UNIVERSITY OF B.C. LIBRARY

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THE LIBRARY

THE UNIVERSITY OF
BRITISH COLUMBIA

Digitized by the Internet Archive

in 2010 with funding from

University of British Columbia Library

http://www.archive.org/details/gardentreesshrubOOwrig

k

" THE WALK THAT LEADS TO THE WATERSIDE."

(See page 29.)

Azaleas and Spring-flowering perennials.

Painted by Beatrice Parsons.

Garden Trees

AND

Shrubs

ILLUSTRATED IN COLOUR

BY

WALTER P. WRIGHT

AUTHOR OF

" Alpine Flowers and Rock Gardens," " Roses and Rose Gardens,"
" Hardy Perennials and Herbaceous Borders," etc.

LONDON :
HEADLEY BROTHERS

BISHOPSGATE, E.C.

Preface.

In modern gardens, informed as they are with
the spirit of natural beauty and informality, the
cultivation of good hardy plants under conditions
which give them scope for showing their true
characters, such as among stones and in spacious
borders, must necessarily engage the earnest
attention of true flower-lovers. But shrubs and
trees have an importance at least as great as that
of Alpine and herbaceous plants.

Happily this fact is fully acknowledged, and
the attention devoted to this great class has led
to active exploration, with the result that in quite
recent years a considerable number of fine new
species have been introduced to cultivation. So
remarkable, indeed, have been the modern
" finds," particularly those of Wilson, that works
on shrubs and trees but a few years old are
already out of date ; hence the preparation of the
present volume.

The book is not, however, a mere record of
modern discovery ; on the contrary, it deals with
the best standard kinds as well as with the new-
comers, so that it makes an appeal equally to

4 PREFACE

those in search of novelties and to those who
wish to furnish their gardens with less expensive
but good kinds.

The same liberal illustration with coloured
plates by eminent artists, and with half-tone
engravings of subjects in growth, that helped
the sister volumes in the series to popularity, is
invoked in aid of the present volume.

Walter P. Wright.
October, 19 13.

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

PART I. THE BEAUTY AND VALUE OF SHRUBS
AND TREES.

I. — An Ideal and a Conception - - - 13

II. — Garden Seclusion and Woodland Mystery - 19

III. — The Threshold of the Woodland - - 23

IV. — Shady Walk and Shadowed Water 4 27

V. — The Place of Shrubs and Trees in Modern Gardens 31

VI. — Shrub Beds and Shrub Borders — Spring Beauty 36

PART II. PRACTICAL.

VII. — Mistakes in the Culture of Shrubs and Trees —

Planting, Thinning, Pruning, etc. - - 45

VIII. — Practical Considerations in Planting Shrubs and
Trees — Forms of Beds and Borders — Land-
scape Effects — Backgrounds - - - 55
IX. — Arrangement of Shrubs and Trees both for

Shelter and Beauty - - - - 69

X. — Moving Shrubs and Trees - - - 83

XL — Propagation of Shrubs and Trees - - 91

XII. — Enemies of Shrubs and Trees - - - 106

XIII. — Pruning Shrubs and Trees - 109

PART III. SELECTIVE.

XIV. — Lawn Shrubs and Trees — Pendulous or Weeping

Trees - - - - - - 123

XV. — Leaf and Stem Tints — Beautiful Fruits and

Berries - - - - - - 127

XVI. — Evergreen Shrubs and Trees, other than Conifers 137

XVII.— Conifers - ----- 143

XVIII. — Climbing Shrubs - - - - - 1 55

6 CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

XIX. — Shrubs for the Rock Garden - - - i 70
XX. — Shrubs and Trees for Town and Suburban Gardens

AND FOR THE GARDEN ClTY - - - I 80

XXI. — Shrubs and Trees for Seaside Gardens - - 184

XXII. — Shrubs and Trees for the Waterside - - 188

XXIII. — The Clipped Trees of the Old Dutch Garden - 193

XXIV. — Shrubs and Trees for Hedges - - - 199

XXV. — Shrubs for Shady Places and Undergrowth - 205

XXVI. — Shrubs and Trees for Forcing ... 210

PART IV. DESCRIPTIVE.

Modern Shrubs and Trees, Chiefly Chinese - 221
The Best Shrubs and Trees in Alphabetical

Order ...... 240

List of Illustrations.

In Colour.

PAGE

" The walk that leads to the waterside." Azaleas and Spring-
flowering perennials Frontispiece.

" The pearly tints of an horizon arched over the curve of a

hill." Rhododendrons massed in the foreground- - 13

" The sparkling garniture of spiked Thorns." - - - - 18

" A place of cheerful peace." The Lily Pool atWisley showing

an effective background of beautiful trees - - - 27

" Colour beauty from the first days of Spring." Forsythia,

Almond, Magnolia stellata, Berberis and Prunus - - 36

" The Flowering Currants are among the earliest shrubs to

bloom " 40

" We can obtain beautiful spring pictures in the garden." The

Double White Cherry, Prunus serrulata - - - 46

" The Apple and Crab are pre-eminently beautiful when in

bloom." Apple blossom in a cottage garden - - 62

" The Tree Paeonies are among the finest of flowering shrubs,
bearing immense blooms of brilliant colours." Paeonia
Moutan, Grand Frederic ._---- 66

'" The Almond, one of the earliest trees to bloom and in mild
winters may be in flower in February." It is here
shown with Prunus Pissardii 74

" The Pyrus (spectabilis) is one of the most beautiful of all

flowering trees." The double form is here shown - 78

" The Great Rhododendrons . . . grouped in lawn beds."

Pink Pearl at Kew 94

Magnolia Soulangeana — a glorious Tree Tulip - - - - 98

8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

" Veitch's Virginian Creeper is a true climber and assumes

exquisite shades in the fall " - • - - - 106

" The popular Pyracantha ; Lalandii is a splendid form " - 127

" The Brooms have the interest of green stems as well as of

brilliant flowers." Cytisus Andreanus at Kew - - 130

" Cydonia (Pyrus) japonica and Maulei, with their varieties,

have large red fruits that are often jellied " - - 138

Croup of Firs on the edge of the Lawn - - - - - 143

" Lawn plantings have a rich and at the same time refined

effect " — .__-._. 146

" All the forms of Clematis Jackmanii are beautiful " - - 155
" The Ceanothuses are beautiful deciduous shrubs for walls " - 158

" Clematis montana is a truly charming plant for a wall, arch

or arbour " ........ x62

" The Brooms comprise species of widely varying habit . . .
admirably adapted for the rockery." Cytisus prsecox and
C. kewensis are here shown - - - - - 170

" The three best Daphnes, Blagayana, Cneorum and Mezereum,
are all suitable for the rock garden." Daphne Cneorum
is here shown - - - - - - - 174

" In districts where the natural soil is peaty, Heaths should

be planted freely." Erica carnea and alba - - - 178

Abutilon vitifolium. A free-flowering shrub for a sheltered

corner - - - - - - - - -186

" Double Cherries and Peaches . . . bloom profusely with
very gentle forcing, and the flowers are exquisite."
Primus Pseudo-Cerasus Yoshino, a Japanese variety- - 210

" Shrubs should be considered for the rock garden, because
they enter into harmonious relations with other occu-
pants." Spiraea arguta is here shown • - - 218

" The Laburnum may be planted in the suburbs and in garden
cities." The Laburnum is here shown growing in Kew
Gardens ......... 226

Rhododendron Yunnanense ------- 234

Prunus Pseudo-Cerasus Choskin 258

Rhododendron Loderii -------- 266

Magnolia Lennei - - ...... 294

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 9

In Monotone.

PAGE

Slender Birch and Solid Yew 14

Water Garden at Aldenham 15

Golden Irish Yew and Cupressus Lawsoniana erecta viridis - 22

Rhododendron ponticum 23

The Monkey Puzzle, Araucaria imbricata - - - - 30

Yucca blooming after Forty Years' Growth - - - - 31

Rhododendron Mrs. R. G. Shaw - 50

The Wilderness, Aldenham 51

Bridge in Water-garden, Aldenham 58

Early Morning Mists - 59

The Persian Lilac - - - - - - - - -112

Kolwitzia amabilis - - - - - - - -113

The Monarch of the Terrace, a noble Weeping Willow - - 118

Stone Pine at Kew - 119

Grace and shade on the sun-scorched grass — a good Weeping

Birch 124

Weeping Thorn at Kew — Crataegus oxyacantha pendula - - 125

The Short-leaved Silver -lined Fir, Abies brachyphylla - - 148

The Silver-Frosted Fir, Picea pungens glauca - - - - 149

The Golden Japanese Juniper, Juniperus japonica aurea - - 152

The Golden Cypress, Cupressus Lawsoniana lutea - - - 153

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus grisens - - - - - - - 164

Buddleia Veitchiana - 165

The Wistaria in its glory 168

Italian Arch with Climbing Shrubs - - - - - 169

The Wrestler's Pond, Aldenham 19°

Trees and Shrubs by the Waterside, Aldenham - - - 191

Topiary Garden at Brocklehurst, Hants - 194

Cedar dreaming by the Fountain 195

Veronica Traversii -------- 202

Dipelta floribunda at Kew 2°3

A Modern Tree Paeony, Paeonia Veitchii ... - 206

Two Modern Deutzias, D. Wilsoni and D. Veitchii - - - 222

Two new Chinese Barberries, B. acuminata and B. Gagnepainii 223

10 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

One of the best of the Snowball Trees (Viburnum plicatum - 238

A remarkable new Vine, Vitis Henryana .... 239

Clematis montana rubens 242

Raphiolepis japonica 243

A beautiful hybrid Mock Orange, Philadelphus Rosace - - 250

A little-known Rock Rose, Cistus creticus - - - 251

Kalmia latifolia 254

Magnolia conspicua 255

A Queen of Modern Deutzias, D. discolor grandiflora - - 270
Linum arboreum - - - - - - - - -271

A Modern Honeysuckle, Lonicera Maackii - 286

Magnolia parviflora -------- 287

Stranvaesia undulata -------- 290

Two useful Rock Shrubs, Thuja dolabrata mana and Picea

excelsa Remontii - 291

Olearia stellata 298

Olearia macrosepala 299

Spiraea Henryi --------- 302

Philadelphus Pavilion Blanc 303

DIAGRAMS.

Suggestions for planting trees in front of house - - - 71

Suggestion for beds of Shrubs and Trees beside a walk - - 72

Staking standard trees 87

Depth of planting trees 87

Lifting Evergreen Shrubs 8o

Methods of Propagating Shrubs 95

Pruning Shrubs 115, 116

Use of Shrubs in Rock Gardens - - - - - - 172

PART I.

The Beauty and Value of
Shrubs and Trees.

THE PEARLY TINTS OF AN HORIZON ARCHED OVER THE

CURVE OF A HILL."

(See page 14).

Rhododendrons massed in the foreground.

Painted by Beatrice Parsons.

CHAPTER I.

An Ideal and a Conception.

In making bold garden pictures, in working in harmony
with beautiful landscapes, in creating the glamour of
distant colour, in giving a definite meaning to space,
in linking up the perspective of earth, horizon and
sky, in calling up the peaceful and soothing influences
of dew and shade — in these operations there is brought
back some of the spirit of adventure, some of the
buoyant imagery, which are often held to be the
special prerogative of adolescence.

A true conception of the value of shrubs and trees
is not gained by merely calculating their uses as
screens, or even as belts of colour ; it only comes when
they are regarded as the media through which space is
enchained, hill and vale put in bonds with the garden,
shade held captive and a sense of the mystery of
Nature retained even in the immediate surroundings of
the home.

Considered from this wider point of view, the great
class of plants which it is the object of the present work
to consider attains a scope and dignity that no other
can claim.

It is good to be able to recall that fervour of the
high endeavour which imparts so strong a zest to youth,

13

14 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

for it is accompanied by an inspiring and cheery
optimism. One may get a taste of it in the building
of a rockery, but it only comes back in full measure,
so far as the garden is concerned, when the mind is
given freer play in bold landscape gardening. Recog-
nizing this, it is safe to predict, not only that
garden-making will grow in favour as the years pass,
but that the culture of shrubs and trees in particular
will mount on an ever-swelling wave of popularity.

With judicious planting, shrubs and trees are not only
beautiful in themselves, but form a connecting link
with the landscape and even with the firmament. A
bare knoll, unsatisfactory, even repellent, when it lies
cold and pallid under a grey winter sky, takes life
and character from a clump of Pines. The pearly tint
of an horizon arched over the curve of a hill becomes
firm and purposeful when seen through a woodland
vista or through the tracery of leafless trees.

It does not follow that shrubs and trees — and particu-
larly trees — are out of place in small enclosed gardens
where considerations of landscape cannot operate.
Shelter and shade remain to assert their claims. The
demands of privacy are insistent in some cases. And
above all, there is intrinsic grace and beauty. In the
purposes which they serve, in the diversity of their
habits, in the elegance of their forms, in the luxu-
riance of their foliage, in the large size and brilliant
colours of their flowers, shrubs and trees provide
material for almost every garden purpose. Certainly
there is no garden, however small, in which they are
incapable of playing an important part.

SLENDER BIRCH AND SOLID YEW.
A successful grouping of Trees.
Photo by R. A. Mai by.

A VIEW IN THE WATER GARDEN AT ALDENHAM HOUSE,

ELSTREE, SHOWING CYTISUS SEMPERFLORENS ON THE RIGHT.

For description see Part IV.

Photo by R. A. Malby.

AN IDEAL AND A CONCEPTION 15

There was a time when shrubs and trees were used
almost entirely for shelter and shade, and this lasted
long enough to spread common kinds, of no real
beauty, far and wide. The nurseryman fell to propa-
gating them in large numbers, and having stocked
himself abundantly, he quoted cheaply, offering a
strong temptation to people of limited means. A
vicious circle was thus created and it still operates
forcefully.

There is this danger about common shrubs — the
amateur who considers himself justified in planting
them for quick shelter does not always adopt the
precaution of limiting strictly the area which they can
usefully occupy, and almost before he realises what is
happening they have encroached on space that is
worthy of better things.

We have arrived at an epoch when shrubs and trees
are valued for their intrinsic beauty, just like every
other class of plants. Numerous ornamental kinds
await the amateur's commands. More than ever,
therefore, does it behove him to plant coarse sorts with
restraint ; and to watch their development with
unceasing vigilance. He must guard his garden space
jealously. If it be small, every foot is precious, and the
more limited the area the more important the choice of
plants.

One may sometimes see a line of Laurels planted
with an eye to quick shelter on an exposed site in a new
garden. The amateur argues, and rightly, that he
cannot have a good garden until the force of strong,
cold winds is broken. The nurseryman tells him,

16 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

and truthfully, that Laurels will make a dense ever-
green screen rapidly. There follows a cheap offer of
plants. The Laurels are planted. They grow fast
and soon afford appreciable shelter. But now weak-
ness on the part of the amateur may supervene.
Appreciating the sheltering power of the Laurels, and
failing to realise that they are difficult to control when
they have grown woody, he lets them get six, eight,
ten feet high. Meantime, they are spreading laterally.
Presently he realises that they are becoming somewhat
of a nuisance, and talks of curbing them. A year or
two later he begins the task. Alas ! the branches have
grown thick and hard. Shears are of no use in pruning
them. Tedious work with the knife has to be resorted
to, and even with that, much care has to be exercised,
or large " caves " are formed. The end often is that
the attempt is given up in despair, and the Laurels
are left master of the situation.

If a cheap shrub is brought into the garden to give
shelter it is prudent to turn it into a hedge. Stiff
though that may be, it is in character, and is far
preferable to insolent and encroaching independence,
which so often results in good shrubs being crowded out
altogether, or if planted, overgrown and spoiled by
rampageous neighbours. The Laurel, the Yew, the
Holly, the Privet, the Hornbeam, the Beech, the
Thorn — all of these are best turned into hedges if
planted for shelter, because then strict bounds are set
for them.

With the magnificent array of material at our com-
mand in these days it certainly must not be that our

AN IDEAL AND A CONCEPTION 17

gardens become half filled with objects of no intrinsic
beauty, even if they serve a definite purpose. We
must be able to give good kinds all the conditions which
they require for healthful and beautiful growth.

It is a common delusion that the more beautiful and
sacred purposes of a garden — the capture of shade, the
enchainment of seclusion, the suggestion of the spirit
of mystery — can be fulfilled with a very meagre equip-
ment of knowledge as to plants and their culture.
There may even be found critics who, writing with the
presumption which is only born of ignorance, suggest
that what they may describe as " professionalism "
is an actual bar to the attainment of these ends. It is
only the garden- maker who fully realises the grossness
of this error. The triumphs of modern gardening are
due less to what is often spoken of vaguely as " artistic
treatment " than to that thorough study of plants
and their requirements which garden-lovers now give.
It is, indeed, out of the study of plants that has arisen
the capacity for making beautiful gardens. It is
plants, not phrases, that make gardens. When the
proper plants for particular purposes are chosen, and
grown under the conditions that favour their develop-
ment, there come naturally into being the results which
the flower-lover set before himself at the outset. This
may be called " professionalism," but it is none the less
true art.

To choose the right plant, to put it in the right place,
to grow it in the right way — this triune task is never so
important as when the matter under consideration is
that of shrubs and trees. Not only are errors more

18 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

conspicuous when made with large than with small
subjects, but they are more difficult and expensive to
rectify.

It is for this reason that the reader is asked to repel
that encouragement to make gardens out of phrases
which leads to so much ineffective work, and to study
the shrubs and trees which he sees around him — in
Nature, in gardens, and at shows. Out of the know-
ledge which he acquires, garden-pictures will grow.
He will see the soft and tender tints of young spring
leafage, the snowy billows of fruit bloom, the great
ivory hyacinths of towering Chestnuts, the sparkling
garniture of spiked Thorns, the glittering wreaths of
Mock Oranges, the glowing brasiers of Rhododendrons.
His senses will be lulled by visions of shady paths and
enveloping arbours ; by smooth, soft lawns screened by
banks of shrubs ; by remote, tree-shaded walks ;
by cool vistas where the spirit of mystery lurks • by
glimpses of shadowed water seen through a quivering
heat-haze. And he will have the consciousness of
reality about these things, for he will know that he has
learned how to create them, and will proceed with
confidence to the completion of a delightful task.

THE SPARKLING GARNITURE OF SPIKED THORNS

(See page 18.)

Painted by A. C. Wyatt.

CHAPTER II.

Garden Seclusion and Woodland

Mystery.

It is well that the garden-maker should be imaginative,
so long as he be not a mere visionary. It is well that
there should come before him pictures of peaceful
and shadowed beauty. It is all to the good that he
should dream of a garden that is more than a mere
glare and riot of colour.

We all love the garden of shade and repose. It
possesses an intimate and rarely comprehended appeal.
Deep within us there stirs a vague love of its tender
seclusion. One hardly dare hazard a speculation
as to the origin of this feeling — whether, for example,
it springs from some primitive hereditary instinct,
fruit of an arboreal existence in past ages. Sufficient
that it exists, and that it is a real factor in the
projects of nearly all garden-lovers.

In a garden that is judiciously furnished with shrubs
and trees there will be many moods. Light and shade
will have meanings there that do not exist in the one-
level garden. The music of the winds will have a
greater range of notes. There will be play of sunlight
and shadow on grass. Dew will fall more lavishly.
There will be a softer touch in the air.

19

20 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The garden-maker realises a new power. He can
influence the effects of dawn and sunset, wind and
climate. Not only can he change the ground which
he delves, but also the round of Nature which plays
over it.

Should there not be more garden-making in which
seclusion and mystery lurk behind beauty ? In the
home confines flowers must, of course, predominate ;
but there might often be a hinterland, not distant,
and yet remote, where a fresh and not less beautiful
spirit could reign. Those who love flowers well can
never really grow weary of them, but there are times
when the sweet coolness of secluded spaces presents an
overpowering appeal. The wander-love is something
more intimate, more searching and conversely less
ebullient than the flower-passion, but it is every whit
as real.

When the garden-maker turns to shrubs and trees for
a part of the material with which to furnish his domain,
he might do well to consider whether he cannot use
them for other purposes than display — whether, indeed,
he cannot call into being that sense of restful solitude,
of benign secrecy, which have so soothing an influence
on mind and body. To achieve this purpose is to gain
one of the most profound gifts which a garden can
bestow. With no other class of plants is it possible.
With them it can be accomplished.

It is more particularly when woodland exists on the
estate that the end in view can be reached. For the
woodland can be taken as the ultimate expression,
and everything else can lead up to it. There can be a

SECLUSION AND WOODLAND MYSTERY 21

gradual linking together of home and trees. The more
formal gardening of the house-confines can be gradu-
ally, almost imperceptibly, softened and attenuated
as it approaches the trees. And if no woodland
exists, some rough planting can be done, if only the
formation of a shaw, thicket or roundel, which will
stand for forest.

It is in the belief that gardening conveys more to
many minds than the provision of blocks of colour
round a house, that thus early in our consideration of
shrubs and trees the suggestion is thrown out that a
modulated blend of planting, systematic although not
stiff near the dwelling, informal, even scattered, beyond
its confines, be considered. To take an illustration from
the paths. Near the house they must be neat and
ordered to the point of formality ; they will probably
be of gravel. There are good, sound, practical reasons
for these things, which need not be discussed at the
moment. Beyond the lawn, hard paths may end, and
grass walks begin. They will be dressed, if only
with the scythe. Nearer the woodland, where shade
operates more strongly, moss will assert itself. There
may, too, be a fall of pine needles, which has its influence
on the turf. In peaty districts there may be a carpet of
heath. Note the gradual dropping away from culti-
vation : first the rolled, swept gravel ; next the mown
turf; then the carpet of moss, or pine needles, or
heath. Each will be right in its place.

The planting may follow some such course. It may
not be stiff and formal near the house, but it will be
systematic and ordered. On the outskirts of the

22 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

lawns it will be freer — a little disjointed as it were.
Farther still it will be semi-wild.

This is a conception of gardening which makes for
the linking of the home with Nature. It does not call
for costly schemes or expensive plants. It asks for
nothing more than a note of gradation. In future
chapters we shall see what material there is for giving
effect to the theory, and the means by which it can be
employed.

mm*

■HHHBHM

Hi

GOLDEN IRISH YEW (on right) and CUPRESSUS
ERECTA VIRIDIS (on left).

For description see Chapter XVII.
Photo by R A. Ma I by.

LAWSONIANA

ii^v**^* 7,-*.

RHODODENDRON GLORY IN THE WOODLAND GLADE.

i?. ponlicum at Aldenham.

For description see Part IV.

PA0/0 fry R. A. Malby.

CHAPTER III.

The Threshold of the Woodland.

The point where the garden ends and the woodland
begins should be a place of joy. Trees are great,
kindly friends. They extend welcoming arms and
utter welcoming sounds. Those who have held
companionship with the trees in childhood never forget
the love which grew up for them.

The garden-maker must not be despondent because
he cannot call woodland into being as fast as he can
create lawns and kitchen gardens. He must plant,
wait and watch. More speedily than he expects the
goodly stems will lengthen. The years will glide
by, and as he awakens to find that his children have
grown up to manhood and womanhood, so he will
awaken to the realisation that the bare earth is
covered and now the saplings are giving shelter and
shade.

Few garden-lovers, perhaps, realise the interest that
there is in watching the development of trees ; but
experience quickly teaches them that it fully equals the
interest of Rose beds, herbaceous borders and Alpine
gardens. There is the interest of calculating increase
of height and development of girth. Form of stem
and shape of head, colour of leaf and tracery of bare

24 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

branch against blue of sky — all these points arouse
attention. The trees have individual interest as trees,
and collective interest as wood.

It is the way of most trees to grow slowly in their
early years and fast when they are established. They
have their root-system to make. They have to
become firmly and securely anchored. Let the planter
do good work in planting and staking, and then be
patient for three or four years. The trees will slowly
bind themselves to the earth. They will prepare
deliberately for a lengthened habitation of the place
allotted to them. Too wise to make hazardous
experiments, they will not run swiftly upward on a
flimsy foundation, but will bed themselves well in.
After that they will bound upward.

On the threshold of the woodland we look back to
the garden and forward to the trees. Each in its way
has a charm for us. We love the brightness, the cheer-
fulness, the refinement, the perfume of the garden ;
and we love the clean boles, the tossing plumes, the
hum and sob and rustle of the woodland. There may
be moments when our mood is tuned to the one, and
moments when it is best suited by the other. But the
trees will always be constant.

In making gardens there must ever be an early,
warm thought for trees. If the garden can only be a
small one there may still be trees. We cannot in this
case plant the monarchs of the glade — the Oak, the
Beech, the Elm, the Ash, the Sycamore, the Chestnut —
in any quantity. But we can plant Birches, perhaps a
purple Beech and even a selected variety of Oak.

THE THRESHOLD OF THE WOODLAND 25

The rest must be smaller trees, and of these there are
many remarkable for beauty of bloom, which will
give us ample choice.

In the smallest garden there should be an attempt
at cover, if it consists of no more than a cluster of
silver Birches and Austrian Pines, with quick-growing,
dense, yet beautiful shrubs such as Barberries, the
Amelanchier and the flowering Currant, planted near.
Rhododendron ponticum may be planted, too, if there
is no lime, although it will grow more slowly, for it is
dense in habit and beautiful in bloom, while no game
will touch it. However small the thicket it will serve
to provide the woodland mood.

There will be bird song on the threshold of the
woodland. This will be the best of garden-music to
the Nature-lover. We shall have to guard our fruit
the more carefully for the shelter that we give to the
birds, but we shall not count that cost too high in the
end, although we shall have our moments of exasper-
ation when ravished buds and berries and torn flowers
come to be counted. The maker of a garden feels a
singular, almost a thrilling interest on the discovery
of the first nest on his domain. His garden is no longer
an empty and desolate flat of bare earth. The birds
have set their seal on his efforts.

Woodland ! The word has a moving sound. It
conjures up memories of swaying tops and singing
winds ; of cool, humid paths ; of dun, darting shapes ;
of soft carpetings of soft -toned flowers. There we have
sought the bluebells, the periwinkles, the primroses,
the windflowers, the wild orchids. Happy the garden-

26 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

lover who has woodland on his property. Let him not
permit it to become the exclusive possession of game-
keepers. Let him not regard it as alien to the garden.
Let him rather link up the garden with it and learn the
communion of the trees.

" A PLACE OF CHEERFUL PEACE."

(See page 29).

The Lily Pool at Wisley, showing an effective background of beautiful trees.

Painted by Josephine Gundry.

CHAPTER IV.

Shady Walk and Shadowed Water.

Among the readers of this work there may be many
whose gardens do not permit of extensive planting.
Woodland in the expansive sense of that alluring term
is denied to them. Even so, they may, as I have
shown, capture the woodland spirit. The purpose of
the present chapter is to suggest that they may also
aim at seclusion and shade through the media of walks
and water.

The typical garden walk requires no description.
One is glad, in a sense, that it is so completely a side
issue of the subjects dealt with in the present work
that it calls for no more than passing reference.
There must be firm, hard walks in certain parts of
every garden. These walks are serious works in the
making. They are drained and ballasted, gravelled
and cambered. When they are finished they have a
decorous and correct air. We cannot be light-hearted
on walks like these. They are in, but not of, the garden.
They come into being because there must be relatively
clean, dry access to houses in all weathers, and they
are tolerated as macadam roads are tolerated.

The walks in gardens which we really love are those
winding, undulating, shady, soft-footed walks which

28 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

have no fixed duty and no sense of responsibility.
They never look stiff. They do not jar. They
seem to be as much a part of the garden as the leaf is
of the tree. We do not feel that they call for polished
footwear. We can even, on occasion, traverse them
barefooted. Birds love them. Flowers spring in them.
Moss spreads over them.

Walks such as these never look as if they have been
made. They seem to have grown. Yet it is not every
garden owner who finds one on his place, and he may
wonder if, like the mushrooms, they have spots which
they favour. It may seem merely a coincidence to him
that after the walk has rambled on in its inconsequent
way for some distance it presently ends by a shadowy
pool. This kind of walk has that kind of way.

Perhaps the walk never really more than half grew.
In a year long past someone did something that
started it on its way. It may have been a very simple
thing, no more than planting a line of shrubs and
scattering a few grass seeds beside them, but it was
something and it sufficed. Nature took the walk in
hand after that and finished it off.

Does the garden-maker realise how easily a grass
garden-walk is framed ? A few shrubs and a few
seeds will do it. First, of course, there must be a con-
ception. There must be two points fixed, now
detached, but presently to be linked up. The ulti-
mate point may be wood, or water, or summerhouse, or
seat, or whatever makes the strongest appeal. That
objective which interests the garden lover the most
may serve for the termination of the walk.

SHADY WALK AND SHADOWED WATER 29

Does the gardener want to form his walk in a series
of flowing curves ? Then let him lay on the ground a
waved cord, following the outline which he desires.
On one side of the line he will sow his seeds, on the
other he will plant his shrubs. He will plant for beauty
and he will plant for shade. He will intermingle leaf-
trees such as Birch and Oak with flowering trees such
as Thorn and Lilac. His shrubs will include the
Rhododendron, the Azalea, the Berberis, the flowering
Currant, the Forsythia, the Deutzia and the Weigela.
He will plant for berries the Cotoneaster, the Holly,
the Aucuba, and perhaps the little Pernettya.

Where space permits the walk may be wide — eight
feet or more, because then a portion may be planted
with bulbs for spring beauty. A strip in the centre
may be kept mown in spring in order to provide
reasonably dry walking, and in July the whole may be
scythed over, taking down the yellow tops of the bulbs
together with the tall grasses then in bloom. Daffodils
will, of course, form the bulk of the bulbs.

There may be groups of Tree Paeonies beside the
walk. There may be clumps of Bamboo. Dwarf
flowers can fringe the front.

The walk that leads to the water-side will carry with
it all the way the sense of coolness and shade. Willows
may be planted to overhang the pool. Details as to
kinds and treatments are given in later chapters.

The waterside is dull, even melancholy, in winter,
but in summer it is a place of cheerful peace. In every
garden there must be parts suited to the seasons. We
cannot have every portion of every garden topically

30 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

beautiful and interesting at every period of the year
There is, however, one thing that we can do, we can
draw on memory and cultivate imagination ; then,
when the planting season is with us, we can form
pictures for this part of the garden and that, for this
season and the other. It is thus that the most beauti-
ful and enjoyable gardens are made.

THE MONKEY PUZZLE 6 I AN EXPANSE OF TURF.

Araucaria Lmbricata at Hinsley Park.

For description see ( hapter XVII.

Photo by !■'. Mason Good.

AT PEACE WITH TIME.

A YUCCA BLOOMING AFTER FORTY YEARS GROWTH.

For description see Chapters XVI. and XIX.

Photo by F. Mason Good.

CHAPTER V.

The Place of Shrubs and Trees in
Modern Gardens.

In considering the part played in modern gardens
by shrubs and trees we might first take the early
bloom of certain standard flowering trees, such as
Plums, Almonds, Cherries, and various Pyruses. It is
to be remembered that this comes as early as April. A
little later we have the Thorns, then the Robinias, the
Catalpas, and many others.

The spring-flowering trees allied to the great domestic
fruit genera are beautiful in a very young state ;
they grow slowly and they never attain to great
proportions. It follows, therefore, that they are
suitable for small, as well as for large, gardens. No
garden-maker can afford to overlook them. He may
have at the bottom of his heart a particular love for
some special flower ; he may have within himself the
makings of a narrow specialist in Carnations, Roses,
Dahlias, or Sweet Peas ; but if his garden is to be a
garden at all, it must have some permanent features.

The amateur should not permit himself to be preju-
diced against the spring trees because they are arti-
ficially propagated by budding or grafting on tall
standard stocks of Crab, Gean, Thorn, or Plum. This,

31 3

32 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

indeed, gives them their instant value, for it lifts them
at once on to a conspicuous plane, and permits of
their being associated with beautiful bushes, which
hide the bare stems of the standards and in no way
interfere with the spreading heads.

The flowering trees are a glorious feature of the
garden in spring. It may be that they are ornamental
with fruit or berry in the autumn, but be that as it may,
their spring charm amply justifies their existence.
They rarely fail to bloom, and generally they clothe
their branches in flowers from base to tip. They are
not long-lasting, but they serve their purpose, opening
the garden year with a flush of beauty. It is not
necessary to plant them thickly. A few trees here
and there, or spaced in shrub borders, will give a
touch of warmth, life and colour at a time when the
cuckoo begins her call.

Timber trees will be planted sparingly in small
gardens, and he who is tempted by dreams of coolness
and shade will do well to remember that he can get
these agreeable features without introducing coarse and
greedy trees such as the Elm and Poplar. He may
think of the Copper Beech, the Mulberry, the Catalpa,
the Tulip Tree, ornamental species of Oak, and others
which are described in their proper chapters. There
are, of course, many places in which garden melts into
park and woodland ; and here the trees of the forest
will have their appropriate place. This question of
tree-planting presents, perhaps, as nice a problem as
any which besets the garden-maker. He has to
think not only of the benign influences of dew and

THE PLACE OF SHRUBS AND TREES 33

shade, but of the maleficent effects of drip and root-
foraging. A balance has to be struck. Isolated lawn
trees cannot be planted with as little consideration
as belts of Larch. Trees for the inner garden, for the
house-confines, must be kinds which do not send out
locust-like plagues of root, nor grow stiffly, but which
have graceful habit and ornamental foliage. One
often sees heavy belts of cabbagy trees quite close to the
walls of a house, where there is inadequate perspective.
These are cases in which the same mistake has been
made as is made by the small gardener with his Laurels.
A belt of trees has been planted for shelter, without
thought as to their ultimate dimensions. The trees
have grown, thinning has been neglected, and presently
a gloomy mass is formed.

There can be no doubt that a new garden requires
constant observation for several years in order to main-
tain its balance. This is not least the case with
gardens which have been formed under the supervision
of a competent landscape gardener. He is bound
to give an immediate effect, and he cannot do that with-
out leaving some thinning and rearrangement to be done
afterwards. A shrubbery must be either painfully
thin in its youth or gorged in its maturity that is to
need no manipulation during its adolescence.

When the flowering and the large foliage trees have
been considered there remain two great classes :
the flowering shrubs and the coniferous trees. The
part of the former is growing yearly in importance.
It is to this class that the greatest additions have been
made in modern times. Many entirely new shrubs

34 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

have been brought from China, and while exploration
has been going on in the Far East hybridizers have
been at work at home, so that novelties have come from
two entirely distinct sources.

If flowering shrubs were planted at all in the old
days it was in the form of groups of Rhododendrons,
which were generally set on the outskirts of lawns.
It was rare to see beds or broad belts of various kinds of
flowering shrubs, associated harmoniously. That,
however, we are beginning to see now, and what we
may expect to see more and more frequently as the years
pass. Lovers of herbaceous plants mix their favourites
with greater or less skill in borders, and just as they
do this, so will shrub-lovers make borders of the plants
which they like best. It is often the ideal way of
growing a shrub to mass it in a bed to itself, but owners
of small gardens cannot do this to any extent, and so
they will put the kinds together in beds, borders or
belts.

Does a comparison between shrub-borders and
herbaceous-borders suggest itself ? Such a thing is
pardonable. The shrub-lover can point to permanent
effect. He is able to claim superiority in the fact
that his areas are never bare, nay more, that by a
judicious use of evergreens, or such deciduous shrubs as
have coloured stems, he can have winter as well as
summer beauty. Nor can it be said that the balance
is redressed by superior brilliance in the summer. No
herbaceous plants are gayer than Weigelas.

It is probable that as time passes, and more and
more beautiful shrubs are introduced, there will be a

THE PLACE OF SHRUBS AND TREES 35

growing tendency to form shrub-borders. Not a few
amateurs, enamoured of the new shrubs, but reluctant
to give up herbaceous plants, will try to form joint
borders. With care and restraint success is not
impossible.

The less hardy shrubs will find appropriate places
on or under the lee of walls. Many beautiful kinds
that are in danger in the open are safe on walls, where
it is easy to fix a mat or other shelter over them in
severe weather.

The conifers present a striking contrast with the
foregoing classes. For the most part they are dis-
tinguished by dense habit and small leaves. Viewing
them broadly, we consider them as dense, evergreen,
columnar or pyramidal trees, in no sense brilliant or
showy ; but with a refined and " well-bred " air,
which renders them admirable isolated objects in
selected parts of the garden.

With so much ground to cover in a not inadequate
but still limited space, this survey of the part played
by shrubs and trees in modern gardens must necess-
arily be brief. We see, however, that while giving that
play of light and shade, that suggestion of cool and
dewy peace, which forms so great a charm of the garden,
they do far more, giving us colour beauty from the
first days of spring, exquisite tints of leaf and stem
throughout the year, brilliant fruits and berries and
graceful and elegant habit.

CHAPTER VI.

Shrub Beds and Shrub Borders —
Spring Beauty.

The old-time " shrubbery," with its massed Laurels
and such-like common places, must give place to
shrub-beds and shrub-borders in which a more artistic
and varied system of planting is adopted.

Although there are many summer-flowering shrubs
it is in spring that the shrub-planter who devotes real
care and thought to his collection reaps his richest
reward. Some kinds will be in bloom before the
winter quarter expires j a few, notably the deliciously-
scented little Mezereon (Daphne Mezereum) will be
in flower in advance of their leaves. March will give
blossoms, April, May and June will be rich in bloom.

One of the great delights of spring to the garden-
lover is to see the first soft and tender film of green
spreading over the beds and borders where deciduous
shrubs are planted. At first it is only faintly per-
ceptible, but it derives substance day by day. Some
of the Spiraeas are particularly pleasing in their gauzy
garb. The beds become interesting at once, and their
charm grows as the days lengthen and spring
establishes itself more and more firmly. The long
ruddy rods of Deutzias become studded with dove-

36

COLOUR BEAUTY FROM THE FIRST DAYS OF SPRING."
(See page 35.)
Forsythia, Almond, Magnolia stellata, Berberis and Prunus.
Painted by Josephine Gundry.

SHRUB BEDS AND SHRUB BORDERS 37

green swellings; the thick canes of the Weigelas are
stained with fresh verdure ; the grey, frail, almost
substanceless shoots of the Mock Oranges pulse with
vigorous life ; sturdy green knots appear on the
Honeysuckles. One by one the shrubs respond to the
gentle and sympathetic touch of spring, and for many
weeks the entrancing picture of unfolding goes on,
growing in volume as the April days wind their course
towards May.

However insignificant the other features of a garden
may be, he who has a collection of shrubs will lack
neither interest nor beauty in the joyous spring days.
He may sympathize with, but assuredly will not envy,
the Alpine enthusiast, whose rockeries are also bright
with flowers.

When the grower realises how much delight there is
in the pageant of spring he will take steps not only to
enrich but to prolong it. He will not only plant beauti-
ful shrubs, but he will make a judicious selection of
kinds, so that from the first days of spring until the
Rose-season begins, he may have beauty.

In those old-time shrubberies that we wot of a
thick belt of shrubs and trees came right to the edge
of the lawn, drive or path. Things were kept " neat "
with shears, mower and besom. The grass was
cut, the belt clipped and the gravel swept. Vegetation
was dense, almost impenetrable. Well, this was at
least good for the birds. They swarmed in the thicket,
and found the fruit-crops in the adjacent kitchen
garden conveniently near. But garden interest was
lacking. Spring was a happier time for the birds

38 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

than for the gardener. What we now do is to keep
the shelter-belts back from lawn and path, in order
that we may have objects of interest and beauty to see
when we wander in the garden.

Turf is the best of all foils for shrubs, and even
where they are planted in borders by the side of walks,
a margin of grass, perhaps two feet wide, should be
provided between border and path. When the grass
is there the mowing machine must be used, and this
simple fact will tend as a check on the straggling over
paths which is so often seen. The mower will see to
that for the convenience of his work.

The old packing resulted from the almost exclusive
use of evergreens. In nine cases out of ten they were
not put in with any gardening interest, but merely to
fill up space. Modern horticultural taste will not
tolerate this. The melancholy thing is that it went on
in small gardens, where every inch of space was
valuable. Now, broadly speaking, the evergreens are
not important for their flowers (there are exceptions,
Berberis Darwinii and the Rhododendrons to wit) and
indubitably there is a temptation to pack them and
leave them. The greater the proportion of evergreens
in a collection of shrubs the more likely is a sense of
sameness, with concomitant loss of interest, to take
possession of the mind of the owner. Partly because
of this deadening influence, and partly because the
bloom is relatively unimportant, evergreens should
not predominate.

It is the deciduous flowering shrubs that are the
chief joy of spring, and they should be the most largely

SHRUB BEDS AND SHRUB BORDERS 39

represented in modern gardens. The fact that they
will need cultivation is in their favour, for culture
maintains interest. A person who prunes his shrubs
as he prunes his Roses and his fruit trees will always
have a lively interest in them. He will feel that their
success or failure hangs directly on his own handiwork.
When they thrive he will have a gush of pleasure that
far exceeds any passive enjoyment.

Perhaps the ideal plan of making what might be
termed mixed borders or beds of shrubs and trees is to
plant both deciduous and evergreen kinds, the
former mainly to give flower-beauty, the latter to give
a " furnished " and substantial effect, particularly in
winter. Some of the evergreens may be members of the
great Conifer or cone-bearing class, many of which
are admirably adapted for planting among leaf-losing
shrubs. This point is kept in mind in the illustrated
suggestions for planting which appear in other parts
of the present volume.

It is beside lawns and paths rather than beside
drives that the most important shrub-planting should
be done. The commoner, cheaper kinds of evergreens
may be set near drives, where it may be assumed that
movement is more rapid and time for detailed in-
spection less abundant. Here there may be such
massing as is contemplated, for broad effects are
appropriate.

In the larger places much richer and better garden
treatment beside the main drives may be expected in
future than is generally attempted now. Such drives
often pass through a large park, and until the im-

4o GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

mediate surroundings of the house are reached, little
of horticultural interest is attempted. Yet by the
simple plan of forming groups of shrubs at suitable
intervals, garden interest and beauty could be unbroken
from lodge gate to house door. The groups would have
to be fenced to keep stock at bay, and in exposed sites
it might be necessary to set up close wattles for pro-
tection in winter. But neither would entail a great deal
of labour or expense.

In such cases I would certainly plant groups of one
kind at each station rather than adopt the mixing
system, because with the rapid transit bold clumps of
colour would be more suitable than blends.

It is not only beside drives, lawns and paths that
we can utilize shrubs, but also beside water. The
islands of garden lakes form splendid beds for shrubs,
and we may learn lessons for our work in this direction
from the Japanese, whose skill as landscape gardeners
makes their system well worthy of study. Inasmuch
as the waterside presents its greatest charm in summer,
when the hot weather makes the coolness and humidity
grateful, we may here plant or otherwise utilize
summer-blooming plants. The Hydrangea ought to
have a prominent place, and it can be conveniently
used in the form of large plants growing in tubs, which
can be shifted under cover, or to a sheltered place, for
the winter. The soft tone of the flowers, the freedom
with which they are produced, and their long duration,
are strong points in favour of this splendid shrub as an
ornament for the waterside.

The Flowering Currants (Ribes) are among the

THE FLOWERING CURRANTS ARE AMONG THE EARLIEST
SHRUBS TO BLOOM." (See pages 40-41.)
Painted by A. C. Wyatt.

SHRUB BEDS AND SHRUB BORDERS 41

earliest of deciduous shrubs to bloom. Their precocity
is such that a mild winter may find them in flower in
February7, and this is regrettable, because the sprays
have no protection from the leaves, which often open
behind the flowers, and a spell of sharp weather may
spoil the blossoming, taking the colour out of the
flowers and leaving them pallid and limp. They
are such gross growers that rich soil should be eschewed
and plenty of room should be given. The Forsythias
may be in bloom with the Flowering Currants, and
the Mezereon will also be early. A little later the
earlier Magnolias, such as stellata, the Weigelas, and
the Deutzias will open. Later still, and yet in antici-
pation of summer, will come the hardy Azaleas,
Rhododendrons, Kerrias, Viburnums, Mock Oranges
(Philadelphus), Brooms (Cytisus), Barberries (Berberis),
Lilacs and the earlier Spiraeas such as arguta and
prunifolia flore pleno.

The flowering trees of spring embrace the Almond,
Cherries, Plums, Thorns, Lilacs, Laburnums, and the
lovely Pyrus spectabilis, all suitable for planting on
standard stems among shrubs, where they break up the
level and give a happy suggestion of " finish " even to
a young bed.

The shrub-lover will naturally try to get all the
best kinds represented in his garden, whatever their
flowering season ; but he will make a special effort to
plant all the best of the kinds which bloom in spring —
that season when flowers have the most cheering
influence, and when the awakening activities of Nature
excite the most active response in the human heart.

PART II.

Practical.

CHAPTER VII.

Mistakes in the Culture of Shrubs and

Trees — Planting, Thinning, Moving,

Pruning, Soil, etc.

Cultural errors in gardening are serious in proportion
to the cost and size of the plants. The point that it is
less easy to rectify a mistake in planting an Oak than in
planting a Snowdrop is so obvious as to call for little
emphasis.

There are people who rely for their principal garden
effects on flower beds, which are planted at least
twice a year. Changes can be rung on these from year
to year, but shrubs and trees are planted for perma-
nence, and it is, therefore, the more necessary to give
careful consideration to every point, particularly to
site, soil and preparation, before planting begins.

Shrubs and trees respond to different methods of
treatment just the same as other classes of plant. A
person who takes the trouble to observe the ill-effects
of over-crowding on a seed-pan of Ten-week Stocks
or Tomatoes has an object-lesson that should serve
him well in planting his shrubberies.

It is, unhappily, rather the rule than the exception

45

46 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

to see trees interlacing, and shrubs thrusting at each
other in gardens. The nearest woodland or thicket
gives examples of what comes from crowding, and yet
the same doleful evidence of neglect is allowed to
accumulate in gardens.

As regards pruning, let the amateur note what
happens in the hedgerows, where a tangled growth of
brier, hazel, wayfaring tree, bramble, and many
another wilding is seen. What a mass of growth for
a sparse and fugitive display of bloom ! Old gnarled
branches, long past the stage of flowering, mingle with
younger shoots, half-smothering them, and robbing
them of food and light.

Lessons from Nature are abundant on every hand,
but for the most part they are unheeded, and so it is
that shrubberies become unkempt and ineffective.
One must confess that there are moments when the
tangle of hedge or thicket is picturesque. Those who
see it in its summer beauty, and never realize that it has
another and a longer phase, may even hold it up as a
model. Seen only from a passing motor-car in summer
a large hedge may suggest grace and natural beauty
in a form worthy of imitation in gardens. But keep
in touch with that hedge through the round of the year,
and a different opinion is formed. It is the casual
visitor to countryside and garden who condemns as
mere professionalism the demand for good culture in
gardens.

If we take any one of the great flowering shrubs,
and study two plants, one grown in suitable soil with
plenty of room and properly pruned, the other crowded

WE CAN OBTAIN BEAUTIFUL PICTURES IN THE GARDEN.

(See page 55).
The Double White Cherry, Prunus serrulata.
Painted by Beatrice Parsons.

MISTAKES IN CULTURE 47

with a mass of shrubs in poor ground and left uncared
for, we shall have an unforgetable lesson.

It is not stiff and formal professionalism which asks
for good culture with shrubs. A well-pruned shrub
is much more graceful than an unpruned one. It is a
fallacy to suppose that most plants in Nature are
graceful. It is only for a few odd days of the year
that they are pleasing, most of the time they are ugly.
Well-managed shrubs are attractive even in winter.

Most failures with shrubs spring from overcrowding.
When the plants begin to mass, the cultural sense
degenerates, with the result that pruning is neglected,
and the plants grow into each other. The weaker are
overborne by the stronger, and their growth dwindles.
Instead of long spikes or racemes of bloom we see a few
feeble blossoms on weak twigs.

Every good shrub has an individuality of its own,
and that ought to be developed, not allowed to become
submerged.

There is perhaps the least tendency to crowding
when standard flowering and foliage trees are planted
amid shrubs, and that in itself, apart from their
admitted beauty, gives a good reason for planting them.
These trees give a sense of "furnishing," which a low
belt of shrubs does not. Let the reader who is
oppressed by a sense of emptiness in a newly-planted
shrubbery, and is tempted to put more shrubs in, set
a few standard trees among the shrubs at distances
of fifteen to twenty feet apart, and he will find that
the change in perspective has a remarkably satisfying
effect.

48 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Another plan that may be adopted is to set tall
standard Roses of vigorous, free-growing kinds, prefer-
ably Wichuraianas, among shrubs. These also have a
" furnishing " effect, and exercise a restraining
influence on that tendency to pack which is so fatal
a lure to most planters when they are forming
shrubberies.

Perhaps sparing use ought to be made of the word
" shrubbery," because it has grown to have an asso-
ciation in the minds of most people with dense masses
of Laurels, Aucubas, and such commonplace things.
It is this type of shrubbery that it is most desirable
to get away from, except as a means of cheap shelter,
which, as we have already seen, a hedge provides. The
" shrubberies " that I have in mind are rather shrub-
beds, planted with selected kinds, just as Roses are
planted in beds by Rose-lovers, every plant standing
out by itself, with its individual beauty fully displayed.

One is reluctant to speak of the massing of Rhodo-
dendrons as a mistake, in view of the fact that they are
evergreen, and that a large bed presents a brilliant
spectacle in early summer ; but when one sees them
grown as separate plants, as in the great Cornish
gardens like Tremough, and at Kew, one sees that the
plan is superior, for each plant becomes a noteworthy
individual, symmetrical, evenly-balanced and with
finer trusses of bloom. Following this plan, one would
space Rhododendrons in large beds, or set them at
intervals beside a walk, rather than plant them so close
that they grew into masses. While saying this, it
may be admitted that Rhododendrons lend them-

MISTAKES IN CULTURE 49

selves better to massing than most shrubs, and their
comparative success under such conditions cannot be
taken as a guarantee of success with other kinds.

Sites for shrub-beds or belts can be found beside
drives and paths, on the extremities of lawns, and on
that half-way space or no-man's-land which often
intervenes between the garden proper and the wood-
land. One often sees in gardens belts twenty or thirty
feet thick of shapeless, graceless trees and tubby
shrubs. Not a single tree or shrub in the whole
area will bear a moment's inspection, and all the
shelter that is provided would be given by a six-foot
Laurel hedge. Consider the waste here.

The garden-maker should look out for good sites,
and by no means be content to give his choice kinds the
fag-end of a mass of Laurels, where the area is limited
and the soil impoverished.

The fact that shrubs have to stand for many years
should convince the planter that liberal preparation is
necessary, and there should be no such thing as plant-
ing in poor, shallow ground. The soil should be dug
deeply. Manuring is beneficial, but not, as some think,
essential if the natural soil is a good loam or clay.
The important thing is to provide a deep-rooting
area, especially for deciduous shrubs ; it is not so
important for evergreens. Given this, most shrubs
will thrive without heavy manuring. Manure is
given with the greatest advantage as a top-dressing or
mulching a few years after the shrubs have been
planted. A coat spread on every other year has
marked effects.

50 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

I have noted with an interest not unmixed with
surprise, the rapid progress of shrubs on ground much
lacking in humus and fibre, in some cases with chalk
less than a foot from the surface. The loosening of
the chalk is not a laborious process, and deepens the
bed. It should be recognised that the great majority
of shrubs do not share the dislike of Rhododendrons
for limestone. The success of the shrubs in the
absence of much manure points a lesson, and I have
little doubt that water is more important than manure
for the first two or three years. A shrub will not miss
manure if it has plenty of water. He who can turn
a hose on to a bed of newly planted shrubs in dry spells
the first year after planting will do more for their future
welfare than can be effected with a whole farmyard of
dung. In light, sandy soil manure is beneficial.

When a mistake has been made in planting shrubs
too thickly it should be rectified by thinning. The
great majority of shrubs " move, " as gardeners say,
quite well when they have been planted three or four
years. Evergreens move better than deciduous kinds.
I have no fear whatever of moving most evergreens in
summer, provided rainy weather prevails. In a wet
August I have shifted numbers of evergreens of various
kinds, some so large as to tax the energies of three
men, and not a plant showed the slightest sign of
flagging, either at the time of moving or later. Long
before leaf -fall, big deciduous shrubs have been shifted,
and they, too, remained perfectly happy. Shrub-
lovers are far too nervous about shifting. It is this
fear that leads to overcrowding. When new gardens

RHODODENDRON MRS. K. G. SHAW.

Pale blush with large maroon blob h.
For notes on Rhododendri Part IV.

to by R. A. Malby.

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MISTAKES IN CULTURE 51

are being made by people of limited means many good
sites which are to be planted eventually with shrubs
or herbaceous plants can be filled with annual crops —
plain vegetables such as potatoes, perhaps — for three
or four years. Such beds as are planted at the outset
with shrubs and herbaceous perennials can then be
fully furnished at once so as to get immediate effects,
and when the things begin to crowd thinning can be
practised, and new permanent beds formed. This is
an economical way of making a garden and the interest
is prolonged.

The reason why shrubs often fail under the shifting
ordeal is that insufficient care is taken to lift them with
a " ball " of moist earth round the roots. Perhaps,
too, the roots are left exposed for some time. See the
remarks on this subject in Chapter X., where the best
methods and the best times of moving the most
important shrubs are stated.

Mistakes in planting are not more common than
mistakes in pruning. In case " mistake " suggests
something active, I had better substitute " neglect,"
for it is the passive attitude towards pruning which
is generally responsible for the trouble that ensues. To
put it in another way, more shrubs suffer from no
pruning at all than from bad pruning. The habit
of an ordinary garden Raspberry gives the cue for the
pruning of the vast majority of leaf -losing shrubs, and
just as the Raspberry forms weaker and weaker shoots
as, under neglect, it becomes crowded with old wood,
so do many shrubs suffer in their growth if the old stems
are not removed periodically. I do not mean that the

52 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

shrubs do not become thick, indeed, they become
masses of wood ; what I mean is that the energy of the
plant is dissipated on a large quantity of small, thin
shoots, none of which is capable of producing good
flowers.

The shrub-grower can learn the flowering habit of
his shrubs by merely looking at them while they are
in bloom. A simple process, surely, and a pleasant.
All that he has to do is to see whether the flowers of the
spring-flowering kinds are borne on the young or the
old wood, and his course is clear. If on the young wood
— as most are — all that he has to do is to cut out the
old and encourage new wood. The difference in the
colour and texture of the bark would serve to dis-
tinguish old wood from young, even if the shrubs were
not in bloom, but the thing to do is to study the habit
of the plants while they are in flower, then there can
be no mistake. By " young wood " I do not mean, in
the case of the spring bloomers, shoots of the current
year's growth, but shoots formed the previous year.
This is the wood that gives the season's flowers. The
young shoots that spring from the base of the plants
will give the bloom of the following year.

From the pruner's point of view, shrub-wood is old
directly it has gone out of flower, and there is no reason
why it should not be cut away soon after the flowering
is over in the case of those kinds which bloom best on
one-year-old wood. The longer it is left, indeed, the
more risk there is of its being forgotten.

In dealing with long-neglected shrubs, the first thing
is to get rid of the accumulations of hard, dark, hide-

MISTAKES IN CULTURE 53

bound wood, several years old, which disputes place
with the softer, paler young shoots. In shrubs that
are pruned regularly there are no such accumulations,
and the bush is always young.

There may be — there probably will be — cases in
which cutting away the older wood right to its base
means sacrificing a certain amount of young wood that
has grown from the upper part instead of direct from
the root. Here judgment is necessary. It may be
desirable to leave the lower part of an old shoot for
the sake of retaining a young shoot growing on it.
But, broadly speaking, the old wood should go after
flowering in most cases. For details see Chapter XIII.

Do many failures arise in consequence of the absence
of provision for special composts ? I should be dis-
posed to assess this as one of the least common of the
causes of failure. The majority of shrubs, whether
evergreen or deciduous, do not call for special composts.
Rhododendrons like peat, it is true, and they share
this liking with their close allies the Azaleas, with
Heaths, and with the majority of American shrubs
and other members of the Ericaceae ; but modern
experience goes to show that Rhododendrons, in
common with many other peat-lovers, will thrive in
loam, provided it is well drained and friable. They
are not suited to clay, because this soil is apt to be
dense. When, however, clay is made crumbly with
additions of peat, leaf mould and wood ashes, it
becomes suitable.

The matter of special composts may be considered in
connection with hardiness. The rank and file of hardy

54 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

shrubs and trees thrive in any fairly deep and sub-
stantial garden soil, such as loam or clay. The great
majority do well on limestone if there is a foot or more
of soil above the chalk ; and most evergreens, other
than the Ericaceae, are quite at home on shallow
limestone soils, knitting their roots into chalk
contentedly. But there are some kinds of imperfect
hardiness in northern climes which are favoured
by warm, friable, fertile soil, such as loam lightened
with sand or leaf mould. The requirements of
particular kinds are noted in Part IV.

CHAPTER VIII.

Practical Considerations in Planting Shrubs

and Trees — Forms of Beds and Borders —

Landscape Effects — Backgrounds.

We have seen in earlier chapters that several important
purposes are served by shrubs and trees, and that more
particularly we can obtain by their use beautiful spring
pictures in the garden. Let us now go a step farther,
and consider those details which arise out of projects
for the extended use of this great class. The choice of
site, the shape and area of beds and borders, the
selection and arrangement of the kinds — all these
matters must have consideration.

Areas that are to be planted with shrubs and trees
must be considered in relation to everything else in
the garden and its surroundings, if only by reason of
the space which the plants occupy and the plane on
which they grow. The shrub-planter, in fine, has a
greater responsibility on his shoulders than his fellow
amateur who is engrossed in one special flower and
concerns himself solely with growing it to the standard
recognised in his particular circle. Beds of Daffodils,
of Tulips, of Carnations, of Roses, even of Sweet Peas
and Dahlias, owe no particular debt to the landscape.

55

56 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

They are not gardening at all in its true sense. But
shrubs and trees are on a different footing. They
cannot be worked on the watertight compartment
system. They are not merely themselves, they are
also an active, inseparable part of the garden. They
are linked up with all its other sections.

It is this distinction which puts the shrub-planter
under a definite obligation. It forces him to consider
the landscape, the surroundings. It makes him plan.
It may be that he is forming a new garden. If he were
merely going to grow vegetables, plant fruit trees and
devote the rest of his attention to one flower, he could
afford to feel his way. But directly the formation of
beds and borders for shrubs and trees is decided upon
a definite plan of procedure becomes desirable. The
present volume embraces pictorial suggestions for
help in that matter.

Because sites at the side of paths, lawns and water
are good for shrub-borders the planting of shrubs must
be considered in connection with paths, lawns and water.
Because trees rise to altitudes which bring them into
relationship with the landscape the planting of trees
must be considered in connection with the landscape.
Observe that these points have nothing to do with the
questions of shade and shelter, which are separate
considerations.

But one reader or another may say that questions of
landscape at least do not come into his case, because
his garden is enclosed, or he may desire to shut out all
external features, which are objectionable ; what then ?
The task is simplified, but the case for a ground plan

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS 57

holds good, because the shrubs and trees will still have
to be considered in relation to the house, paths, lawn
and water.

We may first consider shrubs and trees in relation
to the house. One consideration certainly is that a
considerable proportion of the planting shall be in
view from the principal windows. At once our
thoughts go to the lawn and its surroundings, because
grass is the most appropriate covering for the area
immediately in front of, and often beside, the house.
It is a common mistake to cut up a considerable part
of the front area of a lawn for flower-beds. There
should always be a broad stretch of green between
the house and the nearest beds. Adopting this
principle of pushing away the beds, we may eventually
decide that the principal features of the lawn shall
lie on the confines in the form of borders.

Here, then, we have something to work upon — a
certain area of ground in view from the principal
windows of the house is to be devoted to lawn, on the
margins of which adequate space is to be left for
borders. Thus we make openings for our trees and
shrubs. We do not arrange that lawn-edge and border
shall form a straight line. We provide for bays and
promontories.

A slight modification of this plan is to set apart a strip
a few feet wide between lawn and border for a path ;
in other words, we do not carry the grass right up
to the shrubs, but provide for a walk to intervene.

The question of path 01 no path may be settled by
the consideration of whether a path is necessary for

58 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

domestic purposes. There must be approaches to the
rear of the house, but it does not follow that there is
any necessity for a path across the front. In most
cases it will probably be found convenient to carry the
lawn right to the border opposite the main front, and to
provide an intervening path at the sides. In cases
where the side walk or road is one used for the coarser
domestic purposes — carting manure and coal, the
passage of tradesmen's vehicles and the like — it may be
completely screened by a belt of shrubs and trees on
the edge of the lawn ; but a path which is used for
ordinary garden purposes alone need not. There
may be beds or borders beside it with open spaces
between. For the farther elucidation of these points
the reader is referred to the plans, in which will be
found cases of lawn and shrubbery with and without
path, and examples of the planting of isolated trees
and beds of shrubs on lawns.

The first phase of the planning problem is disposed
of when the position of paths (under which the reader is
requested to understand also drives and roads) and of
lawn is settled. The second is that of the site, area
and form of the borders and beds. These matters we
will now consider.

Dealing with the area in front of the principal
windows of the house, we may take as our first point
consideration of the following questions : do we
want to obscure the view beyond the garden boundary
because of something uninteresting or unsightly, or
do we want to keep it exposed — to " work it in with
the landscape " ?

*

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS 59

If the view is to be limited to the confines of the
garden and exterior objects shut out, it may or may not
be desirable to plant tall-growing trees somewhat
closely. If the ground outside falls away, and the
undesirable objects are low, many tall trees will not be
needed, the lower flowering trees will suffice in the main ;
but if the ground is high, or the objects to be hidden are
lofty, then tall trees are called for. In cases where
ugly factory chimneys or other tall unsightly objects
are in view from the house, quick-growing trees are
called for. Poplars may be thought of, not alone the
stiff, cylindrical Lombardy variety, but the more
spreading Black or Austrian and the White or Abele ;
likewise the Sycamore. The Oak, the Beech and the
Elm are noble trees, but their growth is slower.

Whenever it is desired to shut out an ugly object
as quickly as possible, the temptation to plant a close
belt comes in, and inasmuch as the Lombardy Poplar
breaks freely into growth from the bole when the head
is cut off at eight or ten feet high it is often planted in
a close rank and topped. The result is a screen, quite
dense when the trees are in leaf, but it is stiff, and is
little better than a glorified hedge. If used it should
be looked at in the light of a tall hedge, not as a real
ornament to the garden, and more interesting things
should be planted in front of it, so that something
better is seen from the house than a belt of Poplars little
more attractive than a row of telegraph poles or a
range of huts.

The shutting in of a house with trees must be
considered in various ways. Shade and shelter have

6o GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

their claims, but take care that they do not degenerate
into gloom and enervating closeness. There is often
one particularly exposed quarter, where, at certain
periods of the year, cold winds rage, pinching the plants
and making the residents uncomfortable. By all
means let that quarter be given tree-shelter. Again,
there may be one part where something ugly shows
up, or (with the presence of building land outside)
may be expected to show up. By all means let that
be screened too. But do not let any belt-planting,
which may be called for ir such circumstances, be the
signal for the wholesale planting of Poplars, Sycamores,
and such like close to the house.

Where trees envelop a garden on a low site there is
likely to be an enervating atmosphere for long periods,
and during the winter there is gloom and damp. I
admit that such gardens have their moments of joy.
In spells of hot, dry, summer weather, they are veritable
havens of shade and peace. But there are other times.

Broadly speaking, the system of belt -planting near
a house is objectionable, and should only be resorted to
for a particular purpose. Except for that definite
object, the planting of trees in gardens finds nobler
expression in choosing special sites for individual
specimens and groups farther away from the building.

Assuming that no screen-belt or shelter-belt of quick-
growing trees is required, shall there be no tall trees
on the confines of the place in front of the house ? I
think that in all places of moderate and Jarge size
provision should be made for planting a suitable
number of tall trees such as Oak, Beech, Chestnut,

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS 61

Birch, Elm, Maple and Poplar ; and some of these
should come in front of the house. There are, too,
the Conifers to consider — the Cedars, the Pines, the
Firs. The large deciduous trees, such as the Oak
and Beech, might be planted in groups or singly,
thirty to forty yards apart ; the Conifers in groups
a few feet apart or in some cases singly. The effects of
group and single planting are described in Chapter
XIII., where pruning is dealt with.

When the sites for the large trees have been chosen
those for the small ornamental-leaved and flowering
trees may be found. These may be set as near as
six to eight yards apart. Almonds, Pyrus spectabilis,
Plums, Cherries, the dark-leaved Prunus Pissardii,
Pyrus Malusfloribunda, Lilacs, Thorns, Crabs, Robinias,
Magnolias and variegated Maples will all provide
welcome colour of leaf or bloom. The Pyrus family 5
which includes the Apple and Crab, is pre-eminently
beautiful when in bloom, and there is real beauty in
the fruits of the Crabs when they line the branches
almost from base to tip in those seasons when they
bear well. The dual beauty of some of the Thorns
must also be remembered. Some of the single-
flowered varieties berry freely and are very ornamental
in late summer. The double Thorns are magnificent
when in full bloom. In order to get as long a period
of beauty as possible it is well to plant the various
kinds alternately.

There is no appreciable amount of shade and drip
from the low-growing ornamental trees when planted
in the way advised, and shrubs, both flowering and

62 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

coniferous, may be planted among them. The shrubs
should not be set close up to the stems of the trees.
There is always the temptation to plant up too close to
trees on tall, clean standard stems. Fruit-growers
make the mistake and shrub-planters are liable to
imitate it. Shrubs should not be put nearer than four
feet . One may be set directly in front of each standard,
so that the bare stem is hidden.

Several important points arise in connection with
the selection and planting of shrubs. Shall evergreen
or deciduous kinds predominate ? Shall individual
plants or groups of each kind be used ? In what order
shall they be set ?

Deciduous shrubs should predominate where life and
beauty rather than a mere screen are desired. Perhaps
a proportion of two to one may be suggested. There
will then be abundant life in spring and summer,
with a suggestion of substance in winter. A border in
which deciduous shrubs predominate is often rather
ugly than otherwise in winter. It has an unkempt
look. It suggests wildness, untidiness. The main
cause of this is absence of culture. If the shrubs are
properly pruned they will be clean and shapely.
There will be plenty of young, brightly coloured wood,
which will have a cheerful effect. Furthermore, kinds
may be introduced which have boldly coloured stems.
And colonies of cheerful bulbs, such as Scillas,
Anemones, and Winter Aconites, may be planted
among them.

The question whether individual plants or groups
should be planted must turn to some extent upon the

" THE APPLE AND CRAB ARE PRE-EMINENTLY BEAUTIFUL WHEN

IN BLOOM." (See page 61.)

Apple Blossom in a Cottage Garden.

Painted by A. C. Wyatt.

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS 63

space available. The group system has the great
advantage of giving bold, rich masses of colour.
Groups of Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Berberises, Brooms,
Hydrangeas, etc., have a noble effect. Certain plants,
indeed, notably Azaleas, are apt to look ineffective
when set singly. But the owner of a small garden
cannot have the massed effects which are possible in
large places, and would make a mistake to strain at
them. He will do better to strive for good single
specimens than to have crowded, ineffectual groups.
One Rhododendron, or Weigela, or Berberis Darwinii,
or Hydrangea, or Spiraea arguta — to mention at the
moment only a few things that form beautiful isolated
plants — will be more satisfying when well grown than a
group of packed and meagre plants. Attention
concentrated on these single plants — attention, I
mean, in providing the right kind of soil, aspect,
shelter and pruning — will be richly rewarded.

With respect to the order in which shrubs should be
set, it may be advised that when the group system is
adopted the face of the border should be deeply
indented, so that a series of bays and promontories is
formed. The richer, bolder things, such as Rhodo-
dendrons, Azaleas, Berberises and Brooms, may
form large promontories ; the more subdued kinds,
such as Spiraeas, the bays. One may imagine
a lawn stretching in front of a house, with an ebb
and flow of shrub-grouping extending along both sides
and the back of the lawn. With selected trees beyond,
and a strictly limited provision of interesting objects
on the lawn, such as specimen trees, shrubs, Pampas

64 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

grass, Bamboos, and possibly a few flower beds, a
beautiful effect would be produced.

In planting individual trees and shrubs it will
probably be found best to work on the " opposite
vacancy " principle. The shrubs are really planted in
lines, but the components of each line do not face the
components of the line behind, they face a vacant
point midway between each pair. This is a common
gardening plan in planting flower-beds and fruit
bushes. It gives order without stiffness. And there
must be system in the border. Let the amateur dump
in his shrubs here, there and everywhere, and in a
few years the shrubbery is a wild hotch-potch. In
improving an unsatisfactory shrubbery I have often
found that the simplest way of starting is to rearrange
the shrubs on the " opposite vacancy " principle.
Afterwards pruning and other cultural details come into
play. To learn the system by the fireside, let the
reader form a square with four pins and then set a
fifth pin in the centre ; he will then have a quincunx.
By repeating the quincunxes he gets the system. He
may, of course, retain it with a straight or a curved
line of planting.

Ground that is to carry a considerable variety of
trees and shrubs should be well drained. Areas that
are swampy in a wet winter are liable to cause trouble.
A piece of swampy ground can always be made an
interesting feature of a garden, but it is not suitable
for most shrubs and trees. It is rarely, however, that
a piece of ground chosen for a house and garden is of
such a character that it cannot be made suitable. If

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS 65

it were of the shape of a saucer, and water could not be
got away, the gardener would form a pond or lake
where the water naturally collected — at the middle of
the saucer, the banked sides of which he would plant
with shrubs. He would also plant the edges of the
saucer. That, however, is an extreme case. Wet
sites should certainly not be chosen for planting beds
or borders of the principal ornamental shrubs until
the under-water had been taken away from it by means
of drain pipes.

The area of ground for beds and borders may range
from six feet square upwards. But it is desirable to
have freedom for working with reasonable boldness.
Given a strip of border only six feet wide the planter
will find himself handicapped. He can only plant
small kinds. He will, in fact, have to do without all
the great kinds, both deciduous and evergreen ;
and probably he would do well to restrict himself to
small neat evergreens. With twelve feet before him
he is in much better case. Here he can introduce small
standard trees. Here he can get in a few fairly large
kinds. And he can complete his quincunxes by plant-
ing three rows. If he is making a border which will
have only one face he may put his trees and large
shrubs towards the back ; if a border to be seen from
two sides then the larger things must go near the
centre.

The preparation of the ground may well be thorough,
particularly if light, in respect to the depth of work-
ing. If it is well broken up two spades deep and
liberally manured it will carry not only the shrubs but

66 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

also a ground work of bulbous and other flowers. I
have already said, however, that I consider an abundant
supply of moisture for the first year or two the most
important item of culture, provided it is not stagnant
under-water. Trenching and manuring, though good,
are not vital, surface moisture is. Now surface
moisture may be conserved by keeping the surface
either carpeted with close-growing plants or else by
maintaining a loose " crumb " of soil. Exposed soil
should therefore be well dug at least once a year, and
regularly hoed. After heavy summer rains a strong
crop of weeds may be turned over with the digging
fork.

It is prudent to keep shrub beds and borders under
regular cultivation for more reasons than one. In
going among shrubs to hoe in summer the gardener is
reminded of the pruning. He sees the upspringing new
shoots, that will flower the following year, crowded by
the older wood which has recently gone out of bloom,
and consequently he sees the necessity of pruning out
the latter, in accordance with the instructions already
given and amplified in Chapter XIII.

We may devote a little consideration to shrubs and
trees in relation to the paths. Near one or other of the
side boundaries of a garden there is likely to be a path
or road affording access to the kitchen, stables and
garden outbuildings. In a large place this road —
for road it will be — need not be screened on the outside,
if there is park, meadow, or wood beyond it on the
same property. But when it skirts another property
the question of screening it on the outside may have to

THE TREE P/EONIES ARE AMONG THE FINEST OF FLOWERING
SHRUBS. BEARING IMMENSE BLOOMS OF BRILLIANT
COLOURS." (See page 76.)
Paeonia Moutan, Grand Frederic.
Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS 67

be considered. Here a belt of such cheap shrubs and
trees as Laurels, Hollies, Aucubas, Larches, Poplars,
Birches and Austrian Pines may be planted. The
inner or garden side will also have to be screened, and
here the hints already given will apply.

We may, however, go a little farther. In many
gardens there are long inner paths — paths round
lawns, paths along the face of shrubberies, paths
leading to tennis lawns, Rose gardens or rockeries.
Such paths may run for a considerable stretch between
two sections of a lawn, or between a lawn and a
shrubbery. In the former case, particularly, it is
desirable to have objects of interest at intervals — a
bed here, a specimen shrub or tree there, perhaps a
group of Rose or Clematis pillars. These objects give
variety and interest to the garden. Shrubs and trees
may thus be used in relation to paths just as they may
in relation to the house and the lawn.

There remains the water. Ground approaching
water may be planted with things that love humidity-
Bamboos, giant Rhubarb (Rheum paimatum tanghu-
ticum), Meadowsweets, Phormium tenax, ferns, etc.
The banks and island may be planted with Willows,
Royal ferns, Reeds, drooping forms of Beech and other
large trees, Dogwoods, Alders, Tamarisks, Elders,
Bamboos, Gunnera manicata, Pampas Grass, etc.

The main points of water treatment are the planting
of suitable approach groups, the clothing of banks with
appropriate subjects, and the furnishing of islands
with shrubs and trees that have a natural appearance
at the waterside.

68 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The popularity of modern hybrid Water Lilies leads
flower-lovers to seize on any flow of water to form
ponds, and even to devote considerable sums of money
to making artificial pools. In the hot weather of
summer these pools look beautiful when they are
flashing under the sunlight. But their effect is
enhanced when the banks are taken in hand and
planted with groups of suitable shrubs, and with
individual examples of Bamboos, Pampas Grass and
other bold subjects ; still more when islands are
formed in the ponds and planted with pendulous trees.

A small stream may provide the water for such a
pool. The soil excavated to make the bed of a pond
will serve to form the islands. At a suitable place a
rustic bridge may be built over the stream at a point
near the pool.

The lover of Alpine flowers will doubtless do more
than plant shrubs ; he will form tiers of stone and
plant colonies of rock plants. That, however, is
another subject, and is dealt with in the companion
volume," Alpine Flowers and Rock Gardens."

It is in seeking to correlate his planting with the
landscape that the garden-maker may find his most
baffling problem. If the area to be planted is con-
siderable he may be well advised to call in the services
of an experienced landscape gardener, for the matter is
one in which theory is inadequate. Nevertheless,
natural good taste, aided by the illustrations in the
present volume, will do much. Meantime, some
suggestions as to arrangement may be given in another
chapter.

CHAPTER IX.

Arrangement of Shrubs and Trees both for
Shelter and Beauty.

The multitude of shrubs and trees, and the countless
ways in which they may be planted, present a keen
problem for the planter. He has to consider (i) the
balance between shrubs and trees, (2) the proportions
of evergreen and deciduous kinds, (3) blending of
habits and harmonizing of colours, (4) beauty for all
seasons of the year, (5) the respective claims of many
candidates for comparatively few places.

It may facilitate the accomplishment of a difficult
task if we take an imaginary border and work our way
round it, making suggestions for selection and arrange-
ment as we go.

For the sake of completeness we will assume that
shelter is required. Farther, we will assume that a
nice selection of flowering and ornamental-leaved trees
is required for the main area, associated with shrubs of
dense habit for cover. Finally we will assume that
groups of shrubs of brilliant colour or special interest
are wanted for the front.

We work, therefore, on the basis of employing three
distinct areas : at the back, an area of material for
shelter ; in the middle, an area for small trees and

69

Koaa

A SUGGESTION FOR TREATING AN AREA OF GROUND IN
FRONT OF A HOUSE.

The main features are : a central oval of turf ; on the left a wide border
with a series of connected Rose pillars (i to 17) along the middle, and shrubs
on each side, a grass edging and a carriage drive ; in the centre a screen clump
of trees with groundwork of shrubs (18) ; on the right an accommodation
road to the back of the house, a screen of trees (19), and a series of small
flowering trees (20), with a groundwork of shrubs.

70

ARRANGEMENT OF SHRUBS AND TREES 71

cover ; at the front, an area for special shrubs. This
at once gives us something tangible. It provides a
definite idea of procedure.

Needless to say, stiff, rectangular blocks are not
contemplated. Let us work on flowing lines. The
border shall vary in width and shall be broadest at
those parts where, owing to exposure, the most shelter
is required.

First as to this shelter. The planting of rows of
trees has been deprecated. It gives a maximum of
stiffness with a minimum of shelter. Groups are
preferable to lines, and certainly at the points of
greatest exposure clumps should be planted. At other
points the belt may thin down almost to a single line.

The Austrian Pine (Pinus austriaca) is greatly in
demand as a shelter tree on account of its hardiness,
adaptability to most soils, including poor ground}
fairly quick growth and dense habit. The principal
point against it is its sombre appearance. When
planted in quantity, and unrelieved, it is apt to have a
gloomy effect. It is at its worst when planted, as one
sometimes sees it, in a series of straight rows. When
set in groups and brightened by an adjacent cluster of
Silver Birch, an entirely different effect is produced.
The Silver Birch is a graceful tree with clean, straight,
even stems and beautiful bark. It is very hardy, and,
while not quite so much at home as the Austrian Pine
on the worst of soils, it is by no means exacting.

Other Pines than the Austrian are available. Pinus
Lambertiana is one of the hardiest, and revels in the
buffeting of the gales. Ponderosa is a glaucous species

72 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

that will thrive in the poorest soil. Pinaster, the
Cluster Pine, will also do in poor soil, and thrives near
the sea. The Scotch Fir, Pinus sylvestris, is perhaps
the best known of all, and does well on peaty soil.
While the Pines are often effective as specimen trees,
they are best grouped in clusters of five, seven or more,
especially for shelter. Trees of brighter appearance,
such as varieties of Elm and Poplar, may be planted
near them. There are many good varieties of the
common Elm (Ulmus campestris), notably variegata,
a silver-leaved form ; and antarctica aurea, a golden-
leaved form. These make excellent companions to
the Pines. The Necklace Poplar (Populus deltoidea,
commonly known as canadensis) has a beautiful golden
form called aurea, and this makes a good associate for
sombre Pines or for the copper Beech. The last-
named beautiful tree is quite good enough for a garden
specimen, but when considerable areas are available
for the shelter belts it may be planted there, with
bright-leaved trees such as those mentioned adjacent.
Of the Poplars, the white (Abele) is the best for damp
sites, and the black (nigra) for drier places. They are
both hardy trees, and the former often grows into fine
specimens. The black Poplar has dark stems. It can
be made to give low shelter very quickly if planted
as a standard tree, and the head shortened in order
to encourage back breaks ; it then soon forms a
spreading head from eight feet high upwards. The
Lombardy Poplar is a form of it. The Aspen
(P. tremula) isan interesting Poplar with ever-quivering
leaves.

•

ARRANGEMENT OF SHRUBS AND TREES 73

The Evergreen Oak, also known as the Holly or Holm
Oak (Quercus Ilex), may be planted for shelter groups.
It does not grow to a great height, but it is of dense
habit and its foliage is evergreen. This again may be
planted with bright-leaved deciduous trees as a com-
panion, such as one of the Poplars, Elms or Beeches
already mentioned. The deciduous trees give that glow
and play of light and shade in summer which are so
grateful in the garden. The Elms should be planted
sparingly, especially at points near walks and culti-
vated quarters, because in the first place they are
liable to cast their branches, and in the second they
send out large numbers of greedy foraging roots.

The great beauty of Chestnuts when the trees are well
developed must secure them a place among plantings of
large trees. No trees can vie with them for beauty
when they are in full bloom in late spring. But they
are not suited for bleak, windy spots.

Hollies and Robinias (false Acacia) will also be
considered for positions in front of the larger trees.

When more trees are wanted for shelter the Sycamore
may be considered. It is hardy and a fairly free grower.
There are forms with silver- variegated and also with
golden-variegated leaves.

With respect to grouping, it is not suggested that
close masses of deciduous trees should be planted.
Groups of three, five or more trees, the components of
each group set thirty feet apart, will suffice. The
groups of trees, like the single shrubs referred to in
Chapter VIII., may be set quincunx fashion, so that
there are no unprotected openings. But a vista may

74 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

be provided at a selected point. Conifers may be
planted much closer in the groups for the sake of
getting long, clean, beautiful stems.

The question of the outer zone disposed of, we may
turn to the middle area. Here, as we have already seen,
low trees with ornamental leaves, flowers or fruit should
predominate ; and if there is plenty of room they may
be set in groups of three or more, about twenty feet
apart. Associated with each group of ornamental
trees there may be low shrubs, mainly evergreen, for
ground cover. The following are suggestions for
groups of trees and cover : (i) Pyrus floribunda (syn.
Malus floribunda) with the evergreen Box (Buxus
sempervirens). This Pyrus is a particularly beautiful
flowering tree, one of the special charms of which are its
bright red buds. It is hardy, blooms in May, and with
time grows to about fifteen feet high on a standard
stem, forming a large spreading head. It may,
however, be grown as a bush. The fruits are round.
There is a beautiful semi-double form of it called
Scheideckeri, which is also well worth grouping ;
and there is a double. There are likewise several
forms of the Box, including silvery (argentea) and
golden (aurea). (2) Crimson Thorn with ground of
Berberis Darwinii. The best double red Thorns, such
as Paul's Scarlet, have large, richly coloured flowers,
and are very beautiful when in bloom in May. They
do not quickly grow to a large size. There are also
pink and white varieties. Berberis Darwinii is one of
the most beautiful of all evergreen shrubs, and its
condition when growing exposed in poor soil affords

" THE ALMOND, ONE OF THE EARLIEST TREES TO BLOOM, AND

IN MILD WINTERS MAY BE IN FLOWER IN FEBRUARY."

(See page 77.)

It is here shown, with Prunus Pissardii.

Painted by Josephine Gundry.

Z^&L»-

ARRANGEMENT OF SHRUBS AND TREES 75

no comparison with its beauty when grown in shelter.
Then it produces side shoots freely and is covered with
brilliant orange-yellow flowers. (3) Amelanchier cana-
densis (Botryapium) and cover of Laurustinus. The
Amelanchier is very pretty when clothed with white
bloom in spring, and its coloured foliage and purple
fruits make it ornamental in autumn. The Laurus-
tinus is one of the most useful of small evergreens,
very dense in growth, thriving on almost any soil, with
bright, ornamental leaves and white flowers in winter
or early spring. (4) Prunus (Cerasus) Padus, the Bird
Cherry and cover of Snowberry (Symphoricarpus
racemosus). The Bird Cherry blossoms abundantly
in spring, when the heads are a sheet of white bloom.
The Snowberry grows very densely, and becomes
studded with white berries the size of marbles.
(5)Laburnum, with cover of Euony mus j aponicus . The
Laburnum is almost too well known to need any
description. The Euony mus is a good evergreen, and
thrives well near the sea. Most planters prefer
the golden, white-margined or yellow-margined forms,
which are beautiful shrubs of dense growth, lighting
up the garden beautifully in winter. (6) Lilac, with
cover of Osmanthus ilicifolius. The ordinary Lilac
is quite suitable for the purpose in view, although the
better garden forms — which are often reserved for
bush or pot culture — may be planted at will. The
Osmanthus is a Holly-like evergreen with a good many
garden forms, including purple-leaved and variegated.
(7) The Snowball tree, or Guelder Rose, Viburnum
opulus sterile, grouped with Spiraea arguta. The

76 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Snowball tree bears abundance of round white heads of
non-fertile flowers in early summer. It does not
grow to a great height. The Spiraea is one of the best
of the shrubbery forms, growing to an average height
of three or four feet, with graceful foliage and white
flowers. (8)Prunus Pissardii (syn. cerasifera atro-
purpurea of botanists) with Tree Paeonies. The
brown-leaved Prunus is one of the most familiar of
specimen standard trees, thriving in most soils and in
suburban gardens. It bears abundance of white
flowers in spring. The Tree Paeonies are among the
finest of flowering shrubs, bearing immense blooms of
brilliant colour. (9) Pyrus prunifolia, the Siberian
Crab, with Spiraea ariaefolia. The Siberian Crab is a
very hardy tree, with white flowers in spring and yellow
and red astringent fruits in summer. There are several
garden varieties, which may be planted instead if
preferred. (10) A large flowered garden Apple, such as
Bramley's Seedling, and Mock Oranges (Philadelphus).
The Apple named is one of the most vigorous of all
garden and orchard varieties and will grow in almost
any soil. The dwarf er hybrid Mock Oranges, such as
Avalanche, Boule d' Argent and Lemoinei, are more
suitable than the tall species, (n) The Mountain
Ash or Rowan (Pyrus Aucuparia) and Veronicas. The
Mountain Ash is particularly ornamental when in
berry. One of the best of the many Veronicas is
Hectori, which has lilac flowers in summer. Speciosa,
violet ; and Traversii, white, are also good. The last
will grow almost anywhere. (12) Pyrus spectabilis
and Berberis aquifolium (Mahonia aquifolia). The

ARRANGEMENT OF SHRUBS AND TREES 77

Pyrus is one of the most beautiful of all flowering trees,
bearing abundance of large rosy flowers in spring.
With shelter and in good soil it may make a tree twenty
feet high or more. There are several garden forms,
one (magnifica) with large flowers, another double.
The Barberry is the well known covert plant, which
thrives in shade. The foliage is very dark in colour.
The berries are purple. (13) Almond fPrunus Amyg-
dalus amara) and Berberis stenophylla. The Almond is
one of the earliest trees to bloom and in mild winters
may be in flower in February. The pink flowers are
borne profusely. Berberis stenophylla is a beautiful
evergreen, with long, graceful shoots laden with yellow
flowers.

Other favourite ornamental trees may be planted
with shrub companions on the lines suggested above.
Where only one tree is planted it should be given, if
possible, a bevy of three shrubs, one in front of the tree
stem, the others rather farther back and forming a
triangle with the tree. Each tree should have a strong
stake, put in at the time of planting. It is important
that the stake be firm, and if necessary an opening
into the subsoil should be made for the pointed end
with the aid of a crowbar after the hole for the tree has
been made. The stake should then be driven down with
a mallet . It is desirable that the top of the stake should
come just within the head of the tree, as then the edge
cannot chafe the tree stem. As a further precaution, a
piece of old cycle tube may be wrapped round the stem
when the tree is tied to the stake. With the hole
made deep enough to cover the roots, and the soil well

78 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

rammed in, the firmness and steadiness that are so
desirable are secured.

Having accomplished two stages of our task, let us
now turn to the front area. In some respects this is the
most important. Here, if anywhere, will come our
mounds and bays of brilliant colour. Here, too, may
be planted small, choice or new shrubs, which it is
important shall be immediately under the eye, and not
overgrown by stronger objects.

In some cases the front area will be planted with
the best of the herbaceous plants dealt with in the
sister volume, "Hardy Perennials and Herbaceous
Borders," but our present study is the shrubs.

In cases where Rhododendrons and hardy Azaleas
are not planted in lawn beds our first task must be to
provide for them in the border. The great hybrid
Rhododendrons are, however, large, and it would be
preferable to group them in lawn beds, whether as
single specimens or massed. Under conditions favour-
able to them, Rhododendrons would grow to such
proportions as to obscure most of the trees and shrubs
in the middle area, indeed, if they are to be grown in
mixed borders of shrubs it would be well to give them
that zone, with no background beyond that of the large
trees. Some of the species and hybrids would, how-
ever, be quite suitable for the front belt, notably
hirsutum, prsecox and the mauve-coloured Early Gem.

The beautiful hybrid Azaleas of the Mollis and
Sinensis sections suggest themselves at once as admir-
able shrubs for the front zone, as they are of low,
bushy growth, bloom profusely, and embrace a number

" THE PYRUS (SPECTABILIS) IS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL

OF ALL FLOWERING TREES."

(See page 77).

The double form is here shown. Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

ARRANGEMENT OF SHRUBS AND TREES 79

of beautiful shades not to be found in any other hardy
shrub. Planted about four feet apart in a group, they
will make glorious masses of colour in June and pro-
montories of them may be formed at intervals along the
border.

The Forsythias must be included, because of their
abundant production of yellow flowers very early in
the year in advance of the leaves.

Nothing is more delightful than a group of Daphnes,
which may be placed at a point near the lawn or path,
partly because of their delicious perfume, which people
who walk in the garden will be constantly stooping to
inhale. There are several varieties of the old dark red
Mezereum, and the white may be associated with the
red if desired.

A beautiful little evergreen shrub for a peaty bed
(but it will thrive in loam) is Menziesia or Daboecia
polifolia, which is allied to the Heaths. Ineffective
as a single plant, it is charming in a colony, the members
planted two or three feet apart. The white variety
should be associated with the purple, for it is equally
beautiful.

The Weigela or Diervilla differs from the foregoing
in being of tall, loose habit, but a place must be found
for one or two of the best varieties, because it flowers
profusely and is very showy. When there is plenty
of young wood in the bush it may be expected to be a
mass of bloom almost from the ground to the tip. It
will thrive in almost any soil.

The Brooms give us a set of beautiful plants of
graceful habit, the most showy of which is the brown

80 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

and yellow variety of Cytisus scoparius called
Andreanus. A group of this should be planted, if
possible, for it has a very lively effect. Other good
Brooms are Cytisus praecox, yellow ; and C. albus,
white, the former very early.

Of the brighter Spiraeas, none is better for making a
group at the front of a border than Anthony Waterer,
which is a crimson variety of the popular species
japonica. It grows about a yard high and blooms
profusely in summer.

The Hydrangeas, as we have seen in a previous
chapter, never look better than when mature plants
are established in large tubs, stood for the summer
at the waterside or in other selected places. They just
lack complete hardiness; nevertheless, colonies grow
naturalised in some southern gardens, and a group of
some good variety of Hortensis should be planted in
the border. Their duration of bloom is remarkable.
The white variety of paniculata called grandiflora is
hardy and looks well planted over Rubus odorata,
which has dark bronzy leaves.

The Olearias are often represented by stellulata
(Eurybia Gunniana), a beautiful pure white species,
and this shrub is well worthy of a place at the front
of the border. Haastii is also very useful, blooming
freely in summer, but it requires more room.

Various deciduous Spiraeas should be planted,
notably Thunbergi, palmata (red) and Aitchisoni, for
they are of graceful habit.

Few deciduous shrubs have been more largely
planted in recent years than Buddleia variabilis

ARRANGEMENT OF SHRUBS AND TREES 81

Veitchiana, a plant of vigorous growth, which bears
large panicles of lavender flowers in summer. This
noble plant should have a sheltered site, and
it may be given a corner position where it can
develop freely, as it may grow to twelve feet high or
more.

The Ceanothuses are frequently reserved for wall
culture, but they look well in the border, and one of the
finest forms is the variety of azureus called Gloire
de Versailles.

Lavender should not be forgotten. Apart from its
perfume, it is quite decorative.

The foregoing embrace but a small part of the
material in the way of beautiful shrubs and trees which
await the grower. Nevertheless, the suggestions given
may be helpful as showing how, by proceeding on an
intelligible system, representatives of the best kinds
may be brought into use, not only for individual effect,
but for making a collective and cumulative display.
Proceeding on a similar system, the shrub-lover who
has ample space may make more and more
beds and borders, until he has formed a collection
of the best kinds, all grown under conditions which
give them an opportunity of displaying their true
merits.

In addition to the kinds mentioned in the foregoing
paragraphs, many beautiful shrubs and small trees not
commonly met with can be worked in. The following
are all beautiful ; the letter p indicates that a good deal
of peat is required. For descriptive details of all the
kinds see Part IV.

82

GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Evergreen.

ft Andromeda (Pieris) floribimda.
ft Andromeda polifolia.

Camellia Sasanqua (wall).

Carpenteria californica.

Choisya ternata.
ft Daphne Blagayana.
ft Daphne Cneorum.
ft Desfontainea spinosa.

Embothrium coccineum.
ft Epigaea repens.

Escallonia Langleyensis.
ft Fabian a imbricata.
ft Pernettyas.

Piptanthus nepalensis.

Tricuspidaria dependens.

Deciduous.

Cercis Siliquastrum (Judas
Tree).

Chionanthus retusus.

Deutzia Lemoinei.

Enkianthus campanulatus.

Eucryphia pinnatifolia.

Exochorda grandiflora.

Fremontia californica.

Fuchsia Riccartoni.

Halesia tetraptera (Snowdrop
Tree).

Hamamelis mollis (Witch
Hazel.)

Hibiscus syriacus in variety.

Hydrangea paniculata grandi-
flora.

Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip

Tree).
Loropetalum chinense.
Magnolia stellata.
Rubus deliciosus.
Spiraea prunifolia flore pleno.
Staphylea colchica.
Stuartia pentagyna.
Stuartia Pseudo-camellia.
Styrax Japonica.
Styrax Obassia.
Tamarix hispida aestivalis.
Viburnum plicatum.

CHAPTER X.

Moving Shrubs and Trees.

When one sees the things done in the great botanic
gardens and by large nurserymen in the way of shifting
trees, one wonders whether there is any limit to the
powers of arboreal experts. They almost remind us
of the strange deeds of American house-shifters, who
transfer whole dwellings en bloc from one site to another.
Little is thought of shifting a tree twenty feet high,
with a bole nearly a foot through. It is merely a
question of labour and tackle. A considerable block
of earth is taken with the tree, and very few roots are
left behind. Every gardener likes to shift with what
he calls " a good ball." The ball is the mass of roots
with adhering earth. Well, the ball in the case of some
tree-lifting which goes on is a mass weighing, with the
tree, several tons.

The great compensation for the labour involved in
isolating and hoisting such a mass is that practically all
the roots are secured and the tree hardly feels the shift.
The labour is really considerable. A trench is cut all
round when the area of the ball has been marked out.
An approach is made to the cube on one side. This
approach is a slope dipping from the ground level to
the base of the cube. Stout planks are worked beneath.

83

84 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The ball is thus isolated. Canvas is wrapped round the
mass, ropes attached, and the hoisting and swinging
tackle hooked on. Provision is made for maintaining
the equilibrium of the tree with guy ropes. When all
this has been done it is merely a question of power for
getting the mass out of the ground.

Operations of this kind have the interest that
attaches to all big things, but they are not likely to
come within the practical experience of most garden-
lovers. Such shifting of shrubs and trees as is done in
ordinary gardens is limited to moving things that are
within the powers of two or three men. The main
object of the present chapter is to urge that courage
should be exercised when a serious mistake in shrub or
tree planting has been made, and that before the owner
makes up his mind that it must be permanent he should
carefully, but at the same time boldly, consider the
situation. Resignation in the perpetuation of an error
should be the last resource of a true garden-lover.

There may be cases in which an amateur wishes to
make changes when the shrubs or trees have become
large. He has several things to consider. To begin
with, can he expect the plants to move safely ? If
there is the least doubt he will be prudent to consult
an expert. Assuming that an encouraging reply is
received, the further question arises, will it be true
economy to shift, in view of the fact that a special
machine or tackle, and the services of several men will
be necessary ? It may help to solve this problem if
the expert is prepared to give an estimate for the work.
A nurseryman who is used to shifting large shrubs and

MOVING SHRUBS AND TREES 85

trees can calculate the time that a particular job would
take, the number of men, the character of the appli-
ances, and the quantity of horse labour that would be
needed. Thus situated, he is able to say what the whole
undertaking would cost.

A reasonable limit for the powers of an ordinary
garden staff might be set at trees eight feet high with
boles four inches thick, and shrubs fifteen feet in
circumference. The writer has not hesitated to operate
on sub j ects of these dimensions wit h three assistants, with
the ordinary tools of a garden and with a sheet of strong
canvas. First a trench has been cut a yard from the
stem all round the plant and a foot deep. This enables
an idea of the rootstock to be formed. If it is compact
and fibrous the problem becomes one of straight-
forward labour alone. If there are a great many thick,
spreading roots matters are complicated. Nearly all
evergreens have a fine fibrous root system, but most
deciduous trees have a coarse spreading root system.
Those who have the shifting of a large deciduous tree
in view might cut round it a few months beforehand
and ram in some good loamy soil, in order to encourage
the formation of fresh fibrous roots. With these to
support the tree there need be no hesitation in cutting
through the stronger roots two or three feet from the
stem, as the tree can do without them. If shifting
has to be done at short notice, so that the tree cannot
be fortified by preliminary preparation, the operator
must do the best he can. He must not expect to secure
all of the existing roots if the tree has been standing a
few years, for they will have spread in various directions

86 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

and some may be fairly deep ; but he should try to
preserve all the shorter roots near the bole, particu-
larly the fibrous ones, and two feet or more of the
others.

It will be wise to prune back the branches before
replanting.

The great majority of evergreens " move " quite
readily, as stated in Chapter VII. There is scarcely a
period of the year when they will not endure removal,
provided air and soil are moist, but one would hardly
be disposed to try experiments when they were in full
bloom. There is no better time to shift Rhododendrons,
for example, than mid-spring, although the flower-buds
are plump. That would not be the best time to remove
deciduous spring-flowering shrubs, because they would
be filling with young leaf ; but this class can be
removed with complete success in a wet spell after
midsummer when the new growth for the year is
complete, yet the leaves still on. One great advantage
of moving in advance of leaf-fall is that a correct idea
can be formed of what the shrub really is. There is a
vast difference in the summer and winter aspect of, say,
a Weigela. In winter the shrub is a mere frame-
work of ribs, and does not occupy nearly so much
space as when furnished with full flesh and blood. No
doubt a good many mistakes are made in planting
deciduous shrubs because this difference is not taken
into sufficient account.

The three vital things in the success of summer
shrub-lifting are : (i) moisture both of soil and atmo-
sphere ; (2) securing a good ball ; (3) working quickly.

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88 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Without moisture it would be difficult to get a good
ball, except when operating on a very retentive soil ;
there would be a considerable, and perhaps disastrous,
crumbling away. Given moisture, the mass of roots
and adhering soil is quite homogeneous. Sure of his
position, the operator may even trim the edges of the
ball so as to get rid of superfluous soil, but he must do
this with circumspection. The ball should not be left
exposed, but wrapped in the canvas, carried away and
replanted at once.

My own plan is first to make the hole of the size
which I judge the ball will require, then to carry a mat
or cloth to the shrub and directly it is lifted to wrap it in
the cloth and carry it away for planting. At the
planting site ball and hole are made to fit each other,
mainly by application to the hole, possibly, however, in
part by trimming the ball.

How can we get the desired " ball " ? First by
operating in or after a spell of wet weather ; next, by
working round the shrub in a circle with the spade to
a depth of a foot or so and half a yard or thereabouts
from its centre, more or less according to its size, and
then undermining it. The shrub will come away the
more readily if one workman pulls steadily at a point
opposite to the spadesman. It is well to have a chopper
at hand in case any strong roots are found. The shrub
will not be injured if these are severed a foot or more
away from the tree. Such roots are more likely
to be found on deciduous than on evergreen shrubs,
most of which produce thick masses of fine fibrous
roots.

9o GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

If the wet spell which encouraged the undertaking
should change suddenly to a dry one, it would be wise
to syringe the plants for a few days.

The general moving of shrubs and trees is done
between November and March inclusive. But winter
moving is not the best in retentive ground, because the
soil is apt to be sticky and when trodden in (and firm
soil is an advantage) binds into a close mass almost
impervious to air. In such soil the grower should
transplant as early in autumn as possible, or in springy
if circumstances are not favourable, or if courage is
insufficient for the heroic measure of summer shifting.

Let him beware at all seasons and in all soils, but
especially in winter on retentive soils, of " puddling in "
shrubs and trees by turning the soil into a paste. It is
not merely unnecessary, it is highly dangerous. But
firm planting is good ; so long as the soil is friable and
crumbly there is little fear of its being made too hard.

The following is a summary of the periods of planting
the principal kinds : —

Evergreens generally. — Late summer in showery
weather, or mid- April.

Rhododendrons. — Mid- April to mid-May.

Bamboos. — May.

Laurels and Hollies. — September or April.

Deciduous shrubs and trees generally. — Late summer
in showery weather, failing that, any time up to the end
of March, but preferably November.

Magnolias. — Early autumn or mid-spring.

CHAPTER XI.

Propagation of Shrubs and Trees.

Nearly all the various methods of propagation brought
into play for other kinds of plants are applied to the
propagation of the different shrubs and trees. Seeds,
cuttings, grafts, buds and layers are all used. Division
is practised a little.

Seed-sowing is the natural method of propagation,
and is suitable with fixed species, but not with hybrids
and varieties. The point is not that these garden
forms refuse to ripen seed in every case, but that the
resulting plants are not true to type. For instance,
seed would be quite suitable for propagating Larch,
because it is a fixed species, and the seedlings are not likely
to show any important variation from the parent ; but
seed would not be appropriate for propagating Rhodo-
dendron Pink Pearl, because it is a garden form of which
seedlings would be likely to show reversions to inferior
forms. It is largely because cuttings, grafts, buds and
layers can be relied on to come true that they are
used.

There are different stages for cuttings. In some
cases it is best to use soft wood ; in others wood that is
moderately firm, but not hard, and generally spoken of
as " half-ripe," in others again firm, ripe, brown wood.

92 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The cuttings, of whatever nature, may in some
cases be inserted out of doors, but more often must be
under glass, with or without heat.

As regards grafting, the method may be splice, whip,
wedge or saddle grafting. The grafting may be done
with or without heat.

These differences show that the subject of propa-
gating trees and shrubs cannot be dismissed in a few
words, and that it calls for detailed attention. At the
same time, the fact may be admitted that there are a
great many shrub lovers to whom it is not of direct
interest. Those who have small places, with all the
shrub area filled, may be more concerned with thinning
out shrubs than with raising more.

In some cases the same kind may be propagated in
different ways, and each table should be examined.

A. — Seeds.

We have seen that seed is the natural method of
increase for true species. In most cases it should be
sown as soon as it is ripe, but Rose hips may be laid in
sand till spring.

Nurserymen and foresters raise Larch and other
common trees in the open ground, but all the better
things are best sown under glass, if only in a cold frame
or pit. A fine bed of friable, gritty soil should be
prepared. The seed may be sown in drills six inches
apart. Seed approximating in size to that of a Turnip
or Radish may be covered half an inch deep j seed near
the size of a Pea two inches deep. Dust-like seed
should be covered with the barest film of soil or sand,

PROPAGATION OF SHRUBS AND TREES

93

or even left uncovered. It is an advantage to use
shallow pans for sowing where the quantity is very-
small, as they economize soil ; but boxes and pots
may be used. One serious disadvantage in raising
shrubs and trees from seed to the flower-lover whose
glass is limited is the long time which elapses between
sowing and germination. It is not in every garden
that a frame or pit can be spared for several months ;
and the time may run to years.

In some cases seed does not ripen in this country
and imported seed must be used.

Species of the following kinds may be raised from
seed : see other columns for varieties :

Acer.

Cephalotaxus.

Alder.

Cercis.

Amelanchier.

Chionanthus.

Andromeda.

Citrus.

Araucaria.

Colutea.

Arbutus.

Conifers.

Arctostaphylos.

Cornus.

Ash.

Coronilla.

Beech.

Cotoneaster.

Caesalpinia.

Crataegus.

Calophaca.

Cupressus.

Caragana.

Decaisnea.

Carpenteria.

Dirca.

Carpinus.

Elseagnus.

Carya.

Elm.

Caryopteris.

Embothrium coccineum

Catalpa.

Eucalyptus.

Ceanothus.

Exochorda.

Cedar.

Fothergilla.

Celastrus.

Gaultheria.

Celtis.

Ginkgo.

94

GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS.

Gleditschia.

Gymnocladus.

Gynerium (in heat).

Halesia.

Halimodendron.

Hedysarum.

Hippophas.

Honeysuckle.

Idesia.

Indigofera.

Itea.

Jamesia.

Juglans (Walnut).

Koelreuteria.

Laburnum.

Larch.

Laurus.

Leycesteria.

Libocedrus.

Lime.

Liriodendron.

Magnolia (in heat).

Myrica.

Neviusia.

Notospartium.

Oak.

Olea.

Olearia.

Ononis.

Osteomeles.

Oxydendron.

Paliurus.

Pernettya.

Pieris.

Piptanthus.

Plane.

Podocarpus.

Polygonum.

Potentilla.

Prinos.

Prunus.

Ptelea.

Pterocarya.

Pyrus.

Rhamnus.

Rose.

Rosemary.

Ruscus.

Sciadopitys.

Skimmia.

Sophora (in heat).

Spartium.

Stuartia.

Symphoricarpus.

Taxodium.

Taxus (Yew).

Thuja.

Torreya.

Trochodendron.

Tsuga.

Vaccinium.

Xanthoceras.

Zelkova.

Zenobia.

B— Half-ripe Cuttings with Heat.
What the propagator calls " half-ripe " cuttings are
pieces of shoot a few weeks old ; they are not green tips,

" THE GREAT RHODODENDRONS GROUPED IN LAWN BEDS."

(See page 77.)

Pink Pearl at Kew.

Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

METHODS OF PROPAGATING SHRUBS.

A. — A young wood cutting of Honeysuckle, (i) point of detachment with a
slip of the older wood ; B, a half ripe cutting of Ivy ; C, a ripe cutting of Ribes
or Rose ; D, a shoot of Clematis showing proper point of detachment at (3)
for an internodal cutting ; nodal cuttings (2) are best for most plants, but
not for Clematises ; E, layer of Rhododendron or Magnolia (4) point of
notching (5) peg, (6) stem of parent plant.

95

96

GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

nor are they firm woody pieces. They can be taken
from leading or side-shoots and are generally made
about four inches long and inserted firmly about a
third of their depth in very sandy soil. Most cuttings
are taken just underneath a joint or node, because it is
found that roots start freely from a node, but in a few
cases_and the Clematis is a conspicuous example— it is
better to make what is called an internodal cutting—
that is, one severed between the joints. Clematises do
not, as a rule, strike freely from cuttings, but if inter-
node cuttings are used there will be fewer disappoint-
ments. If a cutting forms a large callus but does
not root, the callus should be pared down. To ensure
speedy rooting it is desirable to put certain kinds in
heat. In botanic gardens and nurseries, where a good
deal of propagating goes on, the heat is provided by
pipes embedded in sand kept moist in propagating
cases or frames. The amateur may put his few pots
or pans under a large bell glass or handlight in a warm

house.

Cuttings of hard wooded plants such as Heaths
do not strike readily, and quite small pieces not more
than two inches long should be taken.

The following kinds strike best when given close

heat :

Berchemia. Cassiope.

Bignonia. Choisya.

Bruckenthalia (peat). Cistus.

Bryanthus (peat). Corokia.

Calluna (peat). Corylopsis.

Caragana. Cotoneaster.

Cassandra. Desfontamea.

PROPAGATION OF TREES AND SHRUBS 97

Deutzia. Indigofera.

Diospyros. Ivy.

Drimys. Kalmia.

Edgeworthia. Lespedeza (peat).

Empetrum. Lilac.

Enkianthus. Myrtle.

Erica (peat). Nandina (peat).

Escallonia. Notospartium.

Fabiana. Olearia.

Fremontia. Oxythamnus.

Furze. Philesia.

Heaths (peat). Polygala.

Hibiscus. Rhododendron (peat).

Holly. Rose.

Hydrangea. Skimmia.

Hypericum. Solanum crispum.

Ilicium. Spiraea.

When the plants have struck they should be fully
exposed to the air.

C. — Half-Ripe Cuttings without Heat.

Many kinds do not require heat and root readily

if put under a bell glass or handlight in a cool green-
house or frame. Such are :

Alder. Cercidiphyllum.

Amorpha. Cistus.

Araucaria. Clerodendron.

Artemisia. Colutea

Azara. Cotoneaster.

Berberis. Cupressus.

Bupleurum. Cytisus.

Carpenteria. Decaisnea.

Caryopteris. Desmodium.

Castanopsis. Elder.

Ceanothus. Eucryphia.

98

GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Ercilla.

Paulownia.

Forsythia.

Periploca.

Fuchsia.

Phillyraea.

Genista.

Phlomis.

Gorse.

Photinia.

Helianthemum.

Pittosporum.

Hibiscus.

Podocarpus.

Holly.

Prumnopitys.

Hypericum.

Punica.

Jasmine.

Rhodotypos.

Kolreuteria.

Rosemary.

Lardizabala.

Spartium.

Laurel.

Spiraea.

Laurus.

Stachyurus.

Laurustinus.

Staphylea.

Leiophyllum (peat).

Stauntonia.

Lindera.

Stephanandra.

Loropetalum.

Sty rax.

Menziesia (peat).

Tamarix.

Muehlenbeckia.

Taxodium (in water)

Neillia.

Taxus (Yew).

Nuttallia.

Tecoma.

Osmanthus (peat).

Thuja.

Othera.

Torreya.

Paliurus.

Tricuspidaria (peat).

Passiflora.

Viburnum.

D. — Soft Cuttings in Close Heat.

" Soft " cuttings are pieces of freshly formed wood,
taken generally from side-shoots directly they have
grown three or four inches long, inserted in sandy soil
and kept close as in Class B. The following do well
from this class of cutting :

A GLORIOUS TREE TULIP, MAGNOLIA SOULANGEANA.
Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

PROPAGATION OF SHRUBS AND TREES

99

Ampelopsis.

Aristolochia.

Baccharis.

Berberidopsis.

Diervilla.

Forsythia.

Honeysuckle (some).

Hydrangea.

Hymenanthera.

Kerria.

Menispermum.

Parrottia.

Spiraea Japonica, and varieties.

Virginian Creeper.

Vitis.

Weigela.

E. — Ripe Wood Cuttings.

These are generally taken in September, from wood
of the current year which has become firm. Most of
them are inserted an inch or two apart, in rows just
far enough apart to be hoed, in the open ground.
Ribes, which include the fruiting Currants and Goose-
berries, strike readily from this class of wood. They
are frequently taken with a slip of the older wood,
called a " heel," but it is not essential. Roses strike
from ripe wood in September, but in this case the
cuttings do best if inserted up to within an inch of the
top. The following kinds are suitable for propagation
from ripe wood, some in frames :

Ampelopsis (frame).

Broussonetia (frame).

Buddleia (frame).

Celtis.

Daphne (frame).

Deutzia.

Elaeagnus.

Euonymus.

Griselinia.

Honeysuckle (frame).

Lavender (frame).

Leycesteria.

Ligustrum (frame).

Lycium (frame).

Piptanthus (handlight).

Poplar.

Privet.

Raphiolepis (frame).

Ribes.

Rose.

Rubus.

Tamarix.

Vitex (frame).

Willow.

ioo GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

F. — Root Cuttings.

The experienced propagator finds that there are
certain plants which strike better from pieces of root
than from portions of stem. A typical greenhouse
plant is the Bouvardia, and hardy sub-shrubby perennial
the Anchusa. Some shrubs also come best from
root cuttings. Generally it will be found best to take
pieces of root two or three inches long and about as
thick as a cigarette. If inserted in a shallow pan they
may be laid almost flat and just covered with soil.
Root propagation is particularly suited for the beautiful
white Tree Poppy, Romneya Coulteri. Pieces of root
two inches long and about a quarter of an inch thick
may be inserted singly upright in three-inch pots, or two
inches apart round the side of a larger pot in autumn.
The plants may be plunged to the brim in ashes in a cold
frame. Growth will start from the top and roots
push from the sides. In spring the young plants may
be potted singly, and they will be ready for planting
out in May. Propagation is also effected by seeds,
but root cuttings give strong plants quicker. Strictly
speaking, Romneya Coulteri is a herbaceous plant,
although the stems frequently stand until spring, giving
it a semi-shrubby habit. It is common to leave them
till spring as protection and then to cut them out.

The following come well from root cuttings :
Ailanthus. Rhus typhina.

Calycanthus. Robinia hispida.

Cladrastis. Romneya.

Halesia. Xanthoceras.

Madura.

PROPAGATION OF SHRUBS AND TREES 101

G. — Grafting.

The most important shrubs commonly propagated
by this means are Clematises, Roses and Rhododen-
drons. In the case of the first, the variety of Clematis
to be propagated is attached to a piece of root of one
of the commoner species, such as Viticella, Flammula,
or lanuginosa. These species, raised from seed, have
a tufted rootstock somewhat resembling that of
Asparagus in their third year, and one plant will yield
enough material for many plants, as pieces of two or
three inches long suffice. A plant of the variety to be
increased is grown in a pot and started in a warm house
in winter and when it has made a few feet of growth the
shoot is cut up into pieces between the joints with leaves
and dormant buds. The soft tip is rejected. Sloping
cuts are made on both root and shoot of the same
length, so that they fit close together ; this is splice
grafting ; they are then tied and inserted in small pots
of sandy soil, the tip with its leaves just above the soil.
Half loam and a quarter each of leaf-mould and sand
make a good compost. Some propagators slit down the
centre of the root cuttings, pare down the scion into
the shape of a wedge, press it into the cleft in the root,
tie and pot. This is wedge-grafting. In either case
the pots should be kept close in bottom heat till rooted.

Although Roses are generally propagated by outdoor
budding in gardens, large quantities of plants are
raised by grafting in the nurseries, and this is done in
heated houses at mid-winter. The varieties to be
increased are grafted on to Brier stocks, generally

102 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

seedling Briers, which are grown in pots for the purpose,
because they can be put into heat and given a start at
any time. They will be ready for grafting in a fort-
night. The scions are small pieces of firm wood and
they are attached to the side of the stock (i) by plain
splice grafting, as in the case of Clematises, (2) by whip
(tongue) or (3) by veneer grafting. A whip graft differs
from a plain splice graft in that a tongue is raised
by a second cut in both stock and scion. A veneer
graft is one in which a shallow slice is taken off the
stock with a small " butt " at the bottom, which takes
the base of the scion. A slice is taken off the scion to
correspond. Many would call this " side " grafting,
as the scion is, as it were, let into the side of the stock,
near the soil, not put on to the top of the stock. In each
case the grafts are tied in and kept close in a warm
case until the parts are united. No wax or clay is used
as in outdoor grafting

With respect to Rhododendrons, they are mostly
grafted on to R. ponticum. In this case the saddle
graft is often used. The stock is cut wedge-shaped,
and the scion is split and fixed on. But wedge-
grafting and side-grafting (see above) are also practised.
If the work is done in winter it is well to put the grafted
stocks in moist but not strong heat. In spring they
could be put in a pit or frame without heat, and this
suits all the hardy varieties. The variety Cunning-
ham's White is used as a stock for Indian Azaleas,
being raised from cuttings in moist heat in winter and
grafted the following year.

It is convenient to grow stocks for grafting purposes

PROPAGATION OF SHRUBS AND TREES 103

in pots for several months before operating, but they
need not be put in heat until about a fortnight before
the work is done.

Like Roses and Rhododendrons, various conifers
and Cytisuses may be grafted in late winter or early
spring.

Rhododendrons may also be grafted in summer,
together with the beautiful winter-blooming Hama-
melis and the Japanese Maples.

The following subjects

may be grafted :

Abies.

Laburnum.

Acer.

Lime.

^Esculus.

Liriodendron.

Alder.

Magnolia.

Amelanchier.

Maple.

Arbutus.

Oak.

Ash.

Olea (on Privet).

Beech.

Osmanthus.

Camellia.

Paeony.

Caragana.

Photinia (on Quir

Castanea.

Picea.

Chionanthus (on Ash).

Pinus.

Clematis.

Prunus.

Crataegus.

Punica.

Cytisus.

Pyrus.

Diospyros.

Rhododendron.

Elm.

Robinia.

Halimodendron (on Laburnum)

Rose.

Hamamelis.

Sophora.

Hazel.

Taxus (Yew).

Juglans (Walnut).

Most of the foregoing are cases in which garden
varieties are grafted or budded on to a species.

104 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

H. — Layers.

We have seen that Rhododendrons are generally
grafted, but in common with many other shrubs garden
varieties may be propagated by layers. A low-
growing branch of one-year or two-year-old wood is
convenient, as it can be pegged down to the soil without
any trouble. It is best to cut a notch out of the
shoot half way through near a joint, peg the branch
down so that the cut part is embedded in the soil, and
leave it for a year — two years if roots have not formed
before. The soil should be light and friable. As we
see above, Magnolias may also be increased in this way,
but they are rather slow in rooting.

Layering may be done in the late summer or autumn,
when the ground is warm and moist.

The following may be layered :

Acer. Daphne.

iEsculus. Dirca.

Amelanchier. Elder.

Andromeda. Erica.

Berberidopsis. Eucryphia.

Box. Exochorda.

Carpinus. Forsythia.

Carya. Furze.

Catalpa. Gaultheria.

Ceanothus. Griselinia.

Cercis. Halesia.

Chionanthus. Hamamelis.

Cistus. Hazel.

Clethra. Hippophae.

Cornus. Heaths.

Corokia. Jamesia.

Cotoneaster. Jasmine.

Cydonia. Laurustinus.

Daboecia. Ledum.

PROPAGATION OF SHRUBS AND TREES 105

Lime.

Ptelea.

Lindera.

Punica.

Liquidambar.

Madura.

Magnolia.

Pyrus japonica,
Pyrus Maulei.
Rhamnus.

Menziesia.

Rhododendron.

Morus.

Myrica.

Olearia.

Rhodotypos.

Rhus.

Robinia.

Osteomeles.
Oxycoccus.
Paliurus.

Rosemary.
Rubus (tips).
Stuartia.

Periploca.
Pernettya.
Philadelphus.
Pieris.

Styrax.
Taxodium
Taxus (Yew).
Viburnum.

Piptanthus.
Plane.

Wistaria.
Zenobia.

Prinos.

J. — Division.

Propagation by division is not common, as shrubs
and trees generally have not the habit of growth which
makes this method appropriate. It will be found, how-
ever, that some shrubs, notably some of the Spiraeas,
form growths in the border, and these can be taken and
planted. Berberis Aquifolium has a dense, tufted
habit and may also be divided. Some Heaths which
have a tufted habit may be divided. The work is best
done just when growth starts in spring. List :

Heaths.

Itea (suckers).

Lilac.

Nuttallia (suckers).

Ruscus.

Spiraea (and suckers).

Symphori carpus (suckers).

Yucca.

Aralia (suckers).

Arbutus.

Arctostaphylos.

Bamboos.

Berberis Aquifolium.

Box.

Dimorphanthus (suckers)

Epigaea.

CHAPTER XII.

Enemies of Shrubs and Trees.

Like most cultivated plants, shrubs and trees have
their enemies, whether in the form of caterpillars or
fungi. But speaking generally, there is not so much
anxiety on this score as in the case of fruit trees. The
Rose is the most harassed, and the enemies of that
popular shrub are dealt with in the companion volume,
" Roses and Rose Gardens."

Azaleas and Rhododendrons are, on the whole, very
healthy plants. Blotches, galls and pustules may
sometimes be seen on them, but rarely to the extent of
seriously injuring or disfiguring them.

Occasionally branches of Rhododendrons, as of
other plants in the order Ericaceae, die from canker,
for which there is no known remedy.

Young trees of the softer wooded kinds, such as
Willow, Chestnut, Lime, Birch, Ash and Plane, some-
times show cracks in the bark, which on being removed
reveals hard, dry wood. A considerable area of the
stem of a tree may be affected in patches in this way,
and it may dwindle and die. This condition is often
caused by a burst of sunshine after a spell of dull
damp weather. It is, in fact, a case of what the grape-
grower would call " scorching," the " enemy " being the

1 06

VEITCH'S VIRGINIAN CREEPER IS A TRUE CLIMBER, AND
ASSUMES EXQUISITE SHADES IN THE FALL."
(See page 168.)
Painted by A. C. Wyatt.

ENEMIES OF SHRUBS AND TREES 107

sun. It will be noticed that it happens most often in
the case of trees that are quite exposed. Those of which
the stems are shaded by their own foliage, by under-
growth, or by other objects, do not suffer. If a young
tree should be found suffering from this cause, haybands
might be made, twisted round the stem and kept
moist. They are also useful when a tree has sustained
accidental injury.

In case of any canker-growth, the patch should be
cut out and gas tar painted on.

The upper part of a tree may sometimes break off
and reveal the tunnellings of a caterpillar, such as that
of the Goat Moth(Cossus ligniperda) or that of the Wood
Leopard Moth (Zeuzera aesculi). The former is so called
from its disagreeable odour. It makes large borings
and does serious damage to timber if not destroyed.
If the bark of a tree is observed to be injured in any
way, it should be examined, and if any trace of wood
chippings is found a hole should be searched for and
a piece of wire passed in to the end, where it should
be worked about so as to destroy the caterpillar. The
same plan may be adopted in the case of an attack by
the Wood Leopard Moth caterpillar.

One of the most remarkable diseases in trees is the
" Witch-knot " of the Birch, a bundle of twigs that at a
short distance might be taken for a crow's overturned
nest, but which proves on a close inspection to be
attached to the tree. It is due to the irritation caused
by a species of gall-mite. Such mites are numerous,
and their work is generally shown in swellings on the
leaves ; but in this case twiggy clusters develop. An

108 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

attack should be watched, or it may spread to other
Birches in the vicinity. The safest plan is to cut the
bunch of twigs out and burn it.

Larches are often grown in large plantations, and the
trees may suffer severely from the aphis, Chermes
laricis, which absorbs sap both through the leaves
and the tender bark of young trees. A simple remedy
is a wineglassful of paraffin oil in a gallon of water.
They are also subject to other diseases, but these
troubles attach rather to the domain of the forester
than the flower-gardener. The same may be said of the
Pine Sawfly, the Pine Weevil, the Spruce Gall Aphis,
the Willow Beetle and other tree enemies. It is rare
that a few trees well grown in gardens for ornamental
purposes in fertile, well drained soil, are seriously
injured or disfigured.

A similar remark applies to the vast majority of
evergreen and deciduous shrubs, and it is quite un-
necessary to take them one by one, as would be the case
with the principal fruits, vegetables and florists'
flowers, and deal with individual enemies.

CHAPTER XIII.

Pruning Shrubs and Trees.

In referring to the common errors in the culture of
shrubs and trees (see Chapter VII.) it was said that
neglect of pruning accounted for many comparative
failures. It was pointed out that different shrubs have
different habits of growth, and that to get the best
results these variations should be studied.

The true lover of shrubs and trees will never grudge
the time necessary to learn their habits oi growth and
method of flowering. On the contrary, he will find
interest and enjoyment in acquiring knowledge about
them. He will see that some deciduous shrubs bloom
best on entirely new wood, some on wood a year old,
others on wood two years old or more.

We need look no farther than the Rose for classes
typical of those kinds which do not produce their best
flowers in spring, on shoots of the previous year, or on
old wood, but on absolutely new shoots of the current
year. With these the course is to prune the flowered
shoots back to near the base, not absolutely to the old
wood, but to within a few inches of it, leaving three or four
buds (more or less according to the variety), from which
the new flowering wood will start. It is usual to do this
just as growth begins in spring. In such shrubs the old

no GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

wood forms, as it were, a framework, a support, for the
flowering wood. The old wood cannot be dispensed
with altogether, as it can in the case of those shrubs
which, like the Raspberry and a host of others, throw
up shoots direct from the root stock. To avoid mis-
understanding, it should be pointed out that although
the Hybrid Perpetual, Tea-scented, Hybrid Tea and
most other Roses have the habit indicated, the
Ramblers and Wichuraianas have the Raspberry
habit.

There are a few shrubs, of which the Rhododendron
and the Camellia are popular examples, which produce
shoots from the base of the flower trusses. Examine
a Rhododendron in bloom and it will probably be found
that growth buds are present at the base of the truss.
This offers two practical hints to the cultivator : the
first, that he should not cut Rhododendron blooms with
long pieces of the supporting branch if he wants
subsequent growth ; the second, that after the bloom
truss has faded on the plant it should be pinched off
carefully with finger and thumb, so that the nestling
buds may be left uninjured. These points are often
neglected, with injury to the plant. When Rhodo-
dendrons are grown thinly they rarely need much
treatment with the knife, as they develop a neat habit
naturally and gradually extend their flowering wood.
Should they get very crowded branches may be cut
right out. When they get crowded, however, they
may grow tall and lank, and so become unsightly. In
such cases it is wise to attack them with a saw and prune
them low. If they are happy in the soil they will

PRUNING SHRUBS AND TREES in

break freely from old wood, and soon be compact
bushes again.

We chose the dwarf hybrid classes of Rose as typical
of the shrubs which bloom best on entirely new wood.
Clematis Jackmanii might be quoted as another well
known example.

The second group, that which flowers best on wood
made the previous season, is a large one. The Rubus
genus, of which the garden Raspberry is a familiar
member, the Mock Orange, the Deutzia, the Rambler
Roses and the Weigela are popular examples.

With respect to the third group, which bloom mainly
on mature wood two years or more old, little annual
pruning is needed, certainly there is no general cutting
back as in the two other groups.

We might, indeed, form a fourth group : those which,
in practice, need no annual pruning ; they only
require to be thinned now and then when the heads get
thick.

Inasmuch as this diversity of habit exists among
shrubs it follows that the same system of pruning
cannot be right for all kinds, but if the grower fixes
in his mind that nearly all the principal deciduous
shrubs fall naturally into groups, and classifies his own
plants accordingly, he will succeed. There are ex-
ceptions. Some shrubs, notably the Clematis, have
no common habit throughout the species, and conse-
quently these genera require special study ; but they
are not numerous.

We might usefully consider the groups one by
one :

ii2 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

(i) The New-Wood Group. — In this section the annual
pruning consists in cutting back the flowered growths
of the previous year. It is not usual to cut them out
entirely, but to reduce them to a few buds, because
growth starts better from buds near the old wood than
from the old wood itself. Pruning may be done when
growth starts in spring.

(2) The One-year Wood Group. — Here the annual
pruning consists in removing the wood which has
flowered, and it may be cut out the same summer,
because the new wood gets full exposure to sun
through the thinning of the bush, and, becoming well
ripened, flowers well the following year. Certain
variations will be found within this group. Some of
the shrubs will throw up most of their annual growth
from the rootstock itself, like a Raspberry or a Dorothy
Perkins Rose. Others will produce it on the upper part
of the old wood. With the former, the annual pruning
of the flowered wood will be to the ground level ; with
the latter, to the old wood from which it breaks.

(3) The Old-Wood Group. — The annual pruning con-
sists in cutting back the annual growth close to the old
wood. It is often spoken of as spurring. It may be
done in winter or when growth starts in spring.

A strong, sharp pruning knife will be found the most
useful tool for pruning deciduous shrubs, but secateurs
may be used on occasion with groups 1 and 3. A small
saw will be needed on occasion.

The grower soon learns by observation the difference
between new, one-year-old, and older wood. New
wood is comparatively thin, flexible and green, or

< «

KOLWITZIA AMABILIS. '
A new Shrub from the Far East.
Photo by R. A. Malby.

PRUNING SHRUBS AND TREES 113

greenish-brown, in colour. One-year-old wood is brown
and firm, but the bark is smooth and clear. Old wood
is dark and the bark is rough and dull.

Pruning may sometimes consist in cutting back a
j agged stump where a branch has been broken off. The
stump should be cut close back to the bole, smoothly
and cleanly, and then coated with gas tar. Dead
branches should also be removed promptly.

The principal evergreens require very little pruning.
Sometimes a little shaping may be needed, but there is
no such thing as annual pruning, except for hedges.
A weak plant may be cut back.

Berberises and Hollies only need shaping. At the
S3 me time they will endure pruning if formal growth
is wanted ; and this is best done at mid-spring, because
then the new growth soon hides the stumps. Laurels
often require severe repression and it should be done
with the knife in April. Ivy should also be clipped
then.

With respect to deciduous trees, the smaller flowering
trees may be shortened when young to get an open
framework of branches, but afterwards they will
require no pruning, unless it be to thin a much-crowded
head or trim in a straggling branch. A strong leading
growth is not wanted. The larger shade and shelter
trees should have a clean main stem extending upwards
as a leading growth, with side branches breaking from
it. As a rule, it is not well to shorten the head, as
advised for the small flowering trees, because a spread-
ing, cabbage-like head is not wanted.

Conifers rarely require any pruning. A continuous

ii4 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

main stem or " leader " is necessary. If a tree forks
into two leaders one should be removed.

The following tables will serve as a guide to pruners :

Group i. — The New- Wood Group.
(Pruning consists in cutting the flowered shoots of
the previous year close back in winter or when growth
starts in spring).

Baccharis halimifolia. Clematis Flammula.

Buddleia variabilis and Veitch- Clematis paniculata.

iana. Clematis vitalba.

Buddleia japonica. Desmodium.

Buddleia intermedia. Genista tinctoria.

Buddleia Lindleyana. Hedysarum.

Caryopteris mastacanthus. Hydrangea.

Ceanothus americanus. Hypericum.

Ceanothus azureus. Indigofera.

Ceanothus garden varieties and Jasminum officinale.

hybrids such as Gloire Jasminum nudiflorum.

de Versailles. Myricaria.

Clematis Jackmanii and its Ononis rotundifolia.

forms. Perowskia.

Clematis viticella. Roses (dwarf, hybrid).

Group 2. — The One- Year- Wood Group.
(Most of these are spring bloomers, and the pruning
out of the shoots which have flowered should be done
in early summer, so as to give the new wood which is
springing .up a chance of developing freely and ripen-
ing well ; but the summer and autumn bloomers, such
as the Rambler and Wichuraiana Roses and some of
the Spiraeas, cannot be pruned till late summer or
early autumn. The new shoots will bloom the follow-
ing year.)

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PRUNING SHRUBS.

How to prune shrubs of the Raspberry and Rambler Rose habit. — (i) old
dark shoots to be cut out at the base in summer ; (2) young shoots to be
retained for next year's flowering ; (3) an old shoot shortened to allow the
retention of a young shoot growing from it.

PRUNING SHRUBS.

How to prune shrubs which bloom from the old wood. — (1) a Wistaria planted
against a wall ; (2) side branches trained in tiers to cover the wall ;
(3) young shoots pruned close back in winter or early spring ; (4) racemes
of bloom springing from the mature wood.

PRUNING SHRUBS AND TREES 117

Calophaca. Lycium.

Caragana. Neillia.

Clematis montana. Neviusia.

Colutea. Nuttallia.

Coriaria. Philadelphia (Mock Orange).

*Cornus (Dogwood). Prunus triloba.

Deutzia. Prunus japonica.

Diervilla. Rhodotypos.

*Elder, Golden. Ribes (see also group 4).

Forsythia. Rose (Rambler and Wichuraiana)

Halesia. Rubus.

Jasmine. Sophora (not japonica).

Kerria. *Spiraea.

*Leycesteria. Vaccinium.

Ligustrum. Weigela.

Lonicera (Honeysuckle).

Group 3. — The Old-Wood Group.
(Pruning consists in thinning when crowded and
spurring back the young shoots to two or three inches
in spring where numerous. Very little general pruning
is needed.)

Akebia. Clematis lanuginosa.

Amorpha. Clematis patens.

Catalpa. Prunus (see also Group 2).

Ceanothus Veitchianus. Pyrus.

Chimonanthus. Vitis.

Clematis florida. Wistaria.

Group 4. — No Pruning.
(Some shrubs, in practice, require no annual pruning.
The most that is likely to be needed is a little thinning

* The Dogwoods grown for their coloured stems in winter should be cut
down every spring. Golden Elder the same. The beautiful purple-leaved
Nut, Corylus maxima atropurpurea, should be cut down about every third
year. Most of the Spiraeas respond weil to cutting hard back annually,
this being done in Winter or early Spring.

n8

GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

and shaping every two or
come within this group) :

Abelia.

Acer (Japanese).

Actinidia.

Ailanthus.

Amelanchier.

Andromeda polifolia.

Aralia spinosa.

Arbutus.

Aristolochia.

Azalea.

Azara

Bamboo.

Berberis.

Berchemia.

Bruckenthalia.

Br}/anthus.

Buddleia globosa.

Calluna (Ling).

Calycanthus.

Camellia.

Carmichaelia.

Cassandra.

Cassiope.

Celastrus.

Cercis (Judas Tree).

Choisya.

Cistus (Rock Rose).

Clerodendron trichotomum.

Clethra.

Colletia cruciata.

Cotoneaster.

Crataegus (Thorn, see below).

Cytisus (Broom).

Daboecia.

three years. The following

Daphne.

Davidia involucrata.

Decaisnea.

Elseagnus (thin).

Erica (Heath), remove old flower

heads.
Escallonia.
Euonymus.
Exochorda.
Fothergilla.
Garrya.

Genista (see also Group i.).
Gymnocladus.
Halimodendron.
Hamamelis.

Helianthemum (Sun Rose).
Hibiscus.
Hippophae.

Honeysuckle, winter flowering.
Hymenanthera.
Itea.
Jamesia.
Kalmia.
Laburnum.
Lavender.
Ledum.
Lespedeza.
Leucothoe.

Liriodendron (Tulip Tree).
Liquidambar.
Lonicera fragrantissima and L.

Standishii.
Magnolia.
Myrica.

THE .MONARCH OF THE TERRACE.
A noble Weeping Willow.
For description see Chapters XIV. and XXII.
Photo by F. Mason Good.

PRUNING SHRUBS AND TREES 119

Notospartium. Robinia.

Olearia. Santolina.

Ononis (see also Group 1.). Skimmia.

Osmanthus. Smilax.

Oxycoccus. Spartium.

Oxydendron. Staphylea colchica.

Parrottia. Stephanandra.

Periploca. Stranvgesia undulata.

Pernettya. Stuartia.

Photinia. Styrax.

Pieris. Tamarisk.

Potentilla. Veronica.

Rhamnus. Viburnum.

Rhaphiolepis. Vitis inconstans (Ampelopsis

Rhododendron. Veitchii.)

Rhus. Xanthoceras.

Ribes. Zenobia.

It should be understood that weakly plants of the
above may be cut hard back with advantage. Crowded
bushes may be thinned. Young plants may be
shortened to induce new branches to break. But,
broadly speaking, healthy, well developed plants need
only occasional thinning.

Paulownia imperialis is sometimes used for sub-
tropical purposes, and is cut down every spring to get
fine leaves.

The variegated and golden Elders may also be cut
back annually.

Lilacs are disbudded as described in Chapter XXVI.
Basal suckers should be cut out.

The Thorns (Crataegus) when grown as standards
may have the heads shortened once or twice while
young, but no annual pruning will be needed.

120 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The Winter Jasmine may be pruned severely after
flowering, and strong growths will push which will
bloom the following winter.

In pruning trees, due weight must be given to the
consideration of getting a good bole. In nature trees
are crowded, and this tends to the production of fine
stems, because the trees draw up to the light and the
lower side branches gradually shrink away. But the
bole may be " feathered " with small branchlets.

In park planting, or any planting for distant group
effect, particularly with Firs and Pines, the trees may
be set close with this object in view. On a lawn or other
sites near a house single planting is better. Most of
the Conifers are wanted well feathered with foliage
to the ground, and if uncrowded, and kept to one
leader, they will be well shaped. As regards the larger
deciduous trees, the desiderata are a clean bole and a
large spreading head. These features may not come
without assistance from the pruner in the early stages.
The lower branches should be kept shortened for the
first few years, but should be allowed to carry some
leaves, as the foliage helps to thicken the stem. Later
the lower branches can be removed altogether. There
should only be one leading shoot.

PART III.

Selective.

INTRODUCTION.

Although all the principal shrubs and trees are des-
cribed in Part IV., and their uses indicated, it is thought
that selections of the best kinds, grouped for the various
purposes to which they can be put, may be convenient
to readers as affording a ready guide to those who have
particular wants.

CHAPTER XIV.

Lawn Shrubs and Trees — Pendulous or
Weeping Trees.

When the garden-maker is considering shrubs and trees
in relation to the house, he cannot fail to see the value
of groups and specimens on lawns ; and the formation
of lawn-borders is naturally followed by the planting
of certain kinds, not entirely appropriate to the borders,
on selected sites on the lawn itself. Such plantings
have a rich and at the same time refined effect. They
are good, too, for the objects planted, because the
prominent positions which they occupy insure their
receiving adequate attention. They have plenty of
room, and care is devoted to the planting and
pruning.

We have already seen that the problem of planting
hybrid Rhododendrons in the border sometimes proves
insoluble, and these noble plants are assigned sites on
the lawn, where special beds are made for them. In
prominent positions such as this, only really good
varieties should be planted, and they may be selected
from those described in Part IV.

The old plan of forming special peat beds is not
followed now where good loam is available, as it is
found that this soil suits Rhododendrons well ;

124 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

nevertheless, they are peat -lovers, and in places where,
owing to a limestone formation existing, soil has to be
imported to make special beds, peat may be used in a
mound above ground level.

The plants grow somewhat slowly, and either thick
planting with subsequent thinning must be adopted
— and close-planting of modern Rhododendrons is
expensive, as the plants are far from cheap — or other
plants associated with the young Rhododendrons to
avert a scrappy effect. Liliums are much used for this
purpose. If the Rhododendrons are set six feet apart,
they will meet in due course, and give the massed
effect which is generally seen ; but the true shrub-lover
will find great delight in good specimens thinly grown^
which can develop into large bushes and be seen from
all sides, as in the great Cornish gardens. Thus, many
will prefer single plants to groups.

One's thoughts turn naturally to Conifers when
material for lawn trees is sought for. Shapely trees
of the beautiful Wellingtonia gigantea, the columnar
Libocedrus decurrens, the handsome Pseudostuga
(Abies) Douglasi, the quaint and tortuous Araucaria
imbricata, the beautiful Picea nobilis glauca and other
kinds mentioned in Chapter XVII. come to mind. All
these may be planted as individual trees in round beds
at selected places. Others suitable for use in a similar
way are Catalpa bignonioides, the Tulip Tree (Lirioden-
dron tulipifera), Buddleia globosa, Picea pungens, and
its pendulous and glaucous varieties, Taxodium
sempervirens, RobiniaNeo-Mexicana, Cupressus macro-
carpa, Picea pinsapo glauca, Cupressus Lawsoniana,

GRACE AND SHADE ON I III. SUN-SCORCHED GRASS.

A good Weeping Hirch.

For description see Chapter XIV.. and Part IV., Section B.

Photo by I ■■ Mason Good.

LAWN SHRUBS AND TREES 125

Thuja dolabrata, Pinus Cembra, the Copper Beech,
and the Mulberry.

Smaller trees suitable for use on lawns are Paulownia
imperialis, Ailanthus glandulosa, Retinosporas,
varieties of Cryptomeria japonica, Cupressus Law-
soniana and Juniperus Virginiana.

The Pampas Grass is highly effective when well
furnished with its white plumes in autumn.

Beds of hardy Azaleas will be equally as effective
on the lawn as in the border.

Among the shrubs and trees used for lawns, a few
kinds of pendulous habit, often spoken of as weepers f
may be introduced. They have a graceful appearance,
and impart a sense of variety. Nowhere in the garden
do weeping trees look so well as on an expanse of turf,
unless it be at the waterside.

When the tree-lover looks among the varieties of
popular trees, such as the Ash, Birch, Poplar, Beech,
Elm and Holly, he finds that there are many beautiful
weeping forms, generally distinguished by the varietal
name pendula. Thus, there is the weeping Ash,
Fraxinus excelsior pendula ; the weeping Aspen,
Populus tremula pendula j the weeping Beeches,
Fagus sylvatica pendula and F. s. Miltonensis ; the
weeping Silver Birches, Betula alba pendula and B. a.
Youngii ; the weeping Hollies, Ilex aquifolium pendula
and Perrin's weeping variety ; and the weeping Elms,
Alnus montana pendula and A. campestris pendula.

Judgment should be exercised in lawn-planting, for
it is easily overdone. There should be no planting at
fixed intervals. A " spotty " effect is to be

126 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

deprecated. The planting should be irregular. Nor should
the greater part of the lawn be covered. On the con-
trary, there should be an effect of lawn relieved by trees
and shrubs.

In the main, grouped shrubs should be in beds near
the edge of the lawn, a few feet only from the path,
and they should be on the part farthest from the house,
so that an expanse of turf may intervene.

"THE POPULAR PRYACANTHA ; LALANDII IS A SPLENDID

FORM."

(See page 134.)

Painted by A. C. Wyatt.

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CHAPTER XV.

Leaf and Stem Tints — Beautiful Fruits and

Berries.

It may be said that all young leafage is beautiful. The
early spring tint of that commonest of trees, the Larch,
for example, is indescribably soft, tender and exquisite.

But there is a special beauty in the matured foliage
of many shrubs and trees, and there is permanent charm
in the colours of many stems.

In autumn and winter the beauty of berry and fruit
must be considered.

Lest the shrubs and trees with beautiful leaves,
stems and fruits should be overlooked when selections
for planting are being made, it seems desirable to collect
the names of some of the principal kinds into a special
chapter, where oblivion cannot overtake them so
easily as it might if they were scattered over many
pages.

Variegation is a feature of numerous forms of culti-
vated trees and shrubs, and there is perhaps no more
familiar example than the Holly. Variegation may be
of several kinds, but in its commonest form it consists
of white or yellow patches on a leaf that is partly green .
Certain shrubs and trees which have or have not
variegated forms have forms the leaves of which are

128 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

wholly white, cream or yellow. There are, farther,
mottled leaves, such as those of the Aucuba.

In the present chapter we may consider as special
colouring all examples that depart from the normal
green.

White or cream (which we may for the sake of con-
venience term silver) variegation is present in Ash,
Elm, Maple, Beech and Holly.

The silver-variegated Maple grown under the name
of Acer Negundo variegatum is one of the most useful
of these, for it is a small tree admirably adapted for
the middle area of a shrubbery. A very bright, clean
and lively small tree or shrub of deciduous habit, it
just lacks perfect hardiness, and should therefore have
a sheltered place.

Another silver-variegated Maple is the form of the
common Maple called pulverulentum.

The silver- variegated Hollies are among the most
beautiful members of the genus, and there are several of
them, notably Broad Silver and Silver Queen. The
Hollies grow slowly, and it is an easy matter to keep
them within the bounds of small shrubs by the use of
the knife. In any case, it is some years before they
get to the recognised tree stage.

Large numbers of good shrubs are distinguished by
silver variegation, and perhaps the most useful are the
Boxes, Euony muses and Ivies. The Boxes are dense,
low shrubs, with an adaptability to limestone soils
which gives them a special value to garden-lovers
operating on chalk. Sempervirens argentea is the
silver form. Bought as young plants, about two feet

LEAF AND STEM TINTS 129

high, and preferably planted four feet apart in small
groups, they grow slowly into dense bushes.

The Euonymuses, which, as we have already seen, are
good shrubs for the seaside, include silver forms both
of the species japonicus and radicans. The variety
of the latter called Silver Gem is very popular.

There are numerous silver-variegated forms of Ivy
(Hedera), both climbing and tree. Variegata argentea
is good.

The silver- variegated form of the well-known Kerria
japonica is interesting, but not valuable. The best
plant in this genus is the double yellow.

The silver-variegated Mock Orange (Philadelphus)
silver-variegated Osmanthus, and silver-variegated
forms of Dogwood (Cornus mas. and C. alba), will engage
the attention of admirers of these genera.

The form of white Poplar called nivea has leaves
wholly silvery, and so has that popular shrub, the
Lavender Cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus).
Another silver-leaved shrub is Elaeagnus argentea.

Turning to golden- variegated trees, we have of course
the Hollies, such as Golden King and Golden Queen,
a form of Acer Negundo variegatum, a yellow-margined
Sycamore, and the form of White Ash (Fraxinus
americana) called aucubasfolia.

Yellow-variegated shrubs include climbing and tree
Ivies, Box, Dogwoods (Cornus albus Spathii and
C. mas aurea elegantissima), various forms of Elaeagnus
pungens, and the familiar golden Euonymus (E. japon-
icus aureus). The dwarf Bamboo called Arundinaria
auricoma, Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium, yellow

i3o GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

variegated form), yellow- variegated forms of the
Winter Jasmine (nudiflorum) and the Japanese Honey-
suckle (Lonicera japonica aurea reticulata) must also
be mentioned.

Among golden-leaved trees the most important are
Acer Prinz Handjery, the Yellow Alder (Alnus glutinosa
aurea), Catalpa bignonioides aurea, the golden Poplar,
(Populus deltoidea aurea), the Oaks called Quercus
pedunculata Concordia and rubra aurea, and the Golden
Elm (Ulmus campestris Louis van Houtte).

Perhaps the best known yellow-leaved shrub is the
golden Elder, Sambucus canadensis, yellow-leaved.
There is a yellow-leaved Mock Orange (Philadelphus
coronarius), likewise yellow Lings (Calluna vulgaris
aurea and cuprea), yellow Acer Negundo (californica
aurea), and yellow Nut (Corylus Avellana aurea).
Neillia opulifolia lutea may also be mentioned.

The value of these variegated and golden and silver-
leaved shrubs and trees lies in their capacity for warming
and lighting up the garden in periods of dull weather,
and, in the case of the evergreens, in winter. The
reader can hardly have failed to see in his travels the
inspiriting effect of a simple hedge of golden Euonymus
in a seaside garden on a grey winter day. Within
reasonable limits the coloured foliage subjects have a
real importance. They should certainly not be planted
extensively, but in moderation they serve a distinct
purpose.

The purple-leaved subjects have a different effect.
They throw out into sharper, clearer relief the green
and variegated plants.

" THE BROOMS HAVE THE INTEREST OF GREEN STEMS AS WELL

AS OF BRILLIANT FLOWERS."

Cytisus Andreanus at Kew.

(See page 132.)

Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

LEAF AND STEM TINTS 131

The two most popular dark-leaved trees are the
Copper Beech (Fagus sylvatica atropurpurea) and the
purple-leaved Plum (Prunus Pissardii of nurserymen,
P. cerasifera atropurpurea of botanists). The Beech
will grow into a large timber specimen, the Plum
remains a small tree and may even be had in shrub
form. There is a good dark-leaved Sycamore (atro-
purpureum).

The richest colour in dark-leaved shrubs is found in
the Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum). Such forms as
atropurpureum aureum, decompositum, palmatifidum,
roseo-marginatum dissectum, and septemlobum pur-
pureum are highly ornamental. Groups of these fine
coloured Maples, growing in large pots or tubs, are now
a feature of many large horticultural shows, and the
reader is there given an opportunity of noting many
forms, varying in tint and division of the rich leaves.

There is a purple-leaved form of the Common
Barberry (Berberis vulgaris), but it is not important
for the shrubbery, although useful for cover. More
valuable is the dark-leaved Nut, Corylus maxima
atropurpurea. Purple-leaved forms of Euonymus
europaeus and Osmanthus ilicifolius are also worth
mentioning.

When planted sparingly, these dark-leaved subjects
are very effective.

Stem-colour in deciduous shrubs would hardly suggest
itself as a subject worthy of study by the garden-maker,
nevertheless, it should not be ignored. So simple
a plant as the Deutzia has a distinctly warm and lively
effect with its bright, clean brown bark when the bushes

132 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

are kept pruned, so that they are full of young wood in
winter. When crowded with old wood they are not
so cheerful.

Among trees the most familiar example of stem-colour
is the Silver Birch. A tree equally worthy of attention
is the gold-stemmed Ash, Fraxinus excelsior aurea.

The Dogwoods are particularly valuable for the kinds
they furnish with coloured stems, notably alba and
Baileyi, with red bark, and flaviramea, with yellow
bark.

Rubus biflorus and R. lasiostylus are often planted
for their white stems, and the coloured-stem Willows,
Salix vitellina, for their yellow or red stems, which are
very bright.

The Brooms have the interest of green stems, as well
as brilliant flowers.

The intermingling of these subjects in shrubberies
has the effect of maintaining brightness throughout the
year.

Another thing well worth consideration is autumn
colour, and this is gained by planting a proportion of
subjects, the leaf changes of which in autumn add
brilliance to the border. Any reader who finds joy in
the autumn woodland knows what colour-change
means. There is a homely example of it on many a
house in the form of the Virginian Creeper.

The Thorns give us some of the most beautiful colour
among small trees, particularly the varieties of the
Cockspur Thorn (Crataegus Crus-galli) ; prunifolia and
splendens are very showy. The species coccinea also
has beautiful autumn colour.

LEAF AND STEM TINTS 133

Reference has already been made to the Japanese
Maples, as subjects which provide warm colours,
and their hues deepen in autumn. But many of the
Maples have beautiful colour in the fall. The Norway
Maple (Acer platanoides) has many good forms, and
none better for late colour than that called Reitenbachii.
Dasycarpum, macrophyllum, rubrum and ginnala
are other brilliant leaved species of Acer.

The golden leaves of the Chestnuts add another
to the already strong claims of this noble tree, and
Beech colour is also an asset.

The Barberries are full of leaf-colour. The splendid
B. Darwinii has charming tones when its orange flowers
come towards the close of winter. Thunbergii takes on
a lovely tint of orange in autumn. And the common
vulgaris is not to be despised then.

The splendid Catalpa bignonioides, a tree too little
used, considering that it will thrive in town gardens,
and makes a beautiful lawn tree, is very bright in
autumn.

The Vines (among which the Virginian Creeper
already referred to is classed) give us splendid autumn
leaf colour. They are grown botanically under the
generic name of Vitis. The species Labrusca turns
bright yellow, and the giantic Coignetiae bronzy red.
These and Veitch's Virginian Creeper (V. inconstans)
are the best for late colour.

There is a charming evergreen grown mainly for its
berries and foliage named Cotoneaster microphylla.
The species frigida is not so truly evergreen, but it is
richer in autumn colour, which is red and yellow.

i34 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Amelanchier canadensis (Botryapium) has fine
colour in autumn.

The Sumachs (Rhus) are popular shrubs, and the
best for autumn colour is cotinoides, the leaves of
which are marked with orange. But the commoner
species, typhina, is also bright.

Two, at least, of the popular Magnolias, Fraseri and
tripetala, are conspicuous for autumn colour.

The scarlet Oak fQuercus cocci nea) should be
remembered.

The Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba) turns yellow
in autumn.

The foregoing examples show that leaf-change pro-
vides autumn tints that are of great value in the garden ,
prolonging, as they do, the period of beauty. We have
still, however, to consider the fruits and berries, which
give us a further period of beauty.

It is unnecessary to do more than name the Hollies,
about which the absurd belief still persists that a free
crop of berries foreshadows a hard winter.

The Thorns are also very familiar, if only through the
common Hawthorn, but there are kinds which give
much finer fruits than this, notably the Cockspur
Thorns just mentioned for their leaf-colour, likewise
coccinea (also noted for leaf-colour) mollis, tomentosa,
monogyna macrocarpa, the yellow-fruited form of
oxycanthoides, pinnatinda (one of the largest), the
black nigra, cordata, and the popular Pyracantha.
Lalandii is a splendid form of this, which fruits
abundantly.

The genus Pyrus, including as it does the cultivated

LEAF AND STEM TINTS 135

Apple and Pear, is looked to confidently for ornamental
fruit, and we find it splendidly developed in the Crabs,
notably the Siberian and the horticultural forms
Transparent, Dartmouth, and John Downie. The
beautiful Pyrus spectabilis, which, as we have already
seen, is worth planting for its bloom, has handsome
fruit, and so has Pyrus Ringo. One of the best known
Pyruses is certainly Aucuparia, the Mountain Ash or
Rowan, which has handsome foliage and scarlet fruits.
There is a yellow form of it, very beautiful, but not often
seen. There are many other Pyruses with attractive
fruit.

The Cotoneasters must be considered. The best
known is the small-leaved microphylla, which has
white flowers followed by vermilion berries and ever-
green foliage. Simonsii has orange berries. Frigida
has already been mentioned in connection with leaf-
colouring in autumn; it has pretty red berries in
clusters.

The Roses, so beautiful for their flowers, are in many
cases fruit -bearers, and their heps are very ornamental.
The Penzance Briers have real beauty in their bright
fruits. The largest heps are found in the Japanese
Rose (rugosa) and pomifera. Both species have red
fruits, in the case of the latter species hairy. The
fruit of Rosa microphylla is yellow, spiny and highly
perfumed, that of R. spinosissima black.

On the sandy foot-hills by the sea-coast, one some-
times finds the sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides,
a grey shrub, with yellow berries.

The Pernettyas are perhaps the prettiest of all low,

136 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

berry -bearing shrubs. They are evergreens and
thrive in beds of peat and loam. Small, neat, compact,
with white, pink, red or purple berries, they are
exquisite little plants.

The Sumachs (Rhus) have ornamental fruits. The
berries of the Honeysuckle are familiar. The Yews
are also well-known. The Snowberry fSy mphoricarpus
racemosus) is often met with. Cydonia (Pyrus)
japonica and Maulei, with their varieties, have large red
fruits that are often jellied. The Quince, wTell suited
for a moist spot, is both brilliant and aromatic in fruit.

There are many other subjects which the reader may
meet with in botanical gardens, in large nursery gardens
and in the collections of connoisseurs. They will
serve to strengthen his conviction that in forming
shrubberies he cannot afford to put aside the claims of
fruit and berry-bearing plants.

With subjects valuable for their leaf and stem tints,
or their fruits, he can add materially to the beauty of
the garden, and it is particularly gratifying to remem-
ber that with their aid colour can be maintained for a
long period. One season of the year is linked with
another. Pleasing and harmonious hues lighten the
gloom of autumn. Brilliant berries beguile the winter.

CHAPTER XVI.

Evergreen Shrubs and Trees other than
Conifers.

Several of the preceding chapters have embraced
references to evergreens, but it will not be out of place
to consider the part played by this class and briefly
to study the best kinds in a special chapter.

Evergreens predominated in the old type of
shrubbery. We see it often enough now-a-days, with
its dense masses of uninspiring Laurels, Aucubas, and
evergreen Oaks, presenting the same aspect from year's
end to year's end, often dull, sometimes sombre.
There is no grace, no freedom, no seductive tinting in
spring, no shade in summer, no glow of mellow colour
in autumn. From January to December the border
presents an unvarying outline and but slight change in
colour.

Matters would not have been so bad in the evergreen
shrubbery if some of the more beautiful and interesting
plants had been used, but it almost seems as though
the mind that liked evergreens liked commonness, for
masses of everyday things were put in.

The shrub-lover must beware of taking guidance from
the general nurseryman in respect to shrubs and trees,
for that otherwise estimable person generally labours

137

138 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

under the disadvantages of having no special horti-
cultural interest in them, and of having a large stock
of certain cheap kinds, which he is naturally anxious
to sell. Thus situated, he is but poorly equipped for
giving competent and disinterested advice. How
well we know his plausible and loquacious traveller,
with his tempting offers ! He has the " stock "
articles of all sizes, like boots and shirts, and his prices
are low. We buy, we plant, and somehow, in a few
years, we awaken to the fact that the best parts of the
garden are full of coarse, aggressive, uninteresting
things, which serve no purpose except to fill space.

Sometimes the general nurseryman has a few plants
in his nursery of better things, which he will supply if
pressed ; and in any case, there are firms which make
special cultures of good kinds, and indeed grow them
to the exclusion of the commoners. These firms should
have preference.

There has come to be an understanding that ever-
greens are the only suitable shrubs for town gardens.
From more than one point of view they are the least
suitable. Those who look at town evergreens with a
discriminating eye note that they are often in poor
health, and that they are unusually sombre and
gloomy. This is due to the deposit of smuts on their
foliage. People who plant evergreens in town gardens
might at least give them a drenching now and then in
order to keep them clean.

Lovers of evergreens should refuse to be contented
with Laurels and Aucubas, but should make themselves
acquainted with the Barberries, the Arbutuses, the

" CYDONIA (PYRUS) JAPONICA AND MAULEI. WITH THEIR

VARIETIES. HAVE LARGE RED FRUITS THAT ARE OFTEN

JELLIED."

(See page 136.)

Painted by A. C. Wyatt.

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. f

1 9liLt

£T H

$

^

EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES 139

Boxes, the Cotoneasters, the Daphnes, the Escallonias,
the Euonymuses, the best of the Ivies, the Cistuses
(Rock Roses), the Helianthemums, the Hypericums,
the Pernettyas, the Rhododendrons, the Veronicas,
and other important kinds. The Laurels and Aucubas
undoubtedly have their uses, and so far as the latter
shrub is concerned it is really ornamental when properly
grown, for ics berries are large and brilliant ; but neither
it nor the Laurel should be planted in dense masses to
occupy a great deal of valuable space.

It is desirable to indicate the importance of the class
by drawing the readers' attention to the principal
genera of evergreens. The Bamboos, which comprise
the three genera of Arundinaria, Bambusa and Phyllos-
tachys, are beautiful for sheltered places. They are
dealt with in Part IV.

The Barberries include such fine plants as Berberis
Darwinii, B. stenophylla and B. Wallichiana, as well as
several others. B. Darwinii likes sea air, and one may
sometimes see it forming a hedge in a seaside garden ;
but the finest effect is produced when it is given room to
grow into a fine individual specimen in a sheltered place.

The Box genus gives us the many forms of Buxus
sempervirens, some of which are variegated.

The Cistuses are splendid shrubs for the rock garden,
and the best kinds for growing there are described in
Chapter XIX. The same remarks apply to the
Helianthemums or Sun Roses.

The Cotoneasters are admired for their bright
foliage and charming berries. C. microphylla is the
best known~species, and is well worth planting.

140 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The well-known Thorn, Crataegus Pyracantha, should
be remembered, especially when shrubs for planting
against walls are required. The variety Lalandi is
splendid.

The Daphnes include several attractive species,
particularly Cneorum, but the deliciously sweet
Mezereum is not evergreen.

The Elaeagnuses are conspicuous for handsome foliage.

The Lings and Heaths, species of Calluna and Erica,
will receive the particular attention of garden-makers
who operate on sandy peat. Another great evergreen
particularly adapted to this soil is the Rhododendron.

The Escallonias are attractive both in leaf and bloom.
Although the foliage is small, it is very bright and
cheerful. E. macrantha ought certainly to be planted,
particularly in mild places near the sea.

We have already seen how bright and inspiriting the
Euony muses are in sea-side gardens, but it is not to be
inferred that they are unsuitable for culture inland.

One of the finest of the St. John's Worts, Hypericum
calycinum, is an evergreen.

The Hollies, with their beautiful foliage and bright
berries, come naturally to mind when one thinks of
evergreens in winter.

Kalmia latifolia is a good evergreen and the Ledums
are worthy of attention.

Several of the most interesting and beautiful of the
Magnolias are deciduous, but in the gigantic grandiflora
with its broad leaves, so often seen on lofty walls,
we have an evergreen species. The new Delavayi is
also evergreen.

EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES 141

The Evergreen Oak, Quercus Ilex, is a serviceable
tree

Ruscus aculeatus, the Butcher's Broom, is not a
striking plant, but comes in useful for shady places.

Many good Veronicas are not hardy, but the genus
remains important, for the species thrive on chalky
soil. Traversii is particularly useful. The Laurustinus
(Viburnum Tinus) will thrive on almost any soil.

Such handsome Yuccas as angustifolia and gloriosa
may be mentioned as good representatives of a useful
genus.

In addition to the foregoing, the reader may consider
Andromeda polifolia, Arbutus Andrachne and A. Unedo^
Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi, Azara microphylla, Cassinia
fulvida, Castanopsis chrysophylla, Empetrum nigrum,
Eucryphia pinnatifolia, Gaultheria Shallon, the Sweet
Bay (Laurus nobilis), Leiophyllum buxifolium, Olearia
Haastii, Osmanthus ilicifolius, Phillyreas, Pieris
floribunda, Rhamnus alaternus, the Rosemary (Ros-
marinus officinalis), the Lavender Cotton (Santolina
chamsecyparissus) ; and the various special shrubs
named in Chapter IX.

The Periwinkles (Vinca major and V. minor) are of
trailing habit, with pretty foliage and large flowers.

The Laurel and the Portugal Laurel are respectively
the PrunusLaurocerasusandP. lusitanicus of botanists.

The best of the foregoing shrubs for shady places are
the Butcher's Broom, the Aucuba, Gaultheria Shallon,
the Periwinkles and Ivy. The best of the larger ever-
greens for shady places are Laurels and Hollies.
Berberis Darwinii does not dislike some shade, on the

142 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

contrary, in a sheltered, partially shaded corner, it
will generally grow into a fine specimen. But the best
Barberry for dense shade is aquifolium (syn. Mahonia
aquifolia). See also Chapter XXV.

In the partial shade and shelter of woods one some-
times sees the grand old Rhododendron ponticum
thriving. With years it grows into a most effective
object. All Rhododendrons, indeed, love a measure of
shade. While they are not at home when quite under
large trees, the umbrageous shadow of the tops of large
trees is comforting to them.

That well-known hedge shrub, the Privet (Ligustrum
ovalifolium), is one of those useful subjects which will
thrive either in sun or shade. Single plots in shade
grow to a considerable height, and assume a tree-like
habit which is somewhat surprising to those who have
only seen Privet as a clipped hedge plant.

CHAPTER XVII

Conifers

For the same reason that a chapter has been given to
the evergreens, in spite of many incidental references,
one may be devoted to the Conifers. They are in
every way worthy of special study. We have seen
what splendid objects selected Conifers are for lawns.
They are also beautiful for avenues and for group-
planting.

A garden-like aspect might be imparted to many
meadows near large houses by devoting a little money
to the formation of groups of conifers, and so long as the
trees were fenced in the fields could be grazed. Thus
inexpensively could ornament and utility be combined.

A further use for Conifers is to plant on the edges of
drives, for example, in large parks.

Every tree which bears its flowers in a woody bract
is a Conifer. The majority are evergreens, but not all.
A well-known example of the deciduous Conifers is the
common Larch, Larix europaea. The Wellingtonia
is a familiar example of the evergreen Conifers, which
include most of the Firs and Pines, as well as the
Junipers and Cedars.

The cones of this class vary as greatly as the fruits of
domestic trees such as the Apple, Plum and Cherry.

i4, 10

144 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

A judicious planting of Conifers adds distinction
to the garden. These trees are never wild and
unkempt.

It is rare to see healthy, well-developed Conifers with
an out-of -place look. If such an instance occurs, it is
when they are planted freely close up to a small, low
house. Distance and a groundwork of turf show them
to the greatest advantage.

The different kinds vary a good deal in rapidity and
vigour of growth. None attain in Europe to the
dimensions of the giant trees of California, which are
a species of Sequoia (Wellingtonia) ; but in suitable
soil they will make good specimens up to sixty or
seventy feet high, in the course of years. The majority
thrive in a deep loamy soil. Shelter from cold winds
helps them at all stages and is particularly important
when they are quite young.

The trees should never be crowded. Even when
planted in groups, those of pyramidal habit should be
far enough apart, say ten feet, to make their character-
istic circular growth. If ample space is not provided,
the contour of the trees will be broken, and there
will be bare, hollow patches where branches, grown
into by others, have died back.

While some of the finest of the Conifers will, as stated,
make good trees, there are others of slow growth and
low habit which are shrubby, and are more suitable for
mixed planting in the borders than for specimens on
lawns or for meadow or park groups. There are even
kinds which are of such stunted growth as to be suitable
for small rock gardens. See Chapter XIX.

CONIFERS

145

The principal genera of Conifers, whether in number
of species or distinctive kinds, are Abies, Araucaria,
Cedrus, Cryptomeria, Cupressus, Ginkgo, Juniperus,
Larix, Libocedrus, Picea, Pinus, Pseudostuga, Sequoia
or Wellingtonia, Taxus and Thuja.

We use the popular names " fir " and "pine " in con-
nection with certain of these Conifers from childhood,
and often never pause to ask ourselves their meaning.

The Firs are not members of one particular genus
and the Pines of another. For example, we speak of
the Austrian Pine and the Scotch Fir ; both, however,
belong to the genus Pinus.

Fir derives from the Anglo-Saxon word fuhr. Com-
pare the German fohre, a pine tree.

There are two great groups of Firs, of which the prin-
cipal economically is the Spruce Fir or Norway Spruce,
a tree hardy enough to thrive in latitudes far too cold
for most of our Conifers, and yielding in its timber the
deal of commerce. It grows at an elevation of
3,000 feet in Norway, and at 1,000 feet in Lapland.
This tree also yields the Burgundy pitch of commerce.
It has pointed, rounded (" tetragonous ") leaves and
drooping cones. It is the Picea excelsa of botanists.
It is not important as a garden tree, but some of its
stunted forms, such as dumosa and pygmsea, are grown
in rock gardens and elsewhere. " Pine-needles " are
the rounded, fallen leaves of the spruce.

The Silver Firs are grouped under the botanist's
name of Abies, and A. pectinata is the typical species.
The Silver Firs differ from the Spruce in having flat
leaves and upright cones.

146 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The word " Pine " comes from the Latin pinus
(picnus). Note pix and picis and the Anglo-Saxon
pic, from which our common word pitch derives.
Pitch is of course the solid black substance obtained
by boiling down tar, and tar is the dark resinous sub-
stance obtained from pine trees. Thus we come " full
circle."

One would use, as far as possible, the old names Fir
and Pine, but they will not suffice for a garden collection
of Conifers, as some handsome species have no popular
name. Thus in Abies we find such kinds as cephalonica,
concolor, grandis, nobilis, nordmanniana, Omorica,
Pinsapo and Veitchii, which embrace Grecian,
American, Crimean, Japanese, Balkan and Spanish
trees having no recognised popular names. The
foregoing are all handsome. A. nobilis has a variety
named glauca which is more frequently grown than
the type as a border tree.

Some important nurserymen sell under the generic
name Abies certain species which botanists put under
Picea and Tsuga, indeed, these dealers almost ignore
the two last names. Thus, where some call the Spruce
Fir Picea excelsa others will call it Abies excelsa. It
is necessary for the amateur to know this, when
consulting catalogues, and he is advised to bear it
in mind in considering the names in the present
chapter.

The lover of Conifers who is driven to the conclusion
that he must use the botanists' names if he is to obtain
a proper grasp of the order will find other pitfalls in
the trade catalogues, which do not follow modern

LAWN PLANTINGS HAVE A RICH, AND AT THE SAME TIME
REFINED EFFECT."
(See page 123.)
Painted by Josephine Gundrv.

CONIFERS 147

botanical nomenclature in every case. The principal
of these will be pointed out in the present chapter.

The genus Araucaria is important to gardeners from
the possession of one hardy species, imbricata, the
familiar " Monkey Puzzle." This remarkable Chilian
tree is entirely distinct.

The genus Cedrus gives [us the Cedar of Lebanon
(C. Libani), the Indian Deodar (C. deodara), and the
Atlas Cedar (C. atlantica), of which there are popular
forms called aurea and glauca.

There are many forms of deodara, notably argentea
(silvery), aurea (golden), crassifolia, robusta and
viridis. C. atlantica is the most generally useful of
the Cedars. It is beautiful both as a young and a
mature tree, the habit being good and the colours rich
without being sombre. There are some splendid
examples near Reading in Berkshire.

The Cedars will thrive in most good loamy soils,
in fairly sheltered places, and never look better than on
the farther confines of a large lawn.

The Cryptomerias, forms of the Japanese timber
tree, C. japonica, which is popularly known as the
Japan Cedar, are graceful small trees, suitable for
shrubberies. One sees many varieties in the nurseries,
differing more or less widely in habit. Some of the
best of these are eiegans (syn. Veitchii), Lobbii, arau-
carioides, nana and spiralis. The planter should pick
out from a collection in the nursery the forms which
he likes the best. Deep fertile soil and a sheltered
site are necessary to get fine specimens ; but they
will thrive on chalk, merely growing more slowly.

148 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The genus Cupressus gives us the popular Cypresses,
of which Lawson's(C. Lawsoniana)a Calif ornian species,
is by far the most popular. This upright, columnar
tree, with its dense green foliage, is largely planted.
In quantity, it is monotonous, but individual trees,
whether on the lawn or in the border, are pleasing.
Few Conifers have produced more forms and some of the
varieties are more popular than the type. The planter,
seeing a collection in a nursery, can make his choice
from such forms as erecta viridis (bright green), Smithii,
Alumi (blue), Fraseri, alba-spica (white-tipped), iilifera
(thread-like), gracilis aureaand g. pendula, nana glauca
(dwarf) and lutea. These prettily tinted forms of
Lawson's Cypress are admirably adapted for planting
in shrub-borders. They could be associated with
flowering shrubs, or used as components of Conifer-
beds, which can be made extremely attractive features of
a garden. They will thrive on most soils, and do not
at all object to chalk. In such soils they grow slowly,
and a nice collection can therefore be formed in a
limited space, for they do not quickly crowd each other,
even when planted as close as four feet apart. They
make a surface net of fibrous roots, and can be shifted
with balls at almost any period of the year, provided
the soil is moist. Another use for these pretty little
Cypresses is to grow them in large window boxes for
winter ornament.

Macrocarpa, a strong upright grower, is a fine Cypress ;
Crippsii and lutea are forms of it.

A less popular, but still desirable species of Cupressus
is nootkatensis, a weeping form of which called pendula

THE SHORT-LEAVED, SILVER-LINED FIR.
Abies brachyphylla.
For description see Chapter XVII.
Photo by R. A. Malby.

THE SILVER-FROSTED GARDEN FIR.
Picea pungens glauca.
For description see Chapter XVII.
Photo by P. A. Malby.

CONIFERS 149

is good for lawn-planting. There are several other
forms.

Several of the Cupressuses, notably obtusa and
pisifera and their varieties, are grown in nurseries and
gardens under the generic name Retinospora. This
has become so well established, as to defy the efforts of
botanists, who seek to merge Retinospora in Cupressus.
C. (or R.) obtusa is a Japanese tree, most often repre-
sented in gardens by some of its forms, which are very
popular. Obtusa aurea, alba spica, compacta, filicoides,
nana aurea and pyramidalis are a few of those much-
planted forms of obtusa. As regards pisifera, which is
also a Japanese species, filifera and the feathered forms
plumosa, p. aurea and p. argentea, also squarrosa,
and s. sulphurea, are the most popular. They are
beautiful little shrubs, and may well be associated with
the forms of Lawson's Cypress and other small, neat
Conifers in special beds. They seem to be quite at
home on chalk and move well. Retinospora ericoides
is a low dense grower suitable for the rock garden.

The genus Ginkgo is important only in connection
with the species biloba, which is popularly known as
the Maidenhair Tree, because of the resemblance in
shape which the flat-lobed leaves bear to the well-
known Adiantum. It is a handsome Chinese tree,
quite good enough for a lawn specimen, and suitable
for the mixed border. It does not soon attain to a great
size, consequently is valuable for small gardens, more
particularly because it will thrive in towns. It is not
evergreen. The Maidenhair Tree is not very parti-
cular as to soil, and might well be regarded, in view of

150 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

its distinct and graceful appearance, as one of the most
important of garden Conifers. The yellow, cherry-
like fruit is worthy of note.

The Junipers (genus Juniperus) include several more
interesting kinds than the common species (communis)
which is a native of Britain, and yields berries that are
made use of for flavouring gin. Thus, there are the
Chinese species, chinensis and its varieties ; sabina,
a North American tree; and Virginiana, the Red Cedar.
The varieties of chinensis include aurea, albo-variegata,
glauca and Smithii. Fastigiata is a pyramidal variety
of communis and glauca a glaucous form. There are
many forms of Virginiana, of which the most popular
is perhaps the drooping variety pendula. Light,
loamy soil suits Junipers better than heavy ground,
but however well provided for in this respect, they
remain of low stature, and are therefore suitable for
small gardens.

The Larch, Larix europsea, is hardly worth planting
as an ornamental tree for the garden, although useful
for its tall, straight timber. A Japanese species named
leptolepis is found to grow faster than the common
Larch.

The genus Picea gives us, as we have already seen,
the Spruce Firs. Two of the pitfalls alluded to in
connection with nomenclature occur in connection with
this genus and that of Abies. The nurseryman has a
tree which he calls Abies Smithiana. He may also
have one called Abies Morinda. These are both the
same as the botanist's Picea morinda. It is a beautiful
species from the Himalayas, and is not only handsome

CONIFERS 151

but very hardy, so that it may be planted for shelter.
The Japanese species Alcockiana and Maximowiczii are
ornamental.

The garden forms of excelsa, the Norway Spruce,
comprise several very prettily tinted trees, well suited
for a bed or border of mixed evergreens. Argenteo-
spica, Clanbrassiliana (good for rock gardens) aurea,
diffusa, pygmaea, dumosa and compacta are cases in
point.

The species pungens, the Rocky Mountains Blue
Spruce, often listed as Abies pungens, is very handsome
and distinct, and has several garden forms, such as
glauca, argentea and pendula.

Picea polita is a handsome Japanese Fir. Omorica
is a Balkan species with flat leaves.

The genus Pinus gives us fewer garden subjects than
the Picea, nevertheless it is by no means without use.
In large places the Stone Pine (Pinea) ; the Weymouth
Pine (Strobus) and such species as ponderosa, Pinaster,
montana, Laricio, insignis, excelsa, Cembra, Lamber-
tiana, and monticolor may be planted. Where large
tracts are to be planted in heathy districts, on peat soil,
the Scotch Fir (P. sylvestris) will prove its value.
This tree is very common in parts of Surrey. There are
few better known Pines than the Austrian (austriaca),
which thrives on chalky land, and is very hardy.
It should not be planted in large groups except for
shelter, or it will give a gloomy aspect to the sur-
roundings. The Corsican Pine (Laricio) is a hardy
forest tree, and is not much planted in gardens ; but
there are some useful garden forms of it, such as

152 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

pygmaea, which is of compact, shrubby habit. A new
Chinese species called Armandii belongs to the Cembra
section ; it has yellow bark.

The genus Pseudostuga gives us the Douglas Fir,
which is often grown in the nurseries under the name of
Abies Douglasii. It is a handsome tree and should be
considered one of the best Conifers for garden planting.
Beautiful specimens develop with shelter on deep
loamy soils. There are drooping (pendula) and
glaucous (glauca) forms of it, in addition to others that
the tree-lover may meet with in the nurseries and
botanic gardens.

Sequoia or Wellingtonia gives us, in the species
gigantea, one of our best Conifers.

This is the tree which attains to such enormous
dimensions in California. It becomes a noble and
beautiful tree in gardens, when given a sheltered
place, fertile soil and plenty of room. Silvery, gold-
tinted and drooping forms are grown in the nurseries.
Although sempervirens, the Red Wood, is much less
familiar than gigantea it is equally ornamental and
horticultural forms are available ; alba-spica (white-
tipped) is very pretty.

The genus Taxus gives us the familiar Yew
(T. baccata) regarded in olden times as the peculiar
ornament for churchyards. The common species
is generally left to that habitat, unless it is wanted as
an inner garden hedge, the Yews planted in gardens
as specimen trees being selected from tinted forms
such as Washingtoni and Dovastoni. The former has
a yellow tint. The drooping form, gracilis pendula,

THE GOLDEN JAPANESE JUNIPER.

jum perns japonica aurea.

For description see Chapter XVII.

Photo by R. A. Malby.

THE GOLDEN CYPRESS.

Cupressus Lawsoniana lufea.

For description see Chapter XVII.

Photo by R. A. Malby.

CONIFERS 153

may also be planted. The Irish Yew is a pyramidal
form of the common called fastigiata, and there is a
yellow form of this. There is an interesting yellow-
fruited Yew named fructu-luteo.

In the ranks of the Thujas we find those popular
Conifers, the Arbor- vitaes. The American Arbor- vitae,
or White Cedar, T. occidentalis, is perhaps the best
known, although the Eastern, T. orientale (syn. Biota
orient alis) which comes from China and Japan, is also
familiar. A more ornamental kind than either is
T. dolabrata, from Japan ; it makes a nice small lawn
tree, and its form variegata is well suited to the same
purpose. There are many garden forms of the Arbor-
vitaes, of the American there are silver- variegated and
yellow variegated, drooping (pendula), dwarf (nana),
and so forth. Similar forms of the Chinese are also met
with in the nurseries, filif ormis, aurea and elegantissima
are beautiful little plants. The large species gigantea
is worth mentioning ; it is the same as the nursery
treeT. Lobbii; aurea and pyramidalis are forms of it.

The genus Tsuga is almost ignored by nurserymen,
most of whom call its best species, Mertensiana, Abies
Albertiana or Abies Mertensiana. Again, T. cana-
densis, the Hemlock Spruce, is often listed by dealers
under the name Abies canadensis. There are several
garden forms of this popular tree, including a white-
tipped, a dwarf, and a drooping variety. T. Hookeri-
ana, T. Pattoniana, and T. Sieboldii are sometimes
met with.

While the foregoing lists include the most important
of the Conifers, they exclude several interesting plants

i54 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

to which a brief reference may be made. There are, for
example, Athrotaxis cupressoides, the Tasmanian
Cypress ; the Cephalotaxuses, of which drupacea and
Fortunei are perhaps the best known ; Cunninghamia
sinensis ; Dacrydium Franklini, Libocedrus decurrens,
a handsome and distinct American Conifer • the
Podocarpuses ; Prumnopitys elegans, the Chilian Plum-
fruited Yew ; Pseudolarix Kaempferi, the Chinese
Golden Larch ; Saxe-Gothaea conspicua, Sciadopitys
verticillata, the Japanese Umbrella Pine j Taxodium
distichum, the American Deciduous C}/press, which is
good for the waterside ; there is a drooping form of it ;
and the Torreyas.

Athrotaxis cupressoides is not quite hardy.

Sciadopitys verticillata is one of the most beautiful
of the less familiar Conifers, and should be planted
more. When frequently transplanted in the nurseries,
while young, it will form a fibrous root system and bear
shifting when of large size. Its fine leaves are borne
in large bunches.

The smaller Conifers, such as the forms of Cupressus
Lawsoniana and Thuja orientalis, the Irish Yew, the
Retinosporas, the Cryptomerias, and the garden forms
of Picea excelsa and P. pungens, are suitable for the
smallest borders and even for window boxes in winter.
They are beautiful in a very small state, and grow
slowly except when planted in very rich soil.

"ALL THE FORMS OF CLEMATIS JACKMANII ARE BEAUTIFUL."

(See page 158).
Painted by A. C. Wyatt.

CHAPTER XVIII
Climbing Shrubs

A purist might object to the term " climbing " as used
in connection with certain shrubs which are often grown
on walls or other supports, and indeed, there are few
plants that really climb by means of special processes
such as those employed by the Virginian Creeper
and the Ivy. Nevertheless, the term is permissible,
because it implies a class available for the same uses as
those to which the climbing plants are put.

Many hardy shrubs, deciduous and evergreen, are
suitable for covering walls, and there are other kinds
which, lacking perfect hardiness, are only safe on walls
in climates where severe winters prevail. We may
fairly, for the sake of j^ready comprehension and con-
venience, refer to all these as climbers. We could
hardly speak of Crataegus Pyracantha as a climber ;
it is, however, an excellent wall shrub. The same
remarks apply to the Honeysuckles and to the Cydonias.

Let us not, however, by the repeated use of the word
"wall " imply a limited use to these free-growing shrubs.
There are arbours, arches, summer-houses, fences,
pillars, tree-stumps and pergolas to consider as well as
walls. Perhaps more particularly pergolas. This is
the day of the pergola. Thousands of garden-makers

156 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

are coming to realize what a charming and interesting
feature of a garden a pergola is. Forming a distinct
break in the outline of a garden, it likewise affords
support for a number of beautiful plants which might
not otherwise find accommodation.

Flower-lovers who note the exquisite effect often
produced in nature when the Traveller's Joy rambles
over the tall thickets, or when the Honeysuckle fastens
its tight grip on the hedgerow, may learn a lesson for
their gardens and set in appropriate places piles of old
tree stumps and gnarled branches to serve as a support
for rambling plants. With a little scheming, many a
rough waste corner could be made bright, interesting
and beautiful.

Let us consider some of the best of the climbing
shrubs in alphabetical order.

Actinidia chinensis, a modern species from China,
is the best of its genus. It has heart-shaped leaves
covered with reddish hairs. The flowers are yellow,
about the size of a half-crown piece, and are followed by
plum-like fruits in the case of the female plant.

Akebia quinata, which bears purple flowers in spring,
has not the merit of brilliant flowers, but is worth
including in a large collection for its quaint form.
A. lobata is also grown.

Much the same may be said of the " Dutchman's
Pipe," Aristolochia Sipho.

The Ampelopsis is referred to under Vitis.

Berberidopsis corallina is a typical example of a
really beautiful shrub which requires a wall in cold
climates. It is an evergreen, flowering in spring, with

CLIMBING SHRUBS 157

coral-red flowers near the tips of the shoots. In mild
places it may be planted on the pergola or arbour.

The Bignonias, most brilliant of climbers, include
one species, capreolata, which may be grown on an
outdoor wall in a mild district. Its scarlet flowers are
very showy.

We have seen elsewhere that the Buddleias include
some beautiful plants for the mixed shrubbery. In cold
districts they might be considered for walls, particularly
the two magnificent forms of variabilis, Veitchiana and
magnifica, which producelong, dense, mauve or purplish
flower-spikes in summer. They do best when pruned
hard, like Roses, in spring, for the best spikes are pro-
duced on the new wood. Colvilei has lovely rose
campanulate flowers ; it should have a warm wall.

The Allspice, Calycanthus floridus, is worth growing
for its perfume. The brown flowers, which appear in
June, are deliciously scented. It might be grown in
the angle of a wall, and such a position would also be
suitable for the exquisitely perfumed Chimonanthus
fragrans (syn. Calycanthus praecox), which blooms on
bare wood in winter or spring, and likes a south or west
aspect.

The Ceanothuses are beautiful deciduous shrubs for
walls, and the finest spikes are found in the forms of
azureus, such as Ceres, Gloire de Versailles, Croix duSud
and Marie Simon.

The species Veitchianus, blue, is also very good.
They thrive in any well-drained, fairly fertile soil, and
will do on chalk. They should have a south or west
aspect.

158 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The Clematises are among the most beautiful of all
climbing shrubs. Nothing is more charming on the
autumn countryside than masses of the silvery achenes
of C. Vitalba, the Traveller's Joy, which remain for
many weeks a delight to the discriminating wayfarer.
The flower-lover may elect to plant varieties of greater
intrinsic beauty of bloom in the garden, except in semi-
wild places, where he may establish C. Vitalba and let
it grow at its own sweet will. C. Flammula may have a
place, for it is fragrant as well as pretty. Room must
be found, too, for C. montana and perhaps for the new
forms rubra and Wilsonii. C. montana is truly a
charming plant for a wall, arch, or arbour, blooming
profusely in late spring. Its flowers are white, and are
not, therefore, showy ; nevertheless, it produces
a beautiful effect. The new Wilsoni is larger.
Rubra is red and makes a splendid pillar. There are
many lovely Clematises grouped under the names of
well known-species or hybrids, such as Jackmanii and
lanuginosa. The former is too well-known to need
description, but it may be noted that many growers fail
to get the best out of it, by neglecting to prune it ; only
when the old flowered shoots are kept under (p. 115)
and young wood encouraged does the gardener see this
splendid plant in its true beauty. It might well be
pruned every spring with the dwarf Roses, and with a
similarity of method, in as much as the wood which
bloomed the previous year could be cut back. All the
forms of Jackmanii are beautiful. There are large
deep violet (superba) ; white (alba or nivalis) ; and
red (rubra or Madame Edouard Andre). These are

"THE CEANOTHUSES ARE BEAUTIFUL DECIDUOUS SHRUBS

FOR WALLS."

(See page 157.)

Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

" THE CEANOTHUSES ARE BEAUTIFUL DECIDUOUS SHRUBS

FOR WALLS."

(See page 157.)

Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

CLIMBING SHRUBS 159

suitable for walls or pillars. Of varieties associated
with the species lanuginosa there are Enchantress,
double white, flushed with rose ; Candida, grey ;
Venus Victrix, pale lavender ; and Beauty of Wor-
cester, blue-violet, all with very large and beautiful
flowers. The type has lavender flowers. These are
among the most showy of all the Clematises and make
splendid pillar plants, so that they could be used for
the pergola. They do not want much pruning, and
the flowered wood should not be cut back as with the
Jackmanii set, but thinning should be practised if
the plants are crowded. Another beautiful set,
admirable for the same purposes as the lanuginosa
group, equally large and brilliant, and suited by the
same system of pruning, are those associated with the
species patens. The Queen, lavender, is one of the best
of these. Fair Rosamond, blush ; and Miss Bateman,
white, are also good. These large and beautiful
Clematises can be planted to drape old trees, which
in themselves are past the ornamental stage, but may
make the best of supports for younger rivals.

The foregoing is but a tithe of the material awaiting
the Clematis-lover if he cares to make a study of the
genus. He will admire sethusifolia, with its small
narrow-lobed leaves and white, bell-shaped flowers
borne in early autumn. The coccinea hybrids, with
flowers shaped like urns, will attract him by their
distinctness. He may prune them in the same way as
the lanuginosa and patens sets . Cirrhosa, an evergreen
species, with white flowers ; grata, bluish white,
sweet, an autumn bloomer ; paniculata, white, fragrant,

11

160 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

another autumn bloomer ; and Viticella, purple, with
its white and red forms, will all attract him. The
varieties of Viticella have the same flowering habit as
Jackmanii.

The Cotoneasters, which were described in the
chapter on evergreens, may be used with advantage for
walls.

For a wall of moderate height, with a north or east
aspect, few things can be better than that beautiful
Thorn, Crataegus Pyracantha, and its form Lalandii.
The importance of the Pyracantha lies in its brilliant
berries. It will thrive in town and surburban gardens,
and hold its berries right through the winter.

Cydonia (Pyrus) Japonica and C. Maulei, with their
varieties (Simoni is splendid), claim attention,
especially where brilliant shrubs are wanted for a low
wall. The Japanese Quince has large and brilliant
flowers, which sometimes expand in late winter and are
followed by fruits suitable for jellying. The varieties
differ mainly in hue. Thus there are purple (atropur-
purea) ; white (alba) ; rose (rosea) ; scarlet (coccinea)
and others. C. Maulei and its form superba are also
good.

In mild, moist, sheltered places, no shrub is more
vivid and beautiful in June than Embothrium coccin-
eum, an evergreen which produces its glorious scarlet
flowers in clusters. In colder districts it might be
tried on a south wall in a compost of peat, loam and sand,
with good drainage. It is worth an effort.

The Escallonias may have walls or wall shelter except
in mild places near the sea, where they thrive in the

CLIMBING SHRUBS 161

open. The best known species is macrantha, with
pink flowers in early summer; but the hybrid Lang-
leyensis, with its long sprays of charming pink
inflorescence, is a precious plant. It need not be
placed actually on the wall, if there is shelter from
cutting winds, but may have a wall border.

Garrya elliptica is a yellow-flowered evergreen which
is much at home on a south or west wall.

The Ivies (Hedera) are, of course, among the most
important of wall plants. Some people plant them with
an uneasy mind, fearing that they will do injury to the
walls. There need be no apprehension on this score,
Ivy rather benefits than impairs masonry. It is true
that a problem is sometimes presented when an Ivy-
covered house has to be re-decorated, but the painter
will generally be very fluent in assuring you that he can
not only remove the Ivy, but replace it intact and in
the end be able to point to a qualified triumph.

Practically all the many forms of Ivy which we see
in nurseries are variations, more or less strongly
marked, from the common species, Hedera Helix.
They differ in size, form and colour of leaf. Some of
the most distinctive types, such as the Irish (canadensis)
have sub-forms ; there are large spotted and large
variegated forms of the Irish. There is, too, a varie-
gated form of the gigantic dentata, the largest
leaved of all the Ivies, and it is very beautiful.

The following are a few of the best garden Ivies :
algeriensis, argentea rubra, azorica, Caenwoodiana,
and its form aurea, canadensis and its forms, chry-
sophylla, dentata and d. variegata, digitata and

162 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

d. aurea, Emerald Green, maderiensis variegata,
palmata and p. aurea, Raegneriana and rhomboidea
ovata. The Ivies are apt to move slowly when young,
and the Irish is perhaps the quickest grower. They can
be stimulated by good soil and abundant moisture.
The stronger growers can be bought in pots with several
strong shoots twined round a stake and upon each
other. Disentangling them is sometimes a tedious
process, but it should be done and the shoots fastened
to the wall with nails and shreds. When fairly esta-
blished the plants will make their own supports. When
the Ivy has grown into a dense mass on the wall, it
should be clipped in spring just before growth starts.
The new leaves will soon hide the marks of the shears.

Ivy is useful for covering shady trunks as well as for
clothing walls. Another pleasing use to which it can
be put is to plant it to cover tree stumps, which may be
set in selected places.

The Tree Ivy, Hedera arborea or arborescens, grows
without support, and is a useful evergreen for shady
places. Like the climbing Ivy, it will thrive in towns.
Chrysophylla, aurea and elegantissima are forms
of it.

Two Hydrangeas are suitable for growing on walls,
and indeed must have shelter except in very mild
districts ; these are petiolaris, which has white flowers
in spring ; and quercifolia. Petiolaris clings naturally,
and is good for a high wall ; it soon covers a wide area.

Two of the commoner Jasmines are hardy, namely,
nudiflorum and officinale. The former is the well-
known plant which bears yellow flowers spasmodically,

CLEMATIS MONTANA IS A TRULY CHARMING PLANT FOR A
WALL, ARCH OR ARBOUR."
(See page 158.)
Painted by A. C. Wyatt.

CLIMBING SHRUBS 163

in winter, in advance of the foliage ; there is a yellow
leaved form of it. The Winter Jasmine grows well in
towns. Officinale is the common white scented
Jasmine. Primulinum, revolutum and Wallichianum
may all be grown on outside walls, in mild districts,
but they are not hardy. Primulinum is a very attrac-
tive Jasmine, with flowers much larger than those of
nudiflorum. Like the Clematis, and indeed many
ether hardy climbers, the Jasmine often suffers from
want of pruning. Much crowded plants do not bloom
well, and if they were thinned freely, and the young
wood cut back, the bloom would be the finer.

More popular even than the Jasmine as a fragrant
climber is the Honeysuckle, the twining branches of
which will bind themselves round a fence, over a tree
stump, among the " lattices " of trelliswork, and round
pillars. The common Honeysuckle is known to
botanists by the somewhat formidable name of Lonicera
Periclymenum ; there are several garden forms of it,
such as Early Cream, Early Dutch and Late Dutch.
Flava is the yellow trumpet Honeysuckle. Flexuosa
and brachypoda, with pale very fragrant flowers, are
the same species, and the gold-netted (aurea reticulata)
is a garden form of it. Sempervirens is the scarlet
trumpet Honeysuckle. There are two winter-blooming
species with white flowers, fragrantissima and Stand-
ishii. The Honeysuckles will grow in almost any soil
if the site is not very hot and dry. The only pruning
which they need is thinning when crowded.

Kerria japonica, double form, is good for a north
wall.

164 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

The Magnolias give us some of our noblest shrubs and
trees, and the large-leaved grandiflora is generally
grown on a wall. Those who think of planting this fine
evergreen should endeavour to get the Exmouth
variety, which is finer than the common. Ferruginea
is another form of it. They should not be planted on a
cold aspect ; a south or west wall is desirable.
Magnolias conspicua, Lennei, Soulangeana and stellata
(syn. Halliana) are beautiful deciduous Magnolias that
may be planted in shrub beds and borders.

The Myrtles have a body of faithful admirers, who
love the plant for its perfume. One could hardly deal
with it appropriately among climbing shrubs, but for
the fact that it is often planted against walls for the
sake of shelter ; it does not grow up the wall like a
climber, but gains vigour from the protection which it
receives. Even with the wall-shelter, provision should
be made for protecting the plant in severe weather.
The common Myrtle is Myrtus communis, and there
are several varities of it, including a narrow-leaved,
(angustifolia) and a variegated.

The Passion Flower (Passiflora cserulea) is one of
those plants which tantalize their admirers by just
falling short of that perfect hardiness which enables
one to plant them anywhere without fear, but they
will live in the open in sheltered places, and after all,
the plant is so interesting and beautiful that it is
worth a risk. The white form, Constance Elliott,
may also be planted. These Passion flowers will
serve to give diversity to the furniture of a long
pergola, and variety adds interest and charm.

ALL BLOOM, ALL BLUE.
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus griseus.
For Ceanothuses see Chapter XVIII.
Photo by R. A. Malby.

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CLIMBING SHRUBS 165

Periploca graeca may be planted to vary the interest
of a collection of climbers. Although it is not showy,
its greenish purple flowers are quaint. It will do for
the pergola.

Polygonums comprise a large number of species,
but few are suitable for climbing, and the best by far is
Baldschuanicum, which grows very fast and twines
its stems round any object. The white flowers are
produced in panicles from early summer to September,
and it is often at its best, a fleecy cloud of bloom,
in early autumn. The plant is hardy, and it grows
so fast and blooms so profusely that it is a splendid
subject for covering arbours, arches and pillars. It
may also be used for the pergola.

Roses must, of course, be included in any collection
of climbing shrubs. They are the most beautiful of
all plants for covering arches, arbours, pillars, pergolas,
fences, walls and banks. It may here be explained
that in passing references to Rose-pruning in the
present chapter, the pruning of dwarf and standard
Roses of the Hybrid Perpetual, Tea and Hybrid Tea
classes, which bloom on the current year's wood, was
referred to. The best of the climbing Roses belong to
the multiflora, polyantha and Wichuraiana sections,
and these flower best on long canes made the previous
year, so that they come within the ranks of the majority
of flowering shrubs in respect to pruning. In brief,
they do best when the flowered wood of any particular
year is pruned out after blooming, giving room to the
young canes which spring up from the base. As with
many shrubs, it is sometimes desirable to retain the

166 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

lower part of an old rod for the sake of a strong young
cane which is growing on it, and which is better placed,
or more vigorous, than canes from the rootstock.

It would not be possible to deal fully with the pruning,
general culture and varieties of so important a shrub
as the Rose in a general work. These matters are
dealt with, alike as regards climbing and dwarf Roses,
in the sister volume, " Roses and Rose Gardens." It is
desirable, however, to point out the beauty and value
of what are called climbing Roses in connection with the
subject of the present chapter. The varieties are
constantly changing, new coming into the catalogues
and old dropping out every year ; but there are certain
sorts of such outstanding merit, that it is difficult to
improve on them, and they are likely to stand for
many years. Such are the beautiful Wichuraianas
Dorothy Dennison, Excelsa, Jersey Beauty (for banks),
Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay, Alberic Barbier, Lady
Godiva, and White Dorothy ; Crimson Rambler and
Blush Rambler, Carmine Pillar, American Pillar and
Shower of Gold. All these have the elements of
long-continued favour. All are good for pillars, arbours,
arches and pergolas. All the Wichuraianas are good
for banks, Jersey Beauty and Alberic Barbier par-
ticularly so. In mild winters the}' are evergreen. If
the varieties as a whole are weak, it is as wall plants.
None of the Wichuraianas and Ramblers are quite at
home on a wall. For this purpose the planter should
choose Madame Alfred Carriere. For a lofty wall,
especially with a cold aspect, there is probably nothing
better than William Allen Richardson. For low walls

CLIMBING SHRUBS 167

Gloire de Dijon, L' Ideal, Cheshunt Hybrid and
Alister Stella Gray may be considered. If a few more
Roses are wanted for pillars or pergolas, the claims of
Felicite-et-Perpetue, Rene Andre, The Lion (not the
Lyon), Mrs. F. W. Flight, the Penzance Briars Lucy
Ashton, Meg Merrilees, Rose Bradwardine and Anne
of Geierstein, Tausendschon, Leuchtstern, Tea Rambler,
Dundee Rambler, and Trier may be considered. It will
not be practicable to prune all these wall Roses quite
the same as the Wichuraianas and Ramblers, because
they will not throw up so much wood from the base.
The best course is to shorten the side branches hard
when they get crowded, and new flowering wood will
break up to take its place. All Roses love a deep
substantial soil ; but the Wichuraianas will thrive in
poor, chalky land where few of the other sections would
grow, and this will be a strong inducement to plant
them in the case of many garden-lovers.

The genus Smilax gives several plants suitable for
climbing, but this does not include the plant commonly
grown under the name of Smilax in greenhouses, for
that does not belong to the Smilax genus, and is really
an Asparagus. Aspera and its variegated form and
rotundifolia are perhaps the best of the hardy kinds.

Veronica Hulkeana is suitable for a south wall, and
has long lilac spikes in spring. It is very beautiful.

Considering the Vitises as including Veitch's
Virginian Creeper (and the name Vitis inconstans has
been substituted for Ampelopsis Veitchii by botanists)
the genus is very important, inasmuch as this is
perhaps the most popular of ail wall plants. It should

168 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

always be planted in preference to the common
Virginian Creeper, Ampelopsis quinquefolia (syn.
hederacea), which is a coarse plant and does not give
such beautiful autumn colour as Veitch's. The latter is
a true climber and assumes exquisite shades in the fall.
VitisCoignetiae is the largest of all the Vines, its huge,
thick leaves often being nine inches in diameter. They
are deep green above, yellow beneath, and become
highly coloured in autumn Heterophylla and its
varieties are worth considering A series of new
kinds will attract the attention of novelty-lovers.
These comprise armata, Veitchii, Henryana, Leeoides
and megalophylla. Veitchii is a beautiful form of
armata and colours exquisitely in the fall. The Vines
are free-growing plants and need not be given a rich
soil. The species of Vitis named vinifera is the well-
known Grape Vine.

The Wistaria is one of the oldest favourites among
wall plants, and certainly few ramblers are more
beautiful when it is well established. One has to wait
for it, especially in poor soil, but when it grows into
full beauty it is glorious. The old mauve species is
sinensis (chinensis) ; there are white, variegated-
leaved, and double forms. To get a wall well covered
with Wistaria the branches should be trained in
parallel, horizontal tiers a yard or so apart, and the
young growths which spring from them will give fine
racemes. The shoots which have bloomed may be
cut away in winter, and fresh flowering growths will
break the following spring. This pruning routine
gives much finer bloom than one gets when the plants

TALIAX ARCH WITH CLIMBING SHRUBS AT SWALLOWFIELD

PARK.

Photo by F. Mason Good.

CLIMBING SHRUBS 169

are allowed to remain crowded and unkempt from year
to year.

We see that the number of good climbing shrubs is
not limited ; on the contrary, there is an almost
embarrassing amount of material to choose from.
However, in modern gardens there is generally a
considerable area provided for climbers. In this
connection it may be suggested that the smaller the
garden the greater the space above ground that should
be provided for plants . It is true that the indiscriminate
use of arches, pillars and pergolas might lead to a
crowded and packed appearance, and that it is desir-
able to avoid this ; still, there are other important
considerations. Apart from the fact that in small
gardens the ground area is limited, there is the fact that
small gardens often have near neighbours, and the
desire for privacy alone urges the flower-lover in the
direction of putting up a greater proportion of plant-
supports than would be called for in a larger place.
Pillars, fences, arbours, pergolas, and the like are
not only plant-supports but screens. These are points
that must have due weight in planning gardens.

CHAPTER XIX
Shrubs for the Rock Garden

The lover of Alpines is so much the better placed in
one respect than his brother amateur who specializes
in herbaceous plants that he has some vegetation, and
not infrequently bloom, to show even in the winter
months. The rock gardener is generally weakest when
the herbaceous lover is strongest — from July to
October inclusive.

In every department of flower gardening there ought
to be prolonged interest. In many cases specialistic
plant growing is not gardening, because it merely aims
at making particular plants grow, and does not consider
them in connection with other subjects, or with the
garden generally. Every plant that is put into the
ground ought to be planted with these things in mind.

Shrubs should be considered for the rock garden :
(i) because they enter into harmonious relations with
other occupants ; (2) because they serve as permanent
furniture for the garden ; (3) because they give beauty
of bloom or foliage at a period when the majority of
Alpines are ineffectual. The smaller Rhododendrons,
the Cistuses, and the Helianthemums — to mention
only three genera — will provide bloom practically

170

" THE BROOMS COMPRISE SPECIES OF WIDELY VARYING HABIT

ADMIRABLY ADAPTED FOR THE ROCKERY."

(See page 177.)

Cytisus prsecox and C. Kewensis are here shown.

Painted by G. Soper.

"'

M

,-~y,

'A

SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 171

throughout the summer, and there will be no period
of the year when they are other than ornamental.

The rock-gardener is apt to overlook shrubs because
they are associated in his mind with bulky blocks of
uninteresting evergreens. He does not realize the
wide range of shrub-habit and beauty. He does not
consider that many shrubs are truly Alpine in character,
and are never better placed than among stones. The
common coarse evergreens have nothing in common
with these subjects, except the mere physical fact that
they bear their stems throughout the year.

In a garden that is planned with real art the shrub
and rock gardens will be so interwoven that they cannot
be separated. Groups of shrubs will be planted at the
approaches to the garden, and also on the mounds
within it. They will be in character with their
surroundings. They will bear a proportion in size and
habit to the conformation of the ground and the
mounds and stones.

We may very well consider some of the shrubs best
suited to the purpose in view.

Visitors to Switzerland will be familiar with the
Alpine Rose, Rhododendron ferrugineum, coloured
figures of which appear in the sister volume, "Alpine
Flowers and Rock Gardens/' This beautiful little
evergreen grows about a foot high, and has foliage
resembling Box. It bears small umbels of tubular
rosy flowers. There is a white form called alba or
albiflorum.

Another Alpine Rose is R. hirsutum, which is
likewise a dwarf evergreen, with hairy leaves, and red,

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172

SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 173

funnel-shaped flowers in umbels. A coloured plate
appears in "Alpine Flowers and Rock Gardens/' showing
the plant growing below Pinus Cembra, the bright
umbels of bloom admirably displayed by the grey-
green foliage of the Pine. There is a white form.

There is considerable interest in R. intricatum, an
evergreen species introduced from Yunnan by Wilson,
as recently as 1907. It has very small scaly leaves on
much crowded branches. It is often seen bearing its
small mauve flowers when no more than six inches high,
and is not likely to grow over two feet. It is not,
however, hardy enough to be planted in cold districts.

Another modern species from China and happily
more hardy than intricatum, is R. flavidum (primu-
linum) a dwarf evergreen with Myrtle-like leaves and
pale yellow, bell-shaped flowers in clusters. This
plant must not be confused with R. flavum (Azalea
pontica).

R. Przewalskii is a Chinese evergreen species,
compact in habit, with white bell-shaped flowers.

R. racemosum is a deciduous shrub from Yunnan,
dwarf and compact, with white or pale rose flowers in
clusters along the branches.

Among the hybrid Rhododendrons Early Gem is one
of the most suitable, for it is dwarf and blooms freely.
The colour is rosy lilac. This plant is often forced in
pots. R. compactum multiflorum could be planted.
R. arbutifolium, myrtifolium, and Wilsonianum,
all with rose flowers, are other dwarf hybrids well
suited to the rock garden.

The shrub-lover whose soil is free from lime should

174 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

endeavour to plant a selection of these dwarf Rhodo-
dendrons in his rock garden. They will serve admirably
for the upper parts of rock beds. Although they love
peaty soil they must not be planted in wet, undrained
bog, as they dislike stagnant moisture at the roots.

The Heaths and species of Erica will serve the same
purpose as Rhododendrons and thrive under similar
conditions — that is, in peaty soil on elevated, well-
drained sites. In districts where the natural soil is
peaty Heaths should be planted freely on the upper
part of sloping ground which is set with stones for
alpines. Sharply-sloping ground forms a natural place
for rock gardening, as with stones partially embedded
in tiers to give an approach to the appearance which
stones have when lying in their natural strata all
semblance of artifice is done away with. Ericas
carnea, ciliaris, codonodes and mediterranea may all
be planted ; the last two will sometimes tolerate lime.
E. carnea forms a dense carpet and is beautiful in early
summer.

The allied plant known as St. David's Heath,
Daboecia (or Menziesia) polifolia, may also be planted
with advantage. This beautiful little plant looks
charming in a peaty bed near the base of a rockery,
but the site must not be wet. It is essentially one of
the things that should be planted in some quantit}'.
Single plants have interest, of course, and better one
than none ; but the planter who can make a little
colony of them will enjoy them most.

Similar remarks, alike as to interest, soil, site and
planting, apply to the exquisite Pernettyas, the

THE THREE BEST DAPHNES, BLAGAYANA, CNEORUM, AND
MEZEREUM ARE ALL SUITABLE FOR THE ROCK GARDEN."
(See page 176.)
Colour photo of D. Cneorum by R. A. Malby.

SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 175

main interest in which lies in their pretty berries.
These shrubs are also admirable for the rock
garden.

A shrub which likes lime as much as the Rhododen-
dron resents it is the Cistus or Rock Rose ; moreover,
it is evergreen. It is the limestone garden-lover with
hot, dry sites to furnish who will feel the deepest
gratitude towards the Cistus. Vain is it to look
towards the Ericacaee (an order, be it noted, that
includes the Rhododendron as well as the Erica) when
a parched southern slope on chalk has to be furnished.
Wherever it can establish a foothold, be it only in a
handful of soil on a limestone bank, the Cistus will
thrive. The fact that its flowers only last a few hours
need not repel the planter, for he will find that a long
succession of bloom is produced, and more often than
not when he examines the plants, throughout the
summer, he will find flowers. The blossoms are as
beautiful as great single white Roses, or Japanese
Anemones. The species differ a good deal in habit.
The nomenclature of the genus appears to be straight-
forward enough, but when one sees the plants in the
large nurseries, it becomes apparent that great con-
fusion exists, and a reference to Sweet's old work
on Rock Roses shows that the same trouble was
experienced many years ago. Salvifolius and cor-
bariensis are sold indiscriminately ; the former has
a rounder leaf than the latter ; both are grey-leaved,
and comparatively dwarf. Still worse, cyprius, a
quite different species, is sold for both the foregoing ; it
has a bronzy green leaf.

12

176 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Ladaniferus and longifolius florentinus are rela-
tively tall. All those named have white flowers, but
a form of ladaniferus, called maculatus, often sold as
the type, has chocolate blotches. Crispus has purplish
magenta flowers.

In poor limestone soil, on a hot dry site, none of the
species is likely to grow more than three feet high, and
they will not make large bushes, as they will do on
better ground ; it is a question, however, if they are not
longer lived. Where the plants prove to be short-
lived, it is prudent to put in a few cuttings annually,
and they may be inserted in gritty soil in May.

A plant belonging to the same order as the Cistus,
and likewise a hardy evergreen that will luxuriate on
hot dry limestone soils, is the Helianthemum or Sun
Rose. It is even more valuable than the Cistus,
because it is lower and more spreading in habit and
produces a profusion of brilliant flowers over a longer
period. It is rarely out of bloom in summer, and the
double forms are particularly lasting. The planter
need not trouble about species here. He should get
florists' named forms, such as Kitty, Primrose Dame,
Pink Beauty, Fireball, Jubilee and Garibaldi.

The three best Daphnes, Blagayana, Cneorum and
Mezereum, are all suitable for the rock garden. These
little plants should have the special attention of the
small gardener, for they are neat and compact in growth.
They give, too, delicious perfume.

Azaleas of the mollis and sinensis sections and
hybrids between these species are, as we have seen in
previous chapters, particularly adapted for beds on

SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 177

lawns, or for " bays " along the front of large
shrubberies ; but they may also be used in the rock
garden, and they will be particularly at home in peat
beds at the base of a large rock bank.

The Brooms comprise species of widely varying
habit, and while Cytisus scoparius and its beauti-
ful forms Andreanus and sulphureus, C. albuSj
C. praecox, and C. Dallimorei are perhaps best suited
for borders and beds, dwarfer and prostrate kinds like
C. Ardoini, yellow ; C. hirsutus, yellow ; C. kewensis,
cream ; C. purpureus, purple, and its forms albus,
versicolor and incarnatus, and C. decumbens, yellow ;
are admirably adapted for the rockery. The last
named species is often found under the name Genista
prostrata, and an early yellow form called praecox (not
the same as Cytisus praecox, which is a cream-coloured
hybrid growing several feet high) is offered by florists.
Of the Genistas proper, hispanica and its variety nana ;
tinctoria and its double variety ; germanica, sagittalis}
and pilosa are suitable. G. tinctoria flore pleno is an
excellent small yellow shrub.

The mountain Avens, Dryas octopetala, with white
flowers, is a good plant.

The Magnolias are in the main too bulky for ordinary
rock gardens, but there is one deciduous species that
produces its glorious pure white flowers in advance of
the leaves, which is of slow growth and compact habit ;
this is stellata. The rock-gardener should seize upon
it as upon a gem of purest ray.

Among the species of Rose, which are a sealed book
to many people who claim a considerable knowledge of

178 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Roses — natural species, be it understood, not nursery-
man's varieties of hybrid origin — there are many
beautiful and interesting plants, some of which can be
brought into use for the larger rock gardens, especially
where there are arid banks to cover. For this purpose
Wichuraiana and its garden forms are admirably
adapted. Rosa arvensis, the Ayrshire Rose, is also a
straggly creeper. Of upright growers, cinnamomea
and its varieties ; sericea, an Indian species with white
flowers ; spinosissima and its forms altaica (white)
and lutea (yellow) ; the dwarf alpina and its beautiful
carmine form pyrenaica ; likewise pimpinellifolia
and xanthina, are all interesting. These Roses might
be planted on the summits of mounds, the faces of which
were planted with Alpines. Their light, free, graceful
growth and abundance of pretty single flowers give
a delightfully pleasing and natural effect .

A few selected Spiraeas may be introduced with
advantage. Decumbens (syn. procumbens) is a natural
trailer with white flowers.

The Veronicas comprise species suitable alike for
their flowers and their foliage. V. cupressoides is
grown for its habit and foliage ; it is quite cypress-like,
and evergreen. V. Hectori, also an evergreen, has a
pretty buff tint in the foliage in autumn and has
attractive lilac flowers. Incana, repens and Teucrium
are good carpet ers, but these are herbaceous. Epa-
cridea, with a buff tint in autumn, not quite hardy,
pinguifolia, decumbens, and Traversii are all good.

Yuccas, such as filamentosa and gloriosa, will serve.

Several of the smaller Conifers may be made use of

IN DISTRICTS WHERE THE NATURAL SOIL IS PEATY, HEATHS

SHOULD BE PLANTED FREELY."

(See page ijj.)

Erica carnea and alba.

Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN. 179

in the rock garden. Admirers of Japanese gardens
will not fail to observe the way in which these ever-
greens are pressed into service. The smaller the garden
the more cunningly are these little shrubs used to give
an effect of space and distance. A proportion is care-
fully maintained between them and the other occupants
of the garden. Picea (or Abies) clanbrasiliana, P.
pumila, and its form glauca, P. pygmaea, Cupressus
(or Retinospora) obtusa and its forms aurea, Crippsii,
lycopodioides, and gracilis aurea, C. ericoides, C.
pisifera and its form aurea, Juniperus Sabina and its
forms, particularly tamariscifolia ; J. hibernica com-
pressa and Podocarpus alpinus are all well adapted for
the purpose in view.

The creeping Cotoneasters, such as horizontalis and
Dammeri, are admirable for rock gardens. They are
close growers and have pretty berries.

Those who wish to practise Alpine gardening on
poor soil, and whose means do not permit of importing
better soil, should draw largely on small shrubs. They
will be particularly useful in the early days of the
garden, before the Alpines have become thoroughly
established.

CHAPTER XX.

Shrubs and Trees for Town and Suburban
Gardens and for the Garden City.

The Plane and Lime have long been regarded as the
best trees of the town, but it behoves us to remember
that several trees much more valuable than these for
flower or leaf beauty — trees such as the many forms
of Prunus, including the Almond, the Gean or Wild
Cherry and the purple-leaved Plum, the Catalpa, the
Mountain Ash, the False Acacia or Robinia, the Tree
of Heaven (Ailanthus) and the Paulownia — will thrive
in town gardens.

Those who learn their gardening from the civic
authorities become wedded to the Plane, but it is
more particularly a street tree. It certainly has its
value, for it will endure impure air and flourish in ordin-
ary soil. Moreover, it will bear a good deal of cutting.
This is par excellence the London street tree. In Berlin,
the Lime or Linden is favoured. This tree has a
strong odour when in bloom, which some people find
disagreeable; the point should be considered when
selecting trees for positions near houses.

The Wych Elm will thrive in town gardens, and the
Lombardy Poplar and Horse Chestnut are quite at
home in the suburbs of the largest towns. It has been

1 80

TOWN TREESgAND SHRUBS 181

mentioned elsewhere that the Lombardy Poplar may
be used as a kind of glorified hedge, for if planted about
six feet apart and beheaded at eight feet, it will throw
out a dense thicket of shoots from bottom to top of the
main stem, thus forming a thick screen. It is a tree
for utility rather than ornament.

The Horse Chestnut ought to be planted much more
freely in the larger suburban garden than the Plane,
the Lime, or the Poplar. It is neither columnar nor
cabbagy ; on the contrary, its habit is well balanced
and symmetrical. It spreads sufficiently to give
valuable shade and shelter. Of the beauty of its
flowers nothing need be said.

The Sycamore and the Maple will thrive.

The Mulberry might be thought of as a distinct and
interesting tree for the gardens of suburbs, small towns
and garden cities.

The Laburnum and the double red and white Thorns
may be planted in the suburbs and in garden cities
where small flowering trees are wanted.

The Aucuba occupies the same position as a town
shrub which the Plane fills as a town tree. It will
grow almost anywhere, and it will thrive in shade.

As commonly seen, that is, in its variegated form and
without berries, it is apt to ]ook " tame." When well
berried, however, and particularly if intermingled
with the green-leaved berry-bearing form, it loses its
monotonous effect. Planters should order both varie-
gated and green-leaved berry-bearers or female trees,
and also male trees to plant in the neighbourhood, for
in this shrub the sexes are on different plants.

182 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Another good suburban and garden city shrub is the
Euonymus, which will thrive quite close to the largest
town. It is a lively and exhilarating shrub. The
Japanese form should be chosen, because this is ever-
green, and one of the brightest varieties of it is latifolius
aureus, which is as good as a burst of sunshine on a
winter day.

The Golden Elder, which botanists know as Sam-
bucus nigra foliis aureis, is a good suburban shrub
and may be grown as a hedge if desired.

There is nothing better for a low wall in a suburban
or garden city enclosure than Pyrus (Cydonia)
japonica ; for a pillar than the yellow winter Jasmine,
nudiflorum ; and for an arbour or arch than
Clematis montana.

As flowering shrubs for the border, the following
may be used : Amelanchier canadensis, Berberis
aquifolium (B. Darwinii, B. stenophylla and others
thrive splendidly at Kew and would do in the garden
city), Colutea arborescens, the Bladder Senna; Daphne
Mezereum (this will do in surburban gardens, near the
largest towns and is deliciously scented), Deutzia
crenata flore pleno, Forsythia suspensa and F. viridis-
sima, Hypericum calycinum, Kerria japonica flore
pleno, Lilacs, Philadelphus grandiflorus (large
Mock Orange), Potentilla fruticosa (a low shrub that
could be used for the rock garden), Rhus Cotinus,
Ribes aureum, R. sanguineum and its forms (atro-
sanguineum is particularly rich in colour), Skimmia
japonica, Weigelas and Yuccas.

A little consideration of the foregoing will serve to

TOWN TREES AND SHRUBS 183

show that there is a much wider range of choice for the
town, suburban and garden-city planter than is
generally known. There are, of course, towns and
towns. There are acid towns like Widnes, coal towns
like Dudley, foundry towns like Lincoln, factory towns
like Sheffield, residential towns like Winchester and
Canterbury, garden-towns like Bournville, Letchworth
and Port Sunlight. Very few shrubs or trees will
succeed under the walls of huge works from the chimneys
of which volumes of gritty smoke and smuts or noxious
fumes are poured. But the largest of towns may be
harmless to most vegetation if factories are few and
well scattered.

The old kindly practice of planting trees for shade
along town streets is reviving. In the new type of
town we may expect to see wider thoroughfares than
in the old, and not only that, but a liberal provision of
corner sites and squares kept open for trees and shrubs.
In fact, there is a movement — a noble and wholly
beneficent movement — for wide streets and green
corners in towns instead of narrow streets and tavern
corners.

New communities have opportunities which the old
did not enjoy. Urban authorities have a large and
increasing mass of enlightened public opinion behind
them, and there should be no such evils either in the
towns or suburbs of the future as those which grew up
in the old, and which still throw their evil shadow
over the homes of the poor.

CHAPTER XXI.

Shrubs and Trees for Seaside Gardens.

The garden-wanderer who rinds himself by the sea in
winter never fails to note the cheerful colour of the
Japanese Euony muses, the bright glow of the Hollies
and the healthful tint of a shrub which in mild spells
may be full of bloom, the Laurustinus. Looking
farther, he may see that sturdy evergreen Escallonia
macrantha happy. These are lessons for him.

Before spring opens another beautiful evergreen,
Berberis Darwinii, may be in bloom ; and when it
attains its full beauty there will be nothing to vie with
it. Two things are important to the seaside gardener
in connection with this shrub : that it will thrive on
chalky soil, and that it will bear sharp shearing back.
Some early pruning is good for it. Without that, it
may tend to become gawky. One sees it sometimes
tall, freely branched and tree-like. It is far from being
without beauty in that state when in bloom, but as a
pyramidal shrub eight or ten feet high, perfectly
symmetrical, densely clothed in foliage, and in its
season a mass of brilliant orange yellow flowers, it is
in its most imposing garb. To secure that end, knife
or shears must be brought into play, for short branches

SEASIDE TREES AND SHRUBS 185

will be thrust out from the mass, and after (or before)
blooming they should be shortened.

Other of the Barberries also love the sea air.

With liberal planting of the four splendid shrubs
named, the seaside garden will be bright in winter and
spring ; but there are many other kinds to draw upon.

The Cotoneasters are charming, alike in leaf, flower
and fruit. We have seen that microphylla is ever-
green, and frigida partially so. These shrubs love the
soft saline air of mild seaside places.

The Cistuses and Helianthemums, which, as we have
seen in Chapter XIX., are invaluable for hot sites and
shallow soils, will grow in perfection, and give flowers
off and on throughout the summer.

The Ceanothuses will succeed, especially if planted
near walls.

That beautiful Broom, Cytisus scoparius, and the
still more beautiful hybrid form, Andreanus, will
thrive.

All the Ivies will be happy, and in poor sandy soil
there will be nothing so comfortable as the Sea Buck-
thorn, Hippophae rhamnoides, with its abundance of
pretty berries.

Roses will thrive if the soil is good, but as a class they
do not care for the light, sandy and gravelly soils which
are often found in seaside gardens. The likeliest to
thrive under such conditions are the hybrid Wichur-
aianas, which will be at home on banks, pillars and
arches ; and the great rugged Japanese Rose, Rosa
rugosa, which forms dense clumps.

Of the smaller flowering trees none will be more

186 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

contented than Thorns, Crabs (most kinds of Pyrus
indeed), Bird Cherry and other Prunuses, Laburnum,
Lilacs and Thorn.

One of the interesting features of summer will be the
Tamarisk, whose graceful, charmingly tinted plumes
grow in close masses — a harmony of brown and olive.
This beautiful plant loves sea air, and if planted a
yard apart will form a splendid garden hedge. It
should be protected on the most exposed side with
wattles in cold districts during winter.

Here already we have a wide range of material to
choose from, but it can be still extended to bring in less
familiar things : Atriplex Halimus, Baccaris halimi-
folia, all the Boxes, Coronilla Emerus, Elaeagnuses of
sorts (including bright varieties such as aurea marginata,
Simoni variegata, glabra aurea, the silvery microphylla,
and larger ones such as multiflorus and microphylla),
the Forsythias, Halimodendron argenteum, the
Junipers, the Laurels, Leycesteria formosa,the Lyciums,
the Mock Oranges, the Olearias, the Honeysuckles,
the Phillyrseas, Rhamnus alaternus, Rhododendron
catawbiense, the Ribes, the Willows, Shepherdia
argentea, the Spanish Broom, the Snowberry (Sym-
phoricarpus), Ulex europaeus (Gorse), the Veronicas
and the Yuccas. The hardy and vigorous Veronica
Traversii will grow in the poorest limestone soil.

As a protecting Conifer there is nothing more useful
than the Austrian Pine, which can be planted in thick
belts on banks of poor soil, and will endure almost any
degree of exposure. Pinus montana and the variety
Mughus, P. Laricio, P. Pinaster, Cupressus Lawsoniana,

ABUTILON VITIFOLIUM. A FREE FLOWERING SHRUB FOR A

SHELTERED CORNER.

Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

SEASIDE TREES AND SHRUBS 187

and its forms, andC. macrocarpa (the Monterey Cypress)
will thrive.

Clematis Flammula will prove one of the best of
creepers.

The Birch, the Beech, the Hornbeam, the Sycamore,
the Ash, the Poplar, the Evergreen Oak and the
Wych Elm will serve where large trees are wanted.

On very bleak, exposed places the list of trees must
be restricted. The Austrian Pine, the Larch, the
Corsican Pine and the Norway Spruce are good Conifers.
The Beech and Hornbeam are useful trees, holding their
brown leaves through the winter ; seaside nurserymen
often use the Beech for a hedge. The Ash, Poplar,
Birch and Wych Elm are also good. The Thorns, the
Hollies, the False Acacia (Robinia) and the White
Willow will endure great hardships.

The shrubs that will best endure rude buffeting are
Atriplex Halimus, the Aucubas, the Barberries, the
Laurel, the Bladder Senna (Colutea) the Cotoneasters,
the Brooms, the double Deutzia, the Euonymuses,
Gorse, Halimodendron argenteum, the Junipers, the
Privet, Lycium europasum, the Mock Orange, the
Phillyraeas, the Spanish Broom (Spartium junceum),
the Ribes, the Snowberry, the Guelder Rose
(Viburnum opulus sterile) and Veronica Traversii.
The last named has remarkable tenacity of life, and will
survive the roughest handling on the poorest, driest
bank.

CHAPTER XXII.

Shrubs and Trees for the Waterside.

There are subjects, such as the Willow, which become
particularly associated with the waterside, because
their love of moist places causes them to grow luxuri-
antly there. The Willow itself is not only well suited
by such conditions, but possesses forms which droop
gracefully over the water. There are, however, many
other shrubs and trees besides this.

The water in a garden may be pool, lake or streamlet.
There are cases where it is impracticable to drain a
garden except by collecting the water in some low-lying
part. If this is done, a pool, large or small, according
to the size of the place and the rainfall, is formed.

Should a garden be drained ? It depends upon the
soil and situation. A garden-maker who has to operate
on heavy, retentive soil, on a low-lying site, will find
it much to his advantage to drain. Without drainage,
it may happen that the surface soil is waterlogged for
many weeks during winter, and this is as bad for most
shrubs and trees as it is for most other kinds of plants.
Such a soil, in such a situation, would certainly be
improved by laying drain pipes or " tiles " in trenches
about a yard deep, and five yards apart.

188

WATERSIDE 189

It is not uncommon to drain land, but it is less
common to retain the water which the drains collect.
The general idea is to get rid of it by the simplest plan
available, such as to turn it into the nearest ditch. But
the garden-lover should think twice before deciding to
get rid of the water. He should think during a dry
spell in summer, as well as during a wet period in
winter. If, in the latter, he is inclined to get the water
off the place as quickly as possible, in the former he is
likely to think only of how he can keep it.

When drain-pipes are laid, it is easy to arrange for them
to converge on a low spot, and discharge their water
into a prepared pool instead of into a ditch. The
bottom may be puddled with clay or lined with concrete
in cases where there is a doubt about sufficient water
gathering to hold through the summer ; but where it
is reasonably certain, from the retentive nature of the
subsoil, the size of the place, and the rainfall, that a
good body of water will remain, no special provision
need be made.

The one serious drawback to a pool which is fed
merely by surface water, is that it tends to become
stagnant and foul. There is not the constant change of
water which occurs when a stream runs into and out of
the pool. The true garden-lover will never permit such
a pool to become a nuisance and an eyesore. He will
plant it with water-lilies, and clean it out every few
years, so that it is a feature of interest and beauty.

Another way of getting a pool or small lake in a
garden, is to take advantage of the passage of a stream.
At a selected point or points the bed may be widened.

i go GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

It may be possible, in some cases, to split a stream
into two, taking the sections round an island
mound.

There are, of course, instances where an area of
swampy ground exists, which cannot conveniently and
economically be drained. But the garden-lover is not
helpless. He has it in his power to make what might
be a " dismal swamp " or " slough of despond " an
interesting feature of the garden by judicious treatment
with proper plants.

We see, therefore, that " waterside " has a rather
wide meaning for the gardener. It may be still or
it may be running water. It may be a self-contained
pool or it may be a lake with inlet and outlet. In any
and every case, we can find means of dealing with it.
Whatever it may be, we can seize upon it and convert
it into a source of beauty and interest from the
gardening point of view.

To deal with all the plants suitable for the waterside
would be outside the scope of this work. Many of the
best are Alpines or hardy herbaceous plants, and these
have been dealt with in the sister volumes : "Alpine
Flowers and Rock Gardens," and " Hardy Perennials
and Herbaceous Borders." But there are many beauti-
ful shrubs and trees which will supplement the good
effect of the other classes, and these we may appro-
priately consider.

Of the larger trees one of the best is the White Poplar,
or Abele, Populus alba, which attains to its finest
proportions on a moist site. But practically all the
Poplars will thrive in moist soil. The Aspen, Populus

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tremula, becomes a magnificent tree in a moist clay
soil ; and its flickering leaves are never still.

The various Alders (Alnus) will also thrive, indeed,
they naturally inhabit moist places. The yellow-
leaved form is bright.

The Ash, the water and swamp Oaks (Quercus
aquatica and Q. palustris) and the Elder will succeed.
Elders are fond of damp spots, and on such sites
one may sometimes see thickets spring in a few years
from bird-sown seeds if there is shelter.

Of the smaller trees, one of the best is the mountain
Ash. Prunus Pissardii does not dislike a moist site,
and its brown leaves are very telling.

Many of the Conifers will thrive, notably Abies
Menziesii, the Cypresses, Austrian Pines, Tsuga cana-
densis, Thuja gigantea and Taxodium distichum. The
last, the Deciduous Cypress, browns over in autumn.

As regards the Willows, there are two forms of the
variety of White Willow (Salix alba) called vitellina,
which are worth planting for their coloured stems,
one yellow, the other red ; they are sometimes called
respectively the Golden Willow and the Cardinal
Willow. There are several Weeping Willows. Perhaps
the best known is Salix Babylonica,but the Kilmarnock
Weeping Willow, which is a form of the Common
Sallow, Salix caprea, called pendula, is very popular.
There is a yellow-stemmed form of Babylonica called
ramulis aureis. The Willows with coloured stems
should be particularly considered, because they are so
bright and cheerful in winter when the leaves are
down. A line of Willows may often be planted with

13

1 92 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

great effect to overhang a section of a stream. It
may also be remembered that they may be planted
in swampy spots. Here the Sallow comes in very
useful. Its catkins are conspicuous in early spring.

With respect to flowering shrubs, few are likely to
do better than the Viburnums, including the Guelder
Rose, V. opulus sterile, and plicatum, the Dogwoods,
Halesia tetraptera (the Snowdrop Tree), the Sweet
Gale, Kalmia glauca, Berberis Darwinii, such Brambles
as Rubus biflorus (with white stems), R. laciniatus
and R. fruticosus, the Cotoneasters, Ledum palustre,
the Tamarisk, the red-berried Elder (Sambucus race-
mosa) and its forms such as laciniata and plumosa aurea,
Spiraea Douglasi with red and S.Lindleyanawith cream
flowers (and of course the herbaceous meadow-sweets)
and the fine Reed (Arundo donax) which is second
only to Gynerium argenteum in beauty of white plume.

The stronger Bamboos, such as Arundinaria japonica,
A. Simoni and Phyllostachys viridi-glaucescens, should
be planted, for they will make noble clumps.

An idea for using the Bamboos is to set them in a
series of isolated clumps alongside the approach to the
water. For this purpose such imposing herbaceous
plants as Rheum palmatum and Gunnera manicata
will also be useful ; they produce gigantic leaves.

Elaeagnus macrophylla is a handsome shrub for the
margin of water.

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Clipped Trees of the old Dutch Garden.

The astute garden-lover will always make a point of
paying periodical visits to the larger nursery-gardens,
for not only will he be able to select plants there from
many growing together of the kinds he wants, but
he will also learn what is in favour with the public.
The nursery is a true reflection of current taste in plants.

During recent years, the visitor to these places will
have seen a feature that he did not see in them ten years
previously, and that is a colony of clipped shrubs, mostly
Confers, reminding him of the quaint figures seen in
pictures of old Dutch gardens. Prim are they, and yet
with an odd air of perky make-believe about them,
like a dog with a shaven back and tufted tail — self-
important, but humorously unreal. Grouped together
in the nursery, they form a strange conglomerate, for
some are cut into the shape of animals or birds and
others into the form of domestic articles. They have
a bizarre, almost a ludicrous, appearance. But in the
garden they are not huddled in this way ; on the
contrary, they are put in selected places, to vary the
interest of the garden.

The revival of topiary has caused heart-searchings
to the Nature school of gardeners, who are oppressed

193

194 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

by forebodings of a return to the stiff garden of past
years. There is no more fear of this than of a general
return to ruffs and wigs. Gardening is now so popular
that every phase of it receives attention. The ripples
of the wave have spread into remote backwaters, but
they are only ripples.

Mural decoration, called topia, was practised in the
houses of ancient Rome, and topiary is the adjectival
form of the word applied to the clipping of trees and
shrubs. Like topic and topical, the words come from
topos, a place. Topiary work is certainly very old,
and it reached the highest stage of popularity in the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The Yew was
always the favourite subject, but the Box and Holly
were also treated. All these shrubs will bear cutting
with impunity.

When the reader reviews the extremes to which
topiary went, he cannot wonder that a reaction set in
against it. Examples are on record of dogs, fowls
and pigs, as well as bottles, boats, seats, spirals, pyra-
mids, tables, birds, jugs, crosses, umbrellas, wigwams,
swans, lions and letters of the alphabet cut in Yew
or Box.

It is quite likely that topiary first began in the
clipping of trees to make them uniform with the
architecture of houses among the ancient Greeks.
From that to a peacock was not so long a step if we con-
sider that that resplendent bird has long been given a
place of honour on the terraces of great mansions.
It is beyond doubt that the Romans practised topiary
largely.

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A Ceilar dreaming by the fountain.
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Photo by R. A. Malby.

CLIPPED TREES 195

It established itself firmly in England in the six-
teenth century, and was highly popular in the seven-
teenth, when Charles II. brought over the famous
maker of the gardens at Versailles, Le Notre. Levens
Hall, the most famous centre of topiary in England
to-day, was given its great feature by Beaumont,
who was gardener to James II., and who had studied
the methods of Le Notre.

Inasmuch as topiary work was very popular in
Holland, it is not surprising that it was given a fillip
in England when James II. made hasty way for
William of Orange. " Little Hooknose " loved the
clipped Yews of the Netherlands, and encouraged their
spread in his new kingdom. The result was that
topiary ran riot, and men of taste began to revolt
against it. About the middle of the eighteenth
century a reaction set in, and in a few years clipped
trees all but disappeared from gardens. It was not only
landscape gardeners like Kent, Bridgeman and Brown,
but prominent writers such as Pope and Addison,
who attacked them. One can believe that it was the
pen which finally vanquished the shears. Topiary
still flourished in Holland, and when, towards the end
of the nineteenth century, there was something in the
nature of a revival, it was from the Netherlands that
our traders got their most striking examples. They
brought together collections at the large shows, and
people paused to gaze in curiosity. Here and there
a person bought, and there were just sufficient cus-
tomers to make the trade fairly lucrative to two or
three firms.

196 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Remarkable examples of topiary work still exist in
some of the larger English gardens. Levens Hall,
Westmorland ; and Elvaston Castle, Derby, are two
of the most complete, but examples may be found at
such places as Compton Wynyates, Mentham Court,
Sussex ; Montacute, Somerset ; Heslington, Yorkshire ;
Ascott, Buckinghamshire ; Witley Court, Worcester-
shire ; Friar Park, Oxfordshire ; and in many other
gardens. Almost every village shows some specimen
or another, if only in the form of a pyramidal Yew
or dome-shaped Box. And we must remember that
in every one of the many gardens in which we see
a Yew hedge we see an example of simple topiary.

What can be said in favour of clipped trees ? A
well arranged rock garden gives pleasure because it
shows beautiful Alpine plants growing in a natural
way. In herbaceous borders plants are grouped
for colour effects at various seasons of the year. Beds
of flowering shrubs give pretty leaf tints in early spring
and in autumn, flowers in spring or summer, and in
some cases brightly coloured berries in winter. The
Rose garden shows the Queen of flowers in beds and
on arches, chains and pillars. What does topiary work
give us in the way of garden beauty and interest ?

The answer must be that topiary is not in any sense
gardening as we understand it to-day, and it can only
serve a special and quite limited purpose in gardens.
It can form one of many features in a large garden.
There are garden-lovers whose tastes are catholic,
whose means are ample, and who have a wide circle of
friends. One can imagine a member of this favoured

CLIPPED TREES 197

class who opens his garden freely to his acquaintances
(and perhaps, on occasion, and for a particular purpose,
to the public) adding a collection of clipped trees to
the attractions of his garden, as much to interest his
visitors as to please himself. He has an Alpine garden,
he has herbaceous borders, he has a Rose garden, he
has a Shakespeare garden ; to those and other features
he adds a topiary garden.

Or there may be a person who loves to recall the sense
of old-time peace, seclusion and deliberation. His
mind is in the stately, slow-pacing past. He dislikes
modern flare and clangour. He sighs for the quietude
and perfume of the serene, placid, mellow, old-world
garden. The upbuilding of rock gardens impresses
him as rather tawdry make-believe, springing from the
modern Swiss conducted tour at so many guineas per
head. He looks on the herbaceous border as assertive
and even violent. Such a person would be happiest
in a garden surrounded by tall, thick hedges of Yew,
with perhaps a collection of soft -tinted Tea Roses, or of
border Carnations, by way of flower-beauty.

There is, perhaps, a suspicion of primness, as certainly
there is much of dignity, about such a personality.
The mind is composed, reflective, and orderly. One
can well imagine it clinging to tradition. It will
love the mellowness of old architecture. It has a rich,
ripe conservatism. It communes with the old poets
and essayists.

There is a suggestion of permanence, of discipline, of
substance about an old clipped Yew. It is not an
ephemeral thing. It is of the old order. It is a piece

1 98 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

of solid architecture, like a weather-stained building
that has withstood the tempests of centuries. It is not
of the giddy modern generation. And because of its
suggestions and associations, it presents a strong appeal
to the type of mind indicated.

The reader may have walked among carven trees
in some great garden. Has he not found himself over-
taken by a hush, a sense of repose ? Has not his step
lagged involuntarily ? Has not the pungent smell of
the Box taken him back into his own past ? From the
moment that he walked under the Yew arch at the
entrance of the garden he found himself in another
atmosphere. His mood became subdued, almost
reverential. He felt himself in commune with the
spirits of the mighty dead.

Let us not, then, dismiss topiary in all cases as
freak gardening. It is not in a freakish spirit that
clipped trees are planted and tended in many places,
but out of a genuine respect for the spirit of a past age.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Shrubs and Trees for Hedges.

The modern gardener has a laudable wish to combine
ornament with utility, and even in the case of so plain
a thing as a hedge, he seeks to bring in the garden spirit.
There are, however, certain practical considerations.
Boundary hedges may line public roads, and county
surveyors do not care to see hedges grow tall and loose,
because of the shade they throw on the road and the
check to drying which they cause. Or the hedges may
bound fields in which stock feeds, and in this case the
planting is governed by the habits of the animals.
Horses have no protective instinct which will stop them
from eating Yew ; although it is poisonous to them.
Sheep will desert grass for Privet, and play havoc with
a young hedge of that popular shrub if they can gain
access to it.

The tall, tangled, mixed hedge of many waysides is
a thing of joy. It way be a compound of Hawthorn,
Dog Rose, Bramble, Wayfaring Tree, Hazel, Sloe, and
Sweetbriar. There will be bloom on it from the
earliest days of spring, when

The first green shoots of tender corn

Show on the plough ; when the first drift of white
Stars the black branches of the spiky thorn.

199

200 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Throughout the summer it will be alive with bloom
and fruit, and in the autumn it may be sprayed over
with the profuse feathery achenes of the Traveller's Joy.

These wild and riotous old hedges linger along the
countryside, where roads look after themselves, and
farming is not keen. They are the development of a
century or more, and successive generations cf farmers
tolerate them. The birds love them. The village
children delight in them. Nuts, Elderberries, Black-
berries, and Sloes are gathered from them.

Can we have these grand old hedges in our gardens ?
We can, with time ; but they can never be forced like
mushrooms. Even a plain Quick hedge will take
ten years to grow into a thick mass four feet high and
capable of barring heavy stock. Quick (Hawthorn)
is certainly the best all-round boundary hedge. It
requires to be protected from cattle while young, but
when it has thickened and stiffened it will be hedge and
fence in one. A Quick hedge should never be hurried.
A good way of dealing with it is to plant it nine inches
apart, in a double row, shorten the plants to a foot high,
and each subsequent year to shear the annual growth
back to nine inches in winter. A hedge thus taken by
stages or tiers will thicken at the base and become dense
and hard in every part. The farmer's man generally
prunes a Quick hedge annually either with a billhook
or with a " bagging hook." In the former case, he
uses both hands to the tool, in the latter, he has
the "hook" in one hand and a hooked stick in the other.

When the Quick is planted, Brambles, Wild Roses,
Sloes and other things may be put in with it if desired.

HEDGES 201

There is nothing in any way picturesque about a
Privet hedge. Its great value lies in its rapid growth
and great sheltering powers. Even if it does not retain
its leaves through the winter (and in hard winters the
oval-leaved variety will cast most of its foliage, in spite
of the fact that it is nominally evergreen) it will, if
well managed, afford a good deal of shelter, because it
will be full of twiggy growth. Good management
here means hard and regular cutting back, as with
Quick. Privet is generally cut twice — in June and
in September — and a pair of shears are used. Plant a
foot apart. Even in poor chalky soil, a good hedge of
Privet may be built up in six years, so that it has at
least one advantage over Quick. But it is never really
fence and hedge in one, like the latter, for stock are
fond of it, whereas Quick, when well hardened, is
obnoxious to them on account of its abundant thorns.
Animals may nibble at its soft green tips, but will never
eat much of it.

The most useful of hedges for giving quick dense
shelter is certainly Laurel, for on almost any soil it
will be a dense mass five feet high in four or five years,
unless the site is very much, exposed to cold winds ;
but it is not suitable for a boundary hedge, because
cattle eat it down relentlessly. It has great vitality
and growth will spring from hard wood when old
bushes are pruned ; but it is an advantage to clip it
while the growth is young : because the work can be
done quicker with the shears than the knife. Young
plants about two feet high could be put in four feet
apart ; they need not then be cut back. In the second

202 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

year, at the most, they would begin to interlace,
and in the third would give appreciable shelter.
From this time shearing may begin and the hedge out-
line formed. Afterwards there will be no difficulty
for Laurel is nearly always growing and fresh shoots
follow rapidly on the cutting. Prune in early summer.

Yew is suitable for garden, but not for boundary
hedges. It grows slowly while young, and ten years
will be required to make anything like a hedge. But
if Yew is deliberate it is lasting. The plant is both very
hardy and very long-lived. And a dense, thick hedge
of it, four feet or more through, is a splendid shelter.
It should be clipped in late spring. It is poisonous
to animals.

There are many other hedge materials. The
Myrobalan Plum is excellent, and is largely used as a
substitute for Quick and Privet. It has one advantage
over Quick in its more rapid growth. It should be
treated in the same way.

Beech and Hornbeam are both used, more partic-
ularly by nurserymen, who esteem them because
they make excellent tall shelter hedges in a few years,
and, although deciduous, hold their leaves so thickly
and so long as to have almost the value of evergreens.

When inner garden hedges — or even boundary hedges
so long as there is protection — are considered, the names
of several interesting plants arise. What more beauti-
ful hedge could there be than one of Berberis Darwinii ?
This splendid evergreen is always attractive, and in
spring it is glorious in its mantle of orange bloom. It
thrives in most soils, does well near the sea, and bears

DIPELTA FLORIBUNDA AT KEW.
Photo by R. J. Walks,

HEDGES 203

cutting. And a hedge of Sweetbriar is worth thinking
of, because, apart from its intrinsic beauty, it is
delicious after rain. The Snowberry (Symphoricarpus)
and Lavender are also available.

We must not forget Holly, which makes a splendid
hedge in its own good time. It will move very slowly
for the first four or five years, afterwards much more
quickly. Early autumn is a good planting and late
summer a good pruning time. Quite small plants,
about two feet high, should be put in eighteen inches
apart.

We have seen good hedges of the American Arbor-
vitse (Thuja occidentalis) produced by sharp cutting
back for a few years. By thus pruning them while they
are young, before the wood has time to get hard, they
can be induced to make dense bushes. Cupressus
Lawsoniana is also excellent.

Box is perhaps more used as an edging than a
hedge, but for a low inner hedge there are few things
better ; there will be no dulness if a yellow tinted form
is chosen. The Golden Japanese Euonymus also
makes a bright, cheerful low hedge. Plant both of
these afoot apart.

As between a square-topped and a conical hedge,
there is this practical point — the former will hold a
great deal of snow and the latter will not. Hedges are
generally cut into a conical form. They widen grad-
ually from the bottom to the middle, and then narrow
again towards the top. This is merely a matter for
judgment in pruning. But there need be no hesitation
in having a square-topped Yew or Laurel hedge, for

204 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

these plants are not easily broken down. When
buying Yew stipulate for transplanted stuff.

There is also a practical matter to consider in planting.
When plants are to be set fairly closely, say eighteen
inches apart or less, it will be better to cut a con-
tinuous trench for them than to make separate holes.
This may be a foot or more wide and deep, according
to the size of the root-ball ; but in all cases the under
soil should be broken up and manured after the top
soil has been cut out and laid in a ridge at the side.
In cases where the plants are to go two feet apart
or more, holes may be made.

Beyond the annual pruning, there is not much
cultural routine with hedges. Such subjects as Privet,
Laurel, Beech, Hornbeam, Myrobalan Plum and Yew
can fend for themselves. Every two years a dressing
of manure may be given to Sweetbriar, Berberis, Box
and Arbor-vitae. Quick is benefited by annual digging
along it. Privet should not have this treatment,
Holly may be dug and manured until well established,
after which it will look after itself.

We have seen the monotony of a hedge of common
Holly broken by taking up shoots at every twenty-five
feet or so, and budding them with a good variegated sort.

The garden-maker who wants a miniature hedge
or glorified edging might plant the pretty silvery shrub
Euonymus radicans variegata.

It has been mentioned in another chapter that when
the Lombardy Poplar is planted closely and headed at
about eight feet high, it throws out a mass of side shoots
and becomes practically a tall hedge.

CHAPTER XXV.

Shrubs for Shady Places and Undergrowth.

Shade is grateful in hot summer weather, and in plant-
ing trees the fact that they will break the fierce rays of
the sun in the dog days is a strong consideration with
many garden-lovers.

A garden without shade is as incomplete as a garden
without shelter, but there is this difference, that shade
pertains rather to the comfort of human beings than
that of plants. To the latter, shelter means much
benefit, while shade may be inimical to them. Alpine
plants, herbaceous perennials, Roses, flowering shrubs,
indeed the vast majority of the most important plants,
love and are benefited by sunshine.

As a rule, it is quite easy to arrange a garden in such
a way that the larger trees shall not, when developed,
overhang the principal plants. The point is of great
importance, because the drip from trees acts adversely
as well as the shade. And this raises the consideration,
What plants could be chosen when existing areas under
trees are bare and some ornamental planting is
desired ? Not every tree will need to be thus under-
planted. One, at least, will be kept clear for seats,
perhaps for hammocks. But there certainly are many

206 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

tree-shaded places in gardens that the owner would
gladly plant if he could feel certain of success.

It must be confessed at once that the number of
good subjects is not great, nevertheless, it can be
made to suffice. There are two really ornamental yet
inexpensive evergreens which have no objection either
to shade or drip : the Aucuba and the Barberry called
variously Berberis aquifolium and Mahonia aquifolia.
The fact that the Aucuba is often overdone, being
planted in quantity on good sites to the exclusion of
various beautiful subjects, must not blind us to the
fact that it is a distinctly handsome plant. If it had
possessed no intrinsic worth, it would never have
attained to such popularity as it now enjoys. People
who like variety in their gardens tend to become
irritated by the repetition of one particular plant, and
this may grow until it becomes an unreasonable
prejudice. The Aucuba has had to endure many
harsh criticisms in consequence of this feeling. It is
the variegated form which is so much overplanted.
The female green forms are not overdone, indeed, many
people do not recognise them at sight. The habit is
good, the leaves large, glossy and handsome, the berries
brilliant and making a rich contrast with the leafage.
Plants eighteen inches or two feet high may be planted
six feet apart at any time when the weather is open from
October to April, inclusive, and they will require no
pruning or other cultural treatment.

As regards the Barberry, while a smaller plant than
the Aucuba, it is little less ornamental, except when a
winter comparison is made with an Aucuba in full

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SHRUBS FOR SHADE 207

berry. The habit is dense and the leaves are broad ;
they are deeply serrated, giving the plant a somewhat
prickly appearance. The flowers are yellow and
generally appear in April ; they are followed by small
Plum-coloured berries. The foliage becomes brownish
in autumn. Owing to its dense habit and suitability
for shade this plant is often planted by landowners
for their game coverts, and special quotations for large
quantities are made by the principal nurserymen.
Those who want it as a garden plant, and have a good
deal of shaded ground to cover, might vary it by using
some of the forms, such as fascicularis, Moseriana,
rotundifolia Hervei (or Herveyi), and undulata nana ;
the last is dwarf ; all of these can be got from the larger
nurseries. The Barberries might be planted four feet
apart.

Rhododendron ponticum is a fine old species that may
be planted under the lee and partly under the shade of
trees. One sometimes sees large belts of it on the great
estates, and remarkably effective they are in early
summer, when well furnished with their massive
corymbs of mauve flowers. It is, of course, ever-
green, its habit is excellent, and it is very hardy. It
may be planted eight feet apart. The dislike of
Rhododendrons for lime must be remembered in
connection with this noble evergreen.

The next most important plant for shade is the Holly.
If small plants are put in four feet apart, either in early
autumn or late spring, they will generally establish
themselves and thrive. They may not grow into such
handsome specimens, nor berry so freely, as in the

u

208 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

open, but they will be ornamental. There are many
beautiful garden varieties of Holly, but none is better
for shade planting than the Common.

Privet is so largely used as a hedge plant that a
suggestion for using it singly or in groups may surprise
the reader, nevertheless, it is by no means a bad shrub.
When grown in a hedge and left unshortened it is gawky
and ugly, as the plants " draw " up and become bare
at the base, but this is not likely to occur when it is
given room, and in any case can be corrected by
pruning back once or twice. The oval-leaved species,
known botanically as Ligustrum ovalifolium, should be
chosen. An advantage of this shrub is its liking for
poor limestone soils.

The foregoing will probably meet the wants of most
readers as far as the larger shrubs are concerned.

One of the best of the smaller kinds is the Butcher's
Broom, Ruscus aculeatus. It is not a strikingly hand-
some plant, but it will grow almost anywhere and is
evergreen. Another good small shrub is Gaultheria
Shallon, an evergreen belonging to the Ericaceae,
but fortunately not so exacting for a peaty soil as most
of the members of that order are. It will thrive in
sandy soil, or indeed in any fairly fertile moist garden
soil. It bears white flowers in spring and berries follow.
There is a garden form called acutifolia. Both the
Butcher's Broom and the Gaultheria may be planted
two feet apart.

The two best running plants for carpeting ground
under trees are the Periwinkles, Vinca major and
V. minor, and common house Ivy. The Periwinkles are

SHRUBS FOR SHADE 209

generally preferred, because their large blue flowers
are attractive. There are several garden forms of
Vinca minor, one with white flowers (alba) and another
with double blue flowers (cserulea flore pleno), one
with silver variegated and another with yellow varie-
gated leaves. The silver- variegated form is particularly
pretty. The Periwinkles may be planted a foot apart.

The new Chinese shrubs Sarcococca ruscifolia and
humile will prove an excellent addition to the shrubs
which thrive in shade. S. ruscifolia is the better of the
two. It is a vigorous shrub of good habit with green
leaves. Pachysandra terminalis is aso a good shade
shrub.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Hardy Shrubs and Trees for Forcing.

The departments of a garden are to some extent inter-
woven, and on occasion a subject which belongs to the
open air finds its way into the greenhouse. This is
particularly the case with certain shrubs, and one has
only to mention the Rose to present a shining example.

With the increased attention which is given to hardy
plants in these days, there is less disposition on the part
of many to go in for glass, nevertheless, there may be
some readers who are not only shrub-lovers, but have
greenhouses and conservatories to furnish. Can they
draw on the resources of their shrubberies with
advantage at any period of the year ?

The reply is that many shrubs may be lifted from
the open ground and forced into early bloom under
glass. Moreover, they will suffer no injury in the pro-
cess ; provided that the simple precaution is taken of
giving them a brief interregnum in a cool house before
returning them to the open ground. If a shrub were
put direct out of a warm house into the open air it
might be injured, however nominally hardy it might be,
in a spell of cold weather.

There could be no more convincing proof of the value
of shrubs and trees for indoor decoration than the

DOUBLE CHERRIES AND PEACHES . . . BLOOM PROFUSELY

WITH VERY GENTLE FORCING, AND THE FLOWERS ARE

EXQUISITE."

(See page 215.)

Prunus Pseuclo-Cerasus Yoshino, a Japanese variety.

Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

SHRUBS FOR FORCING 211

groups in pots and tubs which are set up at late winter
and early spring flower shows. The exhibits begin in
February j they grow more numerous in March ;
in April they are abundant. One sees many members
of the great genus Prunus, including Almonds,
Apricots, Cherries and Peaches. There are Pyruses,
notably, perhaps, Scheideckeri. Lilacs are prominent.
Tree Paeonies are represented. There are Azaleas and
Rhododendrons in rich variety. Magnolias are seen.
And there are less important but still beautiful things :
Wistarias, Spiraeas, Deutzias, Ribes, Laburnums,
Ceanothuses, Viburnum^, Thorns, Japanese Maples,
Amelanchiers, Staphyleas, Forsythias, and Kerrias.

The forcing of shrubs and trees may be either
casual or systematic. It may consist of merely
taking up a few things from the borders, a choice being
made where the plants are getting crowded, and plant-
ing them out again in a fresh place after forcing ; or
it may consist in setting apart a certain number of
plants specially for forcing purposes, treating them at
all periods of the year for the one particular purpose.
Plants so grown will not be kept under glass the whole
year ; they will be outside part of the time, but they
will have special quarters.

It is particularly trade growers who cultivate shrubs
systematically for forcing, but some owners of large
gardens do it with the help of their staff of trained
gardeners. With respect to smaller private places,
it would probably be hardly worth while ; but that is
a matter for individual judgment. The systematic
forcing of shrubs and trees is not a light and cheap

212 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

process. Large pots, a considerable quantity of
suitable soil, a reserve ground and a not inconsiderable
amount of labour are called for. These things arise
out of the size of the various plants. Shrubs and trees
are bigger things than Primulas and Cyclamens, thus
they call for larger pots. With larger pots more soil,
more space and more labour are required. There is
also the question of pruning to consider.

The issue once freely and fairly stated, we may go on
with a clear conscience to point out the great beauty of
certain shrubs and trees when forced into bloom in
winter and early spring. The most beautiful of all,
perhaps, are the double Peaches, of which a typical
variety is Clara Meyer, with its lovely pink flowers that
stud the branches closely. This can be had in bloom
in March. The double variety of Pyrus spectabilis
is another delightful subject, and makes a charming
companion for Scheideckeri. Both of these can be
flowered in March, several weeks in advance of their
natural season in the open air.

Lilacs are among the greatest favourites, because
apart from their beauty and perfume they force well.
The modern forms such as Marie Legraye, single white ;
Marechal de Bassompierre, double reddish lilac ;
Arthur W. Paul, double red ; Alba grandiflora, single
white ; Madame Lemoine, double white j Souvenir
de Louis Spath, deep brownish red, single ; Miss
Wiilmott, double white ; President Carnot, double
lilac; Grand Due Constantin, double soft lilac; and
La Ville de Troyes, purplish red single ; are beautiful.
The old variety Charles X., with purplish red single

SHRUBS FOR FORCING 213

flowers, that come white when it is forced in the dark,
should also be mentioned, as it is cheap and forces well.
These are all varieties of the common Lilac, Syringa
vulgaris ; but the Persian Lilac also forces well. Lilacs
grown for forcing are kept to about four shoots, all side
growths being removed at an early stage. The routine
for early winter bloom is to plant out in rows, in spring,
disbud as required throughout the summer, chop round
the plants in August, lift and pot in September, force
in a dark, hot place, harden after flowering, plant out
again, give a year's rest and repeat the forcing a
second season. To force into bloom in late winter or
early spring is a much simpler process, as only gentle
warmth is required and the plants may be grown in a
light house with other subjects.

For steady forcing to give bloom in late winter and
early spring, Lilacs and other shrubs and trees need not
be put in heat until the New Year, and then they should
only have a mild warmth of about 50 ° for the first two
or three weeks. After that, if convenient, 55 ° to 60 °
may be allowed. If greater heat than this is given, the
bloom will be earlier, but it will not last so long, unless
indeed, there is a second and cooler house into which the
plants can be shifted when they come into flower.
There is the further objection to hard forcing that a
greater strain is put on the plants. A moist atmo-
sphere, induced by syringing, is desirable while the
plants are swelling their buds, but a drier air is desirable
when the bloom opens.

After flowering, the wood which has bloomed should
be removed, and about half a dozen new branches

214 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

allowed to develop. With a limited number, the
wood will ripen well and there will be good bloom the
following year. This applies to most of the deciduous
flowering shrubs. Evergreen Rhododendrons will not,
of course, be cut back in this way. If the plants have
to be put out before the middle of May they should be
stood in a sheltered place, where they will not be sub-
jected to late frosts and cold winds.

Shrubs and trees that are to be kept in their pots
through the summer should be plunged up to the rim
of the pot, as this will save a good deal of watering.
Plants that have been lifted and potted for a casual
forcing may be planted out in May.

Two types of Azalea are largely forced : the so-
called Ghent Azaleas and the varieties and hybrids of
A. Mollis. The former are the little plants, with bare
stems a foot or so high, and dense heads of bloom, which
appear in florists' windows at mid-winter j they are
prepared for forcing in millions by Belgian florists,
and exported to nearly all parts of the world. They
need only be brought into bloom in the way already
advised, and they are so cheap that it is hardly
worth while growing them after flowering. They are
undeniabfy pretty, but they do not yield the beautiful
salmon, orange, buff and fawn shades which are found
in the Mollis type. Some of these are varieties of
A. Mollis, but the best are hybrids between Mollis
and pontica or Mollis and sinensis. Oswald de
Kerchove, salmon-pink; Floradora, orange ; Anthony
Koster, rich yellow ; Prince of Orange, orange ; Betsy
de Brain, yellow-crested ; Duchess of Portland, cream

SHRUBS FOR FORCING 215

and rose; J. C. van Thol, orange; Alphonse Lavallee,
orange ; J. C. van Thol Imperial, flame colour; Glory
of Boskoop, dep yellow ; Clara Butt, rose flame ; and
Louis Endz, orange yellow, are examples. They force
quite readily under the treatment indicated.

The double Japanese Cherries known botanically as
Prunus Pseudocerasus and P. Pseudocerasus James
H. Veitch have beautiful rosy flowers. Avium, the
wild Gean, with single white flowers ; Cerasus Rhexii
flore pleno, double white ; and serrulata, double white ;
are also beautiful members of the Cherry section of the
great genus Prunus which force well. As regards the
Peaches, Prunus Persica flore pleno, white ; the
crimson and rose forms, and the semi-double carmine
form called Persica flore pleno magnifica, are ah
splendid. They bloom profusely with very gentle
forcing, and the flowers are exquisite. Clara Meyer
has already been mentioned and is equally good.
Turning to Apricots, there are Prunus triloba, silvery
rose, and its double form flore pleno.

Pyrus floribunda, with rosy flowers, its double form,
flore pleno, of the same colour, and the variety or
hybrid Scheideckeri, blush changing to white, are all
forced ; the last, a lovely Crab Apple, that blooms
profusely, is particularly good.

Two of the most beautiful white Magnolias are con-
spicua and stellata, and both force well.

Cunningham's White is one of the best Rhododendrons
for the purpose, but the magnificent Pink Pearl may
also be used. The small dwarf blush-coloured species
ciliatum and racemosum can be flowered in March.

216 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Deutzia gracilis has long been a favourite for the
purpose and other Deutzias may be used.

Of Spiraeas, arguta, prunifolia flore pleno and
Thunbergii are excellent.

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora is a splendid plant
for forcing towards the end of winter.

Staphylea colchica, a very pretty white flowered
shrub blooming in the ordinary way in spring, forces
well.

There would be no trouble in adding considerably to
the list of shrubs and trees suitable for forcing, but it
is only desired to name the best. There are, of course,
hundreds of subjects of shrubby habit which, coming
from warm climates and not being hardy, have to be
grown under glass in cold countries all the year round.
But tender plants do not come within the scope of the
present work.

The Japanese dwarf trees are a class apart. They are
not tender, but they are grown in the greenhouse.
They are hardy kinds, but they are not forced. What
can be said of them but that they are " freak " trees,
produced by a remarkable yet unnatural method of
treatment ? They are, of course, expensive, and can
never enter into the real economy of a garden. But
these trees have interest, alike as a tribute to human
patience and skill, and as a proof of the wonderful
adaptability of plants. There are trees in existence only
a yard or so high at upwards of fifty years of age,
which in nature rise to fifty feet high. And some of
the dwarf trees are more than half a century old.

The Japanese habit of making miniature landscapes

JAPANESE DWARF TREES 217

created a demand for the dwarf tree. When a com-
plete garden is made in a space less than that of an
average town back-yard, there is little room for trees
of any kind, moreover, the methodical and correct
Japanese make a point of maintaining proper propor-
tions. In a landscape there must be trees. Where
the garden is small the trees, to be in proportion, must
be small also.

In course of time, these trees aroused the interest
of European and American garden-lovers, and the
astute Japanese developed a trade in the West. But
garden-making in Britain and America is rarely on so
restricted a scale as to make such material fitting in the
open air. The trees, therefore, were not planted out,
but grown in ornamental pots or other ware. As a
rule, they are grown together in a large, cool, airy
greenhouse. They form an item of interest under
glass corresponding with a collection of clipped trees
out of doors. They are not really gardening. They
are " collecting."

Root restriction and branch twisting both play a part
in forming the dwarf trees, but as no Western gardener
is likely to practise it, there would be no advantage in
devoting space to the matter.

" SHRUBS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED FOR THE ROCK GARDEN,
BECAUSE THEY ENTER INTO HARMONIOUS RELATIONS
WITH OTHER OCCUPANTS."

(See page 170.)
Spiraea arguta is here shown.
Painted by George Soper.

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PART IV.

Descriptive.

SECTION A.
Modern Shrubs and Trees, chiefly Chinese.

AND

SECTION B.

Notes on the Best Shrubs and Trees in Alphabetical

Order.

SECTION A.

Shrubs and Trees of Modern Interest,
chiefly Chinese.

As there may be many readers of the present work who
are well acquainted with the older genera and with
what may be called the " standard " species and
varieties of shrubs and trees, it has been thought
desirable to group the principal kinds of modern interest
in a chapter to themselves, in spite of the fact that in
some cases the genus to which they belong is treated in
other parts of the work. Any risk of confusion which
might arise from this arrangement is obviated by a
system of cross references and a complete index.

The majority of the kinds named are new, but there
are a few cases in which a plant long known to botan-
ists has come recently into commerce and is new to
most amateurs.

The most remarkable of the new shrubs and trees
have come from China. Many were collected there by
Mr. E. H. Wilson, Abbe Delavay, Dr. Henry, and
Abbe Farges ; others have been raised from imported
seed by various connoisseurs.

The travels of Wilson have been attended with almost
startling success. Ground hitherto untouched by plant
collectors has been explored, and genera and species

222 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

of entirely unsuspected beauty and interest have been
brought to light.

It would be no exaggeration to say that, great as the
developments in every phase of gardening have been in
modern times, there is none in which more remarkable
progress has been achieved than in shrubs and trees,
particularly Chinese. Before becoming attached to
the Arnold Arboretum in America, Mr. E. H. Wilson
explored Western China in the interests of a British
firm of nurserymen, James Veitch and Sons, Ltd., and
it was through this great firm that the best of his
early introductions were put before the public.

The successes of Wilson entitle him to rank with the
greatest of plant collectors, such as Douglas, Fortune,
Thompson, and Maries. It is probable that many
of his discoveries will find permanent places in the
gardens of shrub-lovers in Britain and America,
although some are of botanical rather than garden
interest.

We are far from being at the end of this wonderful
stream of new shrubs and trees. An enormous collec-
tion of seedlings in being raised and tested by the
Hon. Vicary Gibbs and others, while the present work
is in the press. Many of these are entirely new and,
judging by their appearance in the young state, are
both distinct and valuable.

Meantime, the following are notes of the principal
new and special kinds :

ACER. — Two interesting additions have been made
to the Maple genus by the introduction of Acer Davidii
and A. griseum, both deciduous trees, growing up to

N
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IBS

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 223

twenty-five feet high. A. Davidii is distinguished by
the fact that the bark is streaked with white on a
dark green ground. The toothed foliage is bronzy
red when young and shining green when mature.
The bark of A. griseum is brown and peels off in the
fall. The toothed trifoliate leaves are rosy when young.
A fine form of A. campestre, the common Maple,
called Schwerini, has been introduced.

ACTINIDIA. — The species chinensis is a deciduous
climber with heart-shaped leaves and yellow flowers.
The female form, more recently introduced, proves
to have deeper coloured flowers than the male. Henry i,
a new species introduced from China by Wilson, has
evergreen, coriaceous, toothed leaves, which have
rich colour in autumn.

AMPHIRAPIS ALBESCENS.— A compact shrub
from the Himalayas ; whitish leaves, violet flowers.

ARISTOLOCHIA. The species moupinensis is
new. It is a deciduous climber of rapid growth,
well suited to the pergola. The tubular flowers are
of a greenish yellow tinge, marked with purple.

BACCHARIS PAT AGONIC A. —This is much
superior to B. halimifolia, the Groundsel tree. It is
a small, free-growing evergreen tree with dark
green foliage and whitish flowers in June.

BERBERIS. — Striking additions have been made
to this important genus, already of great importance
with such popular and valuable members as Darwinii,
stenophylla and aquifolium. Acuminata has yellow
flowers, the young wood is red and the branches are
arched. Brevipaniculata is a dense upright deciduous

15

224 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

species growing up to six feet high, with obovate
leaves clustered on red stems, panicles of yellow
flowers, and rosy berries ; the bark of the young
shoots is red. Dictyophylla has serrate leaves in
clusters of four to six, dark green, on stiff upright
stems, of a grey colour when young, fruits coral red.
Gagnepainii is an evergreen with pale yellow flowers
and glaucous purple berries. Polyantha is deciduous,
height up to six feet ; yellow flowers and coral-red
fruits. Stapfiana is dense in habit, deciduous, and
with yellow flowers and small red berries. Verruculosa,
a dwarf evergreen, with small, thick, spiny leaves, has
yellow flowers on arched stems and purple fruits.
Wilsonse has scarlet berries. Bealei is a form of
aquifolium. It is not new but is little known, and
in the collection of the Hon. Vicary Gibbs is
remarkable for its beauty. It is an evergreen with
pinnate foliage, and bears lemon-coloured flowers
scented like Lily of the Valley at Christmas time.
Fremontii (syn. Mahonia Fremontii) is a glaucous
evergreen with yellow flowers and red berries.

BETULA. An addition to the Birches has been
made in alnoides pyrifolia, a small deciduous tree with
Pyrus-like leaves.

BRO USSONETIA. — Cucullata is a hooded form
of B. papyrifera, in the collection of the Hon. Vicary
Gibbs.

BUDDLEIA. — Hemsleyana and nivea, the former
with lilac flowers in erect terminal spikes ; the latter
remarkable for the leaves being covered with white
fluff, are new Chinese species.

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 225

CAMELLIA. — An addition to this great genus is
cuspidata, a dense bush with narrow leaves and single
white flowers. It was given an Award of Merit by the
Royal Horticultural Society.

CARAGANA AURANTIACA.—A dwarf species
with yellow flowers.

CATALPA. — There is a new species called Fargesii,
a deciduous tree growing up to forty feet high, with
five-lobed glabrous leaves and pale purple flowers.
Duclouxii is a Chinese species with glabrous, cordate,
three-lobed leaves, and pink flowers in clusters.

CELASTRUS. — There are two new species : hypo-
glaucus and latifolius, both deciduous.

CLEMATIS. — The importance of this genus is
so great that interest attaches to any additions, and
certainly the newcomers are worthy of the attention
which they have received. The red form of montana,
rubens, and the late blooming white form Wilsonii,
are both great acquisitions. Other new Clematises
are Armandii, an evergreen species with white flowers,
which appear early in April ; there is a figure of it in
the Botanical Magazine, T. 7897 ; nutans, with
creamy bell-shaped, drooping, fragrant flowers in
summer ; akebioides, a deciduous species with tri-
foliate toothed leaves and small pale yellow flowers ;
and Gouriana, deciduous, with compound leaves and
small, fragrant, creamy flowers in dense clusters.

CLERODENDRON . — Fargesii, a species of spreading
habit, with large acuminate leaves, sweet white
flowers in panicles and dark blue fruits, is said to share
the hardiness of C. Trichotomum.

226 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

COCCULUS. — Most of the known members of this
genus are hothouse evergreens. The two new species
heterophyllus and Thunbergii are hardy enough to
be grown on pillars and pergolas in mild districts.
The former is deciduous, the latter evergreen.

CORIARIA HIMALAYENSIS.— An evergreen
species with black fruit. Its hardiness has to be
proved.

CORYLOPSIS.— Multiflora and Veitchiana aie
interesting additions. Both bear yellow flowers in
pendulous racemes like Hazel catkins in winter, before
the leaves devlop. Veitchiana is the more vigorous of
the two. They received Awards of Merit from the Royal
Horticultural Society in 1912.

COTON EASTER. — The new Cotoneasters are
numerous. Humifusa is an evergreen trailer, useful
for covering banks ; the growth is vigorous but dense ;
scarlet berries are borne in autumn. Prostrata has
orange berries and is good for the rockery. Adpressa
is deciduous, and is well suited to the rock garden.
Dammeri is a dense creeper with scarlet berries,
excellent for the rockery. Divaricata is an evergreen
of low, free-branching habit, with dark green leaves
and scarlet berries. A First-class Certificate was
awarded to it by the Royal Horticultural Society.
Bullata is a vigorous species with clusters of shining
red berries. Salicifolia rugosa is a loose bush with
red berries on drooping shoots. Zabeli has dull red
berries. The last three received Awards of Merit
from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1912.
Fontanesii, red berries, grows three feet high.

THE LABURNUM MAY BE PLANTED IN THE SUBURBS AND IN

GARDEN CITIES."

(See page 181.)

The Laburnum is here shown growing in Kew Gardens.

Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 227

Pannosa is a low evergreen with slender spreading
branches, white flowers and red berries. Rugosa
Henryi is evergreen, with clusters of brownish berries.
Applanata is deciduous, with leaves grey below, and
scarlet berries. Francheti is an erect shrub with
white flowers and orange berries. Angustifolia has
spiny stems and red berries.

CRATMGO-MESPILUS DARDARL— This is a
graft hybrid between Crataegus and Mespilus, some-
times reverting in growth to one of the parents. White
flowers.

CYTISUS. — The interesting hybrid Dallimorei,
raised by crossing C. albus and C. scoparius Andreanus
at Kew, was put in commerce in the autumn of 191 2.
It is of dense habit, has small trifoliate leaves, and is
covered with rosy mauve flowers in late spring. C.
Beani is of rambling habit with yellow flowers. The
modern forms of scoparius, such as Butterfly, which
may be succinctly described as a pale Andreanus ;
and Daisy Hill, chocolate on blush ground, will not be
overlooked by shrub-lovers. All make good standards,
in common with most of the Brooms.

DAPHNE. — A dwarf evergreen species named
retusa, with shining leaves and fragrant white flowers
suffused with rose in terminal umbels in May, has
been introduced. See the Botanical Magazine, T.
8430.

DA VIDIA . — Involucrata, a Chinese tree with Lime-
like dark green serrate leaves, growing up to thirty
feet high, ornamental by reason of its white bracts,
flowered for the first time in England in 1911 from

228 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

seed sent from China by Wilson and sown in 1901. It
bears round fruit about as large as a walnut. The
inflorescence is drooping and comes from side spurs.
Of the two large bracts, one is nearly double the size
of the other. In China the trees grow up to fifty feet
high. It is quite hardy.

DEUTZIA. — This important genus has been revo-
lutionized, as much by the work of hybridists — most
prominent of whom is Lemoine of Nancy — as by
explorers. As regards new species, longifolia, Veitchii,
Vilmorinae and Wilsonii are all notable additions.
Longifolia has large blush flowers tinged with mauve.
Veitchii has corymbs of rosy flowers on arching shoots
in May. Vilmorinae, which was found on the mountains
of Setchuen, is a vigorous species, with large panicles
of white flowers in June. Wilsonii has toothed leaves
and white flowers. Both longifolia and Veitchii have
received Awards of Merit from the Royal Horticul-
tural Society. With respect to the hybrids and their
forms, they are so interwoven with the older species
from which they have sprung that it seems desirable
to deal with them in the section B., although many are
quite new.

DIPELTA VENTRICOS A. —An interesting decid-
uous shrub with Peach-like foliage and small brown
tubular flowers with white lip and cream throat. A
peculiar feature is the Acer-like seed wing.

DRIMYS AROMATIC A. —A Tasmanian ever-
green which requires the protection of a wall in northern
climes. It bears small white flowers in spring.

ERIOLOBUS DELAY AYE— A Pyrus-like tree.

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 229

ELEUTHEROCOCCUS HENRYI.—A deciduous
shrub with compound leaves, grey spiny stems and
globular heads of bloom. It bears dark purple fruit.
Two other Chinese species are offered : senticosus
and Simoni ; they are rare shrubs with palmate
leaves.

EUCOMMIA ULMOIDES.—A Chinese shrub
with large glossy leaves from which gutta percha can
be made ; but the seeds yield more. It is of little
garden interest.

EUONYMUS. — Sanguinea is a deciduous species
with toothed leaves which become rich crimson in
autumn. Alatus, the winged Euonymus, is remarkable
for its beautiful tint of rose in autumn.

EUPTELEA. — Davidiana is a small deciduous tree
growing up to twenty feet high. The foiiage colours
well in autumn. Francheti and polyandra are also
offered ; they are rare shrubs.

EXOCHORDA GIRALDII.—A new Chinese species
with white flowers about two inches across in spring,
the petioles, leaf-ribs and young growths are rosy
purple.

FORSYTHIA. — Europaea is a vigorous, free-growing
shrub of erect habit with yellow stemless flowers
which open in April. It was discovered by Dr. Von
Degen in Albania. It differs mainly in leaf from the
Forsythias previously described by botanists.

FRAXINUS. — Bracteata is an addition to the
Ashes with pinnate leaves.

GLEDITSCHIA DELAVAYI.—A species from
Yunnan, with strong thorns and pinnate leaves

230 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

composed of numerous leaflets. The fruits are used for
making soap by the Chinese, as are those of G. sinensis.

GYMNOCLADUS CHINENSIS.— This interesting
plant differs from the North American species cana-
densis, the Kentucky Coffee tree, in having violet
flowers and short pods ; the latter are used for soap
by the Chinese. When ripe the seeds are hard and
black, and are used for making rosaries.

HYDRANGEA. — Aspera is a deciduous species
with large cut leaves and pale mauve flowers in corymbs
in summer. As with other Hydrangeas, the outer
florets are sterile. The height is about three feet.
Xanthoneura is a somewhat taller deciduous species,
with cut leaves and creamy heads of white flowers in
summer. Sargentii is quite distinct from other
Hydrangeas ; it has large velvety leaves and bluish
flowers in broad heads, the outer florets sterile ; it
received an Award of Merit from the Royal Horti-
cultural Society.

ILEX. — Pernyi and Veitchii are striking additions
to the Hollies. Fargesii is also noteworthy. Pernyi
is distinct from the popular Hollies, forms of Ilex
Aquifolium. The habit is neat and dense, the leaves
small and pale green on the young wood, dark green on
the old wood. It was awarded a First-class Certificate
by the Royal Horticultural Society. Veitchii resembles
it, but is larger and more vigorous, with very spiny
leaves, thoroughly hardy and suitable for a lawn
specimen. Fargesii, with its narrow, lanceolate, spine-
less leaves is a very distinct Holly. Another interesting
Ilex is corallina, which has slender drooping branches,

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 231

dark green coriaceous toothed leaves three to four
inches long and coral red berries.

JASMINUM. — Beesianum is a new species from
China with bright red flowers, suitable for rambling
over stones on a rockery. It is vigorous and hardy.

JUGLANS. — An addition has been made to the
Walnuts in Cathayensis, a handsome species with
black fruit.

LEPTOSPERMUM.— The species scoparium, the
Australian and New Zealand Manuka, is a beautiful
small-leaved shrub, growing up to five feet high, with
white flowers in June, but of such doubtful hardiness
that it is generally grown under glass ; it may, however,
be cultivated outside in mild places. A larger form
called grandiflorum has been known, but a remarkable
new variety named Nicholli has appeared, in which
the flowers are carmine red and the leaves tinted with
purple. A First-class Certificate was awarded by the
Royal Horticultural Society. Another new variety is
Boscaweni, white with red centre. The Leptospermums
like a compost of peat and leaf mould with sand.

LIGUSTRUM — Henryi is an evergreen species
with glossy green leaves. Walkeri has light -green
shining leaves. Delavayanum is a small-leaved
evergreen from Japan.

LIQUIDAMBAR. — Formosana is the Chinese Feng
Tree. It is perhaps rather of botanical interest than
garden value.

LIRIODENDRON . — Chinense is described as quite
distinct from the well known Tulip Tree, L. tulipifera,
mainly in its flowers, which are much smaller and

232 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

differ in structural details, but are of the same colour,
greenish yellow. It may be expected to be quite
hardy in great Britain and America.

LONICERA. — One of the most interesting additions
to the Honeysuckles is the evergreen bush species
nitida, a beautiful little plant, as dense in habit as Box,
indeed a mass of small shining leaves. The flowers
are cream-coloured and fragrant. Pileata is a low
spreading grower well suited to the rock garden, also
an evergreen. Henry i is an evergreen climber, with
chocolate and orange flowers followed by purplish
fruits. A figure appears in the Botanical Magazine,
T. 8375. Prostrata is a deciduous species of
trailing habit, and therefore suitable for a bank.
The creamy flowers are borne in summer. Spinosa
(syn. Alberti) forms a straggling bush with clusters of
lilac flowers in early summer. Heckrottii has carmine
flowers, yellow on the interior. Belgica bears its
yellow fragrant flowers with carmine tube on red stems ;
it is an evergreen. Tragophylla is an evergreen with
long yellow tubular flowers, very beautiful, but not
strongly scented. Giraldii has bronzy velvety leaves
and violet flowers — a colour new in Honeysuckles.

MAGNOLIA. — Delavayi is a remarkable evergreen
species, with very large massive leaves and cream-
coloured flowers. Like grandiflora, it is suitable for
a lofty wall, but is possibly less hardy and had better
be planted on a sheltered wall.

OSMANTHUS. — Armatus is an evergreen with
large toothed leaves, which are bronzy green when
young and deep green when older. The flowers, which

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 233

are cream-coloured and fragrant, are produced in
Autumn. In this respect it resembles the well known
ilicifolius, but the leaves are much larger. Delavayi
is an evergreen from Yunnan, with ovate, acuminate,
toothed leaves and sweet white tubular flowers in
terminal clusters in early spring.

PACHYSANDRA TE RM I NALIS.— -This makes
a useful addition to the limited number of shrubs which
will thrive under the shade of trees. It is a dwarf
spreading evergreen from China and Japan. It may
be grown on the rockery. The white flowers are borne
in spring. There is a variegated form.

PAULOWNIA.— Fargesii, large white flowers;
Duclouxii, white, and imperialis alba, white flowers and
large velvety leaves, have been introduced from China.

PHILLYRJEA ROSMARINIFOLIA.—A neat
evergreen with small linear leaves a little more than
an inch long, good for the rockery.

POLIOTHYRSIS SINENSIS.— A tree introduced
by Wilson from China, with large ovate leaves and
greenish flowers in erect panicles. It bears a dry,
capsule-like fruit.

POPULUS. — Lasiocarpa is a new Poplar with enor-
mous ovate, cordate, bright green leaves. The species
is distinguished by the red tint of the leaf stalk and
midrib. It should have a moist place. Another new
Poplar is Populus alba Richardi, a variety with a
golden tint on the upper surface of the leaves, making
it quite distinct from the familiar white Poplar.

POTENTILLA. — Veitchii is a sub-evergreen
growing up to four feet high, with sprays of white

234 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

flowers produced in succession from spring to autumn
Vilmoriniana is a shrub three feet high, with small
silvery leaves and yellow flowers.

PRUNUS PSEUDO-CERASUS.—A magnificent
blush coloured form named Shirofugen is worthy of
ranking with the splendid James H. Veitch. The
colour is paler. The flowers are larger and even more
abundantly produced.

PYRUS.- -This great genus shows an addition in
Veitchiana, a tree of rapid growth, with ovate toothed
leaves and large dull red leaves. An Award of Merit
was made to it by the Royal Horticultural Society in
1912.

RHODODENDRON . — The modern species comprise
several plants which, if not of the highest importance,
nevertheless are of much beauty and interest. Dealing
mainly with the hardy kinds, and these in alphabetical
order, we take first Augustinii, which was named after
Dr. Augustine Henry. It is abundant in Western
China, where it grows up to twenty feet high. The
leaves are lanceolate ; the flowers are about two-and-a-
half inches across and vary from pink to pale purple ;
there is a white form. Chartophyllum, from Southern
China, is an erect evergreen with white, spotted flowers
about one-and-a-half inches across ; it resembles
an Azalea. Flavidum (syn. primulinum) is a small
evergreen shrub with Myrtle-like leaves and pale
yellow flowers. Harrovianum is an evergreen about
three feet high with mauve flowers in clusters.
Keiskei is an evergreen from Japan, six feet high, with
pale yellow flowers in clusters. Mucronulatum is

RHODODENDRON YUNNANNESE.
Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 235

from Central Asia, it is a low deciduous species with
rose flowers in clusters. Przewalskii is an evergreen
from China, with white flowers in corymbs. Race-
mosum is a distinct deciduous species from Yunnan,
two to three feet high, with small white or pale rose
flowers in clusters from the leaf-axils ; useful for the
rock garden. Rubiginosum is an erect evergreen from
Yunnan four to five feet high, with small trusses of
rosy flowers spotted with crimson. Yunnanense is an
erect evergreen shrub six feet high, with flowers in
open heads like an Azalea, white spotted with crimson.
The following should have sheltered places if grown
outside, as their hardiness is questioned : auriculatum,
from Hupeh, Central China, a tall evergreen, large and
beautiful white or rose funnel-shaped flowers. Ben-
thamianum, China, evergreen, violet flowers in threes.
Ciliicalyx, Yunnan, resembles formosum, bristly stalks,
flowers four inches across, white flushed rose, in large
clusters ; very beautiful. Decorum, China, large
leaves and fragrant flowers but of poor habit.
Delavayi, China, an evergreen resembling arboreum,
which is a Himalayan species ; dark red flowers two
inches across in a round head. Fordii, China, flowers
white, tinted pink, red spots, in corymbs, a compact
evergreen. Intricatum, a small dense evergreen from
Yunnan with small violet flowers in clusters of five.
Irroratum, China, an evergreen six feet high, white
spotted with rose. Lacteum, China ; bell-shaped
flowers in a close truss, white, blotched with purple ;
resembles Falconeri, a Himalayan species. Micran-
thum, China, small white bell-shaped flowers in

236 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

racemes. Scabrifolium, a small evergreen, with
white or pink bell-shaped flowers in umbels ; from
Yunnan. Pink Pearl and Alice are the two outstanding
garden varieties of recent introduction.

RIBES. — Laurifolium, a species with drooping
racemes of greenish yellow flowers, received an Award
of Merit from the Horticultural Royal Society in 1912.
It is an evergreen. Leptantha is also an evergreen
species with velvety green leaves. Giraldii has droop-
ing branches and greenish flowers.

ROSA. — Two interesting species have been intro-
duced in Moyesii and Xfyillmottise, the former bright
red, the latter rosy carmine. R. Willmottiae is
illustrated in the Botanical Magazine, T. 8186 ; it
has small foliage, principally in nine leaflets, and
brown stems.

RUBUS. — Several new species have been introduced
notably Henryi, an evergreen with grey stems ;
chroosepalus, with deciduous, simple leaves resembling
the white Lime, Tilia alba ; Veitchii, a deciduous
shrub with pinnate leaves and pubescent stems ;
bambusarum, a graceful trailer with trifoliate leaves
downy on the under side in common with the young
wood ; ichangensis, an evergreen with whitish shining
leaves ; and polytrichus, thornless branches covered
with red hairs, light green plaited leaves.

SARCOCOCCA. — Humile and the larger species
ruscifolia are evergreens with glossy leaves that are
important because they will grow under the shade of
trees. Ruscifolia is a vigorous but compact grower,
bearing white scented flowers.

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 237

SCHIZOPHRA GAL4.— Integrifolia is a deciduous
climber with white bracts. S. hydrangeoides is a
Chinese and Japanese species with white flowers which
climb by means of aerial roots and is suitable for the
pergola ; this was introduced as far back as 1879.
The Schizophragmas are very well described as climbing
Hydrangeas.

SPIRMA. — Henryi, mollifolia, Veitchii and
Wilsonii are all worthy of attention. Henryi bears
white flowers in corymbs on long arching shoots in
late spring. See the Botanical Magazine, T. 8270.
Mollifolia is of creeping habit and is suitable for the
rock garden. Veitchii is a fine species blooming in
July in white terminal corymbs. It is illustrated in
the Botanical Magazine, T. 8383. Assurgens is worth
growing for its prettily-tinted foliage alone, but the
inflorescence, in rosy panicles, is beautiful.

STRANVJESIA. — Undulata is an interesting ever-
green shrub, the principal beauty of which lies in the
corymbs of orange fruits. The flowers are white.
Glaucescens has glaucous leaves and white flowers.

STYRAX. — Wilsoni is a new Chinese species with
slender branches, ovate toothed leaves, brown stems
and small white single flowers with cream anthers, pro-
duced abundantly in spring, even on quite young plants.
An Award of Merit was given to it by the Royal Horti-
cultural Society in May, 1913. Officinale has sweet
white flowers in clusters. Height twelve to fifteen feet.

SYCOPSIS SINENSIS.— An evergreen growing
up to fifteen feet high, with ovate lanceolate coriaceous
dark green leaves, two to three inches long.

238 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

TETRACENTRON SINENSE.—A native of
Central and Western China, where it is a forest tree
with alternate, ovate and acuminate deciduous
leaves and small yellow flowers in slender spikes.

TILIA OLIVERI.—A Lime with heart-shaped
leaves, the under side of which is covered with white
down and the upper glabrous.

VERONICA CANTERBURY 'AN A.— A dwarf
evergreen species, growing about a foot high, with
pale green foliage and white flowers ; free and early ;
a good rock shrub.

VIBURNUM. — Important additions have been
made to this genus, notably in coriaceum, an ever-
green growing up to fifteen feet high, with creamy
flowers ; Davidii, a dwarf evergreen with ovate
coriaceous greenish brown leaves, white or blush
flowers in corymbs and small oval blue berries ; Henryi,
an evergreen with glossy lanceolate leaves which
produces panicles of coral fruit in autumn ; phlebo-
trichum, deciduous, white flowers in corymbs in
spring, scarlet fruit in autumn • rhytidophyllum, a
noble evergreen with magnificent foliage, dark green
above, downy below, yellowish flowers in corymbs
and dark red berries, First-class Certificate from the
Royal Horticultural Society ; theiferum, resembling
phlebotrichum, but larger throughout ; utile, an ever-
green with corymbs of white flowers in early spring ;
see the Botanical Magazine, T. 8174; buddleifolium,
long wrinkled leaves ; Sargentii, remarkable for its
very large leaves ; and Carlesii, white or blush fragrant
flowers, one of the best of the newer kinds.

A REMARKABLE NEW VINE.

Vitis Henry ana.

For description see Part IV.

Photo by R. A. Malby.

SHRUBS AND TREES OF MODERN INTEREST 239

VITIS. — The vines are supplemented by armata,
a dense grower which colours well in autumn ; armata
Veitchii, a splendid variety of brilliant colour ; flexuosa
Wilsonii, bronzy foliage, crimson on the under surface ;
Henryana, green leaves (red in autumn) with white
veins and midribs ; leeoides, pinnate leaves, red
above, green below ; megalophylla, a rapid grower
with enormous leaves j and sinensis, a species with
bright green leaves that vary a good deal in form.

ADDENDUM.

KOLWITZIA AMABILIS.— An interesting hardy
shrub, with small, oval, acuminate, oppcsite leaves,
chocolate-coloured stems, and pinkish-white, yellow-
throated flowers resembling the Weigela (see photo-
graph).

16

SECTION B.

Notes on the Best Shrubs and Trees, in
Alphabetical Order.

ABELE— The Abele is the white Poplar, Populus
alba, and is dealt with in Chapter IX. A good tree
for moist spots.

ABELIA. — Generally included in lists of hardy
shrubs, but as a matter of fact not quite safe in
cold districts in Northern climes. The flowers
are in drooping clusters. Floribunda, an evergreen,
rose flowers in spring ; rupestris (syn. chinensis) sweet
blush flowers) ; serrata (syn. uniflora), an evergreen,
pale red, sweet, spring, tender ; and triflora, cream, are
generally offered. They should have light soil con-
taining peat and leaf mould, and a sheltered place near
a wall.

ABIES. — As stated in Chapter XVII., where some
of the best of the Spruce Firs are described, this genus
is connected with Picea and Pseudotsuga. The
synonyms are stated in the chapter referred to.

ABUT I LON.— One species, vitifolium, is hardy
enough to be grown outdoors in mild districts, but
most of the Abutilons are greenhouse subjects. Viti-
folium bears pale blue flowers in July and grows up to

240

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 241

ten feet high. There is a white form called album.
The silvery foliage is an additional attraction to this
species, which is shown in one of the coloured plates.

ACACIA. — See Robinia.

A CA NT HOP A NA X.— See Aralia.

ACER. — Inasmuch as this deciduous genus includes
the Maples, the Sycamore, and the variegated Negundo,
it is one of considerable value. The Japanese Maples
described in Chapter XV., where some good varieties
are named, are very popular, as the foliage is in many
cases prettily cut as well as richly coloured. For
Acer Negundo variegata see Chapter XV., for the
Sycamore, Chapter IX. The best Japanese Maples
are forms of Japonicum and palmatum, particularly
of the latter. A. campestre is the common Maple.
A. platanoides is the Norway Maple, and of the several
varieties, Reitenbachii, Schwedleri and Walderseei are
popular. A. Pseudo-Platanus is the Sycamore ; there
is a particularly beautiful variety of this named
Prinz Handjery ; the foliage is of an exquisite bronzy
salmon shade in spring, and colours brilliantly in
autumn ; it is one of the most conspicuous objects
in a border in spring ; another good variety is Leopoldii.
A. rubrum is the scarlet Maple. A. saccharinum is
the Sugar Maple. A. dasycarpum is the Silver Maple.
A. rubrum is the only one of the Maples which should
be chosen for a damp site. A form of A. pictum has
attracted some attention during recent years, and is
offered by some nurserymen under the name of
colchicum aureum. The golden tint of the foliage is
noteworthv. Colchicum or Colchicum rubrum is simply

242 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

a synonym of pictum. Carpinifolium is the Hornbeam-
leaved Maple.

ACTINIDIA. — Deciduous climbers which might
be used for pillars and pergolas. Kolomikta is an
interesting and uncommon plant. Volubilis and
polygama are the best known. All these have white
flowers in summer. Chinensis has heart-shaped leaves
on hairy stems and yellow flowers, which it bears
freely on ripe wood in summer. The female form has
deeper coloured flowers than the male.

ADENOCARPUS.—A small genus, not entirely
hardy, all with yellow flowers. Anagyrus, foliolosus,
hispanicus and intermedius are the principal species.
Sandy loam.

MSCULUS. — This is the botanists' genus for the
Chestnut. The Horse Chestnut is Hippocastanum ;
see Chapters IX. and XX. Album flore pleno is a
double white form of it. Carnea (syn. rubicunda), with
pink flowers in June, is a beautiful small species ; there
is a good variety of it called Briotii. Neither of these
is likely to grow more than twenty feet high. A still
smaller species is parviflora (syn. macrostachya), which
has white flowers in late spring, and should not be
expected to grow more than eight or ten feet high.
Californica, a newer species, has narrow, glossy leaves.

AILANTUS. — The species glandulosa, the Tree of
Heaven, is a small deciduous tree grown for its hand-
some foliage. It is hardy, but strong, cold winds may
impair the leaves and consequently it should be
planted in a sheltered place. It does well in towns.
Where sub-tropical gardening is practised the Ailantus

THE NEW RED MOUNTAIN CLEMATIf

Clematis montana rubens.

I ,,, description see Pari W

Photo by E. J. Walks.

RAPHIOLEPIS JAPOXICA (R. OVATA).

A fine shrub for a sheltered wall.

Photo by E. J. Wallis.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 243

may be cut to the ground in spring if the soil is deep,
fertile and moist, as it will then produce splendid foliage.
The shoots should be thinned to one. Giraldii has
large compound leaves.

AKEBIA.— See Chapter XVIII.

ALATERNUS.—See Rhamnus.

ALDER. — The common Alder is Alnus glutinosa,
and it is useful because it will thrive in swampy
places. Several varieties of it are offered, of which
the most popular is aurea (foliis aureis) with yellow
tinted leaves. Crispa and laciniata are other
varieties.

ALEXANDRIAN LA UREL.—See Ruscus.

ALMOND. — One of the earliest blooming of
deciduous trees, sometimes flowering as early as
February. The beauty of the bloom is not injured
by frost, and the only effect is that the fructifying
organs are injured, so that the tree rarely develops
fruit in Britain. The Almond belongs to the genus
Prunus, to which reference should be made for the best
species. Chapters IX. and XXVI. also contain
references to it. Although the Almond likes a light
soil, it is not fastidious. It thrives in suburban
gardens.

ALPINE ROSE.— See Chapter XIX.

ALTHJEA. — See Hibiscus.

AMELANCHIER.— As stated in Chapter IX.,
A. canadensis (syn. Botryapium), is an attractive
deciduous shrub and much the best of the genus.
Apart from its flowers the autumn tint of the leaves
must be considered in its favour. Florida is the same

244 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

as alnifolia. Vulgaris is the common Amelanchier or
Snowy Mespilus.

AMERICAN ALLSPICE.— See Calycanthus. All
have white flowers in spring.

AMERICAN ARBOR-VITM.—See Thuja, and
Chapter XVII. on Conifers.

AMORPHA. — Two species are generally offered :
canescens, the Lead Plant ; and fruticosa, the False
Indigo. The former has blue and the latter purple
flowers in late summer. The blossoms are Pea-shaped
and produced in racemes. Height three to five feet.
There are several varieties. The Amorphas are not
thoroughly hardy and should have sheltered places.

AMPELOPSIS: — The best plant by far grown under
this name is Veitchii (syn. tricuspidata), which botanists
now call Vitis inconstans. Its rapid growth, perfect
climbing habit, neat foliage and beautiful colour in
autumn render it one of the best of house plants for
warm aspects. It is not particular as to soil. Nursery-
men offer plants in pots suitable for planting at any
time, but if the site is hot, planting should be done
before the end of March, and it is wise to cut down the
plants to within a foot of the base, and mulch with
short manure. There is a dark form called purpurea.
A. hederacea (syn. quinquae folia), the common
Virginian Creeper, is an altogether coarser plant, but
it colours in the fall ; muralis is a form of it.

AMYGDALUS. — See Almond and Prunus. The
Bitter Almond is Amygdalus communis amara and
the Sweet Almond A. c. dulcis ; but the genus is now
merged in Prunus by botanists.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 245

ANDROMEDA. — The best known member of this
genus, now that several species have been referred to
other genera, is polifolia, which grows about a foot
high and bears rosy flowers in June. Nurserymen
offer a narrow-leaved form called angustifolia. They
may also list arborea, which produces white bell-shaped
flowers in late summer, and makes a handsome bush
several feet high, and floribunda (Pieris floribunda)
white flowers in Spring, three to five feet. In common
with most of the Ericaceae, the Andromedas thrive
best in moist peaty soil in a sheltered place ; and they
enjoy partial shade. See also Cassandra, Leucothoe,
Pieris and Zenobia.

APPLE. — See Pyrus. The beauty of the orchard
should be considered in connection with ornamental
trees. The large flowered Apples are very beautiful
in their mantle of pale pink bloom, and might be
planted in gardens with ornament in view.

ARALIA. — The most interesting plant in this genus
for the garden is A. mandschurica, often grown under
the name of Dimorphanthus mandschuricus ; but
chinensis, ricinifolium and spinosa (syn. Acanthopanax
japonicum) are handsome hardy shrubs, valuable where
sub-tropical bedding is carried on . There are silver- varie-
gated and golden-variegated forms of mandschurica,
both beautiful plants, suitable for sheltered, sunny spots.

ARA UCARIA . — The only hardy species isimbricata,
the Monkey Puzzle or Chile Pine, which is referred to
in Chapter XVII.

ARBOR-VITjE.—See Thuja, Conifers, Chapter
XVII., and Shrubs for Hedges, Chapter XXIV.

246 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

ARBUTUS. — The beautiful Strawberry Tree, A.
Unedo, is well worth planting where a sheltered place
and light friable soil can be provided, as it will then
make a fine evergreen shrub nine to twelve feet high.
It is not only attractive by reason of its clusters of
white flowers in late summer, but by its large dense
red strawberry-like fruits, which are beautiful in
winter. Nurserymen offer several varieties of it,
Croomii, with scarlet honey-scented flowers, being
one of the best ; coccinea has pink and rubra red
flowers ; others are magnifica, microphylla, New
Scarlet and rotundifolia. A. Andrachne is a small
tree with laurel-like leaves, red bark and greenish-
white flowers. Other species are canadensis, densi-
florus, furiens, hybrida, mollis and tomentosa. As
members of the Ericaceae the Arbutuses enjoy a
peaty soil.

ARCTOSTAPHYLOS. — This evergreen genus is
close to Arbutus. The best known species is Uva-
ursi, an evergreen trailer with pink flowers in April.
It likes peaty soil. Calif ornica is a variety of it.

ARISTOLOCHIA.— Sipho, the Dutchman's Pipe,
with brown and yellow flowers in May, is a hardy
rambler which may be used for pillars and pergolas.
It is not particular as to soil.

ARISTOTELIA. — A small genus of evergreens.
Macqui is the only species much grown. It grows up
to six feet high, and has greenish flowers in May,
followed by black berries. Variegata is a form of it.
Sandy soil.

A RON I A . — See Crataegus and Pyrus.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 247

ARTEMISIA. — The species Abrotanum is the
well-known Southernwood, a deciduous shrub of no
great beauty, but liked for its powerful aromatic
odour, which comes from the leaves. The yellow
flowers are borne in summer. Camphorata is a small
shrub with finely cut perfumed leaves.

ARUNDINARIA.—See Bamboos.

ARUNDO. — Only inferior to the great Pampas
Grass in effect, Arundo conspicua is well worth
planting in moist spots or by the waterside. The silky
white panicles may be eight feet high in August.
A. Donax, the Great Reed, has reddish plumes fading
to white, eight to twelve feet high. There is a dwarf
form with striped leaves called versicolor, a variegated
form called variegata, and one with very large leaves,
called macrophylla. They should have a sheltered
place and a covering over the stools in winter.
Although used as shrubs and listed in shrub catalogues,
they are really herbaceous, but they hold their panicles
for several months.

ASH. — One of the most familial of our large decid-
uous timber trees, the Ash, Fraxinus excelsior, has
several forms, such as arbutifolia, argenteo-variegata,
(silver variegated), aucubsefolia and pendula (droop-
ing). The last named may be used for a lawn tree.
F. Ornus is the Flowering or Manna Ash, which pro-
duces panicles of creamy flowers in May ; angustifolia,
Mariesii and variegata are forms of it ; Mariesii is the
best. F. Americana is the White Ash. They are not
particular as to soil.

The Mountain Ash is Pyrus aucuparia.

248 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

ASPEN. — Populus tremula, see Poplar and
Chapter IX.

ATHROTAXIS.—See Conifers, Chapter XVII.

ATRAGENE.—See Clematis.

AUCUBA. — This popular evergreen is dealt with
in Chapters XX. and XXV. It will grow in almost
any soil and situation. Those grown are all varieties
of japonica. There are both male and female forms
of the type. The following are female forms : limbata,
fructu-alba, (white fruit), longifolia, vera nana and
viridis. Only female forms bear berries, and a
male plant is necessary for fructification.

A USTRIAN PINE.—See Chapters IX., XVII., etc.

AZALEA. — See Rhododendrons, also Chapters IX.,
XIII., and XXVI. The varieties named in the last
are also good for the garden.

AZARA. — Pretty evergreens with fragrant flowers,
suitable for low walls, or open bush culture. None,
with the possible exception of microphylla, are
thoroughly hardy, so that if grown in the open they
should have a sheltered place. Gilliesii, with yellow
flowers in spring and foliage resembling Holly, is
perhaps the best. Microphylla, however, is well
worth growing for its vanilla-like scent and autumn
berries. Dentata, integrifolia, lanceolata and serrata
are also offered by nurserymen. Leaf mould and peat
may be added to the soil, which should be well drained.

BACCHARIS. — The species halimifolia, the Ground-
sel Tree, is useful for seaside gardening ; it has white
flowers in summer. Ordinary soil.

BALSAM POPLAR.— Populus Balsamifera.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 249

BAMBOO. — We have seen in previous chapters that
Bamboos make beautiful clumps on lawns, and are
appropriate for an approach to the waterside. They
are full of grace, and make a splendid foil for more
massive evergreens, such as Rhododendrons. Given
sheltered positions and fairly fertile and moist soil,
they grow into magnificent masses. They like a
peaty soil, but are not very fastidious. Leaf mould
may be added to stiff soil. They dislike strong cold
winds, and exposed sites are therefore unsuitable.
The Bamboos are made up of four botanical genera :
Arundinaria, Bambusa, Phyllostachys, and Thamno-
calamus. Nurserymen are liable to confuse these,
and the pitfalls are indicated in the following selection
of the best : Arundinaria. — Fortunei variegata,
Hindsii, Japonica (Bambusa metake) nitida (a very
graceful species with purple stems) and Simonii (syn.
Bambusa Simoni) ; variegata is a form. Bambusa. —
arundinacea, marmorea, Nagoshima, nana and palmata.
Phyllostachys. — aurea, Castillonis, flexuosa, Henonis,
nigra, mitis and viridi-glaucescens. Thamno calamus. —
falcata (syns. Arundinaria falcata and Bambusa
gracilis) and Falconeri. The last is very hardy.
Arundinaria Veitchii (syn. Bambusa Veitchii) is
beautiful but far from hardy. Practically, all the
Phyllostachys are commonly grown under the name
Bambusa. The Bambusa tessellata sometimes met
with in gardens is the same thing as Arundinaria
Veitchii. If grown outside it might be put in a
sheltered part of a large rock garden. Large Bamboos
sometimes throw up flower-stems freely after growing

z
1-1

D

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THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 251

(syn. dulcis), Darwinii (the best), Knightii, Fortuneii,
stenophylla and Wallichiana (syn. Hookeri) ; of the
deciduous, concinna, Thunbergii and vulgaris and
its varieties. The newer kinds are described in
Section A. There are several forms of stenophylla,
such as corallina, diversifolia, erecta, gracilis, Irwinii
(good for the rockery) and latifolia. Pruinosa is a
rare Chinese species with glaucous leaves.

BERCHEMIA . — Most of the members of this genus
are not hardy, but volubilis, which bears greenish
white flowers in summer, may be grown on a pillar
or pergola. Racemosa variegata is beautiful on stakes
in a pot ; the foliage is exquisitely tinted.

BETULA (BIRCH).— The common silver Birch,
so much admired for its creamy bark, which peels off
in large flakes in autumn, one of the best known of our
smaller trees, is Betula alba. There are several
varieties of it, differing in the form of the leaf or
habit, notably fastigiata, laciniata, pendula, latifolia,
pendula Youngii and purpurea. It will grow in almost
any soil. Lenta is the North American Cherry Birch,
and is a forest tree, as is papyrifera. Populifolia
resembles the silver Birch, but is rather smaller.

BIGNONIA. — Only capreolata is hardy (see
Chapter XVIII. also Chapter XIII. for pruning)
unless grandiflora and radicans are included ; botanists
now put these under Tecoma. Both are scarlet.
Thunbergii is a late-blooming variety of radicans.
Both ought to have wall shelter. Ordinary soil.

BIOTA.— See Thuja.

BIRCH.—See Betula.

252 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

BIRD CHERRY.— See Prunus Padus.

BLACKTHORN. —See Prunus spinosa.

BLADDER SENNA.— See Colutea.

BOX. — The usefulness of this evergreen was seen in
Chapters IX. XVI. and XXIII. , while in Chapter
XXIV. its value as a hedge plant was shown. The
garden forms of Buxus sempervirens, such as argentea
and Handsworthiensis, are dense evergreens that will
thrive in almost any soil. They have an aromatic
odour. The fact that Box will bear clipping, and is
long-lived, makes it no mean rival for the Yew, with
those who like formal bushes and topiary. See
Chapter XXIII. Suffruticosa is the form used for
low edgings.

BRAMBLE.— See Rubus.

BRIDGESIA SPICATA.— See Ercilla.

BROOM. — Reference to the Brooms was made in
Chapter IX., also in Chapter XIX., where some of the
best Cytisuses and Genistas are named. The Butcher's
Broom is Ruscus aculeatus. See Chapter XVI., also
Cytisus and Section A.

BROUSSONETIA.—A small genus of deciduous
Japanese trees, of which only one species, papyrifera,
is much grown. Dissecta (syn. laciniata) and cucul-
lata are forms of it. The foliage is handsome, and they
are worth growing in a large collection of shrubs, but a
sheltered place must be provided, as they are none too
hardy. Ordinary soil.

BRU C KENT H ALIA.— Spiculifolia, which is offered
in some catalogues, is a Heath-like plant with purplish
flowers, liking peaty soil. The height is about a foot.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 253

It might be grown with other small members of the
Ericaceae in a peat bed at the foot of a rockery .

BRYANTHUS. — A member of the Ericaceae, liking
moist peaty soil. Empetriformis (syn. Menziesia
empetriformis) with purplish flowers in summer,
height about six inches, is offered.

BUDDLEIA. — This genus of deciduous shrubs is
dealt with in Chapters IX. and XVIII. Globosa
makes a useful and compact small tree, and is both
attractive and interesting when bearing its little
golden balls. It should have light friable soil and a
sheltered place. Variabilis Veitchiana bears splendid
panicles of purplish inflorescence. B. V. magnifica
resembles it, but has deeper coloured flowers. Both
of these are hardier than globosa, but enjoy a wall
border. Colvilei, crimson, is beautiful but tender.
They flower in summer and hold their leaves until
winter.

BUPLEURUM. — One member of this genus,
namely, fruticosum, is a hardy evergreen shrub. It
grows four to six feet high and has yellow flowers in
summer. It does best when pruned hard every spring.
Ordinary soil.

BUTCHER'S BROOM. (Ruscus aculeatus).— See
Chapter XXV.

BUXUS.— See Box.

CjESALPINIA.— Most of the members of this
genus are tender, but sepiaria (syn. japonica) may be
grown out of doors in mild districts . It is a beautiful
spreading deciduous shrub, with prickly stems and
large racemes of yellow flowers with prominent red

254 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

filaments. It blooms in spring. It should be given a
fertile, friable soil.

CALLUNA. — Vulgaris is the common Ling or
Heather, which grows so abundantly on the peaty
uplands as to form a carpet. White Heather is par-
ticularly esteemed. Searlii (or Serlei) and Hammondii
are two good white forms. Argentea, aurea and cuprea
have coloured foliage. There are many other varieties.
The Callunas are closely related to the Ericas, and
are often grown under that name. Although peaty
soil is desirable it is not essential.

CALOPHACA. — Nurserymen offer wolgarica, a
deciduous member of the Pea order, growing about a
yard high, with yellow flowers in early summer.
Ordinary soil.

CALYCANTHUS.— Floridus, the American All-
spice, a deciduous shrub, was referred to in Chapter
XVIII. C. prsecox is the same as Chimonanthus
fragrans, which was alluded to in the same chapter.
These deciduous, piquantly perfumed shrubs are most
at home in the angle of two walls.

CAMELLIA. — These magnificent evergreens are
unhappily too tender to grow in the open air, in
northern climes, except in favoured localities. One
sees glorious bushes of them, however, in Cornish
gardens, where they are as beautiful as Rhododen-
drons. The species Sasanqua may be grown on a
warm wall, and covered with a mat in severe weather.
It has white flowers, but there are varieties with single red,
double pink and double white flowers. A fertile com-
post of good loam with leaf mould should be provided.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 255

Planters should be guarded in accepting advice
to plant Camellias in cold places, which is based
mainly on successes achieved under special conditions,
as in Cornwall and mild parts of the Thames Valley.
It is, however, the fact that examples of success can
be quoted in which the conditions are not favourable,
and some suggest planting in the open rather than
against walls in order that the wood may become
well matured ; nevertheless, cold places should not
be chosen, for Camellias bloom early and the flowers
might be injured when the plant was not. In Cornwall
varieties of japonica make splendid bushes up to
eighteen feet high. Reticulata is also finely represented ;
this species has very large semi-double rose flowers.
Donckelaari is one of the best varieties of japonica.

CANDLEBERRY MYRTLE.— See Myrica.

CAPRIFOLIUM. — See Lonicera and Honeysuckle.

CARAGANA. — This deciduous genus belongs to
the Pea order (Leguminosse). Very few are offered,
but arborescens and its drooping form pendula are
sometimes seen ; more rarely one meets with Redowskii
and spinosa (syn. ferox and Robinia ferox). All have
yellow flowers in spring. They like a well-drained
loamy soil, not a damp, heavy soil and site.

CARPENTERIA. — The only species, californica,
is one of the most beautiful of the rarer evergreens,
having large white fragrant flowers in spring. It is
best grown on a low wall except in very mild districts,
as it is not fully hardy. Ordinary soil suffices.

CARPINUS. — This is the botanist's name for the
Hornbeam, a tree resembling Beech, and having the

17

256 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

same character of holding its withered leaves for a
long time in winter. It makes a good tall hedge.
The common Hornbeam is C. Betulus. Incisa is a
variety of it with ornamental leaves, and there are
variegated sorts. Ordinary soil. It thrives on moist
clay.

CARYA. — The species alba is the Hickory or
American Walnut, a deciduous tree of low growth,
but valuable on account of its tough timber.

CARYOPTERIS.— The species Mastacanthus (syn.
Mastacanthus sinensis) is one of the most interesting
of the smaller deciduous shrubs, and is admirable for
a collection of choice species, growing only about two
feet high, and bearing blue flowers in autumn ; there
is a white variety, alba. Although hardy they are not
comfortable in an exposed spot, and should have a
sheltered place. Ordinary soil.

CASSANDRA. — This genus is often associated
with Andromeda. Caliculata and its form angusti-
folia have white waxy floweis in spring. The shrub is
a member of the Ericaceae and likes peaty soil. It
grows two to three feet high. A hot, dry, sunny
position does not suit it.

CASSINIA. — See Diplopappus.

CASSIOPE. — A genus of the order Ericaceae, allied
with Andromeda. Tetragona, a low shrub about a
foot high, with white flowers in Spring, is offered.
They require, like the Cassandras, a moist peaty soil
with shade and shelter.

C AST AN E A (SPANISH CHESTNUT) — C. sativa
is the sweet Chestnut, the nuts of which are roasted

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 257

and eaten. Silvei- variegated and golden-variegated,
together with other forms, aie offeied. They are
handsome deciduous trees with greenish white flowers.

CASTANOPSIS. — Only one species is generally
offered, this being chrysophylla, the Golden Chestnut.
The upper surface of the leaves is deep glossy green,
the lower golden yellow. It is an evergreen shrub,
and grows slowly. Ordinary soil.

CAT ALP A. — One of the best of deciduous town
trees, C. bignonioides is unaccountably neglected, for
its flowers are very beautiful, and they come much
later than the blossom of the majority of flowering
trees. The foliage, too, is handsome. It is not a
rapid grower, and rarely attains to a height of more
than twenty feet. Syringiaefolia is the same as
bignonioides. Aurea is a yellow-leaved and purpurea
a dark form. Japonica (sweet), Kaempferi and
speciosa (syn. cordifolia) are also offered. C. bignoni-
oides makes a nice lawn tree. Ordinary soil.

CEANOTHUS. — References to this useful genus
will be found in Chapters IX. and XVIII.

CEDAR (CEDRUS).See Chapter XVII.

CELASTRUS. — Scan dens is a hardy deciduous
climber with yellow flowers in May. Articulatus is
not worth growing for its flowers, but the red fruits are
pretty. It should have plenty of room. Ordinary soil.

CELTIS. — Occidentalis is a hardy deciduous climber
with greenish flowers in spring. Ordinary soil.

CEP HA LA NTH US .—Occidentalis, the Button
Wood, grows up to seven feet high and bears white
flowers in summer. It likes peaty soil.

258 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

CEPHALOTAXUS.— Of the Chinese Yews,
drupacea, Fortunei and pedunculata with its variety
fastigiata (syn. Taxus japonica), are offered. They
are small Conifers, rarely more than ten feet high.

Chapter XVII. is devoted to Conifers, and references
to Conifers for lawns are made in Chapter XIV. The
claim of the Cephalotaxus for inclusion may be con-
sidered in connection with other Conifers described.

CERASUS. — This genus, which includes the Cherry,
is now merged in Prunus by botanists. It is important
to the tree-lover, because it yields several beautiful
spring-flowering trees. See Prunus, also Chapters V.,
VI. and XXVI. The plants offered in nurseries under
the name Cerasus include the evergreen species,
Laurocerasus and its varieties (see Laurel), and the
following deciduous species and their varieties : Avium
(varieties Juliana, pendula, latifolia pendula and
multiplex), Mahaleb (varieties pendula and variegata),
Padus (the Bird Cherry), Pseudocerasus (syns.
Sieboldii and Watereri ; James H. Veitch is a beautiful
double pink form j Choskin is paler, see plate ; Yoshimo
is a charming light pink, see plate) ; semperflorens (AH
Saints Cherry) ; serrulata, the beautiful double white
Japanese Cherry ; and sinensis pendula rosea, a droop-
ing single pink form.

CERCIDIPHYLLUM. — One species, japonicum, is
offered. It is a half-hardy deciduous shrub only met
with out of doors in mild, sheltered places. The
height is four feet. Greenish flowers in summer.

CERCIS. — A small deciduous tree of the Pea order
(Leguminosae) of much interest and beauty. The

PRUNUS PSEUDO-CERASUS CHOSKIN.
Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 259

most popular species is Siliquastrum, the Judas Tree,
which is hardy except in cold districts, where it should
have a wall and well-drained friable loamy soil. The
flowers are purple and white. The reddish seed pods
are also attractive. There is a white form, alba.
Canadensis, a species with red flowers, is also offered.
There are several other species, but they are little
grown. All Woom about mid-spring, before the leaves
appear.

CHAMJECYPARIS (WHITE CEDAR) —See
Cupressus.

CHERRY. — See Cerasus. The best of the forcing
Cherries are referred to in Chapter XXVI.

CHERRY PLUM.— This is Prunus cerasifera or
Myrobalana, much used as a hedge plant under the
name of Myrobella or Myrobalan Plum. See Shrubs
for hedges, Chapter XXIV. The variety cerasifera
atropurpurea is the well known purple-leaved tree
Prunus Pissardii.

CHESTNUT. — See iEsculus and Castanea. The
Chestnuts are referred to in Chapters IX. and XX.

CHILE PINE. — See Araucaria.

CHIMONANTHUS. — Fragrans is referred to in
Chapter XVIII. See also Calycanthus. Two or three
flowers of C. fragrans in a saucer of water will scent a
large room.

CHINESE ARBOR-V IT M.—Biotd, orientalis, the
same as Thuja orientalis See Thuja.

CHINESE PEAR.—See Pyrus.

CHINESE YEW.— See Cephalotaxus.

CHIONANTHUS (FRINGE TREE).— Two species

26o GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

are offered : retusus and virginica. They are beautiful
small deciduous trees, flowering in May and June. C.
retusus has white drooping flowers with strap-shaped
petals. Virginica also has white flowers. They like
peaty soil such as suits the Ericaceae.

CHOISYA. — The species ternata is a much admired
small evergreen shrub, not considered to be fully
hardy, and often grown on a sheltered border or
against a wall, but it is probably hardier than is
supposed, as it thrives on clay in an exposed place at
Aldenham House, near London. The habit is compact
and dense, the abundant foliage glossy. It produces
its white flowers in early summer. Good friable soil
is desirable.

CHRIST'S THORN.—See Paliurus.

CISSUS.—See Vitis.

CI ST US. — The best of the Rock Roses are described
in Chapter XIX. They are splendid shrubs for hot
dry banks.

CITRUS. — This genus includes the Orange and
Lemon, which can only be grown under glass in
northern climes. One species, however, is hardy, and
that is trifoliata, an evergreen shrub growing about
four feet high, with white flowers in summer.

CLADRASTIS. — Deciduous trees, of which two
species are offered : amurensis (syn. Maackia) and
tinctoria (syn. Virgilia lutea), the Yellow Wood. Both
have white flowers in summer. Sandy loam is desirable
as damp, stiff ground does not suit them.

CLEMATIS. — Some good varieties of Clematis are
described in Chapter XVIII. The shrub-lover may

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 261

well be excused if he feels embarrassed by the multitude

of riches when he surveys this important genus, for

in addition to the richly coloured hybrids and garden

varieties there are many beautiful species. The

problem will probably be solved by the space available

for supporting the plants. Where there are pergolas,

arbours, arches, summer-houses and other erections on

the place, accommodation can be found for a good

collection. A great effort will be made to find room

for C. montana and its red form rubens ; and by those

who love novelties for montana Wilsoni, which has

larger white flowers than the species and blooms

several weeks later. Rubens will flower when only a

foot high, and is charming for covering a stump or old

tree. Flammula, the Virgin's Bower, is both pretty

and sweet ; there is a garden form of this called rubro-

marginata, the creamy flowers of which are edged with

red. Of the other species, sethusifolia, with small

linear, much-lobed leaves and small white bell-shaped

flowers in late summer ; alpina (Atragene austriaca),

light blue ; calycina, cream ; coccinia, scarlet ;

cirrhosa, white, evergreen ; crispa, lilac ; grata,

bluish white, blooms in autumn ; graveolens, yellow ;

orientalis, white, sweet, and its variety tanghutica,

golden yellow (flowers in spring on previous year's

wood) ; and paniculata, white, sweet, an autumn

bloomer, will evoke admiration. Vitalba is that

beautiful wilding the Traveller's Joy, the feathery

white achenes of which cloud the tall hedges in

autumn. Coccinea is represented in many gardens by

hybrid forms such as Countess of Onslow, violet ;

262 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Duchess of Albany, . pink ; Duchess of York, blush ;
Grace Darling, rosy carmine ; and Sir Trevor Lawrence,
crimson. These are quite distinct in form from the
majority of Clematises, having tubular urn-shaped
flowers. Florida, white, a September bloomer ;
lanuginosa, blue, early summer ; Viticella, blue,
summer j and patens, white, early summer, are not
much grown as species, but are represented in gardens
by their hybrids, some of which are described in
Chapter XVIII. These differ in their flowering habit,
and consequently the notes on pruning in Chapter XIII.
should be carefully followed. Davidiana, a form of
heraclesefolia with blue flowers in summer, is
herbaceous ; and so is recta (syn. erecta) with white
flowers in summer. Indivisa and its beautiful variety
lobata are shrubs, but are not hardy enough to be
grown out of doors. The Clematises are not very
particular as to soil, but they do not care for damp,
stiff ground, nor for poor dry soil. Heavy soil should
be drained and made friable. Light soil should be
liberally manured. Plants can be bought in pots at
almost any time, but it is not desirable to plant in hot
weather, unless the plants can be shaded and watered
till established. It is wise to cut Jackmanii and its
forms hard back after planting, so as to encourage them
to throw up strong shoots from the base. This fine
hybrid and its varieties never give better results than
when pruned hard back late in spring every year. The
new shoots thus encouraged bloom much better than the
old. It is the same with the Viticella varieties. But
such treatment would not do for florida, montana,

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 263

lanuginosa, patens and their varieties. For modern
Clematises see the chapter on new plants.

CLERODENDRON.— The deciduous species tricho-
tomum may be grown out of doors in mild districts ;
the white flowers with red calyx are produced in August.

CLETHRA. — Alnifolia and canescens, both with
white flowers in summer, height three to four feet, are
hardy. The latter produces its flowers in long panicles.
They belong to the Ericaceae and like peaty soil.

CLIMBERS.—See Chapter XVIII. and various
paragraphs in the present section.

CLUSTER PINE.— Pinus Pinaster.

COCKS PUR THOR N.— Crataegus Crus-galli

COCCULUS. — See the chapter on modern plants.

COLUTEA. — Arborescens is the Bladder Senna, so
called because of its inflated seed pods. It is a
deciduous shrub growing eight to ten feet high, with
yellow flowers in summer. It will grow in almost any
soil and does not dislike an exposed site. Cruenta,
which has red and yellow flowers in summer, is also
offered.

COMPTONIA.—See Myrica. Asplenifolia is
offered.

CONIFERS.— See Chapters V., XIII., XIV., XVII.,
XVIII., and various paragraphs in the present section.

CORCHORUS.—See Kerria.

CORIARIA. — A small genus of which japonica, with
rose flowers in June, height up to five feet, is one of the
best. The Coriarias are not considered to be fully
hardy, but japonica is hardy on the clay at Aldenham
House, near London.

264 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

CORK OAK.— Quercus Suber.

CORNELIAN CHERRY.— Cornus mas.

CQRNISH ELM. — Ulmus campestris cornubiensis.

CORNUS (DOGWOOD).— These valuable shrubs are
esteemed alike fortheir flowers and their foliage. C.kousa,
formerly known as Benthamia japonica, with red and
yellow flowers, height up to eight feet, is rather shy
when young, but blooms freely when established. The
varieties of alba — in itself a good shrub, which grows up
to ten feet and bears white flowers in July — are
extremely useful ; Spathi and variegata are two of the
best ; the latter is very beautiful. Capitata has
already been referred to under the name of Benthamia
fragifera, by which it is still known. This grows up to
ten feet, and has white flowers in late summer, followed
by strawberry-like fruits. Florida is one of the best
species ; it grows up to fifteen feet and has white
flowers in spring. Nurserymen offer a red form, rubra ;
and there is also one with drooping habit, pendula.
Mas (syn. Mascula) which grows up to fifteen feet high
and has yellow flowers in late winter, is good ;
varieties called elegantissima aurea and variegata are
offered ; and there are others. C. Mas is known as the
Cornelian Cherry. The common Dogwood is C.
sanguinea, which has greenish flowers in early summer,
followed by black berries. Its red stems make it
ornamental in winter. Besides these, alternifolia,
Amomum, brachypoda, circinata, glabrata, macro-
phylla, Nuttallii and stolonifera are met with in
large collections. Nuttallii colours brilliantly in
autumn. Ordinary soil.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 265

COROKIA. — The species Cotoneaster, an evergreen
with yellow flowers, height up to ten feet, is offered.
It is not fully hardy, and should be grown on a border
under a warm wall. Ordinary soil.

CORONILLA.— Most of the Coronillas are her-
baceous, but Emerus, the Scorpion Senna, is a deciduous
hardy shrub. It belongs to the Pea order (Legumi-
nosae) and has yellow flowers in April. Height about
three feet. Ordinary soil.

CORSICAN PINE.— Pinus Laricio.

CORTADERIA.—See Gynerium.

CORYLOPSIS. — Two species : pauciflora and
spicata, are offered. Both have yellow flowers in
winter, opening in advance of the leaves, and grow up
to six feet high. They ought to be grown on a wall
border. Ordinary soil.

CORYLUS.— See Hazel.

COTONEASTER.— See Chapter XVI. and XVIII.
For special kinds see the chapter on modern plants.

CRABS. — The best Crabs, varieties of Pyrus baccata
and P. prunifolia, are worth growing both for use and
ornament. Crimson Siberian, Chicago, Dartmouth,
John Downie, Fairy Apple, Montreal Beauty, Cheal's
Scarlet Siberian, Lady Crab and Transcendent are all
beautiful and fragrant in fruit and have a brisk flavour.
Niedwetzkyana, with rich crimson flowers and
brilliant fruits, is a fine Crab from Turkestan ; it has
also good autumn leaf colour to recommend it. Other
beautiful Crabs, whether in flower or fruit or both, are
Pyrus floribunda, Halliana, melanocarpa (black-fruited)
Ringo (Japanese Crab), Scheideckeri, spectabilis, Kaido

266 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

and Toringo ; the last is a dwarf kind. The Crabs are
beautiful small trees for the shrub beds.

CRA NBERR Y. — Oxy coccus macrocarpus .

CRATAEGUS.— See Chapter XVI. also Thorns,
Chapters XVIII. and IX. Special mention was made of
the beautiful evergreen thorn, C. Pyracantha and its
variety Lalandii, as splendid plants for low walls, not
least because they hold their berries all through the
winter and do well in town gardens ; another variety
called crenulata is also offered. These evergreen
Thorns are splendid for walls with a north or east
aspect. Of the deciduous species, coccinea, Crus-Galli
(Cockspur Thorn) and Oxyacantha are the most
important. Azarolus, Carrierei, cordata, Douglasii,
flava, heterophylla, Korolkowii, melanocarpa, nigra,
orientalis, punctata and tanacetifolia are also met
with. Coccinea has white flowers and bright red
fruit ; corallina, corallina nova and maxima are
garden varieties of it. Crus-Galli has long, curved
thorns ; arbutifolia, Layi, ovalifolia, prunifolia, pyra-
canthifolia and splendens are garden varieties of it.
Douglasii is an early species with white flowers.
Oxyacantha is the common Hawthorn or Whitethorn ;
there are many good garden varieties of it, notably
aurea, yellow berries ; coccinea plena (Paul's double
scarlet), one of the best for a small standard tree ;
foliis-argenteis, silvery leaves ; fructu-luteo, yellow
fruit ; multiplex, double white ; pendula, drooping ;
praecox, early (the Glastonbury Thorn) ; punicea ,
scarlet ; and rosea, pink. A selection of these should
be grown in every garden. Standards three or four

RHODODENDRON LODERII.

Painted by Josephine Gundry.

■■■■■H

■MNMf*

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 267

years old should be set among shrubs. The Thorns are
not fastidious as to soil. For hedge Quick, see
Chapter XXIV. The Blackthorn is not a Crataegus
but a Prunus, species spinosa. The lover of Thorns
may soon have a selection of the best American
Hawthorns, introduced through the Arnold Arboretum
in America, at his service, such as Arnoldiana, Baxteri,
coccinoides, Dunbari, Durobrivensis, Ellwangeriana,
ferentaria, formosa, Holmesiana, Laneyi, pedicillata,
Pringlei and spissiflora.

CRINODENDRON.—See Triscuspidaria.

CRYPTOMERIA.—See Chapter XVII., Japonica
is the Japanese Cedar and elegans is a variety
of it.

CUNNINGHAMIA.—See Chapter XVII. This
Conifer must have a sheltered place.

CUPRESSUS (CYPRESS).— See Chapter XVII.
The two most important species are certainly Lawson-
iana and macrocarpa, but arizonica, funebris,
Goveniana, Macnabiana, nootkatensis (syn. Thujopsis
borealis), obtusa, sempervirens, thyoides (white cedar)
and torolusa (half hardy) are sometimes met with.
Lawsoniana is extremely valuable, and its varieties alba
spica nana, white tipped ; alba variegata, white
variegated ; Allumi, blue tint ; erecta viridis, columnar
rich green ; nlifera, threadlike ; gracilis and gracilis
aurea, yellow tinted ; lutea, yellow ; nana, dwarf ;
and Stewartii, yellow, are charming shrubs. Crippsii
is a variegated and lutea a yellow variety of macro-
carpa. The forms of Lawsoniana are so neat in habit
and pretty in tint that they are ideal evergreens for

268 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

small borders, vying with the exquisite Thujas.
Ordinary soil. Obtusa and pisifera are commonly
grown under the name of Retinospora in gardens and
nurseries.

CYDONIA.— See Chapter XVIII., C. Japonica (syn.
Pyrus Japonica) is the deciduous Japanese Quince.
Variety of colour or size is yielded by such garden
forms as atropurpurea, dark ; Aurora, salmon pink ;
cardinalis, coccinea, Knap Hill Scarlet, Moerloezii,
Candida, princeps, rosea and Simoni. The last is very
rich. Flore pleno has double flowers. Maulei is also
good ; alba, Leichtlini, perfecta and superba are good
varieties of it. They are all good for borders and low
walls. Ordinary soil.

CYPRESS.— See Cupressus.

CYTISUS. — This is the Broom genus. The Brooms
are among the most beautiful of spring shrubs •
Growing on most soils, they are perhaps at their best
on light, dry, sandy ground. Of dense habit, they
flower profusely. They make beautiful beds as dwarf
plants and are also useful as standards. The following
are the best hardy kinds : albus, the white Spanish
Broom, a strong, rapid grower ; Ardoinii, a yellow-
flowered trailer ; Beanii, yellow, a hybrid between
Ardoinii and biflorus ; biflorus, yellow, early ; decum-
bens, yellow, prostrate ; Kewensis, cream or pale
yellow, prostrate habit, a hybrid ; prsecox, cream or
pale yellow, early, a hybrid ; purpureus, purple ; and
scoparius, common yellow Broom ; the crimson blush
variety Andreanus, the cream albus (not Cytisus
albus) ; the pale yellow sulphureus and the new forms

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 269

described in the chapter on new plants are forms of
scoparius.

See also Chapter XIX.

DABOECIA.—See Chapter IX. and XIX.

DAPHNE. — See Chapter IX. Mezereum and its
forms alba, white j and atro-rubra, dark red, are
deciduous. All the following are evergreen :
Blagayana, a chaiming white trailer, blooming in
April, sweet ; Cneorum, a pink trailer, April, major
is a large rose form of it ; Genkwa, lilac flowers in
April, three feet high ; and Laureola, the Spurge
Laurel, greenish flowers in winter, height up to three
feet, purpurea is a dark form of it. Hybrida, hyemalis
and pontica are also offered. Odora (syn. indica) and
its variety Mazellii are not hardy. All the evergreens
are suited by sandy peat. Mezereum likes a more sub-
stantial loamy soil. See also Section A.

DAPHNIPHYLLUM. — Glaucescens, an evergreen
with ovate-lanceolate leaves having red midribs, and
a form called viridis are offered.

DARTMOUTH CRAB.—See Crabs.

D AVIDIA.— See new plants.

DECAISNEA. — Fargesii is offered as a hardy shrub,
but it should certainly have a sheltered place if grown
out of doors. It has pinnate leaves, yellow flowers in
May, and violet, sausage-shaped fruits. It is deciduous
and grows up to eight feet high. It is much the same
as insignis. Sandy loam.

DECIDUOUS CYPRESS.— Taxodium distichum.

DESFONTAINEA— Spinosa is a beautiful ever-
green, growing up to three feet high, with long tubular

270 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

scarlet and yellow flowers in August. It is not fully
hardy, and should not be planted in places exposed to
cold winds. A warm border under a wall, with an
admixture of peat and sand in the soil, suit it.

DESMODIUM. — Two species are commonly
offered : tiliaefolium (syn. nutans) and penduliflorum.
The latter is the same as Lespedeza bicolor. Tiliae-
folium has blue flowers in summer. They are
deciduous.

DEUTZIA. — These early and free-blooming deci-
duous shrubs are very useful in the border, particularly
crenata and its varieties, of which the double white,
flore pleno, is one of the best. Eburnea is a new
ivory variety of crenata. They flower profusely,
indeed, if pruned as advised in Chapter XIII. they
will be wreathed in blossom in spring. The bright
canes are not without ornamental importance.
Height up to six feet. Gracilis is smaller and is often
reserved for pot culture ; there are forms of it called
hybrida (or gracilis) rosea, carminea, campanulata,
eximia, multiflora and venusta. Lemoinei, which
flowers later, is a hybrid ; height about two feet ;
there are forms of this called Apple blossom, Boule de
Neige, Boule Rose, Avalanche and compacta.
Corymbiflora, white, height up to five feet, and its
garden form erecta, must be considered. Discolor
is a species from China, growing up to three feet high,
but compact, and bearing rosy white flowers in
clusters on the whole length of the arching one-year
old wood in June. Discolor purpurascens, with
comparatively long toothed leaves, dark above and

A QUEEN HE MODERN DEUTZIAS

D. discolor grandiJJora.
For description sec Part JV.
Photo by R. A. Ma/by.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 271

pale below, is a form of it, as is fasciculata, rose tinted.
Discolor floribunda and discolor grandiflora are hybrids
between discolor and gracilis. Discolor major comes
from Central China and has clusters of white flowers
in June. Kalmiaeflora, three feet, silvery rose, is a
hybrid (discolor purpurascens and parviflora). Par-
viflora, white, flowers in clusters, is very early.
Myriantha, a slender shrub with white flowers in June,
is a hybrid (corymbinora crossed with parviflora).
Scabra, height up to six feet, has white flowers in late
spring. There is confusion between this and crenata,
and the double white and double purple scabras of the
nurseries are certainly forms of crenata, not of scabra,
which is a stronger grower. Ordinary soil. See also
Section A.

DIERVILLA . — The same as Weigela. The hybrid
and variegated forms of rosea are grown under the
latter name in gardens and nurseries. Nurserymen
often offer Middendorfhana and sessilifolia under the
name of Diervilla. Both grow about four feet high,
and produce yellow flowers in summer. They may
offer amabilis and rosea as Weigelas, but these are
the same species, and are also synonymous with florida.
Height up to eight feet. The reddish flowers are borne
profusely in late spring. Numerous beautiful garden
forms are offered, such as Candida, white ; Eva
Rathke, dense red ; Conquerant, Dame Blanche,
Gloire des Bosquets, Looysmannii aurea, Madame Abel
Carriere, Pascal, P. Duchartre and Saturne. The
Weigelas are easily in the front rank of hardy deciduous
shrubs. They will thrive on almost any soil, and if

13

272 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

pruned hard after flowering (see Chapter XIII.) will
be dense masses of beautiful bloom for several weeks.

DIMORPHANTHUS MANDSCHURICUS.— See
Aralia.

D YOSPYROS. — Kaki is the Japanese Date Palm,
remarkable for its beautiful orange fruit. The foliage
colours well in autumn. It is not fully hardy, but
may be grown out of doors in mild districts if put on a
south wall. Canon Ellacombe, however has recorded
his belief in its hardiness. Light sandy loam suits it.
D. Virginian a is the Persimmon. D. Latus is the
European Date Plum.

D I PLOP A PP C/S.—Chrysophyllus is the same as
Cassinia fulvida, an evergreen growing up to four feet
high, with white flowers in August. Leptophyllus
is not quite hardy.

DIRCA. — Palustris, the Leather wood, is offered.
It is a deciduous shrub growing up to five feet high,
with yellow flowers in late winter. Peaty soil.

DOGWOOD.— See Cornus.

DRIMYS. — Winteri yields winter's bark, which
is used as a substitute for cinnamon. It is not quite
hardy, and must have a sheltered place. An evergreen
with a large oval leaf, and brown stem. Height up
to thirty feet. White flowers in May. Loam and
peat for preference, but will succeed on clay.

EDGEWORTHIA.— Chrysantha (syn. papyrifera)
a shrub with yellow scented flowers in spring, height
up to three feet, is offered in some lists of hardy
deciduous shrubs, but it is best grown in the green-
house.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 273

EDWARDSIA.— See Sophora.

ELMAGNUS (Wild Olive). — The evergreen species
are the most appreciated, such as glabra and its varie-
gated and yellow forms ; macrophylla, and pungens and
its forms aureo-maculata, aureo-picta and variegata.
Argentea (good for seaside) longipes and umbellata
are deciduous. Longipes is the same as multiflora, and
is a large handsome creamy shrub in the gardens of the
Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley. Ornamental
berries follow the flowers. Ordinary soil.

ELDER. — See Chapter XX. The Elders do well
in town gardens and at the seaside. As grown in
gardens they are forms of Sambucus nigra, aurea being
the Golden Elder. There are many varieties, such as
silver-variegated, white-fruited, cut -leaved (laciniata),
and pyramidal. Canadensis is the North American
Elder, which grows up to twelve feet high and produces
large cymes of cream flowers, followed sparingly by
purple fruits ; it does well at the waterside. Racemosa
has scarlet berries ; there are two or three forms of this.
Ordinary soil, if not dry, The use of Elderberries for
wine is well known in the country districts.

ELM. — See Chapter IX. The Elms are species
of Ulmus, with their forms ; thus the English Elm is
U. campestris, and the Scotch or Wych Elm is U-
montana. U. glabra-vegeta is called the Huntingdon
Elm and glabra cornubiensis the Cornish Elm. Dam-
pieri aurea and Louis van Houtte are popular varieties
of the English Elm. There are several forms of the
Wych Elm, including pyramidal (fastigiata), drooping
(pendula) and dark (purpurea). The Elm is a park

274 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

rather than a garden tree, and should not be planted in
avenues, owing to its habit of casting large branches
in summer. Elm foliage colours brightly in autumn.
The Wych Elm is a good seaside tree.

EMBOTHRIUM COCCINEUM.—See Chapter
XVIII.

EMPETRUM. — Nigrum and its forms scoticum-
rubrum and tomentosum are pretty little berried ever-
greens resembling Heaths, growing barely a foot high,
and thriving in peaty soil in a moist place.

ENKIANTHUS. — There are several species, but
only one, campanulatus, is frequently met with. It
is deciduous, grows up to six feet high and has red
flowers resembling Andromedas in summer. It is not
fully hardy, but may be grown outdoors in mild dis-
tricts. Peat and loam.

EPIGMA. — The only species, repens, is the May-
flower, a pretty evergreen trailer belonging to the
Ericaceae, with white fragrant flowers in summer.
Peaty soil, with shade and moisture.

ERCILLA. — Volubilis (syn. spicata) is the same as
Bridgesia spicata. It is an evergreen creeper with
purple flowers and might be used for walls like Ivy,
as it clings well. Ordinary soil.

ERICA (HEATH). — A Heath garden is no uncommon
feature of large places where the soil is peaty.
There is the peat of a wet bog and there is the peat of a
sandy upland ; it is the latter which suits Ericas.
There is no connection between the names Erica and
Heath, the former indicating the brittleness of the
stems, the latter a barren waste. The common Heath

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 275

or Heather, vulgaris, has been dealt with under Calluna.
Of those generally grown under the name of Erica,
arborea, australis, carnea (syn. herbacea) and c. alba,
ciliaris, cinerea and its forms alba and atropurpurea,
codonodes (syn. lusitanica) Mackayana, mediterranea
and its varieties alba and hybrida, Tetralix and its
varieties alba, intermedia and rubra, vagans (Cornish
Heather) and its forms alba, carnea and rubra, are the
most important. Scoparia, stricta and Veitchii are also
met with. Carnea and codonodes (lasting till summer)
flower in the winter ; vagans in later summer or
autumn; arborea, mediterranea and australis in spring ;
ciliaris, stricta and Tetralix in summer.

ERIOBOTRYA. — Japonica is the Loquat or
Japanese Medlar. It is not hardy, and can only be
grown out of doors on a wall in a warm district. The
white flowers may be followed by orange fruit under
glass, but not out of doors. Syn. Photinia
Japonica.

ESCALLONIA.—See Chapters XVI. and XVIII
Ingramii and sanguinea are forms of the popular rose
species macrantha. Langleyensis and exoniensis are
hybrids. Floribunda and Philippiana are also grown ;
both have white flowers in July, but the former is not
quite hardy. Ordinary soil. We find macrantha
quite at home on an exposed chalk bank, much wind-
swept and the soil poor. It is also to be recommended
for seaside gardens. It is the most generally useful,
with its dense habit and rich evergreen foliage, but
Langleyensis is very beautiful, with its long sprays of
pink flowers, and it grows rapidly.

276 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

EUCALYPTUS. —These are not hardy, but may
pass the winter in mild districts. Globulus, the Blue
Gum, is the best known, but Gunnii, ficifolia and
coccinea are also offered. Peat and loam suit them.

EUCOMMIA ULMOIDES.—See Section A on
modern shrubs.

EUCRYPHIA — Pinnatifolia is offered, a beautiful
shrub, nominally evergreen but often deciduous, grow-
ing up to ten feet high, with large white flowers
composed of four petals ; the prominent golden anthers
add to their beauty ; they are produced in July and
August. Peat and loam. Its hardiness has been
questioned, but it has passed through severe winters
unharmed at Kingston, near London. It is a Chilian
species. So, too, is cordifolia, an evergreen with
simple downy leaves and white flowers, not hardy.
Billardieri is an evergreen with simple leaves and white
flowers. An Australian species, not hardy.

EUGENIA. — Evergreens closely related to the
Myrtles and far from hardy. Ugni is sometimes grown
against a wall, but it must have protection in severe
weather. The fruit is ornamental.

EUONYMUS.—See Chapters IX., XVI., and
XXI. The forms of japonicus, such as yellow-
margined, gold-variegated and silver-variegated, also
radicans variegatus and radicans Silver Gem, are
beautiful evergreens. The Japanese set are splendid
for leaf-colour all the year round and are very suitable
for the seaside. The forms of radicans are suitable
for edgings. Europseus, the white-flowered Spindle
Tree, is deciduous : angustifolia, fructu-coccinea and

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 277

f ructu-alba are forms of it . Americanus, atropurpureus,
latifolius and verrucosus are also deciduous : but it
should be noted that there is a form of the evergreen
japonicus called latifolius, and sub-forms of it are
offered in the catalogues. Ordinary soil suits the
Euony muses.

EUPTELEA.—See Section A.

EURYA. — Although sometimes listed as hardy,
these are best kept in the greenhouse. Latifolia
variegata is very popular as a pot plant.

EURYBIA. — See Olearia. Eurybia Gunniana and
Olearia Gunnii are the same.

EVERGREENS. —See Chapter XVI.

EVERGREEN OAK.— Quercus Ilex, seeChapter IX.
also Oak.

EVERGREEN THORN.— Crataegus Pyracantha.

EXOCHORDA. — Two species are offered, Alberti
and grandiflora, both growing up to six feet high in
favourable circumstances, and bearing white flowers
in May, followed by fruits. They are beautiful
deciduous shrubs, worthy of a wall border with a
warm aspect. Macrantha has sweet white flowers in
spring. Ordinary soil.

FABIAN A. — Imbricata is a beautiful but not
quite hardy evergreen, suitable only for warm,
sheltered sites. Its height is about two feet, and it bears
white, trumpet-shaped flowers in May. Sandy peat.

FAGUS. — See Beech.

FENDLERA RUPICOLA.—A Mexican shrub with
white flowers in terminal clusters, height up to six
feet, lanceolate leaves. Best against a wall.

278 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

FIRS.—See Chapter XVII.

FITZROYA. — A hardy evergreen Conifer, from
Southern Chile. Patagonica is offered.

FLOWERING ASH. —See Ash.

FORS YTHIA .—See Chapter IX. Three are offered,
intermedia, suspensa and viridissima ; the first
is a hybrid between the other two ; all with yellow
flowers, height eight to twelve feet. There is a varie-
gated form of viridissima. Spectabilis is a good form
of intermedia. Densiflora and vitellina are also good.
The Forsythias are among the brightest of early-
blooming deciduous shrubs. They flower profusely
in advance of the leaves, the flowers drooping from
top to bottom of one-year wood. Ordinary soil.
They may be grown in open shrubberies or on walls,
and do well in town gardens.

FOTHERGILLA. — The species Gardeni (syn. alni-
folia) is offered. It is a handsome deciduous shrub,
growing four to five feet high, with white fragrant
flowers in spring. Moist sandy peat is desirable.

FRAXINUS.—See Ash.

FREMONTIA. — There is but one species, califor-
nica, a charming deciduous shrub, growing up to twelve
feet high, with yellow flowers one to three inches across
in spring and onwards. It is not fully hardy, and
should have a warm sheltered place except in very mild
districts. In cold districts it might be tried on a warm
wall. Sandy loam with peat, or some other light,
friable, well-drained compost is desirable.

FRINGE TREE. —See Chionanthus.

FUCHSIA. — Few shrubs are so graceful in gardens

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 279

by the sea in mild districts as the hardier Fuchsias,
such as coccinea and the forms of macrostemma,
namely, corallina, gracilis, and Riccartonii, which are
often listed as species. They have scarlet, crimson,
or purple and red flowers in summer. Corallina is the
most vigorous and may be used as a pillar or pergola
plant. The others form beautiful bushes up to six or
eight feet high. Ordinary soil. Propagation by
cuttings in summer. They are best treated as herb-
aceous plants ; as frost generally affects the stems
these can be cut down, and the stools covered with
ashes. We know of plants treated in this way that are
of very old standing on Wealden Clay in Kent.

FURZE or GORSE. — Ulex europaeus, a well known
wilding of the Cornish and other moors, where its
peculiar rather cloying odour fills the air. It is nearly
always in bloom, hence the Cornish saying " when the
Gorse is out of bloom kissing is out of fashion." There
is a double form, flore pleno, and it is far superior to the
single for gardens. It is one of the best shrubs for dry,
stony, or gravelly soil. Ordinary soil.

GARRY A. — Elliptica is a well known evergreen,
with greenish yellow catkins in spring, height up to
ten feet in the open, perhaps more on a wall. It does
well at the seaside. Ordinary soil.

GA ULTHERIA.— These shrubs are useful for shady
places, and like a moist, peaty soil. Procumbens, the
Partridge Berry, only grows a few inches high and has
white flowers in summer, followed by dark fruit.
Shallon is an evergreen, grows up to four feet high,
and has white flowers in May j there is a form of this

280 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

called acutifolia. Nummularioides (syn. nummulari-
folia) white or pale pink flowers in spring, is also offered.

GE AN. —The wild Cherry.

GENISTA. —See Broom and Chapter XIX.

GINKGO.— See Chapter XVII. Biloba, the
Maidenhair Tree, is the same as Salisburia adiantifolia.
There are several garden forms, including a drooping
and a variegated, but they are not generally offered.
It is a deciduous Conifer, and does well in towns.
Ordinary soil.

GLASTONBURY THORN.— See Crataegus.

GLEDITSCHIA. — The most popular species is
triacanthos, the Honey Locust, a really handsome
deciduous tree of the Pea order (Leguminosese),
up to fifty feet high, with greenish flowers in July. The
foliage is beautiful. A garden form called excelsa
pendulais offered. Sinensis (syns. horrida and ferox) is
also met with, and is remarkable for the large clusters
of formidable spines on the stems and main branches ;
a drooping form called pendula is offered and there are
others. Height up to twenty-five feet, greenish
flowers in early summer. Ordinary soil. The garden
forms are grafted on to the species.

GLYCINE.— See Wistaria.

GOLDEN ARBOR-VITM.—See Thuja.

GOLDEN LARCH.— See Larch.

GOLDEN-LEAVED CHESTNUT.— See Chestnut
and Castanea.

GOLDEN WILLOW.— See Willow and Salix.

GORDONIA. — A rare genus. Lasianthus and
pubescens, both white-flowered, are nominally hardy,

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES

281

but owing to the non-ripening of their late growth in
the often sunless autumns of Great Britain, they are
frequently injured. They need a sunny spot, but a
cool, moist, yet well-drained soil. Both are beautiful
and worth an effort on the part of connoisseurs,
especially those who enjoy grappling with difficult
subjects.

GORSE. — See Furze.

GREVILLEA. — While some of the species, notably
rosmarinifolia, may be grown out of doors, in mild
districts, the genus is generally represented by robusta
grown as a pot plant for conservatories and rooms.
It is very graceful.

GRISELINIA. — Littoralis, a small evergreen tree
growing up to twenty feet high, and its form macro
phylla, are offered as hardy subjects, but they should
have favoured sites, and fertile sandy loam. At the
seaside they are much hardier than inland, growing
into dense bushes. The flowers are not important and
fruit does not develop in Great Britain.

GUELDER ROSE. —See Viburnum.

GUM CISTUS.—See Cistus and Chapter XIX.

GYMNOCLADUS.— The best known species is
canadensis, the Kentucky Coffee Tree, a hardy
deciduous tree growing up to thirty feet high, with
white flowers. The foliage is attractive, being divided
into numerous leaflets. Pods rarely develop in Great
Britain.

GYNERIUM. — The noble species argent eum (syn.
Cortaderia argentea) is almost too well-known to need
comment. It is the finest ot grasses, and as grand an

282 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

ornament for lawns as the best of shrubs. It should be
given a prominent site, sheltered from cold winds.
Ordinary soil, well manured. Give top-dressings of
manure every two or three years. Several garden
forms are offered, such as albo-lineata, aureo-lineata,
monstrosum, Roi des Roses and Rendatleri.

HALESIA. — Two species are offered : hispida (syn.
Pterostyrax hispidum) and tetraptera, both small
deciduous trees with white flowers in late spring.
Tetraptera, the Snowdrop Tree, is the better known,
and it is one of the most beautiful of garden objects
when covered with its lovely drooping flowers. It is
quite worth a good place on a lawn in a sheltered place.
Good loamy soil, not very dry.

HALIMODENDRON.— One species is offered,
namely argenteum, the Salt Tree, a deciduous shrub
with hoary leaves and pink flowers, growing up to
six feet high in good loamy soil.

HAMAMELIS. (WITCH HAZEL).— As winter
bloomers these small but beautiful deciduous shrubs
with their quaint crinkled flowers have a special claim
on attention. Mollis is a lovely object when full of
golden bloom in advance of its leaves on a winter day,
bright and cheerful amid frost and snow. Arborea,
claret and yellow ; japonica, yellow, and its variety
Zuccariniana, yellow and brown; and virginica, yellow,
are also offered. They should be planted at the front
of the shrubbery or under a wall, preferably in groups.
Well drained friable soil will do, but loam with a little
peat gives the best results.

HAWTHORN.— See Crataegus.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 283

HAZEL. — The Hazel Nut tree is Corylus Avellana,
and is more important for economic than for
ornamental purposes, nevertheless, such forms as
aurea, laciniata, pendula and the purple-leaved pur-
purea (syn. maxima atropurpurea) may be considered
for the shrubbery, particularly the last named, which
has rich purple foliage. It is best pruned hard back
every three years, when it colours splendidly and makes
an admirable base or background for golden and silvery
leaved shrubs and small trees. Ordinary soil.

HEATH. — See Erica and Chapter XIX.

HEDERA. — This is the Ivy genus. For good varie-
ties see Chapter XVIII.

HEDGEHOG HOLLY. —See Holly.

HEDGE PLANTS.—See Chapter XXIV.

HEDYSARUM. — Multijugum is a deciduous shrub
growing up to five feet high, with purplish red flowers
in summer. Ordinary soil. Coronarium, the French
Honeysuckle, is herbaceous.

HELIANTHEMUM.—See Chapter XIX. The
named varieties of gardens and nurseries are forms of
vulgare and are valuable for hot, dry, sunny banks,
where the soil is poor and shallow. They will grow
almost anywhere, are evergreen, and bloom all the
summer.

HEMLOCK SPRUCE.— Abies canadensis.

HIBISCUS (ROSE OF SHARON).— The garden
forms of syriacus (syn. Althaea frutex), such as rubis,
Celeste, Meehani, Totus albus, La Reine, Admiral
Dewey, Violet clair, Pompon Rouge, Puniceus, Alice,
Leopoldii, monstruosa, Boule de feu and albo-plenus

284 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

(there are many others, single and double) are very-
useful dwarf deciduous shrubs owing to their late
period of flowering, which is late summer and autumn.
There is a variegated form. The habit is neat and com-
pact. The foliage is distinct and handsome. They
are very good as standards. Ordinary soil if not damp
and cold.

HICKORY.— See Carya.

HIPPOPHAE.— Rhamnoides is the Sea Buckthorn,
which grows on sand hills by the sea and has silvery
foliage and yellow berries in late summer. It is
suitable for planting inland near water. See Chap-
ter XXII. Two forms are offered : fcemina and
mascula ; and as the sexes are on different plants it is
necessary to plant both — as in the case of Aucubas —
to insure berries. The forms are much alike in spring
and summer. The female form is quite tree-like on
clay soil at Aldenham House, near London, and berries
freely on the lower part under the influence of a small
bush of the male form growing near.

HOLLY. — The Hollies of our gardens are forms of
Ilex Aquifolium, the common Holly, which is too
familiar to call for description. Its use for hedges
is dealt with in Chapter XXIV., for planting in shade
in Chapter XXV. It should be carefully knife-pruned
towards the end of winter. Thriving in most soils, it
grows freely when established, but in its early years
moves slowly. Nurserymen offer many forms, of which
the following are some of the best : Broad Silver,
Camellisefolia, Donningtonensis, ferox (Hedgehog
Holly) and the sub-forms f. argentea and f. aurea,

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 285

flavescens (yellow berries), Golden King, Golden Queen,
Handsworthiensis, Hodginsii, Madame Briot, pendula
argentea variegata (weeping variegated), scotica,
Silver Queen and Watereriana. While most good
ordinary soil suits Holly it does not care for a poor
dry soil. Planting and shifting are best done during
damp weather in April or August. Holly does well
in town gardens if kept clean, and also at the seaside.
Ilex cornuta, the horned Holly ; and I. dipyrena are
worth growing. See also new plants.

HONEYSUCKLE. — For selections see Chapter
XVIII. These fragrant favourites are species and
varieties of Lonicera. Not only are the forms of Capri-
folium and Periclymenum very sweet, but their fruits
are ornamental. In addition to the popular species
and varieties named in Chapter XVI 1 1., fiava, yellow ;
grata, red ; and Hildebrandiana, buff or pink are good
climbers. Alpigena, red, spring bloomer ; and Xylos-
teum, yellow, early summer, flowers and fruits in
pairs, are two good bush species ; there are several
forms of the latter with fruit of different colours. See
also Section A.

HOP TREE.— See Ptelea.

HORNBEAM. —See Carpinus and Hedges, Chapter
XXIV.

HORSE CHESTNUT.— See ^sculus.

HYDRANGEA.— See Chapters V., IX., XVIII.,
and XXVI., also the chapter on modern shrubs.
The most popular species is hortensis (syn. hortensia),
but it is often represented in gardens by its varieties,
such as Avalanche, Bouquet Rose, Dentelle, Mariesii,

286 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Innocence, Madame Mouilliere, La Lorraine, Otaksa,
rosea, Thomas Hogg, variegata and Veitchii. Mariesii
has very large pink or reddish mauve sterile flowers
and blossoms freely in a small state ; the newer Veitchii
resembles it in form, but is white. Otaksa is pink
and Thos. Hogg white; variegata has green and white
foliage. The species has nominally pale pink flowers,
but it is well known that in certain soils they become
blue, and the change of colour can be induced arti-
ficially by watering with a solution of alum, ioz. to
a gallon of water. Although the species is not per-
fectly hardy it sometimes lives for years outdoors in
mild districts. There is one at Shanklin which has
carried 600 heads of blue flowers. It is, of course, grown
largely in pots. Paniculata grandiflora (syn. p.
hortensis) is a very popular plant with white flowers
in autumn ; it is hardy. Quercifolia is sometimes
grown against walls in mild districts, and the same
may be said of petiolaris, which has Ivy-like leaves
and white flowers in spring. Ordinary soil.

HYMEN ANTHERA.— Only one species is hardy
and that is crassifolia, a New Zealand evergreen with
yellow flowers and white berries. Sandy peat.

HYPERICUM.— (St. John's Wort).— Calycinum
(see Chapter XVI.), is the principal shrubby St.
John's Wort ; but Moserianum, a hybrid between
that and patulum, is a good plant. The former is
about a foot high, the hybrid about three feet. Andro-
saemum, the Tutsan, has dark fruit ; height up to three
feet. All have yellow flowers and bloom in summer.
Reptans is an Alpine trailer. Others offered are

A MODERN HONEYSUCKLE.
/ < nicera Maackii.

I '.irt IV.
Phot! by R. J. Ma

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 287

Ascyron, aureum (a form of Androsaemum), hirsutum,
elatum, Kalmianum and Hookerianum (syn. oblongi-
folium). Ordinary garden soil. Calycinum and
Androsaemum may be planted in shade.

IDESIA. — The only species offered is polycarpa,
a Japanese tree with large heart-shaped leaves on
long crimson stems, yellow perfumed flowers in terminal
racemes and small orange berries in the case of the
female form. Ordinary soil.

ILEX.— See Holly.

ILLICIUM. — Floridanum, an evergreen growing
a few feet high, with red fragrant flowers in May,
is offered as hardy, but it should have a warm wall
and winter protection. Loam with good additions
of peat and sand. Religiosum is a sacred tree in
Japan; there is a variegated form of it.

INCENSE CEDAR. — Libocedrus decurrens.

INDIGOFERA. — Gerardiana (syns. floribunda and
atropurpurea of gardens) is hardy and has pale red
flowers in July. Decora and its white variety are
sometimes offered as hardy, but are better in the
greenhouse. Both are best on walls in the open.
They are deciduous. Good loam, with leaf mould and
sand.

IRISH HEATH. — See Daboecia, Chapters IX. and
XIX.

IRISH IVY. — Hedera Helix canadensis.

IRISH YEW. — Taxus baccata fastigiata.

ITEA. — Virginica is offered in catalogues and may
be grown in sandy peat in a moist position. It grows
up to six feet high and has white flowers in July.

19

288 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

IVY.— See Chapter XVIII.

JAMESIA. — One species is available, namely,
americana, which grows up to six feet high, is deciduous
and has white flowers in spring. Ordinary soil.

JAPANESE CEDAR.— See Cryptomeria.

JAPANESE Q UINCE. — Cydonia or Pyrus japonica.

JASMINE. — The Jasmines are referred to in Chap-
ter XVIII. , where the value of Jasminum nudiflorum
is pointed out. Revolutum and Wallichianum, both
with yellow flowers in summer, are also hardy. The
latter is probably the same as humile, and revolutum
is a form. Other hardy members of the genus are
floridum (syn. subulatum) and fruticans, both with
yellow flowers in summer. Primulinum is a good
Jasmine from Yunnan, but not fully hardy and must
have a warm wall if grown out of doors. It resembles
nudiflorum, indeed, Dr. Henry considers it to be
a variety of that species.

JUDAS TREE.— See Cercis.

JUGLANS. — This is the Walnut genus. J. regia
is the common Walnut and J. nigra the black Walnut.
Laciniata is a cut-leaved and pendula a drooping form
of regia. The other species are not in general cultiva-
tion. Deep loamy soil suits.

JUNIPERUS. — The Junipers are referred to in
Chapter XVII. They are evergreen Conifers of rugged
aspect.

KALMIA. — Angustifolia, glauca and latifolia are
the principal species, indeed, these are the only ones
generally listed. They are useful evergreens, loving
cool, moist peat and, like Rhododendrons, disliking

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 289

lime. Pumila and rubra are forms of angustifolia ;
myrtifolia is a form of latifolia. Glauca, which has
rosy flowers in May and grows up to two feet high,
is a beautiful dwarf bedding shrub, blooming profusely
and pleasing in colour. Latifolia, which has larger
leaves, is also very beautiful.

KERRIA. — The only species is japonica (syn.
Corchorus japonicus) a not particularly impressive
deciduous shrub. The double, flore pleno, is not
only more vigorous, but also more lasting and free,
and one of the most useful dwarf yellow-flowered
deciduous shrubs of spring. It will thrive on a north
wall. Ordinary soil, including poor limestone, which
it prefers to clay. There is also a variegated form
of japonica.

KOLREUTERIA— Paniculata, a deciduous tree
growing up to fifteen feet high, with yellow flowers
in summer, is offered. Good soil and a warm shel-
tered site are needed.

LABURNUM — No spring-flowering tree is better
known than the common yellow deciduous Laburnum
(see Chapter IX.). It is really beautiful when in full
bloom, but unsightly afterwards because of the slow
decay of its inflorescence. This is the Laburnum vul-
gare of botanists, and there are many varieties of
it, such as Alschengeri, Carlieri, grandiflorum,
autumnale, giganteum, monstrosum, m. cristatum,
quercifolium and Vossii. Alpinum, the Scotch
Laburnum, does not differ greatly from vulgare j
biferum, grandifloium, Parksii and Watereri are good
varieties of it. Adami (syn. vulgare purpurascens

2Q0 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

and Cytisus Adami) is a graft hybrid, which has the
interesting peculiarity of producing yellow and purple
flowers separately on the same tree in some cases,
but not in all. This is partly explained by the fact
that the parents were Cytisus purpureus and the
common Laburnum. The latter is used as a stock
for budding and grafting the choicer Brooms.
Ordinary soil.

LARCH (LARIX).—See Chapters XII. and XVII.

LARDIZABALA. — The only species, biternata,
is a climbing shrub with purple flowers in autumn.
It must have a warm wall if grown outdoors. Peat
and loam.

LAUREL.—See Chapters XIII. and XXIV. The
common Laurel is Prunus Laurocerasus ; camelliei-
folia, caucasica, colchica and latifolia are garden
forms of it. The Portugal Laurel is C. lusitanica;
azorica and myrtifolia are forms of it. Kalmia
angustifolia is called the sheep Laurel. The Laurel
is a good town and seaside shrub, and useful for
forming quick shelter.

LAURUS. — Nobilis is the evergreen Sweet Bay;
angustifolia and salicifolia are garden varieties of it.
It has yellow flowers in spiing, followed by purple
berries. In good soil and an open situation it may
grow to thirty feet high. It makes a good lawn tree,
especially when trained as a neat pyramid. Good
loam.

LAURUSTINUS (or LAURESTINUS).—$ee
Chapters IX. and XVI. Viburnum Tinus is one of
the most useful of cheap evergreens, growing almost

A MODERN CHINESE SHRUB

Stranvaesia undulata.

For description see Part IV

Photo by R. A. Xlalby.

TWO USEFUL ROCK GARDEN SHRUBS.
Upper Thuja dolabrata nana.
Lower — Picea excelsa Remonth.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 291

anywhere, doing well on poor limestone soil, neat and
compact in habit, always bright, and flowering in
winter. Very little pruning is required.

LAVENDER. — This fragrant evergreen is Lavan-
dula vera spica of some botanists ; alba is a white
garden variety. Everybody knows lavender, which
is extensively grown for making perfume, and much
used by housewives as a preservative of linen. The
shrub will grow in almost any soil, and bear frequent
shifting. It thrives on poor limestone. Clumps of
lavender should be grown in every garden. A line
beside a walk will scent the air delightfully for many
weeks.

LEAD PLANT.— See Amorpha.

LEATHERWOOD.—See Dirca.

LEDUM. — Handsome evergreens, the best known
species of which is latifolium, which grows about three
feet high and has white flowers in April ; angusti-
folium is a narrow-leaved variety of it. Palustre,
white, May, is also offered. They are peat-lovers.

LEIOPHYLLUM.—NesiT the Ledums; L. buxi-
folium is the same as Ledum buxifolium ; it grows
about a foot high and has white flowers in May ;
prostratum is a garden form. Peat.

LESPEDEZA . — Bicolor, a deciduous shrub growing
about three feet high, with purple and rose flowers
in September, is offered. It should be grown on a
warm border or a wall. Loam and peat.

LE UCOTHOE. — Axillaris, Catesbaei and Davisiae
are offered ; the two first are now classed with the
Andromedas by botanists. They are all peat-lovers.

292 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

LEYCESTERIA. — The only species offered is
formosa, a good deciduous shrub growing up to eight
feet high, with purple and white flowers in summer,
followed by fruit. It does well at the seaside. Varie-
gata is a form of it. Ordinary soil.

LIBOCEDRUS.—See Conifers, Chapter XVII. De-
currens is the Incense Cedar and makes a good lawn
tree ; there is a golden-variegated form. Chilensis,
Doniana and macrolepis are also offered. The last is
a good Chinese species, but not hardy enough for
ordinary culture without protection. These Conifers
like a rich deep soil.

LIGU STRUM.— This is the Privet genus; see
Chapters XVI. and XXIV. Ovalifolium is the popular
evergreen Privet so much used for hedges ; elegant -
issimum is a garden form. Other species offered are
Ibota ; japonicum and its variety macrophyllum •
lucidum and its forms aureo-variegatum and tricolor
(very beautiful) ; coriaceum (syn. lucidum coriaceum),
curled leaves ; Ouihoui ; sinense and its form flori-
bundum ; and vulgare, the common Privet. The
Golden Privet is a form of ovalifolium. One or two
of the best garden forms are procurable as standards.
Ordinary soil, including poor limestone. The Privets
do well in town gardens. See Section A for modern
species.

LILAC. — See Syringa, also Section A, and Chapters
IX. and XXVI. The varieties named in the latter are
all suitable for the garden.

LIME. — One of the most popular of deciduous town
trees. It belongs to the genus Tilia, europaea (syn.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 293

vulgaris) being the common Lime or Linden ; this tree,
with its yellow, sickly-sweet flowers beloved of bees,
is very familiar ; there is a variegated form. T. alba
is the Silver or White Lime, T. americana the American
White Wood or Basswood, T. petiolaris the Crimean
Lime. Other species met with are dasystyla (syn.
enchlora) and platyphyllos ; there are several varieties
of the latter, such as asplenifolia (syn. laciniata),
rubra, pendula and pyramidalis. Good loamy soil.

LINDERA. — Deciduous shrubs, the best known
member of which is Benzoin (syn. Laurus Benzoin),
which grows up to fifteen feet high and has yellow
flowers in spring. Praecox, sericea and triloba are
also offered. Loam.

LIQUID AMBAR. — Of the several species, styraci-
flua is the only one generally met with, a small decidu-
ous tree growing up to thirty or forty feet high and
remarkable for its rich autumn colour j moreover,
it is fragrant. Loam.

LIRIODENDRON.— Tulipifera is the beautiful Tulip
tree, with large yellow and green flowers in summer ;
there are several forms, of which aurea is the best
known. The Tulip tree is worth a good position ;
even though it does not flower in a young state it is
always handsome. Deep loamy soil.

LOCUST TREE. —See Robinia.

LONICERA.—See Honeysuckle.

LOQUAT. — See Eriobotrya.

LOROPETALUM.— -The only species is chinense,
a beautiful deciduous shrub growing up to eight or
ten feet high in good loamy soil, and in a sheltered

294 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

spot ; and with white flowers in autumn. It is often
grown in pots.

LUPINUS. — The tree Lupine, L. arboreus, is an
evergreen shrub, but not quite hardy ; it is, however,
easily raised from seed. There are several forms,
including a good yellow and a white (Snow Queen).
The true Lupine grows up to six feet high in deep,
well-manured soil. The flowers are very sweet.

LYCIUM (BOX THORN).— Deciduous shrubs, of
which barbarum, a climber with purple and yellow
flowers in summer ; and europseum, an erect spiny
shrub with violet flowers in August, are most often
met with ; chinense is near the latter and there is a
variegated form. They are generally grown on walls,
and do well near the sea. Ordinary soil.

MACLURA. — The only species, aurantiaca, is the
Osage Orange, a deciduous tree growing up to twent)-
feet high, with yellow flowers in summer followed by
golden fruit. Sandy loam.

MAGNOLIA. — One of the most important genera
of hardy shrubs, comprising both evergreen and
deciduous species, all distinguished by large and beau-
tiful flowers. See Chapters XVI., XVIII. and XIX.
The best known evergreen is the large-leaved grandi-
flora, which is often seen on house walls. TheExmouth
variety is very good, and there is also a form called
ferruginea. Delavayi is a modern evergreen species
with large glaucous evergreen foliage from Southern
China. See section on modern shrubs. Of the decidu-
ous species, conspicua, the Yulan, which grows up
to twenty feet high and has large pure white flowers

MAGNOLIA LENNEI.
Colour photo by R. A. Malby.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 295

in advance of the leaves in spring ; Fraseri, yellow,
spring, a shy bloomer ; hypoleuca, cream, red anthers,
sweet, spring ; Lennei, purplish red, spring, a nybrid,
flowers in advance of the leaves ; macrophylla, white,
summer ; parviflora, cream, late spring ; Soulangeana,
rose, spring, flowers in advance of the leaves ; stellata
(syn. Halleana), white, spring, flowers in advance of
the leaves, there is a variety rosea ; and Watsoni,
cream, sweet, spring, not hardy, are the most impor-
tant. Acuminata, yellow, early summer; glauca,
white, early summer ; Kobus, purple and white,
spring ; and tripetala, white, spring, are all beautiful.
Alba superba is a form of conspicua, and Soulangeana
is also sometimes classed as a variety of the species.
Stellata flowers profusely in a young state and is
exquisitely beautiful. Others are Campbelli, rustica
rubra, salicifolia, cordata, glauca and pumila. Rich,
loamy soil is best. Very little pruning is required.
There should be as little root disturbance as possible.

MAHONIA.—See Berberis and Chapter IX. M.
aqui folia is Berberis aquifolium. See Chapter XXV.

MAIDENHAIR TREE.— See Ginkgo.

MAPLE.— See Acer and Chapter XV.

MELIOSMA MYRIANTHA.—A rare Japanese
shrub, with large oval toothed leaves and white flowers.

MENISPERMUM. — A small genus of deciduous
climbers, of which canadense, with shield-shaped
leaves and yellow flowers in summer, is alone met with to
any extent. It is a good subject for a shady wall. Loam.

MENZIESIA.— Polifolia is the same as Daboecia
polifolia. See Chapters IX. and XIX. Empetriformis

296 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

is the same as Bryanthus empetriformis. See Bry-
anthus. M. globularis has pink flowers in May, height
three to five feet. Moist peat.

MOCK ORANGE. —See Chapter IX. and Phila-
delphus.

MORUS. — Nigra is the common Mulberry, a hand-
some deciduous tree with greenish flowers in early
summer, followed by dark red fruit which cannot be
relied on to ripen unless the tree is grown on a wall.
Alba, the white Mulberry, is the species grown for
feeding silkworms ; there is a variety of it called
pendula, in addition to several others. The Mulberry
is an interesting tree. There are famous examples in
English gardens at Syon House, Isleworth ; and the
Chapter Garden at Canterbury. People who see them
have sometimes an impulse to plant Mulberries, but
as a matter of fact few are put in and the tree is
declining.

MOUNTAIN ASH.—Vyras Aucuparia, a graceful
small deciduous tree with brilliant berries. Ordinary
soil.

MUEHLENBECKIA. — Complexa and varians are
offered and are suitable for growing on walls, but they
are of little importance. Sandv loam.

MULBERRY.— See Morus.

MYRIC ARIA. —See Tamarix.

MY RICA. — The species cerifera is the Candleberry
Myrtle, so called because candles were once made
from the berries ; and Gale is the Sweet Gale or Bog
Myrtle, which is pleasantly scented and does well at
the waterside. Cerifera grows up to twenty feet

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 297

high, Gale about four feet ; it is a twiggy, deciduous
shrub with brownish inconspicuous flowers. Moist
peat.

MYRTUS (MYRTLE).— See Chapter XVIII. There
are several species, but the Myrtles grown in gardens
are nearly all varieties of communis, which has white
flowers in July ; and there are many of them, including
narrow-leaved (angustifolia), slender-leaved (tenuifolia),
orange-leaved, Thyme-leaved, Rosemary-leaved and
variegated. The Myrtles are generally grown for their
fragrant evergreen foliage. They are best grown
against walls and protected in winter. Loam and
leaf mould.

NANDINA. — The only species, domestica, is not
fullv hardy, and can only be grown out of doors in
mild districts. It is an evergreen, with fern-like
foliage, white flowers and rosy fruits. It is known as
the Heavenly Bamboo in Japan. Loam and peat, an
open but sheltered site and shade from mid-day sun
favour it.

NEGUNDO. — See Acers. Several are offered in
catalogues under the name of Negundo, notably
calif ornicum aureum and fraxinifolium(syn. aceroides)
and its varieties, such as white variegated and yellow
variegated.

NEILLIA. — These are now referred to Spiraeas,
but opulifolia, height up to eight feet, a deciduous
shrub with white flowers in June, and its golden-
leaved form lutea, are often grown under the original
name. Loam.

NETTLE TREE.— See Celtis.

2g8 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

NEVIUSIA. — The one species, alabamensis, is a
deciduous North American shrub growing up to six
feet high and with white flowers in May. Ordinary
soil.

NORWAY MAPLE. —See Acer.

NORWA Y SPR UCE.— Picea or Abies excelsa. See
Chapter XVII.

NOTOSPARTIUM.— Australis and Carmichaeliae
are offered, the latter most commonly ; it is a Broom-
like New Zealand evergreen growing up to twenty
feet high, with pink flowers in early summer. Loam
and peat.

NUTTALLIA . — The only species generally met with
is cerasiformis, a deciduous shrub growing up to ten
feet high, with white flowers in spring. It should be
grown in a sheltered place. Loam.

OAK. — This grand old tree belongs to the genus
Quercus, and pedunculata is generally given as the
species ; it is, however, a form of Robur with stalked
cups ; there are several sub-varieties, such as
Concordia, fastigiata (pyramidal), silver variegated,
pectinata, asplenifolia, purpurascens, pendula, leuco-
carpa (yellow) and heterophylla. The stalkless form
of Robur is called sessiliflora. These are the giant
Oaks of the great parks. Cerris, the Turkey Oak,
is a somewhat smaller but still large tree ; rubra is
the Red Oak ; there is a beautiful variety called aurea.
There is a silver-variegated form of Cerris among
several others. Lucombe's Oak is a sub-evergreen.
Other species of medium size are coccinea, the North
American Scarlet Oak, which has beautiful colour in

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AX UNCOMMON STAR-BUSH.

Olearia macrosepala.

For Olearias see Part IV.

Photo by R. A. Malby.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 299

autumn (Waterer's variety, or Knap Hill Scarlet is
good) ; conferta (syn. pannonica) the Hungarian Oak,
a handsome, deeply-lobed species of very quick
growth ; palustris, the Pin or Marsh Oak, another
North American species with fine colour in the fall ;
macrocarpa, the Burr Oak ; Mirbeckii (syn. Zang)
a very handsome species ; and heterophylla, narrow-
leaved. The common evergreen Oak (also known
as Holm Oak and Holly Oak) is Q. Ilex, a useful hardy
but rather dull tree. There are, however, several other
good evergreen species, such as acuta and serrata,
both small species from Japan ; cuspidata and its
variegated form ; and glabra. Other species are
Phellos, the Willow Oak, with long, narrow leaves ;
Suber, the Cork Oak, which gives the commercial cork ;
and Prinus, the Chestnut Oak. The Evergreen and
Turkey Oaks are good seaside trees and the former
thrives in towns. Deep loamy soil.

OLE A (OLIVE). — The species europsea is the wild
Olive, which is cultivated for its oil. It is a shrub
growing up to six feet high, with white flowers in July.
In northern climes it should have a warm, sheltered
place. Fragrans is the same as Osmanthus fragrans.
Peat and loam.

OLE ARIA. — Handsome evergreens, of which the
best known are stellulata (syn. Eurybia Gunniana),
height up to four feet, white flowers in late spring or
early summer, a very beautiful but not hardy shrub
(Olearia Gunnii or Gunniana of gardens is the same) ;
and Haastii, three to four feet, white, veiy free, late
summer, the hardiest, if cut by frost breaks up again

300 GARDEN SHRUBS AND TREES

rapidly. Others are angustifolia, white, sweet ;
argophylla, white, woolly, musk-scented leaves ;
dentata, white, yellow centre, not hardy ; Forsteri,
white, summer, not quite hardy ; insignis, white, yellow
centre, not hardy ; macrodonta, silvery leaves, white
fragrant flowers ; nearly hardy ; nummularisefolia,
cream flowers and thick stemless leaves, nearly hardy ;
and Chathamica which was exhibited by a Cornish
amateur, the Rev. A. T. Boscawen, in London in 1913,
when it received a Botanical Certificate from the
Royal Horticultural Society ; the leaves are lanceolate,
dull green, downy below ; the flowers single, soft
lilac, about two inches across. The less hardy Olearias
may be grown on wall borders. Ordinary soil.

ONONIS. — Of the several shrubs in this genus,
fruticosa, growing up to two feet high, with purple
flowers in summer, is the best known ; it is deciduous,
and suitable for the rock garden. Rotundifolia, a
dwarf shrub with rose flowers in summer, is also
met with. Ordinary soil.

OSAGE ORANGE.— See Madura.

OSMANTHUS. — Useful evergreens, thriving in
town and seaside gardens and good for winter bedding.
The most important is ilicifolius, which is generally
offered as a species, although really a variety of
Aquifolium ; it is a shrub growing up to four feet
high, with dark, Holly-like leaves and white flowers
in August. There are silver- variegated and golden
variegated forms of ilicifolius, also a dark, purpureus.
My rtif olius has no spines . The species f ragrans is the same
as Olea f ragrans. The Osmanthuses do best in sandy loam .

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 301

OSTEOMELES. — Anthyllidifolia is an evergreen
growing up to three feet high, with white flowers in
summer, but it is only safe out of doors in mild
districts. Loam.

OTHERA. — Japonica is the same as Ilex integra,
an evergreen with white flowers in summer.

OXYCOCCUS. — Macrocarpus, a creeping shrub with
pink flowers in May, followed by fruits, is the American
Cranberry. Palustris (syn. vulgaris) is the common
Cranberry. Moist peat.

OXYDENDRON. — Arboreum, a tree growing up
to thirty feet high, with white flowers in summer, is
the same as Andromeda arborea. Moist peat.

OZOTHAMNUS.— Rosmarinifolius is a half-hardy
evergreen with yellow flowers. Loam and peat. It
is now united to Helichrysum by botanists.

PMONIA (PMONY).— Moutan, the Tree Paeony,
is a deciduous shrub, and the finest of the modern
varieties make beautiful groups in beds or at the
front of shrubberies. The flowers are of enormous size
and brilliant in colour. The plants are often forced
in pots. Any deep, rich soil suits. Basal shoots of
all kinds should be removed as they appear. Although
the plants are hardy the buds are sometimes cut
by severe late frost and protection should be given in
hard weather. Better still, plant in a sheltered place
where the sun will not strike on them before n a.m.,
because then frost may be harmless. The folio w-
ing may be grown : single : Etna, fiery red ; Illinois,
carmine ; Missouri, pink ; Pennsylvania, salmon ;
Wisconsin, pink, violet stripe ; double : De Bugny,

302 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

white, violet flakes ; Jeanne d'Arc, salmon ; Lactea,
cream ; La Ville de St. Denis, white, violet ground ;
Louise Mouchelet, salmon-pink ; Madame Stuart Low,
salmon-red ; Queen Elizabeth, rosy red ; Archduc
Ludovic, violet ; and Souvenir de Ducher, violet red.
A fine hybrid, named La Lorraine, with soft vellow
flowers, has been raised by crossing the yellow Tree
Paeony, P. lutea, with a variety of P. moutan. P. lutea
itself is a fine plant with clear yellow flowers. It was
found in Yunnan and first flowered in Europe in 1891.
It should have a warm sheltered place and rich friable
loamy soil. P. Veitchii, purplish red, several blooms
on each stem, is also interesting.

PALIURUS.— Australis (syn. aculeatus), "Christ's
Thorn," is a deciduous shrub growing up to six feet
high, with spiny stipules and clusters of yellow flowers
in June. It is reputed to be the plant from which the
crown of thorns was made. Ordinary soil.

PAMPAS GRASS.—See Gynerium.

PARROTIA. — Persica (syn. Hamamelis persica)
a deciduous shrub, growing up to fifteen feet high,
with scarlet flowers in summer, is worth growing for
the brilliant colour of its foliage in autumn. Jacque-
montana, yellow, white bracts, is also offered.

PASSIFLORA (PASSION FLOWER).— See
Chapter XVIII. Peat and loam.

PA ULOWNIA. — Imperialis, a handsome small tree,
makes a fine " sub-tropical " bed when grown in deep,
rich soil, cut down in spring, and the resulting basal
shoots thinned to one, for it may grow ten feet high
and produce splendid foliage.

ONE OF THE NEWER MEADOWSWEETS.

Spiraa Henryi.

For description see Part IV.

Photo by R. A. Malby.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 303

P AVI A. —See iEsculus.

PEACH. — See Chapter XXVI. for notes on forcing
Peaches for early bloom. See also Chapters V. and
VI. and Prunus.

PEAR. — See Chapter XXVI. for forcing for early
bloom, also Pyrus.

PENTSTEMON. — This semi-shrubby genus has
been dealt with in the companion volumes: Alpine
Flowers and Rock Gardens, and Hardy Perennials
and Herbaceous Borders.

PERIPLOCA.—See Chapter XVIII. P. graeca
thrives in ordinary soil.

PERIWINKLE.— See Chapters XVI. and XXV.

PERNETTYA.—See Chapters XV. and XIX.
The forms of mucronata are charming little berried
evergreens, excellent for winter decoration. The
varietal names coccinea, carnea, lilacina and nigra
refer to the colours of the berries. Peat and loam.

PEROWSKIA. — Atriplicifolia is a handsome de-
ciduous shrub, having white woolly leaves and long
spikes of blue flowers in autumn.

PERSIMMON.— See Diospyros.

PHILADELPHUS {MOCK ORANGE).— See
Chapter IX. This is one of the best of hardy deciduous
shrubs, owing to its vigour, profuse blooming and
adaptability to all kinds of soil. The common Mock
Orange, coronarius and its forms, are very sweet ;
the larger grandiflorus is not so fragrant ; the latter
is, however, a splendid species for the border, owing
to its great size and profusion. There are many forms
of coronarius, including gold-variegated and silver-

20

304 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

variegated, double, and dwarf (nanus). Great interest
is taken in the modern hybrids, of which Lemoinei is
typical ; under this are grouped such forms as
Fantaisie, white fimbriated flowers, faint tint of rose
in the centre, sweet ; Purpureo-maculatus, white,
spotted purple, sweet, dwarf ; Virginal white ; Rosace,
cream, double, sweet ; Avalanche, large, white, sweet ;
Pavilion Blanc, white, clustered ; Boule d' Argent,
white, double, sweet ; Candelabre, white, dwarf, sweet ;
Bouquet Blanc, white; and Voie Lactee, white.
Microphyllus is a good species for the rockery and very
sweet. Ordinary soil , including poor limestone.

PHILESIA. — Buxifolia is a beautiful evergreen,
growing up to four feet high, with red flowers in early
summer resembling the Lapageria. It is not fully
hardy and should have a sheltered place. Peat.

PHILLYRMA. — Useful evergreens, of which
angustifolia, height up to ten feet, white flowers in
May ; latifolia, taller, white, May ; and media, fifteen
feet, white, May, are the principal species. Ilicifolia
and rotundifolia are forms of latifolia. Decora (syn.
Vilmoriniana) is also grown. Ordinary soil. The
Phillyraeas do well in towns and at the seaside.

PHLOMIS. — A genus of herbaceous plants and
shrubs. The best of the latter is fruticosa, the Jeru-
salem Sage, an evergreen growing about a yard high,
with yellow flowers in June. Ferruginea is also a
yellow-leaved shrub. Ordinary soil.

PHOTINIA. — Several of this genus are evergreens,
including arbutifolia, the Californian May bush ;
height up to fifteen feet, white flowers in summer ;

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 305

serrulata (syn. glabra), white, the Chinese Hawthorn;
Benthamiana and ovata. Villosa (syn. variabilis)
is deciduous. Japonica (syn. Mespilus japonica) is
now called Eriobotrya japonica ; this is the Japan
Medlar or Loquat. Sandy loam.

PHYLLOSTACHYS.—See Bamboos.

PICE A.— See Chapter XVII.

PIERIS. — A genus closely allied to Andromeda
and thriving under the same conditions. P. floribunda
and A. floribunda are the same (syn. Zenobia flori-
bunda.) P. formosa is a good white-flowered ever-
green, but needs a sheltered place. P. japonica has
white flowers in drooping clusters. Peat.

PINE, PINUS.—See Conifers, Chapter XVII.,
also Chapters V. and XIV.

PIPTANTHUS. — Nepalensis (syns. Baptisia ne-
palensis and Thermopsis laburnifolia) the Evergreen
Laburnum, is a beautiful wall shrub, with yellow
flowers in spring ; the variety aureus has yellowish
bark. Tomentosus only differs from nepalensis in
being hairy. Sandy loam.

PITTOSPORUM.— This evergreen genus is not
hardy, but several species, notably Buchanani, Colensoi,
crassifolium, eugenioides and its form variegata,
Tobira and undulatum may be grown outside in mild
districts. Crassifolium, height up to six feet, chocolate
flowers in spring ; and Tobira, up to twelve feet, white,
spring, very sweet, are two of the best. Tenuifolium
makes a splendid bush at Aldenham House, near
London, on clay soil. The small flowers are almost
black.

306 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

PLAGIANTHUS. — Lyallii is an attractive shrub,
with white drooping flowers in the axils of the leaves,
but it came from New Zealand and is not hardy, and
can only be grown outdoors in northern climes in
sheltered places.

PLAN ERA. —See Zelkova.

PLANE, PLATANUS.—We have seen in Chapter
XX. that the Plane is one of the best of town trees.
The London Plane is Platanus acerifolia, which has
Maple-like leaves and greenish flowers in spring.
Suttnerii is a strong variety with deeply cut marbled
leaves. Occidentalis, the Western Plane, has five-
angled leaves ; there is a variegated form. Orient alis
is the Eastern or Common Plane ; there are deeply
cut and variegated-leaved forms. Ordinary soil if
not dry.

PLUM, PURPLE-LEAVED.— Prunus Pissardii.

PODOCARPUS. — Evergreen Conifers, imperfectly
hardy, and therefore requiring sheltered places. The
principal species are alpina, chilina, macrophylla,
nubigena and Totara. The first only grows up to about
twelve feet high and is fairly hardy. The others are
much larger. Loam.

POISON IVY.— See Rhus.

POISON OAK.— See Rhus.

POLY GALA. — Most of these are not hardy, but
Chamabuxus, a low sub-shrub with creamy flowers
in summer, may be grown outside ; there is a purple-
leaved form called purpurea. Peat.

POLYGONUM. — Most of this genus are hardy
herbaceous perennials, but Baldschuanicum (see

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 307

Chapter XVIII.) multiflorum and molle are sub-
shrubby. The two first named are good ramblers,
particularly Baldshuanicum. Ordinary soil.

POMEGRANATE. —See Punica.

POPULUS (POPLAR).— See Chapters VIII. and
IX. P. alba (Abele) is the white Poplar ; P. nigra, the
black Poplar j P. nigra pyramidalis, the Lombardy
Poplar ; P. tremula, the Aspen ; P. balsamifera, the
Balsam Poplar; P. canescens, the Grey Poplar; P. del-
toides (syns. canadensis, cordata and monilifera)
the Necklace Poplar. They are hardy, cheap and useful
trees, thriving in most soils ; alba and tremula like a
deep moist soil ; there is a form of tremula called
purpurea, the young growth of which is purple.

PORTUGAL LAUREL.— See Laurel.

POTENTILLA.— Most of the Cinquefoils are herb-
aceous, but fruticosa, height up to eight feet, with
yellow flowers in summer, is a deciduous shrub, and
so is the hybrid Friedrichsenii, which has pale yellow
flowers and is rather dwarf er than fruticosa. Glabra
is a form of the latter. Ordinary soil. There are
several Alpine species, suitable for the rock garden.

PRINOS. — Glaber is the same as Ilex glabra.
Ordinary soil.

PRIVET.— See Ligustrum, and Chapters XIV.
and XXIV.

PRUMNOPITYS.—A small genus of Conifers, of
which the best known is elegans (syns. Stachycarpus
andina and Podocarpus andina), the Plum Fir. Spicata,
the Black Pine, is less hardy. They are trees growing
up to fifty feet high in deep loamy soil.

3o8 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

PRUNUS. — The many references to this great genus
in preceding chapters will have conveyed an idea of
its importance. It includes the Almond, the Cherry,
the Apricot, the Plum and the Laurel. It provides
many varieties of the utmost value for forcing. The
following are the most important for ornamental
purposes : Almond section (Amygdalus) : Communis is
the common pink ; flore pleno, double red, and macro-
carpa, large pink, are both varieties of it. C. amara
is the bitter Almond and C. dulcis the sweet Almond.
Davidiana is pale rose ; it has a white form, alba.
Nana is the dwarf Almond. Incanaisthe hoary Almond.
Orientalis is the silver Almond. Apricot section :
Mume is the Japanese Apricot, dwarf, with white,
scented flowers in March ; there are double pink and
double white forms and various singles. Triloba is
pale rose ; it has a double form, flore pleno.
Tomentosa is white. Bird Cherry section : Padus,
white, spring ; there is a double form, flore pleno, and
also a splendid single called Albertii, with long white
spikes like small Lilacs. Mahaleb, white, fragrant ;
there are yellow-fruited and drooping forms. Cherry
section : (Cerasus). Avium is the wild Cherry or Gean,
white ; there is a double form, flore pleno ; and a
large-leaved, decumana. Cerasus, the common Cherry ;
there is a splendid double white form of this called
Rhexii flore pleno. Japonica (syn. sinensis) the
Japanese Cherry, white ; does best when pruned hard
after flowering ; there are double white and double
rose forms. Pseudo-cerasus, the Bastard Cherry ;
there is a splendid double pink form of this called

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 309

James H. Veitch and a beautiful blush, larger and
even freer than the preceding, named Shirofugen.
Serrulata, white. Pumila, dwarf, white. Peach sec-
tion : Persica, rose, the Peach ; there is a good double
red form of this called Clara Mayer ; there are also
double rose, double white and purple-leaved forms.
Plum section : Cerasifera, the Myrobalan or Cherry
Plum ; the dark-leaved form of this named atro-
purpurea is the same as Prunus Pissardii ; there is
a beautiful sub-form called Hessei, the narrow leaves
of which vary a good deal in colour ; and also a sub-
form named Moseri flore pleno, with double rose
flowers. Spinosa, the Sloe ; there is a double white
form and also a dark-leaved, purpurea. For forcing
the foregoing, see Chapter XXVI. Laurel section :
Laurocerasus, the common Laurel ; and Lusitanica, the
Portugal Laurel (see Laurels). For other references
to the genus Prunus see the various chapters. A
distinct Prunus with glaucous grey leaves and cherry-
like fruit is Besseyi.

PSE UDOLARIX.—Kxmpieri (syn. Larix Kaemp-
feri) is the Japanese Golden Larch.

PSEUDOSTUGA. — The only species of any im-
portance is P. Douglasi (syn. Abies Douglasi). See
Chapters V., XIV. and XVII. (Conifers). There are
several garden forms of this beautiful tree, including
glaucous and drooping. It does not care for a cold,
exposed site.

PTELEA . — Trifoliata is the Hop Tree, a deciduous
tree growing up to eight feet high, with yellow
flowers in summer ; there is a form called aurea,

310 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

the new spring foliage of which is tinted yellow.
Ordinary soil.

PTEROCARYA. — Deciduous trees, of which cau-
casica (syn. fraxinifolia) growing up to thirty feet high,
with greenish flowers in May ; and stenoptera (syn.
laevigata) are met with. Loam.

PTEROSTYRAX.— See Halesia.

PUNIC A. — Granatum is the Pomegranate, a decid-
uous tree growing up to thirty feet high, with red
flowers in summer, followed by large orange-like fruits.
It does not bear in northern climes, and may not even
bloom unless grown on a south wall. There is a double
form. Loam and leaf mould.

PYRACANTHA.— See Crataegus.

PYRUS. — This great genus, which includes the
Apple, the Pear, the Quince, the Service and the
Mountain Ash, has been referred to in several pre-
ceding chapters. P. Aria is the White Beam Tree ;
there is a golden form, chrysophylla ; P. baccata is
the Crab (see Crab) ; P. Aucuparia is the Mountain
Ash ; P. communis is the Pear ; P. Cydonia is the
Quince ; P. japonica (syn. Cydonia japonica) is the
Japanese Quince ; P. Malus is the Apple j P. pruni-
folia is the Siberian Crab (see also baccata) ; P.
Sorbus is the true Service Tree ; and P. Termin-
alis is the wild Service Tree. For references to
P. floribunda, P. Scheideckeri and P. spectabilis
see Chapters IX. and XXVI. ; for Crabs see Chapters
IX. and XV. ; for the Mountain Ash see Chapter
IX. ; for Japonica, see Cydonia and Chapter XVIII.
With respect to other Pyruses, the following are good

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 311

garden trees : coronaria, the Canadian Crab and its
double pink form flore pleno, which is both beautiful
and sweet ; Maulei, golden fruit, good for a low wall
(see also Cydonia) ; sinensis, white flowers in spring ;
salicifolia, white, narrow lanceolate leaves, and its
form pendula'; and vestita, white, pyramidal habit.

QUERCUS.—See Oak.

QUICK.— See Crataegus and Chapter XXIV.

QUINCE. — See Pyrus and Cydonia; also Chapter
XVIII.

RAPHIOLEPIS. — The best known is japonica,
an evergreen with white fragrant flowers in spring, best
grown on a wall and protected with a mat in severe
weather. Loam and peat.

RETINOSPORA.— Handsome small Conifers, which
botanists now class with Cupressus, but which are grown
in gardens and nurseries under the name Retinospora.
See Chapter XVII.

RHAMNUS (BUCKTHORN).— These include both
evergreen and deciduous species. The most important
of the former is Alaternus, a tree growing up to twenty
feet high, with green flowers in spring; there are narrow,
broad-leaved and silver- variegated forms. The
narrow-leaved (angustifolia, syn. Perrieri) is the best.
Californicus is also evergreen and grows up to twelve
feet high. The most important of the deciduous
species is Frangula, the Black Dogwood, which grows up
to ten feet high and has greenish-white flowers followed
by black fruit ; there are narrow-leaved and golden
variegated forms ; it does well by water. Alpinus is
also deciduous and has black fruits. Ordinary soil.

312 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

RHODODENDRON.

Botanists, pointing to the trifling differences between
Azaleas and Rhododendrons, amalgamate them. Even
if we consider them as separate genera the Rhododen-
dron is supreme, with the Azalea it is unchallengable.
There are, however, shrub-lovers who have to dispense
with Rhododendrons in their gardens, owing to the
soil containing lime. The Azalea and Rhododendron
belong to the botanical order Ericacaee, the members
of which are lovers of peat. While, however, they
enjoy this earth, it need not be assumed that they
will not thrive in other soils. Many authorities on
these shrubs would not use peat exclusively if they
were making special beds, although they would gladly
avail themselves of a natural peaty soil for these and
other of the beautiful and fascinating Ericacaee if
circumstances took them into a district where it pre-
vailed. When making special beds they would use a
good deal of fibrous loam in addition to peat ; for it
has been proved that this soil suits Rhododendrons if
it is free from lime. From the garden point of view it
is convenient to keep Azaleas and Rhododendrons
separate, because, in the main, they serve distinct
purposes; moreover, they are separate in most of the
catalogues. The Azaleas of the mollis and sinensis
sections, and their hybrids, are deciduous, and of low
or medium growth. The most important Rhododen-
drons are evergreen, and are of almost tree-like habit
in suitable soil. There are, of course, deciduous
Rhododendrons, but the broad distinction will serve.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 313

The species of Azaleas and Rhododendrons are, as a
rule, of little interest to amateurs, although of great
interest to botanists. The long lists of named sorts
in the catalogues — the Anthony Kosters and Pink
Pearls, the Glory of Boskoops and John Waterers, of
nurserymen — are garden forms of hybrid origin. The
garden-lover does not know whence they came, and
it would be a difficult task to trace the parentage of the
best modern varieties. Few species of Azalea are met
with in gardens, and for all practical purposes they can
be dismissed. One can hardly go so far with Rhodo-
dendrons. We have already seen that ferrugineum
and hirsutum, the Alpine Roses, are grown in rock
gardens. Racemosum is used for the same purpose,
as well as for winter-blooming in pots. Ponticum
is planted extensively in woods. Campylocarpum,
catawbiense and caucasicum are sometimes met with.
But in nine gardens out of ten it is the hybrid offspring
of some of these and other species which are grown.
The principal species which have been used as parents
for Rhododendrons are ponticum, catawbiense, ar-
boreum, maximum, caucasicum and purpureum. With
respect to Azaleas, what are known as Ghent Azaleas
sprang from the species pontica (not Rhododendron
ponticum, but the plant known to botanists as Rhodo-
dendron flavum, a yellow-flowered deciduous shrub, a
native of the Caucasus), calendulaceum (occidentale),
nudiflorum and viscosum, all hardy North American
species. Although the Ghent Azaleas are hardy they
are mostly used for pot culture and are grown in enor-
mous quantities by Belgian florists for winter bloom

314 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

under glass. Azalea mollis (Rhododendron sinense
of botanists) is known to have been crossed with
pontica, and has probably been crossed with others.
Several hybrid sections are offered by nurserymen
and the exact parentage is doubtful. Coming to the
purely gardening aspect of the subject, we have seen
in previous chapters that Rhododendrons and Azaleas
are magnificent shrubs for lawn beds, and also for large
borders. The coloured plates show with what remark-
able effect they can be grouped, forming brilliant
colour masses. We have also considered propagation
and other cultural matters. It may be well to make
clear that when peat is referred to the peat of a stag-
nant bog is not meant, but sweet sandy peat. Rho-
dodendrons love cool but not waterlogged spots. A
humid climate suits them better than a dry one, witness
the grand plants in the famous Cornish gardens. But
Rhododendrons are at home in Surrey, particularly
on the upland sandy peats around Bagshot and Woking.
When sites are prepared for them the imported soil
should be put in mounds above the ground level, not
in pits made by carting the native soil away. In the
latter case lime, if present, would eventually work its
way into the bed some time in the future. If the
soil is light and sandy leaf mould may be added with
advantage. Rhododendrons have great tenacity of
life, and when suited by soil and climate are the easiest
of plants to grow. Lime has a singular toxic effect
on them the exact nature of which is not known.
Cunningham's White, will, however, thrive on lime-
stone. The following are splendid hardy Rhododendrons

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 315

in the various colours : Bicolor : Sappho, Mrs.
A. Walter, Francis B. Hayes and Lady C. Walsh.
Blush or pale pink : Pink Pearl, Gomer Waterer and
Mrs. E. C. Stirling. Deep pink and rose : Lady C.
Mitford, Kate Waterer, Strategist and Lord Palmer-
ston. Red : Cynthia, John Waterer, John Walter,
Doncaster. Purple or plum : Baron Schroder, Melton
and Old Port. White : The Queen, Mrs. J. Clutton
and Memoir. Where only one of each colour is
required the first named may be chosen. The following
newer varieties are beautiful, but it may be expected
that the cost of them will be higher j Alice, a giant of
deeper colour than Pink Pearl ; Princess Juliana,
blush ; Gill's Goliath, blush with deeper pink edge ;
and Cornubia (Thomsoni -fShilsoni) bell-shape, dense
blood red ; some good hardy deciduous Azaleas are
described in Chapters IX. and XXVI. The flower-
heads of Rhododendrons should be pinched off short
when they fade, using finger and thumb carefully
so that the growing bud at the base is not broken off.
This removal of fading flowers prevents seed pods
forming and the plants bloom the better for it the
following year. We have often been struck with the
way in which old Rhododendrons that were getting
bare below have broken up green, fresh and strong
when headed at midwinter to hard wood as thick as
a man's leg. This should interest and encourage those
who have gawky plants. Growth will break from
brown barky wood that shows no sign of buds. A
dressing of leaf mould or decayed manure is spread
over the roots. For other references to Azaleas and

316 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

Rhododendrons see Section A. on modern shrubs,
also Chapters III., VII., XL (propagation) XIII.
(pruning), XIV., XIX. (rock subjects), XXV. and
XXVI. (forcing).

RHODORA — One species with purple and red
flowers is often met with under the name of Rhodora
canadensis (syn. Rhododendron Rhodora). It needs
the same treatment as Rhododendrons.

RHODOTYPOS. — The only species is kerrioides,
a deciduous shrub growing up to twelve feet high,
with white flowers in April. Ordinary soil.

RHUS (SUMACH).— Several of the Sumachs,
notably Cotinus, glabra and typhina, are much esteemed
for the rich colour of their foliage in autumn. The
first named, the Smoke Plant, is also effective when
the seed plumes form after the flowers. The principal
species are copallina, height up to six feet, yellow
flowers in summer ; Cotinus, eight feet, pale purple,
purpurea is a dark-leaved form ; cotinoides ; glabra,
twelve feet, yellow, laciniata is a cut-leaved form ; and
typhina, twelve feet, greenish yellow, fine foliage ;
laciniata is a cut-leaved form of it. R. Toxicodendron,
the Poison Oak or Poison Ivy, is a rambler with green-
ish yellow flowers, and must be dressed with gloved
hands ; radicans is a creeping form. Ordinary soil.

RIBES. — This genus includes the fruiting Currants
and Gooseberries. Several of the species are beautiful
flowering deciduous shrubs and bloom early. The
principal ornamental species are aureum, height up
to six feet, yellow, April, there are several forms,
including an early, praecox ; Gordonianum, eight feet,

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 317

a hybrid between aureum and sanguineum, yellow and
red, spring j sanguineum, eight feet, rose, March,
several varieties, including white, deep red, double and
pale pink; and speciosum, eight feet, red, summer, very
beautiful. Sanguineum is one of the most useful shrubs
for exposed places and poor limestone soil. The foliage
has an agreeable aromatic odour, especially after rain.

ROBINIA. — Amongst the most useful of small
trees, because the foliage is graceful, the flowers are
attractive and they will thrive in town gardens. The
principal species are hispida, the Rose Acacia, height
up to eight feet, rose flowers in May, inermis (syn.
macrophylla) is a superior form without prickles ;
neo-mexicana, thirty feet, rose flowers in autumn ;
Pseudacacia, the Locust Tree, False or Bastard Acacia,
thirty to fifty feet, white flowers in spring, angustifolia,
aurea, Bessoniana, crispa, robusta Vignei, Decaisneana,
inermis, i. variegata, semperflorens and tortuosa are
good varieties of it ; and viscosa (syn. glutinosa),
thirty feet, rose flowers in May. Ordinary soil.

ROCK ROSE OR ROCK CISTUS.—See Cistus.

ROSE.— See Chapters VII., XL, XV., XVIII.
and XIX.

ROSE ACACIA.— See Robinia.

ROSEMARY.— Rosmarinus officinalis is the Rose-
mary, a dense evergreen, growing about four feet high,
with small deep green aromatic foliage and lilac flowers.
There is a form called prostrata, well suited to the rock
garden. Ordinary soil.

RU BUS. —This genus includes the Blackberry and
Raspberry. The principal ornamental species are

318 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

biflorus, height up to ten feet, white flowers in pairs
in May, white stems ; deliciosus, six feet, white, May,
edible fruit, does well when pruned as a bush ; lasio-
stylus, valuable for its white stems ; leucodermis, ten
feet, white, early summer, black fruit ; and odoratus,
six feet, purplish red, yellow fruit. R. Idaeus is the
Raspberry ; R. laciniatus the parsley-leaved Black-
berry or Bramble ; and R. phcenicolasius the Wine-
berry. The so-called Strawberry-Raspberry is a form
of R. rosaefolius. Three other handsome Rubuses
are bambusarum, with trailing branches, trifoliate
leaves and black fruit ; flagelliformis, a species from
Central China with metallic leaves and white flowers ;
and innominatus, trifoliate leaves, pubescent stems
and orange fruits in long panicles. Good loamy soil.

RUSCUS. — Aculeatus is the Butcher's Broom, see
Chapters XVI. and XXV. Racemosus is the Alex-
andrian Laurel, an evergreen growing about four feet
high, with greenish yellow flowers in April. Hypo-
glossum, one foot, has yellow flowers in May.
Aculeatus will thrive under trees. Both male and
female forms must be planted to insure fruit. Ordinary
soil.

SALISBURIA.—See Ginkgo.

SALT TREE. — See Halimodendron.

SALIX (WILLOW).— The best of these are des-
cribed in Chapter XXII.

SAMBUCUS.—See Elder.

SARCOCOCCA.—See Section A.

SAXEG0TH2EA. — Conspicua is the Conifer called
Prince Albert's Yew. Culture as for Yews.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 319

SCARLET ELDER.— See Elder.

SCARLET MAPLE.— See Acer.

SCHIZOPHRAGMA.—See Section A on modern
shrubs.

SCIADOPITYS.— Verticillata is the Umbrella
Pine, an evergreen Conifer with whorled leaves in
large bunches, suitable for a lawn tree and growing
up to eighty feet high, but developing slowly. It
should have good, well-drained soil in a sheltered place
and be frequent lv mulched with decayed leaves.

SCOTCH ELM.— See Elm.

SCOTCH LABURNUM.— See Laburnum.

SCOTCH FIR OR PINE.— Pinus sylvestris.

SENECIO. — A few of the Ragworts are evergreen
shrubs, including compacta, elaeagnifolius (not quite
hardy) Grayii and rotundifolius.

SEA BUCKTHORN.— See Hippophae.

SEQUOIA.— See Conifers, Chapter XVII.

SERVICE TREE.— See Pyrus.

SHEPHERDIA. — A small genus of deciduous
shrubs, of which argentea alone, with yellow flowers
in April followed by acid scarlet berries, is met with
in cultivation. It likes the same conditions as Hippo-
phae.

SIBERIAN CRAB.— See Pyrus.

SKIMMIA. — Useful evergreens, Fortunei, height
up to three feet, greenish white flowers in spring,
followed by berries; and japonica, three feet, spring,
white, with its variety fragrans, are generally grown.
Japonica is a great favourite and fruits well if both
male and female forms are planted. Peat and loam.

320 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

SLOE. — Primus spinosa.

SMILAX.— See Chapter XVIII.

SNOWBALL TREE.— Viburnum opulus sterile.

SNOWBERR Y. — Symphoricarpus racemosus.

SNOWDROP TREE.—Ualesia. tetraptera.

SNOWY MESPILUS.—See Amelanchier.

SOLANUM. — One member of this large genus is
a hardy shrub against a wall, and that is crispum,
which has beautiful blue flowers in summer followed
by yellow and white fruit. Loam.

SOPHORA. — Japonica, the Pagoda Tree, is a
popular deciduous tree growing up to thirty feet
high, with white flowers in August ; pendula is a
drooping variety of it and there is a variegated form.
Sandy loam.

SOUTHERNWOOD.—See Artemisia.

SPANISH BROOM. —See Spartium.

SPANISH CHESTNUT.—See Castanea.

SPARTIUM. — Junceum is the Spanish Broom,
which grows up to eight or nine feet high and has
yellow flowers in summer ; there is a double variety.
Ordinary soil.

SPINDLE TREE.— See Euonymus.

SPIRAEA. — A large genus, comprising both herb-
aceous and shrubby kinds. Some of the best of the
latter are dealt with in Chapters IX. and XIX. Forcing
is treated in Chapter XXVI. The following are all
good shrubs and have white flowers except where
otherwise stated ; the figures indicate the average
height : Aitchisonii, cream, 6, summer ; arguta, 4,
late spring or early summer ; discolor ariaefolia,

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 321

8, summer ; bella, 3, red, July ; bracteata, 3, June ;
bullata (syn. crispifolia), pink, ij, summer; japonica
(syn. callosa), rose, 4, June; j. Anthony Waterer,
crimson, 3, summer ; j . Bumalda, crimson, 3, summer ;
atrosanguinea, pumila alba and superba are also forms
of japonica (note that japonica is not the Spiraea
japonica of bulb merchants, which is Astilbe japonica) ;
media (syn. confusa), 3, June ; Douglasii, rose, 6,
August ; Lindleyana, 6, August ; prunifolia no re
pleno, 3, spring, double ; Cantoniensis (syns. corym-
bosa and Reevesiana) 3, summer ; canescens (syn.
rotundifolia), 4, summer ; salicifolia, pink, 4, July ;
and sorbifolia, 4, summer. Others are hypericifolia,
laevigata, nobleana, opulifolia (syn. Neillia opulifolia)
and tomentosa ; Laevigata has foliage resembling the
Spurge Laurel.

SPRUCE FIR.— Picea excelsa.

SPURGE LA UREL.— Daphne Laureola.

ST. JOHN'S WORT.—See Hypericum.

STACHYCARPUS.—See Prumnopitys.

STACHYURUS.— Praecox (syn. japonicus) bears
pendulous yellow catkins in spikes in spring ; it should
be grown on a wall. Ordinary soil, if friable and well-
drained. It should have full exposure to sun.

ST APHYLE A. —Deciduous shrubs, of which col-
chica, which grows up to five feet high and bears ivory
white drooping flowers in spring, is the best known ;
it forces well. See Chapter XXVI. Bumalda,
Coulombieri and pinnata, all with white flowers, are
also offered. Other species are monadelpha, serrata
and virginica.

322 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

ST A UNTONIA . — Evergreen climbers. Hexaphylla
has sweet white flowers in spring. Latifolia
is the same as Holboellia latifolia. Loam and leaf
mould.

STEPHANANDRA .—Deciduous shrubs, worth
growing for their autumn colour. Both flexuosa and
Tanakse grow about three feet high and have white
flowers in summer. The leaves of Tanakae colour well
in autumn. Ordinary soil.

STONE PINE.— Pinus Pinea.

STRANVJESIA.— See Section A.

STRAWBERRY TREE. —See Arbutus.

STUARTIA. — Beautiful deciduous shrubs with
flowers like small single Camellias. Pentagyna and
Pseudo-Camellia both grow six to ten feet high and
have creamy flowers in summer. The latter is the
stronger, and the leaves have rich autumn colour.
Blooming as they do later than most shrubs, and in-
trinsically beautiful, the Stuartias should be very
popular, but they are not planted much. They are
rather slow growers and not perfectly hardy, but if
planted in loam in a moist sheltered spot where the
roots can be protected from hot sun without the whole
plant being shaded they will thrive. A bleak spot and
a cold or very dry soil do not suit them. Annual
mulchings of peat, loam and decayed manure are
beneficial.

STY RAX. — Beautiful deciduous trees. Japonica
grows eight to twelve feet high and has deep green
ovate-lanceolate leaves on horizontal branches and
fragrant drooping white flowers in early summer.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 323

Obassia blooms freely in white pendulous scented
racemes in June. Loam and leaf mould.

SUMACH.— See Rhus.

SWEET BA Y.— See Laurus.

SWEET GALE — Myrica Gale.

SYCAMORE. — This popular tree is referred to in
Chapter IX., also under Acer. The Sycamore is Acer
Pseudo-platanus ; there are forms called atropur-
pureum, Leopoldii, lutescens, Prinz Handjery and
Worlei. It is a good town and seaside tree.

SYCOPSIS SINENSIS.— See Section A on
modern shrubs.

SYMPHORICARPUS.— Racemosus is the Snow-
berry, a deciduous shrub about six feet high, with rose
flowers in summer, followed by abundant small white
fruits ; purpureus is a dark form. Acutus (syn.
mollis), pink flowers in summer, and the variegated
form of orbiculatus (syn. vulgaris) are also met with.
Ordinary soil.

SYMPLOCOS CRATMGIOIDES.—K rare tree
with panicles of white flowers.

SYRINGA. — This is the Lilac genus. The name
Syringa is commonly, but erroneously, applied to the
Mock Orange (Philadelphus). S. vulgaris is the
common Lilac ; see Chapters IX. and XXVI. where
good varieties, suitable alike for garden and forcing,
are named. S. persica is the Persian Lilac, which is
smaller in all its parts than vulgaris ; there is a white
form. Other Syringas which should have the shrub-
lover's attention are Emodii, white, spring-blooming,
height up to nine feet ; there is a form with variegated

324 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

leaves ; Josikaea, lilac, eight feet ; pekinensis, white ;
and villosa, rose. Japonica is a late bloomer with
cream flowers that have the scent of Privet.

TAMARIX (TAMARISK).— One of the best of
seaside shrubs ; see Chapter XXL Gallica, with pink
flowers in summer, height up to eight feet, is generally
met with ; but hispida aestivalis, a beautiful shrub
with rosy mauve inflorescence, is better for the garden,
especially when grown in rich soil and cut hard back
in spring. Tetrandra has white flowers. Germanica
is now referred to the genus Myricaria. Parviflora
of gardens is the same as Gallica ; and Pallasii is a
form of it. Loam.

TAXODIUM. — Distichum is the deciduous or
Swamp Cypress, a handsome tree with swollen
buttresses near the base ; it likes a damp site.
Several forms are met with, notably a weeper,
pendulum.

TAXUS (YEW).— This genus is dealt with in
Chapter XVII. , where some of the best varieties are
named. See also Chapter XXIII. on Clipped Trees
and Chapter XXIV. on Hedges. Ordinary soil.

TEUCRIUM. — Most of this genus are herbaceous,
but fruticans, which grows about three feet high and
has blue flowers in August, is a shrub ; it should be
grown on a wall. Ordinary soil.

THAMNOCALAMUS.— See Bambocs.

THERMOPSIS. — Laburnifolia is the same as Pip-
tanthus nepalensis.

THORNS.—See Chapters VIII., IX., XIII. and
XXIV., also Crataegus.

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 325

THUYA. — Remarks on these beautiful Conifers
will be found in Chapter XVII.

THUYOPSIS.—See Thuya.

TILIA. — See Lime and Section A.

TOPIARY.— See Chapter XXIII.

TORREYA. — A small genus of evergreen Conifers,
of which californica, grandis, nucifera and taxifolia
are the most important species. They have an un-
pleasant odour. Ordinary soil.

TRAVELLER'S JOY.— Clematis Vitalba.

TREE IVY. — Hedera arborea ; chrysophylla and
elegantissima are varieties ; thev are good as standards.

TREE P&ONY.—See Pseony.

TRICUSPIDARI A. —The plant first called Crino-
dendron Hookerianum and subsequently named Tri-
cuspidaria dependens is a beautiful South American
gem, with foliage resembling the Bog Myrtle (Myrica),
and drooping coral-pink flowers in spring. We are now
told that it should be called lanceolata, and that the
true dependens has drooping, white, fringed flowers.
It thrives best on the western seaboard of the British
Isles in loam and peat. In colder districts it should be
planted against a wall.

TROCHODENDRON.— The only species, aralioides,
is an uncommon evergreen with glossy green leaves,
growing up to twelve feet high, and bearing greenish
flowers in spring. It can only be grown outside in
mild districts. Sandy peat.

TSUGA. — Evergreen Conifers closely related to
Abies, Picea and Pinus. The best known species is
canadensis (syn. Abies, Picea and Pinus canadensis)

326 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

the Hemlock Spruce ; there are several garden forms,
notably argentea, silvery ; parvifolia, small-leaved ;
and pendula, drooping. Hookeriana (syn. Abies
Albertiana and Abies and Pinus Mertensiana), and
Pattoniana (syn. Pinus Pattoniana) are other good
species. Deep loam.

TULIP TREE. — See Liriodendron.

TURKEY OAK.— Quercus Cerris.

ULEX. — See Furze.

ULMUS.—See Elm.

UMBRELLA PINE.— See Sciadopitys.

VACCINIUM. — A large but not very important
genus, mostly composed of deciduous shrubs. Myr-
tillus, with rose flowers in spring, height up to two feet ,
is the Bilberry, Blueberry or Whortleberry ; the fruit
is dark blue. Ovatum, rose flowers in spring, height
up to five feet, dark red fruit ; pennsylvanicum,
brightly coloured in autumn, dwarf, dark blue fruit j
stamineum, purple, three feet ; uliginosum, pink,
dwarf ; and Vitis-Idaea, pink, evergreen, red fruit,
dwarf, the Cowberry, are a few of the principal species.
Moist sandy peat.

VERONICA.— See Chapters IX., XVIII. and XIX.

VIBURNUM. — A large genus, and one which in-
cludes some very beautiful shrubs, notably Opulus,
the Guelder Rose, and its form sterile, the Snow-
ball Tree ; and plicatum. V. Lantana is the Wayfaring
Tree of the hedgerows, one of the most attractive of
our common wildings, alike in flower and fruit, well
worth growing in dry-soil gardens. V. Tinus is the
evergreen Laurustinus ; see Laurustinus. Sieboldi,

THE BEST SHRUBS AND TREES 327

with dark green opposite leaves, resembles plicatum.
Among the deciduous species not mentioned, dilatatum,
height up to ten feet, white flowers in early summer ;
prunifolium, twelve feet, white ; macrocephalum,
twenty feet, white, early summer ; and nudum,
white, May, ten feet, are the most important. Opulus
sterile, with its white balls as large as oranges, is cer-
tainly the most beautiful of the Viburnums, but it is
pressed hard by plicatum, a form of tomentosum,
which covers itself with white flowers in May ; plicatum
does well in peat. Opulus fruits, but the form sterile
is barren. Ordinary soil. See also Section A on
modern shrubs.

VI NC A. —See Chapter XXV.

VIRGILIA.—See Cladrastis.

VIRGINIAN CREEPER.— See Chapter XVIII.,
also Ampelopsis in this section.

VIRGIN'S BOWER.— Clematis Flammula.

VITEX.— Agnus-castus is hardy ; it is a deciduous
shrub growing about six feet high, with lilac flowers
in August. Sandy loam.

VITIS.— See Chapter XVIII. and Ampelopsis in
this section.

WALNUT.— See Juglans.

WEEPING WILLOW.— See Chapter XXII.

WEIGELA.— See Diervilla.

WELLINGTONIA.—See Chapter XVII.

WEYMOUTH PINE.— Pinus Strobus.

WHITE BEAM TREE.— Pryus aria.

WHITETHORN.— Crataegus Oxyacantha.

WILLOW.— See Chapter XXII.

21a

328 GARDEN TREES AND SHRUBS

WILLOW OAK.— Quercus Phellos.

WINTER'S BARK.— See Drimys.

WISTARIA.— See Chapter XVIII. for varieties.
Good loamy soil suits them.

WITCH HAZEL.— See Hamamelis.

WYCH ELM —See Elm.

XANTHOCERAS. — The only species is sorbifolia,
a small deciduous tree growing up to fifteen feet high,
with white, red-spotted flowers in July. It should
not be grown in an exposed place. Sandy loam.

XANTHORRHIZA (or Z A NT HO RRH I Z A). —The
only species is aphfolia, a deciduous shrub growing up
to three feet high, with purple flowers in April. Loam.

YEW.— See Chapters XVII., XXIII. and XXIV.

YUCCA.— See Chapters XVI. and XIX. for selec-
tions. They like sandy loam.

YULAN. — See Magnolia conspicua.

ZELKOVA. — A small genus of deciduous trees
resembling Elms. Acuminata (syn. Planera acuminata)
which grows up to forty feet high, with the male flowers
in green racemes in April, is the only one grown to any
great extent. Davidiana is a small slender tree from
Mongolia.

ZENOBIA. — Speciosa, the only one grown, is a
shrub growing about four feet high, with small white
drooping cup-shaped flowers in summer. It is the
same as Andromeda cassinesefolia and A. speciosa.
There are few more beautiful shrubs than this when
it is grown in moist peat.

Index.

Abele (see also Poplar), 240.

Abelias, 240.

Abies, 146, 150, 240.

Abutilons, 240.

Acacia (see Robinia).

Acanthopanax (see Aralia).

Acers, 128, 130, 131, 133, 222,
241.

Actinidias, 156, 223, 242.

Adenocarpus, 242.

^Esculus (see also Chestnut),
242.

Ailantus, 242.

Akebia quinata, 156.

Alaternus (see Rhamnus).

Alders, 130, 191, 243.

Alexandrian Laurel (see Ruscus).

Almonds (see also Prunus), 77.

Alpine Roses (see also Rhodo-
dendrons), 174.

Althaea (see Hibiscus).

Amelanchier, 75, 134, 243.

American Allspice (see Caly-
canthus.

American Arbor-vitae (see Thuya
and Conifers) .

Amorphas, 244.

Ampelopsis (see also Vitis), 244.

Amphirapis albescens, 223.

Amygdalus (see Almonds and
Prunus.)

Andromedas, 245.

Apples, 76.

Apricots (see Prunus).

Aralias, 245.

Araucarias, 147, 245.
Arbor-vitae (see Thuya and

Hedges).
Arbutuses, 246.
Arctostaphylos, 246.
Aristochias, 156, 223, 246.
Aristotelia, 246.

Aronia (see Crataegus and Pyrus).
Arrangement of Shrubs and

Trees for Shelter and Beauty,

69.
Artemisias, 247.
Arundinarias (see Bamboos).
Arundo, 247.
Ash, 129, 132, 229, 247.
Aspen, 72, 190, 248.
Athrotaxis, 154.
Atragene (see Clematis).
Atriplex Halimus, 186.
Aucubas, 181, 206, 248.
Austrian Pine (see Conifers).
Azaleas, 78, 176, 214.
Azaras, 248.

B.

Baccharis, 223, 248.
Balsam Poplar (see Poplar).
Bamboos, 129, 192, 249.
Barberries (see Berberis).
Bay (see Laurus).
Beeches, 131, 202, 250.
Benthamia, 250.
Berberidopsis corallina, 156.
Berberises, 74, 76, 77, 131, 133,
139, 184, 202, 206, 223, 250.
Berchemia, 251.

329

330

INDEX.

Betula (see also Birch), 251.

Bignonias, 157, 251.

Birches, 71, 132, 224.

Bird Cherry (see Prunus Padus).

Bladder Senna (see Colutea).

Bleak places, Shrubs and Trees

for (see Chapter XXL).
Box, 74, 128, 139, 252.
Box Thorn (see Lycium).
Bramble (see Rubus).
Briers, 135.
Bridgesia (see Ercilla).
Brooms, 79, 132, 177, 252.
Broussonetia, 224, 252.
Bruckenthalia, 252.
Bryan thus, 253.
Buckthorn (see Rhamnus).
Buckthorn, Sea (see Hippophae).
Buddleias, 80, 157, 224, 253.
Bupleurums, 253.
Butcher's Broom (see also

Ruscus), 141, 208.
Buxus (see Box).

C.

Cassalpinias, 253.
Calluna, 254.
Calophaca, 254.
Calycanthus, 157, 254.
Camellias, 225, 254.
Candleberry Myrtle (see Myrica).
Caprifolium (see Lonicera and

Honeysuckle).
Caraganas, 225, 255.
Carpenteria, 255.
Carpinus, 255.
Carya, 256.
Caryopteris, 256.
Cassandras, 256.
Cassinia (see Diplopappus).
Cassiope, 256.
Castanea, 256.
Castanopsis, 257.
Catalpas, 130, 133, 225, 257.
Ceanothuses, 81, 157.

Cedars, 147.

Cedrus (see Cedar).

Celastrus, 225, 257.

Celtis, 257.

Cephalotaxus, 154, 257, 258.

Cerasus (see also Prunus), 258.

Cercidiphyllum, 258.

Cercis, 258.

Chamsecyparis (see Cupressus).

Cherries (see also Cerasus and

Prunus), 215.
Cherry Plum, 259.
Chestnuts (see also Castanea and

vEsculus) yi, 133, 181.
Chile Pine (see Araucaria).
Chimonathus, 157, 259.
Chinese Arbor-vitae (see Thuya).
Chinese Pear (see Pyrus).
Chinese Shrubs and Trees, 221.
Chinese Yew (see Cephalotaxus).
Chionanthus, 259.
Choisya, 260.

Christ's Thorn (see Paliurus).
Cissus (see Vitis).
Cistuses, 175.
Citrus, 260.
Cladrastis, 260.
Clematises, 158, 225, 260.
Clerodendron, 225, 263.
Clethra, 263.
Climbers, 155.
Clipped Trees, 193.
Cluster Pine (see Pinus Pinaster).
Cocculus, 226.
Cockspur Thorn, Crataegus Crus-

galli.
Colutea, 263.
Comptonia (see Myrica).
Conifers, 143, 179, 186, 191.
Corchorus (see Kerria).
Coriaria, 226, 263.
Cork Oak (see Quercus Suber).
Cornelian Cherry (see Cornus

Mas).
Cornish Elm (see Elm).
Cornuses, 129, 132, 264.

INDEX.

331

Corokia, 265.

Coronillas, 265.

Corsican Pine (see Pinus Laricio).

Cortaderia (see Gynerium).

Corylopsis, 226, 265.

Corylus (see Hazel).

Cotoneasters, 133, 135, 159, 179,
226.

Cranberry (see Oxycoccus macro-
carpus).

Crabs, 135, 265.

Crataego-Mespilus, 227.

Crataeguses, 134, 140, 160, 266.

Crinodendron (see Tricuspidaria).

Cryptomerias, 147, 267.

Cunninghamia, 154, 267.

Cupressus, 148, 267.

Currants, Flowering (see Ribes).

Cuttings of Shrubs and Trees,
94-100.

Cydonias, 136, 160, 268.

Cypress (see Cupressus).

Cytisuses, 80, 177, 227, 268.

D.

Daboecias, 79, 174.

Dacrydium, 154.

Daphnes, 79, 140, 176, 227, 269.

Daphniphyllum, 269.

Dartmouth Crab (see Crabs).

Davidia, 227.

Decaisnea, 269.

Deciduous Cypress (seeTaxodium

distichum).
Desfontainea spinosa, 269.
Desmodiums, 270.
Deutzias, 228, 270.
Diervillas, 79, 271.
Dimorphanthus mandshuricus

(see Aralia).
Diospyros, 272.
Dipelta, 228.
Diplopappus, 272.
Dirca, 272.
Dividing Shrubs and Trees, 105.

Dogwood (see Cornus).
Draining, 189.
Drimys, 228, 272.
Dry as octopetala, 177.
Dutch garden, 193.

Edgeworthia, 272.

Edwardsia (seeSophora).

Elaeagnuses, 129, 186, 273.

Elders, 130, 182, 191, 273.

Eleutherococcus, 229.

Elms, 130, 273.

Embothrium coccineum, 160.

Empetrums, 274.

Enemies of Shrubs and Trees,

106.
Enkianthus, 274.
Epigaea, 274.
Ercilla, 274.
Ericas, 174, 274.
Eriobotrya, 275.
Eriobolus, 228.
Escallonias, 140, 160, 275.
Eucalyptus, 276.
Eucommia, 229.
Eucryphias, 276.
Eugenia, 276.
Euony muses, 75, 129, 131, 14°.

182, 229, 276.
Euptelea, 229.
Eurya, 277.
Eurybia (see Olearia).
Evergreen Oak (see also Quercus

Ilex), 73.
Evergreens, 82, 137.
Evergreen Thorn (see Crataegus

Pyracantha).
Exochorda, 229, 277.

F.

Fabiana, 277.
Fagus (see Beech).
Fendlera, 277.

332

INDEX.

Firs, 72.
Fitzroya, 278.
Flowering Ash (6ee Ash).
Forcing, Shrubs and Trees for,

210.
Forsythias, 41, 79, 229, 278.
Fothergilla, 278.
Fraxinus (see Ash).
Fremontia, 278.

Fringe Tree, (see Chionanthus).
Fuchsias, 278.
Furze, 279.

Garden seclusion, 19.

Garrya elliptica, 161, 279.

Gaultherias, 208, 279.

Genistas (see also Broom), 177.

Ginkgo biloba, 134, 149, 280.

Glastonbury Thorn (see Crataegus).

Gleditschias, 229, 280.

Goat Moth, 107.

Golden Arbor-vitae (see Thuya).

Golden Laurel (see Larch).

Golden Chestnut (see Castanea).

Gordonia, 280.

Gorse (see Furze).

Grafting Shrubs and Trees, 101.

Grevillea, 281.

Griselinia, 281.

Group -planting, 74.

Guelder Rose (see Viburnum).

Gum Cistus (see Cistus).

Gymnocladus, 230, 281.

Gynerium, 281.

H.

Halesia, 282.
Halimodendron, 282.
Hamamelis, 282.
Hawthorn (see Crataegus).
Hazel, 283.

Heaths (see also Erica), 174.
Hederas (Ivy), 129, 161.

Hedgehog Holly (see Holly).

Hedges, Shrubs and Trees for,
199.

Hedysarum, 283.

Helianthemums, 177, 283.

Hemlock Spruce (Abies cana-
densis).

Hibiscuses, 283.

Hickory (see Carya).

Hippophae, 135, 284.

Hollies, 128, 129, 203, 207, 230,
284.

Honey Locust (Gleditschia tri-
acanthos) .

Honeysuckles, 130, 163, 285.

Hop Tree (see Ptelea).

Hornbeam (see Carpinus, also
Hedges, Chapter XXIV).

Horse Chestnut (see Chestnut).

Hydrangeas, 40, 80, 162, 230,
285.

Hymenanthera, 286.

Hypericums, 140, 286.

j Ideal, an, 13.
Idesia, 287.
Ilex (see Holly).
Illicium, 287.
Incense Cedar (Libocedrus

decurrens).
Indigofera, 287.
Irish Heath (see Daboecia).
Irish Ivy (Hedera Helix canarien-

sis).
Irish Yew (Taxus baccata fasti-

giata).
Itea, 287.
Ivies, 129, 161.

J-

Jamesia, 288.

Japanese Cedar (see Cryptomeria).

INDEX.

333

Japanese Quince (see Pyrus

Japonic a).
Japanese Dwarf trees, 216.
Jasmines, 130, 162, 231, 288.
Judas tree (see Cercis Sihquas-

trum).
Juglans, 231, 288.
Junipers, 150.

K.

Kalmias, 140. 288-
Kerria, 129, 163, 289.
Kolreuteria, 289.

Laburnums, 75, 289.
Landscape effects, 56.
Larches, 108, 150.
Lardizabala, 290.
Larix, see Larch.

Laurels, 151, 201, 290.

Laurus, 290.

Laurustinus, 75, 290.

Lavender, 291-

Lavender Cotton, 129.

Lawns, Shrubs and Trees for,

123.
Layering Shrubs and Trees, 104.

Lead Plant (see Amorpha).

Leatherwood (see Dirca).

Ledums, 291.

Leaf tints, 127.

Leiophyllum, 291.

Leptospermum, 231.

Lespedeza, 291.

Leucothoe (see Andromeda).

Leycesteria, 292.

Libocedrus, 154, 292-

Ligustrums, 231, 292.

Lilacs, 75, 2 12.

Lime Tree (Linden), 180, 292.

Lindera, 293.

Ling, 130.

Liquidambar, 231, 293.

Liriodendron, 231.
Locust Tree (see Kobinia).
Lonicera (see also Honeysuckle),

232.
Loquat (see Eriobotrya).
Loropetalum, 293.
Lupinus, 294.
Lycium, 294.

M.

Madura, 294.

Magnolias, 134. '4°. l64> l77>

215, 232, 294.
Mahonia (see Berberis).
Maidenhair Tree (see Ginkgo

biloba).
Manure not essential, 49.
Maples, 128, 131. 1 33-
Meliosma myriantha, 295.

Menispermum, 295.
Menziesia(seeDaboecia).
Mespilus (see Amelanchier)
Mock Oranges (see Philadelphus) .

Morus, 296.

Mountain Ash, 76, 135. 296.

Moving Shrubs and Trees, 50.

i 83" ,■ *

I Muehlenbeckia, 290.

j Mulberry (see also Morus), 181.

Myrica, 296. .

1 Myricaria (see Tamanx.)
Myrobalan Plum (see Hedges,

Chapter XXIV.).
Myrtles, 164, 297.

N.

Nandina, 297.
Negundo, 297.
Neillia, 130, 297-
Nettle Tree (see Celtis).

Neviusia, 298.

Norway Maple, (see Acer)

Norway Spruce (Abies excelsa).
Notospartium, 298.

334

INDEX.

Nuts, 130, 131.
Nuttallia, 298.

O.

Oaks, -j 1, 130, 134, 298.

Olea, 299.

Olearias, 86, 299.

Ononis, 300.

Osage Orange (see Madura).

Osmanthus, 75, 129, 131, 232,

300.
Osteomeles, 301.
Othera, 301.
Oxycoccus, 301.
Oxydendron, 301.
Ozothamnus, 301.

P.

Pachysandra, 233.

Paeonies, Tree, j6, 301.

Paliurus, 302.

Pampas Grass (see also Gynerium)

125.
Parrotia, 302.

Passiflora (Passion flower), 164.
Paulownias, 233, 302.
Pa via (see /Esculus).
Peaches, 212, 303.
Pears, 303.
Pergolas, 155.
Periploca, 165, 303.
Periwinkle, 141, 208.
Pernettyas, 135, 174, 303.
Perowskia, 303.
Persimmon (see Diospyros).
Philadelphuses, 76, 129, 130, 303.
Philesia, 304.
Phillyraea, 233, 304.
Phlomis, 304.
Photinia, 304.

Phyllostachys (see Bamboos).
Piceas, 146, 150.
Pieris, 305.
Pines'(Pinus), 71, 151.

Piptanthus, 305.

Pittosporum, 305.

Plagianthus, 306.

Planera (see Zelkova).

Planes, 180, 306.

Planting Shrubs and Trees,
77-

Platanus (see Planes).

Plum, Purple-leaved (Prunus
Pissardii).

Plum, Myrobalan, 202.

Podocarpus, 154, 306. '•

Poison Ivy (see Rhus Toxico-
dendron).

Poison Oak (see Rhus Toxico-
dendron).

Poliothyrsis, 233.

Polygala, 306.

Polygonums, 165, 306.

Pomegranate (seePunica).

Poplars, 72, 129, 130, 190, 233,

307-
Portugal Laurel (see Laurel).
Potentillas, 233, 307.
Prinos, 307.

Privet, 129, 142, 201, 208.
Propagation of Shrubs and Trees,

91.
Prumnopitys, 154, 307.
Pruning Shrubs and Trees, 51,

109.
Prunus, 76, 131, 234, 308.
Pseudolarix, 154, 309.
Pseudostuga, 152, 309.
Ptelea, 309.
Pterocarya, 310.
Pterostyrax (see Halesia).
Punica, 310.

Pyracantha (see Crataegus).
Pyruses, 74, 76, 143, 212, 215,

310.

Q-
Quercus (see Oak).
Quick, 200.
Quince, 136.

INDEX.

335

K.

Raphiolepis, 311.
Retinosporas, 149.
Rhamnus, 311.
Rhododendrons, 48, 78, 1 10, 142,

174, 207, 215, 234, 312.
Rhodora, 316.
Rhus, 316.
Ribes, 40, 236, 316.
Robinias, 317.
Rock Gardens, Shrubs for, 170,

179.
Rock Roses, 175.
Rose Acacia (see Robinia).
Rosemary, 317.
Roses, 48, 135, 165, 177, 236.
Rubus, 132, 236, 317.
Ruscus, 318.

St. John's Wort (see Hypericum).
Salisburia adiantifolia (see Ginkgo

biloba).
Salt Tree (see Halimodendron).
Salix (see Chapter XXII.).
Sambucus (see Elder).
Sarcococca, 209, 236.
Saxegothaea, 154, 318.
Scarlet Maple (see Acer).
Sciadopitys, 154, 319.
Schizophragma, 237.
Scotch Elm (see Elm).
Screening unsightly objects, 59.
Sea Buckthorn (see Hippophae),
Seaside, Shrubs and Trees for,

184.
Seeds of Shrubs and Trees, 92.
Senecio, 319.
Sequoia, 152.
Service Tree (see Pyrus).
Shade, Shrubs for, 141, 205.
Shelter planting, 7 1 .
Shepherdia, 319.

Shrub Beds and Borders, 36.
Shrubs for Shade and Under-
growth, 205.
Shrubs for Forcing, 210.
Shrubs for Rock Gardens, 170.
Siberian Crab, 76.
Skimmias, 319.
Sloe (see Primus spinosa).
Smilax, 167.
Snowball Tree (see Viburnum

Opulus sterile).
Snowberry (see Symphoricarpus

racemosus.
Snowdrop Tree (see Halesia

tetraptera).
Snowy Mespilus (see Amelanchier).
Soils, Special, 53.
Solanum, 320.
Sophora, 320.
Southernwood (see Artemisia

Abrotanum).
Spanish Broom (see Spartium).
Spanish Chestnut (seeCastanea).
Spartium, 320.

Spindle Tree (see Euonymus) .
Spiraeas, 76, 80, 178, 216, 237, 320.
Spring Beauty, 36.
Spruce Fir (Picea excelsa).
Spurge Laurel (see Daphne

Laureola).
Stachycarpus (see Prumnopitys) .
Stachyurus, 321.
Staking Trees, 77.
Staphyleas, 216, 321.
Stauntonias, 322.
Stem tints, 127.
Stephanandra, 322.
Stone Pine (Pinus Pinea).
Stranvassia, 237.
Strawberry Tree, (see Arbutus).
Stuartias, 322.
Styrax, 237, 322.
Suburban Shrubs and Trees, 180.
Sumachs (see also Rhus), 134,

136.
Sweet Bay (see Laurus).

336

INDEX.

Sweetbrier, 203.
Sweet Gale (see Myrica Gale).
Sycamore, j-$, 129, 131, 323.
Sycopsis, 237.
Symphoricarpus, 75, 323.
Syringas, 323.

Tamarix, 186,324.
Taxodium, 154, 324.
Taxus, 152, 324.
Tetracentron, 238.
Teucrium, 324.

Thamnocalamus (see Bamboo).
Thermopsis (see Piptanthus

nepalensis).
Thorns, 74, 132, 134.
Thuya, 153.

Thuyopsis (see Thuya).
Tilia (see also Lime Tree), 238.
Topiary, 193.
Torreya,i54, 325.
Town Shrubs and Trees, 180.
Travellers' Joy (see Clematis

Vitalba).
Tree Ivy (see Ivy and Hedera).
Tree of Heaven (see Ailantus

glandulosa) .
Tree Paeony (see Paeony).
Trees for Forcing, 240.
Trees for Shelter and Shade, 205.
Tricuspidaria, 325.
Trochodendron, 325.
Tsuga, 153, 325.
Tulip Tree (see Liriodendron

tulipifera).
Turkey Oak (see Quercus Cerris).

U.

Ulex (see Furze).
Ulmus (see Elm).
Umbrella Pine (see Sciadopitys

verticillata).
Undergrowth, 205.

V.

Vacciniums, 326.

Veronicas, 76, 140, 167, 178,

238.
Viburnums, 75, 238, 326.
Vincas (see Chapter XXV.).
Vine (see Vitis).
Virgilia (see Cladrastis).
Virginian Creeper (see also

Ampelopsis and Vitis), 132,

133, 167.
Virgin's Bower (see Clematis

Flammula).
Vitex, 327.
Vitis, 133, 167, 239.

W.

Walks, Shaded, 27.

Walnut (see Juglans).

Water for Young Shrubs and

Trees, 50.
Waterside Planting, 67.
Waterside, Shrubs and Trees for,

188.
Weeping Trees, 123.
Weeping Willow (see Chapter

XXII.).
Weigelas (see also Dier villas),

79-
Wellingtonia, 152.
Weymouth Pine (Pinus Strobus).
White Beam Tree (see Pyrus

Aria).
Whitethorn (see Crataegus Oxya-

cantha).
Willows, 132, 191.
Willow Oak (Quercus Phellos).
Wilson, E. H., 222.
Window Boxes, Conifers for,

i54-
Wistarias, 168.
Witch Hazel (see Hamamelis).

INDEX.

337

Witch-knots, 107.

Wood Leopard Moth, 107.

Woodland, 23.

Woodland Mystery, 19.

Wych Elm (see also Ulmus), 180.

X.

Xanthoceras, 328.
Xanthorrhiza, 328.

Yews, 152, 202.

Yuccas, 141, 178.

Yulan (see Magnolia conspicua).

Zelkova, 328.
Zenobia, 328.

HKADLLY UKOTHKRS. MISIIOPSUATK, K.C. ; AND ASHKOKI). KENT.

?B 435 W93. ;

University of British Columbia Library

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