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TM- 29
GEOMORPHOLOGY and SEDIMENTS
of the
NEARSHORE CONTINENTAL SHELF
MIAMI to PALM BEACH , FLORIDA

TECHNICAL MEMORANDUM NO. 29
NOVEMBER 1969

U. S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS |
COASTAL ENGINEERING
RESEARCH CENTER

This document has been approved for public release and sale;
its distribution is unlimited .

Reprint or re-publication of any of this material shall
give appropriate credit to the U. S. Army Coastal Engineering
Research Center.

Limited free distribution of this publication within the
United States is made by the U. S. Army Coastal Engineering
Research Center, 5201 Little Falls Road, N. W., Washington,
D, Cy ZOOlG’

The findings in this report are not to be construed as an
official Department of the Army position unless so designated
by other authorized documents.

GEOMORPHOLOGY ‘and SEDIMENTS
Of the

“NEARSHORE CONTINENTAL SHELE/

MIAMI to PALM BEACH , FLORIDA.

by
David B. Duane /
Edward P. Meisburger

TECHNICAL MEMORANDUM NO. 29
NOVEMBER 1969

U. S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS
COASTAL ENGINEERING
RESEARCH CENTER

This document has been approved for public release and sale;
its distribution is unlimited .

Ae MOAT

At i ar) see

‘sou a hive

| ‘ansamones Le amo gi e ao
visage AS
ARTHAS H>

oAw “yelos ‘oe ouoninn sito “eh bende pare wo nama |
a ee molt Ay oe

ABS TRACT

The Continental Shelf bordering southeastern Florida between Palm
Beach and Miami was surveyed by the U. S. Army Coastal Engineering Research
Center to locate and evaluate sand deposits potentially usable for shore
protection and restoration projects. Survey data covered that portion of
the Continental Shelf between 15- and 100-foot depths, and consisted of
seismic reflection profiles and sediment cores of the sea floor and shallow
subbottom strata.

‘South of Boca Raton to Miami, much of the shelf is essentially rocky
with a thin sediment veneer. Relatively thick deposits of sediment have
accumulated locally in troughs on the shelf surface formed between low
reef-like ridges lying parallel to shore. Shelf sediments south of Boca
Raton consist almost entirely of sand-size calcareous skeletal fragments.

North of Boca Raton to Palm Beach, most of the shelf is overlain by
a thick blanket deposit of homogeneous fine-to-medium, gray sand about
half of which consists of quartz particles and the remainder of calcareous
skeletal fragments.

A total volume of 201 million cubic yards of sand-size sediment
occurs on the shelf south of Boca Raton. Although generally suitable for
beach fill in terms of size, degradation of size by abrasion and fragmenta-
tion of the delicate particles may occur in the shore environment. More
than 380 million cubic yards of sand-size sediment lies on the shelf north
of Boca Raton. However, because of its fine size, this sand is not con-
sidered ideally suited for use on local beaches.

In terms of potential as beach sand, sand size sediment from the shelf
bordering southeastern Florida is of marginal quality.

FOREWORD

This report is the first of a series which will describe CERC's Sand
Inventory Program.

David B. Duane, Chief of the Geology Branch and Edward P. Meisburger,
a CERC geologist, prepared the report under the general supervision of
George M. Watts, Chief of the Engineering Development Division. The field
work was done by Alpine Geophysical Associates under contract (DA-08-123-
CIVENG-65-57) to the Jacksonville District, Corps of Engineers.

Cores taken during the sand exploration are stored at the Smithsonian
Oceanographic Sorting Center (SOSC). Microfilms of the seismic profiles,

the 1:80,000 navigational plots, and other ancillary data are stored at
the National Oceanographic Data Center (NODC). Requests for information
relative to those items should be directed to SOSC or NODC.

At the time of publication, Lieutenant Colonel Edward M. Willis
was Director of CERC; Joseph M. Caldwell was Technical Director.

NOTE: Comments on this publication are invited. Discussion will be
published in the next issue of the CERC Bulletin.

This report is published under authority of Public Law 166, 79th
Congress, approved July 31, 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172,
88th Congress, approved November 7, 1963.

CONTENTS

Page
Section I, INMROMUGTION oc 6 oo 0 6 9 6 0 9 0 G0) 6 405 55 5 1
il, Baclercoumncl 6 5 6/6 o 0 0 0 6 5 6 6 695 6 0 5 45 60 0 0 5 1
De S CODECS uewies ts hs), (ino ae MOE RS coe a Uactwc TRL ee inde Peis ey te E 5
Section II. HYDROGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF STUDY AREA ........ .- 8
il, bhycheommeeyasy Gee 5G 0 8 6 0 oo 6 Oyo pe ono) dn OG 8
2, Geollogic SeetiMy os so 615 5 6 6 6 2 6 8 6 oo Bo 86 GS 8
Sect lonely s DUSCUSSEON: so. (2: (ly ere paperanian: okt Weird lier fet rset J.5 0 33
i, Sa@diimence Distienowrei@m aimcl Origin oc=o 565565905509 6 33
2, Semel Recwareuemes o 6 c hee Pace eaters! eo Mela l tae Gets 34
3. Areas Suitable for Offshore Borrow USER be Be erecta 35
ADA S Uris DTmleigtsvar tan TAMA’ is2) a) cay he tCa Ins SiC W R= TaReCL Ue oO iMernpyreMiite! sKovbdteglie 41
Section IY, SUMMARY AND GONGHISIONS . oo so 5 oe 6 oo oe 6 el 41
TIGRE RAO REMC TGR ED Eat tment Bi wey tens). jee caine a Amn eT ideglac teste ci ho Nala ohana ey ace S'S
Appendix A - Exploration Techniques
Appendix B - Core Data and Sediment Description
Appendix C - Granulometric Analyses
Appendix D - Geophysical Data
ILLUSTRATIONS
Table Page
I. Stratigraphic Column for Southeastern Florida ....... - 11
Til, Ril Resiaireeneies sin nS Stenchy heecey ¢ 6 5) b Gots 5G GG oS 36
III. Volumes of Sand Available in Various Morphologic Elements . . 39

Figure Page

it, IRelontel Seclimeme Amalsyagie 6 o oo 6 6 6 66 6» 6 6056 6 6 oO 5
Bo CEsPe Oi TOS MOIWEMETM jORUPE Os telne Giieaies Os Pilowica . . « >» 6
§, Pil@e OF SURVEY teackiimes amc CORES WORTMES so os 4 0 o 5 6 7
A, =“ Pilain) OIE SOurNeasceeiren Milonic SmSlse morpn@Olomy . . 6 « 6 6 0 6 9
5, Average sive adistiillpuciOn OF Smells’ seciimemesS 1. oc 5 5 0 o 6 6 10

6. Schematic profile of southeastern Florida shore and

SINISE TCE NOILOKA anna fale Goo. co 6) co lonoelG 6 “ol Gio 6 © « 14
7. Shelf profiles off southeastern Florida showing subbottom

TCLS CE OMS eS yg ist Iau ah ay) ae eke a wer MERA oe cin et sien ame ee 16
8, PioOromiceomrapns Ge wWyolcall Seceiom A secilmeEneS 5 ss 6 5 6 o 18

9. Photomicrographs of typical skeletal fragments in

SSSELOM BV SECHMSMES oo e/6 696 0 0 5 0 0 6 oo eo ee 19
10. Photomicrographs of typical sediments from Section Bere sapien sy (Me 20
JUL, ‘Myoicail chal Ehenmmeil meseine Seisimle werilecti@m wecord , o 6 « 21
125 BEGhrOels SUPFCS tOQoOmcEa my wim ae Wien paeiGl gree 5 o o 5 o 23

13. Cumulative curves, representative of offshore sediments
IW PSE CE DOM Arce Va meee) 1s) eoriha tNsta went ca Reranch nS. sate vee mesa eae 26

14. Cumulative curves, representative of offshore sediments
ANAS CCE VON Bis ye Meck csp kod oe css) She) POMC RNP RMN) (0) Base ione eels <a 27

LS> BOCCOM moan@Ol@ssy aia tele Whigmal grenGl a@A 3 5 a 0 o oo oo 29

16. Isopachous map of sediment thickness over the bedrock
SUISSE ain wae Whe wrencl euPe2. 5 5 5 5 6 6 6 oo Oo 30

17. Median diameter of beach and nearshore and offshore
Samples vimi sehe? Sieudiy rane) se Sui Tye est Uren i, ges Lue ttn se 32

18. Limits of Study by OSE for Broward County Erosion Control

GOMMINEESES Se aay ee peck ee ate a tray vom A st re ctor tem ea 37
IY, AREAS MOS SuEltalole tore Sain OIIEOW 2 6 5 56 6 oo 6 oo oe 40
20, PIMOLOCPEIINS Cie wHyoLEZl Weeeln imeeeriAll am Secelon A 2s 6 6 6 42
Zils WNCOKOReyINS Cie Wyjoleel lOSeleln wereereieil sin S@eict@m 1B .« ¢ ooo 45

Section I. INTRODUCTION
1. Background

Ocean beaches and dunes constitute a vital buffer zone between
the sea and coastal areas and provide at the same time much needed recrea-
tional areas for the public. Neglect of the ocean beaches can result, and
indeed often has resulted, in disastrous consequences either through long-
term progressive erosion or through sudden overwhelming of coastal lands
by storm waves and surges.

Under authority of Federal Laws the U. S. Army Corps of Engineers
is directly involved in the study of beach erosion and storm protection
problems. Through its various division and district offices and research
facilities, the Corps conducts basic studies in coastal phenomena and
coastal engineering techniques, develops plans of improvement for specific
shoreline areas, designs protective structures, and in some instances,
undertakes the project construction. Types of shore protection structures
and methods, means of obtaining design criteria, and planning analysis
are presented in Technical Report No. 4 (1966) of the Coastal Engineering
Research Center (CERC). As indicated in Technical Report No. 4, the con-
struction, improvement, and maintenance of beaches through the artificial
placement (nourishment) of sand on the shore is one of several protection
methods. This technique has gained prominence in coastal engineering
largely as a result of the successful program initiated at Santa Barbara,
Calaktorniape ne O58 a (Hallo S2)) er

Where the specified plan of improvement involves shore restoration
and periodic nourishment, large volumes of sand fill may be involved. In
recent years it has become increasingly difficult to obtain suitable sand
from lagoonal or inland sources in sufficient quantities and at an economi-
cal cost for beach fill purposes. This is due in part to increased land
value, diminution and depletion of previously used nearby sources,and added
cost of transporting sand from areas increasingly remote. Material com-
posing the bottom and subbottom of estuaries, lagoons, and bays, in many
instances is too fine-grained and not suitable for long-term protection,
because the fines are immediately winnowed out and removed. While the loss
of some fines is inevitable as the new beach sediment seeks equilibrium
with its environment, it is possible to estimate the stability of the beach
fill and therefore keep the loss to a minimum through selection of the most
suitable fill material (Krumbein and James, 1965). Regardless of suitabil-
ity of material in shallow back bay areas, the potential ecological damage
consequent to dredging in shallow back bay areas made exploitation of these
sources highly undesirable.

The problem of locating suitable and economical sand supply led the
Corps to a search for new unexploited sand supplies. The search focused
offshore with the intent to explore and inventory deposits suitable for
future fill requirements, and subsequently to develop and refine techniques
for transferring offshore sand to the beach. The exploration program is
conducted through the Corps of Engineers' Coastal Engineering Research
Center. Referred to as the Sand Inventory Program, it started in 1964 with

*Refers to LITERATURE CITED.

the purpose of finding the extent and characteristics of sand deposits
on the nearshore Continental Shelf, in water depths of 15-100 feet. An
initial phase in developing techniques for transferring offshore sand to
the beach is described by Mauriello (1967).

The exploration phase of the program uses seismic reflection profil-
ing supplemented by cores of the marine bottom. Additional supporting
data for the studies are obtained from USC&GS hydrographic boat sheets
and published scientific literature.

Survey tracklines were laid out by the CERC Geology Branch staff

in either of two line patterns: grid and reconnaissance lines. A grid
pattern (line spacing at approximately one statute mile intervals) was
used to cover areas where a more detailed development of bottom and sub-
bottom conditions were desired. Reconnaissance lines are one or several
continuous zigzag lines followed to explore areas between grids and to
provide a means of correlating sonic reflection horizons between grids.
Reconnaissance lines provide sufficient information to reveal the general
morphologic and geologic aspect of the area covered and to identify the
most promising places for additional data collection.

Core sites were selected on the basis of a continuing review of the
seismic profiles as they became available throughout the course of survey
operations. This procedure allowed selection on the best information
available while permitting the contractor to complete coring operations
in one area before moving his base to the next area. Fundamentals of
planning and field techniques, i.e., sonic profiling, coring, and posi-
tioning, utilized in the conduct of CERC sand inventory programs are
detailed in Appendix A.

Sediment cores taken during the field operation for the Florida
Sand Inventory Program were examined megascopically aboard the vessel
by the contractor, capped and shipped to CERC for further analysis.

Samples for laboratory processing were removed from the cores by
drilling through the plastic liner at selected sampling intervals and
withdrawing a 60- to 80-gram sample. All cores were sampled at top and
bottom; additional samples were withdrawn at other intervals as needed
to reflect vertical changes in grain size and lithology within the core.

Samples were air- or oven-dried, broken into component parts if
necessary, and split to 8- to 10-gram portions. The portion selected for
Size analysis was rinsed in distilled water until a silver nitrate test
for cKepride was negative. Size analyses of the majority of samples were
conducted on a Rapid Sediment Analyzer (RSA). The RSA at CERC, similar
to those described by Zeigler (1960) and Schlee (1966), is used to
determine the grain size distributional characteristics of. sediment,
especially grains in the size-range from 62 to 2,000 microns, as they
settle through a l-meter column of water. Coupled to a digital voltmeter
and a card punch, pressure data from the RSA is recorded directly on
punched cards and on a strip-chart (Figure 1). By means of a computer

Figure 1. Rapid Sediment Analyzer. Settling tube and
pressure tube are shown at left of photo; connecting
tubes supply and drain water. At right is console
housing digital voltmeter with timing and sampling
circuitry; atop console is analog strip chart record.
for visual recording of pressure-time decay curve.

In center is card punch for direct punching of
data as sediment falls through metering column.

program which relates actual pressure and time decay to equivalent fall
diameter, statistical parameters descriptive of the sediment size-
distribution curve are calculated. An analogous computer program for
sieve data computes the same granulometric parameters which are: median
and mean diameter (central tendency); standard deviation (dispersion) ;
skewness (asymmetry); and kurtosis (peakedness). These parameters are
shown symbolically below:

MEAN STANDARD DEVIATION
pe n 5g =v n i
Xp = > XG ER »: (X; -X) fi
i=1 1=1
al n
SKEWNESS KURTOSIS
n 3 a ofl
m=S Ceo By = Cae a
i=] =I
oO of

f; = frequency by weight of grains present in interval.
n = number of sample classes.

X; = diameter of midpoint of sample interval, in phi units.
Xg = mean particle diameter expressed in phi units.

Sy = standard deviation expressed in phi units.

a, = skewness.

a5 = kurtosis.

No allowance is yet made for the effect of sample mass on the fall
diameter. Median diameter is also computed. While it is recognized that
that measure of central tendency is not as sensitive as the mean, median
is used extensively in this paper to facilitate comparison with earlier
studies and available published data where median is also cited. Never-
theless, all samples analyzed by and for CERC in this Florida program
and listed in Appendix B show mean as well as median values.

Certain samples were also processed in the laboratory for determina-
tion of the acid-soluble content. Visual examination of the samples shows
that for south Florida shelf sediments the acid-soluble content is almost
entirely calcium carbonate skeletal material. Weight percentage of acid-
soluble constituents was determined by adding a dilute solution of hydro-
chloric acid to a carefully dried and weighed sediment sample of 10 to 20
grams. Acid was added until all physical evidence of reaction had ceased.
Acid was then decanted, the residue thoroughly washed in distilled water,
dried, and weighed. The soluble content was calculated as the percent, by
weight, of the total sample lost to acid solution.

Visual classification of sediments in the laboratory was based on
examination of samples under a binocular microscope and point counts of
constituent particles of representative samples. Additional comments
pertaining to sediment description are presented in Appendix C.

Determination of sand volumes was made by planimetering areas of
accumulation depicted on the isopachous map (Figure 16). The data were

consequently applied to the prismoidal formula:

V=1/6H (So + 4S) + S5)

where
V = Volume
H = Height
Sg and S, cross sectional areas of upper and lower bases,
respectively.
S} = cross sectional area of the midsection.
2. Scope

Field work off the Florida east coast from Fernandina Beach south
to Miami was accomplished in 1965 by Alpine Geophysical Associates, Inc.
of Norwood, New Jersey, under contract to the Jacksonville District, Corps
of Engineers. Funding and technical supervision of the contract, includ-
ing layout of survey lines and selection of coring sites was provided by
the Coastal Engineering Research Center with administrative support from
the Jacksonville District office.

The area under study and reported in this document lies on that part
of the Atlantic Continental Shelf which borders the southeastern coast of
Florida between 25°40' N (Miami) and 26°48' N (Palm Beach) (Figure 2).
Continuous seismic profiles and cores were obtained over the multiple reef
area in the south and through a transition zone to the northern limit of
the study area. The shelf region under study, comprising 141 square miles
in area, was covered by 176 statute miles of geophysical survey in water
depths ranging from 15 feet to 350 feet. The seismic profiles were supple-
mented by 31 three-inch 1.D. cores ranging in length from 1.5 to 11 feet.
Tracklines and core locations are shown on Figure 3.

Reports dealing with other sections of the Florida east coast based
upon the 1965 data collection program will be published in due course.

LOY Wiltz
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ATLANTIC
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Palm Beach

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STUDY AREA

NORTHWEST

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Boca Raton

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PROVIDENCE

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Fort Lauderdale

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Broword County

Dade County

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Chart of the northern part of the Straits of Florida.

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EXPLANATION
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Navigation Fix
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© Beach Sample

N-S Scale in Yards
5000 ° 5000 10000
E-W Scale in Yards

2000 1000 t) 2000 4000

Figure 3. Plot of survey tracklines and core borings. Note change
in horizontal scale which was enlarged to facilitate display.

Section II. HYDROGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF STUDY AREA
1. Hydrography

The northern Straits of Florida is a passage through which the
Gulf Stream passes northward into the Atlantic Ocean. Flanking the
Straits to the east is the Great Bahama Bank surmounted by the cays and
islands of the Bahama Group; westward lies the mainland of Southeastern
Florida (Figure 2).

The thalweg of the passage is broad and lies in the central part of
the northern straits. The rise of the east side of the ''valley'' toward
the Bahama Banks is relatively steep with slopes averaging 9 percent;
overall the western slope of the Florida Strait is more gentle than the
eastern with slopes averaging 4 to 8 percent. In the area of study the
western slope is interrupted by a broad terrace at depths from about 720
to 1,200 feet (Siegel, 1959; Hurley, 1962). Shoreward of this terrace
the slope again steepens and rises to the shelf which extends from
approximately 70-foot depths to shore. The seaward edge of this near-
shore shelf is marked by a drowned reef-like feature with an irregular
crest which generally lies at 40- to 55-foot depths.

South of approximately 26°20' N the surface of this shelf rises
from the outermost reef to shore in a series of step-like linear flats
separated by rocky irregular slopes and ridges. North of 26°20' N, the
step-like character of the topography gives way to a more or less con-
stant sediment slope extending from shore to near the outer reef line
(Figure 4).

Sediments on the shelf can be divided roughly into two distinct
types. Southward of 26°20' N the dominant sediments are white to gray
calcareous skeletal sands and gravel (Figure 5). The acid-soluble con-
tent of this sediment is generally over 80 percent. North of 26°20' N to
the limits of this study area the dominant sediment type is a homogeneous
fine to medium-grained gray sand composed of about 60 percent clear sub-
angular and subrounded quartz grains and 40 percent brown, gray, or black
calcareous skeletal fragments (Figure 5).

2. Geologic Setting
a. Stratigraphy and Geologic History

Strata cropping out or present in the shallow subsurface of
southeastern Florida are summarized in the stratigraphic column of Table
Te. Along most of the east coast of Florida, rocks of the Pleistocene
Anastasia Formation form the main coastal bedrock outcrop (Cooke, 1945).
Locally, the Anastasia Formation is exposed in low cuts and benches
along the shore. A submerged rocky platform bordering the shore in
many places is probably formed on the Anastasia Formation.

LAKE WORTH

HALLANDALE

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5000 (0)

2000 1000 ()

EXPLANATION

Shoreline
Shoreface
Reef Lines
Flats
Sediment Slope

N-S Scale in Yards

_ 5000 10000

E-W Scale in Yards

2000 4000

Figure 4. Plan of southeastern Florida shelf morphology.

Millimeters
3.00 250 200 1.50

V.crs.s
Crs. S.

DASHED LINE
4 % crs.S.

TH OF 26° 20°

=20 15 “SOWS05 “ONC Ion IS T20 VAST So) Ss" Go
Phi Units-

COARSE SAND | MEDIUM SAND | FINE SAND [VERY FINE SAND

Figure 5. Average size distribution of shelf sediments. Note the
difference in grain size and the concomittant difference
in carbonate (shell) content.

Percent Coarser

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Although the classic aspect of the Anastasia Formation is that of a
coquina, wells penetrating presumed Anastasia strata have encountered a
complex series of interbedded limestones, calcareous sandstones, quartz
sands and shell beds. Schroeder (et al, 1954) reports the formation has
a thickness of 230 feet near the shore in Palm Beach County. To the
south, in Dade and Broward Counties, strata identified as the Anastasia
Formation reach a thickness of 120 feet under the coastal ridge.

Overlying the Anastasia along the coast are quartzose sands of late
Pleistocene Pamlico age~and Holocene (modern) beach and dune sediments.
Near the Palm Beach-Broward County line the upper part of the Anastasia
Formation undergoes a facies change and is recognized as the Miami Oolite
which is the dominant stratigraphic unit cropping out on the southeastern
tip of Florida. In this same region, Schroeder (et al, 1958) noted sev-
eral wells which indicated that the lower part of the Anastasia Formation
merged into or contained presumed elements of the Key Largo Limestone, a
Pleistocene reef complex of considerable prominence in the northern
Florida Keys (Hoffmeister and Multer, 1968).

Hoffmeister (et al, 1967) found the Miami Oolite to be clearly divis-
ible into an upper oolitic facies overlying a lower facies characterized
by extensive masses of colonial bryzoa. This bryzoan unit averages about
10 feet thick in the coastal area and contains a large number of bryzoan
colonies up to 1 foot in diameter mixed with oolites, pellets and skeletal
sand. The upper or oolitic facies reaches a thickness of approximately
30 feet under the coastal ridge. Hoffmeister proposed a redefinition
of these units as the Miami Formation in recognition of the distinct
importance of the lower unit.

Schroeder (et al, 1954) determined. a thickness of possibly 100 feet
of Caloosahatchee sediments locally underlying the Anastasia in Palm Beach
County. The Caloosahatchee is mainly shelly sand, sandy shell marl, with
minor amounts of limestone and sandstone.

Underlying the Caloosahatchee marl where present (and elsewhere the
Anastasia Formation) along an uncomformable contact is the Tamiami Forma-
tion which was redefined by Parker (1951) to include all upper Miocene
material in southern Florida. The thickness of this formation ranges
from about 70 to 100 feet in the study area, and is composed of beds and
lenses of sandstone, limestone, sand, and silty shell marls (Cooke, 1945;
Schroeder, et al, 1954; Schroeder, et al, 1958).

Where these formations crop out or become exposed as the result of
engineering works, they contribute sediment to the Holocene dunes, beach
and offshore zone. However, the extent to which these formations now
contribute sediment as a result of submarine outcrops is not definitely
known. Locally, the presence of shell material in the littoral zone has
been related to nearby exposures of coquina along the shore or nearshore
bottom (Fineran, 1938); (Martens, 1931). Rusnak (et al, 1966) concluded

that old shell material derived from coquina exposures may represent

20 to 60 percent of the carbonate material in east Florida beach sands.
The remaining shell material is derived from modern biota and was found
to be highest near inlets, where the environment favors large organic
populations.

Using deepwater seismic profiles off northeastern Florida, Emery
and Zarudski (1967) made correlations of onshore borings and wells with
offshore deep borings at the series level. The deep borings were obtained
under the Joint Oceanographic Institutions Deep Earth Sampling (JOIDES)
program. However, at the formational level little is known concerning
the stratigraphy of the Continental Shelf off either northeastern or
southeastern Florida. However, it is probable that beds of Anastasia
age underlie the Holocene surface sediments on the shelf throughout much
of the study area. South of the Palm Beach-Broward County line the Miami
Oolite may crop out on the bottom close inshore. Because of its slight
dip and because the base lies only about 20 feet below sea level at the
coast, the Miami Formation is not likely to exist in water depths greater
than 20 feet.

The Key Largo Limestone and the Miami Formation are ascribed to the
Sangamon interglacial. Coral reefs flourishing during Sangamon time
created a shelter behind which the bryzoan facies of the Miami Formation
began to form. During the later stages of this period the oolitic facies
of the Miami Formation developed as a broad bar along the present-day
coastal areas (Hoffmeister, et al, 1967). This depositional phase ended
with the relative lowering of sea level and the consequent erosion and
partial induration of the Miami and Anastasia Formations. The final de-
positional event of the Pleistocene in southern Florida occurred with the
rise of the Pamlico Sea which inundated the coastal area leaving a sheet
of quartzose sand covering the eroded surface of both Miami and Anastasia
Formations. Subsequent to "Pamlico'' time the relative sea level has been
near or below its present stand.

Holocene deposits along the coast consist chiefly of littoral and
dune sediments, lagoon fill and shelf facies sands, much of which is
probably derived from erosion of Pleistocene deposits and from modern
organic production.

b. Nearshore Shelf Morphology and Surface Sediment

A generalized plan of the principal morphological elements
on the nearshore shelf off southeastern Florida is shown in Figure 4.
This plan is based on USC&GS boat sheets at 1:20,000 scale and bathy-
metric profiles obtained in the course of the Florida Sand Inventory
Program. A schematic topographic profile across these morphologic ele-
ments is illustrated in Figure 6. For the purposes of this report the
study area has been subdivided into two sections based on natural differ-
ences; and referred to as Section A (25°49' N to 26°20' N) and Section B
(Z5°Z0" IN 1) ZOAS? N)) a

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Section A (Figure 7a) is characterized by a step-like bathymetric
profile consisting of a series of linear plateaus (flats) each lower than
its immediate shoreward neighbor. Separating the flats are irregular
rocky ridges and slopes. In Section B (Figure 7b) the step-like character
of the profile is replaced by a relatively thick mass of fine gray sand
forming a gentle seaward slope over the central part of this portion of
the shelf surface.

Immediately seaward of the low water line and terminating at -10 to
-18 feet MLW is the shoreface slope evident in both Section A and B. This
narrow zone seaward from the low tide shoreline is continuously influenced
by the effects of waves, currents, and littoral sediment supply. At the
seaward boundary of the shoreface slope the profile flattens and gives way
to what is here referred to as the inner flat, a broad platform extending
between depths of around -10 to -30 feet MLW. The surface of this flat is
characterized by linear swales and ridges of low relief. The inner flat
is essentially an exposed, partially lithified, deposit of algal .plates,
mollusk fragments, foraminifers, corals and unidentified calcareous
material. A considerable portion of the unidentified fragments may be
debris from Sabellariid reefs (Kirtley and Tanner, 1968). South of Port
Everglades (26°06' N) the main part of the inner flat lies at around -16
to -25 feet MLW with some depths to 30 feet. Northward, this feature
becomes narrower, shoaler and less conspicuous.

Succeeding the inner flat in Section A is a second plateau at a
characteristic depth of -35 to -45 feet MLW. This plateau is separated
from the inner flat by a rocky, irregular slope with 10 to 15 feet relief
which is locally interrupted by a linear flat at around -30 feet MLW.

The second plateau is level, and the surface for the most part is un-
consolidated sediment. Its width ranges from 250 to 700 yards, but it

is generally of the order of 350 yards and is terminated by a rocky reef-
like ridge having irregular crest elevations of about 40 feet. South of
25°48' N, this reef line lies along the outer edge of the shelf and is
succeeded by the major slope leading to the Miami Terrace.

North of 25°48' N the second reef is fronted by a third plateau with
depths of -60 to -70 feet MLW. Like the second plateau this feature is a
relatively level sediment-floored depression 250 to 400 yards wide. The
surface of this plateau hasa pronounced landward dip, particularly in the
southern part of the region. Seaward of the third flat is a prominent
reef-like ridge with 10- to 15-foot relief which is periodically inter-
rupted by narrow passages and by very broad interruptions at around 26°00'
N and just north of 26°30' N. The reef crests typically at approximately
-50 feet MLW, but is quite irregular. Throughout Section A the shoreline
is not quite parallel to the reef, consequently the shore trends progress-
ively toward the reef from south to north, and the reef lies 3,500 yards
seaward of Miami Beach but only about 1,500 yards seaward of Boca Raton.
North of Boca Raton (26°20' N) the reef parallels the shoreline at a
distance of about 1,500 yards.

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Figure 7. Shelf profiles off southeastern Florida showing
subbottom reflectors: a) Section A (25°40' to 26°47" N)
anduib) Section Bis (26m2 0 ton2on47, aN) pepe namp corse
of (b) is line 18; other profiles are composite of two
or three juxtaposed lines.

Both the inner flat and the third reef line are more or less contin-
uous throughout the study area. North of about 26°20' N, i.e., Section
B, the inner slope, the second plateau, and the second reef (and at least
part of the third plateau) are overridden by a body of fine quartzose
sand (Figure 7b). Topographically the shelf surface in Section B between
the inner flat and the outer part of the third plateau exhibits in profile
a long uniform sediment slope dipping continuously seaward (Figure 7b).
While the shelf profile in Section B exhibits undulations, the relief is
not great and the prominent stepped profile characteristics of Section A
are no longer evident.

Information concerning the character of bottom surface sediments in
the study area is based upon analyses of cores supplemented by USC§GS
boat sheets and other sources. Most of the cores for this study were
taken from a rather narrow depth zone, -35 to -48 feet MLW. Information
obtained from the boat sheets and the other sources indicates similar
characteristics in the surface sediments landward and seaward of this
extensively sampled zone. Sediment exposed on the surface in Section A
is white or gray, medium to coarse grained, carbonate skeletal sand with
an average acid soluble content of more than 80 percent (Figures 8 and 9).
Sediment comprising the marine bottom in Section B is characteristically
gray, fine, and well sorted calcareous quartzose sand (Figure 10).

Size parameters and visual descriptions of surface samples, obtained
for this report, are contained in Appendixes B and C.

c. Nearshore Subbottom Morphology and Sediment Characteristics

(1) Character of Seismic Reflectors. Information concerning
sediment thickness on the southeast Florida shelf was gathered from chart
notations, core samples and continuous seismic profiles. Cross-sectional
profiles along all east-west survey tracklines shown in Figure 2 are
contained in Appendix D. These profiles are line drawings showing the
position and alignment of the bottom-water interface and subbottom acous-
tic interfaces within sediment and rock masses. Figure 11, a photograph
of the dual channel seismic reflection record is typical of the east-west
profiles south of 20°20' N (Section A).

Seismic reflection techniques do not provide direct evidence of the
character of bottom and subbottom materials. Direct evidence must normally
be gathered by drilling or coring into subbottom strata, or by tracing a
stratum to an exposure which can be sampled more directly. The correlation
of sediment or rock characteristics between data points is made easier by
seismic data since it is possible in some cases to continuously define the
strata identified in the core. Nevertheless, even where good acoustic
definition is available, considerable error is found where lateral changes
of sediment or rock character occur within the same bounding acoustic
interfaces.

Core 6 Top

Core 5 -1 foot

APPROXIMATE SCALE

5 Millimeters

4

3

Photomicrographs of

typical Section A sediemnts.

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APPROXIMATE SCALE

10
Millimeters

Figure 9. Photomicrographs of
typical skeletal fragments
in Section A sediments.

Core 21 -6 feet Core 22 -5 feet

APPROXIMATE SCALE

|_+__+__+—+—_|

(0) I 2 3 4 5 Millimeters

Figure 10. Photomicrographs of
typical sediments from
Section B.

Core 30 -4 feet

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Delineation of acoustic interfaces by seismic reflection profiling
is a reasonably accurate and straightforward procedure where the re-
flections are continuous or are interconnected by means of the survey
tracklines. Interpolations between survey lines or between gaps in a
line must be based on an assumption of continuity of slope or elevation
or on an assumed configuration which is geologically reasonable. Sub-
bottom reflecting horizons on the seismic records of south Florida are
frequently interrupted by absorption or scattering of the signal near the
bottom-water interface with consequent partial or total loss of subbottom
resolution. This sound absorption is especially noticeable in the old
reefs. For these reasons it is difficult to determine a regional reflec-
tor or to correlate over considerable distances with assurance that the
same horizon is being used. Therefore, wholly reliable qualitative sedi-
ment data exists only in the close vicinity of coring sites and only to
the depth of core penetration. In terms of acoustic interfaces, the bed-
rock delineation is considered to be reliable because the numerous expos-
ures provide a large number of data points and because the characteristic
irregular surface of bedrock provides a means of indirect identification.

(2) Bedrock Morphology. Extension of the bedrock surface
between tracklines was facilitated by USC&GS chart notations, and bottom
morphology where rock is exposed on the bottom. Extension of the gross
outline and general elevations of the bedrock surface under sediments in
the "flats" (or plateaus) is considered reliable. This surface, although
not continuously definable is apparently step-like with principal levels
at -15 to -25 feet MLW; -50 to -60 feet MLW; and -80 to -90 MLW. Reef-
like features crop out on the seaward edges of these steps, and spill over
onto the next lower level. Lesser irregularities on this surface are of
localized and indeterminate form and cannot be extended in plan at the
existing trackline spacing. Generalized bedrock topography in the Miami
grid area is depicted in Figure 12. The density of subbottom profiles
elsewhere in the study area is not adequate for purposes of mapping the
bedrock surface.

(3) Regional Subbottom Morphology. Because of sound ab-
sorption, scattering, and the relatively thin veneer of sediments covering
bedrock in the Miami grid area (and Section A in general) to water depths
of approximately -70 feet MLW, no regional reflector within the sediment
column would be discerned. However, seaward of this depth (the seaward
limit of the third plateau on the upper continental slope a thick blanket
of "modern' sediments overlies a regressive series of terraces extending
to depths of approximately -300 feet MLW (Meisburger, 1968). Within this
sediment envelope are numerous and prominent sonic reflectors some in-
clined at a steep angle seaward and resembling fore-set beds (Figure 7a).
Whether they are indeed fore-set beds representative of a relic shoreface,
or a fore-reef talus, is impossible to determine; they nevertheless are
interpreted as progradational marine features. The stratigraphically
highest of these deposits, extending from approximately -140 to -220 feet
MLW is terminated by a prominent sonic horizon indicative of a terrace
between -220 and -250 feet MLW. This terrace possibly relates to a
fluctuation of the Holocene transgression at approximately 11,000 years
B.P. (Curray, 1965). A deeper prominent reflector, dipping slightly from

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23

-295 to -325 feet MLW, may correlate with a Holocene stillstand some
15,000 years B.P. This date corresponds to the maximum regression of
Milliman and Emery (1968).

North of 26°20' N (Section B) to the limits of the study area
(26°48' N), a blanket of sediment that almost exhibits sonic-isotropism
covers all but the outermost of the three prominent "reef" lines present
further south. The old reef surface is locally a prominent reflector;
the bedrock structure consists typically of a series of step-like terraces
with the actual topographic reef features forming the riser to each of
the next lower steps.

(4) Subbottom Sediment Characteristics and Distribution.
Information concerning the character of subbottom sediments in the study
area is based upon analyses of samples from 31 cores obtained during the
field phase of the Florida Sand Inventory Program. These 3-inch (inside
diameter) cores range from 1.5 to 11 feet long. Twenty-seven were taken
in water depths of -35 to -48 feet MLW, thus are significantly represent-
ative of a limited shelf zone. Unpublished Corps of Engineers studies,
chart notations, and the Broward County, Florida, ''Bathymetric and Sand
Inventory Survey" (Ocean Science Engineering, Inc., 1967) were used to
supplement and extend core data. Granulometric statistics are contained
in Appendix B; visual descriptions of core samples are contained in
Appendix C.

The two distinct shelf sediment facies, distinguished in the surface
sediments in the study area, persist in general aspects in depth. In
Section A, sediments are more poorly sorted than in Section B to the
north and are, on the whole, far less uniform in depth and in lateral
extent. There is, moreover, a great dissimilarity in the composition of
these sediments (compare Figures 8 and 10). The unconsolidated Holocene
sediments in Section A are carbonate skeletal sands and gravels composed
largely of the hard parts of the biota living in the warm shallow waters
covering the shelf. About one-third of the skeletal fragments are intact
or sufficiently complete to be readily recognized. The remaining two-
thirds of the particles are probably derived from the same organisms
constituting the identifiable fraction. Examples of the more prevalent
skeletal constituents are shown in Figure 9. In comparison to the sands
of Section B, quartz is rare in Section A sediments and generally repre-
sents less than 10 percent by weight of the total sample. Although of
little significance in terms of volume, the quartz present in Section A
is of interest in that many of the particles are considerably larger and
better rounded than those in the northern section; numerous particles
are frosted.

The largest contributors to the skeletal material of Section A sedi-
ments are marine algae with characteristic leaf-like or triform shapes
(Halimeda), and mollusks. Foraminifers, especially large benthonic mili-
olids such as Peneroplis and Archtas, bryzoa, and corals are significant
contributors. See Figure 9 a-e. Frequently encountered in minor amounts

24

are echinoid spines, sponge spicules, alcyonarian sclerites, worm tubes,
ostracod carapaces, and many smaller foraminifers. Of the nonskeletal
material the dominant constituents are rod-shaped and elliptical pellets
(possibly fecal), semiconsolidated calcarenite, oolites and agluttenated
worm tubes. Locally such materials are volumetrically important and the
calcarenites are especially evident in cores from the Miami grid which
have presumably penetrated to bedrock. Constituents of the calcarenite
fragments making up the rock at the base of several cores are similar to
the finer carbonate skeletal sands occurring in the superposed unlithified
strata. In general, these fragments are white or cream colored, many
containing large, well-rounded quartz grains, and fragments of mollusk
shell, foraminifers, spicules, and pellets.

In most of the Section A sediments (Figure 13), the wide range of
sizes, poor sorting, and the character and condition of the constituent
particles suggest that these sediments were formed more or less in situ
with relatively little transportation involved. Indeed, numerous seismic
profiles (Appendix A) show an asymmetrical accumulation of sediment filling
the troughs shoreward of the second and third reefs. The surface slope of
this accumulation is shoreward and is judged to be evidence supporting the
idea of local source of sediment; the local source is the crest and seaward
edge of the reef: debris from the reef is carried over the reef crest to
be deposited in the shoreward trough. Much of the quartz present in the
samples might possibly be eroded from exposures of quartzitic calcarenite
(Anastasia Formation) cropping out on the nearshore bottom and especially
in the vicinity of the inner flat where such rock appears in several cores
and where wave erosion would be most effective. The quartz might also be
windblown or represent material carried in the littoral stream from the
north, albeit markedly diluted by the addition of large quantities of
carbonate in the southern waters.

In Section B (north of 26°20' N), most of the material recovered in
cores is a clean, homogeneous, fine to medium-grained sand (Figure 14).
It is a calcareous quartz sand (55 to 65 percent quartz) comprised of sub-
angular and subrounded clear quartz grains mixed with subrounded to rounded
gray, black and brown calcareous particles (Figure 10). Minor amounts of
presumably "fresh" skeletal material occur in most of the cores. Chiefly
these consist of fragile mollusk fragments and foraminiferal tests. The
quantity of such fragments is small, and there is little evidence that
such organisms presently contribute substantial amounts of sediment to the
shelf in Section B. Difference in sediments throughout Section B is not
large; however, sediments of the southern part of Section B (cores 26, 24,
23, and 22) are generally somewhat coarser and higher in carbonate content
than the sediments to the north (cores 21, 20, 31, 30, 29 and 28). In
essence, sediments of the southern half of Section B seem to represent a
transition from the extremes of the sediment in Sections A and B. In all
Section B cores, sediment comprising the surface (0-2 cm) sample is finer
than the material below; the same is not true of Section A sediments.

(25)

Millimeters
4.00 3.00 250 2.00 4 60 50 40

Percent Coarser

C0) AL) =) =) te) 0.5 1.0 5 2.0 2.5 3.0 8) 4.0
Phi Units Cs)

GRANULE COARSE SAND | MEDIUM SAND | FINE SAND [VERY FINE SAND

Millimeters
4.00 3.00250 2.00 1.50 1.00 .80 60 50 40 30 25 .20 15 10.08 suern

70

fo)
fo)

a
°
Percent Coarser

py
fo}

w
fo)

ipo)
fo)

ua

10

-20 -I5 -10 -05 0 05 Mm i eo uesn So so | ao
Phi Units ®

COARSE SAND | MEDIUM SAND FINE SAND [VERY FINE SAND

Figure 13. Cumulative curves, representative of offshore
sediments in Section A.

26

Millimeters

400 3.00 250 200 150 100 80 60 50 40 30 6.25 20 15 10 08 062
a
2
o
o
oO
=
a
fey
a
a
|
=20), ={h) SOR 0:5) 0 0.5 10 1.5 2.0 25 3.0 3.5 4.0
Phi Units
[GRANULE [very coanse SAND] COARSE SAND | MEDIUM SAND [ FINE SAND [VERY FINE SAND
Millimeters
4.00 3.00 250 200 1.50 1.00 80 60 50 40 30.25 20 15 10 08 O85
98
97
95
90
85
80
70

60

uo
fo)
Percent Coarser

30

“29 “lj A0 -OS “© “OS 10 14 20° 25 "So sa 2G
Phi Units @

GRANULE COARSE SAND | MEDIUM SAND | FINE SAND [VERY FINE SAND

Figure 14. Cumulative curves, representative of offshore
sediments in Section B.

a7

d. Miami Grid Area

Tracklines were surveyed on a grid pattern in an approximate
3- by 7-mile area encompassing the shelf and upper slope off south Miami,
Key Biscayne and Virginia Key (Figure 3). A total of 10 cores were taken
on the shelf portion of the grid area. Analyses of the cores, geophysical
profiles, and USC§&GS boat sheets are the bases of Figures 12, 15, and 16
which show the bedrock surface, bottom morphology, and sediment thickness,
respectively, in the Miami grid area.

The multiple-stepped bottom morphology described previously for
Section A is typically developed in the Miami grid area and is depicted
in profile in Figures 7 and 11. Adjacent to the shore is a well-developed
terrace with the surface at 0 to -6 feet MLW. The slope terminates on
the inner flat at approximately -12 to -18 feet MLW.

Relief of the inner flat is low. A broad irregular rocky ridge ris-
ing in places to -15 feet MLW rims the outer part of the plateau throughout
most of the grid area, becoming less distinct toward the southern end of
the area. Parallel to the shoreward edge of this ridge a broad shallow
swale with central depths of -28 to -30 feet MLW extends through the
northern half of the grid area.

The seaward slope of the ridge marking the outer edge of the inner
flat drops to a linear flat at a characteristic depth of -35 to -40 feet
MLW. This second flat, which is continuous with the second flat to the
north, averages about 800 yards wide. Bordering the flat to seaward in
the northern half of the grid area a reef-like rocky ridge cresting at -30
to -40 feet MLW marks the edge of the shelf. In the south, this reef is
discontinuous, and where absent, the shelf break occurs at around -45 feet
MLW. From -45 feet MLW to about -100 feet, the upper part of the continen-
tal slope is rocky or comprised of coarse reef debris. Below 100 feet,
geophysical profiles show a thick section of sediments with seaward dipping
bedding planes to the maximum depth of survey which is about -350 feet MLW.
On the basis of depth and the configuration of the bedding, these sediments
are presumed to be Pleistocene and Holocene shoreface deposits overlain by
a thin blanket of more recent slope sediments. This assumption has not
been confirmed.

Over most of the inner flat the bedrock surface is either exposed or
close to the surface, and sediments in the grid area are thin and dis-
continuous. Linear troughlike depressions in the bedrock of the 40-foot
flat contain a 5- to 15-foot accumulation of sediment (Figure 16). Rock
is either exposed or covered by a thin veneer along most of the remainder
of the shelf edge and upper slope to 100-foot depths. The only other
extensive accumulation delineated by this sand inventory program lies in
the southernmost part of the inner flat zone where between 5 and 10 feet
of sediment have accumulated.

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Ridges are generally barren or contain only isolated, thin sediment
patches. Other areas of Figure 16 indicating sediment accumulation
represent the position of swales on plateaus where sediment accumulation
of 2 or 3 feet occurs. Topographic highs which terminate the plateaus
are generally barren of sediment, or contain only thin and areally small
accumulations.

A large volume of sediment apparently does exist in the shoreface
terrace because some borings have penetrated sediment sections 15 to 18
feet thick. Shallow waters and wave action precluded obtaining cores or
seismic profiles; consequently no direct correlations of data from this
area can be made with data obtained in the Miami grid.

e. Coastal Morphology and Sediment Characteristics

Between Government Cut at Miami and Lake Worth Inlet near
Palm Beach the southeast Florida coastline extends in an almost straight
line, bearing about 6° east from a north-south direction. It is a
"barrier coast" in the coastal classification of Shepard (1963). The
immediate coastal area lies along sandy barrier islands and spits backed
by bays, lagoons, marshes and improved sections of the Intracoastal
Waterway. The highly developed coastal zone is broken by seven inlets,
and protected by numerous groins and almost 20 miles (29 percent) of
seawalls and bulkheads. Most of these shoreline improvements are concen-
trated in the southern half of the area. Physical characteristics of the
beach vary because it is influenced and localized by the numerous engi-
neering structures and inlets. Figure 17 is a graphic plot of the median
diameter of beach samples compiled from various sources. The wide range
of median size between relatively closely spaced stations and the lack of
agreement between data from different sources do not favor generalization.

The acid-soluble content of beach samples from the study area ranges
from 45 to 85 percent. Visual examination shows that the acid-soluble
content is almost entirely of biologic origin with mollusk fragments the
most significant constituent. These fragments are generally tabular,
sturdy, and well rounded; many have a high polish.

Occasional exposures of coquina rock appear along the beach. Numerous
borings and probings in the waterways behind the beach encountered rock
identified as limestone or coquina at less than -15 feet MLW; most prob-
ably the Anastasia Formation or its facies equivalent. Offshore the rocky
surface of the inner flat generally commences at less than -15 feet water
depth suggesting that the rock is continuous under the beach zone.

31

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32

Section III. DISCUSSION
1. Sediment Distribution and Origin

Distribution of unconsolidated sediment on the shelf in Section
A is largely controlled by configuration of the bedrock surface. Depres-
sions such as the linear troughs between reef lines, shallow swales and
bowls on the inner flat, and areas in the lee of topographic highs are
favored sites of deposition. The effect of waves and currents on shelf
sedimentation processes in this area are not known in detail.

Available data indicate there is little if any sediment transported
into the shelf area from the north (Section B) where shelf sediments are
finer and much higher in quartz than those of Section A. Introduction
of sediment from the slope is also highly unlikely since it would require
migration upslope and across the outer reef line.

No significant quantities of the material presently comprising the
beach were found in the cores obtained offshore. Further, the general
median sand size seaward from the beach shows a decrease to depths of
-12 to -18 feet MLW (U. S. Army Engineer District, Jacksonville, 1956,
1960, 1961, 1963, 1965). Beyond this depth, the inner flat (essentially
rocky) separates the nearshore zone from the shelf proper. Thus, there is
a zone of relatively fine sand and rock separating two zones of coarser and
compositionally dissimilar materials on the beach and shelf. Significant
interchange of material between the beach zone and the shelf either in a
landward or seaward direction within the study area is judged improbable.

Shelf sediments of Section A are judged to be produced more or less
in sttu from organisms presently comprising the biota of the shelf bottom,
particularly that biota along the reef and slope lines. Sedimentary ma-
terial thus produced could subsequently be swept into the adjacent troughs
by wave or current action. Sediment produced under shallow water condi-
tions extant during lower relative stands of sea level associated with
late Wisconsin glaciation may account for some quantity of the trough
sediments. However,.as no age dating of these sediments has yet been
undertaken, it is not possible to determine relative quantities of
sediment contributed during Wisconsin or Holocene time.

Sediments comprising the beach and shoreface zone in Section A are
believed to be a combined product of littoral drift from the north and
south, local shell production, shoreward transfer of material eroded from
the inner flat, and erosion of the shore. Impoundment of sediment at inlet
jetties and other coastal engineering works is evidence of net drift from
the north.

Much sand has been lost from the littoral zone during recent years; a
conservative estimate is that a net loss of 10 to 15 million cubic yards
has occurred in the past 30 years (Watts, 1962). This material is probably
transported to the deeper water of the shelf or slope. If littoral sedi-
ment moving southward is lost to the littoral stream through movement into

deeper water offshore, the character of the sediment indicates that off-
shore movement does not occur in Section A. Loss of beach material in
the Miami area could:then only be due to nearshore longshore movement ,
or solution of shell material. Rusnak (1966) concluded that loss by
abrasion is insignificant. Because of the pH and composition of the

sea water, loss by solution should be insignificant also. It is judged,
therefore, that the observed loss of beach material (less that lost to
inlets) is due to movement parallel to shore out of the area, rather
than movement directly offshore.

The gray sand body covering most of the shelf in Section B is prob-
ably detrital in origin, but the source of this material is not clear.
The black or dark gray coloration of most of the shell material in the
sand provides the sand with a distinctive gray color. Such coloration of
the shell material has generally been taken to indicate previous burial in
a marsh or swamp environment; however, recent studies show that blackened
skeletal fragments may form in a subbottom marine environment (Maiklem,
1967). Thus, the present color does not necessarily indicate a relict
deposit or material eroded from a lagoon bottom or back beach source.
In fact, on the Georgia nearshore Continental Shelf, recent sediment is
colored gray and contains 25 percent or less of carbonate (Gorsline, 1963),
Pilkey and Frankenberg, 1964), not too unlike the sediment in Section B.

It is unlikely the gray sand comes from offshore for reasons ex-
plained above, and a source area in the high carbonate environment to the
south is improbable in view of the high quartz content and the shape and
compositional difference of much of the skeletal material here. Also,
sediment northward in the Fort Pierce area is dissimilar to sediment in
Section B, which would preclude a northward source. One other difficulty
with the explanation for a northern source is that within the zone where
cores were taken there is a general decrease in average grain size north-
ward; the trend, therefore, would be contrary to the premise of a de-
crease in grain size downdrift from a source. A possible explanation
may be that the southward moving inshore sediments are washed seaward to
deeper water in Section B and then drift back northward because of nor-
therly offshore currents. Research presently underway by John Milliman
(personal communication) indicates a narrow zone of sediment with rela-
tively high quartz content (25-50 percent) extending offshore between Fort
Pierce and Jupiter Inlet to approximately the 100-fathom line thence ex-
tending north for 150 miles and south for 90 miles. Current measurements
near Miami show a northward drift over the shelf of about 0.5 feet per
second (House Document 169, 75th Congress, 1937). General velocity of
this drift is not competent to move particles greater than silt size
(0.062 mm; 49) although periodic higher velocity northward currents
capable of moving material in the size ranges characteristic of the gray
sands of Section B might occur.

2. Sand Requirements

At the date of writing of the report, Beach Erosion Control and
Hurricane Protection Studies conducted by the Corps on the Florida east

34

coast, extending from Duval County at the north to Dade County at the
south, were examined and proposed project requirements summarized by
Duane (1968). The projects showed an initial fill requirement of some
26 million cubic yards of material with annual replenishment of slightly
less than 2 million cubic yards. Over a 50-year maintenance period, 110
million cubic yards would be required.

Corps of Engineers studies prepared for specific beach erosion control
projects in Palm Beach, Broward, and Dade Counties estimate requirements
of nearly 21.5 million cubic yards of sand for initial fill and maintenance
requirements of nearly 900,000 cubic yards annually. Thus, for a 50-year
economic life, an additional need of approximately 45 million yards of
sand can be forecast. Requirements for specific coastal sections within
the limits of this study area are summarized in Table II.

Using erosion and shoaling data from Beach Erosion Control reports,
Watts (1962) estimated that an annual net of 842,000 cubic yards of sedi-
ment had eroded shoreward of -18 feet MLW between Lake Worth Inlet and
Government Cut (Miami) for at least 30 years prior to that report. The
annual loss into inlets during this period was estimated at 200,000 cubic
yards, leaving a net residual loss to the shore area of 642,000 cubic
yards. Impoundment and shoaling data for Lake Worth Inlet indicates that
around 230,000 cubic yards of material moves south annually into the inlet
area (Watts, 1962). Even if the entire amount lost at Lake Worth Inlet
were bypassed and allowed to reach the littoral zone to the south, a net
annual deficit of 412,000 cubic yards of sand would occur in the littoral
sand budget south to Government Cut. These figures indicate that such
remedial measures as groins and inlet bypassing would not entirely prevent
continued erosion of the beaches of southeast Florida and that periodic
replenishment of at least some of the loss would appear to be the most
effective measure of maintaining suitable beaches in the area.

3. Areas Suitable for Offshore Borrow

The density of data collected by CERC for this study is adequate
for sand volume calculations in the Miami grid area only. A study of
the sand resources on the shelf off Broward County (25°58' N to 26°20' N;
Figure 18) was completed in 1967 by Ocean Science and Engineering Company
(OSE) for the Broward County Erosion Control Committee who have made the
results available to the Coastal Engineering Research Center. The Broward
County Study is based on marine seismic reflection profiles run from about
100 yards offshore to 1 nautical mile offshore at 600-foot intervals along
the entire county frontage; these were supplemented by two long cross lines
parallel to shore. Sediment characteristics of the bottom and to -12 feet
below the bottom were determined by use of several sampling techniques:
a 12-foot long airlift sampling device, a water-jet probe, and diver
inspection. From the two sources (CERC and OSE studies), it is possible
to make reasonably reliable sand volume estimates for most of the region
south of 26°20' N (Section A). Only tentative estimates for Section B can
be made because of the reconnaissance nature of the CERC Sand Inventory

35

Fill Requirements in the Study Area

Palm Beach County

Jupiter Inlet
to
Lake Worth Inlet

Lake Worth Inlet
to
Boca Raton Inlet

Boca Raton Inlet

to
Broward County Line

Broward County

Palm Beach County Line

to
Hillsboro Inlet

Hillsboro Inlet
to
Port Everglades

Dania
to
Hollywood-Hallandale

Dade County

Broward County Line
to
Haulover Beach

Haulover Beach Park

Bakers Haulover
to
Government Cut

Key Biscayne
and
Virginia Key

TABLE II

36

Initial

1,560, 000

3,760,000

240,000

800,000

1,538,000

1,339,000

1,670,000

310,000

1,670,000

1,065,000

Annual

65,000

115,000

10,000

50,000

100,000

160,000

135,000

20,000

135,000

48,000

LAKE fa

/ $25
20: +Line 6
80°04'

EXPLANATION
ec-9 Core Boring

s7 38 Survey Line and
Navigation Fix

BCH 29
©

Beach Sample

OSE Study Area

N-S Scale in Yards

|
5000 0 5000 10000

E-W Scale in Yards

2000 1000 (0) 2000 4000

Figure 18. Limits of study by OSE for Broward County Erosion
Control Committee.

37

program there, and because of the paucity of published information con-
cerning the shelf in that area. ,

Because of the line spacing involved in the CERC exploration program
at Miami, more closely spaced work might be required to more precisely
define the most suitable bottow areas prior to exploitation. Such a
program would be analogous to "development drilling" in the petroleum
industry, and to '"blocking-out the ore'' in the mining industry; conse-
quently, it is not a requirement unique to the offshore Sand Inventory
Program. Quantities of sand available are summarized in Table III.

SECTION A

The OSE Broward County report estimates a total sand volume of 66
million cubic yards within 1.2 miles offshore of Broward County. Of this
material, 36 million cubic yards is concentrated in the 60-foot plateau,
within 1 mile of the beach. The remaining 30 million cubic yards lies
scattered in patches and thin blanket deposits in the 40-foot plateau and
on the inner flat. Over half of this material is concentrated in the
northern two-fifths of the segment where isolated sand pockets within
the 40-foot plateau begin to coalesce into larger bodies.

From the south Broward County line to the Miami grid, a total of 66
million cubic yards of sand are estimated to occur.

In the CERC Miami grid area, 14 statute miles south of the OSE Study,
there is a sand volume of 69 million cubic yards exclusive of the thin
and discontinuous patches generally occurring on the inner flat. Of this
amount, about 48 million yards are contained within the confines of the
40-foot flat 3 to 4 miles from the beach (Figure 19). A smaller concen-
tration of about 5 million cubic yards lies on the offshore part of the
inner flat (Figure 19). Because of the nature of known accumulations,
similar but smaller areas of recoverable sand can be forecast with reason-
able assurance to occur elsewhere on the flat.

Approximately 16 million cubic yards of unconsolidated sediment occur
in the shoreface zone of Dade County. However, calculation of sediment
volumes in the shoreface is based on sparse data; no seismic lines were
run in this area due to the shallow water. Borings by the Corps of En-
gineers (Jacksonville District, 1961; 1968) indicated up to 18 feet of
sediment in the shoreface off Key Biscayne and less than 5 feet off
Virginia Key.

SECTION B

On the basis of the limited data available, morphology of the shelf
and subbottom, and geology of the region, the volume of material available
within the shelf area of Section B (north of 26°20' N) is estimated at
380 million cubic yards. The bulk of the sand is believed to have
characteristics similar to the fine gray sand recovered in the 10 cores

38

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[ | EXPLANATION
ec-9 Core Boring
BCH 29 sy *? Survey Line and
MIAMI Navigation Fix
BCH 29

(0) Beach Sample
W Gray Medium Quartzose Sand

Dark Gray Coarse Calcareous Sand

VA/, Gray Med-Coarse Calcareous Sand

White Med-Coarse Calcareous Sand

E-W Scale in Yards

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Areas most suitable for sand borrow.

collected. Near the reef lines and at depths not reached by the cores
under the gray sand blanket, the sand may be similar to the calcareous
sand of Section A.

4. Suitability

Corps of Engineers studies for Palm Beach, Broward, and Dade
Counties indicate a possible requirement of some 6 million cubic yards
of sand over a 50-year period; more than enough sand to meet these needs
exists in the study area. Indeed, enough sand-size material exists off-
shore in just the Miami grid to meet initial requirements (21.5 million)
and some years of annual nourishment.

Sand comprising the beaches of Dade and Broward Counties has a high
carbonate content, but the aspect of the carbonate fraction existing
offshore in the Miami grid is different (see Figures 20 and 21). Shell
debris on the beaches is somewhat larger and much less delicate than the
shell occurring in the potential offshore borrow zones. This is due to
the difference in the type of organism contributing to the shell. Off-
shore the shell debris is from-algae and foraminifers indigenous to the
quieter offshore zones, while onshore it comes from mollusks indigenous
to the high energy littoral zone (Figure 19). Although median diameters
of beach and offshore sediment are not too dissimilar (Figure 17), the
compositional differences indicate there is some question if the offshore
sand-size material would maintain its integrity once placed on the beach;
that is, it might disintegrate under surf action. Therefore, while ample
material exists off Miami, the degree of its suitability can be determined
only through further study.

Sediment comprising the shoreface terraces and the bottom offshore
in Section B are compositionally more suitable for beach fill but the
Size characteristics (small median diameter) make the sediment not wholly
satisfactory for long-term projects.

Section IV. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

The southeastern coast of Florida between Cape Florida and Lake Park
is bordered by a narrow, shallow submarine shelf which is characterized
by two distinct morphological and sedimentary aspects, one dominant in
the north and the other dominant in the south.

As part of a larger study, a subbottom exploration program covering
this 141 square mile shelf area was carried out by the U. S. Army Corps
of Engineers in 1965. In this program 176 miles of continuous seismic
reflection profiles and 31 sediment cores were collected.

The low coast bordering the southeastern Florida shelf is covered

by relatively thin sediment deposits consisting of late Pleistocene sands
and Holocene beach and dune sediments. Underlying these sediments are

4\

Beach 29 i Beach 47

APPROXIMATE SCALE

(0) I 2 3 4 5 Millimeters

Figure 20. Photographs of typical
beach material in Section A.
(25°40'N to 26°20' N)

42

Beach 40 Beach 38

APPROXIMATE SCALE

(0) | 2 3 4 5 Millimeters

7igure 21. Photographs of typical
beach material in Section B.
(26°20' N to 26°47" N)

Beach 34

43

elements of the Pleistocene Miami and Anastasia Formation; both highly
calcareous and rich in biogenous material. Bordering the shelf to seaward
beyond the shelf break at around -70 feet MLW is the western slope of the
northern Straits of Florida.

South of Boca Raton (26°20' N) the shelf is step-like in profile,

consisting of two or three linear flats separated by low reef-like ridges.

The two outer flats are formed by the underlying bedrock surface and the
outer ridges which create trough-like linear depressions partially filled
with sediment. The inner flat is predominantly rocky with thin and dis-
continuous patches of sediment throughout. Characteristically, sediments
comprising the southern part of the shelf in the study area are composed
of fragments of the biota, poorly sorted, and ranging in size from silt to
very coarse sand. In the outer trough-like flats there are accumulations
of about 5 to 15 feet of sediment. The deposits on the broad inner flat
rarely exceed 5 feet in thickness and are generally much thinner than this.

The total volume of sediment in the two outer (second and third) flats
is estimated to be 160 million cubic yards. About 100 million cubic yards
is located in the second flat at around -35 to -50 feet and is therefore
more readily accessible to existing dredging equipment. Sand accumulation
on the inner flat may aggregate approximately 20 million cubic yards, but
the location of most of this material and the nature of the deposit are
not favorable from the standpoint of recovery. South of Government Cut at
Miami, the shoreface terrace contains an estimated 16 million cubic yards
of sediment but the removal of any substantial amount of this material
may have an unfavorable effect on the shoreline.

In terms of accessibility and lateral continuity of the deposits, the
most readily available supply of sand lies in the linear second flat at
depth of -35 to -50 feet MLW, and from 1 to 3 miles offshore. The size
characteristics of the material when compared to existing beach sediments
on the adjacent coast are such that much of it would be usable for local
beach restoration and nourishment. There is a difference, however, in the
character of the constituent particles in that the offshore material con-
tains a substantial amount of delicate material which may become mechani-
cally degraded in the turbulent littoral zone. Further study and tests
of the material are therefore needed to fully appraise its suitability.

North of Boca Raton (26°20' N) to the northern limit of the study
area the shelf topography and sediments change dramatically. Most of
the shelf here is covered by a blanket of homogenous ‘fine to medium gray
quartzose sand which produces a gently dipping relatively smooth shelf
surface topography. Near the shore this sand blanket may reach a thickness
of around 40 feet, thence it thins progressively seaward to a feather edge
in the vicinity of the shelf break, a distance of approximately 1,500 yards
from shore. The total volume of sand available in the northern shelf
segment is estimated to be 380 million cubic yards.

In general, this sand is considerably finer than most sand presently

found on southeastern Florida beaches and, therefore, of doubtful value
for local beach nourishment projects.

44

LITERATURE CITED

Cooke, C. W. (1945), "Geology of Florida, "Florida Geological Survey
Bulletin No. 29.

Curray, J. (1965), The Quarternary of the United States, H. E. Wright and
DEG Eney,, Editors, . brinceton) UniversntyePresse| | pp.) 7235-755"

Duane, D. B. (1968), "Sand Inventory Program in Florida" Shore and Beach,
WOl, 86, NOs il, jaa, 1215.

Emery, K. O. and Zarudski, E. F. K. (1967), Seismic Reflection Profiles
Along the Drill Holes on the Continental Margin off Florida", U. S.
Geological Survey Prof.’ Paper 581-A.

Fineran, W. W. (1938), "Study of Beach Conditions at Daytona Beach, Florida
and vicinity", Florida Engineering Experiment Station Bulletin No. IV.

Gorsline, D. S. (1963), "Bottom Sediments of the Atlantic Shelf and Slope
off the Southern United States, Journal of Gz0lozgH, WOil.e Vil, NO. 4,
pp. 422-440.

Hall, J. V. (1952), “Artificially Nourished and Constructed Beaches an Urmsr
Army Corps of Engineers, Beach Erosion Board Technical Memorandum
NOs 29.

Hoffmeister, J. E. and Multer, H. G. (1968), "Geology and Origin of the
Florida Keys", Geologteal Society of America Bulletin, Vol. 79,
No. 11, pp. 1487-1502.

Hoffmeister, J. E., Stockman, F. W., and Multer, H. G. (1967), "Miami
Limestone and its Recent Bahamian Counterpart", Geological Society
of Amertca Bulletin, Vol. 78, pp. 175-190.

Hurley, R. J., Siegel, V. B. and Fink, L. K., Jr. (1962), Marine Science
of the Gulf and Caribbean, Bulletin Vol. 12, No. 3.

Kirtley, D. W., and Tanner, W. F. (1968), "Sabellariid Worms: Builders of
a Major Reef Type", Journal, Sedimentary Petrology, Vol. 38, No. 1,
pp. 73-78.

Krumbein, W. C. and James, W. R. (1965), "A Lognormal Size Distribution
Model for Estimating Stability of Beach Fill Material", U. S. Army
Coastal Engineering Research Center Technical Memorandum No. 16.

Maiklem, W. R. (1967), "Black and Brown Foraminiferal Sand from the

Southern Part of the Great Barrier Reef", Journal, Sedimentary
Petrology, Vol. 37, No. 4, pp. 1023-1030.

45

Martens, J. C. (1931), ''Beaches of Florida'', Florida Geological Survey
Annual Report, 1928-1930, Florida Geological Survey, Tallahassee,
Florida.

Mauriello, L. J. (1967), "Experimental Use of Self-Unloading Hopper Dredge
for Rehabilitation of an Ocean Beach", Proceedings, WODCON 67, the
First World Dredging Conference. pp. 367-395.

Meisburger, E. P. (1968), "Morphology and Sediments of the Shelf and
Upper Slope off Southeastern Florida", Abstract, Southeastern Section,
Geological Society of America. pp. 58, 59.

Miller, H. J., Tirey, G. B., Mecarini, G:(1967), "Mechanics of Mineral
Exploration, American Society of Mechanical Engineers, Underwater
Technology Conference, 1967.

Milliman, J. D. and Emery, K. O. (1968), "Sea Levels During the Past
35,000 Years'', Setence, Vol. 162, pp. 1121-1123.

Moore, D. G. and Palmer, H. P. (1968), Offshore Seismic Reflections
Surveyss" in Civil Engineering in the Oceans, ASCE, pp. 780-806.

Ocean Science and Engineering, Inc. (1967), "Broward County, Florida,
Bathymetric and Sand Inventory Survey", Broward County Erosion
Advisory Committee Final Report.

Parker, G. G. (1951), "Geologic and Hydrologic Factors in the Perennial
Yield of the Biscayne Aquifer", Amertean Water Works Assoetattion
Journal, Vol. 43, No. 10, pp. 817-835.

Pilkey, O. H. and Frankenberg, D. (1964), ''The Relict-Recent Sediment
Boundary on the Georgia Continental Shelf", Georgia Academy of
Science, Vol. XXII, No. l.

Rusnak, G. A., Stockman, K., and Hofmann, H. (1966), ''The Role of Shell
Material in the Natural Sand Replenishment Cycle of the Beach and
Nearshore Area Between Lake Worth Inlet and the Miami Ship Channel",
Institute of Marine Science, Univ. of Miami, Coral Gables, Florida.
Final Report submitted to Coastal Engineering Research Center on
Contract ENG 63-12.

Schlee, J. (1966), ''A Modified Woods Hole Rapid Sediment Analyzer"
Journal, Sedimentary Petrology, Vol. 36, No. 2, pp. 403-413.

Schroeder, M. C., Milliken, D. C., and Love, S. K. (1954), "Water Resources
of Palm Beach County, Florida'', Florida Geological Survey Report of
Investigations No. 13, Tallahassee, Florida.

Siegel, V. B. (1959), ''Reconnaissance Survey of the Straits of Florida",
Marine Laboratory of the University of Miami, Coral Gables, Florida,
TR 59-3.

46

Shepard, F. P. (1963), Submarine Geology, Harper and Row, New York.

U. S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, (1966), "Shore Protection
Planning and Design", 3rd Edition, Coastal Engineering Research Center
Technical Report No. 4, Washington, D. C.

U. S. Army Corps of Engineers, (1956), ''Beach Erosion Control Report on
Cooperative Study of Palm Beach, Florida'', U. S. Army Engineer
District, Jacksonville, Jacksonville, Florida.

U. S. Army Corps of Engineers, (1960), ''Beach Erosion Control Report on
Cooperative Study of Palm Beach County, Florida, U. S. Army Engineer
District, Jacksonville, Jacksonville, Florida.

U. S. Army Corps of Engineers, (1961), ''Beach Erosion Control Report on
Cooperative Study of Virginia Key and Key Biscayne, Florida", U. S.
Army Engineer District, Jacksonviile, Jacksonville, Florida.

U. S. Army Corps of Engineers, (1963), "Broward County, Florida, Beach
Erosion Control and Hillsboro Inlet Navigation Report", U. S. Army
Engineer District, Jacksonville, Jacksonville, Florida.

U. S. Army Corps of Engineers (1965), ''Dade County, Florida, Beach Erosion
Control and Hurricane Protection Report", U. S. Army Engineer District,
Jacksonville, Jacksonville, Florida.

U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey. Unpublished Hydrographic Boat Sheets.

Watts, G. M. (1962), "Preliminary Study on Littoral Drift Movement from
Palm Beach-Martin County Line to Government Cut, Florida", Beach
Erosion Board unpublished manuscript, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers,
Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D. C.

Zeigler, J. M., Whitney, G. G. and Hays, C. R. (1960), 'Woods Hole Rapid

Sediment Analyzer", Journal, Sedimentary Petrology, Vol. 30, No. 3,
pp. 490-495.

47

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EXPLORATION TECHNIQUES

Part I. SURVEY TECHNIQUES

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Figure A-1l.
Figure aD,
Figure A-3.

Figure A-4.

General

Seismic Profiling Techniques
Coring

Survey Control

CONDUCT OF SAND INVENTORY SURVEYS
General

Planning

Survey Operations
Data Analysis

ILLUSTRATIONS
Typical dual source seismic reflection profile
Navigation chart with trackline overlays
Typical survey trackline configurations

Reduced seismic reflection profile data

Part I. SURVEY TECHNIQUES

1. General

The CERC Sand Inventory Program is based largely on field sur-
veys using marine seismic reflection profiling techniques supplemented
by spot coring of the bottom and shallow-subbottom sediments. Electronic
survey instruments furnish continuous accurate position control for both
operations.

2. Seismic Profiling Techniques

The principles involved in seismic reflection profiling are de-
tailed in several technical papers, such as Ewing, 1963; Miller, et al,
1967; and Moore and Palmer, 1968. Marine seismic profiling systems use
the physical properties of sound waves to reveal bottom and subbottom
horizons in water-covered areas. The basic elements of the system consist
of a high-energy, sound-generating source, a detection device to receive
reflected sound energy, and a recorder capable of converting the incident
and reflected sound pulses to a graphic travel-time plot.

Parts of the sound energy generated near the water surface are
reflected from the sediment-water interface. The remaining energy pene-
trates the bottom where additional parts are reflected from subbottom
acoustic interfaces. A hydrophone array towed behind the survey vessel
is used to pick up both the incident pulse and reflections from the bottom
and subbottom interfaces. These signals are transmitted to the survey
vessel, amplified, and then fed to the recorder which graphically plots
the two-way travel time on electrosensitive strip chart paper. Assuming
constant but different velocities for sound in water and shelf sediments,
a vertical depth scale can be constructed showing the depth from the
water surface to each reflective horizon.

The strip recording chart is moved through the recorder at a constant
predetermined speed governed by a highly accurate electromechanical system.
The horizontal "map" scale of the trackline is found by frequent naviga-
tional fixes which are keyed to the record by an event marker. Speed of
the survey vessel is maintained as constant as sea conditions permit to
facilitate interpolation of the distance between fixes. The resultant
record is an acoustic cross section of the ocean bottom and subbottom to
the effective penetration deth of the sound generator used. Reflecting
horizons may or may not be directly related to lithological interfaces in
the strict sense, because such formation factors as changes in grain shape
and size, water content, temperature, salinity, and porosity can create
acoustic contrast. The number and thickness of strata with one or more
of these variables can also affect acoustic attenuation; therefore micro-
stratigraphy is also a factor.

Normally, in sand inventory survey work, two sound sources are used
with results recorded simultaneously by means of a dual channel recorder.
One source produces a high resolution record but has limited penetration
(normally less than 100 feet below the bottom). This unit generally
consists of a 50 to 100 joule sound source firing at a rate of 4 to 8
pulses per second. The second sound source has higher power (100 to 200
joules) and penetrates the subbottom locally to more than 400 feet. The
frequency of both systems is continuously variable through a range from
20 Hz to 20 kH;.- A section of a dual record is reproduced in Figure A-1.
The upper record, produced by the low-power source, shows finer discrimina-
tion but less penetration than the high-power source. From the standpoint
of dredging capabilities the high resolution record is the most useful;
however, the high-power record is valuable because it provides data on the
deeper geologic framework underlying the shelf. Moreover, in places where
the bottom materials are resistant to high resolution sonic penetration,
the high-power record may provide the only data on shallow subbottom
strata.

5, Coming

Objectives of the coring program require that sediment be ob-
tained from below the water-sediment interface; that the stratigraphic
sequence be undisturbed; and that samples be returned to the surface with-
out loss of fine or coarse fragments. The coring device used for CERC
sand inventory surveys is a pneumatic vibrating corer designed to obtain
long cores (up to 20 feet) in Continental Shelf sediments. The apparatus
consists of a standard core barrel, liner, shoe and core catcher with the
pneumatic driving element fastened to the upper end of the barrel. These
units are enclosed in a frame which serves as a vertical mount for the
coring assembly. In operation, the assembly is lowered to the sea floor,
and the lowering line slacked off. Compressed air from a deck-mounted
compressor flows to the vibratory mechanism through a flexible hose that
permits vessel movement in the waves. After full penetration (or refusal),
the assembly is lifted on board the vessel. The liner containing the
core is removed, capped, marked, and stored.

4. Survey Control

Navigation of the marine seismic survey and coring operations
is controlled by a precision, electronic-positioning system using onshore
reflectors or transmitters placed at predetermined points located in refer-
ence to USGS, USC&GS and USA CofE survey monuments. Fixes are normally
taken at 2-minute intervals during survey operation. Each fix is keyed to
the geophysical record by an event marker. A navigation overlay for part
of the Florida Sand Inventory is shown in Figure A-2.

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Part II. CONDUCT OF SAND INVENTORY SURVEYS -

1. General

Procedure for the conduct of sand inventory projects has re-
mained fairly consistent since their beginning. The few significant
changes which have been made resulted from experience gained in earlier
surveys. In general, the conduct of a particular survey is divided into
three phases; planning, exploration, and data analysis.

2. Planning

Perhaps the most essential aspect of planning a regional sub-
bottom survey is flexibility. Although it is a practice to gather avail-
able background data about the survey area to assist the planner, detailed
information concerning the continental margins is generally deficient.
Once the survey gets underway, new data is generated and a clearer picture
of the area emerges. The new data often suggest desirable alterations in
the basic plan. To prevent excessive downtime in offshore surveying, the
plan should provide means for rapidly making changes.

Survey planning involves laying out tentative survey tracklines,
determining the total survey mileage and the number of cores needed, and
scheduling the time needed to complete all field work. It is equally
important to schedule the field work at the most favorable season, since
offshore operations are especially affected by weather and sea conditions.
Existing dredge capabilities and economic hauling distances are significant
factors in planning a reasonable offshore limit for the survey. Presently,
surveys are terminated at either of 100-foot depths (MLW) or 10 miles off-
shore. The inshore termination depth is controlled by the safe operating
depth needed, generally about 15 feet. These limiting conditions are
guides only, and are often exceeded where local circumstances permit
extension of survey boundaries.

In laying out survey tracklines, the pattern and density of lines are
partly based on the need for sand in the area. If a large supply of sand
fill is needed and onshore sources are limited, a detailed survey will be
projected for the area even if information indicates only a marginal prob-
ability of finding a good offshore supply. In laying out lines near areas
where the current need for sand fill is light, the most detailed coverage
is given those regions where information indicates a promise of sand.

Basic trackline patterns used in the sand inventory surveys are
illustrated in Figure A-3. A navigation overlay of a completed survey
is shown in Figure A-2.

Grid patterns provide the most detailed coverage of an area and give
maximum data control. Normal grid spacing is 1 statute mile, however,
highly detailed seismic coverage of some sand deposits require much closer

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spacing. A less detailed trackline configuration is the “open rectangle'
pattern shown on the left side of Figure A-3. Spacing of parallel lines
may beat ly 2; or S miles. Evthes a ‘single pattern! is) used) or; two
patterns are crossed to produce a grid as illustrated. Segments between
grids or open rectangle surveys are covered by ''reconnaissance' lines
which are usually zigzag but may be altered to conform to shoreline and
inner shelf configuration. Reconnaissance lines are adequate for tracing
regional subbottom reflecting horizons between grids and for detecting
any large sediment accumulations crossed.

A few tentative core locations may be selected during the planning
stage, but most core sites are picked after the geophysical survey has
been run and the records examined. This allows for a better selection than
than one based on the generally meager information available during the
planning stage.

If field survey work is to be let on contract, flexibility is gained
by splitting the work into a minimum number of survey miles and cores and
optional incremental work (Figure A-3). At the: discretion of the Coastal
Engineering Research Center, the whole or any part of the optional work
may be subsequently ordered depending on the outcome of the minimum work.
The value of flexible planning was illustrated by a recent Sand Inventory
Survey in Long Island Sound. One grid area, near Bridgeport, Connecticut,
was selected primarily on the basis of a need for sand in that particular
place. After first survey results, it was apparent that prospects for
Suitable sand were not good in the grid area. However, a nearby recon-
naissance line indicated considerable sediment accumulation, and a single
core on the line revealed several feet of sand. Optional survey miles and
cores were available, and a small grid was constructed around the spot with
favorable indications. It was thus possible to delineate a sand deposit
that could provide the material needed in the Bridgeport area.

3. Survey Operations

Since most of the sand inventory work is within 10 miles of the
shore, the survey vessel need not be large, and accurate continuous posi-
tion control poses no special technical problems.

General practice in sand inventory surveys has been to run the
geophysical profiles for a limited area and then to study the records
before selecting core locations and prescribing optional work. Coring and
additional tracklines of geophysical data can then be completed, and the
vessel can go to work in the next area. This mode of operation permits
the contractor to shift his base along the coastline without being obliged
to return for cleanup work.

To identify the uppermost strata revealed by sonic profiles, it is
necessary to obtain samples of the material. This is done by coring
through the overburden, or by surface sampling if the subbottom reflectors
can be traced to an exposure. On the average, in CERC surveys, one core

has been taken for every 7 miles of geophysical survey. The cores are 3
or 4 inches in diameter, and are taken with a pneumatic vibrator-hammer
driving the coring device. Core length ranges from a few inches to 20
feet depending on the nature of the materials penetrated.

The average core length of about 12 feet is adequate for most sand
inventory purposes; however, for foundation work and for scientific pur-
poses, it is most desirable to sample deeper reflectors. At times deeper
reflectors can be sampled by routing tracklines around a site where deep
borings have been made in the past. For example, during sand inventory
surveys off Virginia and New York, lines run to the Chesapeake and Ambrose
light towers permitted use of data obtained in foundation studies made
for the construction of these towers. It is also frequently possible to
trace moderately deep reflectors on the geophysical profiles to points
where they crop out or come within range of the corer at a high point on
the reflector or a low point in the bottom.

4. Data Analysis

At the conclusion of field survey work all data must be
assembled for processing, analyzed, and reduced to a report detailing
the findings. The ultimate aim of each regional survey is to produce a
report, or series of reports, dealing with the location and nature of
sand deposits within the framework of a general exposition of pertinent
aspects of the regional geography and geology, bottom morphology, sedi-
ment distribution, and subbottom structure. The more immediate task,
however, is to provide Corps of Engineers District Offices for planning
purposes brief, informal reports concerning sand deposits in areas where
Federal Beach Erosion Control or Hurricane Protection projects are pending
or authorized.

a. Seismic Records

One of the most difficult problems associated with analysis
of a large quantity of seismic reflection profiles is their printout
size. A 9-inch wide record covering 10 miles of trackline may be 25 to
30 feet long. As many as 40 such records may be produced in one grid
area.

To lay out two or three of these records side by side for comparative
analysis is not only cumbersome, but requires considerable space. There
are several other difficulties which arise when comparing the raw records.
Parallel records in a grid set will have been run on opposing ship head-
-ings; consequently: the various bottom and subbottom features for adjacent
tracks are mutually reversed. Further, because of differences in the
vessel speed the horizontal scale is not constant either along a single
line or from line to line. An added problem arises with records run in
comparatively shallow water. If the water depth is less than the effec-
tive depth of subbottom penetration multiple reflections of bottom and
subbottom acoustic interfaces will be superimposed on the record and
may partially mask subbottom detail. Although the true reflectors can

generally be sorted out at a given point. of ambiguity, this interference
deteriorates the continuity of the overall view, and increases the diffi-
culty of comparative work. |

The problems of space and opposed headings can be partly resolved by
photographically reproducing records at a smaller scale. A more compre-
hensive method of achieving a manageable format is to ''reduce'' the records
to line profiles, such as shown in Figure A-4. This process consists of
delineating the acoustic interfaced lines on the record with pen, chalk
or some other marker and manually transferring these lines, point by point,
to a prepared graphic profile plot at reduced scale. In this process the
horizontal scale differences are resolved, all line directions are put in
the same sense, and the problem of multiple reflectors is eliminated. As
useful as this manner of presentation is, it would not do to rely entirely
on the line profiles since they-do not show the character of the signal or
the finer details of line configuration. It is necessary then to refer
periodically to the original records, and for this purpose photographic
reproductions are very useful.

b. Cores

Processing of sediment cores at CERC consists primarily of
visual description and granulometric analysis of material. Representative
samples are selected along the core at points determined by visual in-
spection through the clear plastic core liner. A hole is drilled in the
liner at these points, and about 80 grams of material are removed after
which the core is resealed by filling the hole with expanding foam plastic
and wrapping with plastic tape. Each sample is inspected under a binoc-
ular microscope, and visually classified for color, texture, and gross
mineralogy. Granulometric analysis of all sand-sized material is made
with a modified Woods Hole-type rapid sediment analyzer (Ziegler, et al,
1960, and Schlee, 196 ), an instrument which provides size distribution
data related to hydraulic diameters of equivalent spheres. The size
analysis data is produced on both an analog recorder and on punched cards.

The cards are processed by computer for printout of granulometric statis-
tical measures such as mean diameter, median diameter, standard deviation,
skewness, and kurtosis.

A-10

0 = = = = Meon Low Woler

Fort Lauderdale -Palm Beach North

Mean Low Woler

SS

Fort Lauderdale -Palm Beach South

0 = = = = Mean Low Wolter

Miami - Fort Lauderdale

° = = = = -——Mean Low Woter

Miami Grid —

Figure A-4. Reduced seismic reflection profile data.

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CORE DATA AND SEDIMENT DESCRIPTION

Appendix B contains graphic size distribution plots and visual
description of sediments contained in cores from the study area.

Size distribution curves for selected samples are identified by
notations on each curve showing depth of sample below the water-
sediment interface.

Visual descriptions are based on both megascopic and microscopic

examination. The descriptive statement generally contains (in order)
the following elements:

1. Color descriptor
2. Color code per Munsell Soil Color Charts (1954 ed.)*
3. Dominant size or size range.

4. Major compositional element or elements with the
dominant constituent listed last.

5. A phrase identifying readily recognized constituent elements
with an estimated percentage occurrence in terms of total
particles.

Described subdivisions of the core are indicated by limiting lines
drawn across the graphic scale to the left of the descriptions. The
hachured line shows the depth to the bottom of the hole.

*Munsell Color Company, Inc., Munsell Soil Color Charts, 1954 Edition,
Baltimore, Maryland.

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GRANULOMETRIC ANALYSES

SEDIMENT DESCRIPTION

Core Interval Median Mean Standard
No. (feet) 0) mm. ) mm. Deviation Skewness Kurtosis

1 0 DsTQ WAS 2.56 .169 a7 = BS 2.50
1 A ilplOs .A66 sO 882 1.04 15 DB Dik
3 LGD 2.626 1286 880 1.01 =.i10 2.63
3.5 172 800 LoS. S86 92 -.16 2.95
2 0 1,07 475 Io AAP 7a Si 2.36
2 82 8565 AO2 a2 74 nel 3.04
3 0 1.30 .405 1452 “S99 .60 .19 2.36
1.5 595 526 596 514 81 .24 2D. 78
4 0 2.08 245 208 4287 63 64 2.96
0 187 886 1,60 S80 .68 04 B.D
1 1.33 5898 1A? 236i .95 -.09 2.63
3 155) 6345 WAS 4870 95 = 06 2.14
6 115911) 3532 1,69 810 91 =508 3.58
7 1.89 330i 1s 27 aS 1.01 .25 Des
6 0 BAG 5222 209 . 284 59 =. 110 2.42
3 17S 502 GY ssis 82 PA 2.49
7 0 178.20 79290 . 68 alle 2.60
1 1.00 .500 1.20 .485 Bil 5877 3.12
2 AO 379 1.44 .369 1.06 -.44 3.35
3 1.79 .290 17a. 300 95 S542 2.94
4 Le 27 Ala 149 855 87 525 2.16
5 M66 3812 1.62 826 92 =. Di 228
6 118 458 Lo ANZ 92 .59 2.43
7 .60 .658 136 .550 .67 1.41 4.07
8 Sh 6728 .60 .660 .70 1.49 5.00
8 0 140 379 1.48 .358 87 .59 DTT
2 580 .707 168) 622 a8 1.58 - 6.75
4 582 567 1.07 avy .88 LSI 4.63
9 0 1.03 .488 Len7? AAS .70 78 5 2A
1 .59 .664 72 «606 578 1.33 5.49

SEDIMENT DESCRIPTION

Core Interval Median Mean Standard
Nos (feet) 0) mm. p mm. Deviation Skewness Kurtosis
2 -65 .636 -89 .539 1.05 o Dd 2.88
10 0 Qe ASS 1.34 .394 -99 -.05 Bo Oil
1 S450 1.20 .437 .90 -.19 2.60
11 0 589) o5s9 1.14 .455 W719 . 89 2.91
0.8 DON O16 .68 .624 ofS HOS 3.49
eZ 8,08 ol22 2323 4205 1.08 -.73 1.82
12 0 2.04 .244 WEY — 6AS7/ . 60 -.01 2.47
1 Is58- oSAly/ 48 558 195 ales Do BP
3 593 36525 1.14 £455 1.04 . 60 2S A\i
7 sll 6O55 685 >6o97/ . 86 ey29 4.43
13 0 1.90 .268 1.82 .284 ES -.10 DoS
2 Za08i 256 1398 6255 . 63 -.16 2.39
3 1.45 .366 LQSO SOO 1.08 -.19 2.45
6 1352 oAbOi 1.46 .362 1.04 -46 2.00
8.5 1.09 .469 1o38 SOS 698 .74 2.58
14 O ZAOSM 245 tO OleyZ69 571 -.33 2.34
2 sll 9572 1,O@Z s49il . 88 555) 2.41
5 5 4 557/ 1.01 .496 . 84 -74 3.04
15 (0) Boil oA 2.06 .240 .56 -.33 2.66
iL 188 oZ/Z LoD oZils oS -.12 2.45
6 Io/S 9 2O7 1.70 .308 .76 eS) Bola
16 0 ofl Olli -87 .546 639 .67 3.26
1 5SS 6 187 530 © GO7/7/ 81 .50 3.03
2 2 OILS SUNS 7Ar/ 5 V2 SZ 6.54
6 087 a IV2 ssl 6/00 -69 . 80 4.20
17 0 SOMO OS OS9 6 i .74 3.03
1 -58 .667 .73 +.601 .65 1, BS 5.03
2 242) 3750 -66 .631 .81 eS 5 Sepa
3 050 6/08 2 O08 . 67 1.91 5.68
5 -65 .635 -84 .560 .78 1.36 5.80

SEDIMENT DESCRIPTION

Core Interval Median Mean Standard
No. (feet) 0) mm. 0) mm. Deviation Skewness Kurtosis
17 6 72 O05 590 S57 .90 .36 3.47
1 207 2.046 1.03 -.491 . 83 5o8) 3. 59
8 l,05 .49i 1,23 .425 .74 > 79 2.78
18 0 63 aGNe 90 834 a 85 126 4.14
i 685 0 STT ..67 .630 5 Mil 1.55 SEZs
3 SI -69 .618 1.00 IOS 3.87
19 0 TZO 49 LoAZ ,428 ~ .69 -.05 DMS
5 105 sObH o 90 537 1.01 . 87 3.32
7 1,58 835 le52 S48 > 6 Bll - 20 2.69
20 0 Bol oBzZl Boi) BSS ~o4 -.24 2.04
2 2BMZ 2380 2.08 2386 s4 .17 3.34
5 Lo74 =5 SOO Lo7O oS0S -58 = 25) Zo 55)
21 0 234,97 ZO s2O2 5 Ail -.32 2.61
4 2o2l 2G 2UY BBP 45 -.11 Bid
22 0 N68 6 SilZ LsOl S27 67 -.25 221
1 Lo SS cdSO Leo ~SZil 6 (SY) .16 Lo QZ
2 1oS2 AO 1.40 .380 5 I> 5 Ok 2.38
3 144-369 LAS S59 74 5 5)// 55 IO)
4 Lo59 ~d82 oO SZ .59 nei, 2.70
7 1.69 .310 1.69 .310 oe . 39 2.58
10 1,684.27 e832 .B3s2Z -49 -.05- Qo SI
23 0 IoQ4 ~ASil LoS BIS .60 -.24 2528
3 LoOS5 «S23 Lo4®, oSs7/ -81 -.08 1.86
5 toed 5Z30 1e7Q. .Z89 61 -.05 Ao NS
24 0 Lo80 s2B7 1o7/38 s290 55 -.10 2.40
1 1,830 237 lo/8 «ZOO 5 OS) -.05 2.38
9 LoS SSO IeOS .Sz .65 095) 4.01
SS 1,58 «SSA ISS oss! .53 -20 DAS
25 0 533 a SO7/ IS 598 ofZ 5UZ 2.66
1 5559

-23 .854 050 5B -46 -49

SEDIMENT DESCRIPTION

Core Interval Median Mean Standard
No. _ (feet) 0) mm. () mm. Deviation Skewness Kurtosis
25 2 40 «759 .63 .648 off a, 255
5 off 6S86 080) (HS 567 .65 3.03
9 WS .ASil 16283 oAb27/ -62 .70 3.29
26 0 2o8S on IMO Boks oA05 .48 -.30 ZoIO
1 Bol Ale Doll 227 .ol -.40 2.70
27A 0 AsO) ASS Aol jilos oy -.04 3.63
1 2598 oilGZ Bel AO -30 Soil 2.94
4 AHO oiI7O 2.46 182 539 -.34 DoS)
7.8 A500) oI@S 2552. oil74 44 -.66 3.02
29 0 Bob olBO 2083 oIlQ2 46 oll 3.07
3 Bo 2 ZS e226 .59 -.38 2.34
30 0 DoW) ollSY 2.60 .165 -40 -.50 SolG
9 DOB og lO 2oS8 ollO7/ .35 02 2.89
31 2 2olS 5228 208 s2AP .65 .06 Bote
7 1397 =. 255 oO —ASs .58 = ol 2.26
10 IoOQ .asZ HY 257 .61 .O1 3.08

Rie

il
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Ree, ake

XJ) 1) 18) IN WD) IL Ok ID)

GEOPHYSICAL DATA

Appendix contains cross-section line profiles of the
study based on seismic reflection profiles. Hachured lines
represent the bedrock reflection. Solid lines show the bottom
and strong subbottom reflectors. Dashed lines show weak
reflectors. Ambiguous or very weak reflection surfaces are —
shown by a dash-dot line.

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UNCLASSIFIED

Security Classification

DOCUMENT CONTROL DATA-R&D

(Security classification of title, body of abstract and indexing annotation must be entered when the overall report is classified
- ORIGINATING ACTIVITY (Corporate author) 2a. REPORT SECURITY CLASSIFICATION

Coastal Engineering Research Center UNCLASSIFIED
Corps of Engineers, Department of the Army
Washington, D. C. 20016

- REPORT TITLE
GEOMORPHOLOGY AND SEDIMENTS OF THE NEARSHORE CONTINENTAL SHELF, MIAMI TO
PALM BEACH, FLORIDA

- DESCRIPTIVE NOTES (Type of report and inciusive dates)

+ AUTHOR(S) (First name, middle initial, last name)
David B. Duane
Edward P. Meisburger

6. REPORT DATE va. TOTAL NO. OF PAGES 7b. NO. OF REFS

November 1969 120 36

8a. CONTRACT OR GRANT NO. Sa. ORIGINATOR’S REPORT NUMBERIS)

b. PROJECT NO. TECHNICAL MEMORANDUM NO. 29

9b. OTHER REPORT NO(S) (Any other numbers that may be asalgned
thie report)

10. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT
This document has been approved for public release and sale; its distribution
is unlimited.

- SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 12. SPONSORING MILITARY ACTIVITY

- ABSTRACT
The Continental Shelf bordering southeastern Florida between Palm Beach and
Miami was surveyed by CERC to locate and evaluate sand deposits potentially useable
for shore protection projects. Survey data covered 141 square miles of that part
of the Continental Shelf between 15- and 100-foot depths, and consisted of seismic
reflection profiles and sediment cores from the sea floor.

South of Boca Raton to Miami, much of the shelf is rocky with a thin sediment
veneer. Relatively thick deposits of sediment have accumulated locally in troughs
formed between low reef-like ridges lying parallel to shore. Shelf sediments south
of Boca Raton consist almost entirely of sand-size calcareous skeletal fragments.

North of Boca Raton to Palm Beach, most of the shelf is overlain by a thick
blanket deposit of homogeneous fine-to-medium, gray sand about half of which
consists of quartz particles and the remainder of calcareous skeletal fragments.
About 200 million cubic yards of sand-size sediment occurs on the shelf south of
Boca Raton. Although generally suitable for beach fill in terms of size, degradation
of size by abrasion and fragmentation of the delicate particles may occur in the
shore environment.

More than 380 million cubic yards of sand-size sediment lies on the shelf north
of Boca Raton. However, because of its fine size, this sand is not considered
ideally suited for beach fill. In terms of potential as beach sand, sand-size
sediments from-the shelf bordering southeastern Florida is of marginal quality.

DD rr .14 73 Sstocere Fon ata sa “A 8 Mmicn UNCLASSIFIED
Security Classification

UNCLASSIFIED
Security Classification

5 RE SORES RE SS SZ SE

KEY WORDS

Artificial beach nourishment
Beach sediments

Continental Shelf

Miami to Palm Beach, Florida
Seismic profiles

Sea bottom cores

PS TART ESE ISEB RP ZOE I TS SS TIT SEY

UNCLASSIFIED

Security Classification

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ze 2) ; S 2
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