s:

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
AT LOS ANGELES

THE

HISTORY OF CHILI

VOL. I.

THE

GEOGRAPHICAL,

NATURAL, AND CIVIL

HISTORY OF CHILL

TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL ITALIAN OT

THE ABBE DON J. IGNATIUS MOLINA.

TO HlllCn ARE ADDED,

NOTES

IROM THE SPANISH AND FRENCH VERSIONS,

AND

TWO APPENDIXES,

nV THE ENGLISH EDITOR;

THE FIRST, AX ACCOUNT OF THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHILOE, FR03f THE
DE3CRIPCI0N HISTOUIAL OF P. F. PEDRO GONZALEZ DE AGUEROS ;

THE SECOND, AN ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVE TRIBES WHO INHABIT THE

SOUTHERN EXTREMITY OF SOUTH AMERICA, EXTRACTED CHILILY

FROM FALKNERS DESCRIPTION OF PATAGONIA.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. L

PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, AND ORjMK,

PATERNOSTER-ROW.

1809.

frinteU hr j. U. U^:^^lL^.

■46; t*rb ejn.

■a

?

TRxVNSLATORS PREFACE.

*\«4 Important and interesting as has ever been
the History of the Spanish settlements in Ame-
rica^ particularly to the inhabitants of the
same continent, that importance and interest is at
r4 the present period i^reatly increased, by the oc-
currence of events of such magnitude, as wdll
most probably be attended with the total scver-
r ance of those colonies from Europe, and the
"^ establishment of a new empire in the west. Of
these settlements. Chili is in many respects one of
the most important. Blest with a soil fertile
beyond description, a climate mild and salubrious
in the highest degree, productive of every con-
venience and most of the luxuries of life, and
rich in the precious metals. Nature appears to
have been delighted in lavishing its bounties
upon this favoured portion of the globe. In its
minerals, its plants, and its animals, the natu-
ralist will find an interesting and copious field of
research ; and the character of its natives fur-
VOL. I. b

VI

nishes a subject no less curious and interesting to
the moralist. The proud and invincible Arau-
ca^.ian exhibits some characteristic traits altoge-
ther new in the aborigines of this continent, and
scarcely to be paralleled in any nation of the old.
The long and successful resistance of this brave
people to the arnjs of Spaii,;, even in the meridian
of its military glor J, is a wonderful instance of
what a nation can perform when animated by a
spirit of libertv, and determined upon freedom
or death. The Araucanians^ it is true, to their
high sense of independence and unyielding cou-
rage, had the good fortune of uniting a system of
tactics so excellent as even to excite the admira-
tion of their enemies, and to this in a great mea-
sure may be ascribed their successfully opposing,
with far inferior arms, a powerful and disci-
plined foe.

\>liciber the peculiar character of the Arau-
cani'ins proceed from the influence of climate
coiVili' ing wilh moral causes, or is wholly de-
rived from their institutions and free f'>rm of go-
vernment ; whetlier, wlV-} the Chilians in general,
they are of foreign orie^in, and a distinct race
from the other nati\cs of America, the remains,
as 'Ir autlior supposes, of a great and pov/erful
ii;copic, who had attained a high degree of civi-
jizaiion, and possessed a polished and copious
la!:guage; or whether their agricultural know-
kiige, military skill, and the cultivation of their
4

>n

idiom, are owing' merely to fortuitous circum-
stances, are points of curious inquiry, and such
as will aflbrd an ample field for conjecture.

The autlior of the present work, Don Juan
Ignatius Molina, was a native of Chili, distin-
guished for his literary acquirements, and parti-
cularly his knowledg:e of natural history, large
collections in which he had made during his re-
sidence in that country. On the dissolution of
the celebrated order of the Jesnits, of which he
was a member, he shared the general fate of that
community, in being expelled from the territories
of Spain, and was, at the same time, deprived
not only of his collections in natural history,, but
also of his manuscripts. The most important of
the latter, relative to Chili, he had, however,
the good fortune to regain by accident, some
lime after his residence in Bologna, in Italy,
whither he had gone on his arrival in Euiope.

Furnished with these materials, he applied
himself to writing the history of that country,
which was published at two different periods;
the first part, comprising the Natural History,
in the year 1787, and the second, containing the
Civil, for reasons mentioned in his Preface, not
D.ntil some years after. This w ork, which was
written in kalian, has obtained a very high re-
putation on the continent of Europe, where it
has been translated into the French, German,
and Spanish languages. The celebrated Abb6

b2

Till

Clavisrero^ in his History of Mexico, in referring
in a note to that of Chili, mentions it in the
most respectable terms, and calls the author his
learned friend.

In rendering' this work into English, reference
has been had both to the French and Spanish
versions, which contain some valuable additional
notes. Through the politeness of a gentleman of
his acquaintance, the translator has also been
furnislied with an anonymous compendium of
the History of Chili, printed in Bologna, in
1776, from which the supplementary notes to
this volume are taken.

In addition to what is said above, the English
Editor has to stale, that he has, from documents
in his pv)sse-sion, added a few occasional Notes,
which .are distinguished by the letters E. E.
He has also subjoined, from F .Ikner's Descrip-
tion of Patagonia, a further elucidation of the
language of the Auracanos; and two Appendixes,
the iirst containing an Account of the Archi-
pelago of Chiloe, from the Descripcion Histo-
rial o^ that Province, by P. F. Pedro Gonzalez
de Agucros, printed at Madrid, in 1791 ; and
the second, an Account of the Native Tribes who
inhabit ihe Southern Extremity of South Ame-
rica, extracted chiefly from Falkner's work.

PREFACE

TO THE

NATURAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

The attention of Europe is at this time more
than ever directed to America. We are desirous
of obtaining information of its climate^ its natu-
ral productions^ and its inhabitants ; in short,
every thing that is worthy of notice in that part
of the world is now a subject of interest to the
most enlightened nations.

Chili is acknowledged^ by all who have writ-
ten upon America^, to be one of its provinces
meriting the most attention. This country is
distinguishedj not so much by its extent^ as by
the mildness of its climate ; and it may be said
to enjoy all the advantages of the most fitvoured
countries without their inconveniences.

In my opinion, it may, with propriety, be
compared to Italy ; as this is called the garden
of Europe, that, with more justice, may be
stvled the garden of South America. The
climate of the two countries is nearly the same.

and they are situaied under nearly similar pa*
rallels of latitude. They likewise resemble each
other in the circumstance of their heiua: of much
greater extent in length tlian in breadth^, and
that they are both divided by a chain of monii-
tains. The Cordilleras or the Andes are to Chili,
what the Appennines are to Italy^ the source of
almost all the livers that water tlie country, and
diffuse over it fertility and abundance. This
chain of mountains has as sensible an influence
on the salubrity of the air of Chili, as the Apen-
nines have upon that of Italy ; and so firmly
are the iniiabitants convinced of this fact, that,
whenever they attempt to account for any change
in the state of the ainiosphere, they attribute it
to the eiiect of these mountains, which they con-
sider as powerful and infallible agents.

A country so remarkable, both for its natural
productions, and its political state, certainly
merits to be well known ; yet the accounts that
we have of it arc merely superficial, and little is
to be found, respecting its natural productions,
in writers v.pon natural history. Of the lan-
guage and the cuStoms of the inhabitants we
are equally ignorant, and scarcely any thing is
known of the ejicrtions which the Chilians have
made, even in our dav5, to defend their liberties.

A few well-informed travellers, who have
been in the coimtry, liave published some
valuable accounts, but too conscise to furnish a

XI

competent idea of it. Father Louis Feuille, a
French Minim friar, l.as given a scientific de-
scription of the phints that he found upon the
coast, to wiiicli he has added an account of se-
veral animals that he noticed th.ere. This is a
work of great merit ; the descriptions are pre-
cise, and perfectly correct; but as it was pub-
lished bj the order and at the expense of the
king, the copies of it have become very scarce^
and are in the possession of but few.

A number of Spanish authors have treated of
this country. The last century produced several,
not to mention those of the present ; but few of
their writings, however, have been published,
for reasons whiih I shall hereafter assign. Of
the latter, the first in point of merit are those of
Don Pedro de Figueroa, and the Abbes Mi-
chael de Olivarez and Philip »/idaurre. The
t^^^ former treat of the political histoiy of the
country, from the arrival of the Spaniards to the
present time. Tiiat of the Abbe Olivarez merits
particular attention, from the great number of
interesting facts relative to the long wars be-
tween the Spaniards and Araucanians, which he
has collected witli no less judgment than indus-
try. The work of the Abbe Vidaurre is prin-
cipally employed upon the natural productions
and customs of Chili, and displays much intelli-
irencc and acuteness of research.

Besides the histories, or, more properly speak-
b 4

xu

ing% the accounts that have been written of this
country, there are four poems that have for their
subject the Araucanian wars ; also an anonymous
abridgement in Italian of the Geographical and
Natural History of Chili, published in 1776,
which, in some respects, particularly with re-
g-ard to geography and natural history, fur-
nishes a more complete account of Chili
than we have had. But as that compen-
dium is much too concise, I presume I shall
render an important service to those who feel
an interest in whqjt respects America, by pre-
senting them with this essay, in which I have
dwelt more fully and precisely upon the natural
productions of Chili, as well as upon the most
conspicuous events that have occurred in that
country.

At an early period of life, I began to turn my
attention both to the natural and political history
of Chili, with the view of publishing, at some
future time, the result of my inquiries. Some
untoward circumstances, however, interrupted
my progress, and I had even relinquished the
hope of having it in my power to carry my plan
into etrect, when a fortunate accident put me
into possession of the requisite materials, and
enabled me to offer the pre ent work to the pub-
lic ; to wliich, in a short time, I proposed adding
another essay or compendium of the civil and
political history of the Same country.

Xill

The method that I have adopted in arranging
this work, has been to divide it into four chap-
ters: The tlrst, after a succinct geographical
account of Chili, which may serve as an intro-
duction, treats of the seasons, winds, meteors,
volcanoes, earthquakes, and state of the climate.
The other three I have devoted to a description
of natural objects, proceeding from the simplest
to the most complex, that is, from the mineral to
the vegetable and animal kingdoms ; and, in the
last, have added some conjectures cf my own re-
specting the inhabitants of Chili and the Patago-
nians, or pretended giants, whom I consider as
the mountaineers of that country.

I have referred, as far as v, as in my power, the
various objects noticed to the genera of Linnjeus,
but in some instances where I have not been able
to reduce them to those that are known, I have
invented new, in conformity to his system. That
author's mode of classification I have not, how-
ever, pursued, as it appeared to me incompatible
with the plan of my work. Though I have fol-
lowed the system of that celebrated Swedish na-
turalist, it is not from a conviction of iti; supe-
riority to that of any other, but because it has
been of late so generally adopted ; for, great ag
is the respect which I fc^d for that learned writer,
I cannat alwavs approve of liii nomenclature,
and should have preferred pursuing the systeni
of Wallerius and Eomaro in iiiineralogy, thai of
2

XIV

Tournefort in botany^ and of Brisson in zoology;,
as I thi.k them to be ir.ore simple and better
known to the world ir. oeneral.

In describing' objects of natural historV;, t
have avoided the use of technical terms, as being;
difficult to be understood by those not conver-
sant with that study; but for the gratification of
such as are familiar with that science^ I have
given, at the bottom of the page, the Linnaan
characters in Lafin, both of the known species,
and of ihohc that are new, which I have dis-
covered*. My descriptions wilL for the most
part^ be found to be short, and such as merely
furnish the essential character of the species.
The common characteristics of the genus I have
pnsscd over intentionally, and it will be found
that the same brevity prevails throughout the
work, which is written in a plain and unaixected
manner, without bewildering myself with vague
conjectures and hazardous hypotheses, which
would have been deviating altogether from the
limits that I hud prescribed to myself.

I have frequently quoted those authors who
have written uj.'on Chili, and have judged this
precaution tlie more necessary, as, in treating of
a country so remote and so little knowu, 1 could

* Jl has Icen thought adcisaUe in tkis version to wale some
variahon in this reipcct, and, conjhrmaily therctv, the techni-
cal descriptions will le found, at the end of the volume^ ar-
Tan<^cd uiidar their respective headi\,,„.\incx. Trans.

XV

liot exj3ect f 0 be believed on my own unsupported
asscrlicn ; but the passages that I have selected
wille\i;!ce tliat I have not exagg;eraled in my
accounts of the sahibrity of the climate, and the
exceUence of the soi!^ and that I might have
been justified in saying still more.

With respect to this wcrk^ it is no more than
a compendium, or an abridged history of many
of the natural productions of Chili. The reflect-
iiig reader will not look in it for a complete na-
tural history of that country ; such a v/ork would
have required much greater means than I possess,
and such assistance as I have not been able to
procure.

Those acquainted with M. de Pauw's philoso-
phical inquiries respecting the Americans, will.
perhaps be surprised to find in my work some
remarks Mhich do not correspond with what
that author has said respecting America in gene-
ral. But whatever I have asserted respecting
Chili is founded upon personal experience and
attentive observation duriris: a residence of manv
years in that country ; and, in support of what 1
have advanced, I have cited the authority of se-
veral respectable authors, who were eye-v/it-
nesses, and not hear-say relatcrs, of what they
have written, iVI. de Pauw, on the contrary,
not only rscver saw the country tliat lie lias under-
iriken to characterize, but even appears not to
have been solicitous to consult those autliors who

XVI

hate vritten upon it ; for, although he frequently
mentions Frazier and Ulloa^ he cites their opi-
nions only as far as they tend to confirm his
theory. Both those authors speak of ChiU as
very fertile^ but M. de Pauw has not thought
proper to insert those passages,, but only observes,
in general terms, that wheat cannot be raised ex-
cept in some of the North American provinces.

Led away by inferences drawn from an ideal
system of his own invention, he has carried his
visionary notions so far that his work partakes
more of the nature of a romance than a philoso-
phical disquisition. It is sufficient for his pur-
pose to find, in the vast extent of America, some
small district or unimportant island labouring
under the disadvantages of an unfavourable cli-
mate or unproductive soil, to attribute these cir-
cumstances as general to all the provinces of that
country. A wretched tribe of the most obscure
savages serves as his model of character for all
the Americans. Such is the logic of M, de
Pauw : It would be an endless task Avere I to en-
deavour to confute the numerous erroneous opi-
nions that he has advanced respecting America ;
upon that subject he has deduced his conclusions
from the most unfounded premises, and employed
a mode of reasoning that might, with equal pro-
priety, be applied to the prejudice of any other
portion of the globe ; a proceeding that can
be justified neither by reason nor philosophy. In

xvu

shortj Dc Pauw has made use of as much free-
dom with regard to America as if he had been
writing upon the moon and its inhabitants. But
to appreciate properly the observations of this
author, I shall refer the reader to the opinions of
many learned men who have visited that country,
and have fully refuted his assertions. Among
those who merit particular attention on this sub-
ject, is Count Juan Reynaldes Carli, so well
known by his various literary productions, parti-
cularly his American Letters*, in which, with
much critical and philosophical investigation, he
has comprised whatever may serve to convey a
clear and correct idea of America,

N. B. The reader is informed that the mile
made use of in this work is the geographical
mile of sixty to a degree, the foot the French
foot, and the pound that of Italy, of twelve
ounces.

• Those literati who are desirous of becoming perfectly ac-
quainted with America, will do well to consult this work,
which consists of three voIumes....5/>. Tratis.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.

Page

Situtition, Climate, and Natural Phenomena - - - I

SECTION 1.— Limits - . - - 2

2. — Name - . - - 3

3. — Natural Divisions - - 4

4. — Political Divisions - - - - S

5.— Ol Rain, &c. - - - U

6. — Winds - - - - 1.9

7.— Meteors - - - - 23

8. — V^dcanoes _ - - - '24

y. — Earlhtjuakos - - - 25

10. — SalnLriry of Climate - - 29

CHAP. II.

Wat'^rs Emilis, Stones i^^dts. Bitumens,. and Metals - 36

SFXTIUN 1.— Uivers - - - - ib.

2.— Lukes - - . - 39

3. — Mineral Walors - - - it).

4. — S.il - - . - - 43

5. — Physical Orgatiization - - 1-8

6'.— Earths - - - - 53

7. — Stones - - - - 59

8. —Salts - ... Of)

XX CONTENTS.

Page

SECTION 9.— Bitumens - - -69

10. — Psrites - - - - 70

II. — 'Semi-Metals - - - 71

12.— Metals - - - - 72

13. — Concretions - - -97

CHAP III.

Herbs, Shrubs, and Trees - - - 100

SECTION 1.— Herbs - - - 101

2. — Alimentary Herbs or Plants - 105

3. — Herbs used in Dying - - 115

4.— Medicinal Plants - - 120

5. — Grasses - - - 125

6.— Climbing Plants - - 127

7.— Shrubs - - - 129

8.— Trees - - - 135

CHAP. IV.

Worms, Inserts, Reptiles, Fishes, Birds, and Quadrupeds ]6l
SLCnON 1.— Molhiscas - - ib.

2. — Crust aceous Fishes and Insects - iCo
3. — Reptiles - - - I78

4. — ri,hes - - - - 181

5.— Birds - - - - 191

6.-:-Quadrupeds - - . 222

A Methodical Table of the various species of Natural

Productions described in this Work - - 281

A Supplement to the Tabl.' of the Vegetable Kingdom - 9.Q3

Supplementary Notes illustrative of the History of Chili 2.95

THE

NATURAL HISTORY

OF

CHILI

CHAPTER I.

Situation, Climate, and Natural Phenomena.

v>'IIILI^ a country of South America, is situ-
ated upon the South Sea or Pacific Ocean,
between the 24th and 45th degrees of south lati-
tude, and the 804th and 308tli degrees of lon-
gitude from the meridian of Fcrro.

Its length is estimated at 1260 geographical
miles, but it varies in breadtli as the great range
of mountainSj called the Cordilleras or the An-
des, approach or recede from tiie sea ; or, to speak
with more precision, a^ the sea approaches or
retires from those mountains. Between the 24th
and 32d degrees of latitude, tin; distance of the
sea from the mountains is about 210 miles ; from
the 32d to the 37 th it is but i;;:0 : and in the
broadest part of Chili, near the Archipelago of

Chiloe. it is little less than 300 miles. In calcu-
lating from these various extents, the surface of
Chili may be estimated at 378,000 square miles.

Sect. I. Limits. — Chili is bounded upon the
TTest by the Pacific Ocean, on the north by Peru^
on the east by Tucuman, Cujo, and Patagoniaj
and oji the south by the land of Magellan. Jt
is separated from all these countries by the Cor-
dilleras, which form an insurmountable barrier
on the land side, while the sea renders it secure
upon that quarter. The few roads which lead
to Chili from the neighbouring provinces arc
impassable, except in summer, and arc so narrow
and dangerous that a man on horseback can w ith
difficulty pass them.*

* There are abotit cii^l!t or nine roads nliicli cross the
Cordilleras of Chili, ot" which that loadiug from the province
of Aconcagua to Cujo is the most travelled. This road,
which carmot be passed in less than ei^ht days, is bordered oh
one sid.' I<v the deep beds nhieh the Chile and the INIendo^a,
U\o to•!^^i•ln•a!)le rivers, have worn there; on the other side,
bv Aery loftv and per|'ei;dicular mountains. It is so narrow
-and inraminodious, that, in many places, Iravellers are obliged
to quit their nudes, the only animal that can be employed,
and to proceed on foot ; nor does ihert a year pass when
vome loaded mules are not prcci|)it;iled iVom these roads into
the u\ers. These precipices, iiowever, do not follow the
whole course of the road; for occasionally it passes over very
at^reeabli and ple^s<«it plains, where travellers halt to refiesii
themselves. In these places the Incas, when they contpiered
Cusco and the northern provJi;ces of Chili, caused some btonc

4

The extent ^\llich modern s^eograplieis assign
to Chili is much greater than that which the in-
habitants allow it; the former usually compre-
hend w ithin it, Cujo, Patagonia, and the land
of Magellan. But these countries are not only
separated from it by natural limits, but their cli-
mate and productions differ ; their inhabitants
have countenances totally mdike the Chilians,
and their language and customs have uo resem-
blance.*

Sect. II. Name. — The writers upon America
liave given various derivations of the name of
Chili, which are either ^vholly false, or founded
on absurd conjectures. It is certain, however,
that it was known by its present name long before
the arrival of the Spaniards. The inhabitants
derive the name from certaiii birds of the tlirush
kind, that are very common in the countrvj and

houses to be constructed for llie accomiDodutioii of their
otticers: one of which has been ruined, hut the others ^till
nniaiu entire. Tlie Spaniards have built soiue more, lur llic
greater convenience of travellers,

Al'houah llie principal mountain of the Cordilleras is the
riiitusal tirniiiiatiou of Cliili to the t r.^t, I conipiehend uitln'u
its confines not only tlie western vaHevi; of that mountain, as
nect-,sar;lv atlaelu'd lo it, but abo t!ie ea-rein ; as, thoiiijh not
comprised within its natural limits, having been occupied by
t^hiij.ni colonies Irotu time irnmemoiiul.

b4

4

Avhose note has some resemblance lu the word
Chili, And it is not improbable^ that the lirst
tribes^ who settled there^, considered this note as
a good omen^ and named the country accord-
ingly.*

Sect. III. .Xativral Dizisions. — Chili natural-
ly divides itself into three parts,, the first com-
prehending the islands ; the second. Chili pro-
perly called ; and the third, the Andes, or the
country occupied by that range of mountains.
The islands that belong to Chili are : the three
Coquinibanes, Mugillon, Totoral, and Pajaro.
These islands are desert ; and are said to be six
or eight miles in circumference.

The two islands of Juan Fernandez ; one of
f.hese known by the name of Isola di Terra (the
shore-island) from its being the nearest to the
continent, is about 42 miles in circumference.
Lord Anson, who remained there some time,
describes it as a terrestial paradise ; it is at pre-

* Tiie colonists who went from llie southern part of Chili
to settle the Archipelago of Chiloe, an euliiiratiol) thut took
place sonic ages prior to the arrival of the Spaniards, called
those islands Chil-bue, which signifies a district or j)rovince of
Chili, iniluenced, undoubtedly, by the desire of preserving
the memory of their origuial country ; and all the Chilians,
those wl'.o liave continued free as well as the subjugated, call
their country Chili-niapu, that is, the land of Chili, and it:-
language Chrh-dugu, the language of Chili.

sriit inhabited by the Spaniards, The oilier,
which bears the luniic of Masafucra, (flic wore
distant) U smaller, and althona;h its appearance
IS as bea'flifiil and inviting* as that of the Isola di
Terra, it has remained till the present time un-
cultivated and uninhabited.

The island of Carama. This is rather a rock
than an island capable of cultivation. Quirin-
quina, at the entrance of the harbour of Con-
ception, and Taica or Santa Maria, are two
islands of about four miles in J^gth ; and are
the property of two wealthy inhabitants of Con-
ception.

Mocha. This island, which is more than 60
miles in circumference, is handsome and fertile.
It was in the last century inhabited by the Spa-
niards, but is at present deserted.

The Archipelago of Chiloe, with that of the
Chones, which is dependant upon it, compre-
hends eighty-two islands that are inhabited by
some Spaniards and Indians. The largest of
these islands, which has given its name to the
Archipelago, is Chiloe ; it is about 150 miles in
length ; the capital of it is Castro.

All these islands arc near the coast, except
those of Juan Fernandez, the first of which is
-330, and the second 420 miles distant.*

* In the same sea, but vei^ remote, are situated tlie little
islands of St, Ami^i-osio, St. Felix, and that of Pasqua, (or

b3

Chili properly called, or that part \v hicli is
situated between the Andes and the sea, is at
least 120 miles in breadth : It is coninionly di-
vided into two equal parts, that is, the maritime
country, and the midland country ; the maritime
country is intersected by three chains of moun-
tains, running parallel to the Andes, between
which are numerous vallevs watered bv d(^li2ht-

Easter Island) irmch celebrated for the great number of sta-
tues nliicli tlie natives have erected in various parts of it,
either as ornaments, or, what is more probable, as tutelary
divinities. The two first, which are desert, are distant 20O
.leagues from the coast of Chili, and are situated in 26 deg.
27 ruin, south latitude; but that of l'asf{ua, wl'.ich is probably
the same with Davis's land, and is in 2? deg. and 5 miu. south
latitude, and about the 26"8lh deg. of longitude, is (iO© leagues
distant from that coast. This inland is but a little more than
five leagues in extent, and its inhal)itants, who do not exceed
800, are whiter than most of the Indians, and permit their
beards to grow, 'the statues that are nu!t with ihroughout
the island are very nunu'iouSj and of various sizes ; some of
tlit'in heiiig 27 feet in height, ;nid others not exceeding that
of a nsan. 'I'o the sight and tourli ihev apjjear liki- stone ;
bat as they are all of a singh-: jiiece, and there are no (juanies
on tlie isl;;nd c;!])able of iurnishii:g stones of that size, it is pro-
bable that ihey are formetl of some kind of phiister or cement
that, when <iry, iissumes tlie consistency and colour of stone.
Tfie Dutch admiral, rio;rgewein, who was the tirst that visited
this ishmd, in the year 17 22, ^;ty«, that these statues were
wrouL'lit witli nnicii skill. Don I'liilip (jonsalez, connnander
of (i^e s!):j) (;f war llosiilia, who was there in the year 17/0,
and C.iptaiii (^ook, in 'danh, 177 1, boL\!i agree with Ilogge-
wviii as respects the niuiJicr ai:(! size of these statues.

fill rivers. The midland country is almost fliit;
a few insolated hills only are to be seen, that
diversify and render the appearance of it more
pleasing;.

The Andes, which are considered as the lof-
tiest mountains in the world, cross the whole
continent of America, in a direction from south
to north ; for I consider the mountains in North
America, as only a continuation of the Cordil-
leras. The part that appertains to Chili may be
120 miles in breadth ; it consists of a great num-
ber of mountains, all of them of a prodigious
height, which appear to be chained to each other;
and where nature displays all the beauties and
all the horrors of the most picturesque situations.
Aliliougli it abound.^ with frightful precipices,
m:iiiy ap;recable valk\s and fertile pastures are
to be found tlierc ; and the rivers that derive
their sources from the mouiitains,* often cx-

* The higliest iiiountii.ins of tlie Conliileias of Cliiii are
llic INIantios, in 28 deg. 45 miii. the Tupuiisato, in 33. '2-i. the
Dtiscubc.zado, in 33 deg. the BkinqniUo, in 3,'). 4. the Loti'j;avi,
ill 3') 30. the Chilian, in 36". and the Corcubado, in 43. I had
no oppoitiinity, while in the co.u;trv, to ineuNure thi' hciglit
ot' these mountains, wiiich naturalists assert are more than
•^0,1)00 t'et t above the level of the L-ea. Buii'on asserts, th.'.t
the iiigiiest nioiuilains of the earth are to be iDum] under llu-
eijuator; but havin<; set n and particnhniv nolieed biith ll'.i.-e
of l*e:n -.wul of (^hili, I doubt nuici! t'.ie ciurfcln;'-- of th'S
a\:ou;, uud am more inclini'd to adopt the ojiiu'on o{ },l. Vh r-
v!V'.!d vvhoj in l'i>i Metnoii.s u:!on tlie Struetur.' oi the Eur!!),

I? 4

hibit the most pleasing as well as the most terri-
fying- features. That portion of the Cordilleras
which is situated between the 24th and 33d
degrees of latitude^ is wholly desert ; but the
remainder:, as far as the 45th degree^, is inha-
bitea by some coionies of Chilians^, who are cal-
led ChiquillaneS;, PehuencheS:, PuelcheS;, and
HuiliicheS:, but are more generally known by the
name of Patagonians.

Sect. IV. Political Divisions. — The political
divisions of Chili consist of the part occupied
by the Spaniards, and that which is inhabited by
the Indians. The Spanish part is situated be-
tween the 24th and o7tli degrees of south latitude^,
and is 'divided into thirteen provinces, to wit :
CopiapO:, Coquimbo, Quillota, Aconcagua,
Melipilla, and St. Jago, (which contains the
capital city of the country of the same name^
Rancagua, Calchagua, Maule, Ytata, Chilian,
Puchacay, and Huilquilemu.* The division of

says, " It is not true that the highest mountains are found
under the equator, since the Andes increase in height in pro-
portion as they recede from it.'' The Cordilleras are lower at
Copiapo, notwithstanding it is nearer the tropic, than in the
other parts of Chili.

* I have thought proper in this place to give a short account
of the situation and extent of all these provinces, with their
capitals, ports, and principal rivers. I should also have given

these provinces is very irregular^ and imperfcctlj
designated : there are some of them which ex-

a statement of tlieir j)opulation, but was not able to obtain
an estimate wbich sati^tietl mc.

Copiapo — extending from the Andes to the sea, is 100
leagues in length, and 70 in breadth. Its capital — Copiapo,
situate in 26" deg. 50 min. south latitude. Ports — Copiapo
and Guasco. Rivers — the Salad o, Copiapo, Totoral, Que.
brada, Guasco, and Cliollay.

Coquimbo — extending from the Andes to the sea ; in kngth
45 leagues; in breadth 70. Its capital — Coquimbo, in 2.9
deg. 54 niin. Ports — Coquimbo and Tongoy. Rivers — Co-
quimbo, Toiigoy, Limari, and Chuapa.

Quillota — situated on the sea-coast, in length 25 leagues,
in breadth 21. Its capital — Quillota, in 32 deg. 56 nua.
Ports — Papudo, lierradura, Quint6ro, and Val})arai3o, in 33
deg. 2 min. Rivers — Longotoma, Ligua, Chile, and L.niache.

Aconcagua — in the vicinity of the Andes ; 25 leagues in
length, and of equal width. Its capital — Aconi gua, in 32
deg. 4S min. River* — Longotoma, Ligua, and (. e.

Melipilla — on the sea-coast ; 1 1 leagues in lengt breadth
23. Its capital — Melipilla, in 33 deg. 32 min. .'u; — St.
Antonio. Rivers — Maypo, Maypoche, and Poaiigue.

Santiago — near the Andes ; 11 leagues in length, in b'<^;Hlth
520. Its capital — Santiago, in 33 (leg. 31 min. Riveit — Co-
lina, Larapa, IMapoche, and Maypo.

Rancagua — irom the Andes lo the sea ; in length 13 league?,

in broadili 40. Its capita! — Rancagua, in 34 dog. Rivcu

Maypo, Codegua, Ciiocalan, and Cachapoal.

Colchagua — from the Andes to the sea; 15 leagues in
length, and 43 in breadth. Its capital — St. Fen Tndo, in
34 deg. 18 rain. Ports — Topocalma and Navidad. Rivera —
Rio-Clariilo, Tingiririca, Cliimbarongo, Nilahue, and Teno.

Maule— from the Andes to the sea ; 44 leagues long and

10

tend from the sea <o the Aides ; others occupy
but the half of that space, and are situated near
the moui tains or upon the coast. Their extent
is also very various, some of them being six or
seven times larger than others. These provinces
were formerly innabited by the Copiapins_, Co-
quimbranes^ Quiiloianesj Mapochinins, Pro-
maucians^ Cures, Cauques, and Penquons. At
present there exist but few remains of any of these
nations.

The Indian country is situated between the
river Bio-bio and the Archipelago of Chiloe, or
the 36th and 41st degrees of latitude. It is in-
habited by three different nations : the Ar;iuca-

48 broad. Its capital — Talca, in 34 deg. 33 min. Port —
Astillero. Rivers — Mataquito, Rioclaro, Lircay, INIauIe, Pu-
tagaii, Achiliucnu, Ligr.ay, Longavi, Loncomilhi, and Purapel.

Itata — on the sea-coast ; 1 1 leagues in length and 2 i in
breadth. Its capital — Couleniu, in 36 dog. 2 niiu. Icivers —
Lon(|uen and Itata.

Ciiillaii — near the Andes; in length 12 leagues, in breadth
25. Its capital — Chilian, in 3(j deg. Rivers — Catillo, Cato,
Iv'uble, and Chilian).

Pi'.chacay — on the sea-coast ; 12 leagues long and 2.") broad.
Its capital — Gualqai, in 36 deg. 12 min. Rivers— Lirquen^
Andalien, and Bio-bio.

Hiiilqiiilenui — near the Andes; 12 leagues long aiid 25
broad. Its capital — Huilquilenui, in 30' deg, 42 uiiu. Ri\eri
— I'ata, Claro, and Laxa.

The Spaniards likewise possess (he port and town of Valdi-
via with its territory, situated upon the south shore of the river
of the same name, in 30 deg. 5o min. .south lalitiide.

11

nianSj the Cunclics, and the Huilliches. The
Axaucaniaus do not, as M. de Pauw pretends, in-
habit the barren rocks of Chili, but, on the con-
trary, the finest plains in the whole country, si-
tuated between the rivers Bio-bio and Yaldivia,
Araucania lies upon the sea-coast, and is calcu-
lated to be 18G miles in length; it is generally
considered as the most pleasant and fertile part of
Chili ; its breadth, from the sea to the foot of
the Andes, was formerly estimated at 300 miles,
but the Puelches, a nation inhabiting the western
part of the mountains, having joined the Arau-
canians in the last century, it cannot at present
be less than 4^0 miles in breadth, and the whole
of their territory is calculated to contain 78,120
square luiies..

Tb^ Araucanians have divided their country
into fouF principalities, or uthanmapu, to which
they have given the following names : Lavquen-
mapu, or the maritime country; Lelvunmapu,
or the flat country ; Inapiremapu, or the country
at the foot of the Andes ; and Piremapu, or the
country of the Andes. Each principality is di-
vided into five provinces, or ailla-ixliuc, and each
province into nine commanderies, cxrcl.ue. The
maritime principal ity contains live provinces ;
Arauco, Tucapcl, llicura, Boroa, and Nagtolten.
The principality of the pliin, Ei.tol, Puren, Re-
pocura, Z\Iaquchue, and Mariquina, The prin-
cipality at the foot of the Andes, Marvcn, Cul-

huC;, Cliacaico^ Quecheregua, and Guanahue.
The principality of the Andes comprehends all
the valleys situated between the limits heretofore
mentioned. The country of the Cunches extends
along the coast, between the Valdivia and the
Archipelago of Chiloe. Cunches is derived
from the word cunco, which signifies a bunch of
grapes^ and is allusive to the great fecundity of
that nation. The Huilliches occupy all the
plains to the east of the Cunches, from whom
they are separated partly by an imaginary line,
and partly by that chain of the Andes which ex-
tends from the Valdivia to the extremity of
Chili. They are called Huilliches^ which sig-
nifies southern racw, from their country being
the farthest towards the south. Both the Cun-
ches and the Huilliches arc warlike nations, and
allies of the Araucanians^ to whom they have
rendered important services in their wars with
the Spaniards.

Chili is one of the best countries in America.
The beauty of its sky, the constant mildness of
its climate, and its abundant fertility, render it,
as a place of residence, extremely agreeable ;
and with respect to its natural productions, it
may be said, without exaggeration, not to be in-
ferior to any portion of the globe. The seasons
succeed each other regularly, and are sufficiently
marked, although the transition from cold to
heat is very moderate. The spring in Chili com-

u

'.iieiices, us iu all the countri(-\s of the southern
hemisphere, the 22d Septeriil)cr, the summer in
December, tlie autumn iu March, and the ^vintcr
in June.^

* Tliat part of CJiili which may properly be deemed it
Spanish province, is a narrow district, extending along the coast
troni the desert of Atacaaias to the island ol" Chilo*';, above
900 miles. Its climate is the most delicious of" the New
World, and is hardly equalled by that of any region on the
face of the earth. Though bordering on the torrid zone, it
never feels the extremity of heat, being screened on the east
by the Andes, and refreshed from the west by cooling sea-
breezes. The temperature of the air is so raild and equable,
that the Spaniards give it the preference to that of the south-
ern provinces in their native country. The fertility of the soil
corresponds wilh the beuignity of the climate, and is wonder-
fully acconmiodated to European productions. The most valu-
able of these, corn, wine, and oil, abound in Chili, as if they
had been native to the country. All the fruits imported from
Europe attain to full maturity there. The animals of our
hemisphere not only multiply, but improve in this delightful
region. The horned cattle are of larger size than those of
Spain. Its breed of horses surpasses, both in be;iuty and iu
spirit, the famous Andalusian race, from which lliey sprang.
Nor has natuie exhausted her bounty on the surface of the
earth ; she has stored its bowels with riches. Valuable mines
of gold, of silver, of copper, and of lead, have been dis-
covered in various parts of it. A couatry distinguished by
so many blessings, we may be apt to conclude, would early
become a favourite station of the Spaniards, and must have
been cultivated with peculiar predilection and care. luoteud
of this, a great part of it remains luioccupied. In all thi.^
extent of country, there ate not above eighty thousund whlU:

14

Sect. V. Of Rain, &,%'. — From the begin-
ning- of spring until autumn^ there is throughout
Chili a constant succession of fine weather^ par-
ticularly between the 24th and ,"56th degrees of
latitude; but in the islands^ which for the most
part are covered with wood^ the rains are ver^
frequent even in summer. The rainy season on
the continent usually commences in Aprils and
continues until the last of August. In the
northern proviiaces of Coquimbo and Copiapo it
very rarely rains ; in the central ones it usually
rains three or four days in succession^ and the
pleasant weather continues fifteen or twenty days.
In the southern the rains are much more fre-
quentj and often continue for nine or ten days
without cessation. These rains are never ac-
compani'ied with storms or hail ; and thunder is
scarcely known in the country^ particularly in
places at a distance from the Andes^ where^ even
in summer^ it is seldom ever heard.* Among
those mountains, and near the sea, storms occa-
sionally oirisc^ which, according to the direction

inhabitaHts, •.uid about three times that number of nejroe?
and people ot a mixed race. Tiie most fertile soil in America
lies uncultivated, and some of its most promising niiiits remain
uiiwronght. — MoLerlsons Ilislory ij' America, vol. iv, cliap. 7.

*" I>iglitiiii3g is wholly unknown in the province of Chili,
notwilhstandiiig thunder is occasionally heard at a greut dis'
tance over the hwiit^," -—American Caxatieer,

15

of the wind, pass over, and take their course to
the Dortli or soutli.

Ill the maritiiDO provinces snow is never seen.
In those nearer the Andes it falls about once in
five years ; sometimes not so often, and tlie quan-
tity is verv trifling; it usually Uiclts while failing,
and it is very uncommon to have it remain on the
ground for a day.

In the Andes, on the contrary, it falls in such
quantities from April to November, that it not
only lies there constantly during that time, but
even renders them wholly impassable during the
greater part of the year.* The highest summits
of these mountains, which are constantly covered
with snow, arc dibtinguishable at a great dis-

* Those who a eiifiire to ])as3 the Amies in the depth of
winter, when overtaken by snovv-itonns are frequently frozen,
as hai)j>ene(I to the Spaniards under the command of Diego de
Alniagro, in llie year 1,535. Tiiis has led some authors to as-
sert confidcutly, without attending to the difference of places,
that such is tiie severity of the winter in Chili, that men fre-
quently perish with cold ; yet it has been repeatedly proved,
that in tiiose parts not comprised within the Andes, the
weatlier is so mild, that it is very unusual for the mercury in
rwaumur's lhernion)cter to sink to the freezing point, and
none of th'j ri-.crs or streams are ever fro/en. Abbe Gauri
says, in hi-, I'reatise ui)on Natural Philosophy, that the cold is
so extreme in tiie plains of Chili, that the iiihabitants are com-
ptHed to l' r-'ske their houses, and, like the uietch.ed inhabil-
•uits ot' i! • ;,(^,i;.r ; "^Jo^iS, to jiielter l(ieM<.;ti\e3 in caverns; u
■tory w •;;•;! ()etrL:V' ;;;; less ignorai'.';',' of' ti,c real sitaatioo of
( hiii, li;.':. -. t.jlJx ■lu.r-urd of oiolal-li^.

IG

lance by their whiteness^ and form a very singu-
lar and pleasing" appearance. Those of the in-
habitants who are not sufficiently wealthy to
liave ice-houses, procure snow from the moun-
tains, which they transport upon mules. The
consumption of this article is very considerable,
as a general use is made of it in summer to cool
their liquors. The maritime countries, being at
a distance from the Andes, do not enjoy this ad-
vantage, but they feel the privation of it less, as
the heat is much more moderate upon the coast
than in the interior. In the midland provinces
is sometimes seen, in the month of August, a
white frost, accompanied by a slight degree of
cold, ■which is the greatest that is experienced in
those districts. This coldness continues two or
three hours after sun-rise ; from which time the
w eather is like that of a line day in spring.*

* So gcTieral is the opinion of the excessive cold in the south-
em extremity of America, that it is hazardous to contradict
it. I shall, however, venture to suggest some doubts respect-
ing so generally an admitted fact. At the same time that
Commodore Byron compares the temperatiue of the Straits of
Magellan in summer with the climate of England in midwinter,
he describes the country in the following manner : " Upon
Sandy Point we found a plenty of wood and very good water,
aiul for four or five miles t!ie shore was exceedingly pleasant.
Over the point there is a line level country, with a soil that,
to all appearance, is extremely rich, for the ground was co-
vered %Tith flowers of varwus kinds, that perfumed the air with
their fragrance ; and among them were berries almost innu-

17

The dews are abundant throughout Chili^ in
the sprini^, summer, and autumnal nights, and in
a great measure supply the want of rain during
those seasons. Although the atmosphere is then

raerable, where the blossoms had been shed ; we observed
that the grass was very good, and that it was interiQixed with
a great number of peas in blossom. Among this luxuriance
of herbage we saw many hundreds of birds feeding, which,
from their form, and the unconnnon beauty of their plumage,
we called painted geese. We walked mere than twelve miles,
and found great plenty of fiiie fresh water." " The place
abounded with geese, teal, snipes, and other birds that were
excellent food." " On each side of Sedger river there are
the finest trees I ever saw." " Some of them are of a groat
height, and more than eight feet in diameter, which is pro-
portionably more than eight yards in circumference; so that
four men, joining hand in hand, coulu not compass them ;
among others we found the pepper tree, or Winter's bark, in
great plenty. Among these woods, notwithstanding the cold-
ness of the climate, there are ianumerable parrots, and other
birds, of the most beautiful plumage." " The country between
i'ort Famine and Cape Forward, v.Iiich is distant about four
leagues, is extremely fine ; the soil appears to be very good,
and there are no less than three prelty huge rivers, besides
several brooks." " I made another excuision along the shore
»o the northward, and found tiie country for many miles ex-
i:eedingly pleasant, the ground being covered with flowers,
u'hicii were not inferior to those that are coni:iionly found in
our gardens, either in beauty or fragrance." — Haifkesworth's
Voyages, vol. i. chap. 4.

This description is no doubt correct, -^wA it is conformable
to that given of the country by many oiln r navigators, r»ut
how is it possible that so pleasing and pltntiful a vegtt.Uiou
VOL. 1. C

loaded with humidity, its salubrity is not injured
(hereby, for both husbandmen and travellers sleep
in the open air with perfect security.

Fogs are common on the coast, especially in

could be met ^^ ith amidst sucli excessive cold, or that parrets,
birds so attached to heat, should voluntarily inhabit a climate
condemned to perpetual winter ? And if the summer is so
cold that, accortling to this author, it may be compared to
midwinter in England, what idea must we form of the Ma-
gellanic winters. It is certain that Winter's bark is not only
met with in abundance on tlie northern shores of this strait,
but also from the account of Capt, Cook, in his second voyage,
on the island of Fuego ; yet this tree, which grows so plenti-
tuliy in the open air, cannot endure the winter of England,
whither it has been carried, unless aided by the artificial
warmth of a hot-house. To which may be added, that the
sea which surrounds those shores is never frozen, notwith-
standing the great quantities of fresh water that flow into it ;
a fact which all the European navigators who double Cape
Horn in snidwinter can testify. In themonth of June, 1768,
I was myself upon a voyage in that sea, as far as the 6 1st
degree of latitude, without meeting with the least indication
of freezing; and though it snowed very often, the cold was
not severer than that uhicii is usually felt during the winter
in Bologna. The floating islands of ice which are frequently
met with in those seas, particularly in the summer, are driven
by the southern w inds which blow from the antarctic regions.
The French who, in 1765, formed a settlement upon the
Maluine islands, in 51 deg. 40 min. lat. affirmed, that the win-
ter which they passed there was by no means severe, and that
the snow was never in such quantities as to cover the soles of
their shoes.* I have no doubt of the unpleasant occurrence
which befel Mr. Banks and his companion on the island of

?ee M. de Ncrville's Letters,
3

19

the autumn ; tlicy continue but a few hours in
the morning, and us Ihoj consist only of watery
particles, are not pnjudicial either to the health
of the iahabit.uit.s, or to the vegetation.

Sect VI. Winds. — The north and north-west
winds usually bring rain^ and the south and
south-east a clear sky. These serve as infallible
indications to the inhabitaits^ who are observant
of thetUj and furnish them with a kind of baro-
meter to determine previously the state of the
weather. The same winds produce directly con-
trary effects in the southern and in the n )rthern,
hemis;,heres. The north and northerly winds^

Fucgo ; but a single fact is not suflicient to establish a theory.
Tlie crew of the Spaui.sh -hip Coiiccptiori ))iissed the wliole
winter of 1766' there, without experiencing a: y hin^ of a si-
milar nature, which might have been prochicetl by a concur-
rence of various accidental causes. Wlienever this part of
tlie world becon'es well peopled, the cokl, which is now con.
sidered as natural to it, will be very sensibly decreased ; on
tile lands being cultivated, the air will be rendered as mild and
{ileasant as that which is enjoyed by the inhabitants of the
northern hemisphere situated under similar parallels of lati-
tude, it being a fact well ascertained, that a desert country
covered «ith woods is much more subject to all the inconve-
niences of the atmosphere, than one tilled with inhabitants,
and improved by cultivation.

The account given by Julius Caesar of the climate of France,
which at that period w as covered with w ood and uncultivatcdj
corresponds with that which the writers of our times have
given of the INIagellauic countries.

r 2

20

before they arrived at Chili, cross the torrid
zone, and there becoming loaded with vapours,
bring with them heat and rain. This heat is,
however, very moderate, and it would seem that
these winds, in crossing the Andes, which are
constantly covered with snow, become qualified,
and lose much of their heat and unhealthy pro-
perties. In Tucuman and Cujo, where they are
known by the name of Sonda, they are much
more incommodious and are more suffocating
than even the Siroc in Italy. The southerly
winds coming immediately from the antarctic
pole, are cold and dry. These are usually from
the south-west, and prevail in Chili during the
time that the sun is in the southern hemisphere.
They blow constantly towards the equator, the
atmosphere at that period being highly rarified,
and no adverse current of air opposing itself to
their course. As they disperse the vapours^ and
drive them towards the Andes, it rains but sel-
dom during their continuance. The clouds thus
collected upon these mountains, uniting v.ith
those which come from the north, occasion very
heavy rains, accompanied with thunder, in all the
provinces beyond the Andes, particularly in those
of Tucuman and Cujo, while, at the same time,
the atmosphere of Chili is constantly clear, and
its inliabitants enjoy their finest season. The
coulrary fakes place in winter, which is the iine
>c;i£oii 111 these provinceSj and the rainy in Chili.

21

The south wuid never continues blowing during
the whole day with the same force : as the sun
approaches the mei idian it falls very considerably:,
and rises aoain in the afternoon. At noon^ when
this wind is scarcely perceptible, a fresh breeze
is felt from the sea^ which continues about two
or three hours. The husbandmen give it the
name of the twelve o'clock breeze^ or the coun-
tryman's watch^ as it serves to regulate them in
determining that hour. This sea-breeze returns
regularly at midnight^ and is supposed to be pro-
duced by the tide. It is stronger in autumn and
sometimes accompanied with hail. The east
winds rarely prevail in Chili;, their course being
obstructed by the Andes. Hurricanes, so com-
mon in the Antilles^, are unknown there ; there
cxistSj indeed, a solitary example of a hurricane,
which, in 1633, did much injury to the fortress
of Caremalpo, in the southern part of Chili.

The mild temperature which Chili almost al-
ways enjoys, must depend entirely upon the succes-
sion of these winds, as a situation so near the tropic
would naturally expose it to a rnore violent de-
gree of heat. In addition to these, the tide, the
abuadant dews, and certain winds from the An-
des, which are distinct from the easl vvind, cool
the air so much in summer that, in th.; shade, no
one is ever iiicoramoded with perspirution. The
dress of the inhabitants of the sea-coast is the
'iiiiiiein vriiiter as in summer; and in the interior;,

c3

22

trhere the heat is more perceptible than elsewhere,
Reaumur's thermometer scarcely ever exceeds 25
degrees. The night?^ throughout the country,
are ge .erally of a very agreeable temperature.
TNot'>i.hstauding the moderate heat of Chili, all
the fruits of warm countries, and even those of
the tropics arrive to great perfection there,*

• Coutiguous to Peru is situated the province of Chili,
which extends in a long, narrow strip upon the coast of the
South Sea. The air is remarkably clear and serene, and for
three quarters of the year thiscoimtry enjoysan ahnost constant
temperature, as it rains very little during that period. The
want of rain is amply compensated by the copious dews and
the many streams which, desceudii;g from the Andes, fertilize
the plains, and render them productive of every kind of grain,
as well as wine, oil, and all those fruits which its inhabitants,
who are much reduced in their n\unbers, and not remarkable
for their industry, think proper to cultivate. Were the go-
vernment to show itself a little more favourable to the encou-
ragement of its industry and the increase of its population,
DO country in the world could rival it; since, at t!)c same
time, it enjoys a clear sky and a degree of heut which, tluiUgh
temperate, perfectly matures tiiose tiopical Iruits thai do not
grow sponlanecH'.sly excei)t in the torrid zone. The plains of
this country furnish in abundance whatever is jiecessary or
conducible to the comfort of life ; while the mouiitains contain
the richest treasures, in mines of gold, silver, copper, lead,
iron, and quicksilver. Those that are principally wrought are
the gold mines, and there is. scarcely in the whole coiunry a
stream whose sands do not contain this precious metal in
greater or less abundance. But the indolence of the inha-
bitants prevents many of the mines from being wrought, and,
what is a stiil greater evil, the soil from being cultivated in

2S

which renders it probable, that the warmth of
the soil far exceeds that of the atmosphere.
The countries bordering on the east of Chili do
not enjoj these refreshing winds ; the air there
is suffocating*, and as oppressive as in Africa
under the same latitude.

Sect. VII. Meteors. — Meteors are very fre-
quent in Chili, especially those called shooting-
stars, which are to be seen there almost the whole
year, and balls of fire that usually rise from the
Andes and fall into the sea. The aurora austra-
lis, on the contrary, is very uncommon. That
which was observed in 1640 was one of the
largest ; it was visible, from the accounts that
have been left us, from the month of February

tlie inanner it deservos. Not^vitl1sta^(liIJg so few are employed
ill cultivation, and tiiosc bv no means very industiions, a suf-
ficient quantily of wheat for the subsistence of 60^,000 per-
sons, is annually sent from Chili to Callao, and the other ports
of Peru, for tiierc are not in the world lands more productive
of every kin<l of grain. Besides the great quantities of wine
and hemp that are exported every year, the last of which is
cultivated in uo other part of the South Sea, those of hides,
tallow, jerked beef, gold and other metals, which constitute
the most valuable cargoes, and are shipped from all the ports,
are much more considerable. The chief occupation of the
inhabitants is the breeding of cattle, which are so plenty, that
an ox may be bought for a trifling sum ; an unequivocal proof
of the fertility of the country, where m uey is comparatively
of little value. — History of the European Settlements in
America, vol. i. part 3. chap. 11.

c 4

24

until April. During this century they have ap-
peared at four different times, but I cannot de-
signate their particular periods. This pheno-
menon is more frequently visible in the Archi-
pelago of Chiloe, from the greater elevation of
the pole in that part of the country.

Sect. VIII. Volcanoes. — That a country pro-
ducing such an abundance of sulphureous,
nitrous, and bituminous substances, should be
subject to volcanic eruptions, is not to be won-
dered at. The numerous volcanoes in the Cor-
dilleras would, of themselves, furnish a sufficient
proof of the quantity of these combustible ma-
ierials. There are said to be fourteen, which
are in a constant state of eruption, and a still
greater number that discharge smoke only at in-
tervals. These are all situated in that pari of
the Andes appertaining to Chili, and nearly in
the middle of that range of mountains ; so that
the lava and ashes thrown out by them never ex-
tend beyond their limits. TIicsc mountains and
their vicinities are found, on examination, to con-
tain great quaiititirs of sulphur and sal-ammoniac,
niarcasite in an entire and decomposed state, cal-
cined and crvstallizcd stones, and various me-
tallic substances.

The preatcst eruption ever known in Chili was
that of Petcroa, which happened on the 3d of
December. 1760. when that volcano formed

25

itself a new crater, and a neiglibouring moun-
tain was rent asunder for many miles in extent.
The eruption was accompanied by a dreadful ex-
plosion, which was heard throughout the whole
country ; fortunately it was not succeeded bj
any very violent shocks of an earthquake. The
quantity of the lava and ashes was so great, that
it filled the neighbouring valleys, and occasioned
a rise of the waters of the Tingeraca, which con-
tinued for many days. At the same time th.e
course of the Lontue, a very considerable river^
was impeded for ten days, by a part of the moun-
tain which fell and filled its bed. The water
at length forced itself a passage, overflowed all
the neighbouring plains, and formed a lake which
still remains. In the whole of the country not
incliidcd in the x\ndes, there are but two volca-
nons, tlic first, €itua(ed at the mouth of the river
Rape! , is small, and discharge^ only a little smoke
from time to time. The second is the great vol-
cano of Villarica, near the lake of the same
name in tlie country of Arauco. This volcano
pi ay be seen at the distance of 150 miles, and
although it appears to be isolated, it is said to be
connected by its base v, itli the Ande.c. The sum-
mit of the mountain is covered with snow, and
is in a constant state of eruption. It is fourteen
miles in circumference at its base, which is prin-
cipally covered with picajant forests. A great
number of rivers derive their sources from it, and.

26

its perpetual verdure furnishes a proof that its
eruptions have never been very violent.

Sect. IX. Earthquakes. — The quantity of
inflammable substances with which the soil of
Chili abounds, rendered active by the electric
fluid, may be considered as one of the principal
causes of the earthquake, the only scourge that
afflicts this favoured country. Another, however,
not less capable, in my opinion, of producing-
this terrible phenomenon, is the elasticity of the
air contained in the bowels of the earth, in con-
sequence of the water which, insinuating itself
by subterranean passages from the sea, becomes
changed into vapour. This hypothesis will ex-
plain why the countries to the east of the Andes,
at a distance from the sea, are so little incom-
moded by earthquakes. Two provinces however,
Copiapo and Coquimbo, although near the sea,
and as rich in minerals as the others, have never
sulFcred from earthquakes ; and while the other
parts of the country have been violently shaken,
these have not experienced the least sliock, or
been but slightly agitated. It is a general opi-
nion that the earth in these provinces is inter-
sected by large caverns. The noises heard in
many places, and which appear to indicate the
passage of waters or subterraneous winds, seem
to confirm this opinion, and it is highly probable
that by affording a free vent to the inflamed sub-

27

stances, tliese caverns may serve to counteract
the progress of those convulsions to which the
neighbouring country is subject.

The inhabitants usually calculate three or four
earthquakes at Chili annually, but they are very
slight, and little attention is paid to them. The
great earthquakes happen but rarely.* The

* Ih a period of 244 jears, from the arrival of the Spa-
niards to the year 1782, tive great earthquakes liave occurred
in Chih'. The first, which was in the year 1520, destroyed
some villages in tiic soutliern provinces; the second, on the
13th of May, in the year l647, ruined many of the houses of
St. Jago ; the third, on the I6tli of March, l6"57, destroyed
a great part of that capital ; the ft)urth took phice on the 1 8th
of June, IJ'M), wlun tlie sea was driven against the city of
Conception, an<t overthrew its walls ; and the fifth on the 26th
of May, 1751, ccmipletely destroyed that city, which was
again inundated by the sea, and levelled with the ground all
the fortresses and villages situated between the 34th and 40th
degrees of latitude. Its cour>e was from south to north, and
it was announced by some slight siiocks on the preceding
nights ; more especially by one about a quarter of an hour
before its comnioncement, accxjmpanied by a ball of fire that
precipitated iisclf from the Andes into the sea. Tlic great
shucks began about midnight, and conthmed four or five
minutes each, but the earth was in a state of almost constant
vibration until day-break. Just before the earhquake the
sky was perfectly clear in every quarter, but im iiediately after
its conniicnccment it became covered wilh black clouds, which
poured down a continual rain for the spare of eight days,
at the end of wiiich there was a recurrence of slight tremblingj
tliat continued during a mouth, wiili short inter\als between
iwd), of fifieea or twenty minutes. It is not supposed that on

28

shocks were probablj more violent before the in-
flammable materials found outlets bjthe means of
volcanoes. At present they produce only hori-
zontal or oscillatory motions. From a course of
accurate observations it has been ascertained,
that earthquakes never occur unexpectedly in
this country, but are always announced by a
hollow sound proceeding from a vibration of the
air; and as the shocks do not succeed each other
rapidly, the inhabitants have sufficient time to
provide for their safety. They have, however,
in order to secure themselves, at all events, built
their cities in a very judicious manner ; the streets
are left so broad, that the inhabitants would be
safe in the middle of them, should even the
houses fall upon both sides.

In addition to this, all the houses have spacious
courts and gardens, which would serve as places
of refuge. Those who are wealthy, have usually
in their gardens, several neat wooden barracks,
where they pass the night whenever they are
threatened with an earthquake. Under these
circumstances, the Cbilians live without appre-
hension, and consider themselves in perfect secu-
rity ; especially, as the earthquakes have never
been hitherto attended with any considerable

tljis occasion a single person perished in the whole province,
excepting seven invalids, who were drowned in the city of
Concep'iion ; and the loss of lives, if any, was no greater irs
liic preceding eartliqi!;.'kcs.

^9

sinking of the earth, or falling of buildings.
This, in my opinion, is owing to subterranean
passages communicating with the volcanoes of
the Andes, which are so many vent-holes for the
inflamed substances, and serve to counteract their
efl'ects. Were it not for the number of these
volcanoes. Chili would, in all probability, be
rendered uninhabitable.

Some pretend that they can foretel an earth-
quake from certain changes in the atmosphere.
Although this does not appear to me impossible,
I must acknowledge that my own experience has
furmshed me with nothing to induce rae to cre-
dit it. I was born and educated in Chili, and
while in that country paid great attention to the
state of the air during earthquakes : I have
known them occur both in the rainy and dry sea-
sons, during a storm as well as a calm.

Sect. X. Salubrity of Climate — The inha-
bitants of Chili, notwithstanding the frequent
occurrence of earthquakes, are very well satis-
fied with their country, ami I am co;'\inccd
would not readily be induced to quit it for any
other exempt from this calamity.

This preference is not foujsded solelv upon
that natural attachment to c )untry, wlach is
common to all men, but is derived from some
advantages peculiar to Chili; a soil naturally
fertile, and well adapted to every useful and

30

valuable production, a mild and almost equable
temperature of climate, and a remarkable salu-
brity, are the blessings enjoyed by this delight-
ful country.* Before the arrival of the Spa-

* If Chili is not jiopulous, it cannot be attributed to the
fault of its climate, wliich is one ot the most salubrious of any
known, the contiguity of the Cordilleras communicating to it
a dehghtful temperature, which, from its latitude, it could not
be expected to enjoy. Nor does Spain possess a province
more pleasant and agreeable as a place of residence. — Phi-
losophical History of the European Establishments, book viii.
chap. 2.

There are two reasons which have impeded the population
of Chili, and counterbalanced the advantages it has received
from nature : The first, the almost continual wars between the
Spaniards and the Araucanians from its first discovery, which
have destroyed an infinite number of people : The second
(and the principal) the commercial restrictions which were im-
posed upon that country, as for a century the Chilians had no
direct communication with Europe, nor were tliey permitted
to send any of their produce to any other place than Ciilcao,
from whence it followed, I hat every species of exportation and
importation was conducted by the merchants of Peru, who of
course reaped all the prolit of this trade. This pernicious
system discouraged industry, and had a sensible eifect upon
the population ; but of late, since a direct counnerce has been
carried on with European ships, which arrive every year in
some of the ports of Chili, that delightiul count ry l)egins to
increase in nund^eis, and, in some measure, to raise ilself to
that important station which its natural advantages claim. In
the year 1755, in the province of JNIunlc alone, there were
calculated to be 14,000 whites capable of bearing arms, and
the population of the other provinces had increased in a de-
gree proportiouate to the extent of their iioiits. The esti-

31

iiiards contagious disorders were unknown : the
small pox, which occasionally makes its appear-
ance in the northern provinces,, and is known bv
the name of the piaguCj was first introduced by
them.* At such times, the inhabitants of the
neighbouring- provinces oblige every person
coming from the infected district to perform a
rigorous quarantine, and by that means have
preserved themselves from the ravages of that
destructive malady, \yhenever the Indians sus-
pect any one to be attacked with itj which some-
times happens from their intercourse with the
Spaniards, they burn him in his own hut,f by

mates, therefore, made by Dr. Robertson and the Abbe
Raynal, in tiieir histories, are, in this particular, incorrect,
being founded on accounts furnished during the last centurv.

• The small pox raged in Peru before the Spaniards entered it ;
just when Pizarro was first off the coast, and had landed his
t« o men. The Inca died of it. Whence did this cojv.e ? —
Perhaps it had spread from Mexico. — E. Editor.

Her r era, 5.3. 17-

tin Abyssinia also, whenever a'liouse is supposed to be in-
fected with the small pox, the people set fire to it, and bum
it with all its inhabitants !— £. E.

The most striking picture of the ravages of this dreadful
malady among savage tribes, is given by Mackenzie.

It spread around with a baneful rapidity which no flight
could escape, and with a fatal effect that nothing could resist.
It destroyed with its pestilential breath whole families and
tribes, and the horrid scene presented to tlie beholders a com-
bJcation of the dead, the dying, and such as to avoid the hor-

33

meahs of fiery arrows. By this method, which
is truly a violent one, they have hitherto pre-
vented its progress, and been exempted from this
disorder.

A physicianofthe country, Matthias Verdu go,
a monk of the order of St. John, was the first
who, in 1761, introduced inoculation, and since
that period it has been practised with great suc-
cess. Tertian and quartan fevers are also un-
known there ; and the inhabitants of the neigh-
bouring provinces who are afflicted with them^

rid fate of their friends around them, prepared to disappoint
the plague of its prey by terminating their own existence.

The habits and lives of these devoted people, which provided
not to-day for tlie wants of to-morrow, must have heightened
the pains of such an affliction, by leaving them not 6nly without
remedy, but even without alleviation.

To aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible, may
be added, the putrid carcases which the wolves dragged forth
from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the
dogs, whose hunger was satisfied with the disfigured remains
of their masters. Nor was it unconmion for the fatlicr of a
family whom the infection had not reached, to call them
around him, to represent the cruel sufferings and horrid fate
of their relations, from the iniiuence of some evil spirit who
\\i-d% preparing to extirpate their race, and to invite them to
bafile death with all its horrors by their own poniards. At
the same time, if their hearts failed them in this necessary
act, he was himself ready to perform the deed of m'ercy with
his own hand, as the last act of his affectioii, and instantly to
follow them to the common place of rest and refuge frou'.
iiuman f:\i\, ^^Mackenzie.

A'

33

are accustomed to come into Cliili for the benefit
of their healthy where they very soon recover.
A violent fever, accompanied with delirium, is
sometimes prevalent among the country people,
particularly in summer and in autumn. This
complaint, which the Indians cure with certain
herbs, whose properties they have learnt by ex-
perience, bears the name of chaTO longo, which
signifies the disorder of the head. The venereal
disease is but little known in the Spanish settle-
ments, and still less among the Indians. As the
last have no word in their language expressive of
it, there is every reason to presume that this ma-
lady was not known among them until after the
arrival of the Spaniards. The rickets, a disease
which for three centuries has been a scourge to
Europe, is as yet unknown within the bound-
aries in Chili, and lame or deformed persons arc
very rarely to be met with.* To many of the

* The Creoles are generally v, ell shaped, and there are
scarce any of those deformed persons, so comfnon in other
countries, to be seen among them ; besides which, they almost
all possess great flexibility and activity of limbs. — Philosophi-
cal History, book xi. chap. 18.

Not only tlie Creoles, who are descended from the Europeans,
but also the aborigines of the country, display equal perfec-
tion of form. Some autliors pretend, that the reasort why
none who are deformed, or cripples, are t© be found among
these people, is owing to the savage custom which the parents
have of destioying such unfortunate children at their birth ;
but this is a mere, picture of the imagination ; at least, among

VOL. I, I>

34

maladies, peculiar to hot countries, such as the
Siam fever, the hlack vomit, and the leprosy, its
inhabitants are likewise equally strangers. No
instance of the hydrophobia has ever occurred,
and M. de la Condamine justly observes, that m
South America the dogs,* cats, and other animals
are never afflicted with madness.

Chili produces none of those dangerous or ve-
nomous animals which are so much dreaded in hot
countries; and it has but one species of small
serpent, which is perfectlyharmless, as the French
Academicians ascertained when they went to Peru,
in 1736, to measure a degree of the meridian. f
The lions, which are sometimes riiet with in the
thickest and least frequented forests, are distin-
guished from the African lion, both by their
being without hair, and their timidity ; there h

the Chilians no trace of so inhuman a practice has ever been
discovered, as numbers who liave lived with tiiem for )eai5
have positively assured nie.

■* This fact is certain. Does it nof follow that (his dread-
ful malady is never generated without infection, and therefore
that it is possible to annihilate it? — E. E

t This country is not infested by any kind of insect except
the chiguas or pricker, or aiiv poi-^onous reptile ; and although
in the woods and fields some sr.akes are to be found, their
bite is bv no means dangerous ; nor does any savage or fero-
cious beuil excite terror in its plains. — Ulloas Foyage, part ii.
vol. 3.

3d

ho instance of their ever having" attacked a man^
and a person may not only travel, but lie down to
sleep with perfect security, in any part of the
plain, and even in the thickest -forests of the
mountains. Neither tigers, wolves, nor many
other ferocious beasts that infest the neighbour-
ing countries, are known there. Probably the
great ridge of the Andes, which is every where
extremely steep, and covered w ith snow, serves
as a barrier to their passage. The mildness of
the climate may also be unfavourable to them,
as the greater part of these animals are natives
of the hottest countries.

d2

3(j

CHAP. I.

Waters, Earths, Stones^, Salts, Bitumens, and
Me tats.

Chili is a plane very perceptibly inclined to-
wards the sea, and may be considered as a pro-
longation of the western base of the Andes.
From its situation it naturally receives the waters
produced by the melting of that immense body
of snow that annually falls upon those mountain,
while the provinces to the east are frequently in
want of water. The number of rivers, streams,
and springs, which irrigate the country, is incon-
ceivable. They are to be found in every part,
even on the tops of some of the maritime moun-
tains.

Sect. I. Rivers. — It is difficult to determine
the number of rivers and streams that have their
sources in the Andes ; the principal, however,
amount to one hundred and twenty-three, fifty-
two of which communicate directly with the sea,
and convey thither the waters of all the others.
Although, from the inconsiderable breadth of
the country, the course of these rivers is short.

37

there are several of them that arc navigable at
least half their distance for ships of the line.
Of this number are, the Maule, in the province
of the same name ; the Bio-bio^ which is two
miles in breadth ; the Cauten ; the Tolten ; the
Valdiviaj in the country of Arauco ; the Chaivin ;
the Rio-bueno, in the country of the Cunches ;
and the Sinfondo^* which discharges itself into the
Archipelago of Chiloe.

The course of these rivers is extremely rapid
as far as the maritime mountains, where, from
the make of the ground, they flow more slowly.
The beds are very broad, their bottoms generally
stony, and the banks low.

This last circumstance is of great service to
the husbandmen, who avail themselves of it to
let the water into canals, from which, in times
of drought, they water their fields ; by this
means they are never in want of water, even in
the dry season, as the rivers are then always full,
in consequence of the melting of the snow on
the Andes at that period.f

* Probably so called from its depth.— JE. E,

t The rivers which water and fertilize the whole country
upon the western side of the Andes, from whence they spring,
are very numerous, and discliarge themselves into the Pacitic
Ocean. The banks, covered with beuutiful trees that always
retain their verdure, and the clearness and coohiess of so many
crystal streams, render this country the most delightful in the

d3

ob

From the latter part of September to Febru-
ary, the water in these rivers is at its greatest
height ; their rise is, however, by no means uni-
form, since some of them are observed to increase
most in the morning, others at mid-day, and
others towards evening ; a circumstance which
may probably be owing lo the greater or less
exposure of their springs to the sun. Notwith-
standing these floods are copious, they never in-
undate the adjacent plains, from the beds of the
rivers being, as I have already observed, very
broad. Though many of these streams appear
to be shallow, frequent instances have occurred
of persons being drowned who have attempted to
ford them on horseback. The common opinion
that snow-water produces goitres, appears to bo
*unfounded, if we may be allowed to form a judg-
ment from that of these rivers. Their waters

v'orld. Its thermal and mineral waters likewise contribute
much to the health of the inhabitants.— Co/e/i'* Dictionary
cj South America ; article Chili.

* There is a passage in the Coroneca del Orden de S.Augustin
en el Peru, by M. F.Antonio de Calancha, which mentions goi-
tres as common among some of the Peruvian mountaineers.
I made no reference to this fact, not supposing that I should
ever want to refer to it ; the book has no other Index tlian
an absurd one of all the texts of scripture which it quotes ;
and I want leisure, as well as inclination, again to examine a
volume containing more than .900 large and full folio pnges^
Vvitli about two lies to every page.— £. E.

39

which are excellent, and constantly drank by the
inhabitants, cannot be considered as any thing but
liquefied snow^ vet is this disease wholly unknown
in Chili.

Sect. II. Lakes. — Lakes of salt and fresh
water are common in Chili. The first are situ-
ated in the marshes of the Spanish provinces ;
the most remarkable are the Cucalemu, the
Caguil, and the Bojeruca, which are from 12 to
20 miles in length. Those of fresh water are
contained in the interior provinces^ and are the
Ridaguel, the Aculeu, the Taguatagua, the La-
quen, and the Nahuelguapi ; the two latter,
situated in the country of the Araucanians, are
the largest. The Laquen, which the Spaniards
call the lake of Villarica, is 72 miles in circum-
ference, and in the centre of it rises a beautiful
little hill in the form of a cone. The Nahuel-
guapi is 80 miles in circumference, and has
likewise in the middle a pleasant island covered
with trees. These lakes are the sources of two
considerable rivers ; the first of the Talton,
which falls into the Pacific Ocean ; the latter of
the Nahuelguapi, which empties itself into the
Patagonian Sea, near the straits of Magellan.
"VVithin the Andes are also many lakes, but they
are of little importance.

Sect. III. Mineral lVaters.~^\ country like
D 4

40

Chili, abounding in mineral and bituminous sub
stances, must necessarily produce a great number
of mine al springs, the virtues of whose waters
must have become known to the inhabitants.
Gaseous and acidulated waters are common in
all the provinces, particularly in the valleys at
the foot of the Andes. Some springs are vitriolic
and impregnated with iron, others sulphuric or
muriatic; their temperature is in general that of
the atmosphere ; but there are some that are cold
in summer, a quality probably derived from their
sources being in the vicinity of mines or springs
of salt. But as I have never carefully analyzed
these waters, 1 am not able to give accurate in-
formation respecting them.

The provinces of Copiapo and Coquimbo are
rich in salt springs. In the former, there is a
river called from its saltness Salado, which, like
the other large rivers, has its source in the An-
des, and falls into the Pacific Ocean. The water
of this river is very clear and extremely salt ; and
its specific gravity is, according to the season of
the year, from fifteen to eighteen degrees.

The salt crystallizes naturally upon the
shores ; it is excellent and fit for use without any
preparation, as it is very pure and not mixed
with calcarious earth, or any heterogeneous salts.
In a valley of the Andes, inhabited by the Pe-
hucnches, in 34 dcg. 40 min. latitude, arc eXeyen
springs of very clear and lin)pid water, which

41

overflows the surface, and becomes crystallized
into a salt as white as snow. This valley is
about fifteen miles in circumference, and is en-
tirely covered, for the depth of six feet, with a
crust of salt, which is collected by the inha-
bitants in large pieces, and used for all domestic
purposes. The surrounding mountains afford no
external indication of mineral salt, but they must
necessarily abound with it^, from the great quan-
tities deposited by these springs.

Mineral waters are common in Chili. The
most celebrated are those of the Spanish settle-
ments of Peldehues and Cauquenes. The source
of the former is on the summit of one of the ex-
terior mountains of the Andes, to the north of
St. Jago. It consists of two springs of very
different temperatures, one hot, and the other
cold ; the former is sixty degrees above the
freezing point by Reaumur's thermometer, the
latter four degrees below it. They are about
eighty feet distant, and their w aters arc united,
by means of canals, so as to form a tepid bath,
which is found very efficacious in many disorders.
The water of the hot spring is oily to the touch,
and foams like soap suds ; it abounds with mi-
neral alkali, which appears to be combined with
an unctuous substance in a state of solution.
It is clear, inodorous, impregnated with a very
littl« fixed air, and its specific weight is but
two degrees above that of common distilled

42

water. Its heat is probably owing to the effer-
Ycscence of a large body of pyrites in the vicinity
of its source. The water of the cold spring is
iron and vitriolic^ and, when mixed with that of
the warm^ deposits Glauber's salt and a yellowish
ochre.

The baths of Cauquenes are in one of the
valleys of the Cordilleras, near the source of
Caciapoal, a very considerable river. As the
situation is very pleasant, great numbers of per-
sons resort there during the summer, as well for
amusement as for the recovery of health.

The springs are numerous and of various
qualities and temperatures. Some of them are
cold, others hot; some acidulated, and impreg-
nated in a greater or less degree with iron ;
while others are alkalescent or vitriolic, and
several, like those of Pisa, are merely gaseous.
The principal spring is very warm and sulphuric ;
its margin is covered with a yellow efflorescence
of sulphur, and the water has a strong hepatic
smell ; it contains besides an alkali and a neutral
salt. The surrounding mountains abound with
every kind of mineral, and near the spring are
great numbers of willows, which are covered
with a species of manna, in globules of the size
of grains of gun-powder.

Three mineral springs, adjoining the high
road to Cujo, afford a neutral salt, with a cal-
careous base, of a sharp and bitter taste, and

43

easily soluble ; it is collected in great quantities
upon the borders of these springs, where it shoots
into crystals that are usually of a quadrangular
prismatic form. The inhabitants use it for
Glauber's salt, which they believe it to be; but
I am more inclined to think it a species of Ep-
som salt, as it has neither the base nor the form
of the true Glauber, yet, as I have never had an
opportunity of analyzing it critically, 1 cannot
determine with positiveness. Mineral waters arc
in great estimation with the Arauranians, who
consider them as peculiarly beneficial, and as
under the particular care and protection of
MeuUn, one of their benevolent deities, whom
they call Gcncorunco, or. Lord of the mineral
li^aters.

Sect, IV. Soil. — The soil of Chili is wonder-
fully fertile ; its fertility is not, however, equal
throughout the country, but is increased in pro-
portion to its distance from the sea.* The mari-
time are less productive than the middle districts,
and the latter are inferior in quality of soil to
the vallevs of the Andes. In these last, the ve-
getation is more luxuriant and vigorous, and the
animals larger and stronger than in the other

' Tlio plains, the mountains, the valleys, in short, all Ciiili,
without exception, is an object of wonder; since from its ex-
treme (Vrtility, it would seem as if every particle of earth whs
converted into seed.— .^wt'rzca/i Ga%eileer; article Chill

44

parts of the country ; but as the people who in-
habit these rich valleys are Nomades, or herds-
men, and in reality cultivate nothing, it is diffi-
cult to determine with precision the degree of
their fertility. The various salts and other prin-
ciples of fecundity contained in these mountains,
and by means of the air and the rivers distributed
throughout the country, combining with the
natural heat of the soil, may be considered as
the real causes of that inexhaustible fertility
which requires not the aid of manure. The
husbandmen have discovered by experience that
all artificial manures are superfluous, if not inju-
rious ; they allege in proof the great fertility of
the land in the vicinity of St. Jago, which, not-
withstanding it has never been manured since the
settlement of the Spaniards, a period of two hun-
dred and thirty-nine years, though constantly
cultivated by them, and for an unknown time by
the Indians before them, has lost nothing of its
productive properties.

Another advantage resulting from the richness
of the soil is, that Chili is not infestedwith those
worms so destructive to grain in the blade, which
are produced or multiplied by the fermentation
and putrefaction of manure.

Those who have written upon Chili are not
agreed as to the product of the soil. Some say
that it yields from sixty to eighty, and even a

45

hundred fold ;* others, that the crop is con-
sidered as poor if it does not exceed a hun-

* The river of Chile, called also the river of Acoiicagjia,
from its rising in a valley of that name, is celebrated for the
prodigious quantity of wheat which is every year produced
upon its shores ; from whence, and the vicinity of St. Jago,
is brought all the grain exported from V^alparaiso to Callao,
Lima, and other parts of Peru. Such is the quantity, that it
19 inconceivable to any one unacquainted with the excellence
of the soil, which usually yields from sixty to eighty for one,
how a country so thinly peopled, whose cultivable lands are
comprised within a few valle\s of not more than ten leagues
square, can furnish such quantities of grain in addition to what
is wanted for the support of the inhabitants. During the
eight months while we were at Valparaiso, there sailed from
that port alone thirty vessels loaded with wheat, each of which
would average six thousand fanegas, or three thousand mule
loads, a quantity sufficient for the subsistence of sixty thousand
persons for a year. — Frazier's Voyage, vol. i.

Besides the c>3mmerce of hides, tallow, and dried beef, the
inhabitants of Conception carry on a trade in wheat, with
which they annually load eight or ten ships of four or five hun-
dred tons burthen for Callao, exclusive of the flour and ship
bread for the supply of the French ships that stop at Peru oa
their return to France. Bat all this would be little for this
excellent countiy, if the earth was properly cultivated, which
is so fertile and easy of tillage, that the inhabitants merely-
scratch it over with a plough, or more frequently with the
crooked branch of a tree, used for that purpose, drawn by a
pair of oxen ; and so prolific is the soil, that, for tlie purpose
of vegetation, the seed scarcely requires a slight covering, and
will yield a hundred for one.— /^jc/.

46

dred ;* while there are those who assure us ttiat
it often amounts to three hundred for one.f I am
not disposed to question the account of respect-
able writers, several of whom have been eye
witnesses of what they describe : especially, as
instances of fertility occasionally occur that are
truly wonderful. I have myself seen lands that
produced a hundred and twenty, and even a hun-
dred and sixty for one, but these are extraordi-
nary cases, and cannot serve as data for a gene-
ral estimate.

The common crop in the middle districts is

* Another more important source of wealth, although less
appreciated by its possessors, is what arises from the fertility
of the soil, which is truly astonishing. All the European fruits
attain perfection in this favoured climate, and the wines would
be excellent were it not for a bitter taste acquired in consC'
quence of their being kept in jars smeared with a kind of rosin,
and afterwards put into skins for transportation. When the
crop of grain does not exceed an hundred for one, it is consi-
dered as poor and scanty. — Philosophical History, book viii.

It is not a good year when the crop of wheat does not ex-
ceed a hundred for one, and it is the same with all other grain.
— Ulloa's Voyage, vol.iii.

t The soil is excellent, but differiHg, in some degree, as it
approaches or recedes from the equator. The valleys of Co-
piapo frequently yield three hundred for one ; the plains of
Guasko and Coquimbo, are nearly as productive, and the lands
on the river Chile are so fertile that they have given its name
to the country. — Sanson s (of AhheviUej Geography j article
Chili.

47

from sixty to seventy for one, and from forty to
fifty in the maritime. Between the 24th and 34th
degrees of latitude the husbandmen irrigate their
fields by artificial means,, which renders their
crops generally more certain than in the south-
ern provinces, where they depend upon the dews*
although the rivers and streams offer them the
same advantages. The estimate which I have
made, might, however, be increased, were the
grain which is lost during the harvesting to be
taken into account ; as the liusbandmen have
adopted a very injurious custom of not reaping
their corn until it begins to shell out, in conse-
quence of which much is wasted and serves as
food for the birds ; and it happens not unfre-
quently, that what is left produces a second crop
without any tillage or farther sowing of the
ground.

The difference in the vegetation of the mari-
time and middle provinces depends upon the
qualities of their respective soils. That upon
the coast resembles the rich grounds of Bologna;
its colour is brown, inclining to red, it is brittle,
clayey, contains a little marie, and is filled with
flint, stones, pyrites, shells, and other marine
substances. In the interior, and in the valleys of
the Andes, the soil is of a blackish colour,
inclining to yellow; it is brittle, and frequently
mingled with gravel and marine substances in a
state of decomposition. This quality of the

48

loil is continued to a considerable depth, as is
discoverable in the ravines and beds of the rivers.

Sect. V. Physical Organization. — The ma-
rine substances that are met with in every part
of Chili, are incontestible proofs of its having
been formerly covered by the ocean, which, gra-
dually retiring, has left the narrow strip of land
extending from the shore to the Andes.* Every

* The retrocession of the sea from the coast of Chih* is
every year very perceptible, although not the same in every
part. In some places it docs not exceed two inches, while in
others, especially at the mouths of the rivers, it is more than
half a foot. This circumstance, apart from other more general
causes, is most probably owing to the shoals produced by the
flowing of so many large rivers into the sea ; these consist the
first year only of a light sand, in the second they produce a
little grass, and in the third are entirely clothed with verdure.
To this cause is the conformation of the shores assignable,
which consist in general of a plain two leagues broad between
the sea and the maritime mountains. Upon the western
declivities of these mountains, the vestiges of the ocenn are
still very perceptible ; they are excavated in various modes,
and exhibit many singular grottos, containing rooms hung
with shells and beautiful spars, which afford shelter to the
cattle durhig the heats of summer. On the left bank of the
river Maule, at four hundred paces distance from its mouth,
is an insulated mass of white marble, consisting of a single
piece, seventy-five feet in height, two hundred and twenty-four
in length, and fifty-four in breadth. This immense block,
called from its appearance, the church, is excavated within
like au arch the third part of its height, aud has on the outsidv

3

49

thing within these limits offers incontestible
proofs, that the land has been for a longtime co-
vered by the ocean ; the three parallel chains of
maritime mountains, the hills that unite them
with the Andes, in fine, all the ramifications of

three doors of a semi-circular form, and proportionate height
and breadth. Through the one on tlie western front, the
sea contitiually flows; the two others, which are on the north
and south sides, and placed opposite, serve to admit those who
wish to visit it at the tide of ebb. This natural edifice, constant-
ly washed by the sea, serves as a place of resort for the sea-
%volvcs, who herd in great numbers in the lower part, and make
the cavity re-echo with tlieir lugubrious cries; while the upper
is occupied by a species of sea-bird, very white, called lili, in
figure and size resembling a house-pij;eon. On the shore
of the province of Rancagua, at a short distance from the
sea, is n mass of stone, excavated in a similar manner, called
by the inhabitants the church of Rosario. Grottos and
caverns of this sort are very numerous in the Andes, and of
great extent. In the mountaini near the source of the river
Longavi, is a cavern of an oval form, and so large that it will
readily admit a man on horseback ; but w hat renders this
cave particularly remarkable is, that at sunrise, before the
summits of the Andes are tinged by its beams, the rays of
that luminary, penetrating through some aperture, presents to
the eve a wonderful phenomenon. In the same rar.ge of
mountaine is, likewise, the celebrated bridge of the Inca, which
is notliing but a large mountain, cut tlirough by the river
Mendoza. This mountain principally consists of gypsum,
and large clusters of beautifid stalactites, formed by the
crystallization of that substance, are suspended from the arch
of the bridge.

VOL. I. E

50

the latter appear to have been successively formed
by the agency of its waters.

The interior structure of the Andes every
where exhibits a very different origin, and ap-
pears to be coeval with the creation of the w orld.
This immense mountain, rising- abruptly, forms
but a small angle with its base ; its general shape
is that of a pyramid, crowned at intervals with
conical, and, as it were, crystallized elavations.
It is composed of primitive rocks of quartz of an
enormous size and almost uniform contiguration,
containing no marine substances, which abound
in the secondary mountains. On the top of
Descabezado, a very lofty mountain in the midst
of the principal chain of the Andes, whose
height appears to me not inferior to that of the
celebrated Chimboraso of Quito, various shells,
evidently the production of the sea, oysters,
conchs, periwinkles, &c. are found in a calcii.ed
or petrified state, that Nvere doubtless deposited
there by the waters of the deluge.

The summit of this mountain, whose form
appears to be owing to some volcanic eruption,
is flat, and exhibits a plain of tnore than six
miles square ; in the middle is a very deep lake,
Mhich, from every appearance, was formerly the
crater (;f a volcano.

The [iriiicipal chain of the Andes is situated
between two of less height that are parallel to
it. These lalcrai chains are about twentv-tive

51

or thirty ruiles distant from the principal, but are
connected with it by transverse ramifications,
apparently of" ihc same age and organization,
ahliougli their bases are more extensive and
variegated. F 'am the lateral ridges many other
branches extend outwardly, composed of small
mountains, occasionally running in different
directions.

These external mountains, rs well as the
middle and maritime, are of a secondary
formation, and an order essentially diffeicnt.
Their summits are generally more rounded, and
they consist of horizontal strata cf various
substances and unequal tiiicknes.v, wuicli abound
with marine productions, and ofLen exhibit the
impressions of animals and vegetables. I have
observed both in excavations formed by the
water, and those made by the ipdia!)i(ants, that
the inferior stratum of these moiint;iins is gene-
rally a kind of whetstone, of a reddish colour
and a sandy grain, sometimes a quartzeous sand,
or a compact dark {!:rcv sandstoi'c ; this i-;
succeeded bv layers of clay^ marie, various kinds
of marble, schi^tus, spar, gvpsuu', and coal;
beneath the whole are found veins of ore, oc?ire,
quart/', gr;uiite, porphyry, tiaid, and rocks of
various degr':^e3 of hardness.

The disposition of the strata varies very conu-
derably in different places, and in these derange-
ments the huvs of sTavitation are seldom ob-

E 2

52

served, as what forms the upper stratum in one
mountain, I have discovered to be the inferior in
another. They in general, however, preserve a
degree of regularity in their inclination, which is
from south to north, a little tending towards the
west, corresponding with the relative situation
of the ocean, whose currents are from south to
north.

Notwithstanding these mountains in general
are composed of various strata, there are several
that are uniform ; some are entirely calcareous,
others are of gypsum, of granite, of freestone, of
quartz, of basaltes, of lava, and other volcanic
substances; while, as Ulloa justly observes,
some appear to consist entirely of shells, scarcely,
if at all, decomposed. But all these homo-
geneous mountains are barren, and produce
only a few languid shrubs, while the stratified
mountains, which are covered with a depth of
cultivable soil, are always clothed with a plen-
tiful and vigorous vegetation.

The exterior of the stratified mountains like"
wise furnishes a proof of their formation by
the ocean. Their bases are almost always
very extensive, heightening progressively and
forming various valleys, whose inflections
are correspondent to the undulation of the
Avavcs. On examining the valleys, their orp:ani-
zation is readily p<'iceived to be the same with
iiint of the stratified mountains: similar ma-

53

terials, and a like disposition of them, are found
every wherCj though, in general, more pulver-
ized or reduced to earth.

The variety of fossils with which the earth
abounds, must necessarily add to the value of
this delightful country ; and although at present
(he precious metals appear to attract the sole
attention and regard of the inhabitants, there
will doubtless be a time when, stimulated by
science, they will apply themselves to the dis-
covery of various minerals not less worthy of
attention.

Sect. VI. Earths. — If Nature has been pro-
digal of the precious metals to Chili, she has
not been sparing in the variety of its earths.
Under different modifications, I have discovered
both the argillaceous, the calcareous, the sandy,
and the mineral. It contains all the kinds of
clay described by Linnsus and Wallerius, ex-
cepting the flesh-coloured clay, or terra lemnia ;
but, in place of this, I have met with five other
kinds that appear to me to be entirely distinct
from those of Linnaeus.

The first of these is the clay of Buccari,
(argilla Buccarina). It is a species of bolar
earth found in the province of St. Jago. It is
very fine and light, of an agreeable smell,
and of a brown colour spotted with yellow
dissolves readily in the mouth, and like all

e3

54

those kinds of earth, adheres strongly to the
tongue. In many of the convents of the
capital, the monks manufacture from this clay,
jars, b*,ttles, cups, and several other articles of
beautiful ware, which they varnish and paint
very handsomely, on the oulside, with the figures
of plants ai.d animals.

These vessels communicate a very pleasant
smell and flavour tothe water that isputintothem,
which undoubiedly proceeds froin the solution of
some bituminous substance contained in the clav.
But as no appearance of bitLimen is perceptible
in the vicinity of the pits from w hence it is pro-
cured, its qualities can only be ascertained by
analyzation. Considerable quantities of this ware
are exported, to Peru and Spain, where it is
held in great estimation, and known b} the name
of Bucaros. The Peruvians eat the broken
pieces of these vessels as the natives of Indostan
do those of Patna,

The second kind is the clay of Maule (argilla
Maulica). This clay is as white as snow,
smooth and greasy to the toucli, ex;remely fine,
and sprinkled with brilliai/t specks. It is found on
the borders of rivers and brooks in the province of
Maule, in strata which run deep into the ground,
and i(s surface when seen at a distance has the
appearance of ground covered with snow, and is
so unctuous ai;d slippery that it is almost im-
possible to walk upon it without falling. It

55

(Iocs not effervesce with acids, and instead of
losing in the the anj portion of its shining
wJiitenesSj it a'-finires a slight degree of trans-
})arency. From its external appearance, when I
fust saw tills clay, I supposed it a kind of
fuller's earth very common in the country ; but
I af:erwards discovered that it was not lamellous,
was easily wrought, and retained the form
tliat was given it, and, although saponaceous to
the touch, did not foam with water. These cir-
cumstances induce me to believe that this clay
is very analogous to the kaolin of the Chinese,
and that combined with fusible spar, of which
there are great quantities in the same province,
it would furnish an excellent porcelain.

The third species is the subdola (argilla
subdola) so called from the places where it is
found, which are usually marshes, containing
pits very dangerous for animals, especially horses,
\s\w, if they fall in them, are sure to perish
unless immediate assistance is obtained. This
clay is black, viscous, and composed of c«arse
particles of various sizes ; the ])its are from
hfteen to tv^enty feet in circumference, and of an
immense depth. Walleruis and Linnaeus de-
MTii)e a clav, found in Sweden, that has resem-
blance to this, to which they have given the
name \.^^ aV2,illa tumcscciu, but on investigation it
appears to be very diirer(Mit botli in its colour
a ;d properties. The Chilian clay is a little

E 'i

56

alkalescent, continues in the same state through-
out the year, and is constantly^ covered with a
very fine verdure that attracts the animals, who
are frequently mired and perish in it; while
that of Sweden inclines to an acid, swells much
in certain seasons, and is naturally barren.

The fourth kind is the rovo (argilla rovia)
from which the inhabitants procure an excellent
black ; it is used in dying* wool, and represented
by Feuille and Frazier as superior to the best
European blacks. This clay is of a very fine
grain, of a deep black, a little bituminous, and
very vitriolic. It is found in almost all the
forests, and has the property of communicating
to pieces of wood that are buried in it for a short
time, a sort of black varnish, very shining and
durable. The colour is obtained by boiling the
clay with the leaves of a plant called the pankc
tinctoria, hereafter described.

They grey clay, which is the fifth species,
posseses all the properties requisite for pottery.
It appears to be of a kind suitable for retorts,
crucibles, &c. as the vessels that I have seen of
it are very strong, and capable of resisting the
most violent fire.

Among the calcareous earths is a kind of lime
or gravelly chalk, found in the Cordilleras, in
quarries of many miles in extent, and of a depth
hitherto unexplored. I have given it the name
of volcanic lime (calx vulcanica) as I am con-

57

Tinced it was originally marble reduced to this
state by volcaneos or subterranean fires. Its
surface appear to have been burnt, and the
surrounding mountains afford unequivocal proofs
of an extinguished volcano.

This substance is distinguished from common
lime by several particulars : it is not so caustic
even when burnt; and, when mixed with acids,
effervesces but slightly, and deposits a neutial
salt of a very irregular crystallization. The
only use to which this lime is applied by the in-
habitants is to whitevrash their houses. It is
of two kinds, one perfectly white and easily re i
ducible to an impalpable powder, found in the
mountains of Cajchagua and Maule ; he other,
which is of a yellow hue, but become; paler and
discoloured with age, is brought from the pro-
vince of Chilian.

The metallic earths or chalks, discovered in
Chili, are the mountain green and blue,
native ceruse, lapis caliminaris, brown, yellow,
and red ochres; of the laltcr there are two
varieties, one of a pale, and the other of a bright
red like cinnebar ; the last is called QiumcJiu, and
is mentioned by commodore Anson as being
found in great quantities in the island of Juan
Fernandez. Some give it the name of native
minium from its appearance, and its weight
differs very little* from tlsat of red lead ; it is
supposed to have been produced from the calci-

4

58

nation of mines of lead bv subterraneous fires.
The veins of both these ochres run deep into the
ground, and their quality is found to improve in
proportion to' their depth.

Few places in Chili are in reality sandy, or so
covered with sand as to be incapable of vegeta-
tion. But the rivers abound with it, owing to
the constant friction of the pebbles with \Ahich
their beds arc lined, and on their shores all the
various kinds of sand described by naturalists
ni:iy be found. The black sand of Virginia
(arena micacea nigra) first described by Wood-
ward, is common on the sea shore and on the
banks of several rivers ; it is black and verv
heavy from the quantity of ferruginous particles
it contains. In the same places is also found
another kind, difiering from the former only in
colour, which is a beauliful Prussian blue; for
this reason I have called it the black blue sand
(arena cyanea). Near Talca, the capital of the
province of Maule, is a little hill which fur-
nishes a species of cement sand, known by the
name of Tah:a sand (arena talcensis). This
sand is finer than that of Pnzzoli in Italy, a;^d
appears to be a volcanic production, as its
earthy and ferruginous parts are half calcined.
The inhabitants employ it in their buildings for
those walls which they intend to whiten, as of
itself it forms a verv strone: cement, to wliich
the ]inic adheres firmly.

59

Sect. VII. Stones. — In Chili, a country
whose mineralogy is so imperfectly known, very
few new species of stones Iiavc been discovered;,
in either of the four orders into which naturalists
have divided them. In the short excursions
which my occupations allowed me to make among
the mountains, I have noticed, of the argilla-
ceous kind^ various sorts of schistus, sla(e, talc,
asbestos, and mica. Of the latter the membra-
naceous mica of Chili, oth( rwise called Mus-
covy glass, is found there in its greatest perfec-
tion, both as respects its transparency and the
size of its laminas ; of this substance the country
people manufacture artiticial flowers, and, like
the Russians, make use of it for glazing their
houses. The thin plates which are us^ed for
windows are by many preferred to g^ass^ from
their being pliable and \es fragile, and possess-
ing what appears a pc culiar property, of fi'cely
admitting the light and a view of external ob-
jects to those within, while persons without are
prevented from seeing any thing in tlie house.
It is as white and transparent as tlie best £:lass,
and is frequently found in plates of a foK)t l;>n£»-;
and I am convinced, if a little care was used in
digging it, they might he procured of double
that size. There is a second kind, foi:nd in very
large plates, which i have called /,v/Vyz rarkgata..
It is spotted with yellow, red, and blue; but as it

60

cannot be g,pplied to the uses of the firsts it is of
course held in much less estimation.

Those of the calcareous kind are limestones,
marbles, calcareous spars^ and gypsums. Of the
liaiestones^ there are those that are very compact
and of all colours, the shining red, the coarse
white, the blue, and the grey.

The plain marbles, or those of but one colour^
hitherto discovered in Chili, are the Mhite sta-
tuary marble, the black, the green, the yellow,
and the grey. Two mountains, one in the Cor-
dilleras of Copiapo, and the other in the marshes
of Maule, consist wholly of a marble striped with
bandsof various colours, which have a beautiful
appearance. The variegated marbles are the ash-
coloured with veins of white, yellow, and blue ;
the green speckled with black ; and the yellow
with irregul.ir spots of green, black, and grey.
This last is found at St. Fernando, the capital
of Calchagua ; it is in high estimation, is easily
wrought, and becomes harder from exposure to
the air. The Chilian marbles are generally of
an excellent quality, and take a fine polish.
Several who have examined the interior Andes,
have informed me that those mountains abound
with marbles of various kinds, and of almost
all colours; but their ohservations were too
superficial to ailbrd me a correct description.

In the plains near the %'ity of Coq[i|imbOj at

61

the depth of three or four feet^ is found a
white testaceous marble, somewhat granulated.
It is filled with shells of the snail kind, more or
less entire, which give it the appearance of shell
work. The quarry is several miles in extent,
and generally about two feet in thickness, but
varying according to the number of strata, which
are from five to eight, frequently interrupted by
very thin layers of sand. These strata increase
in hardness in proportion to their depth ; the
upper consists wholly of a coarse brittle stone,
which is only proper for lime; but the marble
of the others is very compact^, requires but little
labour to dig, and after a short exposure to the
air, obtains a degree of solidity and firmness
sufficient to resist the injuries of the weather.

Spar, a substance common to all metallic
mines, and which often serves as a guide to the
miners to determine the character of the ore,
abounds in Chili, where all the known species have
been discovered, excepting the crystal of Iceland.
Of these species the varieties arc infiiiite, and
many of them, if examined attentively, mi£ht
be found to be real and distinct species. Co-
loured spar, known by the nanics of false ems-
raid, topaz, and sapphire, is one of the speci"?
most frequently met with. But tb.e mf^st cu-
rious of all the Chilian spars is one of an hex-
ai>;o.!al forr.!, and perfectly tianspircnt; it is
found in the gold mine of Quiilata, and is

62

crossed in various directions by very fine golden
filaments^ which give it a most beautiful appear-
ance.

Quarries of the common or parallelopipedal
gjpsum^ the rhoniboidal^ and the striated are
numerous in Chili. But the inhabitants make lit-
tle use of either^ preferring a species of gjpsum,
of a beautiful white a little inclining to blue,
•which is very brittle and composed of small ir-
regular particles ; it is always found in the vi-
cinity of volcanoe3_, in a semi-calcined state,
from whence I have denominated it the volcanic
gypsum (gypsum volcanicum.) The quarries
from whei.ce it is procured are of great extent ;
it is principally employed for plaistering walls^
to which its slight tint of blue gives a very
agreeable appearance; it may be used in its na-
tive statCj but the masons generally prepare it by
a slight calcination. The Andes abound with
quarries of Hue alabasicr, and a species of pcl-
li!cid Sv'lcnitG^ which is used by the inhabitants
of St. Jago instead of glass for the windows of
their churches.

Of tlie sandstone there arc various kinds the
v.hctstone, dint, quartz, arid rock crystal. The
first conuins three; varieties, tlic vvhite, the groy,
and the yellow ; the njill or gtindstonc, and the
freestone, wlncli likewise belong to the same
class, are very common in Chili. The mountains
contain great quantities cf quartz, both the

63

opake, the pellucid, and that of different colours,
as well as ronnnoa flint, and seveial species of
agate. Of the plain jaspers there are the fine
red, the green, the grey, tlie white, and the true
lapis lazuli ;* and among* the variegated, the
grey spotted with black, the whitish interspersed
with yellow and blue, and the yellow marked
with blue, red, and grey spots. Besides the
pieces of rock crystal found in all parts of the
country, blocks of it are obtained from the Cor-
dilleras of a size sufficient for columns of six or
seven feet in height. They also contain great
quantities of coloured crystals, or spurious pre-
cious stones, resembling in appearance rubies,
jacinths, diamonds, &c. Not many years since,
a real topaz of a very large size was found in
the province of St. Jago, and a beautiful eme-
rald at Coquimbo. From time to time the rivers
wash down v. ith their sands various kinds of
precious stones, particularly rubies and sapphires,

* III the plains of C;)niapo, are also ;^rcut i^uiuititios of
lokidstoue, iiiut of la.;!) lazuli, \s;iit}! the iiil;ab;!.;nts consiiJor
as of no value. Ti;ese mines are at I'le distiuico of foarU ea
or rtfloen loajriie?, from Coolap.), and in t!;e v'oiiiity of a tr>-.:'t
of coiuitry aboiiaJiii^j in luiat's of leac'.. — rruziir's f^-Ji^^f,
vol. i.

7";e ////f,-. toxuil, accor.iir.'g tr, ihi' n'nnh'.m of in-: lest in-
foimcd //ii/L'-Tul'i^^isl:-, Ldono^ ii, the ij^/iu^ 'f zculi.tes. — Fr,

TiUlli.

64

which^ though small and of little value, fully
prove that the mountains producing them con-
ta'n those that are of great worth. Bui the in-
dolence of the inhabitants,, which induces them
to neglect many other important branches of com-
merce, has hitherto prevented them from attend-
ing to this, notwithstanding it might become of
the utmost importance.

A little hill at the north-east of Talca, con-
sists almost entirely of amethysts. Some are
fv.und enclosed in a grey quartz, which serves
them for a matrix, and others isolated among the
sand. They are more perfect both in colour and
hardness in proportion to their depth, and were
those who search for them to dig deeper, they
would, most probably, discover them in the high-
est state of perfection. A short time before I
left Chili, I saw some that were of a beautiful
violet, and w ould cut glass repeatedly without
injuring their points. Among them were a few
of as fine a water as the diamond, and perhaps
thcv may serve as precursors to that most valu-
able gem. Thev are so abundant, that in some
of the crevices of the rocks, those of a fine pur-
ple may be discovered at almost every step.

The province of Copiapo owes its name, ac-
cordir\g to the Indian tradition, to the great
quantity of turquoises found in its mountains*
Tliough thc-c stones ought, with propriety, to
le clasicd among the concretions, as they are only

65

the petrified teeth or bones of animals;, coloured
by metallic vapours, I have thought proper to
mention them here, as they are placed by many
among the precious stones. The turquoises of
Copiapo are usually of a greenish blue, some,
however, are found of a deep blue, which are
very hard, and known by the name of the tur-
quoises of the old rock.

Mixed stones, of those formed by the combi-
nation of several heterogeneous substances, are
here, as elsewhere, the most numerous, and form
a considerable portion of the Chilian moLuitains.
Beside the common stones of this class, various
kinds of porphyry and granite of the first qua-
lity arc constantly met with ; and the skirts of
the mountains bordering the high road across
the Andes to Cujo, consist wholly of red, green,
black, and other coloured porphyries. Among
these is one which deserves particular attention ;
it is yellow, spotted with red and blue, and from
its being found in the neighbourhood of the river
Chili, I have given it the name of saxur-i
Chllense.

In the plains near the coiifluence of t-ie Rio-
claro, a large quarry of brovrU porphyry with
black spots has been discovered. It ii disposed
in strata of two feet broad and four incbef, thick,
a proportion M'hich hitherto has been found inva-
riable ; and notwithstanding the layers arc fre-
quently broken by crevices or some foreign sub-

VOL. I. F

66

stance, pieces have been procured of more than
eight feet in length. These pieces are so even
and smooth, that they are used by the painters
to grind their colours upon, without any prepa-
ration. It is not easy to account for the arrange-
ment and regular formation of this stone; the
earth in the environs is composed of sand, clay
or rnarle, and between the layers only is a
coarse sparry or quartzcous sand to be found.

In the plains, and upon most of the mountains,
are to be seen a great number of flat circular
stones, of five or six inches in diameter, with a
hole through the middle. These stones which
are either granite or porphyry, have doubtless
received this form by artificial means, and I am
induced to believe that they were the clubs or
maces of the ancient Chilians, and that the holes
were perforated to receive the handles.*

Sect. VIII. Sails. — That part of the Andes
rorrcapoiuiing with the provinces of Copinpo
and Coqiiip-ibo, contains several mountains of
fo^-isil silt, di-:persed in strata or layers, crystal-
lized in transpdi-ent cubes, frequently coloured

* The no.t'ion'! of the South Sea hiands, discovered hy Cap-
tain Cook, have auiong then in-ahons clubs of a similar far r-
to what our author sjipposfs these to have been. — Fr. Trims.

Aii\ ^ii;!j.'0 '.vouM be lu'tter Ua' t!ie Jiead of a mace than tlie
flat circle. Is it iiot more likely that lliis was a missile wea-
pea, i^oiihr to the chuckra of the Hindoos 1 — E. E.

67

with yellow^ blue, and red. The surface gene-
rally consists of an argillaceous earth. This salt
is excellent^ but it is used only by such as live
in the vicinity ; as those who are at a distance
prefer the sea salt, which is obtained in great
quantities, and of a fine quality upon the coast,
particularly at Bucalemu, Boycruca, and Vichu-
quen. In the middle districts, however, the salt
from the springs of Pehuenchcs, which I have
already mentioned in treating of mineral waters,
is most generally used.

Sal-ammoniac, either incrusted or in a state of
efflorescence, is very common in many parts of
Chili. It is also found of various colours, in a
fossil state, in the vicinity of volcauces, of wiiich
it appears to be a production.

Much of the marly ground in the neiglibonr-
hood of the city of Coquiinbo is covered vvith a
crust of some inches of crystallized nitic, Vtith
a base of fixed alkali.*"

In other parts of the same province this salt is
found with a calcareous base; but we must n;>t
consider as nitre all the salts which the inhabit-
ants represent as such, foi' the natron is likewise
fjund there, or e-irthy alkaline salt, combined
with sea salt, and sometimes with the volatile

* Nor is salii'etie less common ther..', v,hich is fiequ£j;liy
twiiii.l in llie valleys an inch tiiick upon ll;e surface of iLe
ei'.lih. — frazi.r's yoyji^e, vol. i.

1 £

68

alkali, to which thej improperly give the name
of nitre.

Besides common alum, and that called the
plumed,* which are found in many parts of Chili,
a semi-crjstallized aluminous stone has been
discovered in the Andes. This stone, called by
the inhabitants i-)olcura, is brittle and of a pale
white, of a very fine grain and a vitriolic taste;
its external appearance is like that of white mar-
ble, but it contains no calcareous particles, nor
is it in reality any thing but a clay saturated with
vitriolic acid, analagous to the aluminous stone
of Tolfa. It is useful in dying, and the quar-
ries from whence it is procured comprehend a
space of many leagues among the mountains,
which also afford another stone in some measure
resembling it, but coarser and of much less
value. Its yellow hue, and the quantity of sul-
phur and pyrites it contains, distinguish this last
from the real polcura, which is very pure, and
not combined with any metallic substance.

The four principal kinds of vitriol, the green
or 'won, the blue or copper, the white with a
zinc base, aiul the mixed, are found in a stalactite
or crystallized state as well as that of efflorescence
in the mines, and even isolated in difl'erent earths ;
the metallic substances which produce it being,

* This name is given to a species of talc, coiinsllng of ft hi'
yncnts, otherwise called the asbestos i/o«e.—Dictioniiiiire do
1 "Academic.

69

under dilFcrent modiiicaiions^ dispersed tluougli'
out the country.

Sect. IX. Bitumens. — The Andes, heated by
subterraneous fires^ produce in many places white
and red naphtha^ petroleum, asphallos, and mi-
neral pitch of two kinds, the common, and
another of a bluish blacky which when burnt ex-
hales an agreeable odour like amber. This bi-
tumen, which I believe to be condensed naphtha^
I have named bitumen andinumj and it is perhaps
only a variety of the Persian mummy. It is not
uncommon, and is discovered in larg-e quantities
in those places that produce it. Jet is very plen-
tiful in the Araucaniau provinces ; and near the
city of Conception, and in various other parts of
Chili, pit-coal is found in great abundance.^

Considerable quantities of ambergris arc thrown
up by the sea upon the Araucanian coa=t and the
islands of Chiloe. The Indians call it mciienc
(the cxcrementf of whales ) and pretend that when

* The mountains in the neighbourhood of the Puelches af-
ford mines of sulphur and of salt; aiid in Talcaguano, Iro«
'juin, and even in the city of Cf)nrcpti()n, several good mines
')f coal have hecu discovered at \\\n df'|)th (»f one or two feet
iVoui the surface.— F7a.r,RT'5 Foyagc, vol. i.

t Tlie Bra/ihan Indians helievcd it to be the food of
the wluile, whirh had been vomited. These opinions ter.d
.-trongly to ronliini the received theor\ that it is the il!-di'je>tcd
food uf tiii^ auiaial. — E. E.

70

it is first tlirov/a up it is black, that it next be-
comes brown, and after a long exposure to the sun
acquires a grey colour. Pieces of yellow amber
are occasioiially found upon the shores, which
prove that Chili contains also this valuable pro-
duction. In the province of Copiapo, one of
the richest parts of the world in minerals^ are
two little mountains almost entirely composed of
the most beautiful crystallized sulphur, so pure
that it does not require refining.* And there is
scarce a valley in the Andcs^ but what contains a
reservoir of this mineral.

Sect. X. Pyrites. — The whole territory of
Chili is sown with pyrites. They are of different
qualities and shapes, and discovered at various
depths, frequently in groupes, but more usually
in veins varying in extent and thickness. They
most generally accompany metals of some kind,
and arc found both in veins of ore, in chalk,
clay, and common stone, but rarely in quartz or
in rock crystal.

In the three divisions, ur.der which they may
be classed, the iron, the copper, and the arsenic,

* On t'le liislirid.sc of tlie Cordillera?, forty leagues south-
r-ist from the haiboiir of Copiupo, are the he-,t mines of sul-
phur. It i.s procured, from veins about two feet wide, iu a
state so pure as to require no refjuin;^'. — Fra:iers Voyage,

71

they present themselves willi such different mo-
difications, that a particular enumeration and
description of theiri would require a volume.
The most remarkable species of those that I have
seen, is the auriferous pyrites, generally denomi-
nated the Inca stone. M. Bomare, in his Dic-
tionary of Natural History, observes, that this
stone is very rare, and found only in the tombs of
the ancient Peruvians. This may perhaps be
the case in Peru, but it is otherwise in Chili,
vi^here it is found in great quantities upon the
Campana, a high mountain in the province of
Quillota, and is known by the same name. Thi-
pyrites is of a cubical ligure, and contains «
mixture of gold and cojiper mineralized with
sulphur. It emits but a very few sparks with
the steel, a circumsfance v, iiich distinguishes it
from all other species.

Sfxt. XT. Semi'inctaU.. — All tlje known \:\u^\>
of semi-metals are met with in Chili, and ar?
found cither in mines by tliemselves, or coinbiiu-d
with metallic ores, and generally in a 'iinic of
mineralization. But the v.orking them is neg-
lected or prohibited, and anlirnor.y is the only
one sout,ht for, as it is nece!-sarv for refining
i\M:t juccious metals. This mineral is discovered
under various forms, as, the red antimony com •
bined with arsenic and sulpliur, the strialed and
iiiie compact, all of which arc found In mines of

gold^ silver^ iron^ and lead. One mine alone has
furnished crystallized antimony. _^^

The digging- of quicksilver is rigorously pro-^P
hibited in consequence of its being a royal mono-
poly. It is found in a metallic form^ or mineral-
ized with sulphur^ under that of cinnabar. The
two richest mines are in the provinces of Coquim-
bo and Copiapo, from whence vast quantities
might be obtained if it were; permitted to work
them, the greater part of wtich would proba-
bly be sold in the country itself, as much is re-
quired for the amalgamation of the precious
metals. The mine of Coquimbo is in one of the
midland mountains. The bed of matrix of the
quicksilver is a species of brownish clay, or a
very brittle black stone; in this the quicksilver
is found in great abundance in its natural state,
in horizontal veins, occasioiially intersecied by
mineralized mercury or cinnabar. Thatof Quil-
lota is situated in a very high mountain near hi-
mache, and appears to l)C as rich as the former.
The quicksihcr is mineralized with sulphur: its
matrix is a calcareous stone, ^^hich would serve
very v.ell, as an intermediate suhsfaiirc, to retain
tlse si;]'^;luir, if the mercury wore lo be separated
fiom it by a chemical process.

SiiCT. Xll. Mclals.— The Chilians set little
value upon lead mines, although they possess
tl:o:^c that are of an excellent ouality. Ni>

^3

more of this metal is dug than what is wanted in
the foundries for the melting of silver, or is
employed for domestic purposes. Lead is not
only found in all the silver mines^ hiiij in cubes
of various sizes with the galena or black lead,
in mines of pure ore^ or intermixed with spar of
different colours. All the lead mines contain
eitlier gold or silver^ but in too small a quantity
to excite the attention of the miners. The
mines of tin^ although excellent;, are equally
neglected with those of lead. This ore is
usually found in sandy mountains^ not like
other metals in continued veins^, hut under the
appearance of black stones^ very brittle and
heavvj of an unequal size and irregular shape.
In this statCj the tin contains a small portion of
iroU;, mineralized with a little arsenic. Crystals
of tin, of various colours^, are also common
throughout Chili.

M. de Pauwj with a dash of his pen, has
driven out of this country all its iron mines,
since he boldly asserts that '' Chili does not
contain a single mine of iron/' But Frazier,
and otiier writers who have been in that country^
declare the contrary.*

♦ *' In elder tlip more to depreciate America, Pauw asseil--,
that there are but lew iron mines in that quarter of the
world. And, uhat is still more sin!j;ular, that the iron pro-
cured from tlieiu is of very inferior quality to that of the old
continent, so much that it u ill doI aus-vev even for nails : and

■74

So plentiful is this metal in the country;, that,
as i have already observed^ the brooks and rivers
deposit great quantities of sand^, replete w'lih.
partieles of iron upon their shores^, the sea also
washes it up at times in great abundance.

The provinces of Coquimbo^, Copiapo^, Acon-
cagua^ and liuilquilcmU;, are very rich in mines of
iron ; it is found under various appearances^ as
a black, a grey compact ore, or crystallized in
bluish cubes. From the essays that have been
made, the iron of these mines is of the very
best quality; but the working of it is prohi-
bited, in order to favour the trade of Spain, from
whence all the iron used in the country is brought.
But during the last war between England and
Spain, v,'hen iron was at an exorbitant price, seve-
ral quintals v. ere secretly wrought; which proved
to be of a superior quality. The Araucanian

that, in consequence, it is so dear as to be sold in Peru at li;c
rate oi" a crown, and steel at a crown and a half lor the
pound \vei2;ht."

The iron, iiowcver, so ninch decried by this author, wlio
supposes it to be American, is what is imported from Europe.
But supposins; hi . assertion to be true, for what pur])ose has
the Sj.:inisii government prohibited the working or sellijig any
iroii but liiat wliich is brouglit from Spain 1

" In tile vicinity of Copiapo, be-ides tlie mines of pold,
iheve are n.ar.v of iron, copper, tin, and lead, that arc not
»'.<>:i\erj." Aa:l in the year 1710, ii nunber of iuine= of ■,■11
h.'nds of mo'ial, such a? L'old, silver, iron, lead, copper, a lid
*. •. w'-re (li'Tovercd at I.air.j.a-n'.e , — /''■(•.•.~2V/-'.c f^ova^'", vol. i
J.

75

provinces likewise produce excellent iron^ and I
have been as:^iircdby aninielligcnt Biscayan smith,
that it was no way inferior to tiie best in Spain.
In the same coiiiitry lias likewise been discovered
a species of that mineral substance called rcfrac-
tarias ; and there is scarce a province that does
not contain a mine of load-stone : Frazicr speaks
of a mountain in the Andes^ called St. Agnes^
which is entirely composed of this substance.

If the Chilians have neglected the working of
mines in general^ this cannot be said of those of
gold^ silver^ andcopper^ to which great attention
has been paid, from the conquest to the present
time. The richest mines of the latter are found
betwixt tlie 24tli and 36th degrees of latitude;
the ore obtained from them is of various qualities,
some very fine and some but indifferent. Ulloa,
in speaking of this copper generally^ assigns to it
the second place after that of Corinth, which is
properly considered as an artificial metal.* Al-
most all the copper in Chili contains a greater or
less proportion of gold. This was v,'ell known to the
French, who, in the beginning of thepresent cen-
tury, carried on a profitable commerce with that

* In tlie province of Coqulnibo all kinds of metals are so
common, that it would seem as if the oailh was entirely com-
posed of mineral. In that province are those mines of copper
which supply the consumption of Chili and feru, and althoujli
it is con->ii!ore(l as the best of anv hitherto known, it is di;<r
very 5p;trir;£:;y. — Awxrican Cjaze:uer: •irticle CiiiLi.

v(>

country for copper, great quantities of which
they exported, and extracted the gold from it.
It.e proportions of these metals are very various^
there are some copper ores which contain a tenths
and others a third part of 2:okl : but in these
cases both substances are found in a metallic
state^ without having been mineralized.

The copper ores, containing but little or rg
gold, are usually mineralized with arsenic or
suiphur, sometimes with both, and mixed with
iron and silver. Thev are found under the
forms of vitreous and hepatic ore, of ultra-
marine stone, and of malachite and white copper
ore. These several ores are rich in metal, but,
from the expense of refining them, they are
considered as of no value. The ores that are
wrought are but two kinds, the grey or bell
metal, and the malleable copper. The grey ore,
or bell metal, is usually mineralized with arsenic
and sulphur ; it contains no c;old or other metal,
except a small porfion of tin.--- From this mix-
ture and its grey colour, whicli it retains even
after having hi^zn incited and refined, it may be
considered us a species of native bronze; it
has another characteristic of that factitious
metal in its britllcnes-, altliough its specific gra-

If the author has £ivcn an arcuro.te description of this
metal, it ii of a very sir^rular spcdrs, and notJang similar to
it has Ice'i discovered in Oie viina of Enrobe. ^,X\> 'VxaW'^.

77"

viiy, is much greater than that of the metals
composing it, when artificially combined. This
brittleness renders it unfit for any thing but the
casting of cannon, bells, &c.

Large quantities of this metal are sent to Spain ^.
for the use of foundries, whence M. Bomare
has been led to observe, in his Dictionary of
Natural History, that the copper of Coquimbo
is of little value. The matrix of this ore is a
grey sandy stone, easily broken ; and the relative
proportions of the copper to the tin vary consi-
derably.

The malleable copper is found in many of the
other provinces as well as Coquimbo ; it possesses
every quality requisite in that metal, and is
the species from whence the Chilian copper has
principally derived its high reputation. Its ma-
trix is a soft brown and sometimes white stone ;
the ore, which is mineralized with a small portion
of sulphur, 'fn its appearance and ductility resem-
bles native copper, a simple roasting being suffi-
cient to expel the sulphur, and render it mallea-
ble and fit for use. The miners, however, re-
fine it in the usual manner, as they pretciid that
by this means it acquires a brii;liter colour.
Tliere is a remarkable aiiiniiv bdv.c;^n this copper
and gi)ld ; t!io?e metals are no( oiA\ uiways found
coni))ined, but veiiii of pure ^old ;ire frequently
met with in the ilcepest copj)er mijits. lu this
cir<:umstauce Ikis crip-inatcu j!;e error of raanv

78

miners^ who assert that copper^ when it extends
fo a certain depthj becomes transmuted into gold.
The veins do not always preserve the same course,
and are frequently divided into small ramifica-
tions ; and there is a still greater diversity in their
gangues or matrices. A great number of mines
have been opened^ but those only are worked
whose ore is so rich as to yield at least one half
its weight in refined copper ; those of a less pro-
duct having been relinquished as too expensive ;
notwithstanding which^ between the cities of
Coquimbo and Copiapo, there are now inwork
more than a thousand mines, besides those in the
province of Aconcagua.

The most celebrated copper mine in Chili was
the old mine of Payen, but the working of it
has been for many years relinquished, in conse-
quence of the opposition of the Puelcbcs, who
inhabit that district.* On its first discover

* Mines of copper are very frequent in the vicinity of Co-
qr.inibu, "at three leagues distiinee to the uorth-east of that
city. It is also said, that mines of iron and of quicksilver
are found there. — Frazicrs Voyage, vol. i.

All the parts of the Cordilleras near St. Jago and Concep-
tion abound in copper mines, and particularly a ]>lacc called
Fayen, some of which were formerly vvrougi^t, and pieces cf
pure copper of fifty and a liundred quintals weight cbtahied
from them. — Avierican Gazellcer; article CniLI.

Anioii'r the mountains of llie Cordilleras a sreat number of
jnitits of all kinds of metals and minerals are to be met with,
pujticulariy in two ridge*-', distant only twelve leagues from the

79

this mine furnished pepitas, or pieces of pure
copper, from fifty to a hundred weightj which
the writers of those times represent as of a beau-
tiful colour resembling pinchbeck, and contain-
ing iu general more than an equal portion of
gold. This metal was so pure and easily sepa-
rated from its matrix, that it required only a
conniion fire to melt it.

A mine has lately been discovered at Curico,
which is as rich as that of Payen. The ore
consists of gold and copper in equal proportions,
and the inhabitants have named it natural avan-
turiiie,* from its being filled with brilliant par-
Pampas (or irreat plains) of Paraguav, and a hundred from
Conception ; in one of which have been discovered mines of
copper so jjioduciive that they have yielded pieces of pure
ore of a hundred quinlals u eight. To one of these spots,
which the IiuHans call Payen, that is copper, the discoverer,
Don Juan INIe'.cndez, gave the name of St. Joseph. I saw at
Conception a piece of ore of fortv quintals weight, from which,
when smelted., wore cast sis. field pieces of six pounds caliber.
And nothing is unue coninion than to i^ieet with stones com-
posed partly of pure and partly of impure co})per. which has
gi\cn rise to the observation, t!iat the soil of this country is crea-
tive ; that i'^, tliat cupper is couhLantiv procluced or cieatedin
it. T!ie same mountain coulaiiis mines of lanis lazuii, and the
other which is near it, called hy the Sjaru'ardi Cerro de Santa
Inis, is pjiticu'.arly remarkable for i^rcal qiianlit its of load-
stons, of wiiieli it appears to be euti;^;_\ co;:';;ostd — Frazicr's
yoi/age, vol. i.

' A precious stone of a yellowish coiou'; fuii of sinu;! speck?
of gold.

so

tides that give it a beautiful appearance. This
metal is used by the goldsmiths for rings^ brace-
lets, and other ornaments of jewelry.

In the province of Huilquilemu are hills that
furnish a copper ore combined with zinc, or a
real native brass. It is found in pieces of various
sizes, and the matrix is a brittle earthy stone of
ayellow colour, or a dull green. This substance,
which has hitherto been obtained only by arti-
ficial means, probably owes its formation to
subterraneous fires, which sublimating the zinc,
and combining it with the copper, has produced
this extraordinary natural mixture. It is of a
fine yellow colour, and as malleable as the best
artificial brass, and is called Laxa copper, from
the river of that name in the vicinity of themine.

The method of melting the ore is very simple :
After separating it from the earth and super-
fluous matrix, it is broken into small pieces with
wooden pestles. These pieces arc placed between
layers of wood, which are set on fire, and the
heat kept up with a large bellows moved by
water. The furnace is constructed of an ad-
hesive clay; but the bottom, which is slightly
inclined towards the centre, is formed of a ce-
ment of plai-:(er and calcined bones. The vault
contains a sufficient number of outlets for the
smoke, and at the top is an aperture that may
be closed or opened «at pleasure, which serves for
the iiitroduclion of ovc and fur).

81

At the bottom of the furnace is a hole for the
passage of the liquefied metal, which is conveyed
into a receptacle, and from thence taken and re-
fined in the European manner.

[ do not know what quantity of copper is an-
nually obtained from the mines, but from the ex-
portation it must be very considerable. Five or
six ships sail every year for Spain^ each of which
usually carries twenty thousand quintals or up-
wards. Much is also sent to Buenos-Ayres by
land; and the Peruvians, who have an extensive
commerce with the coast, export at least thirty
thousand quintals yearly, which is principally
employed in their sugar works. Besides which,
the quantity made use of in the cannon foun-
dries, and for domestic purposes, is by no means
inconsiderable.

The mines of copper are not confined to any
particular district, but scattered throughout the
country; those of silver, on the contrary, are
found only in the highest and coldest parts of
Hie Andes. This situation, so unfavourable for
working them, and the vast expense of refining,
have caused a great number of mine?, tliojgh rich
in ore, to be abandoned, and there are but tliree
or four that are at present worked. Siit it may
be presumed, when the population of this coun-
try becomes increased and its industry excited,
that these mines, now neglected, will become an

VOL. J, G

object of attention^ and that the enterprise 0^2;*
future generation will conquer those obstruc-
tions which impede the labours of the present.

All the provinces bordering upon the Andes
produce some silver mines, but the richest are
in those of St. Jago, Aconcagua, Coquimbo, and
Copiapo. In these it is found not only in a me-
tallic form, but under the appearance of vitreous
ore, hornbend, and red, grey and white ore.»
wherein the silver is mineralized with sulphur
and arsenic, and it is occasionally found com-
bined w ith other mefals. In the year 1767, a
piece of silver ore was found in the neighbour-
liood of Copiapo ; it was of a green colour,
and, on being assayed, was found to contain
three-fourths of pure silver. It was mineral-
ized with a small quantity of sulphur, and
much search has since been ineffectually made by
the inhabitants to discover the vein from which
it was detached.

The ore held in the highest estimation by tho
miners is the black, so called from its matrix
being of a dark colour, 'lliose of them who
are experienced are scarcely ever deceived in thi*
-ore, and whenever they strike upon a new vein
can nearly determine by the eye the quantity of
silver which it will yield. This ore presents
three very distinct varieties, though difiering but
little in appearance. The first, called ncgrillo^

S3

resembles the scoria of iron, and affords no ap-
parent indication of silver. The second, the ros-
ciclaro, which is distinct from the red silver ore,
yields a red powder when filed; it is very rich,
although its external appearance is not promising.
The third, thfe piombo ronco, is the richest of
all; as it is mineralized with a very small quan-
tity of sulphur, it is much more easily separated
than the others, which require a more laborious
and complicated operation.

These three varieties of ore are obtained from
the mine of Uspallata, the largest and richest
of any of the silver mines in Chili. It is situated
upon the eastern mountains of that portion of
the Andes which forms a part of the province of
Aconcagua. On the top of these mountains is a
large plain called Uspallata of more than seven-
teen leagues in length and three in breadth, it is
watered by a pleasant river and covered with de-
lightful groves, the air is healthy and temperate,
and the soil fertile. This plain serves as a base
to another more elevated, called Paramillo, upon
which the Andes of the first rank rise to such a
height as to be seen distinctly at St. Louis de la
Punta, a distance of one hundred and tvvcnty
leagues. The ridge of these immense mountains
is a blackish clay stone, containing a great num-
ber of round stones similar to thoic of rivers.
This phenomenon appears to be uiiexplainable
g2

84

in any other way but on the principle of a general
deluge ; though some authors have^ ridiculously
enough, accounted for it, by supposing that the
ancient Indians amused themselves in throwing
these stones upon this mass, while it was yet soft
and in a state of clay. But besides the irration-
ality of such a conjecture, the Abbe Morales of
Cujo, an intelligent naturalist, who carefully ex-
amined these mountains, affirms that the interior
©f this mass is no less filled with these stones
than the exterior, which of itself atfords a suf-
ficient proof to the contrary.

The mine of Uspallata extends along the base
of the eastern mountains of the plain of the same
name, from the thirty-third degree of latitude^
in a direct northerly course ; but the termination-
of it is unknown, for I have been assured, by
persons who have followed it for thirty leagues,
that it continues to be equally abundant at that
distance, and there are those who assert that it is
a ramification of the celebr^.ied mine of Potosi.
The principal vein is nine feet in breadth, but
it branches out upon both sides into several that
arc smaller, wliich extend to the neighbouring
sQiountaiii?, and are said to exceed thirty miles in
length. The matrix of the c-reat vein is a
varior.s-coloured earlh, wiiich separates it into
five parallel divisions ur layers, of diiferent thick-
liesses. Tlie middle layt-r is but two inches tbick ;
the Oj>v '.nIu.-Ii is r;;llcJ by the miners the guidti,-

«5

is black;, but 9,0 filled with meialllc partlcks as
^o have a ^vhitish appearance ; the two next
.strata are brovvn^ and arc caWedjnfilerias, the two
<;xterior ones are of a dark gre\% and known by
the name of brozas. Although the £;eneral di-
rection of tills Ycin is horizontal, it sometimes
runs perpendicular, and is found to increase in
richness in proportion to its depth. From assays,
which have been made at Lima on the ore of
Uspallata^, it appears that the guida yields more
than two hundred marks of silver the caxo?i ;*
the pint arias, mixed with the guida, fifty ; and
the Z^roca^' fourteen ; a produce not inferior to
that of the mine of Potosi. The mine of Us-
pallata was discovered in the year 16.38, but
although on its first discovery it furnished the
strongest indications of its wealth, from want of
labourers, or some other cause, it was neglected
until IT60, but since that period has been con-
stantly wrought with immense profit.

Before the arrival of the Europeans, the In-
dians employed a very simple method to sepa-
rate the silver from the ore, especially when the
metal was in a metallic form, and not niineruiized

• A term nuub unc of by tlie American ni-etallurgisfs to ex-
press the cjur.nlit) ot" ore which a single miner cuu dig in a
(luy, usuallv cLilcLihited at fifty quintals ; hut, as tliis quaniity
Contains mure or less of the matrix, it is imposible to ascer-
tain the amount of pure ore contained in eacii caxon.

S6

or combined with other substances. This method
consisted in merely exposing the ore to a degree
of heat capable of melting tbe metal which it
contained. When the ore was united with othey
substances, or miner alized^ and of course mor^
difficult to be melted^ they made use of a kind
of open furnace^ constructed upon elevated
ground^ in order that the fire should be kept up
by a constant current of air. This appears to
have been adopted with a view to save labour^ as
they were not unacquainted with the use of the
bellows,, which was known to them under the
name of pimahue; and even at present this mode
is preferred by the poorer class, who practice it^
and no small part of the silver, employed as a
circulating medium in Chili, is obtained from
these clandestine foundries.

The process generally pursued, particularly
by the wealthy proprietors, is that of amalgama-
tion,* In this case they begin with reducing

* Almost all Ihe precipitous and broken grounds of Chili
con'aiu gold in greater or le^s quantities ; the surface of the
earth in which it is found is gcuerall^r of a reddish colour and
soft to the touch.

These lavaderos, or places producing earth which yields
gold by agitating it in water, are very common in Ciiili, hut
the indolence of the Spaniards and the want of labourers
suffer immense treasures to rcjiiain in the earth which might
easily be obtained; but, r^ot satisfied with small gains, they
vork thoj'-' miucs only wiiidi yield a great profit ; of cour»o^

87

■ihe ore to powder by g-rinding it in a mill. This
powder is then passed throug;h a wire sieve and.
spread upon the hides of cattle^ where it is mixed
with sea salt, quicksilver^ and rotten dung. After

whenever any one of this character is discovered, numbers
flock to it from all quarters, as was the case of Copiapo and
Xampiigua, which by this means beccrne peopled so rapidly,
from the great concourse of labourers, that in the space of
two years six mills were established at the latter place. The
city of Conception is situated in a couniry abounding not only
^vith ah the necessaries of life, but wiili immense riches, par-
dcularly a place called the King's Camp, about twelve leagues
to the east, from whence is obtained by the lavadero pieces of
pure gold, called iu the country pepitas, of from eight to ten
marks* in weight. It has likewise been discovered in the vi-
cinity of Angol ; and if the inhalsitants of the country were
industrious, many other sjiots would be explored where it is
be'ieved there are very good lavaderos. Nine or ten leagues
to the east of Coqu:niI)o are the Lavaderos of Audacoll, which
produce gold of '23 carats line, ami are worked constantly
with great profit w hen there is no scarcity of water. This has
given rise to a saving of the inliabitants that the ground is
creative, that is, that gold is continually formed in it ; found-
ed in the circumstance of tiieir fuiding that metal in as great
(Quantities as at fust, although it is sixty or eighty years since
I'nese lavaderos have been worked. Besides the lavaderos,
whicii are in all tlie valleys, so numerous are the mines of gold
^nd some of silver that are mot with in the mountains, that
tliey would turiii'<li euip'oymenl for more than forty thousand
men. — Frazier s ^oj/'ige.

Chili abounds in mines of all kinds, more especially in

* 'Ike Spanish mark is eight ounces.

g4

88

wetting this mixture from time to time, and beat-
ing and treading it well for the space of eight
days, in order to incorporate the silver and the
mercury^ it is put into a stone trough with water
sufficient to dilute it. In this situation, the silver
amalgamated with the mercury, from its weight
sinks to thcbottom,whilethe lighter heterogeneous
particles are drawn off with the water through a
hole in the trough into a vessel placed to receive
it. This amalgam, after having been repeatedly
washed to cleanse it from all foreign substances,
is put into a linen bag, i^nd the mercury, which

those of gold and copper, which are very common. Co-
quimbo, Copiapo, and Guasco have gold mines, the ore of
which is called hy way of distinction, oro capote, as being the
most valuable of any that has hitherto been discovered.-—
ATnerican Gazetteer; article Chili.

These valleys co 'tain, besides mines of silver, those of lead,
(.'cppcr, and quioAsi'ver, and a very great nimiber of gold.
Cf this last there is so much found in the sands of the rivulets,
that a certain author has said that Ciiiii k a composition of f hi§
[■-rccioiis metal. The quantity obtained by Pedro de Valdivia,
who Ciitercd Chili after Almagro, was immense. That general
opened mines of gold which were so rich that each Indiaa
furnjihed from tiiiity to forty ducats daily, as, v/hen only
twelve or fifteen where employed, he obtained three or four
hinidrqJ ducats a day. This concurs with what Garcilasso
si'vs ill hi? history of Peru, that a part of Chili fell to the
lot of V;i;divia, w!io received from his vassals an annual
tiibute of more than one hundred iliousanrl pieces of gold.—.
t>uuion's (©f Abbeville) Geography j article CfiiLl.

89

h&s not become incorporated with the silver, ex~
pressed from it. In this state of paste the
amalgam receives any shape, but is usually
formed with moulds into small cylindrical tubes.
The last process is that of separating the mer-
cury from the silver; this is done, by means of
evaporation, in a receiver which is filled with
water, and closely fitted with a head. The
small quantity of lead or other metal that may
remain after this process can only be detached
by melting it.

Gold, of all the metals, is that which is most
abundant in Chili, and it may be said that there
is not a mountain or hill but contains it in a
greater or less degree ; it is found also in the
sands of the plains,, but more especially in those
washed down by ihe brooks and rivers.* Seve-
ral French and Eiiglish aalhcrs affirm that the
gold of Chili is the purest and most valuable of
any; and it is true that i^s general standard is
from twenty-two to twenty-three » and a half
carats. In tlie southern provinces, between the

* A person, on cpenin^ a \vater-cour!=e to an estate in the
plain of Iluilquilemu, discovered, witi) nmcli surprise, a veia
of gold du-t, which produced more tlian fifty-' hou.«and dollars
withoat (li(j Iciist labour. The same good foitiinc occurred to
another in ploughing a piece of land for grain. These in-
stances are not nnusual ; and uaturaii-ts Ijuvo given the name
of viontas to these kind of casual njines, v.hicb are always of
jiuali extent.

90

river Bio-bio and the Archipelago of Chiloe,
several very rich mines of gold were formerly
discovered, which yielded immense sums ; but
since the expulsion of the Spaniards from those
provinces by the Araucanians,, these mines have
been in the possession of that warlike people^
who have prohibited the opening them anew
by any one under pain of death.

The most important mines that are at present
wrought are those of Copiapo, Guase, Co^
quimbo, Petorca, Ligua^ Tiltil, Putaendo,
Caen, Alhue, Chibato, and Huilli-palagua.
All these, excepting the three last, which are
of recent discovery, have been wrought ever
since the conquest, and have constantly yielded
a great product. But this is by no means the
case with all the mines that are discovered :
in many the miners are allured at first with ap-
pearances of great riches, but soon find the ore
entirelv fail, or in so small quantities as not to
repay them for their labour. The metallurgists
of Chili call this kind of wandering mine bolson;
the same name is also applied to the ramifi-
cations, which in general are circular, and to
the richest veins where the ore is found lodged
in heaps and cavities. Another obstruction to
working the mines are the inundations to which
they are subject from subterraneous spring'^.
These are frequent, and, when they occur,
compel the miners to abandon the mine, wh<i>

91

jseldom attempt to free it by drawing off or di-
verting the water. Some years since an acci-
dent of this kind occurred to the celebrated
mine of Peldehus, in the neighbourhood of
St. Jago. That mine, which produced daily up-
wards of fifteen hundred pounds weight of gold,
was suddenly inundated, and the workmen were
compelled to abandon it, after having in vaia
jaiade every exertion to free it from the water.

The matrix of the gold is very variable, and
it may be said that there is no kind of stone or
earth but what serves it for that purpose. It is
to be seen every where, either in small grains or
]3rilliant spangles, under singular forms, or in
irregu^r masses that may be cut by the chissel.
The most usual matrix is a very brittle red
clay stone. The salbanda, or the exterior co-
vering of the veins, called by miners caxas, is
as variable as the matrix ; it is sometimes of
spar or quartz, at otliers it consists chiefly of
flint, marble, or hornbend. The principal veins
are frequently ramified into a number of smaller
ones that are generally very rich. They some-
times descend almost vertically into the earth,
and in those instances require great labour and
expense to be pursued ; at others they take a
circular direction a few feet under ground, and
meet, particularly at the foot of mountains.
The usual course of the veins, thongh subject
lo some variations^ is from south to north.

92

The mines are worked both with the pickaxe
and by explosion. The ore is reduced to pow-
der in a mill of a very simple construction^,
called trapicJie, of which two stones, the lower
placed horizontally, and the upper vertically,
form the mechanism. The horizontal is about
six feet in diameter, and has near its circumfe-
rence a groove of eighteen inches deep, in which
the ore is placed ; through the centre passes a
perpendicular cylinder c(^nected with a cog-
wheel turned by water. The vertical stone is
about four feet in diameter, and ten or fifteen
inches thick, and is furnished with a horizontal
axis, which permits it to turn freely within the
groove. When the ore is sufficiently pulve-
rized, a proportionate quantity of quicksilver is
added to it, which is immediately amalgamatecj
with the gold ; io moisten the mass, and iuT
corporate it more fully, a small stream of water
is then directed above it, which also serves to
carry off the amalgam into reservoirs placed
beneath the stone. The gold combined with
the mercury falls to the bottom of these reser-
voirs in the form of whitish globules ; the mer-
cury is next evaporated by heat, and the gold
appears in its true colour, and in all its bril-
liancy. In each of these mills upwards of two
thousand weight of ore is daily ground and
amalganjated.

As the digging of the stone ore obtained froni

93

ihe mines is very expensive^ from tlie number of
■workmen and the materials required, it is pur-
sued only by tlic rich ; but it furnishes a mucb
g'reater profit than the lavadero, or the ore pro-
cured bv the washing; of auriferous sands, which
is practised only by the poorer class, and those
who cannot aftbrd the necessary expenses of
mining. The washing is performed in the fol-
h)wing manner : the earth or sand containing
particles of gold is put into a vessel of wood of
liorn^ called poruna, which is placed in a run-
ning stream^ and constantly shaken ; by this
means the sand which contains no metallic
particles, being lighter, is thrown out over the
top, and the more weighty, or the gold,
remains at the bottom. This operation is ne-
cessary to be repeated several times in qrder to
carry off all the ferruginous earth which is
always united with gold. But as many of tlix'5
smaller metallic particles must neccssarih" be
washed away with the earlli by this process, a,
mode, in my opinion, much more economical,
is that empliJycd in some places of v/asairig the
sand upon inclined plankr^) covered wiih sheep-
skin. Defective a-j th-j procG-s of wa-Jiiiii;- is,
(he profit that accrue^ from it is iVeqiiendv
^tlmost iiicrcdible, a.^ it is not unu^LTal to iind
among the ^and large pieces of gc^ii, railed pt-
piias^, which sometimes C-W^erd a pound iu
■=^'eii;;)it ; but it is more coiiimonly found u\ i.

94

pulverized state, and in the form of little round
or lenticular grains. This gold is sold in the
cities in little purses,, inade of the scrotums of
sheep, as in the time of Pliny^ and is generally
more esteemed than that of the mines, as it is
of a better colour and a finer standard.

The quantity of gold arnually dug in Chili
is difficult to be estimated. That called oro-
quintado, which pays the fifth to the royal trea-
sury, does not amount to less tha;n four millions
of dollars, of which there is coined at the mint
of St. JagOj a million and a half; the residue
is exported in bullion, or used in the country for
plate and jewelry. The amount smuggled with-
out paying the duty cannot be calculated, but it
certainly is very considerable. I have made
much search, but without success, to discover
the platina, or white gold, found in Peru,,
What bears the name of white gold in Chili is
a mixture of gold and silver, in which the latter
predominates. But since I left that country a
new inimallcable metal, of a kind unknown to
the miners, has been discovered in the gold
mine of Capati, on the mountains of Copiapo,
which I imagine can be no other than platina.
"^^^ Many obstacles present themselves to impede
tlie working of the mines, both in the danger to
which the miners are exposed from the mephitic
vapours, called mountain fires, and in the vast
expense attending the digging them. The great

number of tools, the timber required for prop-
ping the archeS;, which is very scarce and ex-
pensive in the country, the numerous workmen
who must be paid and subsisted, together with
the uncertainty of the product, are reasons
which operate powerfully to discourage those
who are inclined to engage in mining ; of
course, the number of those who pursue this bu-
siness is very small in comparison to that of the
mines.

When any persons are desirous of opening a
mine, application is made to the government,
which readily grants its permission, and ap-
points an inspector, under whose authority and
direction they begin by dividing the mine into
three equal parts, or estacas, each two hundred
and forty-six feet long and one hundred and
twenty-three broad. The first portion belongs
to the king, in whose name it is sold, the. se-
cond to the awner of the land, and the third to
the discoverer of the mine. As the opening of
a mine is very injurious to the cultivation of the
land in which it is situated, the propiietors of
the soil endeavour to prevent as much as possi-
ple the diiscovefy of veins iu their ground:^.
The number of persons who fiock from ail
quarters to a newly opened mine, tliat promises
to be profitable, is almost incredibie. Some
come thither to work, others to sell their pro-
viiuons, which at such times are iu <';rcat

u'-. •

96

mand ; and in this manner a kind of fair is grif-
dually established, which leads to the erectiod
of houses, and finally to the formation of a per-
manei-.t town or village, A magistrate, with
the title of the Alcajde of the mine, is then ap-
pointed by the government to regulate and su-
perintend it, and as this oi!ice is almost always
very lucrative, ihe governor of the province ge-
nerally assumes it, and appoiiits a deputy to ma-
nage it for his account.

The miners of Chili are in general well ac-
quainted with metallurgy. They are expert in
mining and in the art of assaying and refining
metals ; but their knowledge is wholly practi-
cal, and they are entirely ignorant of the theory
or the real principles of the art. They are di-
vided into three classess, the first those who
labour in the mine, the second the founders and
refiners, the third the porters^ or those who
carry off the mineral. In general they are a
bold, enterprising, and prodigal class of men.
Familiarized to the sight of the precious metals,
they Ic'jTn to disregard fhern, and attach but
little valr.p to money. They are extravagant in-
their cxpciiS'S, and passionafely addicted to
gamino-, in which they \)^i^ almost all their
leisure moments ; and iii= laixes are not unfre-
quent of a miccr io:-i!:^' one or two thousand
crowns of a night. Lo-ses of this nature are
considered by them a5 trifles, and oa sucii oc-

i

97

Casions tliey gaily console lliemselves with a
professional proverb^ that;, '" the mountains ne-
ver keep accounts." Nothing is more abhorrent
to them than frugality;, and whenever they find
one of their companions who has amassed a
sum of money by his economy^ ^hey leave no
means untried to strip him of it^, observing,
that avarice is a vice peculiarly degrading to the
character of a miner ; and so addicted are they
to ebriety, that those wlio on first joining- them
are remarkable for their abstemiousness^, are
soon led, from the influence of example^ to par-
ticipate in the general intemperance. From
these causes none of them acquire property.,
and they generally die in tlie greatest poverty
and distress^, while the profits of their labour
are wholly absorbed by those who supply them
with provisions and liquor.

Sect. XIII. Concretions, — The last class of
the mineral kingdom, tiic concretions, offers
nothing very remarkable in Chili, Pumice
stone is so common in the interior of the Andes,
that it forms the substance of several mountains,
A species of it, of a light grey, is in much es-
timation with the inhabitants^ who use it for
filtering stones. Petrified wood has been dis-
covered in many places. I have seen pieces of
hewn timber, completely petrified^ dna: out of
a little hill near Valpnraiio, some of which

VOL. I H

98

were eight feet longj and bore the visible
marks of the European axe^ a proof that this
wood must have become petrified since the
arrival of the Spaniards.* Of all kinds of wood

* Tliat the marks in tliis wood were produced by an axe,
or some tool of a similar kind, I am not disposed to question ;
but tliat it must have been an European axe, will fairly admit
of doubt. The Mexicans, on the arrival of the Spaniards,
made use of axes or hatchets of copper, and, as we are assured
by some res[)ectable authors, possessed the art of tempering
that jnctal for tools in a manner entirely unknown to the Eu-
ropeans ; and that this secret was known to the ancient Chilians
IS by no means improbable, considering their contiguity and
intercourse with the Peruvians, a people whose progress in the
arts was not inferior to that of the Mexicans. As the period
when this timber was cut is however wholly conjectural^ it
may perhaps be referred to an earlier date than any autheh-
ticaled or even traditionary accounts of the country ; to an
era when the use of iron was very possibly known, perhaps
anterior to the deluge, when llie face of the globe exhibited
far different aspects and relations than at present. That thii
hypothesis is not wholly destitute of verisimilitude, the follow-
ing may serve to show : One of the numbers of the Richmond
Enrjuircr, for tlie present yeur, 1807, in giving an acc.junt of
the antiquities of the interior of America, observes, that, " a
copper mine was oj)cncd some years since further down the
jMississipj)i (below the falls of St. Anthony) when, to the great
surpiise of the labourers, a largi; collection of mining tools
were found scxeial fathoms below the surface;" and the
writtr of this not;; has been inlormecl, from respectable au-
tliorilv, ilr.it witiiin a slioit time since, in the state of Ken-
furl- v, sonic li'.bonrers, in digging a well, discovered, at the
(hplli of one iuaidred feet from the surface, the stump of a

99

the Chilian willow is perhaps the most suscep-
tible of petrifaction, and pieces of it are every
where to be met with that have undergone this
change ; to effect which, it requires to be bu-
ried but for a short time in a moist and sandy
soil. I have also found pieces of the Perirdcm
taper with the thorns adhering to them com-
pletely petrified, though instances of this are
less frequent, as the moist and spongy texture
of that tree renders it less liable to petrifaction.*

»
Izfrge tree, with an axe adhering to it, apparently of iron, as

on attempting to disengage it, it fell into pieces, which re-
sembled the rusty scales of that metal. — Am, Trans,

* Coal is not mentioned among the mineral productions of
Cliili: llerrera, however, says there is a coal mine upon the
heach, near the city of Conception ; a black stone, he calls it,
which burns like charcoal. — E, E.

Z).r. S. L.G. C. 11.

H -^

100

CilAP. III.

Herts, ShruhSj and Trees.

Whenever mineralogists undertake to cha-^
racterize the external appearance of a mineral
country^ they describe it as particularly recog-
nizable by the weakness of its vegetation and
the faded colour of the plants^ occasioned by
the mineral vapours. This observation is in ge-
neral too boldj and frequently contrary to expe-
rience. M. Macquer * observes very properly,
that there are some countries which are rich in
mineSj whose vegetation is not injured thereby.
This is precisely the situation of Chili^ a
country, as we have seen^ rich m mineral pro-
ductions of every kind, and enjoying at the
same time a vigorous and profuse vegetation.
The plains, the valleys, and tlie mountains, are
covered with beautiful trees, many of which
:<<arcely ever lose their verdure, and each season
produces vegetables suited to llie climate in the
greatest perfection. Feuille has given an ac-
count of those plants only which grow upon the

' Dirtionanj of Chemii'oy \ -irlicle Mine?.

101

jsea, sliore^ or in marshy places in its vicinity.
The interior part of the country has never been
£xplored by an able botanist;, and I am con-
vinced that a great number of unknown plants
might be discovered there.

Had I been desirous of enlarging the limits
of this work^ 1 might have given a very copious
enumeration of the plants of Chili ; but I prefer
confining myself to those only which are most
important and useful. As these may be reduced
to a small number, I have divided them into
herbs, grasses,* climbing plants, shrubs, and
trees. I am aware that this division is not
scientific, but it is convenient, and better suited
to the plan I have pursued in rny description of
vegetables.

Sect. I. Herbs. — Many of the plants which
are found in the country, such as the mallows,
trefoil, plaintain, endive, mint, nettles, &c. are
common both to Chili and to Europe. Others
that are carefully cultivated in the Europeaa
gardens grow naturally there, such as lupins,
love apples, Spanish pimento, celery, cresses^,
mustard, fennel, &c.f Of the tropical plants,

"* I have rendered grasses what the author has called ia
Italian canne {reeds). — Fr, Trans.

t Ail our plants arc cultivated there without difficulty, and
produce abundantly, and there are some that grow naturally

H 3

103

several succeed very well in the nortliern pro-
vinces, among which are the sugar-cane, the
pine-apple, the cotton, the banana, the sweet
potatoe, jalap, mechoacan, and others of less
importance. Besides these. Chili produces a
great number of plants that appear to be pe-
culiar to it. There are some that are common
to all the provinces, others are conlined to cer-
tain districts. In my different herborizations
while in Chili, I collected about three thousand
plants, the greater part of which are non-de-
script, and not to be found in any botanical
work. Among these were a number vdiose
flowers are remarkable for their beauty find
fragrance, and which, in their season, give the
fields the appearance of so many parterres ; but
the inhabitants in general pay but little attention

in the fields, as the turnip, succory, endive, &c. Nor arc the
aromatic herbs less common, as bahu^ iniig--ivortj camoniih',
and a kind of mouse-ear, which has the smell of a Inacinth ;
the alkcugi, or winter-cherry, wlsose fruit is more odoriferous
tlian that of France ; a species of sage, called by the Indians
palghi, that gro'.vs like a shrub, with a leaf resembling rose-
mary, and an odour like Hungary water, iusses grow ria-
turally upon the hills ; the most common kind are entirely
destitute of thorns, or have but a very few. In the fields is
found a flower similar to the kind of lily called in Eritany
guernexkdses', the Indian name of which is liuto; it consists
of six petals, two of wiiich are in the form of a phnne. The
root, when dried in an oven, furnishes a very white meal,
wiiich is excellent for ])astry.— i'Vaxier 5 Voyage, vol. i.

103

to tlieni, and prefer decorating their gardens
with exotic* flowers received from Europe,
to cultivating- their own'.

The domestic animals live during the whole
year in the open fields^ and from feeding on the
aromatic plants, so abundant in Chili, their
flesh acquires a flavour superior to what it has
in any other country. The Chilians have no oc-
casion to provide hay for their cattle, as the
herbage never fails, and there is a constant
succession of the different plants which serve
them for food. In the cities the horses. are fed
with barley and a species of clover. Trefoil,
called by the Indians gualpuihc, is one of the
most common plants of the coimtry; of this
there are not less than twelve different kinds to
be fonnd in the meadows, which contain much
lucerne^ and a species of Venus's comb, com-
monly called loiqui lahucn, or aljilerillo, of
which the cattle are peculiarly fond. This
plant, which I have named scanclix cJiiknsis, is
distinguished from the European species by its
aromatic odour, by its stem, which is not
striated, and by its leaves ; these are larger,

" The rose-bush was introduced into Peru from Spain : i*
.>hot up so luxuriantly that it did not blos.^om. By some ac-
cident a rosier ^vas burnt, and tiie youus; shoots from the
root flonered. This taught llu'ni to tut the bushes down,
and tlaa lliey succeeded. — E. E.

Her r era 5. 1. 6.

H 4

104

and althotigh winged like the Veniis's comb of
Europe^ have some of their lesser leaves entire
and fleshy. This plant is reputed to be vulne-
rary, and its Chilian name, signifying the herb
of woundS;, is expressive of this quality.

The soil is so fertile that the herbage grows
to such a height in many pastures as completely
to conceal the sheep, especially in the valleys
of the Andes, where the vegetation is always
the most vigorous. But amidst this luxuriant
growth there are two or three species of plants
injurious to cattle, which are much dreaded^
especially a kind known in the country by the
name of ijcrda loca, or herb of madness, from
its rendering those animals who eat of it madj,
particularly horses.

This plants which forms a new genus, I have
called lupj)omanica. Its stalks are of an an-
gular shape^ a foot and a half in height ; the
leaves are opposite, lanceolated, entire, and
fleshy, of a clear grey, about an inch in length,
and attached to the branches without a foot-
stalk ; the flower is formed like a rose, and
grows at the top of the branches ; it consists of
iive oval petals, of a yellow colour, supported
by a calyx divided into five parts; when ripe,
ih(' pvstil becomes changed into a capsula,
separr>,''e(j into four cells, V'hirh contain black
^jdurv-shapcd s'cds. The juice of this plant is
vi^cuus, of ij, vellowish colour, and sweetish

105

taste ; the husbandmen take great pains to destroy
it, iiotwithstandiDg which^ it constantly springs
i«p agaioj and if a horse eats of it^ he is sure to
die, unless immediate measures are taken to make
him sweat profusely by violent exercise.

Besides those which have been brought from
Europe, Chili produces a great number of valu-
able plants, both alimentary, medicinal, and such
as are useful in the arts. Many of these, parti-
cularly the alimentary kind, were w ell known and
cultivated before the arrival of the Spaniards.

Sect. II. Alimentary Herbs or Plants.— -ThQ
maize (zeamais) or Turkey wheat, called by
the Chilians giia, was well known in America
when Columbus first arrived there. Tliis fact is
confirmed by all the writers of that period, and it
is vc^y certain that it was the only species of
corn at that time made use of by the natives.
The improper application of the name of the
Indies to America has probably led M. Bomare
to observe, that the maize is indigenous to Asia,
from whence it was carried into Europe, and
from thence to America. There are likewise
some autiiorSj as C. Durante, in his herbal,
who improperly denominate it Turkey wheat,
considering it as originally from Turkey.

Maize grows extremely well in Chili,* and

* In the old continent wlieat is tlie most comnion grain,
\>id in the new world maize hus always been^ and still is, the

106

the inhabitants cuUivite eight or nine varieties
of it^ several of which are very productive.
But that which is in the highest repute with
them is called uminta ; from this thej prepare a
dish bj bruising the corn while it is green be-
tween two stones into the form of paste^ to
which is a ded sufficient salt or butter and s«gar
to season it ; it is then divided into small por-
tions or cakeSj which are enclosed separately
within the inner skin or husk of the corn and
boiled.

When the maize is ripe the Indians prepare it
f(>r winter in two different modes^ either by
slightly roasting it^ which they call chucJiocaj or
by drying it in the sun ; from the former they
make a kind of soup^ by boiling it in water^ and
fro'.ri the latter a beer cf a very pleasant taste.
They sometimes reduce it to meal^ but before
grinding, roast and crack it by means of heated
sand. For this purpose they prefer a kind of
maize called curagua, the grains of which arc
smaller than the others^ and furnish a meal that
is more liglitj v/hiter and in greater c[uantitv.
From this raeal^ mixed with sugar and water,
either hot or cold, they make two different be-
ve.ajjes, called iili)0 and chcrchan.

A species of rye called niagii, and of barley

most general; it is produced in all parts of the West-Inilic?,
ill Peru, in Now Spain, in Guatini;;l;i, in Chili, and throughout
Terra rirnia. — Acosta's Naiural History, book iv.'

107

called tuca, were cultivated by the Araucaiiian?^
before the arrival of the Spaniards; but since
the introduction of the European wheats tlie
cultivation of these ha« been entirely neglected,
and I have not been able evcii to procure a spe-
cimen^ for the purpose of describing them. All
that is known at present is that the Araueanians
made a bread from them called covqiie, which
name they give to that made from maize or
European grain.

The quinua is a species of chenopodium from
three to four feet in height; it has large rboiii-
boidal sinuated leaves of a deep green, and the
flowers are disposed upon long spikes ; the grain
is black and spirally twisted, which gives it, of
course, a lenticular a])pearance. There is a variety
of ibis |)bint called daliuc by tlie Indians, v. liich
has grcvish leaves, and produces a white grain.
The ;;iTain of the qiiinuci serves for making a
verv pleasant stomachic beverage; that of the
dah;tc, oil being boiled, lengthens out in the form
of V. oims, and is excellent \\\ soup. Th.e leaves
are also eaten, and are tender and of an agreeable
ta:^e.

The dc:xul is a species of bean (])ha*colii> vul-
g'lri.-;). Before this countrv was conquered by
tlie Spaniards, thirteen or fourteen kinds of the
h-eaii, varying but lil<le from Ihe conHiion Euro-
pean b;: an, were cnilivai'il bv the n-'itives. One
of tlic^c: has a slraidit ^i:illv, tl'e oHier thirteen

lOB

Ate climbers ; of these, two are very remarks
able, the phaseolis pallar, the bean of which is
half an inch long, and the phaseolus ,asellus^
which is spherical and pulpy.

Chili is considered by M. Bomare as the na-
tive soil of that valuable esculent the potatoe
(solanuni tuberosum), an indigenous American
root, likewise known by the names of pajm and
'pogny. It is, indeed, found in all the fields of
that country ; but those plants that grow wild,
called by the Indians maglia, produce only very
israall roots of a bitterish taste. It is distin-
guished by two different species, and more than
thirty varieties, several of which are carefully
cultivated. The first is the common kind; the
second, called solarium cari, bears white flowers
with a large nectary in the middle like the nar?
cissus ; its root is cylindrical and very sweet.
Tbe i:«ual mode of cooking it is by roasting it
"und^'i' i'iiG ashes.

The oca (oxalis tuberosa) appears to be of a
tlifferentkind from the oca of Pern ; in its form
iy.nd fructification it resembles the yellow wood
icrrel ; its leaves are disposed by threes, and are
i'.i an acid taste, and the flowers are oval ; its
root extends i^soif into five or six tuberosities of
three or four inches in length, covered v*ith a
*hin swiooth skin. They arc eaten cooked,, and
lrjis(. a pleasant subacid taste. Tliis plant h
v.'.iso. iik'} the Dotatoc, multiplied by means of iU

109

liulbs ; there are several species of it, one of
which, called by the Chilians red culle, is held
in much estimation for dying, and is considered
as a specific in inflammatory fevers. Among
(hem is likewise the barilla, or the alleluia vir-
gosa of Coquimbo : This last produces but a
few radical trilocated leaves ; its stalks, which
are numerous, are very tender, and of an acid
taste ; they are five feet in length, of the size
of a man's finger^ and covered with yellow
flowers suspended in vertical bells.

Of the gourd, two principal species are known
ia Chili, the white flowered, and the yellow
flowered, or the Indian gourd. Of the first
kindj called by the Indians qiiada, there are
twenty-six varieties, several of which produce
fruit that is sweet and edible, but that of the
others is bitter. Of the bitter kinds the most
distinguished is the cider gourd ( cucurbita ci-
ceraria*) so called from the Indians making use
of it, after extracting the seeds and perfuming it,

• The cal.ibaslies of Ihc Indians are anotlier \von(1crfni
production for their size and the luxuriance of Iheir gro\'. i\i :
especially those called zapallos, the pulp of vAilch, pa'ticii
larly in Quaresma, are eaten boiled or iVieU. There i-; u tatjil
variety of this species of the calaLasli ; some of tb.etn ^ire r.^
Jarge that \\ hen dried, and tlic shei! diviJini iu tht> niiddlt
and cleansed, they are used ur, cr.vored baskets to put pro-
visions in; others that are smaller are employed as vessels t>>
drink from, or handsomely wroiigh'. iur wuiovs purpo-ei— «
A^osta's Natural Illitcrv, book iv,
I

no

to ferment their cider. It is naturally of a round
form, and frequently grows to a large size. It
is also used by the natives instead of baskets,
and in such cases they give it whatever shape
they think proper. The yellow flowered or
Indian gourd, called pcnca, is of two kinds,
the common and the mamillary ; this last in its
leaves and flowers resembles the first, but the
figure of the fruit is spheroidal, with a large
nipple at the end; the pulp is sweet, and its
taste is very similar to a kind of potatoe known
by the name of camote.

The quclghcii, or the strawberry of Chili,
diflers from the European in its leaves, which
are rough and succulent, and in the size of its
fruit, which is frequently that of a hen's egg.
The strawberries, like those of Europe, are ge-
nerally red or white, but those that are yellow
arc also to be found in the provinces of Puchacay
and Iluilquilemu, where they attain greater
perfection than elsewhere.* The strawberry of

* Tlie stuuvbeiry of Chili is an Iiermaphrotlite and
dioecia!, and the plants brought by Frazier to Europe were
probably only some female hermaphrodite shoots, which pro-
duced fruit in consequence of being impregnated by some of
our ^tra\^ berries winch were in the vicinity. Had the author
been in a situation to have become acquainted with <his cir-
cumstance, he would not have called that degeneration which
is niere!y ;I.c 'result of an unnatural fecundity.

'I'he waiil of male plants, as appears from Miller, is also
the reason of the En^^lish luning abandoned the cultivation of
his v;j;ii.v-b;rrv. — /■>. Trans.

Ill

Chili was introduced many years since into
Europe, and 1 have seen in the botanic garden at
Bologna the white kind, which is the most
common in Chili, but it had lost much by trans-
plantation ; its fruit was smallj and little of the
fragrance was left which renders it so highly es-
teemed in Chili.*

The madi (madia, gen. nov.) Of this plant
there are two kinds, the one wild, the other cul-
tivated. The cultivated, w^hich I have called
madia sativa, has a branching hairy stalk, nearly
live feet in height; the leaves are villous and

* We found in the deport strawLeriics of a vcr\ fine flavour,
equal iu size to our largest nuts, and of a pale vhile ; and
although tliey resembled the European neither iu colour nor
in taste, they were nevertheless excellent. — FeuilU, vol. i.

There are whole fields where a species of strawberry is
rultivated that differs from ours iu its leaves, which arc
rounder and more fleshy and hairy; the fruit is usually the
size of a nut, and sometimes that of a hen's egg. The colour
is a whitish red, and the taste not so delicate as that of our
sttawberries. But there is not wanting iu the woods a greal
plenty of the European kind. — Fraziers Voyage, vol. i.

Die fruits most abundant iu Chili are of tlie same kinds
with those kuown in Europe, among wliich arc cherries that
are large and of a delicate taste, strawberries of two kinds
one called frut'iUa, which is of the size of a sniail hen's egg ;
and aaolher, in colour, SiueU and ta-te, iil.e that of Spain,
which grows wild at the foot of tiie little liil!^ ; bkewise all
kinds of flowers are found tl.H-re ^^ ithout any other cuUi-
valioii tiiau whut fiiey receive from \hx huiiu'^ •,)?" luiturc itst-ii".
-—Uii'ju's Voyo^^-:, 'Odinii;, \()l,iii.

113

placed by threes ; they are four inches m length,
half an inch in breadth, and of a bright green liker
the leaves of the rose laurel ; its flowers are ra-
diated and of a yellow colour; the seeds are con-
Tex on one side, and covered with a very thin
brownish pellicle on the other ; they are from
four to five lines in length, and enclosed in a sphe-
rical pericarpium of about eight or nine lines in
diameter. An excellent oil is obtained from the
seeds, either by expression, or merely boiling
them; it is of an agreeable taste, very mild, and
as clear as the best olive oil . Feuille, who resided
three j^ears in Chili, praises it highly, and gives
it the preference to any olive oil used in France.*
This plant, hitherto unknown in Europe, would be-
come the most valuable acquisitionto those coun-
tries where the olive cannot be raised. The wild
madi (madia mellosa) is distinguished from the
other by its leaves, which are amplexicaul and
glutinous to the feeling.

The pimento (capsicum) called by the Indians
tnapi. Of this plant many species are cultivated
in Chili, among others the annual pimento, which

* From the ?ec(l of this plant is obtained an admirable oil,
which the inhabitants of liic country use in various ways — to
alleviate pain by rubbing with it the diseased part, to seasoQ
their victuals, and also for light. T » my taste it is sweeter and
more j)leasaiit than most of our olive oil which it reseinblis
in colour.— Fev;'//^, vol. iii.

h there perennial, tlie berry pimento, and the pi-
inen(o with a «iiblig;ea()us staik. The inhabit-
ants make use equally of all the three to season
their food.

Besides tliose whicli I have mentioned, the
Cliilians make use of many other excellent plants,
which, tliough natural to the country, require a
more attentive cultivation ; of these the principal
arc the umbellifera, t!ie bermudiana or illmu,
andthehemerocallis of Feuille. The umbellifera,
or heracleum tuberosum, in its leaves, flower?^,
and seed resembles theillmu, but is distinj^uishcd
from it by the quantity of its bulbs, which are
six inches long and three broad ; the colour of
tlie bulbs is vellow and tlieir taste very pleasant,
it grows naturally in sandy places near hedges,
and produces abundantly.

The bernundiana bulbosa, or the illmu oi'
Feuille, has a branchy sialic, and its leaves are
very similar to those of th.e leek; the llower is
of a violet colour, and divided into six parts,
which are turned back towards the foot-stalk;
it has six sta'.nens and a triangular pystil; the
seeds are black and round, and the bulbs wlien
boiled or roasted are excellent food.'^

The hemerocallis, or, the liuto of the Indians^

*Tlie natives of the country nvtke use of the root of th;?
plant ill their s(>u})s, and it is very ))k'a5ant to the taste, us J
Iiave n vseif cxpcricnceil.»— /'(■?;;//:■-
YO ..I. I

Ill

has a stalk of a foot in height ; the leaves are
pointed and embrace the stem, which divides
itself at the top into a number of pedicles bear-
ing a beautiful red flower of the shape of a lily.
The root is bulbous,, ant] yields a very light white
and nutritious floiir, which is used for the sick.

The liliaceous plants oIFer a great variety
throughout Cliiii^ and are known (o the Arauca-
nians by the generic name of gU. I have col-
lected myself more than twenty-three difl^crent
spixics of them, many of which were adorned
with superb flowers.

In the province of St. Jago is found a species
of wild basil (ocymum salinum) diilering in its
appearance from the common or garden species
only in its stalk, which is round and jointed; but
in its smell and taste it resembles m.ore the alga,
or sea-weed, than Ihc ba-il. This plant con-
tiijues to increase in gro '■: ^li from the iirst opening
of the sprin • to tlic coinmcucemeiit of winter,
and is every morning covered v. iti; salineglobules
that are hard and shiiiii g, and give it the appear-
ance of being coated witli dew. The husband-
men collect and make use of this salt instead of
tlie common khd, wbicii it f:ir exceeds in taste.
Each 'plant producer daily iibout half an ounce,
a phenoineiion, the cau-e of v.hich I am notable
satis Tactorily to explain, as it grows in a very
fertile srJl e:-i?iibiting no appearance of salt,
and at nu^rc thcUi sixty miles distance from the
sea.

115

Sect. III. 7/ir/,'.-; .vs-jr/ in Djjing. — From time
imnsemorial luive llie CiiiliUMS made use ofiiidi-
geneoi!'^ j.ianis i'or clviiig; ii.d such is tlieir cx-
c;'lieii('e. tli;it ihey ct)ii:!!Uis>ic:it{^ the liveliest and
iiio-i, duiuhle colours to their cloths, without the
aid of anv foreign production,* I liave in my
possession a piece of cloth dyed in that country,
which inth rty \ears use has lost nothing of the
origii)al lustre of its colours, which are blue^
yellow, red;, and green, nciJier from exposure to
the air, nor the use of soap. The natives of the
southern provinces obfaii; a blue from a plant
with wliich I am unacquainted ; but in the Arau-
canian and the Spanish possessions thev make use
of indigo diluted with fermented urine, which
gives to the substance dyed a beautiful and du-
rable colour.

Red is obtained from a species of madder
called rclbuii (rubia Chilcnsis). It usually
grows under shrubs in sandy j)bices ; its stalk is
nearly round, the leaves oval, pointed and w hitisb,
and placed by fours as in the iilbert ; its fiowers
are monopetalous^ and divi.a;d i.ito four p.u'ts;

* Besides the medicinal herb-^, thev l.avo ollicrs for dying,
the colours oF \vliicli ate very dural)!e, ai;d d;; v.ol change iu
\\ ashing. Anioiig the=o is the reilion, a speces ot madder,
uilh a leafsotMewluit less than the Eiirof can, the root of whicli
is boiled in water in the same manner to <'>ktract the dye. The
poquel is a species of southern wood, of a goideu colour.—
Frazier, vol. i.

I 2

116

the seed is contained in two little red berries^
which are united like those of the European
madder ; the root is red, runs deep iato the earth,
and its lateral fibres frequently occupy a space
of many feet in circumference.

A species of agrimony (eupatorinni Chilense)
known in the country by the name of contra*
Tjcrha, furnishes the yellow. This ])]ant lias a
violet stalk of about two feet in heiglit, divided
by small knots, from whence issue the leaves in
pairs opposite to each other ; they are of abripjil
green, three or four inches in length, narrow and
indented ; the branches are axillary^vand produce
some flosculous flowers of a yellow colour, re-
sembling those of the agrimony. In the centre
of the flower a small worm is ahnost always dis-
coverable, whose body is coinposcd of clcvea very
distinct rings. A yellow iri a!:o ohiained from
the poqucl (sanloliiu'i. lincloria) a si/r ies 'si, cress,
wifh long and narrow leases rescmbUn;^ wf^d flax ;
if puts forth tliree or f^:iu- stalks l^10 feet m
height, striated and crowned at ilw, lop with
a yellow senii-gh^bnlar flov^er, composed of
several small one*. Tlio stalks furnish a ;'Teen
colour.

The root of a perennial plant, called paunc
( paiike tinctoria, gen. nov. ) furnishes a fineblack.

■'' This iKnr.c !rr;i>lics, thai ;i -.vas cou. i'.icrL'd w-i a uiiliflu!''

m

and Is acknowkdo-cd to be one of the most uie-
ful plants in Chili. Some writers liave given it
tlic name of bardana CliiiensiSj from the resem-
blance of its leaves to tliose of the burdock^
ahliouLh its fructification is entirtM y dificrent.
The root is very long"^ frequently five inches
tiiick, rouirh and black wlthoutjaiid whitcwitliiu.
The leases are attached to knig petioles, and are
palmated ; <he\ are of a briirht green above, and
ash-colourcd beneath, frequentlv two feid in di-
aine(er, iivCi of a subacid taste. From the centre
of ihe radical leaves shoots up a single stalk,
ih'c feet in height and three inches thick, covered
with a rough bark furnished with thorns. This
st;'Jk has no leaves except at the top, where there
are three or four much smaller than those at the
root, surmounted by a large conical fascieuluSj
or bunch, whicli produces the flowers and the
leed ; tlie flowers are white, a little inclining to
red, bell-sha[)ed, and nioncpetalous ; the seed is
greenish, round, and enclosed iii a capsule of the
same form.

Tliis plant is peculiar to moist places, and it
always perishes when not supplied with ^vater.
[t grows more luxuriantlv and to a larger size i\)
the \ alleys between the Andes, where it frequent! v
exceeds the height wliieh I liave nient ioned ; in
low grounds near the sea it is oiJ v of a moderate
height. The bhick for dying is obtained from
J.lie juice of the root, and it uiigat answer equallv

I .>

118

v/ell for ink^ as its viscositj and the brautiful
black it acquires from time, give it all the requi-
site qualities, it is also used for tanning leather;
but foi' this purp!)se it becomes necessary to pound
it, aid the smell it exhales is sa strong, that the
workmen can rarely endure it above half an hour
at a time. The st-aik contains a white pith of
an acidulous taste, which the country people eat
in summer,* and the shoe- makers use the wood
for their lasts, as they b"iieve it more durable
than any other. Another species of t ,e panke
(})anke aculis) called in the language of the
country dinacio, grows in sandy and moist places ;
the root is of the s^apc of a turnip, as large as
a man's arm, aiid of a sweetish tasle; it is highly
estee ned bv Ihe inhabitants, but produces no kind
of iiy'\ This plant is without a >-talk, and puts
forth fr )m the root a group of small leaves,
ornamented in the cenire with a bouquet of
flowers s^imihir to those of the preeedii!*^.

The Chilians (ibtain a violet colour from the
bernes of &evc:al slirub.-; ; lust the cnUi, wijieh
I nave mentioned amono," the alimentarv herbs,

*This plant is refiigcratorv, and a decottioii ct" l!ie leiives
is !:i\tai in fevtr.^. The ends of" tin; leaves, strijiped of tlieir
j'xU rior coverings are also eaten raw, ami of a s\\eet and verv
pleasant taste. Thf dvers make use of the root to obtain a
black, bv cutting it into small picrrs, which tliey boil with a
ri-rlai:i pciion of black carlli, and the lanners pr."i";are their
:;kin.5 by soakia;' tliciii \-\itli it in warra vaten — Ftuiile, vol. ii.

119

produces tliat wliicli is most esteemed ; it is
reduced into the Ibrm of paste like the woad,
and the dyers make use of it in the same manner.
After the first autumnal rains a small plant
sprin*:^s up in the fields, called the herb of rosoU,
which appears to he of a new genus, and which
I have deiiominated sassia tincloria. It hears
three or for.r quadripetal ilowers of a purple
hue, which are used to colour and to communi-
cate an agreeable flavour to a kind of liqueur
called the ijurple. A single flower, although
smaller than that of thvme, will colour five or
isix pounds of liquor. The cabinet-makers
likewise make use of it to stain their work. 1
am of opinion that this plant might be advan-
tageously employed in the dying of wool and
linen, particularly t!ie latter, since merely by
tinging it with the expressed juice of the flower,
it acquires a beautiful colour that continues a
lor.g time. Of the same genus is the sassia
pcrdicaria, called by the inhabitants rimii , or
the paitridge flower, from its being the favourite
food of that bird. \i bears but one flower, of
a golden yellow, similar in form to that of the
panke tinctoria, which gives a beautiful appear-
ame to the meadows, where it is found in great
abundance in autumn. The Chilian names of
the months of April and of May are derived
from that of thid plant, April being called unen-

i4

120

rimu , the first rinm^ and Majj inan-rimii^ or the
second rimii.

Sect. IV. Medicinal Plants.— K knowledge
of the virtues of plants and lierbs^ acquired by
long- experience, forms almost the whole of the
medical science of the Chilians^ particulady of
those aborigines v/ho have never embraced chris-
tianitj. The macliis and ampives, names given
to their physicians, are only skillful herborists,
"who, in reality, often perform extraordinary
cures. The virtues of many plants are known
only to them, as, either from hatred to the Spa-
niards, or to enhance their own consequence,
they studiously conceal their properties: not-
withstanding which, near twt) hundred valuable
medicinal herbs have been discovered, besides
a great number of shrubs and trees, which at
presciit form an important branch of foreign
commerce, Ihe most celebrated of which are the
rachanlaliucn, the 'cirarira, the rctamilla, the
paiico, and the quinchumali.

The cachanlaJiuen (gentian cachanlahuen)
called by ]M. Bomare and some other authors
chancdag'ue and chanchalagiia, is not a native of
Panauja, as is stated in tie Memoirs of the
Academy of Sciences for 1707; nor does it grow,
as M. Bomare has mentioned, in Guayaquil, but
only in Chili, from whence it has been trans-

121

ported to tlic olher parts of America^ and to
Europe. This plant is a species of tlie centaury,
and oreaily resembles the common kind, but it
dili'ers from it in having a rounder stalk, a less
librons leaf, and branches opposed to each other
in i)airs [)hiced almost horizontally. Its name
in the Chilian signifies the herb for curing the
pleurisy, in ^^hicll complaint it is found very
efiicacious ; it is also consid^i'ed as nmc^'itive,
dissolvent, worm-destroying, an excellent febri-
fuge, and a specific for the sore throat.* The
infusion of it is extremely bitter, and in its smell
resci bles tlie balsam of Peru.

The Tirax:ira (gnapliaiium viravira) is a spt;-
cies of houscleek very aromatic ; it is recom-
meiidcd in intermitting fevers ; the infusion is
an excellent sudorillc, atid the Chilians make

* This plant is exlrojiicly bitter; an infusion of it is
aperient atxl siidorilic ; it stron!j;l!icus the stouiaoh, destroys
worms, fnvjuonliv ('ures iiiterniiluiig fevers, and is very ser-
vi(t:iib!e in rlieumiitir complaints. — FcuilU, \ol. ii.

The cacheiihdiuen, or thecanchalamia,\vliich is called cahen-
hif;ua in Chili, is very similar in its apijearance to the smaller
European cenhmrv, aUhoiigii not ^o liii^lu A decoction of it
iu warm water, in the manner of tea, is considered an excel-
lent jHirifier of the hinuvl, Tliis j)lant is hii^hly c< lebrated in
Ciiili, t'lniu V. licr.ce il i, evpoiti'd tooHurpaifs, as a fehiifui::e.
1 liiiuk it pret'c'iible to the European (ei.iyiiry, and ii is consi-
dered as very ethcacious iu co'.n-,>Uiia(.s of the throat. — Per-
nellfi's ^'oijnp;:, \o\. i.

123

use of it in catarrhal complaints. The leaves
are extremely villous, and appear to be covered
v\'ith cotton ; the flowers, which do not exceed
four, are composite and flosculated, they are of
a golden colour and placed at the top of the
branches, and the seed resembles much that of
the sloechas citrina.*

The retamilla (linum aquilinum) or g/zrmcw
laliuen, grows usually at the foot of the moun-
tains. The root is very long and perennial ; it
puts forth yeveral branchy stalks, furnished with
small alternate lanceolated leaves ; the flowers
are yellow, with five petals, and are attached by
pairs to a common pedicle; the pystil becomes
changed into a membranaceous pentagonal cap-
sule, contai.injz: a number of little seeds. This
plant possesses the same virtues as the viravira,
and is used in the same cases.

* Aiiioi]^ the Iicrbs that cover the mountains tliere are
manv that arc ruotriatic and mcfiicinal; of the latter, the
must in est<'ein with tlie country peojjie is t!ic cach-iuhigua, or
liltle centaury, v/hich appears to nie to i>e bitterer than that
of" France, and, of coarse, more abundant in that salt which is
consifiered. as an excellent febrifuge. Tiie viravira is a species
of houseleck, an infusion of wiiich was found to he very ser-
liceable by a French surgeon in the cure of tertian fevers,
Th.ere is also a species of senna perfectly resembling that of
the Levant, in the place of uhicii it is used by the apolhe*
<:aries of St. Jago ; it is called by the Indians mwperquen, —
Frazisrs f^'oyage, vol. i.

123

The payco (licrniaria pnyco*) by ivliicli name
it is known in many modern medical works,, is
also denominated tea of the third species^,
although it appertains to the g-enns of herniaria.
It puts forth several trailing- shoots^ coveied with
small oval leaves^ notched like a saw, and at-
tached to the stalk without a petiole. The
flowers have many stamina, and are very nu-
merous ; the seed is enclosed in a 'pherical cap-
sule ; the colour of the plant is a light green,
and its smell is something like that of a rotten
lime. As a medicine it promotes digestion, is
excellent in corapIaiLits of the stomach, and very
useful in the pleurisy. f

The quinchamcJi ( quinchamalium Chilense).
As this plant forms a new genus, I have retained
the name bv which it is known in the country ;
it produces a great number of stalks of nine
iiiches in height, with alternate leaves similar to
those of the linaria aurea tragi ; the flowers are

* All the plants of the genus herniaria that are known, and
those that iiave an atlinily to theui, as the ilecebrum, the
achyrautt's, kc. have tlu ir leaves entire, without beini: jiiirrred
or indented j of cour.-e this instance presents an exception
ix':\n tiic gevicral rule. — Fr. Trans.

t TiV-' tiayco is a pl;iht of ndddlinj; hei^iht,, uhn=G leaves are
a little (!> iitutr;!, and have a sniel! like a rotten lime; a decoc-
tion of them an- sudoriiie, and are good in jden-nfic complaints.
Tlii re i. li'-. •■>.;-« a <jreat cpiantity ot [.'astard rosemary, wliich
^;io^iac^^ the >unie citect:-. — Fraxicrs VoyngCj vol. i.

124

umbellated, yellow, and tubulous, with a border
divided into four parts like the jessamin ; the
seed is blacky lenticular^, and enclosed in a sphe-
rical capsule, containing three cells. The coun-
try people make use of the expressed juice, or
the decoction, as a resolutive after falls or
bruises, and it is found to be an excellent remedy
in cases of that kind.* Feuille, whose memory
will be ever dear to the Chilians, has furnished
an account of a great number of medicinal
plants, with very accurate delineations of them.
I shall, however, merely mention a few of the
principal ones ; as the inclioa, the cli?iclin, the
guilnOj all of which are purgative plants ; the
diuca-laliueny a good vulnerary medicine ; the
sandia-laliucn, serviceable in menstrual suppres-
sions ; the corccore, a specific for the tooth-ach ;
and the gnilhue, much esteemed as a purifier of
the blood.

Tobacco, called by the Indians piifhcni, is of
two kinds, the cultivated and the wild. The

* A drink made of the dccocfioii of a certain litib called
rjuinchaniali is esteemed as an iiifallihie remedy for the bleed-
ing of the nose, when caused by a fail or violent blow. It is
a species of the lavender, which bears a small red and yellow
flower. Many of the medicinal herbs that we have in
France are also natural to the country ; as several species of
the maiden-hair, some of which are equal to the Canadian,
the mallows, the fox-glove, polipody, spleenvvort, and some
others whose names I am unacquainted with. — Frax'iers
Voyage, vol i.

125

cultivated is subdivided into the common to-
bacco, \vhicli is equal to the best Brazilian, and
.the little tobacco (nicoiiana minima) Nvliose
leaves resemble those of the Cretan dittany ; its
fructification is like that of the co-mmon kind,
but the tobacco itself is much stronger^, and
more violent in its effects.

Sect. V. Grasses. — The banks of the rivers
and other moist places produce in general a great
number of reeds and rushes, many of which are
unknown to botanists. A species of the latter^
which I have called sclrpus eUcluiarius, serves to
make wicks for candles. This rush grows to
the height of about four feet ; the stem is
is round; from the top protrude three sword-
shaped leaves, in the midst of which are four
globulous spikes or heads.

From a species of rush, produced in the
vallevs of tlie Andes, the Araucanians manu-
facture baskets of so close a texture as to hold
water, which are employed for many domestic
purposes. Of these great numbers are sold at
the annual fairs in the Spanish provinces. But
notwithstanding I have been assured by many
that the plant employed in this manufacture is a
real rush, from examination I am more inclined
to believe it a i»pecies of cane, as it? fibres are
woody, and the whole substance very solid.
Amonc those rushes whose characters are we'i

126

defined, the solid rush of Chili deserves to be.
noticed : of this there arc many kinds, compre-
hended under the general name of culiu. All
these rushes resemble the bamboo ; they have a
smooth, hard, yellowish bark ; the inside is ge-
nerally filled with a fiIac<^ous substance, a little
harder than cork; the leaves are long and very
slender, and grow upon several little branches
into which the top divides itself. The three
most remarkable kinds are the rugi, the quila,
and the rush of Valdivia.

The riigi (arundo rugi) is about as large as
the common European rush, which is also well
known in Chili. At the foot of the Andes this
plant often grows to the height of twenty feet,
but diminishes considerably as it approaches the
sea, where it scarcely attains twelve.

The qnila (ar«i;do quila) is tlirce or four times
larjrer than the ruai, but its slioois are nut more
than a foot tlisiant from eacli ollicr.

The rush of V'aldirici (aruiido Valdiviana)
has received this name fom the circr.mstance of
its PTowiiiC: in the viciiiiiv of tliat ciU ,• it is of
an orange colour ; the slioots are very short, and
the joints almost touch each other. Tlie country
people make of it cages and other little manu-
factures ; they also use it for their hedges, and
sometimes to cover their houses, as it is very du-
rable wliea it has not been too losig ejcposed to
moisture. The Araucanians make use of the

127

quila for their lances, and tlie rush of Valdivia
for caneSj which are much esteemed.

Skct. VI. Cliinhing Plants. — Climbing' plants,
or creoperS;, are found in great abundance in all
the fhickels. Several of the mo-jt beautiful are
employed to decorate the trellices of gardens.
Among others, the copiu deserves to be noticed ;
its flow^ers, each of wliich is composed of six
petals, three inches in length, are of the most
beautiful crimson, spotted within with white.
This plant climbs up the highest trees ; its
leaves are disposed by threes, and are of a beau-
tiful green, and an oval shape ; the {':uit is an
inch in diameter, cylindrical, of a dull yellow,
and contains a white tender pulp of a sweet and
pleasant taste. In Chili is likewi.-c found the
passion-fiu~ucer (passillora tilice folia) the cara-
cal, the sarsaparilla, the ah'rocmcria sahilla^
and four or five other species of those vines
called by the French llanes, and !)y the inhabit-
ants zvqui. One of the most useful is tlie cc^gul
(dolichos funarius). The \h]c is round, and
ligneous, and of the size of pack-thread, and
its flowers resemble those of iho co];iu. it
climbs upon the trees like the ivy, but wiihout
attaching itself to them. V/hcn li riache.-; the
top of a tree, it desceiids fro'ii it perpendicular] v,
and as it continues to grow^ exioiids itself fro sit

128

tree to tree^ until at lenj»;th it offers to the eve a
confused tissue, exhibiting some resemblance to
the riijgini;;; of a ship. This singular plant
produces a Ici^'ujninous fiovver of apurpleco-
Jour ; its pod is an inch thick, and about a foot
and a half long-; it ccnlains an oily pulp of a
sweet and verv agreeable taste, and five seeds re-
sembling- those of the cotton. The vine, which
is much tougher and more ilexihle than osier,
serves for many purposes, and can be procured
from one to tv,o hundred falhoms in length, as
Vvhen it descends it does not take root in the
earth, like another plant analagous to it, M'liich
is a native of the torrid zone. The husband-
men, before they make use of this vine, pass it
lightly through the flames, which not only
loosens the bark, but at the same time renders it
more flexible, Thev ejnploy it both in making
large baskets, and as \; attling for their hedge? ;
it is sometimes evea ii.-.rd in cables for Tesselt^^
%Yhich \^ear better than ihn^c made of hen.p, as
they are capable of rcsistiiig ni;ii.stnre for a longer
time. In the Arc]ii})elago of Chiloe is anoiher
plant called pcpoi, in soire respects re;-embiing'
the coo-ul, wliirh the inliaijitant* of those islands
use as ropes for their periaugrcs. The voqui, or
zoclii, described by Feuille, which commonly
grows in the woods of the ri-p.risinie provinces, is
cf a distinct s^-jccies;, as- i^ the V'-rcolaria of the

1^9

same author^ the flower of which is an inch in
lengthy and is divided into five equal lobes of a
beautiful red.

Sect. VII. Shrubs. — In my catalogue of the
plants of Chili I have noticed more than fifty-
three indigenous shrubs ; but I am convincedj if
an opportunity had been afibrded me of ex-
ploring a greater extent of couniry^ that I might
have more than doubled that number. Every
proviftce or district offers some variety in this
class of vegetables of more or less utility to the
inhabitants.

The bark and leaves of the shrubs called flm,
tJiiIco and uthiu, serve to dye black. The berries
of the tara (poinciana spinosa) and of the mayii,
furnish a black juice which is a good substitute
for ink. The guiacum, which in Chili never ac-
quires the size of a tree^ is employed in turnerv.
The cabinet-makers use^ for inlaving^ the wood
of several shrubs whose appropriate names I am
unacquainted withj but which, from their hard-
ness, are generally called ebony wood. The
wild rosemary and several other resinous shrubs,
are used as fuel in the furnaces for melting
copper. The wood of the coIUguaij (colliguaja,
gen. nov.) when burnt, exhales a very agreeable
smell like rosesj without producing tlie least in-
convenience.

The incense is not inferior to tluit br(ju<j;nt

VOL. I. k.

130

ifom Arabia, and is obtained from a shrub that
grows in the province of Coquimbo^ to which I
have given the name of ihuraria, gen. nov. It
usually grows to the height of four feet ; the
trunk is of an ash colour, from whence proceed
a great number of branches loaded with ovai
leaves that are alternate, four inches^ long, rough,
very succulent, and of a pale yellow ; the flow-
ers are small, Auiiiel-shaped, and of a light
green; the capsule is spherical and divided into
two cells, containing as many elongated seeds of
a brown colour. In the summer the incense
exudes through the pores of the bark around
the limbs in the form of little drops or tears, and
is collected in great quantities in the autumn,
when the leaves begin to fall. The globules are
hard, white, transparent and shining, and hare a
bitter taste and a highly aromatic smell. In the
hills near Valparaiso is found a species of sun-
flower with a ligr.eous trMLsk, which produces a
resinous substance rc'cmbliiig incense.

The trunk of the 'pyiia (puya. gen nov.) u
used for cork throughout Ciiili. This shrub
has a great resemblance to the auana. From its
loot issue three or four monstrous shoots of a
conical form, as large as a man's body, but not
e3,ceeding twenty inches in length ; these are
covered v/ith a spongy bark, disposed in the
manner of ^,ca]es; from the top of these shoots
?r trunk? proceed the leave? ; these are four feet

long, t'liriiished at the sides with crooked
prickles^ perlVctlv siniihir to those of the aiiaua :
from the cetitre of the leaves rises a stalky iiiiie
feet in length, ai.d three inches in diameter, co-
vered with a very hard green hark_, ench)siug a
whitish spungy substance resembling cork. At
the top the stalk is divided into a number of
branches covered with leaves, much smaller
than tliose of the ropt, and with yellow flowers,
four inches long, composed of six irregular
petals, which form together a large and beauti-
ful pyramid. This singular vegetable produces
no other fruit than a triangular capsule, con-
taining a great number of very small black
seeds. The nectaries of the flowers are always
tilled with honey, wdiich is eagerly sought after
by the children. The Araucanian provinces
furnish several varieties of this plant, from
whence the inhabitants collect great quantities
of honev.

Be?idc\s the kali of Alicant (salsosa kali) which
grovvs in great abundance on all the marshes of
the sea shore, a climbing shrub is found on tlie
coast of Coquimbo, from whence the soap-
boilers obtain large quantities of alkaline salt.

Chili produces seven species of the myrtle, all
estim.ibie for their beauty and fragrance. Bui
the mn-,t valuable is the one called by the In-
dians ri;<?</, and by the Spaniards murtilla. The
French, who found it in the Malouiue island^

32

have given io this shrub the name of lucet
muscat * \i usual! v grows to the height of four
feetj ar,d resembles much the myrtle of Ta-
renfuni^ its branches and leaves being placed
opposite each other in pairs ; the flowers are
white, have five petals, and produce a round or
red berrj^ the size of a small prune, marked
with four green points like the pomegranate.
This fruit contains several seeds that are flat
and brown, and has a very pleasant aromatic
smell, perceptible at a great distance. The
inhabitants obtain from it a very agreeable odo-
riferous liquor, which is preferred by foreigners
to the best muscat. It requires a long time to
ferment, but, when once clarified, is very clear,
and has a delicious taste. Before the arrival of
the Spaniards and the introduction of the grape,
the natives used io prepare vinous liquors from
several kinds of shrubs, at present neglected ;
among these were two or three species of the
Indian fig, or opuntia., called by the Chilians
tuna, whose fruit is very fine, and as large as
the best European figs.

A great number of shrubs, from time imme-

* Its fruit is of a beautiful appearance and very pleasant
taste; by beini^ ])ut iulo brandy with a little sugar, it forms a
very dt-iii ious !i(}uor, which has in a slight degree the smell
of ainbei- luvi of mask, by no means disagreeable even to
?hose uiio dislike those perfumes. — Vnnetty's f^oyage,
<'n. ji.

135'

morial, have been employed as efTicacious me-
dirines by the pli vsicians of the country. Among;
these is the cuUen (^psoralea glandulosa) well
known in Europe; it is coiisidered as a powerful
vermifuge^ and one of the best stomachics; the
leaves are used in infusion, and from their
aromatic taste are by many preferred to tea, and
occasionally serve as a substitute for it. This
shrub is indigenous to Chili, where it grows
spontaneously, and frequently attains the height
of a common sized tree. There is another va-
riety which is called the yelloio cuUcn, from the
colour of its leaves, which, like those of the
other, are disposed by threes, but are very thiii
and crisped, and, conglomerating towards the
end of the limbs, form at the top of the tree a
thick globular tuft that frequently causes the
branches to bend. Its flowers, like those of the
other species, are leguminous, the seed solitar-
and the leaves of both are vulnerary and very
balsamic*

* The alhaquilhi, in Indian cidlen, is a shrub whose leaves

tnilt an odour like tliat of the sweet basil, and produce a

balsam of great etiicacy in tite cure of wounds^ as I Mitnessed

in the ca-e of an Indian at In'(iuin, «ho had received a very

deep one in his neck, and 1 have uLo experienced the beneficial

eiVects of it myself. The flower is lar<;e, of a pule violet, and

<lisposed upon spikes, ai.d is one fd' ihat >pecies com{)rehende{l

in the class of ihe i<;^uniinous. Another shrub, callcil karillo,

is employed ior the sanie ])urpose. Thi^J is ditfercnt from the

'';ir;7/o of Tucumun, and its leave-, v, hi.,-|i are verv small

»

134

The guaicuru (plegorhiaa guaicuru, gen.
nov. ) grows in the northern provinces. The root
is rough and of a red coIouTj and is used as a
specific for all kinds of wounds ; it puts forth a
great number of leaves resembling those of the
myrtle, in the centre of which rises a stem of
about six inches in height, divided at the top
into many branches covered with leaves less than
the radical, and very small bell-shaped flowers
arranged in an umbellate order. Pernettv, in
his Voyage to the Malouine Islands, observes,
that this plant, particularly the root, is one of
the most powerful vegetable astringents known,
and is likewise very excellent for the cure of
ulcers and scrophulous complaints, and of great
service in the dysentery — properties ascertained
by the daily experience of the Chilians.

In the province of Quillota is a species of the
acacia, or mimosa, called by the Spaniards ja-
rilla, which affords a balsam of great elhcacy in
healii.'g wou:)ds. This balsam exudes from the
branches and the leaves, and renders them viscous
io the touch ; it exhales a very agreeable odour
vrhith is perceptible at a great distance. The
jarilla grows to about five feet ; the leaves are
winged and notched at the edges ; the flowers
are yelioAv and divided into five petals, and

emit a strong smell sometliing like that of honey, and are so
replete with balsiiin tiiat they appear to be covered with it. — ■
Trazier's f^oya/^e, vol. '.

135

produce a small berryj containing two or three
kidney-shaped seeils.

The expressed juice of the palqui (cestrum
nocturnum) is considered as the best known re-
medy for inflammatory fevers ; it is bitter and
of an unpleasant taste, but very cool and re-
freshing. The leaves of this shrub were for-
merly considered by the husbandmen as poison-
ous to cattle, but modern experiments have
proved the unfoundedness of this opinion. In
its appearance and smell the palqui resembles the
elder, but the leaves are single, alternate and ob-
long ; the flowers are corymblc, yellow, and
like those of the jessamin, and ihe berries oval
and of a purple colour. The wood is very brit-
tle, but is preferred to any other by the Indians
for the purpose of producing fire by friction ac-
cording to their custom. This is done by turning
rapidly between their hands a small stick of this
wood in a hole made in another piece of the same
kind.

Among the shrubs used for medicinal purposes
is also the cassia ''ena, \vhich is in no way difi'er-
ent from that of the Levant. It grows in abun-
dance near the source of the river Maypo. Sage
U likewise found in ojanv places, particularly in
tlie low grounds near the sea.

SccT. Vin. 7'm.s'.— The forests of Chili
oHer a. gT<.';i.t variety of trec^, the most of \Nhich

k4

136

never lose their foliage. Those kinds that are
known^ amount to ninet^'-seven^ and of these only
thirteen shed their leaves. Among the former
are mai) v that are remarkable for their fragrance,*
and are well deserving cultivation. Those that
are similar or vary but little from the European
treeS;, or which are to be met with in almost all
botanical gardens, I shall merely enumerate, re-
serving- my descriptions for such as are less
known, or distinguishable for some peculiarity.

The valleys of the Andes produce naturally
the white cedar and the red, called alerces, the
cypress, the pine, and the pellinos, which is a
species of oak. All these trees grow to a great

■* The woods are full of aromatic shrubs j such as severaj
kinds of myrtle, a species of laurel whose leaves are of the
smell of saffron, but more pleasant ; the l-oldu, the leaves of
which have the odour of incense, and the bark a biting taste
something like that of cinnamon ; it is a different tree, how-
ever, from that called tlie cinnamon, which produces a bark
similar to that of the East Indies. The leaves of the boldu
are like those of the greater laurel, but rather larger. Tliere
is also another tree called ppumo, a decoction of the bark of
which is very beneficial in the dropsy. The fruit is red, and
rL'sembles an olive, and the wood is very proper for ship-
building ; but the best tree for this ptui)ose is a species of
evergreen oak, very hard and durable, whose bark is a cork
equal to that of the cork tree. On the shares of tlie river '
Bio-bio are great quantities of cedar suitable for building, and
exc«'llent for -^jars. The bamboo reed is likewise very com-
mon in every part of the country. — Frazier's Voyage, vol. i.

137

height and size^ but none of tliem can compare
in that respect with the red* cedarj which, in
the Archipelago of Chiloe, grows so large, that
a single tree will frequently furnish from six to
eiglit hundred boards of twenty feet in length.

in the other parts of Chili are found the
willow,, the 7nollc, the Peruvian taper or cherry^
the wild orange, the jloripondio, the white cin-
namon, the carob tree, the maqui a species of
cornel, the luma a species of myrtle, the mul-
berry, the cliirimoya, and the tamarind. The
island of Juan Fernandes produces the red,
yellow, and white sandal, the yellow wood, or
fagus lutca, and a tree whose genus I am unac-
quainted with, that produces a species of pepper
inferior to that of the East Indies.

The /7z('/ge (salix Chilensis) differs from ihc
European willow in its leaves, which are entire,
slender, and of a yellowish green. This tree
yields annually a great quantity of manna; the
country people also make use of the bark,
which tliey believe possesses a highly febrifugal
quality.

Of the mollc there are two kinds, the common

* On my passage from Chili to Europe I observed that the
water which was in casks made of the red cedar, kept sweet
for a much loniier time tiian that in tiie others. This water
iiad ac(iiiire(i a red tinge, but tiie taste was not in the least
changed, and it appeared to be as fresh as if jusi taken fjoiu
tiie fountaiu.

138

(schinus mollis) which is usually found in the
marshes, and another called huigan (schinus
huigan). The last grows naturally in any soilj
and its leaves are very small. The inhabitants
prepare from the berries of these trees a kind
of red wine of an agreeable flavour but very
heating.*

The Peruvian taper, called in Chili quisco, is
of two kinds, the common (cactus Peruvianus)
and that of Coquimbo (cactus Coquimbanus)
the thorns of which are eight inches long, and
are used by the women for knitting-needles.

The Jloripoiidio ( datura aborea) is a tree much
esteemed for its beaufy and the fragrance of its
Sowers, which dijB'use an ambery odo\ir to a
great distance. f The trunk grows to the height
of twelve feet, but rarely exceeds six inches in
diameter, and is pithy within. The branches

* The Indians prepare a beverage from the molle as pleasant
and as strong as wine, il' not more so, and make use of the
solution of the gum as a purgative medicine. The sap, pro-
cured by making an incision in tlie bark, is said to be a cure
fur fihns, and a liquor obtained from the pith of the young
shoots, excellent for clearing and strengthening the eyes.
The fishermen of Concon and Valparaiso boil the bark, v^hich
produces a dye of the colour of burnt cotTee, with which they
Slain their nets. — Frazier's Voyage, vol. i.

t We have no tree in Europe that equals in beauty the
floripondio. When in blossom it far exceeds in fragrance any
•tf our trees, and one of them is sufficient to perfume a whole
^^irdeu. — Feuille, vol. ii,

139

unite at the top and form a spherical crown,
which produces a most delightful effect The
leaves are woolly and in the form of an elon-
g'ated heart eight or ten inches in length, by three
in breadth ; th(' flowers are turned back in the
form of a funnel, and are divided into five
pointed lobes ; they are white, from eight to tea
inches long, and three in breadth The fruit is
nearly round, of the size of an orange, and co-
vered with a greenish rind, containing a number
of oval seeds, but it is never eaten.

The wild orange tree (citrus Chilensis) is dis-
tinguished from the cultivated by its sessile
leaves, and its fruit, which is oval and not larger
than a filbert, but has the taste of a common
orange. This tree frequently grows to a con-
siderable height, and the wood is much esteem-
ed by turners on account of its beautiful yellow
colour.

The white cinnamon, called by the Chilians
hoighe^ and the Spaniards canello, may be found
in all ihe thickets of Chili. It is commonly
known bv the name of Winter's cinnamon, from
its being first introduced into Europe by Captain
Winter * The trunk of this tree frequently

'^ 'Tic lioi;;i:e of Ciiili, or canello of the Spaniards, is not
:\!-: .icL- w ;j1«!i hniiishes the white cinnamon of merchants, and,
i>f course, not the same with that (iescri'jcd hy Linnaeus under
Uic iv.vn'i '.' '.YiMtcruiUi cunella. The boighe of Chili is a real

140

rises to the height of fifty feet ; the branches
are placed opposite each other by fours, in the
form of a cross ; the leaves are large^, alternate,
and like those of the laurel ; the flowers are
white, quadripetal, and very odoriferous ; the
berries oval, and of a changeable black and blue.
Like the cinnamon of Ceylon, this tree produces
two barks ; the exterior of a greenish brown,
the other, when first taken from the tree, is of a
dirty white, but when dry, becomes of the colour
of the true cinnamon, which it very much re-
sembles in taste, and in Feuille's opinion might
serve as a succedaneum for it.* I am of the
same sentiment, particularly if proper attention
were paid to the cultivation of it, which would
probably tend to correct that sharp taste which
reuders it unpleasant. The natives employ the
ti-nber for building, but make no use of the bark.
The Araucanians from time immemorial have
regarded the boighe as a sacred tree; in iheir
religious ceremonies Ihey carry branches of it ia
their hands, and when they conclude a peace,
they present them in token of amity and alliance,

drymis, and appears to be (lie same with that described b\
the Chevalier de la iNlark, under the name of drymis punctata.
— iV. Trans.

* The bark of the boighe may be applied to the same
nst's as ihc ciiinanioii; its smell is similar, and it acquires the
sunie cok'ur when it is dried. — ftudllc, vol. iii.

141

as the ancient nations of Europe did those of the
olive.

The cai'ob tree of Chili (ceratonia Chilensis)
is distinguished from that of Europe (siliqua
Europea) by its thorns^ which are usually four
inches long, and so hard that th(;y are used by
the country people instead of nails. Its pod re-
sembles that of the European carob.

The maqui ( cornus Chilensis) does not usually
exceed ten or twelve feet in height, and the wood
is too brittle for use. The leaves are opposite,
heart-shaped^ denticulated, juicy, and three
inches long ; the flowers are while, with four
petals, and the berries purple. The Indians eat
these berries or wild grapes, which are very
sweet, and also prepare from them a beverage
called theca. The juice of the leaves is esteem-
ed a specific in the sore throat, and I am con-
vinced of its efficacy from my own experience.
There is a variety of this tree which bears a
white berry.

The liiina (myrtus luma) is distinguishable
from the common myrtle by its round leaves and
its height, which is frequently forty feet. Its
wood is the best of any known tor the use of
coach-makers, and large quantities of it are an-
niuilly exported to Peru for tliat purpose. The
Indians u^ake from the berries a pleasant wine,
in hii.;h repute as a t^.onuiVhic. 1 here is like-
v^i=e a'jutlier species of lofty myrtle (myrtus

142

maxima) which grows in the same places with
the luma, and frequently to the height of tieventy
feet; the wood of this is a|so very valuable.

Among those trees which produce the most
useful woods, besides the cedars already men-
tioned, are the cave?!, the quillai, the lithi, the
mai/ten, and the teimi.

The caven (mimosa caven) called by the Spa-
niards espino, resembles much the accacia folio
scorpiodis leguminosa of Egypt. The trunk is
winding and solid; the bark black and filled
with cracks ; the branches scattered and furnish-
ed with thorns ; the leaves disposed in pairs on a
common footstalk, and two inches in length ;
the flowers are flosculous and yellow, and form
around bouquet like those of the acacia nilotica,
but differ in being attached without peduncles to
the boughs, which they completely cover, and
their odour is so very fragrant that they are de-
nominated aromas. The pod is from three to
four inches long; it is cylindrical, of a dark
brovr'n, and contains many oval seeds marked
with a yellov/ stripe ; these are enveloped in an
astringent mucilage, from which a very good
ink is made. The caven grows spontaneously
In all the midland provinces, chieflv between the
S4th and 37th degrees of latitude, where lU
wood serves as fuel. It is more natural to the
richest soih, and frequently grows to the height
of an oak. The wood h hard- and compact, of

143

a dark brown veined with black and yellowv,
receives an excellent polish, and is used by
several kinds of artisans for the handles of their
tools.

The quillai (quillaja saponaria, gen. nov.*)
derives its name from the Chilian word quillcan,
io wash. The trunk of this tree exceeds the
middle height^, and is covered with a thick bark
of a greyish ash colour ; it divides itself at the
top into two or three branches, which produce
leaves like those of the ever-green oak ; its
flowers are also furnished with stamina, but the
seed is enclosed in a quadrangular capsule. The
wood of the quillai is very hard, and does not
easily split, for which reason the country people
make use of it for stirrups. But what renders
this tree really valuable is the bark, which, when
pulverized and mixed with a certain quantity of
water, foams like soap, and is efficacious in
cleansing woollens and other kinds of cloth. A
verv considerable commerce is carried on with
this bark; the Peruvians particularly import
every year great quantities of it.

The lithi (laurus caustica) a species of middle
sized laurel, is scattered over the whole country,

* The quillai is a tree whose leaves resemble those of the
ever-green oak. The bark ferments in water like soap, and
is preferalle to it for the washinGf of woollen cloth, but is apt
*o jiv2 linen a yellowish hue.— Frt^.iit'r'i Voyage, vol. i.

144

Its leaves are oval^ wrinkled^ an inch in length,
and of a dark green ; the flowers, though much
smaller, and the fruit resemble those of the
common laurel. The effluvium from this tree,
especially in summer^ produces painful pustules
and swellings on the hands and faces of those
who stop beneath its shade. This effect is various,
however, with various persons : there are some
who are very little, if at all, incommoded by it,
while others, who merely pass by the tree, are
severely affected ; though never attended with
fatal consequences, it is? nevertheless very trouble-
some. Great precaution is requisite in cutting
the tree, as its viscous juice is extremely caustic ;
but when dry, the wood loses all its injurious
qualities, and is employed for building. Its
colour is a handsome red, veined with brown, and
it acquires, after having been for some time
under water, a very great degree of hardness,
which might render it very useful in ship build-
ing.* There is another large tree which I have
reason to believe is truly poisonous ; it usually
grows in the vicinity of Ihe sea, is called the

* The lithi is a tree very proper for building ships ; it Is
till wi'ili great care when it is green, but when dry, particu-
larly if it has been for some time under water, the wood
bteomes ahiiost as hard as iron. It is employed by the natives
iu huikliiig their houses. Its colour when fnst cut is wliite,
but when it is dried and seasoned it changes to a vcrv hand-
some red. — Fcuiilc's Jcurv.

145

hollcn, and is one of the most tcautiTul trees of
Chili. The physicians, however, in critical
cases, direct (he buds to be taken in powder not
exceedino; half a scruple, as a powerful emetic.
The sap of this tree is a yellow inclining to green,
l.nit is not lacteous. Its flowers and fructifica-
tion I shall not pretc! d to describe, never having
seen it in a flowering state.

The maijten (maytenus boaria, gen. nov. ) is
a beautiful tree, and always ret:iins its foliage.
It grows in the same places with the lithi, and is
an antidote to its poison. It is rarely more than,
thirty feet high; its branches, which are nume-
rous, and commence at the height of eight feet
from the root, form a very beautiful top ; the
leaves are denticulated and pointed, about two
inches in length, and of a brilliant green ; the
flowers are monopetalous, bell-shaped, and of a
purple hue, but so small as not to be distinguish
able at a little distance. These (lowers entirely
cover the young shoots, and are succeeded by a
small round capsule containing a single black-
seed. The w 'od is very hard, and cf an orange
colour spotted with red a?id green. The cattle
are very fond of the leaves, and will forsake any
herbage for them ; and \verc it not for the
hsdgi'3 and ditches with which the inhabitants
surround the young trees the species wouh^ pro-
bablv before this time have been destroved.

The toiio (temus moscata, gen. nov.) is a tree

'VOL. I, L

146

of verj thick foliage. The leaves are alternafe,
oval^ smoothj and of a bright green. There are
two varieties of this tree^ distinguished by their
yellow or white flowers^ which are divided into
eighteen narrow petals of two or three inches in
length. The seeds resemble cofTeej and are not
unlike it in taste^ but have a certain bitterness
that renders them unpleasant. The bark is
yellow, the wood grey, very hard, and much
used in various manufactures.

The patasua (cinodendron patagua, gen. nov.)
is much valued for its flowers, which are small,
but resemble in shape and smell the lily. The
leaves are placed opposite in pairs, lanceolated.
serrated, and of a bright green. The trunk fre-
quently grow s to such a size that four men can
scarcely encircle it with their arms ; the wood is
white and easily wrought, but held in little esti-
mation.

Chili, in comparison with those countries in
America situated between the tropics, produces
but few trees whose fruits are edible ; the prin-
cipal of those are the coconut, the pelaien, the
gcxiiin, the pcumo, aijd the liicuma.

In the provinces of Quillota, Calchagua, and
Maule arc large forests of the coconut tree
(palma Chilensis). This species differs from
the others oT the same genus in the size of its
fruit, Avhich docs not usually exceed that of a
wahuit. The trunk is about the height and

147

diameter of a date tree^ and its growth is very
slow ; it is without bruaches and perfectly cy-
lindrical^ but when young- is covered with the
footstalks of leavesj which fall olF as the tree in-
creases in size. The leaves and flowers are ana-
log-ous to those of the palm ; the last are mo-
noical, and disposed in four clusters which hang
around the tree. When in the bud thev are en-
closed within a spath, or woody slieath, which
opens as the flower expands. When the fruit
begins to form,, the spath separates itself into two
hemispherical parts of about three feet long by
two broad. Each of these bunches produces
more than a thousand coconuts, and iioihing can
be (uorc beautiful than to see one of these trees
covered with fruit, shaded by the upper branches
which bend over in the form of an arch.

The fruit, like the tropical coconut^ has two
coverings ; the outer is luird externally and of
a green colour, which gradually changes into a
yellow, and the inside is filled with a kind of
filaceous wool ; the interior shell is woody^
smooth and round, and so hard that il would bo
difficult for the nut to germinate v.ere it not for
the two stems v/hich are attached to the upper
part of the shell, and separated from the nut
only by a thin pellicle. The kernel is spherical,
a little hollow in the middle, vhice, and of a
very agreeable taste, and w hen fresh, contains a
milky liquor wliieh is pleasant and refrigeralorv.

L 'u

148

A great number of these nuts ave exported evefy
year to Peru, where they are highly esteemed.
The oil obtained from thein by expression is well
tasted aiid much used. The country people
make use of the sheaths as bags for little ai tides
of dresSj and with the leaves manufacture baskets
and thatch their cabins. The buds, if cut when
young, yield great quantities of sap, which is
thick, and furnishes a more agreeable sirup than
that of the sugar caue ; but the tree commonly
dies after this operation.

The date is fji.nd in the province of Copi-^po;
but I know not wiicther it is indigenous or wa**
brought thither from some other place. The
islands of Juan Fernandez produce a species of
palm called clionta. The trunk, like that of
most other palais, is hollow, and the wood is
black and as hard as ebony. Another tree,
which I have called «;.'?] e/r; mur,a, resembles the
palm, and grows in great quanliiics in the marshes
of INiaule ; the leaves proceed directly from
the top of the trunk, and arc large and green
like those of the banana ; the fniit is disposed in
four clusters like those of tlic vine, and the re-
semblance is so perfect, that were it not for a
sharp and astringent taste, it juigat readily be
.mistaken for a grape.

Thi^ p^hiiCii (pinns Arauciina) called b_;' the
-Spaniards ///iO de la lie) ra, re-eiiibles the fir marc
than the pine, although in sonic respects it dillers

149

from both. It is the most beautiful of the trees
of Chili, and lvi'ows spontaneously in the Arau-
caiiian })rovinces, but is cultivated in all other
parts of the roiintry, and, from its properties,
partaki'S of tlie nature of the pine, the ehesnut,
and file tru-kincense. The trunk is frequently
e!,'!::hty feet in heii2;ht, and its usual circumference
is eight ; the Avood is very resinous, and of a
veliovvisli hrov.n, and the bark smooth and green-
ish; the tree a> it increases in height shedding all
the little branches and leaves with which it is
covered while joung. When it attains the half
of its growth it puts forth, in a horizontal di-
rection, four durable limbs opposite to each other
in the form of a cross; the four following
branches are disposed in the same manner but
shorter, and at the distance of four or five feet
from the first ; the others decrease in lensTth
in proportion as thev approach the top, which
terminates in a point. The extremities of all
these branches incline perpendicularly, and give
to the tree the form of a quadrangular pyramid.
This pyramidal ;^hape becomes still more perfect
from the number of little boughs which project
laterally from the principal branches in a cruci-
form manner, decreasing gradually from the
coinmon axis. The principal branches as well
a^ the boughs, are set round with st»ff leaves
cnrhased in each other, of about three inches
long by QiiQ broad ; these are heart-shaped, eon-

150

vex above^ very shining, and so hard that they
appear like wood. The flower is amentaceous or
conical, and perfect] v resembles that of the pine ;
the fruit is of the size of a maa's head ; it is
smooth, spherical, ligneous, suspended to a very
short pedicle, and divided witliinby two thin shells
irito several cells, which contain the kernels in
pairs; the kernels are about two inches in length
and as large as the little finger, of a conical
form, a transparent white, and covered with a
pellicle like that of the che&nut, which they re-
semble in taste, and, though rather harder, are*
eaten in the same manner. The gum exudes
through the bark, is yellowish, and its odour
very pleasant. f

* Some of the Quarani tribes reduce them to a flour, and
in tliat state preserve tliein as food. (Conient. de Cabeze dd
Vaca). In Cliile and to the south they are preserved by boi!-
iiiu', and prepared in this liiaiiuer, says Falkner, tliey have
soniethin;^ of a nic.diness, and taste very like a boiled
■ahiiond, but not so oily. — E. E.

t Tiii. is the dvfil-ry '>'' Chill of M. de la Marh. This tree
is not a pine, as M. Molina supposes ; it is a new genus, well
detined by its friictification, and clearly distinguishable from
;.iiy of those tl;?<t are laiown. la fad, b;^sides it-> flowers
bi-ing difrci'j], they have this very singular discrimination, that
they urow upon catkins, with no other pericarpiuni than what
i, pr(,:;ur';d by tiio g^ueralive organs — tiie forked appendages
th.it !( rminate the props of *he slan)ina forming the pcricar})iuin
of tilt- ir.aie cuiLin, and ihe two valves of each stigma that of

151

The gci:uiii (g'cviiina avellina, gen. nov.)
called lay (he Spaniards axeUano, or the hazle,
from the appearance of its fruity grows to a
middle height in marshes and in the valleys of
the Andes, Its leaves are winged and terminated
vri<h one dissimilar like those of the ash, but the
leaflets arcroundcr^ more solid, slightly denticu-
lated^ and disposed by four or five couple upon
a common pedicle. Tiie flov/ers are white,
quadripetal^ and attached by pairs to a spike
which proceeds from the hollow part of the
leaves. The fruit is round, nine lines in diame-
ter, and covered with a coriaceous shell, which
is at first green, afterwards becomes yellow, and
at length black ; the kernel is divided into two
lobes, and in taste resembles the European
walnut.

'^i\w. pcunio fpeumus, gen. nov.) is a tree con-
sisting of four very dilTerent species, and a great
number of varieiies ; all of these are tall and
covered with stiiT sn'omatic leases, the fruit is
like the olive, but a little smaller, having a ker-

Tiie fruit is also singuUu; it con<^ist- of lurge oval rounded
cones, coi!ij-,-j>cvl of ii grout iinuib.T of elongntcd fee(!-, fixed
naked iiround o\w rouunoii axis. 7"ue>^e seeds, of course, arr
Dot lo l»c foui'.d in pairs in the liollou of each >;(ale of the cone
ys in Ihe pine, jiiice tli;it of the dombova !i,is no scales. — Fr..

The Sn;!ni:(ids c.i!l the resin of llii> tree iricen---. -xn^ wf it

Mv 5i.ic!h--£. E. Fa'hi:^r.

it

152

nel more or less hard^ arcording- to the species.
The flo\yers are \vhite or of a rose colour, with
six j^etais shorter than the caljx. The first spe-
cies (peumus rubra) has alternate leavesj oval^
petiolated, entire and large, like those of the
hornbeam, and hears a r* d fruit ; the second
(peumus alba) has denticulated leaves ai;d a
white fruit; the third (peumus manm-osa) las
sessile leaves in shape of a heart, aiid the fruit is
terminated by a kind of nipple ; the fourth
(pe.inius bold us) bears o\al leaves, placed op-
posite in pairs, about four inches in length,
v\'0()lly beneath, and of a dark green. The fruit
of this last species is smaller than that of the
others and almost round;, and the kernel so hard
that the inhabitants make their rosaries of it.
They also give to the fruit the name of boldo,
and use the 'vhells to perfume the vessels in which
they put their wine. The fruits of the three
f rst kinds are eaten ; to prepare them for that
purposs^ iht'j are merely dipped in warm v aicij
as a greater degree of lieat would burn and
render them bitter. The interior pulp is N^hitCj
butlery, snd of an agreeable taste, and the
kernel contaiiis much oil, whicii might be used
both for lamps and for eating. The bark serves
for tanning leather, and is also used in dying.

TliC lucurna ( lucunia, gen. nov. ) comprehends
five difTiuent species and manv varieties, all of
tiiem large trccs^ with stiff leaves resembling the
3

153

laurel. The flowers liave a great number of
stamina, and produce a fruity which, in size and
tastr, has some similarity tolhc peach ; the out-
side skin is vidlowish and the pulp sweet, and
usuilly contains one or two kernels of an irre-
g'lilar shape. Two kinds of lucuma are cul-
tivated— the lucuma Wfera and the turlnnata.
The bifera bears twice a year, early in summer
and in autumn ; but the autumnal fruits alone
produce kernels ; these are two, and have the
appearance of chesnuts. The fruit is round and
a little sloped, but less so than that of the tur-
binata^ which lias tlie form of a whipping-top.
No< withstanding both these fruits ripen upon
the tree, it is ncccssarv to keep them some time
in straw, which ameliorates them and corrects
their natural roughness, and by this means they
acquire that pleasant taste which renders them
so much esteemed.

Of the wild lucuma tliree species are known
in Chiii by the names of helloia, keulc, and
dm guar.

Tlie hdlota (Ir.cuina YalparaidisPa) grows in
great quantities in the environs of Valparaiso^
and is distinguislied from the others by its leaves,
vliJcIi are opposite, and its round or oval fruit,
which IS tisually bitter.

Tlie keidc (lucuma keule) which frequently
grows to tiie height of a hundred ^Gci, lias oval
I'U^es libotit six inches long and of a brilliant

154

green. This irce usually bears a grenl qiianliir
of fruit which is perfectly round and of a shining-
yellow, forming a fine contrast with the beautiful
\erdurc of the foliage.

The clwgner (lucuma spinosa) has a trunk
about thirty feet high ; the branches are thorny,
the leaves oval and sessile^ and the fruit resembles
that of the keule^ but has a more agreeable taste.
The wood is hard, of a yellow colour^ and much
■valued by cabinet-makers.

The different kinds of pulse, flowers, garden
herbs, vines, and fruit trees, which the Spaniards
have brought from Europe, thrive as well in
Chili as in their native country.*

The melons, of which there are many kinds,
are almost always long ; the rind is very thin,

* Eacli house lias a garden in -ivliicli may be fouiul ali kinds
of fruit trees, which produce c\ cry year siicii abun(iance of fruit
:Iiat Ilie iiiliabitant,-; pluck off a great part of it ^^hen it first
forms, as otherwise it wouhl not only endanj^er breaking the
limbs, but wouhl never come to maturity. The fruits are not
inferior in <]U:ility 1o those of Europe, except the rlic-^nut \^ Isic h
is much Ifss, Init in pl;ice of this there are many other kinds
of fruit unknown in o-.ir chmate. — FcuiHi', voh ii.

All the liou'cs in Conuliiibo h'lve large gardens surrounded
i^ith walls, in whi^h, in t'leir season, :\ye produ'cd apples,
pears, prr.nes, delifiov;^ cherries, nut-, almonds, olives, lemons,
orapi^fs. ;»ome;:^ranate::, fir;';, crapes, and i!)any other fruit^',
pec'jiiav io the roiintry, not known in {>n()pe. Al! the^e
jVuits aje very od.oriff'rous, U'-' I huve myc-flf evperiou'-ed.--

155

and the flavour excellent. Among them the
musk melon and the scintti, two marked and
constant \ arietiesj are preferred to any other ;
and 1 have seen nianv that were two feet in length.
The melons begin to ripen in the month of De-
cember, and continue imtil the end of Mar.
These last, wliich I have called winter melons
(invernizi) are g-reen, and will keep perfectly
well during the v/inter if they are placed in a
situation where the air may have free access to
Iheni.

The inhabitants cultivate seven species of
water melons of an excellent kind, but the most
esteemed is that called pellata, which has a thin
rind like the skin of an apple. This fruit is a
native of Jamaica, from whence the Spaniards •
imported it into Europe, but it is probable that
the cuclnigna., which is of the same species of
an excellent flavour, v. as cultivated in Chili long
before the arrival of the Spaniards.

I have already spoken of the great fertility of
the soil in the production of different kinds of
grain ; and shall merely observe in this place
that the species of wheat most generally cul-
tivated is one without beard, called mutjca; this
is sosved in August, and the crop reaped in De-
cember, ilenip and fiax grow extremely well in
Chili; but as the exportation of it is rigorously
prohibited, the inhabitants raise no more than is
wanted for inicrnal consumption,
i

156

The vine produces wonderfully, and the soil
appears to be peculiarly favourable to it, as the
thickets are filled with wild vines (the seeds
havinii; been carried thither by birds) from whose
grapes the country people obtain a very good
wine ; but the cultivated vines produce delicious
grapes of the best quality. From the borders
of Peru to the river of Maule^ the mode of cul-
tivating the vines is by raising; the sets to the
height of th.ee or four feet by nieans of props
or forked stakes which support them ; but
beyond that river they are planted upon tiie de-
clivities of hills^ and reclined on the ground.
Tile grapes in the highest estiinaticn arc those
that grow upon the shores of the Itata. The
wine obtained from them is the best in Chili ; it
is called Conception wiiie^ and is usually red, of
a g-ood body, an excellent flavour, and not in-
ferior to the first wines in Europe.* A great
quantity of this wine is annually exported to
Peru, but it loses much of its pleasant flavour

from being put into casks that are daubed over
on the irihide with a kind of mineral pitch,

* Tiie country is full of Iiill.s, with fine vinevaicls on their
lops', wliic'i |)ro(iuce very excellent wi'.ies. — Feuillo, vol. ii.

'i'iie wines of '^t. Jago are of .-eve ral hinds, and altliough
inh iidr to those of Conception, aie very well tasted, an i of
a ;iood body. — American GazetUcr ; article Chili.

That wine \\i.ic;i is exported from Clsili to Paraguay, is
r^:d, thick, and sweet, but has a certam liarshness. — E. E.

Dohrizhojer, T, 2. p. 22g.

157

The miiscadel wine is^ acording to Ulloa, of
as good a quality as the best of Spain.* These
wines are in general very strong, and great quan-
tities are used for distilling brandy. The vintage
tiikes place in the months of April and May.
About twenty years since some vines of a black
muscadel grape, of an excellent quality, were
discovered in the valleys of the Andes, aiicl from
thence transplanted into the other provinces. As
these vallevs had never been inhabited, and until
that time no such grape had been known in any
other part of the country, it is difficult to deter-
mine whether it is a native of Chili or brought,
from Europe. It has besides some peculiarities
that distinguish it, as the leaves being more in-
dented, and the clusters perfectly conical, while
the grapes grow so close to each oiher as to render
it impossible to detach one without crushing
several.

All the European fruit trees yield abundantly,
and their fruit is as fine in Chili as in their native
country, f The greater part are also remarkable

* Chili has in no less abundiuicc ^[riipes of various hinds,
and aniouij them those whicii produce a wine more iiighlv
vahied in Peru than any other; it is mostly red, and a mus-
cadel is also made, which in its smell and the deliciousness of
its taste surpasses any kind known in Spai;!. — Ulloa s Voyage.

t The plain of Quillcta is \e\y p!ea'a;;t. V.'o were there at
the time of the cairiivai, which occur; in tliat couuMv in the
boijinuing of autumn, and were much surpri-ed to -^ep a treat

158

for their mlmbers and the increase of their size.
la the southern provinces are forests of apple and
quince trees from three to four leagues in extent,
from whence proceeds that great variety of
apples, the fruit of many of which is excellent.
Among these, however, those of Quillota are the
most in estimation. The quinces are remarkable
for their size and goodness;* like those of
Europe they have an acid and astringent taste,
hut if suflfered to attain perfect maturity, and
not gathered until the end of autumn, they are
very sweet, and are called in the country corcia.

quantity of all kinds of the best European fruit trees which
have been transplanted thither. They all produced in abun-
dance, particularly the peaches, of which there were large
thicktts ; while the only attention paid to their cultivation was
by introducing some small streams of water among them, from
ihe river Chile, to supply the want of rain during the summer,
•—Frazier's Voyage, vol. i.

Pears and apples grow so naturally in the bushes, that it is
diflicult to couccive, on seeing such quantities of them, how it
is possible for these trees to have multiplied since the conquest
to such a degree, if it is true, as is said, that they were not iu
the countrv before that period. — Fraxicr's Foynge, vol. i.

From tliese wild apples the Indians made a kind of eider for
present use, not knowing how to ferment it so as to make it
keep. — E. E. — Falkner.

* What I most ailniired was the size of the quinces, for
tlicy arc larger than a mans head. But what was no Itss au
object ol surprise, was tiie little accouni made of them by the
iiihabitiinls, \vi)o sulleicd them to rot upon the ground without
pri\iiig iujv olttiiliun to collecting \hcnu~~FfuUli', vol. iii.

159

It is a well known fact that this fruit loses its
astringency by being allowed to remain a Umg
time upon the tree ; but in this country they pre-
tend that the autumnal rains and the slight
white frosts of that season are necessary to per-
fect it. There is likewise a particular species of
the quince, improperly called lucuma. The
fruit is very different from that of the real lu-
cuma, and is always, sweet, of a conical shape,
and in a small degree umbilical ; the skin, as well
as the pulp, is of an orange colour, and tlietree
is a real quince tree.

The peaches amount to fourteen species, and
frequently produce fruit of more than sixteen
ounces weiglit. Among the duracuies, that kind
called in the country albcrcliigos, is the most ia
estimation ; the fruit is Icirge and very excellent,
tlic pulp is of a reddiih white, and the stone per-
fectly red. The tree, like the fig, bears twice a
year ; in the month of Janizary it yields large
a,nd pulpy peaches, and in April a small fruity
resemblinii," the almond, of a delicious taste,
called aliucndrucjios. The pears and cherries
[)roduce also twice a year, but the latter growth
rarely obtains perfect maturity.* Oranges, le-

■ The fruit trees brovigUt troai Europe thrive very well in
That'coLUitry, whose climate is .^o I'.ivoiuable as rcs;)ects vege-
tation tliat the trees bear fruit thoie the uiiole year. I have
rVt-quently seen in the same oi\:;:;iic', v.hcil is common in or,.ii-
vjeries, the tVuit in all states, i;i !ltc l>a;h in liower, green, and
;>e:l'e(;llv ri|)e at the *a ne Unv:. — Fr^zicr'j -''oyagi', vol, i.

160

mons, and citrons, of whicli there are many va-
rieties in Chili, grow every where in the open
fiehiSj and their vegetation is not inferior to that
of the other trees. Besides the common kind, a
species of small lemon is much cultivated, the
fruit of which is about the size of a walnut,
and very juicy. The leaves are small a? d re-
semble those of the orans^e more than the lernon,
a very delicious sweetmeat is made from t. e fruity
and the juice is much used in inflammatory
fevers.

The olive* grows very well; particularly in
the vicinity of St. Jago, wS'ie I have seen
trees of three feet in diameter and of a pro-
portional height. Medlars, service apples, the
three-grained medlar and the jujube, are the only
European fruits at present unknown in Chili.

*The first olive Mas canied from Andalusia to Peru inl560,
by Aatonio de Ribera, of Lima. — E. E.

P. Manuel Rodriguez, Ind. Chron-.

101

CHAP. IV,

Worms^ Insects, Reptiles, Fishes, Birds, and
Quadrupeds,

Chili is not quite so abundant in animals as the
other countries of America. The reptiles^ for
instance, are but few^, and the indigenous qua-
drupeds do not exceed thirty-six species. The
classes of worms, of fishes, and of birds are
those that contain the greatest number of species
and of individuals. From my observations,
however, I am led to believe that insects are less
abundant than in Italy, and that Chili produces
a greater number of worms, particularly the
marine kind ; the whole coast of the Pacific
Ocean being: filled with zoonhvtes and molius-
cas, many of which are wholly unknown to na-*
turalists.

Sect. I. MoUiiscas. — The pyura (pyura^
gen. nov. ) is a molliisca^ remarkable for its
shape and its mode of dwelling. This animal,
which scarcely merits the name, is about an inch

■VOL, I, M

^ 162

in diameter, and of the shape of a pear, or it
may more properly be compared to a small fleshy
purse, of nearly a conical form, filled with salt
water ; it is of a red colour, and is furnished on
the upper part with two very short trunks, one of
which serves for a mouth, the other as an anus.
Between these are two sliining black points
which I suppose are the eyes. On the strictest
examination 1 have not been able to discover any
organs or intestines separate from the flesh com-
posing the body of this animal, which is smooth
on the outside, and within mammiform. It is
not, however, destitute of sensibility, as, on
being touched or drawn from its cell, it eject*
with violence from both trunks the water which
it contains. Several of tlicsc animals live to-
gether in a kind of coriaceous hive ; this is of
a different form in diflerent places, and appears
to be completely closed on the outside, but with-
in is divided into ten or more cells by means of
strong membranes. Each individual has his
separate cell, where he lives a recluse life with-
out any visible communication with his compa-
nions, and in which he is compelled to remain,
though there is no perceptible ligament that at-
taches him to it. From this circumstance it
may fairly be presumed that these animals are
hermaphrodites of the first species, or such a^
produce their like without coupling.

The hives, which serve as habitations for

163

these moUiiscas^ resemble alci/oniums, and are
attached to rocks, covered hy the water, from
whence thcv are torn by the waves and driven on
the sliore. The inhabitants of Chili cat the
pyures, either boiled or roasted in the shells, and
when fresh they have the taste of a lobster.
Great quantities of thcni are dried annually and
sent to Cujo, where they are in great request. I
believe the animal which Kolben, in his descrip-
tion of the Cape of Good Hope, calls the sea
fountain, is of the same family.

Various species of the holothuria, especially
the holofiiuria pliy salts, or the galley, are fre-
queniiy found upon the shore, whither the3^ are
driven by the waves. Tliis mollusca, called by
several authors the sea nettle, from its producing
an inflammation of the skin when touched, is of
the shape and size of an ox-blalder filled with
air. It is furnished within with a great number
of branching feelers, or tentaculs, intertwined
with each other, in the centre of which is placed
the mouth, of a very deformed appearance.

These tentaculae are of several colours, red,
purple or blue; the skin that forms the vesicle or
bladder is transparent, and appears to consist of
diflerent longitudinal and transverse fibres, within
which a peristaltic motion is perceptible. The
top of this bladder is ornamenled with a mem-
brane in (he shape of a crest, wliich serves the
animal as a sail, and cont las notliing excepiiug

a little clear water, confined to one of its extre-
mities by a membrane or diaphragm, which pre-^
vents it from spreading throughout the whole
cavity of the bladder.

Besides the common cuttle fish ( sepia octo-
podia) three other singular species are found in
the sea of Chili. The first, the ungulated cuttle
fish (sepia unguiculata) is of a great size, and
instead of suckers, has paws armed with a double
row of pointed nails, like those of a cat, which
it can, at its pleasure, draw into a kind of slieath„
This fisli is of a delicate taste, but is not very
common. The second I have called the tuni-
cated cuttle fish (sepia tunicata) from its body
being covered with a second skin, in the form of
a tunic; this is transparent, and terminates in twO'
little semicircular appendages like wings, which
project from either side of the tail. Many won-
derful aad incredible stories are told by sailors
of the bulk and strength of this fish, but it h
certain that it is frequently caught of one hun-
dred and fifty pounds weight on the coast of
Chilij and the flesh is esteemed a great delicacy*
The third is the cuttle fish v,ith six feet (sepia
hexapodia}. This species, is of a very singular
figure, and when seen in a state of quiescence,
appears much more like a broken piece of the
tmall branch of a tree than an animal. Its body
does not exceed six inches in length, and is of
the si^s of a my.ii's finger, divided into four or

loa

'five articulations decreaeing in size towards tlic
tail. Its feet are usually drawn up near the
iiead, but when extended have the appearance of
so many floating roots ; like those of other cuttle
•fish, they are furnished with suckers, but so
small as to be scarcely discernible. The head is
•misshapen, and supplied M^ith two antennae, or
trunks. The black liquor is contained in a little
bladder or vesicle, common to all the genus, and
is very good for writing. The animal, when
taken in the naked hand, produces a slight de-
gree of numbness, which is not, however, at-
tended with any disagreeable consequences.

Of the urchins, or sea-eggs, there are several
species, but the principal are the white and the
black. The white urchin (echinus albus) is of
a globular form, and about three inches in dia-
ineter; the shell and spines are white, but the
interior substance is yellowish, and of an excel'
J.ent taste. The black urchin (echinus niger) is
i\ little larger than the white, and of an oval
form; the exterior and the eggs are black ; it
is called the devil's hedge-hog, and is never
eaten.

Of the cisss of vermes, or worms, the order
of testacei are most abundant in Chili ; the sea
5hore being covered with all khnh of shells, of
wliiili several hills are formed, from whence the
inhabitants coilect great quantities for lime. I
;iave no doubt that among them might be dis-

166

covered not ohIv some of a new species, but of a
new genus; but as the limits of my work will
not permit me to go into a full description of
them^ 1 shall connne ra\self to those kinds that
are the most esteemed and made use of by the
inhabitants.

Oysters are found in many places on the coast;
there are several varieties^ but the largest and
best are taken near Coqiiimbo. Escallops are
found in the same places with the oyster, not
only those with convex, but those with flat
shells.

The principal species of the muscle are the
common, the pearly muscle (mytilus margariti-
fer) the large and small Magellanic muscle, the
chorus, and the black muscle. The large Ma-
gellanic muscle is six inches long and three
broad, the shell is covered on the outside with a
brownish skin, beneath which it is of a beautiful
sky blue, crossed transversely with purple stripes,
and wilhin is of a rich mother of pearl colour
striped with red. The little Magellanic muscle
is nearly of the same colour, but of rather a
more oval form. Both these kinds commonly
contain some small peads, of little lustre ;
those, on the contrary, that are found in the
pearly muscle, are of a fine water, but almost
always very small.

The chorus (myfilus chorus) is seven inches
long by three and a half broad. The skin is of

167

a deep blue, but ibe shell, when stripped of it,
is of a sbiniiii.'^ white incliuing" to blue; the
muscle itself is very white and excellently tasted.
It is principally found on the island of Quiri-
quina, and the coast of Araucania. The black
muscle (mytilus ater) is nearly as large as the
chorus, the shell is rough and of a dark blue,
and the fiesh black and never eaten.

PVesh water muscles are also found in abund-
ance in the rivers and the ponds. I have noticed
three species of them, known by the names of
dolliim, pellu, and 2ithif, but they are all of an
insipid and disagreeable taste.

The tellinae are also common in Chili, par-
ticularly the maijcOy a species of rayed tellens,
or sun-beam, and the clialgua, which is entirely
white.

The tliaca (chama thaca) is a cockle that is
nearly round, about four inches in diameter ;
the shell is striated longitudinally, and spotted on
the outside with white, yellow, and purple ; the
inner part is of a beautiful yellow, and the flesh
excellent eating. The madia (solen macha) is
a species of razor-shell, a genus of shell- fish
so called fr. m their form. It is six or seven
inches long, and variegated with sky-blue and
brown. Both those kinds bury themselves in
the sand, from whence the fishermen take them
in great numbers.

The rocks of Chiloe aflord a residence to a
M 4

168

species of pholades (pholus Chilonsisj which iha
inhabitants call comes. The shell is bivalve, but
has some cretaceous appendages on the upper
part^ and is often six inches long and two
broad.

Barnacles of various species are found iu
abundance upon all the coast. Of these, one
called the parrot-bill ( lepas psittacus ) is much
esteemed b_y the inhabitants. From ten to twentj'
of these animals inhabit as many small separate
cells, formed in a pyramid of a cretaceous sub-
stance. These pyramids are usually attached to
the steepest parts of rocks^ at the water's edge^,
and the animal derives its subsistence from the
sea by means of a little hole at the top of each
cell The shell consists of six valves, two large
and four small; the large ones project externally
in the form of a parrot's bill, from whence the
animal has received its name. When detached
from the rocks they are kept alive in their cells
for four or five days, during which time they oc-
casionally protrude their bills as if to breathe.
They are of different sizes, though the largest do
not exceed an inch in length, and are very white,
tender, and excellent eating.

Of the buccinum and the murex there are like-
wiso a great number of species. One of the
latter, the loco (murex loco) is highly esteemed.
It is very white, and of a delicious taste, but
rather tough, and in order to render it tender^ il

169

is generally beaten with a small stick before it is
cooked. The shell is oval, and covered with
knots or tuberosities ; the animal is about four
or live inches in lengthy and near the neck has a
small vesicle which contains a few drops of a
purple liquor.

As far as I have had it in my power io ob-
servCj there are no naked snails or slugs in Chilij
tut those that are covered with a shell are very
numerous in all the thickets. One of the most
curious species is found in the vicinity of Con-
ception; 1 have called it the serpentine, from its
skin being hard and covered with scales like that
©f a serpent. The shell is conical, and larger
than a turkey's egg ; it is slightly striated, and
of a whitish grey colour, and the edge of the
aperture is turned back and forms a border of a
beautiful red.

Sect. II. Cruatckcous Fishes and Insecls. —
Thirteen difterent species of crabs and craw-iish
have been discovered on the sea-coast of Chili,
and there are four kinds inhabiting the fresh
waters.*' Anioag the crabs the most remarkable
are the tallcuna^ the xaha, the apancora^ the hairij,
the a ant oil a, -c.nd the croxcned.

The ialicuna (cancer talicuna) has a round,
smooth, and convex shelly about four inches in
<iiameter. The claws are denticulated, the head
lind the eyes very protrusive, and the belly is al-

170

most entirely covered with the tail. When alive
it is of a dark brown, but becomes red when
boiled.

The xfiiva (cancer xaiva) has a shell that is
nearly spherical, about two inches and a half in
diameter, furnished with spines upon the edges.

Theapancora (cancer apancora) is larger than
the talicuna. The shill is oval and wholly den-
ticulated^ the claws are hairy, and the tail of a
triangular form and very long.

The /uihvj crab (cancer setosus) is of the size
of the preceding, and is entirely clothed with
rough hair like bristles ; the back shell is in the
shape of a heart, and covered with protuber-
ances. The beak is divided and reverted, and
furnished with a great number of hairs.

TliQsan folia ( cancer santolla) surpasses all the
others in its size, and the delicacy of its taste.
Its shell is orbicular, convex, and of a coria-
ceous consistence ; it is covered with large spines,
wiiich are easily detached when it is roasted, and
the claws are very long and large, and covered
with a wrinkled skin.

The crorcned crab (cancer coronatus) is fur-
nished with a shell nearly oval, of about four
itiches a;:d a half in diameter, with an excres-
cence in the centre repre-enting a mural crown.

Crawfish ; re no less abundant on the Chilian
cQ'i.d. Lord Anson monMons having caught
tliem lit Juan Fernandez of eight and nine pounds

in

welglif, that were of an excellent flavour. Lob-
sters are also found in such quantities on the
san)e island, that the fishermen have no other
trouble to take them, than to strew a little meat
upon the shore, and when they come to devour
liiis bait, as they do in immense numbers, to
turn them on their backs with a stick. By this
simple method many thousands are taken an-
nually, and the tails, which are in high estima-
tion, dried and sent to Chili.

Of the fresh water crabs, the most remarkable
is that called the mason (cancer cementarius). It
is about eight inches long, of a brown colour
striped with red; the flesh is very white, and
preferable to that of any other species of river or
sea crab. They are found in abundance in almost
all the rivers and brooks, on whose shores thev
build themselves, with clay, a small cylindrical
tenement, which rises six inches above the sur-
face of the ground, but admits the water, hv
means of a subterranean caiial extending to the
bed of the river. They are readilv caught by
letting down a basket or osier pot, v» itb a piece
of meat in it, into the water.

The i!)sects which I have noticed in Chili
were In geiicial like those of Italy; a great num-
ber, lioweverj appear to be very distinct, and to
merit a particular description, Ainong the latter
is a singular species of the c/n\!j-'^:ouicla, (chry.^o-
mela maulica) which is found upon the flowers

O

i72

of the visncga. It is of an oval figure^ a little
iarger than a house-fly, and is entirely of a
golden colour, and extremely brilliant. The
country people in the province of Maule, where
it is principally to be met with, string together a
number of these insects for necklaces and other
ornaments, which preserve their beauty and bril-
liancy for a long time.

In the same province is found a black beetle of
more than half an inch in length, called pilmo
(lucanuspilraus) which is very destructive to le-
guminous plants, particularly the bean. But
the husbandmen have succeeded in nearly extir-
pating this species, by shaking the plants, upon
which they are, over vessels of hot w ater placed
beneath.

Chili is much less infested with grasshoppers
than Cujo, and many other countries in America.
There is but one species with which I am ac-
quainted ; it is found upon fruit trees, and is
about six inches long. When the insect extends
its legs, it resembles verv much a twig of the tree
upon which it keeps. The common people, ac-
cording to the vulgar notion that every thing de-
formed has some connexion with evil spirits, call
it the devil's horse.* It is not a common insect,
and appears to me to resemble the grillus clephas

* From the author's (lescvi]iTion, this ijiscct appears rather
tc beloD" t€ thi; L'^niit^ of iirantis ihua unv other.— i-r. Trans.

173

of Linnaeus. Bed-bugs were unknown in Chili
till within thelast sixtyyears. They are said to have
been first introduced by the European ships^ but
have since increased very much in the northern
provinces^ particularly in St. Jago. The south-
ern provinces are as yet exempt from this trouble-
some insect.

The glow-worms that I have seen were in ge-
neral similar to those of Italy. But one nighty as
I was passing a little wood^ I observed three in-
sects as large as the death's head sphinx ( sphinx
atropos ) which gave a very bright light. My
attempts to take them^ however, were fruitless,
and I was never afterwards able to discover any
of them^ but I am of opinion tliat they vrere a
species of the lantern-fly.

Of caterpillars there is a great variety of spe-
cies; and in the summer the fields of Chili are
embellished with the most beautiful butterflies?:
Among them are some that are remarkable for
their size and the splendour of tlicir colours. Of
thesCj the most distinguished is one that I have
denominated the, parrot huiterjlij (papilio psitta-
eus). This is vcrv larire and wonderful! v beau-
tiful; the top of the head is of a fine vermilion,
marked with yellow; the back yellow^ with red,
azurcj and green spots ; the i:pper part of tiiP
wings is grcen^ spotted with vellow andblue, and
the lower of a pale red ; ths belly is blue,
speckled with brown and grey, and the autennaiv
1

174

vs hich are shaped like a club^ are purple. There
is another of the same size (papilio leucothea)
called by the children palama. This butterflj' is
entirely of a silvery white, except the antennae
and legs, which are black.

In the vicinity of the sea, between the rivers
Ilapel and Metaquito, is a kind of caterpillar
said to resemble the silk-worm^ which forms
upon the forest trees small cocoons of a beautiful
silk, not inferior to the European. Nor can it
be doubted, that a climate so mild as that of
Chili should be peculiarly favourable to the pro-
pagation of the silk-worm, but as yet no attention
has been paid thereto, and all the silk used in
that country is imported from Europe.

It would not readily be believed that the rosin,
which is collected in such quantities in the pro-
vince of CoquimbOj from a shrub called chilcay
a species of origanum, is not a real gum, and,
like others, an exudation of the sap through tlic
bark. But one of my countrymen, the Abbe
Panda, who has examined with much attention
the natural productions of that province, has
lately discovered that this supposed rosin is pro-
duced by a small smooth caterpillar, of a red co-
lour, and about half an inch in length.* These

* I am convinced that this resinous substance is a produc-
tion ui' the tree itself, an*.! that the caterpillar niorely facili
tatcs its exiuialion, by biting the buds in tiic spring ; the same
circumstance occurs in many of the re.-iuous trees of Europe.
-•Fr.. Trah!.

175

insects collect in great numbers In the beginning
of tlie spring on the branches of the chiica, where
they form their cells of a kind of soft white wax.
In these they become changed into a small yel-
lowish molhj with black stripes upon the wings,
which I have named phahna ceraria. The wax
is at iirst very white, by degrees becomes yellow,
and finally brown ; this change, and the bitter
taste which it then acquires, is supposed to be
owing to the fogs, which are very frequent in the
provinces where it is found. It is collected in
autumn by the inhabitants, who boil it in water,
and afterwards make it up into little cakes, in
which form it is brought to market. In order to
increase its weight, many are accustomed to mix
it with the rosin obtained from another resinous
shrub called pcijaro pobo, and in this state great
quantities of it are sold to ship-masters, who use
it for paying their vessels, the only purpose to
which it has hitherto been applied. It is to be
regretted that the situation of the Abbe woiild
not permit him to pursue his experiments, in or-
der to determine whether this rosin might not
serve for candles equally as well as bees wax,
which it greatly resembles.

Upon the branches of the wild rosemary is
also found a whitisli viscous substance, in glo/-
bules of the size of a hazcl-nat, containing a
yery limpid oil, which unquestionably proceed*
from that shrub, and mli-,hi be found useful for

116

tiianj purposes. These glands serve af the samt
time for the habitation of a kind of caterpillar^
•which becomes transformed into a small fly with
four brown wings, of the genus of cynips.

In Chili there are many species of the bee.,
particularly in the southern provinces^ where
those that produce honey make their hives in
hollow trees, or in holes in the earth ; all the
wax used in the Archipelago of Chiloe is the
product of these wild bees.

As far as I have been able to ascertain, none of
the common wasps are to be found in Chili ; and
as to musquitoes, gnats^ and other species of
stinging flies, so troublesome to the inhabitants
of warm countries, they are entirely unknown
there. In the vicinity of stagnant waters only
have I observed a gnat of the species denomi-
nated by Linnaeus, culex ciliaris.

Of the water-fly, there are several species ;
they are always met with in the neighbourhood
of dwellinj^s, and differ in no respect from those
of Europe, excepting one of a middle size, found
only in the province of Calchagua. This is re-
markable for its pleasant musky smell, and is
used by the inhabitants to perfume their clothes,
from which circumstance I have named it tipula
moschifera.

As to the ants, Ihey appear to me to be of the
same kind w ith those of Europe, and not to offer
any discriminative mark of character^

m

The Clu'giia (pulcx penetrans) called by the
Chilians iiigiia or peqiii, is found only in the en-
virons of the city of Coquimboj and so rarely is
it met with even therCj that I have been assured
by a person v^ho resided there mnny yearS;, that a
single child was the only instance he had heard of
any one's having been incommoded by this insect.
Nigua is a generic term in Chilian^ signifving
all kinds of vermin or animalculae which infest
animalsj particularly the feathered tribe ; these
are precisely similar to those of Europe. Llloa
appears^ therefore^, to have been ignorant of the
extensive signification of this word in Chilian^ as
what he says in his voyage, that the chiguas^ or
pricker, is found upon the whole coast of Chili,
is contradicted by universal experience.

Of the spiders there is but one species that is
remarkable ; this is the great spider with fangs,
which I have called aranea scrofa. It is found
in the vicinity of St. Jago, and lives under
ground ; the body is as large as a hen's egg, and
covered v/ith soft brown hair, and the claws very
long and large ; in the middle of its forehead are
four large eyes, disposed in the foriri of a square,
and at the sides of the head tv. o ethers tliat arc
less, and the mouth is furnished with two pin-
cers of a shining black, about two lines in kngth,
turned back towards the forehead. Notwith-
standing its formidable appearance, this spider is
not daugf^rous, and serves as an firau'iemcut for

VOL. 1 N

178

children, who pluck out its pincers without ap-
prehension, which are by the common people be-
lieved to be a specific for the tooth-ache.

Scorpions, called in the language of the coun-
try thehiianque (scorpio Chilensis) differ but
little or nothing in size or appearance from those
of Europe. They are usually met with in some
of the secondary mountains of the Andes. The
common colour is a dark brown, but those found
under stones upon the shores of the river Co-
quimbo are yellow.* It is said that neither of
them are venomous, and that those who are bitten
by them experience no inconvenience. I was
once present when a young man was bit by one
of them, who merely complained of a slight
smartinc: of the nart, which continued inflamed
for not more than half an hour. Such experi-
ments, however, are too superficial to prove
satisfactory.

Sect. III. licjrtilcs. — i have already observed,
that there arc but few reptiles in Chili ; and, in
truth, all that are known are water turtles, two
species of frogs, the land and water toad, a few
lizards of the aquatic and terrestrial kinds, and
one species of serpent ; nor arc either of these
venomous.

* Tiie Europ'.'aii scorpions are yellow when young, and con-
tinue 30 while they remain under stoucs, but on expoiurc to
the :ur become brown. — Fu Trans.

179

The turtlrs are of vv/o species ; one is an inha-
bitant of the sea, denomin.ited by Linnjcus tes-
tudo coriacea ; the other, testudo lutaria, is found
in fresh water, particularly in the lakes of the
southern provinces,

Tlie frog's are the green frog (ranaesculenta)
and the temporary frog (rana temporaria).

The land toads are similar to those of Italy,
and live altogether in moist and wet places. The
water toads are of two kinds, the arunco (rana
arunco) and the thaul (rana lutea). The aruii-
CO is a little larger than the temporary frog,
and nearly of the same colour. The body is tu-
berciilated, and the feet webbed ; the fore feet
have four toes and the hinder five, ail furnished
with sniall nails almost imperceptible. It is
called by (he Araucanians gerico, which signifies
lord of the wa'cr, as they believe that it watches
over the preservation and contributes to the salu-
brity of thewaters. The ihcnil is less than *he
common or greeu f ^^a v,hich it resembles in its
forjii. Its skin i-i yllovv and covered wi li
tubercle*, and its feet are shaped like those of the
arunco, but not palmated.

The most remarkable of the terrestrial lizards
is the pallum ( lacerta pallum) of whose skins
the peasants makethcir purees. This lizard lives
usually under ground in the plains ; its iei.gth,
exclusive of the tail, is ? little more than eleven
inches^, and it is three inches in circumference;

?,- 2

180

the tail is as long as the body^, the head triangu-
lar, covered with small square scales^ the nose
vcrv ^ongv, the ears round and like those of all
lizards, placed at the hinder part of the head.
The upper part of its body is covered with small
rhomboidal scales^ green,, yelloW;, black, and blue;
the skin of the belly is smooth and of a yellowish
green ; the feet have each five toes, furnished
with strong nails, and the tail is round and of the
same colour as the bodv.

Of the aquatic lizard but one species has been
discovered, to which Feuille, who saw it, has
given the name of the water salamander (sala-
raandra aquatica nigra). It is fourteen inches
and a half in length; iiicl tiding the tail ; the skin
is without scales, rough in a slight degree, and
of a black inclining to blue ; the head is elevated
and rather long, the eyti hirge and yellow with
a blue pupil, and the ncstrils open with a fleshy
bordrr ; its nose is pointed, the mouth wide and
furnished v.ith two rows of small crooked teeth;
the tongue is large, of a bright red, and at-
tached at the base to llie gullet, in which is a
large crop that the animal can contract and ex-
pand at pleasure ; like other water lizards it is
v/ithoi'.l eiivs, and from the top of its head to the
extremitv of i'stail, extends a kind of indeiited
«icst. '' > i.jiT. feet are much shorter than tlie
hind, th'j iiave each five toes, whicli, instead of
uails^ ore furtsisbed with round cartilages; the

181

tail is slralglit and rounded at the base^ but to-
wards the end becomes flattened and expantied
like a spatula ; \i is about two inches in breadth^
and the edges are notched like a saw.

I'iic only serpeiit of Chili is that known to na-
turalists by the name of coluber esculapii. It is
striped with blacky yellow, and white^ sometimes
mingled with brown. The largest that I have
seen was not more than three feet in lengih ; it is
perfectly IiarnilesSj and the peasants handle it
without the least apprehension.

Sect. IV. Fi.sJies. — The various kinds of escu-
lent fish, found on the coast cf Chili, are by tlie
fishermen computed to be seventy-si xv, the most
of which differ from those of the northern hemis-
phere, and appear to be peculiar to that sea.
There are many, however, that are merely
varieties of species that are common to almost all
seas. Such, among the amphibious or cartila-
ginous fishes, are the ray, the torpedo, srate,
dog-fish, saw-iish, fishing-frog, and old-\\!fe;
and among the spinous fislies, the eh'cirical eel.,
the conger, the sword-fi>h, the cod, thewhiliiig.
the sole, the turbot, the dorado, the boiiilo, the
tunny, the mackarel, the roach, the barbel, the
mulLt, the shad, the pilchard, the anchovy, and
several others.

"\\ iu'Hif r the vast numbers of fish on the corr-r
Ci Chiii, arc owing to some peculiar local cau-e-.

182

or to the small number of fishermen^ it is a fact,
supported by the testimony of the best informed
navigators^ that no country in the world furnishes
a greater quantity of those that are excellent.*

The baySj harbours^ aiid^ in a particular man-
nerj the mouths of the large rivers^ swarm with
them of all sizes, and in some places they are
caught without any trouble. The river Cauten,
which is three hundred toises broad at its mouthy
and of sufficient depth to admit a ship of the
linCj is, at certain seasons of the year, so filled
with fish, for seven leagues from its mouth, that

* In tlie road of Valparaiso is caught an abundance of ex-
cellent fish of all kinds, as king- fish, bream, soles, &c. besides
an infinite number of those that are migratory, as pilchards,
and a species of cod that come upon the coast in the months
of October, November, and December ; also shad, and a kind
of anchovy, which at times are in such uiultitudes, that they
are caught with baskets on the surface of the water. — Frazier's
Voyage, vol. i.

We had also fish in such plenty, that one boat w-juid, \vi)h
hooks and lines, catch, in a few hours, as much as would icrve
a large ship's company two days; ;hey were of various sorts,
all excellent in their kind, and manv of them weighed from
twenty to thirty pouuds.-^Hawkesivorlh's Voyage of Covim'jn
dore Byron, chap, viii.

This part of Masafuero is a very good place for refresh*
Mient, especially in the summer season ; the goats have ueoii
mentioned already, and there is all round the island such
plenty of fish, that a boat may, with three hooks and hues,
catch as much as will serve an hundred people; among others
we caught excellent soal fish, cavallics, cod, halibut, and craw-
fish, &c.--ifazi''^e5:fori/i i Fuyaiseof CaPf- Carteret, chap, ii,

O

183

the Indians flock thither in larg:e compaTue-!, and
take an astonishing quantity by striking tliem
from the shores \^ ith their lances^ formed of a
reed, which I have aheady described, called
coUn; and an equal abundance is to be found in
tlic mouths of all the southern rivers.

In the Archipelago of Chil e, wlie e the fish
are still more plentiful, the inhabitants place in the
mouths of the rivers, and even in certain places
on the sea shore, palisades, leaving an opening
towards the sea, which, when the tide begins to
ebb, they carefully close. On the retiring of
the waterj the fish enclosed in these wears are left
upon the sand, and taken without difficulty. There
is almost always a greater quantity enclosed than
is wanted by the inhabitants^, who come thither
from all quarters to obtain a supply, so that
they frequently open the gate, and permit the
most part to escape with the returning flood.

The cod is as abundant upon the coast of
Juan Fernandez as upon ih.Q banks of Newfound-
laru!, and caught with equal facility, for no
sooner is the line thrown in, than a fish is drawn
up. These fish ariive in large shoals, in the
months of November and D cember, upon the
coast of Valparaiso. The inhabitants formerly
paid no attention to this important fishery:,
but of late have pursued it with great success.

la some parts of the coast, great numbers of
,^sh are occasionally found upon the shore.

N 4

184^

These fish^ when pursued by the whale^ retire to
the shallows, where, unable to contend agahist
the violence of the waves, they are thrown upon
the beach, and become the prey of birds, or
when found alive by the inhabitants, are taken
and salted for use. Of the fish, the most esteemed
are the robalo^ the corvinOt the lisa, and the
king-Jisli.

The rodalo ( esox Chilensis ) is nearly of a
cylindrical form, and from two to three feet
long. It is clothed with angular scales, of a
golden colour upon the back, and silver on the
belly, the fins are soft and without spines, the
tail is truncated, and the back marked longitudi-
nally with a blue stripe, bordored with yellow.
The flesh is very white, almost transparent,
light, and of a delicious taste. Those taken
upon the Araucanian coast are the most in repute,
where they are sometimes caught of eight pounds
weight. The Indians of Chiloe smoke them,
after having cleaned and soaked them for twenty-
four hours in sea water, and when sufiiciently
dried, pack them up in casks of one hundred
each, which are generally sold from two to three
dollars. The rohalo prepared in this manner is
si^.perior to any other kuid of dried fish.

The corciiio (spams Chilensis) is nearly of

the same size as the preceding ; it is sometimes,

however, found of five or six feet in length„

This iish has a small head, and a large oval bodvj

■I

i85

covered witli broad rhomboldal scales^ of a
mother of pearl colour^ marked with white ; the
tail is forked, and the body encircled obliquely
from the shoulders to the belly with a number of
brownish lines. The fins are armed with spiny
raySj and the flesh is white^ firm, and of a good
taste, particularly when fried. It would pro-
bably be still better if it were prepared like that
of the tunny.

The lisa ( mugil Chilensis ) in its form, scales,
and taste, is much like the common mullet, but
is distinguished by the dorsal fin, which in the
lisa is entire. There are two species of this fish,
the sea and the river, neither of which exceed a
foot in length ; the first is a very good fish, but
the latter is so exquisite that it is preferred by
many to the best of trout.

The king-Jish (cyprinus regius) so called from
the excellence of its flavour, is nearly of the
size of a herring ; it is of a cylindrical form,
covered with golden scales upon the back, and
with silver upon the sides. It has a short blunt
mouth without teeth, yellow eyes, with purple
irides and blue pupils; its fins are yellow and
soil, and that of the back extends from the head
to the tail, which is divided into two parts.
These fish are caught in such abundance, that a
hundred of them may be bought for a real.

Ahhough the fresh waters do not afford as
many different species of fi^h as the sea, ihe

\86

number of individuals is much greater. The
rivers, streams, lakes, and even the small brooks,
produce a surprising quantity, especially those
beyond the 34th degree of latitude. The kinds
most in estimation are the lisa, which 1 have
already noticed; the trout; the caitqiU (cyprinus
caucus); the malche (cyprinus malchus); the
yuli (cyprinus julus); the cumarca, orpeladial
(stromateus cumarca); and the Z;agre, or luvur
(silurus Chilensis). The bagre has a smooth skin
without scales, and is brown upon the sides, and
whitish under the belly. In its form it resembles a
tad-pole, the head being of a size disproportionate
to the length of the body, which does not exceed
eleven inches at the most. It has a blunt mouth,
furnished like that of the barbel, with barbs.
It has a sharp spine on the back fin, like the tro-
pical bagre, but its puncture is not venomous, as
that is said to be. The flesh is ytllow, and the
xmost delicious of any esculent fish that is known.
There is said to be another species or variet}' of
this fish, inhabiting the sea, that is black, and
which I presume is the same that Commod re
Anson's sailors called, from its colour, the chim-
ney-sweep.

Eels are found only in the Araucanian pro-
vinces, where they are exceedingly plenty, and
are taken by the Indians in a kind of basket,
placed against the current. The river Talten,
which waters those provinces, produces a small

187

ijsli called payc, wliicli, as I have been assured
by those \vho have seen thenij is so diaphanous,
tliat if several are placed upon each other^ any
object beneaih tiieni may be distinctly seen. If
this propi-ity .- not g'leatty exa2"geratedj this fish
iiiiciht serve to discover the secret process of di-
gestion, and the motion of the fluids.

Among the great varieties of fish with which
the waters of Chili abound, the three following
are more particularly deserving of notice. These
inhabit the sea, and are the gilt clKetodoiif
the cock-fish, and the tollo.

The gilt chcefO'loii (chcetodon aureus) is flat, of
an oval form, about a foot in length, and covered
v/ith very small scales. It is of a bright gold co-
lour, and marked with five distinctbands, of more
thaji half an inch in width, some grey, and others
black. The first is black, commences at the
back of the neck, and passes in a circular direc-
tion through the eyes ; the two in the centre are
grev, and encircle the body, and the tviio last are
black and grey, and surround the root of the
tail, which is of a silver colour. This beautiful
fisli has a small head, an elongated mouth, fur-
nished with «!r.oU teeth, and the bark entirelv
covered from the head to the tail with a large
spinous vcllow tin. 1 he tail is in the form of
a fan, and is b'ordered with yellow, and the flesh
is excel Lt i a n^;.

The cock-fisli, (chiniasra callorynchus) placed

188

by Linn^iis among the amphibious swimmer^^^,
is about three feet long. Its body is round.»
larffer towards the middle than the extremities^
&:h* covered with a whitish skin devoid of scales.
Its head is surmounted with a cartilaginous crest
extend'ng ine m ^ix lines beyond the upper lip,
from \N iirfiice it has obtained the name of the
cock- fish, or chalf^ua ncliagiiali' the AraUfani;in
language. It has five fins; the dorsal com-
mences immediately behind the bead, and ex-
tends ii elf to the middle of the back, it is very
large, of a triangular form, supported by a strong
sharp spinCj five inches in length ; this spine,
which is longer than the fin, is the only bony
part of the fish, all the rest being cartilaginous,
even the back boue, which, like that of the lam-
prey, is furnished with neither marrow nor nerves^
The four other fins are placed near the gills and
beneath the anus ; these are double, whicii is
very uncommon, and the tail is shaped like a leaf,
with the point turned towards the belly. This
fish, when eaten, is served up more as an object
of curiosity than from a regard for i(^ flavour,
which is very inditTerenl.

T\\G, toUo (squalus Fernandinus) is a species
of dog-lish, a little larger than the cock-fish,
and remarkable for tv^o dorsal spines, like tiiose
of the squalus acanthias. Tiiese spines are tri-
angular, bent at the point, as hard as ivory, and
two iiu;h;\s and a half long, and five liin's brnad

189

They are saul to be an efficacious remedy for the
tooth-ache, by holding the point of one of them
to «; , aCec'ed tootli.

Notwithstandnig the v*'hale belongs to the
class of hictlferoLis animals, I have thought
proper to notice it in this piacCj as many authors,
from its external conformation, have ranked it
among fishes. The species that frequent the Chi-
lian seas are the great whale ( balaena mysticctus)
called by the Araucanians yene ; tlie little whale
(balaena boons) called icol, and the three known
species of the dolphin. Both these kinds of
whale are very common in that sea, and at certain
seasons they are seen in great numbers, particu-
larly near tii.e months of rivers, whither they
come in quest of fish.

The late English navigators speak of the great
quantity of whales which they met with upon the
coast of Terra del Fucgo, and in the Straits of
^Magellan; and in the account of Captain Cook's
last voyage, the little Vrhale is particularly men-
tioned. I have good reason to believe that, be-
sides the two kinds of- vvliales above mentioned,
u\\ the species discovered in the northern may
likewise be uxriul in the southern sens : but as the
Chilians have never paid attention to the whale
fishery, 1 am not able to assert ii with positive-
r.css, nor to detf^nuinetlie diflerence, if there be
icwy, betv. cen tlie northern and soiiiiicrn vvliale;
this JONvever, i- certain, ihd Um^. whah'-: of ^he

joiith are not inferior in size fo those of ihe
north. I have myself seen a whale that had been
driven ashore on the coast of the Chones, that
was ninety-six feet lon^, and on the same coast
■was also found the rib of another twenty- two feet
in length. I cannot but be surprised that Mr.
Euflx)n. in contradiction to the testimony of the
most respectable navigators, has assorted that
the southern seas produce no whales,* ai d that
the largest animal that is found in them is the
manati; that learned naturalist^ v/ho too fie-
quently suifers himselfio be misled by his favou-
rite system, shoiiid 1 ave recollected that the
great phoca, improperly denominated the sea-
lion, an animal which he has himself described,
far exceeds in size the manati.

There are occasionally seen upon the coast of
Araucania, certain animals called by the In-
dians sea-cows. From the imperfect description
v/hich I have received of them, i cannot deter-
mine whether they are manatis, morses, or a spe-
cies of phocaj. 1 am, however, more inclined to
believe them to be manatis, as great numbers of
these animals were found by the first Spanish
settlers of Juan Fernandez on the shores of that

* On the SOtli we steered for Staten-Iand, and on the pas-
tsage fell in with so great a number of whales, of the largest
size, that the crew were apprehensive lest tlvy would siiil» the
ship. We also saw great numbers of sea-wolves and pen-
guics. — Journal of Captain Co'jk's second yhyage^ p. 522.

191

island ; but the immense destruction which thej
made of them, as they were eagerly hunted for
their fleshy lias entirely driven them from those
shores.

The Indians pretend that in certain lakes in
Chili is to be found an animal of a monstrous
size, which they call guruvilu, or the fox-ser-
pent. They believe that it devours men, and on
that account never bathe in those lakes. But the
descriptions which they give of its size and form
scarcely ever agree: some representing it as hav-
ing the body of a serpent with the head of a fox;
others, as being of a circular form, and re-
sembling an inflated ox-hide. It is, however;,
probable that this animal has no other existence
than in the imaginations of these people.*

Sect. V. Birds. — After that of insects^ the
most numerous class of animals in Chili is that
of birds. Those that inhabit the land alone
amount to a hundred and thirty-five species^ and

* Of the various means of defence with which Nature har
provided its creatures, I remember none more singidar than
that of the driwn-fish on the coast of Pern ; which, when
alarmed, infiates itself till it becomes perfectly round. Tiic
eyes project ^o far wlien it is in this state, as to prove tliat it
is not (lone without great effort. But none of \U enemies can
then suallow" it because of its size, or bite it because of its
shape, — E, E,

Mercurlo Peruano, No. 2So.

192

the number of those belonging to the sea, is
almost impossible to be estimated. The genus of
gulls alone is known to contain twenty-six dif-
ferent species, and many others are not less nu-
merous.

That vast chain of mountains, the Andes, may
be considered as the nursery of birds of all kinds.
They assemble there in great numbers in the
spring, in order to breed and rear their young in
greater security; and on the falling of . the first
snows in winter, they quit them in large flocks,
and seek the plains and the maritime mountains.
To their residence in the Andes, which are almost
always covered with snow, I think may be attri-
buted that difference of plumage frequently ob-
servable in individuals of many of these species,
of which I have seen some that were perfectly
white.

Many of the birds of Chili are merely sirii])Ie
varieties of species that are found in Italy and
many other parts of Europe. Of this number
are tViQ geese, ducks, divers, plovers, heions,
kites, falcons, black-birds, pigeons, crows, part-
ridges, and domestic fowls.* The sportsmen

* The country abounds with an iiifiiul y of birdsj parliculaily
wild pigeons, tiutle-dovcs, and paitiidge:>, though the hitter
are interior to those of Europe, and with grouse and ducks of
all kinds ; among the latter is one called file royal duck, which
has a red cojiih upon its head. Tiicre ;;re likewise curlews,
aud a kind of wi.lgcon, (icsciiibling the ica-bird called malvis)

1^3

enumerate sixteen species of wild ducks, and six
of geese. Among the former^ the royal duck
(anas regia) is principally distinguishable; it is
much larger than the common duck, the upper
part of the body is of a beautiful blue, and the
lower part grey ; the head is adorned w ith a large
red comb, and the neck with a collar of beautiful
wliite feathers. '

Of the geese, the most remarkable is the coS'
coroba, (anas coscoroba). It is highly esteemed
])oth for its size, and for the ease with which it is
tamed, as it becomes strongly attached to those
who feed it, and follovvs them around like a dog.
The plumage is entirely white, the ^eei and bill
are red, and the eyes of a fine black.

The swan of Chili (anas melancoripha) is
nearly of the same size with that of Europe ; its
form is likewise similar, but its plumage is dif-
ferent, that on the head and upper part of the
neck being black, and the residue of a snowy
white. The female has six young at a brood,
which she is careful never to quit, but takes them

-.shich has a long, straight, nariow, scarlet bill, flat upon the
fipper fei'le, and a stripe of the sarac colour over the eyes; the
feet are like those of the ostrici), and tht; llesli is very good
eating. Parrots are in plenty, and there are some swans and
llainingocs, whose feathers are iiig'iiv pri/ed by the Indians for
ornamenting tlieir heads upon public occasions; these are of a
beautiful white and carnation, colours that are ia the greatest
<:5tiination among them.— i^rat;ic^r'i ^'o^a^e, vo). i,
VOL. I. O

194

with her upon her back whenever she leaves he?
nest.

Of herons there are five very beautiful specie<5.
The first is the large European heron (ardea
m;ijor). The second, the red-headed heron,,
(ardea erjtroeephala) is of the size of the first;
it is entirely white exceptii^g' the head, which is
crowned with a long' red crest that hangs down
upon its back. The third, the galatea heron
(ardea galatea) is of a milk-white colour, the
neck is two feet and a half long, the legs are of
the same length and red, and the bill, which is
yellow, is four inches long. The fourth, the
heron with a blue head (ardea cyanocephala).
The head and back of this species are blue, the
wings black, edged with white, the belly is of a
yellowish green, the tail green, the bill black,
and the legs are yellow. The iifth is the thula
(ardea thula) a naiiie derived from the Chilian;
it is entirely white, and its head is adorned with
a beautiful crest of the same colour.

Of the two kinds of eagles in Chili, one is the
yellow eagle of Europe, called by the Indians
gnanca, and another species called calquin, whiclt
appears to me to differ but little from the itz-
quauJitli of Mexico, and (he urutazirana of Brasil.
This eagle, from the extremities of its wings^
measures about ten and a half feci ; its breast is
white, spotted with brown, and the neck, back,
and wings, are black, inclininj^ to blue ; the tail

195

is marked transversely with black and brown
stripes, and the head decorated with a blue crest.

The turtle-doves are of two vpecies ; the one is
similar to that of Europe ; the other (columba
melanoptora) has an ash-coloured bodj and
black wings.

There are four species of the woodpecker ; the
green, the Virginian, the carpenter, and the pitiu.
The carpenter (picus lignarius) is less than a
starling, and has a red crest, and the body is Ta-
riegated with wh.ite and blue. The bill is so
strong that it peifarates with it not only dry but
green trees, and proves very injurious to the
fniit trees, by making deep holes in them,
wherein it deposits its eggs. The pitiu (picus
pitius) is of the size of a pigeon. Its plumage
is brown, spotted with white, and its tlesh is
held in much estimation. This bird lays four
eggs, but it does not, like others of its species,
nest in the holes ef trees, but in excavations
which it makes in the high banks of rivers, or
on the sides of hills.

Grey and red partridge?, which, according to
Feuille, are larger than those of Europe, are
very numerous througliout the country. They
have an excellent flavour, particularly during
the months of April and May, when they feed
upon tno flowers of the sassia perdicaria. In the
marshes is found a species that is smaller, whose,
flesh is much less delicate. Quails are wholly

o2

1%

unknown in Chili, although common in many of
the American settlements.

The domestic fowl, which the Indians call
ticliau, is of the same breed as that of Europe,
but it is asserted on the faith of an ancient tradi-
tion, that it has always been known in the coun-
try; and what tends to confirm this opinion, is
the proper name which it has in the Chilian lan-
guage, which is not the case with other birds of
foreign extraction, such as the common pigeon,
the tame duck, the goose, and the turkey. From
whence it would seem that the domestic fowl, the
hog, and the dog, are animals destined to ac-
company man in whatever country he may be
placed. This opiiiion is confirmed by the late
English navigators, who have met with them
in almost all the islands of the Pacific.

Among the numerous birds tliat inhabit Chili,
1 shall notice those only that are the most re-
markable, which I '^luill divide into two general
classes, the palmafcd or wcb-fooled, and the
cloven- footed. The lirst have their toes wiited
by a membrane, and frequent the water, where
they feed upon fish, aquatic |)lants, or insects.

Of these, the principal is the penguin (diome-
dea Chilensis). This bird, on the part of the
feathered tribe, forms a lisik of union between
Jhe cla-scs of birds and fishes, as the flying-fish
does Oil that of the finny race. Tlie feet are
palmatcd like those of a duck, but iU plumage is

19?

so fine that it appears more like hair than fea-
thers^ and instead of wings it has two pendent
fins, covered with very short feathers resembling
scales, which are of great use to it in swimmings
but much too small for the purpose of flying. It
is of the size of a common duck, but its neck is
much longer ; the head is compressed at the sides,
and very small in proportion to the size of the
body ; the bill is slender, and bent a little to-
wards the point ; the upper part of the body, the
wings and the tail, which is nothing more than
an extension of the feathers of the rump, are of a
changeable grey and blue, and the breast and
belly are white. The feet, which have but three
toes, are situated near the anus, and it walks in
an erect posture, with its head elevated like that
of a man, keeping it constantly in motion in
order to preserve its equilibrium. This gives it
at a distance the appearance of a child just be-
ginning to walk, whence the Chilians have deno-
minated it the child-bird.

Although the penguin is an excellent swimmer,
it cannot keep the sea during a storm, and the
bodies of those whicli have perished at such
times, are frequently found upon the beach. I
have never known it eaten in Chili, though seve-
ral, navigators represent it as very good food.
The skni is as thick as that of a hog, and very
f^asily separated from the flesh. The femsH

o 3

198

makes her nest in the sand, in which she lavs six
or seven white eggs, spotted with black.

The quethu (diomedea Chilensis) is of the
same genus, size and form as the preceding, but is
distinguished by its wings, which are wholly
destitute of feathers, and by having four toes on
each foot. The body is covered with a very
long thick ash-coloured plumage, a little curled,
and so soft that the inhabitants of Chiioe, where
these birds are very common, spin it, and make
bed-coverings of it, that are highly prized in the
country.

The thage (pelicanus thagus) called by the
Spaniards the alcatrace, is a species of pelican of
a brown colour, remarkable for the size of its
sack. This bird is as large as a turkey-cock,
the neck is about a foot, and the legs twenty-
two inches long. Its head is large and well pro-
poitioiied, and the bill, which Js a little bent at
the point, is a foot ii length, am! serrated at the
edges, a characteristic mark that distinguishes
this pelican f»om that of Europe, whose bill is
entire and smooth. The lower mandible, at a
little distance fiom tlie point, is divided into
two parts, that are very elastic and extensible at
the base, where they open iiito the membraneous
sack. Tiiis is only an enlargement of the skin
which covers the lower jaw and the neck ; it is
clothed svith a very short grey down, and is ca-

199

|)able of great expansion. When this sack is
empty it is scarcely perceptible, but when filled
with fisjij particularly at the time when the bird
lias yoiujg'j its size is really astonisliing. Nature,
ever attentive to adapt the mean to the end, has
furnished this bird with a large pair of wings,
which are nearly nine feet in breadth from one
extremity to the other; the quills are very long",
and are preferred for writing to those of the
goose or the swan ; its tail is short and rounds
and the feet have four toes united by a strong
membrane. It is a solitary and indolent bird, al-
most constantly to be seen upon the rocks, where
it makes its nest, and it has usually live young at
a brood. Tlie inhabitants, after dressing them,
make use of tliese sacks for tobacco-pouches ;
they are also employed for lanterns, and from
tlicir transparency answer tlie purpose very
well.

The cage (anas hybrida) is a species of roose
which frequents the islands in the ArchipelaL;o
of Chiloe. It is remarkable for the difference of
colour between the male and the female; the
former being entirely white, with a vellow bill
and legs ; whereas the female is black, except a
narrow white stripe w'lih wl.ich the edges of
some of the feathers are marked, as-.d X'k^c bill and
legs are red. In consequence of this remarkable
di.-siiiiilarity, I luive given to this bird the name
of t!ie hybrid, or mulatio. The ca^' 6' is of the

0 i

size of a tame goose, but it has a shorter neck,
and a longer tail and wings ; the feet are shaped
like those of the European goose. The male and
female appear to be strongly attached to each
other ; they keep in pairs, and are never to be
met with, like other aquatic birds, in large
flocks. During the breeding season they retire
to the sea shore, where the female usually lays
eight white eggs in a hole which she makes in
the sand.

The flamingo (phsnicopterus Chilensis) is one
of the most beautiful birds of Chili. It fre-
quents only the fresh waters, and is distin-
guished by its size and the beautiful flame-co-
lour of its back and wings, which produces a
most pleasing effect when contrasted with the
pure white of the rest of its plumage. Its length
from the tip of the bill to the end of the claws,
is five feet, but the body itself does not exceed a
foot in length ; it has a small oblong head, deco-
rated with a kind of crest ; the eyes are small
but lively; the bill denticulated, a little bent to-
wards the point, about five inches long, and co-
vered with a reddish pellicle ; the feet have four
toes, three forward, and one behind ; the tail is
short and rounded, and the wings arc of a length
proportioned to the size of its body; the quills
are perfectly white, while those of the flamingos
of the other parts of America and Africa, arc
black. It lias been said, that when young thesy

201

birds are grey ; but as I have myself seen them
of all ageSj I can assert that they are always of
the *same colour. It is also said that whenever
they feedj one of the flock is placed as a sentinel^
to give the alarm in case of danger to the others.
This circumstance I have never witnessed ; it is,
however, true, that they are extremely wild, and
can rarely be approached within gun-shot. As
the legs of this bird are too long to permit it
conveniently to cover its nest, it is compelled to
obviate this inconvenience by the position of the
the latter ; this is usually constructed at the edge
of the water, in shape of a truncated cone, a foot
and a fhalf high ; on the top of this cone is a
little excavation lined with very soft down. The
bird, while in the act of incubation, places itself

* Danipier, who must have seen as many of these birds as
JMolina, and wliose veracity and accuracy are uniinpeacliablej
asserts on the contrary that the young ones are of a hght grey,
and as tlieir wing-feathers spring out they grow darker, and
never come to their right colour, nor any beautiful shape,
under tenor eleven months old. — (Vol 1, p. 72.) The Goara-
xes, or Uwaras, as Sfade calls them, whose bright scarlet fea-
thers are the favourite ornament of the Brazilian tribes, are,
in like manner, first of the colour of ashes, and then brown.
— £. E.

t Dan;pior says they build their nests in shallow ponds,
where there is much mud, which they scrape together, making
little hillocks, like small islands appearing out of the water, —
Vol. 1. p. 71.

4

S02

in a standing posture, with the hinder part of its
body supported upon the nest, as if seated in a
chair. The Araucanians value the flamingo
highly, and make use of its feathers to ornament
their helmets and the ends of their lances.

The pillu (tantalus pillu) is a species of the
ibis. Its plumage is white, mottled with black,
and its general resort is the rivers and the fresh
water lakes. Of all the aquatic birds, the pillu
has the longest legs, which, comprehending the
thighs, are two feet eight inches in length. The
size of the body, which is nearly that of a tame
goose, is by no means proportionate to the length
of the legs; the neck is two feet three inches
long, and the region of the crop, which is small^
is destitute of feathers. The head is of a middle
size, the bill large, convex, and sharp-pointed^
about four inches in Irn::!]!, and entirely bare of
fealhei's ; it has four toes on each foot, which
arc united at their base by a very small mem-
brane ; the tail is siiost aad entire like that of
almcit ail aquatic birds, Ihe Spaniards call it
tlie stork of Chili; but it differs from the stork
in various resjccts. 1 have never seen it li2:ht
upon trees or any elevated object, and it almost
always continues in the marslics and on the banks
of rivers, where it feeds upon reptiles; it usually
ri;ik( s its nest among rushes, in which it lays two
v/hite ei!;gSj a little inclining to blue.

Thuhc birds wiiich have the t'jcs separate and

203

i\oi united by a membrane;, are by naturalists de-
nominated cloven-footed ; these for the greater
part iniiabit the plains and the woods, and feed
upon insects, fruits, or flesh. Of this class I
shall select those that are most remarkable for
the beauty of tiicir plumage, the melody of their
song, or any other quality.

The pigda, known under the different names of
pica-flora, humming-bird, &c. is thetrochilus of
Linnjens, who has described twenty-two species
of it. It is generally very small ; the neck is
short, the head well proportioned,, the eyes are
black and vivid^ the bill is of the size of a pin,
and nearly of the same length as the body, the
tongue bifurcated, and tlic legs are short with
four toes; the tail consists of seven or nine fea-
thers tlie length of the body, and the wings are
very long. Their colours vary according to
their species ; but they are in geiieral very rich,
arid combine the splendour of gold and precious
stones with the most beautiful shades of every
hue, which they retain even after their death.
Tljey are very common thrviu:;hout Chili, and
during the summer are seen lilie buUeihies ho-
vering aronnd the fiowersj and appear as if sus-
pen;ied in the air. They make a hunmiing noise
Willi tin li- wings, but llieir nete is nofhing more
than a low warbling or cha<fering. The males
are di=liiigui>hable from I'-e females by tlie bril-
liancy of tlicir heads, whicli shine like fire.

These birds build their nests upon trees, and form
them of small straws and down; they lay two
white eggs, speckled with yellow, of the size of
a chick pea, which the male and female cover
alter*"ately. On the approach of winter, this
little 1 ird suspends itself by its bill to a twig,
and in this position falls into a lethargic sleep,
which continues the whole season. This is the
time whcis they are chiefly taken, for when they
are m full vigour it is almost impossible to catch
them.

I have observed three species of this bird in
Chili ; the little, the blue-headed, and the
crested humming-bird.

The little humming-bird (trochilus minimus)
'Vv'eighs only two grains, and its prevailing co-
Iolu is a very brilliant green.

The blue-headed humming-bird (trochilus
cyanocephalus) has a tail thrice as long as its
body, w hich is of the size of a filbert ; the bill
is straight, pointed, and whitish ; the head is blue
with a golden lustre ; the back of a shining
green; the belly of a reddish yellow; and the
wings blue, mottled with purple.

The crested humming-bird (trochilus galeri-
tus) is the largest of these three kinds, and is a
little less than the European wren. Its bill is
slightly curved, and its head adorned with a
small crest striped with gold and purple; its
neck and back are green, the large feathers of

205

the wing's and tail brown, spotted with gold, and
all the lower part of the body of a changeable
flame-colour.

The sill ( fringilla barbata) called by the Spa-
niards gilglirro, or the goldfinch, is nearly of the
size and form of the canary-bird. It has a
straight, sharp-pointed, conical bill, which is
white at the base and black at the point. The
male has a black velvety head, and a yellow
body slightly marked with green; its wings are
variegated with green, yellow, red, and blacky
and the tail is brown ; when young its throat is
yellow, but as it advances in years is entirely co-
vered with a black hair, which begins to be vi-
sible when the bird is six months old, and con-
tinues jrrowinii: until it attains tlie aoce of ten
vears, the usual period of its life, at which time
it reaches to the middle of the breast, and its
age may be very accurately ascertained by the
length of its beard. The female is entirely grey,
with a few yellow spots upon the wings; it has
no beard, nor any song, but only a kind of occa-
sional whistle; the noto of the male is, however,
very harmouiou!^, and far surpasses that of the
ranary-])ird ; v/hcn it bcp^ius to sing, it elevates
its >()ice by little and little, continues its strain
i\>r a c{)t'.>idcr:ibl<5 tirnf^', and ( !:>;;cs with some
vcrv ^weet triilj; it slu's pII the year, and is
readitv taught to imitate wuh r(.Mir:uk:ible grace
the notcjj ol" oilier birds. h\ the uKin'tiaio niouii-

20G

tains the sfu mu,y be met with at any season^ but
it is found in the plaais of the middle provin c
only during the winter, as it quits them in the
spring for the Andes, where it breeds. It makes
its nest upon any kind of tree with small straws
and feathers ; it has but tw o young at a brood,
but I am inclined to believe that it breeds se-
veral times in a season. This bird ranliiplies
astonishingly, and may be seen every where; and
although the peasants^ who eat as well as encage
them, take thousands every year, their numbers
are not at all diminished ; it become* alter a little
time very familiar, and even attached to those
whom it is accustomed to see ; it feeds on se-
veral kinds of seeds, but it^ favourite food is iliQ
grain of the madia safiva, and the aroniatie
leaves of the scandix Chilensis.

The diuca (friugilla diuca) is of the same
genus as the preceding, hut a little laiger, and
of a blue colour ; its nf (c is very ai-reenbie,
particularly towards day-break; ii keeps abont
houses like the .-parrow, Vyhich it rcsenibies in
many respects, and I thi-ik it liipjily probable
that it is the same bird w iih the blue tpas row of
Congo^ mentioned by Merolla and Cavazzi, and
the New Zealand bird of Captain Cook, which
sung so harmoniously at sunrise.

The thili, or Chili fturdus thilius) is a species
of thrush which, as I have already observed, ap-
pears to have given its name to the country
3

207

where it is found in great numbers. Linnaeus
has described from Feuille the female of this
bird under the name of turdus 'phinibeus. The
female is indeed of a grey colour, but the male
is entirely black except a yellow spot wfiich it
has under the wings ; it has the shape of a
thrush, but the tail is cuneated ; it makes its
nest upon trees near the river with wet mud, in
which it lays four eags ; its song is very sweet
and loud, but it will not bear confinement ; it is
never eaten, as its flesh has a rank and disafrree-
able smell.

The tlicnca (tardus thcnca) in my opinion is
merely a variety of the Virginian thrush (turdus
polyglottus) or of the turdus Orpheus, or cent-
zontlatotle of Mexico, called the four hundred
tongues, from tiie variety of its notes; it is of
the size of the common thrush, but its wings
and its tail, which is entire and rounded, are
longer ; its eyes, bill, and feet are brown ; the
upper part of its body is of an ash-colour^
spotted with brown and white ; the ends of the
quills and the tail-feathers are white, and the
breast and belly of a light grey; it builds its
nest upon trees ; this is a foot in length, of a
cylindrical form, lined within with wool and
feathers, and completely guarded upon the out-
ride with thorns, except a sniall opening, by
which the female enters and deposits her eggs

208

which are four or five, and are white speckled
with brown.

It is not in the power of language to convey
an idea of the song of the thenca, which has
the sound of a great number of birds whose
notes are in accord ; it also possesses the property
of imitating the note of any other bird^ and its
strain is generally much louder and more har-
monious than that of the nightingale ; it is a gay
and active birdj always in motion^ and even while
singing continues hopping from one bough to
another. For this reason it will not bear con-
finementj and if shut up in a cage soon dies. It
is usually to be met with near country-houses,
and feeds upon almost any thing, but appears to
have a decided preference for flies and tallow.

The cureu (turdus cureus) appears to be of a
species between the thrush and the black-bird ;
to the latter of Avhich it has some resemblance^,
and is of the same size. The bill is a little an-
gular and bent towards the point, the nostrils are
covered with a thin membrane, and the corners
of the mouth furnished with hairs ; the feet and
position of the toes are like those of the black-
bird, and its tail is cuneiform and about five
inches long : the whole plumage is of a glossy
black, of this colour are also the eyes, bill, feet,
and even the flesh and bones.

This bird is highly prized for the melody and

209

compass of ils note; it imitates very well the
song of other birds, aiul when in a cage is easily
taiig-ht to speak; it feeds upon seeds, worms, and
flesh, and frequently pursues and kills small
birds, tlic brains of \vhich it eats. Notwith-
standing this ravenous propensity it is easily
tamed, and a few days are sufScient to reconcile
it to confinement.

The cureu, like the starling, is a social bird,
and is daily to be seen in large flocks feeding in
the meadows, which, when at evening they re-
tire to their roosts, make the air resound with
their sprightly notes. They build their nests,
with much skill, of small iw\s:s interwoven with
rushes, and cemented with clav, which they
bring in their bills and claws. When the nest
is formed, the female smooths it upon the outside
w itli her tail, which serves as a trowel, and lines
it within with hair, upon which she lays three
white eggs of a blueish cast.

The lojjca (sturnus loyca) is larger than the
starling, which it resembles in its bill, tongue,
feci, tail, and nianncr c.f fcediiig. The male ii
of a dark grey, spotted v, ith m bite, except the
throat, which is scarlet; the female is of a lighter
grey, avid ihn red on the throat is paler; it builds
its nest, in a careless manner, in any hole which it
finds ill the grorind, and lays but liiree grey eggs
marked with browii. This bird is also valned
for its singing, and is ea-ily tamed. In its slate

\0L. 1. P

210

of freedom^ the male, accompanied by the fe-
maJc, rises perpendicularly in the air, constantly
singing, and descends in the same manner. The
Indians entertain some superstitious opinions re-
specting the singing' of this bird, and they employ
the feathers of its breast to ornament their head-
dresses.

The rara (phytotoma rara, gen. nov. ) is about
the size of a quail, and appears to be the only
species of its genus, the passeres of Linna3us.
Its bill is thick, conical, straight-pointed, serrated
at the edges, and half an inch long, the tongue
short and blunt, the pupil of the eye brown, the
tail of a middle length and rounded, and upon
each foot it has four toes, three before, and one
behind, rather shorter ; its general colour is
grey, dark upon the back, and lighter upon the
belly ; the prime feathers of the wings and the
side feathers of the tail are tipped with black.
Its note is harsh and broken, and sounds like the
two syllables that form its name. It feeds upon
grass, which it has a mischievous propensity of
})ulling up from the roots, and often, through
mere wantonness, a much greater quantity than
it eats. On this account the husbandmen are at
continual war with it, and the children are re-
warded for destroying its eggs. It builds its nest
in dark and solitary places upon the highest
trees, and, by this means, escapes, in a great
•leasure, the pursuits of its enemies; but iti^

211

numbers liave, however, become considerably dir
iiiinished, either from this causC;, or from the
species being naturally unprolifjc.

There are three different kinds of the parrot
in Chili, one of which is constantly to be found
in the country, but the others are birds of pas-
sage. The first species, called thecau (psittacns
cyanalysios) is a little larger than a common
pigeon, and is decorated with a superb blue
collar ; the head^ wings, and tail are green spot-
ted with yellow ; but the back, throat, and belly
are yellow ; the tail is of a middle length and
equal. These birds are very numerous, and
Tery destructive to the corn ; they fly in large
(locks, and whenever they light upon a field to
feed, one of their number is stationed upon a tree
as a sentinel, who advertises his companions by
frequent cries of the approach of danger. This
renders them difficult to be approa hed, . . u the
only means of obtaining a number of them at a,
shot is by throwing a hat in the air, which they
fly at with incredible eagerness. They make
their nests among the steepest declivities, in
which they scoop deep and winding hole«, and
lay two white eggs of the size of a pigeon's.
Although their nests appear to be inaccessible,
the peasants take great numbers of their young.
In order to do this, they let themselves down by
a rope to the mouth of the holes, and draw the
young parrots out with a kind Qf hook made for

the purpose. These are a cheap and excellent
food; I have seen eight of them sold for the
smallest coin of the country, about three sous.
TV hen the first brood is taken away, they hatch
a secondj sometimes a third, and even a fourth ;
to this wonderful fecundity is owing the great
numbers of these birds, which frequently destroy
the crops. They are easily tamed, and readily
taught to speak.

Those which are migratory are the choroi and
the jaguilnia. I call them migratory, from their
inhabiting the Andes in summer, and not appear-
ing in Chili until the winter. Both these species
are of the size of a turtle-dove, and belong to
the family of parroquets.

The upper part of the body of the choroi
(psittacus choracus) is of a beautiful green,
the belly is of an ash colour, and the tail well
proportioned. This Lird is taijght to speak much
better than either of tlie others.

Thcjns;uilma (psittacus jaguilma) is entirely
green, excepting the edges of tlie wings, which
are brown. The tail is very long and pointed.
This species appears to be the most prolilic. In
Ihc ])iains situated between the 34lh and 45tli
cegrces of latitude, it is frequently seen in such
i:*j.n]crous flocks as almo-:t to surpass belief,
TT hen they quit a field where they have b' en
feeding, in ordar U) full u[)()n another, tl:(y i\c~
tjueiitiy obscure the bun, and their cliattciiug.

213

v,liicli is Ycry unpleasant, is lieard at a great
distance. Fortunatelj, tliis destructive race
does not arrive till aficr the harvest, and departs
befijrc the trees bet;!ri toput forth, otherwise they
woiihl lay -waste the whole country. It is in-
credible what havcc thev make while they slay,
as they devour not only the tops of the plants,
but even the roots. An inconceivable quantity
of tlioin is killed in the fields^ but so far from di-
minishing their numbers, on the contrary, they
appear to be increased at every return. When-
ever these birds alight upon a field, tlie hus-
bandrtien furnish themselves with long poles, and,
mounted on swift horses, fall upon th.em unex-
pectedly, and as tiiey are always in large flocks,
and keep very close together, they cannot flv off
so quickly but that great niuiibers of tlicm arc
generally left dead on the ground. The flesh is
delicious, and preferable to that of anv other
species of the parrot.

Ill almost all parls of America is found a
sp«'^cics of water-hen, v^illi armed wings, (-spe-
cially at Brasil, where it is called the jriCiina,
That of Chili, called the ///i'l;-/;^/ (parra Chilen-
sis) is of the size of a pie, but its legs are
longer ; its head is black, ornamcii'icd witli a
small crest, the neck, back, and upper part of the
wings are purple, the throat and upper part of
the breast black, and the bell v i^ white. The
C\\\l\h of the wings and Ihc'tail are ^liort ond gf

i'3

214

a deep brown ; on the forehead it has a red fleshy
excrescence^ divided into two lobes; the iris of
the ejes are yellow, and the pupil brown ; the
bill is conical, a little bent towards the point,
and about two inches long; the nostrils are ob-
long and very open, and the legs, v» hich are bare
of feathers below the knees, have four long toes
that are separate, but more proportionate to its
size than those of the Erasil species. The spur,
"which is placed on the joint of the wing, is six
lines long and three broad, and is of a yellowish
colour and conical form.

A bird as well armed as this cannot want for
means of defence in case of necessity, and it of
course fights with great courage and \igour
every thing that attempts to molest it. It is
never seen in elevivic'd places, and uevce perches
upon trees, but lives wholly in the piams, and
feeds upon insects and worms. It builds its
nest in the grass, where it lays four fawn-co-
loured eggs, spotted with black, a I'ttle larger
than those of a partridge. It keeps in pairs,
and the male and female are almost always toge-
ther, but it is very rarely to be seen in flocks.
When they perceive any one searching for their
nest, they at first conceal themselves in the grass,
without discovering any apprehension ; but as
soon as they see the person approaching the spot
where the nest is placed, they rush out with fury
to defend it. It is observed that this bird never

215

makes the least noise during the day, and that it
cries at night only when it hears some one passing.
For this reason, the Araucanians, wlien at war,
are accustomed to watch the cry of this bird,
whicli serves tlicm as a sentinel to inform them
of the approach of an enemy. They were for-
merly accustomed in Chili to hunt these birds
with the falcon, but this mode has been long out
of use, and they are at present shot with fowling-
pieces. It is good game, and in no respect iiv
ferior to the woodcock.

The 'piuqucn (otis Chilensis) is a species of
bustard larger than that of Europe. It is
almost entirely white, excepting its head and the
upper part of its wings, which are grey, and the
first quills, which are black. Its tail is short,
and composed of eighteen white feathers. It
has no excrescence either beneath the throat, or
upon the bill, which resembles that of the com-
mon bustard. Its feet are divided into three
toes before, and a fourth, rather more elevated,
beliiiid. It inhabits the plains, v, here it is almost
always found i\\ flocks; it fe«eds upon grass, and
does not begin to breed until two years old; it
lays six white eggs larger tlian those of the goose,
is easily tamed, and many of the country people
have domesticated it.

The cJieiiquc, or American ostrich (struthio
rca) is principally found in the environs of tii'*
celebrated lake of Nahuelguapi, 'v\t\\e valleys of

p 4

the Andes. In height it is nearly equal to a
mail; its neck is two feet eight inches long, and
its legs of the same length ; its head small and
round, and covered with feathers ; its eyes and
eyelids are blacky and furnished with eyebrows;
its bill is short and broad like thit of the duck,
and the feet have three toes entirely separate
before, and the vestige of a fourth behind ; its
tail is composed of several short feathers of an
equal length, which grow out of the rump. Its
wings are eight feet in length from their extre-
mities, but not calculated for flight, owing to the
great fiexibility and weakness of the feathers.
The plumage of the back and wings is of a dark
.grey, but that of the other parts of the body is
V. bite. Among these birds are found some that
are entirely whi>!e, and others tliat arc black, but
I consider Ihcm merely as varieties.

The clienque has not, like the African ostrich,
a horny subfetaacc upon its v/ings, iiar callosities
on the sternum, br.t it is quite as voracious, and
swallows vvhatever is ofrercd it, even iran. Its
favourite food is flics, wliich it catches with
much dexterity. It has no defence but its feet,
wliicli it employs ag-ainiii tlose who molest it.
Its whi-jtle, when it calls its young, resembles
that of a man. it lays from forty to sixty eggs
in a careless manner iipon the ground ; they are
wcii tasted, and so large that they will contain
.il){;i;t two pounds of liquor. The featiiers are

217

ernplovcd for many purposes; the Indians make
of (liem plumcSj parasols^ &c. M. de Faaw,
who freqiientlv lo^es si9;hi of tlie title of his
v/ork^ represents Ihe eheuque as a degenerate
speeiei of the African ostrich, because it has
three toes instead of two; but were these birds
of the same species, wliich is far from being the
case, I am of opinion that the term degenerate
would be more applicable to the African ostrich,
as being less perfect in its limbs, than to that of
America.

The pcqiicn (strix cunicularia) a species of
the owl, is rem.arkable for the large burrows
which it makes in the ground to deposit its eggs.
Feuille asserts that he himself had endeavoured
to dig to the end of one of them, but was
obliged to relinquish the attempt. This bird is
of the size of a pigeon, but its beak is very strong
and crooked, it has large nostrils, and large eyes
with a yellow iris; the upper part of its body is
grey, spotted with white, the lower part of a
dirij w liitc ; the tail, which scarcely extends be-
yoiid tlie qoills of the wiiigs, is cf the same
colour ; its thighs arc covered with feathers,
uiid the fret with tubercles, upon which are some
short hiir? ; tlie toes are strong, and armed with
black crooked talons. It is not so averse to light
jis otli'M's of 1^5 species, and is frequently seen by-
da y i'l conip-;nv with the female, neaj" the mouth
of its liol;v Its principal food is insects and rep-

218

tiles, the remains of which are often found in
small fragments before its hole. Its cry is lu-
gubrious and broken, and imitative of its name.
The eggs are usually four, and are white spotted
with yellow. The Abbe Feuille praises the
flt'sn of this bird, but I never could learn that it
was eaten by the inhabitants.

The tharu (falco tharus) is a species of eagle
very common in Chili, of the size of a capon.
The male is whitish, marked with black spots,
and has upon its head a kind of crown formed
of black feathers, longer at the sides than the
middle. Its back is whitish like that of the
common eagle ; the feet are yellow, and covered
with scales, and the toes armed with crooked
talons ; the great feathers of the wings and the
tail are black. The female is less than the male,
is of a grey colour, and has a black comb upon
her head. This bird builds its nest upon the
loftiest trees, with sticks placed in the manner of
a square grate, upon which it heaps a considera-
hlf quantity of wool, tow, and feathers. It lays
five white cggs^ speckled with brown, and feeds
upon several kinds of animals, and even upon
carcasses, but is never seen openly to pursue its
prey like others of its species, but seizes it by
stratagem. The malewalks erect with an air of
gravity ; his cry is harsh and disagreeable, and
whenever he utters it he throws liis h*ad back
?ipon his rump.

219

The jot a (vultor jota) resembles much the
aura, a species of vulture^ of which there is
perhaps but one variety. It is distinguished,
however, by the beak, which is grey with a black
point. All the plumage is black, except the
q''ills of the wings, which are brown ; its head
is f^^stitile of feathers, and covered with a
wrinkled skin of a reddish colour ; the legs are
brown. It acquires its colour with age; for
when it is young it is almost white, and does not
begin to change until after it has quitted the nest.
The first black spots appears upon the back, and
is very small, but exte.>ds gradually over the
whole body. Notwithstanding the size of this
bird, which is nearly that of the turkey, and its
strong ail J crooked talons, it attacks no other,
but feeds principall} upon carcasses and reptiles.
It is extremely indolent, and will frequently
remain for a long time almost motionless, with
its wings extended, sunning itself upon the rocks
or the roofs of the houses. When in pain, which
is the only time that it is known to make any
noise, it utters a sharp cry like that of a rat, and
usually disgorges what it has eaten. The flesh
of this bird emits a fetid smell that is highly
olFeiisive. The manner in which it builds its
nest is perfectly correspondent to its natural in-
dolence ; it carelessly places between rocks, or
even upon the ground, a few dry leave? or

S20

feathers, upon which it lavs two cg^s of a dirty
white.

The bird universally known in Peru by the
name of" condor (vultur gryphus is in Chili
called manque, and is unquestionably the largest
that has the pov.er of supporting itself in the
air. Linna^iis makes its wingS;, when extended,
sixteen feet from one extremity to the other, but
the largest ihat I have seen was but fourteen feet
and some inches Its body is much larger than
that of the royal eagle, and is entirely tovered"^
with black feathers, exccptii.g the back, which
is white. The neck is encircled v.'ith a M'hite
fi inge, composed of pr.jecting feathers about
an inch in lenglh. The head is covered with
si )rt and tl:in hairs, the iridcs of the eyes are of
a leddich brown, and the pup;;:-, black. The
beak is four i'lches long, very large and crooked,
black fit its base, and white towards the point,
ilie uTcatcr qi-ills of tlic winas are usually two
kc± nine inches long, attd one third of an inch in
diameter. 'J'he ihigli is ten iiiches and two thirds
in length, but tlie leg docs not exceed six inclies ;
tiie foot is fr.rnisiicd with four strong toes, the
hindmost of ^^l:ieh is about two inches long,
with but one joint, and a black nail an inch in
lenglli ; tlie middle toe has three joints, \i is
nearly six inches long, and is terminated by a
crof)ked whitish nail of two inches; the other

^21

toes arc a li(tle shorter, and are armed with strcnj^
and crooked talons. The tail is entire^, hut small
ill proportion to the size of the bird. The
female is I;'5-s than the male, and of a brownish
colour; she has no fringe about the neck, but a
small tuft upon tlie hinder part of it. She builds
her nest upon the most steep and inaccessible
clilfs, and lajs two v/hitc eggs larger than those
of the turkey.

The condors feed cither upon carcasses, or
upon animals which they kill themselves, and
thus supply the place of wolves, which are
imknown in Chili. They frcqiicntly attack
flocks of sheep or goats, and even calves Mhen
they are separated from tlio cows. In the latter
c:ise tlierc arc always several of them together,
Vv'ho flv upon the calf with their wings extended,
dig out its eyes, and in a few moiricnts tear it in
})icccs.

The husbandmen make use of every stratagem
to destroy so dangerous a bird. For this purpose
they sometimes envelope tht;inselves in llicskin of
:!n ox newly slayed, and place themsiihes on
their backs upon the ground ; the coiulor, de~
ceived by the appearaiicc, approa'jiics the sup-
posed dead aniiiial to devour it, ^^ lu ii ;hepcr-on
%vi(hjn, v,ho-e hands arc j)roteck-,l bv s'.nv.jg
g]()^es, (lc?^(erously sei/es the ]vf'< ol* (he I'ird,
;iial iioUls it until his ceiiijjar.ior.s, ( ()..c;:a]<'d hard
in-, ru:i up (o hi:, assi^la>.ce, ana di:j'aL:h it wiih
vlnhs. Anotlier mode i; lo form :i ^i:iali circtilar

222

enclosure with palisades, in which is placed the
carcass of some animal. The condors, who pos-
sess great acuteness of sight and smell, are imme-
diately attracted thereby, and as they are extremely
voracious, they gorge themselves to such a degree
with food, that not being able readily to rise,
and obstructed by the narrowness of the enclo-
sure, they are easily killed by those who lie in
wait for them. The condor, however, possesses
great strength of wing, and though filled with
food, if it can once raise itself, or is upon an
eminence, it will fly with great swiftness, and
soon disappears in the air. M. de Bomare ob-
serves, that there is very little difference, except
in its colour, between the condor and the laem-
mergeyer of Switzerland ; and I am of opinion
that it is only a variety of the same species.

Of bats, an animal that holds a middle station
between birds and quadrupeds, there arc but two
species in Chili : the house-bat, which is in no
respect different from the European, and the
mountain-bat, which is of the same size and
shape, and distinguishable only by its being of
an orange colour. Neither of these are vam-
pyres, as are those of the southern torrid zone,
but feed entirely upon insects.

Sect. VI. Quadrupeds. — I have already esti-
mated the number of quadrupeds in Chili at
thirty-six species, without including those that
have been imported. I have even excepted the

223

hog and the dog, although I do not consider
them as procecdmg from a European stock, as
the proper names which they both have in the
Chilian language distinguished them from foreign
animals. Even Acosta, who wrote shortly after
the conquest, does not venture to give a decisive
opinion respecting the origin of the domestic
hog of Peru, The hog of Chili, called by the
Indians cliancliu, is similar in its appearance to
that of Europe ; it is full as large, and generally
white, in which respect it differs from that of
Peru, which is always black.

As to the dog, Avithout pretending that all
the kinds at present found in the country were
there before the arrival of the Spaniards, I have
reason to believe that the little barbet, called
kiUlio, and tlie common dog, thcgua in Chilian,
the breeds of which are found in all parts of
America, as far as Cape Horn, were known in
Chili before that period. These dogs, it is true,
bark like those of Europe, but this is not a con-
clusive reason for supposing them io be derived
from that race. The gencrrvl opinion that the
American dog is dumb, has unquestioiial)lv arisen
from the circumstance of the fhst conquerors
haven given similar names to iho.-c anima - of
the new world, which b->ic some r??emb]ance to
fho^e of the old. This is ct)ur..:'U-d bv the
learned Ab'jc Claviircio, v> l:o, in iiis Hisiory of
:Mc.\ito, sa^s that the msi Siiaiiiards who came

224

to that country gave the name of dog to the
fechici,* a dumb animal^ resembling the dog ia
its appearance, but of a very different genus.
This external resemblance has given rise event-
ually to the opinion that the American dogs never
bark J and many naturalists, who incautiously
adopt this error, have been the means of perpet-
uating it to the present day. Another opinion,
equally destitute of foundation, is, that the Eu-
ropean dogs that were left on the island of Juan
Fernandez, at the time it was uninhabited, had
lost their voices, and were unable to bark, which
I have been well assured by the present inhabit-
ants is an utter falsehood.

The erroneous names given to particular
animals, uiany of which are still retained, have
proved very injurious to the natural history ot
America. From this source have proceeded
those visionary hypothesis of the degeneracy ot
its quadrupeds, the supposed Utile stags, bears,
and boars of thiit country, considered as so manv
pigmy breeds, although they have no other con-
nection Willi tlie pretended primitive race than
these iil-applied names. A very respectable
modern author mentions as a proof of this de-
generacy, tile ant-eater, called by some authors
the ant-bear, and considered as a degenerate spe-

'^ TIic or; b- a'or, or dog crab-tatcr, so called from its fted-
iii^' f:;iiicip J _\ ujM'i; cnil?.

^25

CiC? of the hear. T^ut this quadruped differs
essentially from the beai' in other respects thaa
iis size, and all well-informed naturalists are
aj;Teed that this animal belongs neither to the
geims nor the or>!er of bears ; it is of course
riciicuhnis to bring forward in support of thig
hvpothcsis, two animals so disiinct as to have
nothing' in common but a name so improperly
given to ove of them. I could adduce a great
number of instances of this kind, were I to go
through with the vari.)us quadrupeds of America
that have been considered as species of the old
continent;, altered by the physical influence of
the new.

South America possesses but a very few spe-
cies of animals that are similar to those of the
old world, and these have preserved their origi-
nal appearance, or rather, as might be expected
from the influence of so mild a climate, haye
improved it. Of this number, in Chili, arc the
thii fox, the hare, the otter, and the mouse.
The foxes are of three kinds : the guru, or the
common fox, the chilla, or the field fox, and the
paijiic-guru, or the blue fox. This last is very
common in the Archipelago of Chiloe, where it
h black. All these foxes aie of the same size as
the European fox.

In its form the hare of Chili resembles that of
Eiir pe, but is superior to it in size, for it ii
sometimes found of twenty pounds weiji,ht> a

YOL. I. Q

<*o^:

26

fact confirmed bv Commodore Bvron, Aviiose
sailors killed several of them upon the coast of
Pa<ag'onia. These hares are foimd in a-rcat
numbers in the provinces of Coquimbo, Piicha-
cay, and lluilquilemu. The ficsh is perfectly
white, and of a much superior fiavoiir to that of
the European hare. The otter inhabits the fresh
waters of the southern proviaces^ and differs in
no respect frosii that of Europe. The rat has
been iir.ported in foreign * vessels^ and of the
mouse there are various species; the domestic
mouse, the ground mouse, and several others,
which I shall more particularly describe here-
after.

In confining the number of quadrupeds in
Chili to thirty-six species, I have reference only
to those that arc well known ; but I am fully
persuaded that there is a much greater number,
especiiillv in the interior of the Andes, that are
as yet undisco\crcd or very imperfectly known.

* A siiip frr.:;; Autv.erp, wliich went tliruiigli the straits, is
sriiu to iu;vc c;inied the iwfX ruts to America. They appeared
ill Chili, a!i(l nvjiiiplicd tiiere .so as to he very niiscliievous, but
\\\ r?v;il!e5 limt; I'loy were slill eoiiiined to the c()ast. (L 1.
C "].) The lir^t cat wiiieh vv;is tiia* ;i t-o Viiicrira \\as pre-
scv;le({ bv Mouler.e'^ro to A'rua'iro, wju) ^.ave hiiii in lelurii
six luiiuired pieces. \\ hitli -Litoii's ' .'.t hi'.rdiy turned out a
better venture. This is ;i goud trait i;i Ahuagro's eliaracter —
one or t!;e bcsl-lieait'-d nicu umoug ail the eonquerDr.". — E.E.

Ihrreru, Dn. j, L 7. C Q.

§27

This opinion is confirmed by ihe common tradi-
tji>n'> of llip countrv ; and i have been informed
of cii-ht \ir-\y species that have been discovered
a(: various liinc; ; but as the descriptions I have
received of llicra have been very imperfect^ and
ih'^ ajiiiuals have beea seen but by few, I have
tlioui^ht them not sufiiciently characterized to
merit a place among' those v/hose economy is
well known.

Such, for instance, is the piguchen, a winged
quadruped^ or species of large bat, which, if its
existence is real, forms a very important link,
between birds and quadrupeds. This animal is
said to be of the size and shape of a tame rab-
bit, and to be covered with fine hair of a cinna-
mon colour; the nose sharp, the eyes round and
shinini!', the ears almost invisible, the wings
membraiiaeeoiis, the paws short and like tho^e
of the lizard, the tail round at the root, and
ending like that of a fish. It inhabits holes in
trees, whicli it leaves only at night, and does
no injury to any tiling but insects,, which serve
it for food.

Of this kind is likewise the hippopotamus of
the rivers and the lakes of Arauco, which is dif-
ferent from that of AtVica, and in iti form and
stature resembles the horse, but the feet are
palniated like those of the seal. The existence
of this animal is universal! v credited through-
evi the countrv, and there are soms perscus whs'

22S

pretend io have seen the skin, \\liich, they say,
is covered with a very soft and sleek hair, re-
semh!in«>' in colonr that of the sea-wolf.

But leaving the examination of these animals
to those who liavc an opportunity of nuiking
farther discoveries respecting- them, I shall pro-
ceed to treat of tliose that are known, which 1
shall divide into those that have toes, or are di-
gitated, and those that are hoofed. This divi-
sion^ although imperfect, appears to me to be
better adapted than a more technical one, for tlie
arrangement of so small a number of species.
Those which have toes are either web-footed or
cloven-footed. The former live in the vvater^
and feed upon fish. Those who inhabit the sea
are the following :

The urignc ( phoca lupina). This species of
phoca, which the French and Spaniards call the
sea-wolf, differs but little from the common seal ;
this difiererce principally consists in its size and
colour. It is from three to six and even eiglit
feet in length ; and its colour is brown, grey,
and sometiiues whitish, but ail of these are
merely varieties of the same species. This
animal is large forw ard, butgradually diminishes,
like a fish, towards the hi.ider feet, which are
united within the same skin, and form the extre-
mity of its body. It is covered with two kinds
of fiair, one stiff, and the other soft like that of
ail ox. The head is large and round, and re-

229

seuibles tliat of a dog wiHi the cars cutoff, and
instead of the latter it has two oblique holes
whieli serve for tlie same purpose. The eyes are
large, globular, and furnished with long eye-
lashes ; the nose is like that of the calf, as is the
tongue ; the riuizzle is short and blunt, with
long whiskers, the lips being of equal size, hut
the uDpcr a little channelled like that of the
lion. The teeth are thirty-four in number: ten
incisors, four canine, and twenty grinders. The
forefeet, or more properly fins, hive two very
perceptible joints, one corresponding with the
shoulder-blade, the other with the elbow ; the
metacarpal bones ai^d the toes are cartilaginous,
and enclosed in a membraneous sheath, which
performs the oflice of a fore paw. Each of
tlicse f et has four toes, which disimguishes this
froiii the other species of the phoca. The ex-
trtiriity of the body, which is tapered almost to
a point, is divided into two very short parts, re-
presenting the hind feet, the joints of which are
very visible. These feet are f\unished with five
fingers of an unequal length, like those on the
hand of a ir.an, united froni the first to the third
joint by a rough membrane, whi h completely
envelopes each fing'M', and even extends beyond it.
At the junction of thr hind feet is situated the
tail, which is about tliree inches in length. In
both sexes the ge •eiative parts are placed :t the
lower part of the bell v. They usually copu-

q3

220

late the latter part of autumn;, and the female
brings forth her young in the spring'^, of which
she has generally two^ sometimes three at a birth.
She is distinguished from the male by a longer
neckj and a more delicate and beautiful form.
The urigne abounds in blood, v/hich, whenever
it is woundedj flows from it in great quantities;
like many other aquatic animals, it has beneath
the skin a covering of soft fat ; this is five inches
in thickness, and easily reducible to oil, JSot-
withstanding the inconvenient coni'ormation of
their feet for that puipose, they readily climb
up the rocks, on whicli they are fond of sleeping,
though they walk very badiy, or rather draw
themselves, when on shore from one place to
another. It would, however, be very imprudent
to approach thern carelessly, for although so
heavy and clumsy in appearance, their necks have
great flexibility, and thev are capable of inllict-
in;>; severe wounds vvitb their lon^r teeth.

These phoc?E swiin with great swifiness, and
ma.ke use principally of their hind feet, whici: they
extend in a slraiglil tine, so as at a (iistance to re-
semble the tail of a fish. They cannot re r:ain
lona: under water, and frequentlv raise their
heads to breathe, or to watch tlie approach of
penguins and other aquatic birds, of v^hichthey
make their prey. The cry of the old urignes
resembles the roaring of a bull or the grunting
of a hog, while that of the young is more like

231

the ])]eatin[:^ of a shepp. They are common
upon all the coast of Chili, and in the islands;
%v}icre, every year, the inliabitauts kill a vast
immber of them with clubs, a slight blow across
tlie nose, which is their most tender part, being-
siiflkient to dispatch them. The skin is em-
ployed for varioiis purposes, particularly for
making a kind of flout, which is used in fishinf?;
and in passing rivers. This consists of two large
ball ons, from eight to nine feci in length, formed
of these skins, carefully joined and sewed, and
inflated with air; u{)on these are placed several
pieces of wood laid transversely, which will con-
tain one or more persons. When the skin is well
dressed it resembles coarse-grained morocco
leather, but is superior to it in point of con-
sistency and durability; shoes and boots are also
made of it that are impenetrable to water. The
oil which is obtained from the fat forms a con-
siderable article of connnerce with the inhabit-
anti of Cliiloe. It is used in dressing leather^
and, when clarified, for burning, and is preferred
to that of the whale, as it kec[)s better, and re-
tains its clearness for a longer time. The sailors
make use of it for frying their fish, and the taste
is nt)t unpleasJ3nt when it is fresh. In the s(o-
marh of this animal are frequently found stones
of several pounds weight, which it probably
swallows to triturate its food, and accelerate the
process of digestion.

232

The sea-hog (phoca porcina) resembles the
urigne in its shape^ hair^ and manner of livings
but differs from it in the conformation of its
mouthy -svhich is longer^ and resembles the snout
of a hog. Its ears are likewise more raised, and
the fore feet divided into five ver^/ distinct toes,
covered with a membrane. This phoca, which
is from three to four feet in lengthy is but rarely
met with on the coast of Chili.

The lame, sea-elephant^ or elephantine seal
(phoca elephantica) is similar in form to the
preceding^ but distinguished from it by very
striking characteristics. It is of a very great
size, being frequently fifteen feet in circum-
ference around the breast, and twenty-two feet
in length. Upon its nose is a comb, or glandular
trunk, extending from the forehead bejond the
upper lip^ and serving as a species of defensive
armour against blows, which upoii that part are
almost always fatal. The tusks of the lower jaw
project at least four inches from it, and this sin-
gularity, together with the trunk, give it some
faint reseniblatice to the elephant. The feet f-re
divided into five toes, half covered with a cori-
aceous membrane indented upon the sides, each
furnished v.ith a strong crooked nail. The ears,,
at first sight, appear to be truncated, but, on
rearer view are found to be ncarlv half an iiu h
lon2", a'.id in shape like those of a dog. The
gkiu is thicker than that of the uriguc^ and co-

233

Ycrrd with short, tliick, and soft hair^ the colour
of wliich is various, being a mixture of dun,
ycHow, grey, and dirty white. The female is of
a less size, and not so fat as the male, and
has but a slight appearance of a trunk upon the
nose.

Lord Anson has improperly called this animal
the sea-lion; and Linnanis, from his authority,
has denominated it phoca Iconina, an appellation
niLieh more appropriate to another animal of the
same genus, but of a very difierent species.
The lames are found in the greatest numbers on
the island of Juan Fernandez, the Araucanian
coast, the Archi[)elaiio of Chiloe, and the Straits
of Maxell tn. They herd together in large
companies, and during the summer are almost
coiitiiuiallv in the sea, but on the commencement
of v/ inter they go on shore, where they bring
forth their voung. Tliev copulate, like the
urignes, hv raising themselv(>s on their hind feet,
and have the same number of young with them
Allien onshore they frequent miryphices, Mherc
tliey wallow and frequentlv sleep, placing, as a
.sentinel, one of their imniber upon a rising
ground, who gives notice of the approach of any
danger by frightful bowlings.

The sea-elephant is \hc largest of the phoca.
and prodiiees more oi! than luiy of the others; it
is so i'di iha', whenever it move-:, the oil is seen
to uiidulute beneath the skin. The mules appear

^4'

to be very amorous, and. frequently fight for the
exclusive possession of the females, until the
death of one of them terminates the contest ;
from this cause the skins of so many of them are
covered with scars. Whenever the males fight,
the females retire apart, awaiting the issue of a
combat which is to place them in possession of
the victor.

The sea-lion (phoca leonina) is of a better
proportioned and more elegant form than any
other species of phoca, though like the rest its
shape is conical. It is covered with a yellowish
hair, wliicii from the shoulders to the tail is
short, but on the neck and near the head is as
long as that of a goat, and forms a very percepti-
ble mane, that distinguishes this from every other
kind of phoca. Tlie Indians call it tJwpel-lamc,
that is, the lame with a mane. Its head resem-
bles that of the lion, it has a large flat nose,
vvithout hair from (he middle to the i'qi ; the ears
are almost round, and stand oiri about (we-thirds
of an inch from the head; its eyes, the pupils of
Arnicli arc grecni^-h- are very bright and spark-
jir.g, and the upper lip is furnished with long-
white whiskers, like tl:osc of a tiger. The
mouth is very wide, and has thirty-four teeth set
deep in the jaw, which are very large and solid,
and as white as ivory ; the middle teeth are
about four inches in length, and an inch and a
lialf in diameter ; the incisors do not project

from the moiitli, liketlio'ic of the lamo, but their
disposition is simihir to tliose of the iirign*^. In
the confoimation of the hinder ^cc^i it also re-
seinhles lliat animal, cxcoptthat tliose of the sea-
lion are ]>:ilniated. The fore feet are cartilagi-
nous, vtry short in proportion to its size, divided
in(o five toes, terminated by nails, and united by
a membra' e, in the manner of those of the rle-*
phantine seal. Tlie tail is about nine inches
Ions;', and is round and black.

The fema]« is much smaller than the male, and
has no mane; it has two teats, and produces but
one younp; at a birth, towards vshich it discovers
great aCVction. The Abbe Peniettv, in the ac-
count of his voyage to the Mahuiine islands,
mention? his having seen sea-lions of twenty-two
iv.e.i in length, but the largest that I have seen in
Chili did not exceed thirteen or fourteen ieei.
These animals arc very fat, and no less sin- -
guineous than the urigne. When wounded,
ihev iiinnediately throw {hemselves into the sea,
and leave a long track of blood behind them,
wliich serves as a guide for the lames and uriines,
who in this state of weakness atfat k and easily
overcome and devour them. Tliij disposition,
ho V. ever, is not rec proeal, as the sea-lion never
atteinjUs to har'n any of the other ])hocs, even
Vvlien thev are U!ia!)l(i to protect thtinSvlves.

i have been intbrmed bv the tishennen that
ihey hnve occasionally seen i\\ tlie^c s*as vaiious

236

other kinds of pliocjCj which may be similar to
those found in the North Sea, described by
Steiler, and very probably some that are entirely
unknown to naturalists, for 1 am of opinion that
this genus is more abundant in species than is
generally imagined.

The chinchiinen (mustela fcliiia) called by the
Spaniards the sea-cat, is about twenty inches in
length from the muzzle to the root of the tail.
It has a strong resemblance to a cat in its head,
cars and eyes, and in the shape and length of its
tail. The nose is furnished with whiskers, and
it has thirty-two teeth: twelve incisors which
are straight and sharp-pointed, four canine teeth,
and sixteen grinders. Each foot has five pal-
mated toes, terminated hy strong crooked nails.
The skin, like that of the otter, is covered with
two kiiids of hair, of a light grey colour, one
very short and soft, the other longer and harsh.
This animal lives almost altogether in the sea,
but is only seen in pairs, and never in companies.
in pleasant weather it is fond of basking in the
8un, and is frequently taken in snares upon the
rocks, whither at sucli times it is accustomed to
resort. The chiiichiniin has a hoarse cry like
the tiger, it is as ferocious us the wild-cat, and
like that animal springs at any one that ap-
proaches it.

Besides the otfcr, of which I have already
spoken, the IVesli waters of Chili are inhal)ited
by the guillino and the coj/pu.

The guillino (c;'.stor lliiidobiius) wliich I
have thus nanied in nieniDry of a deceased friend
of great literary atlaimiients^ Don Ig'nacius
Huidobrio, Marquis of Casa Reale^ is a species
of beaver, in hiah estimation for tlie fineness of
its fur. Its length, from the end of the nose to
the insertion of the tail, is about three feet, and
its height two. The colour of tlie hair is grey,
dark upon the back, and whitish on the belly ;
of this, like the northern beaver, it has two
kinds, the one short and fine and softer than that
of a rabbit, the other long and coarse and easilj
detacht^d from the skin. The short fur readily
takes any colour, and I have seen cloth manu-
factured from it dyed black and blue, which
had all the beauty of velvet ; it is also used for
maki.sg hats, that are no way inferior to the real
beaver. The head of this animal is almost
square, the ears are short and round, and the eyes
small, the nose is blunt, and the mouth is fur-
ni>:ied with two very sharp incisors in each jaw,
and with sixteen grinders ; on each foot it has
five toes, those before arc edged wiih a narrow
membrane, and the hinder ones are palmated ;
its b.u k is \ecy broad, and the tail long, flat, and
covered with hair. The guillino produces no
substLiiicc analogous to the castor ; it inhabits

the river'^. and the deepest lakes^ and can remain
a long time under water without respiring. It
feeds upon fish and crabs, and is usually sur-
prised and killed bv the hunters when it goes fo
void its excrements, which it regularly does
every day, like a cat, in the same place. It is a
voracious animal, and so fearless that it fre-
quently robs the nets and baskets of fish in the
presence of the fishermen. The female h-as tuo
or three young at a litter, and the period of ges-
tation, if I am not misinformed, is about five
months.

The coijpu (mus coypu) is a species of water-
rat, of the size of the otter, which it resembles
in its hair ai;d external appearance. It has
round cars, and a long nose covered with whis-
kers ; the feet are short, the tail large and of a
moderate length well covered with hair, and in
each jaw are two very sharp incisors. The feet
have each five toes, those of the fore feet are un-
conncclcd bv a membrane, but those of the hind
arc pahmited. Though the conformation of
this animal evinces thut it is inteiided as an in-
habitant of the Avater, it nevertheless lives very
w^ell upon the land, and even in houses, where it
is easily tamed, and soon becomes reconciled to
a domestic state. It ea^s any tiling tliat is given
it, and appears to be susceptible of mnch at-
tachment to the person who feeds it. lis cry is
a sharp shriek, but it never utters it except when

239

hurt. Willi a liiile patieTicc and care, it niiclif:
be rendered still more useful than the otter for
the purpose of takin^i; iish. The female has uve
or six vouiig" at a births by whom slie i« always
aerompanied.

Of the cloven-footed terrestrial quadrjipeds of
Chili, some are grameiiivorous, or such as feed
upon vegetables^ and others carnivorous; of ilie
latter are the chingliue, the ciija, the quiqid, the
porcupine, the cidpeii, the giifgna, the coloculo,
and the pagi.

The chinghuc (viverra chinga) is of the size
of a cat; its colour is black inclining to blue,
except upon the back, whicii is marked with a
broad stripe, composed of round wliite spots,
extending from the forehead to the tail. The
head is long, the ears are broad and well covered
with hair, the eyes large witli black pupils, tlie
nose is sharp, the upper lip extended beyond t!ie
lower, and the mout]i^ wliich is deeply clefts
contains twelve incisorial tcelh, four sharp ca-
nine, and sixteen grinders. The hind feet are
longer than the fore, and on each foot are five
toes armed with nails, which serve the atiinud to
dig; deep burrows in the enrth. wliere it secures
its yoiinrr. It alwavs carries its head down, ;t: d
the tail, which is covered with kini'; hair, tiirnei
ever upon its back like the vqr.irreL

The urine of the cliingliuc i> n^t. as is getic-
rally supposed, f^tid, but the odour, so disgunii.i^

no

it) every other animal, proceeds from a greenish
oil contained in a vesicle placed, as in the pole-^
cat, near the anuf?. When the animal is at-
tacked, it elevates its posteriors and scaiters this
loathsome liquid upon its assailant. Nothing
can equal the oficnsiveness of its smell; it pene-
trates everj where, and may be perceivea at a
great distance. Garments that are infected with
it cannot he worn for a long time^ and not until
repeated washings ; and the dogs, after having
been engaged with the chinghue^ run to the
water^ roll themselves in the mud, howl as if
they were mad, and will eat nothing as long as
the smell continues about them.

The cliiugliue^ when attacked, never makes use
of its teeth or claws, but relies entirely upon this
singular mode of defence. It appears to be at-
tached to the society of men, and approaches
them without the least apprehension, boldly en-
ters the country-houses to search for eggs^ and
passes fearlessly through the midst of the dogs,
who instead of attacking him ger.erally fly at his
approach. The liusbaniimen theniselves are
averse to shooting tiiis animal on su( h occasions,
lest, should thsy fail of killing it outright, they
should be annovod by its nauseous stench. In
order to free themselves from tins unwelcome vi-
sitor, they have recourse to another method,
whicii i"? attended with less risk. Some of the
cerspany begin by caressing it, until an oppor-

241

i unify offers for one of them to seize it by ihc
tail at>d Ik-^I it suspended. In this position the
muscles becoinii)^ contracted, tlie animal is un-
iihlv U) eject tlie {\uk\, and is dispiitched with
s'if.'ty. Tlie chinghue, howevcFj never has re-
course to this mode of annoyance against those
of its own species, but employs in lighting with
thfui its teeth and claws. It preys upon eg-gs
and poultry, which it is very dexterous iii taking*.
Its skin is closely covered with very soft lonp*
hair, and retains notliing of" that offensive smell
whieii mi'^'ht n:itur'iily be supposed The In-
dian^, when they can obtain a sufficient number
of these skins, make of them coverings for their
beds, which they value highly for their beauty
and the softness of the hair.

Tlie c?(7a(mu stela cuja) is a small animal re-
sembling a ferret in its size, form, and teeth, and
also in the disposition of its toes, and its manner
of living. The eyes are black, and the nose a
little turned up ai the end like a hog's ; its hair
is black, thick, and extremely soft, and the taii_,
wiiich is of the length of its body, is closely co-
vered with it. Its principal food is mice, which
it is in constant pursuit of The female breeds
twice a year, and has four or five young at a
birth.

The quiqui (mustcla quiqui) is a species of
weasel of a brown colour, thirteen inches long
from the nose to the tail. Tbs head is fiat the

VOL. I. R

§4S

<^ars short and round, the ej es small and sunken,
the nose cuneifoinij the nostrils compressed,
-with a Avhite spot between them, the mouth
broad like that of a toad, and the legs and tail
short. It has twelve incisors, the same number
of grindersj and four canine teeth, and the
tongue is very slender and smooth. The paws
resemble those of the lizard, and have five toes
armed with very crooked nails. It is naturally
ferocious, and so very irascible, that the in-
habitants give the name of quiqui to those per-
sons who are easily irritated. It lives under
ground, and feeds upon mice and moles like the
cuja ; the female breeds several times in a year,
and alvTays produces the same number at a
birth.

The j'Hjrcupine (bistrix Chilensis) is found in
the northern Andes of Chili. The inhabitants
kill them for the sake of their skins. I have
never seen this animal, but from the description
Mhich I have had of it, it differs little or nothing
from the bistrix prensile, or coaudu of Brasil.

The culpcii (canis culpcfMis) is a wild dog, or
rather a species of large fez, diifcriiig but little
from the comrnon foji, except in its size and its
colour, which is a dark brown, and in having a
loii.'i: strui-uiit tail covered with sl-ort hair like
that of the comuion dog. From the point of
the nose to Hie root of the tail it is two and a
kdW f ft. in Iciijrth, and its Lci'ilit is uboiit twen-

S43

tj-two inches. The shape of its ears, the po-
sition of its eyes, its teeih;, miu iLe u' position
of its toes, are precisely like those of the fox ;
like that animal it a!so burrows in the fields.
Its cry is feeble, and resembles the barking of a
little dog; and it preys upon small animals.
Whenever the culpeu perceives a, man, it comes
straight towards him, and at the distance of live
or six paces stops and looks attentiv ly at him.
If the person does not move, the animal remains
for some minutes in this situation, and without
attempting to do him any injury retires. This
singular curiosity of tlie culpeu is so well known
to the inhabitants, that, no one is afraid of it, and
I have myself several times met with it in the
woods, when it has uniformly acted in the same
manner. The name appears to be derived from
the Chilian word culpnii, which signifies mad-
ness or folly, and is Sbtrikingly applicable to the
conduct of this animal, which constantly ex-
poses it to be shot by the hunters, and is probably
the reason why it is less common in Chili than
the fox, though it is equally prolific. It is men-
tioned by Commodore Byron, who sav/ it in the
Falkland islands, and suppo'-ed it at first some
ferocious wild beast, from the manner of its ap-
proaching his men. Although the cilpcu does
not appear to be stronger linn the fox, it is with
much difficuliy that a dog can overcome it.
The u^ulnna (felis guigna) and the colocolG

2U

(felis colocok<) are hvo species of wild-Cati
which inhabit /he forests. They resemble the
doines(ic cat, but have a larger head and tail.
Tlie guigna is of a fawn coloiir, marked with
round black spots about five lines in diameter,
extending along- the back to the end of the tail.
The coloculo has a white bodv, marked with
irregular black and yellow spots, and the tail is
encircled with black rings. They prey upon
mice and birds, and sometimes ave seen near
conntry-houses, whither they are attracted by the
pouliry. I have been informed by some of the
inliabitants that there arc several other species of
the v/iid-cat, but I have seen only the two de-
scribed above.

The ficigi (fclir, puma) called by the Mexi-
cans milzii, and in Peru puma, the name by
which it is best known to iiaturalists, has by the
Spaniards been denominated the lion, which it
resembles in its shape and its roaring, but is
wholly destitute of a mane. The hair on the
upper part of i(s body h of a greyish ssh-colour,
marked wiili yellow ppots, arsd is longer tl an that
of the tiger, particuiarly on the bultocks, but
that on the belly is of a dusky while. Its length
from the nose to the root of the tail is about five
feet, and its height from t:;e bottom of the foot
to the shoulder twenty- six and a half inches. It
has a round head shaped mucii like that of a cat,
the curs are .short and pointed, the eyes large with

245

veilow iildcs and brown pupils. Its nose is broad
and flat, tiie muzzle short, the upper lip entire
and fnniished a\ iili. whiskers^ the mouth deep,
and the tongue large and rough. In each jaw it
lias tour ineisors, {(iur sharp-pointed canine teeth^
and sixteen grinders. Its breast is broad, the
p:uvs have e;ich five toes armed with very strong
nailsj and its tail is upwards of two i'ect in lengthy
and like that of the tiger.

The number of toes on the hinder feet would
alone be asufRcicnt characteristic to distinscuish
it from the real lion, which has but four. The
pagi may, however, he considered as an inter-
mediate species between the lion and the tiger.
Its cry, although not so loud, differs not mate-
rially from the roaring of the African lion, but
in the season of its loves beci)mes changed into a
.sliriil whistle, or rather a frightful hiss like that
of a serpent. The female is rather less than the
male, and is of a paler colour ; like the African
lioness, she has two dugs, and brings forih but
two young at a time. The season of copulation
is the end of winter, and the period of gestation
th.ree months.

Such is the lion of Chili ; it may, perhaps, in
other parts of America, oder some shades of dis-
crimiaahon, as i have been informed that those
of Peru luive a longer and more pointed muzzle.
The pagi inhabits the thickest forests and the
most inaccessible mountains, from whence it

246

makes irxiirsi ons into the plains to attack clornesr
tic animals^ particularly horses^ whose flesh it
prefers to that of any other. In its mode of
seizing its pray it resembles the cat ; it ap-
proaches it by drawing itself upon its belly,
glides softly through the shrubs and bushes, con-
ceals itself in the ditches, or, if it shews itself, as-
sumes a mild and fawning appearance, and,
watching the favourable opportunity of seizing'
the animal which it has marked for its victim, at
one leap fastens itself upon its back, seizes it with
its left paw and teeth in such a manner as to
render it impossible for it to escape, while with
the right paw in a few minutes it tears it to
pieces. It then sucks the blood, devours the
flesh of the breast, and carries the carcass into
the nearest wood, where it conceals it with leaves
and boughs of trees, in order to eat it at its
leisure.

As it is a common practice for the husband-
men to fasten Iwo of Ihcir horses together in the
flelds. whenever the P"gi fnuis them in this situa-
tion it kills one and drags it away, compelling
the other to follovv '■- strkving it from time to
iimii with its paw, and in this manner almost al-
ways succeeds in getting possession of both.*

* The ivrilf is said occasionally to adopt a sirnilar mode of
■ fanirny its prey. I have Icen assured by an intelligent
foreign -r, that it is not iinfrequent in France for that animal,
V hijri 'Jic presence of the shepherd, or any other circu-nistance.

247

Its favourite haunts are the streams to which
animals usually epair to drink, where it conceals
itself upon a tree, and scarcely ever fails of
seizins; one of them. The horses, however, have
aa instinctive dread of these places, and even
when pressed by thirst approach them with great
precaution, carefully examining upon every side
to discover if there is danger. At other times
one of the boldest goes forward, and on finding
the place secure, gives notice to his companions
hy neighing in a sprightly manner.

The cows, defend themselves well against the
pagi ; as soon as he appears they range them-
selves in a circle around their calves, vWth their
horns turned towards their assailant, await his
attack in that position, and not unfrequcntly de-
stroy him.

The mares, wl en there are anum.ber of them^
place themselves in the same manner, though in
an inverted order, around their colts, and attempt
to repel their enemy with their heels, but one of
them almost always becomes a victim to this
proof of maternal love. Ail those animals that
have not young, on the approach of the pagi at-
fe npt to save themselves by lligiit ; the ass alone.,
from his want of speed, is compelled to defend

prevents it from killing the sheep which it has singled out for
its victim at its leisure, tn seize it ly Liu wool of the nechy avd
row/jel if to go ojj' with it l>j striking it u iih its /ci/..,..Anier.

r4

himself with his heels, which frequently pro res
successful ; but should the pagi, njitwithstandiug
his efFoits, leap upon his backj he iininediately
throws himself oil the Jiroimd, and endeavours to
crush hiiHj or runs with all his force against the
trunks of trees^ holding his head down so as not
to dislocate his neck. Bj these means he gene-
rally succeeds in freeing himself from his as-
sailant, and there are but few asses destroyed by
an enemy so frequently fatal to much stronger
animals.

Notwithstanding his ferocity, the pagi never
ventures to attack a man, although he is conti-
nuallj' hunted and persecuted by the latter. He
is naturally a coward, and a woman or child will
make him fly and abandon his prey. He is
hunted with dogs trained for the purpose, and
when hard pressed by them, either leaps upon a
tree, seeks an asyluin upon a rock, or, placing
himself against the trunk of some large \xt<d, de-
fends himsrif in a furious manner, killing many
of his eccmie?, until the hui'.ter, watching his
opportnni(y, slips a noose around his neck. As
soon as the animal iinds himself taken iu this
manner, he roars terribly, ar,d sheds a torrent of
tears. The skin serves fur various uses ; good
leather for boots or shoes is m-.tuufactured from
it, and the fat is considered as a specific i\\ the
sciatica.

Of Ihj cloven- footed quadrupeds that feed

upon veg-etahles, tlie mo-t icmarliable in Cliili
are (he gnanqiic, the chinchilla, th(i great wood-
iiioi's •, the cuvnr, tlie ciiy, and the visaccia.

The pitanquc (r.uis eyanus) is a species of
gTound-moiise^ vvliich it resembles in its form
aijd size, but its ears are rounder and its hair
blue. It is a very timid animal, and digs a
burrow in form of a gallery ten feet l«ng, upon
each side of which it excavates seven cells of a
foot in depth opposite each other. These cells
serve as a phice of deposit for its winter provi-
sion, which consists of certain grey bulbous
roois of the size of a walnut. Some pretend that
these are a species of truflic, to which they bear
some re.-emblance in taste, but I am rather in-
clined to believe the:ii the roots of a plant. The
manner in wliicli this liiile animal arranges these
roots is really admirable. They are of an an-
gular form, but in order to leave no v;'.eant
spaces, it jilaces tliem wiih sirIi skill that the
projecting angles of one root are fitted to the
hollows of anolher.

In the rainy season, when tl;e p:uanquc ciu no
longer seek its food in t!ic iicUs, it has recourse
to lis \ iuter hoard, aadb.^gijis wif'h tiic roots de-
prsiled in the fui best eel !.% as beiiig the oldest^
and in this marmcr regulaih/ proceeds from one
to ihc. oth.M'. li^N burr ;vv is aiv/- vs v i\ neat, and
it is ca e 'ul (o cany out of it a-i .be fragments of
the roois wh-.ch it has eaten. Tiu fcir.ale brce;ls

250

twice a year, in the spring and in tlie autumn,
T..a has six young at a litter. In the winter the
male and female^ with the young of the last
breed, inhabit the same burrow, those of the
first being old enough to provide for themselves.
The provisions laid ip in their magazines are
more than suificient for the subsistence of this
little family, as every spring a number of the
old roots are found at the mouths of their holes,
which have been brouaht out to make room for

o

new. The country people are very fond of these
roots, and eagerly search for the burrows, which
they plunder and destroy without regard to the
fate of their innocent inhabitants.

The cliiiicliilla (mus laoiger) is another
species of ground-mouse or rat. Instead of hair
it is covered with an extremely fine and soft ash-
coloured wool, of asufficieiitlength for spinning.
This animal is about six inches long ; it has very
small ears, a short nose, teeth like those of the
common n)Ouse, and a tail of a moderate length,
covered \.it\i silky hair. It lives in the fields,
under ground, in large companies, and is princi-
pally found in the southern provinces ; its usual
food is the bulbous roots with which that part of
the country abounds. The female breeds twice a
year, and has five or six young at each birth, ii
is an extremely gentle and mild animal, and may
be handled without the least danger of its biting,
nor will it attempt to escape, but on the contrary

251

appears to be pleased with being caressed. It is
verj neat, has no offensive smell, and maj be
kept, with very little inconvenience;, in a house,
and the trifling expense attending its keeping will
be amply repaid by its beautiful wool. The an-
cirjit Pcnu'ia IS empl )ved this wool in the manur
facture of several kinds of cloth^, to which thej
attached great value.

The great \ ood-mouse (raus Maulinus) is an
animal of more than twice tV^ sizeof a marmot,
and was ^*ist discovered in i i64:, in a wood, iv\
the piovince of Alaiile, and so vigorous was thq
defence that it made, that the dogs who attacked
it had much difficulty in overcoming it. Its hair
is of the same colour as that of the marmot, but
its ears are more pointed, the nose is longer, the
whiskers are disposed in four rows, it has four
toes on each foof, and it has a longer tail, and
closer covered with hair. The number and order
of the teeth are the same as those of the common
mouse.

The dcgu (sciurus degus) is a species of dor-
rnouse, a little larger than the house-rat. Its
colour is a dirty white, except a blackish line
upon the shoulders, which reaches to the first
joint of the leg; the tail is terminated by a little
tuft of hair of thesame colour as the body. The
liead is short, the cars round, the nose sharp, and
furnished with whiskers ; of the upper jaw the
two incisors are cuneiforn^i, those of the lower
4

252

flat ; the fore (ect have four toef?, ihc hinder
five. The deg'u is a social animal^ and is found
in the viciiii'y of St. Jago^ in numerous compa-
nies, near the hedges or bushes, where they d'u^
burrows that have a communication with each
other, and feed upon roots and fruit, of which
thej lay in an ample store for the winter. It
does not, like the dormouse and the badger, sleep
during the winter, vvliich is probably in a great
measure owing to the mildness of the climate.
These animals were formerly eaten by the inha-
bitants, but at present they make no use of them
whatever.

The covur, known to naturalists by the name
of tatoii, and by the Spaniards called the arma-
dillo, from the upper part of its body being co-
vered with a kind of bony armour, is very com-
mon in Cujo, where it is called quiriquinchu. It
is of various sizes, being from six to thirteen
inches lor^g, a magnitude, however, much infe-
rior to v/hat it attains iu (he tropical regions. In
its cxtfMT.al appcaran'e, its fatness, and the
bristles which cover the lower part of the body,
the cov:;r r( scmblcs the guinea-pig. Its licad is
long, hut the nnso is short ; it has no tccih except
grii.d; is ; the eyes are smal!, tlic ears naked, and
tlio tail is long and scaly like that of a rat. Tiie
n;-:r;bcr of the toes vary according to the species.
The bony armour which covers the body of tlio
qniciiii io coniposed of two parts, divided into

253'

several bands let into each olber, so tlial ihv ani-
mal can at its picasiire dilate or contract llieni.
The fcnuales are very prolific ; iljcy have four
yonng at a birth^, and breed every uionih. The
ilesli is delicate, and much preferable to that of
the g'uinea-pio-,

in the valleys of the Andes arc found four spe-
cies of this animal :

The inclil, or four banded covur, which is
about six inches in length.

The hairy, or the eight banded, which is
seven inches long, and covered with hair as well
above as below.

The miitiUos, or the eleven banded, which is
very little larger than the preceding, but its ears
are much longer.

The tolas, or the eighteen banded, which is
the largest, and is thirteen inches in length from
the nose to the root of the tail.

These four species belong to the qidriquinci oi
Buffon, a name which has been given them from
their possessing the property of contracting and
rolling themselves up like a ball. Vv hen they
are hard pressed by the hunters, tliey frequently
C{)ntract and roll themselves down a precipice,
like the hedge-hog, and usually escape without
injury, being protected by their coat of mail.
But they have not the san.e means of escape
V Leu they are found in tl.e phiias ; they are

c

254

then easily takeOj and when they roll them-
selves up are compelled to resume their natural
form by means of fire. The three first kinds run
very fast in a straight line^, being prevented by
the conformation of their armour from making
turns. When they get at a certain distance from
their pursuers^, they endeavour to dig a hole in
the ground to conceal themselves^ and hold so
fast with their fore paws that it is almost impos-
sible to force them away ; upon these occasions
the hunters have contrived a singular expedient
to make them quit their hold^ by introducing the
point of a small stick into the anus.

The cuij (lepus minimus) is a species of small
rabbitj which has been by some confounded with
the guinea-pigj though it is not only distin-
guished from that animal by its form, but by its
generic character. It is a little larger than the
field-mouse, and its shape is nearly conical. The
ears are small, pointed and hairy, the nose is
long, and the teeth are precisely like those of the
hare and the rabbit; its fore paws have four toes,
and the hinder five, and the tail is so short that it
can scarcely be seen. This animal has been do-
mesticated in Chili, and is of various colours,
white, brown, grey, and spotted. Its hair is very
fine and silky, but too short for spinning; the
flesh is very white, and delicately tasted. The
female breeds cverv month, and has from six to

255

eight young. The cuy, though it resemble the
rabbity avoids its society;, and never copulates
with it. It is very much afraid of cats and rats,,
which appear to be its destroyers. In Peru there
is an animal which bears the same name, and is
also domesticated, but as I have never seen it, I
cannot determine whether it is of the same spe-
cies or otherwise. It may be proper, however,
to observe, that ciiij is a general name in America
for a number of little animals like rabbits, which
are mostly of the genus of the cavy.

The viscaclia (lepus viscacia) is an animal re-
sembling both the rabbit and the fox. It is rather
larger, but has the head, ears, mouth, whiskers,
teeth, feet, and nearly the same manner of feed-
ing as the rabbit. In its colour and tail it re-
sembles the fox ; the hair on the body is very fine
and soft, and is capable of being advantageously
employed for many purposes. The ancient Pe-
ruvians made beautiful cloths of it, and it is now
used in Chili for the manufacture of hats. The
tail, with which \i deft;nds itself against its ene-
mies, is very long, turned up, and covered with
long coarse hair. The z-rscacJia breeds in the
same manner as the rabbit. It lives w dcr ground,
in a burrow consisting t)t two stories, which
conimuuicale by moans of a vvii;tiii}g siair-way;
the first storv serves frr a ma aziiie for its pro-
visions, <he other for a place vi rcfidviscc for it-
self and ils yoLii:^:. I:i Ihi^; it rc]:i:ui;£ diirhijr the

dii) J and oiily goes out at night, when \i lirings
to its hole whatever it nicots with, even such or-
tielcs of wearing' apparei as have heen dropped
by travellers. Its Cesh is very white and tctider,
and is preferred to that of the hare or ^A\<i
rabbit.

Of the horny-fnotcd animals, or those that
have hoofs, whether single or divided. Chili fur-
nishes but five species that are indigenous. The
j)uda, the vicugna, the chflihueque, the guanaco,
and the gucnnd or liucund.

The puda (capra pnda) is a species of wild
goat, with brown hair, of the size of a six
months kid; the male is furnished with very
very small horns, but the female is destitute.
The Spaniards call it the roe-buck, but very im-
properly, as it has no resemblance to that animal,
but every characteristic of the goat, except the
beard, and in having its horns round, smoofi],
and diverging. On the approach of wii'icr,
these animals, in very numerous flocks, cyme
down from the Andes, in order to kid ii} the
plains of the southern provinces. Great numbers
are then killed by the inhabKants for food, and
caught for the purpose of dornestirating them,
which is easily done, as this animal is extremely
mild, and is much dcligli'ed in playing with
children.

Ihc I'iciigna, the clriliJuicque, and the guanaco,
may be considered as so many inferior species of

o

257

the camelj to which may be added the alpaca and
tiie llama of Peru. All these animals have a
great reseiublance to the camel^ although they
are smaller^ and their forms are more elegant and
better turned ; like the camel they have a small
head without horns^ a very long neck^ middle-
sized cars, large and round eyes, a short muzzle,
the upper lip more or less cleft, llic legs longer
than the size of the body appears to require, the
feet divided, tlje tail short, and the hair long,
and of a sufticient fineness for spinning. Their
genital parts are similar to those of the camel;,
and the males, in like manner, void their urine
backwards. In their internal conformation thev
difier but little from the camel, and, like all ru-
minating animals, have four stomachs ; the
second of which contains, between the two mem-
branes that compose it, a great number of ca-
vities which appear to be intended solely for re-
servoirs of water.

These American camels resemble those of the
old continent also in their dispositions and their
mode of living ; like them, they are extremely
docile, and generally very mild. The alpaca and
the llama are employed, like the camel, to carry
burdens, and possess the following properties in
common with tliat animal : they kneel in order to
receive or discharoe their loads ; their hoofs are
so firm as not to require jliocing, and their skin?
so thick as to render a pack 5c.ddle unnecessary.

VOL, I s

258

and their step is slow, but sure even in the steepest
mountains. The chiiihueque was formerlj em-
ployed by the Chilians, as the paco is by the Pe-
ruvians ; but the introduction of the use of
mules, which have now become very numerous,
has entirely superseded that of the chiiihueque.
All these animals pass a great part of the night in
ruminating ; and whenever they wish to sleep,
fold their legs under their belly, and support
themselves upon the breast.

Though these quadrupeds are analogous tc
the camel, they have likewise some peculiar cha-
racteristics which distinguish them from that
animal. Destined by nature to live among ice
and snow, their bodies are covered with a thick
fat between the skin and the flesh, like almost
all polar animals ; like them too they abound in
blood, which is the more necessary to them, as
they require a greater degree of warmth than
those animals which inhabit the plains : the fat
preventing the evaporation of the heat, and
thereby keeping up that temperature of the blood
without which they would not be able to endure
the severity of the cold. The lower jaw, like
that of the camel, is furnished with six incisors,
two canine teeth, and several grinders; but the
upper is wholly destitute of incisors and canine
teeth ; a character which appears to me suffi-
cieritly marked to constitute a separate genus.
Besides this distinction, their ears are smaller

259

and more elegant than those of the camel ; the
nose issmoothjtheneck straighter and better pro-
portioncd;, the back more levels except the gua-
naco's^ which is a little arched, the tail hand-
somer;, and supplied with agreater qnantitjof hair^
the legs are better shaped and fitted for running,
and the hair on their bodies is longer, softer, and
more like wool. Placed by the side of one of
these animq.ls, the camel would appear like a
monster. Their natural cry resembles the neigh-
ing of a horse. To defend themselves they em-
ploy their saliva, which they throw upon those
who molest them. It is asserted, but it appears
to be without foundation, tliat this saliva is
naturally caustic, and produces blisters upon the
skin.

They are in heat in the latter part of summer,
during which time they become vcrv thin, and
shed their hair. Before copulation thev make
much noise, throw out their saliva, and appear to
be mad. The female has two dugs, which are
always well filled with milk ; her period of gesta-
tion is five or six months, and she produces hut one
young at a birth. These three kinds of animals
mutually avoid each other, nor have they ever
been known to copulate. To what ;;t;c they live
I am unable precisely to determine, though I
believe them shorter lived than tlvj camel ; the
period generally assigned them by the Chilians is
thirty years-

s2

260

I consider these animals as intermediate spe-
cies which unite the goat, sheep, stag, and the
camel ; and from the following descriptions it
will he seen that my opinion is not unfounded.

The vicugna (camellus vicuna) is, according
to M. Buffon, only the paco in its original state
of liberty ; hut in this, as well as in many other
particulars which concern America, that great
naturalist has been misinformed. The paco, or
the alpaco, and the vicugna are two animals of
the same genus, but of very different species.
It is certain that they never copulate, although
they live upon the same mountains, and the w ild
paco, as well as the tame, is very common in Peru.
The vicugna is nearly the size of the tame goat ;
it resembles it particularly in the shape of its
back, rump, and tail, but differs from it in having
a much longer neck, which is frequently twenty
inches in length, in its head which is round and
without horns, in its ears which are small and
-fctraight, in its muzzle which is short and without
a beard, and in its legs which are twice the
height of those of the goat. It is covered with
a very fine wool of the colour of dried roses,
which will take any dye, and is used in the coun-
try in the manufacture of a variety of cloths.
This wool is kno v,n in Europe, and very highly
valued. The paco is most robust and of or
thicker make than the vicugna; its muzzle is
longer, and its wool is also longer and not so

Sol

fine. The Peruvians keep numerous flocks of
p&coS;, Nvliose wool they employ in the manufac-
ture of several kinds of cloth^ which have the
hrilliancv of silk. But the paco is not found in
Chili either in a domestic or savage state.

The vicugnas appear to be more particularly
attached to that part of the Andes which apper-
tains to the provinces of Copiapo and Coquimbo,
where they are found in the greatest numbers,
and inhabit the highest and more inaccessible
ridges of mountains perpetually covered with
ice and snow. This cold climate " seems to be
best adapted to their nature^ for all those which
the inhabitants have attempted to raise in the
plains have been attacked by a species of mange^
which has soon destroyed them ; and it is most
probable owing to this cause that the methods
which have been hitherto used to transport this
animal to Europe have failed of success. The
vicugnas are always in flocks, and, lijce the goats,
are seen feeding on the tops of rocks. As soon
as they perceive a man they run offj taking their
young with them. The hunters, when they go
in pursuit of them, endeavour to surround the
mountains upon which they are found, and by
pressing them closer and closer, they at length
collect the whole within a small compass, wh^n
the}' encircle the spot with a rope, to which they
tie a great number of pieces of cloth. The vi-
cugnas, who are very timid, dare not pass this

s3

262

cord, and easily fall into the hands of their pur-
suerSj who usually kill the whole of them. As
the wool of these animals is the chief induce-
ment for hunting them;, instead of killing, it
would, perhaps, be more prudent merely to shear
them, an operation which might be repeatedly
performed. Their numbers, however, notwith-
standing these massacres, do not appear to be
diminished, which induces me to believe that
they have more young at a birth than is generally
supposed. The inhabitants have never yet been
able to domesticate this useful animal, but I do
not doubt it will be eflfected, when the national
industry, which is beginning to exert itself, at-
tains a greater degree of activity. The vicugna
is excellent game, and its flesh is preferred to
veal ; it is used as a specific in cases of the
ophthalmy, by external application. The be-
zoar which is found in its stomach is in high re-
pute with those persons who have confidence in
such things.

The cMliliueque (camellus Araucanus) was
originally called hueque, but the Araucanians,
with whom this animal lived in a domestic state, in
order to distinguish it from the European sheep,
which has become very common since the arrival of
the Spaniards, gave it the name of chilihueque,
or rehueque ; which signifies the sheep of Chili.
This name is well applied to it ; for, excepting the
length of its neck and legs, it has considerable
resemblance to the sheep. The head of the chi-

263

lihueque is very much like that of the sheep ; its
ears are also oval and flaccid, the eyes large and
black, the nose long and bunched, the lips thick
and hanging, the tail of a similar form, but
shorter, and the whole ])odv covered with a very
long and soft wool. The length of the chilihue-
que, from the upper lip to the root of the tail, is
about six feet ; and its height, measured from
behind, is nearly four feet. The individuals of
this species vary in colour ; there are some of
them which are white, others brown, black, and
grey.

The ancient Chilians made use of these ani-
mals as beasts of burden, and were accustomed
to lead them by a rope fastened to a hole made in
the rim of the ear, from whence has arisen the
errors of several geographical v/riters, who have
asserted, that the sheep which had been carried
to Chili had so far increased in size, that they
w^ere loaded and employed as mules in the trans-
portation of merchandize. Some writers pret nd
that, before the arrival of the Spaniards, th3
Chilians employed the hueqne in the cnltivatioa
of their lands, and for drawing a kind of cart
which they called quetahue. This agrees with
the account of Admiral Spilsberg, who says that
the inhabitants of Mocha made use of them when
he landed there. The chilihueques are highly
valued by the Araucanians ; who, though they
are fond of their flesh, never kill them except
upon festivals, or on some solemn sacrifice.

s4

264 '

Before the conquest they employed the wool of
this animal to make their clothes ; but since sheep
have multiplied so much^ they make use of the
wool of the chilihueque only for the most valu-
able cloth.

What M. de Buffon and the celebrated Lin-
n^us have said respecting the paco and the vi-
cugna being of the same species^ they have like-
wise asserted of the guanaco and the llama.
Both these naturalists have taken the llama for
the domesticated guanaco, but I have good rea-
sons for being of a different opinion. Besides
the natural aversion which subsists between these
two animals, and which prevents them from
ever mingling, they also offer some very striking
differences which can never be attributed to the
change of situation alone. The llama has a straight
back, all its legs nearly of an equal length,
and an excrescence on the breast which is almost
always moistened with a yellowish oily exudation.
The guanaco, on the contrary, has a bunched or
rather an arched back ; the hind feet are so long
that when it is pursued it never attempts to ascend
the mountains, like the llama, the paco, and
the ricugna, but descends them, leaping, like the
buck and the deer ; a course well suited to the
peculiar conformation of its legs.

The guanaco (camellushuanacus) exceeds the
chilihueque in size ; and I have seen some of
them that were the height of ahorse. Its usual
length, however, from the nose to the tail, is

2G5

about seven feet, and (lie height, measured before,
four feet and three inches. The body is covered
with very long liair, of a reddish colour upon the
back, and whitish under the belly ; its head is
round, the nosepointed andblack, the ears straight
like those of a horse, the tail short, and turned
back like that of the stag. The name giianaco,
by which it is commonly known, is Peruvian ;
it is called luan in Chili. The guanaco appears
to be less attached to a cold climate than the vi-
cugna. In the beginning of winter these ani-
mals quit the mountains they inhabit during the
summer, and appear in the valleys in large herds,
usually of a hundred or two hundred. The
Chilians hunt them with dogs, but they commonly
take only the youngest, which are the least swift;
the old ones run with astonishing rapidity, and it
is difficult to overtake them with a good horse.
When they are pursued, they turn from time to
time to look at the huntsman, neighing as loud as
they can, and then set off anew with incre-ased
velocity. It sometimes happens that the Indians,
who are mounted upon very swift horses, take
them alive, by means of a noose or sling, which
they throw from a distance between their leo-s.
This noose, which the Indians call /«g2//, is made
of a strip of leather, about five or six feet long;
to each end of which is fastened a stone of
about two pounds weight. The huntsman, who
is on horseback, holds one of these stones in hi<
hand, and whirls the other around like a slina;.

266

as swift as possible, in order to hurl it with
more force, when he throws it at the animal he
has singled out, whom be is almost certain of
striking, frequently at more than three hundred
paces distance. In order to take the animal
alive, the sling must be thrown so dexterously,
as only to twist itself around the feet. The sua-
naco is naturally gentle, and readily becomes ac-
customed to a domestic state ; it can be tamed
to such a degree as to follow its master where-
ever he wishes. The meat, especially when the
animal is young, is excellent, and as good as veal;
that of the old ones is tougher, but is very good
when salted ; it keeps well on long voyages^ and
is often put up for the use of seamen. Very
good hats are made from the hair, and it may be
used in the manufacture of camlet.

The giiemul, or huemul (equusbisulcus) is an
animal which I have classed with the horse^ al-
though it ought to form a separate genus, in
consequence of its hoofs being divided like those
of ruminating animals. Its teeth, and the
manner in which they are disposed, are precisely
like those of the horse ; but its size, hair, and
colour give it a greater resemblance to the ass,
w ith which it might readily be confounded, were
it not for the ears, which are short, straight, and
pointed like those of the horse. It also wants
the black stripe upon the back which is peculiar
to that species. The huemul is farther distin-

267

guisbed from the ass by a handsomer head^ and
a more elegant appearance ; the neck and bnt-
tocks are also better formed. A ^reat difference
likewise prevails in its internal conformation, and
its voice is more like the neighing- of a horse,
tJian (he brajing of an ass. This animal is more
unruly than the vicugna, and far exceeds it in
swiftness ; it inhabits the most inaccessible parts
of tlie Andes, which is the reason of its being
so dilncult to be taken. It is the same animal
which Captain Wallis found at the Straits of
Magellan, and, in my opinion, forms the link be-
tween the ruminating and single-hoofed animals.

Horses, asses, cattle, sheep, goats, many kinds
of dogs, cats, and even mice, have been brought
hither by the Spaniards. All these animals have
multiplied exceedingly, and have increased in
size, as might be expected from so favourable a
climate. The horses of Chili possess all the good
qualities of their species: they have spirit,
vigour, and swiftness. Those which are bred in
the plains resemble the Arabian horses; they are
of a middle size, but remarkably active. The
mountain horses are stronger and closer set, and
are very good for the harness ; they have, in ge-
neral, an elegant appearance, a small and hand-
some head, the tail well furnished with hair, and
a little raised, the chest broad, and well turned,
the thighs round and plump, the legs slender and
nervous, and the hoof so hard as not to require

268

to be shod, except in cities. The great number
of horsesj and their cheapness, is the reason why
they are worse treated in Chili than almost any
country in the world. A common horse will cost
a, felippo (about four shillings sterling) a mare
about five Roman paolis, or about two shillings
sterling. They are fed entirely upon grass, and are
kept in the field throughout the year. It is very
uncommon to see a peasant walk half a league ;
the moment he rises he goes and saddles one of his
horses, and uses him the whole day, wthout al-
lowing him any time to rest or to feed. To this
may be added the long journejs of a hundred
leagues and more, which these people make with
the * same horse, during the whole of which the
horse is only permitted to rest at night.

Horses capable of enduring such hardships,
must be naturally of a firm and strong constitu-
tion; but it is perhaps, in a great measure,
owing to their being early accustomed to severe
fatigue, and the nature of their food, as I have
seen those which were very old, and had been in
constant service. The horses, in consequence of
their different gaits, are divided into three breeds,
the most common of which are the trotters. The
horses of this breed, as the most robust and vi-

* In Paraguay and Tucuman they are more humane. Led
hordes are always taken there for a journey. — E. E.

Bolrixhoff'es.

^60

gorousj arc principally used by the counfrj
people. The second are the pacers^ who are more
easy gaited than the best Andelusian horses. It
is said that this step is peculiar to this breed, and
that it is observable even in the colts ; it is the
best supported;, and the quickest upon a long
journey^, for which reason this breed is intimae
request than either of the others. The parade
horses constitute the third breed ; these never go
out of a foot pacC;, move with much grace, and
are particularly in demand in Peru^, where they
arc employed on occasions of parade and cere-
mony ; the price of them is from one hundred to
five hundred crowns.

The Chilians are very careful to preserve the
breed of their horses pure, and notsuifer any in-
termixture. During the winter almost all the
horses are kept at pasture in the valleys of the
Andes, from whence they return in the spring
very fat and vigorous. When the inhabitants
train their colts, which is commonly done at three
years of age^ they begin by scoring the upper
muscle of the tail, to prevent the motion of it,
which operation they call casUgc.

The asses of Chili are so strong and tall, that
it is difficult to recognize in thera tlie original
stock. I scarcely know to v/hat circumstance to
attribute this favourable alteration, unless it may
be the state of liberty in which these animals
live, for they are made but very little use of; in

270

the valleys of the Andes they are even found in a
wild state, and are hunted by the Chilians for
the sake of their skins ; among these are some
that have hair sufficiently long to be spun with
ease. The mules are an excellent breed ; they
are very strong, and are particularly distin-
guished for being very sure footed and active.

The horned cattle, upon which the influence
of climate appears to be greater than on others,
have in Chili, owing to its favourable tempera-
ture, acquired a larger size, while their flesh has
become better, and more nutritive. The oxen of
the maritime are, however, of an inferior size to
those of the middle^provinces, nor can these last
be compared to those which are bred in the
valleys of the Andes. These cattle are kept the
whole year in the open field, and their food^
which never fails them, consists entirely of the
difl'erent kinds of herbs and grasses which follow
each other in succession. The species, far from
exhibiting any degeneracy, has improved consi-
derably ; and though I have observed that the
cattle of the maritime provinces are small, it is
only in relation to the others, for I have seen
some of them which weio;hed near two thousand
pounds.

There are some landholders in Chili, whose
farms arc sufficient to keep twelve thousand head
of cattle. At the end of each winter they usually
select a thousaod head, either cows or oxen, in

271

order to fatten them ; for this purpose, they drive
them to the richest pastures^ where they usually
keep them till about Christmas, when they kill
tliem. Tiiis slaughter, which is always a great
festival for the peasants, is expected with the
utmost impatience, and they conduct it as fol-
lows : — The herdsmen drive twenty or thirty of
these fat cattle into an enclosure made with
stakes, which is always erected upon a plain;
the peasants, well mounted, surround the en-
closure, and when they have taken their stations,
one of the cattle is let out. As soon as the beast
finds himself at liberty he takes flight, and all
the company pursue him, each endeavouring
adroitly to hamstring him with a sharp iron,
shaped like a crescent, attached to the end of a
lance. Whenever a beast falls, the butchers im-
mediately dispatch him, by thrusting a kind of
long knife into the nape of his neck. When all
the beasts are killed, they are dragged to one
spot, where they are flayed, and the tallow
separated from the beef. This last they usually
cut up into long narrow strips, salt it a little,
and dry it in the sun. A very considerable com-
merce is carried on in this beef, especially with
Peru and the mines. It keeps very well ; and, as
it is not strongly salted, is preferred to the salt
provisions received from Holland and England.
The tallow is mostly exported to Peru, very
little being used ia the country ; it is the same

273

■with the hides, the greater part of which are sold
to strangers. The milk is of the best and riches
quality^ and the inhabitants make excellent
cheese from it, which is no way inferior to the
best of Lodi, Of the cheese, that of Chanco, in
the province of Maiile, is the most celebrated.
The cattle are not employed in labour till three
years old, and never more than two are tackled
to a plough, even in breaking up new grounds.
Instead of a yoke being suspended to their necks,
a rope, agreeably to the Spanish custom, is run
through their horns, by which they draw the
plough. The common price of cattle through-
out the country is from three to four filippi
(twelve or sixteen shillings sterling); but in the
sea-ports the price is fixed, by an ancient regula-
tion, at ten crowns, of which the commandant of
the port recHves four, and the owner six.

The sheep imported from Spain have lost no-
thing in Chili; they are of the same size, and
their wool is as beautiful as that of the best
Spanish sheep. Each sheep yields annually from
ten to fifteen pounds of wool ; the mutton, espe-
cially that of the wethers, is very fine. They
generally breed twice a year, as is common in
temperate climates, and frequently have two at a
birth. Thie sheep have no horns, but rams are
frequently seen which have four and even six
horns. The owners leave them the whole year
in the open fields^ without any shelter, and only

273

shut them up in a kind of pen to secure them
from the wild beasts. Those which are bred ia
the Andes are larger, and produce a longer and
finer wool. The Pehuenches, a nation which in-
habits a part of these mountains, have crossed
the breed of the sheep with the goat, and this
mixed breed is much larger than the other
sheep ; their hair, v/hicli is more or less curled^
has the firmness and softness of wool, and is fre-
quently two feet long ; it resembles much the hair
of the Angora goat.

The goats have also multiplied astonishingly ;
thej live almost always in the mountains ; their
skins are employed for manufacturing morocco ;
of this much is consumed in the country, and
great quantities are sent to Peru.

' Man in Chili enjoys all the advantages whicli
result from a mild unchangeable climate, and
those persons who do not shorten their lives by
irregularities, attain to a very * advanced age.
Notwithstanding what M. de Pauw has asserted,
I have myself known several old men of a hun-
dred and four, a hundred and five, and one in-
stance even of a hundred and fifteen years of age.

* It appears beyoad a doubt, from the concurrent testimony
of all writers who have lived in Soutli America, that the
jiatives live to a hundred more frequently than Euiopeans to
fourscore. The fruit hangs there upon the tree till it drops ;—
every where iu the Old World the rude climate shakes i*
down. — E, E,

VOL. I. X

274

It is but a few years since that Don Antonio Boza
died there at the age of one hundred and six. My
grandfather and my great grandfather, both Cre-
oles, lived, the first to the age of ninety-five, the
other to ninety-six. These instances are not un-
common among the natives of the, country. The
women are generally prolific and there are few
countries where they more frequently give birth
to twins. This fecundity, and the abolition of
some practices which were injurious to the pro-
pagation of the human species, will explain the
rapid increase of population, which has taken
place within the last thirty years.

The inhabitants of Chili are either aboriginal,
or the descendants of Europeans or Africans.
Those descended from Europeans are well
shaped, particularly the women, some of whom
are very beautiful./ The aborigines form but
one nation, divided into many tribes, all of whom
speak the same language, which they call^hili-
duga, or the Chilian tongue This language is
soft, harmonious, expressive, and regular^ and
possesses a great number of words^ not only ex-
pressive of natural objects, but also of moral and
metaphysical ideas. The colour of the natives is
a reddish or coppery brown, excepting the Bo-
roanes, who live in the midst of the Araucanian
provinces, in the thirty-ninth degree of latitude ;
these are white, and as well featured as the
northern Europeans. Nothing appears to me to be
more ridiculous than the assertion of several an-

thors, tliat all tlie Americans resemble each oilier,
uiid that from soehig one you are able to judge of
the whole. These ji^cntlenien sceuitoliavc been
led into this error bv a very sli<^ht resemblance,
arising; from their colour. It is only necessary
to src diiTcrcnt individuals to be convinced of the
contrary. A Chilian is as easily distinguishable
from a Peruvian as an Italian from a German. I
have seen natives of Cujo^ of Paraguay^ and of
the Straits of Magellan, and I can confidently
affirm, that their countenances present a very
striking ditference. The Chilians, like tiie Tar-
tars, have but little beard, and the custom whicli
they have of plucking out the hair as fast as it
grows, makes them appear as if beardless ; for
this purpose they always carry with them a small
pair of pincers, which forms a part of their
toilette. There are some of them, however, who
have as thick a beard as the Spani?rds. The
hair which marks the age of puberty they have
in still greater quantities than the beard. The
opinion that a thin beard is the mark of a feeble
body, is not verified in the case of these people.
The Indians are generally vigorous, and are
better able to endure fatigue than the Creoles, for
which reason they are always preferred in those
employments that require strength.

Those who inhabit the plains are of the same
height as ihe Europeans ; but the natives of the
mountains are distinguished by a taller stature;

r '?

276

and I am well convinced (hat these are the
famous PatagonianS;, of whom so much has heen
said. Lord Anson is of the same opinion, and
the descriptions given hv Byron, Wallis, Carteret,
Bougainville, Du CIos, and De la Giraudais, of
these pretended giants, agree perfectly well with
the appearance of the mountaineers of Chili.
What confirms me in my opinion is, that their
language, from the specimens of it which those
navigators have given, is the Chilian. I have
elsewhere showed that the Chiiiaii language doeb
not extend beyond the limits mentioned in the
commencement of this work ; besides which, the
Patagonian contains a great number of Spanish
words, which proves fully a communication be-
tween the two nations. The usual height of
these inhabitants of the mountains is five feet
seven inches ; the tallest that I have seen did not
exceed six feet three inches ; but what makes
them appear much larger is the enormous size of
their limbs, which do not appear to be adapted
to their height, except the hands and feet, which,
in proportion to the rest, aie very small. The
tout enscmhlc of their countenances is not bad ;
they have usually a round face, a nose rather
large, very sprightly eyes, remarkably white
teeth, black and coarse hair, and some of them
wear whiskers. They have generally a browner
complexion than the other Chilians, from their
being constantly in the open air.

The dress of those who live in the western val-
leys of the Andes, consists of various kinds of
woollen cloth ; but those who inhabit the eastern,
or the true Patagonians, cover themselves with
the skins of guanacos and other wild animals.
Some of them wear the poncho of the Arauca-
nianSj which is a kind of cloakj of an oblong
form,, with a hole in the middle to put the head
through. The Pehuelques, who occupy the
southern Andes^, wear a leathern hat, decorated
with feathers ; they paint their bodies and faces
of various colours, particularly their eyelids.
The women, who are all of a lofty stature, dress
much like the men, except that, instead of
breeches, they wear a small apron.

All these people live under tents made of skins,
which they easily transport from one place to
another, whither they remove for the conveni-
ence of pasturage. They are divided into several
tribe«, each of which has its particular chief, to
whom thev give the name of L Iman ; like the
other Chilians, Ihcy are idolaters. Their lan-
guage is every where the same, except that the
eastern tribes have rather a guttural pronuncia-
tion. These people are almost constantly during
the day on horsieback ; their saddles are made
like the pack-saddles of our asscs, the bridle is
a leather string, the bit, stirrups, and spurs, are
of wood, but u'^twithstanding the rudejiess of
this equipage, they are good horsemen, and al-

t3

278

most always ride upon the full gallop^ followeci
by a great number of dogs, who are trained to
hold the horse by the bits when the rider alighfs^
The eastern Chilians have no horses that exceed
the middle size^, probably from their riding them
when very young, and allov^^ing thuui too little
rest. Although they are not in want of cattle
for food, they prefer game to any thing else ; and
they are almost always to be seen in chase of the
guanaco or the ostrich, in the vast plains that
extend from the month of the Plata to the eastern
part of the Straits of Magellan. The weapon
which they employ in hunting and in war, is the
laqui, of which I have already spoken. It v, as
with this that they killed forty Spaniards, in a
skirmish at Saint Luis delia Punta, in 1767.
Tr.ese mountaineers sometimes attack the ca-
ravans which pass from Buenos Ayres to Chili,
and frequently the country houses belonging to
ihc capita!.

between tlie sonlhern boundaries of Chili and
the Slrails of Mag-ollan, there are lu) nations
cxc(;pt the Pojas and the Cancans. The Pojas
are of a gigantic stature, but their language is
entirely diifeient from that of the Chilia;is, and
they never approach their territories. The
Caucaub arc of a middle stalure, aiid their lan-
guage is aho very different from the Chilians ;
these last dress themselves in garments made of
♦^.e 8k:r;.i of sea- wolves.

279

The above sketch will serve to give some
idea of the inhabitants of Chili; but in my
second part, containing the civil history of those
people, I sliall treat more fully of their manners
and customs, as well ae of their military expe-
ditions.

1 +

A METHODICAL TABLE

OF THE

VARIOUS SPECIES OF NATURAL PRODUCTIONS
DESCRIBED IN THIS WORK,

ARRANGED IN THE MANNER OF UNN^LS.

REGNUM ANIMALE.

MAMMALIA.

jBrUTA, — Dasipus quadricinctus cingulis quatuor, pedibus

pentadactylis.
Dasipus octocinctus cingulis octo, palmis tetradactylls, plautis

pentadactylis.
Da'jJpus undtcimcinclus cingulis undecim, palmis tetradactylis,

plantis pentadactylis.
Dasipus octodecimcinctus cingulis diioiie\iginli, palmis tctra-

dactylis, plantis peutadactylii.

Ferae. — Phoca Lupina capite subauiiculato, palmis tetra-

dactylis.
Phoca Porcina capite aiaiculato, roslro tiuncato prouiiuenfe.
riioca Elephantina capite anlice cristalo.
Phoca Lcanina capite postice jubato.
Canis Culpceus cauda recta olongata, apice coacoloie laevi.
Felis i^uwa Cauda elongata, coipoie ciuereo subtus albitante.
Felis Guigna cauda elongata, coipore maculis omnibus orbi-

culatis.
Ftjli» Colocula cauda elongata, cor^iorc aibo iii..cuiis irreg.

atri-i, stavisfpie.
Vivcrra Chinga atro cacrulea, niacuu:^ quinquc dorsualihus ro-

tuadis aibis.

3

282

Mustela Felina plantis pahnatis pilosis, cauda tereti elongata.
Mustela Cuja pedibus fibsis, corpore airo labio superiore sub-

truncato.
Mustela Quiqui pedibus fissis, corpore fusco, rostro cunei-

funni.

Glires. — Lepus Fiscacia cauda elongata setosa.

Lepus Minimus cauda brevissima, auriculis pilosis conco-
loribus.

Castor Huidolrius cauda longa compresso-lanceolata, palmis
lobatis, plantis palmatls.

Mus Cyanus cauda mediocri subpilosa, palmis 4-dactylis,
plantis 5-dactjlis, corpore ceruleo subtus albido.

Mus Laniger cauda mediocri, palmis 4-dactylis, plantis 5-dac-
tylis, corpore cinereo lanato.

Mus Maulinus cauda inediocri pilosa, auriculis acuminatis,
pedibus pentadactylis.

Mus Coypus cauda mediocri subcompressa pilosa, plantis pal-
matls.

Sciurus Degua fusco stavescens, linea humerali nigra.

Pecora. — Camelus Huanacus corpore piloso, dorse gibbo,

cauda erccta.
Caiuelus Vicugna corpore lanato, rostro sirao obtuso, cauda

erecta.
Caiiielii'j Araucanus corpore lanato, rostro supcrne curvo,

cauda pendula.
Ccipra Puda coraibus tcrttibos laevibus, divergentibus, gula

imberbi.

BelluaI':. — E.[uus Blsulcus pedibus biiulcis.

AVES.

Acc:?n !:rs. — ''/ultur Jota nigcr remigibus fusel?, roslrociue-
racco.

283

Vullur Gryphus niaximus, caruncula vertxali lougiludii;e caja-

tis, ii;ii!<i nil' 'a.
Falco Tharus cera, pedibusque luteis, corpore albo-nigies-

ceute, vert ice cristate.
Strix Cunicularia capite laevi, corpore supra fuscOj subtus

albo, peciibus tuberculatis pilosis.

PiCAE. — Psittacus Jaguilma macrourus viridis, remigibus

apice fuscib, orbiiis fulvis.
Psittacus Cyanalysios bracbiurus luteo-virens, coliari caeruleo,

uropygio rubro.
Psittacus Chorus brachyurus viridis, subtus cinereus orbltis in-

cariiatis.
Picus Lignarius pileo coccineo, corpore albo, caeruleoque vit-

tato.
Picus Pitius Cauda brevi, corpore fusco maculis ovalibus albis

L'uttato.
Trochihis Cyanocephalus rcctirostris capite remigibus, rectri-

cibusquc cacruleis, abdoiuiiie rubro.
Trociiilus Galeriius curvirostris viridi-aureus, remigibus, rcc-

triribusque ttiscis, crista purpurea.
Trochilus Jlli?nrnus rcctirostris, rectricibus laterailljus niargiiie

exteriore albis, coipoi-e viridi niteute, subtus albiro.

Anseres. — Anas Melancorypha rostro semicyh'iuhico rubro,
ciipite iiigro, corpore albo.

Anus Htjhida roatro sciiiicylindrico, cera rubra, cauda acuti-
uscuhi.

\i\\i^ Regla caruuculaconipressa froutali corpore caeruleo sub-
tus 111 -co, coliari albo.

Diomedea CiiUcnsis alls iuipennibus, pedibus couipedibus trv>
dactyl:-, d;i;;lis omnibus coiiiicxis.

DiouiC'Ica CLilensis alis iiiipcuuibus pcd.ibus couipedibus te-
tradact;, lis paiiiiati^, corpore iauUijiiioso ciiu'ico.

Polecanus Tharus cauda rotuuda, rostro serrato, gula sac-
calu.

Grallae. — Phaenicopterus Chilmsis ruher, reniigibusalbis.

Ardea Erythrocephala crista depeiideute rubra, corpore albo.

Ardea Galatea occipite subcristato, corpore lacteolo, rostro
luteo pedibus coccincis.

Ardea Cyanocephala vertice cristate caeruleo, remigibus nigris
albo marginatis.

Ardea Thula occipite cristate concolore, corpore albo.

Tantalus Pillus facie, rostro, pedibusipe fuscis, corpore albo,
remigibus rectricibusque nigris.

Parra Chilensis unguibus modicis, pedibus fuscis occipite sub-
cristato.

Otis Chilensis capite, juguloque laevi, corpore albo, vertice
rectri cibusque cinereis, remigibus priinor. nigris.

Struthio Rea, pedibus tridactvlis, digito postico rotundato
niutico.

Passeres. — Columba Melancoptera cauda cuneala, corpore

caerulescente, remigibus nigris.
S! urnus Loyca fusco, alboquemaculatus, pectore coccineo.
Turdus T hi H us &i(ir, axillis luteis, cauda cuneata.
Turdus Thenca fusco-cinereus, subtus pallido-cinercus remi-
gibus rectricibusque apice albis.
Turdu-, Cur (tens ater niteiis, rostro substriato cauda cuneata.
Fringilla Barhata lutea, alls viridibus nigro rubroque maculatis

giila barhata.
Fringilla Diuca caerulea, gula alha.
Philotoma (^en. 7201;.) rostrum conirum, rectum, scrratuni.

Isares ovatae.
1 Phitotoma Rara.

Lingua brevis obtusa.

AMPHIBIA,

Reptilia. — Raiia Arunco corpore verrucoso," pedibus pal-

maiis.
Rana Luiea covpcre verrucoso kiteo pedibus subpalniati.s.
Lacerta Palluma caudu verlJcillatalongiuscula, squarais rhoiu-

boideis.

SS5

Lacerta Aquatica Nigra, (caudivcrbera) cauda depresso-nlauitj
pinuuiilida, pediljus ijainuitis.

Nantes. — Chimoera Callurinchus rostro siibtus labro inflexo

Jaevi.
Squalus Fernctndinus pinna a;)i r.ulla, dorsalibus spinosis, cor-
pore leveti ocellato.

PISCES.
Apodes. — Stroniatfus Cuniarca dorso caeruleo,abdomine albo.

Thoracici. — Chaetodon Aureus cauda integra, spiuis dorsa-
libus 1), corpore aurt^o, tasciis 5 discoloribus distincto.
Sparus Chilensis cauda bifida, liiicis utiinque trausveisis tiiscis,

Abdomtn ALES. — Silurus Luvur pinna dorsali postica adiposa,

cirris 4, cauda lynceolata.
Esox Chilensis niaxillis aeqaalibus, linea lateral! caerulea.
Mugil Chilensis dorso uioaoplerygio.
Cypriuus Regius piiiua ani radiis 11, dorsali lougitudinali.
Cyprinus Caucus pinna ani radiis 13, corpore tnberoso argen.

teolo.
Cyprinus Male h us pinna ani radiis 8, corpore conico subcaer-

uleo.
Cyprinus lulus pinna ani radiis 10, caudee lobata;.

IXSECTA.

CoLEOPTERA. — Luc?.nus Pilmus exscutellatus ater, corpora

dcpresso, thcracL* stiiato.
Clny^oiiiela Maulica ovaia aurata, autennis caeruleis.

i-EPTDOPTERA.— Papilio Leucnthea D. alis integcrriniis ro-
tu:uu^!i^ a!!)i« concol'jrii'i:-., aiiti:!;:;is, aler;Ii:;is.

Papilio PAltucus S. alis tit'arati.-s viri.scer.t;ba:-, iutoo caeiuico
quo li.arulalir, .subtus {i.-.;\ is.

Phalaea?. Crra-'ia B. clin^'ji-j alii deflcxis flavescenlibus, i'as-
ciH nii^vi^.

Hymenc i'TERA.--Cy:)ip5 Roimarini Ciiilensis.

S83

Tij)iila Moschifera alls Incumbentibus cinereis, tborace, abdo
niiiieque flavis.

Api'ERA. — Anmea Scrnfa abdomine seniiovbiculato fusco,

uentihus laniariis iiiferioribus exsertis.
Scorpio Chilensis ^(^chmhxx^ l6' dentatis, manibns suhanculatis.
Cancer Talicuna bracliyurus tlionice orbiculato laevi inte-
ger', iini, rhclis niuricalis.
Cancer, Xaiva bracbyurus, tborace laevi lateribus tridentato,

fronte truncaUi,
Cancer Jpa-ncora bracliytirus, thorace laevi ovato utrinque

denticulafo, cauda trigona.
Cancer Sctosas lirarnvMnis, thorace hirsute obcordato tuber-

culato, rostro bifido inflexo.
Cancer Sanlolla bracliyunis, thorace aculeato arcuato subco-

riaceo, nianibus pclliculatis.
Cancer Coronafus brachyurus, thorace obovato, apophyci dor-

sali crenata.
Cancer Cementnrius macrourus, thoraci laevi cylindrico, rostro

obtuso, cheiis aculeatis.

VERMES.

MoLLUSCA.-Pyura Cgen. nov.J Corpus conicum nidulans:
Proboscides binae terminales perforatac. Oculi inter
proboscides.

7. Pyiira Chilt-ns'is.

Sepia Unguiculala corpore ecaudato, brachiis unguiculatls.

Sepia Tunicata corpore prorsus vaginanfe, cauda alata.

Sepia Hexapodia corpore caudato scgmentato.

Echinus Alhus hcmispha^rico globosus, anibulacris denis: areis
longitudinaliter verrucosis.

Echinus Niger ovatus, anibulacris quinis : areis muricatis ver-
rucosis.

Test ACE A. — Lepas Psittacus testa postice adunca, sexvalvi,
rujrosa.

287

Pliolas ChiJoens'is lesta oblonga deprcssiuscula, stiiis longiti;-

dinalihus dibtantibus.
Solon Mncha testa ovali obloiiga antice triiiicata, cardhie al-

tero hidenfato.
Cliama T/iara suhrotuiida Inngitiuliiiaiiter striata, ano retiiso.
Mytilus Ater testa sulcata posti^e squamosa.
Miirex Locus testa ecaudata obovata antice nodosa, apertura

edentula suborbiculata.
Helix Serpentina lestix subcarinata imperforata conica, longi-

tiidinaliter striata, apeitiira patuloniarginala.

REGNUM VEGETABILE.

DIANDRIA.

MONOGYNIA. — Rosmarinus Chilensis foliis petiolatis.
Mayteiius (gen. nov.J Cor. 1 petela cainpuuulata, Cal. ]-

pliyllus. Caps. 1 spernia.
1 Maytenus Boaria.

TRIANDRIA.
MoNOGYNi A. — Sc'npus Ellychniarius culmo tcreti nudo, spicis
globosis quaternis.

Dyginia. — Aruiido Rugi calyc. trifloris, foliis subulatis

glabris,
Arundo Quila calyc. trifloris, foliis cnsiformibus serratis.
Arundo f^aldiviana calyc. trifloris, foliis subulatis pubes-

centibus.

TETRANDRIA.
MoNOGYNlA.— Rubia Chilensis foiiis an;i;!is, caule subro-

timdo laevi.
Cornus Chilensis arborea, cjmis nudis, foliis cordatis den-

tatis.

PENTANDRIA.

MoNOGYN'iA.—Nicotiana Minima foliis scssilibus ovati-^, /lo-
ribus obtusii.

28S

^olanum Cari caule inermi herb. fol. pinnatis integ. nect. cam-
panulato subaequante petala.

DiGYNiA. — Heriiiaria PaycofoViis serratis.

Solsola Coquimlana fruticosa, caul, apliyilis, calyc. succulentis

diaphaiiis,
Gentiana Cachanlahuen Cor. quinquefidis infuudib. ramis op-

positis patulis.
Heracleuin Tuberosum fol. piuuatis, foliolis septenis, flor. ra-

diatis.
Scanuix Chilensis scmin. rostro longissimo, foliolis integiis

ovatolaiiceolutis.

TRiGYNiA.--Quiiic}iamaliinn Cg^n. nov.J CdX. 5-ff^A\x%. Cor,

5-fi(la. Caps. 3-loculatis poljsperma.
Quinchamaliuni Chilense.

Pentagynia.— Liiium Aquilinum fol. alternis lauceolatis,
pedunculis bifloris.

HEXANDRIA.
MoNOGYNiA.— Peumus (gen. nov.J Cal. 6-fidus. Cor. 6-
petala. Dnipa 1-sperma.

1 Peumus RuhraM. alternis, petiolatis, ovalibus, integerrimis.

2 Peumus j^lba fol. alternis, petiolatis, ovalibus, dentatis.

3 Peumus Mammosa fol. alternis, sessilibus, cordatis, intc-

gerrimis.

4 Peumus Boldus fol. oppositis, petiolatis, ovalibus, subtus

villosis.
Puya (gen. nov.J Petala 6 inaequalia, tribus major, fornicatis.

Cap. 3-locu!ari3.
1 Puya Chilensis.

OCTANDRIA.

JMo.NOGYNlA.— Sassia (gen. nov.J Cal. 4-i>li>llus. Cor. 4-

petala. Caps. 2-locularis, 2H5perma.
1 Syssiu Tinctoria fol. ovatis, scapo multifloro.
9 Sassia Perdicaria fol. cordatis, scapo uuifioro.

289

ENNKANDRIA..

MoNO(xYNiA. — Liuirus Causilca to!, ovalibus rugoeis, percn-

imntibus, \\ov. (jiradrilitlis.
Vaiikc f^t^n. riov.J Cd\. -i-lidiis. C'or. 4-fi(la. Caps, l-spenna.
1. I'ankt! Tinctoiia caiile ercrlo raceiiiifcro.
-. Pauke Acaulis r.uomo acauli.
Y'h'<xoY\\\zd Cgeri. nov.jQA.o. Cor. l-prUila. Cap^. 1-locr-

laiis, J -j>penna, \
1. I'lc^oihiza Gauicuru.

DFXANDRIA.

InIonooynia. — Ilipponian.ica fgen. nov.) Cal. 5 puriil us. Pe

tala .:)-o\ala. Caps. 4-lociilarii.
I. Hippomaiiica Insana.

OUjYNI A.--T!Hir;;iia [geii. nov.) Cor. l-petu!a, Culyc. tubu-

lo^'is. Caps. 2-lociilaiis, 2«sperina,
'. Tluiraria Chilcnsis.

?'eni A(;yni 'i.— Oxalis Tucerota pcduuo. nnibcllileiis, caub^

raiiioso, raiHoe tubero.-a.
Oxalis rirgosa 5ca})o niuililioro, fo!, teniatis ovatis.

]CCXSANDK1A.

AIoxoc.YXi A.--Cav!ii-. Coci'timhanus erocfv.<, ioiig;is, lv)-';in-
L!;ii!ariN, aiiguii.'* obtu>i^, sji'mis loimi-^^iiuis rectis.

."'■ImIus L]^ni i!or. svjiitaiii>, lanii^ oppositis, iuiiis ovahl)ii>
siil/sr^'ilibus.

MNrtu^ Lmnri, ibw, sobtariis, lob suborbiculatis.

'AiMt'i^ Maxima pcdiiuc. iiiubilluris, lab alteniis subovabbus.

I)i(. v\ i A.— I.iiruma (gin. nov.) Cab l-iidasc!iij>Hcatus. Cor. it

!>rii;-;! l-.^ou 2 pcrina.
1. Larun;.! ]i'f,rn t'obaUoniis, petiuUdi-, ovato oblcir*;..
'J. {,ii(j,;n;a TurHiiata ioL aitt'nii'-, })elio!aii-^, liu.i ei,|:i!;.s.
}. Li!"ii:;.:* VdipuraiUscca b;]. opp'.^i'is, pel !'.)hit;>, o'> -ito-ol)-

29d

4, Lucuma Keule fol. aUernis, petiolatis, ovalibu«, subserratis.

5. Lucuma Spinosa fol. alternis sessilibus, rarnis spinosis.

POLYANDRIA.
DiGYNiA.— Temus {gen. nov.) Cal. 3-fidus. Cor. 18-petala.

Bacca dicocca.
1 . Temus Moschata.

DIDYNAMIA.
Gymnospermia.— Ocymum Salinum fol. ovatis glabris,
caule geniculato.

Angiospermia,— Gevuina {gen. «oy.)Cal. 6. Cor. 4-petala.

Caps, l-locularis coriacea.
1. Gevuina Aveliana.

MONADELPHIA.
Decandria. — Crinodendroa {gen. nov.) Monogynia. Caps.

3-gona sperma.
1 . Crinodendron Patagua.

DIADELPIIIA.

Decandria.— Phaseolus Pallar caule volubili, leg. pendulis,

cylindricis, torulosis.
Phaseolus Asellus caule volubili, fol, sagittalis, semin. globosis,
Dolichos Fiinarius volubili caule pcrenni, Icgum. pendulis pen-

taspermis, fol. ovalibus utrinque glabris.
Psoralea Lulea fol. ternalis fasciculatis, folioHs ovatis rugosis,

spic. }>eduuculatis.

POLYADELPIIIA.

IcosanDRIA. — Citrus Chilensis fol. sessilibus acumiuatis.

SYNGENESIA.

PoLYG. iEguAL. — Eupatorium Chilense fol. oppositis am
plexicaulibus, lauceolatis, denticulatis, calycis quinque
floris.

Sanfoliua Tincioria pedunc. uniflor. fol. linearibus integcrri-
mis, caulibus striatis.

PoLYG. SuPERF. — Gnaphalium Viravira herb4 fol. dccuv-
rentibus, spatulatis, utriuque tomeatosis.

291

Madia (gen, nov.J Recept. nudum, pappus null us: cal. 8-pliil-
lus: stMu. planoconvexa.

1. Madia Sutiva fol. lineari lanceolatis, petiolatis.

2. Madia Mellosa fol, aniplexicaulibus lanceolatis.

PofA'G. FPtUSTK.— Heliantlms Thurifer caule fiucticoso, fol.
line ari-lanceolatis.

MOXOECIA.

Triandria. — Zea Curagua foliis denticulatis.

Poi.YANDRlA.— Colliguaja (gen. nov.J Masc. Cal. 4-fidus,
cor. 6. Stani. 8.

Vein. Cal. -i-ildus. Cor. 6. Sryli 3-Caps. angularis,
3-spcrma.
l.Colliguaja Odorifera.

Quillaja (gen. nov.J Masc. Cal. 4-plivllus. Cor. 6. Stain. 12.
Fein. Cal. 4-pliyllu3. Cor. 6. Styli 4-Caps. 4-locularis.
Sem. solitaria.
1, Quiilaja Saponaria.

Adelphia. — Finns Citpressoides fol. imbrioatis acnlis.
Pinus Araucana fol. turbinatis inibricatis hinc nuicronatis,
ramis quaternis eruciatis.

Syngenesia. — Cr.curbila Siceraria fol. angnlato sublobalis

toinento^is, poniis lignosis globosis.

Cucurbita Mammeata fol. multipaititis, pomis sphaeroidcis

nianimosis.

DIOECIA.

DiANDRiA. — Salix Chilensis i'ol. integcrrlmis glabris, lanceo-
latis, acuniinatis.

Di'.CANDRiA.— Schinus Huygan fol. piunatis : foliolis serratis
petiolatis, inijnui brevissimo.

POLYGAMIA.

Mono EC I A. — IMimosa Bahujnica incnnis fol. bipinualis, pai-^
tialibusC-jugis subdcnlicuiatis, flor. oetandris,
V '2i

293

Mimosa Cavenia spinis stipularibus patentibus, fol. bipinnafis,
spicis globosis vcrticillatis sessilibus.

Trioecia.— Ceratonia Chiknsis fol. ovalibus carinatis, ramis
spinosis.

PALME.

Cocos Chilensis inermis, frond, pinnatis, foliol. complicatis eii«
siformibus, spadicibus quaternis.

REGNUM LAPIDEUM.

PETR.E.

Calcaria. — Gypsum Vulcanicum particulis indeterminatis
caerulescens.

Argillaceje.— Mica Variegata mcDibranacea fissilis, flexllis,
pellucida, variegata.

Aggregat.b.— Saxum Chillense inipalpabile, luteum, ma-
culis spatosis rubris caeruleisque.

MINER.E.
SuLPHUHA.— Bitumen Andinum tenax ex atro caerulescens.

Metalla. — Cuprum Campanile mineralisatum stannosutD

cinereum.
Cuprum Laxense zinco naturalitcr mixtum.

FOSSILIA.

Terr.t:.— Arena Cyanca ferri micans caerulea.
Arena Talcensis ferruginea in aqua durescens.
Argilla Bucarina fusca, luteo-punctata, odoritera.
Argilla MauUca nivea, liibrica, afoniis nitidis.
Arjiilla Suldola atra, aquosa, tenacissima.
Aroilla Rovia 'dtenma, tinctoria.
Calx i'ulcania solubili.i, pulvtreo-granuIat«»=

A SUPPLEMENT

TO THE

TARUE OF THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM,

COXTAIKING SEVERAL SPECIES NOT INCLUDED THEREIN,
AND DESCKI3ED CR MENTIONED IN THIS WORK*.

Page 107 — Clienopodium folio sinuate, saturate virenti, vulgo

Quinua.
Page 108— Oxalis roseo flore erectior, vulgo Cullc.
Page 109 — Frngraria (Chiiensis) fructu maximo, foliis carnosis

liirsutis.
Page 1 1,3 — Bcruiudiana bulbosa, flore reflexo coeruleo.
Aiitroenieria (Ligta) caule ascendeute. Hemerocallis floribus

striatic.
Page 1'24---Tit.hynialus fol. triuerviis et cordatis, ^•ulgo Pichoa.
Polygala ca-rulca angustis et densioribus foliis. Clincliii,
Graiiien broiiioides catliaiticum. Guilno.
Virga aurea Icticoi folio iiicatio. Diuca-lahuen,
Lichiiiiiea vorbeiim tenui folio, folio. Sandia-laliuen.
(ieianiuin cotumbiiumi, corecore.

Page I'JJ— Jacobtea ieuoaiilbomi vulgaris folio, Giiilgue
I'agc 127— Bochi liliaceo, amplissimoquo, flore carmesino.

Copiu.
Page ICS— Urceolaria foliis cavr.osis scaii(len>.

» Tt havin<; horn found ditFuiilt, fidin the iinprrfcct descriptions of
,;^viMal of llu'x.- =;i)C(io<, to arrange thiia liiidiT their proper classes and
■ irdiTs tills collocation has been atUipted in preference to any c'ttu:r,---

/ . ('tis,

u 3

294

Coriaria (ruscifo'ia) fol. corrlalo-ovatls sessilibus. Deu.
Lonicera (corymbosa) coryinbis terminalibus, fol. ovatis, aciitis,

IJlhiu.
Poinciana spinosa, vulgo Tara.
Pseudo-araria foliis mucronatis, flore luteo, Mayu.
Paizo ] J3 — Psoialca gluHciuIosa, fol. omnibus ternatis, foliolis

ovato-lanceoJiit -i, s^jic. periuiicu'.ati-s, vulao CuUen.
Page 135 — Cestruni nocturnuin floribus peduuculatis, vulgo

Pulqui.
Arbuscula S-pedalis. Caules pliirinii, fistulosi, erecti, terete?,

aculeati, suptnic dichotomi. Folia alicrna, petioiata, ob-

longa, ii)t(<ria, veno«a, carnosa, 4-pollicarea. Fiores

coi vuibosi peduucultiti. Calyx 5-fidii.s. Corolla brevior.

Corolla monopct; la, infundibuliforniis, limbo piano 5-par-

ti^o, flavescons. Bucca ovalis violacea.
Page 138 — Datura arborea, pericarp; glabris inermibus nu-

tai.tibiis, caule arboreo. Floripondio.
Page 139 — Boiglie cinamomitera olivae fructu.

SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES,

ILLU^TItATIVE OF

THE HISTORY OF CHILI,

£.ifrncfid from an anonymous icork, tntitlcd, A Compendium of the
dcoi^raphka!, yalural, anil Civil Jliitori/ of Chili, printed in Bologna,
177(i.

J- HE Spaniards have divided that part of Chili belonging to
them, between the Aiide- and the sea, into fourteen provnices,
lo whieli may be added tl;c ' rchipelago of Chiloe, tlie islands
of Juan Fernandez, anfl ll;e province of Cujo. Each of
the>e, excepting Valdiv^a and file islands of Juan Fernandez,
is the residence of a jiiefect Culled the Correghlor, who pre-
sides over ti.e ci'il and military otiicer.- of liis C-oarlment,
and on whom llie Cabikic, ir ir..;:ristrate, is dependant.
These provinces, commencing on the side of Peru, are :

1st. CO PI A ro.

This piovlncc is bounded on the nortii by tlie deserts of
Peru, on the cast by the A.:des, (Ui X'.'C sonl'i by C("|uiiiibo,
and on the west bv the Par'fir 0\ ,:\. 't is in ieii^:''! iVoni
north to soulli about oue muiu i I .i,;Uc> a. 1 . ■ u. ivth
from cast to west foitv-four. Ii i wueiid I,;, i' ■^'. ri'crs
Salado, Copi;ip(», troni whence n de;!>es ;• i/anie, i\: i'g'io,
Totoral, Queb;,i(h;j)(>ii(i;i, (jlua-ro, -vjd C i(.,i<u. \^ ;:';(. ;h is
witii ;;ol(l, lapis ' i/tiii, sulpli..i, •■ ' !• ; ^iie -; i!, \',hich. is 1 .and
in alnunt all the iiioiiiil.'ius iK.t, tein..nate ii o uii ea.-t its
capital, ol' the same uanK, is mIu;;! i ipji. lu vivcr (.'.' :a;'0,
in I'O". deg. 5u. mil), S, latitude, and jUj, J. W. luugiiude.

u 4;

296

it contains a parish, a convent of Meicedarii, and a collei;e
which lormeil} belonged to tlie Jesuits. On the river Guasco
are situated tlie towns of Sauta-Rosa and Guascoalto, both in
CO dc^. of latitude, the first at four leagues distance from the
sea, and the second in tiie neighbourhood of the An(le.?. Tliis
j)rovince has two ports, one at the mouth of the river Copiapo,
i!nd the other at tliat of the (juasco, which are known by th^
names of those rivers.

IM. COQUIMBO,

CogUlMBO, hciinded on the north by Cop;a])o, on liic-
oust bv tlie Andes, on tlic south-east by Aconcagua, on th'^
soutli-west by Qiiillota, and on the west by ttie sea, is forty-
five leagues in length, and forty in breadth. Its rivers are the
C''.(iuini])o, Ton'ioi, Limari, and Ciniapa. It is rich in ,'^ohl,
cop]^er, iron, wine, olives, and other fruits, both those of Eu-
ropean origin, and as sucli as are natural to the country. lis
caitiia! is Cocpiimbo, otherwise called la S'.'retia, which wa^i
founded in the year 1544, by Pedro de Valdivia. This city
is tiie residence of several nolile and ancient lainilies ; it. i'^
p'eafantly situated upon the river Co(piiinbo, in '2^). de'^. 4.').
mill, of latitude, and 304. '22. of longitude. The fields around
't arc in a rc-iStr.nt stale of verdure, thougli it seldom rail, ,
tiicre, and tl'c leinperatuie of the air is very mild. It ha-
Ixen '-everal 'iines taken and plundered by the Englisi].
Besides the paroclsial church, it ctaitains several convents of
!nonl-.s of diftercnt orders, and a coHege formerly belonging
to the .Tciuits. 'j'here ai^ two jxjrts in this province, that of
rofjuihubo, near the mouth of the ri\er of th;it name, at two
h'amics distance from the city, where scur.e vessels iVom Peru
j(»;'d annualiy ; and that of To)igo', towards Ih.e coiiiiiH> ''f
(v^iiilo'.'i.

29T

3.1. auiLLOTA.

riiis province is hounded by that of Coq'imbo on the
north, on the east h\ Aconciigini, on the south by Me'.ipilla,
.;;i(i uu the west by tlie sea. It is luenty-five leajjues in
ieiiL'th, and sixteen in breadtii. Its rivers are the Longotonia,
i-igua, Aconcagua, and Limache. This district is one of the
Jiiosl popidous and the ricliesl in gokl of any in Oiih. Its
htinp and honey are mucli esteemed, Tlie capital, Quillota,
or St. Martin, is situated in u pleasant valley on the borders
of the river Aconcagua, in 32. 56. of latitude, and 304. 20.
of longitude. It has a parish, with the churches of St. Do-
iiiinick, St. Francis, St. /Vugustine, and a college formerly of the
.Jesuits. Ihis province contains also rh^ cities of Piazza,
j'hiziila, Ingonio, Casablanca, and Petrorca. This last is very
nnpulous, in consequence of the great number of miners who
■esori tlii'dier lo work in the gold mines in its vicinity, U is
situiUed on the river Longotoma, in 31. 30. south latitude, and
30,j. longitude. Quillota contains a number of ports, the
jnost considerable of which are Papudo, Quintiro I'Erradura,
Concon, and Valparaiso. The fou'- tirst are not frequented;
Valparaiso, or Valparadiso, the most commercial port of
(^Jiiii, IVo/n whence all the trade to Spain and Peru is carried
on, is in 32. 2. of latitude, and 304. 11. of longitude. The
i.iarbour is very c.ipariou^, aiid so deep tliat ships of the
largest si/e can hV, clo-e to the shore. Its convenience for
iratlic, and the salubrity of its atmosphere, have re;:ilcred it
.t p'a(<' ()[' c(iii>i(lirablc poi)ulation. A governor from Spain
)t -lirlr - there, Avho ha-' the commantl in the civil and military
(itjKirinuuts, iiud is aniciiablc only to the ])rcsident of Chili.
J.i'sides the loilege, which tornierly belonged to the Jesuits,
V alp;!rai>o contains a parish clunch and >everal convents of
monk'^. I pon the shore which forms the harbour is a well
peopled to\M), tlirte uiiios distant I'loni \alpiiraiso, called

298

4th. ACONCAGUA.

Aconcagua is enclosed between the provinces of Go-
quiinbo, Quillota, Santiago, and tlie Andes. It is of the
same size as Quillota, an J is watered by the same rivers. It
produces great quantities of grain and fruits, and much cop-
per is procured from its mountains. The famous silver mines
of Uspailata are situated in that part of the Andes correspond-
ing to it. Its capital is Aconcagua, or St. L nilih, upon the
river of the same name, in 32. 48. of latitude, and 305. 50,
of longitude. Besides a parochial church, it contains several
ccnvciits of various religious orders, and a house which be-
longed to the Jesuits. Near the Andes is a village called
Cnrimon, where the strict Franciscans have a numerous con-
vent.

5th. MELIPILLA.

IMelipilla is bounded on the north by Quillota, on the
east by Santiago, on the south by the river ISIaypo, which di-
vides it frrm Rancagua, and on the west by the sea 1 his
province is of small extent npon the sea, but is about twenty-
five leagues from east to west. Its rivers are the Mapocho
and Poangue, and it abounds with wine and grain. IMelipilla,
or St. Joseph de Logronno, situated not far from t!ie Maypo,,
in 32. 32. of latitude, and 30 i. 5. of longitude, is the capital.
Although the situation of this place is beautiful, and the land
near it very fertile, yet, fronr its vicinity to St. Jago, where the
greater part of the proprietors reside, it is but tiiinly peopled.
Notwithstanding, besides a parish church, the Augustines and
the Mercedarii have establislnnenls tliere, and the Jesuits had
also a college. Near the river Mapocho is the town of St.
Francis del Monte, so called from an ancient convent of
Franciscans, around which a number of poor families having
collected, formed the population of this place, la its vicinity

S99

nrc p.^cral -country bouses l.elonginc; to some of the princijial
iiiliubitaiits of St. Jago. Not far from the mouth of the
liver Mavpo is the port of Sr. Autonio; this was much fre-
quented al an eaily period of the Spanish settlement, but since
iho trade lr>is been transferred to Valparaiso, few or no ves-
sels conliime to load there.

Cth. ST. JAGO, OR ST. JACOPO.

The province of St. Jago is bounded by that of Aconca-
gua to the north, the Andes to the east, the river Maypo to
the south, and Melipilla to the west. It is fifteen leagues in
extent from east to west, and twelve from north to south, and
is watered by the rivers Mapocho, Coliiia, and Zampa, and by
several other beautiful streams. It aUo contains the lake
Pudajucl, which is about three leagues in length. It is the
n!o.>t tortile of any part of Chili, producing great quantities
of corn, WU10, and fruits, particularly peaches, which in size and
flavour surpass any others of the country. The mountains of
Caren abound with mines of gold, and that part of the Andes
which is attached to it with silver. But the chief importance
of this province is derived from it being the seat of the
capital of the kingdom, founded in 1541, by Pedro de Val-
di\ia. This beautiful city, called St. Jago, stands on an ex-
len-ivc and deligli'ful plain on the southern shore of the river
Mapocho, which separates it from the suburbs of Chindja,
Caimadilla, and Renca. It is supj^lied with water by a great
number of aqueducts, which afe carried to all the houses. On
each side of the river, mounds of stone have been built as a
security against inundati<^)ns, and over it is a beautiful l)ridgc
that connects the city with the suburbs. I' is situattd in 33
dcg. 31 uiin. south latitude, and in 30.). 40. longitude, at the
distance of thirty Icaijues fom the sea, and seven from the
Andes, whose iofly sno'v-clad height^ iDrm a beautiful con-
trast Willi the verdure of its scenery, The streets, like those

SCO

of ail the other cities and villages in Ciiiii, arc straight and
intersected at ri'jht angles, and are thirty-six geometrical feet
iu breadth. The great square is four hundred and fifty
feet on each side. In the midst is a handsome fountain
*4' bronze. Tha north side is occupied by the palaces of
the presidents of the audience and of the city, beneath
whicii are the public prisons. On the opposite side is the
palace of ihc Count dc Sierra-bella. On the western are the
caihe.iral and the palace of the arclibishop, and on the east-<
ern ihree houses beloi.ging to nobieriien. The most remark-
abk; edifices are the cathedral, the church of St. Dominiek,
and tliut of the great college fonnerly belonging to the
Jesuits. The pri'.ate h(>u>es are handsome and pleasant; but,
oa account of cariijquakes, are usuallj of but one story»
]B> <i'ic'-. the su^fuibs on the otlit-r side of the liver, there is one
t« tiie souiii, talied St. Isidore ; it is very large, and separated
from the cit) by a street four times as broad as the others,
cai'ed Car.nada. In tiie eastern part of tlie city is a hill,
culleu St. Lucia, which formerly served as a forties") against
tliC (ii'iiaii-. The iniiabitants amount to forty-six thousand^
ar-.d their inimbers increase raj)idiY, in consequence of the
greai commerce of the place, which is \ery extensive in pro-
Vi'.'tt to its pojiulatioii, as the houses are in general very coni-
ijiodious. The parochial cht;rclie'^ are but four, the cathedral,
St. i\una, St. Isidore, and Kenca, Tliere are, huMcvcr, several
convents of nuniks, two Dominica.n, four Franciscan, two Au-
gustiii, twoof the Meicedarii, and one belonging to tlie Brotiiers
of Ciiaritv with an hospital, besides seven nuimeries, a house
of correction for won.en, a foundlini; hospital, several private
endowments, a college of nobility, which was under the direc-
liwn of the Jes\iiis, and a Trideniine seminary. Tlie Jesuits
hud likewise here a house of devotion, and three colleges
with public schools, wherein were taught the various branches
of learning. St .higo also contains a rojal university, a mml
for coining goh! and silver, and barracks for the soldiers, wIm

301

arc employed to maintain tlic police, ?,nd as guards to the
president, and is tiie seat ot" tlie grand tribunals of the king-
dom. Tile principal court is composed of twelve Res,idoerSf
or perpetual senators, and of all the other officers who form
the magistracy of the other cities of tlie country. It has a
numerous nobihty, consisting of .'•everal di<^nities of Custile,
i^raudees, kniglits of the military orders of Spain, and hono-
rary officers of his Catholic Majesty. Being the centre of all
the commerce of Chili, it abounds with every convenience of
life, and as ail kinds of meat, fish, and other articles of food
are obtained from the neii^hbouring provinces iu great quan-
tities ; provisions are very cheap.

7th. RANCAGUA.

Rancagua is enclosed between the rivers Maypo hv.A
Cachapoal, and extends from the Andes to the sea. Its
breadth between these rivers is very unequal, being from
jeventeen to only cigLl leagues. It is watered by the rivers
Codegua, Ciiocalan, and several otliers that ; re of less ini-
pnrtance; it contains also the lakes Anrieu and Bucuieniu.
Tiie first, which \i near the centre of the province, is about
six miles in circumference, and the c'lier, in tl>e neir^libour-
hood of the sea, i« from six to seven leagues iu length. From
another lake, not far from tiic latter, large quaiuities of salt
are obtained. The lands of Rancagua are very fertile, and
produce much grain. Santa Crore di Trium.a, or Rancagua,
the capital, is in o-i. (leg. of iaiitude, and 305. 'i'Z. li.iigilutle.
It has a parish church, a convent of Franciscans, and another
of Mercedarii, Algue, a town recently luunch'd, at eight
leagues from the capital towards the sea-cousl, has a very ri« h
mice of gold.

502

8th. CALCHAGUA.

Tins province is situated between the rivers Cachapoal

ynd Teno, and between the Andes and the sea. Its breadth

from north to south, near the Andes, is twenty-five leagues,

and near tlie sea, about fourteen. Its rivers are the Rio-

clarillo, Tinguiririca, and Cliimbarongo. In it are also the

great lakes Taguatagua, and Caguil, the first of which is full

of beautiful islands, and the other abounds with large clamps,

that are highly esteemed. This province is very fertile in

grain, wine, and fruits, and produces much gold. It forms a

})art of the district occupied by the Proniaucians, a name

signifying people of delight, derived from the beauty of the

country which they inhabit. The cnpitul is St. Ferdinando,

wliich was built in the year 1742, not far from the pleasant

river Tinguiririca, in 34, 18. deg. of latitude, and 305. 30. of

longitude. Be ides the parish church, it has a convent of

Franciscans, and a college with a handsome church, which be-

loniied to the Jesuits. The towns of Rio-clarillo, Malloa, and

Roma, are also situated in the same province.

9th. MAULE.

INI AULE is bounded on the north by Calchagua, on the east
by the Andes, on the south-east by Chilian, the south-west by
Itata, and on tlie west by the sea. This province is forty-four
leagues long, and forty broad, and is watered by tiie rivers
Lantue, Rioclaro, Pangue, Lircai, Iluenchullami, Miiule, from
which it derives its name, I'utagan, Aciiiguema, Longavi,
J^oncornilla, Purapel, and other.'^ of inferior consideration.
This province, as well as the pieceding, abounds in grain,
wine, fruits gold, salt, catile, and sea and river lisli. The
cheese nradc here is the best in Chili, 'dnd i.-. no way inferior to
that of I'liurt 'itia or Holland. Its inhabitinits, who are mostly
the descend !'its of tiie valiant Promaucians, are courageous
robust, and warlike. The capital Talca, or -St. Augustin, was

303

built in the year 1742. It is situated among liills on tlie river
Hioclaro, in latitude 34. 4/. and 304. 45. of longitude. Its
population is very eonsiderable, owing, not only to the rich
mines of gold that are found in its mountains, hut to tlie plen-
tifuiness of jnovisions, which are cheaj)er tlian in any other
part of Chili, This latter circumstance has induced several
tioble families from St. Jago and Conception, whose finances
had become diininished, to retire thither ; an emigration whicli
has been denominated, in derision, the bankrupt colony. It
contains a parish, with convents of Monks of the Franciscan,
Dominican, Angustin, and Merccdaiii orders, and a college
that belonged to the Jesuits, In this province are also the
towns of Curico, Cauquenes, St. Saverio di Bella Isla, St, An-
tonio delta Florida, I.ora, and three or four other Indian vil-
laijes. Curico, or St. Joseph of Bueno Vista, was built in the
vear 1742, and is situated in a pleasant plain at the fool of a
beautiful hill, in 34. 14. degrees of latitude, and 305 degree*
of longitude. It contains a parish church, a convent of Mer-
cedarii, and another of strict Franciscans, Hhich is very large.
Cauquenes was built tlie same year, and lies in ST). 40. degrees
of latitude, and in 304. 30. of longitude, between the two
small rivers Tutuberi and Cauquenes. Besides the parish
church, it has a conveut of Franciscans. St. Saverio di Bella
Isla, and St. Antonio della Florida, were fouuded in the year
1765 ; the first is in 35. 4.. degrees of latitude, and 304. 5,9. of
longitude, and the second in '55. 20. of latitude, and 304. 41 .
of longitude. Laro, situate near the disembogueu)ent of the
river Mataquito, is a numerous settlement of Promauciau In-
dians, and is governed by a Cacique or Ulmen.

10th. ITATA.

The province of Itata lies upon the sea-coast, between
Mafde and Puchacay, and is bounded on the east by Chilian.
From east to west it is twenty leagues in length, and from
north to south eleven, and is intersected by the river Itata.

304

from whence it derives its name. The best wine of any In
Chili is obtained from this province, which, from its being
produced from lands belonging to the inhabitants of Con-
ception, bas received the name of Conception. Much
gold is also found in the mountains, and in the sands of the
rivers. Its capital, Jesus of Conlemu, is situated near the
mouth of the river Itata, in 36. 2. degrees of latitude, and
305. 41. of longitude, and was founded in the year 17'43.

11th. CHILLAN.

Chillan is bounded on the north by Maule, on the east
by the Andes, on the south by Huilquilemu, and on the west
by tiie province of Ituta. It is of the same extent as the
preceding, and is watered by the rivers Nuble, Cato, Chillan,
Digijillin, and Dannicalquin. This whole di>trict is a plair>,
and very favourable to the raising of sheep, which are highly
esteemed for their wool throughout the kingdom. Corn anfl
fruits are also produced there in great quantities. The capital
is called St. Bartholomew of Chilian. It was founded in the
year 1:380, and is situated on the river Chillan, in 36 degrees
of latitude, and 30 j. 2. of longitude. It has been destroyed
sevcrid times by the Araucanians, and in the year 1/51 was
overthrown by an earthquake. In consequence of lliis acci-
dent, the inhabitants transferred it the succeeding year to a
more commodious site, and out- less e.x}>osed to the inun-
dations of the river. This city is well j)eopled, notwith-
standing which it contains but one parish church, with con-
vents of the Franciscan, Dominican, and Mercedarii orders,
and a college which belonged to the Jesuits.

12th. PUCIIACAY.

PucHACAY is bounded on the north l.>y the ))roviiicc of
Itata, on the east by Huilquilemu, on the soutii by the rivor
r;iobio, and tn the west by the so;;. From nortii to south it

305

Is twelve leagues in extent, and twenty from east tt; west. It
is ill r/\U:-(\ by the river Andalieii and several other sniall
itreanti. !t nroduces <zo\.\ iliiit in aUundaiice, and also "reat
qnaiitiiies of strawberries both wild and cultivated, which are
the lai'rest in Chili. Gnalqui, or Si. John the Baptist,
founded in the ^ear 1754, u))on the iiortlierji sliore of the
river Bio-bio, in 30'. 44. de^iees of iiitiuule, and 304. 48. of
longitude, is ])roperly the capital, and the residence of the
Prefect or Corrfgidor. This province comprehends the
I'refecturate of Conception, which extends a little beyond the
■city t)f tluit name.

Concej)rion, called in the language of the country Ponco,
\ras founded, by Pedro di Valdivia, in a dell, or valley,
formed on the sea-coast ])y some beautifid liiiis, in latitude
3(). 42. and longitude 303. '23. This city is liie scv:ond in the
kingdom. At its connneucement it ilourisiied great 'v, from
the vast quantities <»f gold that were dug in its viciniiy ; but
alter tiie uiit'ortunate battle of jNlarriqucno, in the year 1.5.)4,
it was abaiuioned by Villagran the governor, and the inhahit-
ants, on the approach of Lauiaro, the Araucaiiian general,
and bv him l;;ken and buri;ed. It was, however, rebuilt in t'je
month of November of tiie f)lIo'/. in.'- year after a period of
six months ; but Lautaro, returning, ag;!in remlered himself
iiiaster of it, slew in tlie a-.>Du!t the greater part of the garri-
j^on, and razed it to its fou;j. lalions. \jci\ Garcia de Mendoza,
alter his \iclories over Cuiiouran, re>,t;;ied it anew, ^\v\ for-
lilied it stro[)glv. Having su( ces-fr.'!- i•esi^ied t.'ie attempt of
the Araueaniaus to tatce it, wh.o be--icged it for lifty ('^r-, s, it
contiriued to flourish in great s-^!e"dour niiti! the year iGO'j,
when, uith the t)!iur > ;athi~rn '-ities ^-^' tliL Sp.uiiards, it was
tahen a;u! i)r.nied hv ti:e Toqui Paillamachu. It soon, how-
ex er, bcM.iU to rise again from it^ ashes, and re^u!^;e ii^ !, iir.er
iU'^tre, in consequence (»Mhe t^v'u! CMr.mt ice wliii h was ear-
lied on 'licre; and beceniijjg !iio;i> -Irong a:i(l pojailous Ihau
LW(r, tiie Aruueanlans teaHMJ to iHo!e-,t it. But in the ycSf

VOL. I, X

305

1/30, a calamity of a new kind assailed it. It \va3 ahnos?
totally destroyed by an eart'iqiiake, attended h\ an inunda--
lion of the sea, which oveiflowed the greater j)arr, and swept
away every thing that it met in its conrse. Notwithstandinf,'
these repeated misfortunes, the inhabitants obstinately re-
solved to persevere, aiid built it anew in a handsome manner,
but did not enjoy it long; for, in the monlh of May of tin-
year] 75], this devoted city vas agidn destroyed by an eartii-
quake and an iullux of tlic sea, which entirely covered it.
They fortunately escaped, aiid took refuge on the neighbour.
hvj: hills, but continued for thirteen years in an unsettled state,
not being able to agree among ihem^eives iji rebuilding the city.
At length t'ley resolved to ai)an(l<)u i'o former site, and founde<l
a new cilv, at the distance of a loagi'.e from tiic .sea, in a beau-
tiful pluin, called Mocha, upon the northern sliore of the Bio-
bio. The Prefect, or Corregidor, is, at the same time, by the
royal decree, comniander of tlie army, this being the principal
])lace for (he rendezvous of the militia of the covmtry. It ha^
for many years been the re-idence of the camp-master-general,
and of late that of the sergeant-major. The royal treasury in
this place, from whence the soldiers of the frontiers, as well
as those belonging to the city, are paid, is confided to the care
of a treasurer, a cashier, and an inspector. The z\udienza, or
royal council, was first established in Conception, in the year
l.iO'J', but uas afterwards abolished, and re-established some
vears after in the capital of St, Jago. The presideiit is, hov,-
ever, obliged to reside in this city for six months, and has a
palace in it built at the expense of the government. After the
destruction of the city of Imperial, in the year l603, it wa»
erected into a bishopric. Besides containins; convents of all
•he religious orders established in Chili, it has one of the
sifters of the Trinity, a college which belonged to the Jesuits,
with public schools, in which were taught tbe sciences of hu-
n;anity, philosoi)hy, and theology, a college of nobility, which
i\'as iikewise under the direction of the Jesuits, and aTrideu-

307

tine S(*!v,in:irv. The inliabi! arils, in consequence of so rnnny
n)i^t^l■^!!ll(^■,, sc'.irceiy umoiiut ut present to tliirtoeii tlionsaiul.
Tiic tiMiipcratiire of the air is ;it all seasons very niiki ; tlie soil
i'oi!;i(', aiul tlso sea-coast aboiuuls with every species of ti->h of
thr !no«t (lelici(,us kiiids^, both scaled and testaceous. The
Inuhonr, or bay, is sj)acioi!s, extcndint; full tliree lea^^ucs and
u half from noith to soulb, aird as many from east to west,
'llie Quiriqniiia, a beai:iifid and fertile island, siti'ated at ils
iiioulli, forms two entrances to if, tlie eastern of vihich, called
Bor.ca Grande, is two Kiiles wide, and tlie western, called
Bocca Chica, is but a little nifsre than a mile. Tlie harbour
ailords good and s~afe anchorage for vessels of any bunleu,
especially iu a j)ort called Talcagnano, where sliips at present
lie, as the new city is not far distant.

l-3lh. IIUILQUILOIU.

The ijroviiice of Ilidlqui'eniu, commonly called Estanziadei
Rei, the royal jjo^sesrion, is situated between Cliilian, the
Andes, the river Bio bio and Pucacliay, and is i«i length and
breadth the same as the precediuir. lis ri\ers are the Itata,
Claro, Laxa, and Dnqueco. This district is rich in g;old dust,
and ])roducei an excellent nuisc;uh'l wine. The inhabitants
are valiant and warlike, having been accustomed to fight with
their formidable neighbours the Araucanians. The capital is
called F.stanzia del Jlei, or St. Leui'; di Gonzaga, and was
built not many yeais since, near the Bio bio, in 3G deg. 43 nii-
nules of hui'udc, and 304. 48. of lf)ngitude. Besides iJie
palish church there is au ancient colleoe of the Jesuits. To
protect this province from the incursions of Itie Araucanians,
the Spaniards liave erected, upon the shore of the Biu-bio^
wi'.liin lluir territory, the forts ot" J umbel, Tncapen, St, Bar-
l>ara, and Piivon. Tiieir barrier, however, is situated on the
souTJicrn baiiU of that rivi-r, ■And consists of the f(nts of Aran-
<.'0, Colcura, St. Pedro, St. Joanna, Naiciuicnto, aud Angeles,

SOS

14tl]. YALDIVU.

This province is entirely sep.jrated from all the others pos-
sessed by the Spauiurds in Chih, being situated in the midst of
the country occupied by tlse Araucanians, which comprehends
a tract of about seventy leagues in length. It lies upon the
sea-coast, on both sides of the groat river Valdivia, and on the
.south is bounded by the Guinchi, or Cunchi, who are in pos-
session of its southern part. It is about twelve leagues long,
and six broad, and abounds with valuable timber, and with
gold dust, esteenieti the purest of any in Chili. Its capital is
the famous city, fortress, and {"sort of Valdivia, situated on the
southern shore of the river of that name, at three leagues dis-
tance from the sea^ in 39- 58. degrees of latitude, and 305. 2.
of longitude. Tiiis city was founded in the year 1551, by the
ronqucror Pedro de Valdivia, who gave it his name, and ob-
tained inimoHSC sums of gold from its vicinity. Its wealth
allured many inhabitants thitiier, and it became, even at its
conmiencement, one of the most populous cities in the king-
dom. It was twice besieged inefl'ectually by the Toqui Cau-
polican, but it was not so forttmate in resisting the talents and
activity of the celebrated Paillamachu. In the year 1599 't
was surprised at nigiit by that general with four thousand men,
wiio killed the greater part of the garrison, consisting of eight
liundred soldiers, and, having burned the city, carried off a
miliion in gold, and a valuable booty, consisting of the efiects
of the inhabitants, together with a great number of prisoners.
The Spaniards, convinced of the importance of this situaiion,
rebuilt it anew, and fortified it so strongly, that it resisted all
'he attejnpts of the Araucanians. It \\a>, however, taken in
the year >6'-10 by the Dutch, who. notwithstanding they were
deterniiued to l.eep it, were conijiclled to abandon it, being
frustrated in Ihrir <ittenip!-< to fcrin .;n aliiancc with the Arau-
canians and till- runclii, who eve;; rriused to supply them witli
provi'iio:! •, "f u'.iiiii they were in gitut want. TiiC .''paniards,
>4

:jo9

who liiid fitted out a considerable fleet to retake it, finding it
on their arrival ubandiiierl, re{. aired and fortified it in u better
manner than before, adding four stroni; castles or forts upon
both sides of the river towards the sea, to defend it from
foreign invasion, and aiiotlier on the north, to protect it from
tiie uieursions of the Arancanians. These precautions have
liitherto succeeded in securing it against external eiicniies, but
it has suflfered severely from fire, winch has twice alaiost en-
tirely destroyed it. The haiboiir i.-; situated in a btauti'ad bay,
formed by the river, and is the safest, the strougest from its
natural position, and the most capacious of any of the ports in
the South Sea, The island of Manzera, situated just hi the
mouth of the river, forms two passages, bordered by steep
mountains, and strongly fortified. As this is a post of the
most importance of any in the Pacific, a governor is always
sent from Spain, who possesses reputation as a military officer,
and is under the immediate direction of tlie president of the
kingdom. He has under his command a considerable number
of troops, who are otiicered bv the five castellans, or com-
manders of fhe castles, a sergeant-major, a proveditor, an in-
spector, and sevral ca]>!;>iiJ3. For the jtay of the soldiers
thirfy-six tliousand cr(iwn» are annually sent hiiher troin the
royal treasury of Peru, and the provisions recpiisile for their
subsistence from the other ports of Chili. The Jesuits led
formerly a college here; there are be^<ides some convents (-t
Franciscans, and of the Brothers of Charity, with a roval hos-
oital, aiiv! the parish church.

THE ARCIIIPELAC.O OF CHILOE

Is a great gnl))h or bay at the southern extivinily of Cliiii,
.-coo))ed out, as it were, in a circular form by the South S»a
?o llie skirts of the Andes. Thi? gulph c\tenvi> from latiftMlc
-11. 20. to -14. 40. and from h^iujitude 303. to o()4. 50. The
>!a!;(l- tliat it contaiiis auiouiit to t:)rty-s,cvcn, ol" wliith t'!;;i'v-

X °;

310

rwo have been peopled h\ ll;e Spau' '.rds or ladiaiis, and the
remaining are iiuinhabite<!. Among ?iie I'oniier there is one
that is very large, some that are ol" a uio'iciale size, being
from tv/elve to fjiieen ieatius i;i length, but thi' others are
smali. The large island, which is called Chiloe, lias, in later
times, commiinirated its nanse to tli«; Arciiipelago, \\hich was
forrr.erly known b% that ofAncud. Thi.-i iskin*!; MJiose v.est'nn
coast runs from north to soutii, tlie s;i:iu' coiirse as th.at ot the
continent, is situated in the very nioiitl) ot the iiulph, Itavtug
only two passages, one ot which, between its noriheni exUo-
mity and the shore of the continent, is littie Ji\ore '!;un tiiree
miles in breaihh; but the other, between i(s sou'licrn poiiii
and the foot of the Andes, is more than twelve Itnguea. Ti::i
island is situated between the forty firs! and a ii^lf, and the
forty-fourth degrees of latitm'e, and is about sixty leagiies in
length, and twenty in its greatest breadth. The land, like that
of all the other islands, is uioimtainous, and covered with al-
most impenetrable thickets. The rains are excessive, and only
in the autumn do the inhabitants enjoy fifteen or twciity days
of fair w eather iu sutcessioji. During any other .^^euson, w ei e
ciuht days to pass wilhout rain, it would be eiteemed a sin-
gular phenomenon. Tix; atmo.^phere, of coiuse, is very
humid, and streams and rivers are to be found in every part.
The air, notwitlistanding, is very salubrious, and the teinjtera-
lure so mild, that it is never know n to be either iiot or very
cold. Owing to the great degree of moisture, grain and fruits
produce but very inditierently in these islands; t!ie corn, iiow-
evtr, that is raised there is suli:cit)U ior ihe supply of !he in-
habitanis. Barley, bean-, and fiuK, ])rod:ice very well. Of
kitchen hnbs, the cabbage ;ind garlic are the only ones tiiat
grow there. The gr.,pe ne\er a'tains to maturity, and the
same is the case wjlh ail otiier fruits, except the apple and
i,oinc wildings. Bt-ef, tiiough not so plenty as in Chili, is by
no means scarce. Horses, though not in such lumibers as on
iliV tuutinent, are yet coraroon, and there is scarcely a person

Sll

Vvho is noi llie owner of one or two. Asbcs die in a short time
?.flcr tlif V arc transported tliillier, whenre there is not a nnile
lo be found throughout the wliole of the Archipelago. The
uiiinnils that are met with in the greatest abundance are sheep
and hogs, in which llie inhabitants carry on a considerable
trade. The wild animals, natural to the country, are deers,
fitters, and a species of black fox. Domestic fowls, as well
as wild, are produced there in great numbers. Tn addition to
these, the benevolent Author of Nature has, as an iudenniity
for those things of which they are destitute, provided all these
islands with vast quautities of excellent lish of all kinds. Am-
bergris, of a superior quality, is also found there, and much
honey, which is made l)y the wild bees. Wood is likewise
very plentiful, and of a kind fitted for every sort of manu-
facture and ship-building.

Tliis Archipelago was first discovered in the year 155S, by
Don Garcia de Mendoza, governor ol' Chili, but no attempt
\vas then made to conquer it. But in l.jG.j, Uon Martino Ruiz
(janiboa was ient there, who, with only sixty men, subjecled
its inhabitants, to the nundier of seventy thousand, without
experiencing the lea^t resistance, and Ibundt d, in the principal
inland, the city of * Castro antl the port of Chaca. 'I'liese
Indians, called Chiiotes, remained submissive to Spain, until
tlie present century, when they threw oft' the yoke, but were
ioon brought under subjection, througli the conduct of
general Don Pedro Molina, who was sent irom Conception to
reduce them to obeJ.it'Uce. AiUiounh descended fronj the
(Miilians, whom they resemble in apj>earance, custom, and hui-
guage, these peo|)le are extremeiv timid, and verv docile.
'J'hey are reuiarkcsble for their ingenuity, and rt-adily act[uire
a kr;owledge of any thing to whirli tlie\ atu)!y tiiemselves.
There are amr)ng them very exj^ert carpen'.cM, cbinet-miikers,

* tic ci.H.'-d if so in honour of l.iipi' Garcia (ii- ('•str't, then \'irrrov
< 1" Pcii!, iind ijuve hu own iiaQH-, Ga!nl)ou, to tiie river which pa.-ics l)j
if.- i:. E.

312

and lurners. In the ir.r.v.ufciCturing of flax and wool, they
dis;>': y much skill, and make beautiful bed-coverings from
these materials, mixed with feathers, and also some cloths,
uhich they embroider with various colours. They have a
strong attachment to a sea life, and become excellent sailors.
Their barks, called piragiies, consist of three or four large
planks sewed together, and caulked with a kind of oakum or
moss, collected from a shrub. These are very numerous
throughout the Archipelago, and arc managed with sails and
oars, and voyages are often ma'le in them as far as Concep-
tion. The Chilotes educate their sons well, and accustom
them to labour at an early age. When taught, they make a
rapid progress in learning. Some years since, a school was
established for them in a village called Ciionchi, into which
one hundred and fifty were admitted, and all of them, in the
space of a single year, were taught reading and writing, the
first rules of arithmeiic. the doctrines of Christianity, and the
Spanish language. They were easily converted to Christianity,
and they live m such strict regard to its duties, that the purity
of the primitive church appears to be revived in them. Some
tribes of savages have likewise settled in tliese islands, who
have been persuaded by the missionaries to Io:*.vc the iMagel-
I^mic districts, in order to establish theuiselves in the Arclii-
pelago.

Tlie {.'"verim'.cr:* i's vested in a governor, who is dej}er,dant
upon the picsident of Ciiili, ',;nd resides at CliaciiO, a Cabildo,
or n);ig!'<trato, vitii liis Prei'ert, or Cor re gidnr, in the city of
Caslrfj, who have conjuviCLively cogi!i;:ance uf the private suits
of ll;e Indians, and u co:Tnuai;Ja;it in the island of Calhuco,
situated in the i.ortheri.r/io^^t part of the gulph. The Archi-
jtelfig > is divi:!ed into three parishes, depenoant upon the dio-
(:'->(■ of Concej.lion, tiie bishops of which, except one and a
bi-hup in pari'ibus. never go there, because of the danger of
the voy.ige. It contains seventy-fi\ e towns, mostly inhabited
by Indians, who are under tise government of iliiir Ulmenc*,

313

in eacli of whicli tlje Jesuits liad a missionary clnircli. The
two ])rinci|)Hl )ii;ires are Castro and Chacao.

Castro, tlic <a[>;uil ot the \vi:ole Achipelago, is situated in
the eastern j>art ot" the grtat, island, upon an arm or gulph of
the sc:i, ia *42. .'58. degrees of S. latitude, and 303. 15. of lon-
gitude. Th" houses, like those in all the other islands, arc
built of wooti. The inhabitants, who are not + numerous,
usually live upon their own possessions. Besides the parish
church and the college, formerly belonging to the Jesuits,
tlicre is a convent of Franciscans, and another of Mcrcedarii^
n which two or three monks reside. The port of Chacao lies
nearly in the middle of the northern coast of the same island^
upon the principal channel, which runs between that shore and
the continent, in 42 degrees of latitude, and 307. 3/. of lon-
gitude. This port has good anchorage, and is well defended
from the winds, but the entrance is very difficult, owing in
some measure to the currents and eddies that prevail in the
channel, but principally to a rock that rises in the narrowest
part of it, and is not visible except at ebb. The whole com-
merce of the Archipelago is carried on from this port, in four
or five ships that come here nnnually from Peru, or from the
ports on the rontineut of Chili. This traffic is entirely con-
<lucted by bartering the productions of the country for tliose
articles that are brought, money being very scarce in these
islands. Upon the arrival of the ships, the Cabildo, or ma-
gistrate of Ca-tio, has the privilege of sending two deputies
to tax the goods brought in them, and make an estimate of
their prices, which is to regulate the sale. This trade, by flic
royal grant, is not subjected to tl.'c duties th:U are paid in th«
other ports.

• .'.5. .50. S. lor.f^iliiil.- .'^O-?, accordins; io Agiioro';.— E. E.

+ Tho roii-tant r<--idri;is arc not morr than ono hiindnd and tiffy. An
eartli.jiiakc ruinci! t!i<- 1 ily soon afler its foundation, and tht-rr Avorc fe-.«'
ind'.icciuents to rct^ii'.d if. — F.. C j

314

THE ISLANDS OF JUAN FERNANDEZ.

These islands are about cue hundred and thirty leagues
distant from the coast of Chili. They are situated in about
32. 42. degrees of latitude, and 2.07. 32. of longitude. The
island of Fuera is about three miles in length ; the land is very
high, or rather a steep mountain, rising abruptly from the sea,
having no harbours, or station*, where ships may remain
secure, in consequence of the gKeat depth of \v;iter that sur-
rounds it. This island is full of beautiful trees and streams
of good water, according to the information of the fishermen,
■who arc in the habit of landing there. The ii.;aud of Terra is
eleven or twelve miles long by three broad. The land is pria-
cipally niountainous, broken, and intersected by ravines,
caused by the frequent torrents and streams which descend
from the niou:itains. It abounds with excellent wood, among
which are the sandal, tlie yellow wood, and the chonla, a spe-
cies of t!ie palm, which produces a fruit that is far from un-
pleasant; the wood of (he trunk, wliich is hoHow like a reed,
becoiiies of a beautiful black, and is nearly as iiard as iron.
Lord Anson represents this island as a terrestrial paradise,
but in rcvility its soil is infested with worms that destroy every
thing. Tlie coast abounds with lobsters, cod, and otiicr fish,
and uiih aquatic animals, in wiiich its tiade, v.hich is very
co!!si(k:ab!(", consists. This i■^land v.as first discovered by
Ju;ui Feiiumdez, from whom it rcceivctl its name, and who
formed a settlement there, and lirouglit over iVom the conti-
nent some goafs that multiplied to an astonisliini: (iegree. After
Jiis deatli it was dserted, in which slate it continued for soiwc
lij)ie ; but the Spaniards perceiving of wirat importance to
t'leui the possession of these islands had become, in 17.)0
made a permanent establishment in that of Terra, and settled
the port called Juan Fernautiez, on tlie south-west coast. Tiie
presidjiitof Chili ajipoints its governor, who is usually one of
the conimanders upon the Araucaniau frontier. Besides the

Jib

jioii uf Juan ForiKuulcz, there is anolhcr, lyn^ towards tlir
Mjutli, called the Eiii;lisli harbour, iVoni the circuiu.staticc ol"
Lonl Alison's squadron having anchored there ; but it is in-
secure, being too much exposed to the winds.

CUJO.

Although Cujo is not strictly within the limits of Chili,
yet as it is dependant upon the presidency of thiit kingdom, it
will not be improper to take a brief notice of it in this account.
It is bounded on the north l)y Tucunian, on the east by the
Panipas, or deserts of Buenos Ayres, on the sontli by Pata-
gonia, and on the wevt by the Andes, which sej>arate it from
Clii'i. It> length from east to west is. one hundred and eleven
leagues, and hs breadtii, from north to soulli, about one hun-
dred and ten, beini; eomprelicuded btiween tlie 20(h and
3jth degrees of latilmie. In its teniperature, as well as in
the greater part of its jiroductions, tlii.s pro\ince diliers mate-
rially rrom (uili. Tiie winfer, allhoti^li it is iljcre tb,e d\y
sea>0'i, is \eiv cf)Ui ; in ihc ,^u:iin!' r tiie he;;! is exrc-ibivc as
well duiiui: tiie iiiuli! as t;;e d.iy, ai.;i .storuis of t]iuii(iir and
hall are verv ficqiu iit. In ihe western p.irt of li-.o ])V(.viiicc
tlie^e slOiUj^ c>4nmo,.ly rise and di-per;,e in the s})ace of iiulf
an liuuv, and the lit at oi the sun, bursliiig uilh increased
radiance from tiie cluud-, in a !'.;\v minntes dries up the mois-
tiire. In conse<pieiice of tiiis sndueri ex.-jicoaiion, the hmd, if
not watered by artdiciai means, becomes arid, and uill bear
neither grass nor trees, bnl\\hea irrigated bv canals, it pro-
duces almost every \egciaijie in astoni^!:illg abuiHiance. Tiie
fruits ami gr.iins ol' Euro|ie ti;;i\e there extrer.iely well, and
fome to matnrilv a nnnilh earlier th^.n in Ciiiiij ami tiie Viiius
are rich and et an i-vcelUnt bi,iiy.

This provi.ice is intersected bv lhre<' rivers from the Aiule^,
that ot' St. Jnun, and tliose of Mt-iifio/a ai.d Tiiimjan. 'i he
two lirst receive tlu'ir i.anie^ tioni hie cities tluit they lave, and
after a course cf Irom i\\ci:(_N-live lo Ihiity kagucs become

Si6

stationary, and form the celebrate*! lakes of Guanaaaciic,
which extend raore than firty leagues from north to south •
and, at length, through a channel that receives the river Tu-
najau, lose themselves in the Pampas. These lakes abound
with excellent trout and king- fish, and all the salt that is used
in Cujo is obtained from them. The eastern part of this pro-
vince, called la Punta, presents an appearance entirely dif-
ferent from the rest, and is watered by the rivers Contara and
Quinto, and by «everal other streams. The plains are covered
with beautiful trees, and the herbage grows to such a height,
as in many places to conceal the horses ; but thunder storms
are more violent than in any other part of Cujo, and continue
for hours accompanied with immoderate rain.

Of the trees of Cujo, one of the most remarkable is that
called Palma, from its resembling, in its branches and fruit,
the palm of Chili ; it differs, however, in its height, which
never exceeds eighteen feet, and in the manner of putting
forth its bsanches, which are so near the ground as to prevent
the trunk from being seen. Its leaves are hard, and terminate
in a point as sharp as that of a sword. TJie l^ruit, though si-
milar in appearance to the cocoa-nut, contains no kernel or
substance that is edible, but merely a few round hard seeds.
The most singular part of this tree is the sleni, or trunk, which
is very large. The outer bark is blackish, and is easily de-
tached; Ibis is siircocdcd by fi\c or six interior layers, of so
l>erfecl a texture thai thiy apjxar as if ^\roug!il in a loom.
The fir-l is of a yoiluuish colour, aud of t!u' ((insistency of
sailcloth; the otiiers regui.iriy dei leas*? in thi(;l,nes>, and be-
«:omc gradually whiter to the, inuermo=;t, which is as fine and
wl.ite as ci.n.hr'ic, but of a looser t«^\ture. The thread oi
Mitsc cloths id strong and flexible, but not so soft to the toucli
as that of flax. Cujo also contains great (piantities of the
OpuTitia, a species of Cactus that furuislics the cochineal. Th»*
iiatives have a practice of stringing tlios(> insects upon a thread
Tvith a ne«(ile, which conimuuirales to tlum a blacki-h fii\t.

317

Tliis plant produces a woolly Iruit, of the size of a peach, of
a glutinous substaiir e, containing a great quantity of seeds. It
is sweet and well flavoured, and is easily preserved by catting
it into slices, and drying them in the sun. The tree that pro-
duces ll'.e Greek or Turkey bean, is coniraon throughout the
province ; it is of four kinds, two of which are good eating ; o£
the others, one is used as provender for horses, and the other
in making i^ik. Among the plants of Cujo is one that is very
iinguiar; it is called tlie Jlower of the air, from its having no
root, nor ever being fixed to {lie earlh. Its native situation is
an arid rock, or a dry tree, around which it entwines itself.
Tills plant consists of a single shoot, resembling the stock of
the gillyflower, but its leaves are krger and thicker, and so
hard that the.y seem to tlie touch like wood. Each shoot, or
stalk, produces two or throe white tran-parent flowers, in size
and shape resembling the lily ; they are full as odoriferous as
that flower, and nuiv be ineserved fresh for more than two
rnoiitlis on their stalks, aud for several days when jJucked off.
But the most woiuh rfiil property of this plant is, that it may
be transpoiled \^itlioul ;L!iy diilkr.Ity for upward of three hun-
dred miles, and will produte flfjv.eis annually if only sus-
pended uiHii a i;ail.

Tills province abounds with birds, among which are two
parrots that are different from thos:..> of Chili. The first is a
little less than the turtle dove, and has a green back and
whitish belly; the other, called pcriquito, is rather larger. Its
plumage is a dark green, txcep'i the ht'ad, wiiieii is Llack, and
a mixture of red upon tiie back, 'iiie partridges -ue ot two
kinds. The llrst, calknl 7nurtinctc:i, is of iiie size of a domestic
fowl, has a beautiful tuft upot: ii^ Iivad, and is adorntd wilh
handsome plumes of various ecsoVi's; its llesli is verv deliiuie,
and. its egg^ are green. The toinmon jii'.itridge is in givat
uL'\indanee, and so taine tlr,;: a iir.in wil'i a rce;!, Jo wliiiJ! a
siiaic is fi'Unc't!, will take tuc;;;' ')r ll'ir!'. ( f llrn) in a i'cw
houis. 'ine aHanil, or uias-;.';!, so ealicd i'roai th'.- mani;i.r of

318

Constructing: its linLitiUioii, h a snufT-coloureJ Mril, of the size
of a thnisii ; before it begins to build, it mixes clay very care-
fully with feathers and j)iec<!s of straw ; thoj dividing it into
little balls, carries them in its chws anfl bill to its mate, who
first foriiis tlie bottoiu npori the trunk of a tree, into a circle
of eight or nine inches in diameter, making it perfectly smooth ;
upon this it raises a ivali abDut a iiand's breadth in lieight,
leaving a small aperture lo go in at; it next proceeds to hiy a
second floor, which contains the nest, and also an opening
communicating with the lower room ; when this is completed,
it continues tiie surrounding wall to the same height as the
first, and covers the whole with a handsome arcli. This edi-
fice becomes, when dry, so iirm as to resist the most violent
winds and rain. In the northern parts of this province is a
species of pheasant called chunna, which is as large as a hen,
and of an ash colour; the ilesh is as delicate as that of tJie
European pheasant. This bird is easily domesticated, and
performs in houses the otlice of a cut, freeing them from mice,
w hich it eats very readily ; but it is kept by few, on account of
its disagreeable note, and a mischievous propensity of carrying
away in its beak and concealing whatever it fmds. Of turtle
doves, besides the common species, there is one that is not
larger than a sparrow. Ostriches are conmion, and bees arc
found every where, particidarly in t!ie eastern plain?, and pro-
duce excellent honey. Grassiioppers appear tiiere occasioiiaily,
in such numbers that tiioy rover many railc3 of country, and
destroy every green thing that Ihey meet with; these arc
usually three inches in icnglh, but tiiey are s.unetinies to be
seen as large as a pilciiard, and from seven to eiglit inches
long.

There are many animals in Cr.jo tliift arc not to !)c found in
Chili, as tigers, bonrs, stag*, the land tortr.ivc, ti-e viper.
Iguana, and several dliie-s. 'j'lie tigcrsi;;re fcroriou^, like those
of Africa, and as large as an ass, i)rit v.ith sji'^itcr logs; liic
skin is mottled with white, yellow, an<l ])i,M.k. 'i'hc inha-

SID

nitaiits Ivill llioni Nvitli laiircs of five or six foct in leii.ijifi
aimod willi a sliarp iron. Tlit' nutiiod they aiioj)t is for two
persons to be ia readiness, wliile a tiiiid, who lias llie bpear,
provokes the ti^'er, wlio rushes upon him with incoiiceivi'.hic
fury, and inii)aleii himstlf upon the \v(;ipon, wliich tijc hunter
keeps eoustanlly directed tovart'i* him, \vh(!n the two olinTs
come up and dispatch him. Tlie I^\ihiki is an animal of the
lizard iuiid, about three feet in length ; the colour is hiackisli,
the CNes round, and the flesh wliile and tender. It feeds upon
grass and wild fruits. The country people, \\lio cat it, think
its llesh far preferable to that oi" a chicken.

In the northern parts of this province are mines of n;oId and
coj)per, but they are not worked, owing to the indolence of
the iiihaliitants. Thvre are also rich mines of lead, vitriol,
sulj)hnr, salt, coal, gypsum, and talc. The mountains ia the
iicighbourliooci of Juan are wholly composed of strata of white
maible, from fne to si\ teet in length, and from six to seven
inciifs I'aick, v.bich are reguhuiy cut and polished by the hand
ofNaliire. 'I'lie inhabitants make from it a beautiful lime,
and employ it in building bridges over their canals. Between
the cities of iMendozaand La Pur.ta, upon a low range of hills,
is a large stone pillar, one hundred and tifty feet high, and
twelve feel in diameter. It is called the giant, and contains
certain marks or inscriptions, resembling Chinese characters.
Near the Diamond river is also another stone, containing some
i:ia)ks, which appear to be ciphers or characters, and the im-
pression of a man's feet, with the figures of several animals.
The Spaniards call it the stone of St. Thomas, from an ac-
count whicli they pretend the first settlers received from the
Indian-^, tiiat a white man, wllh a long beard, formerly
preiuhed to tiicir ancestors a ncv religion from that stone, and,
a- a p.rucf of its sanctity, left u])on it tiie in7pres?ion ot" his feet,
arid the figures of the animals that came to hear him. Tfiii
man 1iie_\ biipj)0::e to have been St. Thomas, from a traiition
<jt liii Laving pleached in America.
3

320

Tlie aboriginal inhabitants of Cujo, of whom tliere are at
present but a few remaining, are called Guarpes, they are
tJiin, brown, and of a lofty stature, and speak a ditl'erent lan-
guage from the Chilians. The Peruvians were the first who
conquered these people, after having possessed themselves of
the northern provinces of Chili. On the road over the Andes,
from Cujo to Chili, are still to be seen some small stone edi-
fices, erected for the accommodation of the otlicers and mes-
sengers of that empire. The first Spaniards who entered this
province were commanded by Francis Aguirre, who was sent
from Chili by Valdivia, and who quitted it on learning the
death of that general. In the year 1560, Don Garcia di
Mendoza sent thither Pedro Castillo, who subdued the
Guarpes, and founded the ritics of St. Juan and Mendoza.

Mendoza, the capital, is situated on a plain at the foot of the
Andes, in 33 degrees 19 minutes south latitude, and in 308.
31. west longitude. The number of its inhabitants is estimated
at six thousand. Besides the parish church, it contains a col-
lege which belonged to the Jesuits, convents of the orders of
.St. Francis, St. Dominick, St. Augustine, and the Mercedarii.
This city carries on a considerable commerce in wine and
fruits uitii Buenos Ayres ; and its population is continually in-
creased from its vicinity to the famous silver mine of Uspaliata,
whicli the inhabitants work to great profit.

St, Juan, which is forty-five leagues from Mendoza, is also
situated near the Andes, in 31. 1. degrees ot latitude, and 308.
31. of longitude. It has the same number of inhabitants
cliurches, and con\ents as Mendoza, antl trades witii Buenos
Ayres, in brandy, fruits, and Vicugna skins. Tiie pojne-
granates of its vicinity are greatly esteemed in Chili, for their
size and sweetness. Tiiis city is governed by a Ci.bildo, and a
Lieutenant of the Protect, or Corregidor of f>lenilo;?a.

In the year 151)6, the small city of La Punta, or St. Lodo-
vico ot LdyoIo, was founded in tlic eastern part of Cujo ; k
ri<; rived its n'ame liom Don Martin Loyolo, at that time go-

321

vernor of Chili, and is situated ia 33. 47. degrees of latitude,

and in 311. 32. of longitude, at the distance of about 62 leagues

from Mendoza. Notwithstanding it is the thoroughfare of all

the commerce between Chili, Cujo, and Buenos Ayres, it is a

miserable place, and the inhabitants scarcely amount to two

hiuidred. It has a parish church, one that belonged to the

Jesuits, and a convent of Dominicans, The civil and military

government of this city, as well as of its jurisdiction, which is

very extensive and populous, is administered by a Lieutenant

or Vicar of the Corregidor of Mendoza. Besides these cities,

Cujo contains the towns of Jachal, Vallofertil, Mogua, Coro-

corto, Leonsito, Calingarta, and Pismanta, but these do not

merit particular attention.

The Patagonians, who border upon Chili, and of whose
gigantic stature so much has been written in Europe, from the
most accurate information, differ not materially in this respect
from other men. The Pojas, who form one of their tribes,
live under the government of several petty princes, indepen-
dent of each other. These people acknowledge the existence
of a Supreme Being, and believe in the immortality of the
soul. A singular kuid of polygamy prevails among them, the
women being permitted by their laws to have several hus-
bands. As to the Cesari, the supposed neighbours of the Chi-
lians, of wluini surh wonderful stories are told, they are merely
an imaginary people, who have no existence but in the fancy
of those who take a pleasure in the marvellous.

END OF VOL. 1.

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6. TRAVELS to DISCOVER the SOURCE of tlie NILE,
in the years \76s, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772, and 1773.
By Janes Bruce, of Kinnaird, Esq. F.R.S. The '.'d Edit,
corrected and enlarged. To which is prefixed, a Life of the
Author, handsomely printed in 7 vols. 8vo. with a vohnne ot
Copper-plates in 4to. 4l. I6-,. in Boards. A few Copies are
printeil in royal 8vo. with first Impressions of tJie Plates. Price
7I. 7s. in Boards,

JSooks printed for Longman, Hurst, Rees, and Orme.

7. The SCENEPtY. ANTIQUITIES, and BIOGRAPHY
of SO'Js'H WALES, t'ro a Materials collected during Two
Excursions in the Y< ar 1803. B} Benjamin Heath Malkin,
Esq. M \. F.S.A. In oi.e vol. 4to. illustrated with Views,
drawn and oigraved by La, orie, and a Map of the Conntrj'.
2l. 12s 6'd. Bocirdi. A few Copies may be had with the Views
finely coloured by Laportt . Price 41. 4s. in Boards. — Also a
2d Edit. Hi 2 \oi.i. 8v.!. with considerable Additions, and Two
Engravings, by Ldiidseer and Middiman. Price ll. Is. in
Boards.

" Mr. Malki.i displays a mastery of style, and is an instruc-
tive conipanion ; we huve no hesitation in assigning him a
place in ilu- tiist class of Tourists." M. Rev. — " This is one
of the most elaborate, and indeed satisfactory accounts of a
tour through ^outh >\a!es, that has yet appeared." — Brit.
Crlt.

8. The TOrC^Gr^.APHY of TROY, and ITS VICINITY,
illustrated and expiaioec! !»\ L»ra>Mngs and Descriptions. De-
dicated, by >!ermis~ion, to hei Grace the Ducliess of Devon-
shire. By vMlliam G.^i, Esq. of .fesus College, M.A. F.R.S.
F.A.S, an(' lale Felliiw of Euianuci College, Cambridge. In
Foiio, Fiice lOl. 10s. iij Boa'ds. In the Work are given
fony-'liMe coloured Plates, taken from accurate Drawings,
n.ade on the Spot, by tlie Author, and chiefly engraved by
^ir. Med'ai;.:!. The Vv'ork is tlesigned to afibrd an Oppor-
tunity to si!ri> as liiive not visited the Country of forming their
own opi;;i. !is of tlic Topographv of Homer.

9. Tde GEOGRAPHY ana ANTIQUITIES of ITHACA,
cl':d rated, bv ptrniission, to the Kimr. By William Gell, Esq.
M A. F.R.S.'F.S a. And Member of the" Society of Diletanti.
Ill one vol. 4to. illustrated by Eiigravi: gs. Price 2l. J 2s, 6'd.
in Butiiiis.

10 A DESCRIPTION of LATIUM; or. La Campagna
Di KoMA. In one vol. demy 4to. illustrated by Etchings
by the Author, and a Map. ll. lis. bd. in Boards. This
Description is intended to give an Idea of the Cities, Towns,
and Villages, in the Neighbourhood of Rome ; of the Paint-
ings, Scu:j)tures, and Vestiges of Antiquity which they contain,
as well as of the picturesque Scenery which surrounds
tiiem.

" ll is not our fortune often to meet with a volume where
more infoj ination and entertainment are combined. The work
is confidently, and, we believe, rightly attributed to a lady al-
ready celebrated as a writer, the accoropiished Cornelia Kuight."
•^Brit. Crit.

Printed by i, D, Dewick,

4<>, Baruiean.

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

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