched) bloom and cover the spaces
occupied by the bulbs. The June picture
continues with Columbine, Foxglove, Peach-
leaved Bell-flower, Sweet William, and Del-
phinium.
In the hot weeks of summer white Gypsophila
paniculata, Phlox Miss Lingard, Shasta Daisies
and Salvia farinacea satisfy the eye. Then in
fall, Dahlias—Geisha, Countess of Londsale,
ack; and hardy Asters—nova-angliae, amellus—
loom until frost. Thus the garden is a de-
light from the earliest peep of spring until quite
late fall.
Don’t Hurry Winter Protection of Roses s.c. xuszarp
After Practical Experience in Roses, in Three Different States, Mr. Hubbard Presents a Working Plan for Ceneral Adoption—The
Mistaken Idea that Plants Need Warmth in Winter the Cause of Untold Losses
HE fact that many of the most deli-
eately tinted Hybrid Tea Roses will
not survive the winters of the latitude
of northwestern New York has dis-
couraged some gardeners from planting them.
Yet everybody wants these flowers and not
planting them means they are losing the pleasure
of many of the most beautiful not alone of Roses,
but of all the flowers of the garden.
It is most discouraging to find, when spring
comes, only a few stubs of what, in the fall, was
a collection of fine, healthy Rose
plants. Little wonder, then, that
despair leads to the larger planting
of the Hybrid Perpetuals and
_ Rugosas as being something of a
more hardy nature.
But the fact remains that al-
though many of the Hybrid Teas
will freeze to within a few inches of
the ground, most of them (with
roper protection) can be made to
Feo profusely from year to year.
Many people have the erroneous
impression that the protection is
to keep the plants warm. This is
indeed far from correct. The main
object in covering the plants is to
keep them cold—that is, to prevent
thawing and freezing as much as
possible during the “‘soft spells” in
winter. The warm windy days of
_ March are especially dangerous to
the proper wintering of Roses. If
we could freeze our plants in De-
cember, and have them remain that way until
the latter part of March or first of April, there
_ would be no need of covering of any sort! The
finest bed of Roses that I have ever seen was
a planting of twenty-five Killarney Queen and
Double White Killarney on the north shore of
Lake Winnepesaukee in New Hampshire. The
house sheltered them from the cold north winds
and Nature did the rest by burying them in about
three or four feet of snow from the second week in
November until the middle or last of April. These
Roses came through every winter with more than
two feet of good, healthy wood.
Ramblers are best laid down and covered with soil
Conditions That Aid Hardiness
For the reason already stated it is obvious
that our covering must be done as late as
possible. Early protection is often the cause of
the plants becoming too warm and starting, which,
when severe weather does come, means a consider-
able loss of vitality to the stock. Best results are
obtained by covering just before the grownd freezes
solidly. Two or three good freezes do more to
insure the carrying of the plants through the
winter than any amount of early protection.
Hybrid Teas properly mounded with earth and ready to receive the final covering of manure after
the mound is frozen. This protects Teas in the extreme north
The first factor in properly wintering Roses is
having the wood thoroughly ripened. Canes
that are full of sap, when cold weather strikes
them, will not survive even a mild winter. The
' freezing of the sap causes expansion which bursts
the outer bark and leaves the wood exposed to
the weather.
There are several ways in which one may
hasten, or at least aid, the ripening processs.
The most important is drainage. If the soil is
heavy and water-logged, then the roots are full
of sap and continue sending it up the canes. It
is a law of physics that ‘two things cannot occupy
the same place at the same time.” As applied
here, it means that as long as the roots are full
of sap, they cannot take back that which is in the
canes. Therefore, look to your drainage!
The next aid is in keeping the food away from
the plants so that no more growth will be made
after the middle of September. If the last mulch
is applied in the middle of July, there will be
little danger of soft growth continuing into au-
tumn. Cultivation should be discontinued after
the last of August. Working the soil later than
that tends to stimulate growth which is not
wanted at this time of year. If weeds grow, pull
them out of course, but do not use a hoe.
There is still another method which has proved
beneficial in ripening the wood of Ramblers:
After the first light frosts, cut back about a foot
of growth from each cane. This checks the
growth and causes the wood to harden. By the
time it has hardened and the eyes have developed,
most of the sap has been utilized and there is
little danger of unripened canes.
Practical Methods of Protection
HERE are several commonly practiced
methods of protection which are of little
use in Northern latitudes, especially in winters
like the last when the mercury registered thirty-
six degrees below zero, and the average velocity
of the wind for the last two weeks in December
was forty miles per hour.
One of the popular methods is to completely
89
cover the plants with straw. The canes are
drawn together in two or three places, according
to the height of the plant, and then some soil
thrown around the base. The plant is now
ready for its coat of straw. Long rye straw is the
best, although it is hard to procure, as most of
the grain to-day is threshed by machines which
break the straw into short lengths. If long straw
is used, it is simply stood upright against the
plant to a thickness of three inches, and tied
securely together, especially at the top and
ottom and more soil is thrown
against the base to a height of five
or six inches. This will keep the
field mice from making a nest in
the straw and from feasting on the
bark of the plants. This method is
quite satisfactory when employed
on Moss Roses. Where winds do
not have a full sweep it may be used
on some of the taller growing Hy-
brid Perpetuals.
In using short straw, the plant
is practically buried with it and a
vegetable hamper or box inverted
over the whole. Burlap is some-
times used in place of boxes. This
method, however, has proved un-
satisfactory for three reasons; viz.,
it makes ideal winter quarters for
mice, allows water to collect around
the plants, and does not keep out
the winds.
Another method of covering is to
surround the bed with chicken wire
about a foot high and then bury the plants with
leaves or litter to a depth of eight or ten inches.
A few sticks or branches over the top will keep
the covering from blowing off. This is a very
good practice where the winters are moderate,
but where the mercury drops forty degrees or
more in twenty-four hours, especially after a warm
spell during the winter, it is of little use.
The One Satisfactory Method
HERE is but one method, which after five
years of experimental work has been found
to be very satisfactory, especially with the Hybrid
Moss Roses can be protected by straw overcoats
90
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
OctToBER, 1918
Teas. (Perhaps it may
be well to state here
that the American Rose
Society’s Test Garden
at Cornell University is
planted at the highest
point above sea level
of any of their test
gardens. Its elevation
is twelve hundred and
fifty feet. This alti-
tude, combined with a
rather short growing
season, offers several
difficulties). The sev-
eral canes are tied to-
gether about the first of
November. Then after
the ground has frozen
several times, softened
up, and is dry on the
surface, the plants are
mounded to a height of
eight or ten inches.
See that the centre of
the plant is filled with
soil so that no pockets
to hold water will be
formed. Care being
taken, however, not to
dig too deeply, for by
so doing, the roots will
be left exposed and
then the plants will
surely die. For this
method, the plants
should be set at least
eighteen inches apart—
and twenty-four inches
is really better if space _
is available. After the mounds have become
thoroughly frozen the entire bed is covered with
old stable manure to a depth of five or six inches.
This acts as a covering for the roots in place of
the soil which was partially removed in mound-
ing. The manure also absorbs much of the water
which might collect in the depressions between
the mounds.
Defeating the Field Mice
AFIER the manure is put on, it is a good
plan, if troubled with field mice, to place
several small handfuls of poisoned grain on each
bed. Wheat, soaked twelve hours in a solution
made by dissolving one ounce of strychnine or
cyanide of sodium in one gallon of water, has
proved very effective. In fact, when the beds
were uncovered last spring, the mice were found
in twos and threes at almost every handful of
grain through the entire garden. Only three
canes were found to be damaged out of thirty-
two hundred plants.
Problem of the Ramblers
| HE protection of Ramblers is
largely a matter of location in
the vicinity of New York City, but
farther north, they should be pro-
tected in order to make a good
showing. Ramblers ought to be
oruned immediately after blooming.
lhe best method is to remove all the
old flowering wood, leaving only
nine or ten strong new canes to a
plant. See that other shoots, which
spring from the base, are kept re-
moved. The canes that are left
will make rapid growth, often at-
taining a length of twenty to
twenty-five feet. They are also
ry pliable, which in our method
protection is desired.
In November, when the canes
are thoroughly ripened, they should
be cut loose from their supports,
€
of
After the ground is frozen cover the mounded earth with litter, straw, or manure so as to keep in the cold
and tied together forming long bundles. These
bundles are buried just before winter sets in.
Usually cover the Ramblers after the bush
Roses are protected. The same rule applies
here as to other types of Roses, viz.: Wait until the
ground has been frozen several times and then bury
with dry soil next to the canes. he term “bury”
as used here, does not mean that a trench should
be dug. On the contrary, avoid any depression
in which water may stand. Water around the
canes means dead wood next spring.
Lay the Ramblers straight out upon the ground
and pin them down with wires shaped like giant
hairpins. Now remove the soil from both sides
of the bundles and use it for covering. ‘This
leaves the canes on a ridge of ground so that the
water may drain off on either side. After the
soil has frozen, an additional covering of two or
three inches of manure is put on, especially around
the base. The manure keeps the soil in a frozen
condition. This method has proved one hundred
per cent. efficient.
This is how the more tender plants should look after the final covering of manure is given
Spring Re-awakening
IX THE spring the
removal of the pro-
tection is to be accom-
plished in three different
movements.
1. About the middle
or latter part of
March, shake out
and remove all
straw from the
manure.
2. In a week or ten
days, reduce the
mounds to one-
half their height.
3. After another
week, remove the
rest of the. soil
“from around the
plants and mix
with the manure.
This gives a good
rich top-soilof four
inches or so, and
eliminates the ne-
’ cessity of an early
mulch.
Do not be in too
great a hurry to un-
cover, especially if the
weather should happen
to be a little warm.
The plants start
quickly once the pro-
tection is removed and
a sudden cold spell has
disastrous results. Bet-
ter be a little late in uncovering, for then the plants
will continue to make a rapid growth throughout
the entire season.
Following is a partial list of Hybrid-Tea Roses,
which had six inches or more of good healthy
wood when uncovered in the spring. It is
offered as proof of the effectiveness of this sort
of protection:
Pinx. Lady Ursula, La Tosca, Mrs. Ashtown, Konigen Carola,
Frau Karl Smid, Willowmere, Gainsboro, Mrs. George Gordon.
Dora Hansen, Farbenkonigen, Mrs. Theo. Roosevelt, Betty, Duchess
of Normandy, Duchess of Sutherland, Mary Countess of Ilchester.
Rep. Lieut. Chaure, Robin Hood, Red Letter Day, Red Cross,
Cardinal, M. P. Azevedo, Col. LeClerc, Brilliant, Wm. Cooper.
Yetitow. Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Claire Goodacre, Margaret Dickson
Hamill, Ulster Gem, G. Amedie Hammond, Marquise de Sinety,
Imogene. q
Orance anp Apricot. Mme. Hector Leulliot, Old Gold, Prince
Charming, Primrose, Queen Mary.
American Pillar Rose
Ts splendid single climber is winning in-
ternational favor. It is spoken of in the
foreign press as one of the best of all climbing
Roses and leads the correspondent in a recent
number of the (English) Gardeners’
Chronicle to speak of it as an in-
teresting straight hybrid between
two species. It may be well to
note what Dr. W. VanFleet, now
with the United States Department
of Agriculture and who originated
dens at Little Silver, N. J., says in
a recent letter to me, as to its origin:
“The American Pillar Rose was
raised by me in 1898 from seed of
a Wichuraiana-setigera cross polli-
nated with a bright red Remontant
Rose seedling, that had a touch of
Polyantha or rather Rosa mul-
tiflora in its make-up. It thus
contains the blood of four Rose
species, but I regard it as essen-
tially a Wichuraiana-setigera hy-
brid. This variety appears to
succeed under very diverse con-
ditions.” —L. B.
this Rose, in his experimental gar- _
OcroserR, 1918 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 9
—e—————— ac
LO MMMM MMMM MMMM mM TMM MMe MTT
Let the Kodak Record \
Your Garden Triumphs
f=
.
TT
© When it
comes fo
Greenhouses
come to
Hitchings &Co.
Send for Catalogue
NEW YORK BOSTON
1170 Broadway 49 Federal St.
AVIA UD eee 22 SSS TUG
ST ya ATIC TTT
Eastman Kodak Co.,
Rochester, N. Y.
The Kodak City
Ma
AMERICAN-GROWN
EVERGREENS
For October Planting
Our ability to supply plants of
the highest quality is not cur-
tailed by the stoppage of foreign
shipments. Buy nursery stock
grown at Andorra.
Andorra
Nurseries
Wm. Warner Harper, Prop.
Suggestions for Effective Box 100 ‘
Planting on request. Chestnut Hill
Phila., Penna.
with Hicks trees, shrubs and hardy flow-
ers. October is the time to plant. Our
15-year-old trees fruit quickly and
give plenty of shade, Cut off objec-
tionable views with evergreens.
Send us photo ofyourhome. We'll
help you plan. Satisfactory growth
guaranteed. Send for catalogue.
. HICKS NURSERIES
Westbury. _—_ Long Island
Box M Phone 68
* all
UIUC TULL TTA
fia LAMA Ae
Here’s the Sash
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
92 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
OctoBER, 1918
Dr. Walter Van Fleet
Robert White Medallist, 1918
HE name of Dr. W. Van Fleet is familiar
to all American horticulturists, and it is
fitting indeed that the Robert White
Medal of Honor should be given him in
recognition of the splendid service he has rendered.
The Massachusetts Horticultural Society as trus-
tee of the Robert White fund has selected Dr.
Van Fleet as the recipient for the honor this year.
This gentleman’s work in plant hybridiza-
tion most decidedly places him in the forefront,
not only of American hybridizers, but of all
hybridizers of the present day.
Trained as a physician and surgeon, Dr. Van
Fleet was drawn irresistibly into experimental
horticulture, having found his first stimulus when
reading about plant hybridization while still a boy.
As soon as opportunity occurred he experi-
mented largely with Gladiolus and was closely
associated with the famous European hybridizer
of Gladiolus, Max Leichtlin. Out of many
thousands of crosses, hundreds of thousands in-
deed, Dr. Van Fleet selected only five as being
worthy of introduction in commerce because he
set a rigid standard on himself. That a variety
should be merely “different” from others already
known was not in his eyes sufficient justification
for introduction. It had to possess some dis-
tinctive qualification. Many of the modern
strains now generally in cultivation are the by-
product of Dr. Van Fleet’s work.
In 1892 the practice of medicine was aban-
doned and the business of experimental horti-
culture taken up, and for several years subse-
quently Dr. Van Fleet was the horticultural
editor of the Rural New Yorker until in 1909
he was appointed Physiologist in the Department
of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., a position
which he still occupies and where he has free rein
to indulge in his hobby of plant breeding.
His contributions to our gardens cover a wide
range of plants. Probably the two or three most
conspicuously successful are the Roses American
Pillar, Silver Moon, and W. Van Fleet. Some
of his other Rose introductions however, will,
undoubtedly, occupy as prominent a place when
they become better known.
The man who has given us these things in ad-
dition to such popular favorites as Flamingo
Canna, several strawberries, and various vege-
tables which remain as standards of quality at
the present day, merits the homage of all garden
lovers of America.
A list of Dr. Van Fleet’s most successful in-
troductions is given below:
NAME | INTRODUCER DATE
Ene Flamingo . . | Dingee & Conard. 1894
Gladiolus Lord Fairfax Peter Henderson & Co. | 1895
4 “ sees ea Vaughan’s Seed Store 1906
saac Hutchinson. ce 190
Mastodon . | e oe oe Cie
Sugar Corn Sheffield lABurpeen te su ene 1898
Tomato Combination id fe 1896
Rs Quarter Century = A A 1897
Pepper Upright Salad | J. M. Thorburn & Co. | 1907
Lonicera Hendersoni Peter Henderson & Co. | 1896
Rose, Climbing, Alba Rubrifolia | Conard & Jones Co. | 1898
s S American Pillar. | ree onl 1902
32 Alida Lovett | J.T. Lovett . . | 1916
g Bessie Lovett . EO ee a TOL
~ Mary Lovett . | “ “ e ae = 1915
i Garnet Climber. | Peter Henderson & Co. | 1997
< May Queen Conard & Jones Co. | 1898
& Pearl Queen iy rey ESO ni Sop
ff Ruby Queen . ty a ~s * 1899
FA Silver Moon . | Peter Henderson & Co. | 1910
ig We Vani Fleets 5 "|, 2" i ee LOLO
Rose se, HB Rasy Chas. Wagner . . | Conard & Jones Co. 1904
os .,Magnafrano. | ee ‘hile Fe ar LOS
Rose, Ev as looming Clara Bz arton | ze yay o 1398
Rose, Bush, Rugosa Magnifica . | iw 7 Age's ¥ 1899
3 Sir Thos. Lipton ee eee 1900
ew CemtGy iets vei rr a) 6.5 s,005 2 IOI
Gooseberry W. Van Fleet . . | J. T. Lovett Ss helen rd
Strawberry Early Jersey Giant . as oa ea I9i4
ea Late Jersey Giant . pd cS pa 19t4
John F. Cook i (ats Ws J es 1916
Edmund Wilson . ee “ 1917
In addition Azalea, Hypericum, and Nicotiana
varieties produced at Little Silver by hybridiza-
i
tion have been introduced by various firms,
meeting with limited or transient success.
Dr. Van Fleet is an extremely modest, retir-
ing man and comparatively few people even
among the horticulturists themselves realized
that his gardens, while he was living at Little
Silver, New Jersey, were the fountain spring of so
much that was of merit. He appears in public
gatherings very rarely, finding his fullest measure
of pleasure i in the work that he has in hand and in
the realization that there are people benefiting
from the results of his labors.
The present work of the doctor consists of breed-.
ing disease-resistant Chestnuts on a fairly large
scale, using all native European and Asiatic
species; the building up of types of hardy garden
Roses for American homes, using all the rare and
new species; disease-resistant types of orchard
fruits, including the apple, pear, peach, plum,
and quince; small fruits, such as the strawberry,
gooseberry, raspberry, blackberry, mulberry,
Amelanchier or juneberry, and barberry; various
ornamental shrubs and bulbous plants, including
Walter Van Fleet, M. D
the Calla or Richardia, Lilium, Ixia, Sparaxis,
Freesia, and winter-blooming Gladiolus. Present
work among vegetables is confined to peppers
of the pimento type.
All the new species and varieties introduced to
this country by the Arnold Arboretum and the
Federal Office of Foreign Seed and Plant In-
troduction are utilized in recent work and we
may confidently assert that a number of merito-
rious new varieties will in due course be dissemi-
nated for trial by the U. S. Department of
Agriculture.—ZL. B.
Planting for Southern Gardens
OW seed of the Early Jersey Wakefield
cabbage up to the middle of October in
he coldframes to transplant to open ground
in November. After the ground is
frozen the plants can be protected—in the event
of very cold weather, by placing coarse, strawy
manure on either side of the rows.
Sow in the open ground for salad greens seed
of the White Norfolk turnip and Curly Siberian
kale, also have the second sowing of Spinach
(Savoy type). It would be desirable to have
some spinach sowed in a coldframe, as in case of a
threatened snow storm the glass sash could be
put on for protection and one could gather spin-
ach even in inclement weather.
In all unused plots in the garden sow crimson
clover, rye, or barley to be turned under for green
manure in the spring. Some plots would be bene-
fited by deep plowing and a thick coating of
agricultural lime and allowed to remain in a
rough state all winter, as the constant freezing
and thawing would mellow the soil. It would be
better to test the soil to see if lime is needed. If
the soil is sour, litmus paper will turn pink if put
in a handful of the soil thoroughly moistened
and allowed to remain about an hour. In eat
event lime is needed.
Celery should be banked up with dirt as it con- ~
tinues to grow and it should be kept constantly
nourished with manure water or nitrate of soda’
from the time the plants are set in the ground in
July until ready for the table in November.
Celery needs a great deal of feeding and much
water. Later on in the winter, the celery bed
should be covered with pine tags. (See Novem-
ber number of GarDEN Roe 1915.)
Put out sets of the White Pearl and Queen
onion for use in the early spring. ‘They are small
onions but delicate in flavor and quite tender.
Strawberry plants can be set out quite late,
but it is best for them to: get established before
freezing weather. Rooted runners can be taken
from an old strawberry bed and planted out for a
new bed. New beds should be made every two
years and the old beds plowed under.
Cut off asparagus bushes now and burn them
to prevent spread of disease and to destroy in-
sects. Harrow the beds level. Spread with
well-rotted cow manure, or chicken manure
mixed with acid phosphates to be plowed under
in March when the rows are again hilled up.
Late winter apples should be harvested the
latter part of September and early October and
stored for winter. All apples that have dropped
and are bruised or broken should be made into
apple butter or cider. Directions for making
same can be procured from the U. S. Agricul-
tural Department at Washington; and the
August and September numbers of 1917 GARDEN
MacazineE have valuable directions on the
methods for the preservation of fruits and vege-
tables.
Orchard, vineyard and bush fruits need much
attention in the fall. All dead and diseased
‘limbs should be removed and cocoons of cater-
pillars and other insects destroyed; and borers
dug out from the base of peach and plum trees.
The ground should be plowed, spread with
manure, and sowed with Crimson Clover, rye, or
vetch to be plowed under in the spring as a green
manure, or else sowed in orchard grass for a per-
manent sod.
Lawns can be kept in excellent condition by a
flock of sheep, but the shrubs must be protected
by temporary fencing of wire netting. This is
being done by many as a war measure because
of shortage of labor and also to produce mutton.
After the vines are destroyed by a heavy frost
the sweet potatoes are dug. Directions for
storing are in November, 1917, GarpEN Mac-
AZINE.
Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and salsify can re-
main in the ground all winter, but one can get
at them more readily if they are put in a kiln.
Directions for making a kiln are given in Novem-
ber, 1915, GARDEN MaGazine.
Plant all spring-flowering bulbs now, such as
Narcissus, Tulips, Hyacinths, and Crocus. Di-
vide and transplant perennials such as Phlox,
Sweet William, Hollyhock and Digitalis. Cut
off part of the long hair-roots of the Phlox and
plant in wet sand in coldframe to propagate
more plants. Anchusa italica and Oriental
Poppy roots can be cut into inch pieces and
planted in coldframes to make more plants.
Prune only late flowering shrubs at this
season. Avoid pruning Lilacs and Forsythias
and Spireas as the flowering buds are on the
new wood.
Virginia. J. M. Parrerson.
a
OctospeR, 1918
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Heatherhome Bulbs are of the same exceptional
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mowers with three horses and three men.
Send for catalogue illustrating all types of
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THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
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S/
OARDS of Educa-
tion, school garden
organizers, and all
who are interested
in putting through the
best possible war gardens,
should note carefully the
personnel of the war garden committee of the
Illinois State Council of Defense. It has proved
itself so very effective. Judging from results, it
would be well if in all our cities the garden com-
mittee were made up on the same lines.
These are the members of the Chicago Commit-
tee: Robert B. Beach, Chicago Association of
Commerce; Joseph Budlong, Truck Gardener;
John C. Cannon, Lincoln pa Commissioners;
Walter E. Dorland, Boy Scouts of America;
J. F. Foster, South Park Commissioners; August
Geweke, Truck Gardener; J. A. Hillier, Y. M. C.
A.; P. G. Holden, Director Agricultural Exten-
sion Dept. International Harvester Co. N. J.;
Brother Justus, Arch-Diocese, Chicago; A. R.
Mariott, Chicago Title & Trust Co.; B. J. Mul-
laney, Publicity; Mrs. Augustus Peabody, Wo-
men’s Food Production Committee; J. H. Prost,
Director of Gardens; Mrs. Louise O. Rowe, Dept.
of Public Welfare, City of Chicago; A.C. Schrader,
West Side Park Commissioners; John D. Shoop,
Chicago Public Schools; Thomas Skompa,
Northwest Park Commissioners, Leonard
Vaughan, Seedsman; Harry A. Wheeler, U. S.
Food Administrator for Illinois.
Observe the business men and the truck gar-
deners and seedsman, the clergy and the Boy
Scouts and the Y. M. C. A., the publicity man,
the International Harvester, and the Public Wel-
fare, the Park Commissioners—and only one
from the schools! Here was an admirable work-
ing organization that could tackle every phase of
garden production.
Very EARLY in the spring, a definite programme
was formulated and this programme was adhered
to closely. Here it is; together with the way it
was worked out:
I. To distribute gardening information by daily news bulletins;
(Official bulletins published in four of the daily papers, 225 news-
paper stories on gardening—total press clippings, 350). By
primers (100,000 Garden Primers distributed free, 50,000 primers
sold at $5.00 per M.) By practical instructions (4,000 “Grow a
Vegetable Garden”’ by the International Harvester Co. distrib-
uted, 3,000 Natl. War Garden Commission primers, 3,000 IIli-
nois University Garden Bulletins; 5,000 Trade Catalogues on
seeds, fertilizers, spraying materials, etc.)
By lectures (A short course of gardening was given by the gar-
den committee, about eighty of the total attendance volunteered
their services to do talking before clubs and factory groups—
Number of lectures 682).
By posters and signs (10.000 War Garden posters donated and
distributed free, 17,000 Garden Signs distributed free).
By demonstration gardens (These were established to the num-
ber of seventeen in the large parks, by the Park Commissioners.
They were vegetable gardens which afforded practical demon-
strations of how and what to do in the garden and when to do it.
These demonstrations were conducted by the Head Gardeners
of the parks, and by lecturers sent out by the Garden Committee).
Il. To record donations of cultivatable property and assign same to
applicants requesting gardens. (2,200 acres of vacant and idle
land was donated for War Garden purposes, most of which was
turned over to the local gardening associations. Nine hundred
people requested land and were assigned lots through this Garden
Committee, 2,000 people were referred to the garden organiza-
tions covering the territory in which they lived).
Ill. To carry on gardening campaigns through organizations, and
to further organize clubs in territories where none existed.
This was one of the most valuable points of the Chicago Com-
mittee’s programme. The Committee corresponded with and
furnished garden information to about 300 improvement asso-
ciations, 60 of these became definitely affiliated with the War
Garden Committee, carried on a definite campaign and covered a
prescribed area of the city. The largest and oldest of the affli-
ating organizations are Hg in the table in the next column.
There was a total of 8,422 registered Association gardeners
and 744 acres cultivated. The other associations have smaller
community gardens on vacant lots. By the codperation of these
associations the seeker after garden information could have
help from the nearest source of wisdom.
IV. To furnish plowing, harrowing, fertilizer, tools, seeds, seedling
plants, onion sets, etc., to organizations and to citizens at cost, free
of charge where possible.
The different Park Commissioners and the Chicago Florists’
Club Etew and distributed plants through the War Garden Com-
mittee to the number of 1,500,000.
V. Tohave a map of Chicago, showing on the same territories covered
by these garden organizations and the schools having school gar-
dens
This was done, each organization assuming charge of its sec-
tion, and afforded a fine example of how to avoid overlapping and
duplicating of work.
VI. To encourage and 5 supervise children’s school gardens and home
gardens, public schools, parochial schools, and private institutions.
this work was mae r the direction of ae “Women’s Direct-
ing Committee for Children’s War Gardens.”?” The Committee
as iin Mrs. Augustus Peabody, Mrs. Joseph T. Bowen,
. Cyrus H McCormick, Mrs. Wm. S. Hefferan, Mrs. Tif-
fany y Bluke Mrs. Robert P. Bates, Mrs. Robt. H. McCormick,
UNCLE SAM’S GARDENING
A News Feature of National Current Activities
Cuter CooPrERATING ORGANIZATIONS
ORGANIZATIONS SERVING a ete,
City Gardens Association. ..... 709 60
pioeevards Community Clearing
Houses cis 1,300 50
Stock eee C.C. H. (Boy
SCOUES) |: case setoucieteeretiarls 150 fe)
So. Chicago Y.M.C.A........ 1,500 120
Rogers Park Defense League. . . 1,300 110
Noiweod Park Community Gns.
5) Rea cus occa 500 100
wos Pullman Y. M. C. A. Gar-
dening |Glibs eee ee Eere eee 300 I10
Boy Scouts of Chicago........ 1,052 19
City Welfare Department..... 300 20
Avalon Park Civic Association. . 200 I5
Austin Gardening Association. 100 10
Salvation Army Gardening Asso-
Glationnde eee neces, oise 60 10
Pullman Co. Gardening Club. . 500 80
Chicago Lawn Gardening Asso-
(thule Wario ae Ree Gosee 160 20
Northwest Park District...... 300 40
Mrs. Edward Gudeman, Mrs. Samuel T. Chase, Mrs. George A.
Ranney, Mrs. Walter S. "Brewster.
Numbers of amateur gardeners were enlisted in the work of
supervising the children’s gardens, the women pledging to give
certain days or hours of the week and were assigned garden
responsibilities accordingly. If any lacked wisdom she could
ask of the Director, J. H. Prost. The schools reporting school
and home gardens were indicated on the map, and the women
ward garden leaders selected volunteers to help in directing and
in keeping the merit record which to child gardeners is all-
important. There were 90,000 child-gardeners, and placing
on each crop the extremely modest valuation (for full returns are
not yet in) the crop value will total $55,620.
VII. To provide medals to the best children gardeners.
Forty thousand United States School Garden Army insignia
bars have been distributed. A bronze medal will be furnished
by the Chicago Tribune to every juvenile gardener passing a mark
of 90, on the record book. The best boy and girl gardeners in
each school district, parochial school, or juvenile institution, will
be given a silver medal, also furnished by the Chicago Tribune.
VIII. To direct a citywide prize garden contest. The Women’s
War Garden Committee will award the War Garden prizes which
have been offered by the various corporations to the best garden-
ers entering these contests.
he number of families having home yard gardens approximates
140,000. In the immediate suburbs of Chicago, crops are grown
on at least 90 per cent. of the vacant land.
An approximate estimate of crops and crop-values given out by
the Committee, is as follows (and a very conservative estimate is
this, certain to be greatly surpassed when the actual figures are
all in),
._|NUMBER OF] VALUE OF
ACRES | ARDENERS CROP
Home Yard Gardens. .... | 3,850] 140,000 2,800,000
Vacant Lot Community
Gardens pst ate fe oN area: 774 8,422 673,760
Children’s Gardens...... 206 90,000 55,020
Approximate Grand Totals, 4,830 | 238,422 | $3,529,380
Nearly 5,000 acres under cultivation, and three
and a half million dollars’ worth of crops is a
record the Chicago Committee may well be proud
of. And admirable as this record is, it is not
exceptional, but typical of the best-managed
community gardening. But the cooperation
of parks, and florists’ associations, the codpera-
tion of existing associations, the districting of
the city so that no labor might be wasted is well
worthy of attention.
3 63 fe
Many of the women of the Directing Commit-
tee for Children’s War Gardens are also on the
committee of the excellently managed Illinois
Training Farm of the Women’s Land Army of
America. Through the generosity of Mr. W.
V.B. Ames 200 acres of his Libertyville farm, be-
side some stock and the buildings, was tendered to
the Women’s Land Army. Here a six months
training in farming, dairying, and poultry raising,
and vegetable gardening is given freely. The
applicant must be in good health, must promise
to use the training for the patriotic aims of the
Land Army, and must enroll until the end of
October. ‘There are no expenses—no charge for
tuition, board, or lodging.
There are plenty of untrained women eager to
work on farms and in gardens, but our crying
need is for trained help. It is this need that
“Liberty Farm” is planned to meet. Next
year its students can act as directors of children’s
94
gardens for which posts
this year the supply was
unequal to the demand.
Mrs. Tiffany Blake is
chairman of the commit-
tee, others on it are Mrs.
W. V. B. Ames, Mrs. G. B.
B. Steward and Mrs.C.W. Deusner—both very able
members of the Women’s National Farm & Gar-
den Association; Mrs. Peabody, Mrs. Brewster,
Mrs. Dunlap, Mrs. Medill McCormick, Dean
Mary Potter, Mrs. Cahn, Mrs. Charles Hubbard,
Mrs. Rosenstone, Mrs. Chase, Mrs. Stanley
Gordon, Mrs. Vibe K. Spicer, Miss Bell. Miss
Blanche Corwin is Farm Manager.
* *
THIs COMMITTEE has also mothered a success-
ful Part-Time Work scheme, whereby women
who can give so many hours a week, may form a
Unit and cultivate a community garden under
competent supervision, so that next year all will
be fairly expert gardeners. More than go part-
time units have been formed throughout Illinois,
and the work has the approval of J. H. Prost,
director of the Chicago Committee, and like all
garden work in or near Chicago, it has had the
backing and aid of the central committee.
In THE enterprise of getting women workers
on to the land, far more is due to the pioneer
schools of horticulture for women than many
realize. If it had not been for the admirable
work done at the School of Horticulture for
Women at Ambler, Pa., and the School at Gro-
ton, Mass., we should indeed have been hard
put to it to find directors and supervisors for
various garden enterprises for women. These
schools, and especially the one at Ambler, blazed
the way, and made the success of many an under-
taking possible.
o3 CE te
Like THE parks, which have been more use-
ful to the citizens than ever they dreamed of
before, the Public Schools are also making them-
selves useful as community centres. W. L.
Fleisher, New York Member of the American
Society of Heating and Ventilating Engineers,
asks ‘‘Why not use the public-schools as food-
drying plants—in New York City there is actual
apparatus to dry enough food to feed 2,000,000
men three meals every day?
Our public schools could easily be utilized for the country’s food
needs. The walls of these buildings eliminate the necessity of a
great part of the kilns. The heating and ventilating systems could
be turned into dehydrating plants in very quick order. Of the 700
schools in Greater New York half have efficient ventilating equip-
ments—I0,500,000 cubic feet of air per minute in these 350 schools
can be heated to the right temperature. The products would be
500 pounds of dried material a minute, or 300,000 pounds per working
day of ten hours, the total amount of food per day for 2,000,000 men.
Basement corridors could be turned into tunnel dryers by means of
wooden partitions. The tunnel dryer, according to commercial
practice, is the very best and most economical made. I would have
the carriers or trays built by the boys of our manual training schools,
supplemented by outside labor, and would have both our boys and
girls instructed in the preparation of the food and the drying. The
Government would ship to the schools the food to be dried and the
products could be made ready for shipment there. The school
dryers could also be used for drying the surplus domestic product
that the communities brought to the school.
And while the school buildings were thus
employed the children could have their lessons in
the parks. It is probable they would highly ap-
prove of the scheme though whether the Board of
Education would do so, is another matter. ‘The
suggestion makes one wonder, however, how
much ‘‘dehydrating” the children get in the
course of the school day?
* * *
Uncie Sam furnishes abundant information
as to canning and drying which may be had
from the National War Garden Commission,
and the States Relations Service, (Address Office
of Extension Work, North and West, Washing-
ton, D. C.) publishes excellent follow-up instruc-
tion leaflets for use in the Home Canning Club
work. The complete series may be had by
asking for the following under their cabalistic
signs NR-21, NR-22, NR-23, NR-24, NR-25,
NR-26, NR-29, NR-3o.
Frances Duncan.
SS TTA A UII UIXHUBSKTBTTIMITTITITDITDUBIKIITIIIIUUTITNIXITU000IU
OcTosBer, 1918-
HODGSON dts
Even in normal times, the Hodgson Way is the most ad-
vantagequs way to buy a cottage, garage, playhouse or any
other small house.
The Hodgson Way shows you an actual photograph of
the house before you buy it, with outlines of the rooms
and dimensions to the smallest detail. The prices are item-
ized: you know the exact cost of the house before it is built.
The houses are constructed in the Hodg-
son factory and shipped in neat sections
already fitted and painted. These sections
can easily be put together without the aid
of complicated blueprints or conferences
with contractors. They do away with trou-
ble, dirt, noise, and waste.
Buy your house the Hodgson Way. But
first send for a catalogue which illustrates a
wide variety of houses. To insure your get-
ting the house when you need it, we advise
you to send your order as early as possible.
By sending 25% of the cost with your order
, we will hold it ‘antil you need it. At the same
time you protect yourself against rising
prices. Send for the catalogue to-day.
E. F. HODGSON CO.
Room 228, 71-75 Federal St., Boston
6 East 39th St., New York
Cottage
A Garden Library for a
Dollar and a Quarter
Bound volumes of THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
represent the last word on gardening. It is really
a loose leaf cyclopedia of horticulture. You are
kept up to date. Save your copies of THE GAR-
DEN MAGAZINE and let us bind them for you.
There is a new volume every six months, and Vol.
27 is ready now. Send your magazines by Parcel
Post and we will supply index, and bind them for
you for $1.25. If you have not kept all of the
numbers, we will supply the missing copies at 25c
each, or we will supply the bound volume complete
for $2.00. THE GARDEN MAGAZINE can be
of more service this year than ever before, and you
can get most out of the magazine when you bind
it, and keep it in permanent form. Address:
Circulation Department
GARDEN MAGAZINE, Garden City, N.Y.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 95
Get Better Results by Pruning
“The Little Pruning Book” will help. Correct pruning
adds vigorous and healthy growth to your trees and plants.
Better fruit or better flowers is the result.
The how, when and where of correct pruning as well as the
kind of shears to use, will be found in this practical book.
Pexto Pruning Shears have the all-important easy grip and
a clean-cutting edge. ere’s a Pexto Dealer in your locality,
Send for free circular, or better still send 50 cents for the
_book. Money refunded if not satisfactory.
EXT The Peck, Stow & Wilcox Company, Cleveland, O.
PE> Up, _ TO
PRUNING SHEARS |
4,
Don’t Buy a New
Stove Before See-
==-ing This Range—
You’re probably thinking of buying
a new stove right now. ‘This time,
see the Duplex-Alcazar before you
buy and learn just how good a range
.can be.
This range burns three fuels—Gas
and Wood or Osan singly or incombination. And in coun-
try districts where Gas in not to be had, we make a type
that uses Oil and Wood or Coal.
Better cooking results—less fuel cost—a warm kitchen in
winter and a cool kitchen in summer. ‘The advantage of
two ranges at the cost and space of one. ‘That’s what the
Duplex-Alcazar offers you.
It will pay you to see your dealer, or write to us,
mention whether interested in the Gas or Oil type.
ALCAZAR RANGE & HEATER COMPANY
403 Cleveland Avenue Milwaukee, Wis.
a
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TWO RANGES IN ONE.
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Lai IMP SOAP
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. | ‘HE use of Imp Soap Spray on fruit trees,
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on can. Pts. 40c.; Qts., 60c.; Gal., $2.10; 5
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F.E. ATTEAUX & CO., Props.
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ean Sris Gardeng-
call the attention of the connoisseur
to the fact that they have the larg-
est collection of Iris in the West and
one of the largest in the country.
We specialize in sorts especially
adapted to Pacific coast conditions,
though our collection is broad
enough to serve all Iris enthusiasts.
Price list of new and standard kinds
free on request
Bean Iris Gardens, Moneta, Cal.
“‘How To Grow Roses’’\.
This helpful manual will save |
f your timeand insure success with the is
“queen of flowers.” Beautiful library
edition; 121 pages; 16 full-page illus-
trations in natural colors. Sent pre-
paid for$1. Weinclude return coupon
good for $1. on first $5. order for the
“Best Roses in America.” Order
to-day; ask for free Floral Guide.
Abridged edition of ‘‘How To Grow Roses” 10c.
ONARD *& EST GROVE,
CG: Jones Co. Box 24, Pa.
Read about the wonderful Hugonis Rose in
the Garden Magazine, September
DWARF APPLE TREES
DWARF PEAR TREES
DWARF PLUM TREES
DWARF CHERRY TREES
DWARF PEACH TREES
Catalogue Free
THE VAN DUSEN NURSERIES
Cc. C. McKAY, Mer. Box G, Geneva, N. Y.
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Snowballs For Next Year’s
and other |
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Shrubs We are as well pre-
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Trees 3 “ Y of your fruit and
berry garden as
all ornamental
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Fruit & Berries
Over #00 acres of specially selected stock to choose from.
Our nurseries are 20 minutes from Penn. Terminal N.Y.C.
to Broadway, Flushing. Pay usa visit, phone or write.
Flushing, L. I., N. Y.
American Nursery Co.
OcToBER, 1918
Potatoes Grown Under a Straw Mulch
E. F. MURPHY,
Director of Home Gardens, Richmond, Ind. F
HE high-priced potato has helped much
toward making the cultivation of crop
welcome in the small garden. In
nearly every war garden last summer
one saw a few rows of potatoes regardless of
the size of garden, and the home gardener
has found that they are deserving of the
space. Heretofore it has been thought that
potatoes were out of place in the small garden,
but a sudden change has developed and
every odd way of growing potatoes has been
put into use.
One of the easiest and most practical ways
of growing potatoes in the little garden is to
grow them under straw. Then they do not
require cultivation and are not dependent
on a rain at any particular time. The thick
layer of straw keeps down the weeds and
allows a more even distribution of moisture
throughout the growing season; and two of
the most common difficulties of potato
growing are eliminated. There is always
plenty of moisture in the soil in early spring,
and one of the big problems has been to con-
serve it and have an even distribution for the
crop throughout the growing period.
The moisture that is beneficial to plant
growth is capillary moisture which rises
toward the earth’s surface between the soil
particles. This moisture readily evaporates
as it comes to the surface unless the ground
is mulched and the soil then soon becomes
dry and hard, which is very undesirable for
potatoes. A mulch of straw is an effective
means of conserving moisture during the en-
tire summer. One may lift off the straw at
any time during dry weather and find the
ground below it sufficiently moist and cool.
‘This is an ideal condition for potato-growing.
A dust mulch is not quite so effective inas-
much as capillarity is soon reéstablished and
the moisture is then able to evaporate.
[NX ORDER to grow potatoes under straw,
the ground is spaded as usual, and a
fine garden seed-bed is prepared. Small
furrows are then made about three inches
deep and twenty to twenty-four inches apart,
and the seed pieces dropped at proper dis-
tances in the furrows. Some growers cover
the pieces with about an inch of soil and then
mulch with straw; but equally good results
have been obtained by merely covering the
pieces with about six inches of straw.
Potatoes grown under straw require no
attention—save for the potato beetle—until
they are ready to be harvested. And when
they are harvested, one has only to lift off
the straw and fill the basket! The potatoes
are clean, smooth, of usual size, and of good
quality.
Now, as the home gardener takes pride in
saving for seed next year something he has
actually grown himself, especially if he has
produced something of unusual quality or
size, he has here a wonderful opportunity
to even scientifically select seed potatoes,
when he has grown them under straw. The
common method of selecting seed potatoes
is to go to the potato pile after digging and
storing and pick out the nice ones for seed.
In this way, one may be selecting a seed
potato which came from a hill that produced
only one or two desirable tubers. When they
are grown under straw, one may remove the
straw from all the rows, walk along, and, by
comparing the different hills, select good seed
from desirable hills. If this be done each
year, one will gradually have a strain of po-
tatoes that will more nearly approach the
ideal. ‘This is scientific selection as practised
by the novelty breeder.
POTATOES grown under
better seed potatoes than those culti-
_vated in the usual manner according to my
“The proof of the pudding’’—just as they grew under their
straw covering
observations. Investigations conducted by
the Nebraska Agricultural Experiment Sta-
tion as shown by the following table indicate
that seed produced under mulch produces
more tubers than seed that is cultivated:
RESULTS OF MULCHING MORE THAN ONE YEAR
NO. OF YEARS
MULCHED AND
CULTIVATED
Years | Tests Lbs.
2 4 100
100
100
100
100
100
100
MULCHED SEED/CULTIVATED SEED
PRODUCED PRODUCED
4 WN A ee
*Lbs. produced as compared with 100 lbs. produced from
mulched seed. \
There are many other ways of growing
potatoes. Look into the city backyard gar-
dens and you will find them growing in boxes,
pyramids, and even barrels. The practica-
bility of these methods remains yet to be seen,
but the straw method has come to stay.
Dahlias Not Flowering?—Will not those
who are suffering from Dahlias not blossoming:
please state what they think is the reason? [
have been taught to suppose that the buds
and shoots suffer from the stinging of the
tarnished plant bug. My Dahlias grew
very fast, this July, on account of good soil
and the heavy rains. I have them set quite
close together, each plant cut down to one
shoot and am prepared to cover the whole
plot with mosquito netting as soon as the bug
makes its appearance.—John W. Chamberlin.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
straw ' make.
OctrospeER, 1918
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
97
Wild Flower Conservation
AS SEVERAL people have written me
concerning my article on “Wild Flower
Preservation” in THE GarDEN Macazine for
February, 1917, and believing that others
might, too, be interested in the different
phases of the subject, I will add some sugges-
tions to what has already been published.
Someone wishes to know how to get the public
interested. First, be interested thoroughly
yourself, then, like leaven, the thing will have
a good start. And I have the belief that city
people can be more easily interested in the
conservation of wild flowers than country
people. I remember that when I lived on a
farm such plants as Oxeye Daisies, New Eng-
land Asters, etc., I despised as weeds, and
for good reason; but now, a city suburbanite,
I give a conspicuous place to our natives in
my garden. And by becoming an enthusiast
in this line I have interested others in wild
flower culture. Another way of getting the
public interested is through the school chil-
dren.
One party wishes to know how to go about
the saving of our wild flowers. In your trips
about the country or the fields of the suburb
it is well to anticipate the securing of some
wild floral treasure by carrying a few coin en-
velopes for seeds or some waxed paper for
wrapping plants. Let the school children
interest themselves in the saving and sowing
of worthy wild flower seeds, paying attention
to. soil requirements. But do not hesitate
to sow bog plant seeds in ordinary garden soil,
or vice versa, for plants often have a way of
accommodating themselves to environment
foreign to their original habitat. I have made
the ised Slipper Orchid do splendidly in a
shady spot in the garden. And we are all ac-
quainted with the glory of the Cardinal Flower
in everyone’s garden that naturally loves a
moist place for her feet! Then if aquatics
and semi-aquatics will not survive in our
moist spots we can saw a barrel in two, sink
it even, so as not to be visible and insure a
plentiful supply of moisture.
Then, again, there are many wildings that
can be propagated from cuttings. It is sur-
prising the readiness with which some will
root. I brought home some slips of our wild
prairie Rose and thrust them in moist earth
and turned a mason jar over them and in
a few days they were all rooted. This
Rose develops a stem some twenty feet in
length.
I remember that when I came to Detroit
sixteen years ago, wild flowers were held in
such light esteem that I innocently picked a
bouquet of the choicest May Flowers in the
woods of Belle Isle and brazenly passed sev-
eral policemen on my way out of the Park.
Now rigid restrictions are placed on such
vandalism.
Then purple Gerardias, Gentians and the
like were treated as weeds. Now they are
cherished by many individuals and societies.
Then wild life in the parks could be classed
as simply plants and shrubs and trees. Now
they are individualized. A neat label helps
to educate people and introduces them to the
non-botanical population. Some people may
have the idea that our natives cannot be trans-
planted when in bloom. But I have yet to
meet with disaster from moving flowering
plants. The fine feature about it is that you
can see what you are getting. This is es-
oy desirable with such kinds as Canada
ily, Veronica and Phlox that vary so in their
coloring.
Redford, Michigan
U.R. PERRINE.
Dreer’s Reliable
| Spring-Blooming
Bulbs
D° not miss the joy of having a bed or border
of Bulbs next Spring. Plant them this Fall
as early as you can and success is certain.
We import the very highest grades of the finest
varieties and offer in our Autumn Catalogue
splendid collections of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcis-
sus, Crocus, Snowdrops, etc., etc.
The Fail is also the time to set out Hardy
Perennial
Plants, Vines, Shrubs, etc. Our Autumn
Catalogue also gives a complete list of seasonable
seeds, plants and bulbs for out-doors, window
garden and conservatory.
Mailed free to anyone mentioning this magaxine
Henry A. Dreer
714-16 Chestnut St.
Philadelphia, Pa.
Tulips, Narcissi, Peonies, Irises
Many Varieties. Send for price list
SPECIAL OFFERS:
$1.60
1.60
2.00
1.40
1.40
Tulips, Mixed May-Flowering, all colors
“* ~~ Mixed Parrot, gaudy, frilled edges
Mixed Darwin, all colors
Narcissi, Pheasant’s Eye, late poeticus
«« ~ Biflorus, primrose white, late
Barrii Conspicuus, yellow 1.80
Grandiflorus, early poeticus 2.40
Price is per 100, postage paid. 25 of a kind at 100 rate, pro-
vided order totals 100 or more. Order now, and make sure of
your supply.
Peonies: 20, all different, $2.50, postage paid
Irises: 12, all different, $1.00, postage paid
Siberian Irises: 4 colors, 50 cents, postage paid
These collections can not be divided
Carthage, Mo.
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Oronogo Flower Gardens
co, ~+Beautify Your Garden
With
GABHOWAY POTTERY
Catalog on Request
GATOWAY TeRRA- rts COMPANY
= 3214 WALNuT ST., PHILADELPHIA
7 66 99
Marvel
WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM
For medium-sized suburban or
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_ Let the “‘thousand-and-one” Dem-
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Booklet of water supply facts
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Sladly mailed free.
THE DEMING CO.
111 Depot Street Salem, Ohio
from your trees if you keep
them free from San Jose
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Kills all tree pests without injury to trees.
soilfand aids healthy growth.
Our valuable book on tree and
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usquehanna Ave., Phila.
Fertilizes
JAMES GOOD, 2111-15 E. S
7 ft. long x oft. high
g' 13 per section
2 ft. Gin. long x 5 ft. high (gute)
1.76 « “6
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“BUFFALO” PORTABLE FENCING SYSTEM
Enables you to make any size yard or runway desired. Can be moved to other locations at will.
st. 8 ft. long x 2 ft. high
6 ft. long x 2 ft. high
Above prices are for orders consisting of six sections or more and are F. O. B. cars Buffalo, N.Y. Bestarticle on the
market for young chicks, ducks, geese and other small fowl and animals, also for enclosing small gardens in season.
Place your order to-day. You will be well satisfied. Send check, money order or New York Draft and we will send a ‘
you the greatest article for poultry or dog kennel purposes. Booklet 67AA describing this system will be mailed you upon request with six cents to
BUFFALO WIRE WORKS 60.
Prices as follows:
$2.20 per section
$1.76 «<6 66
467 Terrace, BUFFALO, N. Y.
(formerly Scheeler’s Sons)
Dog Kennel
REMEMBER how your poultry suffered from the cold last win-
ter and how it affected their laying? It may be just as cold
this winter and it may be colder, but this does not mean that they
will have to suffer again. Quarter them in a Hodgson Poultry
House. They are storm-proof, comfortable, sanitary, well venti-
lated, and free from drafts. Send for a Hodgson Poultry catalogue.
No. 4 Poultry House for 200 hens—s units
No. 3 Poultry House for 30 hens
It shows poultry and pet stock houses, kennels, etc., in various
styles and sizes. They are shipped in sections already painted,
and can be assembled without the use of the toolbox.
E. F. HODGSON CO., Room 311, 71-73 Federal St.,
Boston—6 E, 39th St., New York
HODGSON PORTABLE HOUSES
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
self-operating, and can be installed
inent people.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FlowerBulbs |
jor Fall and Winter
L DARWIN TULIPS fez:
in pots or Garden beds and bor-
ders. Huge flowers, long stems,
5o= great range of colors.
40large bulbs, many kinds mixed, p'paid $1.00
Water
» Flowering FRENCH NARCISSUS
i f Exquisite, fragrant, white indoor bloom-
ers in gravel and water or earth.
} 12 large bulbs, p’paid for 60c.
h ‘The above two offers for $1.50.
| The golden trum
d DAFFODILS pets that herald
the advent of spring. Sure, effective. ¢y
For pots indoors or garden use.
} 40 large bulbs, mixed kinds,p’paid, $1.00;
The above three offers for $2.50. i
i / CINTHS, IRISES, PAEONIES, all ¥
PY other Bulbs and Plants. Descriptive and
Y Cultural Catalogue, 56 pages, FREE. ty iat 4
WINTER ONION SETS for the back yard, | }
plant now. 8 Ibs. $1.00, prepaid. sf
VAUGHAN'S SEED STORE
31-33 G. Randolph Street, Chicago.
41-43 G. Barclay Street, New York.
SEWAGE DISPOSAL ),
The Aten System eliminates the
obnoxious cesspool. It is permanent,
ld
by any one. Used by many prom- ' FRET
Recommended
by well-known architects. hare oo
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Write for
Booklet No. 6
PLANT PEONIES NOW!
‘There is no flower in the garden
yielding such a wealth of beauty as the
Peony. Beauty of form, richness of
coloring, delicate fragrance, vigor and
endurance are its endowments. Fall
is the time to plant your Peony Gar-
den. We have Peonies to suit all
tastes and all purses. Send for our
catalogue, which describes over five
hundred kinds; make your selection
now and next spring you will have
lovely blooms to reward you.
The Wing Seed Co., Box 1626, Mechanicsburg, O.
(The House of Quality and Moderate Prices)
“HOW TO GROW ROSES”—Library Edition; 121 pages—z6 in
natural colors.
for plants.
Not a catalogue. Price $1, refunded on $5 order
The Conard & Jones Co., Box 24, West Grove, Pa.
HARDY EHLOx
Are the peer in the garden, blooming during all sum-
mer until frost. We have the last word in phlox.
Send for list. it’s free.
W. F. SCHMEISKE
State Hospital Station
Box 11.
Binghamton New York
Every Library must contain’
a complete Kipling — that
R. K.._ is if you plan to afford your
children the heritage of the Anglo-
Saxon family.
Published by
Doubleday, Page G Company
Garden City, New York
OctoserrR, 1918
Growing Mushrooms for Profit
HERE are several distinct varieties of
the cultivated mushroom which, based
upon color, may be distinguished as a
white, a brown, and an intermediate or
cream-gray variety. To these have been ap-
plied the trade names Alaska, Bohemia, and
Columbia, respectively. Mushroom growing
is not the easy, sure and simple process that we
are led to believe. It is more generally regarded
as a forcing crop, and it fits in well as a winter
crop for the market gardener. The consider-
able quantity of manure that must be secured
to get the best results can be used to good
advantage on the vegetable crops after com-
ing out of the mushroom beds. All that is
needed to produce mushrooms is a suitable
building, some stable manure and the mycel-
jum, or spawn. The building should be built
so that the air inside can be kept at a uniform
temperature of fifty to sixty degrees. There
should be provision for ventilation and the
darker the place the better. I would not
advise the use of the cellar beneath the house
for this purpose, because there is always some
odor and it usually winters quantities of flies.
However, mushrooms can be grown most con-
veniently in the greenhouse, under benches
where there are no pipes. If asparagus is not
forced—in itself a paying crop—the space
under the benches, which may thus be utilized,
is but of little use for other purposes, and
the income obtained from it is nearly all
gain.
Having the suitable building, the next thing
needed is good spawn; the use of poor spawn is
one of the chief causes of failure. The only
test that can be made of spawn is to examine
it; as it takes an expert to tell whether the
spawn is fresh or stale, be sure to deal with a
reliable seedsman and keep the spawn in a
cool, dry place. The next important re-
quisite is horse stable manure. This should
be, if possible, from well fed animals that are
bedded with straw; it can rarely be secured
with enough moisture, so water should be
added. ‘Take out all the strawy and coarse
parts using nothing but the fine portion of it.
Mix this with fresh loam, one part loam to two
parts manure, and add water. The manure is
ready to be made up into beds when it gets the
color of strong coffee throughout and is so
damp that the moisture can be seen when a
handful is squeezed. There should not be
enough to drip. The manure will usually be
ready to put into the beds about a week or ten
days after it is secured.
Construct the bed 8 to to inches deep, about
4 feet wide and as long as required, allowing
the prepared material to stand as it is. A
thermometer should be pushed down into the
manure and when the heat has dropped to 80
degrees, the bed should be spawned. Make
holes two or three inches deep, into which put
the spawn in pieces about as large as a hen’s
egg. Cover the spawn and let it remain un-
disturbed for eight to ten days; then cover the
whole bed two inches deep with good garden
soil or loam, making it firm with the back of a
shovel or spade. Apply water only when the
soilis verydry. A covering of straw should be
put on the beds to insure more uniform con-
ditions. After the loam is applied there is
nothing further to be done except to see that as
- nearly as possible a uniform temperature of
sixty degrees is maintained. Under suitable
conditions and with the exercise of constant
vigilance as to general cleanliness, the mush-
room bed will seldom fail as a result of diseases
or insect depredations.
Mushrooms will appear in six or eight weeks,
and will continue more than two months. By
careful applications of water at the tempera-
ture of about 70 degrees, the season may be
prolonged. Under proper conditions mush-
rooms can be grown any season of the year.
The month of February usually brings best
market prices for the mushrooms. ‘The yield
will vary from a few ounces to a pound per
square foot; the prices will range from twenty
cents to one dollar a pound. Mushrooms
come up in clusters and should be pulled from
the soil. Cut off the stem at the base and any
adhering soil is brushed from the cap. It is
not necessary to cut off the stem short, but the
market demands that there shall be a few long
shanks. Quart and 2-quart baskets, crated,
make the best packages.
Maryland. SaMUEL H. GaREKOL.
An Experiment and Two Observations: Dahlias, Beans, Potatoes
HEN the call came last spring for war
gardens I did not wish to throw away
my aristocratic Dahlias to make room
for common vegetables. I hesitated
but was not lost. J remembered how, when I
was a boy on a New Hampshire farm, we grew
beans between the hills of corn with no harm to
the corn. I thought, if corn why not Dahlias,
and planted pea beans between my Dahlias
with the result that 1 now have enough dry
beans to furnish me with the regulation New
England Sunday morning breakfast of baked
beans until next year’s garden begins to yield.
We had to be a little more careful when cul-
tivating, but aside from that the beans were
a clear profit.
The high cost of potatoes caused two of
my neighbors, one whose lot adjoins mine,
the other lives across the street, to try ex-
periments in planting. One, getting some
especially good potatoes from the market,
cut out eyes, from day to day as they were
cooked, and planted the eyes in common
garden soil in small flower pots and boxes
and kept them in the kitchen. At planting
time the eyes, all of which had sprouted, some
two or three inches, were transplanted to the
garden. When dug, the yield both in quan-
tity and quality was fully equal to that in
near-by gardens where seed potatoes had
been cut up and planted in the usual way.
The other neighbor cut off the seed end of
potatoes before cooking and placed the cut-
tings on a shelf in the cellar where they re-
mained several weeks and became quite dry
before they were planted, but they grew and
yielded as well as some planted in the usual
way in another part of the garden In addi-
tion to this, he found some potatoes that had
sprouted, with the feeding roots starting at
the base of the sprouts. He broke off the
sprouts close to the potato and planted them.
‘They grew and when dug yielded as many to
the hill as any he had planted.
From these results it seems that one who
has a place where he can pot the eyes and
keep them until planting time, can not only
eat his potato and plant it too, but may get
new potatoes sooner than he could if he
planted in the usual way.
Athol, Mass. E. V. WILSON.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
OctosBeErR, 1918
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 99
Household Hints
HE old timemethod of drying fruitand veg-
etables in the sun certainly made a better
and sweeter product, but it required much
attention and to be covered with cheese cloth or
mosquito netting as a protection against in-
sects, and to be taken in at night in case of
rain.
A very simple home-made device would
save much trouble—use one hotbed sash
which measures three by six feet, make a
frame just as is made for a cold frame—two
feet high at back and one foot high in front
and the sides made sloping. Place this box
on a sunny roof of a porch with the trays of
fruit under the glass sash. The trays should
be lifted from the roof resting on two bricks
so as to be as near the glass as possible, and
are better still if made of wire mesh. Such
things can be gotten at the ten cent stores.
The glass draws the sun and dries the fruit
more rapidly and also protects it from the
rain, and so, the process of drying can be com-
pleted without moving the trays back and
forth. Sulphurating fruit is another method
which is very good and the fruit does not
turn dark as it does by sun drying.
Sulphurated Fruit. Apples may be cut in large pieces with or
without peeling. Put in basket and hang in the top of a close
barrel covering with something heavy, an old quilt folded makes
a good cover. Have in the bottom of the barrel a pan of coals
on which to pour the sulphur. Cover and leave four or five
hours. One cup of sulphur to a half bushel of fruit will be suf-
ficient. Do not put all the sulphur in at once. It is best to use
half a cup and leave for an hour or two, then replenish fire and
use other half. It is a good idea to sulphurate in the afternoon
and leave basket hanging in the barrel overnight. Take from
basket, pack fruit in large mouthed stone jars and tie a muslin
cloth over top. Leave this without any other cover in order
that the sulphur may evaporate. Peaches halved and sul
phurated are excellent, and delicious served with cream and
sugar.
Where there are large orchards and vine-
yards much fruit goes to waste, but apple
and peach and pear butter is very palatable,
and the fruit juices which can be kept sweet
to use in winter are most desirable.
Besides the receipt for apple butter, and the
one for keeping cider sweet, I add two modern
ones which are excellent.
APPLE SYRUP
Fill a kettle two-thirds full of sweet cider. Seven gallons of
cider will make one gallon of syrup.
To seven gallons of cider put five ounces of calcium carbon-
ate, or carbonate of lime, sold in the drug stores as powdered
marble dust or precipitated chalk. Boil for a few minutes.
Pour into large jars and allow it to settle until perfectly clear.
Pour syrup back into kettle leaving sediment behind. Add a
level teaspoonful of chalk and boil liquid down to one-seventh
of the original volume, or until of the consistency of maple
syrup. Pour off and allow it to cool slowly and allow sediment
to settle. To cool slowly, the vessel containing the liquid can
be put inside of another vessel containing warm water and set
aside, both cooling. Pour the clear portion in kettle and heat
nearly to boiling point and pour hot into sterilized fruit jars or
bottles and seal immediately, or pour cold into bottles or jars
and set in boiler of water and sterilize as is done for fruits.
Unfermented Grape Juice. Use thoroughly ripe grapes. Wash
the clusters and remove all imperfect grapes. Do not stem the
good ones. Fill a kettle with the grapes and put in enough
water to be seen down through the grapes. Cover and cook
slowly until the juice is extracted. Drain through a colander,
then pour the juice through a jelly bag, but do not squeeze it
out. Good ripe Concord grapes require no sugar, but if grapes
are sour, sweeten the juice to taste. Put juice in sterilized
bottles, put in corks lightly, place bottles on a rack in a boiler
with water half way up bottles and boil for five minutes and
push corks tight into bottles and cover with sealing wax.
Apple Butter. Wave your kettle thoroughly clean and fill it
early in the morning with cider made of sound apples and fresh
from the press; let it boil half away, which may be done by three
o'clock in the afternoon; have pared and cut enough good apples
to fill the kettle; put them in a clean tub dnd pour the boiling
cider over, then scour the kettle and put in the apples and cider,
let them boil briskly till the apples sink to the bottom; slacken
the fire and let them stew, like preserves, till ten o’clock at night.
Some dried quinces stewed in cider and put in are an improve-
ment. Season with orange peel, cinnamon or cloves just before
itis done. If you like it sweeter, you can put in some sugar an
hour before itisdone. If it cannot be finished the first day, put
it in a tub and finish it the next day; and when it is done, put it
in stone jars. Anything acid would not be put in earthern ves-
sels as the glazing is poisonous. This way of making apple but-
ter requires little stirring, but you must keep a constant watch
so it doesn’t burn. Peaches and pears can be done the same
way.
“Home Attractions”
PERGOLAS
Lattice Fences
Garden Houses
For Beautifying Home
Grounds :
When writing enclose 10c.
and ask for Pergola Cata-
logue “H-30.
HARTMANN-SANDERS CO.
Elston and Webster Aves., Chicago, III.
New York City Office, 6 E. 39th Street
PLUMBINE EMERGENCY CEMENT
To repair burst Waterpipes, Tanks,
Sinks, Lavatories, etc.
¥, POUND PACKAGE TO YOUR HOME SENT ON RECEIPT OF 25c. IN STAMPS.
STONE TAR PRODUCTS COMPANY
f 97 SOUTH SIXTH STREET. BROOKLYN. N. Y.
SUNDIALS
Real Bronze Colonial Designs
From $3.50 Up
Also Bird Baths, Garden Benches, Fountain
Sprays and other garden requisites.
Manufactured by
The M. D. JONES CO.
Concord, Mass.
Send for illustrated Price-List
MORRIS NURSERIES
Box 804, .West Chester, Pa.
Established 1849
Fruits and Ornamental Trees,
Evergreens, Shrubbery, Roses, Etc.
Write for free catalogue
AGE’'S
MR. ROBERT PYLE—the well-known Garden Lecturer and
GLUE see:
Rosarian invites correspondence from garden lovers and societies.
TUBES
MEND-DONT SPEND
Subject — “The American Rose Garden” illustrated with finely
colored lantern slides. Address: West Grove, Pa.
* Some hundred thousand people read Miss
Cinderella Marjorie Benton Cooke's sparkling story of
Jane
“Bambi.” This new book is quite as bright,
but it is a better piece of work and should
have a larger audience. Will you be one?
Published by
Doubleday, Page & Company
Garden City, N. Y.
Tho original
chemical closet. More
comfortable, healthful, conveni-
ent. Takes the place of all outdoor
toilets, where germs breed. Be
ready for the long, cold winter,
Have a warm, sanitary, comfort-
able, odorless toilet right in the
house anywhere you wantit. Don’t
go out in the cold, A boon to
invalids.
GUARANTEED ODORLESS
The germs are killed by a
chemical in water in the
container. Empty once @
month as easy as _ ashes.
Oloset guaranteed. Thirty
days’ trial. Ask for catalog
end price,
BOWE SANITARY MFG, CO.
' 53106th St., Detroit, Mich,
Ask about Ro-San Washstand--
Hot and Cold Running W:
Without Plumbing. °F
Salt Mackerel
CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER
RIGHT FROM THE FISHING BOATS TO YOU
FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied DIRECT
from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK E. DAVIS
COMPANY, with newly caught KEEPABLE OCEAN FISH,
choicer than any inland dealer could possibly furnish.
We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT, sending
by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We PREPAY
express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish are pure, appe-
tizing and econcmical and we want YOU to try some, payment
subject to your approval.
SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious for
breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not spoil
on your hands.
CODFISH, as we salt it, is{white, boneless and ready for
instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from
meat, at a much lower cost.
FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads.
Right fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are boiled and
packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They come to you
as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy and the meat is as
crisp and natural as if you took it from the shell yourself.
FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your whole
family will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that of clams,
whether fried or in a chowder.
FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP, to
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled, SAL-
MON ready so serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY fer
salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every ‘good thing packed
here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep right on
your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use.
With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES for ~*
preparing all our products. Write for zi. Our list
tells how each kind of fish is put up, with the
delivered price so you can choose just what ¢
you willenjoy most. Send the coupon for o” Frank E-
it now. a Davis Co.,
BRANKGE (DAVIS|COlp ag a 2esntralWhart:
Gloucester, Mass.
22 Central Wharf, os?
Gloucester, o*
Mass.
Please send me your latest
Fish Price List.
PEONIES
Fifteen fine named Peonies for $2.50, or 25 for $5.00 all
different and truly labeled, a chance to obtain a fine collection
at half price, comprising such varieties as Festiva Maxima,
Delachei, Achillea, Lady LL. Bramwell, Couronne d’Or, Mad.
Calot, and various other fine sorts. With any order of above
for $5.00 I will include one plant of Baroness Shroeder, free.
Thave the largest stock in America of Lady Alexander Duff (aly-
solutely true) and many other fine varieties. Send for catalogue.
W. L. GUMM, Peony Specialist
Remington, Indiana
SOL
An Apology
Due to a regrettable oversight, the September
advertisement of the Palisades Nurseries, Inc., of
Sparkill, New York, was signed “Sparkhill’” instead.
It appeared on Page 63 of the September issue, and =
announced Palisades Popular Perennials for Fall =
Planting. =
=
=
=
=
Any readers, who, because of addressing their
inquiries to Sparkhill were inconvenienced by an un-
pleasant delay, are herewith offered the apologies of
ANNAN
The Advertising Department
HLL
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
OcTroBER, 1918
100 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
el
a
=
in th ae
VER THERE has become as close to most of us as Over Here. In a very =
true sense France, where so many of our boys are, is our other home. 2
And so it will continue to be throughout the war. Counrry Lire, there-
fore, as it follows and tries to serve its great family, so many of whom are on
the fighting line, will be in and of and with the war more completely than ever be- =
fore. Until the war is won, the legend on our banner will be “Country Life in the S
War.” This is merely an outward and visible recognition of the fact that our life 2
and times are changed beyond all that the most imaginative of us have dreamed. E
“Country Lire in the War” will undertake to give the moving panorama =
of the great struggle, its color, its feeling, its human drama—not the campaigns, =
nor the strategy, nor the casualty lists, as other publications are doing all that
IMT
admirably and adequately.
But there are big and vital things that are in the
war and parts of its background that we shall claim for our own.
For example, the personal valor and
intrepid spirit of our men are winning the
highest decorations and honors on the
battlefields. We shall show the pictures
of these heroes together with their decora-
tions—many of them in full color—month
after month in a special section to be called
“Won on the Field of Honor.”
America has gone out to sea.
Country LiFe will give the absorb-
ing story of the men who are building
the battleships and merchant ships
by the hundreds—and the pictures
in full color and monochrome will
be of the kind that one cuts out and
preserves for our children’s children.
America has gone into the sky. Country
Lire will undertake to impart some of the thrill
and feeling of the great aircraft story—the
story of the man’s-size job of making them and
of the boys who fly them—the cavalry of the four
winds. And here again the pictures will be such
interpretative records that they will be kept as
mementoes of a great age.
America has gone into the forests. To-day the
nation’s trees are a priceless possession. They
cover thousands of square miles, almost a conti-
nent in size. From them come timber for air
ships and sea ships. In them graze twelve million
head of cattle, an increase of ten-fold in ten
years. Again the Country Lire pictures
will be worthy of a great patriotic and
descriptive issue.
America has put her hand to the plow
and brought forth a mighty harvest to
feed the world. In a word we have gone
far beyond the country life of yesterday
with our little joys and inconsequential
epic achievements. We can no longer think
our former thoughts, of gardens, of polo, of
orchid collecting, of bird songs, thoughts
of the quiet peace of countryside. Instead we have
stepped out into the world, to help win the battle
for freedom and democracy. It is
this great picture of human activity
and accomplishment that the mag-
azine would present.
And so it will go—the enormous
tasks of the Navy, the spirit of the
marines, the tank corps, the life of
’ the fighting men—all phases and branches of the
war, outside of strategy and news—they will all
find a place on the large and graphic pages of
“Country Lire in the War.”
We shall go forward with this important and
interesting undertaking at once. In October we
shall tell the wonderful story of how England has
enlisted her country homes for the war, and try
to convey to you something of the inspiration
of her glorious countryside. In November the
issue will bé largely devoted to “France, Where
Our Boys Are”—how they were moved by the
hundreds of thousands across the sea, how they
spend their working hours over there, how and when
they play, how they are brought back to health
and vigor when wounded. Our hearts are
there with them; perhaps. this magazine
can transport our mind’s eye there as well.
Trial subscriptions accepted at the special
price of 3 months for $1.00. Address Coun-
iry Life, Garden City, New York.
Watch “Country Lire in the War.”
‘iinet
a_i
putterings, and have come into a day of ~
TTT
Tce
iT
iin
ccc,
Kill the Hun
Kill his Hope
Ons KILLS the Hun, the other kills his
hope. And to kill his hope of victory is as es-
sential right nowas to kill his fighting hordes.
For while hope lasts, the Wolf of Prussia will
force his subject soldiers to the fighting line.
We have floated other loans, built a great
fleet of ships,sunk pirate submarines,sent our
men across and shown the Kaiser’s generals
what American dash and grit and initiative
can do. The Hun has felt the sting of our
bullets and the thrust of our bayonets.
SS aa
~ SS a
~~
La
He is beginning to understand America
Aroused—to dread the weight of our arms
and energy.
This is a crucial moment. Nothing can so
smother the Hun morale, so blast his hopes,
as a further message from a hundred million
Freemen, a message that says in tones that
cannet be misunderstood, “Our lives, our
dollars, our ALL. These are in the fight for
that Liberty which was made sacred by the
sacrifices of our forefathers.”
Buy U.S. Government Bonds Fourth Liberty Loan
ZZ Ga
SS) United States Govt. Commission on Public Information
Contributed through Division of Advertising
This space contributed for the Winning of the War by
PUBLISHERS OF GARDEN MAGAZINE
: When you want tohear
| the worlds greatest artists the Victrola!
To have a Victrola in your home is just like engaging the supreme artists of
the world to entertain your family and your friends at your own fireside.
You have at your command the famous singers and instrumentalists who
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And this is the privilege the Victrola offers you—for the greatest artists, by
making Victrola Records exclusively, have conferred upon it the distinction of
presenting their art in the homes of the people throughout the world.
Any Victor dealer will gladly demonstrate the Victrola and play any music you wish to hear. Victors and
Victrolas $12 to $950. Saenger Voice Culture Records are invaluable to vocal students—ask to hear them.
Victor Talking Machine Co., Camden, N. J., U.S. A. ; i,
Berliner Gramophone Co., Montreal, Canadian Distributors i 7). |
| Victor Supremacy “=
Important Notice. Victor Records and Victor Machines _— WE
are scientifically coordinated and synchronized in the processes of ,
manufacture, and their use, one with tHe other, is absolutely
essential to a perfect reproduction.
New Victor Records demonstrated at ' . a ’ ‘ ( |
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THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, NEW YORK
Replanting the Gardens of France a
a one-cent stamp on this n tice, mail
the magazine, and it will be placed in
the hands of our solaiers or sailors
A Tran g in g GC. ut F I OWES Sette ee
Results from the War Commission Gardens
Postmaster Generad.
NOVEMBER,
1918
Price 25 Cents
a copy
Farr’s Superb Lilacs
For Fall Planting
E
Lilac-time is springtime at its best. One can scarcely con-
ceive of a spring garden without Lilacs; every bush amass of
E
glorious colors, anil filling the air with delicate fragrance. ve
Seemingly perfect, as were the old purple’ and white sorts,
the master hybridizer, Victor Lemoine, touched them with his
magic hand, and lo, from them a multitude of glorified forms
and new colors appeared, with individual flowers and trusses
more than doubled in size; with varieties early and varieties
late, thus considerably lengthening the blooming season.
Ellen Willmott, with long pointed trusses and large snow-white flowers;
Belle de Nancy, soft lilac pink; the splendid early flowered giant, Leon
Gambetta. These are but a few examples of the more than 100 new varieties
that I grow on their own roots at Wyomissing. All these new Lilacs are
unusually free bloomers—far surpassing the old sorts. If you wish these rich
blooms in your garden next spring, the plants must be set this fall.
Farr’s Hardy Plant Specialties
(Sixth Edition, 1918) describes Lemoine’s new Lilacs, Deutzias, Philadel-
phus, Japanese and German Iris, more than 500 varieties of Peonies, Ever-
greens, and Rock-plants. 112 pages of text, 30 fuil page illustrations, 13 in
color. A book of distinct value to garden lovers. IE you do not have a copy
of this Sixth Edition, send for one to-day.
=
r
BERTRAND H. FARR,Wyomissing Nurseries Co.
104 Garfield Avenue
Wyomissing, Penna.
HODGSON oss
ies building of even a small house usually brings with
1S a long string of redtape, contractor’s conferences,
noise, dirt, and finally when the building is finished you
may find that your expectations have not been fully realized.
Why not know before you drive a nail just what the fin-
ished result will be? You can,
Buy your house the Hodgson way. First send for a cata-
logue containing photographs of garages, bungalows, play-
houses and many other small houses in various styles and
sizes, described and outlined to the smallest detail— even
prices are itemized.
After you have made your selection, send your order and
the house will be shipped in neat, compact sections, painted,
and ready to be assembled—this can be done by a couple of
unskilled w orkmen i in a comparatively short time.
By sending 25% of the cost with your order we will pack
your house ready for shipment and hold it for you until you
need it. Thus effectinga saving of time and money—the first
step is to send for the catalogue.
E. F. HODGSON CO.
71-73 Federal Street, Boston
6 East 398th St., New York
Here’s Sound Pruning Advice
You can ‘‘make or b eak” your fruit or flowers by pruning.
Here is a pruning book you need—‘‘The Little Pruning Book,”
brimful of practical advice. It tells how, when and where to prune
for strong, healthy growth.
It has eleven chapters of the soundest and most useful pruning
instructions you have ever read. Then too, it contains some
mighty valuable information about the proper pruning shears to use.
Send for f ee circular, or better still send 50 cents for the book.
Your money refunded if not satisfactory.
The Peck, Stow & Wilcox Company, Cleveland, Ohio
Address correspondence to 2186 W. Third St., Cleveland, Ohio
DEY TO
YU
PRUNING SHEARS
A Garden Library for a
Dollar and a Quarter
Bound volumes of THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
represent the last word on gardening. It is really
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DEN MAGAZINE and let us bind them for you.
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Vol. 27 is now ready. Send your magazines by
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at 25c each, or-we will supply the bound volume
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GARDEN MAGAZINE, Garden City, N. Y.
] ‘Wd
ae 7 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 101
Will There Be Flowers In
||| Your Victory-Peace Garden
UT N. CX t S Pp r 1 n g om ccc
Will there be a regimental band of Tulips to
greet your returning hero?
Will there be a bed of Hyacinths, fragrant
with promises of a fairer, safer world to
THE
1 ae
MAGAZINE
NOVEMBER, 1918
\ | CONTENTS “
Cover DresicnN—“Tue Last Catt” Frank Spradling
PAGE ° ° 5)
FLOWERS AND SHELL SHOCK - - - - - - - 103 live in:
Me Will you help add to the glories of spring-
RODIGIOUS LOTALS - - - - - = = = = - 103 . 5 : zi :
Tur UNHEATED GREENHOUSE - - - - - - - 103 time by contributing your mite of color:
Amonc OuR GARDEN NEIGHBORS - - - - - - 104 Of course you will, PRIS e Rckla nen ndee
Four ILLustRATIONS
that this is the month to plant the bulbs that
will turn out the Harbingers of Spring.
Cotoneaster multiflora calocarpa—Tree- Vaccination
Worthless—Storming the Iris Foe’s Trenches—Hand-
ling Gladiolus Bulbs—An Emergency Garden—“‘Speak
ing of Raspberries” —Getting Rid of Mice—A Green-
house Without Fuel—Another Successful Vegetable
Garden—Fothergilla—Oxytropis i | Write TO-DAY for Special Offer of
FLOWER HOLDERS AND FLOWER ARRANGEMENT : p .
Robert Kafe 106!) St] Flowering Bulbs for Spring Blooms.
Photographs by the author and Rookwood Potteries nm ¥
eee eee Paich see John Scheepers, Inc.
THE GARDEN INTHE SoutH - J. WM. Patterson 110 . : Flower Bulb Specialists
Your GREENHOUSE WITH THE 50% Coat ALLOw- reali z
ANCE -- ie as). a 2 Stone Street New York City
Sketches by There Suedinie : if k See pee a ieee aT ion
REMAKING THE GARDENS OF FRANCE - - - - 112. oh Smee a swale cc amaae cues fat
Photographs by the A Fund for French Wound- nal a =
ed (eentral. plotograph by the Amencan Committee i —TtwTT_CG Nik tnceitti
tor Devastated France) 1
SREADKORUNEXTWEAR =) = = = = = = nn n
Photographs page 114 by Paul Thompson, page 115 by hl
Minneapolis Journal, Paul Thompson and the Depart- i
ment of Parks, New York City. y V
PicTortAL LESSONS IN Pruninc - - TZ. Sheward 116 I
Sketch by the author i nD S
THE Monrtx’s SEEDED “CLEAN Up AND CLEAR Sa] 10 ink t ki
Uppy?" =" = = - - - - - M.G. Kains 117
THE GARDEN “Movies” No. - - - - - -1I1 W
Photographs by W. C. McCellom 2 P LANT NO
UncLe Sam’s GARDENING - - Frances Duncan 120 and let our Autumn
“Gassep?” No NorIr You Herp - - - - 121 Wie snateius be your guide.
Borate Bucs AND AIRPLANES - - - - - - - I2Er Three gems your gar-
| GREENSIDE” OF ToMATOES - - - - - - - 121 den should include:
COMPARISON OF TOMATOES ='s 5 = = = - 225 Fe °
WINTER QUARTERS FOR THE TENDER PLANTS - - 123 ‘ Our New Hybrid Pyre-
thrums, Giant Flowered
Marshmallow, Home-
grown Roses.
Rutherford N ew J ersey_
Way E ectric HEAT WILL Fait
Arthur McCausland 123
Tue Rose Buc - - - - - - - O.U. Swift 123
SALMAGUNDI: - - - - - - - Kate Burton 124
GERANIUMS IN WinTER - - Samuel H.Garekol 124
LEonARD Barron, Editor
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
ae 5
x
: VOLUME XXVIII, No. 4.
. Published ae 25c. a copy. Subscription, Two Bellas a Year.
Cuicaco: Peoples Gas Bldg. Boston: Tremont Bldg.
sf
Janada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65
COPYRIGHT, 1918, BY
Los ANGELES: Van Nuys Bidg. New York: 120 W. 32nd St.
F, N. DOUBLEDAY, President S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
HERBERT S. HOUSTON, RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
Vice-President Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
. under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879
ee
: Bey ya YS eas eee |
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
102
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
NoOvEMBER, 1918
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What could be finer than to pick basketfuls
of rich, ripe, delicious fruit from your own or-
chard—to have all the fine fruit you want for
eating, cooking and canning?
Aside from getting fruit for your own use,
your local markets will pay you good prices
for all the surplus fruit that you grow.
It will pay you to plan a home orchard now.
No matter how small or large a tract of
ground you have.
Our new free book
is just the help you need
It gives you the facts you want in planning
your fruit garden, in selecting the best kinds
and varieties, etc. Full of fruit information,
completely illustrated. Getit NOW. Mail
the coupon or write.
Mail this Coupon To-day..
——— Neosho Nurseries Co., Box 311, Neosho, Mo.
= z H Please send book as checked:
[_] Book of Fruit Trees and Plants Free.
ia “ Tyside Facts of Profitable Fruit Growing”
(70 cents znclosed).
a “How to Beautify Your Home Grounds”
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is so easy and costs so little to start a home
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And think of the commercial side, too. Fruit
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than the supply.
Neosho
Nurseries Co.
Neosho, Mo.
We sell direct from Nurseries only—because that is the best
method to insure satisfactory results for the planter. Our suc-
cess is based upon the success of our customers. Youarecertain
to get thrifty, quality stock from Neosho.
Successors to
Wm. P. Stark Nurseries
Neosho N
Qeosne Mo
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When in need of Reliable Nursery Stock remember that we have it.
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urseries CO
Name
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(Please give County and Street or R. F. D, number)
Catalogue for the asking.
THE BAY STATE NURSERIES
678 Adams Street North Abington, Mass.
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HE only way to keep your poultry strong and
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Fall Planting is best
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
The Garden Magazine
VoLume XXVIII
Flowers and Shell Shock!
ATRIOTIC men and women realize the
need for increased activity in bringing
comfort to our returned wounded heroes.
But few know how to go about lending a
helping hand to further the good work. We shall
dedicate the greater part of the editorial pages
of December GarDEN MacazinE to spreading the
facts about the mission of flowers in war times,
and to the “Say-it-with-Flowers’”’ movement.
Do you know that flowers really help to make
sick soldiers well?
Do you know that fragrant flowers may be as
a barometer in indigating the nearness of a
soldier’s recovery from shell shock?
Do you know that flowers are needed in our
base hospitals as much as any medicine?
Do you know what the florists of America
are doing in supplying flowers “behind the
scenes,” in their own modest way?
Do you know about the wonderful work of dis-
tributing these flowers by The National Leagu
for Woman’s Service? .
Many hitherto unrecognized potentialitie
repose within the delicately scented petals of
flowers. Why handicap these lovely messengers
of a fairer world with sentimental reasons and
apologies for why they should be grown?
Go into the hospitals and study their practical
value. Watch the effect of a bright bunch of
flowers on the faces of the patients. Let the
people arise as a solid unit in the demand for
flowers, more flowers, and sti/] more flowers,
until they are accorded their proper place in
the list of essentials. The December GarDEN
MacazineE will do its part to bring about this
thing.
Organization and Publicity
‘THE constructive value of organization and
the reserve force that is thus afforded to
meet any emergency that may develop has been
forcibly illustrated in the work of various garden
clubs in their relation to war activities. From
small, even obscure, beginnings, and more or less
as social factors in different communities, they
have gradually broadened out in their view point
and in their relationship to other interests.
Starting as obscure gatherings of a few garden
cranks, they have gradually grown into a power
of inspiration to thousands who hitherto re-
Reded oatdening as something more or less apart
rom themselves, an existant mystery into which
it was not their problem to delve too deeply.
All this has been changed. When the war
stirred up local interests it found the clubs al-
NOVEMBER, 1918
NuMBER 4
ready in being to be easily adaptable to national
service. The chief point was that the organiza-
tion existed, and, following the lines of indicated
necessity in various localities, they got busy and
did the obvious thing. They have encouraged
war gardens, community garden work, estab-
lished canning kitchens, operated dehydration
plants and in various other ways they made
their energies productive. When the Woman’s
Land Army of America was started the members
of the various garden clubs did much to help
along that movement.
Of course each club finds its own field of ac-
tivity; probably no two organizations can develop
to their fullest along identical lines. Perhaps the
one criticism that might be made of garden
clubs as individuals is a tendency to internal
secrecy and a shrinking from publicity. Of
course there are a few notable exceptions. One
of the most striking in the power of publicity
and the growing importance of the organization
in its community is possibly that of the St.
Thomas Horticultural Society in Canada. Ten
years ago it was a small introspective organiza-
tion but it had a far seeing leader in Dr. F. E.
Bennett; and with a capital of unlimited enthu-
siasm and only 125 members, it started out to do
things. Its subsequent career is a revelation
of the power of publicity in arousing the entire
city to gardening interest. It used the columns
of the local press in announcing its meetings, in-
viting the public to listen to free lectures by prom-
inent authorities; and in a few years it has built
up a capital of several thousands, increasing its
membership to over 1,000 enrolling ail the leading
citizens, both men and women, as active members.
Realizing that gardeners should read something
about gardening, and keep in touch with current
affairs if they wished to get the most out of their
own efforts, Dr. Bennett decided to carry a sub-
cription to a gardening periodical for every mem-
ber. THe Garpen Macazine was selected
and space was taken in the local papers to adver-
tise THe Garpen MacGazINE in conjunction
with the membership of the society.
In a recent letter, Dr. Bennett says that the
magazine is read as much for its advertisements
as for the reading matter. It believes in adver-
tising itself. That is why it carries an advertise-
ment of its own every day of the year in the daily
papers of its own home town. ‘The organization
believes in codperative work and purchases ad-
vertised goods on a cooperative plan.
This year, among other garden material and
supplies, the buying department of the St.
Thomas Horticultural Society purchased one
hundred thousand Dutch bulbs, thirty-five
thousand Gladiolus, twelve thousand Roses and
103
fifteen hundred Peonies besides thousands of
other plants, shrubs, etc., in variety.
Is St. Thomas, Ontario, so different from other
places where gardeners foregather, that its
methods are not in some degree adaptable
everywhere? Hardly! It is merely that the
opportunity has not been seized. We feel some
gratification in being part and parcel (although
it was entirely unknown to us for some time), of
the movement that means so much to the
horticulture and gardening of that one commun-
ity.
It would not be fair in this connection to omit
mention of the Garden Club of Ridgewood,
New Jersey, which has more than two hundred
members, all men, in which respect it is perhaps
unique. Ridgewood, New Jersey, is not a large
town. Its garden club is a live organization,
representing the entire purchasing power of the
gardens of the district. It also buys collectively.
Prodigious Totals
[- IS estimated by the National War Garden
Commission that this year’s value of the
food stuffs produced in emergency war gardens
has amounted to $525,000,000, the output in
round numbers of 5,250,000 individual plots.
This is an increase in the number of plots culti-
vated of about 51 per cent. as compared with
last year. The figures speak for themselves.
There is no need of saying anything more.
The Unheated Greenhouse
HROUGH our Readers’ Service and because
of the conservation of fuel come many in-
quiries about the possible operation of a green-
house without heat. In New England it is not
practical during the severe winter months owing
to the area of glass exposed without means of
protection from the outside elements. The out-
side temperature and that of the greenhouse at
night would be little different. A hotbed with
considerably less glass surface exposed can be
covered with mats, hay, or even leaves at night,
thus maintaining a growing temperature. Dur-
ing the winter months a hotbed would be more
successful than an unheated greenhouse.
Regarding spring and fall uses, however, there
are real possibilities. Quick maturing crops
such as radishes, spinach, cress, etc., may be
started, using manure liberally in the benches
to help retain the heat in case of light frosts.
Should frost catch them spray the plants with
cold water to thaw, and cover them to exclude
the early morning light. In the spring any of
the garden crops can be started in an unheated
104
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
NovEmMBeER, 1918
greenhouse as early as February 1 by using hot
manure in the same manner as in the hotbed.
One of our readers asks whether green food for
chickens can be grown in an unheated green-
house. Anything of this kind must have a grow-
ing temperature, the minimum forty degrees;
and it would be impossible to maintain such a
temperature in an unheated greenhouse. How-
ever, there is a solution to this problem in the
commonly used oats sprouter. This consists of
a series of perforated galvanized trays supported
by a framework with a drip-pan at the bottom
There is hardly any labor attached to the process
of raising green food for chickens with one of
these appliances. Simply cover the bottom of
the tray to the depth of one inch with oats for
sprouting and spray twice a day, or more if they
become dry. The drip-pan catches the water
that may possibly soak through the several
trays. No earth is needed. In a very few
days the oats will have sprouted to the height
of three or four inches, at which time they are
the most valuable as a green food. One square
inch is sufficient fora hen. It is advisable to fill
the trays at an interval of a day or two, thus
maintaining a continuous supply of fresh, green
food. Place the oats sprouter in front of a sunny
windowinthekitchen. Cellar air has not enough
life for the successful operation of the oats
sprouter. They can be purchased at any large
poultry store.
Some years ago an owner of a country estate
on Long Island spent considerable money in
trying to grow vegetables in an unheated green-
house. He had expert advice from engineers
who told him that by going deep enough with
the foundations and haying sufficient openings
in the lower part, he could secure heat from the
earth which was always warm at a certain dis-
tance down. The experiment proved to be a
complete failure.
Cotoneaster multiflora calocarpa.—After an-
other season’s observation this plant, growing
in the Arnold Arboretum at Jamaica Plain, has
demonstrated its unusual worth as a garden plant,
especially for a late summer display. Its fruit,
which ripened in August, was produced in such
enormous numbers as to weigh the lower branches
to the ground, and to make the shrub appear
from a distance like a great red ball. The fruit
began to color before the end of July and was
held a long time. This Cotoneaster has blue-
green leaves and white flowers in compact
clusters. The flowers stand well above the arch-
ing stems so that they make a good display.
It would be hard to find a more graceful shrub
Cotoneasters are valuable for their brilliant show of fruit.
or one which is more delightful in the way it
carries its flowers. It proved itself perfectly
hardy last winter. Another Cotoneaster, C.
soongarica, is fully equal in most respects to
the plant just described. It, too, made a won-
derful show of fruit this year. It has proven its
value, both as a spring and a late summer
shrub. Both plants will doubtless come to be
familiar in gardens all over the northern United
States.—E. I. F.
Tree-vaccination Worthiess—Claims that the
insertion in the bark of trees of capsules, con-
taining potassium cyanide and other substances
will kill scale on the trees or serve as a remedy
for any disease has led to a fine of $100 in the
Federal courts upon the makers of a “fertilizing
scale treatment,’ who pleaded guilty to the charge
of misbranding and adulteration in an action
brought under the Insecticide Act of 1910 at
the instance of the United States Department
of Agriculture in the Eastern District Court,
Pennsylvania. The department tested these
capsules for several years on fruit trees to deter-
mine whether their use had any deterrent effect
on scale and whether the material also actually
fertilized the trees as asserted by the makers;
and found that they did not kill scale and did
not fertilize the trees, but on the contrary, in-
jured the tree causing large cankers through
which rot fungi may enter and finally destroy
the tree.
Storming the Iris Foe’s Trenches.—Early in
1917 our Iris germanica began to show yellow
stalks, to decay at the crowns of the bulbs.
Pulling away a yellowed stalk, we found clinging
to its butt a big, yellowish, dirty, but very
efficient appearing grub. Examination of an
infected stalk showed that a moth had incised
it, depositing between the green layers, well
protected, her eggs, about $ inch in length.
The larvae from ‘these, hatching, had bored
straight down the stalks, growing as they gnawed,
on the bulb crowns, there to chew and chew.
One bulb hollowed out, they went to the next.
And so on. Clearly poisons were of no avail,
as the pest was covered all its life. What
was to be done? We solved it by cutting
out each gnawed bulb, exactly as one cuts
out apple tree borers. By being ruthless in
pulling yellowed stalks and by using the knife
freely on gnawed bulbs, we routed the foe.
Clean tilth helped. Air-slaked lime made the
cuts heal and wood ashes and soot helped to
make it unpleasant for the routed pests that we
missed when they crawled out to seek new pas-
C. multiflora calocarpa is shown here laden with white flowers.
The fruit becomes evident about midsummer
tures. We won. Now for something better
than cure—prevention: (1) Plant Iris only in
soil that has been cultivated at least two years.
None of ours on old soil were attacked. (2) In-
spect stalks each day and on the first sign of an
attack, cut, intelligently, but thoroughly. (3)
In fall see that each flower stem is off the bulb
crowns and burned before October 15th. “These
hollow tubes are handy lurking places for these
pests. (4) Lime the base of the germanica Irises.
(5) We found the Spanish, English, Persian, Siber-
ian, Japanese and native Iris (blue flag) immune.
(6) The pest, forcing us to fight it, so made us
put our Iris clumps in a thorough condition of
defense. Fighting one pest, we fought all.
The few germanicas we lost have been offset
by the betterment in all the other kinds, due to
finer defensive culture.—Estelle M. Gilbert,
Binghamton, N.Y. |
Handling Gladiolus Bulbs.—I would like to
interest you in my way of caring for Gladiolus
bulbs. The first ‘collecting of material is the
trying part. I have about 50 named varieties
and wish to keep each variety separate, as the
pleasure of knowing each so intimately as to
call each by its proper name —is one of the
pleasures of growing them. :I make two plantings
15 to 20 days apart for a succession of flowers,
for this about one hundred 5-lb. sugar bags are
required, one hundred copper wired three-inch
labels, and one hundred painted garden labels,
about ten inches in length, two of each of the
above for each variety. On the bottom of each
bag I wire a label fast and write the name of
variety plainly. When I dig the bulbs, cut off
the stalks to one and one half inches, drop into.
bag with the garden label, and tie the top of bag,
the increase (small bulblets) are secure. “There
is no dust or dirt while they are drying. Later,
when cured, trim off the top of old decay-
ing bulb and replace in bag. In this way
they are easy to handle and store, and in the
spring easy to sort out. One bag of each
variety for the first planting, using the garden
label for the ground. One-third or one-half
dozen of each variety makes a good number to
start with. The bags, labels, and garden labels,
do service year after year, and who can gainsay
that the “glory of the garden” is worthy of all
the care we can give.—WMrs. G. W. Bain, Nassau,
INGOs :
An Emergency Garden.—I want to tell about
a little garden I made this spring that has aided
me so much in feeding my family. My husband
raised potatoes, roasting ears, peas and beans
in the field but I wanted a kitchen garden all
my own. Just outside the yard at one side of
the house was a strip of ground that had once
been an alley, 25 x 120 ft., but for the last three
or four years it had been used for a calf pen.
Judging from the size of the weeds that grew
it was very rich. There were eight beds the
full length of it. In one of the beds I planted
a double row of onions early in March. The
same day I planted in another bed, lettuce, ra-
dishes, mustard, turnips and spinach. And in
still another bed I planted double rows of English
peas, some of them dwarf. The first of April I
planted in the fourth bed, beets, carrots, okra
and a few early bush beans. The middle of
April, tomatoes, squashes and more bush beans
were set out. Elsewhere I planted watermelons.
Before long I found that ground mice had eaten
all my melon seed so I planted them over, putting
in one tablespoon of sulphur in each hill and the
mice did not molest them any more. When I
worked my onions the last time I set cabbage
plants between the rows. I also planted a hill
of Crowder peas between each hill of watermelons.
I have enjoyed the fruits of my labor, having
had all kinds of vegetables and watermelons.
There is not a foot of my garden idle, all is
‘ NovEMBER, 1918
4
PANS
This is evidence of the fruiting proclivities of La France ever-
bearing raspberry. About one-sixth actual size
planted in something. As soon as one vegetable
is out another is planted. I keep the green
worms from eating my cabbage by sprinkling
them while the dew is on, with lime in which I
put a little sulphur. Never will I do without a
_ garden again for it has been a great pleasure to
me and a great benefit to the whole family.—
_ Mrs. S. E. Bandy, Jacksonville, Ark.
“Speaking of Raspberries.”—The article “Rasp-
berries for Where You Live” in the October
_ issue leads me to feel that you might be interested
in the new everlasting La France.
The history
of this variety goes back some twelve years
when a wealthy private estate owner imported
a collection of fine French raspberries, all of
which from a combination of accidents succumbed
to the climate. While clearing the old planta-
tion, a number of seedlings were discovered,
_ the plant withstood twenty below zero.
of which this is one. The foliage first drew our
attention, it is so large and heavy. Last winter
With its
robust constitution it combines a bearing power
the like of which I donot recall. Each plant will
_ make several new shoots during the season which
will bear fruit the first year. The berries are
almost twice the size of other everlasting kinds of
fine aroma. The fact that the plant is almost
free of thorns should make this raspberry a
welcome addition to the home garden.—H.
_ John Scheepers, N.Y.
—We can vouch for the high quality of the
fruit and the large size too, having seen a number
of plants in full bearing the second week in Oct-
ober. It was noted that the berries were slightly
fy bitter if not dead ripe.—Ed.
impunity the effort is worth while.
done by the use of strychnine. Three methods
are recommended. In one the food is coated
alkaloid of strychnine, in another the food is
es airs
4 with starch or flour paste containing powdered
¥
soaked in a sulphate of strychnine solution,
_ and in the third it is mixed with starch containing
_ the alkaloid and is then compressed into squares
of biscuits.
Grain soaked in sulphate of strych-
nine solution is very bitter an
is not recom-
mended except when the bait is first soaked in
tallow to render it waterproof. A sulphate
solution is valuable in preparing baits for rabbits
and meadow mice. Starch or flour paste con-
taining powdered alkaloid is recommended, be-
cause baits coated with these materials can be
prepared much more easily than those soaked
in sulphate solution, because animals carrying
coated baits are often killed simply by the
absorption of part of the poison directly into
the blood through the mucous membranes of
the mouth and cheek pouches, and because the
centres of kernels of coated grain remain sweet
_ and are more freely eaten than those made bitter
all through by soaking in sulphate solution.
To make flour-coated wheat use: wheat, 20 qts.,
strychnine alkaloid (powdered), 4 oz., flour,
4 cup, water, 1 qt. Mix the flour with a cup of
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
cold water to form a thick, smooth, paste, and
then stir in the remaining 13 pints of cold water.
Heat to boiling point over a slow fire, stirring
constantly. Then remove from the stove, mix in
the powdered strychnine alkaloid, and mix with
the wheat until every kernel is evenly coated.
Spread and dry the preparation, and it may
either be used at once or kept indefinitely.—H.
A Greenhouse Without Fuel—We have a
little greenhouse 8 ft. square and 6 ft. high
which supplies us with plenty of blooming plants
for our house all winter and provides from 10
to 20 dozen Geraniums, Marguerites, Salvias, etc.,
for summer bedding. This winter it is to supply
us with some vegetables too:—lettuce, tomatoes,
watercress, grown as Mr. L. Bastin told about
in the August Garpen Macazine. Though
most of our days are sunny we get cold nights,
sometimes several nights in succession zero,
occasionally 10° to 15° below and as many as
3 or 4 days without sunshine. Still it has never
been necessary to artificially heat this little
greenhouse made by excavating in a very steep
bank close to our house and facing south. ‘This
was lined 6 in. thick with concrete. In the
opening or front there is a concrete wall 2 ft.
high. All the rest of the front is glass, sloping
at an angle of 45° to meet the roof.
In the
In this little greenhouse without any fuel summer bedding
plants are carried through the winter
concrete floor are tracks running north and
south made of % in. gas pipe. The benches
are fixed on a stand with groved pulleys for wheels
which run back and forth on these tracks.
These benches are terraced like wide stair steps,
so arranged that when the stand is wheeled
forward all the plants are brought near the slop-
ing glass front. Each bench has about 12 sq.
ft. of surface, making on the three a total of
36 sq. ft. Thus almost the whole contents of the
greenhouse are easily moved close to the glass
front for sunshine and back to the warmed air
space at the back at night. The warmth re-
ceived from the sun through the glass front during
the day is absorbed by and stored in the concrete
walls and ceiling which is all back in the hillside
like a cave. The concrete in turn gives back
this heat to keep the plants warm at night.
Last winter I’ kept a thermometer directly
under the glass and I have never seen it lower
than 42°. Of course this is lower than the air
surrounding the plants. We cover the glass with
a heavy canvas on cold nights. A piece of stove
pipe through the concrete roof serves as a venti-
lator. If you want a greenhouse and you live in
a sunny climate do not hesitate because of fuel
shortage!—K. N. Marriage, Colorado Springs.
Another Successful Vegetable Garden.—
I have just read an article by Mr. R. C. Allen of
Morgantown, W. Virginia, in THE GarpeNn Mac-
AZINE for October last year, in which he gives re-
cord of a garden 60x 75 which produced $96 worth
of vegetables. This spring (February) 1 burned
off a broom sedge and white clover field, which
had not been cultivated for seven years. On one
105
portion 50 x 75 ft., I used one load of barnyard
manure and $5.68 worth of seeds during the
entire season, during which time I sold $21.64
worth of vegetables; canned 326 quarts of soup
mixture, tomatoes, beets, pickles, and beans
at an approximate value of 20 cents a quart
or $67.20 for the whole. The vegetables used
at home bring the entire amount produced during
the season to $155.19, with seeds and fertilizer
to be deducted. The garden was plowed and
disked by the mill company for whom I work;
but every particle of labor of cultivation I did
myself when off duty. Three crops were pro-
duced during the season. ‘The first was English
peas, mustard, onion, kale, lettuce; followed by
beans, tomatoes, okra, beets, corn and popcorn.
When the popcorn was harvested English peas
went in.the place. Already the third crop con-
sisting of 150 heads of Big Boston lettuce, kale,
onions, mustard, is maturing. Two raised
beds, 2 x 75 ft., of white mustard and spin-
ach, insure late winter and early spring
salad. There are intercrops of Danish Ballhead
cabbage and brussels sprouts. I have kept a
government record book of these.—Linda Cle-
ment, Lexington, N. C.
Oxytropis——Having received so many helpful
suggestions from THE Garpen Macazine, I
venture to offer one or two, and to also ask for
more help. A correspondent in the July maga-
zine asks where Oxytropis may be obtained.
In reply I would say that Dreer of Philadelphia
catalogues it.—G. H.S., N. J.
Fothergilla—Years ago an attractive shrub
known as Fothergilla was not uncommon in
gardens. ‘Then it practically disappeared and
was not seen for a long time. A few years ago
the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain resur-
rected this plant and again put it into cultivation.
It is to be hoped that they will become common
subjects in American gardens as they are highly
ornamental. The Fothergillas are related to
the Witch Hazels, the foliage having a similar
appearance. It also has the Witch Hazel’s
habit of putting on warm shades of red and orange
in the fall, making it a very decorative shrub
at that season. The small white flowers grow
in terminal clusters which are almost as round as
aball. The plants are upright in growth, sturdy
in appearance, and are perfectly hardy. They
grow fairly tall, and possess a greater beauty than
many of the shrubs more generally seen.—E. I. F.
ope
Fothergilla major has the best pyramidal habit of all the Dwarf
Alders. Its conspicuous flowers are white
we ths
Aiinsenaies
Vase of Moss Aztec pot-
tery, of rich red tones upon
which are superimposed
imitations of apparent
mossy deposits
The individual flower
holder of the ‘“‘candle-
stick’’ typeso effectively
used in displaying single
flowers
HERE are no
more beautiful cut
flowers than those
culled from one’s
own garden. As seen
growing in the ground in
theirnatural glory of form
and brilliant coloring,
they have far more than
repaid their slight cost
and care. For the decor-
ation of the house; add-
ing a touch of color here
and there; always a vase
on the dining table, a few
in the guest room, a bowl
of blossoms in the hall,
on the library table, etc.,
there is at all times in a
well planted garden a
storehouse to draw from,
each week something new, from the Snowdrops
and Crocuses until the last of the Chrysanthe-
mums just before the winter blanket of snow,
and even then the late berried shrubs.
While the chilly blasts of winter are still in the
air it is possible to enjoy some of the spring shrub-
bery, branches of berried and evergreen shrubs
will give gaiety indoors in December. Pussy
Willow sprays if cut as early as January 15th
placed in water in a warm room, will swell their
buds in about two weeks. The brown sheaf
which covers the bud should then be removed,
when the sprays from end to end will be found
covered with their beautiful silken tufts. When
they have attained full size, they will last much
longer without water,
which if allowed to
remain encourages the
buds to open and shed
their yellow pollen
which is objection-
able.
The Forsythia is
another shrub, which
forces well, opening
its lovely yellow blos-
soms in from two to
three weeks in vases
of water in the house
from January 15th on.
Magnolias will also
yield to such treat-
ment, as will apple,
cherry, pear, and
peach blossoms, these
latter fruit buds
should be cut about
February 15thand lat-
er for the best results.
Japanese vases are ideal for the arrangement of
the shrubbery. The Japanese never crowd their
floral arrangements. Just a well flowered branch
or two is considered sufficient. Where a color
effect is desired, a generous bowl well filled, but
The soft tints and sub-
dued colors of this vase blend
well into the furnishings
Flower Holders and
Flower Arrangement
Making the most of the Decorative Value of the Gar-
dens Products—Suitable Holders and Vases
ROBERT Kina
The alternat-
ing lines of clear
and engraved
glass upona
black glass base
are the fea- bowl is had in
tures of this either blue or
bowl yellow glass
Equally adapt-
able for display-
ing fruits or
flowers, this
The Japanese bamboo handle basket is admirably adapted
to display quantities of coarser flowers, and blends especially
well with those of yellowish or brown tones
A few flowers dis-
played individually
is not only an econ-
omy of material, but
exhibits their char-
acter to the fullest
Japanese flower
bowl with movable
glass flower block
to hold stems gives
scope toa variety of
arrangements. Bird
and butterfly orna-
ments adorn theside
of the bowl
not crowded, will be found very decorative. When
the spring bulbs are in, Daffodils and Tulips are
especially valuable for the dining room. The
low shallow bowls with various styles of perfor-
ated holders are now much in vogue, very pretty
106
Richly colored jardiniers
of this type are useful for
holding large ferns and
palms in pods
_ Another type of
individual flower
holder of Moss Aztec ware, so
named because of its rich
“ancient’’ style
effects being possible.
Natural-looking artificial
butterflies and _ birds,
stuck on the edges of the
bowl as if just alighting
or hovering over the
flowers, give a pleasing
touch of nature. These
can be adjusted and
changed as desired,
Shrubbery and the early
Rambler Roses provide
sprays of grace and color
that arrange beautifully.
KEEPING CUT FLOWERS
FRESH
_. An important feature
in the use of garden
flowers is that before be-
) ing placed in vases they
should remain over night with stems well im-
mersed in water in a cool place free from draughts.
If this is not possible then a similar treatment
for a couple of hours will be of. great benefit.
The object of this is to get the stems and flowers
filled with water. When freshly cut flowers
are placed at once in a warm room or in a posi-
tion subject to draughts, their natural moisture
is evaporated faster than they can take it up, but
when prepared as suggested, they open out grad-
ually and mature as on the plants.
When flowers of almost any kind have been
filled with water as above described, they will
continue to develop even if their stems are not
immersed for more than aninch in water.
This type of vase is adap-
ted to displaying the dain-
tier flowers of the daisy type
TYPES OF HOLDERS
Following after the
Japanese a number of
the Art potteries of
this country are mak-
ing a specialty of high
and low vases and
bowls with figure
holders and perfora-
ted blocks especially
adapted to the artis-
tic arrangement of
cut flowers.
The tall narrow
vase into which are
crowded a dozen
Roses is now relegated
tothe shelf. The low
bowl with the various
movable perforated
block centres will per-
mit the arrangement
of the same number
of flowers and in such a way that their beautiful
foliage sets off the buds to greater advantage.
A beautiful effect with a generous sized shallow
bowl, is to place the holder at one side, fill with
Roses and then break two or three in various
SS
NovEMBeER, 1918
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
107
stages of devel-
opment but fairly
well open and
float them on the
surface. One or
two with stems
in the water and
buds just over
the edge give a
generous touch.
In all arrange-
ments of cut
flowers, there
must as in a
picture, be fore-
ground, so as to
get perspective.
Some should be
high and others
low, the opening
buds and spikes
elevated while
the fuller flower
For the top-heavy Dafto-
dils, select a bottom-
heavy bottle-shaped
holder
The Japanese holder in
center of white porce-
lain bowl is ideal for
staging Sweet Peas
slender vase in
which is placed a
generous bunch
of the _ largest
stemmed flowers
forms the centre.
Pink is prefera-
ble. Five or six
low vases (small
rose bowls with
contracted open-
ings are best) are
placed at equal
distances in a cir-
cle six inches in
from the plate
line. Fill each
bowl with medi-
umlengthsprays,
then make a
curved spraying
on the cloth from
the inside of one
blossoms make
the background.
The arrangement in a vase of a number of
Peonies, for example, can be done quickly and
quite artistically by simply laying the flowers
together at the stem ends. Generally they vary
in length but if all are the same, cut from four to
six inches off the stems’of the most open. Place
them all together in the vase and the mass will
fall gracefully apart, the larger flowers being
considerably below the buds.
Peonies should not be placed subject to a
draught, or they will soon wither away. There
are many flowers of the garden with soft spongy
foliage, Heliotrope is one, which fouls the water
almost before the day is out. Asters and Chry-
santhemums will scarcely stand in water over
night without an offensive odor. It is of course
advisable to change the water every day, but if a
spray or two from a dashing bottle, with ten parts
of water and one of formaldehyde is used in every
jar or vase, the water will remain sweet for sev-
eral days as the formaldehyde prevents fermen-
tation.
COLOR HARMONIES
Color combinations should be studied as many
pretty effects are possible. The light blue vase
or bowl filled with pink Roses, Snapdragons,
Roses feel most at home in the
straight stem glass or silver
vase, displaying the individ-
ual beauty of each spec-
imen
Asters, is an example. Marigolds with purple
Iris or dark blue Larkspur are effective.
A shallow bowl filled with short stemmed
flowers from the rock garden may contain all
the colors of the rainbow—a harlequin effect
and yet be in excellent taste.
In the fall, Pompon Chrysanthemums from
the borders come in a great variety of colors
but any three or more arrange together without
discord.
When the Sweet Peas are available they are
especially favored for the table. They can be
arranged with good effect in the shallow bowls
with perforated holders. A little of their foliage
is a great addition. For a luncheon table a tall
bowl to the out-
side of another
starting with one spray and some green and
widening out to look as if the flowers were
falling out of the rear bowl. The effect is an
irregular wreath and quite pleasing. At Holly-
hock time, and later for the Golden Glow, the
blue umbrella jar makes a good vase for these
long stemmed flowers.
Wall pocket vases are effective in many places
and bamboo rods pierced with several openings
having pockets lined with zinc water receptacles,
are used alongside the mirror or against the wall
where such a decorative effect is desired. Such
accessories to the garden indoors will appeal to
those who are searching for useful gifts in the
coming holiday season.
Wet-Blanketing the Weeds—In a very wet
season keeping down the weeds is a difficult prop-
osition, so much so that hoeing doesn’t seem to
disturb them perceptibly; most of them will keep
right on growing. The most effective way I
found, among the corn, beans, tomatoes, etc.,
was to turn everything top side down with the
spading fork. This left a fresh, clean surface
with the weeds all buried where they would
soon rot.—F. H. V. Ridgewood, N. J.
A new type of Rockwood Porcelain in tints of hitherto unattained daintiness. The subdued tones blend well with any color in flowers, though the choice of tints in the porcelain is wide enough to
make appropriate matching easy
While We Prune the Orchar
What to Look for as We Ply the Saw and Knife to Reduce the Insect Pest of Next Year.
HE business of autumn is over. Fruit
and vegetable are stowed away in glass
jar or box of sand, each according to its
need. The garden plot has received its
late plowing. The winter preparations, as neces-
sary to man as to squirrel or field mouse, are
completed. With a feeling of relief we look
ahead to a lull in the activities of country life
between now and the impending rush of spring
duties. The peace of winter is with us and a
quiet sense of well earned rest steals over us.
Relief? Yes, while we catch our breath. But
a bit later we miss the outdoor and a touch of
uneasiness is upon us. Is our peace
indeed secure? If not it is worth
fighting for, be it horticultural or
any other honest sort.
The woodpecker is tapping in the
orchard and cheerily from the leafless
boughs a bird with a black cap calls,
“Chick dee dee, dee dee, dee dee!’ ’
Our staunch allies! They know the
spot for a winter campaign and what
slacker seats himself by the open fire
with idle book while sturdy birds pro-
claim that joy as well as duty are to
be found in the frosty air with its
stimulant for both mind and body?
O OUT come ladder and tools and
we prune the orchard. Wehave
been overshadowed, perhaps, by gen-
eral troubles and personal worries
but, for the time being, the winds
blow such clouds where they list
and we feel fit for the task that is
also a pleasure. The ripping voice
of the saw and the clip of the prun-
ing hook reply to chickadee and woodpecker,—
a strange quartet making appropriate music of
the hour.
With a proud sense of being judicious we
select the branches that must fall if we shape
the tree for grace as well as strength and have in
mind the proper distribution of sunshine among
summer leafiness of boughs.
But all the time we know that it is not simply
remodeling the orchard that we are about. ‘The
side issues of that operation are no less important
than what we speak of as the main item and it is
a wasteful person who neglects the by-product
of any enterprise.
With eyes alert we glance up and along the
branches and with a smile we recognize, in the
large gray-brown object securely woven to the
under side of a twig, the cocoon of the cecropia
moth. Destroy that? Well, not while there
are any kiddies, young or old, in the house.
We'll take that treasure box of snuggly woven
silk in to the warmth. Later on some day we
shall hear from inside it the sound as of a mouse
nibbling and know that a newly hatched moth
The beautiful creature that emerges from the cecropia cocoon, half natural size
to right: (a) antique tussock moth not protected ;
a common pest; (c) egg rings from which orchard tent caterpillers hatch
Can Be Gathered In.
has broken the pupal cell and is making its way
out through the walls of its prison. Have you
ever tried to tear one of these tough structures
with your strong fingers and wondered how so
frail a thing as a moth succeeds in making its
escape? On each shoulder it wears a tiny sharp
edged tool and with these it cuts an opening
through the enveloping fibers. ~Tis worth the
task of a day’s pruning alone to win the pleasure
of watching that wonderful creature emerge from
its winter nest and cling by its downy legs while
its soft limp miniature wings increase in size. The
veins in them are swollen with an amber fluid
Now is 2 convenient time to gather up the eee masses on fruit and other trees. From left
y covering; (b) ring of forest tent caterpillar,
which rushes into them in the process of rapid
growth. Even as you watch you can see the
wings expand, the color pattern spreading its
area, the four small wabbly flaps become four
broad wings which hang quiet, except for an
occasional shift, while the moth bides the night
time for its first flight.
No, do not destroy the cocoon of the cecropia
moth unless you have become so inured to the
sight of beauty that you have no further need of
seeing colors that the richest oriental rugs or
pan yelvets can not rival.
Brown-Tails in Folded Leaves
But what is that swinging from the tip
of the branch? A few crumpled leaves
woven together and bound to the twig by silken
strands. Another cocoon? We cut into the
gray silk and find within soft lined cells packed
with tiny caterpillars. Brown-tails! ‘These trees
were neglected last August or an arsenical spray
would have quieted those larvae before they
spun their cosy hibernaculum. Marvelous that
they can withstand the winter temperature, these
caterpillars still so young
that they measure only
about one fourth of an inch
in length. They are well
provided by nature for their
struggle for existence, fit to
survive if the measure of
their own needs only is to be
considered. Yet it 1s no per-
verted appeal to the law of
necessity we make when we
say the brown-tail must die.
A threat against our food
supply, a foe to our physical
comfort, a menace even to
life, swings from the tip of
the apple bough. They are
from one hundred to three
108
EDITH M. PATCH
Entomologist, Univ. of Maine
Some Winter Shelters that
hundred strong within that single silken fort for
they pack themselves tightly when they spin the
sufhcient barrier between themand thewinterday.
Yes, on two scores this hunnish enemy must die,
its greedy appetite, dormant just now, must be
checked before it revives to bring disaster to
the unfolding leaves next spring; and the poison
barbs hidden among its hairs must not be given
an opportunity to scatter broadcast the affliction
that follows wherever the moulted skins of these
dangerous pests may chance to blow.
Then clip off that winter-nest and throw it into
flames,—what could be simpler than that?
Well, in these complicated days few
matters can be settled so directly.
We remember, before that “‘hiberna-
~ culum” is destroyed, that the Goy-
ernment to which we pay taxes has
spent a deal of money importing,
rearing, establishing, and liberating
parasites to prey upon the caterpil-
lars of the brown-tail moth, and more
than one species of these parasites
seek shelter in the firmly woven nest
of their victim for an over-wintering
home. They are thus handy by when —
the caterpillars feed in the’ spring
and grow to a proper size to be
killed.
HUS it is if we burn the winter
nest of the brown-tail we are
likely to destroy some of the best of
our allies. So we gather the nests
and keep them in an old keg until
the parasites thaw out in the spring
and take wing. In order that the
caterpillars do not escape, we apply
a band of sticky “tree tanglefoot”” around the
keg. Why goto more trouble liberating parasites
than it is to spray the orchard in August or to
gather and burn the winter-nests at pruning
time? We might, perhaps, ask this question if
the brown-tail was confined to apple trees, for,
serious as the pest is, it is not difficult of control
under orchard conditions. But, as we know, the
caterpillar progeny of this moth accepts a range
of forty and more trees and shrubs for their
menu. ‘Thus, in infested areas, Rose and other
bushes and certain shade trees on home grounds
and in parks, Wild Cherry tangles in neglected
corners, the hardwood groves about summer
resorts, and the forests themselves,—all stand
helpless before a small moth with snow white
wings and a tail tipped with a plush brush of
beautiful golden brown. :
So, though we may care for our orchards with
spray and pruning shears, it is to the parasites
we must look in large measure for relief in forest
areas and well they deserve the encouragement
of individual orchardists as well as of the Goy-
ernment.
This is the tough cocoon of the cecropia moth
1918
NovEMBER,
The white marked tussock moth egg mass is distinguished by
the frothy covering
And while we pause to express our thanks to
the minute allies with transparent wings, the
tap of woodpecker and challenge of chickadee
remind us that an army with feathered wings
is also in reserve. Surely the hospitality of the
orchard is due them and with a real: sense of
shame we remember that we have not put out
the winter fare of suet. ;
Well, that shall be attended to as soon as the
orchard is pruned and we resolve also that the
New Year shall find us busy planning for bird
houses with cat-proof shelves, for the anti-
caterpillar army must have suitable camping
grounds!
Men have but begun to use wings in battle,
though in our behalf bird and beneficial insect
have waged a war through the centuries that has
‘meant a balance of power without which we
should have had no more trees in the world than
the huns have left in the areas they have
devastated. For borers work within and scale
insects work without the bark while caterpillars
strip the foliage; and what saved vegetation for
us so that to-day we have any orchard to protect
with pruning hook and sprays?
It is well enough for us to think about these
matters while we prune. It gives our own
efforts an added force to feel that we are not alone
in our movement for better fruit. What though
bird and beneficial insect be as selfish in their
aims as we? They toil only for their own food
as we for ours but their help is none the less
effective for all that. That their methods are
based on fundamental needs is indeed a guarantee
that they have been evolved along stable lines.
Where the Tussock Moth Hides
AFTER a bit of some such orchard philos-
ophy our attention drifts to four objects
attached to the twigs. We have already:collected
the cocoon of one species of moth in which the
pupa slept, the hibernaculum of another which
sheltered the dormant caterpillars awaiting the
reveille of spring, and now we find egg masses
of four other species challenging us. For in
three different stages do the various moths of
the orchard winter,—pupa and partly grown
caterpillar and egg. And they all withstand
below zero temperature though it surprises us
every time we think how life, seemingly so
delicate, can winter exposed to elements which
hold sturdy trees dormant for months. Well,
the insects lie dormant, too, in one stage or
another; and it behoves us to be alert while they
sleep if we are to take the initiative in the
campaign.
The four egg masses before us now are of
interest as they show the close resemblance of
related species and yet the distinctive characters
due to specific differences.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
in the Orchard and How to
Winter Lodgers
Destroy Them
Winter contact sprays, when applied for scales, soak into
cocoons and kill the pupae. Spring poison sprays are
effective. Burn infested branches which are pruned off.
FRuit-TREE LEAF-ROLLER. Egg-mass on bark in winter.
Io per cent. kerosene early in spring while tree is dormant.
OBLIQUE-BANDED LEAF-ROLLER. Eggs on bark in winter
in flat patches. Same treatment as Fruit-TREE LEAF-
ROLLER.
Lear-cruMPLER. Hibernating quarters of larvae among
crumpled leaves. Pick and burn at pruning time.
Trumpet Lear-MINER. Hihernates in
Destroyed by late fall plowing.
REsPLBNDENT SHIELD-BEARER. Hibernates in queer, tiny,
oval, seed-like, yellowish cocoons attached to bark. If
very abundant, scraping trees is practicable.
WHITE-MARKED TussockK Mors. White froth-covered
egg-masses on empty cocoon in winter. Gather and burn.
Antique TussocK motu. White uncovered egg-mass on
empty cocoon, in winter. Gather and burn.
Bup Morn. Over wintering in brown, dead leaves present
at tip of twig. When pruning pick off and burn these
nests.
Cicar CasE-BEARER. Hibernates as a partly grown larva
in tiny, curved, winter cases on twigs. Watch for these
while pruning and be ready with arsenical sprays in
spring.
Pistot CAsE-BEARER.
on smaller branches.
CAasE-BEARER.
Risppep Cocoon-MAKER OF THE APPLE. The white ribbed
cocoons in which this insect hibernates, though small, are
conspicuous against the branches.
Appte LeEAF-sEWER. Rarely troublesome in cultivated
orchard as the hibernating caterpillars are plowed under
with the fallen leaves.
AprLe Bup-sorer. Caterpillar hibernates in burrow.
Clinging leaf petioles an indication of infested twigs the
terminals of which should be pruned off and burned.
Orrentat Morn. Hibernates in tough, smooth, oval co-
coons attached to bark of branches near axil. Destroy
cocoons at pruning time.
Fatt Wexsworm. Hibernates in thin cocoon in crevice
of bark or under rubbish near surface of ground. Arsen-
ical sprays in spring.
TENT-CATERPILLARS. Watch for egg-rings while pruning.
Remove and burn. Arsenical sprays in spring.
Girsy Morn. Creosote egg-masses in winter. Arsenical
sprays in spring.
Brown-Tait Mora. Remove winter-nests while pruning.
Arsenical sprays in August.
fallen leaves.
Hibernates in pistol-shaped cases
Same treatment as for Cicar
Beetles
Prune off and burn
Eye-spottep AppLe-Twic Borer.
infested twigs before April.
Curcutios or WEEVILS. Three species hibernate in rub-
bish in or about orchard. Clean orcharding is the best
way to avoid tempting them to be present.
TWIG-GIRDLER AND Twic Pruner. Larvae hibernate in
fallen branches. Gather and burn in autumn, winter
or early spring.
Fiat-HEADED AppLE-TREE Borer. Larva excavates an
irregular channel extending into sapwood under bark.
Severely infested young trees should be removed and
burned before May.
RouND-HEADED APPLE-TREE BorER AND SpoTTeD AppLE-
TREE Borer. Where their “saw-dust holes’? are ob-
served, spear larva with wire. Apply alkaline washes
May to July.
Crickets, etc.
Snowy TREE-CRICKET.
wounds.
Eggs in punctures in bark of
Mites
Lear BuisTer-MITE. The adult mites pass the winter
hidden beneath second or third bud scales. Dormant
contact sprays, as for scale-insects, give excellent results.
Crover Mite. Over winter on apple bark in masses of
innumerable tiny round reddish eggs. Color renders
them noticeable. Spray, while tree is dormant, with
lime-sulphur.
Aphids, Scales, and Leaf-hoppers
Apuips. Several species pass the winter as black shining
eggs on apple twigs. Burn infested twigs which are
pruned off. Order contact sprays for the spring cam-
aign.
SAN Jos= Scare. Small, round concentric. Contact
spray (lime-sulphur preparations or oils) while tree is
dormant.
Oyster. SHert Scare. Shaped like miniature curved
oyster shell. Dormant spray with lime sulphur. June
spray with “‘Black Leaf 4o.”’
HER SCALES. ‘Treat as for San José.
AppLe Lear-Hopper. Winter eggs, in bark of preferably
two year-old wood. Indicated by small blister-like
swellings. Spring treatment with contact sprays for
nymphs.
Burraro Tree-Hoprer. Egg scars noticed at pruning
time in uncultivated orchards. Many can be removed
and burned. Cultivate orchard. Burn bordering low
vegetation in spring.
The white eggs of the antique tussock moth are
spread upon the outside of the empty gray
cocoon. Each egg is separately placed and
clearly defined against the background. It is
here the mother moth laid them when she
crept from the cocoon, a wingless bag of eggs
awaiting the advent of her winged mate, after
which there was nothing else in life except the
deposition of those precious eggs. A brief and
109
In this silken chamber woven with the dead leaves lurks the
brown tail moth
meagre existence but it fulfilled its function and
the species continues. If we do not gather these
eggs, from each (unless it be touched by parasitic
wand) will hatch in the spring a grotesque
little figure which will feed upon our leaves.
Its appearance can not fail to attract our atten-
tion and call forth our admiring wonder even
though we make haste for the arsenical spray.
For this invader of our orchard wears a glistening
black helmet decorated on each side by a brush
of tufted black bristles. A similar bunch adorns
its tail while on its back a row of four tufts
like soft paint brushes adds to the strange appear-
ance of this remarkable though unwelcome
orchard guest.
When full fed (the arsenicals being neglected
by careless orchardist) these caterpillars strip
off their masquerade attire and weave their
hairs into the fabric of the cocoon that hangs
upon the tree all winter. Unlike the cocoon of
the cecropia moth, however, this cocoon hangs
empty since the moth emerges from the inside
and spreads her eggs on the outside before winter
sets in. Such conspicuous egg masses make the
gathering of this species easy during pruning
time. Some of them do not have eggs upon them,
a circumstance due to one of two reasons.
Either the inhabitant was a male in which case
the cocoon is empty and harmless, or the pupa
has been attacked by a parasitic insect which
retains the shelter its victim spun, in which case
the cocoon is occupied by a friend. So there
is a double reason for leaving cocoons of the
tussock moth upon the tree unless they are
covered by eggs. At best it would be a waste
of time and at worst we should kill an ally napping
until the spring drive.
The similar cocoon near by is plastered over
with what looks to be a mass of brittle white
froth. That is the cocoon of the white-marked
tussock, the wingless female of which emerges,
like her cousin, only to mate and deposit her
eggs. This moth, however, pours out a white
protective covering over her eggs as she lays
them and this substance gives an easy basis for
distinguishing the two species in the egg stage.
In the caterpillar stage they are as readily
told apart for the larva of the white-marked
tussock wears a scarlet helmet which renders
its appearance even more grotesque than that
of its black headed relative.
Army Worms in Rest Quarters
"Two glistening brown rings encircling a
twig. The one with the more tapering
ends is that of the orchard tent caterpillar. These
eggs, if left upon the tree by us and if not de-
stroyed by bird or parasite, will hatch into one
of the colonies which build silken tents in the
forks of the branches, tiny and filmy at first,
110
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
NovEMBER, 1918
later to become the large untidy frass-filled
shelters of the numerous family of caterpillars.
For it is here they rest on cold and rainy days
and at night when not feeding or while casting
their skins at molting time.
The other egg mass with the abrupter ends is
that of the forest tent caterpillar. This name is
a misnomer for unlike its twin species it builds
no sheltering tent and is so called merely because
of the habit of its relative. It is, therefore,
sometimes called the tentless caterpillar and
with good reason. To be sure it spins, as does
its cousin, but only a carpet for its feet instead
of a covering for its body. When the light
falls right you can see the white trails of these
tentless caterpillars shimmering against the bark
of the trunk and branches and along this silken
path theyretrace their steps to gather in company
at molting time for though they wander apart
they are gregarious by instinct at these critical
periods in their growth and they can be found in
congregations while waiting to cast aside the
old raiment which displays the fresh garment
underneath.
The two egg masses are much alike and so are
the caterpillars which hatch from them. Both
are golden brown with creamy white lines and
decorations of pale blue. If we saw either singly
and rarely this color scheme would be more
admired but the large colonies are messy in
effect and the individuals have a habit of dropping
carelessly to our neck or clothing which is more
startling than pleasing.
The first mentioned species has a continuous
line of creamy white running lengthwise along
the middle of the back and the other has instead
a row of broken marks of the same color.
Like egg mass and caterpillar, the cocoons
are much alike but still distinctive enough to
be told apart; the latter species having a much
more filmy outer cocoon about the snug yellow
frescoed inner one. If the children are wondering
what to do, by the way, set them to gathering a
few of these caterpillars at cocoon time and
bid them find out how the caterpillar paints his
cocoon yellow. Tis worth watching yourself,
if you have not in your own youth been fortunate
enough to satisfy your curiosity on this point.
A strange brush these larvae use and a paint as
well adapted to their needs as the no more
beautiful soft fresque tints that cover the ceilings
a your own domicile, however wealthy you may
e.
The two moths which emerge from the well
built and well painted cocoons are much alike
in color tone and general appearance yet different
enough to be told apart.
Both species are common orchard pests and
both can be controlled by a spring spray though
it is well enough to clip the brown egg rings
when you find them glistening in the sun at
pruning time.
THUS one by one we read the signs of the
times in the orchard. We watch for
moth, egg, or caterpillar hibernaculum, or cocoon.
We notice whether the scale insects on the twigs
are abundant and what species are present. We
look for the glistening black eggs of the various
species of aphids which winter on the apple and
take account of the reddish masses of minute
eggs of the clover mite, a frequent invader of
orchards.
Some of these pests call for treatment while the
tree is dormant and enter into the winter’s
programme of every successful orchardist. Other
insects we note in passing and decide whether
nicotine sulphate would not as well be added
to our list of orders as the arsenate of lead we
always keep on hand for the great spring drive.
Altogether we take the ladder and pruning
tools back to the shed with the realization that
it was to no idle errand the call of woodpecker and
chickadee wakened us from our idle doze before
the tempting hearth. We await the spring
now with a feeling of duty performed and in-
formation gathered which makes us indeed
masters of the situation. Complacently, we
open the book at the mark which kept our place
while we pruned the orchard.
The Garden in the South
OVEMBER in this region is the month
for general preparedness for the spring
drive; cleaning up; rehabilitation of soil,
shrubs and trees; conservation of time
in a thorough preparation of the soil; saving
clean trash for a compost heap; setting out dor-
mant plants, trees, and shrubs.
Cleaning up or setting the garden in order.
Burn weeds that are obnoxious or diseased or
infested with insects. Read also the article on
page 118.
Rehabilitation of the soil by the sowing of crops
for green manures. Alsike clover, vetch and rye,
and Canada field peas can be sown now on all
vacant plots, orchard, and vineyard. Scatter
lime over the garden every three or four years—
where vegetables are constantly grown the land
is apt to get sour. Plow deeply and leave the
furrows rough so that constant freezing and thaw-
ing of the ground will mellow it; and insects will
be frozen out. Throughout the winter fresh
manure can be scattered broadcast over the
garden plots and fields, to be plowed under in
the early spring.
Rehabilitation of the orchard and small fruit
garden by pruning out all dead and diseased
limbs and thinning out where the limbs cross
each other and are too thick to let in the sun-light,
trimming off the long canes of blackberries and
raspberries, and cutting out entirely all the old
canes. Setting out new trees and shrubs in
vacant places or where others have died out.
Dormant planting should be done this month
before the ground freezes. In the orchard apple,
pear, and cherry trees can be set out. Also set
out gooseberry, currant, raspberry and black-
berry bushes. Most of the ornamental shrubs
and trees should be set out now, but a few like
Tulip Poplar are best planted in the spring, and
all evergreens should be planted in March or
late February. Peaches, plums and apricots
or such fruit as have large kernels should be
planted in the spring.
In planting dormant trees in the fall it is not
‘necessary to water them; but one person should
hold the tree steady and straight while another
packs the dirt firmly about the roots with a
pointed pole; and two poles should be planted
a foot away from the tree on opposite sides,
to which the tree should be tied to prevent its
being loosened by the strong winds.
This preparation of the soil and rehabilitation
of the fruit trees and bushes is great conservation -
of time. Conservation is the watch word now
as labor is scarce and materials are costly.
Because of their food value the planting of
nut trees is advocated, the quick growing varieties
of chestnuts, pecans, and walnuts. The two latter
are particularly ornamental trees and could be
planted on the lawn.
There should be more apples planted; they are
such a wholesome fruit both raw and cooked,
and although the standards do not begin bearing
for eight years—setting out an orchard is a good
investment—and the small gardens could grow
the dwarf apples which come into bearing earlier
and take up one-fourth the space.
Grime’s Golden is a yellow apple for early
winter and a good eating apple. The Albemarle
pippin adapted to special soils in Virginia is a
most superior apple for all purposes; and the
Winesap is a close second and can be more widely
planted. Black Twig is also a good winter apple.
Saving of bean vines, grass clippings, old leaves,
and all clean trash and piling them together for
a compost heap is more necessary than ever—
and if they are turned over several times, and
mixed with well rotted manure and in the spring
some acid phosphate added, no better material
could be had for the renewing of the soil in the
cold frames or to use in the garden.
The dormant crops in vegetable gardens are
asparagus, cabbages, and lettuce. Get good
strong roots of asparagus and plant them eighteen
inches apart in a trench which is two feet deep
and two feet wide—put six inches of well rooted
cow manure in the bottom of trench, over this
two inches of soil;—lay the roots cross-wise of
the trench; fill in a little soil ata time. Asparagus
roots have a tendency to push upward and
therefore should be planted deep; the trenches
should be five feet apart. Conover’s Colossal is
a good green variety and should have flat culture.
The Giant Argenteuil is an excellent variety to
be hilled up and use the white or blanched
stalks. It is free from rust or other diseases.
Set out one year old plants.
Set out the Early Jersey Wakefield cabbage
plants in rows running east and west and in
furrows quite deep, so that the earth hilled up on
the north side will give protection in very severe
weather. Set these plants fifteen inches apart and
between them set a plant of Hanson lettuce.
For the flower garden the dormant things are
mainly the Sweet Peas, Shirley Poppies, Arabis,
Forget-me-not, Phlox Drummondi—in the way
of annuals; and all perennials are best planted in
the fall so they can get an early start the first
warm days of spring.
Care should be taken not to put manure too
close to Rose bushes and only well rotted, strawy
manure should be put on the beds. Only the
tender varieties should be protected in winter
with straw or pine tags about them and this
should be done after the ground is frozen. The
object is to prevent the constant freezing and
thawing which loosens the roots in the ground
and so often kills the plant.
The celery must be continually banked up
with earth as fast as it grows and in December
pine tags or straw put over the entire bed and
held down by planks or poles put on in a slanting
manner like a roof, to shed the snow and rain.
The indoor garden needs constant attention.
Vegetables and flowers in greenhouse, coldframes
and conservatory should have air every day
even in cold weather; and extra protection given
in severe weather at nights. A thorough watering
when needed is better than a sprinkling each day.
Lettuce in the cold frames can be forced to
maturity for Thanksgiving if started in August
and constantly feeding the plants with nitrate
of soda or manure water between the rows of
lettuce, and not allowing the leaves to get wet.
Constantly loosen the soil between the rows.
Keep on the lookout for lettuce worms and
use slug shot to exterminate them. In order to
prevent lettuce wilt put fresh soil in the frames
each winter;—also give air every day. Bring
plants to quick maturity by constant feeding.
Way-a-head is a good winter variety which
heads up readily.
Store vegetables for winter use either in cool
cellars or kilns. Directions for making same are
given in November number of 1916 GARDEN
MaGazine.
Virginia J. M. Patrerson.
Economical Use of Fuel
Prepared for THE GARDEN Macazine bythe United
States Fuel Administration
N MANY fields of Flanders and Northern
France, not even “poppies will grow
between the crosses row on row.” Deso-
lation will mark those war-torn acres for
generations to come. As the stricken lands now
look to America for men, ammunition, fuel and
food with which to free themselves of the enemy’s
yoke, so they may turn to us any day for seeds
with which to reclothe their naked fields, and
many finely bred plants would be lost if it were
not for the greenhouses.
But the supply of fuel for greenhouse heating is
limited, and it becomes the patriotic duty of
every grower of greenhouse crops to make the
best use possible of every pound of fuel whether
it be anthracite coal, bituminous coal, wood,
coke, oil, or gas.
As a rule, greenhouse heating plants are in-
efficient, owing to the fact that the firing is
only a part of some person’s duties, and the best
use is not made of the fuel consumed. The
amount of care demanded by a greenhouse
heating plant is not great, but it must be given
at regular intervals and special care must be
taken when bituminous coal is used. This fuel
is liable to form a film of soot on the tubes or
_ fireways of the boiler, and records show that a
very thin film of soot on the parts of the boiler
with which the hot gases come in contact will,
in the: majority of cases, prevent the transmission
of 25 to 35 per cent. of the heat of the fuel.
Therefore, unless the boiler is kept perfectly
clean, undue waste of heat will occur.
Economical consumption of fuel depends more
on the proper regulation of the draft than on
any other single factor. Every heater should
be supplied with a check-draft damper in the
smoke pipe, as well as the customary turn-
damper: The check-draft damper is as important
in controlling the rate at which the fire burns, as
is the throttle of an engine. It operates op-
positely from the turn-draft damper, in that it
is opened to check the fire while the turn-draft
damper is closed to check the fire. The coaling
door of the furnace should never be allowed to
femain open to check the fire, as this permits
the entrance of cool air into the furnace and is
very wasteful of fuel. The fire should always be
controlled by manipulating the turn-draft damper
and the check-draft damper and by opening and
closing the slide in the door on the ash pit.
The method of handling the fire will, of course,
depend to a large extent upon the kind of fuel
used but the principles governing economical
combustion should always be kept in mind.
Heat that is allowed to pass up the chimney is
heat lost. Every possible unit should be utilized
to heat the water or to make steam or to heat
air, depending upon the type of furnace used.
When coal is used for fuel, the fire should be
kept clean and excessive slicing or stoking
avoided. A moderately thick fire spread evenly
over the entire grate surface is in nearly all cases
the most economical. The fire should never be
so thin that portions of the grate are exposed,
and should not be so thick as to interfere with
the draft. Reasonably frequent application of
fuel in moderate quantities is more economical
than the application of large amounts of fuel
at one time. When oil or gas are used as fuel,
-It is a simpler matter to adjust the fire as the
adjustments may all be made by manipulating
the burners. It should be remembered that a
blue flame when burning oil or gas, indicates
perfect combustion, while a yellow flame indi-
cates poor combustion. Yellow flame usually
indicates that too much fuel is being admitted.
Very economical results can be secured in
bituminous and anthracite slack, provided the
proper draft is supplied. By the use of special
grates and with forced draft, greenhouses can
be heated with these low grade fuels in the
severest weather at a cost of about one-third
that of high grade bituminous or anthracite
coal. It is necessary to use grate bars with
finer openings and as a rule the forced draft is
supplied by some type of rotary blower forcing
the air into the ash pit and through the fire.
The capacity within certain limits of any boiler
epends very largely on the size and height of
the stack. The accompanying table gives the
size and height of stacks recommended for dif-
ferent size boilers.
RATING OF HOT WATER SIZE OF STACK IN INCHES
BOILER IN SQUARE FT. Round Square
400 to 700 8 8x8
850 to 1200 10 8x12
1350 to 2100 12 I2xI2
2400 to 3400 14 12x16
3700 to 5100 16 16x16
5900 to 8500 18 16x20
The height of the chimney or stack must be
determined by the height of surrounding build-
ings or trees, whether the plant is located on a
hill or in a valley, and by other factors. To
insure good draft, it is necessary that the chimney
extend several feet above any surrounding ob-
struction.
When a hot water heating system is used, the
installation of a circulating pump in the return
near the boiler will in most cases result in a
very marked saving of fuel and will enable the
operator to maintain a satisfactory temperature
in the houses without undue forcing of the boiler.
When steam heating systems are used, the instal-
lation of a return trap or pump to return the
condensation to the boiler and to keep the system
free from condensation, will in most cases result
in a marked saving. Where installation of
forced circulation apparatus is not feasible, a
great deal can be accomplished by re-aligning the
piping system so that uniform grade is secured,
thus avoiding pockets which seriously interfere
with the circulation. The installation of auto-
matic air valves for the removal of air at various
points in the steam system will help matters
considerably.
Substitution of Cool Crops
Prepared by the Office of Information, U. S.
Department of Agriculture
RACTICALLY twice as much radiation
is required to maintain greenhouses at a
temperature of 70° to 75° as for houses to be
carried at a temperature of 45° to 50°. With
heating systems of equal efficiency this means
that it will require nearly twice the fuel to grow
warm crops demanding the higher temperature
than will be needed for a crop like lettuce which
may be grown between 45° and 50° F. As a
fuel conservation measure the greenhouse vege-
table grower can in many cases substitute cool
crops for warm ones and enable himself to keep
his plant in operation on the amount of fuel
available.
Fall tomatoes when grown as a greenhouse
crop require large quantities of fuel to maintain
the temperature necessary to their development
as the crop occupies the houses during the short
i11
aN Your Greenhouse with the |
VAS 50% Coal Allowance di
cold days of early winter when the amount of
sunshine available is very limited. Many green-
house men regard fall tomatoes as a very un-
certain crop as it does not yield as well as when
grown in spring when the days are longer. The
same is to a large extent true of cucumbers—
and they require an even higher temperature
than tomatoes. They are usually grown as a
spring crop but those growers who produce this
crop in the fall can, by substituting some cool
crop, keep their plants in operation.
As possible substitutes for fall tomatoes and
cucumbers, lettuce and cauliflower are perhaps
the most promising crops. While it is true that
the market is usually well supplied with lettuce
there is a good demand for cauliflower.
Other crops that will thrive at comparatively
low temperature and which may be grown in
place of high temperature crops, are radishes,
chard, beets, and dandelion.
Radishes are forced in practically all vegetable
regions and as a rule are in considerable demand.
It is, however, an easy matter to oversupply
the demand for radishes. The temperature re-
quired is even lower than that for lettuce., This
vegetable is not subject to attacks from many
insects or diseases, and is on the whole very
easily grown. ;
Beets may be grown in the greenhouse when
the conditions are similar to those suited to the
growing of lettuce. Greenhouse beets are in
considerable demand both for the tops for greens
and for the roots. They will, however, come in
competition with stored beets and. with those
grown in cold frames in the warmer portions of
the country and it is not probable that it would
be safe to devote any considerable space to their
cultivation without assurance that a marketexists.
Swiss chard presents interesting possibilities
as a greenhouse crop. This vegetable requires
the same conditions as its relative the beet, but
owing to its fine quality when used as a salad
plant it should be useful.
The dandelion requires about the same condi-
tions as lettuce, and is a crop that might readily
be substituted for high temperature crops. The
demand is somewhat limited, however, but it
is worthy of the attention of vegetable growers
who are lacking for substitute crops for cucumbers
and lettuce. While greenhouse grown cauli-
flower comes in competition with the Southern,
and California grown product it is altogether
probable that the market will consume all the
winter grown cauliflower that can be produced.
This vegetable is a cool crop demanding a temp-
erature little higher than lettuce. While the
plants are small, intercropping can be practised
using lettuce or radishes, which will be removed
before the cauliflower attains sufficient size to
interfere with these crops.
In the past the difficulty in securing good
seed has deterred many from growing greenhouse
cauliflower, and particular attention should be
paid to securing seed of a satisfactory strain.
The grower of cut flowers and ornamental
plants is not as a rule situated so that it is possible
for him to substitute one crop for another as his
stock must be provided and set in the houses
before the forcing season. Roses and Carnations
are planted in the house in midsummer. It is
possible to carry both of these crops at lower
temperature than usual, resulting in slower de-
velopment, but in a better product.
Typical destruction of a home orchard at Péronne. No military pur-
pose served
France and of handicapping the rehabilitation
Remaking the}
HE accompanying photographs tell ments were all completed last winter bu!
in vivid terms more forcefully than advance of the enemy came before any ;
any words the tragic story of what operations were opened, which perha \
has happened to the homes and gardens just as well, for the entire fund anal
of northern France. This destruction of orna- to about $4,000 remains deposited I |
mental and fruit bearing trees, has alltooevidently credit of the American Paeel for 1|
been accomplished with the malicious prevision Wounded with Morgan, Harjes & Co
of rendering permanent injury to the fair land of Paris. ij
It is planned to make the necessary pu;
of trees, buds, and grafts from the nurse’
of the occupied territory. It offers also another
the neighborhood of Nancy, to be deliver
opportunity for American gardeners to express
practical sympathy.
Soon after the extent of this wan-
ton destruction began in some de-
eree to be realized a Committee
of the Horticultural Society of New
York was appointed to bring relief
to the gardeners of France. A
fund was opened and donations
were made from individuals and
from various Horticultural Societies
and Garden Clubs. Arrangements
were made for the distribution
of the funds in France by the Paris
Depot of the American Fund for
French Wounded, through Mrs.
Lathrop.
This organization undertakes to
supervise all the work for the dis-
tribution and plant-
ing, under the direct
supervision of Mrs.
Mortimer Forest of
St. Paul, Minnesota,
a graduate of the
Agricultural College
of that state, and a
successful fruit
grower. Mrs. Forest
generously under-
takes to do all the
work at her own ex-
pense so that every
cent contributed to
the fund of the Hor-
ticultural Society of
NewYork is expended
directly for the pur-
chase of the necessary
nursery stock.
These arrange-
EAL Oa tN
Refugees return to their homes at Chateau Thierry where the Ametidl
the garden. The people find sor
Barbed wire ac-
cessory defenses
constructed by the
Germans in the gar-
dens of Arny
¥
dens of France
yr-trucks and planted under the supervision land, the Horticultural Society of New York,
he owners assisted by French soldiers in in conjunction with the New York Florists Club,
‘billets as soon as the evacuated territory in May last, started a second fund for the up-keep
mes available. of three motors costing $125 per month each.
uit gardens thus planted will be suitably These motors which will later be used in the
ced with the donor’s name; and so far as_ replanting work are now in service on the fighting
‘ble, the gardens of one village will. all be line.
sed with trees paid for by the donation of a Organizations that have contributed in addi-
a club or society, and suitably marked with tion to the original subscribers are the Garden
‘organization’s name. Clubs of Lenox, Mass., Bedford, N. Y., Hartford,
the meantime, awaiting the recovery of the Ct. Ruxton, Md., Albemarle County, Va.,
' Lawrence, N. Y., Ridgefield, Ct.,
: Short Hills, N. J., New Rochelle,
N. Y., Greenwich, Ct., Plain-
field, N. J., Litchfield, Ct., Hor-
ticultural Societies of Newport,
R. IL, Nassau, N. Y., Tuxedo, N.
Y., Rhode Island, New Trier,
Ill, Monmouth, N. J., West
Chester, N. Y., Fairfield, Ct., The
Buffalo Florists’ Club, Chicago
Chapter of the Wild Flower Pre-
servation Society, American Society
for Horticultural Science and The
Wyoming Valley Chapter of the
American Revolution. —
Thesubscription lists arestillopen
for both funds and donations will be
thankfully received either by Mr. It was too much of a job to completely cut through, so this apple tree
: is girdled by axe blows
Frederic R. Newbold,
Treasurer of the Hor-
ticultural Society of
New York or Mrs.
Walter Bliss, Treas.
American Fund for
French Wounded, 73
Park Avenue, New
York City.
There can be no
better medium of ex-
pression of the sym-
pathy felt by the gar-
deners of America for
their fellow craftsmen
in France than in con-
tributing as liberally
as possible to the
Tree Fund of the
Horticultural Society
for restocking the
gardens of France.
eir first big impression, to find everything destroyed but the flowers in
d comfort in gathering the blooms
: : at eee
* 2 teh, i Asin |
a ES
ee 7 ELS “
The destruction of the gardens that were around the homes at Fleury Martel
An _ ancient Oak
near Vaux which has
been killed in the ac-
cepted fashion with-
out troubling to cut
it down
“au at Robecourt, near Hombleux. ‘These trees were of
Typical destruction of a home orchard at Péronne,
pose served
France ani
No military pur-
i otographs tell
a eet ly het
ragic story of what
hae So ii Rie Homes and Baten
of northern France. This deacon ose
mental and fruit bearing trees, aan ! Be vidently
been accomplished with. ne zal we dt
fr Pea Re ecto the pehebiceion
i other
of the occupied territory- It eerste? ane
opportunity for aa garde
ical sympathy- ;
Bie. ate extent of this at
ton destruction began in Bee
gree to be realized a Co
of the Horticultural Society © i
York was appointed to bring relie
to the gardeners of dralcerecs
Ha as Oo eal a
i ade from 1 als ar
on aioe Horticultural Sorienies
and Garden Clubs. Arrangements
were made for the ier ue A
of the funds in France by i ‘i ae
Depot of the American ih ae
French Wounded, throug 5
‘op.
FEE ee atination undereeee
supervise all the work for ie fs
tribution and plant
ing, under the direct
supervision of Mrs.
Mortimer Forest of
St. Paul, Minnesota,
a graduate of the
Agricultural College
of that state, and a
successful fruit
grower. Mrs. Forest
generously under-
takes to do all the
work at her own ex-
pense so that every
cent contributed — to
the fund of the Hor-
ticultural Society of
NewYork is expended
directly for the pur-
chase of the necessary
nursery stock.
These arrange-
HE accomp
in vivid terms more
Barbed wire ac-
cessory defenses
constructed by the
Germans in the gar-
dens of Arny
Refugees return to their
Remaking the ardens of France
ments were all completed last winter but the) motor-trucks and planted under the supervision
advance of the enemy came before any actual) of the owners assisted by French soldiers in
operations were opened, which perhaps Was rest billets as soon as the evacuated territory
just as well, for the entire fund amounting | becomes available.
to about $4,000 remains deposited to che Fruit gardens thus planted will be suitably
credit of the American Fund for Tench marked with the donor's name; and so far as
Wounded with Morgan, Harjes & Company, | possible, the gardens of one village will all be
Paris.
| planted with trees paid for by the donation of a
It is planned to make the necessary Purchase| given club or society, and suitably marked! with
of trees, buds, and grafts from the Nurseries i
BORE CCE
i - that organization's name. |
the neighborhood of Nancy, to be delivered by|| In the meantime, awaiting the recovery of the
the garden. The people find someconsition and'comfort in gathering the blooms.
homes at Chateau Thierry where the American AnmMade their first big impression, to find everything destroyed but the flowers in
land, the Horticultural Society of New York,
in conjunction with the New York Florists Club,
in May last, started a second fund for the up-keep
of three motors costing $125 per month each,
These motors which will later be used in the
replanting work are now in service on the fighting
ine.
: Organizations that have contributed in addi-
tion to the original subscribers are the Garden
Clubs of Lenox, Mass., Bedford, N. Y., Hartford,
Ct, Ruxton, Md., Albemarle County, Va.,
Lawrence, N. Y., Ridgefield, Ct.,
Short Hills, N. J. New Rochelle,
N. Y., Greenwich, Ct., Plain-
field, N. J., Litchfield, Ct., Hor-
ticultural Societies of Newport,
R. I., Nassau, N. Y., Tuxedo, N.
Y., Rhode Island, New Trier,
Ill., Monmouth, N. J.. West
Chester, N. Y., Fairfield, Ct., The
Buffalo Florists’ Club, Chicago
Chapter of the Wild Flower Pre-
servation Society, American Society
for Horticultural Science and The
Wyoming Valley Chapter of the
American Revolution.
Thesubscription lists arestillopen
for both funds and donations will be
thankfully received either by Mr.
Frederic R. Newbold,
Treasurer of the Hor-
ticultural Society of
New York or Mrs.
Walter Bliss, Treas.
American Fund for
French Wounded, 73
Park Avenue, New
York City.
There can be no
better medium of ex-
pression of the sym-
pathy felt by the gar-
deners of America for
their fellow craftsmen
in France than in con-
tributing as liberally
as possible to the
Tree Fund of the
Horticultural Society
for restocking the
gardens of France.
Tt was too much of a job to completely cut through, so this apple tree
i is girdled by axe blows
An ancient Oak
near Vaux which has
been killed inthe ac-
cepted fashion with-
out troubling to cut
it down
ESSEC
SSS
THE PATRI OTIC GARDEN.
FOOD F-O'B sae
Bk
‘Sie
_, He also HOM who
fom KITCH
Ws xP
Saba: renee
Wd
4
—
ey
a
—
4
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i
ZZ
MUddléddldddda
VM
|
Vj
fill
MUM
Zi,
Ga
EN DODR,
helps a Fighter Fight St
ZA
y
i Baie for Next Year”
That’s How the War Gardeners Answer the Roll Call from Sea to Sea—1919 a Still Bigger Garden Year
F ANY Central Empire or other foreign
minister still has lingering hopes of putting
over any peace notes in this country, it
might be well for him to canvass the war
gardeners for they too have a message for him
and, keeping to the fashion set by President
Wilson, it also is short and to the point. The
message is this: “We are getting ready for next
year.” And that is just what the gardeners are
doing for (while you still hear the announcement
of awards of canning prizes and the storage in-
structions are being studied with care) the home
gardener of America is making plans for 1919.
a ae
At the Michigan State Fair in Detroit, 500
enrolled with C. E. Smith of the Forestry De-
partment, Detroir ParKs AND BOULEVARDS
and Mr. Smith says he will have 50,000 war
gardeners on his rolls before the snow is off the
ground next spring. Similar reports from other
places are coming to the National War Garden
Commission at Washington all the time.
x ex
One of the remarkable instances of “get
ready” can be found in the office of Richardson
Webster, register of Kincs County, New York.
Now,the position of register of KingsCounty seems
far removed from a war garden campaign but
strange as it may seem Mr. Webster finds himself
in the very centre of it. By virtue of his office
Mr. Webster can put his finger on every vacant
lot in Kings County. The people of Kings
believe that slacker land will not win the war.
Consequently they want permission to put that
land to work. Webster is the man they go to.
The line in waiting got so long that the register
had to have blanks printed to keep up with his
work. He is now giving out those blanks and
enrolling war gardeners with the snow on the
ground. Mr. Webster of course does not come
in contact with the great army of gardeners who
have land of their own.
Perhaps the most unique campaign for garden-
ing in the country was conducted in New York
City where “‘cliff dwellers” are not supposed to
know anything about gardens except the ones
on the roofs. But, like the Allied armies once
they get going, nothing can stop the war gardener
of Manhattan when he gets the rock cleared away.
Park Commissioner William F. Grell believed
something could be done and he appointed
A. N. Gitterman, chairman of the War Garden
Committee of Manhattan. Knowing the value
of publicity Mr. Gitterman established a demon-
stration garden in Bryant Park on Forty-second
Street. [he National War Garden Commission
put up the “little garden house” midway between
the Y. M. C. A. hut and the Public Library.
Here information was given out andamodel garden
planted by Edward J. Miller, Ph.G., who has
studie 2 the soil of Manhattan every time he could
find z That garden is working all winter
for it nies been put under glass and thousands
upon thousands of people have seen the garden
and stopped to ask questions as to how they
could plant “Food F O B The Kitchen Door.”
In his report Mr. Gitterman shows that
1,550 gardens were listed by the Park Depart-
ment. The value of the produce, complied
from reports every supervisor had to turn in is
placed at $22,385. The gardens were planted
on hillside and along river front, in fact every-
where that soil could be found deep enough to
take the seed. Another garden was maintained
for demonstration purposes in Union Square be-
3
4
he
&
f
y
Brooms are a dollar apiece. Thecropof broom corn at Camp
Dix will be worth a thousand brooms. In the photograph, Gen-
eral Hugh L. Scott, “ H. White and Mr. Charles
Lathrcp Pack, president of the National War Garden Commis-
sion
cause there is only one foot of soil above the
roof of the Subway.
The big point in Chairman Gitterman’s report
is the outline of his plans for next year. Te is
organized to carry on the work and in this look
114
ahead he points to the importance of having
four castor bean plants in every war garden to
help find castor oil for the airplanes. This
plan he has submitted to the a€ronautics division
of the Army.
* * OK
“Get ready,” is the note everywhere. Through-
out the land the county fairs made special pro-
vision for informing the people on war gardening
and the canning and drying of their product.
One of the biggest campaigns of education as to
the importance of food close to the point of con-
sumption has been put on by the Mid-West Hor-
ticultural Show at Des Morngs, Iowa, the first
week. in November. With the poster from the
National War Garden Commission called “Win
the Next War Now” as a centre piece, the Cham-
ber of Commerce is putting out big placards in
every town in lowa calling attention to the war
garden canning and food conservation exhibits
to be put on in conjunction with the show. The
same sort of campaign was put on through Mis-
souril, Kansas, and Nebraska and other states in
the West by W. I. Drummond, chairman of the
Board of Governors of the International Farm
Congress which was held in Kansas City in
October.
* * *
The demonstration garden at Camp Drx,N. J.,
where soldiers planted food “close to the mess
tent door” has been one of the greatest agencies
for impressing the importance of eliminating
transportation as far as possible from the food
question. The other day a “‘harvest luncheon”
was given. At this luncheon were Gen. Hugh L.
Scott and Charles Lathrop Pack, the president of
the National War Garden Commission which had
given the quartermaster’s corps the seeds and
implements with which to get started last spring.
Of course these two men took great pride in the
success of the gardens but even greater interest
was shown in the work of Capt. E. V. Champlin
and Lieut. John F. Bonnor who had active charge
of the “‘soldiers of the soil.” The importance of
big camp gardens was at once seen by S. W.
Hartley, who was at the luncheon representing
Gen. Drake of the Motor Transport Corps, and
Capt. R. T. Rasmussen of the same branch of
the service. Others who attended the luncheon
and the inspection that followed were: W. S.
Tyler, food administrator for New Jersey; Col.
H. E. Wilkins, depot quartermaster at New
York; Col. E. R. Tompkins of the Quartermas-
' ter’s Department; Col. J. E. McIntosh, subsis-
tence officer, and known as the man who feeds the
army; Col. Morris Slayton, quartermaster gen-
eral’s office; Dr. J. H. McNeil, assistant secretary
of agriculture for New Jersey; Maj. Chas. R.
Van Ettan of the Inspector General’s Depart-
ment; Maj. R. C. Griswold of the Quartermas-
ter General’s office. Maj. A. C. Jensen, Camp
Dix Quartermaster; Cap. William Bethke, the
camp’s subsistence officer; Capt. J. E. Lee,
Quartermaster General’s office. ‘These men are
all tremendously interested in food and big plans
NovEMBER, 1918
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Not a hand grenade but a war garden cabbage in Minn-
eapolis. Miss Dorothy Primm reports 35,180 other war gar-
deners there with crops worth $1,500,000
are afoot for next year’s production of it close to
the camps. With them it is “get ready” just as
it is with the individual gardener for with an army
of five million men, and the average cost of feed-
ing a soldier at forty cents a day, it means that
two million dollars’ worth of food must be handled
every day for the army alone.
But what the soldier can do, the citizen big and
little feels that he can do. For example there is
the work of Irene McMahon of the LowEti
ScHoot at Missouta, Mont., who never canned
anything before but her work was so good that
Mr. Frank S. Lusk, a banker of Missoula sent
samples of the girl’s work to the National War
Garden Commission. The war garden army in
Montana is making plans for next year too just
to show that they have something besides copper
and sheep out there. Examples of this kind have
come to the National War Garden. Commission
by the thousands. One armed men and men with
one leg have battled the bugs just as valiantly as
the man in the trenches battles the boche.
* * *
Marion, Inp1ana, claims the record for war
gardening work as a municipality. Lewis de
Wolf of the Marion War Garden Association, has
turned in figures to the National War Garden
Commission which show that Marion had 14,000
war gardens with a population of 27,000. This is
one garden to every two people and Mr. de Wolf
defies the world to beat it. In thousands of towns
and cities campaigns were carried on that pro-
duced great crops but the National War Garden
Commission has not yet received figures that
touch this mark based upon similar population.
Of course there are smaller towns, and a lot of
them, where “everybody has a garden” as the
saying goes. For instance Secretary Mantor of
the Commercial Club of St. Cloud, Minn.,
reports 2,500 gardens in a population of 16,000.
One of the heartening things about the cam-
paign was the Foreicn INguiRIEs as to war gar-
den work. The home food production idea has
spread throughout the world. Under the plans
of the Allied Food Controller who held a confer-
ence in LonpDoN, seventy per cent. of the deficiency
in essential foodstuffs of the Allied countries must
be supplied from North America. A statement
by the Canada Food Board issued after this
conference declares the food situation still de-
mands “‘that the greatest possible use be made of
the produce of war gardens and of vegetables of
all kinds.” To help meet this demand the war
gardener is making bigger plans for 1919.
It is probable that in 1919 intensive war garden
campaigns will be conducted in many other
countries and an immense amount of food added
to the world’s production. CaNnapa has made
marvelous strides in this work; and Frederick
Abraham, honorary chairman of the war garden
and vacant lot section of the Canada Food
Board, places the amount of home grown food in
the Dominion this year at approximately
$50,000,000, which is more than double the value
in IQ17.
“The garden campaign has succeeded beyond
the fondest anticipations of those who witnessed
and participated in its inauguration in the United
States early in 1917,” says CHARLES LaTHROP
Pack. “The increase this season both in the
number of gardens and in the value of the prod-
Extra Daylight Helped Gardeners
§ War Garden records were smashed in 1918 and a
great deal of the credit is given to the Daylight Savings
Law by the National War Garden Commission.
| “War Garden crop values were increased by millions
of dollars as a result of the law,’’ said Charles Lathrop
Pack, president of the National War Garden Commission
whose demonstration garden at Camp Dix produced
$25,000 worth of food.
q “Figuring 26 working days in each of the seven
months,” continued Mr. Pack, “you have: 182 extra
hours in which to work. Our nation-wide survey shows
there were five million, two hundred eighty-five thousand
home food producing plots. If only one gardener worked
this extra hour in each plot it means nine hundred sixty-one
million, eight hundred and seventy thousand hours of extra
time. Since there are 8,760 hours in a year we find credited
to food production work the staggering total 109,803 years
of 24 hour days.
4 “ However, there are eight hours in a working day and
to get the real figures we multiply by three and find 329,409
working or eight-hour-day years available. Importance
‘of this cannot be over estimated. We are to have an army
of five million men and it averages forty cents a day to
feed a soldier. In other words two million dollars’ worth
of food must be handled every day. The big question is
transportation for that food. The war gardener who
produces close to the kitchen door does a great work and the
demonstration garden at Camp Dix teaches a big lesson in
feeding the army.”
The boys at Camp Dix are also successful as farmers and the
harvesting has been no small task. 1000 bushels of string beans
is just one item
uct, has been most inspiring. The consequent
conservation movement has swept the country.
The knowledge that other nations have started,
or are preparing to profit by this new source of
food supply, has added to the satisfaction of the
workers here.
“Then too, in the opinion of those who are in a
position to know, the war garden is a new econ-
omic factor, it has come to stay. The United
States to-day is confronted with the problem of
feeding its 100,000,000 people in addition to sup-
plying part of the needs of its allies and their
armies. But when the guns of the war have
ceased to sound there will be another 100,c00,000
or more of people in the world who will demand
food. They will be the neutrals and the other
unfortunate nations who have been struggling
along on scant, often actual starvation diet,
either because of shortage or because the food
would have fallen into German hands. It will
be years after the war’s end before the normal
food stock reserve of the world will be restored.
“The war garden must continue to giveits
widespread, economic, and efficient aid in supple-
menting the supplies obtained from the farm and
other fields. The amateurs of 1917 have become
the veteran war gardeners of 1918, and 1919
will see their numbers increased.
“Like the American soldiers in France the
people back home would not understand an order
to retreat. They will go forward continuing to
supply the needs of the men at the front and to
those who are with them in the battle for democ-
racy.
The cliff dwellers of Manhattan Island are successful war gardeners, too. The Park Commissioner helped them utilize all the vacant, flat land. This is not a common conception of 90th Street and
Lexington Avenue, that’s the spot
- Pictorial Lessons in Pruning 1. sHewarp
f REES are pruned to increase the size
and appearance of fruit and flowers by
removing the surplus branches. In pruning
apples, pears, plums, cherries, goose-
berries, etc., remove all cross branches that
shut out the sun and air, and all dead wood.
THE ORCHARD TREE
Fig. r shows an apple tree, one half of which
has been pruned, the other half unpruned. The
first operation in pruning this is to remove
any water sprouts (//) that start on the main
branches. Cut close to the branches with a
pruning knife; or if too large, use a saw (Fig. 32.)
When using a saw go over the edges of the
cut with a sharp knife (Fig. 2) inorder to make
a clean cut (f7g. r, C) that will heal over readily.
Fig. 1, A shows the wrong way to cut away a
branch, B the result. Cut close to the branch
and smooth over with a knife and the cut will
heal over (Fig. r, C).
The method of removing a large branch is at
D, making a cut underneath before sawing
through from above. Y shows how water
sprouts will start to grow the following year if
not cut close to the branch.
FRUIT OR LEAF SPUR?
Cut out all cross branches (X) that shut out
the sun and air and are growing inwardly.
Remove any fruit spurs that are too far from
the light and sun. Fig. z, V on the branch J
shows a bunch of apples too far from the light
to ripen properly, and are best removed. Prune
as at H and K. Fruit spurs are shown at S.
In Fig. 21, F S shows a fruit spur, L a leaf spur.
Fig. 22 is the same branch the following summer.
After removing all the cross branches, shorten
back all the new wood to about one third its
length, keeping in mind the shape of the tree and
always cutting to an outside bud, thus causing
the branches to grow outwards. fig. r E shows
the method of doing this.
THE “CLEAN” CUT
A sharp knife (Fig: 30) is the best pruning tool
because it does not injure the bark and leaves
a clean cut, but in pruning tall trees it is, not
possible to use a knife, so long handled tree
pruners (Fig. rr) are used. If the blade is filed
to a very sharp edge a clean cut can be made.
Fig. 3, A shows a shoot cut too far from the
bud. In Fig. 4 the top bud has grown into a
branch the following year. 4 is the same stub,
now withered and dead but not covered over.
If the cut had been made as shown at Fig. 5
the bark would have covered the cut (B in Fig. 6).
The wrong way to cut is seen at Figs. 7 and 8,
Fig. 9 is the right way.
Pears are pruned much the same way. fig. 10
shows a spur of a pear that has grown too long,
and the method of cutting back. Remove all
dead wood and cross branches. Fig. 28 shows
a small branch with leaf and fruit spurs, and
Fig. 29 the same branch the following summer.
SMALL FRUITS AND BERRIES
In pruning gooseberries and currants remove
the old and worn-out wood, train in new branches
to replace those cut away and spur back the
new wood (Fig. 20). Figs. 18 and 19 show where
the fruit forms on the wood of a gooseberry _
pa 2), CA
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bush. Fig. 17, A, B, C shows the method of
pruning; the other half unpruned. Cut away
the small branches (X) and shorten back the
new wood to the dotted line.
Since blackberries, raspberries, etc., fruit
on the new wood, prune by cutting away the
old wood and train in the new. Fig. 25 shows
a good way to grow blackberries. 4 is the wood
that will not bear fruit. Therefore cut it away
and train in the young wood (B). Cut the top
to make laterals form (4). Fig. 26 shows a
piece of wood with fruit buds and Fig. 27 the
same the following summer bearing fruit.
HOW ABOUT ROSES?
Roses unpruned H. P.,are seen in Fig. r4 and
in Fig. 15 the same pruned. ‘fig. 23 shows a
Climbing Rose, B a strong young shoot breaking
from the bottom of the plant and 4 an old shoot.
In training these over arches, etc., the young
wood is to be preferred, but if there is not enough
to cover the space use old wood, pruning as
shown at C, Fig. 23. Fig. 24 shows how C will
flower the following year. /7g. 37 is C enlarged.
As a rule Roses are best pruned in spring but old
wood of climbers may be taken out now.
ROOT PRUNING
Root pruning is practical when trees grow very
strong and vigorous but do not bear fruit. Re-
move the soil from around the trunk of the tree
exposing the roots, cut through the strongest
with a wood chisel, making the cut from under-
neath. Then replace the soil. Fig. r2 shows
the method of cutting the roots and Fig. 13 how
small roots will start from the cut.
eet
Pesaran Nan ia AN)
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Optimist’s Opinion
. I believe in the righteousness of Amer-
ica’s cause.
I believe in the fighting qualities of
America’s men—and women.
I believe in the service which the florists
are rendering the nation in helping America
to “Say it with Flowers.”
I believe that each individual reader of
Garden Magazine is anxious to further the
cause of ‘‘Flowers for Every Soldier.”
To bring the attainment of this ideal
nearer, | am making this special
Optimist’s Offer
Every one who orders, before March Ist,
1919, flowering plants to the amount of
Five Dollars, to be selected from our Free
Catalog, will receive a guaranteed to bloom
plant of the wonderful, crimson Hoosier
Beauty Rose shown above, with the com-
pliments of
Chas. H. Totty Co., Madison, N. J.
Pees THE
| MAGAZINE/
Ym DECEMBER, , 1918
,
ae
VEC ONTENTS “
eae
Cover Drsicn—‘Say It Wit FLowers”
WHEN FLOWERS MEAN Morr THAN MEDICINES
Sophie Kerr
Photographs by Underwood & Underwood
Sketches by Frank Spradling
AMONG OUR GARDEN NEIGHBORS - - - - - -
Four ILLUSTRATIONS
We All Pay The Price—The Next Step For This Mag-
azine—The Florists and Wartimes—Exit The “‘War’—
The Christmas Call—The Open Column. ;
WaicH FLowrrs Witt You Grow? - - = -
SEVEN ILLUSTRATIONS
Peonies, A. P. Saunders—Sweet Pea, David Burpee—
Dahlias, Maurice Fuld—tirises, B. Y. Morrison—Roses,
Robert Pyle—Chrysanthemum, Charles H. Totty—Glad-
iolus, Mrs. A. H. Austin.
SEEN IN THE ARBORETUM -T.A. Havemeyer
Portrait of Professor Charles S. Sargent and four views
of the Arboretum supplied by the Arnold Arboretum.
Tue Biccest “Victory GARDENS” YEAR AHEAD
Charles L. Pack
Photographs page 140 by National War Garden Com-
mission, Garden Club of Minneapolis, and The Ameri-
can Rolling Mill Company; page 141 by Harris & Ewing,
J. B. White and War Garden Commission.
MAKING THE CHRISTMAS DOLLAR Buy A DOLLAR’S
WortH - - - - - - - -F.F. Rockwell
Pkotograph by J. C. Allen
THE Garpen “Movies” No. 12 - - - - - -
Photographs by W. C. McCollom
THE Prant Doctor IN THE FLOWER GARDEN
F, D. Heald
WHAT Is A ‘“‘Goop”’ STRAWBERRY? F. H. Valentine
Tue Montu’s REMINDER - - - ‘
DECEMBER PLANTING IN THESOUTH J.M. Patterson
UNcLE Sam’s GARDENING - - Frances Duncan
LEONARD Barron, Editor
VOLUME XXVIII, No. 5.
For Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
COPYRIGHT, 1918, BY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Cuicaco: Peoples Gas Bldg.
Los ANGELES: Van Nuys Bldg.
F, N. DOUBLEDAY, President
HERBERT S. HOUSTON,
Vice-President
New Yorx:
S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
DECEMBER,
»~
ATRDEN
Frank Spradling
PAGE
129
133
136
138
140
142
143
Published Monthly, 25c. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year.
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
Bosron: Tremont Bldg.
120 W. 32nd St.
RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
1918
DrecemMBER, 1918
= 2000000
=|
A Real Find for Just |
Seventy-five Dahlia Enthusiasts
For eight years I have nursed a “‘pet’’—the finest pink Peony-
flowered Dahlia in cultivation. It is so well-established now that
I have decided to dispose of the entire stock, so that other Dahlia
lovers may enjoy its enchanting beauty. I therefore offer the
entire stock of
_ The Longest-Lasting Peony Dahlia
extant—Mrs. Frederick Grinnell
It’s a beautiful flower, equally valuable for cutting, exhibition or
garden display. It is fragrant, large, yet graceful, and its pink
color is more beautiful under artificial light than outdoors. But its
greatest quality is its lasting beauty. Flowers remain in perfect
shape for a week! On this particular point the Editor of Garden
Magazine states that it is absolutely unrivaled. Awarded Inter-
national Prize by the American Dahlia Society, Silver Medal given
by the Toronto Horticultural Society for Best Seedling Dahlia
of Any Type at the American Dahlia Society Show, American
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75 Clumps at Ten Dollars Each
That’s all I have! Since I am told that there are several
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fully and guarantee their safe arrival at planting time.
John P. Rooney, 93 Bedford St., New Bedford, Mass.
UU TTT
ESV UU UT TU
eA
HODGSON iets
It is possible to build that small house you need and
still help to conserve lumber and labor. Buy the Hodgson
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All you have to do is send for the catalogue containing photographs of
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After you have selected the one you need,
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When it is finished you have a beautiful at-
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Even if you don’t need the house till Spring
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Send for the catalogue to-day.
E. F. HODGSON CO.
Room 228, 71-73 Federal St., Boston
6 East 39th St., New York
Cottage
‘THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
0000 ATA
Ti occ ae
Flowers Bring Peace |
=p
ab
9 _@ timation
L|
Yes, flowers bring peace of mind to the war worker. Keep sunny
and sweet, in spite of the stress and strain, by growing “The
Queen of Flowers.” She will respond heartily to your care; her
fragrance and marvelous color harmonies will appeal to your
sense of beauty, and impress you daily with the wonder of
Nature’s works.
Start now to plan your summer rose attractions. And let C. & J.
guaranteed-to-bloom Roses help you out, with their widely-varied
forms and colorings, with sorts adaptable to any climate. And
especially consider the
e
_ New Chinese ‘“‘Hugonis’”? Rose
—the first rose to bloom in the spring. Absolutely unique as regards appearance
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127
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
128 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE DECEMBER, 1918
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:.
a
T IS after the hour when the luncheon
trays have been carried away. The
ward is settling down to the tedium of
the long dragging afternoon. Here,
with bored restlessness, a young head, with
its deep brown campaigner’s tan curiously
dulled because of the pallor of pain that
underlies it, moves restlessly on the pillow
in weary boredom at the monotony of the
days in the hospital. His neighbor lies still, too
weak to fret, but his eyes, when he slowly lifts
them, honest boy’s eyes that they are, are listless
and dull, and very lonesome.
Then suddenly there is a faint stir outside, the
murmur of women’s voices tuned to sympathy
and gentleness, and a whiff of perfume—Roses,
Carnations, Lemon Verbena, dewysweet, fresh
with outdoors, drifts down past the long row of
white beds. The restless head turns eagerly
toward the door, his neighbor’s dull eyes brighten
with expectancy. A thrill of eagerness runs
through the whole ward and the word goes round:
“The Flower Ladies have come!”
It is true. And there isn’t a man in the ward
who doesn’t brighten up when the Flower Ladies,
as they are called—and presently I will tell you
who they are—open the door of the ward and.
come in with their great baskets heaped with
flowers. There are many wards in the hospital,
but the Flower Ladies do not seem to hurry.
They have time to stop and talk, to ask kindly
questions, to call the boys by name whom they
have seen before, even to make a little absurd
joke, such as boys love, now and then, and win a
reward of appreciative chuckles. And as they
talk, and pass from bed to bed, their hands are
very busy with the flowers.
| anee bedside table has its vase which holds
half a dozen flowers, and these are filled
by the Flower Ladies, with a flattering recogni-
tion of tastes. “You're the boy who likes pink
Roses,” or “Oh, I saved this little spray of
Larkspur just for you—you liked it so much the
last time we were here.”
Here and there, where a boy is too ill to notice
the flowers by his bedside, a fragrant blossom is
dropped on his pillow, where he can enjoy the
perfume. And to make a beauty spot for those
who are getting better, a big bouquet is placed on
the table at the end of the ward. All this, mind
you, without bothering the nurses for fresh water
for the vases, or asking them to leave their duties
to help arrange the flowers. The service of the
Flower Ladies is designed to be a real service to
all those with whom it must come in contact.
And when all the vases are arranged and all
the soldier boys—or sailor boys perhaps—have
had a word of greeting and cheer, the Flower
Ladies go into the next ward followed by a chorus
of “Come again soon” and “Goodbye, thank
you a million” and all sorts of awkward boyish
_ grateful phrases.
When F lowers Mean More
Than Medicines
The Service of Flowers Among the Soldiers in
Our Hospitals
By SOPHIE KERR
ND now to go back to the real beginning of
the story. When our wounded and _ sick
soldiers and sailors began to be brought back to
America to the base hospitals in this country,
that wonderful organization, the National League
for Woman’s Service, began to have the comfort
and welfare of these boys very much on its mind.
Tt is not the custom of the members of the League
merely to recognize a condition—they act, and
act promptly. In this case they acted on a plan
made by one of their members, Mrs. J. Clark
Curtin. It was Mrs. Curtin who became chair-
man of a committee charged with the responsi-
bility of collecting and distributing the flowers
among the hospitals, and since a large number of
the base hospitals are in New York and its
vicinity, the work was started there.
Like Jack’s beanstalk, it has grown and
grown and grown, all over the country, through
the seven hundred branches of the League. And
where there are no base hospitals to be given
this peculiarly appealing touch of cheer, League
workers who are near military training camps
have made it part of their service to send and dis-
tribute flowers to the sick boys at the camp hos-
pitals. (But that is another story.)
Those of you who have ever been in a hos-
pital for any length of time know well the dreari-
ness and monotony of the days, even with atten-’
tive friends calling, and daily gifts of flowers and
fruit and all the list of invalid’s delicacies that
are showered on you.
these soldiers and sailors, sick or wounded,
brought back from overseas, and landed into a
base hospital some hundreds or maybe thousands
of miles from home and friends. Our fighting
129
Picture then to yourself »
forces come from every state in the Union
—and the wounded lad from Nevada lies in
a bed beside another from Texas, with per-
haps a drawling-voiced Florida boy on the
other side. They are very far away from
family and friends; they are weak and
maybe a little cross—who blames them if
they are’—and they are desperately lone-
some and homesick. They need, oh how
much they need, a personal kindness, a kindness
that is intended just for them, and something
quite apart from the excellent ministrations of
their nurses. And for them—remember—here
come the Flower Ladies!
So you can imagine how really wonderful Mrs.’
Curtin’s idea was for these boys. Yet, like all
wonderful ideas, it had to have its practical side.
Here was the great question that soon arose—
Where can we get sufhcient flowers to make our
supply really worth while? People with large
estates and fine gardens would give, but this
could not be reckoned with as a constant unfailing
supply. A constant unfailing supply, brouzht
in daily, was what the hospital service absolutely
required, if it was to be a real success. So now
comes the other side of the story, the practical
side, which is quite as wonderful and as beautiful
as the idea itself.
Pee is no one quite so warm-hearted as a
cool-headed business man—that is almost
an axiom—and the colder the head, the warmer
the heart. Naturally, when Mrs. Curtin needed
a fairy godmother to produce the flowers for her
sick boys in the hospitals, she went to an organiza-
tion of cool-headed successful business men, the
Society of American Florists, and there—why
of course she found her Fairy Godmother—I dare-
say I should say Fairy Godfather and put the
word in the plural at that—and the unfailing
supply of flowers was instantly forthcoming.
‘Two places were set aside for collection—
roomy quarters over in the late West Twenties,
which is the stronghold of the wholesale florists
of New York, and there each day the flowers
are brought, great glowing perfumed masses of
flowers, not faded ones, or leftovers, or crushed
or overblown, but just as fresh as can be ob-
tained. ‘The florists, in common with the rest
of us Americans, believe that there is nothing too
good for the boys in the service, and so they gave,
and are giving, freely of their best.
You will please remember, too, that the florists,
this year,.are laboring under some pretty stiff
war conditions. To begin with, their supply
of fuel has been cut down exactly one half by the
fuel administration. There is one big floral
firm out in the Middle West that has a coal mine
right on its own property, in its own back yard, as ~
it were, yet it is only allowed to use fifty per cent.
of what it has been necessary to have in pre-war
years.
It is more than ever difficult for the florists
130
to get their usual replenishing stocks. &
Practically no bulbs have been sent
from Holland this year, whence be-
fore came great cargoes of Tulips
and Narcissus, Hyacinths and Free-
sias. As for Belgium, once a land
of florists and nurserymen—almost all
our potted Azaleas, for instance, were
grown in Belgium—it is now a dreary
flowerless waste, for what Germany
could no¢ steal she has wickedly de- “(%
stroyed. So with fuel cut in half and
these staple stocksnot to be had at all,
the florist has big problems to solve.
Add to these the fact that many,
many people have come to believe
that flowers are a luxury, like taxis
and white kid gloves, and have decided
to cut out buying them. And then think of the
increased cost of labor and greenhouse supplies,
and everything else that a florist has to use, and
you'll see without further explanation that the
florists might be pardoned and excused if they
wouldn’t give away a single flower to any one.
Bur none of these things has stopped their
generosity. When they give them flowers
they are giving the staples of their trade, taking
money from their pockets—but their record for
giving even under the adverse circumstances I
have recited above might well make some of the
rest of us indulge in some pretty soul-searching
thoughts.
I have said that the Florists’ Association is
composed of eminently practical men, and the
way they have assembled and made available
the great quantities of flowers they have given
to this beautiful and touching service proves it.
They were not content with just giving the
flowers—they saw that there must be some way
to give the flowers a little permanence by each
bedside. So it was the florists who gave the
‘tar Dap ra ae
Redtetaeecnetet
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
dozens and dozens of small vases, one of
which finds a place on each little white en-
amelled table, all up and down
the many wards, in the many hos-
pitals, and also the big vases to
hold the one large central bou-
quet. They made the gift, you
see, thoughtfully complete.
If there is any one in the world
who thinks it is a waste of time
and effort to take flowers to the
sick and wounded boys of our
fighting forces, if there are those
why say that “boys don’t pay any
attention to flowers, and think it is sissy
and babyish to have them around’”’—well,
this mythical—I am sure he is only my thi=
cal—person ought to make the rounds of
the hospitals with Mrs. Curtin and her helpers.
At one base hospital, where there are fifty-two
wards, the Flower Ladies make their rounds
through one half the wards in one day and the
other half the next. Some of the boys who have
learned their system—convalescing chaps, who
can hobble about—are sure to waylay the Flower
Ladies and ask for flowers out of turn, so much
do they covet them. They will beg most amus-
ingly for “just one rose,” or a do want a red
Carnation, they smell so good,” and it is hard
indeed to withstand them. “I wrote home
about the flowers you give us and Mother wants
me to thank you for her,” is a tribute that 1s
given over and over and over again.
"THERE was a pretty incident, too, of the
California troops who got the flowers in-
tended for the sailors’ hospital. As Mrs. Curtin
and her aids, with a motor filled with blooms,
were crossing a railroad viaduct they heard the
clamor of voices below and got out to see what
was going on. They leaned over—their arms
filled with flowers—and saw a troop train.
DECEMBER, 1918
At once, of course, the occupants of the troop
train saw the flowers. “Oh throw us down some
flowers,” they begged. The Flower Ladies
complied, willingly, and added magazines and
cigarettes—stripped the motor cars bare of
everything that had been intended for the sailors.
“Where are you from, boys?” they asked.
“California, and we’ ve been on the train for
seven days and were awfly sick of it. The
flowers are like a little piece of home—we’ve got
lots of flowers in California. Thank you and
thank you for them.”
“You’re more than welcome. We were taking
them over to the sailors in the hospital on Ellis
Island,” the Flower Ladies explained.
“Cine dhe sailors one love,” chorused the voices
below, “and ask them not to mind that we got
their treat, just this once. It means a lot to us.’
- So the Flower Ladies went on, empty-handed,
and when they got to the hospital they told the
sailors exactly what had become of the flowers
and cigarettes and magazines, and then—oh,
the good sports they were—every sailor that
could lift his voice joined in a hearty cheer for
the boys that had got their treat and for the
women who had been wise enough to give it to
them.
Yes, the boys like the flowers—even the ones
who say the least about it. It is natural that it
should be so, for it must be a warped and de-
based nature which does not respond to beauty
and color and perfume cunningly combined by
Nature into a blossom. i
But the flowers do much more than give a
merely esthetic pleasure. It has been found that
their presence in a ward has a distinct therapeutic
value. In cases of shell-shock they have been
known to rouse the scattered faculties when all
else has failed.
For three weeks one pitiful lad, suffering with
shell-shock, could not be induced to speak.
Nothing roused him, nothing mattered to him.
fi i © Gndterwoed & nderrocd
Distribution af flowers to soldiers in the Columbia base hospital, New York, under the direction for the National League for Woman’s Service
“
DeEcEMBER, 1918
He had to be fed and tended as if he were a baby.
It seemed as if, unless he could speedily be roused,
that he would be doomed to a life of hopeless
idiocy.
All this happened at a base hospital near
Baltimore, where, in the course of events
came a well known near-by florist to show the
authorities in charge of the grounds how to plant
their flower beds and borders around the build-
ing. It is almost needless to add that this florist
contributed many of the plants which were to
be used in the aforesaid flower beds, and it was
one of these plants, a thrifty blooming Geranium,
which was placed on a table directly in front of
this obstinate shell-shock case.
After a time the vague and wandering eyes fo-
cussed on the lovely plant, and a little glimmer of
reason crept into them. Then, with an enor-
mous effort, he tried to say something—the first
time he had even shown that he could speak. At
last, weakly, he managed to bring out the word
“pretty,” just as as a little lisping child might do
It.
It was the beginning of his recovery—a slow
recovery, but a sure one. His senses reawak-
ened, his appetite came back, his faculties re-
turned to him, and he was brought back to a
world of sanity, to the future of any normal hu-
man being. Think what this means to him and
to his family. Is it any wonder that the doctor
in charge of this hospital claims that flowers are
his best medicine, and declares that a bunch of
flowers in every ward, every day, should be a
recognized part of the hospital equipment?
X= of the Flower Ladies tells a similar story
of a shell-shocked soldier who lay apathetic
on his pillow until a rose was given him. Its
perfume, heavenly-sweet, seemed to interest and
yet to puzzle him. He asked, stupidly enough,
what the flower was and when he was told it was
Inside the hospital the distribution goes on just the same.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
a Rose he called back his lost
memory and said, painfully grop-
ing for the words, ““They—have
—Roses—in France—but—but—
they don’t—they don’t
smell like this.” oy
What did the perfume eG
of that flower recall, do
you think—if not his march
through the streets of some pic-
turesque little town in France,
with tremulous joyful women and
shouting children offering flowers to him and
to his comrades, as they welcomed them for their
share in the great crusadefor liberty? /.sin the
case of the boy in Baltimore, this recognition of
the flower was the beginning of the cure, and
to-day that boy is sound and well.
HERE is an Italian scientist who holds the
theory that more associated ideas are aroused
by the sense of smell than by either sight or sound,
and the recognition of this theory and its appli-
cation to reconstruction work among our returned
fighting men, may prove a tremendous helping
factor to recovery, especially in the shell-shock
cases. Ihe testimony of many physicians who
are engaged in this important work will bear this
out, and looked at from this angle, what added im-
portance is given to the work of the Flower Ladies
and their faithful aids, the florists.
The following letter speaks for itself:
BROAD STREET HOSPITAL
in the City of New York
My prear Mrs. Curtin:
Your kind letter was received and I desire to emphasize the fact
that the donation of flowers to the wounded sailors and soldiers of
our Hospital has had a decidedly beneficia! effect upon them.
The effect is not only psychic, but the pleasure of having received
this offering has a decidedly stimulating effect upon the sick and
undoubtedly shortens their convalescence.
Your good work in personally distributing these flowers has been
very much appreciated by the Hospital, and we desire ‘to second your
efforts to secure a large coal supply for the florists who have so kindly
donated these flowers. With assurances of our sincere appreciation,
I am, Very truly yours
Wm. H. Dierrenpacsn, President, Medical Board.
Mrs. J. Clark Curtin on the right.
131
PERHAPS the most touching
story yet told of this flower
hospital service is that of the
French sailor, a boy of eighteen,
who had been submarined, and
though rescued, was left weak-
ened by the bitter exposure, for
he had been hours on a frail raft
in a wintry sea before he was
rescued. However, he went
back to the service and his ves-
sel one day landed in America.
While he was here pleurisy seized him and he was
sent toahospital. It was in one of these that the
youthful Ally was placed, and there the Flower
Ladies came to know him.
He was a true Frenchman, little Eugene with
all the virtues of that great nation—courage,
sweetness, charm, gayety—and he soon became a
favorite with everyone. All that could be done
for him was gladly accorded, but it was no use.
Day by day his strength ebbed away, but to the
last he smiled and was brave.
And then one day the Flower Ladies came to
the hospital with their fragrant burden of bloom
—but little Jean could not welcome them, for
he had ‘‘gone West” an hour before. It chanced
that they had red Roses that day, great armfuls
of them, rich-colored, fragrant, velvet-petalled,
and with them they gently covered the wasted
body, and a photographer was hastily summoned
to make a picture that could be sent back to little
Euyene’s mother in France, as a token that her
son had not died as a stranger in a strange land
—but among friends who truly cared for him.
The other boys in the ward, the Americans,
received their flowers as usual, but, without say-
ing a word, they limped and hobbled, one by one,
to Eugene’s bier, and gave those flowers to him—
their last tribute. . Those who were too ill to rise,
silently handed their flowers to their stronger
companions and these, too, were added. And Eu-
© Underwood & Underwood , ~
Flowers are given by the commercial florists
132
gene lay there, still, with a little smile on his lips
as befits a sailor of France, as if understanding
and grateful. Perhaps he was. Who knows?
The florists have adopted the appealing slogan:
“Say it with Flowers.”’ I like to remember that
Eugene’s American comrades said with flowers all
that their hearts felt, but which they had no
power to say—sympathy, sorrow, tenderness,
regret, appreciation, that’s what those boys were
feeling and beautifully expressing as they laid
their flowers on the dead boy’s bier.
OE of my most treasured possessions is a
thin little book, bound in faded blue, with
the words ‘‘Floral Dictionary” on the cover in
letters of tarnished gold. My father, who loved
flowers and trees more dearly than people, com-
piled it when he was no older than the little French
sailor, Eugene, whose story I have just told.
Quaint interpretations of the symbolism of flow-
ers, interspersed with bits of poetry, fill its few
pages. I find here, for instance, that the Blue
Canterbury Bell means ‘‘Con-
stancy”’; the Hawthorn, “Hope,
I thee invoke”; the Trumpet
Honeysuckle, “I have dreams of
thee”; the Sunflower, “‘Smile on
me still” —and I smile, too, re-
membering that this was compiled
in the long-ago days when young
gentlemen wore shawls instead ‘of
overcoats; when young ladies were
picturesque in crinoline and flow-
ers; when serenades and romantic
verses were part of every lover’s
siege of courtship. But at the
end of the little volume there is
a couplet, time-spotted on the
yellowing paper:
** All the token flowers can tell
What words can never speak
so well.”
In that simple bit of rhyme we
see the precursor of the more crisp
and expressive, “Say it with Flow-
ers,’ but the feeling and the sin-
cerity of the sentiment have not
changed, in spite of all the years
that have gone since that faded
little blue book was placed, new
printed and bright, in its young
writer's hands.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE.
and I don’t know a thing about New York.”
The Flower Ladies are well equipped to answer
questions like this. No one can estimate the
value of these friendly conversations and these
special services.
And here are some extracts from letters writ-
ten straight from the hearts of grateful boys,
telling in their own way what the Flower Ladies
mean to them.
Were it but possible for you to be here and listen to the remarks
with which your flowers are received by the fellows.
My little ‘‘Thank you”’ embodies the sentiment of seventy-five
appreciative boys, and my regret is that each one cannot tell you as
he would wish to.
Be quite sure, Mrs. Curtin, we very sincerely regard you as one
who loves us and for whom we retain our highest regards.
Jusr a few lines of thanks from the sailors to show our appreciation
for your thoughtfulness in sending us the splendid bunch of flowers
which reached us in good condition. We have them ina large vase
in the sun parlor and they sure make the room look cheery.
I want to express my sincere appreciation for the many kindnesses
received through you from the above association, and want them to
know how the fresh flowers constantly at my bedside made my con-
valescence easier.
In speaking this way I know I’m voicing the feeling of all the men
who have the slightest appreciation for beautiful things, which is
about ninety-nine per cent. while confined to the hospital.
DECEMBER, 1918
I did not intend to do anything in the article
but tell of the Flower Ladies and their work, but
I cannot help asking you, dear gentle readers, if
by chance you haven’t a bushel of apples in the
fruit cellar that you don’t need, or if you couldn’t
share a jar or so of your jams with the boys who
have shared their lives with you?
One day last fall some friend from the country
brought in a great box of specially fine apples to
the N. L. W. S. Headquarters, at 257 Madison
Avenue, New York City (yes, I put that address
there intentionally) and they were promptly
taken to a hospital where there chanced to be a
number of Minnesota boys. You doubtless
know that Minnesota raises much splendid fruit,
so you may be sure those boys know what good
apples are. And the way they fell on those big
rosy New York apples and devoured them and
enjoyed them—well, the Head Nurse in charge
of that hospital pronounced that fruit the best
tonic that had been between their four walls for
many a long day. So if you have any apples
that you don’t know what to do
with, or any pears either, this little
story may serve as a suggestion.
As for the jams and jellies—
please remember that Christmas is
very near and that we all hanker
for something a little festive to eat
during the holidayseason. It goes
_with thetime. In your store room
there may bea jar of cherries,
a glass or two of grape jelly, or
raspberry jam which would
give a bit of Chritsmas cheer
to the Christmas dinnerof a sick or
wounded boy, far from home. If
you are one of these incredible peo-
ple who haven’t a store room to go
to, you can at least make a few
glasses of orangeor grapefruit mar-
malade, and send them in, all fresh
and golden and fruity. It’s the
easiest thing in the world to make
and I’]l send my own recipe, that
never fails, if you haven’t one of
your own. “The expense is negligi-
ble—for a dollar you can make at
leasta dozen glasses of the delicious
| stuff. And the Flower Ladies will
gladly deliver it to the hospitals—
and the boys are guaranteed to
do the rest.
This has been proven many
times over by the response of the © Underwood
& Underwood
In the wholesale florists’ district of New York City there
are daily gifts of flowers for sailors and soldiers in the hospitals.
AS I said, I intended to write
t
=i
boys when the flowers are brought
The National League for Woman’s Service collects and dis-
tothem. Most of these boyscome
from homes, real homes, just like
yoursandmine. They cravethehome atmosphere,
the little feminine touches that Mother and Sister
and Aunt Mary gave. And the unhurried friendly
manner of the Flower Ladies, coming into the hos-
pital ward in their prettiest frocks—for the boys
like it specially when their visitors wear pretty soft
frockswith laces and frills—and fussing aboutwith
the little vases, brings something of real homelike
feeling into the bareness and dreariness of the
hospital—and no matter how efficient and fine a
hospital may be, it is always bare and drear. It
is this friendly home feeling that makes it easy
for the boys to talk to the Flower Ladies. Pic-
tures of the real home-folks are brought out from
beneath pillows and proudly displayed. Con-
fidences are given, and sometimes small special
services are asked. “Could you buy a present
for me to send my mother on her birthday? Ive
been saving my pay and [I intended to get her
something fine and dandy, but here I am laid up.”
Could any one withstand a plea to buy a soldier’s
mother a “fine and dandy” birthday present?
As for the convalescents, they too ask for help
—IJ don’t mean material help, but advice and
direction. “I’m going to get out of here to-
morrow and I[ don’t know where to go. Could
you tell me some place? My home’s in Oregon,
tributes them
Fripay when you come will you please bring me a bunch of long
stem flowers for Miss Johnson, which was our nurse, but she left.
She is that little fat woman you uste (sic) see when you were here
Fridays.
Will close now, hoping to see you Friday.
S° FAR I have spoken of nothing but the
flowers that are taken to the hospitals, and
they are, indeed, the chief thing—with all that
goes with them of good feeling and good cheer.
But the Flower Ladies undertake also to distrib-
ute fruit, and tempting jellies and jams that give
just-the right fillip to flagging appetites. People
who know of this send in barrels of apples—but
never, enough—and endless jars of sweets—but
never enough of these, either.
who has a well-filled preserve closet—and few
of us have not in these Hooverish days—but can
spare a jar or two for a sick soldier or sailor. A
little taste of orange marmalade, or a spoonful of
preserved strawberries, may make all the differ-
ence in the world ina meal. Even the best hos-
pital fare is uninteresting and monotonous.
Or if you wish to “Say it with Flowers” you
can go to the local flower shop and have the
order telegraphed to the Correspondent member
of the Florists’ Telegraph Delivery Association
in the town where the fresh flowers are to be
delivered.
Almost everyone:
his article merely as a chron-
icle of a fine idea, finely achieved,
but it is so strongly borne in on me
that this particular form of service is one in which
all women can easily join, and in which they are sure
to take special pleasure, that I cannot help mak-
ing the suggestion that they doso. It is just that
small added modicum of beauty and sweetness
which every true woman finds so satisfying to give.
When, in August 1914, the Belgians soldiers went
forward to the heroic defense of their home-land
the girls of the city ran out to them and gave
them Roses, which they gaily stuck in their gun
barrels, and as gaily went on to certain death.
When Pershing’s troops first marched through
Paris the women of Paris ran smiling and sobbing
beside them and forced flowers into their hands,
which the boys twisted into the cords of their
campaign hats, or twisted into the buttonholes
of their tunics. fAnd then they marched on to fight
beside the sons and husbands and brothers of the
flower-giving women. So there is a special fitness
that flowers and yet more flowers should be given
to the heroes who have come back to us, broken in
battle, to be nursed to life and health again. I
quote again from my little blue book—compiled
before the day when its writer enlisted in 1861 to
fight, as have our legions of to-day, for freedom:
“The humblest of God’s flowers, made by His art, -
More tenderly than man, speaks to the heart.”
We All Pay the Price
E WERE lunching in a dining car of
one of the large eastern railroads when
the Professor pointed to two sweet
potatoes that had been brought in re-
sponse to my order and remarked: “It’s a pity,
isn’t it, that as long as you are going to pay for
three potatoes you only get two—and that through
no fault of the Railroad Administration or Mr.
Hoover, or even the war.”
“Plant diseases are primarily responsible,” he
continued, “and the other reason for your getting
less than you pay for is the ignorance of people
in general, and of the growers and handlers of the
sweet potato cropof what they do, what the troub-
les are, and how to cure and prevent them. In oth-
er words, twenty-four and a half per cent. of the
sweet potatoes harvested are destroyed, wasted,
before they reach the consumer, by rots that de-
velop under unfavorable storage conditions. An-
other seven and three quarters per cent. are de-
stroyed by diseases that attack the crop in the
field, so that on the whole just about one third of
the sweet potato crop or about 41 million bushels
is lost even though it is planted and ultimately
paid for by people who buy what is left.
“That loss seems serious because it comes
right up against you, but there are many others
like it of far greater importance to the country
and just at present, to our Allies. For instance,
9 per cent. of our wheat crop—on an average
crop basis, 64,440,000 bushels—is destroyed
each year by plant diseases; so it is with two and
a half million bushels of beans 1,866,000 bales
of cotton, 1172 million bushels of white potatoes,
and so on.
“To put it another way, in 1917 the ex-
ports of rye from the United States amounted
to about fourteen million bushels, if it had not
been for one disease—ergot—they could have
been two and a half million more; the same year
smut destroyed twice as much corn as the country
exported; again, if bunt and loose smut had been
completely controlled—as they can be—we
would have been able to send the Allies 33 million
more bushels of wheat than we did. ‘That’s the
story all the way through the list of our farm,
garden, and orchard products.”
Not a very happy condition, isit? But fortun-
ately it is only part of the story, and the rest,
which has to do with the future as well as the re-
cent past, strikes a much, happier note. For it
has to do with the mobilization of the scientists
of the country who are making the study of these
destructive diseases and methods for their control
their life work. Plant doctors, they are called
by most who know them and their work, but
formally they compose the American Phytopath-
ological Society, which is going to play a big part
in the future improvement of our agriculture and
the nation’s increased production of food crops.
In January, 1918, during its annual meeting
this organization decided that it had a real war
work to perform in making it possible for farmers
to harvest more of what they plant and for con-
sumers to obtain more of what is raised than has
been the case in the past—as suggested by the
figures given above. So the War Emergency
Board of the American Plant Pathologists was
created, with Professor H. H. Whetzel of Cornell
University as Chairman and Commissioner for
the Northeast, and seven other Commissioners
representing respectively the West, the Great
Plains, the Northcentral East, the Central East,
the South, Canada, and plant pathologists in
general, the latter representative being an expert
of the U. S. Department of Agriculture. The
speaker in the dining car was Professor
Whetzel.
Already, there have been conferences and an-
other is to be held in Baltimore, December 27 to
January 1, to which a number of foreign plant
pathologists have been invited.
The important fact is, therefore, that in the
war against plant diseases, the United States has
made a tremendous advance in the last twelve
months. This, in view of a statement made in 1914
by a leading German plant pathologist that this
country was then twenty-five years ahead of any
country of Europeinthissubject, meansa good deal.
It remains only to call attention to the fact
that results cannot depend only upon the plant
doctors of the country, but also upon the rest of
the population. Those who are raising crops
must lend their aid by adopting a receptive
spirit toward the facts that are being learned,
and by acting upon the recommendations of the
plant pathologists as to how diseases may be con-
trolled and prevented. And the great mass of
the public should appreciate more clearly the
immense practical importance of the work these
scientists are doing. The country is responding
well to the call for the destruction of the form of
Barberry that serves as host for one stage of the
destructive wheat rust. But this is only one of
the menaces that threaten our food crops, which
are, after all, no less the food crops of all the
civilized world.
But ornamental plants are also victims of dis-.
ease, a fact however, that is not capable of equally
graphic presentation. Yet, for those who would
like to have the highest returns in pure beauty
the chart or table given on page 144 will appeal.
The Next Step for
This Magazine
ONLY poets and philosophers may with safety
construct definite plans for future events;
and yet itis hard to avoid falling in line with the
general practise of retrospect and forward vis-
ions as we cross the threshold of the year. The
winter is indeed the season of the gardener’s dis-
content; there is little actual activity, but much
opportunity for reflection. AAs concerns our-
selves and our readers the pastis past. Butthe
future—?
1919 marks the opening of a new era for the
work of the Garden Magazine. The campaign of
intensive food production followed through the
last two growing seasons has produced the de-
sired results. War Gardens are firmly estab-
lished for victory and for the peace that is com-
ing. Tillage of the soil has assumed a new
relation to the people and as the new day dawns
the garden will rise to a bigger and nobler place
in the life of the people.
A Dip Into The Future
The Garden Magazine, during the coming year,
will interpret this new spirit of the American
home garden, the pleasure as well as the com-
fort that is coupled with the making of the home
and its surroundings. Inaccord with the trend of
the times our pages will be more intimate, more
personal, with greater attention to the details of
materials used and the intrinsic merits of indi-
vidual plants; and while the practical service of
the home plot will not be forgotten—we will con-
tinue the work of introducing high quality var-
ieties in food plants—yet there will be more
attention given tothe niceties of refinement and
artistic development of planting hardy trees and
shrubs; the production of flowers in profusion for
the adornment ofthe home; the delights and joys
of that most personal and intimate ofall feat-
ures, the rock garden; we will take you in inti-
mate walks among rarities of the Arnold Arbor-
etum and other places of note, we will tell you
more about the joys of collecting and of growing
plants for their intrinsic quality and beauty;
* known authorities will discuss the groups in
which they specialize. 7 :
In short, the Garden Magazine having “done
its bit’ in the patriotic arousement of utility
gardening, will now step onward and resume its
even greater responsibility in helping to make
this land give a fit welcome “when the boys
come home.” We dare not show ourselves “run
down at the heel.”’ Our home nurseries are
stocked with home products to meet the need of
new conditions brought about by the disorgani-
zation of Europeanindustries. The people have
mastered the fundamentals of food gardening;
and besides, other agencies are now organized to
“carry on” efficiently. The pendulum swings
back and the cry is for the delights that may be
added to the new gardens. “Man cannot live by
bread alone.’ The new period that is opening
to American horticulture will find its progress
reflected in these pages.
133
The Florists and Wartimes
WEEN, through necessity in our war pre-
parations, various commissions were ap-
pointed by the Government to regulate, accelerate,
or restrict production in various lines of industry,
all engaged in raising plants and flowers were on
the ‘‘anxious bench,” fearing that their business
might be classed as non-essential, and their
products as luxuries of a kind to be tabooed
during the continuance of the war. While the
florist industry, like many others, has been called
upon to make sacrifices, the question of essen-
tiality has not yet been raised, nor is it expected
that it will ever be.
The first intimation that a limit was to be set
upon production came, about a year ago, with an
order that fuel for heating greenhouses would be
allowed only in proportion to half of what was cus-
tomarily necessary to maintain sufficient heat
throughout a winter, determined by an average
consumption in the three seasons preceding the
one to be affected by the order. This meant, of
course, cutting down production fully one half,
by abandoning, as nearly as it could be done,
one-half of the area covered by glass. The out-
look was alarming to an industry the size of
which is hardly realized by the general public,
and the reaction is well presented in a letter
from the secretary of the Society of American
Florists to whom we applied for data. Mr. John
Young writes:
“When it is realized that the estimated area in
the United States so covered and used is about
1,600 acres representing an investment for green-
houses of about $70,000,000 the loss in product
through disuse of buildings is very great. But
added to this must be the loss resulting from
the idle investment. Assuming that an establish-
ment comprise a glass area of 100,000 sq. ft.—
there are very many such—and the valuation
was one dollar per foot, a figure not at all out
of the way, the owner would have a direct out-
of-pocket loss in the interest on an investment
of $50,c00 alone, or $3,000, figured at six per
cent. On this basis it may be assumed that the
florists are losing, approximately, $2,100,000
per annum through out-of-pocket expense alone,
besides the legitimate profit which might be
derived from the operation of the closed houses.
“And this is not all. Many establishments
have been housing enormous stocks of tropical
and semi-tropical plants which cannot be sub-_
jected to low temperatures, and how to take care
of these during winter has been a problem hard
to solve. Of course, stocks have during the year
been reduced as much as possible, but such
growers are confronted with the prospect of large
losses, unless the crowded-out material can be
removed to districts where it can be housed with-
out the necessity for artificial heat.
“But the florists have cheerfully accepted the
situation. Was it not imposed upon them that
we might win the war? Because from the nature
of their business their losses were necessarily
greater under the restrictions imposed than
would be the case in other industries, whose man-
ufactured stock and materials could be easily
shelved or stored without depreciation, have they
given evidence of depressed spirits or forebodings
of ruin? No, indeed! They have taken part
of their products into war work of the human-
itarian kind and are helping to soothe some of the
sufferings our wounded and sick soldiers and
sailors are called upon to endure.
“Early this year, Mr. Frederick R. Newbold,
treasurer of the Horticultural Society of New
York and one of the directors of the American
Fund for French Wounded, approached the
Society of American Florists, through the secre-
tary’s office, with the suggestion that it promote
some organized work covering the supply of
flowers to the sick and wounded returned from
134
THE GARDEN
MAGAZINE
DECEMBER, 1918
overseas and lying in our base hospitals and
other institutions. It had been discovered that
the boys, while well supplied with delicacies and
comforts of all kinds, craved flowers; and there
appeared to be no means of supplying a little bit
of floral cheer through ordinary channels. The
National League for Woman’s Service at that
time had started upon the work of flower distri-
bution, with Mrs. J. Clark Curtin at the head of
its National Flower Distribution Committee, and
after a consultation with her, the aid of the New
York Florists’ Club was invoked and receiving
depots established in New York to which the
florists in and around the city sent daily, and are
still sending, supplies of flowers, the League’s
Committee making judicious distribution.
The Society of American Florists then laid a
proposal before its members and the trade in
general in about seven hundred cities, wherein
the League had branches, that when sick and
wounded soldiers or sailors were located in
institutions within those cities they should pro-
vide flowers for distribution through the League
in the same way. The proposal was heartily
agreed to and the League work has thus been
greatly extended. | :
The suggestive slogan of the Society, “Say it
with Flowers,” has been adopted by the League
also, and the legend is displayed by the League’s
members in their chapter houses, on their motor
cars, and in other ways, so that flowers are
carrying a message of sympathy to helpless
heroes throughout the land.”
The florists are proud in the consciousness of
“doing their bit,” and we feel our readers will
be appreciative that they are doing it effectively.
Exit ther Wars
OF COURSE the war garden goes, but the
garden is still here. The thousands of
“war gardeners,’ having become acquainted with
the joys of the soil, let alone any measureable re-
sult in the household, are not likely to quit. They
will become ‘“‘victory” gardeners in more than
one sense, and just as the victories of battle are
celebrated by music and the waving of flags, so
will the gardener joyfully raise in his domain,
flowers—those symbols of pleasure and peace that
are as music to the soul.
The Christmas Call
qe story of the Red Cross has been told so
many times that we are likely to forget its
significance. There is a great temptation to
put such fundamental things into the back-
ground, to contribute what we think we can af-
ford merely as a matter of decency, and then to go
on earning our pay and spending it, giving our
thought to things more novel or more amusing.
Therefore when you are asked to continue
your help in the organization we feel that no
appeal can be better than the official words of
the War Council. “The moment is now come
to prepare for Peace. Actual peace may come
at any hour; it may be deferred for some time.
Until peace is really here, there can be no re-
laxation in any Red Cross effort incident to active
hostilities. But even with peace, let no one sup-
pose that the work of the Red Cross is finished.
Millions of American boys are still under arms.
Thousands of them are sick and wounded. Ow-
ing to the shortage of shipping, it may take a
year or more to bring our boys home from France.
But, whatever the time, our protecting arms
must be about them and their families over the
whole period which must elapse before the normal
life of peace can be resumed.
“The cessation of War will reveal a picture
of misery such as the world has never seen be-
fore, especially in the many countries which can
not help themselves. The American people
will expect the Red Cross to continue to act as
their agent in repairing broken spirits and broken
bodies. Peace terms and peace conditions will
determine how we may best minister to the vast
stricken areas which have been harrowed by
War, and in this great act of mercy, the heart
and spirit of the American people must con-
tinue to be mobilized through the American
Red Cross.
“On behalf of the Red Cross War Council,
we accordingly ask each member of our splendid
body of workers throughout the land to bear in
mind the solemn obligation which rests upon
each one to CARRY ON.”
tia
“Che OPEN COLUMN
( Readers Interchangesef Exper: iences
Crinums in Kentucky.—How can I grow in
the garden Belladonna Lilies and Crinums and
make them bloom in latitude of Lexington, Ky.?
I am willing to take any amouut of trouble to
cover with glass, ashes, or manure if to be win-
tered in the ground, preferring some such arrange-
ment as a removable cover which would leave
plants to blossom in the garden. In a former
GarRDEN Maaa7IneE article, growing Crinums
successfully in a garden in New Jersey is de-
scribed, but Kentucky is not New Jersey!
Crinums and Belladonna Lilies are my joys.
Having success with Roses and Lilies, I want to
try Crinums.—Olize Nelson.
—
Improvising a Christmas Tree—For. many
years at Christmas time it has been the custom
to put up on Boston
Common a large tree,
decorated with thou-
sands of electric lights,
Can’t get a large enough
Christmas tree? Then build 1t
out of smaller ones!
around which the public would gather and sing
appropriate carols making a scene that left a pleas-
ant memory throughout the year for those who
participated. Last year there was to be an extra
effort to arouse the Christmas sentiment and a
tree ninety feet high was planned. This tree
was of necessity made of 250 smaller trees at-
tached to a central telegraph pole which was sunk
into the ground fifteen feet. The small trees
were held in place by iron; with sockets into
which the small trees were driven and spiked.
The general effect of the work was excellent and
the impression from a distance was of an enor-
mous Spruce tree surmounted by a red star.—
L. J. Doogue.
Viburnum Carlesii, about which a question
appeared in the GarpEN MaGazine a few months
ago, is a Korean plant, and is especially prized
for its fragrant pink and white blossoms, which
come very early in the spnag. It is by far the
most fragrant of all the Viburnums. It was
named from a description given by William R.
Carles, in 3888. Plants from seeds had been
grown ii: Japan, however, several years before
Mr. Carls reported upon the plants found by
him in Korea. This Viburnum was taken from
Japan to Europe in 1gor. It made a strong
appeal to Lemoine, the French hybridizer, and
many plants were grown by him and widely dis-
tributed. Although not nearly so well known
as many of the other Viburnums, Y. Carlesii is
sold by several nurserymen, and is perfectly
easy to grow. It has been thriving in the
Arnold Arboretum, near Boston, for several years,
and seems indifferent to the coldest winters. Not
long ago a gentleman from the western part of
Winnipeg reported that this Viburnum flourishes
there and blooms freely, although the temper-
ature often remains from 20 to 30 degrees below
zero for several weeks. Viburnum Carlesii seems
to require no special treatment or soil. Yet it
is among the most desirable of the early flow-
ering shrubs, both for its beauty and for its sweet
scented flowers. It has never fruited in the
Arboretum, however, and unlike many of the
Viburnums makes no fall display.—E. I. F.
—Viburnum Carlesii is one of the earliest of the
Viburnums to flower—usually about the middle
“of May, and has proved perfectly hardy at the
Arnold Arboretum and promises to be one of the
most beautiful introduced shrubs we possess.
The flowers are produced in terminal clusters,
three to four inches across, and are borne all over
the plant, which is a dwarf compact growing
shrub. Before opening, the buds are a deep
pink on the outside but as they open the inside
of the flowers changes to pure white and indi-
vidually resembles a Mayflower blossom, but the
cluster itself more like that of Rondeletia cordata.
The flowers are all perfect and differ from those
of the Opulus section where both fertile and sterile
flowers are produced. The perfume of the
flowers is intensely sweet and although difficult
to describe is equally as fragrant as Daphne
odora. The leaves are shortly stalked, thick and
soft to the touch, being densely hairy on the
under side, roundish when mature with serrated
margins. It may be rooted from cuttings and
is also sent out by European nurserymen as
standards grafted on Viburnum lantana. The
beauty and fragrance of this plant make it a
very desirable addition for small gardens and it
can be highly recommended for that purpose or
even to plant on rockeries as it flowers when quite
small. Seed was obtained by a Japanese firm
from Korea in 1885 and a living plant was sent
to Kew Gardens by that firm in 1902 where it
flowered in 1906. Viburnum bitchuense is
often sent out by Japanese and European nur-
serymen for Viburnum Carlesii. That one is a
native of Japan and although the flowers are
similar in color and fragrance they are not so large, '
and the plant has a much loose and straggling
habit of growth—/WV.. J. Judd, Arnold Arboretum.
For a Different Magazine.—I approve of the
suggestion made recently by one reader to the
effect that it might be well to print, if not less
matter concerning the vegetable garden, at least
more concerning fine flowers and ornamental
plants in general. It seems to me that other
publications, those that serve what might be
called “‘local’’ communities, and bulletins’ of
the various departments of our Government,
are doing the other work well. Your paper
would, I am confident, be much more accept-
able to the classes of people who subscribe for
it if it should regularly confine itself more to
articles of high character such as those of Mr.
Wilson which appeared in the GarDEN Mac-
AZINE two or three years ago. But my sug-
gestion and implied request are perhaps not
needed and, after doing its “bit” so gener-
ously and magnificently, the magazine will come
back to what seems to me to be its peculiar
sphere, as implied.—F rank B. Meyer, Ohio.
—Thanks for your confidence. We agree
with you too, and can promise an increased
DECEMBER, 1918
weight of “ornamentals” in the coming months.
Not that we feel any apology is necessary or
desired forwhat the magazine has donein the press-
ure of war gardening but “autre temps, autre
moeurs” as our French friends have it. —Ed.
A Soldier in England.—One quiet Sunday
afternoon last fall when stationed at an Amer-
ican military camp in England, I had an
opportunity to see and admire one of the
beautiful English gardens. I had just passed
through one of the long tunnels of cool
shade so common along England’s country roads,
and entered a little village, when I was drawn
across the street to a fence covered with golden
Nasturtiums. I stopped and peered over the
fence into the richest profusion of colors I had
seen since reaching this side. Asters, Snap-
dragons, Sweet Peas, Pansies, and many other
plants, some of which I did not recognize, were
there at their best. I stood for a short time
admiring the display when agroupof childrencame
toward me from the cottageset back of the garden.
Seeing that I was interested in the garden the
children began a discussion of the various flowers
in the planting. They told me how they had
assisted in the making of the garden, and named
all the plants and different varieties in the plant-
ing. I tried to decide why the flowers grew so
well in this garden. I thought perhaps it was the
cool, moist atmosphere, and rich soil that made
‘the garden a success. Still I wondered if that
were all, if there were not something else, some-
thing like love that nature understood and re-
warded, causing the gardens of England to
thrive so luxuriously. As I trudged back tocamp
carrying a huge bouquet of Spencer Sweet Peas
that the children had showered upon me, I was
thrilled with a feeling of joy and extreme goodwill
for the gentle people of England. I resolved to pay
more attention to gardening when the war is
ended if I return alive to America, and I shall
keep in mind always England’s rich gardens and
splendid people—Buford Reid, Corp’l. A. E. F.
A Really Good Looking Native-—The Cow
Parsnip (Heracleum lanatum), though regarded
as almost a weed, is yet a plant that will work
into the garden very nicely, especially in a more
or less wild planting. The effect of its foliage is
akin to that of the Castor Bean; it is about as
rapid a grower, and in good garden soil will
grow almost as high. Being perennial it is
Quite a noble decorative plant is this Cow Parsnip, yet neglected
because a native weed
there to stay. Individually, the greenish white
flowers are insignificant, and parted from the
ae have no beauty; but borne as they are in
road umbels, they do become a_ conspicuous
factor during the plant’s period of bloom which
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
lasts about two weeks. The Cow Parsnip grows
readily from seed and the plants can be moved
at all seasons of the year. Transplanted when
in bloom, or thereabouts, the plant may wilt to
the ground and the new herbage appear to lack
vigor, but the following spring, the root will send
forth as vigorous a top as could be desired. It
requires no protection in the coldest winter and
is drought resistant. Cut down it grows a second
time. It delights in sunlight, but will do well
in partial shade. It is not an aristocrat, but
taken altogether it is a very effective plebeian,
effective as a single plant and strikingly effective
in masses where heavy foliage is required. It is
one of those natives that can add variety and
under adverse conditions a greater measure of
success to our gardens if we will only take the
trouble to understand it.—C. L. Meller, N. D.
“Gardening” in the Trenches——It was in a
quiet sector in the Verdun region. Rain had
been falling and the bottom of the trench was a
mush of mud and puddles. The men who were
not posted at the lookout points were seeking
such cold comfort as they could find in the cramp-
ed dugouts. Somewhere down the trench
there arose sounds of excitement and bantering
remarks. Jack Toomey of Union Hill, N. J.,
thrust his head out from his shelter and thus
addressed an invisible comrade. “It’s a Y. M.
C.A. guy, Bill. Maybe he’s got some smokes or
eats. Hey, you Christian, step a little lively,
will ye? What, no smokes left? Gee, why
don’t you stock up when you come this way?
Any chocolate? No? What have ye got, pray
tell? Stufftoread? Sunday papers? Mutt and
Jeff? Baseball dope? No? Say, what do you
think this is, anyway? A mission study club?
Well give me what you’ve got and run along.”
The harassed Y. M. C. A. worker handed Jack
a magazine and passed on. The doughboy’s
head was withdrawn as he settled himself in as
comfortable a position as possible and silence
reigned for a time. Jack looked at the colored
cover, ran over the pages, and then began at the
back end of the magazine that had been handed
to him. As he perused the pages a puzzled
pucker appeared between his brows, and at
length he spoke again. “‘Say, Bill, here’s a
treat. You'll like this when I get through with
it. It’s a wild and bloodthirsty sheet called
Tue GarpEN Macazine. It’s got pictures in it.
You'll understand some of the pictures, Bill.
Here’s a story called ‘Building a Rock Garden,’
with pictures of the Palisades. Say, Bill, what’s
Achillea tomentosa? Some kind of Mexican
chow do you s’pose? Something like hot tomale?
And Adonis vernalis. That sounds immoral.
And Aethionema jucundum. There’s a whole
page of this dope, Bill. Whatthehell? Must be
in code. Guess I'll pass it up. ‘Pink Daisy
for Next Summer’s Bloom.’? Oh, la, la. On
with the dance. Here’s something in your line,
Bill. ‘How to Judge Vegetables.’ First get
your vegetables; hey, Bill? Guess I'll have to
write for this paper. ‘Producing Food from
Wood and Oil.’ That must be about the Ger-
mans. A wonderful people, Bill, a wonderful
people. Here we have “The Month’s Reminder
for September.’ Sort of a ‘Daily Food’ thing
without Bible verses. Let’s see what’s in it.
Um, yes. ‘Get after onions early.’ That’s
good advice, ain’t it, Bill? “Gather the mulch.’
I'll have to learn that. New slang, I guess. I
wonder what it means. ‘Gather the mulch.
Begin at once to get together the materials which
you will need for mulching later on—leaves, hay,
light manure, and so forth. Keep in a dry place
where they are available as wanted.’ Get it,
Bill? It’s a dictionary of slang. ‘Gather the
mulch’ means make down your bunk. See?
Ah, this ought to be good. “The Garden Movies,
No. 9.’ Pictures, Bill. Reading, too. It says
to use a fork on potatoes. Must be a sort of
book on table etiquette. Hi! ‘All rubbish,
135
decayed vegetable tops and weeds that have
been destroyed should be cleaned up and burned,
as such materials give harbor to hosts ‘of insects
to bother next year.’ That’s trench orders,
Bill. How are the cooties to-day? ‘Cover indi-
vidual tender plants by putting a bag over’
with a picture of two boy scouts and a gas mask.
ow we're getting near where we live. ‘Any
kind of cover over beans will ward off the first
sharp frost.’ Say, Bill, how long is it to chow?
This thing’s getting on my nerves. Any kind of
cover over beans—you bet your life.’ Sud-
denly he cast the magazine from him out into the
mud of the trench. A groan escaped him.
“Say, Bill, you don’t want to read that. The
man that wrote it is crazy. You know what he
said? ‘Expose potatoes to the air before storing.’
Hell!” —Walter A. Dyer.
A forty foot Green Wattle, eight years from seed is a remark-
abie record even for California!
Phenomenal Tree Growth.—The accompany-
ing photograph shows an unusually fine speci-
men of a Green Wattle (Acacia mollissima).
The seed from which this trew grew was planted
in September, 1910, so the tree is just eight years
old. It is over forty feet high, has a spread of
more than 30 feet, and a trunk circumference,
measured a foot from the ground, of 42 inches.
The phenomenal growth is attributed to the
fact that when it was planted there was a melon
patch near to it and a little higher up the hill.
This patch was made by leveling a spot, spread-
ing green manure to a depth of about two feet
and on the top of that good soil. ‘The tree made
- a wonderful growth that summer, but when the
melons were over and the rotted manure desired
for other parts of the garden, the manure was
found to be a labyrinth of fine hair roots. Un-
doubtedly the rich, moist soil had caused the
roots to spread, and thus the tree developed an
extensive root system early in its existence that
had a lasting beneficial effect, and it has con-
tinued to grow and thrive. The manure, of
course, was practically valueless, and was not
used, as it seemed a pity to disturb the tree roots,
but the tree has been many hundred times worth
the expenditure—F. H. Mason, San Diego, Cal.
Kale Asa “‘Foliage’’ Plant.—A new “foliage”
plant that ornamented the entrance to one of
our public buildings this summer, proved to be
an immense kale. It was grown in a large pot
and stood nearly three feet high, its lower leaves
being about a foot long. Its plume-like leaves
arranged in whorls like those of the Norfolk
Island pine make it a surprisingly beautiful plant
worthy of being grown as an ornament as well as
for food.—Mary Rutner, Traverse City, Mich.
Which Flowers Will’ you.Grow?
It’s not very easy to decide!
So the Editor asked a few acknowledged specialists and experts who have actually rendered service in extending
acquaintance with their special favorites to explain just why they worship at their chosen shrines. Perhaps the practical answer for the average
man 1s to dally with all until he gets an inspiration of his own.
Why I Grow Peonies
By A. P. Saunders, whose disinterested labors
(largely unappreciated by those, derive the benefit,
as Secretary of the American Peony Society are his
hobby, that differs from so many hobbies 1n that
the benefits are shared by the whole world. Prof.
Saunders jfinds his real delight in rendering the
service as a recreation from his educational work.
"THE reasons one gives for an enthusiasm
are never an explanation, but merely an
attempted justification of it. One man grows
Roses, another Peonies,
another Dahlias, each
choosing the flower he
likes best, and then later
defending hischoicein a
manner as flattering to
his own intelligence as
he can make it. So, if
I were to say quite can-
didly why I specialized
in Peonies, Ishouldhave
to admit that it is be-
cause | like them better than most other flowers.
Yet I can defend my choice with a number of
most excellent arguments.
In the first place, everyone who has a garden
must be guided by two great limitations, the first
of nature, the second of circumstance.. By the
limitation of nature I mean the conditions of soil
and climate; and by the’limitation of circum-
stance I mean the condition of the pocketbook
which sets a limit to the amount of available
labor in the garden.
Climate is the fundamental consideration,
and the Peony seems to rejoice in a bad climate.
The winters of the far Northwest have no terrors
for it; and Peony enthusiasts are to be found
from Manitoba to Alabama, and from California
to Maine. The only bad climate for the Peony
is one that is too good; that is, too warm and
gentle.
In the question of soil the plant is no less oblig-
ing; if it be allowed some good food it frets itself
very little over questions of clay loam, sandy
loam, humus and the like.
When we come to the labor problem it is, for
those who must keep busy a staff of gardeners, an
objection to the Peony that it requires so little care.
A small garden of a dozen or two dozen Peonies
could be well dug, manured, and planted in three
or four hours; and from that time onward the
plants would ask of their happy possessor not
more than a couple of hours’ work during the
entire year, and would reward him with glorious
crops of bloom for twenty-five years ere the bed
would need re-making! What must be done
each year? The plants should be staked and
tied before the blooming season, and the bed
must be gone over three or four times with the
hoe to keep it clean; and that is all.
Contrast the happy and care-free lot of the
Peony man with the burdened mind of the Rose
grower, for whom the season begins with a gen-
eral pruning, and the tying up of thorny climbers
—hatefullest of jobs—and ends with the laying
down of thorny climbers—still hatefuller—while
the interval is filled with the long round of sprays:
tobacco for thrip; paris green for sawfly; sulphide
for mildew; tobacco again, for aphis this time,
as the succeeding regiments of cooties of all sorts
follow after each other through the summer
months—but I was not asked to tell why I do not
grow Roses!
But, someone says, the Peony has so little
fragrance, and those old reddish purple Peonies
are such an ugly color. To which I reply:
No worse, dear sir, than those old reddish purple
ward with leaps and bounds.
—but I was not going to speak of Roses. And
as to fragrance, one word should be enough if
emphatically uttered. The plant lover who does
not know the odor of Peonies as one of the
choicest of garden scents—does not know the
odor of Peonies.
Indeed it is not too much to say that only the
Peony enthusiast knows the Peony as it exists
to-day; for the older sorts that still survive in
the average garden are quite superseded by the
creations of our time, glorious blooms known as
yet only to the few, flowers of an unrivalled
splendor and perfection. Varieties like Le
Cygne, Thérése, Milton Hill, Richardson’s
Grandiflora, would be incredible if we did not
actually see them before our eyes; indeed they
are incredible in all the months of the year when
they are out of bloom.
And that brings me to say a word on another
fault too often laid at the door of the Peony:
It has such a short season. No, that is the fault
of the planter who does not use the Peonies that
will give him a longer season. Six weeks is not
a short season, and it is not beyond what one may
have, by using a little intelligence. And after a
six-weeks season in a Peony garden, one needs
a rest from the excitement and crowded delights
of the time.
Why then do I grow Peonies? Because in
color, fragrance, size, and form, the peony is of
unsurpassable loveliness; because the plants
reward a little care with generous returns; be-
cause they have no pests and rarely any disease;
because in a climate where only the hardiest
plants survive, the Peony “‘rejoiceth as a strong
man to run a race.”
Why the Sweet Pea?
By David Burpee, head of the well known seed
house that has been so closely identified with the
introduction of the flower to the American public.
TH seemed like a very foolish question
at first to me ““Why the Sweet Pea ?”? Sweet
Pea, most popular of Annuals, no other comes
near to approach it! The flower that I have ad-
mired since I have been old enough to admire a
flower. Why the Sweet Pea? J know now
that the answer to that question is not entirely
on the surface.
I asked myself, Why the Sweet Pea above
other flowers? Is it the ease with which the
Sweet Pea can be grown? Is it the long stems
that make it so showy
in the garden and so
admirable for cutting?
Or is it the wonderful
colorings of the flower
itself? No, it is none
of these alone! It is
something deeper—a
hidden something in
the Sweet Pea.
The Sweet Pea makes
its appeal through the
emotions not through
reasons. So how can
I answer ‘‘Why the
Slweet Pea?” Sweet
Pea, fairy flower, that
waves in the garden
In the spirit of its delicate
free from restraint.
beauty it is the flower of the artist—and still it is
the flower of democracy, commonly called ‘““The
Poor Man’s Orchid.”
Steadily and surely the Sweet Pea has grown
in popularity for years past, and with the intro-
duction of the waved Spencer type it went for-
During these
136
few years of the twentieth century the Sweet
Pea has risen from its rank with other annuals
to take a place among the most wonderful of all
flowers—the Orchid and the Rose.
It is true the Sweet Pea cannot approach the
almost lazy luxuriousness of the Orchid. Nor
can it equal the rich warmth of the Rose. The
beauty of each is unique. Each is supreme in a
field of its own—and none can surpass the others
because they do not live in parallel planes.
Orchid, oriental, spirit of the fatalist! Rose,
rich in its warmth, spirit of the materialist!
Sweet Pea, aesthetical, spirit of the spiritualist!
In its own beauty the Sweet Pea is supreme and
yet it is within the scope of your garden and it
can be grown quickly from seed. ‘That after all,
perhaps, is the answer. The Sweet Pea is the
finest there is in flowers and it can be grown in
your garden quickly from seed.
Why I Grow Dahlias
By Maurice Fuld, who years ago stirred up the
latent interest in this flower that is largely responsi-
ble for the present day popularity.
‘4
HEN one is as
intense a flower
lover as [ am, it is
rather difficult to ex-
plain one particular
kind championed more
than any other. Of
course, we all have our
favorites.
I chose the Dahlia
when quite young, and
rather amateurish, be-
cause then the Dahlia
was to me—as it is to inillions of other amateurs
right now—the flower with which we can try
our skill to the exact same extent as the profes-
sional gardener does with the Chrysanthemum.
And really, the two flowers have many char-
acteristics alike, only that one to be reared to
perfection must be raised in a hothouse, the other
all out of doors.
I champion the Dahlia because I love it for
its easy (?) culture (easy, when you know how)
I love it because it knows no limit as to forms
and shapes. I love it, because it is so grateful
for the attention we give it. From August
until frost it makes our gardens glorious.
I love it, for as a child in the garden, it is most
playful, you never know just what it will do for
you; and then it is such a perfect pal—it will
smile and play with you and give you hours and
hoyrs of joy.
he Dahlia offers more opportunities for the
amateur than any other flower I know of; he can
do more with it than the professional and invari-
ably he has the professional all beaten to a stand-
still; he can with ease breed and cross and produce
any quantity of new Dahlias all within the short
space of one year, and to my mind this is the cli-
max of joy in a garden.
There is something about the Dahlia that is
irresistible. If you begin to grow one or a
dozen and grow them with an interest you will
become so attached to the Dahlia that you will
grow 50 the next year—a hundred the year after.
Dahlia growing takes hold of you with a grip.
Joy and happiness from the garden depends on
the results of our garden due to our own efforts
and no one was ever more proud or happy than
I, when I could cut a big bunch of some of my
choicest Dahlias and bring them to the city to my
friends, for it made them all happier. And do
you know, the happy faces of my flowers, often
changed the atmosphere of an entire railroad car.
DEcEMBER, 1918
Why I Grow Irises
By B. Y. Morrison,
Landscape Architect and
a widely traveled student
of gardens here and
abroad. His acquaint-
ance with the flower 1s
long and keen.
GROW Irises _be-
cause I began years
ago and now I cannot
stop. And because I
have been loving them for years, I find some diffi-
culty in telling just why they are my choice above
other flowers, for choice always follows, or at least
suggests, comparisons, judgments and rejections,
and no person who regards his hobby with af-
fection can offer an unbiased presentation of its
“merits nor does he find pleasure in assuming,
even for the moment, a position in which he may
appear to cast discredit on other less loved
flowers.
The arguments in favor are these: Culturally,
the problem is as simple or as difficult as the col-
lector may desire. In matters of variety, there
is a wide range both in species and in horticul-
tural forms. In return for labor, the rewards
are great. Counted in amount or period of
bloom, the comparison is favorable with any
perennial; in diversity of color, there is no equal,
though some colors known to man are missing;
in value for the garden picture, it has few rivals;
and for decoration in the house certain forms are
invaluable. So in all it measures well, using the
standards which should beapplied to any candidate.
My personal pleasures in Irises are these.
First there is the pleasure which comes to any
collector. This may be dismissed without dis-
cussion, explanation or defense. Secondly, there
is a pleasure which I find in the plant judged
from the standpoint of design. There is a
dignity and precision in the splendid fan of
leaves with their clean vigorous curves, in the
sturdy stem, carried with assurance, and in the
flowers, lightly poised and of exquisitely delicate
tissue. Thirdly—there is a pagan pleasure to be
had from the mass of color. From velvet purples
through clarets and garnets to pink and which
turning through palest green- and gray-whites
to yellows and gray lavenders—surely this is a
lavish palette. Then givem those colors in a
tissue which cannot be matched in any other
bloom, so that sunlight and shadow play magic
with it—and you have yo end of riches. And
lastly there is the pleasure which has come in
the raising of seedlings—a very new pleasure for
me, but one which I have enjoyed by proxy, for
some time.
Therefore, I am quite content that my Roses
should be few and my Peonies and Lilies fewer
still, even though the trio be given the old tradi-
tional honors, and find my great pleasure in quan-
tities of Iris—with their wealth of color, their
subtle perfume, and their festival recurrence
which makes mid-May, all poetry.
Why I Grow Roses
By Robert Pyle, whose championship of this
flower led to his election as President of the Ameri-
can Rose Society. He
has long been associated
with the distribution
of garden Roses through
the Conard & Jones
Co. of which he 1s now
the active head.
HE Rose needs no
champion; she
needs but to be pre-
sented. Her sway is
unquestioned. She
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
speaks an universal language. Throughout the
ages, from the childhood of the race of man,
she has been his companion. In every land and
in all generations she has graced his life in its
most momentous events.
When words fail us utterly she speaks our
thoughts. Please note for a moment the sig-
nificance in these blossoms plucked from the
thorny pathway of the past few months:-
1. From the Philadelphia Bulletin of October
19th, regarding the liberation of a French City,
we read:
Litre Pays Trisute To British Sorprers—Historic scene as
City Welcomes—Troops representing the Fifth Army—Showers
Roses on Men—“As General Birdwood rode into the city at the
head of his troops the crowds broke loose in a,tremendous ovation.
The members of the British staff were showered with bouquets
along the route and upon entering the square were thoroughly
smothered by the avalanche of Roses thrown by women.”
2. In a news letter from my friend, Joseph J.
Lane, recently on the staff of GarpEN MacazineE
he writes:
As we lay resting by the side of the road, from out of a group of
children that had gathered, there came running toward us a little
French girl, her arms laden with flowers. She passed from group
to group of us, distributing her precious burden, so we all might
share it, when suddenly she stopped in front of the writer, and
handed him a rose. “A r-o-s-e, the flower of beauty and fragrance—’
one of God’s trusted messengers of peace, tranquility, happiness.
And I too suddenly became calm—the weight of the pack on my
back passed from my thoughts—the perspiration of the long hike,
the excitement of the hour—all went from me and as I looked at the
flower in my hand I was intensely happy—I had met someone I
knew—and understood.
Of all the flowers, Roses seem to me most com-
panionable. To the traveler they “‘stand for
home.” Is there any one throughout our Nation
who does not need ROSES—I would like to help
row “enough to go ’round.”
g
Why I Grow Chrysanthemums
By Charles H. Totty, who as a progressive
florist needs no introduction. He specializes
tm novelties because he likes to be up to date; and
is also a leader among his fellows as President of
the great trade organization, the Society of
American Florists.
WELL firstly, because I. love them and
have done so for many years, and conse-
quently they take up such a large part of my
life that were they now taken away I would feel
their loss very keenly. More variable in form
and color than any other flower they present a
bewildering variety to select from. Who, for
instance, is not familiar with the hardy types
blooming profusely outdoors all fall, long after
everything else in the garden has been destroyed
by frost? and the wonderful specimens of horti-
cultural art in the exhibitions, the aristocrats of
the flower-world; flowers larger than a man’s
head and tinted every imaginable color except
blue. See them accompanied by their army of
half-brothers in the splendid Japanese Anemone
types with their fluffy centres and weird petalage;
with the new Singles as the sisters, which are
such an advance over the types of a few years
ago, and finish with the little Pompons as the
babies to complete the family. See the marvel-
ous plants such as have been shown at the exhibi-
tions in New York, covering not feet but yards
and figure these wonderful results are but one
season’s growth and then ask again—who does
not love the “’Mum’”?
The odor is clean and pungent, healthful and
refreshing, not a heavy languorous fragrance to
lull the senses, but a keen flavor that is delight-
ful and invigorates like a good walk on a frosty
morning. One can grow Mums without a green-
house and fine blooms too, if given a fair chance
in the open garden. ‘They repay the grower hand-
somely for the time and care spent on their
culture.
I have been asked many times if I made a suc-
cess of growing Chrysanthemums. If success
is to be measured by money as the only yardstick,
I would say No! but if a congenial occupation,
plenty of friends with the same tastes and a
solid enduring pleasure and satisfaction are any
guarantee of success then am I richly blest, for
137
during the flowering
season my friends from
all parts of the country
drop in and see me and
the Chrysanthemums
and the results of my
many years’ patient
work are gratifying
indeed. Ask any of
the soldiers in any of
the Camps, who have
received some of our
"Mums, if they liked
them, and you will
be surprised at the
answers you receive. ;
Why do I grow "Mums, indeed?
The Appeal of the Gladiolus
By Mrs. A. H. Austin, one of our most successful
growers and whose devotion to her favorite flower
finds frequent expression in singing its praise in
print and in adorning the exhibition talk with the
tangible evidences of her cultural skill.
HAT is its charm? Come with me to my
garden. The first leaf blades are before
us— standing erect like soldiers of a fairyland—
passing in successive changes to a mass of waving,
shimmering green in wonderful light reflection.
As roseate hues of dawn give promise of a per-
fect day, so the early buds assure us of a season of
beauty unsurpassed. I believe I may truthfully
say, unequaled, for what other flower combines so
many virtues? Wonderful coloring, stateliness
of spike, massiveness of bloom and marvelous
substance are only a few of its valuable qualities.
Its range of color, from pure white to almost
black, covers every known shade. Some possess
a glistening, sparkling lustre, unspeakably lovely
by day, and enhanced by artificial light, while
others seem of softest, richest velvet. The vari-
ous forms are interesting and beautiful. The
wide-open almost saucer-shaped, the pleasingly
ruffed, and the modestly hooded, are some of the
most common, and varying in size from one to
six inches in diameter.
The spike too, has been transformed, and where
once were only short stiff spikes, we now have the
taller heavy spike, and still newer ones of such
tall graceful slenderness that the word spike
seems surely out of place.
Do you wish to share this exquisite loveliness
with a faraway friend? .It may easily be done for
the substance is such that if cut when the buds
show color they can be shipped long distances and
when unwrapped and placed in water, will open
to the topmost bud. ‘The friend may take them
to her wounded soldier who, in his helplessness
will appreciate their silent cheer. In no place
is this beautiful flower more useful and helpful
than in the sickroom. But its uses are legion.
We see varieties that are tall and stately carrying
‘immense blooms of heavy substance and brilliant
coloring, especially valuable for planting among
shrubbery, and for otherlandscape uses, or, in strik-
ing contrast, dainty
fairy-like blooms suit-
ableforthecorsageofthe
débutante. For house
decoration there is a re-
finement and graceful-
ness in slender whiplike
stems weighted with ex-
quisite blooms many of
whichareinopen bloom
at the same time.
This abundance of
beauty may be in the
homes of all because of
their imexpensiveness
and ease of culture.
They will grow and
bloom in any good gar-
den soil.
Dwarf Evergreen Collection where the visitor may get acquainted with and compare these
pygmies
In the Shrub Garden the duplicate specimens are arranged “ordinally,”’ for convenience of study
° (Hydrangeas)
Seen in the Arnold Arboretum Tr. a. navemever
[Eprror’s Note:
of THE GarpEN Macazine by the Director.
The story of the foundation and general purpose of this splendid institution, located on the outskirts of Boston, was told im a recent issue
As a centre of introduction and distribution of many notable hardy trees and shrubs that now adorn our best
public and private gardens the Arboretum has been long recognized as the Mecca for the progressive horticulturist traveling near tt.
tree and shrub hardy in its climate, the Arboretum is full of living and continuous interest.
Growing as 1t does every
But, unfortunately, not everybody can visit it at all times, and
in order to interpret in some degree to the plant lovers of America what the Institution offers, Mr. Havemeyer has undertaken to present in these pages
a series of notes on the conspicuously attractive plants in season.
or particular groups as they appeal to the horticulturist.
The present article is but introductory.
Mr. Havemeyer is not only an appreciative onlooker, but he is also akeen and skilful gardener
Subsequent articles will deal with special plants
and grows at his Long Island home one of the most remarkable collections of hardy trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants to be found in the country. His
appraisals are based on both observation and practical trials.] 5
NEVER can visit the Arnold Arboretum,
at Jamaica Plain, Boston, without being
lost in wonderment and admiration. Do
you love trees and shrubs and yet do not
journey thither you have something to live for.
In this wonderful museum of woody
plants you will find practically every
hardy tree and shrub from every corner
of the globe, not only arranged as a col-
lection for intimate study but set out in
acres of beautiful park—trees and
shrubs planted as nature intended in
their natural settings. Dr. Charles S.
Sargent, who planted them has proved
himself to be one of the greatest of land-
scape gardeners for he has so used his
material that really it does not matter
at what season of the year we visit
the Arboretum there is always some-
thing of interest, even in the depths of
winter with the snow on the ground.
What is more beautiful than the winter
scene of Hemlock Hill with the Kalmias
and Rhododendrons growing at its base
and in the distance the grays and deep
greens of the Spruces, Pines, and Firs.
My visits to the Arboretum are many,
but every time I gothere I am im-
pressed by its beauty and charm and
always find something new to interest
me. Perhaps the time that most ap-
peals to me is in May when the Crab-
apples, Cherries, and Flowering Pears
are in bloom. Have you really ever
seen them in their glory? If you have
not, it does not make any difference
what part of the United States, or I
might even say what part of the world
you live in, a trip to Boston would well
repay you for the trouble and expense.
Indeed, it is a great pity the Arnold
Arboretum is not better known, for it
is doing a national work in its benefits
to landscape gardeners and nurserymen
of the country. Here new discoveries
are tested for hardiness with the ac-
knowledged “hardy” things of the
world and as I wander around the de-
lightful roads and paths I wonder why the park is
not crowded with those who love the beautiful
that God has created to fill this sad but wonder-
ful world.
The purpose of the Arnold Arboretum is to
Professor Charles Sprague Sargent, Creator and Director of the Arnold Arboretum,
to whose foresight, ability, and untiring energy horticulture owes an untiring debt
138
collect and test every tree or shrub as to its
hardiness and value for America. Trees and
shrubs are often tested here that come from much
warmer climates and it is interesting to note that
many things from southern localities prove hardy.
Large sums of money have been ex-
pended in the work of exploration and
research, sending out plant collectors to
every part of the world where there is
any chance of procuring new material.
At the present moment Mr. E. H. Wil-
son, one of the most renowned and best
informed of plant explorers, whose name
is not unfamiliar to GARDEN MaGazInE
readers, is in Korea, collecting seeds and
material for the museum, and he will
doubtless bring back many interesting
things, up to the present time unknown.
In 1914 Mr. Wilson spent nearly a year
in Japan mak2i¢g a collection of the won-
derful Flowering Cherries for which that
country is justly famed, and brought
back more than seventy varieties of this
beautiful tree, that have been added to
the collections of the Arboretum, and
may be seen growing there.
Here can be studied with intelligence
the habit and growth of every hardy tree
and shrub. Many of the specimens now
more than forty years old were grown
from seed sown on the spot, so it is com-
paratively easy to determine the actual
merits of the species as to the habit of
growth, position in which it will flourish,
and its value from every standpoint.
One point that impresses me on my
many visits is the quantity of beautiful
and valuable shrubs and trees growing
here that are practically unknown in
private gardens and which for lack of the
nurserymen’s initiative can be found in
hardly any nurseries. Perhaps one day
horticultural America will awake. I
hope so indeed.
In future articles I will try to tell
something about many of the more at-
tractive and interesting plants judged
from a garden view point.
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eae re a ee BakY ols nae, ae Poet ee 4 :
Driveway in the Arnold Arboretum along the foot of the far famed Hemlock Hill, a natural woodland fringed at the base with Kalmias and Rhododendrons in a rich variety
The Arnold Arboretum in winter. Practically the same view as above but taken a litt e to the left to get the evergreen foliage and the snow
AAA
139
Wp
dd
MUM Ld
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EAT~ a
The me i ae Gardens” Year Ahead
By CHARLES LATHROP PACK,
E HAVE not yet begun to fight!” will
be the New Year message of the home
food producers of America to the world.
As they turn the corner into 1919 the
garden patriots of the United States, who accom-
plished so much in the first year after this coun-
try was in the war and again in the past season
of 1918, will find that their biggest year 15 ahead.
The world will need more food during the next
twelve months than ever before. The War
Gardens of 1918 must be the Victory Gardens
of 1919. They must help to complete the victory
which our arms have begun. There must be no let
down but instead an increased effort to supply
the demands of a hungry world. Food reserves
will be short for years to come and reconstruction
work will call for industrial and economic labors
on a stupendous scale compared with which some
of the vast tasks carried out during the war will
seem relatively easy.
MORE and more there has been a calling of
workers into the mills and factories of the
country. This has included women as well as
men; and hundreds of thousands of women have
gone into manufacturing, mechanical and mer-
cantile pursuits. In some cities of the United
States alone this has run up into the tens of
thousands. In addition to the enormous num-
bers taken by the various drafts there has been
a heavy and steady drain away from the food
production fields of the country to the industrial
centres. This places an extra burden on the
sources of food supply which even with improved
machinery and methods they are not able to
meet to the full. Home gardens in city, town,
and village must make up the deficit.
The problem of feeding all these workers at
home is a big one. They cannot maintain their
strength and perform their duties unless they are
well nourished. But a still bigger problem is
that of supplying the growing demands of the
millions on the other side of the ocean who have
been relased from the thrall of hunger and star-
vation which they have been facing for three or
four years past. They have been living on scant
diet, barely enough to sustain life, for a long
period. Their own supply is exhausted. They
must depend on the rest of the world, and Tee
on the United States, to furnish the food which
has so long been denied them. It will be years—
five to ten—before they can regain what they
have lost during the war, before their business
and their industry can be reorganized and before
they can take a large part in helping to raise
their own food. Food, therefore, will be the big
problem of the world for years to come.
ALL parts of the globe are being ransacked in
an effort to find new sources of supply and
food which will fill the deficit. Plans for shipping
are being adjusted with this thought in mind.
Trene McMahon of Missoula, Mont., who much to her sur-
prise carried off the garden prize in her city. Then she
Won a canning prize and was
awarded a National Capital
Prize Certificate by the Na-
tional War Garden Commis-
sion which was still a greater
surprise. If you wanttoknow
the joy of gardening for the
first time just ask this little
Miss
What was accom-
plished by the Gar-
den Clubs through-
out the country can
never be visualized;
but this from Minn-
_ eapolis is typical
Every hillside put
to work that the
American Rolling
Mill Company of
Middletown, Ohio,
could find. War
Gardens are planted
and cultivated by
the workers of the
Armco Plant
140
President, National War
Garden Commission a
Franklin K. Lane, Secretary of the Interior, has
been working on a broad national scheme looking
to the placing of large numbers of returned sol-
diers on new land which can be developed. It is
probable that international arrangements in
regard to the purchase and distribution of food
supplies will continue for a long period after the
close of the war. These and other plans which
are being discussed to meet and solve the serious
situation, show how vital to the world’s welfare
and of how long duration will be the food question.
N this work the Victory Gardener will be a
big factor. His importance cannot be over-
estimated. His duty to the world is clear. He
must continue to produce large quantities of
“Food F. O. B. the Kitchen Door.” Millions
are depending on him for part of their daily
bread. Without his help millions of them will
starve and other millions go hungry. There
have been famines of peace as well as famines of
war. In normal times they did not make the
headway and devastate as large portions of the
world as might easily be the case when reserve
stocks have been practically, if not entirely, ex-
hausted for months or years. It is necessary,
therefore, to make every garden count in the
days to come. The motto of every home food
producer in the United States in 1919 should be:
“T will make my vegetable plot a Victory Garden
to help feed the world.”
Ten million citizens of Belgium and Northern
France, few of whom have had a square meal
since the German occupation in 1914, must be
given bread and meat. These victims of German
oppression must have sufficient nourishment in
order that they may rebuild their factories and
their shell-torn cities and restore their ruined
farms. Without help from the United States
they cannot do this. There are other millions
throughout Europe and Asia who also look to
these shores with eager, outstretched “ERG,
praying for the food they need.
Victory gardening in the United States in 1919,
DEcEMBER, 1918
therefore, should. exceed by
a big margin the “war gar-
dening” of 1918 and of 1917.
The need for food was great
then. Its needs next year
will beeven greater. ‘There
should be more gardens and
they should be more pro-
ductive. The NationalWar
Garden Commission found
very little “slacker land” in
our cities and towns last
season. There was scarcely
a community anywhere that
did not have a relatively
large proportion of war gar-
dens. They were every-
where. You could not put
your finger down on the
map’ without touching a
town that could boast of
its fine gardens. The
estimate of the Com-
mission, based on a
careful nation-wide
survey, showed that
there were 5,285,000
war gardens. Next
year there should be a
larger number of Vic-
tory Gardens. Every
city should strive to
outdo its record.
Many cities which set
out in the spring of
1918 to have a certain
number of back yard
and vacant lot “muni-
tion plants’ surpassed
the figure set, just as
they did in the Liberty
Loan, Red Cross, Y.
M. C. A., and other
drives. Let the motto
be: “ Double the Gar-
dens.” Follow Emer-
Myron T. HERRICK
son’s advice and “hitch your wagon to astar.”
Then when the returns are in at the end of the
next season it will be found that the American
people have planted 8,000,000 or 10,000,000
Victory Gardens instead of 5,000,000. This will
be a record to be proud of.
SOME of the marvelous accomplishments of
the United States, its stupendous task in
preparing, equipping and maintaining overseas
an army of millions, already is well known to
the American public. More of these achieve-
ments will be revealed in the months and years
to come. When all is told it will be a story
which the nation will cherish as long as freedom
lasts. The home food
producers will want a
part in this wonderful
bi;
account. Already they oculs of the Texas Portland Cement
Company think of its importance
PERCIVAL S.. RIDSDALE,
Secretary and Treasurer
© Harris & Ewing
Food! Food! Food! That is the
question. And this is what the
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE : 141
J. B. Wuite, of Kansas
© Harris 5S Ewing
CHARLES LATHROP Pack, Organizer and
President
(Above) JAMES WiLson, Ex-Secretary of
Agriculture
All these gentlemen are active in the National War Garden Commission which has so thoroughly made good less.
have performed a most important patriotic
service. What they have done entitles them to
the world’s lasting praise. But they will not be
satisfied until they have done their all, until
they have added to their laurels won in their war
gardens the palm which will be bestowed upon
them for excellence in their Victory Gardens.
“The Furrows of Freedom”’ are just as impor-
tant as the “Frontier of Freedom.”’ ‘‘Outpost’’
of the General Electric Company at Schenectady,
INFOY?
Vere McGowan who won first
place with his Hubbard squashes
in Polk Co
find Vere
Plan now for 1919 in a
garden way; and plan big.
That is the best advice to
the Victory Gardeners of the
United States. Plan early
by studying out methods
which : will increase your
area and the amount of your
product. Every square foot
counts; and thousands of
them put together make
acres. Perhaps your past
experience or yourstudy has
shown how you can make
two onions grow where only
one grew before. The more
food you can raise, the bet-
ter. It will be found that
muchearly planningisworth
while. A young officer once
asked his commanding gen-
eral what he considered
the most important
principle in military
tactics. “‘Study your
ground!”’ was the in-
stantljaneous reply.
That applies to garden-
ing as much as to a
military campaign.
Every Victory Gar-
dener in the United
States, therefore,
should sit down with
paper and pencil and
carefully figure out just
how he can plant his
garden to obtain the
maximum results. That
is what the nation and
the world wants next
year—‘maximum_ re-
sults.” Let no one be
satished with anything
After reading a
letter like the following
no one should be satisfied with anything less. Itis
from Mrs. Robert C. Thompson, of East Norwalk,
Conn., to the National War Garden Commission.
There was a service star at the top of the letter
which reads:
“Will you send me your book on canning and
drying? I have a small garden and want very
much to preserve all surplus vegetables and save
a little for the coming day. I have two sons, all
the children that I have, at the Front and I
must do all that I can to help our boys who are
fighting in a just and right cause.”
No further word should be necessary to make
every man, woman and child in the United
States who has a bit of land which he can
cultivate, do the ut-
most to make it yield
every possible pound of
food.
City, Mo.
FAIRFAX HARRISON
© Harris SF Ewing
unty, Oregon. Puzzle—
OR a long service and ease
of culture, there is, after
all, nothing much more
satisfactory than the old
favorite Oxalis where a flowering
basket plant is wanted. Here is
a suggestion—buy a dozen bulbs
of one of the large flowering varieties and
start them in humus or fibre in a hanging
basket, or bulb pan. They will not be in
bloom by Christmas, but will be nicely started and
during the early spring months will give a con-
tinuous supply of bloom.
Particularly Christmasy in appearance, for a
non-flowering hanging basket plant, are the
“asparagus ferns” plumosus and Sprengerii.
Few plants are better for the house than these,
and they will remain in good condition through-
out the year and will continue to make quite a
growth for several years to come.
How About Azaleas This Year?
ZALEAS, of course, have been one of the
standard plants for use as Christmas gifts
for many years. This year, however, owing to
the war, they will be few and far between. There
are still a few being imported, but, of course, the
number is limited. The biggest trouble with
Azaleas is that most people will not give them
water enough during the flowering period, nor
a cool enough temperature. The most satisfac-
tory plant to use in place of an Azalea is a large
sized Cyclamen just coming into bloom. The
Cyclamen is a cool-temperature plant, and, if
anything, better than the Azalea for the average
house conditions. And then there are the Prim-
roses, so well known that no description is neces-
sary.
Palms and Ferns
ALMS will be plentiful this season. But
in buying, one should be careful to select
only those kinds capable of with- }
standing ordinary house temper-
atures. The Kentias, Latania,
and Phoenix Roebelenii are, on
the whole, the most satisfac-
tory. The last being much
more decorative and graceful in
appearance than the others. Its
many good points make it, all
things considered, the best of
all Palms for the house.
Ferns will be in good supply
this year, as they have been re-
placing many warmer tempera-
ture plants. But stick to the
safe kinds in making any pur-
chases for house use. The
Maidenhairs and other tender
varieties will not make satisfac-
tory Christmas gifts no matter
how charming they may look in
the florist’s window. One of the
many types developed from the
older “ Boston” fern will be the
most satisfactory for growing in
the living room.
No selection of Christmas
plants will be quite complete
without some mention of Ficus
elastica—better known as the
Rubber plant. This has not the
quality of novelty, it is true.
3ut it has so many other good qualities, that it is
always a “safe bet.” And one is not restricted
to the common variety, as the “fiddle leaved”
(Ficus pandurata), which is quite distinct from
the other in appearance, is now generally ob-
tainable.
ANYBODY contemplating the use of plants
for Christmas gifts, may rest assured that
they will be received as gladly as ever. Nor are
the prices for this class of plants as high as might
be expected as the result of the order allowing
greenhouses a limited amount of coal. With
If you would have plants in your home, give them a little thoughtful care.
air, and ventilation really are essential. Of course some plants are sturdier than others
| BuyaDollars Wort
Plants That Will Stand House Conditions
F, F. ROCKWELL
some classes of plants, in fact, the result has been
just the opposite, because growers have sold to
dealers very liberally to avoid having too much to
carry through the winter.
In selecting gift plants for the present time,
one should look for the things which are
1. Hardy enough to stand house conditions
2. Resistant to dust and dry atmosphere.
3. Having a long season and preferably,
remaining throughout the year or capa-=
ble of flowering again next season.
It is by no means impossible to select plants
that will fulfill these conditions.
In addition to selecting the right kind of a
plant, attention should also be given to the in-
dividual specimen. Many people make the mis-
take of judging by size alone. A young plant,
in active thrifty growth, recently potted up—but
having been potted up long enough to have be-
come thoroughly established—will give very much
more satisfaction than a large, old plant which,
though still in good condition, may have ceased
active growth. What are known as “‘made up”
plants—that is several small plants in one pot,
to give the appearance of a very, large thrifty
plant—are usually not as satisfactory as single
plants. If the plant wanted is a flowering kind,
take care to get a specimen which is just begin-
ning to come into bloom. It will not only carry
better and arrive in much more perfect condi-
tion, but the plant itself will withstand the shock
of being moved about and being set in place in a
new environment better if it has not yet come into
full bloom.
Room for Personal Preferences
we are the plants that best comply with
the requirements? A few have already been
suggested; but they by no means exhaust the list.
Indeed there are several plants which comply more
or less with the conditions; but which will be the
best to select in any particular case, will, of
course, depend both upon circumstances and
142
aking the CHRISIMAS Dollar
Direct sunshine, fresh pure
personal taste. To take the ques-
tion of hardiness first, if one
wants something to withstand
the. most adverse conditions,
something which almost literally
“can’t be killed,’ under ordi-
nary treatment, nothing is bet-
ter than the old, but not universally
known, Aspidistra. While not as pic-
turesquely graceful as some of the Palms,
nevertheless its long, smooth leaves springing
from the soil, and attaining a length of two
feet or so, give it a somewhat tropical appear-
ance, and a very decorative effect.
While the green Aspidistra is the one most
popularly known, the form with variegated
leaves, is a little brighter in appearance. In
addition to its other good qualities, the Aspi-
distra increases very readily by simply dividing
the old roots and re-potting or re-planting.
A Christmas Tree for All the Year Around’
ONE of the most beautiful of all the Christmas
plants and general house plants, the Nor-
folk Pine (Araucaria), will be hard to get this
ear—but, for that reason, especially prized.
n taking care of this plant, most people make
the mistake, because it is offered at the holiday
season with a lot of tender, hot-house plants, of
assuming that it requires a very high tempera-
ture. Quite the contrary is true, a cool, even
temperature being what is needed, with very
little water during the winter months when
growth is nearly dormant.
Cherries for Christmas Morning!
"T HERE is one old favorite that has been out
of favor in some quarters lately, because it
was considered too plebeian, and that is the good
old Jerusalem Cherry—which, in fact, is not a
cherry but a scarlet fruited Solanum or Pepper.
A well grown plant, with its
bright, glossy green foliage,
loaded with its small, scarlet
fruits is about as appropriate
for a decorative plant for Christ-
mas as anything that could
well be imagined. And, it will
retain its attractiveness, not for
a few days only, but for many
weeks. A moderate tempera-
ture, and only enough water to
keep the ground moist during
the winter months, and a prun-
ing back into shape in the spring
when the plant can be set out of
doors, and plunged into the soil,
will put it into fine condition
for a grand show next season.
Red Berries Around the Year
[FE YOU want the cheery com-
bination of bright red berries
and clean, green foliage, another
excellent plant is Ardisia cren-
ulata, which has no fitting pop-
ular name. And, as the bril-
liantly colored berries remain on
the plant for a long time, in
fact until the succeeding crop
has developed, it is always
highly decorative. While the
Ardisia is not quite as tough
and will not withstand the dry heat and dust
so well as the other plants mentioned, under
ordinarily good care it will be wholly satisfac-
tory.
The Best Plants for Hanging Baskets
|X MANY situations, a hanging basket is
more desirable than a regular potted plant.
This year the Lorraine Begonia will not be
much in evidence. But Gloire de Chatelaine,
Glory of Cincinnati, Christmas Red, Prima
Donna, and Mrs. J. A. Peterson are all excellent
house varieties.
DIVIDEND INSURANCE.—Garden dividends are only possible
when the soil is rich and fertile. Manure is one of our very
best soil builders and like wine, it improves with age. Get it
into the garden now and it will be improved ten fold by
spring. Decayed leaves form an excellent soil builder.
FRAMES FOR MELONS.—Good melons are hardly possible with-
out the aid of frames. The ideal frame for this purpose is
about two feet square, twelve inches high in front and
fifteen inches in the back. Now is the logical time to buy
or build some frames for your next year’s garden
BEATING THE SUN.—Sow seeds of all the more hardy types
of vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, onions, etc., to
carry over the winter in the #rames. Give thorough pro-
tection during severe weather. Very sturdy plants with an
enormous root system will be available in early spring
THE GARDEN MOVIES,
WINTER PRUNING is inorder for all types of hardy
trees and shrubs and fruit trees especially. But
tender plants that are likely to winterkill, and
spring flowering shrubs (that should be pruned
immediately after flowering) must not be touched
start some garden improvements at this time. sa
productive and the wire supports may be installed now. This is also an excellent
time to erect fences.
Photographs and legends by W. C. McCollom
Are ALL successful gardeners looking ahead planning improvements?
143
Dwarf fruits are distinctive and
_ KEEPING THEM GROWING.—Vegetables of all kinds growing
in frames need good cultivation. This is even more neces-
sary with coldframes than with frames that are heated, as
glowing conditions in coldframes are poor because of lack of
Propet ventilation, thus causing the. soil to become sour and
sluggis:
e
GATHERING BEAN POLES.—Why not take the kiddies to the
woods and collect some poles and brush for next year? Re-
member that bush limas are not as productive as the pole
type, nor dwarf peas as productive as the tall
No. I2
Not much insistent action, “tis true, but much oppor-
tunity to get things well in hand for the spring
opening. Foresight is better than hindsight. <
KeEerinc THEM CLEAN. Spray anything infested
Why not with scale of any kind at least twice before the grow-
ing season is resumed. Miscible oil sprays and lime-
sulphur preparations are on the market under pro-
prietary names. Cover all parts of the plant
The Plant Doctor in the Flower Garden
From Material Prepared by Dr. F. D. Heald, Professor of Plant Pathology, Washington State Agricultural College -
[Eprror’s Note: This is something new in the way of “spraying tables,” covering both insects and disease of the ordinary plants of the garden. In
all the multitude of books on the subject not one has in a handy form anything like as comprehensive a survey to fit the needs of the common garden
flowers and ornamental plants.
Many tables deal with fruit and vegetables pretty thoroughly, but are of little use about the flower beds, lawns, etc.
To meet this need we have gatheted the available matter in a way never before presented. Unfortunately, knowledge is still lacking about certain
diseases, and so the reader will undoubtedly not find answers to all his questions (Larkspur “blacks’’ for instance). Very many troubles are “general”
and are discussed as a group first of all. “Che reader should familiarize himself with them at the beginning, and then follow through the alphabetical
list of plants for any special feature not covered by the “general” groups. The diseases of tree and shrubs generally (including those of Roses) have been
omitted equally with those of vegetables and fruits available elsewhere. These can be presented at some later date if our readers want them.]
DESCRIPTION OF TROUBLE
GARDEN PLANTS IN GENERAL (Insects) (See also “red spider”
and “white fly”’ under greenhouse insects
Yellowish, dark-spotted worms (3-3 inch) spin webs over plants
and skeletonize leaves
Young plants cut off even with the surface of ground or little higher
Leaf eating caterpillars not protected by web
Foliage riddled with holes by a small (one-eighth inch) cream-col-
ored beetle with striped wing covers
Slate gray or shiny black beetles on leaves and flowers
Roots showing various enlargements with streaks or spots of in-
ternal dark tissue
Plump white grubs feed on the roots and cause more or less in-
jury
Seeds, germinating seeds and young seedlings injured or destroyed
by slender, yellowish-brown shiny larvae
Green or brownish caterpillars frequently moving in great numbers
and devouring the yegetation in their path
Minute, brown or black, jumping beetles (one-twentieth—one-
twelfth inch) eat small irregular holes (larvae feed on roots)
GREENHOUSE PLANTS IN GENERAL (Diseases)
White powdery growth covering leaves or stems
Seedlings drop over and die
Cuttings rot without rooting ]
Black mcld growing over surface of leaves
GREENHOUSE PLANTS IN GENERAL (Insects)
Minute, dark-bodied (one-fifteenth inch), or yellowish (one-twenty-
fifth inch) insects working on under surface of leaves; no webs
Very fine webs on under surface of leaves or over ower heads
Active, white-winged insects (one-tenth inch) working mostly on
under side of leaves, causing yellowing
Slow-moving, soft-bodied bugs (one-sixth inch) covered with whit-
ish powdery secretion
Greenish or dark soft-bodied insects on leaves or succulent stems
Oblong, slate-gray (one-eighth—-one-half inch) “bugs” with seven
pairs of legs; roll up when disturbed
Whitish caterpillar, with median green stripe (three-quarter inch)
folds leaves or ties them together with silk
Active greenish or reddish caterpillars roll up leaves, fasten them
with silk and feed within
Buds of various plants eaten but no insects evident (Feeding done
at night)
SEEDLINGS (Disease)
Seedlings drop over, wilt and die; brown rotted areas on stem at
about ground level
(Insects) (See especially wireworms, cutworms and flea-
beetle in Garden Plants)
ASTER (Diseases)
Wilting and death of plant, stem rotted at or below ground
Yellowing of leaves, followed by wilting and death; brown fungous
threads on roots or basal part of stem
Foliage yellowish, leaves more or less crinkled or puckered
Orange-red spore dots on leaves—(Peridermium stage on Pines)
AZALEA (Diseases)
Brown spots on foliage
Small, crowded, orange spore dots on under side of leaves
BLUEGRASS (Diseases)
Dark enlarged spurs replacing some of the seeds
White powdery coating on the leaves
Reddish or black spore pustules on stem and leaves
Moldy coating around stem, parts above wilting
(Insects)
The flower panicles wither before they have become fully expanded
CALLA (Diseases)
Rotting near the surface and progressing up or down; affected tis-
sue soft and watery
Leaves spotted:
Spots ashen gray with numerous black spore fruits
Spots, dark and circular
CANNA (Diseases)
Leaves showing small, powdery, brown or orange spore-dots
CARNATION (Diseases)
Stem and roots showing brown fungous threads on their surface
Brown fungous threads absent
Flower buds rotting without opening or imperfectly opened and
base of petals rotted; “seed-like”’ mites within
Buds rotting without opening, producing a gray powdery mold
Calyx split, flowers imperfect, but no rot
Circular spots bearing concentric rings of dark mold on leaves,
stems and sometimes calyx
Spore-dots on leaves round or elongated parallel to the length of
leaf, brown and powdery
Leaf spots oblong, blanched or pinkish, bearing numerous central
black spore fruits
Leaf and stem spots ashen white with black mold in centre
Affected parts pale, studded with numerous, minute, black, spiny
spore fruits
CHRYSANTHEMUM (Diseases)
White powdery spots on green parts leaves spotted or blighted:
Large brown or black blotches, with indefinite border, often en-
larging to include whole leaves
Spore dots brown, powdery (one-sixteenth—one-eighth inch);
seriously affected curl and die .
Ray flowers blighted, flowers imperfect
(Insects) (See also greenhouse insects,
Minute grubs make isregular twisting mines within the leaves; in-
fested plants disfigured and sickly
NAME
Garden web-worms
Cut-worms
Caterpillars
Pale-striped flea
beetle
Blinker beetles
Root-knot or nem-
aodes
White grubs
Wireworms
Army worm”
Flea-beetles
Powdery mildew
Damping-off
Damping-ofF
Black mold
Thrips or stigmon-
ose
“Red spider”
White flies
Mealy bugs
Plant lice
Sowbugs
Greenhouse leaf-tier
Oblique-b anded
leaf-roller
Climbing cut worms
Damping-off
Wilt or stem-rot
Root-rot
Yellows 4
ust
Leaf spot
ust
Ergot
Powdery mildew
Rust
Cat-tail fungus
Silver top (Mite)
Soft rot
Leaf spot
Leaf spot
Rust
Rhizoctinia
ilt
Bud-rot
Bud-rot
Split calyx
Fairy ring
Rust
Leaf spot
Leaf spot
Anthracnose
Powdery mildew
Leaf spots or blight
Rust
Ray blight
Chrysanthemum leaf
miner
CAUSE OF TROUBLE
Loxostege moth
Various moths
Various moths
Systena taeniata var. blanda
Species of Meloidae
Heterodera radicola
Lachnosterna spp. (May beetles
or June bugs)
Elaterdiae (Various click
beetles)
Various moths
Epitrix cucumeris and others
Sphaerotheca, Erysiphe
Various fungi
Various fungi and bacteria
Meliola spp.
Heliothrips haemorrhoidalis,
Thrips tabaci ;
Tetranychus telarius
Aleurodes spp.
Pseudocscus spp.
Myzus persicae and others
Porcellio laevis
Phylyctaenia ferrugalis
Archips rosaceana
Various moths
Rhizoctinia sp., Pythium de-
baryanum and other fungi
Fusarium sp: (Imperfect)
Rhizoctinia sp.
Non-parasitic
Colesporium souchi
Septoria azaleae
Pucciniastrum minimum
Claviceps sp. |.
Erysiphe graminis
Puccinia spp. |
Epichloe typhina
Pediculopsis gramineum
Bacillus aroidae
Phyllosticta richardiae
Cerospora richardiaecola
Uredo cannae @
Rhizoctinia sp.
Musarium sp.
Sporotrichum poae
Botrytis spp.
Non-parasitic
Heterosporium echinulatum
Uromyces caryophyllinus
Septoria dianthi
Alternaria dianthi
Volutella dianthi
Erysiphe cichoracearum :
Septoria chrysanthemi; Cylin-
drosporium chrysanthemi
Puccinia chrysanthemi
Assochyla chrysanthemi
Phylomyza chrysanthemi
144
REMEDY
REFERENCE
5 (5-5-50)
or add 11
40
3or4
3 or 4
Control
white fly
18, 22
19,17 or 10
21
15 or 21
18
21, 37, 33,
40 or 11
40 or 11
37
2, 32 (air-
slaked)
2,3, 4, 28
See carna-
tion
5
8,12
Not severe
36, 28
10, on shad-
ed lawns
Not serious
Not serious
27
42 (corms);
28
7
7
Not serious
24, 33
31
Band calyx
24, 5, or 7
34, 43, 42;
43, 42
(Cuttings)
34, 5,or7
34, 5, 7,43
2 (Cuttings),
33
10, 40
6, soap for
sticker;
6
36 (cut-
tings), 26
34
5, 24
18, 1-400
‘sharp-edged, galvanized iron pan 6 to Io feet and
REMEDIES IN DETAIL
‘Ts is a novel presentation of the recom-
mended remedies. They are classified in
groups and the reference numbers correspond to
the figures in the accompanying table. Particu-
lar attention should be paid to general meth-
ods of control and sanitation through giving the
plants conditions in which they can grow prop-
erly. Many of the pests and diseases are the
direct results of improper environment.
Seed Treatment
1. FormatpEnype Steep. The seed is soaked or dipped in a
solution of commercial formaldehyde or formalin (40 per cent. solu-
tion) in water for a definite length of time. The strength of the
solution and the time it is allowed to act on the seed must be given
most careful attention. One pint of commercial formaldehyde to
40 gallons of water (a “1 to 40 solution”’) is a common strength.
Formalin solutions lose their strength quite rapidly on standing.
Soil Sterilization
2. Surrace Firinc. (a) Direct firing: A layer of straw, brush,
or other litter is spread over the seedbeds in the open and burned.
In carrying out this treatment, the seedbeds should be prepared
for planting before burning the litter, after which the ashes may be
raked into the surface soil. The ground is then ready for planting,
and the upper layers should be free from objectionable organisms.
(b) Pan firing: For this method a sheetiron pan, 3 by 9 feet, is
employed. Support it over the bed to be sterilized and build a fire
beneath. Next shovel the surface 6 inches of soil from the next
3 x 9 foot strip into the pan and heat for an hour. Return this soil
to its original position and treat a similar area from the other side of
the pan. Next move the pan on and continue the process.
3. Stream STERILIZATION. (Adapted for greenhouse work or for
beds in the open when live steam is available.)
(a) The perforated-pipe method. Permanent or movable perfor-
ated pipes may be arranged in greenhouse benches. A 2-inch main
from a boiler furnishing 80 to 100 pounds pressure should be con-
nected to a set of 13-inch pipes placed at a depth of 1 foot, spaced
12 to 18 inches apart and provided with one eighth to one fourt
inch perforations every 6 to 12 inches. The initial cost cf perman-
ent pipes is high, but their operation requires little labor and they
may be used for subirrigation if desired. Place the pipe in posi-
tion and fill in the-soil and fertilizer (except commercial fertilizer)
and have the seedbed prepared asif fer planting. Cover with canvas
or tarpaulin and turn on the live steam for I to 2 hrs.
(b) The inverted-pan method. This has proved practical for
extensive work in the open and has been successfully employed for
the treatment of tobacco seedbeds. The apparatus consists of a
6 inches deep,
fitted with handles for convenience in moving, and provided with
an intake for the attachment of a steel hose. In practise the pan
is inverted over the soil to be sterilized and the edges forced into the
ground to prevent the escape of steam which is then turned in.
The temperature is maintained at 175 to 180 degrees F. for 1 to
2 hours. Successive areas may be treated in this way until the en-
tire seedbed has been covered. In sterilizing seedbeds by steam, it
should be borne in mind that lighter soils are more easily sterilized
than heavy ones. Also that soils high in humus are liable to injury
by. over sterilization. Soils can be most efficiently sterilized when
they contain a medium amount of water. :
4. AppricaTION OF FuncicipE. This may be distributed (in
solution) from a sprinkling can, a spray pump, or by one of the over-
head watering systems. In all cases the ground should be spaded
or plowed and put into shape for planting previous to the applica-
tion of the fungicide.
(a) Drenching with formaldehyde. Apply a solution of commercial
formaldehyde, 3 pints to 50 gallons of water, at the rate of seven
eighths gallon to 9 square feet, cover with canvas for 24 hours and
air for one week before seeding. Ground intended for early spring
planting may be sterilized in the late fall if more convenient.
) Sulphuric acid drench. Apply three sixteenths ounce of com-
mercial sulphuric acid (in water) per square foot of soil at the time
of seeding. Possible injury to seedlings may be greatly reduced by
abundant watering during the germination period. his method
is especially applicable to the treatment of seedbeds used for grow-
ing Pines or other evergreens.
(c) Sulphur. Flowers of sulphur or sulphur flour may be broad-
casted and then woiked into the surface soil just before planting
at the rate of 350 to 900 pounds per acre. This soil is of particular
value in treating land badly infected with the organisms causing
potato scab.
Spraying
5. Borpgeaux Mixture: Take Copper sulphate (bluestone),
4 pounds; Quicklime, 5 pounds; Water 50 gallons. Prepare
stock solutions of both the copper sulphate and the lime of such
strengths that each gallon will contain 1 to 2 pounds of one or the
other of these substances. Protect from evaporation or dilution
by rains, and always stir before using. Dissolve copper sulphate
either by suspending it in a coarse bag in the water or by using hot
water. In using the stock solutions, measure out the right amount
of each to give the desired number of pounds of chemical and dilute
with half the quantity of water in separate (wooden) vessels. The
two diluted solutions should then be poured together through a
copper sieve (about 20 meshes to the inch) to exclude small solid
particles. Bordeaux should always be freshly made each time, as
it becomes weak on standing. The mixture may be tested to see
it does not contain an excess of copper by adding a few drops of a
10 per cent. solution of potassium ferro-cyanide (yellow prussiate
of potash). If the drops make a brown sediment appear in the
bordeaux, add more lime.
6. Resin-BorDEAUX. Bordeaux, any strength, 48 gallons;
Resin “sticker”, 2 gallons. The resin “sticker” is made by melting
DrEcEMBER, 1918
DESCRIPTION OF TROUBLE
CLEMATIS (Disease) .
Stem rotting at or near the ground level, top blighted
(Insects) (Also scale insects and two-spotted mite of citrus fruits;)
COLUMBINE (Diseases)
Large purplish blotches on the leaves
Whitish coating on leaves, later with numerous black spore-fruits
COSMOS (Diseases)
Large purplish blotches at the lower nodes of stem
White powdery coating on leaves
CYCLAMEN (Diseases) oe .
Leaf spots irregular, dark at first but turning light and showing con-
centric markings
Leaf spots circular, watery
CYCLAMEN (Inseci.) (See greenhouse insects)
DAHLIA (Diseases)
White powdery coating on leaves : ‘
Flowers small, often drooping before opening, due to browning and
wilting of flower stem
(Insects) 3 se
(Also apple leaf-hopper; thrips, red spider, and iris white fly) :
Buds blasted by punctures of bugs (one-fifth inch) dull yellowish
or greenish, mottled with reddish brown
Larva tunneling up and down inside the main stem
GERANIUM (Diseases)
Leaves showing triangular blighted areas extending from the mar-
gin inward; also internal brown spots
(Insects) (Mealy bugs, red spiders, aphids, and white flies,
under greenhouse insects)
GLADIOLUS (Diseases)
Corms with black sunken rotted spots; leaf spots also produced—
reddish-brown color the most common
GOLDEN GLOW (Disease)
White granular coating on the leaves
HOLLYHOCK (Diseases)
Leaves show yellow to brown, much raised spore-dots
Leaf spots angular, dark-bordered, centre ashen gray
Leaf spots circular, frequently breaking in the centre
Brown spots on leaf blades, leaf stalks and stems; on older parts,
sunken and light yellow to black
(Insects) (See also garden insects)
Yellow, sickly looking foliage due to work of dark-green to deep-
bluish-green insect (one-quarter inch) with bright blue markings
on the head
HYDRANGEA (Diseases)
Leaf spots large, rusty brown, sometimes blighting entire top
Leaf spots small, white, with red or purple border
Orange-colored, powdery spore-dots on lower surface of leaves;
later angular, reddish brown spore-dots on upper surface, but
not powdery -
IRIS (Diseases)
Elliptical, brown, yellow-bordered spots on the leaves
Dusty or powdery, reddish spore-dots on the leaves
Rhizomes or roots self-rotted
(Insects) ‘
Small, white-winged active insects cause yellowing of leaves or
smutting (black mold in honey dew)
IVY, BOSTON (Leaf spot of Grape creeper and white fly)
IVY, ENGLISH (Diseases)
Eeaves with large, irregular spots, grayish-brown above, brown be-
ow
Leaves showing dark brown, extended, déad areas, with many black
spore-fruits, frequently in circular zones ,
Leaves with brown, raised, definitely bordered spots, terminal or
central
(Insects) (Mealy bugs, white fly, and scale under Garden
Insects; also bean aphis)
MATRIMONY VINE (Disease)
Dense, white, powdery coating on the leaves
MIGNONETTE (Disease)
Pale leaf spots with yellowish or brown borders, but uniform brown
when older
(Insects) (Corn ear-worm; imported cabbage worm; and two-
spotted mite or “‘red spider’’ in greenhouse)
NASTURTIUM (Disease)
Leaves become yellow, wilt and die; stems with dark vascular
strands : :
(Insects) (See bean aphis and thrips under bean insects;, im-
ported cabbage worm under cabbage)
Long, winding mines in leaves made by yellowish maggot (one-
eighth inch)
OLEANDER (Diseases)
Irregular galls or swellings on stem and twigs
Dead spots on leaves
(Insects) (See scale insects and mealy bugs under Garden and
general greenhouse insects)
Plant lice on tender shoots, yellow or yellow with black spots
Foliage eaten by a metallic blue beetle (three-eighths inch long)
.
PALM (Diseases)
Leaves showing small or large dead brown spots, generally more or
less circular:
Minute fungous fruits or spore-tufts present
Fungous fruits absent at frst (Some molds may show later)
Leaves with small circular raised spore-dots which suggest scale
insects
(Insects) (General greenhouse insects; scales and mealy bugs)
PANSY (Diseases)
Dead, black-bordered spots on leaves and petals
Plants wilt and die; stem rotted at or near ground level
Brown, powdery spore-dots on leaves and other green parts
CUnsects) (“red spider” especially)
NAME
Stem rot
Leaf spot
Powdery mildew
Stem-rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf spot
Anthracnose
Powdery mildew
Phoma disease
Tarnished plant-
bug
Stalk-borer
Bacterial blight or
spot
Hard-rot
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf spot
Leaf spot
Anthracnose
Blue sharp-shooter
Leaf spot
Leaf spot
Rust
Leaf spot or blight
Rust
Root-stock rot
White fly
Leaf spot
Leaf blight
Anthracnose
Powdery mildew
Leaf spot
Wilt
Serpentine lea f -
miner
Twig-gall or tuber-
culosis
Leaf spot
Oleander or milk-
weed aphis
Blue milkweed
beetles
Leaf spots
Sun scald (In green-
house)
Palm smut or scale
spot
Anthracnose
Stem-rot
Rust
CAUSE OF TROUBLE
Asochyla clematidinia
Ascochyta sp.
Erysiphe polygoni
Phylitinia sp.
Erysiphe cichoracearum
Phoma cyclamenae
Glomerella rufomaculans, var.
cyclaminis
Erysiphe polygoni
Phoma dahliae
Lygus pratensis
Pseudomonas erodii
Septoria gladioli
Erysiphe cichoracearum
Puccinia malvacearum
Cercospora althaeina
Phyllosticta althaeina
Colletotrichum malvarum
Tettigoniella circellata
Phyllosticta hydrangeae
Cercospora sp.
Pucciniastrum hydrangeae
Heterosporium gracile
Puccinia iridis
(Bacterial rot)
Aleyrodes spiraeiodes
Ramularia hedericola
Phyllosticta concentrica
Colletotrichum gloesporioides,
var. hederae
Sphaerotheca sp.
Cercospora resedae
Bacillus solanacearum
Agromyza pusilla
Bacillus savastanoi
Macrosporium nerium
Aphis nerii
Chrysochus cobaltinus
¢
Various fungi
Sun shining
drops
Graphiola phoenicis
through water
Colletotrichum viola-tricoloris
Fusarium violae
Puccinia violae
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
REMEDY
REFERENCE
23, to 26,
28
5or7
10
26, 24
10 or 9
26/and 5 or
26, 50r7
8, 9, 10
No treat-
ment
perfected
18, when in
nymph
33; avoid
crowding
24, 42, 30,
5
8,10,7
23 and 24,
(fall); 5
(spring)
ntl
5,7
5, often
18, with
prsesure
of I50-
200 Ibs.
5,7,8
5,5,8
Rarely se-
vere
23, 24, in
late fall;
5,8
Not severe
25
26 (entire
tops)
5, 7, or 8 if
away from
painted
structures
7or10
7or10
28, control
insects
18, (9I-
400)
26
Not serious
18
11 or 12
when
beetles
appear
7 if severe
7, 5, or 8,
or F in
open
5
30, 31
25
TIE EEE EEE ESI SSnEnnIEERS nn
145
5 pounds resin with 1 pint fish oil, cooling slightly and adding 1
pound soda lye while stirring The mixture should be diluted
with 5 gallons of water. The “sticker” makes the bordeaux stick
better and is needed in spraying plants having a smooth surface.
7. AmMontaTeD Copper CARBoNATE. Copper carbonate, 5
ounces; Ammonia (26 degrees Beaume), 3 pints; Water, 50 gallons.
Dilute the ammonia with about 12 pints of water and use just
enough to dissolve the copper carbonate. The strong solution
may then be diluted to the proper volume. It should be used very
soon after preparation. Not as good as bordeaux but may be used
when the sediment or stains from that are objectionable, as in late
sprayings of small fruits.
_8- Lime-Surpnur. Home boiled or factory boiled or commers
cial lime-sulphur is an insecticide as well as a fungicide. It is very
extensively used in place of bordeaux for fungous diseases since it is
less likely to cause burning or russeting. The home boiled article
may be made according to the following formula: Sulphur, 1 to r4
pounds; Fresh stone lime, } pound; Water, 3 gallon. (1) Slake
the lime in the cooker. (2) Add the sulphur and water. (3) Boil
briskly till the sulphur is dissolved (about 45 minutes) stirring con-
tinuously and keeping the cooker covered; as it boils down keep
adding water. (4) When finished let settle. (5) Use only the clear
liquid, which may be stored if kept from the air. Prepared in this
way lime sulphur should give a hydrometer reading of about 26
degrees Beaume, somewhat weaker than the factory made product.
_[The commercial preparations ready made, and mercly needing
dilution will be found most convenient, especially when only small
quantities are needed.—Ep.]
9. Porasstum Sutruipe. Potassium sulphide, 3 to 5 ounces;
Water, ro gallons. Quite generally used for gooseberry and other
mildews. Not as effective as lime-sulphur, but may be used if
that shows any injurious effects.
_10. SurpHur. Flowers of sulphur or any brand of finely sub-
limed sulphur may be used as a dust spray. Sulphur dust has been
recommended especially for grape powdery mildew, and may be
tried for other powdery mildews also. It is effective for asparagus
rust, and has recently been used with fair success in treatment of
fungous diseases of apples and nursery stock. There are various
commercial forms of sulphur such as “atomic sulphur,” “sulphur
paste,”’ etc., which may be used as liquid sprays at the rate of 2 to6
pounds to 50 gallons of water. These are valuable in mildew control.
11. ArsENATE oF LEap. Arsenate of lead paste, I to 2 pounds;
Water, 40 to 50 gallons. For newly hatched insects, it is not neces-
sary to use it stronger than I to 50. For old or large insects, use
2 pounds to 50 gallons. Some more resistant forms may require
3 to 5 pounds to 50 gallons. First mix the paste with a small
quantity of water, then dilute to the desired yolume. Powdered
arsenate of lead is about twice as strong as the paste, so I pound to
50 gallons is generally sufficient.
_ 12. Parts Green. The important compound in this insecticide
1s arsenious oxide and the commercial grades vary in strength. Ac-
cording to the Federal Insecticide Law, the standard is not less than
50 per cent. of arsenious oxide, and arsenic in water soluble form must
not be present to the equivalent of more than 3} per cent. of arsen-
ious oxide. Paris green was for many years the standard arsenical,
but on account of its scorching effect on foliage, has been very
largely replaced by arsenate of lead. It may be applied either wet
or dry. Mixing with bordeaux, lime, or an inert substance lessens
the danger of foliage injury. (a) Dry or as dust spray: Paris green,
I pound; Air slaked lime, gypsum, or flour, 25 to 50 pounds. (bd),
Wet or as liquid spray: Paris green, I pound; Fresh stone lime,
2 pounds; Water, 100 to 150 gallons. London purple, an arsenate
of lime, was formerly used. Its arsenic content is more variable;
it is liable to burn foliage, and consequently it has fallen into disuse.
13. Keros—ENE Emutsion. This. contact insecticide may be
prepared ‘as follows: 4 pound Fish oil soap ( or 1 pound laundry
soap); 2 gallons Kerosene; 1 gallon Water. Dissolve the soap in
hot water, remove from fire and add the kerosene. Churn or
pump mixture until creamy. Dilute as follows: (a) Dormant
spray: I part to 5 to 7 parts water. (b) Summer spray: I part to
IO to I5 parts water. Foliage injury is likely in many crops and
consequently tobacco preparations have come into more general
use for plant lice. Crude oil may be used in the place of kerosene.
14. Distirrate Emursion. 20 gallons Distillate (28 degrees
Beaume); 30 pounds Whale oil soap; 12 gallons Water. Dissolve
soap in water and boil. Add distillate and mix thoroughly while
hot. For use add 1 gallon of stock to 20 gallons of water.
15. Carsoric Acip Emursion. 40 pounds Whale oil soap;
5 pounds Crude carbolic acid; 40 gallons Water. Dissolve soap
in hot water, add the carbolic acid and boil 20 minutes. For use
add 1 gallon of the stock to 20 gallons of water.
16. Mrsciste Oms. These are proprietary sprays and are
concentrated oil emulsions intended primarily for use against San
José scale. The dilution is 1 gallon to frdm 15 to 17 gallons of
water.
17. Wuare Om Soap. This is more effective than ordinary
soap. An excellent article may be prepared as follows: 6 pounds
Caustic soda; 22 pounds Fish oil; 3 gallon Water. Dissolve the
caustic soda in the water, then add the fish oil very gradually while
stirring constantly and vigorously. Boiling is unnecessary, but
the mixture should be stirred for about 20 minutes after the oil has
been added.
18. Nicotine. Use of “Black leaf 40” or other 40 per cent.
nicotine preparation, I gallon; water, 800 to 1,600 gallons. Add
4 pounds of soap for each 100 gallons of spray. Dissolve the soap
in hot water and add to the mixture to make it spread and stick
better. When used with lime sulphur, the soap may be omitted.
In some cases a stronger mixture is required, as for the Chrysanthe-
mum leaf miner I part to 200 to 400.
19. Water Onry. Garden slugs may be knocked off by the
jet from the hose and red spider is controlled by an adequate supply
of moisture in the air.
20. Dusr Reperrants. Certain small or soft bodied insects
may be controlled by the use of inert dust repellants. Thus flour,
air slaked lime, limoid, gypsum, etc., may be sprinkled on the plants.
Such treatment is employed with success in early attachs upon seed-
lings inthe garden. -
Fumigation
21. Hyprocyanic Actin Gas. This is a deadly poison produced
by tne action of sulphuric acid to which water has been added, on
either potassium or sodium cyanide. Particulars may be had on
application.
22. Tosacco. Tobacco fumes may be used in the control of
plant lice, thrips, mites, etc., on house or greenhouse plants. Foliage
injury of tender plants may be avoided by burning the tobacco
slowly or by the use of one of the several proprietary, volatile to-
bacco products now on the market.
Sanitary Measures
These are mainly in the nature of preventive steps, but oftentimes
they deal with material already diseased or so weakened that tt is easily
subject to infection or injury. They are especially important im the
control of diseases caused by organisms too small to be easily seen, and
which the gardener is likely to overlook as important causes of trouble.
23. Destruction oF Deap Leaves in which the organism
winters over. Such measures are never perfectly effective alone but
are valuable in supplementing other methods of control, especially
146
DESCRIPTION OF TROUBLE
PINK (Diseases) (See also Carnation diseases)
Raised blisters of spore-dots in concentric circles on leaves
(Insects) (All Carnation insects; greenhouse, white fly and
two-spotted mite in greenhause)
PEONY (Diseases)
Leaves showing irregular brown blotches
Brown or grayish spots on stems, leaves and buds followed by the
appearance of a grayish mold under moist conditions
PHLOX (Diseases)
Brown spots on foliage
White powdery coating on the leaves
‘
(Insects)
Holes in leaves
PRIMROSE (Diseases) (See also gray mold under lettuce diseases)
Well-defined, oval or circular, brown leaf spots bearing minute dark
spore-fruits
Leaf blotches yellow, centres ashy white
Dark spore-fruits present in extended dead areas of leaf tissue;
definite spot rather rare
(Insects) (See Fuller’s rose beetle)
SNAPDRAGON (Diseases)
Spots on stem and leaves, dirty white with brown border; later
black spore-fruits in the centre; leaves blighted or stems girdled
Tips of shoots wilt and die
Brown, powdery spore-dots on leaves, stems and even seed pods;
causes death and shriveling of leaves
(Insects) (green peach aphis)
SUN FLOWER (Diseases)
Brown or nearly black spore-dots on leaves which may curl, or die
and fall
White powdery coating on leaves and stems
(Insects) (Common garden insects; corn ear-worm; Harle-
quin cabbage bug; blue sharpshooter of hollyhock; onion thrips;
oblique-banded leaf-roller of apple insects; potato flea-beetle;
and two-spotted mite of greenhouse)
SWEET PEA (Diseases) (See also powdery mildew under pea dis-
eases; Rhizoctonia disease under beans, potatoes, and other garden
crops)
Diseases affecting the aérial parts: ’
Seedlings damp off, or older plants show white mold around col-
lar and become yellow with later wilting and death; black seed-
like bodies in or on the affected stems
Leaves, stems, flowers or pods wilt or turn brown; minute fung-
ous pustules abundant; disease progresses from young tips
downward
Leaves dotted or mottled with yellow and frequently curled
Stems show light reddish-brown to dark brown spots or streaks
originating near ground but spreading to involve all other parts
Flower buds turn yellow and drop off
Diseases affecting the roots:
Plants dwarfed and yellow; root system short, stubby and
charred in appearance
Roots rotting without above symptoms.
arated except by microscopic characters
(Insects)
Spots straw-colored or white with minute black spore-fruits
Spots straw-colored or white, centres darkened by mold
Spots reddish (one sixteenth—one eighth inch) with more or less
yellowing or intervening portions
Diseases produce indefinite spots or extended discolored or dead
areas on the leaves:
Advancing from the edge and blighting the whole leaf
Yellow patches on the upper surface becoming powdery below
TRUMPER CREEPER (Diseases)
Leaf spots first purplish, later with grayish centre bearing minute
fungous fruits
Diffuse, indefinite, brown or obvaceous coating on the lower sur-
faces of the leaves
(Insects) (See citrus white fly and general gaiden insects)
Several types not sep-
VERBENA (Disease)
Leaves covered with powdery coating
(Insects) (thrips, leaf-roller and two-spotted mite of greenhouse)
VIOLET (Diseases) (Also Rhizoctinia disease under Carnation)
Roots with grayish-black spots, not penetrating deep; the end of
tap-root of seedlings destroyed or deformed
Diseases producing more or less circular, definite bordered spots:
Spots generally yellow with brown mold
(Insects) (especially two-spotted greenhouse mite)
VIRGINIA CREEPER (Diseases) (black-rot and powdery mildew of
grape)
(Insects) (See cight-spotted foresters, hawk moths, and leaf-
hoppers under grape insects)
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
REMEDY
NAME CAUSE OF TROUBLE Sa Sea
Rust Puccinia arenariae 25
Scab Cladosporium paeoniae 7or8s
Mold or Botryis dis- | Botrytis paeoniae 26, 24,5
ease
Leaf spot Septoria divaricata 7or8
Powdery mildew Erysiphe cichoracearum 10 (Liquid
or dust)
Flea beetle See Garden Plants 5
Leaf spot Phyllosticata primulicola, As- :
cochyta primulae 7, if severe
Leaf spot Ramularia primulae
Anthracnose Colletotrichum primulae ditto and as
26 also
Anthracnose Colletotrichum antir: hini 42, 23, 24,|.
33 34, 5,
Blight Phoma sp. : 5
Rust Puccinia antirrhini 25 (infected
: plants);
30, 5.8
(value
uncertain)
Rust Puccinia helianthi | 24 (All in-
fected
refuse)
Powdery mildew Erysiphe cichoracearum 10
Wilt Sclerotinia libertiana 3
Anthracnose Glomelella cingulata 1 (5% for
5-60 min.)
(Concen-
trated
sulphuric
acid for
2 5-15 min.)
Mosaic Non-parasitic Control.
¢ aphids
Streak Bacillus lathyri 3
Bud drop Non-parasitic, Excess of nitro-| 31 (In ex-
genous fertilizer cess)
Root-rot Thielavia basicola 3
Root-rot Fusarium lathyri. Chaetomium | 3
spirochaele
Leaf spot Phyllosticta violae
Leaf spot Cerospora violae
Anthracnose Marsonia violae
Ba i) fh, ti
severe
Anthracnose Gloeosporium yiolae
' Downy mildew Pernospora violae
Leaf spot Septoria tecomae 5
Leaf mold Cercospora sordida 5
Powdery mildew Erysiphe cichoracearum 9, 10
Thielavia root-rot Thielavia basicola If infected
soil can-
not be
avoided,
28, 24, 2
Spot disease Alternaria violae 23, 24, 25,
26
in many leaf-spot diseases and in other troubles infesting the foliage
of fruit trees or plants.
24. Destruction or Deap Déeris in general—dead stems,
leaves or fruits. In such troubles as white rust of oyster plant or
downy mildew of the onion, the over-winter spores are set free by
the ,breaking down of plant parts remaining on or in the ground.
In the potato, the stalk-borer winters in the old, dead stems. Es-
pecially in truck gardens the general practise of cleaning up and burn-
ing all plant débris is a good one, and will lessen the damage from
insects, pests, or fungous diseases.
25. Removar anp Destruction or Wuore Piants. In some
cases, especially of perennial crops, this is the only thing to do.
The tree or plant may be hopelessly infested with an insect pest,
or the fungous parasite may be both internal and perennial. This is
illustrated in trees badly infested with shot-hole borer or by black-
berties or raspberries affected with orangé rust. The fire blight, a
bacterial trouble, may be so severe as to call for equally drastic
measures.
26. Remoyvar AND Destruction oF DtskAsED (localized)
Parts. This should be done when the trouble is localized. Less
severe types of fire blight infesting the twigs only may be treated in
this manner, or the infested canes of small fruits like blackberry or
raspberry, or the small branches of trees harboring borers or insect
eggs may be pruned out and destroyed.
27. Burninc oF GRASS OR STUBBLE, not a practise to be
generally recommended, but it may be employed in special cases.
Ergot-infested meadows may be so treated, while the depredations
of the chinch bugs, army worms locusts, and wheat joint-worms
may be lessened in a similar manner.
28. Avoipance or Inrecrep Sor. Fields or gardens may be-
DECEMBER, 1918
come infected with soil fungi or insect pests that spend a part of
their life buried in the ground or beneath soil débris. A number of
the important troubles which may originate from infected soils.
are the Rhizoctinia disease of potatoes and other crops; the wilt
diseases cf cotton, potato, etc.; wire worms, root maggots, etc.
}. Planting and Cultural Practices
“329. Pziowinc. Deep plowing may be used to good ad-
vantage against some of the common, injurious insects which spend
the winter on or in the soil or surface plant débris in either the egg,
larva, pupa or adult stage. The life history of the pest must be
understood in order to take proper advantage of this method. Grass-
hoppers’ eggs which are laid on grass and stubble, if turned under to
a depth of 5 or 6 inches, may hatch, but the young will be smothered
without ever reaching the surface. Even adult insects may be bur-
ied and smothered. Insects which normally hibernate (spend the
winter) below the surface may be exposed and devoured by birds:
or succumb to unfavorable weather conditions before establishing
themselves in new winter quarters. This is why fall plowing is of
value in the control of corn-stalk borer, wire worms, sugar-cane
borer, corn-ear worm, cut worms, root maggots, etc.
30. Crop Rotation. One of the principal reasons for disease
is the existence of many fungi or insects in the soil, which increase in
numbers or amount with the continuous growth of the same crop..
Single cropping may thus increase the sevetity of a soil infection
until the production of a paying crop is absolutely impossible. (See
28). This is true in the case of wilt diseases, potato scab, the
thizoctonia diseases, weevils of peas and beans.
31. Avoipance or Certain Fertirizers which promote the
severity of fungous or bacterial troubles. (a) Addition of lime in-
creases severity of potato scab. (b) Barnyard manure also increases
the severity of potato scab. (c) Nitrogenous fertilizers promote:
vigorous succulent tissue and so increase danger of pear fire blight.
32. Use or Certain Fertirizers. The application of lime to
a rhizoctonia infected soil is of value since it produces an alkaline
condition unfavorable to the fungus. Alfalfa failures may be due
to acid soils which may be corrected by liming.
Control of Water Supply
33. RepucEe THE WaTeER UseEn In IrricarTIon either by less fre—
quent irrigations or by watering for shorter periods. Like the use
ot strong drink the use of irrigation water is intoxication, for the
grower is stimulated by the response which plants make to plenty of
water to use a little more. The result is that over-irrigation and
over-growth are not uncommon. ‘This is just the condition which
favors a bacterial disease like fire-blight of apple and pear, increases
the severity of powdery mildew of apple or wheat and aggravates
such non-parasitic troubles as bitter rot of apple and winter injury
of fruit trees in its various forms. An excess of moisture seems to be:
favorable for the increase of soil-infesting nematodes, and green-
houses that are kept especially damp are frequently overrun with
sow bugs.
34. Water THE Som, Not THE Prants. In greenhouse crops
spraying with a garden hose is a means of spreading certain fungous
diseases. If rust appears in carnation beds_ the successful grower
keeps it in check by watering with an open hose between rows. A
disease like the late blight of celery may be spread and increases in
severity by running the irrigation water down the rows, rather
than between them.
Selection of Site
35. Avoid heavy poorly aérated soils which are especially favor-
able to certain bacterial diseases like black rot of cabbage and black-
leg of potato and which predispose stone fruits to physiological
gummosis.
36. _Earry CurTrTinG is designed to interrupt the completion of
the life cycle or, wherever possible, to prevent the development of the
winte1ing stage of the parasite. Two notable illustrations among
fungous diseases are leaf spot and downy mildew of alfalfa; the clover-=
seed midge may be partially controlled in a similar manner.
Special Devices
37. Use or Porsonep Barr. (a) Potsoned bran. Wet 40
pounds of bran until the water can be squeezed out in the hand,
then stir in 2 gallons of molasses and 5 pounds of white arsenic.
Scatter in small piles in the pathway of the pests. (b) Citric bran
mash. (1) Mix dry 50 pounds, wheat bran; 2} pounds, white ar-
senic or Paris green; (2) Mix thoroughly 4 dozen Lemons, including
rind, chopped fine, 4 quarts, Syrup of molasses; 5 gallons, Watcr.
For use, mix I and 2 just before using and add sufficient water to
make a wet mash. (c) Slices of cairot, raw potatoes or other vege-
tables may be rolied in Paris green and placed in the haunts of the
est.
: 38. Borers may be killed by digging them cut or by inserting a
flexible wire into their burrows. Hand_picking of beetles and throwing
them into a pan of kerosene is sure but tedious. f
39. Tue Use or Berrits of some soit to prevent the advance
or migration of insects, or occasionally of fungi is often effective.
(a) Banding with some sticky material. (b) Furrows or trenches.
Plowed furrows may be used te check the march of army worm, the
retarded army being killed by spraying with strong contact insecti-
cide.
49. Paint sulphur and oil on steam pipes.
41. Mecuanicat Destruction or Parasires. Because of
their large size and characteristic work, the larvae of tne
sphinx or hawk moths may be easily located, and gathered and
destroyed or cut in two with a pair of scissors. wherever found.
The egg masses of tussock moths, potato beetles, brown tail moths.
and others which are generally conspicuous, may also be located
and destroyed. Brown tail and gypsy moth egg masses are effec-
tually destroyed if painted with creosote
Seed Selection and Disease Resistant Varieties
42. Tue Use or DiIsEASE-FREE SEED OR Stock. Certain
of the seed-borne troubles can not be readily centioiled by seed
treatment; against these the selection of healthy seed or seed free
from the germs of disease offers an avenue of escape. It is also
equally impoitant that all stock used for propagation such as cut-
tings, scions, bulbs, etc., be free from diseases or pests.
43. Tue Serecrion or ReEsisTANT VARIETIES OF SPECIES.
The experience of growers and the results of experimental tests show
that it is frequently possible to list varieties into resistant, suscept-
ible, and very susceptible groups, and such lists have been published
by experiment stations in connection with many of our important
crops. A few cf many possible examples may be cited: Durum
varieties of wheat and the Kanred show a marked resistance to stem
rust; Palmetto asparagus, a vatiety resistant to rust, has largely
replaced the susceptible Conoyer’s Colossal; English varieties of
gooseberry are much more susceptible to mildew than the Ameri-
can; the Chinese and Japanese chestnuts are much more resistant to
the bark diseases than the native American Chestnut.
DeEcEMBER, 1918
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE | 147
What is a ““Good”’ Strawberry?
Sove time ago, I read an article in the
\ Garpen Macazine that told of Mr.
Kevitt’s successful plantingas late as November
15th. Is not early August considered the most
desirable date for Southern Massachusetts?
For the large home garden where shipping
qualities are not requisite what kinds of straw-
Berries best comply with the conditions men-
tioned in “sweet and luscious and of aromatic
flavor” ?—Edward S. Adams, Mass.
—I, too, think most growers would be sur-
prised at Mr.: Kevitt’s late planting date, but
I saw the fruit and plants late in June, and the
crop was certainly a good one. It would have
been a good showing for any time of setting.
But these were the strongest, well-rooted
plants most skilfully set in the best of soil.
When it comes to naming “best” kinds of
strawberries, it’s much like selecting the “best
girl” for some other fellow—it’s risky busi-
ness. There’s no accounting for tastes, and
this applies to strawberry plants as well as
strawberry growers. No fruit is more finicky
in its variations, and no other fruit is more
local m its success and failures. A variety
that is “best” in one locality or on one kind of
soil or under one method of culture may be
nearly worthless in others. For example,
Chesapeake in form and color is_ ideal,
and its quality is high. But the introducer, J.
T. Lovett, says that it will not succeed on
his sandy soil. I saw it on heavy soil years
ago. Its appearance captivated my eye, its
quality tickled my palate, and “TI fell for it”
at once, though it was then spoken of as a little
weak in plant and a poor “plant maker.’
I tried this in a small way only to be repeat-
edly disappointed on my sandy soil. If I lived
in Massachusetts, I certainly would test it.
In fruit, it’s one of the best I’ve ever seen.
A variety that is very popular up Boston
way is Marshall, for it succeeds there; from
my experience, I wouldn’t say that it pos-
sessese all the strawberry graces, “sweet,
luscious, aromatic,’ in highest degree. But
it’s worth trying. Wm. Belt is a berry worth
while though its tendency to grow cartwheels
doesn’t suit some. But it’s a strong grower,
productive and of good _ quality. Nick
Ohmer is another variety worth trying. For
late, Gandy is good. Fendall is a good one in
some localities. Some of the new hybrids may
prove valuable, but time and many trials
are necessary to demonstrate this. Try a few
plants of Forward or Progressive “‘everbear-
ing’ varieties.
But best of all take a squint over the fence of
your strawberry growing neighbor, whose soil
and conditions are like your own.
several varieties in a small way, including each
year one of the newer kinds. This experimental
work is more fun than the circus, and you may
find a prize that combines all the desired
qualities.—F. H. V.
FAIRFAX ROSES \
Will bloom in your garden just as well as they
do in ours. They are propagated under Natural
conditions—not forced in hot green-houses. They
are hardy, vigorous plants that will thrive in all
climates. They are all wintered out of doors and
will bloom freely the first season. Fairfax Roses are
celebrated among rose growers
for their extraordinary beauty
and wonderful bloom.
1919 Rose and Seed
Book Free
They describe and illustrate hun-
dreds of beautiful hardy kinds of
Fairfax Roses, Vegetables, and flowers
that will thrive in your garden, they
tell you how to grow Fairfax Roses,
flowers and vegetables with the greatest
success.
$50 in Gold
Will be given for the finest specimen
of Vegetables grown from our seeds.
Your copy of these free books are
awaiting your request. Write to-day.
W. R. GRAY Box 6
OAKTON, Fairfax Co., Virginia
“VALUE FOR VALUE” IS OUR MOTTO
When in need of Reliable Nursery Stock remember that we have it.
Our prices are always reasonable. Our service is prompt.
Catalogue for the asking.
THE BAY STATE NURSERIES
678 Adams Street North Abington, Mass.
C7
Readers of Garden Magazine—
_Respond to
The Call of the Times!
Vassar College,
Bennett School,
Glen Eden.
We will take good care of your orders with Quality
Flowers and Quality service.
THE SALTFORD FLOWER SHOP
Poughkeepsie New York
F. T. D. Members
7? el 99 Readers of Garden Magazine—
Respond to
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Tf we fill your order, our reputation
is your guarantee of efficiency.
= Telegraph Us. CPS
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(55°1SS GATES SE
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE MONTH’S REMINDER, DECEMBER, 1918
The purpose of the Reminder is to call to your attention the things which should be thought about or done during the next few weeks. For full details as
to how to do the different things suggested, see the current or back issues of THE GARDEN Macazine. An index of contents 1s prepared for each completed
volume, and 15 sent gratis on request. Prepars now for next year’s garden.
O NOT stop fall work by the calender,
but continue until everything is frozen
up tight.
Taking advantage of the last week
or two will enable you to “get the jump” on
Next year’s work.
Prepare now for plowing or spading the
vegetable garden as soon as frost is out next
March. Is everything out of the ground?
Oyster plants and parsnips can remain where
grown, but it is better to take out and store
or trench them.
Don’t leave any refuse in the garden to get
frozen in. If you haven’t done the job already,
remove pea brush, bean poles, old corn stalks,
cabbage tops, vegetables that froze before matur-
ing, and anything else that may be in the way
Next spring, or serve to protect or harbor insect
eggs or disease germs during next winter. Make
that part of the garden “‘clean as a whistle.”
Burn all the weeds and refuse. The clean flame
is the only sure cure for any left-over which may
be infected. Don’t take a chance by putting it
on the compost heap.
For safe and easy burning, make a cylinder of
chicken wire or something a little heavier, if
available, stand this on end, turn out the lower
edge, and hold it in place with a few large
stones or bricks and burn your rubbish in it.
Soil for Spring Use
IF YOU expect to start plants in the house
early in the spring, get in a supply now of
finely sifted garden loam, leaf mold and sand.
You can do this work now in a half hour or
an hour; while it may take several hours of hard
work when the ground is frozen next spring.
Winter Mulch in the Flower Garden
HERE is no hurry about actually getting
it on the ground, unless by the time you
read this severely cold weather has already set in
and the ground has frozen hard. Leaves or
short, clean, dry manure make a good mulch
material. A convenient way to hold it in place
is to use short stakes and a border of 12-inch
chicken wire to hold the mulching material in
place where it would otherwise be likely to get
scattered about the lawn or grounds or blow off.
Beds for Spring Planting
IF YOU are planning to make any new flower
beds or a rose bed next spring, this is the last
chance to do the work (if the ground hasn’t frozen
up yet.) The advantage of doing it now instead
of waiting until spring is not only that there is
more time but also that the job will be done
much more thoroughly than it is likely to be
done then, and the soil being prepared several
months in advance will be in a very much bet-
ter state than if fixed just before it is wanted
for planting. Remove all soil for a distance
of a few feet or so, carefully give the next
six or eight inches of loam in the bottom a
first breaking or loosening with a pick, if it is a
hard clay sub-soil, and put in eight inches or so
of coarse cinders. Then fill in with soil and
manure to within half a foot or so of the top, and
finish off with good, clean loam, heaping up
slightly to allow for settling during the winter.
If this work is done now, setting out your flowers
or rose garden next spring will be the easiest kind
of work—nothing to it but to add a little bone
meal or fertilizer and to stick in the plants!
Flowers for Indoors
Moet of the hardy perennials will bloom
early in a frame or even indoors if taken
up and potted now, and started into growth in
February or early March. ‘Things of this kind,
blooming weeks ahead of those outdoors will be
much more appreciated than they ever were
when flowering in the open. Simply take up
carefully, put in generous sized pots with good
drainage, water thoroughly, if the soil is dry, and
store in a moist place or in a frame outside where
they will not freeze too hard. An occasional
touch of frost will not hurt them.
Pot up Cuttings Early
IF YOU are starting new plants from cuttings
—and that is the quickest and the surest way
to obtain a supply of most of the new things you
may be interested in—take them out of the sand
just as soon as the roots begin to be put out.
But don’t put ’em in big pots! The smaller the
pots the better, at first. “Thumb” pots, or
2-inch pots are the best. Use light soil with a
good proportion of sand in it, for the first potting.
If only larger pots are available, put three or
four cuttings around the edge of a four or five
inch pot. Pot firmly; water thoroughly; then
leave quite dry for a few days, and keep shaded
from hot sun until growth starts.
Tricks of Weather
BE CAREFUL with watering, even if you
have only asingle frame. ‘There is a simple
tule to try to follow—water in such a way that
the foliage and soil surface will be dried off by
night. Keeping that in mind, you will be guided
by circumstances. But remember also that the
less frequently you have to water the better—
and during the next few months comparatively
little water is needed. Also that it is much
easier to water a second time than to get soil that
has been over-watered dried out again at this
season of the year.
Read last month’s Garpen Macazine for the
routine of greenhouse management at this season.
Plants Inside the House
PLANTS which have been taken in for the
winter window garden are likely to begin to
show signs of trouble about this time. To keep
them in good condition you must do three things:
ist.—Water frequently enough to keep the
ground evenly moist, but never over-saturated
or muddy.
2nd.—Give plenty of fresh air, and all the
sunshine the variety needs (many things will do
well without direct sunlight).
3d.—Spray, fumigate or dip the plants regu-
larly in nicotine sulphate solution, to control
aphis or other sucking insects, which cause
ninety per cent. of plant insect troubles indoors
other than those of air conditions.
Keep house plants well fed. Plants in pots
soon exhaust the available food supply in the
soil, if it is not replenished. ‘There are several
good complete plant foods for flowers, especially
designed for house use. A teaspoonful or two of
fine bone flour worked into each pot is excellent.
A little diluted ammonia, applied when the soil
is already moist, is also good. Do nor use olive
oil, castor oil, beef tea, or any similar concoction
which you may chance to hear recommended
or even see advised in print.
The Bulb Border
ANY bulbs have come in very late this
year. If you did not order American
grown stock—which by the way is proving to
be in every way as good as the imported—you
may still be waiting fot some of the varieties —
that are usually in the ground by this time.
Get ready for planting, even if the bulbs are later
than ever before. After the border is prepared,
a mulch of straw or manure will keep it from
freezing, so that you can plant as late as you
please.
148
Warning! Do not put the mulch in place
where bulbs have been planted until after the
ground begins to freeze; it makes a harboring
place for mice, which are likely to injure the
bulbs, or the first growth in the spring. ~
Orchard and Small Fruits
"TIME now to get the mulch on the straw-
berry bed, as the ground freezes up. A few
pieces of board or small cord wood will be handy
to help hold it in place, until settled by rain or
snow so that it won’t blow about.
Attend to the cane fruits, raspberries, black-
berries, etc., now. Prune out all old wood, and
cut the tall canes back a little. If left until
spring this work is likely to be neglected in the
push of other things.
Trenches for Next Year
SPADE up or trench the soil for next spring.
Except where you have sown cover crops,
spade up the ground this fall just before freezing
weather. Do not rake off, but leave the ground
rough and the sub-soil in lumps on the surface.
In this way you can make valuable use of your
sometime enemies frost and snow, as alternate
freezing and thawing during the early spring will
so disintegrate and pulverize the soil that it
will be in prime condition for making a seed bed
in the spring.
Put in the Winter‘s Celery
Me! of the celery which has been blanched.
out of doors for fall use will be exhausted
this month and any heads left out of doors and
banked up until now for holiday and winter use
should now be put in the celery cellar or vegetable
pits outside. Cover pits with hay or straw on
the approach of hard freezing adding to the cover=
ing as cold weather increases sufficiently to pro-
tect the celery. For storing inside, use long,
narrow boxes as deep as the celery is tall, leave
soil on roots and pack in as tightly as the plants
will comfortably go. If the soil is dry, wet
slightly around the roots, but leave the tops and
stalks dry. Growth will continue in storage.
Mulching and Feeding
AFIER the ground freezes, protect any fall
plantings. Remember, this mulch also:
is not to keep things from freezing but to keep
them frozen after they do freeze, and so prevent
undue starts.
Wherever you have sown a cover crop, rye,
or rye and vetch, to grow through the winter.
it is a good plan to use whatever manure or com=
post you may have on hand as a top dressing late
in the fall. The rains and melting snows will
wash this down to the roots, and you will get it
all back again when you spade the cover crop
under in the spring.
Greenhouse Fuel
LJGHINING changes are the order of the
day, and what is prohibited to-day may be
lezal by to-morrow! At all events the famous
“co% fuel order’ for greenhouses has been mod-
ied in part. As this is written the governing
rule for private greenhouses in New York state
permits the 50% of bituminous coal, “but under
no circumstances are they to receive or be al- -
lowed to burn anthracite coal.” All state fuel
administrators have been instructed that “florists
may burn bituminous coal, steam, anthracite,
or coke breeze’ without having such fuel apply
on their quota, if in the opinion of the local
administrators there is a surplus of such fuel
“which can be spared.” Or, in other words,
greenhouses generally may use coal other than
domestic anthracite sizes up to requirements 7f
they can get it!
DrecEMBER, 1918
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
ATAU ULLAL TTS
Garden Literature
For Amateurs
“Could not afford to miss a_ single
number of your valuable magazines.”
“They help me more than all other
magazines on gardening combined.”
“They are the most wonderful guidance
for an amateur.’
These are the universal com-
ments of all readers.
Flower Lore
A magazine on the practical growing of flowers.
Vegetable Lore
Tells you how, when and what to grow, and
how to prepare for the table.
Both are “delightfully different” and “surpris-
ingly unique.” Nothing is ever repeated—all
suggestions are timely—appear once a month.
Write for sample copies and rates.
The ideal gift for gardening friends..
MAURICE FULD, Garden Expert
Phone Bryant 2926
7 West 45th Street New York
ESA NAT
TNA NTA oS
FARR ‘ a Pook of 112 pages, 30 full
Hardy Plant? isso (5.
Specialties
the hardy garden, contain-
ing information on upward
of 500 varieties of Peonies (the most complete col-
lection in existence); Lemoine’s new and rare
Deutzias, Philadelphus and Lilacs; Irises (both Jap-
anese and German) of which I have all the newer
introductions as well as the old-time favorites, and
a comprehensive list of hardy perennials.
Garden lovers who do not have the Sixth Edition may secure a
complimentary copy if they send me their name and address.
Bertrand H. Farr
Wyomissing Nurseries Co.
103 Garfield Avenue Wyomissing, Pa.
KNOBLE BROS.
1836 West 25th Street
SEEVELAND, OHIO
Let us take care of your Cleveland
& é Td 7 ee
wants. Choice Flowers — Always.
Irish Roses
Tn varieties which have won the King’s Cup, the Holland Park
silver ye the Wand Cup for four years in succession, and more
n fifty first prizes. Extra strong plants, which are set early
should produce blooms from June to frost.
Send for our specia! list of Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas,
and Teas. Order a- once for early spring shipment.
Rosedale Nurseries
S. G. HARRIS, Propr.
Tarrytown, N. Y,
Box G,
December Planting in the South
ROTECTION against the disastrous effects
of freezing and thawing, winds, snow and
sleet is the important part of winter work
for December. Newly planted trees and
shrubs should be tied to at least two strong stakes,
and before the ground freezes earth should be
packed firmly about the roots. After the ground
is frozen coarse manure can be put at the base of
the Rose bushes and all newly planted trees and
shrubs. Tie with soft twine all valuable evergreens
to prevent the weight of snow from bending and
breaking them. Tie up fig bushes and Hydrangeas
with pine boughs or straw about them. Tuck in
the plants snugly for the long winter’s nap. Only
tender Roses need much protection especially the
standards and they can have straw tied around
them. Others need only a mulch of loose, rotted
manure.
Put coarse manure between the rows of spinach,
but not on it, for when the warm days come in
winter it is apt to burn.
Cover the celery bed with pine tags or straw
held down by planks laid down in roof fashion in
order to shed the rain and snow.
All root crops can be kept in kilns. (See De-
cember 1916 GarpeN Macazine.) An unheated
cellar is a better storage place for roots.
There should now be a good winter garden.
Leeks, parsnips, salsify, and carrots remain where
planted and are used asneeded. There are tur-
nip tops for greens as well as the upland cress
that grows wild and these two mixed half and
half make an excellent bailed salad.
Lettuce in the frames should be watered in the
morning only and then only when needed. It
does not require much water in winter. Give
plenty of air every day by lifting the sash a little
in heat of day, and closing in early afternoon.
Examine the orchard trees for San José scale,
and spray with self-boiled lime-sulphur several
times during the winter; also cut out dead limbs
and those that: crowd each other. Plant fruit
and nut trees as long as the ground is not frozen
nor too wet.
Plant the early flowering bulbs, such as Hya-
cinths, Tulips, Narcissus, and Crocus, ,and plant
as deep as four times the size of the bulb. Do
not cover heavily with manure or they will begin
blooming the warm days of winter very likely,
and get nipped by a sudden cold spell.
Calla Lilies, Hippeastrum and Amaryllis,
that have been resting during the summer, should
be watered from manure barrel, and brought
into the Conservatory or Greenhouse.
Pansies and Daisies and Violets, although
hardy and blooming out of doors in mild days, yet
if protected from snow by having them in cold-
frames, can be gathered more readily.
If the weather is open, strawberries and all
small fruit, and asparagus, can be planted this
month, but the ground should be loose and dry.
If Poppies, Sweet Alyssum, Mignonette, For-
get-me-nots, Phlox Drummondi were not sowed
in November, do so now if the weather is open
and the ground unfrozen.
These will bloom the first warm days of spring.
Forget-me-nots planted in among the wall-flowers
are a lovely combination, and bloom as early as
February.
Virginia. J. M. Patrerson.
149
ANSWERS ALL
GARDENING
QUESTIONS
Everything you want to know about
growing vegetables and flowers.
How to plant, when to plant and the
kinds to plant, including all worth-while
novelties.
Special cultural directions by famous
authorities on growing vegetables and
flowers.
Sent free to any one mentioning this
publication.
HENRY A. DREER
714-16 Chestnut Street
PHILADELPHIA
Prepare for Spring
Planting Now—
: it is none too early!
Trees, Shrubs, Ever-
greens, Perennials,
Roses, Etc.
All our stock is
of proven merit.
Some of the finest
estates in the coun-
try have been sup-
plied thru us in the
past century.
Over 800 acres Oi specially seiceted stock to choose from.
Our nurseries are 20 minutes from Penn. Terminal, N.Y.C.
Pay us avisit, phoneor write. Completecataloguesent free.
American Nursery Co. Flushing, L. I., N. Y.
Peonies,
Roses,
and other
“Say It With Flowers”
Iris for spring and mid-summer, with Phlox
for later blooms, will carry your messages to
those who need cheer and comfort.
There are many other perennials, which added
to your garden, will round out a full season of
bloom for many purposes.
My Special Catalogue of Irises, Phlox, Peo-
nies, and other perennials will be mailed on
request.
ROSEDALE NURSERIES
S. G. HARRIS, Proprietor
Box G
Tarrytown, New York
You will be de-
lighted with a truck
load of trees like
these, fruit trees
that bear sooner
than usual, old li-
lacs, syringa and
tall evergreens to
make the place
cozy all winter.
Safe arrival by
rail and satisfactory
growth guaranteed.
Hicks Nurseries
Westbury
Long Island
Box M Phone 68
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
HE National Plant,
Flower and Fruit
Guild, of which
Mrs. John Wood
Stewart is president has
again found how to do one
of those extremely useful
things which everyone wonders hadn’t been done
before. Just as last year their truck brought in the
apples which the near-by farmers said were not
worth marketing and sold them at a low price
and in goodly quantity to those who wanted ap-
ples and hadn’t been able to buy. This Guild
saw the emptiness of the camp and started to
remedy it:
“Whoever has visited a soldiers’ camp, must
depart with a feeling of pity that in this land of
bounty we cannot offer our boys more cheerful,
more attractive and more homelike surround-
ings. It may not be the duty of the
authorities—perhaps it is not pre-essential—
but it is the duty of the folks at home to help
in a movement which will express to our fighters
our appreciation of what they are doing, and
our desire to make their Camps a pleasant
place to live in. This Guild is call-
ing for every man, woman, and child to join the
army of camp Beautifiers—and see that every
camp blossoms forth into a spot of beauty.”
AMP UPTON was the first to welcome this
idea of the National Plant, Flower and Fruit
Guild, and commanding officers of other camps
have been warmly sympathetic. The Guild
requested of the camp officer to appoint a com-
mittee composed of the permanent organiza-
tions of his camp—Y.M.C.A., Red Cross,
Knights of Columbus, etc., whose duty would be
to form a planting plan, prepare the ground, and
see that the plants were properly set out and
cared for.
Attractive posters have been distributed
through likely centres, and the Guild’s offer is
catholic enough, “If any one knows places where
these can do good and are wanted, send us word
and we shall promptly do the rest.”
The Guild’s circular had a peculiarly strong
appeal to gardeners—especially to intelligent
and thrifty gardeners—it was a circular so very
explicit and to the point—the idea being, “enlist
your garden, give of your surplus, and the ma-
terial will be abundant enough.”
Again: “‘We do not wish you to rob your gar-
den, nor to sacrifice any of the plants dear to
your heart—but there is a way of making
your garden do its bit, to the betterment of
itself.”
“No doubt you have Tris, Phloxes, Peonies,
Larkspur and other hardy plants * * * which
would prosper more if they were lifted and
divided * * *
“And then you will find that your Hollyhocks
have seeded themselves, and that you have hun-
dreds of young plants growing * * *. We can
use millions of Hollyhocks.
““And then you have some shrubs or bushes
that have grown too large,,;or you have more
Roses than you care for. We and the boys will
be glad to have them.
“Have you sod to spare? We can use it by
the thousands of yards. Of course we shall be
grateful for even a small amount.
“Have you a cold frame? Why not sow some
seeds of hardy plants such as Pansies, Forget-
me-nots, Larkspur, Foxglove, Hollyhock, ete.
We will be glad to have them next spring; and
then we want your surplus of Dahlias, Cannas,
Gladiolus, Lilies, or any other root which you
keep through the winter and of which you always
have more than you know what to do with.* * *
“* * * Prepare for next spring, and when you
send your list to the seedsman get enough
seeds so that you can spare us thousands of
Asters, Zinnias, Marigolds, Calendula, Phlox
Drummondi, Calliopsis, Petunias, or any other
good annuals.
“We want those camps to be a riot of color
next year.
UNCLE SAM’S GARDENING
A News Feature of National Current Activities
“Tf you are not within driving distance of any
camp, send to us your name and the name of
your nearest camp, and we will send you a camp-
garden label.
“Pack and ship the plants, and we will refund
the money you pay for expressage or postage.”
weer gardener could resist? According to
the results very few resisted and as the
fall closed the Camps bid fair to drop the wilder-
ness, or rather desert, aspect, and to blossom
like the Rose.
I venture the opinion that the Guild’s seductive
and compelling circular was the work of an ex-
pert gardener.
florists responded handsomely to the appeal—one
firm giving 1,000 Gladiolus bulbs for every camp
in the country. Others have filled hundreds of
window boxes and delivered them to the camp,
some gave Geraniums by the thousands, others
presented handsome young evergreens. May
the good work go on as long as the camps exist.
The address of the National Plant, Flower and
Fruit Guild is 70 Fifth Avenue, and the National
Chairman of the Soldiers’ Camp Gardens is
Maurice Fuld.
OE of the most useful things that garden
clubs and the various food production asso-
ciations will be doing this winter will be ac-
quainting themselves with work done in other
states and by other organizations. During the
summer and early autumn all of us were too busy
to do more than put through the immediate work.
Among the states which have done interesting
work is Maryland, in which state the Council of
Defense was the first to offer people not only
advice—which is easy, and often more blessed
to give than to recetve—but real help, purchasing
tractors, which could be used in preparing the
land. Along this line of help for the small
farmer offering the use of state-owned tractors
and equipment such as he is unable to buy, and
yet the lack of which place him at a disadvantage
commercially with larger owners, will do more
toward stimulating his effort in production than
many pamphlets. It will also bring about a
spirit of real codperation with the government,
while the farmer will feel that the government is
cooperating with him to make his work a success.
VAcant lot gardens are no new thing for
Baltimore, for the city last year reported no
less than twenty thousand food-producing back-
yard gardens. Years before other cities went en-
thusiastically a-gardening, the Baltimore women
were getting the work admirably under way,
with lectures and contests and various forms of
garden propaganda and showing colored lantern
slides of charming French and English gardens—
tiny working men’s and peasants’ gardens; not
de luxe estates—a form of garden- propaganda
one wishes could be more widely used. It is a
delightful type of gardening and while we are
making our gardens highly productive of food,
we might as well make them productive of beauty
also. That the Baltimore war gardens should
have been highly successful was to be expected.
Miss Martha O’Neill has been a moving spirit
in the Baltimore gardens for some years, and
Baltimore has had a very competent garden
superintendent in Mrs. Adelaide Derringer,
who had her training at the Lowthorpe School
of Landscape Gardening and has done very able
work—especially in the Baltimore war gardens.
HE National Prize Certificate, No. 1, for
canned vegetables put up by a war gardener,
has been awarded to Mrs. Frank P. Brown of
Cincinnati. Mrs. Brown took first prizes that
amounted to $1co. With this she bought
150
I hear also that nurserymen and -
WarSavings Stamps. Her
garden was 100 x 150 feet.
She grew enough for her
table all summer, and in.
addition put up 125 cans.
of vegetables and had 25,
bushels of potatoes.
The National War Garden Commission, which
is responsible for the awards, reports two other
Ohio women among the first nine blue ribbon
winners. Certificate No. 2. went to Mrs. Isa-
bella Jermain, an Indian woman of the Lac du
Flambeau Agency in Wisconsin. Other women
who have been reported to the National Com-
mission as deserving National recognition are:
Miss Flora Krugman, Elyria, Ohio; Miss Alice
Voorhees, Bay Head, N. J.; Miss Valesca Diener,
Burlington, Wis.; Mrs. W. H. Derriom, Rock-
wood, ITenn.; Miss Elizabeth Lindner, Cincinnati,
Ohio; Miss “iNisna McManus, DeWitt, Iowa;
Mrs. T. A. Chittenden, Akron, Ohio.
ARION, Ind., claims the credit of having
more war gardens than any town of its
size in North America. J. DeWolf, of the
Marion War Garden Association reports 14,000
war gardens in a population of 27,000. This
means an average of more than one gardén to
every two people. (It looks a little, also, as if
some of the Marion war gardeners in their en-
thusiasm must be having gardens that are.
twins and triplets.)
COMMUNITY gardening, tried this yearfor the
first time in Minneapolis proved a great suc-
cess. According to Mr. H. U. Nelson, Secretary of
the Minnesota Garden Club, his city ranks first in
the country in gardening prowess. Minneapolis
has a record of more than 10,000 families raising
war gardens on acreage that totals more than
2,000, and the crops thereon valued conservatively
reach the sum of $500,000. This estimate does
not include the 1,500 gardens outside the city
limits cultivated by Minneapolitans, but is al-
most wholly vacant lot and waste land gardening,
so that the work represents salvage and reclama-
tion as well as gardening. Evidently the city
gardeners intend the land to stay reclaimed for
25,000 small berry bushes were set out beside the
regular planting of garden crops.
he crop acreage was as follows:
CROP ACRES VALUE
Potatoes..cte stant oeite 645 $161,250
Qnions. ee sopace eee 95 71,250
Tomatoes’... ties ce ee 185 55,500
IBGanS yale ges ee ee 200 28,800
Cabbage. 2 ieee 195 27,300
Corn) soy. 55 Ree ora. ee oe 280 20,160
Peas) tite, on Seo eens Maen ee go 19,440
Cucumbersae epee eee 75 11,250
Mielonsé 0:07 eer 80 10,000
Beétsiai techn scenes ee 85 95542
Carrots fe eee ae ee 45 6,300
eetcirces SA sn. oe 30 5,100
Radishesiyi55.+ 0 ae. es, 25 5,000
Parsnipsic: fonecomaenennat 25 3,750
Miscellaneous............. 40 7,200
2,095 $441,842
In the twenty-five largest community gardens
435 persons were employed, one unit having 54
gardens.
HILE Blue Ribbons and Prizé Certificates
do not seem to fall to the lot of County
officials, Register Richardson Webster, of Brook-
lyn has been receiving from the National War
Garden Commission some very handsome bou-
quets, and as Doctor Watts held up to emulation
the busy bee, so Mr. Percival Ridsdale, Secre-
tary of the National Commission, is prepared
to send word of what Register Webster has ac-
complished to the Registers, County Clerks, or
other officials having charge of land records in
counties all over the country. He hopes to
stir them up to undertake the same line of work
all over the country, “so that in another year the
Victory garden movement will be as well devel-
DeEcEMBER, 1918
Garden Sash
That Hold
The Heat
When the Sun’s Heat Rays in Winter fall upon the SUN-
LIGHT Sash. they pass through and are saved to warm up
the bed beneath. It becomes a Summer Spot in Winter
Time, not only by day but overnight, for the double-glazing
holds the stored heat and the plants in the bed grow
unchecked.
That’s the story in brief of the Tax
Sunlight double-glazed sash.
Get some and set them in
your garden. They are also
used on the top and sides of
the Sunlight ready-made
small greenhouses.
Ask for a Catalogue and
Price Chart
‘and Cold-frames
Sunlight Double Glass Sash Co.
937 East Broadway Louisville, Ky.
IRIS “Fair Lily of France’?
“Blue Flags, Yellow Flags, Flags all freckled.
Which will you take, Yellow, blue, speckled?
Take which you will—speckled, blue, yellow—
Each in its way has not a fellow.”
All the above and then some. 15 cts. each, 12 forthe
price of ro. Unnamed $1.00 per 12, $5.00 per 100.
(Not the Parcel Post Kind—Too Large) Price list free
GEO. N. SMITH Wellesley Hills, Mass.
DWARF APPLE TREES
DWARF PEAR TREES
DWARF PLUM TREES
DWARF CHERRY TREES
DWARF PEACH TREES
Catalogue Free
THE VAN DUSEN NURSERIES
C. C. McKAY, Mer. Box G, Geneva, N. Y.
ILLLLLLSLLLLLLLLLLSLLLLLLLLLLSLLLLLLLLLLLLTTLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL SELL LULL LLL SLL L SLL bbe)
Traxler’s Collection of Fragrant Peonies
This collection consists of all of the fragrant varieties of
Mr. Brand’s “America’s Best,” all of the world’s best, and
nothing but the best. Nothing but fragrant varieties and
only the best of these. Why not try a shipment of our
thrifty, vigorous, northern grown stock? Send for price list.
JOHN A. TRAXLER
225 West 24th St:, Minneapolis, Minn,
\sesne ROSES
2
LL,
Dingee roses are always grown on their own roots
—and are absolutely ¢he des¢ for the amateur planter.
Send to-day for our
N “New Guide to Rose Culture” for 1919
PS —it's free. Itisn’t a catalogue—it’s a practical work on rose
Qa rowing. Profusely illustrated. Offers over 500 varieties of
: Roses and other plants, bulbs and seeds, and tells how to grow
them. Safe delivery guaranteed. Established 1850. 70 green-
houses. THE DINGEE & CONARD CO., Box 37, West Grove, Pa.
GARDEN LABELS
Know when, where and what you planted. Label your garden.
100 wood labels in assortment from the big 12-inch for marking
garden rows to little copper-wired label for marking trees and
shrubs. Attractively packed with marking pencil 70 cts.,
post paid.
C. H. GORDINIER
Troy, N. Y.
Moss Aztec Pottery
Offers a wide choice of objects, from simple fern dishes and
bud vases to impressive jardinieres and plant stands. Its
predominating characteristic is refined elegance in designs and
colors. A post card request will bring you the ‘Moss Aztec”
catalogue and name of nearest dealer.
DISTINCTIVE FERN PAN $1.50
is square with
separate liners
measuring 7x7
inches by 4 inches
deep. Order as
No. 495.
PETERS & REED
POTTERY
COMPANY
So. Zanesville, O.
<< |)
oped everywhere as it isin Brooklyn.” It must,
by the way, be peculiarly exasperating to the ease-
loving fraternity of county officials, when one
of their number does something of real service
to the community and demonstrates thereby
what his fellows could do if they cared to exert
themselves. Register Webster was able to hunt
for owners of unused land in Kings County only,
as the records of his office cover only that county,
but the work he is doing has attracted attention
outside; he recetves many inquiries about war
gardens in other counties—which inquiries he
refers to the proper authorities. Non-obtaining
of the owner's consent has usually been due to
inability to locate the owner because of lack of
address and the Register is making plans to take
control next year of this “slacker” land. In
some of the Western states, local authorities
have been given permission to take charge of this
Jand and assign it to whoever will farm it, wher-
ever the owner cannot be found or refuses his
permission. Register Webster, who believes in
taking time by the forelock has been sending
out cards to all who received war garden permits
or booklets offering his help for next year. No
one case has yet been heard from in which the
gardener intends to abandon his efforts and many
have already filed their application for larger
tracts of land for next season. The Register is
acting on these applications immediately in order
that the land may be fertilized this fall. Which
action we commend to other vacant lot superin-
tendents.
1 MAKING plans for next year’s food pro-
duction, the use of the automobile should
figure largely. “Three million men in the
Army,” says Mr. Charles Lathrop Pack, ‘“‘have
seen what the automobile can do in getting food
to them no matter where they are—in camp, on
the firing line, anywhere; and they have learned
the lesson—the motor truck is a valuable agent
in delivering food F. O. B. the kitchen door.
And the friends of the boys at the front, who also
have noted the usefulness and agility of the
motor truck as a means of bringing supplies to the
place where they are wanted, are the Patient
Consumers, who next year, it is hoped, will re-
member this demonstration of the motor’s use-
fulness and no longer be content to watch fruit
and vegetables spoil while freight is “tied up,”
instead they will establish flexible motor truck
lines which will bring the surplus from outlying
gardens to dozens of small markets in the cities
and towns.
“In many parts of the country,” says Mr.
Pack, “they are following the plan put in opera-
tion by Mrs. Andrew Wright Crawford of Bryn
Mawr, where automobile owners lend their
cars to volunteer food savers who go into the
country and help pick fruit and harvest the
garden crops.”
NEXE year will also see “land army units”
equipped as “flying squadrons,” with
motors, tools, and some farm machinery, so
that the Unit can go where needed and take
what is necessary for work with it. From all
over the country have come in golden reports
of the work of the Women’s Land Army who
have undertaken all sorts of work, and at present
writing, in New England are proposing to “get
out” wood, which seems rather strenuous, even
for a woman’s Land Army. It looks as if we in
America might be developing a new type of
American girl, somewhat akin to those “mighty
daughters of the plough” of which Tennyson
sung in his “Princess” and yet supplied his im-
aginary women’s college with only three or four
—-not nearly enough to look after the farm work;
| as even a poet of to-day would know.
Frances Duncan.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
NOSDAAAAAAAAAAANANNANNNNAANNNAN NSS
7 SSS
‘ Gladiolus Enthusiasts
You Simply Must Have
PRINCE OF WALES
_ _ The gladiolus beautiful, color a clear, glorious, shimmer-
ing apricot salmon melting to a centre of the sweetest
yellow. The Ophelia Rose of the gladiolus world.
It is invariably selected by visitors as the most striking
and magnificent color combination in my gardens.
Prince of Wales is*extremely early with large flowers on a
tall, strong spike and is a rapid multiplier; this with its in-
comparable color gives a flower of singular charm. There
are many white, pink, yelléw and red gladioli but this is
the one and ‘only salmon. Awarded a First Class Certificate
at Haarlem, Holland.
I believe that I have the largest true stock of this variety
in America and although within the last two years this has
sold as high as $1.50 per bulb, I can offer it at the very
reasonable price of 25 cents apiece for strong flowering size
bulbs, $2.50 per dozen, postpaid.
Xmas Special
* Send $1.00 and your personal card and I will mail a
neat box of five bulbs ‘of Prince of Wales together with
descriptive and cultural leaflet, so as to arrive on Christmas,
at any friend’s address, that you may forward to me.
Prize Collection
For a limited time only I offer a Prize Collection of F77>7Y
flowering size bulbs in ten of the best varieties now grown in all
colors such as Pendleton, Schwaben, War, Peace, etc., together with
full cultural directions, postaid to any address for P02: This
collection will contain only the finest varieties and cannot be
equalled at the price anywhere.
The above collection and six bulbs of Prince of Wales, while
they last, postpaid for $2.00.
RAYMOND M. CHAMPE
Walled Lake, Oakland County, Michigan
VILL LLL LLL LLL LLL LLAMA LLL LLL Lz
Zs
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| SZ LLL LL LLL LLL bbb ddd LLL
Heatherhome Bulbs
’ For Fall Planting
There’s such a thing as superior quality in
Bulbs, insuring greater success in growing and
better flowets.
Heatherhome Bulbs are of the same exceptional
quality as Heatherhome Seeds and Plants.
Write for our Fall List to-day
Heatherhome Seed and Nursery Co.
(Formerly the Knight and Struck Co.) ~
258 Fifth Avenue
TOWNSEND’S TRIPLEX
The Greatest Grass Cutter on Earth
—Cuts a Swath 86 Inches Wide
Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, the
TRIPLEX MOWER will mow more lawn ina day than
the best motor mower ever made, cut it better and at
a fraction of the cost.
Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, it will
mow more lawn than any three ordinary horse-drawn
mowers with three horses and three men.
Send for catalogue illustrating all types of
TOWNSEND MOWERS
S. P. TOWNSEND & CO.
23 Central Ave. Orange, N. J.
New York City
All the Sunlight All Day Greenhouses
King Construction Co.
436 King’s Road North Tonawanda, N. Y.
Write for Booklet
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
, RHODES DOUBLE CUT
PRUNING SHIEAR
MY” RHODES MFG. CO.,
527 S. DIVISION AVE., GRAND RAPIDS, MICH.
Enables you to make any size yard or runway desired.
7 ft. long x 5 ft. high $4.13 per section
2 ft. Gin. long x 5 ft. high (gute) 1.76 ** OK
Place your order to-day.
you the greatest article for poultry or dog kennel purposes.
cover postage.
8 ft. long x 2 ft. high $2.20 per section
6 ft. long x 2 ft. high 1.76 «§ “
Above prices are for orders consisting of six sections or more and are F. O. B. cars Buffalo, N.Y. Bestarticle on the
market for young chicks, ducks, geese and other small fowl and animals, also for enclosing small gardens in season.
You will be well satisfied. Send check, money order or New York Draft and we will send
Booklet 67AA describing this system will be mailed you upon request with six cents to
BUFFALO WIRE WORKS CO.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
HE
only pruner
made that cuts from
both sides of the limb
and does not bruise the
bark. Made in all styles
and sizes. All shears de-
= livered free to your door.
—S Write for circular and prices
rrr eee
SUNN
“BUFFALO” PORTABLE FENCING SYSTEM
Can be moved to other locations at will.
Prices as follows:
76
(formerly Scheeler’s Sons) 46% Terrace, BUFFALO, N.Y. =
Sail AT
66 TRADE 99
RUST PROOF
For private gardens, lawns, estates, etc., aS
well as public grounds. Made of heavy,
cold-drawn steel wires. Held together b
patented steel clamps. Galvanized AFTE
making, which makes it rust proof. Write
for catalog B.
Ask your hardware dealer for EXCELSIOR rust proof tree
. guards, trellises, bed guards, railings, gates, etc.
WRIGHT’ WIRE CO. Worcester, Mass.
POTASH
F. SOAP NOS
= tc oure death to tree pests. Contains nothing injurious to
trees—fertilizes the soil. Used and endorsed by U. S.
Dept. of Agriculture.
FREE Our valuable book on Tree and Plant
Diseases. Write for it to-day.
iginal Maker, 2111-15 E. Susquehanna Ave., Phila.
James Good, Or
PRUNING LESSONS. M. G. Kains of Port Washington, L. I.,
author of ‘Principles and Practise of Pruning,” ‘‘Home Fruit
Grower,” ‘‘Plant Propagation,” etc., and Lecturer on Horticulture at
Columbia University, offers to teach clubs and individuals the art of
pruning for fruit or ornament. Special terms November to February.
“Home Attractions”
PERGOLAS
Lattice Fences
Garden Houses
For Beautifying Home
Grounds
When writing enclose 10c.
and ask for Pergola Cata-
‘
logue ‘H‘-30,
HARTMANN-SANDERS CO.
' Elston and Webster Aves., Chicago, Ill. »
4 New York City Office, 6 E. 39th Street
The original
chemical closet. More
comfortable, healthful, conveni-
ent. Takes the place of all outdoor
toilets, where germs breed. Bo
ready for the long, cold winter.
Have a warm, sanitary, comfort-
able, odorless toilet right in the
_ house anywhere you wantit. Don't
go out in the cold, A boon ta
invalids,
GUARANTEED ODORLESS
The germs are killed bya
chemical in water in the
container. Empty once #
month as easy aa ashes,
Closet guaranteed. Thirty
“iat trial, Ask for catalog
@nd price,
BOWE SANITARY MFG, CO,
Cultivate Your Garden
the ‘‘PERFECTION’”’ Way
The “Perfection” Cultivator kills weeds,
aerates the soil, conserves moisture. Can
be adjusted many ways and anybody
can work it. Write for full details
to-day.
Satisfaction guaranteed or
money refunded
LEONARD SEED CO.
226-230 West Kinzie St.
Chicago, Illinois
Any of
three sizes
$3.50 each
No. 1, with two discs
with 6 inch or 7 inch
knives, will work rows 9
to 11 inches wide.
No. 2, with four discs for use with
7%, 8% and 8% inch knives, will
work 11 to 14 inch wide rows.
No, 3, with four discs, and to or 11 inch
knives, works rows 13 to 16 inches wide.
Descriptive circular and catalogue
of seeds for present planting FREE
> Beautify Your Garden
With
GAPOWwAY POTTERY
Catalog on Request
_GATOWAY Trrra-GTtA ©MPANY
== 3214 WALNUT ST., PHILADELPHIA
A
p
MR. ROBERT PYLE—the well-known Garden Lecturer and
Rosarian invites correspondence from garden lovers and societies.
Subject — “The American Rose Garden” illustrated with finely
colored lantern slides. Address: West Grove, Pa.
STATEMENT OF THE OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT,
Etc. OF THE GARDEN MAGAZINE, published in accordance
with the Act of Congress of August 24, 1912: Publishers, Doubleday,
Page & Co., Garden City, N. Y.; Editor and Managing Editor,
Leonard Barron, Garden City, N. Y.; Owners, Doubleday, Page
& Co., Garden City, N. Y.
Stockholders holding x per cent. or more of total amount of stock on
Oct. 1, 1918, F. N. Doubleday, Garden City, N. Y.; W. H. Page,
London, England; H. S$. Houston, Garden City, N. Y.; S. A. Everitt,
Garden City, N. Y.; A. W. Page, Garden City, N. Y.; Russell Double-
day, Garden City, N. Y.; Nelson Doubleday, Garden City, N. Y.; W.
F. Etherington, New York City; Alice DeGraff, Oyster Bay, N. Y.
Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders holding
I per cent. or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other
securities: None.
(Signed) DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
; By S. A. Everitt, Treasurer.
Sworn and subscribed before me this rst day of October, 1918.
(Signed) John J. Hessian, Notary Public.
Queens County, N. Y.
Certificate filed in Nassau Co.
Commission Expires March 31, 1919.
Enjoy plenty of running water
HIS Deming ‘‘Marvel’’ system is easily in-
stalled; self operating: and automatic—it
requires no attention. Driven by
electricity, a family of eight is served
at a cost of a cent or two a day.
e
catalogue of hand and power
systems sent free. Write
The Deming Co.
111 Depot St., Salem, O.
DrcEMBER, 1918
Don’t Wear
a Truss
Brooks’ Appliance, the
modern scientific invention, the
wonderful new discovery that
relieves rupture, will be sent on
trial. No obnoxious springs or
pads.
Brooks’ Rupture Appliance
Has automatic Air Cushions. Binds and draws
the broken parts together as you would a broken
limb. No salves. No lies. Durable, cheap. Sent
on trial to prove it. Protected by U.S. patents.
Catalog and measure blanks mailed free. Send
name and address today
C. E. BROOKS, 275F State St., Marshall, Mich.
*PLUMBINE EMERGENCY CEMENT’
‘To repair burst Waterpipes, Tanks,,
Sinks, Lavatories, etc. ‘ 4
4 POUND PACKAGE TO YOUR HOME SENT ON RECEIPT OF 25c. IN STAMPS, °
STONE TAR PRODUCTS COMPANY
97 SOUTH SIXTH STREET. _BROOKLYN. N.Y.
WANTED MRS. JORDAN
and 1000 other women poultry keepers to write _
P. J. Kelly, 213 Kelly Bldg., Minneapolis,
Minn., for his new text book on how to make.
lazy hens. lay. The book will be mailed —
FREE.
“HOW TO GROW ROSES”—Library, Edition; var pages—16 in
natural colors. Not a catalogue. Price $1, refunded on $5 order |
for plants. The Conard & Jones Co., Box 24, West Grove, Pa.
| LECTURES ON GARDENING
Can offer 15 distinct lectures on flower and vegetable gardening.
All are unique—absolutely practical for the amateur. Can give
hundreds of references. Satisfaction guaranteed. Special rates
to Garden Clubs.
Apply for particulars
MAURICE FULD 7 West 45th Street, New York
Large Asparagus, Rhubarb, and
Witloof Chicory Roots |
For forcing in cellar or greenhouse during win- “
ter. Also Parsley, Lettuce, and’ Everbearing:’
Strawberry plants for forcing.. Catalogue free.
Harry D. Squires, Good Ground, N. Y.
SUNDIALS
Real Bronze Colonial Designs
From $3.50 Up
Also Bird Baths, Garden Benches, Fountain
| Sprays and other garden requisites.
Manufactured by
The M. D. JONES CO.
Concord, Mass.
PAY BIG PROFITS
Send for illustrated Price-List
Raise your own honey. We
SEND 50c
start you right.
lto-day for 6 months’ trial subscription to American Bee
Journal (Oldest Bee Paper in America) and get 24-page
bee primer with catalogues of supplies free.
AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL, Box H, Hamilton, Ill.
must contain a, complete.
Kipling— that. is, if you
plan to afford your children :
Your
Library
the heritage of the Anglo-Saxon family,
Published by y .
Doubleday, Page & Co., Garden City, N.Y.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
miciping, the Nations Capital to
“OD Cee” —
4 -
ETc ccc au, un, wile flowers tC
om EET TEL ET LT pee
Ta
Little known facts about the Florists who supply the floral
wants of big men and help Washington “Say it with Flowers”
OT until I had watched a steady stream of callers walk up to the desks to order
flowers; not until I had seen fifty or more floral designs and decorations stretched
out in a seemingly endles chain, awaiting delivery; not until I saw a small fleet of motors
ready to “‘deliver the goods’’; not until then did I grasp the full significance and mean-
ing of “Say it with Flowers,’’ via Washington’s biggest and busiest flower shop, that
of Gude Bros., on F Street. And above it all,
Wilham F’. Gude, the personification of poise and | me ware nouse
power, smiles and directs the efforts of his helpers
whom he considers his partners in business.
9 October, 1918.
My aear Mr. Gude:
May I not thank you, and through you the Florists
Telegraph Delivery Association of the United States and
T’xvo Ranges of Greenhouses, Canada, for the very beavtiful basket of flowers which you
eamod0ice: under Glass Seasonable | vinusuen ==
Fllowers for All Occasions Cordially and sincerely yours,
summarizes the production power of A. Gude, the MbedorT y
man who keeps this store full of flowers. And Se a,
there are always ‘‘oodles’’ of flowers, from Daisies | yes? st.. nu.
to Orchids and Carnations to "Mums. ‘There are | ™:tist >.
flowers by the millions, tons, or any way you like OAs Eon
them and Mr. Wm. F. Gude modestly explains that, in the business of floral decorations,
they recognize no limitations. They will fill a church as easily as a club room—always
consistent with good taste, of course. They will go anywhere for business via Florist’s
Telegraph Delivery which System calls Wm. F. Gude its able President. But Gude
Bros. have never as yet produced enough flowers to even satisfy the nation’s Capital.
If you wish flowers delivered there, write, wire or phone them. You
may be sure that it will reach
The Men Who can carry the floral message to Garcia
GUDE BROS. CO.
FLORISTS
1214 F STREET, N.W.
WASHINGTON, D.C
itt NNT
- Will these great artists
sing in your home
on Christmas morning
ut
Victrola XVII, $275
Victrola XVII, electric, $332.50
Mahogany cr osk i
Will Caruso thrill you? Alma Gluck or John McCormack
play upon your heart strings? Harry Lauder regale you with
his inimitable fun? Victor Herbert’s Orchestra inVite you to
the lovely cadences of immortal melodies? Sousa stir Your good
American blood with “The Stars and Stripes Forever?”
The opera, the symphony orchestra, the Violin, the piano,
the military band, the dance orchestra, the vaudeville stage —
the Victrola brings you the shining lights of them all! The
foremost artists of the world make Victrola records exclusively.
Your Christmas will be merrier for the Victrola. And it
will be but the beginning of a long ard happy companionship
between your household and all the master-magicians of music
and entertainment.
Victors and Victrolas
$12 to $950
Victor Dealers
everywhere
Victor Talking Machine Company
Camden, N. J., U.S.A.
i f
y. always 100
t avy MaSter's Voice;
ee
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
JANUARY, 1919
PRICE, 25 CENTS
Save Seed
eee practicable, plant in hills—save the
seed that would otherwise be wasted in crops
- which are widely thinned
—avoid useless buying of high-priced seed, and
conserve the Nation’s supply by using the hill-
‘ dropping feature on the Iron Age Hill and
Drill Seeder. This saves from a half to three-
quarters of the seed used by drilling and very
greatly reduces cost and the labor of thinning.
Last year we all gardened as a matter of patriot-
ism. We learned what a fine thing it is to have
our own fresh, succulent vegetables, and a/so that
it pays! Now—the boys are coming home! New
nations are in the making—new nations for us to
lead and feed! More urgent than ever is the need for
Bigger Better Gardens
nee Pore. é
Ja aa ose Se
ee os
*) No. 306 Hill or Drill Seeder, fur=
|| rowing, p‘anting, covering, rolling
' and marking next row in one
] operation
Save Work
ARD work—back-breaking stooping, brow-be-
dewing hoeing and cultivating with old-fash-
ioned tools—is inefficient, foolish.
Take a hint from the leading market gar- ()/° >
deners in your neighborhood—the men who
raise big, luscious things to eat in a sensible, farm-like
way with Iron Age Combination Tools like that
shown here. Your dealer can show you many
sizes and kinds for use in small home gardens,
flower gardens, poultry farms, seed farms,
truck gardens, etc.
Descriptive folders sent on request
Bateman M’f’g Co. | The Bateman-Wilkinson «
351 Main Street Co., Ltd. = Ath :
Grenloch, N. J. Toronto, Canada * a
: sas z : te Same tool does the cultivating, rh ee
In business over 83 years. Makers of Riding and Walking Culti- ~*» = dei - es |
vators, Horse Hoes, Cultivators and Harrows, Sprayers, on furrowane, md sine Weedine oe |
ing, pulverizing, etc. oe t
|
Hay Rakes, Sulky Weeders, Potato Machinery, etc., etc.
January, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 153
cometiuity 1b
WATE? WReEE fo. FY)
W. Ame Burpee Coe
Seed Growers, Philadelphia. Seed Growers Fiiladelphia.
| Burpee Annual is considered the Leading American Seed Catalog
| Burpee’s Annual is a complete guide for the Flower or CROPS. Then GREENS and SALADS—Nature’s tonic.
Vegetable Garden. For your convenience all Vegetables And last but most delicious of all are the VEGETABLE
| are grouped under four classes with an entire chapter FRUITS! Burpee’s Annual is considered the leading Am-
: to each. First comes EDIBLE SEEDS—the Vegetable erican Seed Catalogue. It will be mailed to you free upon
Beefsteak. Then a chapter on the food value of ROOT request. Write for your copy today. A post card will do.
W. ATLEE BURPEE CO.. Seed Growers. Philadelphia
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
1
54 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JANUARY, 1919
Extraordinary
Service in
SEEDS
OVER: in France, the famous House of
Vilmorin grows choicest strains of seeds.
An example of their thorough methods is shown
above. Here, pedigreed mother plants of Beets
are nursed in individual “tents.” Every precau- at
tion is taken to have the plants perfect, the seeds ie
pure. For these seeds are‘destined to produce the seeds \ .\
A
%
for our customers.
Similar processes of careful seed production go on with our seed
‘growers the world over, because we insist upon the best. For
forty years we have. been “sticklers” for quality. That
quality, combined with
Beckert’s Victory Garden Service
should make your 1919 food garden a thorough success. _ And don’t for-
get—while victory is ours, we still have to wage war on grim Hunger who
stalks the world undefeated. We will gladly. help you do your part to
defeat him, by personal recommendations as to what to grow for biggest
returns of the crops you value most.
Note These Special Offers:
Here are 3 food garden collections designed to help Garden Magazine
readers to the best crops of the choicest vegetables that the garden can bear:
Beckert’s ‘‘Beginner’s Garden’’ Food Garden Collection
6 Large Packets, 25c postpaid
Beet, Crosby’s Egyptian; Carrot, Chantenay; Lettuce, Black Seeded Simpson; Onion»
White Bunch; Radish, Crimson Globe; Turnip, White Milan.
Special ‘‘Victory Garden Root Crop’’ Collection
6 Splendid Varieties for 25c postpaid
Beet, Crosby’s Egyptian; Celeriac, Turnip Rooted Celery; Carrot, Danvers Half Long;
Kohlrabi, White Vienna; Parsnip, Hollow Crown; Turnip, White Milan.
Beckert’s ‘‘Victory Home Garden’’ Collection of Twelve Fine
Vegetables for 50c postpaid
3ush Beans, Sure Crop Wax; Beet, Crosby’s Egyptian; Spinach Beet, Silver Ribbed;
Carrot, Danvers Half Long; C ucumber, Early Fortune; Lettuce, Black Seeded Simpson; Onion;
White Bunch; Parsnip, Hollow Crown; Radish, Icicle; Radish, Chartier Improved; Tomato,
Bonny Best; Turnip, White Milan.
Beckert’s Victory Garden Catalogue
(As Written by Adolph Kruhm)
Will appeal to every reader who desires original information on the subject of Home
Vegetable and Flower Gardening. Mr. Kruhm is also ready to render special service
referred to above and each individual reader of Garden Magazine may secure his personal
advice on any garden topics through us. Write for your copy of our
catalogue and lest you forget, order a collection or two offered above.
Beckert’s Seed Store (Founded 1878)
101-103 Federal Street, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE
| GARDEN
MAGAZINE
JANUARY, 19/9
ase hh, “
Bae ?
NI CONTENTS 4
Cover DESIGN—ZINNIAS Carl Gebfert
PAGE
AmoNG OuR GARDEN NEIGHBORS - - - - - - 159
THREE ILLUSTRATIONS
Let Us Have ‘‘Peace Trees’”—Restricting Importation
of Nursery Stock—Plan with a View to Convenience
—The Open Column.
PLANNING FOR YouR HotspEp - - JT. Sheward 162
Diagram by the author
DEMOBUIZING THE GARDEN - W.C. McCollom 163
Photographs by the author
CONSERVING Brauty IN THE VICTORY GARDEN
Elizabeth L. Strang 164
Plan by the author and photographs by F. B. Johnston
and H. H. Pepper
Tur ENTRANCE TO THE SMALL PLacE Ruth Dean 166
Plans by the author
SHRUBS AND FLOWERS FOR THE ENTRANCE GARDEN :
Stephen Hamblin 167
Photographs by H. Troth, A. G. Eldredge, N. R. Graves
and others
A Lirtie ARTISTRY IN A Litre GARDEN
Luke J. Doogue 169
Sketch by the author
THROUGH THE GARDEN GATE
Sketch by Frank Spradling
THE GarRDEN Or My Dreams - - - - E. Love 171
Diagram and photograph by the author
BUILDING THE GARDEN PLAN ON A UNIT BASIS
F. F. Rockwell 172
Louise B. Wilder 170
Photograph by the author
LicHt ON THE SEED CATALOGUES - - A. Kruhm 174
Photographs by the author
Tuer GARDEN IN THE SouTH - - J. M. Palterson 175
UNCLE SAm’s Boom TO GARDENING
Frances Duncan 176
Ture Monto’. REMINDER - - - - - - - - 178
WINTER PROTECTION FOR Roses - Agnes Frales 180
PLANTING OUT LILIES-OF-THE-V ALLEY
i. I. Farrington 180
Facrs apout Iris Borer - - Grace Sturtevant 18
ROUND ABOUT THE Home Pror - - - - - - 183
BEES FOR THE GARDENER - - - - - - - - 184
Dors Ir Pay? - - - - - - - A.A.Knock 186
SHOULD SwEET Corn BE SucKERED? A. Rutledge 186
LARKSPURS AND SHADE - - - - G. H. Smith 186
LEONARD BARRON, Editor
VOLUME XXVIII, No. 6.
Published Monthly, a5c. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year.
For Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
COPYRIGHT, 1918, BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Cuicaco: Peoples Gas Bldg. Boston: Tremont Bldg.
Los AncELES: Van Nuys Bldg. New York: 120 W. 32nd St.
F, N. DOUBLEDAY, President S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
HERBERT S. HOUSTON, RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
Vice-President Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879 =a
JANUARY, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 155
When the Barker Comes,
Weeds Go!
I° YOUR garden’s fertility going to
weeds? Cultivation is more necessary
than ever before. With help scarce, and
growing scarcer, young America is finding
recognition as a wonderful working force.
Your boy and girl will do a man’s work
any day, with a Barker—the remarkable
new tool that
Weeds, Mulches,
Cultivates
It’s a terrible engine of destruction to
weeds. Besides loosening the soil it cuts
off weeds, pulverizes the soil, chops up
the weeds which thus decay quickly, add-
ing humus to the soil. The finely pulver-
ized soil prevents the escape of moisture,
thus acting as drouth insurance. Truly,
if you want to confine yourself to “just
one” cultivator, let <“The Barker” be the
one. Made strongly enough to give life-
time service.
MODEL 8!4D, AS SHOWN,
WITH 84" BLADES, $8.25
The Barker is made in five sizes, for use between
rows of different width. All are guaranteed to do
the work any combination weeder can do, and more
work than most cultivators will do. Write to-day
for Freely Illustrated Catalogue. It is free—a ‘post-
card will do!
BARKER MFG. CO., Dept. 2
DAVID CITY, NEBR.
Here are the Reasons
for the Popularity of the
[_ JBERTY Gatco’
Aalemcielale and Weeder
Teeth that are as sharp as knives and so shaped that they naturally sink
into the soil without any pressure; thumb-screws that are easily manipulated
by anybody regulate the width of the arms so that they cover from four
to ten inches thoroughly, giving weeds no quarters; by removing the center
tooth, held also by a thumb-screw, both sides of rows may be cultivated at
9 » once, and cultivated they are when the “‘Liberty” gives them the once over,
= io doing the job up proud. :
= \\ Your dealer handles the “Liberty” or should. If he r
any aN A yy cannot supply, we will. Cultivator comes with 5-ft.
‘ \
hy Ts :
\ polished round handle or with adjustable wheel-
GAPR DE N B QO QO K frame as shown above. Prices on application.
a TY ° ’
The Gilson Weeder’s{
i i i
IS MORE THAN A MERE CATALOGUE i Remarkable Record
N
} It is really an encyclopedia of all things pertaining to vege-
tables, flowers, plants and garden tools. Four splendid color Seedea Hie: VaR Ine Sa DEEL Nob
plates reproducing some of Dreer’s specialties in vegetables and after the arrival, we sent six more to the same locality. Then one of its
flowers and 224 superbly illustrated pages of practically all the prominent citizens applied to become our agent. One New York seedsman
vegetables and flowers worth growing. sold a score within a week. Do you think
the “Gilson” would score such records if its
EVERY GROWER OF VEGETABLES and merits were not great?
EVERY LOVER OF FLOWERS You won’t get the fun out of your garden
, ; : 3 without a Gilson, thet you will with one. It
will find Dreer’s Garden Book brim full of valuable informa- comes in three sizes, at moderate prices, from
tion—just the things they must know in order to make their
garden a sure success.
$1.00 up. Write for booklets and
Famous experts in vegetable and flower growing have connie paca Learn all about the
ltural directi d have told how to plant, when to plant and what to mi ; 5
BERL, Follow their zigie Pe your 1919 garden will be the envy of your A Comple te Line of Gil SON Too l ic
neighbor. \ Besides the Liberty Cultivator, and Gilson Weeder,
A copy of Dreer’s Garden Book will \ we make wheel-cultivators, dandelion. diggers,
be mailed free to anyone mentioning scratch weeders, ete., etc. Gardening becomes
this publication. a joy with the help of the modern line of Gilson
tools. Gilson-ize your garden work and be a
HENRY A. DREER more successful gardener with less effort.
714-716 Chestnut Street
» Write us TO-DAY.
PHILADELPHIA, PA. :
J. EK. GilsonCo.
Port Washington
Wisconsin
SS SSS
AOS ‘
RAN ae
\ AS
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Early last spring we sent a “Gilson,” the safe
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
156 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE JANUARY, 1919
FIRST TIME EVER OFFERED
IN AMERICA
Europe until now has alone enjoyed a
great nut delicacy—large, tasty Filberts.
The American wild Filbert has lacked
size, taste and food value.
Seven years ago, however, we imported
plants that bore abundantly,as far North
as Riga, Russia, and obtained a Euro-
pean nut expert to begin experiments
here. Success has crowned his efforts
and we now offer you
Lovely Blooms From These
Special Gladiolus Offers
Just a little sum put into either of these collec-
tions will make your summer garden lovely with
\ beautiful blooms, that are ever-changing in
_~ their attractiveness.
Special Offer No. 1
42 Bulbs for $1, postpaid
6 America, lavender-pink 6 Halley, salmon-pink
‘aron Hulot, violet-blue Independence, orang e- 5
éBrrcivcyiy are” et san fg | MMproved European Filbert
oa Be (Hazel) Nut Trees
Special Offer No. 2
Famous nut experts C. A. Reed, of the U. S. Dept. of Agricul-
20 Bulbs for $1, postpaid
ture and Dr. R. T; Morris have pronounced our plants wonder-
2 Mrs. F. Pendleton 2 lant pink ; ful. On ue shore es Lake Ontario with temperature last winter
2 Panama, pate pi iagara, cream yellow e
2 Apalta mine 2 Glory of Holland, white of HCY ACCRICC below ZeTO's they thrive and bear abundantly.
2 Chicago, white 2 Willy Wigman, white
Beauty and Profit
Bushes make a very ornamental shrub with deep green and
leathery foliage in Summer and loaded with husks of delicious nuts, which ripen in Sep-
tember here, Plants bear second or third year after planting, and when 10 years old stand
5 to 7 feet high, and should yield 20 to 25 pounds of nuts each.
All plants offered grown on their own roots, are 2 to 4
feet high, and will thrive in any moderately rich, well
drained soil with very little cultivation. Be the first to
grow large Filberts—the European kind—on your grounds
for real pleasure or in orchard for good profit. Satisfaction
comes either way. Send for catalogue with full details.
2 Faust, crimson 2 Pink Progression
eres true to color, securely packed, and sent post-
paid.
I have a plan whereby youcan get twenty-
five bulbs for almost nothing. Ask me
My ‘‘Glad”’ Catalogue tries to convey to you
some of the surprises in store for those who plant
my gladioli. Cultural directions furnished will
help you to be successful with the bulbs. Send for the
catalogue; or better still, order the collection for imme-
diate or future delivery.
JELLE ROOS
Box M
Milton, Mass.
Established 1879
Vines, Berry Plants, etc. _
;
Hardy English Walnut Orchards
No longer an experiment in Zero Climates
Plant an English Walnut orchard this Spring. Make a beginning and add toit each
season. No bank failures, business depressions, nor trust investigations can interfere with this
source of pleasure and income, for its rock foundation is the development of a natural
resource. Start with rugged acclimated trees, grown under severe climatic conditions, with
temperature far below zero at times. Conditions
that breed iron-clad vigor and vitality; and that /j[
produce trees so hardy, they may be planted in :
cold climates with the same assurance of success-
ful fruiting as Peach trees.
We believe this is the only northern
locality, where commercial orchards of
English Walnuts may be seen, some of
them containing hundreds of trees which
have been bearing regularly
for more than twenty years.
For the lawn or driveway,
English Walnut is exquisite-
ly beautiful with its smooth
light gray bark, luxuriant dark
green foliage, lofty, symmetrical
growth. A homeful tree to plant
about the home. Rochester parks
and public streets contain many
beautiful bearing trees, apparently
as hardy as the Maples and
Elms. At least, thriving under
the same conditions, and produc-
ing annually delicious nuts as well
as shade. Truly a most_delightful
combination.
We have unlimited faith in
trees bred and grown under these
conditions, and are sure that those who plant
our hardy strains of English Walnuts will be
well pleased.
The picture shows a Fairport English
Walnut tree planted in 1907, began bearing
in 1911. Superior quality, extreme hardiness,
early bearer, safe to plant.
COLOUR
IN MY
GARDEN
By LOUISE BEEBE WILDER
Author of “My Garden”
{ In big and little gardens everywhere we are awaken-
ing to the possibilities of flower grouping with due
reverence to the value of colors.
§{ - The author has rare taste and a practical working
knowledge of plants, which put her in the foremost rank
of garden writers of this or any other country.
§ Mrs. Wilder says, “I like to go along as much as
possible with Nature, letting her give me a hint or a lift
wherever possible.” She has used this and her inspira-
tions together and suited them to our climatic require-
ments—while many of the harmonious results have been
beautifully painted and used to illustrate the book.
§ A choice gift-book for the most discriminating flower-lovers.
Net $10.00, De Luxe Edition
Our 1919 Catalogue and Planting Guide—Includes Nut Culture,
Fruits, Roses, Shrubs, Evergreens, etc. Mailed FREE on Request.
At your bookseller’s
Doubleday, Page c& Company
Garden City New York
Glen Bros., Inc., Glenwood Nursery
Established 1866. 1803 Main Street, Rochester, N. Y. :
000000000
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
L. W. HALL COMPANY Inc.
580 Cutler Bldg., | Rochester, N: Y;
Complete stock of Fruit and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, '
J] MNwHT—TTTE.T TTT: inntniittititii iii ixixititititiz::
JANUARY, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 157
: ~~
mee
Plant Evergreens
and change your garden from a desolate, winter-
stricken memory into a vividly living and beau-
tiful scene! There is no lovelier garden sight
than evergreens laden with glittering crystalsnow. +
_ We will send you FREE a helpful treatise on
evergreens and our catalogue, if you will write
for them. We have 800 acres under cultivation,
and our experience dates back to 1790!
All our plants are sturdy specimens, dug with a
good ball of earth and securely burlapped for
shipping. They will take root quickly, and you
will be delighted at the swift, verdant change in
your garden!
Send now for our helpful suggestions
on evergreens!
AMERICAN NURSERY CO., INC.
Flushing, L.I., N. Y.
Y must contain a complete
our ane : s
a ‘h Kipling— that is, if you
tOrTary plan to afford your children
_the heritage of the Anglo-Saxon family.
Published by
Doubleday, Page'& Co., Garden City, N.Y.
3)
ME
=< ccc
For $1.00
I willsend youa full packeteachof _
Six Wonderful
New Vegetables
Summer Asparagus
cropping from July until November.
Family Bean
producing pods 4 to 6 feet long.
Cabbage Santo Sai
combines lettuce and cabbage in one plant.
New Giant Cucumber
full grown fruit 18 in. long 2 in. thick.
Lettuce Little Gem
a lettuce guaranteed to head.
Tomato All Fruit
a single plant produces from 50 to 75 fruit.
Regular Catalogue Price $1.50
i
l
HIN
Full description of these and many others in the
best seed book ever published entitled ‘‘My
Garden Favorites’’; mailed free to all.
MAURICE FULD
Plantsman-Seedsman
7 West 45th Street New York
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Plant Carpenter’s Giant
Golden Sweet Corn
A Delicious, Big Golden Sweet
Carpenter’s Giant Golden Sweet Corn is actually twice as large as the
Golden Bantam, yet it is only about three days later in maturing. It
requires no more time, effort or fertilizer to raise this heavy-yielding
kind than to raise a small variety. 4
Many who have tried Carpeénter’s Golden Sweet declare that in quality
it even surpasses the celebrated Golden Bantam. Besides being of de-
licious quality, it doesn’t grow mealy like other golden sweets—remains
fit for the table much longer. You can’t beat it for home canning.
Put up a liberal supply and reduce your sugar consumption. Prices,
pkg. 15c.; 4% lb., 35c.; 1 lb. 55c.; 2 Ibs., $1—all postpard.
Our new 1919 Catalogue is nearly ready—free to all. It de- 1856-1919
scribes choice strains of reliable varieties—both Vegetables
and Flowers. We have an unusually desirable stock, con-
sidering the season, and we urge our friends to place their
orders early and avoid disappointment. Write us to-day.
J. J. H. Gregory & Son |
710 Elm Street Marblehead, Mass. to
FOR 63 YEARS
THE STANDARD
Nursery Stock of Proven Reliability
The successful growing experience of 43 years is back of every tree, plant
and shrub sold by the Woodlawn Nurseries.
_ Thesturdiness and moderate price of such Woodlawn grown plants bring an eye fill-
ing garden within the most moderate means. Luxuriant flowering bushes to line an un-
interesting pathway, evergreens and shrubs to soften the lines of the house or screen
a garage, hardy plants and vines that make your garden an annual joy.
We take particular pride in our fruit trees, vinesand berry bushes. ¢<
Send for our illustrated1919 Nursery List. It contains valuable ae
pienene and growing data together with a catalog of dependa-
le plants and trees.
WOODLAWN NURSERIES
888 Garson Avenue Rochester, New York | -
ee
(i
Gata
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
158 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE JANUARY, 1919
TRADE MARK REG&U.S.PAT.OFF.
“The Finest Apple In All the World”
TARK Delicious trees from your nurseries have been —Luther Burbank
growing cn my place for years and never failed to produce a crop. The ‘‘Wizard of Horticulture” said this about |
“As they grow older they bear more, larger, better fruit. the apple tree that Stark Bro’s developed for |
“Many apples have rather a spicy fragrance and flavor—but none has such a delicious combination as the world of fruit lovers and fruit growers.
Stark Delicious! Stark Delicious is a gem—ihe finest apple in all the world.”
STARK DELICIOUS
STARK BRO’S Moines
Fruit Discovery
Every home—every market accords it rows. Make your spare land grow
first place. ‘The Money Makerofthe double crops—yield double profit also.
Or chard.” $3.50 to $5.00 per bushel Wonderfully hardy, thrifty, quick growers
are paid every day for this apple. and young, heavy and tapi bees every-
Thousands of people!plant Stark where egarding their hardiness, for
as instance, Harold Simmons, Minnesota horti-
Delicious and other Stark Apple. culturist, declares: “This season in Minne-
Peach, Pear, Plum, Cherry and Berry sota showed the superior quality of Stark
Trees, Bushes and Vines, for both Dencousy Saale aad your trees) big earn —[—_— =
i sigs ability, as last? winter proved its hardiness ark Delicious Tree—only fouryears
home and market fruit—and grow It stood 50 degrees below zero without injury old. The pride of the home lot and
corn and vegetable crops between tree = and bore a good crop. commercial orchard everywhere.
-starxeromer’” Stark Trees Make $60 Land Worth $600
RECOMMENDS : :
THEM, TOO! Judge Adam Thompson of De Kalb Co., Mo., reports:—‘‘I have always received top prices for all
7 i: my apples because my Stark Delicious trees (from your nurseries) sold the crop. Always refused to sell
my Stark Delicious apples by themselves. Let them go only when crop of whoie orchard was taken.
When I planted this orchard, had I planted three-fourths of it Stark Delicious it would be worth # STARK
Ce a a ee ee
He started
eating them at three times as much as it is. This land was ordinary De Kalb County land worth probably $60 an: g BRO’S
eight months ace. Yet I have refused $600 per acre for my Stark Orchard. Why should I sell at that Y Reure 4 NURSERIES
old You can see since it nels me 6 per cent on $1200 per acre valuation every year?”’. a Box 121
that they agreed There’s fruit profit facts for you! Want more? / Louisiana, Mo.
Send me your rorg Plant-
with him. Better Write For Free 1919 Planting Guide y Cee
grow your own If youalso want our
: This helpful book—Stark Bro’s 1919 Planting Guide has # Free book, ‘‘Secrets
fruit for YOUR Send the Coupon packed Within ats SERS Sanaeey and SHprerenowleaee @ of Ornamental Planting,”
4 and information about Free
/
kiddies, too of orcharding success—inside pointers on how to select and plant 1 or 1000 trees that will i
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on you Getacopy! Just fill out coupon or send your name and address on postcard to us NOW.
think?
Address Box 121
/ Post Office
f
The Only Stark Nursery in Evite
Always at LOUISIANA, MO. Since 1816 /. -
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, loo
The Garden Magazine
ss VoLumE XXVIII
O
Let Us Have “‘ Peace Trees ”’
E HAVE lived through the world’s
greatest war. We have been privi-
leged to see it end; we stand upon
the threshold of a new peace. And
because the war was the greatest, and the most
terrible in all history, the peace that is to succeed
it must necessarily become the greatest, most
glorious peace time that ever came upon earth.
Wherefore, rightly enough, we yearn to celebrate
it, to pay tribute to it, to mark it upon our mem-
ories and into the course of our daily lives in a
manner fitting, worthy, and adequate. But how?
What note would we have such a tribute
strike? What thought, what sentiment should
it convey?
The dominating idea should comprise the an-
tithesis of all the horrors and trials and penalties
of war. It should strike the note of reconstruc-
tion, of upbuilding, rather than of destruction;
of beauty rather than of sordid ugliness; of peace-
ful calm rather than of turmoil; of service and
helpfulness. All these without the element of
tragic sacrifice. It should, in brief, be the sym-
bol, not of death, but of life—of vigorous, ever-
lasting growth.
Why not, then, the “peace tree,” or rather
millions of peace trees—one for every individual
or family that has had its heart in the winning
of the war and that now has its heart no less
‘sincerely in the prosecution of peace? Let us
plant trees, no matter what kind, nor need
we be over precise as to where—the exact place
doesn’t matter a rap—trees that will stand and
grow and become constantly more beautiful as
a tribute to the coming of peace, as a symbol
of the upward growth of the world and of hu-
manity to bring about which we are prepared
to lend our utmost aid.
Our armies now in the invaded, desolated sec-
tions of Belgium and France, and our Y. M.C. A.,
and Red Cross, and other workers are toiling
to rebuild those countries, to reéstablish their
industries and their agriculture, to beautify
again their homes and countrysides, that the
scars of battle may be hidden and forgotten.
Our country has been spared that destruction
and desolation, but always it can be made more
beautiful. Why not let this era of reconstruction
in Europe be paralleled by a campaign of home
beautification over here? It will mean some-
thing, a good deal, in fact, to the men as they
return with vivid recollections of all they have
seen and heard waiting to be blotted out by
sights and sounds of peace and beauty. The
men who have seen the gardens of England and
France will be glad to see a new birth of garden
beauty in their home land.
JANUARY,1919
We plan to decorate our cities and towns
with flags and banners and plaster arches costing
thousands of dollars. And after a while the
flags will be taken down, the banners, if spared
by wind and weather will be removed, and the
plaster sculpture will be broken up and carted
away. Why not, instead of some of this, or,
if you like, in addition to it, bedeck our sur-
roundings in foliage and flowers, and plant trees
and shrubs, vines and hardy plants? Year after
year they will remain beautiful, imposing, useful.
Year after year they will continue to grow, sym-
bolizing the spread of peace and the democratic
justice upon which it is founded. Year after
year they will refresh our memories—not of the
horrors through which the world has passed, but
of the reward that has come to it, of the new,
priceless amalgam that has come forth out of
the flames of trial and adversity.
The planting of “memorial trees,” as sug-
gested by the American Forestry Association,
and other agencies for soldiers and sailors whose
lives have been taken as hostages of peace does
not go far enough. Rather should every family
who had a relative or close friend in any way
connected with the war’s activities, plant its
own peace tree, getting the returned son or
brother or father or friend to help at the planting
ceremony, if possible. The tree would bear no
metal tag or tablet—its meaning would be en-
graven deeper upon the hearts and souls of those
who plant it and care for it and watch it wax
strong and ever more beautiful. If an Elm,
Oak, Hickory, or other ornamental, its shade can
render welcome service for generations to come.
If an apple or pear, or other fruit, it will sustain
and refresh season after season. Even if merely
a bush—a “‘service shrub” as it were—it will
gladden the eye and brighten the days of all
beholders while always it stands for the peace
for which men fought and bled and died.
Nor is this plan, primarily one of aesthetics
and sentiment devoid of inevitable material
results. Assume that we have four million men
in our armed forces, and suppose that the families
of half of them are so located that they have a
back yard or a vacant lot if not a real lawn or
an open field in which to plant their peace tree.
That would mean ‘two million or more trees
added to the resources, the fundamental wealth
and beauty of the nation.
Again there is the effect on our bird population,
as emphasized by Mr. T. Gilbert Pearson of the
American Association of Audubon Societies,
in connection with the memorial tree idea. Far
less of our birds, he says, go south in winter than
is commonly supposed, and to those that remain
north; trees are a matter of life and death. Re-
duce their numbers and our feathered friends
159
NumMBeR G6 4 De:
and allies are deprived of shelter and sanctuary;
increase them, and the birds thrive and multiply
and serve us well in our eternal warfare against
the insect pests of flower, fruit, and food plants.
Trees along our highways will add to their at-
tractiveness and kindle a new community pride
in those who live amongst and beneath them.
Trees on the hillsides will save our soil from
destructive erosion, our low lands from disastrous
floods, our wells and springs from serious short-
ages in times of need.
Treesin thegardenand about the home will en-
rich the soul and lend new interest and color to life.
“Let there be peace” indeed. And let us
commemorate its advent by planting more of
God’s own trees in God’s own country, and ours.
Plant “peace trees” this spring.
Restricting Importation of Nursery
Stock
[- HAS been at last officially announced by the
Department of Agriculture that a quarantine
order “‘governing the importation of nursery
stock and other plants and seeds into the United
States as a protection against the introduction
of insects and pests and plant diseases” has been
issued; and that on and after June first of this
year, the much debated regulation prohibiting
the importation of plants as articles of trade goes
into effect. ;
“Under the terms of this quarantine and regu-
lation, fruits, vegetables, cereals, and other
plant products imported for medicinal, food or
manufacturing purposes, and field, vegetable,
and flower seeds, may be imported without per-
mit or other restrictions. Other classes of plants
for propagation permitted entry, including certain
bulbs, rose stocks, cuttings and scions, and seeds
of fruit, forest and other ornamental and shade
trees, and of hardy perennial ornamental shrubs,
may be imported only in accordance with the
permit and other requirements of the regulations.”
The effect of this order on the florist and nur-
sery trade and the reaction upon our gardens
will be farreaching. No more will we see Azaleas,
Bay trees, and Palms, and other products of the
nurseries of Belgium for example. It is idle now
to point out that the most devastating insect pest,
the gypsy moth, for instance, was not introduced
as an accidental rider on plants and nursery stock;
but was the deliberate introduction of a scientific
investigator for an entirely different purpose;
and that something like that could be said of a
multitude of other diseases and pests.
That our gardens must suffer more or less by
the restricted introduction of novelties is in-
evitable. The bright ray that the future holds
160
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JANUARY, 1919
out is the forced turning to domestic plant ma-
terial. It is hardly possible to say too much in
praise of some of the splendid native plants of
North America that are not common articles
of nursery trade, either because the foreign
material (which was not always ideally adapted
to our climate) could be obtained so cheaply,
or because the nurseryman lacked imagination
enough to introduce them in quantity.
Although the importation of certain florist
and nursery novelties and certain other stock is
permitted because the entry of these classes of
plants for purposes of propagation is represented
by experts to Ke essential to the floriculture and
horticulture of this country under existing condi-
tions the barrier is partly up, and importations
will only be made through the Department of
Agriculture for those who have special facilities
for that kind of business. Of course, in the long
runwemayall bebetteroff. Perhaps. Whoknows?
Plan With a View to Convenience
HERE is a 1918 incident that has taught an
experienced amateur gardener an important
lesson. It should be valuable to others who will
be guided thereby:
In his patriotic desire to grow enough vegeta-
bles to supply his family for a year, and to have
a surplus for the neighbors, Mr. Blank rented a
couple of lots adjacent to his home and planted
nearly half to late potatoes, other vegetables
occupying the balance. In conversation with
the editor late in November he said: “I’m per-
manently cured of growing this crop unless I can
do so on cheaper land and on a large enough scale
to utilize horse or tractor drawn machinery.
My objections are that late potatoes occupy the
land during the whole growing season so there can
be no succession crop; they require the whole
area so a companion crop 1s out of the question;
they demand far too much hand labor for plant-
ing, cultivating, spraying and harvesting; the
cash or equivalent returns: are too small to pay
for this labor at ordinary laborers’ wages; they
therefore mean a greater loss if the work is
charged for, as it should be, at the rate my time
is worth. But while these points, especially the
one last mentioned, are important, the next one
is, to me, most important of all! the slow hand
work of harvesting must be done at a season of
the year when time is most valuable to me—to
do it I must either hire a man or lose money.
Even if my plot had yielded maximum returns
(which it didn’t) it wou'd not have paid. In fact,
I would have been money in pocket if I had either
not planted potatoes at all, or had not dug the
crop but had bought my winter supply at the
local store at late November prices—2.25 a
bushel! So, as I have said, I am cured of wanting
to grow potatoes by hand methods! Well
chosen crops of other kinds not only gave me a
quicker turn over but I used most of them either
as companion crops; so with far less effort I se-
cured maximum returns from the balance of the
area—a fact which will render me immune to late
potatoes as a crop for the rest of my born days!”
Herein lies the important lesson: Plan to
suit your convenience. Make your gardening
subsidiary to your work,—your “‘recreation.”
If you are likely to be busy or to go on a fishing
or hunting trip during a certain period of the
season plan now to arrange your plantings so no
crops will need cultivation, spraying, or harvest-
ing during that time. By so doing you will not
have the garden “on your mind” when you should
devote all your time and energy to your regular
business or to the enjoyment of an outing—some-
thing for the time being more important. Thus
you may keep yourself from being included
among those people who drop gardening because
it interferes with their work or their other pleas-
ures. Don’t attempt more than you can carry
through, and so automatically gravitate into the
ranks of the apparently slipshod gardener.
Readers Interchané SeEmeien |
A New Garden Borer Pest.—What threatens
to be one of the worst foreign pests ever intro-
duced into this country is the European Corn
Stalk Borer, which has spread through many
Massachusetts towns in the last two years.
It probably reached this country in bales of
hemp imported by a cordage concern near Boston
and had increased by thousands before it was
discovered and its identity determined. Now
the Federal Government has established a field
station at Arlington. A quarantine has been
placed on all of the towns where borers have been
located. Once established, however, this borer
is not easily gotten rid of for it lives over the
winter in the adult stage and multiplies with
exceeding rapidity. The problem would be
easier to solve if the pest confined itself to corn
stalks and stubble. Investigators are finding,
though, that it winters in the stems of many
different weeds. Even celery and Dahlia stalks
Done by the stalk borer which also is becoming a pest of
many: plants in the flower garden
have been used for its winter home. Early in
the fall the borers eat a roomy apartment well
up in the stalks of whatever plants they choose
to inhabit. Cutting the corn stalks and mowing
the weeds at that time is the most effective way
of getting rid of the pests, if the weeds and stalks
are carefully destroyed. Later in the season
the borers burrow downward until they get below
the ground in many cases and getting rid of
them becomes very difficult. In the spring
the borers emerge as moths and commence to
lay eggs. The caterpillars hatched from these
eggs will feed upon the early corn. The damage
done by this first generation is small compared
with the depredations of a second generation
which appears in August. These late hatched
borers feed on the late corn (both in the stalks
and in the ears) and the greatest amount of
damage is done by working on the tassels. The
stalks are weakened and the tassels fall over
before the pollen is ripe. That means that the
corn is not fertilized and that a meager crop is
produced. Oftentimes the ears which do grow
are rendered unsalable because of the tunnels
bored into them. It has been estimated that
every May moth lays seven hundred eggs, on the
average and two or three hundred more in the
fall. Nearly all the eggs are likely to hatch.
Some of the moths kept in cages at the Arlington
station have laid more than a thousand eggs.
To put the facts concretely, a single caterpillar
present in an old corn stalk early in the spring
can be expected to have a progeny of 315,000
borers at the end of the season. The that fact
the Corn Stalk Borer also attacks other plants in
the flower garden is important.—E. J. Farrington.
—Specimens of an unknown borer in Dahlias
and other plants reached us last season and the
assumption is that it was this pest. The obvious
precaution is to burn all refuse where the borer’s
work has been suspected.—£Ed.
In the Interest of Decoration—A prettily
garnished dish upon the table always adds to
the interest of the meal and when bits of toast
were taboo and we had to think twice before we
cut a lemon, we have been more than ever before
dependent upon growing things from the garden
to use for this purpose. Last summer, thinking
it would be interesting to have a variety, I de-
voted a small patch of earth near the kitchen
door to the growing of green garnishes and I
think the experiment well worth repeating. It
was almost no trouble and both family and visitor
enjoyed its decorative results. Besides Moss-
curled and Fern-leaved parsley, I grew chervil,
which is almost as pretty as parsley and adds a
fine racy tang to salads and other dishes; chives,
mustard, garden cress, dill, whose seeds may later
be used in pickles and in green apple pies; beets,
sown thickly and the pretty red leaves used while
small; mint for the embellishment of cold tea
and rounds of water melon; curled endive, lettuce,
and celery. The last three were not treated in
the usual manner as they were required only to
produce leaves of a size to be decorative. They
were simply sown in drills and not thinned out.
There was but one row of each kind but they
gave a wide variety to choose from and next year
I shall add Nasturtiums and horse radish to
the collection. Chervil and lettuce were sown
several times during the season to keep them in
evidence and the mustard should have been as
it quickly becomes too coarse for use. Many
of these plants were good to use as seasonings
as well as garnishes and it was ““commodious”
as the old books say, to have them all together
and so close at hand. A light covering of leaves
at the approach of cold weather keeps the bed —
long in good condition.—Louwise B. Wilder.
Pink Snapdragons from Cuttings—I am a
devoted reader of the Garpen Macazine, and
in return for the many helps I have received from
it, would like to tell others how I managed to
have a quantity of a beautiful pink variety of
Snapdragon for very little cost. From a packet
of pink seed I had many shades of pink flowers.
I selected two plants of the same shade (a beau-
tiful. rose pink), and in the fall put them in pots
cutting the entire top down to within three or
four inches of the root. I kept them with my
Geraniums, etc., in a light cool cellar. In Feb-
ruary the plants began growing. As soon as a
young shoot was long enough to make a cutting
I pinched it off, and planted it in the side of the
pot where it quickly rooted. When I pinched
off a shoot two grew in its place to be later pinched
off and rooted. When.my garden was ready
for them in the spring I had about five dozen
well rooted cuttings ready to transplant. They
bloomed much earlier than seedlings of the same
size and they were all exactly alike in color mak-
ing a beautiful show.—V/. LE. Litile, Til.
Marl Offers Lime Supply.—Gardeners who
are situated near natural deposits of marl have
in it a good source of lime; there is no question
about the value of marl where limestone is needed.
Marl is found usually in muck swamps.
Dry marl may contain as much lime as the best
grades of limestone. Deposits vary considerably
in purity, but where they are more than two or
‘three feet thick they usually contain more than
80 per cent. of lime carbonate, equivalent to
45 per cent. of actual lime. To use marl directly
from the pit, it must be taken out when the swamp
water islow. Usually the fall is the best time.
The wet marl may also be spread in as small
lumps as possible. When these have dried out,
they may be crushed and distributed.
JANUARY, 1919
The American Rose Society proposes that
its members unite to “make the first year of
peace a year of Roses.” ‘Proof that the Rose
has tremendously helped in fighting this war to
a righteous finish is constantly coming in,” says
Prof. E. A. White, Secretary. “The sight and
the smell of a Rose which reminded him of home
has put fresh ‘ginger’ into many a wearied and
worn French, English, or American soldier. It
is certain that France and Belgium will blossom
in joy in 1919. Ought we in America be any
less attentive to aiding nature torejoice? * * *
“Let us make 1919—the first year of peace—
the greatest Rose year in the history of the con-
tinent. Let us grow Roses, give Roses, and live
Roses, the season through. The Red Cross,
the Y. M. C. A., and all the other great ameliorat-
ing agencies will need help. Let us show Roses
to assist in getting that help.”
Early Winter Flowers.—I was much interested
during the last part of November in late-blooming
flowers. My experience gives the Calendula the
lead, though Thanksgiving week saw also flowers
in good numbers of Verbena, perennial Gaillardia
and certain Marigolds. Sweet Alyssum never
stops blooming, though the variety I have is not
very conspicuous. I was much pleased to find
in a retired part of the garden late in November
a nice bed of Virginian Stock, all plants about
as bright as they “would have been in summer.
This modest plant is not raised much, but it
has its uses, if only to come out strong late in the
season. | would be glad to get some further
information as to the raising of such flowers that
are indifferent to light frosts, as they are a real
comfort when most of the garden is dormant.
‘I suppose that such plants ought to be kept
from blossoming early as much’ as possible or
maybe sowed in midsummer. The Calendulas
that flowered so late were almost as large as a
silver dollar and they came out so fast “that a
single plant furnished an abundance of color
for the table. I saw on November rgth a beau-
tiful bouquet, as fresh as it would have been in
August, made of a few green leaves, four or five
white Bachelor-buttons, two Verbenas and a
head of Mignonette, displayed on an office girl’s
desk. Why do they send us frosts out of time
to spoil the gardens long before the arrival of
winter? We can get the better of the freeze-ups
somewhat if we make the proper effort. What
say others on the subject ae W. Chamberlin,
New York.
My Shirley Poppies were the admiration of
the neighborhood. It was only a plot 6 ft. x 4 ft.
but morning after morning I picked more than a
hundred blossoms. I appreciated them the more
coming after years of failures for when they
would be ready for blossoming the hot, dry,
Iowa winds would blast the buds. Here is
my secret of success: One late February day
the sun had melted the snow in spots so I was
able to loosen the:earth to a depth of a few inches.
I sprinkled freely with fertilizer, then sowed my
seeds, pressing the ground firmly, and covering
with cloth held down by boards. The snow
and freezing weather followed but the last of
April when I removed the cover there was a soft
film of green over the ground. The late frosts
did not hurt them, and how rapidly they grew!
They blossomed early and endured the later dry
spell.—Mrs. E. J. Brownson, Iowa.
Petunias as Fillers.—I doubt if one can find
an annual other than the Petunia that
makes such excellent “filling in’ material. It will
grow in sun and in shade, in light soil and in heavy,
soil, in rich soil and in poor soil, not equally well
perhaps, but always well enough to justify its
use as an expedient with which to patch up some
ugly spot in the garden. In one place the
Petunia brought forth its joyous bloom along a
stretch in the garden that the sudden wilting of
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Phlox threatened to leave bare for that season—
the plants receive about an equal portion of sun
and shade. In another place the Petunia bright-
ens a clay ridge till that ridge can be brought
into proper condition—full sun and _ partial
drought was its portion. Along a fence where
Roses newly planted are taking a hold a double
row of Petunia bloomed prettily throughout the
garden season and even beyond the first light
frost.—C. L. Meller, No. Dakota.
A Two-Purpose Hoe.—Cutting an ordinary
garden hoe diagonally across from one corner to
within a few inches of the top at the other side
makes a serviceable two-purpose tool. Hoeing
is as easy as with any other tool while the acute
angled corner gives one the advantage over a com-
mon hoe in working close to small plants without
danger of injury tothem. This corner also makes
the hoe as good a tool as any in preparing the
trenches for seed sowing. The tool is really a
hoe and a small cultivator combined. The cut-
ting can be done either with a hack saw or a cold
Hoes adapted with right and left handed pitch to suit the
worker
chisel. The edge can then be smoothed down
and sharpened with a file. Actual experience
with this hoe among a number of workers brings
out the fact that one works with the right corner
of the hoe while another always uses the left
corner. This matter of working naturally with
the right or left side of a hoe must be taken into
account when cutting such a hoe for your own use.
Therefore, to make the hoe of real value to your-
self, find out first what corner of the hoe you
naturally work with and then cut the hoe diag-
onally down to that corner.—C. L. Meller.
American Committee for Devastated France.—
In the GarpEN Macazine for November refer-
ence was made to what is being done by one
organization~-in reconstruction work in_ the
Photo < Beri B. Lachman
Worker of the Committee for Devastated France in a
courtyard at Chateau-Thierry after the Germans left
French orchards, and one of the illustrations
showing the return to a flower garden at Chateau-
Thierry was supplied by another organization,
the American Committee for Devastated France,
the national headquarters of which are at 16
161
East 39th Street, New York. For a little over
eighteen months it has been concentrating its
efforts upon reéstablishing people’s occupations
in northern France. Apart from being instru-
mental in clearing five thousand acres of barbed
wire, filling shell holes and trenches, plowing
and seeding barley and rye in quantity to feed
four thousand people for one year, this institution
planted seven thousand fruit trees. This effort
is really greater than the figure would seem to
indicate; for the cost of operation which in normal
times is about eight dollars an acre, in these re-
cent months amounted to three hundred dollars.
The value of the reconstruction work must be
measured, not entirely in the future possible
crops, but also in the present employment given
to the civilians and returned soldiers in clearing
up the land. A year ago February millions of
vegetables were set out by children in various
communes. When the March offensive began
the reconstructed region had to be abandoned
with such protection as a hurried and forced re-
treat could permit. But the work had been
well done; and when the tide rolled the other
way the American Committee found its work
well in hand, and about ninety per cent. has
been saved. The work of tree planting done
by this committee is confined to the region of
the Aisne.
Do Melons and Cucumbers
October GarpEN Macaztne there is a very fine
article entitled, ““How about next year’s seed?”
which I have read very carefully and hope to
reap some benefit from doing so. I must differ,
however, on one point from Mr. Rockwell. I
refer to the last paragraph of the article wherein
he says “cucumbers, melons, and squash will
not mix in spite of the popular assumption that
they will, but the different varieties of each
mix readily.” Now I had occasion this past
summer to inspect an acre of ground that was
planted to what was supposed to be Perfection
cucumber but through some mistake or accident
the seed had become mixed with musk melon
and J think off the whole acre the grower only
got two fruit (melons) fit to use. The vines
were quite distinct; but as for the fruit! some
looked like very nice. melons but had a very
decided cucumber -taste, others vice versa. I
would like some one to explain this as whenever
the subject of seed saving is mentioned | am all
attention—Hugh Mulloy, Ontario.
Dwarfing a Grapevine.—A curious but very
practical method of dwarfing a grapevine has
lately been discovered by merest chance. It is
possible that this method may become popular
with growers of grapes who like to keep the vines
within narrow limits. Among a dozen grape-
vine cuttings that were stuck out for purposes of
propagation, by mischance, one was stuck with
the bud-end in the ground. But this vine, as
well as the others, grew. Its formation, however,
was peculiar. Its branches, instead of being
sent upward at an angle of 45 degrees, were sent
downward at the same angle. The stem seemed
to grow stout by a suppression of growth. In
due time this vine was transplanted to its perman-
ent site, which was against a building. Here it
continued its stocky, down-branching growth.
Proper pruning and a little training shaped the
vine readily; and to-day it 1s a very heavy bearer.
Its curious shape, while confining its spreading
propensities, seems to improve rather than to
hinder its powers of bearing — tC 2 yr. 75
8 Clematis paniculata, 6 vines yee 2 yr. 1.50
9 Tecoma radicans (Campsis), 2 vines;
iixtioipet=ckeepenas uk. Win) us 2 yr. .50
10 Berberis, 65 plants 24’ apart, barberry for
edecmarmeh nee Mrs 2S ete 6 or 2/-3 13.00
11 Blackberries (or gooseberries) 8 plants,
RAD ALi canes Mey ite) oD. . eh oa 1.20
12 Raspberries, black or red, 10 plants, 2’>
3' apart. 6 A ee, Se eee, Sone 1.50
13 Standard currants red fruited, 7 plants. Behe 7.00
14 Syringa vulgaris hybrids, lilac, 9 plants,
2'-3'; Madame Lemoine, double white,
3’ high; Marie LeGraye, single white. awe 2.25
15 Exochorda grandiflora, 2 plants, 3’ apart.
Pearl-bush TN ee hriey CR Te pn 80
16 Sambucus canadensis, 1 plant; Elderberry eH .25
17 Sp-aea Vanhouttei, 9 plants, 3’ apart.
an Houtte’s Spiraea. . . . . . 2’-3 2.25
18 Sp-..aea prunifolia, 2 plants, specimens 3/-4' 1.00
19 Lonicera tatarica rosea, 2 plants 4’ apart.
Pink-flowered Bush-honeysuckle . . 2’-3' .50
20 Amelanchier botryapium, 3 plants, 3’ apart
Shadbush or Juneberry aoe tae hea 2/-3’ 75
21 Rose Harison’s Yellow, 1 plant . . . 2! 35
Hereaceous PLANTS
22 Narcissus Trumpet Major, 25 bulbs 5’’-6’” apart.
Large deep yellow Trumpet-daffodil, April and
AV MARR eN NN ne UC Ses 1.25
23 Darwin Tulip Edmee, 25 bulbs, 5-6’ apart. Vivid
CHemwarosematenViaviluin llr) ylise fon. 1.50
24 Iris pallida dalmatica, 20 plants, 12” apart. Large
flowers, soft china gray blue, late May . . . 2.40
25 Peonies, double white, 7 plants, 23’ apart. Festiva
maxima, early; May and June. Couronne d’Or,
MIGREARCICM LINC ME ya, lnc ie 2.45
26 Papaver orientale Mrs. Perry, 18 plants, 12’’ apart.
Oriental Poppy, salmon rose, late June and July . 3.75
27. Delphinium Gold Medal Hybrids, 15 plants, 1’
apart. Best hybrid Larkspur, June and July. 3.10
28 Phlox paniculata, white, 20 plants, 15’’ apart. Miss
Lingard, early, June and July, pale lavender eye.
Etta’s Choice, August and September, pure white 2.00
29 Helenium autumnale, 10 plants, 18” apart. Sneeze-
wort, yellow, September. . . .... . Tao
30 Nepeta peperita, 10 plants, 12’’ apart. Peppermint 1.20
31 Marigolds, tall orange African, seeds (annual) .. .10
Centaurea cyanus, deep blue Cornflower, seeds (an-
nual) Oa edad RDS, es SID Sie 19 Fe aaa ; .10
Tora estimated cost of materials | $60.10
165
10
SCALE IN
side of the fence, and who has
not admired their blossoms, like
small white single Roses, along
a country road?
Grape vines, preferably the ~-
Catawba whose clusters of small 4
red fruit ate as attractive to the
eye as they are delicious to the
palate, furnish shade for the
trellis adjoining the living room. Wild
strawberries would also thrive in the shade
near the blackberries, but would have to
be collected from the meadow or the road-
side. In the shade of the fruit trees where
it can spread undisturbed mint makes a
fragrant and a useful bed. ‘The space be-
tween the driveway and the house can be
bordered with parsley and sown to Mari-
golds and Cornflowers of orange and blue.
[X LATE May and June “‘the high tide
of the year” is the time for us to enjoy
all the flowers we can obtain for concen-
trated effect near the terrace and front of
the house. As a foil to the herbaceous
plants as well as for their own effectiveness,
we have the shrubs—principally white
flowering varieties—hybrid Lilacs single
and double, Pearl-bush whose gleaming
clusters are arrayed against a background
of tender green; the familiar drooping
Spiraea Vanhouttei and, guarding the en-
trance, the taller Spiraea prunifolia or
Bridal-wreath, later on glorious in the
autumn red of its foliage.
With these will bloom the pink Tartarian
Honeysuckle whose branches, like those
of the Pearl-bush, are very early clothed
with luxuriant foliage—a charming charac-
teristic in a shrub—and whose red or yellow
fruits, though not edible, are in midsummer
extremely decorative.
"THE advance guard of the flowers
for which the shrubs are to form
the setting is composed of the Darwin
Tulip Edmee which, of deep cherry
rose, twinkles and flames against the
white cascades of ‘Spiraea Vanhouttei,
to be followed very shortly by the
large porcelain-blue flowers of the Iris
pallida, which, with their broad, gray-
green leaves are refreshingly outlined
against the silvery-gray foliage of the
Eleagnus. And against the same effec-
tive background, but a little later in
the season, will flash and coruscate
the coral-pink petals of the Oriental Poppy. These
feature flowers are also seen near the terrace,
where are masses of true blue Larkspur and the
sulphur-yellow blooms of Harison’s Yellow Rose,
the whole forming one of the most exquisite
combinations possible. Vo the shady front of the
house has been relegated the early and late
double white Peonies, whose foliage is attractive
even after the flowers have had their day.
If one’s patriotism must find expression in the
color scheme, try an effect of blue Larkspur, red
Oriental Poppies and candidum Lilies, omitting
any pink and yellow. Such would be at its height
of bloom about the Fourth of July.
Later in the summer, chosen in early and late
varieties with the object of prolonging the bloom,
is a single large clump of white Phlox, and in
the autumn one tall mass of yellow Helenium.
Not even the vines are allowed to neglect their
duty in this watensive garden. The scarlet
Trumpet-creeper comes in midsummer; in the
autumn the fences are white with a mantle of
Clematis paniculata.
°° 10
2° Jo
PEeT
SPACR FOR VEGETABLES
Living Room
199° KIG'o™
& (4g
A
Dame QUT
Devoted to stern utility now but planned for the future as a garden of
beauty and recreation (See Planting List)
Sore
The Entrance to the Small Place sy rutn pean
HERE are three definite ways of disposing
of the drive on either a small or a large
place; and other ways are but amplifica-
tions of these. First: the drive which
ends in a turn around such as that shown in
diagram No. 1. Second: the “horse-shoe”
drive. Third: the drive which terminates in a
court or yard.
On small places there is little room to conceal
the defects which each one of these schemes de-
velops when crowded into a limited space, and
what to do with the drive very often resolves
itself into a choice of evils. Everyone in these
days of plentiful automobiles wants to be de-
livered at his own door, and the drive is not the
negligible factor it was when sixteen foot touring
cars were unknown. One finds that the whole
of the front yard is to be given over to drive, or
else that the only available lawn space must be
cut in two, and all there is to do is to minimize the
encroachments of the road by grading and planting.
The “turn around” scheme, which admits of
more manipulation than the other two, cannot
be worked in a space which reduces the inside
radius to less than twenty feet. This means
that a car can make the turn in a circle whose
outside diameter is sixty feet. An ellipse should
be eighty feet or more over its long diameter.
Regular circles and ellipses are almost always
objectionable, from the standpoint of art, and
luckily one seldom sees them. Trees or rocks
or some other irregularity in the surface of the
ground usually intervenes to turn the road from
an even course, but if these fail they should be
introduced into the scheme. The circle, which
is too obvious a form to be interesting, and lacks
the dignity necessary to make it formal, should
be modified and used in frankly naturalistic
work with its form concealed by grading up the
lawn centre, and by planting.
The turn around with plantings that harmonize with the
curved line
From the dimensions given above it is plain
to see that a house which sits from seventy to
one hundred feet back from the road may easily
have its entire front yard taken up with road.
Sometimes it is not a bad idea to regard this space
as one large turn around for in so doing one may
gain more unbroken lawn space than in any other
way, for instance such a drive as the one shown
on diagram No. 4 in which the house is placed
one hundred and ten feet from the road, run
straight from the gate for twenty-five feet,
skirts the property lines and leaves the centre
portion free for lawn. Clumps of bushes and
Here is the simplest turn around drive—it affords a good
open lawn space in the centre, yet direct sight is broken by
shrubbery
The simple horse-shoe, “in and out’’ does not leave much
scope for the planter except in grades
trees here and there partly hide the road and
wise grading sinks it slightly below the level of
the lawn, making it invisible for at least part of
its length.
With the house moved up nearer the road this
scheme becomes unfeasible and some other kind
must take its place. The so called “horse-
shoe” drive, one which leads into the grounds
only to lead out again directly, is open to the
same objection as the circular turn around. It
lacks any quality of surprise or mystery to give
it interest. Unless it iB planted and graded
so that one side is partially, if not wholly con-
cealed from the other, it is as dull as the book
who’s ending is apparent from the beginning.
As a means of easy and convenient access to the
house it is beyond reproach. It adapts itself
to almost any sized place and usually admits of
curves easier from the automobilist’s standpoint
than any other kind of drive, but it reveals all
too readily the limits of the grounds, and makes
besides, two distinct entrances. ;
The alternative for this kind of drive is one
ending in a yard, sometimes when its size, dignity,
and position warrant, called a forecourt. On the
small place it must be more often than not, a
side or back court, which is service and garage
yard as well as turn around. Its great use-
fulness lies in the fact that it banishes the
extent of drive necessary for a turn around,
from limited lawn space, at the same time leay-
ing it possible for a car to approach close to the
house.
A car can back and turn in a space forty feet
square providing it is entirely covered with
gravel, that is to say has no centre of grass to
be avoided. Such a gravel covered area is not
sightly and must be put some place where it can
be shut off from view by vine covered trellis
(i
GARDEN ~ AEA q] ere
Od.
Ia g
: pa
CSC ALE sam emma!
The terminating drive almost straight but curved and
planted to screen the garage doors
SUGGESTED DISPOSAL OF TREES AND MASSING OF SHRUBBERY TO FIT THE DIFFERENT STYLES OF ENTRANCE DRIVEWAY
166
JANUARY, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
167
or bushes. A typical yard of this sort is shown
in diagram No. 3 where the drive runs back to a
side entrance of the house and then on, to the
garage. It is always best to curve such a drive
slightly, if possible, so as to give room for plant-
ing which shall conceal the yawning doors of
the garage from the street. No drive on a small
place is without its drawbacks and this one has
the very substantial one of compelling all cars
to proceed to the garage yard in order to turn
around and go out again. This may be less
objectionable to the minds of some people than
sacrificing the front lawn space or opening it to
the street by way of the frank simplicity of a
“horse-shoe”” shaped drive. One must weigh
the unpleasant qualities of each and decide which
adapts itself best to the necessities of the individ-
ual place, but there is no hidden trick which a
landscape architect, however adroit he may be,
on produce, to solve the drive puzzle on a small
place.
Shrubs and Flowers for the Entrance Garden steruen HAMmeBLin
Adaptable Material for the Entrance Plantings—Things That Do Not ‘Run Away,” and Yet Are Good Growers
TRANGE as it may seem, the larger
and finer the house and smaller and
consequently more valuable per foot the
land of a city home the more ordinary
and even unkempt the grounds about it. Every
city, large or small, has whole streets of fine
houses where even neatness, say nothing
of beauty and grace, ends with the work
of the architect and decorator. And
equally, every city has streets ;where
every tiny yard shows careful attention
on the part of someone, and is an ex-
ample of the same expressive taste that
we expect within the house walls.
This care for the appearance of the
exterior rooms of the house is particularly
evident with the homes builded within
the last quarter century, even factories
add flowers and grass to their outside;
but the wonder is that the idea of making
the surroundings of a city house beautiful
has not taken hold faster than it does.
And I am particularly astonished when I
see the city homes of people of means,
those whose summer homes in the coun-
try are praised by the press as models of
the garden art, that from the street appear
plain dingy, and lead me to wonder
whether it is the family or the superin-
tendent of their country estate that is a
lover of the beauty of trees and flowers.
N ONE of the exclusive residence
streets of one of our large cities one
house has three Chinese Magnolias in the
narrow space between the house walls and
the street. When these bloom in the
spring thousands of passers-by exclaim at
the wonder. Yet t don'e suppose that
other property holders on that street ever
think that their lot will grow one equally
as well, or a Dogwood, Red-bud, or
group of Iris; a round bed of Tulips
On the left Forsythia as a spring feature of this driveway. Adaptable to much less pretentious places
followed by Geraniums is all that is expected of
the soil.
We think that the garden art is for the suburbs
and the rural homes, or parks and public gardens
in the city, and forget that wherever grass will
grow we can have flowers that are as permanent
A well ordered entrance merely means selection of plants that fit, yet many good
gardens fail in this detail
a feature as trees. There is a great deal more to
city gardening than setting out plants; but for
the present the desire to have them is all that I
shall urge. The ways and means and reasons
therefore are left for personal solution. But
I know one objection to any gardening on a
city lot—there is no one to give it any
attention. ~The owner hasno time and no
experience, the cook, butler, and chauffeur
neither experience nor interest to offer, and
the man who cuts the grass weekly all
along the street has no garden training.
And the fact remains that many plants do
require considerable attention for garden
results, and we want no wild effects about
a city house. Plain smooth lawn is far
better than a tangle of weeds and flowers.
So my present contribution to the prob-
lem is the idea, that if no one is availa-
ble to give a city front garden its necessary
attention, to have a few touches of color
against a background of house wall and
green lawn, that such shrubs or herbs be
introduced that care for themselves and
yet are always tidy. It is not so easy
to name these, but we can discover not
a few. Weread that the Hardy Hydran-
gea (Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora) is
a “common” shrub, and it is very fre-
quent, and why? Because it has, in addi-
tion to other obvious characters, the
crowning civic virtue of taking care of
itself when set in any ordinary soil. And
what one plant does, others can do as well.
"T HERE will not be any trees planted on
the city lot—not when the ground
floor of the house is more than one-half
the lot area; we get shade, shelter and
green of foliage from the trees the city
street offers. Our hedge had better be
a fence or railing of metal, stone, or
wood, as the material of the house
Only where there is ample space is it wise to plant a tree; but then do so by all means
168
JANUARY, 1919
suggests. A solitary shrub
or even two of larger size
and a group of smaller ones
will be all the woody plants
used, and therewill probably
be no herbs at all—but we
shall see! Not in the mid-
dle of the rectangular grass
plots, but in the corners next
the street; near the house
walls, unless there are vines,
upon it; or one on either
side of theewalk symmetri.
cally spaced as to location
in reference to street, walk
and house will in general be
the spot chosen, but | am
suggesting kinds, for ar-
rangement would vary with
every site. A mathematical
precision in spacing is nec-
essary for practical and es-
thetic reasons, and to help
this effect I want to nomi-
nate only such plants as
have a reserved way of ar-
ranging their roots and
branches, and have no bad
habits or constitutional dis-
orders.
An evergreen shrub is
eminently appropriate, and
Box (Buxus sempervirens)
has been used by us since
the Cavaliers landed at
Jamestown. In the North,
where Box is not hardy, I suggest the com-
pact forms of Arborvitae (Thuya occidentalis)
as pryamidalis, sibirica, or Wareana, Vervae-
neana, ericoides, etc., and no colored ones. If
you try Rhododendrons or other Heaths. you are
in for failures. And Dwarf Box and dwarf
Arborvitaes, as Tom Thumb and Little Gem,
will give the evergreen edging that some front
gardens favor. When these have become utterly
common all along the street we shall have dis-
covered others to use.
OR large shrubs, say ten feet high and
as wide, for bloom I suggest, first of all for
early spring Fortune’s Golden-bell (Forsythia
suspensa Fortunei) or Hybrid Golden-bell (F.
intermedia), for neither you nor the nurseryman
can tell them apart. You don’t want Weeping
Golden-bell (F. suspensa) for it falls upon the
lawn; you want.a plant that is very erect. When
Golden-bell is about ten times as common in
city lots as it is now we shall urge for variety
in early spring the use of Flowering Currant
‘(Ribes auréum) for its spicy fragrance, or Lonr
cera Standishii or L. fragrantissima, for though
the pale yellow flowers are not as brilliant they
have'a delicate fragrance. ;
Weigela gives its pink, red or white flowers even in the shade
of big trees, but does far better in the open
THE:- GARDEN MAGAZINE
If the Magnolias are too big for the front yard perhaps they can be used as sireet trees, as at Rochester, New York
IN JUNE, if I can have but one shrub in my
little lot, I look from Weigela (Diervilla
hybrida) in white and all shades of red and rose,
to Mock-orange (Philadelphus coronarius) with
its fragrant creamy white flowers, and I think
of Van Houtte’s Spirea (Spiraea Vanhouttei)
whose wreaths of white have just passed. Either
of the three will satisfy me and require no atten-
tion from me, but I hope they will not grow to
Be 0, she
oe eee
Spiraea Vanhouttei is a wonderfully useful shrub as speci-
men or hedge in shade or sun
be too large for their place. On account of size
I must omit Lilacs, but I might arrange with
my neighbor to set one on the property line
where we both could enjoy it.
IF THE family is away in midsummer we might
as well omit the customary Hydrangea, or if
you must have it, substitute the type form
(Hydrangea paniculata) that has more graceful
open spires of flowers.
‘Then for bloom in Sep-
tember we would prefer the
old-fashioned Althea (Hibis-
cus syriacus) in white or
With the thought of bright
winter berries I’d like a
Barberry, not the Common
Barberry (Berberis vulgaris)
for it gets too large and the
fruit has no bright color in
winter, but B. Regeliana,
which is a tall Japanese
Barberry and keeps its coral
berries until spring; or I'll
have a High-bush Cran-
berry, not the common sort
from Europe that everynur-
seryman has (Viburnum
Opulus), for its fruit is not
plentiful and the leaves curl
with green lice, but the
American species (V. ameri-
canum) which is loaded with
coral beads from October
to March.
Of all these large shrubs
remember that youcan have
but one or two, so you must
decide whether you want
the’ show in April, June,
September, or December.
Each is as permanent as the
house furniture, requires no
repairs, and slowly enlarges
from yearto year. But you
may haveroom fora half-dozénsmallershrubs,'some
that never exceed five feet in height. We might
pick from the following—Spiraea ‘Thunbergii,
Philadelphus Avalanche, etc., Deutzia Lemoinei,
Spiraea Douglasii, Hypericum Kalmianum, and
Japanese Barberry (Berberis Thunbergit) or
better some of the new ones, as B. stenophylla,
B. sinensis, B. dictophylla, B. koreana, etc., if
only you can buy them.
FOR low edging to the beds, or the edges of
the walks, we can use Dwarf High-bush
Cranberry (Viburnum Opulus nanum) or Dwarf
Mountain Currant (Ribes alpinum nanum),
but as they are deciduous and nearly off duty in
winter, some of the stiff herbs will do fully as well
and furnish flowers also.
NOW ‘the herbs that we shall use will not be
many; we do not want a whole flower
garden, but merely the suggestion of one. Plan
so that the shrubs and the few herbs by their
flowers shall assist one another; your Forsythia
should have summer-blooming herbs near it;
the Hydrangea was preceded by -a «group of
Peonies. But, after all, the flowers on the herbs
are only incidental, the foliage and tidy habits
of growth, as well as great length of life, are the
The old fragrant Mock-orange (Philadelphus) is not sur-
passed as a shrub for lawn or mass planting
clear pink, single or double. ~
JANUARY, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 169
supremely important things to consider, for
though we enjoy them most when they are in
bloom they must be “dressed for company”
from spring to frost, always presentable, though
not in flower. Remember that the soil is none
too good to start with, that nobody will care
for them, even to cut away dead leaves, that
daily sun will be but a few hours, and dust of
travel will settle on them. Of the host of herbs
that a big garden or a nursery catalogue may
contain, I check off the following score or so as
eminently fitted for the position as assistants in
my city front yard and from each group but a
few can be elected, but with thousands of little
bulbs beneath them to crowd the idea of spring.
Bushy like a small shrub, and used as such:
Blue Indigo (Baptisia australis) 3-4 ft., blue
flowers in June like a Lupine, but the
foliage stays.
Gas-plant (Dictamnus albus) 3 feet, white
better than rose, and shining permanent
foliage.
Garden Peony (Paeonia albiflora) 2-3 ft.,
use the older sorts that are compact in habit.
Slender and used to fill out shrub groups:
Great Turkey Flag (Iris pallida) 4 ft., best
“German” Iris, and foliage very enduring.
Siberian Iris (I. sibirica) 3 ft., the best narrow-
leaf Iris, all forms equally good, also I.
sanguinea.
June Lily (Lilium elegans) 2 ft., the flat-
clustered Lily in June, dark orange-red.
Stems soon wither.
A Little Artistry
by twice back yard last season. It was,
according to plan to be one of those some-
what “‘different” affairs, a sort of mingling
of art and practicality. J was to furnish the
artistic touch and the vegetables were to come
strong on the practical side. To insure the
success of such a venture I figured that, if
flowers and grass patches were mingled, the
effect would be so novel and appealing that
the plebeian vegetables could be induced to do
their prettiest in the way of production of
quantity and quality.
he sentiment was a pretty one and the more
I visualized the average vegetable garden the
more convinced did I become that I was contrib-
uting to the gaiety of nations by attempting my
floro-vegeto advance gardening stunt. Fine
business, thought I, and I went about to do the
deed. I first made paths and I edged these with
carrots. This was for effect rather than for
the crop. In some places I sowed beets right
behind the carrots. Art again. Did you ever
see carrots and beets growing together? Humph!
The pole beans held forth at the back of the
lot and I gave them room enough to allow me to
ut a Tobacco plant between each two poles.
on’t sniff! If you ever saw Nicotiana affinis
doing business under favorable conditions you
would change your mind.
Asters between the tomatoes! I did it by
treating the tomatoes to a stunt that I learned
from a very wise man. Says he to me—“When
you grow tomatoes slice off all the leaves buta
few sap lifters”? And says I, “Tl do it.”
And I did it. And by doing it found room to
place Asters between the plants. Art again.
White Asters only.
so we progressed. I positively ached
in my impatience—to speed the warm weather
I yearned.
You know, that now that it’s all over, I attri-
bute some of my disappointments to this over
yearning business I indulged in. Sentiment in
dealing with vegetables is fine stuff after you
[es a little vegetable plot in my two
Tiger Lily (L. tigrinum) 3-6 ft., the most
enduring of garden Lilies, foliage scant,
so hide the stems through the shrubs.
July.
Henry’s Orange Lily (L. Henryi) 3-6 ft., as
enduring as Tiger Lily, of better color, and
later. August. Foliage stays.
Late Lemon Lily (Hemerocallis Thunbergi1)
3 ft., forms true clumps, good companion
for Siberian Iris. July.
Little bulbs to push up in early spring under shrubs
and herbs (to be planted in fall):
Two-leaved Squill (Scilla bifolia); flowers in
spike, deep blue, also white; March; earliest
blue bulb.
Siberian Squill (S. sibirica); flowers fewer,
larger and appear for longer season; bright
blue, also white.
Garden Crocus (Crocus vernus); pure white
and dark purple most effective. Other spring
species also good.
Yellow Crocus (C. moesaicus) best yellow
species, blooms with others.
Common Snowdrop (Galanthusnivalis). March.
Other sorts have larger leaves and flowers,
but this stands abuse.
Spring Meadow-saftron (Bulbocodium vernum).
Rosy-purple in March, effect of Crocus, but
close to the ground.
Autumn Crocus (Crocus speciosus, C. zonatus,
C. sativus, etc.) for Crocus effect in October;
plant in August and let alone.
Meadow-saffron (Colchicum autumnale) in
THE SUAS
Ea
BY Luxe J. DoocuE
have gathered your crops. But to come through
strong, me for cutting out poetic flights in the
future. Whoa Bill! Pve gathered my crops
before I planted them.
Come back to the spring again and let’s sow
more seed and put out more plants. I got as
far as the Asters among the tomats. On the
outskirts of the patch Castor Beans. By the
way did you know that the Government is willing
to buy all the castor oil beans that you can find?
Sure!! Nasturtiums—tall for the fence, low
growing where there was a chance. More art.
Some plants of Kochia (Burning Bush), Petunias,
Cosmos, Verbenas. Any vegetables? Why
sure. (Remember that while I have rattled off
this great list of flowering plants they were
used delicately; that’s it, delicately.) Pole beans,
bush beans, tomatoes, carrots, beets, chard.
No rough neck stuff. No turnips, cabbage,
pumpkins, squash
said there was no squash but I want to cor-
rect that. There was squash, in fact there
was a lot of it. In fact—but that’s another
tale, and a sorry one.
I had just reached a state when I felt assured
that my idea of an artistic vegetable-flower
combination was what the world needed and as
I cast my eyes over the luxuriance bursting forth
and welling over I figuratively “blew up,”
consumed by the thought of the glory in store
when the Autumn days were upon us.
But joy killers, like flies, are always with us.
I know that the average boy lacks sentiment.
I went on a vacation and left one in charge of
my garden. I vacationed for three weeks. Like
the cat, I came back.
variety, for Crocus effect in September;
several similar species.
Dense and round, a solitary plant sufficient, as
accent:
Thread-lily (Yucca filamentosa) leaves stiff
and evergreen, just as well if it does not
bloom.
White Day-lily (Hosta plantaginea, or Funkia
subcordata) for clumps of broad green
leaves; flowers white. July.
Siebold’s Day-lily (H. Sieboldi, or F. Sieboldii)
foliage like above, but blue-green; flowers
pale blue, hidden. July.
Fortune’s Day-lily (Hemerocallis Fortunei,)
leaves like Siebold’s, but narrower, and spikes
of flowers well above foliage; light blue.
July.
Blue Day-lily (H. caerulea or ovata) leaves
smaller, broad, light green; commonest sort;
flowers lilac. July.
Lance-leaf Day-lily (H. lancifolia) leaves
narrow, flowers lilac. August and September;
smallest species.
Low and used as edging to other plantings, or
along edge of walk or fence:
Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis),
for dark green foliage, no showy flowers but
leaves evergreen. Ground cover.
Scotch Pink (Dianthus plumarius) for fragrant
flowers and narrow evergreen bluish foliage.
Get compact old-fashioned sorts.
Myrtle (Vinca minor) evergreen, as ground
cover under all shrubs where grass refuses.
in a Little Garden
When I looked at my garden did I smile?
Was I elated?
I was not!
Squash! Here, there and everywhere! Plas-
tered over the landscape, luxurious in its golden
barbaric splendor. The boy was gone. Faded.
While he lapsed in attention to duty through
some mysterious agency an evil hand had strewn
squash seeds into my vegetable patch and the
selfsame seeds waxed strong and throttled every-
thing in sight.
“Punk” was what I said. I am really glad
that I wasn’t in my normal condition for if so
possibilities were horrible to contemplate. But
that wasn’t the whole story. Troubles, like
bananas, come in bunches.
When I followed the trend of the vines I saw
they had gone over the fence and under the
fence into my neighbor’s yard. He was away
and the process of obliteration was going on
gloriously. My grief was softened when I saw
this.
The biblical injunction about loving every
man as your brother didn’t apply here. There-
fore I rejoiced to see the myriads of golden
flowers that carpeted his flower garden in hun-
like destruction. Sure thing your sins find you
out!
Having demonstrated the fact that flowers
and vegetables mix well, in a growing state, I
closed up shop and went into the country.
While there the mean thought of what the squash
was doing to my neighbor’s garden added merri-
ment to my outing.
The chill of autumn had come upon us and
the cider mills were working overtime when
returned home. “Piffle’ and “gadsooks” thrice
over. When I went into my garden I met a
sight that staggered me. That’s why I said “‘Pif-
fle’ and ‘‘gadsooks’’—special anathemas for
desperate occasions.
There stood my neighbor sneering at me in a
sidelong glance while his children helped him tote
into the house the total of eight large Hubbard
squashes. J got none.
Out of the snow snowdrops,
Out of Death comes Life.
—David Gray
Peace!
Back through the garden gate! This is
joyful summons to those of us who marched out
at our country’s call two years ago and turned
our steps into the straight and narrow paths
between rows of vegetables, or betook ourselves
to walks of industry far from the flower-strewn
ways, winding and sweet, wherein it had been our
happy privilege to spend our days. Gladly we
went forth to bear our part in the great en-
terprise and thankfully we return to make
ready our gardens for the country-wide fes-
tival of flowers which shall bear testimony to
our heart-felt relief that War is back on the
other side of Winter and that before us lies Spring
and Peace.
Surely never before have we been so ready to
open our hearts to the “‘vital, hopeful rapture”
held out to us by the Young Year and surely
never before has it been so plainly our duty to
give this rapture happy expression. For a
gardener, to express himself adequately is to add
unto his possessions a tree or shrub, to consign
seeds to the earth, to plant flowers and again to
plant flowers.
Across the sea upon the battle fields of
France and Belgium and throughout the devas-
tated lands Nature is proudly drawing across
her torn and wasted breast a garment of fresh
verdure and smiling flowers that the signs of
war be blotted out. So shall we here strive to
make of the Home Land so glad and beautiful
a place that the men who come back to us will
forget what they have seen of horror and evil
and suffering. ‘This is not a sentimental idea; it
is as plainly practical and important as any
occupation that has engaged us during the period
of the war! The gaiety of flowers never jars
upon the most sensitive condition of mind and
they constantly suggest freshness and renewal.
There is ample testimony too, to their soothing
effect upon the men suffering from shell shock
or otherwise worn and broken by their terrible
experiences.
And then, as Mr. Barron told us in December,
a new period is opening to American horticulture
and each should seek to make his part in ita
worthy one. Let us realize that gardening
is at once an exact science and a high art and
should not be treated as a haphazard pastime.
The very best that is in us is not too much to
dedicate to its pursuance.
For myself, | am glad that the snow lies deep
upon the garden; glad that no dear, audacious
green thing thrusts through the mold to enchain
my attention, that no bud of tree or shrub rends
its winter jacket in warning of Spring’s approach.
I need time to adjust myself to the new order;
time to study the catalogues: more attentively
than ever before, to go over my hasty notes of
the past two busy years and to make and re-
make lists and plans to create a beauteousness
within my garden walls such as has never before
shown there. Winter should be to the gardener
what it is to the plants themselves—a time of
rest and preparation.
» THROUGH, THE GARDEN GATE
Ya
B Wilder
ST, -. Mathor of My Garcen' and Coftir indy Garden”
Tue Pare CoryDat.
Last autumn I saw
in a hill-side garden in
Westchester Co., N. Y., this fine little native,
Corydalis glauca, most delightfully naturalized.
It was sprouting up along the paths, between the
stones that bound the borders, in the rose bed,
and its fresh, gray leafage was most attractive
where all about it was brown and flowerless. It
is at home in rocky woods where the soil is cool
and rich, but apparently takes up its quarters
easily where stones and some shade are provided.
Its blossoms are tiny sacs hung upside down and
smartly tipped with yellow and its leaves are
pale gray, delicately divided into finely-eut
leaflets. It blossoms throughout the greater
part of the season and is quite worthy a place
in any rock garden. -
It belongs to the same engaging family as
the Bleeding Hearts, Squirrel Corn, Dutchman’s
breeches and Fumatory, and though an annual
or perhaps a biennial, sows itself freely and is
quite hardy.
Bricut STEMS.
We take little notice of the stems of trees |
or shrubs during the flowery months but now
when the earth is white or brown and the branches
leafless, one’s eye is alert for color wherever it
may be found. Here is a list of gay or otherwise
conspicuous stems that I have noted this winter
growing wild or in gardens:
Betula populifolia (White Birch) silver-white, Native.
«« alba (European White Birch) silvery. — -
Fagus americana (American Beech) gray. _Natica.
Cornus alternifolia (Panicled Dogwood) bright green.
«« alba (Siberian Dogwood) red. p
asperifolia, Warm reddish-brown. Native.
«« stolonifera (Red Osier) dark red. Native.
« sanguinia (European Red Osier) red-purple.
Amomum, purple. Native. ;
«« racemosa (C. paniculata) gray. Native. _
Salix yitilina aurea (Golden Willow) orange. Native.
a Britzensis, reddish.
“purpurea (Purple Osier) purple. :
“« babylonica (Weeping Willow) warm olive. —
Jlex verticillata (Black Alder) clouded gray, Native.
beads the prim black alders shine”’).
Kerria japonica (Jew’s Mallow) bright green.
Rubus odoratus (Purple-flowering Raspberry) purplish. Native.
“occidentalis (Black Raspberry) Plum-color with whitish
bloom.
Comptonia peregrina (Sweet Fern) Copper-brown. Native.
Benzoin aestivale (Spice Bush) warm grayish-brown.
Native.
(“With coral
It is so pleasant to meet with these warm-
colored trees and shrubs in walking about the
country that it is a wonder we do not make more
use of them about our homes to “cheer the un-
genial day.”
A Fari-Fiowerine Iris.
I should be interested to hear of the experience
of any one with Iris lurida. With me it blooms
twice during the year; once in May and once in
October and I have not heard of its behaving
thus anywhere else. Neither Iris books nor
Iris catalogues known to me mention it and
I should think if so valuable and unusual a char-
acteristic were common to any Iris attention
would certainly be drawn to it. An Iris flower
after the month of July is most uncommon and
if my plants are peculiar in this respect I should
like to know it. Mr. W. Richardson Dykes,
the Iris expert in a note recently seen, mentions
a Hungarian form of I. aphylla as always flower-
ing twice (in May and again in August) and also
a hybrid of I. Chamaeiris and I. trojana but the
habit even in his wide acquaintance among
Irises is evidently unusual and he makes no
mention of I. lurida.
I know that an Iris whose regular blossoming
is interrupted by its being moved or by some
other disturbance, will often give a flower or two
at a later season; but with J. lurida the habit is
a fixed one, my plants having been in the same
place for at least eight years and the October
display has never failed. The late flowering
170
is quite as free as the earlier one, that is, the
plants are well set over with dark plum-color
buds but in October these are sometimes frozen
before they fully expand.
Iris lurida is a member of the Bearded Group
of Irises and is, according to Mr. Irwin Lynch,
very close to I. sambucina and J. squalens. It
is, however, quite without the fine perfume of the
first and is considerably dwarfer than either.
The flowers scarcely overtop the leaves. The
standards are a bright plum color with copper
lights and the falls are a darker, duller shade.
The stem is three or four headed and the spathe
three flowered. It is a very handsome and easily
grown Iris for the front of the border. With
me it grows luxuriantly in a dry situation and is
one of my favorite Irises. It would be interesting
to hear if there are any other Irises with the fall-
flowering habit.
ANNUALS FOR THE Rock GarDEN.
Rock gardeners are as a rule, I find, rather
sniffy about annuals. One seldom hears them
mentioned in circles where mountain plants are
discussed and even the best books on the subject
give us no suggestion$ as to the utilization of this
valuable class of plants. Perhaps it is argued
that things so ephemeral as annuals and so
enduring as rocks are out of place in each other’s
company, but the fact is that they are as indis-
pensable there as elsewhere. Casualties occur
in the rock garden for the same reasons'as in the
level borders and the rock plant is far less easily
replaced than the ordinary hardy perennial.
Then too the blossoming of the majority of
mountain plants is a most fleeting affair; a mo-
ment of vivid beauty and then a serene greenness
or grayness for the rest of the year; and as the
festal season of most of them is in spring or early
summer, there is little to reward the eye in search
of a gay snatch of color after June, save for cer-
tain of the Campanulas and a few such constant
bloomers as Vitidenia triloba and Tunica saxifraga.
Of course to sow such every-day dwarf an-
nuals as Sweet Alyssum, Candytuft, or French
Marigolds in the rock garden would not seem at
all fitting. They must have other qualities than
mere dwarfness to recommend them for these
high circles. But there are numerous small
annuals, compactly tufted or circumspectly
creeping, that have quite a proper “Alpine air”
that should certainly be used to brighten our
rock gardens in late summer and to refurnish
the corner of some dear departed or the resting
place of small Tulip or Daffodil. A list follows:
One of the prettiest of these is Gypsophila muralis, whose greenery
is of the lightest and most feathery character and whose blossoming
is like a tiny sunset cloud. I have had it serenely flowering in chinks
between stones long after its more hardy appearing companions
had been sent to rest by the frost. Its seed is perfectly hardy so
there it is year after year with no trouble at allto me. Its height
is about four inches.—Sedum coeruleum, with all the characteristics
of its important family in miniature, is another of great charm.
Its height in my garden is about four inches and its pale lilac-blue
blossoms are produced over a long period. Poor soil and full sun.
—Tonopsidium acaule, the dainty Violet Cress with pale violet-tinted
blossoms is a mite of about two inches that thrives best in shade
or where it will not suffer from drought. Its seed is hardy and it
blooms a few weeks from the time of sowing.—Campanula attica
has all the charm of its lovely race, a height of three inches and blue
or white blossoms. Full sun or half shade-—Kaulfussia amelloides
(Charieis heterophylla) is a small South African bearing lavender
Daisies with a warm purple disc.—Veronica glauca is a lovely little
four inch plant from Greece with bright blue flowers——Abronia
umbellata (Sand Verbena). This is a perennial too tender for our
climate but blooms the first year from seed if sown early. It is a
graceful, lax trailer with heads of lavender-pink blossoms with the.
fragrance of vanilla. Poor soil and sun.—Grammanthes gentianoides.
A little three inch annual with bright orange colored flowers. Full
sun. Limnanthus Douglasiti. A charming California poppywort
with slender half trailing stems carrying frail yellow “poppies.”
—Eschscholiziatenuifolia. Primrose colored blossoms and gray leaves.
—Leptosiphon densiflorus hybridus is four inches high and bears small
brilliant blossoms over a long period. Half shade.—Silene pendula
bijou makes a stout little tuft and bears bright pink blossoms
over a long season.—Saponaria calabrica is another pink flowered
annual of half trailing habit. Bright sun and ordinary soil.—Sanz1-
talia procumbens is a stout little trailer with tiny sunflower-like
blooms produced in great profusion. Full sun—Other annuals
suited to this use are various diminutive Gilias, Nemesia Blue Gem,
Mesembryanthemum tricolor, Anagallis linifolia and A. Brewertt,
Nemophila insignis, (shade), Asperula azurea setosa and Flatystemon
californicus (Cream Cups).
The Garden of My Dreams £.1. maryianp
How it Gradually Took Shape and What I Learned by Experience that Beginners May Now Benefit by
garden what it now is, and as at last I
am just beginning to feel satisfied perhaps
the result of my struggles will be of some
use to other would-be gardeners who don’t
know how to begin. In the beginning-I did
not use much common sense, and made the
design myself, which was a great mistake at the
time, so different from now, when the magazines
are full of suggestions, and plans that may be
copied. Good luck was with me, however, for
my little design proved to be successful in
the long run.
Years were wasted groping about in the
dark, as it were; for I did not know what to
plant, nor how to plant it. My idea was to
search the catalogues for perennials and
annuals both seeds and plants, and I bought
them all, I do believe. How often have I
wished my money back, and the time! it has
slipped away from me never to return.
saw pictures with the spring flowering
bulbs in bloom, with the herbaceous plants
pushing up between them, to bloom later—
they looked so lovely that I planted mine in
the same way. They were all right while
blooming, but what could I do with the ugly
yellowing stems that were left behind?
And in the autumn I would forget and dig
up the poor bulbs and sometimes cut them
with my spade.
One day I stumbled across Miss Jekyl’s
“Colour in the Flower Garden” and read
her suggestions that bulbs must be planted in -
a place to themselves, a spring garden. I quite
agree with her about them, and about everything
else she has written about flowers, for hers is a
master mind where gardens are concerned, and now
I follow.her lead as much asI can. But her Eng-
lish climate is so different from ours, and her
plants blossom at such different times, that it
is not practical to make the same combinations
and I have had to work out problems for myself.
But my all is crowded into a small space about
sixty by forty feet and it is a problem to keep it
full of color during the growing months—I have
not the space nor the means to have separate
gardens for each season. But it’s fun striving to
reach perfection. I haven’t
found a resting place yet
for my Spring Garden, but
I have stolen a corner
from my practical hus-
band’s potato patch for a
nursery that was badly
needed; there I have my
baby perennials growing
away to be used when
needed, and for cut flowers,
and rows of annuals, and
Dahlias, and Roses.
|: HAS taken me nine years to make my
lig
o
‘THE accompanying plan :
is just one fourth of
the child of my brain.
There are four centre beds,
paths between and around
them, the corners and sides
form one big bed. Two
sides are edged with a tall
clipped hedge of Norway
Spruce, which I never
would have planted but it
was already there. An
arch at the entrance has a
Dorothy Perkins Rose at
the foot of each side, and
shrubs divide the garden
from the lawn. Just in-
side the arch is planted on
each side a group of Yucca
flaccida (also known as
2 S 10f
‘DUM SPECTABILE)
Yucca filamentosa). They are a little way
back from the path and the intervening space
is filled in with the woolly leaved Stachys lantana.
I am always hoping my Yuccas will bloom with
the Roses, but so far they haven’t exerted them-
selves. But that is my own fault, for I thave
moved them about too much. Now that they
have found a permanent home great things are
expected from them. Just back of them are some
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, trimmed back
each year to keep them the proper height, and two
The arch with the Roses blooming upon it
or three plants of Gypsophila paniculata to give
that misty appearance that is so bewitching.
My beds are edged with Dwarf Box, kept
clipped, and behind it everything is planted in
lines or singly, the plants can be crowded so
much better in this way. Half the garden is
devoted to pink and red flowers, the other half
to blue and yellow with as much white as I can
squeeze in everywhere. This is the simplest
way to avoid color discords. I plant closely, to
keep the weeds down, and many of the early
bloomers can be pulled up to make way for the
others, put out in the vegetable rows, and re-set
in their places in the autumn.
G.-GYPSOPHILA PANICULATA
H-HYDRANGEA PANICULATA,VAR. GRANDIFLORA
The Sweet Williams are very beautiful; they
and the Clove-scented Pinks I use in long lines
just back of the Box. The plants can be pulled
to pieces after blooming for two or three years,
and. each little slip that has roots to it planted
again. Nearly all the perennials need renewing
every few years either in this way or by raising
young plants from seeds. They will not grow on
indefinitely. Who can resist putting Foxgloves
behind the Sweet Williams, they always bloom
together and rarely disappoint.
The spring comes with the Primroses, soon
to be covered with the great leaves of Funkia
Sieboldiana, and ‘Funkia subcordata grandi-
flora, and then follow in quick succession
Irises, Sweet Williams, Foxgloves, Clove-
scented Pinks, Canterbury Bells, Delphin-
iums, Yuccas, and Yellow Day-lilies, Daisies,
the gorgeous Phloxes, Veronica longifolia
subsessilis, Asclepias tuberosa, Hollyhocks
and Boltonia asteroides, hardy Sunflowers,
hardy Asters and a few others, giving me
wonderful color all summer long:
HOSE who don’t know the intricacies of
garden material should begin with the
old standbys just named, and never try any-
thing new in the garden without first be-
coming acquainted with it in the nursery.
I have banished Peonies to the nursery as
their season of bloom is short and really I
have not the room for them. All the an-
nuals excepting a few Nasturtiums, Sweet
Alyssum, Ageratum, and Petunias both the
pink and the white, useful for filling in any
bare spaces which occur are also in the nursery.
I have wasted much time by planting annuals
in the flower garden, now they grow in rows with
the vegetables where they can have all the room
they need and a weekly cultivation.
I think too that this is the only way to plant
Roses, Dahlias and the Hardy Chrysanthemums
—they must have plenty of room and be culti-
vated frequently.
AKING combinations of two kinds of
flowers for bouquets for the house is a
great delight. These combinations are lovely:
Spirea Vanhouttei and
the early dark purple Iris;
the largedouble Sunflowers
and white Boltonia aster-
oides; Euphorbia corollata
with Marigolds or with
scarlet Zinnias; Celosia
plumosa and Clematis
paniculata; Butterfly-
weed and Veronica longi-
folia subsessilis.
difficult to learn what
shrubs to use, as near the
large towns there is so
much suburban develop-
ment that one can go and
see a great variety of
growing shrubs that were
planted by experts. [have
no perennials in front of
my shrubs, for I like to see
their branches sweeping
down over the green sod,
and many of them are
beautiful in winter when
other planting would spoil
their appearance. Those
which bear fruits are my
HEDGE OF NORWAY SPRUCE
Here is the plan solved by nine years of progress and adjustment. It gives flowers a-plenty
171
favorites. I don’t believe
there is a more magnificent
shrub growing than the
Japanese Berberis, in the
FTER all it is not ©
172
THE GARDEN
MAGAZINE
JANUARY, 1919
spring with its tender green leaves which turn
a beautiful scarlet in the autumn, and its berries!
how wonderful they are. J often wish for a steep
bank so I could clothe it with Rosa multiflora,
Celastrus scandens, and Yucca with the Japanese
Barberry as peacemaker.
I have the large shrubs planted singly or in
groups of two or three with the smaller ones at
their feet. The tall ones that include Viburnum
Opulus plicatum, and V. lantana, Crataegus
coccinea, and Lonicera tatarica; the Rosa rugosa,
Rhodotypos kerrioides, Eleagnus longipes, Clethra
a
alnifolia, Rosa setigera, dwarf Philadelphus are
the shorter ones I like best. Though I like to
have the soil well prepared for shrubs, as for the
herbaceous plants, I cannot dig out two feet of
earth as some advise, for that is far too expensive.
So I mark off my bed first with the aid of a gar-
den line and some small stakes, after that I have
the man remove the sod and spade the ground
as deeply as he can, using the mattock where
necessary, then he covers the bed with as much
manure as I can get—I have never yet had enough
—he spades this in, and then I mark the places
for the holes with stakes, which should be from
three to six feet apart according to the size of the
shrub. The holes are made about a foot and
half deep, with the sod and plenty of manure
in the bottom. I always prepare the bed long
before needed, and before my order is given, so
IT can know just what I want and the correct
number of each.
Don’t, please don’t buy a hundred miscellane-
ous shrubs, not knowing what you will get, just
because they are cheap. Show your friends
that you have a brain and know how to use it.
VICTORY GARD ENs
o FOOD FOB THE oe Spat DOR...
Building the Garden Plan on a Unit Basis ¢ ROCKWELL
Fully Meeting the Family Needs, Not Just Big Crops the Object
ANY, very many, gardeners go astray at
the first step in the belief that the
chief objective in their gardening is
growing big crops. They assume that
being a “good grower’ is synonymous with a
“good gardener.”
Unless the garden is definitely planned to fill
the requirements of the home table, it will be a
wasteful, and therefore, a poor garden, no matter
how large the yields of the individual vegetables
obtained may be. In fact, under such conditions,
the bigger the yields, the greater the waste!
The first object in laying out the plan for the
garden is, of course, to make it fit as closely as
possible the requirements of the kitchen. It is
not enough to make every square foot yield the
maximum amount of vegetables—because every
head of lettuce, or bunch of radishes, or quart of
beans which is not used, not only does no good,
but might better not have been grown at all—
since the soil has been robbed of just so much
plant food which might have gone to the produc-
tion of something that could have been used.
Of course, every reader of the Garpen Maca-
ZINE is familiar with “‘succession crops,” “‘com-
panion crops,” “inter planting,’ and so forth.
But these things are of no advantage in themselves.
They are really technical details which unless one
knows definitely what he is aiming at, may do
far more harm than good in the garden. In-
finitely more important than these details is the
general arrangement or grouping of the crops.
To obtain the maximum usable returns.
Foundation of the Garden Plan
NSTEAD of following some “model garden”
planned to meet somebody else’s requirements
the gardener should learn for himself the general
principles on which to build his own garden.
The arrangement or grouping shown on the
accompanying skeleton charts has proved to be,
by actual field experiments, an efficient arrange-
ment for the general purpose home garden. There
are six main groups or cropping divisions of the
vegetable gardenwhich together cover the require-
ments of the home table throughout the year.
Group 1.—Early Planted Vegetables that May Be
Followed by Others
These are grouped together for two reasons.
They may be all planted at approximately the
same time—on the same day, if necessary and
where the garden is small and the gardener’s time
Jimited—and they will mature near enough to-
gether so that nearly the entire space occupied
by them may be cleared off and forked up for
replanting at one time. More intensive culti-
vation is possible by interplanting the second
crop—that is by sowing the seed or setting the
plants before the first crop is quite used up, so
that it is getting a start before the first crop Is
entirely off the ground. ‘This, however, is more
work and it has the serious disadvantage of
not allowing as thorough preparation of the soil
for the second planting. For convenience in
starting the planting of the garden, Group I is
placed at one end.
Group 2.—Early Planted Vegetables Which Re-
main the Entire Season
These things are grouped together for the same
reason as those in Group 1, They may follow
directly after Group 1, but, as a general rule,
it is best to put them at the other end of the
garden leaving the space in between for suc-
cession plantings and for second plantings.
Swiss chard, one vegetable in this group which
is gathered more frequently during the entire
season than any other vegetable, may advan-
tageously be placed near the edge of the garden,
where it may be “‘got at” most readily. Two
or three feet of parsley at the end of the Swiss
chard row will be found convenient for the same
reason (incidentally, parsley is one of the things
most generally over-planted in the home garden).
Under some conditions, it may be advantageous
to save the space at the ends of the garden for
some vine crops, such as melons, squash, or pie
pumpkins, where the vines can run out over the
grass. As a general rule, however, it is best to
grow the vine crops between rows of corn.
Group 3.—First Succession Planting and Laté
. Planted or Tender Crops
All of the early planted vegetables which may
be followed by others rapidly deteriorate in
table quality after they reach maturity. For
this reason, only small plantings of these things
should be made—a sufficient length of row to
yield only what can be used during the time they
will remain in good condition. Succession plant-
ings of these things are made adjacent to the first
planting, becanee some of these, too, will mature
in time to be followed by other things, and
because in cultural requirements they are more
easily cared for when grouped near the first
plantings of the same thing. Following these
may come the first planting of the tender vege-
tables, which could not safely be put out when
the first planting was done. ‘This means in most
localities an interval of four weeks or so between
the first and second planting, as indicated by the
dates on the skeleton plan.
Group 4.—Second Succession Planting and Crops
for Summer and Fall
The space between Group 3 and Group 2
(or between Group 3 and the end of the garden,
if Group 2 has been planted next to Group I),
should be utilized for second succession plantings
of quick maturing things which will not long
remain in condition, and for special late summer
and fall crops which do not do well if planted
in the spring. (By ‘careful management, some of
the space to be occupied by Group 4 may be used
for extra early crops planted as soon as the
ground can. be worked. But it is possible to
overdo the policy of * “keeping all the ground
working all the time.” It is not economy to
sow seed merely for Ks purpose of having the
ground occupied, and, unless handled very care-
fully, it is easier to lose more on the second crop
than can be gained on the first).
Group 5.—Crops for Fall and Winter and Last
Succession Planting
Group 5 follows as a second planting on the
January, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
“SKELETON” CHART SHOWING EFFICIENT
GROUPING OF VEGETABLES FOR
GENERAL PURPOSE GARDEN
Early planted (hardy)
vegetables that may
be followed by other
things. and
Apr. 1 1015
Crops for fall and winter,
last succession
plantings.
July 1 to 15
First succession planting,
and late-planted
(tender) crops.
May to to 25
6 Cover crops for winter.
Aug. 1 to Sept. 1
Second succession plant-
ing, and crops for
summer and fall.
June 10 to 25
Manured and trenched for
2 Early planted vegetables Or.
to remain all season.
Apr. to15
same ground occupied by Groups 1 and 3.
Except where the season is very long, it is seldom
possible to get a second planting on all of Group
3 in time to mature. It should be the gardener’s
aim to get a second crop from as much of this space
as possible. But it is only a waste of time,
work and seed to put in second plantings which
do not have a reasonable certainty of maturing
before hard freezing weather. Where there is
any doubt in this respect, it is much better to use
the space for the purpose of Group 6.
Group 6.—Cover Crops for Fertility
Not only the quantity of crops you can get
from your garden, but the quality also depends
largely upon keeping the ground plentifully
supplied with humus. Every year at least part
of the garden—about a third if possible—should
be devoted to growing an abundance of some
green crop for plowing or spading under, to
furnish humus and fertility. In no other way,
can the garden so cheaply be kept in an excellent
condition. Approximately a third of the garden
can be put into cover crops each year by changing
the relative positions of the different groups of
the vegetables from year to year, and thus estab-
lishing a three year “rotation.” The entire garden
can thus be kept in splendid condition with a
great saving in manures and fertilizers. Where
space is a controlling factor however this can be
ignored and the necessary humus, etc., intro-
duced as direct dressings.
Filling in the Skeleton
F COURSE, so far, we have not made a
“garden planting plan,’—but that is just
what I have tried to avoid because it is not possi-
ble to make a standard garden plan. No two
gardens are of exactly the same size, and, if they
are, no two families have exactly the same needs
and tasces—but garden plans can be systematized.
And the general plan outlined so far, can be
carried in other steps without getting into too
much detail. It is possible to fit in to the skeleton
chart the different types of vegetables which
will give the best results. Then the individual
gardener can put in the different quantities and
varieties to suit his own needs and tastes. This
is what has been done in chart No. 2, which forms
the basis for a very efficient garden and yet
leaves the gardener free to work out the details.
After filling in the units—how much of each
vegetable do you want? Here is where the wife
comes in—or should! She will have some idea
as to how many times a week you will want
cabbage, or onions or sweet corn and how much
will be needed each time.
Figuring Out’ the Amount of Each Vegetable Needed
‘O: MAKE the matter clear, let us take a few
f examples, say cabbage. tomatoes, and
lettuce.
‘Let us suppose ‘that. you are fond enough of
cabbage to want it°on an average of twice a
week, and that two heads of extra early cabbage
and one head of summer or fall cabbage a meal
will be a sufficient quantity. Then you would
want about eight cuttings of early cabbage, or
sixteen heads. At a foot and a half apart,
this would be twenty-four feet of row. Some
heads would not mature, but a few would be
big enough to do for a single meal in themselves
so that one row in a‘garden thirty-five feet wide
would be working on a safe margin.
Tomatoes are useful for so many purposes
that you probably would make use of them during
a season on an average of once a day—say two
quarts of fruit at a time. The middle of July
to mid-September, or 60 days. At two quarts
to the foot of row, which is a good yield from well
‘cared for plants, you would want approximately
60 feet of row or two rows in a 25 to 35 ft. garden,
173
UNIT CHART, WITH TYPES OF VEGETABLES
AND ORDER OF PLANTING SUGGESTED
Pole beans
Tomes (after radishes and spinach)
Onion sets
Peas, early
Cabbage, early (plants)
Cauliflower, early
(plants)
Lettuce, early (plants)
Beets, early (plants)
Lettuce, spring
Turnips, early
Kohl-rabi
Beets, early
Carrots, early
Apr. 1 to 15
Corn, extra early
Brussels sprouts
Cauliflower
Cabbage, winter
Beets,
Lettuce, fall
Turnips
Radish, winter
July t io 15
Lettuce, spring and main
Turnips, early and main
Beets, main crop
Carrots, main crop
Peas, main crop
Beans, green pod
Beans, wax
Beans, dwarf lima
Squash, summer
Corn, early
Melons
Corn, medium
Cucumbers Cover crops for green
manuring:
Rye,
6 Vetch,
Crimson clover,
etc.
Aug. 1 to Sept. 1
p
Celery, early (plants)
May 10 to 25
Lettuce, suramer
Beets, fall and winter
Carrots, fall and winter
Corn, early
Squash, winter
Corn, medium
Celery, winter (plants)
Rutabagas,
Witloof chicory
Leeks
June 10 10°25 Manure and trench for
winter.
P Parsley
arsnip
Salsify Sept. 1 to Oct. 15
2 Onions
Swiss chard (or New
Zealand spinach)
Apr. 1 to 1s.
preferably an early and a late variety, one to one
and one half dozen plants of each.
Lettuce, considering the season from the
middle of May to July, and from the middle of
August to October, is a total of 12 weeks. Most
varieties under average conditicns will not yield
good quality heads during a period of more than
two weeks. To have a continuous supply, then,
one would need to set out plants early in the
This vegetable garden of last year was planned on the unit basis idea of meeting the grower’s actual needs
174
spring, and to sow seeds then, and about a month
later. And for fall a summer variety in June,
and an early and a late fall variety late in July
or in early August. If lettuce is wanted nearly
every day during this period, it would take two
heads a day for ninety days, or a total of 180
heads. To produce this, assuming that both leaf
and head lettuce would be grown, would require
about 200 ft. This would mean a maximum of
eight 25 ft. rows during the whole season. In
Light on
HE turmoil of the last four years has
forcefully taught us to realize that the
home vegetable garden is a real factor
in the nation’s affairs. When we tre-
member that the product of our home gardens
helped release the foodstuffs that fed Belgium
and France we may well feel proud. But the
dawn of 1919 still carries with it both other oppor-
tunities and possibilities.
If I thought for one minute that there were,
among GARDEN MacaziNE readers, many who
did not themselves, grow most of their fresh, green
food I would say “For heaven’s sake get in line.
Get a rake and a hoe, plant a food garden; if not
for your own benefit, then for the sake of the
nations.” But of necessity our gardens this
year must be made in accord with the available
supplies, for they are not yet normal, and a little
reasonable attention to planning our programme
of seed buying sowing and harvest, in the light
of exact information on supplies, will be ‘time
well spent.
As an example, the gardener who is fond of
peas will do well to order seeds this month; for,
while our armies were marching victoriously
against the enemy in Europe, another, a mean
enemy at our backdoor, attacked the pea crops
at home. Much of what the aphis left, the
blight got; and then a drought further curtailed
the season’s supply of seed. So, if your seedsman
says, this year, ‘I am shy of Gradus, please take
World Record” be thankful you are offered a
worth while substitute. Marchioness does not
perfect as handsome a pod as either Gradus or
World Record, but the pods are well filled and
there are more of them. To use a commonplace
expression: don’t be “finnicky” when it comes
to peas this year. Be glad there are any at all.
\ X 7HILE peas show a record shortage, beans,
except in a few isolated instances, are in
abundant supply. As a class, the green podded
Swiss chard has come to be recognized as one of the most
profitable vegetables
THE GARDEN MAGAZIN
most cases, however, six rows would be sufficient.
In similar manner, the number of rows of the
different vegetables wanted can be estimated
and the chart filled in (Distances between rows,
amount of seed required, yields, and other data
have been given in numerous tables published in
earlier volumes of the GARDEN MAGAZINE).
If the garden area is limited, you will of course
have to make adjustments to cut down the less
desired things possibly even leaving out alto-
JANUARY, 1919
gether the least essential. The matter of vane-
ties is discussed elsewhere. In making selections,
remember the important and practical thing is to
follow types and buy your seeds from that stand-
point. Most good varieties are listed by most
seedsmen; and the new gardener will do well to
stick to the things that have proven satisfactory.
It is much more important to plan your garden
well than to spend your time hunting for all the
latest “novelties.”
the Seed Catalo gues A. KRUHM
Giving an Inside View of the Available Supplies for the Season. . Importance of Considering Types Rather than Mere Names
bush beans have not been as productive of a seed
crop as their wax.podded brothers. Some of
the choicer varieties of bush limas—my favorite
Fordhook among them—are about as scarce as
peas. Bountiful has again been vindicated as
the most dependable of the flat green-podded
When its handling is understood petsai will be better appreci-
ated. Sow in August and get heads in October
type of bean. But just the same, even if some
kinds are more easily obtainable than others,
it would be well to husband the seed for we have
before us a prospect of severai “lean years” in
seeds, because of imminent labor shortages.
And it is more than ever desirable for the
gardener to learn to look upon specific vegetables
as representing a type or a class, and so simplify
the problem of selection of varieties from the
catalogue of the dealer.. For instance, in beans
we have the green-podded and the yellow-podded
classes. In both there are flat-podded and round-
podded kinds or types, and of each several sorts or
varieties. The round-podded green companion
to Bountiful is Full Measure—a hummer for
bearing stringless quality pods.
The duet of green-podded reliables is dupli-
cated among the wax-podded type in Surecrop
Stringless (flat-podded), and Brittle Wax (the
best representative of the round podded Kidney
Wax type). This last named meets all require-
ments of a round-podded yellow kind, supersed-
ing, in a degree, the Dwarf German Black Wax
Pencil Pod Wax, etc. Anyway, would any
body grow Currie’s Wax, Rustproof Wax, Webber
Wax, Davis Wax, or even Wardwell, among the
flat-podded kinds, when such a wonder as Sure-
crop Wax is available?
SWEET. corn promises to be available in
quantities after several seasons of disap-
pointing shortages. The last few years have
seen most yellow kinds make good headway
in popular favor—most of them, to be sure
on the strength of Golden Bantam quality-
However, Seymour’s Sweet Orange promises to
rival Golden Bantam in popularity some day,
if not quite so early, it is a stronger grower later
in the season; Golden Evergreen is bound to re-
place Stowell’s and White Evergreen in the home
garden; and Golden Cream will ultimately take
the place of Country Gentleman. In the mean-
time, the customary quantities of Cory, Kendel’s,
Howling Mob, and Pocahontas will be planted.
O*XE definite result from the great war Is a
proper appreciation of root crops. Beets,
carrots, kohlrabi, parsnips, salsify and turnips
are enjoying an unprecedented popularity. And,
as a result, American-grown seeds of all are now
available in quantities to satisfy all demands.
Crosby’s beet and Detroit Dark Red are of the
early type most widely grown, because of eminent
satisfaction given everywhere. ‘The late type is
fitly represented by Long Blood Red.
Among carrots, the choice of names is great,
though selection becomes very simple when you
look upon the different kinds representing types.
There are the short, the half-long, and long kinds
and they correspond to early, midseason, and late.
The most popular short sort is Oxheart. Both,
Chantenay and Danvers are half-long. Half-
long Luc is the finest French strain abtainakle
to-day of the half-long type. The Improved
Long Orange 1s the latest to be ready, and gen-
erally appreciated as a dependable winter keeper.
Those who learned to value the turnip-rooted
The home garden wants a medium sized round, smooth fruit
freely produced. Bonny Best on Long Island
JANUARY, 1919
type of cabbage called kohlrabi will have to be
satished with White Vienna, since its purple-
skinned companion is hardly obtainable—but
after all what’s the odds, in actual use? Neither
parsnips nor salsify offer any difficulty in selec-
tion since only two of each are obtainable. Not
so in turnips, however. England, the past season,
grew an astounding acreage and tons upon tons
of all kinds of turnip seed will reach the market
from over there. Remember the types—flat,
round and elongated. Flat White Milan, Purple
Top White Globe and White Ege are dependable
standards.
A) BILE not strictly a root crop, onions de-
serve mention here as a profitable crop in
the home garden. Again, learn to look upon
them in classes and types, each having certain
characteristics. As a whole, the white kinds
are the earliest and mildest; the yellow kinds are
the most popular, and the red kinds the latest
and best keepers—but also the strongest flavored!
Foreign onions are past history. American
grown Danvers Yellow Globe is helping to flavor
European soups and stews. And don’t forget—
Danvers Globe, Ohio Yellow Globe, Rocky
Mountain Danvers, Michigan Yellow Globe, etc.,
are all children of one great race. Three famous
onions from Southport, Connecticut, have given
that town world-wide fame—the Southport
White, Yellow.and Red Globes. They are the
acme of American standards in onions.
RADISHES always will be zhe tempting spring
A™ delicacy of the home garden. There is
absolutely no reason why they should not be a
“year around” vegetable by growing only those
specific types that fit the seasons, viz: spring,
summer, and fall, and others for winter.
The Button, or earliest, radishes are useful
only for spring work. Scarlet Globe, Rosy Gem
-and French Breakfast are the champions in this
type. The longer sorts last longer before becom-
ing spongy, but require longer to get ready.
In order of their appearance on the table of this
type, I recommend Icicle, Long Scarlet and
Cincinnati Market. Chartier is the summer
radish “par excellence.”” White Strasburg is an
early fall root; White Chinese the best tasting
sort for early winter; Black Spanish the best
keeper.
AS’ TO vegetables grown for greens and salads,
there is good news! It is good to know
that the “famine”’ in spinach seed is over, per-
haps never to return. Almost over night
the great Northwest has become a world factor
in producing seed of this vegetable. It is pro-
duced literally by the ton throughout Washing-
ton. Aren’t you glad? It is also good to feel
that New Zealand spinach has reached a point
of deserved recognition as a wonderful producer
of greens in the midsummer garden. Swiss
chard, or spinach beet, has also come into its
own and our home gardens will never again be
without a row of some sort of plants that furnish
“‘ereen”’ food acceptable to humans and so essen-
tial to their welfare.
UNLESS every: home gardener takes kindly
to growing some cabbage this year, there
will be an unpredecented shortage of “Liberty
cabbage” in 1920. The cabbage seed crop is one
of the shortest in the history of the country.
As the result, commercial producers will not grow
as large quantities as usual. On the other hand,
a “packet”? of seed contains just as much as
ever, and if every home gardener does his part,
we will have millions of small individual cabbage
patches this year instead of a few thousands of
big ones. There are three types—the Early
pointed; the Flat Dutch; and the Round Danish.
Remember that the pointed ones do not keep
well; the flat Dutch type is the most popular,
and the Danish is the most solid, and conse-
quently usually keeps best.
don’t know just where tomatoes “belong”
but after all is said, we have to acclaim the tomato
as the most dependable, allround American vege-
table. Two distinct classes of it are available,
the standard or tall, and the dwarf. The latter
is particularly adapted to the small garden, but
its season of bearing is but short and, with one
exception (Dwarf Giant), the fruits of the dwarfs
do not size up to those of the taller vines.
The standards in turn, are divided into four
types—the scarlet round, the purple round and
the globe-shaped also having both scarlet and
purple members. Manyfold (globe-shaped) is L
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE! 175
think unquestioned leader in its class, as a perfect
salad fruit, the earliest bright red. Hummer,
and Coreless, are larger, later sorts of the same
color. There is only one purple globe-shaped
sort—the original Globe—to my mind the best
from all points of all tomatoes I have grown
unless it shares honor with Bonny Best, among
the scarlets. Both are early, productive, and
the fruits uniformly of medium size, also very
smooth and generally handsome. Chalk’s Jewel
is a'good one to select for succession—it bears
until frost. Stone is still the standard main crop
scarlet for all purposes, and is really unrivalled.
A® THE basis of all good salads, lettuce ranks
alone. Four types ask for consideration—
the loose-leaf, butterhead, crisp head and cos
varieties. The first are the best for the man with
least experience; and always remember that
only “head” lettuces make solid heads. The
butterheads are the true “quality product”
but require careful cultivation. The crisp-
heads are large and crisp but have little flavor.
The cos varieties are useful as summer standbys
when all the rest “go to seed.”
The choice in loose-leaf sorts is easy. Butter-
heads are divided into early and late—the Tennis
ball type being the earliest, the Mammoth
Black Seeded Butter and All Seasons the latest.
The best flavored “crisp”? head is Mignonette.
The most popular cos is Paris White Cos. Re-
member please, that for best results, lettuce
must be thinned out repeatedly.
Other salad plants are endive, cress, mustard,
and petsai or “Chinese cabbage’—which in fact
isnt a cabbage at all! Fifteen years ago we dis-
carded petsai and threw away a quantity of seeds
simply because we did not know how to grow it.
To-day petsai bids fair to rival Swiss chard in
popularity because we “discovered” that it
should not be sown until August rst in the lati-
tude of Philadelphia. Look at the head photo-
graphed October 17th, from seeds sown August
znd. A twenty-foot row held two dozen plants
like the one shown, good to eat as a salad, or
like celery, or cooked as regular cabbage and
when so served is even more delicate in flavor
than the savyoy type of cabbage. If you can
beat it please let me know.
The Garden in the South
HIS is the month for careful thought and
planning. The proper site for a garden:
A southeastern exposure. The proper
site for an orchard: A northern or
northwestern exposure.
A garden should have an evergreen hedge as
a wind-break on the north side. The orchard
is exposed to the north to check early blooming
of the trees as a late frost is apt to kill the fruit.
_ The character of the soil must be considered
in selecting the site. For a garden, a good loose,
loamy soil with much sand is best. For the orchard
and Rose garden a subsoil of clay is preferable.
After deciding the location of garden and or-
chard draw a plan on paper, to scale. Make the
rows run north and south if convenient so
the plants will get the maximum of sunlight.
_ Arrange to have the permanent plants—such as
small fruits, raspberries, currants, gooseberries,
strawberries, with asparagus and rhubarb in a
far off corner of the garden so that the constant
changing crops which need more working will
@ more accessible. Plant herbs convenient
to the house where they can be constantly handy
for seasoning in the daily cooking.
AFIER planning on the paper, one can easily
calculate the number of feet that can be
spared for the various vegetables. It. is still
Necessary to concentrate one’s attention on the
more important vegetables, because of the urgent
need of food over the whole world, and in this
reconstruction period to make the minimum of
work make for a maximum of food. Avoid
fancy vegetables and fruits: try no experiments.
Get your seed from the most reliable seedsman
[Read carefully other articles elsewhere in this
issue. |
Send for seed catalogues right away; go over
them carefully; make out your order; and send
it this month—send a full order for the whole
season as seeds are scarce. If you are making
a garden for the first time look up the scale in
some of the back numbers of GARDEN MacaziINnEs
for January which gauges to a minimum the
number of seed per foot needed of each kind.
A list of the best and thoroughly tested vegetables
for the middle South were given in GARDEN
MacazineE Southern Reminder, January, 1918.
jf THE season is an open one much actual
work can be done to speed things along.
Asparagus trenches can be dug and a four inch
layer of manure or nitrogen gathering humus
be put in and dirt spread over this and the as-
paragus plants set in. Trenches for Sweet Peas
can fe dug and the peas planted; though many
people plant them in Noveniber The early
garden peas of the smooth variety can now be
planted.
On inclement days mend the hotbed sash;
make small individual coldframes the size of a
glass—i. e., 10 by 12 inches. These can be
used in early spring over a tomato plant, squash
or melon to force it along and to progect it at
night from early frost; later the glass could be
removed and a piece of plain cloth tacked over
it and used to protect plant from destructive
insects. There should be plenty of lettuce from
the cold frames and the space which is now vacant
can be used for early beets (Bessano), and French
Breakfast radishes, also an early sowing of kale for
greens. This is only done to be able to get greens
when snow covers the ground; for as a matter
of fact the salad greens—such as turnips, upland
cress and spinach grow readily in the open
eround. Cabbage plants of the early Jersey
Wakefield held over in cold frames with slight
protection can be set out in open ground in rows
24 feet apart and each plant 15 inches apart in
the row.
PRAY. The orchard should be sprayed,
if there is any sign of San Jose or oyster
scales, with the winter strength of lime-sulphur
mixture. Prune out dead limbs and those that
crowd each other. (Note. Early flowering shrubs
should not be pruned now, but immediately after
blooming.)
Virginia. J. M. Patrerson.
HE thrifty war-
time garden has
come to stay!
Perhaps nothing
short of war would have
thrust us easy-going
Americans into thrifty
gardening, but now that we’ve had the experi-
ence, we are in it to stay.
NEVER again will the American housewife
cling so helplessly to the corner green-grocer—
not while she has her own back-yard and her two
hands! Never again will the commuting hus-
band, having tasted the joys of fresh-picked
vegetables, having felt the pride in corn and peas
of his own growing, contentedly return to factory-
canned produce, or placidly eat of wilted corn
and shrivelled peas! Not he! Nor will he
again see with pleasure his whole ground space
devoted to lawn and himself, for recreation, to
the use of the lawn-mower. Instead, he will be
setting out dwarf fruit-trees, planting strawberry
patches, cultivating with skill and assiduity a
tiny kitchen-garden plot, for in America. the
day of the small garden has come at last.
Never before have the virtues of thrift and
frugality been fashionable, but Uncle Sam has
made them the fashion; and although fashions
are passing, and those who took up gardening
merely because it was “the thing”’ will presently
revert to type, yet the bulk of men and women
who enthusiastically went a-gardening will have
gained a love for it, and “‘get the habit,”—for the
love of a garden, once born in any one, Is as
imperishable as the love for children or for books.
Never does one get over it. In the making of a
garden there is real creative joy and no one who
has experienced that in any art or handicraft
readily relinquishes it.
Hitherto, in knowledge of horticulture and of ,
agriculture, the American woman has_ been
miles and miles behind her Continental and
English sister. Take women from whatever
station in life you might, and this was true.
Even now, we have not caught up with those
on the other side, but this year’s impassioned
sprinting, will have taken the American woman
a long distance on the way. In organization,
I believe we are not behind.
Not only has Uncle Sam made gardening
fashionable, but he has made it democratic to a
degree it never dreamed of before. Very likely
the drawing together because of a common peril
and a common enthusiasm, and the common
sympathy of haying sons or brothers or husbands
“over there” has made women forget the smaller
differences, which frequently divide club from
club and one group of women from another,
in a larger, more unselfish interest. But, be
that as it may, all of us have worked together
and coéperated to a degree unheard of before.
And now that we have found how well codpera-
tion works, we shall be loth indeed to abandon
the principle. The novel spectacle which this
year and last year saw, of men and boys of a
near-by city, quitting their regular work to help
get in the crops, of the women of a whole county
turning out to save the crops—all this is likely
to be repeated any time the need arises. After
all, it is nothing but repeating on a larger scale
the thing that takes place in every country com-
munity, where one neighbor helps another thresh
his wheat or get in his hay.
No one dreamed that garden clubs—usually
mere pleasant associations of the well-to-do—
could be so flexible, and that they could be so
generally useful. All over the country they have
served as clearing houses of information and as
bureaux of first aid to the unlearned and en-
thusiastic first-garden gardener. Few would
have thought it possible to enlist the aid of busi-
ness men and ‘“‘ Ad men,” of Park Commissioners,
and of working gardeners and commercial gar-
deners, in making a “ spring drive” on the vacant
Uncle Sam’s Boom to Gardening
lots and starting the work in back-yard gardens.
But we have found how admirably and efficiently
such a varied committee works, and those who
were on such committees, having seen the results
will be quite ready to serve again. For really
to put things through is worth while.
Tuanxs to Uncle Sam, we have found out
what public officials can do when they want to.
Here and there one in a comparatively unimpor-
tant office has so utilized his opportunity for
serving the public, that he has made it a very
centre of activities, making the small office stand
out like Portia’s “little candle” or the shining
of the “good deed in a naughty world.” We
have learned that it doesn’t in the least hurt the
sacred Park greenhouses to lend them to raising
tomato and cabbage and celery plants for those
who have no greenhouse facilities. And after
having done all these neighborly, possibly ultra-
democratic, but greatly appreciated things for
the public, it will be hard for a succeeding “Com-
missioner to prove that the greenhouses under
his control cannot, and therefore must not, be
asked to do any such thing.
So with the vacant lots. We have seen these
gladly lent, and in some cities where they weren’t,
impressed into service. Therefore no longer will
we calmly acquiesce in the sight of unused land
in our cities or towns, while in the same town are
men and women, or little children who want and
need gardens and have no land to cultivate.
THE BRINGING of city-boys out to work on the
farms may well be more far-reaching in its
results than we realize. Some weeks of actual
work on a farm will give a youngster a far better
idea of what farm life really is than the two weeks
of the fresh-air fund, for the poorer youngster,
or the weeks at a hotel for his wealthier fellow.
Tt will make for boys taking up farming, and
taking it up with an intelligent idea of what they
are about. Many a youngster who: summered
in the country has firmly fixed in his head the
idea of getting his father and mother and smaller
brothers and sisters out there to live, perhaps
has his mind on the very little house —instead
of a vague and abstract suggestion to the parents,
the thing becomes a tangible possibility.
Tue WaR-GARDENING has given a tremendous
impulse and direction to school-garden work,
and has given to its previous rigidity and bark-
bound condition a jolt from which we fervently
hope it may never recover. Never before have
school gardens had so much lay help in the way
of men and women from the outside who were
practical gardeners. The exclusive and excluding
attitude of many of the school authorities had
to be abandoned before the sudden necessity—
such positions as that of the Philadelphia author-
ities, that no one might teach gardening unless he
or she were a normal graduate. The outsider
might be a capable gardener, the normal graduate
might have but the slenderest bit of book knowl-
edge—it mattered not, the latter was given the
preference, and was examined as to her fitness
by those who themselves knew little of gardening,
but much of school routine. The idea seemed
to be to force on the school gardens the lock-
step uniformity of the schools. So that we had
the tiny plots, planned in arrangements and
contents to achieve the uniformity of the garb
of asylum orphans. But with the veritable
freshet of garden-enthusiasm on the part of the
children and their aiders and abettors, these
stiff banks of prejudice had to give away. For
what was called for and fairly clamored for was
results—the children grew real crops, and such
crops as were suited to the locality—crops which
should aid the family exchequer in meeting the
176
extreme cost of living,
moreover they were to
help in winning the war.
And these large motives
served far better than
the school idea of garden-
ing for the sake of getting
in touch with Nature—and what mother’s son
ever went a-gardening of his own volition for that
reason? He grew Roses because he wanted Roses,
or corn or beans because he was sure he’d like
them. The other object, the getting in touch with
Nature, is a blessed result of any gardening ven-
ture, but it’s an indirect result, and can no more
be gained by direct assault than the Kingdom of
Heaven may be taken by violence. And this
idee fixe of the Boards of Education, made it fairly
certain that the luckless children should never
be taught gardening by any one who loved it.
For the born gardener rarely gravitates naturally
to the Normal School. But Uncle Sam’s urgency
and necessity, and the resulting avalanche of en-
thusiasm and veritable army of young gardeners
made the thing more than the school authorities
could manage and women’s committees, local
garden-clubs, took up the work, whoever could
help was pressed into the service, and every-
where the children’s gardening was a tremendous.
success. ‘The crops were of definite money value,
many markets were organized where the youth-
ful gardeners might sell their produce.
Let us hope they never again will drop from
their last year’s practicalness and efficiency.
One would like to see the whole enterprise of
school gardens and school gardening under the
supervision and management of the Department
of Agriculture codperating with the local Grange
or-farmer’s association. There is no reason why
the school authorities should be expert in garden-
ing, or why we should expect them to be. Any-
way it is a charming point of contact with the
young folk for the towns-people, and for the
Federal experts—why not have it? the making
of gardens is a charming point of contact with
the young folk—so why not have it? Certainly
it 1s of value to the agricultural experts and also
to their fellow townsfolk, to have personal ac-
quaintance with the boys and girls of real
gardening ability while tothe children, such
acquaintance will be of real help in_ their
future business of making their way in the
world.
ANOTHER interesting effect of Uncle Sam’s
adventure in gardening, is that our worship at
the shrine of the great estate has passed and in
its place is a hearty recognition of the worth
of the small garden, of its value in the great
business of feeding the nation, and of its benefit
to the individual. The small garden has come
to stay. The compact, admirably kept little
garden, the matter-of-course adjunct to city or
suburban house, the type of garden which was
always present in the earlier days wherever was
the chance for it.
Now that the pressing necessity of food pro-
duction has passed a little, the gardens will be
less exclusively utilitarian, there will everywhere
be flowers a-plenty but the garden’s essential
character as first aid to the housewife’s larder
will not be lost, it has been found altogether too
convenient. Our women will be likely to go in
for fancy gardening, it is not impossible in the
suburbs that skill in the management of cold-
frame and hot-bed, success with strawberries
and asparagus may take the place of rivalry at.
bridge and we may find housewives as proud of
their gooseberries as was ever the Madam Vicar
of Wakefield. Even the complexion of our
suburbs may change, for who cares to expend
time and labor on the bringing to perfection of
peas or strawberries only to have a stray dog
or cat work on these a work of Germanic devas-
tation? Therefore we are likely, with the Return
of the Garden, to witness also the Return of the
Fence as a military necessity, and a return to
the old-time garden enclosed.
Frances Duncan.
,
January, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE — 177
SANNA
EVERGREENS
in 70 Varieties and Many Sizes
Give the Rose
A Service Star
The Rose has done its part in the great
World War.
Its “bit” has been in reminding men of their
homes and loved ones, and in crowning the
victors. Who, then, will refuse the Rose its
mark of honorable service to mankind?
These include four ironclad natives:
Douglas Fir Hemlock
Concolor Fir White Pine
For ten years, it so happens, a STAR has
marked in our catalogue all Conard Roses of
superior value.
From now on, we are going to attach a We grow the Conifers in great numbers for they
STAR to each of our choice rose plants. This
STAR means that we help you to choose for
your locality and needs—that we help you
plant right and that we guarantee that
are landscape material par excellence, whether
you have an estate or asmalllawn. If you wish
the best hedge, use Hemlock; the best windbreak,
use Douglas Fir. White Pine, easily grown even
in poor soil, becomes a stately monarch while you
watch it mature. All may be effectively used as
specimen trees and safely transplanted in large sizes.
DOUGLAS FIR
E. H. Wilson, an authority on cone-bearing trees, says: “either as a lawn tree, or for
avenues, or for massing, the Douglas Fir is equally valuable.”
@ or we replace them. a
Two other STAR Rose Service points of
particular interest to you right now—our new
52 page Catalogue and our Special List of the
best selection for your section sent to those re-
questing Catalogue by or before March 31.
A distinguished superintendent of parks says: ‘I know of no evergreen more beautiful
than the Concolor Fir, unless it be a well-grown Hemlock.” Downing says of the Hem-
lock: “In almost all cases, it is extremely ornamental.” The White Pine, he declares
to be the most beautiful of the 24 North American
species in the genus Pinus. It is beautiful in every
stage of its growth, from a seedling to a towering tree.
The full enjoyment of roses comes in having
your own blooms. Our STAR Rose Service
insures beautiful blooms right in your own
garden wherever you may live. Don’t put
re sending for free Catalogue and Special
ist.
Conard & Jones Co.
Box 24 West Grove, Pa.
Robert Pyle, Pres: Antoine Wintzer, V. Pres.
There are dozens of other Evergreens, each useful in
certain places. Among these are Arborvitaes, Cedars,
Retinisporas, Spruces and Yews. Then there are the
Broad-Leaved Evergreens
Some of these are well-nigh indispensable:
Andromeda Floribunda
Mahonia Aquifolium Leucothoe Catesbaei
Mountain Laurel Rhododendron
You'll find full descriptions and attractive prices in the
“1919 Rosedale Catalogue. We also list Roses,
Fruits, Perennials, and Deciduous Trees and
Shrubs. There will be a rush of after-the-war
planting. Write for Catalogue at once and make
sure of securing your complete planting list. We'll
mail it as soon as ready.
ROSEDALE NURSERIES
S. G. HARRIS, Prop.
Box A TARRYTOWN, N: Y:
2
Ce eee ee eee MM MMs
DISSEEROSES Tis Nurseries
Wie’== That Hold
eat Cneanies The Heat
When the Sun’s Heat Rays in Winter fall upon the SUN-
LIGHT Sash. they pass through and are saved to warm up
the bed beneath. It becomes a Summer Spot in Winter
Time, not only by day but overnight, for the double-glazing
holds the stored heat and the plants in the bed grow
unchecked.
That’s the story in brief of the
Sunlight double-glazed sash.
Get some and set them in
your garden. They are also
used on the top and sides of
the Sunlight ready-made
small greenhouses.
Ask for a Catalogue and
Price Chart
Sunlight Double Glass Sash Co.
937 East Broadway Louisville, Ky.
Before placing any order get
n f our late catalogue of evergreens,
anywhere. Plant any time. Old favorites and new hedge plants, shrubs, climbers
and rare sorts, the creain of the world's pro- roses, shade t¢ S Aad 7
ductions. ‘*Dingee Roses’’ known NESE, g rees, and the best
Pas the best for 67 years. Safe de- ol everything in large and small
livery guaranteed anywherein U.S. fruits. We have a superb stock
Write for a copy of
3)
{ for spring planting. Get the
; Our ‘‘New Guide to Rose varieties you pay for, at right
; Culture’’ for 1919. It’s FREE. prices, with fair dealing. ur
Ha ; . nee greatest care is to send fruit trees
Ss Illustrates wonderful ‘*Dingee Roses” in true to name Catalogue has
. 7A ; natural colors. It's more than a cata- aanehawy Inalkesaall = i g§
~~ | logue—it’s the lifetime experience of Wo iplul suggestions.
\G the Oldest and Leading Rose Growers in rite for it to-day.
Y America. A practical work on rose and flower culture
for the amateur. Offers over 500 varieties of Roses and other plants,
bulbs and seeds, and tells how to grow them. Edition limited.
Established 1850. 70 Greenhouses.
The DINGEE & CONARD CO., Box 137, West Grove, Pa.
it
VA
yd
The Morris Nurseries
West Chester, Pa. ,
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE MONTH’S REMINDER, JANUARY, 1919
The purpose of the Reminder is to call to your attention the things which should be thought about or done during the next few weeks. For full details as
to how to do the different things suggested, see the current or back issues of THE GARDEN Macazine.
Index for VOL. XXVIII is now ready.
volume, and is sent gratis on request.
HERE is only one way, of keeping oppor-
tunity from giving us the “‘go by” this year
in the same way as it did last year.—Plan,
now, to be ready to open the door wide at every
knock! Ever notice a new street after the real
estate agents and contractors got through with
it? The lots and even the houses may be as
near alike as “two peas in a pod.” Let a year
pass! Come back. The monotony has begun
to disappear. Striking differences are beginning
to show up. Return next year. Hardly any
two places are alike. Another year or two,
and you can hardly make yourself believe that
all these places started out only recently with the
same advantages and disadvantages. What makes
the difference? Planting, of course—but, back of
the planting, the PLANNING. The owners of
some of those houses started out with a definite
idea of what they wanted to achieve. Others
didnot. The planning makes all the difference.
Fix the Ideal in Mind
HAT do you want? That is the first
question to decide. Do you know what
you're after? “Of course, I do,’ is your first
thought. Try it. Put it down on paper. Dis-
cuss it with the other members of the family,
and see how far you get before you have to begin
to make changes.
Then what you do plan to put in must, of
course, be limited—limited first by space, and
secondly by time required to care for it. Most
people make the mistake of thinking expense is the
only limit, but space and time are more important.
What Best Suits the Place
IF YOU analyze any place, you will find it is
made up of many parts—lawn, shrubs, orna-
mentals, trees, fruit trees, and vegetable garden.
Hedges, walks, drives, and so forth are incidental.
All this applies net only to the brand new place,
but to the old place as well. Don’t be afraid
to use radical treatment. Put down on paper
your place as it is; then, make it over the way
you would like to have it. Some natural fea-
tures—big trees, stones, buildings and so forth
cannot be changed. But there will be much
that can be changed, if you do it gradually—a
bit here and a bit there, but all working toward
a definite end. Here are the steps to follow.
First. lay out space to be devoted to shrubs,
flower beds, borders, and so forth. Keep in mind
the fact that many fruit trees are ornamental
and can be used for a double purpose.
Second, get the lawn clear. If it is already
dotted with shrubs, small trees, and hole-in-the-
ground flower beds, plan to move or eliminate
them; a clean sweep of good lawn, is, without
exception, the most attractive feature your place
can have, if it is anything more than a lot.
Third, select a permanent place for the vegetable
garden, preferably with a southeastern or a
southern exposure. Plan to put a good, sub-
stantial hedge around the north and west sides
to shelter it.
After this general survey, go over in detail,
not only plans, but all the supplies, accessories
and so forth you will want in each different
“department” of your place.
For the Lawn
ON’T be content with a “moth eaten” lawn.
If it is getting worn out, make definite
preparations now to renew it in the spring.
Having the materials on hand when the time
comes is more than half the work! First of all,
you need a supply of good seed. To reseed
altogether, figure on a quarter of a pound to
each one hundred square feet. Reseeding a sod
already in fairly good shape of course will not
take so much. Avoid cheap seed, that is light,
full of chaff, and containing many undesirable
grasses. Poor seed will cause trouble for many
years and you should buy lawn grass seed only
from the most reliable scoures. In putting down
a big lawn, it will pay you to consult last year’s
articles on lawn making in the GarpEN Maca-
ZINE.
Get a lawn roller. No single implement con-
tributes so much to the welfare of your lawn.
With ordinary care it will last a life time—and
help the lawn to do so, too!
Keep the lawn edged. There is a handy, new,
inexpensive little edger to keep the lawns and
drives and walks in condition which should find
a place in every tool. shed. It is easy to use,
does good work and won’t get out of order.
Keep your lawn well fed. Special fertilizers
for lawn use are sheep manure, ground bone and
high grade humus. With these and plenty of
water, you will have little trouble in keeping a
good lawn. Plenty of water in dry weather
means a portable irrigating outfit. You will
never be without one after you once see it in
operation.
For the Garden
MABE a garden plan early this year. You
can’t tell what you want in the way of
seeds, plants, fertilizers or anything else until
you have your plan made. Follow the many
suggestions given on other pages of this issue of
the GarpeEN Macazine—but get at it now for
the spring comes apace! Order your seeds extra
early again this year. Spinach, tomatoes and
some other things which were scarce last year,
are in good supply again now—but peas, some
varieties of beans and corn, and numerous other
things are short. To make sure, get your WHOLE
orderin EARLY. Transportation conditions have
straightened out a little, but help is still very
scarce and the seedsmen will be overburdened
with work again this year during the busy period.
Start early, avoid the rush and get what you want!
Order your fertilizer early, too. The war is
over, but there are no surplus stocks. In fact,
owing to greatly increased demand, it is going
to be as hard to get this year as last. Don’t
take risks by waiting; order now. Get highest
grade you can buy—cheap fertilizer 1s almost
as much of a deception and a snare as cheap seed.
If your needs are extensive it will be well to buy
the “‘raw materials”—nitrate of soda, tankage,
dried blood, bone meal, and acid phosphate—
separately, and mix your own fertilizer for gen-
eral purposes; otherwise not.
Remember permanent plants for the garden:
Have you all the asparagus and rhubarb you
can use? Or have you tried asparagus and
failed with it on account of the “rust” which
has wiped it out entirely in some sections,
Rhubarb for canning as well as plenty to eat.
If you haven’t got that now set out a few more
plants this spring. Put it on your garden plan.
Plan to improve your garden this summer:
Can’t do it all at once of course. Group your
vegetables so those harvested late will come
together. Then you can remove every stone
in that section of the garden; plow or trench it
one to two feet deep; manure heavily; drain if
necessary; have it ready to yield bigger crops
than ever for years tocome. Put it down on your
plans now so it won’t slip your memory later.
Keep your garden equipment up to date: Are
you one of the gardeners who bought an outfit
of tools when you started in years ago, and
haven’t bought anything but a trowel and a
new watering pot since? Try out the new tools—
there are many very good ones that save time
and cost very little. Especially good are the
178
An index of contents 1s prepared for each completed
new adjustable rake-hoes; the slide, or scuffle
hoe with a light frame or shoe to guide it (and
several useful attachments)—especially good for
the very small garden, where there isn’t quite
enough work for the regular wheel hoe outfit;
the combination disc and wheel hoe, which not
only cuts off all weeds, but breaks up the crust
at the same time; and the hand wheel “pulver-
izer,” designed to use after spade or fork just as
the harrow is used after the plow. Don’t wait
till garden time; get the catalogues now and
order any of these you can use to advantage.
Reconstruction in the Flower Beds and Borders
MAYBE you've sort of felt it your patriotic
duty to rather let the flower beds take
care of themselves the last year or two. If so,
brush up! There have been a number of fine
new things. Look over the two March numbers
of GarpDEN Macazine for 1917 and 1918, if you
want a complete summary to make your selec-
tions from.
Plan now to make changes. Are all your flower
beds satisfactory? If not, you can at least lay
?em out now on paper the way youd like to
have them. Perennials that have been in the
same place several seasons will do all the better
for being changed. Don’t wait till you can
attempt to do everything at once.
Order nursery stock and summer plants early:
Even last year local florists were surprised at
the un-anticipated late demand for flower seeds
and plants, for which there was not time to
wait for nursery delivery. Stocks of many
things are low because of coal restriction, and
because of labor shortage. The wise gardener
will order plants early this year. Shipped later,
of course, whenever he is ready for them.
Pick out the “trimmin’s” for the garden:
Do you fully realize how much of the general
effect of the lawn and flower garden may be
due to tasteful selection of a few “‘accessories”’?
A lawn seat; a bit of wire fencing; artistic plant
supports; a simple but appropriate bird bath; etc.,
etc., may give just the finishing touch that lifts
the whole out of the commonplace and furnishes
attractive individuality! Now is the time to
study over these things, and fit them into your
plans on paper.
For the Greenhouse and Frames
FLOWER seed for spring bloom inside, such
as Stocks, Clarkia, etc.; plants like Helio-
trope, Paris Daisies, Begonias, etc.; long-season
plants for next winter, such as Cyclamen, Ar-
disia, Primroses, Gloxinia; vegetables for early
starting, such as cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower,
beets, onions (Spanish types), and celery;—
order these things without further delay, even
if you are not yet ready to send in the order for
flower and vegetable seeds for outdoor sowing.
Remember there’s glass to be fixed every
spring. After winter snows, and winter storage,
and freezing and thawing, there’s bound to be
some fixin’ up to do in February and March.
Don’t get caught without the materials again.
For the Fruit Garden
AVE you got enough fruit on the place ?
-4 If so, you deserve a medal for being a
rare exception to a general rule. Chances are
you haven’t. Now is the time to look into it,
and plan where you can put some more. Grapes,
dwarf apples, pears or plums, cane fruits, can all
be ‘tucked in” here and there, even if the place
is small, or well filled. Study over your plan,
and see where there is room to fit in the kinds of
fruit you haven’t got, or need more cf.
JANUARY, 1919
No Waiting for Spring Thaws
Before Setting these Plants
ERE at The Terraces the climate
is cold enough to ripen all hardy
plants, and to keep them dormant
until early spring. Yet the ground
is in such condition that
We Dig and Ship Fresh Plants
direct from the ground; there is no
need for cold storage or waiting for
spring thaws. It is an ideal time
for setting Hardy Plants along the
Pacific Coast, in the South, and
other mild sections.
My collection of Iris, Phlox, Holly-
hocks, Michaelmas Daisies, Even-
ing Primroses, and a host of other
plants, includes only the rarest and
most desirable varieties.
I pay postage or express charges to any part of the United States.
My Special Catalogue will be sent free to
all Reeater rs of Garden Magazine who ask for it.
CARL PURDY Box A, Ukiah, Cal.
ev lak TT’ S
| For Dark, Shady Places
Plan NOW to get ready to
plant your native ferns,
plants and bulbs early in
. the spring. Early plant-
ray, ae ing brings best
ram: \ie results.
\ = Send for descrip-
tive catalogue of over
80 pages. It’s FREE.
EDWARD GILLETT
3 Main Street, Southwick, Mass.
Gisdiolus Enthusiasts :
You Simply Must Have
| PRINCE OF WALES |
N The gladiolus beautiful, color a clear,
N glorious, shimmering apricot salmon melt- \
N ing to a throat of the sweetest yellow. The
N Ophelia Rose of the gladiolus world. \
N It is invariably selected by visitors as N
\ the most striking and magnificent color Jj
N combination in my gardens. N
N Prince of Wales is extremely early with N
N large flowers on a tall, strong spike and is N
N a rapid multiplier; ¢his with its incom-
N
\ parable color gives a flower of singular \
N charm. There are many white, pink, yel- N
>
N Jow and red gladioli but this is the one and J
N only salmon. -Awarded a First Class Cer-
N tificate at Haarlem, Holland. N
N I believe that I have the largest true N
N stock of this variety in America and al- N
N though within the last two years this has N
N sold as high as $1.50 he bulb, I can offer JN
\ it at the very reasonable price of 25 cents N
N apiece for strong flowering size bulbs, $2.50 J
\ per dozen, five for $1.00, postpaid.
\ RAYMOND M. CHAMPE N
N Walled Lake, Oakland County, Michigan N
>»
LiL ddddddddddddidddsddddddddddddddsdddddddddddsdddidddddsaa N
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
179
a -
~\
<<
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\
“
OBRLEAD YTS BELLE
Gj
N
S
PERE MT DEEL RAL EE BY SOR OLE RE PETER Rt SORE Nod
WS
send Early
for Our Catalogue
HE idea in suggesting that you send early for the
catalogue is because with the war over, there is go-
ing to be a wonderful demand for seeds of all kinds.
The world war has greatly reduced the supply. Those
who, during the war, have found out the economies,
not to mention the genuine pleasure of vegetable gar-
dening, will be planting more seeds than ever.
N
S
\
\
The returning soldiers will be taking up their garden-
ing again; adding their demand. Asa natural rebound ~
from the depressing thoughts of war, flowers will
be planted as never before. Which in turn, will mul-
tiply their use. .
“\
SN
S
WN
Therefore, send for your catalogue early; so you can
order your seeds early. You will then be reasonably
sure of securing the ones of your choice, before the
necessarily somewhat limited stock is exhausted.
Send 35c. for the catalogue. With $5.00 purchase of
seeds, the 35c. will be promptly refunded
Tae SHERMAN T. BLAKE CO.
a Ou, oe SACRAMENTO STREET
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
Royal Seed Establishment Sole Agents West of the
READING, ENGLAND
iy
G
As
eas
\N
S
WN
WINTER, SON & CO.
64- oo eee oueeEt
Sole ee East of the
y Mountains
Rocky Mountains
ANDORRA-GROWN
SECA DE OL REIS
SO
=
Cultivate Your Garden
the “PERFECTION”? Way
The “Perfection” eu ei ator kills weeds,
aerates the soil, c ves moisture. Can
Any of e adju eed, ma and anybody For Street or Lawn
Annie cee can work it. awa ee sian fu il fie tails Onn abi li ity aan pply trees of the
$3. 50 h i oa tisfaction guar highest qualit ailed
No. 1, Sac. money refunded by He) stopp ge of for el ren ‘shi ip-
ADs. acwith, ith Evo discs ° ae LEONARD SEED CO. pear se ere grown
knives, will Sane rows 9 226-230 West Kinzie St. y
to 11 ee ie ae Chicago, Illinois Andorra
Nurseries
Wm. Warner Harper, Prop.
Suggestions for Effective
Planting on request.
- with fou Se sHen,
7, a and 894 neh kn
Box
Chestnut Hill
Phi
la., Penna.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, loo
180 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
(ee
INA
: Kunderd’s Wonderful
New Ruffled Gladiolus
are the most beautiful in the world. No
others like them, none nearly so beautiful.
Finely illustrated 52-page catalogue
free for the asking. It describes nearly
300 varieties, all of our own production and
most of them obtainable only from us. It
also contains the most complete instruc-
tions on the care and culture of Gladiolus
ever published. Let us send you a copy.
Address the originator of the Ruffled Gladiolus.
-A. E. KUNDERD
GOSHEN, IND., U. S. A.
nic
Evergreen
Bittersweet
Euonymus radicans vegetus
A lovely climber, adaptable to all loca-
tions; unsurpassed for covering trellises,
walls or stumps. Rich green all the year,
with crimson berries in winter. Can
be planted at any time.
1st size, 50c each; $5 per dozen
2nd size, 75c each; $8 per dozen
3rd size,'$1.50 each; $15 per dozen
Adolf Miiller »2&sts]7f
Norristown,Penna._,
ll
ve should mow your own
lawn. Ifyou must have a
new mower, get the lightest
running mower you can buy Af
At
Hardware
Dealers and
eedsmen
We Specialize in Bearded Irises
SEND FOR LIST
THE GLEN ROAD IRIS GARDENS
GRACE STURTEVANT, Prop.
Wellesley Farms Mass.
DAHLIAS
SP 9 Paeony flowered Cactus, Show, and Decorative varieties
in all colors, best varieties, long stems, field grown
roots. 10 roots, $1.50; 25 roots, $2.50.
JOHN C. DAVIS
77 South Avenue Rochester, N.Y.
OSES
of NewCastle
Ra\ are the hardiest, easiest growing, freest-
K-23, \SX blooming rose plants in America. Always
SWZ ays Posen reo roots in the fertile soil of
= Ky New Castle. e are expert Rose growers
—B/ and give you the benefit of a lifetime expe-
rience. Our list the most select in America—
embraces every desirable Rose now in culti-
vation. An immense stock at right prices.
Our rose book for 1919,
“ROSES OF NEW CASTLE’’
tells you how to make rose growing a success. It is
the most complete book on rose culture ever pub-
lished. Elaborately printed in actual colors. Gives
information and advice that you need. Send for
your copy of this book today—a postal will do.
HELLER BROS CO., Box 121, New Castle Ind.
Me
om
nh
ERE’S a booklet that answers the many ques-
tions which present themselves to the thou-
sands of home owners and home builders when
laying out their grounds. To possess it is like
having the advice of expert landscape gardeners
right at hand. Its 80 pages are beautifully illus-
trated with 102 sketches of plans, groupings, and
valuable information about planting. It’s free.
A Memorial Peace Tree
The greatest event of the world’s history ought
to be commemorated. We will do ourshare by sup-
plying a tree at cost (about one-half usual catalog
price). The Maidenhair tree of Japan lives a thou-
sand years, $1.00 or an oak $2.00. Both guaranteed.
JANUARY, 1919
Winter Protection for Roses
Nye’ the ground was well frozen, I spread
a six-inch layer of leaves over the entire
bed. After Christmas, I bought a wagon load
of Christmas trees for twenty-five cents. I laid
the longest trees down the long sides of the
bed and the rest right across them; in this way,
there was not so much weight upon the Rose
bushes as to break their branches. These trees
served the purpose of protection perfectly. On
the one hand, they were heavy enough to
break the frost and keep the sun from harming
the Rose branches; on the other hand, they
were light enough to admit a free circulation
of air. Of course, it would not be desirable
to have their resinous needles fall into the soil
of the Rose bed, but the layer of leaves pre-
vents that, and anyway the needles do not
begin to fall until nearly time for the trees to
be removed. I took the trees off the bed on
the 16th of March; and a week later I began
gradually removing the layer of leaves, leaving
the bed clear by the end of the month. I did
not lose a single plant; nor did I ever have so
little dead wood to prune away. And these
were not particularly hardy Roses. Frau
Karl Druschki was the only Hybrid Perpetual
in the bed. The majority were Hybrid Teas,
which are by no means indifferent to zero
weather. And I had also two full-blooded
Teas, Lady Hillingdon and William R. Smith;
we know how little the Teas can stand cold,
but these came through as well as any.
Huntington, Plainfield, N. J. AGnes FRaLEs.
Planting out Lilies-of-the-Valley
INES planted Lily-of-the-valley beds
often present a phenomenon which puz-
zles their owners. The plants bloom nicely the
first year after being set out and it may be three
years before the bed blooms freely again.
‘The reason is simple. When Lily-of-the-
Valley pips are prepared for the market,
the runners are usually removed. The pips
themselves have been grown until they
reached the blooming age, and will naturally
flower in the spring if they are set out in the
fall. The pips will have then exhausted
themselves, and the runners which start may
not develop sufficient strength to produce
blooming pips in their turn for several years. _
If one digs up an old bed and is careful not to
break off the runners, the plants will flower
from the first year on. It is sometimes
supposed that Lilies-of-the-valley once es-
tablished will go on blooming freely for an
indefinite period. This is not true. If the
ground is particularly rich, they will do well
for several years. Otherwise after three or
four years, the blossoms will begin to diminish
in size. hen the bed should be reset.
If one wants to have flowers of the first
quality every season, it is an excellent plan to
start a new bed each year, each old bed being
taken up when three or four years old. If
this is done, there will never be any lack of
flowers suitable for cutting. Individual pips
are best for forcing, but for planting in the
garden better results will be produced when
clumps are purchased, although there is no
assurance that the same interruption in
blooming will not be suffered, when imported
clumps are set out. If the flowers are not
kept removed, Lilies-of-the-valley will often
produce seeds freely in the fall. If this seed
is planted, it will produce flowering plants in
three or four years.
Mass. E. I. FarrincTon.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
January, 1919 ~ THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 181
Facts About the Iris Borer
OOKING over the November Garven
MacazineE I read with interest Miss Gil-
bert’s note on an Iris pest, but if her ob-
servations are of the Iris borer, Macro-
noctua onusta, they differ in some respects from
mine, inasmuch as I have rarely, if ever, seen a
stalk attacked directly, though sometimes one is
undermined. The first sign is ordinarily a small
round translucent or oily looking spot half way up
on an inner leaf of the sheaf, where the larva com-
mences its life work of eating. From this spot
it goes downward eating the tenderest parts of
the leaves and leaving a slimy trail behind,
when near the base so much has been eaten that
a slight pull will bring the central leaves away
from the outer ones and you find a dingy white
larva concealed in them, or the hole into the
thizome, in which case a hatpin is more effectual
than a knife in removing it. The whole rhizome
may be hollowed out by the borer and if it prove
too small it will enter a contiguous one before
crawling into the soil to pupate. At the end of
this stage, the eating stage of its life, it is a big
fat larva, often 1% inches long, dirty white with
more or less of a pink tinge on the back and with
a brown face. It buries itself three or four inches
from its burrow and about an inch deep in the
dirt to pupate. The chrysalis is rather lively
for a pupa, is a shining bright brown and about
an inch long; from it emerges the moth, about
2 inches from tip to tip of the wings when
mounted. It flies at night and is a dull velvety
brown with lighter areas of a pinkish tan so that
it is well camouflaged and seldom is seen. The
under surface of the wings look as if they had
been singed. The eggs are deposited on the
rhizome or on the base of the old leaves. I
agree with Miss Gilbert that the remedy is hand
picking but I should begin much earlier in its
career. It can be killed by pressure when still.
in the leaf. As the signs are unmistakable when
once you learn them I could easily keep in check
this foe if I had but a few dozen plants to inspect
frequently, but as the eggs begin to hatch during
the blooming season when there are many other
things to be done, and continue over a long period,
many of the larvae get full grown among the
thousands of my plants, so in September | take
up any plant that does not look thrifty and search
carefully for borers and pupae,. In my garden
they are most numerous in shady places, where
I imagine the moths find more protection, but
in the field plants it is just chance and where
there is one egg laid there is likely to be more.
The borer does not touch Bulbous Irises, but
the Siberian, Japanese and other Apogons are
mot immune and the pest is far more difficult
to eradicate than from among the Bearded irises.
I am not much troubled by them but I know
of one grower who spreads leaves from the street
trees on his Apogons and burns them over in
the late fall so as to destroy the eggs. Where
a clump is badly infected carbon bi-sulphide
can be applied; that, burning over, and lifting
and cleaning the plants, are the only effective
remedies known to me. If you strip off the old
stalks and leaves to keep the garden neat a good
many willbe removed. But Macronoctua onusta
does not confine its depredations to iris in my
garden; I have not been able to keep large clumps
of Lupins, Columbines, or Bleeding Heart in
good condition for a number of years, in fact, in
looking back I realize that I lost my pet plants
of Aquilegia chrysantha long before I found any
trouble in the Iris and I think in my repeated
attempts to have a showy clump of Dicentra
spectabilis 1 may have introduced it in the large
lants that I bought.
RYdllesley Farms, Mass. Grace STuRTEVANT.
Evergreens and
Norway Maples
Garden Magazine readers de-
light in working out charming
effects through planting Ever-
greens of varying foliage. No
place is too small for its group
of cheerful Evergreens. Use the
slow-growing species for bor-
dering the walk, screening the
basement wall and in front of : : Ne
the fast-growing sorts. Tie Sy Bearers mals Ciao Onc
9 @
J.G.HARRISON & SONS PROPRIETORS
“THE WORLD’S GREATEST NURSERIES”
has an immense stock of Evergreens ready for immediate shipment. These trees have
been grown under expert care with plenty of room for full individual development. We
dig them carefully so as to retain the root ball as shown in the picture above. The en-
tire root system is wrapped in burlap. This prevents exposure of the tender rootlets
add assures the success of your planting. These precautions are taken without extra
charge to you.
We have a great block devoted to Norway Maples. They are splendid specimens with
well-shaped tops and close-knit root systems. Y
as a 5 Any size you need, from 7 ft. high up to 6 inches Li
caliper. y,
We also supply Dwarf and Standard Fruit va
Trees and Small Fruits of all kinds. a
Send to-day for our 1919 Catalogue » ae
and Special Price List. Planting 7 ae
time will soon be here.
Harrisons’
Nurseries,
Box 56,
Berlin, Md. yt +
es
Norway Maple—King of Shade Trees
DWARF APPLE TREES 1D eta en .
DWARF PEAR TREES ‘Hill’s Evergreens Grow
DWARF PLUM TREES ee ee Wy ; Beautify your home. Plant Hill’s Evergreens.
BSS Ses ae PRIME. oct npiionnpaastc elec, Paresioy
DWARF PEACH TREES 4
_, est—quality considered. Don’t risk failure—
Catalogue Free
et Hill’s Free Evergreen Book. Write to-day
Expert advice /vee/
THE VAN DUSEN NURSERIES.
C. C. McKAY, Mer. Box G, Geneva, N. Y.
34] D. Hill Nursery Co., Evergreen Specialists
Box 1064 Duniee, Ill.
IS OUR MOTTO
When in need of Reliable Nursery Stock remember that we have it.
Our prices are always reasonable. Our service is prompt.
Catalogue for the asking.
THE BAY STATE NURSERIES
678 Adams Street North Abington, Mass,
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
182 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JANUARY, 1919
YOU can GROW better ae
7,
“
On
z
than you Buy at the Market
Fruits are food, and right in your own garden you [a 4s 7
can raise most of the fruit you need for the table =) sooaa aa
and for preserving: and it will be better and cheaper
than what you buy at the market.
Dwarf Apple and Pear Trees
can be planted in the smallest garden with the certainty
of success. We offer a dozen varieties of apples (including
Baldwin, Banana, Duchesse, Grimes, Yellow Transparent
and other good sorts); a score of pears (Bartlett, Clapp,
Duchesse, L. Bonne, Seckel, are samples); all sturdy
stock, usually bearing two years after planting. Com-
plete list is given in
Apple, 6 years old, 6% feer
Storrs G Harrison Co. tall, bore 82 apples in 1918,
Book of Fruits and Seeds (65th Annual Edition)
for home gardens and commercial orchards, for vegetable and flower growers.
192 pages freely illustrated. Sent on request toany one. Free. ™
Ue STORRS & HARRISON CO., Box 714, Painesille, Ohio iF
TANT) GU ACODEDASAAOUUD ODED PDEA UA GUCVEU DUD UOT CDDCODETADADS COUT CUP ECCT CCON ECCT COE
© “When it
comes to —
Greenhouses
come to
Hitchings & Co.
Send for Catalogue
NEW YORK BOSTON
1170 Broadway 49 Federal St.
SUE UCC rears IE a: TE)
DEPENDABLE STOCK
ROCK BOTTOM PRICES
Gladiolus Peace, white, per 100 - $2.50
Empress of India, black red - - 2.00 |
Princepine, rich crimson, = = - 2.50
Pink Perfection, finest Pink - - 2.75
Schwaben, strong yellow - = = - 2.50
Our carefully selected seeds, bulbs and perennial plants are
among the best known in the seed trade. Hundreds of florists
throughout the country have used our productions for years.
We offer you the same strains and they should please you.
Some of our offerings are sure to fit in your garden scheme. We
will be glad to consult with you. Ask your florist, he knows us.
Dwarf Yellow Transparent
TITELARIRU PRP NIND PUDTATINIONINNORNINRUDERTRNDDDRN RO RITRENDRORNNDONRNIDONORDN DDE ONONODRDOO DD 603
The New Edition of
“Choice and Rare Hardy Plants’
will be ready for mailing on February Ist. In addition to the
many extraordinary kinds offered in the last issue, it wi!l de-
scribe quite a number of unusual hardy plants not obtainable
elsewhere in this country. Every plant we sell is guaranteed
true-to-name. Learn all about the best hardy plants which
ideal soil and climate, plus human skill can produce by re-
questing your copy of ‘“‘Choice and Rare Hardy Plants.”
Sit
3)
Make Y our Garden Gay
With Hardy Phloxes
Of all our hardy plants none are more
effective than the Phloxes for midsummer
blooms.
We will send you a collection
of splendid plants, that should furnish many gor-
geous blooms—red, pink, white, purple—in mid-
summer if the plants are set early thisSpring. Think
of it! The biggest bargain of the season!
Ten plants, assorted varieties, $1.
Sent postpaid anywhere in the U. S.A.
Our new Catalogue of Perennials, Roses, flowering
Shrubs, Evergreens, Shade and Fruit Trees, con-
tain many special offers of value to planters. Send
for it to-day.
BAIRD & HALL
Althea Park Troy, Ohio
Mailed Free on Request
Write for it To-day =
WOLCOTT NURSERIES, Jackson, Mich.
SELL YOUR SPARE TIME
We will pay you well for all you have—every spare hour can mean
money—by securing new subscribers to the World’s Work, Country
Life, and The Garden Magazine. Write to Circulation Dept.
Doubleday, Page & Company, Garden City, New York
LECTURES ON GARDENING
Write for catalogue to
Ralph E. Huntington Painesville, Ohio
School of Horticulture for Women
AMBLER, PA.
Can offer 15 distinct lectures on flower and vegetable gardening.
All are unique—absolutely practical for the amateur. Can give
hundreds of references. Satisfaction guaranteed. Special rates
to Garden Clubs.
Apply for particulars
MAURICE FULD 7 West 45th Street, New York
s
i Ae re : az sith
i z Paiste ane Re ene Ee “U.S. A.” - Also the new group,
i ENO VUE O4 (ROWS, WAGES aap CTT 2) = ‘The Ten Sea Lions.” The price of
Your Garden Can Be As Lovely as This satisfactory “People’s Orchids” for the public BY fhe Mili areanne heee tie es A
From Early Spring Till Frost = over a dozen years and thousands of people from = $2.60 for 1919 and the Billionaire to
Wagner Free Blooming Plants, put into your ground early this Maine to New Zealand are “glad” I have. That | $ 2. eee corkine new novelties
spring, will make your garden an ever-glowing jewel of color. is what they tell me. I have harvested, in good lB) 5.00. g
Yo enjoy the first spring flowers, plan now and plant early. condition, the best lot of bulbs I ever had and if = iInmy I9I9 free catalogue.
Wagner Plans and Wagner Plants will give you a full summer eat 2 : A 2
of continuous blossoms. you will be patient until about Jan. 1st I will send EB
Write to-day for Wagner’s Catalogue No. 115 of flowers, bulbs, you, for the asking, way descriptive catalogue. E Geo. L. Stillman
shrubs, evergreens, roses, perennials, etc., for early spring planting. I have some fine new things. Something about C Dahlia S Ate
2 G = anlla Specials
WAGNER PARK NURSERIES re oe too. oe A a mention the |
Nurserymen Florists Landscape Gardeners EAE ELS) Oulce ne acortess. EB Westerly, Rhode Island, Box C-9.
Box 15 SIDNEY, OHIO
NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS
We do not acknowledge receipt of subscriptions
unless specially requested to do so. If the sub-
scription is new, the receipt of the first copy is evi-
dence that your subscription has been properly
entered—if a renewal, the date on the wrapper will
indicate the new expiration. This is one means of
conserving and helps the already congested mails.
Gladioli
GEO. S. WOODRUFF, Box G.
Independence, Iowa
i anteater an!
AAA
AATCC REET
Register now for entrance in January, r919—Prac-
tical and theoretical instruction given. Diploma
awarded for successful completion of two years
course. Short Spring courses. Increasing de-
mand for women trained in Horticultural work.
Fruit, flower and vegetable culture, poultry,
bees, preserving, etc. Catalogues sent on
application to
Elizabeth Leighton Lee, Director,
Mics
AAT
DAHLIAS
Of Distinction
You surely will want one of my
new $10.00 dahlias for 1919. The
LA
:
=
a
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
JANUARY, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Round About the Home Plot
(==" This feature of the GarpEN MAGAZINE
is designed to meet the needs of those people who
are interested in keeping a few chickens, bees, etc.,
purely as amateurs. Hundreds if not thousands
of our readers have, or should have, a small flock
of fowls to supply the home table with unquestion-
ably fresh eggs and an occasional chicken or fowl.
Such flocks effect many economies not merely as
just mentioned but by the utilization of table scraps,
kitchen waste, vegetable tops, etc., by the application
of their droppings to growing crops and by the
destruction of insects when it 15 feasible to allow
them liberty. Bee keeping has, of course, a more
limited scope; but no hobby that we know of 15 so
easily adapted to limited areas or 1s so fascinating
whether the object be honey production, queen rearing,
or the study of insect habits—not to speak of the
relationship to the fruit crop. Readers are invited
to ask questions and to send the editor short personal
experiences and comments so the department may
be made as helpful and personal as possible.
Proper Care of Poultry Manure
When properly handled poultry manure is
richer than other manures, first, because the food
is generally richer being largely grain, insects, and
other small animals; second, because the excretion
which corresponds to the urine of the larger do-
mestic animals is mixed in a semi-solid form with
the manure so is not so subject to loss as if
liquid. For these reasons poultry manure is
usually rich in nitrogen and phosphoric acid but
relatively poor in potash, though even of this
it may contain a larger percentage than do
other animal manures. The above points con-
cern only the manure unmixed with straw or
other bedding material which, of course, serves
as an absorbent.
As too often neglected and improperly handled
poultry manure ferments quickly and loses its
strength in consequence, the chief losses being
nitrogen in the form of ammonia which rapidly
passes into the air. As nitrogen is the most
expensive plant food to buy and the most im-
portant in the production of leaf crops such as
cabbage, spinach, and lettuce every care should
be taken to prevent waste. It has been found
that land plaster, acid phosphate, or super-
phosphate plaster, are excellent to scatter on the
droppings not merely because they absorb mois-
ture but because they combine with and thus
hold the soluble nitrogen compounds. ‘In the
group of simple absorbents which do not chemi-
cally combine are dry earth, powdered dry muck
and dry old sawdust. If these and the previously
mentioned materials be scattered over the drop-
pings each day the combining and drying will
be far better than if the applications are made
less frequently. Daily cleaning and storing of
the droppings in dry quarters will also not only
favor keeping but will maintain a purer atmos-
phere in the poultry house. During the cold
months the droppings should be stored under
cover but during the growing season they may be
applied daily to plants that need a little stimula-
tion. They are especially useful in the growing
of onions, espectally if applied as a top dressing
after the plants are two or three weeks old.
Water in Cold Weather.—It is a good plan
during cold weather to have the water slightly
warmed for the fowls. This helps in egg pro-
duction because the fowls don’t have to raise
the temperature of the water they drink to that
of their bodies, thus saving food. Simple warm-
ing apparatus may be bought from keepers of
poultry supplies, and from many seedsmen,
or they may be made at home by enclosing
a “night lamp” in a box beneath the water
“fountain.”
Sure Death to Mites in Poultry Houses.—
While kerosene is generally used for killing mites
it is not as effective as it should be because it
kills only those creatures and eggs that it hits.
Those that escape quickly re-populate the place.
Kerosene does not work into the cracks well
enough. A better remedy is a plumber’s gasolene
torch. The flame being produced by pressure
may be directed into cracks or corners that kero-
sene cannot reach. It will kill immediately
but not endanger the premises unless, of course,
it 1s kept too long in one spot, or. is directed
against straw or other quickly inflammable
material. Its application takes no longer than
does that of kerosene.
Cull Out Inferior Fowls.—In every flock are
fowls it will never pay to keep. The food they
eat is mostly wasted. How may they be recog-
nized? Notice first the roosters. The broad
chested, full tailed, erect standing, bold, strong
beaked ones with the hearty voices are the safe
ones to keep. They not only advertise their
own vigor but give promise of sturdy progeny.
But the long-shanked, thin beaked, narrow
chested, droop and _ scragele-tailed, peaked
looking fellows that never crow with any appar-
ent enjoyment are the weaklings. The hens
and pullets show the same characteristics, not so
prominently perhaps but still clearly enough to
separate them from their more desirable sisters.
They are also weaklings. Both they and their
inferior brothers are undesirable for breeders
or feeders. They can neither be made to produce
a fair supply of eggs or weight of meat. The
sooner they are manufactured into potpie, stew
or soup the better. For the purse and the pro-
geny of the flock as a whole it’s no use lavishing
kindness or feed on them. They simply can’t
make an adequate return.
What is true in such a case is just as true in
the improvement of fowls where no new blood
has been introduced for several years. And it
applies to egg laying habits as well as to flesh
forming. So every two or three years a new
male, preferably a cockerel, should be introduced
from some bred-to-lay strain of the same variety
of fowl so as to improve the “blood.” Of
course, where one is merely growimg fowls for
the eggs they lay no male is necessary. Also
where baby chicks are reared neither cocks nor
hens are needed as the chicks may be raised by
hand.
Unless there is a special reason for retaining
the male at the end of the breeding season he
may be used as pot-pit or stew. This will save
feeding him for eight to ten months for no useful
purpose, but rather the reverse. For if eggs are
to be stored in water glass in the flush season for
use in the fall and early winter when the hens
never lay well, the rooster is,a menace to best
results. Eggs laid by fowls kept apart from the
male store more safely than do those from hens
not so kept.
Remarkable Career Ended.—Pegey the Rouen
duck owned by Mrs. Isaac W. Bannister of Veron-
na, New Jersey, died recently. She was famous
for having laid 325 eggs, a record which is 10
eggs more than the famous $10,000 Leghorn hen,
Lady Eglantine.
iy
wy
A good orchard has
always been an asset to
the owner. It is worth more
to-day and will be still more
valuable next year and for
many years to come. The
price of good fruit is high and
is going higher.
Planting of new orchards and up-
keep of old orchards has been neg-
lected on account of war-time de-
mands and conditions. There is also
a growing appreciation of the health
and food value of fruit.
The biggest profit is in supplying
local markets, and the farmer who
starts an orchard now and gives it
the little care and attention it needs
will have an income producer when
farm crops have fallen off in price.
Tf you have only a small piece of ground,
you can make it produce a surprising amount
of fruit at little expense and trouble. Fresh,
ripe fruit from your own garden will be a
big help on the grocery bill anda source of
great satisfaction. Don’t put it off another
year.
Let Us Show You How
to Grow Quality Fruit
Send To-day for New Free Fruit Book.
It tells where, when and what to plant in
your section, gives planting distances and @
descriptions of the best varieties of apple,
peach, pear, cherry, plum, apricot, quince,
grapes, bush fruits and strawberries.
NEOSHO
NURSERIES Co.
NEOSHO, MO.
Successors to Wm. P. Stark Nurseries
When you become our valued customer we supply —
concise, complete, reliable information on the care
of your trees and‘plants. We keep in touch with
you so as to help you to secure growing satisfaction.
We have no agents and pay no commissions to any
one, but sell direct-from-nurseries only. Start now
by mailing the coupon below.
See book in coupon. A complete, reliable, up-to-date guide to fruit
growing. 90 pagesand pictures. Price roc.. Money backif not satisfied
Mail this Coupon To-day.
a
| Neosho Nurseries Co,
- Box 31, Neosho, Mo.
Please send book as checked:
i ...-Book of Fruit Trees and Plants fiee.
m= ....‘‘Inside Facts of Profitable Fruit Grow-
i ing’’ (roc. inclosed).
m .-.-- How to Beautify Your Home Grounds.”
i (toc. inclosed).
i
BS
(Please give County and Street or R.F.D. number.)
GES 8 CS 0 0 © 0 a 9 2 ee 0 ee ee ee
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, loo
184
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JANUARY, 1919
BEEMAN
It’s the last word in
power equipment for
truck gardeners—
suburbanites and
small farmers.
It takes the
. place of
\ onehorse
F.0.B.
Factory
It
Cultivates ®
wide rows
andastride
Itdoes
sta-
tion-
It hauls loads. It trots from job to job
under its own power—so that it can do
all the work that formerly required several
stationary engines (up to 4 h.p.)
Ask your dealer for a demonstration. If he does not
handle it, write us for interesting booklet—free.
BEEMAN GARDEN TRACTOR CO.
337 Sixth Avenue South
Minneapolis, Minn.
Round About the Home Plot—Continued
Bee Keeping for Boys
One of the finest hobbies a boy can have is
bee-keeping. It will not only prove interesting
to watch the habits of the insects but it should
provide plenty of pocket money for the average
boy. The first moneyis likely to come in from
the sale of honey; but if Mr. Boy is wide awake .
he will soon want to try some of the more profit-
able and more interesting lines of work such as
dividing and increasing colonies so as to sell
them, or the still more fascinating work of queen-
rearing for sale.
It would be hard to find a place except in the
large cities where bees can not have plenty of
flowers from which to gather nectar. Wherever
Basswood, Catalpa, and Locust trees, Clover of
any kind except the large red, Alfalfa, Buckwheat,
Golden-rod, wild Asters and many other flowers
are abundant the bees will find ample forage.
In fact, about the only unsafe place to start is
where there are not flowers within five miles.
The start does not cost much. Good, strong
colonies in modern hives can usually be bought
in the spring for $5 to gro. Other necessities
such as a bee-veil, a smoker and a feeder cost
only a trifle each. Preferably the colony should
be moved to its new quarters in early spring
because the bees will thus become acquainted
with their new home and not return to the old.
Also a colony then has passed the winter in safety.
In buying always see that there are lots of bees
and larvae in the hive, that there is an energetic
queen and at least a fair supply of honey.
It is always a good plan to have two or more
extra hives with some combs of honey and
“foundation” for other combs so that should the
colony bought suddenly divide there will be a
place ready to house the new swarm. ‘Then,
too, there is always the chance of catching a
stray swarm. Often the neighbors will tell a
boy who is keeping bees where such a swarm has
alighted or where one has taken possession of a
hollow tree, or a cavity between the walls of a
building. Such swarms cost nothing but the
effort to get them, and often they pay well before
the season is over. The writer of this article
visited a place last summer where fifteen or
twenty such swarms had been caught and hived.
Some of them were enticed to enter hives placed
in trees; others were jammed into sheets and
dumped in front of the hives to which inclined
boards served as runways.
It is a good thing to have beginners’ books on
bees and to read the articles in bee and other
magazines; but if the boy can get to some ex-
perienced bee-keeper’s place occasionally and
help the bee-keeper as well as ask questions he
will make better progress. But besides this
he should try to keep his own eyes and mind
open to discover for himself the wonders of bee
life. .One of the most interesting books to read
is by Maurice Maeterlinck. It does not pretend
to be a “practical” book, but it will surely open
the eyes of any boy or girl to the general life
habits of the honey bee.
The country boy may be thought to have the
advantage of the boy in the small town but this
is only a seeming. The boy living where there
are flower gardens has just as good a chance as
the one in the actual country; for bees have
been known to fly more than ten miles for their
supplies of nectar.
The one point usually brought up against bee-
keeping is the bees’ sting! It certainly feels hot
the first time it is presented and there may be
more or less swelling the first few times each
year. But very soon it hurts even less than a
mosquito bite and even where through careless-
ness or wrong management several stings are
received close together the effect is little or noth-
ing because the human body becomes resistant
to the stings. The interest in bee-keeping and
the money to be made will soon make almost
any one forget about the sting.
Breeds of Bees.—In the United States the
German or black bee is commonest. It is hardy,
makes whiter combs than other varieties but is
inclined to be “touchy” so is not the best kind
for the novice to begin with. Cyprians are even
worse. They are not popular on this account.
Not even smoke will subdue them. In distinct
contrast is the Carolina bee—the most gentle
of all. Unfortunately it makes new swarms upon
very slight provocation! Like it the Caucasian
bee, recently introduced into the United States,
is so gentle as to be considered stingless! It has
stings but is slow to anger. Of all the races,
however, the Italian is the most profitable and
satisfactory. It is more gentle than the black
bee, handsomer, having a golden yellow and
black abdomen, an energetic worker and honey
gatherer, active defender of its home against
the bee moth and other enemies but in order to
be carried through the winter it must be well sup-
plied with food and be well protected against cold.
Easy Money! It is often said that in honey
production alone bee-keeping pays better in
proportion to the investment of both money and
necessary time than any other line of rural occu-
pation. The editor would like to have several
short personal experiences showing how amateurs
—people with only a few colonies—have made
bee-keeping pay them.
Hives in Winter.—Unless the hives have been
well painted they may leak during stormy weather
if wintered out of doors. To make sure that all
is well inside, remove the roofs occasionally after
rains and see that things inside are in good con-
dition. If there is a leak either use paint or
putty to close it. Should the cushions or quilts
in the top of the hive be wet replace them with
dry ones. It is a good plan to use two or three
thicknesses of wrapping paper between the layers
of quilts or to place a cushion filled not too full
with any leaves, corn shucks, chaff, cork dust or
other good insulating material. The idea should
be to keep the bees as cozy as possible during the
winter.
Whitewashing the poultry house is excellent
for cleanliness. Use only freshly slaked lime
for this purpose. Never apply it until after the
whole interior has been cleaned and never let
the whitewash or any lime come in contact with
poultry manure because its chemical action robs
manure of its most valuable fertilizing substance
—nitrogen. This is wasted in the air as ammonia. .
At least once a month after thoroughly cleaning
the poultry house spray with kresol as per di-
rections on the bottle. This is a far safer disin-
fectant than carbolic acid and is fully as effective
in cleansing the premises of disease germs.
Spray the interior of the poultry house, es-
pecially the cracks, the roosts and the nest boxes
with kerosene to kill the mites that hide during
the day in such places. At least once a month!
Wash the drinking fountains at least once a
week with boiling water and a stiff whisk broom.
Once a week or perhaps oftener add a few crys-
tals of permanganate of potash to the water as
an internal disinfectant—just enough to give the
water a slight purplish tint.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
et en THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 185
HODGSON?
With the approach of Spring you will want to build that house you have
had in mind, and you will want to build it without having to go through
the bothersome preliminary details that usually accompany building.
The Hodgson Way avoids all this bother and trouble.
First, send for the Hodgson Catalogue. It is replete with photographs
and descriptions of all kinds of bungalows, cottages, garages, play houses,
poultry houses, and many other types. You are offered a choice of many :
sizes and styles, one or more of which will harmonize with the architectural i et ae eee nines é os .
motif of your house or exactly conform to your ae Garden bordered with Box-Barberry. Two-year-old stock was used. Photo taken
ideas of what you need. , three months after planting; plants set four inches apart.
A Distinct Novelty: offered
this Spring for the first time
Box-Barberry is a dwarf, upright form of the familiar
Berberis Thunbergi; it is perfectly hardy, thriving where-
ever Berberis Thunbergii grows. It does not carry wheat
Tf you do not wish to use the house immed- xf rust.
iately, we suggest that you send in your order Box-Barberry lends itself most happily to low edgings
now, and insure prompt delivery when you for formal gardens, when set about 4 inches apart. It also
are ready to have the house put up. i makes a beautiful low hedge when set 6 to 8 inches apart.
To avoid disappointment and future delay he, : The foliage is light green, changing in autumn to dazzling
we suggest that you write for the Hodgson cat- . Ni red and yellow.
alogue right away. ; 1 year, frame-grown $20.00 per 100; $175.00 per 1000
i 2 year, field-grown 30.00 per 100; 250.00 per 1000
E. F. HODGSGN CO. ~ 3 year, field-grown 40.00 per 100; 350.00 per 1000
(50 at 100 rates, 250 at 1000 rates)
Room 228, 71-73 Federal St., Boston, Mass. Available stock limited. Orders filled strictly in rotation received.
6 East 39th St., New York
THE ELM CITY NURSERY ;CO.
Woodmont Nurseries, Inc.
New Haven, Conn. (Near Yale Bowl)
Our Catalogue, now ready, lists a comprehensive assortment of choice
Shade and Fruit-trees, Evergreens (including Taxus cuspidata type),
Shrubs, Vines, Roses, Hardy plants. Catalogue mailed the day your
request ts received.
Aa;
v5
aoe w:
When you have made your selection, send
in your order, and the house already built,
fitted and painted, will be shipped to you in
neat, compact sections that can be erected by
one or two inexperienced men in a day or
two.
NYS
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Sa
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Dog Kennel =I Ngai
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One of the first books about fighting in
ie ORCHIDS
Largest importers and growers of
CAVALRY OF THE CLOUDS OrcHIpS in the United States
Send twenty-five cents for catalogue. This amount will be refunded
on your first order.
Captain Bott tells of the life of the flying LAGER & HURRELL
- 4 . Orchid Growers and Importers SUMMIT, N. J,
officer in France simply and with perfect ae
Cre OPA ATES NPE QNa GU Maps A
ihe TNS Vee! WN Fils FNS a }
Ne
truth. Here is the beginning of the great F, 9
tradition and noble chivalry of the air. arr S —is a book of 112
P. S. This, and McConnell’s vivid “Flying for France” Hardy pages, 30 of which " PRODUCE. QUICK & POSITIVE
are the beginning of the great literature of the air. Plant are full Bete illus- E> E Ss UW LTS
IPA NOs (404) 0
DOUBLEDAY (|)0¥8| GARDEN CITY
PAGE & CO. [GO] NEW YORK
: See natural color). elt
Specialties is really a ee
on the hardy garden, containing
information onyupward of 500
varieties of Peonies (the most
complete collection in existence),
Lemoine’s new and rare Deut-
zias, Philadelphus and Lilacs,
and the Irises (both Japanese
and German) of which I have all
the’ newer introductions as well
as the old-time favorites.
Buist’s 1919 Garden Guide now ready for
mailing—not merely a seed catalogue, but
a practical book of interest to the exper-
ienced gardener and the beginner as well
—tells how to make a kitchen garden
At All Booksellers’. Net, $1.25
supply your table with quality vegetables
of the finest flavor. Right now it’s im-
portant that every garden should be a
real producer. Follow our instructions and
reduce the “high cost of living.”
The London Times recently said
of this woman, winner of the Nobel
prize, “she its among the half dozen
leading, living writers of the world.’”
Miss Lagerlof’s novel,
“THE EMPEROR OF
PORTUGALLIA’’
is the story of a father’s lobe
—a Swedish ‘‘Pére Goriot.’”
Translated by Velma Swanston Howard
Net, $1.50, New leather edition, net, $2.00
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
SEND FOR YOUR COPY TO-DAY—
IT’S FREE
If you have a garden you
should have this book. It tells
you what to plant and how to
cultivate and is free on request.
Write for it NOW.
Free Flower Seeds with Orders of
$0 Cents and Over
Garden lovers who do not have
the Sixth Edition may secure a
complimentary copy if they send me
their name and address.
Bertrand H. Farr
Wyomissing Nurseries Co.
104 Garfield Ave., Wyomissing, Pa.
ROBERT BUIST COMPANY
24 So. Front St. _Phila., Pa.
-
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
186 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JANUARY, 1919
The per cent that will grow is marked on the package
Harris Seeds are the kind that make the garden more productive and the
vegetables more delicious. Bred as carefully as prize live stock on our own
_ Seed Farms five miles from Rochester, Harris Seeds have for years been used
by the largest and most successful market gardeners.
You can get fine results from this pedigree seed because every lot
ts tested and the percentage that will grow is marked on the label. So
you know just how thick to plant.
Send for our free catalogue and learn about our new strains of
Peas, Beans, Beets, Corn, Cauliflower, Tomatoes, Melons, etc. See
why our method of selecting the Seed from the best individual plant
enables you to produce better sized and more deli-
cious vegetables in greater quantities.
Write for the Free Catalogue To-day
It shows how to have a truly successful garden and
enables you to buy direct from the actual grower
at wholesale prices.
Introductory Offer—Free
To every one sending for our Catalogue if you ask we
will send absolutely free one package of our famous
Irondequoit Muskmelon Seed—the big Melons in the
picture,
JOSEPH HARRIS COMPANY
Box 51, Coldwater, N. Y.
DAHLIAS are the wondrous results of years of hybridizing exper-
iments in crossing and recrossing the choicest English, French and
Holland varieties. They are marvelously beautiful in both coloring
and form, have strong stems and are excellent as cut flowers.
660 DERBY STREET
Catalogue Free Jany. Ist. M. G. TYLER : TAN. OREGON
NIGHT’S Fruit Plants X T =: §
have been the Standard for over 30 YEARS. | @ ian I CS is K Ss
Don’t waste time and money with inferior | Bey-sop>)Nae EO Re
stock. $1,000 per acre has been made growing straw- and FLORAL G UIDE 1919
berries and raspberries. YOU can do as well with Pr te —= WRITE Ti
KNIGHT'S PLANTS. Write for FREE catalogue to-day. | ps Bae don out experience a5, the Se
° ° . oldest mail order seed concern and larges' *
David Knight & Son, Box 102, Sawyer, Mich. growers of Inte san other seeds in America.
a 550 acres and 12 greenhouses in best seed grow-
ing section. A large number of splendid new vari-
eties. Our Guide is full of helpful information about
planting, etc.—an invaluable aid to a successful gar-
den. Illustrates and describes leading Vegetables,
Flowers, Farm Seeds, Plants and Fruits. This book,
the best we have issued, is yours absolutely free.
Send for your copy today, before you forget.
JAMES VICK’S SONS
62 Stone Street, Rochester, N. Y.
The Flower City
BONA ea lsm luis al LIME
To Order That PERGOLA
Start planning—right now—for those Home At-
tractions you deferred on account of the war.
Send for our booklets containing over 150 illus-
trations about Garden, House and Home Im-
provements, illustrating the practical way how
we design and construct attractive PERGOLAS, eC TELLS ’ THE TROTH ms
. ith caretu. written descriptions, true 1ilu: ‘ations and conservative
GARDEN-HOUSES, VERANDAS, ARBORS statements, Olds? 1919 Catalog is a true guide and a most valuable
and LATTICE-FENCES. book for everyone needing seeds.
; OLDS’ SPECIALTIES
When writing enclose 10c and ask for alt Seed Potatoes. The new Olds’ White Beauty and ten others, choice
Catalogue of Home Altractions, *‘H-30. Certified stock. Seed Oorn—Wisconsin fancy ear corn. Seed
Oats, Wheat, Barley. DED a SO yuscpnein
tested, high-grade seed, Samples FREE, all field seeds. Buy from
H A R ‘ll M A N N cd S A N D le R S S (2), samples. “Garden Seeds, Flower Seeds, Bulbs, Nursery Stock,
FACTORY OFFICE: 2155 Elston Avenue, CHICAGO aimee h yey a ee AarinaliGatalog.
EASTERN OFFICE: 6 East 39th Street, NEW YORK
L. L. Olds Seed Co. Brars.. S¥8.
Does It Pay?—Here is a report on my garden
for the past season, and while it may not be a
record breaker, it at least set the neighbors
talking. This piece of ground has been under
cultivation only two years, and in the beginning
was nothing but stiff, yellow clay which had been
mined out of some cellar. The first year nothing
would make an impression on it but a pick and
shovel. However, I managed to break it up
and by digging in plenty of stable manure, lime,
and sifted coal ashes, raised a fair crop of vege-
tables the first year. In the fall rye was sown,
and last spring the process of lime, manure, and
ashes was repeated. When it came to digging,
the change was astonishing—no pick nor shovel
was needed, just a common digging fork. I raised
all my own plants with the aid of several cold-
frames and a sunny third story window. Every
foot of ground had to produce from one to four
crops, and a new crop was started before the old
one was out of the way. Most of the work was
done early in the morning and after seven o’clock
in the evening. My reward is as follows: The
finest fresh vegetables all summer for the family
and enough of many kinds put up for winter,
enough of the surplus sold to more than pay
expenses for fertilizer and seeds, health and ex-
perience gained which could not be measured in
dollars and cents, a gold medal awarded by The
National Agricultural Association, and last but
not least—a direct slap at the Kaiser! Space
under cultivation 18 x 64 ft. This includes two
peach trees and two grape vines.
The details of the returns are: UsEp.—Lettuce, $4.2c; Spinach,
$1.15; Beets, $1.95; Radishes, $.50; Swiss Chard, $1.05; Peas, $1.20;
Carrots, $.95; String Beans, $1.50; Lima Beans, $1.00; Tomatves,
$3.80; Onions, $1.20; Egg Plant, $1.55; Early Celery, $2.15; Late
Celery, $10.00; total $32.20. So1p—Lettuce, $3.72; Beets, $.40;
Chard, $.95; Tomatoes, $4.99; Early Celery, $4.16; Ege Plant, $1.15;
Parsley, $.29; Tomato Plants, $1.88; Egg Plants, $.80; Celery
Plants, $.45; Peaches, 6 baskets at $1.75, $10.50; Grapes, $3.00;
total, $32.29, or agrand total of £64.49.
The values are based on the lowest prevailing
market price at the time.—4. 4. Knock, York, Pa.
Should Sweet Corn Be Suckered?—] shall rot
answer this question, but merely put before
the reader the experience I had with a large
patch of sweet corn that was not rid of its
suckers. Always I have been scrupulous to
take the suckers from sweet corn. But this
year the thing got ahead of me, and I letthe
suckers grow. I had the feeling that they would
injure the crop in that they would make the
main ears small, and would delay their matur-
ing. The corn was Golden Bantam. ‘The result
was quite different. Though I cannot attrib-
ute the size of the ears to the presence of the
suckers, I will say that I never gathered a finer
crop of corn than I did from this half-acre
patch. After the main crop had been taken,
what was my surprise to find that two out of
every three suckers had an ear; small, it is
true, but a genuine ear. These developed well
and matured evenly, supplementing the main
crop greatly. I am sure that these innumerable
sucker ears almost doubled the yield of the
patch. In quality, this smaller corn was not
inferior to the corn from the main stalks. It was
small, and not always shapely; but it was corn.
And so I ask, Should we sucker our sweet
corn'—A. Rutledge, Menersburg, Pa.
Larkspurs and Shade.—Has any one else had
an experience with Delphiniums similar to mine?
I have but few plants attacked by the fungus
which blackens the leaves and buds, but occa-
sionally a plant will suddenly decay at the roots.
My plants are placed so that their roots are
shaded by others, and the sun does not reach
them. ‘This is recommended by most authorities
as they claim Delphiniums suffer from drought
if their bases are exposed. My experience seems
to indicate the contrary. Has any one else had .
the same experience'—Gertrude H. Smith, N. J.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
JaANvARY, 1919
P
eR
shrubs.
Cc. H. GORDINIER
= 4x2 size—for Sweet Peas only ..... 1.00
THE GARDEN “MAGAZINE
When Planning for fl
That Garden of Yours
Include the
Skinner System of Watering
WHEN you make out your order for seeds,
do the same for the Skinner System.
One of our Portable Lines, costing so little as
$21.50, not only does away with hose-lugging
and hose-holding, but it waters 2,500 square
feet at a time. :
Waters every part uniformly. _
Waters the roots thoroughly without wash-
ing out a plant.
With half thé work, it undeniably doubles
your garden yield.
These statements we can prove.
Send for Catalogue and Experience Booklet.
Prove it to yourself.
The Skinner Irrigation Co.
Water r Troy
St. Ohio
KINNER
YSTEM -°
We Se
OF IRRIGATION,
GARDEN LABELS
Know when, where and what you planted. Label your garden.
100 wood labels in assortment from the big 12-inch for marking
garden rows to little copper-wired label for marking trees and
Attractively packed with marking pencil 70 cts.,
ost paid.
ait cin
2x2 4x2 3x3 4x3
MakeEvery Seed ount!
NOW FOR THE VICTORY GARDEN !
Peace brings additional responsibilities for increasing
the food supply. Make your plans, order now and
start your flower and vegetable plants:
LET PAPER POTS HELP YOU
Start your indoor garden with them this month:
Use them to sow Peppers, Tomatoes, Egg Plants, etc:
Make every seed produce a plant: per 100 per 1000
2x2 size—for all small Plants...... $ .75 $5.00
6.00
3x3 size—for Tomatoes, Melons,
Mm Cicumberssctcr
4x3 size—for Corn, Beans, etc.....
No increase in prices while present stocks last
Get Our Free Booklet of Garden Helps
Describes quite a number of unusually handy tools as well as
The “'Groquik” Forcers for early gardens. Be sure to write or
order TO-DAY
THE CLOCHE COMPANY
Phone 5615 Barclay
“« 2749 Barclay
A
6.50
7.00
87 WARREN STREET
NEW YORK CITY
}
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning
“Thay, N. Y.
ie
Garden Necessities That Repay You
USHES, plants, vines must have some kind of support and protection in
B order that they may grow most luxuriously. The best for the purpose,
the one that combines beauty in itself as well as proper construction for
endurance, is always the cheapest in the end.
_Trellises and bed guards repay many times over in plants, blossoms and
foliage. The Excelsior Rust Proof Trellis on the end of the porch shown here
not only supports the vines, but is ornamental as well.
the same make—same construction and materials. These
187
The bed guards are of
RUST PROOF
Trellises and Bed Guards
are made of heavy, tough, springy steel wires,
which are held at every intersection in the
viselike grip of the Excelsior Steel Clamp, a
patented feature. AFTER making, the whole
fabric is galvanized by the Excelsior Process,
that not only makes it rust proof, but thor-
oughly and completely solders it into
onesrigid mass.
These trellises won’t buckle,
droop or sag. Winds and shock
have no effect onthem. They can
be taken down and used over, and
will last for years.
. To insure getting full value for your
money, ask your hardware dealer for these
products. We also make Excelsior fences,
tennis fences, tree guards, gates, and similar
garden necessities. We will cheerfully send
catalog B on request.
WRIGHT WIRE CO.
WORCESTER, MASS.
Offers a wide choice of objects, from simple fern dishes and ,
bud vases to impressive jardinieres and plant stands, Its
predominating characteristic is refined elegance in designs and
colors. A post card request will bring you the ‘Moss Aztec”.
catalogue and name of nearest dealer.
DISTINCTIVE FERN PAN $1.50
is square with
separate liners
measuring 7x7
inches by 4 inches
deep. Order as
No. 495.
PETERS & REED
POTTERY
COMPANY
So. Zanesville, O.
Moss Aztec Pottery
tg) =
TOWNSEND’S TRIPLEX
The Greatest Grass Cutter on Earth
—Cuts a Swath 86 Inches Wide
Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, the
TRIPLEX MOWER will mow more lawn ina day than
the best motor mower ever made, cut it better and at
a fraction of the cost.
Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, it will
mow more lawn than any three ordinary horse-drawn
mowers with three horses and three men.
Send for catalogue illustrating all types of
TOWNSEND MOWERS
S. P. TOWNSEND & CO.
23 Central Ave. Orange, N. J.
The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
188.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JANUARY, 1919
Yj
with children.
breeding.
Waddie
Ye
(3) A splendid bitch already served by our magnificent stud.
The “ONE MAN”? Dog
Classiest, bravest dog bred. THE popular dog of the times for home, farm, country, auto, children. Splendid companion,
romping playmate, matchless watch and stock dog. Endorsed as unsurpassed all round hunter by Roosevelt and
Keenly intelligent, steadfastly faithful, deeply affectionate and true as steel.
VIBERT ATREDALES ARE SPECIALLY SELECTED for brains and brawn, raised under 1000 fruit trees, healthy, hardy,
absolutely free Jrom distemper, of which we never had a case. CLASSY, COBBY, UPSTANDING STOCK, thoroughbred,
pedigreed, registered, certified.
The Kind of a Dog They Turn in the Street to Look At
WE OFFER: (1) Healthy, hardy, active, thoroughbred, rolypoly, comical, loving puppies, male, female or unrelated pairs. (2) Grown or partly grown male or female or unrelated pair for
i : j We guarantee prompt shipment, safe delivery anywhere on earth, sincere dealings and satisfaction.
AT STUD, Brainy, Brawny, Noble, Upstanding INTERNATIONAL CHAMPION Kootenai Chinook (the only American bred international champion Airedale stud in the world). Fee
$25. Simply express your bitch to Weston, N. J., she will be bred and returned. Descriptive illustrated booklet and price list on request. Also stud card.
VIBERT AIREDALE FARM, Box 5B, Weston, New Jersey
SNAAAAAAAAAAAAAANAANANAAAAAA
RS |EGGdWWSA§dMAMA AA MI MAMAN NARA ANADND
Clean minded, self respecting, dependable
SSS SSAA AANA
Rainey.
Phone Bound Brook 397
S NAAN MNONOM AMAA NINVWIIBINN NHN MM AAAANHHIAITTINSS NY
I~ RHODES
HE only pruner
made that cuts from
both sides of the limb
and does not bruise the
bark. Made in all styles
and sizes. All shears de-
livered free to your door.
Write for circular and prices
$4.13 per section e
Lie
7 ft. long x 5 ft. high
2 ft. Gin. long x 5 ft. high (gute)
cover postage,
4
The original
chemical closet. More
comfortable, healthful, conveni-
ent. Takesthe place of all outdoor
toilets, where germs breed. Be }
ready for the long, cold winter.
Have a warm, sanitary, comfort-
able, odorless toilet right in the
house anywhere you wantit. Don’t
goout in the cold, A boon to
invalids,
GUARANTEED ODORLESS
The germs arekilled by a
chemical in water in the
container. Empty once a
month as easy as_ashes,
Oloset guaranteed. Thirty
days’ trial. Ask for catalog
end price.
ROWE SANITARY MFG. CO.
5301 6th St., Detroit, Mich,
Ask pene Ro - San Washstand-«
Hot and Cold Running Wat
Without Plumbing. af
sTE DIUMBING
If "TAKES ONE MINUTE WITH ~ my
“PLUMBINE EMERGENCY CEMENP
(To repair burst Waterpipes, Tanks,,
Sinks, Lavyatories, etc.
4% POUND PACKAGE TO YOUR HOME SENT ON RECEIPT OF 25c. IN STAMPS.
STONE TAR PRODUCTS COMPANY
97 SOUTH_SIXTH STREET. BROOKLYN. N. Y.
Albert FE t Set atee
ee OFrtTUNEe _ pevbleay:
* Brooder for 60 to 100 chicks
HE health and productiveness of poultry are largely
determined by the care the fowls receive, proper ven-
tilation and comfortable housing.
Hodgson poultry houses are scientifically designed and
are constructed with a complete knowledge of poultry
“BUFFALO” PORTABLE FENCING SYSTEM
Enables you to make any size yard or runway desired. Can be moved to other locations at will. Prices as follows:
8 ft. long x 2 ft. high
6 ft. long x 2 ft. high
Above prices are for orders consisting of six sections or more and are F. O. B. cars Buffalo, N.Y. Bestarticle on the
market for young chicks, ducks, geese and other small fowl and animals, also for enclosing small gardens in season.
Place your order to-day. You will be well satisfied. Send check, money order or New York Draft and we willsend
you the greatest article for poultry or dog kennel purposes. Booklet 67AA describing this system will be mailed you upon request with six cents to
BUFFALO WIRE WORKS CO. =
NNUAL
No. 4 Poultry House for 60 hens—2 units
$2.20 per section
(1.76 * Ob
BOERS ae Sil a
467 Terrace, BUFFALO, N. Y.
(formerly Scheeler’s Sons)
Have You a Complaint?
During the past five years we received 7
complaints out of the many hundreds of
Aten Sewage Disposal Systems we installed.
Look over your Aten Sewage Disposal System NOW;
if it isn’t perfectly odorless and thoroughly effective;
if it is in any way causing you expense or trouble, or if
it is unpleasant to the sight, TELL US! If it is work-
ing smoothly and steadily, and satisfactorily answering
your sewage problems, THEN TELL THE MAN WHO
HASN’T ONE and we'll gladly send him Booklet 11
explaining it to him.
ATEN SEWAGE DISPOSAL CO.
286 Fifth Avenue New York
_ MORE FRUIT fur tice'gom gan Jose
service }
~ in home and camp*
Measured by every standard, what could be more valuable, more
concretely useful, as well as more delightfully entertaining than Mee
Victrolar
Second only to the actual Saya needs of the body is the i impera-
tive hunger of mind and spirit for their essential ‘‘foods’”—music, litera-
ture, inspiration, education, comfort and laughter. The Victrola is their
tireless servant, bringing to them at any place, any time, the greatest art Bee.
and entertainment of the whole world. Oe
Victrolas by the tens of thousands are in daily use by our ni :
forces on land and sea. In more than 25,000 public schools the Victrola —
is helping to build Young America into a better citizenship. The
Victrola has taught French to our soldiers, wireless to our sailors and
aviators. In millions of homes the Victrola is educating, a
uplifting our mighty democracy.
Send the Victrola to the boys in camp to cheer and 1 gor: chen!
Place it in the home for the benefit and pleasure of old and young alike.
Prize it for its value, its usefulness, its service, as well as for its unlimi-
ted, wholesome pleasure.
There are Victors and Victrolas in great variety from $12 to $950.
Any Victor dealer will gladly demonstrate the Victrola and play any music you wish to hear.
Victor Talking Machine Co., Camden, N. J., U.S. A.
‘Victrola
One of Americas
great contributions
to the advancement
of mankind
Mahogany or oak
Important Notice. Victor Records and Victor Machines
are scientifically coérdinated and synchronized in the proc-
esses of manufacture, and their use, one with the other, is
absolutely essential to a perfect reproduction.
New Victor Records demonstrated at all dealers on the
1st of each mont
“Victrola”? is the Registered Trademark of the Victor
Talking Machine Company designating the products of this
Company only.
Victrola XVII
Mahogany or oak
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, NEW YORK
Victrola VI ~
Ee a
1
Gar dening Unashamed
CES DUNCAN
qa
Ji
2 a eee PRICE
pee eee FEBRUARY, 1919 25¢ A COPY
IG oaks from little acorns
grow—and the little acorn,
in this case. proved to be
ahobby. That hobby was
a flower—The Dahlia—
which I found to be fraught with possi-
bilities, as soon as I learned to look upon
it as something other than an old-
fashioned ‘“‘posey.” For years I grew
Dahlias for my own pleasure. Then I
made my pleasure my business.
Started with 60 Bulbs of
60 Kinds and—no capital!
This was 25 years ago. I was in another line
of business then, growing Dahlias as a side line.
Since my Dahlias always did so much better
than my neighbors’, they soon applied to me for
surplus bulbs. Thus the business started. En-
couraged by this initial success I added 20
more different and new kinds to my collection.
The next year my sales amounted to $72.00—
not much, but enough to encourage me to go on.
Proud of My First
Four-page Catalogue
Because I thought that other Dahlia lovers,
outside of East Bridgewater, would like to know
about my favorites, I issued my first catalogue
in 1895. It was a very modest affair, but it did
the business. Part of the $198.00 worth of
Dahlia Bulbs disposed of that year were sold
through the catalogue. Because the year before,
I had won several prizes at our local fair, I de-
cided to stake my Dahlias against the best in
the country. The result was that I
Won the First Prize in Boston
at the big show in
m Horticultural Hall.
Since then,
my growing
exhibits
at all the
leading
World’s
Fairs
and Ex-
positions
have al-
ways won
honors of
the highest
degree.
> Dh’ ,
aay
IG. begun hye
§ fi?
Y “fe lies of Qihlual
opt 7% 7808
Two Big Fires Wiped Out
Everything—
When I look back upon the year 1901.
I don’t know whether to think of it as
a disaster or a “blessing in disguise.”
It surely robbed me of all I had, but
also established me on a broader, bigger
basis. First, my warehouse burned.
Later, another fire in the shipping room
caused me a loss of about $6000 worth
of bulbs, but I had an inexhaustible
stock of confidence and a good deal of
experience. Combined with the princi-
ple of square dealings, these factors are
responsible for the fact that I am
Doing Business Now in
the Largest Plant of its
Kind in the World
Five years ago I constructed a storage
warehouse with shipping facilities un-
like any other in my line
of business.
The buildin'g
has a cellar
with 11,700
cubic feet of
storage space,
besides 4680 square feet of floor space. Every-
thing is in“its place, and there is a place for every-
thing. Carefully arranged bins hold the properly
labelled roots of the hundreds of varieties which
I now grow every year. From the middle of
November, when we finish digging the bulbs,
until end of shipping season, the following
spring, this warehouse is the biggest beehive you
ever saw.
Yearly Output of 38 Acre
Dahlia Factory Now 4
Million Dahlia Clumps
Please don’t think I have lost my sentiment
about my flowers when I call my farms a
factory! To me, Dahlias are still and always
will be, objects of cheer and love. But when
you produce them by the millions, in scattered
about lots on a 107 acre farm, it becomes neces-
sary to employ methods of production not un-
like those in big factories.
J. K. Alexander,
27-29 Central Street
From Backyard Gardener to
Dahha King in 25 Years
The Romance of a Modern Business
which, from a hobby, developed into one
of the largest enterprises of its kind
Happy and Busy the Year Around
Who wouldn't be, with hundreds of different
“pets” in as many varieties, in many different
classes. It makes me happy to think that the
Dablia has finally come into its own. It makes
me happy to know that, among my own, are
some of the finest the world has ever seen.
And, it keeps me busy to maintain the high stand-
ard of perfection to which I have raised hundreds
of popular kinds, not counting the everlasting
work it takes to watch my many new hybrids.
Visit My Gardens During
August and September
You'll see a sight never to be forgotten. It'll cause you to
look upon Dahlias with different eyes ever after. My time is
yours on visitors day, and we can’t see all the flowers on one
visit either. So
Let Catalogue Visit You NOW
It will afford you a chance to get posted on Dahlias, before
planting time knocks at the door. You can’t afford to do
without some of my favorites in your 1919 garden. The joy
they'll bring will repay manyfold their small cost and little
labor of growing.
“The Dahha King’
East Bridgewater, Massachusetts
FEBRUARY, I9I19 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 1
\ Frade ik Re. U. S. Pat. Oft)
ee ~—S FOR ONE TREE.
Here is the original Golden
Delicious tree which we pur-
chased for $5,000.00, paying for
ground and tree. There it
stands, on a West Virginia
‘mountain side, enclosed in a
huge, protecting cage.
Golden Delicious
A LONG-KEEPING APPLE, greater in size and finer in flavor than the
most glorious Grimes Golden any tree ever bore. Blessed with a spicy,
aromatic flavor and zest more exquisite than even the finest pear. A yellow apple that can be eaten
in October—yet will keep its indescribable, fine quality and sprightly flavor until late spring or even
early summer. This is the apple that Stark Bro’s discovered some years ago growing in a wind-swept,
winter-wrapt orchard in the bleak mountains of West Virginia.
This is the tree we bought for $5,000.00. From this growing in states from the Atlantic to the Pacific — bearing
tree we have, during the past years, propagated many golden crops in the East, Central West and Far West. Last
thousand new Golden Delicious trees. These were tested year alone over 10,000 Fruit Growers Planted Golden
East, West, North and South. ~ Golden Delicious is now Delicious Trees.
“50 Per Cent Larger Fruit Than Grimes Golden! I Foresee This Apple
The First Choice In Our Orchards”—Joseph Girardi, /llinois Orchard Expert
“JT have eaten Golden Delicious in October and in the fact that the bruises dry up instead of rotting isa third. Growers will
spring following and the quality kept well. The Golden Delicious find this apple a wonderful money-maker.
tree, as hardy as Stark Delicious and Wealthy,’’ declares Silas
Wilson, owner of the famous 800-acre Wilson Orcharde at Nampa, Read the Thrilling “Trail ofthe Golden Apple” Inthis Bors
remarkable. Although many apple varieties did not blossom heavy Book! Post Yourself on Orchard Planting and Profits! ap See
this year the Golden Delicious multiplied 4 to 5 times over last Y¢ _ , Box 221
year. hae every blossom set an apple!’’ continues this same SEND THE FREE COUPON! of” Louisiana, Mo.
practical fruit grower. G cee A 5 Senc win
Mae : Learn just the varieties of Stark Fruits—apples, peaches, _g@ rianting Guide "st" once,
Furthermore, it is the youngest bearer. we have ever pears, plums, cherries, berries and ornamental trees and shrubs — will
J Thess :
introduced. Also a heavy annual bearer. No other apple tree sur- give you most satisfaction, and best returns. This book will help you do é FREE Bonk Scouts
passes it in these respects. It is a splendid shipper. The firm texture this. Write fora FREE copy. ae of Ornamental _Plant-
of its skin is one reason. The regularity of shape is another. The SEND THE COUPON. ee and anformason epee ER
-andscape , c CK
oe to left. a
: Le 6”
@ AN Creo ccnsscevcccsevscanescccncuccesaseusaneeSuNanuehss5bnOneus na
Stark Bro’s Nurseries Ff,
: 5 : ?.
p on SPV ors Reps Ne EE ese aE aan
The ONLY Stark Nursery In-Existence Pye : ;
F ° ” = Post Office,,........
Always At LOUISIANA, MO. Since 1816. , ¢
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in wriling—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE Frsrvuary, 1919
Service that
Stops Waste
We are ready to serve
you, not only with -choicest
seeds, bulbs, plants, etc., but
also with competent advice
how to get the most out of
them, in the way of crops
and pleasure. Do you know
that about one-fourth of the
tomatoes on plants spreading
on the ground go to waste?
We would not consider our
service to you complete, un-
less we also told you how to
avoid such waste.
We provide such seeds
only as are of proven vitality.
By testing all our seeds
before you get them, we
prevent the waste of poor
“stands” in the row and
delayed crops. These are but
a few factors that count, in
Beckert’s Victory
Garden Service
As conscientious seedsmen we
are just as interested in your com-
plete success in the garden as we
are in your order for seeds, etc.
STR nONSy BET TRAINED SE AOED IN GOR Out customers (and may we not
SIUC UE Ue sete es EIA OLY) consider you one?) have a standin,
FREE CATALOGUE. Packet 10 cents, invitation to put their Eardening,
: problems up to us. Special inquiry
sheets are provided to make it easy to get a dollar’s worth of craftsman-like advice with
every dollar invested in merchandise. Thus do we hope to help our customers to make
the garden one hundred per cent efficient.
Salads All Summer for 25 Cents
Do you know the appetizing qualities of Cress mixed with Lettuce? What would
you give for a fine big dish of Butterhead Lettuce right now? Here is a combination
of kinds that delight salad lovers—and a child can grow them all. We will mail 6 large
packets, as follows, for 25 cents postpaid:—
Cress, Extra Curled. Lettuce, Allheart Butterhead.
Endive, Moss Curled. Chinese Cabbage, Pe-Tsai.
Lettuce, Black-Seeded Simpson. Swiss Chard or Spinach Beet.
All of these, excepting Swiss Chard, may be eaten raw or cooked. Swiss Chard
provides‘a perpetual crop of greens. Each packet will sow a thirty foot row.
A Really Helpful Catalogue FREE
Its frankness will surprise you. While primarily designed to be a salesman, it
carries the ‘‘Service-Idea’’ on every page. It also serves by offering only those sorts
that have stood the test of ‘“‘Survival of the Fittest.’”” It gives no quarters to antiquated
sorts or sorts of limited usefulness. _ Whatever it offers is worthy a place in your.
garden, and whatever it says, isso. You'll find it a trustworthy and
pleasing companion in your garden planning. Write for your free
copy, please, and mention Garden Magazine.
BECKERT’S SEED STORE
Garden Service Complete
101-103 Federal Street, (N.S.)
Pittsburgh, Penna.
Founded
> 1878
LENE. a 4
Bie BG isa
ENDIVE, ALLHEART BUTTERHE
Xa ,
Ste vs see
AD LETTUCE ANDSWISS CHARD. SEE OFFER ABOVE.
THE
| GARDE:
MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY , 1919
ErREa, ¢
ae
RSIS. PSz
VLC ONTENTS'S%
ae
Cover DEsIgN—My GARDEN OF DELIGHT
Amonc Our GARDEN NEIGHBORS - - - - - - 13
Four ItLustraATIONs
How to Make Plans for Later Plantings—The Mild Win-
ter—The Philosophy of Planting—The Open Column
CONTRIVING FOR FLOWERS IN THE SHADE
C. L. Meller
Photographs by the author
Tue Wortip’s BEST FoR OuR Own Garpdens—I
E. I. Farrington
Photographs by the author and H. R. Graves
PLANTING BY THE WEATHER - - Bristow Adams
Photographs by Arthur Eldredge, Nathan R. Graves
and H. E. Angell
THE Live Lovine Atprines - WW. E. Davis, Jr.
Photographs by the author
GARDENING UNASHAMED - - - Frances Duncan
Photographs from several sources
THROUGH THE GARDEN GATE Louise B. Wilder
PREPAREDNESS WitH Horseps E. L. Kirkpatrick
Photographs by the author
Tur SMOKE PROBLEM IN SUBURBAN GARDENS
Photographs by the Missouri Botanical Garden
SELECTIVE DRAFT IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
S. fF. Hamblin
Photograph by H. W. Porch
Tse Fun oF Worxinc Wite Moprern Toots
A. Kruhm
Photographs by the author
Can I User a Tractor? - - Frank E. Goodwin
Photographs by C. J. Hibbard and the Avery Motor
Cultivator Company
THE Montu’s REMINDER - - - - - - - ~31
Sketches by National War Garden Commission
As OtHErRS SEE It -* - - - = - = 36
PopuLtus Maxmwowicztl - - - - - pbs 3S
Photograph by J. Horace McFarland Co.
WorKING A GARDEN FOR Profit - Anna Seibel 40
Rounp ABouT THE Home Prot - - - - - - 42
Rounp AsouT THE Home Por (CONTINUED) - 44
LEONARD Barron, Editor
VOLUME XXIX, No. 1x.
Published Monthly, asc. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year.
For Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Cuicaco: Peoples Gas Bldg. Boston: Tremont Bldg.
Los ANGELES: Van Nuys Bldg. New York: 120 W. 32nd St.
F, N. DOUBLEDAY, President S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
HERBERT S. HOUSTON, RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
Vice-President Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York.
under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879
AY fan
ee
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
FEBRUARY, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 3
~t& From This
Half Acre of
K ell O 9 9 Everbearing
Strawberries
Mr. H. L. Lake, of Rupert, Idaho, who owns this
Short half acre of Kellogg Everbearing Strawberries, says:
“T used to think that the $500 to $1200 per acre reports in your strawberry
book were considerably overdrawn, but I no longer doubt the big crops and
big profits realized from Kellogg strawberries. Last season from less than one-
half acre of Kellogg’s everbearers, I realized $582.92 besides all the berries we
used and canned at home. None were sold for less than 30c
per quart. The vines were loaded with berries when
freezing weather came.”—H. L. Lake.
This is only one of many thousands of excellent reports we are constantly
receiving from enthusiastic customers. Growers everywhere (many of
them beginners) make at the rate of
$500 to $1200 Per Acre from
Kellogg Pedigree Strawberry Plants a
These are the world’s heaviest fruiting and most profitable strawberry plants. They This Valuable
are the result of more than forty years of scientific selection, restriction and ' STRAWBERRY
breeding. The Kellogg trade-mark insures the very best strawberry plants grown. ~.. BOOK—It’s
Our Free Book, “KELLOGG’S GREAT CROPS OF STRAWBERRIES x FREE
AND HOW TO GROW THEM,” pictures in colors and fully describes
the leading and biggest money-making standard and everbearing
varieties, also the world-famed
KELLOGG STRAWBERRY GARDENS
More than 50,000 families throughout the country are
enjoying delicious Kellogg strawberries the year
round and many are making $50.00 to $150.00
cash profit in addition each year— ~~», j
from,Kellogg Strawberry Gar- Lt
dens. Our FREE BOOK tells ,
everything. Send for your copy
today. It’s FREE. Please write your
name and address plainly.
R. M. KELLOGG CO. 18
Box 690, _—‘ Three Rivers, Mich.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
4 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE . _Fesrvuary, 1919
ss]
SW
S
;
Your Shrubbery Border
Will Need This Hydrangea
(Hydrangea Arborescens Grandiflora Alba)
Clusters of Cool
Snowy Bloom
—called “Hills of
Snow’’—that
flourish just in
, _ that difficult time
when spring flow-
ers have gone
and later blooms
not yet come.
f Planted in the
fright places they
will make a de-
lightful difference
in the midsummer
appearance of your
home.
AN IDEAL SUBURBAN PLANT
Thrives in almost any soil; lasting flowers, lovely foliage.
a rdy, well-balanced plants, sac each, $5 doz. Free pack-
in and ne livery to express satin.
FIGHT RD ACRES ESTABLISHED 1792
“WE HAVE GROWN WITH THE NATION
Our ee and experience is yours to command
AMERICAN NURSERY CO.
Long Island, N.Y.
\
NS
Xs
Let Us Send You
England’s Choicest Flowers
For Your Peace Year Garden
WEEN you think of peace | Ver in America, makes this
and happiness returned, quite the most wonderful year
flowers at once become the most of all our 112 years in business.
delightful of all symbols.
a
\
W
\
SN
NIKKO BLUE
HYDRANGEA
A very beautiful Japanese hy- fy
drangea of true blue color. It
differs from other varieties in that
CF it is disk shaped instead of round
(ee It blooms in June.
fyacq $1.00each. $10.00 per doz.
f Send for FREE catalogue NOW.
Morris Nurseries
Our American agents will
; ss promptly send you a catalogue,
So this peace year plant Sut- | which contains a goodly listing
ton sitower seeds im)profusion: | Gf our choicest flowers andl ane
Grow flowers as never before. | oct vegetables.
Have bright colorful blooms for | .
the cloudy days. Choice ones | Your order will be filled direct og Sh | mm West Chester, Pa. ne,
of delicate hues for the sunny | from England. j ——— = . A ON
3 =n il as
Gaily Colored Phlox
for the
Hardy Garden
Ss
ws
Send 35c for the catalogue.
To be able in this way to send | With $5 purchase of seeds the
messengers of happiness to you | 35c will be promptly refunded.
H. P. WINTER & CO. Tae SHERMAN T. BLAKE CO.
64- S ww oo rahoeech Cig azo -C SACRAMENTO STREET
Y
SN
Deke ae Richly colored flowers from :
sig fe Fey, a eae eee Tenn Rocky Mountains July to frost. Grow in ordi-
// nary soil. Planted thisspring =
TT} |. looms io’ sume,
Nursery Stock of Proven Reliability pe ee i |
The successful growing experience of 43 years is back of every tree, plant (Our assortment of the four colors) =
and shrub sold by the Woodlawn Nurseries. (rr
The sturdiness and moderate price of such Woodlawn grown plants bring an eye fill- { f
ing garden within the most moderate means. Luxuriant flowering bushes to line an un- /7a#ijie
interesting pathway, evergreens and shrubs to soften the lines of the house or screen 4 $4
a garage, hardy plants and vines that make your garden an annual joy.
Our 1919 Catalogue is free to |
all. The best Apples, Peaches,
Pears, Berries, Roses and hardy
plants are described, pictured and
priced. Send to-day for copy.
BAIRD & HALL
Althea Ave. Troy, Ohio
We take particular pride in our fruit trees, vines and berry bushes.
Send for our illustrated1919 Nursery List. It contains valuable Vis
planking and growing data together with a catalog of dependa-
le plants and trees.
WOODLAWN NURSERIES (ee
888 Garson Avenue Rochester, New York
Pini Tint nica) W
— NUMAUH WAI AER UN
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
a
s
FreBpruarRy, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 5
‘ ISS NH 2
ISRO eae
Bigger
Better Gardens
of fresh, delicious peas, tender corn on a
the cob, cucumbers, crisp lettuce, suc- 4%
culent golden wax beans—
Bigger Gardens because an Iron Age does
the work so easily that one can have a garden
ten times as large—or take care of a large
garden in a tenth of the time—required by
old-fashioned tools.
Better Gardens because the Iron Age does &&
the planting scientifically —at the right depth, &
the right distance apart—EITHER IN ®&
HILLS OR DRILLS —with soil packed cor-
rectly and rows evenly laid out by the ma-
chine itself, the whole job, in fact, done at one
operation. ;
it
3s SER
ee
es
Ney
q
4
aoe ADEE
Iron Age Garden Tools keep you from getting
a “crick”’ in your back—you wérk upright all the time.
They take the “work” out of gardening and vastly increase the
pleasure of it. You get health, exhilaration, genuine joy from
an early morning turn in the garden,, feeling the moist earth
crumble under the working tools of a wheel hoe, breathing the fresh
air, enjoying the birds and the sunrise, watching the mysteries of na-
ture develop under your own hand —all this and more is in an Iron
Age Combined Hill and Drill Seeder, Double and Single Wheel Hoe.
See your dealer or write us for information
9 is
Bateman M’f’g Company
Implement Manufacturers for 83 years
Box 355 Grenloch, N. J.
Over 30 styles of seeders, wheel
hoes, plows and other tools
for the garden are shown in
Hill and our new book, ‘‘ Modern Gar-
Drill Seeder dening with Iron Age Tools.”
Double Send for your free copy
and Single
Wheel Hoe
6 THE.GARDEN MAGAZINE
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Plant Carpenter’s Giant
Golden Sweet Corn
A Delicious, Big Golden Sweet
Carpenter’s Giant Golden Sweet Corn is actually twice as large as the
Golden Bantam, yet it is only about three days later in maturing. It
requires no more time, effort or fertilizer to raise this heavy-yielding
kind than to raise a small variety.
Many who have tried Carpenter’s Golden Sweet declare that in quality
it even surpasses the celebrated Golden Bantam. Besides being of de-
licious quality, it doesn’t grow mealy like other golden sweets—remains
fit for the table much longer. You can’t beat it for home canning.
Put up a liberal supply and reduce your sugar consumption. Prices,
pkg. 15c.; 4%lb., 35c.; 1 lb. 55c.; 2 lbs., $1-—all postpaid.
Our new 1919 Catalogue is nearly ready—free to all. It de-
ady 1856-1919
scribes choice strains of reliable varieties—both Vegetables :
and Flowers. We have an unusually desirable stock, con-
sidering the season, and we urge our friends to place their
orders early and avoid disappointment. Write us to-day.
J. J. H. Gregory & Son
710 Elm Street Marblehead, Mass.
PED FM, ;
t = E ) ous
ee
FOR 63 YEARS.
THE STANDARD
NATIVE RHODODENDRONS AND KALMIAS
in Carload Lots, at Reasonable Prices
Our collectors have secured a splendid lot of Rhododendron maximum and
Laurels, in specimen plants, for spring delivery. These are the ideal
hardy broad-leayed Evergreens for massing or grouping under
trees or along borders. Get our prices NOW.
Write for Free Catalogue
Describes our general line of fruits and ormamen-
tals which will be found complete in every re-
spect. Please ask for your copy to-day.
'
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The Morris Nursery Company
1123 Broadway, New York City
SANIOAIAHA NAH AOA OHA AAA AAA AAA AAAAAANAAAAAAAA AAA AAA ANAND ANANDA AAA AANA NAAN ATAU AAA AAA AAA ANNAN NNNIANAAD
|
FEBRUARY, 1919
CCC ATCC
=!
DAHLIAS
Of Distinction
You surely will want one of my
new $10.00 dahlias for 1919. The
“U.S. A’ Also the new group;
“The Ten Sea Lions.”’ The price of
the Millionaire has been reduced to
$2.50 for 1919 and the Billionaire to
$5.00. Some corking new novelties
in my 1919 free catalogue.
Geo. L. Stillman
Dahlia Specialist
Westerly, Rhode Isiand, Box C-9.
QUA
AMMA
ITT
Hm
=i
al
Wilmore’s Dahlias
Get in your order now for the 1919 catalogue.
Some superb novelties will be listed and new introductions.
LAURA BARNES (Peony) and JUSTICE BAILEY
(Cactus) are two of the greatest Dahlias before the Ameri-
can public. They have made good everywhere. Strong
tuber stock.
Novelties and standard varieties true to name and no
war prices.
REVISED
EDITION
DAHLIA MANUAL
By W. W. WILMORE
An up-to-date treatise on the Dahlia and Dahlia culture.
Price 25c. Special prices for premium purposes. Dahlia
catalogue free. Novelties for 1919.
W.W. Wilmore, Box 382, Denver, Colo.
NIGHT’S FRUIT PLANTS
have been the
Don’t waste time and money with infer-
30 YEARS ior stock. $1,000 per acre has been made
growing strawberries and raspberries. YOU can do as well
with KNIGHT’S PLANTS. Write forFREEcatalogueto-day.
David Knight & Son, Box 102, Sawyer, Mich.
Standard for over
Bargains in Choice Nursery Collections
8 Trees (2 Nut, 3 ft.—6 Shade, 7 ft.) x English Walnut, 1
Japan Walnut, 2 White Ash, 2 Am. Elm, 2 Lombardy Poplar;
total, $5.00.
_8 Dwarf Evergreens, 10-12 in. for Window Boxes. 2 Mugho
Pine, 2 Austrian Pine, 2 Pyr. Arborvite, 2 Globe Arborvite;
total, $5.00.
15 Hardy Shrubs, 18-24 in., Porch or Foundation Planting.
2 Bush Hydrangea, 2 Hills of Snow, 2 Siberian Cornus, 2 Wei-
gelia Rosea, 2 Deutzia Lemoinei, 2 Deutzia Gracilis, 2 Red Coral
Berry, 1 Purple Barberry, Plan Free; total, $5.00.
Box Barberry for Low Hedges (12 in.), $20.00 per 100.
Evergreens for Tubbing or Ornamental Planting, with ball of
earth, $ ft., $2.50 each—5 for $10.00. 1 Hemlock Spruce, 1 White
Spruce, 1 Norway Spruce, 1 Red Pine, r Am. Arborvite.
GARDEN SPECIAL, Votal $5.00.—2 Grape Vines, 25 Everbearing
Raspberry, 25 Everbearing Strawberry Plants, so Growers’ Wonder
, Strawberry Plants, 1 Downing Gooseberry, 2 Cherry Currant, so Aspara-
gus, 2 year.
If interested in Perennial Borders, Rose Gardens, etc., we offer
Landscape Service.
Horticultural Gardens,
Unadilla, N. Y.
Nut Trees
My HARDY PENNSYLVANIA GROWN TREES are the
best for eastern or northern planting. Pecans, English and
Black Walnuts, Shagbarks, etc. Alltrees budded or grafted—
noseedlings. Attractive catalogue free.
J. F. JONES—The Nut Specialist
Box G Lancaster, Penn’a
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will. loo
Fepruary, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 7
One Packet Each of these Eighteen Varieties
Lima. Parsley, Moss Curled.
¢ Ske
‘A arketBasket
Vegetable Seed Collection
” You can “go to market”’ in your own garden, getting fresh, |
crisp vegetables for summer use, and some to save for winter. A
dollar invested in seed now will mean many dollars saved next
summer- ‘
A Garden Full of Vegetables
the kinds that your family likes; the kinds that are easy to grow
and that will give you satisfactory returns. Forbes’ Dollar Market
Beans, King of Earlies, Ward- Onion, Yellow Globe Danvers;
Beet, Detroit, Dark Red; Radish, Scarlet Globe, Scarlet
Cultivating for Victory
in School Gardens
Basket Collection of Seeds contains
well’s Wax, Fordhook Bush Red Wethersfield.
Early Wonder. Turnip White-Tip.
Carrot, Coreless. Spinach, Savoy-Leaved-
Cucumber, Forbes’ Prolific Swiss Chard.
White Spine. Tomato, Matchless.
Lettuce, Champion of All; Turnip, Purple-Top, White
Grand Rapids. Globe.
Sent Postpaid for One Dollar .
Forbes’ 1919 Catalogue—“Every Garden Requisite” —is full of
helps for the vegetable and flower grower—seeds, tools, insecti-
cides. Write to-day for your free copy-
Everywhere!
The victory over General Hunger who
to-day stalks the world, is going to be won
by young America. America’s Land Army
of school children everywhere are going to
\ coax the soil to give, until final victory is
assured.
Malhe Gilson
Weeder Stands for Victory
Victory over worry as to what tools to give the children! The Gilson
Weeder makes the boys and girls as competent and as safe at cultivating
as the man behind the hoe. The Gilson Weeder makes light of hard
work for the youngsters who literally enjoy to pull and push the Gilson.
Equip your boys and girls. Made in three and a half, five. six, and
eight inch blades.
The Liberty
Cultivator Weeder
shortens garden hours
Here are the scientifically shaped teeth
that cause the “Liberty” to go into the
soil without pressure, cultivate the soil and
cut all weeds in one operation. Attached to
: either a five-foot handle or to wheelframe shown
below, the “Liberty” is the greatest adjustable tool in America’s gar-
dens to-day. Your dealer handles “Gilson Garden Tools,’’ or should. If
he cannot supply, we will.
ALEXANDER FORBES & CO., Seedsmen
114 Mulberry Street Newark, New Jersey
Wouldn’t You Like These
Splendid Gladiolus Bulbs
Next summer they will give you an exception-
ally fine floral display in your garden, and
furnish beautiful spikes of bloom for
indoor decorations.
Special Offer No. 3
10 Bulbs for $1, postpaid
Mary Fennel, lavender Golden West, orange
Dawn, pink Goliath, dark wine
Europa, snow white _—_ Pink Perfection
Canary Bird, yellow _—_ Princeps, scarlet
Clarice, rose-pink ~- Victory, yellow
Descriptive Booklet Free
For the sake of your 1919 Food
Garden, get acquainted with the
complete line of competent Gil-
son Labor Savers. There is a tool
i E for every p <—buil
Special Offer No. 5 ep ae ee
75 Bulbs for $1, postpaid Wnite us at once, please.
Some of the most beautiful named varielies in J. E. Gilson Co
my fields are in this collection. ‘
Port Washington
net true to color, securely packed, and sent post- Wisconsin
I have a plan whereby you can get twenty-
five bulbs for almost nothing. Ask me
HAIMA
My ‘‘Glad”’ Catalogue tries to convey to you
some of the surprises in store for those who plant
my gladioli. Cultural directions furnished will
help you to be successful with the bulbs. Send for the
catalogue; or better still, order the collection for imme
diate or future delivery.
JELLE ROOS
Box N
Milton, Mass.
ral
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
8 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE i a a.
STUMMMN AU STL
You Can Grow Justi Such Heads
right in your own garden, in most any soil providing you sow the right seeds at
the right time and follow the culture directions in Buist’s Garden Guide. Among
our more than thirty distinct sorts of lettuce, one is sure to serve your needs. If
in doubt which lettuce to grow, try
BUIST’S “VERIBEST” LETTUCE
The “‘very best”’ butter head lettuce for early crop, forming solid heads, with most appetizingly
crumpled leaves of a rich yellow within, light green without. It isa syre header, free of bitter flavor
at all stages of development and stands a long timebefore bursting. Pkt. 5c; 0z. 20c;+ lb. 60c postpaid.
Two Other Buist Quality Vegetables
Buist’s Perfect Model Beet is a very sweet fine- Buist’s ‘‘Earli-Bell’? Tomato is unquestionably the
grained kind of deep rich color and extraordinary quality. choicest early home garden sort of most prolific character.
It retains this quality until long overgrown. Pkt. 5c; oz. Fruits are smooth, flesh solid and of elegant flavor. Pkt. 5c;
20c; i Ib. 6oc postpaid. 0z. 356; } lb. $1.15 postpaid.
Send for Buist’s 1919 Garden Guide To-day |
Free Flower Seeds with orders of 50c and over. |
Besides offering th dependable strains of
the! best quality vecetables to eraw/inithe Hone ROBERT BUIST
COMPANY
garden, it gives valuable culture directions how to
24 So. Front St.,
grow them. Every line in it is written
Philadelphia, Pa:
It Gives Your Garden
That Early Start
‘THE Skinner system of watering immediately
after planting, settles the soil around the seeds,
giving the root growth an immediate grip on its
ood.
In quick germination, and quickened growth of
the young plants, lies one of the main secrets of
an early garden. Water rightly distributed is a
vital necessity, : :
Don’t wait until your garden needs watering
before you buy a Skinner Watering System.
It’s too late then. ” ;
With watering, as with most other things, the
time to do them is just before they need doing.
One of our Portable Lines, 50 feet long costing
so little as $21.50, not only does away with hose-
lugging and hose-holding, but it waters 2,500
square feet at a time. }
Send for Catalogue and Experience Booklet.
The Skinner Irri$ation Co.
KINNER
Water
YSTEM
St.
— ee
OF IRRIGATION.
to help you to better results in the gar-
den. Its ‘‘Monthly Re-
minder’’ is a feature not
found in any other seed
catalogue: Write us TO-
DAY—try above special-
tes.
Troy
Ohio
GARDEN LABELS
Know when, where and what you planted. Label your garden.
100 wood labels in assortment from the big 12-inch for marking
DAHLIAS are the wondrous results of years of hybridizing exper-
iments in crossing and recrossing the choicest English, French and
Holland varieties. They are marvelously beautiful in both coloring |
and form, have strong stems and are excellent as cut flowers.
garden rows to little copper-wired label for marking trees and
shrubs, _ Attractively packed with marking pencil 70 cts.,
post paid. 4
C. H. GORDINIER - me) Troy,N.Y. | |
1660 DERBY STREET
M. G. TYLER PORTLAND, OREGON
LCM
ag =
Plan Ahead for Rose Time
Home—the kind of home that has a yard full of flowers, has a charm and fascination all
its own. The height of its attractiveness is in rose time. To have this home rose
atmosphere in season, it’s essential to make early selection of rose plants
that will show beautiful, healthy blooms at the right time.
2x2 4x2 3x3 re
MakeEvery Seed Count!
NOW FOR THE VICTORY GARDEN!
Peace brings additional responsibilities for increasing
the food supply. Make your plans, order now and
start your flower and vegetable plants: *
LET PAPER POTS HELP YOU
Start your indoor garden with them this month.
Use them to sow Peppers, Tomatoes, Egg Plants, etc.
Make every seed produce a plant. per 100 per 1000
2x2 size—for all small Plants...... $ .75 $5.00
4x2 size—for Sweet Peas only ..... 1.00 6.00
3x3 size—for Tomatoes, Melons,
THE BEST
ROSES
FOR
AMERICA
If they do not, your case will be such an exception that we will gladly
replace your plants or refund their cost. Each star size Conard Rose
bears a STAR tag, the guarantee of its bloom.
SPECIAL FEBRUARY OFFER
Wide assortment of choice Conard climbers, at a special price.
Climbing American Beauty (rosy red)* _In Star size—
American Pillar (leading single pink) Sp cane Bey Cucumbers, etc......... 1.25 6.50
Thousand Beauty (many colored) In 2 year size,— 4x3 size—for Corn, Beans, ete. ae 1.50 7.00
2 ‘ ti ix, $3.00 : 6 2 &
Dr: my beds pest (flesh pink) a Saeeate ane No increase in prices while present stocks last
ronati ulty carmine) By Parcel Post, C.O. D. }
Gardenia (exquisite yellow) postage extra. Gel Our Free Booklet of Garden Helps
Describes quite a number of unusually handy tools as well as
The ‘‘Groquik” Forcers for early gardens. Be sure to write or
; order TO-DAY ; roe
THE CLOCHE COMPANY “'tiwwonk cy.
Phone 2749 Barclay
We are Eastern agents for the Skinner Irrigation
Corporation. Write us on your water: problems. «
sol AMAA
To fully ppprete the rose possibilities for your home, you should have our new 52-page
illustrated Catalog; also our Special List (furnished until March 31) showing the right selec-
tion for your section—points of our STAR ROSE SERVICE.
CONARD & JONES COMPANY
Robert Pyle Rose Specialists backed by 50 Years’ Experience Antoine Wintzer
President BOX 24 WEST GROVE, PA, Vice-President
alll
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too °
Fepruary, 1919
(HOR GeACk, > BON “MEAG A ZN E
9
Select such varieties as are best adapted to your own wants.
FOTTLER, FISKE, RAWSON COMPANY, The Faneuil Hall Square Seed Store, Boston, Mass. |
Our Seed Annual will be mailed Free at once. It is complete and yet concise and to the point. Full of lifelike illustrations
Have Your Own Vegetable Garden
If you need assistance mail a postal card to
LLL
i We Especially Feature
VEGETABLE SEEDS —
FARM SEEDS.
'| Implements most useful in
home gardening.
The best fertilizer to use.
The insecticides proper to
use for the destruction
of the various insects.
Our practical experience of
over forty years in the grow-
ing and caring for seeds puts
us in a position to give our
customers the benefit of
§ our long experience.
on Poultry Supplies.
CMCC HHH @@Ee@eEeeeee@dddddddddHEEEEEE@E@@P>EECE@EEEEEEEEEEEEEE@@P@PEE@EEE@EXE@@EEEE@E@@EEEE EEE
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This Seed Annual that we mail free contains not only 60 pages devoted to Vegetable Seed but you will find over 30 pages devoted to Flower Seeds;
30 pages to Dahlia and Gladiolus with over 50 illustrations of the best varieties; and 30 pages to Roses, Perennial Plants, Shrubs, etc., as well as several pages
This book is sent free to all who write for it—a postal will do
FOTTLER, FISKE, RAWSON COMPANY, Faneuil Hall Square, Boston, Mass.
VME
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MC’’’“™’“tt*«¢é:
MEeEe@E@qEEqEEE
REER’S 1919)
‘GARDEN BOOK
Solve Your Gardening Problems
by using Dreer’s Garden Book for a ready reference. It
combines the experience and knowledge of eighty-one years.
Both the amateur and professional gardener will find invalu-
able the expert advice on how to grow the best
Vegetables and Flowers
224 pages, with over a thousand photographic illustrations, describing
and listing practically everything worth growing in the garden, truck patch
or farm.
Four Color Plates of Dreer’s Specialties in
Vegetables and Flowers
Mailed free if you mention this publication
HENRY A.DREER
714-716 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, Pa.
aa Sd =
A Beautiful English Walnut Tree in
Washington’s Garden, Mt. Vernon.
so that it is available for plant-
ing about your home in your
garden and orchard, with the
same assurance of success as a
planting of Apples, Pears,
Peaches, Oaks, and Maples.
Read about these wonderful
trees in our 1919 catalogue, which
will be sent free on request, and
let us aid you in making a selec-
tion for your own particular re-
quirements.
GLEN BROS., Inc.,
Glenwood Nursery,
1804 Main St., Rochester, N. Y.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
The Great Washington
probably did not know that
an acre (50 trees) of English
Walnut Trees will produce ina
single year food equal to 60,000
eggs (as asserted by Dr. J. H.
Kellog), but he did know the
great value of nut trees and
planted them around his home
at Mt. Vernon. You may not
know that at Rochester we
have highly developed under
severe climatic conditions the
NORTHERN GROWN
ENGLISH
WALNUT TREE
A Real English Walnut Orchard near Rochester
N.
Y. 260 bushels from 228 trees—one season
10 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY, 1919
De Lue’s GOLDEN GIANT
‘joe SWEET CORN
URNISHES the sweetest and most luscious creamy nutriment
you can imagine. Acclaimed the most important horticul-
tural acquisitions of recent years. Awarded the only medal
given for sweet corn by the Mass. Horticultural Society in 67
years.
De Lue’s Golden Giant is the result of 12 years’ selection from the
product of the Howling Mob crossed with Golden Bantam and
combines all the good points of both parents.
Stalks very short and stout near the ground. Two to three ears; 8 to 9
inches long; cob of small diametery carrying from 12 to 22 rows of long
broad kernels of deep orange color.
This seed offered by the originator is 2 years in advance of that sold by
competitors (as to selection).
It excels all other early varieties in size, productiveness and quality and
all the late varieties in quality and early maturity. Jt is the one corn for
the home or market gardener who wants the greatest amount of highest quality corn 1m the shortest period of time
from the smallest piece of land. Wlustrated circular “How to Know and How to Grow a Perfect Sweet Corn”
sent with order. Price 3 oz. 35 cts., I 0Z. 50 cts., I pint=12 ozs. $5.00, I quart $10.00.
Send Check or Money Order. No Stamps.
FREDERICK S. De LUE, M.D. Experimental Farm Needham, Mass. Dept. G
ew Evergreen [F
fey =. (
kdl Bittersweet teal
Euonymus radicans vegetus
A lovely climber, adaptable to all loca-
tions; unsurpassed for covering trellises,
walls or stumps. Rich green all the year,
with crimson berries in winter. Can
be planted at any time.
1st size, 50c each; $5 per dozen
2nd size, 75c each; $8 per dozen
3rd size,'$1.50 each; $15 per dozen
Adolf Muller xcs zs
Norristown,Penna.
<
GOLDEN’ GIANT
GOLDEN BANTAM
A LT NT TD
Hardy Ferns and Flowers
For Dark, Shady Places
Plan NOW to plant your
native ferns and flowers
early in the spring.
Early planting brings
{ best results. Send
DS for descriptive cat-
NN alogue of over 80
pages. It’s FREE.
EDWARD GILLETT
3 Main Street, Southwick, Mass.
bai: le M e A i
to Make Your Grounds and
’
Gardens Attractive?
We would like tosend you with our compliments a treatment. It is just one suggestion after another right
copy of ‘‘Home Landscapes.”’ This is a 48 through the book and presented so simply you can
page book that will help you discover the possibilities determine at once which are applicable to your
of your land and help you decide the most effective space and condition.
“4 HICKS NURSERIES
re Westbury, Long Island, Box M Phone 68
LF? Fp LEDC E a S PROTA TT pe ee
: a ae a Whee,
eae Os,
2 ee
Garden Literature
For Amateurs
“Could not afford io miss a_ single
number of your valuable magazines.”
“They helb me more than ail other
magazines on gardening combined.”
“They are the most wonderful guidance
for an amateur.”
These are the universal com-
ments of all readers.
ULSAN TS
Flower Lore
A magazine on the practical growing of flowers.
, Vegetable Lore
Tells you how, when and what to grow, and
how to prepare for the table.
Both are “delightfully different” and “‘surpris-
ingly unique.” Nothing is ever repeated—all
suggestions are timely—appear once a month.
Write for sample copies and rates.
The ideal gift for gardening friends.
_MAURICE FULD, Garden Expert
Phone Bryant 2926
7 West 45th Street New York :
E
OMIT
SALA
LLL ALLL LLL ddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddédee
DWARF APPLE TREES
DWARF PEAR TREES
DWARF PLUM TREES
DWARF CHERRY TREES
DWARF PEACH TREES
E Catalogue Free
THE VAN DUSEN NURSERIES
Cc. C. McKAY, Mer. Box G, Geneva, N. Y.
NY
Ladd
Healthful, delicious,
Grapes Are F ood Breathe Boao
den should have a few vines of the best kinds for home use.
Hubbard’s Grape Catalogue
lists only the sorts that are suitable for home planting.
Send for a copy to-day, and start growing grapes this year.
T. S. HUBBARD CO., Box 18, Fredonia, N. Y.
LLL hdbdddddddddddddddddddallaar
SSSA
S
Gladiolus Enthusiasts
DON’T FAIL TO TRY
PRINCE of WALES
The gladiolus beautiful. Color, a clear, gorgeous salmon
with slight apricot reflections, melting to a throat of the sweet-
est yellow. The colors of the popular Qphelia Rose repro-
duced in a gladiolus.
Prince of Wales is extremely early, large flowered on a
tall, strong spike, and is a rapid multiplier. Every spike a
bouquet, oftentimes eight to ten flowers open at once.
Awarded a First Class Certificate at Haarlem, Holland, a
rare honor.
I believe that I havethe largest TRUE stock of this variety
in America and although this has sold as high as $1.50 per
bulb within the last two years, I can offer strong flowering
bulbs, irrigation grown, at the very reasonable price of 25
cents apiece; five bulbs for $1.00; a dozen bulbs for $2.25;
one hundred for $15.00, all postpaid. Order quickly if you
would get this great Novelty, as stock is going fast.
Prize Collection
Owing to the great demands I have had for these collec-
tions since advertising them in the December issue I have
decided to renew the offer. These collections are sold to se-
cure new customers and present flower lovers a rare oppor-
tunity to secure a fine assortment of bulbs at low cost.
For a LIMITED TIME only, I offer a Collection of FIFTY
flowering size bulbs in eight of the finest varieties now
grown, in all colors, such as Pendleton, Schwaben, War,
Peace, Pink Perfection, etc., all separately labelled and sent
postpaid for $1.00.
The above Collection and SIX bulbs of PRINCE OF
WALES while they last, postpaid for $2.00.
Cultural directions free with all bulb orders. Descriptive
leaflet of above free for your name on a
RAYMOND M. CHAMPE
Walled Lake Oakland County Michigan
My Specialties: New and Rare Bulbs and Hardy Plants of Merit
Write me your wants in
Gladioli, Dahlias, Darwin Tulips—Peonies, Iris, Phlox
Vaaaaaaiidddiéea
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
FEBRUARY, 1919
y Trees are the
Y Crowning Features
of Home Grounds
They should be selected with
the greatest care, and with
4 thought for what they may be-
come in future years. Whether
for shade or for ornament, or for
r~ adding fruit to the food supply
2,6" you want only the best obtainable.
~ Shade and Fruit Trees |
Evergreens, Shrubs, Roses
in almost unbelieveable quantities, are
{ growing on our 1200 acre nursery along the
shore of Lake Erie, where soil, moisture and
climate work in harmony to produce hardy,
sturdy stocks. Maples and Lindens, Elms
and Oaks, Spruces and Pines, flowering j
shrubs, new Roses, standard and dwarf
trees, for every purpose are described in
Our 1919 Catalogue
65th Annual Edition
a summary of the workin America’s Greatest Depart-
mental Nursery, with a list of desirable vegetable
and flower seeds, bedding and house plants.
Everything needed for garden, lawn, orchard
and farm can be secured on one order, from
us. Send to-day for a copy.
The STORRS & HARRISON CO. &
y Box 715
Painesville, Ohio
SUOMI NRTA
INL
HO NL
I
RAND CENTRAL HEADQUARTERS
for the newest and best flowers, vegetables
and fruits. Millions on millions of boxes
of the ‘‘Burbank’’ new cherries, plums, prunes,
peaches, quinces, rhubarb, etc., are shipped East
each season.
The “Burbank” Tomato, is the earliest tomato in
the whole world. The home tomato, the great
* packers’ tomato. MHalf the tomato crop of the
United States and Canada is secured by the
grower the other half by Fall frosts. You all
know the “Burbank’”’ wonderful rainbow corn,
the finest foliage plant that grows out of doors.
The New Rainbow Chard Beet has all the rainbow
colors in its foliage; this will be offered first
in January 1919. Many other new flowers,
vegetables, grains, nuts and fruits.
Shall we add your name to our list. Send a
postcard now.
LUTHER BURBANK
Santa Rosa ’ California, U.S. A.
sa. CC
‘al
EDM ASMA Ge ONO Aa
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FE 2 23 ay om ~
50) o-0 pad elegy aati ial wl ee RA
ruse ia Aa NOM 23 WROCA SIND ay ESOP LA UIAAd Wiel
W HAR DY’EDGING
1¢s's. WPA
eee a Z Sbeiiia. -
Garden bordered with Box-Barberry. Two-year-old stock was used.
Photo taken three months after planting; set four inches apart
-A Distinct Novelty for Borders
and Low Hedges
OX-BARBERRY is the most beautiful little plant imaginable. It
does not grow tall and spreading, but dwarf and compact, and is
especially useful in formal gardens and for low hedges.
Box-Barberry is perfectly hardy wherever Berberis Thunbergi grows.
In summer the foliage is light green, but changes to brilliant red and
yellow inautumn. Jt does not harbor wheat rust.
Box-Barberry is offered this year for the first time. Box-Barberry has
been thoroughly tried over a period of fifteen years before sending out.
It is no experiment.
1 year, frame-grown, $20.00 per 100; $175.00 per 1000
2 year, field-grown, 30.00 per 100; 250.00 per 1000
3 year, field-grown, 40.00 per 100; 350.00 per 1000
(50 at 100 rates; 250 at 1000 rates)
Available stock limited. Orders filled strictly in rotation received.
THE ELM CITY NURSERY CO., Woodmont Nurseries, Inc.
New Haven, Conn. (Near Yale Bowl)
Our Catalogue, now ready, lists a comprehensive assortment of
choice Shade and Fruit Trees, Evergreens (including Taxus
cuspidata type), Shrubs, Vines, Roses, Hardy Plants. Casa-
logue mailed the day your request is received.
OS ANE aE
[Nursery 6 Greg tate
Prepare for Spring Planting’
OUR HARDY ROSE BUSHES
represent the peak of perfection—an accomplishment of per-
sistent expert endeavor. For fragrance, beauty, and sentiment,
they are supreme in the garden.
Make Your Selection Now
TREES AND SHRUBS,OLD-FASHION FLOWERS
RHODODENDRONS, EVERGREENS
in all varieties—grown at our 500-acre Nursery
Come and See Them
Send your name for our Catalogues—ready in February
Rutherford New Jersey
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY,
NNN NNT
i AA
a
Euonymus radicans vegetus’
The Best Hvergreen Vine for America
Is ivy the best vine in the world? Doubtless every Englishman will ery
“Yes!” because the European or English Svy (Hedera Helix) is the oldest
evergreen vine in cultivation and has made the deepest impression in liter-
ature, art and history. But if your standard is merit, not associations, there
is another vine which seems to me inherently better, viz., the Climbing
Euonymus, or, as I now propose to call it, the ““Evergreen Bittersweet.”
True, the form of its leaf is not unique, like that of ivy, but it has one over-
whelming advantage in its gorgeous red berries, which are resplendent all
winter against a noble background of evergreen foliage. And in many
other ways it has greater value than ivy, even in regions where the ivy is
hardy.
The accompanying picture gives but a faint hint of the five-fold glories
pf the Evergreen Bittersweet. In the first place, it is evergreen, and there-
fore has an obvious advantage over deciduous vines in being beautiful 365
days of the year, instead of two weeks or seven months.
Secondly, it is very accommodating as to soils, climate, exposures; is easy
to grow; and will trail over the ground or climb to the noble height of 30 feet.
Thirdly, it has an immense advantage over ivy, in being much hardier,
growing 20 feet high in New England where ivy can be grown only as a
ground-cover.
Fourthly, its superb red fruits, which closely resemble those of our common
wild bittersweet, seem divinely appointed to redeem our American winters
from their bleak, ugly and cheerless moods.
And, fifthly, it promises to develop a strong American character, becoming
universal and dear to the American heart. If I had a million dollars to
spare I should like to plant an Evergreen Bittersweet against every stone,
brick and concrete wall in America. The effect would be electrical, for it
would add 100 per cent. to the beauty of America. And it would only be
ELLIOTT NURSERY CO.
anticipating by a hundred years what will surely happen, for it is hardly
possible that the world holds any plant with greater power to transform a
house intoa home. Asin England every home and every church is enriched,
dignified and ennobled by ivy, so every American home will come to be
connected so closely with the Evergreen Bittersweet that it will be impossible
to think of one without the other.—Wilhelm Miller, in Tar GarpEn Maca-
ZINE, November, 1912.
We have known for several years of the great merit of the vine, Euonymus
radicans vegetus, so enthusiastically described by Professor Miller, and
have been steadily getting up a large stock of it, and now have several thou-
sand plants. It is a sport from Euonvmus radicans, but absolutely distinct
from that vine. ,
Planted in rows and kept sheared this vine makes a splendid evergreen
hedge. It is also a splendid ground cover plant for either sun or shade.
Perfectly hardy, but when planted in the fall should be protected with a
mulching of three inches of stable manure, being careful not to cover the
evergreen foliage. Very slow growing at first, but when well established
grows with great vigor.
Small pot-plants, 30 cents each, $2.50 per dozen, $20.00 per 100. Strong
pot-plants, 50 cents each, $5.00 per dozen, $35.00 per hundred.
Write now for latest catalog of
Hardy Plants, Trees, Shrubs, Ete.
It contains a great variety of the most dependable and popular favorites
in hardy plants, Roses, Peonies, Delphiniums, Evergreens, Rhododendrons.
Also seeds of superlative quality. Write today.
367 Fourth Ave., Pittsburgh, Pa.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
NAA
1919
HN
Fal
—_"
How to Make Plans for Later
Plantings
CANNOT help wondering, days like these,
how people who live down South, or out in
Californya, or wherever else the growing
season is twelve months long, ever manage
to carry out their garden plans. Or, rather,
how they ever get time to make any such plans
at all!
For if they can be actively digging and plant-
ing, transplanting and pruning any day in the
year, when, in the name of goodness do they
find opportunity to sit down quietly, ruminate
over the past, and create the mental pictures of
what they are going to do in the future? Such
things can be done best only when the mind is
not occupied with other problems of immediate,
pressing needs; when the hands must needs be
idle; when there is a lull in the physical activities
that makes room for increased functioning along
mental and spiritual lines.
Consequently now, while for most of us the
ground is frozen solid, when the snow is inches
deep, or maybe feet, when the steam pipes hiss or
the open fire crackles, according to the degree
of modernity of our domicile—right now is “the
time to decide what we are going to make of our
gardens next summer. What to grow and how
much of it; where to put each item, new or old;
with what to precede and follow it; all such de-
tails ought to be definitely decided upon before
the crocuses kindle the first sparks of the spring-
time conflagration that melts the snow and
loosens the frost-bound soil.
Of course one doesn’t have to be bound by that
first plan as by the Ten Commandments. Half
the fun i in gardening and a good part of the proof
of one’s ability and ingenuity lie in modifying,
improving, and enlarging upon the original
schedule, We don’t know what sort of weather
the seasons are going to bring, or how early or
late they will be—the old ‘Farmers’ Almanac”
to the contrary notwithstanding; seed will go
wrong sometimes as to viability or trueness to
type—the waiver of responsibility on every seeds-
man’s package tells us that; and insects, diseases,
floods and droughts are all parts of the preor-
dained programme that every season tries our
mettle and tests our adaptability and power of re-
bounding against or in spite of obstacles.
So the very best of winter made garden plans
is but a framework, a preliminary sketch, a
hypothetical outline, if you like, upon which later
to arrange and execute the details of the actual
mobilization drive. And just because it is a
foundation, skeleton-like affair it is fundamentally
important, no less than the backbone of verte-
brates, the shell of a lobster or the bony structure
FEBRUARY, 1919
of any living creature that is the least bit above
the lowest strata of animal life.
For one thing it insures a good supply of tools,
labels, seed, spray mixtures and all the materials
wherewith to make the most of every minute
when the time for action arrives. No one, you
see, could go over in his or her mind the garden
work to be done next summer without checking
up to see if there were ample supplies on hand of
everything that would be needed to do that
work.
Again it enables, indeed it requires one to
look back over the past year’s experiences and
to analyze one’s successes and failures; in other
words, it gives the garden that is to be a back-
ground, a perspective. It calls to mind varieties
that were especially satisfactory on a trial basis,
of which one wants to grow more next season
and which it behooves one to order early before
the rush caused by those who act only at the last
moment, begins. It suggests a careful survey of
the pantry shelves and the root cellar to ascertain
whether more tomatoes or fewer beans should
be raised for canning, and whether last year’s
patch of potatoes was really enough to last all
winter. In short, it clears away the fog of inde-
cision and inaccurate knowledge of what one
needs to do and opens up a vista of definite action
which can be improved on if necessary or desir-
able, but which, just as it stands will get one some-
where worth going to.
The important thing, then, is have you made
your particular plan for the 1919 garden? Do
you know how many new shrubs you will need
to fill that empty corner by the fence, and what
they are going to be? Have you settled on what
varieties of Roses you are going to start over the
pergola that was finished just as the snow came?
Have you decided whether to try three varieties
of corn that you have heard about or stick to
succession plantings of the old reliable Golden
Bantam? Have you figured out where you can
put the cabbages and cauliflower this year.so as to
give them new, clean ground and avoid the danger
of club root, without crowding the melons off
that light, sandy bit of soil that they love?
Not a single question of this sort, of planting
policy we might call it, should remain unan-
swered by the time the next issue of THE GARDEN
MacazineE appears. Because then there won’t
be time to sit indoors and ponder over them.
Living up to its customary name and to the
tradition of the seasons (which, I admit, has been
severely strained by the Easter blizzards of the
last few years) the March number will be a real
planting manual, discussing not the whats and
whys and wherefores and whences, but the hows.
Then will be the time to really dig and plow, to
mulch and trench and begin the actual construc-
13
NuMBER 1
The Carden Magazine
tional tasks in hotbed and outdoors. The lead-
ing articles and the departments will tell how,
but after a busy day following directions you
won't feel very ready to sit down of an evening
and work over a garden diagram. You will
be doing well about then to jot down in the
garden diary the main tasks that you have ac-
complished before attending to the new crop
of blisters on your palms and stretching out a
mildly aching back for a well-earned rest.
And so, for any one of a number of good rea-
sons, get busy over your plans now, so as to be
free to tackle the other tasks that, following fast,
will soon be claiming most of your time, much of
your attention, and all of your concentrated
garden-thoughts.
The Mild Winter
HE change to. peace from war has had
the anticipated reaction in the garden
and the extremely mild weather of this
winter—up to the time this note is
written (early January)—is having its effect
in the garden. These two things indeed are
correlated. An unusual amount of planting
weather has been a very practical offset to any
shortage of labor. Planting has continued un-
interruptedly up to this time; and at this writing
is still in effect in many parts of the country
which normally are closed up tight at this time
of year.
Of course by the time these notes are being
read it is practically certain that there will have
been some touch of real winter but what has
been gained cannot well be lost. Ground work
has had attention, transplanting of trees and
shrubs, setting out of fruits and ornamentals
have been going on a-pace. The nurserymen
report a big volume of business.
On the other side of the book is the fact that
the warmth of the entire fall and early winter
has stimulated many plants into undue activity;
Lilacs and other early flowering shrubs that
should have been dormant have been falsely
stimulated into a belief that spring has come.
They have pushed out buds; in some cases even
flowers have been developed. We hear of Lilacs
blooming in Cleveland, and of blackberries ripen-
ing fruit out of season. The stimulation of
growth in the tender parts of plants 1s, of course,
accompanied with more or less danger to the
plants themselves.
Last year abnormal cold resulted in the killing
of the flower buds on many spring blooming
shrubs. This year to some extent the spring
bloom is being killed by being forced to appear
months ahead of its time. In all cases where
the early spring flowering shrubs have borne
14
flowers thus, out of season, it is obvious that they
cannot perform the trick of producing the normal
crop at the normal spring time.
Shrubs that flower on the old wood will thus
suffer in their immediate flower; although it is
not at all likely that the vigor of the plant itself
will in any way be affected. In the case of the
blackberry, and in other plants which are usually
pruned in the spring, and which produce their
bloom on new wood no harm can accrue. The
tender growth produced out of season by undue
warmth and then subjected to a spell of decidedly
cold weather will be lost. And in the case of
hardwood trees and shrubs a drain on the reserve
food supply of the entire plant may be apparent
later on—in the summer.
After all the life of a plant is a series of debits
and credits. If the winter strain draws unduly
on reserve supplies, there will be a period of
lessened activity while the bank account is being
replenished. Gardeners are not always inclined
to give adequate attention to this reserve account.
When we grow food plants for immediate con-
sumption we pay very little attention to the stor-
ing up of a reserve; but the permanent establish-
ment of a tree or shrub is a different matter.
Of course, there is nothing unusual
deciduous plants which normally are dormant
during winter bursting out into leaf and flower.
It is simply that the plant has been fooled. It
excites wonder, perhaps, being there; and yet,
in itself is not remarkable—it is only “‘off the
average.”
E SPEAK glibly about average perform-
ances; but the fact remains that, in the
garden, the average is a thing that we very
rarely see, and indeed, do not want to. We are
always trying to push our plants to the extreme of
possibility. We accomplish this in the vegetable
garden by high stimulation, intensive feeding,
and thorough cultivation. We bring ‘it about
in the fruit garden by controlling growth through
pruning, and removal of vegetative growth in
order to develop fruit buds and spurs.
We follow the same principles among the
flowers—we disbud in order to force a greater
size at the sacrifice of quantity—and in every
way we try to work the superlative by using
just those factors in nature’s own methods that
seem to correspond with our own ideals; and
very often interfere with what may be the plant’s
own natural habit. Thus in winter pruning
we remove entire branches and very often by
this defeat the very thing we have in mind; as
when pruning is done on shrubs and trees that
bloom on the growth they made last year.
Lack of discrimination in this respect is one
of the great causes of dissatisfaction in the subur-
ban garden, where the occasional hired man is an
artist in the mechanical use of the shears, using
the tool faithfully and persistently, but disas-
trously. Far better, indeed, not to prune at all
than to prune improperly. It should be re-
membered that pruning is an artificial means
to a certain end; and is not a necessity toa plant’s
well being from its own point of view. The
average man-with-the-shears traveling around
the suburban districts simply does not know.
The man who does know, the skilled gardener,
is usually not accorded the standing that his
training, skill, and knowledge ought to justify.
This is perhaps less noticeable on the small place
than it is on the large one, running into many
acres where the gardener or superintendent is
the responsible agent in the operation of a large
machine, representing, frequently, a very con-
siderable investment in money. He is paid
generally, not for what he knows, but for what
the man who does not know is content to work
for, and because the employer does not dis-
criminate. It is so easy for a man to call himself
a gardener when he is nothing but a laborer in
a garden, or a garden helper, and is no more
capable of operating the garden in proper rela-
in .
tion to the home than the oiler on a locomotive
is capable of operating the machine on which he
works in relation to its possible effectiveness.
Just as the laborer is worthy of his hire, so also
is the trained gardener whose knowledge roams
over many fields cf applied science. Of course
there are grades in the ranks of the professional
gardener and a capable skilled man in his “‘pro-
fession”’ cannot be had for the wages of a stable
and furnace attendant. When the responsibility
to the investment of a country place is considered a
wage of $150 to $200 a month indeed is notequal to
what the same employer will pay to a position of
similar investment in his business. Why?
The Philosophy of Planting °
ERHAPS a timely thought, and one
that is not nearly as self-explanatory
as it sounds, is Why plan to plant,
anyway? Perhaps this argument sug-
gests itself: The world, just released from the
trials of a great war is all unsettled; this country
is similarly in a state of transition, in mid-channel
between the eras of things as they were and as
they are going to be: why not wait until every-
thing settles down into a normal routine before
making any more plans, even as to the develop-
ment of our little garden and grounds?
Well, suppose everyone took that stand; sup-
pose bankers and business men, farmers and finan-
ciers, statesmen and soldiers all decided not to
do anything definite until things had “settled
down.” How long would it take the country
to get somewhere under such conditions, if indeed
we can conceive of its getting anywhere at all?
No, the need of to-day in America is, for every
single person to keep busy, to get busy, to ac-
complish something no matter how small, to
plan something no matter how restricted its
sphere of influence. Only out of such activity,
confused though it may be for a time can there
evolve the big forward movement that is to carry
the nation to its destiny.
And so, switching our train of thought from
world considerations to the matter of our twenty
by fifty foot gardens, our part in the reconstruc-
tion play is to till and develop, to beautify and
make fruitful the little pieces of ground over
which we have been given stewardship. If we
have room and.the needed sunlight for an apple
tree between the house and the drive, let’s plant
it this spring without fail. If there was a four
foot strip along the fence that grew nothing but
weeds last summer, let us see to it that 1919 finds
it supporting berry bushes or grape vines or
Hollyhocks. If the lot next door is littered with
tin cans or clumps of burdock or piles of plaster
and building refuse, because “nobody owns it
or is interested,” let’s create an interest a little
broader than our own frontage and clean the
place up. Perhaps it could be made into a
school garden; perhaps it could be codperatively
induced to produce a year’s supply of potatoes
for three or four families; at the very least it
could be sown to grass and decked with a few
shrubs and saplings so that when the boys from
our town come back from over there they will
not be able to find any where in their native vil-
lage conditions that will bring back to their
minds pictures of blighted France and Belgium.
That is one argument for more planting this
spring than ever before: namely, the need of con-
tributing to the reconstruction campaign, not
only the reconstruction of devastated territory,
but also the further development of our own un-
threatened acres in like degree. Another is the
fact that the creation of more beauty in our en-
vironment in the form of more flowers and shrubs
and vines and trees and lawns is in itself a justi-
fiable accomplishment—
“Tf eyes were made for seeing,
Then Beauty is its own excuse for being.”
as Emerson puts it.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
.
FrepruarRy, 1919
And of course there are the material arguments
—the need and value of food crops raised in our
dooryard, whose abundance, freshness, quality
and cheapness are all rewards for physical effort
that is in itself a boon that the city flat dweller
would give a good deal to enjoy. Going a step
farther in the direction of materialism, we can
recall that should it ever be necessary to consider
selling a property, a well thought out, carefully
executed planting scheme adds considerably
to its real estate value.
But after all, one of the richest rewards of all,
is the inspiration, the stimulus, the encourage-
ment that comes from contact with growing
things, from the knowledge that we are helping
to create something, helping to make it grow, and
blossom, and bear fruit. Any one who has
watched a child of the tenements foster and
cherish a poor spindly geranium in an old to-
mato can; or who has seen the glow of righteous
pride flood the face of the boy or girl champion of
a garden club as he or she receives well-deserved
recognition; knows what this can mean. And if
one’ sad little plant or a tiny patch of school
garden can bring such joy into the heart of a
child, how much more can we receive and be
thankful for in the productive, systematic tilling
of a whole garden! Indeed, the puzzle is, not
why plant so much, but rather how can we help
planting more, and more, and more?
When Northern gardeners bemoan the dull
cold days and the colder nights of winter that
hold their gardens frost bound and idle, they
should recall with gratitude that where plants
are still growing, so also are their enemies. As
late as the middle of December the extensive
trucking sections of Virginia reported serious
injury to young cabbage plants by lice. Farther
south, in Georgia and South Carolina, the acreage
in early cabbage is considerably reduced on ac-
count of a scarcity of seed and young plants.
Douglas Spruce for France.—The United States
has recently made a present to the French
Republic of all the Douglas Fir tree seed that
could be obtained anywhere in the ‘country.
This gift, which it is hoped will play an important
part in the reforesting of the devastated sections
of France, amounted to something less than a
bushel of seed, which, however, represents many
thousands of trees. Itis being conveyed overseas
by P. S. Ridsdale, Secretary of the American
Forestry Association. Experiments will be con-
ducted to ascertain in just what parts of France
this valuable timber tree will thrive best.
A manure pit doesn’t cost money; it saves
money. The value of the manure saved when
stored in pits will equal at least 5 per cent. on the
pit investment. Where manute is stored in
loose, flat piles, the loss by leaching and decay
in six months amounts to from 30 to 60 per cent.
say the soil fertility workers at the New York
state college of agriculture.
Water tight pits of concrete are the best means
of preserving manure. They should hold the
liquid, and keep the solid material nearly, if not
quite, saturated. It is not necessary that such
a pit have aroof. A roof is necessary only where
there is no pit to hold the leachings. Saturation
prevents heating, which is a potent source of loss.
‘The normal rainfall on the manure will offset
evaporation and insure better saturation.
Milch cows and horses will together produce a
little less than a ton of manure a month to a
thousand pounds of live weight. It will weigh
from 50 to 70 pounds a cubic foot depending upon
the packing and the degree of saturation; a ton
will require about 33 cubic feet of storage space.
With to-inch walls and a 3-inch bottom, at
65 cents a cubic foot, excavation, reinforcements,
and other costs will be about $25 to $30 an
animal—or $4.50 a ton storage capacity.
<
.
“FEBRUARY, 1919
Team
Work that Tells.—Several
about the work of the St. Thomas Horticultural
Society have come as a result of your editorial
of last November and we expect some profit from
the exchange of ideas from organizations in Texas °
inquiries
and lowa. We are putting on a ‘“‘drive” for
3,000 members this spring. I am sending a
snapshot entitled “conservation.” Our society
solicits donations of stable manure and these
are conveyed to a pile on the outskirts of
the city where they are allowed to rot, being
frequently turned to hasten decomposition.
At our request the city council drew two
hundred loads of leaves last fall. Manure and
leaves are mixed and when thoroughly rotted
is applied to the society’s beds or sold in small
lots to our members. ‘The idea may not be new
to societies but if not the practise is rare.—F. E.
Bennett, St. Thomas, Ont., Horticultural Society.
Organization work to the benefit of the home gardener at St.
‘Thomas, Ontario. Even the city government is brought into line
Down with the Slugs.—There are two pests
_that I have fought for several years, and begin
to feel that I am on the wrong side of the battle.
However I’m not ready to cry for peace! It’s
the Angle Worm and the Snail that are driving
me wild—especially the snail—they have de-
‘stroyed my high bush peas for the past three
years; then they take the Bush Limas; and lastly
they have worked havoc with my celery and
celery cabbage. I find them imbedded deep in
under several layers of the outer leaves, totally
destroying much that would be edible otherwise.
I have laid traps for them—shingle, or anything
that will furnish a little shade and dampness,
during the heat of the day. Then they work
nights, during midsummer I found them im-
bedded deeply in the rhubarb crowns; they
seemed to do no harm there, but were resting
for the night’s work. Possibly. I have not the
right name for them, locally they are called
snail or slugs, they look like a chunk of putty,
inactive—but wait till dark! Near the wood
pile, I placed four or five settings of celery cab-
bage but had to give up the game, beaten. If
there is any good advice on this question, it
will certainly be appreciated. My garden
grounds are rather low and are surrounded on
two sides by sod. I have air slacked lime and
sulphur in barrels, would either of them do the
work, or would their combination be better,
and in what quantities on a 100-foot square plot?
Chas. B. Comstock, Il.
—The Department of Agriculture has devoted
one of its recent Farmers’ bulletins—Number
959—to garden slugs, especially the spotted
variety which is a frequent cause of more or
less extensive’ damage in gardens, greenhouses,
and mushroom cellars. As control measures,
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
the author of the bulletin suggests (1) the use of
baits—pieces of boiled or baked potato for in-
stance—sprinkled with white arsenic; (2) the
frequent cleaning up of premises where the slugs
are numerous (especially the removal of all bits
of wood, dead leaves, and other refuse under
which they could hide in the daytime); and (3)
the use of dusty materials such as slaked lime,
finely powdered salt, and road dust as barriers
around mushroom beds, benches, etc. Soot,
which gardeners in England and on the continent
have long used against these pests, would un-
doubtedly prove equally valuable over here,
whenever and wherever it can be obtained in
sufficient quantities.—£d.]
Shirley Poppies.—What Mrs. Brownson has
to say about her Shirley Poppies leads me to
send a note about mine. For several years
past I have not sown seed in the spring. I de-
pend on their sowing themselves. They come
up all over the garden and go through the winter
without protection. At one place in the centre
where I have tried various vegetables without
success they were growing this fall, a mass of
tender green. There is only a thin covering of
earth over the rocks, with little pockets in be-
tween, but Shirley Poppies and Portulaca thrive
there. One would not expect anything with
such delicate foliage to survive the winter. This
is Maryland to be sure, but we are five hundred
feet above sea level and every now and then the
mercury falls several degrees below zero. Last
winter was exceptionally severe, here as else-
where; yet where the snow disappeared the young
plants were there ready to begin flowering.
All that is needed is to thin them to stand eight
or ten inches apart. I have found that ‘they
are more stocky and sturdy when they grow in
this way than when sown in the spring. And,
besides, they get their blooming done befcre the
very hot weather comes. When I see a fine plant
that I would like in some other place I take it
up with a great ball of earth so that the root is
not exposed, replant it, give it plenty of water
and perhaps protect it from the sun for a short
time. They seem to grow larger and the flowers
last longer if planted where they are shaded from
the sun during the hottest part of the day.—
Sarah E. Gibson, Hagerstown, Maryland.
1
That Rose-bug Again.—Mr. Swift in a recent
number wants to find out how to get rid of the
rose-bug. I have been fortunate in that I
have been bothered with them but very little
and last year none at all. Of course, like every-
body, I always pick them off but that is a hard
proposition if the quantity is large. I attribute
my freedom from the pests to the fact that I
make a practice of applying wood-ashes all around
my bushes several times during the year. The
caustic liquid which are formed by the action of
water, I understand destroys the larvae. The
same effect is brought about by the sprinkling
of coal-ashes.—L. A. Malkiel, N. Y.
Real Onions!—There are two varieties of
the large Spanish type, namely, American
Prizetaker and Denia listed with the leading
Seedsmen. Eight of these onions set side by
side measure just about one yard in length. I
sowed the seed March first in flats, using a light
soil well screened. During the month of April
the tops were clipped with a pair of sharp shears.
(This helps to estabjish a good root system);
they are then transplanted to thumb pots placing
one seedling in each pot and placed in hotbed.
About the last week in April these are set out
to the permanent place in garden about 43
inches spart. They will do best on a soil of
sandy loam type that has been heavily manured
and spaded or plowed the previous fall.
It is essential that you use at least a 4-8 fer-
tilizer at the rate of 1,coo pounds to acre. If
nitrogen or potash cannot be obtained have at
15
least three pounds to a hundred square feet of
well pulverized acid phosphate, this element
helps to mature the bulbs. °
Fit the soil well with hand rake or harrow,
mark out rows about fifteen inches apart and
ridge very slightly, set the plants about five
inches apart in the row. Give frequent culti-
vation, as level as possible; never allow them to
become dry as the slightest check will retard
their growth. Water with hose during drought.
When the onions commence to bottom, adjust
your hand cultivator to remove the soil, being
careful not to injure or bruise the bulbs. [|
again took first prize at the New York State
You can do as
Real onions!
Eight of them measure a yard.
well!
Fair with five handsome Prizetaker onions.
Let’s grow more Onions, and grow them well.—
M. Speege!, Lwwingston Co..N.Y.
If Amorpha canescens bore a Chinese or a
Japanese label, and had been introduced with
the proper amount of “‘eclat,” it probably would
be sought out by hundreds of gardeners. Being,
however, a native American plant, it is commonly
neglected. In the West where this plant has
its home, it is called the Lead Plant. It belongs
to the Pea family and in the Mississippi valley,
where it is found on low hills and prairies from
Minnesota south to Texas, it grows three or four
feet tall. One of the yery few specimens in’
the Eastern States is growing in the shrub garden
of the Arnold Arboretum, where it thrives as
well as on its native heath. It is really a re-
markably handsome plant, and is rendered con-
spicuous by the color of its foliage, which is
indicated rather faintly by its name. It has
an additional merit in the fact that it does not
flower until the middle of July. The flowers
themselves are violet colored, and borne in great
numbers on clustered terminal spikes.—£. J. F.
A Plant for Sun and Sand.—Wild Bergamot,
(Monarda fistulosa), is one of those natives that
seem to lose their weedy appearance when met
with growing in bold masses. When thus used,
however, it becomes an excellent plant for a
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) redeeming a dry sandy
bank alongside a railroad track ;
16 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
sandy, sunny location where for instance even
tough wiry grasses grow but sparsely. In the
photograph we see this plant growing, a joyous
mass of color, against a railroad embankment.
The embankment is high and dry, a barren fill for
which nevertheless, nature finds suitable vegeta-
tion and pleasing color. The season was a dry
one and yet here it flourished on this most un-
promising slope. Wild Bergamot gets along
with less water than its relative Oswego Tea
(Monarda didyma) a perennial some nurserymen
are growing for the market. It would not be
advisable to grow Monarda fistulosa indiscrim-
inately in the border, its color, a rose-purple
to white is against it for that use; but, for some
unpromising location where color is so much de-
sired, 1t is a plant that can be used with a cer-
tainty of success. Seeds are easily obtained since
the plant is fairly plentiful and a free bloomer.—
C. L. Meller, N. D.
That Aster Louse Again.—Another correspon-
dent in the August number writes of the Aster
louse. Perhaps my experience may be helpful.
For years we had hopefully sowed Aster seed
and had as regularly been disappointed, as the
roots were invariably attacked by lice, and the
plants stunted. Two years ago I determined
to get the best of them if possible, and reasoned
that tobacco tea should be as efficacious to lice
on the roots as well as to those on the leaves.
So at intervals of a week or two during the sum-
mer I applied tobacco tea. I made a hole beside
each plant and poured in about a cup of the tea.
It was back-breaking work, but I was rewarded
by fine sturdy plants and handsome blooms.
The tobacco probably acted as a fertilizer also.- I
followed this same plan a year ago with similar
results. Last fall I'‘thought I would get rid of
the lice in the soil in advance, and so save the
labor this summer. I applied lime plentifully
to the plot of ground designed for Asters and in
addition cast tobacco stems thickly over it.
These remained all winter and in the spring were
dug in. Thinking I was rid of the pests I re-
laxed my efforts this season, but the lice are still
there, and I have but a few fine plants, having
lost many. Now, can any one tell us what will
kill the insects over the winter? The tobacco
tea would be much better applied to the roots
than would the kerosene emulsion suggested
by your correspondent. Of course there would
be no advantage in spraying the entire plant.—
G. H. S.
After Peace Came, in France.—There is
little to write as we have settled down on this
little compact farm-town waiting for the move
toward home. ‘The old women clatter by with
bundles of faggots, a steam truck with a blue
coated poilu, a shawled girl with a flock of sheep
and a dog, a stooped and bearded man driving a
cart drawn by three horses tandem hitched, the
herd of cattle, the waddling flock of ducks or
geese, and then of course a clutter of khaki or
blue denim, all pass through the narrow streets.
That is the life in this once quiet village, more
farmy than those in southern France; all the yards
are on the street and all the barns open
thereon—so picture the rest.
There are no sidewalks and the many
little stores are merely divided off from
the family living room with its big man-
tel shelf and tiny fire, its cook-pots and
swinging slabs of bacon, the whole lit
by one much crowded window. An
occasional pot of Chrysanthemums in
full bloom gives a bright touch and
very rarely a Rose or Grape is trained
up against the wall, growing out of a
mere nick inthe pavement. . .. .
Aside from the villages the country has
a very New England flavor with its
wooded hills, steep little valleys and a
broad rolling plain to the southeast of us.
Curiously a knowledge of plants always give a feel-
ing of familiarity in a new place. The Hawthorns
loaded with fruit, the foaming pods of Clematis,
scattered red-fruited Dogwoods, Viburnums,
Juniper, Spruce, and lots of Beech and Horn-
beam, and garden flowers for weeds—Scabious,
Centaurea and a vivid magenta Bugbane, pic-
turesque masses of seed pods of Eryngium, Ech-
inops and Heracleumarecommon. . . . No-
vember 11th, at 3.20 p. M. the bell of the little
church rang joyously and the old Town Crier
with his drum paraded the streets, a relic of the
’70’s I suppose, and quite a picture in his old cap
and faded trousers. The townspeople were
pitifully few in number and mostly children.
Very sober, the majority with us in our lack of
ecstasy. I suppose it was the result of previous
rumors. I was glad the sun came out to give a
certain cheer to the muddy village. It is muddy
not to be compared to our farm mud but just a
nasty sticky surface affair. . . France
may not have our scarlets often in her fall col-
oring, but the vineyards give blocks of yellow,
of ochre, and of bronze; and there is the green-
est of grass in the meadows, while here there are
many a grove of yellowed Chestnuts.—Extracts
from a letter from R. S. Sturtevant, A. E. F., of
Wellesley Hills, Mass.
The Garden Magazine is a necessity to me.
I get valuable suggestions in every number.
The most helpful articles are those that are prac-
tical and for just the ordinary gardener, such as
the recent Iris articles and the one on Gladiolus.
It is inspiring to learn of what other gardeners
have accomplished. I get a great deal of
pleasure from every number, and worlds of help.
—Grace B. Robertson, Yakima, Wash.
Our Own Fig Crop.—One of the significant
horticultural developments brought about as
a result of war curtailed importations, has been
the planting of 10,000 acres of Smyrna fig trees
in the San Joaquin Valley of California. Al-
though the present production of that state—
which represents practically the entire output
of the country—is but two thousand tons, it is
confidently expected that the increased plantings
of recent years and the additional opportunities
offered in the southwestern states generally, will
enable the United States to eventually replace
its entire imports of figs, totalling fifteen or
sixteen million pounds a year, with home-grown
fruit.
SING A SONG OF SWEET CORN
Sing a song of sweet corn,
A garden full of chard,
Four and twenty egg-plants
Growing in the yard.
When the crops are gathered
The folks can have some lunch;
Isn’t succotash a dish
To set before a bunch?
Father’s tending beets and chives,
Saving us some money;
Mother’s out among the hives
Taking of the honey;
The kids are in the garden
Pulling out the weeds.
Don’t we get a lot of food
From half a peck of seeds?
—New York State College of Agriculture News Service.
-
Eh?”
A DELICATE QUESTION
“Any one of you kids lost a ball?
Policeman:
FEBRUARY, 1919
Michigan Fruit, and Future—At a recent
meeting of the ‘Michigan Horticultural Society
in Detroit, I was greatly impressed by the fine
color of the fruit displayed. We have heard it
declared that Michigan apples were far ahead of
western fruit in flavor but that the Wolverine
product lacked color; yet I would judge that
the Westerners have a close competitor in the
latter trait. The management of the Agricul-
tural College displayed some rare specimens.
Their Tolman Sweets were not as large as those
grown in New York, nor do Kings reach the
Empire State’s maximum of this variety. Of
dark colored fruit Nero was the richest shown.
Of the different growers’ exhibits the most re-
curring kinds were Northern Spy and Steele’s
Red. Rhode Island Greening seemed identical
to New York’s best. The Baldwin was notice-
able for its near absence. Summing it all up the
most attractive and the most popular Michigan
apple (by the criterion of this exhibit) is the
Northern Spy. The local nurseries seem to be
promoting Steele’s Red but I understand that
often it is painfully slow in growth. I believe
that the apple has a great future in Michigan.
The native apple thrives luxuriantly here and
has been made the state flower. The land that
grew the great Pine trees should be capable of
growing other big things under proper culture
and fruit will no doubt be a major portion of
che future output. When ocean vessels come up
to the lakes through the proposed waterways
fruit for export will receive less handling and
many lines will be kept busy as fruiters. The
half a million acres of cut over lands, now so
comparatively easy to possess, will some day be
planted largely to orchards, Michigan offers a
great share of the solution of Uncle Sam’sreturn- |
ing soldier problem. The state is sending to. |
Europe this spring, Mr. John T. Gibson of the
Western Michigan Development Bureau, to give
lectures and movie entertainments to advertise
‘Michigan as a place for new settlers and to ex-
pand the market for Michigan apples. Last
year Michigan apples sold for $7.co per barrel
in England.—U’. R. Perrine, Detroit, Mich.
American Grown Seed.—During the first
year or two of the war, before the United States
rolled up its sleeves and proceeded to show just
what it could do for itself and in behalf of its
allies and democracy, one of the causes of appre-
hension in the minds of American gardeners was
the seed supply. In view of the extent to which
we imported seed—especially vegetable seed—
from Europe the closing of this source of supply
was a serious matter. Serious, that 1s, w2ti/—
we began to produce not only enough for our-
selves, but also a large surplus with which to meet
the needs of countries who could neither buy nor
raise it. Thus in 1918, the United States became
not a seed importing nation, but an exporting
one, to the tune of several’ million pounds of
lettuce, turnip, beet, pea, tomato and other vege-
table seed. And it is anticipated that another
year will see the amount of seed exported at
least doubled, without in the least infringing upon
the supplies required for the greatly increased
gardening activities of 1919.
Mammoth Cabbage from Electrified
Seed.—Recalling the various experi-
ments that have been reported in this
country on the effect of electricity for
increasing crop growth—none of which
seemed ever to give any really practical
and useful results—it is interesting to
note in Gardening Illustrated of Eng-
land, an account of some Savoy cab-
bages ‘‘grown from electrified seed.”’-
One of these measured four feet one
inch across and weighed 13% pounds, as
compared with plants in an adjoining
row grown from untreated seed which
weighed from two to three’pounds apiece.
* Of course ee don’t find the wealth of popular showy flowers where the sun does not shine, but the
Day Lily, the Plantain Lily, Variegated Vinca and Geranium accomplish a lot
Some of the low growing trees and certain shrubs seem to get along with little direct light, and indeed
our native Hawthorns are good tempered enough either way
Contriving for Flowers in the Shade c.t. metzer
O NEED to be despondent if the bright
sunshine does not reach your flower
border, for after all there are a few
plants that will actually thrive in
heavy shade; and the Plantain Lily or Funkia
must be placed near the head of the list. They
run in three sizes, so to speak, from the smallest
with its narrow leaf (Funkia lancifolia) that holds
its flowers from a foot to eighteen inches high
(with a leaf spread of about the same number of
inches in diameter), to the tallest, the Corfu
Lily, that under favorable conditions will grow
into a specimen plant three feet all round. Then
there is the variety intermediate in size generally
listed as Funkia coerulea. One picture shows
Funkia lancifolia growing against the north side
of a house where the west sun is prevented from
reaching it by a banking of Tartarian Honey-
suckle and Mock Orange. So all the direct sun-
light the plants ‘receive is a little from the east,
and not much of that, for the sun soon shifts
far enough to the south for the house to shade
the plants. Yet here these Funkias have grown
for the past six years, gaining in thriftiness each
year. To the extreme left of the border may be
seen several pieces of the same plant newly set
out. These are of the same size as the others
were when first set out.
Behind the Funkia may be observed the grass-
like foliage of the Orange Day Lilies (Hemerocallis
fulva). It does very well and blooms nicely
in this location of dense shade and a heavy soil.
The Lemon Lily (Hemerocallis flava) is not as
happy as in shade, it needs more sun. This
combination of Funkia coerulea and Hemerocallis
fulva gave me bloom against the north side of a
porch where trees added to the intensity of the
shade.
Observe the window boxes. The sun loving
Geranium (variety S. A. Nutt) blooms tolerably
here in the almost complete absence of any direct
sunlight. And the way the variegated Myrtle
vine (Vinca) thrives in such a location is truly
surprising. Some of the vines even bloomed.
Many of the so called Daisies that were tried
proved a failure in these window boxes. Ex-
perience would indicate that for the window
boxes on the shady side of a house Geraniums
and Vinca vines make a reliable combination.
The native River Grape (Vitis vulpina), i
flourishing here against the north side of ae
house and easily making a growth of more than
six feet a year. All it demands is plenty of water.
It may be of interest to add that this picture
was taken on a quiet evening when the sun was
low and its rays almost parallel to the ground.
Our native Hawthorns (Crataegus) do well in
shade. They are naturally slow growers and
they seem to grow about as fast against the north
side of*a wall as anywhere else. Their bloom
17
here is every bit as abundant as in the open
though their fruit does not seem to set as well,
but then Hawthorns appear not to set much
fruit anyway until they have attained some
degree of maturity. The Hawthorn and Wood-
land Rose make an excellent combination, grace-
ful and free, where shade seems to be too dense
for most other shrubs. Our picture taken in
the evening, almost in twilight, shows what a
pretty effect a Hawthorn is “capable of against
the north side of a house.
Canadian Wood Violets will flourish wherevér
the most shade loving Ferns will grow. The
foliage that covers the ground well peeps forth
early i in spring. Its bloom that fairly twinkles
against the green background lasts for almost a
month. Once established this plant will take
care of itself, in fact I have had a border of it
accidentally all cultivated to pieces with the
net result that the plants came up thicker than
ever!
Spiraea Vanhouttei has done well planted in
a hedge directly beneath a row of spreading
Boxelder trees. One could perhaps notice a little
openness of bloom and a little slowness of growth
in these bushes as compared with those growing
in more sunlight, yet, all things considered, the
verdict must be that these Spireas have done
very well during the six years that they have
been growing under the shade of the trees.
The World’s Best for Our Own Gardens—I
E. I. Farrington Tells of Some Worthwhile Trees and Shrubs That Remain Hidden in the Nurseries Because They Are Not
‘‘Popular’”—Not Speculative Opinions, but the Results of Years of Selection, Trial, and Proof
UST because a tree comes from a foreign
land is no proper reason for planting
it around an American home. Certainly
it would be a great mistake for any one
deliberately to ignore the native trees of America
in favor of those from other countries. At the
same time, some of the introduced trees have
so many good qualities that any one is justified
in planting them. Judgment is to be based
solely on their fitness and merits. The list
of good trees generally recognized is none too
long, and really valuable acquisitions ought to
be welcomed. It is fortunate that there is an
imstitution like the Arnold Arboretum, in Boston,
where tree immigrants can be tested under the
same conditions as they will find in the average
home grounds. Jt is unfortunate, on the other
hand, that few nurserymen seem willing to
propagate the newer things and give them to the
public. Perhaps this work will be stimulated
however as a result of the foreign plant exclusion
order that has recently been issued from Wash-
ington.
Among the great number of foreign trees
which have been planted in the United States,
there are a dominant few which stand out as
particularly desirable for American grounds.
Close to the top of the list is the Acanthopanax
(Kalopanax ricinifolium), which was introduced
into this country by the Arnold Arboretum in
1892, and which promises to become one of the
most valuable decorative trees which can be
planted here. This Acanthopanax is one of
the big trees of Northern Japan, where it often
grows seventy or eighty feet high. It belongs
to the Aralia family, and has leaves reminding
one of those of the Castor-bean. Among the
most distinctive trees which can be planted
in America, it in many ways suggests the tropics.
Those planting this tree will have a specimen
wholly different from anything found in their
neighbors’ gardens. In midsummer it has
small white flowers, produced in clusters often a
foot wide, and these flowers are succeeded by
shining black fruits, which last until winter
comes. As this tree is now being sold by nursery-
men, it bids fair to become widely distributed.
Growing in an ordinary soil it yet prefers one
inclined to be moist and in its home reaches
a height of eighty feet. The Arboretum trees
raised from seed all attained 35 feet in 25 years.
Another Japanese tree which deserves a pro-
minent place in American collections is Cercidi-
phyllum japonicum. This makes a large tree
in Japan; indeed, is probably the largest decidu-
ous leaved tree to be found in that country.
Although none of the specimens in the Arboretum
have yet attained full maturity, the tree has been
proved perfectly hardy and is distinctly orna-
mental and is so far free from insects. The
shape is somewhat narrow for its height. It is
particularly attractive in the spring, for the un-
folding leaves are red, adding a bright touch
of color to the landscape. This tree is already
to be found: in a number of gardens, for it has
Hardy Rubber-Tree (Eucommia ulmoides)
comes from central China and is adapted to
general planting. It has no close relatives.
Prefers a loamy humid soil. Its upright ha-
bit and dark green ‘‘elm-like’’ leaves give it
attractive qualities
been growing in America for forty years. It
was introduced by Thomas Hogg, about 1864,
the first tree being planted in his garden in New
York. This is one of several important oriental
trees which came to America before being planted
anywhere else outside of Asia. It clothes itself
with branches down to the ground and suffers
if those are trimmed off. As the name indicates
its leaf resembles that of our Red-bud, Cercis.
Still a third Japanese tree of large size which
has been grown for some time in this country,
and the wide planting of which is merited b
its many good qualities is Prunus Sargentii. ie
1s an interesting fact that this tree came to
America from two sources. Dr. William, Sturgis
Bigelow sent seeds to the Arnold Arboretum
in 1890. Two years later Professor Sargent
found this tree growing in Northern Japan, and
collected the seeds which were also planted in the
Arboretum grounds. The Bigelow and the
Sargent trees are still growing. Later this
handsome tree was sent to Europe. Although
commonly called the Sargent Cherry, it is also
known as Prunus serrulata saghalinensis, the
name given to it by Ernest H. Wilson.
This Cherry is prized chiefly for its wonder-
ful display of blossoms in the spring, and for its
brilliant foliage in the fall. It is also a good
timber tree, and one well adapted to parks and
parking strips, making a rapid growth on any
soil that supports a cherry.
In the list of flowering trees from Asia, Malus
floribunda must have a conspicuous place. This
is one of the most satisfactory of all the ornamental
Crabapples which can be planted in American
gardens, with a wealth of blossoms every spring,
in spite of the hardest winters. While the
flowers are red when they open, they pass through
different shades until they are almost white. It
is rather curious that different individuals mani-
fest distinctly different habits. Some kinds
lose their fruit early in the fall, while others keep
it until almost spring. Several plants growing
near the Administration Building in the Arnold
Arboretum are yearly covered with yellow fruit
until the winter is well advanced. These trees
offer a winter banquet to the birds, and some-
times as many as a dozen pheasants have been
seen in a single tree at one time. It was dis-
covered by Philip F. von Siebold and taken
to Holland in 1865. Like many other older
Japanese plants, it came to this country from
Cercidiphyllum japonicum, literally the ‘“Redbud-like leaved tree of
Japan’’ is remarkable as the largest deciduous tree of Japan. It hasa
neat ‘‘finished’’ appearance
‘Phe raardy Japanese Short-leaved Fir (Abies brachyphylla or homo-
lepis) keeps its dark green color in winter, grows quickly and does well
on any ordinary soil
_ England.
FEBRUARY, 1919
The “Tree Lilacs’”” come into bloom just after the true Lilacs,
grow 25 ft. high, have white flowers. Useful in large gardens
It seems immune to conditions which
would threaten the life of many ornamental
trees, and is well adapted both for lawn plant-
ing and park decoration.
A much newer flowering tree is Cornus kousa,
which in general appearance suggests its close rel-
ative the American Dogwood.
It blooms, however, long after
our trees are out of flower. To
find a Dogwood in full bloom on
the lawn in July is an unexpected
pleasure, but one which can be
enjoyed every year if the Japan-
ese Dogwood is planted. ‘This
Cornus does not need a great
amount of room, for it seldom
grows more than twenty feet
high, so that it can be used con-
sistently for the ornamentation
of small places. The tree is a
native of Central Japan, but Mr.
Wilson has found it growing in
Western China and both Japan-
ese and Chinese plants have
flowered in the Arnold Arbore-
tum. Although {comparatively
rare, the tree is in commerce, and
is likely to obtain considerable
vogue as its merits become known.
The late ‘Admiral ,Ward had a
well developed specimen in the
garden at Roslyn, L. I.
Of course the Tree Lilacs must
not be omitted when flowering
trees from the Far East are being
discussed. In the group are
several plants from different sec-
tions and they begin to bloom just as the
true Lilacs are fading. The first to flower
is Syringa amurensis, a large shrub with flat
heads of white flowers, from Eastern Siberia,
which was introduced into cultivation by the
Botanical Garden at St. Petersburg, and sent
from there to the Botanical Garden of Harvard
College, at Cambridge, Mass. Then comes
Syringa pekinensis 25 to 30 ft. high, from North-
ern China, introduced by Dr. E. Bretschneider,
in 1882, the flower clusters of this are compara-
tively small. The last to flower is Syringa ja-
ponica, a Japanese species, seeds of which were
sent to the Arnold Arboretum in 1876 by Col.
William Clarke, at one time President of the
Massachusetts State College of Agriculture,
The Asiatic Dogwood blooms in summer!
apparently ‘‘out-of-season”’
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE | 19
who spent several years teaching in an agricul-
tural college established in Northern Japan.
This is a round topped tree of 35 feet and bark
like a cherry tree. It prefers a moist soil.
Although Tree Lilac blossoms have a disagreeable
odor similar to that of the closely related Privet
blooms, they are very attractive, being white or
yellowish-white, and borne in large clusters.
Coming later than the true Lilacs, they prolong
the season of bloom. There are many places
where these Tree Lilacs can be planted to great
advantage, and they are to be recommended for
large sized gardens throughout the North.
There is a Japanese Fir which promises to take
rank among the very best evergreens to be grown
in this country, called Abies brachyphylla, and
also Abies homolepis. This tree reached this
country by way of England, where it was intro-
duced in 1861, by James Gould Veitch. The
finest specimens to be found in the United States
are growing in the pinetum of the late Horatio
H. Hunnewell, in Wellesley, Mass., where also
are many other trees of great interest. The
largest tree there is at least fifty-five feet high,
and the branches sweep. the ground. Another
very large and handsome specimen is growing
in the Long Island garden of the late Charles
A. Dana. Few trees are handsomer at all
seasons of the year, and its violet-purple cones
add to its beauty. As this Fir has proved to be
perfectly hardy in the Northern States, it can
be planted without fear of failure.
Eastern Siberia has given us a magnificent
tree in Populus Maximowiczii, which in its na-
tive land grows to be eighty feet high, with a
trunk three or four feet in diameter. It is also
found in Northern Japan. Indeed, it was intro-
duced from the latter country, being brought to
America shortly before 1890 by Isaac Hicks &
Son, of Long Island. This is another of the very
good trees to be tested out in this country before
Europe had seen it. Coming from a very cold
region, there is every reason to believe that this
Poplar will be hardy in all the Northern States,
and through much of Canada. Professor Sar-
gent, thinks that it should make a very valuable
shade tree for states like Northern Minnesota
and the Dakotas, where few trees of large size
can be successfully grown. At any rate, it is
among the handsomest of all the Poplars, and
well worth using, but it should not be confused
with Populus suaveolens, another Siberian species
being offered by nurserymen, hardy in the cold-
est regions, also growing on the Pacific slope.
Mixed with our own spring flowering kind it gives flowers
Sargent’s Cherry, already pretty well known by name, makes a
big tree quickly and is useful in avenues, etc.
Perhaps Eucommia ulmoides, the so-called
India-rubber Tree, must take a lower rank than
the other trees mentioned, yet it is an interesting
and thrifty plant, and its large, dark green leaves
make it attractive. It hasn’t enough rubber to
give it any commercial value, but the strings
found when the leaves are pulled
apart show that the cells contain
a perceptible amount. This tree
was introduced into the United
States by the Arnold Arboretum,
where some very good specimens
are growing, and where its hardi-
ness has been demonstrated. It
came by way of England, but
was found in Con China, where
it is cultivated for the bark, yield-
ing a drug valued by the Chinese.
Zelcova serrata, Or, as it is often
called, Z. Keaki, might be a_ more
popular tree in the United States
if it had a less forbidding name.
It is not known in many nurseries,
and yet individual specimens have
been growing in this country for
agreat many years. There is one
in Barnstable County, Mass.,
which probably was planted by a
Cape Cod sea captain back from
a trip to Japan. There are also
trees in Warren, R. I., planted by
the late Dr. George R. Hall, in
1862, which produce a great many
seedlings some of which have been
saved. This is a fine tree for
avenue planting, and well adapted,
too, for lawn decoration, having a
graceful, round topped head certain to be admired.
Tt is a tree which the Japanese value very
highly because of its tough, elastic wood.
Indeed, it makes the best building timber which
the Japanese have, although it is too scarce to
be used except for temples; but it is universally
employed in the manufacture of ginrickshas.
It seems that this tree might well be grown in this
country for its extra high quality of lumber, al-
though its value as a shade tree gives it its greatest
importance now. ‘Lhe name of this tree is pro-
nounced as though spelled Zelkoua, which is the
vernacular applied to a species growing in Crete.
Epitors Note. This is the beginning of a series of articles dealing
with worth-while plant material now available for our gardens and
which merits the attention of progressive gardeners
Planting by the Weather sristow apams
‘Every Man His Own Phenologist,’’ Says this Professor Emphasizing the Principle that the Behavior of the Native Plants and
Buds is a Sounder Guide for Planting Work Than a Fixed Date on a Calendar
Observe the flowering of Japanese Clematis and so determine
the exact time for the operations of late summer
HIS has nothing to do with humps and
hollows on the human head. The
ph-r-enologist takes care of them. The
ph-e-nologist who first tried to talk about
his hobby, labelled it with a hybrid name derived
by contraction from “ phenomenon” and “ology.”
His idea was to describe the determination of the
relations existing between climatic conditions
and periodic events in the seasonal activities of
plants and animals. In short, plain words he
tried to see how the seasons, frosts, and the like
tied in with the coming of the birds amd flowers,
the ripening of fruits, and the falling of leaves.
Everybody can be a phenologist, therefore; and
many persons are even if they don’t know it!
Now comes Dr. A. D. Hopkins, forest ento-
mologist of the Department of Agriculture and
says that success in gardening depends on the
care in noting these changes in nature, and in
acting upon their suggestions.
The Most Ancient of Ideas
VERY one knows that this is no new idea.
|The very names of some of the commoner
plants indicate that they have long been recog-
nized as guides. In the Atlantic tidewater re-
gion the Shadbush blossoms told the Indians,
long before the whites came, when it was time to
fish for shad. On the Pacific Coast the Salmon-
berry blooms when the salmon are running.
When White Oak leaves are the size of squirrel
feet, says the folk-lore of some regions, it 1s safe
to plant corn (and when that is the case all other
tender crops can be planted too). When the
Blackberry is in full bloom, the home-gardener
in any region where they grow may know that
frost danger is safely past, and tender plants
may be set out.
Plants are a better index than birds because
birds can be fooled; robins will come to a given
locality on almost the same date every year, even
though a late snow may starve many after they
arrive. Of course, frost may brown the Mag-
nolia blossoms, but this is exceptional and of little
consequence in a long period of years.
Even though Dr. Hopkins has worked out a
rule, to say nothing of a series of maps and dia-
grams, he says that the index given by the native
plants is the best to use. The season in general,
according to his rule, varies four days for each one
degree of latitude, five degrees of longitude, and
four hundred feet of altitude. Thus, lines of equal
plant development for a given date would slant
in a northwesterly direction from their point of
origin on the Atlantic coast to their end on the
Pacific, with variations for the mountain chains
and the valleys over which they pass. ‘This is
in accordance with the common knowledge that
points on the Pacific Coast have a warmer cli-
mate than those directly east of them on the
Atlantic Coast. Los Angeles, about nine degrees
north of Miami, Florida, has about the same sort
of sub-tropical vegetation; the time for seeding
winter wheat in the neighborhood of Omaha,
Nebraska, about halfway across the continent and
about 44% degrees farther north, is the same as
that for the neighborhood of Lynchburg, Virginia.
With the diagrams issued by the Department
of Agriculture, all this can be worked out. It
has been worked out in respect to winter wheat
planting to thwart the Hessian fly. Its practical
application is demonstrated. Posters displayed
in the farming regions of New York, Pennsyl-
vania, New Jersey, Virginia, North Carolina,
West Virginia, Tennessee, Indiana,
Nebraska, Oklahoma, gave for each county the
dates after which winter wheat should be sown
to avoid the Hessian fly. These posters urged
the destruction of all volunteer wheat which
had come up before these dates, and asked the
cooperation of all neighbors in a community
to sow just after the fly-free dates, because one
early-sown field may infest all others the next
spring. The map-calendar poster emphasizes
the point that “in a normal season” the winter
wheat should not be planted before the earliest
date given, but that seed should be in the ground
before the last date.
The Inflexible Calendar
HE calendar, like most hard-and-fast rules
in black-and-white, cannot always be re-
lied upon without some other guide where opera-
tions are so dependent upon the hazards of
weather as in the business of growing plants.
Nature’s old reliable clock: When the leaf of the White Oak is
the size of a squirrel’s foot it is safe to plant corn
Doctor Hopkins, who devised the map-calendar,
is not the scientist of the stage, and of popular
tradition. Having been also a farmer, he knows
that a good farmer derives from his ordinary
farm practices a fund of useful information that
is quite as reliable as the carefully worked out
formulas of the research worker. ‘Therefore,
says he, use the calendar as a general guide;
then if you have the tall, late Goldenrod in your
neighborhood and a common white Japanese
Clematis vine on the house porches, these will
furnjsh an index that will vary with normal and
abnormal seasons, and thus be more reliable than
anything that can be put upon paper. He has
found that winter wheat sown between the time
of full bloom of the tall, late Goldenrod and the
20
Illinois, -
When the Blackberry is in full bloom it is safe for the gardener,
in any region, to set out tender pants
time when the flowers are nearly all gone from the
Clematis, is not only the best time for the wheat
but it will be free from damage by the fall attack
of the Hessian fly.
Nature-made Spray Calendars
ANOTHER example of the same thing is
shown in the recent revisions of the spray-
ing calendars.
that gave dates for a whole state is now obsolete,
such a calendar is manifestly unreliable, for
example, in a state like New York, more than
300 miles long from north to south and from
east to west, with climate locally modified to a
marked degree by the lakes Erie and Ontario,
and by the so-called Finger Lakes. The apple
spray calendar now issued by the State college of
agriculture is based not at all upon dates, but
upon the development of the bud, blossom, and
fruit of the apple itself. It is simpler, more re-
liable and more easily remembered—any one can
keep in mind the simple fact that “the calyx
spray gets the codling moth.”
There is a safest and best time for the recur-
ring farm and garden practices to prevent or
control the damage done by insect pests, and
possibly by plant diseases and to otherwise
secure the best crop. This time may vary from
year to year according to the season; and the best
index as to the variation 1s the behavior of local
plants and animals.
A New Nature Study
(CLOSE observation by each gardener or by
local groups (such as garden clubs), will
give recorded and interpreted periodical dates
that can be based each year on the performance
of nature all about.
Here is a new incentive and impetus to nature-
study that will have a very practical reaction.
If the blossoming of Joe-pye weed and the flaming
of the Sumac leaves are the signal for important
garden operations, they will be noted with a
keener interest than is given by the mere delight
in their beauty. Possibly, too, an interest in
their useful significance may lead to a new appre-
ciation of their aesthetic quality.
Let each gardener note the flowering or other
striking event in the life of the nearby wild or
cultivated plants in connection with the planting
of certain crops, and then note results with that
crop, as to development, maturity, and yield
when harvested. When definite maximum re-
sults are obtained with any crop, and a relation
established between these results and a striking
phase of local plant life, this established index
will give the exact time for any planting opera-
tion in any locality,
The old-style spray calendar.
f
‘a
4
Some Lime Loving Alpines 3, w. £. pavis, §.
[Eprror’s Note:
and other plants that properly jit into the rock garden.
ing 15 the newest phase of garden work to become popular.
have really nothing at all to do with that convenient source of blame; but are due to a lack of exact knowledge as to the soil requirements of the plants.
author of this article has experimented for many years and has solved a great many of the problems.
As the rock garden grows 1m interest and appeal the gardener will naturally want to extend his acquaintance among the Alpine flora
So far, there 15 but little exact information available in American literature because skilled rock garden-
In fact, it 1s only just beginning to catch hold. Fanlures with Alpines often ascribed to the climate
The
In Tue Garpven Macazine of last September he dis-
cussed the building of a rockery and gave a list of a hundred plants that could be successfully raised from seed. In the present article he presents us with a
group of plants that have a similar cultural requirement—insistance on lime in the soil.
the Alpines in cultural groups.
with many plants—otherwise it 1s far betier to attempt some other group.|
N A general way alpine plants may be
divided into three sections: 1, those whose
culture demands that there be lime in the
soil in which they are planted, known as
lime loving alpines; 2, those which do not make
this requirement; and 3, those which protest
against any soil of a calcareous nature. Soil
constitution is really important in growing
alpines.
The formation of a considerable portion of the
Alps is of limestone and such alpine treasures
as we bring to our gardens must have a soil similar
to that of their native habitat if they are to
flourish and be content in their artificial home.
On the other hand, those jewels hailing from
granitic mountain structure will not in_ many
instances tolerate any lime whatever. This is
abundantly illustrated by the Campanula family
which are, for the most part, lovers of lime,
although Campanula Allioni, C. pulla, C. pul-
loides and C. excisa detest it to such an extent
that their death is the eventual outcome. It is
“the study of how much lime these shy little
“ children of the hills” ask for (whether it be much,
some or none) that creates no small part of the
fascination of alpine gardening.
If we love these exacting inhabitants of the
mountains we must satisfy their many idiosyn-
crasies and try to please their many moods.
It must also be remembered that whereas the
term “alpine’’ originally signified those plants
which inhabited the European Alps, the term
is now more widely employed and horticulturally
embraces all mountain plants whether they dwell
in the Carpathians, the Pyrenees, the Himalayas,
or our own Rocky and Appalachian ranges, and
so the study of a suitable soil for their well-doing
is a matter of much thought and experiment.
There are those who have very acceptable
gardens, yet disregard this subject and who
contend that they can do quite well enough
without lime for their plants. But in each and
every instance it is to be observed that those
characteristic alpines—without which there can
be no true alpine’ garden—are
either languishing or dead—or
have never even been introduced,
and consequently such a garden
is most incomplete, being com-
posed exclusively of such occu-
pants as do not crave the lime.
Such anindifferent home is quite
_ likely to become the rendezvous for
Sedum glaucum flourishes in a limestone cre-
vice
Phlox subulata rosea, the rose-colored Moss Pink, is not seen in
perfection unless lime is present
the mountain rabble, but the fastidious aristo-
crats of the rocky altitudes would not condescend
to abide there for very long. Their demands
must be met, if they are to be happy so far
removed from their native haunts; and he who
does not consider the wants of these treasures
must go without them or regard his results as
only a shadow of what might have been!
A.lime-impregnated soil will not cause a plant
to grow more rapidly nor will it necessarily
create a more robust constitution, but it does
create charm and beauty. That division of
Saxifrages, the Euaizoons, known as the Silvery
or Encrusted section, could not be without the
presence of lime, which, working through the
foliage, is the cause of neti being encrusted with
an edging of silver. The Kabschias or Cushion
Saxifrages which are the loveliest jewels of the
race demand lime if they would remain content in
captivity. The Mossies are not so exacting.
They will joyously partake of it if given the
opportunity, but if not, they do not complain
and actually do quite well.
The sentimental Edelweiss (Leontopodium
alpinum) in bloom in a limeless soil becomes
dowdy and a dirty pale green—but if planted
where it can drive its roots into the limestone
The well known Arabis, well called Mountain Snow and White Rock-Cress, is at its best among
limestone rock
21
i Tt 1s intended to supplement this article with others also treating
It is obvious that in regions where lime is absent it must be artificially introduced into the soil in order to obtain success
it becomes the purest of white, and the soft
velvety “‘lion’s foot” of the Flannel Flower
entices travellers to risk their lives to gather it.
In a large majority of instances it is the alpine
which thrives in sunny positions that enjoys the
iimestone; while those species which require
shade are quite likely to prefer peat and loam;
and the lime lovers which inhabit the shady
nooks and crevices are, as a general rule, less
desirous of a limey ground.
In the garden one can segregate the lime loving
plants and prepare a place for them all, or if he
has in mind some definite color scheme or other
especial arrangement, limestone pockets can
easily be prepared. But experience seems to teach
that it is more satisfactory and infinitely more
easy to invite the lime lovers into a portion of
the garden set aside exclusively for the admin-
istration of their wants.
In preparing the limestone section it should be
‘remembered that the lime used must be well
slacked and if it is old, so much the better.
Mortar from masonry and walls is ideal for this
purpose and most easily obtained and when
incorporated into the soil makes possible the
culture of the rarest of alpine gems.
A list of the more precious lime loving species
follows:
Acaena argentea. Achillea (Silvery kinds). Aethionema grandi-
florum. Alyssum argenteum, saxatile. Androsace lanuginosa,
sarmentosa, sarmentosa Chumbyi, sempervivoides, villosa, villosa
Chamaejasme. Anemone alpina, pulsatilla. Arabis (all ‘kinds).
Aubrietia (all kinds).
Campanula “G. F. Wilson,”
Bavarica, Stansfieldi.
Daphne Cneorum. Dianthus Alpinus, caesius, neglectus, petrasus,
Pritchardi. Draba_ pyrenaica (Syn. Petrocallis pyrenaica).
Dryas octopetala. Erinus alpinus. Gentiana acaulis, brachy-
phylla, cruciata, verna. Geranium argenteum. Gypsophila
repens. Hutchinsia alpina. Leontopodium alpinum (Edel-
weiss). Phlox subnata. Potentilla nitida.
Primula Allioni, Auricula, Clusiana, integrifolia,
viscosa.
Ranunculus alpestris, montanus. Saponaria ocymoides.
Saxifraga (Cushion Section), Allioni, ambigua, apiculata, Boydit
alba, Burseriana “ Gloria,” coriophylla, dalmatica, diapen-
soides, Elizabethae, Ferdinandi Coburgi, Frederici Augusti
(thessalica), Griesbachi, juniperina, lilacina, media, nervosa,
Paulinae, petraschii, Rocheliana, Salomonii, sancta, scardica,
Stribrnyi.
Saxifraga (Silvery or Encrusted Section), Aizoon, aizoon rosea,,
altissima, carniolica, cochlearis, cotyledon, Hostii, kolenatiana,
lingulata, lingulata albida, lingulata lantas:
cana, longifolia, Macnabiana, pectinata.
Sedum acre, album, anglicum, dasyphyllum,
Ewersii, glaucum, Lydium, Nevii, oreganum,
pulchellum, Sieboldi.
Sempervivum arachnoideum, arachnoideum
Laggeri, arachoideum rubrum, arenarium,
Brauni, calcarium (Californicum), ciliatum,
cornutum, doellianum, dolomiticum, fimbri-
atum, Funkii, glaucum, globiferum, Greeni,
Heuffelii, montanum, Pittoni, pyrenaicum,
Reginae Amaliae, triste.
Silene acaulis. Veronica saxatilis,
Portenschlagiana, Portenschlagiana
marginata
Lime gives the silvery encrustation on many
Saxifrages (S. Macnabiana)
Gardening Unashamed rrances puncan
Changes Brought About by the War—New Dignity in Cultivating the Soil and Pride in Home Grown Vegetables—The New Style
in Flower Garden and Shrubbery with Return of the Fence and Hedge—Revival of the Thrifty Garden
T IS a blessed fact that the war is over,
but another blessed fact is that the war-
stimulated gardening has come to stay.
Perhaps nothing less than the exigency
of war would have shocked us into gardening
in earnest, but however that may be, the thing
has happened, and the fact that the war is over
will increase rather than lessen the garden
enthusiasm.
Everywhere, all over our country, the American
housewife and householder, suburbanite, com-
muter, folk of small towns, possessors of city
back-yards or vacant-lot farmers—all these
have learned the value of the small home-garden,
its definite help in lowering the cost of living,
the delights of it, the happiness of working in it,
and all have had a glimpse of its
immense possibilities. Not only
have they learned these things, but
they have learned them by heart.
After last summer’s experience of
the deliciousness and convenience
of home-grown produce, no house-
wife will willingly go back to the
old abject dependence on the green-
grocer and the canning factory.
Many a commuting husband dis-
‘ covered the converse of John Gil-
pin’s findings to be true, and was
o’erjoyed to find that his wife,
while bent on frugality had in fact
afforded all the household much
pleasure. Many a man last sum-
mer fared better at his own table
than ever he had fared before, and
learned how delicious corn could be
straight from the garden to the
kitchen. No longerdoesthe kitchen
garden blush unseen carefully
camouflaged by shrubbery lest its
homely presence be manifest—on
the contrary, it doesn’t blush at
all, it has become the pride of the
whole household and in fact, in all
of our suburbs all the blushing done
was by those housewives who did
not engage in kitchen gardening:
Besides this awakening of the
householder, thousands of our sol-
diers, returned from the camps, will
be beating their swords into plow-
shares—literally as well as figura-
tively—because whatever was the
profession which was theirs when
they entered camp, they will have
become gardeners also, having had
some practical experience in the
craft and gained beside a keen
sense of the bearing of the home
garden on the nation’s food supply.
Invalided soldiers will take to home
gardening as a recreation and a
means of recovery of health.
This revival in gardening which wee
have witnessed the last summer is not a revival in
the sense of a renaissance in the craft, a new bud-
ding forth of dormant interest, not at all! Itis an
old-fashioned revival, more of the Billy Sunday
order,—a very epidemic of garden enthusiasm,
involving the going a-gardening in person of
everyone who caught the fever—and almost
everyone did catch the fever. The result is
like to be a complete change in complexion of
our suburbs and small towns.
* * *
THE CHANGE in the large estates will not be so
marked. These have always had excellent
gardens, managed by competent men; the change
here will be that the owners will take a more
vital and intelligent interest in their gardens,
do more of the work themselves, be keen in
furthering the garden enterprise in their com-
munity, and busy themselves fostering home
markets, and in promoting vacant lot and school
gardening.
Our great garden revival is among the home-
staying householders, among the folk who rented
or begged or borrowed a bit of land and made
their first garden thereon—among these the
garden revival has been sweeping and striking,
and, as I said, bids fair to alter completely the
aspect of our suburbs, to make over the wilder-
nesses of our city back yards into a rose-like
blossoming and a Dorcas-like usefulness.
* * *
BEFORE THE Wak, the small, thriftily managed
garden, where every inch of space was utilized
Somehow the half-open gate breathes a welcome that is almost irresistible—perhaps because it so
decidedly seems to counteract the exclusiveness of the fence
to the best advantage, the little garden, planned
and loved and worked in by the owner, or tenant
of the place himself—this was comparatively
rare in our country. It was met with every-
where on the Continent and in the English
countryside, but when present in this country,
it was usually the work of some foreign-born
citizen, not of a son or daughter of Uncle Sam.
With us, the place, larger or smaller was planted—
either by a landscape man, or by the owner with
what skill he could command—and then every
spring furbished up a bit, put in order, and
necessary work done. The idea of the garden
as a definitely useful part of the establishment,
the joy of the cook, the sustainment of the
kitchen larder—this idea was absent. Now
however, it has taken root.
Q2
_ Yet this type of gardening was common enough
in the early days. From no less a person than
George Washington down, intelligent interest
in agriculture was held the proper study of man-
kind—especially of mankind with country hold-
ings.
City and country gardens alike were planted
with the idea of affording comforts and rich-
nesses for the table. Some of the early
Philadelphia gardens are spoken of by garden-
less contemporaries as so well stocked with fruit
and luscious vegetables that a glimpse through
the palings would make the mouth of the passer-
by to water! :
It is that type of garden whose return we shall
be privileged to witness.
* * *
"TL HERE will be plenty of friendly
rivalry among our newly-fledged
gardeners for the first lettuce and
radish, and a lively hope for the
first melons. No first year gar-
dener of last summer’s crop but
observed the tremendous advantage
of the “head start” given plants
by the use of frames, therefore
the first outward and visible sign
of our garden revival will bea great
increase among town and country
householders and suburbanites in
the use of garden-glass. Whether
coldframe or hotbed, pony-glass or
tiny or full sized greenhouse, or the
bell-glass of the Belgian gardeners
—glass in some form will become an
essential part of the garden equip-
ment.
Beside this, the smaller his place,
the more the gardener will desire
the aid of glass. The home gardener
is not usually a commercial gar-
dener. A “bumper crop” is of little
use to him compared with the con-
venience and joy of produce from
his garden at a time when, without
the aid of glass, he would be gar-
denless, the pride of having his own
when in the market prices are sky
high. Two or three frames are of
more actual value to the small place
gardener than many an extra hun-
dred ‘feet of land. They add at
least four months to his garden’s
season—two at the beginning and
two at the end—and the cost of
maintenance is slight in compari-
son to the return in produce. Many
otic potatoes and other field crops
on his small holdings, will this year
feel that he may safely leave those
to the farmer who has more land and
himself, more profitably, get frames
or perhaps a tiny greenhouseand ap-
ply himself to what one might call “de luxe” gar-
dening; that is raising plants which require special
care, but little space. The amateur gardener, espe-
cially if a woman, is likely to be more blessed
with brains than brawn, and the management of |
frames is easy and pleasant and the returns
large, compared with the labor of hoeing onions
or potatoes, which next season will probably be
plentiful enough.
* * *
BEsIDES SEEING the home-gardener blossom
into a skilled worker with garden glass, this year
will undoubtedly see a marked increase in the |
planting of fruit trees, fruiting bushes, berry-
vines, and grapes. The enthusiasm with which
the American housewife of to-day has gone
a-canning and drying and preserving, will not
4
a gardener who last year grew patri- |
Frepruary, 1919
THE GARDEN
MAGAZINE 23
“For all the thriftiness of the new gardening I doubt if there
will be any lessening in the planting of flowers’’
abate for many a year; and the children have done
ittoo! The skilful preserving of fruit has become
a matter of pride and keen interest. The house-
wife moreover is awake to its healthfulness and
high food value as never before. Especially
will she be interested in canning and preserving
her own produce.
Now that the imperative necessity of the war
has passed, the urgent need of using space for
potatoes and the like, the housewife will wish
to see a permanently thrifty garden, well-stocked,
well-balanced, well-planned, so that, as the
prayerbook says every year will come “the fruit
in due season.” We shall see strawberry beds
planted, raspberry bushes, gooseberry bushes
and blackberry vines set out; currant bushes
and the old-fashioned quince will again figure
prominently—the latter almost as lovely in flower
as the Japanese Quince. We shall perhaps see
a return to the charming practice of our grand-
mothers who were, most of them, clever and
thrifty gardeners as well as housewives, and see
currant bushes alternated with Iris and flowers
set in the vegetable rows, wherever space might
be found for them.
The interest in fruit-planting will probably
result in a greatly increased planting of dwarf
fruit trees. There is so much about the dwarf
tree to recommend it to the home-gardener whose
panting, space is small. The dwarf tree is so
overwhelmingly efficient! It can do so much
with so very little in the way of ground space
and fertilizer; it comes inte bearing sc much more
quickly than the standard nor is its care of
especial difficulty; the necessary spraying is an
easy matter from the simple fact that the tree
is four or five feet high instead of four and twenty.
The little trees afford such a fine exhibit
ground for one’s gardening skill—and the home-
gardener will wish to develop and to show his
skill. Of what use is it to go a-gardening, unless
one may go from one branch to another of the
craft and attain high skill in some chosen
specialty? To the amateur gardener, this is
the fun of it—the poetry; the needful hoeing
and weeding are the prose. And if one has the
one, why not the other?
kok Ox
Hoek ALL the thriftiness and frugality of the
new gardening, I doubt if there will be any
lessening in the planting of flowers and the setting
out of flowering shrubs and trees which form
part of our usual spring-garden activity. Less
lawn space, undoubtedly there will be—many
have plowed up lawns to plant potatoes, but
of flowers we shall have a-plenty. As never
before we shall feel the need of their loveliness
and poetry. The returning soldiers will crave,
as never before, the healing loveliness and ex-
quisiteness of the flowers to help them forget
the horror and devastation of war, they will
long to find peace and beauty in the home gar-
den—and the home gardeners will see to it that
they find it there. We shall need the ministry
of the flowers as never before.
So, as we fit the needs of all of us, our type of
“We may see the return of the fence, where the whole ground
space is given to flowers and vegetables”’
gardening will change. Instead of the park-
like aspect which characterized most of our
suburbs we shall have numbers and numbers
of charming little individual gardens. Perhaps
we may split the difference between the two
schools of garden art, and let the street side be
As never before we shall feel the lovelinees and poetry of the
flowing shrubs and trees that form part of our spring activity
given to lawn and shrubbery, -and the rear
of the house become the “garden side,” barred
off by lattice or espalier fruit from ingress by
marauding cat or dog, guarded by a high fence
or wall so that its precious citizenry may live
and flourish in safety.
. We may see a return of the fence, where the
whole ground space is given to flowers and
vegetables, as is the case now in many a Southern
city —and charming gardens, wholly delightful
as a setting for the stateliness of the old house,
are so made. Such a setting would be peculiarly
satisfying for the Colonial type of house, seen
frequently enough in the Northern suburbs and
for which the usual settingjof grass and shrubbery
seems inadequate and always makes one feel
that the house needs more room.
Perhaps, with the return of the fence, not only
the straying dogs or cats but the passer-by may
catch through the palings mouth watering
glimpses of gardens with apricot and nectarine
trees in luscious fruit such as the English Cap-
tain gazed yearningly toward through the
palings of William Egan’s Philadelphia garden
in the days before America was a Republic.
* * *
T ALL events the revival in gardening is here
to stay. Our gardens will become more
individual, more varied, for as we love them and
work in them, we shall plant—not what some
one tells us we should plant, or what our neighbor
has planted, but what we ourselves wish to have.
If we have asparagus instead of Hydrangea
paniculata, it is because the former is of more
value tous. If we plant cherry trees and quince
bushes it is because we want them—and perhaps
because Madam housewife has her mind on
cherry pies or preserved quinces.
“After last summer’s experience of home grown produce no housewife will willingly go back
to abject dependence on the greengrocer’’
And we may learn the idea of making the garden a definitely useful and used part of the estab-
lishment, to get familiar with and live in
When Candlemas Day is come and gone
The sun lies on a hot stone.
—Old Saw.
Tue CounsELs oF PERFECTION
There is a difference between the winteriness
of January and that of February. In the first
month it 1s winter indoors, outdoors, and within
ourselves; but in the second month of the year
those whose nerves are atune to the elemental
variations are aware of a change. In truth,
as the old saw says “‘the sun lies on a hot stone,”
and there will come more than one day between
the storms and cold when we feel spring’s young,
firm fingers upon the wavering pulse of gray
old winter. These are the days when we may
look for a few stars upon the Naked Jasmine, or
a branch of pink-flowered Daphne scenting all
the air, or perhaps an Hepatica crouched in a
warm hollow.
These are the days too, when gardeners be-
come most truly inspired; when they feel most
keenly the beauty of their craft and dream their
best dreams of advance and improvement. And
let not the owner of the very smallest garden
fear to dream gloriously. Great space does
not by any means insure beauty, and numbers
frequently serve but to confuse the observer.
A great gardener once wrote ““The counsels
of perfection are not to be slighted because the
ground is small. . . A small trim garden,
like a sonnet, may contain the very soul of
beauty.” Love and high ideals and good cul-
ture will make the littlest garden a delight, and
without these the owner of the great garden
will strive in vain,
Bree Hives 1n THE GARDEN
I was much interested in the article in the
January magazine entitled “Bee Keeping for
Boys.” But I would go further and recommend
it to all gardeners; not only because it is an inter-
esting and remunerative occupation, but for
the additional reason that as garden furniture
few things are prettier or quainter than bee hives.
Long ago every gardener was also a beekeeper,
or peemtiete as the old books call them, and
the hives stood upon low stools or benches along
the garden walls among the riotous Poppies,
Hollyhocks and old fashioned Roses, or along
the flower bordered walks. Sometimes they
were the Picturesque * “skeps,’ or bee baskets,
made of “sweet wheaten straw and bound with
bramble;” sometimes wooden boxes with quaint
pecned thatching held in place with barrel hoops.
Holland gardens boasted gaily painted hives—
bright yellow, pink, but mostly deep blue, for
this was thouzht to be the color most attractive
to the bees. Very bizarre and cheerful must
these bright-hued hives have looked in the stiff
little Dutch gardens; but the simple white hives
of our own day are delightfully decorative, and
far more appropriate to modest gardens than
the ornate furnishings with which they are
frequently embellished.
Pleasant too, it would be, to learn which flowers
are most sought by the busy little workers and
set them round about the hives, making a special
garden for them, as it were. Blue flowers we
know they love, and so there would be many
‘by
Author of My
kinds of Sage and Mint, Borage, Cornflowers,
Phacelia and Eutoca, Lupines, Larkspurs and
Anchusas, Lavender and Nemophila, Nigella,
Chicory, blue Nemesias and many Michaelmas
Daisies. And besides these, Ambrosia, Evening
Primroses, Marjoram and Savory, Zinnias,
Sweet Peas, Woodruff, Bartonia, Limnanthes,
Sweet Sultans, Stocks, Mignonette, Poppies,
Collomia, Anise, Naked Jasmine and Clematis
paniculata. Of trees: Willows, Red-bud, Alder,
Crabapple, Locust, Maple, Lime, Blawwalnonm,
Basswood and Shadbush are the favorites with,
of course, the orchard trees whose blossoms offer
such a feast for the bees.
Micuaetmas Daisies
This is the time to make plans for autumn
beauty and I want to say a word for the inclusion
of our native Michaelmas Daisies in ‘the spring
order lists. No other plants at our command
so fill the last months of the garden’s life with
beauty, none are so easy to grow or more strongly
defy the frost and few are more available and
charming for indoor decoration. All this is
indisputably true and yet I can name dozens of
gardens where not a single Michaelmas Daisy
waves a befowered wand in the Autumn sunshine.
Our nurserymen offer long lists of them, garden
writers, native and foreign, tell of their charms,
ut the American gardener turns a deaf ear (and
a blind eye, for if he would but once look at
them he would be conquered), and the American
garden remains given over in the autumn to
hard- faced, flaunting Salvias and stout Marigolds
while the sumptuous purple tide flows in and out
among the brown-tipped Sumachs and flaming
Creepers along our country roadsides.
I do not like to hint that because our Michael-
mas Daisy is a native and has the temerity to
grow wild before our eyes, we look upon it with
contempt. But we do love a foreign title, and
even the fact that the Starworts have, for the
most part, been improved and developed in
foreign workshops (not in our own as they should
have been), does not rid them of the stigma of
being “‘just wild flowers, or roadside weeds.”
However the time is at hand when if we do not
appreciate our own, American gardens will be
at a sorry pass. So let us begin by giving the
Michaelmas Daisy its just mete of consideration
and a place in our flower borders.
The members of the Cordifolius group are all
lovely and particularly good for small gardens,
as they are not so strongly spreading as some
others. Their average height is about three
and a half feet, and the slender branches carry
clouds of bloom several feet across. The
Ericoides group is also particularly fitted for
small gardens. Its root stock is even smaller
and more stay-at-home than the foregoing, and
most of the varieties do not exceed three feet in
height. The tiny blossoms are produced in
bewildering profusion—blush, gray, mauve,
lavender, and white.
Aster laevis, and its varieties, is a tall, strong
growing sort with wand-like branches bearing
loose open sprays of fairly large lavender flowers.
This type is extremely graceful.
Perhaps the best of all are the many varieties
that have been developed from our New York
Aster (A. novi-belgii). This type sends up
leafy stems from three to six feet tall that bear
dense masses of large blossoms in all shades of
lavender, pink, mauve, purple, gray, white and
magenta. It has prowling underground stems
that spread rapidly, exhausting the soil about
24
THROUGH, THE CARDEN GATS
75€
Gareen’ and Cofvar in NG
‘Wilder
uy Garden”
it and soon forming tangled unwieldy masses
of branches. It is best to keep the novi-belgu
Asters down to about six stems, to this end
dividing the plants at least every other year,,
or cutting out the surplus growth.
The New England Aster novae-angliae has a
stout root stock that increases much less rapidly
than the foregoing, but in my garden the plants
seed so freely, and the youngsters take such frm
hold upon the paths and borders, that they be-
come a real nuisance. ‘They are tall and strong
in growth and the colors are rich and deep—
. purple, violet and magenta.
A small native Aster suitable to rock work
and very lovely is offered by Wm. Gillett as
Diplopappus linariifolius.
The latest flowering Asters are the Virginian
A. grandiflorus, A. tataricus, and a hybrid of
heath-like growth and pale magenta-pink blos-
soms called Novelty. These Howie in November.
Nor For Litre Carmine
There are certain plants that are best kept
out of little gardens; indeed are not wisely admit-
ted to any save after due consideration of their
propensities. They are those whose growth
underground is so rampant, or whose seeding
is SO prolific, as to make them a menace to choicer
less pervasive subjects. None of these plants
is devoid of beauty or lacking in usefulness of a
sort, but the owner of the small place or suburban
lot will have a much happier experience if he
extends his hospitality only to those of con-
servative habits and who do not grow over stout
and unwieldy.
I can remember very well that my early garden-
ing days were made green with the type of plant
against which I am inveighing—and there is
always this danger threatening the peace of the
beginning gardener. Gardening folk are gener-
ous and neighborly and it is always a pleasure to
help stock the new garden; and the novice accepts:
eagerly anything that looks green and sturdy. |
But it is in no wise a kindness to hand over to
him plants that will shortly become a pest
instead of a pleasure—if they do not quite cure
him of his budding enthusiasm for the work.
Here is the blacklist and I hope I am not tread-
ing upon too many toes:
All the Perennial Sunflowers save the varie-
ties of H. multiflorus, Achillea ptarmiea, Bol-
tonia asteroides and B. latisquama (the dwarf
form, nana, is fine), the great Plume Poppy
(Bocconia cordata), Hemerocallis flava and
H. fulva, both lovely but too strongly spread-
ing for small gardens, Bugle Weed (Ajuga),
Golden Glow, -Polygonum cuspidatum and its
variety compactum, Campanula ‘Trachelium
and C. Rapunculus (Rampion), varieties of
Aster novae-angliae, the great Ox-eye (Buphthal-
mum salicifolium), the Silver Thistle (Echinops
sphaerocephalus), Iris versicolor and I. pseuda-
corus, the Dead Nettle (Lamium maculatum),
Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia Nummularia),
Ground Ivy (Nepeta Glechoma)—the last three
are particularly dangerous in rock gardens—,
Oenothera_ biennis, the pretty Spiderwort
'(Tradescantia virginica), Comfrey (Symphytum
officinalis), Goutweed (Aegipodium podagraria),
and the pretty pink-flowered Bindweed
(Calystegia pubescens or Convolvulus japonicus).
Many more could doubtless be added out of
the sad experience of others, but these are the
plants against which I have waged a losing fight
for many years. I think it is quite safe to say
that the labor of caring for my garden would be
lessened by very nearly half had none of these
determined ones been allowed a foot-hold within
its walls.
as
A well made hotbed frame in operation over surface bed. The ma-
Preparedness with Hotbeds .£.1. xrrxpatricx
nure heap is regular and neat
HE hotbed is almost an_ essential,
certainly it is a most valuable adjunct
to each garden. Through its use an
ample supply of all eels and flower
plants will be available for transplanting as
weather conditions permit them to be taken to
out-of-door plots; excellent crops of radishes and
lettuce may be matured four to six weeks ahead
of the out-of-door crop; and the season of toma-
toes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers and mush-
rooms may be forwarded several weeks.
According to methods of construction, hotbeds
suited to average garden needs are of two types,
pit beds or surface beds. The former, which
contains the fermenting manure, furnishing
necessary heat for plant growth, requires less
space and gives a less unsightly appearance.
The latter may be constructed at any time, as no
digging of the frozen soil will be required. Prac-
tically the same results are secured through the
use of either.
Regulation sash 3x6 ft. for covering the
frames may be purchased from a reliable green-
house construction company. They are made
from 1? inch cypress or chestnut wood, blind-
mortised and well braced. If possible secure
sash fitted or glazed with double A strength glass,
and get them at once. A four-sash bed is ample
for maturing early vegetables and for growing
necessary vegetable and flower plants for the
average family.
Begin construction of the frame early in order
that it may be ready for use when actually
needed, that is, when the pit is filled with manure.
iivese twoanch material for sides, ends, and
cross-bars, especially if the frame is to be used
year after year. Allow for a 6-inch sash slant
in order that sunlight may enter more directly _
and water from rains may drain off readily.
Cutting the end pieces on this slant, make each
5 ft. 85 inches long. In order that the frame may
be easily taken down and stored when not in
actual use, bolt a piece of 2 in. x 4 in. or 4 in. x 4
"in. flush on either end of this part of the frame.
‘bolted to either end of the two
Bore holes through this block at right angles for
bolts which are to fasten side pieces securely
to end pieces of the frame.
Side pieces, that is, front and back, similar
except that the latter is 6 inches higher than the
former, are of equallength. Cut
either enough longer than four
sash widths to cover additional
width of the 2x 4’s or 4x 4’s
end cross-pieces.
Cut and fit the cross bars or
sash rests for the 4-sash frame,
dropping each, mortise fashion,
even with the top of the frame.
Cut the mortise joint at a slight
angle to obviate the use of nails,
thus allowing the bars to be lifted
out to facilitate in cultivation,
as well as in taking down the
frame for storing. Each bar
aids in making the frame rigid,
Coldframe with protection from winds on the north.
Getting an Early Start With Flowers
and Vegetables—The Practical Sub-
stitute’ for a Greenhouse in the
Small Garden and an Inval-
uable Accessory to It on
a Large Place
Making—Starting—Handling
as well as in supporting two sash, and pre-
vents water from dripping between sash
during heavy rains.
The Needed Supply of Manure
HAVING the construction of the frame
well under way, give attention to se-
curing of manure for heating the hotbed.
Begin collecting this supply from grain-
fed straw-bedded work horses at least
two weeks before it is to be placed in the pit.
Have one-third to one-half of the bulk in
straw, otherwise the manure will become too
compact from tramping or firming in the pit
to heat properly. Arrange the collected manure
in a flat, compact pile 3-5 feet high, and of the
desired dimensions. After allowing it to heat
four or five days, fork the pile over, getting into
the centre as well as possible that which formerly
was exposed in order that the entire mass will
become uniformly heated without fire-fanging or
burning. If the heap fails to heat properly, that
is, if the weather is severely cold, add sufficient
water (hot if possible) to soak thoroughly, and
firm the heap by tramping. Allow the mass to
reheat for a week following turning or forking
over before placing it in the pit.
Showing construction that permits of the frame being taken down
for storage when not in use
Making the Beds
T° MAKE a pié bed proceed as follows: Plan
to face the sloping surface of the frame to
the south or east, in order that crops may get the
largest possible amount of protection from cold
winds, a as well as a more direct exposure to the
sun’s rays. Lake advantage of any possible pro-
tection (as building, fence, or shrubs), from cold
winds on the north and west, See that the spot
chosen is well drained or provide artificial drain-
Differs from hotbed in depending solely on sunlight
for heat
25
The manure heap is “‘turned’’ four to six days after having been put
into a pile
age by mounding the soil well around the finished
ed.
Mark off dimensions of the pit, allowing from
one-half to one foot additional space outside the
frame. Throw soil removed back on all sides of
the pit in order that it may be used for banking.
After digging the pit to a depth of 24 inches, place
a thin layer of straw in the bottom.
In filling the pit, place the manure in as evenly
as possible in 4-inch layers, firmly, tramping each
layer, especially along the edges and in the cor-
ners. When the pit 1s filled to surface level,
set the frame in place on top and bank w ell
around the edges with soil or with strawy manure.
Cover the frame with sash and mats, allowing it
to stand until the manure has thoroughly heated,
usually 4-6 days.
A surface bed may be planned to avoid digging
the excavation needed for a pit bed. Choosing
a well-drained site, tramp the fermented manure
firmly in a heap approximately two feet longer
and two feet wider than the space covered by
the frame. Tramp each four-inch layer of
manure added until the pile is two feet deep with
the edges of the pile as nearly vertical as possible.
Set the frame squarely over the heap, bank well
around the outside, cover with sash and handle
identically as directed with the pit bed.
Choose the best soil available in which to grow
the hotbed crops. If a supply has not been pro-
vided last season, secure the amount needed
from some sheltered place in the woods, or from a
well-protected fence corner. Mix soil chosen
thoroughly with well-rotted manure in the pro-
portion of about 3 or 4to1. Add this to a depth
of four to six inches and cover the bed again
until the temperature, after having reached its
maximum, usually 95 degrees to 125 degrees, has
receded to 85 to 90 degrees. Use a regular
plunging soil thermometer in taking tempera-
ture, pushing it through the soil added.
Planting the Bed
PLAN to plant the bed at any convenient
date after the proper temperature and con-
dition of the soil is reached. The amount of each
crop planted will be governed somewhat by likes
and dislikes of the family, for various vegetables
and flowers, include lettuce, radishes, spinach,,
early beets and parsley among
the first crops to be grown to.
maturity. Sow these, if possi~
ble, in late February or early
March. Space the rows 2 to 4.1n-
chesapart. Inter-crop radishes:
with lettuce, alternating one row
of the formerwithoneofthelatter.
Sow 8 to 10 seeds of each per
inch of row, later thinning rad-
ishes to stand ro to 15 and let-
tuce 2 to 3 per footofrow. Thin
spinach, beets and parsley ac~
cordingly. Lay out the plot with
a rake-like marker having pro-
perly spaced “pegs, in order to.
get uniformly straight rows.
26 Ar
I
HE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FreBRUARY, 1919
Sow early cabbage for transplanting at the
same date, using only one or two rows of space, or
scattering seed broad cast near one end of the bed.
Whentinyseedlingshavethefirst pairoftrueleayes,
transplant them to another part of the bed, choos-
ing only the choicest plants and spacing them 2
inches apart in rows spaced the same distance.
Sow seeds of celery, tomatoes, peppers, egg-
plants, pansies and asters March 20-30 to secure
plants for out-of-door setting. Broadcast these,
planning to “prick out” (i. e. transplant) plants
of each kind when they have acquired their first
pair of true leaves and to allow them more space,
at least 3 in. x 3 in., except celery, Pansies and
Asters, 2 in. x 2 in., through transplanting.
Start seeds of late cabbage, late cauliflower,
cucumbers, muskmelons, squash and sweet corn
during the latter part of April, preferably April
20-30. Except for cabbage and cauliflower which
are sown broadcast in small plots, plant these crops
in dirt bands or in square pieces of sod inverted,
in order that they may be taken directly to the
field with no check in growth from transplanting.
Hotbed Equipment
[IX ADDITION to sash, provide mats of some
sort for covering the hotbed during severe
weather, as well as during nights of late winter
and early spring. A partially grown crop well
protected is far ahead of any crop which is
planted to replace it. Warm season crops are
easily checked or stunted if allowed to chill dur-
ing nights or cold, stormy days. Either straw or
board mats will answer satisfactorily. Doubled
glazed sash are often used in preference to single
sash and mats.
AMOUNT OF MATERIALS AND ESTIMATED COST OF SAME FOR 4-SASH BED
4 Sash 3 ft. x 6 ft.x r} in. Double A glass . « $14.00
AIMEE Such Oe mbiswheh? 7/5577 5 o 9 a Oo oO Oo 7.50
I, 2in. x 14 in. 14 ft. cypress . 1.80
I,2in.x 8in. 14 ft. celal I.00
I, 2in. X I4 in. 12 ft. BP) co bast ci ung Leh a UC I.50
I,2in.x 4 in. 18 ft. Lor tS yo? a ee -50
‘Bolts;sincidentalsiepaas- ga Seas! nated o-) .60
BSileyokyneemiiKoes 5G om 4 8 6 oro oO Db @ 0 7.50
otal eet ceeh ete efit cc, cot CM SORAO
The use of “flats” (shallow boxes of convenient
size for handling readily) is a decided advantage
in growing early plants. A seedling flat may be
moved about to facilitate watering and to give
the plants best access to sunshine and fresh air.
A wire bottom flat will be found preferable, as the
soil contained therein will be in direct contact
with that of the hotbed. In this way contents
of the flat recetve uniform heat and capillary
moisture from soil immediately beneath them.
In making or buying flats, see that they are of
standard dimensions, in order that they fit
snugly into the hotbed frame—g in. x 13 in.,
13 in. x 18 in. or 18 in. x 22 in. size. Have each
flat approximately 3 inches deep.
General Management
PROVIDE for. sufficient ventilation of the
hotbed to supply plants with the necessary
fresh air to reduce the humidity and to control
the temperature.
water on the lower side of the glass is an indica-
tion that ventilation is needed. Begin venti-
lating by shoving alternate sash forward and
back, only a slight distance at first, gradually in-
creasing this distance each day until the sash may
be removed entirely. “Harden” all plants for
out-of-door setting by leaving the sash off both
day and night for a week or ten days previous to
transplanting time.
See that the hotbed soil is kept moist contin-
ually without soaking the manure beneath it.
Water thoroughly, however, at frequent inter-
vals, preferably every day or every other day,
rather than sprinkle frequently. Water in the
forenoon of bright, sunshiny days only, as the
temperature of the bed is easily lowered by ap-
plying water late in the day, and the foliage
is left wet for the night. Such a condition
favors “damping off,” one of the most serious
hotbed troubles. [See December, 1918, issue
p- 144.
The Smoke Problem in Suburban Gardens
How Small Traces May Account for Difficulties in Cultivation
It’s evident that the Stevia plant on the right has suffered
considerably. Smoke did it!
HILE everybody understands that
plants need fresh air in order to
grow properly, yet the fact that they
suffer injury in varying degree due
to the presence of various products of
combustion in the air is not generally appre-
ciated. Effects vary in proportion to the
impurities in the air, and not every plant af-
fected by presence of coal smoke, for instance,
will show the injury as decidedly as the speci-
mens photographed in November at the Mis-
sourt Botanical Garden. The accompanying
pictures represent the results of several heavy
fogs when many plants in the greenhouses
were injured.
It stands to reason that plants in dwelling
houses used for apartment decoration may easily
suffer in the same way. With decreased supply
of light, irregularity in the water supply for roots,
excessive changes of temperature, one or all,
coupled with the contaminating impurities of
the enclosure, it is not surprising that house
plants. frequently do not show .the same vigor
as subjects in greenhouses or out of doors. As
a matter of fact the ordinary dwelling-house con-
ditions are as bad for plant cultivation as things
can well be. Soot and dust block up the pores
of the leaf, impair the breathing and transpira-
tion processes,and the film of dirt cuts off some
more light.
In the close proximity of buildings where smoke
from fires is common, deposits of soot on
the leaves of evergreens are accountable for the
poor behavior of such plants in the city environ-
ments, and such plants suffer all the more be-
cause they do not get a complete new suit of
fresh foliage each year.
Coal smoke is injurious in many ways. The
burning of the sulphur that is present in the coal
produces sulphurous acid, from which the more
corrosive sulphuric acid is easily formed; and
that causes the drying, blackening, or curling of
the tips and margins of the leaves of the young
shoots of the expanding flowers.
Plants differ in their reaction to the poisons
in the air—in other words some are more rugged
than others and have greater powers of resist-
ance. Some drop their leaves very quickly, the
Jerusalem Cherry for instance. Or the plant
may be injured internally even when it does not
How a young Cineraria was affected is seen by comparison
with a healthy one
drop its leaves, and in its weakened condition
becomes an easy victim of fungus and insects.
Whenever house plants do not seem to be grow-
ing happily it will be well to look for the presence
of combustion products and coal gas and the
Smoke in the fog, is responsible for the bedraggled look of the
sick Chrysanthemum
same thing is true of many plants in city and sub-
urban gardens.
The Missouri Botanical Gardens, in its Bulle-
tin for Nov. 1917 makes the following report of
plants that were most seriously affected during
the bad spell of fog referred to above when the
accompanying photographs weré made:
Alternanthera versicolor, leaves dropped;
Azalea indica, leaves dropped; Begonia semper-
florens, leaves browned at edge; Calanthe, young
shoots blighted; Catasetum, young shoots
blighted; Cattleya, flowers dropped; Chrysan-
themem, foliage browned, dropped; Cineraria,
leaves browned at edge; Cuphea hyssopifolia,
leaves dropped; Dendrobium, flowers failed to
open; Duranta integrifolia, leaves dropped;
Ferns, leaves browned; Hydrangea Hortensia,
leaves blackened; Laelia, flowers dropped; Poin-
settia (P. pulcherrima), leaves yellowed; Prim-
ula sinensis, leaves browned at edge; Solanum
pseudo-capsicum, leaves dropped; Piqueria
(Stevia), leaves blighted.
The formation of drops of |
i
}
ay
He
EL
Selective Draft Idea in
HEN we are urged to plan and plant
our gardens, and to plant and plan
to fill our cellars with food for the
winter that will again come in due
season, we might suppose that all vegetables are
of equal worth in the task. Of course we all
know that, row for row, our various vegetables
are not of equal value for giving the wherewithal
to bolster up our stomachs. Of course we do
not need to think of this when planting under
ordinary conditions, for we merely try to have
everything we like. But in war times we plant
in terms of greatest returns in food value, first
of all, and war conditions still exist, so far as
our present viewpoint is concerned.
Though no vegetables that we cultivate are
alien enemies, some are almost neutral in our
fight for food, some are slackers and do very little
to help us, while others are mere camp-followers
using our ground and food, and in time of stress
more in the way than of use. There is not much
fight in a cucumber or a watermelon, and think
of the good space they take up! The burden
of the fray falls upon a willing few, and on these
staunch defenders do we really depend. Some
other vegetables are more interesting to grow
and see and taste, but they don’t deliver the
calories.
Without saying that any modern vegetable
of the garden is bad, worthless or undesirable,
let us judge them and classify them by food
value in relation to time, effort and space re-
quired to produce them. The q®icker to grow
with high food value, the more rows of them
should we have. To consider the capabilities
of each one let us put them into three classes,
according to the part of the plant that is eaten,
Consider carefully what you will plant in this year’s garden!
VICTO RY GARDENS
FOOD F-O-B THE
SEP On,
and in each class we list the more valuable first.
The terms used are descriptive rather than accur-
ate, for we lack an accepted terminology for
these distinctions.
I. Salad or Green Vegetables. ‘Those whose
foliage, leaf-stalks or stems are eaten, with or
without cooking.
CookED UncooKED
Spinach Dandelion Lettuce
Young Beets Curled dock Celery
Cabbage Swiss chard Endive
Brussels sprouts New Zealand spinach Cabbage
Cauliflower Scotch kale Parsley
Asparagus Kohlrabi Witloof chicory
Rhubarb Globe artichoke Petsai,
II. Root Vegetables. hose with edible part
underground, usually cooked.
CooKkED UNcOooKED
Potato Turnip Onion
Sweet potato Leek Radish
Beet Parsnip Garlic
Carrot Salsify
Onion Celeriac
III. Fruit-bearing Vegetables—
grown for their seeds or fruits.
CooKED UNcooKED
Bean Winter squash Tomato
Pea Summer squash Muskmelon
Corn Okra Watermelon
Tomato Egg-plant Cucumber
Pumpkin Pepper
Every home garden, to give a full
bill-of-fare, should contain vegetables
of each class, both to be eaten raw
and cooked. Uncooked vegetables
have only a seasonal and temporary
value, for they cannot usually be
stored. Our internal anatomy finds
Q7
KITCHEN DOR...
All vegetables are not of equal food value, so plan ahead and then “‘go to it” for 1919
the Vegetable Garden ss. f HAMBLIN
Eliminating the Slacker Crops That Do Not Pay on the Small Area Garden
dhar very useful, but plant only so much as
you can use while they are fresh.
"THE salad vegetables have no great food
value, but they are easily grown as a rule.
They are of immense benefit to our human
frame, both for the green cell tissue and the
mineral salts contained. Spinach, young beets,
and the cabbage tribe give foliage to boil the
season through; with the perennial asparagus,
dandelion, and rhubarb for early spring re-
enforcements. If you have an over-supply you
may cook and can, or pickle in salted water, for
‘ereens” in the middle of the winter.
Swiss chard, New Zealand spinach, Scotch
kale, and kohlrabi you may plant if you wish;
they have not the wearing powers of spinach
and cabbage, and after a season or two your
stomach will demand a rest from them. Any
of these green vegetables may be dried and stored
(hs)
8 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FreBpruarRy, 1919
for winter—so they say—but I don’t like to rob
a cow of her hay.
Of the uncooked greens lettuce and celery
stand supreme and alone. The small garden
can hardly manage celery, but the many kinds of
lettuce fill the whole growing season.
OF THE root crops few are eaten raw;
radishes and the onion with her sisters and
cousins give flavor rather than food. Potatoes,
and sweet potatoes in their range, are the gteat
starch makers. Beets contain much sugar and
look well on the table, even when assisting in
our “hash” drive. Why beets are not grown
more in the small garden is one of life’s mysteries.
The others of the list contain useful ‘mineral
matter besides the small amount of starch and
large amount of water. To the food producer
the best fact is that these roots may be easily
stored in the cellar or pits for use all winter, and
no canning is needed.
HE great triumvirate of the small garden is
beans, peas, and sweet corn, giving greater
and more complete food to the row than any other
‘crops. ‘They are very simple fellows, but sure to
yield abundantly. They are most palatable when
“green,” but the matured seeds are amons our
richest foods, and stored in a box or Paper baw
Tomatoes, pumpkin, and squash contain much
water, but there is good food in them also.
Peppers, ege-plant and okra are not heavy
workers, but their flavor may please the palate.
Of these fruits the first four form the greatest
part of our canned vegetable supply, so plant
. more than you intend to eat during their season.
If pumpkin and squash do not keep well in their
shell, into the can with them! Three cheers for our
canned vegetable-fruits, first line of our reserve!
The Fun of Working with Modern Tools a. xrunm
Advantage of Certain Forms of Cultivators to Specific Purposes.
HERE is only one way to
find out the real merit
of different tools for dif-
ferent purposes and that
is to get them all! At any rate,
that’s what I did last spring
and, by the time I got through
experimenting with them all
(with the “help” of many garden
neighbors) I felt like a real
veteran!
Of the dozen odd varieties of
eultivators—both hand and
wheel—available for home gar-
deners, no two really are alike,
although there is but little differ-
ence in their principle of construction. Three dis-
tinct types invite consideration: 1, those that
loosen the soil, with cultivator prongs or teeth;
2, those that cut beneath the soil with horizontal
knives; and 3, these that pulverize with discs or
blades. The lastly mentioned are frequently
combined so that, in one operation, the soil is
loosened and the weeds are cut.
The original wheelhoe culti-
vator had from three to five
straight prongs or teeth. [
Mulcher. Front:
As a sort of heavy artillery on heavy soil the Barker tool
weeds and mulches
Tools that mean victory over weeds.
Gilson, plain rake, Pull-Easy Adjustable
pushed it many a day through heavy clay and
know what the word “straight” stands fer. It was
Straight work! Then, wheelhoe makers realized
the advantage of the curved shape in cultivator
teeth (embodying the principle of the curved
fingers of the human hand) and curved cultivator
teeth were generally adopted. Now, we have
Particularly adapted to light soils is the Leonard Perfection Disc
Cultivator
The new cultivator types have the cross bar handle. Back, left to.
right: Perfection, Norcross All Metal, Planet Jr. single wheel, Iron Age Double Wheel, Liberty, Barker
—How Soil Character Is Responsible for Differing Types of Tools
them scientifically shaped and
set, so that fcr instance, on the
Liberty Wheel Cultivator we
have teeth which, because of
their shape, sink into the soil
quite on their own accord, with-
out any necessary downward
pressure on the part of the
gardener.
[NX STRIVING after perfection
in tools that will save both
time and effort, besides producing
bigger crops, some rather unique
combinations have been evolved.
Of course, the standard imple-
ments, such as the Planet Jr. and the Iron
Age, have developed with the times and they
offer, in their various attachments, nearly
every desirable combination of seedsower, weed-
killer and soil loosener which the gardener
may desire. With human hands to guide them,
these tools will do almost human tasks. There
seems to be no limit to their adaptability.
Strange to say, so nearly does inventive genius
dovetail in these two popular lines that the only ,
teal difference between them is found in the
handles. The Iron Age has adhered to the
original curved plow
handle from the be-
ginning, because it
offers certain advan-
tages. Planet
Jr. tools offer
handles that en-
deavor to put
the maximum
For opening furrows and all round work the Iron Age (illustrated)
and Planet Jr. tools are universally used
amount of push —
FEBRUARY, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 29
where the push belongs. So difficult is it to
explain this slight but highly important difference
that the manufacturers themselves are reluctant
to make it a talking point. Yet, in the final
analysis, this is the only fundamental difference
between the two best known standards in wheel
cultivators to-day.
It is rather significant that the difference in
the handles of the cultivators.seems to be con-
sidered of tnore vital importance of late by the
makers of the tools than those parts of the cul-
tivators that really do the work. The realiza-
tion that the comfort of “the man behind the
hoe” deserves more consideration than what
the hoe may do, seems responsible for a gradual
drifting away from the pair of handles to the
crossbar handle of the kind we associate with
the lawnmower.
Perhaps the application of this type of handle
may cause some otherwise very meritorious
but little known tools to become more popular.
Take the Norcross All Metal Cutivator for
instance. In its present shape, being all metal,
with two heavy metal handles attached to two
heavy metal arms, the machine is distinctly
top heavy—too heavy for comfortable pro-
pelling when the sun registers ninety in the shade.
It takes 2 man to do it and it tires a man in a
couple of hours. Yet, the machine has a few
unique attachments that do splendid work. If
the single handle idea with crossbar handle could
be grafted to this tool, it might become as popular
as its sturdy construction deserves.
RES is no question but that different
soils require different tools in order to do
the kind of cultivation that benefits plant life
most. Gardeners in different parts of the
country are confronted by widely differing soil
conditions, and their wishes for helpful tools
have been responsible for the creation of quite
a variety of tools designed to meet their needs.
As I recall the experiments of the past season,
two utterly different types of cultivators stand
out clearly in my memory. One is the “Per-
fection” Cultivator, a combination of weed
cutter and pulverizing discs. The other is the
Barker Mulcher and Cultivator, a combination
weed cutter, tooth cultivator and soil pulverizer.
Beth have lawnmower handles. Both have
the same type of horizontal weed cutter. Yet,
both are designed for two distinctly different
kinds of soil and they will do the best work where
they meet the soil conditions that called them
into existence.
The Perfection Cultivator was conceived in
the big onion plantations of central [Illinois
where a light muck soil encourages quick growths
of myriads of weeds. These quick growing
weeds have to be checked by frequent cultivation.
The flat horizontal weed
cutters are part of every
combination cultivator to-
day (Planet Jr. style shown)
Very sturdy but almost too
heavy for all round use is the
All Metal Norcross tool. It
will stand the roughest kind
of handling
A heavy tool is neither necessary nor desirable,
because it would exhaust the gardener. There-
fore the “Perfection” is the lightest, yet most
flexible cultivator available to-day and particu-
larly adapted to light soil.
The Barker Weeder and Mulcher I like to
consider the heavy artillery in the garden. It
surely is the most powerful piece of weed-destroy-
ing machinery yet evolved. I do not know what
type of soil they have out in Nebraska where
this tool comes from, but I venture to guess that
itis clay. For on heavy clay soil this implement
stands out head and shoulders as the most
efficient three-in-one cultivator in the amount
and quality of the work that one may do with it.
The horizontal weed cutter is so heavy that it
will cut a clean path through a thick weed growth,
six to eight inches tall. Ordinarily this would
require first mowing with a scythe and then
hoeing or wheelhoeing.“ The pulverizing feature
of the Barker consists of a drum with six slanting
knives which revolve, like lawnmower knives,
as the tool is pushed. ‘ These knives will pul-
verize the heaviest soil. “Turning from wheelhoes
to hand cultivators, we find no radical departure
other than that the horizontal weed cutter has
been attached to a long handle and comes now as
a loosely hung rocker hoe known as the Gilson
Weeder. This I found to be the safest tool
for the whole family for all hoeing and weeding
jobs.. It proves just as effective
and safe in the .hands of the
boys and girls as in those of the
grown-ups.
The Pull-Easy which has
been featured repeatedly in these
columns, is an adaptation of the
rake to the cultivator idea. It
is still the standard hand culti-
vator for light work and was
the first departure from the origi-
nal prong cultivator known as
the Norcross. For heavier soils
offering greater resistance to cul-
tivating efforts, the Liberty Hand
Cultivator Weeder will be found
quite effective. As already men-
tioned under wheel cultivators,
its scientifically shaped teeth liter-
ally draw it into the soil and
while they do not cover more
than eight inches at a time, they
surely do a thorough job.
HINT. in conclusion to the
men who make garden tools.
Do they recall the first time they looked at
a new motor or the machinery of a submarine’
or any other complicated mechanism? Do
they recall how seemingly utter helplessness
stole over them at the thought of how to put
the thing together? Well that’s exactly the
way ninety out of every hundred home gardeners
feel as they unpack a “knocked down” cultivator.
The helplessness of the average man when it
comes to bolts and screws, to leaf lifters, and
disc attachments is proverbial. The directions
given for putting the tools together are as strange
to read as at first, the tools are to look at. By
all means, furnish simply drawn directions for
the gardener’s guidance; how to put the wheel
to the frame, etc., etc. This will go a lot further
than ten pages of written instructions, and would
help the sales. At least I think so!
| Can ] Use a Tractor? FRANK E. GOODWIN
A Question That Cannot be Answered Unequivocally; Much Depends on the Point of View—Conclusions of Experienced Workers,
and All Round Adaptability to Other Service About the Place
MILLION garden areas in the United
States, all suited for the profitable
use of tractors and power operated
equipment, are awaiting their owner’s
decisions to buy, or not to buy. Some of the
owners are convinced that a tractor would fit
into their plan of operations successfully, but
have yet to decide what type and make is best
fitted for their peculiar conditions. A consider-
able majority of owners however are “all at sea”
as to the desirability of partially motorizing their
acres.
Before deciding whether, or not, a tractor
should be added to the equipment, the owner
might well jot down a number of vital and per-
tinent questions, and then take considerable
time in answering them. Some of these queries
—yes, many of them—must be settled by the
owner himself. The most important of these
questions are:
1. Dol need a tractor?
2. Ifso, what should be its capacity?
3. What type will be best suited to my
needs?
4. How can it be best employed to make it
most profitable?
The first question is, naturally, the most
important, and should demand the most careful
consideration from all angles before a decision
is arrived at.
At the very beginning let me stiggest that,
broadly speaking, the “‘horseless era” is as
et but a fantastic dream. It may, sometime,
Re realized, but not until a new type of tractor
has been perfected and agriculture is so balanced
as to make all of the operations of plowing,
seeding, cultivation and the harvest subject to
mechanical power.
So for the present, at least, the ninety and
nine must plan to retain horses to perform the
work that the tractor is not able to do profitably,
or not at all.
So at the outset let us determine, ‘Do I need
a tractor?’ Close coupled and interwoven with
this query is the second: “If so, what should be
its capacity?”
The actual number of acres under cultivation
is the factor to consider—not the size of the
property. For example the stock raiser with
75 acres in crops does not need a tractor at all
unless he plans to greatly reduce his herds, and
increase his crop production materially. The
grower who seeds and harvests 75 acres of one
crop like wheat can much more profitably use a
30
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FreBRUARY, 1919
tractor than the man whgse 75 acres are evenly
divided into wheat, corn, potatoes, and smaller
acreages of oats, meadow land and a garden.
ERHAPS the most’ sensible and easiest
way of arriving at the need of a tractor
is first to determine the number of acres which
can be worked by power which ordinarily should
not be less than 75, tillage and meadow land,
and then ascertain how many horses and what
man-power can be displaced by a tractor. If
the present acreage is cared for by four horses
and one laborer, then the average person will
not find it profitable to purchase a farm tractor,
because he can only hope to dispose of the ser-
vices of two horses, and the man still be retained.
If he is employing eight horses and two men a
“farmer” can, under average conditions, make
profitable use of a small tractor by reducing the
number of horses from eight to two, and employ
one man where two are now necessary. On
smaller private properties the question is de-
cidedly an individual one and must be answered
on its own merits in each case. The cost may
not be so much a factor as is convenience.
The number of plow bottoms required to suc-
‘cessfully operate the ground is a dependable
basis to study the profitable or unprofitable use
of a tractor. The single walking-plow or sulky-
plow man does not need a tractor as a money
saving machine. If the place requires a multiple
of these tools he does—under normal conditions.
If it requires a gang plow and one laborer to
prepare the soil for crops, these are conditions
which might make a tractor profitable.
The man who uses two sulky plows, or one gang
plow, eight horses and two men, will find a tractor
suitable for his needs is a profitable investment.
If two gang plows, ten horses and two or three
laborers are necessary, the needs of a tractor are
multiplied.
Or we can figure it out this way: If the mar-
ket value of the horses which can be displaced
by the tractor is equal to the first cost of a de-
pendable tractor, then the machine will nor-
mally be a paying investment. But, it should
always be remembered that where the cultivated
area is not “farmed” commercially there may
be other reasons that favor the new implement.
Investigations made by agricultural engineers,
and editors of technical magazines, in Illinois,
Iowa, Indiana, Ohio, and Missouri, prove that
50 acres of cultivable land are the fewest
which can be profitably worked with a small
farm tractor, under present power
and efficiency of the machine. The
variety of crops produced have some
bearing upon the comparison of trac
tor vs. horses but not tothe extent that
the average layman would suspect.
Where the entire area is allotted
wholly to small grains it can be
plowed, seeded, and harvested at
less cost than the same number of
acres devoted to row crops (corn, po-
tatoes, etc.). The raising of small
grains can be profitably accomplished
entirely by the employment of trac-
tors, but row crops ordinarily require
the use of horses for cultivation, as
only a smal] number of tractors are
so constructed as to make cultivation
by tractor practicable either from
the standpoint of cost to operate or
safety to the growing crops.
A SAVING of 4c per cent. in favor
+ * of the tractor is shown in drill-
ing 1n wheat and other small grain
and 35 percent.in harvesting. But
in planting row crops the saving is in
favor of the horse of 40 hours for 50
acres; and 200 hours for cultivating
(four times over), this work not gen-
erally being practical with tractors.
In harvesting row crops the saving is again in
favor of the tractor, 20 per cent. being the average
in harvesting corn and 18 per cent. in digging
potatoes.
Replies to questionnaires submitted to
more than 2,000 farmers prove beyond any meas-
ure of dispute, that a dependable farm: tractor
will displace a ratio of four out of six horses
upon any farm whose cultivable acreage is 50
acres and in excess thereof.
It has been definitely determined that it re-
quires at least three acres to maintain a horse
for 12 months. So the mathematically gifted
will calculate as follows:
A 2-plow tractor, releasing four horses, will
permit 12 acres to be put into wheat which will
produce a minimum of 144 bushels, worth $288.
The money crop value of these added acres
will be ample for fuel to operate the tractor for a
year, and some to spare. Horse shoeing and
veterinary service should offset the repairs
needed on the tractor. The extra time required
for caring for horses, if devoted to some other
work about the place would offset depreciation.
Then where are the profits? The wages paid
to the man or men displaced by use of the tractor,
and shorter time required in the various opera-
tions.
The tractor will work under weather condi-
tions which prevent the use of horses—such
Here’s a conveniently mounted tractor cultivating a crop that
is well up. Profitable on large acreages of one kind
Many attempts have been made to adapt the tractor idea to the small place. The Beeman type
is practical on an acre intensively cultivated
as extreme heat and tractors require no feed
when idle.
Having determined that he can ‘profitably
use a tractor (if he has) the next question is:
“What type is best suited to my needs?”
spats is some problem. If plowing, harrow-
ing, seeding and harvesting are the greatest
requirements either the two-wheel, four-wheel
or crawler (or caterpillar) types will suit, pro-
viding all farm conditions are normal. If much
cultivation is required, as in corn, potatoes and
other row crops a type of tractor designed for
such work, in addition to the other duties, will
be necessary. If the land is low, and wet at
times, the crawler is to be preferred and the same
is true if the place is hilly.
Perhaps the property is made up in consider-
able part of orchard? Then the tractor should
be low down so as to permit work beneath the
branches of the trees. Each individual case
requires separate consideration as to selection
of types. What might be ideal for the use of
one person might be entirely unsuited for an-
other.
“How can it be best employed to make it
most profitable?’? might be answered in a short
sentence—keep the tractor at work as much as.
possible. Amplified, the reply would take on a
wider range of words.
A 2-plow outfit will plow on an average of 64
acres per day of 10 hours. The 3-plow machine
about 10 acres and a 4-plow rig about 13 acres.
It will harrow and roll twice as much. If there is
sufficient reserve power, the seeding of: small
grains can be done at the same time the seed-bed
is made ready. Harvesting requires about the
same time as disc harrowing, per acre. '
Row crops, like corn, cotton, potatoes and
sugar cane, are not profitably put into the
ground with the average tractor on small acre-
ages. Neither is cultivation, nor the harvest
profitable with tractors of the commonly ac-
cepted type except where large areas are special-
izing in a single crop. These operations are
most profitably performed with tractors of special
types, which the intending purchaser would do
well to investigate.
Belt work affords added opportunity for profit
in the use of the tractor, providing the machine
used with the belt has sufficient capacity to work
the tractor to at least two thirds of its capacity.
Other small machines like the wood saw, etc.,
are well adapted to the small tractor. It is not
worth while to pump the water, turn a
grindstone, or operate a small home
lighting plant with the tractor.
That the tractor may be used as
many days as possible it should be
“hired out” when its use is not re-
quired by its owner. Road work—
dragging, grading and filling—offers
opportunity for a tractor owner to
“hire out” his machine, and add to
its hours’ work for the year.
In fact there’s lots of work in the
neighborhood for a tractor if it is
sought. Remember too, that a trac-
tor idle gathers a generous surplus
of rust, and of cussedness when the
Operator comes to start it.
Investigate the tractor, and the
firm making it, and the dealer selling
it, before signing a contract and pay-
ing money for its purchase. Don’t
be afraid you can’t operate it. The
average tractor is as easy to under-
stand and keep running as an auto-
mobile. It isn’t complicated, nor
mystical. ‘The tractor is just a ma-
chine—probably able to run for years
with a minimum amount of care and
attention, and like all mechanical
devices it may go to the bad in a few
weeks.
FespruaRy, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 31
What Fits the Small Garden
OWNERS of gardens of an acre, or more, can
find profitable use for a small tractor if they
cultivate intensively. And no garden, large
or small, is anything more than an abused play-
thing if it is permitted to take care of itself after
the seed has been planted.
The tractor will plow the ground; better if
anything than horses will do it. A small disc
harrow will prepare an ideal seed bed. On
account of its easy adjustability and perfect
control, cultivation with a small tractor. can
be begun as soon as desired after the plants are
above ground, and with practically no loss. One,
two and three rows can be cultivated at a single
Don’t be fooled by the tempera-
ture of the air in spring. The
ground. remains cold a long time so
only the hardiest seeds should now be
risked in tt. On April 26th in cen-
tral Pennsylvania the temperature
rose to more than ninety but for a
month following it seldom rose above
sixty and several times was below
freezing point. Better wait until
spring 1s really here before making
a start.
HIS MONTH! Send orders early, start
early vegetable seeds indoors; also
flower seeds for fall and winter plants;
also cuttings for spring plants; make
flats; clean old pots and order new; give the
greenhouse a general clean-up; finish dormant
pruning; also winter spraying; throw out spoiling
fruit and vegetables; overhaul dormant bulbs
and roots; order hotbeds and coldframes; make
up first hotbeds and get others ready for next
month.
What to plant this month? See list on page 17
of the February, 1917, GARDEN Macazine. Look
over last month’s Reminder to make sure you
have missed nothing that needed your attention.
Every year make observations as to nature’s
developments so as to guide you in your planting.
Some shrubs and trees leaf out or even blossom
almost before the snow is off the ground. Hardi-
est vegetable seeds may be sown then. Others
come into bloom weeks or months later so they
serve as guides for the more tender kinds. Here
is an interesting study in itself.
Sift out the small seeds from your home grown
supplies and from. the bought ones of uneven
sizes. ‘The large ones sprout best and make best
plants.
Don’t attempt to grow in the house or the green-
house the Dutch bulbs that you forced this year,
but don’t throw them away. Plant them in the
garden in some place where you don’t mind their
failing to produce flowers the following season.
They will usually take two years to recover from
one season’s forcing.
Look over the vegetables in the root cellar.
Remove those that show signs of decay. Open
the doors on the days when the thermometer is
above the freezing point.
Get all the free literature the government and
your state experiment station offer on the lines
of gardening you are interested in. They will
give you general information. Then look to
Toe GarDEN Macazine for news, new wrinkles,
plant personalities, and the thousand and one
things that the writers of such routine literature
pass by. For books on any phase of gardening
or rural interests write “‘ Book Service,” GARDEN
MacazineE, care of The Editor.
Starting a garden in a new place? Then decide
first of all upon the trees, next the shrubs, third
the hardy perennials you will need as permanent
residents on the property. During the first few
years while these are getting established fill in
the blank spaces with annuals.
operation—depending upon the space between
the rows. Cultivation can be carried into the
small fruit section without injury to the bushes,
and orchards thrive when cultivated well up to
the roots of the trees.
In fact the uses of the small tractor are mul-
titudinous. When not in use in the garden it
may be used to mow the lawn. Attached to a
small mowing machine it will do the work of two
horses in the hay field. It can be belted to a
feed grinder, and earn its keep. Belted up to a
double-tub washing machine, time and labor
is saved. The tractor has power sufficient to
operate a small spray rig and turn loss into profit
in spraying the fruit trees.
Che Montts Reminder
FEBRUARY
The Reminder is to “‘suggest”” what may be done during the next few weeks. Details of how todo eachitem
are given in the current or the back issues of THe GarpEN Macazine—it is manifestly impossible go give
all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine.
up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request), and the Service Department will also cite
references to any special topic if asked.
In calculating times to plant out of doors New York City is the usual standard.
day is the rate at which the season advances.
Make a plan of your garden large and clear
enough to show details and after inking it take
it in the tool house where you can see it every
time you need to.
Remember that every standard variety was
once a novelty. Therefore while not discarding
any tried and true friend become acquainted
this season with some of the novelties.
If you want to augment the earliness of your
garden avoid spreading manure until just before
you want to plow or dig. The thicker the dressing
the more slowly the frost will leave the ground
and the later the area will be in consequence.
Our Garden Neighbors can be of real service
to each other this year if they will test several
varieties of each kind of crop they grow and then
write the editor their opinions and experiences.
Though novelties are rather scarcer than before
the war there are still enough to compare them
with the old standbys grown under the same
conditions.
Get’the ‘‘Fruit’’ of Your Own Labor
Prune cane fruits—i. e-—raspber-
ries, blackberries and dewberries
this month or next. If you didn’t
cut out the old canes as you should
have done last July do that. first.
Then remove all but three or four strongest
canes in the black raspberry and dewberry hills
and thin out the blackberry and red raspberry
canes to stand at the rate of not more than two
to the foot. The smaller the number of canes
the larger and more luscious the fruit. Don’t
cut back the branches until flowering time
unless you know where the blossom buds are
borne.
Prune out the puny sprouts of currant and
gooseberry leaving only the two or not more
than three strongest ones. Do this each year
and in July or August after the fruit has been
gathered cut out the stems that have borne three
times. They are the oldest ones and as they
become older than this they not only produce
less and inferior fruit but become subject to
insects and diseases.
If you have a currant or a gooseberry bush
that has done exceptionally well and if you want
to propagate this one so as to have all your
bushes as good, save. the one year shoots that
you prune off this month, tie them in bundles,
bury them in a cold place and as soon as the
ground can be dug plant them so only the top
two or three buds are above the surface. Pack
Attached to a pump _
References to back numbers may be looked
Roughly fifteen miles a
Thus Albany which is one hundred and fifty miles from New
York would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia which is ninety miles southwest about a week earlier.
Dr. Hopkins (page 20) estimates four days for each one degree of latitude or five degrees of longitude, or four
hundred feet of altitude.
jack the problem of solving the water supply
1s easy.
In truth it seems that the garden tractor has
made the care of the garden almost play. A
woman or a boy can operate it successfully. The
hired man will be contented to stay on the place
where a tractor relieves much of the drudgery
that present-day independence abhors. And
finally, the lovable old family horse is emanci-
pated from slavery, and if sentiment is deeply
attached to Old Dobbin’s retention he may be
pensioned during his declining years, with noth-
ing more to do than make an occasional trip to
the store, or to church when the auto is out of
commission.
Only six or eight. weeks before
spring! Are you ready? How
about seeds, labels, stakes, pea
brush or netting, strings, insecti-
cides, fungicides, baskets, tools,
and other necessities? Look
through the sundries list in the
large seedsmen’s catalogues and
lay in supplies according to your
needs. There 1s. ample time to:
attend to all comfortably—yet no
time to waste!
the earth firmly by tramping and keep the young
plants free from weeds.
See that the mulch on the strawberries is prop-
erly “down.”
Fearful of Insects, Diseases, Blights ?
What though twenty-five to fifty
species of insects attack each of
7 our tree fruits! Will -you_ hoist
= the white flag and let them dictate
W terms when effective ammunition
and gumption will compel them to:
surrender?
Don’t let the spraying schedule frighten you.
Start early, do the work thoroughly, repeat at
stated times: first, while the trees are still dor-
mant but the buds just ready to swell; second,
soon after the leaves appear but before the flower
buds open; third, after the petals fall; fourth, pos-
sibly a month later, maybe not a fourth time,.
depending on the condition of the fruit which will
largely depend on the thoroughness and timeliness
of the first three sprays.
Get into the habit of using the term “blight”
for bacterial diseases such as fire-blight of pear,
and wilt of melons and cucumbers. “‘Rust’’ and
“rot” are terms to apply to fungous diseases.
The former cannot be fought successfully by
external treatment; the latter can.
Pare dead and diseased bark and wood of
fruit trees affected by collar-rot. Swab the
wounds with corrosive sublimate solution and
when dry paint with white lead in which there is
no turpentine.
While pruning raspberries and blackberries
cut off and burn any swellings two or more inches
long because they contain the larvae of the red
necked cane-borer, a different species from the
one that causes wilted shoots in early summer.
If you want your apples free from rust destroy
cedar and wild apple trees. The former breed
the disease known as “‘knobs”’ upon the smaller
branches. When these open they look like
orange-colored sponges.
Those black or dark brown swellings on plum
and sour cherry branches are caused by a fungous
disease, not an insect. Cut the branches off
several inches below the swellings and burn
them at once. Spraying will not cure the knots
though it will prevent their formation to a large
extent.
Gather the “‘frothy-glue” egg masses of the
apple-tree tent caterpillar from the small twigs of
apple and wild cherry. Store them out of doors
where the worms can’t get anything to eat; but
where the tiny parasites that pass the winter in
many of the eggs may escape to do their helpful
work of killing other insects.
Gather the frothy looking egg clusters of
tussock moth on apple and other fruit trees and
destroy them. i
Remember that slugs work at night; so if you
find irregular holes in your plants or mushrooms
either under glass or out of doors and see a
glistening whitish substance on the plants or
nearby you may find the creatures under boards,
stones, rubbish, etc. The best remedies are lime
or salt scattered toward evening near where the
creatures hide, boiled sweet or Irish potatoes
sprinkled with arsenic, and, of course, tidy prem-
ises. -
Be sure to order your supplies of insecticides
and fungicides this month so you will have them
when needed. They will not deteriorate. Good
insecticides include black-leaf forty, aphine,
Paris green, arsenate of lead, hellebore, kerosene
emulsion, scalecide, pyrethrum, whale-oil soap,
vermine, and carbolic acid; slug-shot is a Yermi-
fuge. Good fungicides include corrosive sub-
limate, bordeaux mixture, copper carbonate, for-
malin, potassium sulphide, sulphate of iron.
Two that have both fungicidal and insecticidal
properties are lime sulphur wash, Horriacum and
Pyrox. Use all of these according to directions.
(See December, 1918, GarDEN MaGazine.)
Don't try to make your own insecticides.
You may not succeed, there is always risk of
poisoning, nothing is saved in cost, and you can
buy better standard brands than you can hope
to make, unless you are a skilled chemist or unless
the insecticide is simply the soaking of tobacco
stems to make tobacco tea. Even then black-
leaf forty and nicotine sulphate are superior
because you may know exactly how strong your
solution is by measuring.
For the small gardener an excellent book is
“Insects of Economic Importance,” by Herrick.
It is less than one hundred and fifty pages, costs
only a dollar ($1.10 by mail), but gives condensed.
descriptions of all the principal insects that af-
fect fruit and vegetable crops, poultry, etc.,
together with very complete’ methods of pre-
vention and control.
The Plan of Operations
In laying out a garden have the
long way north and south if pos-
Dray and make the rows run this
77
way. Time is saved and better
=results secured from such arrange-
ment. If the plot runs longest
east and west make your rows run that way
to save time in cultivation. But plant the
tall growing crops like corn, pole beans and tall
peas on the north side so their shade will not
affect the lower crops.
Arrange for rotaron by grouping together—
kale, spinach, lettuce, cabbage, mustard, etc.;
the root crops by themselves—potatoes, beets,
parsnips, turnips, carrots, etc.; the fruit crops in
another group—tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers,
melons, etc.; and the pulse crops in still another—
peas and beans. Divide the garden into four
parts and plant each group in a different part
each year. This will give best results.
Decide upon some unit distance between rows
so the wheel hoes need not be reset and time lost
thereby. Eighteen inches is a good one since
most crops do well at that distance. Double that
is plenty for most of the large growing plants like
lima beans and tall corn; and half the distance,
nine inches, will do for extra quick growing small
crops like onion sets and radishes. These’ may
alternate with the eighteen inch rows of slower
growing vegetables.
Arrange your plantings of vegetables so at least
a third of the garden may have hairy vetch scat-
tered among the growing crop about September
first to supply nitrogen and vegetable matter
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
when plowed or dug the following spring.. Group
the tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, beans, cu-
cumbers, melons and other plants that either die
with the first frost or have practically run their
course by October first so the vetch may be sown
among them. Keep roots, crops, potatoes, etc.,
in another group. (See January GarpEN Maca-
ZINE page 173.)
Nhen necessary to grow vegetables and fruits
in a limited area keep the fruits and the perennial
vegetables (rhubarb, asparagus, etc.) as much to
the sides or one end as possible so the balance of
the area may be cultivated to best advantage.
To plan the vegetable garden to make efficient
and economical use of the soil refer to the ma-
turity tables in the Farm and Garden Rule Book
or THE Garpen Macazine of March, rors,
1916.
For earliest vegetables use a hotbed. This will
forward and protect the plants so several weeks
may be gained. Try bean, beet, carrot, celery,
corn salad, cress, cucumber, dandelion, eggplant,
endive, lettuce, muskmelon, mustard, New
Zealand spinach, onion sets and seed, parsley,
pepper, radish, turnip, spinach and tomato. Of
course, all of these must not be sown this month—
only the hardy ones—the others te follow in
March or April. A hotbed is worth while for
tomatoes alone because it will forward the season
four to six weeks!
Get away from the old style method of raised
plots or beds for your garden crops. It is a time
waster. Plant on the level to get maximum
returns from minimum effort. Raised beds are
useful, however, in damp places because they dry
the soil.
Tools for Victory!
If your garden is only fifty by
z{ seventy-five feet, or even less, it
2 will be worth while to own a wheel
hoe. It is a wonderful time and
labor saver.
When sharpening tools push the
file from you to make its teeth do good work.
At the end of the stroke Jift the file so it does not
touch the blade when you draw it back for the
next stroke. If you try to make it cut on the
return stroke you will break its teeth. It is
made to cut only as it is pushed. If you have
many tools to sharpen a tool grinder will save a
great deal of time and elbow grease.
For effective spraying be sure to have the nozzle
that will make the finest mist-like spray. The
rotary or eddy-chamber style js best for general
use. Its original form is the Vermorel. Later
modifications are “Mistry” and “Friend.”
After spraying always empty out any of the
mixture left in the spray tank; partially fill this
with clean water; rinse it out thoroughly and
force some through the hose and nozzle. This
will not only prevent corrosion of the apparatus
but also the formation of hard particles that
might clog the valves and nozzles.
If you use dust as a fungicide or insecticide in a
small way a tin can punched with holes in the
bottom or a loosely woven sack will answer. But
for better work Norton’s plant duster, Wood-
ason’s powder bellows, or Liggett’s champion
powder gun are superior in the order stated, the
superiority depending upon the amount to be
done. The last named will handle two rows at a
time about as fast as a man will stroll between.
Pay the difference in price and get the brass
Spraying apparatus rather than the iron or gal-
vanized iron kinds. It costs more in the start,
but will las¢ several times as long.
No one best sprayer! ‘The little hand squirt
guns are all right for a few plants but they’re too
hard and too slow for an ordinary commuter- ’
size garden, even—and utterly useless for trees!
For bushes and other low plants the bucket pump
and the compressed air sprayer are just the thing
for small gardens—portable, effective, inexpen-
sive. For garden and orchard larger than half
FEBRUARY, 1919
an acre the barrel type is best. It may be mounted
on wheels or carried in a wagon.
Birds Can Be Made Useful
Make bird houses now so they will
be ready next month to put in place.
If you can’t afford to buy the pretty
houses advertised don’t let that
» prevent your putting up shelters.
Birds are not particular. Even
tomato cans have been used for wrens and blue-
birds. Surely nothing is cheaper than an empty
tin can.
Read “How to Attract the Birds,” by Neltje
Blanchan (by mail $1.65). It gives many easily
applied and inexpensive methods, especially as
to shrubs and trees to plant for ornament and
bird food. The fruit of some of these plants is
more attractive to the birds than are cherries,
strawberries, and raspberries. Thus they protect
the mote valuable fruits. pe
Protect your cherries and ‘berries against
birds by growing mulberries of several varieties
to extend over the season. New American and
Downing are good for dessert. Russian seed-
lings are too mawkish.
Feeding for Better Crops
It is a convenient way to prevent
waste and misapplying of fertilizers
to remember that mitrogenous fer-
uilizers and manures induce rapid,
succulent growth of leaves and
stems and are therefore most useful to apply to
cabbage, lettuce, spinach and similar “leaf”
vegetables; that potash “hardens” the plants so
is desirable as a root crop fertilizer; that the
phosphate fertilizers improve fruit crops such as
apples, peaches, tomatoes and cucumbers; and
that lime “sweetens” the soil and releases other
plant foods in it. (Most garden soils need lime,
except where Rhododendrons are to grow.)
Before mixing manures or commercial fertiliz-
ers together look up “Incompatibles in Fer-
tilizer Mixtures” on page 53 of ‘“The Farm and
Garden Rule Book” (by mail, price $2.20).
To delay now means you may be unable to get
fertilizer at all this season. Order now!
When Your Knife Is Sharp!
Remember these laws for pruning:
finish so no stub or shoulder will be left
where the branch has been removed;
paint with creosote only the heart
wood of wounds where limbs larger
than two inches have been removed; remove all
dead wood and one of each pair of branches that
interfere or chafe; have a good reason for every
cut; when in doubt wait a year; save all fruit
spurs—the gnarly and stubby twigs—on apples,
pears, cherries, and plums; clean up around the
trees; bring in all your tools, rub them with
kerosene, and sharpen them so as to be ready for
next time.
Do it now! Prune the grapes. If you wait
until any growth of any kind of plant starts you
are sure to injure the vines. The later the
pruning the more the “bleeding,” the more the
vines suffer and the less the fruit.
Make grafting scions this month. Choose
twigs of moderate growth from trees of the
desired varieties. Bundle and label them and
bury them in an ice house or on the north side
of a building to keep them dormant until after
the buds on the trees begin to swell. Then is
the time to graft.
While the trees are dormant collect and label
twigs for grafting in late March or early April.
Choose well developed but not too bushy ones.
Bundle them and bury them in the damp saw-
dust of the ice house or under straw, leaves, or
other covering on the north side of a building so
they will remain dormant longer than if on the
trees.
For a supply of early blossom for indoor decora-
tion, late this month and continuing through
FEBRUARY, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 33
Some folks cultivate a garden for the sake of always having fresh
Ur vegetables for their table; others for the healthful exercise it affords; |» »
many have done so as a patriotic duty; and others, to make a little extra money “‘on
the side.”” Whatever has been your purpose, the idea is commendable. Sein
There is however such a splendid opportunity to put the home garden on a
more profitable basis from every standpoint that we want to tell you about it.
Thorough cultiwation is the basis of all crop-improvement, and the use of ¢
up-to-date garden tools is the most vital factor. Clk
Planet Jr. tools, which have been evolved from forty-five years’ experience
at practical crop-cultivation and manufacturing, represent the highest
type of farm and garden implements ever made. They are so constructed
that the most thorough cultivation is possible, thus allowing air and
moisture to have free access to the growing plants and enabling them to
absorb the maximum of nourishment from the soil, which in time produces
strong, vigorous, prolific plants and larger and better crops.
ee
Planet Jr. tools because of their scientific construction are easy to operate—
they take the drudgery out of labor and give real pleasure in the care of a
garden. Because of their practical design they are great savers of time—
in fact they enable you to cultivate in one-half to one-third the time
required with ordinary tools.
Planet Jr. lools
No. 25 Planet Jr. Combined Hill and Drill Seeder, Double and =
Single Wheel Hoe, Cultivator and Plow sows all garden seeds from small- "3
est up to peas and beans, in hills or in drills, rolls down and marks next row at
one passage, and enables you to cultivate up to two acres a day all through the
season. A double and single wheel hoe in one. Straddles crops till 20 inches
high, then works between them. A splendid combination for the family garden.
The wheel-hoe attachments sent out with the No. 25 are what gardeners use
the most, and they will be found invaluable throughout the cultivating season.
No. 17 Planet Jr. Single Wheel Hoe is an indispensable garden tool that
will last a lifetime. A hand-machine whose durable construction enables a man,
3 woman or boy to cultivate the garden in the easiest, quickest and best way.
e Has a pair of weeders, three cultivating teeth and plow—an outfit sufficient
for most garden work. Will soon pay its cost in work saved and in
bigger and better crops.
So no matter what your motive in having a garden, Planet Jr. tools
enable you to make it a real asset in point of saved time and labor,
added health and abundant crops.
S L Allen & Co. Inc.
Box 1108S Philadelphia
72-page Catalogue Free!
Illustrates Planet Jrs. in action and describes over y } “ ;
55 tools, including Seeders, Wheel-Hoe, Horse- > S— we — ‘ :
Hoes, Harrows, Orchard-, Beet- and Pivot-Wheel ac l eS Ny A SS _| | | ERERRRE rene r e
Riding-Cultivators. Write for it to-day! / d Nt : e
] Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
34 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
'Fresrovuary, 1919
March cut well budded branches of Willow, Red
Maple, Peach, Cherry, Forsythia, Japan Quince,
Red-bud, Spice-bush or other early bloomers
and place them in a moderately warm room in
water, which should be changed daily. They
will soon burst into blossom.
Handling and Starting Growing Crops
(¢sa If you dug up and stored rhubarb roots
4\\ as suggested last November now
4)“ is the time to bring them in for
asses, forcing in the house cellar. Plant
the clumps in a warm place (near
the furnace, if not too hot and
dry) buried in ashes kept constantly moist.
It won’t be long before the stalks appear. They
have small leaves and almost skinless stems.
Luscious!
Late this month or early next place headless
barrels over clumps of rhubarb and pack the
outsides with a foot or more of fresh manure.
This will develop stalks early.
Start. beets, onions, cabbage, cauliflower,
Brussels sprouts, celery, kohlrabi,. leek, and
parsley, this month for transplating outdoors
when spring opens. Sow thinly in flats, transplant
when third leaf forms one to two inches apart.
Grow in cool quarters.
Give your palate some new sensations. See
how it likes peppergrass, mustard, fetticus (or
corn salad), swiss chard, okra, Florence fennel,
kohlrabi, and anything else that the seedsmen
carry but which you have not tested. A packet
of seeds costs little but it may mean a genuine
find for you.
Just for fun sow a few deep flats sparingly
with Early Short Horn carrots in drills six inches
apart or place them direct in the hotbed. They
should be ready in ten weeks just when you want
something new. Between the drills you may
sow forcing radishes, which will be out of the way
of the carrots in four or five weeks.
Better buy the few plants of celery, cabbage,
tomato, pepper, eggplant, etc., needed for the
home garden than bother growing them. If
local growers can’t supply the desired kinds
they can be secured through advertisements
or from most seedsmen.
Spread seed potatoes in a well lighted, frostless,
room a month or more before planting to develop
stubby sprouts. Plant carefully so as to not
break off these sprouts. - Earliness and increased
yield are the results.
It’s a good plan to have a “‘first-early”’ in each
of the crops but to use only a small sowing of it
because later varieties are generally superior.
Therefore depend on succession sowings of the
variety you like best for your main supply. To
find out which you do like best it may be neces-
sary to test several varieties each year until
you find the right one.
If you want special varieties of plants for trans-
planting and haven’t facilities for growing them
or don’t want to “fuss,” why not get a local
gardener to grow plants from seeds you furnish,
allowing him to keep and use or sell any surplus
that you do not need?
Before sowing seed of cabbage and related plants
soak it fifteen minutes in mercuric chloride (one
tablet in a pint of water) to kill the bacteria
that cause black-rot during the growing sea-
son. i
February offers about the last chance to start a
crop of mushrooms. Don’t attempt to grow this
crop in the house cellar. The odor from the de-
caying manure is too strong.
For an carly supply of parsley, sage, thyme,
summer savory, marjoram, and other culinary
herbs sow seeds this month.
For best plants to transplant use paper pots
or dirt bands. The latter are merely strips of
paper bent to form cylinders and placed in flats
to hold them in place. They confine the roots
of each plant just asa pot does. Plants so grown
are not more injured when transplanted than if
taken from ordinary earthen pots. Paper pots
are far cheaper than earthen pots.
Try French artichoke this year. It will grow
as far north as Oswego, New York. Write the
New York State Experiment Station at Geneva
for a bulletin on this vegetable. Start the seed
this month.
Is the Old Seed Any Good?
Sprout fifty or one hundred seeds
of each lot left or saved from last
season. Destroy those that sprout
, poorly. Mark each package with
=“the per cent. of living seeds so as to
know how thickly to sow them. Seeds properly
stored in a dry cool place should sprout well as
follows: When one year old: Angelica, turnip-
rooted Chevil, Martynia, peanut, Sea-kale;
Two years: Chevil, dandelion, sweet marjoram,
onion, parsnip, salsify, scorzonera, tansy; Three
years: anise, asparagus bean, bean, caraway,
American cress, dill, horehound, hyssop, leek,
lovage, parsley, pea, rhubarb, sage, savory,
thyme; Four years: Balm, carrot, meadowcress,
fennel, lentil, mustard, pepper, pumpkin rocket
salad, rosemary, tomato, wormwood; Five years
or more: Basil, beet, borage, borecole, broccoli,
cabbage, cardoon, catnip, cauliflower, celery,
chicory, coriander, corn-salad, garden-cress, Para
cress, watercress, cucumber, eggplant, endive,
gourds, kohlrabi, lettuce, winter marjoram,
muskmelon, nasturtium, okra, orach, radish,
spinach, squash, strawberry, tomato, turnip,
watermelon, wax gourd.
What About a “Little Glass’’?
-If you have a greenhouse, hotbed or
»-~-coldframe now is the time to make
: flats—the shallow boxes in which to
€ grow seedlings. It’s easier to do
= this work now than to wait until
the rush of spring arrives.
For hotbeds and coldframes choose a southern
exposure, sheltered on the north by hedge, build-
ing, fence, or wall. Set the low side of the bed
toward the South. Use fresh horse manure
for heating; keep the pile moist and turn it twice
or oftener before packing in the bed; when the
whole pile is steaming fill the bed, spread it evenly
but wait till it becomes warm before packing
and covering with soil; bank earth around the
outside to within three or four inches of the top;
sow seeds only when the temperature has fallen
in the closed bed to below ninety; in watering
spread burlap on the soil to prevent washing;
keep the bed covered until the seeds germinate,
give gradual ventilation in the warm part of the
days.
Keep coldframes and hotbeds covered during
cold weather with mats, old quilts, etc., to exclude
frost. Should frost enter keep the sash covered
during the day to exclude sunlight until after
the ground has thawed inside the frames.
Hardy plants will stand frost but not sun while
frozen.
If you haven't any glass at all—not a green-
house nor a hotbed—you may start flower plants
in the dwelling now, though it is harder to get
satisfactory seedlings in steam, hot air, even hot
water warmed houses than in the greenhouse or
the hotbed. You might try your luck with
Cockscomb, China Aster, Verbena, Marguerite
Carnation, Sweet Sultan, Periwinkle, Vernon
Begonia, the seeds being sown early this month.
If well handled the plants should be in twosand
one half inch pots by bedding out time.
Of course, if you are handy with tools you may
make your own coldframes and hotbeds. But
usually these will cost you more—if you charge
for your time—than do the machine made
standard ones. These are sold at reasonable
prices by all the greenhouse companies.
If you make your hotbed frames be sure to
construct them so they may be taken apart,
dried and stcred flat under cover during the
summer. Thus they will occupy little space and
will last longer especially if painted before being
used each season or two. ,
If you have hotbed or greenhouse space to
spare plant fair-sized potato tubers ‘““most eyed
end up” in flats of sand until sprouted then pot
singly in eight inch pots only half full of’soil, the
balance to be filled in as the sprouts grow.
Make first hotbeds by the middle of the month;
others at intervals of two weeks. Thus you may
have a succession of high, medium, and low
temperatures.
Get catalogues of several greenhouse building
companies. You are likely to find items that
will save time and labor or otherwise be of great
advantage to have. sary
Now is the time to discard all plants that have
survived their usefulness. The space they occupy
will be needed very soon for the spring plantings.
“Clean up!” “Throw out!”
Before planting cuttings and seedlings have the.
quarters clean and sanitary. Remove all soil
inside with extra strong bordeaux mixture and
nicotine sulphate combined. When dry, white-
wash the wood before putting in the sand or soil.
Sterilize the soil with steam if possible or by
baking or a drench of formalin. The former
two are better than the last because they kill
weed seeds as well as the spores of disease, and
the eggs of insects and the insects themselves.
If you don’t know how to grow plants from
cuttings or “‘slips” look up the Reminder of
February, 1916.
Experienced people know by a glance when
“ereen-wood” 1s ripe enough to make cuttings.
If you don’t know bend the shoot slowly between
your thumb and forefinger. If it suddenly snaps
in two leaving a clean break like a first class
stringless or “snap” bean it is exactly right.
But if it crunches it is either too young or too
old. After a, few trials you’ll recognize the right
condition and won’t need to make this test.
For rooting cuttings or “slips” nothing compares
with clean, sharp sand of medium texture (size
of grains). What will go through a flour sieve
is mostly too fine. ;
In making cuttings always use a keen edged
knife—as sharp as a razor. Make a clean cut,
square across the stem or nearly so is better than
a long slanting one. Cuttings two to three
inches long are convenient lengths for “green
wood.” .
More roomt As potting and transplanting
time advances make provision for the expansion
needed in greenhouse, hotbed and coldframe.
If you have a greenhouse provide brackets and
shelves for the extra flats. '
If your Palms, Ferns or other foliage plants
are too large for their pots shift them now to
larger ones.
An Early Start for the Flower Garden
For earliest Cannas, Dahlias, Glad-
ioli, start the “bulbs” this month
in pots. Dutch bulbs potted last
fall may still be brought in—if
=<. you still have a supply.
If you will need plants for bedding out next
spring propagate from cuttings now—Geranium,
Acalypha, Coleus, Achyranthes, Heliotrope,
Verbena, bedding Begonias, Petunia, Salvia,
etc., from the stock plants lifted before frost
last fall. (See “Under Glass” section of this
month’s Reminder).
Now is the time to sow seeds of hardy annuals
for next spring’s garden. Transplant to the
open only when the ground has warmed up.
Why not try half a dozen annuals that you don’t
know except from the catalogue description?
Try another half dozen next year until you have
gone through the whole list. You are really
missing something by not doing this.
Start seed boxes in the cellar if you have no better
arrangement. See Vol. II, page 34 for sugges-
tions.
1919
PreBprRvuary,
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Hardy Roses Hardy Roses
We will accept orders up to March
15th for Dickson’s Irish grown dor-
mant stock. ‘By the latest ruling of
the Federal Horticultural Board’ it
will not be possible to import any rose
plants after July Ist, so if you are
planning a rose garden by all means
“DO IT NOW”
If you do not have our list of
varieties on hand, send for it.
CHARLES H. TOTTY CO.
Madison New Jersey
SLT
CCT titi
Ornamental Evergreens
2 ft. High for $5.00
Delivered to Your Door by Parcel Post
This collection includes 2 Pines, 2 Arborvitz, 2
Colorado Blue Spruces and 2 White Spruces, all
2 ft. tall, choice trees.
These trees are suitable for general planting. The
Stock is from the Little Cree Farms and has been
raised from seed there. The quality is the best.
Send Remittance
With Order
nN
i
TG
i
»| Specialties
(Sixth edition, issue of 1918)
feces most complete and helpful
book of hardy garden Perenni-
als, Shrubs and Trees that I have
ever issued.
Specialties for Early
Spring Planting
New French Lilacs, Philadelphus and Deutzias
—a complete collection of Lemoine’s new
creations.
New Japanese and Asiatic Shrubs—new cotoneasters,
enkianthus, berberis, flowering cherries, corylopsis,
etc., for the border and rock garden.
Dwarf Evergreens—rare specimens for formal gardens,
lawn groups and rock garden plantings.
Peonies—the most complete collection of herbaceous and
tree peonies in the world. :
gata ee novelties of my own raising. (Awarded the Panama-Pacific Gold
medal.
' Perennials, Phloxes, Asters, Delphiniums, Chrysanthemums, etc., etc.
This book, containing 112 pages of text, 30 full page illustrations (13 colored plates) is already
in the hands of most well informed gardeners, but if you have not received the sixth edition,
issue of 1918, or it has been mislaid, a copy will be sent to you promptly on request.
BERTRAND H. FARR—Wyomissing Nurseries Co.
104 Garfield Avenue, Wyomissing, Penna.
B Gdns
COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE
These illustrations show the
hardy, healthy stock we are
offering from
Little Cree Farms
ARBORVITA
Why We Are Making This Unusual Offer
We have faith in our trees. They are our best
salesmen. If we can get you acquainted with our
stock you will become an enthusiastic tree planter.
Why? Because our trees live. 75% of our annual
business is with old customers. The very best evi-
dence that our trees and service please. We aim
to add 1000 new customers to our list this year.
To accomplish this we have made this introductory
offer small so that it is available to all.
Write for Booklet of Little Cree Farms
20,000,000 evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs of many
varieties are growing there to select from.
The booklet is illustrated, many of the trees are described and
prices are given.
We have Engineers and Landscape men on our permanent staff.
Bring your tree problems to us and let us help you solve them.
Little Tree Harms (Near Woston)
7 NURSERIES OF
American Forestry Company
Division A, 15 Beacon St., Boston, Mass.
mn
wn
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we wuil, too
35
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36 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Frpruary, 1919
There’s only one motto
You need
To succeed—
“BETTER”
The other man’s winning?
Then you
Must do
BETTER!
N no other way than by repeating this
little poem by Cooke, could I illustrate
so well what it is that has yearly made
PETERSON ROSES better and still bet-
ter, until now they are freely acknowledged
by rosarians the world over the best that
are anywhere produced.
N inborn and ever-increasing love for
the rose, combined with enthusiasm
and hard work, has produced a result
which annually brings forth, entirely unso-
licited, literally hundreds of such letters
as follow:
Gowanda, N. Y., April 24, 1918
“Of all the rose growers from whom I have
procured goods, am glad to advise that yours
show the healthiest and sturdiest growth, and
furnish the greatest number of blooms.”
W. J. Miller
123 Wyoming Ave., Scranton, Pa.,
June 14, 1918
“It may interest you to know that I or-
dered roses from five different concerns, and
that your plants were far superior to any
I received.”
Harry Simpson
“A LITTLE BOOK ABOUT ROSES”
sent on request, tells you the whole story
Georceubreterson
Rose and Peony Specialist
Box 50, Fair Lawn, N. J.
AS OTHERS SEE IT
Increased Fruit Yield.—If the spirit of rev-
ered old “Johnny Appleseed.” still wanders over
the plains country of the Middle West, it must cer-
tainly be with a sense of pleasure and satisfac-
tion. For the final estimates of the U. S. De-
partment of Agriculture place the 1918 commer-
cial apple crop at 25,404,500 barrels, or 396,500
more than were looked for in November, and
nearly 3,000,000 more than the crop of
1917.
Acid Phosphate for Corn.—An increase of
10 bushels to the acre was secured by the appli-
cation of acid phosphate on corn land the past
season on some demonstration plots on farm
of L. E. Marrs, Shelby County, Ohio. In codper-
ation with the county farm bureau, Mr. Marrs
planted eight rows of corn of 450 hills each to
which no fertilizer was applied. To similar
plots acid phosphate was applied at the rate of
250 pounds per acre, and at the rate of 500 pounds
per acre, respectively. The unfertilized plot
produced 67 bushels and 38 pounds per acre.
The plot to which applications at the rate of
250 and 50c pounds per acre were applied each
yielded 76 bushels and 12 pounds per acre. The
corn from the fertilized, was better matured than
that on the unfertilized plots.
Purple and Mauve in the Border.—Part of
the joy of gardening is the planning of color
schemes, the designing of border combinations,
the harmonizing of varietal shades under varying
conditions. But as the true gardener is glad to
have his discoveries and inventions appreciated
and utilized by others, so he is ready to see the
good points of other folks’ achievements and to
make use of them. Such an accomplishment
that is well worth copying, according to The
Garden is a combination of Verbena venosa and
dwarf Ageratum in a long narrow border in the
gardens of Lady Binning at Tyninghame. The
purple verbena fills the centre of the bed, being
planted close enough to make a solid, rich mass.
This is surrounded by a wide edging of the con-
trasting ageratum, and the general effect is re-
ported as being strikingly rich, unusual and
withal quiet and dignifiled—qualities which all
too often are conspicuous by their absence in
annual “bedding plots.”
Ant Control—A correspondent suggests the
following as a method of getting rid of ants:
“Fill small saucers about one half inch to the
edge with molasses and place these in the trails
of the ant. Put aman on the job to watch them
and as soon as the ants crowd around the edges
of the saucers simply push them into the mo-
lasses. Keep this up for a day and not many will
be left.”
Not many of that generation, perhaps, but
how about the others that are hatching out down
in the nest as fast as the queen or mother ant
who never leaves the sacred precincts of the
home, can lay eggs? This sounds strangely
like the classic plan for putting an ambulance at
the foot of a cliff to pick up the people that
fall over the edge, instead of placing a strong
fence along the brink. The drowning method
may work, but by all the teachings of nature
study, it would be more effective to single out
an ant, mark him for identification purposes if
necessary, and track him to his lair, thereupon
destroying with boiling water or carbon bi-
sulphide the fountain head of the invasion.
Nor would this method of “‘keeping a man on
the job” be any less appropriate or expensive
in these days of labor shortage, than the practice
of stationing an able bodied worker to push the
accumulating insects into saucers of molasses.
Resistant Chestnuts—Mr. H. F. Kellerman,
Acting Chief of the Bureau of Plant Industry,
reports that during the past year several American
Chestnut trees have been located which are
apparently highly resistant to the chestnut blight
which has made practically a clean sweep of the
original chestnut stands in New England, New
York and Pennsylvania. This discovery, he
says, gives a promise of obtaining, by selection
and propagation, a strain of American Chestnuts
which can be used for reforestation. Hitherto
resistance has been found only in oriental species,
which, while suitable for nut production, are too
small for timber uses.
The Chrysanthemum Gall-fly—The Flor-
ists’ Exchange reports that Chrysanthemums
all over the United States have been more or
less seriously affected by the “Chrysanthemum
midge or gall-fly during the past season,” prob-
ably owing to the fact that many growers did
not notice the insect until it had become very
numerous. As a control measure it recommends
fumigating every three days for a period of 30
days with hydrocyanic acid gas; or every two
days for a similar period with nicotine paper.
In either case, it emphasizes the necessity of
fumigating after midnight, since the insect has a
habit of emerging from the gall-like swellings it
produces on the plants, between midnight and
morning.
Salsify Stalks, an Asparagus Substitute.—
One of the commonest difficulties in growing
salsify, which some people refuse to know as
other than “oyster plant,” is the tendency of the
roots to fork and make unsatisfactory growth
both lengthwise and diametrically. Of course
the cause of this tendency is a shallow, ill-
prepared soil and an incomplete mixing in of the
manure used. But a knowledge of why the
trouble occurred is of but little help when a crop
is found to be developing in that direction. A
suggestion that is of value, however, is made b
a contributor to The Garden (England), who
advises that such a crop be left in the ground over
winter. Being a biennial, it will, the succeeding
spring, send up flower stalks or “‘chards”’ as he
calls them which, he says, if not permitted to
exceed six inches in height, “make a nice dish
served like Asparagus.”
Spills from Phlox Stems.—The word “spills”
always brings to my mind such early works of
J. M. Barrie as ‘“My Lady Nicotine” and “When
a Man’s Single.” I thought that those home
made pipe lighters were a thing of the mid-
Victorian past—although the war matches of
to-day are certainly cause enough to wish the
twisted paper tapers back into our daily life.
Probably that is what has actually happened in
England, for I note in a recent issue of The Garden
a paragraph of praise for the common herbaceous
Phlox as a source of durable, long-burning,
cleanly, and eminently satisfactory spills. The
writer says, “With matches quite rare and often
unobtainable, wood impossible, and paper and
cardboard most objectionable for lighting candle
or Jamp, by reason of the abundant residue of
their timber, the Phlox spills have stood one in
excellent stead. Of ideal thickness and re-
quiring no other preparation than breaking into
g-inch lengths and drying in an oven for a night
or two, it is surprising how well they answer and
how long they endure.”
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
¢
Frepruary, 1919
os
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
37
“JOHN BAER’’ TOMATO
By Their Fruits Ye Shall Know Them
A WAR TOMATO PATCH
(from The Country Gentleman)
I have been experimenting for several years with intensive methods of
tomato culture and have now demonstratcd that truly remarkable yields may
be obtained even under adverse weather condilions. I selected the ‘John Baer”
variety and had a patch in my backyard in town 4 feet wide and 104 feet
long. Approximately 435 plants were sek in that area and from them were
picked 3.490 pounds of ripe tomatoes fit for market. That would amount
to a yield of 52.2]. tons to the acre, and at prices thal were obtained from a
New
Crop Seed
PRICES:
“John Baer” Tomato
‘Perfect Fruit in 30 Days— The Best Extremely Early Tomato on Earth
“‘John Baer’’ Tomato Produces Perfect, Solid, High-Crown, Beautiful, Brilliant Red Tomatoes in
30 Days from Large, Strong, Well-Matured Plants Grown in Veneer Bands with Roots Undisturbed
Pkts. 25c; 1 oz. 75c; 2 ozs. $1.45; 14 Ib. $2.75; 14 lb. $5.00; 1 Ib. $10.00.
We offer Veneer Bands 75c per 100.
GOOD QUALITIES OF THE “JOHN BAER’? TOMATO
“ Spruce
Horsiord’s The best plants for cold cli-
mates are those which have
Cold been tried in the North. Many kinds which
will do in Southern N. Y. or N. J. will not al-
Weather
Plants
to Northern New England. Ask for cat-
alogue N.
way, S winter in Northern New England. My
F. H. HORSFORD, CHARLOTTE, VT.
pth anniversary annual offers about all the really
hardy shrubs, trees, vines, herbaceous plants,
lilies, wild flowers, hardy ferns, &c., suitable
Me urdyas Oaks ROSES
Pot-grown rose bushes, on own roots, for everyone
anywhere. Plantany time. Old favorites and new
and rare sorts, the creain of the world’s pro-
ductions. ‘‘Dingee Roses” known
as the best for 67 years. Safe de-
livery guaranteed anywhere in U.S.
Write for a copy of
Our ‘‘New Guide to Rose
39
School of Horticulture for Women
AMBLER, PA.
Register now for entrance in January, 1919—Prac-
tical and theoretical instruction given. Diploma
awarded for successful completion of two years
course. Short Spring courses. Increasing de-
mand for women trained in Horticultural work.
Fruit, flower and vegetable culture, poultry,
bees, preserving, etc. Catalogues sent on
application to
Elizabeth Leighton Dee, Director.
Culture’ for 1919. It’s FREE.
Illustrates wonderful ‘Dingee Roses” in
natural colors. It's more than a cata-
logue—it’s the lifetime experience of
the Oldest and Leading Rose Growers in
America, A practical work on rose and flower culture
for the amateur. Offers over 500 varieties of Roses and other plants,
bulbs and seeds, and tells how to grow them. Edition limited.
Established 1850. 70 Greenhouses.
The DINGEE & CONARD CO., Box 237, West Grove, Pa.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
40 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE Fresrvuary, 1919
= sc kr Se ptREC Cun
i state teakantere
ddddads
QT hee eth Rite “iS
A111 dddd dddddddddiddat
Serrrrereerenrerr PEPRETIOTE
ad ae
The Sweetest Sweet Corn
Like Golden Bantam, but larger, sweeter and better. Ears 8 inches
long and the color of June butter. Hence the name “Buttercup.”
This corn is deliciously sweet and tender. There is no other corn
quite equal to it.
Cabbage That Is a Real Luxury
The Stanley cabbage is a really delicious vegetable, As superior to common cabbage
as sweet corn is to held corn. It is as tender and delicate as Brusscis Sprouts and cauli-
flower and far more easily raised.
You can get fine results from all Harris Pedigree Seed because every lot is tested and the
percentage that will grow is marked on the label. So you know just how thick to
plant.
Send for our free catalogue and learn about our new strains of Peas, Beans, Beets, Corn,
Cauliflower, Tomatoes, Melons, etc. See why our method of selecting the Seed from the
best individual plant enables you to produce better sized and more delicious vegetables
in greater quantities.
Write for the free Catalogue to-day — it shows how to have a truly successful garden and
enables you to buy direct from the actual grower at wholesale prices.
JOSEPH HARRIS COMPANY, Box 51, Coldwater, N. Y.
_A Garden of
Water Lilies
is one of the most unique
and charming gardens that
you can have. Most varie-
ties grow readily in a tub or pool, giving a
magnificent display of blooms. Some of
these plants should be included in even the smallest
garden.
Write me to-day for full information about growing
Water Lilies; ask what varieties are best adapted
for outdoor growing.
WILLIAM TRICKER, Water Lily Specialist
Box E, Arlington, N. J.
Largest establishment in America devoted exclusively
to Water Lilies and water plants.
A Garden Library
Dollar and a Quarter
4
Bound volumes of THE GARDEN MAGAZINE represent the
ied on Eoeerne It is teally a loose leaf cyclopedia of
orticulture. ou are kept up to date. ave your copies of
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE and Jet us bind een fe you.
here is a new volume every six months, and Vol. 27 is ready
now. Send your magazines by Parcel Post and we will supply
index, and bind them for you for $1.25. If youhave not kept all
of the numbers, we will supply the missing copies at 25c each, or
we will supply the bound volume complete for $2.00. THE GAR-
DEN MAGAZINE can be of more service this year than ever
before, and you can get most out of the magazine when you bind
it and keep it in permanent form. Address:
Circulation Department
GARDEN MAGAZINE Garden City, New York
DAHLIAS
“The Cream of the Best’’
Exquisite tints of orange, salmon, ecru,
white, cream, with scarlet and maroon
veinings and markings, will be found
in this collection of
Primulinus
Hybrid Gladioli| FJ) A HLIAS
The flowers are medium size, carried on long
straight spikes that are superb for cutting. 2 ain sé
The bulbs are grown at Meadowvale 7 9
Farms, and are of blooming size only. hree ae ee of
ecide ert
One Hundred Bulbs in A collection of Three for Two Dollars
GEISHA SUPERBA
KING ALBERT
KING OF THE AUTUMN
“Grampion,” the new champion, Dr. Tevis, Geo.
Walters, Jane Selby, Madonna and the new 1919
English Novelties. Send for Catalogue.
JAMES H, BOWMAN, 497 Broadway, Paterson, N. J:
Many Varieties for $15
A box of these bulbs will make splendid
presents for your garden-loving friends.
My Price List for 1919
will be mailed to you or your friends, if
you will send me the correct name and
address. Bulbs should be ordered soon—
so it will be well to send for the booklet
to-day.
ARTHUR COWEE
Meadowvale Farms
Berlin, New York
In addition to this exceptional offering |
I have a choice selection of other Eng-
lish and Dutch novelties of unusual
interest. Send for my list now as the
supply is limited.
TL
A. W. BEEBE South Orange, N. J.
S000) 0 NTR
alll
Working a Garden for Profit
Y DAUGHTER has been a cripple
since birth, can use only one leg and
one arm but that did not prevent her
from doing her bit with a War Garden
last summer, proving where there is a will there
is a way.
This year she had a strawberry bed 15 x 48 ft.,
from which she gathered fifty-nine quarts of
large sweet strawberries; three rows of raspber-
ries, from which she gathered forty-three quarts;
twenty-five quarts of currants from twelve
bushes; and four market baskets of grapes from
three vines. Even her small cherry trees yielded
asmall amount. She also has a vegetable garden
45x 114 ft. And raised: two bushels of onions,
fifteen pounds of navy beans, nineteen quarts of
wax beans, thirteen quarts of peas, fifteen heads
of cauliflower, ten stalks of celery, two pecks of
pickles, two bushels of carrots, three bushels of
tomatoes, enough radishes, lettuce, Swiss chard,
and peppers for table use all summer. In an-
other part of the yard she had three rows 111
ft. long from which she raised enough cabbage
to make four gallons of sauerkraut.
As early as the ground could be worked she
planted an ounce of Yellow Danvers onion seed,
next to these she planted early peas, then early
beans. As soon as the onion seedlings were big
enough to handle, they were transplanted be-
tween the pea and bean rows. When the peas
and beans were through yielding they were
pulled up which gave room to the onions. About
the middle of August when the onions were ripe
they were dug up and in their place she planted
one row of celery, one row of late beets, two
rows of lettuce, and two rows of radishes; thus
getting three crops from one piece of ground.
Between the tomato plants she planted mid-
summer peas. By the time the tomatoes needed
the space the peas were ready to be pulled up.
She also planted tomato plants between the
cucumbers and where a vine ran under a tomato
plant there is where the nicest pickles grew. The
cucumber vines would have given a much better
yield if we had had rain; but as the season was
very dry the cucumbers’ careers were short.
This spring she had two hotbeds and sold
$17 worth of cabbage and tomato plants. She
saves some of her own seed and does all the work
herself so the expenses are small. She says her
success is due entitely to help and encourage-
ment she gets from Tue Garpen Macazine.
The following data will give some idea of her
actual profits: Sold: Cabbage and tomato
plants, $17.00; nine qts. of strawberries at 20
cents qt. $1.80; twenty-one qts. raspberries at
30 cents $6.30; twenty-three qts. currants at
12 cents $2.76; one-half bushel tomatoes at $1
per bushel 50 cents; seven dozen peppers at 10
cents doz. 7o cents. ‘Total sold: $29.06. Bought:
one package beet seed, 5 cents; two packages
cabbage seed, 10 cents; one ounce onion seed,
4o cents; three packages radish seed, 15 cents;
three packages pea seed, 30 cents; one package
Swiss chard seed, 5 cents. Total bought; $1.10.
Used: fifty qts. strawberries at 20 cents, $10.00;
twenty-two qts. raspberries, at 30 cents, $6.60;
two qts. currants at I2 cents, $.24; two and one-
half bushels tomatoes at $1 per bushel, $2.50;
four baskets of grapes at 75 cents, $3.00; two
bushels onions at $2.50, $5.00; fifteen lbs. navy
beans at 14 cents, $2.10; nineteen qts. wax beans
at 14 cents, $2.57; thirteen qts. peas at I5 cents,
$1.95; fifteen heads cauliflower at 15 cents, $2.25;
ten stalks celery at 10 cents, $1.00; two pecks
pickles at $1.50,3.00; two bushels carrots at $1.50,
$3.00. Total sold: $29.16 plus total used, $43.21
equals $72.37 minus total bought $1.10 gives a
profit of $71.27 countihg the work as pleasure and
gain in health. _ Mrs. Anna Seibel, Mokena, Il.
Advertisers will appreciate your mcntioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
LY
eer yoo | THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 41
Lc th
ih
—
ll
Ready for “Victory”
Planting Year
The War is won and our faces are now set
toward the future, toward making this a more
beautiful world in which io live. - In such a
world there must be trees and flowers to sat-
isfy the heart and delight the eye.
We have increased our stock in anticipation.
We believe our Nurseries, although not the
‘largest in acreage, to be the most complete in
sizes and varieties of any in the Empire State.
Every department of hardy ornamental plants
is represented from the slender Lily of the
Valley to the majestic Oak, from the delicate
Mountain Laurel to the stately Douglas Fir.
LILY OF THE VALLEY
We have spared neither time nor money to keep all our trees transplanted so that
they will thrive when planted in new surroundings. Every tree, large or small, is
well cared for and in the “pink” of condition.
ON 1919 Spring Cata-
logue is now ready for
distribution.
We're looking for a great rush of Spring business on account of the many orders
delayed during the war. Some departments are
sure to be exhausted before planting time. Order
early and secure your planting list complete.
A Word About Prices
Many Rosedale Trees have been growing from
twelve to twenty years. They can now be sold
at especially attractive prices because they were
chiefly produced when labor and materials were
far cheaper. As increased costs have come to
stay, at least for the next two years, Trees are
bound to increase in price. You will save money
and gain valuable time by ordering this Spring.
®
It contains a complete des-
cription of the latest Novelties
and Specialties in vegetables
and flowers, as well as Stand-
ards, which can be grown in
your garden.
It is attractively and conveniently
arranged, with pictures and text,
and we feel sure that it will help
you in planning your vegetable
or flower garden.
A copy of this Catalogue sent free
upon request. In writing kindly
mention “‘Garden Magazine.”
Strap sales
30 & 32 Barclay Street New York
Send to-day for the roro
Rosedale Catalogue
Rosedale Nurseries
S. G. HARRIS, Proprietor
Box A, Tarrytown, N. Y.
NNSYLV
QUALITY
LAWN MOWERS
You probably learned last summer
t
Wh
hat a cheap mower doesn’t ay.
en you buy your new one, let it
be a self—sharpening, easy-running
“PENNSYLVANIA” Pv.
A
Townsend TRIPLEX
CUTS A SWATH 86 INCHES WIDE
Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, the
TRIPLEX will mow more lawn in a day than the
peseareraeenanes= a best motor mower ever
WNSENDS TRIPLEX made; cut it better and at
Vey 7 a fraction of the cost.
ll
iS
The public is warned
not to purchase Mow-
ers infringing the
Townsend Patent No.
1,209,519 Dec. 19,
6
Tt will mow more lawn than any
three ordinary horse-drawn mowers
with three horses and three men.
Write for catalogue illustrating all
types of Lawn Mowers
" S.P. TOWNSEND & CO.
23 Central Avenue, Orange, N. J.
At all
Hardware Dealers
and Seedsmen
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Oregon Beauly
Wing’s Dahlias
When summer begins to wane and the gardens to lose their
splendor, the Dahlia comes into its own. Gone are the stately
Iris and the glowing Phlox; the Peony is but a memory. The
cool days of autumn sound the kne!l of the um-loving flowers,
but stimulate to an opulence of bloom the Dahlia, last of the
lovely train. Al! the colors of all the seasons are combined in
her blossoms; the delicacy of the first spring flowers, the tints
of June roses, the brilliancy of autumn leaves. The forms are as
varied as the colors, so changed and improved is this flower.
Massive blooms of velvet and satin are found, together with
forms as airy and graceful as snow crystals.
We want a!l who love beauty in the home to write for our
catalogue describing our two hundred varieties of Dahlias.
Many of these are obtainable from no other source in America.
To those who wish to obtain a beautiful collection for a moder-
ate cost, we offer the following:
Eleven Wanenies for $2.20
Value $2.70
Oregon Beauty—Peony, immense velvety cherry red.
Countess of Malesbury—Cactus, delicate peach pink.
Libelle—Cactus, deep purple.
Perle de Lyon—Decorative, pure white.
Brigadier—Cactus, bright crimson.
Rosd Pink Century—Single, violet rose.
J. H. Jackson—Cactus, velvety maroon.
Jack Rose—Decorative, color rose of same name.
Prince of Yellows—Cactus, soft primrose.
Debutante—Cactus, Tryian Rose.
Glowing Gem—Single, deep crimson.
All good, strong roots
The Wing Seed Company
The House of Quality and Maderate Prices
Box 1326
FRENCH
ASPARAGUS BEANS bear GIGANTIC pods 30 inches long.
Produce abundantly anywhere. Wonderfully delicious—rare flavor.
Entirely stringless. A Century old Oriental delicacy that has been
long grown and prized in the best American and French gardens.
Try this surpassing variety in comparision with common beans this
season. Free Bulletin for mentioning Garden Magazine.
Pkt. (about 300 seeds) $1.00 postpaid.
J. A. & B. LINCOLN, Growers and Importers
39 South LaSalle Street
PRIMROSES
That everyone may have a chance to
add a collection of the charming Eng-
lish Primroses to their gardens, we are
making the following offer for February
only: 1 each of Polyanthus Munstead,
Primula Bulleyana, capitata, cortu-
soides, denticulata, frondosa, Japonica,
Poissoni, pulverulenta, Mrs. Berkeley
and Red Hugh, amounting to over $5.00
for $3.00. All year old roots.
Do not miss this opportunity. We
want every one to become acquainted
with the beauty of Primroses.
Choice and Rare
Wolcott Nurseries, “(67%
Jackson, Michigan
Mechanicsburg, Ohio
Chicago, Illinois
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY, 1919
Round About the Home Plot
How Much Can a Hen Earn?
PROF. Ray E. Jones, poultry specialist of the
Connecticut State College at Storrs is planning
to prove by means of four boys’ and girls’ poultry
clubs that 300 hens can yield a profit of $1,000 a
year. He believes that if the boys and girls
can make such flocks pay there will be no reason
to dispute the claim that hens are profitable as
an investment.
As outlined each of the four clubs will consist
of ten or more boys or girls or both whose flocks
must make up a total of at least 300 but not
more than 500 hens, distributed in any way
among the members. Each flock must be
managed according to the direction of the poultry
specialist. Once a month the club will meet
with the local leader and the specialist to dis-
cuss methods and progress. Each flock owner
must keep cost accounts and bring their figures
to each meeting.
Here is an idea that should be valuable to
any one or any club anywhere. It would seem
that Professor Jones would be willing to get
information from other boys and girls than those
who are members of the clubs of which only four
can be handled because of the work entailed.
We suggest, therefore, that our readers whether
they are boys or girls in fact or in spirit write
Professor Jones to ask afhliation with the project
and offer to put the rules and methods in prac-
tise so as to add their experience to that of the
club members.
Whether or not such affiliation be possible it
will be a good plan to keep accounts of the home
flock as to cost of feed and other necessaries,
amount and value of the time employed in care
of the flock and its quarters, yield of eggs and
poultry, value of manure, utilization of house-
hold scraps and garden waste; in short, a complete
debit and credit account. If at the end of the
year or even sooner the flock is found to be un-
profitable the reason why should be determined.
It may be old or inferior hens, poor stock, bad
management, too late hatching, or any one of a
dozen other causes that may be easily rectified.
The account will thus teach a valuable lesson.
Blood Spots in Eggs :
Beginners and people uninformed in poultry
matters, generally jump to the conclusion that
eggs are unfit to eat if they show blood spots.
The beginner generally believes that there is
something wrong with the egg itself, whereas
the consumer thinks the clots are caused by dead
germs, since he believes that the eggs have been
partially incubated. Both surmisings are wrong.
When pullets begin to lay, or when hens that
have been resting start again small blood clots
are often found in a few of the eggs, more par-
ticularly. those laid first. These clots may float
near one end of the yoke, or be seen in the al-
bumen. They merely denote a slight derange-
ment of the laying apparatus. Among the
causes are strains brought about by the laying
or by the passing of a very large egg, sometimes
also internal fatness, constipation, a too stim-
ulating diet, or a surfeit of animal food in the
mash. Any of these may cause a rupture of some
little blood vessel.
When the eggs are broken, blood specks may
be easily removed either before or after cooking.
If desired, eggs so affected may be detected by
holding them before a strong light to note the
condition of the contents. In no way are the
eggs injured for use, or for hatching
Unless the individual layer is located and
separated from the flock, the whole flock may be
treated without difficulty, generally an iron tonic
and a laxative will rectify matters, or a little
sulphur may be added to the soft food each sec-
ond day for a week or so.
When streaks of blood are noted on the out-
side of the egg, these are generally caused by the
act of laying. Usually only the first few eggs laid
by the hen ever show this difficulty; the trouble
Passes away in a few days.
Fowls Need Succulent Foods in Winter
As a large part of the fowl’s body is composed
of water, a sufficient amount of water must be
furnished to meet this need. This is supplied
not only by the drinking water, but also by foods
containing large percentages of water. During
most of the year, the birds are able to obtain
more or less succulence when allowed range, but
at this season, when they are kept in, the poultry-
man must provide it.
The poultry department of the New Jersey
Agricultural Experiment Station recommends
mangel beets, sprouted oats and cabbage. Man-
gel beets may be sliced in halves or quarters and
nailed to the wall or supporting posts of the
house at such height that the birds will haye to
reach just a trifle for them. ‘This also provides
exercise. Oats may be sprouted in a warm, dark
room and fed tothe birds onceaday. Itis a good
plan to have a rack about five feet high, containing
eight or ten trays. The oats may be seen to
sprout in such a manner that there is always a
fresh supply of them. Table scraps, beet tops,
cabbage and similar materials are relished by the
fowls. Aside from supplying moisture, succulent
foods help to make the other feeds palatable
and greatly aid in increasing the egg production.
The Fresher the Hatching Egg the Better.
Eggs more than three days old are noticeably
slower to hatch and the chicks that come out are
often less sturdy than those from fresher speci-
mens. If ever necessary to store eggs longer
than this place them on their sides in cork dust,
cotton batting or dry sawdust in a cool closet
and turn them over every day to keep the con-
tents from sticking to the shells.
Eggs for Hatching.—Eggs to be saved for
hatching should not be subjected to high or low
temperature. \Best results are generally ob-
tained by keeping them in a cool place—about
50 degrees. It is not advisable to hold hatching
eggs longer than ten days or at most, two weeks.
Where conditions are favorable February, March,
and April are the best months for hatching, but
unless one has good quarters for the chicks,
hatching in cold weather is attended with dif-
ficulties and the chicks are likely to suffer unless
they can be kept warm.
Drowning of Chickens in Shell——The turn-
ing of eggs in the incubator is a necessary process,
until the eighteenth day. From that time for-
ward the eggs should not be turned. The reason
is, that each chick turns itself in the egg so its
beak is uppermost. If the egg is turned during
the last day or two of incubation, the chick may
have its beak turned downward into the fluid
inside of the egg; therefore, unless it has the
ability to turn over again it may drown in even
this small amount of liquid, A very large pro-
portion of the chickens die in the shell because
of this unnecessary turning. Often where they
succeed in turning over they may hatch but be
deformed. The less the eggs are disturbed
during the last two or three days the better.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
%
FreBpRuaARY, 1919
TREES SHRUBS
Ours is one of the largest acreages of
Ornamental Nursery Stock
growing in this country
WE spend but little money advertising
it, but we spend a lot of good money
growing a product calculated to meet the
requirements of those living in northern
latitudes. Our advertising is largely done
by pleased customers, who speak kind
words of us to their friends.
; Our 1919 Handbook
Free for the asking
Will show the variety if not the extent of our
nursery products. Give usa trial order, and we
guarantee you will become another advertising
medium for the
BAY STATE NURSERIES
North Abington Massachusetts
W. H. WYMAN, Prop’r
EVERGREENS PERENNIALS
B. F. Stalnaker’s GLADIOLUS
COLOR HARMONY and TINT BOOK
Like no other floral catalogue you ever read. A COLOR
BOOK without COLORS. “‘It points the way to still greater
heights of beauty to be reached by the use of this already
beautiful flower.” By a new COLOR SYSTEM it offers
the cream of over 250 named American, Holland and French
gladiolus varieties in such a way that you can make your
selections in as many minutes as it previously took hours
poring over long “color descriptions,’ whether you want
them of harmonious or contrasting colors. Can order by name or in
beautiful COLOR HARMONY COLLECTIONS (at about one half
price) not obtainable elsewhere. It is free. One bulb VIVID and
AUTUMN QUEEN for 20 cts. or 50 bulbs CARNIVAL of COLORS
(mixed colors) for $1 if ordered when applying for catalogue, only; not
at these prices after receivingit. Bulbs all our own growing from THE
FARM, 30 miles east of Brooklyn on Long Island. Long Island soil is
peculiarly adapted to growing these bulbs. For free catalogue address
B. F.STALNAKER BoxA 1525 East 15th St., Brooklyn, N. Y.
blooming rose plants in America.
S) New Castle.
Our rose book for 1919,
“ROSES OF NEW CASTLE”’
your copy of this book today—a postal will do.
HELLER BROS CO., Box 221,
Have you a place in your garden for
Six each Pink Gladioli America, Panama, Halley,
PinksPerfection prepaiditor.. |). 4 Lon.
Six each White Gladioli, Glory of Holland, Peace,
Europa, Lily Lehmann, prepaid for . . . . .
Six each Red Gladioli, Empress of India, Princeps,
Frederika Wigman, War, prepaidfor. ... .
Six each Yellow Gladioli, Schwaben, Loveliness, Nia-
gara, Golden King, prepaidfor. . ......
Six each Bicolored Gladioli, Attraction, Mrs. F
Pendleton, Rouge Torch, Glory, prepaid for .
One each hardy Phloxes, Frau A. Buchner, Pan-
theon, Sieboldii, Jules Cambon, Europa, Rosen-
berg, M. P. Langier, prepaid for Pic mats Gael OO,
We grow acres of finest florist’s strains of Aster, Petunia,
Scabiosa, Salvia, Perennial seeds and plants, Gladioli,
Roses, and other good things for the flower garden.
Hundreds of professional florists have used our products
for years. If we can please your florist we can please you.
Write for price list to
RALPH E. HUNTINGTON
Painesville, Ohio
are the hardiest, easiest growing, freest-
Always
grown on their own roots in the fertile soil of
We are expert Rose growers
and give you the benefit of a lifetime expe-
rience. Our list the most select in America—
embraces every desirable Rose now in culti-
vation. An immense stock at right prices.
tells you how to make rose growing asuccess. It is
the most complete book on rose culture ever pub-
lished. Elaborately printed in actual colors. Gives
information and advice that you need. Send for
New Castle Ind.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
YOU CAN HAVE
43
A GARDEN OF DELIGHT
breathing the world’s sweetest perf'umes—blazing with brilliant blos-
soms throughout the long summer months—and rearing green foliage
above the snows of winter.
Wagner’s New Free Flower Catalogue
tells how and when and what to plant for the garden beauty you wish to gain. It is
a dependable guide to the correct planting of Wagner’s free blooming roses. bulbs, flowers,
hardy perennials and shrubs, vines, evergreens, hedges, and ornamental trees of all kinds.
For garden success, plan now and plant early
Send to-day for Wagner's Free Catalogue No. 116
WAGNER PARK NURSERIES
Nurserymen Florists
Box 26
TELLS THE TRUTH “8
Olds’ White Beauty is a new potato, now offered for the firsttime. __It is
very productive, outyielding well-known standard sorts, smooth and handsome
and of very superior quality.
WRITE FORICATALOG
describing and illustrating this and other varieties Potatoes, Corn, Oats,
Wheat, Barley, Speltz. Soy Beans, Millet, Clover, Alfalfa, Tim-
othy, Garden Seeds, Flower Seeds, Bulbs, Plants, Tools, ete.
SK FOR FREE SAMPLES
High-Grade Field Seeds, showing purity and
germination tests. Mention those interested in.
L. L. OLDS SEED CO. Drawer P 26 Madison, Wis.
Albert Net, $1.40)
Payson F t Doubleday
Terhune’s or une Page & Co.
. are the best hardy Grapes in existence.
Blackberries, Currants and Gooseberries par excellence.
Init are also described and offered a full line of Fruit Trees, Ornamental
about them.
Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Roses, Nut Trees, Hedge Plants and Garden Roots.
Box 125
J. T. LOVETT, Inc.
Landscape Gardeners
Lovett’s Red, White and'‘Blue Grapes
WAGNER
LANDSCAPE SERVICE
| will help you to attain the most |
effective planting of your garden
or estate. Wagner Landscape Gar- |
deners are experts in planning
harmonious surroundings for pri-
vate homes and public institu-
tions. For further information
without obligation, address our
Landscape Department.
. Pomerat
tae
Sidney, Ohio
AMERICAN-GROWN
Rae S
Shrubs and
Plants
OUR ability to supply trees,
shrubs and plants of the high-
est quality is not curtailed by
the stoppage of foreign shipments.
Buy nursery stock grown at
Andorra.
Andorra
Nurseries
Wm. Warner Harper, Prop.
Box 100
Chestnut Hill
Phila., Penna.
Our Catalog,
“Suggestions for
Effective Planting”
on request.
Strawberries, Raspberries,
Our Catalogue No. 1 tells all
Send for it to-day—it is FREE.
Little Silver, N. J.
Advertisers rill appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in wriling—and we will, too
HENRY F MICHELL CO. |
» 518 MARKETST PHILA. ¢
FEBRUARY, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
ichells $1 Vegetable Garden
Grow your own vegetables, pick
them fresh when needed—it pays
best if you use Michell’s fresh tested
seeds. Toinduce you to make the
trial, we will send for a dollar, a
liberal sized package of each of these
12 Most Profitable Varieties
Swiss Chard, Giant Lucullus.
Peas, Michell’s Harvester.
Onion, Michell’s Winter Keeper.
Corn, Golden Bantam.
Beans, Fordhood Bush Lima.
Beans, Michell’s Improved Strain String-
less Green Pod.
Lettuce, Michell’s Allright.
Beet, Michell’s Ideal.
Radish, Cardinal
Strain. ;
10. Carrot, Michell’s Orange Beauty.
11. Tomato, Michell’s Crackerjack.
12. Beans, Boston Navy, (for winter).
Aw pp ww 4
LCOS
Globe
Improved
Postpaid anywhere in U. S. Safe delivery
guaranteed.
Michell’s Seed Book
contains 160 pages, profusely illustrated.
Tells what, when and how to plant. Lists
dependable seeds, plants, implements and
garden aids of all sorts. Write to-day for
your copy—FREE.
HENRY F. MICHELL CO., 520 Market Street, Philadelphia
Strawberries
(The Wonderful Everbearing and
All Other Fruit Plants)
We are headquarters for all kinds of Strawberry
Plants, including the Fall or Everbearing, which
fruit in August, September, October and November
as well as in June and July. Also Raspberry,
Blackberry, Gooseberry, Elderberry, Currant and
Grape Plants, Fruit Trees, Roses, Ornamental
Trees, Shrubs, Vin Seed Potatoes, Vegetable
=gges for Hatching, Crates, Baskets, etc. Large Stock, Low
35 years’ experience. Catalogue free.
Box 829, Pulaski, N. Y.
Prices.
L. J. FARMER,
Built With
Koll’s i Lo
Patent Columns
Lattice
Fences
Garden
Houses
Gates and
Arbors
The Beautifier of Permanence and
Individuality for Public and
Private Grounds
Transforming barren spaces into
spots of rarest charm and beauty.
When writing enclose 1oc and
Ask for Pergola Album ‘*H-30""
HARTMANN - SANDERS COMPANY
Elston and Webster Avenue, CHICAGO
New York Office, 6 East 39th St., New York City
A GUARANTEED |._~
[AWN fors|OO |igg
Three lbs. of Scott’s Lawn Seed for this special
price, postage paid east of the Mississippi.
Why we guarantee it to grow, guarantee it to go
25% farther than most Lawn Seed and to be any
amount freer from weed seeds, is all explained in our
booklet. It also tells How to Know Good Seed, How
to Get Rid of Weeds, How to Treat an Old Lawn and
Build a New One, etc. It alone is worth the dollar
asked for the seed but is free. Send for it and price
of seed in large quantities.
SCOTT'S LAWN SEED
Ii it doesn’t come up your money comes back.
0. M. SCOTT & SONS CO. 13 Sixth St., Marysville, O.
Destroy Tree Pests. Kill San Jose Scale, Apple Scab,
“«. Fungi, lice, bugs and other enemies of vegetation by
e ie = Spraying with
GOOD SterasiFISH OIL
OAP NOS
RR erty
A Does not harm the trees—fertilizes soil and aids healthy
4 growth. Used and endorsed by U.S. Dept. of Agriculture.
Ns FREE—2" valuable book on Tree and Plant
= - ~ Diseases. Write for it to-day.
James Good, Or
iginal Maker, 2111-15 E. Susquehanna Ave., Phila.
cnn (5 | AD i O [ ] fit
Nay gladioli are enthusiastically known
from Maine to Melbourne. I have
been growing and selling them for over 15 years
and taken premiums at State and County fairs
with my.flowers. I have some fine new sorts,
such as Prince of Wales, Goliath, Red Emperor,
Schwaben, Pendleton, etc. For One Dollar I
_| will send, postpaid, 50 blooming bulbs, nearly
=| all named sorts, and my new catalogue.
Something about Potato Seed, too.
In writing use the box address
GEORGE S. WOODRUFF
_| INDEPENDENCE IOWA
sae
% os
> EE
Round About the Home Plot
Continued
Important Honey Plants
When deciding whether or not to keep bees in
an extensive way it is well to consider how
abundant the leading honey-plants are in the
neighborhood; that 1s, an area of say, three miles’
radius from the apiary. Among the plants
which furnish either nectar and pollen, the fol-
lowing are of special importance in the eastern
part of the United States, and at about the times
mentioned.
Skunk-cabbage, Willow and Elm trees in
March and April, give plenty of early pollen
but little nectar. Maples in April give plenty
of both. Dandelion gives abundance of pollen
and some nectar about the first of May.
Fruit trees in the middle of May ‘give both
in abundance and when weather conditions are
favorable, often a surplus of honey for home use,
or even for sale. Wild raspberry and black-
berry follow about the first of June with pollen -
and under favorable conditions nectar, which
makes a specially fine table honey and usually
in good quantity. Locust blooms in May and
June and yields a heavy crop of light colored
fine flavored honey. °
Clovers bloom in June and part of July and
are about the very best of honey plants. White,
red, alsike and crimson are of the leading kinds
important to cultivated honey bees. White
and alsike are by far the most important and some
years produce the best quantities of the finest
quality honey, recognized by its light golden color
and delicate flavor. While red clover secretes
abundant nectar, the flower tubes are so long
that honey bees cannot get the nectar, except
in dry seasons when the tubes are shortened in
the second growth. They then sometimes work
on it extensively.
Sweet clover or melilot begins to bloom in
June and continues until frost. It is a common
weed in many parts of the country but not until
recently has it been grown by farmers for hay or
for cover crop purposes. Itis a wonderful honey
producer, the honey being light-colored, spicy,
with delicious flavor. On waste limy soil, it
might be sown and allowed to take care of itself.
Basswood or Linden blooms in July. Where it
is abundant, it is an important source of honey,
the quality of which rivals that of the clover.
Sumac also blooms during July and yields
light honey of fine flavor.
Buckwheat of various sowings may bloom
during August or September, earlier in some
cases. Its dark color and peculiar rather strong
flavor is relished by some people, but disliked by
others. Goldenrod which blossoms during Sep-
tember and October produces a light honey of
good flavor when well ripened.
Wild Aster starts blossoming in October or
late September and continues until frost, its
honey is light and of good flavor but granulates
quickly. Granulated honey may be made
liquid again by being gently warmed, either in a
warm room or in water about blood temperature,
granulation is a proof of purity, not of adultera-
tion.
What a Waste.—Bee specialists say that the
flowers of New York state produce not less
than 45,coo pounds of nectar annually for every
10 square miles of territory and that this is
equivalent to 10,000 pounds of honey. But to
get this honey, they say, it will take fifty times as
many bees as are now kept. This means 1,000
pounds of honey to the square mile but the
collection of only 20 pounds on an average. If
this is so what an opportunity for beekeeping!
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
‘Fesruary, 1919
Fourth
4 Price Rose Sale
This special offer enables you to provide for a lovely
display of “Monthly” Hybrid Tea Roses at almost no
cost. My regular price is 5 for $1, but I now again make
a special half-price offer of 10 Roses, each one a dif-
ferent variety, sent prepaid, and all for only $1, if you
order NOW. (60 for $5.) If you appreciate choice
Roses, don’t miss this liberal offer. Provide NOW for
a permanent and handsome display at small cost.
Other Big $1 Specials
50 lovely Gladioli, $1; 12 fine Dahlias, $1; 12 assorted Hardy Iris,
$1; 12 gorgeous Cannas, $1; 5 grand Peonies, $1.
WHITE, RED, BLACK,
PURPLE
GRAPES
Wouldn’t you enjoy rich, sweet,
luscious Grapes of your own growing
each year? For only $1 I will sup-
ply four 2-year old vines, 1 each of
Niagara — white; Brighton— red;
Concord— purple, and Worden—
black. Send $1 for this collection today
and enjoy a lifetime treat.
CLARENCE B. FARGO
Frenchtown, N. J.
Desk K -
12 St. Regis Everbearing Red Raspberries, $1. (All de-
liveries made at proper time.) :
IrRISES, PEONIES, GLADIOLI
Importers and growers of choice varieties.
Send for our free illustrated catalogue.
1980 Montreal Ave.
ST. PAUL, MINN.
RAINBOW GARDENS
You Can Grow a Bette:
Garden aay &
BARKER — ¥
Weeder, Mulcher and Cultivator
Kills the weeds and forms a moisture-retaining
mulch, in one operation. Better work than a hoe,
easier, and ten times as fast. “Best Weed Killer
Ever Used.’’ Gets close to plants. Cuts runners.
Guards protect leaves. Has easily attached shovels
for deeper cultivation.
The BARKER has brought many a garden through
dry periods. ‘Let us tell you about it. Send for our
FREE Illustrated Book
and Factory-to-User Offer
BARKER MEG. CO.
Dept. 11 David City, Neb.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
AS
Treat a Garden like a Child
Train tt up as tt should go
I
and. watching Seeds from generation
Sent on request
CARTERS TESTED
102-106 Chamber of Commerce
CHILDS’ GIANT KOCHIA, our
1918 novelty, has taken its place every-
where as the greatest floral favorite.
It rivals the best Ferns or Palms in
decorative effects and is equally valuable
for garden or pots,’a pyramid of dense
) feathery green foliage all summer, in fall,
a dark claret red till Christmas. Easiest
of all plants to grow anywhere. Pkt. 20c.
MATCHLESS LETTUCE. Novel,
distinct and absolutely the tenderest and
sweetest lettuce grown. Pkt. r5c.
TWO-POUND TOMATO. Largest, heaviest, richest, and most
solid tomato. A perfect marvel. Pkt. roc.
CHINESE WOOLFLOWERS. The showiest new garden annual
for bedding. Nothing like it. Pkt. 2oc.
JOHN LEWIS CHILDS,
NEW GIANT KOCHIA
F you seek worth and harmony in a Garden the first step is to
sow the right Seeds—selected, tested, and guaranteed Seeds
—and this means Carter’s Pedigreed Seeds.
CARTERS SEEDS are the aristocrats of the Seed world, be-
cause the House of Carter has made a business of selecting
life and the result is—Surety in Seed-buying for the Purchaser.
Carier’s 1919 Catalogue—‘‘Garden and Lawn”
Branch of James Carter & Co., London, England
GARDEN NOVELTIES
to generation of Seed
SEEDS, Inc.
Bldg.,; Boston, Mass.
HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES, §&
a booklet giving 666 receipts for cooking, [=
canning and preserving vegetables of all
kinds. Will make one’s garden crops *
doubly valuable. roc.
“SPECIAL OFFER
For 20c. we will send everything, |
Kochia, Lettuce, Tomato, Wool-
flower, vegetable book and cat-
alogue. Ordernow. Supply limited.
BIG CATALOGUE free. All flower
and vegetable seeds, bulbs, plants and
berries. We grow the finest Gladioli, Dahlias, Cannas, Irises, Peonies,
Perennials, Shrubs, Vines, Ferns, Roses, Sweet Peas, Asters, Pansies,
Beets, Beans, Cabbage, Onions, Tomatoes, Seed Corn, Potatoes,
etc. Prize strains and sterling novelties.
Inc., Floral Park, N. Y.
WILL MORE MONEY HELP ?
As-a member of our agency organization, securing subscribers
for the World’s Work, Country Life and the Garden Magazine,
you can increase your earnings — many are doing it. Send your
name to the Circulation Dept.
Doubleday, Page & Company
Garden City New York
FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GARDENING LECTURES. M.
G. Kains, Horticultural Consultant, and author of “Home Fruit
Grower,” “Principles and Practice of Pruning,” “‘Plant Propaga-
tion,” “‘Culinary Herbs,” etc., offers his lecture service to clubs and
societies. Address Port Washington, L. I. His semi-weekly 30 and
8 lectiire courses begin February 5 and March 4, respectively.
For circulars write Secretary, Columbia University, New York.
tt
us.
Qu
The
Only
Offered in the World
(GLADIOLUS are fast becoming the most popular
flower, and if you are interested in them you
cannot afford to be without our well-illustrated
52-page catalogue for 1919, which is free for the
asking.
It contains nearly 300 varieties selected from
thousands of our best seedlings.
tion and almost all of them obtainable only from
The catalogue contains the most complete cul-
tural and storage directions on this flower ever
published and is worth having for that reason if for
no other.
olus,”’ etc.
Address the originator of the Ruffled Gladiolus
A. E. KUNDERD
HUA
Ruffled Gladiolus
All of our produc-
It tells you how to grow “Giant Gladi-
May we send you a copy ?
GOSHEN, IND., U. S. A.
eR
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
46 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FrBRUARY, 1919
“You Must Spray
To Make Crops Pay”
With all the world on rations, you can’t
afford to risk the success of your garden.
Plant good seed in well-fertilized soil. Hoe, cultivate and
spray. Bugs and blights will have little chance to spoil
your crops if you study your Spraying Calendar and use
2 °
It will also protect your fruit trees and rose bushes,
disinfect the hen house, put on whitewash or cold-water
paints and wash the auto. The pulser shut-off prevents waste of
solution. The patented non-clog nozzles (fine spray and solid
stream) handle any kind of solution,
Our free Spraying Calendar isa guide to the novice, a
ue reminder to the expert. Send forit to-day. Ask also for 1919
Ns Noe (>) catalogue which describes 40 styles of Auto-Spray.
Wa OEE
fe ae The E. C. BROWN CO., 850 Maple Street, Rochester, N.Y.
Jest guide the nozzles i
wis s 1.0 0 =
-Y—-}-| | -| | -| —_—_w
Cultivate Your Garden
the “ PERFECTION’? Way
The “Perfection” Cultivator kills weeds,
aerates the soil, conserves moisture. Can
Earlier than you ever had before
Any of . be adjusted many ways and anybody
fhreeinizes oer it. Write for full details The World’s Demand
For Food
will be greater than ever this year. Hun-
dreds of Market Gardeners are more
than doubling their profits by using
my wonderful Plant Forcing devices.
Don’t be satisfied with a garden tike
\. the other fellow—beat him to it.
No matter how backward the
spring, it’s easy with
THE BALL SEED & PLANT FORCER
cheap enough to use them by the thousands. Send for my Beautitul Free BOOK.
HOW to GROW BIGGER, BETTER and EARLILNN CROPS than you ever had
before. It gives you gardening information found in no other publication, It
tells you how you can have a garden with flowers in full bloom and vegetables
for your table a month earlier than you ever had before. Just drop mea post-
Hill’s Evergreens Grow [iiemmrciaccrrccr etme
Satisfaction suaranteed or
money refunded
LEONARD SEED CO.
226-230 West Kinzie St.
Chicago, Illinois
$3.50 each
No. 1. with two discs
with 6 inch or 7 inch
knives, will work rows 9
to 11 inches wide.
No. 2, with four discs for use with
7%. 8% and 8% inch knives, will
work 11 to 14 inch wide rows.
No. 3. with four discs, and tro or 11 inch
knives, works rows 13 to 16 inches wide.
Descriptive circular and catalogue
of seeds for present planting FREE
e. Department ‘‘E’’ Glenside, Pa.
Beautify your home. Plant Hill’s Evergreens.
balls ss 2 We are evergreen specialists, not only in grow-
st ing but in planning artistic effects. Priceslow-
__ est—quality considered. Don't risk failure—
§ Get Hill’s Free Evergreen Book. Write to-day
Expert advice /ree/
4 GRAND GLADIOLI, 35c
Peace—Best white dozen, $ .60
War—Brilliant red § 1.50
Pendleton—Beautiful pink <“ .80
Schwaben—Best yellow a 1.00
One bulb of each, 35c 3 of each, $1.00
Post Prepaid, Catalogue Free
Brookland Gardens, Woburn, Mass.
D. Will Nursery Co., Evergreen Specialigs
Box 1064 Dundee, IIl-
Plenty of Nitrate
in Chile
The amount of Nitrate in the
Chilean Deposits is
720,000,000 Tons .
The Sunlight Sash, whether set on hot-beds, cold-frames
At present rate of world’s con- or our small, inexpensive greenhouses, if faithfully used,
sumption, deposits will last for never fail to give highly satisfactory results. And they last
a lifetime.
The earlier they are put to work the earlier and better the
0 ears plants. Order now and have them ready. If you wish to
eliminate the drudgery ee mo : 5
se. Bic é mats and shutters our double | 3 Rtas 5
Shipping conditions are improving. glass sash are indispensable. :
American farmers should learn the
5 Z Ask for our catalogue. It
FACTS. Write for information. gives all particulars of various
sizes of Sash (double crsingle)
Frames, Suntrapz and Green-
W. LAMBERT MYERS houses and tells how to handle
5 p ; rent
Chilean Nitrate Committee ga
P. O. Box 248 Berkeley, Cal.
Sunlight Double Glass Sash Co.
937 East Broadway Louisville, Ky.
‘
- Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Grown from Bearing Trees and
Propag&ted from Whole Roots
Write to-day for new catalogue enabling
you to plant the orchard, home acre or
city lot with an expert’s advice as to best
varieties and how to insure successful
planting. Forty-two years of knowing how condensed for
your guidance. You
SAVE BIG MONEY
by buying direct from Green. Keep in your own pocket
agent’s profits averaging one-half the cost and get the best
trees that can be produced, hardy, healthy, sturdy stock, true
to name.
Largest and Oldest Nursery
Selling Pedigree Trees Direct to Planters
Everything for the orchard and home grounds, priced for
small or large quantities. Valuable planting information in-
cluded. Catalogue free. Address
GREEN’S NURSERY CO., 7 Wall Street,
Rochester, N. Y.
ciEkibbbnibosincisiGGcs
S w- .
Wild French Poppies
BvYY now, your seeds of the wondrous wild poppies
of France, that our soldiers tell us grow in a riot
of color, along the edges of and through the grain fields.
The seeds are difficult to secure and in great demand.
Only 5 packages sold to any one person. Price 25ca
package, 5 packages $1, postage paid.
Send for our Garden Loyer’s Book of valuable information. Free
S
S)
S 9
$ Schlings Seeds
6
- MAX SCHLING, Inc. Ss)
24 West 59th Street New York @) |
Seu eeuEeeeeEEEe
A _Beaut
ify Your Garden
With
GATHOWAY POITERY
_ Catalog on Request
_GAvowAY TerrA- Gita (COMPANY
= 3214 WAmNur Sr. PHrLADELPHIA
The Glen Road Iris Gardens
Grace Sturtevant, Prop.
Wellesley Farms, Massachusetts
GROWERS AND ORIGINATORS OF FINE VARI-
ETIES OF BEARDED IRIS
PLANTS SEEDS ROOTS
Complete assortment of hardy Norther grown
Berry Plants, Garden Seeds and Roots. Strict-
ly first class. True toname. Prices reason-
able. Catalogue sent FREE.
A. R. WESTON & CO. Bridgman, Mich.
‘3, Masters Plant Setter
Pays for Itself Every /
Day Used
Transplants Tobacco, Tomatoes,
Sweet Potatoes, Cabbage, Straw-
berries, Eggplant and all similar
plants.
No Stooping—No Lame Back
Each plant set, watered and covered—one oper-
ation. A full stand; no resetting, an earlier crop.
Most practical planter ever invented. Is guaran-
leed to set three times as fast and easier and better
than ‘hand work. Money back if not satisfied.
Write for Free Booklet.
MASTERS PLANTER CO,
Dept. X Chicago, Ill.
FEBRUARY, 1919 THE GARDEN
MAGAZINE
ITH the increas-
ing interest man-
ifested in the broader
aspects of gardening,
caused by present con-
ditions, a “review pub-
lication”’ for enthusiasts
is more than ever appre-
ciated. Such a review
is found in the
| GARDENERS’
CHRONICLE
a publication which will be of inestimable help and benefit
to you in your garden work.
Its pages are devoted exclusively to gardening. Its notes on the growing
of flowers, fruits, and vegetables are both precise and practical. They do
not leave the reader in doubt on methods of procedure.
The special articles each month are from the pens of the foremost gardeners
and horticulturists in America. Its digests are from the leading horti-
cultural periodicals of both America and the European countries.
- The Gardeners’ Chronicle provides a fund of helpful knowledge for all
interested in gardening, and is creating among its readers a real gardening
spirit, by interpreting the true and lasting joys and benefits of gardening.
It aims to perpetuate the nation-wide interest that has been aroused in
American home gardens.
Issued Monthly GARDENERS’ CHRONICLE
' Subscription $1.50a year 296 FIFTH AVE., NEW YORK
HODGSON fetes
Spring will be along again soon, with all its old charm and what
will seem to be new allurements. Are you going to let another
summer go by without putting up that cottage for the family or
that playhouse for the children? Or, possibly you need a gar-
age, poultry house, tool house or dog kennel. The Hodgson
Catalogue will give you good ideas and bea practical help in
deciding what to do and how to do it.
It is beautifully illustrated with almost
every kind of a house you can imagine
and the unique Hodgson System is
fully explained. Hodgson Houses are
built in sections, painted and all, ready
to be set up quickly and easily by even
inexperienced help.
The best time to order is soon. Then
you will be sure of getting your house
when you want it. Send for the cata-
logue now.
E. F. HODGSON CO.
Room 228, 71-73 Federal St., Boston
6 East 39th St., New York City
The ‘‘Handy Suc-
cess’’ Sprayer
above is a simple,
convenient aind
easy working
Pump at a price
that adapts it to
the home garden.
Details onrequest.
THE DEMING
CEXID
Y
Get Better Results by Pruning
ll Ya %
PRUNING SHEARS
4, Insures a
NSURE your -blossoms, berries, fruit
and foliage against bugs, worms, scale
and blotch.
Deming Spray Pumps in all types and
sizes for the home garden or large orchard
give you the benefit of 40 years of study
on pump and spraying problems.
Our new 32-page catalogue with complete descrip-
tions of over 25 spray-pumps, will show you the
sprayer that meets with your particular require-
ments, whether they call for a small bucket-
sprayer, a barrel type or a power-sprayer. It is
free on request.
COMPANY, 301 Depot St., Salem, Ohio +
“The Little Pruning Book’? will help. Correct pruning
adds vigorous and healthy growth to your trees and plants.
Better fruit or better flowers is the.result.
_The how, when and where of correct pruning as well as the
kind of shears to use, will be found in this practical book.
Pexto Pruning Shears have the all-important easy grip and
a clean-cutting edge. There’s a Pexto Dealer in your locality.
Send for free circular, or better still send 50 cents for the
book. Money refunded if not satisfactory.
The Peck, Stow & Wilcox Company, Cleveland, Ohio
¥ . . . . . . . ot .
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
*. Spring Spraying
48 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY, 1919
SNNNSNNNNNNNANSAAASASNAANNNNNNNNANAN ANAS ANNAN ANSON NON
N
VIBERT AIREDALE TERRIERS
The “ONE MAN” Dog
Classiest, bravest dog bred. THE popular dog of the times for home, farm, country, auto, children. Splendid companion,
romping playmate, matchless watch and stock dog. Endorsed as unsurpassed all round hunter by Roosevelt and Rainey.
Keenly intelligent, steadfastly faithful, deeply affectionate and true as steel. Clean minded, self respecting, dependable
with children. ;
VIBERT AIREDALES ARE SPECIALLY SELECTED for brains and brawn, raised under 1000 fruit trees, healthy, hardy,
absolutely free jrom distemper, of which we never had a case. CLASSY, COBBY, UPSTANDING STOCK, thoroughbred,
pedigreed, registered, certified.
The Kind of a Dog They Turn in the Street to Look At
WE OFFER: (1) Healthy, hardy, active, thoroughbred, rolypoly, comical, loving puppies, male, female or unrelated pairs. (2) Grown or partly grown male or female or unrelated pair for
breeding. (3) A splendid bitch already served by our magnificent stud. We guarantee prompt shipment, safe delivery anywhere on earth, sincere dealings and satisfaction. i
AT STUD, Brainy, Brawny, Noble, Upstanding INTERNATIONAL CHAMPION Kootenai Chinook (the only American bred international champion Airedale stud in the world). Fee ©
$25. Simply express your bitch to Weston, N. J., she will be bred and returned. Descriptive illustrated booklet and price list on request. Also stud card. ;
VIBERT AIREDALE FARM, Box 5B, Weston, New Jersey Phone Bound Brook 397
\
SS aaa SSNS A AAAS
4
VILLE audi
Liddle
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SONA y : i
“BUFFALO” PORTABLE FENCING SYSTEM P aris—F acing Are de Triomphe
Enables you to make any size yard or runway desired. Can be moved to other locations at_will. Prices as follows: : S :
Se eae ae Ee ements) tO | neat cttalons
Sharp as a knife on both sides, it gives no quarter to
weeds. As the blade oscillates with every back and for-
ward stroke, it up-roots and cuts weeds, besides pulverizing PLANTING GUIDE FoR THE PRACTICAL GARDENER -
the soil. It can be worked very closely to plants, shrubs, : aa a Seymour 7° |
flowers, etc., because the side arms act asa fender. This HEbiesocoll atifenmell ois ins Acmiaibel! Cane = = f
ai] (poe ee Verified Guides for Vegetable Growers - - ~ 72 (i
SDE Cdn e ACU Rea’ Herbaceous Perennials and How to Plant Them 73 ol |
G > j J Orderly Planning for Ornamental Purposes - - 74 ty |
T h e G u l S oO if e e d e r t h e Practical Facts About Planting Fruits - - - - 75 Be
e
safe Cultivator for A li! : AMERICA A NATION OF GARDENERS - - - - - 76 i
Photograph by the National War Garden Commission
THE Boom IN ORGANIZED GARDENING
Frances Duncan 77
It makes children from eight years up just as competent cultivators
as grown-ups. You can let the boys and girls work it with the full as-
surance that they’ll do good work quicker than you can do it with an
aN
Photographs by E. K. Thomas
ordinary hoe. To provide a Gilson for everybody and every need, we Tue Monta’s REMINDER- - - - - - 78, 80, 82
make four sizes, as follows: f 7 ei |
33 in. blade, for narrow rows 6 in. blade, for light soils Coon NN Gets ohare ot apii’s > Se
5 in. blade, for general work 8 in. blade, for wide rows pee MO :
Ask your dealer to show you, or if he cannot, we will supply direct. Tue AFTER CARE OF PERENNIALS - - - - - - 84
All of the above come with six foot polished ash handles. As Ornrrs SEm tee ee ce eG
Let the Liberty Cultivator Shorten “Grass” Mapr Easy Money - WW. H. Drescher 90
Garden Labor. Worth WHILE Sweet Peas - - - -R. EL. Allen 94
The tool shown below stands for Liberty from garden drudgery. . Seven FarmocEerM—A Testimony - - - L. M. Robbins 94
scientifically constructed teeth destroy weeds, and pulverize the soil. Rounp Asout THE Homm Pror - - - - - - 98
Special thumb-screws make adjusting from four to
ten inches easy. Furnished with five foot polished
ash handle or with special wheel attachment. Write
us for full information to-day and
Lronarp Barron, Editor
Let Gilson Garden Tools help to
Better Results
Good tools are the greatest factor in making
garden work a joy. We make a tool for
every purpose—from five-prong hand
weeders to the up-to-the-minute Lib-
erty Wheel Cultivator Weeder re-
ferred to above. Let our free
booklet tell you why you should
“Gilson-ize” your garden.
J. E. GILSON
COMPANY
Port Washington, Wisc.
VOLUME XXIX, No. 2.
Published Monthly, 25c. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year. |
For Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
: COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Cuicaco: Peoples Gas Bldg. Boston: Tremont Bldg.
Los ANGELES: Van Nuys Bldg. New York: 120 W. 32nd St.
F, N. DOUBLEDAY, President S$. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
HERBERT S. HOUSTON, RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
Vice-President Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879
mess NN
J @ RGSS ID...
- | IN LLL
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Marcu,
UO AULY)
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
uses
SS & Co,
Garden Full
LS aert
The Gladiolus is one of the most
satisfactory flowers grown and there
is no reason why every family can-
not enjoy this grand flower—it is as
easy to grow as the potato.
Bloom from July to frost if you
plant a few bulbs each month from
April to July.
For only ONE DOLLAR we will
send 50 Bulbs of our Grand Prize
Mixture, which covers every con-
ceivable shade in the Gladiolus
kingdom.
Each year we sell thousands of these bulbs and
receive numerous testimonials as to their merits.
ORDER YOUR BULBS NOW so as to have
them to plant when you begin making your garden.
Simple cultural directions in package.
Mail this advertisement with Check, Money
Order, Dollar Bill or Stamps, or present at our
store and secure this splendid collection, sent pre-
paid to any point in the U.S. east of the Missis-
sippi. For points West and Canada add 25:—($1.25).
Are You a Lover of Flowers?
Five Famous Dahlias Postpaid for $2
F YOU are a lover of flowers you will be delighted with these
five wonderful Dahlias. Immense size, perfect habits, ex-
quisite coloring, no better varie-
ties are grown than these. They
are guaranteed bulbs, properly
labelled. Try them.
American Beauty . . . Wine crimson
Hortulanus Fiet . . . Salmon-pink
D.M. Moore . . Deep maroon
Jeanne Charmet . White and lilac-pink
Mina Burgle . . . Brilliant scarlet
Or, if you will allow me to make
my own selection, | will send {you
ten distinct named varieties, all
labelled and guaranteed,
for $1 THE DAHLIA KING
The Largest Dahlia Grower in the World
The output of my Dahlia farm now 4 million Dahlia clumps.
Visit My Gardens During August and September. You'll see a sight never to be for-
gotten. It’ll cause you to look upon Dahlias with different eyes ever after. My time
is yours on visitors’ day, and we can't see all the flowers on one visit, either. So
Let Catalogue Visit You NOW.
Dahlias before planting time knocks at the door.
out some of my favorites in your 1919 garden. The joy they’il bring will repay
manyfold their small cost and little labor of growing.
It will afford you a chance to get posted on
You can’t afford to do with-
Our 1919 Spring Catalogue sent on request
Siam é Valier 30-32 Barclay St.
New York City
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
J. K. ALEXANDER —‘“‘ The Dahlia King ”’
27-29 Central Street East Bridgewater, Mass.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
a)_2Market Basket
BS ae oa
eat! Vegetable Seed
Collection
Don’t depend on the
street huckster for your
| summer vegetables. Have
them fresh and crisp from your own garden for every-day
use, with some to save for winter. And America must save
more food this year than ever before—we’ve promised Bel-
gium, and France, and England, and the other allied coun-
tries that they shall not suffer. So, our gardens must
produce a large part of what the home folks need.
Forbes’ Dollar Market Basket Collection
includes sorts the whole family will like, that grow readily, and yield
freely. Send to-day for this collection.
One Packet Each of these Eighteen Varieties:
Beans, King of Earlies; Onion, Yellow Globe Danvers;
Wardwell’s Wax; Red Wethersfield.
Fordhook Bush Lima. Parsley, Moss Curled.
Beet, Detroit Dark Red; Radish, Scarlet Globe;
Early Wonder. Scarlet Turnip White-Tip.
Carrot, Coreless. Spinach, Savoy-Leaved.
Cucumber, Forbes’ Prolific Swiss Chard.
White Spine. Tomato, Matchless.
Lettuce, Champion of All; Turnip, Purple-Top White
Grand Rapids. Globe.
Sent Postpaid for One Dollar
Forbes’ 1919 Catalogue—‘‘Every Garden Requisite” —is full of helps
for the vegetable and flower grower—seeds, tools, insecticides. Write
to-day for your FREE copy.
ALEXANDER FORBES & CO., Seedsmen
114 Mulberry Street
Newark, New Jersey
op KELLOGG
STRAWBERRIES:
Paid for this Home. :
KELLOGG STRAWBERRIES Are Real ‘HOME-BUILDERS
Many beautiful and cozy homes have been built and paid
. for entirely from the profits of Kellogg Strawberries,
E. D. Andrews of Michigan, is the proud owner of a
) beautiful $4,000.00 home which was built from the profits
of just two acres of Kellogg Strawberries. Profits from
less than one acre of Kellogg Strawberries made Z. Chandler of Oregon, the proud owner of his cozy home.
Others have done as well. Many who began with small Kellogg Gardens found _——S 5
the work so pleasant and profitable that they now have become large strawberry growers and
Make $500 to $1200 Per Acre
Our Free Book Tells How KELLOGG STRAWBERRY GARDENS yield big |
crops and give big profits everywhere. Many families are fully supplied with straw-
berries the year ’round without cost and in addition, make
$50 to $150 Cash Profit Each Year from small Kellogg Strawberry
Gardens. Let a Kellogg Garden add beauty, Pe and profit to your
home. Our BIG FREE BOOK, ‘*KELLOGG’S GREAT CROPS OF STRAWBERRIES
AND HOW TO GROW THEM,” explains every detail.
SEND for this valuable book today ——_ ==»
It’s FREE and POSTPAID. A post-card will do. Please write very plainly.
R. M. KELLOGG CO., Box 690, THREE RIVERS, MICHIGAN
Marca, 1919
Plan Your Hardy
Garden NOW
Before the Spring Rush Starts
We shall be glad to give your problem
our personal attention through our staff
of experts, whether you plan a little plot
in your backyard or contemplate laying out
an extensive estate.
“Palisades Popular Perennials”
Over a Thousand Different Kinds to
Select From
. Whatever is worth growing in hardy plants, grows
in our nurseries. We believe ours to be as complete
and as large a stock of hardy plapts as can be found
in this country. Whether you want a few specimen
plants of a rare species, or thousands of one and the
same kind for planting in masses, we can serve you.
During the growing seasons, our nurseries are always
open to visitors who are welcome to make personal
selections. Write and enclose 10c for our catalogue
TO-DAY.
PALISADES NURSERIES, Inc.
Sparkill, New York
nll INNIS
SES
ft NewCastle
are the hardiest, easiest growing, freest-
blooming rose plants in America. Always
grown on their own roots in the fertile soil of
New Castle. We are expert Rose growers:
and give you the benefit of a lifetime expe-
rience. Our list the most select in America—
embraces every desirable Rose now in culti-
vation. An immense stock at right prices.
Our rose book for 1919,
“ROSES OF NEW CASTLE’?
tells you how to make rose growing a success. It is
the most complete book on rose culture ever pub-
lished. Elaborately printed in actual colors. Gives
information and advice that you need. Send for’
your copy of this book today—a postal will do.
HELLER BROS CO., Box 321, New Castle Ind-
If You Have Not Yet Bought
a Few Bulbs of Gladiolus
PRINCE of WALES °
for Your Garden You are \
Missing Something . |
Here is a variety that has extreme merit either for garden
use, for exhibition or as a florists’ forcing flower. Extremely
early, with wonderful large wide open flowers of gorgeous
glistening salmon melting into a throat of the sweetest
yellow. A full size spike of PRINCE OF WALES with its
eight to ten flowers open at once surely typifies the joyous
spirit of sunshine in a summer garden.
Stock of this has been very scarce and high priced and is
still scarce, but I believe that I have the largest TRUE stock
of this variety in America and although my large bulbs are
practically sold I am determined that every true garden
lover shall know this beautiful flower and to that end I am
offering for this month ONLY small flowering size bulbs at a
price so low that no one can neglect to try them.
These bulbs planted any time not later than June first, are
sure to bloom and while the flowers will not be as large, or
as many, or the spike as tall as secured from big bulbs still
the wonderful color will greet you and in the Fall fine large
bulbs will be your reward for next year’s planting. Order
early and do not miss this opportunity.
Three bulbs for 25¢.—Seven bulbs for 50c.—Fifteen bulbs
for $1.00—One hundred bulbs for $5.00. ALL POSTPAID
ANYWHERE. Cultural Directions FREE with all orders.
RAYMOND M. CHAMPE
Walled Lake Oakland County Michigan
My Specialties: New and Rare Bulbs and Hardy Plants of Merit
Write me your wants in
Gladioli, Dahlias, Darwin Tulips—Peonies, Iris, Phlox
WLLL LLL LLL,
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
RSS 2
N
Marcu, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
53
The Three Boston Beauties
- Boston Beauty,
Betty Alden,
Beacon Belle,
Price of the foregoing Roses, $2.00 each; $20.00 per dozen.
R. J. FARQUHAR & CO. 9 So. Market St., Boston, Mass.
NEW ROSES
Originated at our Nurseries,
May be grown as Bush or Pillar Roses.
No. 3 Double pink, fragrant.
No 2 Single Apple Blossom pink.
No. 1 Double flesh pink.
The set of three varieties, one plant each, $5.00.
Catalogue on application
—
Specialties
‘(Sixth edition, issue of 1918)
HE most complete and helpful
book of hardy garden Perenni-
als, Shrubs and Trees that I have
ever issued.
Specialties for Early
° ° .
Spring Planting
New French Lilacs, Philadelphus and Deutzias
—a complete collection of Lemoine’s new
creations.
Hardy Plant Specials
New Japanese and Asiatic Shrubs—new cotoneasters,
enkianthus, berberis, flowering cherries, corylopsis,
etc., for the border and rock garden.
Dwarf Evergreens—rare specimens for formal gardens,
lawn groups and rock garden plantings.
Peonies—the most complete collection of herbaceous and
tree peonies in the world.
Trises—many novelties of my own yanine: (Awarded the
Panama-Pacific Gold medal.
Phloxes, Asters, Delphiniums, Chrysanthemums, etc., etc.
This book, containing 112 pages of text, 30 full page illustrations (13
colored plates) is already in the hands of most well informed garden-
ers, but if you have not received the sixth edition, issue of 1918, or
it has been mislaid, a copy will be sent to you promptly on request.
BERTRAND H. FARR—Wyomissing Nurseries Co.
104 Garfield Avenue, Wyomissing, Penna.
i
Wi ‘ | i
Our collection of Iris is one of
the largest in America. It con-
tains over five hundred varieties,
many of them new, rare things
obtainable from no other source in
this country. The Iris gains in
popularity as people realize its
charm. For decorative effect in the
garden, it is unsurpassed, while
the individual flowers are of beau-
tiful form, exquisite texture and of
the widest range of color. There
are dainty flowers of purest white,
flowers tinted like the opal or the
the rainbow, gorgeous flowers of
velvety purple and crimson, flowers
of pearl and gold and bronze.
Notwithstanding its ethereal
loveliness, the Iris is perfectly
hardy and requires little care.
For $1.50, we will send you
by express this collection
of Bearded Iris. If wanted
by mail add postage for two
Ibs. Actual value $2.10
MME. CHEREAU, White bordered blue
OTHELLO, Rich blue, velvety purple
MME. PACQUITTE, Bright rosy tlaret WALHALLA, Lavender and wine red
NUEE D’ORAGE, Smoky lilac and violet Send for this collection to-day
WRITE FOR OUR NEW CATALOGUE
It describes all our Iris, Gladioli, Paeonieg, Cannas, Hardy Phlox, Dahlias and many other
plants and bulbs. It also lists all kinds of flower, field and garden seeds and some mew and
rare specialties which we believe cannot be obtained through any other American Seedsman.
THE WING SEED CO.., Box 1426, Mechanicsburg, Ohio
(The House of Quality and Moderate Prices)
MRS. NEUBRONNER, Deep golden yellow
CELESTE, Pale blue
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
54 THE’ GARDEN a Marcu, 1919
Pa tds, and Plants _, i
Y
Fc Help Nature
. y Experienced gardeners know that most of
f the delay in getting early crops in Spring
igs pps wes is due to the cold piercing winds. Keep
7 po fear? the wind off your plants which is easily
: done by means of handy and i inexpensive
: Srp FORCERS.
_.*» Water Your Garden ;
This Way
ie halves the labor and more than doubles the
yield. Waters a small plot, or acres, equally
well.
Can be attached to garden hose, or direct to sup-
PlyapiBes: Requires no extensive digging up to PA No. Tape
ye Special Portable 50 foot Line that gill water 2500 They take any size of glass, are easily put
r. square feet, for so little as $21.50 complete..
Send for full particulars of all our equipments, including together. Wires, $1 50 per doz.; 5 $1 ] 50
Portable Lawn and Formal Garden Sprinkler. per 1 00. Glass extra.
The Ski Irrigation C 3
$ he inner rriga ion od. TAKE ADVANTAGE OF OUR OFFER
- For every order received this year amounting to $10.00 or
218 Water Street Troy, Ohio more we will send you a ‘‘The Amateur Gardener's Handbook”
and 5 packets of Vegetable or Flower Seeds. ~
- pas Write for catalogue of particulars of offer at once.
itis KINNER
a i Sate 3
— YSTEM
ee
OF IRRIGATION
2x2 4x2 3x3 4x3
MakeEvery Seed Count!
NOW FOR THE VICTORY GARDEN!
Peace brings additional responsibilities for increasing
the food supply. Make your plans, order now and
start your-flower and vegetable plants:
LET PAPER POTS HELP YOU
Start your indoor garden with them this month:
Use them to,sow Peppers, Tomatoes, Egg Plants, etc:
Make every seed produce a plant: per 100 per 1000
DAHLIAS are the wondrous results of years of hybridizing exper-
4 iments in crossing and recrossing the choicest English, French and
\ \ Holland varieties. They are marvelously beautiful in both coloring
and form, have strong stems and are excellent as cut flowers.
Catalogue Free. M. G. lt: YL EK R ; REG pate
fae aT Pray awadece CIAPSSTS =
Kecbecbeuaucceeuunacier
“fies BEE BER BOR 2x2 size—for all small Plants...... § .75 $5.00
ese ve METER ai oi tee
seeet assastaascansah isp wrecrer ae 423 size for Com, Beans, eto... ata aia
No increase in prices while present stocks last
37 WARREN STREET
THE CLOCHE COMPANY “yew york erry
Phone, Barclay 2749
We are Eastern agents for the Skinner Irrigation, System
of Irrigation. Write us on your water problems.
i
The Sweetest Sweet Corn
Like Golden Bantam, but larger, sweeter and better. Ears 8 inches
long and the color of June butter. Hence the name “ Buttercup.”
This corn is deliciously sweet and tender. There is no other corn
quite equal to it.
Cabbage That Is a Real Luxury
The Stanley cabbage is a really delicious vegetable. As superior to com-
mon cabbage as sweet corn is to field corn. It is as tender and delicate
as Brussels Sprouts and cauliflower and far more easily raised.
Harris Seeds You can get fine results from all Harris Pedigree Seed because every lot
eee oversO is tested and the percentage that will grow is marked on the label. So
Telishow man , C
SIM Accordingtoourtests) © YOU know just how thick to plant. ™
983 percent Send for our free catalogue and learn about our new strains of Peas, Beans, Beets, Corn,
of this seed germinates Cauliflower, Tomatoes, Melons, etc. See why our method of selecting the Seed from the
best individual plant cables you to produce better sized and more delicious vegetables
in greater quantities.
Write for the free Catalogue to-day — it shows how to have a truly successful garden and
enables you to buy direct from the actual grower at wholesale prices.
JOSEPH HARRIS COMPANY, Box 51, Coldwater, N. Y.
AAA ccc A
Evergreen
Bittersweet
Euonymus radicans vegetus
A lovely climber, adaptable to all loca-
tions; unsurpassed. for covering trellises,
walls or stumps. Rich green all the year,
with crimson berries in winter. eae
be planted at any time.
1st size, 50c each; $5 per dozen
2nd size, 75c each; $8 per dozen
3rd size,'$1.50 each; $15 per Lae Ent
Adolf Muller nckséries
Norristown,Penna_
cr
Ata
|
1
i
"De
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Pisfaic x, 19°10 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 55
\ \
\ \
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| Have Y Own Vegetable Garden |
\ Yr N
| Have Your n Vegetable Garden |
N N
N \N
\ Rone \
\ Select such varieties as are best adapted to your own wants. If you need assistance mail a postal card to \
N N
FOTTLER, FISKE, RAWSON COMPANY, The Faneuil Hall Square Seed Store, Boston, Mass. \
Our Seed Annual will be mailed Free at once. It is complete and yet concise and to the point. Full of lifelike illustrations
\ \
\ N
\ N
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\ We Especially Feature \
\ VEGETABLE SEEDS— | \
\ FARM SEEDS. \
\ Implements most useful in \
\ home gardening. , \
N The best fertilizer to use. \
:
N The insecticides proper to N
N N
\ use for the destruction \
\ . of the various insects. \
\ Our practical experience of \
N \
N over forty years in the grow- \
\ ing and earing for seeds puts \
N us in a position to give our WY
N customers the benefit of N
| our long experience. ,
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N . This Seed Annual that we mail free contains not only 60 pages devoted to Vegetable Seed but you will find over 30 pages devoted to Flower Seeds; \
N ; : s N
\ 30 pages to Dahlia and Gladiolus with over 50 illustrations of the best varieties; and 30 pages to Roses, Perennial Plants, Shrubs, etc., as well as several pages \
\ on Poultry Supplies. This book is sent free to all who write for it—a postal will do. \
\ : \
y FOTTLER, FISKE, RAWSON COMPANY, Faneuil Hall Square, Boston, Mass.
| i
Summer-time Glory Bound Up In
These Gladiolus Bulbs
Few other plants give the color effects that are shown in
Gladiolus flowers—dainty pink, rich orange, brilliant scar-
let, royal purple and lavender, are hints of what you
may expect from these splendid collections of bulbs.
Special Offer No. 5
is a seedling from the old reliable Cuthbert, discovered on the Westinghouse Estate
(Erskine Park) at Lee, Mass., by Mr. Edward Norman. This magnificent estate
is in the midst of the beautiful Berkshire Hills, with a temperature in winter of 30
or 40 degrees below zero, so that the hardiness of this berry is unquestioned.
a 75 Bulbs for $1, postpaid
y” Some of the most beautiful varieties in my
fields are in this collection.
Glory Offer No. 6
102 Bulbs of the finest varieties
sent for $1 postpaid
12 Canary Bird, yellow 12 Mary Fennell,
12 Czar Peter, wine red lavender -
12 Golden West, golden 12 Pink Perfection
ba! yellow 12 Schwaben, canary
“| 12 Loveliness, creamy 12 Victory, sulphur
white 6 Wilbrinck, flesh pink
No collection ever offered contains so many superior
varieties. Add them to your garden this year.
All Bulbs true to color, securely packed, and sent postpaid.
I have a plan whereby you can get twenty-five bulbs for
almost nothing. Ask me.
My ‘‘Glad”’ Catalogue tries to convey to you some
of the surprises in store for those who plant my Gladioli.
Cultural directions furnished will help you to be successful with
the bulbs. Send for the catalogue; or better still, order the
collection for immediate or future delivery.
JELLE ROOS
Box P
Milton, Mass.
Mr. Baker of Hoosick Falls, N. Y.,
writes us as follows, regarding this re-
markable berry:
“In the season of 1916, Mr. George M. Dar-
row of the United States Department of Agri-
culture was visiting fruit growers to obtain in-
formation on berries for bulletins published by
the Department of Agriculture.. Mr. Darrow
was most favorably impressed that this berry
was far ahead of the St. Regis and Ranere, and
when it became known it would replace these
varieties. The plant is by far the strong-
est growing raspberry I have ever seen. It
branches like a tree, and it also has the largest
and most roots of any variety with which I am
acquainted. It is perfectly hardy and the
berries are very large.”
The Ranere and St. Regis have been
the standard up to the present time.
In the Erskine Park we have a berry
that far surpasses either of these; a
raspberry that is a delight to eat, each
berry being of largest size, with its de-
licious melting flesh, full of rich
creamy juice, highly flavored and sweet
as honey.
On November the 20th we cut a
large branch of the Erskine Park with
blossoms, green berries and ripe fruit
upon it.
Bearing Plants, per six, $3; per twelve, $5; per fifty, $15
Send for our Free illustrated Catalogue which describes the
‘““WORLD’S BEST’’ trees and plants for your garden
GLEN BROS,., Inc. 4
Glenwood Nursery
1805 Main Street
New York
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
56 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE Marcu, 1919
EAC EE
Flowering Shrubs
Keep Your Garden in Bloom all Summer
MTA
mn
The fullest loveliness of your garden, lawn or avenue is much dependent on your shrubs and trees.
Don’t choose those with ragged, insignificant flowers or those which dazzle during the blooming
season and then grow shabby and commonplace.
A succession of color throughout the season may be obtained at a reasonable cost by judiciously
planting a proper selection of flowering shrubs.
Because many people find it hard to pick out the
best selections, We offer the following suggestions.
PHILADELPHUS coronarius. Mock Orange; abundance of rosy pink flowers in early May
Sweet Syringa. 5 feet. Well known and valu- before the leaves appear.
able for its sweet-scented white flowersin June. WIBISCUS ( Althea) Syriacus. Rose of Sharon.
DEUTZIA Pride of Rochester. Large flower- Abundant and continuous bloom through August
ing Deutzia. Double; petals faintly tinged with and September. As they bloom on new wood
rose. Culy amuse be ed in wae 1a Sues Du
HYDRANGEA grandiflora. 5 feet. Bearing De ee 7 Een poo ue
immense pyramidal panicles of flowers from SES ane dodne
‘ August to frost. Flowers lasting, at first white, —1YDRANGEA grandiflora alba. Hills of snow.
. 4 feet. This new introduction bears large clus-
SHEDIEINS 1 TOSS COLOE GE EES: : ters of sterile flowers and of clearer white than
WEIGELA, Eva Rathke. 4 feet. Flowerscrim- the type, lasting and abundant in midsummer.
son, making a striking contrast with the white y,pUuRNUM plicatum. Japan Snowball. 6
stamens. A profuse bloomer in spring and feet. Upright, bushy growth; dark green leaves;
again in late autumn. large heads of enduring white flowers; superior
CERCIS canadensis. Judas Tree. Bears an to the common sort.
Each, 50c.; Per 10, $4.00; Per 100, $35.00
THE ORIENTAL PLANE TREE—DEEP SHADE QUICKLY. So popular for lining avenues,
etc., that we grow it by the thousand and can make exceptional prices. It develops splendidly in
ample space. All sizes and quantities, $1 each and up.
800 Acres—Over 100 Years of Faithful Service
We Can Help You. Send for Catalogue and any Advice You Need
AMERICAN NURSERY CO., FLUSHING, L. L., NEW YORK
CARAT I
LU
1, Price Rose Sale
_This special offer enables you to provide for a lovely
display of “Monthly” Hybrid Tea Roses at almost no
cost. My regular price is 5 for $1, but I now again make
a special half-price offer of 10 Roses, each one a dif-
ferent variety, sent prepaid, and all for only $r, if you
order. NOW. (60 for $5.) If you appreciate choice
Roses, don’t miss this liberal offer. Provide NOW for
a permanent and handsome display at small cost.
Other Big $1 Specials
50 lovely Gladioli, $1; 12 fine Dahlias, $1; 12 assorted Hardy Iris,
$1; 12 gorgeous Cannas, $1; 5 grand Peonies, $1.
WHITE, RED, BLACK,
PURPLE
GRAPES |
Wouldn’t you enjoy rich, sweet,
luscious Grapes of your own growing
each year? For only $1 I will sup-
ply four 2-year old vines, 1 each of
Niagara — white; Brighton— red;
Concord— purple, and Worden—
black. Send $1 for this collection today
and enjoy a lifetime treat.
NEW GRAPE—The Hubbard | peek x CLARENCE B. FARGO
Frenchtown, N. J.
IRISES, PEONIES, GLADIOLI Superior quality with distinct flavor that is refreshing. | | .,12 St- Regis Everbearing Red Raspberries, $1. (All de-
s em. Sweet, few seeds, skin thin, bunch and berries large. liveries made at proper time.)
Importers and growers of choice varieties. Early.
F 2-year-old vines $1.50 each: 10 for $12 postpaid
Send for our free illustrated catalogue. Supply of roots limited. Order early.
HUBBARD is the best new, black grape we have tested. Hardy Ferns and Flowers
1980 Montreal Ave. Circular free.
RAINBOW GARDENS $f pag MINN.
T. S. Hubbard Company, Box 18, Fredonia, N. Y.
For Dark, Shady Places
, Plan NOW to plant your
native ferns and flowers
early in the spring.
Early planting brings
; \ live best results. Send
(g RSS for descriptive cat-
alogue of over 80
pages. It’s FREE..
EDWARD GILLETT
3 Main Street, Southwick, Mass.
TRADE MARK REGISTERED
‘yond OWEET CORN
a
De Lue's GOLDEN GIANT
URNISHES the sweetest and most luscious creamy nutriment
you can imagine. Acclaimed the most important horticultural
acquisition of recent years. Awarded the only medal given
>
GIANT
ee
:
Ee ] for sweet corn by the Massachusetts Horticultural Society in
=: wl «67 years.
'Z E = Y= De Lue’s Golden Giant is the result of 12 years’ selection from the
w === M4) oproduct of the Howling Mob crossed with Golden Bantam and
aa E = M-) «combines all the good points of both parents.
j = a
Coe A } = Stalks very short and stout near the ground. Two to three ears; 8 to 9 OF :
9 = “1 = inches long; cob of small diameter, carrying from 12 to 22 rows of long ees Write to-day for new catalogue enabling
: = 4 z , you to plant the orchard, home acre or
*" broad kernels of deep orange color. : ; city lot with an expert’s advice as to best
E ey This seed offered by the originator is 2 years in advance of that sold by nt = varieties aug how a instire, suceea
BS competitors (as to selection). Beware of substitutes. ; Dea tinee: Eales ea mee co ian Tae A siceiect cs 10)?
E Bs It excels all other early varieties in size, productiveness and quality and SAVE BIG MONEY
all the late varieties in quality and early maturity. Growers report that by buying direct from Green. Keep in your own pocket
it is from 1 to 2 weeks earlier than Golden Bantam. /t 1s the one corn for agent’s profits es sone halt ee cost and get the best
the home or market gardener who wants the greatest amount of highest quality corn in the shortest period of time freceathat tani besprod iced, shard iealthy,) sturdy sock ie
from the smallest piece of land. Illustrated circular “How to Know and How to Grow a Perfect Sweet Corn’ ete Largest ood Gees: Nursery,
arate ; . i cz Z. SOcts., I pint=I2 ozs. $5.00, I quart $10.00. elling Pedigree Trees Direct to Planters
sent with order. Price } oz. 35 cts., I oz. 50 cts., I pint $5 q $ Everything for the le and On prongs priced for
. ] ) 7 small or large quantities. Waluable planting information in-
Send Check or Money Order. No Stamps. STA Coe Nie i
7 GREEN’S NURSERY CO., 7 Wall Street,
FREDERICK S. De LUE, M.D. Experimental Farm Needham, Mass. Dept. G Rochester, N.Y.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Marca, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 57
SINR
: To Gladiolus
Enthusiasts
The greatest strides in the improvement of these beautiful flowers
anywhere in the world, have been made in the last six years by Mr.
Diener of Kentfield, California. Out of the common, well known
varieties he has, by a new method of his own invention, produced
varieties three times the size of the old ones. Not only so, but the
coloring in many cases is of such beauty that it is impossible to do it
justice. The pen fails to give the picture; one must see them to ap-
preciate their loveliness.
They were for the first time shown to the world at the Panama
Pacific International Exposition at San Francisco in ro15. They
were the sensation of the whole Flower Exhibit. During the time the
flower spikes of these Gladioli were opening up many specialists and
enthusiastic lovers of Gladioli made daily visits to our Gladiolus beds
at the Exposition. They were as intensely interested as a small boy
during fireworks. No flower on earth, not even the orchid, presents
more variations of coloring or more lovely combinations, and at this
exposition all the highest awards were won by these Gladioli.
We have now increased the quantity of these bulbs to such a de-
gree that almost everybody is able to pay the prices we ask for them.
Our Catalogue for 1919, describing these new varieties and many other
new creations of Mr. Diener, is free. Write for it to-day.
RICHARD DIENER COMPANY
Marin County
Kentfield
California
’
=
on
HANAN
World’s Best Dahlias
Some Wonderful New
Creations for
1919
We “ARE” the Largest in the World
Unusual Seed Offer
Dollar and a Half’s Worth for $1.00
You have known of the goodly things that have so many years
come from the greenhouses and nurseries of The Sign of the Tree.
Now we want you to know about its fine vegetable and flower seeds.
We want you to have our new catalogue with its choice seed as-
sortments and offerings in perennials. The catalogue by itself you
are most welcome to. If with a request for one you include a
dollar, we will send you a collection of 15 vegetable seeds or 15 flower
seeds, costing $1.50. You save 50 cents. Or you save a dollar if
you order both vegetable and flower.
UD
Our New Catalogue tells the
plain truth about the Best New,
VEGETABLES
This is an assortment made by our
seed expert. He says they are ample
for a garden for a family of five. Con-
tains full assortments of such things
as radishes, lettuce, beets, to which
an added goodly quantity of Golden
Bantam corn and stringless beans.
15 kinds, costing $1.50, for $1.00, postpaid.
ulius
At The S
Box 10
FLOWERS
This collection of 15 annuals was
made up by the head of the Trowel
and Sunbonnet Club. Could you ask
for a better guarantee of their choice-
ness? By planting them you are as-
sited of entire season’s succession of
oom.
15 kinds, costing $1.50, for $1.00, postpaid.
Roehrs Co
if of The Tree
utherford N.J.
=
Rare and Standard Dahlias.
Beautifully illustrated.
Write to-day for free copy.
PEACOCK DAHLIA FARMS
P, O. Berlin New Jersey
TTT TT
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
58
“Perfect Success”
Bucket Sprayer
for flower and
vegetable
gardens, green-
houses, etc.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
1919
Marcua,
The Appeal of
Growing Things—
T’S a normal trait in human nature to love
to ‘‘grow things’’—to develop rich luxuri-
ant foliage, gorgeous blossoms, and flawless
fruit and vegetables.
Too many a painstaking gardener finds his
efforts wasted through lack of an early pre-
caution. Bugs, worms, blotch and scale rob
him of his reward.
Spraying was overlooked
Yet spraying is simpler and cheaper than you prob-
ably imagine—the right sprayer and a few cents worth
of spraying materials accomplish wonders if done
in time.
The Deming 1919 Catalog will surprise you—it will be so
easy to locate a Sprayer to fit your particular problem. Free
on request.
THE DEMIMG COMPANY
302 DEPOT STREET SALEM, OHIO
oe
di-ron F E N CIN Gihiainiink
PNTERPRISE Fencing protects and
beautifies city homes, country estates,
etc. It
lends distinction and enchances
property values.
Enterprise Fencing is backed by 34 years
of specialized experience in building and
erecting All-Iron and Chain-
Link Fencing.
Prices are
again moderate and seem to
have reached a point at which
they will stay.
Our catalog
describes and pictures styles
and designs, and gives complete
data.
Write to-day for this free
catalog, mentioning purpose for
which fencing is desired.
i
ENTERPRISE IRON WORKS
2460 Yandes Street
Indianapolis
Fase (Etstii’ |
\
Make Things Grow by Right Pruning
The big oranges, the rich rosy apples the kiddies like so
well, the American Beauty rose—all are the products of
experts. Growers and florists who know exactly how, as well
as the kind of pruning shears to use—Pexio.
The kind they use is none too good for you. You want
your trees, shrubs, and hedges to grow and thrive.
And Pexto Pruning Shears will help you get these good
results. You can identify the Pexto Dealer by Pexto Tool
Displays—displays of specially selected kinds.
A Practical Pruning Guide
The Little Pruning Book by F. F. Rockwell, a widely
known writer with practical pruning experience, tells how,
when, and where to prune for the most vigorous and
healthy growth. Sent prepaid for 50 cents (48 pages).
THE PECK.STOW & WILCOX COMPANY
Southington, Conn. Cleveland, Ohio
Address correspondence to 2186 W. Third St., Cleveland, O.
100% American for 100 Years
FOUNDED IN 1819
A Garden Library for a
Dollar and a Quarter
Bound volumes of THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
represent the last word on gardening. It is really
a loose leaf cyclopedia of horticulture. You are
kept up-to-date. Save your copies of THE GAR-
DEN MAGAZINE and let us bind them for you.
There is a new volume every six months, and
Vol. 28 is now ready. Send your magazines by
Parcel Post and we will supply index, and bind
them for you for $1.25. If you have not kept all
of the numbers we will supply the missing copies
at 25c each, or we will supply the bound volume
complete for $2.00. THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
can be of more service this year than ever before,
and you can get most out of the magazine when you
bind it, and keep it in permanent form. Address:
Circulation Department
GARDEN MAGAZINE, Garden City, N. Y.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 59
sornell
Systems of
Irrigation
Marca, 1919
ett
: eT |
assure lawns of richness and
gardens productive of vegeta-
bles and flowers. You can
have rain when you want it.
where you want it, and how
you want it.
Economy, simplicity and
efficiency come with Cornell
Overhead and Underground
Irrigation Systems, with pa-
tented, adjustable Rain Cloud
paeeroaud System iS ES. sateen Nozzles. Installed any time—
fete sts ae for any area. No injury to
lawn or garden.
Illustrated . | Plumbing, 4
Booktet Free ~~ WG. Cornell Company teste tii
Zoe Belg le seein Reb ET, NEW yo O ROK "Cl Tey
Railway Exchange Bldg., Ghiciec: Ill, Commerce Trust Bldg., Kansas City, Mo. Ledger-News Bldg., Cleveland, Ohio 86 Park Place, Newark, N. J. ;
334 Shawmut Avenue, Boston, Mass. Munsey Bldg., Baltimore, Md. 923—12th Street, N.W,, Washington, D. C. 302 Colonial Trust Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa.
Oliver Bldg., Pittsburgh, Pa. National Bank of Commerce Bldg., Norfolk, Va.
HODGSON fez
UILDING a summer cottage or bungalow, a
playhouse for the children or a garage need
not be a “building operation” at all. Do it
the Hodgson way. Forget about the usual details
and avoid all the muss and fuss. A Hodgson Port-
able House will come to you in sections ready to be
put together and it doesn’t require an expert to do
the putting together either.
Now you probably have your own ideas of what
you want and you possibly think you couldn’t get
a house all made that would “‘fit” those ideas. Well,
send for the Hodgson catalogue and see if there isn’t
a Hodgson House that will suit your needs exactly.
The catalogue is beautifully illustrated and gives complete
details of the Hodgson System. Send for it now and get your
order in early so as to be sure of getting your house when you
want it.
E. F. HODGSON CO.
Room 228 71-73 Federal Street, Boston
6 East 39th St., New York City
Sy LN
= TTS
FRENCH CAT-TAIL FOUNTAIN,
Garden of J. B. Duke, Esq., Somerville, N. J.
DISPLAY FOUNTAINS for LAWNS, PARKS, GARDENS
ENTRANCE GATES, FENCES, MARQUISES, LAMP
POSTS a GATE, POs LANTERNS
BRONZE and SPELTER STATUES, MEMORIALS,
TABIEESS;) cbs
Write for Catalogues and Special Designs
ORNAMENTAL DEPARTMENT
DE See OumimikeON VW OIRIKS
TRENTON, NEW JERSEY
FIFTH AVENUE anp 17TH STREET NEW YORK, N. Y,
MMMM MOM MNCmn mnmnN ic =
ETM UUNIUUUUILLUULL.UULUHUL UL,
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Marcu,
Philadelphus—‘‘Mer de Glace’’
New Hybrid Philadelphus
The great French hybridizer Lemoine has produced a new race of
Philadelphus commonly known as Syringa or Mock Orange that are the
most valuable introduction in shrubs in twenty-five years. Not only
are the flowers wonderfully improved but they are produced in marvel-
ous profusion and the smallest and youngest plants are covered with
flowers. Nothing has ever attracted more attention and admiration
in our trial grounds where they have been thoroughly tested.
‘“‘Mer de Glace’’ (Sea of Ice). Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful
shrubs introduced for many years. Everyone is familiar with so-
called Syringa or Mock Orange but Lemoine, the great French hy-
bridizer, has improved this old shrub wonderfully. The flowers are
globular semi-double, of a glistening pure white and deliciously
sweet-scented. It would be impossible for a shrub to bear more
flowers and the smallest plants are covered. People who have seen
it in our trial grounds have been delighted with this exquisite shrub.
$1.00 each; $10.00 per dozen.
Albatre. An extremely floriferous shrub in the way of the beautiful
variety “Mer de Glace,’”’ slender branches furnished with middle-
sized serrate leaves. Full double flowers produced in dense panicles,
pure white. Very sweet. $1.00 each; $10.00 per dozen.
Dame Blanche. Small foliage, upright branches set with semi-
double fringed flowers. Cream-white, very fragrant. 50c each,
$5.00 per dozen.
Favorite. The large erect branches are furnished with waxed leaves
and carry large single flowers 3 inches wide. Pure white with a
bunch of yellow stamens. Small plants. 75¢ each.
Glacier. Strong and erect stems, medium-sized ovate, serrate leaves.
Flowers double, clustered by six or seven, in erect and thickly set
panicles, each panicle being similar to one enormous double flower.
A very good sort. 75c each, $7.50 per dozen.
Mont Blane. Upright branches, panicles of numerous sweet-scented
flowers. 50c each, $5.00 per dozen.
ELLIOTT NURSERY CO.
Virginal.
large and double, pure white.
A vigorous and tall shrub. Flowers in dense clusters,
A grand sight. $1.00 each, $10.00
per dozen.
Magdalena.
Medium sized flowers; pure white. Very desirable.
50c each, $5.00 per dozen.
Oeil de Pourpre.
plants.
Creamy white with blackish purple spot. Small
75c each, $7.50 per dozen.
One each of the nine varieties described above will be sent for $5.75.
TREES AND SHRUBS AT
Sacrifice Prices
Having closed our nursery at Princeton Junction,
N. J., cn account of war conditions, we are offering
the following surplus stock at remarkably low prices
to close it out. These prices are for carload lots only,
and digging and packing will be charged at actual cost,
which will not be much, as packing in box cars 1s very
inexpensive. This stock is first class in every respect.
Stock will be shipped from Princeton Junction, N. J.
ELLIOTT NURSERY COMPANY
Pittsburgh, Pa.
DECIDUOUS TREES |
75 Schwedler’s Maples,
200 Sugar Maples,
350 Norway Maples,
225 Norway Maples,
200 Silver Maples,
100 Wier’s Cut-Leaved Maples,
150 European White Birch,
120 Purple Birch,
50 Crab Apples Atrosanguinea, '
40 Crab Apples Florabunda, s 5
35 Purple Beech, 5 : |
150 Horse Chestnut, 7 |
60 Tulip Trees,
300 Oriental Sycamores, '
100 Carolina Poplars,
500 Lombardy Poplars,
400 Red Oaks,
100 Mountain Ash,
100 Lindens (Tilia ’Plataphyllos),
100 Lindens European,
200 Lindens American
50 Lindens Silver-Leaved,
36 Lindens Silver-Leaved,
EVERGREENS
75 Concolor Spruce,
300 Biota Orientalis,
300 Hemlock Spruce,
100 Hemlock Spruce,
225 Mugho Pines,
125 Blue Spruce,
45 Pinus Flexilis,
100 Douglas Spruce,
300 White Spruce,
1000 White Pines,
75 Scotch Pines,
500 Austrian Pines,
200 American Arborvitae,
DECIDUOUS SHRUBS
500 Spireza Van Houttei,
225 Azalea Viscosa,
100 Azalea Nudiflora,
200 Azalea Ghent, Named,
300 Cornus Alba,
200 Cornus Stolonifera,
300 Cornus Stolonifera,
150 Cornus Stolonifera Pendula,
100 Cornus Stolonifera Pendula,
2500 California Privet
EVERGREEN SHRUBS
25 Azalea Hinodegiri,
40 Azalea Amoena,
600 Azalea Amoena,
400 Azalea Amoena,
1000 Dwarf Box,
600 Box (Sempervirens)
200 Ilex Crenata,
300 English Rhododendrons, rather poor ae 13-3 ft.
Our spring Catalogue one of the most comprehensive published will
be sent free on request.
Profusely illustrated and contains descrip-
tions and prices of the best Hardy Plants, Shrubs, Rhododendrons,
Azaleas, Roses, Peonies, Bulbs, Ornamental Trees, Flower Seeds and
| the best of everything for Flower Gardens and Home Grounds.
367 Fourth Ave., Boa Pa.
AT
<= cca cae Oe is
Advertisers will appreviate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, teo
Barring Out Foreign Novelties
Readers Express Opinions on the Exclusion Order of the Federal Horticultural Board and Suggest Action to Get the
Fairly Before the Public
Underground Legislation?—Let’s Get at the Truth
HE letters printed below and which are representative of
others that we have received, demand serious consideration
from everyone concerned with the making of gardens and
the growing of plants, particularly owners. ‘The feeling is
growing that knowingly or unknowingly, the Secretary of Agri-
culture and the Federal Horticultural Board are being used to pro-
mote the interests of particular sections of the horticultural industry
under the guise of an entirely different and beneficial purpose.
It is fair to ask, whether the Department of Agriculture, through
the action of the Federal Horticultural Board, realizes that the order
to become effective June Ist. will result in directly creating “ pro-
tection” while ostensibly only guarding against possible entry of in-
jurious insects and diseases.
The suggestion of sinister influence behind the proposed order
(which unless countermanded by action in Congress becomes effective
June Ist.next) is plainly suggested in the context of theletters printed
below. The attitude of the board and of the Secretary of Agricul-
ture is that they have the power and they will use it as they see fit.
That was, practically, the answer that Dr. Marlatt made to a de-
putation of nurserymen and florists and others interested when they
appeared before him last summer. Should such a board have such
powers?
Never was there a greater need for all concerned in the cultivation
of plants to be onthe alert. If this order goes into effect unmodified,
Case
its sweeping result will work the greatest of all revolutions in Ameri-
can Horticulture.
The exclusion of much material that now ordinarily graces the
homes, gardens, and greenhouses of the people who find a delight.
in the beauties of growing plants, who enjoy a collection of rarities,
who feel that the American home and garden is entitled to the best
available material that the world contains—all of these will suddenly
be cut off from everything that is not already in the country.
Is the plant lover and the enthusiastic amateur horticulturist
intending to stand by idly without getting at the facts? The Society
of American Florists and the New England Nurserymen’s Associa-
tion have organized for formal protest. Are the established
Garden Clubs, Horticultural Societies, and other institutions
that represent the ‘ultimate consumer’ to stand idly by, and
thus tamely submit to being deprived of what they so much
desire? ‘The published opinion of those who support the order is
taken frankly on the ground that it may protect an infant industry
or perhaps encourage another not yet born.
The paragraph quoted from Plant Immigrants No. 143 plainly dis-
closes that the real purpose of this order is not a quarantine against
pests but to bring about a protection that is not possible through
tariff and legislation: “It will doubtless be the policy of the Federal
Horticultural Board to exclude these plant materials [Lilies, Hya-
cinths, Tulips, and other bulbs] when it would seem assured that the
commercial needs of the country can be met by home grown sup-
plies.”
If you are opposed to the order (Notice of Quarantine No. 37) becoming effective, write at.once to your Congressman and urge that
Where’s the “Nigger”? Lurking?
To the Editor of THE GARDEN MacazinE :—
HERE is a series of queries concerning the new
proposed quarantine on nursery stock, etc.,
by the Federal Horticultural Board on and after
June 1, 1919, that it would be a real service to
have answered. Whether or not the Federal
Horticultural Board has overstepped its authority
is a mere legal angle of no present interest to me.
The florist and the nurseryman have my sym-
pathy inthe exclusion of Box, Bay, etc., but I
have other troubles!
The latest number of Plant Immigrants No. 143
March, 1918, Bureau of Plant Industry, Office of
Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction, gives the
first definite details I have seen of the workings
of the act—hence my sudden curiosity.
I ask of the citizens at large and those in au-
thority to explain to me the following:
In what manner, for what reasons, and to what
purpose were the items of the three lists (admitted,
restricted, excluded) compiled? There seems to
be a large nigger well inside the woodpile.
the whole affair be brought into the daylight.
If itis a plant quarantine, how can seedlings and
cuttings of Roses, Apples, etc., be admitted, but
excluded in toto if united by process of budding
or grafting? If this is a quarantine against in-
jurious insects and diseases | need a new diction-
ary.
To regulate or prohibit importation of 5-needle
Pines; or Orange stock from areas of Citrus dis-
eases has long been the work of the Board. But
why pounce on Box, Forsythia, or Deutzia,
etc.—when did they get diseased or insect-in-
fested? I need a special advanced course in ento-
mology and fungi-ology.
If to protect home nurseries, why not flat-foot
out and say so? Why the camouflage? The
nurseries howl against it; which ones secretly got
the Board started? The deus ex machina is well
inside the machinery. Can a Federal Board
regulate a whole industry before it has that au-
thority from Congress? Is it a “war measure’’?
I thought we were to raise all the food we could
these years; even the nurseries plowed up good
shrub rows for potatoes. Should we concentrate
on Spiraea, Dicentra, and Scilla?
61
Is it just to the devastated industries of western
continental Europe to suddenly (June 1,1919) cut
off nearly wholly their horticultural trade with the
New World? Evidently an international ques-
tion for the Peace Conference.
The Department of Agriculture can of course
import any of the excluded plants. Is Uncle
Sam going into the nursery business as a mono-
poly, or will members of Congress send out
Dorothy Perkins Roses in spring and Snowdrops
in fall to constituents, instead of seeds? Please
send me your share next summer of Calla Little
Gem. It is a plant I have long wanted, but no
dealers have it in stock, and they won’t be able
to lay in a supply before June I, 1919.
But those are all academic questions. ‘These
are my personal troubles:
Last fall I patriotically bought Liberty Bonds
and postponed the planting of my hardy bulb
garden until more favorable times. Now I am
allowed to buy next fall all Lilies (Oh! joy!), Lily-
of-the-Valley, three species of Narcissus, Hya-
einth, Tulips, and Crocus—but none others.
And Why? Are Scilla and Snowdrops Germanic,
62
or what have they done? Lilies, the most fickle
and disease-bearing of all bulbs, may come in
provided the soil about them has been baked or
sterilized. How joyous the first spring shoots
of a baked lily bulb!
Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus, N. Bulboco-
dium—valuable (?) in natural planting—and N.
Tazetta for indoor forcing are still ours—but
never N. poeticus, N. Jonquilla, N. poetaz, nor
N. incomparabilis, and why? Why is one Daf-
fodil more “daffy” than another?
Even Autumn Crocuses are not denied, but
they who have Colchicum in their gardens will
be the proudest of the proud. Can someone
share with me (even one corm) of their Colchicum
Bornmuelleri?
If there is some infant industry of bulb growing
of rare and small bulbs in this country that this
act will foster, how soon will the secret be out?
Will my next Chionodoxa bulbs come from Bell-
ingham, Wash.? Are there enough of these ex-
cluded bulbs and roots there to fill the demand
of all the garden builders next fall? If so, then
the newspapers must have lost a scoop and a
miracle of industry was perfected secretly in war
time. Frankly, I don’t believe any great quan-
tity of Scilla bifolia, American grown, will be
available next fall.
One more—even though Lilies, Hyacinths,
Tulips and other bulbs are now allowed under the
regulations—‘‘it will doubtless be the policy of
the Federal Horticultural Board to exclude these
plant materials when it would seem assured that
the commercial needs of the country can be met
by home grown supplies.’ (Quoted from Plant
Immigrants No. 143.) Now where do we get off?
Who, when, where, why, how and what will decide
this supply of home-grown supplies to be ade-
quate? I hope to keep a complete file of the
catalogues of all these fortunate nurserymen and
growers. And will these bulbs be of guaranteed
good quality and no more expensive, compara-
tively, than those brought, to date, from Europe?
I do want to know as soon as the Federal Horti-
cultural Board can print a statement. If the
bulb situation is a fair sample of the value of the
proposed quarantine, ! !
I have notrun out of ideas, but I pause for
breath.
This proposed regulation affects me as owner
of a garden, as a landscape designer, and in-
structor in the same; also as interested in the new
trees, shrubs, and herbs of the Orient and their
guick introduction (when valuable) into our gar-
dens. The study of our hardy perennials, in a
way similar to that of the Arnold Arboretum in
trees and shrubs, is a work for the near future,
but I have nothing to say on that at present.
As a citizen I marvel at the bungling unrea-
sonableness of this Federal Board’s act, but I
wish as a grower of plants to know what 1s really
behind it! Except for actual dealers and they
who read the trade journals, the general garden
public never heard of this greatest event in Ameri-
can horticulture. Even though it may be good
medicine for us in the Jong run, we should like to
know why this drastic treatment. I hope that
the GARDEN MacGazineE will before June have
explained all this to its readers in detail, and if
this thing ought to be we should be told why. If,
as seems from present evidence, something is be-
ing put over on us, we should be sure of the facts
and then go after it. And as a public weapon
nothing succeeds like ridicule. At present the
regulation is as full of jokes as a sieve is of holes.
Massachusetts. STEPHEN F. Hamp tin.
A Charming Subterfuge
To the Editor of Tat GARDEN MaGazineE:
M* ATTENTION is directed to your editorial
= in the January number commenting on the
plant exclusion edict which becomes effective
June I.
This order of the Department of Agriculture
has raised a whirlwind of protest from the great
DHE GAR DE Neg MAG A457, ENE
Marcu, 1919
mass of professional and amateur gardeners who
regard its promulgation and execution as un-
necessary, ineffective, and flagrantly discrim-
inating.
If the danger of importing serious additions
to our list of insect pests and plant diseases is
great enough to warrant prohibiting the importa-
tion of practically all ornamentals, why should
not the entry of fruit stocks be also refused?
Why charge one class of nursery product with
potentiality for harm and punish it with ex-
clusion, while other classes with an equal ten-
dency to carry the danger are permitted entry?
You say that it is “idle now to point out that
the most devastating insect pest, the gypsy moth,
for instance, was not introduced as an accidental
rider on plants and nursery stock but was the
deliberate introduction of a scientific investigator
for an entirely different purpose.” Permit me to
differ. I believe it’s not only worth while, but
our duty to ourselves and posterity to point out
the inconsistencies of this ruling, not only to the
Agricultural Department, but to our Congress-
men and Senators. Let them know how the
gypsy moth was expected to prove a foundation
for a great silk industry, how the cotton boll
weevil simply moved from wild cotton to the
cultivated. How the recently introduced corn-
stalk borer (described in your January issue)
came in a bale of hemp. How other dangerous
foreign insects broke out through departmental
agencies at Washington.
You say,—‘‘Of course, in the long run, we may
all be better off.” I fully agree, but not by the
exclusion. [The agitation which has only started
and which IJ feel confident will result in rescinding
the order will prove highly educational. It will
teach the great mass of gardeners the necessity
of greater vigilance in detecting and destroying
the enemies of our horticultural subjects. As a
result we will be better off.
In the meantime, every interested person
should use his or her influence to impress upon
Congress the far-reaching injustice of the order
and bring pressure to secure its rescinding. I do
snot make the plea purely on the ground of the un-
necessary destruction of an established industry,
not only of the United States, but also of practi-
cally all foreign countries. Through the span of
life nearly every man meets unforeseen obstacles
and disasters. The florists and nurserymen ot
America are resourceful enough, trained to hard
and concentrated effort, to withstand the de-
molition of the business structures which, in
many cases, represent the patient building ot
several generations. [hey may emerge from the
experience better equipped mentally to success-
fully combat the trials and tribulations which
beset their paths. But what of the great ma-
jority of American citizens, whose communion
with Nature in her variety of beauteous forms
should be stimulated and fostered? ‘The tired
business man, the overworked housewife, the
wage-easger, all whose minds need rest and re-
freshmérit must be considered. It is an evasion
to say that our native flora can provide all the
recreation for tired souls. It were as well to
suggest for some economic purpose that a Ford
car would fill the requirements of everyone and
so prohibit the manufacture of all other types.
Let us admit that the restrictions might have
the tendency to stimulate American develop-
ment of novelties and lead us to greater efforts
in attempting to produce here material which
generations of experience have taught the world
can best be grown in specially favored localities.
If the facts justified the claim of necessity in the
exclusion, we would all as cheerfully submit as
we do to a smallpox quarantine. But, while
ornamental horticultural products are by infer-
ence charged with responsibility for the introduc-
tion of injurious insects and dangerous diseases,
a careful analysis of the source and manner of
introduction of the great mass of dangerous pests
exonerates them.
For more thana century the practice of import-
ing horticultural products has grown so that to-
day millions of dollars are invested in the business.
Not only here but in France, Belgium, Holland,
England and many smaller countries. In all
this time until 1912 there existed practically no
restriction and no inspection. Since 1912 there
has been rigid inspection of all importations upon
arrival in this country. ‘This in addition to very
thorough phytopathological supervision in prac-
tically all foreign states.
Let us consider the very inconsistent discrim-
ination which permits the importation of Rose
stocks for grafting or budding, but prohibits the
bringing in of the budded or grafted Rose. Why?
Because there are a few more square inches of
surface on the Rose stem which increases the
area on which the pest may be harbored? But
the fact is patent that if any danger exists it lies
in the possibility of a lurking egg or germ in the
root-mass which remains the same after budding
as before and since 1912 the inspectors have not
reported infection or infestation on the millions of
Roses wmported.
Another rank inconsistency is found in the
embargo on bulbs. While Hyacinths, Tulips,
Narcissi, Crocuses, and Lilies are permitted,
hundreds of varieties of bulbs not in that small
list are excluded. The prohibited varieties are
not charged with greater potentiality as pest
carriers. The excuse is made that by elimin-
ating the hundreds of various bulbs, probably
nine tenths of the danger is overcome. This is
but another evidence of the miscarriage of the
purposes of the Congressional delegation of legis-
lative powers to a body of scientific men with no
familiarity with the commercial side of the
question. For every seedsman and florist knows
that the importations of the several varieties of
bulbs not prohibited constitute fully ninety
per cent. of the total importations of that class
of goods! What will really happen will be an
increase in these varieties to fill the places of the
other ten per cent. and no good will result.
But the limitation would result in a condition
similar to an attempt to cook an appetizing meal
with plenty of beef, pork, fish, potatoes, and flour
but nothing else. No salt and pepper to flavor.
Nothing but these truly vital ‘‘necessities.”
How many successive meals cooked under these
limitations would be satisfying?!
Finally, the Federal Horticultural Board was
created for a very beneficent purpose. It was
given great powers. It has exercised them here-
tofore in such a manner that great good has
resulted. In doing this it has heretofore acted
within the spirit as well as the letter of the Act
creating it. It was undoubtedly intended that
whenever any special outbreak of dangerous in-
sect or disease appeared upon any class of plant
the Board should have power to regulate and in
extraordinary cases to prohibit the entry of this
class of plant until the danger had passed. But
I am confident that it was not intended nor anti-
cipated by Congress that the practical exclusion
of all ornamental nursery stock and the destruc-
tion of a vast industry would at any time be con-
sidered unless some extraordinary crisis devel-
oped. It cannot be successfully contended that
present conditions warrant the drastic action
which has been taken.
Riverton, N. J. E. H. Micuet.
Fosters an Infant Industry
To the Editor of THe GARDEN MaGazinE:
"THE excellence of your magazine for fur-
thering a love of nature’s beautiful plants
among our population, and your efforts along
these lines are greatly to be commended, and
have won my admiration for the last ten years or
more that I have been a subscriber. But “‘no
Roses without thorns,” so—
In your January issue you appear to disapprove
of the new restrictions on nursery and plant im-
Marca, 1919
portations by the Department of Agriculture.
While I realize that many changes will be ac-
complished in gardening and floriculture by
these restrictions yet I fail to see where much
harm can come, but do not fail to see where
much good will be the result of the new order of
things to be. American horticulture and the
florist’s trade in general has suffered severely
during the war; we can also well admit that the
florist’s business is not making many recruits
among the younger generation as but few young
men or women are enthused to the point of
making a full apprenticeship in order to make a
successful living out of the business. Why?
Many of us ponder over this question until we
take a look at what other trades can offer once the
apprentice has knowledge and experience in his
particular line. To become a really proficient
florist, well acquainted with the various phases of
his chosen calling, means as much study and la-
bor as the calling of a physician or engineer
requires, and then what are the rewards in com-
parison! The reason why the ‘skilled gardener
or florist is not more appreciated is the fact that
the products requiring the most skill to produce
are simply imported from Europe where the
slaves of labor and militarism produce the stock
to flood American markets..
Why not earnestly support every effort that
helps to make our country independent? We
are absolutely able to produce all that the public
will demand and buy, but we must have a price
that is higher than for goods produced abroad.
Explained to.the public properly, this order will
be given its full approval and the standing of
our trade in the community will rise to higher
levels than it has ever been before. In my
opinion the press ought to give this ruling of the
Department of Agriculture the fullest support
possible instead of furthering the desires of a very
Fall Flowering Iris.—Since my note in Jan-
uary about fall-flowering Iris in general and
Tris lurida in particular (page 170) I have been
much pleased to receive a letter from Mr. W.
Rickatson Dykes, the English authority on Irises,
in answer to one | wrote him in regard to this
two-flowering habit of lurida. ‘My impression,”
he says, “is that garden hybrids are much more
liable to flower a second time than are the species.
I take it that you mean lurida Redouteana, and
that this is a hybrid J am tolerably certain, though
I cannot suggest its parents.” I think this is very
interesting. And a western correspondent re-
minds me that in the Iris catalogue of R. Wallace
& Co. I. Mrs. Alan Gray is credited with a second
flowering. This Iris is the result of a cross be-
tween I. Ciengialti and I. Queen of May. I
have just added this variety to my collection so
am able to make no report upon it. Mr. Dykes
further said that here in America where the
autumn is long and sunny, Iris plants are much
more apt to be encouraged to a second flowering,
than in damper, less sunny climates.—L. B.
Wilder.
Fall-blooming Iris —In the January issue,
Mrs. Wilder asks, “Are there other fall-blooming
Irises?” In my large collection Mrs. Alan Gray
blooms habitually and abundantly in May and
again in August and September (a note records
its bloom on Lafayette Day). It is a cross be-
tween the now well known pallida variety, Queen
of May, and the less well known species, Cen-
gialti. The color, a soft lilac pink, is lovely.
‘The stems are two feet and more, quite over-
topping the foliage and are, in the autumn, three
and four flowered. In May, blooming with the
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 63
few large importing firms by fostering their ef-
forts in preventing adoption of the new restric-
tions. ‘lhe capital invested by these firms can
equally well be employed in American products
and help American industries instead of injuring
them to the advantage of foreign powers.
Those who claim that American Azaleas, Rho-
dodendrons, Conifers, etc., cannot be produced
equal to the best imported should visit the coast
of the Pacific Northwest to change and enlighten
their opinion and knowledge on the possibilities
of the country; and to the eastern public a re-
minder might not be amiss that the state of
Oregon is yet a field practically untapped by or-
namental horticulture with a climate surpassing
that of Belgium and Holland for the production
of nursery stock. When the war needs of our
country called on Oregon for its share that share
was promptly forthcoming, sc why should Oregon
be slighted and its possibilities lie dormant in
order that a few importing firms may continue to
patronize foreign producers and have them flood
the country with products that can all be raised
right here with labor waiting for employment?
Such are the facts but sadly too little known.
Tue GarDEN Macazine might well use its
influence for the good of the masses, and point
out to its readers that hope for fine flowers, sup-
plied in the past from Europe, need not be given
up when the source of past supply is shut off.
Our enterprising nurserymen will soon get to
work and open up new sources in suitable locali-
ties in the great Northwest states.
Portland, Ore. J. G. Bacuer.
Misdirected Energy
To the Editor of THe GarpEN MaGazZziIne:
I AM dismayed to read in your January issue
that an embargo is to be placed on the im-
portation of plants, bulbs, etc. It seems to me
IG QUR GARDEN |!
EG SO Ta Ee RET ===. Say
iChe OPEN COLUMN }
r Readers Be el, en eeu’ SESS
Ope Se on Ieeas 9s 98h
intermediate Iris Ingeborg (large white) over
well established clumps of Phlox divaricata, it
makes an exquisite picture. In August a clump
near Funkia subcordata gave great ‘pleasure and
in September over pegged down Boltonia as-
teroides it was delightful. This autumn habit of
distributing its bloom over a longer period than
in the spring is a precious one from the Iris lover’s
view point. It is noted that the second bloom
is more perfect on clumps shielded from the after-
noon sun. This variety, in my experience ex-
tending over a number of years, is the only one
from which I confidently expect an autumn
bloom. The Iris lurida has only recently been
added to my collection and, when established,
will, I hope, repeat the interesting habit in my
garden which Mrs. Wilder has found habitual in
her garden. An occasional Iris bloom in late
autumn is not an unusual delight, appearing
almost entirely on the earlier bloomers, i. e. the
pumilas and their hybrids. The record in my
garden this summer and autumn for second bloom
is first, a blossom in July sent up from the very
dwarf pumila variety lutea, on a bracted stem
ten inches high, thus defying all pumila tradition,
which is a long perianth tube and almost no stem.
Mrs. Alan Gray, as described, came next, bloom-
ing in August and September and there was a
scattered iblooml from cristata, cyanea and
Sapphire the first the tiny native crested Iris and
likely to prove one of the sweeping and senseless
measures to which we are constantly subjected
by the Agricultural Department. Cannot you
do something to mitigate the severity of such a
proceeding? Since the war began it has been im-
possible to procure bulbs from Holland and our
gardens have suffered accordingly. As you
know, only a very limited number of varieties
of Tulips and other bulbs is to be had from our
own dealers, and my bulbs have been my greatest
pleasure. [What is understood as Dutch Bulbs
will still be admitted for a time.—Ep.] There
is no pest or disease which is introduced through
these bulbs; and as you point out the very worst
pests we have suffered have been saddled upon
us by so-called scientific investigators! The
Belgian nurseries too, need all the aid we can
give them by importing Azaleas and other plants
in which they alone specialize.
Why cannot a widespread protest or petition
be circulated, perhaps by you and endorsed by
the Garden Club of America, Woman’s National
Farm and Garden Association, and similar or-
ganizations begging our Government to use at
least common intelligence before permitting
such a drastic and disastrous order to take
effect?
My garden is visited from time to time by a
government inspector who is'se€nt out in the inter-
est of the White-pine blister control—a near sighted
young man who does not know a currant bush
from a cabbage; and who blinks at my currant
and gooseberry bushes and then says, “These
are alright, but I found that your black currants
were suspicious!”” And I have never had a black
currant on my place/—But this only goes to show
how futile are many of the measures upon which
our Government fs annually wasting large sums
of money!
Marcia E. Hate.
Florida.
IEIGHBOR
N
the second two, dwarfs, classed sometimes with
the Pumilas, but not true ones. From an un-
named seedling of “The Bride” (white), one of
my own, there came in mid October an exquisite
bloom of soft yellow, fragrant and beautifully
formed. In late October, for the first time with
me, lutescens variety Statellae bloomed freely.
This bloom was made on clumps that had been
severely divided and transplanted in August of
the year before and which bloomed sparingly the
following spring. It is possible that this treat-
ment might insure autumn bloom from this
variety. "T shall try it again. Lutescens is a
distinct species of Iris, ‘retaining its foliage
throughout the winter and giving freely of
Its pretty creamy blossoms on fifteen inch
stems in late April.—Ella Porter McKinney,
New Jersey.
Covering the Ground.—Glad to note that
you intend to make your magazine even more
helpful by having more articles on planning and
beautifying the ‘home grounds. ‘his is as it
should be, but we hope that you will continue to
“boost”? the practical vegetable garden. We
must not let the thousands of war gardens go
back to disuse. Your January number covered
the ground well.—Anna M. Burke, Mass.
Decorative Dwarf Buckeyes.—Some of the
Dwarf Buckeyes are very decorative and are
proving to be unusually good plants for bold
effects on large estates, although their value has
been overlooked in large measure. Perhaps the
best collection in the country is to be found in the
Arnold Arboretum, where several species attract
much attention in the flowering season. Per-
64
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
haps the best known is Aesculus parviflora, a
mid-July flowering kind with a very sturdy,
strong-growing habit. Although the plants never
grow very tall, they often extend over a wide
area. The enormous blossom spikes standing
erect and set closely together, make a very con-
spicuous display. A newer species, and one
which Professor Sargent, director of the Arbor-
etum, considers a very useful plant, is Aesculus
georgiana, which has compact clusters of red
and yellow flowers in late May or June. After
several years it has proved to be perfectly hardy
in New England, and well adapted to cold cli-
mates. Aesculus discolor mollis blooms at about
the same time. That it should be hardy in the
northern states is rather surprising, for it is na-
tive to the South, from Georgia to Texas. It is
one of the scarlet flowered Buckeyes, and a very
attractive plant. Unfortunately it has often
been confused with other species, which may be
one reason why it is not better known in culti-
vation. Almost the last of the dwarf Buckeyes
to flower, blooming late in June, is Aesculus
Harbisonii. It seems to be a hybrid between A.
georgiana and A. mollis. At any rate it appeared
spontaneously in the Arboretum, where it has
been flowering regularly for three years. The
calyx of the flowers is rose colored while the
petals are canary yellow streaked with red.
Arboretum tests show it to be well adapted to
northern gardens. It has only one fault—its
foliage is slow in making its appearance, the
leaves having just started when those of its neigh-
bors have attained full size. A small Buckeye
which bloomed in the Arboretum last summer
for the first time is called Aesculus arguta. It
comes from eastern Texas and Oklahoma, and
probably has never flowered in any garden out-
side of the Arboretum, where it was raised from
seed. The flower clusters are pale yellow, and
the fruit which succeeds the flowers is covered
with prickles. These Dwarf Buckeyes, being
native American plants, are especially desirable
for American gardens. They have many merits,
and when given plenty of room are highly de-
sirable, for few plants are more easily kept in
condition when once established.—E. J. F.
Inflorescence of the Dwarf Buckeye (Pavia) like a miniature
Horse Chestnut, very decorative where tall trees are not suitable
Excellent Rose Trellis.—
Cne of the neatest trellises
I have ever seen stands
against, but several inches
from, the wall of a Nashua,
N. H., neighbor’s house.
It is made of two vertical
rods of +x or 1 in. flat
iron, joined bystraight cross
pieces of the same material
about 15 inches long, and
other pieces about 3 feet long
joined to form inverted Vs
with their lower ends at-
tached where the cross pieces
join the uprights. Alto-
gether there are eight cross
pieces but only 7 Vs, the
uppermost cross piece not
being provided with one.
The apex of the topmost
V reaches above the sill
of the second story window.
A brace of iron screwed
to the trellis and to the
wall holds the rack about
to inches away but holds
it firmly. The impression
is one of grace, simplicity,
and strength.—M. G. K.
“Climbing”? Roses do
not actually climb and
some suitable trellis sup-
port is necessary
Chinese Seeds and Bulbs.—Is there any way
in which a person may, say, have some financial
returns for securing seed and bulbs and sending
them to American, Canadian, or English firms?
For instance, I have just discovered a plant
amongst the West China flowers that would be a
great flower for decorative purposes. For dining
tables, by electric light, it would far outstrip the
Canadian Maple leaf. Is there any way in which
our boys in the day school who are in need of
assistance could become the sole suppliers or
something of the kind?—F. Dickinson, Canadian
Methodist Mission, Peughsion, S. Chuau, West
China.
Making the Pumpkin Grow Fast.—I cer-
tainly enjoy reading THE GARDEN MacazINE
when it comesin. It doesn’t make any difference
how busy I am, everything stops until I have
devoured its pages. In the June, 1918, number
there is an article or rather a note on making the
pumpkin grow fast. I have tried it on several
pumpkins but was not successful in getting the
pumpkin to take even a teaspoonful of drink.
Has any one had better luck than I?—F. Dick-
inson, West China.
Lycoris Japonica as a Garden Flower.—I do
not think that it is generally understood that
this exquisite flower is hardy in our northern
gardens. Known universally throughout the
south as Crimson Spider-lily it is seen in clumps
in nearly every yard or garden of any pretension.
But it is not satisfactory as a pot plant at the
north, and so is rarely, if ever, seen, although it is
almost impossible to actually kill it. Accident
revealed to me its hardiness. A bulb was put
into the open border in the spring with some
Zephyranthes which it much resembles. When
the others were taken up in the autumn the
Lycoris, being still dormant was overlooked.
Some two weeks after I found it growing so
thriftly it seemed a pity to destroy it. As my
garden lies on an eastern and southern slope below
the terraced lawn I rarely lose any plants or bulbs
in winter as the leaves and snow drift down there,
making a perfect nature’s own protection. So
I decided to leave the Lycoris and see what the
result would be. It has survived the two last
winters (the severest ever known in this locality
of Saratoga County), has multiplied, and another
season I expect to have flowers.—Mrs. E. B.
Murray, Ballston Lake, N. Y.
Marcu, 1919
Silver Moon as a Hardy Rose.—Some time ago,
discussing the newer introductions in Roses,
the writer mentioned Silver Moon, and stated
that the infusion of Cherokee blood might give
it a tendency to be less hardy than some others of
its type. Iam happy to do what I can to clear
this beautiful Rose from any suspicion of delicacy
of constitution. A year ago last spring we set
out several plants of this variety—first year size.
They were in a perfectly open, exposed position,
and had no winter protection whatever save that
afforded by the snow. They came unharmed
through the exceptionally severe winter of last
year (when even old established Crimson Ram-
bler succumbed), and flourished vigorously last
summer. ‘This was a severe test, and considering
the small size of the plants, and the trying climate
of Maine, would seem to show conclusively that
Silver Moon is as hardy as need be. So let no
one be deterred from planting this splendid Rose
as freely as it deserves this coming season.—C. F.
Brassey-Brierley, Belfast, Maine.
Jewel-weed.—The men thought me a bit
queer. I had set them to cut weeds among the
timber and here I directed them to let patches of
weeds stand. ‘These patches were colonies of the
pretty little Jewel-weed (Impatiens biflora),
that I wanted to keep for their effect. The plant
is only an annual but self sows so freely that it can
“To water or not to water?’’—The Jewel-weed answers the ques-
tion by its tell-tale behavior
be counted upon for years in the same place. I
tried some of the plants in the wild garden and
in the border and the result was satisfactory in
every instance. They crowd in almost anywhere
and yet they seem to injure nothing. The flowers
are inconspicuous and often hide among the
foliage, yet they are pretty. For lack of sufh-
cient moisture, the leaves will droop to stand
erect again as fresh as ever when moisture 1s
supplied. This characteristic makes it a good
indicator of the soil moisture. When the Jewel-
weed droops, it is time to water the border.—
C. L. Meller, N. D.
Nebraska Carnation.—Amateur florists who are
interested in new varieties will find the Ne-
braska Carnation worthy of a trial. In one of the
commercial ranges of the West, plantings of the
Nebraska are easily distinguished from all other
varieties by a higher percentage of flowers, prac-
tically all of which come perfect. No split calyx
or other physiological trouble is to be found on the
Nebraskas. Color of the flower is a bright red.—
Wis 1h IK,
Hotbed Soil.—A. Correction—In the article on
Planning your Hotbed in the January issue, page
162, the third paragraph should read ‘hotbed
soil” instead of hotbed manure.
Dahlias! Elusive, Yet So Easy! By R. W. WALTERS
HAN GE-
ABLE Dah-
lia; fickle
Dahlia, dis-
appointing Dahlia,
and sometimes—Oh
happy memory—
the gorgeous Dahlia!
well named Dahlia
variabilis. Mrs.
Amateur’s Dahlia
average is usually
one season of good
blooms and two sea-
sons of large bushes
and sunburned
blooms.
In high hopes she
planted her clumps just as she dug
them the previous autumn. She
planted real early in a small hole she
made with a trowel. They came up
briskly, such nice shoots and so many
of them! They flourished like the green
bay tree the Bible tells about. Every day that
it did not rain she turned the hose on those
helpless plants. “Dahlias are like fish, they need
lots of water’ some one had told her, and
she meant to do her duty. The soil became
crusted, but what of that? There were no weeds
around them. The firstof July she triumphantly
displayed to envious competitors the first Dahlia
blooms of the neighborhood. The weather was
still cool and the blooms were richly colored.
But when cut for the house they soon wilted.
“Dahilias aren’t very good for cutting anyway”
she explained. No one told her that it was be-
cause they were grown too wet and soft. Enter
the summer drought. Who ever saw a summer
without a “‘bad dry spell”? The wood hardened;
what few flowers came were one-sided and poorly
colored. However, with the advent of cool fall
rains the plants made a second desperate effort
to bloom, and would have succeeded had Jack
Frost only remained away a few days longer.
But he didn’t, and the Dahlia season ended—a
disappointment.
T° PRODUCE early Dahka blooms might
be called a disappointing success. Dahlia
shoots can be made to grow almost as fast as
ground vines, and they get hard and woody much
quicker. Good flowers are produced always on
the vigorous young growth, and to keep this
growth vigorous is the one high aim. The chief
causes of failure are (in order of their importance),
hard crusted soil, dry weather and insects. With
the advent of cool weather insects usually dis-
appear.
It is to keep Dahlias from trying to bloom dur-
ing extreme summer heat that late planting 1s
advocated. “The flowers show their fire and in-
tensity of colors only during cool weather. Quite
true, some years we are favored with cool moist
summers which are termed “good years for
Dahlias,” but they are the exception, especially
in the inland region of the Northern states.
From the latter part of May until the middle
of June is the accepted planting season in the
North. Well begun is half finished. Whether
we plant in beds or rows, the soil upon which the
tuber is placed should be deeply dug so as to
furnish a loose friable subsoil which will tempt
the feeding rootlets of the Dahlia to grow down-
ward out of reach of the hot summer sun. If
the location is moderately fertile no fertilizer
is necessary at planting time. Indeed, should
it be too rich or of heavy clay, one may well
add sand or fine coal ashes to lighten it. Too
much nitrogen tends toward top-heavy bushes
and few flowers. Excessive watering in the
early stages of growth has the same bad effect.
Cutting made by
taking shoot of
sprouting root. This
is the best way to
get exhibition
flowers
DON! plant large clumps. Divide them. Make
certain to have a portion of the old crown
attached, as this year’s shoots start from the base
of last year’s stem. One sprout to a tuber is
sufiicient—never allow more than two to grow
if the best flowers are desired. Lay the tuber on
its side always, and not standing on end. Plant
about six inches deep, but do not cover to that
depth at first. Leave each planting rather bowl-
shaped, and fill in with soil as the shoots grow.
After four or five pairs of leaves have been
formed, pinch out the tip. This causes laterals
to start, two at each joint, making a dwarf and
symmetrical plant, able to endure weather hard-
ships without the use of unsightly stakes. Also
this pinching back tends to delay blooming time
until cooler weather is in sight.
Don’t forget to cultivate. If one practice is
of more importance than another it is to keep
the ground frequently and thoroughly stirred
from the sprouting of the tubers until flower buds
form. Cultivate more and water less. If ex-
tremely dry weather compels watering, use a pail.
Pour the water gently and directly to the roots,
covering. next day with dry earth. Then keep
on cultivating to conserve this moisture. No
good blooms ever came from a baked soil.
No use in planting the entire old root; but divide to get an eye
to each piece
One caution:—Care must be exercised not to
break or injure the bottom leaves of the Dahlia.
They serve a two-fold use in the plant’s econ-
omy—shading the ground, thus keeping the soil
mellow and, last but not least, upon the vigor of
the large bottom leaves depends the vitality of
the tubers forming under ground.
CRITICAL period arrives with the forma-
tion of flower buds. Cultivation must
now be shallow to prevent injury to the tiny feed-
ing rootlets. This also is the proper time to
fertilize if the soil is lacking in strength. That
good all-around fertilizer, well rotted manure,
will serve both as a mulch and a plant food.
Then, too, this is the period of disbudding.
Strong growing Dahlias usually form flower buds
in clusters of three, one large and two small side
ones. Remove all but one—the most perfect
one. Not always is the largest bud the most
perfect, owing to the depredations of sucking
insects, but only one bud should grow to a leading
shoot. Disbudding also includes the removal of
two or three pairs of the tiny laterals just starting
at this time below the flower buds. Left to grow
they would choke the newly forming flower.
Removing these tiny laterals gives a good flower
stem so much desired for decorative purposes.
If one would keep plants blooming, flowers
should not be permitted to wither on the bush,
nip them off. The more blooms cut, the more
will form. However, this rule does not apply to
foliage if the most vigorous tubers are desired for
another year. Indeed, personal experience is that
severe cutting back to force new growth is done
at the expense of the vitality of the roots.
Don’t dig Dahlias at the first light frost. Wait
65
to your
Flowers for the Million Indeed, but Often Fussed Over Too Much for Their Good—Simple Ways of Successful Culture
until a killing frost arrives. Even then no need
for hurry. Allow a few days for the bulbs to cure
properly and dig carefully on a dry day. Permit
some soil to adhere to the crown to prevent the
heavy tubers from breaking off. Partially dry
and store in a cellar protected from both frost
and furnace heat. Both are fatal. Boxes or
barrels lined with paper make good receptacles.
As to varieties
—aim to retain
only healthy
growers
and free
bloom-
ers a-
dapted
Put thus into a pot the cuttings
root quickly and started in frames
are ready to put out as growing
plants _ ;
locali-
ty. Dis-
Ca ral
those
which
after two ofr
three years’
trial -prove
unsatisfactory.
You will find a
better one of
the same type
and color, for
at present the
Dahlia is in
active, am al-
most tempted
to say violent,
state of evolu-
tion. New varieties
succeed the old shy
bloomers and with
better flowers. Not
allnewintroductions,
however, are the
models of perfection
they are claimed to be, yet the general trend is
toward great improvement. What types do you
admire? What is your favorite color? Tell your
favorite Dahlia specialist. It’s a part of his bus-
iness to please you; and he is an enthusiast too!
One failure should not discourage, because it
requires skill, care, and plenty of work to produce
quality Dahlia blooms. Their production is a
most fascinating hobby.
In a narrow border with some shelter behind the Dahlias fine
blooms glow forth in their glory
Titan doth by his presence now revive
Things Sensible, as well as vegitive.
Old Kalendarium Rusticum
**A Little Madness in the Spring”’
How difficult it is for us, the Things Sensible
of the old couplet, not to take leave of our senses
these first spring days, and rush about doing all
sorts of inexpedient things in the garden. A
divine intimation has reached us and we are afire
with zeal and enthusiasm. Every shining, melting
day spells the whole of spring for us, and years of
bitter experience have not taught us that bluster-
ing, ingratiating, willful March smiles only on
one side of his face and that, like as not, just when
we have turned back the winter blankets from
the plants, will loose all the furies upon their de-
fenceless heads, and heart-breaking things will
ensue.
Many, many years I was in learning to let these
first genial days pass without touching the winter
covering, and then to remove it by degrees, not
all at once. To take it all off immediately is
bad for all the plants, but particularly harmful
to such as Geums, Silenes, Canterbury Bells and
Foxgloves that keep a tuft of leaves above ground
during the winter. These, though they may have
weathered a hard winter, will frequently be killed
outright by the late spring frosts if the protecting
straw or leaves be removed too early. ‘Then, too,
we do not wish to encourage such thoughtless,
headlong things as Crown Imperials and Lilium
Hansoni to come hurtling forth into the frosty
air swift to their undoing, and this they will most
certainly do if the sun gets but half a chance at
the earth above their heads.
But there are out-door things we may do with
entire propriety, to work off this fever of im-
patience that possesses us. I always plant
Poppy seed in March if it is possible to find a
patch of ground dry enough not to cake. March-
sown Poppies are always a success; they are grate-
ful for the opportunity given them to get their
roots deep down into the ground before the arrival
of hot suns and drought, and they then give their
minds wholly to the fashioning of their lovely
finery. I have a theory too, handed on to me
many years ago by a famous old lady gardener,
that no day is so felicitous for planting Sweet
Peas as St. Patrick’s day. I do not know if Erin’s
saint is pleased to have his day thus commem-
orated and casts a kindly eye upon the operation,
but certainly the result would seem to justify
some such notion.
Of course the frames are being attended to this
month and when the annuals are being sown tuck
in a row or two of annual Wallflowers, the kind
known as Paris Extra Early. These will bloom
all through the late summer and autumn, right
up to Thanksgiving in my New York garden, and
nothing is sweeter or prettier for bouquets.
But perhaps the most entirely delightful oc-
cupation for the present is just poking about. I[
love to take a stick and go about turning back the
strawy stuff to see if all is safe, stirring up the
Bergamot and Thyme and Marjoram to give me
a sweet greeting, and noting how many sturdy
little seedlings there are all green and animated
and ready for anything. Then there are all the
little green points coming up everywhere. We
know which ones portend Daffodils, which Tulips
a
and which Crocuses; and there, in a warm corner,
are the narrow dark green blades, quite tall by
now, out of whose midst will presently flutter
brilliant purple and gold blossoms, violet scented
(Iris reticulata). And of course any day in March
one’s poking may be rewarded by a find of Snow-
drops, Scillas, Snow Glories, Winter Aconites,
Hepaticas, Horned Pansies, and already there are
Ladies’ Delights, alert and peering, in every shel-
tered corner.
An Appropriate Peace Tree
While this beautiful idea of planting Peace
Trees is being discussed, I want to say a word in
praise of the Tupelo, or Sour Gum (Nyssa syl-
vatica), and suggest that some of us choose it
to commemorate the great occasion. When well
grown it is a beautiful and distinct tree, but the
chief reason that it appeals to me for this high
use is, that of all American trees it is the most
magnificent and triumphant in its autumn
coloring. Year after year it would flash forth
like a great beacon fire to celebrate anew the
coming of peace to the world, and no one with
eyes in his head could remain unmindful of its
meaning.
In time the Tupelo may reach a height of eighty
or even a hundred feet. In winter it is partic-
ularly noticeable on account of its curiously
directed branches, slightly drooping and those at
the top very twiggy or twisted. In summer its
long, lustrous leaves give it a fine appearance and
it bears also fairly conspicuous clusters of dark
colored, oval fruit.
By preference it grows in swampy places or
along streamsides and while it is not very set in
this matter, if we have such a position to offer it,
so much the better. On account of its long roots
with few rootlets, the Tupelo is a difficult tree
to transplant, and even when procured from a
nursery (where presumably it has experienced
frequent transplanting) small specimens make
the safest investment. The “Standard Cyclo-
pedia of Horticulture” states that the Tupelo is
hardy and at home from Maine and Ontario to
Michigan, to Florida and Texas. Some young
specimens that I set out a few years ago along the
edge of a wood have grown well and are already
making themselves felt in the autumn pageant.
The World’s Best for American Gardens
After reading Mr. Farrington’s article last
month I was not a little chagrined to realize that,
though I have considered my acquaintance among
trees fairly wide, I knew only one of the kinds he
mentions. And the fact that there are four flour-
ishing specimens of that one growing in my garden
does not do much to lessen the feeling that where
trees are concerned ] have been woefully non-
experimental and incurious. I have an idea that
this tree-ignorance is not confined to myself, even
that it is quite common; that though we are
quickly receptive toward new plants and are
growing more so toward shrubs, when it comes to
planting a thing so permanent as a tree our im-
pulse is to choose one that we know all about.
But this is not the path of progress; and here in
America where the long sunny autumns are par-
ticularly favorable to the thorough ripening of the
wood of trees and shrubs, we should take advan-
tage of this special beneficence of Nature in our
favor and grow many more trees and shrubs than
we do.
The one tree mentioned by Mr. Farrington that
I possess is Malus floribunda. It is a most beau-
tiful and graceful tree, and does not grow so large
but that it may be used in quite small gardens.
66
ROUGH, THE GARDEN GATE
Author of: Sarre and Cofoar indy Garden”
Wilder
Here it grows right in the flower borders where it
rovides a light shade for such plants as desire it.
t looks well all the year but in early May when
its slightly drooping branches wreathed in de-
lightful color are spread above colonies of pink
and white and cherry-colored Tulips and clumps
of Florentine Iris, I think there is nothing quite
to equal it. Very small specimens bloom gen-
rae so that it is a pleasure from the very
rst.
Look Out for the Sleepy-Heads
Every year many hardy plants and bulbs
are destroyed or seriously injured by the impetu-
ous digging that goes on in the beds and borders
as soon as the frost is out of the ground. Now
it should be remembered that there are late as
well as early risers among our plants; and while
some early bestir themselves, sending forth a
little green or red point or a leaf or two, others go
right on snoozing as if it were still midwinter
and make no sign at all to apprize us of their
whereabouts.
A nurseryman told me that certain hardy
plants are particularly profitable to the trade,
not only because of their popularity but because
they are yearly destroyed in the spring digging
and must so be constantly replaced. It is im-
possible to remember the exact location of every
plant in a garden of any size and it would be too
unbeautiful to have the whole place stuck all over
with warning labels. But it is possible to carry
on our spring garden work with more caution;
we may work off our winter-stored energies in the
vegetable garden where there are no sleepy heads
to be murdered in their beds. It is a painful
experience, indeed, to find that we have sliced
through a beautiful pearly Lily bulb or torn to
shreads a clump of Japanese Anemones. Many
of these late risers sleep so soundly that they show
no signs of life at all and are often dug up and
thrown away for dead, when all they wanted was
to have their sleep out and in a little while would
have been as green and gay as any.
Here is a list of such plants from my own gar-
den—I should like to have it added to from the
experience of others: Blue Spiraea (Caryopteris
Mastacanthus or incana), Japanese Anemone,
False Indigo (Baptisia australis), Desmodium
penduliflorum, Chinese Bellflower (Platycodon),
Salvia azurea, Campanula lactiflora, Scilla cam-
panulata, Lathyrus tuberosus, Plumbago, Lilium
speciosum, Hibiscus Moscheutos, Scutellaria
baicalensis, Eupatorium coelestinum.
[What can you add te that list for the bene-
fit of the Garden Neighbors'—£d.|
A Nice Little Trailer
~ The trailing Soapwort, Saponaria ocymoides,
is not nearly so well known as it deserves to be.
It is a willing and lovely plant for rock gardeners
and is just as kindly disposed toward those
who have nothing to offer it save the edge of a
well-drained flower border. It is easily raised
from seed, but in a batch of seedlings there is
usually a good deal of choice as the flowers
of some will be much brighter and purer than
others. There is a white form that is pretty,
but much less gay than the type. A ten cent
packet of seed if sown in a prepared seed bed or
pan will result in dozens of nice little plants
with which to set a border edge in company of
such other small folk as Arabis, creeping
Phloxes, dwarf Irises, trailing Gypsophilas and
Veronicas. If comfortable the little plants
will spread into broad leafy mats full eighteen
inches across that in late May, and for a long
time thereafter, will be almost completely hidden
by the many loose cymes of small bright pink
blossoms.
Using Glass for Early Flowers and Vegetables +. suzwarp
tions for the making of the hotbed to be
| ready for use earlyin March. In that place
also, page 162, may be found the general
routine instructions for the handling of seeds and
seedlings. At this time it will be necessary only
to make reference to the handling of particular
I: THE January magazine we gave instruc-
crops.
Although the hotbed may be used to a certain
extent as a substitute for a greenhouse, it is of
course available only on a much smaller scale.
The greenhouse itself offers many more con-
veniences; and, where it is not entirely devoted
to the cultivation of ornamental plants and
flowers, it can be made useful in supplying the
outdoor garden with plants for early use. In the
space below the benches the owner can force
rhubarb, asparagus, and seakale by. the simple
expedient of digging up clumps from the garden
and putting them into the warmer condition
under the benches. On the benches themselves,
various vegetables may be grown to perfection—
tomatoes, beans, lettuce, cucumbers, cauliflower,
radishes, etc.
GETTING RESULTS IN A GREENHOUSE
RENCG beans in pots. Sow three to five beans
in a four inch pot (Fig. 17) and pot into eight
inch pots when the first rough leaf forms, using a
mixed soil—one-half loam, one-half well rotted
manure or leaf mould, and some bone meal
added. Water well and when the beans have
formed (Fig. 18) use weak manure water.
Seakale, rhubarb, and asparagus. Stand these
under the benches and cover with a few inches of
soil or sand and keep well watered. Hang sack-
ing in front (Figs. 7 andg). In forcing asparagus
use strong roots (Fig. 5), small ones (Fig. 4) will
not force well.
Strawberries. For forcing these are layered
into three inch pots in August (Fig. 10) and potted
on into six inch pots, using well rotted manure
and plain loam. Firm potting is_ essential.
Force these in batches and stand on the shelves
near the glass in pans of water (Fig. 11 and
Fig. 12). Use manure water when the berries
have formed. Good varieties for forcing are
usually of the European type of berry.
Potatoes 1n pots offer quite a delicacy. Use
twelve inch pots, half filling them with soil-and
plant one potato in each pot. Use a light rich
soil such as very old hotbed soil broken up and
passed through a one-quarter inch sieve. Choose
an early variety and start the tubers in a box with
some sand in the bottom (Fig 13) and place near
the glass on a shelf. When they have just started
(Fig. 14) they are ready for potting. Do not use
drawn and weak specimens (Fig. 15). Fill the
pots to within two inches of the top with soil
when the potatoes are growing well and keep well
watered.
POSSIBILITIES OF A HOTBED
VV HEN forcing in a hotbed cover the sash
with mats or sacking to keep the frame
dark. To make a hotbed use one load of fresh
stable manure to each sash desired. Shake it
up well and pile three feet high and one foot wider
than the frame on each side. If the sash used is
six by three feet, the bed would be eight by five.
Pack it well by treading and ramming; and stand
the frame on top. Over the manure put three
inches of soil or sand.
Seakale roots may be purchase from thle seed
store. Force by making a bank of soil at the back
=
es B
———e
; ORS ural
COS TTT TM ws
of the frame and Jay the roots in a slanting direc-
tion six inches apart, add more soil and make
another bank about six inches from the first, lay-
ing the roots as before until the frame is full (Figs.
1 and 2). Lay the roots flat (Fig. 2) if more
convenient. Water the soil well and keep the
roots dark by laying sacks or boards on top.
Asparagus. Force asparagus by putting the
roots close together in the frame and covering
with a few inches of soil, or by putting the roots
in boxes (Fig. 3). Put them in the frame as
required and keep well watered.
Rhubarb and seakale can be forced by covering
the roots with a box or barrel; and then covering
with manure and leaves (Fig. 8). Another way
to force seakale, asparagus or rhubarb is by digging
a pit about two and one-half or three feet deep
and putting the roots in the bottom. Lay planks
over the top of the pit and place manure on top
(Fig. 6).
Potatoes. Start the tubers in boxes and plant
into the hotbed about one foot apart. In plant-
ing these put three inches of soil (old hotbed
manure if possible) over the manure, then plant
out the potatoes one foot apart each way and
cover with another six inches of soil and level
(Fig. 16) Sow radishes over the potatoes for a
catch crop. Let in plenty of air on warm days
and close the frames about three o'clock in the
afternoon. Keep well watered. y
Violets. \f runners are taken in the spring
(Fig. 20) and planted in good well manured gar-
den soil, strong clumps will be ready for forcing
in the fall, and grown in frames will flower all
winter. Make up a hotbed as described above
and put on six inches of soil, planting the clumps
about one foot apart (Fig. 19). Water well and
keep the frames well aired on warm days.
o
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Gardens and a Few Flowers «a.1. may
With a Few Casual Peeps into Some Other Peoples’ Places From Which We May Take Inspiration to Go and Do Likewise
IS garden is the
primal, necessary
expression of the
best that is in
man, and after he has
achieved success in poetry,
painting, sculpture, archi-
tecture, or music, he turns
and subordinates them to
his passion for gardening.
Though each race has de-
veloped and built up a gar-
den style of its own the
American garden, as such,
is stillin the making. What
it will be depends on what
we become, but just at pre-
sent it is the “Old-fashioned
Garden” that comes nearest
to the American ideal: prim
walks that run in straight
lines, tiled, cobbled, or grass
trimmed—the stern recti-
tude of New England as our
grandmothers held it up to
us in their day; quaint,
practical sun-dials to mark
the hours of eternity, and
the fleeting, evanescent beauties of a season that
bloom and fade only too quickly. That is the
combination that speaks for American character
as our forefathers made it.
There is something about the Old-fashioned
Garden, too, that other gardens do not seem to
have—the suggestion of permanence, of length
of days and generations of men. Hardy peren-
nials are suitable to the permanent character
of the Old-fashioned Garden, but the annuals
that our grandmothers loved, belong there too.
The Informal Garden is much easier of achieve-
ment and allows a greater latitude of treatment
than does the Period Garden no matter what
period it is taken from. One delightful arrange-
ment Is to mass the flowers around the sides of the
lawn leaving a smooth greensward as a centre.
Make a background of shrubs and trees or hedge,
and, against this, lay in your colors: tall Holly-
hocks and Larkspur, masses of rosy Phlox and
Peonies, Lilies, Roses, bushed or trellised over a
rustic tea house, the delicate climbing old pink
Rose or the hardy Crimson Rambler that will
make a good showing the first year. Select
Does this hold any suggestion for you? Combination of outdoor
living and the intimate friendship of the rock garden
end is well placed in the composition
In this garden of formal geometric plan great masses of perennial plants give color in wide sheets. The sundial at one
your flowers with an eye to obtaining a succes-
sion of blossom during the entire season from Li-
lac and Snowball time to the autumn of the
native shrubby Asters and heavy-headed gor-
geous Dahlias.
Elaboration of detail, well kept walks and
trimmed hedges outlining flower beds of geo-
metric design mark the Formal Garden. Ar-
borvitae cut in quaint designs, a pergola covered
with Clematis, Wistaria, Crimson Rambler
Rose, or, maybe, Grape vines whose purple
clusters will be beautiful in the fall and follow
fittingly the tender green of the leaves, such a
pergola, flanked by a row of Lombardy Poplars,
carries out the Italian idea charmingly. Ar-
borvitae and dwarf Mugho Pine will simulate
admirably the topiary work so much in vogue
when English, French, and Italian gardens
reached the acme of their conventionality, and
lend themselves well to the sharp trimming so
necessary to develop these odd shapes.
The Sunken Garden partakes of all the beauties
of the formal style and is extremely effective
and delightful. Its peculiarity consists in the
fact that it is planted about two feet below the
level of the surrounding landscape and lies spread
out before one like a carpet or picture to be ad-
mired in its entirety at a glance.
The Japanese Garden brings with it the orien-
tal suggestion and its happiest setting is a
rockery where the green of conifers con-
trasts markedly with the gray background.
Specimen plantings of all kinds of evergreens
and flowering shrubs are delightful here: Dwarf
Barberry (Berberis Thunbergii), Weigela, Sy-
ringa, and especially Rosa rugosa give an excel-
lent effect. Peonies, Irises, Japanese Day
Lilies, Shasta Daisies, Asters, Dahlias, Japanese
Bell-flower, Poppies massed in beds, are the
flowers that will best carry out the oriental idea.
The vines that could be suggested for covering
tea houses and trellises are Wistaria, purple and
white, Japan Golden-leaved Honeysuckle, Kudzu
Vine, Rambler Rose, and Clematis paniculata
and Jackmanni. Japanese stone lanterns are
easily procurable and are a great addition to the
architecture of the garden.
ND now about perennials. These old-
fashioned favorites that come up year after
year and greet the spring with their bright,
familiar faces, like old friends seen again, are
not even yet appreciated at their full worth by
many gardeners. But it is the “old reliables”
68
that make the foundation
of the garden, the special-
ties are often as ornamental
but one cannot be as sure
of them, their qualities are
problematical. The ever-re-
curring harvest of beauty
that one is sure to cull from
a garden of perennials is a
satisfaction not to be de-
spised in the gardener’s cat-
egory of delights.
To secure a continuation
of bloom throughout the
season, from the time when
the last snows are melting in
the hollows until the first
snow glistens like jewels on
grass not yet turned brown,
is an ambition worthy the
gardener of perennials and
one that it is quite possible
for him to realize. The Epi-
‘gaea or Trailing Arbutus,
in some climates, is syn-
chronous with melting snow,
and the Trillium (perhaps
better known as Wake Robin
or Wood Lily) is apt to peep out between
the coverings of last year’s leaves. The Ane-
mone or Windflower is reputed to be above
ground in April but does not blossom until well
on into May. Lilies-of-the-valley send up their
slender bells in late May and early June and the
Irises, German and Japanese, more lovely than
Orchids with the richness and beauty of their
bloom, come out about the same time. Modern
Irises are indeed all that the most enthusiastic
dealer claims them to be. They are not only
hardy and easy to grow, but for opulence and
freedom of blossom are unexcelled. The curi-
ously curled and waved petals, the deep strong
shades of their coloring, purple, lavender and
blue, yellow and brown, or white, make them
wonderfully beautiful, while their dainty frag-
rance appeals to the olfactory sense and renders
their presence delightful. The character of
their growth is particularly adaptable to aquatic
situations, as outlining a pond or fountain.
Periwinkles and Pyrethrum come about that
time and then June is readv to break forth in her
If we would only learn to live inside our gardens and not mextiy
regard them as things apart to be merely looked at!
1919
Marcu,
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Happy combination of a well designed garden and vine entwined house. Yet the owner's love
for a variety of plants has ful! expression
bw
full panoply of blossom. Excepting -
the Roses, perhaps the most gor-
geous of the summer flowers are the
Peonies, and crimson, pink, or white,
their heavy heads are showy in any
corner. After the Peonies, the Phloxes
begin to bloom and continue until
after frost with a sturdiness not to
be demanded of their loveliness and
delicacy.
Hollyhocks, with huge rosettes nest-
ling against their stems, tower against
a wall or hedge, and the tall blue
Larkspur makes a pleasing contrast
near them. Foxglove (Digitalis) is
another tall plant that is very effec-
tive at this season and Rudbeckia
Golden Glow covers itself with flowers
like Chrysanthemums. Columbine
(Aquelegia) is a dainty bush of inter-
mediate size that puts forth purple,
crimson, or white flowers, according
to variety, and the Hemerocallis or
Day Lily is very fragrant.
Among the lower-growing perennials
that bloom in June are the Dianthus
or Pink with its spicy fragrance, Eng-
lish Daisy, Scabiosa, Cerastium (better
known as Snow-in-summer or Snow-
on-the-mountain), blue Flax (Linum
The antithesis of a sunken garden is this on a rock ron J
solved by a series of walled terraces retaining soil
Let massing in large groups or clumps be the governing law of the mixed border. Phlox
and Larkspur dominant here
ledge rising from the shore—The problem is
Strong in its simple severity—a gardener’s garden where the plant is the first consideration. For-
mality only in the grass edged walk
perenne), Oriental Poppy, and the
ever lovely Forget-me-not.
July ushers in the Cephalaria, Cam-
panula or Canterbury Bells, Coreopsis
with its red and yellow blossoms,
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia), feathery
Gypsophila known to poets as Angel’s
Breath or Baby’s Breath, Balloon
Flower (Platycodon) with blossoms
like tiny blue and white Chinese lan-
terns and last of all, Shrubby Clematis
which means that August is due and
with it the Gentians, Mallow (Hibis-
cus) and the Sweet Lavender, while the
Asters (Michaelmas and others), with
Boltonia begin blooming gaily and pur-
posefully that the summer may go out
in a blaze of glory. Hardy Pompon
Chrysanthemums and Chrysanthe-.
mum maximum do their best now and
will give bright blossoms for the au-
tumn bouquet.
These are just a few of the better
known perennials, and there are many
others that lend themselves with equal
felicity to the garden scheme. Try
them, plant them freely this spring and
they will richly reward your efforts
this year and be lovelier than ever
next year.
The charm of the sunken garden lies largely in the fact that it is framed. Treatment of the detail
is a matter of fancy. Box edgings here
PLANTING GUIDE FORTHE -PRACTICAL
GARDENER
Compiled by E. L. D. SEYMOUR
'
A tabloid presentation of the basic facts that concern the several departments of the garden, from soil preparation to ornamental
What is Your Soil Problem?
The first step in all planting programmes is to put
the soil in the best possible condition. Here are the
needs of some common types of garden soil—especially
as they are found around newly built homes where
garden making Is being started at the very bottom:
1. Sandy soil. Add humus in the form of farm
manures, cover crops, muck from a swamp, or any
available form of commercial humus preparation.
Dress with lime. Keep a cover crop growing on it
over winter, plowing or spading up only in time for
spring planting. Reinforce with quick acting fertilizers
after the crops are actually under way. Potash is often
especially needed. Such a soil is early, easy to work,
well drained (sometimes too much so), and especially
suited to heat-loving crops such as beans, tomatoes
squash, melons, okra, peanuts, etc.
2. Clay soil. Tile drain. Lighten by adding and
working in sand, sifted coal ashes and stable or green
manures and cover crops. Plow or spade up late in
the fall and, if the land is not sloping, leave in that
tough condition over winter so that the frost action
may help break it down. Lime generously immediately
after plowing. Never plow, cultivate or work in any
way when wet. Clay soils are usually rich, retentive
of moisture and plant food and consequently well suited
to the needs of pears, quinces, plums, grass, rhubarb,
cabbage, and other heavy feeders.
3. Shallow soil. This may be the result of careless,
lazy handling—that is, shallow cultivation year after
year and the development of a sort of artificial subsoil
level. In such a case plow or dig a little deeper each
time, so as gradually to increase the top soil without
bringing up too much subsoil all at once. If due to
hardpan—an underlying layer of impervious clay or
cemented gravelly soil—consult a local blasting au-
thority as to the possibility of breaking up the hardpan
with dynamite. Where a rock ledge comes close to the
surface, the only thing to dois to bring in more good soil
and “deepen it upwards.”
4. Gravelly soil. Gradually remove large stones
as they come to the surface, using them to build walks
and fill in holes and ditches. Treat for any condition
already mentioned according as the soil itself tends
toward asand oraclay. A gravelly soil is usually well
drained and not deficient in lime. Apples, small fruits,
shrubs and vegetables of which the roots are not har-
vested and which, like beets, carrats, parsnips, etc., do
ot insist on a deep, loose soil, do well on gravelly loam
if it is supplied with plant food in sufficient quantities
and is not too dry.
5.. Muck soil. Being almost invariably sour, and
usually wet, this type for ordinary gardening purposes
calls first for drainage and liming. However for some
plants, including Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Ferns, Blue-
berry and spinach—its acidity is a desirable, even an
essential quality. It is generally lacking in potash and
sometimes in available nitrogen. Its strong point is,
of course, its abundant supply of humus or decomposed
organic matter which serves as a sponge to hold mois-
ture, as well as a reserve supply of nitrogen for future
use. When drained, muck soils are excellent for as-
paragus, lettuce, onions and other crops that are best
if forced to rapid, succulent growth by the use of fer-
tilizers.
6. Loam. This is the ideal general purpose garden
soil, combining in its best form good depth, good drain-
age, good moisture holding capacity, easy working
qualities, freedom from a tendency to puddle and be-
come useless if worked when
a little too wet, a rapid
SOIL warming up early in the
spring, and moderate to high
fertility. For vegetable
growing it can well be a
little on the sandy side; for
fruits and ornamentals, es-
pecially perennials, it is bet-
ter if inclined toward the
silt or clay side. Of course
it must be maintained in
good tilth and fertility by
judicious feeding, liming
ARDPAN
A Simple hardpan forma-
tion that can be improved by
blasting.
planting
“Still planting—delightful toil! . . . Surely
one never fulfils his destiny of mirroring the image of
the Creator more truly than in the spring. _For—re-
member—the Lord first made the Garden of Eden and
then created man, giving him as his prime obligation,
if we believe the Scripture, ‘to dress it and to keep
it.’ ’’—Agnes Edwards
every few years, and the turning under once a year
or so of a cover crop or heavy application of ma-
nure. Tile drainage renders it even more reliable as
regards moisture supply. If legumes are to be grown—
clovers, beans, peas, etc.—it should be inoculated with
nitrogen -gathering bacteria, either by adding a little
soil from a field in which sucha crop thrives, or by
treating the seed at planting time with a commercial
culture preparation.
Fertilizer Facts for the Soil Builder
A rule for fertilizing the garden: Most directions for
the feeding of crops are given in terms of pounds per
acre. To adapt these to the restricted limits of the
garden, allow one third of an ounce per square yard for
each one hundred pounds advised per acre. For instance:
REaTIoNn oF LimE TO THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE SOIL
ALKALINE ACID
CORN
——— —S
OaTs
PSUS SE
= emo
Sh
Tae Recon eee = al
BUWEGRASS
ALSIKE CLOVER
REO |CLOVER
ALFALFA
i ae aL ane
SRS ae
COWPEA
GAROEN |PEA
WHITE BEAN
a N CABEAC CaS gece
eccr
= TCA LONE
SEA CANA aS: ae
TOMATO
HORSE JSORREL
WHITE DAISY
PAINTBRUSH
SL en
RASPBERRY
STRAWBCARY
BlweecRAr
a
APPLC
<_< ——____
PEACH
ee SS ————————
CHERRY
RHODOOENDRON
ROSE
Swecr |PEA
FERN
OLSIRAGLE DECAY ORGANISMS
NITROGEN-FIXING ORGANISMS
NITRIFYING [ORGANISMS
POTATO SCAB ORGANISM
CLUBROOT ORGANISM
Ee
The extension of the lines for the different plants on either
side of the neutral division indicates the probable range of
tolerance of that plant for bases and acids.
If your experiment station says that potatoes in your
vicinity require 1,400 pounds of mixed fertilizer per
acre, and you are going to plant a piece 20 x 40 to that
crop, you will want to use 14 x 4=4% ounces per square
yard, or, for the whole plot, 20 x 40=800, or say, for 88
sq. yards about 254 pounds of fertilizer.
In the case of manure, it is practically impossible to
use too much, and unnecessary to figure out to the
pound how much you will actually need. Moreover
it varies in weight according to the moisture and uns
rotted bedding that it contains. On the average soil a
dressing three or four inches thick would be none to
much, provided it is well rotted, and thoroughly mixed
with the soil. Ifit is desired to use a rule on the square
yard basis, allow 5 pounds per square yard, for every
10 tons advised per acre.
The value of manure results from its containing some
of the three essential plant foods, as well as its ability
to improve the texture of soil by adding humus, and to
prevent the growth of the potato scab organism. Re-
7O
peated applications tend to cause acidity and should
be accompanied by applications of lime.
Never mix lime and manure, or lime and any other
fertilizer containing nitrogen or the contact will result
in wasted nitrogen. The only safe practice is first to
dig or plow in the manure, then spread and harrow
in the lime. This caution applies also to the use of
any material relatively rich in lime, such as wood ashes,
bone meal, or ground shells. :
In the small garden the main reliance should be
placed on manure and lime. If their use can be sup-
plemented by a moderate application of a ready mixed
fertilizer just before planting time, and an occasional
dose of nitrate of soda for the growing leaf crops later
on, the problem of keeping the soil fertile will be prac-
tically solved.
Planting Tools and Tips
Before planting time comes around have on hand,
and in good, rusiless condition, these tools:
Spade These should not be of the cheap socket variety,
SpadingFork but should have extensions of the shank up the front
and back of the handle and riveted to it.
Spade Hoe For planting nothing is of more all-round use
than the regular old fashioned type. ~The modern
heart-shaped hoe is good for opening and cover-
ing drills, and later in the season the fat scufle
types are admirable cultivators.
Steel Rake It is well to select one no wider than the space
between the closest rows in your garden, or else to
have two or more of different widths.
Planting Line
Accuracy and uniformity in planting pay dividends
and Stakes.
all summer.
Trowel Some prefer the long, narrow “slim Jim,”
others the broader regular type, still others the
small, flat mason’s trowel. Probably any of these
will serve until you find out just what you do most
and what you need for that sort of work.
The above tools are essential. If, or when, possible,
add to the list a wheel-hoe for making and covering
drills and later for cultivating; a wheel-barrow; a hose
(or at least a watering pot); extra trowels and hoes of
different shapes as suggested above; and a planting
board (see page 75). If your vegetable rows are going
to be 100 feet or more in length a seeder attachment
for the wheel-hoe will be a great time and back saver.
Tip. 1. Never buy cheap tools. Select them carefully as to
weight, length of handle and adaptability to your strength, height
and mode of working, but in every case see that they are strong,
solid and of the best quality.
Tip 2. In turning over light, sandy soil use a spade: in working
on heavy clay and in turning under a heavy dressing of manure, use
a spading fork.
Tip 3. Never prepare a larger area than you can plant the same
day. Ifyou haye your garden plowed, leave it unharrowed and pre-
pare a seed bed for each crop with a rake when you are ready to
plant it. Otherwise rain on a smoothly raked surface will compact
it and require a second plowing or spading before it can be planted.
Tip 4. In spading up a plot, first open a trench across one end,
piling the soil at one side. Then invert the next adjacent foot of
soil into this trench, burying all manure and litter carefully and thor-
oughly. Continue in this way across the plot until a trench is
opened at the far end, then fill this with the manure and soil taken out
at first. For a particularly good job, and one of which the results
will last a number of years, such trenching should be done two
“spits” or spade blades deep, the lower layers being similarly moved
successively to one side, inverted, and mixed with manure before
being covered with the upper spit from the next but one rank.
Tip 5. Apply manure before plowing or spading and turn it
under deeply; apply lime and slow-acting fertilizers on the freshly
plowed or dug soil, working them in with harrow or rake (lime is
best applied the fall before planting time); apply quick-acting fer-
tilizers and soil for inoculating purposes on the harrowed or partly
This of
raked seedbed, working it in with a final light raking.
course refers to those applications
made prior to planting when fur-
ther doses of fertilizer are often put
in the drill, or furrow, or sprinkled
alongside the newly set plants.
Tip 6. Turn under cover crops
before they become at all mature
or woody—when they are from
eight to ten inches tall is a good
rule.
Tip 7. In filling trenches after
tile draining, put the subsoil back
in the trench first, keeping the
good topsoil at the surface where
the roots of the young plants can
reach it. But in planting a tree,
put most of the topsoil in the
bottom of the hole around the
roots, mixing the remainder with
the subsoil and a little manure if
possible as the hole is filled.
wal
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
March, 1919
Practical Manual for the Annual Garden
What Annuals To Grow—And How
Strictly speaking annuals are those plants which
live, bloom and die all within one year. The gardener,
however, includes a few others which, though actually
longer lived, are treated on a single year basis and re-
planted each season, as for example, Salvia, Canna,
Dahlia (in the North), etc.
One classification of annuals gives three groups, as
follows:
1. Hardy—to be sown outdoors and either thinned to stand
the right distances apart, or transplanted while small. However,
of this class, do not transplant Poppies, Eschscholtzia, Bartonia,
Venus’-looking-glass, Lupine, Malope and Dwarf Convolvulus.
2. Half hardy sorts—to be sown in boxes in February or March
in the dwelling, or a hotbed, and set out when the weather becomes
warm. Some of these, notably Pansy, may be sown in the early fall
and wintered over in a well protected coldframe.
3. Tender annuals—to be sown in a greenhouse or conser=
yatory where the temperature can be controlled (60 to 70 degrees F.
is needed), and set out only when all danger of cold weather is posi-
tively past.
Annuals may also be: (1) continuous bloomers, which, like
Pansies, Bachelor’s Buttons, and Cosmos, continue in blossom for a
considerable period, providing the flowers are picked before they go
to seed; and (2) temporary bloomers, which make a vivid display then
rapidly die. The latter must be so arranged in the garden., and
sufficient plantings must be made that a succession may be assured.
Soil Preparation and Seed Sowing
Since annuals are for the most part shallow rooted,
and occupy the ground for only one season, it is not
necessary to trench or prepare the ground as deeply as
in planting perennials. It should, however, be spaded
up, well enriched, and limed, to a depth of a foot to a
foot and a half.
Few annuals are fastidious as to soil, except that it
should be neither permanently wet nor actually dry.
Any good warm garden loam with natural drainage, and
a good supply of humus is satisfactory; a light rather
sandy soil, however, tends to produce quicker results,
especially if reinforced with bone meal and quick acting
fertilizers. Sweet Peas and Pansies are somewhat ex-
ceptional in that they thrive on heavier, moister soils
than most others.
Prepare the ground at least a fortnight in advance
of planting time; then, just before planting, rake and
rerake the surface two or three inches until absolutely
mellow, level, and fine. This is especially necessary
when small seeds are to be sown directly outdoors.
But do not attempt either this final fitting or the ac-
tual planting if the soil 1s too moist to crumble.
Sowinc. Indoors, sprinkle the seed on the surface
of the soil and either press it into the soil with a board,
or sift a very little mixed
sand and leaf mold over
it. Outdoors, plant in shal-
low drills, the depth being JUNE
“I know the secrets of the seeds of flowers,
Hidden and warm with showers’’—Alice Meynell
the outdoor beds with small branches helps to prevent
evaporation and any disturbance of the soil.
TRANSPLANT or thin as soon as the seedlings can be
handled. In the first transplanting set them about
two inches apart each way; the next time, about four
inches; if there is time for a third transplanting, put the
Why transplant? To give room to
grow. Compare the left cluster with the
one and two time transplants
seedlings in small pots, and they will be much better
able to withstand the final setting out.
Two Good Rules
(1) Buy only the best seeds obtainable.
(2) Buy different colors separately, not in mixtures.
Why To Grow Annuals
There is no virtue and less satisfaction in merely
sowing seed and raising plants. There should be a
definite plan and purpose, an ideal, if you will, behind
every specimen. The grower of annuals, for example,
should know whether he is planting a certain variety—
(1) Because of the effect its blossoms will produce, either cut
and removed to the dwelling, or as a focal point in the garden pic-
ture; (2) because of the striking quality of the plant as a whole,
including both foliage, form and flower; or (3) because of the part
it is to play in making the mass effect of the garden display more per-
fect. Just as the faint note of a single instrument in a huge orches-
tra, although apparently submerged in the whole volume of sound,
is after all an essential feature of the orchestration, so a single plant
or group of plants may exist unobserved, although its removal would
destroy the pictorial harmony of the entire composition.
Where Annuals May Be Grown
The typical bedding plants—Coleus, Alternantheras,
Geraniums, etc., are annuals in practice, and this
group of plants as a whole is especially adapted to use
SURE-FIRE ANNUALS BY COLOR AND SEASON OF BLOOM
JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER ,
OCTOBER
in beds; but this is coming to mean something else than
the gaudy stars, crescents and various geometrical
patches that beautified (?) the lawns of many a home
not many years ago. Both in formal gardening and
in natural landscape work, the annual has its appointed
and important place.
The border is also a most appropriate place for an-
nuals even though the term has gradually come to sug-
gest perennials first of all. Here the low growing sorts
can well provide a soft edging between sturdy perennial
and smooth green turf, while Cosmos, Sweet Peas, Sun-
flowers and other vigorous growers may serve equally
well as a background for less lofty perennials of more
bushy habit.
A third place for the annual is the odd corner of the
garden where nothing else has yet been established—
the bit of fence over which perennial vines have yet to
climb, the old tool shed that is next year to be pulled
down, the bit of rocky ground that you are not ready
to put in plantable condition but that at present is an
eyesore. In such places vigorous, old fashioned, reli-
able annuals, like faithful servants of a past genera-
tion will ensconse themselves, fight off intruding
weeds, and unobtrusively beautify the scene as long as
they are called upon to do so.
But don’t scatter annuals or any other plants about
the lawn; keep them grouped and massed about a
central greensward.
When Using Annuals Remember
That the more brilliant the flower, the harder it is to combine it
with others.
(That you cannot expect the best early spring flowers from spring
sown annuals even if started under glass. Therefore rely on peren-
nials and spring flowering shrubs for the season’s first blossoms and
let the annuals play their part between July and October. They’ll
do it, never fear.
[That if you want plenty of cut flowers, raise annuals in rows like
vegetables, in a part of the garden where looks don’t count. In the
beds and borders leave the flowers as long as they remain beautiful.
qThat, although the majority of the common annuals are hardy and
will stand a good deal of rough treatment and survive even in un-
congenial surroundings, all of them, like all other plants, will gener-
ously repay care and attention.
[That the quicker a result is obtained, the less time it is likely
to last. Consequently, plan for a continual succession of short
lived blooming periods, rather than expect a single sowing of one
or two familiar annuals to keep the garden bright all summer.
{Sow seed thickly, and thin out later, before there is any danger of
overcrowding.
{To plant tall-growing sorts at the rear.
The Point of View
First, annuals may be grown conservatively, the
gardener making use simply of those kinds he is familiar
with, and merely rearrang-
ing them from season to
THROUGH LIGHT FRosT) © °©2SON-
CandytuFft (fall|sown) 2%
about four to five times
2 S = 2
the diameter of the seed. nice aa =a
In the case of the larger
and more hardy sorts that
can be sown very early, or
even in the fall, this guide
may be disregarded, Sweet
Peas being sown from four
inches in spring, to ten or
Second, they may be
grown experimentally;
that is the grower may set
out to familiarize himself
Balsam =—18"5| Centaurea —/8"; Cosmos-428% eae
Stock —18"; Straw flower =2"5|_
Nicotiana 4 3!
with many newsorts. This
can be done by ordering
from a seed catalogue al-
Cand t(spring sown) /2"
a Waters 2 =
Moontlower —0"
Phlox =/8"
phabetically, trying all the
A’s, then all the B’s, and
twelve inches deep in the
fall. Always firm the soil
soon. From the fruits of
such an experiment the
gardener can add almost
with a board (this is better
than by treading) as soon
as the seed is planted, and
before it 1s watered.
WaTERING. Indoors
spread a cloth over the
golde—/]8"
Amaranthus =3
Sunflower-3+58'
soiland sprinkle with water
until the soil is moist
throughout; or hold the
flat in a pan of water un-
til the soil is moistened
by capillary attraction.
l son) —/8"
|
alZam-—I/8"; Cosmos (early and late)-4'—8' et
Globe A aranth-|' ay oY a
Gilia-J2"; Sweet pea -3’
Pi CHi SRIE =/8"
Aster ~2'
M. igonelte-I:Portulaca-s+Zinniac] y
unlimited material to his
stock of suitable and use-
ful plants.
Third, he may grow an-
nuals in the spirit of scien-
tific investigation, setting
out totry every known and
available variety of one
species afteranother. Such
an activity can be not only
Outdoors sprinkle gently
so as not to wash the seeds
out. Covering the flats
with panes of glass, and
absorbingly interesting,
but also of great horti-
cultural value worth writ-
spring sown)=/8""
Beg Ee eating=2 2; Portulaca -8'
——— >
age ~2
Phd 8“; Pink (Chinese)=/2”
ing about in THE GARDEN
MaGazine.
-/8""Godetia =/"; Petunk.
i ck-2'; Zinn.
pet flower)2 tanta
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
March, 1919
Verified Guides for Vegetable Growers
“Again, in the little gardens .. .
the good vegetables have known no fear .. .
the spinach assumes a.lofty bearing, hastens to grow green nor takes the
smallest precautions; the garden bean opens its eyes of jet in its pale leaves and sees night fall unmoved; the fickle peas shoot and lengthenout .. .
as though June
had entered the farm-gate; the carrot blushes as it faces the light; the lettuce exerts itself to achieve a heart of gold wherein to lock the dews of morning and night.”’
Soil and Site
The best soil for the all-round vegetable garden
is a mellow, rich, sweet, well-drained sandy loam.
The best location is a southern exposure, slightly slop-
ing, protected on the north by a fence, building or
other Windbreak, and not shaded for the greater part
of the day.
Except where perennial crops—asparagus, rhubarb,
artichokes, etc.—are growing, sow the ground to a
cover crop each fall, fitting and seeding each part of
the plot as the final crop to be
grown there that season 1s har-
vested. In the spring cover
with well-rotted stable manure
(three 2-horse loads to a plot
40 x 40 ft. is none too much),
plow or spade up at least eight
inches deep, and apply a dress-
ing of ground limestone (3 lb.
per square yard) before harrow-
ing or raking.
Rake and thoroughly prepare
the seedbed for each crop as
time to plant it arrives. At
this time work in an applica-
tion of general mixed fertilizer
or, if you prefer to buy the in-
gredients and mix your own, a mixture carrying the fol-
lowing amounts of whichever constituents you can ob-
tain. (See next column.)
In fitting a seedbed with hand tools, dig deeply,
mix the manure in thoroughly, and rake repeatedly
until all the lumps are broken up, the surface made
level, and the soil fine and mellow.
Planning and Seed Ordering
Draw a plan of the space on paper, to scale and large
enough so you can write in the name, variety, planting
date and yield of each row. This will then supply
not only a guide but also a garden record on which to
base improvements for next year.
With the help of the table given on this page and your
knowledge of what you and your family like decide
how much of each vegetable you ought to grow. Allow
a little surplus for canning, drying and giving away,
but, on the other hand, avoid wastefulness.
It is not the amount produced in a garden that deter-
mines its value, but the amount that is really utilized.
Making the Plan
Include as many of the following principles and sug-
gestions as your conditions will permit:
1. Group all perennial crops or run them around the garden
so as to leave an unbroken expanse for the annual, quick-growing
sorts.
2. Arrange to grow everything in rows running the long way
of the garden if there is any great difference. However it is better
to run them north and south than east and west, and better across a
slope than up and downit. Combine these ideas if possible.
So far as possible keep together
plants requiring the same distance be-
tween rows, that is, lettuce, beets, car-
10. As soon as you have completed the plan, make out your
seed order and send it, at once, to an established, reliable seedsman.
When Actual Planting Begins
Lay out the rows in the garden accurately, with
line and measuring rod, in accordance with the plan.
Straight rows and orderliness look well, save time
and space, stimulate increased crops and pay well gener-
ally. Run the rows right up to the hedge or fence; don’t
waste space in corners, or anywhere else. Except on
low wet soil where the poor drainage cannot be cor-
rected, plant on a level surface and in furrows, not on
ridges. And in setting out plants from the hotbed or
coldframes, set them level or even in a slight depression,
me up in the air so the soil has to be mounded up around
them.
Rules of Depth in Seed Sowing
1. Plant deeper in light sandy soil than in heavy clays.
2. Plant deeper as the season advances and the soil moisture
tends to recede from the surface.
Firm the soil carefully and thoroughly after planting seed,
and the lighter it is the more it should be firmed in order that it may
convey moisture from below to the germinating seeds.
4. Asa general rule cover seeds with just enough soil to insure
their receiving moisture and to prevent their being dried out by the
sun, but not enough to prevent the tender shoots from reaching the
surface as the seeds germinate. Naturally the larger the seed, the
deeper it should be planted, except that peas should go fully as deep
How to Feed the Crops
a Q
ELEMENT OF re8 FERTILIZER TO a e Bae
PURCHASE a)
EOOD a uw a>! acre
an
Nitrate of soda _ | Foz 135 lbs
Nitrogen (N) 4 | or Sulphate of ammonia | 3% “ 110 “
or Dried blood F ee 220
or Stable manure 1 Ib. }4,500 “
Phosphoric acid 8 | Bone meal 1} 0z hiya)
2 O) or Dissolved bone ss 300 “
or Dissolved rock tee Ws
Potash (K, O) 10 | Muriate or sulphate of
potash hes 105 ““
or Kainit igre 450 “
or Wood ashes 33 “ |1,050 “
NORMAL SURFACE
40
Se as | es es ee
WATER TABLE
Level cultivation is better than hilling except on undrained
or wet lan
How Many to Supply—How Much to Sow
Maurice Maeterlinck.
as beans, and, if planted very early in the spring, or, as some plant
them in the fall, they should be covered from six to eight inches deep
and then mulched.
AVERAGE DEPTH TO SOW
One Quarter Incu or Less: Celeriac (4), Celery (4), Parsley
(4), Water cress (7g).
NE Harr Incu: Cabbage group, Carrot, Chicory, Dandelion,
Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Pepper, Turnip (4-3).
One Harr To One Inca: Corn salad, Upland cress, Eggplant,
Endive, Onion (seed), Parsnip, Radish, Rhubarb, Rutabaga, Salsify,
Tomato.
One To Two IncueEs: Globe artichoke, Asparagus (seed), Beans
(bush 4-2), Beets, Cardoon, Citron,
Corn, Cucumber, Melons, Spinach and
N. Z. spinach, Okra. Onion (sets),
Pumpkin and squash.
Two to TuHree Incnes: Jeru-
salem artichoke, Peas, Sweet potatoes,
Rhubarb (plants).
More Tuan Turee_ InNcuHEs:
Asparagus (plants 3-5), Horseradish
(roots 3-4), Irish potato (4).
Rules of Time in Planting
1. In following any published
table or guide find out for what
latitude and elevation it was planned,
then modify it to fit your locality by
4 days difference for each degree ef
latitude and each 400 feet elevation
by which you are separated from the
place where the table was made. In
other words, for every degree you are
south of that point, or every 400 feet
you are below it, advance your plant-
ing dates four days; and vice versa. _
2. In any case, try asmall planting of any crop you are par-
ticularly fond of about two weeks earlier than any guide or local
“authority” says is safe. .If it is caught by the frost, the loss of
seed and time is immaterial; if it escapes, you are the gainer by a
harvest days or even weeks ahead of your neighbors—not to mention
their envy and admiration. :
3. Plant the upper side or end of your garden, and the sections
where the lightest soils are, first. These are always the earliest
becoming warm and fit for planting first.
4. There are two classes of vegetables as to hardiness: (a)
those that are not injured but only retarded by cold weather and
that therefore may be planted as soon as the ground can be gotten
ready, with the knowledge that they will simply wait around until
the weather becomes suitable for their growth; and (b) those that are
seriously checked or even killed by cold and which are usually wasted
if planted before the soil has definitely warmed up. The important
members of these groups are:
HARDY SORTS
Plant in New York from March 15th to April goth. Average tem=
perature in shade 45 degrees F.)
Beet Cabbage Lettuce Peas
Carrot Cauliflower Onion Radish
Cress Endive - Parsnip Spinach
Celery Kale Parsley Turnip
TENDER SORTS
Plant in New York section from May 15th to June 15th or later.
Average temperature 60 degrees F’. in shade)
B Melons Pepper N. Z. spinach
Cant Eggplant Okra Pumpkin Squash
Cucumber Tomato
BY THE SEASON
Combining two short lived crops or an early short
lived one with a late slow growing
one, etc., often makes possible a
= le maximum use of the
rots, etc., spaced fifteen inches apart, = Sa an ss a very desiay er at t (0)
beans, chard, okra, etc., with 18 inches a > len on Zi 5 3 and. uc epends, of course,
between rows, and so on. “aS of aE APPROX. & ° ba A 2 on the climatic restrictions of
A. Keep tall-growing, bushy plants CROP Au | 24 | Bo | YIELDPER | && aa & 4 NOE the locality, but a. grouping of
at the north end of the rows where 24 Ss “| bE 30 FT. Be || 2 a g he aie bi A
they will shade the others the least. Pare | air val a=] o) = & < iE a EI t e dimerent vegeta es, accor -
5. Locate a hotbed at the north 2 Be Si < & uO oa < ing to the periods during which
side of the garden where it can he he land should b
protected by a fence or shed and re- . j 6 : ol Teaas cece anda ipedeled they occupy t oH n d be
ceive a full southern exposure. This Beans, Bush . . 5 4 23 6 GES h) 2 os Pp ae Wait fae Seay, Ilene aC helpful anywhere:
Reap, potting bench, water tap, rack fo ao |. |. - fp oto day interval, 1, Perennial, ocupying the same
cay BNE Saal a Hace ; 3 round for an entire year or more: i-
2 fece - “Pole s * 10 qts 60 30 pt. .25 | Less tender than bush sorts. g )
the hose, and any ether piece of pebmas ee Pole : sp a Ae 2 a aie Zo) | Allow 2 weeks betweenisowings choke, asparagus, horseradish, rhubarb,
mae pone rd a ae Cabbage 1p 18 2 15 heads 90 30 I pkt. .10 | Transplant twice. 5 and various herbs. ; '
wor Pree penticcia ntl eRe Carrot . 5) 2 1} 150 60 20 I OZ. 45 | Allow 3 weeks between sowings. 4 Panuals te, be Plante C8)
ning facilities select early varieties of Cauliflower 1p 18 2 15 heads 45 45 1 pkt. .20 | Start under glass. ise canny Ey Bee) 7 A let ; TRoue
f See net oo rs ae ots. etc Celery {je 5 3 50 stalks 90 45 1 pkt. 10 | Start first under glass second there in advance) and f wi on
siics crops a En ARAB AEDES, NE, - | in seed bed wei pense anes a aed sans (pele
aie ieee ate eK : = } ; 2 i Plant 4 seeds to hill. celeriac, celery (early crop), chi ‘
anti athe d - large 2 Ss *30 24 doz. ears 100 25 x pt. .40 ant 4 : ‘
panes ay anh rail pater ees Cee S to 3 a doz. 45 45 1 pkt. .05 | Wait for warm weather. cress, dandelion leek, onion (ceed) pars-
This will give a con inuous s i ee Reese: P Te Z 50 15 15 1 pkt. .10 | Start under glass; keep warm. nip, potato (early crop), pumpkin, ruta-
peat ea sil ad re aa aa Denice : PS 6 1} 50 heads 40 10 4 oz .20 SE cool and moist. baga, ealattyy late squash, New Zealand
arge, mature, y es. , ws ee es : 7 Tender spinach,
p ’t include c that require Okra , S 15 2 150 pods 60 60 I OZ. .10 , ; , : :
ae Aaa proparhontens rie avails Onion (set) P 2 tt 36 bunches 45 45 1 pt. -35 | Plant cathy Use while small. its Lone, season tors ae
able area, or that can be bought reason- (seed) . | Ss 14 1} 6-10 qts. 60 69 B OZ. +20 Give fine rich, soil. Il C b y ened ee either precede or
ably, and of excellent quality nearby, or Parsley eS 3 I} al 10 fe) 1 pkt. +05 Will not crane lene well. Palle i scaeelia fry item Be planted:
that are of doubtful hardiness in your Parsnip , 3 It 110 45 45 nO” 105, || Elantivery cathye S sh b B = 1 ts, cabbage
-ction. Watermelons, winter squash Peas S 2 24-4 | 15 qts 150 30 3 pts. 1.00 | Sow at 10 day intervals. Bush beans, Brussels sprouts, ‘ ge,
peaniite aareet SaraEDes and, in the very Pepper. P 24 24 80 30 30 1 pkt. 10 | Start under glass; keep warm. Srey (larel etop), corn, cue ege-
prevail garden, potatocs, corn and late Radish. S I 4 60 bunches 30 5 } 07. oe Plant) of so ee ea ome aH ona Spponiers Mehae can be
cas come into this cla Salsify . S 2 | 1t | 150 Asi 45) ||) froze lardy; plant early. . k s tha
4 tga A a cla tandard varie Saiiaen S 3 1 ae 60 30 } OZ. 10 | First sowing early spring, 2d grown as main crops in Fite or
ties; after Sea ceah Wedd abd GROG ; late summer. : FE catch crops nly ao ee’
rR pe can be given ee trials Squash (bush). S 36 3 75 30 pp 4 pie, 8 ae fe ; eae to a ae peas, radish, ko ' P,
; velties (winter) | 2 8 15 15 I pkt. . I ; ;
e hha pete a all the ground busy Tomato P 30 24 24 doz go | 90 1 pkt. .10 | Start under glass; transplant 3 ie Facey annuals tobe sown ae
; ; i twice. {
all the season. So managed a garden is f d inter for early spring use:
i 4 i 5 oz. I Sow part for summer, part for ground over winte y sp
a bec aves steak ote Padace Sy und 5 L J 14 eo ge oe 4 fete fall. 3 Corn salad, chicory, kale, parsley Eeeeee
BS he OE Scapa *=hills; t=thinto. if planted fresh).
*o say his proposition was. es Z
72
“a
call
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
March, 1919
Herbaceous Perennials and How to Plant Them
‘Use Perennials Because:
—(1) when once planted they are good for several
years of constantly increasing effectiveness.
—(2) when established, they are ready to grow with
the first mild days of spring and remain until the real
coming of winter, thus preventing unsightly bare
ground at both ends of the season.
—(3) they obviate the necessity of dressing and fit-
ting the ground oftener than once every three to six
years or more.
—(4) unlike shrubs, they do not increase in stature,
but can be counted on to give the same effect season
after season.
—(5) if well chosen they are hardy and appropriate
to the locality.
—(6) for those who have means but limited time and
gardening skill, they will give immediate results if
purchased and set out as grown plants; whereas, those
who must economize or who desire the satisfaction of
doing the work themselves, can obtain the same effects
in a year or two by raising the same plants from seed.
—(7) they offer a wealth and great variety of sizes,
forms, colors, and types of foliage, and provide suitable
material for all sorts of localities, soils, climates and
conditions.
Because they combine intrinsic merit as individuals
with special usefulness as material for mass or combin-
ation planting.
Tue Twetve Mosr Porputar Harpy HeEersaceous
PERENNIALS
(Compiled from information supplied by leading nurserymen)
Anemone Iris Rudbeckia Chrysanthemum
Hollyhock Peony Columbine Sunflower
Larkspur Phlox Poppy Snapdragon
What Are Herbaceous Perennials?
An herb is a plant which dies to the ground
each year. The garden materials known as herbaceous
perennials are, therefore, those herbs of which
the root parts live for a number of years. This
is necessarily a somewhat elastic definition, since an herb
may be hardy as to its roots in one place, but tender in
another. The Dahlia and Canna, for instance are listed
as perennials for Georgia gardens, but are treated as
annuals in the North. Similarly the potato and the
tomato are perennials in South America, although
grown only as annual herbs in the United States.
Herbaceous perennials may be divided into groups as
follows:
1. [RUE HARDY HERBS, including those listed above,
Goldenrod, Sweet William, and many others.
2. Buss which may be left in the ground over
winter, as Daffodils, Crocus, Snowdrop, Tulip, Narcissus,
Day-lily, Trillium, etc.
3. Ferns (often considered wholly apart because
they are not flowering plants).
4. VINES, such as the Perennial Pea, the
Madeira-vine, Hops, and the Cinnamon-vine; a few
really evergreen forms, such as Periwinkle (Vinca)
are sometimes included here.
Where and How to Use Perennials
Any herbaceous perennial like a shrub or tree may
be used as an individual because of its beauty, useful-
ness or effectiveness, or as one of many units in a garden
: composition.
It may also be used for the sake $f its beauty as it
. grows, or as a source of cut flowers—just as annuals
are handled from these two points of view.
The two elements or phases of gardening for which
perennials are most valued are (a) the wild
or natural garden, and (b) the border. In either case,
grouped at the foot of or in front of larger growing
forms, or as a background for smaller species and types,
perennials are in their element, providing a maximum
of effect with a minimum of attention once they are
established.
In formal gardens the free growth and vigorous in-
dependence of herbaceous perennials place them some-
what at a disadvantage, but occasionally a definite
type such as Yucca filamentosa (Spanish Bayonet)
As the young seedlings develop transplant to give them
room. Strong growth in youth means vigor in maturity
“IT have been looking over my social register, de-
ciding whom I shall invite to my garden party next
year. . Of course I shall keep the perennials:
one always keeps them, unless they commit some un-
pardonable sin.’’—Agnes Edwards.
with its erect spike of bell shaped blooms and its stiff,
uninviting leaves, or a smooth rounded mass of solid
white or pink Phx will add just the needed emphasis
to bring out the uniformity and balance of the rest of
the planting.
Both alpine and rock gardens are the natural homes
for perennials, especially the low-growing, hardy,
drought resisting sorts. As these types of garden re-
ceive more attention in this country they should stim-
ulate a new interest in the lesser known perennials.
Water and bog gardens are also dependent largely
upon their expressions of undisturbed permanence for
their best effects, and no class of plants is better able
to create this impression than perennials.
Japanese gardens and other purely exotic types are
simply unique combinations of those already men-
tioned, and similarly combine the opportunities for
using perennials.
Perennials That Bloom the First Year From Seed
Sow under glass in March, in rows about 4 inches
apart, and cover lightly. Keep seed-bed shaded until
first leaves show above ground. When large enough
to handle transplant seedlings about two inches apart
each way. Harden off plants before planting in open.
HEIGHT IN TIME OF
FEET FLOWERING
Snapdragon. 1-3 July-August
Blue-flowered Cupid’ s-dart 2-3 June-August
Mouse-eared Chickweed . +4. All summer
Perennial Coreopsis I-2 August-frost
Larkspur as 4 April—September
Sweet William . i143 June-July
Scotch Pink . Te. May-June
Moldavian Balm Dee August-September
Blanket-flower . 2 Ps tape
Horned Poppy. . core uly—September
French Honeysuckle 2-4 August-September
Rocket . . 2-3 June-August
Sunset Hibiscus. 3-9 July—August
Man-of-the-earth . 2-12) . May-—September
Column flower . I-3 June—September
Flax I-2 July-August
Honesty. rae 14-24 May-June
Musk mallow 12 July-September
Red monkey-flower n=2) All summer
Monkey-flower. 1-3 All summer
Forget-me-not . %. May-June
Iceland Poppy I-15 May-October
Polyanthus . y. April
Silver Sage . 2s May-June
Sidalcea 1-6 August-September
Throatwort . rg August-September
Perennial Herbs—Fragrant—Attractive—Useful for Flavoring
and for Edging Paths
Balm of Gilead Lemon thyme Sage
Lavender Lavage Spearmint
Lavender cotton Mother of thyme Thyme
Lemon balm Rosemary Woodruff
Perennials With Fragrant Flowers—Season of Bloom
Set out plants now. But if you want any kind in
quantity sow a liberal second lot in summer, as soon as
ripe seed can be had for very early bloom next year,
except those marked *. Though Peonies are prefer-
ably set out in September still like the others they may
be handled clear through spring.
Winter Heliotrope . December—February
California and Russian Violets March
White Rock-cress epee te oe ApEL
Woodruff. MEMES Penn i 7h (oh te Mbay,
Lily-of- the-valley* Se a i bo Nay;
Peonies* June
Fraxinella* PE eas Fav ira cy =) une
GCAGSAValeianmeene, Gcugk «so jens
Lemon Lily* 2 ere eres fo aca) Ue
Dwarf orange Day-lily*. June
Garden Pinks 6 June
Fringed Pinks . Re ee ee Oly
SMVEEDIROCHECM sober) Ke ysis sl) Gs {iy
Bee Balm* ee eee IY Apist
Entire-leaved bush Clematis*. . . . . uly
August Lemon Lily* ENS August
White Day-lily*. August-September
-
. .« ,
A Succession of Perennials for All-Summer Color
Daffodils (yellow). German Iris (purple). Peonies
(rose and white). Oriental Poppies (scarlet). Jap-
anese Iris (white, pencilled with color). Day-lilies
(yellow). Monarda (r@d). Phlox (white). Rud-
beckia (yellow). New England Aster (purple).° Hardy
Chrysanthemum (various).
Perennials Essential to the Hardy Border
Foxglove, Peach-bell or Platycodon, Columbine,
Larkspur, Oriental Poppy, Grass Pink, Sweet William,
Peony, German Iris, Shasta Daisy, PHlox, hardy Chry-
santhemum, Hollyhock, Coreopsis, Gaillardia.
73
Planting Requirements for Pezennials
Tue Soin
This must be rich and deep. Since different specie »
of perennials have different preferences, it may vary in
type, degree of dryness, etc., to some extent.
Its preparation should Halil tile drainage at a depth’
of at least two and a half feet, unless the natural condi-
tions make standing water at or near the surface im-
possible.
It should be dug and enriched to a depth of at least
18 inches and two feet is far better, The best method
is to remove the first foot of soil, spade up the second
foot, adding well rotted cow manure, bone meal and
wood ashes (separately not mixed) and replace the top
soil adding to this also manure and -fertilizer. Of
course the requirements of the plants to be used must
be taken into account; in preparing for ferns, hedges,
and any of a number of acid-tolerant plants, any form
of lime or a lime carrying material such as bone meal
or wood ashes would be omitted, and the supply of
humus increased.
The surface soil should be so enriched with humus
as to prevent its subsequent baking. The average
planting of perennials cannot receive the frequent cul-
tivation given a vegetable garden, or even a rose bed,
This will give some suggestions for the mass effects to be
had by herbaceous plants in front of shrubbery
and precautions should therefore be taken to prevent
excessive evaporation and the choking of young plants.
Tue PLANTING
Buy, collect, or choose from your seedlings only the
healthiest, strongest plants. Plants that have been
checked by cold or severe drought, or that have recov-
ered from an attack of disease or an infestation of in-
sects, never produce maximum results; it is poor econ-
omy, even downright wastefulness, to use them.
Handle the plants carefully, being sure that their
roots do not dry out. Undoubtedly a plant will endure
a lot at the hands of.one of those geniuses who “have a
wonderful way with flowers’; but doubtless, too, the
less they have to endure, the more they can put into
vigorous growth and prolificacy.
In the case of seed sowing, plant as soon as the seed
is ripe, outdoors; and about eight weeks before the
plants can be set in the ground, under glass. Trans-
plant seedlings at least twice, the first time as soon
as they can be handled, the second time, when they
are about five inches ene
In setting out grown plants, whether bought from a
nurseryman or collected in the neighborhood, the best
time is while they are dormant and just before they start
into growth. As a general rule; transplant in late sum=
mer or early fall any plant that blooms before July;
invcaiaes in spring any plant that blooms in or after
uly.
But, with proper care, plenty of water available,
and proper’ attention thereafter, practically anything
can be moved at any time.
Plant thickly enough so that the foliage of the plants
when fully out will completely hide the ground. This
will eventually lead to crowding which must then be
corrected by lifting, dividing, and resetting the plants.
Arrange the planting, whether bed, border or back-
ground with a definite plan in mind, grouping certain
materials according to their form, foliage, color of
flower and season of blooming so as to give unity with-
out monotony, variety without chaos and lack of
cohesion.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
March, 1919
Orderly Planning for Ornamental Purposes
As Seen from Two Sides
In Ornamental planting the sole purpose is not yield
but effect. Moreover the effect to be a success must be
made in two directions at once; or rather it must be
successful when viewed from each of two standpoints,
namely, that of the owner and inhabitor of the garden,
and that of the observer and passer-by outside.
Considered From the Inside the Home Grounds Must:
1. Provide attractive pictures to be viewed from all important
windows, doors, and porches of the dwelling.
2. Provide suitable frames for all attractive vistas of both the
immediate and the distant landscapes.
3. Hide unattractive features of the environment.
4. Offer, enclose, and furnish an outdoor living room to be
used as a place for both recreation and enjoyable work as features of
the daily life of the family.
5. Reflect the personality of the owner as well as the
characteristics of the flora of the locality and the region in general.
6. Express privacy without snobbishness.
7. Give maximum results without necessitating care and ex-
pense out of proportion to the size of the place and its owner’s
means. 2
As Seen From the Outside, the Grounds Should:
1. Provide a suitable background, frame or setting in which
the house is the central picture or focus.
2. Provide an attractive, inviting approach to the “front,” or
most used, door.
3. Hide the less attractive and private features of the place,
such as the service yard, the kitchen entrance, and, usually, the
kitchen garden, the stable or garage, etc. On the other hand, a
well kept vegetable garden or the entrance door to the dairy of a
neat farm house with its equipment of bright, scoured milk pails,
etc., might sometimes prove a picture worthy of special framing so
as to be made especially noticeable from the road.
4. Soften harsh, straight lines, corners and foundations of the
dwelling, abrupt turns in paths and driveways, etc.
5. Express taste, unity, restraint, and appreciation of native
plants and varieties.
6. Be at all times neat and well-kept suggesting real interest
and constant attention on the part of those that live there.
ORNAMENTAL MATERIALS AND THEIR Uses
a. Trees.
(a) Shelter the house and garden from prevailing cold winds of
winter or hot, dry winds of summer,
4
“Who does his duty is a question
Too complex to be solved by me;
But he, I venture the sugégestion,
Does part of his that plants a tree.’’
—J. R. Lowell.
SELECTED SHRUBS FOR PERMANENT PLANTING
With large or fragrant flowers: Guclins Allspice, Golden
Currant, Elder, Lilac, Roses, Snowball, Flowering Al-
mond, Judas-tree, Spice- bush, Smoke-tree, Forsythia.
Weieela,
White Kerria, Spirea.
Evergreens: Juniper, Mountain Laurel,
dendron, Pieris floribunda.
With effective foliage: Thunberg’s Barberry, Burning-bush,
Strawberry-bush. Dwarf Sumac, Golden-leaved Elder.
berry, Flowering Raspberry.
With attractive bark or fruit in winter: Snowberry, Barberry,
Dogwood, Yellow-barked }Willow, Strawberry-bush,
Winterberry, Japanese Bramble, Bailey’s Osier, Kerria.
Suitable for seashores: Red Bearberry, Sand- cherry, Swal-
low-thorn, Tamarisk.
Suitable for cold places: Buttonbush, Daphne Mezerum, St.
John’s Wort, Sheepberry.
Suitable for wet soil: White Alder, Mountain Holly, Spice-
bush, Virginian Willow.
Suitable for heavy soil: Cinquefoi!, Lilac, Althea, Thorn.
Valuable recent introductions: Cotoneaster hupehensis:
multiflora, calocarpa, racemiflora, soongarica, and
nitens, Rosa Hugonis and R. Jackii, Syringa Swe-
ginzowil and S. reflexa, Diervilla florida venusta,
Prinsepia sinensis, Aesculus georgiana and Spiraea Veitchii.
Mockorange, Althea, Rosa rugosa, Oleaster,
Mahonia, Rhodo-
d. Flowering Plants in General.
Supply the jewels in the garden setting of lawn, shrubs, and
trees.
Provide the high lights of color against the green background.
Supply cut flowers for the adornment of the inside of the
house.
Provide material with which each and ahy individual can sat-
isfy his personal desires along lines of cultivation and plant improve-
ment.
Fill borders along walks and drives, and against the dwelling or
the boundary fences. : :
Attract bees whose presence in the garden has an aesthetic as
well as a practical utilitarian value.
e. The Lawn.
This is the most important single feature of any garden. Even
but they should not give an impression
- ———————
of smothering the buildings, nor prevent
free circulation of air.
(4) Supply shade somewhere about
the lawn at all times of the day, but
—————
these should be distributed or, if considerable, accepted as inevitable
and traversed by two or three steps, the ground on each side béing
terraced to correspond.
Some Planting Pointers
In following suggestions as to the choice of species
and varieties of material, take geographical and cli-
matic conditions into account. Remember that an
increase in elevation corresponds to progress north-
ward. ‘Therefore plants that are adapted to northern
conditions may do well in mountainous sections of the
South though they fail in the valleys and at sea level,
and vice versa.
Leave the lawn open and undotted with beds of
annuals and specimen shrubs. Concentrate your
flowering plants and larger materials in borders, at
the base of shrubs, around the house and close to it,
etc.
Strive to attain each result with the least possible
amount of material. Remember that every plant
tends to get bigger every year and that crowding does
not constitute beauty even though the materials are of
the costliest.
Make the plan of the entire garden at one time, but
carry it out gradually, using in each successive step
the experience gained in improving the methods em-
ployed in the preceding.
Vary border plantings with well placed clumps and
receding bays as well as with different kinds of plants.
A row of the same kind of shrubs, set in a straight line,
and of uniform size and shape may make a good hedge,
but it offers no attraction as a real border.
Don’t overlook the possibilities of large trees, which,
by modern improved methods can be moved with prac-
tically no danger of loss, thereby creating results that
it would take a quarter of a century to obtain other-
wise.
If you are a collector of curiosities, keep them
together in a private section of the garden as
in a museum or a laboratory. Such material
can rarely if ever be combined with and worked
into a general planting scheme
for a home garden, which nor-
without causing excessive darkness or
dampness anywhere.
(c) Frame distant vistas, and, in the
form of evergreen screens, provide a back-
ground for flowering shrubs or smaller
plants; a thickly planted belt of ever-
greens may also provide an effective
screen to give privacy to a garden or
HOQNTUUTHSSUU
CT
shut off unattractive prospects.
(d) Supply turning points around
which to curve drives or walks. The
White Birch is especially effective in
mally should be planned, carried
out and maintained for the bene-
fit and enjoyment of the whole
family and all its friends.
In planting a permanent gar-
den to surround a permanent
home, rely mainly on hardy
shrubs and perennials. Annual
bedding plants are useful as a
source of cut flowers and for
filling in temporarily empty
spaces in borders and mass
this connection, because of the way it
plantings that will ultimately
looms up at night.
(¢) Provide homes for birds, with-
out which no garden is complete.
6. Shrubs.
(a) Take the place of trees as frames
and backgrounds on small places, and *
elsewhere supplement them, standing in
respect to herbaceous perennials as the trees do in respect to the
shrubs.
(6) Soften the lines of buildings, piazzas, summer houses, etc.
(c) Supply material for hedges.
(d) Supply special features in the garden through some es-
pecially beautiful characteristic of form, foliage, flower, or fruit.
(2) Clothe steep banks and rocky spots ‘that cannot support
forms less hardy, persistent, and adaptable.
(f) Brighten the winter aspect, either as evergreens or because
of their bright colored bark or berries.
c. Vines.
(a) Cover walls, fences and arbors, either as screens or because
of their intrinsic beauty of form, foliage, flower, or fragrance.
(b) Cover and hold in place steep banks where shrubs are not
suitable.
(c) Used over and around déorways to provide a summer screen
and adornment that will not keep off the sunlight in winter.
(d) Cover the walls of houses, especially those of brick, stone
or concrete, where there are no trees to break the large, flat ex-
panses,
VINES FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES
For doorways and arbors: Roses (Dorothy Perkins, Tausend-
schon, etc.), Japanese and Jackman’s Clematis, Wistaria,
Forsythia (suspensa).
For fences and screens: Dutchman’s-pipe, Trumpet-creeper,
Moon-flower, Honeysuckle, Japanese Hop, Coboea,
Kudzu, Wild Cucumber, Perennial Pea, Bittersweet,
Matrimony-vine, Morning-glory.
For walls and houses: Boston Ivy, Virginia-creeper, Climb-
ing Evuonymus, Bittersweet, Wistaria, Actinidia arguta.
For quick results (annuals): Balloon-vine, Scarlet-runner
Bean, Canary-bird vine, cup-and-saucer Vine, Morning-
glory, Maurandia.
For steep banks: Hall’s
Trailing Roses.
Matrimony-vine,
Honeysuckle,
HEDGE PLANTS AND SCREENS
Arborvitae,* Hemlock,* Norway Spruce,* Japan Holly,*
Privet, Japanese Quince,
Osage Orange, California
Tartarian Honeysuckle, Barberry (Thunberg’ s), Flowering
( indicates evergreen).
,
Dogwood.
by itself it is beautiful; whereas, without it, no other feature can show
to best advantage.
It is the real setting for the house and the grounds as a whole
as well as for each individual tree, plant or shrub.
It is the carpet of the outdoor living room, attracting by its
smooth, uniform softness or repelling by its uneven, stony, patchi-
ness as the case may be.
It is the talisman by means of which aeeeeaine on its treat-
ment, a small garden can be made to look Jarger, and a broad ex-
panse prevented from losing its coherence and informality.
It is a gauge by which the neatness of the whole garden, and
consequently, the character of the owner can be judged.
f{. Walks and Drives. °
These, like the doors and windows of a house, are features not
beautiful of themselves, but essential and therefore to be handled
carefully.
They should be honest and direct, leading one to his objective
with the least possible deviation consistent with the nature of the
ground covered. @
They should be firm, of sufficient but not excessive width,
so built as to be dry at all times if possible, with a surface pleasing
to the foot (and to the ear), and so arranged as to border, outline,
etc., as to be easily kept neat and free from weeds, etc.
Walks across a lawn should be as inconspicuous as possible and
so planned as to interfere to the least possible degree with its mowing.
Where walks and drives intercept one another, provision should
be made against accident by permitting a clear view in each direction,
and not screening the roadway from the walk up to the last mo-
ment.
They should be constructed with the slightest possible grades;
74
Isn’t it really worth while to give some attention to the outside adornment of the home? There can be no question
as to which one of these two dweliings appeals as the most home-like
disappear as the perennials in-
crease in size and number.
Develop and improve the gar-
den layout whenever a means for
doing so suggests itself. Trees
and shrubs can be moved with
impunity while Haan while many of them can be
transplanted when in leaf or even in bloom with good
chances of success, if care is taken that the roots never
get a chance to dry owt during and after the operation.
Practically all perennials may be safely moved just
after flowering.
Plant for all seasons, not for one alone. Flowering.
shrubs may be unsurpassed in spring and summer, but
evergreens and certain non-flowering deciduous sorts are
both graceful in warm weather and most welcome and
attractive in winter because of the color of their foliage
or bark.
The most successful home grounds are those that in
the highest degree are natural—that is, look as if they
had just grown up, and really belong there. One way
to attain such a result is by careful placing and arrange-
ment. Another, and a very important one, is by using
very freely native, hardy materials and few of the un-
usual strikingly noticeable (whether by form or color)
(unfamiliar exotics.
DESIRABLE TREES FOR (LOME PLOTS
Large, for shade: American Elm, Sugar Maple, Red and
White Oaks, American Beech, European Linden, Gingko,
Buttonwood,
Evergreen: White Pine, Hemlock, Norway Spruce, Giant
Laurel (Rhododendron maximum).
With fragrant or showy flowers: American Linden, Magnolia,
Black Locust, Papaw, Tulip-tree, Yellow-wood, Fringe-
. _ tree.
Weal akin foliage, fruit, or bark: White Birch, Catalpa,
yellow Willow, Staghorn, Sumac, Mountain Ash, Purple
Beech, Kentucky Coffee-tree.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
March, 1919
Practical Facts About Planting Fruits
Fruits and Their Favorite Soils
The kind of soil you have need not be an insur-
mountable obstacle to the growth of some fruits.
So long as it is fit for cultivation at all it can be made
to give at least fair returns from some crop or other.
As a guide to choosing and locating the kinds of
fruit you will grow, note the following preferences:
Apple likes clay loam best but thrives on greater variety
of soils than any other fruit.
Pear prefers heavy, dense, clay loam.
Plum medium loam best, but will stand considerable
clay. Good for planting in chicken runs and other
Cherry heavily fertilized locations.
Peach . light, sandy loam best. Must be well drained.
; Warmth is desirable, but northern exposure delays
Apricot opening of buds and often prevents frost damage.
Quince does best on heavy, deep, moist (not wet) clay loam.
Grape choose the lighter, somewhat poorer upland soils.
Too much fertility, especially nitrogen, causes
excessive cane growth and poor quality fruit.
Currant need coolness and moisture in both air and soil,
which should be medium heavy clay, rich in humus.
Gooseberry Northern situation and fall planting desirable
Raspberry wnedium heavy loam. Will do best with a little less
moisture than preceding. Of the two, blackberries
Blackberry need the most moisture.
Strawberry almost any soil will do providing it is well drained
and rich. Land previously cultivated is better than
newly turned sod land.
Heavy soils in general are harder to work and need
less fertilizing than others; on them, trees come into
bearing: later, but grow larger, live longer, and yield
larger crops.
Light soils are easy to work and require heavier fer-
tilizing, including especially the addition of manure and
other forms of humus. But they stimulate earlier bear-
ing, accompanied by smaller growth, shorter life, and
lighter yields.
How to Buy Wisely
Buy only the best grade of stock, preferably prop-
agated from selected, sometimes erroneously called,
“pedigree” trees. :
Buy only stock that is guaranteed healthy. This
is quite easy by dealing with established concerns be-
cause of quarantines, fumigation of stock, etc.
Buy only of reliable, established nursery firms, pre-
ferably fruit specialists with whom you can deal direct.
Buy from the nearest concern that has the requisite
standard. As next best buy from a point somewhat to
the north of you.
Buy what you know you want, according to your
knowledge and preferences. Insist on what you want
and don’t take whatever a dealer attempts to sell*you
as a substitute.
Buy well grown, vigorous stock, of medium rather
than large size, and young rather than old. Old trees
are more severely shocked by transplanting and often
lose more time in getting reéstablished than the appar-
ent advantage given them by their greater age and de-
velopment. The approved planting ages for different
fruits are:
Apples, pears and quinces, 2-3 years
Plums and cherries, 2 years 5.
Peaches and apricots, 1 year
Grapes, 1-3 years (from cutting)
Gooseberries and currants, 2 years (from cutting)
Raspberries and blackberries, 1 year plants
Strawberries, newly rooted plants only.
Economy of space: dwarf fruits trained on a trellis close
to a wall; strawberries inthe foreground
“‘Nay, you shall see mine orchard, where, in an
arbour, we will eat a last year’s pippin of my own
Srafting, with a dish of caraways, and so forth.’’—
Mr. Justice Shallow.
Use a planting board to secure a tree in the exact place
desired (see text)
Selecting Varieties That Will Fit
This is very largely a matter of personal taste and
preference. What appeals most to one palate may not
tickle the next one nearly so keenly. Again differences
in locality may make almost as much difference between
a good and a poor specimen of a supposedly standard
variety as between two entirely distinct sorts. Jf
you know what varieties you like best, those are the ones
for you to grow; otherwise take into consideration the
following general principles, then select such varieties
as are well known and time tried.
1. Choose varieties that you are sure thrive in your locality.
2. Choose standard, established varieties. Leave it to the
commercial growers and the experiment stations to try
out novelties. It takes too much space and too many
years to give a fruit a fair trial to justify doing this in the
ordinary home garden.
3. Choose high quality varieties, known for their flavor, ten-
derness, juiciness and other edible qualities, rather than
their keeping, shipping and-selling characters.
4. Choose with reference to the particularly effective use of
each variety. Some apples are supreme for baking,
others for making sauce, others for eating raw; and the
same with many other fruits.
5. Choose with a view to obtaining the greatest variety that
your space permits. Select for a wide seasonal succes-
sion, but as a rule put more emphasis upon summer and
fall varieties of apples and pears than on late, winter
kinds. -
6. Choose to satisfy your own taste and that of your family—
a bushel of something you delight in is better than
twenty bushels of something you accept with resignation
as “the only thing there was left.”
JUST PASSING SUGGESTIONS
’ Merely as a suggestion of varieties that are generally
classed among the best on a basis of quality and adapt-
ability to home garden cultivation over a considerable
range of territory and natural conditions, the following
are given to guide the planter who had no preconceived
ideas to assist him. All are arranged approximately
in order of their season, most attention being given to
standard, midseason sorts.
SIX GOOD APPLES SIX GOOD PEARS SIX GOOD PEACHES
Sweet Bough Madeleine Lamont
Primate Clapp Crawford Early
Wealthy Flemish Oldmixon
McIntosh Seckel Foster
py Bose Crawford Late
Golden Russet Comice McKay’s Late
FIVE GOOD FOUR GOOD CHERRIES FIVE GOOD
GRAPES SWEET SOUR PLUMS
Moore Black Tartarian May Duke Abundance
Worden Windsor Montmorency Shropshire
Agawam Napoleon English Morello Italian Prune
Concord Governor Wood Late Duke Reine Claude
Catawba Golden Drop
THREE GOOD THREE GOOD
THREE GOOD GOOSE-
BERRIES CURRANTS RED RASPBERRIES
Red Jacket Ruby Cuthbert
Dr. Van Fleet Pomona St. Regis
Downing Wilder Marlboro
FOUR GOOD BLACK- SIX GOOD STRAW- THREE GOOD BLACK
BERRIES BERRIES RASPBERRIES
Agawam Michel Black Diamond
Joy Premier _ Gault
Kittatinny Brandywine Gregg
Eldorado Chesapeake
Marshall .
Progressive (everbearing)
THREE GOOD QUINCES
Champion Meech Orange
75
Planning Principles for Fruits
In laying out your space arrange to make the maxi-
mum use of it by interplanting large and small sorts
but remember that the more you try to grow on a given
plot the more carefully must the soil be handled, and
the more food and moisture it must receive.
Plant only those fruits that are really adapted to your
locality. A fig tree occasionally bears in the North,
and some varieties of gooseberry may succeed in ele-
vated sections of the South, but as a rule the fruit gar-
den is no place for experiments with exotics or brand
new, unproven novelties.
Grow mostly the sorts you are particularly fond of,
and of which you can make the best use. If you and
the family are likely to be away from home in early
summer, omit strawberries; if you get. special pleasure
from preserves and jams in winter, plant freely of
quinces and gooseberries.
If you practice combination planting, count on tak-
ing out eventually about half of your bushes and
smaller trees as the others mature and demand all the
space. This is often a painful duty, but unless you are
firm in your determination, almost to ruthlessness,
you will in the long run get poor results.
Spacing Rules in Fruit Planting
The distance required between fruit trees, rows of
bush fruits, etc., varies with the nature and strength
of the soil, the location and climate (which influence
growth), the variety (especially in the case of trees),
and the style of pruning that is to be followed. The
practices of low heading and heading in with a view
to keeping trees close to the ground and comparatively
compact are generally advisable in the home garden.
The following figures give the usual extreme distances
for different fruits, and, in parenthesis, the number of
plants that can be set in one acre at each such distance
apart:
Apple and sweet cherry, 30 feet (48) to 40 feet (27).
Pear, apricot, plum, peach, sour cherry, 16 feet (170) to 24 feet
5)
Quince, 16 feet (170) to 20 feet (108).
Grape, 6 x 8 feet (907) to 8 x 10 feet (544).
Currant and gooseberry, 4 x 6 feet (1,815) to 6 x 8 feet (907).
Raspberry, 3 x 6 feet (2,420) to 5 x 8 feet (1,089).
Blackberry, 4 x 7 feet (1,556) to 6 x 9 feet (806).
Strawberry, I x 4 feet (10,890) to 13 feet (7,260).
Dwarf pear and apple, 15 feet (193) to 20 feet (108).
Some Fruit Combinations
Apples interplanted wit h peaches or dwarf pears.
Currants and gooseberries between young peaches, these be-
tween standard apples or sweet cherries.
Strawberries may occupy the space between rows of brambles
for the first year, or between any tree fruits until they shade
the ground.
Actual Planting Programme
For most tree fruits, and especially peaches and
plums, spring planting is the safest. In the case of
bush fruits and in sections where the spring 1s likely to
be late and cold, fall planting saves time and often
makes possible a crop the first year instead of only
after eighteen months. Strawberries, except newly
potted runners, which should be set out in summer, are
probably best planted in the spring in most places.
Make a planting board as shown in the illustration,
about four feet long, with a hole at each end and a
notch in the middle. When ready to plant a tree set
the notch against the locating stake, pin the board fast
with stakes in the two holes, remove the centre peg,
dig the hole, set the tree in it so the stem takes the place
of the peg, and fill in the hole before removing the board.
This will leave the tree exactly where it should be.
Whatever you plant, dig the hole plenty big so to
take all the roots without crowding or bending. The
stiffer and poorer the soil, the bigger the hole should be.
Make it deep enough so that the tree when set will
stand an inch or so lower
than it did in the nursery
row. Let brambles stand
five or six inches deeper
than they stood before.
When the stock arrives,
if you can plant it within a
day or so, leave the bun-
dles unopened, moistening
them a little if necessary
and keeping them in a cool,
shady place. Otherwise, un-
do the material, and heel it
in, that is, pack it closely
together with the roots in a
trench where they can be
kept covered thoroughly
: : : Wire or other rabbit guards
with earth until planting must be fastened joceely to
time. permit expansion
FOOD F-O-B THE
FEL S TCHEN DOR,
y
N°
Y
America a Nation of Gardeners
E AMERICANS ought to be a nation
of gardeners. Nature intended that
we should. And this applies to the
man in the city as well as in the rural
districts.”
That is the message to the people of the United
States from a Chicago newspaper man who last
year planted the first garden he had ever cul-
tivated in his life, who was awarded the first prize
by the State Council of Defense and who found
so much joy and satisfaction in studying and
ering for his plants that he has “joined up” for
good.
This man, W. E. Babb, a “cliff dweller” in one
of Chicago’s big apartment houses, after telling
how he went into war gardening as a patriotic
duty, having “dug up a carload of junk” in the
vacant lot adjoining the apartment before he
could begin tilling, adds:
“And there was something more. I learned
that vegetables are interesting things to raise! I
tried raising chickens once and got a lot of real
pleasure out of it, but it didn’t compare with the
joy I got out of my war garden.”
Incidentally he makes a very interesting ob-
servation regarding the average American boy,
when he says: “I put up a war garden sign over
the lot with the inscription: ‘All ammunition
doesn’t come from the powder factories;’ and then
set out to prove it. The lot was not protected
by afence. It was open to the boulevard in front
and to the alley in the rear. The neighborhood
was alive with boys of a mischievous age. But
from the day I began work in early April until I
harvested my final crops late in September, not
a plant was disturbed, which leads me to observe
that the average American boy is about the most
patriotic part of our democracy.”
Why, then, should America not be a “nation
of gardeners?”’ Nature has furnished the soil
and the climate which have been denied to many
other countries. Hundreds of thousands of per-
sons, have acquired their first taste of gardening
as a result of patriotic urge, but they have found
a deep and genuine pleasure in the work and are
going to continue as home food producers.
“ Never again will we be denied the happy knowl-
edge of Nature which comes from tilling the soil
and the satisfaction which comes from gathering
part of our own food fresh and crisp close to the
kitchen door,” is the testimony of a New Haven
“city farmer;” and similar welcome words have
come from many others who while helping others
have discovered joy to their own souls.
Make the garden lasting! ‘There is no reason
why this cannot bedone. It should be one of the
ermanent blessings resulting from the war.
Through the nation-wide campaign for home food
production which has been carried on, the Ameri-
can people have been taught a wonderful lesson,
and much of what they have learned they will
not soon forget. That thrift which added so
much to the strength of France has become a
habit of millions in this country. The same must
be true of gardening.
There is still the vital necessity for increased
Daylight Saving Begins
March 30
Set the clock ahead one hour on the
last Sunday in March. Summer time
begins then.
food raising. This condition will not pass for a
long time to come, some years at least. Under
this incentive, therefore, there should come to be
more and more of a permanency to the “business”
of city farming. As the great poet Milton said
of his works, it is something “the world will not
willingly let die.” With the nation called on this
year to go in for “victory gardening”’ even more
intensively and more extensively than they did
for war gardening, there is no reason why the
campaign for “food f. o. b. the kitchen door”
should not be made a permanent proposition.
Again this year the Daylight Saving law is
with us to help the home gardener and to give
him that extra hour every afternoon which he can
use so well in caring for his vegetable plot. It
was a wonderful help last year. For seven whole
QAM ihe lia
eval
Only an odd lot adjoining a big city apartment house in Chicago
—but it is one of the many war gardens that have come to stay
as long as the land is available
months, from the last Sunday in March until the
last Sunday in October, it makes the sun to shine
one hour longer: for the man whose vocation is
in the office and house. One of the main pur-
poses of Congress when it passed the law early
last spring and decided to make it permanent
was that it would be of great assistance in food
production. Many people have thought that the
Daylight Saving law was for one year only but
such is not the case.
76
Aroused by the existing world need for food,
ithe Victory Garden campaign this year promises
to exceed the war garden planting of 1918, ac-
cording to the plans of cooperation with the
National War Garden Commission which have
been extended by organizations of all kinds
throughout the United States. They realize
that there is greater need for food than ever be-
fore, that the World War for Food must be won
before there can be any real enjoyment of the
fruits of military victory, and that the best anti-
dote with which to fight the ugly menace of Bol-
shevism is food. Pestilence and panic are the
daughters of famine. ~ i
In connection with the “own a home” cam-
paign which is being carried on throughout the
United States this year, the value of the garden
as an added asset will be emphasized by the
builders and the real estate men. The home is
the cornerstone of the nation, and the garden is
the cement which helps to hold this cornerstone
in place. In a resolution adopted by the Ad-
vertising Club of Washington and forwarded to
the Associated Advertising Clubs of the World,
the members of that body were urged to get back
of the campaign for Victory Gardens “by using
window displays and garden copy wherever pos-
sible in order to carry the message of ‘food f. o. b.
the kitchen door’ to the people.”
From the far-off Philippines comes the report
that ‘““home gardening has been one of the prin-
cipal features of the campaign in the Islands for
greater food production.” It is from the secre-
tafy of agriculture and natural resources, who
tells how provincial and municipal food com-
mittees and civic clubs have been organized, and
how the women’s clubs are contributing greatly
to the work by arousing interest in the movement
among the women of the country. The pro-
vincial and municipal officers have urged the
planting of gardens in the public plazas or
squares, where they “would be a constant re-
minder to the inhabitants of the entire com-
munity of the need for such effort.”
And then Japan is going to teach its people
how to plant home gardens. ‘This is part of the
message which has spread all over the world as a
result of the National War Garden Commission’s
campaign. S. B. Honda, a member of the Japa-
nese trade commission which has been visiting
the United States, and also connected with the
Japanese Department of Agriculture, in speaking
of this subject says:
“Our people know very little about home food
production. The yards of our homes are, of
course, devoted to flowers. Our people pay a
great deal of attention to the growing of beauti-
ful plants. We pride ourselves upon this but the
food situation has become such that we must take
up that question more fully. A government
survey of idle land is being made and people will
be encouraged to cultivate all the land possible.
Fight Bolshevism with food the world around!
Let that be the rallying ery of the Victory Gar-
deners of 1919. Food is the fortress upon which
the “frontiers of freedom” must be maintained. °
TENN
Se
on
The Boom in Organized Gardening 8y rrances puncan
Community and Club Opportunity to Work Up a Really Practical Reaction From the Present Garden Boom
NE of the best things that Uncle Sam
has done for American agriculture, was
the war-created boom for organized
gardening.
Of course it happened to meet a national neces-
sity, but the boom is here. Never before has our
garden-work been so effectively and efficiently
organized as it was last summer. And having
found how well community effort worked, not
only yielding crops, but pleasure and profit and
health besides, no community will drop it. Or-
ganized gardening made it possible for any one to
go a-gardening; no matter how slight the experi-
ence, how slender the capital, how tiny the bit of
land, any one who last year wanted to have a gar-
den could have one. At whatever point he or she
needed help, it was pretty sure to be found and
competent, really helpful assistance too.
Thrifty gardens in America have become a mat-
ter of civic and community pride. It is to be
hoped that the garden pageants and processions
which last year were such an interesting part of
the garden work will be repeated and become a
regular and essential part of the year’s events.
We have in America altogether too few occasions
when the whole community comes together for
amerrymaking. Everyone knows what pleasure,
in any town or city that has had the wit to inau-
gurate the custom, has been given by the com-
munity Christmas tree and the revival of open
air carol singing on Christmas Eve. With this,
a yearly garden pageant easily could take rank
and become the spring event as the other is the
winter one. It would be a delightful inaugural
for the year’s garden work and the whole com-
munity would begin their gardens with more than
the usual zest and enthusiasm—and get together
on it.
The pageants could be as elaborate or as simple ~
as the townsfolk wished. One after the fashion
of the very successful one in Atlanta could be ar-
ranged by the smallest community or group and
at trifling expense. That consisted ina citizens’
parade, including everyone from school children
to the Mayor and all armed with some sort of
garden-implements—hoe or rake or watering-pot
swung aloft—figuratively, it was a marching
around the Jericho of the vacant-lot spaces that
were to be conquered and made fertile and pro-
ductive.
M2RE ambitious communities will have more
elaborate pageants, floats planned and ar-
ranged by local florists or seedsmen or by garden
clubs, but the Atlanta feature of a plowing con-
test between the Mayor and the Governor with
which that pageant ended would be a highly in-
teresting event for any community to duplicate
between important officials.
The war-garden committees of last year will
Where only the bare earth was before, this garden of annuals and lawn was the result of five
months’ work. (Londsdale. R. I.)
this year, where the personnel was successful, be-
come permanent committees. It is well to note
that where the gardening was most efficient, there
was back of it a well balanced, thoroughly repre-
sentative committee, such as that in Chicago
where park commissioners, truck gardeners, com-
mercial florists, business men, were on the com-
mittee as well as the usual quota of club-women,
of the philanthropically inclined, and of the social-
welfare people. The presence on such a com-
mittee of practical and experienced gardeners
must have been invaluable.
In the office of the Chicago garden-committee
hung a map of the city, districted carefully, com-
munity centres marked where lectures might be
held, and each district was in charge of someone
who knew about gardening—it might be any one
of the existing garden-clubs or garden-organiza-
tions—but some one of them was responsible for
seeing to it that the folk in that area had a chance
to make gardens if they wished, and encourage-
ment and “‘first aid” inthe endeavor. Volunteer
lay-supervisors were found for the children’s gar-
dens, men and women whose qualification was
that they had fairly successful gardens of their
own, and would agree to have a look, so many
times a week at so many little gardens.
Many a community besides Chicago, broke
through the idiotic iron rule which obtained in
Philadelphia—and may hold elsewhere for aught
I know—that only a teacher, a regular normal
graduate, may lawfully teach gardening to chil-
dren in school gardens. The normal graduate
may know mighty little about gardening, those
who adjudge her qualifications may know less—
that matters not to the Board of Education. She
is a teacher, therefore can teach, whether or not
she and the subject be acquainted! Such brainless
ruling, and the deadly uniformity practised and
enforced in many garden enterprises on the luck-
less little folk, have sat like a dead weight on our
school gardening effectively keeping it from doing
anything worth while. Little strings of red tape
have tied it up as effectively as was Gulliver in
Lilliput.
In many communities and cities Uncle Sam’s
war gardening has broken up this and let the little
gardeners come into direct touch with folk of their
own town or community who have gardens and
understand them and love them—which has
proved for the small gardeners and their gardens
a wonderfully vitalizing influence. Let us hope,
for the good of American school gardening that
the scholastic iron clamp stays broken.
Community use for the park greenhouses is an
accident of the war gardening that has come to
stay. We may have fewer bedding out plants
in the parks next summer, possibly plant more
hardy things and hardy garden flowers than
Coleus and the like, of which many of us have be-
77
come thoroughly tired. There is so little inven-
tion required in the same old order of setting out
the square or circular beds—Cannas in the middle,
Coleus or Ageratum at the edge—that to have our
park gardeners go in for a really lovely blending
of color in permanently planted borders would
be a blessed relief, and some slight diversion of
the original use of the park greenhouses to a wider
community usefulness might not only bless com-
munity gardeners but bless the parks as well.
OR really effective organized gardening,
linking up the local enterprise with the state
agricultural work is most valuable. Whoever is
in charge of organizing a garden work in his com-
munity and feels a bit unequal to the task—or
even if he or she feels perfectly and supremely com-
petent, will find it worth while to write to O. H.
Benson of the U. S. Department of Agriculture,
and if he or she feels a bit unequal to the task,
there is for him very direct and extremely useful
information and excellent ideas of “just how” to
do it; or even if heor she feels perfectly and sup-
remely competent, there will be hints and sugges-
tions of very real value.
One of the most important problems in success-
ful community gardening is that of marketing.
Many a truck gardener and farmer who last year,
at Uncle Sam’s behest went energetically and ex-
tensively into planting extra acreage only to find
a loss for himself because of lack of marketing
facilities or of labor to harvest his crops will this
year plan for his marketing earlier. One of the
most helpful suggestions along this line comes
from Mr. Rhett of Charleston, South Carolina,
in which city the business men, finding that the
farmers were peculiarly weak in the matter of
managing their marketing to advantage—for
after all it is a different trade from growing—met
with them and cooperated, greatly to the advant-
age of all concerned. To a great extent, market-
ing problems are local and if growers and busi-
ness men get together on them some solution
should be possible and fairly easy. At all events
it worked in Charleston.
OXE of the happiest results of the perfected gar-
den organization has been the development
of something like a real community spirit—and
thats one hopes, has come to stay. Townsfolk will
become acquainted with one another’s gardening
achievement; they will become acquainted with
young gardeners of promise. The Women’s Na-
tional Farm and Garden Association in many
a state is offering scholarships for expenses at
Agricultural Colleges, so that girls seriously in-
terested in agriculture as a profession may take
up the study whether or not they have sufficient
means of their own at their disposal.
The new type of school garden with permanent plantings of trees and shrubs in real garden-like
style is found at Providence, R. I.
(March! Whoever it was, he cer-
tainly chose a good name for this
month. Thus far we have been
marking time, planning our cam-
paigns, sharpening our weapons,
girding up our loins, and making
all manner of preparations. Now
comes the definite forward order
—and the “march” begins. Let each
of us keep well up with the proces-
sion and abreast of the season's
schedule.
General Orders for General Use
When you remove the mulch from the
bulb borders and strawberry bed,
leave some of the litter in a pile
near by for a few weeks, so that if
there is a sudden brief spell of cold
weather, you can spread a thin covering over
the plants and perhaps save them from destruc-
tion. -
Remove most of the mulch from asparagus and
rhubarb beds, so that the onion sets planted last
September will grow well, or dig in the finer part
of the mulch, around all the perennials, including
French artichoke and seakale. Scatter salt
(half a pound per square yard) around the as-
paragus and work it in, unless you live near the
seashore. Uncover multiplier onions, too, about
this time.
Have you bought all the too/s you will need this
season? A wheel hoe, by the way is practically a
necessity these days in any garden of more than
2S 3 DB INE.
If you are buying a wheelbarrow get one of the
regular garden type with removable sides. It is
really two distinct implements, one suited to
carrying the largest possible loads of dirt, manure,
etc.; the other a flat affair for moving all sorts of
bulky objects—hotbed sash, barrels of water, a
rack for carrying huge heaps of leaves and mulch-
ing material, and the like.
As soon as you have used up the last of the
winter supply of potatoes, roots, etc., from the
cellar, clean out the storage space thoroughly.
Sweep up and burn all bits of vegetable matter
that might decay, take out and empty all boxes
of dirt, sweep the wall, ceiling, and floor with a
stiff broom, then spray with strained whitewash
and sprinkle some lime or charcoal around to
freshen the place up. .
Did you include in the seed order the following
—they used to be novelties, but they are well
known and with excellent reputations -now,
Kochia, the burning bush; the diminutive in-
dividual watermelon; winter or Chinese radish,
milder than any spring or summer sort and easily
kept until early spring; pe-tsai the Chinese or
celery cabbage, really easier to raise than lettuce;
plenty of wax beans, which are good green, a little
more mature as shell beans, and still later, when
dried, excellent for baking; both early and late
Cosmos, the combination providing a summer
and autumn full of flowers.
FROST, FORESIGHT, AND OTHER FACTORS
Remember that clear, dry air is favorable to
frost. Watch out for the days when the sun is
very bright, the shadows very dense, and the
air very still, especially if the morning tempera-
ture was anywhere near 35 degrees.
If frost threatens: (1) Build smudge fires around
the garden, to create a smoke blanket; (z) leave
a sprinkler running so as to fill the air with
moisture; (3) cover the plants that are most
likely to be injured with newspaper or light litter
of some kind. It will help even to run the culti-
vator up and down the rows just before dark to
turn up moist soil and add to the moisture in the
air.
If a frost happens, sprinkle the plants that
were touched before the sun strikes them next
morning; this “draws” the frost and often saves
a frosted crop.
Che Month's Reminder
MARCH
The Reminder is to “suggest”? what may be done during the next few weeks. Details of how todo eachitem
are given in the current or the back issues of THe GarpEN Macazine—it is manifestly impossible to give
all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine. j c
up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request), and the Service Department will also cite
references to any special topic if asked.
In calculating times to plant out of doors New York City is the usual standard.
day is the rate at which the season advances.
The Lawn, the Trees, and the Shrubbery
The early spring treatment of the lawn
has a lot to do with its appearance
and vigor all the rest of the year.
If it was manured last fall, rake oft
most of the dressing just before the
eround gets soft and add it to the
oes
compost pile; the best of the plant food it con- .
tained has long since been washed into the
ground.
Next, as soon as the frost is out, roll the lawn,
and sprinkle over it bone meal (half a pound per
square yard) and, if you have them, about half
as much wood ashes. If no manure was applied
in the fall, an application of prepared sheep man-
ure will do much good right now. Later, when
growth starts, two ounces of nitrate of soda per
square yard will act as a tonic. Last year this
couldn’t be had for garden uses.
After the final spring thaw, dig out dock,
dandelion, plantain and other perennial weeds.
Cut the roots several inches below the surface.
Then sprinkle a little soil over these and any
other bare spots, rake in a little fresh seed and
roll down.
Before the soil loses its spring supply of mois-
ture—but of course not while it is wet enough
to puddle—is a good time to do grading, sodding,
terracing and other types of garden construction
work. Paths made now will quickly lose that
ugly, new appearance as the grass and flowers
spring up around them.
Concrete work can be completed even before
freezing weather is over, provided the sand is
warmed before being mixed with the cement,
and the finished surface protected from freezing
by tarpaulins, hotbed mats, etc.
Southern gardeners take notice—this is one of
the best times for you to transplant evergreens.
In every case keep the roots from drying out and
avoid all possible injury to the fine feeding sys-
tem. Hollies should have all their leaves stripped
off as soon as they are planted. If the sun comes
out strong, or a warm, drying wind springs up
soon after such things are set, cover them with
large sheets of heavy paper or with wet burlap,
to check evaporation.
Northern transplanting in March includes about
everything but the evergreens. Be sure to cut
back all shrubs, trees and woody vines moved
now, so as to compensate for the inevitable
root injury.
Of the shrubs already in place prune, before
they start into growth, those that will not bloom
until July or later, as for instance, Camellia.
Clematis Jackmannu, Hydrangea, Philadelphus,
etc.
Pruning is the means whereby shrubs, trees and
vines may be guided or trained into desirable
habits of growth and shape, and is best done
when they are dormant and still young.
How many grand old trees can you remember
that gradually rotted away and finally blew over
or were chopped down because a decade ago tree
surgery and the restoring of cripples to strength
and a greatly increased lease of life were un-
known arts? Are there any trees on your place
that are going the same way for want of a little
simple attention now?
Don’t forget that shrubs and ornamental trees
are often infested by scales and other insects;
the Poplar commonly known as Balm of Gilead
is almost always a prey to the oystershell scale,
and the San José attacks Roses, flowering
18
References to back numbers may be looked
Roughly fifteen miles a
Thus Albany which is one hundred and fifty miles from New
York would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia which is ninety miles southwest about a week earlier.
Dr. Hopkins (page 20 Feb. issue) estimates four days for each one degree of latitude or five degrees of longitude,
or four hundred feet of altitude.
{Govern your sowings and plant-
ings more by nature's indications
than by dates. When currant
and gooseberry buds begin to open
it 1s safe to sow hardy vegetables
and flowers and to transplant out-
doors well-hardened off specimens of
the same species. When apple
trees and Lilacs are in bloom is
plenty early enough to sow seeds
of tender sorts, and bring tomato
and other tender seedlings outdoors.
Almonds, etc. If you find signs of their presence
spray now just as for fruit enemies (see below).
Have you had difficulty in ¢raining vines,
shrubs, etc., to walls and the sides of buildings?
The wall nail, carried by most seedsmen, should
solve the problem for you. It carries a soft
lead clip that may be bent around the stem after
the nail is driven into place, and which will hold
without injuring.
Now is the time to bring into the garden those
small shrubs and trees, vines and all sorts of hardy
perennials that you discovered during your ram-
bles last fall and marked as your very own. So
also it is the time to thin out shrubbery plantings
that have grown too dense. Spaces created now
will be hardly noticeable by July.
Plant, Prune, and Protect the Fruits
This is fruit planting time. Be-
ginning with apples, pears, and
quinces and ending with peaches,
all the fruit you planned to add to
the garden in 1919—and a little
more—should be in place before the trees now
growing burst their buds.
Standards or dwarfs? The latter are shorter
lived and require more care, but then they need
far less space, bear earlier and usually higher-
quality crops, and can be cared for practically
from the ground whether it is pruning, spraying
or harvesting that is on the programme. Dwarf
apricots, for instance, can be covered over with a
sheet when a late frost threatens the blossoms.
Cherry and plum ?rees in the chicken yard pro-
vide grateful, beneficial shade; the chickens de-
stroy many insects—especially the curculio—
that attack these fruits.
One of the first tasks this month is to prune
or finish pruning the grapes. If left any longer
they will bleed seriously when the work is done.
Finish all the other pruning, including the
heading back of trees, the removal of one of each
pair of interfering branches, the removal of old
canes from all bush fruits, and the shortening and
tying up of the three or four most vigorous new
ones. Blackberries, gooseberries, loganberries,
and other tall growing, semi-drooping sorts.
Loganberries, by the way, are good, but how do
you know your soil and climate suit them? The
Department of Agriculture says they are suited
only to a few humid sections of the Northwest
and California, and similar situations with similar
soil and climatic conditions.
Late this month, or early next, graft over to
better varieties, the trees that yield fruit that you
don’t care for or even try a new sort or two on a
few branches of some of your better trees. Use
the grafts that you selected and stowed away in
sand in February.
One thorough spraying with “‘winter strength”
lime-sulphur solution, or miscible oil now while
the trees are dormant, will do more good
in checking pests than three applications
of “summer strength” later on. Of course
both may prove necessary.
A good way to lessen the chances of having
brown rot on your stone fruits is to spray the
ground around the trees with any strong fungicide
just before the buds open. Do this if possible
just before rainy weather which stimulates the
germination of the spores of the disease.
Directions for the spraying of the apple and
pear are common enough. The reason less is
said about quince troubles is that just about the
Marcu, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 79
Fav to make
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—
SEEDING
7 ATTACHMENT
SS
hee successful your garden may have been in the
past this is the year of all years when bigger crops are
expected of every farmer and gardener.
Our food pledge to hungry Europe must be fulfilled; and you will want
to do all you can to help.
Increased production depends on thorough cultivation, and this can best be secured
by the use of Planet Jr. garden tools. Their scientific construction, with various special-
ized attachments enables you to cultivate with the thoroughness that secures to the soil Qe ye
proper aération and ability to hold moisture, both of which are necessary to increased hee
vitality of the plants. Strong, healthy, vitalized plants produce bigger and better crops, and
Planet Jr. tools get these results quickly and with less labor because of their light draught and ease
of operation. Use them, increase the joy and profit of gardening, and add to the nation’s food supply.
Planet Jr Garden lools
No. 4 Planet Jr. Combined Hill and Drill Seeder, Wheel-Hoe, Cultivator and Plow is a special favorite, and there are
more of them in use throughout the world than any other seeder made. Opens the furrow, sows all garden seeds (in hills or drills),
covers, rolls down and marks the next row all at one operation. Hoes, plows and cultivates all through the season. A hand-
machine that will pay for itself in time, labor and seed saved in a single season.
No. 12 Planet Jr. Double and Single Wheel-Hoe has hoes that are wonderful weed killers. The Plows open furrows, cover
them and hill growing crops. The Cultivator Teeth work deep or shallow. The Leaf Lifters save much time in late work when plants
are large or leaves too low for ordinary work. Crops are straddled till 20 inches high, then the tool works between rows with one s
or two wheels.
a S. L. ALLEN & CO. Inc., Box 1108S, Philadelphia
72-page Catalog free
Illustrates Planet Jrs. doing actual farm and garden work, and describes
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CULTIVATING |
TEETH
CULTI VYATING
MLE ETH
¢
“ ast
Zot lS
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
80
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Marca, 1919
same enemies trouble all three fruits and can be
controlled the same way on all of them.
The pear tree psylla is one of those insects of
restricted tastes. Combat it by spraying late
this month or early in April as advised in the
November issue; then follow this treatment with
a nicotine spray—Black Leaf-40 is good—as
directed on the package.
Fruit trees whose main branches and trunk
are pierced by many holes about as big as a pin
head are not worth saving. The holes are indi-
cations of bark beetles which, however, don’t
attack a tree until it begins to fail from some
other cause.
Tiny holes in the last year’s shoots of raspberry,
grape, blackberry, etc., are caused by tree crickets,
which, unless very numerous are not a pest.
Hints for the “Victory’’ Patch
The following seeds are hardy and
should be sown as soon as the
ground is workable: asparagus
(seed), beets, carrots, corn-salad,
cress, endive, kohlrabi, leek, let-
SNS
parsnip, radish, salsify, spinach and_ turnip.
Of the quick growers, sow a ten to twenty foot
row every week until the last of May: that is,
plant little and often.
The first appearance of newly sown crops is
the signal for the season’s first cultivation. The
smaller the weed seedlings the easier it is to kill
them. A wooden rake run lightly over the sur-
face of all planted ground will greatly lessen the
future weed growth and will not destroy enough
seedling plants to matter.
_ If you plant dwarf peas in double rows twelve
inches apart, you can later on plant sweet corn
and squash or melons between them to use the
space after the vines have been dug under.
Delay sowing wrinkled peas until there is no
danger of their rotting in the over moist soil.
But meantime gather brush so you can put it in
place at the same time you sow the seed. Might
as well get together some bean poles while gather-
ing the pea brush.
Parsley may be sown in a seed bed and later
transplanted—this is sometimes desirable be-
cause of the long time the seed takes to start.
But really the crop prefers to be left in one place;
unlike lettuce it does not thrive under trans-
planting.
“Greens” are undeservedly unpopular in the
minds of some people who know they are health-
ful and wholesome and therefore regard them
suspiciously as physic rather than food. If you
are free of such prejudice, why not try some of
the improved varieties of dandelion in addition
to spinach and chard this year? Sow early
where the plants are to remain; use the thinnings
as soon as they are big enough, leaving the others
twelve inches apart for a permanent supply from
which to obtain frequent harvests of succulent
leaves.
Potatoes should be planted \ate this month or
early next. Soil preparation for this crop means
digging in well rotted manure—but no lime or
wood ashes and the addition of a general fertilizer
in the drill at planting time. Three feet is a
good, safe distance between rows, and dwarf
peas, spinach, lettuce, radishes, or onion sets
may occupy the space between. Fifteen to
eighteen inches between hills is necessary unless
the ground is unusually rich.
Plant a quart of Jerusalem artichokes in a mod-
erately moist corner that you don’t expect to
need badly. Leave them alone until fall when
they will supply you with some brilliant yellow,
rather coarse, daisy-like flowers, and a little
jater a crop of edible tubers. The small tubers
that you will certainly overlook in the digging
will replant the bed each season for years to come.
Start new asparagus, rhubarb and horseradish
beds by planting roots. The earliest plantings
of onion sets can go between the rows.
tuce, mustard, onion, parsley,
Dig parsnips, salsify and whatever Jerusalem
artichokes you are going to need for the next
few weeks as soon as the frost leaves the ground
and store them in slightly moist sand in the cool-
est corner of the cellar. This will prevent them
from starting into growth and becoming unusable.
A heavy mulch applied to part of the space de-
voted to these crops while the ground is still fro-
zen will delay its thawing and extend the season
for these winter vegetables.
Try to average less seed than most directions
specify. Thinner sowing now saves slow, tedi-
ous thinning later and gives the surplus seedlings
a chance to get a bit bigger and therefore better
for either transplanting or eating. This is es-
pecially true with beets; each ‘‘seed” is a dried
fruit liable to produce several plants. Sow
thinly and transplant to fill gaps.
A seed of an early forcing variety of radish
every three or four inches in every row of parsley,
salsify, parsnip and other slow-germinating crop,
not only marks the row and permits earlier culti-
vation than if you waited for the main crop to
appear, but also supplies enough early radishes
to make special plantings unnecessary.
Depth to sow? Look on the Planters’ Guide
elsewhere in this issue (Pages 70 to 75).
Where a Little Heat Helps a Lot
In the greenhouse or conservatory
(or sunny south window, if you
are restricted to that) start Chry-
santhemum and Carnations (seed
or cuttings) for October blooms;
also Primula and Cyclamen (from
seed only) for next winter flowers.
Be sure to thin owt any seedlings that are al-
ready up in flats sown last month.
Propagate all sorts of bedding plants, such as
Coleus, Begonia, Geranium, etc. Each of these
has one method or style of cutting that gives the
best results so be sure you are on the right track
before going ahead. Bailey’s “‘Nursery Book,”
or Kains’ “ Propagation of Plants,” will tell you
all you need to know about all the methods, and
which one to use in any particular case.
Harden off the seedlings that are now growing
under glass and that will first be set out.
gradually given more and more air and developed
into strong, stocky specimens, the hardiest of
them will stand a slight frost without harm, that
is borecole, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage,
cauliflower, celery, kohlrabi, lettuce.
Keep the heat lovers—tomatoes, squash, egeg-
plant, peppers, etc., well protected, giving
them air only in the middle of the day, when the
sun is bright and the danger of chilling them
practically negligible.
Start some hills of corn in paper pots for later
transplanting. ‘This is an example of the sort of
foresight that makes a successful garden better
than those around it.
As soon as the weather becomes sufficiently
settled so that you can replace the glass hotbed
sash with cloth sash, take the former out of the
way, clean them up, replace any broken or miss-
ing lights of glass, and store them away in a safe
place for fall use.
Do you make full use of the hotbeds after the
heat of the manure in them has been spent—
that is, after they become coldframes? You
will find some reminders as to how to make the
most of frames in THE GarDEN Macazine,
1905, page 30.
Some forehanded gardeners will have Carna-
tion cuttings already rooted and ready for potting;
there may also be plants already in pots that
need shifting. Don’t let these tasks be delayed.
If you have any space to spare in the green-
house benches a few cucumbers can still be
started—using one of the special forcing varieties
of course.
Easter is coming! To get flowers at the right
time is almost as difficult as keeping a football
team in the pink of condition for the big contest
of the year without letting it get stale. See that
the temperature and: moisture conditions are
just right, and don’t let the plants develop too
fast, while, at the same time, don’t check them
suddenly whatever you do.
Branches of early flowering shrubs can still be
brought in and put in water to brighten up the
house. They ought to blossom in four or five
weeks at the outside now.
Bring out into the light any remaining bulbs
that have been developing roots in a cool place;
perhaps they too will open in time to brighten
Easter Sunday.
An average night temperature of 60 degrees F.
is needed by the following plants—look out for
them on those occasional days when the weather
has relapsed into winter frigidity: Abutilon,
Calceolaria, Begonia, Bouvardia, Euphorbia, Sal-
via, Heliotrope, Fuchsia, Jasmine, Petunia,
Geranium, Dracaena, Palms, Ferns, Auracaria,
Pandanus, Asparagus (ornamental), Smilax,
Madeira-vine, Lobelia, Oxalis, Mesembryan-
themum, Saxifrage, Tradescantia, Selaginella.
GETTING THE FLOWER ROOTS TO WORK ,
Cannas may be started now. Simply lay
them on a greenhouse bench or in flats in a hot-
bed. Cover them partly with moist sand or
coal ashes. They will soon start to grow when
they may be cut apart and potted for trans-
planting in late May.
Place Dahlia roots in moist sand. When the
shoots are four to six inches long cut them off
to make “‘slips”’ or cuttings which grow as easily
as Geranium slips. In this way you may rap-
idly increase your best varieties. New sprouts
will come from the bulbs which may be planted
out as usual.
Risk part of your Gladiolus bulbs by planting
about March 15th—as soon as the soil can be
worked. Plant successionally every two weeks
till June or July first, provided you can keep the
bulbs cool and dry that long.
Prevention Better Than Cure
Soak seed potatoes in a solution
of formalin (one pint to thirty
Wy, gallons of water) for two hours be-
=ev- fore cutting or planting them to
prevent scab.
the solution occasionally while cutting the seed.
Discard all tubers that are discolored inside
with pink or brown blotches or that show any
other signs of disease. Many people dust the
cut surfaces with sifted coal ashes just before
planting.
Beets are attacked by the same sort of scab as
potatoes; therefore don’t plant either of these
crops on soil that last season produced a scabby
crop of either.
If your onions were smutted last season plant
them this year somewhere else, and treat the in-
fected plot with flowers of sulphur one ounce
and powdered lime half an ounce per twenty-
five square feet. If your cabbage developed
swollen, deformed roots, do not use that plot for
any plant of the cabbage family for at least three
years; and dress the soil heavily with lime in the
meantime.
Disinfection of the seed bed soil is a wise pre-
caution. Baking in an oven is the simplest way
to effect this. Also cabbage seed may be soaked
in a corrosive sublimate solution—three tablets
as purchased in a quart of warm water, for fifteen
minutes.
If you own and enjoy using a pole-handled
tree pruner, restrain yourself from using it too
freely. Its only legitimate purposes are heading
back branches that are growing too long and that
are beyond the reach of the shears; and clipping
off twigs carrying the egg clusters of tussock or
brown tail moths, tent caterpillars, and a few
other insect pests.
Dip your knife in’
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Marca, 1919
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RON AGE TOOLS take the back-breaking
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Iron Age Tools enable you to step right out in
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Iron Age Garden Tools are made in many styles.
There are Hill and Drill Seeders that sow seed
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Iron Age Tools, made by manufacturers of over
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See your dealer and write to us for
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NO. 19 C
Tools include Landside
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SAMMUT ONG SA
82
ANNE
present generation for World Peace.
private grounds is the
endure through many generations.
Beech, Elm, Maple, Linden or Oak would be pre-
ferable as memorial trees for avenues and shade.
All are native American trees, healthy, strong
and long-lived.
ROSEDALE offers a grand lot of these and other
Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Vines, including both large
and small sizes. In accordance with Our Motto,
we quote:
“Prices as Low as
Consistent with Highest Quality”
Send for the 1919 Rosedale Catalogue.
Rosedale Nurseries
S. G. HARRIS, Proprietor
TARRYTOWN, N. Y.
Box A
LAAN ACT
“VICTORY TREES’
Plant Memorial Trees
For Soldiers and Sailors
A Monument for All and by All
Whether you gave a boy or not, plant a tree as a
living memorial to the victory over Hun and Hell.
We are living in the greatest age of the world’s
history. Those that follow us should have en-
during reminders of the awful price paid by the
It is fitting that the heroism of living soldiers and
sailors as well as that of their comrades who made
the supreme sacrifice, should be recalled in future
days. And what more appropriate than a growing
tree to signify the increasing blessings of Victory?
A memorial tree, par excellence, for parks and
Douglas Fir
An Evergreen—A Living Memorial
The Douglas Fir is a long-lived tree which will
healthy, stately and symmetrical in growth, it
thrives in nearly all soils and conditions.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE.
N=}
Hardy,
A ATA
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Nut Trees
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Marca, 1919
That the Future May Be Filled With Flowers
This is the main planting month
for all sorts of annuals that can be
started in flats or a hotbed and
later planted outside. Sow the
seed fairly thickly in drills an inch
apart; transplant the first time
(this is the “pricking out” process) so the seed-
lings will stand two inches apart each way as
soon as they can be handled; at the second shift,
leave them four inches apart, or put each in a
two-inch pot. By that time they should have
been sufficiently hardened to be set in the open
ground as soon as they need more root space.
A number of perennials will bloom the first sea-
son if handled the same way. Some of the
hardier can be planted outdoors by the end of
the month.
Don’t delay Sweet Pea sowing any longer. A
long cool spring season stimulates a vigorous,
deep root growth and insures healthy, productive
plants during the dryer summer weather. Re-
member, the earlier you plant the deeper the
trenches should be, though the seed should
rarely be covered more than three or four inches
deep; work the rest of the soil in around them
as the young plants grow.
Clumps of perennials that have been. undis-
turbed for three years or more should be lifted,
divided and replanted before they start into
growth. This is the time to root out from the
hardy borders all the quack grass and other in-
sistent weeds.
Of course, if you have no established plants
to divide, and don’t want to wait for perennials
from seed, there are always strong, healthy
plants to be bought from seedsmen and nursery
men—and right now 15 the time to get them into
the ground, too.
All tap-rooted plants are harder to transplant
than sorts with branching fibrous roots. Con-
sequently, in the vegetable garden don’t attempt
to move parsnips, long, tapering carrots, etc., un-
less it is absolutely necessary and then move only
the smallest of them. Similarly persimmons
among the fruits, and Magnolias and Cedars of
the ornamental trees, often feel the shock of mov-=
ing because it damages their central root system.
In all planting and transplanting, firm the soil
thoroughly around the roots of each plant.
Likewise in seed sowing, see that the soil is
brought closely in contact with the seed so that
it will keep them moist.
Unless you know you have an unusually rich
soil, give generous feeding. Spread manure be-
fore plowing or spading, work in a general
fertilizer, bone meal, or wood ashes, when fitting
the ground, and apply nitrate of soda or liquid
manure as the plants begin to grow.
In digging soil for a seed bed thrust the spade
or spading fork full depth almost vertically into
the soil, lift the lump, invert it, and, unless it is
broken by the fall, break it up by striking it
with the flat of the spade or thrusting the latter
through it. In other words see that it is broken
up. Then rake the soil smooth until the teeth
pass easily back and forth and the surface is free
of lumps, stones, litter, etc. Sow the seed with
little delay, before the soil packs or dries out.
Keep garden tools free from rust by (1) wiping
them clean after use, and (2) keeping all unpainted
metal surfaces smeared with some kind of heavy
oil or grease while the tool is not in use.
Cloth plant protectors, commonly made by
replacing the bottom of a shallow box like a flat
with muslin, are useful for shielding melons,
cabbages, and other plants from insect pests;
but handle them with care or the sheltered plants
may become weak and spindly, just as if kept too
long in a dimly lighted, excessively warm room.
Advertisers will appreciate your ««@ntioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
ee
ae
Marca, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 83
iS
MMMM OM ee
T_T nnn
EFA) Sted J pie initia Be
RE “4
OX-BARBERRY |
THE NEW HARDY EDGING
and DWARF HEDGE
EMM MMO CTO
Ornamental Evergreens $
igh, DELIVERED TO YOUR
2 ft. High. BGor == FOR
(Remittance to accompany order)
Collection includes 2 Arborvitaes, 2 White Spruces, 2
Colorado Blue Spruces, 2 Pines—all 2 ft. tall trees suitable
for general planting—of best quality, raised from seed at
Little Cree Farms
MMMM MM
T llustrating the hardy, healthy
stock grown at
Little Cree Farms
“After seeing your charming new little border shrub BOX-BARBERRY, Lordered
several thousand for the Greek garden borders. (Mr. Samuel Untermyer’s estate
Greystone.) Albert Millard, Superintendent.
A Distinct Novelty: Offered this Spring for
the First Time
BOX-BARBERRYV is a dwarf, upright form of the familiar Berberis
Thunbergii; it is perfectly hardy, thriving wherever Berberis Thunbergii
grows. It does not carry wheat-rust.
BOX-BARBERRY lends itself most happily to low edgings for formal gardens,
when set about four inches apart. It also makes a beautiful low hedge when
set 6 to 8 inches apart. The foliage is light green, changing in autumn to
dazzling red and yellow.
1 year, frame-grown, $20.00 per 100; $175.00 per 1000
_2 year, field-grown, 30.09 per 100; 250.00 per 1000
3 year, field-grown, 40.00 per 100; 350.00 per 1000
(50 at 100 rates; 250 at 1000 rates)
Available stock limited. Orders filled strictly in rotation received.
THE ELM CITY NURSERY CO., Woodmont Nurseries, Inc.
Box 191, New Haven, Conn. (Near Yale Bowl)
Our Catalogue, now read y, lists a comprehensive assortment of
choice Shade and Fruit Trees, Evergreens (including Taxus
cuspidata type), Shrubs, Vines, Roses, Hardy Plants. Cata-
logue mailed the day your rv equest ts received.
92 sr
Ng ates
“he
HOME GARDEN
E-L-D-SEYMOUR.
ARBORVITAE COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE
Why We Are Making This Unusual Offer
We have faith in our trees. They are our best salesmen. If
we can get you acquainted with our stock you will become an
enthusiastic tree planter. Why? Because owr trees live. 75%
of our annual business is with old customers,—the best evidence
that our trees and service please. We aim to add 1000 new
customers this year. To accomplish this we have made this
introductory offer small so that it 1s available to all.
Chhis¢2 Book “The HOME
GARDEN "by E.L.D.SEYMOUR
and choice a DA = RB
packages of
NOS
FOR n BETTER TARDENS
§ Beets Crimson Globe
Beets Early Egyptian 9
Cabbage All Seasons all or 9 oy
Carrots Danvers Half Long —
Carrots Oxhart or Guerande
Endive Green Curled
Tn Mu
TON
Kohl Rabi White Vienna This unusual offer is made for a limited time 20,000,000 Evergreen and Deciduous trees and shrubs of :
phe Pe eeceeded’simecon | avy, SO cee Sega e It is made ie oS sole : many varieties told about in =
Lettuce Trianon Cos purpose of inducing those who are not familiar E “The Book of 31 By =
Been aa Wethersfield with PAKRO Seedtape to try it. : Little Cree Farms /
Onion White Portugal
; PAKRO Seedtape is the new, scientific, easy way of plant- ILLUSTRATIONS Forwarded Free
ORL ea ay ing—the one way that insures even planting, and the fullest DESCRIPTIONS on Request
Parsnip Hollow Crown possible development of everything you grow. The seeds PRICES
Radish French Breakfast are accurately spaced in a tape of thin tissue and planted a =
per roe Ties eee White Tip whole row at a time. Practically no thinning out is neces- Sl ff
adis .
Ruta Baga Improved Purple Top sory. ; Only the finest ee puze winning seeds are used. By BRING THEM HERE FOR SOLUTION.
Spinach Long Standing acting a y 8 Tree
Swiss Chard Silver Leaf Choice of 25 of the 40 ten-cent packages ry OUR STAFF ENGINEERS AND LAND-
omare pees of PAKRO Seedtape listed on the left. \ Pro blem , 9) SCAPE SPECIALISTS ARE YOURS TO
Tomato Ponderosa A $2 book, *‘The Home Garden,” by VS COMMAND.
Tomato Stone E. L. D. Seymour, Associate Editor of
Turnip Purple Top Strap Leaf “Garden Magazine” ist and ‘‘Country
Alyssum Sweet Life in America.” Tells how to plant a Y 1
never Gren or Wate Mixed garden to secure the best results. It \ Little Tree Farms (Rear Boston)
Aster Semples Branching Mixed will make a valuable addition to your | NURSERIES OF
Balsam Double Mixed library. : e
Candytuft Mixed $4.50 worth in all for $2.00. $2.20 in Canada. Delivery A F tr C
Meee onsite Ceumalile er sweet charges prepaid. A handsome 4o-page catalogue. elaborately merican ores y om pany
Morning Glory Japan Mixed illustrated in colors, included in this offer free of charge. ‘This ae aes
Pansies Finest Mixed is the most beautiful catalogue of its kind ever published. Division K-1, 15 Beacon St, Boston, Mass.
Pinks oe Mixed Write TO-DAY.
3 7
Sweet Peas Mixed AMERICAN SEEDTAPE CO., 354 Ogden St., Newark, N. J.
Ss 2 ee
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
84 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Marcu,
1919
Good Planting
ae rh i
Pe ta =
training.
‘height.
Grow
GLADIOLI
FLOWERS ALL $ 1
SUMMER FOR
There is no flower that is so easily grown and
biooms so readily as the Gladiolus. The long
spikes are graceful and fascinatiny in their great
array of colors; if cut as first flower opens and
placed in water, the flowers develop for a week,
even to the last bud. Commence planting in
April and repeat at to-day intervals until end
of June, and you will have flowers until late
Autumn. Leaflet ‘‘ How to Grow” included
in each order.
“Homewood’’ Gladiolus
60 Fine Bulbs, Many Kinds Mixed FOR $1.00
MAILED FREE to customers within fourth
postal zone (600 miles) from Chicago or New
York. For further zones add 16 cents in stamps.
144-page catalogue mailed FREE everywhere.
‘As the Twig
is bent—’’
It’s an old adage and a true one. Beau-
tiful flowers and hardy plants can only
be obtained by proper cultivation and
|
Many plant supports have been put on
the market to do this training but they
were all ungainly and unsatisfactory in
many respects. At the same time they
were only temporary equipment.
for sale. They are simple in construction, contain- |
Adjusto Plant Supports
are the most practical plant support ever offered
ing no screws or nails, and adjustable to any
The stake is of the hardest wood and the
hoop of the strongest wire, both painted green. |
There’s no wearout to them and as a permanent
equipment are very reasonable in price. We guar-
antee them to give perfect satisfaction.
dealer does not have them in stock write us.
i
THE FORREST SEED CO., Inc. |
Box 40, Cortland, N. Y.
VAUGHAN’S SEED STORE
31-33 G Randolph Street- - - - - CHICAGO
41-43 G Barclay Street - - - - NEW YORK
If your
If you want the finest
DAHLIAS
send for our catalogue
SOMERHOUSEN DAHLIA GARDENS
Chestnut Hill Philadelphia, Pa.
4 GRAND GLADIOLI, 35c
Peace—Best white
War—Brilliant red }
Pendleton—Beautiful pink “
Schwaben—Best yellow “
One bulb of each, 35c 3 of each, $1.00
Post Prepaid, Catalogue Free
Brookland Gardens, Woburn, Mass.
Ree setting a tree or plant, trim off all broken
and bruised roots, then prune back the top enough —
to balance this root pruning. In the case of trees —
this means froma quarter to a half of the length of the —
branches. Two or three year old stock should have all —
but the three to five main branches cut out at this time; —
one year trees, as peach, may be pruned to a whip, that is
a single straight stem, the main branches to be selected
at a later pruning. Cut out all but three or four main
canes of bush fruits and head these back. In fall plant-
ing head back only a little, to prevent winter injury;
any excess growth or any frosted tips can then be
pruned off in early spring. ;
Set the plant straight, spread out the roots evenly,
and sift the good top soil around them, working it well
between them and firming it down frequently. Unless
it is thoroughly rotted, do not mix manure with this
soil as it may burn the roots if at all fresh. Better to
leave it on top as a mulch from which the fertility will
gradually seep down to the roots. Fill with bottom
soil, tramping firmly several times. Do not heap the
soil up around the plant; if anything leave a slight
Quite obvious, isn’t it that mounding sheds water away from
the roots?
depression to collect moisture. After firming and lev-
elling the surface, sprinkle on a little loose dirt or a
mulch of manure or litter to check evaporation. Or-
dinarily in planting dormant stock in early spring, no
water need be added; otherwise pour a gallon or two
around each plant after the roots are covered, but not
on the surface.
If there is any danger of injury to the trunk by mice
or rabbits, protect each tree with a guard of wire, wood
veneer or building paper, stood, not wrapped, tightly
around it.
The After Care of Perennials -
[peieees a plant is known to be hardy, give it a light,
loose mulch the first winter after itis planted. Put
this on after the ground has frozen and see that it does
not become water soaked and matted down, when it
is practically useless as far as preventing the alternate
freezing and thawing of the soil is concerned.
When it becomes necessary—and not until then—
lift the plants, divide them with a large knife or sharp
spade, loosen and enrich the soil, and replant the sep-
arate pieces of root or tuber. A rough grouping of
plants on this basis is 4
Divide yearly—a_ few strong-spreading, _shallow-
rooted, easily established species, such as Bellis pe=
rennis, Pompom Chrysanthemum, etc.
Divide every 2 years—Phlox maculata, Monarda,
and some others. \
Divide every 3 years—Asters, Helianthus, Phlox
decussata, etc. ;
Divide every 4 years—Spring-flowering bulbs, Con=
vallaria majalis, etc.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Marcu,
1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
85
=
a
“‘Best Weed
Killer Ever Used’’
Here, folks, is the machine you
have always wanted—one that you
can go over the garden with as fast
as you can walk, killing the weeds
and mulching the soil at one oper-
ation.
BARKER
Weeder, Mulcher and Cultivator
Eight reel blades revolving against a sta-
tionary knife (like a lawn mower), destroy
the weeds and at the same time break up
the clods and crusted surface into a level,
moisture-retaining mulch. Gets close to
plants. Guards protect leaves. Cuts
runners.
Used after every rain, it keeps the soil in
the best possible growing condition. Works
so fast and easy that you'll always enjoy it.
A boy can do more and better work witha
BARKER than ten men with hoes.
FREE Book and Factory-to-User Offer.
The BARKER is made in 5 different sizes.
Our free book explains its principle, shows
the machine at work and gives valuable
information about gardening. Write for
it to-day.
BARKER MFG. CO.
David City,
Blades
BARKER MFG. CO.., Dept. 11, David City, Neb.
Gentlemen—Send me postpaid your free booklet
and Factory-to-User Offer.
TAA
] Model 83 D
8} in. wide
Li
» WZ
SWE Cam Te
IT’S COLD FRAME TIME
Send Your Order—Here Are the Prices
You know how absolutely necessary cold frames are, if you want an early garden — so
there is no use of our dwelling on that.
You also know what our reputation is, as greenhouse builders for over half a century.
You know that surely no one makes any better frames — few as good.
So there is only one thing for you to do — to order them.
We will see to it that they are shipped promptly. When we say promptly, we mean
exactly that.
SIZES AND COST
Four Sash Standard Frame
Equipped with Single Glazed Sash
A good all-round size. Each
sash 3x6 feet. Depth of frame
in front, 8 inches; at the back,
16 inches. é
Cypress is 13 inches thick.
Price, f.0.b. Factory $35.49
3 Sash Standard Frame 27.79
2 Sash Standard Frame
19.88-
Junior Frames
Equipped with Single Glazed Sash
Somewhat smaller than the
Standard. Very easy to handle.
Can be used in limited spaces
where the Standard will not
quite fit. Sash is 34 inches by
383 inches. Frame 8 inches
high in front, 12 inches in back.
Cypress is 1 inch thick.
Prices, f. o. b. factory.
1 Sash Frame
2Sash Frame. .
3 Sash Frame .
4Sash Frame. .
Booster Boxes
Handy little frames to set
over single plants; 11 by 124
inches. 4 inch cypress securely
bolted together by cast iron
corner cleats. You can have
_ 10 of them for so little as $6.50.
Jord @Bjuriham@.
Builders of Greenhouses and Conservatories
SALES OFFICES
Irvincton New YorK _ Carcaco RocHESTER CLEVELAND Toronto
New York 42nd St. Bldg. Continental Bank Bldg. 29 Avondale Park 1316 Ramona Avenue Royal Bank Bldg.
Montreat: Transportation Bldg.
FACTORIES—Irvington, N. Y.; Des Plaines, Ill.; St. Catharines, Ontario
NATIVE RHODODENDRONS AND KALMIAS
in Carload Lots, at Reasonable Prices
Our collectors have secured a splendid lot of Rhododendron maximum and
Laurels, in specimen plants, for spring delivery. These are the ideal
hardy broad-leayed Evergreens for massing or grouping under
trees or along borders. Get our prices NOW.
Write for Free Catalogue
Describes our general line of fruits and ornamen-
tals which will be found complete in every re-
spect. Please ask for your copy to-day.
The Morris Nursery Company
1123 Broadway, New York City
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
SONA
BEE MAN
The One-Horse
Tractor
Solves
the Help
Problem
—Replaces
the Horse
F.0.B.
Factory
Means Suburban
Independence
Tt Cultivates
One wide row —one or three narrow rows—at one time. It
enables one man to do the work of two or thee under old
methods.
Zé Plows and Harrows
—does more than ahorse because it works faster
and never gets tired. Does all the work ordinarily
done with
one horse
ORD EY,
hand.
Costs less
to keep
than a
horse.
Entirely replaces
the horse.
Runs a washing machine,
chum, pump, grinder, etc.,
trots from job to job under its
own power, proves useful the
year round. ‘Eats only
when it
works.”
lakes the suburbanite independent of help and power
ities.
Interesting booklet free. Write for it and name of nearest
dealer, who will demonstrate the Beeman,
Beeman Garden Tractor Company
337 Sixth Avenue South
Minneapolis, Minn.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
As Others See It
Until the next garden season is actively under
way, it is never too late to recall worthy achieve-
ments of the growing season just passed. One of
these was the home garden campaign in Tennes-
see, where in twenty-four cities there were
598,550 gardens totalling 4,192 acres. ‘The city
of Memphis accounted for 29,912 of these gardens
and 1,028 of the acres: Knoxville had 10,000
gardens, Nashville 8,000, and Chattanooga
5,000. It was this tremendous increase over
results of past years, together with the greater
care that these gardens ‘received and their nat-
urally increased productivity that helped to
make the Tennessee cities so nearly self-support-
ing, so far as vegetables were concerned, during
the dark days of war.
Currants and White-pine Blister Rust.—
Another gratifying discovery in the field of plant
pathology is that the rust which has appeared
on currants in Colorado and other Far Western
states is not, as was feared, the White-pine blister
rust, but a relatively harmless form. ‘This fact
supplies the final testimony needed to prove the
entire Far West and all the Southern states free
of the serious true blister rust. Indeed, through-
out all the states west of the Mississippi River
two years of organized search have found the
disease only in fifty-two locations in Iowa,
Minnesota, and South Dakota. East. of the
Mississipp1 the disease is generally distributed
beyond hope of general eradication in New Eng-
land and eastern New York, where it is being
controlled locally by the destruction of the al-
ternate host. In New Jersey and Pennsylvania
it is under control, having been eradicated in
eight separate places. In the other North At-
lantic and Central states it has been found in
nineteen localities during the last six years.
But taking all the central states as a group (in-
cluding the three mentioned above) it has been
eradicated from sixty-eight out of the seventy-
one localities, which indicates with considerable
certainty that the disease can and will be con-
fined to the eastern border of the country, if
not for ever, at least for many years to come.
Hats Off to the Garden Clubs.—One of the
larger results of garden-club work—the sort
of result that puts a round peg in a round hole
and benefits all concerned—is illustrated by the
experience during the last four years of a young
Italian boy in a Massachusetts manufacturing
district. It was while he was in the eighth erade
that his father told him that he could no longer
go to school but must set about earning money in
a nearby factory. However, as a samarnnlbie of a
local garden club he had been getting pretty good
results and, claiming that he could make more
money raising potatoes outside of school hours
than by giving full time to factory work, he per-
suaded his father to let him try that method of
meeting his expenses. He was so successful that
the next fall he was allowed to enter the ninth
grade and continue his studies. The following
spring the school superintendent gave him a
bigger piece of land and in order to cultivate it
he enlisted the help of ten schoolmates to whom
he paid regular wages and gave garden plots of
their own as well. By another fall he decided
that he could make enough by gardening to pay
his way through high school and, later, an agri-
cultural college. How justified he was in this
expectation is suggested by the fact that he is
now a junior in high school and has a good-sized
hot house under lease where he raises cabbage,
cauliflower and tomato plants; he also owns an
auto truck with which he markets his produce
in summer; he has a bank account in his own
(Continued on page 88)
Marcu, 1919
AMERICAN-GROWN
RES
Shrubs and
Plants
OUR ability to supply trees,
shrubs and plants of the high-
est quality is not curtailed by
the stoppage of foreign shipments.
Buy nursery stock ecomm at
Andorra.
Andorra
Nurseries
Wm. Warner Harper, Prop.
Box 100
Chestnut Hill
Phila., Penna.
Our Catalogue,
“Suggestions for
Effective Planting’’
on request.
Strawberries
Everbearing and Other Kinds
Also headquarters for Raspberries, Blackber-
ries, Currants, Gooseberries, Grapes, Aspara-
gus, Fruit Trees, Roses,Shrubs, Seed Potatoes, Eggs
for Hatching, Crates, Baskets, etc. 35 years’ expe-
rience. Catalogue free. Write to-day, address
2 J. FARMER, Box 829, Pulaski, N. Y.
eautify your home. Plant Hill’s Evergreens.
We are evergreen specialists, not only in grow-
ing but in planning artistic effects. Prices low-
st—quality considered. Don’t risk failure—
a Get Hill’s Free Evergreen Book. Write to-day
(| Expert advice /ree/
Evergreen Specialists
4 D. Hill Nursery Co.,
Dundee, Il. _
Box 1064
ORCHIDS
Largest importers and growers of
OrcHIpS in the United States
Send twenty-five cents for catalogue. This amount will be refunded
on your first et
AGER & HURRELL
Orchid Paes and Importers SUMMIT, N. J.
GROWN IN NEW JERSEY
under soil and climate advantages, Steele’s
Sturdy Stock is the satisfactory kind.
Great assortment of Fruit, Shade, and Evergreen
Trees, Small-fruit Plants, Hardy Shrubs, Roses,
etc. Fully described in our Beautiful Illustrated
Descriptive Catalogue—it’s free!
STEELE’S NURSERIES, Palmyra, N. J.
PRIMROSES
That everyone may have a chance to
add a collection of the charming Eng-
lish Primroses to their gardens, we are
making the following offer for February
only: 1 each of Polyanthus Munstead,
Primula Bulleyana, capitata, cortu-
soides, denticulata, frondosa, Japonica,
Poissoni, pulverulenta, Mrs. Berkeley
and Red Hugh, amounting to over $5.00
for $3.00. All year old roots.
Do not miss this opportunity. We
want every one to become acquainted
with the beauty of Primroses.
Wolcott Nurseries, “j¢,7 2a:
Jackson, Michigan
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Marcu, 1919
7 co« cnn
Be kinc
Efficiency
is assured with Leonard’s Seeds and
the Perfection Cultivator for correct
cultivation, which kills weeds,
aérates the soil and conserves the
moisture. This is done in the
- easiest manner with the
Perfection Cultivator
The lightest cultivator on the market,
hence easy to operate. A perfect machine
to do the job of cultivating completely; it
cuts the weeds, pulverizes the soil, throws
the soil to or from the rows. _ Leaf-lifters
prevent injury to plants. A simple change
of bolts automatically adapts the machine
to shallow or deep cultivation, deep for use
on loam or shallow cultivation on heavy
clay. Of simplest construction and strong
est workmanship.
Any of 3 Sizes, $3.50 each
No: 1, with two discs, on which 6 inch or 7 inch
knives may be used, will work rows, 9 to 11 inches
e
No. 2, with four discs for use with 744 and 81% inch
knives, will do the work between rz to 14 inch wide
rows. =
“nl
No. 3, with four discs, and 11 inch knives, works 13
to 16 inches wide.
|
|
Satisfaction guaranteed or money refund-
ed. Order to-day—don’t fight weeds the old-
fashioned way. Descriptive circular free as is
also our catalogue of seeds for present
planting.
Leonard Seed Co.
226-30 W. Kinzie St. Chicago, Ill.
_ mi AAA i.
wi
i
‘DWARF APPLE TREES
DWARF PEAR TREES
DWARF PLUM TREES
DWARF CHERRY TREES
DWARF PEACH TREES
Catalogue Free
N THE VAN DUSEN NURSERIES
N C.C. McKAY, Mer. Box G, Geneva, N. Y.
| LEZ TET TTT TET EL: ULL LLL LLL LLL
IR | S By the Million
For the Million
“Oh the Springtime is coming
And the merry month of May
Soon the-meadows will be blooming
With the Flowers fresh and gay.
But don’t depend on the meadows, have flowers
right under your windows and plenty of them.
We sell Iris at prices rangi ng from 15 cts. to $1.00
each. 12 for the price of 10. Mixed (without names) $1.00
per doz.; $5.00 per 100.
A postal card brings price list
GEO. N. SMITH Wellesley Hills, Mass.
“f
N
sy
THE
S
a
WON
.
KW
NS
SS
/
-
LET US SEND TO YOUR GARDEN
MEE Ve OVEL YS ELOWERS
OF OLD ENGLAND
Add to your garden favorites, the famous
flowers grown from Sutton’s Seeds.
\
\\
\
Send to either of our American agents for the
catalogue; make your selections from among its
listing « of choice varieties.
Send back your order to them and they will
at once send it to us.
We will as promptly send the seeds direct
from over here.
WS
S
English seeds sent to you from England.
All of which (writing and sending), is likely
to take at least three weeks. Which fact prompts
us to suggest your acting at once, so the seeds
will reach you in ample time.
Send 35c. for the catalogue. With $5. pur-
chase of seeds, the 35¢ will be promptly refunded.
Tae SHERMAN T. BLAKE CO.
Aw AASIOUY a20-G SACRAMENTO STREET
SAN Francisco, CAL.
Royal Seed Establishment Sole Agents West of the
READING, ENGLAND
Ss
KW
.
N
xX
SW
WS
a
H. P. WINTER & CO.
64- {CA ae peuueEt
Sole eee East of the
Rocky Mountains Rocky Mountains
S
x
sawwouni WOODRUFF ’S GL ADIOL TT
Here are two good offers. First: 13 Fine sorts, one
each, for $1.00, viz.: America, Burrell, Empress India,
Geo.Paul, Liebesfeuer, Loveliness, Niagara, Pendleton,
Pink Perfection, Satisfaction, Queenly, Lillian, Peace,
Velvet King (worth $1.50). Second: One each, Mrs.
King, PRINCE of WALES, Goliath, Mrs. G. W.
Mou!ton, Red Emperor, Europa, Ghee Eve-
lyn Kirtland, Electra, TITANIC, Eldorado and 3
Primulinus Hybrids—a rare collection—for $1.50.
Both lots postpaid, with my catalogue of about 140
sorts and mixtures.
A few other things, too. POTATO SEED. Will
produce 50 new sorts potatoes, 15c pkt.
GEO. S. WOODRUFF
INDEPENDENCE IOWA
Mention The GARDEN
Have you a place in your garden for
Six each Pink Gladioli America, Panama, Halley,
Pink Perfection, prepaid for
Six each White Gladioli, Glory of Holland, Peace,
Europa, Lily Lehmann, prepaid for
Six each Red aladiols Empress of India, Princeps,
Frederika Wigm War, prepaid for
Six each Yellow Gladioli, Schwaben, iarateess, Nia-
gara, Golden King, prepaid for
Six each Bicolored Gladioli, action! Mrs. F.
Pendleton, Rouge Torch, Glory, prepaid for . .
One each hardy Phloxes, Frau A. Buchner, Pan-
theon, Sieboldii, Jules Cambon, Europa, Rosen-
berg, M. P. Langier, prepaid for
We; grow acres of finest florist’s strains of Aster, Berane
Scabiosa, Salvia, Perennial seeds and plants, Gladioli,
Roses, and other good things for the flower garden.
Hundreds of professional florists have used our products
for years. If we can please your florist we can please you.
Write for price list to
RALPH E. HUNTINGTON
OT
Sg AANA
Painesville, Ohio
iz
SHIMON
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
GARDEN MAGAZINE 87
i Pe Sat 2 Tt Sw ay
88 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE Mase on Conte
DREER S
GARDEN BOOK:
Is An Encyclopaedia of all Things
Pertaining to Vegetables, Flowers,
Plants, and Garden Tools
(Continued from page 86)
name; and he owns at least one Liberty Bond.
Not only is he carrying out his plans for his own
education, but also he is helping his brothers
and sisters along the same road. The neigh-
boring factory has perhaps lost in him a worker
of average ability; but the country has gained a
highly efficient food producer and a potential
educated citizen of real worth—and all as the
result of a garden club stimulus.
~
a The Free Seed Joke.—The annual report
of the Chief of the U. S. Bureau of Plant Indus-
try says that “During the fiscal year 1918 there
were distributed on congressional and miscellane-
ous requests 11,165,709 packages of vegetable
seed and 2,188,818 packages of flower seed
nae each containing 5 packets of different
kinds of seed. There were also distributed
12,473 packages of lawn-grass seed and 11,110
ackages of improved Narcissus and Tulip bulbs.
he seeds and bulbs were purchased on com-
petitive bids, as heretofore. Each lot of seed
was thoroughly tested for purity and viability
before acceptance by the department, and tests
of each lot were conducted on the department’s
trial grounds to determine trueness to type.”
Recalling the crop of criticisms of, and protests
against, the congressional free seed distribution
policy, that springs up every year just as surely
as the early Dandelions, it would seem as though
either the department’s tests were inaccurate, or
the seed samples were unrepresentative, or the
methods of the recipients of the gift seed who
fail to make it grow, were careless in the extreme.
What is the answer? At all events the “distribu-
tion” is of no practical value—even in catching
votes!
Four splendid color plates reproducing some of
Dreer’s specialties in Vegetables and Flowers and 224
superbly illustrated pages of practically all the Vege-
tables and Flowers worth growing.
Every Grower of Vegetables
and Every Lover of Flowers
will find Dreer’s Garden Book brim full of valuable information
—just the things they must know in order to make their garden
a sure success.
Douglas Spruce.—Now that plans are being
made for spring planting I would like to call
attention to the effect of the winter of 1917-1918
on the Douglas Spruce. I had one planted at
the foot of a hill, western exposure, about eight
feet high and five inches through at the ground,
set out in 1913. This was killed down about one
third its height. Another, smaller but set out
at the same time, with a northeast exposure was
entirely killed. Neither tree had made any un-
usual growth the past season but were healthy,
fine specimens. ‘The lowest temperature of the
winter was ten degrees below zero and snow
covered the ground from December 8th to the
same time in February. Other evergreens near
HENRYA DREER a ie Ti A 7 ¥ mS by were not affected—Biota varia, several Re-
4 ° s Lae. $ Oe dN tinisporas, Arborvitae, Rhododendrons, Azaleas,
714-716 Chestnut Street g Wontar tid | etc. It would be interesting £2 Knee if othe
‘ ; had a like experience with the Douglas Fir.—
Philadelphia, Pa. ii, Ib, ocd, 7
—It would be interesting to know the origin of
the plant that suffered. Seed gathered from
IRISES and YELLOW LILIES | the higher regions gives hardy stock. With us
Famous experts in Vegetable and
Flower growing have contributed special
cultural directions and have told how
to plant, when to plant, and what
to plant. Follow their advice and your
1919 garden should be the envy of your
neighbor.
A copy of Dreer’s Garden Book will be mailed free
to any one mentioning this publication.
STRAWBERRY PLANTS that GROW 1 Each of 12 Broad-leaved Irises $1.00 the Douglas has successfully withstood all kinds
Best June and Fall-Bearing Strawberries at 6 Each of 12 Broad-leaved Irises 4.00 of tests when even native evergreens have suffered
3 ? s 2 1 Each of 4 Siberian Irises 50 h Ed
Reasonable Prices. Also Raspberry, Black- 6 Each of 4 Siberian Irises 2.00 somewhat.— Ld.
’ J a a 1 Each of 5 Yellow Day-lilies 1.00
VY: et and eee Plants in Assort 1 Each of 2 Eulalias and 1 Calamus 50 Control of Leaf-rollers.—Excellent progress
PEN. atalogue aes Price includes postage. For rates on larger quantities see in the campaign for the control of the pest on
C. E. Whitten’s Nurseries, Box 10, Bridgman, Mich. price-list. A postal card will get it for you. strawberry, blackberry, raspberry and other
CRON OG OO EN SARE Ene Careerville "Me: related fruit-bearing plants of the rose family is
reported by the U. 5. Department of Agriculture,
HE only pruner following spraying experiments with arsenical ;
{ PRUNING SHEAR EE poisons. In lowa and Kansas, single applica-
f } 6 OUBA =a made that cuts from tions of such a poison destroyed two thirds of
=a both sides of the limb the pests in the test gardens, and a season of
and does not bruise the careful work resulted in a saving of at least fifty
) per cent. of the crop.
bark. Made in all styles
and sizes. All shears de- |
———. , livered free to your door. |
SUM 0., =
527 S, DIVISION AVE., GRAND RAPIDS, MICH. Ses Write for circular and prices
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Marca, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 89
O9—— @ Pg S4— a — 60508 — 0 0 —— £7 — 9-89 ——_ 09a
Re A) — ee cs—% e: \a——&, €::2 oH (0
= GOS5>—— Co —— 0G —_ Cu — 6a
i=
e9;
Cy
2 l
’ ismore than satisfaction and delight in on >
the possession of something beautiful.
=
ee
: |
Sure bloom roses in your own gar- ll | ry
den enable you to express affection | lal |
or sympathy to others, spontaneously Pe) 5
— inexpensively.
A Bed of Harrisons’ Peonies — Hardy Perennials, Easily Grown
‘ PLANT FOR BEAUTY -
=f
—@—
-7 OU can enjoy the delights of landscape gardening whether your domain be large
or small. Flowering Shrubs are especially useful in giving variety and interest
to small plantings. Tall shrubs make good screens. Low ones contrast with
Evergreen backgrounds and soften the lines of buildings.
9 @
ON & SONS PROPRIETORS b,
2
Each Conard star size rose plant bears
a STAR tag, the gwarantee-to-bloom, or
we replace—part of our original and
successful STAR ROSE SERVICE.
Roses are our specialty. Fifty years of
CL
e2
Ci?
e@ 4
9:
experience with roses back the Conard <% ce
guaranty of bloom and make it fact, not
theory or chance. When you buy Conard
roses you have the greatest possible in-
surance against disappointment.
—— ©
uy)
““The World’s Greatest Nurseries ”’
offer a wide variety of successful Flowering Shrubs. The long, graceful branches of
the ever-popular Bridal Wreath (Spirea Vanhouttei) bear festoons of lovely white
e
Ye!
re
ae none tee =| ale Caen of nang Gi blossoms. Another beautiful shrub is the Weigela. Ge
onard roses, take advantage or this —— We offer it in two colors—white, and pink. ey
(
Mock Orange and Deutzia also add charm to any lawn.
Special MARCH Offer
We have plenty of stocky Norway Maples and Ever-
Three strong Conard Rose Plants, each a & - ;
: ; o greens at prices that are right. All our Evergreens are
queen of its color: wip dug with “root balls” and wrapped in burlap without
cahela. — exquisite blush F By Eases Fest lf extra charge. . S:
en. McArthur — intense re .00 C.0. D. Standard and Dwarf Fruit Trees. Our Apple,
Duchess of Wellington—rich yellow postage extra a React ee Pear Trees are budded fGen om af
(For other sizes see Catalogue) OO lected bearing trees. ~~ & S
, wy
STAR ROSE SERVICE also supplies you PSE | genes and many more sane duly ides; S oe
ry
car
cribed in our 1919 Catalogue. Send -
with free 52-page Catalogue and (until March for it —now:
31) with Special List showing right selection for | 4
your particular section — if requested. ue HARRISONS’ NURSERIES ie Zo
Pak Box 56, Berlin, Md. S ee %
——— ©
Cai. * EST GROVE
& Jones Co. Box24 Pa. Use This Coupon—
—@.
Ropert Pye, President Antotne WINTzER, Vice-Pres. ; < F
Rose Specialists Backed by 50 Years’ Experience ©, Mail It Today S RO & ere L aA a
fi SSE CRISS yl ee
NOSTRIN ea King as Re Y WA y 2
of Shade Trees LS AO Ba ’ Za
a & SY ‘ 7,
DAHLIAS
Grown from the newest and best varieties
introduced by prominent growers from all
parts of the world. The new Peony Dahlia
“Fiery Cross’’ is now offered for the first time. I grow ; e ¢
Dahlias exclusively and have been awarded many note” TE ke Oy Bet
premiums at The American Dahlia Society Shows in Se : - Pe sz eS
Boston and New York. i .
e
Send for my catalogue describing four hundred of the Big Luscious Berries
best varieties.
Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants and Gooseberries
C. LOUIS ALLING par excellence. Lovett’s Red, White and Blue Grapes are the best
Dahlia Specialist hardy Grapes in existence. Our Catalogue No. 1 tells all about them. Init are also
described and offered a full line of Fruit Trees, Ormamental Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Roses,
251 Court Street West Haven, Conn. Nut Trees, Hedge Plants and Garden Roots. Send for it to-day—it is FREE.
J. T. LOVETT, Inc. Box 125 Little Silver, N. J.
U ™ Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
90
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Marcu, 1919
Michells $1 Vegetable Garden
HENRY F MICHELL CO.
518 MARKET ST. PHILA.
D
“
Ye
Sh
Io.
Il.
12.
contains
Tells what, when and how to plant.
dependable seeds, plants, implements and
garden aids of all sorts.
your copy—FREE.
Grow your own vegetables, pick
them fresh when needed—it pays
best if you use Michell’s fresh tested
seeds.
trial, we will send for a dollar a
liberal sized package of each of these
12 Most Profitable Varieties
To induce you to make the
Swiss Chard, Giant Lucullus.
Peas, Michell’s Harvester.
Onion, Michell’s Winter Keeper.
Corn, Golden Bantam.
Beans, Fordhook Bush Lima.
Beans, Michell’s Improved Strain String-
less Green Pod.
Lettuce, Michell’s Allright.
Beet, Michell’s Ideal.
Radish, Cardinal
Strain. .
Carrot, Michell’s Orange Beauty.
Tomato, Michell’s Crackerjack.
Beans, Boston Navy (for winter).
Globe
Improved
Postpaid anywhere in U. S. Safe delivery
guaranteed.
Michell’s Seed Book
160 pages, profusely illustrated.
Lists
Write to-day for
is the simplest form of fruit raising. Vines grow
anywhere, no trouble to prune. Fruit delicious
and plentiful.
Hubbard’s Grape Catalogue for 1919
tells how to select sorts for home planting, how to care for
the vines, how to use the fruit. Send fora copy.
T.S.HUBBARD CO., Box 18, Fredonia, N.Y:
a as LLANES MELE Aol dn Tape
Ee OO ROE:
THE “RIGHT
suitably planned ?
Tested
den proves productive to the limit of every acre.
Yea
a
a4
2,
2
eS
TEAC
SUNS
102-106 Chamber of Commerce Building
Branch of James Carter & Co., London,
SN
Ww
STE
WER
FY OLY ELMO
VAMP OS
rast sii punplecsbolis
LEER SE oN AEA INNS
A Deughter of the Land
By Gene Stratton-Porter
A real flesh-and-blood story of American womanhood
Net, $1.50.
What’s a house—no matter how attractive—unless
the Gardens amid which it is set are equally attractive and
And do you know how much of the
Garden beauty and effectiveness are due to—The Seed ?
baiting
Seecht.
These Seeds, the results of many years of selecting and testing,
produce harmonious, beautiful, and healthy Gardens.
Carters Tested or Pedigreed Seeds are used, the Flower Garden pre-
sents healthy growth and beautiful color blending; the Vegetable Gar-
Carters 1919 Catalogue ‘“‘Garden and Lawn” sent on request.
CARTERS TESTED SEEDS Inc.
Boston, Mass.
England
Wherever
Doubleday, Page & Co.
“Glass” Made Easy Money
OR many years past I have been grow-
ing vegetable and flower plants in the
springtime for my own use and the
surplus for my friends and neighbors.
A year ago last spring I had several ‘‘flats” of
tomato plants standing in such a position that
passersby could see them. One afternoon two
ladies came into the yard and asked me if I sold
them; upon being informed that I did not they |
asked if I would make an exception and let them
have a dozen, which I did and for which I charged
them thirty cents a dozen. As I had quite a
number of plants more than I needed both for
myself and friends an idea struck me to place a
small sign on the arbor offering tomato plants
for sale. In just four days after placing that
sign every plant was gone!
At that time I had a small glassed-in “box,”
as I called it, under the back porch which I made
myself by removing the lattice work usually
put in such places and substituting glass, utilizing
the heat from the cellar. After my success in
the spring of 1917, I became emboldened and
last spring I grew one thousand tomato plants
together with cabbage and lettuce in “flats.”
All these plants were started in the “box” and
after being transplanted in other flats were then
placed in coldframes. I made it a point to pro-
perly “harden” these plants so that they could
be planted outside much sooner than would be
possible with plants from a greenhouse or cold-
frame. Well, I sold every one of those plants
together with seventy-five Geraniums and a
number of other bedding flower plants. My
seed cost me $1.25 and the bedding plants did
not cost me anything as they were all made from
cuttings from plants which I had on hand. Al-
together I took in $67 for plants last spring so
you can easily see what my profits were.
I had always grown for exhibition Chrysan-
themums for my own amusement, but last spring
I started three dozen instead of the usual dozen.
As I understand the method of growing them I
have always had complete success. I paid
special attention to three of these plants last
summer and grew them as one would for exhibi-
tion purposes. I made wire frames in the shape
of an umbrella each three feet in diameter and
three feet high from rim of pot. The varieties
were Tiger, Dr. Enguehard, and Wells Late
Pink; one of each. Each of these plants carries
from forty (Wells Pink) to seventy-five (Tiger)
large flowers. I recetved permission from our
local druggist to place them in his window and
they were only there three days when I sold the
three for $15. The remaining twenty-seven
plants which were grown in six inch pots and
carried from three to six blooms I readily dis-
posed of at from $1 to $2 each. In all I received
$52 for my thirty Chrysanthemums. That
made $119 which I received by combining a
little business with pleasure.
Last September I built a “lean to” green-
house against the south side of my residence,
ten feet wide and fifteen feet long. In this
house (which is heated in very cold weather
with a small oil heater) I expect to grow
enough plants next spring to pay my taxes,
insurance, and water rates.
I might add that I have grown all kinds of
tomatoes; but there is one which for the average
home garden has certainly gone “over the top”
with me and that is the Livingston Globe. It
is in a class by itself; being almost blight proof
and as early as Earliana and continuing to bear
until frost. As for lettuce just try a few heads
of Burpee’s Way-a-head if you want something
in the way of earliness and positive heading.—
W. H. Drescher, New Jersey.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Marcu, 1919 GARDEN MAGAZINE 91
gv = =:FPR = 2, = =) 0= == =— =
For $1.00
I willsend youa full packet each of
Six Wonderful
New Vegetables
Summer Asparagus
cropping from July until November.
Family Bean
producing pods 4 to 6 feet long.
Cabbage Santo Sai
combines lettuce and cabbage in one plant.
New Giant Cucumber
full grown fruit 18 in. long 2 in. thick.
Lettuce Little Gem
a lettuce guaranteed to head.
Tomato All Fruit
a single plant produces from 50 to 75 fruit.
Regular Catalogue Price $1.50
Full description of these and many others in the
best seed book ever published entitled ‘‘My
Garden Favorites’’; mailed free to all.
MAURICE FULD
Plantsman-Seedsman
7 West 45th Street New York
il NA
USE
WIZAKh
TRADE Als
CONCENTRATED PULVERIZED
MANURE
Superior quality—dried and sterilized
in high temperature driers—finely pul-
verized — unequaled natural fertil-
izer for lawn, fruit, vegetable or
flower garden. Makes big profits on
field crops because it gives the soil what it
needs to make things grow.
Ask for booklet, prices
and jreight rates to-day.
The Pulverized Manure Co.
20 Union Stock Yards
Chicago
All Your Garden
Toolsin One
Ideal for small gardens and truck
patches. With its several tools—
which are quickly interchanged—you
can plow, open furrows, cover them,
cultivate and hoe. The large wheel
and ‘‘double curve” —which is an ex-
clusive feature—elevate the
draft and make the
Leader Garden Plow
easier to operate than any other hand
toolonthe market. Readily adjusted
for adults or children—just the thing
for families where everyone helps in
; i kai i i |
This is the Silver- =e Linden
Three Wonderful Trees
for $20
or a Silver-Leaved Linden for $8
FURST let’s talk about the’silver-
leaved Linden, for it is surely the
Queen of all the shade trees.
Grows quickly. Is always shapely.
Free from diseases. Promptly makes
itself at home.
The dense, dark green leaves are lined
with a silvery sheen, that flickers in
variant charm, with every breath of
wind. If there is a handsomer, more
satisfactory shade tree in every
particular, must confess we don’t
know it.
We have some exceptionally fine ones,
with trunks 4 inches in diameter,
which, as you know, is the ideal
transplanting size. Every one is
straight, finely developed and healthy.
Separate ones from this choice collec-
tion, for so little as $8 each.
As a special concession to Garden
readers, we will sell one Silver-Leaved
Linden, a Norway Maple, and an
Oriental Plane; the three (each with
trunks 4 inches in diameter) for $20.
Separately $8. each.
There is a decided advantage in early
planting, which in turn, means early
ordering, which carries its own
suggestion for prompt action.
=|
= |=
=|
=
SN
LN
| =
=|
“Yhomas MEEHANE Soe i
Nurserymen @) Horticulturists,
Box 17, Germantown Philadelphia, Pa.
: e A
== == — oz = > = se == =>
o=
BABCOCK PEONY GARDENS
JAMESTOWN, N. Y.
R. F. D. No. 79
Have one of the finest collections of new and rare
Peonies, Iris, Gladiolus, Lilies and hardy plants in the
U.S. Brand's new American seedling peonies in good
A GUARANTEED ||_™=
[AWN fors|OO |gerrns
Three Ibs. of Scott’s Lawn Seed for this special
the garden. Your hardware dealer supply. Also “Rosette” and “Jeannot” (Desserts latest price, postage paid east of the Mississippi.
SEE TGE ee iene the ee ne introductions 1918). Our fine descriptive Catalogue Wheamerelatenteelititolerows) euarantee ibtoleo
price. tells you how to grow them. Send for it to-day, or to 25% farther than most Lawn Seed and to be any
amount freer from weed seeds, is all explained in our
booklet. It also tells How to Know Good Seed, How
to Get Rid of Weeds, How to Treat an Old Lawn and
Build a New One, etc. It alone is worth.the dollar
asked for the seed but is free. Send for it and price
of seed in large quantities.
SCOTT'S LAWN SEED
Ii it doesn’t come up your money comes back.
O.M.SCOTT & SONS CO. 43 Sixth St., Marysville, O.
The Leader Plow Company
become acquainted with our stock we offer
Staunton, Va.
8 Large Roots Peonies all different, named $2.00
12; “ “Tris < ° a 1.00
50 “ Bulbs Named Gladiolus, mixed 1.00
50 Mixed Narcissus or 10 fine Dahlias 1.00
If you send $5.00 for all the above collections we will
send you Free, 12 Superbum lilies.
Descriptive
folder sent
on request
Advertisera will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
=)
tS)
Beautify Your Home Grounds
At Very Moderate Expense!
HOUSE is something you sleep in—a home, some-
thing you enjoy life in.’”’ A real home is one
in which a restful atmosphere resides—a dwelling
setting amid beauty. And it is so easy to em-
bower any home with beauty. The work en-
tailed so slight—and so pleasant.
Look at the two homes here shown. See the
flowering beauty that $22.50 worth of Stark Bro’s
Ornamental Shrubs and Plants brought, for in-
stance. (Photo below, one year after planting.)
All these shrubs, vines, flowering plants that we
furnished were, like all Stark Ornamentals are, the
finest grade—big, strong, hardy, thrifty—the very
best nursery stock obtainable.
Write us for information about—
STARK BRO’S
Free Landscape Plans ©
which will show you how to beautify and increase the value
of your home and home grounds a¢ /ittle cost.
Just a simple planting, but it transformed this
house into a cozy home. _ The small investment of
$9.50 fea shrubs greatly increases its selling value.
Our graduate Landscape Architects will_ M@” _«:°*
gladly make special individual landscape
plans for your particular home + ge
grounds—Free of Charge. Write today SF 3 a
for Big Illustrated Landscape Book
and Ornamental Shrub and Tree Las 5
Catalog. Address Box 321.
Stark Bro’s Nurseries 2"
Largest and Oldestin America
Always at x
A home landscaped by Stark Bro’s—Photo o LOUISIANA, MO. 2% xis
one. 7 year after HEE $22.50 bought the sora Since 1816 y Os s e :
whic ramed this home wi owering beauty. -
y 4 oe eo re s
vA TO
A History of Italian Furniture
TMM
MOM OL
By WM.
M. ODOM
NET,, $70.00
TMU TU
MOS
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
i
Marca, 1919
THE *“*PENNFIELD-SPRING
LEVER’? CULTIVATOR
Does not crush the wheel into the ground, nor tire the wrists,
but the power from the momentum of the body is utilized
with the hand and forearm in a
natural powerful grip and
leverage, operating easily
at an even gait, by man
or woman. Complete
set of adjustable
steel hoes (83 inch
hook and ‘“V”
shaped) and 2
plows, _ right
and left for fur-
rowing, hilling
or ridging.
Utilizing the
belt brace one
who has lost
an arm or
hand can read-
ily operate a
Pennfield.
Made of best
materials. Or-
der NOW and
be ready for the
season. Crated for
shipment, ®138. 75.
Manufactured by — é
The J. M. Hartman Company, Box 322 B, nae Pa.
Get Our Landscape and ,
Home Beautifying Book F REE y A
BEAUTIFY YOUR HOME with
TASTY PLANTINGS
We furnish planting suggestions Free
3 Everblooming Hydrangeas, 5 Dwarf Deutzias,
5 Dwarf Spireas, 3 Weigelias, 5 Dwarf Barberry.
21 Hardy Shrubs, 2-3 ft., $10.00 with planting
plan.
Five 2 yr. Roses, $3.00 Postpaid.:
Cl. American Beauty, Cr. Rambler, Everbloom-
ing-Cochet (pink), Radiance (red), Mad. Plantier
(white). Guaranteed to bloom rst season.
Gardening “Manual” with each order FREE.
HORTICULTURAL GARDENS, Unadilla, N. Y.
GARDEN ROSES!
Dormant, two year old, field-grown,
budded stock of Hybrid Teas, Hybrid
Perpetuals, Teas, etc., in all the choicest
varieties, and Walsh’s world-famed
Climbers. Catalogue on application.
M. H. WALSH
Rose Specialist
Woods Hole
Kunderd’s Wonderful
New Ruffled Gladiolus
are the most beautiful in the world. No
others like them, none nearly so beautiful.
Finely illustrated 52-page catalogue free
for the asking. It describes nearly 300
varieties, all of our own production and
most of them obtainable only from us.
It also contains the most complete
instructions on the care and culture of
Gladiolus ever published. Let us send
you a copy.
Address the originator of the Ruffled Gladiolus
A. E. KUNDERD
GOSHEN, INDIANA
INT
Josselyn’s Wife
ATHLEEN NORRIS, in :
this exceedingly clever ,
and well written tale, contrasts :
two distinct types of woman-
hood—gentle, true-hearted
Ellen, Josselyn’s wife, with his
step-mother, a handsome, in- :
triguing, selfish woman. ¢
Loyalty to her husband and un-
bounded faith in Humanity at last
bring Ellen her reward after
months of heartache and agony.
At all booksellers.—Net, $1.50. {
Doubleday, Page & Company
Garden City New York
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Marca, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE.
No Waiting for Spring Thaws
Before Setting these Plants
5 ERE at The Terraces the climate
is cold enough to ripen all-hardy
plants, and to keep them dormant
until early spring. Yet the ground
is in such condition that
We Dig and Ship Fresh Plants
direct from the ground; there is no
need for cold storage or waiting for
spring thaws. It is an ideal time
for setting Hardy Plants along the
Pacific Coast, in the South, and
other mild sections.
My collection of Iris, Phlox, Holly-
hocks, Michaelmas Daisies, Even-
ing Primroses, and a host of other
plants, includes only the rarest and
most desirable varieties.
I pay postage or express charges to any part of the United States.
My Special Catalogue will be sent free to
all readers of Garden Magazine who ask for it. iz
CARL PURDY Box A, Ukiah, Cal.
THE GLADIOLUS
COLOR HARMONY and TINT BOOK
Like No Other Floral Catalogue You Ever Read
A Color Book Without Colors
“It points the way to still greater heights of beauty to be reached by
the use of this already beautiful flower.’"” By a NEW COLOR SYSTEM
it offers the cream of over 250 named American, Holland, French and
other varieties in such a way that you can make your selections in as
Many minutes as it previously took hours poring over ‘“‘long color
descriptions." Beautiful COLOR HARMONY COLLECTIONS (at
_ about one-half price) not obtainable elsewhere. The book is free. Bulbs
all our own growing from THE FARM 30 miles east of Brooklyn on
Long Island. Long Island soil is peculiarly adapted to growing these
bulbs. We would like YOUR OPINION of this book of 42 pages as to
its being the SOLUTION ofall floral coloring.
For free catalogue and book Address
B. F. STALNAKER, Box A., 1525 E. 15th St., Brooklyn, N.Y.
BEAUTIFUL DAHLIAS THAT BLOOM
For Season of 1919
Our favorite *‘Hard to Beat”’ dollar dahlia collection of 20 choice
double dahlias, including cactus, decorative, fancy, show and
paeony varieties, different colors, all named, and labelled, is a prize
winner. It will please you—try it. Sent postpaid anywhere on
receipt of price, $1.00. Write to-day for catalogue, it’s free.
ENTERPRISE DAHLIA FARM
Harry L. Pyle Atco, New Jersey
“A Little Book
About Roses”
A real catalogue—and more
—of real roses
TheRose-lover’s Annual Delight
Mailed
on
request
George H. Peterson
Box 50
Fair Lawn, N. J.
{
Rose and Peony
Specialist
Sw)
Y
<3
Moon’s Nurseries Helped Us
“A more barren, lonesome-looking place than this when we
came here you could scarcely:imagine.
We sent for MOON’S catalog to pick out the trees and
shrubs we thought of planting.
With the catalog we received a letter offering their services if
we needed them. We gladly accepted the help.
Our property became a home with an air of comfort and right
living—anasset to the community anda pride to possess and to
share with othets.”’ :
The hardihood and rich growth of MOON’S stock are un-
excelled and are the result of forty-seven years of nursery
experience.
MOON’S Hardy Trees, Shrubsand Plants for Every Placeand
Purpose.
THE WM. H: MOON COMPANY
Nurserymen
- Morrisville, Pennsylvania
On the Lincoln Highway—Midway between New York and Philadelphia
,
Re ss
echt ORIENTAL PLANE ees
ee A very good tree for a dl Pot-grown rose bushes, on own roots, for everyone
ASN street planting. Also sub- echt U5 anywhere. Plantany time. Old favorites and new
- 433 = aa, stantial and dignified for 7 wy u and rare sorts, the cream of the world’s pro-
Pe fa we i ductions. ‘‘Dingee Roses’’ known
ANS er Jaws parons large. Abun a3 as the best for 67 years. Safe de-
I & Spm ant shade. livery guaranteed anywhere in U. S.
ma! a Sek, NORWAY MAPLE Write for a copy of
PD see. .
mare Tobe i had d Our ‘‘New Guide to Rose
> iy Gives a fine shade, an J
aps A Fes) looks well on lawn or ave- Culture”’ for 1919. It’s FREE.
coy Ye} nue. Sheds its leaves late. Illustrates wonderful ““Dingee Roses” in
op a) a natural colors. It’s more than a cata-
“g\ atey oe h Som OL Be 2120 nes ‘be logue—it’s the lifetime experience of
Y eos ce ad 1m) any size. US WO the Oldest and Leading Rose Growers tn
as day for free catalogue. y Q) America, A practical work on rose and flower culture
for the amateur. Offers over 500 varieties of Roses and other plants,
bulbs and seeds, and tells how to grow them. Edition limited.
Established 1850, 70 Greenhouses.
The DINGEE & CONARD CO., Box 337, West Grove, Pa.
The Morris Nurseries
Box 804, West Chester, Pa.
. . . . . . . oa \ .
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in wriling—and we will, too
94 ‘
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Marcu, 1919
Bobbink © Atkins
“The estimable result of persistent effort”
ROSE BUSHES
Individually perfect—collection unparalleled
EVERGREENS, TREES AND SHRUBS, OLD FASHION
FLOWERS, FRUIT TREES AND BUSHES
All described in our catalogues—sent on
request
Visit Nurseries
fine lawn deserves a
: PENNSYLVANIA Quality
Mower; apoor lawn positively
needs one.
At all
ardware Dealers [7
and Seedsmen
Rutherford. New Jersey
[Nursery 6 Greg
| a
WE WANT YOU
to secure new subscribers to the World’s Work, Country Life
and The Garden Magazine in your town. Your spare time
thus invested will be profitable; liberal commissions. Address
CirculationgDept. :
Doubleday, Page & Company, Garden City, New York
SON
A List of
Krelage’s Dahlias, Gladioli
Begonias
and other home-grown bulbs for Spring plant-
ing will be sent free to applicants by
J. A. de VEER
100 William Street, New York
Sole Agent for E
U. S. for E. H. Krelage & Son, Haarlem, Holland E
Established 1811 E
E
le
~~ Worth While Sweet Peas
UR Sweet Peas are somewhat of a
mystery to our friends who cannot
understand how we manage to have a hedge
of Sweet Peas that has such dense green
foliage, that begins growth so early in the
spring, that grows faster and farther than other
Sweet Pea hedges, that is covered all summer
long with blossoms clustered four to eight
on a stem, and that stays green even after
the first frosts. But the greatest mystery
to the uninitiated ones is the fact that we
don’t have to plant our Sweet Peas every
year.
The solution-of, or rather the key to, the
mystery is that we have perennial or per-
petual Sweet Peas, Lathyrus latifolius. They
really aren’t Sweet Peas, for the vines are
larger and more thrifty and have .more
foliage and flowers, but the flowers do not
have the fragrance of the true Sweet Pea.
The main difference, however, is that they '
grow big and green all summer and until
freezing weather when they die down only
to come up as thrifty and as vigorous as ever
when the first warm days of spring come.
. Our gardenside row of perpetual or ever-
blooming Sweet Peas gives us far more
satisfaction than does our row of Spencers.
They bloom more and bloom longer than the
Spencers, the clusters of flowers are larger
‘and borne on longer stems, the individual
flowers are large and showy even though
lacking somewhat in fragrance, the vines are
heavier foliaged and make a better looking
hedge, and, best of all, we don’t haveto go
to the trouble of starting them every spring.
They’re already there and they start them-
selves. :
Perennial Sweet Pea seed can be purchased
like any other Sweet Pea seed from almost:
any seedsman. As the seed is rather slow in
germinating, soaking in water overnight before
planting hastens the appearance of the seed-
lings above ground.
During the first season not much top
growth is made, most: of the development
going on in the roots which often grow so
large and fleshy as to make transplanting’
practically impossible. The second summer,
however, the tops grow up strong and with
each succeeding summer become larger and
more vigorous. As with all Sweet Peas it is
necessary to keep the flowers picked if a
succession of bloom is wished. No particular
winter care is needed but a covering of
coarse manure is good.
For those who wish a beautiful and per-
petual hedge of Sweet Peas with the minimum
of expense and trouble, the perennial Sweet
Pea is the one to grow.
Morgantown, W. Va. R. E. Aten.
Farmogerm—A Testimony.—‘‘Useless to
try to grow Sweet Peas in poor dry soil” truly
and sagely say the experts; and. three years:
of utter failure fully convinced me. Last
spring, however, I read of farmogerm, and the
new methods of starting Sweet Peas in dirt
bands, and took courage to try once more. It
was mid-March before I had the inspiration
but the snow lay deep on the ground two weeks
after the seeds were inoculated and planted in
their little boxes. The inoculation was the
simplest of processes. ‘The seeds were soaked
in the farmogerm jelly the time prescribed on
the bottle (one hour, I think it was), dried
(Continued on page 96)
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Marca, 1919
a AL LA a i Lh hil,
Y 5 ‘2
NEW
EVERGREEN
LONICERAS
(L. pileata and L. nitida)
discovered by E. H. Wilson
now offered for sale by us.
In 4” pots $1.25 each
In 23” pots .60 each
We offer, also, for Spring
1919 delivery, pot-grown
plants of Cotoneasters,
Hardy Heathers, Bearberry,
and many other hardy
ground-covers, as well as
our usual Hardy Trees,
Shrubs and Herbaceous
Plants.
EASTERN NURSERIES, Inc.
Henry S. Dawson, Mgr.
Holliston
UL dddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddded@eeeqq@qqEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELEEEEEEt002;,
Yl
Mass.
SG 0 vy °v°> (ee ee e e% 6 > °° eee °° "> °° fe ~F~ "~~ WC; ; (—" CC (1:
SS
&
Two Wonderful Poppies >
< ONE is as big as a peony. Lasts a week in water. -
Grows vigorously. Blooms profusely. A new (Ss)
hybrid developed by. Mr. Schling.
THE OTHER is a wonderful tulip shaped poppy, in (ss)
a glorious sun kissed yellow.
One paper of each, and one of Schling’s giant sal- is)
piglossis, all for 50c, postage paid.
Send for Garden Lover's Book. Free.
MAX SCHLING, Inc.
24 West 59th Street New York
S
SOCSSSeSSSS8SoRs5
OMAN AACA
DAHLIAS
Of Distinction
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iis
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 95
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Ye
Japanese
Dogwood
pe only reason why this little
tree is not planted more freely
is that people are not familiar
with it.
From the latter part of May to almost
the middle of June the Japanese Dogwood is
covered with beautiful star-shaped snowy white
flowers. At blooming-time it is in full leaf, giving the
flowers a background which makes thern visible a half-a-mile
away. |
One of the Most Interesting
Flowering Shrubs of its Season
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The Japanese Dogwood blooms a month later than the American |
species, thus giving a succession of bloom. All summer long it
is beautiful, and in autumn the tree is covered with many straw-
berry-like edible fruits, which are not only interesting and
decorative, but are eagerly sought for by the birds that remain
over winter.
W;UVV HMMM
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\) Everyone who loves rare and dis- ph ene hoe N
\ tinctive trees and shrubs will add Japanese Dogwood \
\ this Dogwood to their plantings. ee ee N
= ; : N
\ Tenor ees eae or fifty, of ee 3 feet high $1.25 $10.00 $60. \
\ Japanese Dogwoods in a group by 4 feethigh 2.00 17.50 125. \
N themselves, or planted among N
\ cedars and pines or other ever- \
\ greens, will make one of the most charming nooks you can imagine. \
N A : i ; \N
\ ‘Home Landscapes’’ is the advice and experience of trained
\ landscape men and tree growers condensed to practical form. \
N Definite plans and suggestions are given for arranging trees, \
\ shrubs and plants. A copy of this valuable book will be mailed \
\ on request. \
\ \
N e 9 e N
|| Hicks’ Nurseries, Box M, Westbury, N. Y. |
\
\ \\
OM
You surely will want one of my
new $10.00 dahlias for 1919. The
=U. S.A.’ Also the new group,
“The Ten Sea Lions.” The price of
the Millionaire has been reduced to
$2.50 for 1919 and the Billionaire to
$5.00. Some corking new novelties
in my 1919 free catalogue.
Geo. L. Stillman
Dahlia Specialist
Westerly, Rhode Island, Box-C-9.
IA
The public is warned
not to purchase Mow-
ers infringing the
Townsend Patent No.
1,209,519 Dec. 10,
Townsend TRIPLEX
CUTS A SWATH 86 INCHES WIDE
Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, the
TRIPLEX will mow more lawn in a day than the
ee best motor mower ever
DS TRIPLEX. +
made; cut it better and at
a fraction of the cost.
It will mow more lawn than any
three ordinary horse-drawn mowers
with three horses and three men.
Write for catalogue illustrating all
types of Lawn Mowers
S. P. TOWNSEND & CO.
23 Central Avenue, Orange, N. J.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN -MAGAZINE
Marcu, 1919
Glavioli
SMILE—Nothing so contagious as a Smile
Try a GLAD SMILE for your garden
GLADIOLUS PLANTINGS
GLADIOLUS SUGGESTIONS
GLADIOLUS BOOKLET
Free upon request
B. HAMMOND TRACY, Inc.
BOX 27
_ Wenham.Mass - * ke ee ae Ke
A Hedge in Bloom
On the Highway
will make your home the most beau-
tiful in the country. Spirea Van
Houttei is the great plant for such
use. Start a hedge this spring.
5 Strong’Plants $1 Delivered
Set plants about 3 feet apart. Figure howmany
youneed. Sendusyourorder for early shipping.
Our 1919 Catalogue lists fruit and shade trees,
shrubs, evergreens, roses. Write to-day, free.
BAIRD & HALL
Althea Ave. Troy, Ohio
Mm
MH
Water Lilies and Water Plants
Form the Garden’s Central Charm
A small pool, with Lilies and taller growing water
plants, is both unusual and beautiful. Water, sun-
shine, and a little soil are all the plants require—
§ yet the pool is a source of perpetual delight and
beauty. Hardy Water Lilies may be planted in
April or May; tender varieties after the weather
is warm in late May or June.
Write now for booklet, listing varieties for growing in tubs
or pools; tell me the size of the pod} and I will help you select
the varieties that will give the bes®and most blooms.
WILLIAM TRICKER
Box E, Arlington, New Jersey
GIANT BEANS :30 inches long
A remarkable vegetable that bears GIGANTIC Stringless
pods longer than a man’s arm, and of delicious rare flavor. Not
a Novelty, but a Century old Oriental delicacy. Produces
abundantly anywhere with 90 days’ growing weather.
Free descriptive Bulletin of this and other superfine seed
strains. Write for it. :
J. A. & B. LINCOLN, Seed Growers and Importers.
39 South La Salle Street, Chicago, Illinois
Horstord’s The best plants for cold cli-
mates are those which have
Cold been tried in the North. Many kinds which
will do in Southern N. Y. or\N. J. will not al-
Weathe ways winter in Northern New~England. My
r 25th anniversary annual offers about all the really
Plant hardy shrubs, trees, vines, herbaceous plants,
Ss lilies, wild flowers, hardy ferns, &c., suitable
to Northern New England. Ask for cat-
alogue N.
F. H. HORSFORD, CHARLOTTE, VT.
GARDEN LABELS
Know when, where and what you planted. Label your garden.
100 wood labels in assortment from the big 12-inch for marking
garden rows to little copper-wired label for marking trees and
shrubs. Attractively packed with marking pencil 70 cts.,
post paid.
Cc. H. GORDINIER Troy, N. Y.
Gladioli from Oregon
Our bulbs grow to perfection in the long, cool summers.
Artistic catalogue of standard and unusual varieties. Free.
Write for it.
W. L. CRISSEY, “Gladiolus Farm”’
Boring, Oregon
su a Listen To
ABN Your
and cold ames Garden
The Sunlight Sash,
whether set on Hot-
beds, Cold-Frames or
Our small, inexpensive,
ready madeGreenhouse [t=
are the class for results fj
and last a lifetime. en
Order now and have them ready. If glazed
both sides they eliminate the drudgery of
handling mats and shutters.
The Suntrapz frames go by post. Prices:
== —— =) Small size, taking 8x10
glass, 50c; larger, for 10x12
glass, 65c, postpaid.
Sash, Frames and Green-
houses described and priced
He in our Catalogue. Itis free;
ask for it.
Sunlight Double Glass Sash Co.
937 East Broadway
Louisville, Ky.
(Continued from page 94)
in the shade and then planted in boxes.
When the little plants were well started, I
transferred the boxes of dirt-bands to a cold-
frame, though a friend used a sunny cellar
window with equal success. My judgment is
that six weéks ahead of the usual planting
time is quite as long as they can be kept along
well indoors, though I find the experts urge
January planting. For New Hampshire that
is certainly too early as it is mid-April before
the ground is in workable condition in an aver=
age season.
The plants were set by the level culture
method and six inches apart, pinched when
about six inches high to induce branching, and
the trellis was well covered in due time. It
proved very easy to slip the dirt bands into
the trowel holes as the dirt had become firmed
so the bands could be peeled off without dis-
turbing the column of soil.
with cut-worms slip them in box and all. The
row had good cultivation, and plenty of rain
kept them well watered until they came into
bloom about the last of June. I used Clay’s
Fertilizer, followed at three day intervals
with pulverized sheep manure and a very light
application of nitrate of soda, all well watered
in after the buds showed, repeating the series
at an interval of one week. But the treat-
ment was interrupted just when it would have
been most useful by that bane of all true garden
lovers, a vacation that was reluctantly ex-
tended by the needs of others to three weeks,
while rueful visions of a neglected garden
danced before my eyes. A neighbor kindly
kept the flowers picked for me but the plants
had no care aside from that. On my return |
found the plants six feet high; and the quantity
and quality of bloom is almost incredible for a
fifteen foot row under such conditions. My
soil is all but pure sand and when I stray from
the list of sand-lovers I usually come to grief.
I get enough for three or four large bouquets
every day or at most every other day.
The seed were Spencers and the sprays very
fine. My standard was refreshed by a visit
to the Boston Sweet Pea Show, and I have
many blooms that are in the exhibition class,
though not quite the great ruffled prize-win-
ners I saw there. ‘This time I used a good
mixture, but henceforth I shall use the named
varieties, my selection being based on notes
made at the show rather than catalogued
charms.
If one can supply water in dry seasons, I
should not hesitate to encourage any one who
loves Sweet Peas well enough to give them care
to use farmogerm and expect results, even if
their soil be thin and poor. I would much like
the chance of testing results of its use on really
good Sweet- Pea soil as well. The Sweet Pea
raisers can be bought, but I found it a simple
matter to make my own, using bristol board
about the weight of postcard stock, cut 7 by
4% inches, making boxes one and a half inches
square, with one inch for overlap and fastening
with paper clips. I folded them over a ruler
very rapidly, and as they were without bot-.
toms they were simple enough to put to-
gether. “They were fitted into a wooden soap
box, one side of which had been taken off and
replaced with screws so it could be removed at
planting-out time to permit the sliding off onto
a piece of board of the little bottomless boxes,
Care should be taken to give good drainage of
the large box and not to over-water. Some of
my boxes moulded and the seed rotted through
over-zealous watering. Better cover with
glass at first and shade than to keep over-wet.
—L. M. Robbins, Concord, N. H.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
If you are troubled :
Marcu, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE | 97
The Beautifier of Permanence and || Lattice
Individuality for Public and ene te Fences
Private Grounds Hones
Transforming barren spaces into || Gates and
spots of rarest charm and beauty. Arbors &
When writing enclose roc and
Ask for Pergola Album ‘*E-30”
HARTMANN - SANDERS COMPANY
Elston and Webster Avenue, CHICAGO
New York Office, 6 East 39th St., New York City
Gladioli
Send $5 for too first- class No. r blooming bulbs, my famous
“Diamond Mixture,”’ containing the very finest large flow-
ered named varieties, such as Schwaben, Pendleton, Europa,
War, Pink Perfection, and many others. These bulbs will
give you the best flower garden possible, an al! summer joy.
SUMNER PERKINS Danvers, Massachusetts
NIGHT’S FRUIT PLANTS
have been the Standard for over
Don’t waste time and money with infer-
30 YEARS ior stock. $1,000 per acre has been made
growing strawberries and raspberries. YOU can do as well
with KNIGHT’S PLANTS. Write for FREE catalogue to-day.
David Knight & Son, Box 102, Sawyer, Mich.
PLANTS SEEDS ROOTS
Complete assortment of hardy Northern grown
Berry Plants, Garden Seeds and Roots. Strict-
Prices reason-
ly first class. True to name.
able. Catalogue sent FREE.
A. R. WESTON & CO.
Bridgman, Mich.
Top Dress with Nitrate of Soda
It does not
Sour the Soil
Nitrate of Soda leaves no mineral
acid residue behind to injure
your soil. It makes bigger crops
—-and keeps the land sweet.
Nitrate of Soda
Top dress 1090 lbs. per acre for seeded
crops: 200 lbs. cultivated in thoroughly
for cultivated crops. These light dress-
ings, evenly spread over an acre will
work for your profit.
WM. S. MYERS
Chilean Nitrate Committee
25 Madison Avenue New York
_ King Greenhouses
—All the Year Round Gardens—
An abundant supply of fresh vegetables and quantities of cut flowers,
just begins to suggest the pleasures a King Greenhouse will bring to
you and your friends.
Write for descriptive literature and tell our experts your wants. We
will submit plans and estimates without charge or obligations.
KING CONSTRUCTION COMPANY
“All the Sunlight all Day Houses”’
10 East 43rd St., New York City 421 King’s Road, North Tonawanda, N. Y.
Flower Lovers
12 Lovely large flowering Double
Dahlias .
© ; * =,
or FLORAL GUIDE. 1939
$1.00 Several New Features.
50 Blooming size Assorted Gladi-
Ging 4 a tlivks
to Giant Flowering Dain Can-
SENASWRe Ses $1.00
All collections sent Postpaid upon receipt of price
with full cultural directions. Price list on request,
of many standard sorts of summer flowering bulbs.
MARK W. SIMON & SON
New Jersey
$1.00
Berlin
ITS ERECLe _ WRITE TODAY
Based on our experience as the
oldest mail order seed concern and ie ae
growers of Asters and other seeds in America.
550 acres and 12 greenhouses in best seed grow-
ing section. A large number of splendid new vari-
eties. Our Guide is full of helpful information about
planting, etec—an invaluable aid to a successful gar-
den. Illustrates and describes leading Vegetables,
Flowers, Farm Seeds, Plants and Fruits. This book,
the best we have issued, is yours absolutely free.
Send for your copy today, before you forget
JAMES VICK’S SONS
62 Stone Street, Rochester, N. ¥.
The Flower City
HORTICULTURAL NURSERIES
Offices: BUFFALO, N. Y.
Send All Correspondence to Buffalo
office, Box 841
DANSVILLE, N. Y.
Specialists In
Dwarf Fruit Trees ' Bearing Age Fruit Trees
Landscape Gardening
Don’t wait for trees to bear fruit.
bearing age.
Pick your fruit the next year.
Plant our dwarf and
Beautify ,
your home, victory is ours, make your home look like it. | a
Plant a victory rose, in honor of our boys’ victorious
Beautiful flowers, roses, shrubs, ornamental
trees everything to beautify the home grounds.
return.
@ Horticultural
A Nurseries
@ Box 841 Buffalo, N.Y.
¢. Dansville, N. Y.
* Inclosed find $3-00 for which
#@ please prepay to my door the
Horticultural planting guide and catalogue free aot tle ig Ree a
to you.
A wonderful home garden collection ,**
Prepaid to your door for only $3.90. ,¢
x dwarf quince, 1 dwarf pear, r dwarf
ae apricot, and one victory Rose.
* Name
Oe Se atecereceens 2
Poe P, O. and State
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
98
“ONE SECTION OF
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
THE FENCE
THAT FLUCTUATES.”
You may be thinking about a “Poultry
Yard” this spring or fall. You may have one.
Or you may raise small animals such as dogs,
rabbits, ete.
This fencing system will add to your pleasure and profit.
Comes in units of several sizes. Permits yard rotation.
Easy to erect and shift. Strong and neat. Expand simply
by adding sections. Safely encloses small chicks as well as
larger birds and animals. Makes best use of small space.
Appeals to the youngsters who delight to “build things.”
Keeps boys busy. No extra posts, hammer, staples or
fence stretchers necessary.
_ Descriptive booklet No. 67HH mailed upon request with
six cents in stamps to cover postage.
BUFFALO WIRE WORKS CO.
(formerly Scheeler’s Sons)
467 Terrace Buffalo. N. Y.
IA
Mii i iii ttt" =
Verona
Bird Houses
J} Give the birds a few log
houses just such as they
find in the natural forest,
$1.10 each; three for $3.00
f.o.b. Verona. Mailing
weight three pounds each,
List on request.
W. II. BAYLES
Verona New Jersey
Bluebirds, Woodpeckers and Robins
ARE HERE‘ AND
Jennie Wren is on the way
RUSTIC CEDAR BIRD HOUSES
$1.25 each, any 3 for $3.50. If wanted
by Parcel Post add Postage; weight of 3 is
1] pounds.
A. P. Greim, “Birdyille,’” Toms River, N. J.
Green Food for Poultry
Unless fowls can be allowed to range it is
necessary to supply green food, if possible every
day of the year. During the growing season
there need be no difficulty about this because even
where crops are not grown especially for the fowls
there are always vegetable tops, lawn clippings,
and even weeds which will furnish good food, thus
converting waste to some purpose.
To make sure that the fowls will have plenty
of green food while confined in their yards it is
well to sow quick growing crops such as mustard
and rape in early spring to supply them during
May. Turnips sown at the same time will yield
plenty of tops during June and the roots may be
used for the table. A row of fifty feet of each of
these if allowed to grow to fair size will provide
enough food for an ordinary home flock of twelve
to twenty fowls during two to three weeks. If
the plants are cut several inches above the ground,
many of them will send up new tops so that a
second or even a third cutting may be made.
About the time these special sowings have failed
the garden will be supplying other greens in the
form of inferior heads of lettuce, cabbage, and
the waste leaves of these and other plants. Pea
vines will furnish some green food if gathered as
soon as the pods have been harvested for the
table. So on through the summer.
During the fall it is a good plan to allow the
fowls liberty so they may roam over the property
at least the latter part of the day. ‘They will
gather a large quantity of food and destroy in-
sects which are preparing to hibernate, thus act-
ing as scavengers and pest destroyers. It is not
safe, however, to let them out as long as tomatoes
are ripening because they peck and destroy the
fruits.
To supply greens during a longer period than
mentioned above and also vegetable matter for
early winter it is a good plan to sow a row of Swiss
chard—twenty-five feet will be enough—at the
same time that the early beets are sown in the
spring. Fowls are as fond of the foliage of this
as of beets and thrive upon it. » Fortunately, also,
the plant is hardy and will remain in good edible
condition until very late fall, even after ‘Thanks-
giving Day on Long Island. It is a good plan to
plant late cabbage for the fowls even if the family
does not care for this vegetable. Where good
varieties are being grown for the family there
will usually be enough loose and surplus heads to
supply the fowls, perhaps until mid-winter; but
the coarser varieties will usually keep better than
Savoys so some of them may be planted for the
fowls alone.
But cabbage will usually give out during
January so something else must take its place.
One of the best things is the mangel or cattle beet
which may be cultivated in precisely the same
way as garden beets except that the seeds should
bé sown in the early spring and the plants allowed
to grow the entire season. As the mangel is very
hardy it need not be harvested until November,
or in open seasons not until early December. It
Marcu, 1919
will stand a good many frosts without injury.
When harvested the tops should be cut off and
_ fed to the fowls, and the roots stored either in a
root cellar or in an outdoor pit. The pit need be
only a shallow excavation in which the roots are
placed and then covered. One of the best ways
to cover them is with a large piece of burlap
stretched across the top of the pile, then covered
with straw or corn stalks and when the weather
becomes cold covered with earth to the depth of
three or four inches. One of the principal ad-
vantages of using the burlap is that when roots
are needed it may be lifted at one corner and
replaced with less difficulty than if the ‘roots
are merely covered with cornstalks, or straw
-and earth. A covering of boards or a temporary
roof is also a help in storing. The roof may be
covered with cornstalks or straw, then earth as
the weather becomes cold.
Give Hen House Good Ventilation N
One of the dangers of having a hen house
tightly built comes from shutting it up tight and
keeping it warm. The department of poultry
husbandry at the New York State College cf
Agriculture says that if the house is warm it is
generally also damp, and if damp it is not a fit
or healthful place for a hen to live in. Hens
do not have sweat glands in the skin and so have
to get rid of excess moisture by means of the
droppings and through the lungs. If the air is
already moist, they are able to get rid of very
little moisture. Consequently their blood is
not kept in good condition and they become sub-
ject to colds, roup and kindred ailments.
If moisture collects on the walls or windows or
the house smells damp, it is improperly venti-
lated. In that case a window or a door should be
left open. ‘There is little danger of freezing the
hens by giving them a reasonable amount of air.
If the air is dry, their blood is kept in good condi-
tion and they are able to keep warm. ‘The
amount of opening should be determined largely
by the rate the wind is blowing. If there is a
strong wind, only a little opening is necessary
while if there is no wind, a large one will be
needed. ‘The aim should be to keep the house
dry. ‘There may be cracks enough in the house
to do this; if not, the windows should be opened
enough to dry it out. |
Every Amateur Bee Keeper—as well as every
professional should have the following Farmers’
Bulletins which may be secured free from the
U.S. Department of Agriculture at Washington,
D. C.: No. 447, Bees; No. 442, Treatment of
Bee Diseases; 503, Comb Honey; 653, Honey
and Its Use in the Home; 975, Control of Euro-
pean Foul Brood. Department Bulletin No.
96 (also free) is entitled Temperature of Bee
Colony. On the last page of some of these bulle-
tins is a list of other bulletins and circulars which
may be had for 5 or 10 cents, not from the
Department, but from the Supt. of Documents.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
|
|
Marcu,
1919
ULM
Ge
%
with children
breeding.
SSS
SSE EES SEES
VIBERT AIREDALE TERRIERS
absolutely free jrom distemper, of which we never had a Case.
pedigreed, registered, certified.
The Kind of a Dog They Turn in the Street to Look At
WE OFFER: (1) Healthy, hardy, active, thoroughbred, rolypoly, comical, loving puppies, male, female or unrelated pairs.
(3) A splendid bitch already served by our magnificent stud.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
99
The “ONE MAN” Dog
Classiest, bravest dog bred. THE popular dog of the times for home, farm, a8 | auto, children. Splendid companion,
romping playmate, matchless watch and stock dog. Endorsed as unsurpassed all round hunter by Roosevelt and Rainey.
Keenly intelligent, steadfastly faithful, deeply affectionate and true as steel.
VIBERT AIREDALES ARE SPECIALLY SELECTED for brains and brawn, raised under 1000 fruit trees, healthy, hardy,
CLASSY, COBBY, UPSTANDING STOCK, thoroughbred,
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Clean minded, self respecting, dependable
(2) Grown or partly grown male or female or unrelated pair for
We guarantee prompt shipment, safe delivery anywhere on earth, sincere dealings and satisfaction.
AT STUD, Brainy, Brawny, -Noble, Upstanding INTERNATIONAL CHAMPION Kootenai Chinook (the only American bred international champion Airedale stud in the world). Fee
$25. Simply express your bitch to Weston, N. J., she will be bred and returned. Descriptive illustrated booklet and price list on request.
VIBERT AIREDALE FARM, Box 5B, Weston, New. JERSEY
SSSI Os
Also stud card.
Phone Bound Brook mo
N
N
N
,
Ba 's
American Audubon Association Hsin 24 aan
jameter,
Price $17.00. L
Price $7.00.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we wil!, too
Set
100
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Marcu, 1919
6 S08 SSS 6
“You Must Spray
if the spraying
To Make Crops Pay”
Be on the job when the hordes
of potato bugs, flea beetles and
aphids invade your garden.
Blight can be prevented only
by thorough spraying. Plant-
ing, watering and hoeing may _
all be done in vain 7% ¢
neglected. Use MESSY
No. 1, shown at the .eft, will proauce a aense
fog or solid stream as desired. A pressure of
the finger closes the shut-off—prevents waste of
expensive solution. The patented anti-clog nozzle
saves your time and your temper.
Auto-Spray also for disinfecting the poultry house,
whitewashing the dairy, washing the buggy or
auto, spraying the home fruit trees, shrubbery, etc.
Our Spraying Calendar will make you “spray-
wise.’’ It tells the right time and the right solu-
tion for every spraying purpose. And it’s free.
Write for it today and ask for catalog describing
40 styles of Auto-Spray.
The E.C. BROWN CO.
850 Maple St. ROCHESTER, N. Y.
6 ea 6 Go
e “gia ON)
1S 4 oN
Use the
Earlier than you ever had before
The World’s Demand
For Food
will be greater than ever this year. Hun-
dreds of Market Gardeners are more
than doubling their profits by using
my wonderful Plant Forcing devices.
Don’t be satisfied with a garden like
the other fellow—beat him to it.)
No matter how backward the
“= spring, it’s easy with
BALL SEED & PLANT FORCER
y the thousands. Send for my Beautitul Free BOOK.
, BETTER and EARLIER CROPS than you ever had
ening information found in no other publication, It
J rden with flowers in full bloom and vegetables
for your table a month earli an you ever had before. Just drop me a post-
card and I'll send you your copy by return mail.
THE BALL MANUFACTURING COMPANY
Department ‘‘E’’ Glenside, Pa.
iad a
THE
cheap enough to use them
FOR LAWN
FOR GARDEN
or both sides.
your lawn or garden. -
where on receipt of price.
SEWAGE DISPOSAL
Eliminate The Cesspool With
Its Foul Odors and Serious
Health Menace.
The Aten Sewage Disposal System costs
but very little and can be installed by a
novice. No technical knowl-
edge required.
Self-operating
at absolutely yen
no expense. >
Our booklet
No. I/ tells
how it works.
TE
peSiaie= |
ss
a
~ ATEN
ae ~ Sewage Disposal Co,
286 Fifth Ave., New York City
WILL MORE MONEY HELP ?
As @ member of our agency organization, securing subscribers
for the World’s Work, Country Life and the Garden Magazine,
you can increase your earnings — many are doing it. Send your
name to the Circulation Dept.
Doubleday, Page & Company, Garden City, New York
CAMPBELL ‘OSCILLATING’? IRRIGATOR
TTACHED to hose with ordinary water pressure, you
can automatically and Faultlessly irrigate an area as
wide as length of machine and up to 30 ft. long, on either
Only device of its type—indispensable for
Light and portable.
Money back if not satisfactory.
5 ft., $10.00; 10 ft., $18.00; 15 ft., $25.00, F.O.B. Factory.
CAMPBELL IRRIGATION CO.,
Write for bulletins describing our complete line of Modern Irrigation Devices
Automatic
Dependable
Economical
Portable
Expressed any-
Woodbury, N. J.
The original
chemical closet. More
comfortable, healthful, conveni-
ent. Takesthe place of all outdoor
toilets, where germs breed. Be
ready for the long, cold winter.
Have a warm, sanitary, comfort-
able, odorless toilet right in the
house anywhere you wantit. Don’t
go out in the cold. A boon to
invalids,
GUARANTEED ODORLESS
The germs are killed by a
chemical in water in the
container. Empty once a
month as easy as ashes,
Qloset guaranteed. Thirty
days’ trial. Ask for catalog
and price,
BOWE SANITARY MFO. CO,
6th St., Detroit, Mich.
Ack about, Ro = San Washstand--
nD: C) i
Without Plumbing: WAS
Don’t Wear
a Truss
at
Brooks’ Appliance, the
modern scientific invention, the
wonderful new discovery that
relieves rupture, will be sent on
trial. No obnoxious springs or
pads,
MR. C. E. BROOKS
Brooks’ Rupture Appliance
Has automatic Air Cushions. Binds and draws
the broken parts together as you would a broken
limb. No salves. No lies. Durable, cheap. Sent
on trial to prove it. Protected by U. S. patents.
Catalog and measure blanks mailed free, Send
name and address to e
today.
C._E. BROOKS, 275F State St., Marshall, Mich.
SAVE THE TREES.—Spray for San Jose Scale,
z, Aphis, White Fly, etc,, with
| 96) COODS#:5FISH OIL
OAP NOS -
aii Contains nothing poisonous or injurious to plants or
animals.
FREE Our book on Tree and Plant Diseases.
Write for it to-day.
James Good, Original Maker, 2111-15 E. Susquehanna Ave., Phila.
Open for Engagement as Manager or Superintendent
for Park System—Large Estate
Twenty-five years’ practical experience at horticulture and
agriculture. Several years Superintendent one of the largest
nurseries and orchards in the South. Five years spent with
the best ornamental nurseryman and landscape architects
in the North.
Box 124, care of The Garden Magazine, Garden City, N. Y-
MONTREAL M. MELON
The largest and best flavored Musk Melon
in existence, Grows to weigh as much as
20 pounds, and fetches $3.00 to $5.00 each.
GENUINESEED per package postpaid soc.
Do not confuse this variety with the Am-
erican variety. Send for catalogue of
Northern Grown Seeds.
DUPUY & FERGUSON
MONTREAL CANADA
Paper Pots and Dirt Bands
Vegetables four to five weeks ahead of the ordinary method.
No transplanting required. Every seed means a plant if you
use the Pots or Bands.
No cut worms can get at your plants.
Write for sample. Address
MODERN MFG. CO.,
P. O. Box 2854, 543 N. Lawrence St., Phila., Pa.
Paris—Facing Arc de Triomphe
Large private residence to be sold.—
The best situated in Paris to see the
victorious troops entering the city—
24 windows on the Avenue Champs-
Elysees and Place Etoile—Large re-
ception rooms—4 floors—garden—.
Price five million Francs for the resi-
dence. In case of purchase furni-
ture and works of Art extra. Apply to
GEORGES CONTAL-FOUQUET
66, rue de Monceau
Paris
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
EEE A cc AAA NAAN
py ees N food in vast quantities must continue to go to
Europe, and the home garden, whether in the city or the
town, or on the farm, is of most vital importance to the coun-
try. Your garden will help in our country’s great work for
humanity; and it will cut in two the cost of your table. For years
Peter Henderson & Co have urged the planting of more gardens
because of the obvious economy, but now there is an added appeal
that cannot be disregarded. The need for more gardens and 6
better gardens is greater than ever.
Make your home garden a better garden this year by the most ¥
intelligent use of the space you have—not only by using better |
methods but by planting seeds of known quality. The initial
cost of the seeds that you plant is one of the smallest items, but
it is the most important, and you cannot get the fullest results
unless you have started right.
Henderson’s seeds are tested seeds. Many of the methods of seed testing 1n use to-
day originated with the founder of our firm and these have been improved from
year to year. Our seventy-two years of success in our business of seed raising, test-
ing and selling has given an unequalled experience that is back of every packet or
package of seed we sell.
“Everything for the Garden” is the title of our Annual Catalogue. It
is really a book of 184 pages, handsomely bound, with a beautifully embossed
cover, 8 color plates and 1000 halftones direct from photographs, showing actual
results without exaggeration.
A Remarkable Offer of
Henderson’s Seed Specialties
To demonstrate the superiority of Henderson’s Tested Seeds we have made up a Henderson Col-
lection, consisting of one packet each of the following six great specialties:
=
Ponderosa Tomato Henderson’s Invincible Asters
Big Boston Lettuce Henderson’s Brilliant Mixture Poppies
White Tipped Scarlet Radish Spencer Mammoth Waved Sweet Peas
imedenie onan the larsest possibledisimbutiontonour |e WT TET TUS e Eat ee
99
annual catalogue, ‘‘Everything for the Garden,’’ we
make the following unusual offer: Mail us 10c and we
will send you the catalogue, together with this remarkable
‘“‘Henderson’s Specialty Collection,’ enclosed in a coupon
envelope which, when emptied and returned, will be ac-
cepted as 25c cash payment on any order for seeds
amounting to one dollar or over.
PETER HENDERSON & CO.,
35-37 Cortlandt Street, New York City
Peter Henderson & Co.,
35-37 Cortlandt Street, New York City
I enclose herewith 10c for which send catalogue and
‘‘Henderson’s Specialty Collection,” with complete cul-
tural directions, as advertised in The Garden Magazine.
fa NN
urpee’s Seeds
(grow
Quality in seeds is the first thing to consider. You cannot succeed with your garden unless you plant ‘Seeds that Grow.” The House of
Burpee is world famous for the high quality of its seeds. If you want gocd results with the least effort, we suggest that you plant one of
the gardens listed below. These collections are prepared to make gardening easy for you.
BURPEE’S DOLLAR BOX HOME GARDEN COLLECTION
Sufficient seed to plant a garden 20 by 30 feet. A complete Vegetable garden for Seeds, Garden Plan and Cultural Leaflet prepared especially for a Home Garden
$1.00. Burpee’s Dollar Box contains the following Vegetable Seeds: 25 by 50 feet. Burpee’s Home Garden Collection contains the best variety
Beans Standen Gremnipad GarnuGelicnibaat Radish, White Icicl of the following VEGETABLE seeds: Beans, Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery,
Bean, Brittle Wax : Lsttaes Sinkton Saleifyasanceaahiiaiond Cauliflower, Corn, ay Fes Plant, Hors not Rabi, ett Muskmelon,
Beet, Crosby's Egyptian Lettuce, May King Swiss Chard, Lucullus Watermelon, Okra, Onions, Parsley, Parsnip, Peas, Peppers, Pumpkins, Radish, Ruta
1 i q 2 : . . ?
Caer Ee ea Ee a abet pomatos Chalks Jewel Baga, Salsify, Spinach, Squash, Swiss Chard, Tomato and Turnips.
Radkeba; Scarlet Button The Burpee Home Garden Collection includes 37 packets in all, together
If purchased separately this Collection would cost $1.60. | With the Burpee Dollar with Garden Plan and Cultural Leaflet. If purchased separately this collection
Box we include Cultural Leaflet and Garden Plan drawn to scale. Everything is would cost $3.80. The Home Garden Collection will be mailed to your door
prepared to make it easy for you. Mailed to your door complete for $1.00. complete fer $2.00.
BURPEE’S SUBURBAN GARDEN COLLECTION
If you have sufficient ground, you will want a large Vegetable garden. Burpee’s Suburban Garden Collection will give you sufficient seed to sow a complete
Vegetable garden 50 by 80 feet. Sixty-four different varieties, a complete Garden Plan, a book on “Home Vegetable Gardening,’ to tell you how, and a Cook Book by
one of America’s most famous Cooks—surely a big $5.00 worth! If purchased separately this cellection would cost $7.50. Burpee’s Suburban Garden Complete
will be mailed to your door for $5.00. :
BURPEE’S ANNUAL FOR 1919.—Burpee’s Annual is considered the leading American Seed Catalog. It contains a complete list of the best Vegetable
and Flower Seeds. Burpee’s Annual will be mailed to you free upon request. Write for your copy to-day.
W. ATLEE BURPEE CO., Seed Growers, PHILADELPHIA
TOVONUATUOMOURTOARUULTLU Om CLOREULNILLMUAIIII"
OTTE LT ELL AUETTTE HHMI
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Plant Now for Summer Flowers
Japanese Cherries Phloxes Melons Sedums
Transplanting Grafting Inoculating
VOL. XXIX. NO. 3 PRICE, 25o A iGOPY
iS \
HNN WT
NOW You CAN Lane.
YOUR GARDENING
OWEVER ereat your pleasure in making your gardena
factor in the winning of the war, you will be glad now that
your patriotic duty is ended, to plant and grow those flowers
and vegetables that afford the greatest enjoyment to your family
and yourself. Whether your object is the beauty of fragrant
flowers, ora supply of delicious fresh vegetables for your table,
you will secure the greatest possible satisfaction if you plant
av: ) 6
round your home with
FOUNDED 1802 the cheerfulness, beauty,
The House of Thorburn for over a century has been fragrance and constant
engaged in studying and experimenting with flower, vege- delight of flowers?
table, grass and tree seeds; its executives, staff and collec- Write for Thorburn’s
tors know the qualities requisite for quick, vigorous growth; — Catalogue and for any
its assorters and selectors know from long experience each individual personal in-
shade of difference in the seeds they handle; its customers formation you would
know they can rely on every package of Thorburn’s Seeds. like to have.
Are you looking forward this year to
a good be generous supply of the RELIABLE SEEDS
appetizing, fresh table YOU naturally are not interested in SEEDS
vegetables that only —as we are; YOU are interested only in the
a home garden can things that grow from them. ‘That’s what
erowr We shall be we sell you in our packages marked ‘‘Seeds”
only too glad to help —the flowering plants and vegetables you
you—with personal want your garden to produce. Our experi-
suggestions as well as ence of 117 years enables us to KNOW
seeds. what seeds will GROW.
Send for Catalogue
J. M. Thorburn & Co.
53 Barclay Street through to 54 Park Place, New York
ONE
Aprit, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 101
> AT
DAPHNE CNEORUM, Garland Flower,
should be better known andmore universally a Now is the time to get busy if you propose
planted. In May and June it throwsa pro- to do any planting this spring. If unacquainted
fusion of with Nurs-
rosy -lilac eny pro-.| -%
flowers with ducts, send
scattering for our
blossoms all Handbook
through the of General
season. A Information
delightful on Trees
evergreen and Hardy
for the rock- Shrubs. It
ery, (or thie will assist
border of an you in mak-
evergreen ing select-
bed. Price: 10 to12inch ionsand tell you where
spread, $1.00 each, $9.00 you can get Nursery
per dozen, $60.00 per Stock that is hardy and
hundred. well-grown.
Dow’t delay—write at once.
oe |. The Bay State Nurseries
: are cae ie
“Picea pungens, Kosters’’ 678 Adams Street North Abington, Mass. “Thuya occidentalis”
TT
T
il
Titi
mM
|
ll
“ani
=
THOTT
comes to
Greenhouses
come to
Hitchings & Co.
New York Boston
DTT
SL
id
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
102 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
wwCN_hiiiNiiiiiites
‘ii
To gamble with
the weather is to
playa losing game
OUR beautiful lawns and gardens, on
which you have expended so much money,
time and labor, should not be left to the
mercy of the scorching dry spells of summer
when it is so easy to protect them with the
Cornell
Systems of Irrigation
An Underground System of piping in conjunction with
the Cornell Rain Cloud Nozzle sends the water evenly in
a fine spray over every foot of your Jawn or garden, A
turn of the control valve and you have an artificial rain
which can be regulated at will in duration or quantity.
The Underground System, adapted for Jawns can be
installed without disfigurement of the turf and does not
interfere with mowing.
The Overhead System for Gardens is supplied from
underground piping and upright nozzles which do not
interfere with cultivation. The Cornell Portable Sprin- -
kler is recommended for small areas of 15 to 45 feet
diameter.
Write for illustrated literature
WG, CORNELER CO:
Engineers and Contractors
Plumbing, Heating, Lighting, Automatic
Sprinklers, Water Supply Systems, Sew-
age Disposal Plants, Automatic Sewage
Ejectors.
45 E. 17th Street New York
Chicago Boston
Railway Exchange 334 Shawmut Ave.
Washington Baltimore
923 12th St., N. W. Munsey Bldg.
Newark Cleveland
86 Park Pl. Leader-News Bldg.
Kansas City, Mo. Philadelphia
miner Trust Colonial Trust Bldg.
Rain Cloud Nozzles dg. Norfolk
Fs gy eye Pittsburgh Nat’] Bank of Com-
738 Oliver Bldg. merce Bldg.
AAA
iii
others
AS OTHERS SEE IT
ApRit, ‘1919 :
ee, =
ARDEN
MAGAZINE
APRIL,1919
CovER Dresicn—Gtapiotus - C.H.L. Gebferi
PAGE
SoMETHING WrRoNG IN THE WorkKS? - - - - Iog
Cartoons by L. J. Doogue
Amonc Our GARDEN NEIGHBORS - - - -.7- III
FrvE ILLUSTRATIONS
The Yellow-wood Tree—Rose Trellis for Cold Climates
—A Plant for the Mud—An Early Winter Flower —
Good Shrub for Fall Effects—Heayy Mulching —Grow-
ing. Onions on Heavy Soil—Horned-violet and Alpine
Wallflower—Cotton-seed and Sheep Manure as Ferti-
lizers—Iris Notes from California—Currants and Goose-
berries Kept Free from Pests
THROUGH THE GARDEN GATE - Louise B. Wilder 113
Photograph by N. R. Graves
Earty SPRING IN THE ARNOLD ARBORETUM
T. A. Havemeyer 114
Photographs by N. R. Graves, Arthur Eldredge and
INOCULATION FOR BEANS AND PEAS A. B. Ross 116
Photographs by the authorand Department of Agriculture
MUSKMELONS REALLY WORTH EATING '
W.C. McCollom 117
Photographs by the author
ADVENTURES AMONG THE SEDUMS Alice Rathbone 118
Photographs by the author and Herbert Angell
TECHNICAL TIPS FROM A PROFESSIONAL GARDENER
T. Sheward 120°
Drawings by the author
Fruits Just ror Fun - - - - M.G. Kains 122
Photographs by Harvey W. Porch, Jessie T. Beals, the
author, and others
Makinc THE VEGETABLE GARDEN LivE Up TO PLAN 124
Harpy PHtox FOR PRESENT PLANTING
Clark L. Thayer 125
Photographs by the author and N. R. Graves
Tue Monts’s REMINDER - - - - - -
Illustration by U. S. Department of Agriculture
ABSURDITIES IN QUARANTINE No. 37. W.N.Craig 132
A CONSTRUCTIVE SUGGESTION - Theodore Wirth 132
128, 130
eee eh faite = 94
EXPERTENCES AMONG THE VEGETABLES - - - 136
A Rose BorpER By EvoLurion
C. F. Brassey-Brierley 137
TEMPORARY TRELLIS FOR Pras - - AHortulus 138
EcGcGPLANts AS THEY OUGHT TO BE GROWN - 140
Moe Spiegel
Photograph by the author
EXPERIENCES AMONG THE FLOWERS - - - - 142
PERSONAL EXPERIENCES - = = - - - - - I44
Rounp Asour THE Home Pror - - - - 146, 148
Illustration by the U. S. Department of Agriculture
Lzonarp Barron, Editor
ARTHUR W. PAGE
Vice-Presidents
HERBERT S. HOUSTON,
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879
VOLUME XXIX, No. 3.
Published Monthly, 2sc. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year.
For Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Curcaco: Peoples Gas Bldg. |
Los ANGELES: Van Nuys Blig. New York: 120 W.32nd St, ©
F. N. DOUBLEDAY, President
Boston: Tremont Bldg.
S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
Secretary
Ca ae ‘
SD/@ USE LASEEEAGATAGE.... -
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
=
y
fe
Aprit, 1919 : THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 103
i ccc ccc cea
A AL RT
=
BOLGIANO’S “LONG LOST” LETTUCE
‘“‘The Jewel Recovered’’
PRODUCES THE BEST —Early Heads, Large Heads, Sure
Heads, Solid. Heads, Compact Heads, Tender Heads,
Globular Heads, Firm Heads, Uniform Heads.
Delicious
Table |
Lettuce
This wonderful Lettuce was greatly prized by the leading market gar-
deners around New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore twenty-five or
thirty years ago. For some reason unknown it was lost. More recently
it was sold by an unusual Frenchman, who came around with a sack of
seed on his back selling this wonderful Lettuce to the Philadelphia market
_ gardeners. Several years ago this Frenchman went away and never
returned. Fortunately, through our good friend, Mr. Oliver H. Ott, of
Philadelphia, we secured a very few seed of this wonderful Lettuce and,
by infinite pains, care and attention, we have grown enough seed of the
“Tong Lost” Lettuce to supply our wide-awake friends and customers, pro-
vided they order quickly before our limited supply of seed is exhausted.
“Tong Lost” Lettuce is decidedly buttery in flavor, sweet, tender, with
both finest shipping and eating qualities. Leaves are of much sub-
stance and not easily torn.
“Long Lost” Lettuce is of a solid, bright, attractive green. It is never
spotted or brownish in any part.
“Long Lost” Lettuce produces large, extremely solid, compact, cabbage
heads. It is a reliable sure header and is very hardy. It will Winter
over better than Big Boston Lettuce. It stands the cold.
BOLGIANO’S “‘LONG LOST”? LETTUCE The famous Tomato grower, John Baer, says, “Long Lost” Lettuce is the very best Letluce
Pkt. 25c, Oz. 50c, 2 Ozs. 95c, 14 Lb. $1.50, 4 Lb. $2.75, Lb. $5.00 postpaid. ever known. There has never been any Letluce equal to it, for it is something extra good,
vw ~~ ~—6l Se BOLGIANO & SON “Cee Pcentary
Write for Bolgiano’s 1919 Seed Annual. It gives a complete list of Bolgiano’s “Big Crop” Seeds beautifully illustrated
and fully described. It contains valuable garden information that will assist you in making your 1919 garden the best.
_ Address Dept. 100 BALTIMORE, MD.
LI l ee TTETEc(im_ ccc
TET TTC _CtC_ir_i<«cccckkcKiKicNcciicicccnineonceN
Unusual Seed Offer
Dollar and a Half’s Worth for $1.00
You have known of the goodly things that have so many years
come from the greenhouses and nurseries of The Sign of the Tree.
Now we want you to know about its fine vegetable and flower seeds.
We want you to have our new catalogue with its choice seed as-
sortments and offerings in perennials. The catalogue by itself you
are most welcome to. If with a request for one you include a
dollar, we will send you a collection of 15 vegetable seeds or 15 flower
seeds, costing $1.50. You save 50 cents. Or you save a dollar if
you order both vegetable and flower.
VEGETABLES FLOWERS
This is an assortment made by our This collection of 15 annuals was
seed expert. He says they are ample made up by the head of the Trowel
STYRAX JAPONICA
A Distinctive Flowering Shrub
This rare shrub (a native of Japan) bears sweetly fra-
grant flowers, which cover the bush early in June, and in their
dainty waxy whiteness call to mind the loveliness of orange blos-
soms. The shrubs are exceedingly graceful with wide-spreading
branches. The foliage is dark glossy green.
Styrax will make a decidedly attractive garden hedge.” The foliage
is good all summer, and the growth dense enough to afford protec- .
tion. Certainly you will be anxious to have a few specimens if
you do not have room for a hedge. We have some extra fine
plants ready to add charm to your garden.
for a garden for a family of five. Con- | and Sunbonnet Club. Could you ask Each 10
tains full assortments of such things for a better guarantee of their choice- S
as radishes, lettuce, beets, to which | ness? By planting them you are as- 2 At hich ene $ .50 $4.00
.an added goodly quantity of Golden | sured of entire season’s succession of 4 ft. high. ........~. 1.00 9.00
Bantam corn and stringless beans. bloom.
15 kinds, costing $1.50, for $1.00, postpaid. 15 kinds, costing $1.50, for $1.00, postpaid.
[4 ulius Reehrs Co
At The Sige of The Tree
utherford NJ.
“Flowering Trees and Shrubs’’ is one of Hicks
Monographs. Get on our list for the series. It describes and pic-
tures the most desirable varieties of shrubs and trees whose blooms
add to the charm of home grounds and gardens. A copy will be
mailed on request.
HICKS NURSERIES Box M, Westbury, N. Y.
SSS SSG SF {P]) SOMES Ss
SSS SST INE SSIS EZ
Box10,
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
104 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
FARR’S
Hardy Plant
Specialties
For Early Spring Planting
In my comprehensive collection at Wyo-
missing may be found plants suitable for
every phase of gardening. A few are here
noted, to list them all would be impossible:
IRISES—many novelties of my. own raising
(Awarded the Panama-Pacific Gold medal).
PEONIES—the most complete collection of her-
baceous and tree Peonies in the world, embracing
more than 500 varieties.
Delphiniums, Phloxes, Chrysanthemums, ~
Trollius, Long-spurred Columbines,
Hardy Asters, New Astilbe, Roses.
New Japanese and Asiatic Shrubs. Cotoneasters, En-
kianthus, Berberis, Flowering Cherries, Corylopsis, etc.
Dwarf Evergreens. Rare specimens for formal gardens,
lawn groups and rock gardens.
Lilacs, Philadelphus, and Deutzias. A complete col-
lection of Lemoine’s new creations.
A complete list of my collection ofhardy plants and
shrubs will be found in the Sixth Edition (issue of 1918) of
Farr’s Hardy Plant Specialties
112 pages of text, 30 full page illustrations. Most gardeners have a copy, but if
you have not received it, or it has been mislaid, a duplicate will be sent promptly
on request.
BERTRAND H. FARR—Wyomissing Nurseries Co.
104 Garfield Avenue, Wyomissing, Penna.
Would you like us to help you plan your garden? I have found it necessary to form a
special department in charge of a skilled landscape designer and plantsman. I will be glad to assist
you in any way desirable with off-hand suggestions; or by the preparation of detailed plans for which a
charge will be made.
Special Gladiolus Offers
Just a little sum put into either of these collections,
will make your summer garden lovely with beautiful,
ays blooms, that are ever-changing in their attractiveness.
HN
SPECIAL OFFER NO. 1_
42 Bulbs for $1, postpaid
6 America 6 EP ees of India
6 Baron Hulot 6 Halley
6 Brenchleyensis 6 Independence
6 Mrs. Frances King
SPECIAL OFFER NO. 2
20 Bulbs for $1, postpaid
2 Mrs. F. Pendleton 2 Hollandia
=< 2 Panama 2 Niagara
2 Apollo 2 Glory of Holland
; 2 Chicago White 2 Willy Wigman
E 2 Faust 2 Pink Progression
SPECIAL OFFER NO. 3
10 Bulbs for $1, postpaid
Mary Fennel Golden West
Dawn Goliath
Europa Pink Perfection
Canary Bird Princeps
Clarice Victory
\ SPECIAL OFFER NO. 4
eg
Pn
4h ; 72 Bulbs for $2.75, postpaid
if : This includes all the varieties in collections Nos. 1, 2, 3,
\ "| ‘a giving an unusually fine assortment.
i Y | have a plan whereby you can get twenty-five bulbs for
almost nothing. Ask me.
y My ‘‘Glad’”’ Catalogue describes all the varieties here
named, and many others, send for it; or better still, order one
or more collections for immediate or future delivery.
JELLE ROOS
Box R
Milton, Mass.
W eo
| Lovely Blooms From These
A Wy}
a)
SS
4 BX)
eA '9S
S04 Sal nti one WAY
AUS 210.6 MER IN ZUG
i
4
1, ep Ss
OCHA ARP Ee
0:
. THE NE
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popes
Garden bordered with Box-Barberry. Two-year-old stock was used. Photo taken
three months after planting; plants set four inches apart.
A Distinct Novelty: Offered this Spring
for the First Time
BOX-BARBERRY is a dwarf, upright form of the familiar Berberis
Thunbergii; it is perfectly hardy, thriving wherever Berberis Thunbergii
grows. It does not carry wheat-rust.
BOX-BARBERRY lends itself most happily to low edgings for formal gardens,
when set about four inches apart. It also makes a beautiful low hedge when
set 6 to 8 inches apart. The foliage is light green, changing in autumn to
dazzling red and yellow. ;
1 year, frame-grown, $20.00 per 100; $175.00 per 1000
2 year, field-grown, 30.00 per 100; 250.00 per 1000
3 year, field-grown, 40.00 per 100; 350.00 per 1000
A year specimens, $1.00. Six for $5.00
(50 at 100 rates; 250 at 1000 rates)
Available stock limited. Orders filled strictly in rotation received.
THE ELM CITY NURSERY CO., Woodmont Nurseries, Inc.
Box 191, New Haven, Conn. (Near Yale Bowl)
Our Catalogue, now ready, lists a comprehensive assortment of
choice Shade and Fruit Trees, Evergreens (including Taxus
cuspidata type), Shrubs, Vines, Roses, Hardy Plants. Cata-
logue mailed the day your request is received.
SU arly. lens we ye
Eh be any x DAE Cia
eae
Send for this sample of
MTROFERT) LF
You Want a Successful Garden
—not a plot full of stunted plants and
shrubs, yielding you a meagre growth of
dwarfed vegetables and flowers, but a
healthy, luxuriant beauty-spot, which will
repay the hours of attention and labor
which you give it.
The right fer-
tilizer is half the secret of a success-
ful garden. You can’t get more out
of your soil than you put INTO it.
)NIDROBERTICE is sagicleans
simple and COMPLETE plant food.
Being absolutely odorless it will not
make your garden a neighborhood
nuisance.
This carefully-
packed sample
makes 2 gal. of
fertilizer for 10-
day test. Send
25c. for sample
and nearby deal-
er’s name.
Send for sample for 10-day
INDOOR (or OUTDOOR) test
< vies
2axhs 2:
APRIL, 1919
27 eg.
Keg.
ze
2 LARC,
¢
THE
FERTILE
CHEMICAL
co.
606 Ellastone Bldg.,
Cleveland, Ohio
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
APRIL, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 105
=
FARQUHAR’S NEW EVERGREENS FROM CHINA
Introduced by the Arnold Arboretum.
Abies Delavayi. Chinese Sona a at our Cape Cod = Picea asperata var. ponderosa.
NEW FIRS FROM CHINA
Abies Delavayi. This is one of the handsomest of the Silver Fir family. Itsupright growth Abies recurvata. This Fir is of pyramidal habit. The rich deep green foliage resembles
and rich deep green foliage make it rival in appearance the! Yew ‘trees of Europe, andwe predict that of Abies Delavayi, but is stronyly recurved, which gives the tree a distinct and pleasing
that for landscape purposes this Fir will be used to produce the Yew effects here. $5.00 each. appearance. $5.00 each.
NEW CHINESE SPRUCES
Picea asperata. A quadrangular-leaved Spruce from northwestern China. All the varieties Picea asperata var. ponderosa, This handsome variety is remarkable for its large cones.
of P. asperata are of dense growth, and the purplish coloring of the young foliage makes them _ picea Balfouriana. One of the tallest of the Chinese Spruces
strikingly beautiful in the early summer. : ae 3
Picea asperata var. notabilis. This variety differs from the preceding, chiefly in the cones, Picea montigena, Theshort, stout bristly leaves are of shining green and more or less glaucescent.
the scales of which are rhombicovate in outline. Picea retroflexa, Glaucous foliage in somewhat spiral arrangement. Very interesting.
Strong Plants of the above varieties, each $3.00. Collection of 6 varieties, $15.00. Larger Plants, each $5.00. Collection of 6 varieties, $25.00.
R. & J. FARQUHAR & CO. Boston, Mass.
LN LCA
World’s Best Dahlias
Some Wonderful New
Creations for
satisfactory flowers grown and there
is no reason why every family can-
not enjoy this grand flower—it is as ‘ | We “ARE sy the Largest in the World
easy to grow as the potato.
Bloom from July to frost if you
plant a few bulbs each month from :
pril to July. #
Eee Ne OLEATE ae Our New Catalogue tells the
send 50 Bulbs of our Grand Prize 3 :
Mixture, which covers every con- plain truth about the Best New,
ceivable shade in the Gladiolus :
Rare and Standard Dahlias.
kingdom.
Beautifully illustrated.
Garden Fu I]
Glaciol
The Gladiolus is one of the most
INT
Each year we sell thousands of these bulbs and
receive numerous testimonials as to their merits.
ORDER YOUR BULBS NOW so as to have :
them to plant when you begin making your garden. "
Simple cultural directions in package.
Mail this advertisement with Check, Money
Order, Dollar Bill or Stamps, or present at our
aye ag inated store and secure this splendid collection, sent _pre-
paid to any point in the U.S. east of the Missis-
sippi. For points West and Canada add 25c—($1.25).
Our 1919 Spring Catalogue sent on request
30-32 Barclay St.
amp Gi Yoer New York City
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Write to-day for free copy.
PEACOCK DAHLIA FARMS
P. O. Berlin New Jersey
LN
LNA
PLU ILC
106 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
ORBES Dollar’,
5 Market Basket |
Vegetable Seed Collection
You can “go to market” in your own garden, getting fresh, crisp
vegetables for summer use, and some to save for winter. A dollar
invested in seed now will mean many dollars saved next summer-
A Garden Full of Vegetables
the kinds that your family likes; the kinds that are easy to grow
and that will give you satisfactory returns. Forbes’ Dollar Market
Basket Collection of Seeds contains
One Packet Each of these Eighteen Varieties
Beans, King of Earlies, Ward- Onion, Yellow Globe Danvers;
well’s Wax, Fordhook Bush Red Wethersfield.
Lima. Parsley, Moss Curled.
Beet, Detroit, Dark Red; Radish, Scarlet Globe, Scarlet
Early Wonder. Turnip White-Tip.
Carrot, Coreless. Spinach, Savoy-Leaved-
Cucumber, Forbes’ Prolific Swiss Chard.
White Spine. Tomato, Matchless.
Lettuce, Champion of All; Turnip, Purple-Top White
Grand Rapids. Globe.
Sent Postpaid for One Dollar
Forbes’ 1919 “Every Garden Requisite”—is full of helps for
the vegetable and flower grower—seeds, tools,
Catalo {We insecticides.
Write to-day for your free copy-
ALEXANDER FORBES & CO., Seedsmen
114 Mulberry Street Newark, New Jersey
Make Things Grow by Right Pruning
The big oranges, the rich rosy apples the kiddies like so
well, the American Beauty rose—all are the products of
experts. Growers and florists who know exactly how, as well
as the kind of pruning shears to use—Pexto.
The kind aes Lad is none too good for you. You want
your trees, shrubs, and hedges to grow and thrive.
And Pexto Pruning Shears will help you get these good
results. You can identify the Pexto Dealer by Pexto Tool
Displays—displays of specially selected kinds.
A Practical Pruning Guide
The Little Pruning Book by F. F. Rockwell, a widely
known writer with practical pruning experience, tells how,
when, and where to prune for the most vigorous and
healthy growth. Sent prepaid for 50 cents (48 pages).
THE PECK.STOW & WILCOX COMPANY
Southington, Conn. Cleveland, Ohio
Address correspondence to 2186 W. Third St., Cleveland, O.
100% American for 100 Years}
FOUNDED IN 1819
CAAA TT
APRIL, 1919
Plant Life Needs
6 « ul Wy ater Mi OST a
Don’t let drought rob you of the fruits
of your garden efforts! Regular water-
ing insures healthy, thrifty plants that
bear’ bigger crops of juicier vegetables. Watering
helps late plantings to get that quick start so essen-
tial to success with vegetables for fall and winter use.
Rotary
Dayton osizing Sprinklers
The very fine spray of The Dayton may be turned upon newly made seed
beds with the perfect assurance that the soil will not wash. The nozzles are
easily regulated to give just the kind of spray or stream required. The most
even distribution of water is assured. Automatically waters the ground in
either circle or half circle from a 3 ft. radius to a space 80 ft. in diameter.
Save Water, Labor and
Boost the Crops
Operates under any wa-
fer pressure, from 20
pounds up. Connect it to
the garden hose, turn on
faucet and it will water the
gardenuntiringly,inamost
efficient manner, without
2 Types '
The irrigation type, as
shown above, for mount-
ing on stationary pipes,
$5.00 each. The lawn type,
as shown opposite, mount-
care, trouble, or attention
on your part. Illustrated
circular free on request
—write for it to-day.
Dayton
Irrigation Co.
Dayton, Ohio
ed on stand for hose con-
nection $6.00 each. Both
types are fully guaran-
teed! Order to-day—tlest
your garden should suffer.
Last call for
Spring Spraying—
HY spend days
of painstaking care
in planting and cultivat-
ing your garden and
shrubbery and omit the
real precaution —spray-
ing?
Guard your garden’s beauty
An inexpensive sprayer,
a few cents’ worth of spray-
ing materials and a couple of
hours’ time will insure you
success,
Complete spraying catalog free
64-page How-and-when-to-
Spray Handbook 10 cents
extta if desired.
THE DEMING COMPANY
307 Depot St. Salem, Ohio
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
APRIL, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 107
LARGE BEARING AGE TREES
If you want fresh, juicy fruit and want it now, and in sufficient quantity to give it a
place on the family bil! of fare, plant some of these magnificent Bearing Age Fruit Trees
which we are offering for the first time this season; trees which are really a horticultural
achievement.
Each tree has been grown, cultivated al pruned fora specimen. All of the trees run
from seven to nine feet in height; symmetrically branched, heavily rooted—trees that are of
bearing age and save you years of waiting for pears of rich flavor and delicious, juicy plums.
The pictures at the side show a pear and a plum tree dug at random from our block
of specimens. Jf you want Big Fruit Trees for immediate results, Order To-day.
PLUMS—Early PLUMS—E£ate
Abundance (cherry red) Shrop. Damson (blue)
Lombard (violet red) Bradshaw (violet)
French Prune (dark Purple) Burbank (cherry red)
Yellow Gage (golden yellow) Oct. Purple (purple)
PEARS—Summer PEARS—Autumn PEARS—Winter
Bartlett Clapp’s Favorite Duchess Seckel Anjou Kieffer
Wilder Sheldon Lincoln Coreless
PRICES—$2 each; $20 per doz.; $125 per 100
The WORLD’S BEST Trees and Plants for YOUR garden described in our FREE Illustrated Catalogue.
GLEN BROS., Inc., Glenwood Nursery, 1848 Main St., Rochester, N. Y.
“GROWERS OF THE WORLD’S BEST’”’
HODGSON aes
are not made for any particular climate or section of the
country. They are in use now all over the United States,
giving absolute comfort and satisfaction. No matter
whether you want a bungalow in the mountains, a cottage : P
by the 2 a house in Ae country or just a play house or P rotect and Beautify Your Home or Estate with
screen house for the lawn you will find exactly what you
will like in the Hodgson catalogue. ENT ERPRISE
Our manufacturing methods are
: also fully explained, how you get ditron EF EN CIN G “Mainiink
your house in painted sections so it ; : ; A i ,
will be complete in every way when Now is the ideal time 9 mae your eee fens wmprovenet
ppt Te ee ce teem) ||| 5, ame fettions nye been remove end we noy have ample stort
this can be done without expert Hevorsianeicn ;
help. Me ere of eeperience in
d re ch iron fences enables us
enckoulwant your house soon, Send for | 1] 11111 dgggienss UMMM] fo elr vou a fence of unusual
immediate deliveries. Get your order in as ina iiss ee ts aigeal ae gre:
quickly as possible so you will get your : Hie strength for generations!
house when you want it.
, Our free catalog illustrates
Send for the catalogue to-day. been at EL : and describes all of our many
E. F. HODGSON CoO: ; af an le attractive styles of fences and
Room 228, 71-73 Federal St., Boston 5 ui re a gates.
6 East 39th St., New York City
ENTERPRISE IRON WORKS
2466 YANDES ST. INDIANAPOLIS
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
108 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE ApRrint, 1919
Bobbink & Atkins
Grounds and Gardens everywhere testify to the excellence
of our products — the mark of QUALITY on every plant
ROSES
EVERGREENS
RHODODENDRONS
OLD-FASHION
FLOWERS
TREES and SHRUBS
FRUIT TREES
VINES
Ask for Catalogue Visit Nursery
Rutherford, New Jersey
A
2g
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
The Garden Magazine
APRIL, 1919
Something Wrong in the Works?
Who and What Are Really Behind
Quarantine 37?
HE Federal Horticultural Board keeps
reiterating that the need of greater re-
strictions on plant importations is be-
ing urged upon it by “associations re-
presenting State Departments of Agriculture,
State nursery inspectors, and official entomolog-
ists and plant pathologists of the United States”;
and further that “similar requests have been re-
ceived from National and State Forestry, Hor-
ticultural, and other Associations, and from many
leading nurserymen and florists.” It is easy to
make general assertions, and to give them a sem-
blance of weight; but up to the present writing
the Federal Horticultural Board has not seen fit
to specifically enumerate these associations, nor
to give the names of the many “leading nursery-
men and florists.”
That some associations have been led to in-
dorse the proposed Quarantine is true. That a
few nurserymen and florists, seeing in it an op-
portunity to corner a market, are giving it prac-
tical support is also true. One active supporter,
at all events, is reported as having placed hurry
orders abroad for a large supply of certain ever-
greens which are to be delivered prior to June I.
The Federal Horticultural Board proceeds
under an act of Congress in 1912 authorizing the
Department of Agriculture to take steps from
time to time in order to give protection against
the importation of diseased or insect infested
plants. The Secretary of Agriculture, empow-
ered by this. act, delegated his authority to a
board now known as the Federal Horticultural
Board. This Board is composed exclusively of
entomologists having no acquaintance whatever
with the interests, needs, and scope of the garden-
ing activities of the country.
Originally this board did have in its make-up
at least one man who knew a good deal about
plants, a trained gardener of much experience
and ability—perhaps of too much! At all events,
he was removed and another, a microscopical,
laboratorical, bug-chaser substituted.
As a special advisor to the Secretary of Agricul-
ture there stands a gentleman whose life work has
been that of plant pathologist—in time he be-
came chief of the Bureau of Plant Industry, then
Assistant Secretary of Agriculture, and then
Dean of a college of agriculture—a position which
he held for a short time only—and, resigning, re-
turned to Washington where a special appoint-
ment was given him in his old department. Be-
cause he spent a few of his earlier years in the
West in the cultivation of florists’ plants, he
stands before certain officials as the expert repre-
sentative for the interests whose welfare is so
threatened by Quarantine 37.
This gentleman has been looked upon by the
florists and the nurserymen with friendly regard
for many years; and it was this gentleman who,
at a public meeting of horticulturists in Boston
on February 15th, when very much excited on
being questioned as to his endorsement of the
Federal Horticultural Board’s assertions, startled
his hearers by announcing that, no matter how
many petitions were sent to the Secretary of Agricul-
ture, the order would go through and would stand
forever!
Incidentally it is interesting to observe that
this gentleman is to be entrusted with the plant
“delousary” already established at Washington
and where any plant material in the future must
be taken, disinfected, and finally, if in his judg-
ment it is safe to do so, liberated to its owner.
Can it be possible that unless this elaborate mach-
inery is kept going this
estimable gentleman
will find himself with-
out a job?
It is true that Dr.
Galloway does not en-
tirely indorse the opin-
ion of the Federal Hor-
ticultural Board when
it asserts that “the ex-
perts of thisdepartment
are convinced that it
will be possible very
promptly to produce in
this country all the
plants prohjbited by
this quarantine, and
this opinion has been
indorsed by leading
nurserymen and flo-
rists,”’ for at the Boston
meeting he categori-
cally denied that; said
he would prefer to sub-
stitute “nearly all.”
Orchid lovers and
others who are fond of
the many ornamental
plants that adorn their
greenhouses will be in-
terested to learn that
this gentleman thinks that all such plants are a
“mere bagatelle.”
As to the assertion of the board that its opinion
has been indorsed by leading nurserymen and
florists it might be pertinent to ask how to the
Board’s view a “leader” qualifies? The Ameri-
can Association of Nurserymen, the Society of
American Florists, the Nurserymens’ Associations
109
Did you say I was treading on
anybody’s toes?
of New England, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York,
and New Jersey, the Minnesota State Sasere
tural Society, a majority of the Florists’ Clubs,
members of the American Peony Society, of the
American Rose Society, the Horticultural Society
of New York, and indeed, practically all the
associations of florists and nurserymen and work-
ers concerned with ornamental plants in that part
of the country where the fine art of gardening has
attained its real perfection, and where it is prac-
tised on a comprehensive scale, are solidly opposed
to Quarantine 37.
The Federal Horticultural Board gives much
weight to the result of a hearing conducted by the
Department of Agriculture on May 28, 1918. It
is a fact that this meeting was attended by repre-
sentative and leading nurserymen and florists,
but also by a preponderating number of entomo-
logists and bug chasers; and the opinion of the
board as decided at that meeting was taken, not
by weight of “leading” importance of representa-
tives present, but by mere bulk or numbers.
The order is confiscatory, and destructive to
the nursery trade of the East; and it has been
stated by an authoritative representative that
the estimated loss to business through these re-
strictions may be as much as 40%.
The order is injurious to American Horticulture
generally through cutting off access to the world’s
supply of plants and at a time when the people
of the country are turning more definitely, assidu-
ously, and enthusiastically to gardening than ever
before in the history of the country.
The order is ineffective in that it cannot guar-
antee the immunity which it issupposed to produce
since hemp rope, jute, and thousands of bales of
peat moss litter and such like material are still
likely to bring in insects in the future just as they
have done in the past.
The order attempts more than the Plant Quar-
antine Act authorizes in that it fails to specify.
Section seven of the Plant Quarantine Act reads:
“THAT, whenever, in order to prevent the intro-
duction into the United States of any tree, plant,
or fruit disease or of any injurious insect, new to
or not heretofore widely prevalent or distributed
within and throughout the United States, the
Secretary of Agriculture shall determine that it
is necessary to forbid the importation into the
United States of any class of nursery stock or of
any other class of plants, fruits, vegetables, roots,
bulbs, seeds, or other plant products from a coun-
try or locality where such disease or insect infesta-
tion exists, he shall promulgate such determina-
tion, specifying the country or locality and the
classof nursery stock or other class of plants, fruits,
vegetables, roots, bulbs, seeds or other plant pro-
ducts which, in Ais opinion, should be excluded.”
110
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
APRIL, 1919
Will the people stand for having an entire in-
dustry wiped out of existence on the fiat of a
board of five men, whose history and training
have never qualified them in any way, to speak
authoritatively for the interests which they affect?
The ignorance of the board as to actual com-
mercial conditions might be illustrated in many
ways, but perhaps this is as illuminating as any.
Plants are admitted so long as they have no sand,
soil, or earth—the evident danger carrier being
the sand, soil, or earth. The amount of such
materials used in packing the plants is infinites-
imal in comparison with the enormous quantities
of sand, gravel, and clay entering the country in
the form of ship ballast at any of the ports. In
one season comes to one large port many more
tons of such material than comes in on
plants at all ports in a great number of
years. One horticulturist investigating this
point was offered 8,000 tons of such ballast sand
in one lot at the port of Philadelphia; and such
ballast material is carried inland and is used for
grading and filling, sold to potteries, and for other
industrial purposes.
T IS somewhat difficult to get exact figures
concerning either the value or bulk of
horticultural importations but it will not
be without interest, in view of the assertions
that have been made in some quarters that the
whole trade is of but little importance to the
country at large, if we look into such statistics
as are available. According to figures furnished
by the Nurseryman and Seedsman, of England,
the production of stock for export to America
(even in the year 1918 when conditions were not
by any means favorable) was:
FRANCE ENGLAND | HOLLAND
Fruit trees. 3,444,697 4,117 6,482
Roscam-a ae er rsc. 165,014 88,626 736,185
Forest and ornamental de-
ciduous trees. 5 858,829 8,685 49,873
Ornamental deciduous
shrubs 1,560,221 23,325 357,200
This it will be noted takes cognizance only of
hard-wooded material—herbaceous perennials,
bulbs. Orchids, etc., are not included in this
enumeration.
Other figures, taken from an official publica-
tion of the Federal Horticultural Board, are inter-
esting in connection with the proposed quaran-
tine. The Quarterly Letter of Information, issued
by the Board in January last, lists the pests
taken from plant material presented for import in-
to America between October 1 and December 30,
1918. How muchthis material amounted to, and
what proportion it was of the total imports, are
not stated; but the countries of its origin, the
nature of the pests, and the hosts on which they
are found, are given. During those three months
England sent us one specimen of saw-fly and one
case of crown gall, both on Rose stocks (which
are not excluded by Quarantine 37). France sent
over two lonely beetles on wild cherry seed, and
another kind of beetle and two other insects on
Hyacinths (both plants are not excluded by
Quarantine 37). [here also came one bug and a
case of Mucor globosus (mold fungus), the former
on Clematis, the latter on a Peony root—of
course these are banned material after June 1.
From Ireland came six cases of a bacterial disease,
again on Manetti Rose stocks! Scotland contri-
buted a saw-fly, also on Manetti stock, which
Quarantine 37 admits!
Well, what’s the answer?
HAT is the Office of Information think-
ing of anyhow? Who, in that public-
ity bureau of the U. S. Department of
Agriculture, had the temerity to prepare
and issue the press release entitled: “Can the
United States Grow Its Own Fruit Stocks?’’?
Did henot realize that in bringing up such a sub-
ject, not to mention expressing an opinion on it,
he was violating the sacred province of the august
F. H. B. which, alone, is qualified to say what
American horticulture can, should, shall, and
must do? In the very opening paragraph he
speaks almost reverently of the “blending of the
soils of America and France,” saying: “The most
notable instance of the incorporation of American
soil into the soil of France was the taking to
France of several barrels of earth in which to bury
the body of Lafayette, but French soil has been
incorporated into American soil in literally mil-
lions of places. . . How did it come? On
fruit stocks.”
Visitor to flower show in 1924, (greatly impressed by guide and
special guard): ‘‘Well, Well, so that’s an Azalea!—and they used
to be quite popular Easter gifts! And it doesn’t look in the
least dangerous. Does it ?”’
How, oh how can one office of the Dept. of
- Agriculture condone a criminal practice such as
the bringing of plant materials and soils into
this country when they are perhaps infested with
nine hundred and sixty-seven kinds of bugs and
diseases?
Again: “One of the questions to be solved is
the practicability of producing in this country
the millions of ordinary apple, pear, plum and
cherry stocks which have hitherto been secured
largely abroad.” If we can grow “very
promptly”? our Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Palms,
Orchids, Boxwood and all the fastidious plants
that the F. H. B. says we can why should we have
any trouble with simple little things like these?
Says the Office of Information: “Thechief prob-
lems are to find regions and soils in this country
where stocks may be grown commercially. . .
Correlated with the problem of commercial stock
production is that of securing seeds for stocks.
‘There is need for developing our home supplies
[Indeed there is, and more need coming!] This
is a long time proposition, as there are few recog-
nized sources of supply here such as exist in
Europe.”
But the Federal Horticultural Board differs,
asserting that the total exclusion of most orna-
mental materials will cause but a momentary
pause in our horticultural progress,—many of
which we are reminded by Dr. B. T. Galloway,
one-time Asst. Secy. of Agriculture are “not
worth a bagatelle’”—such as Orchids, Gladiolus,
Dahlias, Peonies and other worthless trifles.
But there are quite a good many people who
come from the same state as Dr. Galloway, who,
judging by his remarks at Boston those (just
quoted are only a few of them) hasn’t much of an
opinion of ornamental horticulture anyway, and
doesn’t mind saying so. Those people “want to
be shown”’—they aren’t interested in hypotheses
and theoretical discussion. They are standing
on firm ground and looking for facts.
Typical Resolutions Passed at Representative Gatherings of Horticulturists
Boston, Mass.
(After public lecture by Dr. B. T. Galloway on February 15, 1919.)
Resolved.—That this public meeting in Horticultural Hall, Bos-
ton, on February 15, 1919, comprising many members of the Mas-
sachusetts Horticultural Society and others keenly interested in
horticulture, believes that the horticultural interests of the United
States will be very seriously affected if Quarantine No. 37 is put in
orce.
Since the opening of the great world war, imports of European
nursery stock have been very much restricted, and growers here
have not stockson hand of the excluded plants from which to prop-
agate. very long period would be necessary to produce much
of the stock we have been importing, and our climate and labor con-
ditions are such that few men would have the temerity to undertake
work which a new Federal Horticultural Board would probably un-
settle if not destroy.
The opinion of the Federal Horticultural Board that debarred
plants can all promptly be produced at home is one which no one
possessing practical horticultural knowledge would for one moment
consider. Orchids, Bay Trees, Boxwood, Rhododendrons and other
debarred plants require from 7 to 25 years from seeds, cuttings, or
grafts to be of suitable size for the American trade. We have no
growers here willing to, wait for these long years for financial
returns. :
Proof is entirely lacking that our most serious pests and diseases
have come on foreign nursery stock. If inspectors had, in the past,
performed their duties more carefully, many of them would have
been excluded. With a total prohibition of all plant imports, there
remain ample opportunities for both pests and diseases to be
introduced and, as long as we have foreign commerce, there are
probabilities of additional trouble from such sources.
There seems no valid reason why careful inspection by properly
trained men before shipment and after arrival should not amply
safeguard our growers at home.
We consider this Quarantine unjust, unfair, and very discrimina-
ting. In it Germany is distinctly favored, while friendly nations
have practically all their products debarred.
We do not believe that Congress endowed the Federal Horticul-
tural Board with any fiscal powers, and the efforts of a few nursery-
men and florists in supporting ‘this measure are with an idea
of excluding plants from abroad that they may charge higher prices
for inferior articles produced at home.
It is our earnest belief that, under any circumstances, this Quar-
antine should not go into effect on June I next, and that no action
be taken which does not properly safeguard the increasingly im-
portant horticultural interests of America.
Resolved, That copies be forwarded to Dr. C. L. Marlatt, Chair-
man of the Federal Horticultural Board, Hon. D. F. Houston,
Secretary of Agriculture, Senators Lodge and Weeks, Senator-elect
Walsh, and the sixteen Massachusetts congressmen.
Late News!
Minneapouis, Minn.
(By the Minnesota State Hort. Society)
This Society, having a membership of 3,200 men and women in-
terested in horticultural work and progress, does herewith emphatic-
ally protest against the enforcement of Quarantine Order No. 37,
made by the Federal Horticultural Board.
Under the ruling of this Board the above Quarantine Order will
take effect June 1, 1919, and will put an embargo on nearly all plants
which have in the past been imported from foreign countries and
are still needed in the future for the benefit and enjoyment of the
people of our country.
We submit the following reasons why this embargo is unfair, un-
just, and should not be enforced:
1. The purpose of the embargo is to prevent the importation of
plant diseases and insect pests; which purpose will not be accom-
plished unless importation of all plants is prevented.
2. If there is danger in importing trees and shrubs, there is also
danger in the importation of scions and buds; against which there
is no embargo.
3. There is as much danger in importing Rose stock for grafting
as there is in grafted stock and plants on their own roots.
4. If Lily bulbs, Lily-of-the-valley, Narcissus, Hyacinth, Tulips
and Crocuses can be imported, why are Snowdrops, Iris, Orchids,
Anemone, Astilbes, Begonias, Gladiolus, Gloxinias, etc., excluded?
5. We know of no good reason why Azaleas, Rhododendrons,
Araucarias, Boxwood, Bay Trees, Dracaenas, Palms, Orchids, etc.,
should not be imported. ;
6. Until plants needed can be produced here in the desired quality
and quantities, their importation should be permitted. large
number of these plants will, most likely, never be satisfactorily
produced in this country.
7. The enforcement of the embargo will deprive this country of
the benefits of horticultural progress made in foreign countries and
deny us the introduction of novelties produced abroad by horticul-
tural establishments of worldwide reputation, which are as much
interested in having their plants free of disease and insects as we are
ourselves.
8. Last, but not least, it is possible to prevent the importation
of diseases and insect pests through proper inspection and precau-
tionary measures made and taken at the points of shipment and
ports of import.
For the reasons herein stated we consider the ruling of the Fed-
eral Horticultural Board to be arbitrary and unwarranted. We
respectfully protest against the enforcement of this embargo, be-
cause we know that its results will be detrimental to the horticul-
tural interests of the United States.
As individuals and as an Association we are devoted to unre-
stricted progress and development of horticulture, which is facili-
tated and made possible through intercourse and close affiliation
with other progressive countries and interests.
The Secretary of Agriculture on March rst gave an audience to a joint
Committee of the American Association of Nurserymen and the Society of
American Florists and expressed himself as anxious to ascertain the real feelings of those concerned
and likely to be affected by Quarantine No. 37. Now is the opportunity for all interested to file objec-
tions.
Write at once to your Congressman and to the Secretary of Agriculture and help get a sus-
pension of the order which otherwise becomes effective on June 1 next.
The flowers of the Yellow-wood tree may be likened to a white
Labumum or Wisteria
The Yellowwood Tree.—If you are so fortunate
as to have a Yellowwood, or Virgilia tree, in your
garden, do not look for flowers on it this year.
It is a peculiar fact that this tree seldom blooms
two years in succession, and that practically
every tree in the North blooms the same season.
Last year they flowered freely, so that they are
not likely to have any blossoms this spring. Even
when not in flower though the Yellowwood is an
exceedingly attractive tree, and one wonders why
it is not planted more commonly. Years ago it
was often seen in Eastern States, especially in
public parks, but for some reason seems to have
gone out of fashion. Yet it is an easy tree to
grow, and has the best of habits, and always at-
tracts much attention when in bloom. It is a
native American and was found growing naturally
in some of the Southern States, being most abund-
ant in Tennessee. It sometimes grows sixty or
seventy feet high, and its pale, smooth bark re-
sembles that of the American Beech tree. It
has proved perfectly hardy in Massachusetts,
where, according to Professor Sargent, it was
first planted at least eighty years ago. Professor
Sargent calls it one of the handsomest trees that
can be used for the decoration of parks and gar-
dens. It seems to have been appreciated across
the water to a greater extent than in America.
Certainly it has been in cultivation in France for
more than a century. It flowers well there, but
seldom produces flowers in Great Britain, where
the sun is not hot enough to properly ripen the
flowering wood. The pure white flowers of the
Virgilia, or as botanists now call it, Cladrastis
lutea, are borne in long drooping racemes, like a
white Laburnum indeed.—E. F.
—An excellent illustration of a tree growing near
Chicago is given in THE GarDEN Macazine for
April, 1918.—Ed.
Rose Trellis for Cold Climates—IJn some sec-
tions of the country it is impossible to raise many
of the finest varieties of climbing Roses unless the
plants are laid down when cold weather comes.
The work of laying down the plants is made very
simple by means of an iron trellis, devised by
Mr. J. M. Underwood, of Minnesota. The trel-
lis is made of ordinary i iron pipe, either one-half
or three-quarter inch size. It can be made as
long as needed, and as high as required. Mr.
Underwood has one trellis seven feet high and
fifty feet long, devoted to Dorothy Perkins Roses.
In making the trellis, short pieces of pipe are
driven into the ground, eight feet apart. Lengths
of pipe as many feet long as the proposed height
ae
[ Che OPEN ‘COLUMN }
Readers ee and [Seas Experiences
Bus oe EF _ 9288
of the trellis are then coupled to these sunken
sections of pipe. Elbows are secured to the top
of the end pipes, and T’s to the top of the inter-
mediate pipes. Sections of pipe are then secured
to these elbows and T’s to form the top of the
trellis. Finally, lengths of galvanized wire are
run from post to post. When winter comes, a
bed of straw or leaves is made on the ground.
Then the trellis is uncoupled at the bottom and
laid down. After the nights begin to get cold,
the prostrate plants are covered with straw, over
which lengths of tar paper are fastened, being
held down with heavy twine or wires fastened
across them at intervals, and attached to the
pipes driven into the ground. The work of un-
coupling and laying down the trellis, and of setting
it up again in the spring, takes but a little time,
and the Roses go through even the severest win-
ters without damage. It is always better to
grow climbing Roses on a trellis in an open situa-
tion than to train them on the sides of a building.
Se Wicel
The trellis is made of iron pipe, and has couplings (A) to perma-
nent ground pieces. When winter comes the frame is easily
disconnected and laid down
A Plant for the Mud.—Here is a picture of
Sagittaria latifolia, our native Arrow-head or
Arrow-leaf as it is variously called. It is growing in
a drainage ditch where the water scarcely moves
and its roots seem to find the stiff yellow clay that
was filled in here only a year ago very congenial.
Its.seeds must have been brought in by the over-
flow of a near-by river. Unprotected and uncared
for it was exposed to the full glare of the sun. It
throve exceedingly. From the time that the
seeds started growth in late spring till the frosts
of autumn cut it down this patch as well as sev-
The native Arrow-head will solve the problem of how to decorate
that mud corer
eral others along the same ditch were very inter-
esting and tidy in appearance. Its bloom lasted
about three weeks. The water in the ditch was
not always at the same level, in fact this level
varied frequently, though the clay about the roots
was always wet. This would indicate the plant
to be well adapted to a water logged soil that has
Ci
Sweet Scabious in a rich variety of colors is an annual that
endures into early winter
little if any drainage. It is another plant to add
to the list of plants available for the difficult
places where the difficulties of the location are
congenial to its needs. The plant being a per-
ennial it becomes an easy matter to gather the
wild or native forms, while from some of the spe-
cialists in aquatic plants several horticultural var-
ieties of Arrow-leaf can be had.—C. L. Meller,
Fargo, N. D.
An Early Winter Flower.—A pretty late-
blooming flower is the Scabiosa. It does not
stand quite so much frost as the Calendula, the
Stock, and the Verbena, but, with us, blooms
until late in October. And it’is such a beautiful
flower! If I had but one annual to grow, that
annual would be the Sweet Scabtous. It is easily
handled, comes in a great variety of colors, is so.
airy and graceful, and no flower is better for cut-
ting. Another good late-flowering annual is the
Rudbeckia, Speciosa bicolor, the plant is very
coarse but the flower striking, especially when
massed.—d. D., Mitchell, Ontario.
Good Shrub for Fall Effects——Now that more
attention is being paid to fall gardens plants like
the native Viburnum cassinoides, which produce
great numbers of highly colored fruit are becom-
ing increasingly popular. This particular Vi-
burnum is one of the handsomest shrubs of East-
ern North America, and deserves to be more
widely used both in the planting of public parks
and in private gardens. The Arnold Arboretum,
near Boston, is one of the few places where it has
been planted as generously as its merits warrant,
and here it makes a splendid display, especially
in the fall. Some shrubs may be more brilliant
at that season, but few are more interesting or
produce so dainty an effect. ‘The fruit is yellow-
ish green at first. When full grown it gradually
changes to pink, and finally it turns dark blue, or
nearly black, and is covered with pale bloom.
It often happens that all three colors are found
together on the same plant, and perhaps in the
same cluster. The effect is exceedingly pleasing.
The flowers are slightly tinged with yellow, and
are borne in wide clusters. ~The plant is attrac-
tive when in flower, but is recommended especi-
ally for its fall beauty. As a shrub it has good
habits, and grows from four to six feet high, with
around top. ‘The leaves are thick and lustrous,
but differ greatly in size and shape. Altogether
this Viburnum is a plant of ied merits, so
why not plant it freely'—Z. F
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE,
APRIL, 1919
Heavy Mulching —My garden so far has been
mainly Roses, bulbs, Dahlits and perennials’
large enough to profit by mulching. I offer as
a suggestion in your columns the advantage ot
heavy mulching for Rose beds, bulb beds, and
large plants to eliminate weeding and watering,
to maintain an even, cool, moist, soil during the,
hottest droughts. Right through the worst heat
and droughts my Roses bloom like they do in
early spring because these heavy mulchings keep
the soil always damp and cool. In this way I
apply manure water by letting the sky do the
work, thus: the mulch is old cow manure with
a layer of leaf mold on top for covers; conse-
quently every time it rains, liquid manure 1s car-
ried to the Rose roots. There is nothing as labor
saving in all my experiences as these heavy
mulches and they are helpful to most flowers with
the exception of the German Iris—Mrs. James
Baker, Easton, Md.
Growing Onions on Heavy Soil.—One of the
best wrinkles I have struck in growing onions on
heavy soil is to use sand in which to sow the seeds.
The way I proceed is as follows: The soil being
a clay was plowed in the fall and left rough during
the winter for Jack Frost to break it up finely.
In spring the clods were raked down as smoothly
and finely as possible and sheep manure added
to the surface before raking. Lines were then
marked for the onions and drills made with a
small pointed hoe. Next I used a large tin can
with a hole in the bottom to let dry sand flow
freely into the drill, thus covering the bottom of
the drill with about a quarter of an inch of sand.
On this sand the onion seeds were sown thinly
and a second lot of sand scattered over them in
the same way as the first lot. Thus the onion
seedlings had only sand instead of clods of clay
to push away when they sprouted. As another
practice I sowed a few radish seeds to mark the
exact positions of the rows, but this was not nec-
essary, because the sand itself indicated where
the rows really were. The result of this experi-
ment was highly satisfactory; whereas the year
before I had failed to get even a reasonably fair
stand of onions, this practice gave me a good one.
Ordinary cultivation and the application of poul-
try manure beside the plants made about as good
onions as one could expect on such heavy soil as
I then had.— WM. G. K., Long Island.
Horned-violet and Alpine Wallflower.—In
thinking back over the experiments and experi-
ences of the past summer in the garden, two
plants stand out vividly as having been particu-
larly lovely and satisfactory. Early last March
I went out from the city to have a look at my gar-
den and was astonished and delighted to find,
besides the chilly Snowdrops and the yellow Jas-
mine upon the south wall, broad, spreading
patches of bright lilac color in more than one
sheltered location. The little Horned-violet
Papilio was responsible for this gay display—so
much gayer and earlier than I had ever known
from any other variety of Viola cornuta. It has
the same long-petaled, sprightly-looking flowers
as the type, but they are larger and the upper
petals are bright lavender and the lower white.
Most of the plants then flowering were self sown
from a few that I had bought, and they had found
their way to odd corners of the walls and steps
and here and there completely buried the edge
of a border. They were still blooming, late in
October, but enjoyed a needed rest during the
period of distressing drought when I gave them
a good cutting over, removing all the seed pods
and shortening all the branches. Blooming so
early these flowers may be most delightfully used
among the spring flowering bulbs; set in and
about the groups of Daffodils and Scillas and as
an interplanting for the stiff early Tulips. I can
imagine the beautiful salmon-orange Tulip De
Wet shining with incomparable effect above a
carpet of the gay lavender and white flowers.
All the Horned-violets thrive best in a soil that is
somewhat retentive of moisture rather than where
it is very dry, but they appear to enjoy unlimited
sunshine. Their manifest wellbeing in my gravel
path is explained by the fact that there is always
plenty of moisture to be found among the loose
stones and sufficient nourishment to sustain them
is washed down from the rich soil of the borders.
The other plant which has given me so much
pleasure is Cheiranthus Allionti, an Alpine Wall-
flower of garden origin, if such a thing may be
said. I have been told many times by gardeners
that this plant is not hardy but I have found it
perfectly sturdy even in the face of many degrees
below zero, but it requires a dry, well drained soil
and a sunny location for its safety. Winter
damp will kill it, but not winter cold, so it should
never be entrusted to a heavy retentive soil. It
is, however, distinctly a biennial, which may ac
count for its reputation for a frail constitution.
It has much of the charm of other Wallflowers;
a warm fragrance, a bright, pure yellow color and
it grows into a stout little bush about a foot in
height. It starts its blossoming with that of the
early Tulips and continues for full two months.
Moreover, once introduced into the garden, this
gold-headed little plant will always be there for
it seeds itself generously, and as is so often the
case, these chance colonies are the strongest,
most floriferous, and most effectively placed.
A few packages of seed of these two flowers this
spring would cost little and would provide much
gaiety and beauty in the garden. If sown early
in a frame or in flats indoors, both will bloom the
first year.—Louise Beebe Wilder, Pomona, N. Y.
Cotton-seed Meal and Sheep Manure as Fer-
tilizers—We attribute much of our success in
gardening last summer to the use of cotton-seed
meal and dried sheep manure as fertilizers.
Stable manure is expensive and very hard to ob-
tain in our community, so we purchased one hun-
dred pounds each of cotton-seed meal and dried
sheep manure, at a cost of $5.40 for the two.
Our garden plot is about fifty feet square. The
sheep manure was used generally in the garden,
sprinkling it over the surface before digging.
Larger quantities were used in the rows of lettuce,
squash, cabbage, cucumbers and tomatoes, mix-
ing it with the soil in the furrows before planting
the seed, and also hoeing it in occasionally after
the plants were up. It is better to use small
quantities frequently, as it is a very strong fer-
tilizer and too large applications may burn the
plants. It was also used as the basis of liquid
manure wherever a quick stimulant was needed
—on lettuce and cucumbers, especially. Two
large tablespoons of sheep manure steeped in
ten quarts of warm water makes a solution of the
right strength. The sheep manure improved
the texture of the soil, the small particles tending
to make the soil light and porous. The cotton-
seed meal was hoed in after the corn was well up, -
and was used in the same way with the potatoes,
beets, cabbage, and turnips. A steel rake helps
to mix it with the soil and prevents it forming a
cake on the surface. A former experience with
peas convinced us that cotton-seed meal should
never be put into the furrow with the seed, as its
liability to cake causes decay. It is a wonderful
Just because his peas were the earliest in town!
stimulant for the lawn if applied before a shower
or before using the sprinkler. In addition to the
fertilizer which we Sea va the garden received
a liberal coat of compost, which was spread over
each section before spading, and added much
humus to the soil. Diseased or insect-infested
plants should never be added to the compost
heap, but should be burned at once-—Anna M.
Burke, Mass.
Iris Notes from Califronia.—A correspondent
in Los Angeles writes me the ‘following: “I
have two Irises in my garden that bloom contin-
ually from fall until spring. Of course conditions
are quite different here from those in the East,
and many of your spring flowers blossom here in
the winter. But even here my’ named German
Irises do not bloom until about April and only
once during the year, so that I feel that the long
flowering period of the two Irises mentioned is not
caused by the California climate. One of these
Irises is white with a yellow beard and is very
sweet-scented and the other is purple with a yel-
low beard and has a rather strong odor. They
were in the garden when | came here and I do not
know their names but they are exceedingly com-
mon in this neighborhood. The foliage is ever-
green. The white Iris begins to bloom about
October and continues through March. The
bloom is abundant now (January) but it is at its
height in the middle of February usually, varying
according to the rainy season. This Iris is a
large flower and its stem is 24 inches or more.
. The purple Iris blooms nearly every month in
. the year although in the hottest weather there
is only an occasional flower.” I am not able to
* come to any conclusion concerning the identity
of these Irises but am hoping that some Californ-
ian reader may recognize them and let us know
what they are. They do not tally with the de-
scriptions of any Californian species that I have
at hand and it would certainly be interesting to
hear more of them. My correspondent says that
upon seeing a large bunch of the purple kind in a
florist’s window she went in and asked their name.
The clerk informed her that they were not Iris
at all ““but a common garden Lily like the Calla
and was called Flag Lily.” Of course Irises are
often called Flag Lilies and even Day Lilies in
country neighborhoods, and florists’ clerks are
frequently equipped with but the most casual
knowledge of their lovely wares, so the informa-
tion offered by this one is probably worth noth-
ing. Moreover my correspondent is quite con-
vinced that her plants are Irises and I for one
would like very much to know what they are and
how they would behave in our eastern gardens.
—L B. Wilder.
Currants and Gooseberries Kept Free from Pests.
—Last summer I was particularly successful in
keeping my currants and gooseberries free from
aphis and currant worms. This I attribute partly
to my knowledge of the habits of these creatures,
but partly to the prompt action I took in spray-
ing. As soon as I discovered the first currant
worm, I used arsenate of lead at the strength
recommended on the package. One spraying
was all that was necessary. No other worm ap-
peared during the whole season and the plants
were as full of leaves in September and October
as they were in May. Some of my neighbors
neglected spraying so lost all their foliage before
the first of June. As the insects start work on
the lower part of the bush and on the interior |
sprayed these parts thoroughly with an angle
nozzle directed upward. ‘This placed most of
the poison on the under sides of the leaves so it
was not washed off by showers. To control the
aphis I used black leaf 40, according to directions
and applied from beneath. ‘The result was that
I got the under sides of the leaves so thoroughly
covered, that not only was the first brood of aphis
destroyed, but I had no further trouble with the
pest all summer.—M. G. K., Long Island.
}
=
And earth unto her finger tips
Tingles with the spring.
—Wm. Watson
April Days
Surely these April days are the best of all the
year in the garden; so full of bird song are they,
of bursting buds and frail flowers, of green things
thrusting through the mold and the warm fra-
grance of newly turned earth. Even the April
rains are more beneficent and delightful than any
others. I once had an old gardener who always
spoke of the April rains as “these ’ere drawin’
showers,’ and it does seem as if one could fairly
see the plants being drawn forth without any
volition of their own. To me this is the season
when I am most loath to work. My desire is to
lag—if the comfortable word may be so used—
up and down the garden paths just seeing, and
feeling and smelling, and the knowledge that
everything is needing to be done does not seem
to dim the desire. There is so much one wants to
know, too. What has been the effect upon the
plants of this strangely restrained winter? how
have the Alpines weathered it and have the Tea
Roses died of astonishment? what is going on in
the corner where the new Lilies were set out, and
which old friends must we mourn? Nor is idle-
ness, now and again, such bad practice in a gar-
den. Ifwerake and spray and pursue the slug all
of our waking hours our minds become obscessed
with the probability of trouble and our eyes
are blinded to the small lovelinesses and ecstatic
happenings that the garden gets up for our de- ,
light. In a one time suburban experience I had
a neighbor who could Jook out of her second story
window into my garden, and did I ever sink down
upon my comfortable garden seat for a moment’s
rest her voice would ring out from above, “ Dear
me, I wish I had time to just sit in my garden.
Just see how the Chickweed grows in that west
border of yours!” Well, I am glad I can sit in
my garden and not see the Chickweed—some
times. Gardens are intended primarily for our
delight, and when we cannot go into them without
looking for trouble it is a sign that our nerves
are out of kilter, or that some other vocation—
housemaiding—for instance, is more in our line.
Old Reliables
Last month Mr. May made an eloquent plea
for a greater use of hardy perennials, and gave a
comprehensive list of varieties that will carry us
gaily through the growing season. Of course we
would not shut out all annuals, but as Mr. May
said, the “old reliables” should be the foundation
of tHe garden. It was these tested old friends,
long resident in the same beds and borders that
gave to the gardens of long ago their special at-
mosphere and charm. Lingering in my mind is
this phrase, read somewhere of an old fashioned
garden; “‘a place of leisurely aristocratic old roots
and carefully conducted flowers.’’ What a pleas-
ant picture is invoked for us; sheltered banks
where Snowdrops in great clumps and sweet white
Violets bloom early; where Daffodils in mass
formation crowd beneath the old fruit trees whose
gnarled branches reach across the borders | and
narrow paths; where Johnny-jump-ups ‘carpet
the ground beneath great bushes of old-fashioned
Roses, and Peonies have waxed fat and opulent
through long lives of peace and comfort. Here
by
Author of My
a
we should find mats of fragrant Thyme and Mar-
joram, thickets of double Campion and Mullein
Pink and long lines of Purple Flags, and here
slender-stemmed Larkspurs, single Hollyhocks
and little round bitter-sweet Chrysanthemums.
How surely we should know where to turn for
Lihes-of-the-valley in May or for the frail bubbles
of the Autumn Crocus: when to expect the first
Moss Rosebud or white Lilac plume. It is a
place, in short, with all of whose moods and ways
we are familiar, that has “the suggestion of perma-
nence, of length of days and generations of men.”
In sharp contrast is such a garden to the many
of to-day that boast not one hospitable tree and
where patient beds of bare brown earth await the
rows of tender annuals that will be set out when
all danger of frost is past. In our thirst for a con-
tinuous performance in the garden many a fine
old perennial is pushed aside and many a fine
native ignored. Garden Heliotrope is a beautiful
plant that has quite gone out of fashion, and one
seldom sees Sweet Rocket, double or single, or
the old Bachelors’ Buttons or Fair-maids-of-
France so good for cutting, and Moss and China
and Cabbage Roses have not even been heard
of by many a smart modern gardener.
19?
‘““Here’s Rosemary For You!
“Rosemary becomes a window well,” wrote
a gardener more than three hundred years ago,
and so it does to-day though few seem to know it.
I happened upon the knowledge quite by accident
and after many and various attempts to induce
the hoary, fragrant southerner to live in my cold
garden. No gardener can browse in old horti-
cultural literature or wander in old world gardens
and not want to grow Rosemary, so long loved
and so intimately associated with the lives of
gardening humanity. Its very name—Ros-
marinus, Dew of the Sea—is quite charming
enough in itself to make one want it; and how
pleasant it is to read that it grows so plentifully
along the shores and sandy slopes of the Mediter-
ranean that “the odor of it is many times smelt
by those in the ships that passe by many leagues
off from the land.” I wanted it very much
indeed to set between my other herbs and when
I read in the little leather-bound volume with
stained yellow pages that it became a window
well I, like Sentimental Tommy, “saw a way.”
That autumn all the Rosemary seedlings were
potted up in light sandy loam and placed i in a
sunny window and how they grew and prospered!
They spread out their dusty looking branches
and multiplied their sweet-scented, narrow leaves,
most certainly pleased with the arrangement.
In the spring they were repotted to accommo-
date their increased size and the pots sunk in a
sunny border where grew Thyme, Lavender and
Marjoram. This winter they are stout little
bushes, and it is most delightful to stand before
their pleasant gray-greenery invoking the
quick, spicy fragrance by a touch as we look
out upon a white winter world.
The plants seem heir to none of the insect
pests or diseases that harry the lives of many
house plants and seem to demand no special
consideration beyond being kept on the side of
dryness—watered only about twice a week and
then thoroughly. And they, of course, require
a sunny window.
Patching the Borders
If there are blanks to be filled in the neigh-
borhood of Sea-hollies or Globe-thistles, nothing
is prettier for the purpose than the pure pink
Zinnia known as Farquhar’s Rose Pink. The
blue and silver color scheme of the perennials
is in fine accord with the peculiarly lovely color
113
» THROUGH, THE CARDEN Gal
TSE
Garcen' and Coffur indy Garden”
Wilder
tone of the Zinnias, and the latter continue to
bloom long after the Globe-thistles and Sea-hol-
ies have ceased to be ornamental.
A fine annual for patching is Salvia horminium
Bluebeard. The plant grows about eighteen
inches tall and throws up many stems of strong
blue-violet floral leaves that are extremely decor-
ative, and continue to develop throughout the
summer and autumn. This deep blue-violet
color produces a very rich effect in association
with such brilliant Phloxes as Baron von Dedem
or Coquelicot. It is also charming in the neigh-
borhood of Sea-lavenders and rose and white
Physostegias. The seed is hardy and may be
sown early and when once established in the
garden the plants self-sow freely and there are
always many thrifty young plants on hand for
use in the spring.
Another annual for this purpose, and it seems
little known, is the Cape Anchusa (Anchusa
capensis). It has all the good characteristics of
its popular family including the drought resisting
powers and the coerulean color, but it is smaller
in all its parts, growing not more than eighteen
inches tall and having narrow leaves. Set out
near to clumps of Gypsophila its sky-blue blos-
soms show through the misty flowering of the
Chalk Plant in a way to charm the most disparag-
ing eye. It blooms all summer until frost, and
self sows freely.
The Pasque Flower
One of the most lovely flowers of the early
spring is surely the Pasque-flower (Anemone
Pulsatilla). The plants grow but a few inches
in height and are covered all over with long silky
hairs. The large pale purple blossoms are each
One of the earliest blue flowers of spring is the Pasque-flower
(Anemone Pulsatilla) of which there is a fine native counterpart
in A Nuttalliana
surrounded bya collarette of the most delicate
and feathery green that creates a delightful setting
for them. They are native throughout Europe
and are found in dry, chalky soil in open places.
There are pale lilac and white forms also and if
fresh seed may be procured they are easily and
quickly raised from seed. The Pasque-flowers
are fine in the rock garden but thrive equally well
at the edge of a dry, well drained border.
I am interested to note!in the catalogue of a
Western collector, Anemone patens Nuttalliana,
the American Pasque-flower, and wonder if any
reader has tried this sort. Anemone globosa,
the Red Anemone is also offered by the same col-
lector. This plant has lived in my garden for
several years but has not yet bloomed. I am
hoping for better behavior this spring.
The Sargent Cherry, now known as Prunus serrulata sachalinensis,
considered the best of all the single-flowered Cherries
Early Spring in the
People of Japan Make Long Pilgrimages to Enjoy the Cherry Blossoms in Their Spring Landscape.
Double-flowering Cherry James H. Veitch,
with rose-pink flowers. Very omamental
Japanese spring Cherry, Prunus subhirtella,
the most floriferous of the Japs
Arnold Arboretum 1. a. HaveMEYER
The American Gardener Mak-
ing His Pilgrimages to the Arnold Arboretum Will Find, Not Only the Cherries of Japan, But Other
Woody Plants That Unfold Their Blossoms With Equal Glory for Us
Epiror’s Note.—This is the second article in a series of intimate comments upon the spectacles of the Arnold Arboretum that Mr. Havemeyer has
That gentleman is familiar with the plants, not only as he sees them in the Arboretum, but also in the
undertaken to write for THE GARDEN Macazin_.
rich collections in his own gardens on Long Island.
MONG the first shrubs to thrust forth
their blossoms: are the Forsythias.
Apart from the value of all the species
as garden plants Forsythia is of special
interest to gardeners for, like Syringa and Phil-
adelphus, it is a genus whose species hybridize
freely and produce new seedling forms which
are often superior to the parents. The hybrid
Forsythias are probably all natural, that is, they
have probably appeared without man’s assis-
tance, and those which are now known seems
to have been produced by the crossing of F.
viridissima with F. suspensa, or its variety
Fortunei. The general name of these plants is
Forsythia intermedia and there are several forms.
Those in the Arboretum collection are planted
at the rear of the large mass of Forsythias on the
bank at the base of Bussey Hill Road, below the
Lilac collection. The handsomest of them is F.
intermedia spectabilis, and of all the Forsythias
which have been grown in the Arboretum this is
the most beautiful. The flowers are larger than
those of its parents, and deep bright yellow.
This plant was sent to the Arboretum from Ger-
many several years ago. Other distinct and
handsome forms of the hybrid are the varieties
primulina and pallida; the former has pale prim-
rose-colored flowers and appeared as a seedling in
the Arboretum a few years ago; pallida has pale
straw-colored flowers which are paler than those
of other Forsythias. The flower buds of these
hybrids appear to suffer less from extreme cold
than those of either of their parents, at least in
the Arboretum, and the buds of the different
forms of F. intermedia have never been injured
by cold.
7ITHOUT any doubt, I think the loveliest of
flowering plants are the Crab-apples and
Flowering Cherries and the Arboretum is most
fortunate to possess a wonderful collection of
these trees, probably the best collection in
existence.
During the last few years it has been engaged
in studying the Cherry-trees of eastern Asia,
and has assembled a large collection of these
plants, including most of the species and all the
forms with double and otherwise abnormal
flowers which are popular garden plants in Japan
where the flowering of these trees is celebrated
by national rejoicings. Allthe world has heard
of the Japanese Cherry-blossoms, and travelers
in the East usually so arrange their journeys that
they can be in Tokio when the white flowers of
fifty thousand trees of the Yoshino-Zakura
(Prunus yedoensis) make a day of Thanksgiving,
and the great trees in the long Avenue of Cherry-
trees (P. serrulata) at Koganei are covered with
their rose-colored flowers.
Well known to travelers, too, are the avenues
of Cherry-trees at Arashi-yama near Kyoto and
at Yoshino near Nara. The Cherry-trees which
mean so much to the Japanese and delight all
foreigners who visit Japan in early spring are
perfectly hardy, and easy to grow; and it is unfor-
tunate that there is no hillside in the Arboretum
which can be covered with the trees or no space
where a long avenueof them can be planted, for the
flowering of a great number of these trees might
become as great a joy for us as they are in Japan.
Such a collection of Cherry-trees might well
form a part of the equipment for pleasure and
instruction in all northern cities of the country,
but up to this time only Rochester, New York,
is arranging to make a plantation of these trees
to cover many acres of rolling hills in its great
park on the shores of Lake Ontario.
In the Arboretum room for only a few isolated
individuals has been found, but most of the
species are now established there and some of
them have bloomed for several years.
LITTLE Cherry, Prunus concinna, dis-
covered by E. H. Wilson on the mountains of
Central China at an altitude above the sea of
from twelve to fifteen hundred feet, is one of the
first Cherries to bloom in the Arboretum (about
May 10). Inits homeit isa shrub five or six feet
tall, but here it is treelike in habit, although only
three or four feet high with a straight stem. When
in bloom it is as thickly covered with flowers as it
is possible for a plant to be. The flowers, which
appear before the leaves, are in few-flowered clust-
ers, and are white witha wine-colored calyx. The
red, lustrous, loose bark of the stem of this Cherry-
tree is attractive but as a flowering plant it is less
valuable than the Japanese Prunus subhirtella,
under which name it was once distributed by a
114
London nurseryman. Prunus concinna can be
seen in the collection of Chinese shrubs on the
southern slope of Bussey Hill.
Blooming simultaneously with Prunus concinna
is Prunus tomentosa; it is a native of China and
a shrub only five or six feet high, and when fully
grown in abundant space for the spread of its
branches is often broader than tall.
The flowers
Double-flowering Japanese Cherry is most ornamental. Photo-
graph of the garden of Mrs. J. M. Amory, Larchmont, N. Y.
open from pink buds as the leaves begin to unfold,
and the bright red stalks and calyx make a hand-
some contrast with the white petals. The small
fruit ripens in June and is scarlet, covered with
short hairs, and is sweet and of good flavor. This
shrub is very hardy and flourishes and produces
its fruit in dry cold regions like Alberta and in
the Dakotas, and in such regions it is possible
it may develop into an important fruit-producing
plant. Prunus tomentosa is a native of northern
China and was raised in the Arboretum twenty-
five years ago from seed sent from Peking. A
1919
APRIL,
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Golden Bell (Forsythia) is surely one of the most valuable of all our spring flowering shrubs. Usually it is not given sufficient space
parent
form discovered in
western China by
Wilson (var. endo-
)) tricha) is also estab-
lished in the Arbo-
retum. This blooms
rather later than the
northern plant and the
fruit is destitute or near-
ly destitute of hair.
The white-flowered
form much cultivated
in Tokio is not in the
Arboretum collection.
"THE JAPANESE
SPRING CHERRY
(Prunus _subhirtella)
which Mr. E. H. Wilson,
after a year devoted in
One of the forms of
hybrid Forsythia in-
termedia which are
better than either
Japan to the study of
Cherry-trees, calls “‘the
most floriferous and per-
haps the most delightful
of all Japanese Cherries,”
is a large, low-branched
shrub rather than a tree
and is not known as a wild
plant. This Cherry is much
planted in western Japan
from northern Hondo
southward, but it is not
much grown in the eastern
part of the Empire and is rarely found
in Tokio gardens. For this reason,
and as it does not reproduce itself
from seed, Prunus subhirtella is still
very rare in American and European
collections. There are large plants
in the Arboretum collection where
they have been growing since 1894
and where, covered with their droop-
ing pink flowers in May, they are
objects of exquisite beauty.
The value of Prunus subhirtella
is increased by the fact that the
flowers often remain in good condition
for ten or twelve days, and longerthan
those of the other single-flowered Cherry-tree.
This cherry can be raised from: soft wood cuttings
and by grafting on its own seedlings. These will
grow into tall trees with long straight trunks
(Prunus subhirtella ascendens) and in Japanese
temple gardens are sometimes fifty feet high
with trunks two feet in diameter. This is a com-
mon tree in the forests of central Japan, and grows
also in southern Korea and central China. Until
Wilson’s investigations in Japan in 1914 this tree
seems to have been entirely unknown in western
gardens. Raised from the seed of Prunus sub-
hirtella, which was produced in large quantities
every year, it grows here rapidly and proves to be
a handsome tree. It has the drooping flowers
of the well-known Prunus pendula of gardens
which is only a seedling form of Prunussubhirtella,
the variety pendula. The largest tree seen by Wil-
son was sixty-five feet tall with a head as broad as
the height of the tree. ‘There is a form of P. sub-
115
Prunus tomentosa, one of the earliest flowering Cherries, blooming
about the tenth of May
hirtella (var. autumnalis), with semi-double flow-
ers, which blooms in both spring and autumn.
This is a shrub cultivated in Tokio gardens, and
in the Arboretum first flowered in May, 1915.
The Cherry which has been most generally
planted in Tokio is Prunus yedoensis. It is a
small tree with smooth gray bark, wide-spreading
branches, and large pale pink or white flowers
produced in the greatest profusion, which usually
open before the leaves unfold. It has not been
found growing wild in Japan, and Wilson after
studying it in Tokio was inclined to believe it
was a hybrid. But, whatever its origin, it is a
hardy, fast-growing tree which produces beauti-
ful flowers and should be better known in this
country and Europe.
F ALL single-flowered Cherry-trees the most
beautiful and most valuable for our gardens
is Prunus serrulata sachalinensis. This tree,
which was called Prunus Sargentii until it was
discovered that it had an older name, is believed
to be the handsomest of the large Cherry-trees
of eastern Asia. In the forests of northern Japan
and Saghalin it is a tree often seventy-five feet
high, with a trunk four feet in diameter; it has
large pale pink or rose-colored single flowers,
large dark green leaves which are deep bronze
color as they unfold with the opening flower-buds,
and small globose fruits which are bright red at
first when fully grown and become black and lus-
trouswhen ripe. Inwestern countries this tree was
first raised in the Arboretum in 1890 from seeds sent
by Dr. William Sturgis Bigelow, of Boston. It has
been found that the seedlings of this tree are the
best stock on which to graft most of the double-
flowered Cherries which are so highly prized by
Japanese gardeners and that the reason why these
plants have never been successfully grown in the
United States or Europe is due to the fact that
Japanese gardeners do not use suitable stock for
them. Some seventy-five named varieties of
these cherries with double or otherwise abnormal
flowers, cultivated in Japan, are now in the Ar-
boretum where they are being propagated.
Among them are fifteen named varieties of the
Sargent Cherry, and among these are some of the
most beautiful of all flowering trees hardy in this
climate and evidently destined, although as yet
little known, to become important features in
American gardens. Two of the handsomest of
these double-flowered varieties of the Sargent
Cherry are the forms albo-rosea and Fugenzo;
the former has large rose-colored flowers ghanging
to white as they open, and the other rose-pink
flowers; this is well known in English gardens
under the name of James H. Veitch. These two
Cherries differ from the other Japanese double-
flowered forms in the presence of two leafy carpels
in the centre of the flowers.
Inoculation for Beans and Peas a 8. ross
Practical Means of Introducing Root Bacteria that Catch Nitrogen from the Air.
INE times out of ten it’s just lack of
nitrogen when your lima beans fail to
make good; and if your pea vines have
an unhealthy color and an “‘off” yield,
or if your string beans are stunted and diseased,
you can figure that they are so because they lack
the one thing they must have above all others—
nitrogen.
The joke of it is that you can have nitrogen in
unlimited quantities without money and without
price. It is literally as “free as air,” because you
can get it from the air if you will.
If you are not acquainted with the nitrogen-
gathering bacteria it might be a good idea to
introduce yourself. Dig up a couple of clover
plants. Pick one that is vigorous, dark green,
healthy, and from some near-by spot pick one
that is a typical “scrub.” Dig them carefully,
for the bacteria are easily broken from the roots.
When you get the plants out shake the earth from
the roots and look them over. You will find the
vigorous plant covered with little finger-like
warts and the “scrub” will have few or none.
The vigor of the plant depends absolutely on
these friendly colonies of bacteria, which fasten
on the roots of the plant, start their nitrogen
making factories, reducing the nitrogen of the air
to digestible plant food.
Nitrogen and Vigor
O* ALL the elements of plant food, nitrogen
is the most important; with a scarcity of
nitrogen the vigor of the plant, root and branch,
is limited. With nitrogen its foraging power 1s
greatly increased. It hunts in wider areas for
its supplies of potash and phosphoric acid. A
deep, rich green color shows a plant well fed with
nitrogen.
All plants can and do use nitrogen from man-
ures, humus in its various forms, and from the
nitrogen carriers of commercial fertilizer. But
to give nitrogen in any of these forms to peas,
beans, or limas is like “carrying coals to New-
castle.”
While the peas and beans can and do use nitro-
gen from manures and humus it 1s also true that
if the bacteria are on their roots in goodly quanti-
ties they leave more nitrogen in the ground when
they have finished than was in the ground when
they started.
Perhaps it would be better to put it in this
way: manure and humus are excellent for beans
and peas; but manure plus inoculation is infinitely
better. Peas and beans can use nitrogen from
commercial fertilizer, but they will do very much
better if they are not given any nitrogen from
these sources and are inoculated so as to carry the
bacteria.
Habits of the Bacteria
HE bacteria fasten on the roots of the peas
and beans, draw on the host plants for their
food and on the air for their nitrogen, which they
store in large quantities. Part of this stored
nitrogen the plant uses at once; the rest of it be-
comes available when the bacteria die and decay.
In the cool weather of the spring the bacteria
in the author’s
first show right under the crown of the plants,
a finger-like wart on peas and a small round
ball on the beans. Under favorable conditions
the crowns are full of them. From the crowns
they spread out on the lateral roots near the
surface. So long as the ground is moist and the
weather is cool you will find the bacteria thickest
near the surface.
But the bacteria are sensitive to heat; and, as
the ground warms and dries, these upper bacteria
die amd decay, and the later bacteria are found
deeper and deeper, always in moist, cool earth.
The rains work the decayed nitrogen into lower
levels, and the roots go after it. In this riotous
feast on nitrogen the plant roots go deeper and
deeper as the supply goes down. And when the
hot, dry weather of summer comes the root sys-
tem has been so deeply set that the plants can
resist drought to a very unusual degree. Also
the plants being in prime vigor and constantly
fed can resist. diseases which make short work of
the unhealthy “scrubs.”
When the peas and beans are through with their
crop the whole area occupied by their roots will
be impregnated with the excess nitrogen, and
the root system will become humus for the crops
which follow. The legumes will have performed
the labor for which Nature designed them, for
their function is to restore fertility of which the
non-legumes rob the soil.
How to Inoculate Seed
6-0z. bottle of pure culture is enough to
inoculate 4 quarts of peas or limas, or 6
quarts of string beans. If you have more seed
to be treated add cold water in proportion re-
quired.
For a moderate amount of seed a very good
way is to use two clean pans and a colander.
Put the seed in the colander, pour the liquid over
the seed, catching the drippings in one of the
pans. Put the second lot of seed in the colander,
set it in the other pan and pour the liquid from
pan No. 1 over it, etc. Stir the seed in the colan-
der to make sure that allis moistened. ‘The solu-
tion is perfetcly harmless. Do not try to save
any of the liquid for future use. It spoils quickly
after the bottle is open.
Whatever liquid you have left over after treat-
ing your seeds should be mixed with earth and
sprinkled in the drills and hills with the seed to
make assurance doubly sure.
The work of inoculation should be done in the
shade and the seed sown as soon as possible
after being moistened. If you cannot sow right
away, put the seed away in a dark, cool, place
and sow as soon as you can; for best results
come with quick sowing after treatment.
The inoculation of lima beans requires more
care, but it pays great dividends.
If you soak the limas in the solution the skins
will break, which will not do at all. If you are
going to sow them right away moisten them with
the solution and be sure to put a pinch of the
solution-moistened earth into the drills or hills
with the beans. This will make inoculation
s garden: Behind the chicken house vigorous pole limas, inoculated; in centre bush limas not treated, and a flat failure
116
Bettering the Soil for Later Different Crops
vtay
These _— on the roots of beans, etc.,are : veritab tmoney-baes.
Here live the bacteria that catch nitrogen
practically sure. And with limas the presence
of the bacteria makes an enormous. difference,
frequently the difference between a howling suc-
cess and a dismal failure.
In the east there has been a good deal of
trouble in. getting a stand of limas. The wire
worms and other underground pests have a
nasty habit of destroying the first leaves before
they get through the ground; so that it is not
uncommon for perfectly good seed to give a very
poor stand. .
To get ahead of these pests a very good way is
to sprout the limas before planting. Take some
earth from the garden, bake it thoroughly in the
oven for two hours. After it is entirely cooled
put earth and limas in successive Jayers in a box
first treating the seed with the inoculating ma-
terial. You can lay the limas fairly thick im
their layer, and the layers of earth need not be
thick at all. After you have the box loaded,
pour the rest of the inoculating material over
it, and finish the moistening process with cold
water.
Put the box in a warm place—under a stove
or radiator, or in a south window—and see that
the ground is kept moist until the seed are well
sprouted. You can let the seeds go until they
are forming roots. Plant the sprouted seed in
the hills or drills, with a pinch of the earth,
cover an inch deep, and, if the ground and
weather are warm, the plants will begin to come
through within forty-eight hours, before the bugs
have time to get busy on them. Incidentally,
also, you will have gained a lot of time in the
bearing season of the limas.
These cultures are prepared in commercial
form and may be purchased at a very small cost
from the manufacturers—naming the crop for
which the bacteria are desired and remember the
method applies to the legume family only not to
crops in general.
Free samples may also be had from the U. S.
Department of Agriculture (Division of Bacter-
iology), Washington, by applying two weeks
before you want the material, gtating also the
crop to be grown and the date of planting.
Each person can have but ‘one culture. So you
must decide whether you will apply for culture for
string beans or peas or limas. You cannot inocu-
late any other garden vegetables than these.
corn, chickens, or melons.
as -
a ——: ©. en a
A really good melon is something worth while! Why grow any
other kind?
OOD and poor quality melons unfor-
tunately look alike. Yet a good melon
is one of the richest and most luscious
of fruits but a poor insipid one is ter-
ribly disappointing and it is only after tasting
that the difference is realized.
I am a firm believer in selection, whether it be
If you breed from in-
ferior stock you are sure to have inferior products.
The proper selection of good seeds for the melon
crop is more important than the actual cultivation
of the plants! I have seen fairly good melons
grown from good seeds with careless cultivation,
but I have never seen any good melons grown
from poor seeds.
For more than twelve years I have been select-
ing a strain of melons, every year, during that
period selecting my seed as carefully as I could,
and during that time I have noticed an improve-
ment; nothing marvelous, but an improvement,
nevertheless.
In the beginning I selected what I considered
a good type of melon, one which I had hopes of
building up into what I regard as the ideal melon’
—moderate size, green rind, good firm salmon-
colored flesh, small seed cavity, and early ripening.
Emerald Gem comes nearer this mark than any
other, so I selected it for a basis. Each year I
selected from the first three or four melons to
ripen my seed supply for the following year, but
each of the melons from which I saved seed had
all the good points that I was seeking. I now
have what I consider an extra fine type of melon.
It is early, for by selecting seed each year from
the first melons to ripen I have developed an
early ripening strain. This is important, because
the cool nights of August are quite a hardship
when the vines are carrying a heavy load of fruit,
but if that load is reduced by some of the melons
ripening before the cool nights come along the
plants do not seem to suffer. I have seen some
very promising melon crops develop into failures
solely because of late ripening. There has also
been a steady improvement in the other essentials
of the ideal melon. My melons are very high
flavored and of a good rich salmon red which,
contrasted with a green rind, makes them far
more appetizing to me than any green-fleshed
melon. Now the point of all this is that any one
else can do exactly the same thing.
AFIER the proper selection of the seeds,
planting is to be considered. I have seen
some very good results without the use of melon
frames but my observation and experience lead
to the conclusion that the melon frames will soon
Anybody Can Have Them.
pay for themselves. They are inexpen-
sive and reallyno garden is properly com-
plete without a few such aids. Of course,
any one that is at all handy with tools
could very easily makethem him-
self. A melon frame is simply a
square box 24 x 24 in., with a
slanting top about 9 inches high
in front and 12 inches in back.
If you do not want to get sash
get some 24x 24 in. glass for
the top.
Before the frames are brought
into use first prepare the hills.
This is next in importance to
selecting the seed. Dig a space three
feet across and from two to two and a
half feet deep, always throwing the top
soil to one side, and the “‘bottom spit”’
to the other. Space the hills eight feet
each way. If there is any old sod con-
venient, useitto preparethehills. Chop
it up rather fine and thoroughly incor-
porate with it about one third the bulk
of good, well-rotted manure. Cow man-
ure is preferable. The manure for the purpose
should not be thick and soggy or cheesy, as the
gardener terms it, but short and well decayed, and
must be shaken thoroughly so that it mixes well
with the soil. If you haven’t any sod and cannot
procure any, use the excavated soil. When tre-
filling keep the dark or top soil to the bottom of
the hole. Mix the manure with this soil and
when completed give a thorough soaking with
water. ‘Then in the centre of each hill place the
melon frame and keep the sash on for several days
towarm the soil thoroughly before the seed is sown.
SOME growers sow the seeds in a greenhouse
or hotbed and transfer them to the melon
frames when large enough. I do not follow that
method because I believe that by planting in pots
for subsequent transplating the direct growth of
the seedling root is hampered and leads to the
production of numerous roots at the surface.
By sowing in permanent quarters this seedling
root penetrates down deep in the earth where
drought is not so apt to bother it to any extent,
making later watering unnecessary and so re-
lieving one of the worst of the melon enemies.
The melon does not take kindly to watering. I
sow seed about the middle of April; the weather,
however, is of far more importance than the cal-
endar. Sow about ten seeds to each hill and when
Gathering the crop!
V7
It is important to disturb the vine as little as possible.
Muskmelons Really Worth Eating w.c mecoutom
The Editor has Tasted Mr. McCollom’s Productions
and Can Vouch for the Results of His Method of Cultivation
the third leaf appears, reduce the plants to five.
Three plants to each hill is sufficient; the other
two can be pulled out when we are certain the
plants are established.
Until the seeds show signs of life we need not
attend to ventilation; but after the seeds have
germinated ventilating must be attended to
regularly, opening the frames very slightly at first,
and gradually increasing as the warm weather
approaches, until around the end of May we can
remove the sash entirely. Common sense must
rule. The plants must not be stunted by too
much ventilation, neither must they be allowed
to become thin and drawn by not enough. The
grower must perforce use his own judgment for
no hard-and-fast rule can be made.
When the time arrives for the sash to be re-
moved the plants should fill the frames, and will
start to run as soon as the sash are removed. And
how they will grow if they have been treated
properly in the beginning! At this time the lead-
ers should-be evenly spaced and held in place by
a small peg or a twig bent V shape and inverted,
the ends being pressed into the ground
on either side of the stem. Do not bruise
the vine and do not have the pegs so long that the
vines cannot pull them out as they grow.
Very little attention is required from this stage
until the ripening period—just look over the vines
carefully for blight or rust, spraying at the first
indication of trouble. Also pick off and burn all
affected parts. If the garden is subject to rust
spray anyhow, for a preventive using either bor-
deaux or copper carbonate. Avoid watering so
far as possible, but if you must water, don’t wet the
foliage but let the hose run gently right on the hill,
first laying down a cabbage leaf to prevent mak-
ing a hole and exposing the roots. Do this in the
evening or early morning, preferably the latter.
BOUT the time the melons are full-grown,
but before they begin to ripen, place a small
board under each fruit to help even ripening.
And now the gathering! I pick my melons
when they are almost ready to leave the vines, not
waiting for them to fall off, as I find that when
they are allowed to leave the vine naturally one
end is a little over-ripe. Pick when the melon is
still firm, and place them in a hot greenhouse or
some such place for a few hours where they will
ripen evenly, and completely. They can then be
placed oniceoronacellarfloor. Don’t haveamelon
cut open and filled with cracked ice hours before
serving. Good melons are not hard to grow.
Y pe ee Oe, perme
eee D keet
Therefore don’t walk about more than necessary
Adventures Among the Sedums tice raTHBoNE
Quite Exciting and Exhilarating Did the Chase for New Acquaintances Become as One by One the Different Stonecrops were
As a cut flower the old Sedum spectabile can readily be used
quite effectively
HE word “adventures” is used advisedly in
this title, because it presupposes a going
forth toward the unknown, the unexpected,
and such has been the trend of a series of
happy Sedum adventures in my garden.
But it was with no sense of adventure that I
set out, in a most absurdly haphazard way, along
the Sedum path that was to prove so pleasant.
I did not even know, at the moment, that I was
on the way when, quite unwittingly, I accepted
a friend’s sharing of a potted plant, unknown by
name to either of us.
It was a case of love at first sight for the name-
less succulent plant, with its old-pink flower
clusters, and round glaucous leaves set, like eye-
glasses, in a delicate frame of red;—long after-
ward recognized as S. Sieboldii, the beauty of the
family, as far as I know, outside the mossy Sed-
ums. While awaiting introduction to this first
stranger plant, Sedum acre was gathered in,
quite literally from the highway—just a bit from
a colony founded upon a rock, in true Stonecrop
fashion. Needless to say, to all who are familiar
with this active little Sedum, that, as its advent
in my garden occurred some years ago, my supply
is now considerably more than ample! Then a
few years went by before a passing glimpse of
Sedum spectabile, at a Newport gateway on the
ocean drive, made such a strong impression on
my uneducated Sedum eye, that it sent me to the
catalogues where, happily, I found its portrait,
and identification as well, of S. Sieboldii and S.
acre. At last the clue was found, and the de-
light of collecting began, as I at once reached out
As a tufted edge along the walk the pungent Sedum acre, which stands any kind of
rough usage
- ance along more individual lines.
Found in Old or New Gardens
hungrily, like poor half-starved Oliver, for “more,”
from the plantsmen’s somewhat meagre lists.
The rapidly increasing interest in rock-garden-
ing in America makes our lengthened Sedum
lists—since I began to choose therefrom—“‘‘sig-
nificant of much,’ to borrow a pet Carlylean
phrase. But the conditions that made my
small collection of Sedums one of slow growth
were fortunate I think. Instead of crowding at
a large reception they came as guests by ones
and twos, thus giving opportunity for acquaint-
And, as in
house furnishings, the pleasure of gradually
adding one treasure after another by means of
“the fine art of picking up” is greater than
having the doings all over with at
once; so is the pleasure of fur-
nishing a garden with Sedums
greater for being a leisurely affair
of gradual assembling, in this fresh
field of out-of-door delight.
Y GARDEN was fairly well
prepared to receive the Se-
dums as they arrived, some of
the edgings providing the stony
surroundings they enjoy and beau-
tify so greatly. For Stonecrops
certainly have very pretty ways
with the stones of their affinity,
some taking possession of crevices
and pockets between rocks, others
throwing over them their tapes-
tries of red-stemmed, dark green
or rich red, foliage, abloom with
white, yellow or the peculiar soft,
dull pink so largely affected by the Sedums. S.
stoloniferum is an excellent decorative worker
along this line, and serves a practical use as well
in building the miniature wall together with its
weavings. Similar results follow the efforts of
another mural artist of the rosette type—the
yellow-flowered S. kamtschaticum.
For use as carpet bedding our favorite S.
Sieboldii is considered very good. Mr. Wilhelm
Miller calls this “the best foliage plant in the
genus Sedum” and then goes on to say ‘The
only rival of Siebold’s stonecrop is S. Ewersi,
which some people think is a trifle bluer even than
Sieboldii. I shall never forget the pretty effect
this made at Gravetye, where Mr. Robinson
used it for edging rose beds. Both of
these species will bloom from Sep-
tember until hard frost. The
flowers of Ewersi are pinkish, but
those of the variety Turkestani-
cum are a deep violet.”
The mossy Sedums—what a
charming group they make!—are
of those that like a place close
among stones, where they can set-
tle down contentedly for life. And
in view of their close-to-the-earth
tendencies, it is rather amusing to
discover that the derivation of
their family name is from the verb
what most of the Sedums do, just
seat themselves comfortably down
for a long stay.
hat more natural therefore,
than that upon their coat-of-arms
there should be blazoned a garden.
seat—vert—with a sprig of Live-
forever rampant, as its crest, and
for motto the ancestral term ‘‘Se-
dere.” One of these sitters in the
sun, S. Stahlii, is of a sweet inno-
cent beauty akin to that of the fas-
cinating Pyxie, or flowering moss
—Pyxidanthera barbulata. S.
118
sedere, to sit, for that is so exactly ,
Stahlu, too, has the look of flowering moss—
moss with a touch of red in it, over which lie the
sprays of tiny white flowers—very numerous,
closely set, and lace-like. Real Pyxie lace per-
haps, worn when those fairy-folk come up at
night from their underground homes, to disport
themselves in the garden.
THE loveliest Sedum known to me, S. Lydium
glaucum, is a pretty contrast to the one
just named. It, also, is of moss-like growth, but
whereas, in trying to match Stahlii’s richly red-
hued, dark green foliage, one would search the
heart of a wood, it would be in the lichens on an
old stone wall that Lydium glaucum’s coloring
It was Siebold’s Sedum, the beauty of the family, that first attracted with its bold
succulent leaves
would be found. This is one of the glaucous
things that it is such a joy to find on the palette,
when on garden picture-making bent. Better
perhaps, the restraint of blue-green or gray
foliage for distinctive effect sometimes, than the
sole use of brilliant flowers, the quiet values
carrying further, in an artistic way.
Moreover there is the merit of greater per-
manancy. The bright flowers pass, while Sedum
foliage, keeping a pretty evenly good and fit, if
not in any way spectacular, appearance the season
through—the year around indeed, some of them—
does but increase its helpfulness in harmonious
color tuning, with the summer’s growth.
Of a moss-like character, too is S. hispanicum,
a new comer in my garden. The appropriate
spot for placing it seemed to be near the Rock
of Gibraltar, as the largest sheer-faced rock in
the edgings is named, and there it now is happily
ensconced—taking very kindly to the best we
could offer as a Spanish-like location.
S. Album, less delicate in its mossy make-up,
its white flowers lovely against its dark-green
background of thick foliage, stands high in the
gardener’s esteem among low-growing Sedums,
even if it does creep very rapidly along its way
with the evident—somewhat dismaying—inten-
tion of taking possession of the earth. But then so
is S. acre given that way to an almost exasperat-
ing extent, yet his amazing activities may be
turned to very good account in garden values,
and this, naturally, at short notice.
A case in point was won by this irrepressible
little Sedum, when its tufts were used to fill
bare intervals in an edging where perennial Pinks
alternating with Parrots’ Tulips, were winter-
killed. The following year,’ a row of soft green
cushions, embroidered, in June, with innumer-
able little golden stars, hid the forlorn, bare
intervals completely. This work, so promtly
and beautifully accomplished by our industrious
S. acre, exemplifies his genius for colonization,
which his roving habits favor. Wherever he
stops by the way, carried by some chance agency
_ of wind or garden tool, there a colony is founded.
le i te
APRIL,
OES
LTHOUGH the extreme contrast of exuberant
Sedum life is ever before me, I sometimes
fancy that, as Queen Eleanor’s crosses were
commemorative stations of her resting places,
on that last sad journey down from Lincolnshire
to London, so are Sedum acres colonies commem-
orative stations of the progress from one end of
the garden to the other, of this little plant that
strikes the note of life so persistently.
Strangely enough this symbol of life appears
to have a predilection for cemeteries, seeming
there as elsewhere, however, ever-young and
ever-lasting.
I often wish, indeed, that S. acre were an
annual, with the enforced restraint of annual
growth.
Especially in midsummer when it is natural
for it to lose its browned stems and flowers, is
its perennial nature discouraging. For then the
A peep into a closely settled Sedum community where the various species flourish
in a harmonious tangle
gardener running her fingers through the spent
growth, pulls out relentlessly—feeling like a
termagant the while—the Sedum’s faded locks,
and stirs up an acrid odor, in so doing, that
affects the throat unpleasantly for a time, re-
minding her very strongly that its common name
is Wall-pepper. But after all said and done, S.
acre is a lovable little thing—a favorite with a sur-
prising numberof amateur gardeners in our village.
The neighborhood children, too, are delighted to
plant it in their gardens, where it is called by a
new name of their invention—The Star-flower.
It was on the last day of February that I
made the first tour around my garden, after our
extraordinarily severe winter of a year ago, and
the most hope-inspiring sight I saw, was patches
of S. acre, here and there, still partly covered with
ice to be sure, but already far and away ahead of
the grass in this early greening. I also resign-
edly noted the beginnings of numerous S.
acre colonies that had wintered, very well indeed,
on the drive!
No such prankish ways as little Sedum acre’s
belong to its taller, upright-growing relatives.
S. spectabile holds erect its height of eighteen
inches, and dignifies the border by its presence—
the large umbels of pink or crimson bloom most
welcome as the garden season wanes. Used as
a cut-flower for the house, its flat-topped heads
and sturdy stalks and leaves proved rather un-
expectedly attractive, in an odd sort of way,
both as to form and color and its lasting quality
in water was (Sedum-like) remarkable.
Of similar habit is the Ghost, so called because,
when it came from a far Western garden to my
own, it was as white as a piece of ivory, root and
all, except for a hint of green in the leaves. How-
ever, with more complete development, the spec-
tral aspect vanished and it can now respond quite
properly, I think, to the more definite name of
S. japonicum macrophyllum.
I’ A tramp may be called an escape from
_ civilization, then S. telephium, the common
Liveforever, is the tramp of the Sedum family—
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
119
since it is now an escape from the garden to the
wild. But it is a beloved vagabond whom, for
old times’ sake, one would gladly reinstate within
garden bounds, if only space permitted. For
its leaves furnish material for the green bags
such as little Polly makes in one of Mrs. Mary
Mapes Dodge’s “Rhymes and Jingles.”
“Little Polly, always clever—
Takes a leaf of Liveforever
Before you know it,
You see her blow it,
A gossamer sack
With a velvet back.”
Grown-up, even elderly, Pollys also do this
deed, unto this day, if the truth were told. Not
long ago a group of cousins on ancestral quest
intent, met in an old graveyard where Liveforever
abounds. Each made, right then and there,
“4 gossamer-sack with a velvet back,” doing
the childish act just as, quite
possibly, it was done in their
own day and generation by those
over whom the Liveforever has
long been growing.
I wish it were as easy to offer
hospitality to a Sedum ransacked
from memories of my childhood’s
garden when a belated Sedum
consciousness at last dawned upon
me, as it would be to find the
Sedum tramp and ask himin. My
lost Sedum, rather common in our
gardens many years ago, was.
known to us as Crowfoot, and the
term well expressed the form of
its Sedum-pink infloresence. The
foliage was feathery along a stem
five or six inches high if | remem-
ber aright, all very soft and pretty,
but someway it was not regarded
as highly as 1t would be now, when
I find myself watching for its reappearance in
some one of the Sedums new to me, having
Crowfoot characteristics, as they are chosen for
my nowadays garden.
One thing new for this year is to be the
annual form of Sedum caeruleum, sown as
in experiment, among Crocuses newly set last
fall. This delicate, low-growing plant having
all the Sedum characteristics except longevity,
lived its one summer in a friend’s garden, from
whence a sprig came to me, to live on and on,
for a few weeks, in a vase of water. Its tiny
flowers changed from blue to pinkish purple
before it finally gave up trying to prove itself
an “Everlasting Livelong,” but it held its charm
to the last. That peculiar charm so many feel,
compellingly, with Sedums in
general.
N& for all however, quite
naturally, does this charm
exist. The extent of the differ-
ence of appeal is notable when
Mr. Eden Philpotts, in his de-
lightful “‘My Garden’’ book
frankly states. ‘Other succu-
lents interest me far more than
2 Sedums, Sempervivums,
Cotyledons, Echeverias.”
Happily on further reading, a
few Sedum notes appear which
seem to modify, in some measure,
the severity of that anti-Sedum
declaration—notes, between the
lines of which one reads a pretty
fair degree of interest in those
particular members of the Sedum
tribe alluded to as follows: ‘““My
favorites, if I have any, are S.
pulchellum, an old and rare beauty
with pink flowers and lovely foli-
age; kamtschaticum; Midden-
dorf’s and Stahlii. The last has
yellow flowers, and I doubt its
hardiness, but each leaf will make
a plant. . . . The huge Sedum spectabile is
brown with honey bees in late autumn.”
In two instances, these welcome notes are
Our Rock of Gibraltar with the Spanish Sedum hispanicum
standing guard
serving me as letters of introduction to hitherto
unheard-of Sedums. One, ‘‘Middendorf’s,”
discovered this spring in an American plants-
man’s catalogue, will come to my garden as
soon as weather permits. For the other the
engaging pulchellum, I am on the watch,
with considerable hope, as it is native to our
Southern states, of finding it before long in
the lists—those enticing lists, where, doubtless
many other good things will appear, from time
to time, to add to the apparently limitless,
yet ever-fresh interest of my little collection
of Sedums.
“Hills of Snow” as a Winter Bouquet
F MY many shrubs, about the most satis-
factory is the “ Hills of Snow” variety of
Hydrangea. I have it planted on theeast
side of the house just in frontof a hedge of
climbing Roses (Crimson Rambler, Dorothy Per-
kins, and Excelsa) which screens the back yard from
the street. They are all in bloom at the same time
and the effect is very pleasing. A combination
bouquet of the Rose clusters, Hydrangea, and the
airy Gypsophila paniculata (commonly known
as Angel’s-breath or Baby’s-breath) is beautiful.
When the Hydrangea blossoms first open they
are of a pale green cast, changing to white when
in full bloom, then again reverting to the first
shade—light green, and as they dry turn a light
brown. In late October a friend called my at-
tention to its possibilities as an “everlasting”
winter bouquet, an idea that was new to me
and may be to others. —Mary Rutner, Mich.
Massed and allowed to grow naturally the Sedums make effective landscape pictures, _
A showy Sedum (S. spectabile)
Technical Tips From a Professional Gardener
Mr. T. Sheward Continues His Illuminating Practical Sketches and Lucid Tabloid Talks on Two Important Current Activities
I. Kinds of Grafts
RAFTING is the art of taking a shoot
or “cion” from one tree and implant-
ing it on the stem or “‘stock” of an-
other. To be successful in this work
it is necessary to have the cambium or inner
bark of both stock and cion come in contact with
each other. Different forms of grafting are
given names that are descriptive of the method
employed as root, veneer, cleft, rind or bark.
Grafting serves many useful purposes, for instance
by top-grafting a worthless variety of apple or
pear with a new or improved variety, the tree can
be made over. It is necessary to use as a stock
a plant that is nearly related to the cion.
Root-grafting offers a quick method of increas-
ing nursery stock. Cleft-grafting is employed
when the stock is larger than the cion and is
used mostly in top-grafting large trees. In the
accompaning drawing, Fig. 1 shows a cleft-graft;
Fig. 2, a cion; Fig. 3, a knife used in cleft-grafting;
and Fig. 5, the method of opening the cleft for
the insertion of the cion.
Cions of apples, pears, and all fruit trees are
taken from the top of bearing trees using. the
wood of the previous year. These are taken
when pruning in the fall and are “‘heeled-in”
until needed. They should be cut about 6 inches
long and wedge shaped at the base to fit tightly
in the stock (Fig. 2).
To prepare an apple tree for top-grafting saw
off the branches and smooth off the rough surface
of the wound and the edges of the bark with a
sharp knife (Fig. 24) in order to make the wound
heal properly (Fig. 10). The next operation is
to place the grafting knife across the top of the
cut (Fig. 3) and split the wood with a blow of the
1
CLEFT GRAFTING
mallet, opening the cut with the end of the knife
(Fig. 5) and inserting two cions (Fig. 1), making
sure that the cambium layers in stock and cion
come in contact.
On a small stock (Fig. 31) a pruning knife can
be used and one cion inserted. When the cion
is in place tie around with rafha and cover with
grafting wax (Fig. 17).
Bark-grafting is another form of grafting suit-
able for top-grafting fruit trees. Slit the bark
down the length of the cut on the cion and push
the cion down between the bark and the wood
(Figs. 17, 18, and 11). Tie, and cover with
grafting wax.
Another form of bark-grafting (Fig. 23) is used
in repairing trees girdled by mice, gophers, etc.
A tree half girdled (Fig. 19) will grow together
without grafting, but a tree girdled all around
(Fig. 21) necessitates bridge-grafting to save the
tree. Fig. 20 shows the bark trimmed back and
ready for grafting, Fig. 23, how to cut the cions,
Fig. 22, how to insert the cions and Fig. 24, the
cions in place. These are covered with wax
bandages, and soon unite.
Whip-grafting is employed when the stock and
cion are small and is used chiefly in nursery work,
on ornamental shrubs like the Lilac, Rhododen-
dron, Holly, etc. (Fig. 32). Fig. 33 shows how to
cut stock and cion in root-grafting.
The saddle-graft (Fig 8.) is the most common
way of grafting over small shoots. Fig. 6 shows the
cion tied in place ready for waxing over and Figs.
12,13, 14, and 28, a small shrub grown in a pot and
grafted underglass. Inthelattercaseitisnotneces-
sary to coverwith wax but moss is sometimes used.
Fig. 28 shows a side-graft and Fig. 34 how to
cut stock and cion. Herbaceous grafting and in-
arching are in common use. °
re)
KNIFE USED IN
a» CLEF
23 Ze
CION |
FOR |
BRIDGE
GRAFTING)
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120
Inarching or approach-grafting is the process
of grafting the branch of one plant upon another
while both stock and cion are still growing upon
their own roots. Fig. 25 shows one way of cut-
ting stock and cion, Fig. 26 and 27 another way;
both stock and cion having a tongue cut to hold
them in place and Fig. 30, stock and cion tied
with rafha. Both ways are equally successful
and like all other forms of grafting, depend upon
the close union of the cambial tissues between
the stock and cion.
Herbaceous grafting is another method of
grafting in which both stock and cion are soft
growing parts of plants. Geraniums, Coleus, and
many kinds of soft-wooded plants graft easily un-
der glass if the parts are cut with a sharp knife and
tied together. Geraniums graft upon Pelar-
goniums, Potatoes upon Tomatoes, etc. Parts
of fruits will grow together, also leaves. Fig.
32 shows the method of side-grafting a Geranium.
No wax is necessary when the work is done un-
der glass.
Il. Transplanting Seedlings
EEDLINGS started in a greenhouse or
hotbed in February will be ready for
transplanting this month. Transplant
them into other boxes or directly on the
hotbed. If boxes are used make them about
three inches deep and put holes in the bottom for
drainage. Place “crocks” over the holes to-
gether with the siftings from the soil to be used.
Pass the soil through a quarter-inch sieve before
filling the boxes.
The soil for filling the boxes must be of the
same temperature as that of the frames for if cold
soil is used it will check the growth of the tender
a 33 ROOT
GRAFTING
| HERBACEOUS |
F GRAFTING
APRIL, 1919
We
| iS
Ci
sat
eae
seedlings, and perhaps even kill them. The best
plan is to fill the boxes (pressing the soil firmly
and leveling with a piece of board), and place
them in the hotbed for a day or two to warm
up.
In watering the seedlings use water the same
temperature as that of the hotbed. Do the
watering early in the morning or after three
o'clock in the afternoon. If it should be neces-
sary to water any of the seedlings in the middle
of the day on account of wilting, shade the frame
by laying sacking on top of the glass. Do not
transplant the seedlings when the soil is very dry;
nor leave them in the sun after transplanting.
Watering the boxes a day before using them
will put the soil into ideal condition for receiving
the seedlings, and the drainage will be settled.
The kind of soil to be used will depend upon the
kind of plant to be transplanted. Garden soil
(if not too rich or full of weed seeds) can be used
but a plain loam is to be preferred. A rather
poor soil is generally better than rich soil for the
first transplanting, although some strong feeders
do best in very rich soil. A rich soil is likely to
cause “‘damping off” especially if allowed to get
too wet.
A good mixture for general use is two thirds
loam, one third leaf mold, one eighth silver sand.
In a soil composed of old rotted manure, well
broken up and sifted, celery and Lobelia would
grow rapidly, and tomatoes would make a strong
growth but would not be desirable for trans-
planting. Tomato plants grown in a plain loam
are stronger and more compact. faullones
would very likely damp off in rich soil when
«
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
121
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small but sometimes may be taken safely through
that stage (Fig. 30). .
To lift the seedlings from the boxes use a small,
sharply pointed stick (Figs. 13, 14, 15, 16); likewise,
when raising a bunch of seedlings (Fig. 4). A
wooden peg comes in handy when transplanting
(Fig. 12). It is not always the largest seedlings
(Fig. 2 A) which make the best plants for trans-
planting (Fig. 2 B). A pan of tomato seedlings
ready for first transplanting is shown in Fig. 1.
Tomato seedlings should be one and one half
inches apart in the first transplanting (Figs. 5 and
6). In the second transplanting place the seed-
lings three inches apart (Figs. 8, 9). “Tomato
seedlings may be put in three-inch pots (Fig. 10).
One great advantage when transplanting from
pots is that the plants may be set outside and will
not be checked even in dry weather (Fig. 11).
Some English gardeners sow three seeds in a
three-inch pot, retaining only the strongest (Figs.
17, 18, 19).
Celery seedlings ready for transplanting (Fig.
20). Transplant the celery after two rough
leaves have formed past the seed leaf (Fig. 21).
Lift the seedlings very carefully from the box
(Fig. 26) and place one inch apart in the first
transplanting (Fig. 22), and two and one half
inches apart in the second (Figs. 23, 25). Ina
short time they will be ready for transplanting
outside (Fig. 24).
Cauliflower seedlings ready for first transplant-
ing (Fig. 27); a good seedling (Fig. 28). ‘Trans-
plant one inch apart (Fig. 29). Cauliflower
damps off very easily and must be grown as cool
as possible. An early cauliflower ready for trans-
planting outside (Fig. 30) either in a shelter or in
the open. Early cauliflower can be transplanted
from pots without checking (Fig. 31); and will
not need watering if the weather is dry. A plant
from a pot (Fig. 32) and from a box (Fig. 30).
Late cauliflower, celery, tomatoes, cabbage, etc.,
can be potted up to follow early crops of peas,
etc.
Make the hole for inserting the plant (Fig.
33) with the planting peg (Fig. 34); press the soil
firmly around the base of the plant with the blunt
end of the peg (Fig. 35), and withdraw the peg
leaving a depression to be filled up with water
(Fig. 36). Reverse the peg and repeat the pro-
cess (Fig. 37). This work can be done very
quickly by experienced gardeners; some trans-
planting as many as three or four thousand in a
single day.
Sometimes a box of seedlings will begin to damp
off before large enough to handle. If this hap-
pens sprinkle a little sand over the surface; but if
the damping off does not stop transplant in
bunches (Figs. 28, 29) and transplant again separ-
ately when large enough to handle. This is a
good way for growing Lobelia and other very
small seeds.
In order to protect the seedlings lay planks on
the edge of the box; and on cold nights lay strips
of wood over the top, covering with sacking (Fig.
40). Most flower seedlings are transplanted
in boxes (Figs. 22, 23).
A dull day is the best for transplanting seedlings
in the open; if planted under glass, water them as
soon as they are set, and shade from sun till growth
has started.
\
Fruits Just for Fun mc. xaws
Plant raspberries along the fence and harvest a valuable crop
from a usually wasted strip
HE fear that there will be years of wait-
ing before they can gather any products,
that the plants will take up too much
space and use up so much plant food
that other plants will be either shaded unduly or
robbed and starved, that pruning is an occult
ceremony which only those devotees who have
reached the inner shrine may practise, and finally
that the fruit plants are so badly affected by in-
sects and diseases that there is little or no hope of
making them live are the principle reasons why
people with small gardens hesitate to plant fruit.
What a pity that one or other of these errors
should prevent any one from enjoying far better
fruit than can be bought in the stores!
OW about these actual facts? Mr. W. H.
Stewart of Setauket, Long Island, has a
Wealthy apple tree in very sandy soil which in
its third year set and matured fourteen apples, as
luscious as beautiful. The tree was then less than
six feet tall and had a spread of only about as
much. As this variety is noted for its habit of
bearing every year the tree will probably have
two or three times as many fruits next fall as it
had last. For trees that once start to bear tend
to continue to do so unless they are prevented
by improper pruning which is probably the most
frequent cause of slow development to the fruit-
bearing habit.
In my own back yard I planted sixteen two-
year grape vines in the fall of 1916. Three were
stepped upon by the postman coming in the back
way and killed. These were replaced in the
spring of 1918. Of the thirteen originals, eight
bore fruit in 1918, only twenty-two months from
the time they were planted. ‘Truly, most of them
bore only a few clusters but two yielded about
six pounds each of far more delicious fruit than
I can buy in the stores, because the varieties are
superior to the market kinds.
The same sort of success attended my planting
of currants, gooseberries, and raspberries. With
blackberries I was unfortunate on my own place
but I have had fruit in fair quantity the second
season from planting and in a few cases some even
the same year, when “‘transplanted plants,” as
the nurserymen call them, were planted. The
blackberries I planted last spring are expected to
bear fairly well this summer, and I look for an
average of at least ten pounds of grapes from each
of the older vines and a fair showing from the
young ones. My currant bushes should bear an
average of four or five pounds each and the goose-
berries as much or more.
These results have been produced under the
very serious disadvantage of exceedingly poor
soil—merely the earth thrown out of the cellar
and spread over the surface of a slope by the man
who built the house. To offset this, however, I
placed some good soil in each hole and buried
around each one a half pail of unbroken bones,
collected from the house waste of my own and the
neighbors’ places.
I planted Superb and Progressive strawberries
(everbearing varieties) in the spring of 19r7 and
from July to October that season gathered a fair
return of fruit in spite of the poorness of the soil,
lack of irrigation, and-only moderate fertilization
with wood ashes from the fireplace and part of
the manure from a flock of about eighteen hens.
As I planned to make a road to my garage across
this strawberry patch no care whatever was given
the plants during 1918, and yet the Progressive
plants heaped coals of fire on my head in a way
Orchard fruit may easily be set in the ground that is at present given to annual vegetables. Soa crop is gathered while the perma-
nent trees are developing
122
Here’s a Really Rare Sport for the Amateur Gardener—Planted Around the Vegetable Plot, Occupying No
Extra Space and Fruits Yield Returns That Far Outstrip Anything Else in Actual Value, for the Household
that has made me ashamed of my neglect, yielding
well in June and fairly well during July and
August. I shall transplant, from that bed to
better quarters and expect to have fruit from
July to Thanksgiving Day at least, if the season
1s as open as it was in 1918. The Superb variety
could not stand the treatment I gave and died
out. Besides these long-season varieties there
were some ordinary kinds in the spring of 1918—
Premier, Dr. Burrill, Ekey, Chesapeake, and Osem.
They were too young to bear last summer but will
do well next June. So much for the first theory.
OW about fruit plants taking up too much
space? Raspberries and WES gorraiss may
be placed against the borders of the property—
the fences. They will not only be out of the way
there but will gather part of their food from the
neighbor's yard!
Among the blackberries, at suitable intervals
place a fruit tree, skipping a berry plant to allow
the tree to have a chance. If the area is very
small, as in my case—only fifty by sixty feet—use
dwarftrees. These are satisfactory as far as they
go. They give a fair yield of fruit and if good varie-
ties are chosen they furnish flavors, odors, and
gustatory sensations not buyable at the stores.
In order to save space and also to provide par-
tial shade for my currants and gooseberries I
have planted my grape vines alternately with
these bushes in two lines bordering the walk from
the back door to the poultry yard at the back of
the property. The vines are being trained so
their trunks will be erect between the bushes and
their arms or main branches will extend along
horizontal wires, only one of which is as yet in
position, but which will consist of three. The
one already in place is about five feet from the
ground and passes through a small augur hole in
each post, fastened tightly at one end but wound
around a square piece of wood at the other so it
may be loosened in winter and tightened in sum-
mer. The other two wires will be placed at the
ends of a T cross piece six or eight inches higher
up. When the vines grow each summer from the
third season forward the shoots will extend from
the lower and centre wire over the upper and
outer ones thus forming a canopy over the goose-
berry and currant bushes.
Besides the rows of plants I have already men-
tioned I have four others in this yard of only
fifty by sixty feet; namely, one of raspberries
alone, one of red raspberries and dwarf trees, one
of black raspberries and dwarf trees, one of cur-
rants with trees—a quince, a peach, a plum, and
a dwarf pear. Between the outside row on one
side and the next one is a twelve-foot space for
the garage road. On the other side is a garden bed
about ten feet wide. Then come the two rows
of grapes, the space between being eight feet. On
the other side of the grape rows from the garden
bed is a bed of strawberries ten feet wide, down
the middle of which is one of the rows of dwarf
trees and raspberries.
T° BE sure this is close planting, but, were
the soil at all suitable for gardening it would
have also produced a considerable variety of veg-
etables last season. As it is I am improving it by
_ the addition of leaf mold, vegetable tops, wood
ashes, and poultry manure. I have an asparagus
bed about ten by twenty-five feet which will give
us some dishes next season and still more from
that time forward. By incorporating similar
material in the present strawberry bed I will make
this area as good as the other in two or three years.
With ordinary soil and with Jiberal feeding there
is no reason why fruits and vegetables should not
be produced in liberal supply from areas no larger
than mine. But even if not, I would far prefer
to have the fruit because it is impossible to buy
APRIL, 1919
as good asI can grow. Vegetables are less dif-
ficult to buy so I would limit my planting to those
“kinds hardest to get in the stores—salads, really
ripe tomatoes, peas, lima beans, sweet corn, aspar-
agus, and the early spring vegetables that will
grow anywhere and that are not affected by the
slight shade cast by the trees up to the end of May
or early June.
THE next erroneous theory is just as easy
to demolish. Pruning is not mysterious,
but a simple process which any one may learn and
apply with satisfactory results. In fact, about
its most important principle is to avoid cutting
as much as possible! You see, each plant knows
its aspirations far better than does any mere hu-
man being so the main thing to look out for in the
training and pruning is simply to advise the plant
not to do so-and-so because if it does trouble will
follow. In order to do this intelligently the habit
of the plant must be the guide. This may be
learned by personal observation and from books.
Knowledge of the way a plant bears its blossom
buds is a fundamental in pruning. This can best
be learned from the plants themselves. (Also
read THe GarpEen Macazin™ for March, 1918.)
LASILY we have the pest-control bogey.
Like all other apparitions it is not to be
feared; for when once understood it-is simple.
The pests that cannot be controlled in the home
garden are surprisingly few, far fewer than the
commercial fruit grower can and does: keep in
check. This is because the home gardener can
afford to practise methods that the commercial
fruit grower would find too costly. The only
uncontrollable diseases that occur to me are: yel-
lows, little peach, big peach of peach trees; orange
rust of raspberries and blackberries; and rosette.
Digging up and burning affected plants is the
only remedy. New trees may be put in where
the old ones are taken out.
To be sure trees, shrubs, and vines may be
killed by any of several diseases or insect pests
but that is almost invariably the fault of the grower.
For instance, fire blight killed more than half the
pear trees in the garden of my boyhood. It was
not understood in those days. For its nature and
method of treatment are known and trees are
saved even on a commercial scale. So of black
knot which killed all the plum and sour cherry
trees in all the orchards of my boyhood. Even
the San José scale which killed tens of thousands
of trees and is continuing to do so where unfought,
is easily controlled by spraying with proper materi-
als at seasonable times. In short, there is little, al-
most nothing, to fear from either disease or insects.
To carry on a successful fight against plant
pests it is not necessary to have a university edu-
cation, to be a trained economic entomologist oran
’ erudite phytopathologist. In all cases of course it
is necessary to know the kind of foe and the char-
acter of attack to make. This simmers down to
personal observation supplemented by reading.
ProEs are readily classified first into diseases
and insects. Next the diseases are of a
physiological, a bacterial, or a fungous nature.
If the first, the remedy usually lies in rectifying
the culture; if the second, in cutting off and burn-
ing the affected parts; and if the third, in spraying
as a preventive. The insects are as simply
grouped into chewers and suckers. Among the
chewers are borers and miners which work wholly
beneath the surface and can usually be controlled
individually. Most of the chewers, however,
may be destroyed readily by poisons placed upon
the plants ready for their. attacks. For the suck-
ers poisons are useless; contact insecticides that
burn their skins, or fill their breathing pores with
dust or oil are needed. Here in one short para-
graph are the fundamentals of plant-pest control.
Any one may master and apply them.
A few instances in proof: A neighbor lost all
the leaves from her currant bushes last spring be-
cause she did no spraying. Another used bor-
tained the foliage until late fall.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
deaux mixture which is a fungicide, applicable and
effective for plant diseases (not for insects). She
also lost the leaves of her currant foliage just as
if she had used nothing at all. Still another neigh-
bor used arsenate of lead only once, but he re-
In each case
the pest was the same—the currant worm, a
chewing pest. Casual observation showed the
last person that the leaves were being chewed up.
So he used a poison! Simple as A. B. C!
Two other neighbors planted pear trees; one
sprayed with “all sorts of things, but the trees
died in spite of him” as his wife remarked; the
other cut off the diseased parts and disinfected
the wounds with corrosive sublimate and he has
plenty of pears every year.
(CHOICE of varieties is perhaps the most im-
portant thing in success in home fruit grow-
ing. Where area is not too seriously limited var-
ieties should be chosen to give the longest possible
succession. Few people seem to realize that by
proper selection of kinds they may have straw-
berries from July to November; raspberries from
July to October or November; gooseberries, cur-
rants, and cherries from late June to early August;
mulberries from June to September; plums and
peaches from late July to late October, November
and in some cases even until Christmas; pears
from late July or early August until March;
- grapes from late August till February, March and
even April; and apples from late July to late May
or early June—thus making a complete annual
cycle of fruit from strawberries through all the
other fruits to strawberries again.
In making up a list the house gardener will
give preference to the highest quality and the
softest textured kinds. Only where space is
abundant is it justifiable to plant culinary var-
ieties for home use. Another point where space
is at a premium is to select those fruits that ripen
when the stores have none to offer or when prices
are so high as to be prohibitive. In these ways
the home table may not only have fruit choicer
than can be bought but it may be had when there
is no market supply to draw upon. For instance,
there are always plenty of Bartlett pears but few
later than that. Yet there are far superior kinds
that reach their best during October, November,
December, and later. Again, grapes are abundant
during September and early October, but these
are mostly Concord which at best is but a jelly
The insect and disease bugaboo is not so terrible as it seems.
Ordinary cleanliness, and reasonable spraying will control
grape, decidedly inferior to at least a score of other
varieties which are easily kept under ordinary
storage conditions until Thanksgiving, Christmas,
Valentine’s or even Easter Days. For details ask
the New York Experiment Station.
Success should attend each effort at planting
provided young and only moderate sized trees
are chosen. In this matter it is well to follow
the practice of commercial fruit growers. These
men are unanimously in favor of one year peach
trees, but are about equally divided as to choice
between one and two years fruit trees of other
kinds, also of grapes, currants, and gooseberries.
As to raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, and
dewberries one year or younger plants are pre-
ferred. It is a great mistake to use plants older
than these because so much root is unavoidably
destroyed in digging that the plants are slow to
recover. Almost invariably younger plants over-
take and outstrip larger ones of the same kinds
and handled equally well at and after planting.
The only exception to this statement is in the
case of trees root pruned during one, two, or more
years in the nursery before being dug. «This
practice is well recognized and popular in the
handling of evergreens and other ornamental
stock but not common with fruit plants.
Here is a comfortable, intimate, little corner of a garden that should please. Fruits, vegetables, and flowers in friendly
association
Making the Vegetable Garden Live Up To Plan
Some of the Problems in Obtaining What You Really Want Just When You Need It. Really a Matter of Taking a Little Forethought
HE best garden plan is merely a plan
so long as it remains on paper. The
real test of the gardener comes in trans-
ferring the garden from the plan to the
soil. That may seem to the beginner a very
simple process but the results of his first season’s
work will show him that there are a great many
opportunities for the proverbial “‘slip *twixt the
cup and the lip”—or, between the plan and the
planting.
The first problem which arises, of course, is
when to plant. The gardener may supply himself
with any number of dates from authoritative
sources for planting, but when all is said and done
planting dates are not satisfactory. You simply
cannot run a garden by the calendar. Specific
dates are, in the first place, too general. There
are so many local factors entering into the matter
that they do not hold even over limited areas.
They vary from season to season, and even in the
same locality and the same season vary with the
soil.
One of the most important things to con-
sider is drainage. Land that is thoroughly
drained can be planted from a few days to two
or three weeks earlier than land that remains wet
and soggy after the spring rains. Another im-
portant point is the amount of shelter from north
and northwest winds which the “garden may en-
joy. This in itsélf may make a difference of a
week or so in the time when it is best to plant.
When to Plant
‘THE plants and seeds required to make a
complete garden may be considered in four
groups. Extra Hardy, Hardy, Tender, and Very
Tender.
The Extra Harpy GrouP includes onion sets,
horseradish and rhubarb roots, smooth peas,
sweet peas, kohlrabi, radish, spinach, and turnip.
All of these may be planted or sown just as early
as the ground can be got ready for them—that
is, as soon as it 1s dried out enough to be forked
up and raked without remaining sticky and
lumpy.
The Harpy Group includes seeds of beets; car-
rots; celery (to be transplanted later); chard; let-
tuce; onion seed; smooth peas; mustard; salsify,
parsley; parsnips and potatoes. Also plants (if
thoroughly hardened off) of cabbage, lettuce,
beets, onions, kohlrabi, swiss chard, and (pre-
ferably a few days later) cauliflower. These
should be planted about a week later than the
first group, when freezing is over and the peach,
pear, and wild shad are coming into bloom.
The TENDER GROUP includes beans; sweet corn;
cucumbers; okra; melons; pumpkins and squash.
These should not be planted until ‘danger of hard
frosts is practically over; usually some three
weeks after the hardy group, or when apple trees
arein bloom. For the small garden it will usually
be worth while to take a chance on an extra early
planting of beans and corn as the cost of each
planting is not great compared to the advantages
obtained if the crop happens to come through
all right.
The Very TENDER GROUP includes lima beans;
tomato, pepper, and eggplant plants. These
should not be put out until all danger of late
frost is past. Unlike the vegetables in the pre-
ceding group it does not pay to take a chance
with these as, even if they live, the growth until
warm weather arrives will be very unsatisfactory,
and the plants once dwarfed or stunted by un-
seasonable weather will not recover. I have
frequently seen lima beans, eggplants and even
tomatoes which outgrew and matured earlier than
plants of the same varieties which had been sown
or set out ten days or more earlier.
It is taken for granted that the gardener will
use every care to properly prepare and fertilize
the soil. A word may be said, however, in regard
to the great advantage of preparing the soil early
—of spading up and raking over the whole garden
area as soon as the ground is fit to work. In this
way the surface of the soil is warmed up and ger-
mination will be very much better than where
seeds are planted in the freshly turned-up soil.
Poor germination is very frequently due to the
fact that the ground is so wet and cold that the
seeds rot after sprouting, especially if there are a
few wet cold days just after planting. Danger
of loss from this source can be very greatly min-
imized by pre-sprouting such seeds as peas, beets,
celery, chard, beans, sweet corn, cucumber,
melons, and lima beans before planting. This
can be done easily by keeping the seeds in a warm
place partly covered with water for twenty-four
to forty-eight hours. They should be watched
carefully and planted as soon as germination
begins to show. For convenience for planting
they can be rolled in dry sifted soil, or in the case
of the larger seeds such as peas, beans and corn,
mixed in sifted leaf-mould or with humus. The
result of this treatment is that the germination
takes place at once on planting and the chances
of the seed rotting in the soil before having an
opportunity to grow are very greatly lessened.
ANOTHER precaution which may be taken
to help assure the success of extra early-
sown seeds is shallow planting. It is not the
depth of planting, but the conditions of moisture
and of warmth that determine germination.
Very early in the spring, when the ground is still
saturated with moisture, and has just begun to
warm up where it is exposed to the sun during
the day, the proper conditions for effecting quick
strong germination are found very near the sur-
face. Keep that fact in mind when making your
first plantings. Make the furrows or marks for
the seed shallower than usual; sow the seed
thicker, to allow for some loss; but firm what soil
is put on down around the seed thoroughly, un-
less you have a heavy clay soil that will tend to
pack itself. When the soil is merely scraped in
loosely over the seed, and the seed germinates,
a single bright windy day may dry the loose soil
to dust and kill the unprotected little germ before
it has a chance to strike roots down into the moist
soil below.
Don’t Delay Replanting
ig MAKES any gardener happy to see full, even
rows. It isn’t a question of looks alone, for
it is most discouraging and unprofitable business
to have to cultivate and hoe and weed gaps and
bare spots. And yet in nine out of ten gardens
you will find them.
I doubt if there is any one thing more neglected
in the average garden than replanting. If at first
you don’t succeed—seed, seed again! That’s
all there is to it; or at least that’s the main part
of it. It isn’t always the fault of the seed when
you don’t get a good stand. Most vegetable
seeds should be showing signs of coming up in ten
days to two weeks after sowing. Onions, celery,
parsley, and a few other slow starters may take
a few days longer than that, under adverse con-
ditions. But as soon as a few plants in the row
are plainly coming along, if a careful examination
does not give promise that the rest are on the way,
indicating a satisfactory “stand,” why then there
are only two things to do: either rip the row out
and plant it over again altogether; or go over it,
leaving the good spots, and plant again the parts
that failed to come the first time. The latter
method is usually more trouble, but it has these
advantages; the plants already started will ma-
ture more quickly than a new sowing, and the
double planting will prolong the bearing season
of the crop. Simply mark off a new row, as near
the first planting as you can get it, and sow again.
For most vegetables there 1s a distinct planting
124
season; so every day’s delay in replanting lessens
your chances of getting a good crop. There is
for instance little or no use in planting spinach,
or peas, or lettuce, in June.
To make sure of full rows and fully satisfactory
results, do your replanting early!
Timing Succession Plantings
TH purpose of succession plantings is, of
course, to maintain a constant supply of the
crop. That being the case, there is just one log-
ical basis on which to figure out when to make the
succession sowings; take the approximate number
of days any crop will remain in good condition for
table use, and with that as a time-unit, make a new
planting at the end of that period; a second when
it has elapsed again, etc. If, for instance, you
know that the kind of radishes you are planting
will have passed their prime in ten days after they
are ready for use; dwarf peas in two weeks; and
beans in three; then you would need to plant
radishes every ten days, peas every two weeks,
and beans every three weeks during the season
in which they should be planted—which, in the
case of the early dwarf beans, would be up to the
middle of August.
But it is possible to cut down the number of
succession crops required by planting succession
varteties—that is, two or three varieties of the
same vegetable, at the same time, which will
mature one after the other. In this way you can
have, for instance, good radishes for two weeks,
tender peas for three or four weeks, and prime
beans for four or five weeks, from a single plant-
ing.
The time during which crops of the various
vegetables may be counted on to remain in good
condition (of course dry weather, soil fertility,
and many other factors will cause variations), is
approximately as follows:
Beans, dwarf, three weeks; limas, six weeks; pole, eight weeks;
beets, three weeks; cabbage, early, three weeks; cauliflower, three
weeks; carrots, four weeks; celery, early, four weeks late, ten
weeks; chard, all season; sweet corn, early, two weeks, late three
weeks; cucumbers, six weeks; eggplant, until frost; lettuce, two
weeks; kohlrabi, ten days; peas, dwarf, two weeks, tall, three
weeks; radish; ten days; spinach, two weeks; squash, summer, four
weeks; tomatoes; early, six weeks, late, eight weeks, turnips; early
two weeks, late, four weeks.
One of the most important things in keeping
vegetables in good table condition, is to pick or
gather them ail as fast as they are ready, even if
they have to be given away. Leaving them to grow
and mature discourages further yield and tends
to kill the plant. This is especially true of beans,
peas, cucumbers, summer squash, and okra.
Planting for Special Purposes
O GARDEN is really wholly successful that
does not provide (at least in so far as the
space available will allow), for the winter as well
as for the summer table. But.the problem here
is quite the reverse of that of supplying the sum-
mer needs. Instead of wanting a continuous
crop, a small quantity at a time; we want the
whole crop at one given time, but just in the prime
of condition. Certainly seventy-five per cent.
of the vegetables ordinarily kept for winter are
far from first quality; and merely because they
are not ‘‘timed” right.
Vegetables for the home winter supply should
be considered in three distinct classes: first, for
storing for winter; second, for canning; and third,
for drying or dehydrating. The requirements
in each case are quite different.
The most important for storing are beets, car-
rots, turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, and salsify.
Now the truck farmer or market gardener grows
these things by the bushel, and to get a big yield,
he plants them early. And the garden books and
gardening articles, based on information gathered
from commercial garden practice, have for years
been saying “‘plant parsnips and salsify in April,
and beets and carrots for winter crops in May.”
APRIL, 1919
The consequence is that all are so old and tough
when taken out in the fall that they are not at all
palatable for the table, and are used, if at all, in
very limited quantities;—more than likely half
of them will be left in the cellar to be shoveled
out in the spring! Parsnips and salsify for win-
ter should not be planted until latter part of May;
Hardy Phlox
Throughgoing Americans are these perennial Phlox and lavish of their bloom with even indifferent attention.
O YOU realize that there are at least
six reasons why you should grow the
Hardy Phlox?
At the present time when so much
is being said about discarding things of German
origin here is a group of plants which need make
no apology on that score. They are all native-
born, unhyphenated Americans, for of all the
forty or so species commonly listed by botanists,
every one is found in the United States. It is
true that one species, Phlox sibirica, is found in
Siberia, but it is also found in Alaska, therefore
it may be called an American as well as a Siberian
species. It must be granted that some of our
garden varieties have German names attached
to them, but there are a great many more varie-
ties which have names of French origin, thanks to
the Lemoine nurseries which have disseminated -
so many varieties.
Another point in favor of the Phlox is the long
season of bloom. By careful selection of species
‘and varieties some representative of the Phlox
family may be had in bloom from spring until
late in the fall when the flowers are injured by
frost. Beginning with the forms of Phlox sub-
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
125
carrots in June, beets and rutabagas in late
June and turnips in July, if you want the kind
of roots that will taste “like more,” when they
come on to your vegetable-shy winter table.
_ The principal crops for canning are tomatoes,
corn, beans, peas, and the various ingredients
for mixed pickles. The easiest and best time to
do canning is in the fall; so make a second plant-
ing of tomatoes, from seed sown in the open in
April; a planting of Golden Bantam in June; a
planting of some first-quality early pea just after
the first good rain during the latter part of July;
and a generous sowing of your favorite dwarf
bean about August first, all especially for canning.
for Present Planting ciark v. THaver
A Thoroughgoing American Group of Iron-clad Plants for Everyman’s Garden
i
ih}
\
Wallace, Cross of Honor, The Queen
ulata, which bloom in late April and May, and
Phlox amoena which overlaps the period of
bloom of the preceding species, the procession
of bloom is carried along by the blue Phlox di-
varicata, followed closely by the hybrid (of Ger-
man origin) Phlox Arendsiit. Then in the final
burst of glory come the varieties of Phlox suf-
fruticosa and Phlox paniculata.
The great range of height in this family is a
favorable point not to be forgotten. In height
the various forms range from the low, trailing
Phlox subulata to the tall-growing varieties of
Phlox paniculata, which among themselves vary
from ten inches to four or five feet. Conse-
quently they are adapted to various positions
in the garden or the herbaceous border.
The Phlox fits various locations in various
parts of the garden. For example, there is the
sun-loving Phlox subulata, an admirable plant
for the rock garden, or for a dry, gravelly or sandy
bank. Then there is the semi-shade-loving
Phlox divaricata, also Phlox stolonifera, the
moisture-loving Phlox pilosa (the last two not
commonly grown), and finally, the varieties of
Phlox suffruticosa and paniculata, not so partic-
A
Zs
About six hundred varieties are offered for your selection. Varieties shown: Richard
ular as to soil and location, and extremely valu-
able plants for everyone’s garden.
Then consider the wide range of colors, especi-
ally in the Phlox paniculata varieties. If you
are not already acquainted with their colors,
glance through a list of Phlox in a catalogue and
note the various shades and combinations of
colors. It is true that some of these colors are
displeasing to say the least, but there are enough
attractive varieties from which to make your
choice without selecting those of poor color. And
last, but not least in importance, is hardiness.
Who ever is compelled to protect his Hardy
Phlox, after they are once established, in the man-
ner that he would protect his Lilies, or many
others of his garden flowers, in order to bring
them through the winter successfully?
There are five particular species of Phlox, var-
ieties of which you should grow in your garden or
border. ‘These species, in their order of bloom
are as follows: Phlox subulata, the Moss Pink;
Phlox amoena, the Lovely Phlox; Phlox divari-
‘cata, the Wild Sweet William; Phlox suffruticosa,
the early-flowering Summer Phlox; and Phlox
paniculata (P. decussata of some catalogues),
126
the late-flowering Summer Phlox. In the follow-
ing notes on varieties, colors are described ac-
cording to Ridgway’s “Color Standards and Color
Nomenclature,’ and immediately following, in
parentheses, the colors are given in popular
terms. The following list includes some of the
best forms observed in a large collection.
The typical Phlox subulata, the Moss Pink of
our grandmothers’ gardens, is frequently found
growing wild in certain Eastern States. It is not
sO attractive in color as are some of the varieties
which have been obtained from it. The variety
rosea is a form of much better color, light mallow
purple (light purplish rose) with a very small
“*feye” or centre of pansy purple (purplish red).
The variety, Vivid, amaranth pink (light, rose)
with a small eye of amaranth purple (bright pur-
plish red), is well worthy of note, although it does
not grow so rapidly as some other varieties. In
the lilac shades, there is a form listed by at least
one nursery firm as Phlox Stellaria, but it appears
to be a variety of P. subulata rather than the true
species of that name; it is a vigorous grower and
bears flowers of a pale lobelia violet color (pale
lilac) with a very small eye of deep blue violet
(intense blue violet). The flowers of P. subulata
lilacina, more commonly listed than the preceding,
are well described by thename. Nelsonii is a pure
white form, but is not so vigorous a grower as the
variety alba, which is white with a small eye.
Phlox amoena, sometimes known as the Lovely
Phlox, is a creeping form with larger leaves and
flowers than in the Moss Pink. It deserves to
be more widely known than it is at present. With
its numerous flowers of a near light mallow purple
shade (light purplish rose) and its dense, trailing
habit of growth, it is an excellent plant for the
rock garden or for a dry, gravelly soil.
Without question the best form of Phlox
divaricata is the variety Laphamiu; growing to a
neight of twelve inches and producing an abun-
dance of light lavender-violet flowers (light lav-
ender-blue), it is indeed an attractive plant. It
holds its color much better than do other types.
Phlox Arendsii, a cross between varieties of
Phlox paniculata and a seedling resulting from a
cross between Phlox divaricata and its variety
Laphamii, does not appear to be well fitted for a
heavy clay soil. Its greatest usefulness seems
to be in carrying over the season of bloom from
Phlox divaricata to Phlox suffruticosa.
The types which are usually referred to when
Hardy Phlox is mentioned are the varieties of
early and late-flowering summer Phlox, Phlox
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
suffruticosa and Phlox paniculata’ respectively.
They easily take rank with such other important
flowers as the Peony, the Delphinium, and the Iris.
The varieties of the suffruticosa type usually
come into bloom in the early part of June and
continue in bloom throughout a part of July.
If the panicles are removed as soon as the season
of bloom has passed, lateral branches will de-
velop which will give a second crop of bloom later
in the season (This also holds true for varieties
The “‘ paniculata’”’ varieties have the greatest range of colors
and are the latest to flower
of the late-flowering type). The color range in
this group is quite limited. The predominant
types are (1) white, (2) white with an eye more
or less sharply defined, or some shade of mallow
purple (purplish rose) or a closely related color,
and (3) shades of mallow purple and closely re-
lated colors.
One of the best varieties of the suffruticosa type (in fact, one of the
best of all Hardy Phlox) is the variety Miss Lingard. Frequently
catalogued as a pure white, it usually shows faint markings at the
centre of mallow pink (faint purplish rose). However, at a dis-
tance, the flowers appear to be pure white. With its fine panicles of
bloom, frequently one foot in length, and growing to an average
height of thirty-eight inches, it is indeed a valuable variety.
APRIL, 1919
Miss Cook, white with a sharply defined eye of aster purple
(purplish red) is one of the best of this type; its average height is
twenty-eight inches. It isto be preferred to Mrs. Dalrymple because
of its more free-blooming qualities. Keep in mind the fact that Miss
Cook is distinct from either Annie Cook or Mrs. Cook, two pani-
culata varieties.
The Phlox paniculata group is the most im-
portant of all. In 1917 there were listed in Amer-
ican catalogues at least five hundred and eighty-
four varieties of this type as compared with forty-
two varieties of the suffruticosa type. Many of
these are certainly unworthy of cultivation because
there are so many others that are superior. Those
which are mentioned in the following paragraphs
have been selected as a few of the best in a col-
lection of several hundred varieties. It is true
that some of these varieties may not do well under
other conditions, but under the given ,conditions
they have proved very satisfactory.
One of the first of the white-flowered types that come to mind is
the variety F. G. Von Lassburg (listed under various modifications,
of thisname). This is the most commonly listed of the white forms
and is a very satisfactory variety. It grows to a height of thirty-
three inches and is usually at its best in the early part of August.
Albaire and Berenice (they are so similar that one is as good as the
other) are more dwarf, about twenty-one inches; they are in prime
condition at about the same time as the Von Lassburg. For an
extremely dwarf variety, what better could be desired than the
little Hermine, seldom more than ten inches, but a vigorous plant
with fine panicles of bloom? Fiancée has larger individual florets
than Hermine, but it is several inches taller. There seems to be
a need for a large-flowered, late-blooming white. Jeanne d’ Arc,
averaging thirty-six inches, is one of the best at present; the panicles
are ch excellent form and size, but the individual florets are rather
small,
Bridesmaid may be selected as one of the best of the whites with
a dark eye or centre. In this form the eye is large, rhodamine
purple in color (an extremely bright purple-rose) and at its best
during the early part of August. In height it averages thirty-three
inches. La Perle du Nord, about twenty-four inches in height, with
an eye of aster purple (purplish red) is a late-blooming variety. A
very attractive form, but not very commonly listed, is the variety
Frau Bosch Bader, twenty-eight inches in height, with flowers of
white (described as an alabaster white) with a small eye of rhoda-
mine purple (an extremely bright purple-rose).
Of the salmon shades, Elizabeth Campbell is without doubt the
most popular variety. It is listed almost as frequently as Miss
Lingard. It is of stocky habit, twenty-four inches tall, with florets
ofa beautiful begonia rose (deep salmon-pink) shading lighter toward
the centre and a small eye of rhodamine purple.
The variety Asia does not seem to produce a large number of
stalks, but it does produce elegant panicles of flowers. In height
it averages about thirty inches, light mallow purple (light purplish
rose) with a small eye of amaranth purple (bright purplish red).
Another good variety of this type is Cheswick, a tall variety about
forey ae inches, light mallow purple with a small eye of rhodamine
purple.
It is difficult to name a good scarlet variety because the scarlets
“burn” so easily in strong sunlight. Coquelicot is listed very com-
monly but the plants under observation have been very unsatis-
factory. George A. Strohlein has done quite well but even in this
variety the color burns. It is about twenty-four iuches in height,
in color a scarlet red with a small dark-red eye.
Mme. Paul Dutrie should not be omitted from the list, for it is one
of the very attractive lighter shades. It may best be described as a
white, flushed with deep rose pink with a very small eye of rhodamine
purple; in height it averages about thirty inches.
Purple and red shades in the Phlox are in general not very pleas-
ing; the purples contain too much red and the reds contain too
much purple. But are we so eager to have these shades in our gar-
dens? Of the purples, Le Mahdi, a deep pansy violet (reddish
purple) is one of the best, and in the reds, B. Comte, a vivid aster
purple (a vivid purplish red) is one of the most desirable.
There are considerabie variations of forms in the flower heads of the Pereniual Phlox as these portraits demonstrate.
tions make effective groupings possible.
The plants also show decided differences of height which with the color distinc-
The varieties above are (left to right) La Belle du Nord, Asia, Frau Bosch Bader, all described in the text
acta
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Some folks cultivate a garden for the sake of always having fresh
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127
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ANGEROUS weather, this.
Don’t be fooled by bright
sunny forenoons; a frost is
nouncommonthingany time
up to May Day, oreven Memorial Day.
Consequently, plant and sow outdoors
only those things that you know are
hardy; and don’t neglect to close and,
if necessary, cover the hotbeds about sun-
down each evening.
Join a garden club so as to get full
beneft from its stimulation and en-
couragement. If there isn’t any such
organization in your neighborhood,
gather some kindred, congenial spirits
andstartone. THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
will gladly make suggestions as to how
to go about it and will give you any
other assistance possible. One useful
thing such a club could do right now
would be to have an outdoor meeting
and demonstrate or test out all the
different kinds of garden tools that
can be collected. A live implement dealer near by
ought to be willing to codperate in his own interests.
Stake every tree you plant that is more than three feet
high. Use strips of strong cloth to tie it to the stake,
or pieces of old hose with wires run through, not bare
wire or small rope that will quickly cut the bark.
Remove labels from newly planted fruit trees so the
wires will not strangle the twigs around which they are
twisted; or adjust them more loosely, or use a zinc
label wrapped around the twig so it will expand as the
tree grows. In either case it is safest also to mark the
position of each tree on a permanent plan of the place
—including the variety name and date of planting.
Don’t put faith in cheap seeds offered at bargain prices
in department stores and corner groceries but give a little
personal thought to your real needs and buy each
‘special article from a specialist even if the price seems
higher.
Ground, dried sheep manure is one of the handiest,
safest, and most convenient of fertilizers you can use on
lawns and in digging up ground to receive seeds or
plants of any sort. It will not burn roots or foliage;
it is available fairly soon after use; and its value lasts
for a considerable period.
If your vegetable garden is large enough to be plowed
and harrowed, insist that the final fittings shall be done
with the acme and the meeker smoothing harrows—
in that order. The latter leaves the seedbed almost as
fine as if it had been raked. Of course, it must be
planted promptly, before the soil has a chance to settle
or crust over.
Sow little patches of quick-growing green stuff—
millet, rape, oats, turnips—anything-that is hardy and
cheap, so that the poultry can have some early roughage.
Such catch crops can be dug under, whenever you need
the space, with benefit to the soil. Later on you will
have all you need in the form of thinnings, weeds,
waste tops, etc.
Finish planting deciduous trees (fruit and ornamen-
tal), hardy perennial plants, bulbs, and shrubs before
the season of active growth is actually under way.
This is the best time to start a little water garden.
It may call for some concrete construction, or it may
mean merely a tub sunk inthe ground. In any case get
the site ready right away and order the materials that
will have to be planted next month; the Pigmy Water-
lilies are the best for a small space.
Finish manuring and spading up beds in readiness for
the planting out of Pansies, Verbenas, Daisies, Stocks,
and all kinds of semi-hardy and tender annual material
during the next several weeks.
Complete the deep preparation of beds and borders
in which you plan to put hardy perennials next fall.
By that time the manure will have become well incor-
porated, and the lime and wood ashes will have gotten
in their good work. Meanwhile the beds can be kept
attractive with shallow rooting annuals which will not
take any appreciable amount of plant food from the
later tenants.
A handful of sand beneath each bulb, or an inch-deep
layer spread over a formal bulb after the topsoil has
been removed and before the bulbs are put in place,
is a good preventive of rot and one method of stimulat-
ing larger lower growth.
Sow Oriental Poppies in a sheltered, outdoor hotbed.
Thin when necessary, then leave until Jate summer
when the plants can be moved to their permanent loca-
tions. Don’t be alarmed if the tops die down; a new
growth will develop about transplanting time.
As the soil dries out a little and gets warm, sow an-
nuals, in increasing variety—Asters, Candytuft, Car-
nations, Celosia, Centaurea, Marigold, Nasturtium—
this is only the beginning of a long, long list. They can
all be started right where they are wanted, but time
can be saved by sowing them in a special seedbed care-
fully prepared in a frame.
The Reminder is to “suggest’’ what may be done during the next few weeks. _ r l ) €
are given in the current or the back issues of THe GarpeN MacazinE—it is manifestly impossible to give
all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine.
In calculating times to plant out of doors New York City is the usual standard. £ i
day is the rate at which the season advances. Thus Albany which is one hundred and fifty miles from New
York would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia which is ninety miles southwest about a week earlier.
Dr. Hopkins (page 20, Feb. issue) estimates four days for each one degree of latitude or five
or four hundred feet of altitude.
Che Monts Reminder
APRIL—THE MONTH OF ACTION
Let these principles guide you in April: pre
1. Keep your head inthe midst of the rush of duties. This is the
cornerstone month of the whole year’s work; lay it firmly and securely by
completeing each job thoroughly and in its proper sequence.
2. Make everything you do count: first, toward future results; and
then, toward present appearances and immediade results.
hope for crops and flowers yet, but you can rest content in the knowledge
that you are storing them up for future certain enjoyment whenever you
dig, enrich, sweeten, and fine the soil in advance of sowing and planting.
GULF OF
MEXICO
Map oF Prantinc Zones: The first planting time for any crop
varies according to location. The zones shown here indicate the
general relationships of different parts of the country (as prepared by
the Department of Agriculture). The dates given below are averages
and will vary somewhat year by year. The common vegetables are
considered in four groups as follows: Group 1—Smooth peas, onion
sets, kale, early cabbage, potatoes, collards, and radishes. Group 2
—Wrinkled peas, beets, carrots, parsnips, lettuce, salsify, and spin-
ach. Group 3—String beans, tomato plants, sweet corn, and okra.
Group 4—Peppers, eggplant, lima beans, cucumbers, melons, sweet
potatoes, and squash.
Prantinc Dates. Zone E: Groupt, April 15 to May 1, except
collards. Group 2, May 1to May 15. Group 3, May 15 to June 1,
except okra. Group 4, June 1 to June 15, except eggplant, melons,
sweet potatoes.
Zone D: Group i, April1to April15. Group 2, April 15 to May
1. Group 3, May 1toMayi1s5. Group 4, May 15 to June tr.
Zone C: Group 1, March 15 to April 15. Group 2, April 1 to
April1s. Group 3, April1s to May 1. Group 4, May 1 to May ts.
Zone B: Group 1, March 1 to March 15. Group 2, March 15 to
April 15, except salsify. Group 3, April r to April 15. Group 4,
April 15 to April 3o.
Zone A: Group 1, February 1to Marchi. Group 2, February 15
to March 15, except salsify. Group 3, March 1 to March 31. Group
4, March 15 to April 15.
As soon as the foliage of the perennials can be distin-
guished, rake and clean up around and among them;
if possible spade in a little manure at this time, but not
deep enough to injure any roots.
When all danger from frost has passed plant out bulbs
that flowered in the house during the winter—Daffodils,
Tulips, Narcissus, Hyacinths, etc. They may not do
as well as new bulbs bought for the purpose, but as they
are useless for future indoor use, this is a better plan
than throwing them away.
Bring outdoors for a few hours in the middle of the day
any potted plants, gradually increasing the time until
they are hardened enough to be plunged—pots and all—
in a half shady, out-of-the-way corner of the garden for
the summer.
Pot up bedding plants if they begin to grow too big
for the flats’ before it is time to plant them out. Keep
the sash off the hotbeds as long as the sun is on them
anyway, and, in the case of those in which hardy stuff
is growing, all day long.
It is safe to sow now in the hotbed Antirrhinum,
Aquilegia, Aster, Castor-oil-bean (Ricinus), Celosia,
Chrysanthemum, Clematis, Calendula, Cosmos, Prim-
rose, Salvia, Verbena.
Tips About/Tools
When you buy your lawn mower—choose
one of medium width, so that you can
cover your lawn with the least walking
and, at the same time, without getting
dead tired from pushing a miniature
horse machine. Use a heart-shaped hoe
for opening furrows for peas, beans, and even smaller
seeds, and in covering them after they are planted.
Have you the best cultivating tool? Some implements
128
You cannot
Details of how to do each item
Roughly fifteen miles a
degrees of longitude,
are adapted to entirely different con-
ditions and others vary only in
minor details of size, shape, and bal-
ance, that you ought to be able to find
two or three weeders, cultivators, or
scufde hoes that in your case will
take most of the “ill” out of tillage.
Of course everybody won’t agree with
your choice, but they will be wrong—
it is the best for you.
Anything more than an acre of lawn
will probably justify a power-drivenlawn
mower, or at least one of the horse-
drawn affairs. If the latter, include a
set of horse boots in the equipment to
prevent the tearing up of the turf.
Clean every tool before you put it
away at the end of each day—not
onceaweek. Rub off the dirt with an
old piece of burlap, then brush over
all bright surfaces with an oily rag.
In using a wheel hoe shorten the
strokes with which. you push it for-
ward to correspond with the delicacy of the work being
done. And between each two steps draw it back a
few inches and make a fresh start. Inno case attempt
to push it forward steadily like a lawn mower, except (a)
when opening up a furrow with the plow attachment,
and (b) when sowing seed with the seeder attachment.
On With the Ornamental Works
First of all; a general all-around clean-up
and scrub-up! Leave no old tops and
refuse to carry and spread disease. Re-
move the last of the winter mulch from
«the bulb beds.
Fork up the soil as soon as sufficiently
dried up about the roots; work in a generous application
of bone meal and a very light dressing of nitrate of soda
as the growth starts.
Plant on the lighter soils first, leaving the heavy, stiff
clays until the end of the month, or at least the end of
the planting programme. Just because trees look big and
tough compared with seedlings, don’t neglect to make
the soil loose and fine, and to sift and firm it thoroughly
around them when planting. The feeding rootlets of
the Oak are just as delicate and fine as those of the
Poppy. ;
When pruning, cut the limb off flush against the
parent branch—and make the cut clean and true.
Therefore keep the saw and the shears very sharp.
After pruning, carefully rake up and burn all trimmings
and litter.. This is not only because it is neater, but also
because it removes harboring places for insects and
incubating places for rots and other diseases.
Finish Pruning the Roses
Make a final examination of the shrubs
for the presence of scale, and if any is
discovered give a last dormant spraying
right away.
d Look to the shrubs and take out all
dead wood and branches that are obviously in the way,
and head back such of the later summer and fall
bloomers as need it. But don’t touch the early spring
blooming kinds, on which the flower buds are all formed
and ready to open. :
Water newly planted trees, shrubs, and bulbs if the
weather is unseasonably dry. The brisk winds of early
spring make away with lots of soil moisture.
Lingering About the Lawn
hy to produce more weeds.
There are only two things to do with a steep bank or
terrace: Sod it carefully (it is very difficult to establish
grass there from seed), or plant ground covers such as
Periwinkle, Wichuraiana Roses, etc. A few trailers
are also useful in covering the ground under trees where
the shade is too dense for grass. Phlox divaricata and
Pyrethrum Tchihatchewii are good. ! ;
Begin to mow the grass as soon as there is the slightest
excuse. By mowing frequently you can avoid the
necessity of raking up the clippings. Worm casts on
your lawn sometimes accompany excessive moisture.
However, if you cannot conveniently drain the plot
now, or if there is some other reason for their presence,
sprinkle a solution of corrosive sublimate (three or four
tablets in a pint of water) from a watering pot, to kill
the worms. f
If you want to read up on the whole subject, from
start to finish, get “Lawns and How to Make Them.”
Price, $1.10 by mail.
APRIL,
1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
O MORE back-breaking, browbedewing hoeing and
cultivating with old-fashioned tools. Work upright
with an Iron Age. Get health, exhilaration, genuine joy
from a turn in the garden.
Iron Age Garden Tools are made in many styles. There
are Hill and Drill Seeders that sow with remarkable ac-
curacy either in hills or drills, furrowing, planting, covering, pack-
ing the soil and marking the next row in one operation. ‘There
are Single and Double Wheel Hoes that make furrows for such
crops as potatoes; that ridge, cultivate, hoe and rake, keeping the
soil in that well-mulched condition necessary for success,
For every garden seeding and tillage purpose—an Iron Age. They
are used in thousands upon thousands of vegetable and flower
gardens by men, women, boys and girls who garden ina farm-like
way.
See your dealer and write for copy of “Modern Gardening”
Bateman M’f’g Co., Box 35G Grenloch, N. J.
Makers of good implements since 1836
Canadian Factory:
The Bateman-Wilkinson Co., Ltd.
35 Symington Ave., Toronto, Can.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
APRIL, 1919
130 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE :
“Gilson”
STANDS FOR
Garden Tools
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NEW
EVERGREEN
LONICERAS
N
In the Vegetable Garden
Are these tasks done and out of the way:
Spreading manure on the garden; spad-
ing up of most of it; the first plantings
of hardy crops—radishes, beets, par-
snips, onions, spinach, etc. The second
’ planting should include most of the above
group for succession, and also wrinkled peas and pota-
toes, and lettuce, cauliflower, and cabbage plants.
Start in paper pots or old berry boxes in the hotbed,
lima beans, cucumbers, melons, squash, etc. These
Yes, a tool for every purpose! Whether you
cultivate a flower bed on your front lawn or a
patriotic acre food garden, there are several
tools among the many we make, that will help
you do the work better, in less time. Our
business has doubled and trebled the last few
years, because our labor savers have made
many friends.
“You Can’t Say Too Much
About The Gilson Weeder’’
says the Editor of The Garden
Ni
ad
—_— <<
Magazine, and thousands of Home
gardeners agree with him. A dou-
Ee ble edged, oscillating blade, a set
of strong teeth, and a stout six foot ash handle
make the Gilson Weeder the most formidable
foe to weeds anyone may wish. And it’s just
as safe to let the children use it as though you
use it yourself. Three and one-half, five, six,
and eight inch blades for flower beds, light soils
and wide rows, at moderate prices from $1.00
up. Gilson Weeders shorten garden hours.
The Same Holds Good of
The Liberty Cul-
tivator Weeder
It stands
for Liberty
from garden
drudgery.
As shown
alongside
with seven
specially
constructed
Pee to sat
breaks up
soil, pulverizes and up-roots weeds from four
to ten inches wide. Furnished with five foot
ash handle or with special wheel frame, as a
wheelhoe. Special size for gardeners, who
mean business, nine teeth covering fourteen
inches in one operation.
Hand Weeders and
Dandelion Diggers, Too
For the sake of your garden and results from it, investi-
gate the really complete Gilson line of garden tools. Most
good dealers handle them. If not, send to us for descrip-
tive pamphlets and prices.
J. E. GILSON COMPANY
Port Washington Wisconsin
FOUR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTABLE FROM
5 70 14 IN.
must not have their roots disturbed in transplanting.
Prevent overcrowding in flats, frames, and hotbeds by
frequent transplanting. Give all the ventilation that is
safe; that is, close the hotbeds only when cold threatens.
As the hardy material goes from frames to the garden,
and the tender plants are shifted from the hotbeds to the
frames, start cucumbers, melons, tomatoes in the va-
cated hotbeds to mature there.
Uncover the parsley rows that are to supply you until
this spring’s sowing comes along. A little liquid manure
or nitrate of soda in solution will hasten the develop-
ment of tender, crisp foliage.
Within two or three days after planting potatoes go
over the entire surface of the bed with a wooden rake.
Repeat the treatment in a week, and again a week later
after which the shoots should be well in view and permit
regular cultivation of the rows.
__ Whenever you plant a row of an all-season crop, see
if you cannot put in alongside it some quick grower that
will be ready for use in four or six weeks and that during
that period will be living off otherwise unutilized land.
_ Remember, onions do themselves justice only in the
richest, finest, most mellow of soils.
Just before April ends plant a row of some short
season variety of corm—say a dozen hills. The seeds
may never germinate, or the plants may be nipped bya
frost; but the outlay won’t be much and if the season is
kind, you may get an unprecedentedly early crop.
Sprinkle bits of poisoned bran mash on newly dug
soil to destroy cutworm. :
After the small, non-usable asparagus shoots have
grown about four inches high, cut and burn them to
destroy the eggs that the adult asparagus beetles may
have laid upon them.
Ontons sown late this month in soil that did not grow
the same crop last year, and forced along rapidly, often
escape injury by maggots.
Pick and burn the leaves of young beets and spinach
that show the irregular translucent tracks of leaf miners.
Fighting for Finer Fruit
If mice or rabbits girdled any of your fruit
trees, save them by “bridge grafting” as
described in any standard book on plant
propagation and on page 120 of this issue.
Finish regular grafting, or “top work-
x ing” within a week after the buds of the
fruit trees swell.
Strawberries can be planted any timethis month, but
the earlier the better. Rake the mulch from the estab-
lished strawberry bed into the space between the rows,
unless you grow the plants by the matted row system
in which case it had better be removed altogether.
It is really too late for best results from grape pruning,
but if you have been absolutely prevented from attend-
ing to 1t, do it now. However, make each cut several
inches above a bud and sear the end with a red hot iron
or blow torch to check the bleeding.
Look overthe currants and gooseberries, especially near
the ground, as soon as the plants begin to leaf out, for
the unpleasantly familiar currant worms. When they
begin to appear, spray with arsenate of lead (in water
or bordeaux mixture if you prefer) directing the spray
from below upward so as to wet the under side of the
leaves.
Scrape away six inches of soil from around the peach
trees and if sawdust and gum are found, look closely for
the openings of the burrows of borers that caused the
trouble. When located open up a little with a sharp
knife and insert a flexible wire to crush the grubs within.
Better repeat the examination a week or so later.
Grape vines on which the leaves are just opening may
be found to be infested with tiny steely blue beetles;
pick them off or knock them off into a pan of kerosene.
—
G@iS~ To make these reminder notes useful, check
off each task as you do it and put the date alongside, so
the pages will serve asa permanent record. In addition,
start a garden journal or diary for your ideas and dis-
coveries as well as your accomplishments.
(L. pileata and L. nitida)
discovered by E. H. Wilson
now offered for sale by us.
In 4” pots $1.25 each
In 24” pots .60 each
We offer, also, for Spring
1919 delivery, pot-grown
plants of Cotonea'sters,
Hardy Heathers, 'Bearberry,
and many other hardy
ground-covers, as well as
our usual Hardy ‘Trees,
Shrubs and Herbaceous
Plants.
EASTERN NURSERIES, Inc.
Henry S. Dawson, Mgr. _
Holliston
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Mass.
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Dahlia Bargain Extraordinary !
Diana, Crimson, reverse Violet, Peony flowered (Retail value
$1.50), Mrs. Dickens, Silky Yellow, Decorative; Perle de Lyon,
Pure White Hybrid Cactus and Cuban Giant, Crimson Ball;
—all four for $1.00, prepaid!
tooo other varieties of Dahlias; and othercollectionsin catalogue.
INDIANA DAHLIA FARM New Albany, Ind.
Gladioli Dahlias Lilies
Phlox Iris Peonies
and other Summer Flowering Bulbs and
Hardy Perennials
VIGOROUS HOME-GROWN STOCK
OF THE CHOICEST VARIETIES
Send for Spring List now ready and receive our Fall
Catalogue later
FRANKEN BROTHERS
Deerfield, Illinois
emia
A Perpetual Spinach >
Box 450
will come, and come again.
Not a Swiss chard but a big leafed, quick growing,
= A real spinach that you can cut, and recut; and it
y Summer and Fall spinach.
(S) Takes the place of all other varieties
iS 10c.a package. 30c.anounce. }lb. for $1.
Send for Garden Lover's Book. Free.
6 Schlings Seeds
MAX SCHLING, Inc.
24 West 59th Street New York
(s)
Seee
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
1919
APRIL,
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
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i
AN i
PERFECTION
CULTIVATOR
The lightest cultivator on the
market, hence easy to operate. A
perfect machine to do the job of
cultivating completely; it cuts the
weeds, pulverizes the soil, throws
the soil to or from the rows. Leaf-
hfters prevent injury to plants. A
simple change of bolts automatically
adapts the machine to shallow or
deep cultivation, deep for use on
loam or shallow cultivation on heavy
clay. Of simplest construction and
strongest workmanship.
Any of 3 Sizes, $3.50 each
No: 1, with two discs, on which 6 inch or 7 inch
eaves may be used, will work rows 9 to 11 inches
wide.
No. 2, with four discs for use with 814 inch knife,
will do the work between 11 to 14 inch wide rows.
No. 3, with four discs, and 11 inch knife, works 13
to 16 inches wide.
Order to-day—don’t fight weeds the old-
fashioned way. Descriptive circular free as
is also our catalogue of seeds for present
planting,
Leonard Seed Co.
226-30 W. Kinzie St. Chicago, Ill.
LEONARD’S BULK
GARDEN SEEDS
are sold by dealers in all parts of the
country. If your dealer cannot supply you
with Leonard’s Seeds write to our retail
department, 810 W. Randolph St., Chicago
Earlier than you ever had before
The World’s Demand
For Food
will be greater than ever this year. Hun-
dreds of Market Gardeners are miore
than doubling their profits by using
my wonderful Plant Forcing devices.
Don’t be satisfied with a garden like
the other fellow—beat him to it.
No matter how backward the
spring, it’s easy with
THE BALL SEED & PLANT FORCER
cheap enough to use them by the thousands, Send for my Beautitul Free BOOK.
HOW to GROW BIGGER, BETTER and EARLIER CROPS than you ever had
before. It gives you gardening information found in no other publication, It
tells you how you can have a garden with flowers in full bloom and vegetables
for your table a month earlier than you ever had before. Just drop me a post-
card and I'll send you your copy by return mail.
THE BALL MANUFACTURING COMPANY
Department “‘E’”’ Glenside, Pa.
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Single Sash Junior Frame, meas-
ures 34x 384 inches and costs
only $5.20 complete with cast
iron corner pieces and sash.
TNT
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A Two Sash Junior Frame meas-
ures 68 x 384 inches and costs
complete only $8.73.
GEER
SF
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VISTO
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Melon Frames in Commodore Gerry’s garden
at Newport.
Why don’t you order at least 10, and make
sure of having honey hearted melons every
year. 10 cost so little as $19.
Boost Your Garden
With These Frames
WEY,
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—It
T PAYS, because it paves the
way for a longer garden season.
The longer the season, the more
you have from your garden, and
the less you have to buy.
Right now, if you had frames you
could gain not less than a month.
Think, what a month’s more vege-
tables mean, snatched from Jack
Frost!
You can’t plant melons in the open
now, but you can plant them in
our Melon Frames and have such
IMSS ISIIIS IO
pays 7
melons as you never thought pos-
sible.
Melon Frames cost $2.09 each, or
10 for $19.
One sash Junior Frame, 38” x 34’,
costs only $5.20.
Two sash $8.73. Three sash $12.60.
Even a big four sash standard
frame, 38’ x11’-8’” costs only
$16.03.
Send your order. We will send
you a booklet, telling just how to
secure best results from frames.
MOC
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FN Builders of Greenhouses and Conservatories
@ SALES OFFICES
{| IRVINGTON NEW YORK CHICAGO ROCHESTER
New York 42nd St. Bldg. Continental Bank Bldg. 29 Avondale Park
<( CLEVELAND TORONTO MONTREAL
1316 Ramona Ave. Royal Bank Bldg. Transportation Bldg.
A FACTORIES:
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NATIVE RHODODENDRONS AND KALMIAS
in Carload Lots, at Reasonable Prices
Our collectors have secured a splendid lot of Rhododendron maximum and
Laurels, in specimen plants, for spring delivery. These are the ideal
hardy broad-leayed Evergreens for massing or grouping under
trees or along borders. Get our prices NOW.
Write for Free Catalogue
Describes our general line of fruits and ornamen-
tals which will be found complete in every re-
spect. Please ask for your copy to-day.
The Morris Nursery Company
1123 Broadway, New York City
WZLLLLLadddddadiadaddr
Irvington, N. Y. Des Plaines, Ill. St. Catharines, Ontario
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Absurdities in Quarantine No. 37
To the Editor of The Garden Magazine:
: H ‘HE more Quarantine No. 37 is considered the
more utterly absurd does it appear. The
marvel is that anybody of intelligence could de-=
vise so senseless a measure—one so entirely op-
posed to reason. Our governmental administra-
cion of railroads, telegraphs, mail, and express
has im every case given us poorer service at en-
hanced prices, and the new exclusion order of the
Federal Horticultural Board seems perfectly in
keeping with the spirit of these others; and no
matter what protests are made the general an-
swer from the present powers-that-be of the Fed-
eral Horticultural Board is that they are ready
to receive any “constructive recommendations.”
It is probably of little avail to say anything of
the present personnel of the Federal Horticul-
tural Board. The present Assistant Secretary of
Agriculture informs me that it is composed of very
capable men who have all their lives studied “‘prob-
lems of plant life, plant diseases and pests, and
the structure of plants.” The fact remains just
the same that the Board does not contain a solitary
practical horticulturist. Had it contained such
it is doubtful if this sweeping Quarantine 37
could have been promulgated.
We are all just as desirous as the Federal Hor-
ticultural Board to bar out diseases and insect
pests. As practical horticulturists we probably
have an even greater yearning for a diminution
in the ranks of all insect foes; our interest is per-
sonal—theirs academic. In my own special case
it means the purchase of three or four tons of ar-
senate of lead annually to protect our trees and
shrubs from but one pest, which was turned loose
by an entomologist near Boston some years ago.
I refer to the gipsy moth. Now we are threat-
ened with still another drastic quarantine due to
the coming of the corn root borer and $500,000
is being asked of Congress to help fight this
newer pest in Massachusetts alone. This new
foe did not come in on nursery stock, our federal
department thinks that it “probably arrived on
rope, jute, or hemp straw’’; there has not as yet
been any recommendation made for the debar-
ring of these useful but pest-carrying commodities.
The Federal Horticultural Board has received
so many letters of protest that they felt it neces-
sary of late to send broadcast a lengthy memo-
randum in which they made a somewhat pathetic
attempt to justify their coming embargo. Their
duties are supposed to be chiefly the exclusion
of undesirable insects, and diseases, but finding
their position increasingly untenable they are
telling us of the benefits of home production of
all excluded plants. Congress has never given
them powers to enact fiscal legislation, however,
and their effrontery is only matched by their
ignorance of practical horticulture when they say
that they see no reason why all excluded plants
cannot be “‘promptly produced” in this country.
Let us consider for a few moments a number
of the subjects to be excluded after June 1, which
are to be “promptly produced” at home. Or-
chids first. They are one of the glories of our
exhibitions; were at one time classed as the play-
things of millionaires, but are now grown in large
numbers in both private and commercial estab-
lishments in far from affluent circumstances.
Some I could name grow them in their homes.
The bulk of imported Orchids came to us from
Central America and the East Indies. None of
these are grown out of doors in this country.
They are examined before shipment; on arrival
are fumigated heavily, and not infrequently this
causes the death of 10 to 50 per cent of the
plants; and are further reéxamined on entering
various states. They have never in the past car-
ried insects which have caused damage in gardens,
farms, orchards, or woodlands; and it has never
been claimed that they have carried any new
diseases, yet they are to be entirely excluded.
\ letter of protest to the Secretary of Agricul-
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
ture brought the writer a list of insects which had
been found on Orchids. The chief of these are
mealy bug, scale in variety, Cattleya fly, and
Orchid midge. The two latter attack Orchids only,
the former were here before any Orchids were im-
ported. The same letter contained the state-
ment that the principal Orchid importers here
were going into the raising of seedlings of Orchids
and were “through” with imported stock. Ifthese
growers exist I would be glad to learn of their
whereabouts as J have been unable to locate them!
It takes about twelve months to ripen a pod
of Cattleya seed, I have not been able to flower
any seedlings in less than three and one-half
years and far the greater number take 5, 6, 7, or
even 9 years to reach the blooming stage. This
means that any one starting now to produce seed-
ling Orchids on a commercial scale would prob-
ably have a limited number of plants for sale in
1924 if customers demanded plants in flower; but
it would be 1926, or 1927 before the main batch are
ready if fertilization of flowers is started forthwith.
All our Bay Trees have come from Belgium.
The age of plants sold here is from 8 to 25 years,
in some cases 35 years. Boxwoods have also
come in from heroic Belgium. ‘They are of slow
growth and the average plants sold here are 12-
15 years old. Have we the climate, the skillful
growers, and those’ willing to wait these long
years for financial returns?
Take Hybrid Rhododendrons. It is necessary
to grow stocks before these are grafted and on an,
average plants we receive here have 6 and 7 years
of growth. The same applies to Azalea indica,
all of which have in the past come from Belgium.
I am aware that a firm on the Pacific Coast some
years ago embarked im the growing of Rhododen-
drons and Azaleas on a large scale. ‘Their plants
grew more rapidly than in Belgium but unfor-
tunately stock received by various eastern grow-
ers from this source produced practically no flow-
ers, and the firm in question went into the hands
of receivers some time ago.
Belgium has also in the past produced nearly
all our Araucarias or Norfolk Island Pines, also
a great proportion of our Palms as well as a great
number of Orchids. All her plant products are
now debarred after her growers have for more than
four terrible years struggled to keep some portion
of their stock for us. We are told that bugs
abound in the soil which contains the roots of
these plants, yet we continue to import as many
thousand bales of peat moss litter as we want, and
are not these likely to be as fertile carriers of bugs
and diseases as the roots of plants?
We will be allowed to import certain stocks of
Roses and fruit trees after June 1 as these cannot
be successfully produced here, but budded or
grafted Roses or fruit trees of the smallest size
are debarred. It requires more sophistry than
even the members of the Federal Horticultural
Board possesses to convince any intelligent man
or woman that the one is a more potent factor for
evil than the other. In this connection it is in-
teresting to note that certain propagators here—
a few in the East, but more in the West—demand
these stocks but favor exclusion of all grafted plants!
Their idea of course is to start grafting and by
excluding foreign supplies to corner the home mar-
ket and get much higher prices than prevail
to-day.
Holland has practically decided to refuse to
sell any stocks here if other plants are excluded
and indications point strongly toward similar
action on the part of Britain and France for our
unfriendly legislation. If they won't sell us
stocks (and we as yet cannot produce suitable
ones at home) are not our Rose and fruit pro-
pagators going to be in somewhat of a quandary?
oming down to bulbs absurdities become even .
more pronounced. Liliums and Lily-of-the-val-
ley, the latter purely a German product, are per-
mitted entry if no sand, soil or earth 1s about
them. Any practical grower knows that it 1s
utterly impossible to ship these and have them
APRIL, 1919
arrive without shriveling or rotting unless they
are packed in compost of some kind.
We are to be graciously permitted to receive
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, and Crocus, but
cannot hereafter get any Iris, Ixia, Snowdrops,
Chionodoxa, Scillas, Fritillarias, Begonias, Glad-
tolus, Gloxinias and many other useful bulbs.
The Federal Horticultural Board is unable to
give any good reason why the latter group is any
more likely to prove any more dangerous than
the former. The Board, however, endeavors to
cheer us up by showing pictures of bulb fields
the Dept. of Agriculture is experimenting with
in California; and to their glory be it said they
actually in 1917 and 1918 shipped one carload of
bulbs to Washington to help augment the marvel-
lous good being done by the free seed distribu-
tion, which has proved such a Godsend to im-
pecunious Congressmen!
Who is going to “very promptly produce”’ all
the lovély varieties of excluded bulbs? Some
we may get in California, but that state has not
proven of great value in the production of Hya-
cinths, Tulips, and Narcissus; and one large firm
there has decided to pull up stakes and try farther
north, in the Columbia River bottom lands. We
are only as yet experimenting with bulbs. Are
we able to produce a “Holland in America’’?
The Federal Horticultural Board knows per-
fectly well that an embargo on all plant importa-
tions won’t keep out pests and diseases. Nursery
stock is not responsible for the pink boll worm,
or the Hessian fly, or the gipsy moth, or the corn
root borer. The Government itself introduced
the White-pine blister-rust on its own importa-
tions, while the destructive Chestnut bark disease
is believed to have been carried by animals.
Emphasis is being laid by the Federal Horticul-
tural Board on the possibility of still importing
novelties in limited numbers through the Depart-
ment of Agriculture, but experience in the past
has already proven that plants, seeds, and scions
after being unpacked, dried, fumigated, and
cooked there are in most cases worthless, and there
is small likelihood of this channel of supply being
much utilized.
The whole situation seems most discouraging
and as though to add insult to injury a prominent
official from the Department of Agriculture said
in Boston on February 15th in reply to questions
which he could not answer that “Quarantine 37
is going into force on June 1 and will stay forever;”
that “forty resolutions passed would not make
any change”; and that “Orchids and other flow-
ers do not amount to a bagatelle.”” “‘Forever”
is a long time. And we think Dr. Galloway and
the members of the Federal Horticultural Board
will in the not distant future have abundant
cause to regret their arrogant attitude toward
the horticultural interests of America.
Faulkner Farm, Brookline, Mass. W. N. Craic.
A Constructive Suggestion
To the Editor of The Garden Magazine:
ROUGH my official position as Superinten-
= dent of Parks of one of the largest park
systems in the country, a position which I have
held now for fourteen years after serving ten
years in a similar capacity in another (Eastern)
city, I feel justified in claiming that I am repre-
senting, through my plea, thousands of people
who take great interest in this matter, but who
have no means of knowing what is going on or how
to present and defend their cause. I beg leave to
present the following suggestions:
1. That the Federal Horticultural Board be requested through
Congress to postpone the enforcement of Quarantine Order No. 37,
for at least one year, during which time the question can be thor-
oughly considered from all points of view and interests.
2. That the membership of the Federal Horticultural Board be
changed so that there shall be not less than two professional horti-
culturists of practical commercial experience in said Board of five
members.
3. That a questionnaire blank be drawn up, printed and distrib-
uted among all horticulturists all over the country, through
which a large amount of valuable and determining information will
be secured and be available for any final conclusions.
Minneapolis, Minn., THEODORE WIRTH.
7
1919
APRIL,
2- BLOOM
They Are Guaranteed to Bloom
or We Replace Them
This guarantee assures you a myr-
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Every star size Conard rose bears a
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We supply on request, until April
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locality.
Roses Are Scarce—Don’t Delay
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Let our new 52-page illustrated
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Catalogue shows wide variety and
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Hardy Ferns and Flowers
we For Dark, Shady Places
Plan NOW to plant your
yg Native ferns and flowers
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NS of choicest varieties
sent on request. It’s
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EDWARD GILLETT
3 Main Street, Southwick, Mass.
219 Water Street Troy, Ohio
ae
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Write and get particulars and prices.
THE CLOCHE COMPANY 205 WEST STREET
NEW YORK CLLy
Phone, 2749 Barclay
At DeKalb Nurseries I have an unusual col-
lection of Irises, both Japanese and German.
embracing many rare varieties and alluring
colors. Spring is a desirable time for trans-
planting. Let me send you my
NEW GENERAL CATALOGUE
which will introduce to you these Irises, and
4 many other perennials, as well as special plants |
Me for rockeries and ground covers, shrubs, ever- |
m, sreens and shade trees. Write to-day.
’
, OD DE KALB
fh Adolf Muller NURSERIES
Norristown,Penna._
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, toa
134 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE APRIL, 1919
THE SEED
MAKES THE PROFIT
Whether you plan your vegetable garden for home
use only or for business profit—choose your seeds
carefully and plant early.
Let Carters Tested Seeds be the build-
ers of your garden. They are the out-
growth of exhaustive testing and research
on the part of the House of Carter of Raynes
Park, London, England, whose fame for garden-making is
world wide. The Boston branch of this great house is at your
service with advice or experts to aid you.
Carters 1919 Catalogue CARTERS TESTED SEEDS, Inc.
“Garden and Lawn” 102-106 Chamber of Commerce Building, BOSTON, MASS.
Sent on request Branch of James Carter and Co., London, England
4 GRAND GLADIOLI, 35c
Peace—Best white dozen, $ .60
War—Brilliant red w 1.50
Pendleton—Beautiful pink <“ .80
Schwaben—Best yellow “ 1.00
One bulb of each, 35c 3 of each, $1.00
Post Prepaid, Catalogue Free
Ne steel too good, no skill too Brookland Gardens, Woburn, Mass.
expert, no care too great
to go into the making of the,
Seas PENNS ANIA
oO a aaa FREE LECTURES
Garden Clubs, Civic Associations, Schools, Churches:—write
for details concerning our illustrated lectures on ‘‘Your Home
More Fruitful,”’ “Your Home More Beautiful,” and ‘‘How to
Succeed With What You Plant.”
Nurserymen’s National Service Bureau
F. F. Rockwell, Manaager
220 West 42nd Street 5 New York City
Kunderd’s Wonderful
New Ruffled Gladioli
Gladioli are the most popular of all summer
flowering bulbs. Easy to grow, and very lasting
as cut flowers. Kunderd’s New Strains of both
Ruffled and Plain petaled are far the finest in
the world. No others are like them. None so
beautiful.
Our well illustrated catalogue of 52 pages de-
scribes almost 300 varieties, all are our own pro-
ductions, and most of them obtainable only from
us. Our catalogue is free; you ought to have a
copy, as it contains the most complete and relia-
ble cultural information ever published.
May we send you a copy? E
Address the originator of the Ruffled Gladioli =
A. E. KUNDERD
GOSHEN, INDIANA, U.S. A.
IA il IN
At all
=4 tiardware Dealers
i and Seedsmen
T
HN
Ii
As Others See It
Box Edgings.—Even in the old world they have
trouble with the Box when used as an edging.
It isn’t all easy going and according to the Garden
“is also nearly as bad as Privet for drying and
exhausting the adjacent soil.” Much as most
of us like Box we cannot shut our eyes to its short-
comings; and the climatic conditions in America
are naturally more trying to an Evergreen than
they are in England. Small wonder then that
every once in a while we have complaints about
Box dying out. Our English contemporary
makes other charges against it—‘‘it makes too
cozy a home for snails and other pests.” The
Box emits “a strong odor especially in hot sun-
shine so that used in a Rose garden it entirely
overwhelms the fragrance of the Roses.” ‘Though
few edgings of the kind look well when well kept,
they are on the whole, a mistake in most gardens;
difficult to plant, involve a great deal of labor,
and shearing, and many gardeners haven’t the
knack of doing the work well.” —Ed.
A Cure for ‘Damping Off.’—Among all the
gardeners who have ever raised plants under glass,
there are probably very few who have not learned
to know, fear, and hate the trouble known as
“damping off.” Just what causes it, why it de-
velops, and other technical details may not be
widely known, but its effect, like that of thou-
sands of tiny, invisible hands grasping the seed-
ling stems at the surface of the ground and strang-
ling them until they flop over and die, has long
been a familiar, dreaded sight in greenhouses
everywhere. An immense chorus of welcome
and gratitude should, therefore, greet the publica-
tion, in the Florists’ Exchange of February 22nd,
of'a method of preventing damping off, a method
which, on excellent authority, is said to be one
hundred per cent. efficient, and safe and simple
into the bargain. It consists merely of disin-
fecting the soil by wetting it thoroughly with a
solution of formaldehyde of a strength of one
fluid ounce to the quart of water, turning and
mixing it as if making concrete, then leaving it
to dry out before putting it in the flats, pots, or
seed pans. Since it has been found that the
damping off fungus often starts from the edge of
a receptacle and works inward through the soil,
it is advised that the containers and labels, unless
new, be soaked in a similar solution. It is also
advised that soil so treated and not needed im-
mediately, be kept in a tightly covered box where
“even a cat cannot walk over it,” so that new
germs and fungus spores will not be introduced
into the sterilized earth, which having been freed
of its former bacterial flora, provides an unex-
celled place for a new crop of organisms to get
astartin. Ifthe gardener uses sand to cover his
newly sown seeds, this, too, should be treated.
Two Vegetable “Novelties” to Look Out For.—
The Department of Agriculture is warning garden
makers to be on their guard against the latest
fake seed proposition, one or more of which us-
ually mark every planting season. The plants
concerned, to which advertisements accord the
most remarkable virtues are offered as the Gigan-
tic New Guinea Butter Bean, and the Guada
Bean respectively. As a matter of fact the for-
mer is really the Cucutza or sweet gourd, while
the latter is merely the Snake or Solomon Island
Gourd camouflaged under a new title. Both
lants are well known to old time gardeners as
Bees of edible gourds resembling summer
squashes, but neither has anything to justify its
preference over the different varieties of squash
already listed under their rightful names. Be-
cause of their relatively slight practical worth
(Continued on page 135)
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Aprit, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 135
(Continued from page 134)
they long since “went out.”’ There seems little
chance that the food situation will become serious
enough to warrant gardeners taking them up
again, especially at the prices now asked for the
“marvelous new butter beans”—namely, six
seeds for 50 cents, or 16 for a dollar!
The “Ideal”? Gooseberry.—The first step in the
production of improved forms of plant and ani-
mal life is the determination of a type that will
combine the desired characters. Such a type of
gooseberry has been decided upon by the Ohio
Experiment Station, and is described as having
“the habit of growth of the Carrie, the vigor of
the Red Jacket, the freedom from thorns of the
Carrie and Houghton and the size of the Downing
and Red Jacket.” Until our plant breeders pro-
duce such a form, it remains for us to choose the
one of the above four which meets our particular
needs. Briefly summarized, the salient features
of each are: Carrie—bushes of good size, vigor-
ous, with long slender branches loaded with fruit;
“berries about size of Houghton, solid red, of ex-
cellent flavor; not very susceptible to anthrac-
nose. Red Jacket—bushes of good size but low-
spreading manner of growth; fruit larger even
than Downing, green overcast with purple, acid
but good; thorns stout; productive, fairly late but
fairly free from anthracnose. Houghton—plants
of medium size, productive, vigorous, with long
slender branches and trailing habit; Thorns light;
berries small, light red with gray ash bloom; re-
latively free from anthracnose, heavy yielding P ‘© COULD not decide between a formal and an informal
and vigorous. Downing—plants of good size, ell \e plantinge—they both have such charm. But MOON’S
vigorous, short branched thorny; berries green ; came and showed me that with our location and style of
with white ribs and bloom, larger than Houghton; e ¢\\e) house the informal planting would be more in keeping.
more susceptible to anthracnose than Houghton.
Of the English types, the station recommends @ e |\e “That was years ago, and I have never regretted the decision.
Industry and Whitesmith for trial in American | | @ We have reaped the reward many times over in its beauty
serie. The eae ae 5 pene large, and gracious restfulness.
air vigorous, roductive usn; earin arge, Fe bi 2
eee ere bea, purple fruit; ence an ot a ( “This Shrubbery is more beautiful than when first planted,
mild but very good flavor. Whitesmith develops AC\ and when the colorful pageant of flowering bush and tree has
large, vigorous, productive bushes, with large, NJ passed the varying hues of Evergreens remain to cheer us
san mE, page and ele fruits, apes through the winter.” -
“the best of the English varieties.” e
er AGRE x the Cae, habit of growing MOoON’s Hardy Trees, Shrubs and Plants for Every Place
English gooseberries between orchard trees for and Purpose have a hardihood and richness of growth
the sake of the partial shade, and suggests that unexcelled anywhere. They are the result of forty-seven
this may be a desirable practice here also. ; years of nursery experience.
Why not write them of your problem today? You will find
their catalog interesting and illuminating. Request it in
your letter.
To Insure Next Summer’s Fruit.—Most people
probably recall last autumn as a season of ex-
ceptionally beautiful weather with clear, bright
days, warm sunshine, and soft Indian summer
air. They may not remember, however, that it THE WM. H. MOON COMPANY
was distinctly dry, but such was the case, and now
some of us are beginning to note some of the ef- Nurserymen
fects thereof. Of especial interest from the fruit MORRISVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA
, See
grower’s standpoint, is a report from several sec- On the Lincoln Highway—Midway between New York and Philadelphia
tions, notably southern Ohio, that the fruit buds
of apple trees did not develop sufficiently last fall
because of the drought. However it is not too
late to stimulate increased development between
now and harvest time, so that the yield need not
be really disappointing. To do this, advises the DAHLIAS iy ip JONES’ NUT TREES
_ extension horticulturist of the Ohio Experiment
Station, give a little extra fertilizer of good qual- UE ee) :
i ; f T. ‘EW RY) and Eastern United States. All are
ity, and prune very carefully. Best results, he Why IN ot Grow Some of These eli Penneyivania-grown, grafted trees! there:
says, especially on thin soils, are obtained from Beautiful Flowers in Your h V3 j fore the safest for the sections named.
applications of nitrate of soda made about when
are adapted to planting in the Northern
FIRS Garden This Year ? '
the buds are showing pink. From two pounds, — Pecans,
for a tree just coming into bearing, to 5 pounds My new catalogue gives a true description of Black, and English Walnuts
for an old specimen, is the range of dose recom- the wonderful new prize winning sorts as well A nut grove will be a profitable
mended. Not only does this tonic make the pre- as the standard varieties. Send for it to-day. inves ten a a ve: around
sent buds more resistant to frost, assist in holding ee OCIS LLING fold teheceerimlon'thent ae
the Ss eens ae hes sonerally im- os he Gospel Send to-day for my illustrated catalogue. |
prove the quality of the fruit, but also it encour- ahlia Specialist J. F. JONES, Nut Tree Specialist
ages, later on, a better development of next year’s 251 Court Street West Haven, Conn, ais INIT Lanes Pat
fruit buds.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in wriling—and we will, too
136 THE ‘GARDEN MAGAZINE APRIL, 1919
WA 3 r IW) D
<) SX)
~ WDWeLue’s Golden Giant Sweet Corn = Experiences Among the Vegetables
ays Gs
SRL N2N2S2B M2, S222, 2, S22, 2, SAS, SP, VP, SP, VP, VP, SP 0, 0, VP SPR, 2 Corn and Potatoes as Companion Crops.—
AS AS ays AS DBS TS GS GBS AS TS AS AS TS AS DS DS HS AS BS HS AS AS DS HS HS AS CHS HS DS ays as ASAS | Ty ‘the January G ARDEN Macazine Mr. Blank
GS As claims that no companion crop is possible with
SS ota ene! Se late potatoes. We combine our main plantings
SW, N B ! SM of corn and potatoes and get a full crop from each.
a gy We plant our “late” potatoes early, having
Gs The Massachusetts Horticultural Society, one of the most important and conservative org aniza- as found from our own experience, and from ob-
SS lions of ils kind extant, has afler an ominous silence of more than 67 years finally made a SS servation of our neighbors’ gardens, that potatoes
« SS corn award. Dr. Frederick S. DeLue, the noted Boston oculist, is the happy recipient of the Se which are planted early have a much better root
SS silver medal and high honor. Dr. DeLue’s studies in plant life are known to j SZ pee ane better alle i? oneiue ine diouene of
HS 8 a) ie TEC ER PTOMN- SONS. midsummer and to withstand blight and insect
SS nent members of the medical profession, but such signal distinction came in the naturt of a sur- oS pests. Our potatoes are planted as soon after
Me prise.. “The Golden Giant” is the title of nature’s new master of the fields. According to We the first of April as it is possible to work the
as a ale fll) d three f
M2 the ethics and judgment of the famous society and all who have tried it, the product is a match- XB oat ° 1 ne ie aad spaced three teet apart.
S s
R less one. Itis a luscious sweet corn, maluring much earlier than any other known corn; ae orn is planted the last of May in the three foot
ase j a (io we pe . x space between potatoes. They make ideal part-
aw richer by far in proteins sugar and starches and other nourishing qualities with round golden RV ners because their habits of growth are different
ir) SQ >
a ears nearly double the size of the average similar grade. All seed hand selected. Illustrated ae the corn continuing to occupy the ground after the
es circular of instructions. Price, % oz., 35 cts.; 1 oz. 50 cts.; 1 pint=12 ozs., $5.00; I quart, ae potato tops have withered. We tried to still
6 e > 2
as $10.00. Send check or money order.’ No stamps. As there are already several imitations on as further Teele ud ey A eal pun
Wp ; A °
GS the market, it is suggested that you order from Dr. Frederick S. DeLue’s Experimental Farm. Gs cilutoa Tape ema dace yet gerne se ee SSL IEINE
a, SD, growth of vines interfered with digging the po-
oS Gs tatoes in September. We see no reason wh
SB HPeedham, Massachusetts SS tomatoes ee to tall stakes could not be ee
Wp We between the rows of potatoes. Mr. Blank further
as ys
Wwe Wav sh, 0, MM Mh SPM, MP, WP, SB, ND, MPP, M2, MP, MP, MP, Mo, NM, MD, WP, WP, WP, 0,0, | Says that it does not pay to plant potatoes when
ISAS HSCS ASCOT AS AHTAHS AHS AS AS AH AS AHS AS ADS AHS AS HS AS AAS AS DS ADS DS HDS AS GSAS > they must be cared for and harvested by hand.
as More than Fifteen Years of Analytical study, research and experiments were required to pro- as It devens upon the cae yeu seve in pace If
ae duce this wonderful corn.. It has won the farmer's welcome. ZS ih eid Asti Napmorsmiag acre ee CLOTS
: : —— will pay better, but if you are aiming to supply
= STOTT MA poo CT your family’s needs from the home garden, ayes
E ROCK PI ANTS DAHLIAS pay you to grow potatoes, unless your plot is
: EXCEPTIONAL OFFER smaller than sixty feet square. Even then we
: ' Pe eS a) oe a tee : would include one or two rows of extra-early
ergain 1 ahlias. 1 st Vv = a = ©
Prim ulas, ties at fsilowine low, BulteaMrcteone (Gilsias, CERIN Lbeledvao tweet con , potatoes, which you may begin to dig by the first
Saxifrages,
and other Alpines
Specializing, as we do, on the newest and
choicest varieties of these hardy plants, we
feel competent, through years of experience,
to. offer the discriminating lover of garden-
ing a really fine collection of Alpines.
This list, we are sure, will more than de-
light the veriest connoisseur.
We shall be glad to send you our modest
catalogue upon request.
WOLCOTT NURSERIES
Choice and Rare Hardy Plants
JACKSON, MICH. |
en ba MMMM MTT
MMMM MMMM MTOM OMT TT TUM
THE ‘*PENNFIELD-SPRING
LEVER’? CULTIVATOR
Does not crush the wheel into the ground, nor tire the wrists,
but the power from the momentum of the body is utilized
with the hand and forearm in a
natural powerful grip
leverage, operating easily
at an even gait, by man
or woman. Complete
set of adjustable
steel hoes ($4 inch
hook and “*V”
shap
and
Pat'd Oct.
39, 1917
Pat’d July
'Io, 1912
Manufactured by
The J. M. Hartman Company, Box 322 B, Lebanon, Pa.
5 tubers $1.00; 10 tubers $1.50; 20 tubers $2.50
A. E. WILSON McLeansboro, Hi.
NEW GRAPE—The Hubbard
Superior quality with distinct flavor that is refreshing.
Sweet, few seeds, skin thin, bunch and berries large.
2-year old vines $1.50 each;
4 10 for $12, postpaid.
Supply of roots limited. Order early.
HUBBARD is the best new, black grape we have tested.
Circular free. Write to-day for full information.
T. S. Hubbard Company, Box 18, Fredonia, N. Y.
GROWN IN NEW JERSEY
under soil and climate advantages, Steele’s
Sturdy Stock is the satisfactory kind.
Great assortment of Fruit, Shade, and Evergreen
Trees, Small-fruit Plants, Hardy Shrubs, Roses,
etc. Fully described in our Beautiful Illustrated
Descriptive Catalogue—it’s free!
==; STEELE’S NURSERIES, Palmyra, N. J.
ANDORRA-GROWN
TREES
Shrubs and
Plants
OUR Spring offering is six
hundred acres of well-
grown trees, shrubs and
plants. 100-page price list
on request.
Andorra
Nurseries
Wm. Warner Harper, Prop.
Box 100
Chestnut Hill
Phila., Penna.
‘of July, when new potatoes are something of a
luxury. The quality of one’s soil has much to do
with the variety to be planted. We have known
enormous crops to be raised from Gold Coin in
one locality, while in another it was a complete
failure. Better find out what variety does well
in your immediate neighborhood before planting.
Irish Cobbler does well in heavy soil, and we had
wonderful results last year from the old Beauty
of Hebron.— Anna M. Burke, Mass.
“Mixed” Cucumbers and Melons.—Mr. H.
M., Ontario, claims to have had the experience
of “mixed” cucumber and melon fruits grown
on the same acreage. I have never had the oc-
casion to complain of this trouble as squash,
cucumber, or melon have invariably been grown
at a considerable distance apart in my garden.
However, I have noted such an occurrence in some
garden plots of the acreage size, as mentioned by
brother H. M. I have seen cucumbers that grew
unusually long, were yellowish green on the out-
side and had a marked resemblance to the crook-
neck squash in flavor; but still they were cucum-
bers with the above-mentioned exceptions. The
“crossing” is caused no doubt by the work of
bees among the blossoms.—d. W. B., Mass.
A Seed-sowing Help—It has always been
a dificult problem in my little home garden to
sow small seeds like turnip, kohl-rabi and radish
so that they would not be too thick in the rows.
An old gardener once told me to take a spoonful
of turnip seed, mix it with a peck of sand, and sow
the mixture, but this last season I have found a
better way. Take a small can or little glass jar
which has a metal top, like the cans in which
spices or sal-hepatica come, and with a small nail
punch a half dozen holes in the top, driving the
nail from the inside, and being very careful not
to make the openings too large. ‘Then put the
seeds in the can, screw on the top, and the seeds
can be scattered evenly in the rows. An ordinary
salt shaker can be used.—F. Tarbell, Mass.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, loo
Aprit, 1919 | THE GARDEN MAGAZINE PAST
UUM IIA
A Rose Border by Evolution
FOR some time we had longingly anticipated
having a rose-bordered path, but from year
to year we had postponed its achievement as a
luxury involving quite an expenditure of labor
(for we are our own gardeners) and not a little
expense, that is, if it materialized as we pic-
tured it in our mind’s eye full-blown, “a thing
of beauty.” But within a few years we have
brought about its successful realization, and
now, once started, it promises to be indeed “a
joy forever.” The path is a long one and we
determined *to achieve our object by slow
degrees. So, attempting but one side the
first year, we marked off spaces where 15 ft.
square holes should be dug in the edge of the
lawn so as to leave six inches of turf betweer
their outer edge and the path, and the same
space of green between the squares to set off
our plantings. This idea we liked better
than the continuous border. Only half
of these were attempted the first year, taking
the alternate ones, where excavations I3ft.
square and about 2 ft. deep were made. In
digging we came upon a prehistoric brick
gardenwalk, and this material, broken up
and supplemented by stones, was just the
thing for a drainage-layer at the bottom.
Upon this we placed inverted sods and turf,
and filled the remaining space with garden
soil, compost, and a little old manure. Al-
though it had been our original intention to
use older plants whenever we should make
our Rose border, in order to obtain immediate
effect, we decided to follow our usual custom
(thereby consistently carrying out the scheme
of evolution in our border), of buying small,
one-year size plants. We chose the Hybrid
Perpetuals for our permanent planting with
a view to securing a gorgeous riot of color
(eventually), rather than to carry out any
particular scheme, nevertheless we took
care to plan the arrangement of them so
that there should be gradations of shade and
color, thereby avoiding conflicts among
neighbors. We set one bush in the centre of
each space, rounding the surface well to
allow for settling and provide for drainage.
As we could not expect any bloom from these
till the following year, we depended upon our
stock of Teas and Hybrid Teas—wintered
in the cellar each season for bedding out—
using one in each corner of every square.
These gave us lavish bloom that first summer,
and by presenting a gorgeous front both on
the side of the lawn and of the path, saved our
puene border from a Boe and somewhat Reape teen cere > hf
iscouraging appearance. course, all the a ——— T d TRIPLEX
attention eres upon these went to benefit igh op a oe o- Care waa, ownsen
ers infringing
GETTING A SIX WEEKS START
ON NATURE
OUP greenhouse not only provides you with your
favorite flowers and fruits all through the year, but
also serves a most useful purpose in enabling you to get more
out of your garden and to get it earlier in the season. Instead
of planting the seeds in the garden when the weather permits,
you can plant them in your greenhouse, and when good
weather arrives your plants will be well under way and
ready to set out.
And your greenhouse need not be an elaborate or expensive one.
We build them in all sizes, from the largest to the smallest; but
they all have the same LUTTON quality. Their scientific
construction reduces the cost of maintenance to practically
nothing, and insures perfect control of heating and ventilation.
Write to us, or come in and see us about your particular problem,
whether it concerns greenhouses or simply garden frames. Our advice
will cost you nothing and we may be able to help you.
WILLIAM H. LUTTON COMPANY
Architects and Builders of Modern V- Bar Greenhouses and Conservatories
eee LETH AVENUE *= NEW YORK
Factory: Jersey City, N. J.
lM 0000
NI ILO LT ic
the Perpetuals also, so that all were regularly Townsend Patent No. 2 Ai al CUTS A SWATH 86 INCHES WIDE
cultivated and nourished. The permanent ee Dec. 10, : || | } Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, the
bushes were mulched and earthed up after - bi TRIPLEX will mow more lawn in a day than the
the removal of the others for the winter. - SE . best motor mower ever
[he next season our Perpetuals throve so 3 am 7, <<. PTE ae cut ie paris and at
well that they did not need any reinforcing, : _ aay y: ; Ona Bee ie CLO OLE CACOSE:
and we devoted our attention to the alternate = Ae — Me Zin PS a mow more lawn than any
G aa/ a Ab : = I. three ordinary horse-drawn mowers
‘ae payee” Be folle them as we had E — = Pie’; L=—— t with three horses and three men.
the former lot. By following this plan one can a nt : =), . Write for catalogue illustrating all
begin or continue a border any time during a eS Bie i types of Lawn Mowers
the spring and summer, as the pot-grown : S. P. TOWNSEND & CO.
plants may be obtained throughout the a P- a a3! Cantral Avenue cOranee Real
season.—Charlotte Brassey-Brierley, Belfast, Me. i PTE
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Have a distinctive type of construction which permits of great strength with-
out the necessity of heavy shadow-casting supports, and lends itself to the
graceful curves and sweeping lines so necessary to architectural beauty.
Let our experts help you plan your Greenhouse.
estimates without charge or obligation.
We will submit plans and
KING CONSTRUCTION CO.
424 King’s Road, North Tonawanda, N. Y.
an
10 E. 43rd St., New York City
”
“FAIRFAX SEED”
Get my free book which is a practical guide to
everyone who wants to have a successful garden.
It gives real, practical information how to grow
bumper crops of the choicest vegetables from our
seeds which are fresh, clean and have been tested.
We do not carry seeds over from season to season.
$50.00 IN GOLD
Will be given in prizes for the finest specimen of vegetables
grown from Fairfax proven tested seeds.
Special complete assortment for a 50 foot garden containing
20 full size packets vegetable seeds for $1.50.
We will mail you free upon request this practical Guide to
successful gardening.
W.R. GRAY Box 6 Oakton, Va.
Ask me to lecture
IM
before your Club or in your home, at a
“Garden Party” (indoors or outdoors)
on any of the following topics: Enjoy
Your Gardening, The Troubles in the
Flower Garden, Hardy Gardens,
Dahlias, The Human Side of Plants,
The Rose Garden, Gladioli, Iris and
Peonies, The Vegetable Garden (5
lectures), The Best Shrubs and Trees
for the House and Garden, The Lawn,
Questions and Answers. I have given
these talks before Garden Clubs and
Women’s Clubs and private homes,
throughout the country. Accompanied
by practical demonstrations. Call a
Garden Party of friends and neighbors
to plan together and solve garden
problems.
Write to me to-day for rates and dates!
MAURICE FULD
7 West 45th Street siyyor
NEW YORK
SCHOOL OF HORTICULTURE
FOR WOMEN
Ambler, Pennsylvania
18 miles from Philadelphia
Vegetable and flower gardens, greenhouses, orchards,
ornamental trees and shrubs, demonstration kitchen,
apiary, poultry plant, live stock. Lectures and out-
door practice. Two-year diploma course.
A. Spring Course, 12 weeks, April 7th to June 28th.
ie Summer Course During August.
Increasing demand for trained women. Visitors
welcome. Catalogue.
ELIZABETH LEIGHTON LEE,
Director.
DAHLIAS
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE FREE
GEORGE H. WALKER |
No. Dighton Massachusetts
CGALoway
POTTERY
Will give the
ESSENTIAL TOUCH
The Bird Bath illustrated
will be the Delight of any
Garden. Madein our light
stony gray Terra Cotta, it
stands 36 in. high with a bowl 24 in. This
piece is specially priced at $27.50.
Flower Pots, Vases, Boxes, Bird Baths, Fountains, Sun
Dials, Gazing Globes, Benches, etc., are included in
our Catalogue, which will be sent upon request.
GALLOWAY TERRA COITA ©,
3214 WALNUT ST. PHILADELPHIA
APRIL,
Temporary Trellises for Peas
(he peas, except the extreme dwarfs, which
are planted more as interesting experi-
ments than for their yield, should have sup-
port. There are three good reasons for this
—the benefit of the crop, convenience in
picking, and the appearance of the garden.
Brush, on which the old-fashioned gardener
depended, does fairly well, but it is frequently
dificult, and sometimes impossible, for the back-
yard gardener toobtain. One pretty good make-
shift 1s to drive a stake about every five feet
along the row and run horizontal lines of jute
twine about six or eight inches apart to the re-
quired height. Nothing does the work better than
a permanent trellis of wire netting, but it is in the
way after the peas have been harvested, and the
vines removed, and generally interferes with the
adaptability of garden planning and the shifting
of the planting from year to year to effect, on a
small scale, some sort of rotation.
This then brings us to a demand for a tempor-
ary trellis that will serve the purpose as well as a
permanent one, will have a neat appearance, and
can be removed when it is not needed. ‘This is
readily made of four strips, an inch or an inch
and a quarter square, put together with corner-
irons, placed inside the corners of the frame. See
that the screw-holes are reamed for inside corners.
After the frame is made it is covered with wire
netting. Poultry netting will do, but a light
wire fencing with meshes three or four inches
square is better as the pea vines are more easily
removed from it. For trellises seven by three
feet, inch square strips with four inch corner irons
are sufficient, but for larger trellises—eight by
four feet or taller—inch and a quarter strips with
six inch corner irons are better. For convenience
in handling eight feet is about as long as the trel-
lises should be made, and it is well to adapt them
so that two or three or more will equal the Jength
of your established garden rows. Cypress or
poplar is the best wood to use as it is light to
handle and stands the weather well, and if it is
undressed it will readily take a creosote shingle
stain which may be obtained in any color desired.
After the peas, planted in two lines six or eight
inches apart, have shown distinctly above ground,
but before there is much root growth to be dis-
turbed, drive a stake—an old broomstick is ex- |
cellent for the purpose—between the lines at the
end of the row. Set the trellis up against it and
tie it firmly top and bottom. Drive another
stake at the other end of the trellis, set up another
trellis and tie the two top and bottom to the stake,
and so on to the end of the row. After the peas
are gathered, the vines may be pulled off the trel-
lis, the stakes drawn, and the trellis stored away
for future use, and the row is clear for the immedi-
ate planting of a succession crop. Stacked up-
right flat against a wall a good many of these trel-
lises can be carried between seasons in a compar-
atively small space, and with this kind of care
they will last for years.—Hortulus.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
APRIL, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Ree
Va
Primulinus Hybrids
\ The most beautiful of the new
4 GLADIOLI
Ki.
$5.00 per Hundred — 25 at the Hundred rate
# Our Booklet gives valuable cultural di- [¢
rections and garden suggestions.
Free upon request
B. Hammond Tracy, Inc.
Box 27
ak Sa ee
guy a Wenham,Mass.
The Glen Road Iris Gardens
Grace Sturtevant, Prop.
Massachusetts
Wellesley Farms,
GROWERS AND ORIGINATORS OF FINE VARI-
ETIES OF BEARDED IRIS
There are Rosedale Roses for every place
and purpose: Hardy Hybrid Perpetuals,
Rugosa, Moss, Wichuraiana and Tree
Roses, Other Rosedale specialties are:
Evergreens Shrubbery
We have repeatedly served some of the
finest estates in the Country. Yet our
“Prices Are as Low as Consistent with
Highest Quality.”
Write at once for 1919 Catalogue
=
Rosedale Nurseries
S. G. HARRIS, Proprietor
Box A Tarrytown, N. Y.
Sa MINA BOT
A book for now and the future
Ambassador
Morgenthau’s
Story
By Our Former Ambassador to Turkey
nnn
IHL
a)
HIS is the startling, authentic account
of the early years of the war in the
near East. Germany’s intrigue and trick-
ery to win over Turkey, Bulgaria and Aus-
tria are clearly shown. It shows how the
war was hatched at Potsdam, and much
light on present momentous events is shed.
““A true story, this, and more
important in the larger historical
account than anything heretofore
printed covering the same topical
ground.’’
—Philadelphia North American.
Buy This Book of Your Bookseller
Net, $2.00
Five Large Editions Printed
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO.
Pipe R ose d ale R oses ™ |
139
DREER'S I9IY
GARDEN BOOK
Considered
By Thousands of Gardeners
both amateur and professional, the most
dependable guide published on the
Successful Growing of
Flowers and Vegetables
It gives clear, concise cultural directions—
much of it by experts who specialize on the par-
ticular Flower or Vegetable they tell you how
to grow. .
224 big pages, 4 color plates and over a
thousand photographic illustrations of practi-
cally everything worth growing in
Vegetables and Flowers—new cre-
ations as well as the old stand bys.
Mailed free to any one mentioning
this publication.
HENRY A.DREER
714-716 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, Pa.
SMITH
No. 22
BANNER
GUARANTEED
form, and is easily operated by man or boy.
Heavy 4 gallon galvanized steel tank, well |
riveted to stand heavy pressure. Also made /
entirely of brass. Tank 21 in, high, 7 in. di-
ameter. Automatic brass nozzle, throws long
distance fine mist or coarse spray, will not
clog and wastes no liquids. Pump is brass 2
in. diameter, with heavy brass casting. Han-
dle locks in pump head for carrying sprayer.
Adjustable strap for carrying sprayer over |
shoulder.
At your Hardware or Seed Store. Ask for the
BANNER Sprayer. Don’t take a substitute.
If he hasn’t it, write us. Manufactured only
by
D. B. SMITH & CO., UTICA, N.Y.,U.S.A.
New York City Agents, J. M. THORBURN & CO., Seedsmen, 53 Barclay St.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
COMPRESSED
AIR SPRAYER
This Sprayer is adapted for all Spraying purposes. It cannot be excelled for spraying
garden vegetables, plants, shrubbery, trees, etc., in fact, will spray anything in liquid -
APRIL, 1919
140 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Egegplants as They Ought to Be
rown
‘Ts crop in our New York State home
gardens should be given a little mare
consideration. I think it unfair to hoard a little
useful information which covers a wide range
of successful experience with this particular
crop. Eggplants are a long season crop and
very sensitive to frost, as this is really a
subtropical plant, a little harder to grow than
the average garden crop but the novice is well
rewarded if he follows the following directions.
To grow this crop in New York State it is
necessary to get young plants started either in
the greenhouse or hotbed about March first
or not later than the fifteenth. They require
a little more care than peppers or tomatoes,
as the seeds are slow germinators, and require
a temperature of at least 70 degrees.
Sow your seed in
flats, using soil that
has been composted
or fairly good garden
soil; screen with ¢
inch mesh, use a half
inch to inch of rot
ted, screened man-
ure in bottom of
flat, do not cover
very deep, keep seed
fairly moist. They
do best when trans-
planted and spaced
2X2 inches in flats,
using a little rotted
manure in flats.
Young eggplants
usually suffer from
flea beetlesand plant
lice during the seed-
ling stage. I would
suggest a solution of
one part to 500 of
black leaf forty,
sprayed every week
till plants go to field, then treat same as potato
- Where Water Lilies Bloom
*. Garden Visitors Gather
ee A pool of blooming Lilies is the garden’ s focal
= point. Other plants may arouse a moment’s interest, but
the Water Lily’s dainty blooms never lose their charm.
And, best of all, you can grow them just as
successfully in a tub or pool as in a large pond. All you
need is water, sunshine, and a little soil. The plants may
be few in number, but the pleasure they will give is not
® to be measured by mere quantity.
Let me tell you how and where
to grow these Beautiful Blooms
I will be glad to advise you how to start,
_ and the varieties that are best adapted for general
planting and free blooming. ‘Tell me, please, whether
you must use a tub or pool; if the latter, give size and the
source of water supply.
My booklet on Water Lilies and Water Plants
will be sent to those who ask for it; the edition is limited,
so it may be well to write at once.
WILLIAM TRICKER, Box E, Arlington, New Jersey
SUNDIALS
Real Bronze Colonial Desizns
From $3.50 Up
Also Bird Baths, Garden Benches, Fountain
Sprays and other garden requisites.
Marifactured by
The M. D. JONES CO.
Concord, Mass.
Send for illustrated Price-List
Garden Pottery and Furniture
of unusual attractiveness including bird baths, benches,
ornamental flower pots and boxes and sundials made
in the Italian old Ivory Tint to harmonize with any
surroundings, and guaranteed weatherproof. WVe will
deliver free of charge on all purchases of $5.00 or
over anywhere in the United States. Send at once for
our illustrated catalogue so as to have it when you make
your Spring plans for the garden and grounds,
WHEATLEY POTTERY COMPANY
Established 1879
2426 Reading Road
Japanese Gardening
Gardens and rockeries planned and
developed in perfect harmony, in
surprisingly short time. Suitably
% adapted to most of U.S. and Can-
Cincinnati, O. ada. My specialty for thirty years.
Gardens area necessary part of world
Retail Shops are inviled to write for our ilems.
Choice New Hardy Water Lilies
Nymphaea_ Escarboucle: N. Mrs: Richmond:
Most brilliant red of all. Glowing violet rose-pink,
Each $6.00. shading white at ie outer
N. Somptuosa: Very edge. exquisite beauty.
doubie, pink, crimson centre. Each $10.00.
Each $6.00.
N. Conqueror: Large
violet-rose. Each $5.00.
N. Virginalis: The larg-
est and finest white of. this
- class ever introduced: Flow-
N. Masaniello: Pink dot- ers 8 or 10 inches across.
ted with carmine. Each $5.00. Each $20.00.
I have the largest and most complete collection of aquatics
in the West. Have had 47 years’ experience (East and West)
with water lilies and lotus.
Price List sent on application.
EDMUND D. STURTEVANT
5406 Franklin Ave.
Hollywood, Los Angeles, Cal.
reconstruction.
T.R. OTSUKA
Are You a Lover of Flowers?
Try DAHLIAS
Let me send you ten distinct,
named yarieties, all properly la-
belled and guaranteed for
$1.00 postpaid
Send for my free
Illustrated Catalogue
The Dahlia King
It will afford you a chance to get posted on
Dahlias before planting time knocks at the door.
You can’t afford te be without some of my favorites
in your 1919 garden.
J. K. ALEXANDER, “‘The Dahlia King’’
27-29 Central St., East Bridgewater, Mass.
By PETER B. KYNE
The Valley of the Giants
A tale of big lumbering and love.
of these subjects Kyne is master.
Of both
Net, $1.50.
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
300 South Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill.
crop, as the potato beetle usually makes its
appearance at that time, using arsenate of
lead or paris green. The former is better—5
Ibs. to 50 gals. of water.
When all danger of frost is past about June
first set plants in field for horse cultivation
from 30 to 36 inches between rows and from
18 to 24 inches apart in rows, especially for
the New York Improved variety, which I
think from past experience is better than the
Black Beauty as there are less spines or
thorns on the stem, and commercially wee
pack better in crates.
This is probably the easiest vegetable to’
prepare for the table. One medium sized
fruit will substitute meat for four adults at
least for one meal. Fried in bread crumbs
and using Crisco or butter, their quality
makes me think of the darky in our town,
who says, every time I deliver these to
the stores, “Um! Um man, I ate one
yesterday un they shu am good.”
New York, M. SPIEGEL.
Hear! The Garden Magazine Again.—
The monthly arrival of THe Garpen Maca-
ZINE is an event with us. My wife and I
look it over together, and then I take it for
a good long study. It’s all good! Ideas
and plans too big for us, or too small, inspire,
or awaken sympathetic interest; set our minds
in motion, and the suggestive value of all
that is published is valuable and delightful
to us.—C. B. B., Pennsylvania.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will. too
Ais ora hi THE GARDEN MAGAZINE , 141
ng alia et , :
il
2
|
: ‘ iN ey
PlanYour Hardy Garden NOW
‘Before the Spring Rush Starts
We shall be glad to give your problem our personal at-
tention through our staff of experts, whether you plan a
little plot in your backyard or contemplate laying out an
extensive estate.
“PALISADES POPULAR PERENNIALS”
Over a Thousand Different Kinds to Select From
Whatever is worth growing in hardy plants, grows in our
nurseries. We believe ours to be as complete and as large a
stock of hardy plants as can be found in this country.
Whether you want a few specimen plants of a rare species,
or thousands of one and the same kind for planting in masses,
we can serve you. During the growing seasons, our nur-
series are always open to visitors who are welcome to make
personal selections. Write and enclose 10c for our catalogue
TO-DAY.
— PALISADES NURSERIES, Inc., Sparkill, New York
sail
“As the Twig
is bent—”’
It’s an old adage and a true one. Beau-
tiful flowers and hardy plants can only
be obtained by proper cultivation and
training.
Many plant supports have been put on
the market to do this training but they
were all ungainly and unsatisfactory in
many respects. At the same time they
were only temporary equipment.
Adjusto Plant Supports
are the most practical plant support ever offered
for sale. They are simple in construction, contain-
ing no screws or nails, and adjustable to any
height. The stake is of the hardest wood and the
hoop of the strongest wire, both painted green.
There’s no wearout to them and as a permanent
equipment are very reasonable in price. We guar-
antee them to give perfect satisfaction. If your
dealer does not have them in stock write us.
If you want the finest
DAHLIAS
send for our catalogue
SOMERHOUSEN DAHLIA GARDENS
Chestnut Hill Philadelphia, Pa.
Cabbage Plants 5&3:
Frostproof cabbage plants—Early Jersey Wakefield,
Charleston Wakefield, Succession and Flat Dutch, at
$1.50 per 1000, express coilect; 35c per 100, by parcel
post, postage pre paid.
C. J. & C. WHALEY
Martin’s Point P. O., S. C.
ee
“There have been no war stories like the two at THE FORREST SEED CO., Inc. il |
the end of this book,” writes an old Kipling lover i Box 40, Cortland, N. Y
about “A Diversity of Creatures,” a new Kipling | HT TEAM RPGS
book. Have you read them yet? i iil |
i
Doubleday, Page & Co. ; Garden City, New York
**Reading Selma Lagerlof is like sitting in
the dusk of a Spanish cathedral—certatnly HEDGES
A neat, attractive hedge adds many dollars to the appear-
one has been on holy g round.” ; ance and value of the home. We offer ten kinds to select
—Hugo Alfvén, the Swedish composer from; just the right one for your purpose. Plan to plant
THE NORTHLAND EDITION: ter of her this spring. Write NOW for descriptive list and prices.
greatest works in limp leather binding now
ready. (Each, net, $2.00.) Send fon booklet. CLARENCE B. FARGO
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY Desk K, Frenchtown New Jersey
Paper Pots and Dirt Bands
Vegetables four to five weeks ahead of the ordinary method.
No transplanting required. Every seed means a plant if you
use the Pots or Bands.
No cut worms can get at your plants.
__ Write for sample. Address
, MODERN MFG. CO.,
P. O. Box 2854, 543 N. Lawrence St., Phila., Pa.
Moss Aztec Pottery
Offers a wide choice of objects, from simple fern dishes and
bud vases to impressive jardinieres and plant stands. Its
predominating characteristic is refined elegance in designs and
colors. A post card request will bring you the ‘Moss Aztec”
catalogue and name of nearest dealer.
DISTINCTIVE FERN PAN $1.50
is square with
separate liners
measuring 7x7
inches by 4 inches
deep. Order as
No. 495.
PETERS & REED
FOR GARDEN CAMPBELL OSCILLATING’? IRRIGATOR
TTACHED to hose with ordinary water pressure, you
can automatically and Fauililessly irrigate an area as
wide as length of machine and up to 30 ft. long, on either Automatic
or both sides. Only device of its type—indispensable for
your lawn or garden. Light and portable. Expressed any- Dependable
where on receipt of price. Money back if not satisfactory. Economical
5 ft., $10.00; 10 ft., 1318, 00; 15 ft., $25.00, F.O.B. Factory.
POTTERY
COMPANY CAMPBELL IRRIGATION CO., Woodbury, N. J. || Portable
So. Zanesville, O. i : Write for bulletins describing our complete line of Modern Irrigation Devices
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too e
142
Resplendent
Evergreens
Their Beauty
Never Fails
N early April or in
August, in Novem-
ber orin January, Ever-
ee
Austrian Pine
greens grace thehome grounds One of the finest species
= : é +, of Evergreens, attain-
with their beauty and their cists Gene oF a6 feet.
pleasing depths of color. How Does wonderfully as an
welcome they are in!barren individual specimen.
winter months, when with Admired, for its con-
ne se I stant and intense color.
their sturdy greenery they Plants 2 to 3 feet tall,
delight the hungry eye. Ever- $2 cach; 3 to 4 feet, $3
greens are so constant? cage
Hybri
Ey ergreens are Har dy— ybrid Bie oneris
~ and Pyramid Boxwoo
They Thrive Everywhere A shipment, has just
Evergreens
been received by us of
are adaptable; the finest plants we
you can succeed with them nave aeNct seen: Re-
under average soil conditions, Plant Embargo Act will
in a climate either temperate prevent their importa-
or cold. We have varieties tion after next June.
to meet all your needs, from Se eee ea
tall trees for your wind break have the chance. Rho-
to others valued chiefly for dodendron (Named Va-
. s : rieties), 18 to 24 inches
ee beauty and massing Riehieolicolerchotaalve
forten. Pyramid Box-
. wood, 3-foot specimens,
Do Not Delay Planting $4.25 each; $40 for ten.
Give your trees a fair chance to get started before the grow-
ing season sets in by planting early. Order at once—ask for
our catalogue. Ten pages of it are crowded with important,
authoritative facts about Evergreens. Ask also for our
special pamphlet on Evergreens, which will be mailed free to
readers of this magazine. ”
AMERICAN NURSERY CO., Inc. -
FLUSHING, L. I. _NEW_YORK
GARDEN ‘‘MOVIES’’
Garden Clubs, Civic Associations, Schools, Churches:—write
for details concerning our free educational moving pictures on
“*How to Plant.”
Nurserymen’s National Service Bureau
F. F. Rockwell, Manager
220 West 42nd Street New York City
THE GARDEN
Fountain in Ancient Ware
For Conservatory and Sun Room, with Tile inlay, giving the
Art stone that little touch of color and warmth and bringing
out most beautiful and harmonious effects.
Above Fountain has a channel 4” wide x 6” deep to plant
flowers in and centre pan has power unit attached so all you
need is an electric connection, no water pipes are required as
pump keeps circulating water and Fountain is illuminated
while running.
Our catalogue will give you many suggestions
THE FISCHER & JIROUCH CO.
4825 Superior Ave. Cleveland, Ohio
CONCENTRATED PULVERIZED
_ MANURE
Superior quality—dried and sterilized
in high temperature driers—finely pul-
verized — unequaled natural fertil-
izer for lawn, fruit, vegetable or
flower garden. Makes big profits on
field crops because it gives the soil what it
needs to make things grow.
Ask for booklet, prices
and freight rates to-day.
The Pulverized Manure Co.
20 Union Stock Yards Chicago
golf courses, etc.
and how to plant.
HENRY
a Z Aaa
GLADIOLI
Send for catalogue of all the best varieties. Twenty finest
blooming bulbs of varieties : Peace, War, Schwaben, or Mrs.
Frank Pendleton mailed postpaid, for One Dollar. Above are
the very finest kinds.
SUMNER PERKINS, Danvers; Mass.
IRISES and YELLOW LILIES
1 Each of 12 Broad-leaved Irises $1.00
6 Each of 12 Broad-leaved Irises 4.00
1 Each of 4 Siberian Irises 50
6 Each of 4 Siberian Irises 2.00
1 Each of 5 Yellow Day-lilies 1.00
1 Each of 2 Eulalias and 1 Calamus -50
Price includes postage. For rates on larger quantities see
price-list. A postal card will get it for you.
ORONOGO FLOWER GARDENS, Carterville, Mo.
Used on many of the finest estates in America, because of
proven superiority. Rigid tests for purity and germination—
and our development of special formulas to meet every growing
condition, assure your complete satisfaction.
Our Grass Seed experts are always at your service—state your
problems, let us help solve them.
Michell’s Seed Book
Describes and lists the best grass seed for every purpose, every condition
—for city, suburbs or seashore; for average lawns, for shaded places, for
Covers every garden and farm need. | Tells when, what
Write to-day for your copy—FREE.
F. MICHELL CO., 520 Market St., Philadelphia
contains 160 pages
profusely illustrated.
TT: —,
| BEAUTIFY YOUR HOME with
TASTY PLANTINGS |
We furnish planting suggestions Free
3 Everblooming Hydrangeas, 5 Dwarf Deutzias,
5 Dwarf Spireas, 3 Weigelias, 5 Dwarf Barberry.
21 Hardy Shrubs, 2-3 ft., $10.00 with planting
plan.
Five 2 yr. Roses, $3.00 Postpaid.
Cl. American Beauty, Cr. Rambler, Everbloom-
ing-Cochet (pink), Radiance (red), Mad. Plantier
(white). Guaranteed to bloom first season.
Gardening ‘“‘Manual”’ with each order FREE.
HORTICULTURAL GARDENS, Unadilla, N. Y.
DAHLIAS are the wondrous results of years of hybridizing exper-
iments in crossing and recrossing the choicest English, French and
Holland varieties.
They are marvelously beautiful in both coloring
and form, have strong stems and are excellent as cut flowers.
Catalogue Free
Colour In My Garden
By LOUISE BEEBE WILDER
A practical colour manual, with exquisite paintings made from
author’s own garden. Neé, $10.00
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO. Garden City, N. Y.
Horsford’s The best plants for cold cli-
mates are those which have
Cold been tried in the North, Many kinds which
will do in Southern Ne 2G Ce Ns nA rae
ways winter in Northern New England. y
Weather 25th anniversary annual offers about all the really
PI t hardy shrubs, trees, vines, herbaceous plants,
an Ss lilies, wild flowers, hardy ferns, &c., suitable
to Northern New England. Ask for cat-
alogue N.
F. H. HORSFORD, CHARLOTTE, VT.
7
M. G. TYLER
1660 DERBY STREET
PORTLAND, OREGON
The New York Botanical Garden
INSTRUCTION IN GARDENING
Practical instruction is offered in vegetable, flower
and fruit gardening, greenhouse and nursery prac-
tice, together with lectures, laboratory, field and
shop work in garden botany, zoology, pathology,
landscape design, soils, plant chemistry and related
subjects.
The curriculum is planned for the education of
any persons who would become trained gardeners or
fitted to be superintendents of estates or parks.
Students may be admitted at any time.
Circulars and other information will be mailed on application.
THE NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN
BRONX PARK, NEW YORK CITY
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
144.
Lattice
Fences
Garden
Houses
Gates and
Arbors
The Beautifier of Permanence and
Individuality for Public and
Private Grounds
Transforming barren spaces into
spots of rarest charm and beauty.
When writing enclose roc and
Ask for Pergola Album ‘*H-30"”
HARTMANN - SANDERS COMPANY
Elston and Webster Avenue, CHICAGO
New York Office, 6 East 39th St., New York City
ILO
q a CNEL Wn ILL
A List of
Krelage’s Dahlias, Gladioli
Begonias
- and other home-grown bulbs for Spring plant-
ing will be sent free to applicants by
J. A. de VEER
100 William Street, New York
Sole Agent for
U. S. for E. H. Krelage & Son, Haarlem, Holland
Established 1811
PLANTS SEEDS ROOTS
Complete assortment of hardy Northern grown
Berry Plants, Garden Seeds and Roots. Strict-
ly first class. True toname. Prices reason-
able. Catalogue sent FREE.
A. R. WESTON & CO. Bridgman, Mich.
GARDEN LABELS
Know when, where and what you planted. Label your garden.
100 wood labels in assortment from the big 12-inch for marking
garden rows to little copper-wired label for marking trees and
shrubs.
post paid.
Cc. H. GORDINIER
Attractively packed with marking pencil 70 cts.,
Troy, N. Y.
RE-MOVE-ABLE STEEL
CLOTHES POSTS & FLAG POLES
CosT LESS THAN Woop
No holes to dig. jk
Won’t disfigure
lawn. Set it your- || R
self in steel socket |
driven in ground.
Poles and posts of
rust proof galvan-
ized steel filled
+712 PR les Flag
SAhl—r Lzdhe, with concrete. In- ||| Poles
Hi] --- M2 'stantly removable. }} — suit
x, | = Cannot decay, last life- Soldier
eter \ time. Better and Aisne
ere @ | a cheaper than wood. . ners
a inet, fA; Also makers of Tennis ¥
ant “=met posts and fence
y) 1 posts. Ask dealers or
write us for Folder G.
NEWARKSTEELPOST CO.
Newark, New Jersey
THE GARDEN MAGAZIN
Why Not Have Rabbits?—I wish to tell
you how much the magazine has helped
me and how much J have enjoyed it. Of
course, it is said that anything will grow
in California but we have our own troubles in
San Francisco—slugs for one thing, wind for
another, and the pesky sparrows. However,
the magazine is the greatest friend one could
wish in any case. I would like to tell my ex-
perience for the benefit of any subscriber who
can profit by it. I have put in four rabbit
hutches which take up a space of 3 x I5 ft.
as they are 2 ft. high and the lower one is 6 in.
off the ground. According to fanciers, they
must be allowed 12 sq. ft. of space to be
healthy. I have about 65 x 30 ft. of garden
mostly in vegetables, of which I get three
crops. Rabbits are clean little animals, free
from any diseases if kept clean and given fresh
food; they multiply rapidly as each litter
numbers from 4 to 12 little ones (usually 6 or
8); they can be raised successfully on refuse
garden truck with very little grain and hay,
or dry grass; and they sell readily in the mar-
kets here at 23c. per pound, and at four
months average 5 to 6 lbs. Rabbits differ
greatly. I find that the Belgian Hare has
the best disposition, is the easiest to handle,
sells and eats best, and is besides the largest
rabbit on the scales. My hutches are screened
with loganberry bushes and these add to
rather than detract from the appearance of
my garden. The rabbit manure adds to
the fertility of the garden, which is an item
in itself. -[ have two does and one buck for
breeding and one hutch for the market rab-
bits. I find that four hutches at least are
required for the proper care of my rabbits
and they are all made with one inch netting
doors in front of runs and solid doors on the
nests.—Mrs. W. A. Arding, San Francisco,
Cal.
Starting a Lawn On a Slope.—Considerable
difficulty is often experienced in getting grass
seed to start on the edge of a lawn where
it rolls down to meet the curb, and even
when once started it is not easy to get the
water to remain on the sloping surface long
enough to thoroughly wet the sod. I have
been able to meet these difficulties and to
avoid running water into the street by a very
simple method of procedure. Taking an old
broom stick and sharpening the end to a long
point, I go along the sloping surface and
punch holes in the ground about four inches
deep and three or four inches apart over the
whole of the slope. In watering the lawn it
is only necessary to put water enough on this
part of it to fill these holes. The water thor-
oughly saturates the ground; there is no
run off; there is a fine growth right down to the
curb. The holes need to be renewed about
once in six weeks. Try it.—C. F. Davis,
State Agricultural College, Fort Collins,
Colorado. 7
iW) iW) We
as As As.
. AprRiIxt, 1919
The New Thorough
Sub-Irrigation System
Will make your Home Garden of vegetables, fruits and flowers
produce the highest yield—both in quantity and quality.
NO DEPENDENCE ON RAIN and fear of LOSS THROUGH
DRY SEASON and drought. Comparatively little water re-
quired as the underground system feeds the roots directly and
vitalizes the plants throughout the growing season. ether
you have a small garden or large instal! the new SCI IF-
ICALLY CONSTRUCTED SUB-IRRIGATION SYSTEM and
increase your pleasure and profit of gardening.
ECONOMICAL TO INSTALL
Made up in sections which are easy and quickly connected up
—laid and re-laid.
Write for descriptive circulars and prices.
THE WESTERN IRRIGATION COMPANY,
Tulsa, Oklahoma
By FRANCES DUNCAN
Formerly Garden Editor of
The Ladies’ Home Journal
Home Vegetables and Small
Fruits
Their Culture and Preservation
Illustrated. $1.40 net.
The Joyous Art of Gardening
Illustrated. $1.75 net.
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
Read
The Valley of the Giants
A Romance of the Redwoods, by
PETER B. KYNE
D. P. & CO. Net, $1.50
A Daughter
of the Land
GENE STRATTON-PORTER
Author of ‘‘Freckles,’’ “‘A Girl of the
Limberlost,”’ “‘The Harvester,”’ etc.
HIS is Mrs. Porter’s great-
est novel. Toall the appeal
of her other books is added a
new sincerity of purpose.
The whole book is in tune with
the earnest mood of the times.
It is essentially patriotic in
spirit, and emphasizes the sound
and normal philosophy of life —
and the fundamental contribu-
tion—of those who love the
land and spend their lives in-
creasing its products.
Net, $1.50
Doubleday, Page & Company
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
Peas. | Leah ee THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 145
: MOM MMMM MMMM
Zilll
Destroy Bugs— Prevent Blights
Insure the success of your “Victory” garden
by thorough spraying.
Brown’s Auto-Spray No. 1 puts on a fine
spray or solid stream as desired. A minute’s
pumping and you’re ready to deliver a bar-
rage against bugs and blights of every name
and nature. Yourthumb absolutely controls
the shut-off, preventing waste of high-priced
chemicals. The patented non-clog nozzle pre-
vents bother and the loss of valuable time.
ROTESTSEED
Packed in the moisture proof glass container.
Genmination and date of test with every tube
and jar. The Modern Scientific Way. Veg-
etable and Flower Seeds 10c. per Tube. Sold
only by
S. A: ROGERS COMPANY
Seedsmen and Nurserymen
453 BROAD STREET, “‘At the Sign of the Plow’”” NEWARK,N. J.
Catalogue on application
mean preserves, jellies, grape-juice for the table
in winter. This spring is the time to start grow-
ing this delicious fruit.
Hubbard’s Grape Catalogue for 1919
will tell you the best sorts for home growing, how to
care for the vines and fruit. Send to-day for a copy.
T.S-. HUBBARD CO., Box 18, Fredonia, N.Y.
outfits are made in nearly 40 styles and. sizes.
There’s one for every spraying job. All are guaran-
teed to be mechanically perfect and ___
to give entire satisfaction. L
IrIsES, PEONIES, GLADIOLI
Importers and growers of choice varieties.
Send for our free illustrated catalogue.
—
Our Spraying Calendar is a mine of | ©?
spray wisdom. It tells when to spray
| and with what. Send for it to-day—
free; also ask for 1919 catalogue.
THE E. C. BROWN CO.|
Auto-Spray No.t 850 MAPLE ST., ROCHESTER, N. Y.
RaInBow GARDENS }0Montreal Ave
ini
A Beauty from France
“Rouge Torch”’ is an exquisite gladiolus. Blush petals with
throat blotch of crimson velvet. Especially graceful for
vase arrangement. $1.50 per dozen. $9.00 per hundred,
prepaid. Artistic catalogue of choice gladioli on request.
W. L. CRISSEY, ‘“‘Gladiolus Farm’’
Boring, Oregon
Pulverized Sheep Manure
Best for Lawns and Gardens
Nature’s Own Plant Food. For all
crops. Especially good for lawns,
gardens, etc., where quick and cer-
OU es ee ee “No library complete without Kipling complete ”’
ccc
EE TTTtOOCCCCtChicKiincccciccicciiicniiciin
Oriental FI ° T GLADIOLI—How Shall I Buy?
rl a owering rees If you are just starting and feel bewildered by the many
= “3 kinds, you cannot do better than to accept my offer of 50
Persian, Japanese and Chinese selected bulbs, prepaid, for One Dollar. They will all be
ood, and a lot for the money; then you can order a few more
on my catalogue. Address
GEORGE S. WOODRUFF
Box G Independence, Iowa
Catalogue Free
“THE GARDEN’ Narberth, Penna.
extensively for small fruits, shrub-
bery, etc. Rich in nitrogen, phos-,
phoric acid, and potash; also adds’
umus.
Sheep’s Head YL A : ‘ Migs
So Menu ee ‘ ‘ “Victory” Collection of Gladioli
Gives Many Rare and Lovely Colors
SARE tae ae In this assortment of 100 bulbs are some of the finest named varieties, whose
©A| richness of color has made them especially valuable for general use. To pur-
(ay4| chase this “Victory” collection in separate varieties would cost over seven
ree dollars, but I offer
The latest word in eC “Victory” Collection, 100 Bulbs for $5, postpaid
: ; efficiency and econ- ABN
omy in Gardening with Glass. es ‘‘Peace’’ Collection
i tedii eG : Sys : ;
Sash of all ar eae ied in stock. By Ten splendid varieties of superior quality and colors.
Small, inexpensive, ready-made Green- ae é
houses for summer delivery. Ky One bulb of each (unlabeled) for $1.00, postpaid
Suntrapz—the wonder working plant hogs Special price list and catalogue (1918 edition) mailed on request. All the
boxes eat come by mail, 65 cents each | yj mew Meadowvale Farm Gladioli are given accurate color descriptions.
postpaid. i
Get our Catalogue of Garden outfits. Free | ARTHUR COWEE
Sunlight Double Glass Sash Co. Hl \\i Meadowvale Farms Box 240, Berlin, New York
927 E. Broadway Louisville, Ky.
o =
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
146
THE GARDEN *MAGAZINE
eNO
CL
-_ = — ——
BARKER
Hard Work
out of
Gardening
Just push this machine through your gar-
den and see the weeds go. Blades, revolv-
ing against stationary knife (like a lawn
mower), destroy the weeds and at the same
time break up the clods and crust into a
moisture-retaining mulch. “Best Weed
Killer Ever Used.” Gets close to the
plants. Guards protect leaves.
Go over your garden with a BARKER after
every rain. (Ten times as fast as a hoe.) It’s
really a pleasure—and it'll keep your garden in
perfect growing condition. A boy can use this
machine. Has shovels for deeper cultivation,
making three garden tools in one.
FREE Booklet
and Factory-to-User Offer
Write for our free book of information about
gardening. Fully illustrated. Shows the Barker
at work, tells what users think of it.
BARKER MFG. CO.
Dept. 11 David City, Neb.
=
SIX “BUFFALO”
Portable Sections
and a few live chicks or rabbits
will amuse and keep the
BOY HEALTHY
Ideal weather now approaching, those youngsters
must have fresh air to be healthy.
Six “‘BUFFALO”’ Portable Sections and a few
chicks or rabbits will keep them outdoors and en-
tertain as well as educate them. The 6’x 2’size is
just the thing for the youngsters. Six sections will
only cost $10.56 and a small additional amount the
express charges may be to your point of delivery.
Send in a trial order now and avoid the rush.
Booklet No. 67 A A will be mailed upon request
with six cents in stamps to cover postage.
BUFFALO WIRE WORKS CO.
(Formerly Scheeler’s Sons)
467 Terrace Buffalo, N. Y.
AP Ri
1919
Novel Planting Device for Dry Soil
ERE’S a good garden “stunt” that I
saw used last year. The gardener is a
suburban amateur enthusiast for good
culture, a man who applies fundamen-
tal principles rather than follows the rules of the
thumb. He has been using his feet to frm the
seeds in the soil when sowing had to be done in
dry weather and had always had good success
even when the ground was so dry that most of it
would blow away when a handful was crumbled
and allowed to “pour.” But since he weighs
about 175 pounds and since weight is, he thinks,
too much for seeds as small as carrots though all
right for beans, corn, and perhaps beets, and also
since tramping takes too much time he hit upon
the idea of turning his wheel barrow upside down
and laying a few pieces of plank or some large
stones near the wheel which is trundled down
the row in a quarter the time needed for tramping.
The weight may easily be varied from that of
the unweighted wheel barrow to a heavy load
according to the size of the seed sown so the firm-
ing may not be over done. If one does not have
a wheel barrow but can get cast iron wheels of
various sizes these may be given axles and handles
and pushed down the row. If the wheels have
cogs, so much the better because not only would
the wheels press the soil well but the cogs would
break up the immediate surface and leave it in
a mulched condition. Such devices are of special
value when sowings are made in June, July, or
August when the soil is usually much drier than
in May or earlier.
Ideal Bee Hive Location——An orchard, near
fields where flowers are plentiful is doubtless
ideal for the location of bee hives. But colonies
may be successfully maintained in backyards
and even on the house tops of cities. The hives
should be placed a few feet apart to allow working
between them without disturbing the hives.
Also they should be far enough away from walks,
avenues, or roads to prevent annoyance of pas-
sersby. In the North a sunny slope protected
from prevailing winds should be chosen. While
the early morning sun should reach the hive yet
shade is needed during midday in summer. ‘The
former starts-work early in the day; the latter
makes life bearable in hot weather. Always the
location must be dry. Weeds and tall grass must
not be allowed to grow around the hive especially
in front as they interfere with the bees and the
operator.
Good Hives For Bees
Before starting beekeeping it is well to decide
on the style of hives to be used.. The standard
hive is used by nearly all practical beekeepers.
The hive consists of a bottom board, the brood
chamber or living quarters which is a box con-
taining eight or ten movable frames and a cover.
A more thorough description is given in supply
catalogues. ‘The original of this hive was invent-
ed in 1851, by the Rey. L. L. Langstroth, so is
sometimes called the Langstroth hive. All other
movable frame hives are but modifications of
this. It is usually best to buy hives in the flat
and nail them together, rather than to try to
make them. Factory made hives are made with
great accuracy. This hive (illustrated) has been
adopted as the standard because it combines
more good qualities than any other.
Above the Standard hive and beneath the
cover is placed a shallow box or frame which holds
the comb honey section. It is called a super, and
is the store room in which the bees place their
surplus honey. Often several supers are placed
onone hive. These supers may be used for either
comb or extracted honey. Each is fitted differ-
ently with inside fixtures. The extracting supers
having frames similar to those of the brood cham-
bers but much shallower. The section box super
is provided with section holders or forms to hold
section boxes. The super most highly recom-
mended by A. W. Yates of the Connecticut Ex-
periment Station is known as the N section frame
super (see below). It is fitted with eight
: section frames
holding four
section boxes
each with a
ten frame
hive; or seven
with the eight
frame _ hive.
The frames
are separated
by fences as
shown by the
illustration.
These frames
not only serve
to hold the
section boxes
square, but
by covering
them com-
pletely pro-
tect them
from stains
that are al-
ways present
when the open
top styles are
used.
The frame
most com-
monly used
with these
hivesis known
as the Hoff-
man self spac-
ing. This is built in two sizes; one being 93
inches deep for the regular hive, the other 5%
inches deep for the shallow hive or super.
These are suspended separately so the bee-
keeper may be able to keep a hive of bees apart
if he desires. The person who has a modern hive
and does not avail himself of the advantage it
permits, may as well go back to the old box hive
of his grandfather.
(Continued on page 148)
At top section-frame super where the‘honey
is stored by the bees. The other sketches
show a ten frame hive with comb-honey super
and perforated zinc queen excluder
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
ESSSSSSSSSS SSS HHH AAMAS SE RAQQy
APRIL, 1919
NAMA
VIBERT AIREDALE TERRIERS gage
The “ONE MAN” Dog
Classiest, bravest dog bred. THE popular dog of the times for home, farm, country, auto, children. Splendid companion,
romping playmate, matchless @aich and stock dog. Endorsed as unsurpassed all round hunter by Roosevelt and Rainey.
eoulye intelligent, steadfastly faithful, deeply affectionate and true as steel. Clean minded, self respecting, dependable
with children
VIBERT AIREDALES ARE SPECIALLY SELECTED for brains and brawn, raised under 1000 fruit trees, healthy, hardy,
absolutely free trom distemper, of which we never had a case. CLASSY, COBBY, UPSTANDING STOCK, thoroughbred,
pedigreed, registered, certified.
The Kind of a Dog They Turn in the Street to Look At
WE OFFER: (1) Healthy, hardy, active, thoroughbred, rolypoly, comical, loving puppies, male, female or unrelated pairs. (2) Grown or partly grown male or female or unrelated pair for
pede, (3) A splendid bitch already served by our magnificent stud. We guarantee prompt shipment, safe delivery anywhere on earth, sincere dealings and satisfaction.
AT ST Brainy, Brawny, Noble, Upstanding INTERNATIONAL CHAMPION Kootenai Chinook (the only American bred international champion Airedale stud in the world). Fee
$25. Simply express your bitch to Weston, N. J., she will be bred and returned. Descriptive illustrated booklet and price list on request. Also stud card.
VIBERT AIREDALE FARM, Box 5B, Weston, New Jersey
SSS AC LL TT
Phone Bound Brook 397
YL Wa
SSSA SSNS
: 'Dedaon Purple - ‘ Dodson Sezangular
seret miaranblopeel cole Flicker House eee
diam. " le compartm ong, 12in, wide, [De
bigh Ge ee B $5597 In. Price $12.00. deep, Price $5.00.
The Birds Are Coming! Heralds of Spring!
Like a flash of sunshine the first courageous little bluebird arrives; other birds appear, radi-
ating happiness and presaging glorious Spring days to follow. Spring will disappear, but you
can keep these little feathered friends if you properly welcome and prepare for theircomfort.
Dodson Bird Houses oes and shrubs from insects, and assurance
of a cheery, artistic environment. _
will bring them and keep them all summer. These —let the houses weather.
houses, Srientifically built by a bird-lover, whose Order Now blending into the foliage
knowledge and understanding of birdsis unlimited, and assuming an appearance of habitation.
offer sheltered, inviting homes for the little song- Free Bird Book sent on request, illustrating
sters. Dodson Bird Houses are an investment, Dodson line, giving prices; also beautiful
paying invaluable dividends— protection of bird picture free. :
ecident A Aud A tati
Joseph H. Dodson “73 tfarrison Ave., Kankakee, Illinois
p arrow Trap guara teed to rid 1 Your community of these quarre ESOIIIEZ esis.
et as piodears Wren House, 4
ompartments 28 in.
8TH ANNUAL PRICE REDUCTION
Pure-Bred Day-Old Chicks
May brings chance to get Pittsfield strain at prices low as common
chicks. More eggs and better hatches cut costs. Prices for each of
five breeds, Rhode Island Reds, White Leghorns, Barred Rocks,
White Rocks, WhiteWyandottes determined by date of shipment.
Write us number, breed, delivery date. We will resefve chicks.
No money down. Pay just before shipment. Price list and poultry
booklets sent on request. ~
Safe delivery guaranteed.
PITTSFIELD POULTRY FARMS CO.
282 Main St. Holliston, Mass.
Rustic Cedar
Bird Houses do
“ need weather-
$1.00 each.
By Parcel Post
add Postage
Weight of three
Io lbs.
CRESCENT C0.
, “‘Birdville’”
: Toms River, N. J.
Colour In My Garden
= By LOUISE BEEBE WILDER
A practical colour manual, with exquisite paintings made
from author’s own garden. Net, $10.00
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO. Garden City, N. Y
$4800 A YEAR %.:20°,°
raising Rufus Red
Belgian Hares and Flemish Giant Rabbits. We
furnish high grade stock and pay $7.00 a Pair,
also express charges, for all you raise from same.
We need 3000 weekly. Get our FREE BOOK
telling how to feed, breed and house. Get started
stright. Don’t breed common rabbits.
DAVIS & SON, 128 AVE. 31, LOS ANGELES, CAL.
Verona
Bird Houses
i Give the birds a few log
} houses just such as they
find in the natural forest,
$1.10 each; three for $3.00
f.o0.b. Verona. Mailing
weight three pounds each.
List on request.
W. H. BAYLES
Verona New Jersey
SAVE THE TREES.—#pray for San Jose Scale,
,, Aphis, Whe By etc., with
sisi3 GOOD S>orassFISH OIL
| ee = =SOAP NOS
* Contains nothing poisonous or injurious to plants or
___Our book on Tree and Plant Diseases.
Write for it to-day.
are a source of endless
pleasure. The birds
they attract to your
garden bring life, color
and delightful entertain-
ment.
Erkins Bird Baths are to be had
in a variety of distinctive designs
and are rendered in Pompeian Stone,
a marble-like composition that is
practically everlasting.
Our new catalogue
of artistic
BIRD
FIXINGS
just out
FOREST CITY
BIRD HOMES
1810 W. State St.
Rockford, Ill.
Don’t Wear
a Truss
Brooks’ Appliance, the modern
scientific invention, the wonderful
new discovery that relieves rupture,
will be sent on trial. No obnoxious
springs or pads.
Brooks’ Rupture Appliance
Has automatic Air Cushions. Binds and draws the broken parts
together as you would a broken limb. No salves. No lies.
Durable, cheap. Sent on trial to prove it. Protected by U. S:
patents. Catalogue and measure blanks mailed free. Send name
and address to-day.
_ C. E. BROOKS,
This Bird
Bath diame-
ter 24 inches,
height 30 in-
ches, $20.00,
f.o.b. N.Y.
Illustrated catalogue sent
on request
THE ERKINS
STUDIOS
219 Lexington Avenue
NEW YORK
Mr. C, E. Brooks
275F State St., Marshall, Mich.
SEWAGE DISPOSAL
Eliminate The Cesspool With
Its Foul Odors and Serious
Health Menace.
The Aten Sewage Disposal System costs
but very little and can be installed by a
‘a
novice. No technical knowl- \
edge required... j =
Self-operating Dog Kennel No. 4 Poultry House for 200 hens—s units No. 3 Poultry House for 30 hens
at absolutely A FEW weeks ago a man from Texas ordered two will find just the one you need. Made in painted sections ready
no expense. carloads of Hodgson Poultry Houses. But they SOB seeps g>end fonicatHlogite to-daye
Bir booklet are not for big chicken farms only. They aremade —_& F. HODGSON CO., Room 311, 71-73 Federal St., Boston
No. I tell for little back yard flocks too. Many styles and sizes Meee souineee Nace Vere
h 0. it if s 2 of houses, coops and brooders are shown in our catalogue. You » 39th St., New fork City
iow it works.
Sewaze Disposal Co,
286 Fifth Ave., New York City
HODGSON PORTABLE HOUSES
Advertisers wilt appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
APRIL, 1919
(Continued from page 146)
Hens as Hatchers
Where one has only a small flock of fowls
it will rarely pay to have an incubator and
a brooder to raise chickens or ducks; so the
hen must be relied upon to raise any chicks
or ducklings that may be needed. A great
deal of the success in raising fowls depends upon
the nature of the hen. Some hens are so nervous
or irritable that they are not safe to use for hatch-
ing. They should therefore have their broodiness
“broken up.” This may be done by confining
them in a lath coop suspended by a single wire
from the rafters of the poultry house. Every
motion the hen makes tends to make this coop
move with the result that the hen soon abandons
the idea of brooding and may be returned to the
flock.
The best type of hen to choose for hatching is
one that allows you to approach her without be-
coming disturbed and will even eat out of your
hand. Naturally the large sized hen is desirable
because she will cover more eggs than the small
one. Among the best breeds for incubation are
the Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Dorkings,
and Orpingtons, all of them large and naturally
docile.
As soon as the hen indicates her desire to set
she should be thoroughly dusted with a good lice
powder to kill lice upon her and a day or two
afterward given a second application of the
powder to kill any young that may have hatched
from the eggs on her body when the old ones were
killed. After this second application she should
be moved at night to the coop in which she is to
do the hatching and given only nest eggs. Before
she is moved, however, she should be well fed so
she will feel contented. If she takes kindly to
the new nest she may be given the clutch of eggs
to be hatched during the evening of the next day,
that is twenty-four hours after she has been on
the new nest.
A good deal of the success of hatching with
hens depends upon the nature of the nest. “The
best way to make the nest is to place inverted
sods on the ground in a building making a hollow
in the earth so the eggs will all cluster toward
the centre. On top of this, straw may be placed
and formed bowl shape. The reasons for using
earth and sod are that warmth is retained longer
than if the nest were above ground. There is
also less likelihood of lice becoming a pest in such
quarters. To keep down lice it is a good plan
to sprinkle the nest with lice powder two or three
times during the hatching period. With chick-
ens this lasts three weeks, with ducks, four. A
day or two before the hatch is completed the hen
should be thoroughly dusted again with lice
powder to have her as free as possible of these
pests so she may not impart them to the chicks.
During the fourth to the sixth day it is a good
plan to examine the eggs and remove those which
have no sign of life in them. ‘This is very easily
done by using a lamp enclosed in a box with an
aperture through which the light shines and to
which the egg is held. Eggs that have life in
them will show a dark spot and lines where the
heart and blood vessels have commenced to form;
those that contain no life will remain as clear as
when freshly laid. The sterile ones may be
removed and kept in a cold place until after the
hatch when they may be boiled hard, crumbled,
and fed to the chicks either alone or mixed with
bread crumbs. The advantage of removing
these eggs is that the hen can give better care to
the remaining eggs. If several hens are set at
the same time, one or more may be started on
new batches of eggs—the other eggs being given
to the remaxning hens.
Notwithstanding the care taken to get rid of
lice on the hen the chicks should have their heads,
vents, and the underneath parts of the wings
greased with carbolated vaseline or some other
greasy material before they are given to the hen.
Any grease or oil will do—not kerosene. This
grease will kill any lice that happen to come from
the hen or from other sources.
The hen is most: profitable during her first
and second years. Unless she is an exceptionally
good breeder she should be disposed of at the end
of her second laying season, before beginning
to molt. After that she will lay few eggs, so
why feed her for no return?
The Keeping of Bees in box-hives or log “gums”
is unprofitable. Bees need care in order to
yield a fair crop of honey. This can be given
only if the beekeeper is able to’examine the bees
and to move the combs as needed. Probably
one third of all the bees in the United States are
in hives. without movable combs. To assist
owners to get such colonies in proper hives, Far-
mers’ Bulletin No. 961 has been prepared. It
describes various methods, some one of which
will be possible to any beekeeper, so there is no
reason for delay in making the bees productive.
However, unless the bees are properly managed
after transfer there is little advantage in movable
frame hives. ‘This requires a study of beekeeping
as well as promptness and care. Directions for
handling bees are given in other department
publications which every beekeeper should read.
A Garden Library for a
Dollar and a Quarter
Bound volumes of THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
represent the last word on gardening. It is really
a loose leaf cyclopedia of horticulture.
kept up-to-date. Save your copies of THE GAR-
DEN MAGAZINE and let us bind them for you.
There is a new volume every six months, and
Vol. 28 is now ready. Send your magazines by
Parcel Post and we will supply index, and bind
them for you for $1.25.
Circulation Department
If you have not kept all
of the numbers we will supply the missing copies
at 25c each, or we will supply the bound volume
complete for $2.00. THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
can be of more service this year than ever before,
and you can get most out of the magazine when you
bind it, and keep it in permanent form. Address:
You are
GARDEN MAGAZINE, Garden City, N. Y. |
E
aaa
My Garden
By LOUISE BEEBE WILDER
The Editor of The Garden Magazine Calls this Book:
HE most inspirational and yet, at the same
time, the most practical book on the Amer-
ican garden that has appeared for some years.
q “In ‘My Garden,’ the reader is carried along from
the year’s beginning to its close in a series of chap-
ters that interpret the months, their opportunities to
the gardener and the lessons they convey.”
q “A book, by the way, that should do much to
popularize the personal side of gardening among us.’’.
2 AT ALL BOOKSTORES, Net $1.50
2 Have You Read this Book Yet?
cic AANA
evi
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
International Rose
Plants
Don’t wait until the last minute to order your
Rose plants. The world has been at war four
years and stocks of many kinds are at the
vanishing point.
We are in a position to quote good blocks
dormant two and three year old plants of the
following varieties:
Made In America
Columbia
The Gem of Pink Roses
This will be the standard Garden Rose when generally
distributed, the fullest, most fragrant, hardiest pink we
have ever sent out. $1.00 per plant; $10.00 per dozen.
Ophelia Supreme
Described by one of my customers last year—‘‘The most
wonderful Rose I ever had in my garden.’’ Blooms from
June until frost. Lovely light pink with a yellow flush at
the base of the petals. $1.00 per plant; $10.00 per dozen.
Hoosier Beauty and Hadley
Two American raised crimson sorts that have taken the
world by storm. ‘They stand alone in their color.
White Killarney and Pink Killarney
Two lovely gems that have carried the charm of Irish Roses
into gardens all over the world.
Sunburst, Mrs. Aaron Ward and Mdm. Collette Martinette
A Trio of French Beauties
Superb yellows, always in bloom and always satisfactory.
Ophelia
The English variety that is now the Standard Rose of America for indoor or outdoor culture. Nothing
like it for freedom and lovely shadings of color.
All the above we will sell at $7.50 per dozen; $50.00 per hundred.
We catalogue over 150 varieties most of which we can still supply in varying quantities.
CHARLES H. TOTTY COMPANY Madison, New Jersey
a -
urpee’s Seeds
(;row
ROOT CROPS
Root Crops are easy to grow. They are, perhaps, the best of all vegetables for the home garden.
They grow closely together and produce the most food value per square inch. Root Crops contain
_mineral salts and a high percentage of sugar and starch. They can be had throughout the entire
™ summer and they can be easily stored for winter use. Root Crops are most popular because
y of their economy and great food value.
‘ With each Collection listed below we include the Burpee Leaflet on ‘‘How to Grow
Root Crops’’:
Economy Collection of Root Crops, 25c.
This Economy Collection contains one packet each of the following most popular of
all Root Crops for the home garden:
Beet, Burpee’s Dark Stinson Radish, Scarlet Button
Carrot, Danvers Half-Long Turnip, Purple-Top White Globe
Onion, Prizetaker Ruta Baga, Purple-Top Yellow
The Economy Collection will be mailed to your door for 25c.
Food Value Collection of Root Crops $1.00
This Food Value Collection contains all the Root ES best suited for the home
garden. It contains the Burpee Cultural Leaflet on Root Crops and one packet each of
the following varieties:
Beet, Burpee’s Extra Early Kohl Rabi, Early White Vienna Radish, White Chinese
Beet, Burpee’s Columbia Onion, Prizetaker Salsify, Mammoth Sandwich Island
Beet, Early Model Onion, Red Wethersfield Turnip, Purple-Top Strap-Leaf
Carrot, Early Golden Ball Onion, White Portugal Turnip, White Globe
Carrot, Chantenay Parsnip, Guernsey Ruta Baga, Im. Purple-Top Yellow
Carrot, Danvers Half Long Radish, Scarlet Button Florence Fenne
Celeriac Radish, Icicle
The Food Value Collection will give you fresh Root Crops all summer and Root Crops to
store for winter use. If purchased separately this Collection would cost you $1.75. It will be
mailed to your door complete for $1.00.
Burpee’s Annual for 1919
Burpee’s Annual is a complete guide for the Flower and Vegetable garden. It contains an
entire chapter on EDIBLE SEEDS, ROOT CROPS, and GREENS and SALADS. And last,
but perhaps most delicious of all, are the VEGETABLE FRUITS!
Burpee’s Annual is considered the leading American Seed Catalog. It will be mailed to you
free upon request. Write for your copy to-day. A post ¢ard will do.
W. Atlee Burpee Co.
_ Seed Growers _ Philadelphia .
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
7 PRICE
as 25 Cents
Window and Porch
Boxes :
Poppies for Every Garden
Gladiolus
Garden Walks
Irises
World’s Best for
American Gardens, II
TREES (Continued)
WVhen is the Tree Sur-
geon Needed?
SU LQULUOQ0VOTNEAC AGEL
Pruning Flowering Shrubs
VOL. XXIX. NO. 4
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY, GARDEN CITY, NEW YORK
Dreer’s Roses for the Garden
The bulk of our Roses were field grown in 1918, then carefully
dug, planted in pots and stored in cold frames. Under this plan
the stock is strong and ready to start blooming, and much superior
to stock forced by high temperature.
The Dreer’s Dozen Hardy Everblooming Hybrid-Tea Roses
is revised each year to include the very best Hybrid-Teas for
Garden culture. This collection will furnish a constant supply of
blooms throughout the summer and autumn—the best of every color.
DUCHESS OF WELLINGTON LADY ASHTOWN-— Soft rose LAURENT CARLE—Large, de- _ MRS. AARON WARD—A dis-
—Intense saffron-yellow stained shading to yellow, flowers large on liciously scented, brilliant carmine tinct Indian-yellow, shading lighter
with deep crimson, changing to long stems. flowers. towards the edges.
a deep coppery saffron-yellow.
: : i LADY URSULA—A delightful JONKHEER J. L. MOCK— MY MARYLAND—Bright but
OPHELIA— Delicate tint of sal- tone of flesh-pink, delicately tea- Deep imperial pink with outside of tender salmon-pink, delightfully
mon-flesh, shaded with rose, very See mee
aritoris, “hore: ste seme scented. petals silvery rose-white. fragrant. ;
ECARLATE—Produces a greater LADY ALICE STANLEY MME. JULES BOUCHE— CAROLINE TESTOUT — One
number of flowers than any other Hy- —A beautiful shade of coral- White, at times slightly tinted with of the most popular bedders.
brid-Tea in our collection. Intense rose, inside of petals shading to blush on the reverse side of petals. Bright satiny-rose, very free and
brilliant scarlet color and of perfect flesh-pink. Long, stiff stems. fragrant.
form.
DREER’S 1919
GARDEN BOOK
HENRY A. DREER
Y
75 Cents Each, $7.50 per Dozen, $60. per 100
Besides illustrating Roses for every purpose, is the best guide for your Garden. Its articles for both planting and caring
for Vegetables and Flowers were written by experts. The varieties listed are dependable in quality and germination. It is quite as
much a Garden Book as a catalogue. Free if you mention this publication.
714-716 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa.
Re
—~, eS Si EE SN I tS IRS 2 eee UE I IT ae
“Make Dreams ‘Come True’” |
+ Wer the opportunity came to realize the garden of
our dreams, we found ourselves at a loss to know
just how to go about it. Our lawn was to be one
of beauty throughout the year, with positively no barren
period. In our dilemma we appealed to MOON'S.
“If you ever plan to re-make your garden, go to MOON’S.
They have the most wonderful nursery stock—acres and
acres of it, and they take such keen interest in your par-
ticular problem. Through their suggestions and assistance }€
to us, our dream garden has become a satisfying reality.” |})
MOON'S HardyTrees, Shrubs and Plants for Every Place and Purpose.
Write us your problem and request our catalog.
The Wm. H. Moon Company, Nurserymen
Morrisville, Pennsylvania e
On Lincoln Highway—Midway between New York and Philadelphia {&
PANEL YOUR PORCH -
WITH PEARL WIRE CLOTH
= =! be installation of portable screen panels is simple. They can be so con-
a ——_
structed that they lock together, close in the open sides of your porch and add to
= your home a delightful room—a sun porch by day and a cool sleeping room by night,
— protected against disease carrying flies and mosquitoes.
Specify PEARL Wire Cloth when screening. Due to itsmetallic coating, a special process
owned and controlled by us, PEARL is longest lasting, therefore costs less. It requires
no painting and no repairs and is the most handsome and sanitary. Insist upon the
genuine. PEARL has two copper wires in the selvage and our red tag on every roll.
= Write our nearest office for samples and
descriptive matter. Address Dept. “‘G’’
THE GILBERT & BENNETT MANUFACTURING COMPANY
New York Georgetown, Conn. Chicago Kansas City
G &B Pearlis made intwo weights—regular and extra heavy. The best hardware dealer in yourcitysells‘*Pearl.”
PSE ARMY ELE ELIT PLANT 10GB)
May, 1919
au TIA ee TTETTTwwwCtCwC ccc
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
tN
TET ccocccncc Ach
149
ith
DAPHNE CNEORUM, Garland Flower,
Now is the time to get busy if you propose
should be better known and more universally
planted.
In May and June it throws a pro-
fusion of
rosy -lilac
flowers with
to do any planting this spring. If unacquainted
with Nurs-
ery pro-
ducts, send
scattering Ome OU ie
blossoms all Handbook
through the of General
season. A Information
delightful ont frees
evergreen and Hardy
for the rock- Shrubs. It
ery or the will assist
border of an you in mak-
evergreen
ing select-
DA
ions and tell you where
you can get Nursery
Stock that is hardy and
well-grown.
bed. Price: 10 to 12 inch
spread, $1.00 each, $9.00
per dozen, $60.00 per
hundred.
Dow’t delay—write at once.
The Bay State Nurseries
678 Adams Street North Abington, Mass.
“Picea pungens, Kosters
LN
LIU
ULC IDL ATMA NATTA
Van Bourgondien Bros. Gladioli
Milady’s Garden. Is not complete without a liberal assortment of Gladioli. We offer two
collections unsurpassed for diversity of color and beauty of form.
America. The favorite pink. 60 cts. doz., $4.00 a 100. >
impress of India. Dark rich crimson. $1.00 doz., $7.00 a 100. :
Etna. Our own introduction. Large vivid red flowers, with white and crimson veins run-
ning through two lower petals. $2.00 doz., $12.00 a 100.
Lily Lehmann. White with slight pink tint. 80 cts. doz., $6.00 a 100.
Panama. Beautiful rose-pink. A favorite gladiolus. $1.00 doz., $7.00 a 100.
Mrs. Frank Pendleton. Delicate salmon pink with glowing red eyes. $1.00 doz., $7.00 a 100.
Schwaben. Light yellow with brown splotch in throat. $1.00 doz., $7.00 a 109.
COLLECTION. These seven varieties, one dozen of each variety, $6.50.
Primulinus Hybrids. The latest in gladioli.
Anny. Light yellow of great beauty. 80 cts. doz., $6.00 a 100.
Fiery King. Dazzling fiery red. $1.75 doz., $12.00 a 100.
Jane. Exquisite salmon yellow, very unique. $1.25 doz., $8.00 a 100.
Nelly. Light yellow. 80 cts. doz., $6.00 a 100.
Type. Bright yellow. 80 cts doz., $6.00 a 100.
COLLECTION. These five varieties, one dozen of each variety, $5.00
NEW DAHLIAS
Frans Ludwig. Exquisite lavender-pink decorative. Awards of merit and gold medals at
Haarlem and Amsterdam, 1918. $5.00 each. vee :
La Victoire. Largest light yellow decorative growing. A great exhibition variety. $2.50 each.
CANNAS
The brilliant colors of our 1919 offerings surpass anything we have ever grown.
Hardy Garden Iris—Peonies—Hardy Lilies
If order is accompanied by cash, we prepay all charges East of Mississippi—west of that
25% should be added. A request will bring our circular.
VAN BOURGONDIEN BROS.
BOX B, BABYLON, L. I., N. Y.
=
Nurseries, Babylon, L. I. and Hillegom, Holland
Van Bourgondien, Jr., with his favorite Etna Gladiolus
SN
Sill
AANA
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
150
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
THE “KIRKE” SYSTEM
Clean, Simple, ‘Efficient
Fertilize or Destroy Insects
While Watering Your Garden
Substitute this neat, clean, simple and efficient method
for the troublesome spray-pump and the offensive ma-
nure heap.
The ‘‘Kirke” System consists of a nickel-plated metal
container and distributor, into which is inserted a car-
tridge. The water flowing through the hose dissolves
the chemicals. ial
No. dirt, no odor.
No disease-breed-
ing manure heap.
This system will
save you time, la-
bor and money.
No manure means
less weeds.
To feed plants na-
ture’s way use
“Kirke” System.
You can now fer-
tilize your garden
or destroy insects
by simply using
your garden hose.
So simple a child can operate it
Take Advantage of These
Special Introductory Offers!
4 We Offer You Two Money- Saving Plans
4 PLAN “A”?
1 “Kirke” Feeder, costing $3.00 :
2 “Kirke” Fertilizer Cartridges .70 For only $3.00
PLAN “B”
1 “Kirke” Feeder, costing $3.00
2 “Kirke” Fertilizer Cartridges 10 F ]
1 “Kirke’’ Nicotine Insecticide Cartridge 45 or on y
1 “Kirke’”’ Arsenate of Lead Cartridge .60
1 “Kirke” Bordeaux Cartridge 53) $5.00
1 “Kirke” Angleworm Destroyer Cartridge 1.50
Send Your Order Now!
(Fill in the blank below)
i THE KIRKE CHEMICAL CO.,, Inc. :
- 245 Robinson Street, Brooklyn, New York |
— Gentlemen: § A? |} §M.O. | H
I Kindly send me Plan | “B’’ { for which I enclose }check{. Also
i send me your literature and name of nearest supply house handling ‘‘Kirke’’ P
- System supplies. ' r
i Name i
|
q
a Address L
Tee SSS Se Pn neemccoocemenr
THE KIRKE CHEMICAL CO., INC.
245 Robinson Street Brooklyn, New York
— wa ee
>in
cwttrTi Anite
Il se
MAGAZINE
Cover Drsicn—Tuitres - - - Lucy Hubbell
‘ i: PAGE
QUARANTINE No. 37 - - - - - = = = - - 155
Witt You SHARE Your SEEDS WITH FRANCE? - 155
Amonc Our GARDEN NEIGHBORS - - = - = 156
Five ILLUSTRATIONS
Sleepy Heads—Summer Care of Azalea Indica—Why is
Hardiness?p—Plants for the Shady Border—Dahlias, but
no Flowers. Why? — Sunshades for Peonies — Peeps
Into Other People’s Gardens—More Opinions About
Quarantine No. 37—Comments on Recent Iris Notes.
THROUGH THE GARDEN GATE - Louise B. Wilder
Photograph by Arthur Eldredge
PROPER PRUNING OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.
M. G. Kains
Photographs by author and Arthur Eldredge
PopriIES FOR EVERYMAN’S GARDEN7- G. W. Kerr 161
Photographs by the author, H. Troth and Gladys Sinclair
159
160
Two Ties From CoMMERCIAL GROWERS - - - 162
WIinpow AND Porca Boxes - - A. S. Thurston
Photographs by Arthur Eldredge, Horace McFarland and
others "
163
GLADIOLUS FOR GENERAL PLANTING
Montague Chamberlin 164
Photographs by G. W. Kerr and others
Tue Wortp’s Brest FOR OuR Own GArDENS—IT
FE. I. Farrington 166
Photographs by Arthur Eldredge, A. W. Simon, H.Troth
and others
Tue WALKS oF YOUR GARDEN - - F. H. Gott 168
Plans by the author, photographs by Arthur Eldredge
and J. M. Elliott :
My Garven or Desire - Marguerite Hey Kelly 169
Photographs by the author
Porttmnc STRAWBERRIES AS AN ART
Archibald Rutledge 170
Photographs by the author
Farr TREATMENT OF TREES - EL. L. D. Seymour 171
Photographs supplied by J. T. Withers, The Perry Pic-
tures and the United States Forest Service - .
Tur Monru’s REMINDER - - - - - - 174,176
MepAL CoMMEMORATIVE OF WAR GARDENS - - 178
CarTOON BY DooGUE - - = - - - - - - 178
Cominc Events, CLus AND Society NEWS - = 180
Lzonarp Barron, Editor
VOLUME XXIX, No. 4.
Published Monthly, asc. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year.
For Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Curcaco: Peoples Gas Bldg. Boston: Tremont Bldg.
Los AnceLes: Van Nuys Bldg. New York: 120 W. 32nd St.
F, N. DOUBLEDAY, President i
ARTHUR W. PAGE, VESULE S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
HERBERT S. HOUSTON, RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
Vice-Presidents Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879
Es La
=| ‘mm ~ no a
ia tf
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Mayazine in writing—and we will, too
an
ER tt el ce cee
May, 1919 THE
GARDEN MAGAZINE 151
Farr’s Hardy Plant Specialties
For Early Spring Planting
es AFTER YEAR the hardy garden grows
more charming and valuable as the plants in-
crease in size and blooming power. Early spring is
a desirable time for selecting and planting
most perennials and shrubs.
In my comprehensive collection at
Wyomissing may be found plants suitable
for every phase of gardening. A few of
these are here noted—to list them all would
be impossible.
_ IRISES. An unusual and distinctive collection including many novel-
ties of my own raising (awarded the Panama-Pacific Gold Medal).
ONIES. The most complete collection of herbaceous and tree
Peonies in the world.
DELPHINIUMS, PHLOXES, CHRYSANTHEMUMS,
TROLLIUS, LONGSPURRED AQUILEGIAS,
HARDY ASTERS, NEW ASTILBE, ROSES, DAHLIAS.
New Japanese and Asiatic Shrubs. New cotoneasters, enkian-
thus, berberies, flowering cherries, corylopsis, etc.
Lilacs, Philadelphus and Deutzias.
Lemoine’s new creations. ‘
arf Evergreens. Mare specimens for formal gardens, lawn groups
and rock garden plantings.
A complete list of my collection of Hardy Plants and Shrubs
will be found in
Farr’s Hardy Plant Specialties
(Sixth Edition, issue of 1918) 112 pages of text, 30 full page
illustrations (13 in color). Most well-informed gardeners have
a copy, but if you have not received it, or it has been mislaid,
a duplicate will be sent promptly on request.
BERTRAND H. FARR
Wyomissing Nurseries Co.
104 Garfield Ave., Wyomissing, Penna.
A complete collection of
Planning the Garden. So many haye asked me to help them plan their gardens
that I have found it necessary to form a special department in charge of a skilled land-
scape designer and plantsman. I will be glad to assist you in any way desired by off-
hand suggestions, or by the preparation of detailed plans for which a charge will be
made.
he Ground !
One user says that’s what happened
to his tree after a few feeds of the
odorless liquid fertilizer
=m FERTIL
We won’t promise similar results for you
but really Nitro-Fertile contains the more im-
portant plant foods in such easily assimilable
form that the results some times seem
marvelous.
)
J}
flowers
lawns
vegetables
Then too—it is fed regularly every few
weeks throughout the growing season when
by old-fashioned methods the plants would
be starved.
SSSA RTS OTSA
thrive
Your dealer has it or should have it.
Ns
The Fertile Chemical Company
601 ELLASTONE BUILDING
CLEVELAND, O., - - U.S. A.
Trial? Of Course
Send 25c for a small 10 day
test sample.
&
Of course you want a Greenhouse
Ee rONe does who loves a garden;
because a greenhouse laughs at winter's
frosts and’ snows, and the flowers go on
blooming merrily all the year ‘round.
With a Lutton V-Bar Greenhouse you are
sure to get the utmost in results with the least
expenditure for heating and maintenance.
Come in and talk it over with us, or
tell us when we may call upon you. You
will be under no obligation whatever.
WILLIAM H. LUTTON COMPANY
V-BAR GREENHOUSES
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es 512 FIFTH AVENUE in )- ee NEWYORK 3
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FACTORY: JERSEY CITY, N.J.
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SS:
Cedar Hill Nursery
Brookville, Long Island, New York
LILACS
Rare Shrubs, Iris and Peonies
Three Wonderful New Yellow Tree Peonies
$35.00
25.00
25.00
Souvenir du. Prof. Maxime Cornu - - =
La Lorraine = = = = = = =
L’Esperance =- = = = = = rs
Three year plants from six inch pots
Visitors are always welcome
Lilacs in bloom about May 15th
Iris in bloom about June Ist
Peonies in bloom about June 10th
No new catalogue until September
If you love flowers and plants we can show you many
interesting things
Please do not write for ordinary and common things —
we do not keep them
Albert Ladohny
Manager
T. A. Havemeyer
Proprietor
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
—
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
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No post hole digger or maul necessary. One person can erect this fencing with ease.
Ideal for fencing in young chicks, duck-
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If you want a fence that is easy to erect and take down,
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by giving this system a trial.
Send money order, check, New York draft or
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7 ft. long x 5 ft. high $4.13 B é C
2 ft. Gin. long x 5 ft. high (gate) $1.76 upon request with six cents in stamps to cover
8 ft. long x 2 ft. high $2.20 postage.
6 ft. long x 2 ft. high $1.76 BUFFALO WIRE WORKS CO.
(Formerly Scheeler’s Sons)
467 Terrace Buffalo, N. Y.
May, 1919
out of
Gardening
Just push this machine through your gar-
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mower), destroy the weeds and at the same
time break up the clods and crust into a
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Go over your garden with a BARKER after
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making three garden tools in one.
FREE Booklet
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Write for our free book of information about
gardening. Fully illustrated. Shows the Barker
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BARKER MFG. CO.
Dept. 11 David. City, Neb.
SAM
DAHLIAS are the wondrous results of years of hybridizing exper-
iments in crossing and recrossing the choicest English, French and
Holland varieties. They are marvelously beautiful in both coloring
and form, have strong stems and are excellent as cut flowers.
M. G. TYLER _ 1%60.DERBY STREET
PORTLAND, OREGON
6“ . , |
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Stone and VWVood”
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Your Fences Will Look Better and Last Longer with
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No matter what fence improvements you are planning, it will be
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Our prices are now moderate, we can assure prompt ship-
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ENTERPRISE IRON WORKS
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Our catalogue will give you many sug-
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THE FISCHER & JIROUCHasES:
4825 Superior Avenue
CLEVELAND - y , :
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Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
May, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
153
Make Things Grow by Right Pruning
The big oranges, the rich rosy apples the kiddies like so
well, the American Beauty rose—all are the products of
experts. Growers and florists who know exactly how, as well
as the kind of pruning shears to use—Pexto.
The kind they use is none too good for you. You want
your trees, shrubs, and hedges to grow and thrive.
And Pexto Pruning Shears will help you get these good
results. You can identify the Pexto Dealer by Pexto Tool
Displays—displays of specially selected kinds.
A Practical Pruning Guide
The Little Pruning Book by F. F. Rockwell, a widely
known writer with practical pruning experience, tells how,
when, and where to prune for the most vigorous and
healthy growth. Sent prepaid for 50 cents (48 pages).
THE PECK. STOW & WILCOX COMPANY
Southington, Conn. Cleveland, Ohio
Address correspondence to 2186 W. Third St., Cleveland, O.
100% American for 100 Years}
FOUNDED IN 1819
HODGSON fess
THEN you build the Hodgson way, a cottage, bun-
galow, play house or garage is the work of experts.
Hodgson Portable Houses are designed by men
with the requirements of such building at their finger tips;
the sections are constucted by carpenters far above the
average in skill and experience; they require no technical
knowledge toset up. Every corner and every piece fits
snug and tight—proof against rain and wind.
_You can tell from the catalogue how a Hodgson House
will look, down to the rose-trellis or the tight little win-
dow box—and remember that it is bound to be right.
There is no chance for a slip-up in the building due to
indefinite plans or bungling workmen.
Hodgson Houses mean any sort of house—cheery little bird
houses, sturdy kennels and poultry houses, one to ten room cottages,
churches and barracks.
Send for our catalogue now.
E. F. HODGSON CO.
71-73 Federal Street, Boston, Mass.
6 East 39th St., New York City
Room 228
Springtime
at Mayfair
means meadow and woodland gay with Daffo-
dils, gardens glorious with the stately Tulips.
Your own personality—not the salesman’s,
nor the catalogue’s, not even your neighbor’s
—will be expressed in your garden, if you
spend an hour at Mayfair choosing the
varieties you wish to have next Spring.
The Flowers Wait For You
and I will gladly tell you when to come. If
you are too far away, my Blue Book is the
best substitute for a personal visit. If you
cannot come, my Blue Book will go to you.
CHESTER JAY HUNT
Mayfair
Dept. A Little Falls, New Jersey
“RAIN’S ONLY RIVAL”
As gentle as spring rains and as refreshing, Brooks Sprinkling System is always at
the beck and call of friends of pretty lawns. The turn of a valve turns drouth into
refreshing moisture, gives the lawn that velvety emerald hue we all greatly admire.
Special Sprinklers, set level with the ground, are connected with a special system of
underground pipes which, from the turn of one valve assure uniform pressure and feed-
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The automatic nozzles are perfection in themselves. When at work, inner parts
rise automatically. When not in use, they disappear and become harmless disks
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Perfect drainage makes Brooks System frostproof. Perfect installation by our own
plumbing department does not mar the prettiest lawns. You who are fond of lawn
comforts and beauty owe it to yourself to investigate the merits of the Brooks System
TO-DAY. Please send for free booklet. Plans and estimates furnished without charge.
JOHN A. BROOKS, 441 Penobscot Bldg., Detroit, Mich.
= Sa SOT RRR x
ii \
Sith Inigating
Fools af trees
with) water)
left In pipes.
Advertisers will appreciale your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, loo
154 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Narcissus
Empress,
per 100
Hyacinth La
Grandesse,
$2.25 per doz.
Darwin Tulips
per 100, $2.75
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Mail the coupon below or send a postal. Look over the
Sp ecial Offers Which catalogue—page after page of imported bulbs—the very flowers
‘ z you want. :
this Book Contains
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, Crocus, give, for a small outlay of time and money,
an abundance of flowers in the house from December until Easter, and in the
garden from earliest spring until the middle of May.
ine Mixed Hyecnthe act cgan. | BIG_SHORTAGE OF BULBS EXPECTED!
ip icapekpe omen Se ORDER YOUR SUPPLY AT ONCE.
Fine Mixed Si i }
2 j ase Tulip Bt ee Advices from big growers in Holland indicate great scarcity of bulbs this coming
Fine Mixed Darwin Tulips 2.75 12.50 season and enough cannot be grown to meet the demand. To insure getting your
Candidum Lilies $1.50 (doz.) 10.50 supply send us your order at once. Until July Ist not later our present low prices
i for the choicest varieties of bulbs grown by specialists in Holland will hold good.
Double Daffodils .... 4.00 18.50 By ordering from us now instead of waiting until fall, you make a large saving,
get a superior quality of bulbs not usually to be obtained at any price in this
Narcissus Emperor Mon- ; he
ce 6.50 29.00 country, and have a much larger list of varieties to select from.
sters
ey: Our orders are selected and packed in Holland, and are shipped to our cust
Narcissus Emperor Large . 4.75 22.00 immediately upon their arrival in the best possible condition. aa
Narcissus Empress Mon-
ee eee 6.00 28.00 DIRECT FROM SPECIALISTS
Our connections abroad make it possible for us to buy bulbs from the best
specialist of that variety. Every bulb shown in the catalogue you get direct from
growers who have made a life study of the flowers they grow; thus you are assured
20.00 bulbs of the first quality.
Narcissus Empress Large . 4.50 21.00
Narcissus Golden Spur
Large’. cece es -
Paper White Narcissus . . 2.75 11.00 ORDER NOW—PAY WHEN DELIVERED
Sapte - To take advantage of the very low prices offered in this catalogue, we must have
rices for hundreds of varieties and for your order not later than July Ist, but it is much safer to order before June Ist as
smaller quantities are shown in this cata- we import bulbs to order only. They need not be paid for until after delivery,
logue. It is the most comprehensive bulb nor taken if not of a satisfactory quality.
catalogue published. Fill out the coupon or send a postal for catalogue to-day.
FREE—Write for it now. ELLIOTT NURSERY CO.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
367 FOURTH AVE. PITTSBURG, PA. fe
May, 1919
Lilium
Candidum, per
doz. $1.50
Dutch Bulbs
Read What These
People Say
Finest he ever saw! “‘I have received
my order of gladiolus, and they are the finest
I ever saw. The tulips and peonies that} I
bought last fall have grown splendidly.” —H.
T. F., Bangor, Me.
Always perfect! “Your splendid bulbs arrived:
Enclosed find twenty-five dollars. As always, the
stock you sent is perfect.’ —A. G. W., Galesburg, Ills.
More than delighted! ‘The bulbs I ordered
from you are now in bloom in all their glory. I am
more than delighted with them and shall send another
order.” —M. F. B., Clinton, Ills.
Admiration of the town! “I want to tell
you how magnificent my daffodils are. They /
are the admiration of the town, and have #
given us untold pleasure. Each daffodit is U4
the size of a tea cup. Many bulbs have
four flowers and not one has failedto 7
produce two.” —G. D. S., Union- ;7
town, Ala. 04
7
Surpasses tulip beds We emo are?)
in city parks. ‘I have 7 bee ing 0°
a bed of tulips from / oi oO a a
bulbs purchased from / a} : : x”
you. It surpasses c af }
anything I have / Ye oP o> ago «
seen in the ya . oP ae Pap a
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Cordell. 47°. \in” Sai cael Seas
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The Garden Magazine
V OLUME XXIX
Quarantine No. 37
HE impending operation of this obnox-
ious “quarantine” continues to be the
topic of liveliest mterest for discussion
among horticulturists generally. Let
there be no misunderstanding or confusion about
this law. It ison the books and the quarantine
goes into effect June first; and inasmuch as the
officials are satished with their work it will stand
as long as the present officials are in office, ap-
parently.
Horticulturists should pattern themselves
along the lines of the prohibitionists and other
reformers; and see to it that when the power is
in their hands that with a changed congress and
new,offcials a reasonable modification be brought
about. Unfortunately oficialdom apparently fails
to appreciate any distinction between the require-
ments of gardens and of forests. They have no
appreciation for the Roses, Peonies, Phloxes,
Larkspurs of English, French, or Dutch origin;
the ornamental delights of our gardens such as
Bay, Box, Rhododendrons that come from Bel-
gium—to them all these things have no ex-
istence. The dealers in these plants are as anxious
as anybody in the world to have stock healthy and
clean.
- That confusion of ideas exists is plain enough;
but, of course, there are none so blind as those
who will not see, and the members of the Federal
Horticultural Board—specialists trained to look
for disease and insect parasites and for nothing
else—see danger and a menace in everything they
examine. That is the common reaction of the
specialists—lack of contact with their fellow men
and inability to appreciate any but their own
points of view.
According to recent information, it would
appear that the decision to impose the quaran-’
tine at this time was brought about by outside
influences. That the board (to its credit let it
be said) was working on the basis of bringing
about practically complete exclusion of foreign
plants somewhere about the year 1925; that the
War Trade Board, in view of the difficulty of
getting shipping space during the height of the
fighting effort of the great war saw here an
opportunity to commandeer space on cargo ships
at the expense of the horticultural industry; and
that therefore, at the suggestion of the War
Trade Board, the members of the Federal Hor-
ticultural Board were induced to promulgate a
drastic order in advance of the time originally
intended.
The horticulturists have not been behind other
people in supporting the nation’s effort in the
war; which, perhaps, has affected their industry
in even a greater degree than almost any other.
- feeling of comfort.
MAY,1919
As a war measure the horticultural trade would
undoubtedly be quite willing to forego the in-
troduction of foreign plant material; and garden
owners would not ask that freight space be taken
up unnecessarily for materials that would be an
embellishment to their gardens. But, before
any benefit from this action could result the war
became a thing of the past! The need no longer
existed, but the order had been issued and must
“stand forever.”
Since the last number of THE GarDEN Maca-
ZINE went to press a modifying order has been
issued by the Secretary of Agriculture as follows:
AMENDMENT NO. 2 TO REGULATIONS SUPPLEMENTAL
TO NOTICE OF QUARANTINE NO. 37
Under authority conferred by the plant quarantine act of August
20, 1912 (37 Stat., 315), it is ordered that Regulation 14 of the Rules
and Regulations Supplemental to notice of Quarantine No. 37 Gov-
erning the Importation of Nursery Stock and Other Plants and Seeds
into the United States, effective June 1, 1919, be, and the same is
hereby, amended to read as follows: Regulation 14. Special per-
mits for importation in limited quantities of prohibited stock.
Application may be made to the Secretary of Agriculture for spe-
cial permits for the importation, in limited quantities and under
safeguards tobe prescribed in such permits, of nursery. stock and
other plants and seeds not covered by the preceding regulations
for the purpose of keeping the country supplied with new varieties
and necessary propagating stock: Provided, That this shall not apply
to nursery stock and other plants and seeds covered by special
quarantines and other restrictive orders now in force, nor to such
as may hereafter be made the subject of special quarantines. A list
of nursery stock and other plants and seeds covered by special quar-
antines and other restrictive orders now in force is given in Appendix
A of these regulations.
Done in the District of Columbia this 27th day of March, 1919.
Witness my hand and the seal of the United States Department
D. F. Houston,
Secretary of Agriculture.
of Agriculture.
By this amendment, the secretary, in effect,
seems to take the stand that he is open to convic-
tion; but is like the proverbial Irish debator who
also was open to conviction but “would like to
see the man who could convince me.”
Unfortunately for horticulturists and garden-
ers past experiences with the tender mercies of
authorities at Washington in handling novelty
introductions from abroad does not create any
To cite one instance in par-
ticular, the splendid collection of Japanese
Cherries that Mr. E. H. Wilson gathered in his
tour of Japan, would not be in existence in this
country to-day if dependence had been placed
solely on the shipment of specimens that was
consigned through the authorities at Washington.
Unquestionably it is the business of our officials
to protect us and the larger industries of the
country from importations of any destructive
influence, but it seems a confession of weakness
to take the stand that the only way to prevent
the importation of an insect-infested plant is to
forbid the importation of a healthy one. ;
We hold no brief for dealers in plants who are
solely importers of foreign material. A great
155
NuMBER 4
deal of the foreign stuff that comes into this
’ country is a detriment to our national garden
art, not because of its diseased or infested char-
acter, but because it is of a type that does not
fit into American soil and climate.- But that
is beside the question. Unfortunately some
nurserymen lack sufhcient faith in the future
possibilities of their own business to do more
than act as brokers for what has been produced
and tried out abroad. It remains to be seen
whether their attitude will be changed in the
near future, or whether, with a closed market,
these same people will be content to remain
unprogressive; simply propagating the material
from such stock as they already have on hand.
Will You Share Your Seeds With
France?
HAVE you bought all your seeds—especially
your vegetable seeds—for your 1919 garden
yet? If not, or if in the near future you have
occasion to send in a supplementary order, don’t
you want to share a little part of it with the men
and women and children who are striving against
pitifully tremendous odds to reclaim devastated
France?
Word comes to us that there is a severe short-
age of garden seeds over there, as well as an in-
sufficient supply of tools and implements. Even
if there were plenty to buy, many of the peasant
families have lost practically all their possessions
during the war and are in no position to buy
seed, notwithstanding the vital importance of
securing as many crops as possible this summer
to meet the needs of another year—a year of
dificult, up-hill gradual reconstruction. And
the worst of it is that these families are, many of
them, experienced in intensive gardening to an
extent that we over here are hardly familiar with.
Think of it—knowledge, skill and experience,
an ardent desire, a more than ready willingness
to toil, and above all a dire need for the food that
it could result in—all these in unlimited amount,
and no seeds wherewith to carry on the work!
If, therefore, when you send in a seed order,
you will ask for a little more than you really need,
even a half a dozen packets, and will send that
surplus to the American Committee for Devas-
tated France, 16 East 39th Street, New York
City, it will be sent immediately overseas, to be
put in the hands of a struggling French peasant
or his wife or his children who will treasure it
and give it greater care and attention than you
can imagine. ‘This is such a little thing to do as
measured by what America has already done,
but it will mean so much to France. Can you
let the opportunity slip by?
156
THE GARDEN
MAGAZINE
May, 1919
$e eo Y
SS wy}
| Ofe OPEN COLUMN®
Readers Interchanges 9f Experiences )
Wee SE 2nd Ideas _ve eS
Sleepy Heads.—I fear I can add but little to
the list of “Sleepy Heads,” (page 66 of March)
at least before the spring work, but Cassia mari-
landica certainly belongs among them, and I can’t
help but feel that the bright green Thermopsis
and the bushy Amsonia belong there too. I should
like to add the dull reddened, almost earth-colored
fronds of the lovely blue Anemone apennina, or
even the curls of dark colored Columbines as
things to beware of. Later in the season all the
bulbs keep being forgotten and I wonder if others
have felt the same reluctance to replant a much
be-bulbed border.—R. S. Sturtevant, Mass.
Summer Care of Azalea Indica—Now that
our government threatens to prevent the import-
ing of Azaleas and other nursery stock, it be-
hooves one to take good care of the specimens he
already possesses, that they may blossom during
the years to come. I have an Indian Azalea
which has blossomed for six consecutive years in
the window garden, and which has grown from a
plant about eighteen inches in diameter to a
strong bush nearly three feet across. Last
summer we varied the treatment usually given
it, and instead of plunging it in the garden in a
half shaded spot, we set it on the uncovered end
of the southern veranda, where it had direct
sunlight from nine in the morning to three in the
afternoon. It was watered daily unless there
was rain, and the pot was turned frequently to
insure uniform growth. The result was that we
had a much better shaped plant than ever be-
fore, completely set with buds, a goodly number
of which were open on Christmas day, and now
(the middle of March) the last blossoms are be-
ginning to go. Even if you have neglected the
Azalea given you at Christmas or Easter and
have thrust it into the cellar, thinking that its
day was done, bring it out and see if something
can be done to revive it. Remove the top
layer of earth and put in fresh potting soil which
has a good percentage of leaf mould. If there
are any straggling branches cut them off, so that
the plant is fairly symmetrical. Set the pot in
a sunny corner of porch or veranda, water well
and turn frequently, so that the sun reaches all
sides of it. Young shoots will soon start, and
by the end of summer the centre of each tip should
show a small fat cone; these are flower buds.
The top layer of soil should be again replaced
with fresh earth and the plant brought indoors
about the first of September, or before danger of
frost. Keep in a cool, sunny window, turn the
plant frequently and spray daily, if possible,
with lukewarm water.—Mrs. James F. Burke,
North Easton, Mass.
Why Is Hardiness? In the paragraph entitled
Decorative Dwarf Buckeyes (March, 1919),
the author expresses surprise that a Buckeye,
native to the South from Georgia to Texas, should
prove hardy in New England.
few other things of the South that prove hardy
even as far north as North Dakota, among
them being the Prickly-pear Cactus and the Span-
ish Bayonet. Now all of this is of interest only
as it points in the direction in which we must
seek for the characteristic that makes plants
hardy. We shall find many more plants of the
South hardy in the North*as we come to try them.
What seems to be required is a relatively thin
sap that can freeze, endure evaporation while
frozen and come out in spring still sufficiently
dilute so as not to interfere seriously with those
life functions of the plant that we seek to explain
under the terms capillarity and osmosis. Here
is a common every day example. Tulips and
Hyacinths can both be grown in North Dakota
with’ this difference that whereas but one year
in ten may be a good Hyacinth year, every year
is a good Tulip year. Why? A Tulip almost
ready to bloom may freeze brittle as glass and
still bloom but a Hyacinth overtaken by a severe
frost even much earlier in its growth is done for.
Crush with your fingers a Tulip leaf or stem and
you will find a thin sap. Do likewise with a
Hyacinth and you will find the sap thick and
viscous enough to pull out into strings. I claim
no certainty in the matter, but all my observa-
tions seems to indicate that the plant with a
thin sap has a much better chance of proving
hardy in our Northern climate than a plant with
a thick, viscous or mucilaginous sap. Where
the plant with the thin sap originated does not ap-
pear to affect the result—C. L. Meller.
Plants for the Shady Border.—A border meant
to keep the neighbors’ dogs, the grocers’ boys, and
the newspaper man (our milkman must have a
garden of his own, as he goes around) from cutting
across the lawn, follows a path part of which is
shaded all day by tall Maples. Jonquils, Prim-
roses, Forget-me-nots, and Columbine are lovely
before the Maples are in full leaf but when the
Lilium auratum bloomed there was nothing to
lend support to its tall slender stems. An appeal
to Mr. Edward Gillett, whose name | found in
the Garpen Macazine, for something from the
woods brought Eupatorium ageratoides which
has proved a great success. It forms rather
bushy plants three feet high with white feathery
puffs of flowers that last until the wild Asters
open to take their place-—G. D. Beadel.
Dahlias, but no Flower. Why?—Every time
I read an article on the Dahlia I feel just like
groaning—telling us what we already know and
refusing to touch on the thing that is making it
impossible to produce any flowers in this section
of the country! We have always found the mere
culture and winter care of Dahlia easy enough;
but, since the appearance in this territory of the
tarnished plant bug, it is out of the question to
get any flowers. This bug appears about the
time the plants get ready to flower, and it is
then “all over” with them. If buds appear they
all blast. Mostly the whole plant stands still
and refuses to grow, at least to any extent, till the -
bug leaves, which is sometimes too late for any
blossoms before frost. Once in a while we get
a few. Last season I had just one blossom and
I had vigorous plants in a good place. So
when the article on Dahlias appeared on page
65 of March I was eager to see if our difficulty
had been solved, but not a word on the bug!
Now, good Dahlia raisers, Do you know how to
Well, there area .
handle this dificulty? If you do please be so
kind as to tell us. Maybe the bug has not
reached you yet. But it will and then you will |
be right where we are. It has been here a long
time. Year after year we plant, in the hope
that the pest will be gone or forget our particular
garden. But, no; it is with us yet, coming from
where we cannot discover, yielding to no treat-
ment, getting into no traps. What are we todo?
—John W. Chamberlin, New York.
Sunshades for Peonies.—Every Peony grower
knows what it means to have a hard rain beat
down and shatter his blossoms until his favorite
flowers have been ruined. One hard, beating
rain may spoil the appearance of a whole garden.
One reason for screening Peonies is to obviate such
a possibility. Another is to protect the more
delicate colors from the sun. Certain of the
most beautiful Peonies fade quickly in bright
sunlight. It is a common custom among growers
to cut such varieties in the bud, allowing the -
flowers to unfold in the house. This treatment
is not necessary if screens are used, and better
flowers will be produced in the open air. And so:
Mr. William Rollins, of Boston, an enthusiastic
Peony grower, devised a type of screen which
he has used with great satisfaction at his country
place in New Hampshire. In describing these |
screens Mr. Rollins says that the uprights extend
four feet above the ground, and are set about three
feet apart. The frames are very durable and
strong, being made of iron. For the smaller -
plants they extend four feet above the ground,
while six foot iron posts are used for the tall
growers. The uprights are set about three feet
apart. Light iron rafters a quarter of an inch
in diameter are placed across the top of the up-
rights to hold the cloth covers, and are held to-
gether at the apex of the roof by a cross shaped
bronze casting into which they are screwed. ‘Ihe
other end of each rafter is screwed into a bronze
eye, and these eyes are attached to the uprights .
by bronze castings made hollow to receive the
tops of the castings to which they are fastened
by screws. This arrangement was designed to:
make possible the quick erection and removal
of the screens. They can be taken apart and
stored, if necessary, with but little trouble.
The roof is made of cotton drilling, and dyed
suitable tints to help in excluding the actinic
rays of the sun. The covers are held in place
by cords attached to the rafters. In writing
about his Peonies some time ago Mr. Rollins
pointed out a way to have them in the best of
condition for exhibition: they should be grown
in tubs sunk in the ground, and lifted at exhibi—
tion time.—E. J. Farrington.
Sunshades for Peonies as provided by Mr. Rollins of New Hampshire to preserve the coloring in all its delicacy. Small shades for
individual blooms or adjustable rods have long been in use among “the fancy”’ for Roses, Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, etc.
Peeps Into Other People’s Gardens
Note: Tue Garpen Macazine will be glad to make reproductions of good photographs of beautiful gardens, or of interesting bits of planting,
with a view to giving practical help to other readers, and will gladly pay for good pictures.
Photographs must be clear and must convey a dis-
tinct lesson or illustrate some definite idea carried inio effect, and must of course be accompanied by a suitable, concise explanation or description.
You would gladly have other gardeners visit your own garden but the whole world cannot come to you.
So, won’t you do what you can to help
your garden neighbors by giving them the opportunity to peep into your garden through the camera? THE GaRDEN Macazine will give a cash
honor prize to the best picture of the best garden each month. '
«« Surely no one should be without flowers, be the space large or small,” says Mrs. Greenleaf Clarke, Mass., in submitting these pictures
of her own garden
This fairy-bloom consists of an Ageratum border with blue Salvia farinacea and Gaura in the
It is a charming combination, and for those who desire the unusual one that will be in-
teresting to try. The pictures cannot possibly do justice to these plantings
centre.
Three packets of seeds produced this lovely profusion of August and September bloom and an
exquisite blending of color makes the garden a joy to passers-by. The border is made up of salmon
Pink, buff Drummond’s Phlox, and blue Verbena—one of the loveliest summer borders ever seen
More Opinions About Quarantine No. 37
Quarantine No 37.—As originators and _ in-
troducers of new Iris we should perhaps consider
this ruling of advantage and in regard to the
necessity for some such restriction there is no
doubt in our minds; but in detail it seems unnec-
essarily prohibitive from one point of view and
from the other not sufficiently strict. Importa-
tion of novelties through the government bureau
is possible but with the remembrance of past
occasions (the Wilson Cherries for example)
attended with a great risk of delay or even com-
plete loss. In time, the nurserymen of the
United States will undoubtedly be able to make
up all deficiencies, but particularly after the
disastrous business conditions due to the war
it will prove “some” job and very likely fatal
to many small interests and it should be remem-
bered that in a great many lines of horticultural
development we are far behind our friends
abroad—a fact we should take advantage of
rather than put completely to one side. I was
pleased to note that the English government is
collecting data in regard to their exportations
and is apparently planning to protest our pro-
posed restrictions. In all, our protest is not
based on the fact of a large amount of restric-
tion but on the inequalities of the present form
of the proposed regulation, that in many points
does not seem to secure the desired results. As
an example take the case of the destructive corn
borer which has been said to have been intro-
duced in a shipment of hemp.—R. S. Sturtevant,
Glen Roads Iris Gardens.
*We are very much interested in the discussion
of Quarantine No. 37. One of our trade papers
advises that while the members of the Federal
Horticultural Board are much exercised over
bringing in a little soil with plants from other
countries, they forget that ships are ballasted
with soil which is freely dumped on this side
without any inspection. We wonder how it
comes that we dare bring in bananas, pineapples,
Malaga grapes, etc. We wonder how any one
dares to pack anything in moss for shipment
here. And how about cocoanuts? May they
not be fruitful source of trouble? We have a
vivid remembrance that the last case of foot and
mouth disease among cattle came past the fed-
eral government inspectors on imported hides,
and the spread of the disease cost stockmen
millions of dollars’ loss. . Maybe the government
can not trust its own inspectors.
It seems to us that the theory advanced in your
columns that this quarantine 1s an exclusion act,
taking the place of a tariff, is very well founded.
We think also that the entire act is pro-German,
because it admits Lily-of-the-valley (which
comes, we believe, principally from Germany),
and Dutch bulbs (which come from Holland
—a country that certainly was not violently
anti-German during the war) while flatly refus-
ing to admit exactly similar bulbs and _ plants
which would ordinarily come from France,
England, and Belgium. It happens that we
handle Gladiolus, Dahlias, Peonies and _ Iris
very much more extensively than we do Dutch
bulbs. We purchase the four plants named in
car lots, while we handle the Dutch bulbs more
in wheelbarrow loads. We are not unaware
that America produces many very beautiful
varieties in all of these roots and bulbs, but
we are also thoroughly aware of the fact that
France and England have been indispensable
in hybridizing and introducing very wonderful
new things along these lines. The quarantine
now says to us that we must discontinue com-
mercially bringing in the rare new things we
need, while some of our competitors who han-
dle the Dutch bulbs more extensively are per-
mitted to proceed without interruption.—Chas.
B. Wing, President Wing Seed Co., Mechanics-
burg, Ohio.
I have made quite a study of Quarantine No.
37 and while I have not talked personally with
the Federal Horticultural Board, I think I have
their viewpoint. Like most rulings of the kind,
there are good and bad points in this quarantine,
but I consider the ruling much too drastic. I
believe in taking the utmost precaution to pre-
vent the introduction of insect pests and fungous
diseases. I believe, however, that Quarantine
No. 37 does not do this, for the past has shown
157
that our worst pests have come in otherwise
than on ornamental plant material. I favor a
very strict inspection of material in Europe and
again in the United States, but it seems to me to
be a mistake to debar any plants which cannot
be produced in America or cannot be grown
as economically here as abroad.
One large grower of Astilbe japonica told me
recently that he feared last fall he could not
get shipments for forcing so he took up clumps
he had grown in the nursery. Later he got an
importation of clumps, and was going to throw
out all the plants he had grown here during
summer, for they were sending out very few
flower spikes in comparison with the imported
plants. It is my opinion that Araucarias,
Azaleas, Bay trees, Boxwood, and Orchids cer-
tainly should be admitted under strict inspec-
tion. I do not worry as much over the importa-
tions of Roses so long as Rose stocks and a
limited number of novelties are admitted, for
I have confidence that our American nursery-
men can handle the problem; but the buying
public cannot expect in the future to buy two-
year-old plants for thirty-five or fifty cents as
they have in the past.
I need not go into a lengthy discussion of the
quarantine, for so much has been printed that
repetition of thought is useless and little now
remains to be said. The Plant Industry Con-
ference at Cornell University held a long dis-
cussion of the subject on March 4th,.and the
plant pathologists, entomologists, as well as
members of the Departments of Floriculture and
Landscape Art and practically all departments
in the College of Agriculture working with plants,
were of the opinion that the enforcement of
Quarantine No. 37 would be very detrimental
to American horticulture. I have written
Secretary Houston and members of the Federal
Horticultural Board that I personally believed
it should be modified, and have expressed the
same opinion for the American Rose Society
and the New York Federation of Horticultural
Societies and Floral Clubs, of which organiza-
tions I am secretary.—E. 4d. White, Cornell
University, Ithaca, N. Y.
Comments on Recent Iris Notes
The Fall Flowering Iris has called forth some
interesting notes. On reading Mrs. Wilder’s
quotation from Mr. W. R. Dykes’s letter I im-
mediately betook myself to his published books
for I find that opinions are constantly being
ad&pted to the results of more recent experiments
in hybridization. ‘‘The Genus Iris” was, un-
fortunately on a loaning expedition but his de-
lightful small book ‘‘Irises” stated that lurida
was of unknown origin and might not be a really
good species; personally I should suggest varie-
gata x Cengialti as a possible parentage and I
wonder if any Iris enthusiasts have secured seed-
lings that might bear this out. In one of our
recent letters from Mr. Dykes he wrote that the
horticultural rather than the botanical point of
view was becoming of greatest interest. At
present only the orange bearded Goldcrest (light
to lavender violet, Ridgeway) and the newly
introduced Richard II are attributed to this
source as far as I know and it is a pleasure to look
forward to new Iris, though whether we shall be
allowed to import novelties remains to be seen.
The lutescens, by the way, that Mrs. McKinney
refers to so delightfully is probably lutescens var.
Statellae, as the type is described and, in our gar-
den, has proved lower growing and so less clearly
colored asto prove unpleasing. I wonderif many
are familiar} with] the fall blooming japogon Iris
dichotoma that Mr. B. Y. Morrison described in a
recent issue of the Journal of the International Gar-
den Club. (have not seen the tall much branched
stalk and small ivory white, purple blotched
flowers but seedlings came through the hard
winter of-1917-18 and I| expect to get blossoms
this August or September.—R. S. Sturtevant,
Mass.
Winter Blooming Iris— One of the most
frequently mentioned plants in the lists.of winter
flowers in the English garden papers is Iris
stylosa and its varieties. I have often wanted
to try this but have hesitated to expose the plants
to what seemed certain death. Last spring,
however, I obtained some fine clumps from a
California nursery and tried to make them happy
for an Eastern winter. With the exception of the
var. speciosa all had grown to good clumps by
autumn. ‘They were planted in a bed in which
the native heavy clay had been lightened with
sand and leaf mould liberally worked in. About
the plants was a generous mulch of leaf mould
and during the freezing weather burlap was laid
loosely over the
clumps, more as a
protection against
freezing of the
evergreen foliage
than for any ben-
efit to the roots.
By November,
buds were appar-
ent on most of the
plants but these
did not push into
growth till Feb-
ruary. The first
flower opened on
the var. marginata
on February four-
teenth. Others
followed, with the
var. alba in bloom
about two weeks
later. At the
present writing,
March fourteenth,
the type hasshown
no blooms, and
the var. speciosa
(which had lain
dormant all sum-
mer) is only push-
ing into growth.
Iris stylosa marginata (} nat. size)
Mar c
drawn ? h 3rd at Washington,
D.C.
Mrs. Dean writes me that this plant is one of the
most valuable of plants in southern California
where it is not as well known as it should be.
And certainly for the milder parts of the Eastern
coast states it is worth a place. The flowers in
the var. marginata, which is figured, are of a
delicate violet color, recalling the shades in the °
pallida Irises. The standards flare and spread
as in the Japanese Irises. They are self colored,
while the falls show veining in a slightly darker
color with a white patch at the turn of the blade.
Here too is a small patch of yellow as in most
Irises. There is a most delightful, though
delicate, fragrance. The one other charming
feature of the flowers is the delicate coloring, like
a sprinkling of gold dust that covers the upper
surfaces of the style arms. During the rough
weather of February and March these flowers
develop best if they are picked when still in the
bud state and opened in the house. They last
about three days. In cutting care should be
taken to cut far enough down as the flower has
practically no stem, and those flowers that I cut
through the extended perianth tube did not open.
—B. Y. Morrison, D. C
Iris lurida—Mrs. Wilder’s note on this was of
interest but its habit of throwing up a second crop
of blossoms seems an accident of position or, very
possibly of the particular plant; certainly in our
experience of fifteen years it has never bloomed
except at the usual time, a little earlier than the
great pageant of the Bearded Iris. Lurida,
though called a species, may be of hybrid origin
(see “The Genus Iris,’ W. R. Dykes) and the
origin of Mrs. Wilder’s plant may be different
from ours; whether this habit is inheritable might
be easily tested and might result in a new strain
of late-blooming Iris. Variation in time of bloom
is not unknown, though rarely is it of garden
effect and it may often be ascribed to some favor-
able condition of soil or weather. Iris pumila
hybrids frequently give,a fall bloom and occa-
sionally seedlings of spring germination flower
the same season: John Foster, a delightful little
pearl-white hybrid, gave a crop of taller, slender
stalks of bloom in late June during the wet season
of 1917: Mrs. Alan Gray often shows its pale pink-
lavender in the summer or fall, and Lorelei has
developed very late buds with undeveloped stems.
he comparatively small number of examples of
abnormal season of bloom suggests that it
is not an inheritable character but purely
due to environment, perhaps analagous to the
adaptation that plants develop when transferred
to the southern hemisphere.—R. S. Sturtevant,
Mass.
Iris for Cut Flowers.—In response to Mr. H.
G. Reading’s inquiries about purple Iris for cut
flowers, I should like to recommend the hybrids
of I. pallida, particularly Albert Victor, Man-
draliscae, and Mr. Farr’s Juniata, the tallest and
stateliest of the family. Mandraliscae’s great
spikes of rich purple, six to eight blossoms on the
stalk, make a gorgeous color note in garden or
room, and the rhizomes increase with great
rapidity. Juniata and Albert Victor rank among
the blues in color, but their stateliness, wonderful
shading, and delicate perfume should insure them
a place in any hardy garden. A much smaller
and later variety is Othello, of the neglecta sec-
tion, a delightful pansy purple on long stiff stems;
it also increases rapidly. Planted with white
I. sibirica it makes a lovely show; with I. Jacques-
iana it repeats the tones and textures of bronze
and purple Pansies. (I. Jacquesiana itself is as
wonderful as a Japanese carving of smoky quartz;
it is not included in this list of specially tough-
textured ones, as it requires an umbrella during
June hail storms; personally, however, I consider
it worth any trouble.) Then there is an early
purple German Iris, unknown to me by name,
that is common in old gardens in southern Penn-
158
_ autumn flowering of the
sylvania. It stands about 2 ft. high, three or
four blooms on a stem, bluish purple, with the falls
heavily veined with white. Its general character
is like that of the old florentina, and the two in
bloom together are a lovely sight, the pearly
delicacy of one enhancing the sturdy richness of
the other. Perhaps some of the neighbors can
help me identify this nameless favorite. My
garden is on a bleak north slope in Minnesota,
but it has six weeks of glory in May and June,
when twenty varieties of Iris follow each other in
prayerful procession, testifying to the endurance
of both drouth and frost of this delicately beau-
tiful Fleur-de-lis—Mary G. Starr, Excelsior,
Minn. :
Autumn Blooming Iris——In addition to the
flowers that one gets by the chance blooming of
various pogoniris, one may always have flowers
in the autumn from Iris dichotoma. This is a
Chinese species from the northern and western
provinces. The plants that I have were raised
from seed, sent to me by a friend in a small vil-
lage some ninety miles north fromPeking. There
the climate in winter brings very low tempera-
tures but little rain or snow, which is a very dif-
ferent condition from that in this country. The
seedlings, however, came through the severe win-
ter of 1917-1918 and flowered freely in August.
he blooming interval here was from August
fifteenth till September fifteenth, which is a little
shorter than in China where there were still
flowers on the plants on September twentieth
with more buds to come. ‘The plant suggests
Blackberry Lily (Pardanthus chinensis) in
growth producing a wide fan of leaves from
which rises the three to three-and-a-half foot,
widely branching stalk. Each bract covered
many flowers, which is well as the individual
blooms last but a single afternoon. The flowers
are not large—perhaps two and one-half inches
across. The standards flare back on a level
with the falls so that the flower has the open
appearance that one finds in the Evansia Inises.
In color the flowers vary from unspotted ivory
white to whites fairly
well covered with
splotches of dull
purple. It is said that
there are purple forms
but I have never had or
seen such a specimen.
The drawing illustrates
but a small portion of
a single stalk of bloom.
The plants are easily
raised. from seed and
flower within eighteen
months of sowing. This
is not so showy perhaps
as the occasional flow-
ers to be had on the
bearded Irises but it
can be depended upon,
since this is the correct
time for flowering. The
dwarf bearded Irises is
common experience,
but in spite of the note
of the autumn flower-
ing of Mrs. Alan Gray
in Wallaces’ English
list, I have never
known that variety to
flower in this country
in the autumn until [
read Mrs. McKinney’s
note in a recent issue
of the GarRDEN
MaGazInE. I am
curious to know if her
experience is the usual
one.—B. Y. Morrison.
Part of stalk of Iris
dichotoma; flowers ivory
white to dull white,
splotched dull purple (13
nat. size.)
Wafted into my room the scent of the flowers of
the Plum tree
Changes my broken window into a source of de-
light.
(From the Japanese by Lafcadio Hearn.)
The Fragrance of May
Nowadays I think we do not plan enough for
fragrance in our gardens. This color-scheming
is so enthralling that we are apt to forget that
quite as much of our garden pleasure comes
through our noses as through our eyes, and many
people who do not care for flowers in themselves
are moved by their fragrance.
Every spring when May comes round I am
grateful that there is a white Hawthorn just out-
side my bedroom window. It makes an entranc-
ing event of awakening. Just beyond is a thicket
of little half-wild Plum trees that, had Ia broken
mondo. would change it “into a source of de-
light.”
One of my favorite May perfumes is offered
by the little wild British Tulip, Tulipa sylvestris.
Its wide golden yellow blossoms flood the air
with a scent like that of hot house Violets.
Seven or eight years ago I set out a dozen or so
bulbs of this Tulip in the neighborhood of an old
Scotch Rose against the south wall of my garden.
In the spring two small reddish leaves were sent
up from each bulb but no blossoms. The second
spring, however, small pointed buds, bronze
coated upon slender stems appeared between the
clasping leaves and soon opened out into the wide,
fragrant yellow blossoms. Since then this small
Tulip has spread—and to have a Tulip spread is
’ very gratifying—until the old Scotch Rose is
surrounded and carpeted with them and there is
even a colony right in the gravel at the edge of a
near-by path. From this I argue that Tulipa
sylvestris has found conditions that exactly suit
it—shade shelter and good garden soil. From
time to time I transfer a few bulbs to the shade
of Lilacs or other shrubs about the garden and all
are doing well so that in time there will be hun-
dreds of little wild Tulips to add to the sweetness
of May. Of course its specific name, sylvestris,
would suggest a liking for shade, but this evidence
is not always to be depended upon. In the case
of Dianthus sylvestris, only the sunniest positions
in the garden suit it at all.
More About Sedums
Mrs. Rathbone’s delightful Sedum Adven-
tures (page I18) incite me to recount a few of my
own. These amiable plants have long consoled
me for the miffy behavior of certain other rock
plants that dwell, or decline to dwell, within my
garden gates. However Campanula this or that,
or Saxifrage the other may flout my efforts in
their behalf, or try my patience, there are always
Sedums in plenty doing exactly as they should
and setting an example that might well be taken
to heart by many. ‘These plants are particularly
well adapted to our dry, sunny American gar-
dens and if given a few stones to ramble among
are entirely happy.
The latest comer to my fold is Sedum dasy
eye. It is a Britisher, a little tufted thing
ut a few inches tall, with small gray leaves and
minute pink enameled blossoms. This, the
“Cyclopedia of American Horticulture” gives as
2 Lewis
one with S. glaucum, but Johnson allows them a
separate standing, but as I have not the latter
I can not compare them. Another of my favor-
ites is S. sarmentosum. This has quite pale
green leaves on slender, prostrate stems, and
flat-topped umbels of light yellow flowers. It
is a delightful plant for a sunny wall face for it
spreads out perfectly flat, seeming to cling to the
stones, instead of hanging in festoons as do so
many of its kind. Sedum Nevii is also a good
little plant of tufted growth that has made a
home for itself in a crevice of a low wall. It
bears many starry white flowers in widely forked
cymes held well above the rosettes of foliage.
The showiest of my collection, and one of the
most satisfactory for all sorts of purposes, is one
I found growing in a deserted garden between
flag stones by the kitchen door. It is Sedum
spurium, also known as S. stoloniferum, and
there is a white as well as a rose-colored variety.
Its long prostrate shoots root at the nodes and
the flowers are borne in a forked cluster on stems
several inches tall in summér. This must be an
old plant in American gardens, for I have news
from here and there of its having thrown off
hampering garden conditions and betaken itself
to the open roadside, and no recent arrival does
this. I wonder can it be Mrs. Rathbone’s
“Sedum tramp”! If so I should be delighted
to restore him to her. Material comforts seem
little necessary to this sturdy plant, for it will
grow anywhere. I have it most luxuriant upon the
top of a wall where a little earth had been spread.
Mr. Bowles, 1 in ““My Garden in Autumn and
Winter,’ has some pleasant pages about Sedums.
“It would be easy,” he says, “‘to fill a fair-sized
rock garden with nothing but Sedums and yet
make it attractive throughout the year, as so
many of them are quite independent of their
flowers for beauty. Several of them color finely
as Autumn draws near, especially if grown in
exposed, dry positions.”
Mr. Bowles speaks in particular of the charm of
Sedum pulchellum, known as Widow’s Cross for
short. And from the Botanic Gardens in Bath,
England, comes this flattering description of it:
“Tt is indeed a most charming plant, possessing
all the attributes of a really good rock garden
subject. It is an evergreen species, producing
numerous growths from a central tuft. As
these lengthen they very much resemble the
young growing shoots of a Spruce, their narrow
ointed leaves being about an inch in length.
These, when mature, assume a most beautiful
shade of red.” The flowers are soft rose-purple.
This would certainly seem to be a most desirable
species and quite distinct among Stonecrops.
It is, moreover, a native American, to be found
in our Southern and Mid-Western states; and
yet in twelve important catalogues, examined this
morning, that list many other varieties of Sedum,
Sedum pulchellum is not named. I should be
glad if any reader can tell me wher in this coun-
try this fine native is to be had.
If any good at all can come from the devasta-
ting order of the Federal Horticultural Board,
that shuts us off, alone among nations, from the
horticultural treasures of the world, it may be
that we shall become more widely acquainted
with our own flora. But it is a heavy price to
pay for what might have been accomplished for
no price at all!
A Fine Native Rock Plant
One of [the prettiest of rock plants is our
native Rock or Wild Pink, Silene pennsylvanica.
I know it upon the rocky hillsides of Westchester
County, N. Y., but its range extends from New
159
THROUGH, THE GARDEN GATE
Wilder
efuthor of My Garen' and Cofvur indy Garden”
England southward through South Carolina and
west through Kentucky. It is a true crevice
plant, nearly always found wedged tightly into
a cranny where the scant soil is mostly composed
of leafmold. Its growth is tufted and it has soft
grayish leaves and stems, a trifle sticky in the
manner of most of its fly-catching family, and
large bright pink blossoms carried on rather long
stems. It makes a charming splash of color
upon the bare rocks in May and is well worth a
place in the choicest collection. . 1 know of at
least one collector from whom this fine native
plant may be secured.
Our country is rather rich in Silenes, though
not all of them are fit for use in gardens. The
Sticky Cockles and Bladder Campions are well
enough for the wayside but do not come up to
garden standards. In high mountain meadows,
however, close to the never-melting snow of our
own Rocky Mountains, as well as in other alpine
regions of the world, grows the tiny Moss Camp-
ion, Silene acaulis, with its harsh, moss-like foliage
and minute pink blossoms. This mite has con-
sistently refused to bloom for me, though it grows
well enough in stony soil until an unusually dry,
burning summer proves too much for it.
The Far West offers three other Silenes whose
descriptions once read must fill any rock gar-
dener with a desire to possess them. Silene
laciniata, ‘coming from about Pasadena where
“the brilliant flowers gleam among the under-
brush like bits of flame,” may not be hardy’
enough to stand the winter in northern gardens.
However, the picture of the ragged flame-colored
blossoms in Margaret Armstrong’s “Western
Wildflowers” determines me to try. The two
others are more promising. Silene californica
grows in open woods of the mountains along the
coast and in the Sierras. The large flowers
“gleam like coals of fire on the brown forest
floor.” Who would not desire this plant for his
own! Silene Hookeri is described as having pink
flowers, rarely white, often more than two inches
The Rock Pink is a true crevice plant and worth planting in any
rock garden for its beauty, and it is also a native
across. It grows on shady hillsides in various
parts of the Northwest. These plants may all
be had of a Western collector.
Two Good Blue-Flowered Plants
It often happens that one member of a plant
family establishes itself in the good graces of a few
enterprising nurserymen and is so lauded and
advertised that other members of the family,
just as deserving, are almost overlooked. ‘This
is what has come about in the Veronica family.
V. subsessilis is constantly in the public eye
while one seldom sees V. amethystina and V.
spicata noticed at all.
In reality these two European species are
160
much more reliable plants than their fine Japanese
relative which often sulks if conditions are not
just to its mind; and J] know few that provide
such satisfactory spreads of violet-blue color.
V. amethystina, correctly V. spuria, I believe,
flowers in May, sending up countless flower
spikes to the height of about a foot, that last a
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
long time in good condition. At this season
there are few flowers of its hue about.
V. spicata is of much the same character but
grows considerably taller and flowers throughout
July and into August, when if the spent flower
stems are cut down there will be a second flower-
ing during the late summer and Autumn. This
May, 1919
is a good plant to group with Gypsophila or the
Moonpenny Daisies, or for a gay effect, with the
yellow flowered Evening Primroses. Other Veron-
icas that are well worth the gardener’s attention
are V. gentianoides, V. virginica, V. incana, and
the low-growing species so suited to rock gardens
V. repens, V. rupestris, and V. teucrium dubia.
Proper Pruning of Ornamental Shrubs wc. cams
Now, as the Flowers Fade is the One Time to Use the Shears and Help New Growth for Next Year’s Bloom
HE universal, simple rule that governs
ALL cases is: Prune after flowering !
The disappointment of so many people
over their ornamental shrubs is that
they do not obey this rule.
By pruning I do not mean shearing the plants
to form fantastic shapes—that is not pruning
atall! The kind of pruning we are talking about
is that which encourages the plant to do its best
in the production of abundance of flowers or the
improved development of its natural form, or
both. First of all, is pruning which removes
diseased, dying, and dead branches and limbs
or stems that are beginning to fail either because
of age, insufficient light, and any other cause.
This work is the simplest of all pruning. It may
be done at any convenient time, summer or
winter. In general it is best done while the
plants are dormant because there is then little
danger of damaging the parts that remain.
\ ," 7 HERE the plants do not produce flowers or
are not valued for their blooming qualities
the pruning may be done during the dormant
season when it is desired to increase the amount
of woody growths, either in number, or in size,
or both: for pruning during the winter has this
general tendency. Summer pruning may be done
to strengthen the parts that remain and to reduce
the quantity of branch growth and thus keep the
shrubs within bounds. With non-flowering shrubs,
and trees; however, it is of secondary importance.
FLOWERING shrubs are perhaps more often
improperly pruned than any other decidu-
ous subjects just because people do not apply the
fundamental principles upon which the develop-
ment of their blossom buds depend. And yet
these are simple and only two in number. So
far as their habit of bud development is con-
cerned, ornamental shrubs and trees may be
divided into two classes. (1) Those that de-
velop their blossom buds during the early summer
and the actual
blossoms late in
the season; that is
they require the
whole of one grow-
ing season to pro-
duce their blos-
soms and_ fruits.
(2) The other class
includes all those
subjects that de--
velop their blos-
som buds during
the summer of one
season, but, with
rare exceptions
such as Witch-
hazel, wait until
the following sea-
son to develop the
blossoms from
these socalled rest-
ing buds.
It is obvious
that these two
classes of plants
The Horse Chestnut will serve as
n illustration of plants that develop
flowers at the end of a leafy bud
Cut back just after flowering this spring-blooming shrub is
making strong new side shoois for next year’s flowers
cannot be handled alike, and yet the one last
described is very frequently pruned at the wrong
season with the result that only a scattering few
flowers—perhaps none at all—are left to open.
While it is not essential to prune the late blooming
shrubs like the Hydrangea in autumn or winter,
yet no harm should result if they are pruned
during that period. Generally, however, it is
more satisfactory to wait until the opening of
spring to cut them. On the other hand, it is
essential to the highest success with the early
blooming shrubs to avoid all cutting except that
recommended in the opening paragraph of this
When you do cut out wood pet has already flowered, do it like
this
article; for if these plants are pruned during the
dormant season not only will large quantities
of blossom buds be destroyed but the plants may
be thrown out of balance and wood growth in-
stead of blossom buds be encouraged.
FE, VERGREENS constitute another class of
ornamentals. Those that produce con-
spicuous blossoms should be handled in the same
way as deciduous shrubs that bloom at the same
time of the year. The broad-leaved ones like
Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurel, Mahonia,
and the Evergreen Hollies all produce their
blossoms before midsummer from buds that
developed during the latter part of the previous
season and remained dormant during the winter.
If, therefore, they are pruned during the dormant
season, or before the blossoms expand, great care
must be exercised to avoid cutting off the flower
buds. Fortunately these are rather large and
conspicuous, so there should be little or no
danger of removing them.. In other respects the
pruning of these broad-leaved evergreens is the
same as that of the narrow-leaved ones, such as
Pine, Spruce, Cedar, and Arborvitae. The prun-
ing of all of these is best deferred until spring
has actually opened and such deciduous plants as
the Willow, Shad-bush, and perhaps Dogwood
have started into growth. The reason for this
is that all evergreens seem to suffer far more
than do the deciduous shrubs and trees when
cut during the dormant season.
SHRUBS that produce their blossom buds
during the first half of the growing season
should therefore not be pruned (if flowers are
desired) until after the blossoms have fallen.
Thus the shrubs will have all the balance of the
season in which to direct all their food and energy
to the ripening of wood and flower buds for the
next season’s display.
These early blooming shrubs and trees may be
subdivided into two classes; namely, those plants
which bear flowers
directly upon last
season's wood,
that is without de-
velopment of
sIno@ts “tang”
year; and _ those
plants which pro-
duce more or less
leafy shoots from
the over-wintering
buds, and upon
these shoots bear
their blossoms.
The illustrations
show the difference
between two of
these classes. The
Judas tree bears
before any of the
leaves appear;
the Weigela_pro-
duces leafy shoots
upon some of
which the _ blos-
soms appear.
The Forsythia is a good example
of the shrub that produces its flowe.s
. before the leaves on old wood
These four portraits will give some idea of the range of flower forms in the Annual Poppies. There is real diversity in color, too. In order from left: Peony-flowered, white; Carnation-flowered;
Ranunculus-flowered; Single, fringed
Poppies for Everyman’s Garden «. w. xerr
Gorgeous in Barbaric Brilliancy of Color and Silk-like in Texture, a Group of Wonderful Plants That Can Give Flowers at
Almost Any Time of Year.
N VARIETY of form and color the Poppies
(and especially when we add their many
allies) would almost complete a garden of
themselves, and we may have Poppies of
one kind or another in bloom from May until
frost. Thus the Alpine Poppy (Papaver al-
pinum) in flower during May also the Iceland
Poppy (P. nudicaule), closely followed by the
brilliant oriental Poppies (P. orient-
ale), then Papaver rhoeas, the most
popular and beautiful form of which
is the Shirley Poppy, and so on
throughout summer and early fall we
may always have Poppies in bloom.
THE Poppies proper may be
roughly divided into four garden
sections, these being Papaver som-
niferum, the Opium Poppy; Pap-
aver rhoeas, the Corn Poppy;
Papaver nudicaule, the Iceland
Poppy; and Papaver orientale, the
Oriental Poppy. The Opium Poppy
is easily distinguished by its suc-
culent, glaucous green foliage, the
plants averaging from 23 to 3 feet
in height. In this section there are
now a large number of distinct
varieties both single and double
flowered. Among the latter are the
immense ‘double fringed flowers of
the Carnation-flowered Poppy; the
Peony-flowered Poppy with large,
heavy, extremely double flowers
which average 4 to 5 inches in
diameter. All are exceedingly hand-
some and showy, and splendid color
schemes can be carried out by planting them
in separate colors.
"THE best of the double forms of the Opium
Poppy are Snowdrift, pure white; Cardinal,
scarlet; Shrimp Pink, delicate rosy-pink; Fairy
Blush, white tipped with rose; White Swan,
Fire King, and Mikado; and in the single-flowered_
The stately Opium Poppy used for mass effect in shrubbery. Clump of Field or Shirley Poppy
in foreground
For barbaric
splendor the
Oriental Poppy
indeed has few
rivals. Effect-
ive when used
in mass against
a green back-
ground
Quite dainty is
the little fragile
looking Alpine
Poppy _ nestled
among therocks.
Photographed
on the Higgin-
Sone Gs ualbes
Manchester,
Mass.
161
Easy to Grow Too
varieties, Virginia, immense fringed white with
rose colored edges; Danebrog or Danish Cross,
brilliant scarlet with white blotch on each petal.
THE most popular of the annual Poppies is
the selection from Papaver rhoeas, the
scarlet field Poppy of Great Britain, known as
the Shirley Poppy. It was evolved after several
years of careful and painstaking
selection from the wild form by the
Rey. W. Wilks, Secretary of the
Royal Horticultural Society of Great
Britain, and is easily distinguished
by its rather hairy and much cut
leaves, these being smaller and lack-
ing the glaucous color of the Opium
Poppy. The flowers are exceedingly
dainty in their coloring, ranging from
pure white, cream, salmon, through
all gradations of pink to scarlet and
crimson. The true type lacks the
obnoxious black blotch which is
found at the base of the petals of '
its parent Papaver rhoeas.
In this family we have also the
Ranunculus-flowered Poppy, but it
lacks the beauty of the Shirley. Do
not omit to make several sowings of
Shirley Poppy throughout the season,
say from early spring until July, and
again in the fall for next year’s early
flowers.
Moe! dainty for decorative work
is the Iceland Poppy. A table
decoration composed of the three
colors (red-orange, yellow, and
162
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
ats
May, 1919
white) usually found in this type, with a little
of their own foliage and perhaps a few grasses,
cannot be surpassed by the choicest of flowers.
The plants average 18 inches in height; the foliage
forming a tuft-like growth from which arises in
great abundance the beautiful flowers on long
stiff wirelike stems. The Alpine Poppy, Pap-
aver alpinum, is said by some authorities to be a
variety of the Iceland Poppy; but it contains
a greater range of color, including pink, salmon,
white, yellow, orange and intermediate shades.
It is a real delight, in foliage and flower much
resembling the Iceland Poppy, but it only aver-
ages about six inches in height. It is quite at
home in the rock garden, though in fact it may
be planted in practically any position, with the
exception of wet or low-lying places.
R bright garish showy
effects the Oriental
Poppy takes precedence
over all the other members
of this family. They are
true perennials and are per-
fectly hardy. The plants
average about 3 feet in
height, the flowers being
cup-shaped and six inches
or so in diameter. The
type has bright, scarlet
flowers with a black spot at
the base of each petal.
The leaves are long, narrow
and much cut, and form a
tuft-like growth from the
centre @f which the flowers
are produced on long stiff
stems.
This type has of late
ears been much improved
y selection and crossing
with the result that we
have now Oriental Poppies ranging in color from
blush white through shades of salmon-pink to
almost deep maroon, and of these the salmons
are the greatest favorites.
Although the Oriental Poppy will succeed in
almost any soil, do not slight them by planting
in any old out of the way spot of the garden, but
give them of your best, both as to position and
soil. When they have finished flowering in
early summer cut off all old flower stems, and
after a few weeks’ rest give them copious and
regular applications of water, when they will
make new growth and present you with a second
Why not start something?
Two Tips from Commercial Growers
HIS is the approved method of the com-
mercial cauliflower growers of Long Island
where the crop is the best in America:
Sow the seed in a seed bed not later than
the zoth of May. Most of the farmers choose
a piece of grass ground for a seed bed. They
work it up early and put the fertilizer in. I be-
lieve very fine manure or a moderate dressing of
chicken manure is good, and then keep it culti-
vated or harrowed once a week or ten days until
it is time to sow the seed. The same treatment
should be given the soil where the cauliflower
are to mature. Plow it in April or the very first
of May and broadcast the fertilizer. They use
here about a ton to the acre of high grade fer-
tilizer. About the roth of July is a good time
to set the plants and if it is very hot or dry set
them in the afternoon and puddle them in. After
they take hold use the hoe and cultivator every
week until the plants have attained a good size.
These implements should not be used after the
plants get to the point where the ground is well
filled with roots. Cauliflower does not do so
well in a very wet season. When the young
plant has to struggle along at first is when it
range of color combinations in shades of red and pink and white.
harvest of blooms in the fall. The best of the
newer varieties of Papaver orientale are Silver
Queen, having flowers of medium size, silver
white with suffusion of pink; Lady Roscoe the
most beautiful shade of orange terra cotta;
Mahony, the darkest colored in this family,
deep crimson maroon; Marie Studholme, salmon
tinged with carmine. This was the first of the
new salmon shades to be introduced and is still
one of the very best. Mrs. Marsh, rich crimson
and scarlet with white blotches. A peculiarity
about this striking and showy variety is the fact
that the flowers all come self-colored until the |
plants are thoroughly established, the blotches
not appearing until the second or third year after
planting. Mrs. Perry, the most lovely shade of
orange apricot; Psyche, delicate rose; Queen
The Shirley Poppy is a seed selection from the Field Poppy, that has no black spot on the petal and comes in a wide
Alexandra, bright salmon rose with crimson
blotch; R. C. Notcutt, palest salmon pink, and
one of the most beautiful, the petals being nicely
crimped; Perry’s White is unique and is really
white.
AS CUT flowers, Poppies despite their
intensive beauty are regarded with less
favor than they merit, because they fall apart
if carelessly handled. When cutting Poppies
for home decoration, choose flowers that are just
on the point of opening, and if the cut ends are
seared with a lighted taper they will last for
gets a good hold, for the roots go down into the
soil looking for moisture. When the season is
wet the roots do not go down and consequently
the plant does not make as good a growth.
Of course the same method applies to a smaller
plot under cultivation. Plenty of well rotted
manure on the land the fall before helps very much
indeed, especially in view of the shortage of
potash. Cauliflower ground will stand all the
tilling that a man can give it and the more work
is done on it before the plants are set the better
it is for the crop. When the heads begin to show
and get about as large as a cup it is time to tie
the leaves up so that the sun will not burn the
head.—Linnaeus Allen, Cutchogue, L. I.
How to Raise Hyacinth Bulbs.—Hyacinth
bulbs may be multiplied very rapidly by fol-
lowing the Dutch plan. Any one may secure
quantities of small bulbs in this way and these
can be grown on in a year or two to flowering size.
The blossoms will be small compared with the
exhibition forms but they are graceful and of high
value for cut blooms. ‘The idea is on the follow-
ing lines. After the parent bulb has flowered in
It suggests possibilities of selection in other plants.
several days. This applies more particularly
to the Iceland, Shirley, and other annual kinds,
but when using the Oriental type, immediately
after cutting plunge the stems for three minutes
in water just off the boiling point, afterward
putting them in cold water. By this means they
will remain in perfect condition for a week or
longer.
Simplicity of Culture
THE Poppy is a friendly plant indeed for
seed of the annual varieties may either be
sown in the fall or in the early spring, and also
at intervals throughout summer to prolong the
flowering season. It is best to sow them where
they are intended to flower, as they are not
readily transplanted. The
larger growing members of —
the Opium family should
be thinned out to stand at
least one foot apart, and
the Shirley Poppies to nine
inches apart. Do _ not
permit seed pods to form
or the plants very quickly
stop blooming. The Ice-
land and Alpine Poppies
are best treated as bien-
nials, sowing the seed in
summer, thinning the form-
er to 12 inches apart and
alpinum to 6 inches apart.
In some soils they live for
several years, but best
results are had from them
as biennials.
The Oriental Poppy may
be treated similarly to the
preceding, but the plants
will require more room
and they may be trans-
planted with impunity unless the weather
should be very.dry. In propagating fine
improved varieties or seedlings of special
merit, the plants may either be divided or
extra stock may quickly be made by root
cuttings. For the latter method lift the plants
any time after they have finished flowering,
when some of the largest roots may be taken
and cut into one-inch lengths laying them hor-
izontally in sand one inch deep. ‘These pieces
if kept moist will within a short time make a
nice plant ready for transplanting in the early
fall.
3 at
ee
A a te
the spring, and its foliage has died away, it should
be ripened for a few weeks in a dry warm place.
Strong sunshine on the bulb is to be avoided.
Now take the bulb, and with the point of the pen-
knife, cut out its base in this way: Hold the
point of the knife turned upward and inward
and turn it right round the inside of the bulb in
the shape of a cone, taking care not to cut the
central shoot if you wish to keep the original
flower stem. The upper portion will form a con-
cave exactly fitting the lower or convex part.
The separated base will, if planted in light soil —
start to grow in the fall and is often not much ~
the worse for the removal of the upper portion. —
To return to the top part of the bulb. This —
should be placed on a sunny shelf or window
ledge and covered with a few inches of dry sand. —
It is best to have the top part uppermost. In |
four or five weeks’ time it will be found that this _
buried portion of the bulb is simply crowded —
with youngsters. When these are about as big
as hazel nuts they may be removed and grown —
on in the usual manner. ‘These little bulbs often —
throw flower spikes during the second year.—
S. Leonard Bastin, Bournemouth, England.
lh he
Window box of brightly colored glazed tile in harmony with the house, filled with Paris Daisy,
Ageratum, variegated Vinca, suitable for a sunny exposure
When the position is in shade the choice of material is restricted to foliage effects.
gracefully. English Ivy is most satisfactory here
Vines drape
Window and Porch Boxes a. s. raurston
A House Accessory That Brings the Garden Into Intimate
LOWERING and decorative foliage
plants set in boxes are important orna-
mental features of the windows and
porches in many cities and towns.
When they are once adopted they are’ never
given up for, if properly filled and cared for, they
prove to be a beautiful addition to a residence
or any other building.
To have entirely satisfactory results the boxes
must be so made that good growing conditions
can be maintained, the mixture and composition
of the soil being such that good results are as-
sured, and it is also essential that the plants
receive regularly the little necessary care after
planting.
Making the Boxes
WINDOW and porch boxes are easily con-
structed or can be bought at small expense.
As the plants are invariably planted very closely
together and as the locations are generally very
trying to plant culture, it is necessary that the
boxes be deep enough to hold soil to carry the
plants through the season—i. e. not be less than
six inches deep, inside measurement, while nine
inches is much better; and the width about the
same as the depth. The length is naturally
determined by the space to be filled. In ~
the case of porch boxes it is preferable
that they be made not more than six feet
long and to facilitate handling four feet is
a better length. Where the space is longer
than this, the boxes can be made in sec-
tions.
The wood used should be seven-eighths
inch cypress, chestnut, or oak. While
cypress is more expensive than some of
the other soft woods, it will last much
longer. When some of the cheaper woods
are used the boxes should be charred on
the inside to delay rotting. This can be
done by covering the inside surface of the
box with kerosene and then setting fire
to it, smothering the fire with dirt after
the inside of the box has become charred.
Have the.boxes strongly made, for they
have to support a heavy weight of soil.
Proper drainage is essential to get good
results, this is provided for by boring sev-
eral holes, which should be about one inch
in diameter, in the bottom of the box.
The outside of the boxes should be
properly painted for while the color of
the box may not matter much at the
latter part of the season, when the
growth of the vines has become heavy
and Foliage Plants
enough to entirely cover the box, yet, for the first
month or so, the box is generally plainly visible.
Dark green is the color commonly used but often-
times one more in harmony with the color of the
house is more pleasing. When placing the boxes
be sure that they are securely fastened in place,
for after the plants have grown and require con-
stant watering the boxes become very heavy
and present quite a surface to high winds, and in
the case of window boxes it is very dangerous to
leave them where they might be blown off or drop.
What Plants to Use
THERE is quite a variety of material suitable
for planting in boxes and similar receptacles.
The selection will depend greatly upon the loca-
tion and the surroundings. In bright, sunny
locations flowering plants can be effectively used,
while in very shady positions or even where the
boxes will receive sunlight but a short time other
plants will have to be used. The one necessary -
requisite for successful boxes is good trailing
vines, and generally the Vinea, green or varie-
gated, is the plant used, and if good, sizeable
plants are procured it rapidly covers the box and
makes a very beautiful showing. “Ivy” is
suitable for shadier locations; German Ivy
In such positions the boxes must be securely fastened in place, especially those that
ornament the upper windows
163s
Friendship.—Making, Planting, and Upkeep With Combinations of Flowering
(Senecio mikanioides) is a very rapid grower and
soon covers the box and hangs in long strings
down the front, while the true or English Ivy is a
much slower grower and must be planted closer,
but it is evergreen and the best of all vines for
the shadiest places. Thunbergia alata is a very
desirable vine, as its flowers add much to the
appearance of the box. The tall or climbing
varieties of the Nasturtium are often used when
an inexpensive box is desired. Lobelia gracilis
is a trailing plant and a fine thing to edge the
box, but it will not grow as long as some of the
other vines. Among the best of trailing plants
are the Ivy Geraniums which are very showy, but
they must be used with care to avoid any color
clashes with the other plants used in the box.
Other vines of value for edging boxes are Trades-
cantia, Cobea, Ipomea, and Convolvulus.
For use in the back of the box there is a very
great variety of plants available. One of our
most used plants, the Geranium, can be used
with the vines alone or in combination with
other flowering plants. Marguerites are well
adapted for boxes, and if well cared for will
bloom all summer. Stocks, Salvias, Abutilons,
Calendulas, Petunias, Ageratums, Mignonette,
Zinnias, Marigolds and some of the other ever-
blooming annuals can be used. In shadier
locations Fuchias, Begonias and Ferns are
the plants best adapted. In the.shadiest
places flowers are impossible and Palms,
Ferns, and other decorative plants, such
as Crotons and other variegated foliage
plants, are the only plants that can be used
successfully. For tropical effects Palms,
Rubbers, Dracenas, Crotons, Aspidistras
and Grevillias can be used.
Ascompared with plantsof bright flowers
foliage plants are more certain, more for-
mal, and require less care, while the more
showy flowering plants offer more chance
of failure. The most effective boxes are
those in which neither too great a variety
of plants nor too many colors are used.
For very dusty locations, such as over-
hanging streets, avoid the rougher-leaved
plants, using those which have smooth and
glossy foliage which can be frequently
sprinkled and the dirt washed off.
The Soil and Filling of the Boxes
BECAUSE the amount of soil is limited,
it must be of the best. Filling the
boxes with soil taken from just any
convenient piece of ground will not do.
There is not sufficient plant food in
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
the soil to keep the plants growing
steadily throughout the season. The
ideal is a good loam and that is best
obtained by chopping up rotted sod.
Fresh manure should not be used, but
good cow manure, which has stood
for a few weeks and dried, is a fine
stimulant for plants. The soil is pre-
pared by adding manure to the loam,
in proportion of one to three. If the
loam is rather heavy and of a clayey
nature lighten by adding one part of
sand to the mixture. If manure can-
not be had, any of the commercial fer-
tilizers or dried sheep manure make a
fairly good substitute. Bone meal is
often used as its plant food becomes
available slowly and in small quanti-
ties and thus not causing too rapid
plant growth.
See that each of the drainage holes
in the bottom of the box is covered
with a piece of broken flower pot,
concave side down, to allow surplus
water to escape. Over this have a
one- or two-inch layer of strawy ma-
nure to prevent the soil from washing
out with the drainage water; over this
place the coarser parts of the soil and
then fill the box to within four inches
of the top with the finer soil.
Planting the Boxes
AS THE front of the box is the
most important part it is best planted first.
If vines areused atall have enoughof them to cover
the boxes well. After the vines are placed along
the edge, the plants forming the background
may be set along the back of the box, spacing
them so that the tops of the plants will just touch.
garden picture.
May, 1919
In combination with base planting of flower beds, window boxes become an integral part of the
After the plants have been properly arranged in
the back, begin to fill in the centre.
The distance between the plants here as
in any other kind of planting should always be
governed by their tops; no matter how close
or how far apart the lower part of the plants may
Gladiolus, Lilies, Iris, etc., in bed, with Hydrangea in tub
come, the tops of the plants should
nearly touch each other so as to form
a complete whole. The plants ought
crowding. Do the work carefully, so.
as to be sure that no hollow places are
left after completion.
After the plants are all placed, fill
in between them with soil, but with-
out disturbing their position, up to
within one inch of the top, and in
finishing off take care to have the
surface of the soil level. After the
boxes are planted give a good water-
ing, not merely just enough to wet the
top of the soil, but a heavy watering
sufficient to wet the box clear through
and settle the soil thoroughly around
the plants.
After Care and Maintenance
IF THE window box is to be an
object of beauty through the sea-
son it will need some care. Since the
boxes are quite often placed rather
high up, where they are exposed to the
sun and air, they will need to be wa-
tered frequently. Never once must
they be allowed to get very dry, there-
fore water every day! The best time
to water is in the evening or early
morning. The only other attentions
3 necessary are the removal of decay-
ing leaves and flowers and from the end of July
onward, regular and light, very light, feeding
with a good chemical fertilizer. If a hght mulch
of well decayed manure be placed on the soil it
helps to keep the soil cool and moist and the
boxes will not then dry out so rapidly.
Gladiolus for General Planting MONTAGUE CHAMBERLAIN
Getting Acquainted With Flowers of Quality. An Intimate Discussion by a Well Known Expert Whose Appraisals Are Made
on Merit and General Adaptability Combined
N A previous article in this magazine bearing
advice to the novice in Gladiolus growing
mention was made of several varieties suit-
able for every garden; but besides these
there are now available, and at a moderate cost,
a small host of really worth while forms (and
these are being added to yearly) so that when
desiring to make a selection the gardener is at
a loss to know which will suit him best—the
catalogues make them all so tempting, and the
abundance is so confusing. If you will let us
help you out of this dilemma, our first suggestion
will be that a personal selection be made in a
garden with the plants in bloom before you.
But of course that means waiting another season
and the time of planting is here now. During
the month of August the Gladiolus garden is at
its very best. Some early flowering varieties
open their petals about the middle of July while
others are only closed by the frost, but the
majority of these beautiful things are at the
zenith of their attractiveness during August.
‘That is the time therefore to choose the varieties
that you want to plant next spring. For this
year the following remarks will be a guide.
The best place to see Gladidlus is the garden
of some grower who plants a large number of
varieties, or if such a garden is not available the
next best place is a flower show, and especially
the annual exhibition of the American Gladiolus
Society. You need not fear that the growers will
consider you as an intruder, even if you go to their
gardens merely to examine the flowers, for these
men are fond of their flowers, and take as much
pleasure in showing them to a visitor as a woman
does in showing off her babies. In trying to
help in the making of selections we at the same
time hope to be able to render some assistance
to those who having had every opportunity to
see the plants in bloom are still confused by the
very abundance of the material offered; Let
us at once get rid of the notion that only the
high priced bulbs produce really first class
blossoms. This is a perfectly natural mistake,
which a visit to a large collection would disprove.
Among those of reasonable price there are many
that were classed with the elite a few years ago,
and will be prime favorites for many a year to
come. So you can if you like skip these expen-
sive bulbs for the present, and in a year or two,
when they are no longer rare, the price will reach
moderate dimensions.
And Now for the Selection
RED being the dominating hue in Gladiolus
we will begin with the different combina-
tions of that class, and start with the palest—the
pinks. Of pink Gladiolus there are now available
a large number of varieties. The best of the
soft rose tones is found in Myrrie, which was
awarded a silver medal by the Massachusetts
Horticultural Society. Its color is especially
soft and its genéral effect is delicate, yet it is a
vigorous plant and easily grown.
Of slightly deeper tone is Summer Beauty.
The blossoms are not as large as are those of
Myrtle, but as a large number open together the
effect is decidedly fine.
Another rose pink, a rival of Myrtle at the
shows, is Daisy Ranp. The color is a deeper
richer tone than that of Myrtle, and the spike,
when full, has a better appearance, and what
the plant loses in daintiness, in a_ comparison,
it gains in stately grace. Daisy Rand is one
of the patricians of the garden.
Pink PerFecrTION is still another rose pink.
The individual blossoms are models of graceful
form, as well very beautiful in color, but the
stem is not strong, and unless the plant is secured
to a stake it is apt to assume a most ungraceful
sprawl. A salmon pink well worth growing 1s
Hattey. Other satisfactory pinks are CLARICE
and Taconic and Dawn, and the famous and
well known beauty AMERICA.
A combination of tender rose pink and lemon
yellow is found in FaErtg, producing an exquisite
effect, while the best combination of white
and pink is found in Cameo. ‘The petals of this
latter variety are thick and velvety and bear
some resemblance to those of a Camellia.
The popular Gladiolus Mrs. FRANK PENDLETON
has been described as the most beautiful of all
these beautiful flowers, and it is indeed a brilliant
beauty. The dominating color is a bright salmon
pink of two exquisite tones which sometimes
fade to white at the tips. On the lower or inferior
petals is a patch of vivid carmine. The blossoms
are large, and as several of these come out to-
gether the effect is of the compelling sort. No
one passes a bunch of them unheeded. The
plant stands above its neighbors yet there is
nothing about it that suggests aristocratic
stateliness; it is a rather flaunting beauty but
it is so summer-like, so full of the brightness of
to be close enough to nearly hide the ©
box and the soil yet without over-
:
)
i
4
May, 1919
the ideal summer time,
that a bunchof itshould
be in every garden.
The rival of
Frank Pendleton forthe
honor of Queen Beauty
of this beautiful throng,
is LovELINESs, and
truly a lovely thing it
is having none of the
garish brilliancy of the
Pendleton, but display-
ing colors of tenderness
and delicacy that ap-
peal to the love of
refined things that is
in most of us. These
colors are a combina-
tion of rich pink and
cream, which shades to
a soft rosy pink in the
centre of the petals.
The blossoms are large
and graceful and are
well set on a tall and
strong stem.
Of reds there are a
large number, though
they differ widely either
in tone or in form of blossom. The brightest
scarlet is CoMaNcHE and next to that in
intensity are Nezinscott, Mrs. Fryer, and
Evecrra the last named being the finest.
For out-of-door effect the old BRENCHLEYENSIS,
scarlet, and INDEPENDENCE, flame pink, are
especially good. A bunch of deeper tone—all
of them rich, but bright, red—are APPOLLO,
Cuerry Kine, Ina Van, Meteor and Navajo,
with Navajo likely to win the most
votes in a competition. All of this
bunch bear blossoms of good size of
which a number are out at once, and
being provided with strong straight
stems they always make a satisfactory
appearance. A newer red, Hazet Har-
VEY gives promise of much merit.
Of deep crimsons the leader is the
well known GEorGE Paut, bearing large,
rich blossoms. A group that display a
brighter crimson—an especially rich and
beautiful tone—are Mrs. Moutron,
Mrs. Watt, and Montana, the last
two being almost identical. Many per-
sons who saw these at the flower shows
of recent years considered their color
more beautiful than that of any other
sort on exhibition. It is certainly most
attractive.
There are several red Gladiolus that
are so dark in tone that at a little dis-
tance they appear black. The best of
these are Deum DE Carnot, EMPRESS
oF Inpia, ALICE CHAMBERLAIN, and
Pawnee. Alice Chamberlain wears the
darkest shade, but the flowers are small;
Pawnee produces the largest flowers,
the petals of which are thick and vel-
vety and of a deep brownish red.
Gladiolus America, one of
the most popular pinks for
cut flowers
S YET the hybridizers have not
succeeded in producing a really
blue Gladiolus, but in trying for it they
have given us a number with blossoms
of lilac, violet and bluish lavender tone,
several of which have decided merit.
FLORENCE is the most satisfactory lilac,
and in violet the lead is taken by Ki1nc -
OF THE VIOLETs and Baron JosePH Hutort, both
of them rich purplish violet. A satisfactory blue-
lavender is BLUE Jay wearing a costume of laven-
der and white that is striking The flowers are
latge and are well set on a tall, strong stem.
here are a number of other purple sorts that
are highly recommended in the catalogues but they
are not entirely satisfactory when grown. The
surely upset by this picture
plants, to help out succession of bloom
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE . 185
most that can be said for them is that hte may
be made useful in adding variety to the garden
colors, and in forming combinations for house
decoration they are highly valuable. Among
these are VioLeET PerFection, La Nuit, Hetto-
TROPE, GoLiaTH AMETHIST, Dick, AzuRE, and
Biue Kine.
Of pink lavenders we have several fine sorts.
The delicate tone of Mary FENNELL combined
with the patch of primrose, delicately lined with
lavender, which appears on the lower petal, has
placed this variety among the queens. But
though the blossom of this beauty indicates
delicacy, the plant is robust and easily grown.
In Rosetta we have a pink-lavender of deep
rich tone—the color called “‘rose-red” in the
French books. Mrs. Francis King, the well
known authority on garden flowers, described
Rosella as “a lovely thing,” and those familiar
with these blossoms think Mrs. King was none
too generous in her praise. The blossoms are
large, and of graceful form, and when the plant
is in full bloom it makes a delightful addition
to the garden.
An unusual effect is produced by the artistic
coloring of DEspEMoNE—a French production.
The dominating hue is ashy rose—a real pastelle
— suffused with pale yellow and violet, the lower
petals bearing a patch of crimson margined with
buffish white. The flowers are large, lily like
in form and well set on a tall spike.
A brilliant, almost dazzling combination of
color is found in Mephistopheles, which carries
vivid red, crimson and yellow in great splashes.
The best available yellow Gladiolus, the
variety that yields the best yellow color, is
SutpHuR Kino. The blooms are small, but
they are well shaped and well set on a straight
The objection sometimes raised that Gladiolus is too stiff for ordinary garden use in
strong stem. Of paler yellows there are several.
Outside of the high priced group—the “elite” —
Nracara is the most satisfactory. The hue is a
pure nankeen, with some lines of red in the
throat. As the flowers are unusually large“and
several open together the effect is fine. GOLDEN
Kine displays a good strong yellow, with a deep
ted patch on the lower petals. Two small
Plant the bulbs in small groups among the other border
flowered yellows of
sterling merit are Ca-
NARY Birp and SPRING
Sone, the latter wear-
ing delicate tracings of
pink on a patch of
bright yellow.
An interesting flower
of yellow color is the
recently discovered
species PRIMULINUS—
found by some English
engineers in South
Africa. The blossoms
are small but of ex-
ceptionally graceful
form—distinctly differ-
ent from that of all.
other Gladiolus. The
petals are rather nar-
row and hang close to-
gether, excepting the
central petal of the
major segment, which
droops forward, form-
ing a “Hood. The
spike is exceptionally
slender and the blos-
soms are widely sep-
arated on it, giving the entire plant a dainty
and graceful appearance. This dainty plant
has been cross-pollinated with several of the
large-owered strong-stemmed sorts, producing
a group that is highly prized. They lose a little of
the daintiness of the smaller parent, but they
retain the “hood” and the slender spike and gain
in colors of most artistic beauty, many of them
being of wonderful new shades. They are usually
catalogued as ““PrimuLinus Hysrips.”
You will want some white varieties
both for garden effect and for cutting.
Very satisfactory garden sorts are REINE
BLANCHE and Giory oF HoLLanD, grow-
ing on tall stems that are strong and
straight. PErAcE is a splendid variety
for the garden. The flowers are ex-
tremely large and well shaped, and the
stem is tall and strong. But the color is
not white for it is strongly suffused
with a bluish tinge. RocHEsTER WHITE
is a good sort, and does well for cutting.
Lit1 LEHMANN 1s fine for cutting and is
a beauty. The color is a pure white,
and the form of the flower is most
graceful. The individual blossom, con-
sidering color and form, will rank among
the finest of Gladiolus beauties.
A pair of exquisite white flowers are
EvizaBeTH Kurtz and JEsste PaLMErR.
The color of the latter is of pure glisten-
ing tone which is enhanced by a wide line
of vivid carmine drawn through the lower
petal. The effect of this strong contrast
is striking and delightful.
The very best white at present availa-
ble, when color only is considered, is Ev-
ROPA, but it 1s so dificult to grow—so
difficult to make it do its best—thatitcan
not be recommended tolany but an exper-
ienced gardener. I planted it three years
before obtaining one spike that was at
all good, but then! Ah—!
Gladiolus Niagara, nankeen
yellow is a recognized favorite
for decorative work
HIS ends the list of Gladiolus that we
recommend to the gardener who de-
sires a good assortment that can be ob-
tained at a reasonable price. The rarer
and more expensive sorts have been omitted,
though among them are flowers of great beauty—
flowers that are vexatiously tempting—and for
the benefit of those readers who delight in the
rarer things, reference must be made elsewhere.
Editors’ Note. Previous articles by Mr. Chamberlain dealing with
other phases of the selection of varieties are as follows: Varieties
for the Novice, May, 1918; Rare Varieties for the Connoisseur,
August, 1916,
The World’s Best For Our Own Gardens—II
Mr. E. I. Farrington Now Recalls Some Trees of Distinction and Individuality That Are Available for General Planting and
Which Have Achieved Positions of Merit After Trial Under Different Conditions
HILE more different Hawthorns are
found on the American continent than
in all other parts of the world combined,
a few remarkably good species come
from other lands. One of the best foreign Haw-
thorns, and indeed one which must be included
among the best half dozen to be found anywhere,
is Crataegus pinnatifida, from Northern China,
where it was discovered by Maximowicz and in-
troduced into Russia. Seeds were first sent to
this country by Bretschneider in 1892, and hand-
some trees are now growing in the Arnold Arbore-
tum. Its merits as an ornamental tree entitle this
Oriental Hawthorn to wide dissemination, al-
though it is little known here as yet. It has a
wealth of white blossoms in the spring, these
blossoms being succeeded by brilliant red fruits.
The leaves are large, deeply lobed, and very lus-
trous. The fruit is about three-quarters of an inch
in length, and is esteemed highly by the Chinese, °
who grow orchards of this tree in the vicinity of
Peking.
Well distributed as it is, yet Sophora japonica
is perhaps better known to the layman under the
fantastic title Japanese Pagoda tree. A number
of specimens are growing in various parts of this
country, and the tree is offered by nurserymen.
In spite of its name, it is really a Chinese tree,
although long cultivated in Japan. It is valued
for its generally attractive appearance, and es-
pecially for its small, creamy-white, pea-shaped
flowers, which appear in August, although not
until the tree is several years old. Apparently
this tree was taken from China to Europe more
than a century ago, having been discovered by
Father D’Incarville and probably it came to this
country by way of France.
Father D’Incarville is also responsible for the
introduction of the Ailanthus, which Professor
Sargent calls the most generally useful of all the
large deciduous leaved trees which
have been brought here from north-
ern China. This tree grows rapidly
and is perfectly hardy. Moreover,
it can resist the heat, drought, and
dryness of American cities better
than almost any other tree. What
more need be said? Altogether the
Ailanthus ranks high among the
foreign trees introduced to America.
Objection is placed against this tree
on account of the odor of its stamin-
ate flowers which most people say
completely belies its popular name
of Tree of Heaven. On the other
hand the fruiting tree (it is dioecious)
is not objectionable on this account
and indeed its crimson pinks are very
decorative as they ripen in late
summer.
Another Chinese tree of great value,
and one perfectly able to adapt itself
to New England’s climate, is Pséu-
dolarix, which was discovered by Ro-
bert Fortune, England’s famous plant
hunter. It is often called the Gol-
den Larch. As its name would indi-
cate, however, it is not a true Larch,
although closely allied to the Larix
family. Its long spreading branches are pendu-
lous at the extremities, and the foliage is almost
feathery in character, giving the Golden Larch a
distinctive and most attractive appearance. It
grows well in almost any good soil, but demands
a sunny open position to display its full beauty.
Estate owners who buy this tree should make
sure that it has been grown from seeds, for when
grafted it seldom makes a satisfactory specimen.
Because of its peculiar, rough bark, the tree
known to botanists as Phellodendron saghalinense
is commonly called a cork tree, although the bark
is not so corky as that of some other species of the
genus. This is the best of the Phellodendrons for
planting in the northern United States. It was
introduced by the Arnold Arboretum from seeds
sent from Japan in 1876 by Col. Clarke. Here is
an excellent tree to plant when one wants to
produce a somewhat tropical effect, the compound
leaves being very different from those found on
most trees growing in northern regions. These
leaves have a pungently aromatic odor when
bruised, which to protects them from insect
pests. The tree which will thrive in any soil
and grows rapidly, especially when young,
is likely to come into favor for lawn planting in
suburban sections, and is to be recommended
because of its easy culture and its freedom from
insect pests, as well as its ornamental character.
Although high in the favor of many landscape
gardeners because of its spire-like form, the Lom-
bardy Poplar is by no means a satisfactory tree
in many ways. Another Poplar with somewhat
better habits, but having the same pyramidal
shape is the tree known as Boll’s Poplar, from
Central Asia, and catalogued as Populus alba
Bolleana. The leaves have a peculiar silvery-
white appearance, and when this tree is used with
discrimination it is valuable, especially to give
architectural emphasis. One of its real advan-
tages lies in the fact that it has a much longer life
than the Lombardy Poplar.
In speaking of foreign trees which have proved
themselves well adapted to American conditions,
the Ginkgo, or Maidenhair tree, must not be over-
looked; its foliage is like that of our well-known
fern in form, and assumes a beautiful golden:
color in late fall—enduring after the Maples.
This is the only remaining representative of a
genus once widely distributed over the northern
hemisphere. It was introduced into Japan from
China at least twelve hundred years ago. Growing
Golden Larch (Pseudolarix Kaempferi) growing on the lawn of Mr. Hunnewell at Wellesley,
Massachusetts. It does best in full exposure to sunshine
near Japanese temples, there are specimens fully a
hundred feet high, with trunks six feet in diame-
ter. So far as 1s known, William Hamilton
brought the first specimen to this country in 1784,
planting it in the famous garden which he had
made in West Philadelphia. Specimens of this
tree have now been planted in many parts of the
United States, and have almost invariably given
the utmost satisfaction. One of the finest speci-
mens is to be found in the Mt. Auburn
cemetery, near Boston. No one knows where
the original home of the Ginkgo actually was,
166
but some five years ago the late F. N. Meyer,
of the Department of Agriculture, found it grow-
ing spontaneously over some ten square miles in
the Chekiang province of China. This is the
only place where the tree is known to grow except
in cultivation, and may perhaps have been
the original home of the Ginkgo.
A tree which attracts much attention in the
Arnold Arboretum is a globular form of the Nor-
way Maple, known botanically as Acer platan-
oides globosa. It is a remarkable tree, for while
twenty-eight years old it is hardly more than eight
feet high, and with a greater girth. It has
dark rich green foliage, and its compact growth
gives it a most symmetrical appearance. This
mop-headed form of the Norway Maple is in
commerce and is likely to displace the dwarf form —
of Catalpa bignonioides, commonly sold under
the name of C. Bungei, for it has a more distinct
growth, and is better in several other ways.
It is characteristic of the Maples to show a great
tendency to variation, and many different forms
have been propagated by European nurserymen.
This globe-like tree probably came from Germany
in 1888.
It is a well known fact that as a rule trees in- |
troduced from Asia are more satisfactory when
grown in this country than those which come
from Europe. A distinct exception, however,
must be noted in the European Lindens, which
thrive remarkably well in the northern United
States and are to be preferred oftentimes to the
native kinds. Two silver-leafed Lindens from
eastern Europe, Tilia tomentosa and Tilia petio-
laris, are especially handsome trees, well worth a
place in the planting lists of northern gardeners.
The former comes from Hungary, where it gets
to be a large tree. It has been planted to some
extent in the parks of New York City, where its
value and enduring worth have been proven.
Tilia petiolaris is better known in
New England, especially in Newport,
R. I., where some large and well
grown specimens are to be seen. It
is not known in the wild state, and its
origin is very uncertain. As grown in
the Arnold Arboretum, most of the
European Lindens, of which there are
several, thrive as well as on their na-
tive heaths.
Among the particularly good lawn
trees introduced from Europe is the
found catalogued as Fagus hetero-
phylla or F. asplenifolia. This grace-
ful tree, with its fern-like foliage, is
ornamental when small and remark-
ably handsome when full grown. Its
form is unusually symmetrical, and
if it is allowed to retain its lower
branches it makes an exceptionally
satisfactory lawn specimen. Some
very large trees are growing in the
older gardens of our land and arouse
much admiration. One of the finest
specimens is to be found on the
grounds of the Redwood Library, at
Newport, R. I. Curiously enough
no record can be found as to the
origin of this handsome tree.
‘The weeping form of the European Beech hasalso
proved agood tree here, althoughit makes very slow
growth so that noexceptionally large specimens are
yet to be found in this country. The great tent-
like specimens seen in Europe are among the finest
of the trees that grow there. Experience has
shown that the normal form of the European
Beech in cultivation is a better behaved tree in
many partsofthis country than thenative American
Beech itself, and that it grows faster, although it is
not quite so handsome as its bark isdarker colored.
Fern-leaved Beech, which may be
Ra
en
ee
May, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 167
The Oriental Hawthorn (Crataegus pinnatifida) growing in the Amold Arboretum, Boston,
| I A r he Be ph Ss 42 Massachusetts. The profusion of white spring bloom is followed
by masses of brilliant red fruits each about three quarters of an inchinlength. Un- CP
es fortunately this splendid plant is but little known as yet
aihes
song dias bbssdeeiad Hibben
The Ginkgo or Maidenhair Tree so called because of its’: wedge shaped leaves (Ginkgo biloba) i The so-called Japanese Pagoda tree (Sophora japonica) has become fairly well distributed, pos-
eapidly ming one of the most popular ornamental and ety foe Its Cpese uO) a) 8 sibly because its oddity of form attracted attention. When the flowers—white, wisteria-like—are
doce Arpt obvious as it ages, Rich gol den, yell avin fall eccen lect produced all over the tree it is indeed a handsome sight
The Walks of Your Garden’ r. x corr
Landscape
Architect
Perhaps You Have Never Thought How Much the Pathway is Part of the Picture. Here are Some Suggestions for.
Choice of Materials and Their Relative Merits
HERE shall the walks be and of what
shall they be made?” is!the insistent
problem as soon as a garden is decided
on. The first part of the question is
entirely one of design, in which beauty, conven-
ience and drainage are the prin-
cipal factors to be considered and
must be solved for each individual
garden. There can be no general
rule laid down.
The second half of the question
is more easily answered as there
is only a limited number of ma-
terials which can be used to make
appropriate garden walks. Let us
at once eliminate wood and ce-
ment from the list of suitable
materials; the first because it is
neither lasting nor attractive and
the second because it is cold, hard
and off color and looks out of
place among the flowers and foli-
age of a garden.
This leaves us with the follow-
ing materials from which to chose:
—grass, dirt, gravel or crushed
stone, stone, brick.
RASS walks are of value
where plenty of space is
available and where the drainage
is good. They should be from four to six feet
wide and slightly crowned in the centre so as to
shed as much water as possible. A grass walk
is always attractive, blending well with its sur-
roundings in the garden. It is a restful walk
with no hard lines and with pleasing color. Its
faults are that it is often wet, requiring the use of
rubbers, and that it needs considerable care. The
upkeep of a grass walk is more than for either
brick or stone as it requires mowing, clipping, and,
in dry weather, sprinkling.
In the second place dirt walks, made usually
of clay, are cheap and durable but are not things
of beauty and even when properly drained are
always more or less slippery after a rain. If,
however, a clay walk is to be built the following
principles should be observed:—Do not make the
In a brick walk the pattern of laying offers a variety of effects
and to some degree controls the width. Brick is serviceable at
ail S€asons
walk more than four feet wide, give it a crown of
one half inch per foot from centre to side and run a
line of four inch farm tile with open joints along
the sides of the walk eight or ten inches under
the surface.
The walk of broken stone in irregular shapes isin harmony with the construction of the terrace wall,
and always lends'a feeling of rusticity. Dwarf rock plants may be set between the pieces
RAVEL or crushed stone walks are satis-
factory in many instances. The construc-
tion of these is the same, but to my mind
a surfacing of carefully screened and crushed
gravel is far more attractive and less artificial
than one of crushed stone. Either will make a
good, serviceable, homelike walk which will re-
quire but little attention further than going ovei
it once or twice a year to destroy the weeds.
To build a gravel walk properly one should ex-
cavate the earth to a depth of six inches, run a
line of farm tile with open joints along either side
of walk below this grade (See sketch). Fill in
four inches with coarse stone, brick, pieces of
concrete or the like, and thoroughly roll or tamp
until solid. Over this’ foundation spread a two
inch layer of coarse clay gravel which will fll
the interstices between the foundation stones
and act as a binder. This too should be thor-
oughly rolled or tamped. When the rolling has
continued until a hard, compact surface is secured
* the top course of either gravel or crushed stone
is spread lightly over the surface. The edges of
the walk should be a little below the sod along
its sides for if the walk is at the same level or a
little above the turf the gravel is sure to wash off
~ of the walk and cause trouble when the grass 1s
cut.
NE. of the most popular materials for
garden walks are old flag stones. These
‘are broken or cut into pieces ranging from
ten to twenty inches across and are laid directly
on.the ground. ‘There are two patterns in which
the stones are laid; one where the stone is broken
with a hammer and odd shaped pieces fitted
together like a picture puzzle; the other where
the flags are cut into rectangular pieces of varying
size. In both styles a wide joint is left, usually
an inch or an inch and a half in width which is
filled with grass. The stones are laid directly
on the ground only excavating enough to make
them lie flush with the turf on the sides of the
walk. The joints are filled with good loam and
strips of sod are tamped in between the stones.
A broken stone walk is always attractive and
the wide grass joints relieve the hardness of a
solid stone walk. ‘This type of walk has been so
extensively used in some places that the supply
of old flag stones is nearly exhausted.
168
BRICK walks, though expensive, have many
points to recommend them. They are dur-
able, require little attention, harmonize well with
the green foliage and give a warm touch of color
to the garden.
laid on straight lines or in large
sweeping curves,and never in
curves of a short radius.
Brick walks should all have a
concrete foundation with the edge
bricks set in cement, but the bricks
composing the rest of the walk
can have either a cement or sand
joint.
Excavate the earth along the
line of the walk to a depth of eight
inches and give a concrete founda-
tion of five inches, consisting of a
mixture of one part portland ce-
ment, two parts sand, and three
parts crushed stone or. coarse
gravel. This should have approx-
imately the same crown as the
finished walk will have—about
one half inch per foot from centre
to side is the average.
On this spread evenly a layer of
sand to act as a cushion for the
brick. The brick are then laid on
this sand cushion and the joints
are filled with clean, sharp sand
which is worked in by sweeping. A walk of this
kind should always have a border brick set in
concrete in order to hold the other bricks in
place. These border bricks can be set either on
end or sideways and the concrete should be
cannes up some distance at the back of the
rick.
"THERE are several patterns in which the
brick of a walk may be laid. They can
be laid in rows either parallel or at right angles
to the walk. They can be laid basket weave or
herring bone. Of the latter there are two varie-
ties, known as the right angle and the forty-five
degree herring bone. The first of these is laid
parallel and at right angles to the walk and re-
quires less cutting of the brick than the forty-five
The grass walk has a distinctively ‘‘garden’”’ quality, but is not
always) a practical one for all-year service as it becomes wet
and soft
In general brick walks should be ©
4
a il
REE i
May, 1919
A5° HERRING BONE
BASKET WEAVE
degree variety in which each end brick has to be
cut at the required angle.
In deciding on the widtn of a brick walk of
any type it is well to lay out a trial piece of walk
to ascertain what width will best meet the re-
quirements of the brick used. By so doing a
great deal of time is often saved and unnecessary
cutting of the brick avoided.
The joints in a brick walk can be either filled
with cement or sand. If cement is used great
care should be taken to keep the cement from
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Sand Cushion
7 ee Ech
Typ CONCRETE
» lyteeia ne. 8) 8: Crs Ral ivite:
2
° SECTION OF BRICK WALK e
2 Boeec eves Baas = Sea
S&
Bee .
° SECTION OF GRAVEL WALKe
being smeared over the
surface of the brick. A neat
way of laying a cement
jointed brick walk is to lay
it by the method known as
“push joint.” The founda-
tion is laid as described and
allowed to harden, then
instead of the sand
BROKEN STONE WALK OF :
cushion a layer of ce-
REGUIAR SHAPED DIECES.
Ley
100g
sven
[_\
Fost
ines
BROKEN STONE WALK OF
IRREGUIAR SHAPED PIECES.
BIGHT ANGLE
HERRING BONE.
ment is spread over
the surface and while
this is soft the bricks are pushed over it in
such a way that when the brick is brought to
the required position it has picked up just enough
mortar to fill the jot. This makes a very ser-
viceable, substantial walk and one from which
the snow can be shoveled with no fear of disturb-
ing the brick as is not always the case in a sand.
jointed walk.
My Garden of Desire MARGUERITE HEY KELLY "2
HEN I found I was to have my own
home and hence my own garden my
interest knew no bounds—and one
entire winter was spent over garden
plans of my own drawing; dreaming before the
open fire of the garden that was to be.
All my life I had wanted a garden of my own—
not just a plot of earth in which to have a few
plants, but a garden that would express my mean-
ing of the word—one that would be bright and
pleasant in the day time and cool and perfumed
in the moonlight—a garden picture framed within
a hedge of Privet.
Y GARDEN is one hundred feet long by
thirty feet wide with a gravel walk edged
with red brick upended running the full length
and terminating at the rear in a small shrub
garden, the whole being entirely enclosed in
clipped privet hedges. Each entrance has a
white arch and a gate over which pale yellow
and pink climbing roses grow. To give width
to the garden, circles were laid in the walks at
equal distances from the entrances, with a bird
bath as a central feature in each—and paths
deviating from them leading to some simple
object of interest such as a white garden seat, a
good view of the garden—or up the terrace to the
porch. Paths which lead nowhere are excuse-
less.
The garden beds are Jaid out on each side of
the walk, with no grass strips intervening, this
was done to allow the flowers to grow out over
the walk in places—and to do away with too
long a line that might appear conventional.
I prefer a balanced planting effect—as I feel that
li
same need in the garden for equal proportions
as on an old fashioned mantle shelf with a candle-
stick at each end.
The house and garden are close together, the
drawing room opens on the porch, whose brick
steps in turn lead down a grass terrace directly
into the garden. Ifa garden is to be an “‘outside
living room” it must be close to the house.
[N CHOOSING my flowers I wanted the simple
ones of our grandmothers’ days—that come
back every year and repay our attention with a
wealth of bloom. From early spring when the
early blue Phlox (P. divaricata or canadensis)
come mingled with bronze Tulips, Daffodils, and
blue and white Scilla until autumn finds the
garden gay with pinkish purple and lavender
hardy Asters, Eupatorium, yellow Chrysanthe-
The flower beds of this Lansdowne, Pennsylvania, garden extend on each side of a central walk, no grass edge, and the plants spread over at will. The ample masses give a proper sense of
richness. The garden, while close to the house, is separated by an enclosing hedge that “‘frames’’ the picture
170
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
May, 1919
mums and all the soft shades of Zinnias—my
garden is full of flowers so arranged that one
crop follows another through the seasons. Dur-
ing June and July the garden is at its height with
great clumps of Clove Pinks roaming the beds
and falling out upon the walk, along with For-
ae and the annual Ageratum Heavenly
ue.
Here and there groups of Foxglove and Colum-
bine stand out against a background of Del-
phiniums in every shade of blue, and pale yellow
double Hollyhocks. Old fashioned, pungent
Fever few, Sweet William and Garden Heliotrope,
Pansies and Glow Daisies, Lemon Verbena,
Madonna Lilies, pale gold Calendulas and Can-
terbury Bells in rose and blue and lavender all
blend into each other in my “garden picture.”
Many more, such as Baby’s-breath, white Phlox,
the Japanese Ruby Lilies, Platycodons, Snap-
dragons, Butterfly-bush, China Asters in all the
mauve and flesh shades, lavender Convent: bells,
August Lilies, pale shades of curled and crested
Zinnias and many others are all to be found
growing side by side.
The planting of a few annuals is of great value
and should never be omitted, as they fill in
bare spaces left by earlier perennials. 7
Everything is planted in clumps—I do not
care for the polkadot effect of the mid-Victorian
garden pictures—and I have always tried to make
each color blend into the other, save where
Seen from the end its appropriate furniture of combination
arched trellis and seat with bird fountains unite to give a
vista of charm
contrasts were desired. No domineering red
has ever set its foot within my garden walls.
In the shrub garden such old time shrubs as
Lilacs, pink and white Flowering Almonds,
Forsythia, Mockorange, Boxwood, Bridal-wreath,
Azaleas, Snowballs and Flowering Cherries grow.
FTER three years of patient work my garden
has come into its own and more than repays,
me for the happy hours spent there. It is a
very modest, simple little place and yet I think
it reflects my efforts and is indeed a ‘“‘lovesome
spot”—and when last summer along with all
the other flowers a tiny son came to leave his
baby footprints on the garden path (and pull
up all my choicest plants, perhaps) I felt it was
complete.
Manure and Scab, a Correction
OUR attention has been called to an error
which inadvertently was permitted to appear
in the March GarpEN Macazine at the bottom
of the second column on page 70. ‘The state-
ment is made that one of the actions of manure
is to “prevent the growth of the potato scab
organism,” whereas, the facts are that both lime
and stable manure tend to augment rather than
reduce the disease in an infested soil. Fertilizers
causing an acid reaction are therefore generally
advised for use in connection with a potato crop.
Potting Strawberries As an Art arcuieaLp RUTLEDGE
Get Your Runners Now—Why It Is Possible to Have a Full Crop of Berries From Plants Set During the Previous Summer
The sunken pots of strawberries along the garden walk are
near the spigot and get all the water they need
ELL, the old strawberry bed is running
out this year. We shall have to have
a new one next spring. That means
setting plants late this summer. But
We can’t expect to have many berries from the
first crop. A new bed never does much the first
stason.”
That is the kind of talk that I like to dis-
pute,—for the benefit of the speaker and of
all who i:ke to have an abundance of fine berries
every year. There should, never be such a thing
as an off-year for the strawberry bed. And
there need not be if simple plans are carried out
faithfully.
I do not claim that I have a new thing in my
method of starting a strawberry bed by means
of potted plants; but I do think that I have a new
and a very effective way of doing an old thing.
If the minuteness of the directions seems tedious,
it must be remembered that often success or
failure depends on a very small matter. All the
details given appear essential.
"THE first step in this matter of saving a year
on strawberries is to select a good place,
when the first spring crops are planted, for the
new bed. As most of the early crops come out
by the middle of July, I usually plan to have a
berry bed where early potatoes or peas or lettuce
or beans have been. Whether this bed requires
special preparation and fertilizing before the berry
plants are set must be decided, of course, by the
planter himself. J usually respade the alleys,
as the soil-strength from these has not been
sapped by a growing crop.
As to Potting the Runners
"THE time to pot runners is as soon as they
can be had. This sometimes occurs during
the latter part of the bearing period; sometimes
it comes later. But as soon as stout runners be-
gin to take the alleys, catch them in pots. I
know that late May and all of Juné are busy
times for the gardener; but remember that a
little time spent then will mean the saving of a
whole season. By potting a few at a time, as they
appear, I distribute the labor so that it is hardly
noticeable. Therefore, for big plants to set in
July, get the runners into the pots early.
The ordinary pot used for catching runners is
a 2-inch; it is seldom larger. For my way of
potting that is too small. I use 4-inch pots.
The roots have much freedom for growth and
development. Plants are not infrequently
stunted by being root-bound in pots that are too
small to permit of healthful development.
The soil used in the pots i consider the most
vital matter of any Ai these considerations. [
experimented for a long time,—and by that I
mean about ten years,—before I found what I
thought to be the ideal soil for growing straw-
berry runners by this method. In the bottom of
each pot J put a small amount of old manure.
This is to conserve moisture for the plant. Then
I fill the pot, firming the soil carefully, with earth
that has the following composition: one part
garden loam; one part of shredded manure (or
any substitute in powered or fined form); three
parts of tough red clay. All these constituents
‘are thoroughly mixed and sifted. Some gar-
It is”
deners, I know, may wonder at the clay.
admirable!
ture.
pot a firmness that enables the transplanting to
be done without any falling apart of the soil. I
It beats a sponge for holding mois-
discovered by accident the value of clay for pot-
ting of this kind; and now I would never pot
strawberries without it.
As soon as the pots are filled I transfer them
to what I call the “‘saturator.” This is nothing
more than a big shallow pan that has about an
inch of water standing in it. I leave the pots
there until the soil has, by capillary attraction,
become thoroughly saturated. This is better
than attempting to soak the pots from the top.
Placing the Pots
\ X 7 HEN transferred to the berry bed, of course
the pot is sunk at the side of the alley, to
a depth within an inch of its top. Then the
Yes, you can be doing this very thin
; next year if you start
now with the new runners for the new bed
And it gives to the ball of earth in the
Nt ta
May, 1919
runner is pinned down on the damp soil by a
walnut-sized stone. I then usually sprinkle
a little fine mulch over the soil in the pot to shade
the plant’s young roots, and also to prevent the
direct attacks of the sun from producing baking.
If the runner has taken root in the alley, I lift
it with a little soil.
The runner so treated will grow immediately.
The only further attention required will be water-
ing. The deep sinking of the pot and the use of
a large proportion of clay as the potting soil will
render daily waterings unnecessary,—as they
would be if tiny pots with light soil were used. I
have found that even in a very hot.and dry spell
a watering every third evening will keep the plants
in prime condition. Too frequent watering will
cause the plant to expect water from above, and
therefore to form a shallow root-system; whereas
the roots should be made to plunge downward
for their life-giving moisture.
Young Plants Ready to Separate
AN ORDINARY runner potted in the manner
described will have formed, in ten days’
time, a root-system of sufficient vigor to main-
tain the plant without the umbilical attachment
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
171
to the mother-plant. Sometimes I have known
a good runner to form a big rooting system in a
single week. However, it is best to give the
runners from two to three weeks to mature some
of the roots. All this while they will be growing
larger and stronger; and the gardener can have
the peculiar satisfaction of knowing that when he
transplants them there will be no wilting period.
If the bed happens to be located at any dis-
tance from the source of water, so that watering
the potted runners is tedious, this plan may be
followed: After having allowed the runners at
least two weeks to get well rooted (a sure sign
that this has taken place is the new leaves that
will shoot up; another is the firmness with which
the plant grips the soil in the pot), the pots may
be cut loose from the mother-plants, and literally
transplanted to a place near water. I have thus
buried rows of potted plants near a spigot; and not
a single plant was lost. I should not keep the
plants thus, however, any longer than necessary.
Transplanting to the New Bed
IN TRANSPLANTING I always prepare each
hole with a trowel, putting in at least a trowel-
ful of old manure, and mixing this with the fined
soil. J use no mulch; for it is well to keep the
surface-soil stirred for a time to prevent ants from
transferring to the roots of the plants the aphids
or root-lice which are a serious pest. Experience
seems to show that the largest and best straw-
berries are obtainable from the single-plant
method of setting; and this calls for rows 30 inches
apart, with plants about 15 inches apart in the
row.
Although the process described may seem to
require much time and many operations, it Is
really very simple. I have prepared the soil for
two hundred pots, have filled the same, saturated
them, and duly caught the runners,—all in less
than half a day. Of course, I was quite familiar
with the task, and therefore could work speedily.
These two hundred plants, ten months after they
were potted, or a year it may be, would give any
family a handsome strawberry bed. There will
be fruit in abundance; and the youth and vigor
of the plants will make the berries of extra size.
These facts should be sufficient inducements
for any one to try this method; but in
addition to them there is the genuine recrea-
tion to be had from this very pleasurable garden
pastime.
Fair Treatment for Trees ©£.1. p. seymour
Prevention Better Than Cure.
Why the Services of the Expert Tree Surgeon May Be Needed. Some Idea of His Diversified Duties
and Your Own Part in Maintenance Before the Surgeon Comes
HAT a splendid thing it would be to
apply to the care of our plants, and
especially our ornamental and home
; garden fruit trees, the reputed oriental
principle of paying the physician to keep his
patients well, rather than calling him in after the
occurrence of illness. For, after all, prevention
is the wisest, cheapest and most effective defense
against insects and diseases. It calls for a
special skill and training to discover and diagnose
or anticipate probable troubles before they
become obvious and definitely injurious. In the
meantime, there remains available the art of
Cedar of Lebanon standing on the estate of Mrs. H. S.
Huntington at Throggs Neck, N. Y. This tree was the in-
spiration of the acquisition of the property on which it stands.
Planted 120 years ago; 75 feet high, 5 feet trunk diameter.
The saving of this unusual specimen has been the cause of a
long fight with the City of New York
tree repairing or as it is commonly referred to
ce > ce So ” =
tree surgery” or “tree doctoring,” which,
though still in its infancy as a branch of practical
horticulture, still offers much to owners of valuable
trees. -
Wherefor of the Care of Trees
"THE main reasons that make the systematic,
consistent care of old trees and the “‘recon-
struction” of disabled ones worth while are not
sufficiently obvious to many people.
In the first place, trees are normally denizens
of forests and are by nature adapted to gre-
garious forest conditions. The half a dozen
shade or fruit trees scattered: about the average
small home plot enjoy no such conditions. They
stand alone, unprotected from wind and sun
alike by others of their kind; often they contend
against disadvantages of poor, shallow soil, a
lowered water table affected by community
drainage systems, and even the poisoning effects
of leaky gas mains; in place of—sometimes in
addition to—the insect pests that normally
haunt forests, they are subjected to attacks of
unnatural enemies—the boots of climbing boys,
their monogram-carving knives, inanely placed
signboards nailed to the handiest tree trunk,
the gnawing of horses, the gouging contact of
carelessly guided mowing machines, etc. The
very care that they do get is not always of the
wisest: as the superficial semi-occasional sprink-
lings in place of the long, deep-soaking rains, the
scrupulous raking up of fallen leaves instead of
the gradual accumulation of leaf mould and a
“forest floor,” etc. In truth the privilege of
living close to man is often a costly one for
trees.
Sentiment is the second fundamental reason
for caring for old trees, whether they be land-
marks of historic value, family heirlooms, or
merely beauty spots in a landscape from which
they can ill be spared.
There is also a very non-sentimental reason,
namely, the cash value of trees. Not merely
their timber value or worth as sources of fruit,
but also the increased value that trees give to
any piece of real estate.
Economy is another reason for keeping the old
trees growing and healthy. To replace a forty
foot Oak or Elm or Maple means a delay of a
good many years, means the expenditure of a
good many dollars or a long, long wait. The
cost of having a mature tree moved on to your
grounds and safely established there would pay
several times over for sufficient attention to a
slightly injured or diseased specimen which if
neglected may soon die or blow down.
The factor of artistic appeal is worth thinking
of also. Though we may rhapsodize over the
beauty of moss-covered stumps, and vine-
draped, fungus-encrusted specimens fighting a
losing battle against disease and parasite; yet
The ‘“‘Liberty’’ Tulip Tree on the campus of St. John’s Col-
lege, Annapolis, Md., 110 feet high and 14 feet trunk diameter,
it is estimated at more than 600 years. A tablet records the
first treaty with the Susquehannas signed under it, 1652; Wash-
ington’s address, 1791; Lafayette’s reception, 1824. Repair
work by J. T. Withers included 55 tons of concrete filling
The historic Charter Oak of Connecticut is now but a memory as it was demolished by astorm
in 1856, being weakened by disease and never had attention from a practical tree surgeon. In it
the state charter was deposited for safe keeping in 1639. The church bells were tolled at its death
truly, isthere as much real beauty in a tree under-
going dissolution at the hands of devouring
bacteria or uncontrolled rot, as there is in a
specimen in full health and vigor, spreading
anew its leafy expanse and gaining increased
stature and majesty each year?
And finally there is conservation—the urge
that we should save and add to everything useful,
in order to make up for the wastefulness of past
days, and the terrible destructiveness of those
more recent. Not one tree that is not de
finitely out of place can we spare from our
countrysides, whether from practical or from
aesthetic considerations. He who cares for and
buildsup the shade tree on his lawn, the gnarled old
apple in his garden, the clump of Birches along his
drive, is assisting the cause of conservation within
his means and limits no less than he who replants
a thousand acres of woodland with seedlings.
What Tree Rehabilitation Means
"THE young art of tree surgery is far from a
simple one. ‘That is the first truth and one
of the most important that the tree owner should
learn, once and for all. The very fact that it is
young renders its lore and its stock of axioms
and proven theories decidedly limited. That
there is a lot to know about it is obvious when we
realize that we are dealing with living organisms
of several different groups, with a wide range of
environmental conditions, and with the complex
phenomena associated with the individuality of
different trees, as follows:
1. [he checking of such disease or such insect
pests as may be present and causing trouble.
This involves a knowledge not only of the struc-
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
ene
May,
oy Meret ete SY
ture and physiology of trees, but also of the many
types of pests that can attack them, and vulner-
able points of each.
2. It is usually essential to remove from a tree
undergoing repair all diseased or mortified
A real affection for the glory and magnificence of fine trees
was the inspiration of John Davey who has devoted his life to
an ideal and whose persistence has done much to direct atten-
tion to the actual value of timely attention on established trees
Right: Penn Treaty
Tree, which was not
saved for us (from an
old print). A cion
planted on Governor’s
Island, N. Y., and
transplanted by Gen.
Oliver to his home at
Wilkesbarre, Pa., about
1905, required two flat
cars for its transport
Left: At Ogden, N.
J., is the Tatum Oak
which, because of its
associations of historic
interest, has become
the ward of the State
of New Jersey which
provides especially for
its upkeep and _ preser-
vation and good health
_The Washington Elm at Cambridge, Mass., is one of the best known of historic trees. This
picture is reproduced from an old print. The tree has been given attention in recent years and
to-day stands as a splendid example of rehabilitation (see next page)
tissue, in so far as this can be recognized and
reached. Strictly speaking, most of a tree is dead;
that is, its only really growing cells are those of
the thin cambium layer just under the bark, the
leaves and young branches, and the root tips.
3. When such excision of useless or harmful
tissue has been completed, it is necessary to
sterilize and protect the healthy but uncovered
surfaces by applying some moisture-proof, spore-
excluding material (such as tar or creosote) or,
in addition, the filling of cavities with suitably
prepared concrete or asphalt, or even covering
them with metal. Here the “surgeon” is con-
fronted with the problem of combining materials
that naturally do not make a contact—a problem
that can be solved only by long-continued,.
painstaking observation.
4. The strengthening and supporting of a tree
so handled is an important step and one in which
mistakes can easily be made. Heavy metal
bands put around the trunk of a tree to “hold
it together,” are usually fatal rather than helpful,
since they gradually tighten around the growing
bole and eventually choke off its flows of sap.
In the case of a partially hollow tree, a core of
concrete may be worse than useless, for the
strength of a tree is in its flexibility and “give,”
as far as filling is concerned, one authority
advises against it in any of the following cases:
1. If the tree belongs to a species which locally or generally is-
doomed to destruction by the attacks of insects or disease.
2. If the tree is one of a clump or grove where the mass effect is-
more important than that of any individual. Such a grove should
be treated as a whole.
3. If the environment is changing—as may occur in a suburb-
upon which a city is encroaching—with possible detrimental influ-
ence upon the trees there. ;
4. If the tree has recently undergone any radical change in sur--
ae Sa a Ol a i ITI eB Hm a I A
ene
May, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE ‘
173
‘roundings, such as the erection of a building near
it, severe root pruning in consequence, etc.
5. Unless any and all other needs of the tree, such
as food, moisture, spray protection, etc., can and will
be provided thereafter. a
6. If the tree is weak and sickly, and making but
little growth.
7. If the tree is clearly old and nearly ready to
die from natural causes.
8. If the cavity resulting from the treatment of
the tree is not sufficiently large to really weaken it.
These suggestions are of course
based on average economic consider-
ations; whether or not it will “pay”
to have a tree thoroughly reconstruct-
ed, is a question for each individual
owner to answer, in relation to each
individual tree.
5. When the tree is freed of its
enemies and maladies, and strength-
ened in any manner possible, it must
be treated so that other disease spores
and bacteria will not subsequently
enter and start trouble afresh.
6. Finally, the repair work should
be as inconspicuous as possible, the
surface of a filled cavity being finished
to harmonize with the surface of the
tree itself. Of far greater importance,
however, is the finishing of the job
so that the normal healing process
will go forward as rapidly as pos-
sible, and close up the openings in
the trunk or branches with the
least possible delay and in the most
thorough manner. This means a care-
ful approximation of surfaces, judi-
ciously designed curved outlines, etc.
Let the Tree Doctor Do It
ROM this brief outline of the scope of
tree repair it is clear that the novice who
sets out to reconstruct a large, old, and severely
disabled tree is, to put it mildly, tempting
providence. In other words tree surgery—
from diagnosis to after treatment—is a_spec-
jalist’s job, no less than human surgery, dental
surgery, veterinary surgery, or any other sort.
As such it is receiving the careful attention
of practicing experts and of students who see
the profession of “tree doctor’ one of import-
ance and profit in the future.
The successful tree surgeon must be a trained
Above: Washington
Elm at Cambridge,
Mass., as it is to-day,
reinvigorated and
given a fresh lease of
ife
Right: Elm on the
Capitol grounds, Wash-
ington, D. C. This
was planted by Chas.
Sumner and is a splen-
did specimen
Left: The Lancaster
Elm in Massachusetts
is a conspicuous feature
in the landscape and is
one of the finest speci-
mens in existence. In
order to preserve it the
tree and the land it
occupies have been
“deeded”’ to the tree
itself
dendrologist with a knowledge of entomology,
chemistry and plant pathology; he must under-
stand the principles of mechanics and the dis-
tribution of strains and torsions; he must have
the eye of an artist and the manual skill of the
artisan; and he must possess the good judgment
and integrity that are essential attributes of the
professional advisor who would succeed via the
route of satisfied clients and tasks well accom-
plished.
An incidental requirement that is missing far
oftener than one would suppose, is a natural
ability to climb trees. Oftentimes lofty jobs
must be essayed in the course of the day’s work,
and without some touch of atavistic, simian
skill, the best trained, most skilful
operator is just as likely to bungle
ot half do the work, as is a wholly
unequipped amateur tree owner.
The substance of this immediate
argument is, therefore, that it is well
to consult an established, reliable firm
of proven ability and experience
whenever any tree repair job of any
considerable extent confronts you.
When the result of such a consulta-
tion is an estimate considerably larger
than seems called for, think the
matter over, take note of what must
really be done in saving the tree, then
figure out as nearly as you can what
that particular tree represents, both
in cash and in things that money
cannot buy.
What You Can Do to Help
HOWEVER, even as a novice one
doesn’t have to be entirely use-
less, even the facts that this article
has attempted to impart are sufficient
to guide an owner of trees in so caring
for them as to postpone the time
when the skilled tree surgeon will be
needed. In other words, you can
help to keep your trees healthy by
observing these rules:
1. In pruning cut the branch close against the
parent stem.
2. Use a very sharp knife, saw, pair of shears, etc.
3. After they have dried, and at intervals of six months there-
after, paint the surfaces of all pruning wounds more than an
inch in diameter with lead paint or some standard, recommended
protective preparation.
4. Prevent limbs from rubbing together and wearing off their
bark. If necessary cut out one of them.
5. Clean up all small bark wounds by cutting around them
with a very sharp knife, so as to leave an upright, oval wound and
clean edges.
6. In the case of small cavities and minor injuries that you may
attempt yourself to clean out, disinfect, and fill with concrete or
asphalt, promptly and carefully.
7. See that the trees are protected against such unnecessary
injury as barking by lawn mowers or whiffle trees, choking by
metal guards left on too long, guy wires, etc.
8. Keep the trees growing well so that they will tend to resist the
invasions of disease and of the various insects that attack only
specimens that are weakened and failing. Also keep up an active
systematic warfare against such insects and plant diseases known
to be prevalent in your locality.
ee
IVE a thought to keeping the
whole garden neat. Cut out
dead wood whenever you find
any in shrubs or hedges; keep
the corners raked up; dig out young
weeds from paths and drives (or sprin-
kle with weed destroyers) then rake
and roll thoroughly; clean and store
away flats, pots, hotbed mats and sash
—anything that is not in constant use.
Don’t let things lie around.
Look out for frosts that missed the
early train and are just arriving. A
May frost may not be a severe one
nor last long, but it is likely to do
far more damage to the garden than the worst of
January blizzards.
Plant a windbreak—preferably of evergreens, such as
Hemlock—if your garden is unprotected on the side
from which the prevailing storm winds come.
Be neighborly. There will be hundreds: of seedlings
that you will not be able to use. Pass them along to
someone who can use them—it may be the next door
neighbor, or the local garden club, or the school garden
farmers, or even the first boy or girl you come across,
whether or not he or she ever raised plants before. In
any case you will be doing something for somebody
and at the cost of practically no effort and only a few
minutes of your time.
Look into the subject of the relative food values of
different vegetables and plan ways of using all of them,
and each with maximum benefits. We are learning
more about this every year, and the inforrfation is of
very great practical value if properly applied to our
daily kitchen activities. At the same time keep in
mind the individual food requirements of different
groups of plants, and make such use of fertilizers as
will recognize and meet them.
On to the Orchard
In other words, this is ‘he time—psycho-
logical, pathological, entomological, and
practical—to do the most effective spray-
ing of the year. Potentially the subject
is a big one, but actually it simmers down
to these three fundamentals: 1. Know what you are
fighting, whether insect or disease, and what its habits
and vulnerable features are. 2. Use just the right
mixture, at just the right time, in just the right strength,
as directed by any of the reliable general spray pro-
grammes available. 3. In spraying do a thorough,
conscientious, allover job every time.
Borrowing an idea from our beekeeping friends, sing
this to yourself:
earlier.
The Poison sprays of May
The greatest profits pay.
Another one in June
Helps still the insect’s tune.
One more as starts July—
Then lay your spray tools by.
Get these materials in hand, then, for use this month—
summer strength lime-sulphur, bordeaux mixture, and
arsenate of lead or some other form of arsenical poison.
Order for use a little later as the foliage thickens,
Black Leaf-40, or some other reliable form of nicotine;
also hellebore and pyrethrum powders for use on deli-
cate material and ripening crops. Keep these latter
materials in air tight containers so they will not lose
strength.
Look into the wilting tips of raspberry canés for small,
white, boring grubs. If found, go over the bushes and
clip off and burn all tips so affected so as to destroy
the pests. Cut far enough below the wilting point
so the borer will not be left in the main stem.
Examine the tender new shoots of all trees and fruit
bushes for clusters of aphids—plant lice. Spray
promptly with kerosene emulsion, some other oil, a to-
bacco preparation, or even a strong stream of plain
water if nothing else is available, for these insects mul-
tiply with astounding rapidity.
Keep after the currant worms with arsenic sprays.
Keeping Up With Progress
Curt out surplus shoots at the base of the brambles,
especially if small and weak.
Mulch the gooseberries lightly so as to conserve
moisture without heating or smothering the roots.
This fruit delights in coolness and moisture.
Tie up the grape vines whether on arbors or simple
trellis, as fast as they grow. Otherwise the job of
straightening out the growth without damaging it
later on will be exceedingly difficult.
Pinch the blossoms off any precocious, newly planted
strawberries. ‘Keep all the beds supplied with water,
by soaking the ground thoroughly whenever necessary,
not by spraying the plants. Spread a clean mulch be-
tween the rows or plants to keep the berries off the
ground as they begin to form.
The Reminder is to “suggest” what may be done during the next few weeks, é u ( €
are given in the current or the back issues of THE GarDEN MacaziInE—it is manifestly impossible to give
all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine.
up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request
references to any special topic if asked.
When referring to the time for out d
Roughly the season advances fifteen miles a day.
New York, would be about ten days later, and
Che Months Reminder
MAY
Mark these Maxims for May:
1. Spare the plants and spoil the crops
—this means thin relentlessly.
2. Plant in haste, re-plant in desper-
ation.—Wait till conditions are really favor-
able—then give the greatest possible care and
attention to every detail of the task.
3. Great plagues from unsprayed in-
sects Srow.—Start the spray warfare while
the enemy is small and weak and the plant
surface small and easy to cover.
4, ACactuscangofor months without
a drink—but who wants a garden of noth-
ing but Cactus? The moral is do everything
you can to maintain the supply of moisture
in the soil.
5. Wilful weeds make woeful waste.—
Cultivate them to death while small and be-
fore they become wilful.
Keep the compost heap growing. Every
crop of lawn clippings not needed for mulch-
ing, every weed you dig up, all unused thin-
nings, all the old mulches from beds and
borders (so long as they are free from sticks)
should go on the pile to be mixed with an
occasional barrowful of manure, a layer of
loam or old sods, and a sprinkling now and
again of lime.
Look on the twigs of young fruit trees for wounds
made by egg laying locusts (cicadas). Prune off and
burn injured twigs and reduce the numbers of insects
that will be due in 1936.
In the Vegetable Garden
Don’t begin to “let up”’ just because
you see the rows beginning to grow
green and attractive. Most of the
material that is making the best show
Ase now will play no part in the late sum-
BY mer and fall results, so keep busy
weeding, thinning, sowing, planting, and watering
without cessation. Besides, a well-deserved rest in
July or August will be far more enjoyable than a vaca-
tion now when you would constantly be haunted by
thoughts of jobs waiting to be done.
Keep every crop growing at top speed. hose that
mature quickly improve in quality in proportion to the
rapidity with which they grow, and as to the others, the
first few weeks of growth are the most important of all
because they determine the extent of the root system
on which the plant is going to rely for moisture and
nourishment all season long.
Cuxtivate, cultivate, cultivate! Except in the far
South it cannot possibly do any harm (and there it
only hastens the using up of the humus), and every-
where it is beneficial in at least three ways: It kills
weeds; it prevents evaporation of moisture from the
soil; and it improves the aération and physical condi-
tion of the ground.
One careful hand weeding of every row just as soon as
the plants are big enough to distinguish from the weeds,
will loosen the soil as nothing else can and make later
cultivation with wheel or scuffle hoe easier, quicker,
and, sometimes, less necessary. Thin plants, too, as
soon as possible so that the seedlings left in place will
be disturbed as little as possible.
Sow early in the month succession crops of beets,
carrots, cress, kohlrabi, lettuce, peas, potatoes, mus-
tard, radish, spinach, and turnips.
After the frost warning signals have been taken down
for the season, plant beans—all kinds—corn, cucum-
bers, melons, martinya, okra, pumpkin, squash, and
tomatoes. Of course when it is warm enough to plant
these seeds it may still be a little risky to bring outdoors
plants of the same sorts of crops that have been growing
under glass and are consequently even more tender
than the new crops of seedlings will be;
Therefore prepare hills, for all the melons, cucumbers,
and squash that are growing in frames and hotbeds:
174
Details of hozw to do each item
References to back numbers may be looked
), and the Service Department will also cite
oor work of any sort New York City at sea level is taken as standard.
Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from
Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week
Dr. Hopkins (page 20 Feb. issue) also estimates an allowance of four days for each one degree of
latitude or five degrees of longitude, or four hundred feet of altitude.
About a large shovelful of well-rotted
manure and a handful of bone meal
well mixed with the soil makes a good
hill site. If you can set a glass-covered
frame or forcer over each hill until
planting out time, the soil will warm
up quicker and the plants will surely
“Jump.”
Don’t forget to sow lima beans, eye
down. Of course the advice is good for
all sorts of beans, but limas are the
only ones tlrat really demand such care
because of the size of their cotyledons
or seed leaves which have to be lifted
up into the air by the stem as it grows.
Get after the cut worms that may have escaped your
poison bait advance guard. Whenever you discover
a wilted plant of a morning, dig promptly around it
with your fingers and crush the gray, soft, smooth cater-
pillar that you will most likely find there. You may
find others hiding under leaves, bits of wood, stones,
etc.
Wrapping a paper collar around every tomato, egg-
plant, cabbage, cauliflower, and pepper you set out
pays. If you doubt it, leave half unprotected and
compare notes, at the end of the month. But don’t
say we didn’t warn you when you see how much re-
planting you will have to do—provided you have plants
to replant with. Don’t try to put collars on melons,
cucumbers, etc. You will probably lose a few, but
they object to being handled.
The poisoned mash is of course as effective after plants
are set out as before, so don’t stop using it as long as
cutworms appear numerous.
The small striped cucumber beetle is the “pest” of
all these cucurbits. It moves so quickly and flies so
readily! To keep him away sprinkle the leaves with
slaked lime, or even fine ash dust—anything to make the
surface repugnant to the egg-laying females.
Late this month begin to look for locusts. A brood
of the seventeen-year species that has been under-
ground since 1902 is due this summer. Fortunately
this is not a serious pest in the garden.
Get the brush or wire in place for the peas, the poles
for the beans, and the stakes or other supports for the
tomatoes before the plants actually have need of them.
It sounds foolish, but it is a fact that the absence of any
support actually discourages and retards the growth of
tall varieties of peas.
Last call for sowing all-season root crops such as par-
snip, salsify, and witloof chicory.
Sow New Zealand spinach about bean planting time.
It is more tender and takes longer to become edible
than the small one-crop kinds, so it will not be ready
for use until the April and early May plantings of the
latter are exhausted. It will, however, go on growing
all summer, giving picking after picking.
Choose varieties of the cool-loving beets, lettuce, etc.,
with a realization that everything planted now will
probably run into a hot dry spell before it matures.
Some varieties stand such conditions better than others.
Cut asparagus carefully so as not to slash the crowns
and the shoots that have not yet appeared above
ground. Go easy with the young beds—that planted
last year should not be touched, and a two-year-old
plantation should be expected to yield for only three
or four weeks at the outside.
_Keep the seedbed where the late celery is growing
or is going to grow clean of weeds, loose, moist and
slightly shady. Keep the plants growing rapidly and
transplant seedlings as fast as they come on.
Eggplant and peppers can be sown in a protected
spot with faint chances of a crop before frost, but it is
far wiser to start plants indoors, or even to buy what
you need from someone with a greenhouse. A few
of each go a long way.
This is the last chance to plant onions. Transplant
those started in frames while they are less than the
thickness of a corncob pipe stem.
Globe artichokes need lots of water; soak them every
few days during this month.
Late cabbage may now be sown in the hotbed or the
outdoor seedbed.
Begin to spray the early potatoes with bordeaux mix-
ture and arsenate of lead or lime as soon as they are five
inches high. And, while you are at it, do the same to
the eggplant—the potato bug dotes on them no less
than on the potatoes.
A pinch of mustard or radish sown alongside every
three or four cabbage plants is likely to provide an
attractive lure for harlequin cabbage bugs. When the
latter appear in force, spray the lures with kerosene
(oil not emulsion) and set fire to them, or pull them out
and souse them in a pan of the oil.
Don’t be afraid to spray cabbage and even lettuce
if necessary with poisons, so long as the plants are real
young. Most of the poison washes off before the crop
is used, and the outer leaves on which it is thickest are
usually thrown away anyhow.
ee ee ne ee ee
May, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 175
yarden
Set ler
OWEVER successful your garden may have been in the ,3)
past this is the year of all years when bigger crops are
expected of every farmer and gardener.
Our food pledge to hungry Europe must be fulfilled; and you will want
to do all you can to help.
Increased production depends on thorough cultivation, and this can best be secured
by the use of Planet Jr. garden tools. Their scientific construction, with various special-
ized attachments enables you to cultivate with the thoroughness that secures to the soil
proper aération and ability to hold moisture, both of which are necessary to increased
vitality of the plants. Strong, healthy, vitalized plants produce bigger and better crops, and
Planet Jr. tools get these results quickly and with less labor because of their light draught and ease
of operation. Use them, increase the joy and profit of gardening, and add to the nation’s food supply.
Planet Jr. Garden lools
No. 4 Planet Jr. Combined Hill and Drill Seeder, Wheel-Hoe, Cultivator and Plow is a special favorite, and there are
more of them in use throughout the world than any other seeder made. Opens the furrow, sows all garden seeds (in hills or drills),
covers, rolls down and marks the next row all at one operation. Hoes, plows and cultivates all through the season. A hand-
machine that will pay for itself in time, labor and seed saved in a single season.
No. 12 Planet Jr. Double and Single Wheel-Hoe has hoes that are wonderful weed killers. The Plows open furrows, cover
them and hill growing crops. The Cultivator Teeth work deep or shallow. The Leaf Lifters save much time in late work when plants rah
, ._ are large or leaves too low for ordinary work, Crops are straddled till 20 inches high, then the tool works between rows with one
or two wheels. :
, §S L. ALLEN & CO. Inc., Box 11085, Philadelphia
(
c 72-page Catalog free
Ww Illustrates Planet Jrs. doing actual farm and garden work, and describes
| over 45 different tools, including Seeders, Wheel-Hoes, Horse-
oes, Harrows, Orchard-, Beet-, and Pivot-Wheel
Riding Cultivators.
CULTIVATING
TEETH
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
q
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
May, 1919
Acts Like Rain
= T MATTERS not whether it is the
and elevated wateringlines. Itthenis
watering of a border like this; a small
the happy solution to all your watering
garden; a garden covering acres; or
worries.
your lawn, the Skinner System is the
nearest approach to real rain.
The System embodies both concealed
Send for booklet showing complete
equipments for every purpose and
place.
The Skinner Irrigation rar
219 Water Street
Troy, Ohio ie
$3:
7 CKINNER \ wee
ESS YS T E M = eooecee caer eases eet :
ee
OF |RARIGATION.
The public is warned
not to purcha e Mow-
infringing
Townse nd Patent No
1,209,519 Dec. 19,
Townsend TRIPLEX
CUTS A SWATH 86 INCHES WIDE
Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, the
TRIPLEX will mow more lawn in a day than the
best motor mower ever
made; cut it better and at
TOWNSEND'S TRIPLEX. 7 ie Fa )WNSENDS TRIPLEX.
a fraction of the cost.
It will mow more lawn than any
three ordinary horse-drawn mowers
with three horses and three men.
Write for catalogue illustrating all
types of Lawn Mowers
S. P. TOWNSEND & CO.
23 Central Avenue, Orange, N. J.
For Flowers in Summer
Make a seed bed in a sheltered place,
and away from the drip of the eaves of
buildings, for the early starting of the
more tender flowers. This is much
more satisfactory than sowing in the
b open where the plants are to remain.
Sow out of doors: annuals, and the tenderer biennials,
and perennials. These include African Daisy, Ager-
atum, Sweet Alyssum, Snapdragon, Aster, Balsam,
Calendula, Candytuft, Celosia, Cosmos, Dianthus,
Gypsophila, Morning Glory, Japanese Hop, Larkspur,
Lobelia, Marigold, Mignonette, Myosotis, Nasturtium,
Pansy,*Petunia, Poppy, Salpiglossis, Phlox, Sunflower,
Verbena, and Zinnia.
Plant the following bulbs: Anemone, Tuberous Be-
gonias, Caladium, Calla, Dahlia, Gladiolus, Tuberose,
Zephyranthes and Canna; also Emerald-vine, Madeira-
vine and Cinnamon-vine, fine climbers for quick re-
sults.
Use only part of your Gladiolus bulbs at a time, dis-
tributing the plantings at two-week intervals through-
out this month and the first half of June. This will
insure a constant succession of bloom.
Hardy plants to go out the first part of this month are
Ageratum, Sweet Alyssum, Aster, Geranium, Lobelia,
Petunia, Phlox Drummondi, Verbena, and Vinca. The
tenderer plants which should not be set out until after
danger of frost is over include Alternanthera, Begonia,
Coleus, Heliotrope, and Salvia.
Flowers need cultivation just like the vegetables.
Transplant if necessary. It is not yet too late to take
up and replant perennials that have been growing in
one place for several years and beginning to “run out.”
Wait until the flowering period is over before shifting
early flowering perennials. :
Thinning out the flower stalks and removing some
of the buds on those remaining will give bigger and
better flowers with almost every plant; also give a top
dressing of nitrate of soda just as the buds are beginning
to form to push development.
Prepare ground for the planting of summer bulbs,
using thoroughly rotted manure or better still, humus,
sand, and a little bone dust. But do not plant until
the end of the month. :
Always harden off potted plants before putting them
out in the open. A couple of nights in a covered cold-
frame, then two or three in an open one, is a safe pro-
gramme.
Shade Begonias and Cyclamen moderately; give the
former occasional applications of manure water, and
keep the latter thoroughly aired. : f
This is a popular Dahlia planting month, but nothing
gained by putting the tubers in the ground before
itis zhoroughly warm. Many planters delay till end
of June. And, as one of the few exceptions to a gen-
eral garden rule, don’t make the soil too rich. Better
stimulate the plants to produce blossoms later when
they have made most of their stem growth.
Dig up the Dutch bulbs after their flowers have faded
and let them ripen for a few days before storing them
away in a dry, sheltered place. Fill in the spaces they
came from with seedling annual or bedding plants
brought from the hotbed or greenhouse.
Plant window boxes now (see page 163). Ferns and
other matezials from indoor hanging baskets and table
decorations enjoy a month or two in a shady border,
after which they can be repotted.
Plant the Water-lilies and other aquatics in the water
garden you built last month.
Personal Flowers and House Plants
Plant potted Roses now for bloom next
,
“> month. Spray now for perfect flowers
€\47 in June. Watch out for green aphids
and other Rose bush troubles. Any
neglected pruning must of necessity be
done now, removing from a half to two-
thirds of last year’s growth. The blooms of the Roses
are borne on the new wood of this year, so prune
accordingly. F
Move from the house to the veranda any: decorative
or house plants that are well through blooming, or to
some other sheltered place where they can be looked
after and not be in danger of getting caught by late
frosts.
Cuttings of any of your favorite plants started now
will give good, strong pot plants for bloom next fall
and winter.
Sow Primula by the 15th of the month to get plants
in blossom by Christmas.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Carden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
—_—
May, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
World’s Best Dahlias
We are the original American Dahlia Specialists, and have grown
We are the largest growers in the world, and carry an immense stock.
3 Wonderful New Paeony Dahlias
MRS. HOWARD M. EARL. The most beautiful of all Paeony Dahlias.
A strong, vigorous branching grower, producing the large, exquisitely formed
flowers in profusion, on long graceful stems. Color: burf pink, overlaid car-
mine, with yellow at base of petals; reverse of petal, buff pink, with band of
tynan rose through the centre.
The marvelous beauty of the harmonious blending of these colors, shades,
and tints must be seen to be fully appreciated. Price $5.00 each.
THOS. WALKINS. New. Large, splendid form. White suffused cerise,
heavily shaded and tipped crimson. 75 cents each.
F. R. AUSTIN. An entirely new type, with wonderful coloring. Cream
shading to yellow, suffused pink, overlaid crimson, tipped cream. 50 cents each.
3 wonderful new Paeony Dahlias described above including book The Dahlia
‘or $5.75.
A Grand New Century Dahlias
Now offered for the first time.
AUTUMN CENTURY. Very large, perfect form and extremely profuse
bloomer. Buff yellow shading through amber to red, with an iridescent sheen.
$1.00 each.
GLORIA. Yellow, tipped and penciled vivid red. Very striking and
effective. 75 cents each.
JESSIE. Snow white. The ideal white century Dahlia. Immense size,
beautiful form, and an extremely early and profuse bloomer. $3.00 each.
SUMMER GIRL. The ideal yellow century. Very large soft yellow;
an extremely profuse bloomer on long stems. $1.00 each.
4 new century Dahlias described above, now offered for the first time for $5.00.
12 Distinctive Dahlias of Special Merit
JACK ROSE. Rich crimson decorative. 15 cents each.
JOHN WANAMAKER. Bright orchid pink; beautiful form. An early and
profuse blooming Decorative. 25 cents each.
KLEIN DOMITEA. Pompon. Bright golden terra cotta. 15 cents each.
LYNDHURST. Decorative. Vermilion scarlet. 15 cents each.
MAGPIE. Cactus. Maroon, pink and white; very striking. 25 cents each.
MELODY. Decorative. Clear yellow, tipped cream; very fine. 25 cents each.
MINNIE MCCULLOUGH. Decorative. Golden buff, heavily tipped
bronzy red. 15 cents each.
PERLE DE PARC. Decorative. Large, pure white. 25 cents each.
PRAXITELES. Single. Maroon, tipped white. New, very striking. 50
cents each.
PROF. MANSFIELD. Decorative. Large, yellow suffused red tipped
white; very effective. 20 cemts each.
ROSY MORN. Cactus. Deep rose, tinting lighter toward thecentre. 15
cents each.
SYLVIA. Decorative. Pink, with light centre. 15 cents each.
12 distinctive Dahlias of Special Merit described above, a collection that
will give the greatest satisfaction, for $2.00.
For 35 years we have grown Dahilias.
Dahlias for all purposes ever since.
6 Distinctive Cactus Dahlias of Exceptional Merit
A collection that will give you success and pleasure.
ELECTRIC. Pure canary yellow, tipped pure white. Very large with quilled, MODEL. Yellow, passing to rose. Very distinct and effective. 75 cents each.
.incurved petals. 50 cents each. MRS. SEAL. Deep maroon, passing to rose, tipped white. Very distinct and
: Ge he a Rich glowing crimson. Very large, with long quilled petals. striking. 30 cents each.
0 cents each.
MARY PURRIER. Brilliant scarlet-red. Very large with long quilled, incurved
petals. 50 cents each.
6 Beautiful Cactus Dahlias
GENERAL BULLER. Deep crimson, shaded maroon, tipped white. 20 cents
each.
MARJORIE CASTLETON. Soft rosy pink, tinting lighter toward the centre.
A free and reliable bloomer. 20 cents each.
QUEEN OF HEARTS. Pure white, with a golden halo at the base of the petal.
25 cents each. .
SEQUOIA. Golden bronze; fine form, with long stiff stems. 25 cents each.
STORMER. Spectrum red; very large. An early and free bloomer, on long
stems. 35 cents each.
SUCCESS. Large, pure yellow, with long pointed petals; an early and free
bloomer. 30 cents each.
One each of above described 6 beautiful Cactus Dahlias for $1.50.
STABILITY. Carmine rose, tinting lighter toward the centre; long slender petals.
25 cents each. : Pee Me
One each of above most beautiful and distinctive Cactus Dahlias for $2.50.
6 Grand Decorative Dahlias
AYESHA. Very large, clear light yellow, on long stiff stems. 50 cents each.
GOLDMINE. Deep golden yellow. Plant is dwarf and produces the large beautifully
formed flowers on stiff stems. An early and continuous bloomer. 75 cents each.
L. KRAMER PEACOCK. A wonderful, puce white decorative of fine form and
splendid keeper. Dwarf branching habit with long stiff stems. $1.00 each.
MINNIE BURGLE. The best red decorative. Large, vermilion red, beautiful
form, a splendid grower, and an early and continuous bloomer. 35 cents each.
ORANGE BEAUTY. Rich glistening orange, the richest and clearest of this
popular color. New and distinct. $1.00 each.
QUEEN MARY. Beautiful soft rose pink. Very large with long stiff stems.
Plant very strong and vigorous grower. 50 cents each.
One each of 6 grand Decorative Dahlias described above for $3.50.
8 Remarkable Giant Century Dahlias
This collection embraces not only the largest flowers 6 to 8 inches across, but new types and colors. We are the originators of this wonderful class. We introduced the first, the
celebrated 20th Century, in 1901. This collection should be in every garden.
CREAM CENTURY. Very large, beautiful form, on long stems. Color rich tumn shades. Rich yellow, overlaid bronzy scarlet, lightened, suffused and edged
cream as the name suggests. 25 cents each. salmon rose. An early and extremely profuse bloomer. 50 cents each. ;
ECKFORD CENTURY. Immense size; pure white spotted pink, penciled crim- MRS. WENDEL REBER. Very large; buff pink, suffused scarlet. A Giant in
son. 20 cents each. every way, and such delicate coloring. 50 cents each. ;
GEISHA CENTURY. Yellow and scarlet. The Geisha colors, but produced ROSE PINK CENTURY. Soft rose pink. Very large on stiff erect stems. 15
on long stiff stems. A great acquisition. 50 cents each. cents each. a , \
JOSEPHINE. Very large, of beautiful, regular form and borne on very long stiff WILDFIRE CENTURY. Intense vivid scarlet. A Dwarf sturdy branching
stems. 50 cents ae grower, throwing the flowers on stiff stems well above the foliage. 20 cents each.
_ MRS. JOSEPH LUCAS. Immense size, and a wonderful combination of Au- One each of 8 Remarkable Giant Century Dahlias described above for $2.50.
S — l Off The Dahlias¥described on this page embrace the very best new varieties offered this year for the first time and the best tried and true standard varieties.
pecia Cr The complete 7 collections for $20.00. This is a special introduction offer and will not appear again.
Book, “THE DAHLIA,” Fifth Edition. By Lawrence K. Peacock. 80 pages, 7} by 10%, beautifully illustrated. 5th and revised edition. A practical treatise on its habits, characteristics,
culture, classification and history, by one who for 34 years has never failed to have a crop of the finest blooms in their season, regardless of conditions. Price 50 cents, postpaid. Free
on request with all orders amounting to $5.00 or more.
We are the largest Dahlia Growers in the world. Send for our catalogue entitled /Vorld’s Best Dahlias, the leading American Dahlia catalogue. It tells the plain truth about the best
PEACOCK DAHLIA FARMS P. O. BERLIN, NEW JERSEY
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
178
**GILSON’’
STANDS FOR
TSS: = ih
Yes, a tool for every purpose! Whether you
cultivate a flower bed on your front lawn or a
— patriotic acre food garden, there are several
tools among the many we make, that will help
you do the work better, in less time. Our
business has doubled and trebled the last few
years, because our labor savers have made
many friends.
“You Can’t Say Too Much
About The Gilson Weeder’’
says the Editor of The Garden
Magazine, and thousands of Home
gardeners agree with him. A dou-
d ble edged, oscillating blade, a set
of strong teeth, and a stout six foot ash handle
make the Gilson Weeder the most formidable
foe to weeds any one may wish. And it’s just
as safe to let the children use it as though you
use it yourself. Three and one-half, five, six,
and eight inch blades for flower beds, light soils
and wide rows, at moderate prices from $1.00
up. Gilson Weeders shorten garden hours.
The Same Holds Good of
The Liberty Cul-
tivator Weeder
It stands
DEAE 2
i
drudgery.
As shown
alongside
with seven
specially
— constructed
= teeth, it
— breaks up
soil, pulverizes and up-roots weeds from four
to ten inches wide. Furnished with five foot
ash handle or with special wheel frame, as a
wheelhoe. Special size for gardeners, who
mean business, nine teeth covering fourteen
inches in one operation.
Hand Weeders and Dandelion Diggers, Too
For the sake of your garden and results from it, investi-
gate the really complete Gilson line of garden tools. Most
good dealers handle them. If not, send to us for descrip-
tive pamphlets and prices.
J. E. GILSON COMPANY
Port Washington Wisconsin
RE-MOVE-ABLE STEEL
CLOTHES POSTS & FLAG POLES
CosT LESS THAN WOOD
| No holes to dig.
Won’t disfigure
lawn. Set it your-
self in steel socket
driven in ground.
Poles and posts of
rust proof galvan-
24) ized steel filled #] fag
‘ith / with concrete. In- Poles
| .‘stantly removable. |] > St
= Cannot decay, last life- rs idier
time. 3etter and Meme
iQ. cheaper than wood E orials
~~ Also makers of Tenni
net posts and fence
posts. Ask dealers or
write us for Folder G.
NEWARK STEEL POST CO.
Newark, New Jersey
GARDEN TOOLS
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Medal Commemorative of War
Gardens
MEDAL to commemorate the war service
of the Home Gardens of America has been
presented to the heads of the governments of the
United States, England, France, Belgium, and
Italy, and to the world leaders in food control by
the National War Garden Commission.
The medal was designed by a committee
headed by George Frederick Kunz, Ph.D., Sc.D.,
an international authority on commemorative
medals and president of the American Scenic and
Historic Preservation Seciety. The committee
of the National War Garden Commission ap-
WERBERT C.NOOVER
> THE SEEDS OF VICTORY ~
\o PMSEWE THE FRUITS OF PEACE
>
(7 Wcreesn
pointed by its president Charles Lathrop Pack,
to have charge of the work and the presentation
is composed of Honorable Myron T. Herrick,
former ambassador to France; Dr. John Grier
Hibben, president of Princeton University; and
Mr. John Hays Hammond, the noted mining
engineer.
The medal has been designed with the object
of representing, in as simple manner as possible,
the country’s military service and the support
given to it by those who quietly but persistently
worked in their war gardens. On the obverse is
the figure of a young woman dressed in loose shirt
and trousers and kneeling on the ground in an
open field, working over some young garden
plants. In low relief and drawn small in scale
so as to seem distant, are soldiers marching
directly across the medal, and forming a decora-
tive band just below the centre.
The decorative motive for the reverse is a
basket hamper filled with the varied product of a
war garden. Above the basket and around the
edge are the words, “National War Garden
Commission.” Under the basket appears the
name of the recipient and underneath that the
words, “‘The seeds of victory insure the fruits of
peace,” a hoe and a rifle crossed and the dates
1916-1919.
‘2! ee
ae
M3
The moral of this is: Never leave the rake on the ground teeth up
You Will Hunt for sheds
When the Sun Gets High
You will want this shade around your
home, too—not at your neighbor’s. More-
over, you will want trees that are large enough
to be valuable this summer.
HICKS BIG TREES
will give immediate effects; you won’t have
to wait for them to grow big, they are big
now. You can have them transplanted to
your place almost over night, and when you
want shade you'll have it. Send. today for
“SHADE”
A new Hicks monograph telling about big
shade trees which are’ ready to make your
mid-summer days as delightful
as days in June. Write
today for a free copy.
Hicks Nurseries
Box M
Westbury, L.I.,N.Y. ¢
—WHWT TTA ooo AcooTTGCAToTT ex
The New York Botanical Garden
INSTRUCTION IN GARDENING
Practical instruction is offered in vegetable, flower
and fruit gardening, greenhouse and nursery prac-
tice, together with lectures, laboratory, field and
shop work in garden botany, zoology, pathology,
landscapé design, soils, plant chemistry and related
subjects.
The curriculum is planned for the education of
any persons who would become trained gardeners or
fitted to be superintendents of estates or parks.
Students may be admitted at any time.
Circulars and other information will be mailed on application.
THE NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN
BRONX PARK, NEW YORK CITY
GARDEN LABELS
Know when, where and what you planted. Label your garden.
100 wood labels in assortment from the big 12-inch for marking
garden rows to little copper-wired label for marking trees and
shrubs. Attractively packed with marking pencil 70 cts.,
post paid.
c. H. GORDINIER Troy, N. Y.
Ideal for small gardens and truck
patches. With its several tools—
which are quickly interchanged
—you can plow, open furrows,
cover them, cultivate and hoe.
The large wheel and “double
curve’’—which is an exclusive
feature—elevate the draft and
make the
Leader Garden Plow
easier to operate than any other
hand tool on the market.
Readily adjusted for adults
or children—just the thing
for families where everyone
helps in the garden. Your
hardware dealer carries them
and you will be surprised how
| reasonable they are in price.
Descriptive
Solder sent
on request,
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Maguzine in writing—and we will, too
a oe
at gaa te
——e t=
ym
—
ne
May, 1919
Y;
eae
fi Giaesescscaoraae
< an — J
a
\ oer |
So mn A
PERFECTION
CULTIVATOR
The lightest cultivator on the
market, hence easy to operate. A
perfect machine to do the job of
cultivating completely; it cuts the
weeds, pulverizes the soil, throws
the soil to or from the rows. Leaf-
lifters prevent injury to plants. A
simple change of bolts automatically
adapts the machine to shallow or
deep cultivation, deep for use on
loam or shallow cultivation on heavy
clay. Of simplest construction and
strongest workmanship.
Any of 3 Sizes, $3.50 each
No: 1, with two discs, on which 6 inch or 7 inch
eae may be used, will work rows 9g to 11 inches
wide.
No. 2, with four discs for use with 814 inch knife,
will do the work between 11 to 14 inch wide rows.
No. 3, with four discs, and rz inch knife, works 13
to 16 inches wide.
Order to-day—don’t fight weeds the old-
fashioned way. Descriptive circular free as
is also our catalogue of seeds for present
planting,
Leonard Seed Co.
226-30 W. Kinzie St. Chicago, Ill.
LEONARD’S BULK
GARDEN SEEDS
are sold by dealers in all parts of the
country. If your dealer cannot supply you
with Leonard’s Seeds write to our retail
department, 810 W. Randolph St., Chicago
Mt
Va JIS OC SO USD O DEC UDECGEDOSAON
<4
Sy 2 >
VI, Youll find out this year ;
Ky or next that you need a SS
“PENNSYLVANIA” Quality Mower DS
especially if in the meantime
you buy “just a mower”
ZZ -
At we ae
Hardware ov) b
Dealers w
an
Seedsmen
LT TILIA LIL
im i wi i l mn ba ie SAUNA MARC TTA tA TS
HLT ! ==
il
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 179
Bobbink & Atkins
Visit
Nursery
Ask for
Catalogue
You have still time for planting, but
DON’T DELAY ORDERING
AMERICAN HOLLY
compact specimens 2 to 3. feet high, can be transplanted with-
out defoliating—exceptional
BOXWOOD
in globes, pyramids and bushes
RHODODENDRONS
in great variety
The above are worthy of special recognition in addition
to our regular complete collection of all PLANTS, TREES,
EVERGREENS and VINES. |
Order Now and Save Disappointment
RUTHERFORD NEW JERSEY
Fa OTAMTTT UT TC TU cM
Noo2z? BANNER iinseraver
GUARANTEED
ee ee TT TTL MMMM OMA MMMM MUM MMLAU LLAMA DMM MMMM MUU UMMA UNUM MLNMMO MINUTO U MMMM TTT
This Sprayer is adapted for all Spraying purposes. It cannot be excelled for spraying
garden vegetables, plants, shrubbery, trees, etc., in fact, will spray anything in liquid
form, and is easily operated by man or boy.
Heavy 4 gallon galvanized steel tank, well
riveted to stand heavy pressure. Also made
entirely of brass. Tank 21 in. high, 7 in. di-
ameter. Automatic brass nozzle, throws long
distance fine mist or coarse spray, will not
clog and wastes no liquids. Pump is brass 2
in. diameter, with heavy brass casting. Han-
dle locks in pump head for carrying sprayer.
Adjustable strap for carrying sprayer over
shoulder.
At your Hardware or Seed Store. Ask for the '
BANNER Sprayer. Don’t take a substitute.
If he hasn’t it, write us. Manufactured only § |
i :
D.B. SMITH & CO., UTICA, NY.,U.S.A. 2.
Novae suueususeaaaannoDsaneuvanDey
New York City Agents, J. M. THORBURN & CO., Seedsmen, 53 Barclay St.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
May, 1919
RUNNING
WATER
HE New Deming
Marvel System
centr
a day!
gives your home all the advantages of a city water system,
for less than a cent a day. Operated by gas, gasoline or
electrical power, it works automatically and needs no at-
tention. This new system brings you drinking
water, fresh, cold and. sparkling, direct from
source of supply (not warm tank-stored water).
Send for water supply booklet and select the system
best suited to your needs.
THE DEMING CO., 308 Depot St., Salem, Ohio
Silver Medal Iris
Afterglow; F. C. C. Mass. Hort. So.; a
pink-or buff-gray, shading to a warm yellow
through the centre is but one of the seed-
lings for which we have received some 20
List price $5.00, special $3.00.
awards.
THE GLEN ROAD IRIS GARDENS
GRACE STURTEVANT, Prop.
Wellesley Farms Massachusetts
bloomers.
ponds. —
little soil.
WATER
SYSTEMS
HOW OUR EVERGREENS
ARE NURSED
We have acre upon acre of them—perfect, vigor-
ous plants. Continual cultivation at the proper
time, well-sustained fertility of soil, ruthless
weeding out of trees that do not develop as
they should, regular transplanting to insure
2 adaptability to mew surroundings—these
combine to produce plants of surpris~-
ing vitality and hardihood. They are
bound to “take” to almost any environ-
ment and grow into sturdy, orna-
mental trees.
We have been growing such trees
for more than a century with singu-
., lar success, till we have over 800
acres and many friends who ap-
preciate our reliability. You'll
never regret buying from us, be-
cause we cannot afford to disap-
: 220820 point you.
AMERICAN NURSERY CO.
Flushing, L. I. New York
Send for catalogue
and Special Ever-
green Pamphlet
@ @ @
Tropical Water Lilies
Among the most beautiful are Mrs. Woodrow Wilson,
Panama-Pacific, Wm. Becker, and Mrs. E. B. Bedford,
all prize winning varieties, but my general list of tender Lilies
includes all the varieties of worth, both in day and night
I also grow many hardy varieties for pools and
All easily grown, needing only water, sunshine and a
Write to-day for booklet listing these wonderful plants for the
aquatic garden.
William Tricker, Box E, Arlington, New Jersey
I will be glad to assist you in your plans.
ML
THE GREENHOUSE BEAUTIFUL
1 i
i HA
Whether large or small—a greenhouse adds to any grounds an atmosphere =
of distinction.
“right” in every detail as in every
I Ma iii ini ‘
ee ee
ye ae ;
ea ls llth
A Sots Sy nS
To insure this to the fullest degree the structure must be |
essential. Built on such a standard |
Foley Greenhouses
To-day lead in reputation for true worth. Scientifically planned _
—carefully made and skillfully erected—they give owners the
greatest measure of satisfaction.
“The Greenhouse Beautiful’’—It is full of suggestions and proofs.
THE FOLEY GREENHOUSE MFG. CO.,
Write for your copy of book
180 N. STATE ST. CHICAGO : |
Il
HANI i
COMING EVENTS !
Chus & SOCIETY NEWS
Pennsylvania Horticultural Society
Officers for the year 1919: President, James
Boyd; Vice-Presidents, Robert Craig, Henry F.
MENG Waller’ Kleimbom, I. Of ido
Are Sidney W. Keith; Secretary, David
ust.
Meetings of the Society are held on the 3rd
Tuesday of each month, except July and August
at 3:30 P.M. at Griffith Hall, 1420 Chestnut
Street, Philadelphia.
Exhibitions for toro: Peonies, Out Door
Cut Flowers, and Hybrid Tea Roses, at Fire-
mans’ Hall, Bryn Mawr, Pa., June 3rd and 4th.
Sweet Peas, Hardy Perennials, Hybrid Perpet-
ual Roses, at the Jenkintown Club and Reading
Room, Jenkintown, Pa., June 24th and 25th.
Dahlias, Out Door Cut Flowers, Vegetables, at
Masonic Hall, Ardmore, Pa., September 16th.
and 17th.
Annual Chrysanthemum Show, at the First
Regiment Armory, Broad and Callowhill Sts.,
Philadelphia, November 5th to 8th, inclusive.
At all the Exhibitions, prizes are offered for vege-
tables for the School Gardens and War Gardens.
New York Botanical Garden
Spring Lectures, 1919. Free Public Lectures.
will be delivered in the Lecture Hall of the
Museum Building of the Garden, Bronx Park,.
Saturday afternoons, at four o'clock, as follows:
May 3. “Evergreens,’” by Mr. G. V. Nash.
“Plant Hybrids: How Produced:
Their Uses,” by Dr. A. B. Stout. (Exhibition
of Flowers, May to and 11). May 17. “The
Future of American Forestry,” by Prof. J. W.
Toumey. May 26. “The Recognition of
Medicinal and Poisonous Properties in Unknown
Plants,” by Dr. H. H. Rusby. May 31. “Floral
and Scenic Features of the Panama Canal
Zone,” by Dr. M. A. Howe. June 7. “The
Botanical Garden at Buitenzorg, Java,’ Dr. H.
A. Gleason. (Exhibition of Roses and Peonies,
June 7 and 8). June 14. “Destructive In-
sects,’ by Dr. F. J. Seaver.
The lectures, which occupy an hour, will be
illustrated by lantern slides and otherwise.
American Peony Society
The annual meeting of this progressive organiza-
tion for this year will be held at Detroit, Mich. The
exact date is yet to be fixed; but, of course, it will
be in the season of bloom and may be assumed as
being somewhere about the middle of June. Any-
one interested should communicate with the
secretary, Prof. A. P. Saunders, Clinton, N. Y.,
| who will be pleased to send definite information -
when the time is fixed.
American Rose Society
The twentieth annual meeting was held at
Hotel Breslin, New York City, April 2. Presi-
dent Hammond in his annual report reviewed
briefly the development of the Society during
the twenty years of its existence, and emphasized |
the broadened interest in Rose growing which
has resulted during the period. ‘The Secretary
reported a membership, April 1st, of 1203, and
the Treasurer reported a balance of $2137.58.
The election of officers resulted as follows:
President, Captain George C. Thomas, Chestnut
Hill, Philadelphia, Pa.;. Vice-President, F. L.
Atkins, Rutherford, N. J., Treasurer, Harry O.
May, Summit, N. J.;’ Secretary, Prof. Bi A.
White, Ithaca, N. Y. Members of the Exe-
cutive Committee for three years, Robert Pyle,
West Grove, Pa.; George H. Peterson, Fair
Lawn, N. J.; James Boyd, Haverford, Pa.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
May, 1919
ee
Maurice Fuld
announces
The May 1919 Edition
of
ee
i)
“My Garden Favorites”
JUST ‘‘delightfully different” book
which tells Jou what you can plant
during May, June and July in your
garden, and furthermore it tells you exact-
ly how to plant them. It is the Verdict of
the public that ‘““M:y Garden Favorites” is
the most charming, the most fascinating
and the most helpful garden guide ever
issued. A free copy awaits your call.
MAURICE FULD
PLANTSMAN :: SEEDSMAN
7 West 45th Street
[Nn
cc
New York
MRS. J. P. KING, Garden-Architect
Hexenhutte Farm, West Nyack, N. Y.
| Invites correspondence with owners contemplating
alterations or the laying out of new gardens;
‘| especially owners of small places. No charge fo
first examination and preliminary report.
r
BEAUTIFUL DAHLIAS THAT BLOOM
For Season of 1919
Our favorite ‘‘Hard to Beat” dollar dahlia collection of 20 choice
double dahlias, including cactus, decorative, fancy, show and
paeony varieties, different colors, all named, and labelled, is afprize
winner: It will please you—try it. nt postpaid anywhere on
receipt of price, $1.00. Write to-day for catalogue, it’s free.
ENTERPRISE DAHLIA FARM
Harry L. Pyle Atco, New Jersey
By FRANCES DUNCAN
Formerly Garden Editor of
The Ladies’ Home Journal
Home Vegetables and Small
Fruits
Their Culture and Preservation
Illustrated. $1.40 net.
The Joyous Art of Gardening
Illustrated. $1.75 net.
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 181
a TTTtTttCCrCrCrrAAA
Destroy Bugs 2
Prevent Blights
*“‘Auto-Spray’’ your Victory Garden =
A minute’s pumping and your Auto-Spray No. 1 is ready =
for business. It will put on the spray under high pres- =
sure while you have only to guide the nozzle. Your hand =
controls the shut-off, preventing waste of high-priced "5s AR AE =
chemicals. The patented non-clog nozzle insures a thor- with ewes Noe =
ough job without bothersome delays. _
outfits are made in nearly 40 styles =
and sizes. ‘There’s one for every ==
spraying job. All are guaranteed =
to be mechanically perfect and to =
give entire satisfaction. a
Our Spraying Calendar is a mine of a
spraying information. It tells when =
to spray and thesolutiontouse. Send forit | 2
to-day—free; also ask for 1919 catalogue. rT
THE E. C. BROWN CO. == =
850 MAPLE ST., ROCHESTER, NY. EZ 2
ee TTTTTETctCtC_€«« ccc E
Moss Aztec Pottery
Offers a wide choice of objects, from simple fern dishes and
bud vases to impressive jardinieres and plant stands. Its
predominating characteristic is refined elegance in designs and
colors. A post card request will bring you the “Moss Aztec”
catalogue and name of nearest dealer.
DISTINCTIVE FERN PAN $1.50
is square with
separate liners
measuring 7x7
3 inches by 4 inches
4 deep. Order as
H No. 495.
PETERS & REED
So. Zanesville, O.
cc
SAVE YOUR TREES, PLANTS. FLOWERS
From the ravages of the San Jose and other scale insects, plant
lice and parasitic fungi by spraying them with
SULCO-VB
A combined contact insecticide and. fungicide of unusual merit.
Prepare now to protect your rose bushes from green lice.
Please send us your dealer's name and address and we will
see that you are supplied.
“Established 1862’’
COOK & SWAN CO. Inc., SULCO-VB—Dept. G., 148 Front St., New York, N. Y.
7 ft. high ROSE ARCHES 4 ft. wide |
Heavy Rust Proof $12.00 Each Painted $8.50 Each
Any Size or Shape Made to Order
Wire and Iron Fence—for every purpose
Trellises—Entrance Gates—Tennis Fixtures
A. T. BROOK CO., 37 Barclay St., New York, N.Y.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
182
Merchants.
‘“LAMMOND’S SLUG SHOT”
USED FROM OCEAN TO OCEAN
A light, composite, fine powder, easily distributed either by duster,
bellows, or in water by spraying.
Currant Worms, Young Potato Beetles, Cabbage Worms, Slugs, Sow Bugs,
etc., and it is also strongly impregnated with fungicides.
in Popular Packages at Popular Prices.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Thoroughly reliable in killing
(@ Put up
Sold by Seed Dealers and
HAMMOND’S SLUG SHOT WORKS, BEACON, N. Y.
May, 1919
GOLD MEDAL GOODS
ie
For a pamphlet worth having on Insects
and Blights, write for pamphlet.
OUR PRODUCTS ARE SOLD BY SEED DEALERS AND MERCHANTS IN U. S. AND CANADA
Support Your Roses
Dahlias or Tomatoes
with the ‘“‘Adjusto”
The ADJUSTO Plant
Support is a simple,
strong, low-priced support which
can be adjusted to any height.
There’s no wear-out to them, they can be
used overand over again. If your dealer
hasn’t them write us today. ,
FORREST SEED CO., Box 40, Cortland, N. Y.
| BEAUTIFY YOUR HOME with
TASTY PLANTINGS
We furnish planting suggestions Free
3 Everblooming Hydrangeas, 5 Dwarf Deutzias,
5 Dwarf Spireas, 3 Weigelias, 5 Dwarf Barberry.
21 Hardy Shrubs, 2-3 ft., $10.00 with planting
plan.
Five 2 yr. Roses, $3.00 Postpaid.
Cl. American Beauty, Cr. Rambler, Everbloom-
ing-Cochet (pink), Radiance (red), Mad. Plantier
(white). Guaranteed to bloom first season.
Gardening ‘“‘(Manual” with each order FREE.
HORTICULTURAL GARDENS, Unadilla, N. Y.
25 Best Dahlias
Over 5000 Dahlia varieties are in cultivation. After years
of testing we have selected from these 25 that have proved
to be the best general purpose kinds to form a well balanced
collection of the different types. Send for price list.
NORTON GARDENS, Hyattsville, Md.
“There have been no war stories like the two at
the end of this book,” writes an old Kipling lover
about “‘A Diversity of Creatures,” a new Kipling
book. Have you read them yet?
Doubleday, Page & Co. Garden City, New York
TN R (@) S e d a le R (@) S e S AT
ss
lice
ORCHIDS
Largest importers and growers of
OrcHips in the United States
Send twenty-five cents for catalogue. This amount will be refunded
on your first order.
LAGER & HURRELL
Orchid Growers and Importers SUMMIT, N. J.
a
, 4
ee
Lattice
Fences
Garden
Houses
The Beautifier of Permanence and
: Individuality for Public and
Private Grounds
Transforming barren spaces into || Gates and
spots of rarest charm and beauty. Arbors &
When writing enclose roc and
Ask for Pergola Album “*H-30"
HARTMANN - SANDERS COMPANY
Elston and Webster Aventis, CHICAGO
New York Office, sast 39th St., New York City
=
YUU
THE BRAND -PEONIES
Originated by 0. F. BRAND & SON
= America’s Foremost Hybridizers of the Peony
IF you are looking for something new in
i
peonies, varieties that your neighbor
doesn't have, something as good as the very
best and yet distinct and different, come to
my gardens during the blooming season in
June and choose from the world’s best just
what you want.
Ishall have 110 entirely new varieties of
1919 hybrids in bloom this year that no other
grower has. Amongthese will be my wonder
peony, Vietory Chateau Thierry.
Send for my catalogue and if you wish to
come to see these new flowers write me and
Tin turn will write to you when to come.
Visitors from all over America came to see
my plantings the last three seasons.
A. M. BRAND, 40 Years a Peony Grower
FARIBAULT, MINN.
CUTE U EEOC
A DAUGHTER OF THE LAND
By Gene Stratton-Porter
“Honest, sincere, big-boned, strong”
Doubleday, Page & Co.
TAVUPDUGETAPUPUPOUPOPPOOPECDTOEPPPDORIOTLOIPPOPIPODEPOEIPLIEPEDPP DOE D |
ii
Net, $1.50
HNO
There are Rosedale Roses for every place
and purpose: Hardy Hybrid Perpetuals,
Rugosa, Moss, Wichuraiana and Tree
Roses. Other Rosedale specialties are:
Evergreens Shrubbery
We have repeatedly served some of the
finest estates in the Country. Yet our
“Prices Are as Low as Consistent with
AOA RATATAT
Highest Quality.” a
Write at once for 1919 Catalogue 2
Rosedale Nurseries e
S. G. HARRIS, Proprietor =
Box A Tarrytown, N.Y. =
al LNA
GALOWAY
POTTERY
Will give the
ESSENTIAL TOUCH
- The Bird Bath illustrated
will be the Delight of any
Garden, Madein our light
stony gray Terra Cotta, it
stands 36 in. high with a bowl 24 in. This
piece is specially priced at $27.50.
Flower Pots, Vases, Boxes, Bird Baths, Fountains, Sun
Dials, Gazing Globes, Benches, etc., are included in
our Catalogue, which will be sent upon request.
GALLOWAY TERRA COITA ©,
3214 WALNUT ST. PHILADELPHIA.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in wriling—and we will, too
May, 1919
ANDORRA-GROWN
TREES
Shrubs and
Plants
OUR Spring offering is six
hundred acres of well-
grown trees, shrubs and
plants. 100-page price list
on request.
Andorra
Nurseries
Wm. Warner Harper, Prop.
Box 100
| Chestnut Hill
: Phila., Penna.
The latest word in
‘ ; efficiency and econ-
omy in Gardening with Glass.
Sash of all sizes carried in stock.
Small, inexpensive, ready-made Green-
houses for summer delivery.
Suntrapz—the wonder working plant
_ boxes that come by mail, 65 cents each
postpaid.
Get our Catalogue of Garden outfits. Free
Sunlight Double Glass Sash Co.
927 E. Broadway Louisville, Ky.
GROWN IN NEW JERSEY
under soil and climate advantages, Steele’s
Sturdy Stock is the satisfactory kind.
Great assortment of Fruit, Shade, and Evergreen
Trees, Small-fruit Plants, Hardy Shrubs, Roses,
etc. Fully described in our Beautiful Illustrated
Descriptive Catalogue—it’s free!
STEELE’S NURSERIES, Palmyra, N. J.
IRISES and YELLOW LILIES
1 Each of 12 Broad-leaved Irises
6 Each of 12 Broad-leaved Irises 4.00
1 Each of 4 Siberian Irises 50
’ 6 Each of 4 Siberian Irises 2.00
: 1 Each of 5 Yellow Day-lilies 1.00
1 Each of 2 Eulalias and 1 Calamus .50
Price includes postage. For rates on larger quantities see
price-list. A postal card will get it for you.
ORONOGO FLOWER GARDENS, Carterville, Mo.
USE
: 5 WIzak D |
TRADE Aa
CONCENTRATED PULVERIZED
» MANURE
Superior quality—dried and sterilized
in high temperature driers—finely pul-
verized —unequaled natural fertil-
izer for lawn, fruit, vegetable or
sf flower garden. Makes big profits on
field crops because it gives the soil what it
needs to make things grow.
Ask for booklet, prices
q and freight rates to-day.
4 The Pulverized Manure Co.
# 20 Union Stock Yards
ss
Chicago
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
183
|
‘ing “s" Greenhouses
Have a distinctive type of construction which permits of great strength with-
out the necessity of heavy shadow-casting supports, and lends itself to the
graceful curves and sweeping lines so necessary to architectural beauty.
Let our experts help you plan your Greenhouse. We will submit plans and
estimates without charge or obligation.
KING CONSTRUCTION CO.
427 King’s Road, North Tonawanda, N. Y. 10 E. 43rd St., New York City
“FAIRFAX SEED”
Get my free book which is a practical guide to
everyone wno wants to have a successful garden.
It gives real, practical information how to grow
bumper crops of the choicest vegetables from our
seeds which are fresh, clean and have been tested.
We do not carry seeds over from season to season.
$50.00 IN GOLD
Will be given in prizes for the finest specimen of vegetables
grown from Fairfax proven tested seeds.
Special complete assortment for a 50 foot garden containing
20 full size packets vegetable seeds for $1.50.
We will mail you free upon request this practical Guide to
successful gardening.
W.R. GRAY
At DeKalb Nurseries I have an unusual col-
lection of Irises, both Japanese and German,
embracing many rare varieties and alluring
colors. Spring is a desirable time for trans-
planting. Let me send you my
NEW GENERAL CATALOGUE
which will introduce to you these Irises, and
) many other perennials, as well as special plants
Mm for rockeries and ground covers, shrubs, ever-
H@ greens and shade trees. Write to-day. H
Adolf Muller xcéS488,
Norristown,Penna.
Box 6 Oakton, Va.
Don't Sign a |Treaty
With Your Plant Enemies!
There is no peace in your garden or lawn while these enemies are
free to destroy your plants. The prevalent high temperature of
the past winter has made it necessary for you to take extra pre-
caution with your plants this year. This high temperature with practically no severe weather, has given
your plant enemies opportunity to prepare for a great spring offensive. Will you be ready to meet them with
APHINE FUNGINE VERMINE
Remedy for green, black, white fly, For rust, mildew, and blights on flowers, Will destroy any soil enemies attacking
thrips and soft scale. vegetables and tender plants. roots, as angle worms, eels, and the like.
The Recognized Standard Insecticide
Put up in various sizes to meet the requirements of any garden or orchard. Ask your dealer.
Aphine Manufacturing Company, Madison, New Jersey
The “Pennfield-Spring Lever’’
Cultivator
Do As Much, in an Evening As With Any Other in a Whole Day
Operated at an even walking gait. Does not crush the wheel into the
ground, nor tire the wrists, but the power from the momentum of the body is
utilized with the hand and forearm ina natural, powerful grip and leverage,
operating easily at an even gait, by man or woman. Body is always 3 to 5
inches from spring lever bar, to which arm
braces are attached. Complete set of ad- -\
justable forged steel hoes (8}-in. hock and Se
“V”’ shaped) and 2plows, right and left for
furrowing, hilling or ridging. Made of best
materials. Order NOW and beready for the
season. Crated for shipment. $13.75.
le 1an Co.
he J. M. Hartman
Box 322 B, LEBANON, PA,
By utilizing a belt brace one
who has lost an arm or hand can
readily operate a Pennfield.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
May, 1919
meget nai PS ~~ re
ar Ee OS eh pe
Dodson Wren ~
House, 4 com-
partments. 28
in. high, 18 in. in
diameter, Price &5.
iid)
Price $12.
Dodson Bird Houses
should be erected now so as to be ready for the
birds when they seek nesting sites.
Our song birds destroy billions of insect pests, pro-
tect our crops, shrubs, gardens and repay you
a thousand fold with their beauty and song.
“a
Martin House.
Cottage style. 28
compartments, 32 x 27 in.
Dodson Bird Houses
Because they are built by a bird lover who lives in a bird sanctuary and has A
spent a life time in studying the song birds, their habits, and how to attract them
around beautiful “‘Bird Lodge,” his home on the Kankakee River,
OrderNow=Don’tWa
Joseph H. Dodson 769" iinrsison “Avenue. Kankakee, Illinois trinsic
Dodson Sparrow Trap guaranteed to rid your community of these quarrelsome pests. Price $7.00.
Dodson agular |)
Bluebird high, Flicker House, 16%
House 4 m8 in. in in. long, r2 in. |
com part- diameter. wide, rz in. deep.
ments. Price #5. Price #5.
Win the Birds
U
s
a
it VA
Complete directions and instructions accom- < was
pany every order. Free book on request, tell-
ing how to attract song birds around your Dodson
home, illustrating Dodson line giving prices. Cement
Also beautiful colored bird picture free. _, Bird Bath
heicht32in
Price ®1%.
eRe 2
are a source of endless
pleasure. The birds
they attract to your
garden bring life, color
and delightful entertain-
ment.
Erkins Bird Baths are to be had
in a variety of distinctive designs
and are rendered in Pompeian Stone,
a marble-like composition that is
practically everlasting.
This Bird
Bath diame-
ter 24 inches,
height 30 in-
ches, $20.00,
f.o.b. N.Y.
Illustrated catalogue sent
on reguest
THE ERKINS
STUDIOS
219 Lexington Avenue
NEW YORK
$1.25 each
Me
Back to Nature for the Birds
If wanted by Parcel Post include
Postage; 3 weigh 10 lbs.
CRESCENT CO. “‘Birdville’?’ Toms River, N. J.
Bird Houses
Give the birds a few
log houses just such as
they find in the natural
forest, $x.10 each; three
fcr $3.00. Mailing weight
three pounds each.
A Charming
Birdbath
of Artificial Stone
fifteen inches square,
three inches thick, hol-
lowed out round twoand
one half inches deep in
centre sloping to three-
eighths at edge. Inex-
pensive, Practical, Artis-
tic. List on request.
Three for $5.50
Verona, New Jersey
Price $2.00
W. H. BAYLES
Designers of artistic Rustic
Bird Homes
FOREST CITY BIRD
HOMES
_1810 W. State St., Rockford, Ill.
Berry and Vegetable Plants
Leading varieties STRAWBERRY, RasPBERRY, BLACKBERRY,
GoosEBERRY, CuRRANT, Grape, AsParacus, RuuBARB,
Horserapisu, BEET, BRussELS SPROUTS, CAULIFLOWER, CaB-
BAGE, CeLery, Ecc, Letruce, Onion, Parsiey, PrEpper,
Sweet Porato, Tomato, Frowerinc Piants, Fruit and
ORNAMENTAL TREES, SHRUBS. Catalogue free.
HARRY D. SQUIRES, Good Ground, N. Y.
“No library complete without Kipling complete”
SUNDIALS
Real Bronze Colonial Designs
From $3.50 Up
Also Bird Baths, Garden Benches, Fountain
Sprays and other garden requisites.
Manufactured by
The M. D. JONES CO.
Concord, Mass,
Send for illustrated Price-List
Cleanliness, convenience, good ventilation durability are the chief
reasons for the ever increasing use of Hodgson Portable Poultry
Houses. They are constructed from vermin-proofed red cedar and
shipped in painted and fitted sections. Poultry is healthier and you
are saved trouble because of the scientific construction of the houses.
Brooder Jor 60 to 100 chicks No. 3 Poultry House Jor 60 hens—2 units
HODGSON PORTABLE HOUSES
Setting Coop
Send for the illustrated Hodgson Catalogue and from it order the
house you need. You have only to bolt together the sections,
which is but a short and simple task.
E. FEF. HODGSON CO., Room 811, 71-78 Federal Street,
Boston, Mass.—6 Enst 59th St.. New York City
SEWAGE DISPOSAL
Eliminate The Cesspool With
Its Foul Odors and Serious
Health Menace.
The Aten Sewage Disposal System costs
but very little and can be installed by a
novice. No technical knowl-
edge required.
Self-operating
at absolutely .¢>-¥
no expense. EO:
Our booklet
No. I tells
how it works.
‘Ah Hi
oL
a
_-= ATEN
Sewage Disposal Co,
286 Fifth Ave., New York City
WANTED
Position on farm or estate by man aged 30,
single, with 10 years’ practical experience in
farm management and operation. Best refer-
ences. Box 125, care of Garden Magazine,
Garden City, N.Y.
SAVE THE TREES.—Spray for San Jose Scale,
G25 Aphis, White Fly, etc., with
3 GOOD'S#FISH OIL
; SOAP NOS
“5 a Contains nothing poisonous or injurious to plants or
animals.
FREE Our book on Tree and Plant Diseases.
Write for it to-day.
James Good, Original Maker, 2111-15 E. Susquehanna Ave., Phila.
Cabbage Plant Protection
How are you going to protect your early cabbage from the
Cabbage Maggot? We can offer you an absolutely certain method
of protecting them. Every plant will mean a head, practically
100% yield is assured, if you use our M. & M. Plant Protectors,
made of the best Tar felt. Recommended by Experimental Sta-
tions and large growers. What they have done for this man they
will do for you: '
Out of 10,000 plants that had Protectors on, 100 was cut off
by cut worms, a finer piec2 of cabbage you never saw.
Yours truly, C. E. H., Lansing, Mich.
We want everyone who reads this Adv. to try them, and if you
are in doubt, send us 25 cts. in coin and we will send you 100 as
a trial offer, postpaid. Prices Parcel Post prepaid to the 5th
Zone. 500—$1.00, 1,000—$1.50, 3,000—$4.00, 5,000—#6.00.
Cash must be sent with all orders. Address .
MODERN MFG. CO.
P. O. Box 2854, 543 N. Lawrence St., Phila., Pa
How To Keep Bees
By ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK
The most complete as well as the most in-
teresting manual on this subject. Gives full
instructions on everything to do with the care
of bees from the choice of tools to the re-
moval of the honey.
For Sale at all Book-stores. Net $1.20
Doubleday, Page & Company, Garden City, N. Y.
Garden Knowledge
Brings Garden Success
Foremost gardeners and horticulturists clearly
explain the principles underlying successful gar-
dening in the
GARDENERS’ CHRONICLE
This beautiful monthly magazine brings you timely, usable
garden knowledge, and reviews the best gardening literature
both American and European. The Gardeners’ Chronicle
is the stand-by of professional gardeners; it is a safe guide for you.
Subscription: by the year, $1.50
Gardeners’ Chronicle
286 Fifth Ave., New York
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
IMUM
5 AT
AKE SURE of your garden’s
Success by controlling the
factor which has most to do with
its success or failure—“rainfall.”’
Cornell
Systems of Irrigation
A Cornell Irrigation System, by an ar-
rangement of underground piping, will
lead the water to upright sprinklers capped
with the famous Rain Cloud Nozzles which
deliver a fine spray or a heavy rain, as you
prefer, over every part of the garden. The
volume and heaviness of the shower can
be controlled perfectly, giving just the
amount and character of irrigation which
you need. Cultivation is not interfered with by this installation.
OVERHEAD SYSTEM
For your lawns use the Cornell Underground System with Rain Cloud Nozzles. Perfect irrigation
over the whole area and no interference with mowing.
Write for illustrated literature.
UNDERGROUND SYSTEM
W. G. CORNELL CO.
ENGINEERS AND CONTRACTORS |
Plumbing, Heating, Lighting, Automatic Sprinklers, Water Supply Systems, Sewage Disposal Plants.
45 E. 17th Street, New York
_CHICAGO NEWARK, N. J. PITTSBURGH BALTIMORE PHILADELPHIA
Railway Exchange 86 Park Place 738 Oliver Bldg. Munsey Bldg. Colonial Trust Bldg.
WASHINGTON, D.C. KANSAS CITY, MO. BOSTON CLEVELAND NORFOLK
923-12 St., N. W. Commerce Trust Bldg. 334 Shawmut Avenue Leader-News Bldg. Nat’l Bank of Commerce Bldg.
Mua
MN
ity AAA tnt ttt
Hist
TUT
om
\
\
uf
\S
When It Comes to Greenhouses
Come to
SANNA NSS NN NNNOSS GURU
NEW YORK
1170 Broadway
201 Devonshire St.
SQ
SS SN
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
GARDEN
MAGAZINE
JUNE, 1919
New Large Flowered
Mockoranges
Using the Hotbed in
Summer
Palms for the Summer Porch
Growing Vegetables for
Canning PRICE
25 CENTS A COPY
Plants for the Shaded
Corner
Picking Flowers
Special Pictures
¥ " “a , 7 e 7
WOL. XXIX. NO. 5 4 P , ¥ . Rou 4
pet
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY, GARDEN CITY, NEW YORK
Every Can
—
Perfect.
!
|
—S
co
When You Use the Hall
Cold-Pack Canner
OUR canned fruit is a real de-
light to the family. Your hos-
pitality will be an event next winter if
you have a storeroom filled with fruits, —
vegetables, meats, fish and poultry, ready- ‘
to-serve, in-all their freshness and tooth-
some flavor.
Not a Big Job
With the Hall Canner your canning is made
a simple and easily accomplished task.
There will be no burned fingers—no tired
back—no dropped jars—no wasted fuel—
no cluttered kitchen—no useless mo-
tions—no delayed meals or ruffled tem-
pers. The Cold
Pack method of
canning is not an
experiment or fad,
but the
Tried, Proven and
Universally-Adopted
20th Century Method
The Hall Canner is
the one complete de-
vice for COLD-PACK
canning and preserv-
ing, as urged and de-
monstrated by the
Department of Agri-
culture and State in-
stitutions.
During the war, for the
sake of conservation,
make-shift devices were
often used, and ad-
visedly. But to-day,
the thrifty housewife
realizes that the use of
efficient and conven-
ient equipment, when
obtainable, is economy
of the first class.
If your dealer does not
sel! Hall Canners, send
us $5.50 ($6.00 west of the Rocky Mountains) and we will
ship you one complete, transportation prepaid.
Pamphlet with canning directions and time tables mailed free
upon request. Please mention your dealer’s name.
5
q ‘i,
The Hall Canner is made of 28-gauge galvanized steel;
height over all 21 in., diameter 12\% in., canning
capacity 12 jars, either pints or quarts (18 pints of
some styles). Weight 11 lbs. net. Each Canner fur-
nished with six holders. Shipped complete ready for
use, full directions.
Hall Canner Company
240 National City Bank Building, Grand Rapids, Mich.
t
Springtime
in Your Garden
should bring you the added delight of having
flowers you have never seen before. The Tulips
and Daffodils described in my Blue Book include
many rare or little known varieties, as well as
everyday kinds for everyday purposes.
It Will Be Lovelier Than Ever
if you have The Blue Book of Bulbs to help
you plan next year’s garden. Your copy is
ready for you now, but unless I have your order
by June 25th, the rare things may appear in your
neighbor’s garden—not in yours.
CHESTER JAY HUNT
Mayfair
Dept. A Little Falls, New Jersey
BERTRAND H. FARR
AND ASSOCIATES OF THE
Wyomissing Nurseries Company
Invite the readers of this magazine to visit Wyo-
missing the first week in June to View the
Peontes and Irises
which will then be in the height of their glory.
An enthusiastic friend writes us that the floral treas-
ures of California are “not any more beautiful than
your Peony fields in June.”
June 3d to 7th are usually the best dates, but as the
blooming season may vary slightly intending visitors
should write us the last week in May for information. We will then
advise you of the most favorable date, and make arrangements to
meet you at the station, (Reading, Penna.).
If you cannot come, write me for a copy of Farr’s Hardy Plant
Specialties (sixth edition, issue of 1918), which illustrates and des-
cribes my wonderful collections of Peonies and Irises.
Special Catalogue of Dutch Bulbs — Hyacinth, Tulips, Narcissi
—ready June ist. Write for it.
BERTRAND H. FARR
Wyomissing Nurseries Company
104 GARFIELD AVENUE WYOMISSING, PENNA.
ORES
iii
JUNE,
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 185
TCCiii iii nti
!
DAPHNE CNEORUM, Garland Flower,
should be better known and more universally
planted. In May and June it throws a pro-
HT
Now is the time to get busy if you propose
to do any planting this spring. If unacquainted
fusion of
rosy -lilac
flowers with
scattering
blossoms all
through the
season. A
delightful
evergreen
with Nurs-
ery pro-
ducts, send
PO bhi
Handbook
of General
Information
on Trees
and Hardy
Shrubs. It
will assist
you in mak-
ing select-
ions and tell you where
you can get Nursery
Stock that is hardy and
well-grown.
for the rock-
ehy (Gre thie
border of an
evergreen
bed. Price: Io to 12 inch
spread, $1.00 each, $9.00
per dozen, $60.00 per
hundred.
Dow’t delay—wirite at once.
The Bay State Nurseries
Ey MORRO Sct 5] = eas
“Picea pungens, Kosters” 678 Adams Street North Abington, Mass.
i
KIRKE SYSTEM
Destroys Insects and Fertilizes
' While Watering
Not necessary now to fill |i os
spray-pumps and work || |
pump handles while
spraying. Your garden
Now is the time to in-
sure against the Tavages
of the insect hordes. Go to your dealer and
ask him to demonstrate
the “Kirke”’ System.
Delay means regret.
Not alone does the 3
You should do this im-
faucet is your pump.
You simply attach a
“Kirke” Feeder (Cart-
ridge Holder) to your
faucet, couple the hose
to the other end of the
Feeder and spray as in
watering.
A Cartridge is placed in
the Feeder of whatever
material it is desired to
use.
The “Kirke” Feeder
is self-operating. No
mixtures to be made.
It is a combination of
spraying and fertilizing
apparatus, and so in-
expensive.
“Kirke”’ system replace
the cumbersome spray-
pumps. It does away
with the exceedingly
objectionable manure
heap, with its flies,
weed-seeds and myriads
of germs.
You can also “Fertilize
While Watering,”
thereby making it pos-
sible to nourish your
plants continuously
with this clean system.
Destroy insects that
infest stalls, kennels,
coops, etc., by use of
“Kirke” Disinfectant.
FOR THOSE WHO DO NOT TSE A MOSE:
“Kirke"’ Fertilizer also made in tablet form for Sprinkling Cans.
“Fertilize While Sprinkling.”’
Do it now and enjoy an
mediately and take ad-
abundant harvest, a
beautiful lawn, or a
luxuriant floral display.
vantage of our Special
June Offer.
Special June Offer
“Kirke” Feeder, costing
“Kirke’’ Fertilizer Cartridges
“Kirke’”’ Nicotine Insecticide Cartridge
“Kirke’” Arsenate of Lead Cartridge
“Kirke’’ Bordeaux Cartridge
“Kirke’”’ Angleworm Destroyer Cartridge
Send your order to us direct $5.00
THE KIRKE CHEMICAL CO,, Inc.
245-B Robinson St., Brooklyn, N. Y.
CANADIAN BRANCH—20 Wellington St., W., Toronto
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
186 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE ~ Vigumaees: |
TE
° GARDEN
MAGAZINE —
JUNE, 1919
\E CONTENTS “
CovER Drsicn—Porrtes - - Frank Spradling
PAGE
AVALANCHE MOCKORANGE PORTRAIT - - - = IOI
Amonc Our GARDEN NEIGHBORS - - - - ~ 192
THREE JLLUSTRATIONS
Some of Mrs. Wilder’s Notes Invite Comment—Coryda-
lis Bulbosa—Three Attractive Borders for the North
Side of House—Controlling the Oak Leaf Roller—Suc-
cess with Dahlias—Two New Soy Beans—Getting Rid —
of Slugs—Picking Sweet Peas—Catawba Early an Ideal
Sweet Corn—Verbenas as Bedders—To Lengthen
Clematis Bloom—Chokecherry for the Garden—A
Sermonette—A Tree that Grows AnywHere.
You Can’t Count On
the “Weather Man”
You know how unreliable the weather is, how irregular and
variable our rainfall. Don’t make your lawn and garden depend
upon so doubtful a factor. You can control your own “rainfall,”
have as much or as little as you like, whenever and wherever
you will, with
Cornell
Systems of Irrigation
TrisEs BLOOMING IN FALL AND WINTER = =e 295)
weet
THROUGH THE GARDEN GATE - Louise B. Wilder 196
Photograph by F. T. Eaton .
New Mocxorances With LARGE FLOWERS
John Dunbar 198
Photographs by N. R. Graves .
Way Nor Enpive? - - - - - G.W. Hood 201
Photographs by the author and N. R. Graves
Patms FOR PorcH AND HousE DECORATION
David Lumsden 202
Photographs by the author, N. R. Graves and H. Troth
The Overhead and Underground Cornell Systems (as well as the
Cornell Portable Sprinkling Apparatus) can be installed to cover Saowwanye Op—l 5 os = se 2 3 5 Se = = 2H
any area. Equipped with the patented, adjustable Rain Cloud Buds on Apple Trees Not Developed Enough—“Japan-
* ese Crosnes,” a ‘(New” Vegetable-—Lettuce Bolting to
Nozzles, these systems enable you to control instantly and con-
veniently the one factor of supreme importance to the beauty of
your lawn and the success of your garden.
Sool ioeabenae Flowers for Winter.
PEEPS INTO GARDENS - - - - - - = = = 205
Photographs by Manning Brothers and others af
Hebe Reed college feerleacthae tend va
Cornell Systems are economical of water, time and effort. Their
installation does not injure lawn or garden. Because of our
wide spread organization, we are in a position to install them
promptly, at any time and in any locality. Write for free
descriptive booklet.
STARTING GERANTUMS Now FOR BLOOM IN WINTER
Anna M. Burke 206
Photograph by N. R. Graves
MANAGING THE MipsuMMER GARDEN FOR WINTER
{208 Supply - - - - - - - - Adolph Kruhm 207
DLL in sas
3} es W. G. CORNELL COMPANY ha Usinc THE HorBeps IN THE Hor WEATHER
; . , rie es . |... £. Sheward 208
Engineers and Cope naka S48 Digg by the are
Plumbing, Heating, Lighting SERRE ME abr
5 * ONTH’S MINDER - - - - - = - = 210
45 East 17th St., New York City aaa
CHICAGO NEWARK PITTSBURGH BALTIMORE. En Goop AND Poor RED RASPBERRY VARIETIES r
Railway Exchange 86 Park Place 738 Oliver Bldg. Munsey Bldg. M. G. Kains :
WASHINGTON KANSAS CITY, MO. BOSTON CLEVELAND |
Rounp ABoUT THE Home Prot - - - - - =
923-12th St.,N. W. Commerce Trust Bldg. 334 Shawmut Ave. Leader-News Bldg.
PHILADELPHIA—Colonial Trust Bldg. NORFOLK—Nat’] Bank of Commerce Bldg.
LzonaArbD Barron, Editor
VOLUME XXIX, No. s.
Published aren 25c. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year.
Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
COPYRIGHT, I91Q, BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Cuicaco: Peoples Gas Bldg. Boston: Tremont Bldg.
Los ANGELES: Van Nuys Bldg. New York: 120 W. 32nd St.
F, N. DOUBLEDAY, President
ARTHUR W.PAGE! S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
HERBERT S. HOUSTON, RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
Vice-Presidents Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879
.
‘
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JUNE, 1919
comes fo
Green
come to
Hitchings & Co,
New York Boston
MMMM FSM
ei Fe Wii Ea)
env
tp E , < % = ‘ < : €
} ~ - \
Visit fe ! Ask for
Nursery Catalogue
The MOON Way
Nature’s backgrounds, arranged the MOON WAY, will
EVERGREENS
C screen the unlovely spots from your view—an unsightly
C wall, your neighbor's back fence, gatage, or stable. | If you would have real garden success—plant Ever-
5 MOON’S will select just the right plantings for your par- 5) greens now. ‘The range for selection in our Nurseries is
(2 ticular screen and supply you, from their nurseries, with the /4 practically unlimited—an Evergreen for every use.
finest specimens.
=k peeeatine Nate 4 RHODODENDRONS
e ave a tree, shrub an ant for eve: ace an ur- 1
zy P oe ee BOXWOOD AND BAY TREES
pose—the result of 47 years of successful nursery experience.
Some wonderfully fine topiary specimens can be seen
at our display grounds.
_ Have you overlooked anything in your earlier plant-
ings? We have Vines, Roses and other plants potted
especially for the purpose.
Rutherford New Jersey
Our catalog tells best trees and plants for screening.
Write for a copy.
The Wm. H. Moon Company, Nurserymen
«Morrisville, Pennsylvania
On the Lincoln Highway—Midway between New York and Philadelphia
a eo! )
we eri YM LN LN YD NY IY TSS TS ON)
» A
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
188 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE Junz, 1919
CF course you could not build that long-promised
greenhouse while the war was on. But happier {
times are ahead of us now, and you ought to get it
started. It takes a month or so to build a good green-
house, and if you want to get the full benefit next
winter, now is the time to begin.
Whether you want an elaborate greenhouse or a
small conservatory, we can meet your individual needs.
And our V-Bar construction assures you of the utmost
in production with the least possible care and cost of
maintenance. we
a> Why not come in and look over our plans and
photographs. Or tell us when we may call upon you.
WILLIAM:H. LUTTON COMPANY
V-Bar Greenhouses and Conservatories
312 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK
SI PIDIDIG SOO!
Suriip
fhe Coo
fe Ground!
One user says that’s what happened
to his tree after a few feeds of the
odorless liquid fertilizer
“TRO-FERT] LE
makes We won’t promise similar results for you
4 but really Nitro-Fertile contains the more im-
flowers portant plant foods in such easily assimilable
form that the results some times seem
lawns marvelous.
Then too—it is fed regularly every few
vegetables weeks throughout the growing season when
E % by old-fashioned methods the plants would
thrive 4 be starved.
Your dealer has it or should have it.
NITRO-FERTILE
aD Ste 2.
The Fertile Chemical Company
601 ELLASTONE BUILDING
CLEVELAND, O., - - U.S.A.
Trial? Of Course
Send 25c for a small 10 day
test sample.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
PETERSON’S GUARANTEED
PEONIES and IRIS
OUR SPECIALTY
A Block of Peterson’s Peonies
OUR GUARANTEE
We will replace with three every plant bloom- ~
ing untrue to description. ; :
Send for new descriptive price list soon to be issued
PETERSON NURSERY
1036 Stock Exchange Bldg, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS
Hot Water—Cold Water
and fresh clear drinking water
direct from source of supply.
HERE is no excuse for enduring the drudg-
ery, discomfort, and unsanitary condition iy
caused by the lack of running water in the Y
home. A Deming ‘‘Marvel System” is low in
cost, easy to install, needs no attention and will
supply all the water required for kitchen, laun-
dry and bathroom at an operating cost of less
than
1 cent a day
Don’t put off this most vital improvement.
Send for catalogue of hand and power driven
Deming systems to-day!
THE DEMING CO.
309 Depot St. Salem, O.
“Hand and power pumps for all uses”
j -~— @
Pere, “119 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE. 189
BARKER
poeeret X,MULCHER Ay.
e)
Hard Work
out of
Gardening
Just push this machine through your gar-
den and see the weeds go. Blades, revolv-
ing against stationary knife (like a lawn
mower), destroy the weeds and at the same
time break up the clods and crust into a
moisture-retaining mulch. “Best Weed
Killer Ever Used.” Gets close to the
plants. Guards protect leaves.
IA
Go over your garden with a BARKER after ° ° ta Y
. every rain. (Ten times as fast as a hoe.) It’s Triples Garden Yields BOS
" really a pleasure—and it'll keep your garden in Triples the yield with a third the labor. F i
: perfect growing condition. A boy can use this Why it does, and how it ales it, are best told in our
: machine. Has shovels for deeper cultivation, eps Sera eee peo wee ee i | ff
} making three garden tools in one. Send for the Booklet cy ey
a
FREE pocklet O The Skinner Irrigation Co.
and Factory -to- User ffer 219 Water Street Dayton, Ohio
Write for our free book of information about : = |
gardening. Fully illustrated. Shows the Barker |
- at work, tells what users think of it. Si NNER e
BARKER MFG. CO. JIYSTEM E So ee ae
Dept. 11 David City, Neb. OF IRSIGATION
il AAT
ACNE awaETE_E_oc CCA TT
A Permanent Asset on Any Property!
ail-tren F FR CIN G Mainiink
i)
Permanent beauty and durability in Enterprise
Fences are the result of 34 years’ specialized ex-
perience in building good fences.
Erect that long-desired fence now. Our stocks are
now ample, prices are again moderate, and by
ordering now, your fence will be erected
Prelicle and in time to protect summer lawns and
stein ifires gardens.
Homes
Estetcs Write to-day for our free catalog, picturing and
Ghusckes describing all our many styles and designs of
Hospitals fences and gates. Sent gladly, without obligation.
Cemeteries
THE ROOM OF GREATEST COMFORT
HERE is no investment so small that will yield as great a degree of
s comfort, health, convenience and beauty as the screened porch. .Out
= of door living—a sun porch by day—a sleeping porch by night—
= protected against disease carrying flies and mosquitoes.
X E When screening specify PEARL Wire Cloth. Insist upon the genuine which has two
=
Colleges
Aoi Fence Builders for 34 Years
actories
Public Bldgs. | ENTERPRISE IRON WORKS
and enhances 2481 Yandes St.
copper wires in the selvage, and you will get the most satisfactory screen material on the
market. Longest lasting, therefore costs less—requires no painting and no repairs, and
is the most handsome and sanitary.
Write our nearest office for samples and
descriptive matter. Address Dept.‘G’’
THE a Se & BENNETT MANUFACTURING COMPANY
New York Georgetown, Conn. Chicago Kansas City
G & B Pearlis madein two weights —regularand extra heavy, The besthardware dealerin your city sells‘‘Pearl.”*
000000000000
their value
INDIANAPOLIS
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pam TT
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
190 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE Sonn, 1919
BIG SHORTAGE OF BULBS EX-
PECTED! ORDER YOUR
SUPPLY AT ONCE.
DVICES from big growers in Holland
indicate great scarcity of bulbs this com-
ing season and enough cannot be grown to
meet the demand. To insure getting your
supply send us your order at once. Until
July 1st not later our present low prices for
the choicest varieties of bulbs grown by spe-
cialists in Holland will hold good.
By ordering from us now instead of wait-
ing until fall, you make a large saving, get a
superior quality of bulbs not usually to be
obtained at any price in this country, and
; have a much larger list of varieties to select
Hyacinth La %, v Ph ae ie : / : : f : from.
225 per “ ' ; Our orders are selected and packed in Hol-
land, and are shipped to our customers im-
mediately upon their arrival in the best
possible condition.
A FEW PRICES
Per 100 Per 500
Fine Mixed Hyacinths $6.0 $27.00
Fine Mixed Single Tulips
Fine Mixed Darwin Tulips 2.75
Candidum Lilies $1.50 (doz.)..... Me 50
Double Daffodils 4.00
ay — Narcissus Emperor Monsters
j fr ‘ Narcissus Emperor Large
; Capdidury per eo ma” Narcissus Empress Monsters
’ a Narcissus Empress Large
Narcissus Golden Spur Large..
Write To- day for ae Catalogue of Dutch Bulbs ye De varieties ee for ane
quantities are shown in this catalogue.
T is the most comprehensive bulb catalogue pub- Read What These People Say 2
Hshed-—containing “page| after page of imported Finest he ever saw! “I have received my order of ORDER NOW—PAY WHEN
bulbs—the very flowers you want. gladiolus, and they are the finest I ever saw. The tulips DELIVERED
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, Crocus, give, for a h ‘all have grown splendidly.”
small outlay of time and money, an abundance of es Pa eae tiast 5 P To take advantage of the very low prices offered
flowers in the house from December until Easter, 7 1 « how mag- in this catalogue, we must have your order not
and in the garden from earliest spring until the pificent any datrodile town! TTS Rane ire later than July 1st, as we import bulbs to order
aniddle of May. town, and have given us untold pleasure. Each daffodil only. They need not be paid for until after de-
DIRECT FROM SPECIALISTS is the size of a tea cup. Many bulbs have four flowers livery, nor taken if not of a satisfactory quality.
Our connections abroad make it possible for us to and not one has failed to produce two.’”—G. LOSES 2
buy bulbs from the best specialist of ee ueriehy Vion ale Seance? Caen sae Write For Catalogue Today
Every bulb shown in the catalogue you get direct from urpasses tulip beds in ci parks. ave a bed o f
growers who have made a life study of ine flowers tulips fron bulbs purchased pom yen. a ee ae ELLIOTT NURSERY Co.
they grow; thus you are assured bulbs of the first thing I have seen in the city parks.”—F, A. D., Cordell,
eni le 322 FOURTH AVE. PITTSBURG PA.
nnn
PEONIES
LOOMING conditions being favorable we shall exhibit at Detroit, at the
American Peony Society’s annual exhibition, a choice collection of blooms
of the newer and rarer varieties. These blossoms will be cut from plants
growing in our own gardens where we believe we have more of the later and
rarer introductions than can be found in any single planting in the entire world.
A visit to our grounds will amply bear out this statement.
Ss ANAT
IN
Hl
i
Both Mr. George C. Thurlow and Mr. Winthrop H. Thurlow will be in
attendance throughout the exhibit in order to meet old friends and Peony lovers.
Come, bring your flowers, and join with us in making this exhibit the
greatest and grandest of all.
CAAA
i
T. C. THURLOW’S SONS, Inc. West Newbury, Mass.
alll
HNO
VoLtumE XXIX NuMBER 5 h SC f a ig d |
JUNE. 1919 n
Magazine
OCKORANGES _ breathe
the very atmosphere of the
old-fashioned garden. Pop-
ular because of their abso-
lute reliability, and remark-
able because of their dependability for
bloom in the merry month of June; so
much at home in our gardens and old-
time hedge rows as to have run wild here
and there and become almost a part
of the country side! An added inter-
est in these shrubs is the fact that
the family is in part a good American
one. .
The fragrance strongly reminiscent
of orange blossoms, and the profusion of
the glistening white flowers in the early
heated days of summer, all help to secure
for the Mockoranges a high place in
popular esteem. True, there are some
without the fragrance; and the absence
seems to excite wonder—always so closely
associated in the popular mind is this
flower and its fragrance.
Of ancient esteem as a garden plant, the
name (as given by botanists) carries the
mind back to the days of the ancient kings
of Egypt, for it is given in honor of
Ptolemy Philadelphus who reigned two
hundred and fifty years before the Chris-
tian era. It is a pretty association that
gives this old garden favorite the old
name of Philadelphus.
In the old-time gardens Mockorange
was also known as Syringa, which how-
ever belongs properly to the Lilacs. The
famous old herbalist, Gerarde (to whom
we always go as the court of last resort in
hunting up the early histories of popular
old-fashioned plants) calls Philadelphus
coronarius, “white pipe,’ and the Lilac
was the “blue pipe,” and so the name
Syringa got applied to both plants though
widely different.
The wizardry of the horticulturist has
in recent years done much in blending
extreme characters of different Mock-
oranges and giving us wonderful showy
novelties with greatly improved flowers
of much beauty that are slowly but
surely winning their way to favor.
More about these will be found on
pages 198 to 250.
Avalanche is representative of the modern type of Mockorange. Could any garden want a more effective flowering shrub for June?
AMONG OUR GARDE
The Flowers We Love
HAT have been called the “‘special so-
cieties,”’ that is to say, organizations de-
voted to studying and popularizing one
particular plant or group of plants, small
though they may be individually, are focus points
of great activities—the American Rose Society,
for instance, which has just issued its “Annual for
1919,” the fourth of the series. It contains 160
pages chock-a-block with the very latest informa-
tion about Roses and their cultivation from an
American viewpoint. It is not saying a word too
much when we challenge the production of a
better Rose manual than the one now before us;
and we take off our hat to Mr. J. Horace McFar-
land for his excellent work as Editor.
Among the leading articles is a memorial to
the late Admiral Aaron Ward entitled the “ Pass-
ing of a Great Rosarian.” Mr. Bissett tells of
F. F. Meyer’s contributions in “New Roses from
China.” There are short reviews of the Rose cult
in other lands, and the list of “Roses Introduced
in America” is corrected to March roth of the
current year. The Chairman of the Federal
Horticultural Board explains the machinery of
getting new Roses into the country as it will be
from this time “forever” (?) This volume, which
is handsomely bound in linen, is included in the
$2 membership of the society.
The American Peony Society is also rendering
yeoman services in its own sphere and has just
issued another number of its bulletin, which con-
tains some brief biographies of those who have
been most famous in raising new Peonies in
America. This publication, however, is not so
far reaching as the Rose Society’s Annual—
its appeal is not as wide. The Peony Society
is doing equally valuable work, however, and has
succeeded in establishing a general appreciation
in its own particular field.
There is so much of internal interest concerning
any one particular plant that its devotees are
rendering a real service by codperating to spread
authoritative information concerning their par-
ticular fancy. In this way also the American
Gladiolus Society, the American Sweet Pea So-
ciety, and the American Dahlia Society are rend-
ering valuable services; and as time goes on we
shall undoubtedly see associations for fostering
other garden favorites. Indeed, the establish-
ment of an Iris Society has already been bruited.
It is certain that of all the plants that go to make
the American garden there is no one to-day that
is more appealing, that has greater diversity of
interest, and a wider range than the Iris; and of
recent years, tco, some splendid creative work has
been done by American raisers. It would in-
deed be a pity if their efforts were not encour-
aged and developed. The enthusiasm of the Iris
connoisseurs is evidenced in the discussion aroused
over Winter and Fall blooming forms in last issue,
and continued this month.
AS A matter of fact the dominating influence
4% in progressive horticulture must always be
the amateur. The wonderful work accomplished
during the last few years by the various garden
clubs ali over the country is a demonstration of
this fact and also a protest against the lack of
vision of certain influences within the trade.
More power to the progressive amateur in whose
hands the future of American horticulture is held!
Will the nurserymen who support Quarantine
Jo. 37 as a glorious event in the annals of Amer-
ican horticulture, whoever they are, forthwith
start out to supply the needs of gardens with a fine
election from the multitude of native plants of
sterling merit, that at this day, unfortunately,
can hardly be found in any catalogue?
Weareinarut. We all get into ruts and have
x
to be hauled out. Will our Western friends make
it possible for us to use in quantities in our home
gardens the plants that are now being asked for
in the present time interest in rockeries and Al-
pine gardens? It is somewhat galling to take a
selection of catalogues of American and European
dealers and find that if we want to plant an Amer-
ican landscape in all its variety and make a purely
American garden we must go to Europe for the
material. An inquiry from a correspondent for
seeds of certain plants revealed the really appall-
ing condition of affairs that not one of the twenty
plants asked for was offered, so far as we could
ascertain, by a single seedsman in this country;
yet we could find in any one of at least a score of
European catalogues a great majority of all the
seeds sought.
“No demand,” says the dealer. ‘‘Have you
ever tried to satisfy it?” ask we. It is time the
American plant dealer got out of his rut.
Midsummer Madness
[SNT it queer, to say the least, that, popularly
speaking all active garden work comes to a
standstill about this time of year when in
fact the garden on the whole is at its best?
The old tradition of ““making garden” once for
all in the spring and so have done with it still
persists. Yet a balanced garden needs some
attention at all seasons. Strange as it may seem
midsummer has big opportunities for effective
work. On the material side there is the winter
supply of vegetables to be thought of, as is dis-
cussed elsewhere in this issue. On the aesthetic
side there is a chance for making improvements
in the flower garden. Seeds of biennials and
perennials are sown with advantage this month
and active planting can be continued on a large
scale with care. [hen there is the keen joy of
building for the future.
The actual ordering or buying, and the setting
out of a tree or a shrub or a group of them, makes
up only a mere detail of the real job of planting.
They represent the mechanical, physical work,
the relatively ‘“‘unskilled labor” phase, so to
speak. Any one can make out an order for nur-
sery stock in fifteen minutes, write a check to pay
for it in one fifth the time, and plant each specimen
ordered, probably, in from five minutes to
half an hour.
The big, serious part of planting is, after all,
the selection of the material, the choosing of the
stock to meet particular needs, to ft into any
particular situation. It is this part of the prob-
lem to which you can and ought to devote days
and even weeks; the part that calls for taste,
knowledge, foresight, observation, study—even
real genius. Io succeed in it, you must study
and come to know plant materials, both in cata-
logues and in their outdoor environs as they
grow. You should visit other plantings that are
acknowledged to be good, or, if this is impossible,
become familiar with successful gardens by proxy
—by carefully studying pictures of them; ‘‘ Peeps
into Other Peoples’ Gardens” in THE GarpEeN
MacazineE, for instance; you should compare
the effects of different styles of planting; and
above all, you should take note day after day of
conditions in your own garden so as to ascertain
just what is needed, and where, and when its
effect is required. For all this constructive study
and planning and replanning, there is but one
long season—extending from one end of the year
to the other. Now, and during midsummer,
when the blossoms on bush and plant and vine
follow one another in quick succession, when trees
are in their richest leafage; later in the season
when the riot of floral color is past and the au-
tumn colorings are beginning to flame in their
place; still later, when the hour of the evergreens
192
and the trees and shrubs of multi-colored barks
is at hand; and again, when the first brave blos-
one of spring burst their way out of frost-sealed
uds.
To apply this line of thought along purely
practical lines, keep your catalogues and order
blanks handy and make up your list for ultimate
planting day by day and week by week, jotting
down not only the items you want right away,
but also those you are going to need, as fast as
you discover that they wz// be needed to fill a gap,
round out an effect, complete a border, etc.
You need not call for extra early delivery, you
need not even send the order in until nearly
planting time (although it is best to be fore-
handed), but you certainly should keep revising,
improving, modifying and developing the list
until it represents the essence of best judgment
as to actual needs as built up while the contrib-
uting thoughts were uppermost in your mind.
So can you make your whole year a planting sea-
son and avoid many of the costly, discouraging,
time-devouring mistakes that follow last minute
ordering, snap judgments, and long distance
consideration of garden problems.
HERE individual, unlimited attention can
be given, most plants can be safely moved
and planted at practically any time. Winter
moving of trees with frozen root balls is one of
the most practicable and safest of modern meth-
ods. As for summer planting, we have known of
flowering shrubs to be lifted, moved several miles,
and replanted while in full bloom, without
scarcely drooping or losing, prematurely, a lower
head. The secret of this is, ‘of course, keeping
the roots of the plant comfortably moist at all
times—before moving, while being dug, while in
transit, and after being set in a new location,
until fully established there. In the case of
extensive plantings this degree of care is often
impracticable; but where the garden lover can,
and desires to, move one plant or a few at a time,
and can lavish care upon them, even the mechan-
ics of planting can be made a part of the garden-
ing operations of practically every month in the
year.
ple” Experiences }
ey ~
eas ge.
———— ——<———i—
Some of Mrs. Wilder’s Notes in recent issues
are provocative of comment. (1) With me
Corydalis glauca is a favorite, and _ self-sown
seedlings in rich, open soil have formed two-and-
a-half foot bushy plants; it is particularly lovely
when its grayed green is in association with the
light yellow-green of Stylophorum (Celandines)
which is of equally easy culture. (2) The yel-
lowed green of Forsythia or the deeper, brighter
tones of Cornus var. flaviramea might be added
to the list of bright stems and I like the warm
brown of Spiraeas van Houttei and Thunbergu,
or the bright crimson and green of certain of the
Roses; but the list could be made too all-inclusive,
and to me the greatest of winter charm lies in the
revelation of the growth character of the many
varieties of shrubs. A note in The Garden
(England) of Nov. 10, 1917, deals exclusively with
the winter effect of the many Rose species.
(3) Let me add also to ‘‘ Not for Little Gardens”
Coronilla varia, a plant of vetchlike growth with
delicate pink and white clover-like blossoms and
smooth gray-green mounds of foliage but entirely
too deeply running roots for safety and con-
venience; Physostegia virginica and the weedy
JUNE, 1919
Pentstemons I exile, the charming Anemone
pennsylvanica needs a place of its own or makes
a bed its own, and Stylophorum, Heliopsis,
Hesperis, Viola cucullata and wild Asters need
almost too frequent weeding out.—R. A. S.
One of the earliest
of the spring flowers,
Corydalis bulbosa,
coming with the
Crocus and Snowdrop.
Flowers dull violet on
ruddy stems and gray
green leaves. Seeds
freely
Bulbosa.—T his
perennial has been one of the most satisfactory
of the early blooming things that I have hap-
Corydalis small tuberous
pened upon. It forms small tufts of glaucous
foliage, which push up as soon as there is the least
encouragement for growing. This means that
the plants are in full bloom at the same time as
Crocus and Snowdrops. The flowers are of a
dull violet pink which harmonizes well with the
ruddy stems and gray green foliage. It must be
planted where it will not be disturbed later in the
summer, for it loses all foliage very early in the
season and is easily forgotten. In semi-wild
plantings on the edge of woods where its disap-
pearance would make little difference it is very
charming and I have seen it used in a rockery de-
signed for spring effects where it was most de-
lightful. It seeds freely and appears to spread
somewhat from the tubers.—B. Y. Morrison.
Three Attractive Borders for the North Side
of House.—Every season several people ask us
the secret of our success in growing pink English
Daisies on the north side of the house. There
is a foot wide border of them around the base of
a Clematis covered stump, and they attract
considerable attention because they bloom so
early and so freely, though they get the sun only
in the early morning and the late afternoon.
Have just been out to investigate and find the
Daisy plants just beginning to show themselves
above ground, but over night the border will
be all abloom. The explanation of this wonder-
ful phenomenon is that we have a patch of Dais-
ies growing in a more favored spot that are al-
ready in blossom which will change places with
those around the stump. We lift the clumps
with a ball of earth clinging to the roots and
even the blooming plants don’t seem to know
they have been moved. But one such trans-
planting a season has been found necessary.
We have them growing in several different sit-
uations in the back yard, but there is one spot
(sheltered on the north and west where they get
the sun until noon) where they thrive best of all,
and are always several weeks ahead of the rest.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
We have alternated the plants in this way for
several years and it works like magic. If it
were not for this scheme the plants around the
stump would die out in a couple of seasons—we
know because this had almost happened when
we saved them by the experiment just men-
tioned. They bloom continuously and freely
almost all summer and, though they don’t
amount to much as a cut flower, they are beauti-
ful in the border.
a row of Spiraea Van Houttei planted at the base
of the house, facing the north. In front of these
shrubs and just edging the lawn is a border of
wild flowers that we transplanted from the woods
several years ago. These are in bloom the
earliest of all without the ruse of transplanting
each year as in the case of the Daisies. Passers-
by sometimes cross the lawn to get a nearer view,
and we have many times been amused at the
look of astonishment at finding them only the com-
mon Hepatica or May-flowers as we commonly
call them. Their tints—white, two shades of
blue, and two of pink harmonize well. After
the blossoms are gone the leaves alone are pretty
the rest of the summer. A border plant for the
northern situation that is in its prime a little
later in the season is one of the variegated Day
Lilies (Funkia). This has a blossom about
Hepatica blue in color but its chief value lies
in its beautiful variegated leaves (striped green
and white, very much like those of Aspidistra),
which hold their beauty till frost. As a foliage
plant for the border it has no equal.—Mary
Rutner, Traverse City, Mich.
Controlling the Oak Leaf Roller—Nothing is
accomplished by spraying Oak trees for the oak
leaf roller after this pest gets busy in the spring.
This insect, which is known to entomologists as
archips argyrospila, has been creating much
alarm in parts of New England for the past two
or three years. It is not a new pest, however,
for it has been reported at different times in
several states, including Colorado, New Mexico,
Oregon, and New York. After a few years’ visita-
tion it usually disappears, but in the meantime
it does a great amount of damage feeding upon
the leaves.
subjection by spraying with arsenate of lead, but
this roller cannot be reached in that way because
it spins a fine web over the leaves, this web being
so resistant to the spray that the larva is able
to keep on eating in perfect security. In the
Newtons and nearby towns last year, every leaf
on some of the trees was covered with this web.
The forest commissioner of Newton, William
W. Colton, has made a careful study of the oak
leaf roller, and reports that the eggs begin to
hatch about the middle of May, the larva then
feeding from 18 to 28 days, after which it changes
to the pupa state. In 10 days more the moth
appears, laying its eggs on the trees. The egg
masses are coated with a heavy varnish, which
gives perfect protection from the weather during
the winter. If, however, the trees are sprayed
with miscible oil while dormant, a large percent-
age of the eggs will be destroyed. Mr. Colton
recommends one gallon of oil to 15 gallons ot
water. Spraying with a nicotine preparation as
the leaves begin to unfold will kill many of the
larvae. Another spraying three weeks later will
end the careers of many more insects. The later
spraying with arsenate of lead, though, which is
commonly indulged in, has been found absolutely
ineffective, although, of course, the lead is needed
for gypsy moths in sections where that pest
abounds. The early nicotine spraying often
drives to the ground many of the larvae not killed,
and if a band of tanglefoot is applied to the
trunks of the trees, they will not be able to ascend
again. Care must be taken, though, to clean
the pests from the tanglefoot every day or two,
for otherwise they will spin webs over it and cross
in great numbers.—E£. J. Farrington.
On the other side of the lot is ©
Most pests of this kind are kept in’
193
Success with Dahlias.—In the May issue Mr.
J. W. Chamberlin, New York, writes of poor
results with his Dahlias due to the bug. I have
had great success with my Dahlias and my secret
may interest others. When my Dahlias are
three inches above ground I spray them every
third day with an auto-spray having an elbow
connection to permit spraying from the bottom
up. Make a solution of arsenate of lead, and
begin spraying at regular intervals when the
plants get above ground. Other good growers
have given out this secret and it is well worth
trying. In this way the insects are poisoned on
their first appearance and get no chance to mul.
tiply. Our trouble was the white fly —WMrs.
E. B. Goldstein, White Plains, N. Y.
Two New Soy Beans.—Through the courtesy
of the Bureau of Plant Industry, I have recently
had opportunity to experiment with two newly
introduced varieties of soy bean. Hahto is the
name of a large green flat bean, which is fully
as big as a sieva or small lima when soaked with
water. It is recommended for use in the same
manner as green lima beans. It is planted as
soon as the soil and weather are settled and warm,
in rows thirty inches apart, and one foot apart
in the row. The plants are stout and erect,
producing large amounts of seed and forage.
‘The seeds are ready to be shelled out and cooked
in about 115 days from germination, and mature
fully in about 135 days. The dry beans con-
tain about 15 per cent. oil and 40 per cent. pro-
tein. This variety was brought from Japan.
I am trying it for the first time. The second
variety is aptly named Easy Cook. For it
cooks easily even after lying two or three years
in storage. I recently cooked some soaked
beans of this variety in 50 minutes on the top
of the stove, in hard water without soda. Since
the one complaint against soy beans for human
food has been that they require a pressure cooker
for adequate preparation, it is most important
to have this variety. We now have, therefore,
a vegetable food richer in fat and protein than
any other food whatsoever, delicious in taste and
texture, easier to cook than the navy bean, and
more productive and therefore cheaper than the
navy bean. This variety also requires about
135 days to mature, and will be cultivated at
present only in the southern half of our country.
It is so new that the Bureau has no seed for dis-
tribution. “They are using their entire stock for
propagation. We wish them success with this,
which is without doubt the greatest food intro-
duction for many years.—ITenry S. Conard,
Grinnell, Towa.
Getting Rid of Slugs—I can help Mr. Com-
stock; at least in my experience the first thing
that helped me at all was Sterlingworth Cutworm
food. This is a grayish white powdered stuff.
I sprinkle it around my garden at four in the
afternoon, and gather up hundreds of dead slugs
the next morning. But I really think that one
of the best ways to fight slugs is to hunt for, and
destroy them in October and November. At this
time they are ready to lay their eggs, and every
slug destroyed then means twenty or thirty less
in the spring. I have a big flower border, and
many trees on the place, and up to two years
ago I always let some leaves lie on this border
for protection. Now I rake up every leaf and
gather in every slug, in five pound lard pails!
Sometimes I get half a pail full in a day, or rather
I did. Twice I have tried this, and there is a
great decrease in the number of slugs. Also
when sowing seeds of annuals, or perennials,
or setting young plants, lettuce, etc., I always
sprinkle the cutworm food around. Two years
ago I could not raise a single Delphinium and
even my big plants were killed —Amelia Mcl.
Meyer, New Hampshire.
194
Picking Sweet Peas.—No doubt others have’
acquired the same “trick” in picking Sweet Peas’
that I have, but for the benefit of those who have
not, I wish to pass it along. First, I will state
my objections to both the cutting and plucking
method of gathering these flowers. In cutting
Sweet Pea blooms the lateral buds at the base of
the stems are left to grow. They quickly exhaust
the energy of the plant, retard top growth, and
result in flowers with miserably short stems.
Plucking, while it usually removes the offending
lateral when it is yet in the embryo state, is apt
to “skin” the tender surface of the vine, or worse
still, break it off at the roots. Hold the main
vine with the left hand. With the thumb and
finger of the right ‘hand grasp the flower stem
and lateral bud together, as near the base of the
stem as possible, and using the fingers as a pivot,
bend them quickly and sharply first to one side
and then the other. This gives a clean break-
away. I might further describe it as a sort of
rubbing out of the stem and lateral bud from
their socket. This way of picking Sweet Peas
does not damage the vines, and the lateral buds
are removed exactly when they should be. The
“trick” can be acquired with few trials, more
especially in the morning when the vines are full
of sap. They grow much taller under this
treatment, require less fertilizing, and yield
uniformly long-stemmed flower sprays over an
extended season.—Claudia B. Walters, Ohio. ‘
Catawba Early an Ideal Sweet Corn.—In
rereading the spring garden magazines for
1919, I noticed several writers praising the
Golden Bantam for Early Sweet Corn. I won-
der how many of those who value this corn so
highly have ever grown Catawba. We like
this the best of any corn that we have ever
grown or eaten, and though we have but a small
home garden, we try to plant each year some
Catawba corn for early, late, and mid-season use.
The plants are of the small dwarf growth, and
produce quite freely—the ears are medium size,
but the cob is so small, and the kernels so large
and meaty that one géts more corn from the
smaller cob than from some larger. The hull
of the kernel is very tender, so that the corn can
still be eaten when so old that some varieties
would be tough. We prefer its flavor to that
of Golden Bantam; it is extra sweet and extra
tender. The kernel when ready to eat is white,
deepening to pale pink as it grows older, until,
when ripe it is a deep purplish shade.—Mrs.
Ruth G. Plowhead, Caldwell, Idaho.
Verbenas as Bedders.—Here is a picture show-
ing Verbenas as a bedding plant used out on the
open prairies. The plants presented a joyous
mass of bloom all summer, doing every bit as well
as Geraniums did in seasons past. Let it be
noted that the plants were exposed to the full
glare of the sun all through the long summer days
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
and there was nothing to protect them from the
winds and the wind on the prairies blows wildly
at times. The border used is Dusty Miller.
Though the. planter achieved little of art in his
effort to duplicate what he saw elsewhere, he did
inadvertently demonstrate the value of the
Verbena as a plant for sun and wind.—C. L.
Meller, N. D.
To Lengthen Clematis Bloom.—Iwo good
Clematis to plant together are the wild species
and the cultivated paniculata. The wild sort
blossoms first, and just as it is through the other
begins. They both bear clusters of small white
blossoms—those of paniculata being fragrant,
the other not. Another advantage of planting
them together is that the foliage of the wild kind
is apt to present a rusty appearance toward
the end of the season, while that of the other is
evergreen and helps hide the unattractiveness
of the former. We were at first bothered by
seedlings of the wild Clematis springing up in
unexpected places over the yard. To avoid
this we gather the seeds and burn them, but as
the fuzzy seed clusters have a beauty of their own,
we leave them on the vine till nearly ripe.—
Mary Rutner, Traverse City, Michigan.
Chokecherry for the Garden.—Our common
Chokecherry or Prunus virginiana, due to its
suckering roots tends to develop into a shrubbery
clump of its own, though with a little attention
it can be grown either as a large shrub or small
tree. It is not to be recommended for general
planting, particularly not where a more cultured
specimen of shrub or small tree can take its place,
but to tidy up the ragged ends of a place it is
sometimes about the only thing that will grow
satisfactorily and persist. Its roots will push
their way through almost any kind of a soil and
once established the plant is drought resistant.
Left alone a Chokecherry will sooner or later
occupy all the ground available. Growing at
its own sweet will a few of the innermost shoots
develop into small trees while the outermost
shoots grow as short canes that carry the foliage
of such a clump down to the ground. If one
has a mind to do it a Chokecherry can be grown
as a well balanced lawn tree while the persistent
suckers that keep springing up all about the base
of the tree can be easily held down with the lawn
mower. They do not injure the lawn. During
its blossoming time, a period of about two weeks,
a Chokecherry clump is really pretty and the
fragrance is all pervading. When the fruit is
tipe there is a feast for the birds, robins appear
to be especially fond of it. This is a point in
its favor not to be forgotten. As a means of
screening an objectionable view, especially on
poor soil that cannot be given much preparation
and where subsequent care is out of the question,
Prunus virginiana is to be recommended.—
C. L. Meller, N. D.
One solution of flower bedding in a place on the prairies fully exposed to sunshine with no protection from wind, Verbena with
Dusty Miller as an edging
JUNE, 1919
A flowering climbet is always a relief to a brick wall. By
combining the early flowering native with the late blooming
Japanese Clematis a double season of bloom is achieved
‘A Sermonette.—Flower growers have some-
times been criticised, and during the war, often
censured by self-alleged practical persons, for
wasting valuable material space and labor on a
mere hobby. It is useless to argue with such
people. I prefer to preach a little sermon, taking
for my text Genesis 2:8-9: ‘‘And the Lord God
planted a garden eastward in Eden; and there he
put the man whom he had formed. And out
of the ground made the Lord God to grow every
tree that is pleasant to the sight, and good for
food.”” My dear Garden Neighbors, note care-
fully that “every tree that is pleasant to the
sight” has prior mention, while those “good for
food” are accorded second position in the scrip-
tural record. ‘Every tree that is pleasant to the
sight”’ means flowers, which in Eden took prece-
dence over food producing plants. Let us be
reasonable and concede that, after the loss of
Eden, these positions were reversed, and food
production necessarily became of primary im-
portance demanding strong Adam’s close applica-
tion. But happy industrious Eve digged and
planted too. She labored and the responsive
earth rewarded her with a little paradise all her
own. A flower here, and a bush there, beautiful
fragments of Eden for God provided the seed.
God makes the flowers and what He makes is
good. Flower gardening is Eden-making. Let
us preach and practise the gospel of Every Home
ap Eden.— Ms. R. W. Walters, Ohio.
7
>
- two years.”
JuNnNE, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
A Tree that Grows Anywhere.—There is some
growing thing for every trouble of the planter
and if he will only look around a little he will find
it. The Golden-barked Willow comes in handy
in quite a number of troubles. It will thrive
in wet and heavy clay and apparently quite as
well on a dry hillside. Here are several instances
of what this Willow actually will endure: To
provide a screen, | had occasion to plant a cow
of the Golden-barked Weeping Willow through
a low place that was subject to standing water
for several weeks every spring when the snow
went off. Added to this the manhole just back
of the Willow row overflowed about once a
month with the cleanings from filter beds. Then
after the trees had been growing there for a num-
ber of years, more than a foot of heavy clay was
filled in about them. In spite of all, they have been
growing there thriftily for six years now. Two
years ago, in the fall, I dug out and transplanted
several clumps from this row. The winter follow-
ing was very cold, bare of snow and of course
extremely dry. As might be expected, since the
Willows were never watered, the transplanted
clumps killed down to the ground, but the roots
retained their full vitality and the canes already
195
growing promise to be as effective in a few
years as those that were not transplanted. A
few of these willows I tried on a hillside where
the ground was built up of old cedar paving
blocks covered with manure over which a coating
of clay perhaps two feet deep was spread. ‘The
trees took hold, and in spite of two dry years
they are growing nicely. This spring I shall
endeavor to achieve the verdure that | so very
much want on this hillside and that seems so
hard to get, by planting this Golden-barked
Weeping Willow all along the bank.—C. L.
Meller, Fargo, N. D.
Irises Blooming In Fall and Winter
Everblooming Iris——I note with interest an
account of two everblooming Iris in Los Angeles,
Calif. Having been a gardener there for some
years, I shall take the liberty of expressing my
opinion. Thetwo Iris, white and purple, are the
common, types of the German Iris grown in
many old gardens about Los Angeles. This is
the name under which I grew them and under
which they are catalogued. As to their ever-
blooming habits I can testify, if they are cared
for. I remember once at a meeting of the
Horticultural Society at Los Angeles that Mr.
D. Barnhart called attention to their long
Popping period —/J. H. Johnson, Washington,
DAC:
Iris Bucharica—In I. bucharica, belonging
to the bulbous group Juno, we have a desirable
and easily cared for addition to our spring bloom-
ing bulbs. A clump in my garden has flourished,
increasing each season with satisfactory rapidity
and vigor. It is a native of Bokhara at an al-
titude of 5,000 to 6,000 feet and was introduced
from there to the gardening world about 1900.
The plant is twelve to fifteen inches high, its
handsome maize-like foliage clasping the stalk,
and it produces in April, from the axils of these
leaves, fragrant white blossoms with clear yellow
tips to the falls. A well established clump is
full of interest and beauty both in foliage and
flower. Mr. R. Dykes says: “I. bucharica
is well worthy a place in any April border of
bulbs. If well treated it increases rapidly, so
rapidly that the bulbs should be separated every
Its position in my garden is a warm
and sunny one well enriched and affording a
congenial spot for the ripening of its foliage,
which it does after the manner of other spring
bulbs. With some of the increase I shall this year
try a heavier spot in the hope of obtaining ‘“‘a
huge bush two feet high” as reported from Scot-
land. Sir Michael Foster in ‘‘Bulbous Irises”
recommends a rather heavy soil or stiff clay.—
Ella Porter McKinney, New Jersey.
Forcing Iris.—An easily procured winter de-
light for Iris lovers and for others is found in
forcing the earlier forms of the bearded Iris.
They require no placing in the dark, no paper
cones to draw them up and the foliage remains
fresh and decorative long after the flowers are
gone—these three points alone recommending
them to amateurs. However, the distinction as
a house decoration of a basket of Iris at any time
and especially in February, can not be ap-
proached by any other flower in the estimation
of this Iris lover. No description can do justice
to a nine by twelve basket of Iris lutescens, vari-
ety Statellae, which gave pleasure for two weeks
this winter beginning Pebiware 17th. It sent
-its best.
up eighteen flower stalks from eight inches to
eighteen inches high and some of them .two
flowered. More than once there were as many
as six and seven creamy white blossoms among
and overtopping the lovely foliage. “Why,
those are as lovely as Orchids” was the comment
of one city visitor at the time the basket was at
My personal opinion is that it was far
lovelier. In the corners were snuggled the lav-
ender and velvet violet of Lord Beaconsfield
Pansies. December 26th, clumps at least three
years from division were dug and disposed in
flats and pans without breaking the clumps apart.
Underneath and around good potting soil, in
which was a liberal mixture of fine bone meal and
wood ashes, was pushed and packed; the old
foliage was carefully cut away and everything
given 2 good watering. They were then placed
in a funny little cold frame greenhouse, in and
out of which the enthusiastic owner crawls
through a cellar window! This is heated by
pipes from the little stove which heats the water
for bath and kitchen and we have not found that
we have to use more coal on its account. The
lants began growth at once and February 3d
browate the first bloom on a pan of purple
umila. A seven-inch clump gave fourteen
blossaes distributed over a period of three weeks,
the foliage growing more and more attractive.
February 17th brought Iris lutescens, variety
Statellae as described, and the week of February
24th brought the fragrant bloom of a yellow
pumila. ‘This variety bloomed with such ‘“‘team
work” that it was over within a week, but very
lovely while it lasted. Kochi, the dark claret
variety, came next in mid March and April
5th; from one of its nine stalks, Common Blue
Flag opened its first flower. This last was lifted,
a frozen clump, February 15th and brought to
flower entirely by the aid of a sunny window in
the sewing room. An essential to success is
that the clumps be at least three years from divi-
sion and that they be broken up as little as possi-
ble before blooming. They will stand consider-
able crowding and can be placed in flats in this
way, being cared for until the buds show color,
when they may be broken up and disposed in
such receptacles as one’s taste dictates. If well
watered, they stand this treatment very well.
While in bud and flower an occasional watering
in which sulphate of ammonia is dissolved, at
the rate of one third tablespoon to one gallon of
water, is helpful. The rhizomes are not at all
hurt by forcing and at the spring planting time
can be broken up and planted out again. By
keeping a small reserve nursery of one’s favorite
sorts a succession of bloom could easily be main-
tained from clumps made right for forcing by
being left in the nursery the required three years.
I have no experience to record with the taller
and later blooming sorts like pallida dalmatica,
but think, for the amateur, the lower growing
and earlier flowering forms are more satisfactory.
Last autumn being an exceptional one, the
clumps were taken up late. To obviate trouble
with frozen ground the clumps should be taken
up before freezing weather and stored in a cold-
frame or a light cellar without heat, from which
they could be easily secured as desired. With
a little experience a successian of bloom could
be maintained. 1 the varieties noted were
a success, unqualified, and very lovely in their
decorative quality, but the queen was Iris
lutescens.—Ella Porter McKinney, Madison, N.J.
I. Albicans and Crimson King.—We notice in
the current number of THE GarpEN MacazinE
“Tris Notes from California,” by Mrs. Wilder.
No doubt the Irises referred to by her California
correspondent, are Albicans and Crimson King.
Both of these Irises are quite widely distributed
throughout California and are very free bloomers,
particularly Crimson King. This variety is
very close in color to Kochi and the bearded
Nepalensis, but of a slightly different hue, redder
than Kochii and not quite as bright as Nepalensis,
and from our experience it multiplies more
rapidly. Nearly all of the so called “German”
group will bloom more than once a year in our
climate provided conditions are favorable.
They will make a second crop of bloom in the
spring although not so heavy as the first crop,
and again in the fall. Several, others of the
bearded Irises bloom in the fall or winter, pro-
vided there is sufficient rainfall and the nights
are not too cold. These conditions vary of
course in different locations, even within a few
miles. Quite a number of the variegatas bloom
in the fall or winter to a limited extent: Nibelun-
gen and Iris King, for instance, sometimes throw-
ing up quite a few flowering stems when there is
but little foliage. We have never seen the tall
pallidas, such as Albert Victor, pallida dal-
matica and others of like character, throw a
bloom out of season. Rhein Nixe will bloom
in the fall, but none of the plicatas so far as
our observation goes except Fairy, and that under
favorable conditions will make quite a crop of
bloom in the winter. It may be there is some
Albicans in the parentage. Archeveque seems
to be a free bloomer also. Most of the dwarf
varieties bloom two or three times during the
year as do some of the Intermediates. The
large bearded I. mesopotamica blooms in March
and unguicularis or stylosa blooms continu-
ously from fall until spring. Other species also
bloom during the winter. So far as we can
learn from correspondence with Iris growers
in the East, Albicans and Crimson King do not
there behave differently from any of the
other varieties—Mrs. J. Dean, The Dean Iris
Gardens, Moneta, Calif.
oR
The morn is merry June, I trow,
The rose is budding fain.
—Sir Walter Scott.
Old Time “Pot-Pourri,’”’ for Fragrance
Once upon a time any one who grew many
Roses gathered and dried the petals and com-
bined them with other fragrant flowers and leaves
and spices to make the aromatic mixture known
as Sweet Jar or Pot-Pourri. I very well remem-
ber the blue and white jars of this odorous smix-
ture that stood about in various rooms of my old
home and recall with pleasure the faint sugges-
tion of Roses and spices that always hung about
them. My mother and her friends were wont
to exchange recipes for the making of Pot-
Pourri, as we to-day for canning peas and to-
matoes, and there was always much pleasant
discussion at neighborhood gatherings during
rose-time as to the merits of various methods and
mixtures.
We are to-day such busy folk, and have be-
come so dependent upon the shops to supply all
our needs, that many pleasant old-fashioned
tasks .are no longer performed. Many, it is
true, would have small significance in our modern
life, but the home-manufacture of Pot-Pourri is
one that ‘well deserves to survive. It is in all
ways a charming operation, and our modern
apartments would gain appreciably in charm
through the presence of this old-fashioned fra-
grance.
In the old days Damask and Province Roses
were deemed the best to use in the manufacture
of Pot-Pourri, for these were the most highly
perfumed to be had and they were to be found in
every garden. Now-a-days these sweet old
favorites are little grown, but on the other hand
we have countless varieties of Teas and Hybrid
Teas that will do as well. I wish I had the recipe
that my mother used, but this, though I still have
the list of Roses that grew in her Maryland gar-
den, has been lost. It doubtless differed little,
however, from several that I have collected from
other sources. The following rule is taken from
Donald M’Donald’s “Sweet-Scented Flowers and
Fragrant Leaves” and is reputed to hold its
sweetness for fifty years.
Gather early in the day, when perfectly dry of dew, a peck of
Roses, pick off the petals and strew over them three quarters of a
pound of common salt. Let them remain two or three days, and if
fresh flowers are added more salt should be sprinkled over them.
Mix with the Roses half a pound of bay salt, the same quantity of
allspice, cloves and brown sugar, a quarter of a pound of gum
benzoin and two ounces of powdered orris-root. Add one gill of
brandy and any sort of fragrant flowers or leaves (Lavender, Thyme,
Bergamot, Citronella, Lemon Verbena, Mignonette, Clove, Pinks,
Marjoram). They must all be perfectly dry when used. The
mixture must be kept in a closed jar and occasionally stirred. It
should be opened only when it is desired to refresh the rooms. If
after a time the mixture seems too dry more brandy may be added.
Of course, Eau de Cologne or lavender water
may be used in the place of brandy.
When is a Plant Biennial?
Two at least of the so-called biennials
known to me always require two full seasons to
arrive at flowering strength, blooming the third
year from seed. ‘These are the Greek Mullein and
the Chimney Bellflower (Verbascum olympicum
and Campanula pyramidalis), and it is small
wonder that this should be so when one takes into
account the greatness and splendor of their
flower stalks. Some plants that are in truth
ROUGH_ THE
a By
perennial are so short lived that they are best
treated as biennials. In my garden Lupines and
Columbines come under this head; and one of the
finest of the Bellflowers, Campanula lactiflora,
that I have never seen designated as a biennial,
is quite consistently so with me. Anchusas too,
both the common Alkanet and the newer A.
myosotidiflora never flower but the one season
with me, though the latter self-sows so freely
that its preservation is taken out of my hands.
This is the case with many flowers of this class,
but the seedlings may not always be relied upon
to bloom the second year; they will, however, the
third, and these seedlings are usually fine, sturdy
little plants most valuable for filling in about the
garden. If some special strain of Foxglove or
Sweet William is to be preserved, it will be neces-
sary to procure fresh seed yearly as most of these
plants cross easily and so deteriorate.
Hollyhocks have always been treated as bien-
nials in my garden because, in this way, we are
able to avoid the horrid disease to which they are
prone, but which seldom attacks young plants.
In saving seed from the Hollyhocks we have
always been careful to gather that from per-
fectly healthy plants only, but to-day I came
across the following rather astounding suggestion
in the “Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture:” “A
Germ'an cultivator avers that one should save
seeds from diseased Hollyhock plants instead of
healthy ones, and declares that he has raised 1,500
such seedlings that proved immune.” This has
something the sound of propaganda, but it might
be interesting to try. If a choice strain of double
Hollyhock is to be continued, offsets must be
detached from the parent plant and the leaves
kept covered with ammoniacal copper sulphate
or bordeaux, to kill the disease germs. The first
named is the least disfiguring.
Many of the most beautiful and useful plants
at our disposal are biennials. The following list
is not exhaustive but includes the best of those
that we are likely to meet with. Save in the case
of the free self-sowers it will be necessary to raise
these plants from seed every year in order to keep
up a stock. The self-sowers are marked*.
Forget-me-not Alkanet
Italian Alkanet
Milky Bellflower
Canterbury Bells
Chimney Bellflower
Clary
Alpine Wallflower
*Anchusa myosotidiflora
Anchusa italica
Campanula lactiflora
Campanula Medium
Campanula pyramidalis
Salvia sclarea
Salvia turkestanica
*Cheiranthus Allionii
oi ww nt
Cheiranthus Cheiri Wallflower
*Dianthus barbatus Sweet William
*Digitalis purpurea Foxglove
*Echinops sphaerocephalus Silver Thistle
Silver Thistle
Horned Poppy
French Honeysuckle
Sweet Rocket
Honesty
Mullein Pink
*Eryngium giganteum
*Glaucium luteum
Hedysarum coronarium
*Hesperis matronalis
*Lunaria biennis
*Lychnis Coronaria
Michauxia campanuloides
Meconopsis integrifolia
*Oenothera biennis
Oenothera taraxifolia
Luiit tite ttn
Thibetan Poppy
Evening Primrose
Evening Primrose
Hoi tn weal
Onopordon arabicum Giant Thistle
*Papaver nudicaule Iceland Poppy
*Papaver alpinum Alpine Poppy
Saxifraga Cymbalaria
Symphyandra Hofmanni
*Verbascum phlomoides ) :
*Verbascum olympicum = Mullein
*Verbascum pannosum
Verbascum Chaixii
*Viola cornuta
*Viola tricolor
Horned Pansy
Pansy
i
Does Cutting Back Injure Larkspur?
The practice of cutting back the stalks of
Delphiniums after the first flowering in order to
secure a second, much later, display, is pretty
generally indulged in. Of late, however, [
have several times seen it stated from authorita-
tive sources that this practice is extremely in-
196
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De Author of My Garden’ and Colter inky Garden"
GARDEN GATE.
B Wilder
jurious to the plants: that under this treatment
they become greatly weakened, are shorter-lived
and considerably more prone to disease. Ishould
say that my own experience rather bears out this _
theory, though it may be some quite other cause
that produces casualties frequently among my
Delphiniums. It is true, however, that plants
that have come up in out of the way places
through self-sowing and the stalks left standing— _
through neglect—until they are fully ripe, live
for years and are entirely free from any hint of
disease.
Of course the fading Delphinium stalks are far
from ornamental in the garden and we like to get
rid of them; moreover the late second flowering:
is a boon not readily to be foregone, but if the
practice of cutting back is really injurious, few
would care to risk their rare and expensive varie-
ties for ‘these reasons. Will not readers of
THe Garpen MacazinE write to the Garden
Neighbors department and let us know what their
experience would cause them to judge to be the
truth in this matter?
June Sowing for Biennials
So often I read or hear the advice given to
sow the seeds of biennial plants in August, but I
cannot believe the givers of this advice have ever
tried it out, not, at least, in the climate of the
middle and northern states. It has been re-
peatedly. my experience that Foxgloves, Canter-
bury Bells and other plants of their class will not
flower the following season when sown thus late.
They do not develop sufficient strength to
bloom in so short a period, and this, I believe, is
the reason why we so frequently hear of the failure
of biennials to flower, particularly of Canterbury
Bells. To secure sturdy plants sure to bloom
next year, seed should be sown not later than
June and the young plants moved to their per-
manent quarters late in August or early in Sep-
tember so that they may become well settled
before cold weather.
As with most rules there are exceptions to this
one. Those biennials that we treat principally
as bedders—Forget-me-nots, Wallflowers, Eng-
lish Daisies, Pansies, and the forms of Viola
cornuta require, for the best results, to be sown.
in August. These plants are in such haste to
accomplish their mission, that if sown in the
spring will flower profusely in the autumn, thus
impairing the display the following spring.
Flag-stone Paths, and Plants for Them
Mr. Gott’s article on Garden Paths last
month was full of interest and helpful advice.
The designs for brick paths were charming, and
certainly nothing lends so quaint an atmosphere
to a garden as a brick path unless it be one of old
flag-stones. But I think it is too bad to grow -
grass in the joints between the stones whenone ~
may do something so much more delightful.
In the first place grass in such a position is very
difficult to take care of, and unless it is cared for
it looks very untidy and unsightly, growing long
in uneven wisps that gives the path a moth- —
eaten, neglected appearance. It is not usually 7
possible to cut over it withthe lawn mowersothat
shearing, if done at all, must be performed by
hand—a slow and tedious operation. On the
other hand there are many small neat-habited
plants that will establish themselves in the joints, |
outlining them with pleasant ‘greenery, and
spreading out over the stones no more than 1s
attractive. Of course the plants for this purpose
must be carefully chosen, for not all merely dwarf
ones are suitable. The best planting of the kind
that I have seen was in an English herb garden
JUNE, 1919
and was done entirely with the Woolly-leaved
Thyme (Thymus Serpyllum lanuginosus). This
is a close-creeping little plant with tiny roundish
leaves, soft gray in color and downy. Its color
and texture gave a most pleasing effect between
the old flag-stones and where it had spread out
over them in irregular patches. When one
walked along the ‘path one was followed by the
most delicious fragrance.
All the varieties of Thymus Serpyllum would
be delightful for this purpose. They are all close-
creeping and neat. The pretty “gold” and “‘sil-
ver varieties are very attractive as are the soft-
hued magenta and crimson sorts. Few plants
have a better perfume than the Lemon-scented
Thyme (Thymus Serpyllum citriodorus), and
the dainty white-flowered Thyme is a real treas-
ure. In my own herb garden the Thymes have
spilled out of the narrow beds and even between
the closely set bricks have found a foothold, and
though they are frequently walked upon they
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
197
seem in no wise injured. Along the edges of a
flag-stone path planted with creeping Thymes
some of the more bushy species like the common
English Thyme might be planted.
Another sturdy close-creeping plant is the
Maiden Pink (Dianthus deltoides). ‘This little
plant makes mats of roots almost like turf and
no amount of walking upon will discourage it.
The type has bright pink blossoms smaller than
a ten-cent piece, and there is a white variety.
The two are pretty planted together. The
leaves are small and shining. It is easily raised
from seed so that enough plants to fill a path may
be obtained at very small expense.
For a damp, somewhat shady path the tiny
Corsican Mint (Mentha Requienii) would do
very well. It clings closer than moss and its
infinitesimal leaves give forth a strong mint-
like fragrance when bruised. Other plants that
may be used for this purpose are Mazus rugosus
(syn. repens), Arenaria balearica and A. caespi-
tosa—the former is best in shady places—Linaria
_hepaticaefolia, Cerastium arvense, Draba azoides,
Antennaria tomentosa, Stachys corsica, several
dwarf 'Campanulas like pusilla and garganica
and the close growing Sedums like S. acre and S.
album. Indeed, the paved path provides an
opportunity for a very charming type of garden-
ing and one that requires little care once the small
plants are established. Along the edges, out of
the way of pedestrians, many other dwarf plants
could be grown such as Aubrietias, Alyssums,
Campanulas, Thrifts, Saxifrages, and Silenes.
Of course judgment must be used not to get the
plants in so thickly as to interfere with the use of
the path as a thoroughfare, for unlike the Thymes
these more tender things will not stand being
walked upon. When setting out the plants very
small ones should be used as these are much more
easily established in the narrow quarters. Be-
neath the stones there should be an inch or so of
good sandy loam.
Using the nooks and crannies in garden steps for suitable plants helps the garden poe surprisingly and a greater variety of plants is available than for a flat flagstone path. The only requisite is
that the plants do not grow tall. The photograph made in the garden of Mr. Russell
stone steps into a serviceable and very attractive kind of rock garden
obb, Concord, Massachusetts, shows a variety of flowering plants used which convert the otherwise repellant
New Mockoranges With Large Flowers jonny punsar
An Account of Some of the Remarkable Recent Improvements in These Highly Esteemed Flowering Shrubs. Another Debt that
America Owes to the Work of Lemoine
[Eprror’s Note: Mr. Dunbar is Assistant Superintendent of Parks at Rochester, New York, where, under his direction has been gathered together
a remarkable collection of newer important trees and shrubs worthy of general cultivation.
a thorough acquaintance with trees and shrabs.]
HE Philadelphuses, or Mockoranges, are
commonly known under the erroneous
name of Syringa, which however is
the proper generic name of the Lilacs.
They are very hardy, easily grown and one or
two are among the best known garden shrubs.
Modern introductions, however, offer us greatly
improved flowers of large size and diverse forms.
The chief value of the Mockoranges lies in
their showy white blossoms, which in many
species, forms, and hybrids are strongly fragrant,
and they flower mostly in June to the first of
July. There is no particularly ornamental value
in the branching habits of the plants when not
in bloom. The different species and forms that
have been commonly sold in nurseries for many
years are excellent shrubs for border plantations,
as they grow rapidly, and form an important
screen in a short time. Philadelphuses are not
particular about soil conditions—any well-
drained soil, heavy or light, suits them. They
should be pruned on the same principles as
Deutzias, i. ¢. cut out the old flowering sprays and
old wood any time during the dormant season.
Like Deutzias and the Lilacs the Philadel-
phuses have been much improved by the Le-
moines (of Nancy, France), through hybridizing.
The first important cross to attract attention
was between Philadelphus coronarius, an old
inhabitant of gardens—probably the best known
of all—a native of the Caucasus, and P. micro-
phyllus a small leaved shrub, a native of the
Rocky Mountain region. This form was named
Lemoinei and has been growing in our parks for
twenty-six years. A large a nBee of hybrid pro-
geny followed this break, and many of them are
indeed lovely garden plants. Several showy
hybrid forms, the parentage of which is extremely
doubtful, have appeared during recent years.
The Lemoines, as far as I am aware, have not
stated the parentage of a number of these. It
seems that some species other than P. coronarius
and P. microphyllus must have been employed,
as the foliage characters in some of these new
hybrids do not agree with either of the species.
In addition to these hybrids the two following
species are excellent garden plants:
Philadelphus purpurascens, a new _ species
from Western China introduced by E. H. Wilson.
Our plants have been raised from seeds received
from Dr. C. S. Sargent about eight or nine years
‘since, and they are now about six feet in height.
The branches are spreading and somewhat arch-
ing, and from them are produced numerous
branchlets about four inches long, which bear
terminal racemes of five or six pure white, fra-
grant, almost bell-shaped blossoms. In _ this
feature it is distinct from most Philadelphuses
as the flowers are generally flat or flattish. The
calyx surrounding the blossoms is dark purplish
red. It blossoms about June 21st. This is
worthy of a place in all gardens.
Philadelphus microphyllus, which has been
mentioned previously as a hybrid parent, is a
native of the Rocky Mountains. It has been
in cultivation for a good many years, but is
still rare in gardens. With us, after seventeen
years, it does not exceed four to four and one
half feet in height. It forms a dense bush with
the slender branches partly spreading but mostly
upright. The young branches have a decidedly
deep brownish red color in winter. The light
green colored leaves, are very small, and hardly
ever exceed three fourths of an inch long, and a
quarter of aninch wide. The profuse small white
fragrant blossoms are borne on fragile branch-
lets. It is usually in bloom about June 25th.
This is certainly a neat and most desirable garden
shrub.
Some of the Choice Hybrids
LBATRE has slender branches, and judg-
ing by present appearances will not grow
more than four to five feet tallin time. The pure
white double flowers sometimes inclined to be
semi-double are borne in large panicled clusters,
and are produced in great profusion. It flowers
about June 29th.
AVALANCHE is a most graceful shrub attaining
a height of five to six feet with whip-like slender
branches and mostly erect. It has smallish
lanceolate leaves, and the parentage of Philadel-
phus microphyllus can readily be detected. It
has numerous small clusters of handsome single
fragrant flowers about June 26th. A most
beautiful garden plant. (See illustration p. 191)
Dame BLANCHE Is a neat, compact low growing
form with erect branches and smallish leaves.
It has semi-double very fragrant flowers, the
petals somewhat fimbriated. After a good many
years’ growth it does not attain over three to four
feet tall. It flowers about June 29th.
ManTEAU D’ HERMINE does not grow more than
two to two and one half feet in ten or twelve years.
The branches have a spreading habit. It has
small leaves and shows the parentage strongly,
in the foliage, of P. microphyllus. It bears
double to semi-double pure white flowers in
great profusion from all the stems. It blossoms
about June 13th. This is such a neat small shrub
that it should appeal strongly to many people.
Mont Buranc is a free branching form with
slender ascending stems and attains a height of
five feet. It bears most profusely a wealth of
pure white fragrant blossoms and flowers about
June 13th. This is an excellent garden shrub.
Pavitton Branc, which signifies “white tent”
or “white bell,” is a beautiful form. It grows
about five feet high and produces clusters of
pure white single flowers in great abundance
spaced well apart. It blossoms about June 20
to 25th, and is a little later than some other
hybrids of the same parentage.
VircINAL is perhaps what a Frenchman would
call ‘‘la piéce de resistance” amongst all Mock-
oranges. It certainly is a cynosure when in full
bloom. It has attained a height of seven feet
with us, and the stems are stout and vigorous.
The white: fragrant flowers are borne in ric
luxurious clusters, and so profusely that the
branches bend under their weight of -bloom.
The flowers are described as double in the original
description, but the flowers on our plants are
mostly semi-double and occasional blossoms are
inclined to be almost single. It was in full
bloom here on June 29th in 1916.
Vore Lacrée is a showy distinct form. The
French meaning of the name is “Milky Way.”
It grows five to six feet tall with erect stems.
The branches are thickly covered with racemes
of four to five clustered blossoms, pure white,
two inches across. The petals are distinctly
rounded and very fragrant. It blooms about
June 21st. This is said to be a hybrid between
Philadelphus nepalensis and P. microphyllus.
It does not show, however, any of the parentage
of Philadelphus microphyllus.
Insicnis was the first known hybrid amongst
Philadelphuses. It was raised in France possibly
in the sixties of the last century by Monsieur
A. Billard. It is a large growing plant and has
198
Mr. Dunbar’s selections are based on long experience and
showy single flowers. It is important because
it is one of the latest to bloom.
in 1915 on July 12th.
ARGENTINE is a most singular form and dis-
tinct from all other hybrids. It has erect
branches, and has the appearance of being a
medium sized shrub. The large double white
blossoms which are about two inches in diameter
are produced in immense clusters suggesting
snowballs. It would seem to recommend itself
to the florists for cut flower purposes. It is in
full bloom about June 29th.
BANNIERE sends up long stout branches on
which are borne numerous clusters of three to
four large pure white semi-double flowers, which
are two and two fifths inches across. This is a
remarkably showy form and blossoms about
June 2oth.
GLaciER is a form that will appeal to many
people. It has erect stout stems and it appears
as if it might remain a medium sized bush. The
flowers are double, and are in dense clusters on
thickly set panicles. The flowers are so thickly
packed together that they present a snowball
effect. It is in.full bloom about July 12th.
RosacE is a singularly handsome flowering
form. It sends up slender flexible stems six to
seven feet tall, on which are borne numerous
clusters of pure white fragrant flowers, two and
four fifths inches across, suggesting somewhat
the appearance of a rose. It was in full flower
with us on June 29th in 1916. This is a hybrid
with much artistic beauty when in bloom.
A Group With Reddish Color, But Tender
A FEW years ago an interesting group of
small-sized hybrid Philadelphuses which
showed purplish red, or rosy red, in greater or
less degrees toward the lower parts of the petals
was introduced by the Lemoines. The b
ning of this group of hybrids was obtained
through crossing Philade]phus Coulteri, a Mexican
species having a purplish-red spot at the base of
the flower, with Philadelphus microphyllus al-
ready described. P. Coulteri does not grow
naturally north of Mexico, and probably would
not stand our winters.
The first hybrid thus obtained was named
Fantasie and showed a pale rose tinge at the
base of the petals. This was followed by a much
more beautiful form (the result of crossing
Fantasie with Coulteri) named P. PURPUREO-
mMacuLatus. The lower parts of the petals
showed prominent rosy red markings and it.
made a distinct impression in some nursery
circles in this country when it first appeared.
I remember how enthusiastic the late John
Charlton,’ in his day a well known Rochester
nurseryman and a great lover of plants, was
in describing this new plant to me some time
before I saw it. We now have in our collection
P. PURPUREO-MACULATUS, ETOILE.ROsE, SIRENE,
Romeo, and Sypitte. These forms show vary-
ing degrees of pinkish red, rosy red, and purplish
red in greater or less extent toward the base of
the blossoms, which are borne in one to three
at the ends of fragile branchlets, but they are
frequently solitary. The branches in the differ-
ent hybrids are slender and none of them at the
present time exceed two and one half feet in
height. There is no doubt that these forms are a
little tender, and require to be planted in sheltered
a
conditions. They are doing nicely with us, and we —
regard them as very dainty choice garden plants.
They flower usually about the first week in July.
It was in flower
egin-
~
ia Dart ne) oma,
os ata
OLD AND NEW
MOCKORANGES
(Left) The old-fashioned kind known for
its fragrance and along time favorite in
many old time gardens (Philadelphus
coronarius)
(Below) The new ‘‘Vir-
ginal’’ which grows seven
feet high with branches heav-
ily laden with semi-double
flowers larger than the old-
fashioned kind. It is prob-
ably the most strikingly.
distinct of all the numerous
new family
“Mont Blanc” is shown here as cut sprays. The
shrub is free branching and makes slender ascending
stems five feet inlength. Flowers pure white and
fragrant. One of the smaller flowered novelties
“‘Manteau d’ Hermine” a veritable dwarf among the Mockoranges, growing less than three feet in a dozen years, appeals
strongly for a place in the narrow border. The spreading habit of the branch is curious
“Perle Blanc” has flowers of unusual form-suggesting miniature Roses “Candelabra’”” has gracefully frilled petals on its singie profuse
of Sharon flowers
THREE PORTRAITS THAT ILLUSTRATE THE DISTINCTIVENESS OF THE NEW MOCKORANGES
200
Why Not Endive? «. w. soon,
Lincoln,
Nebraska
A “Luxury” Vegetable That Even the Most Modest Can Have With Ease. The Ideal Salad for Winter from Summer Sowing
HE call for
salad plants
usually ex-
ceeds the
supply during the
late fall and early
winter, yet the
craving for green
plants at this sea-
son is becoming
more marked as
their place as ap-
petizers becomes
recognized. Now
lettuce is the one
commonly ac-
cepted vegetable
for this purpose,
but there is still
another _plant—
endive—which is grown tu only a small extent
and is known only to a few people, that will
teally serve the purpose better at that season.
I was surprised last fall when it not only became
a task but an impossible accomplishment, to dis-
pose of a small greenhouse full of this delicious
plant just because it was not known! The gro-
cers could not be induced to handle it because
they said it was impossible to sell it. Yet endive
is no novelty and is highly esteemed in places
where it is known. No large estate is without it,
and really anybody can have it who wills.
Endive is not only easy to grow, but thrives
well almost everywhere on a great variety of soils.
It is a rapid grower, and develops a compact
plant with handsome, finely cut foliage and
crinkly leaves, which are an ornament in them-
selves. The plant fills a most important place
in the fall, and although it can be grown in the
spring, its greatest value lies in its being a good
fall salad plant from summer sown seed. Not
only is endive an excellent salad plant but it
makes delightful greens or pot herbs when cooked
and served the same as spinach, to which, in
fact, I prefer it in the fall. When used as a pot
herb endive furnishes desirable mineral elements,
which can be supplied at much less cost through
it than is possible through spinach. Endive is
so easily grown that every garden should be sup-
Blanching is quite simple: just tie up
the green ieaves for a week;
plied with it, and it keeps well enough so that it
can be served until Christmas time, with a little
care in storing. Why, now, is it so little known
outside of the larger gardens of the country?
Why has it not yet come to its own?
Sow the seed from the middle of July to the
first of August. It can be handled in one of
two ways, either by sowing in drills or by plant-
ing inaseed bed. When the seed is drilled in, the
plants are thinned out to stand about 12 to 14
inches apart in the rows, while the rows are usu-
ally 15 to 18 inches apart. If the seed bed
method is used, the seedlings are set out the same
distance as above, when the first true leaf appears.
Watering the seedlings, as soon as the transplant-
ing 1s done, aids materially in establishing them.
The usual cultural methods should be prac-
tised regularly, 1.e., cultivation and weeding when
occasion demands it, watering of course if the
season is dry. Liberal and frequent stirring of
the soil supplemented with some irrigation will
produce wonderfully fine plants in a short
time.
BLANCHING is the important step in endive
growing and is probably the phase of culture
that is not well understood and one of the reasons
why the crop is not popular. Yet it is indeed a
simple matter. Unless blanched, endive is
strong and bitter, and when eaten in this con-
dition is not very palatable; when blanched, it
is a beautiful product of creamy white, crinkly
leaves, not only palatable but appetizing in
appearance. Of course it should be here stated
that as compared to lettuce endive has always a
bitter pungent tang.
Any method which will exclude the light will
bleach the leaves, but some ways are either not
practical, or cause the plant to rot. The two
mostcommon methods of blanching are (1) todraw
the leaves together and tie them with a soft cord;
or (2) to pull the leaves together and cover
the plant with a heavy sack. A paper band tied
around the plant will also serve. “The blanching
should be done when the plant has reached a
suitable size, after it is full grown, and only a few
plants should be tied up at one time because as
soon as the plant is blanched, it begins to break
down. A sufficient
number for family
use should be tied
up each week, to
give a constant |,
supply. When it,
freezing weather j
arrives, the plants
can be taken up
and stored in a
box of sand or
soil in a_ cool
cellar, and can be
used until late in
the season.
eee ae
Se be a,
at
F YOU have
never used en-
dive, try one of the
following methods
of preparation:
To make endive
salad, select two
well grown plants that have been blanched until
the centre is a creamy white. Remove all of
the outer leaves and select only the centre which
is blanched. Cut the endive into small pieces,
slice a medium sized onion with the endive, and
dice a fair sized boiled potato into the two.
Thoroughly mix the salad with salt and a
little sugar, and add sufficient vinegar to almost
cover the salad. Serve cold.
To serve as greens, select the blanched centres
of the plant, cut into pieces and add one or two
slices of bacon which has been cut into small
pieces. Boil until done, add salt, pepper and
vinegar enough to give it the desired flavor.
Serve hot, the same as spinach.
—Or fit an ordinary paper bag over
the plant, first gathering up the leaves
ieee different kinds of endive as grown for
salad are merely garden variations of one
species of chicory, the difference being chiefly in
the form of the leaf. The so called French en-
dive or Witloof chicory is quite different, being
indeed the product of the same species that gives
the chicory of commerce that 1s used to adulterate
coffee and which gives us the pretty blue roadside
flower in midsummer.
There are two types of endive shown here. The broad leaved is usually not blanched so much as the curled which is considered the better and almost exclusively grown for falluse. Endive is really
easier to grow than lettuce in its season. It has a crisp texture and a less or more bitter flavor according as it is blanched cr not
201
Palms for Porch and House Decoration bavi tumspen
The Author Has Had Exceptional Opportunity to Become Acquainted with Plants for Decorative Uses. Before Becoming Pro-
fessor in the Department of Floriculture at Cornell He Had Practical Experience in the Best Known Nurseries and Private
Gardens of England and in this Country, and so Brings to His Present Work the Strongest of Backgrounds
This Article is the First of a Series on Plants for the Dwelling House BM ces,
HE graceful custom of growing plants in
and about the dwelling house 1s indeed
a custom well worthy of emulation. What
can be more beautiful or more attractive
for house ornament than a plant distinguished
by its beauty of form? Such plants, however,
should not be thought of or scrutinized from
their aesthetic qualities alone, for, apart from
their beauty as ornaments, they have another
and a more important mission, that of introduc-
ing to us the study of plant life. Oftentimes
our rooms are apt to be overcrowded with bric-a-
brac—representations of natural objects—but in
the case of plants, we may, without inconven-
ience, enjoy the natural objects themselves.
Plants employed for this purpose are in many
cases poorly selected and ill-adapted to with-
stand for any length of time the dry and dusty
air of the living room. Yet by making a careful
selection it is easy to keep them in health for
months, even years, under the average dwelling-
house conditions.
For the present article the Palms are selected
as being the foliage plants of most grandeur for
the purpose. Other subjects including flowering
plants are to be considered later. The Palm
family embraces upward of one hundred genera
with approximately twelve hundred species
indigenous to the tropics, and in particular to the
regions of the Pacific Islands. Some plants are
native to America and Asia. A few, also, are
met with in Africa.
Palms are decidedly tropical and graceful in
appearance and lend themselves admirably to
practically all kinds of decorations. From an
economic standpoint their fruits, stems and
leaves enter into the manufactured products of
Europe, Asia, and America.
"THERE are many reasons why Palms should
be more generally used for home adorn-
ment. A few are: They are easy of culture,
Living plants certainly ‘‘enliven’”’ the homme. Because they prefer filtered light to direct sun the various Palms (and other thick-
leaved plants) fit so well in porch and piazza decoration
reasonably free from obnoxious
insect pests, and are decidedly
decorative and graceful in ap-
pearance. They may be used
for hall or room adornment.
During the summer they may
be used for the veranda or the
porch. As plants to use in a
shady position in the dwelling-
house, they will adapt them-
selves where. flowering plants
could not be recommended.
HE soil mixture that best
suits Palms consists of turfy
loam (sod taken from the meadow
and composted), leaf soil, and
sand, in proportion to two thirds
loam and one third of leaf soil
with sufficient sand added to
keep the compost “‘open.”’ Palms
thrive best in comparatively
small pots. Give a liberal sup-
ply of water to the roots in sum-
mer, and during the winter
months never allow the soil to
become dry. April and May are
the best months for repotting.
ALMS are subject to scale
insects, thrips, and red spi-
der, all of which insects however
may be readily eradicated by
spongirtg over the foliage with a
solution of whale-oil soap. The
solution is made by dissolving
one-half pound of soap in five
gallons of water. Allow the so-
lution to remain on the leaves for
about one hour when the plants
may be sprayed or sponged over
with clear water. If whale-oil
202
We ibegy a
Do you know of a better, more practical porch screen plant than the Needle
Palms? The Fan Needle-palm is surprisingly hardy even withstanding a touch of
frost, although that is not recommended
soap is not available, a simple solution of ordinary
laundry so apone pound, water five gallons, may
be used. The potash soap is the best. It should
contain not more than thirty per cent. of water.
If the plants are free from insect pests an
occasional sponging or spraying over the leaves
with water will benefit them. The spraying re-
moves particles of dust from the foliage’ and
keeps open the stomata or breathing pores in
the leaves. The plants may also be placed out-
side during summer showers. ‘This will assist
in removing the dust from the foliage. But
observe: Palms must not be allowed to remain
outside in the full sunshine, as the foliage will
then be injured.
The Selected Best
ALTHOUGH the family is so numerous
yet only a comparative few are really
reliable for house conditions. These are here
enumerated.
PHoentx—Theophrastus gave this name to
the Date Palm perhaps thinking of Phoenicia
where the Greeks were supposed to have first
seen it. All the Phoenix are pinnate leaved:
The Date Palm is Phoenix dactylifera. The inhabitants of
Arabia and upper Egypt use the fruit extensively as an article of
diet. The hard stones are ground up and used as food for their
camels, and from the leaves they manufacture bags and baskets.
The midribs are frequently used as fences for their gardens, while
the trunk of the plant is made use of in constructing small buildings.
The threads of the integuments between the leaves are made into
ropes. A juice is sometimes extracted from the tree by incisions
and manufactured into a palatable wine. This species of Phoenix
is now rarely used as a house plant, it having been superseded by
the more slender and graceful P. canariensis.
Canary Island Date Palm (Phoenix canariensis), is one of the
hardiest and most useful of the genus, resembling P. dactylifera, but
Junz, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 203
The name of the Fan-leaf Palm (Latania or Livistona borbonica) is well known wherever green In the florists’ stores the Curly Palm, Kentia Belmoreana, holds sway as the most popular plant
house and indoor plants are grown. It is the most common of all the large Palm family of its type for graceful furnishing of home interiors
For House and Porch Decoration
Palms are most useful. They endure
shade and are “clean,” no shedding
of leaves or parts of flowers, etc.
Most graceful, fragile looking, fyet luxurious in effect—the comparatively recent Phoenix Well named the Low Dwarf-bush Palm, Chamaerops humilis. It has a sturdy massive appear-
Roebelinii, is by far the best of the Date Palms, and slow growing ance that is very decorative, especially for conservatory use
204
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
more slender and graceful.
porch adornment.
The Rock Phoenix (Phoenix rupicola) is one of the most beautiful
and useful of the group. The flaccid leaflets, being bright green in
color, are decidedly decorative. On account of its gracefulness and
bushy habit, it is especially useful for pot culture in the home or
conservatory.
Roebelin’s Phoenix (P. Roebelinii), one of the later additions to
the group, is perhaps the most graceful of the genus, having long,
graceful, dark green leaves. It is much dwarfer than any of the
previously-mentioned species. As a house plant, it is without a
peer.
Makes a splendid specimen for hall or
Howea or Kentia. Named for Lord Howe’s
Island where the two species’ grow. These are
erect, spineless Palms, known to horticulture
as Kentias.
Curly Palm (Howea, or Kentia, Belmoreana) is the most popular
Palm for house culture and can be readily distinguished from its
brothers by its gracefully arching leaves.
Thatch-leaf Palm (Kentia Forsteriana) is an extremely useful
plant, used in very large quantities by the florist trade. The
leaves are more erect than in the preceding species and it is also a
more rapid grower. This plant is very popular and is often seen
as large, made-up specimens usually three plants being placed in the
centre of a flower pot or tub. The two species of this genus con-
stitute by far the best-known Palms of the American trade. The
leaves of Kentia Forsteriana are used in large quantities by the
natives on Lord Howe’s Island for thatching the roofs of their huts,
hence the name.
Livistona. The genus Livistona was named
in honor of Patrick Murray, of Livistone, near
Edinburgh, Scotland. These Palms are partic-
ularly decorative as conservatory plants, the
commonest representative being the Chinese
Fan-Palm.
Chinese Fan-Palm (Livistona chinensis) is known to the trade,
improperly, as Latania borbonica. It has a stout trunk and many
broad fan-shaped leaves. It was formerly used very extensively as
a house plant, but of late years has been almost replaced by the
Howeas and species of Phoenix. Livistona chinensis requires a
large amount of space for its full development, and is therefore
better adapted for conservatories than for dwelling-house adornment.
Round leaf Fan-Palm (Livistona rotundifolia) is highly decorative
as a conservatory plant, and, during its infancy, is very desirable
for table decoration as well as for inside window boxes or Wardian
cases.
CurysALipocarPus is Greek for golden fruit
and gives the name to one of the commonest of
our house Palms usually known as Areca.
Chrysalidocarpus lutescens is a spineless stoloniferous plant and
a general favorite for pot culture. It is a very bushy Palm, suckering
freely when quite young. Its golden stems and graceful, arched pin-
nate leaves make it desirable for home or conservatory decoration.
Its one great requirement is plenty of water.
Cocos, is derived from the Portuguese word
coco, head; the end of the nut resembling a
monkey’s head. This genus includes the cocoa-
nut tree and a few interesting and attractive
Palms used for conservatory decoration; also
a few species grown in Florida and Southern
California as avenue trees.
Coco Palm (Cocos nucifera) produces the cocoanuts of commerce.
It is rarely used as a house or conservatory plant, but may be seen
in botanic gardens in the larger Palm houses. A variety known as
aurea is cultivated in England. It has orange-yellow sheaths,
petioles and midribs which make it decidedly attractive.
Feathery Coco (Cocos plumosa) is a species widely used in South
Florida and California for street planting. hen grown in from
5 to 12 inch pots or tubs it makes a desirable plant for the home or
conservatory.
Weddell’s Coco (Cocos Weddelliana) is of all the species cultivated
for ornament by far the most important. It is easy to grow and
Buds on Apple Trees
Not Developed
Enough
Reports continue to in-
“SPEAKING?
Junz. 1919
lends itself admirably as a centre piece for a fern dish, also if a num-
ber of the seedlings are placed together in a fern dish and the sur-
face of the soil furnished with Selaginella Kraussiana will make a
desirable and attractive centre piece for the dining table. When
the plants attain a height of from three to five feet they are very
beautiful and are desirable for home decoration; and when used as
conservatory plants they suggest grace and beauty. :
CHaMAEROPS—name_ derived from Greek,
meaning dwarf bush.
Low Bush-Palm (Chamaerops humilis) a low, fan-leaved Palm
and a favorite among Palm connoisseurs. It is extremely hardy and
is very attractive both as a plant for home, veranda or porch deco-
ration. On account of its dwarf, bushy nature, it is admirably
adapted as a specimen plant for the conservatory. Chamaerops
humilis is planted to some extent in the South for lawn decoration.
It is native to the Mediterranean basin.
Ruapis is derived from rhaphis, a needle,
alluding to the acute awns of the corolla. These
dwarfish plants are of very distinct habit and
are found among the very few Palms producing
suckers at the base. They are very bushy and
decidedly “‘Japanesque” in appearance.
Fan-shaped Needle Palm (Rhapis flabelliformis) is the species
most generally used for home adornment. It is particularly hardy
and will stand in position in the dwelling house when other plants
and many Palms would not thrive. As a veranda plant it is partic
ularly useful and hardy, surviving when the temperature has been
recorded as low as 28° F. The plant is a native of China and Japan.
Dwarf Needle Palm (Rhapis humilis) is almost stemless, produc
ing a few short reed-like stems and semi-circular leaves with many-
parted segments. It is more graceful in appearance than the spe-
cies flabelliformis, but it is not as hardy. For conservatory decor-
ation, especially for decorative effect in the Water-lily house, it is
one of the desirable subjects, as its light, graceful, airy foliage and
reed-like stems are particularly attractive when reflected in the
water.
before March first each
one had developed a seed
stem. The same seed that
produced these plants was
planted for the main crop
about March fifteenth
dicate that fruit buds on
apple trees did not develop
sufficiently last summer and fall, particularly in
southern Ohio, as a result of dry weather. To assist
in bringing the buds out, good fertilizer and careful
pruning are recommended by Frank Beach, exten-
sion horticulturist of the Ohio State University.
On most soils, especially on thin land, best results
are obtained from nitrate of soda, applied about
the time the buds are showing pink. For an old
bearing tree about 5 pounds is required but for
trees just coming into bearing 2 pounds is sufh-
cient. The nitrate makes the blooms more re-
sistant to frost, assists in holding the young
apples on the trees, and generally improves the
quality of the fruit. Later it encourages a bet-
ter development of fruit buds for the following
year.
Was the name under
which the visitor to a
recent exhibition of the
Massachusetts Horticul-
tural Society saw an unusual vegetable. It is
the tuberous root of Stachys Sieboldu a rela-
tive of, but not much like, the well known
Wool-plant of old-time flower gardens. ‘These
tubers are two to three inches long, ivory white,
crisp and delicious enough cooked as fritters,
or in various other ways. Though not exactly
new the plant is not very well known in spite
of a determined campaign of introduction some
few years ago. Easily grown in the open,
taking care of itself when once planted and
easily producing tubers in quantity—at least a
quart is the season’s crop from one tuber—yet
the bother of keeping them over winter is more
than most people will give. The tubers must be
kept in damp sand at all times, as otherwise they
wilt and shrivel. Even as far north as New
“Japanese Crones”—
A “ New ”»
Vegetable
S we
York or possibly Boston the roots survive the
winters outdoors. As an additional vegetable
in late summer, it has a place just for variety’s
sake. The name of the vegetable as given above
is a mis-spelling of “crosnes,’’ which was applied
to the tubers when they appeared in the markets
of Paris, France (Crosnos du Japon) because
they had been grown at a little spot of that
name—a place not far from Versailles. The
plant is native of China and was sent to France
in 1882 from Pekin by D. Brictschinerker. It
is also commonly known as Chorogi, chiogo,
Chinese Artichoke, Knotroot—so you can take
your choice, and for convenience’s sake perhaps
the latest variant will pass muster.
Lettuce Boiting It isn’t only in the
To home garden that celery
Seed misbehaves itself by
bolting; the market
gardener faces this possibility with considerably
more alarm because it means so much more
to him. The point at issue, however, is that
bolting or running to seed is still something
of a mystery as to the exact cause. Of course,
the usual thing is the “blamed seed”’ but “‘Mar-
ketman” writing in a recent issue of the American
Florist contends that from his experiences and
observation this running away of the celery is
because of undue haste in starting the crop early.
“We produce our own celery seed each season
from select stock plants. To guard against any
chances, we do this under glass. Now in one
corner of a house, where this seed was produced,
some seed shelled out. In December, among our
lettuce there came thousands of celery seedlings.
We saved a few, and finally potted them into
three-inch pots. They made a fine growth, but
and not one went wrong.”
For the Northern states any start earlier than
March first is risky, it is claimed.
* Everlasting ”’
Flowers for
Winter
A writer in the English
Garden with prudent
forethought reminds us
that in the time of
plenty of blossoms between June and September
we are likely to forget the period of dearth
that follows and suggests consideration for the
Everlastings, many of which can be grown in a
garden and which in combination form attrac-
tive collections for filling vases in the winter.
Among the perennials are Gypsophila paniculata
in its double form; the Sea Lavenders (Statices)
especially latifolia and incana; Globe Thistles
(Echinops) ritro and ruthenicus; the Sea Hollies
which we all know assume such a beautiful metal-
lic bloom and sheen; the Teasels (Dipsacus)
especially laciniatus; the lantern-like winter
Cherries (Physalis Alkekengi, orange red, and
Francheti, brilliant red). (Often objected to in
well kept borders because of their root spreading
tendencies.—Ep.); the Cupidones (Catananche)
blue and white flowers; and lastly the Lavender,
which though not conspicuous, is worth while for
fragrance. Among the biennials there is the
silver podded. Honesty which seems to harmonize
fittingly with quainter pieces of old time furni-
ture, ‘‘the love of people who own a fondness for
old time flowers.” In the annuals, of course, we
‘find the Helichrysum which may be called the
typical Everlasting, Rhodanthe Manglesi and
numerous ornamental Grasses. “‘Much care is
needed in gathering blossoms intended to be
kept. . The Golden rule to follow is to cut
just before they are at their best so as to avoid
risk of expanding and shedding.”
Peeps into Gardens
Do these pictures carry any suggestions that will help you solve your own problems?
Architectural features add much to the charm of this Detroit garden of Mr. Edsal
Ford. All the furniture of the garden is painted white. ‘lhe velvety lawn flanked by
masses of perennials makes a delightful picture. The lawn is watered by an inter-
esting underground system which is always ready for use but which does not dis-
figure the garden, as even the spray nozzles themselves disappear when not in use
Nothing adds more to the charm and repose of the garden than water, though it
be simply a tiny stream or a little pool. The arrangement shown here is unusual
but highly effective and might be adapted to many summer locations. There are
many hardy Water Lilies which can be left in a pool three feet deep if it is boarded
over in winter. A few goldfish add to the delight of such a garden and are needed
to prevent the breeding of mosquitoes. (Massachusetts)
Rock gardens continue to grow in popularity and are now to be found
in gardens everywhere. Seldom, however, has anybody hit upon a
More unique or pleasing development of the rock garden idea than is
found in this instance. A long flight of stone steps leads to the front
entrance of the house, with a long, narrow rockery at each side. The
slope is a gradual one and when the visitor approaches the house, which
sets well back from the street, he finds friendly, low-growing flowers ac-
companying him to the very portals. (Near Harrisburg, Pa.)
Starting Geraniums Now for Bloom in Winter anna. surke
When All’s Said and Done No More Thoroughly All-’round Plant Has Ever Been Found. It’s Easy to Have Bloom,at Christmas | }
By Getting Under Way Now, But the Plants Can’t Flower at Both Seasons
POT of scarlet Geraniums in bleak De-
cember is worth a gardenful in August,
when all the land is gay with bloom.
“But my Geraniums will not bloom in
winter; they grow tall and spindling, and pro-
duce nothing but leaves”; are the complaints
from discouraged plant lovers, whose efforts to
brighten the gloom of winter have met with little
success.
There are several reasons why your Geraniums
do not bloom during the winter months. A very
frequent cause is lack of direct sunlight. Unless
you have at least one sunny window—preferably
one facing south, although a window looking to
the east will give a measure of success—do not
try to grow Geraniums in your winter garden.
There are many other plants, such as the Be-
gonias, Cyclamen, and Primrose, which will
supply an abundance of flowers throughout the
winter and which demand very little sunshine.
But given one or more sunny windows, no
plant will make such a bountiful return for so
small an outlay of care and money as our old
friend, the Geranium. Among generations of
housewives it has been a treasured plant, and
there is no cheerier memory than its scarlet
blossoms framed, in an old-fashioned kitchen
window, where the moisture from the steaming
teakettle and the smoke from the good-man’s
pipe made an ideal atmosphere for plants. Grand
mother would hardly recognize her old favorite
in the brilliant hybrids of to-day, whose individual
florets are often two inches across, and whose colors
rival the flaming Poppies. These modern beauties
require no more care than the old narrow-petalled
varieties, and should entirely supersede them.
[! IS most important, in procuring Geraniums
for the window garden, to make sure that the
varieties selected are adapted to winter bloom;
many Geraniums which blossom freely in the
garden through the summer are shy winter
bloomers. One of the best varieties for the win-
dow garden is Paul Crampel, with immense
trusses of ctimson flowers. In my own windows
this variety begins to bloom in October and con-
tinues in full bloom well into summer; indeed, it
is willing to blossom the year round. Clare
Frenot has large trusses of delicate pink veined
salmon—a beautiful variety
and a free winter bloomer.
Susanne Lupre and Countess
of Jersey are good salmon
pinks while Snowdrop and
Venus supply
the white that is
needed in every
collection.
Sunny win-
Few people realize the bigness of the moderp ‘Geranium.’ Why be satisfied with the old-time kind with smaller
flowers? In reading lists remember that the ‘Scarlet Geranium” is not a Geranium at all, but a variety of the Zonal
Pelargonium. Geranium is a “popular’’ name borrowed from another plant found in the fields etc.
206
dows and the right varieties will not insure
success, however, if you have waited until
fall to pot your plants, taking up Geraniums
which have blossomed all summer in the garden
and expecting them to carry on the service
throughout the winter. There are one or two
varieties which seem able to perform that task,
but the majority balk ard demand their period
of rest. So, too, with cuttings taken in the fall;
several months must elapse before they attain
size and strength to bear an abundance of
flowers.
O SECURE continuous bloom from early
fall to spring take cuttings in June. (If
no cuttings can be obtained, young plants of the
desired varieties may be purchased from the
florist in June and treated as directed for cuttings).
Select cuttings about four inches long, choosing
young, green branches rather than woody stems.
Remove all but the top cluster of leaves and plant
each cutting in a six-inch pot, filling it with a
mixture of leaf mold, sand, and garden loam, and
firming the soil well around each cutting. Geran-
jum cuttings root so easily that it is not necessary
to start them in sand, as with many plants.
Plunge the pots up to their rims in a sunny spot,
near enough to the house to be watered easily.
They may be set in the garden among very low
growing plants, or a special strip may be dug for
them, but they must have unobstructed sunlight
throughout the summer. Keep them well
watered at lall times and stir the surface of the
soil around them frequently. They will soon
start into growth and the centre of each cutting
should then be nipped out. This will induce
side branches to grow; the more branches the
plant bears, the more flowers it will produce in
winter.
Fertilizer should be stirred into the soil about
once a month—half a teaspoon of bone meal or
sheep manure to each pot, or a liquid fertilizer
may be given instead. Once a fortnight the pots
should be turned in the ground, to avoid a one-
sided growth. All flower buds ‘should be picked
off as soon as they appear; the business of the
plant now is to produce good, stocky branches,
not flowers.
A BOUT the first of September the pots should
be lifted, washing them to remove any soil
which clings to the sides. Scrape out carefully
the top inch of earth from each pot and replace
with good potting soil to which has been added a
little bone meal or some approved plant food.
The pots should then be set in a sunny window
and watered well. Turn frequently to promote
a uniform growth and allow them to set as many
buds as they will. Within a month their first
blossoms should unfold. Do not try to grow too
many plants.in a single window. They must
have elbow room in order to make satisfactory
growth; better to have half a dozen good speci-
mens than a dozen straggling ones.
PLANTS kept in a sunny window in such small
pots soon dry out and need almost daily
watering. They also need plant food to supple-
ment ‘the small amount of soil around them.
Half a teaspoon of bone meal or other plant food
should be well stirred into the soil once a fort-
night. A liquid fertilizer, made by steeping for
an hour a tablespoon of pulverized sheep manure
in a gallon of warm water, will give bigger and
brighter blossoms. to all house plants. About
the first of February the writer removes the top
layer of soil from each pot and replaces it with
fresh soil from a supply which is brought into the
cellar each fall for potting purposes.
JUNE, 1919
AVING a supply of Geraniums in bloom,
a little thought should be given to their
decorative use in the house. Their blossoms are
so brilliant that care must be taken that the
colors do not clash. White may be mingled with
any shade, but scarlets and pinks are far better
apart, and the different tones of pink do not always
harmonize. If one has a couple of good speci-
mens of each color a succession of beautiful pict-
ures may be had by grouping the different
Geraniums with Ferns and other foliage plants.
What could be cheerier in January than a group
of scarlet Geraniums glinting through the fronds
of Asparagus Sprengeri! The same Geraniums
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
mingled with variegated Crotons bring a bit of
the tropics to the living room, although the snow
be whirling outside. Even if the thermometer
registers zero, a window-box filled with pink and
white Geraniums, fringed with Maidenhair or
Whitman’s Ferns, hints of springtime—of flower-
ing orchards and hedges, and pinky Windflowers
and Trilliums swaying among the Ferns. New
combinations are always suggesting themselves
and window gardening takes on an added zest.
WHILE demanding sunlight for continued
growth and bloom, Geraniums may be used
as decorations in any room for a day or two, with
207
no ill effects. They should then be returned to
their sunny window, while another pot or two
takes their place in the scheme of decoration. In
this way even a sunless room may have the
benefit of bright blossoms.
One or two pots of Rose- or Scented-Geranium
should be in every collection. Their leaf struc-
ture is varied and interesting and when well
grown they make attractive plants. One is
always tempted to pinch a leaf in passing,
to get a stronger whiff of its clean, pungent
odor, and a few leaves will add a refreshing
fragrance to a spray of flowers lacking in that
charm.
Managing the Midsummer Garden for Winter Supply
Starting a June Garden to Provide Vegetables for a Family of Five.
ADOLPH KRUHM Fferrsyt
Now is the Time to Make Extra Sowings to Have Crops to Can
or to Store in the Fall
[Eprtor’s Note: We have repeatedly pointed out in our columns that the average home garden 1s sadly unbalanced in favor of perishable crops that
must be consumed at once.
The following suggestions anticipate storage and canning that will enable the attentive home gardener to enjoy some of the season's
bounty when the present garden 1s but a memory. A plot of ground 30 x 60 feet affords ample space for all the crops, providing attention 15 paid to the proper
utilization of space.
SCHEDULE FOR See ol) pipiens DISTANCE TO APPROXIMATE
j VARIETY REPEATED Tae Pe a Base ee TO SOW] TRANSPLANT aixst a HOR YIELD REMARKS
SOWING sowinas| (INCHES) OR THIN PER I5 FT. ROW
z 1
Beans I 5 f
Bona july fhe go ft. row I pt. 2 4 in Aug. 15-Sept. 15 Io qts MeO 5 ert
Refugee or 1,000 tor.. | July 1, 15 Gouin aS + pt. z G5 & Aug. 15-Sept. 15 ne © date
Beets
Detroit Dark Red..... June 10, 25 BOms a 4 oz I Re Aug. 10 4 doz. 15 ft. row twice
Edmands’ Blood...... July 5,15,25 7S eee 2 oz. to Oct. I 2 in. roots 15 ft. row three times
Cabbage
ANE S@asoniS= =.= +e 45: Secure plants | 24 plants — — 2 ft.x2 ft. | Sept. 1 7 heads For early use
Premium Flat Dutch. . from seeds | 24 “ — — 2% ft. x 2 ft. Oct I-15 at Early winter use
Danish Ballhead...... sownmiddle| 36 “ — — 24 ft.x 23 ft. | Oct. 15 Best keeper
May
Carrot
@hantenaye. .- a June 10, 25 30 ft. row I pkt. 4 3 in Aug. 15—-Sept. 1 4 doz. For early use
Danvers Half Long... | July 5, 15 Gomsars £ oz. $ ripe Sept. 15-Oct. 1 ers Winter keeper
Corn : ;
Golden Bantam....... eo 120 ft. row 1 pt. 2 1 ft. Sept. 1-Oct. 15 2 doz. ears Ce a an
Seymours Sweet Orange | June 25, July 5| 60 “ “ pkt. 2 Tc Sept. 15—Oct. 25 Dir incen 8 dates given .
Cucumber
Davis Perfect......... June 10, 25 10 hills vo I 3 to hill Aug. 15—-Sept. 1 eo ree fruits per| For mustard pickles
: i
Fordhook Pickling .... LCL Os Tio). fs I ei) ee Aug. 15—Sept. I 2 doz. small pickles} For sweet and sour
3 per hill pickles °
Endive
a Gimledee —) eo: June Io, 25 30 ft “ z 12 in Sept. I-15 15 heads Fine with lettuce
ale
Dwarf Green......... June 15, July 1 Soles 3 12 Oct. 1-15 15 plants Store like celery or
leave in garden
Kohlrabi 5
White Vienna......... yune ae Gort 4 oz. 3 ae Aug. 15-Oct. 15 3 doz. eae flavor than
Lettuce 1
PAU SEASONS sey a: - June 10 BOM pkt. 3 First 4in. ?| Aug. 15-25 15 heads In July sow Cos
| Later 12 in. { per row Lettuce
INGwaN oukeesen: ates oc -\: June 15 BOM ‘ 3 Aug. 25-30
Parsnip
Hollow Crown :....... June 10 Coles % oz. 4 4 in Sept. 15—-Oct. 15 3 doz. May be left in open
ground
Radish
White Strasburg...... June 15 is pkt. — Ais Aug. 15 Bh Stands heat well
Charters thirst. sa June 25 ger — Aug. 1-5 BR Develops rapidly
Salsify -
Sandwich Island...... June 5 6a) 4 OZ. I Ain Sept. 15-Oct. 1 Bie Store like carrots
Squash
Gold Summer Crookneck | June 5 10 hills pkt. I 3 plants to hill | Aug. 5-15 Average 6 squashes| Use quickly
per hill
Elaine stor «east June 5 ney £4 os I 2 plants per hill | Sept. r5—Oct. 1 Average 4 squashes | Keeps all winter
Turnip or yeah i
Red Top White Globe.. | June 25 60 ft. 2 oz. 1 4 In. Sept. 15-Oct. 15 3 doz. Keeps until early Jan-
; | | uary
Ruta Baga
Yellow or Amber Globe | June 25 ele) ag 4 6 Oct. 15-25 Oe | For late winter use
Using the Hotbeds in the Hot Weather +. SHEWARD
Just Because the Weather is Warm Don’t Imagine that the Hotbed Can't be Used for Forcing Still
HY not get the utmost use from the
frames and hotbeds? Why let them
lie idle during the season of greatest
activity just because there is so much
going on elsewhere? You do not notice the
professional gardener letting up in his hotbed
use at this time of year, yet most unprofessional
gardeners harbor the notion that the hotbed is
only a contraption for the defeat of frost. The
fact is that these same essentials for the earliest
start can be utilized to emphasize the summer
and be made to serve as miniature, more or less
tropical, greenhouses for the growing of a few
delicate plants that insist in nearly tropical
conditions for their very best accounting. After
the removal of the first planting of the season’s
vegetables and flowers in May the hotbeds are
ideal places for the raising of melons and cucum-
bers of the English or frame type—and if you
have never yet experienced the joys of under
glass cucumbers by all means start now and get
acquainted.
Cucumbers that Are a Delicacy
CucumBERs. Sow the seeds in three inch pots,
one seed to a pot (F7g. r). Plunge the pots in
the hotbed and water them. They will soon be
ready for planting (Fig. 2.).
Make a mound of the soil at the back of the
frame (fig. 9g) and plant the cucumbers on a
slant (Fig. 8). The ideal soil is one composed of
three fourths loam, and one fourth leaf mold
or well rotted manure.
To insure the best results “stop” the plant at
the fourth leaf, by cutting off the top (Fig. ro).
Side shoots will start (Fig. ro, A) and these
should be “‘stopped” at the second leaf (Fig. rz,
A). “Stop” all other shoots breaking from
these at the second leaf (Fig. rz, B). When the
cucumbers are forming “stop” the plant at one
leaf past the fruit (Fig. rr, B, C,).
Some gardeners “set” the fruit of cucumbers
and melons by fertilizing the flowers, placing
the pollen from the male or staminate flower
(Fig. 16) on the stigma of the female or pistillate
flower (/7gs. 15, 17).
Water the plants every day with tepid water
and syringe them every day before closing the
sashes in the afternoon. Remove the lights in
July. Some of the foliage can be removed if the
plants are too crowded (Fig. rr, D).
Melons, Even Where They ‘‘Can’t Be Grown”
MELons are grown much the same as cucum-
bers. Sow the seed im pots, three seeds in each
pot (Fig. 3), later removing the two weakest
plants, thus leaving one good strong plant
(Fig. 4). Melon seed can be grown in a piece
f Z, ge Ss didtices L,
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of turf (Fig. 5), the turf cut up (Fig. 6), or
still another way is to sow the seed in chip
baskets (Fig. 7). But if the frames are empty .
at this time it is best to: sow directly on the
hotbed.
“Set” the plants (Fig. 8) and ‘‘stop” them
after the fourth leaf (Fig. 12, E). Side shoots
will start (Fig. 10, 4) and should be “stopped”
at one leaf past a forming fruit (Fig. 12, F).
Four melons to a plant is sufficient for good
results. Choose the best shaped fruits, and
remove any others that form (Fig. 12, H, M).
“Stop” the melons as shown at G. It is a good
plan to place a piece of slate or brick under the
fruit to support it (J, LZ). The shoot shown at
J, has not been stopped. Water the plants
early in the morning and give them plenty of
air in the daytime. Remove the sashes alto-
gether in July. ;
Tomatoes Ahead of Schedule
Tomatoes planted in the hotbed may also
be counted upon to mature fruits in advance of
those that are set outdoors—or rather, other
things being equal the plants can be kept grow-
ing vigorously without a check by making use of
the hotbed. They can be grown to a single
stem by removing the side shoots (Fig. 13, 4;
Fig. T4).
WY Z sab Os
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T. SHEWARD.
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i
JUNE, 1919
A Ford Nurseries Planting
THE “SETTING” FOR YOUR HOME
Witt any planting of trees, shrubs and flowers
about your home be beautiful?
Of course not!
No more than any kind of a setting will do for
a jewel. The best effect can only be obtained after
the possibilities offered are carefully studied by
men who know—such men as the Ford Nurseries
can place at your service to beautify your home
with an appropriate ‘‘setting’’ of trees, shrubs
and flowers.
We take your home beautifying problem off your mind,
and work out such plans and arrangements as our extensive
experience would deem most effective, guiding ourselves
according to your preferences.
Ask for the latest “FN” Bulletin. It is full of useful
information which the owner of a country home can-
nol affard to be without, and it is FREE for the asking.
he FORD NURSERIES Jue.
105 West Fortieth St. New York.
Nurseries Rye, New York, Jelephone 27
A Garden of ,
Water Lilies ©
is one of the most unique
and charming gardens that
you can have. Most varie-
ties grow readily in a tub or pool, giving a
wonderful display of bea tiful and fragrant
blooms. Some of these plants should be included in
even the smallest garden.
Write me to-day for full information about growing
Water Lilies; ask what varieties are best adapted
for outdoor growing.
WILLIAM TRICKER, Water Lily Specialist
Box E, Arlington, N. J,
Largest establishment in America devoted exclusively
to Water Lilies and water plants
eonies
King of all Flowers
When you make up your list for Fall
planting, select from a refined collection
of the world’s chaicest productions.
Mr. J. F. Rosenfield, originator and
specialist for thirty-five years, has built
up a most superb collection of Peonies
from which you may choose.
Free Booklet
of varieties, prices and valuable informa-
tion on growth and care of Peonies, sent
on request. YOur copy is now ready.
Write to-day.
ROSENFIELD PEONY GARDENS
RENO ROSENFIELD, Prop.
Omaha, Neb.
Benson Station
We offer free to our patrons the advice of
our experts in devising plans for ponds and
selecting varieties.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
HE MONTH of June is the
ideal time to plant the gor-
geous tender or tropical
Nymphaeas. -
We offer strong, pot-grown plants
of a grand assortment of both day
and night blooming varieties in all
colors; also Victoria Regia and
Trickeri.
Hardy Nymphaeas and Nelumbiums
cannot be supplied at this season.
All are described in Dreer’s Garden
Book which also gives full informa-
tion on growing Flowers and Vege-
tables.
A copy free if you mention this publication
ROWE ’S GLOUCESTER
A MMOCK cera the US
Take comfort and rest in the open air.
THE ORIGINAL ~» GENUINE
The Rowe has all-quality construction—built up to an ideal and not down
to a price. Standard in bed hammocks for thirty years. Used exclusively
at summer resorts, clubs, camps and in homes of people who know val-
ues and demand comfort. Madein (government standard) non fadeable,
2t-oz. U. S. Khaki or white sail duck that will resist wind, weather and
rough usage—osts a few dollars more, but will outlast ten one-season
hammoeks. Send for catalogue.
If it’s made of ennvas we can make it. SAVE THIS AD.
E. L. ROWE & SON, INC., Workers in Canvas
135 Water Street Gloucester, Mass.
RE-MOVE-ABLE STEEL
CLOTHES POSTS & FLAG POLES |
COST‘LESS THAN Woop
No holes to dig.
Won't _ disfigure
lawn. Set it your-
self in steel socket
driven in ground.
Poles and posts of
rust proof galvan-
ized steel filled
: Flag
, with concrete. In- j) Poles
‘stantly removable. aecuse
Cannot decay, last life- Soldi ob
time. Better and ff M ret
-cheaper than wood. . ae
Also makers of Tennis ‘yi O"!4S-
met posts and fence }
posts. Ask dealers or
write us for Folder G. #
NEWARK STEEL POST CO. |}
Newark, New Jersey
1 hex nd ie
“Sy iawn: See
“HAMMOND’S SLUG SH
Used from Ocean to Ocean
A light, composite, fine powder, easily distributed
either by duster, bellows, or in water by spraying.
Thoroughly reliable in killing Currant Worms, Potato
Bugs, Cabbage Worms, Lice, Slugs, Sow Bugs, etc.
MM and it is also strongly impregnated with fungicides.
S<@=Put up in Popular Packages at Popular Prices.
Sold by Seed Dealers and Merchants
HAMMOND’S SLUG SHOT WORKS, BEACON, N. Y.
Our Products are sold by Seed Dealers and Merchants in U. S. and Canada
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
HAT’S it. Keep on the jump
as well as on the job. There
will be days, perhaps even
weeks, when the warm weather
will suggest “knocking off,” but don’t
succumb to the temptation or you will
be either worked to death or discour-
aged in July and August. Pertinent
paraBraphs for June consideration fol-
ow:
Amid the Flowers and About the
Lawns
Set out seedling plants
started inthe cold frame,
or the seed-bed last
month or the latter part of April. To
get the quickest growth, always use a
? little “starter” (bone meal, or bone and
tankage or dried blood) where each plant is to be set.
Remember that flowering plants need just as care-
fully prepared soil as vegetables if they are to thrive
well. Make another planting of Gladiolus. Put some
of the bulbs deeper than others, so that they will
not all come along at the same time.
Pinch back for plentiful blooms! This may sacrifice
the first spike of bloom, but it will be much more than
made up later. Spare the top and spoil the rest!
Keep all flowers picked! The plant grows and blooms
not to satisfy your sense of the beautiful, but to pro-
duce seeds. The way to make it keep on blooming is
to prevent its forming seeds. Make a rule never to
let a Sweet Pea blossom wither on the vine.
“Renovate” your bloomed-out flowers. As soon as
your Sweet Peas, or other annuals sown from seed,
begin to “peter out,” cut them back, clean—almost to
the roots. Water generously, and as soon as the new
growth starts, work in a top dressing, or apply liquid
manure. If the plants are treated this way in time—
that is, before they begin to actually die—it is often
possible to get a new crop of blooms which, if not fully
as large as the first, will be prized as much for coming
out of season.
Sow “succession” crops of flowers. Often a single
package of seed contains enough seed for the whole
season’s supply. Gypsophila, Pansies, Poppies, etc.,
should be kept in supply in this way from early summer
to fall.
Continue to bring outdoors house plants that have
bloomed, and plunge them either in a shady corner of
the border, or in a coldframe. When obviously neces-
sary repot. Abutilon, Azalea, Bouvardia, Genista,
Heliotrope, Rhododendron, and others may be handled
this way.
Set out most of the remaining Aster plants.
few in pots for extra early bloom and extra size.
Plant out Carnations and Euphorbias. Cultivate
from the first, and in the case of the former pinch back,
but don’t give too much water.
Repot, stake and tie up, and pinch back Chrysan-
themums as fast as these operations become necessary.
The plants are gross feeders and need plenty of fer-
tility, but don’t give too much water at this stage.
Sow Calceolaria, Mimosa, and Cineraria.
Keep Ferns moderately shaded.
As plants come into bloom, give applications of weak
manure water—say a quart to a plant every week or
ten days.
Syringe stock still indoors to keep down the red spider.
Put a
Stake any of the tall-growing perenmials that are likely —
to be uprooted by heavy winds or that sprawl.
A WEATHER EYE OUT FOR NEXT YEAR
Take plenty of notes as to the condition of the garden
from time to time, the dates of blooming and fading,
the effectiveness of certain combinations, the weak
spots that you will want to remedy by rearrangement
during fall and next spring.
Keep the lawn mower sharp and well-oiled and use
it often. Better set the blades a little high and trim
lightly twice a week, than let the grass grow long and
then cut it way back close to the roots to save time.
Keep the window boxes from drying out. The double
bottomed affairs are especially useful because they can
be filled up to last over a period of enforced, unavoid-
able neglect.
Whenever a heavy rain washes out a bit of the path
or drive, or threatens to cut a gully down a grassy
bank or across a piece of lawn, repair the place immedi-
ately. The extent of the injury from repeated events
of this kind increases unbelievably.
Mulch newly set trees of which the foliage is not broad
or dense enough to shade the cultivated ground around
them. Don’t try to grow bedding plants or’even grass
around them—or if you have to, wait until they are
thoroughly established and able to fight for all the mois-
ture they need against the surface feeders.
The grass edges along paths, borders, etc., look much
The Reminder is to “suggest”? what may be done during the next few weeks.
are given in the current or the back issues of THe GarpEN MacazinE—it is manifestly impossible to give
all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine.
up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request), and the Service Department will also cite
references to any special topic if asked.
When referring to the time for out door work of any sort New York City at sea level in @ normal season is
taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate.
fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from New York, would be about ten
days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest about a week earlier.
Feb. issue) also estimates an allowance of four days for each one degree of latitude, for each five degrees of
longitude, and for each four hundred feet of altitude.
dike Months Reminder
JUNE—A MONTH TO KEEP ON THE JUMP
Horse Sense Views of June Work
1. Keep the growing crops
srowing fast, and give them every
necessary attention during their for-
mative, vegetative stages. When they
begin to mature you can leave them
alone; they can do that themselves.
2. Don’t leave ground idle;
as quick as one crop comes out put
in another, even if it is only a catch,
green manure crop to add to the
humus content of the soil.
3. The more favorable the con-
ditions are for crops, the better they
are also for weeds; therefore increase
the amount and thoroughness of
your cultivating in proportion to your
feeding, watering, and caring for the
soil.
better if trimmed frequently than if left until they are
unkempt and then given an entire, severe going over
which leaves them looking raw and stiff.
Watch out for suckers from the roots of grafted plants,
especially Roses. Cut them off as soon as discovered;
also any adventitious shoots that appear along the
trunks of ornamental trees.
Prune, or rather trim (i. e. cut out the old wood) the
shrubs on which the blossoms have come and gone.
This will remove the ugly dry seed pods, and also per-
mit the plants to make a strong growth for next sea-
son’s flowers.
TRANSPLANT NOW!—WHY NOT?
Of course this isn’t the recommended time for trans-
planting, but it is a fact proved by the success of more
than one enforced experiment, that PRACTICALLY
ANYTHING CAN BE MOVED AT PRACTICALLY ANY TIME,
provided the entire root system is never allowed to dry
out, from the time when the digging starts until the
plant is established in its new location, maybe six weeks
after the moving operation. Of course this means
extra effort, but if you want results out of season you
can get them if you are willing to pay for them!
In Orchard and Fruit Garden
Destroy tent caterpillar nests together
with their occupants; any time between
sunset and sunrise will find most of them
at home ready to be crushed or burnt
out. A plumber’s blow torch is highly
effective and works so fast that it does
less damage to the trees than the old fashioned kerosene
torch. But of course care is needed in either case.
The point is: get after the caterpillars while they—and
their nests—are small.
Pinch back young blackberry and raspberry canes
about the end of the month, after cutting out close
to the ground any that are clearly not needed. Rasp-
berry canes should be headed back to about three feet
in length, blackberries to not more than four. ~
Keep after the currant worm with arsenical sprays
until the berries begin to swell, then substitute helle-
bore.
Make one last search for borers in the peach trees
before replacing the soil around them that you removed
late last month when on your first borer hunt of the
season.
Keep the grapes cultivated, sprayed, tied up on the
trellis, and trimmed back where they threaten to run
to wood. For extra fine fruit, free from insect injury
or traces of disease, tie up a few bunches while still
210
Details of how to do each item
References to back numbers may be looked
Roughly, the season advances northward
Dr. Hopkins (page 20,
small in paper bags. See that the
foliage is so distributed, and, if neces-
sary thinned, as to enable the fruit
left unbagged to receive plenty of sun-
light.
I7-YEAR. LOCUSTS NEAR you?
can find this out by asking the U. S.
Department of Agriculture) cover any
young fruit trees—and ornamental
deciduous sorts too—with cloth net-
ting or any other handy protector as
soon as any of these noisy insects
make their appearance. This year
If you are in a locust section (you —
is to be celebrated by the simultane-
ous emergence of two swarms of these creatures, —
more accurately. known as periodical cicadas; one is of
the 17-year variety which went into retirement in 1902, _
the other is a 13-year brood. Fortunately they do not
trees, especially small ones, by puncturing the bark
of their twigs in the course of their egg laying operations.
It is this that is to be guarded against where the insects
are numerous.
_ Continue to thin fruit whenever you discover crowd-
ing. Of course the sooner you do it, the less the growth
and vigor wasted in the fruits you remove.
Stake young trees if they are tall for their age and top
development, or subjected to the force of heavy winds.
Every time a small tree is swayed, especially a re-
cently planted one—tt is loosened in the soil and, prob-
ably, some of its new, tiny, tender roots are broken.
Plow up the old strawberry bed that has produced two
crops and use the land for some late season, cultivated
crop. Keep the one year old bed, that may still be
bearing, well cultivated; or if it is mulched keep the
mulch renewed. Netting may still be needed to protect
the ripening fruit from birds.
Use bordeaux mixture, a poison, and some sort of
contact spray generously. The only excuse for not
spraying all tree fruits at least twice this month is
absolute knowledge and proof that your grounds are
wholly free of all insect enemies and plant diseases.
In other words there is no such excuse.
Where the Vegetables are Growing
Plant and sow succession crops con-
stantly. Whenever a row is cleared
spade it up, working in some general
fertilizer and bone meal, and have
KJ something else growing or germinating
tm, there within the week. A good rule
“for peas, lettuce, radishes and carrots
is: Sow a succession crop just as soon as the preceding
one shows above ground. But about the end of this
month stop sowing radishes—except the White Icicle
sort—and also peas. “They cannot do themselves justice
during hot weather. .
As soon as it is definitely safe to do so, bring out into
the open ground practically all your seedlings—cab-
bage, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and the
other tender sorts which must have as long a season as
possible. Leave, say, a dozen of each kind in the hot-
bed so that if anything happens to those set out within
a fortnight, you will have material for replacements.
In setting out cabbage or related crops, if there is
real danger of maggot or club root, try puddling each
plant in a mixture of wood ashes one part and water
three parts.
This is planting time forall the main crops—celery,
cabbage, cauliflower, etc. It is sowing time for the fall
crops of long season things—again cabbage, but kale,
and collards as well—and of crops for summer use,
such as turnips, New Zealand spinach and others.
Set out sweet potato plants in a warm situation and
warm, sandy, well manured soil.
Stop cutting asparagus as soon as peas are coming
in freely. Work in a top dressing of fertilizer or give
a good application of liquid manure, then start culti-
vating with the idea of keeping it up for a month or
six weeks at least.
Keep the soil around the beans loose at all times—
except, do not cultivate or even handle the plants when
they are wet. If you want a mess for dinner wait till
the sun dries them off; and if it is a misty or rainy day,
decide on some other vegetable.
Tomatoes should either be trained carefully and given
frequent attention, or left to their own devices from the
very first. Those that are to be trained should be
taken in hand at once and pruned, supported, and tied
up to a trellis or to individual stakes. — ,
Spray the potatoes about three times this month,
preferably just after a rain so the poison will remain on
the leaves for the longest possible time.
Plant a crop of cucumbers to be picked small for
pickles.
actually attack any plant—indeed the adults do not eat —
at all; but in laying their eggs the females often injure
:
«
JUNE, 1919
QA
THE BRAND PEONIES
Originated by O. F. Brand & Son
America’s Foremost Hybridizers of the Peony
Our Peony Gardens were established in 1869 and now for fifty
years we have been growing peonies on a large scale. Kindly per-
mit us to call your attention to the fact that for the last eighteen
years we have been actively engaged in originating by cross pol-
lenization and selective breeding new varieties of Paeconia.
Many years are required to produce and determine the worth
of a new peony and we cannot emphasize too strongly the conserv-
ative methods which we are pursuing in this work. Every peony
in our list has received the sanction of the most discriminating
connoisseurs before we have believed it to be worthy of introduction.
We consider ten years. from the planting of the seed, to be the
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
GILSON WEEDER
The handiest little tool ever invented for work-
ing in a flower garden, close to bushy plants
and around shrubs. The side arms protect
the plants, and the rocker action gives double
LIBERTY CULTIVATOR
The Liberty Adjustable Cultivator - Weeder
breaks up the top soil thoroughly, while the
specially-designed cutting teeth make quick
work of destroying weeds. The Liberty
efficiency. Comes in four sizes, all with
comes with hand or wheel outfit, two sizes
6-foot handle.. :
of each.
Ppa
5-tooth hand cult. adjusts 4-7’’ $1.25 bs
7-tooth hand cult. adjusts 4-10" 1.55 a
7-tooth wheel cult. adjusts 4-107 3.65
9-tooth wheel cult. adjusts 5-14” 4.15
least period of time in which one shou!d attempt to arrive at a cer-
, tainty of the worth of any oneseedling. During the years we have
concentrated upon the peony we have bloomed some five hundred
thousand seedlings and the standard of perfection which we have
set for the “Brand”’ peonies is such that of all this half mitlion
only a mere handful, as it were, have been considered to be worthy
of the name of “BRAND.”
Our work of producing new seedlings is going constantly on-
ward and we expect to supplement our list from time to time with
new creations bearing individual characteristics which will entitle
them to this distinction.
We consider some of our peonies to be as fine as were ever pro-
duced and the eagerness with which they are now being sought by
collectors the world over convinces us that we are not alone in
our views.
Charles McKellip, Chestine Gowdy, Elizabeth Barrett Brown-
ing, Frances Willard, Henry Avery, Judge Berry, Longfellow, Lora
Dexheimer, Martha Bulloch, Mary Brand, Mrs. A. G. Ruggles
9 and Richard Carvel are a few of the good Brand Peonies. There
are many more.
Our beautiful new 1919 Catalogue will be issued just at the
close of the blooming season. Write for it.
A.M. BRAND
i 40 Years a Peony Grower
Faribault
Become 2 LANDSCAPE
Prepare by mail
ee ewe! ARCHITECT
Inexpensive. Easy to master. Large income. Diploma awarded.
Special proposition to HOME OWNERS and Plan for beauti-
fying your property. Write to-day. L. W. Fisk, President.
AMERICAN LANDSCAPE SCHOOL Newark, New York.
33’’ blade for narrow rows _ $1.00
5 ’’ blade for general work 1.10
6 ”’ blade for lighter soils (llI5>
8 ’’ blade for wide rows 1.25
Gilson Garden Tools are sold by
progressive dealers. The above are
prices at the factory and do not
include delivery charges. Ask your
dealer, or send check or money
order to,
J. E. Gilson Co.
Port Washington Wis.
iinet 0
Minnesota
Choice Evergreens
FOR more than a century we have been
growing quality evergreens for high class
gardens, wherever fine landscape decor-
ations were desired. This long special-
ized experience and our system of
weeding out and transplanting to in-
’ sure adaptability to surroundings,
is your guarantee of perfect ever-
greens.
“ We have over 800 acres of splen-
did specimens. you want
sturdy, ornamental ever-
greens, get them here. If you
do not know just what you
want, send for our catalogue,
prepared by experts on horti-
“| culture.
AMERICAN NURSERY CO.
Flushing, L. I. New York
FAIRFAX ROSES
The Aristocrat of Rosedom, no garden com-
plete without my hardy everblooming roses.
Grown under natural conditions. My free
guide on “How to grow roses” sent on re-
quest. I also have a select grade of
GARDEN seeds.
W. R. GRAY
OAKTON, VA.
Support Your Roses
Dahlias or Tomatoes
with the ‘‘Adjusto”
The ADJUSTO Plant
Support is a simple,
strong, low-priced support which
can be adjusted to any height.
There’s no wear-out to them, they can be
used overand over again. If your dealer
hasn’t them write us today.
FORREST SEED CO., Box 40, Cortland, N. ¥.
Don’t Sign a Treaty
With Your Plant Enemies!
There is no peace in your garden or lawn while these enemies are
free to destroy your plants. The prevalent high temperature of -
the past winter has made it necessary for you to take extra pre-
caution with your plants this year. This high temperature with practically no severe weather, has given
your plant enemies opportunity to prepare for a great spring offensive. Will you be ready to meet them with
APHINE | FUNGINE | VERMINE
The Recognized Standard Insecticide
ANDORRA-GROWN
eee S
Remedy for green,» black, white fly, For rust, mildew, and blights on flowers, Will destroy any soil enemies attacking
thrips and soft scale. vegetables and tender plants. roots, as angle worms, eels, and the like.
Put up in various sizes to meet the requirements of any garden or orchard. Ask your dealer.
Aphine Manufacturing Company, Madison, New Jersey |
Shrubs and
Plants
OUR Spring offering is six
hundred acres of well-
grown trees, «shrubs and
plants. 100-page price list
on request.
When we plan a greenhouse, either for a city lot or a
= country place, we try, considering the use to which it is
to be put, to keep it in harmony with its surroundings.
It is thus the crown jewel of the grounds, dominating
Andorra all its neighbors.
Nurseries
Wm. Warner Harper, Prop.
Box 100
Chestnut Hill
Phila., Penna.
- Foley Greenhouses
have for years been the leaders in those improvements that make our greenhouses permanent struc-
tures in which utility is combined with beauty. We will be glad to work with your architect or to
submit plans and sketches direct. Ask for your copy of ‘‘The Greenhouse Beautiful.”
THE FOLEY GREENHOUSE MFG. CO. 180 N. State St., Chicago —
iN
ail
Advertisers will appreciale your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
212 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
nt All Summer
Did you think it was too late to plant and that
all the beauties of a garden would have to be
postponed until another year? Nonsense! 80%
of the flowers, shrubs, trees and evergreens can
be planted all summer long. We guarantee suc-
cess and satisfaction.
We shall be more than delighted to explain how
itis possible. Let us send with our compliments,
“Hardy Garden Flowers,’ a 24-page book in
color. It is one of a series we have prepared for
those who are interested in having a more
attractive landscape. They are known as Hicks
Monographs. You will receive them all if you
are on our list.
HICKS NURSERIES
Westbury, Long Island
Box M
—— { Comins nothing poisonous or injurious to plants or
FREE Our book on Tree and Plant Diseases.
Write for it to-day.
James Good, Original Maker, 2111-15 E. Susquehanna Ave., Phila.
UR GARDENS ought to be like the Gardens of Nature,
ever changing, growing, developing toward the ideal—
perfect harmony.
Are you contemplating the improvement of your Gardens
this season? If so, and if you are interested in the American
(informal) style of Landscape Art, would be pleased to sug-
gest plans and designs that are in keeping with the best
laws of our Art.
WARREN B. MEIXNER Landscape Architect ITHACA, N. Y.
GARDEN ‘‘MOVIES’’
Garden Clubs, Civic Associations, Schools, Churches:—write
for details concerning our free educational moving pictures on
“How to Plant.”
Nurserymen’s National Service Bureau
F. F. Rockwell, Manager
220 West 42nd Street New York City
FREE LECTURES
Garden Clubs, Civic Associations, Schools, Churches:—write
for details concerning our illustrated lectures on ‘‘Your Home
. More Fruitful,” ‘“Your Home More Beautiful,” and ‘‘How to
Succeed With What You Plant.”
Nurserymen’s National Service Bureau
F. F. Rockwell, Manager
220 West 42nd Street New York City
Landscape Gardener
Graduate landscape gardener wants position as superin-
tendent of small place or as gardener. Skilled in care of
flowers, lawns, drives, fruits, trees, shrubbery and vege-
tables. Can be seen at any of the New York hotels by ap-
pointment. Best of references giadly furnished. Have
worked under one of America’s best known landscape men.
Unmarried. Address
Box 126, care of Garden Magazine, Garden City, N. Y.
By FRANCES DUNCAN
Formerly Garden Editor of
The Ladies’ Home Journal
Home Vegetables and Small
Fruits
Their Culture and Preservation
Illustrated. $1.40 net.
The Joyous Art of Gardening
Illustrated. $1.75 net.
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
|; COOK & SWAN CO. Inc., SULCO-VB—Dept. G., 148 Front St., New York, N. Y.
“You Must Spray
To Make Crops Pay”
With all the world on rations, you can’t
afford to risk the success of your garden.
Plant good seed in well-fertilized soil. Hoe, cultivate and
spray. Bugs and blights will have little chance to spoil
your crops if you study your Spraying Calendar and use
disinfect the hen house, put on whitewash or cold-water
paints and wash the auto. The auto-pop shut-off prevents waste of
solution. The patented non-clog nozzles (fine spray and solid
stream) handle any kind of solution,
Our free Spraying Calendar isa guide to the novice, a
reminder to the expert. Send forit to-day. Ask also for 1919
(3) catalogue which describes 40 styles of Auto-Spray.
The E. C. BROWN CO., 850 Maple Street, Rochester, N.Y.
EE | =) ————— | - | —
SAVE YOUR TREES, PLANTSs»° FLOWERS
From the ravages of the San Jose and other scale insects, plant
lice and parasitic fungi by spraying them with
SULCO-VB
A combined contact insecticide and fungicide of unusual merit.
Prepare now to protect your rose bushes from green lice.
Please send us your dealers name and address and we will
see that you are supplied.
“Established 1862’
|
@
Obit lee ©
It will also protect your fruit trees and rose bushes, |
@
1)
Evergreen
Bittersweet
Euonymus radicans vegetus
A lovely climber, adaptable to all loca-
tions: unsurpassed for covering trellises,
walls or stumps. Rich green all the year,
with crimson berries in winter. Can
be planted at any time.
Ist size, 50c each; $5 per dozen
2nd size, 75c each; $8 per dozen
3rd size, $1.50 each; $15 per dozen
Adolf Muller xcéstes
orristown,Penna.
The New York Botanical Garden
INSTRUCTION IN GARDENING
Practical instruction is offered in vegetable, flower
and fruit gardening, greenhouse and nursery prac-
tice, together with lectures, laboratory, field and
shop work in garden botany, zoology, pathology,
landscape design, soils, plant chemistry and related
subjects.
The curriculum is planned for the education of
any persons who would become trained gardeners or
fitted to be superintendents of estates or parks.
Students may be admitted at any time.
Circulars and other information will be mailed on application.
THE NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN
BRONX PARK, NEW YORK CITY
I HODGSON Portable HOUSES
Your cottage or bungalow for the Summer is already planned and
built for you—and it is built right. You will find it in the Hodgson
Catalog—photographs show exactly how it looks. There areanumber
of models, from one totenrooms. They are built of better mate-
rials than you could be sure of buying yourself. Skillful work-
manship makes them perfectly snug and weather tight.
Perhaps you want a garage, play house, a dog kennel
or even a bird house. We ship them in painted and
fitted sections that are quickly and easily set up—and
without the help of skilled workmen, either. Write
for catalog today.
E. F. HODGSON CO.
Room 228, 71-73 Federal Street, Boston, Mass.
6 East 39th Street, New York
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and wwe will, too
> Shee Ne cy a eee
IMPOSSIBLE!
No garden is impossible with the SUB-
PIPE SYSTEM OF IRRIGATION.
No more worry about, drought. Your lawn
and garden more beautiful. Your fruits,
vegetables and flowers more productive and
profitable. Water when you need it with no
loss through evaporation as the underground
system feeds the roots directly. Think of what it
means. Easily and economically installed. Sci-
entifically constructed. The latest in irrigation.
Write for circular.
THE WESTERN IRRIGATION CO.
P. O. Box 1338 Tulsa, Okla,
ela all
(WoL Attract the Birds
ae charm of
arden ise # , 3
hance §
by adaing
a Dira bath, orna-
mental slower'pot ,
or box in Wheatley;
Old Ivory Tint’ *
Ly 5
=Sen for Illvstrated Catalog
_wheatloy Pottery”
-— “SSTABLISHED ‘1879
SI3z IMP SOAP
SPRAY
Sure Insect Killer
MP Soap Spray is a scientifically prepared compound
that is destructive to insects without injuring plants
or roots. Does not spot leaves, fruit, grass or deface
paint work. It is clean and colorless. May be used on
fruit trees; shade trees; flowering shrubs; vines; garden
truck; and on all sorts of plants, both under. glass and
out of doors.
It is most effective against rose bug; mill [bug; white,
black, green and rhododendron fly, red spider: thrips;
aphis; fruit pests; elm leaf beetle and moths. Used in
country’s biggest orchards and estates. Very economical,
one gallon is mixed with 25 to 40 gallons of water. Full
directions on each can. Genuine can has Ivy Leaf
trade mark. Your money back if Imp Soap Spray
does not do as claimed. Order direct if your dealer can-
not supply.
Pint can
Quart “
Sent by express at purchaser’s expense,
F. E. ATTEAUX & CO., Inc., Props.
Eastern Chemical Co.
176 Purchase St., BOSTON, MASS.
Dealers Wanted.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JUNE,
Sow Mangel Seed.—In a rich spot in the
garden sow a packet of mangel seed. Just as
easy to grow as beets except that the seeds should
be dropped not closer than five inches apart be-
cause the mangels grow much larger than the
largest beets. Mangels make excellent winter
feed for poultry. They are easy to store also.
Day Old Chicks.—During the last ten or
fifteen years a very important development of
poultry raising has been the day old chick busi-
ness, as it is called. The chicks are hatched in
large incubators and sold, shipped, or delivered
within a week to people even as far away as a
thousand miles. It is a thoroughly satisfactory
method of raising young flocks provided the
buyer already has experience in chick raising.
On a large scale it is necessary to have a brooder
and to employ the artificial chick methods. Many
readers of THE GarpEN Macazine will not want
to raise as large a number as would make the
purchase of a brooder desirable. They will need
only twenty-five to fifty or perhaps one hundred
chicks altogether. To raise these hens may be
relied upon. It is necessary, however, to buy
the chicks in only such quantities as can be
handled by the number of hens available. Each
hen should be kept setting on artifical eggs for a
few days or even for the whole normal period of
incubation—three weeks—so that perhaps
twenty-five or fifty chicks may be bought at a
time. The chicks may be given to the hens in
exactly the same way as if the hen had hatched
them.
Hens as Mothers.—In the note Hens as
Hatchers we discussed hatching to within a day
or two of the actual hatching Now we will
continue. As soon as the hatch begins the shells
from which the chicks have escaped should be
removed so they will not fit over the remaining
eggs and thus prevent other chicks from emerging.
The hen may do some of this but it is always
advisable to examine every egg to make sure she
has missed none of these empty shells. Such
examination should be made two or three times
during the first day of hatching Every chick
should be removed, placed in a flannel lined box,
and taken to a warm room such as the kitchen.
The hen will thus remain upon the eggs still in
the nest, whereas she might leave with only part
| of her brood. Thus better hatches may be ex-
pected.
It is not necessary, nor is it advisable, to give
thechicks anything to eat untilthey are more than
twenty-four hours old. It will do them no harm
to wait thirty-six or forty-eight hours before the
first feed, because they will be provided with a
store of food in the form of the yolk of the egg,
which has been surrounded by their tissues and
is capable of sustaining them for ten days without
harm. ath
Water may be given within twenty-four hours
and must be supplied from that time forward.
It must be in a shallow vessel so the’chicks cannot
wet themselves or do more than place their beaks
in it.
The first feed may consist of crumbled hard
boiled eggs either alone or mixed with bread
crumbs. ‘This should be fed as early in the morn-
ing as possible and every two hours throughout —
the day up until late evening, no food being
allowed to remain longer than fifteen or twenty
minutes because it might become sour and be-
cause the chicks should be fed at regular intervals
rather than continuously. After the third or
fourth day minced onion tops, lettuce, or other
soft vegetable material may be given; and also
millet seed, finely cracked wheat or cracked corn
may be added.
The brood should be given to the hen at night.
She should first be liberally fed so she will be
contented, then she should be placed in the coop
she is to occupy with the brood and the chicks
should be added one at a time, preferably with
the gloved hand shielding them as they are given
to her. If she pecks she will thus not hit the
chick and only slightly hurt the hand. In a
short time she will settle down with the brood and
be all right by morning. —'
The coop should be in a dry place where the
chicks may run out during dry weather and after
the dew is dried on the short grass. They will
thus get vegetable matter as they need it. The
position of the coop should be changed daily and
that of the run every two or three days so there
will be no danger of fouling the ground. From
the very start the hen should be well fed with
a different kind of food from that given the chicks;
first of all to keep her contented and secondly to
get her back into laying condition as soon as
possible. Often she may begin to lay before she
leaves her brood if handled in this way. After
the first week the feeds may be three hours apart
and when three weeks or a month old, four hours
apart. When this second reduction is made,
however, it is advisable to place a hopper filled
with dry mash in the coop so the chicks may help
themselves. It is also advisable to have finely
sifted charcoal, ground bone, and gravel or grit
for both hen and chicks.
Effect of Inoculation on the Crop
BECAUSE of the vigorous and uninterrupted
rowth of the peas and beans when inocu-
easel the product of the vines is of surpassing
tenderness, succulence and sweetness. - Retarded
growth always means toughness as contrasted
with the tenderness which goes with quick
growth.
And because there is an oversupply of nitrogen
the beans and peas will be richer in protein, for
it is a fact that the quantity of available nitrogen
determines, within certain limits, the quantity
which goes into the seed in the form of protein.
And because of the added nitrogen and of the
extra humus due to the more vigorous growth of
plant and roots, the crops which follow will be
more vigorous, more healthy, yield better, and
their product ‘have that same added quality
which comes with favorable conditions of growth.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, loo
ihe
.
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Too
You Can Change the Location
of your
“Bulfalo” Portable Fencing
as easily as you change the hands of your watch
JuNnE, 1919 215
A BIRD BA
\\
ce
ui HN
A I
TH
RI
x
OM Nones
See
SEVERE
a es
your yard by merely adding the number of sections necessary.
The ERKINS STUDIOS
219 Lexington Avenue New York
A June Carol
Give the birds a Forest City
J Home in your garden. They will
pay their rent many times over with their cheerful song
and industrious ways.
_ FOREST CITY BIRD HOMES, 1810 W. State Street, Rockford, Ill.
MRS. J. P. KING, Garden-Architect
Hexenhutte Farm, West Nyack, N. Y.
Invites correspondence with owners contemplating
alterations or the laying out of new gardens;
especially owners of small places. No charge for
first examination and preliminary report.
The Glen Road Iris Gardens
Grace Sturtevant, Prop.
Massachusetts
Wellesley Farms,
GROWERS AND ORIGINATORS OF FINE VARI-
ETIES OF BEARDED IRIS
Japanese Gardens
Specially made for
summer house
Gardens are a necessary part of
world reconstruction.
T.R. OTSUKA
300 South Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Three for $3.50
Back to Nature for the Birds
If wanted by Parcel Post include
Postage; 3 weigh 10 lbs.
CRESCENT CO. “Birdville’”” Toms River, N. J.
$1.00 each
2 ‘
D ot
cine
LM
467 Terrace
ETA
LATE
AAA
Mace in sections entirely of steel which enables you to expand
ee
Booklet No. 70 C will be mailed upon request with six cents in stamps to cover postage.
BUFFALO WIRE WORKS CO.
(Formerly Scheeler’s Sons)
IO
Moss Aztec Pottery
Offers a wide choice of objects, from simple fern dishes and
bud vases to impressive jardinieres and plant stands. Its
| predominating characteristic is refined elegance in designs and
colors. A post card request will bring you the “Moss Aztec”
catalogue and name of nearest dealer.
DISTINCTIVE FERN PAN $1.50
is square with
separate liners
measuring 7x7
inches by 4 inches
_ deep. Order as
No. 495.
PETERS & REED
POTTERY
COMPANY
So. Zanesville, O.
Can be taken down by simply pulling out of the
ground. No post hole digger, maul or fence stretcher
needed. Ideal for fencing in baby chicks, duck-
lings, geese, as well as for grown chickens, ducks,
geese, etc. Also for fencing in young dogs, rabbits
and other small animals.
’ Prices as follows :
, , =
ire lone ee, high
x go ec
“ee x 2’ “cc
$4.13 net per section
1.76 se “é “ee
5 20 “é “ce “ee
1 "16 “ec “ec “ee
(gate)
Buffalo, N. Y.
SCHOOL OF HORTICULTURE
FOR WOMEN
Ambler, Pennsylvania
18 miles from Philadelphia
SUMMER COURSE—Vegetable gardening,
floriculture, fruit, canning, and preserving.
August 4th to 30th.
A. Vegetable and flower gardens, greenhouses,
ay orchards, ornamental trees and shrubs; dem-
onstration kitchen, apiary, poultry plant,
live stock. Lectures and outdoor prac-
tise. Two year diploma course, beginning
January, 1920.
ELIZABETH LEIGHTON LEE,
Director.
Dog Kennel
POULTRY thrives in Hodgson Portable Houses. Their
sturdy, close fitting construction gives certain protection
against draughts and weather. They are designed so that
excellent ventilation is assured. This is-«of great importance
to the health of poultry. ;
Cleaning is simplified by the convenient construction.
No.4 Poultry House for 200 hens—s5 units
No. 3 Pouliry House for 30 hens
Vermin-proofed red cedar sections of the house you order
are shipped all ready: to bolt together. No building knowl-
edge is required to set them up. Write for catalogue to-day.
E. F. HODGSON CO., Room 311, 71-73 Federal Street,
Boston,. Mass.—6 East§89th Street, New York City.
HODGSON PORTABLE HOUSES
The public is warned
not to purchase Mow-
ers infringing the
Townsend Patent No.
1,209,519 Dec. 19,
1916.
Ll
“STOWNSENDS TRIPLEX
Townsend TRIPLEX
CUTS A SWATH 86 INCHES WIDE
Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, the
TRIPLEX will mow more lawn in a day than the
best motor mower ever
made; cut it better and at
a fraction of the cost.
It will mow more lawn than any
three ordinary horse-drawn mowers
with three horses and three men.
Write for catalogue illustrating all
types of LawnsMowers
"SP. TOWNSEND & CO.
23 Central Avenue, Orange, INGrale
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
AAA
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JUNE, 1919
Dodson Wren
House, 4 com-
partments, 28
in. high, 18 in. in
diameter, Price ®5. Price $12.
Dodson Bird Houses
“=8, Dodson Purple
Martin House.
Cottage style. 28
compartments, 32x 27 in.
Dodson Sexangular
Flicker House,,16%
in. long, 12 in.
wide, 1x in. deep.
Price #5.
ay Dodson erin.
Bluebird - high.
House 4 #W 18 in. in
compart diameter.
ments. Price %5.
Inviting Summer Homes
for Our Native Birds
They are scientifically built by a bird lover, who lives in a bird sanctu-
ary, and has devoted years of study to the song birds and their habits.
Mr. Dodson’s close observation and nature study
have taught him the small details which not only
attract the birds to the homes he builds, but in-
vite them to return season after season. These
bird houses are not only an added attraction in
themselves, but are an assurance of an artistic
and cheery environment.
Let the houses lose
Order Now their newness by yy
weathering, blending into the natural me
surroundings. Free bird book sent on
request, illustrating Dodson line and pogson
giving prices. Also beautiful bird picture Cement
FREE. Bird Bath,
or a Dollar!
Three New Perennials from Seeds:
1. Clemataquilla
A superb new perennial combining the
beauty of the most graceful columbine
with the artistry of the clematis.
Seeds sown now will produce plants
to flower next Spring. Every delicate
shade appears among these flowers.
Pkg. 50c.
2. The New Scotch Long - spurred
Colambine.
The finest in its class. Pkg. 50c.
heicht32in.,
Basin 34 in.
in diameter.
Price ®17. fF
x Pres. American Audubon Association
» Joseph H. Dodson 77764 Finesinon “Aone 3. Fuld’s New Surprise - Mixture
Larkspur.
Gigantic flowers in unlimited variety
—no two plants alike. Pkg. 50c.
ALL THREE for $1.00.
These and hundreds of other desirable peren-
nials are fully described in the latest edition of
““My Garden Favorites’’—Free copy at your
disposal. F
MAURICE FULD
PLANTSMAN—SEEDSMAN |
7 West 45th St. New York
Until July ist
we take advance orders for the VERY CREAM of
Darwin, Breeder and Rembrandt
Tulips and best Narcissi
Let us send our Special List of these and
also our Autumn Catalogue
Deerfield, Ill.
ORDER
DUTCH BULBS
NOW
ac
Franken Brothers
|\SALAD SECRETS
100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c. by
mail. 100 meatless recipes 15c. 50 sand-
wich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
B.O.BRIGGS 250 Madison St., Brooklyn, N.Y.
IRIS &
SHOW
PEONY
Everybody Welcome
Visitors will not be importuned to buy
GEO. N. SMITH, Cedar St., Wellesley Hills, Mass.
7ft. high ROSE ARCHES 4 tt. wide
Heavy Rust Proof $12.00 Each Painted $8.50 Each
Any Size or Shape Made to Order
Wire and Iron Fence—for every purpose
Trellises—Entrance Gates—Tennis Backstops
BROOK TRELLIS CO. 37 Barclay St., New York, N. Y.
BANNER
GUARANTEED
IRIS
Pallida Dalmatica, an immense stock of this
excellent Iris and many other varieties. Send
for list.
W. J. ENGLE & SON, R. No.8, Dayton, O.
fi
No technical knowl-
edge required.
Self-operating
SUNDIALS
Real Bronze Colonial Designs
From $3.50 Up
Also Bird Baths, Garden Benches, Fountain
Sprays and other garden requisites.
Manifactured by
The M. D. JONES CO.
Concord, Mass.
Send for illustrated Price-List
Our booklet
No. IT tells
how it works.
CP lis
.e Sewage Disposal Co.
286 Fifth Ave., New York City,
THE GYM:
An ideal Poultry House 6 ft. x 9 ft.
for city or village. Build one NOW.
Next month buy roto 2opullets. Their
eggs will pay for the whole outfit in
one season. Complete working-rlans.
Easy and Sanitary method of Poul-
try Keeping. Write for circulars,
Wellsville, N. Y.
The Years Between
By Rudyard Kipling
“At his poetic best.” These poems show the master poet in
the maturity of his inspiration.
Net, $1.50; leather, net, $2.00
COMPRESSED
AIR SPRAYER
SMITH
No. 22 Publishers
Doubleday, Page & Co.
STATEMENT OF THE OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT,
Etc., OF THE GARDEN MAGAZINE, published in accordance
with the Act of Congress of August 24,1912; Publishers, Doubleday,
Page & Co., Garden City, N. Y.; Editor and Managing Editor,
Leonard Barron, Garden City, N. Y.; Owners, Doubleday, Page &
Co., Garden City, N. Y.
This Sprayer is adapted for all Spraying purposes. It cannot be excelled for spraying
garden vegetables, plants, shrubbery, trees, etc., in fact, will spray anything in liquid
form, and is easily operated by man or boy.
Heavy 4 gallon galvanized steel tank, well
riveted to stand heavy pressure. Also made
entirely of brass. Tank 21 in. high, 7 in. di-
ameter. Automatic brass nozzle, throws long
distance fine mist or coarse spray, will not
clog and wastes no liquids. Pump is brass 2
in. diameter, with heavy brass casting. Han-
dle locks in pump head for carrying sprayer.
Adjustable strap for carrying sprayer over
shoulder.
At your Hardware or Seed Store. Ask for the
BANNER Sprayer. Don’t take a substitute.
If he hasn’t it, write us. Manufactured only
New York City Agents, J. M. THORBURN & CO., Seedsmen, 53 Barclay St.
Stockholders holding 1 per cent. or more of total amount of stock on
April 1, 1919; F. N. Doubleday, Garden City, N. Y.; Estate of W. H.
Page, Garden City, N.Y.; H. §. Houston, Garden City, N.Y.; S.A.
Everitt, Garden City, N. Y., A. W. Page, Garden City, N. Y.,
Russell Doubleday, Garden City, N. Y.; Nelson Doubleday, Garden
City, N. Y.; W. F. Etherington, New York City; Alice A. DeGraff,
Oyster Bay, N. Y. , :
Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders holding
1 per cent. or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securt-
ties: None.
(Signed) DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
By S. A. Everitt, Treasuger.
Sworn to and subscribed before me this 1st day of April, 1919.
(Signed) Frank O'Sullivan, Notary Public
Queens County, N. Y.
Certificate filed in Nassau County.
Commission Expires March 30, 1920
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
HAT constitutes
real value in Gar-
den Hose? What kinds
of Garden Hose are
bese to buy? How
long should Hose last?
There is much confu-
sion and misconcep-
tion on these points.
The fundamental
facts, briefiy stated,
are.
Garden Hose seldom wears out. It us-
ually dies and falls to pieces. To give
long service it must be built right, and
to insure that it zs built right the buyer
must choose a standard brand made and
guaranteed by a reliable house.
Garden Hose is of two kinds—sheeting
hose and moulded hose. Sheeting hose is
five, six or seven ply according to the
number of layers of strong rubberized
sheeting wrapped around a seamless
tube and finally enclosed in a rubber
casing or cover. Moulded hose is made
oy vulcanizing seamless tubes of rubber
with double braided jackets of tightly
twisted cotton. It is a heavier type
construction than sheeting hose which
is lighter and more flexible. Each var-
iety has its strong advocates. We de-
scribe on this page the three leading
brands on the American market, each
the leader in its class.
Bull Dog Hose
has seven plies of strong rubberized sheet-
ing, the highest grade tube of any hose
made and a tough all rubber cover that
wears like iron. It was the original multi-
ple construction garden hose and money
can not buy a better quality. It has been
on the market forty years and letters come
to us frequently telling of lengths in service
from fifteen to twenty years. BULL DOG
costs more than ordinary hose but it is the
Made in 25 ft. or 50 ft. lengths as de- best investment in the long run.
sired, each wrapped with paper like an
auto tire.
Good Luck Hose
GOOD LUCK hose is similar in construc-
tion to BULL DOG but is slightly lighter.
It has six plies and is strong enough to stand
high pressure and tough enough for hard
service. It is light and easily handled and
will wear for a long time.
Made in 25 ft. or 50 ft. lengths as de-
sired, each wrapped with paper like an
auto tire.
MILO
A corrugated moulded hose, the most popu-
lar brand in its class. Your dealer can cut
it to any desired length. If you prefer
moulded hose by all means specify MILO
for its high quality andsplendid construction.
Making The Garden Grow
Whichever brand you select ask your dealer for a not supply you with the booklet, we will mail you
copy of our Garden Manual, a professional hand- a copy of the Manual upon receipt of a 3c. stamp
book for the amateur gardener. If your regular and quote prices on either brand of hose for ship-
dealer does not carry these standard brands or can- ment from the factory.
BOSTON WOVEN HOSE AND RUBBER COMPANY
Largest and Oldest Makers of Garden Hose in the World
Manufacturers of the famous GOOD LUCK Jar Rubbers
156 PORTLAND STREET, CAMBRIDGE, MASS.
HOTOS ©)
BEST. usont MISHKIN,
L__ FOLEY, GEORG
; GES
S77 hee NITRO-F ERTILE
NITRO-FERTILE Hilt
WTR
LE | Ms BEN aed
makes
flowers
We won’t promise similar results for you
but really Nitro-Fertile contains the more im-
portant plant foods in such easily assimilable
form that the results some times seem
marvelous.
Then too—it is fed regularly every few
weeks throughout the growing season when
by old-fashioned methods the plants would
be starved.
Your dealer has it or should have it.
The Fertile Chemical Company
601 ELLASTONE BUILDING
CLEVELAND, O., - - U.S. A.
Trial? Of Course
Send 25c for a small 10 day
test sample.
USM
Tet
seomesoe
THE
PARDEN
MAGAZINE
JULY. 1919
= aS & ¢
BOS @ACY
aio =
CovER DEsIGN—HOLLYHOCKS - Frank Spradling
“In GREEN Orp GARDENS” <= = = = - = =|
Revisinc Our List or Harpy SHRUBS
E. I. Farrington
Photographs by the author
THROUGH THE GARDEN GaTE - Louise B. Wilder
Photograph by Arthur Eldredge :
SomE PERENNIAL BELLFLOWERS I HAvE TrIED
E. Herrick
Photographs by N. R. Graves and F. M. Good
Tur NEGLECT OF THE ABYSSINIAN PRIMROSE
W. C..Blasdale
Photographs by N. R. Graves
WELCOMING THE BIRDS TO THE GARDEN
Wm. E. Reed
Plan by the author j
Photographs by the author and National-Audubon
Society
Spray Mrxturres on A GALLON Basis
“F.W. Allen
JoysomME GARDENS FOR ScHoots Frances Duncan:
SuGccGEsTIons From OTHER PEOPLES’ GARDENS -
Photographs by E. I. Farrington
ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE NEW ERA - - - - -
AmoNnG OuR GARDEN NEIGHBORS - - - - -
Two ILLUSTRATIONS
Sweet Corn for Thanksgiving—Tomatoes Until After
Christmas—More About Dahlias—From the Other
Side—Conifers and Clay—Sowing Annuals Now for
Next Spring—Barberry and Wheat Rust.
USBRAKING- OR 9s) lle! Geos eee ee
Pruned Cherry Producing Hardy Buds—Long Cane
Grape Pruning—The War on Our Garden Seeds—
How to Grow Good Seeds—The War’s Effects on
Flower Lovers—Promising New Roses—Horticul-
tural Clubs That are Different—Vegetables That
Win Prizes.”
Some OLp Writincs Broucut To Lire
M. F. Warner
Fics in THE NortH - - - J. W. Chamberlin
STRANGE EXPERIENCES IN GOING TO THE WEST
A. M. Merrill
KEEPING DwarF TREES DwarF - JT. Sheward
THe Montu’s REMINDER - - - - - - = =
Maxine Two SHoots or ASPARAGUS GRow WHERE
ONE GREW BEFORE - - - - A.N. Hutt
SUPPORTING BEAN-POLES - --- A. Rutledge
LzoNARD Barron, Editor
Juty, 1919
PAGE
221
222
226
228
231
232
232
233
234
235
237
VOLUME XXIX, No. 6.
Published Monthly, 25c. a copy. Subscription, Two Dollars a Year.
For Canada, $2.35; Foreign Countries, $2.65.
COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
Cuycaco: Peoples Gas Bldg.
Los ANGELES: Van Nuys Bldg.
Boston: Tremont Bldg.
New York: 120 W. 32nd St.
F,. N. DOUBLEDAY, President S. A. EVERITT, Treasurer
ARTHUR W. PAGE
HERBERT S. HOUSTON,
Vice-Presidents Secretary
Entered as second-class matter at Garden City, New York,
under the Act of Congress, March 3, 1879
o> — e oS
ye a a as ee a SN
4,
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
—\OrSaed’ Yin] | | | \) \\\ woe
RUSSELL DOUBLEDAY,
5!
Jury, 1919
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 219
DREER’S
Mid-Summer Catalogue
offers a choice list of varieties, including
the best everbearing sorts, and gives direc-
tions for planting in order to raise a full
crop of Strawber:z:es next year; also offers
Celery and Cabbage Plants, Seasonable
Vegetable, Flower and Farm Seeds for
summer sowing. Also Potted Plants for
summer planting, Decorative Plants, etc.
“=
=
Write for a free copy and
kindly mention this publication
Henry A. Dreer
714-16 Chestnut Street
The New York Botanical Garden:
INSTRUCTION IN GARDENING
Practical instruction is offered in vegetable, flower
and fruit gardening, greenhouse and nursery prac-
tice, together with lectures, laboratory, field and
shop work in garden botany, zoology, pathology,
landscape design, soils, plant chemistry and related
subjects.
The curriculum is planned for the education of
any persons who would become trained gardeners or
fitted to be superintendents of estates or parks.
Students may be admitted at any time.
Circulars and other information will be mailed on application.
THE NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN
BRONX PARK, NEW YORK CITY
eee July the song birds disappear. They
seek protection in the dark woods, in the
secluded swamps while they molt their feathers.
They can be enticed into your gardens for the
remainder of the year if you will offer them food
and protection. Do you need any help to design
a bird garden?
WARREN B. MEIXNER, Landscape Architect, Ithaca, N.Y.
ANDORRA-GROWN
TREES
Shrubs and
Plants
OUR ability to supply trees,
shrubs and plants of the
highest quality is not curtailed
by the embargo against foreign
shipments. Get lists now for
August planting.
Andorra
Nurseries
Wm. Warner Harper, Prop.
Box 100
Chestnut Hill
Phila., Penna.
"You are cordially
invited to visit the
Andorra Nurseries
at any time.
, JOE ans VYSSH
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This Class Cables for $3300
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The construction is simple,
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erected complete, ready for
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SA'S
IOS NOI NS I INIT INO NOI
Don’t Sign a Treaty
With Your Plant Enemies!
There is no peace in your garden or lawn while these enemies are
free to destroy your plants. The prevalent high temperature of
the past winter has made it necessary for you to take extra pre-
caution with your plants this year. This high temperature with practically no severe weather, has given
your plant enemies opportunity to prepare for a great spring offensive. Will you be ready to meet them with
APHINE FUNGINE | VERMINE
The Recognized Standard Insecticide
Remedy for green, black, white fly, For rust, mildew, and blights on flowers, Will destroy any soil enemies attacking
thrips and soft stale. vegetables and tender plants. Toots, as angle worms, eels, and the like.
Put up in various sizes to meet the requirements of any garden or orchard. Ask your dealer.
Aphine Manufacturing Company, Madison, New Jersey
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
22 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
JULY,
— epic as BW
= S A FIFTY foot Skinner System Portable Irri-
gation Line will water 2500 square feet at
a time.
Not just dampen itin spots, mind you, or soak feet.
it in others; but water uniformly, without injury
The Skinner Irrigation Co.
219 Water Street
LS KINNER
Troy, Ohio
Pe
==, Water Your Garden This Way
to the smallest plants or packing of the soil.
Here is the ideal solution for your watering
worries. Equipment for acres as well as square
Write to-day. Lots of use for it this summer.
Do You Love Your Garden?
Plant Lil. Candidum (Madonna Lily) (Blooms
freely and gloriously in early summer). Masses
of pure white fragrant flowers on tall stems. Easy
to cultivate, HARDY. The bulbs arrive from
France in August. Will be
scarce this season. ORDER
NOW. We deliver POST-PAID
—firm plump bulbs.
3 12 100
Large Select: .$.80 $2.75 $15.00
Extra Monster .95 3.50 20.00
Do FOS plant SMALL bulbs, they give small
results. =
Japan Bamboo Stakes
(Last for years)
12 100
Green colored 2 ft. long $.40 $1.50
# Natural color 6“ “ 75 2.00
‘Extra Heavy poles for Dahlias, Tomatoes, etc.
$3.00
1.50 5.00
5 e 8 “ee a3 5.00
Our Fall bulb book, listing all French, Dutch, Iris and
Lily bulbs will be ready in July. Send for it.
H. H. BERGER & CO. 70 Warren St., N. Y.
< Bs
Strawberries De Luxe
The last word in Strawberry Hybridization. The wonder
‘ Strawberry of the century. Perfect flow-
ering variety. - The greatest producer
known. Pot grown plants. 12—$2.50,
25—$4.50, 50—$8.00, 100o—$r5.00. Illus-
tration one-fourth actual size.
Beal. Greatest producer under se-
vere conditions. The sensation of last
year. 25—$3.00, 50—$5.50, 10o—
$10.00.
Standard varieties such as Barrymore,
Marshall aand Sharpless, 100—$5.00,
YSTEM
Se
OF IRRIGATION.
Ht
The BRAND
PEONIES
Originated by
O. F. BRAND & SON
America’s Foremost
Hybridizers of the Peony
Every successful plant breeder
works with a certain fixed type in
view.
In breeding for new varieties of
peonies we have always selected in
the first place for beauty, but with
beauty we have demanded a good
stem, a strong robust plant, a profuse bloomer, and above all a variety that
comes good every year.
When you have a flower that comes up to all these qualifications you have
a masterpiece. You find these qualities in the following Brand varieties:
Whites:
Frances Willard and Elizabeth Barrett Browning.
Pinks:
Chestine Gowdy, Henry Avery, Judge Berry, Martha Bulloch, Mrs. A. G.
Ruggles, Phoebe Carey, Ruth Brand and William Penn.
Reds:
Brand’s Magnificent, Charles McKellip, Longfellow, Lora Dexhemer,
Mary Brand and Richard Carvel.
No collection of peonies is complete without the above list.
We not only carry a complete line of our own productions but also have
almost everything in the best of standard and newer sorts of all other growers.
An immense stock of the very choicest roots in all sizes for sale this season.
New catalogue now out. Send for it.
A grower of Peonies for 40 years.
A. M. BRAND Faribault, Minn.
I,000—$45.00. Circular on request. ~
5 WILLIAM M: HUNT & COMPANY
148 Chambers Street New York, N. Y.
Hyacinth, Tulip and Narcissus
bulbs are unusually scarce this
year; I consider myself singularly
fortunate in obtaining a quantity
which normally should be sufh-
cient to replenish the stocks of
my regular customers. But
please remember that while the
quantity I have ordered should
supply those who rely upon me
Your order must reach me before July 15
otherwise the varieties you desire may be exhausted be-
cause someone else has tastes similar to yours.
My Bulb Catalogue for 1919
is ready for mailing and will be sent to my regular customers
If you do not receive one will you kindly notify me, so that
the error may be corrected?
BERTRAND H. FARR
Wyomissing Nurseries Company
104 Garfield Ave. Wyomissing, Penna.
\
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
1919
Kevitt’s Jubilee—The New Black Strawberry |
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Revising Our List of Hardy Shrubs £1. rarrineton ©
The Disastrous Winter of 1917-1918 Had Many Practical Lessons for
Us, If We Would’ Only Use Our Eyes!
Plants that Withstood the Test Better than Some Commonly Grown
Many Old and Some New *
This is the third article in a series on ““The World’s Best for American Gardens.” The previous articles dealt with the best avatlabie trees
HEN a winter like that of a year ago
(1917-18) comes to the Northern states,
it imposes a severe test on the hardi-
ness of the shrubs commonly chosen
for the decoration of parks and home grounds.
It is true that the losses did not prove to be quite
so heavy as was expected, as many of the plants
which seemed to have been killed did eventually
revive. Yet the wisdom of doing something to
revise our list of hardy shrubs for common use
is evident. There are also other good reasons
besides this tendency to winter-kill. For one
thing the list of popular shrubs offered and
planted has been kept within too narrow limits.
Plants which were the best in their class years
ago might well be superseded by other and better
kinds of later introduction. There are plenty
such, but strangely enough some of the very best
shrubs adapted to northern sections of the coun-
try can hardly be obtained anywhere because
nurserymen have failed to propagate and ad-
vertise them. If you want proof of this gust
take the trouble to walk through the Arnold
Arboretum, near Boston, where thousands of
shrubs from foreign lands are being tested, and
where the adaptability of American shrubs to
the colder parts of the country is being tried out.
Perhaps the enforcement of Quarantine No. 37 of
the Federal Horticultural Board will eventually
result ina! Sreater appreciation of the native
Ameriean shrubs which it must be confessed
in sorrow have been sadly neglected in favor
of the kind of stock that the nurseries of Europe
could grow in quantity and quickly.
AS AN example consider our native Withe-
rod. (Viburnum cassinoides). How. seldom
is this seen in American gardens, or for that
matter in American parks! Yet it is one of the
most desirable of all shrubs, attractive all through
the summer, but is especially beautiful in the
fall when its berries come, for these berries change
in color from green to pink, and then to blue.
At certain times all three colors can be found on
the same plant, and even in the same cluster.
Of course anything here set down is not to be
taken as an argument against the use of good
plants from other lands if they are definitely
suited to American conditions. It would be a
great loss for instance if we should be deprived
of Viburnum Carlesii, from Korea, for few better
small shrubs can be included in our list... Al-
though not very showy, the delightful powerful
perfume of its flowers gives it a leading place
among the spring-blooming plants. It might
almost be called the Bush Arbutus, its fragrance
being very similar to that of the trailing plant
which New Englanders know as the Mayflower.
Another small Viburnun, a dwarf form of the
type plant which gives us the Snowball is V.
opulus nana, which ts being widely advertised,
but cannot receive such a whole-hearted endorse-
ment. ‘This little shrub’seldom grows more than
two feet high, and has dark green foliage, which
is retained throughout most of the year. Be-
cause of its hardiness it is being recommended
as a substitute for Box where the climate is too
severe for the latter. It has few of the good qual-
ities possessed by Box, however, and at best
makes a rather wide and straggling low hedge.
In this. connection something might be said
about the use of Evonymus radicans vegetus
for hedging purposes. If kept closely trimmed
it makes a really good substitute for Box. It
is thoroughly hardy and keeps its leaves in per-
fect condition throughout the year, although
ance.
they curl a little after the fashion of Rhododen-
drons during spells of severe cold.
ATW years ago a rosy»future was pre-
dicted for the Japanese Holly (Ilex crenata), a
very attractive shrub with glossy green léaves
which seemed to have the making of a perfect
hedge plant, notwithstanding a tendency. often
noted of the tips of the shrubs to winter-kill.
The low temperatures of the winter of 1917-18"
crushed the hopes and expectations of those who
had been favoring this Japanese immigrant which
did not stand the northern climate even as well
as California Privet—which is saying much!
After all, though, there is no great loss in being
deprived of I. crenata, because a native Ameri- -
can plant, Ilex glabra, the common Inkberry of
the woods, is quite as satisfactory in leaf appear-
One nurseryman who has been growing
it extensively in Massachusetts says that it is
preferable to the Japanese shrub. Its oval
evergreen leaves are somewhat similar in appear-
ance to those of Boxwood. Occasionally clipped,
this native plant has unlimited possibilities
on any soil not unusually dry.
ee Is hardly necessary to speak of the oes
mendous damage done to California Privet
hedges all through the Northern states during
that memorable winter. In many instances
hedges were killed to the ground. That was not
invariably an ‘unmixed blessing,’ for not a few
of these hedges are growing up in such a way as
to make them bushier and more symmetrical than
before. Still, the average man doesnt like ‘to
plant a shrub which is likely to be mutilated in
_ every severe winter. Another Privet (Ligustrum
Ibota) is much hardier and:is commonly, reéom-
mended for use north of the: middle and central
states. Regel’s Privet 1s ‘Sometimes ‘used, ,al-
though it makes quite a different appearance .«
from either California or Ibota Privet, haying a
much looser, spréading habit of growth. ‘Pro-
fessor Sargent, of the Arnold Arboretum, con-
siders the Amur or Amoor River Privet (Ligus-
trum amurense) the best of all the Privets for
hedge purposes in the colder parts of the country.
lt is very hardy, and can be kept trimmed so as
to produce as severe and formal an effect as
may be desired. Nurserymen sometimes list
what they call “a Southern form”’ of L. amurense,
but which is really L. sinense, a different and
much more tender plant. There is no good rea-
- son why the old Common or English Privet (L.
vulgare), should not be used for hedge making.
It is a fine hardy plant, and ought to be more
widely used. One of its varieties, foliosum, is
particularly desirable as a garden plant, especially
in the fall, keeping its green leaves very late, and
producing a large crop of berries.
The most generally desirable low hedge plant
that can be grown in the Northern states is prob-
ably the Japanese Barberry. “The Common Bar-
berry and the Purple-leafed Barberry might as
well be eliminated now as later. ‘The use of these
two plants is being decried and even prohibited in
many Western states because of their tendency to
spread the wheat rust. This fault is not shared
by the Japanese B. Thunbergii, although many
a hedge of this fine plant has been sacrificed by
ill-informed gardeners who did not realize that
the Japanese Barberry was not the undesirable
citizens. A dwarf form of this plant (under the
commercial name of Box-barberry) is now be-
ing offered as a substitute for the Evergreen
Box.
229
om,
<
ANEW hedge plant for the Northern central
states is Cotoneaster acutifolia, from north-
ern China. Pity there is no easily suggested “‘pop-
ular” name for this genus—it might help to get
it better known. The word means quince-like.
From Pliny’s pet name cotonea, the quince. Any-
body who tries to grow California Privet in the
North-central states makes a serious mistake.
A test lasting through several severe winters has
shown this sharp-leafed Cotoneaster» to be ab-
_solutely hardy and the few hedges already estab-
lished are a delight to the eye. The plants make
a dense growth and have dark green, glossy
leaves, not unlike those of Privet. At:least one
nurseryman is working hard to get up a’big stock
of plants to meet the surely coming demand for
Cotoneaster acutifolia. gg 4
Few of the shrubs introduced by,.E. H. Wil-
son from China have made ‘ax greater bid for
favor than-the Cotoneasters, of which eighteen
or twenty species have been found hardy in the
Northern states. Among the best species are
Cotoneaster multiflora calocarpa, C. hupehensis,
C. racemiflora soongarica, and C. faveolata.
The Cotoneasters are beautiful both in* flower
and in fruit and take on graceful shapes in the
garden without any cutting whatever.
hupehensis is perhaps the imost worthwhile
all-round flowering shrub among all the many
hundreds which Mr. Wilson has introduced.
B CAUSE so many Forsythias had their ”
buds killed a year ago, amateur gardeners
began to question the hardiness of these fine spring
flowering shrubs. It takes an unusually hard
winter to make the Forsythia suffer and even
when the plants are partly winter-killed, they
recover very quickly.. Although but.few flowers
were seen in the Arnold Arboretum in the spring
of 1918—the flower buds having been killed—
practically all the plants were in first class condi-
tion by the time fall.came. There are sections
of the country, though, where Forsythia does not
always seem to be at home, and where it 1s not
recommended by landscape gardeners. In some
‘parts of the country the. late blizzard of early
April this year caught the just expanding buds
of the. Golden Bells—an ever present possibility
it seems. : i
Even if it were necessaryto eliminate the For-
sythia, which fortunately it is not, there would
still be some excellent early flowering shrubs. —
Oné plant that: can be highly recommended is
the recently introduced yellow flowered Rosa
Hugonis, from ‘China. Classing it among the
Roses is misleading from a garden viewpoint, for
its proper place is in the shrub border, a very ro-
bust, strong growing plant. Although blooming
a little later than the Forsythia, it is covered with
its yellow blossoms very early in the season.
Indeed it has been known to flower while the
ground was covered with a late fall of snow.
Father Hugo’s Rose is indeed among the most
interesting and valuable of the recent hardy shrub
introductions. Growing in the Arnold Arbor-
etum, it excites more attention than any other
Rose and as it is being propagated by a few nur-
serymen it will doubtless attain wide popularity
very soon. ‘There is absolutely no doubt about
its hardiness.
pee native shrubs which flower very. early
and which will go through the hardest winters
without the slightest signs of injury are strangely
enough seldom seen in cultivated gardens.
They are the Buffalo-berry (Shepherdia argentea)
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Jury, 1919
THE ORANGE-RED AZALEA OF JAPAN
The flaming torch-like effect of the gorgeous orange-red flowers of
Rhododendron (or Azalea) Kaempferi, simply arrest attention where-
ever itis planted. Individual plants vary slightly in color and in time
of bloom, so that the effect is always startling
SOME REALLY HARDY SHRUBS THAT MAKE COLORFUL GARDEN PICTURES
<—A NEw AZALEA
One the most showy flow-
ering shrubs from Asia is the
Ponkhamm or Rose-lilac
Korean Azalea (Rhododen-
dron poukhanense)_flower-
ing inearly May. It grows
about three feet high, is quite
hardy at Boston and will
assuredly become well known
in a short time
THE NATIVE WITHE-ROD
(Below)
Surely this handsome na-
tive of the Eastern United
States is good enough for
any garden. It grows up to
twelve feet. Flowers white
in June; fruits fire pink, be-
coming dark blue. Of un-
questioned hardiness, and,
as the picture shows, of
quite attractive form
224
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Juuy, 1919
and the Leatherwood (Dirca palustris). _ Last
year the latter began to bloom in the Arboretum
on the 17th of April, somewhat earlier than usual.
Shepherdia, which was named after John Shep-
herd, an English botanist, is represented by
numerous species, and in this country is found
growing practically all the way from the Atlantic
to the Pacific. The Buffalo-berry is the most
decorative of the family, and is particularly
useful when strong, bold effects are wanted.
Although it will grow in the East, it thrives best
in the upper Mississippi Valley, where its berries
are often used in the making of jellies and jams.
Distinction is given the plant by its foliage, which
is light green above and silvery beneath.
The Leatherwood is a better plant for the
eastern part of the country. Its small yellow
flowers appear before the coming of the leaves,
and are followed by small black berries, which,
persist well into the winter. Dirca gets its com-
mon name of Leatherwood because of its tough
flexible branches, which can be doubled up in
hoops and almost tied into knots without break-
ing. Both the Buffalo-berry and the Leather-
wood will thrive in almost full shade.
N® PLANT puts on its summer dress earlier
than the new Chinese introduction Prin-
sepia sinensis, which has bright yellow flowers
about two-thirds of an inch in diameter. Flow-
ers and leaves come at the same time. Tests in
the Arnold Arboretum prove this to be a remark-
ably good plant for the Northern states. Its
hardiness has been demonstrated, and it seldom
fails to flower. It may prove to be an especially
good hedge plant, as its stems and branches are
armed with stout spines which give it as much
protective value as is possessed by the better
known Japanese Barberry. The drawbacks to
the wide dissemination of this plant are the facts
that it does not produce seed freely, that it is
not easily increased from cuttings, and is re-
sentful of transplanting.
Much had been expected of Corylopsis, a genus
which is allied to the Witch-hazels, and which
produces a profusion of flowers before the leaves
open, these flowers being a delicate canary yellow
in color and having. considerable fragrance.
Several species will survive an ordinary winter,
but they have their flower buds killed when the
temperature goes unusually low. One kind,
however, C. Gotoana, from Central Japan, has
proved exceptionally hardy and bids fair to be a
very important shrub for Northern gardens, even
in the most exposed situations.
Perhaps a good word should be said in passing
for the well known Japanese Magnolia stellata,
and the Chinese Magnolia conspicua, which have
demonstrated their ability to withstand the
coldest winters of New England without having
their flower buds injured.
Another shrub deserving much more atten-
tion than it has ever yet received is the Enkian-
thus, four Japanese species of which arouse as
much interest and comment as any plants grow-
ing in the foreign collection at the Arnold Arbor-
etum. The Enkianthus, in one form or another,
is occasionally catalogued, but might well be
planted in gardens everywhere except in sec-
tions where limestone soil is found. Like all
members of the Heath family, the Enkianthus
cannot endure lime. Clusters of drooping bell-
shaped flowers—dull red to white, according to
the species—deck the plant from top to bottom
late in the spring, and the flowers last a long time.
In the fall the foliage turns to scarlet crimson or
deep wine color, adding much to the beauty of
the garden late in the season.
It generally has been considered that the
Bladder Sennas (Colutea) are hardy in most of
the Northern states. They suffered severely,
however, during the winter of 1917-18. In most
cases the plants were not killed outright, but the
flower buds were destroyed and much of the wood
had to be cut out. This renovating process is
often needed, however, and more flowers are
produced when the plant grows up again.
NE lesson derived from the experiences of
that trying winter was that only a very
few of the English Hybrid Rhododendrons are
truly hardy in the Northern states of America.
Owing to this fact more attention should be given
the native and a few foreign species.. The little
known and comparatively dwarf species from the
South, which has been given the name of Rho-
dodendron carolinianum is a plant to be used
widely, both on large estates and in small gardens.
It blooms very early, the flowers are attractive,
and its general habit is good.
The Rhododendron Boule de Neige, a hybrid
of one of the Caucasus species, has proved itself an
ironclad plant for the United States. It is one
of the most satisfactory of white flowered Rho-
dodendrons, especially for smaller places, never
growing large, and blooming when very small.
Another immigrant, and a true Caucasian species,
is Rhododendron Smirnowi, with pink flowers
which is also particularly to be recommended
because it is absolutely proof against the lace-
winged fly, owing to a peculiar felt-like covering
on the under part of the leaf.
The Asiatic and North American Azaleas are
worthy of much wider recognition in all places
where they can be grown, which means locali-
ties having a soil free from lime. The beautiful
Azalea Kaempferi, which Professor Sargent in-
troduced, occasionally loses many of its flower
buds, but the Azalea known as Rhododendron
japonicum, also brought here by Professor Sar-
gent, goes through ‘the hardest winters wholly
uninjured. This is found to be a splendid ad-
dition to our garden shrubs. It is brilliant
in color, very free flowering, and keeps its blos-
soms for a long time.
Most showy of all the Azaleas is the native
R. calendulaceum, from the mountains of North
Carolina and Tennessee. No American shrub
can be set ahead of this Azalea in the matter of
sheer beauty. It has shown itself fully able to
resist the most severe winter weather of New
England, and is a plant worthy of extensive use.
Another native’ is Azalea arborescens, which
grows native in the mountain regions from Penn-
sylvania south, and is an excellent garden sub-
ject. Although less showy than some of the yel-
low flowered Azaleas, it is an exceedingly beau-
tiful shrub having very fragrant pure white blos-
soms. It blooms later than calendulaceum and
ahead of the Clammy Azalea or Swamp Honey-
suckle (R. viscosum), which inhabits the swamps
of the Eastern states, and marches at the rear of
the Azalea procession.
The only reason why these Azaleas are not more
widely known is because few nurserymen offer
them for sale. The only successful way to pro-
pagate them is by seeds, a work requiring consid-
erable time and labor. The Arnold Arboretum
though, has demonstrated the unusual value of
these plants, and probably a popular demand
for them will result in their wider propagation.
ig IS a matter of regret that the Buddleias
(Butterfly-bush or Summer Lilac) have not
shown themselves hardier in the Northern states.
If banked up with earth and cut back in the man-
ner advised for Roses, which is the best treatment
to give them, they will usually go through a
winter except in exposed places. Many times,
though, they are killed outright to a very large
extent when a particularly severe winter comes
along, especially if the ground is not heavily
covered with snow. As far north as New York
City the Buddleias can be depended upon; be-
yond that wintering them is a gamble. In spite
of that fact, there is no reason why they shouldn’t
be grown in the garden because they are very
‘be overlooked.
easily started from seeds, and will- commonly
flower the first season. They are also grown
with great ease from cuttings.
The Honeysuckle family is a very large one
and includes plants which vary greatly in size
and habits. Some of the Bush-honeysuckles
are among the most valuable plants, either
North or South. Lonicera Korolkovii amoena
is the most beautiful shrub to be found in the
Arnold Arboretum collection late in the spring. —
Even when not in bloom it is a pretty plant,
its gray-green leaves being unmatched by any-
thing else that grows. In the morning when
covered with dew, the effect produced by this
plant is marvelous. The flowers are light pink,
and the combination is exquisite. Here is a true
aristocrat among garden shrubs. Lonicera Ko-:
rolkovii in itself is an excellent plant, and so is L.
Maackii, which produces creamy-white flowers
in great profusion, the blossoms being followed by
dark red berries. Of course the common Fragrant
Bush-honeysuckle (L. fragrantissima), is not to:
It is a reliable shrub, and will
keep its leaves nearly all winter if given a shel-
tered position. Various Tartarian Honeysuckles
are also desirable, both for their little pink and
white flowers and for the red or yellow berries
which add to their charm in Jate summer. For
brilliant color in August plant L. Morrowii for it
produces great quantities of bright red fruits.
lt was thought for several years that an evergreen
climbing Honeysuckle, hardy in the Northern
states had been obtained from China in L. Hen-
ryi. It thrived well in the Arnold Arboretum
until the big test winter when it was cut to the:
ground, but the roots came through all right.
A OBRUE bound to take an important place
in our gardens when it becomes better
known is Neillia sinensis, which belongs to a
genus of the Rose family, and is one of the hand-
somest shrubs brought here from China. The
red-brown bark separating into scales reminds.
one of the native Ninebark, to which it is allied.
The flowers are clear pink, bell-shaped, and
nearly half an inch long, borne in many flowered
racemes, very graceful and artistic.
Fall and winter color in the garden offers an
interesting field for the progressive gardener
and there are many hardy shrubs that lend
themselves to the scheme, several species of
Evonymus for instance. The Burning-bush is
well known, of course, for its warm autumn color,.
but other kinds are even better for a fall display
because they carry great quantities of fruit,
consisting of pinkish capsules which open and.
disclose red berries hanging by slender threads.
Perhaps Evonymus Bungeanus is the best of all,
but it is no more showy than E. yeddoensis, of
more recent introduction, and a wonderfully
beautiful plant inthe autumn. People who plant
these will have a revelation as to the value of
decorative plants for beautifying the garden late:
in the season.
ERHAPS the best known shrub _ bearing
persistent red berries is Ilex verticillata, or
Black Alder, a thoroughly hardy native plant..
Another almost equally valuable plant, with red
fruit, is Aronia arbutifolia, the so-called Choke-
berry of some sections, extremely useful for
roadside planting. Aronia nigra, having black
berries, looks well when planted with it. This:
combination has been used extensively along the
parkway in Boston and Jamaica Plain, and the
results are excellent. In many catalogues the:
Aronias will be found under the name of Pyrus.
Speaking of fall color we must not forget the.
Indian Currant or Coral-berry (Symphoricarpos:
vulgaris) which never grows tall, and which is:
made beautiful by its long, slender stems, set
with small pink berries, that last long, and against
a background of snow look like so many jewels.
Jury, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 225
Dividing the ornamental part of grounds
from the purely utilitarian fields of growing
crops is here seized upon as an opportunity
to add a note of emphasis. The well
made stone wall is surmounted with a ce-
ment coping and a connecting gateway is
built of large, smooth stones, with a wooden
“tori” at the top. The swinging gate
with heavy iron hinges is painted white
COMBINING Two FASCINATING FEATURES
A GROWING EDGE FOR A POOL
A circular bed of “myrtle” (Vinca minor)
is used to edge the formal pool and the effect
is highly pleasing. With a gravel walk the
green border is much more restful to the eye
than a brick or cement coping would be, and is
easier to care for than a narrow circle of grass.
The little Evonymus Kewensis and Pachysan-
dra are other evergreen plants which might
be used in a somewhat similar way
The combination of a rock garden and a water-lily pool presents unlimited possibilities in the right kind of situation. Water and
rock are closely associated in one’s mind. The rippling rill falling into a still lagoon is a natural accompaniment of rocky ledges. A
very effective use of Japanese Iris has been made on the border, while Astilbe and various Ferns are planted among the rocks above the pool
233
ANNOUNCEMENT OF PHE NEW ERA
T HAS been the privilege of THE GARDEN MaGazZINE
to have served garden makers and flower lovers through a
period of almost fifteen years, the first number having
been issued in February, 1905. The twenty-ninth vol-
ume therefore ends with this number. During this
decade and a half great changes have taken place in gardening
in America; for in the beginning there was in this country
nothing like even a wide and general acquaintance with gar-
dens, nor was there any adequate appreciation of the materials
that go into the creation of such gardens as we find all around
us, to-day. There were no garden clubs, and the fanciers of
particular groups of flowers, now represented in various organi-
zations and societies, were not existent.
Hence the first great need then and therefore the first demand
for service, was along elementary lines; explaining the routine
of garden practice and teaching the first principles of the gar-
dener’s craft. THE GarDEN MaGazine was “the logical
working out of the growing interest inthe garden . . . asa
delight and pursuit for the busy people in the world who found
a new fascination in the things of the soil,” to quote from the
first announcement.
Following this there came gradually to the magazine the
broader opportunities; the meeting of special demands; the
leading into ever new and ever widening fields; the record of
achievements, growing from only small and humble beginnings
here and there, to nation-wide organizations, societies, and clubs,
of far reaching influence and importance. Each season has
marked a perceptible advance, each year a considerable one,
each five an inspiring progress.
And now, following the stern discipline and severe schooling
of the years of war, an altogether new era of hitherto uncon-
ceived richness is opening to the gardens and gardeners of Amer-
ica. During the great war all our thoughts and energies were
of course concentrated upon coaxing from theearth her maximum
increase of altogether food-producing plants, and there was
literally no time, no strength—and no land!—for any other
consideration. We made gardens indeed, millions and millions
of them—more gardens than were ever before dreamed of—
but we made them grimly, so to speak; as we made munitions, —
and submarine chasers, and guns. It was do or die.
We made something more however; something greater than
the gardens, though largely a by-product of our industry therein.
We made Real Gardeners!—legions of them. Reluctant and
unhappy novices though they were, many of them, in the be-
ginning, they have grown under the necessity of war into
enthusiastic master craftsmen, who vie with each other in bear-
ing witness that their gain is immeasurably greater than any
efforts they have put forth. For, when a garden maker is trans-
formed into a Real Gardener unsuspected worlds open to his
delighted eyes, and the springs of a living joy forever refresh his
spirit through all the arid places.
So now we have a nation, we may almost say, of Real Gar-
deners; and a land ready and waiting for their skill, and for the
energy and the enthusiasm with which they find themselves
charged for the happy task of its development. The outlook
and the promise could not be brighter!
EGINNING with its thirtieth volume, next month, THE
GarRDEN MacazineE will adopt certain changes of character
and presentation that will enable it adequately to fit this new
era. Among the innovations will be a new and more convenient
size, and an increase of sixty per cent. in the number of text
pages; and the pictorial features of garden making will receive
such attention as has never before been accorded them by any
magazine. Many new writers will be introduced, the greatest
authorities’ having been secured to contribute to its pages
articles on their respective specialties.
It is not to be assumed that old and valuable features are to
receive less care and attention than heretofore, however. On
the contrary, the aim will be to develop even further THE
GarRDEN MaGazine’s practical value to people who live with
their gardens; who look for ever increasing opportunity and
occasion for greater enjoyment of their own particular out-
doors; who like to grow flowers and trees and shrubs for the
pure pleasure of it; and who desire their own supply of superla-
tive variety and quality in vegetables and fruits.
234
To the eid that this high standard shall be maintained, it is
proposed to keep the readers of the magazine in close touch
with current activities everywhere that affect the gardener and
his craft. And as an indication of what is contemplated, the
Editors announce the following features relating to the imme-
diate future. Other equally interesting items later!
A Hunter in the Wilderness
R. ERNEST H. WILSON, of the Arnold Arboretum,
who has but recently returned from Korea and will write
exclusively for THE GarpeEN Macazine, has spent thirteen
years out of seventeen searching the Far East for new plants.
He has the distinction of having introduced into cultivation a
greater number of new things than any other plant collector
in the world ever did. The Regal Lily, the Davidia with its
romantic story bordering on disaster, the wonderful double
flowering Cherries of Japan, several Clematis, and a multitude
of bush Honeysuckles—all these are to Mr. Wilson’s credit.
His energies are now devoted to the interest of American
gardens, in which he has a lively faith and greatest hopes for the
future. The articles by Mr. Wilson previously published in
THe GarpDEN Macazine were later issued in book form under
the title of “Aristocrats of the Garden.”
The World’s Authority on Iris
R. W. R. DYKES, of Godalming, England, will contribute
noteworthy material on his favorite hobby, the Iris. Mr.
Dykes is the author of the superbly illustrated monograph,
“The Genus Iris,” and also of a smaller ‘‘Handbook of Iris,”
and is recognized as the world authority on this magnificent
family of garden plants. On his shoulders fell the mantle of
the late Sir Michael Foster, pioneer hybridist in the Iris family;
and he has carried on to its logical conclusions the great work
of that famous man.
The Iris is to-day one of the most fascinating and alluring
flowers in the American hardy garden, and we are particularly
fortunate in securing the cooperation of so great an authority. ©
A Garden Radical of His Time
M:®: WILLIAM ROBINSON may be called the most illus-
trious gardener of modern times since it was he who,
single handed, revolutionized the entire stiff Victorian concep-
tion of gardening, and substituted therefor the modern grace-
ful and naturalistic treatment of grounds! Very few people
realize to how great an extent the world-wide modern ideas of
gardening have grown up around the teachings and practices
of this one man. Beginning as a practical gardener, he saw,
with the true instinct for beauty, the disastrous results in gar-_
dens of the artificial attitude of that era, and early began: his
efforts to correct these by preaching the gospel of the use of
plants in free growth in place of the colored stones and tiles laid
in geometric formation which were everywhere popular. He.
travelled far, and although it is known to very few people, in
his early days visited America. He was the founder of The
Garden and Gardening Illustrated, two of England’s most success-
ful gardening papers. t satis
Tue Garpen Macazine will publish shortly an authorized |
account of William Robinson and his work, accompanied by
photographs taken in his gardens at Gravetye, England and
dedicated to the American public by Mr. Robinson.
An Artist in Garden Design’
ISS GRACE TABOR, a practical landscape architect of ex-
perience, whose writings are familiar to all who have
anything to do with American gardens, has been added to the
staff of THe GarpEN MacazineE .as associate editor. Miss
Tabor began horticultural study in the Arnold Arboretum
and worked directly under the supervision of Professor J. G.
Jack and the late Jackson Dawson. A painter as well, she will
bring to Tue GARDEN MacazineE a spirit of interpretative delight
in the making of gardens. : Sys
Miss Tabor has but recently closed an extensive tour inthe
interest of the National War Garden Commission, during which
she visited the important centres of the country’s intensive
gardening enterprises.
Sweet Corn for Thanksgiving—To my mind,
sweet corn never tastes quite so good as it does on
Thanksgiving Day. Not even the tender grains
that you relish so much early in the season, rival
in delicate flavor those that have been sweetened
and mellowed by two or three frosts and a flurry
of snow. Five years ago we took a chance on a
late season and planted Country Gentleman corn
on the fifth of August. The late season didn’t
materialize and frost came October fifteenth.
The ears were nearly ready to pull but the
frost ruined them—so we thought. ‘The leaves
of the corn were shrivelled and “burnt” by the
frost and we naturally supposed that the ears were
also spoilt. Two or three more frosts and a
light snow came but we had no heavy freezes
(Ours is the latitude of Philadelphia). A few
days before Thanksgiving we went through our
belated corn field. We chanced to look at some
of the ears. They seemed as good as ever and
the grains were plump and pearly, so we pulled
off a couple of dozen ears and took them home.
Everyone was surprised to see sweet corn on the
A convenient and easily adjusted flower holder for exhibitions, seen at the Massachusetts Horticultural Society’s shows.
Readers Interchangesof Experiences J
Blobs 3e ond Meese _seent
the stalks they do not wilt or deteriorate in the
least. We bring in tomato vines in the same way
and let the tomatoes ripen in the cellar. Thus
we have another fresh vegetable for our Thanks-
giving dinner. Perhaps the novelty of being
out of season adds some imaginary zest to
Thanksgiving sweet corn as well as to Christmas
strawberries. However, the quality of the sweet
corn is real. It is toothsome and delicious,
sweet andtender. Jack Frost seems to add some
new taste or bring out the hidden flavors in the
corn that he is allowed to touch. Yes—Country
Gentleman corn on Thanksgiving Day is good.
Ask any one who eats it.—R. E. Allen, Morgan-
town, W. Va.
It is rigid
and firm yet light and compact
table that evening but the corn didn’t last long.
The next day we went to the field and pulled a
load of the best ears. Most of that load was
distributed among our friends but we sold 27
dozen ears at 50 cents a dozen. Sweet corn was
a big feature at our Thanksgiving dinner. We
had it three different ways, just to make the
most of the novelty.
Since then, for every Thanksgiving, early and
late, we have had sweet corn for dinner. ‘Twice
we have had to bring,the corn in, stalks and all,
a week before Turkey day in order to save it
from a heavy freeze. By leaving the ears on
Tomatoes Until After Xmas.—About the
middle of October when a frost might be ex-
pected I pulled up all my tomato plants allowing
some soil to remain on the roots. I then sus-
pended them upside down to the rafters of our
garage close to a southern window where the sun
shown most of theday. Asthe winter was rather
mild the garage which is unheated remained at a
fairly uniformtemperature. Thetomatoesripened
slowly, but their flavor was delicious and the ex
periment was well worth while. We enjoyed
fresh tomatoes in profusion until way after
Christmas.—Christine G. Conover, V ynnewood, Pa.
235
More About Dahlias——In the open column,
May issue, I read an interesting communication
from Mr. John W. Chamberlain of New York
as to the Dahlias failing to bloom due to the
attacks of the Tarnished Plant Bug. I can sym-
pathize with Mr. Chamberlain for the experience
I have had the past two years agrees with his.
I have tried spraying with nicotine and fish oil
soap with but little success. I suppose if spraying
were done every day it would kill the insects but
it would make a mess of the plants. The bugs
being juice suckers will not be affected by poisons
that will kill leaf eating insects. It’s almost
impossible to catch them or get the spray on
them as they are very wary and quick as a flash
to fly or hide on the under sides of leaves. They
sting every bud that forms, blighting it so that
no bloom results. The Tarnished Plant Bug
attacks strawberries and many other things,
Roses for one; it would bea great thing to find out
how to combat the pests successfully and I hope
some one of your readers can give a practical sug-
gestion.—S. S. Webber, Charlestown, N. H.
From the Other Side——M. G. Kains, in April
issue, says many good things under the title
“Fruits Just for Fun” but when he tells of the
advantages of raspberries and _ blackberries
planted along property lines because they will be
“out of the way and gather part of their food from
the neighbor’s land” he leaves consideration for
“the neighbor” out of the question. I have been
the neighbor for a good many years and I sincerely
hope no one who reads the article written by Mr.
Kains will feel impelled to follow his advice in-
sofar as it pertains to this particular method of
procedure. If he is writing of his own practice,
and not theorizing, the worst I could wish him
would be that he had the neighbor’s property near
the line to care for. A dividing fence, built on
my land rather than exactly on the line, J use as a
support for ornamental vines, with a bed of old-
fashioned shrubs and flowers at the base. . This
row is about 100 feet long, the other side of the
fence is devoted to berry bushes which are out
of my neighbor’s way and gather their living
largely from my land. So far I have no kick to
make but every time I try to do a bit of work-with
my vines or plants I go into the house with torn
and bleeding hands, smarting with pain, and in
anything but a Christian or even ladylike mood.
I do not kick. I frankly cuss. The | berry
bushes will outgrow any other sort of vine as to
the above-ground part and in their search for food
the roots come many feet mto my lawn and
sprouts crop up everywhere. The advice sounds
good to the fellow who wants to plant the bushes
I have no doubt but, believe me, it never will to
the “‘neighbor” who has the slightest experience
on the other side of the fence. If the circulation
of THe GarpEN MacazineE were largely among
farmers where fence-rows or unfenced lines might
be devoted to berry bushes with land to spare
and the “neighbor” could pick the berries that
wandered over to his side it would be different,
but it is probable that at least half the readers
of the magazine are town people and for them I
take up the defense against such practice—with
due apology to Mr. Kains.—£va Ryman-Gaillard,
Pa.
Conifers and Clay.—E xperience amply proves
that a considerable number of the coniferous
evergreens will thrive in heavy clay though these
trees are naturally at home in sandy and gravelly
soils. Our so called Red Cedar, Juniperus vir-
giniana, transplanted from the light soils of the
Dakota Badlands to the heavy clay of the Red
River Valley ‘did thrive exceedingly well, in fact,
with a more abundant supply of water, trees
236
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
moved to the Valley outgrew those left behind
among the sage brush. The dwarf mountain,
Pinus montana, generally associated with rock
mountain sides, grows thriftily in heavy soil
around Fargo, N. D. This tree may well be
called one of the hardiest of evergreens since it
holds its own out on the open prairies. Given
moisture enough, and grown in heavy soil,
the American arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis,
will make a compact clipped hedge, but a lack of
water makes it winter kill badly. Grown as a
tree it endures more drought apparently but a
lack of moisture makes its growth rather sparce
and open and of little beauty. The white Spruce,
Picea canadensis and the Colorado blue Spruce.
Picea pungens, both thrive in clay soil. Both
are drought resisters. The intensity of the blue
of Picea pungens varies greatly in different in-
dividuals and it is quite possible to have a fairly
large planting of these trees with the color a
good green throughout. The Norway Spruce
will also do well in clay soils but it cannot endure
the dry winds of the prairies. Thrifty specimens
grown in the protection of a large planting of de-
ciduous trees failed completely when set out ex-
posed to the prairie winds. The common Juni-
per, Juniperus communis will also grow in clay.
It has landscape value when grown on a hillside
or as a ground cover among’ taller evergreens.
The Jack Pine and the bull Pine also thrive in
clay but their landscape value is so small that the
average planter will have little occasion to use
them. From a rather lengthy experience with
the foregoing and a lesser experience with others,
the writer is of the opinion that almost any coni-
ferous evergreen can be grown in stiff clay pro-
vided the soil is properly prepared. The soil
must be leavened. Sand is a poor expedient to
accomplish this. Humus is the thing, it is as
yeast to the soil. Well rotted strawy manure
is often the most available form of humus. Fresh
manure is of no value since it is not plant food but
the leavening effect of decayed vegetable matter
that we seek for; be it remembered many of the
coniferous evergreens grow on sterile soils. Thus
some form of humus worked abundantly and
thoroughly into the soil makes the heaviest clay
fit-for the roots of most of our evergreens. Clay
therefore is no barrier to a gratification of one’s
love for evergreens. The writer’s experience
convinces him that where a heavy clay soil is
concerned, such as is found in a large part of the
Red River Valley, the more thorough and deeper
the preparation of the soil, the more thrifty the
subsequent growth of the tree will be.—C. L.
Meller, Fargo, N. D.
Sowing Annuals Now for Next Spring.—It seems
a pity more gardeners, at least the very busy
ones, do not avail themselves of the advantage
that may be gained by sowing seed in late sum-
mer for spring bloom: There are quite a good
many annuals whose young seedlings will survive
a winter unprotected. I have never seen a com-
plete list, but have experimented with several.
My greatest success has been with the blue
Cornflower (Centaurea Cyanus). For several
years, I have sowed this on August 22d. It
happens to be an anniversary which I celebrate
florally, linking the day with pleasant prospects.
The garden of Mrs. John M. Beckley, Rochester, N. Y., is on a plot ninety feet wide of which forty
HERE 1S MAKING A GREAT DEAL OUT OF A VERY LITTLE
JuLty, 1919
One year the row of seventy-five feet of corn
flowers which made a blooming hedge in May
and June yielded such quantities of flowers, I
disposed of them to a florist in a neighboring city.
I cut and shipped twice a week. It required
about four hours to cut and bunch the blossoms
when the row was at its best. In spite of all this
cutting, seed enough formed and sowed itself
to give many volunteer plants next year. That
part of the garden is now planted to vegetables,
but stray cornflowers appear among the corn.—
A. H. Botsford, Edgemoor, Del.
Barberry and Wheat Rust——A vigorous cam-
paign is being carried on to prevent spread-
ing of the rust which in the past two years has
destroyed many millions of bushels of wheat. It
is a well established fact that the wheat rust is
harbored by the common and purple-leafed Bar-
berries. Accordingly, the present campaign
calls for the extermination of these plants in all
sections where wheat, rye, oats, and barley are
grown. Now these Barberries can be given up
without serious loss, but it is highly important
that the fact be made known that the Japanese
Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii, is not among the
varieties which endanger the wheat crop. ‘There
are many gardeners who class all Barberries to-
gether, and consider it necessary to pull up and
destroy their Japanese Barberry hedges. This
imported Barberry is undoubtedly one of the best
hedge plants for suburban plots, and it would be
no less than a disaster if, through ignorance, large
numbers of these plants should be needlessly
_ sacrificed.—E. I. F.
feet is occupied by a garage, yet here are flowers from spring till fall and with no gardener to help.
Climbing American Beauty Rose is on the arbor. Larkspur and other perennials are in the border
—Pruned Cherry
Produces Hardy
Buds”
PREVENTING winter
killing of blossom-buds
on cherry trees by pruning
is discussed in a recent ex-
periment in the famous Door county orchards
of Wisconsin.
The modified-leader type of tree, which has
been generally adopted by cherry growers instead
of the open-centre type, has been found to have a
less dense top after it reaches bearing age. The
tree known as the modified-leader type is pruned
to a leader and a few branches for two or three
seasons and then the leader is cut back. It has
shorter branches and more spurs, and the work
on the Door county trees shows that blossom
buds occur in larger numbers on spurs and
branches less than 12 to 14 inches long. The
special advantage of a larger number of spurs is
that buds on spurs are hardier than those on
longer branches.
Other advantages of pruning cherry trees with
a view to obtaining maximum fruiting area with
ease of harvesting are pointed out in the bulletin,
“Pruning Cherry Trees,” published by the Wis-
consin Experiment station.
—Long Cane O8 SERVATIONS
Grape f made of grape trel-
Pruning lises and arbors in Ohio
show that the old “spur”
system of pruning is general. All of the shoots of
the previous season’s growth are cut back to two
or three buds. “A change to the ‘long cane’
system of pruning with just enough spurs for re-
newal of the fruiting wood each year has resulted
in greatly increased yield of fruit, larger cluster,
less old wood on the trellises, and ease of training
and caring for the vines,” says the Ohio State Ex-
periment station.
In changing from the spur system to the long
cane system it is often advisable to make the
change in two years rather than all the first year.
Begin at the ground and work out on the old wood
to the first good canes of the previous season’s
growth, selecting from two to four of these, then
remove all of the old wood beyond these canes.
In addition to the canes one good spur near the
base of each cane will be left. This spur will then
form the wood to be used for bearing wood the
succeeding year. After the change has been
made, each season’s pruning consists simply in
removing the canes which bore the fruit the
previous year and the selection of the best canes
from the two or three which grew from each spur
for bearing canes the next year.
7
—The War
and our
Garden Seeds”’
ONE of our basic agri-
cultural industries
that has undergonemany
changes influenced by
the war, says Separate 775 of the Department of
Agriculture, is the seed industry. Although the
detailed changes can not yet be definitely an-
alyzed, one of the larger results already apparent
is that this country will tend to become more self
sustaining in the supply of seeds. Partly be-
cause of destroyed sources and transportation
facilities, and partly because of a great increase
in the domestic demand, “the production of vege-
table seed in the United States has been revolu-
tionized by the war.” In the case of many of
these seeds the country has changed from an
importer to an exporter, new, favorable but pre-
viously untried sections having been developed
to meet the situation. Another interesting and
generally desirable tendency has been that of
many seedsmen “‘to reduce the number of varie-
ties of vegetable seeds handled by them, to mini-
mize the number of so-called novelties, and to
emphasize the standard varieties.” As a reflec-
tion of the general trend toward economy and
standardization brought about by war exigencies,
' Effects on
this is a development that can well be continued,
with of course a continuation of legitimate inter-
est and activity in the production and dissemina-
tion of occasional novelties of real and outstand-
ing merit.
\
HE bulletin § then
takes up in detail the
conditions that affect
i the production of seed
in the case of a large number of special crops, in-
corporating many practical hints and directions for
seed treatment. Asparagus seed is likely to shrivel
if picked before fully ripe; smaller seeds generally
make much weaker plants; beans should be saved
only from perfectly healthy pods and shelled by
hand, or be hand picked, discarding all that are
even slightly discolored: black rot and other dis-
eases may ie transmitted on the seed of beets
which also cross readily and have to be protected
from the pollen of other varieties grown nearby;
and of lettuce some varieties are more susceptible
to the influence of summer conditions, which
induce them to shoot to seed rather than to form
a head of leaves. Aster, “the yellows disease
reduces seed production very much, but the seed
do not transmit the disease.” On the other hand,
Hollyhock rust may be carried in the seed, though
it is destructive to all parts of the plant. Simi-
larly because Dahlias are usually planted late in
order to get better flowers, the best returns in
the form of seed production are often prevented
by the injuring of the immature seed heads by
early frosts. The question of the “mixing” of
different cucurbits is settled in this concise fash-
ion: ““The many forms of squash belong to two
species. . . . Lhe two kinds do not inter-
cross, but the varieties of either will mix readily
with other varieties of the same species. The
squashes and pumpkins do not mix with melons,
cucumbers, etc., even when grown close to-
gether.”
—How to
Grow Good Seeds”?
—The War’s RKVERY now and tnen
our English cousins
give us new proof of their
wonderful resistance to
and resiliency under the weight of crushing bur-
dens and obstacles. Take such an activity as
Carnation growing and interest thereim—one
would hardly expect it to be able to survive four
years of wartime hardships such as England has
passed through. Yet there comes to hand the
1919 Yearbook of the British Carnation Society
(formerly the Perpetual Flowering Carnation
Society), with 64 pages of interesting records and
discussions, a number of good halftone illustra-
tions, and abundant testimony that Carnation
lovers while at war have not lost their interest in
their chosen flower. On the contrary, with only
a slight reduction in membership, an actual in-
creased cash balance (due, it is true, largely
to wartime economy), the registration of fourteen
new seedlings, and participation in June, 1918, in
the Floral Fair held in behalf of the British Am-
bulance Funds, the Carnation Society was able
through the energy of its members and the success
of its stall to donate more than £224 to this cause
at the end of the week.
Flower Lovers”
—Promising
New Roses’”’
UNDER the uninspir-
ing name of W. S.
18, Dr. W. Van Fleet de-
scribes in a recent issue
of the Journal of Heredity a new Rose seedling
which he calls “a most promising new hardy
pillar or low-climbing Rose of composite parent-
237
age.” Just what this new-
comer offers will be ap-
preciated by Rose lovers
upon reading Dr. Van
Fleet’s statement that
it is “a result of apply-
ing pollen of a vigorous
hybrid between the new
Chinese Rosa Soulieana and R. setigera, the
wild Michigan or Prairie Rose, to the stigmas
of an unusually hardy seedling of R. wichuraiana
that had the Tea Rose Devoniensis as its pollen
parent.” As he observes, all other seedlings of
this crossing carry a bit of the characteristic pink
of R. setigera, but this one bears blooms two
inches or more across of pure white against which
the prominent yellow stamens make an attractive
contrast. These are borne in graceful clusters
over the whole plant, being succeeded by deep red
-fruits that persist with little or no change in color
all winter. The blooming season in Washington,
D. C., ts early June, and although the plant under
observation has not yet attained full growth, it
promises to attain a height of ten feet or more in
favorable situations, offering more, apparently,
as a tall bush or pillar Rose for an open location
than as a porch or pergola climber. It appears
sufficiently vigorous and stout in habit to call for
no support and but little pruning. On top of
this its proven hardiness and apparent resistance
to all the foliage and cane diseases that attack
the Rose species make it a true “find.” Dr.
Van Fleet divides the responsibility for the com-
posite excellence of the seedling quite equally
among its parents, Rosa setigera having appar-
ently contributed the important trait of hardi-
ness, R. Soulieana, the habit, foliage and abund-
ance of bloom, and R. wichuraiana and Devon-
iensis (R. odorata) the “size, substance and finish
of the individual flowers.”
—Horticultural GARDEN club in
iar Are the larger sense,
from which much can
well be expected, is that
of Takoma Park, D. C., of which more than half
the 140 members are scientists and experts of the
U. S. Department of Agriculture and therefore,
presumably, in constant touch with, if not the
ersonification of, the latest and best knowledge.
he organization was formed to promote vege-
table gardening, flower growing and the beauti-
fication of home grounds, together with the
support of broader movements for civic improve-
ment by means of planting. It holds regular,
educational meetings, buys seeds, fertilizers and
other equipment for its members on a codpera-
tive basis, and offers prizes for horticultural
achievements. During the 1919 season twenty-
three such prizes, including two loving cups,
eleven gold and silver medals, and a savings
bank account will be awarded.
HE Massachusetts
Horticultural Society
recently made its first
; award for an improved
variety of sweet corn by presenting a medal to
Mr. Frederick S. DeLue, a Boston oculist who has
originated the variety Golden Giant. This is
the result of some seventeen years of investiga-
tion, study and practical breeding and selection.
Not with a view to making an “odious compari-
son,’ but merely in order to describe it in terms
more or less familiar to gardeners, Golden Giant
is said to be of about the same quick growing and
maturing quality as the standard Golden Ban-
tam, of similar rich yellow color and not dissimilar
flavor, but with ears a good inch and a half
longer than the average in the other favorite
sort, bearing twelve or more rows of kernels.
The present season will probably find the new
variety fairly generally distributed; heretofo-s,
though frequently highly commended by gar-
deners here and there, it has not really enzezed
the commercial field.
—Vegetables That
Win
Prizes”
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Some Old Writings Brought to Life
To the Editor of THE GARDEN MacazinE:
‘T HOSE who were delighted to find exerpts from
Parkinson’s “Earthly Paradise” in a recent
issue of the Journal of the International Garden
Club, and who have cordially approved its policy of
occasionally reprinting good material from vari-
ous sources, realize that it is possible to go too
far in this direction. Out of 206 pages in the
present (March, 1919) issue, aside from the
space devoted to the Club’s reports, book notices,
and practical horticultural notes, there are 25
pages of original matter, comprising an article
by Dr. David Griffiths on Decorative Opuntias,
etc., a lecture on Gardens by Lieut. Col. G.
Woodwark, and an article by Alexander Lurie
and G. H. Pring on “Curiosities of Plant Life.”
Of the remaining space, pages 115-150 are given
up to a reprint from William Robinson’s “French
Gardens,” but the real pith of this number is in
pages 20-113, under the heading: “Some Beauti-
ful Specimens of American Gardening in the
Eastern States: with extracts from the Annuaire
of the Newport Garden Club. Reprinted by
permission,” etc., etc. This section consists of
48. full-page illustrations from _ photographs,
chiefly of Newport villas, although a number of
examples of beautiful gardens around Boston,
etc., are included. Interspersed among the
plates, and for the most part entirely unrelated
to them, are: “Some Suggestions for Finer
Gardening” by Arthur Herrington, concealed
under. the large-type caption “Weld, Brook-
line”; “The Modern Method of growing
Sweet Peas” by William Gray, under “Armsea
Hall, Newport”; “Some Garden Irises” by
W. R. Dykes (a lecture published in the
Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society,
November, 1914, although there is nothing here
to indicate the fact), which is subordinated to
the heading “The Breakers, Newport” and
also “The Box and its Enemies” by Bruce
Butterton, which for a wonder stands under its
own title and nothing else. For additional pad-
ding there is a mélange of “Autumn Notes,”
“Gardening Books,” ‘Horticultural Notes,”
etc., extracted without any intimation of their
source, from modern gardening publications,
the majority from Mrs. C. W. Earle’s “ Pot-
pourri from a Surrey Garden.” But—and
while the Annuaire is unfortunately not acces-
sible to me, the Journal has usually been accurate
enough in its reprints so that one cannot charge
all the blunders to copying—the extracting has
been so clumsily done as to produce some very
peculiar effects, as when the casual reader, who
naturally supposes that these items emanate
from the Newport Garden Club, finds on page 47
the advice to go to see a certain book at the
Natural History Museum at South Kensington.
In this case the effect is still further heightened
by omitting the title mentioned by Mrs. Earle
(“Les Roses, par P. J. Redouté,” Paris, 1824)
and inserting this book chat under the con-
spicuous heading: “Garden Near Boston.”
Why not refer me, thinks the reader, to the
Massachusetts Horticultural Society, or the
Arnold Arboretum, or other libraries about
Boston?
The notes on Rhododendrons on pages 37-38
of the Journal are taken bodily from the “Scot-
tish Gardens” of Sir Herbert Maxwell (New
York, Longmans; London, Arnold, 1908), quot-
ing pages 72-73 of his description of “Stone-
field” on Loch Fyne, and appending thereto a
brief note on the Rhododendrons at ‘“‘The Hirsel”’
in Berwickshire (Maxwell, page 86). It may
be that the compiler was a little dubious about
the effect of bringing together the extreme south-
eastern Border and the western Highlands on
the same page, for these paragraphs are enclosed
in quotations marks, but mo such marks are used
with further quotations of entire pages from the
same book. On pages 96-97 occurs the descrip-
tion of a notable tapestry at Monreith—was
this possibly intended as a compliment to Sir
Herbert, | wonder—while page 83 and 85 give
his observations on cooperation with nature
from the introductory chapter (Maxwell, pages
13-15), followed on page 85 and 87 by’a planting
list (Maxwell, pages 66—68). The brief pre-
fatory statement that these plants are suitable
to a northerly climate is taken from the
same source, but an attempt to adapt it to
the United States is made by adding: “Can
be grown also at ‘Aitken, [sic.] and in
ae climates” —presumably intending Aiken,
Examples like this might be multiplied, but
the real issues are more vital. On the aesthetic
side: can any merit in the illustrations compen-
sate for such an inappropriate and jumbled text,
or does not such text, on the other hand, actually
detract from any value which the illustrations
might have if used separately? As for the
ethical aspect of wholesale appropriation of
text without credit therefore, I hesitate to ex-
press my personal opinion. Suffice to say that,
after puzzling the past winter over a few examples
of 17th century piracies, I was taken aback to
find even De Sercy out-Sercied, so to speak,
right here in the 2cth century.—M. F. Warner,
Washington, D. C.
JUNE, 1919
Figs in the North
] THINK that one of the most satisfactory
plants we have for all the year round is the Fig.
I have long experimented with it and have failed
only when I got careless and let it get too dry.
Now I am trying again and have a good specimen.
It is small yet and grows in a pot. Outdoors in
summer it makes a good growth and in winter
itmakes another. It is very green now as I write
in March, with a new growth of nearly a foot,
made in January and February. When it gets
too large to winter in a pot I will set it in the
ground and then take it into the cellar to winter,
letting it grow again if conditions favor. With
its many fibrous roots it transplants perfectly.
Soon it will set fruit and then if the season is not
long enough for the fruit to mature it will stay
on and perfect itself next year, though the leaves
will drop as usual. I have raised good sweet
figs in that way more than once. As the fig is
hardy about as far north as Washington, and grows
in the hedges and shrubbery in London without
protection, it will stand pretty stiff weather here.
Its unusual ways commend it and it is so much
more hardy and business-like than any of the
citrus fruits, though we do like to raise small
trees from the grape-fruit seed. They grow so
fast. But the fig leads them in general interest.—
John W. Chamberlin, Buffalo, New York.
Strange Experiences in Going to the West
To the Editor of THe GaRDEN MaGazineE:
VW HEN I returned from Ohio, a year ago
last December, I brought with me some
of my favorite flowers and _ plants—Peonies,
the snow white Phlox, red raspberry, etc.
During last summer they made very little
growth and no blooms at all. We are in the
foot hills near the coast—our rainy season ex-
tends from the middle of January until about the
middle of March, and during the remaining
months of the year we have very little rain. At
times a heavy fog is driven through “the gate”
and settles down—a fine mist. My plants were
watered and carefully tended but many of them
died. At present, March 15th, a few slender,
red stems from the Peonies are forcing their
way through the Sweet Alyssum which covers
the ground; and a few tender green stems of the
white Phlox are several inches high, while my
California grown plants—Pansies, Iris, Wall-
flowers, etc., are blooming freely. Beside the
red raspberry bushes are California grown plants
which are growing luxuriantly while the Eastern
grown plants are growing “smaller by degrees,
and beautifully less.” Are plants like people?
Do they need to become acclimated? Many
of the greenhouses in our locality are not
heated and a very inexpensive structure seems
to answer every purpose—saye for Orchids and
Maidenhair Ferns. ‘The Asparagus Ferns, used
so extensively by florists are grown in “slat”
houses. In some Fern houses heat is turned on
at night and off in the morning as the sun is so
warm during the day that no other heat seems
to be necessary. The GarpEN MacazIne is
always a delight and joy—it shows us in how
many ways our gardening and flower growing
can be made easier by the use of simple and in-
expensive tools; and it also teaches us what very
beautiful results our Eastern growers are obtain-
ing, and to inspire in us the hope of obtaining
similar results with the use of their own plants.
But we have this difficulty. Is it the soil, and
different climatic conditions that affect the
transplanting? Do they have the same dif-
ficulty at the Arnold Arboretum; and does
a time come when plants develop their pos-
sibilities even when far away from their
own native places-—A4. M. Merrill, Oakland,
California.
—Acclimatization is a debated question and
it is held by some scientists that the thing is im-
possible. Certain it is, as everyone knows, that
plants cannot be shifted about indiscriminately
from one region to another. There are biolo-
gical factors that govern the adaptation of
plants to different locations.
we would have no such thing as local floras or
vegetation characteristic of a particular region,
or—which is perhaps only another way of express-
ing it—of a particular condition. Of course, the
extremes are patent to everyone. You do not
look for Water Lilies on a bleak mountain top
but there are other, more subtle divisions of a bio-
logical climatic nature. ‘The region east of the
Rockies presents a climate that is biologically
very different from that west of the Rockies and
the floras of the two regions are radically dif-
ferent. A few striking exceptions where plants
of one region adapt themselves to the other only
serve to emphasize the conditions. As it is true
that many of our eastern plants may not thrive
on the Pacific Slope, so equally, we have to forego:
the multitude of plants of California. The
Mariposa Lily is one of the elusive
California Poppy, of course, is the notable excep-
tion. The range of the annual mean rainfall is
a determining factor. Climatically, California
is allied with Europe; whereas the Eastern
United States finds its parallel in Western Asia.
Hence, in the past much of the disappointment
in eastern gardening resulted from the effort to
transplant into the Eastern United States the
garden material that was most characteristic
of Western Europe. It fits California, however.
These are fundamental factors of a biological and
climatic nature. Plants are living organisms and
they will not always take to a climate of our
selection. The problem of the gardener is to
find the plants that fit his conditions. That is
good gardening; rather than forcing a struggling
existence for a plant that is palpably crying out
against being made to endure in a place where
it would prefer to die.—E£ditor.
If this were not so -
ems; the’
eae BPS Se ow
Keeping Dwarf Trees Dwart
Pruning the Summer Growth Is
the Secret of Control. It
Forces the Development
| pe a very small garden can enjoy
T. SHEWARD
of Fruit Spurs
several fruit trees of different kinds
if dwarfs—that is really dwarfs, not
merely low-headed standards—are used.
The “dwarf trained” tree is what I have
in mind, so called because it is kept within
Dwarf Peach
with the young
growth stopped.
a definite preconceived form; either
pyramid or trained on a single hori-
zontal wire as a cordon, or on several
in espalier form.
They are kept small, first of all, because
the varieties are grafted on special stocks,
and secondly, by continually keeping the
growth under control and never allowing
the leafy shoot to run away. They are
continually pinched back or stopped all
The laterals
(Fig. 14, H) are
pinched at four
leaves which
induces the for-
mation of spurs
as shown in the
lower drawing
showing the
winter pruning
of the same
through summer. The result of this, of shoot
course, is to throw spurs which produce
the flower and later the fruit.
The fancy types of trained tree can
be effectively used on pergolas, arches,
trellises, etc., and as a backing to a flower
border, a frame to the kitchen garden
or other purposes that may suggest them-
selves. The beauty of it is that the tree occupies prac-
tically no room at all! When planting dwarfs the point of
graft must not be below the level of the ground. That 1s
important, otherwise the graft may throw out roots and
lose the effect of the dwarfing stock. Sait,
During July and August is the time for summer pruning.
All leafy shoots or leaders are pruned but do not pinch back
the natural spurs (Fig. 13). If a leader is not properly cut:
back in winter (Fig. 10) fruit spurs will form at the bottom
(A) with leaf spurs above (B). :
Bush fruits such as currants and gooseberries
can be similarly stopped and spurred. Peaches
are dwarfed by budding on the plum. For apples
use the Paradise seedling, and for pears the quince.
Winter prun-
ing of the side
shoots is done
to keep the
tree within
bounds (Figs.
11 and 12) with
fruit spurs at A
CORDON
eliatercredtesonsagr i | lMeintaunalneey areites
se RSet Suncrn apatealtg
SMEG sie AINE
Prune the leaders, L, in Fig. 1 and
the side leaders, A, to six leaves
Above shows the summer stopping of the
each leader. If made shorter (Fig. 8) side shoots
start (Fig. 9) and must be stopped at one
leaf, A. In winter cut back to two buds
(Fig. 10)
OW for the results from earlier
efforts! If you made the most
of the days and weeks that are
past, you can feel reasonably
sure of generous recompense: if, on the
other hand, you dallied and put off
things you will now get just what is
due you. All this month keep in mind
the suggestions in the box on this page.
Don’t forget to apply the thrift habit
to the building of the compost heap
from which you will obtain next year
extra good soil for potting, etc., and a
fine, rich mulch for all sorts of plants:
Whenever you have any old sods,
weeds, odds and ends, manure, or leaf
mold that isn’t needed elsewhere, add it to cee pile—and
if nothing comes to hand, go out and get something.
earlier.
Vegetables for Now and the Future
You can start from seed this month
(with more than a good chance of
successfully harvesting a crop before a
severe frost): corn, peas, beans, beets,
carrots, turnips, rutabagas, chard,
= et kohlrabi, spinach, mustard, lecrceesentd
mata Bone of cabbage, Brussels sprouts, tomatoes,
and kale set out now will give returns this season, while
the first three as well as corn salad, and witloof chicory
can also be started from seed, the plants to be protected
over winter and used early next season.
The best radishes to sow now are the large winter
sorts. Contrary to expectations, if well grown, they
are milder and crisper than the earliest forcing sorts.
You can start parsley now, either in a seed bed or in
pots, with the idea of shifting it to a coldframe in
September and leaving it there as a source of supply
for all winter.
For fall peas, select quick maturing ‘sorts and plant
not earlier than the 15th of the month. They will need
plenty of water to offset hot weather.
Start cucumbers and tomatoes from seed in pots for
greenhouse culture and winter fruiting.
KEEPING UP WITH GROWING CROPS
They need lots of water—if they are not
getting it from the soil, see that they
get it from the hose.
3 = Keep the soil loose, not only to make
the crops grow faster, but also because it is easier to
pull weeds from loose earth—especially if you don’t
leave many.
Keep the limas well hoed—not to mention the other
beans—and tied or trained to their poles or other sup-
ports.
Lay some brush around the melon, squash and cu-
cumber hills if these are on soil that is at all wet or
muddy. The vines will clamber over it and keep the
fruits out of the mud where they will ripen more evenly.
Cauliflower needs special attention at this time in
order that its growth shall be rapid and continuous.
Loosen the soil often, give plenty of water at least once
a week and fertilize with a readily available, stimu-
lating mixture or with manure water.
Hand-weed the onion rows until the bulbs begin to
swell and crowd out the weeds; then keep up the soil-
stirring process alongside with wheel hoe.
Begin to hill up the earliest crops, and keep the soil
stirred around the intermediate plantings. A light
metal band is sometimes used to slip around cauliflower,
celery, etc. so as to keep the dirt out of the heart.
oH! THE BUGS AND THE RusTs!
Spray the asparagus again if it shows
signs of being badly infested with the
beetle, and keep down the weeds, in-
cluding seedling plants of course, as
always. Another dressing of bone dust
or manure worked in will build up strength for a good
crop next year.
Tomatoes must be protected against rust and mil-
dew by consistent spraying this month. Keep them
tied up, if you are practising that method, and the side-
shoots pruned off. If the foliage is excessively dense
thin it a bit to let the light and air on the fruits.
Spray the potatoes at least twice this month, oftener
if rains come close together. Keep the cultivator going
between the rows as long as there is room. Perhaps
some of the earliest hills are ready for digging. If so
take only what you need for any one day, as this is not
good keeping weather.
Look for borers in the main stems of the squash,
and if you find them, make slits in the stems and kill
the invaders before they cause the vine to wilt. Then
mound the soil over the plants to stimulate the growth
ee
The Reminder is to “suggest’ Dict: may be done during the next few weeks.
item are given in the current or the back issues of THe GarpEN Macazine—it is manifestly impossible to
give all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine.
locked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request), and the Service Department will
also cite references to any special topic if asked.
When referring to the time for out door work of any sort New York City at sea level is taken as standard.
Roughly the season advances fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from
New York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week
Dr. Hopkins (page 20 Feb. issue) also estimates an allowance of four days for each one degree of
latitude or five degrees of longitude, or four hundred feet of altitude.
Che Montt’s Reminder
JULY—A MONTH OF JUST REWARDS
1. Keep every plant growing full
speed; this means plenty of water,
plenty of food, and plenty of atten-
tion, training. Also, the least possi-
ble competition with weeds.
2. The dryer you keep the average
soil on the surface, the more moisture
are you storing up underneath for
the use of the plants. This is the
reason for constant, shallow cultiva-
tion.
3. Sow all seed deeper than you
did earlier in the season, especially
in light soils, and be sure that the
earth is thoroughly firmed down
around and upon it.
4. If you have been prevented
from doing any gardening until now,
don’t be discouraged. There is
plenty that can still be planted both
for this season’s results and those
of next summer.
of new roots above the point of injury, and scatter
tobacco dust on the foliage as a possible preventive.
While you have it handy put some on and around the
melons too.
WISDOM FROM OLD TIME EXPERIENCE
Harvest promptly as soon as a crop is
fit to use.
Potato onions and any grown from
RO) sets should be ready for use now. No
% use letting them occupy the ground
longer than necessary.
Set out the late celery, being sure to keep the roots
moist during and after the operation.
Turnips make a good crop to follow early potatoes.
Why not start a garden exchange or clearing house
in your community to which any one can take surplus
crops or seedlings to be sold or exchanged for other
things that they want but did not raise. Only a small
number of sales would provide funds for its maintain-
ance, and any actual profits could be turned over to the
Red Cross.
TO HILL UP, OR NOT?
Stick to level cultivation except in a
few cases in which hilling is desirable.
Some of these are (1) when vines are
attacked by borers mounding up the
soil over the joints stimulates the for-
mation of new roots; (2) when the potatoes begin to
form, hilling lessens the danger of their becoming sun-
burnt: (3) after tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, etc., have
developed a good set of roots under level cultivation,
hilling places these roots even deeper, increases their
available moisture supply, and adds support to the
stems. This is also important in the case of corn.
Genie the Best Fruits from the Garden
As the fruits begin to reach edible
size and take on color, stop using bor-
deaux or any other spray mixture that
tends to stain or discolor. If fungous
diseases continue troublesome, ammon-
- iacal copper carbonate is a good substi-
tute and one that is in no way injurious or disfiguring
even to ripening apples, pears, etc.
A cover of burlap or light cloth of any sort will
hasten the ripening of the currants and protect them
from birds.
240
Details of how to do each
References to back numbers may be
Increase your stock of gooseberries:
by layering—that is, mound the soil
up around a bush and when new shoots
or suckers start, cut them off with their
new root systems and plant elsewhere.
Potassium sulphide is the standard
spray for ‘mildew which is the com-
monest disease on these plants.
Just because the bush fruits have
borne their. season’s crop, don’t think
for a minute that they can be neg-
lected. Keep them cultivated, and
don’t let grass grow in around the base
of the plants and choke them.
If you are aiming for real quality
fruits, keep on thinning whenever you
note a crowded branch or a specimen that is deformed
or not up to standard.
As soon as the strawberry runners, under the joints
of which you sunk pots last month, have developed
roots therein, they can be cut apart and away from the
parent plant and treated as individuals. The thriftiest
can be set out in the new bed the latter part of this
month. Others can be repotted and carried along in
frames so that later they can be taken into the green-
house and forced for winter fruit.
Continue caring for the grapes as directed in June—
namely, cultivate, tie up, prune ae and thin the
foliage as necessary.
Grapes under glass need plenty of air as the fruits
color up. Check their lateral growth, and thin out
imperfect or surplus berries.
Keep the orchard well sprayed, especially young
trees that can least of all afford to be checked. The
latter should also have a good mulch maintained about
them all summer.
Pick up all early windfalls which might otherwise
furnish retreats for insects. Some of them may be
big enough for cooking, jelly making, etc.
The Flower Garden and the Grounds
Use the hoes and play the hose, is 2
good slogan for July. An important
distinction between the two, however,
is that cultivation should be shallow
so as not to hurt the roots, while the
watering should be copious and deep.
Make out your order for bulbs and hardy perennial
stock for fall planting, and send it of. When planting
time comes there will be no time to send for what you
need, and the dealers, as like as not, will by then be
out of everything you want most.
As soon as the flowers have begun to fade, trim up
any shrubs that have ceased blooming. By cutting
out the “old wood” you give space for the new growth
which will carry next year’s flowers.
Treat the flower garden just like the vegetable plot
as far as cultivation, spraying, and the mulching of the
larger, coarser plants are concerned. Of course, the
aim is to have all the soil hidden from sight by foliage
and blossom, but underneath it ought to be just as free
from weeds and just as loose and friable where the
Poppies and Peonies grow, as where there are potatoes.’
Gather seed of Pansies, and all perennials as fast as
they become fully ripe. They can be sown at once in
flats or hotbeds to give plants for fall setting out or
winter forcing indoors.
Except where you want to save seed, keep the flower
stalks of perennials cut off, removing them as soon as
the blossoms wither. As a plant, especially an annual,
begins to mature seed, it ceases to produce flowers.
Give water frequently to Callas,
Caladiums, and Chrysanthemums out-
doors and mulch them with thoroughly
rotted manure, or the spent material
from an old hotbed. The time when
any plant responds generously to a dose
of manure water is just as it is coming into bloom.
-Repot Chrysanthemums growing indoors, plunge
the pots in a frame, dust tobacco stem waste over and
around them, and spray to kill off the red spider
If you cannot conveniently dig up and replant bulbs
at least mark or label them in some way so that they
can be found later in the season.
Prune moderately the Rambler and other climbing
Roses, and start training and tying up the canes that will
form the framework for next season’s bearing wood.
Keep Ferns and Palms watered and shaded.
Dry off slowly Gloxinias that have flowered.
This is a good time to transplant from fields and
waysides wild flowers with which to dress the distant
corners of the garden. Handle them like other peren-
nials, but with care so as not to let the roots dry.
Mow the lawn less often during hot weather.
Are any of your trees decaying inside, or splitting,
or otherwise failing faster than they need? Tree surg-
ery accomplishes wonders these days.
TH ho IGACR DEN. VWOA GA ZIN E 241
Juuy, 1919
GORGEOUS
IRISES
Surpassing even orchids in
beauty, the regal Japanese Irises
seem to take first place in the
garden of perennials. They
bloom in July—a desirable time
to choose the ones you like, and
order plants for fall shipment.
Japanese Iris, 3 and 4 year
plants, 50 cts. each, $5 a dozen.
Iris Germanica, extra big
plants, 25 cts. each, $2.50 a
dozen.
My new Catalogue gives
the complete list of varieties of
Irises, with other perennials,
trees, shrubs, roses. May I send
you a copy?
ADOLPH MULLER
2706 De Kalb Street Norristown, Penna.
HAT’S the ideal garden. Our large stock of
perennials supply the flowers, our evergreens
provide the seclusion. You can have both right
now, in midsummer—guaranteed, too. Let us
send you, with our compliments, booklets on
Hardy Garden Flowers and Evergreens.
HICKS NURSERIES
Box M. Westbury, L.I., N. Y.
Bay State Nurseries
North Abington, Mass.
We are always ready to supply reliable nursery stock, well grown
and well packed. The satisfaction of our customers is our first concern.
Townsend TRIPLEX
Townsend Patent No. CUTS A SWATH 86 INCHES WIDE
1,209,519 Dec. 19, : : |B 2 i@ = Drawn by one horse and operated by one man, the
1916. . TRIPLEX will mow more lawn in a day than the
: : Y best motor mower ever
made; cut it better and at
a fraction of the cost.
Hardy Phloxes
My Specialty
300 varieties to select from. Bloom from June until
frost. Unsurpassed
for beauty and
fragrance. The fol-
lowing are select
standard varieties.
Independence,
white; Bountain,
pink; LaVague, buff
pink; Obergartner
Wittig, lavender,
very large flowers;
Siebold, fiery or-
ange; Prof. Schlie-
The public is warned
not to purchase Mow-
ers infringing the
mann, light mauve;
Mad. P. Langier,
bright red; Mari-
etta, purple.
Send for com-
plete list.
W. F. SCHMEISKE, Tie Phlox Grower
State Hospital Station, Binghamton, New York
Shut-off
Saves Solution
Just a grip of your thumb—as easy as
pulling a trigger —and the Auto-Spray
starts or stops instantly. There is no
dripping—no wasteof expensivesolution,
has been standard meas equip-
ment for 18 years. Over 600,000 are
in use by Experiment Station work-
ers, farmers, gardeners and home
owners. Other Auto-Spray outfits
for every spraying purpose.
Our Spraying Calendar should
hang in your work room. It tells
whenand how tospray. It’sfree.
Send today andask toofor Catalog.
The E. C. Brown Coa.
850Maple St.
Rochester, N. Y.
SST LEE NE
co
SUS
SoS
ANEURIN
eo
hey 7 AY
AAT IE LESION IL
It will mow more lawn than any
three ordinary horse-drawn mowers
with three horses and three men.
Write for catalogue illustrating all
types of Lawn Mowers
S. P. TOWNSEND & CO.
23 Central Avenue, Orange, N. J.
\
)
ms
wy)
WW,
=
cs
“Wi be
XS
a and it is also strongly impregnated with fungicides.
“HAMMOND’S SLUG SHOT”
Used from Ocean to Ocean
A light, composite, fine powder, easily distributed
either by duster, bellows, or in water by spraying.
Thoroughly reliable in killing Currant Worms, Potato
Bugs, Cabbage Worms, Lice, Slugs, Sow Bugs, etc.
S<=Put up in Popular Packages at Popular Prices.
Sold by Seed Dealers and Merchants
HAMMOND’S SLUG SHOT WORKS, BEACON, N. Y.
Our Products are sold by Seed Dealers and Merchants in U. S. and Canada
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
The worries of building are forgotten when you order a Hodgson House. From
the wide variety of models offered you can easily find just the cottage,
bungalow, garage, or playhouse that will suit your requirements.
will save you the dirt, bother, noise, and uncertainty of building.
The neat, trim designs delight the eye. The sturdy construction
gives enduring service under all weather conditions. The sec-
tions which we ship are made of Oregon pine and red cedar
already painted and stained. Windows and doors are
perfectly fitted. Every part is complete, ready for the
simple task of bolting together. Send for our catalogue
which gives plans and photographs of the houses. Write
us to-day,
E. F. HODGSON CO.
Room 228, 71-73 Federal Street, Boston, Mass.
6 East 39th Street. New York
FAIRFAX ROSES
The Aristocrat of Rosedom, no garden com-
plete without my hardy everblooming roses.
Grown under natural conditions. My free
guide on “How to grow roses” sent on re-
quest. I also have a select grade of
GARDEN seeds.
W. R. GRAY
OAKTON, VA.
5-Tooth Liberty Hand
: Cultivator
Also made with 7 and 9 teeth
GILSON GARDEN TOOLS
The Gilson Adjustable Cultivator-Weeder is the gardener’s most
dependable friend during the summer months. It is adjustable
to any width from four to teninches. Middle tooth can be re-
moved to straddle rows. It is a Gilson guaranteed garden tool.
Ask your dealer, or write to
J. E. GILSON CO.
Moss Aztec Pottery
Offers a wide choice of objects, from simple fern dishes and
bud vases to impressive jardinieres and plant stands. Its
predominating characteristic is refined elegance in designs and
colors. A post card request will bring you the “Moss Aztec”
catalogue and name of nearest dealer.
DISTINCTIVE FERN PAN $1.50
is square with
separate liners
measuring 7x7
inches by 4 inches
.deep. Order as
No. 495.
eee : rT
PETERS & REED
POTTERY
COMPANY
So. Zanesville, O.
ae
Port Washington, Wisconsin ‘|
IMP SOAP
JSPRA
Sure Insect Killer
MP Soap Spray is a scientifically prepared compound
that is destructive to insects without injuring plants
or roots. Does not spot leaves, fruit, grass or deface
paint work. It is clean and colorless. May be used on
fruit trees; shade trees; flowering shrubs; vines; garden
truck; and on all sorts of plants, both under glass and
out of doors.
It is most effective against rose bug; mill bug; white,
black, green and rhododendron fly, red spider: thrips;
aphis; fruit pests; elm leaf beetle and moths. Used in
country’s biggest orchards and estates. Very economical,
one gallon is mixed with 25 to 40 gallons of water. Full
directions on each can. Genuine can has Ivy Leaf
trade mark. Your money back if Imp Soap Spray
does not do as claimed. Order direct if your dealer can-
not supply.
Sent by express at purchaser’s expense.
F. E. ATTEAUX & CO., Inc., Props.
Eastern Chemical Co.
176 Purchase St., BOSTON, MASS.
Dealers Wanted.
Japanese Gardens
Specially made for
summer house
Gardens are a necessary part of
world reconstruction.
T.R. OTSUKA
Landscape Architect
300 South Michigan Ave., Chicago, II].
SUNDIALS
Real Bronze Colonial Designs
From $3.50 Up
Also Bird Baths, Garden Benches, Fountain
Sprays and other garden requisites.
Manufactured by
The M. D. JONES CO.
Concord, Mass.
Send for illustrated Price-List
Columns
1 The Beautifier of Permanence and atpe
Individuality for Public and Gard are
P . G d: arden
rivate Grounds Houses
Transforming barren spaces into || Gates and
spots of rarest charm and beauty. Arbors
When writing enclose roc and
Ask for Pergola Album “H-30” .
HARTMANN - SANDERS COMPANY
Elston and Webster Avenue, CHICAGO
New York Office, 6 East.39th St., New York City
Patent
JuLty, 1919
Making Two Shoots of Asparagus Grow
Where One Grew Before.—For the last two or
three years my asparagus bed had been doing
only fairly well. It produced a fair quantity
of stalks but they were rather on the thin
order, not bigger than one’s little finger. The
bed had been getting, like the rest of the
garden, a general commercial fertilizer dress-
ing each spring. I was not satisfied with
just ordinary asparagus and I decided to
make that bed do its proper duty. Since
asparagus produces shoots in proportion to
the food stored up the previous season, I
fertilized to obtain the maximum growth of
green foliage after the cutting season. A
rich, well-balanced dressing of commercial
fertilizer made up of acid phosphate, wood
ashes, and nitrate of soda was applied over
the rows early in spring. This was worked
into the soil by a deep cultivation over the
whole bed before the shoots started. When
the cutting season was over, I put a heavy
dressing of well rotted manure over each
row. This acted as a mulch to hold moisture
and the fertilizing elements were washed
down to the roots by each rain. Clean cul-
tivation was given all summer, between the
rows. The tops were allowed to remain in
the fall until the foliage had yellowed, show-
ing that the food materials elaborated during
the summer had been stored in the roots.
They were then cut and burned to avoid
carrying over any disease. ‘This spring the
shoots are not just ordinary asparagus, they
are real asparagus, most of them being as
thick as one’s thumb.—H. N. Huit, N. C.
Supporting Bean-poles.—On a recent trip
from New York to Harrisburg, I was deeply
interested in the thousands of regular family
gardens that bordered the railroad track for
more than two hundred miles. In all these
gardens there were poles for beans of
some kind. Yet in no instance were they
properly supported. They reclined against
one another; they leaned; they staggered;
they fell. Those that were set as if a tent were
to be pitched over them were standing best.
But this old method takes a needless amount of
ground. How, then, can such poles be
made to stand upright, even when laden with
vines and pods, and even when, so laden,
heavy gusts of wind come? The method is
simple and very effective: Stretch a common
wire at a height of about five feet from the,
ground. ‘This should be drawn very tight.
It is usually attached to convenient fence-
posts; but if there are none such in the line
of the row of beans, the first and last poles
on the lines should be very deeply sunken,.
leaning slightly outward, and braced. Then
plant the poles along the line of the wire at
the desired distances. Tie each pole to the
wire. The crop is held well off the ground,
and the space has been most economically
employed.—Archibald Rutledge, Pa.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
eet
PET EE
Dum, 1919 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 243
1 You’ve Always Wanted a Greenhouse
Herefit is ready to set up, with all problems of erection so
simple any carpenter can put it up, at a lower cost than you
thought. Built in two types.
CALLAHAN
CUT-TO-FIT
GREENHOUSES
For the commercial grower, capable of expansion to any size.
Best materials—everlasting Cypress—superior workmanship.
Practical, up-to-date construction at low prices.
The Greenhouse for Your Home
The Callahan Sectional Greenhouse which may be installed
by any handy man. As artistic and complete as any one
could wish, a “luxury’’ house at an “economy” price.
A greenhouse can stpply your family with food and flowers all
year round, a real investment. Market gardeners who have been
afraid of poor construction will appreciate the Callahan quality.
Write for particulars mentioning type that interests you.
Catalogue of Duo-Glazed Sash for Hotbed, Cold Franies,
and Garden Frames mailed you on request.
Callahan Duo-Glazed Sash Co.
1322 Fourth St., Dayton, O. AK
The Glen Road Iris Gardens
Grace Sturtevant, Prop.
Wellesley Farms, Massachusetts
GROWERS AND ORIGINATORS OF FINE VARI-
ETIES OF BEARDED IRIS
Uy
Lovett’s Pot-Grown StrawDerries
We have been strawberry specialists for forty-one years. Our plants are unsurpassed
anywhere. We are ready to supply you in any quantity desired for Summer and Fall
Planting. Plants planted in July or August will produce finest berries next season.
We would be pleased to send you our 19/9 Strawberry Booklet (No.2). It gives
full cultural directions, as well as a list of the good old and choice new varieties.
J.T. LOVETT, Inc. Box 125, Little Silver, New Jersey
: =
mnni>etter Built Greenhousesiwiiiiiwz
ify a be Commercial flower growers declare that the Foley con-
struction is superior. During the great snows of a year
ago, not a Foley house failed, or gave way. And they have
withstood winds that wrecked residences near them.
Foley Greenhouses
Are the leaders in construction improvements and refinements. When you select a Foley House
MRS. J. P. KING, Garden-Architect
Hexenhutte Farm, West Nyack, N. Y.
Invites correspondence with owners contemplating
alterations or the laying out of new gardens;
especially owners of small places. No charge for
first examination and preliminary report.
ORCHIDS
Largest importers and growers of
Orcuips in the United States
Send twenty-five cents for catalogue. This amount will be refunded
on your first order.
LAGER & HURRELL
Orchid Growers and Importers SUMMIT, N. J.
—it Plows, Cultivates,
Harrows, Mows
Does 1 horse work at 3 horse
cost. Successfully operated
by unskilled labor.
Thousands of pleased
users. -
iS Does not pack A
ground, Turns
sharp corners, er:
goes close to ngine
fences. Use- Bun
ful the year Runs cream
around. separators,
washing ma-
chines, pumps,
etc.
Write for
Interesting Book
Beeman Garden
Tractor Co,
887 6th Ave.So,
Minneapolis,
ina.
you are free from worry and repair expense. Often costing more they are the cheapest in the end.
Ask for your copy of book ‘‘Greenhouse Beautiful.”
THE FOLEY GREENHOUSE MFG. CO. 180 N. State St., Chicago ©
are unsurpassed for giving that touch of beauty
without which no grounds are complete.
“Dodson Bird Houses
if put up now will be occupied this summer, a8
it Pot our song birds raise two broods of young
each year and usually three, always se! Ca
: a different site for the new nest. DODSON
hm FIOUSES win the birds as they are built by a bird
7 lover who has spent a life time in attracting them
® around his own home.
7 DODSON houses are built by a bird-lover who lives in
a bird sanctuary, and has devoted years of study to the songbirds,
their habits, andin attracting them around beautiful ‘‘Bird Lodge.”
Cultivate the song binds They will protect
your s! and gardens from insect pests.
Order Now Free framing. and colored bird picture worthy
sident American Audubon Association
Joseph H. Dodson * POS Unerisnn Ave.— Kankakee, Illinois
Dodson Sparrow Trap guaranteed to rid ane porary of these quarrel-
A Charming Birdbath
J of Artificial Stone
~~ fifteen inches square, three
inches thick, hollowed out round.
two and one half inches deep in
centre sloping to three-eighths
at edge. Inexpensive, Practical,
Artistic.
Price $2.00. Three for $5.50, f. o. b. Verona.
VERONA BIRD HOUSES. SEND FOR LIST
W. H. BAYLES Verona, New Jersey
some pests. Price
The Years Between
By Rudyard Kipling
“At his poetic best.” These poems show the master poet in
the maturity of ne inspiration.
Net, $1.50; leather, net, $2.00
Doubleday, Page & Co. Publishers
Brooder for 60 to 100 chicks
Profits in poultry raising are increased by the use of Hodgson
Portable Poultry Houses. They simplify the care of poultry so
that one man can look after more birds.
Poultry keeps healthier in Hodgson Poultry Houses because the
sturdy and scientific construction provides certain protection
No. 3 Poultry House for 60 hens—2 units
Setting Coop
against draughts and inclement weather. Good ventilation
provided. No skill is required to set them up. You have only
to bolt together the red cedar sections which we ship, already
painted and fitted. Write for catalogue to-day.
E. F. HODGSON CU., Room $11, 71-78 Federal Street,
Boston, Mass. 6 East 89th St.. New York
HODGSON PORTABLE HOUSES
Will
give the
ESSENTIAL TOUCH
The Bird Bath illustrated
will be the Delight of any.
Garden, Madein our light
stony gray Terra Cotta, it
stands 36 in. high with a bowl 24 in. This
piece is specially priced at $27.50.
Flower Pots, Vases, Boxes, Bird Baths, Fountains, Sun
Dials, Gazing Globes; Benches, etc., are included in
our Catalogue, which will be sent upon request.
GALLOWAY TERRA COITA @,
3214 WALNUT ST. PHILADELPHIA
BARGAINS—FILE YOUR ORDERS EARLY
Peonies: 12, all different, good assortment of colors, my
selection, not labelled, $2.50, postpaid.
Trises: Your selection, one or more of these varieties, while
they last, Florentina, Flavescens, Kochii, Madame Chereau,
Gazelle, Blue Siberian, per bushel, $3.20, express not paid.
Tulips: too Mixed Darwins, or 100 Mixed May Flowering,
or 50 of each, $2.40, postpaid.
Oronogo Flower Gardens, Carterville, Mo.
MAURICE FULD
Plantsman—Seedsman
Garden Lecturer
7 West 45th Street NEW YORK
” SAVE THE TREES.—Spray for San Jose Scale,
we Aphis, White Fly, etc., with
fe GOOD'S:S35FISH OIL
SOAP NOS
* Contains nothing poisonous or injurious to plants or
animals.
FREE ____Our book on Tree and Plant Diseases.
Write for it to-day.
we Good, Original Maker, 2111-15 E. Susquehanna Ave., Phila.
A Garden Library for a
Dollar and a Quarter
Bound volumes of THE GARDEN MAGAZINE represent the
last word on gardening. It is really a loose leaf cyclopedia of
horticulture. You are kept up to date. Save your copies of
THE. GARDEN MAGAZINE and let us bind them for you.
There is a new volume every six months, and Vol. 27 is ready
now. Send your magazines by Parcel Post and we will supply
index, and bind them for you for $1.25. If youhave not kept all
of the numbers, we will supply the missing copies at 25c each, or
we will supply the bound volume complete for $2.00. THE GAR-
DEN MAGAZINE can be of more service this year than ever
before, and you can get most out of the magazine when you bind
it and keep it in permanent form. Address:
Circulation Department
GARDEN MAGAZINE Garden City, New York
Double Rotar
NKLER |
Sprinkles Like
Rain—75 ft. in Diameter
Turning faucet reduces sprinkling
toany area. Takes all disagreeable-
ness out of sprinkling. Does work
quicker, easier and better. Saves its
cost in few weeks in water saving; practi-
cally eliminates all work in watering gardens, lawns,
parks, golf courses, etc. o oe He,
ince you see sprinkler wor
10 Days’ Trial Trial ing you will never give it up,
Write for Trial Offer and Free Book.
DOUBLE ROTARY SPRINKLER COMPANY
184 Gatewny Station Kansns City, Missouri.
JUPITER SPRINKLER COMPANY
184 Dekum Building Portland, Oregon.
Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing—and we will, too
in
HAT true lover of nature does not feel a keen
sense of regret when the frost brings to an end the
delights of the flower garden?
Wouldn’t you give almost anything to have those flowers
bloom all the year “round? Of course you Would. You
can have them, and the remedy is Very simple. Build a
greenhouse—a Lutton V-Bar Greenhouse. Then no
matter what the weather, it can be summer, for you, all
the time.
You can grow fruits and Vegetables, too; and the Lutton
V-Bar will assure you the utmost in results with the least
possible care and cost of maintenance.
in and see us or we will call upon you.
WILLIAM H. LUTTON COMPANY
V-Bar Greenhouses
512 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK
BIB. B@
Plenty of Was for
House, Lawn and Garden
NJOY all the benefits of a city
water system with a Deming.
Just turn a faucet and have water
at high pressure for kitchen, bath-
room, laundry, lawn and garden.
Water Supply Systems
are made in capacities from 180 to
130,000 gallons per hour, for use
in the smallest summer cottage if
or in the largest country estate. ©
THE DEMING CO.
310 Depot St. Salem, O.
We will gladly
send you cala-
tions.
Atlas System 2010
Our plans and photographs await Your inspection. Come |
a SS
&
2
a
@
@
Pack method of
i make-shift devices were
Every Can Perfect.
— | —
«| When You Use the Hall
Cold- ‘Pack Canner
Eee eres es i
OUR canned fruit is a real de-
light to the family. Your hos- 8
pitality will be an event next winter if |
you have a storeroom filled with fruits, |
vegetables, meats, fish and poultry, ready- \
to-serve, in all their freshness and tooth-
some flavor.
Not a Big Job
| With the Hall Canner your canning is made
a simple and easily accomplished task.
There will be no burned fingers—no tired
back—no dropped jars—no wasted fuel—
no cluttered kitchen—no useless mo-
tions—no delayed meals or ruffled tem-
pers. The Cold
canning is not an
experiment or fad,
but the
Tried, Proven and
Universally-Adopted
20th Century Method
The Hall Canner is
the one complete de-
vice for COLD-PACK
canning and preserv-
ing, as urged and de-
monstrated by the
Department of Agri-
| culture and State in-
stitutions.
During the war, for the
sake of conservation,
often used, and ad-
visedly. ae bocce =
the thrifty housewife — eg:
realizes that the use of ee ee ae
1 d conven-
efhcent -an t ee The Hall Canner is-made of 28-gauge galvanized steel;
1en equipmen , When height over all 21 in., diameter 1245 in., canning
obtainable, is economy capacity 12 jars, either pints or US us ae of
rst class. some styles). Weight 11 lbs. net. ‘ach Canner fur-
of the firs a nished with six holders. Shipped complete feaay for
If your dealer does not use, full directions.
sell Hall Canners, send
us $5.50 ($6.00 west of the Rocky Mountains) and we will
ship you one complete, transportation prepaid. haces
Pamphlet with canning directions and time tables mailed free Fi
B
J
on
upon request. Please mention your dealer’s name.
Hall Canner Company
“4 240 National City Bank Building, Grand Rapids, Mich.
The Pure
Joy of —
| Gardening
is in the
Permanent
Record |
You Keep
To chronicle, day by day, your experiences
and discoveries, to note varieties and their
behavior, to follow cultural experiments
£ and their results— these are the things that
Tuarte Heal Peden ; make your garden a delight the year round. The possession of
Fen gigecucrally pre 6S a_- permanent record enables you to get the full enjoyment of
Safety Type, Water-
ferred by garden
enthusiasts. j your garden and to profit next year from what this year’s
ae experience has taught.
Garden records must be ‘‘put down in black and white’’—
in ink. It is a running story written on the spot—in the
garden—just as the ship’s log is written at sea. For. this
purpose garden folks have found great satisfaction in the
Safety Type of
Waterman’s Ideal Fountain Pen
Also made in Self-Filling and Regular types in all sizes
with gold pen point to suit every hand, from very fine and
firm to coarse, flexible and heavy stub. . Most people prefer
medium points in gold pens. :
At the Best Stores
L. E. WATERMAN CO. 191 Broadway, New York
24 School St., Boston 17 Stockton St., San Francisco
41 Kingsway, London, W. C. 115 So. Clark St., Chicago
179 St. James St. W., Montreal 6 Rue Monsigny, Paris
THE CC UNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y.
BY plea? al
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