THE DHN CARTER BROWN LIBRARY Bequest of V1AURY A. BROMSEN lPril 25, 1919-ocTOBER 11, 2005 o o o Gfer j^ •3 ;• : 0 § -SI w 1 -*>-■ w""*- I /// ht ' I THE GEOGRAPHICAL, NATURAL, AND CIVIL HISTORY OF CHILI. TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL ITALIAN QF THE ABBE DON J. IGNATIUS MOLINA. TO WUKH. ARE ADDED, NOTES FROM THE SPANISH AND FRENCH VERSIONS, AND TWO APPENDIXES, BY THE ENGLISH EDITOR; THE FIRST, AN ACCOUNT OF THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHILOE, FROM THE DESCRIFCION HISTORIAL OF P. F. PEDRO GONZALEZ DE AGUEROS ; THE SECOND, AN ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVE TRIBES WHO INHABIT THE SOUTHERN EXTBEMITY OF SOUTH AMERICA, EXTRACTED CHIEBLY FROM FALKNER's DESCRIPTION OF PATAGONIA. IN TWO VOLUMES, VOL. II. PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, AlSU ORME^ PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1809. Printed by J. D. Dewictf, 46, Barbican. THE iUfHOR'S PREFACE CIVIL HISTORY OF CHILI* if Four years have elapsed since I promised to. publish the present Essay on the Civil History of Chili, as a continuation of the one formerly written on the Natural History of that country. Engagements of this kind are, however, from their nature, conditional. When I undertook this work, it was in full confidence of being in a short time in possession of the necessary materials to complete it. The first volume of the Abbe Olivares' manuscript I had then in my possession ; this, with what works had appeared in print, supplied me with sufficient documents until the year 1665 ; and I was in constant ex- pectation of receiving from Peru the second volume of the same author, in which he has brought the subject down to a late period. ' a3 Vl In this hope I was disappointed. This yo- lume, on which I had so confidently relied, I have never received, and have heen in conse- quence compelled to seek from various other sources the information which it would have given me. The wars of the natives with the Spaniards being, however, the only proper sub- ject of Chilian History, and but two having occurred since, the above period, the first in 1722, and the second in 1767, I have been enabled, by the aid of some of my countrymen now in Italy, who recollect the principal events, to supply in some measure the want of a regular detail, and to give a sufficiently accurate ac- count of them. Having stated these circum- stances, I shall merely observe that, without being influenced by national distinctions or prejudices, the chief merit to which I aspire in this narration is that of impartiality. I have related nothing but what I have either found in those writers upon Chili who have preceded me, or have received from persons of unquestionable veracity, and have thought proper to confine myself to a plain narrative of facts, and omit all reflections that might occur, in order not to appear to be too much influenced in favour of either of the contending parties. The attention of several philologists has of late years been directed to the examination of the barbarous languages. For this reason I have Vll been induced to annex to this work some re- marks upon the Chilian tongue, which, from its structure and harmony, well merits to be known. Several printed and manuscript grammars of this language are to be met with, but the one which I have principally used is that of Febres, printed at Lima, in the year 1765, and deserving of particular recommendation for its method and its clearness. CONTENTS, BOOK I. J»AGE CHAPTER I.— ;Of the Origin, Appearance, and Lan- guage, of the Chilians, l CHAP. II.— Conquest of the Peruvians, « - 8 CHAP. III.— State of Chili before the arrival of the Spa- niards ; Its Agriculture and Aliment, - - - 12 CHAP. IV.— Political Establishments ; Government and Arts, - 18 CHAP. V. — First Expedition of the Spaniards to Chili, CHAP. VI. — The Spaniards return to Chili, under the Command of Pedro de Valdivia ; St. Jago the Capital founded ; Various Encounters with the Natives ; Con- spiracy of the Soldiers against the General, CHAP. VII.— The Copiapins defeat a Body * Spa- niards; Successful Stratagem employed by the Quillo- tanes; Valdivia receives Reinforcements from Peru; He founds the. City of Coquimbo, which is destroyed by the Natives; The Promaucians form an Alliance with the Spaniards j Foundation of the City of Con- ception, - BOOK II. CHAP. I.— Local Situation, Character, Dress, and Dwel- lings, of the Araucanians, - CHAP. II. — Division of the Araucanian State ; Its poli- ti cal Form and civil Institutions, 28 36 U 53 69 * CONTENTS. CHAP. Ill—Military System of the Araueanians ; Their "" Arms and Mode of making War, - . fo CHAP. IV.— Division of the Spoil ; Sacrifice after War ; Congress of Peace, - - - > 70 CHAP. V.— System of Religion and Funeral Ceremonies, 84 CHAP. VI.— Division of Time; Astronomical Ideas; Measures, - p. CHAP. VII.— Rhetoric : Poetry ; Medical Skill ; Com- merce of the Araueanians, - - - „■' 10i CHAP. VIII.— Pride of the Araueanians ; Kindness and ; Charity towards each other; Mode of Salutation; Proper Names, - > _ „ 110 CHAP. IX.— Matrimony and Domestic Employments, 115 CHAP. X.— Food; Music and other Diversions, 121 BOOK III. CHAP. 1.— The Araueanians, under the conduct of Ail- Javalu, and afterwards of Lincoyan, attack the Spa- niards ; Valdivia makes Incursions into their Territory and founds therein the Cities of Imperial, Villarica, Valdivia, and Angol, with several other Places, - 129 CHAP. II.— Canpolican appointed Toqui; He attacks the Forts of Arauco and of Tucapei ; The Spanish Army entirely defeated, and Valdivia slain, - 140 CHAP. III.— The Spaniards abandon Puren, Angol, and Villarica; Caupolican lays Siege to Imperial and Val- divia; Lautaro defeats the Spanish Army in Mariguenu, and destroys Conception, . . . 151 CHAP. IV.— Villagran raises the Sieges of Imperial and Valdivia ; The Small Pox breaks out among the Arau- eanians; Conception having been rebuilt, Lautaro re* CONTENTS. Kl J All*. turns and destroys it ; He marches against St. Jago, snd is killed, - ]£g CHAP. V. — Don Garcia de Mendoza arrives at Chili, with a Reinforcement of troops; His Expedition against Caupolican, - - - - 170 CHAP. IV.— Bon Garcia orders twelve Ulmenes to be hanged ; He founds the City of Canete ; Caupolican, attempting to surprise it, is defeated, and his Army en- tirely dispersed, - - - , X81 CHAP. VII. — Expedition of Don Garcia to the Archipe- lago of Chiloe; Foundation of Osorno ; Caupolican taken and impaled - 187 CHAP. VIII. — Successes of Caupolican the Second ; Siege of Imperial; Battle of Quipeo fatal to the Araucanians; Death of Caupolican; Termination of the Government of Don Garcia, - « 194 BOOK IV. CHAP. I. — The Toqui Antiguenu recommences the War ; His Successes against Francis Villagran, the Go- vernor ; Destruction of Canete ; Sieges of Arauco and Conception; Battle of the Bio -bio, - - 203 CHAP. II.— Paillataru elected Toqui; Government of Roderigo de Quiroga ; Conquest of the Archipelago of Chiloe; Description of the Inhabitants, - 212 CHAP. III. — Establishment of the Court of Roval Au- dience ; Government of Dou Melchor Bravo de Sara- via; Military Operations of Paillataru and his Suc- cessor Paynenancu ; Suppression of the Court of Au- dience ; Second Government of Quiroga ; Foundation of Chilian ; Some Account of the Pehuenches, - 218 CH P. IV.— Government of the Marquis de Villaher- mosa ; His Successes against Paynenancu ; Capture and *ii CONTENTS. Death of that General ; Enterprises of the Toqui Cay- aucura, and his Son Nangoniel ; Landing of the Eng- lish in Chili ; Operations of the Toqui Cadeguala, 229 CHAP. V.— The Toqui Guanoalca takes the Forts of Puren, Trinidad, and Spirito Santo ; Exploits of the Heroine Jauequeo ; Battles of Mariguenu and Tucapel 239 CHAP. VI.— The Toqui Paillamachu kills Loyola the Governor, and destroys all the Spanish Settlements in Araucania, - - - . 249 CHAP. VII.— Second unfortunate Government of Garcia Ramon ; Restoration of the Court of Royal Audience ; Ineffectual Negotiation for Peace, - - 262 CHAP. VIII.— Daring Enterprises of theToquis Lientur and Putapichion, - 272 CHAP. IX.— Continuation of the War -} Third Expedi- tion of the Dutch against Chili ; Peace concluded with the Araucanians; Its short Duration ; Exploits of the Toqui Clentaru ; Series of Spanish Governors, to the Year 1720, - - 335 CHAP. X.— A brief Account of the Wars of the Toquis Vilumilla and Curignancu ; Spanish Governors, to the Year 1787, - 297 307 331 CHAP. XL— Present State of Chili, An Essay on the Chilian Language, APPENDIX. No. I.— Account of the Archipelago of Chiloe, extracted chiefly from the Descripcion Historial of that Province, by P. F. Pedro Gonzalez de Agueros. — Madrid, 1791, - - - - - - 367 APPENDIX. No. II.— Account of the Native Tribes who inhabit the Southern Extremity of South America, ex- tracted chiefly from Falkner's Description of Patagonia, 375 THE CIVIL HISTORY OF CHILI. BOOK I. CHAPTER I* Of the Origin, Appearance, and Language of the Chilians. THE origin of the primitive inhabitants of Chili, like that of the other American nations, is involved in impenetrable obscurity; nor have they any records, or monuments of antiquity, that can serve to elucidate so interesting an inquiry. Upon the arrival of the Spaniards they were entirely unacquainted with the art of writing, and their traditionary accounts are so crude and imperfect, that they afford not the least degree of rational information to the inquisitive mind. Many of the inhabitants suppose that they are indigenous to the country, while others derive their origin from a foreign stock, and at vox,, ii, one time say that their ancestors came from the north, and at another time, from the west. It is a general opinion that America was settled from the north-eastern part of Asia, from the supposed easy communication between them, in consequence of the vicinity of these countries. But the opinion entertained by the Chilians, that their country was peopled from the west, is not so extravagant as at first sight it may appear. The discoveries of the English navigators in the South Sea have ascertained that between America and the southern point of Asia there is a chain of innumerable islands, the probable remains of some vast tract of land which, in that quarter, once united the two continents, and rendered the communication between Asia and the opposite shore of America easy. From whence it is very- possible that, while North America has been peopled from the north-west, the south has re- ceived its inhabitants from the southern parts of Asia, the natives of this part of the new world being of a mild character, much resembling that of the southern Asiatics, and little tinctured with the ferocity of the Tartars. Like the lan- guages of the Oriental Indians, theirs is also harmonious, and abounds in vowels. The in- fluence of climate may undoubtedly affect lan- guage so far as to modify it, but can never produce a complete change in its primitive struc- ture. The Chilians call their first progenitors Pegni Epatun, which signifies the brothers Epatun, but of these patriarchs nothing but the name is known. They also call them glyce, primitive men, or men from the beginning, and in their assemblies invoke them, together with their deities, crying out with a loud voice, Pom, pum,^ pum, mari, mari, Epunamun, Amimalguen, Pent Epatum. The signification of the three first words is uncertain, and they might be considered as interjections, did not the word pum, by which the Chinese call the first created man, or the one saved from the waters, induce a suspicion, from its similarity, that these have a similar signifi- cation. The lamas, or priests of Thibet, from the accounts of the natives of Indostan, are ac- customed to repeat on their rosaries, the syllables horn, ha, hum, or om, am, urn, which in some measure corresponds with what we have men- tioned of the Chilians. That Chili was originally peopled by one nation appears probable, as all the aborigines in- habiting it, however independent of each other, speak the same language, and have a similar ap1 pearance. Those that dwell in the plains are of good stature, but those that live in the valleys of the Andes, generally surpass the usual height of man. The purer air which they respire, and the continual exercise to which they are accus tomed among their mountains, may perhaps be i2 the cause of this difference, by imparting greater vigour to their frames. The features of both are regular, and neither of them have ever dis- covered that capricious whim, so common to savages of both the old and new world, of at- tempting to improve nature by disfiguring their faces, with a view of rendering themselves more beautiful or more formidable. Of course, M. Buffon has been led into an error in asserting, in his treatise on man, that the Chilians are accus- tomed to enlarge their ears. Their complexion, like that of the other Ame- rican nations, is of a reddish brown, but it is of a clearer hue, and readily changes to white. A tribe who dwell in the province of Baroa are of a clear white and red, without any intermixture of the copper colour. As they differ in no other respect from the other Chilians, this variety may be owing to some peculiar influence of their climate, or to the greater degree of civilization which they possess ; it is, however, attributed by the Spanish writers to the prisoners of that nation, who were confined in this province during the unfortunate war in the sixteenth cen- tury. But as the Spanish prisoners were equally distributed among the other provinces of their conquerors, none of whose inhabitants are white, this opinion would seem to be unfounded. Be- sides, as the first Spaniards who came to Chili were all from the southern provinces of Spain, where the ruddy complexion is rare, their pos- terity would not have exhibited so great a dif- ference. On examining the harmony and richness of their language, we are naturally led to conclude that the Chilians must have, in former times, possessed a much greater degree of civilization than at present ; or, at least, that they are the remains of a great and illustrious nation, ruined by some of those physical or moral revolutions so common to our globe. The improvement and perfection of language constantly follow the steps of civilization ; nor can it be easily con- ceived how a nation that has never emerged from a savage state, that has neither been po- lished by laws, by commerce, nor by arts, can possess an elegant, expressive, and copious dia- lect. The number of words in a language pre- supposes a correspondent number of ideas in the persons Who speak it, and these among a rude people are, and, necessarily must be, very limited. So copious is the Chilian language, that, in the opinion of those well acquainted with ^it, a complete dictionary thereof would require more than one large volume ; for, besides the radical words, which are very numerous, so great is the use of compounds, that, it may almost be said, in this consists the very genius qf the language. Each verb, either derivatively or conjunctively, becomes the root of numerous other verbs and b3 6 nouns, as well adjectives as substantives, which in their turn re-produce others that are second- ary, modifying themselves in a hundred different ways. Nor is there anj part of speech, from which an appropriate verb cannot be formed by the ad- dition of a final n. Even from the most simple particles various verbs are derived, that give great precision and strength to conversation. But what is truly surprising in this language is that it contains no irregular verb or noun. Every thing in it may be said to be regulated with a geometrical precision, and displavs much art with great simplicity, and a connection so well ordered and unvarying in its grammatical rules, which always make the subsequent depend upon its antecedent, that the theory of the lan- guage is easy, and may be readily learned in a few days. This close analogy and regularity, may at a slight view induce an opinion little favourable to the capacity of those who formed or polished this dialect, as the original languages, it is well known, were regular in their rude and primitive state. But a very different conclusion will be drawn by those who examine its structure, and attend to the extent and complexity of ideas ne- cessary to have formed it, and to have modified the words in so many different wavs, Mithout embarrassing the particular rules. The same language also abounds with harmo- nious and sonorous syllables, which give it much sweetness and variety ; this is, however, injured by the frequent recurrence of the u, a defect from which the Latin is by no means exempt. In this respect the latter has, however, been fortu- nately corrected in its derivatives, particular y the Italian, which has studied to avoid, especially in the finals, the unpleasant sound resulting from the use of that vowel. The Chilian differs from every other American language, not less in its words than its con- struction, with the exception of from eighteen to twenty of Peruvian origin, which, con- sidering the contiguity of the two countries, is not to be wondered at. But what may appear much more singular is, that it contains words apparently of Greek and Latin derivation, and of a similar signification in both languages ;* I am inclined, however, to think this merely an accidental resemblance. * If this is not, as our author supposes, merely a caspalre- semllance of a few words, which frequently occurs in Ian* auages radically different, it certainly affords much ground for curious speculation; and we may, perhaps, I e led to con- sider the tradition of a Phenician or Carthaginian colony m America, as not altogether so destitute of probability, especially as the language of the Chilians, so different from that of any Other of tie American tribes, appears to indicate a different origin.— Amer. Trans. b4 a GHAP. II. Conquest of the Peruvians in Chili. The history of the Chilians does not precede the middle of the fifteenth century of our era ; be- fore that period, for want of records, it is lost in the obscurity of time. The first accounts of them are contained in the Peruvian annals; that nation/ as they were more civilized, being more careful to preserve the memory of remarkable events. About that time the Peruvians had extended their dominion from the equator to the tropic of Capricorn. Chili, bordering upon that tropic, was too important an acquisition not to attract the ambitious views of those conquerors. This country, which extends for 1260 miles upon the Pacific Ocean, enjoys a delightful and salutary climate. The vast chain of the Cordilleras bor- dering it upon the east, supplies it with an abundance of rivers, which increase its natural fertility. The face of the country, which is mountainous towards the sea, and level near the Andes, is well suited to every kind of vegetable production, and abounds with mines of gold, silver, and other useful metals. 9 Favoured by the pleasantness of the country and salubrity of the climate, the population at this period may be readily imagined to have been very numerous. The inhabitants were divided into fifteen tribes, or communities, independent of each other, but subject to certain chiefs, called Ulmenes. These tribes, beginning at the north and proceeding to the south, were called Copiapins, Coquimbanes, Quillotanes, Mapochi- nians, Promaucians, Cures, Cauques, Pencones, Araucanians, Cunches, Chilotes, Chiquilanians, Pehuenches, Puelches, and Huilliches. The Inca -Yupanqui, who reigned in Peru about the year U50, being informed of the na- tural advantages possessed by Chili, resolved to attempt the conquest of it. With this intent he marched with a powerful army to the frontiers of that kingdom ; but, either through appre- hension of his personal safety, or with the view of being in a more favourable situation to furnish the means of effecting his designs, he established himself with his court in the neighbouring pro- vince of Atracama, and entrusted the command of the expedition to Sinchiruca, a prince of the blood royal. Preceded, according to the specious custom of the Peruvians, by several ambassadors, and fol- lowed by a large body of troops, this general subjected to the Peruvian government, more by persuasion than by force, the Copiapins, Coquim- 10 banes, Quillotanes, and Mapochinians. After this, having passed the river Rape!, he proceeded to attack the Promaucians, who could not be in- duced by the persuasions of the ambassadors to submit themselves. This nation, whose name signifies the free dancers, from their being much attached to that diversion, inhabited the delight- ful country lying between the rivers Rapel and Mauie, and were distinguished from all the other tribes by their fondness for every species of amusement. The love of pleasure had not, however, rendered them effeminate: they op- posed the Peruvian army with the most heroic valour, and entirely defeated it in a battle, which, according to Garcilasso the historian, was con- tinued for three days in succession, in conse- quence of the continued reinforcements of both parties. The Inca, on learning the ill success of his. arms, and the invincible valour of the Promau- cians, gave orders, that in future the river Rapel should serve as the boundary of his do- minion on that side. Garcilasso says, that it was the river Maule, but it is by no means pro- bable, that the conquerors should be compre- hended within the territories of the vanquished. In fact, not far from the river Cachapoal, which, together with the Tinguiririca, forms the Rapel, are still to be seen upon a gieep hill, the remains of a fort of Peruvian construction, which was 11 undoubtedly built to protect that part of the frontier against the attacks of the unconquered Promaucians. Thus Chili became divided into two parts, the one free, and the other subject to foreign domi- nation. The tribes, who had so readily sub- mitted to the Peruvians, were subjected to an annual tribute in gold, an imposition which they had never before experienced. But the conquer- ors, whether they dared not hazard tho attempt^ or were not able to effect it, never introduced their form of government into these provinces. Of course, the subjected Chilians as well as the free, preserved until the arrival of the Spaniards,, their original manners, which were by no means so rude as many are led to imagine. 1% CHAP. Ill, State of Chili before the arrival of the Spaniards. Its agriculture and aliment. Man, in his progress to the perfection of civil life, passes in succession through four important states or periods. From a hunter he becomes a shepherd, next a husbandman, and at length a merchant, the period which forms the highest degree of social civilization. The Chilians, when they were first known to the Spaniards, had attained the third state; they were no longer hunters but agriculturists. Reasoning from ge- neral principles, Dr. Robertson has therefore been led into an error in placing them in the class of hunters, an occupation which they pro- bably never pursued, except on their first esta- blishment. Becoming soon weary of the fa- tiguing exercise of the chace, in a country Where game is not very abundant, and having huf few domestic animals, they began at an early period to attend to the cultivation of such nu- tritious plants, as necessity or accident had made known to them. Thus were they induced from the circumstances of their situation, and not 13 from choice, to pass rapidly to the third period of social life. These plants, which have heen described in the first part of this work, were the maize, the magu, the guegen, the iuca, the quitwa, pulse of various kinds, the potatoe, the oxalis tuherosa, the cemmon and the yellow pumkin or gourd, the Guinea pepper, the madi, and the great strawberry. To these provisions of the vege- table kind, which are far from despicable, may he added the little rabbit, the Chiliheuque, or Araucanian camel, whose flesh furnished excel- lent food, and whose wool, clothing for these people. If tradition may be credited, they had also the hog and the domestic fowl. Their do- minion over the tribe of animals was not ex- tended beyond these, although they might as readily have domesticated the guanaco, a very useful animal, thepudu, a species of wild goat, and various birds with which the country abounds. However, with these productions, which re- quired but a very moderate degree of industry, they subsisted comfortably, and even with a degree of abundance, considering the few things which their situation rendered necessary. To this circumstance is owing, that the Spa- niards, who under the command of Almagro in- vaded Chili, found upon their entering its valley an abundance of provisions to recruit themselves 4 14 after the hunger which they had endured m their imprudent march through the desarts bor- dering upon Peru. Subsistence, the source of population, being thus secured, the country, as before remarked, became rapidly peopled under the influence of so mild a climate ; whence it appears, that the first writers who treated of Chili cannot have greatly exaggerated in saying that the Spaniards found it filled with inhabitants. It is a fact that there was bujfc one language spoken through- out the country ; a proof that these tribes were in the habit of intercourse with each other, and were not isolated, or separated by vast desarts, or by immense lakes or forests, which is the case in many other parts of America, but which were at that time in Chili, as they are now, of incon- siderable extent. It would seem that agriculture must have made no inconsiderable progress among a people who possessed, as did the Chilians, a great variety of the above-mentioned alimentary plants, all distinguished by their peculiar names, a circum- stance that could not have occurred except in a state of extensive and varied cultivation. They had also in many parts of the country aqueducts for watering their fields, which were constructed with much skill. Among these, the canal, which for the space of many miles borders the rough skirts of the mountains in the vicinity of the ca- 15 pital and waters the lands to the northward of that city, is particularly remarkable for its extent and solidity. They were likewise ac- quainted with the use of the manures, called by them vunalti, though from the great fertility of the soil but little attention was paid to them. Being in want of animals of strength to till the ground, they were accustomed to turn it up with a spade made of hard wood, forcing it into the earth with their breasts ; but as this process was very slow and fatiguing, it is surprising that they had not discovered some other mode more expeditious and less laborious. They at present make use of a simple kind of plough, called clietague, made of the limb of a tree curved at one end, in which is inserted a share formed of the same material, with a handle to guide it. Whether this rude instrument of agriculture, which appears to be a model of the first plough ever used, is one of their own invention, or was taught them by the Spaniards, is uncertain; from its extreme simplicity I should, however, be strongly induced to doubt the latter. Ad- miral Spilsberg observes, that the inhabitants of Mocha, an island in the Araucanian Sea, where the Spaniards have never had a settlement, make ' use of this plough, drawn by two chilihueques, to cultivate their lands ; and Fathers Bry, who refer to this fact, add, that the Chilians, with the assistance of these animals, tilled their 16 grounds before they received cattle from Europe, However this may be, it is certain that this species of camel was employed antecedent to that period as beasts of burden, and the transition from carriage to the draught is not difficult. Man merely requires to become acquainted with the utility of any object, to induce him to apply it by degrees to other advantageous pur- poses. It is a generally received opinion that grain, was eaten raw by the first men who employed it as an article of food. But this aliment being of an insipid taste, and diificult'of mastication, they began to parch or roast it; the grain thus cooked easily pulverizing in the hands, gave them the first idea of meal, which they gradually learned to prepare in the form of gruel, cakes, and finally of bread. At the period of which we treat, the Chilians ate their grain cooked ; this was done either by boiling it in earthen pots adapted to the purpose, or roasting it in hot sand, an ope- ration which rendered it lighter and less viscous. But not satisfied with preparing it in this mode, which has always been the most usual among nations emerging from the savage state, they proceeded to make of it two distinct kinds of meal, the parched, to which they gave the name of murque, and the raw, which they called rugo. With the first they made gruels, and a kind of beverage which they at present use for breakfast 17 instead of chocolate ; from the second tliey pre- pared cakes, and a bread called by them couque, which they baked in holes formed like ovens, excavated in the sides of the mountains and in the banks of the rivers, a great number of which are still to be seen. Their invention of a kind of sieve, called chignigue, for separating the bran from the flour, affords matter of surprise ; that they employed leaven is, however, still more surprising, as such a discovery can only be made gradually, and is the fruit of reasoning or obser- vation, unless they were led to it by some for- tunate accident, which most probably was the case when they first began to make use of bread. From the above-mentioned grains, and the berries of several trees, they obtained nine or ten kinds of spiritous liquor, which they fer- mented and kept in earthen jars, as was the custom with the Greeks and Romans. This re- finement of domestic economy, though not origi- nating from actual necessity, appears to be natural to man, in whatever situation he is found ; more especially when he is brought to live in society with his fellow men. The dis- covery of fermented liquors soon follows that of aliment ; and it is reasonable to believe that the use of such beverages is of high antiquity among the Chilians, more especially as their country- abounds in materials for making them. VOL. II. c 18 CHAP. IV. Political Establishments, Government, and Arts, Agriculture is the vital principle of society and of the arts. Scarce! j does a wandering fa- mily, either from inclination or necessity, begin to cultivate a piece of ground, when it establishes Itself upon it from a natural attachment, and, no longer relishing a wandering and solitary life, seeks the society of its fellows, whose succours it then begins to find necessary for its welfare. The Chilians, having adopted that settled mode of life indispensable to an agricultural people, collected themselves into families, more or less numerous, in those districts that were best suited to their occupation, where they established them- selves in large villages, called cava, a name which they at present give to the Spanish cities, or in small ones, which they denominated lov. But these accidental collections had not the form of the present European settlements ; they consisted only of a number of huts, irregularly dispersed within sight of each other, precisely in 19 the manner of the German settlements in the time of Charlemagne. Some of these villages exist even at present in several parts of Spanish Chili, of which the most considerable are Larapa, in the province of Saint J ago, and Lora, in that of Maule. But as no civil establishment can exist without some form of government, they had in each vil- lage or hamlet a chief called Ulmen, who in cer- tain points was subject to the supreme ruler of the tribe, who was known by the same name. The succession of all these chiefs was established by hereditary right, a custom that proves the antiquity of these political assemblages. Among other savage nations, strength, skill in hunting, or martial prowess, were the first steps to au- thority, and afterwards procured the regal sway for those who were invested with command- But with'the Chilians, on the contrary, it would seem as if wealth had been the means of exalting the ruling families to the rank which they oc- cupy, since the word almen, unless taken m a metaphorical sense, signifies a rich man. The authority of these chiefs was probably very limited, that is, merely directive, and not coer- cive, as that of the rulers of all barbarous nations has been, when despotism, favoured by propitious circumstances, has not effaced the ideas of ab- solute independence, which are in a manner innate among savages, as has been the case with the c2 I 20 ill I ill greater part of the nations of Asia and of Africa, From hence it will not be necessary to investigate the laws of these small societies, which were probably governed only by usages and customs that had been introduced through motives of necessity or convenience. The right of private property was fully esta- blished among the Chilians. Each was absolute master of the field that he cultivated, and of the product of his industry, which he could transmit to his children by hereditary succession. This fundamental principle gave rise to the first arts, which the wants of nature and their political constitution required. They built their houses of a quadrangular form, and covered the roof with rushes, the walls were made of wood plais- tered with clay, and sometimes of brick, called by them tlca ; the use of which they doubtless learned from the Peruvians, among whom it was known by the same name. From the wool of the Chilihueque, they ma- nufactured cloths for their garments : for this they made use of the spindle and distaff, and two kinds of looms ; the first, called guregue, is not very unlike that used in Europe; the other is vertical, from whence it derives its name uthal- gue, from the verb utlialen, which signifies to stand upright. Their language contains words appropriate to every part of these looms, and 21 whatever relates to the manufacture of wool. They had likewise a kind of needle to sew their garments, as is obvious from the verb nuduven, to sew ; but of what substance it was made t am unable to determine, Embroidery, to which they gave the name of dumican, was also known to them. From these arts of the first necessity, they proceeded to those of a secondary kind, or such as were required by convenience. With the ex- cellent clay of their country, they made pots, plates, cups, and even large jars to hold their fermented liquors. These vessels they baked in certain ovens or holes, made in the declivity of hills. They also made use of a mineral earth called colo, for varnishing their vessels. It is very certain that the art of pottery is of great antiquity in Chili, as on opening a large heap of stones in the mountains of Arauco, an urn of ex- traordinary size was discovered at the bottom. For their vessels they not only made use of earth, but of hard wood, and even of marble, and vases of the latter have been sometimes dis- covered that were polished with the greatest perfection. From the earth they extracted gold, silver, copper, tin, and lead ; and, after purifying, em- ployed these metals in a variety of useful and curious works, particularly the bell-metal copper, which is very hard ; of this they made axes,, c3 22 s hatchets, and other edged tools, but in small quantities, as they are rarely to be met with in their sepulchres ; where, on the contrary, hatchets made of a species of basalt are very frequently found. It is remarkable, that iron, universally supposed to have been unknown to the American nations, has a particular name in the Chilian language. It is called panilgue, and the weapons made of it cliiuquel, in distinction from those made of other materials, which are comprehended under the general name of rtulin. The smith was called ruthave, from the verb ruihan, which signifies to work in iron. These circumstances give rise to a suspicion that they not only were acquainted with this valuable metal, but that they also made use of it. But, considering the silence of the first writers upon America on this subject, notwithstanding the inferences that may be drawn from hence, this point must always remain undecided, unless pieces of iron should be found of incontestible antiquity. They had also discovered the method of making salt upon the sea shore, and extracted fossil salt from several mountains that abounded in that production. These they distinguished by different names, calling the first chiadi, and the other lilcochiadi, that is, salt of the water of rocks. They procured dyes of all colours for their clothes, not only from the juice of plants, 23 but also from mineral earths, and had discovered the art of fixing them by means of the polcura, a luminous stone of an astringent qualify. In- stead of soap, the composition of which they had not discovered, although acquainted with lie, they employed the bark of the quillai, which is an excellent substitute. From the seeds of the madi, they obtained an oil which is very good to eat and to burn, though I am ignorant whether they ever applied it to the latter purpose. Their language contains words discriminative of several kinds of baskets and mats, which they manufactured from various vegetables. The plant called gnoccliia furnishes them with thread for their ropes and fishing nets, of which they have three or four kinds. They also make use of baskets and hooks for taking fish, but of what substance the latter are made I am not able to determine. The inhabitants of the sea-coast make use of pirogues of different sizes, and floats made of wood, or of seal skins sewed to- gether and inflated with air. Although hunting was not a principal occu- pation with these people, yet, for amusement, or with the view of increasing their stock of pro- vision, they were accustomed to take such wild animals as are found in their country, particu- larly birds, of which there are great quantities. For this purpose they made use of the arrow, of the sling, and of the laque or noose, already € 4 Hi 24 described in the preceding part of this work, and of several kinds of snares constructed with much ingenuity, known bj the general appella- tion of guaches. It is a singular fact, that they employed the same method of taking wild ducks, m their lakes and rivers, as that made use of by the Chinese, covering their heads with perfo- rated gourds, and letting themselves glide gently down among them. These minutiae would per- haps be scarcely worth attending to, in an ac- count of the manners and discoveries of a people well known for their advancement in the arts of civilization, but in the history of a remote and unknown nation, considered as savage, they be- come important and even necessary to form a correct opinion of the degree of their progress in society. With means of subsistence, sufficient to have procured them still greater conveniences of living, it would seem that the Chilians ought to have progressed with rapid steps towards the per- fection of civil society. But from a species of inertia, natural to man, nations often remain for a long time stationary, even when circumstances appear favourable to their improvement. The transition from a savage to a social life is not so easy as at first view may be imagined, and the history of all civilized nations may be adduced in proof of this proposition. The Chilians were also isolated, and had none 35 of those commercial connections with foreigners which are the only means of polishing a people. The neighbouring nations were in a state of still greater rudeness than themselves, except the Peruvians, a connection with whom, from their ambition of dominion they would more studiously avoid than cherish They learned, however, some things from them during the time that they were in possession of the northern provinces, at which period they had attained that middle point between the savage and civilized state, known by the name of barbarism. Notwith- standing these unfavourable circumstances, the variety of their occupations, which multiplied the objects of their attention, gradually enlarged the sphere of their ideas. They had progressed so far in this respect, as to invent the numbers requisite to express any quantity, marl signifying with them ten, pataca a hundred, and guar mica a thousand. Even the Romans possessed no simple numerical terms of greater value, and indeed calculation may be carried to any extent by a combination of these principal decimals. To preserve the memory of their transactions, they made use, as other nations have done, of the pron, called by the Peruvians quippo, which was a skein of thread of several colours with a number of knots. The subject treated of was indicated by the colours, and the knots designated 26 the number or quantity. This is all the use that I have been able to discover in such a Register, in which some authors have pretended to find a* substitute for the art of writing. This admirable art was unknown to the Chilians ; for although the word Chilean, to write, is met with in their language, it was originally nothing more than a synonym of guirin, which signifies to sketch or paint. Of their skill in this latter art, I am ignorant ; but if we may form an opinion from representations of men that are cut upon certain rocks, we must conclude that they were entirely unacquainted with it, as nothing coarser or more disproportioned can be imagined. Far different was the progress which they made in the sciences of physic and astronomy, it was indeed wonderful ; but an account of these, of their religion, their music and military skill' I shall reserve till I treat of the Araucanians! who still continue the faithful depositories of all * The quipos is still used by shepherds in Peru, who keep account by it of the number of their flocks, and of the day and hour when the ewe yeaned, or the lamb was lost. An Italian author, after the publication of M. Grafigny's novel, wrote a large quarto volume concerning the quipos. He describes every thing relating to quipography, says the Limas-Essarist, as confidently as if he had been Quipo-Caniayn to the Incas ; but the misfortune is, that all his conjectures are erroneous. — E. E. Mer curio Peruano, Marzo 17, i?qi, T.l.f. 206. Ti the science and ancient customs of the Chilians. Their lanauag-e contains also words indicating a knowledge of several other arts, which I de- cline mentioning, as there are no guides of suf- ficient accuracy to conduct our researches into a subject so important, and at the same time so doubtful. The first Europeans who visited these countries, attracted by other objects of far less interest, thought little or nothing of those that merit the attention of every observing mind, on visiting an unknown people. From thence it has happened that their accounts, for the most part, furnish us only with vague and confused ideas, from whence we can draw nothing but conjectures. The Chilians, however, remained in much the same state of society as I have de- scribed, until an unexpected revolution com- pelled them, in a great measure, to adopt other customs and other laws. 28 CHAP. V. First Expedition of the Spaniards to Chili. Francis Pizarro and Diego Aluiagro having put to death the Inca Atahualpa, had subjected the empire of Peru to the dominion of Spain. Pizarro, desirous of enjoying without a rival this important conquest, made at their mutual expense, persuaded his companion to undertake the reduction of Chili, celebrated for its riches throughout all those countries. Almagro, filled with Sanguine expectations of booty, began his march for that territory in the end of the year 1535, with an army composed of 570 Spaniards and 15,000 Peruvians, under the command of Taullu, the brother of the Inca Manco, the nominal Emperor of Peru, who had succeeded the unfortunate Atahualpa. Two roads lead from Peru to Chili ; one is by the sea-coast, and is destitute of water and pro- vision; the other, for a distance of 120 miles, passes over the immense mountains of the Andes. This last Almagro took, for no other reason but because it was the shortest. His army, after having been exposed to infinite fatigue, and many conflicts with the adjoining savages, reached the Cordilleras just at the commence- ment of winter, destitute of provisions, and but ill supplied with clothing. In this season the snow falls almost continually, and completely covers the few paths that are passable in summer. Notwithstanding, the soldiers, encouraged by their general, who had no idea of the danger of the passage, advanced with much toil to the top of those rugged heights. But victims to the severity of the weather, 150 Spaniards there perished, with 10,000 Peruvians, who, being accustomed to the warmth of the torrid zone, were less able to endure the rigours of the frost. The historians who have given an account of this unfortunate expedition concur in saying, that of all this army not one would have escaped with life, had not Almagro, resolutely pushing forward with a few horse, sent them timely suc- cours and provisions, which were found in abundance in Copiapo. Those of the most robust constitutions, who were able to resist the inclemency of the season, by this unexpected aid were enabled to extricate themselves from the snow, and at length reached the plains of that province, which is the first in Chili, where through respect for the Peruvians they were well received and entertained by the inhabitants. The Inca Paullu, who was well acquainted III so with the object of the expedition, thought that nothing would contribute more to raise the spirits of his dejected friends, than by letting them know the importance of their conquest. With this intent, he obliged the peasants to de- liver up to him all the gold in their possession, and having by this means collected 500,000 ducats, he presented them to Almagro. The Spaniard was so highly pleased, that" he distri- buted the whole among his soldiers, to whom he also remitted the debts they owed him for the immense sums of money that he had advanced for the preparation of the enterprize. Being persuaded that in a short time he should have all the gold of the country at his disposal, he sought by this display of liberality to maintain the reputation of being generous, which he had ac- quired in Peru by his profuse lavishment of the treasures of its sovereigns. While Almagro remained in Copiapo, he dis- covered that the reigning Ulmen had usurped the government in prejudice of his nephew and ward, who, through fear of his uncle, had fled to the woods. Pretending to be irritated at this act of injustice, he caused the guilty chief to be arrested, and calling before him the lawful heir, reinstated him in the government with the uni- versal applause of his subjects, who attributed this conduct entirely to motives of justice., and a wish to redress the injured. % 31 The Spaniards, having recovered from their fatigues through the hospitable assistance of the Copiapins, and reinforced by a number of re- cruits whom Rodrigo Organez had brought from Peru, commenced their march for the southern provinces, filled with the most flattering hopes, increased by the beautiful appearance of the country, and the numerous villages that appeared upon all sides. The natives crowded round them on their march, as well to examine them nearer, as to present them with such things as they thought would prove agreeable to a people, who appeared to them of a character far superior to that of other men. In the meantime, two soldiers having sepa- rated from the army, proceeded to Guasco, where they were at first well received, but were afterwards put to death by the inhabitants, in consequence, no doubt, of some acts of violence, which soldiers, freed from the control of their officers, are very apt to commit. This was the first European blood spilt in Chili, a country afterwards so copiously watered with it. On being informed of this unfortunate acci- dent, calculated to destroy the exalted opinion which he wished to inspire of his soldiers, Almagro, having proceeded to Coquimbo, or- dered the Ulmenof the district, called Marcando, his brother, and twenty of the principal inhabit- ants to be brought thither, all of whom, together 32 with the usurper of Copiapo, he delivered to the flames, without, according to Herrera, pre- tending to assign any reason for his conduct. This act of cruelty appeared to every one very extraordinary and unjust, since among those adventurers there were not wanting men of sen- sibility, and advocates for the rights of humanity. The greater part of the army openly disapproved of the severity of their general, the aspect of whose affairs from this time forward became gradually worse and worse. About this period, 1537, Almagro received a considerable reinforcement of recruits under Juan de Rada, accompanied with royal letters patent, appointing him governor of two hundred leagues of territory, situated to the southward of the government granted to Francis Pizarro. The friends whom he had left in Peru, taking advantage of this opportunity, urged him by private letters to return, in order to take pos- session of Cuzco, which they assured him was within the limits of his jurisdiction. Notwith- standing this, inflated with his new conquest, lie pursued his march, passed the fatal Cacha- poal, and, regardless of the remonstrances of the Peruvians, advanced into the country of the Promaucians. At the first sight of the Spaniards, their horses, and the thundering arms of Europe, these valiant people were almost petrified with astonishment, 83 but soon recovering from the effects of surprise, they opposed with intrepidity their new enemies upon the shore of the Rio-claro. Almagro, despising their force, placed in the first line his Peruvian auxiliaries, increased by a number whom Panllu had drawn from the garrisons; but these, being soon routed, fell back in con- fusion upon the rear. The Spaniards, who ex- pected to have been merely spectators of the battle, saw themselves compelled to sustain the vigorous attack of the enemy, and advancing with their horse, began a furious battle, which continued with great loss upon either side, till night separated the combatants. Although the Promaucians had been very roughly handled, they lost not their courage, but encamped in sight of the enemy, determined to renew the attack the next morning. The Spaniards, however, though by the custom of Europe they considered themselves as victors, having kept possession of the field, were very differently inclined. Having been accustomed to subdue immense provinces with little or no resistance, they became disgusted with an enter- prise, which could not be effected without great fatigue and the loss of much blood, since, in*its prosecution they must contend with a bold and independent nation, by Avhom they were not believed to be immortal. Thus all, by vol. ii. b 34 common consent resolved to abandon this ex- pedition ; but they were of various opinions respecting- their retreat, some being desirous of returning to Peru, while others wished to form a settlement in the northern provinces, where fhey had been received with such hospitality. The first opinion was supported by Almagro, whose mind began to be impressed by the sug- gestions contained in the letters of his friends. He represented to his soldiers the dangers to which a settlement would be exposed in so war- like a country, and persuaded them to follow him to Cuzco, where he hoped to establish himself either by favour or force. His fatal experience of the mountain road, determined him to take that of the sea-coast, by which he reconducted his troops with very little loss, On his return to Peru in 1538, he took posses- sion by surprise of the ancient capital of that empire; and, after several ineffectual negocia- tions, fought a battle with the brother of Pizarro, by whom he was taken, tried and be- headed, as a disturber of the public peace. His army, having dispersed at their defeat, afterwards reassembled under the appellation of the soldiers of Chili, and excited new disturb- ances in Peru, already sufficiently agitated. Such was the fate of the first expedition against Chili, undertaken by the best body of 35 European troops that had as yet been collected in those parts. The thirst of riches was the moving spring of the expedition, and the* disap- pointment of their hopes of obtaining them, the eause of its failure. B % 36 CHAP. VI. The Spaniards return to Chili, under the com- mand of Pedro de Valdivia; St. J ago the capital founded ; Various encounters with the natives; Conspiracy of the soldiers against the general. Francis Pizarro having, by the death of his rival, obtained the absolute command of the Spanish possessions in South America, lost not sight of the conquest of Chili, which he con- ceived might, in any event, prove an important acquisition to him. Among the adventurers who had come to Peru were two officers, com- missioned by the court of Spain, under the titles of governor, to attempt this expedition. To the first, called Pedro Sanchez de Hoz, was com- mitted the conquest of the country as far as the river Maiile ; and to the other, Carraargo, the remainder to the Archipelago of Chiloe. Pi- zarro, jealous of these men, under frivolous pretexts refused to confirm the royal nomination, and appointed to this expedition his quarter- master, Pedro de Valdivia, a prudent and active 37 officer, who had gained experience in the Italian war, and, what was a still greater recommenda- tion, was attached to his party, directing him to take de Hoz.with him, who was probably more to be feared than his colleague, and to allow him every advantage in the partition of the lands. This officer having determined to establish a permanent settlement in the country, set out on his march in the year 1540, with 200 Spaniards, and a numerous body of Peruvian auxiliaries, accompanied by some monks, several women, and a great number of European quadrupeds, with every thing requisite for a new colony. He pursued the same route as Almagro, but in- structed by the misfortunes of his predecessor, he did not attempt to pass the Andes until mid- summer. He entered Chili without incurring any loss, but very different was the reception he experienced from the inhabitants of the northern provinces from that which Almagro had me with. Those people, informed of the fate of Peru, and freed from the submission they pro- fessed to owe the Inca, did not consider them- selves obliged to respect their invaders. They, of course, began to attack them upon all sides, with more valour than conduct. Like barbarians in general, incapable of making a common cause with each other, and for a long time accustomed to the yoke of servitude, they attacked them by hordes, or tribes, as they ad- vanced, without that steady firmness that cha- racterizes the valour of a free people. The Spaniards, however, notwithstanding the ill- combined opposition of the natives, traversed the provinces of Copiapo, Co, uimbo, Quil- lota, and Melipilla, and arrived much ha- rassed, but with little loss, at that of Mapocho, now called St. Jago. This province, which is more than six hundred miles distant from the confines of Peru, is one of the most fertile and pleasant in the kingdom. Its name signifies "the land of many people/ '■ and from the ac- counts of the first writers upon Chili, its popula- tion corresponded therewith, being extremely numerous. It lies upon the confines of the principal mountain of the Andes, and is 140 miles in circumference. It is watered by the rivers Maypo, Colina, Lampa, and Mapocho, which last divides it into two nearly equal parts, and after pursuing a subterraneous course for the space of five miles, again shows itself with increased copiousness, and discharges its waters into the Maypo. The mountains of Caren, which terminate it on the north, abound with veins of gold, and in that part of the Andes, which bounds it at the east, are found several rich mines of silver. Valdivia, who had endeavoured to penetrate as far as possible into the country, in order to lender it difficult for his soldiers to return to m Peru, determined to make a settlement in this province; which, from its natural advantages, and its remoteness, appeared to him more suitable than any other for the centre of his conquests. With this view, having selected a convenient situation on the left shore of the Mapocho, on the 24th of February 1541, he laid the founda- tions of the capital of the kingdom, to which, in honour of that apostle, he gave the name of St. Jago. In laying out the city he divided the ground into plats or squares,' each containing 4096 toises , a fourth of which he allowed to every citizen, a plan that has been pursued in the foundation of all the other cities. One of these plats, lying upon the great square, he destined for the cathedral and the bishop's palace, which he intended to build there, and the one opposite for that of the government. He likewise ap- pointed a magistracy, according to the forms of Spain, from such of his army as were the best qualified ; and to protect the settlement in case of an attack, he constructed a fort upon a hill in the centre of the city, which has since received the name of St. Lucia. Many have applauded the discernment of Val~ divia, in having made choice of this situation for the seat of the capital of the colony. But considering the wants of a great city, it would have been better placed fifteen miles farther to the south, upon the Maypo, a large river whicl\ *4 40 has a direct communication with the sea, and might easily be rendered navigable for ships of the largest size. This city, however, contains at present ( 1787) more than forty thousand inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in population, from its being the seat of government, and from its great com- merce supported by the luxury of the wealthy inhabitants. Meanwhile, the natives saw with a jealous eye this new establishment, and concerted measures, although late, for freeing themselves of these unwelcome intruders. Valdivia, having dis- covered their intentions in season, confined the chiefs of the conspiracy in the fortress, and sus- pecting some secret intelligence between them and the neighbouring Promaucians, repaired with sixty horse to the river Cachapoal to watch their movements. But this measure was unnecessary ; that fearless people had not the policy to think of uniting with their neighbours in order to secure themselves from the impending danger. The Mapochinians, taking advantage of the departure of the general, fell upon the colony with inconceivable fury, burned the half-built houses, and assailed the citadel, wherein the in- habitants had taken refuge, upon all sides. While they defended themselves valiantly, a woman, named Inez Suarez, animated with a spirit more cruel than courageous, seized an axe, 41 and beat out the brains of the captive chiefs* who had attempted to break their fetters and regain their liberty. The battle began at day break, and was con- tinued till night, while fresh assailants, with a firmness worthy of a better fate, constantly oc- cupied the places of those that were slain. In the meantime, the commander of the fort, Alonzo Monroy, found means during the confusion to dispatch a messenger to Valdivia, who returned immediately, and found the ditch filled with dead bodies, and the enemy, notwithstanding the loss they had sustained, preparing to recommence the combat ; but, joining the besieged, he ad- vanced in order of battle against their forces, which were posted on the shore of the Mapocho. There the battle was again renewed, and con- tested with equal valour, but with great disad- vantage on the part of the natives, who were far inferior to their enemies in arms and discipline, The musketry and the horse made a dreadful slaughter among men, who were armed only with bows and slings; but, obstinately con- tending with even their own impotence, they furiously rushed on to destruction until, wholly enfeebled, and having lost the flower of their youth, they fled dispersed over the plains. Yet, notwithstanding this defeat, and others of not less importance that they afterwards ex- perienced, they never ceased, for the space of six . -4S years, until tlieir utter ruin, to keep the Spaniards closely besieged, attacking them upon every oc- casion that offered, and cutting off their pro- visions in such a manner, that they were com* pelled to subsist upon unwholesome and loath- some viands, and on the little grain which they could raise beneath the cannon of the place. The fertile plains in the neighbourhood had become desert and uncultivated, as the inhabit- ants had destroyed their crops, and retired to the mountains. A mode of life so different from what they ex- pected, wearied and disgusted the soldiers, and they finally resolved to kill their general, whom they believed obstinately attached to his plans, and to return to Peru, where they hoped to enjoy more ease and tranquillity. This conspiracy having fortunately been discovered by Valdivia, he began by conciliating the least seditious, which he readily effected, for he possessed great prudence and address. As he had yet only the title of general, he assembled the magistracy of the city, and persuaded them to appoint him governor. Invested with this imposing, though less legitimate character, lie punished with death the authors of the conspiracy ; but perceiving that this exertion of a precarious authority could not be productive of a durable effect, he pru- dently applied himself to soothe these turbulent spirits, awl to divert their pinds from such dan. 43 gerous schemes, by painting to them in reducing colours the happy prospect that awaited them, Valdivia had often heard in Peru that the valley of Quillota abounded in mines of gold, and imagined that he might obtain from thence a sufficient quantity to satisfy his soldiers. In consequence, notwithstanding the difficulties with which he was surrounded, he sent thither a detachment of troops, with orders to super- intend the digging of this precious metal. The mine that was opened was so rich that its product surpassed their most sanguine hopes. Their present and past sufferings were all buried in oblivion, nor was there one among them who had the remotest wish of quitting the country, The governor, who was naturally enterprising* encouraged by this success, had a frigate built in the mouth of the river Chile, which traverses the valley, in order more readily to obtain suc^ cours from Peru, without which, he was fully Sensible, he could not succeed in accomplishing Jiis vast undertakings. 44 CHAP. VII. The Copiapins defeat a body of Spaniards; Suc- cessful stratagem employed by the Quillotanes ; Valdivia receives reinforcements from Peru; He founds the city of Coquimbo, which is destroyed by the natives; The Promaucians form an alliance with the Spaniards ; Founda- tion of the city of Conception. In the meantime/ 'as the state of affairs was urgent, Valdivia resolved to send to Peru bj land two of his captains, Alonzo Pvionroy and Pedro Miranda, with six companions, whose spurs, bits, and stirrups he directed to be made of gold, hoping to entice, try this proof of the opulence of the country, his fellow-citizens to come to his assistance. These messengers, al- though escorted by thirty men on horseback, who were ordered to accompany them to the borders of Chili, were attacked and defeated by a hundred archers of Copiapo, commanded by Coteo, an officer of the ulmen of that province. Of the whole band none escaped with life but the two officers^ Monroy and Miranda, who 45 were brought covered with wounds before the ulmen. Whilst that prince, who had resolved to put them to death as enemies of the country, was deliberating on the mode, the ulmena, or princess, his wife, moved with compassion for their situa- tion, interceded with her husband for their lives, and having obtained her request, unbound them with her own hands, tenderly dressed their wounds, and treated them like brothers. When they were fully recovered, she desired them to teach her son the art of riding, as several of the horses had been taken alive in the defeat. The two Spaniards readily consented to her request, hoping to avail themselves of this opportunity to recover their liberty. But the means they took to effect this were marked with an act of ingra- titude to their benefactress, of so much the deeper dye, as, from their not being strictly guarded, such an expedient was unnecessary. As the young prince was one day riding be- tween them, escorted by his archers, and pre- ceded by an officer armed with a lance, Monroy suddenly attacked him with a poniard, which he carried about him, and brought him to the ground, with two or three mortal wounds ; Mi- randa at the same time wresting the lance from the officer, they forced their way through the guards who were thrown into confusion by such an unexpected event. As they were well mounted 46 tney easily escaped pursuit, and taking their way through the desarts of Peru, arrived at Cuzco, the residence at that time of Vasca de Castro, who had succeeded to the government upon the death of Pizarro, cruelly assassinated by the partizans of Almagro. On being informed of the critical situation of Chili, Castro immediately dispatched a consider- able number of recruits by land under the com- mand of Monroy, who had the good fortune to conceal his march from the Copiapins ; and at the same time gave directions to Juan Batista Pastene, a noble Genoese, to proceed thither by sea with a still greater number. Valdivia, on receiving these two reinforcements, which ar- rived nearly at the same time, began to carry his great designs into execution. As he had been solicitous from the first to have a complete knowledge of the sea-coast, he ordered Pastene to explore it, and note the situation of the most important parts and places, as far as the straits of Magellan. On his return from this expe- dition, he sent him back to Peru for new recruits, as, since the affair of Copiapo, the natives became daily more bold and enterprising. Among others, the Quillotanes had, a little time before, massacred all the soldiers employed in the mines. For this purpose they employed the following stratagem : one of the neighbour- ing Indians brought to the commander, Gonzalo 4 47 &ios, a pot fuil of gold., telling him that he had found a great quantity of it in a certain district of the country. Upon this information, all were impatient to proceed thitherto participate in the imagined treasure. As they arrived tumultuouslj at the place described, they fell into an ambus- cade, from whence none escaped except the im- prudent commander and a negro., whe saved themselves by the superior excellence of their horses. The frigate that was then finished was also destroyed, being burned together with the arsenal. Valdivia, on receiving advice of this disaster, hastened thither with his troops, and having re- venged, as far as in his power, the death of his soldiers, built a fort to protect the miners. Being afterwards reinforced with three hundred men from Peru, under the command of Francis Villa- gran and Christopher Escobar, he became sen- sible of the necessity of establishing a settlement in the northern part of the kingdom, that might serve as a place of arms, and a protection for the convoys that should come that way. For this purpose he made choice of a beautiful plain at the mouth of the river Coquimbo, which forms a good harbour, where, in 1544, he founded a city called by him Serena, in honour of the place of his birth ; it is not, however, known at present by this appellation, except in geographical trea- tises, the country name having prevailed, as is 48 the case with all the other European settlement? in Chili. In the ensuing year' he began to think of ex- tending his conquests, and for that purpose pro- ceeded into the country of the Promaucians. Contemporary writers have not made mention of any battle that was fought upon this occasion ; but it is not to be supposed that this valiant people who had with so much glory repulsed the armies of the Inca and of Almagro, would have allowed him, without opposition, to violate their territory. It is, however, highly probable, that Valdivia, in the frequent incursions which he made upon their frontiers, had the art to persuade them to unite with him against the other Chilians by seducing promises ; a mean that has been employed by all political conquerors, who have ever availed themselves of the aid of barbarians to conqueF barbarians, in order, finally, to sub- jugate the whole. In fact, the Spanish armies have ever since that period been strengthened by Promaucian auxiliaries, from whence has sprung that rooted antipathy, which the Araucanians preserve against the residue of that nation. In the course of the year 1546, Valdivia, having passed the Maule, proceeded in his career of victory to the river Itata. While encamped there in a place called Quilacura, he was at- tacked at night by a body of the natives, who destroyed many of his horses, and put him in 49 imminent hazard of experiencing a total rout. His Toss upon this occasion must have been very considerable, since he afterwards relinquished his plan of proceeding farther, and returned to St. Jago. Perceiving that his expected sue-, cours from Peru did not arrive, he resolved to go thither in person hoping, by means of his activity and address, to recruit a body of troops sufficient for the subjugation of the southern provinces, which had shown themselves the most warlike. As he was on the eve of bis departure, in the year 1547, Pastenes arrived, but without any men, and brought news of the civil war that had broken out between the conquerors of the empire of the Incas. Nevertheless, persuaded that he might reap an advantage from these revolutions, he set sail with Pastene for Peru, taking with him a great quantity of gold. On his arrival, he served in quality of quarter-master general in the famous battle that decided the fate of Gonzalo Pkarro. Gasca, the president, who under the royal standard, had gained the vic- tory, pleased with the service rendered hin* upon this occasion by Valdivia, confirmed him in his office of governor, and furnishing him with an abundance of military stores, sent him back to Chili, with two ships filled with those seditious adventurers, of whom he was glad of an oppor- tunity tabe disembarrassed, VOL. II, E 5d In the meantime, Pedro de Hoz, who, as we have already observed, had been deprived of that share in the conquest that bad been granted him by the court, and who had imprudently placed himself in the power of his rival, was accused of wishing to usurp the government. Whether this accusation was well founded, or whether it was merely a pretext to get rid of him, he was, in 1548, publicly beheaded by order of Francis Villagran, who acted as go- vernor in the absence of Valdivia, whom he pro- bably thought to please by thus freeing him from a dangerous competitor, if he had not even received private instructions relative to the business. The Copiapins, eager to revenge the murder of their prince, killed about the same time forty Spaniards, who had been detached from several squadrons, and were proceeding from Peru to Chili ; and the Coquimbanes, instigated by their persuasions, massacred all the inhabitants of the colony lately founded in their territory, razing the city to its foundation. Francis Aguirre was immediately ordered there, and had several encounters with them with various suo cess. In 1549 he rebuilt the city in a more ad- vantageous situation ; its inhabitants claim him as their founder, and the most distinguished of them boast themselves as his descendants. After a contest of nine years, and almost in- 51 credible fatigues, Yaldivia, believing himself well established in that part of Chili which was under the dominion of the Peruvians, distributed the land among his soldiers, assigning to each, under the title of commandery, a considerable portion, with the inhabitants living thuieon, ac- cording to the baneful feudal system of Europe. By this means, having quieted the restless am- bition of his companions, he set out anew on his march for the southern provinces, with a respect- able army of Spanish and Promaucian troops. After a journey of 240 miles, he arrived, without encountering many obstacles, at the bay of Penco, which had been already explored by Pastene, where, on the 5th of October, 1550, he founded a third city, called Conception.* The situation of this place was very advan- tageous for commerce from the excellence of its harbour, but, from the lowness of the ground, was exposed in earthquakes to inundations of the sea. The bay, which is in extent from east to west six * This city was destroyed by the earthquakes and inunda* tions of the sea, that occurred on the 8th of July, 1730; and the 24th of May, 1751. For this reason the inhabitants esta- blished themselves, on the 24th of November, 1764, in the valley of Mocha, three leagues south of Penco, between the rivers Andalien and Bio-bio, where they founded New Con- ception. The harbour is situated in the middle of the bay called Talgacuano, a little more th^xn two leagues west of Mocha; a fort is all the building that is now left at Pensa, 52 miles, and nine from north to south, is defended from the sea by a pleasant island called Quin- quina ; the entrance upon the north side, which is half a league broad, is the only one of suf- ficient depth to admit ships of the line, the other- being narrow, and only navigable for small vessels. The soil, under the influence of a fa- vourabie climate, produces an abundance of tim- ber, minerals, excellent wine, and all the other necessaries of life, and the sea and rivers great quantities of delicate fish. The adjacent tribes, perceiving the intention of the Spaniards to occupy this important post, gave information of it to their neighbours and friends, the Araucanians, who, forseeing that it would not be long before the storm would burst upon their own country, resolved to succour their distressed allies, in order to secure themselves. But before I proceed to relate the events of this war, I have thought proper to giye some account of the character and manners of that warlike people, who have hitherto, with incredible valour, opposed the overwhelming torrent of Spanish conquest, and from henceforward will furnish all the materials of our history. THE CIVIL HISTORY OF CHILI* BOOK II. CHAPTER T. Local Situation, Character .Dress, and Dwellings of the Araucanians. THE Araucanians inhabit that delightful country situated between the rivers Bio-bio and Valdivia, and between the Andes and the sea, extending from 36. 44. to 39. 50. degrees of south latitude. They derive their appellators of Araucanians from the province of Arauco, which, though the smallest in their territory, has, like Holland, given its name to the whole nation, either from its having been the first to unite with the neighbouring provinces, or from having at some remote period reduced them under its dominion. This people, ever enthusi- astically attached to their independence, pride 54 themselves in being called Auca,* which sig- nifies frank or free., and those Spaniards, who hud left the army in the Netherlands to serve in Chili, gave to this country the name of Arau- canian Flanders, or the Invincible State, and some of them have even had the magnanimity to celebrate in epic poetry the exploits of a people who, to preserve their independence, have shed such torrents of Spanish blood. The Araucanians, although they do not ex- ceed the ordinary height of the human species, are in general muscular, robust, well propor- tioned, and of a martial appearance. It is very unusual to find among them any person who is crooked or deformed, not from their pursuing, as some have supposed, the cruel custom of the ancient Spartans, in suffocating such unfortunate children, but because they leave to nature the care of forming them, without obstructing her ope- rations by the improper application of bandages and stays. Their complexion, with the ex- ception of the Boroanes, who, as I have already observed, are fair and ruddy, is of a reddish brown, but clearer than that of the other Ame- ricans. They have round faces, small animated eyes full of expression, a nose rather flat, a hand- * According to Falkner the missionary, Aucaes is a name of reproach, given them by the Spaniards, and signifying rebels or wild-men — aucani is to rebel, to make a riot — anca-cahual (cevallo) is a wild horse.— E. E. 55 - some mouth, even and white teeth, muscular and well shaped legs, and small flat feet. Like the Tartars, thej have scarce any beard, and the smallest hair is never to be discerned on their faces, from the care they take to pluck out the little that appears; they esteem it very impolite to have a beard, calling the Europeans, by way of reproach, the long beards. The same atten- tion is paid to removing it from their bodies, where its growth is more abundant ; that of their heads is thick and black, but rather coarse ; they permit it to grow to a great length, and wind it in tresses around their heads ; of this they are as proud and careful as they are averse to beards, nor could a greater affront be offered them than to cut it off. Their women are deli- cately formed, and many of them, especially among the Boroanes, are very handsome. Possessed of great strength of constitution, and unincumbered with the cares that disturb civilized society, they are not subject, except at a very advanced period of life, to the infirmities attendant upon old age. They rarely begin to be grey before they are sixty or seventy, and are not bald or wrinkled until eighty. They are generally longer lived than the Spaniards, and many are to be met with whose age exceeds a hundred ; and, to the latest period of their lives, they retain their sight, teeth, and memory, unim- paired. e4 56 Their moral qualities are proportionate to their physical endowments; they are intrepid, animated, ardent, patient in enduring fatigue, ever ready to sacrifice their lives in the service of their country, enthusiastic lovers of liberty, which they consider as an essential constituent of their existence, jealous of their honour, courteous, hospitable, faithful to their engage- ments, grateful for services rendered them, and generous and humane towards the vanquished. But these noble qualities are obscured by the vices inseparable from the half-savage state of life which they lead, unrefined by literature or cultivation ; these are drunkenness, debauchery, presumption, and a haughty contempt for all other nations. Were the civil manners and in- nocent improvements of Europe introduced among them, they would soon become a people deserving of universal esteem; but, under the present system, this happy change appears im- possible to be effected. All those nations whom either the nature of the climate or a sense of decency has induced to clothe themselves, have made use at first ,of loose garments, as being the most easily made. But the Araucaniaus, from their great attachment to war, which they consider as the only true source of glory, have adopted the short garment, as the best suited to martial conflicts. This dress is made of wool, as was that of the Greeks and 57 Romans, and consists of a shift, a vest, a pair of short close breeches, and a cloak in form of a scapuiary, with an opening in the middle for the head, made full and long so as to cover the hands and descend to the knees. This cloak is called poncho, and is much more commodious than our mantles, as it leaves the arms at liberty, and may be thrown over the shoulder at pleasure ; it is also a better protection from the wind and the rain, and more convenient for riding on horseback, for which reason it is commonly worn not only by the Spaniards in Chili, but by those of Peru and Paraguay. The shirt, vest, and breeches, are always of a greenish blue or turquois, which is the favourite colour of the nation, as red is that of the Tartars. The poncho is also, among persons of inferior condition, of a greenish blue, but those of the higher classes wear it of different colours, either white, red, or blue, with stripes a span broad, on which are wrought, with much skill, figures of flowers and animals in various colours, and the border is ornamented with a handsome fringe. Some of these ponchos are of so fine and elegant a texture as to be sold for a hundred and even a hundred and fifty dollars. The Araucanians make use of neither turbans nor hats, but wear upon their heads a bandage of embroidered wool, in the form of the ancient 58 diadem. This, whenever they salute, they raise a little, as a mark of courtesy, and on going to war ornament it with a number of beautiful plumes. They also wear around the body a long woollen girdle, or sash, handsomely wrought. Persons of rank wear woollen boots of various, colours, and leather sandals, called cliclle, but the common people always go bare-footed. The women are clad with much modesty and simplicity. Their dress is entirely of wool, and, agreeable to the national taste, of a greenish blue colour. It consists of a tunic, a girdle, and a short cloak, called icliella, which is fastened be- fore with a silver buckle. The tunic, called chiamal, is long, and descends to the feet, it is without sleeves, and is fastened upon the shoulder by silver brooches or buckles. This dress, sanc- tioned by custom, is never varied ; but, to gratify their love of finery, they adorn themselves with all those trinkets which caprice or vanity sug- gests. They divide their hair into several tresses, which float in graceful negligence over their shoulders, and decorate their heads with a species of false emerald, called glianca, held by them in high estimation. Their necklaces and bracelets are of glass, and their ear-rings, which are square, of silver; they have rings upon each finger, the greater part of which are of silver. It is calculated that more than a hundred thou- 59 sand marks of this metal are employed in these female ornaments, since they are worn eyen by the poorest class. I have already given some account of the dwellings of the ancient Chilians; the Arauca- niaiis, tenacious, as are all nations not corrupted by luxury, of the customs of their country, have made no change in their mode of building. But, as they are almost ail polygamists, the size of their houses is proportioned to the number of' women they can maintain. The interior of these houses is very simple, the luxury of convenience, splendour, and show, is altogether unknown in them, and necessity alone is consulted in the se- lection of their furniture. They never form towns, but live in scattered villages or hamlets, on the banks of rivers, or in plains that are easily irrigated. Their local at- tachments are strong, each family preferring to live upon the land inherited from its ancestors, which they cultivate sufficiently for their sub- sistence. The genius Of this haughty people, in which the savage still predominates, will not permit them to live in walled cities, which they consider as a mark of servitude. 1 60 CHAP. II. Division of the Araucanicln State ; Its political Form and civil Institutions. i Although in their settlements the Araiicanians are wanting in regularity, that is by no means the case in the political division of their state, which is regulated with much intelligence. They have divided it from north to south into four uthal-mapus, or parallel tetrarchates, that are nearly equal, to which they give the names of Iduquen-mapu, the maritime country ; lelbun- mapu, the plain country; inapire-mapu, the country at the foot of the Andes; and pire- mapu, or that of the An$es. Each Utliahnapu is divided into five aiUuregues, or provinces; and each aillaregue into nine regues, or counties^ The maritime country comprehends the pro- vinces of Arauco, Tucapel, Iliicura, Boroa, and Nagtolten ; the country of the plain includes those of EncoL, Puren, Repocura, Maquegua, and Mariquina : that at the foot of the Andes contains Marven, Colli ue, Chacaico, Quechere- gua, and Guanagua ; and in that of the Andes is included all the valleys of the Cordilleras, situated within the limits already mentioned^ 61 which are inhabited by the Puelehes.* These mountaineers, who were formerly a distinct na- tion in alliance with the Araucanians, are now united under their government;, and have the same magistrates. This division, which discovers a certain degree of refinement in their political administration, is of a date anterior to the arrival of the Spaniards, and serves as a basis for the civil government of the Araucanians, which is aristocratic as that of all other barbarous nations has been. This species of republic consists of three orders of nobility, each subordinate to the other, the Toquis, the Apo- Ulmenes, and the Ulmenes, all of whom have their respective vassals. The Toquis, who may be styled tetrarchs, are four in number, and preside over the uthal-mapus. The appellation of Toqui is derived from the verb toquin, which signifies to judge or command ; they are independent of each other, but confede- * In the second and third articles of the treaty of Lonquil- mo, made in the year 1784, the limits of each Uthalmapu are expressly defined, and its districts marked out. It declares \o be appertaining to that of the Cordilleras, the Huilliches of Changolo, those of Gayolto and Paicachoroy to the south, *he Puelehes and Indian Pampas to the north, from Malalque and the frontiers of Mendoza to the Mamilmapu in the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, the whole forming a corporate body with the Puelehes and Pehuenches of MaCsle, Chilian, and Antuco. So that at present, in case of an infraction of the treaty, it may easily heknowa what Uthalmapu is to make satisfaction. 62 1 rated for the public welfare. The Apo-UImenes\, or Arch-UImenes,* govern the provinces under their respective Toquis. The Ulmenes, who are the prefects of the regaes, or counties, are de- pendant upon the Apo-Ulmenes. This depend- ance, however, is confined almost entirely to military affairs. Although the Ulmenes are the lowest in the scale of the Araucanian aristo- cracy, the superior ranks, generally speaking, are comprehended under the same title, which is equivalent to that of Cacique. The discriminative badge of the Toqui is a species of battle-axe, made of porphyry or marble. The Apo-Ulmenes, and the Ulmenes, carry staves with silver heads, but the first by way of distinction have a ring of the same metal* around the middle of their staves. All these dignities are hereditary in the male line, and proceed in the order of primogeniture. Thus have the dukes, the counts, and marquisses of the military aristocracy of the north been esta- blished, from time immemorial, under different names, in a corner of South America. With its resemblance to the feudal system., this government contains also almost all its de- fects. The Toqui possesses but the shadow of sovereign authority. The triple power that constitutes it, is vested in the great body of the nobility, who decide every important question, in the manner of the ancient Germans, in a ge~ 3 63 iera'1 diet, which is called Butacoyog or Auca- oyog, the great council, or council of the Arau- anians. This assembly is usually held in some rge plain, where they combine the pleasures of e table with their public deliberations. Their code of laws, which is traditionary, is nominated Admapu, that is to say, the customs the country. In reality these laws are nothing re than primordial usages, or tacit conven- te, s that have been established among them, as was originally the case with almost all the laws ©f other nations ; they have, consequently, all the defects peculiar to such systems, since, as they are not written, they can neither be very compendious, nor made sufficiently public. The clearest and most explicit of their poli- tical and fundamental laws are those that' regu- late the limits of each authority ; the order of succession in the Toquiates and in the Ulminate9,, the confederation of the four Tetrarchates, the choice and the power of the commanders in chief in time of war, and the right of convoking the general diets, which is the privilege of the Toquis ; all these laws have for their object the preservation of liberty and the established form of government. According to them, two or more states cannot be held under the rule of the same chief. Whenever the male branch of the reign- ing family becomes extinct, the vassals recover their natural right of electing their own chief I 62 rated for the public welfare. The Apo-XJImenei or Arch-UImenes,» govern the provinces und( their respective Toquis. The Ulmenes, who ai the prefects of the regnes, or counties,, are d< pendant upon the Apo-Ulmenes. This depen< ance, however, is confined almost entirely i military affairs. Although the Ulmenes are tl lowest in the scale of the Araucanian arist< cracy, the superior ranks, generally speakin: are comprehended under the same title, which equivalent to that of Cacique. The discriminative badge of the Toqui is a species of battle-axe, made of porphyry or marble. The Apo-Ulmenes, and the Ulmenes, carry staves with silver heads, but the first by way of distinction have a ring of the same metal" around the middle of their staves. All these dignities are hereditary in the male line, and proceed in the order of primogeniture. Thus have the dukes, the counts, and marquisses of the military aristocracy of the north been esta- blished, from time immemorial, under different names, in a corner of South America. With its resemblance to the feudal system, this government contains also almost all its de- fects. The Toqui possesses but the shadow of sovereign authority. The triple power that constitutes it, is vested in the great body of the nobility, who decide every important question, in the manner of the ancient Germans, in a ge- 3 63 neral diet, which is called Butacoyog or Auca- toyogt the great council, or council of the Arau- canians. This assembly is usually held in some large plain, where they combine the pleasures of the table with their public deliberations. Their code of laws, which is traditionary, is denominated Admapu, that is to say, the customs of the country. In reality these laws are nothing more than primordial usages, or tacit conven- tions that have been established among them, as was originally the case with almost all the laws ©f other nations ; they have, consequently, all the defects peculiar to such systems, since, as they are not written, they can neither be very compendious, nor made sufficiently public. The clearest and most explicit of their poli- tical and fundamental laws are those that regu- late the limits of each authority ; the order of succession in the Toquiates and in the Ulminates, the confederation of the four Tetrarchates, the choice and the power of the commanders in chief in time of war, and the right of convoking the general diets, which is the privilege of the Toquis ; all these laws have for their object the preservation of liberty and the established form of government. According to them, two or more states cannot be held under the rule of the same chief. Whenever the male branch of the reign- ing family becomes extinct, the vassals recover their natural right of electing their own chief ■I from that family which is most pleasing to them, But before he is installed, he must be presented to the Toqui of their Uthalmapu, who gives notice of his election, in order that the new chief may be acknowledged and respected by all in that quality. The subjects are not, as under the feudal go- vernment, liable to a levy, or to any kind of per- sonal service, except in time of war. Neither are they obliged to pay any contributions to their chiefs, who must subsist themselves by means of their own property. They respect them, however, as their superiors, or rather as the first among their equals ; they also attend to their decisions, and escort them whenever they go out of the state. These chiefs, elated with their authority, would gladly extend its limits, and govern as absolute masters ; but the people, who cannot endure despotism, oppose their pre- tensions, and compel them to keep within the bounds prescribed by their customs. The civil laws of a society whose manners are simple, and interests but little complicated, cannot be very numerous. The Araucanians have but a few ; these, however, would be suf- ficient for their state of life, if they were more respected and less arbitrary. Their system of criminal jurisprudence, in a particular manner, is very imperfect. The offences that are deemed deserving of capital punishment are, treachery, 65 intentional homicide, adultery, tlie robbery of any valuable article, and witchcraft. Never- theless, those found guilty of homicide can screen themselves from punishment by a compo- sition with the relations of the murdered. Hus- bands and fathers are not subject to any punish- ment for killing their wives or children, as they are declared, hy their laws, to be the natural masters of their lives. Those accused of sor- cery, a crime only known in countries involved in ignorance, are first tortured by fire, in order to make them discover their accomplices, and then stabbed with daggers. Other crimes of less importance are punished by retaliation, which is much in use among them, under the name of thaulonco. Justice is administered in a tumultuous and irregular manner, and without any of those preliminary formalities, for the most part useless, that are observed among civilized nations. The criminal who is convicted of a capital offence, is imme- diately put to death, according to the military custom, without first being suffered to rot in prison, a mode of confinement unknown to the Araucanians. It was, however, a little before my leaving Chili, introduced into Tucapel, the seat of the government of JLauquen-mapu, by Cathicurd, the Toqui of that district; but, I know not the success of this experiment, which was at first very ill received by his subjects VOL, IJ. F 66 The Ulmelies are the lawful judges of their vassals, and for this reason their authority is less precarious. The unconquerable pride of this people prevents them from adopting the wise measures of public justice; they alone possess some general and vague ideas upon the principles of political union, whence the executive power being without force, distributive justice is ill administered, or entirely abandoned to the caprice of individuals. The injured family often as- sumes the right of pursuing the aggressor or his relations, and of punishing them. From this abuse are derived the denominations and dis- tinctions, so much used in their jurisprudence., of genguerin, genguman, genla, &c. denoting the principal connections of the aggressor, of the injured, or the deceased, who are supposed to be authorized, by the laws of nature, to sup- port by force the rights of their relatives. A system of judicial proceeding so irregular, and apparently so incompatible with the existence of any kind of civil society, becomes the constant source of disorders entirely hostile to the pri- mary object of all good government, public and private security. When those who are at enmity have a considerable number of adherents, they mutually make incursions upon each others pos- sessions, where they destroy or burn all that they cannot carry oif. These private quarrels, called malocas, resemble much the feuds of the ancient 67 Germans, and are very dreadful when the Ul- menes are concerned, in which case they become real civil wars. But it must be acknowledged that they are generally unaccompanied with the effusion of blood, and are confined to pillage alone. This people, notwithstanding their pro- pensity to violence, rarely employ arms in their private quarrels, but decide them with the fist or with the club. ?f I 6S CHAP. HI. Military System of the Araucanians ; their Arms and Mode of making War. The military government of the Araucanians i& not only more rational and better systematized than the civil, but in some respects appears to be superior to the genius of an uncultivated nation. Whenever the grand council determines to go to war, they proceed immediately to the election of a commander in chief, to which the Toquis have the first claim, as being the hereditary generals or stadtholders of the republic. If neither of them is deemed qualified for the command, dis- missing all regard for rank, they entrust it t laguvimen ! Pursue them, friends, pursue them, kill them! If the contrary hap- pens, they are greatly afflicted, and call out in consternation, Yavulumen, pum, naniuntumen ! Courage friends, be firm ! Their ideas respecting the origin of creation are so crude and ridiculous, that to relate them could serve for little else than to show the weak- ness of human reason when left to itself. They have among them a tradition of a great deluge, in which only a few persons were saved, who took refuge upon a high mountain called Theg- theg, the thundering, or the sparkling, which had three points, and possessed the property of moving upon the water. From hence it is in- ferible that this deluge was in consequence of some volcanic eruption, accompanied by terrible earthquakes, and is probably very different from that of Noah. Whenever a violent earthquake occurs, these people fly for safety to those moun- tains which they fancy to be of a similar ap- pearance, and which of course, as they suppose, must possess the same property of floating on the water, assigning as a reason, that they are fearful after an earthquake that the sea will again re- turn and deluge the world. On these occasions,, each one takes a good supply of provisions, and wooden plates to protect their heads from being scorched, provided the Thegtheg, when raised u raised by the waters, should be elevated to the sun. Whenever they are told that plates made of earth would be much more suitable for this purpose than those of wood, which are liable to be burned, their usual reply is, that their ancestors did so before them. 95 CHAP. VI. Division of Time ; Astronomical Ideas ; Measures. Time is divided by the Araucanians, as with us, into years, seasons, months, days, and hours, but in a very different method. Their year is solar, and begins on the 22d of December, or imme- diately after the southern solstice. For this reason they call this solstice Thaumathipantu, the head and tail of the year, and denominate June Udanthip antic, the divider of the year, from its dividing it into two equal parts. These two essential points they are able to ascertain with sufficient exactness by means of the solstitial shadows. The year is called Tipantu, the de- parture, or course of the sun, as that planet de- parts, or appears to depart from the tropic in order to make its annual revolution; it is divided into twelve months, of thirty days each, as was that of the Egyptians and Persians. In order to complete the tropical year they add five inter- calary days, but 'in what manner they are intro- duced I am not able to determine ; it is, how- ever, probable they are placed in the last month, which in that case will have thirty-five days. m These months are called generally cujen, or moons, and must originally have been regulated wholly by the phases of the moon. The proper names of them, as near as they can be rendered by ours, are the following, which are derived from the qualities, or the most remarkable things that are produced in each month : Avun-cujen, Cogi-cujen, Glor-cujen, Rimu-cujen, Inarimu- cujen, Thor- cujen, Inanthor- cujen, Hum- cujen, Filial- cujen, Hueul-cujen, Jnan-hueul- cujen, Hueviru-cujen, January — The month of fruit. February — The month of harvest. March — The month of maize. April — The 1st month of the rimu. May — The 2d month of the rimu. June — The 1st month of foam. July — The 2d month of foam. August — The unpleasant mouth. September — The treacherous month. October — The 1st month of new winds. November — The 2d month of new winds, December — The month of new fruit. The seasons, as in Europe, consist of three months; the spring is called Peughcn, the summer Ucan, the autumn Gualug, and the winter Pu- cliam. To render the distribution of the year uniform, they also divide the natural day into twelve parts, which they call gliagantu, assign- ing six to the day and six to the night, in the manner of the Chinese, the Japanese, the Ota- heitans, and several other nations. Thus each gliagantu or Araucanian hour is equal to two of ours. Those of the day they determine by the 97 height of the sun, and those of the night by the position of the stars : but, as they make use of no instrument for this purpose, it follows that this division, which must necessarily be unequal according to the different seasons of the year, will be much more so from the imperfect manner of regulating it. They begin to number their hours as is general in Europe, from midnight, and give to each a particular name.* In civil transactions, they calculate indifferently, either by days, nights, or mornings, so that three days, three nights, or three mornings, signify the same thing. To the stars in general they give the name of huaglen, and divide them into several constella- tions, which they ca\l pal, or ritha. These con- stellations usually receive their particular appel- lations from the number of remarkable stars that compose them. Thus the Pleiades are called Cajupal, the constellation of six, and the An- tarctic Cross, Meleritlw, the constellation of four, as the first has six stars that are very ap- parent, and the last four. The Milky Way is called Rupuepeu, the fabulous road, from a story which, like other nations, they relate of it, and which is considered as fabulous by the astrono- mers of the country. * These names, commencing at midnight, are, Puliuen, UeurifThipanantUfMaleu, Futamaleu, Ragiantu, Culunavtu, Gullantu, Conantu, Gavquenantu, Puni, Ragipan. VOL.- II. H 98 They are well acquainted with the planets, which they call Gau, a word derived from the verb gaun, to wash, from whence it may be in ferred, that they have respecting these bodies the same opinion as the Romans, that at their setting they submerge themselves in the sea. Nor are there wanting Fontenelles among them, who believe that many of those globes are so many other earths, inhabited in the same manner as ours ; for this reason they call the sky Guenu- mapu, the country of heaven ; and the moon Cuyen-mapu, the country of the moon. They agree likewise with the Aristotelians, in main- taining that the comets, called by them Cheruvoe, proceed from terrestrial exhalations, inflamed in the upper regions of the air ; but they are not considered as the precursors of evil and disaster, as they have been esteemed by almost all the nations of the earth. An eclipse of the sun is called by them Layantu, and that of the moon Laycujen, that is, the death of the sun or of the moon. But these expressions are merely meta- phorical, as are the correspondent ones in Latin, of defectus soils, aut time. I know not their opinions of the cause of these phenomena ; but I have been informed that they evince no greater alarm upon these occasions than at the most common operations of nature. Their language contains several words wholly applicable to astro- nomical subjects, such as Thoren, the late rising % 99 of the stars, and others similar, which prove that their knowledge in this respect, is much greater than what is generally supposed. But my researches into their customs, owing to the reasons which I have already assigned, were by no means so complete as I could have wished before I left the country. Their long measures are the palm, neia, the span, duche, the foot, namun, the pace, tliecan, the ell, nevcu, and the league, tupu, which an- swers to the marine league, or the parasang of the Persians. Their greater distances are com- puted by mornings, corresponding to the day's journey of Europe. Their liquid and dry mea- sures are less^ numerous : the guampar, a quart, the can, a pint, and the mencu, a measure of a less quantity, serve for the first. The dry mea- sures are the chiaigae, which contains about six pints, and the glieyu, which is double that quantity. With regard to the speculative sciences they have very little information. Their geometrical notions are, as might be expected from an uncul- tivated people, very rude and confined. They have not even proper words to [denote the prin- cipal figures, as the point, the line, the angle, the triangle, the square, the circle, the sphere, the cube,, the cone, &c. Their language, how* ever, as we shall show hereafter, is flexible and h2 100 adapted to every species of composition,, whence it would be easy to form a vocabulary of tech- nical words to facilitate the acquisition of the sciences to the Araucanians. 101 CHAP. VII. Rhetoric; Poetry; Medical Skill; Commerce of the Araucanians. Notwithstanding their general ignorance, they cultivate successfully the sciences of rheto- ric, poetry, and medicine, as far as these are at- tainable by practice or observation ; for they have no books among them, nor any who know how to write or read. Nor can they be induced to learn these arts ; either from their aversion to every thing that is practised by the Europeans, or from their being urged by a savage spirit to despise whatever does not belong to their country. Oratory is particularly held in high estimation by them, and, as among the ancient Romans, is the high road to honour, and the management of public affairs. The eldest son of an Ulmen who is deficient in this talent, is for that sole reason excluded from the right of succession, and one of his younger brothers, or the nearest relation that he has, who is an able speaker, sub- stituted in his place. Their parents, therefore, accustom them from their childhood to speak in public, and carry them to their national assem- h3 102 blies, where the best orators of the country dis- play their eloquence. From hence is derived the attention which they generally pay to speak their language correctly, and to preserve it in its purity, taking great care to avoid the introduction of any foreign word, in which they are so particular, that whenever a foreigner settles among them, they oblige him to relinquish his name and take another in the Chilian language. The missionaries themselves are obliged to conform to this singular regula- tion, if they would obtain the public favour. They have much to endure from this excessive fastidiousness, as even while they are preaching the audience will interrupt them, and with im- portunate rudeness correct the mistakes in lan- guage or pronunciation that escape them. Many of them are well acquainted with the Spanish language, both from their frequent communica- tion with the neighbouring Spaniards, and from having been accustomed to speak a soft, regular, and varied language, which readily adapts itself to the pronunciation of the European dialects, as has been observed by Captain Wallis respecting the Patagonians, who are real Chilians.* They, however, make but little use of it, none of them ever attempting to speak in Spanish in any of * Hawkesworth's Voyage of Captain Wallis, 103 the assemblies or congresses that have been held betvyeen the two nations, on which occasion they had much rather submit to the inconvenience of listening to a tiresome interpreter, than, by speaking another language, to degrade their native tongue. The speeches of their orators resemble those of the Asiatics, or more properly those of all barbarous nations. The style is highly figura- tive, allegorical, elevated, and replete with pe- culiar phrases and expressions that are employed only in similar compositions, from whence it is called coyagtucan, the style of parliamentary harangues. They abound with parables and apologues, which sometimes furnish the whole substance of the discourse. Their orations, not- withstanding, contain all the essential parts re- quired by the rules of rhetoric, which need not excite our surprise, since the same principle of nature that led the Greeks to reduce eloquence to an art, has taught the use of it to these people. They are deficient neither in a suitable exordium, a clear narrative, a well-founded argument, or a pathetic peroration. They commonly divide their subject into two or three points, which they call thoy, and specify the number by saying epu thoy-gei tamen pictvin, what I am going to say is divided into two points. They employ in their oratory several kinds of style, but the most H 4 101 esteemed is the rachidugun, a word equivalent to academic. Their poets are called gempm, lords of speech. This expressive name is well applied to them,, since possessing that strong enthusiasm excited by passions undebilitated by the restraints and refine- ments of civi'l life, they follow no other rules in their compositions than the impulse of their imaginations. Of course, their poetry generally contains strong and lively images, bold figures,, frequent allusions and similitudes, novel and forcible expressions, and possesses the art of moving and interesting the heart by exciting its sensibility. Every thing in it is metaphorical and animated, and allegory is, if I may use the expression, its very soul or essence. Unre- strained enthusiasm is the prime characteristic of all the poetry of savages ; such was that of the Bards of the Celts, and the Scalds of the Danes ; and the pretended editor of the poems of Ossian has discovered an intimate acquaintance with the poetic genius of barbarous nations. The principal subject of the songs of the Araucanians is the exploits of their heroes. I would gladly have presentee! to my readers some of these compositions, but the difficulty of pro- curing them, from the distance of the country, has not permitted me to do it. - Their verses are composed mostly in stanzas of eight or eleven 105 syllables, a measure that appears the most agree- able to the human ear. They are blank, but occasionally a rhyme is introduced, according to the taste or caprice of the poet. The Araucanians have three kinds of phy- sicians, the -Ampives, the Vileus, and the Machis. The Ampives, a word equivalent to empirics, are the best. They employ in their cures only sim- ples, are skillful herbalists, and have some very good ideas of the pulse and the other diagnostics. The Vileus correspond to the methodists, or re- gular physicians. Their principal theory is, that all contagious disorders proceed from in- sects, an opinion held by many physicians in Europe. For this reason they generally give to epidemics the name of cutampiru, that is to say, Vermiculous disorders, or diseases of worms. The Machis are a superstitious class, that are to be met with among all the savage nations of both continents. They maintain that all serious disorders proceed from witchcraft, and pretend to cure them by supernatural means, for which reason they are employed in desperate cases, When the exertions of the Ampives or of the Vileus are ineffectual. Their mode of cure is denominated machitim, and consists in the fol- lowing idle ceremonies, which are always per- formed in the night : The room of the sick person is lighted with a great number of torches, and in a corner of it, 108 among several branches of laurel, is placed a large bough of cinnamon, to which is suspended the magical drum ; near it is a sheep ready for sacrifice. The Machi directs the women who are present to sing with a loud voice a doleful song, accompanied with the sound of some little drums which thej beat at the same time. In the meantime, he fumigates three times with tobacco-smoke, the branch of cinnamon^ the sheep, the singers, and the sick person. After this ceremony, he kills the sheep, takes out the heart, and after sucking the blood fixes it upon the branch of cinnamon. He next approaches the patient, and by certain charms pretends to open his belly to discover the poison that has heen given him by the pretended sorcerer. He then takes the n^agical drum, which he beats, and sings, walking round with the women ; all at once he falls to the ground like a maniac, making frightful gesticulations and horrible con- tortions of his body, sometimes wildly opening his eyes, then shutting them, appearing like one possessed of an evil spirit. During this farcical scene, the relations of the sick interrogate the Machi upon the cause and seat of the malady. To these questions the fanatical impostor replies in such a manner as he believes best calculated to promote the deception, either by naming, as the cause of the malady, some person whom he wishes to revenge himself of, or by expressing 107 himself doubtfully as to the success of his in- IMBIB | cantations. In this manner these diabolical mountebanks become very frequently the cause of horrible murders, as the relations of the sick,, supposing the accusation true, put to death without pity those accused of these practices, and sometimes involve in their revenge the whole family, if they are not strong enough to resist their violence. But these malicious fornenters of discord are careful never to accuse the prin- cipal families. The Machis, though not in- vested with the sacerdotal character, like the physicians of most other savage nations, greatly resemble in their impostures the Shamanis of Kamschatka, the Mokises of Africa, and the Piachis of the Oronoque, whose tricks are ac- curately described by the Abbe Gili, in his history of the Oronokians. These physicians, notwithstanding the different systems that they pursue, sometimes meet to sa- tisfy the solicitude or the vanity of the relations of the sick. But their consultations, which are called Thaiiman, have generally the same issue as those of the physicians of Europe. Tliey have, besides these two, other kinds of pro- fessors of medicine. The first, who may be styled surgeons, are skillful in replacing dislo- cations, in repairing fractures, and in curing wounds and ulcers. They are called Ou-ctrve, possess real merit, and often perform w^derful 108 cures. But this is by no means the case with the others, called Cupove, from the verb cupon, to anatomize ; these, infatuated with Machii&m, dissect bodies, in order to show the entrails, which they say are infected with magic poison. Nevertheless, by means of this practice, they acquire ideas by no means contemptible respect- ing the conformation of the human body, for the different parts of which they have appro- priate names. Before the arrival of the Spaniards, the Arau- canians made use of bleeding, blistering, clysters, emetics, cathartics, and sudorifics, all which re- medies have their peculiar names in their lan- guage. They let blood with the sharp point of a flint fixed in a small stick. This instrument they prefer to a lancet, as they think it less liable to fail. Instead of a syringe they make use, like the inhabitants of Kamschatka, of a blad- der, to which they apply a pipe. Their emetics, cathartics, and sudorifics, are almost all ob- tained from the vegetable kingdom. Their internal and external commerce is very limited ; not having yet introduced among them the use of money, every thing is conducted by means of barter. This is regulated by a kind of conventional tariff, according to which all com- mercial articles are appraised under the name of Cullen, or payment, as was the custom in the time of Homer. Thus a horse or a bridle forms 109 one payment ; an ox two, &c. Their external commerce is carried on with the Spaniards, with whom the j exchange ponchos and animals for wine, or the merchandize of Europe, and their good faith in contracts of this kind has always been highly applauded.* * The Spaniard who engages in this trade, applies directly to the heads of families. When he has obtained the necessary permission, he proceeds to all the houses, and distributes in- discriminately his merchandize to all those who present them- selves. When he has completed his sale, he gives notice of his departure, and all the purchasers hasten to deliver to him, in the first village that he arrives at, the articles agreed upon ; and never has there been an instance of the least failure of punctuality. — Baynal's History. The following is extracted from the Compendium of the Geographical, Natural, and Civil History of Chili, printed in Bologna, 1776". " The Spaniards who live in the province of Maule, and near the frontiers of Araucania, carry on a com- merce with those people, which consists in supplying them with iron ware, bits for bridles, cutlery, grain, and wine. This trade is conducted altogether by the way of barter, as it is not possible to persuade the Araucaniaus to open the gold mines, nor to produce any of that metal. The returns therefore are in ponchi, or Indian cloaks, of which they receive more than forty thousand annually, in horned cattle, horses, ostrich fea- thers, curiously wrought baskets, and other trifles of a similar kind. This commerce, although generally prohibited, is carried on in the Indian country, whither the traders go with their merchandize by bye-roads, and deposit it in the cabins of the natives, to whom they readily trust whatever they wish to sell, certain of being punctually paid at the time agreed upon, which is always the case, these Indians observing the greatest faith in their contracts. 110 CHAP. VIII. Pride of the Araucanians ; Kindness and Charity towards each other; Mode of Salutation; Proper Names. Although the Araucanians have lono- since emerged from a savage state, they nevertheless preserve, in many respects, the prejudices and the peculiar character of that early period. Proud of their valour and unbounded liberty, they believe themselves the only people in the world that deserve the name of men. From hence it is that, besides the appellation of auca, or free, which they value so highly, they give them- selves metonymically the names of die, or the nation ; of reclie, pure or undegenerated nation ; and of huentu, men ; a word of similar signifi- cation with the vir of the Latins, and as the latter is the root of the word virtus, so from the former is derived huentugen, which signifies the same thing:. From this ridiculous pride proceeds the con- tempt with which they regard all other nations. To the Spaniards they gave, on their first know- ledge of them, the nickname of chiapi, vile soldiers, from y\ hence proceeded the denomination ill of chiapeton, by which they are known in South America. The y afterwards called them huinca ; this injurious appellation, which from time and custom has lost its odiousness, comes from the verb liuincnn, which signifies to assassinate. It is true that in their first battles the Spaniards gave them too much reason for applying to them these opprobrious epithets, which serve to the present time to denote one of that nation. Esteeming themselves fortunate in their barbarity, they call those Indians who live in the Spanish settlements culme-huinca, or wretched Spaniards. To the other Europeans, the English, French, and Italians, whom they readily distinguish from each other, they give the name of maruche. which is equivalent to the term moro, used by the common people of Spain to denote all strangers indiscriminately. They call each other pegni, that is brothers, and even apply the same name to those born in their country of foreign parents. The benevolence and kindness with which these people generally treat each other is really- surprising. For the word friend they have six or seven very expressive terms in their language, among others that of canay, which corresponds to the alter ego of the Latins. The relations that result from corresponding situations or common concerns in life are so many ties of re- gard, and are expressed by appropriate words 112 denoting particular friendship or good will. Those who have the same name call each other laca3 and those who bear but a part of the name. apellaca. These denominations incur an obliga- tion of mutual esteem and aid. Relations bv consanguinity are called in general monmague, and those of affinity, guillan. Their table of genealogy is more intricate than that of the Europeans, all the conceivable degrees of re- lationship being indicated therein by particular names. From the mutual affection that subsists be- tween them, proceeds their solicitude reciprocally to assist each other in their necessities. Not a beggar or an indigent person is to be found throughout the whole Araucanian territory; even the most infirm and incapable of subsisting themselves are decently clothed. This benevolence is not, however, confined only to their countrymen: they conduct with the greatest hospitality towards all strangers of whatever nation, and a traveller may live in any part of their country without the least expense. Their usual expression whenever they meet is marimari, and when they quit each other ven- temfi, or ventcni. They are rather tiresome in their compliments, which are generally too long, as they take a pride upon such occasions, as well as every other, in making a display of their elo- quence, The right hand is, among them, as with 113 the Europeans, the most honourable station, con- trary to the practice of the Asiatics, with whom the left enjoys that privilege. They are na- turally fond of honourable distinction, and there is nothing* they can endure with less patience than contempt or inattention. From hence., if a Spaniard speaks to one of them with his hat on, he immediately says to him in an indignant tone, entugo tami curtcsia, take off your hat. By attention and courtesy, any thing may be obtained from them, and the favours which they receive make an indelible impression upon their minds, while on the contrary, ill treatment ex- asperates them to such a degree, that they pro- ceed to the greatest excesses to revenge them- selves. The names of the Araucaniaus are composed of the proper name, which is generally either an adjective or a numeral, and the family appella- tion or surname, which is always placed after the proper name, according to the European custom, as cari-lcma, green bush ; meli-antu, four suns. The first denotes one of the family of the lemus, or bushes, and the second one of that of the antus3 or suns. Nor is there scarcely a material object which does not furnish them with a discriminative name. From hence, we meet among them with the families of Rivers, Mountains, Stones, Lions, &c. These families, VOL. IT I 114 which are called cuga, or dpa, are more or less respected according to their rank, or the heroes they have given to their country. The origin of these surnames is unknown,, hut is certainly of a period much earlier than that of the Spanish conquests, 115 CHAP. IX. Matrimony and Domestic Employments. By the admapu polygamy is allowed among the Araucanians, whence they marry as many wives as they can furnish with a dower, or more pro- perly purchase, as to obtain them they must give to their fathers a certain amount of property, as has been and still is the practice in most countries of both continents. But in their marriages they scrupulously avoid the more immediate degrees of relationship. Celibacy is considered as igno- minious. Old batchelors are called, by way of contempt, vuchiapra, and old maids cudepra, that is, old, idle, good for nothing. Their marriage ceremonies have little for- mality, or, to speak- more accurately, consist in nothing more than in carrying oif the bride by- pretended violence, which is considered by them, as by the negroes of Africa, an essential pre- requisite to the nuptials. The husband, in con- cert with the father, conceals himself with some friends near the place where they know the bride is to pass. As soon as she arrives she is seized and put on horseback behind the bridegroom, notwithstanding her pretended resistance and her i2 ■■ 114 which are called cuga, or rtpa, are more or less respected according to their rank, or the heroes they have given to their country. The origin of these surnames is unknown, hut is certainly of a period much earlier than that of the Spanish conquests, 115 CHAP. IX. Matrimony and Domestic Employments. By the admapu polygamy is allowed among the Araucanians, whence they marry as many wives as they can famish with a dower, or more pro- perly purchase, as to obtain them they must give to their fathers a certain amount of property, as has been and still is the practice in most countries of both continents. But in their marriages they scrupulously avoid the more immediate degrees of relationship. Celibacy is considered as igno- minious. Old batchelors are called, by way of contempt, vuchiapra, and old maids cadepra, that is, old, idle, good for nothing. Their marriage ceremonies have little for- mality, or, to speak- more accurately, consist in nothing more than in carrying off the bride by- pretended violence, which is considered by them, as by the negroes of Africa, an essential pre- requisite to the nuptials. The husband, in con- cert with the father, conceals himself with some friends near the place where they know the bride is to pass. As soon as she arrives she is seized and put on horseback behind the bridegroom, notwithstanding her pretended resistance and her i2 115 shrieks., which are far from being serious. In this maimer she is conducted with much noise to the house of her husband,, where her relations are assembled, and receive the presents agreed upon, after having- partaken of the nuptial enter- tainment. Of course, the expenses of an Arau- canian wedding are by no means inconsiderable, from whence it happens that the rich alone can maintain any considerable number of wives. The poor content themselves with one or two at most. Nor does there arise any inconvenience from the scarcity of women, as the number of females is much greater than the males, which is always the case in those countries where po- lygamy is permitted. The first wife, who is called unendomo, is always respected as the real and legitimate one by all the others, who are called inandomo, or secondary wives. She has the management of the domestic concerns, and regulates the interior of the house. The husband has much to do to maintain harmony among so many women, who are not a little inclined to jealousy, and each night at supper makes known his choice of her who is to have the honour of sharing his bed, by directing her to prepare it. The others sleep in the same room, and no one is permitted to approach them. Strangers, on their arrival, are lodged in a cabin entirely separate from this seraglio. in The wives have the greatest respect for their husbands, and generally give him the title of hula, or great. Besides female occupations,, they are obliged to employ themselves in many that, in civilized countries, are considered as the peculiar province of the men, according to the established maxim of all barbarous nations, that the weaker sex are born to labour, and the stronger to make war and to command. Each of them is obliged to present to her husband daily a dish prepared by herself in her separate kitchen or fire-place ; for this reason the houses of the Araucanians have as many fires as there are women inhabiting them ; whence, in inquir- ing of any one how many wives he has, they make use of the following phrase of being the most polite, muri ontlialgeimi, how many fires do you keep. Each wife is also obliged to furnish her husband yearly, besides his necessary clothing, with one of those cloaks already de- scribed, called ponchos, which form one of the principal branches of the Araucanian commerce. The greatest attention is paid by the women to the cleanliness of their houses, which they sweep, as well as their courts, several times in the course of a day ; and whenever they make use of any utensil they immediately wash it, for which purpose their houses are supplied with an abundance of running water. The same at- tention to cleanliness is paid to their persons ; i 3 138 they comb their heads twice a day, and once a week wash them with a soap made from the bark of the quillai* which keeps the hair very clean. There is never to be seen on their clothes the least spot or dirt. The men are likewise equally as fond of cleanliness ; they never fail to comb their heads every day, and are also accustomed frequently to wash them. Bath ing, as anions: the ancients, is in common use with these people, who think it necessary to preserve their health and strengthen their bodies, and in order to have it convenient they are careful to place their houses on the banks of rivers. In warm weather they bathe themselves several times a day, and it is rare even in winter that they do not bathe themselves at least once a day ; by means of this continued exercise they become excellent swimmers, and give wonderful proofs of dexterity in this art. They will swim for a great distance under water, and in this manner cross their largest rivers, which renders them some of the best divers in the world. The women are also fond of frequent bathing, and for this purpose, select the most obscure solitary places, at a great distance from the men. Even on the very day of the birth of a child, they take the infant to the river and wash it, and * Quillaia Saponaiia ; it is also much used by the Spaniards, specially those who live in the country, 119 also themselves, and within a short time return to their customary occupations,, without expe- riencing any inconvenience ; so true it is, that the human constitution is not naturally delicate, but is rendered so by our customs and modes of living. Child-birth is with them attended with little pain, which must be attributed to the strength of their constitutions ; for a similar reason the women of the lower classes in Europe, according to the statement of Doctor Bland, in the Philosophical Transactions, experience a more easy delivery than the ladies, and are less subject to sickness in consequence. Whether directed merely by the impulse of simple nature, or actuated by their solicitude to furnish strong men to the state, they rear their children in a very different manner from what is practised in civilized countries. When they have washed them in running water, as I have already observed, they neither swathe nor bandage them, but place them in a hanging cradle, called chiguh, lined with soft skins, where they merely cover them with a cloth, and swing them from time to time by means of a cord attached to the cradle, which leaves them more at liberty to attend to their domestic concerns. When their children begin to walk, which is very soon, they neither put them into stays nor any other confined dress, but keep them loosely clad, and let them go any where and eat what r4 120 they please. Formed thus, as it were, by them- selves, they become well shaped and robust, and less subject to those infirmities that are the con- sequence of a tender and a delicate education. Indeed, the maladies that prevail among the Araucanians are bat few, and are for the most part reducible to inflammatory fevers, originating either from intemperance in drinking, or to the excessive exercise which they sometimes use. If the physical education of the Araucanian children is in a certain degree laudable, the moral education which they receive will not cer- tainly meet with our entire approbation. It is, nevertheless, conformable to the ideas of that high-minded people, respecting the innate liberty of man, and such as may be expected from an uncivilized nation. " Their fathers are satisfied with instructing them in the use of arms, and the management of horses, and in learning them to speak their native language with elegance. In other respects they leave them at liberty to do" whatever they please, and praise them whenever they see them insolent, saying that in this manner they learn to become men. It is very unusual for them to chastise or correct them, as "they hold it as an established truth, that chastisement ren- ders men base and cowardlv. 121 CHAP. X. Food ; Music and other Diversions. The usual diet of the Araucanians is very sim- ple ; their principal subsistence is several kinds of grain and pulse, which they prepare in a variety of different modes. They are particu- larly fond of maize or Indian corn, and potatoes; of the last they have cultivated more than thirty different kinds from time immemorial, esteemin them a very healthy nutriment, which the ex- perience of ages has sufficiently demonstrated. Although they have large and small animals and birds in plenty, yet they eat but little flesh, and that is simply boiled or roasted. They have the same abstemiousness in the use of pork, from which they know very well how to prepare black puddings and sausages. Their seas and rivers abound with excellent fish, but they do riot much esteem this kind of aliment. Instead of bread, which they are not accustomed to eat except at their entertainments, they make use of small cakes or roasted potatoes with a little salt. Their usual drinks consist of various kinds of beer and of cider, made from Indian corn, from apples and other fruits of the country. They are nevertheless extremely fond of wine, which they purchase from the Spaniards, but hitherto, either for political reasons, or more probably from carelessness, they have paid no attention to the raising of vines, which, as has been proved by experiment, produce very well in all their provinces. The master of the house eats at the same table with the rest of his family. The plates are earthen, and the spoons and cups are made of horn or wood. The Ulmenes have in general wrought plate for the service of their tables, but they only make use of it when they entertain some stranger of rank; upon such occasions they ostentatiously display it, being naturally fond of show, and of being considered rich. Their seasonings are made of Guinea pepper, of madi, and salt. In summer they are fond of dining in the shade of trees, which for this pur- pose are always planted around their houses. They do not use the flint for the purpose of ob- taining fire, but employ, like the Kamtschat- dales, two pieces of dry wood, one of which they place upon another, and turn it m their hands until it takes fire, which is very soon. Besides dinner, suppor, and breakfast, they have every day without fail their luncheon, which consists of a little flour of parched corn, steeped in hot water in the morning, and in cold in the 123 But they often deviate from this simple mode of living at the public entertainments, which they give each other on occasion of funerals, marriages,, or any other important event. At such times no expense is spared, and they are profuse of every thing that can promote festivity, In one of these banquets, at which it is common for three hundred persons to be present, more meat, grain, and liquor, is consumed, than would be sufficient to support a whole family for two years. It is usual for one of these feasts to con- tinue two or three clays ; they are called cahuin, or circles, from the company seating themselves in a circle around a large branch of cinnamon. Such entertainments are made gratuitously, and any person whatever is permitted to partici- pate in them without the least expense or requi- sition. But this is not the case with the min- gacos, or those dinners which they are accus- tomed to make on occasion of cultivating their lantl, threshing their grain, building a house, or any other work which requires the combined aid of several. At such times all those who wish to partake in the feast must labour until the work is completed. But as these people have abundant leisure, the labourers convene in such numbers, that in a very few hours the work is finished, and the rest of the day is devoted to feasting and drinking. The Spaniards who live in the country have also adopted a similar plan. 121 availing themselves of the same kind of industry to complete their rural labours. Fermented liquors, in the opinion of the Arau- canians, form the principal requisites of an en- tertainment; for whenever they are not in plenty; whatever may be the quantity of provisions, they manifest great dissatisfaction, exclaiming golingelai, it is a wretched feast, there is no drink. These bacchanalian revels succeed each other almost without interruption throughout the year, as every man of property is ambitious of the honour of giving them, so that it may be said that the Araucanians, when not engaged in war, pass the greater part of their lives in re- velry and amusement. Music, dancing, and play, form their customary diversions. As to the first, it scarcely deserves the name, net so much from the imperfection of the instruments, which are the same they make use of in war, but from their manner of singing, which has some- thing in it harsh and disagreeable to the ear, until one has been accustomed to it foe a lonjr time. They have several kinds of dances, which are lively and pleasing, and possess con- siderable variety. The women aie rarely per- mitted to dance with the men, but form their companies apart, and dance to the sound of the same instruments. If what the celebrated Leibnitz asserts is true, that men have never discovered greater talents 125 than in the invention of the different kinds of games, the Araucanians may justly claim the merit of not being in this respect inferior to other nations. Their games are very numerous, and for the most part very ingenious ; they are divided into the sedentary and gymnastic. It is a curious fact, and worthy of notice, that among the first is the game of chess, which they call comican, and which has been known to them from time immemorial. The game of quechu, which they esteem highly, has a great affinity to that of backgammon, but instead of dice they make use of triangular pieces of bone marked with points, which they throw with a little hoop or circle supported by two pegs, as was, pro- bably, the fritillus of the ancient Romans. The youth exercise themselves frequently m wrestling and running. They are also much attached to playing with the ball ; it is called by them pilma, and is made from a species of rush. But of all their gymnastic games that require strength, the petico and the palican are the best suited to their genius, as they serve as an image of war. The first, which represents the siege of a fortress, is conducted in the fol- lowing manner : Twelve or more persons join hands and form a circle, in the centre of which stands a little boy ; their adversaries, who are equal in number, and sometimes superior, en- deavour by force or .stratagem to break the 126 circle, and make themselves masters of the child, n which the victory consists. But this attempt is by no means so easy as it may seem. The defenders make almost incredible efforts to keep themselves closely united, whence the besiegers are often compelled, by this obstinate defence, to relinquish the attempt through weariness. The palican, which the Spaniards call chueca, resembles the orpasto or spheromachia of the Greeks, and the calcio of the Florentines. This game has every appearance of a regular battle, and is played with a wooden ball, called pall, on a plain of about half a mile in length, the boun- daries of which are marked with branches of trees. The players, to the number of thirty, furnished with sticks curved at the end, arrange themselves in two files, disposed in such a manner that each of them stands opposite to his adver- sary ; when the judges appointed to preside at the game give the signal, the two adversaries who occupy the eighth station advance, and with their sticks remove the ball from a hole in the earth, when each endeavours to strike it to- wards his party ; the others impel it forward or backward, according to the favourable or un- favourable course it is pursuing, that party ob- taining the victory to whose limits it is driven. From hence proceeds a severe contest between them, so that it sometimes happens that a single match requires more than half a day to finish 137 it. This game has its established laws,, which the judges oblige them very strictly to observe ; notwithstanding which, many disputes occur. The successful players acquire great reputation, and are invited to all the principal parties that are made in the country. When two provinces challenge each other, as frequently happens, this amusement becomes a public spectacle. An immense crowd of people collect, and bet very largely. The peasants of the Spanish provinces have introduced among this game, and their families, in reference to it, are divided into two parties called plazas and lampas. It has become one of their most favourite amusements, notwith- standing the proclamations issued from time to time by the government against all those who en- courage or promote it. What we have said of the Araucanians does not altogether apply to the Puelches, or inhabit ants of the fourth Uthalmapu, situated in the Andes. These, although they conform to the general customs of the nation, always discover a greater degree of rudeness and savageness of manners. Their name signifies eastern-men. They are of lofty stature, and are fond of hunt- ing, which induces them frequently to change their habitations, and extend their settlements j^ot only to the eastern skirts of the Andes, but «ven to the borders of the lake Nagzielguapi, 128 and to the extensive plains of Patagonia on the shores of the North Sea. The Araucanians hold these mountaineers in high estimation for the im- portant services which they occasionally render them., and for the fidelity which they have ever observed in their alliance with them. THE CIVIL HISTORY OF CHILI- BOOK III. CHAPTER T. The Araucanians attack the Spaniards under the conduct of Aillavalu, and afterwards that of Lincoyan; Valdivia makes incursions into their territory, and founds therein the cities of Im- perial, Villarica, Valdivia, and Angol, with several other places, rlHE Araucanians having resolved, as was mentioned. in the first hook, to send succours to the inhabitants of Penco, who were invaded by the Spaniards, gave orders to the To qui Aillavalu to march immediately to their assistance at the head of 4000 men. In the year 1550, that general passed the great river Bio-bio, which separates the Araucanian territory from that of the Pencones, and boldly offered battle to these VOL. II. k. 130 new enemies, who had advanced to meet him to the shores of the Andalien. After the first discharge of musketry, which the Araucanians sustained without being terrified or disconcerted, thus early manifesting how little they would regard it when rendered familiar by habit, Aillavalu, with a rapid movement, fell at once upon the front and flanks of the Spanish army. They on their part forming themselves into a square, supported by their cavalry, re- ceived the furious attacks of the enemy with their accustomed valour, killing a great number of, them, but losing at the same time many of their own men. The battle remained undecided for several hours. The Spaniards were thrown into some disorder, and their general was ex- posed to imminent danger, having had his horse killed under him, when Aillavalu, hurried for- wards by a rash courage, received a mortal wound. The Araucanians, having lost their general, with many of their most valiant officers, then retired, but "in good order, leaving the field to the Spaniards, who had no disposition to pursue them. Valdivia, who had been in many battles in Europe as well as America, declared that he had never been exposed to such imminent hazard of his life, as in this engagement ; and, much as- tonished at the valour and military skill of these people, he immediately set about constructing a 131 strong fortification near the city,, expecting shortly to be attacked again. In fact, no sooner were the Araucanians informed of the death of their general, than they sent against him ano- ther army still more numerous, under the com- mand of Lincoyan. This officer, from his gi- gantic stature, and a certain show of courage, had acquired high reputation among his com- panions in arms, but he was naturally timid and irresolute, and was much better suited for a su- baltern station than for that of commander in chief. The new Toqui, in the year 1551, formed his troops into three divisions, and marched to attack the Spaniards. Such was the terror inspired by the approach of the Araucanians, that the Spa- niards, after confessing themselves, and partaking of the sacrament, took shelter under the cannon of their fortifications. But Lincoyan finding the first attack unsuccessful, apprehensive of losing the army committed to his charge, ordered a precipitate retreat, to the great surprise of Valdivia, who, apprehensive of some stratagem, forbad his soldiers to pursue the fugitives. When it was discovered that the enemy had re- treated in good earnest, they began to consider their flight as a special mark of the favour of heaven, and, in the fervour of their enthusiasm, there were not wanting some who declared that they had seen the Apostle St. James upon a white k2 132 horse, with a flaming sword, striking terror into their enemies.* These declarations were readily believed, and the whole army, in consequence, unanimously agreed to build a chapel upon the field of battle, which a few years after was dedi- cated to that apostle. But this miracle, which is not entitled to greater credit from its having been so frequently repeated, proceeded alone from the circumspection and timidity of Lincoyan. The Spanish general, who was now in some measure freed from the restraint imposed upon * This Apostle appears to have been a very convenient per- sonage, and very ready with his aid upon all such occasions to the Spaniards of that period. Bernal Diaz, in his true history of the conquest of Mexico, in giving an account of a similar story, thus expresses himself with his peculiar naivete. " In Iris account of this action Gomara says, that previous to the arrival of the main body of the cavalry under Cortes, Fran- cisco de Morla appeared in the field upon a grey dappled horse, and that it was one of the holy apostles, St. Peter or St. Jago, disguised under his person. I say, that all our works and victories are guided by the hand of our Lord Jesus Christ, and that in this battle there were so many enemies to every one of us, that they could have buried us under the dust they could have held in their hands, but that the great mercy of God aided us throughout. What Gomara asserts might be the case, and I, sinner as lam, was not worthy to be permitted to see it. What I did see was Francisco de Morla riding in company with Cortes and the rest upon a chesnut horse, and that circumstance, and all the others of that day, appear to me, at this moment that I am writing, as if actually passing in the view of these sinful eyes.'4 : 133 him by the Araucanians, applied himself with great diligence to building the new city. Al- though he had fixed upon St. Jago for the capital of the colony, he nevertheless discovered a strong predilection for this maritime settlement, con- sidering it as the future centre of the communi- cation with Peru and Spain. Here he likewise intended to establish his family, selecting for his habitation a pleasant situation, and in the division of lands reserving for himself the fertile penin- sula lying between the mouths of the rivers Bio- bio and Andalien, and, as he fully expected in a short time to be able to subjugate the Arauca- nians, he had also resolved to ask of the court of Spain, in reward for his services, the two ad- jacent provinces of Arauco and Tucapel, with the title of Marquis. The building of the city having progressed rapidly under his inspection in a short time, he employed the remainder of the year in regulating- its internal police. For this purpose he pub- lished forty-two articles or statutes, among which are some that discover much prudence and hu- manity respecting the treatment of the natives, whom he left, however, as elsewhere, subject to the private control of the citizens. Believing that the courage of the Araucanians was now completely subdued, as, since (heir second un- successful expedition, they had made no attempt to molest him, he resolved to attack them in their *3 134 own territory, with a reinforcement that he had just received from Peru. With this intention, in the year 1552, he passed the Bio-bio, and proceeding rapidly through the provinces of Encol and Puren, unobstructed by the tardy operations of Lincoyan came to the shores of the Cauten, which divides the Arau- canian territory into two nearly equal parts. At the confluence of this river a d that of Damas, he founded another city, to which he gave the name of Imperial, in honour of the Emperor Charles the Fifth ; or, as is said by some, in consequence of rinding there eagles with two heads cut in wood, placed upon the tops of the houses. This city was situated in a beautiful spot, abounding with every convenience of life, and during the short period of its existence be- came the most flourishing of any in Chili. Its position on the shore of a large river of sufficient depth for vessels to lie close to the walls, ren- dered it a highly advantageous situation for commerce, and would enable it to obtain imme- diate succour in case of siege. Modern geo- graphers speak of it as a city not only existing at the present time, but as very strongly for- tified, and the seat of a bishopric, when it has been buried in ruins for more than two hundred years. Valdivia, intoxicated with this unexpected prosperity, displayed all that liberality which 135 frequently marks the conduct of those who find themselves in a situation to give away what costs them nothing. Exulting with his officers in the supposed reduction of the most valiant nation of Chili, he assigned to them, conditionally, the ex- tensive districts of the surrounding country. To Francis Villagran, his Lieutenant-General, he gave the warlike province of Maquegua, called by the Araucanians the key of their coun- try, with thirty thousand inhabitants.* The other officers obtained from eight to twelve thousand natives, f with lands in proportion, ac- cording to the degree of favour in which they stood with the general. He also dispatched Al- derete, with sixty men, to form a settlement on * After the death of Villagran, the province of Maquegua was partitioned anew among the conquerors, the principal part of it being assigned to Juan de Ocampo, and the other to Andreas Matencio ; but, in consequence of its recapture by the Indians, they reaped very little if any advantage from these connnand- eries. Ocampo afterwards obtained, as a reward for his dis- tinguished services, the Coiregidorate of the city of Serena, and that of Mendoza and St. Juan, in the province of Cujo ; in this last province was likewise granted him a commandery of Indians, which he afterwards ceded to the crown. He was from Salamanca, of a very illustrious family, a relation to the first bishop of Imperial, and one of the bravest officers that went from Peru to Chili. t Among those most in favour with Valdivia, was Pedro ' Aguilera, who received the gift of a commandery, containing from ten to twelve thousand Indians. K 4 136 the shore of the great lake Lauquen, to which he gave the name of Villarica, from the great quantity of gold that he found in its environs. In the meantime, having received fresh rein- forcements, he commenced his march towards the south, still kept in view by Lincoyan, who sought a favourable opportunity of attacking him, which his timid caution constantly prevented him from finding. In this manner the Spanish commander traversed with little loss the whole of Araucania from north to south, but on his arrival at the river Caliacalla, which separates the Araucanians from the Cunches, he found the latter in arms determined to oppose his passage. While he was deliberating what measures to pursue, a woman of the country, called Becloma, either from interested motives or a real desire to pre, vent the effusion of blood, came to him and pro- mised to persuade her countrymen to withdraw. In consequence, having passed the river, she ad- dressed the Cunchese general with such elo- quence in favour of the strangers, that, without ioreseeing the consequences, he permitted them to pass unmolested. The Cunches are one of the most valiant nations of Chili. They inhabit that tract of country which lies upon the sea be- tween the river Calacalla, at present called Val- divia, and the Archipelago of Chiloe. They are the allies of the Araucanians, and mortal enemies to the Spaniards, and are divided into several 137 tribes^ which, like those in the other parts of Chili, are governed hy their respective Ulmenes* The Spanish commander, having passed the liver with his troops, founded upon the southern shore the sixth city, which he called Val- divia, being the first of the American con- querors who sought in this manner to perpetuate his family name. This settlement, of which at present only the fortress remains, in a few years attained a considerable degree of prosperity, not only from the superior fineness of the gold dug in its mines, which has obtained it the privilege of a mint, but from the excellence of its harbour, one of the most secure and pleasant in the South Sea. The river is very broad, and so deep that ships of the line may anchor within a few feet of the shore ; it also forms several other harbours in the vicinity. Vaklivia, satisfied with the conquests or rather incursions that he had made, turned back, and in repassing the provinces of Puren, Tucapel, and Arauco, built in each of them, in 1 553, a fortress, to secure the possession of the others, as he well knew that from these provinces alone he had to apprehend any attempt that might prove fatal to his settlements. Ercilla says that, in this expe- dition, the Spaniards had to sustain many battles with the natives, which is highly probable, as the continuance of Lincoyan in the command can upon no other principle be accounted for. r> 138 But these actions, ill-conducted through the cowardly caution of the general, were very far from checking the torrent that inundated the provinces. Without reflecting upon the imprudence of occupying so large an extent of country with so small a force, Valdivia had the farther rashness on his return to Santiago to dispatch Francis de Aguirre, with two hundred men, to conquer the provinces of Cujo and Tucuman, situated to the east of the Andes. It is true that about this time he received by sea from Peru a considerable body of recruits, and 350 unmounted horses, but this reinforcement was little, compared to the vast number of people necessary to retain in subjection. Nevertheless, indefatigable in the execution of his extensive plans, which bore a flattering ap- pearance of success, the Spanish general returned to Araucania, and in the province of Encol founded the seventh and last city, in a country fertile in vines, and gave it the name of the City of the Frontiers. This name, from events which could not possibly have been in the calculation of Valdiviai has become strictly applicable to its present state, as its ruins are in reality situated upon the confines of the Spanish settlement in that part of Chili. It was a rich and com- mercial city, and its wines were transported to Buenos Ayres by a road over the Cordilleras. 139 The Encyclopedia contains a description of this place under the name of Angol, which it was afterwards called by the Spaniards, and speaks of it as at present existing. After having made suitable provisions for this colony, Valdivia returned to his favourite city of Conception, where he instituted the three prin- cipal military offices, that of quarter- master- general, of serjeant-major, and of commissary, a regulation that has ever since prevailed in the royal army of Chili.* He then sent Alderete to Spain with a particular account of his conquests,, and a large sum of money, and commissioned him to use his utmost exertions to obtain for him the perpetual government of the conquered coun- trv, with the title of Marquis of Arauco. At the same time he dispatched Francis Ulloa with a ship to examine the Straits of Magellan, by which he hoped to open a direct communication with Europe, without depending upon Peru. * But two of these offices at present exist ; that of the quarter-master-general, who is also called the Intendant, and resides in the city of Conception; and that of the serjeant- major — the latter has been since divided into two, one for the cavalry, the other for the infantry. That of commissary is only known in the city militia. 140 CHAP. II. Caupolicaii appointed To qui ; He attacks the- Forts of Arauco and of Tucapel; The Spanish Army entirely defeated, and Valdivia slain. Whilst Valdivia was engrossed in the contem- plation of his extensive plans, without suspecting the cruel reverse that fortune was preparing for him, an old Ulnien of the province of Arauco, called Colocolo, animated with the love of his country, quitted the retirement to which he had long before betaken himself, and with indefati- gable zeal traversed the Araucanian provinces, exciting anew the courage of his countrymen, rendered torpid by their disasters, and soliciting them to make choice of a general capable of dis- lodging the Spaniards from the posts they had occupied in consequence of the improper con- duct of Lincoyan. This chief had acquired throughout the country the reputation of wis- dom, and was well versed in the knowledge of government ; his great age and experience had procured him the esteem of the whole nation, and they had always recourse to him on occa- sions of the greatest importance. The Ulmenes, who were alreadv of the same 141 opinion, immediately assembled, according to their custom, in a meadow, and, after the usual feast, began to consult upon the election. Many aspired to the glory of being the avengers of their oppressed country, among whom Andali- can, Elicura, Ongolmo, Renco, and Tucapel, were particularly distinguished. The latter, who by his martial prowess had given his name to the province of which he was Apo-XJlmen, pos- sessed a powerful party, but the more prudent electors were opposed to his appointment, as he was of an impetuous character, and they dreaded his hastening the ruin of the state. Dissentions ran so high, that the opposite parties were on the point of having recourse to arms, when the venerable Colocolo arose, and, by a well- timed and energetic address, so far pacified their irritated minds, that all, with one accord, sub- mitted to his choice the appointment of a com- mander. The wise old man, on whom every eye was fixed, named, without hesitation, Cau- polican, the Ulmen of Pilmayquen, a district of Tucapel, who, with that modesty that marks a great character, had not offered himself as one of the candidates. All the nation applauded the choice of Colo- colo, as the person appointed was a serious, patient, sagacious, and valiant man, possessing, in short, all the qualities of a great general. His lofty stature, uncommon bodily strength, and 142 the majesty of his countenance, although de- ficient in an eye, gave an additional lustre to the inestimable endowments of his mind. Having assumed the axe, the badge of his authority, he immediately appointed the officers who were to command under him, among whom were all his competitors, and even Lincoyan himself; but the office of Vice Toqui he reserved for Mariantu, in whom he had the utmost confidence. The violent Tucapel, who aspired to the chief com- mand, did not disdain to serve under his vassal, manifesting by this, that the sole motive of his ambition was his wish to serve his country. The Araucanians, who considered themselves invincible under their new Toqui, were desirous of going immediately from the place of meeting to attack the Spaniards ; but Caupolican, who was no less politic than valiant, repressed this ardour with prudent arguments, advising them to provide themselves with good arms, in order to be in readiness at the first orders. He then reviewed his army, and resolved to commence his operations by a stratagem, which on the day of his expedition was suggested to him by acci- dent: Having that morning taken a party of eighty Indians, auxiliaries of the Spaniards, who were conducting forage to the neighbouring post of Arauco, he substituted in their place an equal number of his bravest soldiers, under the com- mand of Cajuguenu and Alcatipay, whom he di- 3 M 143 rected to keep their arms concealed among the bundles of grass, and to maintain possession of the gate of the fortress until he could come to their assistance with his army. The pretended foragers performed their parts so well, that without the least suspicion they were admitted into the fortress. Immediately they seized their arms, attacked the guard, and began to kill all that came in their way. The remainder of the garrison, under the command of Francis Reynoso, hastened, well armed, to the scene of tumult, opposed them vigorously, and after an obstinate contest, drove them from the gate at the very moment of the arrival of the Araucanian army ; so that they had but just time to raise the draw-bridge and hasten to the defence of the walls. Although Caupolican was disappointed in his expectations, he hoped, how- ever, to derive some advantage from the con- fusion of the enemy, and, encouraging his soldiers, assailed the fortress upon every side, notwith- standing the continual fire of the besieged from two cannon and six field pieces. But perceiving that he lost a great number of men, he resolved to turn the assault into a blockade, expecting to reduce the place by famine. After various unsuccessful sallies, in which they lost many of their companions, the Spaniards re- solved to abandon the fort, and retire to that of Puren, This measure had indeed become neces- 144 sarv, as their provisions began to fail, and they had no hope of being relieved. In pursuance of this plan, at midnight they mounted their horses, and suddenly opening the gate, rushed out at full speed, and escaped through the midst of their enemies; the Araucanians, who supposed it to be one of their customary sallies, taking no mea~ sures to obstruct their flight. Caupolican having destroyed this fortress, led his troops to attack that of Tucapel. This post was garrisoned by forty men, under the command of Martin Erizar. That distinguished officer defended himself valiantly for several days, but much weakened by the continual assaults of the enemies, and provisions failing him, he deter- mined to withdraw to the same fort of Puren, whither the garrison of Arauco had retreated, which he executed, either in consequence of a capitulation with Caupolican, or by an artifice similar to that which had succeeded so fortu- nately with the commander of Arauco. The Araucanian general having destroyed these fortresses, which caused him the greatest anxiety, encamped with his army on the ruins of that of Tucapel, to wait the approach of the Spaniards, who, as he supposed, would not be long in coming against him. No sooner had Valdivia, who was then in Conception, learned the siege of Arauco, when he began his march for that place, with all the forces that he could mm 145 collect in so short a time, in opposition to the advice of his most experienced officers, who ap- pear to have had a presentiment of what was to happen. The Spanish historians of that period, as they felt a greater or less desire of diminishing the loss of their countrymen, vary greatly in their accounts of the number of Spanish and Indian auxiliaries, who accompanied him in this unfor- tunate expedition. According to some, he had only two hundred of the first, and five thousand of the latter. Others reduce even this to only half the number. The same uncertainty is to be found in their accounts of the number of the ene- my, some making it amount to nine, and others to more than tenthousand. If both thehostile parties possessed historical documents, we might, from comparing their different accounts, probably ob- tain a tolerable accurate calculation, but the means of information we are obliged to have re- course to, are all derived from the same source. Nevertheless, on considering the important con- sequences of this battle, we are induced to be- lieve that the loss was much greater than is pre- tended. On approaching within a short distance of the enemy's encampment, Valdivia sent Diego del Oro forward to reconnoitre them with ten horse. This detachment falling in with an advanced party of the Araucanians, were all slain bythen*; vol. II. t 146 and their heads cut off and suspended to trees upon the road. The Spanish soldiers, on ar- riving at this spot, were filled with horror at the sight of such an unexpected spectacle, and not- withstanding their accustomed intrepidity, were solicitous to return. Valdivia himself began to regret his having disregarded the advice of his older officers, but piqued by the haughty boasts of the young, who, notwithstanding the mournful evidence before them, declared that ten of them were sufficient to put to flight the Araucanian army, he continued his march, and on the 3d of December, 1553, came in sight of the enemy's camp. The ruins of Tucapel, the well-regulated array of the hostile army, the insulting scoffs of their enemies, who in a loud voice called them robbers and impostors, filled the minds of the soldiers, accustomed to command and to be treated with respect, with mingled sentiments of indignation and terror. The two armies continued a long time ob- serving each other; at length Mariantu, who commanded the right wing of the Araucanians, commenced the combat by moving against the left of the Spaniards under the command of Bo- vadilla, who marched to attack fokn with a de- tachment, which was immediately surrounded, and all of them cut in pieces. The serjeant- major, who was dispatched by Valdivia to his assistance with another detachment, experienced _— 147 a similar fate. Meanwhile Tucapel, who com- manded the left wins: of the Araucanians, beo;an the attack upon his side with his usual impetu- osity. The action now became general ; the Spaniards, furnished with superior arms, and animated by the example of their valiant leader, who performed the duty of a soldier as well as that of a general, overthrew and destroyed whole ranks of their enemies. But the Araucanians, notwithstanding the slaughter made among them by the cannon and musketry, continued con- stantly to supply with fresh troops the places of those that were slain. Three times they retired in good order beyond the reach of the musketry, and as often, resuming new vigour, returned to the attack. At length, after the loss of a great number of their men, they were thrown into dis- order and began to give way. Caupolican, Tu- capel, and the intrepid Colocolo, who was pre- sent in the action, in vain attempted to prevent their flight and reanimate their courage. The Spaniards shouted vietor}T, and furiously pressed upon the fugitives. At this momentous crisis, a young Araucanian of but sixteen years of age, called Lautaro, whom Valdivia in one of his incursions had taken prisoner, baptized, and made . his page, quitted the victorious party, began loudly to reproach his countrymen with their cowardice^, and exhorted them to continue the contest, as ih® l2 14S Spaniards, wounded and spent with fatigue, were no longer able to resist them. At the same time grasping a lance, he turned against his late master, crying out, " Follow me, my country- men, victory courts us with open arms." The Araucanians ashamed at being surpassed by a boy, turned with such fury upon their enemies, that at the first shock they put them to rout, cutting in pieces the Spaniards and their allies, so that of the whole of this army, only two Pro- maucians had the fortune to escape, by fleeing to a neighbouring wood. The Spanish general having lost all hope, had retired in the beginning of the massacre with his chaplain, to prepare himself for death ; but being pursued and taken by the victors, he was brought before Caupolican, of whom, in an humble manner, he implored his life, soliciting the good offices of Lautaro, and most solemnly promising to quit Chili with all his people. The Araucaniangereral, naturally compassion- ate, and desirous of obliging Lautaro, who joined in soliciting him, was disposed to grant the re- quest. But while he was deliberating, an old Ulmen of great authority in the country, enraged to hear them talk of sparing his life, dispatched the unfortunate prisoner with a blow of his club ; saying, that they must be mad to trust to the promises of an ambitious enemy, who, as soon as he had escaped from this danger, would make a 149 mock of them, and laugh at his oaths. Caupo- lican was highly exasperated at this conduct* and would have punished it with severity had not the greater part of his officers opposed themselves to his just resentment. Such was the tragic fate of the conqueror, Pedro de Valdivia, a man unquestionably pos- sessed of a superior mind, and great political and military talents, but who, seduced by the ro- mantic spirit of his age, knew not how to employ them to the best advantage. His undertakings would have proved fortunate, had he properly es- timated his own strength, and, without being de- ceived by the example of the Peruvians, despised the Chilians less. History does not impute to him any of those cruelties with which his con- temporaries, the other conquerors, are accused. It is true, that in the records of the Franciscans, two of those monks are mentioned with applause for having, by their humane remonstrances, dis- suaded him from the commission of those cruelties that were at first exercised towards the natives of the country ; but this severity does not appear to have been so great as to have obtained the notice of any historian. He has been bv some accused of avarice, and they pretend that, in punishment of this vice, the Araucanians put him to death by pouring melted gold into his throat ; but this is a fiction copied from a similar stprv of antiquity. l3 (' 150 This victory, which was gained in the evening, was celebrated the day following with, all kind of games and diversions, in a meadow surrounded with large trees, to which were suspended as trophies the heads of their enemies. An immense crowd of people from the neighbouring country flocked thither to witness with their own eyes the destruction of an army which they had till then considered as invincible, and to join in the diver- sions of the festival. The officers, in token of victory, wore the clothes of their slain enemies, and Caupolican himself put on the armour and surcoat of Valdivia, which was embroidered with gold. _ 151 CHAP. III. The Spaniards abandon Puren, Angol, and ViU larica ; Caupolican lays siege to Imperial and Valdivia ; Lautaro defeats the Spanish army in Mariguenu, and destroys Conception. When the rejoicings were over, Caupolican^ taking the young Lautaro by the hand, presented him to the national assembly, which had met to concert measures for the further prosecution of the war, and after having spoken highly in his praise, attributing to him the whole success of the preceding day, he appointed him his lieu- tenant-general extraordinary, with the privilege of commanding in chief another army, which he intended to raise to protect the frontiers from the invasion of the Spaniards. This appointment was approved and applauded by all present, as Lautaro, besides the inappreciable service he had rendered his country, and the nobleness of his origin, being one of the order of Ulmenes, was endowed with singular beauty and affability, and possessed talents far surpassing his years. Their sentiments upon the operations of the next cam- paign were various. Coloeolo, with a great part of the Ulmenes, was of opinion that in the first l4 152 place they ought to free their country from the foreign establishments that were still remaining. ButTueapel, followed by the most daring of the officers, maintained, that in the present circum- stances they ought to attack the Spaniards im- mediately while in a state of consternation, in the very centre of their colonies, in the city of Santiago itself, and pursue them if it were pos- sible to Spain. Caupolican applauded the senti- ments of Tucapel, but adhered to the counsel of the elder chiefs, recommending it as the most secure and most beneficial for the country. Whilst they were deliberating upon these im- portant objects, Lincoyan, who was traversing the country with a detachment of troops, fell in with and attacked a party of fourteen Spaniards coming from Imperial to the assistance of Val- divia, of whose fate they were uninformed. These, in making head against the enemy, whom they soon expected to put to flight, regretted that their number was not reduced to twelve, in order to be able to style themselves, according to the chivalrous idea of the age, « the twelve of fame." But their wishes were soon more than fulfilled, for at the first encounter but seven of their company were left, who, taking advantage of the swiftness of their horses, escaped, severely wounded, to the fortress of Puren. Having brought with them the news of the total rout of Valdivia's army, the Spanish in- 153 habitants of the city of the Frontiers and of Puren, thinking themselves insecure within their walls, retired to Imperial. The same was the case with those of Villarica, who abandoned their houses, and took refuge in Valdivia. Thus had the Araucanians only these two places to at- tack. Caupolican having determined to besiege them, committed to Lautaro the care of defending the northern frontier. The young Vice Toqui fortified himself upon the lofty mountain of Mariguenu, situated on the road which leads to the province of Arauco, supposing, as it hap- pened, that the Spaniards, desirous of revenging the death of their general, would take that road iu search of Caupolican. This mountain, which on several occasions has proved fatal to the Spa- niards, has on its summit a large plain inter- spersed with shady trees. Its sides are full of clefts and precipices ; on the part towards the west the sea beats with great violence, and at the east it is secured by impenetrable thickets. A winding bye-path on the north was the only road that led to the summit of the mountain. In the meantime, the two Promaucians who had alone escaped the destruction of the Spanish army, having reached Conception, filled that city with the utmost consternation. As soon as the general terror had a little subsided, the ma- gistrates proceeded to open the instructions of ■H m - 154 Valdivia, which he had left with them at his de- parture. In these he had named as his successors in the government in the event of his death, Al- derete, Aguirre, and Francis Villagran. But the first being absent in Europe, and the second id Cujo, the supreme command devolved upon Villagran. This general, who possessed more prudence than Valdivia, after making the neces- sary preparations, began his march for Arauco, with a considerable number of Spanish and auxi- liary forces. He crossed the Bio-bio without opposition,, hut at a little distance from thence, in a narrow pass, he encountered a body of Araucanians, by whom he was vigorously opposed. But after a severe action of three hours they were defeated and withdrew, constantly fighting towards the summits where Lautaro, defended by a strong palisade, awaited their approach with the residue of his army. Three companies of the Spanish horse were ordered to force the difficult passage of the mountain, and having, after great labour and fatigue, arrived within a short distance of the summit, they were received with a shower of stones, arrows, and other missive weapons, which were incessantly poured upon their heads. Vil- lagran, ia the meantime, perceiving that several parties were detached from the camp of the enemy, with an intention of surrounding him. — 155 ordered the musketry to advance, and the fire to commence from six field pieces, which he had placed in a favourable situation to annoy them. The mountain was covered with smoke, and resounded with the thunder of the cannon and the whistling of bullets that fell upon every side. But Lautaro, in the midst of this confusion, firmly maintained his post ; and perceiving that his principal loss proceeded from the cannon, he directed Leucoton, one of his bravest captains, to go with his company and take possession of them, commanding him at the same time, with an authority derived more from his high reputation than his office, not to venture to see him again until he had executed the order. That valiant officer, in (lefiance of death, rushed with such violence upon the corps of artillery, that after a furious and bloody contest, he carried off all the cannon in triumph. In the meantime Lautaro, to prevent the Spa- niards from sending succours to their artillery, attacked them so vigorously with all his troops, that, driving horse and foot in confusion before him, the Spaniards were thrown into disorder, and unable to recover their ranks, precipitately betook themselves to flight. Of the Europeans and their Indian allies, three thousand were left dead upon the field. Villagran, having fallen, was on the point of being taken prisoner himself, when three of his soldiers, by almost incredible II 156 feats of valour, rescued him from the hands of his enemies, and remounted him on his horse. The remaining Spaniards, pursued by the victors, spurred on their exhausted horses, in order to pass the narrow defile where the battle had com- menced, but on their arrival they found it ob- structed, by the order of Lautaro, with the trunks of fallen trees. Here the engagement was again renewed with such violence, that not one of the miserable remains of this broken army would have escaped, had not Villagran, by a desperate effort, opened the pass at the most im- minent hazard of his life. The Araucanians, although they had lost about seven hundred men, continued the pursuit for a long time; but at length becoming extremely fatigued, and not able to keep up with the horses, they stopped with a determination of passing the Bio-bio the following day. The few Spaniards who escaped the slaughter produced, on their arrival at Conception, inde- scribable sorrow and consternation. There was not a family but had the loss of some relation to deplore. The alarm was greatly heightened by the news of the near approach of Lautaro. Vil- lagran, who thought it impossible to defend the city, embarked precipitately the old men, the women and the children, on board of two ships that were then fortunately in the harbour, with orders to the captains to conduct part of them to 157 Imperial, and part to Valparaiso ; while with the rest of the inhabitants he proceeded by land to Santiago. Lautaro, on entering the deserted city, found in it a very great booty, as its commerce and mines had rendered it very opulent, and the citizens more attentive to save their lives than their riches, had on their departure taken scarcely any thing with them except a few provisions. After having burned the houses aud razed the citadel to its foundation, the victor returned with his army to celebrate his triumph in Arauco. 158 CHAP. IV. Vtllagran raises the siege of Imperial and of Valdivia ; The small-pox break out among the Araucanians ; Conception having been rebuilt, Lautaro returns and destroys it ; He marches against Santiago, and is killed. Meanwhile the commanders of the cities of Imperial and Valdivia, closely besieged by Can- polican, demanded succours of the governor, who, notwithstanding his late losses, failed not to send them, with all possible speed, a sufficient number of troops for their defence. The Arau- eanian general, believing it difficult under such circumstances to possess himself of those places, raised the siege, and went to join Lautaro, to at- tempt with their combined forces some other en- terprise of greater importance. Villagrao, availing himself of the absence of the enemy, ravaged all the country in the vicinity of Imperial, burned the houses and the crops, and transported to the city all the provisions that were not destroyed, Such rigorous measures he vindicated by the pretended rights of war, but they usually produce no other effect than that of distressing the weak and the helpless. In other 4 159 respects he was humane, and averse to violence, and his generosity was acknowledged even by his enemies. During his government, no one was ill treated or put to death except in the field of battle. To the terrible calamities that usually follow in the train of war, was added that of the pesti- lence. Some of the Spanish soldiers, who were either infected at the time, or had but recently recovered from the small-pox, in the above in- cursions made by Villagran, communicated for the first time that fatal disease to the Araucanian provinces, which made there the greater ravages^ as they were entirely unacquainted with it. Of the several districts of the country there was one whose population amounted to twelve thousand persons, of which number not more than one hundred escaped with life.* This pestilential * The following anecdote will show the horror with which the small-pox inspired the Indians : " Some time since, the viceroy of Peru sent as a present to the governor, Juan Xara- quemada, from Lirai to Chili, several jars of powder, honey, wine, olives, and different kinds of seed ; one of these being accidentally broken in unlading, the Indians who were in the service of the Spaniards having noticed it, imagined that it was the purulent matter of the small-pox, which the governor had imported in order to disseminate among their provinces, and exterminate them by this means. They immediately gave notice to their countrymen, who stopped all communication and took up arms, killing forty Spaniards who were among them in full security of peace. The governor, to revenge this 160 disorder, which from its long continuation has been more fatal than any other to the human race, had been a few years before intro- duced into the northern parts of Chili, where it has since from time to time re-appeared, attended with great mortality to the natives. The southern provinces have for more than a century been exempted from its ravages, by the precautions employed by the inhabitants, to prevent all com- munication with the infected countries, as is the case with the plague in Europe. Whilst Villagran was employing all his at- tention, in maintaining as far as possible the Spanish power in those parts, and in opposing those victorious enemies who were endeavouring to annihilate it, he saw himself on the point of being compelled to turn his arms against his own countrymen. Francis Aguirre, who in Val- divia's instructions had been named the second as governor, on learning the death of that ge- neral, quitted Cujo, where it appears he effected nothing of importance, and with sixty men who were left of his detachment, returned to Chili, determined to possess himself of the government either by favour or force. His pretensions must outrage, entered the Araucanian territory, and thus, owing to the suspicion of these barbarians, was a war excited, which was continued until Don Alonzo de Rivera returned a second time to assume the government of the kingdom."— Jeronimu Quirogas Memoirs of the War of Chili, chap. 74, 161 infallibly have produced a civil war between Villagran and himself, with great detriment to the success of the Spaniards, had they not both consented to submit their claims to the de- cision of the Royal Audience of Lima. This court, whose jurisdiction at that time (1555) extended over the whole of South- America, did not think proper to commit the government to either, but in their place directed that the Cor- regidors of the cities should have the command each in his respective district, until farther orders. The inhabitants, perceiving the inconveniences that must result from this poliarchy, especially in time of war, sent a remonstrance to the Court of Audience, who hearkened to their reasons, and appointed Villagran to the command, as more experienced in the business of the kingdom than Aguirre, but conferred on him only the title of Corregidor, ordering him at the same time to re- build the city of Conception. Although he was convinced of the inutility of this measure, yet, to evince his obedience, he proceeded thither im- mediately with eighty-five families, whom he established there, and defended with a strong fortification. The natives of the country, indignant to be rendered again subject to a foreign yoke, had re- Course to their protectors, the Araucanians. Caupolican, who, during this interval either ihrough ignorance of the proceedings of the yo'l. if, , m 162 Spaniards or for some other reason of which w3 are not informed, had not left his encampment, sent to their assistance two thousand men under the command of Lautaro, who' was well expe- rienced in such expeditions. The young general, exasperated against what he had termed obstinacy, passed the Bio-bio without delay, and attacked the Spaniards, who, imprudently confiding in their valour, awaited him in the open plain „ The first encounter decided the fate of the battle. The citizens, struck with terror, returned to the fort with such precipitation as not even to have an opportunity of closing the gate. The Arau- canians entered with them, and killed a great number. The remainder were dispersed, part of them embarking in a ship which was in the port, and part taking refuge in the woods, whence by ibye-paths they returned to Santiago. Lautaro, having plundered and burned the city as before, returned laden with spoils to his wonted station; The success of this enterprise excited Caupo- lican to undertake once more the sieges of Im- perial and Valdivia. The glorious exploits of his Lieutenant stimulated him to attempts of greater importance, and such as were worthy of the supreme command, Laufaro undertook to make a diversion of the Spanish forces, by march- ing against Santiago, as the capture of this city appeared to him an enterprise of not much diffi- cult v, not with standing its great distance. lib 163 Continued victories had so heightened his con- fidence, that nothing appeared to him impossible to be overcome. In order to carry into effect this hazardous en- terprise, he required but five hundred men,, to be Selected by himself; but those who pressed to march under his standard were so numerous, that he was compelled to receive another hun- dred. The two generals then separated amidst the joyful acclamations of the nation,, who, thoughtless of the reverses of fortune, flattered themselves with the most fortunate issue to their expeditions. Lautaro, at the head of his six hundred com- panions, traversed all the provinces lying between the Bio-bio and the Maule, without doing the least injury to the natives, who called him their deliverer. But when he had passed this last river, he began cruelly to lay waste the lands of the hated Promaucians, whom, had he then treated with kindness, he would have detached from the Spanish interest, and united to his party. But the intemperate desire of revenge did not allow him to foresee the good effects that this opportune reconciliation might produce to the common cause. After having taken revenge, in some measure, upon these betrayers of the country as he called them, he fortified himself in their territory, in aa advantageous post, situated on the shore of the m2 1 164 Hio-claro, with the view, most probably, of gaining- more correct information of the state of the city he intended to attack, or to await there the coming of his enemies, and to cut them off from time to time. This ill-timed delay was very important to the inhabitants of Santiago, who, when they were first informed of his ap- proach, could not believe it possible that he should have the boldness to make a journey of three hundred miles in order to attack them. But undeceived by the refugees of Conception, whom fatal experience had too well taught the enterprising character of this mortal enemy of Spain, they thought proper to make some pre- parations for defence. With this view they first dispatched Juan Godinez, with twenty-five horse- men, to the country of the Promaucians, in order to learn if the information they had received was true, to watch the motions and discover the designs of the enemy, and to send back im- mediate intelligence. He was, however, able to execute but a part of his commission ; for, being unexpectedly attacked by a detachment of the Araucanians, lie returned precipitately, with his men diminished in number and filled with con- sternation, to bring the news. The victors took upon this occasion ten horses and some arms, which they made use of in the succeeding actions. The Corregidor, who was at that time siek, gave orders to his eldest son, Pedro, to 165 marcli with such troops as he could raise against Lautaro, and proceeded to fortify the city in the besl manner possible, guarding all its approaches with strong works. Pedro in the meantime at- tacked the Araucanians in their entrenchments, who, instructed by their commander, after a short resistance pretended to take flight; but no sooner had their enemies entered the abandoned enclosure, than they turned and fell upon them with such impetuosity, that they entirely routed them, and the cavalry alone were able to save themselves from slaughter. Young Villagran, receiving new reinforce- ments, returned three times to the attack of Lau- iaro's camp, but being constantly repulsed with loss, he encamped his army in a low meadow, on the shore of the M ataquito. The Araucaniah general, who occupied a neighbouring mountain, formed the plan of inundating at night the Spanish encampment, by turning upon them a branch of the river. But this bold design, which would have ensured the destruction of the Spaniards, failed of success, as Villagran, being informed of it by a spy, retired, a short time before it was carried into execution,, with his army to Santiago* The elder Villagran having recovered his health, and being strongly solicited by the citi- zens,who every moment expected to see the Arau- canians at their gates, at length, in 1556, began 166 his march with 196 Spaniards and 1000 auxili- aries in search of Lautaro. But too well re- membering the defeat of Mariguenu, he re- solved to attack him by surprise. With this intent he quitted the great road, secretly directed his march by the sea shore, and, under the guidance of a spy by a private path came at day break upon the Araucanian encampment. Lautaro, who at that moment had retired to rest, after having been upon guard, as was his custom during the night, leaped from his bed at the first alarm of the sentinels, and ran to the intrenchments to observe the enemy. At the same time a dart, hurled by one of the Indian auxiliaries, pierced his heart, and he fell lifeless in the arms of his companions. It would seem that fortune, hitherto propitious, was desirous by so sudden a death to save him from the mor- tification of finding himself for the first time in his life defeated. It is, however, not impro- bable that his genius, so fertile in expedients, would have suggested to him some plan to have baffled the attempts of the assailants, if this fatal accident had not occurred. Encouraged by this unexpected success, Vil- lagran attacked the fortification on all sides, and forced an entrance, notwithstanding the obstinate resistance of the Araucanian s, who, retiring to an an< ' cut e of tlie works, determined rather to be pieces than to surrender themselves ttf m those who had slain their beloved general. In yam the Spanish commander repeatedly offered them quarter. None of them would accept it excepting a few of the neighbouring Indians^ who happened accidentally to be in their camp. The Araucanians perished to the last man, and fought with such obstinacy that they sought for death by throwing themselves on the lances of their enemies. This victory, which was not obtained without great loss by the victors, was celebrated for ihree days in succession in Santiago, and in the •other Spanish settlements, with all those demon- strations of joy customary upon occasions of £he greatest success. The Spaniards felicitated themselves on being at last freed from an enemy* who at the early age of nineteen had already ob- tained so many victories over their nation, and -who possessed talents capable of entirely de- stroying their establishments in Chili, and even harassing them in Peru, as he had resolved upon when he had restored the liberty of his native country. As soon as the terror inspired by this young hero had ceased with his life, the sentiments of hostility, as almost always happens, were suc- ceeded by those of generosity. His enemies .themselves highly applauded his valour and .military talents, and compared him to the most m 4 an I 168 celebrated generals that have appeared in the world. Thej even called him the Chilian Han- nibal, from a fancied resemblance between his character, and that of the famous Carthaginian general, although, in some respects, it had a much greater similarity to that of Scipio. To use the words of the Abbe Olivarez— « It is not just to depreciate his merit whom, had he been ours, we should have elevated to the rank of a hero. If we celebrate with propriety the martial prowess of the Spanish Viriatus, we ought not to obscure that of the American Lau- taro, when both contended with the same valour in the cause of their country." The Araucanians for a long time lamented the loss of their valiant countryman,, to whom they owed all the success of their arms, and on whose conduct and valour they entirely relied for the recovery of their liberties. His name is still celebrated in their heroic songs, and his actions proposed as the most glorious model for the imitation of their youth. But above all; Caupolican felt this fatal loss : As he was a sincere lover of his country, far from thinking he was freed from a rival, he believed he had lost his chief co-operator in the glorious work of restoring it to freedom. As soon as he re- ceived the mournful news, he quitted the siege of Imperial, which was reduced to the last ex- 169 iremity, and returned with his army to the fron- tiers to protect them from the incursions of the enemy, who, he had learned from his spies, ex- pected a large supply of men and warlike stores from Peru^ with a new commander. 170 CHAP. V. Jjon Garcia de Mendoza arrives at Chili with a reinforcement of troops; His expedition against Canpolwan. Philip the Second, who had succeeded his fa- ther, Charles the Fifth, on the throne of Spain, having- learned the death of Valdivia, gave in charge to his agent Alderete, the government and the conquest of Chili, furnishing him for this purpose with six hundred regular troops. During the passage his sister, who was accus- tomed to read in bed, set fire by accident to the ship in the vicinity of Porto-Bello. Of the whole number, Alderete and three soldiers were all that escaped, and he himself soon after, over- come with grief and disappointment, died in the little island of Taboga, in the gulph of Panama. The Marquis of Canete, viceroy of Peru, being informed of this disaster, appointed to the vacant office his son Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza. But as this charge had now become very dangerous, he resolved that at his departure he should be accompanied by a body of troops capable of supporting him., and acquiring him, IS 171 if possible, the glory of terminating with su serted through fear. The year before about three hundred Indians, lying back upon their horses, trailing their lances be- Mild them, in order to have it supposed that it was one of those droves of mares so common in those Pampas, appeared all at once before the post of Gutierrez ; but, supposing it strongly guarded, were deterred from attacking it, although they saw- but one man, who patroled the wall with his musket, and was indeed the only person in it. This man knew well that the horses were guided, by the order and coifrse they pursued, al- though he could see nothing of their riders till they had come very near. He had the prudence, however, not to fire at them, which probably led them to believe there was a greater force within the place, and induced them to abandon the en- terprise and vent their fury upon the unfortunate inhabitants of those plains. The commander of the post of Amatrain was joot so fortunate ; he was killed the same year with a negro who attended him . These posts are fortified with palisadess or with a mud wall, and have a ditch and a draw-bridge,, nt disposition, these people are the most industrious and commercial of any of the savages. When in their tents they are never idle. The women weave cloths of various colours ; the men occupy themselves in making baskets and a variety of beautiful articles of wood, feathers, or skins; which are highly prized hj their neighbours. They assemble every year on the Spanish frontier/ where they hold a kind of fair that ususally continues for fifteen or twenty days. Hither they bring fossil salt, gypsum, pitch, bed-cover- ings, ponchos, skins, wool, bridle-reins beau- tifully wrought of plaited leather, baskets, wooden vessels, feathers, ostrich eggs, horses^ cattle, and a variety of other articles ; and re- ceive in exchange, wheat, wine, and the manu- factures of Europe. They are very skillful in traffic, and can with difficulty be overreached. For fear of being plundered by those who be- lieve that any thing is lawful against infidels, they never all drink at the same time, but sepa- rate themselves into several companies, and while some keep guard the others indulge themselves in the pleasures of wine. They are generally humane, complacent, lovers of justice, and possess all those good qualities that are produced or perfected by commerce. The Chiquillanians, whom some have erro- neously supposed to be apart of the Pehuenches, live to the north-east of them, on the eastern «3 ■22B borders of the Andes. These are the most sa- vage, and, of course, the least numerous of any of the Chilians, for it k an established fact that the ruder the state of savage life, the more iir~ favourable is it to population. They go almost naked, merely wrapping- around them the skin of the guanco,* It is observable that all the Chi- lians who inhabit the eastern valleys of the Andes, both the Pehuenches, the Puelches, and the Huilliches, as well as the Chiquillanians, are much redder than those of their countrymen who $well to the westward of that mountain. All these mountaineers dress themselves in skins, paint their faces, live in general by hunting, and lead a wandering and unsettled life. They are no other, as I have hitherto observed, than the $o much celebrated.. Pataganians, who have oc- casionally been seen near the straits of Magellan, and ha-ve been at one time described as ffiants, and at another as men a little above the common stature. It is true, however, that they are, ge- nerally speaking, of a lofty stature and great ftrength. * The anonymous account of Chili published at Bologna hi speaking of this nation, observes, that their language is gut! tural, and a very corrupt jargon of the Chilian, im CHAP. IV. Government of the -Marquis dt Villar-lwrmosa ; His -Successes against Paynenancu .; Capture and Death of that General ; Enterprises of the To qui Cayancura and his Son Nangoniel ; Landing of the English in Chili ; Operations of the Toqui Cadegnala. As soon as information was received in Spain of the death of Quiroga, the king sent out as go- vernor to Chili, Don Alonzo Sctomayor, with six hundred regular troops, who, in 1583, landed at Buenos Ayres, and from thence proceeded to Santiago. He immediately sent his brother Don Louis, whom he appointed to the new office of colonel of the kingdom, to succour the cities of Villarica and Valdivia, which were hesieged by the Aiaucanians. That officer raised the sieges of those places after having twice defeated Pay- nenancu, who attempted to oppose his march. Notwithstanding these reverses the enterprising Toqui turned his arras against Tiburcio Heredia, and afttfwards against Antonio Galleguillos, who were- ravaging the country with a large body of dHalry ; by these he was likewise de- q 3 n 2S0 feated, but the victors paid dearly for their victory. In the meantime the governor, having driven off the Pehuenehes who infested the new settle- ment of Chilian, entered the Araucanian territory with seven hundred Spaniards, and a great number of auxiliaries, resolved to pursue the rigorous system of making war which had been adopted by Don Garcia, in preference to the mild and humane policy of his immediate predecessors. The province of Eocol was the first that expe- rienced the effects of his severity. He laid it en- tirely waste with fire and sword. Those who were taken prisoners were either hung or sent away with their hands cut off, in order to intimidate their countrymen. The provinces of Puren> Ilicura, and Tucapel, would have shared the same fate, if the inhabitants had not secured themselves hy flight before the arrival of the enemy, after setting on fire their houses and their crops. In the last province they took only three of the inhabitants prisoners, who were im- paled. Notwithstanding these severities, a num- ber of mustees and mulatioes joined the Arauca- nians, and even some Spaniards, among whom was Juan Sanchez,, who acquired great repu- tation. The Araucanian general, impelled either bv his natural audacity, or by despair, on finding himself fallen in the estimation of the native in- 4 231 habitants, opposed on the confines of the pro- vince of Arauco the whole Spanish army with only eight hundred men. They nevertheless fought with such resolution that the Spaniards were not ahle to break theni till after an ob- stinate contest of several hours, in which they lost a considerable number of men. Almost all the Araucanians were slain, Paynenancu himself was taken prisoner, and immediately executed. The victorious governor then rebuilt the fortress of Arauco, appointing the quarter-master Garcia liamon to command it, and encamped on the shore of the river Carampangui. The Araucanian valour, which had been de- pressed by the imprudent conduct of the mustee general, was excited anew by the elevation to that dignity, in 1585, of Cayancaru, one of their own countrymen, an Ulmen of the district of Mariguenu. One hundred and fifty messengers, furnished with symbolical arrows, were imme- diately dispatched to various quarters in search of aid. Every thing was put in motion, and in a short time a respectable army was assembled. The new Toqui determined to attack at mid- night the Spanish camp, which still occupied the post of Karampangui, of whose exact situation he wras informed by means of a spy. For this purpose he formed his army into three divsions, and gave the command of them to thme valiant officers, Lonconobal, Antulevu, and Tarochina, q 4 232 These divisions proceeded by three roads that led to the ca. p, and cut in pieces the ^.^ ancs, who were the first to oppose their pro- gress. Fortunately for the Spaniards, the moon ™mg at the moment of the assault, enabled them after a short period of confusion, in which they lost several of their men, to form themselves and make head against their assaiU ants, who, galled upon all sides by the musketry began at length to give way. The governor ax the same time, charging them with his band of veterans, succeeded in repulsing them, though not without great loss on both sides. Cayancura, who had halted at the entrance of the Span „h camp, in order to support the attack, fending his troops retiring exhausted and fe- igned, permitted them to rest the remainder of the night, and at day-break returned to the at- tack. The Spaniards came out to meet them in the open Held, and most obstinate and bloody was the battle that ensued. But, overpowered by the horse and artillery, the Araucanians were finally compelled to quit the field. The authors whom I have consulted satisfy themselves with observing that the victory cost the Spaniards dear, without specifying the number of the slain The governor himself calls it a bloody one in his patent to Nugno Hernandez. The greatest proof of his loss is, that immediately after the action he raised his camp, and retired to the frontiers, ■ 233- where he built two forts, that of Trinidad upon. the southern, and Spirito Santo upon" the northern shore of the Bio-bio, He also sent orders to the serjeant-major to raise as many recruits as pos- sible throughout the kingdom, who, in conse- quence, brought him two th. isand horse, and a considerable number of infantry. Notwithstanding his losses, the Araueanian general resolved to take advantage of the retreat of the governor to attack the fort of Arauco. In order to render more secure the success of the enterprise, 25 e endeavoured to divert the Spanish forces in every quarter. For this purpose he ordered Guepotan to make incursions in the territory of Villarica from the fort of Liben, where he had supported himself for several years. To Cadiguala, who was afterwards in- vested with the supreme command, he gave charge to harass the inhabitants of Angol ; and appointed Tarochina to guard the shores of the Bio-bio ; while Melilanca and Catipillan were sent against Imperial. .These officers had several encounters with the? Spaniards, attended with various success. Ggiepotan lost the fort of Li- ben, which was taken by the brother of the go- vernor, while Tarochina made himself master of a great number of boats on the Bio -bio, that were conducting supplies of men and warlike Stores to the forts newly erected upon that river. In 1586 Cayancura began his intended siege. 234 by surrounding the place with strong lines, so as not only to intercept all succours, but also to prevent the retreat of the garrison. From these preparations the besieged perceiving that they must finally be compelled to surrender or perish with hunger, thought it better to die with arms in their hands than to be reduced to this ex- tremity; they therefore attacked the enemy's works with such rigour, that after a dreadful combat of about four hours, they forced them, and put the Araucanians to flight. Cayancura' extremely mortified at the ill-success of his en' ierprise, retired to his Ulmenate, leaving the command of the army to his son Nangoniel, a youth of great hopes, and much beloved by the nation. The young commander immediately collected some companies of infantry, and a hundred and fifty horse, which from henceforward began to form a part of the Araucanian force, and re- turned to invest the same fortress, whose en- virons he so closely guarded, that the Spaniards, unable to procure a supply of provisions, were at length compelled to evacuate it Encouraged hy this good fortune, he proceeded against the fort of Trinidad which protected the passage of the enemy's supplies by the Bio-bio ; but having fallen in on the road with a division of Spanish troops, under the command of Francisco Her- nandez, he lost an arm in the contest, after bavins 335 received several other dangerous wounds. Thi misfortune obliged him to retire to a neighbour- ing mountain, where he was drawn into an am- bush by the serjeant-major, and slain with fifty of his soldiers, notwithstanding the great valour with which they defended themselves for a long time. The same day Cadeguala, who had ob- tained great reputation in the army for his courage and military skill, was proclaimed To qui by his officers. Whilst the Araucanians endeavoured to oppose the progress of the Spaniards in their country, the English also planned an expedition against them in that remote quarter. On the 21st of July, 1586, Sir Thomas Cavendish sailed with three ships from Plymouth, and in the following year arrived on the coast of Chili. He landed in the desert port of Quintero, and endeavoured to enter into a negociation with the natives of the country. But his stay there was but of short continuance ; he was attacked by Alonzo Mo- lina, the Corregidor of Santiago, and compelled to quit the coast with the loss of several of his soldiers aifd seamen. In the meantime Cadeguala, who had sigiml- ized the beginning of his command by several bold incursions, resolved to avail himself of this timely diversion to surprise the city of Angol> with some of whose inhabitants he maintained a a secret intelligence. By means of these agents I he prevailed upon those Chilians who were in the service of the Spaniards to set fire to the houses of their masters at. a certain hour of the night, when he would he ready with his army at the gates. The plan being accordingly executed, he entered the city amidst the confusion, occupied the several quarters of it with a thousand foot and a hundred horse, and began to make a dread- ful slaughter of the citizens, who, in nymg from the flames, fell into his hands. The garrison in vain attempted to oppose his progress; nor would any have escaped the sword on that fatal night, had not by good fortune the governor accidentally arrived there two hours before the attack. He immediately hastened at the head of his guard to the different places that were attacked, and with wonderful presence of mind collected the dispersed inhabitants, and conducted them to the citadel. From thence he sallied out with the most determined of them, and attacked the enemy, whom he obliged to retire at day-break. The Araucanians had become much less scrupulous than formerly in their mode of making war, for Cadeguala was not abandoned by any of his officers on this occasion, as Caupolican had been at Canete in his fraudful surprise of that city. Although this daring enterprise had not "been accompanied with the success which the Arau-' canian general expected, yet3 far from being dis- couraged by it, he undertook the siege of the 237 fortress of Puren, wliicli from its interior situation appeared more easy to be taken. He invested it regularly with four thousand men in four divi- sions, under the command of Guanaleoa, Caoio- taru, Relniuantu, and Curilemu, the most valiant officers of his army. The governor, on receiving information of the danger of the place, hastened to relieve it with a strong reinforcement, but Cadeguala advanced to meet him with a hundred and fifty lances, and opposed him with such vigour, that after along combat, in which several were killed, he compelled him. to retreat. Elated with this success, he proposed to the besieged, either to allow them to retire upon pa- role, or enter his service. These terms, which he pretended to consider as advantageous, were rejected with disdain. One person alone, called Juau Tapia, availed himself of the proffer, and went over to the Araucanians, by whom he was well received, anct advanced in their army. This plan proving abortive, Cadeguala determined to shorten the siege by a decisive blow. Re pre- sented himself before the walls on a superb horse which he had taken from the governor, and defied the commander of the place, Garcia Ramon, to single combat at the end of three days. The challenge being accepted, the intrepid To qui ap- peared at. the -time appointed in the field, with a small number'" of attendants, whom he placed §part. The Spanish commander came out to i 238 meet him with forty men, whom he likewise or- deied to remain at a distance. The two cham- p ns then putting spurs to their horses, .encoun- tered with such fury, that the first stroke decided the battle, Cadeguala falling to the ground, pierced through and through by the lance of his adversary; notwithstanding which, refusing to acknowledge himself vanquished, he endea- voured to remount his horse, but life failed him in the attempt. His soldiers ran to raise him and carried off the body, after a sharp contest with the Spaniards. The army then retired from the place, determined to return when they had elected a new chief ^39 CHAP. V. The To qui Guano alca takes the Forts of Purens Trinidad, and Spirito Santo ; Exploits of the Heroine Janequeo ; Battles of Mariguenu and Tucapel. The Araucanians soon returned to besiege the fort of Puren under their new Toqui Guanoalca, who, being informed by Tapia that the garrison was but ill supplied with provisions, and divided into two parties, had formed the most sanguine expectations of taking it. The result proved that he calculated correctly ; as the besieged, cut off from all external succour, and dissatisfied with the conduct of their officers, were not long in retiring to the city of Angol ; the Arauca- nians, with their usual policy, leaving the passage free, nor endeavouring to molest them in their retreat. Guanoalca immediately after marched against another fort which the Spaniards had a little be- fore constructed in the vicinity of Mount Mari- guenu ; but a considerable reinforcement having entered it shortly before, he resolved to employ his forces in another quarter where the prospect of success appeared more flattering. With this 140 view lie proceeded against the forts of Trinidad and Spirito Santo, upon the shores of the Bio-bio. The governor, apprehensive that he should not be able to defend them, or not considering them as of sufficient importance, evacuated them in 1583, and transferred the garrisons to another fortress, which he had directed to be built upon the river Puchanqui, in order to protect the city of Angol : So that the war now became in a great measure reduced to the construction and demolition of fortifications. The dictatorship of Guanoalca was rendered more remarkable by the military exploits of the heroine Janequeo than by his own. This woman was the wife of that valiant officer Guepotan, who for so long a time defended the post of Li- ben. After the loss of that important place he retired to the Andes, where he constantly endea- voured to stimulate those mountaineers to the defence of the country. Desirous of having his wife with him, he at length descended into the plains in search of her, but was surprised by the Spaniards, who were very solicitous to get him into their hands, and preferred being cut in pieces to surrendering himself prisoner. Jane- queo, inflamed with an ardent desire of avenging the death of her husband, in company with her brother Guechiuntereo, placed herself at the head of an array of Puelches, with which, in 1590, she began to make inroads upon the Spanish 3 Ml settlements, killing all of that nation that fell into her hands. The governor, reinforced by a regiment of soldiers, which he had received from Peru, set out upon his march against her ; but she, constantly occupying the highest ground, and attacking unexpectedly sometimes the van, and at others the rear of his army, obliged him to retire, after having lost, to no purpose, much time and a considerable number of men. As he was of opinion that rigorous measures were the best suited to quell the pride of the Arauca- nians, he gave orders, before his retreat, that all the prisoners taken in this incursion should be hung : Among these was one who requested to be hung upon the highest tree, in ordsr that the sacrifice which he made of himself to his coun- try should be more conspicuous to his country- men,' and inspire them with a stronger determi- nation to defend their liberties. Janequeo having defended herself thus success- fully against a general, who was unquestionably a good soldier, and had gained a high reputation in the wars of Italy, Germany, and Flanders, proceeded against the fortress of Puchanqtii, not far from which she defeated and killed Aranda, the commander, who had advanced to meet her with a part of the garrison. But not having been able to take the fort, she retired at the commencement of the rainy season to the mountains of Villarica, where she fortified her- TOL. II. R 'i 242 self in a place surrounded by precipices, which she deemed perfectly secure; from whence she daily infested the environs of that city in such a manner, that no one ventured to leave it. The governor, moved by the complaints of the citizens, sent his brother Don Louis to their aid, with the greater part of two reinforce- ments that he had lately received from Peru, under the command of Castillejo and Penalosa. The intrepid Janequeo awaited him valiantly in her retreat, repelling with great presence of mind the various assaults of the Spaniards ; until her soldiers being dispersed by the artillery, she saw herself obliged to provide for her safety by flight. Her brother was taken in attempting to escape, and obtained his life from the victors on condition of promising on oath to keep his sister quiet, and securing to them the friendship of his vassals and adherents ; but while this proposal was debated in a national council, he was killed by the Ulmen Catipiuque, who abhorred any kind of reconciliation. The old Toqui Guanoalca died at the close of this year, and in 1591, Quintuguenu, an enter- prising young man, and ambitious of glory, was appointed his successor. Having taken by assault the fort of Mariguenu, he encamped with two thousand men upon the top of that mountain, hoping, by some important victory, to render himself as celebrated there as Lautaro. The governor, undaunted by the recollection of the misfortunes which had befallen his countrymen in that ill-omened place, put himself at the head of one thousand Spaniards and a large number of auxiliaries, and immediately marched thither, resolving to dislodge the enemy, or at least to keep them besieged. After having given the necessary orders, he began at day-break to defile the difficult ascent of the mountain, leading the advanced guard in person, in front of which he had placed twenty half-pay officers, well experienced in this kind of war. Scarcely had he ascended half way, when he was attacked with such fury by Quintuguenu, that a general of less talents would have been driven headlong down with all his troops ; but, animating his men by his voice and example, he sustained for more than an hour the terrible en- counter of the enemy, till having gained step by step the level ground, he succeeded in forcing them into their entrenchments, without however being able to break their order. The Araucanians, mutually exhorting each other to die with glory, defended their camp with incredible valour until mid-day, when Don Carlos Irrazabal, after an obstinate resistance, finally forced the lines on the left with his com- pany. At the same time the quarter-master and Don Rodoiphus Lisperger, a valiant German officer, penetrated with their brigades in front a % V4 and on the right. Quintuguenu, although sur- rounded on every side, rendered for a long time the event of the battle doubtful. He main- tamed his troops in good order, and conjured them not to dishonour by an ignominious defeat a place that had so often witnessed the victories of their ancestors. Whilst be flew from rank to rank animating his men, and constantly con- fronting the enemy, he fell, pierced with three mortal wounds by the governor, who had singled him out and taken aim at him. The last word he uttered was an enthusiastic exclamation of liberty. On seeing him dead, a part of his soldiers in despair suffered themselves to be cut in pieces, and the rest betook themselves to flight. Almost all the auxiliaries were slain, but of the Spa- niards it is said that only twenty fell in the. battle ; of which number was a Portuguese knight of the order of Christ, who was slain in the beginning of the conflict. The governor, highly gratified with being the first conqueror of the Araucanians on the formi- dable Mariguenu, conducted his army to the jea shore, where he was saluted with repeated discharges of cannon from the Peruvian fleet, which, in scouring the coast in search of the English, had witnessed the victory. These de- monstrations of general joj^ were answered on the part of the army by frequent volleys of 245 musketry, and the customary military rejoicings. Availing himself of this opportunity, the go- vernor sent the quarter-master to Peru, on the re- turn of the fleet, in order to obtain the greatest possible reinforcement of troops to prosecute the war the ensuing campaign. In the meantime he abandoned the ancient situ- ation of the fortress of Arauco, and rebuilt it in -another more convenient upon the sea shore., where, in case of need, it could be more readily succoured. Coloeoio was lord of this district ; he was son to the celebrated Ulmen of that name, but of a disposition very different from that of his father. Indignant on seeing his lands occupied by the enemy, he endeavoured to drive them off, but being defeated and made pri- soner, he solicited and obtained his life, on con- dition of persuading his subjects, who had re- tired to the mountains, to submit to the Spanish government. These, on being urged by his wife Millayene to fulfil the promise of their chief, replied, that as his present misfortunes had been caused by love of his country, so ought he to endure them with a firmness worthy of his birth; that, stimulated by his example, they would confront all dangers to defend him, and to re- venge the outrages which he might suffer. The prince, irritated by this reply, devoted himself to the service of the Spaniards, and served them as a guide in the pursuit of his people. k3 246 At this period, 1592, there was among the Araucanians a Spaniard who had been made prisoner in one of the fornier battles, and who by his ingratiating manners had obtained the esteem and confidence of the principal men of the nation. This man, either from gratitude for the treatment he had received, or at the insti- gation of the governor, applied himself to effect a treaty of peace with great hopes of success ; but the preliminary conditions proposed by him not proving agreeable to either of the parties, all his endeavours were ineffectual. The governor, irritated at the ill success of his proposals, set out on his march with all his army for the pro- vince of Tucapel, laying waste with fire and sword all that fell in his way. Paillaeco, who had been elected To qui in place of Quintuguenu, thinking himself not suf- ficiently strong to oppose the enemy openly, re- solved to draw them into an ambuscade. For this purpose he placed a hundred men on horse- back at the entrance of a wood, within which he had concealed the remainder of his forces, with orders for them to counterfeit flight on the ap- pearance of the enemy. This scheme at first promised success ; the Spaniards pursued them, but discovering in time that it was only a stra- tagem, they turned back and pretended to fly themselves, in order to induce their enemies to quit the wood and attack them in the open field, 4 The Araucanians, not aware of the trick, ran into the snare, and being surrounded on every side, were almost all cut in pieces, together with their commander, after having sold their lives very dearly. The remainder took refuge in the marshes, where they secured themselves from the fury of the victors. These repeated victories, the cause of such exultation to the Spaniards, were but the pre- ludes of the severest disasters that they had ever experienced in Chili. It will, nevertheless, scarcely admit of a doubt that they must have cost much blood, since the governor, contrary to his custom, withdrew to Santiago after the last action, with the intention of awaiting there the reinforcements which he expected from Peru, and to raise as many recruits as possible in the northern provinces of the country. The rein- forcements were not long in arriving, but as they appeared to him insufficient to continue the war with advantage, he determined to go to Peru in person to solicit more considerable succours, committing in the meantime the command of the army to the quarter-master, and the civil go- vernment to the licentiate Pedro Viscarra. On his arrival at Lima he met with his successor in the government, who had been appointed by the court of Spain. This was Don Martin Loyola, nephew of St. Ignatius,* an officer of merit, who * The celebrated founder of the order of the Jesuits, m had acquired the favour of the viceroy Toledo by taking Tupac Amaru, the last Xnca of Peru' in the mountains of the Andes. This service not only obtained for him the government of Chili, but also the princess Clara Beatrix Coya in marriage, the only daughter and heiress of the Inca Sayri Tupac. He arrived at Valparaiso in 1593, with a respectable body of troops, and immediately proceeded to Santiago, where he was received With every testimony of joy by the citizens. ' M9 CHAP. VI. The ' To qui Paillamachu kills Loyola the Go- vernor, and destroys all the Spanish Settlements in Araucania. After the death of Paillaeco, the Araueanians appointed to the chief command the hereditary Toqui of the second XJthalmapu, called Pailla- machu, a man of a very advanced age, but of wonderful activity. Fortune/commonly supposed not to be propitious to the old, so far favoured his enterprises, that he surpassed all his pre- decessors in military glory, and had the singular felicity of restoring his country to its ancient state of independence. No sooner was he in- vested with the supreme power, than he appointed Pelantaru and Millacalquin, two officers not inferior to himself in merit, to the important charge of Vice Toqui, deviating in this instance from the established custom, which allowed only one lieutenant to the general. As the Arauca- nian force was, however, greatly diminished, he imitated the example of Antiguenu, and with- drew to the marshes of Lumaco, where he ap- plied himself to form an army capable of exe- cuting his extensive plans. 250 Loyola, after having regulated the police of the capital, proceeded to Conception in order to attend to the business of the war. Paillamachu took advantage of this opportunity to send an officer, under pretence of complimenting him, to obtain information of his character and de- signs. Antipilian, who was charged with this commission, showed himself worthy of the trust reposed in him by the general. In the frequent conferences which the governor held with him, he endeavoured to impress him with an idea of the great power and immense resources of his sovereign, insinuating the necessity of the Arau- canians coming to an accommodation. The am- bassador, pretending to be convinced by his rea- sonings, replied : « We are not ignorant of the power of your prince, which extends from the east to the west. But we are not to be despised, for although we are but a small people, we have nevertheless hitherto resisted his immense power. Your ideas respecting peace are very different from ours. By peace we understand an entire cessation of hostilities, which is to be followed by a complete renunciation on your part of any pretended right of controul over us, and the restoration of all those lands which you have oc- cupied in our territories. You, on the contrary, under that name, seek to subject us, to which we will never consent while we have a drop of blood left in our veins" 251 As the governor was of a generous disposition, lie could not but admire the noble sentiments of Antipillan, and dismissed him with the strongest demonstrations of esteem. But far from aban- doning the posts established in the Araucanian territory., he passed the Bio-bio in 1594, and founded a new city at a little distance from that river, to which he gave the name of Coya, in honour of the princess his wife. This he in- tended not only as a place of retreat for the in- habitants of Angol, which was in the vicinity, but also to protect the rich gold mines of Kila- coyan. He established therein a municipal ma- gistracy, and adorned it with several churches and monasteries ; and in order to render it more secure, constructed two castles in front of it, called Jesus and Chivecura, which protected both shores of the river. Paillamachu, solicitous of destroying this rising establishment, which reflected dishonour upon his command, in 1595 gave orders to Lon- cothequa, one of his captains, to take the fort of Jesus. This officer, after having burned one part of it, and twice penetrated into the other, was killed before he completed the enterprise. The Araucanian general began at length, in 1596, to harass with frequent incursions the Spanish districts, both to subsist his troops and habituate them to a military life. The Spanish army in vain went in pursuit of him ; he always i 252 took care to avoid it, resolving to reserve his force for a more favourable occasion. Finding no other means to restrain him, Loyola erected in the neighbourhood of his encampment two forts, one upon the ancient site of that of Puren, and the other on the very border of the marshes of Lumaco. These he garrisoned with the greater part of a reinforcement of troops which at that time he received from Peru, and sent the remainder, in 1597, to found an 'esta- blishment in the province of Cujo, under the name of St. Louis de Loyola, which still exisfs^ although in a miserable condition, notwithstand- ing the advantages of its situation. Paillamachu soon took by storm the fortress of Lumaco, and gave the charge of reducing that of Puren to Pelantaru and Millacalquim Having in ten days reduced the garrison to ex- tremity, these officers, agreeably to (he instruc- tions of their general, retired on the arrival of a reinforcement of Spaniards under the command of Pedro Cortez, who had obtained great repu- tation in that war. The governor, nevertheless, shortly after arriving there with the rest of the army, ordered the fortifications to be demolished, and the garrison to be transferred to Angol* fearing to expose it to the fate of that of Lumaco' He then proceeded to Imperial, to secure that eity in the best possible manner against the- in- creasing strength of the enemy. 253 After having repaired the fortifications of Im- perial, and also those of Viilarica and Valdivia, he returned to the Bio bio under an escort of three hundred men, whom he ordered back as soon as he thought himself in a place of security, retaining with him, besides his own family, only sixty half-pay officers and three Franciscan friars. Paillamachu, who had secretly watched his mo- tions, and followed him with two hundred sol- diers, conceived this a favourable opportunity to put his designs in execution. Accordingly, find- ing him encamped in the pleasant valley of Ca- ralava, he fell upon him, while he was asleep, on the night of the %2d of November, 1598, and lulled him with all his retinue. It would seem that the Araucanian general had formed confi- dent hopes of the success of this bold enter- prise, since, in consequence of his previous in- structions, in less than forty-eight hours after this event, not only the Araucanian provinces but those of the Cunchese and Huilliches were in arms, and the whole of the country to the Archi- pelago of Chiloe. Every Spaniard who had the misfortune of being found without the garrisons was put to death ; and the cities of Osorno, Valdivia, Viilarica, Imperial, Canete, Angol, Coya, and the fortress of Aranco, were all at once invested with a close siege. Not content with this, Paillamachu, without loss of time, crossed the Bit -bio, burned the cities of Con- I 254 ception and Chilian, laid waste the provinces in their dependence, and returned loaded with spoil to his country. On the first receipt of this melancholy news at the capital, the inhabitants, filled with conster- nation, abandoned themselves to despair, and agreed with one voice to quit the country and retire to Peru. As they had, however, some confidence in Pedro de Viscara, they assembled in council, and obliged him to take upon him- self the government, till the court, on being made acquainted with the death of Loyola, should appoint some other. This officer, who was more than seventy years old, began his march for the frontiers in 1599, with all the troops that he could raise, and had the courage to cross the Bio-bio, and in the face of the besieging enemy, withdraw the inhabitants from Angol and Coya, with whom he repeopled the cities of Conception and Chilian. But his government continued only six months ; for the viceroy of Peru, on being informed of the perilous situation of Chili, sent Don Francisco Quinones thither as po- vernor, with a numerous reinforcement of sol- diers, and a large supply of military stores. This commander had several actions with Pail- lamachu on the northern shore of the Bio-bio, whither the Araucanians had gone with an in- tention of laying under contribution, or of ra- vaging the Spanish provinces ; but none of them 255 were decisive. The most celebrated was that of the plains of Yumbel. The enterprising Toqui being on his return, at the head of two thousand men, with a great number of animals which he had taken from the district of Chilian, Quinones attempted to cut off his retreat with an equal number, the most of whom were Europeans. The two armies advanced with equal resolution. The Spaniards in vain attempted to keep the enemy at a distance by a constant fire from eight field pieces and all their musketry. They very soon came to close quarters, and the battle was continued with incredible fury for more than two hours, till night parted the combatants, and Paillamachu, availing himself of the obscurity, repassed the Bio-bio. The accounts from whence our information is derived merely state in general terms, that a great number of the Araucanians were slain, and not a few of the Spaniards. The governor upon this occasion made a useless dis- play of severity, by ordering the prisoners to be quartered and hung upon the trees ; a proceeding highly disapproved by the most prudent of his officers, who, from motives of humanity or self- interest, advised him not to furnish the enemy with a pretext for retaliation. But his adhe- rence to the old maxim, of conquering by means of terror rendered him deaf to their remon- strances. The consequence of this engagement was the evacuation of the fort of Arauco and 256 the city of Canete, the inhabitants of which re- tired to Conception. In the meantime Paillamaclni was in constant motion ; sometimes encouraging bj his presence tiie forces that besieged the cities, at others ra- vaging the Spanish provinces beyond the Bio- bio, to the great injury of the inhabitants. Having learned that the siege of Valdivia had been raised, he secretly hastened thither with a body of four thousand men, consisting of in- fantry and horse, among whom were seventy armed with arquebuses, taken in the last engage- ments from the Spaniards. On the night of the 14th of November he passed the bi°oad river Calacaia or Valdivia by swimming, stormed the city at day-break, burned the houses, killed a great number of the inhabitants, and attacked the vessels at anchor in the harbour, on board of which many had taken refuge, who only effected their escape by immediately setting sail. After this he returned in triumph to join Miliacalquin to whom he had entrusted the guard of" the Eio-bio, with a booty of two million of dollars, all the cannon, and upwards of four hundred prisoners. Ten days after the destruction of Valdivia, Col. Francisco Campo arrived there from Peru with a reinforcement of three hundred men, but finding it in ashes, he endeavoured, though in- effectually, to introduce those succours into S 257 the cities of Osorrio, Villarica, and Imperial. Amidst so many misfortunes,, an expedition of five ships of war from Holland arrived in 1600 upon the coast of Chili, which plundered the island of Chiloe, and put the Spanish garrison to the sword. Nevertheless, the crew of the com- modore having landed in the little island of Talca, or Santa Maria, was repulsed with the loss -'of twenty-three of their men by the Arau- canians who dwelt there, and who probably sup- posed them to be Spaniards. Quioones, disgusted with a war which was far from promising a fortunate issue, solicited and obtained his dismission from the government. He was succeeded by the old quarter-master, Garcia Ramon, of whom much was expected, from his experience and long acquaintance with the enemy. But that very knowledge induced him to act on the defensive, rather than hazard that part of the kingdom which was still subject to Spain, although he had received a regiment of select troops from Lisbon, under the command of Don Franciseo Ovalle, father to the historian of that name. His government was, however, but of short duration. Alonzo Rivera, an officer who had rendered himself famous in the wars of the Low Countries, was sent out by the king as governor in his place, with a regiment of vete- rans. On assuming his office, he fortified with strong forts the shores of the Bio-bio, and greatly VOL, II. S 258 encouraged the inhabitants, who had not yet re- linquished the idea of quitting Chili. After a siege of two years and eleven months Villarica, a very populous and opulent city, fell at length, in 1692, into the hands of the Arau- canians. A similar fate, after a short interval, was experienced by Imperial, the metropolis of the southern colonies, which would have fallen some months before, had not its fate been pro- tracted by the courage of a Spanish heroine, called Ines Aguilera. This lady, perceiving the garrison to be discouraged and on the point of capitulating, dissuaded them from surrendering, and directed all the operations in person, until, a favourable opportunity presenting, she escaped by sea with the bishop and a great part of the inhabitants. She had lost during the siege her husband and brothers, and her valour was re- warded by the king with an annual pension of two thousand dollars. Osorno, a city not less rich and populous than the preceding, was not able much longer to resist the fate that awaited it. It fell * under the vio- * Modern as American history is, it lias had its full share of fable, and this city of Osorno furnished a subject for the last which has been invented. It is found in the twentieth volume of the Semanario Erudito. In this great effort of the natives of Chili to recover their country, Osorno resisted them vigorously, and held out for six months : at the end of that time the Spaniards repulsed the 259 lent efforts of the besiegers, who, freed from their attention to the others; were able to bring their whole force against it. Thus, in a period of little more than three years, were destroyed besiegers in a general assault, and compelled them to break up the blockade ; being however afraid of another attack, they retired about three or four leagues, to a peninsula at the south foot of the Cordillera, formed by the lake from which the river Bueno issues. Here they built a city and secured it on the isthmus with walls, bulwarks, moats, and draw-bridges : and here they remained and multiplied so as to form another city on the opposite side of the lake. They have plenty of boats. Their weapons are the lance, sword, and dagger ; but whether of iron or not, the person who discovered the existence of these cities, had not been able to learn. They use also the thoug and ball, and are greatly dreaded for their skill in throwing it j and they have artillery, but no muskets. The Indians call them AlCahuncas. Formerly they used to buy salt from the Pehuences, and even from the Indians who are under the Spanish government, which they paid for in silver ; and this occasioned a great demand for salt at the Spanish settlements, where an ox was then the price of a loaf : but lately this demand has ceased, for they have found salt in abundance. They have retained their dress, their complexion, and their beards. A year only before this account was written, a man from Chiloe got to the city gates before the bridge was drawn up, and knocked for admittance. The soldier who was upon guard told him to hasten back as fast as possible, for their king, he said, was a cruel tyrant, and would infallibly put him to death if he was taken ; he marvelled indeed that the Indians had let him pass thus far. This man was killed on his way back; but the news of his adventure reached Valdivia, and was fully believed there. It seems the people of these cities were under a grievous tyranny, and were therefore de- s3 260 all the settlements which Valdivia and his suc- cessors had established and preserved, at the ex- pense of so much blood, in the extensive country between the Bio-bio and the Archipelago of Chiloe, none of which have been since rebuilt, as what is at present called Valdivia is no more than a fort or garrison. The sufferings of the besieged were great, nor can the j scarcely be exceeded by those endured in the most celebrated sieges recorded in history. They were compelled to subsist on the most loathsome food, and a piece of boiled leather was considered as a sumptuous repast by the voluptuous inhabitants of Villarica and Osorno. The cities that were taken were destroyed in such a manner that at present few vestiges of tbem remain, and those ruins are regarded by the natives as objects of detestation. Although sirous of making their situation known to the Spaniards ; but the chiefs took every possible precaution to prevent this, and the Indians, who possessed the intervening country, were equally solicitous to prevent any intelligence of this state from reaching the Spanish settlements, because it would bring them farther into the land. This account is said to have been written in 1774, by Don Ignacio Pinuer, captain of infantry, and interpreter-general at Valdivia, and by him addressed to the president of Chili. The writer states that his thorough knowledge of the language of the natives, and his great intimacy with them, had enabled him, l>y the artful and persevering inquiries of eight and twenty years, to collect this information. — E, E. 261 great numbers of the citizens perished in the defence of their walls, the prisoners of all ranks and sexes were so numerous, that there was scarcely an Araucanian family who had not one to its share. The women were taken into the seraglios of their conquerors. Husbands were, however, permitted for the most part to retain their wives, and the unmarried to espouse the women of the country ; and it is not a little remarkable that the mustees, or offspring of these singular marriages, became in the subse- quent wars the most terrible enemies of the Spanish name. The ransom and exchange of prisoners was also permitted. By this means many escaped from captivity. Some, however, induced by love of their children, preferred to remain with their captors during their lives ; others, who ac- quired their affection by their pleasing manners, or their skill in the arts, established themselves ad- vantageously in the country. Among the latter were Don Basil io Roxas and Don Antonio Bas- cugnan, both of noble birth, who acquired high reputation among the natives, and have left in- teresting memoirs of the transactions of their own times. But those who fell into brutal hands had much to suffer. Paillamachu did not long enjoy the applause of his countrymen ; he died at the end of the year 1603, and was succeeded by ^lu- pecura, his pupil in the school of Lumacq. § 3 :i i 262 CHAP. VII. COMPRISING A PERIOD OF THIRTEEN YEAR?, PROM 1604 TO 1617. Second unfortunate Government of Garcia Ra- mon; Restoration of the Court of Royal Audi- ence ; Ineffectual Negotiation for Peace. Whilst Alonzo Rivera was wholly intent upon checking the progress of the victorious Arauca- nians^ he was removed from the government of. Chili to that of Tucuman, in consequence of having married the daughter of the celebrated Aguilera without obtaining the royal permission. Garcia Ramon, his predecessor., was appointed to succeed him, and received at the same time with his commission, a thousand soldiers from Europe, and two hundred and fifty from Mexico. As he was now at the head of an army of three thousand regular troops, besides auxiliaries, he returned to invade the Araucanian territories, and penetrated without much opposition as far as the province of Boroa, where he erected a fort^ which he furnished with a good number of 263. cannon, and a garrison of three hundred men, under the command of Lisperger. Huenecura waited till the retreat of the army to attack this new establishment. On his march thither he fell in with the commander Lisperger, who had left the fort with one hundred and sixty of his soldiers in order to protect a convoy, and cut in pieces the whole detachment. He then proceeded to the attack of the fort, which he assailed three times with great fury. The battle was continued with the utmost obstinacy for the space of two hours, but Egidius Negrete, who succeeded to the command in place of Lisperger, manifested in the defence so much valour and military skill, that the Araucanian general found himself under the necessity of converting the storm into a blockade, which was continued until the governor gave orders for the garrison to evacuate the place. After this the Spanish army proceeded to lay waste the enemy's country. For this purpose it was separated into two divisions, one under the command of the quarter-master, Alvaro Pineda, and the other under that of Don Diego Saravia. Huenecura, however, watching his opportunity, attacked and defeated them one after the other, and so complete was the rout, that there was not a single person who escaped death or captivity. Thus in a short time was that army, on which such flattering hopes had been founded, wholly §4 26k dispersed. In consequence of these disasters,, in 1608, the court of Spain issued orders,, that hereafter there should constantly be maintained on the Araucanian frontier a body of two thou- sand regular troops, for whose support an appro- priation of 292,279 dollars annually was made in the treasury of Peru. After having been suppressed for thirty-four years, the Court of Royal Audience was re- established on the 8th of September, 1609, in the city of St. Jago, to the great satisfaction of the inhabitants, since which period it has con- tinued to exist with a high reputation for justice and integrity. Ramon, who, by this new regu- lation, to the titles of governor and captain- general, "-had added that of president, returned and crossed the Bio-bio at the head of an army of about two thousand men. Huenecura ad- vanced to meet him in the defiles of the marshes of Lumaco. The battle was obstinate and bloody, and the Spaniards were in great danger of being entirely defeated; but the governor, placing himself in the front line, animated his troops so far that they at length succeeded in breaking the enemy. Shortly after this battle, on the 10th of August, 1610, he died in Con- ception, greatly regretted by the inhabitants, to whom he was much uncleared by his excellent qualities, and his long residence among them. He was also highly esteemed by the Arauca- %5 loians, whom he always treated, when prisoners, with particular attention, and a humanity that did him honour in that age. According to the royal decree establishing the Court of Audience, the government now de- volved upon the eldest of the auditors, Don Louis Merlo de la Fuente. About the same time, either from disease or in consequence of a wound that he received in the last battle, died the Toqui Huenecura. His suc- cessor was Aillavilu the Second, whom Don Ba- silio de Roxas, a contemporary writer, represents as one of the greatest of the Araucanian generals, and as having fought many battles with Merlo, and his successor Don Juan Xaraquemada; but he neither mentions the places where they were fought, nor any particulars respecting them. , Among the missionaries atlhat time charged with the conversion of the Chilians, there was a Jesuit called Louis Valdivia, who, perceiving that it was impossible to preach to the Arauca. Bians during the tumult of arms, went to Spain, and represented in the strongest terms to Philip the Third, who was then on the throne, the great injury done to the cause of religion by the con- tinuance of the war. That devout prince, who had more at heart the advancement of religion than the augmentation of his territories, sent orders immediately to the government of Chili to discontinue the war, and settle a permanent 266 peace with the Araucanians, by establishing the river Bio-bio as the line of division between the two nations. With a view to insure the more punctual execution of his orders, he also deterT mined to exalt the zealous missionary to the episcopal dignity, and commit to him the charge of the government of Chili ; but Valdivia re- fused to accept of anything except the privilege of nominating in his place a governor whose views were in conformity to his own. This was no other than Alonzo Rivera, who, as we have already observed, had been exiled to Tucuman. Satisfied with the prosperous issue of his voyage, Valdivia returned to Chili in 1612, with a letter from the king himself to the Araucanian congress, relative to the establishment of peace and the promotion of religion. Immediately on his arrival he hastened to the frontiers, and com- municated to the Araucanians by means of some prisoners whom he brought with him from Peru, the commission with which he was intrusted by the court. Aillavilu, who at that time held the. chief command, paid little attention to this iti* formation, considering it as merely a story in- vented for the purpose of deceiving and sur- prising him; but he soon after dying or resign- ing his office, his successor Ancanamon thought proper to inquire into the truth of the report. With this view he directed the Ulmen Carani- pangui to converse with Valdivia, and learn his proposals in an assembly of the Ulmenes. 267 The missionary, on being invited by tbat officer, repaired under the protection of the Ul- men Lancamilla to Nancu, the principal place in the province of Catiray, where, in the presence of fifty of those chiefs, he made known his business and the substance of his negotiation, read the royal dispatches, and entered into a long explanation of the motives of his voyage, which concerned the general good of their souls. The assembly thanked him for his exertions, and promised to make a favourable report to the general, Carampangui insisted on accompanying Val- divia to Conception, where he met with the go- vernor, who dispatched the letter of the king to Ancanamon by Pedro Melendez, one of his en- signs, with a request that he would come to Pai- cavi, in order to confer with him upon the preli- minaries of the peace. The Toqui was not long in repairing to the place appointed, with a small guard of forty soldiers and several Ulmenes. In his train were also a number of Spanish pri- soners of the first families, to whom he had given their liberty. The governor, Valdivia, and the principal officers of the. government, came out to receive him, and conducted him to his lodg- ings under the discharge of artillery. They thea proceeded to discuss the articles of peace, which were, that the river Bio-bio should serve as a • barrier to both nations, so that neither should be 4 permitted to pass it with an army ; that all de-. serters in future should be mutually returned, and that the missionaries should be permitted to preach the doctrines of Christianity in the Arau- car ian territories. The Araucaniao general required as a preli- minary the evacuation of the forts of Paicavi and Arauco, which had been lately erected upon the sea-coast. The governor abandoned the first, and agreed immediately on the conclusion of peace to quit the other As the consent of the chiefs of the four Uthalmapus was however re- quisite to ratify the treaty, Ancanamon proposed to go and seek them in person, and bring them to the Spanish camp. The negotiation was in this state of forward- ness, when an unexpected event rendered abortive all the measures that had been taken. Among the wives of Ancanamon was a Spanish lady, who, taking advantage of his absence, fled for refuge to the governor, with two small children, and four women, whom she had persuaded to become christians, two of whom were the wives, and the others the daughters of her husband. The indignation of the To qui on this occasion was extreme, though he was much less exas- perated at the flight of his wives, than the kind reception which they had experienced from the Spaniards. As soon as he obtained information of it he relinquished every thought of peace, aud £69 returned back to demand them of the governor. His claim was taken into consideration ; but a majority of the officers, many of whom were opposed to a peace from the advantage which they derived from the prisoners, refused to sur- render the women to the Toqui, assigning as a reason their unwillingness to expose them to the danger of abandoning the faith which they had embraced. After many ineffectual propositions, Ancanamon, notwithstanding his resentment, was reduced to solicit merely the restoration of his daughters, whom he tenderly loved. He was answered, that as the eldest had not yet been converted to the christian faith, his request, as respected her, would be complied with, but that they could not so readily grant it in the case of the second, who had already been baptized. While affairs were in this critical state, ano- ther character appeared upon the stage, who re- vived the almost extinguished hopes of the de- sired accommodation. Utaflame, Arch-Ulmen of Ilicura, had ever been the most inveterate enemy of the Spanish name ; and in order to avoid all kind of commerce with the enemy, had constantly refused to ransom his sons or relations who were prisoners. He prided himself on having opposed with success all the governors of Chili, from the elder Villagran to Rivera ; nor had the Spaniards ever been able to obtain a footing in his province, ; though it was situated in the neigh- 270 bourhood of Imperial. Valdivia having at this time sent back *one of his sons, who had beerj^ taken in the late war, he was so highly gratified that he came in person to visit him at the fort of Arauco ; and in return for the civilities that he experienced from him and the governor, offered to receive the missionaries in his province, and to persuade Ancanamon to make peace with the Spaniards. He observed, however, that it would be necessary in the first place to return him his women, which could be done without exposing them to any danger, by first obtaining from him a pass of safe conduct in their favour : this was also the opinion of Valdivia. Utiflame took upon himself the management of the business^ and departed, taking with him three missionaries,, Horatio Vecchio, of Sienna, cousin to Pope Alexander VII. Martin Aranda, a native of Chili, and Diego Montalban, a Mexican, the friends and companions of his benefactor Valdivia,, No sooner had the exasperated Toqui learned the arrival of the missionaries at Hicura, than he hastened thither with two hundred horse, and without deigning to listen to their arguments, slew them all, with their conductor Utiflame, who endeavoured to defend them. Thus were all the plans of pacification rendered abortive. Valdivia in vain attempted several times to re- vive the negotiation. The officers and soldiers who were interested in the continuance of the mi war, disconcerted all his schemes, and loudly de- manded vengeance for the blood of the priests who were slain. The governor, notwithstanding his pacific wishes, found himself compelled to yield to their demands, and the war, contrary to the pious intentions of the king, was recom- menced with greater fury than before. Anca- namon, on his part, eagerly desirous of revenging the affront he had received, incessantly harassed the Spanish provinces. His successor, Lonco- thegua, continued hostilities with equal obsti- nacy. Ovalle, a contemporary writer, observes, that he fought several bloody battles with the governor and his subaltern officers, but has given only an imperfect account of them. In 1617 Rivera died in Conception, having appointed the eldest Auditor, Fernando Talaverano, as his suc- cessor, who after a government of ten months was succeeded by Lope de Ulloa. : vi|! i: 272 CHAP. VIII. COMPRISES A PERIOD OF FOURTEEN YEARS,, FROM 1618 TO 1632. Baring Enterprises of the Toqiiis Lientur and Putamcliion* Loncothegua having resigned, the chief com- mand of the Araucanian armies was conferred upon Lientur. The military expeditions of this Toqui were always so rapid and unexpected^, that the Spaniards gave him the appellation of the wizard. He appointed Levipillan his lieu- tenant-general, by whom he was perfectly se- conded in the execution of all his designs. Not- withstanding the Bio-bio was lined with sentinels and fortresses, he always contrived some means of passing and repassing it without experiencing any loss. His first enterprise was the capture of four hundred horses intended to remount the Spanish cavalry. He next ravaged the province of Chilian, and the Corregidor having marched to meet him, he entirely defeated and slew him, 273 together with two of his sons, and several of the magistrates of the city. Five days after this action he proceeded to- wards St. Philip of Austria, or Yumbel, with six hundred infantry and four hundred horse, whom he sent out in several divisions to ravage the country in the vicinity, leaving only two hundred to guard the narrow pass of the Con- grejeras. Rebolledo, the commander of the place, provoked at his temerity, dispatched se- venty horse to take possession of the above- mentioned deffle and cut off his retreat, but they were received with such bravery by the troops of Lientur, that they were compelled to retire for security to a hill, after having lost eighteen of their number, with their captain. Rebolledo sent to their assistance three companies of in- fantry, and the remainder of the cavalry. Lien- tur, who by this time had arrived with all his army, immediately formed his troops in battle array, fell upon the Spaniards, notwithstanding the continual fire of their musketry, and at the first encounter put the cavalry to flight. The infantry, being thus left exposed, were almost all cut in pieces ; but thirty-six prisoners were taken by the victors, who were distributed in tho se- veral provinces of the country. Had Lientur at that time invested the place, it must inevitably have fallen into his hands : but, for some reason which does not appear, he de- VOL. II. t 274 ferred the siege until the following year, whea his attempts to take it were rendered ineffectual by the valiant defence of Ximenes, the com- mander. This failure was, however, recom- pensed by the capture of Neculguenu, the gar- rison of which he put to the sword, and made prisoners of all the auxiliaries who dwelt in the neighbourhood. These successes were followed by many others equally favourable, whence, ac- cording to contemporary writers, who are satisfied with mentioning them in general terms, he was considered as the darling child of fortune. Ulloa, more a victim to the mortification and anxiety caused by the successes of Lientur than to sickness, died on the 20th of November,* f About this time the governor of Peru, D. Geronimo Luiz de Cabrera, made an expedition in search of the city of the Cesares — .the El Dorado of Chili. In Charles 5th's reign the bishop of Placencia is said to have sent out four ships to the Moluccas ; when they had advanced about twenty leagues within the straits of Magalhaens, three of them were driven on shore and lost, but the crew escaped. The fourth got back into the North Atlantick, and when the weather abated again attempted the passage, and reached the place where her comrades had been lost. The men were still on the shore, and entreated to be taken on board ; this was impossible— there was neither room nor provisions, and there they were left. An opinion prevailed that they got into the interior of Chili, settled there, and became a nation who are called th§ Cesares. It was believed that their very ploughshares are of gold. Adventurers reported that they fead been near enough to hear the sound of their bells ; and it £75 1620, and was, according to the established cus- tom, succeeded by the eldest of the auditors, Christopher de la Cerda, a native of Mexico. For the better defence of the shores of the Bio- bio, he built there the fort which still goes by his name ; he had also a number of encounters with Lientur, and during the short period of his government, which continued but a year, was constantly occupied in protecting the Spanish settlements. His successor, Pedro Sores Ulloa, ■ l was said that men of a fair complexion had been taken who were supposed to be of this nation.— Ovalle> L. 1. c. 5. do. L. 1 . c. 10. The existence of this city was long believed. Even after Feyjor had attempted to disprove, the Jesuit Mascardi went in search of it with a large party of Puelehes, and was killed by the Poy-yas on his return from the fruitless quest- — Dolrey- hojfer, T. 3, 40/. The groundwork of this belief is satisfactorily explained by Falkner, c. 4. p. 112. " The report," he says, " XliwX there is a nation in these parts, descended from Europeans, or the re- mains of shipwrecks, is, I verily believe, entirely false and groundless, and occasioned by misunderstanding the accounts of the Indians. For if they are asked in Chili concerning any inland settlement of Spaniards, they give an account of towns and white pe^plo, meaning Buenos Ayres, &c. &c. and so vice versa, not having the least idea that the inhabitants of these two distant countries are known to each other. Upon my questioning the Indians on this subject, I found my conjecture to be right; and they acknowledged, upon my naming Chiloe, Valdivia, &c. (at which they seemed amazed) that those were the places they had mentioned nader the description of Euro- pean settlements."— E* & i2 276 continued the war with similar fortune, until his death, which happened on the 1 1th of September, 1624. He was succeeded by his brother-in-law, Francisco Alava, who retained the office only six months. Lientur at length, advanced in years, and fa- tigued with his continual exertions, resigned, in 1625, the chief command to Putapichion, a young man, of a character for courage and conduct very similar to his own, who had passed the early part of his youth among the Spaniards, as a slave to one Diego Truxillo. The Spaniards also possessed at the same time a commander of uncommon valour and military skill : this was Don Louis de Cor- dova, lord of Carpio, and nephew to the viceroy of Peru, by whom he was abundantly supplied with warlike stores and soldiers, and ordered, in the name of the court, not to confine himself to defensive war, but to attack directly the Arau- canian territory in various quarters. His first care on his arrival at Conception was to introduce a reform of the military, and to pay the soldiers the arrears that were due to them. Those offices that were vacant he conferred on the Creoles, or descendants of the conquerors, who had been for the most part neglected ; and by this measure, not only obtained their esteem, but that of all the inhabitants. After having; established order in the government, he directed his cousin Alonzo Cordova, whom he had ap- 277 pointed quarter-master, to make an incursion with six hundred men in the provinces of Arauco and Tucapel. But he was not able to take more than a hundred and fifteen prisoners of both sexes, and a small number of cattle, the inhabi- tants having taken refuge with their families and effects in the mountains. Eight only attempted to oppose his march, who paid with their lives for their temerity. In the meantime, Putapichion endeavoured to signalize the commencement of his command, by the capture of one of the strongest places be- longing to the Spaniards on the Bio-bio. This was the fort of Nativity, situated on the top of a high and steep mountain, well furnished with soldiers and artillery, and both from its natural and artificial strength considered as impregnable. These considerations did not at all discourage the ardent temper of the young general. He came upon the fort unexpectedly ; in a moment scaled the difficult ascent, possessed himself of the ditch, and set on fire with burning arrows the palisades and houses of its defenders. But the latter collected themselves in the only bastion that the flames had spared, kept up from thence so severe a fire upon the enemy, that Putapichion., ' despairing after some time of being able to main- tain himself in the fort, retreated, taking with him twelve prisoners and several horses. From thence he crossed the Bio-bio, and al~ i3 278 tacked the post of Quinel, which was defended by a garrison of six hundred men ; but failing also in this attempt, he turned against the de- voted province of Chilian, from whence he brought off a great number of peasants and of cattle, notwithstanding the exertions of the ser- geant-major to stop his rapid march. In the following year, 1638, the governor, eager for re- taliation, determined to invade the Araucanian provinces in three directions ; to the quarter- master he assigned the maritime country, and to the sergeant-major that of the Andes, reserving the intermediate for himself. In pursuance of this plan, at the head of twelve hundred regular troops, and a correspondent number of auxili- aries, he traversed the provinces of Encol and Puren, captured a great number of men and cattle, and having passed the river Cauten, ra- vaged in a similar manner the rich district ot Maquegua. Whilst he was returning, well pleased with the success of his expedition, Putapichion presented himself with three thousand men in order of battle. The first encounter was so violent that. many of the Spaniards having fallen, the rest were compleatly broken ; but being at length rallied by the exertions of their valiant officers, they maintained their ground, so that the battle became more regular, and the slaughter was eoual on both sides. Putapichion, however, 279 who had recovered the spoil and taken some prisoners, during the confusion that the Spa- niards were thrown Into, thinking it not pru- dent to risk them on the event of a battle, ordered a retreat. On his return to Conception, the governor met with the sergeant-major and, the quarter- master. The first had not been able to effect any thing of importance, as the enemj had taken refuge in the mountains. The latter reported that having taken two hundred prisoners, and a booty of seven thousand horses and a thousand cattle, he had the misfortune to lose almost all of them, in consequence of a dreadful tempest that lie met with on his return. Jn the meantime, there arrived in Chili a new governor, appointed by the court in place of Cordova. This was Don Francisco Laso, a native of St. Andero, an officer who had gained much reputation in the wars of Flanders, where he had passed the principal part of his life. He at first sought to come to an accommodation with the Araucanians, and for that purpose sent home all the prisoners that were in the garrisons, with particular instructions to that effect. But their minds were not yet disposed to peace, the glory of establishing it being reserved for his suc- cessor ; he, however, prepared the way for it by his victories, and by the ten years of uninter- T # 280 mitted war that he made upon the enemy, in con- sequence of the rejection of his proposals. Laso was not, however, in the commencement of his military operations highly favoured by fortune. The quarter- master, Cordova, who was preparing by his orders to invade the mari- time provinces at the head of thirteen hundred men, was completely routed in Piculgue, a small district not far from the fort of Arauco. Putapichion, having placed a part of his army in ambuscade, contrived, with much skill, to induce him to come to battle in an unfavourable position. The Spanish horse which formed the advanced guard, not able to sustain the shock of the Auracanian cavalry, which had at this time become very expert, gave way. The infantry, besog in consequence left exposed and surrounded upon all sides, were wholly destroyed after a combat of more than five hours, during which they performed prodigies of valour in resisting the furious assaults of the enemy. In this action the commander himself was slain, with five cap- tains, ^nd several other officers of merit. As soon as (he governor was informed of this defeat, he set out in person with a considerable body of troops in search of Putapichion. In the meantime, the latter, mocking the vigilance of Rebolledo the sergeant-major, who had pro- mised to prevent his crossing the Bio-bio, passed that river with two hundred men, and taking ad- 281 ■vantage of the absence of the Spanish army, laid waste the neighbouring provinces. On receiving this information Laso returned, and immediately occupied with his troops all the known passages of the river ; then taking with him a cumber of men equal to that of the enemy, he went in pur- suit of them with all possible expedition. Having arrived at a place called Roblena, upon the shore of the river Itata, he was attacked with such courage by the Araucanian general, that at the first encounter the Spaniards gave way, forty of them being slain., with several of their officers. The rest owed their safety wholly to the valour of their commander, who, with that cool in- trepidity which marks a great character, not only rallied and restored them to order, but also en- abled them to repulse the enemy with loss. Putapichion, satisfied with his success, and still more with having taken the scarlet cloak of the governor, returned and passed the Bio-bio without being pursued. He was received by his army with the liveliest demonstrations of joy, and in order to gratify them, he resolved to revive the almost forgotten festival of the pruloncon. A Spanish soldier taken in one of the preceding battles was the victim selected for this barbarous spectacle, and after the usual ceremonies the Ul- men Maulican, by order of the general, dis- patched him with a blow of his club. This cruel action, which some have sought to excuse on the principle of retaliation, has dishonoured all the laurels of Putapichion. The torture of an innocent prisoner, upon whatever motive, or under whatever pretext it is inflicted, is a crime of the deepest dye against humanity. This cruel amusement was not however pleasing to all the nation. Many of the spectators, as Don Fran- cisco Bascugnan, an eye witness, asserts, com- passionated the fate of the unfortunate soldier, and Mauiican, to whom the office of dispatching him was assigned as a mark of honour, declared that he had consented to it with the utmost re- luctance, and only to avoid quarrelling with his commander. The governor having left to the quarter- master, Fernando Sea, the charge of guarding the Bio-bio, with thirteen hundred Spaniards and six hundred auxiliaries, withdrew to San- tiago, where he raised two companies of infantry and one of cavalry. At the same time he re- ceived from Peru five hundred veteran soldiers. With these^troops, and those whom he found upon the frontier, having formed a sufficient army, he proceeded immediately to the fort of Arauco, which he knew was menaced by Puta- pichion. That indefatigable general had indeed commenced his march for that place with seveq thousand chosen troops whose valour he thought nothing was able to resist. But intimidated by some superstitious auguries of the Ex-Toqui 4 283 Lientur, who bad resolved to share with him the glory of the enterprise, the greater part of them forsook him on the road. Not discouraged by this desertion, and observing that in war there could be no better omen than an eager desire to conquer, he continued his march with thirty-two hundred of the most determined who were re- solved to follow him, and encamped at a short distance from the fort. Some of his officers ad- vised him to attack it that same night, but he declined it, as well for the purpose, of resting his troops, as not to give the enemy occasion to reproach him with always taking advantage, like a robber, of darkness to favour his operations. Having resolved to offer him battle the next day, the governor made his men prepare them- selves for it in the best manner possible, and that night had a skirmish with an advanced party of the eneray, who had approached very near the wall, and burned the houses of the auxiliaries. .At day-break he took possession with his army of the important post of Alvarrada, which was Janked by two deep torrents, placing the cavalry, commanded by the quarter-master Sea, on the right, and the infantry, under the orders of ser- geant-major Rebolledo, on the left. Putapichion having observed the movements of the Spaniards, presented himself with his army in such excellent order, that the governor could not avoid openly expressing his admiration. •: ••;• . ;■ , » m The soldiers, whose heads were adorned with beautiful leathers, appeared as much elated as if going to a banquet. The two armies remained some time observing each other, till at length Quepuantu, the Vice Toqui, by order of the general, gave the signal of attack. The governor then ordered the cavalry to charge, but it was so severely handled by the enemy's horse, that it took to flight, and sheltered itself in the rear of the army. At the same time the Araucanian in- fantry broke the Spanish lines in such a manner, that the governor gave up all for lost. Fortu- nately for him, at this critical moment Putapi- chion was slain. Availing himself of the con- fusion produced among the Araucanians by this circumstance, he rallied his troops, and charged the enemy anew, who were wholly intent on carrying off the body of their general. This they succeeded in effecting, but were completely routed; Quepuantu in vain endeavouring to stop, and bring them back to the charge, killing severaj of them with his own hand. Great was the slaughter of the fugitives who were pursued to the distance of six miles ; of the Spaniards many also were killed; but from different account* given by Writers, the number cannot be ascer- tained. $85 CHAP. IX. li- fe COMPRISING A PERIOD OF EIGHTY-SEVEN YEARS, FROM 1633 TO 1720. I! Continuation of the War; New Expedition of the Dutch against Chili ; Peace concluded with the Araucanians ; Its short Duration; Ex- ploits of the To qui Clentaru; Series of Spanish Govornors to the Year 1720. From the death of Putapichion to the termi- nation of the government of Don Francisco Laso, the Toquis elected by the Araucanians continued the war with more rashness than good conduct. None of them, like Antiguenu or Paillamachu, possessed that coolness requisite to repair their losses, and counterbalance the power af the Spaniards. Quepuantu, who from the rank vf a subaltern had been raised to the chief com- mand, after the battle of Alvarrada, retired to a valley covered with thick woods, where he erected a house with four opposite doors, in order to escape in case of being attacked. The go- vernor, having discovered the place of his re- '■{ I tm treat, sent the quarter-master Sea to surprise him with four hundred light armed troops. These arriving unexpectedly, Quepuantu took refuge, as he had planrv j£* in the wood, but ashamed of hi- flight, he returned with about fifty men, who had come to his assistance, and furiously attacked the assailants. He continued fighting desperately for half an hour., but having lost almost all his men, accepted a challenge from Loncomallu, chief of the auxiliaries, by whom, after a long combat, he was slain. A similar fate, in 1634, befelhis successor and relation Loncomilla, in fighting with a small number of troops against a strong division of the Spanish army. Guenucalquin, who succeeded him, after having made some fortunate incursions into the Spanish provinces, lost his life in an en- gagement with six hundred Spaniards, in the pro- vince of Ilicura. Curanteo, who was created Toqui in the heat of the action, had the glory of terminating it by the rout of the enemy, but was shortly after killed in another conflict. Curi- mil l^ore darm& tnan his predecessor re- peatedly ravaged the provinces to the north of the Bio-bio, and undertook the siege of Arauco, and of the other fortifications on the frontier, but was finally killed by Sea in Calcoimo. During the government of this Toqui, the Dutch attempted a second time to form an alli- ance with the Araucanians, in order to obtain 287 possession of Chili ; but this expedition was not more fortunate than the first. The squadron, which consisted of four ships* was dispersed by a storm on its arrival on the coast in 1638. A boat, well manned and armed, being afterwards dispatched to the island of Mocha, belonging to the Araucanians, the in- habitants, supposing that they came to attack them, fell upon the crew, put the whole to death, and took possession of the boat. Another experienced a similar misfortune in the little island of Talca, or Santa Maria. The Arauca- nians, as has been already observed, were equally jealous, and not, as may be readily imagined, without reason, of all the European nations. Notwithstanding the ill-success of the Dutch, Sir John Narborough, an English naval com- mander, undertook some years after a similar enterprise, by order of his sovereign Charles the Second; but in passing the straits of Magel- lan, he lost his whole fleet, which was much better equipped than that of the Dutch. In the meantime the governor, taking advan- tage of the imprudence of the Araucanian com- manders, continued constantly to lay waste their provinces. By a proclamation he had at first directed that every prisoner taken in these in- cursions, capable of bearing arms, should be put to death ; but afterwards, actuated by more hu- mane sentiments, he ordered that they should be 2BB sent to Peru. This sentence was, however, more? hittev to them than death. Whenever they came in sight of land, which is very common during that navigation, they hesitated not to throw themselves overboard, in the hope of escaping by swimming and returning to their country. Many had the good fortune to save themselves in this manner ; but those who were not able to elude the vigilance of the sailors, as soon as they were landed on the island, or at the port of Cal- lao, exposed themselves to every peril to effect their escape and return to their much loved country, coasting with incredible fatigue the immense space of ocean between the port and the river Bio-bio. Even their relations, more soli- citous to deliver them from the miseries of exile than from death itself, when they were con- demned to that punishment, frequently sent em- bassies to the governor to negotiate their ransom, out he always refused to consent to it, until they had laid down their arms, and submitted to his orders. Laso had greatly at heart the performance of the promise, which, like several of his prede- cessors, he had made the king, of putting an end to the war. He of course put in operation every means possible of attaining that end. Indeed, no one was more capable of succeeding ; but he had to contend with an invincible people. Never- theless, he employed every measure that military 289 science suggested to him, to effect their subju- gation ; now endeavouring by his victories to humble their pride, now ravaging their country with fire and sword, and now restraining them by the construction of fortresses in different places in their territory. He also founded a city not far from the ruins of Angol, to which he gave the name of St. Francis de la Vega. This settlement, which was protected by a garrison of four companies of horse .and two of foot, was taken and destroyed by the Toqui Curimilla the Very year of its foundation. A war so obstinate must necessarily have caused the destruction of a great number of men. The Spanish army had become more than one half diminished, notwithstanding the numerous re- cruits with which it was annually supplied from Peru. On this account the governor sent Don Francisco Avendano to Spain to solicit new re- inforcements, promising to bring the war to a termination in the course of two years. But the court, judging from the past that there was little reason to expect so successful an issue, appointed him a successor in the person of Don Francisco Zuniga Marquis de Bayde-s, who had given un- questionable proofs of his political and military talents, both in Italy and Flanders, where be had sustained the office of quarter-master-general. On his arrival in Chili in 1740, this nobleman, either in consequence of private instructions from \ VOL. II. u ■ 290 the minister ^ or of his own accord, had a per*- sonal conference with Lincopichion, to whom the xiraucanians, upon the death of Curiniilla, had confided the command of their armies. Fortu- nately, both the commanders were of the same disposition, and being equally averse to so de- structive a war, readily agreed upon the most difficult articles of peace. The 6th of January of the following year was the day fixed for its ratification, and the place of meeting, the village of Quillin, in the province of Puren. At the time fixed the Marquis appeared at the appointed place, with a retinue of about ten thousand persons, from all parts of the kingdom, who insisted on accompanying him. Lincopi- chion, who also came there at the head of the four hereditary Toquis, and a great number* of Ulmenes and other natives, opened the conference with a very eloquent speech. He then, accord- ing to the Chilian custom, killed a camel, and sprinkling some of the blood on a branch of cin- namon, presented it in token of peace to the go- vernor. The articles of the treaty were next proposed and ratified ; they were similar to those which had been accepted by Ancanamon, except that the Marquis required that the Araucanians should not permit the landing of any strangers upon their coast, or furnish supplies to any foreign nation whatever ; this being conformable to the political maxims of the nation, was readily 291 granted. Thus was a period put to a war of ninety years, and this grand negotiation was ter- minated by the sacrifice of twenty-eight camels, and an eloquent harangue from Antiguenu, chief of the district, upon the mutual advan- tages which both nations would derive from the peace. After this the two chiefs cordially em- braced, and congratulated each other on the happy termination of their exertions; they then dined together, and made each other mutual pre- sents, and the three days succeeding were past by both nations in feasting and rejoicing. In consequence of this treaty all the prisoners were released, and the Spaniards had the satis- faction of receiving, among others, forty-two Of those who had been in captivity since the time of Paillamachu. Commerce, which is insepa- rable from the good understanding of nations, was established between the two people ; the lands that had been deserted in consequence of hostile incursions were repopulated, and by their regular produce animated the industry of their undisturbed possessors ; the hopes of religion became also again revived, and the missionaries began freely to exercise their ministry. Notwithstanding these and other advantages which were to be expected from the peace, there were, among both the ^Araucanians and the Spaniards, some unquiet tempers, who endea- voured by specious reasons to prevent its ratifi- u2 292 cation. The first said that it was only a scheme to deceive the Araucanians, in order at a future time to conquer them with more facility, by ren- dering them unaccustomed to the use of arms. Those of the Spaniards, on the contrary, pre- tended to be afraid that, if peace were established, the population of the enemy would be so much increased, that they would become sufficiently powerful to destroy all the Spanish settlements in Chili. Of the latter some had even the bold- ness to cry " to arms/' and endeavour to insti- gate the auxiliaries to commence hostilities at the very time of the conference. But the Mar- quis, by justifying his intentions to the one, and reprimanding the other party, prevented the re- newal of the war, and put the last hand to his glorious undertaking, which was approved and ratified by the court. In. 1643, two years after the peace, the im- portance of the article. inserted hy the governor in the twenty was rendered very apparent to the Spaniards, by a last attempt made by the Dutch to possess themselves of Chili. Their measures were so well taken, that had they been in the least seconded by the Araucanians, they must have infallibly succeeded. Having left Brasil, which they had conquered, with a numerous fleet, well provided wjgi men and cannon, they took possession of the harbour of Valdi via, which had been deserted for more than fbriy years, 293 where they intended to form an establishment in order to conquer the rest of the kingdom. With this view they immediately began building three strong fjrts at the entrance of the river, in order to secure its possession. The Araucanians were invited, with the most flattering promises, to join them ; this they not only declined, but strictly adhering to the stipu- lations of the treaty, refused to furnish them with provisions, of which they were greatly in want. The Cunchese, to whom the territory which they had occupied belonged, following the counsel of their allies, refused alscr to treat with them, or supply them. In consequence of this refusal, the Dutch, pressed with hunger, and hearing that a combined army of Spaniards and Araucanians were on their march against them, were compelled to abandon the place in three months after their landing. The Marquis de Mancura, son to the viceroy of Peru, having soon after arrived there in search of them with ten ships of war, fortified the harbour, and par- ticularly the island, which has since borne tha titular name of his family. On the termination of the sixth year of his pacific government, Baydes, was recalled by the court, and Don Martin Muxica appointed in his place. He succeeded in preserving the kingdom in that state of tranquillity in which he found it, no other commotion occurring, during his go- v 3 ■ I 294 vernment, but that produced by a violent earth- quake, which, on the 8th of May, 1647, de- stroyed part of the city of Santiago. The for- tune of his successor, Don Antonio Acugna, was very different. During his government the war was excited anew between the Spaniards and Araucanians, but contemporary writers have left us no account of the causes that produced it. Clentaru, the hereditary Toqui of Lauquc- mapu, being in 1655 unanimously elected ge- neral, signalized his first campaign by the total defeat of the Spanish army, commanded by the sergeant-major, who fell in the action, together with all his men. This victory was followed by the capture of the fortresses of Arauco, Colcura, St. Pedro, Talcamavida, and St. Rosendo. The next year the Araucaoian general crossed the Bio-bio, completely defeated Acugna, the go- vernor, in the plains of Yumbel, destroyed the forts of St. Christopher, and of the Estancia del Mey, and burned the city of Chilian. I regret much the want of materials for this part of my work, as all the memoirs of which I have hitherto availed myself terminate at this period; even the successes of Clentaru being only mentioned incidentally. All that we know is, generally, that this war was continued with great violence for a period of ten years, under the government of Don Pedro Portel Casanate, land Don Francisco Meneses. The last, who 295 was a Portuguese by birth, bad the glory of ter- minating it in 1665, by a peace more permanent than that made by Baydes. But, after freeing himself of the Araucanians, he had the misfor- tune to engage in a contest of a different kind with the members of the Royal Audience, who opposed his marrying the daughter of the Mar- quis de la Pica, as being contrary to the royal decrees. The quarrel was carried to such length, that the court of Spain was obliged to send out to Chili the Marquis de Navamorquende, with full powers to determine their difference. That minister, after due inquiry, sent Meneses to Peru, and took possession of his office. After him, to the end of the century, the government was ad- ministered in succession by Don Miguel Silva, Don Joseph Carrera, and Don Thomas Marin de Proveda, all of whom appear to have main- tained a good understanding with the Arauca- nians, though Garro had nearly broken with them, on occasion of removing the inhabitant^ of the island of Mocho in 1686, to the north shore of the Bio-bio, in order to cut off all com- munication with foreign enemies. The commencement of the present era was marked in Chili by the deposition of the governor Don Francisco Ibanez, the rebellion of the in- habitants of Chiloe, and the trade with the French. Ibanez, like Meneses, was banished to Peru, for having, as is said, espoused the party u 4 296 m opposition to the house of Bourbon in the way of succession. His office, until the year 1720, was filled by Don Juan Henriquez, Don An- drew Uztariz, and Don Martin Concha. The islanders of Cbiloe were soon restored to obedi- ence, through the prudent conduct of the quarter- master-general of the kingdom, Don Pedro Mo- lina, who was sent against them with a consider- able body of troops, but who succeeded in re- ducing them rather hj nnld measures than by useless victories. The French, in consequence of the above- mentioned war of succession, possessed them- selves for a time of all the external commerce of Chili. From 1707 to 1717 its ports were filled with their ships, and they carried from thence incredible sums in gold and silver. Many of them who became attached to the country settled themselves in it, and have left numerous descend- ants. It was at this period, that the learned father Feuille, who remained there three years, made his botanical researches and meteorological Observations upon the coast. His amiable qua- lities obtained him the esteem of the inhabitants, who still cherish his memory with much affection^ %W CHAP. X. A Brief Account of the War of the Toquis Vilu- milla and Curignancu ; Spanish Governors to the Year 1 787, The Araucanians had for some time been very much dissatisfied with the peace. They perceived that it gave the Spaniards an opportunity of forming new establishments in their country. They also endured very impatiently the insolence on Ambrosio Higgins a native of Ireland, who, by his enlightened mind and excellent disposition, has gained the love and esteem of all the inhabitants. He is likewise quarter-master and intendant of the department of Conception^ The infantry, as well as the district; these in like manner have no fixed number, some- times exceeding one hundred me^ &M ^ short. From these companies, the recruits to supply the va cancies m the regular corps are drawn or selected. They serve as guards for the prisons, and for the escort of criminals, and perform such other duties as the police demands, without being exempted from military service when occasion requires whence all persons capable of bearing arms are enrolled in these companies, except such as are immediately necessary for cultivating the land, and taking care of the cattle-tya*. Trans. * All the veteran troops throughout Chili amount to one thousand nine hundred and seventy-six men, and consist of two companies of artillery, nine of horse, including the Queen's dragoons at Santiago, and the remainder infantry.-^*. t On the 2lst of November, 1787, this gentleman was ap* pointed by the king, president, governor, and captain-general ' 313 artillery,, is under the command of two lieu- tenant-colonels. The city of St. Jago also keeps in pay some companies of dragoons for its pro- tection. The revenues and expenses of the go- vernment I am unable to ascertain, as they have been considerably increased within a few years. As respects the ecclesiastical government, Chili is divided into the two large dioceses of St. Jago and Conception, which cities are the residence of the bishops, who are suffragans to the archbishop of Lima. The first diocese extends from the confines of Peru to the river Maule, compre- hending the province of Cujo upon the other side of the Ancles. The second comprises all the rest of Chili with the islands, although the greater part of this extent is inhabited by pagans. The cathedrals are supplied with a proper number of canons, whose revenues depend i«pon the tythes, as do those of the bishops. The court of inquisition at Lima has at St. Jago a commissioner, with several subaltern officers. of Chili, and on the 19th of September, 1789, field.marshal of the royal armies.- At the present time, 1792, he discharges the duties of those offices with ail that vigilance and attention which characterize him, and which so" important a trust re- quires. On his first accession to the government, he visited in person the northern provinces, for the purpose of dispensing justice and encouraging agriculture, opening of the mines, commerce, and fishery. He also established public schools, repaired the roads, and built several cities. — Ibid* 3U Pedro Valdivia, on his first entering Chili, brought with him the monks of the order of Mercy, and about the year 1553 introduced the Dominicans and strict Franciscans. The Au- gustins established themselves there in 1595, and Hospitallers of St. John of God about the year 1615. These religious orders have all a number of convents, and the three first form distinct jurisdictions. The brothers of St. John of God have the charge of the hospitals, under a commissary, who is dependant upon the pro- vincial of Peru. These are the only religious fraternities now in Chili. The Jesuits, who came into Chili in 1593 with the nephew of their founder, Don Martin de Loyola, formed likewise a separate province. Others have se- veral times attempted, but without success, to form establishments, the Chilians having always opposed the admission of new orders among them. In St. Jago and Conception are several convents of nuns, but they are the only cities that contain them. The cities are built in the best situations in the country. Many of them, however, would have been better placed for the purposes of com- merce upon the shores of the large rivers. This is particularly the case with those of more recent construction. The streets are straight, intersect- ing each other at right angles, and are thirty-six French feet in breadth. On account of earth- 315 quakes,, the houses are generally of one story ; they are, however, very commodious, white- washed without, and generally painted within. Each is accommodated with a pleasant garden, irrigated by an aqueduct that furnishes water for the use of the family. Those belonging to the wealthier classes, particularly the nobility, are furnished with much splendour and taste. The inhabitants, perceiving that old buildings of two stories have resisted the most violent shocks, have of late years ventured to reside in the upper rooms, and now begin to construct their houses in the European manner. In consequence of this the cities have a better appearance than for- merly, and the more so, as instead of forming their houses of clay hardened in the sun, which was supposed less liable to injury, they now em- ploy brick and stone. Cellars, sewers, and wells, were formerly much more common than at pre- sent, a circumstance which may have contri- buted to render the buildings more secure from earthquakes. The churches are generally more remarkable for their wealth than their style of architecture. The cathedral and the church of the Dominicans in the capital, which are built of stone, are* however, exceptions. The fiiat was constructed at the royal expense, under the direction of the present bishop, Don Manuel Alday, an excellent and learned prelate; it is built in a masterly I I 1 3W style, and is 384 French feet in front. The plari was drawn by two English architects, who su- perintended the work; hut when it was half finished they refused to go on, unless their wages were increased. In consequence of this the building was suspended, when two of the In- dians, who had worked under the Englishmen, and had sec recti y found means of instructing themselves in every branch of the art, offered to complete it, which they did with as much skill and perfection as their masters themselves could have displayed. In the capital the following edifices are also worthy of remark : the barracks for the dragoons, the mint, which has been lately built by a Roman architect, and the hospital for orphans, founded by Don Juan Nic-Aguirre, Marquis of Monte- pio, and endowed by his present majesty, who patronizes with much libe- rality all establishments of public uti!ity. Spanish Chili, in consequence of the freedom1 granted to its maritime trade by the present «-o- vernment, is peopling with a rapidity propor- tioned to the salubrity of its climate and the fertility of its soil. Its population in general is composed of Europeans, Creoles, Indians, Ne- groes, and Mustees. The Europeans, except a few French, English, and Italians, are Spaniards, who for the most part are from the southern pro- vinces of Spain. The Creoles, who form the greater number, are the descendants of Euro- I )]■'■; 317 peans. Their character, with some slight dif- ference, proceeding from climate or government, is precisely similar to that of the other American Creoles of European origin. The same modes of thinking, and the same moral qualities, are discernible in them all. This uniformity, which furnishes much subject for reflection, has never yet been considered by any philosopher in its full extent. Whatever intelligent and unpre- judiced travellers have observed respecting the characters of the French and English Creoles, will perfectly apply to that of the Chilian.* * The Creoles are generally well made. Those deformities so common in other countries are very rarely to be found among them- Their courage has frequently signalized itself in war by a series of brilliant actions ; nor would there be any better soldiers in the world if they were less averse to discipline. Their history furnishes no traits of that cowardice, treachery, and base conduct, which dishonour the annals of all nations/and scarcely can an instance be adduced of a Creole having committed a disgraceful act. Their minds are untainted with dissimulation, artifice, or suspicion. Possessing great frankness and vivacity, and a high opinion of themselves, their intercourse is wholly free from that mystery and reserve which obscure amiableness of cha- racter, depress the social spirit, and chill sensibility. An ardent imagination, which admits of no restraint, ren- ders them independent and inconstant in their inclinations. It impels them to the pursuit of pleasure with an eagerness to which they sacrifice their fortunes and their very existence. A keen penetration, a remarkable quickness in conceiving and ia ^pressing their ideas with force, the talent of combining i 318 They are generally possessed of good talents, and succeed in any of the arts to which they appl/ themselves. They would make as great progress m the useful sciences as they have done in metaphysics, if they had the same motives to Stimulate them as are found in Europe. They do nt readily imbibe prejudices, and are not tenacious m retaining them. As scientific books and instruments, however, are very scarce, or sold at an exorbitant price, their talents are either never developed, or are wholly employed upon trifles. The expenses of printing are also so great, as to discourage literary exertion, so that few aspire to the reputation of authors. The knowledge of the civil and canonical laws is held in great esteem hy them, so that many of the Chilian youth, after having completed their course of academical education in Chili, pro- ceed to Lima, which is highly celebrated for its schools of law, in order to be instructed in that science. The line arts are in a very low state in Chili, and even the mechanical are as yet very far from perfection. We may except, however, those of carpentry, and the working of iron and the pre- added to that of observation, and a happy mixture of all the qualities of mind and of character that render man capable of the greatest performances, prompt them to the boldest under- takings, when stimulated by oppression.-.Ray>wfr History of the Indies, vol. v. lib. ii. 319 cious metals, which have made considerable pro- gress, in consequence of the information ob- tained from some German artists, who were in- troduced into the country by that worthy eccle- siastic, Father Carlos, of Hainhausen in Bavaria, The important change which the exertions of the present monarch have so materially contri- buted to produce throughout his dominions, in directing the attention of his subjects to useful improvements, has extended itself to these parts. The arts and sciences, which before were either not known, or very imperfectly, at present engage the attention of the inhabitants, so that there is leason to hope that in a short time the state of the country will assume a very different ap- pearance. The peasantry, though for much the greater part of Spanish origin, dress in the Araucanian manner. Dispersed over that extensive country, and unencumbered by restraint, they possess perfect liberty, and lead a tranquil and happy life, amidst the enjoyments of that delightful climate.* They are naturally gay, and fond of * The principal part of these healthy and robust men live dispersed upon their possessions, and cultivate with their own hands a greater or less extent of ground. They are incited to this laudable labour by a sky always clear and serene, and a climate the most agreeably temperate of any in the two hemispheres, but more especially by a soil whose fertility has excited the admiration of all travellers,— Raynal, lib. viii. ; Chili. 320 ail kinds of diversion. They have likewise a taste for music, and compose verses after their manner, which, although rude and inelegant, possess a certain natural simplicity more interest- ing than the laboured compositions of cultivated poets. Extemporaneous rhymers, or improver satori, are common among them, and are called in their language Palladorcs. Those known to possess this talent are held in great estimation, and apply themselves to no other occupation' In the countries dependant on the Spanish colo- nies, there is generally no other language than the Spanish spoken • but on the frontiers? the peasants speak the Araucauian or Chilian as well as the former. The men dress in the French, and the women in the Peruvian fashion, except that the women of Chili wear their garments longer than those * of Peru. In point of luxury, there is no differ- ence between the inhabitants of the two coun- tries • Lima prescribes the fashions for Chili, as Paris does for the rest of Europe. Those who are wealthy make a splendid display in their dress, their servants, coaches, or titles. Chili alone, of all the American provinces, has en- joyed the superior privilege of having two of its citizens exalted to the dignity of grandees of Spam ; these are, Don Fernando Irrazabal, Mar- quis of Valparaiso, born in St. Jago, who was viceroy of Navarre, and generalissimo of the 321 Spanish army in the time of Philip the Fourth t and Don Fermin Caravajal, Duke of St. Carlos, a native of Conception, who resides at present at the court of Madrid. Don Juan Covarrubias, who was a native of St. Jago, in the beginning of the present century entered into the service of the king of France, and was rewarded with the title of Marquis of Covarrubias, the order of the Holy Ghost, and the rank of Marshal in the French army. The salubrity of the air, and the constant exercise on horseback to which they accustom themselves from childhood, render them strong and active, and preserve them from many diseases. The small pox is not so common as in Europe, but it makes terrible ravages when it appears. This disease was, in the year 1766, for the first time introduced into the province of Maule, where it became very fatal. A countryman who had re- covered from it, conceived the idea of attempting to cure a number of unhappy wretches, who had been abandoned, by cow's milk, which he gave them to drink, or administered to them m clysters. With this simple remedy he cured all those whom he attended ; while the physicians with their com- plicated prescriptions saved but a very few. I have mentioned this anecdote, as it serves strongly to confirm the successful experiments of M. Las- sone, physician to the queen of France, in the cure of the small pox with cow's milk, published VOL. II. Y 322 by himself in, the medical transactions of Paris for the year 1779. The countryman, however, employed milk alone, whereas M. de Lassone thought it advisable to mis it with a decoction of parsley roots. These instances would seem to prove that milk has the singular property of lessening the virulence of this disorder, and re- pressing its noxious or deadly qualities. The inhabitants of the country are generally very benevolent. Contented with a comfortable subsistence, they may be said scarcely to know what parsimony or avarice is, and are very rarely infected with that vice. Their houses are open to all travellers that come, whom they freely en- tertain without an idea of pay, and often on these occasions regret that they are not more wealthy, in. order to exercise their hospitality to a greater exteM. This virtue is also commoain the cities.* 'To this cause it is owing that they have not hitherto been attentive to the erection of inns and public lodging-houses, which will, however, become necessary when the commerce of the in- terior is more increased. *: Throughout Chili they are extremely kind to strangers ; the inhabitants are unequalled in point of hospitality, and I .have myself experienced such great and important favours, that 1 cannot find words to express my gratitude. The ill re- turn that they have frequently met with from individuals of our nation, has never been able to produce a diminution of their native hospitality.— Funlls, vol. ii. 3 323 Lord Anson, in his voyage, gives "a particular description of the dexterity of the South Ame- rican peasants in managing the laqui, with which they take animals, either wild or domestic. la Chili, the inhabitants? of the country constantly carry this laqui with them/fastened to the sad- dles, in order to have it ready upon occasion* and are very skillful in the use of it. It con- sists merely of a strip of leather several fathoms in length, well twisted in the manner of a cord, and terminated by a strong noose of the same material. They make use of it both on foot and horseback, and in the latter case with equal cer- tainty whether amidst woods, mountains, or steep declivities. On these occasions, one end of it is fastened under the horse's belly, and the other held by the rider, who throws it over the flying animal with a dexterity that scarcely ever misses its aim. Herodotus makes mention of a similar noose which was used in battle by the Sagartians.* The Chilians have also employed the laqui with * The SagartJi were originally of Persian descent, and use the Persian language; they have no offensive weapons either of iron or brass, except their daggers ; their principal depend- ance in action is upon cords made of twisted leather, which they use in this manner : when they engage an enemy, they throw out these cords, having a noose at the extremity ; jf they entangle in them either horse or man, they without dif- ficulty put them to death. — Beloes' Herodotus* vol. iii. Poly mi nia? page 205. \% ■ I 324 success against the English pirates, who have landed upon their coast. They are also skillful m the management of horses, and in the opinion of travellers, who have had an opportunity of witnessing their dexterity and courage in this exercise, they might soon be formed into the best body of cavalry in the world. Their at- tachment to horses renders them particularly fond of horse-racing, which they conduct in the English manner. The negroes, who have been introduced into Chili wholly by contraband means, are subjected to a state of servitude which may be considered as tolerable in comparison to that which they endure in many parts of America, where the interest of the planter stifles every sentiment of humanity. As the planting of sugar and other articles of West-Indian commerce has not been established in Chili, the slaves are employed in domestic services, where by attention and dili- gence they more readily acquire the favour of tneir masters. Those in most esteem are either such as are born in the country of African pa- rents, or the mulattoes, as they become more at- tached to the family to which they belong. The humanity of the government or the in- habitants has introduced in favour of this unfor- tunate race a very proper regulation. Such of them as by their industry have obtained a sum ©f money sufficient for the purchase of a slave, 325 can ransom themselves by paying it to their masters, who are obliged to receive it and set them at liberty, and numbers who have in this manner obtained their freedom, are to be met with throughout the country. Those who are ill-treated by their owners can demand a letter of sale, which is a written permission to them to seek a purchaser. In case of the master's re- fusal, they have the privilege of applying to the judge of the place, who examines their com- plaints, and if well founded, grants them the permission required. Such instances are, how- ever, very unusual, either because the master, on account of his reputation, avoids reducing his slaves to this extremity, or that the slaves them- selves contract such an attachment to their mas- ters, that the greatest punishment inflicted on them would be to sell them to others. From hence it often happens that those who, for their good conduct, have their liberties given them, do not wish to avail themselves of it, in order not to lose the protection of the house they be- long to, where they are certain of always having a subsistence furnished them. Masters exercise the rights of fathers of families over their slaves, in correcting them for their faults ; the kind and degree of punishment is left with them when they have been guilty of any crime that is not capital. Although such a state of servitude appears repugnant to natural right, yet society y3 $26 derives great advantages from it. Families ar# not exposed to the instability nf servants, who, considering themselves as strangers, .never be* come attached fa the house, and without hesita- tion communicate all its secrets. The internal commerce of Chili has been .hitherto of very little importance, notwithstand- ing the advantages that the country offers for itg .encouragement. Its principal source, industry, .or more properly speaking, necessity, is wanting. An extensive commerce is correlative with a great population, and in proportion as the latter increases, the former will also be augmented.* * Hitherto it may be said, that of the two branches that in general give birth to commerce, agriculture, and industry, the first is that alone which animates the internal commerce of Chili, and even that part of the external which is carried on with Peru. The working of mines also occupies the attention of many in the provinces of €opiapo, Coruiimbo, and Quil- lota. But the industry is so trifling that it does not deserve the name. Notwithstanding the abundanee of its fruits and materials of the first class, as flax, wool, hemp, skins, and metals, which might produce a flourishing commerce, it is con- ducted but languidly. The inhabitants employ themselves only in making ponchos, stockings, socks, carpets, biankefs, skin coats, riding saddles; hats, and other small articles, chiefly made use of by the common or poorer class of people, since those of the middle rank employ European manufac- hires. These, but more particularly the sale of hides and tanned leather, which they have in great plenty, with that of grain and wine, form the whole of the internal commerce of 827 ' A communication by water, which greatly faci- litates its progress, has been already commenced. In several of the ports barks are employed in the transportation of merchandise, which was before The external, which is carried on with all the ports of Peru, particularly Callao, arises from the exportation of fruits; this amounts to seven hundred thousand dollars, serving not only to counterbalance the importations from that country, but leaving a balance in favour of Chili of two hundred thousand dollars annually, according to the statements given in the periodical publications of Lima. The commerce between Chili and Buenos Ay res is quite otherwise, since for the herb of Paraguay alone it is obliged to advance three hundred dollars annually, in cash. The other articles received from thence are probably paid for by those sent thither. In the trade with Spain, the fruits received from Chili go but a little way inpayment of more than a million of dollars, which are received from thence annually in European goods, either directly or by the way of Buenos A.yres, and some- times from Lima. Gold, silver, and copper, are the articles which form the whole of this commerce, since the hides and vicugna wool are in such small quantities as to render them of little importance. The gold, which is coined in the capital, is regulated at five thousand two hundred marks annually, whence, by comparing the amount shipped with that coined, as no overplus appears, jt is concluded that there is no clandestine extraction, not- withstanding in bullion and in works of use or ornament a very considerable quantity is expended. The silver obtained from the mines is calculated at thirty thousand marks. Of this amoant twenty-five thousand is coined yearly, and the residue employed in the manufacture #f table plate, and for various other purposes. The difference y4 328 parried by land upon mules, with great trouMe Lnov7enSe ■,, tte ffierChaBt This b<™"<^ W t.o„ wall probably be follows by others hi S v" lmP°rtance- Several large ships and th TfS1 thC harb— f Co-ptioPn and the mouth of the river Maule. The external luTTYI Canied °n Wkh PefU and Sp-^- In the first twenty-three or twenty-four ships of fe or m hundred tons each are employed, w:ch are partly Chi,iao and parti e^an These usually make three yoj & , they carrj from Chm wW wL J ^ j!' 'ard' Ch£es^ «>U> leather, timber to budding, copper, and a variety of other articles, ad bnng ack In ret siher> J^; ^ ^ coUon. The Span.sh ships receive in exchange fo. European merchandise, gold, silver, copper vicugna wool, and hides. A trade with the!S » the quantity shipped from that coined arises from there- cetpts fr„m rjma. The ,.em|.ttences rf goW and s.]ver )o fpat^are usually made from Bueuos Ayres ; the tim, beinS less bulky, 1S carried by the monthly paekets in sums of two or three thousand ounces; as to the second, it is sent in two convoy slops „, the summer, by which conveyances gold is also renntted. In calculating the gold from the remittances, it amounts to six hundred and fifly-six thousand dollars, and the s. Ivei -to two hundred and forty-fonr thousand. The copper, «'nch ,s extracted from the mines, is estimated from eight to •en thousand oaptals. From these data it will not be difficult l« torm a general estimate of all that Chili produces annually. 329 ladies would be more profitable to the Chilians than any other, as their most valuable articles have either become scarce, or are not produced in that wealthy part of Asia, and the passage, in consequence of the prevalence of the south winds in the Pacific, would be easy and expe- ditious. No money is coined or has currency in Chili except gold and silver, a circumstance very embarrassing to the internal traffic. Their smallest silver coin is one-sixteenth of a dollar, and their weights and measures are the same as are used in Madrid. JEND OF THE HISTORY AN ESSAY ON TBS CHILIAN LANGUAGE. The original language of Chili, generally called the Araucanian, is denominated by the natives Chili dugu, the Chilian tongue. The alphabet contains the same letters as the Latin, except the *, which is i« truth nothing more than a compound letter. The s, which has been by some -rammarians wry properly called a hissing rather thaa a letter, is only to be found in about twenty of their words, and never occur* at the termination, which gives to their pronun- ciation a great degree of fulness. The z is still more seldom to be met with. Besides these common letters, ttie Chilian has a mute e and a peculiar u, like the Greeks and the French : the former is designated by the acute, and the latter by the grave accent, to distinguish them from the common e and m. This u is also frequently changed into U in the manner of the modern Greeks. It has besides a nasal g and a th, which '■'•■■ ' ■ 332 is pronounced by pressing the tongue against the roof of the mouth ; the latter is frequently changed into oh, as chegua for thegua (the dog{ In the whole of the Chilian alphabetize is not a .single guttural letter or vocal aspirate, a very singular drcumstance with uncivilized people It is proper to note, that in giving the Chilian words the Italian orthography has been adopted. All the words of the language terminate in the six vowels heretofore noticed, and in the con- sonants b, d, f, g, l, m, n, r, and v. There are, of course, fifteen distinct terminations, which, with their variety, render the language sweet and so- norous. The accent is usually placed upon the penmtuuate vowel, sometimes on the last but never on the antepenult. The radicals, as far as can be collected from the vocabularies, which have been hitherto very imperfect/amount to one thousand nine hundred and seventy-three, and are for the greater part either monosyllables or dissyllables. I have made use of the above term in a much more limited sense than many who improperly call all those words radicals that in any mode produce others. Proceeding upon so false a principle, they make some languages con- tain thirty or forty thousand roots, which must be considered a grammatical paradox. The roots of a language are those simple primitive expressions, which, neither directly nor indirectly derived from any other, produce various words, 333 that afterwards extend themselves into a variety of different forms. Even in the most copious languages,, as the Greek and Latin, the number of these roots is very limited. As far as we have been able to discover, the radical Chilian words have no analogy with those of any other known idiom, though the language contains a number of Greek and Latin words very little varied, as may be seen in the following Table : Chilian. Greek. Aldun Aldein to increase Ale Ele splendour Amun Araoudn logo Cai Kai and Ga Ga in truth Lampaicon Lauipein to shine Mulan Mullen to pulverise Pele Pelos mud Reuma Reuma a stream Tupun Tupein to whip, &c, &c. Chilian. Latin. Aren Ardere to burn Cup a Cupere to desire Dapin Dapinare to feast Ejun Ejulare to weep Lev Levis active or swift Lumulmin Lumen light JJlV Lux brightness Man Man us the right Putun Potare to drink Valin Vale re to be worth Valkn Valere to be able Une Unus one, &c. &c. m This, however, is probably only the result of ;a# accidental combination, for the opinion that they have "been derived from the Spanish is utterly destitute of foundation, the nation being for the most part unacquainted with it, whereas these words are to be found in the earliest vocabularies of the Chilian language. The Chilian nouns arc declined with a single declension, or, to speak with more precision, they are all undeclinable, except by the addition of various articles or particles, which mark the number arid case. They resemble the Greek nouns in having three numbers, the singular, the dual, and the plural, as will appear in the fol- lowing example : Singular. Nom. Cara, the city. Accus. Cam* Gen. Cara-ni. Voc. a Cara. Dat. Cara-meu. Abl. Caramo Dual Nora. Cara+egu, the two cities. A ecus. Cara-egu. Gen. Cara-egu-ni. Voc. a Cara-egu. Dat. Cara-egu-meu. Abl. Cara-egu^nn* Plural. Nom. pu-Cara, the cities Gen. pu- Cara-ni. Oat. pu-Cara- mm. Accus. pu-Cara. Voc. a pu-Cara. Abl. pu-Cara-mo. 335 Instead of pn, the discriminative mark of the plural, the particles ica or egen may be used affixed to the noun, or que placed between the adjective and substantive when they come to- o-ether. Thus Cava will make in the plural either Caraica, or Caraegen, or Cumeque Cava, the good cities. From hence it will be seen that, contrary to the practice in the modern languages of Europe, the article in the Chilian is afnxed to the noun. This mode of declension sometimes occurs in the Greek and Latin languages, in which we meet with a few nouns declined in this manner, though more variously, as musa in Latin, and soma in Greek. The Chilian abounds with adjectives both primitive and derivative. The latteflr are formed from every part of speech by certain in- variable rules, as from tue, earth, comes tuetu, terrestrial ; from quimen, to know, quimchi, wise ; and these, by the interposition of the particle no9 beco :iie negative, as tuenotu, not terrestrial; quimnochi, ignorant. Although these adjectives have all different terminations, they are, never- theless, like the English adjectives, unsusceptible of number, or of gender. The same is the case with the participles and the derivative pronouns, from whence it may be said that the Chilian possesses but one gender. Whether this defect is real or only apparent, it is well compensated by the advantage which the language possesses | 1 of rendering any one secure against the com- mission of a grammatical error, either in writing' or in speaking, as whenever it becomes necessary to distinguish the sexes, the word alca is used to denote the masculine, and domo the feminine gender. The comparative is formed, as in most of the living languages, by prefixing to the positive the particle jod or doi, signifying more, and to the superlatives the adverbs cad Or mu, as doichu, more limpid j friuliu, most limpid. The Chilian wants the diminutives and augmentatives, but these, as in the French, are supplied by the ad- jectives pichi, little, and buta, great. Diminu- tives are also formed by changing a letter of a harsh4 sound for one more harmonious, as votun, son; vochiun, little son. The primitive pro- nouns are, inche,! ; eimi, you ; teye, which, &c. The relatives are, iney, who ; diem, what ; ta or ga, that, &c. The verbs terminate in the in- finitive, as in the Greek and German, in n, with this difference, that all the German verbs end in en, and the Greek in in, except in those cases where they are contracted ; whereas the Chilian terminate in the syllables an, en, in, on, un, and un. They are all, nevertheless, without excep- tion, regulated by a single conjugation, and are of three kinds, active, passive, and impersonal, with three numbers, the singular, the dual, and the plural. They have all the Latin moods and 4 337 tenses, with three or four others, which may be denominated mixed. All the tenses of the indicative produce parti- ciples and gerunds both in active and passive verbs. The terminations of the present tense of each mood serve for the other tenses of the same mood, which are distinguished from one another by certain characteristic particles, as que in the second present tense, 1m in the perfect, uye in the perfect, and a in the first future. The com- pound and mixed tenses are formed by the union of the same particles. These characteristic par- ticles are applicable to all the moods, as well of active as of passive and impersonal verbs. Verbs passive are formed by placing the auxi- liary 'gen, to be, between the radical and the final n of the verb, and is conjugated with the same terminations as the active. The impersonal are formed by annexing the particle am to the radical word, or to the denotement of time. This simple method will appear more clearly in the conju- gation of the verb ehtn, to give, which will serve as a model for all the others, without ex* ception. VERB ACTIVE. INDICATIVE MOOD. Present Tense. Sing. Elun, I give^ Dual. Eluyu, we two give. Eluimi, thou givest. Eluimu, you two give. Elui, he gives, Eluigu, they two give, TOL. lh 2 338 Plural. Eluign, we give. Eluimen, ye give. Eluigen, they give. Second Present, Sing. Eluchen, I give. Eluchemi, thou givest, &cc* Imperfect. Sing. Elulun, I did give. Elubuimi, thou didst give, Sec. Perfect. Sing. Eluuyen, I gave, Eluuyeimi, thou gavest, &c. Pluperfect. Sing. Eluuyebun, I had given. Eluuyebuimi, thou hadst given, &c. jF7rs£ Future. feing. JE/aaa, I will give. Eluami, thou wilt give, &c. Second Future. $ing. Eluuyean, I shall have Eiuuyeai?nii thou shalt have given. given, &c. First Mixed. Sing. Eluabun, I had to give. Eluabuimi, thou hadst to give. Second Mixed. Sing. Eluuyealun, I ought to Eluuyeabuimi, thou oughtest have had to give to have had to give, &c. * The first present of all the verbs is regularly used as the compound preterite; thus elun signifies I give and I have $iven. The second present is that which denotes simply the present moment* 339 IMPERATIVE MOOD. Sing. Eluchi, let me give. Dual. Eluyu, let us two give, Eluge, give thou. Elumu, do you two give. Elupe, let him give. Elugu, let those two give Plural. Eluign, let us give, Elumen, give ye. Elugen, let them give. SUBJUNCTIVE MOOD. Present Tense. •Sing. Eluli, if I may give. Dual. Elulin, if we two may give. Elnlma, if thoumayest Elulmu, if you two may give §ive- £/«/*, if he may give; Elulgu, if we two may give. Plural. Elulign, if we may give. Elulmen, if ye may give. Elulgen, if we may give. Imperfect. Sing. Elubnlhifl might give. Eluhulmi, if thou mightest give, &c. Perfect. First Future. Sing. Eluuyeli, if I may have Sing. £Zwa/i, if I shall give, given. Pluperfect. Second Future. Sing, Eluuyeluli, if I might Sing. Eluuyeali, if I shall have have given. given. First Mized. Second Mixed. Sing. Eluabuli, if I had to give. Sing. Eluyealuli, ifl should have to give. %2 340 OPTATIVE MOOD. The optative is formed of the subjunctive, or of the two mixed tenses of the indicative, with the desiderative particles vclem, vel, or chi an- nexed, as cluli vclem ! God grant that I may give; eluabun chi ! Would to God that I had to give ! INFINITIVE M O O D. The affirmative infinitive is not distinguishable from the first persons singular of the tenses of the indicative, as is the case in most of the pri- mitive languages, and likewise in the English. Thus all the nine tenses of the indicative have their peculiar infinitives, and whenever it be- comes necessary to make a distinction between them, it is done by prefixing some determinative particle. ACTIVE PARTICIPLES. First Present. Perfect. Elulu, he or that who gives. Eluuyelu, he who gave. Second Present. Eluquelu, he who gives. Imperfect. Elululut he who did give. Second Future. Pluperfect. Eluuyehulu, he who had given. First Future. . Elualu, he who shall ijive. First Mixed. Bluuyealu, he who shall have Elualulu, he who shall have .given. t0£ive> 3 341 Second Mixed. Eluuyealulu, he who should have given. ': GERUNDS. First Present. Second Present. Eluyumi'gWmg. Elual, for to give, &c. Imperfect. Eluyulum, when giving, &c. VERB PASSIVE. . INDICATIVE MOOD. Present Tense. Sing. Elugen, I am given. Dual. Elugeyu, we two are Elugeimi, thou art given. given, &c. Elugei, he is given. Imperfect. Elugelum, I was given, &c. &c, PARTICIPLES PASSIVE. First Present. Imperfect. Elugelu, given. Elugelulu, that was given, &c, Second Present. Perfect. Eluel, given.. Eluluel, that was given, IMPERSONAL VERB. INDICATIVE MOOD. First Present. $luam> that is giving. Second Present. Ejuchodm, that is giving. Imperfect. First Future. Eluayam, that shall be given. Second Future. Eluuyeayam, that should be given. First Mixed. Eluluam, that was giving. Eluahuam, that had to give. Perfect. Second Mixed. Eluuyeam, that was given. Eluuyeabuam, that should hav$ to give. Pluperfect. , Eluuyeluam, that had given. IMPERATIVE MOOD. Elupeam, let us give. SUBJUNCTIVE MOOD. Present. Imperfect. Eluleam, that we may give. Eluhuleam, that we should give. Instead of the impersonal verb, the third persor* singular of the passive may be used impersonally; in the manner of the Latin. The above conjugation becomes negative by the admission of the particle la in the indicative. $43 qui in the imperative, which then takes the ter- mination of the conjunctive, and no in the sub- junctive and infinitive moods, as in the following example l Indicative. Elulan, I do not give. ***** thou dost not give, &c. Imperative. Eluquili, let me not give, &c. Subjunctive. Elunoli, if I do not give. Elunolmi, if tliou dost not give, &e. Infinitive. Elunon, not to give, cU. This negative conjugation is much used in all the verbs, but it should be observed that in using it whenever two a% or any other monotonous vowels are brought together, a y is placed be- tween them to avoid harshness, as in the future negative elulayun, not to give. This method gives rise to a number of very singular verbs; as, pilan, I deny ; gelan, I am not ; pelan, I do not see, &c. From hence also comes Ian, to die, that is,' to be nothing ; Man, I shall not die. From the above remarks, it will be seen that almost the whole structure of the Chilian con- jugation consists in the use of the participles, which may be called regulators of time, as either z4 344 singly or Combined they vary and modify the tenses. They also perfectly supply the place of the modem auxiliary verbs. Thus the plu- perfect, participating of the imperfect and per- ffect, is composed of the particles of both. The future perfect is likewise formed from the cha- racteristic particles of the perfect and the future, and combines the signification of both. The same may be observed with regard to the mixed, which adopt the particles or augmentative syl- lables of those tenses that approach nearest them m signification, the first using those of the future and imperfect, and the second those of the per- fect, the future, and the imperfect. The same system, though less obvious, occurs with little variation in the Latin conjugations, the pluper- fect amaveram being apparently composed of the perfect arriayi and the imperfect eram, and amavero of the same perfect and the future ero. Having given a succinct view of the first in- flexions of the verb, I shall proceed to notice the second in which it is equally abundant. Nouns ending in on,* are formed by changing the final n of the infinitive into voe or ve, at eluvoc or eluve, the giver. Those implying action terminate in ue, al, om, mi, and urn. The in- finitive itself becomes a noun, as ilucan, signifies both to pass and a passage. Those calledln the * The Spanish or Latin termination is here meant. 345 Latin nouns in bilis, are formed by the inter- position of the particle vol with a participle, as >eluvALlu, donable, (or that which maybe given), ayuvAUu, amiable, and become negatives by the farther interposition of the particle no. Ab- stract nouns are very frequent, and generally terminate in gen, as ayuvalgen, amiableness, bu- tagen, greatness. The compounds, which in Latin end in etum, and Italian in eto, as castagneto,* terminate in the Chilian in ntu ; rumentu, a bed of flowers ; curantu, a place full of stones ; millantu, a mine of gold. The simple structure only of the verb has hi- therto been noticed. To point out the several combinations it admits, would require a laboured treatise, admitting that each simple verb be- comes, by its union with various particles, the fertile root of numerous other verbs. Of these particles, there are some which, by being pre- fixed, perform the office of the Latin preposi- tions; others are interwoven with the verb itself, and give force to, or gracefully vary its signifi- cation. The following examples of the latter, taken from the numerous derivatives of the. verb dun, will suffice to explain this peculiar forma- tion. Eluclen, to be giving ; eluguen, to give elujecumen, elullen, to give in earnest ; more; eluduamen, to wish to give to come givin: * A grove of chesnut trees. 346 duyaun, to go giving ; elumen, to go to give ♦ elumon, to have occasion to give; elupan, to come to give ; elupen, to doubt to gi\e ; elupran, to give to no purpose ; elupun3 to pass in giving ; elurquen, to appear to give ; eluremun, to give unexpectedly ; elulun, to turn to give ; eluvalen, to be able to give ; elumepran, to go to give in Tain, &c. Two., three,, or more of these particles, when combined, form verbs of such a length as to comprehend an entire sentence, as iduanclolaroin, I do not wish to eat with him ; pemepravin, I went to see him in vaio. The first is composed of live distinct words, in, to eat ; duan3 wish ; do3 with; la, not; vi3 him or it3 and is conju- gated through all its parts like elun3 as iduan* dolavimi, iduamclolavi, 8$c. This kind of ele- gant compound is very common in the Chilian. Verbs are also formed hy a happy combination of others, as from ayen3 to laugh, and thipan, to go out, is derived ayetlripan, to go out laughing; quindugun, to know how to talk ; pepimedan, to be able to present, &c. Verbs neuter become active, and active relative by the use of the par- ticles Cfij, ica> U, Id, ma, and u3 as in the follow- ing instance ; allium, to fatigue one's self; athu- can, to fatigue ; gen, to be ; gein3 to give being io ; jegnenman, to venerate him. From hence it will readily be inferred, that the poetical and rhe* torical expressions of this language are forcible 347 and pathetic ; but, in order to be able to form a proper idea of its copiousness and elegance, it is necessary to hear an Araucanian deliver a public speech. The barbarous languages are generally very deficient in connective particles, but the Chilian, on the contrary, abounds with prepositions, ad- verbs, interjections, and conjunctions. The same prepositions, which in the Latin are placed after the noun, occupy a similar position in the Chilian, as pie, towards; cutu, until; via, therefore. The compound adverbs are formed by adding to the adjectives, and also to the verbs gechi or quechi, as thepengechi, cheerfully; cumequechi, sponta- neously, &c. These are rendered negative by the introduction of the particle no, as thepenge- nochi. The numerals end in Chi, mel, omita ; as marichi, ten times; this latter adverb is also used, as it was by the Pythagoreans, in an un, limited sense, as marichi Hay an, to eat no more. The Chilian contains a variety of interjections: the principal of which are hue, ah ! lue, an ex- pression of joy ; ema, of affection ; veicu, of ad- miration ; eu, of affliction ; ahitlii, of pain ; uya, of indignation ; tutui, of contempt ; chioqui, of ridicule ; sum, of affirmation, &c. Among the conjunctions are cat, notwithstanding; chei) cambe, or; into, tume, if; cam, am, perhaps; rume> although; ca, so that ; uelu, but : petw, . 34>® also ; ckemmOj because; mai, yes ; no, mu, no ; ina-cai, moreover; deuma, after that; ula, to the end that. It contains also many expletory particles, as chi; ga, maga, pichita, cachia, &c. ■ The syntax differs not materially from the con- struction of the European languages. The sub- ject, whether active or passive, may be placed either before or after the verb. Mi peni aculei, your brother has not come, or aculei mi peni, are used indifferently, as are pevin apo, I have seen the governor, or apo pevin. The genetive, or at least its article, is commonly placed before the noun that governs it. The adjective is always placed before its substantive. The articles are sometimes omitted for the sake of brevity or ele- gance, as millalonco, bead of gold ; at other times they are used instead of the substantive, as Columilla agen, the vassals of Coluniilla. The verb is frequently placed in the singular, although its proper number is the dual, or plural, as is also common in the Greek in cases of neutral nouns, as pu cona cupai, the soldiers have come. The auxiliary added to the infinitive of other verbs forms the gerund, as gumangei, he is weeping. The same infinitive, by being placed before the noun that governs it, makes a gerund of the genetive ; as pin-antu, it is the time of speaking: but whenever it indicates motion it admits the articles ni3 mcu, or mo, as ni pagitum ! 349 'cupan, I come to hunting lions. The participle passive is also employed for this purpose with the same articles. Participles and gerunds are very frequent in this language, or rather, they occur in almost every sentence ; whence all the offices of the in- finitive and the relative are usually performed by the participle or the gerund. Laconism is the principal characteristic of the Chilian. From hence arises the almost constant practice of including the passive case in its verb, which, when thus combined, is conjugated in every respect as it is when by itself. A Chilian rarely says elun ruca, I give the house, but in order to express himself with precision he will immediately form both words into the verb elu~ mean, which signifies the same thing. They pursue a similar method with the pronouns, eluun,_ I give myself ; eluen, I give you ; eluvin, I give him or them. This manner of arranging the pronouns, which has some resemblance to the Hebrew, is called by the Chilian grammarians, transition. Of this they distinguish seven kinds, which render the attainment of the language very difficult at first, from the particularity that is requisite to be observed in the use of them. From the same principle proceeds the no less singular practice, already noticed, of converting all the* parts of speech into verbs, in such a manner that the whole knowledge of the Chiliaa : I 350 language may be said to consist in the manage- ment of the verbs. The relatives, the pronouns^ the prepositions, the adverbs, the numerals, and in fine all the other particles as well as the nouns are subject to this metamorphosis, as chiu3 what ? chiumen, what's to be done ? mivu, how many ? mvvui, how many are they ? eimimolan, I have no occasion for you ; minclie, under, minchen, to be under ; melt, four, melin, to be four ; doy, more, doin, to be more ; vem3 like, vemen, to be like another. Proper names are also susceptible of this ele- gance. Thus from Pedro, is formed the verb petron, to be Pedro ; Petrobui, was Pedro. In consequence of this singular variation, the sub- stantives and adjectives produce some very curious verbs; as from pulli or pidlu, the soul, is derived pullun, to apply the whole soul, to pay the greatest attention ; in like manner from then, time comes, thenen, to arrive in time ; from res pure, relcn, to do only one thing, &c. Owing to this property the translation of European works into the Chilian is very easy, in which, instead of losing any of their spirit and elegance, they acquire a degree of precision even superior to the originals. This, among other instances that might be mentioned, is strongly evinced in the Christian Thoughts of the celebrated Bouhours, which was translated in the year seventeen hun- dred and thirteen. There can be no better test 351 of a language than its translations, as its com- parative richness or poverty is rendered more apparent in this mode than in any other. Another remarkable property of the Chilian is the frequent use of abstract words in a pe- culiar manner. Thus, instead of saying pu Huinca, the Spaniards, they commonly say Huin- cagen, the Spaniolity; tamen cuiagen, your trio, that is, you other three ; epu tamen cajugen layai, two of you other six will die, literally, two of your sixths. The verb pin, which signifies to say, is repeated in almost every sentence in familiar conversation, as is usual with the lower class of the Bolognese ; " pu auca cuniegei, pi; dachclai, pi ; dagechelai caU pivin : the Arauca- nians are good, says he ; they do no harm, says he ; then they ought not to be ill-treated, says he." An ambassador or messenger always ex- presses himself in the very words of those who send him, as was customary among the Hebrews and the ancient Greeks. Many more reflections might be made upon the simple structure of this language ; but as these will readily occur to those who have at- tended i to the remarks already made, It will be unnecessary to dwell longer upon the subject. From what knowledge we possess of it, the Chilian appears to combine the genius of the primitive language of the East, with that of the 352 ancient and modern European. It is obvious from its very structure that it is an original lan- guage, and it is a circumstance not a little re- markable, that it should have produced no par- ticular dialect, notwithstanding it has extended itself over a space of one thousand two hundred miles, among so many insubordinate tribes, wholly destitute of all kind of literary inter- course. The Chilians who live in the 24th de- gree of latitude, speak the same language as the natives of the 45th ; nor is there any essential difference between that spoken by the islanders, the mountaineers, or the inhabitants of the plains : the Boroans and Ilicurans alone some- times change the t into s. The Chilotes have adopted several Spanish words, but it has been more owing to a wish to flatter ther masters, than to any preference of them to their own. Were the Chilian a meagre language, its immu- tability might be attributed to its paucity of words, which in such cases, being intended to express only the most simple and common ideas, do not readily admit of change ; but as, on the contrary, it abounds with words, it is wonderful that it has not been divided into a number of subordinate dialects, as has been the case with other primitive languages that have been in any considerable degree extended. 353 CHILIAN WORDS EXPRESSIVE OF NUMBER. Numerals. Quigne, one Mari-quigne, eleven. Epu, two Marie-pu, twelve, &c. Culdy three Epumari, twenty. Melt, four Culamari, thirty. Quechu, five Melimari, forty, &c. <7ayK, six Patacc, one hundred. Relghe, seven Epupataca, two hundred. Para, eight Culapataca, three hundred, &c. Aylla, nine Huaranca, one thousand. Mari, ten Epuhuaranca, two thousand, &c. &c. Quignechi, Quignemel, Quignemita, once. Epuchi, Epumal, Epumetax twice, &c. Z7«en, Unelelu, Quignelelu, Quignegetu, Quignegentu, Quig- mentu, once. Epulelu, Epugelu, Epugentun, Epuntu, &c. twice. Distributives. Calique, Mollquigne, one by one. Epuque, Mollepu, two by two. Quignen, to be one ; Quignelian, to join ; JEpKW, to be two, &c. &c. Quignegen, unity ; Epugen, duality ; Culagen, trinity, &e. Indefinites. Quignelque, several ; Epulgen, about two 5 Culalque, about three. VOL. II, V Aa < 1, ••• fc«fii 354 To the preceding Account of the Language of the Araucanos, which is common to the Moluches, that of Falkner, the Missionary, in his Description of Patagonia, may properly be added. ec The nouns have only one declination, and are all of the common gender. The dative, accusa- tive, and ablative cases, have all the same termi- nation, with their suffix or postposition. There are but two numbers, singular and plural ; the dual being expressed by placing the word epu (which signifies two) before the word : but the pronouns have all the three numbers. The ad- jectives are put before the substantives, and do not vary their terminations, either in case or num- ber: as, Cume good, Cume huentu » good man, Cume huentu eng'n good men. THE DECLINATION OF THE NOUNS. Singular. Plural* JV. Huentu, the man, N. Pu huentu, or •» fc. ^ G. Huentuni, of the man, &c. huentu eng'n 5 B. Huentumo, &• Pu huentu, of the men9 A.Huentumo, and so on, as in the singular. V, Huentu, A. Huentumo-, or Huentu engu, THE PRONOUNS. Xnche„ Eirni, Vei, T'va or T'vachi Velii, Inei. I, thou, he, tLis that; whom. Quisu, Inche quisu, JnchiUf Inchin, he alone, ot himself, I myself, we two, we many. Eimi, Eimu9 355 And} in the same manner^ thou, Eim'n .. you many, you two, For pronouns possessive is used the genitive, or sign of the genitive, of the pronouns ; ni, mine; mi, thine. Likewise m'ten, only; used sometimes as an adjective or pronoun, and, at other times, as an adverb. The verbs have only one conjugation, and are never irregular or defective. They are formed from any part of speech, either by giving it the termination of a verb, or adding to it the verb substantive gen, or, as it is pronounced, 'ngen, which answers to the Latin verb sum, es,fui> &c. EXAMPLES. 1. P'lle, Pllen, or Pllengen, Plley, or Pllengey, 2. Cume, Cumen, Cumengen, Cumelefip near, I am near, he is near. good, to be good. 3. Ata, Ata.ny Atangen, Atal'n, or Atalcan, Evil or bad. to be bad, to corrupt or make bad. The verbs have three numbers, singular, dual, and plural; and as many tenses as in the Greek tongue; all of which they form by interposing i|3 ■ 856 certain particles before the last letter of the indi- cative, and before the last syllable of the sub- junctive: as, to give. Present tense, Elun, Imperfect, Elulun, Perfect, Eluyeen, Preterperfect, Eluyeelun, First Aorist, Elualun, Second Aorist, Eluyeaburtp First Future, Eluan, Second Future, Eluyean, In the subjunctive mood they terminate with the particle U, striking off the letter n in the in- dicative, and varying all the tenses as before : as, Present tense9 Eluli, Imperfect, Elululi, Perfect, Eluyeeli, Preterperfect, Eluyeelidi, First Aorist, Elualuliy Second Aorist, Eluyeabuli, First Future, Eluali, Second Future, Eluyeali. N. B. The Huilliches frequently use, instead of eluyeen, in the perfect tense of the indicative, or eluyeeli, in that of the subjunctive, eluvin and eluvili. I remarked that, for the imperative, they fre- quently used the future of the indicative, and sometimes in the third person ; as, Elupe, Let him give, % 357 A Moloclie Indian, eating an ostrich's egg, and wanting salt, I heard him say, " Chasimota iloavinquin," Let me eat it with salt. Now ilo- avin is the first future, with the particle vi interposed, to signify it, I do not know whether quin is any thing more than a particle of orna- ment; as in the word chasimota; where the con- cluding syllable ta is useless, but for the sake of the sound ; as chasimo, without any addition, is the ablative case of chasi, salt. The tenses are conjugated, through all their numbers, with these terminations in the indica- tive present ; Sing; » imi y Dual iu imu ingu Plural in im'n ing n EXAMPLE. Sing. Elun Eluimi Eluy Dual Eluin Eluimu Eluin gu Plural Eluin Eluim'n Eluing'n, : [N THE SUBJUNCTIVE. Sing. 1% limi liy Dual liu limu lingu Plural iiin lim'n lingn. EXAMPLE. Sing. Eluli Elulimi EMiy Dual Eluliu Elulimu Elu lingu Plural Eluliin Elulim'n Elulingn. , 1 b.a.3 N 358 In this manner all the other tenses are conju- gated. N. B The Second Aorist and the Second Future are only used by the Picunches, and not by the Huilliches. The infinitive mood is formed of the first per- son of the indicative., with the genitive of the primitive pronoun put before, or a possessive pronoun, to signify the person that acts or suffers^ and may be taken from any of the tenses : as, Ni elun, Ni elulun, Ni eluvin, &c. I to give, thou to give, he to give. The other possessives are mi3 thine ; and n'3 his ; for these are only used in the singular. There are two participles, formed in the same manner as the infinitive, to be conjugated through all the tenses ; the one active^ the other passive : Active, Elulu, the person giving. Passive, Eluel, the thing given. PROM THESE ARE DERIVED, Elululu, he that did give, Eluyelu, he that has given, Elualu, he that will give, Eluabulu, he that was to give, Elubuel, the thing that was given, E luyeel, the thing that has been given,, Elual, &c. the thing that will be given. 359 Of all these, and of the aetive verbs, passives are formed, by adding the verb substantive, gen ; in which case, in all the tenses, the variation or declension changes the verb substantive, the ad- jective verb remaining invariable. EXAMPLE. Mugen, 1 have given, Elugebun, I was given, Elugeli, / I can be given, Elungeuyeeli, 1 may have been given, Elungeali, &c. I shall have been given. Another accident, which the verbs in this lan- guage suffer, is that of transition : whereby they signify as well the person that acts, as him on whom the action passes, by the interposition or addition of certain determinate particles to ex- press it. This is common to them with those of Peru ; but the latter use those which are more difficult, and in a greater number. I do not think that the languages of the nations of the Puelches, of the Chaco, or the Guaranies, have this particular property. I do not believe I can recollect them ail ; but I shall endeavour to give the best account I can of these transitions. The transitions are six in number ; From me to thee ox you, From you to me, From him to me, From him to you, From me or you to him, A ft 4 fi .... . • - - - . . ■ 860 And the mutual, when it is reciprocal on both sides. The first transition is expressed by eymi, eymu, and eim'n, in the indicative; and elmi, elmu, and elm'n, m the subjunctive; and this runs through all the tenses : as, Elun, I give, Elueymi, I give to you, Elueymu^ I give to you two, Elueim'n, I or we give to you many And in the subjunctive, Eluelmi, Eluelmu, Elueim'n, With their derivatives, the other tenses. The second transition is from you to me, and Is expressed by the particle en ; as eluen, you give to me ; which has elueiu and eluein, dual and plural. The third transition from him to me is, Sing. Elumon, Dual Elumoiu, Plural Elumoin (when we are many.) In the subjunctive it is, Sing. Elumoli, Dual Elumoliyu, Plural Elumoliin. The fourth transition, From him to thee, is formed by adding eneu to the first person sin- gular; as, Elueneu, he gives to thee • 361 And eymu mo, eim'n mo, to the dual and plural ; And in the subjunctive, Elmi mo, Elmu mo, Eim'n mo. The fifth transition, from me to thee, to this, or that, or him, is formed by the interposition of the particle vi ; as, I give it, or give him, thou givest him, he giveth him, we or you two give to him, or give it. t we many give to him,or give it. Eluvin, Eluvimif. Eluvi, Eluviyu, Eluvimu, Eluviu, Eluvim'n, The subjunctive is Eluvili. This I perceive to be something equivocal with the perfect tense of the Huilliches : yet they like to use it, though they themselves know the impropriety of it. Nor is this the only ground of equivocation in their tongue, which is found especially in the prepositions ; where one having many significations, the meaning is oftentimes very much confused ; as may be seen in the de- clination of their nouns. The sixth and last transition is conjugated through all the numbers, moods, and tenses, in the same maimer as the simple verbs, and is 862 formed by the interposition of the particle huu9 or, as it is pronounced, wu ; as, TLluhwn, or > . „ > I give to myself, Euwun, S dyuwimi, tliou lovest thyself, Ayuhui, he loveth himself, Ayuhuim'n, &c. you love one another. They have another particular mode of com- pounding verbs, altering their significations, making affirmatives negatives, neuters actives, and of signifying and expressing how and in what manner the thing is done, by the interpo- sition of prepositions, adverbs, adjectives, &c. as, Cupan, to come, Na u cup an, to come downwards, Nog'n, to fall, Nogcumen, to make to fall, Payllacnon, to put one's mouth upwards ; from paillcij mouth upwards, c'non, to put. to rebel, to rebel over again, to make to rebel, death or to die, to kill, to kill Indians : Aucan, Aucatun, Aucatul'n, Lan, Langm'n, LangnCcheny from langm'n, to kill, and che, Indian or man, Ayun, to love, Ayulan, not to love. Pen signifies to see ; pevin is, I saw him ; tiemgCj on this mat ler ; and la is the negative. These 363 words are compounded into one, thus, pevemge- lavin, I saw him not on this manner. The numeral words in this language are com- plete, and may he used to describe any number whatsoever. Quine, one, Melt, four, Cayu, six, Epu, two, Kechu, five, Selge, seven, Quila, three, Mari (or Massi, as the Huilliches have it) ten, The intermediate numbers are composed as follows: Pataca, a hundred, Huaranca, a thousand. Massi quine, eleven, Epu massi epu, twenty-two, Massi epu, twelve, Epu massi quila, twenty-three, thirteen, Quila pataca, three hundred, twenty, Selge pataca, seven hundred. Massi quila, Epu massi, THE ADVERBS, &c. Mu, May, Chay, or Chayula, Vule, no, yes, to-day, or presently, to-morrow, T'vou, here, Vellu, there, Pile, near, Allu mapu afar off, jViztt, under, or downwards, Huenu, above, Pule, against, Allu pule, distant, Chumgechi, on what manner, Vemgechi or vemge, on this manner, C the Latin prepositions, in, con- Mo, or meu, < tra, cum, per, ob, propter, ^ intra, Cay, and Chayt placed after a noun, or, alone, and, perhaps, Huecu, without. 364 To give some further idea of this language, I add the following specimens of it : THE SIGN OF THE CROSS. Santa crux ni gnelmeu, inchin in pu By the sign of the holy cross, from our caynemo montulmoin, Dios, inchin in enemies deliver us, O God, our Apo ; Ckao, VotcKm cay, Spiritu Santo cay, Lord ; the Father, and Son, and the Holy Ghost, ni wimeu. Amen, in the name of. Amen. THE BEGINNING OF THE LORD'S PRAYER. Inchin in Chao^ huenumeuia mHeymi, Our Father, in Heaven thou that art, ufckingepe mi wi; eymi mi toquin hallowed be thy name ; thy kingdom inchinmo cupape; eymi mi piel% to us may it come ; thy will, chumgechi vemgey huenu-mapumo, as it is done in Heaven, vemgechi cay vemengepe tue-mapumo ; &c» so likewise may it be done on earth ; &c. THE BEGINNING OF THE CREED. Mupiltun Dios, Chaomo vilpepilvoe, huenu I believe in God, the Father Almighty, of Heaven vemvoe, tue vemvoe cay ; inchin in Ap* the maker, and of earth the maker also ; in our Lord Jesu Christomo cay, veyni m'ten Votch'm, tsfc Jesus Christ also, his only son, &c. THE BEGINNING OF THB CHRISTIAN DOCTRINE. Q. Chumten Dios rriley ? How many Gods are there I A. Quine m'ten. One only. Q Cheu m'ley ta Dios? Where is God % 365 A. HuenU'mapumo, tue-mapumo, In Heaven, in earth, vilUmapumo sume cay, and in all the world wheresoever. Q. Iney cam Dios ? Who is God ] A. Dios Chao, God the Father, Dios Votch'm, God the Sod, Dios Spiritu Santo ; cay quila Persona geyum, God the Holy Ghost ; and being three Persons, quiney Dios m'ten, are one God only. Q. Chumgechi, quila Persona geyum, quine m'ten ta Dios f How, being three persons, God is one alone 1 A. Tvachi quila Persona quine These three Persons have one only gen-n'gen, veyula quine mien ta Dios, Being, for this God is one alone. These specimens are accommodated to the Indian expression, and intermixed with a few Spanish words, where the Indian idiom is insuf- ficient, or might give a false idea. And this, with the short vocabulary annexed, may suffice to give a small but imperfect notion of this lan- guage. I omit several common words, because they have been already explained. VOC A P'LLU, the soul, a spirit. Lonco, the head, the hair. Az, the face. N'ge, the eyes. Wun or Huun, the mouth. Gehuun, the tongue. Yu, the nose. Voso, the teeth, the bones, Anca, the body. Pue, the belly. BU L AR Y Cuugh, the hand. Namon, the foot. Pinque, the heart. P'nen, a child. 0 Nahue, a daughter. Peni, a brother. Penihuen, own brothers. Huinca, a Spaniard. Seche, a neat Indian. Huenuy, a friend. 366 Caynle, aw enemy. Huincha, a head-fillet. Makun, a mantle. Lancattu, glass beads. Cofque, bread. Ipe, food. In, or ipen, to eat. Ho, flesh, Hon, to eat flesh. Putun, drink, to drink. Putumum, a cup. Chilca, writing. Chilean, to write. Sengu, a word, language ; also a thing. Huayqui, a lance. Huayquitun, to lance. Chinu, a knife, a sword. Chingoscun, to wound. Chingosquen, to be wounded. Conan, a soldier. Conangean, he that is to be a sol dier. Amon, to walk or go. Anun, to sit. Anupeum, a seat or stool. Anunmahuun, to feel inwardly. Poyquelhuun, to feel, or per- ceive. Con'n, Ifo enter. Tipan, to go out. Cupaln, to bring. Entun, to take away. Aseln, to be averse. Aselgen, to hate. M'ien, to be, to possess. Mongen, lite, to live. Mongetun, to revive. Suam, the will. Suamtun, to will. Pepi, power. Pepilan, to be able. Quimn, knowledge, to know. Quimeln, to learn. Quimelcan, to teach. Pangi, a lion. Choique, an ostrich. Achahual, a cock or hen. Malu, a large lizard or iguana. Cusa, a stone, an egg. Saiguen, a flower. Milya, gold. Lien, silver. Cullyin, money, payment. Cullingen, to be rich. Cunnubal, poor, miserable, an orphan. Cum panilhue (red metal) cop- per. Chos panilhue (yellow metal) brass. Gepun, colour, or painting. Saman, a trade, an artificer. Mamel, a tree, wood. Mamel-saman, a carpenter. Suca-saman, a house-builder. Autuigh, the sun, a day. Cuyem or Kiyem, the moon, a month. Tipantu, a year. K'tal, fire. Asee, hot. Chosee, cold. Atutuy, it is shivering cold." APPENDIX. No. I. Account of the Archipelago of Chiloe, extracted chiefly from the Descripcion Histortal of that Province, ly P. R Pedro Gonzalez de Agueros. — Madrid, 1791. i. HE Province and Archipelago of Chik>6 extends from point Capitanes to Quilan, from latitude 41. 30. south to 44. Longitude from the meridian of TenerhTe 302. to 303. 25. On the north it is bounded by the continent, where the Juncos and Rancos, two unconverted nations, possess the country to^ wards Valdivia, to the north-east by the district of Osorno, a city no longer in existence, south by the Archipelago of Guai- tecas, east by the Cordillera, which separates it from Pata- gonia, and west by the Pacific Ocean. The inhabited part of the province extends from Maullin to Huilad, comprising forty leagues of latitude, and from 1 8. to 20. of longitude, and consisting of twenty-five islands. Ma Grande, Achao, Lemiii, Quegui, Chelin, Tanqid, Li?ilin, Llignua, Quenac, Meulin, Caguach, Alan, Apedu, Chaulinec, Vuta-Chauquis, Anigue, Chegnidu, Caucague, Calluco, Llaicha, Quenu,Taibon, Altaic, Chiduapi, and Knar. Isla Grande, being as its name imports the largest of these islands, is the most populous, and the seat of government. Castro, its capital, and the only city in the province, was 368 founded in 1566, by the marshal D. Marten Ruiz de Gamboa, during the administration of the viceroy Lope Garcia de Castro, in Peru. The navigation of this Archipelago is very dangerous, from the strength and number of the currents, and nothing can be worse adapted for so perilous a sea than the boats which are used. These piraguas, as they are called, are without keel or deck. The planks of which they are made are laced together with strong withes, and calked with pounded cane leaves, over which the withes are passed : the cross timbers are fastened with tree-nails, In these vessels, so easily overset, the Chilotes, as the inhabitants of these islands are called, venture with a fearlessness which they derive from their being accustomed to danger, not from their skill in avoiding it. Their main suste- nance is from the sea, which is generally most bountiful when the earth is least so. The mode of fishing is, I believe, peculiar to themselves. At low water they stake in a large sweep of shore, knitting the stakes together with basket-work ; the flood covers these corrales, or pens, and at the ebb the fish are left there. A sea weed, which they call luche, is also used for food. They dry it, and then, by some unexplained process, form it into loaves or cakes, which are greatly esteemed not only in Chiloe, but even by the wealthy inhabitants of Lima. Seals are more numerous in the adjoining Archipelagos of Guaitecas and Guayneco : none but the Indians eat them, and their constant use of this rank food is said to impart to them so rank an- odour, that it is almost necessary to keep to wind- ward when you talk with them. Whales sometimes run them- selves aground here, though they are more frequent farther to the south: they have probably retired from a coast where they are persecuted, for ambergris was formerly found ia great abundance upon these shores, but is now rarely cast up. All the islands are mountainous or craggy, a few valleys among the hills, and the flat ground near the shore, are all lhat ajre cultivated. On this belt of cultivated ground all the m settlements in Isla Grande are built, forty-one in number; there is a road across the mountains, but the whole of the in^ terior is waste. The Isle of Quinchau has six settlements, Lemui and Llaicha each four, Calbuco three, the other in- habited islands only one each, and on the continent there .are three. These pueblos may better be called parishes than any thing else ; for the houses are as scattered as the property i every one lives upon his land, and the church stands near the beach, with a few huts round it, erected merely for the pur- pose of lodging the parishioners when they coine to mass, or any festival. In the whole Archipelago there are but four places where the houses are near enough together to assume the appearance of a village, Chacao, Calbuco, the city of Gastro, and the Puerto de San Carlos. This last is the largest and most flourishing. In 1774 it contained sixty houses, and. four hundred and sixty- two inhabitants: in 1791 there were above two hundred houses, and the population exceeded eleven hundred. But its prosperity is founded upon the ruin of Chacao ; for; till as late as 1?(>8, Chacao was the only port in the Archipelago. This harbour is very dangerous in con- secj of rocks and shoals, and is also exposed to the north an*. ,i-east. On this account, Don Carlos de Beranger, when governor of the province, recommended that a town should be built at Gacui del Ingles; and accordingly, in 1767, orders were issued by the court of Madrid to that effect. "The bay was then newly named Bahia del Rey, and the harbour, Puerto de San Carlos. It is situated in latitude 41. 5J. south. Ships are frequently wrecked at the entrance, but this is en- tirely occasioned by the tremendous hurricanes which come on suddenly, and completely hide the land. The port itself is good. San Carlos is now the seat of government. It is difficult to Understand what motives could have in» duced the Spaniards to settle in this miserable country, when. there was the whole of this side of South America open to them. Where there is gold or silver to be found, men wiH VQfc. II. B b ■H 370 settle, however barren and unfavourable the country— where wealth is to be acquired by trade they will herd together, no matter how pestilential the situation. But Chiloe offers nothing to avarice, and only a bare and comfortless subsistence to industry. Perhaps the main part of the first settlers were from Chili, families who had escaped from the Araucanos, who wanted means to remove themselves to Peru, or to subsist if they had got there, and were glad therefore of any place of rest and security. There is, I believe, no other colony in the world to which Europeans have carried so few of their arts and comforts ; nor indeed have they ever attempted to colonize against so many natural disadvantages, except in two instances, the project of Philip II. to fortify the straits of Ma- galhaens, and the unaccountable settlements of the Norwe- gians in Greenland. It frequently rains during a whole moon without intermission, and this rain is accompanied by such tremendous hurricanes, that the largest trees are torn up by the roots, and the inhabitants do not feel safe in their houses. Even in January, which is their midsummer, they have often- times long and heavy rains. During the height of the storm, if the clouds open to the south, however small may hje this opening, fine weather succeeds ; but first the wind com*/. s^4!< denly from the south, with even greater violence than it had blown before from the opposite quarter, and with a sound as sudden and as loud as the discharge of cannon. Vessels are never in more danger than during these tremendous changes; the storm passes with rapidity proportioned to its violence, and then the weather clears. Thunder and lightning are seldom perceived here. The islands suffered severely by an earthquake in 173J, and a few days afterwards, it is said, that an exhalation or cloud of fire, coming from the north, passed over the whole Archipelago, and set fire to the woods in many of the islands of Guaitecas. It is said also, that those islands were covered with ashes, and that vegetation did not begin to appear upon them again till the year 1750. 371 Notwithstanding the quantity of rain which falls, the climate is not unhealthy ; but never had people more cause to believe literally that the ground was cursed to bring forth thorns and thistles, and that it is the punishment of man to eat bread with the sweat of his brow tfcan these poor Chilotes. They are proofs of the authenticity of this anathema, says their historian; for perhaps there are no other people in the world who labour so hard, and procure so little. Such is their poverty, that there is no iron among them, or at least so little, that the family which happens to possess an axe, lays it by as a treasure. Their substitute for the plough consists in two separate stakes, about seven or eight feet long : one end is sharp, the other inserted in a round ball. These they take one in each hand, fix the point against the ground, and force the ends on with the body, which is protected with a sheep- skin during this rude exertion. Laborious as this mode must needs be, even in the lightest soil, it is rendered still more so by the myrtle-roots which overspread the open country. The little corn which is raised can never be left to ripen, because of the rains j they cut it before it is ripe, and hang its sheaves in the sunshine, if the sun happens to shine, otherwise they let it dry within doors. Bread is of course a delicacy re- served for great occasions; and so little is the ordinary stock of corn, that many families let it remain in the ear till it is wanted for use. Good potatoes supply the want of bread, and Chiloe produces better than any part of Peru. Apples and strawberries are their only fruit ; these are good, and plentiful. The woods produce a plant called quilineja, much resembling the espart • of Spain, from which they manu- facture their cables, and with various leafless parasitic plants, which supply the want of smaller cordage. A species of wild cane serves to roof their houses, and its leaves are the fodder of the few horses which are kept. A tree, which the Spaniards call alerse, and the Indians lahual, grows abundantly upon that part of the continent which is included in this province, and Bb2 372 furnishes the main branch of their external commerce. FrOn* 50 to 60,000 planks are annually sent to Lima., The wood grows to a great size, and its grain is so even that it is cleft with wedges into boards of any thickness, even better and smoother than could be done bj the saw. Neither Agueros nor Falkner had ever seen the tree; the latter supposed it, from the description which he had heard, to be of the fir tribe! If plants or seeds of this tree, be says, were brought over into England, it is very probable they would thrive here", the climate being as cold as in the country where it grows : and it is there reckoned to be the most valuable timber they have, both for it* beauty and duration. The bark of the "abrse makes ex- cellent oakum for that part of a ship which is under water, but must not be used when it would be exposed to the sun and air. They export also the wood of the luma for axle-trees and poles of coaches, of the hazle for ship-building, and especially for oars, and chests and boxes of cypress and of ciruelillo. Hams form a main article of export, pigs being the only ani- mals which abound in this Archipelago, because they keep themselves. Few sheep are kept, enough however to furnish employment for the women with their wool. They make the poncho, two of which are a full year's work for a woman, working as they do without a loom ; the warp is stretched and fastened with pegs, and they then weave with their finders, and with this painful industry what they make is re- markably fine, strong, and beautiful, They make also a smaller kind of poncho called lordillos, which are the ordinary- dress of the negroes at Lima; blankets and rugs, which are curiously wrought pa colours. Linen they weave in a loom. During their summer, when the vessels from Callao arrive, San Carlos is like a fair. This is the oniy opportunity the Chi- lores have of supplying themselves with any thing except what they produce themselves, and their only opportunity also of disposing of their surplus produce. There is no ci& 1:; 373 eulating medium, and trade is therefore carried on by barter. This would leave the islanders at the mercy of the Lima mer- chants, if it were not for the interference of government. When the first ship arrives, the cabildo, or municipality of San Carlos, fixes the price in money at which every thing shall be rated. It is obvious that such an interference is absolutely necessary, the Chilotes being obliged, when they bought, to pay what the seller chose to demand, and when they sold, to take what the purchaser chose to give. Still it would ma- terially benefit them if they could export their goods them- selves; but the whole Archipelago does not contain one vessel large enough for a voyage to the ports of Peru, or even Chili. The soldiers who were formerly paid in clothes and other effects, are, by a late regulation, that is about eighteen or twenty years ago, to be paid in specie. If this be continued, it must have produced an important change in Chiloe. The militia of the Archipelago consists pf 1,569 men, including officers: they do garrison duty, but receive no pay, nor even ratios. San Carlos has a garrison of regular troops, consisting of 33 artillerymen, 53 dragoons, and 53 infantry. There are but two classes of people in Chiloe, Spaniards and Indians, no negroes, and no mixed breed. Why there are no negroes is explained by the poverty of the islanders; how it has happened that the other races have not intermingled is not explained. This is the more remarkable, because no. where, perhaps, has so extraordinary a change in language taken' p^ce us among these islands; during the last half century that of the Indian inhabitants has changed : they now speak a language of which the words are Spanish, but all the inflections, syntax, and idioms, Chilese, that is to say,* Moluche. The Spaniards, both men and women, go barefoot, except * This very remarkable fact is noticed by Hervas in his &reat w»fk Upon languages. Agueros has overlooked it. Bl>3 374: a few of the principal families, who sacrifice convenience to pride ; for in a country so continually wet, it is safer to expose the feet than to cover them. The men usually wear the poncho instead of the cloak. Their houses, or rather hovels, are built of wood, and the crevices stopped with pieces of sheep-skin, and with rags ; the roofs are of thatch, which rots so soon in that rainy climate, that it must frequently be renewed. They consist of a single room, in which the family, the poultry, and whatever cattle they happen to possess, are equally accomodated. The few who can afford it build better houses, but still of wood, divide them into several apartments, wainscot them within, and roof them with planks. Fires are very frequent, but as the houses are scattered, the mischief does not extend. Such is the inclemency of the weather, and such the state of the roads, that a family in one of these solitary habitations is often weeks, and sometimes months, without any communi- cation with their neighbours. There is neither hospital, phy- sician), nor physic, in the Archipelago. A sick person is laid upon a bed, or upon a heap of skins, close to a large fire, and there they let him lie. The missionaries could find no books to teach the children to read ; and when they would have taught them to write, there was no paper. Necessity produced a substitute : they made wooden tablets, which, like slates, could be washed clean when they were filled. Such is the miser- able situation of the Spaniards in Chilo6, they dare not leave their wretched birth-place in the hope of bettering their for- tunes ; for those who have attempted it have been cut off by the small-pox, a disease unknown in the Archipelago. The whole population, in ] 783, amounted to 23,477, of whom 1 1,985 were Spaniards.— -E. E. APPENDIX. No. IL Account of the Native Triles who inhahit the Southern Extre- mity of South America, extracted chiefly from Falkner's description of Patagonia. ERCILLA has made the name of Araucano so celebrated, that it must not be changed. But it properly belongs only to those hordes of the Picunches who possessed the country of Arauco. The nations who inhabit this extremity of South America are known among themselves by the general names of Mo- luches and Puelches. The Moluches, or warlike people, as the word implies, are divided into the Picuuches, or people of the north, Pehuenches, people of the fine country, and Huil- liches, people of the south. The first of these inhabit the mountains from Coquimbo to somewhat below Santiago, in 7hili. The second border upon them to the north, and extend rom the parallel of Valdivia^o 35 degrees south latitude. oth these are included in history under the name of Arau- nos. The long and obstinate wars with the Spaniards, with 2 Puelches, and with one another, have greatly diminished >ir numbers; but they have been still more diminished by havoc which brandy has made among them. For this irsed liquor, as it may well be called by the American Bb4 316 Indians, they have been known to sell their wives and children: the madness which it produces occasions bloodshed ; and the deaths which then happen bring on deadly feuds. The small-pox has nearly completed the work of drunkenness and of war; and when Falkuer left the country they were not able to muster four thousand men among them all. The Huilliches possess the country from Valdivia to the straits of Magalhaens. They are subdivided into four nations, who are improperly classed under one general appellation, inasmuch as three of them are evidently a different race from the fourth. That branch which reaches to the sea of Chiloe, and beyond the lake of Nahuelhuaupi, speaks the general language of Chili, differing only from the Pehueuches and Pi- cunches in pronunciation. The others speak a mixed lan- guage of the Moluche and Tehuel (or Patagonian) tongue,and are, by their greater stature, manifestly of Patagonian origin. Collectively they are called the Vuta, or Great Huilliches; separately, Chonos, who inhabit the Archipelago of Chiloe, and its adjoining shores. Poy-yus, or Peyes, who possess the coast from latitude 48. to something more than 51. and Key- yus, or Keyes, who extend from thence to the Straits. The Moluches maintain some flocks of sheep for their wool, and sow a small quantity of corn. The Piieiches, or eastern people, so called hy those of Chili, are bounded on the west by the Moluches, south by the Straits, east by the sea, and north by the Spaniards. They are sub- divided into four tribes: 1. The Taluhets, a wandering race, who prowl over the country from the eastern side of the first Desaguadero, as tar as the lakes of Guanacache, in the juris- diction of St. Juan and St. Luis, de la Punta. There are some also in the jurisdiction of Cordova, on the rivers Quarto, Ter- cero, and Segundo. When the Jesuits were expelled they could scarcely raise two hundred lighting men of their own nation, and not above five hundred with all their allies. 2, The Diuihets, also a wanderiug race, who border west- 877 warily upon the Pehuenches, from 35 to 93 degrees south, and extend along the rivers Sanquel, Colorado, and Hueyque, nearly to the Casuhati on the east. This nation, and that of the Taluhets, arc collectively called Pampas by the Spaniards, whose settlements in Tucunmn and on the southern shore of the Plata they have always infested, and sometimes endangered. 3. The Chechehets, or people of the east: the country which tliev chiefly frequent is between the rivers Hueyque and the first Desaguadero, or river Colorado, and from thence to the second Desaguadero, or river Negro. They are a wandering race, tall and stout like the Patagons, but they speak a dif- ferent language : their dispositions are friendly and inoffensive, but when provoked they are a bold and active enemy. The small-pox has reduced them to a very small number. 4. The Tehuelhets, or in their own language Tehuel-Kunnees, southern men; these are the Patagons. They are divided into many tribes, all of whom, and the Chechehets also, are called by the Spaniards Serranos, or Mountaineers. The Leuvuches, who seem to be the head of all the Serranos, live on the river Negro. They speak the language of the Chechehets, with a small mixture of the Tehuel tongue. It was their policy to be at peace with the Spaniards, that they might hunt securely in the immense plains, or pampas, as they are called, of Buenos Ayres, but about the year 1740 they were provoked by a most wanton and treacherous attack to take arms; and Buenos Ayres would probably have been destroyed, had not the. Jesuit missionaries appeased these injured people. The Tehuelhets are more numerous than all the otheV Indians of ■these parts; they are the enemies of the Moluches, and had they been as well supplied with horses, these latter, who are so terrible to the Spaniards, would long since have been destroyedo To the south of these live the ChulilaurKunnees, and Se« huau-Kunnees, who are the most southern of the equestrian tribes. The country beyond them to the straits is possessed by the last of the Tehuel nations, who are called Yacana* Kunnees, or foot people : an inoffensive race, fleet of foot, and subsisting chiefly upon fish. The other Tehuelhets and ihe Huiliiches sometimes attack them for the purpose of making slaves. The ordinary stature of all the Tehuel tribes is from six to * seven feet. None of the Puelches either keep sheep or sow, but depend entirely upon hunting, for which purpose they keep great numbers of dogs. Of the religion of the Moluches, Molina has given a full ac- count. The belief in an infinite number of spirits, good and evil, is common to all the tribes south of the Plata, north of which a different language and different form of superstition prevails to Ihe Orinoco. It does not appear that the Pueiciies acknowledge any of these spirits as supreme over the others. The Taluhets and Diuihets call a good spirit Soychu, or he who presides in the land of strong drink. The Tehuelhets call him Guayava-Kunnee, lord of the dead. The Tehuelhets and Cliechehets call an evil spirit Atskannakauatz, the other Puelches, Vaiichu. Neither of these names are explained by Falkrer, nor does his Vocabulary include any thing which can explain them. Huecuvu must be another name for the same evil beings ; for a great sandy desert, which the Chechehets never enter lest they should be overwhelmed there, is called Huecuvu Mapu, the devil's country. Each family, as among the northern Indians, is of a cast or tribe which they distinguish by the name of an animal : some are of the cast of the tiger, some of the lion, some of the guanaco, of the ostrich, &c. and they believe that each cast had its particular creator, who resided in some huge cavern under lake or hill, whither all of that cast will go after death, to enjoy the happiness of being eternally drunk. These good spirits, they believe, made the world, and then made men in their caves. To the Indians they gave the spear, the bow * It is curious that Falkner, though this is his own statement, which is repeatedly confirmed in his book, should yet say he never heard of that gigantic race which others have mentioned. 379 and arrow, and the ball and thong; to the Spaniards, fire- amis and swords, and then sent them abovp ground. Animals were created in like manner in these subterraneous caves ; those who were the nimblest came out first ; but when the bulls and cows were coming out last of all, the Indians were frightened at the sight of their horns, and stopped up the mouth of their caves. The Spaniards were wiser, and thus they explain why they had no kine till the Spaniards intro- duced them. It is their opinion that all the animals who have been created below are not yet come out. All the evil which happens either to man or beast they at- tribute to evil spirits, who are continnally wandering about the world ; even fatigue is attributed to their agency. Each of their priests, or rather jugglers, is supposed to have two of these spirits as his familiars, and their souls after death are associated to them, and perform the same works of mis- chief. The jugglers are of both sexes, but it seems as if it were thought an occupation unbefitting a man, for the wizard* are compelled to dress like women, and restricted from mar- riage. Witches are under no such restriction. They are generally chosen while children : those who are most effemi- nate are selected, but all who are afflicted with epilepsy, or St. Vitus's dance, are considered as essentially marked out by the evil spirit themselves for their service. It is a dangerous service, for if any calamity befal either chiefs or people, the priests are frequently put to death. No ceremonies are performed towards the good spirits; and that which is addressed to the evil ones is improperly de- nominated worship by Falkner. To perform it, he says, they assemble together in the tent of the wizard, who is shut up from the sight of the rest in a corner of the tent. He has a small drum, one or two round calabashes, with small sea- shells in them, (the maraca probably of the Brazilian tribes) and some square bags of painted' bide, in which he keeps his spells. He begius the ceremony by making a strange noise 380 with his drum and rattle-box, after which he feigns a fit ©r struggle with the evil spirit, who, it is then supposed, has en- tered into him ; keeps his eyes lifted up, distorts the features of his face, foams at the mouth, screws up his joints, and after many violent and distorting motions, remains stiff and motionless, resembling a man seized with an epilepsy. After some time he comes to himself, as having got the better of the demon: next feigns within his tabernacle a faint, shrill, mournful voice, as of the evil spirit, who by this dismal cry is supposed to acknowledge himself subdued, and then, from a kind of tripod, answers all questions that are put to him. Whether his answers be true or false is of no great conse- quence, because if his intelligence should prove false, it is the fault of the spirit. On all these occasions the wizard is well paid. They make skeletons of their dead. This practice, which prevails on the Orinoco also, is not used by any of the tribes between the Orellana and the Plata. One of the most dis- tinguished women-performs the dissection: the entrails are burnt, and the bones, after the flesh has been cut oil' as clean as possible, are buried till the remaining fibres decay. Within a year they must be removed to the burial place of the family. This is the custom of the Moluches and Pampas, but the Ser- ranos place the bones on high upon a frame-work of canes or twigs, to bleach in the sun and rain. While the dissector is at work upon the skeleton, the Indians walk round the tent, ■ covered with long mantles of skins, and having their faces blackened with soot, singing in a mournful voice, and striking the ground with their long spears, to drive away the evil spirits. Some go and condole with the widow and relations of the dead, if these persons be wealthy enough to pay them for their mourning with bells, beads, and other such trinketry : it is not a sort of condolence to be gratuitously offered, for they prick their arms and tlrtghs with thorns, and feel pain at least, if not sorrow, The horse s of the dead are immediately 381 killed, that he may ride upon them in Alhue Mapu, the country of the dead ; only a few are reserved to carry his bones to the sepulchre, and for the last ceremony. When the bones are to be removed they pack them up in a hide, and lay them on the favourite horse of the deceased, which they adorn in their best manner with mantles, feathers, &c. and in this manner they travel to the family burial-place, which is sometimes three hundred leagues off, so wide are their wanderings. The Moluches and the Pampas bury them in large square pits, about a fathom deep: the bones are put together and tied in their places, then clothed with their best robes, and ornamented with beads and feathers, all of which are cleansed or changed once a year. They are placed in a row, sitting, with all the weapons and other things which be- longed to the dead. The vault is then covered over with beams and twigs, over which the earth is thrown. An old matron from each tribe is appointed to take care of these graves. She opens them every year, and clothes and cleans the skeletons ; for which she is held in great veneration. The bodies of the horses are placed round the grave, raised upon their feet, and supported by stakes. These graves are in general not far from their ordinary habitations. Every year they pour upon them some bowls of their first made chica, and drink to the good health of the dead. The Tehuelhets and southern tribes carry their dead to a great distance from their dwellings, into the desert by the sea-coast, where they set them in order above ground, with their horses round them. Tt is probable that they reduce them to skeletons only when they have to carry them a considerable distance, for in the Voyage of Discovery, made in 1746 by the St. Antonio, from Buenos Ayres to the Straits, the Jesuits who accom- panied that expedition found one of these tents or houses of the dead. On one side there were six banners, as they may i » be called, of cloth of various colours, each about ha!f-ell square, set upon high poles, which were fked in the ground* 382 on the other five dead horses stuffed with straw, and supported each upon three stakes. Within the house they found two ponchos, or Indian garments, extended, and the bodies of two men and one woman, upon which the hair and the flesh* were still remaining. On the top of the house was another poncho, rolled up and tied with a coloured woollen band, and in this a pole was fixed, like the pole of a vane, from which eight tassels of wool were suspended. Widows are cempelled to observe a rigorous mourning ; for a whole year after the husband's death they must keep themselves close shut up in their tents, having no communi- cation with arty one, nor ever stirring out except for the common necessaries of life. They must abstain from the flesh of horses, ostriches and guanacoes, and from beef: they must never wash face or hands, but blacken themselves with soot ; and any breach of chastity would be punished with death, by the relations of the husband, in both parties. The office of ya, or chief, is hereditary, and all his sons may be chiefs if they can get Indians to follow them ; but the dignity is of so little advantage, that it is not coveted. The chief has the power of protecting those who apply to him, of composing or silencing disputes, or of delivering up an offender to be put to death. In these cases his will is the law. Wherever there is no other law it is better to be entirely law- less. These petty despots are prone to bribery, and will sa- crifice their vassals, and even their kindred, when well paid for it. They are esteemed in proportion to their eloquence ; and the chief who is not eloquent has an orator to harangue the people for him. When two or more tribes form an alli- ance against a common enemy, they chuse an apo, or com- mander in chief, from the ablest or most celebrated of the Caziques. But this honour, though still nominally elective, has * Falkner therefore is mistaken in saying they were sheletofls. An abstract from the original journals is printed by Charlevoix, in his Hist, du Paraguay, 383 for many years been hereditary among the southern nations in the family of Cangapol. The hereditary Chiefs or Elmens, as Falkner calls them, (the Ulmenes of Molina) have no power to take any thing from their vassals, nor can they oblige them to perform any kind of work without paying them: on the contrary, they must treat them "* kindly, and relieve their wants, or they will put themselves under the protection of another. Many of the Elmens therefore waive the privilege of their birth, and refuse to have any vassals, because they cost them much, and yield little profit. But if any body of people were to attempt to live together without a chief at their head, they would undoubtedly be killed or carried away as slaves ; so hostile are even such despots as these to republicanism . The husband buys his wife of her nearest relations, with or without her consent ; he then takes her as his property. But if the woman has fixed her affections on another, she some- times wears out the patience of her purchaser, and he turns her away, or sells her to the man of her choice, but seldom treats her ill. Widows and orphans are at their own disposal. The Yas or Elmens have two or three wives at a time; the common people may have as many as they please also, but wives are dear, and they have rarely more than one. The lives of the women are one continued scene of labour : they fetch wood and water; they dress the food; they make, mend, and clean the tents ; they cure the skins, and make them into mantles; they spin, and make the ponchos-, they pack up every thing for a journey, even the tent-poles ; they load, un- loac^, and settle the baggage ; straiten the girths of the saddles, and carry the lance before their husbands, and at the journey's end set up the tent. Sickness or pregnancy, however far ad- vanced, never exempt them from these labours ; and it would be in the highest degree ignominious for their husbands to assist them. The women of the noble families may have 384 slaves to relieve them ; but should they be without thera, they must undergo the same labours as the rest. Yet the tribes at this extremity of America are not brutal to their women, like those by the Northern Ocean. The marriages are only to endure during pleasure. They who have children seldom forsake each other. The husband pre- lects his wife even if she is in the wrong ; and if he detects her in any criminal intercourse, all his anger falls upon the paramour, who is cruelly beaten, unless, after the modern fashion of England, he atones by paying for the injury which he has committed. Their jugglers will sometimes bid them send their wives into the woods, to prostitute themselves to the first person they meet This is plainly a device of these wretches to make amends for the celibacy to which they are restricted. The husbands readily obey, but there are women in* whom natural modesty overpowers superstition, who refuse obedience to their husbands on such an occasion, and set the wizard at defiance. Skins are worn by ail these tribes. All, except the Ser- ratios, Weave mantles of yarn, beautifully dyed with many colours, which, when wrapped round the body, reach from the shoulders to the calf of the leg : they have another of the same kind round the waist ; and besides these, a small three-cornered leathern apron, two corners are tied round the waist, the other is past between the legs, and fastened behind,. They tie up their hair behind, with the points upward, binding it many times above the head with a woollen band ; but they are fond of wearing hats when they can procure them from the Spaniards. They paint their face red or black, and wear necklaces and bracelets of sky-blue beads. On horseback they use a peculiar sort of frock, which has a siit in the middle, through which they put their heads, and hang down to the knees, or sometimes to the feet. The stockings or ^;oots which both sexes use are of the rudest kind : they con- 385 sist merely of the skin of a horse's thigh and leg, flayed off whole, dried, then softened with grease, and suppled by wringing. The women wear straw hats, in shape like that of of the Chinese. Their defensive armour consists of a helmet made of double bull's-hide, and shaped like a broad-brimmed hat ; a tunic or shirt, with short sleeves, of anta's skin, three or four fold ; this is very heavy, but effectually resists the arrow and spear, and is said to be musket proof, They use also on foot a large square unwieldy shield of bull's-hide. The Tehuel- hets and Huilliches sometimes poison their arrows: their spears are of cane, four or five yards long, and pointed with iron. When they can get them from the Spaniards they use swords. The bowl and double bowl, and thong, they use both in battle and in hunting. The single one is about a pound weight : they aim it at the enemy's head, to knock out his brains ; with the double one they can fasten a man to his I*orse, and effectually entangle man or beast, or both.— E. E. TUB END. VOL. 1 Co NEW WORKS Printed for Loxgm.x, Bvmr, REES> mi 0rme> PATERNOSTER ROW. 1 • ILLUSTRATIONS of the SCENERY of KILLARNFY fte snrronndmg Country, and , considerable^ Part of , h^' In t " ST* »' IreI««"- BJ W* Weld, Esq M R I 7 Price s'o r'h 0Unifr0US Pia,« *g^i£i«i*-i £ldl ee,-a;LZemPl0y Wi'h effeC'' « W 'laVe M?a™gfenArM' ? 2 Vols' 8v°- ilIustrated »ith a "^ Aire, a il Bird's ^^ ^ ^^ fdvourite Wel^ desert t^ff D° I,1esi,tation ln dec]a™g that these volumes Knd Jt rjfe f nked J"**? Jh« ^st performances of the North WaTef &"i? "" ,***? P? aC, "^ who shou,d « £r™Crit ' makmg lhem his companion^- WEST?^?ING| £rm,gh WALES> HOLLAND, and of m^jT8 fOUad S° man-y Jive1^ and PIeas^ exhibitions or manners, so many amusing and interesting anecdotes and better "h,' i exPressed m a ga? and familiar style) Shi I , tke ,PU,p0Se 'than Senfeiices !ab»^d with r ut; as ?h !,rf' ,hat ™ Ca""0t bui ™cl it to our JntTita, y musing and interesting performance/— tert^N/NGiS|Sf ENGLAND' descriptive of the Coun- Vo fn p ' a°d Cbarfctt* of the Coi,nt,> B^ Mr. Pratt. JPrirV , • 2°* i°S' 6d- eacb' in I5oards» a»d Vol. III. ^^e?;"8- Tlie Second and Tilild Volumes ™y « The author continues to merit the character he has lon« and aeserveoly maintained, of a sprightly and agreeable" writer; of an intelligent, and often a sagacious observer of ■uinau lite and ma&ners/ — Brit. Grit. Nevs Works printed for LdxauAN, IlunsT, -Sees, and OrmS. 5. NOTES ON TEE WEST INDIES, written during the Expedition under the Command of the late General Sir Ralph. Abercrombie. By George Pinkard, M. D. In 3 vols. 8vo. Price ll. 10s. in Boards. M This work is aa extremely valuable addition to our in- formation upon colonial aftairs. It abounds in facts the re- suit of actual observation." — Edinh. Rw. 6. TRAVELS in SOUTH AMERICA during the year 1 801, 1802, 1803, and 1804; containing a Description of the Cap- tain Generalship of Caraccas, and an Account of the Dis- covery, Conquest, Topography, Legislature, Commerce, J? i- nance, and Natural Productions of the Country ; with a View of the Manners and Customs of the Spaniards and the Native Indians. By F. Depons, late Agent to the French Government at Caraccas. . . . 7. A DESCRIPTION of CEYLON, containing an Account of the Country, Inhabitants, and natural Productions : with Narratives of a Tour round the Island in 1800, the Campaign in Candy in 1803, and a Journey to Ramisseram in 1804. By the Rev. James Cordiner, A. M. late Chaplain to the Gar- rison of Columbo. In two vols. 4to. illustrated by twenty-five Engravings from original Drawings. Price 31. 13s. fjd. in Boards. „ ,. , , , " Considered as volumes of travels, Mr. Cordiner s labours must enjoy a respectable rank among useful and agreeable publications. To those who either wish to go to India, or have friends there, this ' Description of Ceylon' will be pecu- lia8yAa!5epOGRAp1i"rciL'DICTION^Y of ENGLAND; exhibiting the various Subdivisions of each County into Hun- dreds, Lathes, Wapentakes, &c. The Valuations m tne King's Books; the Patrons of the Ecclesiastical Benefices; and the Tutelary Saint of each Church.— The Distance and Bearing of every Parish, or Hamlet, from the nearest Post- Office Town.— Markets.— Fairs.— Corporations— Free Schools. —The Situation and Description of Monasteries, and other re- ligious Houses.— Members of Parliament.— Assizes and Petty Sessions.— Collected from the most authentic Documents, and arranged in alphabetical Order. By Nicholas Carlisle, Fellow and Secretary of the Society of Antiquaries of London, in two thick vols. 4to. Price 5l. 5s. in Boards. This work will be eminently useful.— I. To Magistrates in the removal of Paupers, &c— II. To Conveyancers, Solicitors, Buyers and Sellers of Estates and Property by Commission, Gentlemen desirous of purchasing, and to those who may have occasion to examine the Public Advertisements, &c— III. To all Persons coacerned in the Government, and in the - ! r Q07'S~7 m^T If 2?T' Partfc"l«'y the Post-Office Depart formation respeetui ZlZ, 7 , ,"'?* ,""lWK authemic I"- pertehung to the Establishment. ' * other °bJe^s ap- tiiutedbyj.u.uewick, 46, .Barbican-. — ■