HARVARD UNIVERSITY

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Goldfish Varieties

and Tropical
Aquarium Fishes

A Complete Guide
to Aquaria and
Related Subjects

WILLIAM T. INNES

FORMER PRESIDENT OF THE AQUARIUM SOCIETY OF PHILADELPHIA

INNES & SONS

Publishers
PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A.

Copyrighted by Innes & Sons
1917

Rights of Reproduction and Translation
Reserved

CONTENTS

Page

Author's Preface 4

Chapter One : The Freshwater Aquarium 5

" Two : Goldfish Varieties 19

Three: Judging Goldfish Competitions 39

Four : Propagation of the ( Joldfish 47

Five : Wholesale Breeding 61

Six: Some Hardy Native Freshwater Fishes.... 69
Seven : Alphabetical List of Aquarium Fishes, Their

Breeding Habits, Care, Etc 83

Eight : Tropical Aquaria 101

" Nine : Marine Aquaria 109

Ten : Terraria and Aqua-Terraria 119

Eleven : Fishfoods 127

Twelve: The Microscope in Aquarium Work 139

Thirteen : Diseases and Their Treatment 143

" Fourteen : Enemies of Aquarium Fishes 155

Fifteen : Plants for the Aquarium and Pond 163

Sixteen : Photographing Fishes 205

Seventeen : Construction of Aquaria, Tanks, Etc 211

" Eighteen : Aquarium Appliances 227

Nineteen : Forty Don'ts 235

List of Illustrations and Their Sources 238

Bibliography 242

Cross Index 244

AUTHOR'S PREFACE

There is perhaps no other means of bringing so complete a bit of
Nature into our very homes as that afforded by the aquarium. Here we
have opportunity for the student, the artist, the scientist and for those
who simply love pets. Modern research, by the discovery of a few simple
principles, has enabled us to absolutely reproduce the conditions of
aquatic Nature, so that now we may have, at first hand, an intimate
kno^\•ledge of much of that mysterious life of the water-world. Through
the glass of the aquarium we have a window where that which we see
is only limited by our own capacity for observation.

Although interest in aquaria has undergone a great awakening in the
past few years, the public in general is still ignorant of the correct prin-
ciples of aquarium management, and of the wonderful accomplishments
of the breeders of fancy fishes. In addition to the extraordinary goldfish
forms there are now available for our purposes over 300 other kinds of
aquarium fishes. These, with other aquatic animals and a wide range of
plants give us a great wealth of material from which to choose.

It is the aim of the author and the publishers to present in simple yet
comprehensive form a practical digest of all available information on the
subject. This, it is hoped, will be of real value to the intelligent aquarist
and at the same time give the general public a clearer idea of possibilities
under proper management, so that an aquarium will no longer be merely
something which must be perpetually re-stocked with fishes, but an endless
source of pleasant and profitable observation.

The illustrations used are, in nearly all cases, either drawn or photo-
graphed from life, thus establishing records which should be of value for
present or future reference.

In the preparation of this volume the author has received valued
assistance from leading specialists, breeders and general experts including
the distinguished head of the United States Bureau of Fisheries, Dr.
Hugh M. Smith. Special acknowledgment for generous co-operation is
tendered Dr. E. Bade, Mr. Franklin Barrett, Dr. Herman Burgin, Mr,
Wm. H. De Nyse, Mr. Richard Dorn, Mr. Henry W. Fowler, Mr. Joseph
Froelich, Mr. Frank J. Myers, Mr. Wm. L. Paullin, Mr. W. A. Poyser,
:\Ir. Fred. Schaefer, Dr. C. H. Townsend and Mr. Charles E. Visel. Mr.
W. L. Brind should receive credit for his assistance in the preparation
of the list of Exotic Fishes, his knowledge and specialized technique
as a translator proving of particular value.

Chapter One

The Freshwater Aquarium

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

AQUARIUM MANAGEMENT

The principles involved in successful aquarium management are
really simple, and if applied success is bound to follow. The common
goldfish is a very hardy pet, and with proper handling should live from
ten to twenty years. Yet we hear of numerous failures, and there are
many who would like to keep an aquarium but refrain from doing so
because of two erroneous ideas: first, that goldfish are delicate; second,
that an aquarium requires frequent cleaning. The main causes for
failure, in the order of their importance, are :

Overcrowding

Overfeeding

Sudden temperature changes

Lack of proper plant life

Insufficient lighting.

Overcrowding. A great many unscrupulous and short-sighted
dealers, in order to increase sales, recommend the use of more fish than
should properly be put into an aquarium of given size. The beginner
also wishes to have as many fishes as possible, so that this is one of the
greatest difficulties to overcome. The proper rule is this : One inch
OF FISH TO ONE GALLON OF WATER. That is, in a tcn-gallon aquarium
of the usual oblong shape, well planted and in a good light, one could
successfully keep ten one-inch fish, or five two-inch or two five-inch fish.
Successful aquarists adhere to this rule, and for some of the fancy and
more delicate varieties, even more water per fish is allowed. The beginner
will do well to do likewise and disregard all advice to the contrary. If
already stocked with too many fish, some of them should be disposed of
or a larger aquarium secured. Should the fish get into poor condition
from overcrowding it will be difficult to save any of them.

Gasping. When the fishes persist in coming to the top and gasping
air, it is usually a sign that they are overcrowded or that the water has
become bad from some kind of decomposition. The trouble should be
quickly found and remedied before the fish become seriously affected or
perhaps suffocate. A partial change of water or the removal of some of
the fish will usually improve matters. Sometimes the condition is pro-
duced by a dead snail or mussel, or again from the decomposition of
uneaten food.

Overfeeding. Many people kill their fish by kindness. Whenever
the fish seem hungry they are fed. This is a very great mistake. In

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

Nature the food is scarce and difficult to get. Therefore the fish have
to exercise themselves in procuring it. In the small confines and artificial
conditions of the household aquarium, less food can be properly digested,
for fishes, like men, suffer from indigestion, but with quicker and more
fatal results. Fish should never, on any account be fed more than will
be consumed at once. (This does not apply in raising young fish.) If
any food is left after five minutes, they have been overfed and the surplus
should be removed with a dip-tube. (See Chapter on Aquarium Appli-
ances.) In summer or at any time when the water is at 60 degrees or
higher, it is allowable to feed daily. Should the water range from 55
degrees to 60 degrees, every other day is sufficient, and when it is from
40 degrees to 55 degrees, feedings separated by about three to six days,
will keep them in good condition. An exact scale is difficult to establish,
partly because fish, under one year of age, can assimilate more food than
old ones, and partly because the temperature in an aquarium varies at
different hours in the day. The foregoing scale will give a very good
working basis, to be followed with a certain amount of personal judg-
ment. Let it be said there is practically no danger of starving a fish, the
errors being almost altogether on the other side. A correspondent once
wrote the author that she kept a fish for seventeen years, and in that
time had fed it on rice wafers once a week only. The matter of feeding
fish is a difficult point to correctly impress on the mind of the general
public. When the fish swim coaxingly to the near side of the aquarium
it is a great temptation to feed them whether it is their meal time or not,
but those who love their pets will do them a far greater kindness by
depriving them until the usual feeding hour.

Changing the Water. If for any reason it becomes necessary to
change the water, there is one very important thing to keep in mind —
do not subject the fishes to any sudden change of temperature, either
higher or lower. This is one of the most frequent causes of sickness and
eventual death.

With the foregoing conditions carefully observed and carried out
there should be no need to change water except at rare intervals, when the
aquarium gets dingy looking or overcrowded with plants. Experienced
aquarists replant about once a year, occasionally adding water to make
up for evaporation.

The fish are stimulated and probably benefited by changing a small
part of the water every few days. From one-fifth to one-tenth of the
total volume should be sufficient. If the aquarium is in proper condition
and not overcrowded, even this slight changing of water is not necessary.
However, it can do no harm and may do good.

In cases of overcrowding, a partial change of water should be made

8 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A:N-D

daily, the amount depending on the degree of overcrowding. Here, again,
a Httle personal judgment should come into play.

A sprinkling pot is excellent for adding water to the aquarium. The
small streams oxygenate the water well and do not disturb the contents
of the aquarium.

If running water is used, a very tiny stream will be sufficient. Fish
used to running water when placed in still water should at first be given
ample room.

Plant Life. Fish live by absorbing oxygen, and they give off carbon
dioxide as the waste product of their chemical life. Plants, under the
influence of light, do the exact opposite, so that what is poison to one is
life to the other. This explains why healthy plants are so desirable, and
accounts for the phrase "balanced aquarium," because there is a self-
maintaining interchange established.

Still water takes up a certain amount of oxygen from the air. The
fishes, however, consume more oxygen than can be supplied in this
manner, and if oxygen-liberating plants are not used the fishes become
restless, come to the surface to breathe the air, and may finally die of
suffocation unless the water is changed.

The term "balanced aquarium" is not accurately descriptive, as an
exact balance is never maintained. In practise we always endeavor to
have the oxygenating element the more active, since any excess of oxygen
goes off harmlessly into the air, while an excess of the poisonous carbon
dioxide cannot be quickly taken up by the plant life. A more correct
term might be "reciprocating aquarium."

Aquarium Plants. Different plants have varjang powers of pro-
ducing oxygen. It is therefore well to bear this in mind when making a
selection for planting. Purely ornamental plants are desirable only after
a fully sufficient quantity of the oxygen-producers have been provided.
In the order of their oxygenating powers we would name, Anacharis,
Vallisneria, Sagittaria, Nitella, Bacopia, Fontinalis, Potamogeton,
Ludwigia and others, which will be more fully described later.

Light. As just stated, plants require light in order to do their work.
Select for the aquarium a place close to a window with a good, strong
light, preferably one where it will get about two hours of direct sun a
day. In hot weather one should be careful not to overheat a small aqua-
rium in the sun. A range of between 50 and 75 degrees F. is safe.

Green water is caused by the presence of a microscopic form of vege-
table life suspended in the water. Their growth is usually promoted by
a combination of too much direct sunlight and a large number of fish in
the aquarium. There are several ways of clearing the water. First change
it, add a few fresh-water mussels, cut down the light by use of tissue paper

TEOPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES

or other means, take some fish out of the aquarium. To clear the water
chemically, add one grain by weight of permanganate of potash (dis-
solved) to each gallon of aquarium water. This will turn the water first
a lavender, and then a brownish color for a few days, after which it will
clear up. Unless the original conditions are changed, however, the water
will soon again become green. Before using this chemical remove all
snails and mussels. Goldfish can withstand the strength of the solution
recommended, and probably be benefitted if suffering from any form of
fungus. (See Chapter on Diseases.) Other fishes do not stand this
chemical so well. Green water, while unsightly, is not unwholesome.
On the contrary, a sick fish is often cured by being transferred to a tank
of green water. Live daphnia will clear water in a few da\s.

How to Know When the Fishes are Sick. The first signal of
distress in most fish is the drooping of the dorsal (back) fin. This fin
should be carried stiff and upright. When the fish is sick its movements
are sluggish and it often seeks a quiet corner in which to hide. In some
of the fancy varieties the dorsal fin is so overdeveloped that the fish even
in health has not sufficient strength to hold it erect. When such fish are
ill their fins become more or less stiff, losing flexibility. Fins should be
clear and clean-cut. When they become thick-looking, opaque, lined with
red veins, overcast with red, blooshot at base of fins, or ragged and split,
the fish is in need of attention. (See Chapter on Diseases.) Another
sign of poor condition is thinness of the body. The excrement of fishes
in health is usually of a dark color. When it is pale, dotted with gas
bubbles, and of slimy appearance, the fish is apt to be out of condition.

Sick Fishes. It is always safer to remove an affected fish from its
fellows. If the trouble is a contagious one, the aquarium or tank should
be thoroughly disinfected, not overlooking the plants in this matter. For
all practical purposes they can be sterilized by placing for one hour in a
permanganate of potassium solution, 3 grains by weight to the gallon of
water. Satisfactory- results will also be given by dipping plants for a few
moments in concentrated lime water. Either of these methods should be
applied to all new plants introduced into the aquarium, especially those
collected from the wild, or from aquaria of doubtful condition. In case
of an aquarium becoming contaminated it can be disinfected by dissolving
in it permanganate of potash to the strength already indicated, allowing
it to stand from two to three hours, first removing all mussels, snails and
fishes. In changing back to clear water again it will do no harm if a
little of the permanganate solution remains.

Unless newly acquired fishes come from a source beyond suspicion
it is a grave risk to introduce them at once into an established aquarium
of healthy fish. They should first be quarantined and carefully observed

10 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A:^TD

for about two weeks, this being particularly true of imported goldfishes.
They may already be inoculated with diseases only in process of incu-
bation, but which will nevertheless develop.

Chemical Depletion of Water. Constant absorption of minerals
from the water by plants and fishes makes a condition which should be
provided for. This can be done by the occasional addition of salts. Make
a mixture of three parts of evaporated sea salt (Turk's Island Salt), and
one part Epsom salts. About once in two or three weeks a level teaspoon-
full to 20 gallons of water will prove beneficial. Usually the fishes will
greedily swallow these salts as they sink to the bottom, which acts as a
mild cathartic with them.

The decomposition of plants, etc., sets up an acid condition in the
aquarium, which is not good for the fish and which causes most of the
crumbling noticed on the shells of snails. Ten drops of lime water to the
gallon of aquarium water will neutralize any ordinary acid condition, but
a better method is to keep a small piece of Plaster of Paris in the aquarium.
In dissolving, it neutralizes the acid, but as it only dissolves under acid
conditions, there is no danger of getting the water too alkaline. If the
Plaster of Paris dissolves quickly it is a sign of pronounced acid condi-
tion. We w'ould call two weeks a short time in which to dissolve a piece
half the size of a shellbark in a 20-gallon aquarium. Pieces of gypsum
will perform the same function, but more slowly.

Pieces of coral, sea-shells, etc., look out of place in a fresh-water
aquarium, and many of them are sufficiently rough to injure the fishes if
they chance to be knocked against them.

A Word to Beginners. It is much the better plan to start with a few
fishes of the hardier varieties until the rudiments of aquarium keeping are
well understood. If one can keep common goldfishes in perfect health
and experience practically no losses, then it is time to branch out into the
more varied and interesting breeds. Some beginners, having more enthu-
siasm than experience, lose valuable fishes at the start and turn away in
disgust from a fancy that, if properly understood, would have afiforded
them many hours of pleasant recreation.

Aeration. In Nature there is always
sufficient plants or air surface to keep the fish
well supplied with oxygen, but in the aqua-
rium, particularly on dark days when the
plants give off little oxygen, it is impossible
t« keep the fish from coming to the surface
without the help of some artificial means.
This is best accomplished by means of com-
Air Pump pressed air liberated at the bottom of the

TROPICAL AQITARIIT:\[ FISHES U

aquarium. As the air passes through tlie water there is sufficient oxygen
absorbed to keep the fish always in good condition. This is also very
helpful to the fish at night.

There are many varieties of pumps that can be used for this purpose,
but the cheapest and most satisfactory are those which are operated by
water power. The type known as "beer pumps" are the best. These oper-
ate on a very simple principle, having a minimum of working parts and
therefore little to get out or order. Air is forced out of an air-chamber
by the entrance of water. When the air is all expelled, an internal float
stops the supply of water and starts a siphon working which empties the
pump preparatory to the next filling. As this operation takes about a
minute it is advisable to have a small storage tank for the air to pass
through in order to equalize the flow. A very small stream of air run-
ning through the aquarium will keep the water sweet even though the
aquarium is somewhat overcrowded. Overcrowding, however, is not to
be encouraged at any time.

The air should be liberated in as small bubbles as possible. Libera-
tors are made especially for this purpose, but a good home-made plan is to
place a piece of bass wood or other open grained wood in the end of a
tube to force the air through it. In case the liberator becomes clogged up,
allow it to dry out for a day or two.

An air pump may also be used to operate a filter for the aquarium
or to make a fountain without the use of water other than that already
in the aquarium. (See Chapter on Aquarium Appliances.)

Scavengers. Xature has supplied us with means of getting rid of
most of the harmful offal and decomposition in the aquarium. These con-

FiG. 2. African Fig. 3. Japanese Ph.. 4. Red Ramshorn

The Three Best Freshwater Aquarium Snails {Life size)

sist largely of those species of snails that do not attack the plants. Among
the best known, most satisfactory and easily obtained are the large Japan-
ese snails {Viviparous mallcatns), the so-called African paper shelled

12 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AXD

snail (Lymuaea auricnlaria) and the red variety of the European Rams-
horn Snail (Flanorbis corneous). These are all active in eating vegetable
growth from the glass or particles of food which the fish have not taken,
and in no case will they injure any of the aquarium plants. The Japanese
snails are very interesting in that they bring forth fully developed young
about the size of a pea. These snails are male and female, but a female
once impregnated seems, like a queen bee, to remain fertile for the
remainder of her life. The right horn of the male is somewhat the longer,
this serving a sexual purpose. These snails are quite long-lived and grow
to the size of a large walnut. Another snail resembling the Japanese
species is the Potomac snail. This has two brown stripes on a horn-
colored background running with the spiral. It is quite attractive and is
frequently sold as the Japanese snail, but it is sluggish and should not be
crossed with the Japanese. The latter can be identified by the slightly
raised keels showing on the last spiral. The paper shelled snail is very
prettily marked with brown spots on a horn-colored background, and is
an extremely rapid breeder, but is of short life. The young hatching
from the spawn of these snails make a food regarded by the fish as a
delicacy, as is evidenced by the fact that none of these snails ever get
beyond the early stages of development if kept among the fi'sh. It is
therefore apparent that to breed these snails successfully they need to
be kept by themselves until the young are about half grown. With the
Japanese snails no such precaution is necessary, as the young are fur-
nished with a fairly hard shell at the time they emerge.

The European Red or Coral Snail (Planorbis corneous) is a recent
introduction and is unique on account of the bright red coral color of
the body. When seen in the sunlight this snail is quite an added attrac-
tion to the appearance to an artistic aquarium, and is an active worker.
The snail is easily bred if the young are kept away from fish. In breed-
ing snails in small aquara or receptacles it is desirable to give them some
extra food. Rice wafers, powdered fish food of almost any variety, let-
tuce leaves dried and powdered, boiled oatmeal or raw cream of wheat
will serve the purpose. Eggs are deposited on plants and glass, and do
best at from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

To those interested in identifying species of native snails we would
recommend a very excellent work published by the State Department of
Public Education at Albany, N. Y,, entitled "A Monograph on the Snails
of New York State," by H. A. Pilsbry. The book is profusely illustrated
in color and to all practical purposes covers the species east of the
Rockies.

The frog tadpole has been used by many as an aquarium scavenger,
but its value is of considerable doubt. They dash about the aquarium

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

13

in an aimless manner, keeping the water stirred up and the natural sedi-
ment agitated. Furthermore, they soon learn to eat fish food and, after
that step in education, they refuse to consume the less desirable particles
found in an aquarium occupied by fish.

Another scavenger is the fresh water mussel. The chief value of the
mussel is to keep down the vegetable growth which causes aquarium water
to turn green. Mussels are equipped with a sort of siphon arrangement,

Fig. 5. Freshwater Mussel, Showing Water Intake and Outlet ; Also "Foot"
With Which They Burrow and Travel

by which they suck in water in one opening and eject it from another.
In the few moments which they hold the water they extract from it the
floating vegetable organisms. Two or three mussels should keep a ten-
gallon aquarium free of green water. Care should be taken to occas-
ionally see whether the mussels are living, as they decompose very rapidly
and spoil the aquarium water. This can be done by tapping lightly on the
shell and seeing whether they respond by closing.

A curious but useful scavenger is an eel-like fish called the Weather-
fish. \'arieties are native to Europe and Asia. They are freely imported

Fig. 6. The Weatheri-ish (Cnbitis fossilis)

and inexpensive. When not scouring the aquarium bottom for bits of
decomposing matter, they sometimes burrow into the sand, leaving only
the head exposed, producing a quaint appearance. In their special occu-
pation as scavengers they employ a method which is both effectual and
interesting. The dirt and top sand are taken in the mouth and rapidly
shot out through the gills. Any particle of food considered edible is
automatically separated from the bulk of the dirt and swallowed.

14 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AKD

Another scavenger fish is the Sacchobranchus fossilis. This fish has
a head like a catfish and an elongated body like an eel. Both of these
scavengers are harmless to other fish, but should not be used when over
five inches long as they stir up the water too much.

Goldfish keep the sand loose and in good condition by picking it
up in their mouths, but most other aquarium fishes do not touch it, which
allows it to cake and become permanently dirty. The Weather-fish is
most excellent to introduce with such fishes, even a single small one
keeping the sand in a large aquarium loose on the top.

Aquarium Covers. It is a popular idea that a free access of air to
the aquarium is essential to the welfare of the fishes, but this is not so,
particularly if there is a liberal plant growth. A glass cover, raised about
a quarter inch, promotes a more luxuriant growth of plants, keeps the
surface of the water free of dust or bubbles, prevents objects from acci-
dentally falling in the aquarium, keeps the fishes from leaping out and our
friend the cat from fishing in. Wire gauze, properly secured, will serve
the latter purposes.

With tropical fishes the glass cover should rest directly on the aqua-
rium or jar, with no intervening space. This keeps the water a few-
degrees warmer. Furthermore, there are a number of tropical fishes
which can leap through a very small opening. This they are most apt
to do when newly placed in an aquarium or otherwise disturbed. Our
wild native fishes have an increased tendency to leap as the breeding sea-
son approaches, this characteristic being shared in by the single-tail gold-
fish.

PLANTING

Planting is usually done directly in the sand or grit. Some aquarists
prefer planting in miniature pots so that when it is desired to clean the
aquarium it will not be necessary to uproot the plants. In potting plants
in this manner a few pebbles should be placed in the bottom of the pot
and then a layer of soil, preferably from the bottom of a pond. Spread
the roots well into the soil and then cover with about one-half inch of
sand, so that the earth cannot become free and cloud the aquarium water.
As a rule, it is not advisable to use any soil in planting the aquarium
itself.

The first operation in planting an aquarium is to see that the sand
or grit is thoroughly clean. This can only be brought about by a long
and thorough washing. After the water runs clear from the sand, spread
the bottom of the aquarium to a depth of, say, half an inch. Next fill
with about two inches of water. Now take the roots of Sagittaria,

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

Vallisneria. or other rooted plants, and spread them out well. (See
chapter on Plants.) After the proper arrangement of plants is made,
add from an inch to two inches of sand and pebbles, being- careful not to
completely cover any of the leaves. Now fill the aquarium and with a
slender stick lift up any leaves which have been held down by the sand.
After the leaves have been brought into an upright position, take hold
of them and pull upwards until the crown of the plant comes just to the
surface of the sand. Aquatic plants with crowns seem to do better if
the crown is not quite covered. The crown is the point from which the
leaves put out.

Care should be taken in planting not to allow the leaves to become
even partially dry. This can be accomplished by frequent sprinkling,
and the work should be completed as rapidly as possible.

Bunches of Cabomba, Anacharis and other plants, can be added last.
These need to be weighted dow^n with bits of lead or tin wire. In filling
the aquarium it is a good plan to place a piece of paper in the center of
the aquarium and let the water strike on this. By this method the plants
will not be seriously disturbed. The use of a watering pot for filling will
also prevent any serious disturbance of the planting. The aquarium
should be allowed to stand at least a day before the fish are introduced;
but a week would be better, so that the plants may become active in time
to be of real use to the fish.

The use of pebbles only in the bottom of an aquarium is not to be
recommended, because particles of food may fall between the stones
where neither the fish nor snails can reach them, and the decomposition
thus set up is liable to foul the water.

Testing Aquaria. Before putting plants or sand in the aquarium
it is well to test its tightness. More often than not the larger sizes leak
after removing or standing dry. These leaks can usually be corrected in
a few days by filling with very muddy water, stirring it occasionally.

Fish Globes. Ignorance is responsible for most barbarity, and one
of the commonest forms of both is the keeping of fishes in globes. The
globe is in every way opposed to the correct principles of aquarium-
keeping. When it is filled, the air surface of the water is extremely small
in proportion to the bulk of water. The convex form acts as a lens to
perpetually focus light into the eyes of the fish. Even the side light of a
straight-side aquarium is known to be less desirable than top-lighting in an
opaque tank. What then must be the eflfect of a focused side-light? A
proper plant growth in a small globe is almost impossible. All of these
evils are multiplied by the apparently universal over-crowding in these

16 GOLDFISH VARIETIES ANB

little prisons, and by the frequent pollutions of the water by overfeeding.
As these globes are the cheapest form of aquarium, it seems as though
they are destined to remain with us, but the public could be educated in
the rudiments of handling them- — not to overcrowd nor overfeed, nor fill
to the top, nor stand in the summer sun ; and to establish growing plants.
If this point can be reached it is a step to the abandonment of the "globe"
for a real aquarium, where the chances of success are so much greater.

Removing Dust and Scum. When the aquarium has no cover glass
or when there is a considerable decomposition of old plants there is
sometimes a scum formed on top of the water. To remove this tear a
piece of newspaper to the width of the aquarium. Float the paper at one
end of tank, lifting by one edge and draw quickly over the length of the
water. Repeat once or twice with fresh paper.

Algae and Confervae. Should the plants become completely covered
with algse or "moss" try introducing a considerable number of small snails.
The large Japanese variety are not always suitable for this, as they are
unable to crawl on the smaller leaves. If this fails, remove and destroy
the plants, thoroughly disinfect the aquarium in every particular and
replant. Do not allow quite so much light in the future.

There is a very long, hard confervae about the thickness of horse-
hair which grows into matted masses. This is quite a pest when once
established, as it soon fills the aquarium and enmeshes young fish which
usually die before being rescued. The only way to get rid of this is to
take up all plants, go over each carefully and see that no single thread of
the confervse is left. If the smallest bit remains the growth will soon be
as bad as ever.

Fii.. 7. Prizewixnixg Scai.ei.kss Tklkscoi-k (jdi.ih ism
(Reduced onc-quartcrl

Tliis fish won the Diploma of Honor in 1907 as tlie l)cst fisli (any
class ) owned. Altliougii no special attention was paid to "l)roadtails" at
this time, there were quite a numher of them, tliis l)eing a good specimen.

Fjg. 8. Prizewinning Veiltail Moor (Reduced one-third)

This is considered to be one of the finest black goldfishes ever bred. The short,
deep body, the sail-like dorsal fin, the large, clear eyes, the broad flowing tails, the
velvety black color combined with good lines and style make this remarkable fish a
pattern which we might hope to equal but hardly to surpass.

Chapter Two

Goldfish Varieties

20

GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

THE GOLDFISH

There are two root-stocks from which the goldfishes of to-day have
originated. Both are members of the carp family. The European gold-
fish, Carassius carassius, has never been developed into any of the fancy
forms except by crossing with cultivated types of the Asiatic stock, Ca-
rassius anratus. The Orientals, principally those of Korea, China and
Japan must be given credit for first establishing, by selective breeding,
the goldfish as an ornamental pet as well as for the incredible lengths to
which they have gone in fixing fancy breeds. Of this more will be said
later.

Fig. 9. The Common Goldfish (Carassius anratus)

Although a common American goldfish has been described by at
least one writer, no such division properly exists. Those sometimes
found in American waters are invariably from escaped or liberated stock
from one of the two varieties mentioned, or from their hybrids.

The normal color of fishes of both root-stocks is of a silver-gray or
olivate hue, but with a strong natural tendency towards albinism, which
produces occasional specimens of a yellow or golden color. By selective
breeding the colors have become fairly well fixed, although in the scaled
varieties the color is still at first carp-like, turning to gold, white or black,
as a rule, in from three to eight months. Instances are quite common
where they live to an old age without ever turning, so strong is the ten-
dency among goldfish to revert to the ancestral stock.

TROPICAL AQUARIU]\[ FISHES 21

The common Goldfish being closely related to the original stock has
most of its characteristics. It is very hardy, can withstand extremes of
temperatures if brought about gradually, can remain out of water for
several hours when kept moist, is easily tamed and is a prolific breeder.
The body is rather long and flattened on the sides. The head is short,
wide, and without scales. Names of the different fins should here be
carefully noted, as they are frequently referred to in other parts of this
work. The Dorsal Fin (on back), the Caudal Fin (the tail) and the
Anal Fin (small fin nearest tail) are all single in the Common Goldfish.
The Pectoral Fins (nearest head) and Ventral Fins (nearer lower centre
of body) are paired.

Under pond culture they wdll, in several years, reach a length of 16
inches and live for eighteen years or more.

Colors in Goldfishes. In color the fish varies from a smoky drab
or olive to metallic red, yellow, white or partially black. Indeed a com-
bination of all these colors is not infrequent, once the first carp-color
is gone. The more prized colors in common goldfishes are deep red
(called "gold"), white (called "pearl") and a combination of the two.

The smoke-colored fishes are known as silverfishes, their color and
metallic lustre somewhat resembling tarnished silver. Breeders call them
"uncolored," because they have not yet turned to one of the more de-
sirable colors. Goldfishes of the metallic or "scaled" type are liable to
change color at any time, the least liable to turn being the white or pearl
fishes. After the first change from "silver," the rule is to progress to-
wards a lighter color. That is, from black to red or from red to white.
Exceptions are very rare. It will also be found that the lighter colors
are the more persistent in breeding, and as these are considered the least
desirable, it is well to avoid light-colored fishes when it comes time to
select breeding stock. Even when darker-colored breeders are used, the
fancier is frequently disappointed by having a large proportion of the
young develop light colors.

Black is a color which for some unknown reason is confined almost
exclusively to the telescope goldfish. In breeding telescopes it not infre-
quently happens that the abnormal eye development never takes place.
These fishes may develop any or all of the color peculiarities of their
parent-stock except that of being black. In the breeding of fancy gold-
fishes any freak combination of characteristics seems liable to occur, but
the writer has never seen a good black fish without telescope eyes,
although he is told by a reliable authority that there was one a number
of years ago.

We have referred to "scaled" goldfishes. There is another division
not known to the general public but which plays a highly important part

22 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

in the goldfish fancy. This is the "scaleless" variety. These fishes are
really not without scales, but the scales are of such transparent character
that they are scarcely observable to the eye. However, they usually show
with moderate distinctness in a clear photograph. Scaleless fishes do
not have the metallic sheen of the ordinary goldfish. The colors are more
refined and present a far greater range of variety. The most important
difiference is the presence of blue and lavender tints among scaleless
fishes. Among the scaled fishes these are not found. A further account
of these colors will be found in the description of the Calico Telescope
on page 31 and in the chapter on judging Goldfish Competitions, page 43.

Another important peculiarity of the scaleless type is that they never
go through the period of being silverfish, but at the age of about six weeks
commence to develop their permanent colors. Their first color is white,
sprinkled with small, black specks. A good idea of the final color may
be had in ten weeks, although as elsewhere remarked, the very finest of
the calico colors are not fully apparent under two or three years. Scale-
less fishes have a charm of refinement distinctly their own and make most
interesting inmates of the aquarium. So transparently scaled are some
specimens that at the breeding season it is often possible to tell females
by seeing the eggs through the translucent walls of the belly. The main
objection to the scaleless goldfish is that the ribs or rays of the fins are
rather weak. Soon after the fins have attained a high degree of develop-
ment the fish is no longer able to hold them in a position where they will
show to advantage. In the majority of instances the dorsal and caudal
fins (hereafter in this work popularly referred to as "tails") commence
to droop and sag in from two to three years, while the scaled fish often
maintains an admirable stiffness of fins for a long life. This we would
call ten years in a highly-bred fish. Questions are frequently asked
regarding the length of life of fancy goldfishes, but these are always
difficult to answer satisfactorily. A large proportion die under the age
of 6 weeks. Of the remainder there are quite a few which do not develop
rapidly, always remaining the "runts" of the batch. A few of these drop
off from time to time during the winter, but in the early spring months
they, and all other weak fishes, go rapidly, so that very few of the under-
sized fishes are left by the first of May. Those passing this period are
generally good until the next spring, when the death toll is rather heavy
again, but a fair number pass it successfully and they are likely to live
several years more to an age of from four to six years. Anywhere from
six to twelve years can be considered a long life for a fancy goldfish,
although well authenticated instances exceeding this are known.

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 23

Early Variations. In breeding single-tail fishes together in which
there is no known double-tail stock, one will sometimes find a fish with
the lower lobe of the tail double, making it a reasonable supposition that
this was the first "break"' in form away from the common stock. This
is called a "tripod tail." The next higher development is the "web-tail"
in which both tails are fully formed but joined at the top edge instead of
being completely divided. From these early "breaks" have been developed
the fully divided tails, double anal fins ct cetera.

By careful selective breeding, types have become fairly well fixed,
but the goldfish has a strong tendency to revert far back to ancestral
types, in form as well as color, often to the annoyance of the breeder.
One of the most interesting things about a spawning of goldfishes is the
tremendous variety in the young. In a lot of a thousand young scaleless
fishes there may not be two alike, and none may resemble either parent.
That this, however, is not always so is a self-evident fact, else selective
breeding would be without results.

The accomplishments of Oriental breeders seems only to be limited
by the scope of the imagination. Through the most patient efforts, not
only of a lifetime, but of several generations of a family, such changes
have been wrought in form and color that some of the breeds do not
seem to even distantly resemble the common goldfish. That this is so is
often evidenced by the fact that strangers to the fancy on first seeing a
collection of highly developed fishes zvant to knozv what they are. An
amusing incident illustrating this point occured in the preparation of the
present volume. The engraver who made the plate for the goldfish
design on the outside cover billed the publishers with "One Cut of But-
terfly" ! Those outside the fancy sometimes seriously refer to the fins of
fancy specimens as "wings." Among fanciers a high dorsal fin is often
referred to as the "sail."

When it is borne in mind what a considerable period of time must
have been necessary to bring about these strange breeds, it is not surpris-
ing that racial ideas and characteristics should, to a certain degree, be ex-
pressed in them. The Telescope Goldfish was originated in China and
undoubtedly bears a resemblance to Chinese art. It has a sort of beau-
tiful ugliness, a deliberate grotesqueness, intended first to shock and then
excite curiosity. The wonderful range of colors, too, suggests the art
of the Chinese — that race which continues to-day to lead the world in
the clever use of color. The Japanese Fringetail Goldfish is another
expression of national art. It is the \try embodiment of that aesthetic
elegance and grace so well understood by the Japanese people. America
has not been without its logical contribution. Here in this vast melting
pot it is our desire to bring forth combinations of the best from the old

24 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES Al^D

worlds, to which is added a touch of individuaHty of our own. Although
we have made several other combinations in crosses, the most important
is the beautiful Scaleless Fringetail. European aquarists have not as a
rule developed fancy goldfish breeding to the point it has been carried
in America. Their interests, particularly among the Germans, are cen-
tered in tropical fishes, in which specialty they easily lead the world.
In the Veiltail Telescope, the most important breed in this country,
American breeders have virtually created a new class, although none of
the separate points are of our own development. We have combined the
short body and long fins of the Japanese Fringetail with the Chinese
eyes, and colors. The broad, square tails seem to come from the Chinese
side, but so far as we know they did not especially breed for this point
nor for length in connection with it.

It is believed that the first cultivated goldfishes came from Korea,
that country from which even ancient China borrowed ideas, education
and arts, but so little is known of this that we have to take our facts as
we now find them. That there have been and are breeds of goldfishes
in both China and Japan which have never been sent out is well attested
by travelers to-day and by a book published in Paris in 1780, by de Sau-
vigny. This remarkably illustrated work shows many of the varieties in
color. The only known copy in the United States is in the Academy of
Natural Sciences, Philadelphia, where it will be shown those interested.
The easiest characteristic to fix in a breed is the lengthening of the
body and fins. This brings us to a description of the first of the fancy
goldfish varieties or breeds.

THE COMET GOLDFISH

The Comet has been referred to as the Japanese Comet because it
is probably a "sport" from Japanese stock. Japanese experts have as-
sured us the breed is not recognized in their country and certainly no
considerable numbers of them have ever been imported from there. The
first of the long single-tail breed appears to have been originated in the
ponds of the Fish Commission in Washington in the early eighties. Mr.
Hugo Mullertt either secured some of this stock or later originated a
strain of his own. At any rate, he was the first to place them on the
market in quantity. The Comet is long of body and fins, the tail in par-
ticular being very free-flowing. In movement this fish is the most grace-
ful of all the fancy goldfishes and it can swim with great rapidity when
necessary. This activity has made it easy for the fish to revert to its
ancestral tendency to leap out of the water. Aquaria containing Comets
should be covered by a screen, particularly in spring. The Comet makes
the most beautiful and generally satisfactory pond goldfish where a dec-

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

25

orative effect is desired. They are perfectly hardy over winter in a deep
pool or where they may burrow in leaves or soft mud. The type breeds
quite true to form and many thousands of them are raised annually for

Fig. 10. The Scaled Comet
the trade. A few years ago there was a wonderful strain of scaleless
comets of deep, oxblood red color. Unfortunately this was lost and
present-day breeders with scaleless stock that could be so crossed as to
produce scaleless comets find it more profitable to utilize their spare time
and energy in propagating other breeds.

Fig. 11. The Shubunkin

26 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

THE SHUBUNKIN

One of the more recent introductions is the Shubunkin. This is
simply a .transparently scaled, highly mottled, common goldfish. All
breeders of fancy stock occasionally get fish which are known as "sports''
v;hich have reverted back in form, but not in color to the original type.
The Japanese have now fixed them as a breed, and export a fair number
of them. They are of the most striking variation in color, and make a
hardy, attractive aquarium or pond fish. The colors most sought after
are blue backgrounds, sprinkled and mottled with dark red, brown, yellow
and black.

The Japanese stock has quite short fins, but those bred in America
are a little more developed in this respect, the illustration showing the
American style.

THE FANTAIL GOLDFISH

This is no doubt the early type of double-tailed goldfishes and is the
kind most frequently met with in pet shops. Enormous quantities of them
are annually raised in Japan, China, United States and Germany. Being
long of body, with fins not highly dev&loped they make good breeders and

Fig. 12. The Fantail

agile swimmers. This means that in the contest for life they are able in
most cases to hold their own with the hardy single-tailed variety. Since
the price for "fantails" is considerably in advance of that for "commons,"
it would seem a better commercial venture to invest a little more money
at the start for "fantail" breeding stock. However, none should go into
the raising of fish of any kind as a commercial enterprise without first
obtaining actual experience in a smaller way.

The anal fins, as well as the tails, should be double and clearly
divided.

TEOPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES

27

THE JAPANESE FRINGETAIL GOLDFISH

In point of pure elegance there is no breed of goldfish equal to the
Japanese Fringetail. Our illustration is taken from a sketch .of the fish,
made by its owner, I\Ir. Franklin Barrett. A few words regarding this.

Fig. 13. The Jap..\nese Fringetail (I'dltail or Broadtail style)

the best-known individual fish that has ever been owned in this country,
might be of interest. The Japanese Imperial Government sent a collection
of its best goldfishes to the World's Fair at Chicago in 1893. Only a few
of them survived the journey and still fewer lived through the Exposi-
tion. These had fallen into a diseased condition and were given to Mr.
William P. Seal. He cured them and later sold this one, now known
as "The World's Fair Fish," to Mr. Barrett, for a comparatively small
consideration. At that time the fish had not developed the wonderful
qualities which have made it famous. It was one of those cases where
"blood will tell."

28

GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AND

Regarding this fish as a type of perfection that could not be improved
upon, the Aquarium Society of Philadelphia had a drawing of it made
from Mr. Barrett's sketch and used as a society emblem. The society
later had the fish struck on its medal. It lived to an age of about fifteen
years, and was the father of many fine specimens.

The characteristic points of the Japanese Fringetail are brought out
in the illustration. The body is short, rounded and chunky, with short
head and flat eyes. The lower fins are long, pendant and delicately lace-
like, and are all paired. The dorsal fin is as high as the body is deep.
It should be carried erect, producing the efifect of a sail as the fish moves
majestically through the water. As in most other varieties, the deeper
colors, both in scaled and scaleless specimens, are the more highly prized.
Scaleless fringetails, an American production obtained by crossing Japa-
nese Fringetails with Chinese Scaleless Telescopes, are exceedingly re-
fined in appearance.

The illustration shows the tubercles on the gill plate and pectoral
fins, indicative of the male sex.

THE JAPANESE NYMPH GOLDFISH

The Nymph is virtually a single-tail Fringetail. The anal fin and
tail are single. The latter, instead of drooping, should be carried out

The Nymph

Straight, and well spread. This fish is usually a "sport" from fringetail
stock. Although seldom deliberately bred, fine specimens are very attrac-

TROPICAL AQUARIU]\[ FISHES

29

tive in an aquarium and arc often retained by fanciers. In their active
movements as well as in points of conformation they make a pleasing
contrast with the double-tailed varieties. One of the principal features
is the dorsal fin, which should be large and carried quite erect, as de-
scribed for the Fringetail. The body requirements are also the same.

CHINESE TELESCOPE GOLDFISHES

This most curious fish is either of Chinese or Korean origin, but was
undoubtedly brought to its highest stage of development in China. The
name correctly implies its chief peculiarity — projecting eyes. These make

Fig. 15. E.\rly Style Chinese Telescope

a very weird appearance, and almost without exception produce a shock-
ing impression on being seen for the first time. So perverted or educated
do our tastes later become that we find our admiration increasing in pro-
portion to the degree of malformation attained in the fish. Telescope eyes
vary in shape and in direction. The majority of them are spherical or
conical. Tubular eyes are rare and highly prized, but any form is con-
sidered good so long as they are large and stand out far from the head.
Most telescope eyes point in the same direction as normal eyes, but some
point forward. This is unusual. The Celestial Telescope has still more
peculiar eye formation. This is described under its own heading.

One point in common between all telescope goldfishes is that in the
early weeks of life the eyes appear entirely normal. Until they actually

30

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

start to "develop eyes" at anywhere from two months to even two years,
it is impossible to tell whether or not they will become telescopes. The
usual development period, however, is from three to five months. Should
they pass ten months without turning, they may be safely called Japanese
fringetails. Many such fishes that have come from telescope stock are
used to breed to telescopes to produce telescopic young. This is usually
successful in the first generation, but it has a tendency to spoil the breed
by gradually reducing the size of the eyes. Telescope fishes of the present
time are, for the most part, considerably inferior in point of eyes com-
pared with the stock of fifteen years ago, due mainly to breeding too ex-
clusively for short bodies and long fins. Type characteristics in any kind
of breeding can. like liberty, only be maintained at the price of eternal
vigilance.

^/-/^lliii|«,t>!--~

Fig. 16. Chinese Scaleless Telescope (Dorsal view)

THE CHINESE SCALELESS TELESCOPE GOLDFISH

As before stated, "scaleless" is somewhat of a misnomer, the fish
being transparently scaled, making the scales difficult to detect. We use
the word "scaleless" in its accepted popular sense.

TKOPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES 31

Fishes of this general division are divided into two color classes —
plain scaleless and calico. The plain scaleless is red, white or a combina-
tion of the two. Red in scaleless fishes is quite different from that in
scaled varieties, being more of an ox-blood color, producing a highly
refined appearance. In scaleless fishes the bodies do not have a metallic
lustre. The colors seem as though they had been laid on by the delicate
hand of a water-color artist. These fishes have white fins. During the
first few months the roots of the tails are usually dark, but this gradually
disappears.

The Calico Telescope is the consideration of first importance, not only
in this group, but among all fancy goldfishes in America. Its name is
suggestive of its coloring, but the colors are by no means in geometrical
arrangement, as they are in the fabric. Red, yellow, brown, gray, black,
blue and lavender are laid in fantastic blotches and spots over the body,
usually on a lighter background. Many small dots of black are sprinkled
over the body and fins. In extra fine specimens red dots will also appear
in the fins. The color chiefly sought is blue, and the more blue, the more
valued the fish. Probably every American breeder of scaleless telescopes
has an ambition to breed a solid blue fish with high-class body and fins.
A few solid blues have been produced, but the other required points were
woefully lacking. Calico Telescopes of the higher order seldom find their
w-ay into the pet shop, the price effectively keeping them out. This is
true of most of the finer fishes. Public taste in these matters is not suffi-
ciently educated to warrant dealers in taking the risk of carrying the more
highly developed, and therefore more delicate, specimens in stock. It
must be noted, however, that the past few years has witnessed a gratifying
development of general interest in the better aquaria and fancy fishes of
all kinds.

THE SCALELESS VEILTAIL TELESCOPE

While it is true that some of the early Chinese scaleless importations
had broad tails and medium length bodies, it is highly probable that none
of them equaled in short bodies and long fins the present American stand-
ard type. We crossed Japanese Fringetails wnth scaleless Chinese Tele-
scopes, thereby producing two new varieties which have become permanent
— Scaleless Japanese Fringetails and Scaleless Veiltail Telescopes. Both
have been bred for broad-tail qualities (veiltail), and may be considered
an American variation. The characteristic points of the .Scaleless Veil-
tail Telescopes are the same as those for the body and fin formation of the
Japanese Fringetail and the eyes and coloring of the Chinese Telescope.
The coloring almost always tried for is calico, but if a fish fails in this and

32

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AITD

Perfect Calico Veiltail Telescope

still retains the other characteristics of the breed, it is considered a good
fish. A perfect caHco veiltail telescope is the acme of perfection which
most American breeders have in mind as their highest goal.

THE CHINESE CELESTIAL TELESCOPE GOLDFISH

For a long time an erroneous belief existed that the peculiar eyes of
the celestial goldfish are produced by placing the young in jars which
were lighted only from a small slit in the top. Although this variety is
difficult to breed, it has been done several times in the United States. No
peculiar contrivances of any kind were used. At the usual period of
about ten weeks they developed ordinary telescope eyes in the regular way.
Later they gradually turned towards the top of the head as shown in
Figs. 18 and 39.

If any such peculiarity had been produced by mechanical means, it
would not be reproduced in the offspring. By some Orientals the Celes-
tial Goldfish is considered sacred on account of its constant heavenward
gaze, and is accorded a place in their temples.

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

9,9,

Fig. 18. The Chinkse Celestial

The Celestial Telescope is the most difficult of the imported gold-
fishes to rear or to keep alive in the aquarium.

THE JAPANESE BARNACLED GOLDFISH

Barnacled goldfishes are so rare that the majority of leading fan-
ciers have never seen them. They vi^ere first imported from Japan in
1897, soon disappearing from viev^'. Although no new stock is known to
have been imported, the peculiar characteristic has recently made its
appearance again. Whether these fishes are inheriting from the original
imported stock, of whether they represent an independent "break," such
as the Japanese breeders utilized in starting the breed, it is impossible even
to surmise. The scales are raised sharply in the center, presenting regular
lines of dots along the sides of the fish. These should not be confounded
with fishes suffering from dropsy. In the latter case the scales stand from
the body at the outer edge. Otherwise the fish has the characteristics of
the telescope fish.

34 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AND

THE CHINESE MOOR TELESCOPE GOLDFISH

The Moor is a most striking breed of the goldfish, its intense, velvety
black color forming a rich contrast for the more gaily colored specimens
in the aquarium. The intense blackness extends to every part of the fish
except the under side of the belly. This shades ofif to a blue-gray or a
slight golden tint. In the latter case the fish is likely to eventually turn

Young Chinese Moor (Vciltail)

gold. This is not certain, nor is the blue-gray a guarantee against turn-
ing, although it is less likely to do so. Breeders have not found that the
greatest percentage of blacks is produced by using two blacks, but by
crossing a deep red scaled fish with a black. A good Moor with the body
and fin development of the Fringetail, is a very choice fish, and is always
in demand. The accompanying illustration, made from a very fine year-
ling fish, does not give a full idea of the intense black color of the original.
Some of this had to be sacrificed in order that the drawing might show all
details of the fish. Our photographic illustration of a veiltail Moor, on
page 18, will give a better idea of the color.

THE JAPANESE LION-HEADED GOLDFISH

In point of grotesqueness and the amazing accomplishments of
breeding fancy goldfish, probably nothing surpasses the so-called Lion-

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

head. It is often remarked that the name is not particularly appropriate,
but seems to have become established. "Buffalo-head" would be a much
more descriptive and appropriate name. There are three strong char-
acteristics to this fish. The first is a thick growth over the gill plates and
head somewhat resembling a large raspberry. The second is the entire
absence of dorsal fin, and the third is the extremely thick, short body.
The growth on the head seldom commences before the age of six months

Fig. 20. The Lionhead, or Buffalohead

and sometimes never appears. It is well developed in two years and
increases in size as long as the fish lives. After the head growth has
become quite thick it is advisable to keep the fish in running or other well
oxygenated water. The mechanical difficulty of breathing is considerable
and unless there is plenty of oxygen the fish is liable to suddenly expire
when in apparently good condition. The tails and anals should be double,
but defects in these points are not considered serious if head and body are
good. The colors are the usual pearl and red of the common goldfish. A
few transparently scaled specimens have been produced by crossing with
transparently scaled fish of other breeds. One or two Lionheads in a
mixed aquarium add considerably to the variety. It was believed by some
that the absence of dorsal fin was the result of its being extracted by
Japanese breeders while the fish was young. This has been proven a gross
error for the same reasons stated in paragraph on Celestial Telescopes.

36

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

THE ORANDA

In the opinion of the writer an Oranda was originally a Lionhead
with a dorsal fin — in other words, a Lionhead which did not come true

Fig. 21. The Oranda

to form. However, it is recognized as a variety and is accorded a place
in goldfish shows. The fins and body are usually longer than in the
Lionhead.

THE CHINESE TUMBLER GOLDFISH

Among other breeds of Chinese goldfish never popularly known in
America is the Tumbler. The peculiarity of this fish is that of somer-
sault gyrations comparable to those of tumbler pigeons, caused by the
spine curving backwards. A fish performing in this manner is occasion-
ally seen in a hatching of any short-bodied stock, and is usually killed
to relieve it of the misery of existence. We cannot imagine that a breed
of this sort would ever become popular in this country, for it would be
too suggestive of troubles we already have in fishes caused by internal
derangements, chiefly of the swimming bladder.

In addition to the few specimens seen in this country, a similar fish
is described by de Sauvigny.

TEOPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES

37

THE CHINESE EGGFISH

A few of these fishes were imported some years ago, but have never
become generally known. So far as America is concerned the breed is
temporarily lost. This fish, as its name correctly implies, has a rounded

Fig. 22. The Chinese Eggfish

white body resembling an egg. The absence of dorsal and anal fins
enhances this efifect very much. The tails are bifurcated and decidedly
drooping. This fish would form an almost dazzling contrast with a Veil-
tail Moor Telescope. The breed is recognized in Europe.

CHINESE LETTERED GOLDFISHES

It has been claimed that in some instances the Orientals have suc-
ceeded in breeding fishes marked with Chinese letter characters on the
sides. In strongly mottled stock such a design might accidentally appear,
but from our knowledge of goldfish breeding traits we do not believe any
definite color pattern could be deliberately produced. It is much more
probable that the fishes have been cleverly stained by the use of oxalate
of iron or dilute hydrochloric acid.

38 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AND

THE METEOR, OR TAILLESS GOLDFISH

In breeding for long-tailed fishes a strange perversion sometimes
occurs in the form of a tailless fish, the other fins being well developed.
The anal is single. Some of these have recently been bred together, and

Fig. 23. The AIeteor

by a few generations of selective breeding the type has become quite
well fixed. At first regarded as a mere freak, the Meteor has been
accorded a place in a number of competitive exhibitions. A specimen
such as illustrated can swim better than would be imagined, and makes
quite a streaming effect passing through the water.

Chapter Three

Judging Goldfish
Competitions

40 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

JUDGING GOLDFISH COMPETITIONS

Among aquarium socieites there is a certain demand for competitive
exhibitions of goldfish varieties. The difficulties of making satisfactory
awards are considerable, due in part to varying ideas as to what consti-
tutes standards of perfection. To reduce this difficulty to a minimum the
Aquarium Society of Philadelphia instituted a series of conferences of
leading fanciers in order to establish a satisfactory and uniform scale of
standards. The diagrams shown herewith represent a composite of the
best ideas obtainable. The majority of leading societies have adopted
them as a whole.

The "point system" of judging, as it is called, is too slow and labor-
ious for use on an entire large exhibition. The two or three best fish,
selected on general appearances should be set aside from the others and
judged independently by three judges, on points. The totals are then
averaged and awards made.

In those classes requiring double anal fins the fish is penalized three
points for having only one.

In the fringetail classes the tails must be fully divided to receive con-
sideration.

The longtail or fringetail group is divided into two classes, the
veiltail and the ribbontail. These are sometimes called "broad-tail" and
"swallow-tail" or "cut-out-tail." In the veiltail the centre of each tail is
indented or forked less than one-third of its total length. The swallow-
tail is cut in to one-third or more. The diagram on page 43 will plainly
show this.

The making of these classes has caused some confusion. The author
believes that fishes of these two types and those on the difficult dividing
line should all take their chances together. The division was undoubtedly
made as an expediency in order to make more awards and thereby please
as many people as possible. So far as can be determined, no such divi-
sions of fin shape have ever been recognized in China or Japan, and the
same was true here until the period of 1910-12, when it became a con-
spicuous fact that nearly all winners of competitions were of the broad-
tail type. Those not possessing stock of this style became dissatisfied,
and in order to appease them, a class of the old-style fish was definitely
established. While the veiltail is the more difficult to handle and to
breed, it is accepted as the standard to be striven for. The word "veil-
tail" is adapted from the German Schleierschwanz, and is more truly

-^2:.=

Fig. 25. Medal of The Aquarium Society of Philadelphia
(Exact size J

The first medal offered by an American Aquarium Society. It is awarded
annually for the best fish owned and the best fish bred by a member; also for dis-
tinguished achievement or services in the advancement of aquarium .study.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

43

descriptive than "fringetail," a word more apt to describe the split and
ragged ends of the fins of a fish out of condition.

In competitions goldfish are divided into the scaled and "scaleless"
classes, the latter being transparently scaled. The scaled fishes are colored
gold (metallic red) silver (metallic drab or smoke) pearl (metallic white)
and moors (blacks). The first should be of a deep shade of red. The
second is a transitory color and varies but little. As a color value it ranks
low. The pearl is a grade higher, but light colors in general are not
favored. Moors should be a deep, purple-black, free from the appearance
of a white scum. These blacks are never completely black under the
belly. It is at this point that they usually begin to turn red, which is
liable to happen to a moor at any age.

"Scaleless" fishes are divided into red, white, mottled and calico.
The preferred shade of red is of the deep, oxblood color. White ranks
lowest. Mottled is a combination of red and white, while the highest
prized is the calico, a combination of all the colors in finely divided spots.
In this class the all-important color is blue or lavender, the deeper the
better, and also the more the better. The ideal calico has a body back-
ground of blue, red and white, over which is a sprinkling of fine black
dots. The black dots and some red ones are also freely distributed over
all the fins, which are otherwise white in these and all "scaleless" fishes.
The highest development of this color seldom occurs under the age of
from two to three years.

In the opinion of the writer, societies should avoid too frequent
competitive exhibitions. They promote discord and tend to develop pro-
fessionalism. Those truly interested in the development of the fancy
will be willing to bring out their fish without thought of reward other
than giving pleasure to their friends and the public.

OFFICIAL CHARTS

Showing Ideal Figures of the Principal Goldfish Varieties,
Together with Valuation Points

Copyris;hted by Franklin Barrett

Fig. 26. Swallowtail Comet

Fig. 27. Veiltail Comet

44

GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

Fig. 32. Swallowtail Jap. Fringetail

Fig. 33. Dorsal View, Swallowtail
Jap. Fringetail

TROPICAL AQUAKirM FISHE8

45

STYLE. S

Fig. 36. Swallowtail Telescope

C0LO« 18
EYCS 18
STYLE 5

Fig. 37. \'eiltail Telescope

tY£f 32

Fig. 3S. Oranpa

Fig. 39. Celestial

46

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AISTD

Fig. 40. Dorsal View, Celestial

Fig. 41. Lionhead

TABLE OF POINTS FOR ALL CLASSES

Double
Body Tail Dorsal Fins Color Anals Style Eyes

Telescopes 18 18 14

Japs 24 26 18

Nymphs 25 27 20

Comets 20 32 20

Telescope Nymphs ... 19 19 16

Celestials 18 18

Shubunkins 10 10 10

Lion Heads 18 18

Orandas 18 18 14

4

18

5

5

18

100

4

18

5

5

100

5

18

5

100

5

18

5

100

5

18

5

18

100

4

18

5

5

32

100

5

60

5

Head

100

4

18

5

5

32

100

4

18

5

5

18

100

Chapter Four

Propagation of the Goldfish

48 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A^B

SEX IN GOLDFISHES

The chief indications of a male fish ("buck") in the breeding sea-
son— about January till August — are the small tubercles appearing on
the gill plates. These are a little smaller than pin-heads and the fish
must be viewed at a certain angle in order to see them. (See illustration
on page 27 and lower photograph on page 56.)

The female fish ("roe") is usually shorter and fuller of body, par-
ticularly when carrying spawn. The spawn as a rule is more on one
side of the fish than the other, so that in looking directly down on the
fishes' back it may be found to be curved to one side. After spawning
is over this deformity often remains. In a female which has spawned
the vent is always a little protuberant. The eggs can often be seen
through the translucent skin of females of the scaleless type.

Early in the year the young males will begin swimming after the
females, following close to the vent. Without observing any of the fore-
going rules the sex may often be told in this way.

BREEDING

The breeding of fancy goldfishes is one of the most fascinating of
diversions. There are many difficulties to be encountered and even the
oldest fanciers sometimes have new troubles to face. Goldfish, possibly
more than any other creatures, draw their characteristics from far-
removed ancestors. Or again they may become a counterpart of either
parent. This makes a considerable element of uncertainty, since the
characteristics of their preceding stock has for the most part contained a
great deal of variety, due, no doubt, to experimental crosses. This
produces a most interesting and sometimes annoying variation in a lot
of young goldfish. As the fish gets beyond the small fry stage the breeder
becomes intensely absorbed in daily observation of points of form, color
and size as they appear.

The percentage of fancy fish coming true to type is usually small.
Ten per cent, of fish to pass the critical inspection of the fanciers' eye
is not considered bad. Besides these about fifty per cent, of the batch
will come true, but will be qualified by slight defects. The balance may
be anything at all, single-tail fish from double-tail parents being the
principal disappointment. These percentages are averaged from general
breeding, but are liable to wide variation. Sometimes there is no fish in
a hatching to approach the quality of either parent; sometimes a large
percentage is better than both parents. If a strain is carefully watched

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 49

for several generations and no fish varying from the desired type is
allowed to breed, the percentage of young coming true can be kept
very high.

The begiimer should get his first experience in breeding the more
hardy varieties — the comet, for instance — ^but this stage passed he should
select none but the best breeding fish out of known good stock. The
best time to purchase new stock is in September and October, preference
being given to the larger fish about seven months old. At this period
the dealer-fancier is usually willing to sell off some of his larger old
fish. These are more showy than the young, but should not be selected
as breeders. In fact, none but the expert fancier who knows well what
he is about should purchase any fish over one year old.

The fish often show signs of breeding early in the year. As pre-
viously stated the young males will start "driving" the females. If this
is observed before March, the sexes should be separated, as early spawns
are not to be desired, unless one has very special facilities. If the spawn-
ing can be delayed until May, results will be more satisfactory. The
reasons for this are that the harmful long cold spells are less likely to
occur and that living food can be obtained with more certainty. Spawn-
ing may be delayed by separating the sexes and by keeping the fish in
cool water.

As spawning time approaches the fish should be well fed on nourish-
ing food. Finely chopped earthworms, carefully rinsed, are excellent.
Live daphnia are even better. When the breeders have been selected
they should be placed togther by themselves. If possible there should
be three males to one female. This insures a higher percentage of
fertilized eggs than if only one male is used. If the definite results of a
certain cross are wanted then use only one male. A second female
not spawning should never be present, as she will devour the spawn.

Papier mache tubs are very nice for spawning in, but seasoned wood
tubs or tanks will do. The aquarium may be used, or the spawning net
shown on page 231.

Should there be no spawn after the fish have been together several
days, remove about a quarter of the water daily and replace by fresh.
This is very stimwlating. Some intimation of an approaching spawning
may be had by the fact that the males occasionally "drive" the ripe
female for several days before the spawning takes place. This usually
increases in intensity the evening before, and when spawning is in full
swing it develops into a wild chase punctuated by short periods of rest.
So vigorous is the swimming at this time that fishes with large fin
development generally have their fins torn and frayed. Males with
shorter caudal fins (tails) are the more rapid, swimmers and their fins

50 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

become less torn. As these are usually also the young, vigorous males
they are to be preferred for breeding purposes. Spawning usually
starts at daybreak and lasts till middle afternoon. It may be repeated
every few weeks until the first of August, but the first spawn of the
season is the largest.

Goldfish deposit their eggs preferably on floating aquatic plants, and
these should be freely provided (first making sure they contain no snails
or other enemies to fish eggs). The best are water hyacinths (with as
large roots as possible) and bunches of myriophyllum. The female will
swim over the plants and drop the eggs. As they fall the male passes
over and fertilizes them by an ejection of spermatic fluid. They are of a
mucilaginous character and adhere to the plants. The eggs are about
one-sixteenth of an inch in diameter and are of a pale, amber hue. The
fish drops from ten to twenty eggs at a time, and after short intermis-
sions repeats the operation. A complete spawning of a medium sized
female runs from five hundred to one thousand eggs. Large fish not
infrequently spawn over three thousand. This refers to the first breed-
ing of the season. As previously remarked, subsequent spawnings are
considerably smaller. As the plants become covered with eggs they
should be removed from time to time, allowing a few minutes for the last
deposit to become fertilized. These plants should be removed to enamel
trays about 4 inches deep and 12 to 20 inches in diameter, containing
clean water of the same temperature as breeding tank. If more con-
venient the fish may be removed after spawning and allow the eggs to
hatch where they have fallen. One of our leading breeders makes an egg-
trap composed of a number of bunches of myriophyllum, secured together
in a radiating circle, like the spokes of a wheel. About 10 bunches are
used. The tinfoil is removed from each and tied again with thread. The
same thread is carried half an inch to the next bunch and so on until they
are all arranged on a string, which is then knotted together in the form of
a circle. The fishes spawn in this with their heads to the centre, and as
the eggs are discharged in the direction of the rays of plants, the chances
of the eggs finding a lodging place in them are very good. Such a circle
need not be removed until well filled with eggs. Some females eat their
own spawn, so removal of eggs is safer if hyacinths or small bunches of
myriophyllum are used. No snails should be present, as they eat the
eggs. However, after the eggs have hatched the snails should be used to
eat the infertile ones. These appear on the second day to be milky white
and later become covered with large balls of fungus. The fertile eggs are
of a pale amber color and are not easily seen. This fact together with the
marked prominence of the infertile eggs often gives the beginner the idea
that the eggs are all bad. He is generally surprised, therefore, to see what
a large number hatch.

Fk;. 42. Telescope (Solufishes Si'awmnc

This unusual photograph shows two females spawning on a ring of Myrio-
phyllnm. The smaller fishes are the males, in vigorous pursuit. Males do 11(4
average of smaller size than the females, hut tlie xdunger ones are the more active
and fertilize a higher i)ercentage of eggs than (\t> their elder hretliren.

Fig. 43. Golu

II I-

( Slightly mayii ificd )

Being of a pale amber color, goldfish eggs are very difficult to photograph as
they actually appear. The one beneath the arrow gives a more correct idea than
any of the others, but the general distribution of eggs on Hyacinth roots is shown
in a characteristic manner.

>:

X

\ -

^

Fir.. 44. < lOLUKisn at Two W kkks

The abdominal yolk-sacks iiave been absorbed but the stomachs ])r<)trui
waj- to show that plenty of small living food has been provided.

Fig. 45. Goldfish at Six Weeks

At this period they have come to look like fishes. From this point until late
Fall they eat at least their own bulk daily, and the Iiodies in fancy stock will con-
tinue to deepen.

Fi(.. 40. Telescope Goldfish at Twelve Weeks

They have now attained their body form and started to develop telescope eyes.
In the scaleless varieties the colors have largely appeared, but among scaled stock
tlie yoimg at this period remain "uncolored." By this time the breeder has usually
selected the best specimens to hold for the following year. These should be placed
by themselves in ample n:)um. When the supply of live food is limited, they are
the ones which are favored.

Fk;. 47. Prizewixmnc; Telescof

Fig. 48. Prizewinning Scaleless Telesc

Goldfish Over One Year Olu, Fully Developed

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 57

The development of the embryo under the microscope is plainly
observable and is extremely interesting. The hatching time is from
three to fourteen days, according to temperature. At a temperature
ranging from 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit they should take from four to
five days. This is considered to produce stronger fish than a slow hatch-
ing. The hatching trays and young fish should be kept in a light place
and, if possible, where they may be protected from a temperature below
60 degrees. Goldfish at any age should be partially protected from the
direct glare of the sun, so that they may at will go into the sun or shade.
A few sticks to form a rough lattice over the tray or tub will do very
well. In case of rain the sticks, unless already weatherbeaten, should be
removed, as water from new wood is injurious. If the fish are in a
position where they get only about two hours of morning sun, no pro-
tection from light need be considered. Goldfish do not prosper in too
much heat, and temperatures above 85 degrees, even temporarily, are to
be avoided if possible. Fish under eight weeks old can stand more heat
than can older fish.

When the alevin or newly hatched embryo bursts from the egg it is
a very weak creature. It appears a mere thread with a pair of eyes at
one end and small lump in the centre. This is the umbilical sack and
serves as subsistence for the first few days. At first the alevin can only
swim by a few jerky motions, and has the power of sticking wherever it
touches. At the age of one day they are to be found hanging on the
plants and the sides of whatever receptacle they are in. In from two to
three days they are swimming freely. When the umbilical sac has been
absorbed, which is in about three days, the babies will need some food
which has been previously prepared. The first natural food is a large
variety of microscopic animals known under the general heading of
infusoria. These are present in all exposed water which has stood a few
days, but in order to have sufficient for fishfood it is necessary to have
conditions favorable to their culture. This consists mainly of vegetable
decay. Dried and powdered lettuce leaves or duckweed, sprinkled
thickly on the water produce good results in a few days, kept in a warm
place and a subdued light. Also a quantity of hay over which boiling
water is poured wall soon produce the creatures. A low-power micros-
cope or cheap magnifying glass should be employed in this work. (See
page 140), After the culture is apparent and the fish are swimming
freely, occasional dips of culture water should be put in with the young
fry. Sometimes the infusorians can be found freely in standing pools,
particularly where the water is not very clean, and where there are no
daphnia or other crustaceans. One species, Brachiomcs ruhens, some-
times occurs so thickly that the surface of the water appears to be covered

58 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AND

by a thin, rusty scum. Small pools about a cattle yard are particularly
favorable, but, of course, if the water is very dark it should be used
sparingly. This sort of food should be used for about ten days to two
v.-eeks. Illustrations Nos. 93 to 96 show types of this living food, but
one does not need to be very particular as to the exact form. In general
anything alive that is too small to be well seen by the naked eye, but
which is visible under a magnifying glass, will answer the purpose. Col-
lection can be made with nets of fine bolting cloth. If green water can be
had, some of it should be put in with the young fish. It contains vege-
table matter of value to very small fry. After the fry have noticeably
mcreased in size they should be fed young daphnia which have been
screened through a fine wire tea strainer. As size increases, feed full
size daphnia. (See page 130.)

While the fry are being fed on infusoria, however, no daphnia should
be introduced. The daphnia, as well as the small fish feed on infusoria
and are more skilled than goldfish in catching them. Where daphnia
have been for a few hours, no infusoria can be found, so thoroughly do
they clear the water of them. In other words daphnia and goldfish up to
the age of about ten days for the fish are competitors for the same
living food.

Contrary to previous theories numbers of our leading breeders now
use a drip of water in the tanks with young fish over one month old.
In many cases this plan seems to produce remarkable growth. The use
of an ordinary drain in this connection is inadvisable, particularly if
outdoors, as a heavy downpour of rain is liable to carry off the small
fish. If the tank used has a drain pipe a large wire guard covered with
cheesecloth will answer the purpose, but the cloth should be renewed
occasionally, as the water rots the fabric. If fish are in a tub a good
drain can be made by placing a 2-inch strip of stifif felt around the out-
side edge. Secure the felt in position by securely wrapping a cord around
it as close to top of tub as possible, allowing the felt to stand about one
inch above sides of tub. This will not only secure the young fish, but will
prevent the loss of any daphnia by overflow.

Best results are had in raising fish out doors, but one invites catas-
trophe by placing them out in the first warm spell of Spring unless it is
possible to again bring them indoors promptly on the arrival of the cold
spells sure to occur in the Spring of our Eastern climate.

In instances where it is not possible to secure living food for raising
young fish they may be started on rice flour, yellow of egg forced through
bolting cloth or fishfood reduced to a powder and sifted through cheese-
cloth. As they increase in size an excellent diet is the paste from boiled
oatmeal after straining through muslin or cheesecloth. Powdered shrimp

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 59

or codfish as described on page 129 can be added to the oatmeal to
advantage.

Whether fed on living or prepared food, young goldfish should be
fed very liberally. This is essential to securing large strong fish of good
constitution. They eat almost constantly. It is better to feed several
times daily than to put in a whole day's supply at one time. With pre-
pared food it is liable to foul the water with long standing and too many
daphnia introduced at one time exhaust the oxygen in the water. This
lack of oxygen retards growth and may produce suffocation.

As the fry develop in size the more nearly perfect specimens should
be selected from the others, given more room and the best of the food.
It is much better to concentrate on raising a few fine specimens, and to
succeed in this requires plenty of room for each fish. This point cannot
be dwelled upon too strongly. Even many expert fanciers fail to get
the best results on account of trying to raise too many young in a given
space. At the age of six weeks they should have at least one gallon per
fish, three gallons at nine weeks and six gallons at twelve weeks and
over. This rule is for fishes which are growing. Small fry should be
dipped out with a spoon and never poured. Rough handling kills them
almost instantly.

For some unknown reason certain individual fishes grow very much
more rapidly than others. These larger ones monopolize the food and
sometimes eat the smaller. They should therefore be sorted according
to size several times in a season.

WINTERING GOLDFISHES

In outdoor ponds where there are plenty of dead leaves and soft
dirt, the hardier varieties of goldfish will survive the winter. The ice
should be broken to admit air. This air space also tends to prevent
deeper freezing. If a few warm spells occur it will do no harm to feed
the fishes very lightly when the ice entirely melts. This should not be
done oftener than once a week.

If one has insufficient aquarium or indoor pool space to keep the
stock of fine fishes over winter, tubs will be found good, especially those
of papier mache. Occasional partial changes of water will prove bene-
ficial, particularly in concrete tanks.

Winter is the natural resting period of goldfishes and at this time
they do not require much warmth nor food. Their food at this time,
however, should receive careful attention. They need a certain amount of
fresh animal food, and as the usual form (Daphnia) cannot generally be

60 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A^D

had in winter, substitutes are of value. This is taken up in chapter on
Fishfoods, page 130.

Transparently-scaled white or nearly white fishes need more warmth
than the others, as cold causes them swimming bladder trouble.

Chapter Five

Wholesale Breeding

62 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES Al^B

WHOLESALE BREEDING

With the rapidly growing demand for aquarium fishes there is no
reason why, with the proper faciHties, one should not make a comfortable
living from the breeding of goldfishes and other fancy kinds. Good
water, plenty of room, moderate taxes, ample shipping facilities and
thorough experience in fish culture are all prime requisites. Climatic con-
ditions must be carefully considered. The weather should be settled by
May 15 and continue moderately warm until early October. Localities
where the nights are cold or the days excessively hot are not suitable.
States in the same temperature belt as Maryland and Virginia are particu-
larly advantageous, although it is by no means to be said that success can-
not be had elsewhere. Farmers in many localities are turning otherwise
unprofitable land both into goldfish and foodfish ponds. In the latter
branch several of the State Fish Hatcheries are giving encouragement and
practical help.

It is not necessary to have an expensive establishment in order to
succeed, but certain natural advantages, besides those already mentioned,
are of importance. If one has a good spring, clay-bottom soil and ground
that lends itself readily to a series of pools that will drain from one to
another, a start can be made with reasonable chances of success. Our
figure number 49 will give a good general idea of an inexpensive
layout. The water runs from springhouse to a tempering pond, where the
water becomes more heated by the air and sun. It also absorbs oxygen,
for in this element spring water is apt to be lacking. Where no tempering
pool is used it is advisable to arrange small waterfalls if there is sufficient
drop. Even 2 or 3 inches is better than none. From the tempering pond
the water is run through a series of sluices into the rearing ponds. As the
fishes develop, some will grow much more rapidly than others. In order
to prevent them from devouring their smaller fellows, they must con-
stantly be sorted out, particularly in the first several weeks. These larger
ones can be placed to advantage in the two long pools shown in illustra-
tion, using one side for choice grades with good fin development, color,
etc., and the other for single-tails or fish with blemishes.

As a final use for the water it can be placed to advantage as shown in
a large pond for the propagation of daphnia or other live food. The fish
pools should be drained in the winter in order to expose the bottoms to
the action of frost, thereby killing lurking insect enemies. We have shown
an outlet on the daphnia pond, but ordinarily this is not to be emptied.
By draining it the stock of live food would not be entirely lost, but many

TROPICAL AQUARIUxM FISHES

63

daphnia eggs would be carried away and consequently it would take longer
in the spring to develop a stock large enough for practical use. If possi-
ble it is a good plan to have two or more daphnia ponds, so that one may be

m

SI

r~'

'l\i)lhiZ\^

'■'\'lm^^^

^ ^^^mmkii

W^^r^

Mts\

\.

^

_2?

Fig. 49. Farm Breeding Ponds, Showing Detail of Sluice and Guard

replenished while the other is being drawn from. The bottom of daphnia
pools should be prepared with a substantial layer of dead leaves and
manure of any kind. Later in the season when this has all disintegrated,
a new supply should be occasionally added. Any decomposing vegetal
or animal substances will do. If a prowling cat has met accidental death
by shooting, its carcass placed in the daphnia pond will give quite an im-

64 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

petus to the production of live fish food. For aesthetic reasons it would
be well to weight the carcass down with stones.

The plan of this system of pools does not call for running water, but
only to admit it as needed. It will be seen that an overflow is provided
to carry off the surplus from the tempering pond, this finally discharging
into the natural brook from the spring, or into any other place capable of
carrying it off.

By this plan of having one pool drain into another, instead of dis-
charging into a general overflow, we have an added chance of saving
fishes in case of an overflow or accident to the sluices.

Unless a spring is known to be thoroughly dependable at all times,
the possibility of securing water from other sources should be considered
in the beginning, particularly as most establishments of the kind now
being described are constructed only on clay bottoms, where a certain
amount of water is sure to be lost through seepage.

If the soil has no natural clay bottom, the hole should be dug 6 inches
lower than the intended depth of pool, say 20 inches in all. Now mix pure
clay with water in a mixing box and spread on bottom and sides to a
depth of 6 inches. To secure the sides in this manner they will have to
slope gradually. It is better to make the sides of cypress boards and
puddle the clay in back of them. These had best be sloped at a slight
angle, about 2 inches to a 14-inch board. Even when soil is mostly of
clay, there is often serious loss of water near the top on account of the
more porous earth.

One very important consideration in all outdoor ponds or pools is
the possibility of serious loss through freshets. Not only does the pool
itself have a tendency to overflow in a protracted downpour, but drainage
from higher portions of ground is liable to sweep over low ponds. The
latter danger can be overcome by having ample trenches dug on the sides
exposed to such risk, and seeing that they in turn drain ofif where the
water will do no harm. In regard to direct overflow it is a good plan to
have extra screened outlets in each pool at a point a little higher than the
regular outlet, which is of course also screened according to the sizes of
fishes contained. Another point is to have a safety factor by not filling to
within 3 inches of the top. That is to say the regular drain should be
placed at that level. The importance of the danger of flood in a system of
this kind cannot be emphasized too strongly, and unless the point is care-
fully provided for in the beginning, trouble is bound to ensue, and serious
trouble.

An advantage of the tempering pool is that fishes can be kept in it
over Winter. Fishes bring better prices in the latter part of the Winter,
and one of the serious problems of the wholesaler is how he shall carry a

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 65

large stock where it will be kept in good condition and will be available.
If the spring has a good flow, the tempering pool can be kept comparatively
free of ice and iish can be caught as wanted all Winter.

With the use of ground-level ponds the snake, frog and rat have
good chances of enjoying the luxury of feeding upon goldfishes, unless the
vigilant breeder adopts effective means of keeping these pests under
control.

As stated in the former chapter, it is advisable to provide shade for
the fishes. Trees at the right places would be beneficial but this cannot
often be arranged. Aquatic plants, particularly w-ater-lilies, are to be
recommended. Plant life in a clay-bottom pool should be strictly limited
to a few species, as some plants once obtaining a foothold can only be
eradicated with the greatest difficulty. The plants to be used are Giant
Anacharis, Myriophyllum, Cabomba, Ludwigia and Water Cress. All of
these are desirable and furthermore find ready sale. Cyperus such as
shown in illustration may be kept in pots.

Specially Equipped Breeding Establishment. A more elaborate
and considerably more expensive establishment is shown in our figure 50,
consisting of greenhouse, indoor and outdoor concrete pools and all acces-
sories going to make up a modern commercial fish-breeding plant. The
tanks are 26 inches deep on the outside surface and are not sunk into the
ground. This avoids the expense of so much excavating and makes a
height which ordinarily cannot be scaled by rats, snakes or frogs. Tanks
had best be covered by frames of screening, but these will sometimes be
warped or placed on carelessly, thereby giving these particular enemies an
opportunity. Let us repeat that galvanized screening should be scrubbed
with a stiff brush and water before placing over any kind of fish con-
tainer. The acid-flux used in making galvanized wire is extremely fatal
to fishes, and unless precaution is taken, the first rain on new screening
will wash the free acid among the fishes and cause wholesale deaths.
Uniform size of compartments has several advantages, among which is
interchangeability of screens or covers. Allowing 6 inches for the thick-
ness of bottom will leave an inside depth of 20 inches, but under ordinary
circumstances they should not be filled beyond 14 to 15 inches. With the
outside tanks this gives a safety margin of several inches before a heavy
downpour of rain causes the level to rise to the screened safety overflows
one inch from the top. It also catches practically all of the rainwater of
the season, w^hich is excellent for the fishes. If the water becomes high it
can be siphoned off from the bottom until original level is reached. The
advantage of being able to fill up, if necessary, to 19 or 20 inches in an
inside tank is that at certain seasons the greenhouse capacity for fishes is

66

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

taxed to the fullest. At such times the extra volume of water for the
storage of fish stock will be keenly appreciated. An economy of space can
be effected by building wooden tanks to stand over the section marked
"Breeding Ponds" in figure 50, thus making two rows here instead of
one. The wooden tanks should be somewhat narrower than the lower
concrete pools.

^^m\ JMiK\\inn;ii\iii\iifn,wu)n\/fMi)Miuim

Fig. 50. Wholesale Breeding Establishment, Showing Greenhouse and
Outdoor Concrete Tanks

Goldfishes are hatched in the greenhouse from February until April.
The young, as stated in the previous chapter, should not be placed out
until the weather is settled, but there is a magic about outdoors which puts
growth and vitality into the fish which the cunningest devices of temper-
ature, plants, food, aeration, etc., cannot successfully imitate in the green-
house. There has been much speculation as to why fishes do not do as
well as might be expected in greenhouses. The author suggests that the
water is too dead, owing to lack of evaporation, the atmosphere being
already charged with dampness. Evaporation produces cold. The cold,
oxygenated water drops to the bottom, thereby setting up a beneficial cir-

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 67

dilation of re-vitalized water. Also there is more microscopic life falls on
the water outside than indoors. A partial renewal of water in indoor
tanks is undoubtedly beneficial and is one means of at least partially secur-
ing that freshness of water which we have outdoors. Those handling
fishes in w^holesale quantities in greenhouse or other large indoor pools
usually maintain a small spray of running water. This should in no sense
be of sufficient quantity to be regarded as running water, but merely
enough to add a trifle of freshness and oxygen. Stock accustomed to
actual running water is liable to suffocate when placed in an ordinary
aquarium. Retail dealers are not always conscientious in this matter.
In order to carry a large stock in a small space they have to resort to a
liberal use of running water. They dip fishes directly out of such tanks
to sell for use in household aquaria, knowing full well that the chances of
survival are poor. It is by no means impossible, or even difficult, to
accustom such stock to still water, but the change should be brought about
slowly. Frequent partial changes of water at first, gradually increasing
the length of time between them, wnll accomplish the result.

Some years ago IMr. \Vm. P. Seal devised a fish-breeding house of a
somewhat different character from the ordinary greenhouse, and the idea
has been generally accepted as correct in principle. The structure is long
and narrow, with solid roof. The lighting is from window sashes in the
sides, these being swung or pivoted so as to admit the air in summer.
The objections to the ordinary type of greenhouse are, first, too much light
for fishes and plants, producing an excessive grow^th of algse (including
green water) ; second, high cost of heating in cold weather and too much
heat in the warm season ; third, attendant risks due to glass breaking from
various accidents, including, in some sections, large Summer hailstones.
Where an all-glass greenhouse is used, different methods are employed to
cut down the light in Summer. The principal one is to coat glass on the
outside with a mixture of white lead and gasoline.

The chief objection to the long-narrow type house with opaque roof
is that it is not compact and multiplies walking steps. A successful modi-
fication in nearly square form has been worked out, in which enough
light is secured in the centre of the building by a series of skylights in the
roof, comprising about one-quarter of the roof area.

When the window^s or sashes are open they should be fitted with in-
side screens of ^ inch mesh to keep out insect enemies but admit gnats
and other forms of insects which, together with their larvae, form an
important item of fishfood.

The most satisfactory form of heating is with the hot-water system,
this being much more flexible than steam, and cheaper to operate. Modern
invention has produced automatic heat-control devices which can be

GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AND

installed at moderate cost. These are extremely vauable in guarding
against the dangers of sudden cold spells at night, particularly where
tropical fishes are kept or when young goldfishes have been hatched in
the late winter or early spring months. Oil stoves are not to be recom-
mended and should only be used in emergencies. The carbonic product
of combustion while small in quantity is, nevertheless, injurious. Water
absorbs most gases very freely.

The cement floors of fish houses should be provided with gutters next
to the tanks, these all draining to a single point so that the floors can
easily be flushed down.

A description of methods of building concrete ponds and tanks will
be found on page 220.

Commercial Breeding of Tropical Fishes. The detailed descriptions
of breeding habits described on pages 92 to 100 will give a practical
working basis for anyone wishing to enter this field commercially. There
are, however, a few generalizations which ought to be of value here. In
Nature the fishes manage to reproduce themselves without the help of
man. The three principal reasons are because they have water of the
proper temperature, food of the right character and plenty of opportunity
for the young to hide. All of the conditions can be produced artificially.
The European breeders use tubs, introduce a thick growth of plants, place
in one or more pairs of breeders as occasion demands, feed plenty of
daphnia, mosquito larvas, etc., and disturb the fishes as little as possible.
In the absence of greenhouses the tubs are sunk in the ground, covered
with wire netting in warm weather and with glass on cool nights or days.
Quite large tanks are sometimes used, placing different species with the
same breeding habits together, not attempting to sort out the various young
until fall. In the livebearing groups there is no likelihood of hybridization
if males and females of the same species are both present. Some fishes do
not like plants and will tear them out (cichlide group, for instance), but
as a rule the young very early appreciate their value and quickly hide
among them. They also hunt sloping, shallow edges where the larger
fishes cannot follow, particularly if Salvinia or other small floating plants
are along the edge.

A continuous, warm temperature is imperative for some species and
for these it is not worth while attempting to breed outdoors in a temperate
climate.

In selecting a stock to breed from for commercial purposes it is
inadvisable to choose the species which have already become common, even
though they are easy to breed. It is much better to pay more for some-
thing out of the ordinary if there seems to be a reasonable chance of
breeding it. The "fashions" change so rapidly in tropical fishes that we
could not attempt here to advise what to breed, as our book would be likely
to look old by the time it is off press.

Chapter Six

Some Hardy Native Freshwater
Aquarium Fishes

GOLDFISH VAKIETIES AND

NATIVE AQUARIUM FISHES

It seems to be human nature, especially in America, to assume that
the best things come from distant lands — the more distant, the better. In
this search for the rare and interesting we are apt to overlook excellent
material close at hand. There are many handsome native fishes admirably
adapted to aquarium purposes. They are easily managed, tenacious of
life, varied in habits and easily tamed. Those who have made collections
of our own fishes have found much pleasure in this form of the aquarium
hobby.

THE RED-BELLIED DACE

Chrosomns erythrogaster, not exceeding a length of three inches is
one of the most satisfactory of hardy aquarium inhabitants. During the
breeding season the belly, mouth and base of the dorsal fin of the males

Fig. 51. Red-Bellied Dace (Life sise)

are bright red. There are two black lateral lines on the sides, separated
by a band of pale gold, so that even when not in breeding colors, the
Red-Bellied Dace is an individual of attractive appearance. It is per-
fectly harmless, will eat any prepared food and is of active habits.
Native to the small streams of the Middle West. They are believed to
be community breeders requiring large space. The author placed six of
them in a 3 X 5 foot tank in May and several months later took out 30
well developed young, but the breeding was not observed.

Owing to their extreme agility it is necessary to catch the wild stock
in a minnow seine, operated by two persons.

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 71

THE ROSY-SIDED DACE

Lcuciscus vandoisidus

One of the less known, but very attractive aquarium fishes is the
Rosy-Sided Dace. The general color is silvery to green. A nearly black
lateral line runs the length of the body, and below this on the males is
a long patch of red, starting from the edge of the gills, as shown in
illustration. This varies in intensity from day to day, and is brightest
from February until September. As these fishes dart about the aquarium

^^# ^\^" ^^^
Fig. 52. Rosy-Sided Dace {Life sice)

the flame-like appearance of the red patches is most striking. Even when
not in color there is an interesting bronze-green effect to the scales at
the lateral Hne. This is always visible by reflected light, and seems to
show mostly at night. H the light is turned on them at night they show
very little red color, but in a few minutes it is quite plain.

The Rosy-Sided Dace is a large minnow and takes kindly to the
aquarium and is perfectly harmless, but unless plenty of room is pro-
vided it will slowly decline. Found in clear cool brooks, from the foot-
hills of the Alleghenies to the Carolinas.

THE BLACK-NOSED DACE

Rhinicthys atronasus

The Black-Xosed Dace is one of the best of our native fishes for
aquarium purposes. Found in abundance in small swift-running streams
of the Delaware Valley, it is an extremely active swimmer and not easily
caught unless cornered in a small pocket. From constant swimming
against the current it has developed some specialized kind of balance,
so that when introduced into the still water of the aquarium, the forward
part of the body continually drops so a level position is only main-
tained by an effort. This condition disappears in a few weeks and a new
equilibrium becomes established.

72

GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A]!^D

The Black-Nosed Dace is well rounded and full of body, the belly is
clear white and the black band encircling the body is quite intense.
It is perfectly harmless and will take almost any food. It is quite sub-
ject to a parasite which embeds itself deeply in the sides of the fish, pro-

FiG. 53. Black-Nosed Dace (Enlarged one-quarter)

ducing an appearance that can best be described as looking like "fly-
specks." This is common to many of the small wild fishes, and while
it is not known to have any serious results it is unsightly. Specimens
free from the parasite should be chosen where possible. The usual
length is from two to three inches.
They have been known to survive in the aquarium for several years.

THE STICKLEBACK

Froebel, the writer of kindergarten fame, in telling the children of
the civilized world the life story of the stickleback, has given great promi-

FiG. 54. The Stickleback (Enlarged twice)

nence to this interesting little fish. The interest centres chiefly in the
breeding habits. Sticklebacks are nest-builders. The male is architect,
contractor and workman. He selects a suitable location, and by tireless
efforts gathers together bits of plants, refuse, etc., and makes them into

TROPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES 73

the form of a ring with a roof over it, leaving only an opening for the
female to enter to deposit her eggs. The nest is glued together by a sticky
substance exuded from the body of the male fish, who assumes a bright
red color in parts of the fins at this period. After the female has deposited
her eggs he drives her away, looking after the nest and young himself until
they are about 10 days old. He is very pugnacious at this time and will
attack any living thing that approaches. Different species probably vary
somewhat in details of breeding habits. An English authority claims that
in Nature the male persuades as many females as possible to deposit their
eggs in liis nest. The Stickleback is well known as an aquarium fish, but
it should not be kept with other fishes. It prefers to eat daphnia or bits
of small worms.

THE CHAETODON

Chaetodons build their nests directly among plants off the bottom.
These fish are less of fighters and depend more upon hiding their youtig

Fig. 55. The Chaetodox (Enlarged one-quarter)

than upon boldly protecting them. The Chadetodon is one of the most
charming of all aquarium fishes. Many of them are exported to Europe,
where they are highly esteemed and bring good prices. This fish has
quite an individuality — its peculiar markings, precise movements and
genteel manners setting it quite apart from most other fishes. It swims
principally by use of the pectoral fins, which are so transparent as to be
scarcely observable, giving the fish the appearance of moving about by

GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AND

will-power, without physical effort. Chaetodons greatly prefer live
daphnia to all other foods. If fed upon them regularly it is difficult to
get them to touch anything else, starvation under these circumstances not
being uncommon. They do fairly well on dried shrimp once they take it.

THE SUNFISH

The Sunfish is one of the most widely distributed and best known
of our freshwater fishes, American boys being well acquainted with them.
Most of us have seen the tidy, clean spots fanned out by a pair of sun-
fishes. This is the "nest" in which the eggs are deposited. Both parents
protect the young, attacking all comers in a vicious manner. Excepting
the Chaetodon, or black-banded sunfish, all of the several species are
pugnacious, especially when large. They should not be kept with other
fishes unable to protect themselves and it is inadvisable to have one much
larger than its fellows, as it will "bully" the other inmates of the aqua-

FiG. 56. The Common Sunfish

rium. Sunfishes have a decided carnivorous tendency, much preferring
live worms or flies to prepared foods. In winter they will take shreds
of raw liver. Of the dry foods, ground dried shrimp is the best for them.
The coloring of the sunfish shows to excellent advantage in the aqua-
rium, and it will be found a very tame and interesting pet. It can with-
stand severe temperature changes and will survive for years if suitably
fed.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 75

THE SILVERFIN

Of all the native fishes tried in the aquarium by the writer the
Silverfin {Notropis analostamis) stands out as one of the most satis-
factory. For aquarium purposes the male fish should be selected. The
ends of their fins are of a whitish, phosphorescent color from May till
September. Darting around in the acjuarium, their sleek lx)dies overcast
with a pale steel-blue, and sides laced with black edgings of scales they
make a most attractive appearance. Two of them will often indulge in
what appears to be a game of tag, during which they will chase each
other around a short circle, producing the effect of a pinwheel.

Fig. 57. The Silvkrfin or Satinfin (Slightly enlarged)

A 50-gallon aquarium, with plenty of open space, containing about
fifteen adult male silverfins is most fascinating.

They are very hardy, tame, and will eat any prepared food. Harm-
less to other fishes.

They may be caught in the open reaches of the fresh tidal portion of
the Delaware as well as its upland tributaries.

Silverfins have been kept in aquaria for several years, but care should
be exercised to cover with a screen to prevent their leaping out.

The Darter

The darters have no swimming bladders and are therefore consider-
ably heavier than water. They move along the bottom in jerky motions
somewhat like hopping. When in reach of their prey they make a short
leap. Although this seems to be short of the object they always succeed
in getting what they go after. One would imagine them to have a long
tongue like a frog, moving with invisible rapidity. There is something
quaint and droll about the darters. The majority of them cannot stand
warm water.

76

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

The Rainbow Darter Esteoma coerulea is probably the most bril-
liantly colored of our native fishes, being barred with red, blue, orange and
green in most striking fashion. On account of its brilliant coloring it is

Fig. 58. The Darter (Enlarged nearly twice)

known as the Soldier Fish. It occurs in shallow streams of the Middle
West. Extremely fond of daphnia or very small worms, but may be-
come educated to taking shreds of raw meat. They can be kept success-
fully and are well worth the trouble.

THE KILLIFISH

Killifish, both fresh and saltwater forms are among the most hardy
of the smaller fishes. Used largely as bait-fish on account of their
tenacity of life, they exhibit the same quality in the aquarium, standing

Fig. 59. The Killifish or Bullhead Minnow {Enlarged one-half)

very bad treatment before succumbing. The barred sides and fleeting
irridescent colors are most attractive, particularly in the saltwater form
of Fundulus diaphanus. They will eat anything and are harmless to
other aquarium fishes. Boys usually know this fish in streams as the
"bull-head" minnow, while the popular name on the New Jersey coast
for the saltwater form is "Mummychug." Size 3 to 4 inches.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

77

THE GOLDEN ORFE OR IDE

Originally imported from Southern Germany, the Golden Orfe has
become one of the best ornamental pond fishes. They do not stir up the
mud as do goldfishes and are more active in avoiding their enemies.

Fig. 60. The Golden Orfe or Ide (Young)

The color on the back is orange dotted with black, shading to lighter on
the sides and white on the abdomen. The extreme length is two feet,
requiring probably ten years of growth under favorable circumstances.
The young are suitable for aquarium keeping, but the top must be
screened to prevent their leaping out. They do best in spring or running
water and have been successfully bred in the Government fish ponds at
Washington.

THE CATFISH

Any of the forms of Catfishes are well able to take care of them-
selves in an aquarium. If not large they will not touch other wild fishes,

Fig. 61. Stone Catfish

but should not be kept with goldfishes, as they are likely to nibble at their
long fins, Catfishes like animal food best, but will take boiled cereals.

GOLDFISH VAKIETIES AND

THE GOLDEN TENCH

Tinea aureus.

As a showy fish of golden orange hue the Golden Tench is con-
sidered second only to the goldfish itself. Covered with exceedingly fine
scales and dotted with black it presents by reflected light an irridescent

Fig. 62. The Tench (Young)

effect, comparable to that of an opal. By transmitted light they are
sufficiently translucent to show the skeleton and internal organs. Al-
though timid they become quite tame and will live on any kind of fish-
food. Harmless to other fishes and otherwise thoroughly desirable.
Tenches should be bred in open ponds with mud bottoms.

The Green Tench is the ancestor of the Golden Tench and differs
principally in coloring, its color being of a bottle-green character.
"Tench-green" is a popularly recognized shade of color in some parts
of Europe. Tenches are liberally supplied with protective slime and it is
believed by some that fishes injured by accident search out a tench to rub
the injured part against. For this reason it has been known as the
"Doctor Fish."

Fig. 63. The Sucker (Young)

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

79

THE SUCKER

As a novelty the Sucker may be kept in an ac|uarium. It is by no
means a handsome fish, appearing somewhat awkward and chimsy. Pre-
ferring vegetable foods, it will also take earthworms. In habits it is
perfectly harmless.

Fig. 64. The Shiner

THE ROACH, OR SHINER

Here we again have one of the very hardy small aquarium fishes.
It is decidedly active, and if kept in a bright light shows its brilliant
silvery sides to advantage. The Roach is seldom still and has a stimulat-
ing effect upon the more lethargic members of a general collection. It
is of a gentle nature and is not at all particular as to what it is fed.

Fig. 65. The Chub (Youiiy)

THE CHUB

Not usually known as an aquarium fish the Chub, in the smaller
sizes, does very well and may be kept with other fishes whether small or
large. It is a nest-buildcr. but requires a much larger space than is to
be thought of in an ordinary ac|uarium. The Horned Dace, or Creek-
Chub, is the most lively, and is the best species for the aquarium. Chubs
are vegetarians, thriving on boiled cereals or white wafer food.

80

GOLDFISH VAEIETIES ANT)

THE MULLET

Sometimes known as the Chubsucker, the Mullet in the smaller sizes
makes a satisfactory aquarium fish, entirely harmless and of rather

Fig. 66. The Mullet (Young)

attractive appearance. The back is green, sides are yellow and abdomen
is white. May be fed on ordinary fishfood but has pronounced vegetarian
tendencies.

Fig. 67. The Common Eel (Young)

THE EEL

Small eels may be kept with a collection of wild fishes, but they look
out of place with and are dangerous to goldfishes, having the same habit
as the sunfish and catfish of nibbling at the long fins. They are good
scavengers, quickly eating any dead snails or other decomposing matter.
Nothing is too bad (nor too good) for them to greedily eat.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

81

THE SOLE

Achirus fasciatus
Among the interesting novelties in aquarium fishes is the Sole, often
known as the Freshwater Flounder. Aquarists popularly call it the Aero-
plane Fish on account of its easy, horizontal progress through the water,
the swimming being accomplished mainly by an undulating motion of the
fins at the edges of the body, as shown in the two upper figures of the
accompanying illustration. The third figure indicates the under side of

Fig. 68. The Sole (Young)
the fish, while the lowest pictures the Sole as it lays half concealed in the
mud. In the aquarium these fishes frequently fasten themselves flat to the
sides of the glass by suction. They may be gathered from the muddy flats
of tidewater streams of the Atlantic Coast. Chopped worms make a
suitable diet for them. Sizes such as pictured are good aquarium in-
habitants.

THE CARP

The Carp is one of the most widely known of fishes. Its tenacity
of life is extraordinary considering that it is not an air-breather or laby-
rinth fish. When sold as a food fish it is kept alive for a day or two when
barely moistened with water. Common goldfishes well wrapped in wet
Anacharis or Myriophyllum and packed in a tight tin box can safely be
sent on a 12-hour journey or more.

A number of varieties of carp are kept as ornamental pond and
large aquarium fishes. The principal ones are the Mirror, the Leather
and the Golden Carp. There are in this country at the present time some

82 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AKD

extremely handsome fancy carp of Japanese breeding-, having blue backs,
red sides, white bellies, and with the large irregularly placed scales of the
Mirror Carp. It is to be hoped these will be propogated here.

Fig. 69. The Mirror Carp (Young)

THE CARNIVOROUS FISHES

The Pike, Bass, Perch and other predaceous fishes are not suited to
the household aquarium, although small ones are sometimes kept. If fed
upon meat it is important that no uneaten particles be allowed to remain.

COLLECTING IN STREAMS AND PONDS

There are pleasures connected with the stocking of a wild-fish
aquarium which are unknown to those interested only in goldfishes. The
actual contact with Nature, the study of the fishes in their native habitat,
the ever-present possibility of finding something new, the companionship
and health afiforded on outings are some of the more important assets of
the collector. For this work two kinds of nets should be provided.

These consist of a minnow seine and a large landing net of small
mesh, fitted with a sectional rod. The seine should be operated by two
persons. Poles are attached to the lower lines containing the sinkers,
while the float line is pulled forward by the hand, slightly behind the
lower line. They can be operated with great success in any shallow
stream where the fish can be manoeuvered into a corner for the final
sweep. Care should be exercised to put back all fish not actually wanted,
and also not to try to carry so many home that they all sufifocate before
arrival. The landing net is used mainly in streamlets. It is operated by
a quick overhead swoop and the net pulled rapidly over the bottom
towards the fisherman. The net should be of a depth of about 25 inches
and had best be secured to the frame by brass rings of about ^^ inch
diameter, procurable in upholstery stores. These prevent the cutting of
the net when dragging over stones. Very little success can be had by
scooping upwards.

Chapter Seven

Alphabetical List

of the

Principal Aquarium Fishes

From Tropical and Temperate

Waters, followed by a Description of

their Requirements, Peculiarities

and Breeding Habits

Note. — A number of the foreign dealers in their
catalogues use obsolete scientific names of fishes.
As these books have heretofore been the only
source of information to many fanciers, we
include the old designations in this list, bracket-
ing them, as far as possible, with the correct
names.

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H H

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 9:^.

DESCRIPTIVE KEY
To Foregoing List of Aquarium Fishes

For all practical purposes the breeding habits of known aquarium
fishes may be classed under 18 headings. Instead of needless repetition,
each of these is described but once. By matching the following key letters
and figures with those in the preceding Alphabetical List, full information
regarding any of the listed fishes may be had.

EXPLANATION: The letter B stands for "Breeding" and the
figure in alphabetical list specifics to which breeding group each fish
belongs.

The letter N stands for "Nature" or disposition of the fish, particu-
larly with reference to zvhethcr it may be kept with other fishes, and if
so, under what conditions.

Bl GROUP

DANJO FAMILY. All fishes of this group drop their eggs freely
in the water, while actively swimming alongside their mates, frequently
more than one male participating in the (external) fructification of the
eggs as extruded. This group of fish have a tendency to devour their
eggs as soon as dropped and under aquarium conditions this should be
guarded against by providing shelter for the eggs to fall amongst, such as
stones, densely-growing vegetation, etc. The eggs are non-adhesive and
can be moved by the action of the water or otherwise at any period during
development, which lasts only from 3 to 5 days, according to the tem-
perature of the water, action of sunlight, etc. The young fish hang like
"commas" against the glass sides of the aquarium in which they hatch
(the parent fish having been carefully removed immediately after
spawning was completed), and after a couple of days they adopt the
position of normal adult fish in the water, swimming horizontally in
search of food, such as infusoria, etc., and later small daphnia and
Cyclops. Young fishes of this group take kindly to finely powdered dry
fish foods and do well on it. As they grow, the larger specimens should
be separated from the smaller ones or the latter will be starved. Tem-
perature of the water should be maintained at the MAXIMUM given
under temperature herein or slightly higher and so kept until at least two
months later before allowing it to drop at all.

Bla GROUP

BARB FAMILY. Same as the preceding, except that the eggs are
adhesive to the plants, stones or glass aquarium sides.

94 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AXD

B2 GROUP

THE BASS OR THE SUNFISH GROUP. Eggs are fertilized
externally of the parent fish, deposited in a hollow excavated in a sandy
bottom by the adults for this purpose and carefully guarded by the male
until they hatch a few days later and also after the young fish first emerge
and are defenceless from their enemies. Microscopic live food in the form
of Infusoria must be adundantly provided for the young fish, who, even
later, do not take kindly if at all to prepared dry foods.

B3 GROUP

THE CARP FAMILY, including all the varieties of the Goldfish.
Spawning habits same as Group Bla, differing only in respect to the fact
that the fish under B3 deposit their eggs all over the plants, mainly at
the surface. Fish of Group Bla usually deposit their spawn near the
bottom. See page 48.

B4 GROUP

THE CHARACIN FAMILY, mostly distinguishable by the small
adipose or fat rayless fin situated on the back between the dorsal fin
and tail. Spawn like Group Bla.

B5 GROUP

THE CICHLID GROUP. Fish of this family deposit adhesive
eggs on stones or, in the aquarium, on the convex side of a large flower-
pot, laid on its side. Eggs hatch in 3 or 4 days, during which period the
parents take turns in swimming over the eggs and fanning fresh water
over them all the time. When the young hatch out, the parents carry
them in their mouths and deposit them in a depression previously made
in the sand at the bottom, where they jealously guard them against all
comers — human or aquatic — frequently removing dirt, etc., from the
"nest" and transferring the baby fish to new nests three or four times a
day. For the first ten days after hatching the young fish eat nothing but
live in a swarm at the bottom, while they absorb the contents of the um-
bilical sac or bag of yolk-of-egg-like fluid beneath the abdomen. At the
end of this period they begin to look like fish and then they all get up
off the bottom and swim around their parents who continue to guard
them closely. From this time on they require "Baby" Fishfood — small
Cyclops, daphnia, etc., though they will eat dried fish food if finely
powdered. Ten days after they begin to feed, the parents should be
removed, each to a separate aquarium. The Cichlids dislike and destroy
plants, so none should be provided but they require clean, pure water, so
some should be changed (siphoning all dirt from the bottom) — daily,
replacing it with hydrant water, blended hot and cold to same tempera-

TKOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 95

ture as that in the aquarium, which should be of an uniform summer
heat. Keep no other fish with CichHds.

B6 GROUP

THE GOBY GROUP (Gobiidie). These include bottom fish from
all over the world, occurring in shallow streams or shallow shore-waters —
marine, brackish and fresh. Little is known of their spawning habits,
beyond the fact that some spawn among — and on — the stones on the
bottom. Others — ^^small species — will spawn on the inside — /. e., concave
side — of a piece of drain pipe laid on its side in the aquarium and others
spawn among the weeds (roots) on the sand or mud. Some protect
their spawn. Others do so but little if at all. Among the Gobiidae are
our well-known "Darters" — familiar to the country schoolboy — also
the "Miller's Thumb," "Tommy Cod" or "Sculpin" (Cottus ictalops,
Rafinesque) and the most peculiar "Mud-Springer" (Periopthalmus
koelreuteri) from the Tropical Tide-waters of Africa and Asia. Shallow
water is a prime requisite for these fish, the last named species requiring
stones projecting above the water, sloping up gradually, upon which the
fish likes to climb out of water and "bask." As to rearing the young,
aquarists must experiment and persevere, as very few have had much
success with them and those who have reared any have been European
aquarists with abundant time and patience.

B7 GROUP

LABYRINTH FISH (possessed of an air-cavity or cell beneath
each gill-cover, in which a supply of air is stored for breathing). These
fish are all air-breathers, coming frequently to the surface to replenish the
air in the "storage chamber." Most of the Labyrinth fish build "bubble
nests", i. e., secrete a "glue" in their mouths, and blow air-bubbles
coated with this glue, which float in a mass and in which the male
places the eggs, immediately after fertilization, which takes place in
mid-water, the parent fish intertwining their bodies immediately under
the nest of bubbles at frequent intervals, extruding a few eggs at a time.
Then as the fish relax their embrace, the male catches the eggs in his
mouth and blows them — each one separately — into the air-bubble nest.

As soon as all the eggs have been extruded from the female and
fertilized in the external embrace of the parent fish, the male having
gathered all eggs into the floating nest, he then drives the female to as
distant a comer of the aquarium as possible (as he knows that she will
eat the eggs if she gets a chance) and for about 36 hours the male fish
guards the nest and eggs and re-arranges the eggs and adds more bubbles
where required. Towards the end of the hatching process, the male
spreads the nest out as much as possible, to give the hatching young as

96 _^ GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AI^D

much air surface as he can and indeed it is difficult for the newly-hatched
young to escape from the air-bubbles, as they are held there by the
attraction of cohesion. Within the next three days they become independ-
ent and scatter from the nest, whereupon the male fish must at once be
removed. The female should be removed as soon as she is observed to
have finished spawning and has been driven away from the nest by the
male. The temperature must be kept high — mid-summer temperature
as in a hot-house — for at least two or three months after the young hatch
out. The young fish being microscopic must be well supplied with Infu-
soria— the microscopic dust-like form of living creatures native to most
old, standing water, which in turn must be cultivated. See page 57. Do
not disturb the young fish. They must remain in the aquarium in which
they hatch at all events until they are plainly recognisable as fish of their
ozun species and at least a quarter of an inch long. As soon as they
seem to have assumed solidity, i. e., dark, round bodies, which they should
have at ^-inch long — they must be fed with finely-strained young cyclops
and daphnia and from that time on the growth is rapid. All young fish
— of whatever kind — which outgrow their fellows, must be separated into
other aquaria or compartments, as otherwise they starve or eat the smaller
ones.

B7a GROUP
LABYRINTH FISH WHICH BUILD NO NESTS but deposit
their spawn loose and floating in the water. This class includes the
Snake-heads (Ophiocephalidse) and the Climbing Perch (Anabantidse).
Hardy fish, generally accustomed to living in cooler water than the Nest-
building Labyrinth Fishes — though at the breeding season the temperature
should be raised to at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit and kept high for the
first two or three months of the existence of the young fish. Parent fish
both to be removed as soon as eggs appear — if they do appear — for it is
difficult to get these fish to spawn. Care of young fish same as that
indicated for the young of Nest-building Labyrinth Fish.

B8 GROUP

TOOTH CARPS (Oviparous or Egg-laying Group) — These include
the Haplochilus Group, the Fundulus Group or "Top-Minnows" native to
our American streams, Cyprinodons, Lebias, Cynolebias and Rivulus.
The Haplochilus mostly spawn at or near the surface on floating
bushy plants. So do the Rivulus, and most varieties of the Fundulus.
Lebias and Cynolebias bury their eggs separately in the bottom and they
take seven to eight zveeks to hatch, so not much success can be expected
from these last two species. Others again spawn nearer to the bottom
and like Haplochilus and Rivulus, eggs adhere to plants separately.

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 97

The general rule with Haplochilus and Rivulus is to keep sexes
separated and then put the pairs together for three or four days in warm,
sunny aquaria with dense plant growth, such as Riccia, the small, light
green Utricularia, Anacharis, bushy Thread-Algae or Willow Moss
(Fontinalis). Then remove parent fish, keep separate again ten days
and repeat — each time using a separate aquarium and plants for receiv-
ing spawn. Eggs take about ten days to hatch at summer temperature
with Rivulus and Haplochilus and individual young fish must be fished
out with a teaspoon and kept in tlie same aquarium ivater at same temper-
ature at zi'hieh they hatch and fed first with Infusoria and later with small
Cyclops and Daphnia.

B9 GROUP

LIVE-BEARING TOOTH-CARPS. AH the fishes belonging to this
class are natives of America — the Southern States of the United States,
Central America and South America (Northern). They are generally
easy to keep and breed in the aquarium, require mostly uniform summer
temperature and clean water, and if well fed and kept in well-planted, spa-
cious aquaria, reward their keeper abundantly with frequent large families.
When the females are seen to be "heavy" with young (indicated by a
dark patch in the abdomen and great fulness of that part) and when they
act restlessly, seeking to avoid their mates and getting into the thickest
vegetation in the aquarium, then these females may be considered as
about to give birth to their young. They must then be placed preferably
in large straight-sided glass bell jars (8 inch), in about 3 inches of water,
with thick floating vegetation occupying at least 2/3 of the jar and that
placed toward the light in a sunny place and covered over with a piece of
glass or a plate. When the young are born, they instinctively seek shelter
from their cannibalistic parent and swim toward the light. If the vegeta-
tion is toward the light, most of the young ones will be safe from the
mother until discovered, when the mother fish can be returned to the
aquarium, most of the plants removed from the jar and the young fed on
powdered fishfood. The breeding jars shown on page 230 do away with
the necessity for plants or other shelter for the young.

BIO GROUP

MISCELLANEOUS FISHES. Some species do not come under
these classifications and are unknown in respect to their breeding habits.

Ell GROUP

MOUTHBREEDERS. The fish should be provided with a mod-
erate sized aquarium with about two inches of clean sand in the bottom.
The fish prepare a shallow nest in the sand, where the eggs are first

98 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

laid and fertilized. In most varieties the eggs are then taken in the
mouth of the female, who, by a chewing movement of the jaws, keeps
a constant flow of water among the eggs. The parent not carrying the
eggs should be removed. So large is the volume of eggs that the head
of the fish has a noticeably distended appearance. The hatching takes
from fifteen to twenty days. After the young are hatched it may be
several days before one may see them, for the mother at first only allows
them to swim out in search of infusorian food at night. At the first sign
of alarm they rush back into her mouth. When about a week to ten
days old they are able to look after themselves and the mother should be
removed and the young fed on microscopic food, daphnia, etc. The best
breeding temperature is about 75° Fahrenheit. From the time of spawn-
ing until separated from the young the female should be offered no food.
As this is a drain on the health of the fish, they should not be bred oftener
than twice a year.

B12

PYRRHULINA FILAMENTOSA AND COPEINA ARNOLDI

are the only fish listed in this work having the peculiar breeding habits
here described. Both fish leap out of the water and adhere for several
seconds to the sides or cover of the aquarium, which should be somewhat
rough. Ground glass or slate will do. Fifteen or twenty eggs are
deposited at a time until from 100 to 200 are laid. When spawning is
completed the female should be removed. The male, by swift movements
of the head and tail, splashes water on the eggs at short intervals. The
eggs hatch in from two to four days, after which the male parent should
be removed. Feed young on infusoria and later on small daphnia.

B13

EGGS ADHERE ON GLASS sides of aquariums or stones or plants,
remaining there until hatched in a few days. The young swim in a shoal
around the old ones as in B5 Group. Feed in similar manner.

B14

STICKLEBACK males build nests from bits of plants, glued to-
gether. After female deposits eggs he drives her away and assumes entire
parental responsibilities. See also page 72.

B15

POLYCENTRUS SCHOMBURKI spawns on upper concave side
of small flower-pot, laid on its side. Newly hatched young hang from
leaves by means of a hook on the top of their heads. Eggs and young
protected by male, as female is apt to eat them, and should be removed.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 99

Badis badis spawns on the inside of a small, upright flower-pot, sunk
half way in the sand. Remove both parents when young are first observed.

B16

PTEROPHYLLUM SCALARE spawn like B5 Group, except that
eggs are deposited on glass sides or broad-leaved plants, and they do not
bury the yonng, but stick them in different parts of the aquarium for
several days. Eggs hatch in 2^ days. Parents should be removed in
eight days. To breed these fish requires a well-planted aquarium and
plenty of seclusion. Breeders should be well fed up on mosquito larvae,
young tropical fishes or freshwater shrimps. They also eat Water-
boatmen. Breeding temperature, from 75° to 80°.

INDEX TO NATURE OR TEMPERAMENT OF FISHES

Different persons "will have varying experiences zvith the same kinds
of fishes under apparently identical conditions. In fact one's ozun obser-
vations will sometimes change from year to year. The zvriter, for instance,
has heretofore ahvays found that Mexican Sivordtail fishes kill Coral
Snails, yet this year they are living together in perfect accord. There-
fore zve bespeak the indulgence of those zvhose observations do not agree
in all details zvith the statements here published. The data has been
gathered from the most experienced experts the zvorld over, and zvhih
some minor points may, from time to time, be open to question, the main
facts stated are authentic and should form a practical guide for the hand-
ling of nearly all knozvn varieties of aquarium fishes.

Nl GROUP

Indicates that fish so marked are of a generally peaceful disposition,
not disposed to hunt trouble nor to persecute or devour other species
kept with them. This data applies mainly to the Barbus group among
tropical fishes and the Cyprinoid minnows in the temperate division.
However, large fish of any kind take advantage of their size and tyran-
nize over their associates more or less and also monopolize the food. So
even if a fish is indicated "N. 1." it is as well to keep only such fish
as are of approximately the same size together — just as large young fish
should be separated from smaller ones of the same species.

N2 GROUP

Fish of this class are generally amiable and peaceable and are mainly
of the live-bearing Tooth-Carp group. Some of these, again, such as
Gambusia affinis and varieties, Pseudoxiphophorus bimaculata. Phnl-
loceros caudimaculata and Belonesox belizanus — (this last not a Tooth-
Carp) — should only be kept with their own species. Males which "rule

100 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

It:

the roost" will fight with their rivals as roosters in a barnyard. Dense
vegetation and sufficient space are the best protection for weaker fish, and
females which have just had young should be isolated for several days
before being placed with their males, or they may be persecuted to death.
With the exceptions of the species herein specified, most live-bearers will
live together in harmony in a large aquarium. It is not good policy to
keep Live-bearers, Egg-droppers (Barbus), Egg-layers (Oviparous
Tooth-Carp) and Labyrinth fish all together. Such things can be done
in very large aquaria but the weaker will soon show signs of persecution.

N3 GROUP

Members of this group are mostly the egg-laying Tooth-Carp, such
as Haplochilus, Fundulus and Rivulus. These can be kept in large num-
bers together, if of same size, but otherwise are best kept in pairs. The
larger species such as H. sexfasciatus, Rubrostigma, &c., are best kept
only with their own species as their tendency is generally warlike. They
eat their own and other smaller species and individuals. Dense vegeta-
tion and space are the best remedy.

N4 GROUP

Fish of this classification are more or less inclined to hunt trouble,
but when kept in numbers together, each fish is afraid of a rear-attack
from his fellows and consequently harmony prevails. This refers to the
Labyrinth fish or Bubble-nest builders and is noticeably manifest among
Paradise fish. Polyacanthus cupanus and dayi, Osphromenus. &c. The
Dwarf gourami is remarkable for his peaceable and amiable nature but
he is not entitled to undue credit on that account as it is more than likely
that his shyness has much to do with his decent behavior. At breeding
time he will attack his mate should she approach the nest containing eggs
or young — but then she should be taken out anyhow and that rule applies
to all Labyrinth fish.

N5 GROUP

Very large Goldfish and other members of the Carp family some-
times eat their smaller brethren, but in the main they are peaceable and
devoid of the combative element. Except for a scavenger fish or two
it is better to keep highly developed goldfishes by themselves.

N6 GROUP
This group includes the most voracious species, such as the Cichlids,
&c., which should be kept separately, even from their mates, except at
breeding time and then large flower pots should be provided for shelter
and no plants kept with fish. Large, shallow aquaria and abundant clear
water are requisite.

Chapter Eight

Tropical Aquaria

102 GOLDFISH VAKIETIES AND

TROPICAL AQUARIA

General Conditions, Where one has limited space and wishes for
a variety of fishes, it will be found that many of the tropical varieties now
available will do admirably. Most of them stand close quarters, thriving
in aquaria which are nothing more than quart jars. Some of the fishes
are of such belligerent disposition that they must be kept alone, and in
these cases it is well that they will stand cramped quarters. Larger
aquaria with divisions for separating the different species are a conveni-
ence, especially if artificial heating has to be resorted to.

The question of space, however, is not the chief point in favor of
tropical fishes. It is the endless variety of habit, structure and coloring,
opening as it continually does new avenues for personal study and observa-
tion. Some idea of the variation in breeding habits alone is contained on
pages 92 to 98.

Feeding. The majority of tropical fishes are not heavy feeders like
goldfishes and there is not great danger of overfeeding. Care should of
course be taken to leave no unconsumed food in the water. When they
are warm and comfortable they may be fed twice daily, although this is
not essential.

The proper types of food are shown on pages 84 to 9L Those indi-
cated as "omniverous" may be fed the same as goldfishes, see page 128.
An exclusive diet of dried shrimp agrees with most tropical fishes, but
some variation is better. In summer they should have some daphnia, and
in winter, enchytrae, see page 136.

Heating, The majority of tropical species thrive in temperatures
ranging from 65° to 80° F. Nearly all will do well at 70°. For short
periods they will stand temperatures below that at which they will thrive,
and it is very probable that after a few generations in our climate they
become accustomed to cooler water. When fishes are new and rare it is
emphatically a mistake to experiment on seeing how low a temperature
they will stand. That should be left for a later period after breeding has
been accomplished and a stock secured. Tight-fitting glass covers should
be provided for all tropical aquaria. This helps keep the temperature up
and prevents the fish from leaping out. Forgetfulness of replacing covers
has caused the loss of many prized fishes. They will not suffocate if glass
is down close.

Fk;. 70. Sphoiof^s z'ittatus (Croaking (.ourami)

This picture illustrates one phase of the breeding habits of the luibble-nest
luiiders. Tlie males takes entire charge of the nest and voung.

Fig. 71. The Chaxchito {Hcros facctus)

Fig. 72. Polyacanthus dayi

Upper Fish, T (Male)
Lower Fish, o (Female)

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

105

If one is not blessed with a heated greenhouse or a room of warm,
even temperature, artificial heating becomes necessary. There are several
devices which accomplish this purpose, but only a few are satisfactory.
In general those are to be avoided which concentrate the heat on a small
portion of the aquarium water. This action drives out oxygen and other
life-giving qualities and also produces uneven temperature for the fish to

^^h

Fig. 74. Indirect External Heater

Fig. 73. Direct External Heater

Fig. 75. Indirect System Through Base, Showing iMrRovEo Vapor Expansion
Hook Under Water

pass through. Such an arrangement is shown in Fig. 7d. Aquarium
water is directly heated in the small outside reservoir and circulated
back again. With this device the water intake may easily become clogged,
which soon causes the water to boil. This heating method is frequently
used, but it is bad in theory and in practise. A better arrangement is
shown in Fig. 74, which is a complete hot water system not using the
aquarium water. The tubing is of copper, ^ inch inside diameter, and of
thin walls. Before bending any such work to shape it should be packed
quite hard with dry sand and the ends corked up. This prevents
buckling at the sharp curves. At the very top of the loop rising from the
heating coil should be bored a 54-inch hole and a small funnel soldered
around this. All hot water systems create some vapor. If this were
allowed to collect in the pipe there could be no circulation and boiling
would soon take place. The two open ends need not be soldered together.
They can be satisfactorily joined by rubber tubing, but this should be
arranged to occur in the rising side of pipe in the water. This whole
arrangement can be hooked over the edge of any aquarium and has the

106

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

advantage that the aquarium does not have to be raised to heat from
underneath. The first filling of the system is not always easy. Water is
poured in the funnel until it will take no more. Then the hand is placed
over the funnel and the pipe turned upside down. Turn upright again and
put in more water. Hold at different angles. When it will take no more
water, try heat under the coil. If the water in funnel moves up and down
there is still air in the tube. Sometimes it can be removed by actively fill-
ing and discharging a fountain pen filler in the opening. When it works
smoothly and the heat travels past the funnel, it is all right to use. The
funnel must always contain water, or boiling will soon occur. Ha filled
bottle with small neck is inverted, stood in funnel and secured in some
manner, it will last a long time without refilling. The copper tubing
should be heavily nickled after bending into shape, as copper is fatal in
the aquarium.

Fig. 75 shows a modification of the same idea with the pipe carried
through aquarium base. The little hook at top of the hot water system
was devised by the writer to avoid the necessity of filling the funnel, and
to have the heater more concealed. The tubes within the water are of
glass, connected by rubber, the end hook also being a separate piece. By
removing this the system is easily filled. When it is on, the vapor collects
in top of hook, and when enough has collected to force a bubble out, a drop
of water is automatically sucked back to take its place. The air space in
hook also prevents any circulation between hot water system and aquarium
water proper. This system also gives a higher percentage of heating
efficiency than the outside hook-on form.

^^I^^^

Figs. 76 and 11. Direct Heating Through Pan and Through Metal Disc

For the highest efficiency and greatest all-round satisfaction, note
should be taken of Fig. No. 76. This is a 4-inch agate pan set in the
cement base described on page 216. When making the aquarium it is no
extra labor to set this in. For aquaria already constructed it is somewhat
of an undertaking to cut a sufficiently large hole, but it can be done and
the pan cemented on top. Fig. 77 shows a simple and fairly effective ex-

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 107

pedient. After hole is cut in slate, pour in lead or tin. When the metal
is poured, use a form made of putty so that the surface of metal will come
as high as the sand. The object in using the inverted pan is to have
the heating surface come just above the sand. Then the heat is the most
efficient as well as fairly diffused and does not interfere with the roots of
plants. The objections to this type are that the aquarium has to be raised
and that there is an occasional drip of condensed water caused by com-
bustion. The best flame to use is a small gas Bunsen burner. They may
be had of some scientific apparatus concerns or dealers in German
aquarium supplies. These dealers also handle a rather good all-glass
aquarium for heating by lamp, and which does not need to be raised.
There is, however, the eternal liability of cracking. All-glass aquaria at
best are liable to crack, and particularly when unevenly heated. In the
German catalogs and aquarium publications will be found numberless
heating devices, but after trying many of them and inventing some de-
fective ones himself, the author finds those described here the most
practical. Smells are caused by chilling the flame before combustion is
complete. No more than the tip of flame should be allowed to touch the
heating surface. Even this is not necessary in system shown in Fig. 7(i.

Heat Control. In a room where there are violent changes of tem-
perature, particularly when these dip to the cold side, it is desirable to
have some means of heat control. To start in the simplest way first, an
aquarium may be kept noticeably warmer over night by covering with a
thick blanket, quilt or any warm fabric. If near a window the curtain
should be pulled completely down. Another help for any aquarium near
a window is to have a sheet of glass standing on the base and leaning
against the top of the aquarium. This sheds much of the cold air which
constantly falls from a window in cold weather.

Tropical aquaria may be kept at a satisfactory temperature standing
on a hot-water radiator, the heating result not being so extreme as mi^ht
be supposed.

The most satisfactory means of controlling temperature is to heat by
gas and use a gas thermostat to control gas flow. See Fig. 7%. This is
placed either in the water or tightly against the outside of the aquarium
and insulated from the influence of surrounding air by plenty of wool or
cotton batting. It contains a large body of mercury over w^hich the gas
passes through a small space. As the water rises in temperature, the
mercury expands and so reduces the gas supply, and v\ce versa. It is a
very ingenious and eflFective device and may be obtained from makers of
scientific glassware at small cost. Those selling them are glad to give
instructions regarding regulation, etc. The Arthur H. Thomas Company,
of Philadelphia, are specialists in this line. With this equipment in oper-

108

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

ation one never need worry about aquarium temperature as long as the
wind cannot blow out the small pilot light.

For devices to heat aquaria electrically we recommend the Simplex
Electric Co., Cambridge, Mass. They are experts and sell their apparatus
at moderate prices.

Fig. 78. Gas Thermostat

Chapter Nine

Marine Aquaria

110 GOLDFISH VARIETIES ANT)

MARINE AQUARIA

The maintenance of a marine aquarium is really much simpler than
is generally supposed. If aquarium lovers realized the great charm and
the unlimited possibilities of a marine tank, there can be no doubt many
more would interest themselves in this particular form of the hobby. It
is safe to say that not a score of persons in America at this time have
saltwater aquaria, although when once established they are as easily kept
as the freshwater kinds. Then, too, there is the fascination of collecting
from a field of inexhaustible variety, giving the student always something
new to work on, with the ever-present possibility of discovering some fact
of value to science or to his fellow aquarist. To those living within easy
journey to the shore is the added attraction of the trip to the seaside, the
pleasures of which are doubled by the pursuit of such a delightful and
absorbing study.

Aeration. There are just a few points of radical difiference between
the fresh and saltwater aquaria. We have carefully pointed out the oxy-
genating value of aquatic plants, and shown how their work is necessary
to a "balanced," or reciprocating aquarium. This factor must be left out
of consideration in the saltwater aquarium, for marine plants perform
this function to so small a degree as to become unimportant. The Ulva,
or Sea Lettuce is the most satisfactory of the easily obtained plants. It
has been known to do well for quite long periods. A few bits of cork
placed beneath will cause it to float to the top, where it looks and does
best, at the same time shading the water. The beautiful Actiniae, or Sea
Anemonies, which are flower-formed animals, present a bewildering array
of form and color far surpassing any freshwater plants. These were
once supposed to form a connecting link between the animal and vegetable
worlds, but this is an error, the beautiful creatures belonging purely to the
animal kingdom. Other attached animals also make up for the lack of
vegetable life as far as appearance is concerned.

For the lack of oxygen from plants we have either to depend upon
mechanical processes, or to substantially reduce our number of aquarium
inmates. The surface of the water takes up enough oxygen to maintain
a few animals, but if our ideas are more ambitious it will be best to install
an air pump such as described on page 10. This will more than com-
pensate for any plant deficiency, especially if the air is liberated in very
small bubbles. In the case of large maine aquaria where the water is
constantly pumped out, filtered and returned, the oxygenating is accom-

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 111

plished by a very simple, and at the same time, clever device. The water
is discharged with some force from a small pipe into the open end of
another pipe just enough larger that the water discharge pipe will fit
loosely in it. The second pipe is the liberator, and is carried to the bottom
of the aquarium, where it is bent to a right-angle so as to shoot the air
somewhat horizontally across the aquarium. If the aquarium is very deep
(3 to 5 feet), the liberator pipe should extend about 8 inches above the
surface of the aquarium. Otherwise the air in the column of water in
the liberator pipe would make it so light that it would back up instead
of discharging in the bottom of the aquarium. In shallower aquaria the
liberator pipe will not need to stand so high above water-level. By this
method the air bubbles are mostly very minute, producing the effect,
from a little distance, of smoke. The heavy specific gravity of marine
w^ater enables us to break up the air finer than in fresh water.

Marine Aquaria. While it may not always be possible to entirely
avoid having metal come into contact with the water of the marine
aquarium, this risk should be reduced to a minimum. Copper, brass and
zinc are particularly dangerous. The metal now coming into use, Monel
metal, is not entirely free from copper, but, on the w^hole. is very satis-
factory, and has the advantage of great strength as well as a pleasing
light color. Marine bronze is also good and not so expensive as Monel.
Iron pipes and valves lined with lead are now made, especially for resisting
chemicals. These are very fine for carrying marine water to and from
the aquarium. Something less expensive, but quite satisfactory for large
work, is wooden pipe. Quantities of this piping are used in the marine
division at the Philadelphia Public Aquarium, with perfectly satisfactory
results. For the aquarian, working on a comparatively small scale, lead
pipe is best.

With the all-glass aquarium we have no metal problem to contend
with. Aquaria of the smaller sizes are satisfactory for marine purposes
if not overstocked. In the executive offices of the Battery Park Aqua-
rium in New York City, they have in successful operation a number of
bell-jar aquaria, one of them having continued without interruption, except
for change of animals, since 1900. This should give reassurance to those
who hesitate to establish marine aquaria.

In using metal-framed aquaria a narrow strip of glass should be
placed over the cement in the corners. A recent improvement is a glass
rod of suitable diameter, say about one-quarter inch. This can be pressed
in all the way to the glass and the surplus cement wiped away, making a
substantial, quick and neat result. The disadvantage of glass strips is
that no thin glass is straight, the bend always making an unsatisfactory
job.

112 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AND

Lighting. Another radical difference from the freshwater aquarium
is that the marine aquarium requires considerably less light. When we
see such intense light at the shore, it is difficult to realize that only a few
feet down the light is so absorbed as to produce a very subdued effect;
yet such is the case. If a moderately strong light is kept on marine water
it will quickly turn green. To clear it will take several weeks of standing
in the dark. Requiring only a weak light should, in many instances, prove
a strong recommendation for the keeping of a marine aquarium where one
has insufficient light for the successful development of freshwater plants.
Mussels will usually clear green freshwater. The author tried a liberal
quantity of marine mussels to clear marine water, but three hours of direct
sun and five hours of strong diffused light multiplied the green vegetal
organisms faster than the mussels could keep pace with. The same
aquarium in the same light, when used as a regular goldfish container,
never became green.

Strength of Marine Water. For some reason not understood, pure
ocean water is not as successful in the aquarium as that which has been
somewhat diluted. The reason may be that while the fishes can stand
the change successfully, many of their microscopic enemies are unable
to do so — exactly the reverse of the theory of treating freshwater fishes
with a saltwater solution. Be the theory what it may, experienced marine
aquarists have obtained better results with diluted water in still aquaria.
Naturally, if new seawater can be continuously pumped in, nothing could
be better, particularly as this contains the desirable small food otherwise
difficult or impossible to supply.

A hydrometer for testing the strength of salt in the aquarium water
should be provided. Natural seawater has a strength of 1.023 to 1.031.
If this is reduced to about 1.020, the animals will do better than at full
strength. It should not go below 1.017, nor above 1.022.

Having established a certain water-level at a proper hydrometer
strength, it ought to be maintained at that point by the addition of pure,
freshwater, never using marine water to make up for evaporation. The
salts do not evaporate, and soon the aquarium would be in the lifeless
condition of the Dead Sea or Salt Lake. A glass cover will prevent some
evaporation, but if an air pump is used, some evaporation will be inevita-
ble. No trouble will be experienced if the water is kept to a level, as sug-
gested, by the addition of freshwater.

Shipping Seawater. If seawater must be shipped, careful considera-
tion should be given to the kind of carriers used. The action of saltwater
on zinc, copper, brass and iron is rapid, the resultant chemical action
charging the water with poisonous metallic salts. Of the metals men-

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 113

tioned, iron is the least injurious and zinc the most, on account of the
rapidity of chemical action of salt on this metal. Therefore, galvanized
iron is to be particularly avoided, as it is zinc-plated. The author on one
occasion could only secure a galvanized pail in which to bring a collection
home. As the trip was only three hours and the pail was a well-seasoned
one he thought the chances of success were reasonably good. When the
can was opened the water showed a slight milkiness and the fishes were
nearly dead, although they had not been crowded. On being placed in the
aquarium they soon revived. The best metal in which to ship is tin. This,
or any other metal, should first receive a coating of asphaltum varnish.
Even galvanized iron when asphaltum-coated is safe for journeys of
moderate length, but the asphaltum will eventually chip ot¥ and the pail
or can should be carefully looked over each time before using. It might
be well to say here that the life of tin pails for freshwater will last much
longer if coated with asphaltum varnish. A thin coat spread evenly lasts
better than a thick one.

The very best water-shipping medium is a protected glass bottle or
carboy. Arrangements can usually be made to rent or borrow a few of
these from drinking-water concerns. If possible the water should be
taken from several miles out at sea and not near the mouth of any large
river. Clear seawater may be stored indefinitely in carboys in a subdued
light, although it would be better to first filter it to remove the larger
microscopic life.

Artificial Seawater. Experience varies regarding the use of artificial
seawater. This may be due to difiference in the degree of purity of chem-
icals used or care in their mixing. The author has not been particularly
successful with artificial marine water, although some writers claim it to
be better than ocean water because of its freedom from impurities and
marine bacteria. The following is a correct working formula for artificial
seawater. There are other elements in the ocean, but in such small quanti-
ties as to be negligible for our purposes :

Sodium chloride (Tablesalt) . .2 lb. 85. 23. 18 gr.

IMagnesium chloride 3.> 55. 13 gr.

Magnesium sulphate 25. 33. 1 9 8 gr.

Potassium sulphate 53. 2'^ 10 gr.

and sufficient wellwater to bring the whole to ten gallons.

These proportions of salts, expressed in the ^Metric system, would be:

Sodium chloride 663 grams.

Magnesium chloride 75 "

Magnesium sulphate 50 "

Potassium sulphate 15 "

Added to 25 litres of wellwater.

114 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A]^D

For chemical reasons the salts should each be dissolved sepa-
rately and enough water finally added to make ten gallons. Any good
drinking water will do to mix with, although distilled water is not to be
recommended because of its total lack of mineral content. Turk's Island
salt is evaporated seawater and has been successfully used by the Govern-
ment at Washington, In mixing this or in preparing the foregoing arti-
ficial water, the final test for strength should be by hydrometer as previ-
ously directed. As chemicals vary in strength and in weight owing to
different degrees of moisture, the hydrometer used in solutions of about
60° Fahrenheit furnishes the only accurate gauge.

Newly made artificial marine water ought not be used for several
days, but be given a little time to ripen. An occasional stirring helps the
process.

Cleaning Marine Water. It is desirable to keep the marine aquarium
crystal-clear, both for the benefit of the inmates and the pleasure of the
observer. To this end several factors must be borne in mind. Start with
clear water. Do not overcrowd nor overfeed. Use only subdued light.
Quickly remove decaying plants, dead mussels, anemones, etc. Occa-
sionally siphon off the bottom (see page 229) and after setting, pour back
the clear water or return through filter. Very little loss of water is occa-
sioned if the dregs are thrown away after water has settled, particularly if
a tall jar is used. The filter arrangement described on page 233 is very
desirable for the marine aquarium. The more pretentious establishments
run the water oft' into deep filter-beds of fine sand, squirting it back into
the aquarium under pressure to increase oxygenation. This, next to run-
ning seawater, is the ideal arrangement, but is out of reach of the ordinary
mortal.

Temperature. This matter depends very largely upon the climate
from which the aquarium inhabitants come. For this reason it is not well
to mix animals of tropical and temperate zones. Many of the tropical
fishes come north in summer and can successfully withstand a temperature
of 62° F., but in the confines of an aquarium they will not prosper in the
lower temperatures required by the fishes of our own climate. Tropical
fishes are happy in a temperature ranging from 68° to 75°. Some of them
can succeed when it is even warmer, but it becomes difficult to satisfac-
torily oxygenate the water.

Fishes and other marine animals of the temperate zone prefer a range
from 55° to 68°. It will be noted that the tropicals and temperates meet
at 68°, so if the attempt is made to mix them, this is the temperature that
should be closely adhered to.

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 115-

Collecting Specimens. The best places for collecting a miscellane-
ous assortment of marine animals are the back bays, pools, pockets,
marshes and small streams where the ocean overflows at high tide and
recedes from at low. Rocky coasts furnish particularly fertile fields for
the aquatic hunter, and those of New England offer rich attractions in
varied and wonderfully beautiful vegetation. Wood's Hole is a particu-
larly famed point for all sorts of marine naturalists and collectors. How-
ever, anybody can go to the beach nearest home and gather material that
will well repay for the effort. Two persons in bathing suits operating a
seine 4 by 14 feet (see page 82) will be surprisingly successful right in the
surf anywhere. As before stated, the little sheltered places, pools around
breakwaters, piers and rocks should be thoroughly investigated by hand
and net. As with freshwater, let the collector not be too ambitious for
numbers. It is better to get a few good specimens home alive and well
than have a bucketfull of dead and dying. Unfortunately for those inland
there is nobody at the present time in America making a commercial busi-
ness of marine collections for the household aquarium. We have reason
to believe this could soon be developed into a profitable business, such as
has been done by many in Europe. Germany, with no seacoast of her
own, has thousands of successful marine aquaria stocked mostly by
dealers.

Tropical marine fishes are of dazzling beauty, a fact enthusiastically
attested by those visiting any of our large American public aquaria, or
by those so fortunate as to travel in Bermuda. Most of our tropical
specimens are collected at Bermuda and at Key West, Florida. The
various kinds of kelp and coral fishes make quarium specimens of such
bewitching beauty that any attempted word-description of them would
appear extravagant. Anyone wishing to make a collection of them should
employ a local fisherman at the collecting point who knows the haunts
and ways of the fishes, and who understands the danger of sudden tropical
storms. Such collections should be shipped in a liberal quantity of water
and artificially aerated by pump or pouring whenever the train is still for
more than fifteen minutes. On shipboard, new water of the proper
temperature should be frequently given.

Stocking the Aquarium. Perhaps we can repeat to advantage that
it is better to under- than to over-stock the aquarium. This is particularly
true of the marine aquarium, first, because if we spoil the water by dead
animals it is some trouble to obtain more, and second, because the crea-
tures are used to more oxygen in the vast ocean than can be had in a
crowded aquarium.

Particular vigilance needs to be exercised when the animals are first
introduced, as some of them may not survive the change.

116 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AN^D

It is best to start with some of the more hardy fishes, such as the
marine kilhfish, to see whether the aquarium conditions are in proper
working order. It will be time enough to branch out more elaborately
after this is proven. The author some years ago received this same
advice from a leading expert and, although loath to follow it, decided
that advice worth asking for was worth following. This proved to be of
value, for the killifish were all dead in a few days, and the same would
have been true of more valuable specimens.

Anemones and other creatures attached to rocks should, if possible,
be placed in the aquarium without detaching. Low forms do better if
handled with a dipper or spoon. Whether or not mussels are alive can
be determined by tapping lightly on the shell with a small stick. In
health the shell will promptly close. Gentle disturbances of the water
will show whether anemones and other low forms are living, as they will
respond by slight movements. Care on this point is of vital importance,
as decomposition is very rapid.

Sea Horses. Owing to the vastness of the field we cannot here go
into a detailed list of marine aquarium inhabitants, but we cannot pass
the subject without special mention of those quaint fishes, Sea Horses
{Hippocampus). Although appearing like some mythological animal in
miniature, they are true fish. They make a very striking appearance in
the aquarium, always attracting great attention. Their tails are prehen-
sile and are used much the same as a monkey's, fastening themselves to
twigs, bits of grass or any small object, ready too let go in a moment,
swim a short distance and fasten somewhere else or perchance socially
link tails with another. Their movements through the water might be
described as being very sedate. Locomotion is produced mainly by a pro-
pellor-like movement of the dorsal fin, the body being tipped forward at a
slight angle. Although the movement through the water is not rapid, it
has the appearance of being accomplished entirely without effort. The
breeding habits of the Sea Horse are also most peculiar. The female
develops an intromittent organ as the breeding season approaches, while
the brood-pouch on the belly of the male becomes thickened and vascular.
The fishes face each other, the female advances, places one or more eggs
'in the pouch of the male, retreats and repeats until the spawning is
finished. When the eggs have hatched, the pouch splits slightly and he
works the young out of it by gently rubbing against a firm surface. The
young are as perfectly formed as the parents.

Sea horses feed upon small marine Crustacea about equal in size to
daphnia. Some European aquarians claim to have gotten them to eat
dried shrimp, but, so far as we are able to learn, nobody in America has
been successful in this. Although different attempts have been made to

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 117

induce them to eat daphnia, it has seldom been accomplished. The
author was fortunate enough to induce Sea Horses to modify their ideas
on diet, the process taking considerable patience. Daphnia can only live
about 5 minutes in seavvater, so at first they all die while the Sea Horses
are apparently thinking the matter over. By repeated trials the smaller
fishes finally started to eat and the larger ones took the hint from the
smaller. Shrimp will eat the dead daphnia, but if much is left over it
should be quickly siphoned out or otherwise removed. Sea Horses can,
no doubt, be brought to living in saltwater of a hydrometer strength of
1,017, which would probably increase the length of life of daphnia in the
marine aquarium to 10 minutes or more. As the Sea Horses usually eat
by reaching out for food while attached by their tails to a piece of sea-
weed, it is necessary to gently circulate the daphnia through the aquarium
by the aeration system or other means.

Fig. 79. The Sea Horse (Life sice)
Hippocampus hudsonius

These strange fishes are of worldwide distribution. On the Atlantic
Coast they are more plentiful in September than at any other time, when
they are often brought up clinging to fishermen's nets. Only one species
occurs on the Atlantic Coast. This is the one shown in Fig. 79.

Feeding in Marine Aquaria. Practically all marine animals are
carnivorous. Chopped oysters, clams, fish, worms, crab meat, scraped
lean beef and shrimp form the principal articles of diet. Uncooked
shrimp, shelled and put through the finest meat chopper is excellent and

118 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

is particularly valuable, as it can be had all winter in the better tish stores.
Anemones should have small bits of food offered them with forceps
(shown on page 229), lightly touching their tentacles with the offering.
Three times a week is often enough to feed these lower forms.

The fishes may be fed every day or two, according to temperature,
always remembering that animal food not quickly eaten soon fouls the
water.

Diseased Marine Fishes. Very little is known about treating the
ailments of marine fishes. As salt is the general cure-all for freshwater
fishes, it has been discovered that less salt is the best general treatment
for marine fishes that are out of condition. Short trials at hydrometer
test 1.010 are beneficial, this, of course, being brought about gradually.
Otherwise we see no reason why animal parasites, injuries, etc., should
not be treated the same as for freshwater fishes.

Chapter Ten

Terraria and Aqua-Terraria

120 GOLDFISH VAKIETEES AN^D

TERRARIA

The terrarium has not as yet aroused any marked degree of interest
in America, but as we have followed Europe in the cultivation of exotic
fishes, it is not unlikely that we shall follow their study of exotic amphib-
ians and other inhabitants of the terrarium and aqua-terrarium. Certainly
the subject can he made one of absorbing interest, offering special attrac-
tions to those fond of making their own collections. Unfortunately, even
in Europe the terrarium itself has not been developed into a thing of
beauty. Most of the numerous designs shown for sale are stiff and clumsy-
looking, but this may be largely overcome by artistic planting. Un-
doubtedly there is still plenty of room for individuality O'f treatment which
would give one more the feeling of a bit of Nature brought to the home
rather than into a miniature prison.

The variety of animals which may be kept is extremely large and
many of them are of distinctly attractive appearance, even to the novice
or outsider. Those of us who have learned to admire the Telescope
Goldfish should suspend judgment on some of the apparently less attrac-
tive specimens in the terrarium. for it may be that both standards operate
on the same general principle, that is, the more hideous, the more admired.

Aside from the matter of beauty there is a wonderful range for ob-
servation, study and original research in the terrarium. In looking over
the European catalogs one is struck with the large number of lizards, frogs,
newts, turtles, reptiles, etc., which are exported from North America. It
will be seen therefore that we do not have to leave our own shore to obtain
good collections.

Terraria are divided into four natural divisions, according to the
needs of their occupants : dry-temperate, dry-tropical, moist-temperate,
and moist-tropical. The differences in these will readily suggest them-
selves to the mind, being matters mainly of ventilation and artificial heat.
The sides are usually of glass, one of them, as well as the top, being
removable in order to work inside or to introduce or take out specimens.

The dry-temperate terrarium is naturally the simplest in construction,
the principal requirements being open ventilation and a small drinking
pool with cement edge and mirror bottom. This seems to be necessary
to some of the creatures, as they are accustomed to seeing the sky re-
flected in water and without this they do not at first recognize it as water.

The moist-temperate form is only slightly ventilated and is supplied
with a larger water pool, as the animals are usually amphibians. It is
well to be able to drain this off without removal.

Fig. 80. The Red Tritox (Sperlcrfcs ruber)

Fig. 81. K-M-lo.-ku Ani a-Tekkakil'.m. Awwrhed First Pkize i;v iiik Tkiidx Sikiii\

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 123

Tropical terraria, whether moist or dry, are heated artificially from
below, the heating device being concealed in a false bottom. The heat
may be applied either to a pan of sand or water or used in the form of a
miniature hot-water heating system as indicated in figure 75 for heating
tropical aquaria. The pipes are not carried over the top, but through or
around the bottom.

The forms of terraria are quite diverse, according to requirements
or fancy. Quite a number are divided into two halves, one side contain-
ing a shallow pool with tall bog plants, the other side being for dry ter-
restrial plants, the two sometimes being connected by a sloping ladder
over the division, so that the animals may cross at will. The same
arrangement is further developed into the aqua-terrarium by having the
moist side in regular aquarium form and filling about two-thirds deep
with water. Where tree frogs or other climbing animals are kept there
should be a ladder or other arrangement to enable them to seek varying
levels at different times, as this desire seems to be an important part of
their nature. Tree frogs in some parts of the w'orld are better known as
"weather frogs." They are kept where they may either remain in water
or climb to different levels at will, and are regarded as good barometers
to foretell approaching weather conditions. Undoubtedly the state of the
atmosphere has something to do with their movements in this respect.

Terraria for moths and insects usually have three sides of screen
and one side of glass for clear observation.

Aqua-terraria may be considered a higher development, of terraria,
since their possibilities are so much enhanced on account of accommodat-
ing both terrestrial and aquatic animals and plants. One of the most
interesting kinds is devoted to the observation of aquatic insects. These
only contain a few inches of w^ater, in w^hich is planted bog plants, so that
the leaves stand well out of water. Very few of the aquatic insects
spend their entire lives in the water and some such provision is needed
for them. It is important that stones or other creeping-out places be
provided for turtles, frogs, newts and other amphibians, for it is a great
cruelty to oblige them to remain constantly in the water.

Quite artistic effects can be obtained in the arrangement and planting
of the terrarium and the aqua-terrarium. Natural bridges, lakes, water-
falls, archways, ledges, hollows, cliffs, caves, and other details may be
used to good purpose, but care should be exercised not to combine the
incongruous nor introduce objects out of keeping with the general
scheme. Stones cemented together are capable of good pictorial effects.
For moist terraria, pumice or other porous stone will be found useful, as
it retains so much moisture and makes a good foothold for ferns and
creeping plants.

124 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

An aqua-terrarium constructed for pictorial effect is made in the
form of an ordinary aquarium with terrestrial plants arranged in the rear
corners, thus giving the effect of a complete bit of landscape. The great
possibilities of this treatment are shown in the illustration on page 122.
This has the earth in slate containers reaching all the way to the bottom,
but in a form devised later the soil is in cement pans 6 inches deep which
are hung by hooks on the top edge of the aquarium proper, thus giving
more light at the bottom of the aquarium.

Swamp aquaria have received little attention, although they can be
made very picturesque, as will be seen in Fig. 82.

Plants. Most of the plants flourishing in greenhouses will prosper
in the moist terrarium, so that the selection is very large. The dry ter-
rarium is much more limited in this respect, the possibilities being con-
fined practically to cacti, agaves, aloes, houseleeks and certain hardy
ferns which have come from dry situations.

Planting. The main point in planting the terrarium is to procure
proper drainage by the use of pebbles. Plants can be set either directly
in soil above the pebbles or in pots. Fertilizer may be used in the lower
part of soil but very sparingly in moist terraria. In planting it is well to
keep in mind the natural surroundings of the animals and to provide, so
far as possible, those conditions which are agreeable to their natures.
For instance, the reptiles like to sun themselves in open, dry spots and in
planting for them this can easily be arranged. Amphibious animals like
to secrete themselves and hide from the light at times in thick vegetation,
a provision easily made in the moist terrarium. These same considera-
tions will present themselves when it comes to selecting a place for the
terrarium. The snakes delight to sun themselves for hours, so in plant-
ing it is well to use only such plants that will stand plenty of direct sun-
light. Terraria have one important advantage over aquaria in that at
least the smaller sizes may be shifted from one place to another with very
little effort, so that light conditions may be changed at will and hours of
sunshine increased as opportunity offers.

Occupants for Terraria. The large majority of cold-blooded ani-
mals of suitable sizes may be introduced. In the moist terrarium the
principal animals used are young alligators, newts, salamanders, tad-
poles, frogs, water snakes, turtles, aquatic insects and their larvae. For
the dry terrarium we have tree toads, hop toads, horned toads, beetles,
spiders, lizards, chameleons, tortoises, snakes, butterflies, moths and other
insects.

TKOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

125

Feeding in the Terrarium. The different occupants of the terrar-
ium naturally require a varying range of foods. Those containing cha-
meleons, frogs, toads, tree toads, do well on flies. It is a good plan to have
a fly trap which can be emptied into the terrarium. It is quite an amusing
thing to see the animals waiting for the flys to emerge after they have
learned that they are fed in this manner. The dexterity with which they
are caught and eaten is a never-ending marvel. While these animals can
live on little, they ought to be well fed in warm weather, giving them

Fig. 82 Swamp Aquarium

126 GOLDFISH VAEIEIIES AXD

once daily all the flies they can consume which will be found to be a
considerable number. In winter when flies are scarce they may be fed
on meal worms and meal bugs, which are easily cultivated in bran flour,
once a small stock is started. Particular care should be taken not to
allow any of the meal breeding stock to escape into the house, as it is
liable to become a pest in the kitchen.

Newts and salamanders are fed on bits of meat, fish, oysters, fish
eggs and worms.

Snakes and lizards require large and small insects, worms, small live
fish and animals.

Alligators and carnivorous turtles want live fish, tadpoles, crayfish,
small animals. In the absence of living food they can sometimes be in-
duced to take chopped oysters, fish, etc.

Box tortoises and land turtles are largely vegetarians and should be
supplied with berries, garden vegetables, mushrooms, cooked cereals,
snails and worms.

As with the aquarium, particular care should be exercised not to
allow any excess of food which is liable to decay, all such surplus being
removed immediately after the feeding hour.

Chapter Eleven
Fishfoods

128 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

PREPARED FISHFOODS

Nearly all aquarium fishes naturally desire a variety of foods, and the
nearer we can approximate Nature in this matter, the better will be our
results. Whatever foods we employ we should always keep in mind the
necessary balance of vegetable, animal and mineral content required.
One of the poorest fishfoods obtainable is the white wafer usually sold
in pet shops and drug stores. Of recent years many better foods have
been placed on the market, most pet stores keeping at least one of them.
They are granular in form, usually of a dark color and are composed of
a mixture of dried insects, meat, fish roe, flour, codfish and other ingre-
dients. Unless one needs a large quantity of fishfood it is better to pur-
chase a prepared article of the sort described.

An extremely good fishfood is puppy biscuit broken up and ground
in a cofifee mill to small sizes. This is cheaper than regular fishfood and
is very satisfactory. It is used as a base by some manufacturers to add
a few ingredients to and then place it on the market under their own
label.

A food used with considerable success is oatmeal prepared exactly
as it comes to the breakfast table, containing the same amount of salt.
This is especially recommended for feeding young fish when daphnia
have become scarce. The shape of a fish is permanently influenced by its
body development in the first few months, and different methods of
feeding produce, to a certain extent, different shapes. The effect of
oatmeal, fed plentifully, is to build the short, round body so generally
desired. For fish under ten weeks old the oatmeal should be squeezed
through cheesecloth to take out the kernels. Let the young fish have as
much as they can eat all day, but let none remain over night. This does
not apply to fish in their second year or over, although oatmeal in much
smaller quantity is good for them also. Large fish may be allowed to
eat uncooked rolled oats.

An improvement on boiled oatmeal is secured by adding a moderate
portion of powdered shrimp, dried fish roe or powdered shredded cod-
fish. For preparation of these ingredients see page 129.

A cereal known as Cream of Barley when cooked is a good fish-
food and may be used in conjunction with oatmeal.

Dried bread crumbs make good food for goldfishes, especially if
Graham or whole wheat bread is used.

In feeding any kind of dried granular food it is best to use small
sizes. Water causes the grains to swell considerably. This sometimes

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 129

produces indigestion when the food swells after being swallowed. Many
fanciers in Germany scald food just before feeding, which is no doubt a
good practise.

For those wishing to make a general fishfood suitable for all except
strictly carnivorous fishes, the following recipe will be found to be very
good:

Quarter tumbler powdered cod

Half tumbler powdered liver

Three-quarters tumbler powdered shrimp

Three tumblers flour

One teaspoonful Epsom salts

Three teaspoonfuls baking powder

Three teaspoonfuls powdered chalk

Add two raw eggs and sufficient water to make the mixture into
the usual consistency of bread dough. Place in pan and bake in oven.
When properly baked allow to cool and cut into thin slices. After
thoroughly drying grind in coffee mill and sift into desired sizes. Keep
all dry fishfoods zvell secured in bottles or other actually tight receptacles.
Moths and other insects gain a foothold and soon turn the food into a
mass of worms and refuse.

In above recipe the cod is prepared by purchasing a package of
shredded cod, drying over slow fire and grinding fine in coflFee mill. The
liver should be parboiled, cut into thin strips, dried and ground. Dried
shrimp may be had at Chinese grocery stores. It needs to be broken in
pieces, put through a coarse setting of the mill, then well dried for a few
days and lastly ground fine.

Whole wheat flour is preferable to white flour.

Powdered cuttlebone or eggshell may be used instead of chalk.

Those desiring to experiment on a food according- to their own
ideas of ingredients and proportions may safely use any of the following
items, in addition to those already mentioned : Pea flour, rice flour,
rye flour, vermicelli, boiled fish, boiled yellow of egg, fine corn meal,
ant eggs, chopped earthworms, water crackers, dried bread, chopped
meal worms, dried and powdered lettuce leaves, dried fish roe and dried
daphnia. In preparing the latter two ingredients they should be par-
boiled with a moderate amount of salt, then placed in cheesecloth ; water
squeezed out, spread out thin on tin plates and dried quickly in the sun
or slow oven. The drying must be thorough and quick. In drying it
will be found that the shrinkage in volume will be very great. It should,
therefore, be remembered that these ingredients are highly concentrated
and be used accordingly.

130

GOLDFISH VAKIETIES AND

When fish have been without fresh or living food for some time it is
well to occasionally give them a small quantity of scraped raw beef
(scraped crosswise to grain) or the dark, soft part of oysters, chopped
and slightly rinsed. Fresh shrimp, obtainable in most fish markets in
Winter, if passed through a fine meat chopper, makes an excellent change
of diet.

LIVING FISHFOODS

Living fishfoods are divided mainly into larvae and Crustacea, the
latter on the whole being the more important and the more generally

84

Fig. 83. Daphnia (Greatly enlarged)

Fig. 84. Mosquito Larva (Greatly enlarged)

Fig. 85. Egg Raft and Individual Eggs (Greatly enlarged)

Fig. 86. Pupa Before Transforming to Mosquito (Greatly enlarged)

Fig. 87. Cyclops (Greatly enlarged)

Fig. 88. Cypris (Greatly enlarged)

obtainable. Those which are of practical value to the breeder of fancy
aquarium fishes are few in number. Like the insect enemies of fishes,
four is the number of really important kinds.

Daphnia. Undoubtedly the best food for aquarium fishes is living
daphnia and this should be used at all times in preference to prepared
foods if obtainable. The fish will consume great quantities of these
crustaceans without suffering the usual effects of being overfed. A
certain degree of care must be exercised not to place so much daphnia
into the aquarium as to suffocate the fish. Daphnia breathe the free
o.xygen in w^ater the same as do fish and therefore too many will soon
exhaust oxygen from water. The fish will die of suffocation sooner than
the daphnia. Many fanciers have lost fish in this way. A good practise
is to give the fish all they can eat in about a quarter of an hour and still
leave some few daphnia swimming about.

A popular name for daphnia is "ditch fleas." This will give a key to
their appearance, as they are approximately the size and shape of a flea,
except that they have two rather long, branched swimming arms which
are always in motion and which gives the animal a sort of hopping
motion through the water. Without this perpetual swimming the daphnia

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 131

would sink to the bottom, as they are heavier than water and have no
air bladder. A greatly magnified illustration is shown in Fig. 83.

Daphnia (incorrectly pronounced "dafifney") are known among fish
breeders as "insects," but they are really not such, being perfect fresh-
water crustaceans as much as a crayfish. The shell though soft contains
mineral elements which are very desirable, while the flesh itself is easily
digested and nutritious. This little creature is found nearly all over the
world, principally in still pools where there are no fish. For the practical
purpose of catching daphnia in sufficient quantities to feed fish the
collector should hunt pools in which there is considerable animal or vege-
table decomposition in process. This decomposition favors the growth
of infusoria, small members of the animal kingdom on which daphnia
feed. Such conditions are found to perfection in the pools on the
grounds where city refuse is dumped. When the conditions are favor-
able the daphnia rise to the surface in such quantities as to color the
water, the usual color being a rusty red. The color varies from this to
olive and gray. Fish breeders like to see the daphnia as bright a red as
possible, although it is an open question as to whether the red ones are
better food. The same individuals will alternate in color, probably due
to a difference in food. Usually these crustaceans are not so plentiful
as to color the water and we have to use our eyes more closely to locate
them. The collector should provide himself with a cheesecloth net about
12 inches in diameter and 15 inches deep, fastened on a pole or jointed
handle not less than 6 feet long. If an examination of the water does
not at first reveal any daphnia, the net should be tried anyhow, using a
gentle stirring motion back and forth, to stir up the bottom water.
Daphnia have very peculiar habits and one can never tell from day to
day just how they are to be found, so that the collector will always have
to depend somewhat on his own resources. If an examination of the net
after dipping for a few minutes shows nothing, try elsewhere. If a
colony has been located do not take too many into the net at one time,
as the weight of the top ones crushes those beneath. A mass that would
bulk about equivalent to an orange should not be exceeded. Reverse
the net into carrying pail and repeat until the water is thick with daphnia.
In cool weather the pail may be carried in this crowded condition for
about an hour. If the day is hot, a piece of ice should be added to the
water — enough to keep temperature down until home is reached. News-
paper wrapped about the can helps the ice melt more slowly. As soon
as home is reached, add fresh water to the pail and transfer the daphnia
to tubs or tanks kept for the purpose. Like fish, the water they are in
should have as much air surface as possible. Do not try to keep too
many in stock, as overcrowding suffocates a number and these in turn
decomposing kill the living ones. The cooler they are kept, the longer

132 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A^D

they will last. In hot weather they can be kept about three days and in
October about two weeks.

A method of carrying live food which is growing in favor is to crate
them (without water) in layers in a box. Frames about 10 x 12 inches,
made of %-inch square wood, are covered on one side with cheesecloth.
These are floated in the water, the daphnia dropped in, spread out evenly
and placed in carrying box which, of course, needs to be airtight. The
number of layers are only limited by the depth of the box. Daphnia may
be spread to a depth of about >4 inch, but mosquito larvae may be piled to
Yi. inch without injury.

In transferring from carrying pails to stock tanks it is well to first
pour in small portions to a white enamel basin which enables one to
carefully go over the catch and remove any insect enemies. (See page
156.) If the daphnia are too thick to be readily examined, some water
should be added. A little care in keeping out the enemies at the start is
energy well invested. Most of the enemies and the dirt may be sifted
out (under water) by using a screen just large enough for the daphnia to
pass through.

A beginner will do well to make the acquaintance of an experienced
daphnia collector and go along with him on a trip. There are now
aquarium societies in many of the large cities, part of their activities
being the dissemination of such knowledge. All those interested in
aquaria should have either active or corresponding membership in one
of these organizations. If return stamps are enclosed the publishers of
this work will always be glad to put the beginner in touch with the
nearest society.

All beginners seem to have the idea that sufficient daphnia can be
raised in a tub or trough to feed with. This has been tried many times
but never with any degree of success. If the daphnia pools are too far
distant to make collecting practicable it is best to try to inoculate some
suitable pond nearby, but there should be no fish in the pond. Daphnia
if not crowded may be shipped quite a distance. There are several Phil-
adelphia collectors constantly making shipments in season.

The practical way to raise daphnia for food purposes is described
in the chapter on Wholesale Breeding (page 62).

Cyclops. Wherever Daphnia are found, Cyclops is pretty sure to be,
and also in a great many places where the former does not exist. They
are Crustacea of about the same size and color as Daphnia, but under
close examination are of entirely different structure and also of different
action, going rapidly through the water in straight lines with a jumping
movement. Like Daphnia they are divided into many species and are

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 133

practically worldwide in distribution. The two tabs seen near the lower
portion of the illustration are the egg-pouches of the female. These
develop in warm weather every two days, become detached and fall to
the bottom with 16 to 32 eggs which arrive at maturity in 30 days. They
are called Cyclops because, like the giant of mythology, they have but
one eye.

Mosquito Larvae. These are often known as wrigglers and are
familiar to those who have looked in rain barrels. Their bodies are
straight and about a quarter of an inch long. They rest at an angle to
the surface of the water as shown in Fig. 84, with head down, and are
always ready to "wriggle" to the bottom at the first sign of danger.
From midsummer on they may be found in still water where there are
no fish. They are taken in the same manner as daphnia, except that
one has to get them with a quick sweep before they can get down into
the water. They can usually be seen floating together in black masses.
The city entomologist anywhere will give information as to where they
may be obtained and will be glad to have his burdens lightened by the
fish breeder.

Mosquito Larvae may be termed a special food. It can only be
had in large quantities towards the middle and end of Summer, and is
only suited to the fish large enough to easily swallow it. As a food for
putting growth on fish an inch long or over it has no equal. The main
drawback to these larvse is that those not eaten quickly by the fish are
liable to turn to mosquitoes. This difficulty can be discounted by proper
management. Keep the stock of larvae in a tank covered by a sheet of
glass, leaving about two inches at one end not covered. Over this open
space place a piece of mosquito netting, drawing it up several inches
over the opening into a sort of inverted bag. Then draw a string
around top edge of tank to fasten netting down. As the mosquitoes
hatch they will fly upward into the netting bag, where they may be killed
before lifting the lid to get larvae for the fish. The larvae should be kept
out of the sun and as cool as possible so as to retard hatching. They will
stand great crowding, their only requirement being that there is room
for them all to get to the surface at one time, for they breathe air. This
is one advantage in placing larvae with fish, for, unlike daphnia, they
extract no oxygen from the water. By feeding them to the fish we not
only do well for the fish, but serve the interests of humanity by cutting
down the mosquito pest. In open pools goldfishes are one of the best
agents in keeping the neighborhood free of mosquitoes. Unfortunately
the mosquito larvae can live and hatch in temporary pools and in water
too foul for any fish to survive in.

134 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

Cypris. Incorrectly known as "hardshell daphnia," Cypris forms an
important article of fish diet. These Crustacea inhabit stagnant pools,
particularly those well stocked with decomposing vegetal matter. Al-
though capable of swimming freely they are more apt to remain close to
the bottom, but more especially to decaying wood. They are of a dull,
purplish black color about twice the size of an ordinary pin-head. Inex-
perienced observers frequently mistake them for Daphnia. Fishes do not
appear to be quite so fond of them as of Daphnia but they are a good
second choice. They are extremely hardy and will withstand dense
overcrowding in the foulest of water. Under favorable conditions Cypris
multiplies with astounding rapidity. They have been known to attack
newly hatched fishes.

Blood Worms. In freshwater pools nearly everywhere can be found
deep-red, jointed worms about half an inch long. See figure 89.
They usually stay at the bottom, living chiefly on decomposing vegetal
matter. Often they will writhe their way awkwardly through the water in

Fig. 89. Bloodworm (Larva of Chiroiionuis) (Enlarged four times)

a series of figure eights. They are the larvae of midges and form an
important article of diet for our native fishes. They are often found in
large numbers in daphnia pools and should always be taken when possible.
If too large for the young fish, they make choice morsels for the older ones.

Tubifex Worms. These are small thread-like worms living in mud
and sand. They form a tube or case below the surface, extending the
upper ends of their bodies from this in search of small organic food,
causing a circulation of water about themselves by a constant weaving

Fig. 90. Tubifex Worms Magnified and as the Ends Appear Above the Bottom

motion. When alarmed they draw back into the case. They are exten-
sively cultivated in Europe as a food for tropical fishes. A similar variety
is often introduced into goldfish aquaria when feeding daphnia, where
they become an unsightly nuisance, for goldfishes do not eat them. To

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 135^

get rid of them it is necessary to boil or renew the sand or else keep other
fishes in the aquarium for a long time. The worms have to be eaten off
many times before the stock dies. Germicides strong enough to kill them
will also destroy the plants, as they can withdraw into the sand. Along
the edges of ditches they are often so numerous as to make a solid rusty
red color. If they are scraped up together with the dirt and then washed
free they are greatly enjoyed by small tropical fishes.

Fairy Shrimp (Gatnmarus). While freshwater shrimp is not plenti-
ful enough anywhere to feed in large quantities, it is a delicate morsel for
grown fishes and should be taken as opportunity offers. They are found
principally in small streams, under stones and around decaying wood.
Placed in a large aquarium or tank with plenty of vegetation they will
multiply rapidly.

Fig. 91. Fairy Shrimp {Enlarged 3 times)
Fig. 92. Water- Asel {Enlarged 3 times)

Water-Asel {Asellopiis) is found in still or slowly moving water,
usually in the mud or clinging to vegetation. It cannot move rapidly
like Fairy Shrimp, but both are enemies of very small fry and both are
greedily taken as food by larger aquarium fishes, although the shrimp
move so rapidly that highly developed fishes have trouble in catching
them.

Fig. 93 Fig. 94 Fig. 95

Asplauchnopus myrmelco Pterodina patina Noteus quadracornis

Three Typical Rotifiers {Greatly magnified)

Infusoria and Rotifera. Of prime importance as food for very small
fishes are the Infusoria and other microscopic creatures of still water.
Some idea of their minuteness may be had when it is pointed out that
they are the natural food of Daphnia, Cyclops and other small crustaceans.
All except the very largest of the infusorians will pass through ordinar>'
cheesecloth nets, but silk bolting-cloth of fine texture will hold those

136 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AXD

which are large enough to be of real use. Further information on this
point is contained on page 140. Other infusoria are shown in Fig. 96.

Enchytrae. These are thread-like small white worms usually bred in
winter as a substitute for daphnia for feeding to tropical fishes. Gold-
fishes are also very fond of them, but it is a difficult matter to cultivate a
sufficiently large quantity to satisfy the appetite of several goldfish. For
some of the smaller fishes requiring living food they are almost indispen-
sable in winter.

The culture of these worms is quite easy and requires very little
attention after the start is made. Many of the dealers and fanciers in
New York and vicinity have a stock of enchytrae, from whom a stock
can be procured. These are placed in ordinary garden soil from which
all worms and larvae have been carefully removed. Wooden or earthen-
ware boxes about 15 inches long, 7 inches wide and six inches deep may
be filled with the earth to a depth of 4 inches. A cover glass must be
provided, this setting directly on the soil. Proper feeding is the principal
keynote to success. They like milk, white bread, boiled potato, cheese
rinds, etc. In a box of this size, four or five small holes are dug out
with a spoon, the food placed therein and the earth replaced. This is
done as often as the food is consumed and in three or four weeks the
harv'est of worms will be ready. Care should be taken not to overfeed,
as this will sour the soil. The soil should be removed from the box about
every two weeks, broken up, loosened and returned. This is considerably
facilitated if about half the soil is composed of leaf mold. The breeding
box does best in an average temperature of about 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

The worms are separated from the earth in a number of ways. If
but a few are desired the simplest way is to remove two or three spoons
full of soil and place same in water just deep enough to cover. In a very
short time the worms will come out of the soil and entangle themselves
in a bunch near the surface of the w^ater, when they may easily be
collected.

Another much quicker method is to take a piece of cardboard (the
cover of a shoe-box answers nicely) spreading a quantity of soil thereon
and holding over a heat ; this soon causes the worms to crawl to the top
of the earth, from which they are removed. However, great care must
be exercised that they are not injured by the heat, which would destroy
them, for the fish prefer the live worms at all times. As soon as they
appear and bunch on the surface of the earth, the heat should be removed.

Another method of separating the worms from soil is to place a por-
tion of the earth in an enameled dish, pouring sufficient water over same
to cover and placing thereupon a sheet of glass, which should rest above
and free from the moist earth. Because this will prevent sufficient

TKOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 137

oxygen from penetrating the dirt or water, the luichytrae will promptly
leave the soil, crawl up the sides of the dish and on the underside of the
glass cover, clinging to same in a variety of entanglements. The cover
can then be removed and the worms washed or scraped off and fed to the
fish. This of course is a slow process, but by preparing an hour or so
before it is desired to obtain same, an ample supply may be procured.

It is not advisable to feed all of the worms thus obtained as when a
considerable number are placed in a tank at a single time, some are bound
to escape from the bunch and, burying themselves in the gravel or sand,
die and pollute the water. It is said that they can exist under water for
about forty-eight hours and it has been noted that the larger specimens
are usually the first to succumb.

Still another way to remove them from the soil is to take a section
of blotting paper, placing the earth on it, and in a short time it will be
noticed that they will have gathered in a ring around the outer edge of the
soil, free from the dirt.

Chapter Twelve

The Microscope
In Aquarium Work

140 GOLDFESH VARIETIES AND

THE MICROSCOPE IN AQUARIUM WORK

Aquarium work in general and fish breeding in particular can be
made both more interesting and more successful by the use of a micro-
scope. For most purposes a very cheap instrument is satisfactory. In
fact, a low power lens is preferable to a high in examining water for
infusorian food.

All aquaria contain various beautiful and highly interesting forms of
microscopic life, some harmful, some negative, but mostly beneficial to
fishes. The constant changing of varieties and quantities presents a vast
field for new study, but we are here mostly concerned with the practical
points of raising young fish. On page 135 we refer to the use of infusoria
as food for young fish. To determine the presence of this food, touch
the tip of the finger lightly to the surface of the water, preferably to the
side nearest the source of light. This is because they are mostly at the
surface and they seek the light. Place this drop on a glass slide and
observe under a good magnifying glass or a low power microscope. The
latter is rather preferable, as the focus can be changed as required, and
it is fitted with a mirror to facilitate observation. In the absence of a
microscope the small pocket folding lens known as a "thread counter"
will do. This costs about twenty-five cents. In using this the frame of
the counter should be laid directly on the glass containing the drop of
water, and the whole placed over a mirror held at the proper angle to
reflect light upwards, but too strong a light should not be used. A little
experimenting will soon show the best light to work by.

The creatures which are of value as food to newly hatched fishes are
generally of a size just too small to be detected by the naked eye, or at
most they look like specks of dust. At the same time they are plainly
observable under a good magnifying glass or low-power microscope.
There is a great deal of life in the water of a smaller size than will be
shown in this way and which probably has no food value to fishes. The
high-power microscope would show many of these organisms and thus
be apt to deceive the observer as to the actual food value contained in
the water. Also with high magnification the field of vision and the area
of sharp focus are smaller, while movements are apparently much more
rapid, making observation difficult.

The majority of the valuable organisms are rotifers. These move
in a steady, revolving or rotating manner. On page 57 will be found
instructions for propagating these organisms for purposes of feeding
young fish. Most rotifers can be readily identified as such because they

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

141

swim through the water by means of circlets of hairs or cilia arising
from the front of their heads, by the vibratile action of which they
swim and disport themselves through the water. In fact, rotifers derive
their name from the wheel-like appearance produced by the motion of
the circlets of cilia while feeding and swimming. For culture water to
have practical food value a single drop should contain at least half a
dozen living objects that can be seen in the manner suggested. Water
rich in life will show rotifers so thickly that they almost touch one
another — probably two hundred in a small drop. In taking water from
the culture tank to feed the fish it should be skimmed from the surface,

Fig. 96.

Common Forms of Microscopic Amm.\l Life in Freshwater
(Greatly magnified)

1. LoxoDES, a very common form.

2. Ceratium, a very common form, especially in ponds and lakes.

3. PARAMAECIUM, a very common form, the slipper animalcule.

4. BuRSARiA, a very common form, one of the largest.

5. Stylonvcha, a very common form, found everywhere.

6. Phacus, not so common as the above numbers.

7. Spirostomum, common everywhere.

8. Euglena, common everywhere.

9. Chilodon, common everywhere.

10. Trachelocerca, common everywhere, the swan animalcule.

11. EupoLOTEs, not an aquarium in America without examples.

12. DiDiNiUM, predacous, feeds on paramaecium and others.

13. Trachelocerca, small but plentiful.

14. CoLEPs, the barrel animalcule, common.

142 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A:N'D

or the animals extracted from the water by a plankton net, which is
nothing more than a small net of the finest bolting cloth.

Besides the examination of water for living food there are many
other interesting possibilities for the microscope in aquarium work.
Diseases, the development of eggs, plant structure, algae, the structure
of daphnia, cyclops and other crustacean foods are a few of the sub-
jects which may be taken up with profitable interest.

A study of the microscopic world within the aquarium will prove a
most fascinating pursuit. Good microscopes for the purpose can be
purchased very cheaply now compared with former prices. An instru-
ment equipped with a 24 m. m. (1 inch) objective and a times 5 or 6
eyepiece will show everything needed, giving a magnification of 60
diameters.

Those wishing to explore this field a little further will find the
following works to be helpful: "Aquatic Microscopy for Beginners,"
by Stokes; "Marvels of Pond Life," by Slack; "Evenings at the Micro-
scope," by Gosse.

Chapter Thirteen

Diseases of Aquarium Fishes
and Their Treatment

144 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

DISEASES AND AILMENTS OF AQUARIUM FISHES AND
THEIR TREATMENT

Even in a state of Nature fishes are sometimes attacked by disease
and parasitic enemies. It is little wonder, then, that aquarium fishes,
weakened by inbreeding and kept under artificial conditions should be
subject to a number of maladies. The wonder is that the majority of the
diseases can be so successfully treated, under the circumstances.

Half the battle is won by taking the trouble in time. The aquarist
should always be on the alert to detect when his pets are a little out of
condition. As elsewhere stated, this is shown by listless movements, loss
of appetite, drooping dorsal fin (when the fish is in the habit of holding it
erect), congested or frayed fins, white slime on body and bubbles in excre-
ment. When a fish is even suspected of being in doubtful condition it
should be observed carefully for a day or two, and, if improvement is
not noted, given the required treatment — promptly.

Affected fishes should be immediately removed from their fellows.
There is always the possibility that they are suffering from a contagious
disease which may quickly spread. Great care should be exercised not
to use the same nets in handling sick and well fishes unless they are steril-
ized after exposure to disease germs.

Salt Treatment. In Nature the sick fish seeks brackish water or
saline earths, and we cannot do better than to follow this hint. Most of
the disease-producing bacteria of fresh water are unable to live in mod-
erate salt solutions. The point, then, is to find the strength of solution that
will kill the bacteria without injuring he fish. As the salt treatment
is the main one for curable diseases, we shall go into this at some length.

Kind of Salt. Ordinary table salt is likely to contain chemicals to
prevent caking in damp weather. These are injurious to fishes. How-
ever, if no other salt is obtainable, this can be made to do. The very best
medicine is real sea water, properly diluted. The next best is Turk's
Island salt, which is the residue from evaporated sea water. Where the
fish shows a tendency to constipation, one-quarter of the salt content may
be Epsom salts. Some writers recommend this addition in all cases.

Strength of Salt Solution. Common practice among the unin-
formed is to throw a sick fish into a strong brine solution, leaving it there
a few minutes until it shows signs of expiring. This treatment is usually

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 145

better than none at all. but is unnecessarily severe and is not so successful,
as milder solutions. In fact, the strong salt takes the protective slime ofif
the fish and leaves it in a condition where it is liable to be quickly again
infected, and in a weakened condition where treatment is not likely to
again be effectual. The usual practice of the author is to make a solution
in which salt is just easily discernable to the taste. As the sense of taste
varies in individuals, this is not a very accurate rule to give others. A
suitable proportion is one ounce of salt (approximately two heaping tea-
spoonfuls) to each gallon of water.

Methods of Treatment. Nearly all sick fishes do best in shallow
water and out of bright light. An enamel tray four inches deep by twenty
inches square is very good, or a well-seasoned tub filled to a few inches
is suitable. In placing the patient in the medicated water, see that there
is no considerable change in temperature. In warm weather a change to
very slightly cooler water is stimulating and probably does no harm.
Except for the air-breathing species (Paradise fish, etc.) a change to
several degrees warmer water is liable to produce suffocation, warm water
holding less free oxygen than cool. Aquarium fishes can live indefinitely
in the solution described, but in two days a salt solution begins to smell
stale and needs to be changed. A daily change is better. Should the
patient not show signs of improvement in four days, gradually increase
the strength of salt solution for two or three days until it is up to two
ounces (four heaping teaspoonfuls) to each gallon of water. After
remaining in this for two days the salt proportion is slowly weakened
down again to the first formula.

Ammonia Treatment. A popular treatment among European fish
culturists for fungoid diseases is the ammonia method. This has not been
generally accepted in the United States, but has been tried with remark-
able success in some instances where other treatments have failed. We
feel, however, that it should only be tried as a last resort. To one gallon
of clean water add ten drops of ordinary household ammonia. (Unfor-
tunately, this varies somewhat in strength.) Place the fish in this for five
minutes, but take out sooner, should it turn over. Remove to plain water
and then back to its tank. The treatment may be repeated at intervals
of three days if necessary.

Special Attention. All fish should, if possible, be placed, after any
chemical treatment, in a healthy tank containing green water. Sometimes
this is, indeed, the only treatment required.

Another very good after-treatment which may be used in summer is
to place the hospital tank under a small stream or drip. In making the

146 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A^D

final change from salt back to fresh water, this is a very good way to
accomplish it. Dripping water may do all that is necessary, especially if
a fish is only on the doubtful line, which is more often the case than not.

Summer offers one more treatment when all others fail — place the
affected fish in a shallow mud-bottom tank or pool. This is especially
beneficial to goldfishes.

In winter when a skilled aquarist finds a fish a little out of condition,
but with apparently nothing radically wrong, his first treatment is to
remove the fish to another tank if he has one available. This often has
the stimulating effect of a change of climate and usually wards off more
serious trouble that might be developing. As with ourselves and all
animals, it is much better to cure an ailment, if possible, by improved
conditions, rather than by recourse to drugs or chemicals.

In treating sick goldfishes it is important to give some attention
to temperature, especially in winter. Best results can be had at about 68°,
which is a little warmer than fishes are usually kept in the cool season.

Another point to bear in mind for those having air-pumps, is that
in the majority of ailments a cure is accelerated by a gentle flow of air
liberated in the hospital tank, but not agitating the water enough to worry
the fish. If no pump is at hand an occasional spraying is of value.

The foregoing is general in character but will be found useful in
most of the diseases that can be cured. We will now deal specifically
with the diseases and ailments.

Fin Congestion. This is the commonest of all fish troubles, and is
especially liable to attack the highly developed fins of fancy goldfishes.
Their long fins are no doubt deficient in circulation, causing low powers
of resistance. As soon as the fish is slightly indisposed through over-
feeding, sudden chill, protracted low temperature or other causes, fin
congestion is usually the first symptom. The fins of fancy goldfishes
may be considered very good barometers of the condition of the fish.
The appearance produced is well indicated by the name. The fins are
more or less red and streaked with veins. In advanced cases the fins
commence to split and fray, particularly the tails.

Treatment. Fin congestion, as well as being the commonest of gold-
fish diseases, is also the most easily cured. The salt-water treatment
described on page 144 is without a superior. When the trouble is con-
fined to the tail, it may be dipped in a 10-per cent, solution of peroxide
of hydrogen. Another method is to paint the fish with coal oil, keeping
the head and gills wrapped in a moist cloth. Usually lighter feeding and
plenty of room in fresh water will be all that is necessary if taken in time.
Two grains of permanganate of potash to the gallon of water is a sue-

TROPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES 147

cessful treatment. It is best to use this in an enamel or a glass receptacle.
Organic substances, such as wood or floating particles of dirt, quickly
decompose the chemical. The fish may be given the treatment several
hours at a time, but a fresh solution should be made daily.

An entirely different kind of fin congestion is sometimes prevalent in
the Fall, especially when the fishes are first taken in, young fishes being
more liable to attacks. The base of the tail and other fins becomes sud-
denly blood-red, the color sometimes extending to the body immediately
adjoining. If allowed to continue this form of the disease is rapidly dis-
astrous. Fortunately, it yields with surprising quickness to either salt
water or permanganate of potash treatment. When alternatives to salt-
water treatment are suggested, the fancier will certainly be on the safe
side by giving the salt the first trial, particularly if carefully followed out
as we have directed.

White Fungus. This is next to the most common disease among
goldfishes, and is responsible for the majority of deaths, except among
very young fry. It begins on the tail and other fins, extending over the
body and into the gills. When it reaches this stage it is usually fatal.

Fig. 97. Fish Affected With White Fungus
This illustration is characteristic of sick fishes in general. The fins are folded
and drawn together and the general appearance is one of listlessness.

The progress of the disease is marked by the development of a white scum
which destroys the fins, prevents the natural functions of the skin, and
when the parasite enters the gills causes death by sufifocation. The latter
stage is not always reached, the fish often becoming so emaciated as to die
in the second stage of the malady. The bacteria causing this disease are
present in virtually all water, but can make no inroads on a fish in good
condition, A weakened fish once infected will breed so many bacteria that

148 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AiN^D

they can successfully attack the remaining well fish. White fungus, there-
fore, is contagious, and the sufferer should be removed from its fellows
at once. This disease is caused by overcrowding, overfeeding, lack of
proper plant life, transferring to water of dififerent temperature and by
bruises in shipment.

Treatment. Fishes suffering from white fungus should be treated
exactly the same as those having fin congestion. If the fins have become
very much frayed and it is necessary to trim them, this can best be done
by a sharp knife, using a board to cut on. Scissors make a very poor
result. It is well to treat the new cut edges with a permanganate solution
of one grain to a glass of water. By grain we of course always mean
a certain quantity of w^eight, and not simply a small particle.

Sometimes raw spots are left after the fungus has been removed.
These or similar spots from other causes can be greatly helped by the fol-
lowing method : Wrap the head and gills of the fish in a moist rag, dry
the afifected spot and apply some Turlington's Balsam with a small piece
of absorbent cotton. Allow to dry for three or four minutes. This will
not endanger the life of the fish so long as the gills are kept moist.

Black Fungus. Many have supposed this disease to be invariably
fatal, but this is not the case. If taken in time, the majority of cases can
be cured. The great trouble is that the fish is in a run-down condition
before contracting the disease and has little power to withstand the
necessarily severe treatment. This disease manifests itself more on the
body than the fins, at first presenting a dark gray appearance, later turning
black and peeling off, leaving raw spots. A common place for the first
appearance is the center of the gill plates, and also on the sides of the
fish where they w-ould be most likely to rub, for the parasites are conveyed
principally by contact. The Protozoans causing this serious complaint are
animal parasites which soon lodge themselves so deeply in the skin of the
fish as to make treatment difficult. If they get into the gills the case is
considered hopeless.

Treatment. Start at once on the increasing salt method described
on page 144, only carrying it further. Over a period of from three to four
days the strength of solution should be carried to two and one-half ounces
to the gallon. Goldfishes can stand a great deal of salt if brought to it
gradually. As before noted, the strength should be slowly reduced before
returning to normal water. (The same is true of most other aquarium
fishes.) After the maximum strength of solution is reached the fish
should be pencilled on the affected spots with a 50 per cent, solution of
peroxide of hydrogen for a few moments (being careful not to slop over
on the healthy parts). The next day the spots may be treated with

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 149

Turlington's Balsam as described for White Fungus. Feed on good
nutritious substances, such as daphnia or chopped earthworms. If the
fish seems to be standing it satisfactorily, keep in the strong salt for about
one week, changing the water daily and relying on accurate measurements
for salt quantities. A progressive permanganate of potassium treatment
may also be used, but should not be continued as long, five days being
about the maximum for a fish in poor condition. Start at one grain to
the gallon and go up to three. With this chemical there is no need of
gradually reducing the strength, but a new solution should be mixed daily,
and twice daily is better, always remembering not to change temperature
of water. Happily Black Fungus is not as prevalent as formerly, owing
probably to the fact that we now have many more American wholesale
breeders, thus doing away with the necessity of purchasing so many fishes
that are in a thoroughly bad condition from hard trips across the Pacific
Ocean, and shorter but equally hard travels across the American Continent.

Itch. The itch is one of the more common complaints in the aqua-
rium. The fishes are observed to quickly rub their sides against the firmer
objects in the aquarium, often against pebbles on the bottom. The affec-
tion is caused by different fish parasites.

Treatment. Although this trouble is caused by different organisms,
they all yield to the progressive salt treatment (page 144). The aquarium
should be cleaned out before fish are returned, and care exercised' to keep
it in a cleaner condition, paying particular attention to seeing that no
uneaten particles of food are left lying about. The introduction of more
snails and a small Weatherfish or two (see page 13) will help to avoid
a recurrence. It is not improbable that mussels consume a large number
of suspended parasites and bacteria of various kinds.

Constipation. Among the highly-bred, short-bodied fishes, constipa-
tion, as well as other mechanical disorders, is naturally common. The
much shortened bodies throw the internal organs out of position, give rise
to swimming bladder troubles and tie up the muscles which must dis-
charge eggs and also the excrement of the fishes. Lack of proper exercise
in the cramped confines of the aquarium and too highly concentrated foods
are other causes leading to constipation. The excrement should be of a
bfown color and free from bubbles or any slimy appearance. In health
it usually is seen in long sections.

Treatment. An equal mixture of sea salt and Epsom salts, made
to a strength of one ounce of salts to the gallon, will usually prove bene-
ficial. It is better not to feed the fish during the period of treatment —
about two days. The trouble may be due to overfeeding, and in any case
a short fast will probably do good.

150 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A:N'D

Goldfishes readily eat Epsom salts, A pinch dropped in the aqua-
rium once weekly is beneficial to the fishes, and at the same time replaces
some of the mineral content of the water depleted by the plants and fishes
drawing constantly upon it for the chemicals necessary to sustain life.
This practice has a tendency to prevent constipation.

Chopped earthworms will be found a mild laxative. In severe cases
some fanciers place a drop of castor oil well down the throat of the fish
by means of a dropper. The author has never been convinced that the
fish swallows any medication administered in this way, but it does no
harm to try, and may do good.

Tailrot. This disease first affects the end of the tail and other fins ;
the appearance is one of being frayed and split. If allowed to continue
until the base of the tail is afifected, the fish will die. Taken in time the
trouble is easily corrected. It must not be supposed that every case of
split and ragged tails is one of tailrot. This is often a manifestation of a
generally run-down condition, and in addition to the regular treatment
for tailrot, also requires a general building-up under improved environ-
ment.

Treatment. The same treatment as that for white fungus is indi-
cated. Dipping the tail in a 10%' solution of peroxide of hydrogen is bene-
ficial. Should the ends be hopelessly frayed, they may be eaten off by a
50% peroxide solution. On returning to the water the treated parts will
be full of bubbles and will slough off in a few days, leaving a less sharp
line than when cut with a knife.

Consumption. It is doubtful whether this is a real form of tubercu-
losis, but the wasted appearance of the suffering fish is such as to suggest
it. The body becomes thin and so shrunken that the head appears to stand
out from the body. Listlessness and loss of appetite are accompanying
symptoms.

Treatment. This trouble seems to be deeply seated and is difficult
to treat successfully. Unless the fish is a particularly valued one, it had
best be destroyed. Place fish in an ample supply of green water or fresh
water containing ^ ounce of sea salt to the gallon. Feed well on daphnia,
chopped earthworms and soft bits of oyster. Unless living daphnia can
be secured, a cure is scarcely worth attempting. Placing fish in a shallow
muddy pond or tank may be beneficial.

Dropsy, The cause for this distressing complaint is not known, but
it is considered to be due to a disordered liver. It is more apt to attack
fancy fishes, and does so without apparent reference to the general health
of the individual or the conditions under which it is kept. The manifesta-

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 151

tions are a swelling of the body and the scales standing out at an angle,
producing a ruffled appearance.

Treatment. No cure is known for dropsy in fishes. They have been
known to improve in an outdoor pool in summer, but on the approach of
cool weather the symptoms returned with increased severity, death follow-
ing as usual. There is a current belief that a few drops of digitalis in the
water sometimes effects a cure. The author has never been able to verify
a single such case. If the fish is valuable, its life may be prolonged by
"tapping" it. This is done by inserting a fine needle beneath the skin,
holding needle nearly flat to the body so that it again emerges in about a
quarter inch. After repeating this at a number of points, enough liquid
can be drawn off to relieve the fish, w^hose health and spirits do not seem
to be particularly affected until shortly before death. The operation can
be repeated when necessary.

Swimming Bladder Trouble. As before stated, highly bred, short
bodied fishes are the more susceptible to this not uncommon disorder.
Sometimes the victims are unable to rise from the bottom except by a
violent effort, or again they may lie at the top of water at an angle, or even
upside down. Scaleless varieties are the more susceptible, particularly the
light colors. Reduced temperatures, even when brought about slowly, are
responsible for most cases.

Treatment. No cure for swimming bladder trouble is known, but it
is sometimes relieved by placing in very shallow^, slightly salt warm water.
If the fish is benefited it will always have to be kept in temperate water,
preferably shallow.

It should be borne in mind that not all cases of loss of equilibrium
are due to bladder trouble, but may be caused by accumulated gases result-
ing from indigestion. Treatment for constipation will relieve these cases,
but such fishes will have to always be watched carefully thereafter.

Gill Congestion. There are two forms of gill congestion. The most
important, generally known as "gill fever," is that attacking fry from two
to five w-eeks old, and is easily responsible for more losses among gold-
fishes than all other causes combined. The gills become inflamed and
swollen, presenting a distended appearance. Owing to the minuteness of
the fish at this period a further observation is difficult except wath a mag-
nifying glass, w^hich shows white threads like bristles sticking from the
gill plates and openings. The disease is highly contagious, so that if one
affected fish is found in a thousand, it is very difficult to save any of them,
even though the sick fish be removed at once.

The other form affects mainly young fishes about 2 inches long. The
gills swell rapidly, the infection spreading to the throat and producing a

152 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AXD

gray or whitish appearance. Without treatment, death is sure to come
quickly. This was formerly a common disease among fancy fishes, but
for some unknown reason has largely subsided, we hope permanently.

Treatment in Fry. Innumerable experiments have been tried to
cure this devastating disease, but without consistent results. So fatal is
it considered by many expert fanciers that when they find a few affected
fishes they. destroy them, together with perhaps thousands of their fellows
in the same tank without attempting a cure, throwing out bad and appar-
ently good alike. The tank is then disinfected with strong salt water or
more powerful germicides. The great trouble is that any chemical which
will kill the vegetal parasites is also very apt to kill the delicate fry. How-
ever, it is almost certain a cure can be found, and it is a great pity to
neglect an opportunity for experimenting. Cases have been cured, but
exact data is lacking. Nevertheless we have two experimental points to
start from. The first and more likely is with permanganate of potash. A
well-known and thoroughly reliable breeder claims to have cured over
one thousand fry by making the water a "pale purple" with this chemical,
leaving the fish in it. To gauge a permanganate solution by color is most
difficult. If one looks through 12 inches of water, the color will be 12
times as deep as through 1 inch. We would suggest trying Yz grain by
weight to the gallon. This just flavors the water. (Tasting without swal-
lowing will do no harm.) If fishes not yet afifected are removed from
their diseased companions and placed in such a solution for half a day, it
is reasonably sure that many if not all could be saved, taking care, of
course, not to return to an infected tank. Here it might be repeated to
advantage that small fry should be lifted with a spoon and transferred
carefully, avoiding pouring or any violent movements.

The other basis for experiment is with sulphate of copper in ex-
tremely diluted form — about 1 to 10,0CX) or weaker. Copper is fatal to all
forms of life and therefore the treatment should only be temporary. We
would suggest finding a strength that would kill the fry in an hour, then
use that strength for 15-minute treatments for remaining fishes. Reports
of cures by copper are current, but details are entirely lacking.

Treatment Larger Fishes. This form of gill congestion has also
been considered necessarily fatal, but such is not the case. The fish should
be placed in strong salt water (3^ ounces to the gallon) until it rolls
over from exhaustion. It is then transferred to a tank of gently running
water which overflows. It appears as though the salt loosens the disease-
germs and the running water carries them off while they are weakened.
If this is a correct theory the cure could no doubt be hastened by pouring
fresh water in the under side of the gills after the salt treatment, thus
also helping to revive the fish. Treatment is repeated daily until improve-
ment is noticed.

Eye Inflammation. The protruding eyes of telescope fishes are quite
subject to injury, especially against the sides of cans in travel. Painstaking

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 153

treatment can go far to relieve this condition and ward off permanent
blindness.

Treatment. Make a saturated solution of boracic acid in tepid
water. This is gently applied daily to the affected parts by a bit of ab-
sorbent cotton. The fish should be placed, if possible, in a large tank free
from obstructions, that the injured eyes may not be further irritated.

Ichthyopthirius. This parasitic disease causes small whitish dots
all over the fish. It is more apt to affect tropical fishes and has killed
many fine specimens. Until recently it has been considered incurable,
but two cures are now positively known. The fish should be placed in a
plain glass jar and have the water changed (keeping temperature even)
every eight hours, disinfecting jar each time. This takes a few days.
It is claimed that plain water is as good as salt for this treatment, but the
writer has had better success with brackish water, gradually increasing
the strength and then as gradually reducing.

The second method of treatment is only suited to goldfishes. This
consists of treatment in water in which two grains to the gallon of per-
manganate of potash have been dissolved. In a few days the old mucous
coating of the fish peels off and leaves a new, healthy surface.

Animal Parasites. There are only three of these of sufficient impor-
tance to keepers of aquarium fishes to require mention. Food fishes and all
wild species are more or less subject to numerous parasites, many of them
serious or fatal. No doubt aquarium conditions are not favorable to their
propagation ; otherwise we would have more trouble in this direction on
account of the large numbers of wild fishes being imported for aquarium
purposes from all temperate and tropical parts of the earth.

Leeches. There is a small white leech about J4 i^^ch long occasionally
introduced with living food (daphnia), more particularly in the spring.
This attacks the bodies and gills, and if the fish is only a few weeks old the
results are .fatal. In an aquarium it is easily possible to see them on the
glass and the breeder should be on the lookout for them. If any are dis-
covered the fishes should be carefully removed to an aquarium where they
can be kept under observ^ation. The affected aquarium should be disin-
fected and the plant destroyed. These and larger leeches can be removed
from the gills of larger fishes by the injection of strong salt water, or by
the progressive salt water treatment previously described (page 144).

Fish Lice. While not very common, and seldom fatal, this crustacean
parasite is very annoying. It is about ^ inch in diameter, very flat, of a
nearly rounded outline and is quite translucent, but distinctly showing
handsome iridescent colors under a good magnifying glass. They are
free swimmers and are able to hold most tenaciously to their hosts. So
tight is their hold that even after death by poisoning they still adhere
where fastened. Owing to their translucent quality they are difficult to
see. The fishes will scratch themselves much the same as in cases of the

154 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

"Itch," but one can notice small irritated spots, particularly on the tail
and fins. The body, however, is not free from attack. The only treatment
is to take the fish out of the water and scrape off the pests, for no chemical
has been discovered that will cause them to let go, and no doubt if it would
it would also kill the fish.

Fig. 98. Fish Louse (Enlarged four diameters)

Flukes. The detection of flukes is not easy without the aid of a
miscroscope, the cause being a small parasite worm (Gyrodactylus ele-
gans), chiefly infesting the gills. The fish breathes unnaturally fast, fre-
quently coming to the surface of the water for air. The fins twitch and
occasionally the fish will dash wildly and aimlessly about the tank, coming
to a rest after exhaustion. Before death the body becomes thin and
emaciated.

If the fish is not too far gone it will stand the formaldehyde treatment,
which will usually effect a cure. Place the fish in a solution of 5 drops of
formaldehyde to the quart of water. Add one drop per minute (per
quart) until there are ten drops to each quart. Allow the fish to remain
in this for ten minutes unless it shows signs of exhaustion sooner. Return
to a thoroughly disinfected tank and repeat the operation next day. Two
or three treatments will usually be sufficient. As a rule, all the fishes in a
tank are affected, so if this parasite is positively identified, it will be well
to treat every fish that has been exposed.

We can see no reason why the formaldehyde treatment should not be
applied to any of the parasitic ailments. If carefully used it will at least
cause no trouble.

Diseases of Tropical Fishes. Tropical fishes cannot stand the differ-
ent chemicals and treatments recommended for goldfishes. The principal
cause for their lack of condition is too low a temperature. If placed in a
uniform warmer temperature, with one ounce of sea salt to each gallon
of water, and fed up on daphnia or white worms (described on page 136)
they will usually improve rapidly.

The most common disease among them is Ichthyopthirius, caused by
an infusorian parasite burrowing into the skin, producing numberless
white raised spots. This requires special and prompt treatment, carried
out to the letter as described on page 153. The treatment is worthless
unless the changes of water are made on time. Aside from chill this
epidemic kills more tropical fishes than any other cause. It has long been
considered incurable, but recent careful study by European scientists of
the life history of the parasite has evolved the very simple treatment de-
scribed, and there is no reason for further serious losses in this direction.
This has been proven by the author and other American experimenters.

Chapter Fourteen

Enemies of Aquarium Fishes

156 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

INSECT ENEMIES OF FISHES

Among the troubles that beset the fish culturists, not the least are
caused by insects and their larvae. This applies both to the propagators
of food fishes and those interested in fancy aquarium pets. We use the
term "insect" here in its popular sense and not according to exact scien-
tific definition.

Some of these enemies are much more readily detected than others,
but most of them may enter the rearing tanks when so small that detection
is practically impossible. Wire screen or netting will keep out those that
fly, or a large enemy in the water can be separated from daphnia or other
living food by passing the "catch" through a fine wire gauze under water,
but despite these precautions it is essential in the summer season to be
ever on the lookout for any of the pests which may have gotten by our
keenest observation. Fortunately for the aquarist there are not many
kinds of insect enemies with which he is actively concerned. There are
only four, three of these being larvae. While the others are none the less
savage or fatal they are not so often met with, or else are so easily
detected that they are not such serious factors with which to reckon.
With the aid of illustrations made from specimens, mostly living, we will
proceed to give descriptions of the four arch-enemies in the order of their
destructiveness, and follow on with the others, adhering to the same plan
as far as possible.

Water Tiger. This is the larva of the Predaceous Diving Beetle
(Dyttscus), itself also a very powerful but easily detected enemy. The
Water Tiger is easily the most rapacious, savage and insatiable enemy of

Fig. 99. Water Tiger (Life she)

young fishes. It does not wait for its prey to pass nearby, but adopts
business-like methods of going after its unwar}- victims. The flat head
is furnished with a strong pair of hollow mandibles, through which it
sucks enough blood to kill its victim and then wantonly goes after another.
In this way a single individual may kill an entire hatching of fish over
night. This larva can usually be recognized by its spindle-shaped body.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

157

flat, strong head, pale translucent brown color and a steady progress
through the water, coming to the surface frequently to breath a moment
through the rear end. Although growing to a length of lYz inches, at
which time it attacks larger fishes and any small aquatic animals, it is
the smaller sizes with which we are principally concerned. From a length
of 5-4 to 1 inch they are not so easily seen but are capable of doing great
mischief.

Spearmouth. While not quite so common as the Water Tiger its
habits are similar and it grows to an even larger size, reaching 3 inches.

Fig. 100. Spearmouth {Life sice)

The body is thicker and the mandibles are shorter. From the aquarist's
standpoint both these larvae could be classed as one. The Spearmouth is
the larva of the large Water Scavenger Beetle (Hydrophilus).

Dragon-Fly Larvae. Almost everyone who raises fish outdoors is
familiar with these unpleasant individuals. There are two reasons why
they are difficult to altogether avoid. When newly hatched they are very
small and will go through the same strainer as daphnia ; furthermore the

Figs. 101 .and 102. Xvmph of Dr.agon Fly and Larva Catching Young Fish
(Life sise)

mother Dra£;:on Fly (Odonata) is an excellent flier and may deposit her
eggs in any body of water that provides proper facilities for her needs.
These larvae live more by their cunning than by any agility as swimmers.
Waiting on a dirty pond-bottom or attached to sticks, aquatic grass or
other object they mark time until a victim comes within close reach.
Then they quickly pounce forward, extending a vicious, pincer-like
organ called the "mask," rarely missing the object of attack. The method
of propulsion through the water is peculiar, being brought about by a
series of expulsions of water from the hinder end. This enables them to

158 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A^D

make a very sudden leap towards a victim. The "mask" shown in Figure
102 when not in use is folded before and under the head. Dragon Fly
larvae are strictly carnivorous at all periods and will attack any pond
creature reasonably near its own size. If given enough time a single
individual will destroy an entire hatching of fishes, growing by what it
feeds upon so as to be able to devour the remaining fishes which are also
becoming larger.

Water Boatmen and Back Swimmers (Corixidcu and Notonectidce)
are found everywhere in still or slow-moving water. They are especially
plentiful in ponds containing vegetal decomposition and filth, not because

Fig. 103. Water Boatman (Slightly enlarged)

they like these, but because such conditions are favorable to the growth
of other creatures making good food for themselves. In daphnia pools
from midsummer until the end of the season Water Boatmen are fre-
quently found. Care should be exercised in picking them out of a net,
as their bite is very severe, the sensation being described as akin to the
sting of a hornet. Young fishes fall easy prey to these predatory insects.
They are usually easy to see on account of their jerky, jumping move-
ments, which are produced by use of their oar-like swimming legs. They
are obliged to occasionally come to the surface of the water to take air,
which gives an opportunity of seeing them. Both Water Boatmen and
Back Swimmers fly clumsily at night, and are often attracted to electric
lights. In some Southern climates they occur in enormous numbers.
They are gathered by the natives, dried and sold as fishfood under the
name of "African Flies."

Fig. 104. Predaceous Diving Beetle (Life size)

Predaceous Diving Beetle (Dytisciis). Fortunately this beetle is of
such size that it can scarcely escape notice, especially as it is obliged to
come to the surface for air, which it takes at the end of the abdomen.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

159

It is rapacious in extreme degree and is a good swimmer. A large speci-
men was once placed in an aquarium for observation. It so quickly
attacked a goldfish that the scales fell in a small shower and the fish died
before it could be rescued. The males may be distinguished by the ball-
like development on the forelegs. They are usually of such a dark
brown as to appear black, but are sometimes marked or bordered with
yellow.

Water Scavenger Beetle {Hydro phiUdcc). We mention this beetle
here because of its resemblance to the large predaceous diving beetle. It
swims diflferently, using its legs alternately, while the diving beetle moves
opposite pairs together. The Scavenger Beetle is also different in that

Fig. 105. Water Scavenger Beetle {Life sice)

it breathes at the surface from the mouth. Instead of long antennae they
have palpi looking like club-shaped antennae. This beetle lives chiefly
on decomposing vegetal and animal matter, although taking soft living
plants such as Nitella. It has been claimed to be predaceous but there
is doubt about their attacking fishes. They have been kept in aquaria
with them without doing damage. On general principles, however, it is
best to exclude all beetles, large or small.

Giant Water Bug (Belostomatidcc) also known as the Electric
Light Bug is one of our common bugs both on land and in water. Flying
clumsily but strongly before electric lights, or patiently awaiting a victim
at the bottom of a pond, the bug is one and the same. They are fiercely

Figs.

106 AND 107. Giant Water Bugs (5. serphus aud B. americana) The
Smaller a Male With Eggs on Back (Life size)

160 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AI^D

predaceous and very powerful. The smaller sizes are the more to be
feared, as they are not so easily seen. While this is a vicious enemy, it is
not one that frequently gets into the fish tank except by flight and as only
the adults fly they are easily detected by their size. In large outdoor rear-
ing pools or lakes they are a very practical menace. The colors range
from clear, dark reddish brown to dull olive. With some of the smaller
genera, Serphus and Zaitha it was supposed that females lay the eggs on
their own backs. Some writers have accepted this popular misconcep-
tion without investigation. It has been fully established that the female
fastens her eggs on the back of an unwilling male, who only submits to
the indignity after a struggle.

Water Scorpion (Nepidcc). We have here another of the insects
spending most of its time in aquatic dirt and rubbish awaiting innocent
passers-by who, for their unwariness, will pay with their lives. Water

Fig. 108. Water Scorpion (Life size)

scorpions depend upon their obscurity to get near their prey, which they
quickly seize with their modified forelegs. While this insect is common
enough to the naturalist, it is not one with which the fish-culturist need
be seriously concerned.

Whirligig Beetle (Gyrinidce). This well-known beetle is common
to nearly all slow-flowing streams and pools, keeping up a perpetual
movement on the surface of the water, on which they glide apparently
without effort. On account of its size and shape it is often called the

Figs. 109 and 110. Whirligig Beetle and Larva (Enlarged three diameters)

coffee bug. The breeder of fishes is not harrassed by this insect but
occasionally an aquarist will be tempted to introduce one in a fish-tank.
This is a mistake. They are predaceous and can inflict a severe bite. The
larva, which is not so well known, is also predaceous.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

161

Water Strider (Hydromctridcc). Another of the predaceous aquatic
insects is the Water Strider. Quite as well known as the Whirligig
Beetle, it adopts somewhat the same methods of securing its prey, darting

Fig. 111. Water Strider {Life size)

over the surface of the water, waiting for the stream to bring down some
helpless insect victim that has fallen overboard. They are capable of
catching young fishes which come to the surface.

Mites (HydracJma). These odd-looking little balls of intense red
are sometimes placed in small tropical aquaria with fishes. This is in-

FiG. 112. Water Mite (Enlarged about four diameters)

advisable, as they are parasitic. It is doubtful whether they actually kill
their host. They are common in the still water of lily ponds.

Hydra. Although Hydra is not an insect we include it here as an
important enemy of young fishes. Hydra is a polyp which attaches itself
to plants, stones or the sides of the aquarium. Being thread-like in ap-
pearance it is apt to be overlooked, especially by the inexperienced. It

Fir.. 113. Hydra (Greatly enlarged)

is usually introduced with living food caught from pools. The spores are
so small as to be unrecognizable, and therefore they cannot be avoided.
The animal itself has a cylindrical body with from 5 to 12 tentacles sur-

162 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A^D

rounding a mouth. The shape varies so amazingly that an accurate
description is impossible. The two figures shown in Figure 113 are of the
same individual. When alarmed the tentacles are entirely withdrawn,
making recognition still more difficult.

They rapidly deplete an aquarium of daphnia and newly hatched
fishes. When a school of fry under 5-16 inch long is disappearing with-
out apparent cause, it will be well to take a sharp look for some harmless
looking hydra.

Hydra possess a poison which quickly stupifies their prey, and to fish
large enough to eat the hydra this poison doubtless has an unpleasant
taste. There is no fish known which will eat them. To get rid of this
pest, remove all fish, snails, etc., from the tank and place in it a solution
of permanganate of potassium of a strength of 3 grains to the gallon of
aquarium water. Allow this to stand for two days, change water and
replace fish. This treatment will not kill plants.

H no small living food be placed in the aquarium, hydra will in a
few weeks be starved.

One experimenter has claimed that by raising the water temperature
to 110° Fahrenheit for a few minutes the hydra will all be killed, while
the plants will not be affected.

LARGER ENEMIES OF FISHES

It should not be understood that the foregoing are the only serious
enemies of pet fishes. In the greenhouse, outdoor pool, or even the
library, misfortune is liable to descend in various guises. Chief among
these are the cat, rat, muskrat, snake, heron, kingfisher and small boy.
Fishes are also taken by the large frog, sandpiper, horned owl, crayfish,
and blackbird. The latter specializes on picking out the eyes of telescope
fishes if the water is near enough to the edge of tank for him to reach
them.

Chapter Fifteen

Aquatic Plants for the Aquarium,
Tank and Pond

104

GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AJ^D

AQUARIUM PLANTS

Whether aquaria are kept for scientific study or for the enjoyment
of the beautiful, aquatic plants will always be found a useful — if not in-
dispensable— adjunct. The fact that plants give ofif oxygen under the
influence of light has been mentioned at several other places in this
volume, but the principle is so important that it would be difficult to over-
emphasize it. Aquaria containing good plant growth may be tightly
covered and if placed in a good light they will support a fair number of
fishes, the life-giving oxygen being supplied exclusively by the plants.

That the roots of healthy aquatic plants absorb the products of
decomposition in the bottom of the aquarium is an established fact. When
an aquarium has been established for some time, the sand has become a
little dirty and the plants have spread so that the roots of some are
against the glass, a close observation will show a condition similar to that
pictured in figure 114. The sand near the roots is distinctly whiter than
that beyond their reach.

No arguments need be put forward
to establish the esthetic value of plant life
in the household aquarium or the pool in
summer. Without them no one could
attempt to reproduce the effects of
Nature. So well understood is the value
of aquatic plants that aquarists are con-
stantly on the lookout for anything new
which might enhance the beautiful results
already achieved. Occasionally something
of real merit is found. We are pleased
to be able to list several of these newer
species here, together with all the better-
known favorites. Only those plants
having been proven satisfactory are de-
scribed, but naturally in such a large range it will be found that the same
conditions are not suited to all.

It is a good general rule to select young plants. They transplant
better and sooner adapt themselves to new conditions. If old plants are
used the dying leaves should be removed.

Much discussion has been brought out as to the best methods of
planting, principally as to whether to use soil, sand or pebbles, or whether,
in some cases, planting is necessary at all. Success has been attained in

Fig. 114.

Absorption by Plant
Roots

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

165

Fig. 115. Sagittaria xatans (Reduced one-third)

J66 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AIS^D

many ways. The author believes in the use of coarse sand, either with or
without a mixture of pebbles, this latter being a matter of taste only.
The disadvantage of pebbles is that they are likely to get into a siphon
and clog it. Pebbles without sand collect dirt which cannot be removed.
There are no experienced advocates of fine sand. It packs too hard for
the roots to penetrate. If soil is to be used in pots or otherwise, an in-
verted piece of turf is excellent. It is compact, comparatively clean and is
not likely to turn sour. In all cases soil is covered with sand or gravel to
prevent washing out. As to other points in reference to planting, the use
of fertilizer, etc., the reader is referred to page 14.

SAGITTARIA

This plant in the three described species comprises the most important
igroup of aquarium plants. It has not the commercial importance of
Cabomba, because the latter is convenient to use in small bunches in the
"fish globes" seen everywhere ; but to those who plant in real aquaria,
Sagittaria receives first consideration.

It is a plant with bright green slender leaves of grass-like form, so
that it is popularly referred to by aquarists as "grass." It takes its name
from the arrow-shaped summer-leaves which stand above the water,
Sagittarius being the sign of the archer in the Zodiac. The white flowers
are the shape of miniature cups, with yellow centres, standing above the
water. Although seeds are formed, the principal means of reproduction
is by runners. Small tubers or corms are also formed among the roots,
particularly in crowded situations. These produce plants.

A number of species are distributed throughout the United States,
many of them quite large, frequently with leaves extending well above the
water. These are only useful as bog plants and even for this purpose
they are difficult to transplant successfully. The majority of wild Sagit-
tarias are not suited to the aquarium.

There has been much discussion as to the classification of Sagittaria
into a number of doubtful species. Environment makes such radical
changes in its appearance that there is a tendency to claim new species
when there is in reality no botanical distinction.

Sagittaria natans, known also as Ribbon Arrowhead, is perhaps the
most important of the group to the aquarist. It is of moderate size and is
suited to the average aquarium on that account. Multiplying rapidly,
growing the entire year, supplying a large amount of oxygen and thriving
under varying conditions, it is very valuable. When an aquarium is up-
rooted on account of Sagittaria or Vallisneria becoming too thick, it will
always be found that the sand is not foul-smelling, showing that the roots
purify the soil.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

167

Fig. 116. Giant Sagittaria (Reduced one-half)

168

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

Fig. 117. Sagittaria subulata [Piisilla] (h'^atural sice)
Fig. 118. Wild Ludwigia (L. glandiilosa)

TROriCAL AQUAIUL'M FISHES

169

Fig. 119. V.\i.msxeri.\ (Reduced one-half or ntore)

170 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

Sagittaria gigantca is believed to be a cultivated variety of S. sagit-
taefolia. Its leaves are broad and stocky, having a decidedly substantial
quality and is one of the easiest plants to succeed v^^ith. A healthy speci-
men is quite light in weight and on this account must be well planted with
roots extending in different directions. Once established it holds well and
will stand more rough usage from contact with fish-nets, etc., than any
other aquatic. Height, 10 to 20 inches. It is better suited in appearance
to a large aquarium than a small one, but a single Giant Sagittaria in the
centre of a smaller tank, surrounded by some of its lesser cousins makes
a good effect. So popular has this plant deservedly become that dealers
have difficulty in supplying it, and they are always ready to buy up any
surplus stock.

Sagittaria suhulata has recently come into popularity on account of its
small size. Fanciers of tropical fishes, now becoming so numerous, gener-
ally use several small aquaria, and in order to produce a symmetrical
picture it is necessary to introduce plants of suitable proportion. The
leaves are of a rather dark shade of green, narrow and thick through,
presenting a strong, wiry appearance. Sagittaria suhulata grows from 3
to 7 inches, the stronger the light, the shorter the leaves. It multiplies
rapidly from runners and soon carpets the bottom of the aquarium, mak-
ing either a good spawning bed or a miniature thicket in which young
fishes may hide from cannibalistic parents. Can be had from some dealers
and is collected in the coastwise States from New York to Alabama. It
is incorrectly known as 5. pusilla.

VALLISNERIA

Vallisneria (Vallisneria spiralis) is another of the grass-like plants,
having strap-shaped leaves of the same breadth their entire length. It is
known as Channel Grass, Eel Grass and Tape Grass. Appearing some-
what like Sagittaria, it has a distinct individuality of its own. The
leaves are of a lighter green and have a more translucent quality than
Sagittaria. Also the plant tends more to rise vertically in undulating lines,
which produces a very pleasant decorative effect, being of a less spreading
contour than Vallisneria. The leaves may also be identified by the mar-
gins being of a slightly different shade of green. By reflected light the
margins appear the darker, but if held up to the light, the centre is the
darker when viewed by transmitted light. Vallisneria is probably with-
out a superior as an oxygenator. For use in large aquaria, particularly
where artistic effects are striven for, it is without an equal. The
aquarium shown in colors as our frontispiece is featured principally by
this plant, although printing ink falls far short of giving an adequate idea
of the radiant, light silky green color of the leaves themselves.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

171

Fig. 120. Giant Vallisneria {Reduced tivo-thirds)

172 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AJ^D

For some years American aquarists depended upon plants gathered
locally from rivers, creeks, mill races, etc. Owing to the long-established
habit of dying down to the tuft in winter, the plant had a strong tendency
to keep to the schedule, even when kept in a warm aquarium over winter.
In order to overcome this difficulty a search was made for a stock grow-
ing in a climate without severe winters. This plan was completely suc-
cessful. In 1910 we were fortunate enough to secure a single small plant
from Italy which, by careful propagation and distribution among leading
aquarists, has now multiplied itself into the many thousands. There is
every reason why it should establish itself in further favor among those
having large or fairly deep aquaria. It grows and multiplies constantly
and the runners lie close to the bottom, not requiring to be pushed down
like young Sagittaria plants. Contrary to the advice of some writers, we
advise against deep planting. It is important that the crown be not
covered, but just at the surface. The plant is not well suited to small
aquaria, as it grows from 18 to 36 inches, according to conditions. If
closely confined it is likely to get into a tangled mass whenever a fish has
to be caught. Allowed to rise to the surface and then extend horizontally
on it for some distance it produces a luxuriant picture. Rising from either
end of the aquarium and trained over the surface towards the centre,
Yallisneria makes the best of frames to show off the more brilliant beauties
of the fishes. The sexes are separate in Vallisneria, fertilization taking
place in a peculiar manner. The female flower, small, cup-shaped and
white, floats at the end of a long spiral scape on the surface of the water.
The male flower on another plant comes only a short distance from the
crown. It is a case containing pollen balls. When the case splits the
pollen floats to the top, where, by the action of wind, insects or other
chance, fertilization is accomplished. Few of these plants in the aquarium
start from seed.

For one or two large plants to dominate the centre of the aquarium,
nothing is better than Giant Vallisneria, now brought from the Southern
States by some of our leading dealers. Its leaves are as wide as those of
Giant Sagittaria, but much longer, varying from two to four feet, accord-
ing to conditions. This variety is also a constant grower. Stocks of
VaUisneria or Sagittaria suited to the aquarium do not do well outdoors
in direct sun, the old leaves dying and the new ones only developing a
few inches in length.

ANACHARIS

Known to American aquarists as Anacharis and in Europe as Elodea
it is also popularly called Ditchmoss, Water Pest, Water Thyme, and Bab-
ington's Curse. Some of the rather uncomplimentary titles are due to a

TKOPICAL AQUARir.M FISHKS

173

Fig. 121. Wild Anach.\ris (Life sise)

174 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A^^TD

characteristic which, at least in the aquarium, should be considered a
favorable point — that is — rapid growth. It may generally be taken for
granted that if an aquatic plant is thriving, it is doing good work for the
aquarium. In form it is moss-like, the leaves growing on a fragile stem,
the entire plant being completely submerged at all periods. Several spe-
cies are distributed throughout the United States and Southern Canada.
A cultivated variety, probably derived from A. canadensis, is considerably
larger than the common local specimens to be found. The closeness of the
leaves together depends upon the strength of light in which the plant is
kept, the difference being so pronounced that sections of the same plant
divided and kept in strong and weak light conditions will soon appear so
different as to be scarcely recognizable as the same stock. The plant
grows several feet in length, sending off occasional shoots and a few
roots at random that reach down into the soil. In the aquarium it is best
to only retain from 6 to 15 inches of the newer growth, cutting away the
old ends, re-bunching and re-planting. Planting is a matter of little
concern to Anacharis. In a well-lighted aquarium, where it will not be
nibbled at by large fishes, it will prosper whether planted or not, particu-
larly if not kept too warm, Anacharis is an excellent oxygenator and is
a good plant for the beginner or for those who want to add variety to
their aquarium vegetation. Allowed to grow into a mass it forms perfect
hiding places for young fishes, as it does not grow so close but that they
may move about in it. To be had of dealers generally.

CABOMBA

Commercially there is no doubt Cabomba is the leading aquatic plant.
Its finely-cut, fan-like, bright green leaves make a very good first impres-
sion, although it does not long look so well in the aquarium. It is brittle
and the fishes if active soon pick it to shreds. Even though this does not
occur, it becomes long and spindly. Enormous quantities are gathered
from ponds, some of them purposely planted, from Maryland to North
Carolina.

The plant under natural conditions is a good producer of oxygen,
but in the aquarium its activity in this respect is doubtful. Although its
use is recommended by many writers, the author's experience and obser-
vation lead him to take exception to their views.

Cabomba caroliniana is the species usually sold in bunches in pet
shops. It is well known as Washington Grass, Fanwort, and Watershield.
In habit it is purely aquatic and propagates mainly by branching. The
Stems under natural conditions attain a length of several feet.

Cabomba roseafolia is a species whose principal distinguishing char-
acteristic consists of a distinct reddish hue on the stems and lower sides
of the leaves. It too is a handsome plant when first introduced.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

175

Fig. 122. Cultivated An.^charis (Life size)
Fig. 123. Cabomba (Life she)

176 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AJ^D

MYRIOPHYLLUM

Here we have another plant which at first looks well in the aquarium
but which deteriorates rapidly. It has, however, a strong redeeming
feature, the very finely divided hair-like leaves being ideal for receiving
the spawn of goldfishes. For this purpose it has grown more and more
into favor. It is used either in the bunches as they are sold, or made into
a spawning-ring as shown on page 51. As a spawn-receiving plant it
has one advantage over Water Hyacinth in that the individual pieces may
be spread out so as to give all the eggs a similiar amount of sun, whereas
with Hyacinth one side is usually much more protected than the other,
making the eggs hatch at different times. Before using Myriophyllum
to spawn on it should be well washed ofif by moving it about in clear
water, being careful to remove all insects, snails and snail eggs. When
spawning is finished the plant had as well be thrown away.

There are a number of generally distributed species throughout
America, all having the same general characteristics, but some are better
than others as "spawning grass" on account of closer and longer leaves.
They are all popularly known as Water Milfoil.

Myriophyllum verticillatum. This is the best /American species and
is found in both shallow and deep ponds throughout the United States
and Lower Canada. Its leaves are dense and crowded, making an excel-
lent spawning plant. M. nietschei is a cultivated variety of the same, the
leafy filaments developing from 1^ to 3 inches in length.

Myriophyllum proserpinocoidcs or Parrot's Feather is a partially sub-
merged form which should be allowed to creep on the surface of the
water, where its blue-green, feathery leaves display a charm exclusively
their own. Does well in the greenhouse or established on the edges of
partially shaded lakes, where it becomes very robust and looks strikingly
beautiful. The roots are not winter-killed. On account of growing so
rapidly it requires too much attention in a small aquarium.

CERATOPHYLLUM

Hornwort, as it is generally known, is mentioned here on account of
its resemblance to Myriophyllum, for which it is sometimes gathered. It
is an extremely poor aquarium plant, being very brittle and liable to rapid
decomposition. Besides its characteristic of being fragile it may also be
recognized by having practically no roots, absorption taking place in
the leaves.

It is found principally in ponds and slow moving streams, where it
washes about freely with the current.

TROPICAL AQUAKIUM FISHES

177

UTRICULARIA

Many species of Uladderwort are distributed throughout the Temper-
ate Zone. They have somewhat the appearance of the finely-divided
leaves of Myriophyllum, but may be identified by the small bladders
(lotted throughout. Our figure 125 of U. vulgaris gives a good idea of
the general type. They thrive in the aquarium if given plenty of strong
light. The Bladderworts are carnivorous plants, trapping the micro-
scopic lower forms of animal life in their bladders, where they are di-
gested. It has been claimed that they can trap extremely small fishes,

Fig. 124. Myriophyllum nietschei (Slicjhtly reduced)
Fig. 125. I iKK.MER Bl.midkrwokt {Reduced oue-third)

such as the young of Dwarf Gourami, but we do not know that this has
ever been definitely proven. There can be no doubt, however, that the
plant docs take living food which would be useful to young fishes, and to
that extent is objectionable in the aquarium.

178

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

HAIR GRASS

Eriocaulon septangiilare, a dainty hair-like aquatic of recent intro-
duction, fills small tropical aquaria in an agreeable manner. It is another
of those plants forming a useful adjunct to the breeding of tropical fishes.
It multiplies rapidly from short runners and is a good oxygenator. Of

Fig. 126. Hair Grass (Life sise)

a pleasing shade of light green it makes a contrasting group among other
plants in a large aquarium, but it shows to best advantage in a small
aquarium by itself. It grows from 3 to 8 inches and is native to ponds in
the Middle Atlantic and Southern States.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FLSHPJS

179

Fi(.. 127. PoTAMOGETON DEXSUs {Rcduccd onc-halj
Fig. 128. Nitell.\ gracilis {Reduced one-third)

POTAMOGETON

In strong contrast to the foregoing dainty plants is Potamogcton
dcnsiis, or pondweed. As will be seen from figure 127, these leaves are
broad and robust. In color they are a bright green. This variety is said
to be of European origin but is now common in ponds in the United
States. If established in soil in flat pots it flourishes in a well-lighted
aquarium. Pieces collected from the wild may be introduced by fasten-
ing into the sand. They present a very attractive appearance and will last
for quite a time, but should only be regarded as temporary and when the
leaves begin to turn yellow should be removed. There are many widely
distributed species of Potamogeton, all looking very attractive in a state
of Nature, especially P. crisp us with curly leaves. They look very tempt-
ing, but none seem to survive in the aquarium except P. detisus and that
only when established just to its liking.

180 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

NITELLA

Of the slender-leaved aquatics. Nitella gracilis is one of the best.
Our figure 128 gives a good idea of its dainty form. It is not freely dis-
tributed but is found occasionally in ponds and streams in the Eastern
States, usually attached to bits of stick or stone. From this it receives its
popular name, Stonewort. In removing the plant to the aquarium, it is
best to take also the base upon which it roots. If placed in a situation to
its liking Nitella prospers wonderfully in the aquarium and is a fine oxy-
genator. Under the microscope the leaves show the circulation of proto-
plasm better than any other plant. Requires plenty of light.

LUDWIGIA

Popularly known as Swamp Loosestrife, this plant in about 25 spe-
cies is widely and thickly distributed in North America, mostly growing
at the edges of streams like Watercress. Although in reality more of a
bog-plant than a pure aquatic, it does well in the aquarium, particularly
if kept in the earth of the pot in which it was propagated from a cutting.
Propagation is very easy in the greenhouse. About 5 short cuttings are
placed in a 2-inch pot, having a top-layer of sand. This is not done under
water but the pots need to be kept saturated and the air very moist. They
soon root and when they have developed about an inch of new growth
should be placed in the aquarium.

Ludwigia is one of the more important aquarium plants on account
of its decorative value and pronounced individuality. When kept in a
strong light the under sides of the leaves become a beautiful red color.
Wild stock is not altogether satisfactory. It throws out too many roots to
make a pleasing appearance, and in the aquarium becomes attenuated in
character. A cultivated variety said to have come from South America
is better in every respect and is easily obtained, for it is the kind propa-
gated by dealers in aquatics. As it is sold in the original pots before being
plunged into water it can safely be sent long distances. Growing to a
length of several feet if untrimmed it is suited to large aquaria but may
also be kept small by pinching back. Unlike Anacharis it should not be
trimmed at the root end unless the stock has become quite old and no
longer prospers. Does best in strong light and may also be propagated in
the aquarium from cuttings. A little Ludwigia can be seen in our
frontispiece.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

181

Fir.. 129. Cultivated Lud\vigi.\ (Life sice)

182

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AIS^D

SPATTERDOCK

Among the newer introductions into the aquarium are the submerged
Spatterdocks. The large arrow- or spade-shaped leaves make a very
characteristic appearance. Seedling plants gathered from lakes and ponds
in the fall will do well in the aquarium over winter. If summer leaves
appear and become too large for the aquarium the plant had best be re-
moved. The Southern Spatterdock, Nuphar sagittcvfolia, does not

Fig. 130. Southern Spatterdock {Reduced one-half)

develop aerial leaves, but they gradually lengthen as the warm season pro-
gresses. Figure 130 shows the plant in March. Later the stems and
leaves will be longer. In October a new growth starts close to the thick,
running root or rhizome. The leaves of this Spatterdock are of the bright-
est green hue and do not darken in strong light. Where the rhizomes
have been broken off they have a tendency to rot, eventually killing the
plant. This seems to be overcome by planting in sweet soil.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

183

Fig. 131. Japanese Spatterdock (Reduced tzuo-thirds)

The Japanese Spatterdock, Alisina spec, has leaves of a considerably
darker sage green, broader at the base. It is a continuous grower, has no
aerial leaves and multiplies readily at the rhizome. Altogether a satisfac-
tory plant for the large aquarium.

FONTINALIS

Known as \Mllowmoss these plants are found attached to stones
or other substantial objects. They are of a pleasing dark-green color and
have the advantage of doing well in a subdued light, although a moderate
amount of direct sun does them no harm.

Fontinalis antipyretica grows in long branching form, with leaves
closely adhering to the stem. It occurs in cold-water streams and rivers,
being very plentiful in some localities but is not freely distributed.

Fontinalis gracilis is very much smaller and threadlike, the leaves
being so small as to appear like a roughness on the stem. In the aquarium
this plant seems to have a faculty of soon becoming covered with sedi-
ment. Indeed some aquarists find it useful to clear the water. As soon
as the plant becomes well covered it is taken out. rinsed off and returned.
As the stems are strong they stand this treatment successfully. A stone
containing a thick bunch of Fontinalis gracilis is an attractive feature in
the aquarium. It is a slow grower. The new leaves are bright green but
soon turn to a dark sage color.

184

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

Fig. 132. Fontinalis antipvretica (Life si::e)
Fig. 133. Fontinalis gracilis (Life size)

TKOPICAL AQUAinrM EISIIES

185

Fig. 134. Herpestis (Life sicc)
Fig. 135. Spring St.\rwort (Life sice)

ISG GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

HERPESTIS

Her pest is ample.vicaulis bears a general resemblance to Moneywort,
but in essential characteristics is quite different. It is a pure aquatic with
thick leaves and a stout stem. Native to the ponds of Southeastern
United States as far as Florida. It is one of the best of recent additions
to aquarium plants. On account of being a slow grower its introduction
is not likely to be rapid, but once established it does very well, holding its
bright green leaves a long time. When out of the water it has a pleasant
faint odor. Being of Southern origin it will prosper in the temperature of
tropical aquaria where some plants will not do so well, although it thrives
in cool water also. Incorrectly known as Bacopa.

CALLITRICHE

Floating in small, cool streams throughout the United States and
Lower Canada one will find patches of brilliant, light-green small leaves.
Examination will show them to be the floating leaves of a long-stemmed
plant growing in the mud. These are various forms of Callitriche, or
Spring Starwort, sometimes also called Water Fennel. When the plant is
loosened we find it disappointing, for the lower leaves are thinner and
quite different in appearance. The stems are tangled and difficult to
disengage.

Callitriche z'erna is the commonest form, as well as the most easily
established in the aquarium, but it shows to best advantage in shallow
tanks where a top view can be had of the surface leaves. It should, how-
ever, only be kept with tropical fishes unless it is intentionally given to
goldfishes to eat, as they are fond of it. The stems and roots when taken
are usually swarming with various aquatic insects and Crustacea.
Although many of these are good fishfood it is best to thoroughly rinse
this and all other plants before placing in the aquarium.

HIPPURIS

Formerly used as an aquarium plant. Mare's Tail has been over-
looked of recent years, possibly on account of its tendency to stand above
the water. Used in a suitable way this feature could be utilized to
advantage. It transplants well and will thrive under varying conditions,
but does best in ample light. Occurs in swamps from Labrador to
Maine and also the Pacific Coast.

MONEYWORT

Lysmachia nummularia or Moneywort is also known as Wandering
Jew, Creeping Jenny and Herb-twopence, the latter name and Moneywort
no doubt being derived from the rounded shape of the leaves. It is com-

TKOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

187

Fig. 136. M.\re's Tail {Life sisc)
Fig. 137. Moneywort {Life sise)

188

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

mon in all the Eastern States, growing in damp places, usually near or
bordering streams. Considering that it is scarcely even a bog plant it
does remarkably well in the aquarium, where it grows straight up to the
surface of the water, regardless of where the light comes from. It is a
fair oxygenator, but if kept submerged the leaves gradually dwindle
in size, so that it is best to gather a new stock once a year, August or
September being the best season to secure vigorous plants.

QUILLWORT

Isoetes is a widely distributed genus of a number of species. It is
found in the mud and sand at the edges of streams and ponds. In size it

Fig. 138. Quillwort (Reduced one-half)

varies from a few inches to several feet. The small submerged species
are worth trying in the aquarium, as they are tenacious of life. The
leaves rise from the centre of a circle or rosette, producing a very pretty
effect. Quillwort should be placed in a good light. It is eaten by some
snails and fishes.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

189

Fig. 139. Hetf.ranthf.ra (Life size)

190

GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A:N^D

HETERANTHERA

Hcteranthcra zosteracfolia is a very light green plant, slightly re-
sembling Anacharis, but with longer, more widely separated leaves. It is
a rapid grower, soon reaching the top, where it lays limp on the surface
of the water. A good oxygenator, but has never become very popular on
account of its rambling, untidy habits. Can occasionally be had of dealers.

LACE PLANT

This extraordinary plant, Onviranda fenestralis, is a native of Mada-
gascar. Its dark-green skeleton leaves appear very fragile, but in reality
they are the toughest-leaved aquarium plant we know of. They are slow

Fig. 140. Madagascar Lace Plant
{Life sice, half-grown)

of growth and prefer a subdued light. Propagation is by division at the
root. This sometimes takes place in the aquarium, but they do best in
wooden tanks. At best they are slow growers which in a way is an ad-
vantage, for they eventually become rather large. The Lace- or Lattice-
leaf plant is used purely for ornamental purposes, its qualities as an oxy-
genator being negligible.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

101

Fig. 144. Crvstalwort {Life size)

WATER POPPY

Limnocliaris liiimboldti, owing to its generally satisfactory qualities,
has become one of the most popular plants in the indoor and outdoor
tank, as well as the large aquarium. It grows very rapidly and continu-
ously sends out new plants which have groups of buds. Usually a new
bud blooms every day. The 3-petaled yellow flower with a brown eye or
centre only lasts a few hours but is a most pleasing and artistic feature.
The parent plant should be potted, preferably not very deeply in the
water. The new plants run at the surface, occasionally sending down
strong stems to obtain a fresh rooting.

192

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

Floating Aquatics

DUCKWEED

This commonest of all floating plants is found in several species in
still pools everywhere. From the middle of summer until cold weather
many ponds are completely covered with this green mantle, greatly in-
terfering with the work of collecting daphnia for fish food. Duckweed
itself is a good food for goldfishes large enough to eat it, and has a
laxative effect beneficial to the finer breeds. The form most commonly
found is Lemna minor. Propagation is by ofifshoot extensions.

AZOLLA

Azolla caroliniana is one of the less used of small floating aquatics.
It is not in any way a brilliant plant but has a rather quaint charm. The
leaves are of velvety appearance and range from a dull sage-green to
dark red, according to age and the conditions of light. To be had of
dealers. Native to the Southern States.

CRYSTALWORT

Riccia fluitans grows in masses in small, angular shapes, resembling
crystal formation. It floats just beneath the surface and is valuable in
the propagation of small tropical fishes, some depositing eggs in it, and
the new-born young of the live-bearing varieties using it for hiding
places. Native to the Eastern States and may be had of dealers in aquatics.

Fig. 145. Salvinia (Life size)
Fig. 146. Teianea (Slightly reduced)

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

193

SALVINIA

Of the small floating aquatics Salvinia is one of the best. The heart-
shaped leaves with bristle-like growth on the upper surface seem like
bits of velvet connected by a thread. The roots are naturally long for
the size of the plant but fishes usually eat them down to about half length,
which interferes with a full development of size. In the greenhouse
where they have a moist atmosphere and no interference they develop
with amazing rapidity. The variety illustrated. Salvinia natcns, is native
to Europe and is the form commonly used in aquaria and pools.

Although it is claimed that neither Salvinia nor the common wild
Duckw^eed perform any oxygenating function, the author and others
have many times seen aquaria completely covered with either of these
plants and, with no other plants in the aquarium, the fishes were getting
along perfectly well.

FROGBIT

Hydrocharis morsus-ramc, requiring the same conditions as Trianea
bogotensis, deserves more attention than it is receiving. Of very
pretty appearance when in flower, readily olitained from dealers, there is

Fig. 147. Frogbit (Life size)

194

GOLDFISH VARIETIES A:N^D

no reason why it should not be better known. As will be noted in Figure
147 it propagates from runners, but the seeds also germinate under
favorable conditions. The plant is of European introduction.

TRIANEA

Trianea bogotensis is an attractive, small floating plant with thick,
heart-shaped leaves. It needs a moist warm atmosphere and not too
much direct sun. Under these conditions it thrives and is a valued
feature in the summer pool or greenhouse tank. It is not found locally
in temperate climate but may be had of dealers.

WATER FERN

Not looking particularly fern-like, the Water Fern, Ceratopteris
thalictroides, is the only truly aquatic species of the fern family. It is
of comparatively recent introduction into the aquarium and indoor pool,

Fig. 148. Water Fern {Reduced)

it being more suited to the latter. In a partially shaded position in the
greenhouse it grows into floating masses a foot or more in diameter,
piling up to some height on account of its peculiar means of reproduction,

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

195

the new plants springing directly out of the parent leaves, as is shown in
Figure 148. Ordinarily the plants are about 6 inches in diameter and
are of very pleasing appearance. Native to the Tropics around the world.

WATER LETTUCE

Pistia stratiotcs is a floating plant with fluted, light-green velvety
leaves, forming a rosette. It likes plenty of heat, a moist atmosphere and
protection from the sun. Under favorable conditions it grows to a

Fig. 149. Water Lettuce (Reduced one-quarter)

diameter of about 4 inches or more and is decidedly pretty. The roots
sometimes attain a length of 18 inches, but they are not sufficiently dense
to use for spawning purposes. Multiplies rapidly in a congenial
environment.

WATER CHESTNUT

Probably obtaining its popular name from the serrated edges of the
leaves somewhat resembling those of the Chestnut tree, Trapa uatans
forms one of the pleasing varieties among floating aquatics. It is an
annual doing well in exposed out-door positions. Xew plants are pro-

196

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

Fig. 149a. Water Chestnut

duced each year from large, hard seeds. The big, black, two-horned seeds
sometimes sold in Chinese stores are of a closely related species of Trapa.
Can be had of dealers after Alay 15.

WATER HYACINTH

Although Water Hyacinth, Eichhornia, is considered a pest in its
native habitat on account of clogging- up rivers and lakes, it is none the
less a favorite with the aquarist, especially the breeder of goldfishes. Its
long, finely divided dense roots are admirable for receiving the eggs of
any fishes that spawn on plants. The pale purple flower-spike only blooms
for a single day but is quite beautiful, having the general form of its
namesake, the Hyacinth. Propagation is by runners at the surface of the
water. Figure 150 clearly shows this. Water Hyacinths do best if
their roots can root or drag in soil. Outdoors they do not like to be
blown about nor to strike against the sides of a tank, although apparently
not minding how closely they are crowded together. This plant does
well in a warm greenhouse the year round. Unless supplied with plenty
of light and heat durins: the winter they degenerate very much.

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Fig. 151. Hardy White Water Lily {Tuhcrosa richardsoni)

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 199

WATER LILY CULTURE

All fish pools or large tanks standing in the sun should have water
lilies growing in them. They are of easy culture and not only give pro-
tection to the fish but add greatly to appearances. Small or large varities
may be had, according to the needs of the space. Water lilies are divided
into the tender and hardy varieties. The tenders are more free-blooming
and the day-blooming tenders are the most fragrant, as well as presenting
the greatest range of color. They usually open in the fore part of the
morning and close in mid afternoon. The night bloomers open in the
evening and close about nine in the morning. They are not fragrant nor
as elegant as the day-bloomers, but they are called the business man's
water lily because he can see them in bloom in the evening and in the
morning.

Water lilies need extremely rich soil. A mixture of half clay and
half cow manure suits them very well. An inch top layer of sand will
prevent any of this soil from getting into the water. The crown of the
plant should not be covered and ought to be about 12 to 14 inches below
surface of the water. They nee<i an abundance of sunlight.

Before freezing weather sets in the tender plants should be taken
up. Close to the main root will be found a few tubers about the size
of shellbarks. These are the starts for next season's plants. They are to
be broken off and kept in cool water or moist sand. In April they may
be laid in shallow, warm water until sprouted, then placed in submerged
pots and later permanently planted out in June.

Hardy water lily roots only need be kept moist and from actual
freezing. In a pond they may be left out. In early Spring they form a
number of new crowns. The parent root should be cut up into pieces,
allowing a crown to each piece. Plant only one crown to a pot. Let
all water lily pots be as large as space will permit. Most tenders will
grow and bloom in a 7-inch bulb pan in an ordinary tub, but they are
dwarfed from lack of space. They will do better in a box about a foot
deep by thirty inches square, or in a hole 18 inches wide and 20 inches
deep, as shown in Figure 163. Tropical water lilies have a surprising
degree of intelligence in adapting themselves to the size of the pool they
are in. The ordinary hardy water lilies if given as much space as they
can use will have a surface diameter of about 4 feet. The usual tropicals
vary from 10 to 15 feet, but will do well in pools of 6-foot diameter.

In the maze of offerings and alluring descriptions of water lilies,
the beginner is at a loss to know what to select. We present a list of
the most satisfactory varieties in each class. Most of them sell at mod-
erate prices and can be had of either of the two leading dealers, Dreer's
at Riverton, N. J., or Wm. Tricker, Arlington, N. J.

200 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

Hardy

White : Gladstoniana, Marliacea albida, Richardsoni.

Pink : Marliacea rosea.

Yellow : Marliacea chromatella.

Red: Paul Hariot, Gloriosa, Aurora, Tames Brydon.

Tender Day-Blooming

White : Gracilis.

Pink : Mrs. C. W. Ward.

Blue: Pennsylvania, Wm. Stone, Pulcherrima.

Purple: Zanzibariensis.

Tender Night-Blooming

White: Dentata magnifica.

Pink : O'Marana.

Red: Rubra, Devonensis.

Winter-Blooming (Indoor)

Blue: Mrs. Woodrovv Wilson. Panama Pacific.

Small Hardy s
Pygmaea (white), Pygmaea helvola (yellow), Laydeckeri lilacea
(rosy lilac), Laydeckeri rosea (pink to red).

OTHER POND PLANTS
Lotuses (Nelumbiums)

Album grandiflorum (white), Luteum (yellow), Speciosum (rose),
Pekinensi's (red).

The culture of Nelumbiums requires more root-space than for water
lilies. Planted in a shallow pond where they have plenty of space for the
strong roots to branch out and travel, they prosper amazingly. They are
hardy over winter, and if it is desired to confine them to a certain space
or locality they should be boarded in or otherwise divided from the rest
of the pond. The roots go several feet deep. The Lotus is one of the
most beautiful of all decorative plants. Its magnificent leaves and flowers
swaying majestically in the summer breezes give us an inkling of why
the ancient Egyptians considered the plant sacred.

Among the best of the bog and pond plants are Variegated Sweet
Flag, Cape Pond Weed, Marsh Marigold, Umbrella Plant, Cyperus
Papyrus, Water Arum, Pickerel Weed, Sagittaria japonica, Sagittaria
montevidiensis, and Lizard's Tail.

Water Snowflake is one of the most charming of the small floating
aquatics. White, star-like flowers of 1-inch diameter are freely borne
above the water. Parent plant should be rooted in soil near surface.

152. Xelumbium sieciosum

The Sacred Lotus of the Orient, from 4 to 7 feet in height, is easily
the most magnificent of the aciuatics with leaves and flowers al)t)ve tlie water.

Fig. 153. Prizewinning Calico Comet Golbfish

Fig. 154. Prizewinning Lionhead Goldfish

These two specimens show perhaps the greatest possible divergence of extremes
in the accompHshments of fancy fish breeders. It is almost incredible that they are
both derived from the same root stock.

TEOPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES 203

Enemies of Aquatic Plants. The most serious enemies are musk-
rats. These eat the roots of several hardy aquatics, particularly over the
winter season. They are partial to the roots of the small yellow water
lily, Pygmaea helvola.

Fig. 155. Aqu.\tic Cut-Worm

A leaf-cutting worm {Hydro cam pa), sometimes becomes quite a
nuisance. It cuts a piece from the edge and, laying it on the leaf, attaches
the two together and uses the two pieces as a cocoon. Loose bits of
water lily leaves. Sagittaria, etc., observed floating around will, if pried
apart, often be found to contain this white worm. The accompanying
illustration is of life size.

Chapter Sixteen

Photographing Fishes

206 GOLDFISH VARIETIES ANT)

PHOTOGRAPHING FISHES

Achievements of modern photography have done much to lessen the
difticukies of photographing hving fish, aUhough a picture good in every
respect demands all the patience and care at one's disposal. Exact
photographic records are extremely interesting to the fancier, valuable
to the scientist and form the only certain basis for noting the changes in
the fancy breeds of goldfish.

A high-grade lens that will work at F 6 or better and a shutter that
will give an exposure of 1-25 second should be used. Sufficient length
of bellows is needed so that the fish may be photographed about two-
thirds life size. Sharp negatives can be had in this way and those which
turn out well can be enlarged. Direct photography at life size is not
practicable, as the depth of focus and power of the light are very much
cut down at this close range. The chances of blurring by movement are
greatly increased by attempting to photograph at life size. A photo-
graphic plate size 5 x 7 is quite satisfactory for photographing goldfish.
For the most of the tropicals, 4 x 5 is sufficient. The Graflex camera
is very convenient, allowing one to^ focus up to the instant of exposure.

To properly carry out this work a special photographing aquarium
should be prepared. It should be seven inches deep, seven inches wide
and two and one-half inches through from front to back. The front
should be of 3^-inch plate glass. This is important. A white background
for photographing dark subjects and a black for light ones will be
needed. A piece of cardboard folded twice and stood on end immediately
in back of the aquarium will be found to be satisfactory. The back may
be painted with flat black to serve for the alternate background. If this
is done the two creases should be stripped with tape so the board will not
separate when the fold is reversed. To carry out the background effect
completely, cut a piece of glass the size of the inside bottom of the
aquarium. Paint one side Avhite and the other black, using either as
required. The fish will frequently sink to the bottom, and if the back-
ground is of the proper color throughout, the photograph can be as well
made there as higher in the water.

A very important item is to have a movable glass partition so that
the fish may be forced near the front glass and thus kept in focus. Thin
brass forms to snap on either top end of the aquarium and leaving
notches filed to hold glass partition in position will be found most
convenient.

Fk;. 156. PHOTOCRAI'HINr, AorARIUM

This aquarium was used in inakina; all the photographic repro-
ductions of fishes shown in this vokune. Note glass partition for
keeping subject in focus.

Fig. 157. Prizewinning Celestial Telescope Goldfi.sh

As well as being one of the most extraordinary appear-
ing of goldfishes, the Celestial is also the most dit^cult to
breed and keep alive.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 209

All the camera except lens should be covered with a black cloth
at time of exposure to prevent its own reflection in the aquarium. The
author believes that sunlight furnishes the best illumination, giving better
color values and modelling than flashlight. Exposures should be made
only on very bright days from eleven until two o'clock, and in the period,
if possible, between April 10 and September 1. At other times flash-
powder will be better, using a liberal supply. Care should be taken not
to allow the dust from flashlight to settle in the aquarium, as it contains
metallic salts injurious to fishes. Keep the sun on the subject and directly
behind the camera. The water should be as free as possible of all par-
ticles, as they show in the picture with annoying distinctness. Much
patience is sometimes required to get a fish into a satisfactory "pose," but
when a good picture is obtained, it is well worth all the trouble it costs.

The photographing aquarium shown herewith was constructed by
pouring cement in a form surrounding the four uprights. Just after the
cement is poured, quarter-inch square sticks of wood should be pressed
in where the glass is to stand. These are removed when cement is dry.
Waterproof the base as described on page 216, then fill all four depressions
and posts with aquarium cement and insert glass. Owing to small size
of aquarium it is best to do all cementing before any glass is inserted
for it is impossible to satisfactorily reach inside. Only the front needs
to be of plate glass. This should be inserted first and all surplus cement
neatly cleared away. It will be noted that this style of construction has
no bottom metal frame to interfere with photographing when the subject
happens to be low, which is often the case. One part of cement to two
of sand is a good proportion. White cement makes a pretty effect and
when using a white background, no other inside reflector is needed. This
aquarium was used in making the photographic illustrations of fishes in
this volume.

Unless the base immediately in front of the glass is of a dull black
it will be desirable to cover it with a dull black or red cloth. Black is
better.

Chapter Seventeen

Construction of Aquaria,
Tanks and Ponds

212 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AXD

AQUARIUM CONSTRUCTION

The amateur aquarist with a little talent for things mechanical can
find profit as well as pleasure in making an aquarium according to his
own ideas and requirements. The few necessary tools either are, or ought
to be, a part of every household equipment.

Naturally the first consideration is that of the space to be occupied
by the aquarium. In determining this it is well to be influenced, as far
as conditions will permit, by the needs of the aquarium inmates. As to
proportions, it will be found that most aquarium fishes do best in shallow-
aquaria with plenty of water surface. However, for artistic arrange-
ment and symmetrical plant growth we must have a certain amount of
depth. Twenty inches deep is sufficient even for large aquaria. In the
smaller sizes, plants of suitable height can be secured. For all-round
purposes, bearing in mind both the artistic and the useful, a good general
rule is to make the aquarium in the form of a double cube. That is, the
width and height identical, and the length twice that of either. Unless an
aquarium is to be viewed only from the top, it is not advisable to make
the width over 25 inches, as even a slight cloudiness of the water con-
siderably obscures the fishes when there is so much of it to look through.
Within reason, make the aquarium as large as possible, but nothing over
a 70-gallon size is to be recommended for the household. An accidental
breaking of the glass, even at this size, is too great a catastrophe to con-
template with composure. Since it is very little more trouble to keep a
large-sized aquarium than a small one, and the results are so much better,
at least with goldfishes, we would unhesitatingly say to those weighing
the merits of two sizes, take the larger.

For a large variety of tropical fishes, a number of small aquaria will
be found preferable. These will be treated of hereafter in the present
chapter.

After the considerations of size and proportions, which we have
already touched upon, we will now take up in order the points of con-
struction, laying particular emphasis on the factor of safety.

Bases. The best material for general use in aquarium bases is slate.
It is inexpensive, durable, easily worked, free from cleavage cracks, and
in every way reliable. The requirements for thickness are from ^ inch
for sizes up to 30 gallons, to 1^ inches for 130 gallons. Polished Ten-
nessee marble makes a handsome and durable base. White marble is too
glaring and besides is easily chipped in moving an aquarium about. Also

TROPICAL AQUARIU^r FISHES 213

\vhen brought into contact with aquarium cement it absorbs and spreads
the oil, making a bad appearance. Bases of heavy white pine, strongly
cross-battened, have been used with success, but the wisdom of using a
wooden base is open to serious question, especially as wide, thick pine
boards can scarcely be had any more, even at high prices. The ever-
present danger of warping either from a leak or the weather, or again
from bending due to continuous heavy pressure are considerations weigh-
ing against the wooden base. If an all-wood frame is used, it is desirable
to line the bottom with a sheet of glass, preferably wired, embedding it
in soft aquarium cement at the edges, and at several supporting spots
near the centre. The same plan is to be recommended in aquaria with
solid metal bases, in order to keep iron rust out of the water.

Aquarium bases usually extend from one to one and one-half inches
beyond the frames on all sides. Slate or marble bases ought to be bev-
elled sufficiently on the upper edges and corners to take away the sharp-
ness. The necessar}^ holes through which the frame is to be clamped on
can be drilled with an ordinary metal drill, but it costs very little extra
to have the slate- worker do this when he is finishing the base. Aquaria
up to 10 gallons require 4 bolts, 20 gallons 6, and for the larger sizes
they should be placed about 10 inches apart.

Frame Metals. Angle brass, iron or aluminum form the best metal
aquarium frames. For the amateur worker, brass oflfers the best advan-
tages. It is easily sawed, drilled and soldered, besides making a handsome
appearance when polished and lacquered or nickel-plated. If nickeled it
should be heavily coated. Angle iron is not so attractive in appearance,
but is undoubtedly more rigid. It cannot be soldered. Consequently tho
four corners of the upper and lower frames have to be riveted through
connecting elbow pieces on the inside or special castings on the outside,
and then the whole riveted to the uprights. Aluminum has seldom been
used, but makes an attractive frame. As the soldering of this metal is
of doubtful durability it is safer to rivet the same as wdth iron.

For aquaria up to 25 gallons, ^-inch angle metal is suitable ; up
to 50 gallons, }i inch; up to 75 gallons, 1 inch; up to 125 gallons. Hi
inch. The author prefers seeing as little of the frame as possible and
for ten years has successfully used a 60-gallon aquarium constructed with
only ^-inch angle brass, but he would not care to make this as a general
recommendation. It is mentioned so that if others have the same idea
they will know that it is a mechanical possibility.

Unless constructed of heavy angle iron it is best to carr>' a light rod
across short dimension of the centre of top frame of aquaria over 30
inches in length, to prevent bulging by water pressure.

214

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AXD

Frame Construction. A hack-saw with fine teeth for metal-work-
ing will be needed to cut the proper lengths of angle metal. After care-
fully determining proportions desired, cut the four uprights and then the
material for top and bottom frames. If working in brass the latter should

Fig. 158. Cut, Prep.aratory to Bending Angle Brass

each be left in one piece. By accurately bevelling the two ends and prepar-
ing right-angle cuts at three points as shown in figure 158, the whole can be
bent into a frame that will produce very neat corners and make soldering
easy. The right-angle cuts should be finished with a square file and car-
ried within about 1/32 inch of going through. This leaves the bar very
weak at these points and considerable care is necessary in handling in
order that some accident does not break them apart before it is time to
bend. If one breaks it is not a very serious matter, only the corner will
not have quite such a neat appearance. In practise we find it best to bend
each cut as soon as finished and roughly fasten with solder. When all

Fig. 159. Frame Secured Around Wooden Form. Note Re-inforcement in One

Corner

three bends have been completed, place within it a wooden form as shown
in figure 159. Except for the corners being cut ofif (to allow for solder-
ing) the edges of form should be perfectly rectangular and fit closely.
Now secure quite firmly with stout twine. After all corners are trued
up with the board, apply the permanent solder. Melt solder from any

TROPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES 215

corner that does not stand true without forcing. In the upper-right cor-
ner of our illustration will be noted a right-angle flange reinforcement,
cut from a flat piece of 1/16-inch brass. It is advisable to use these.
They add greatly to the strength and actually make the work of solder-
ing easier. After preparing the surfaces with solder-flux it is only neces-
sary to place solder on the frame, lay the flange on top of it and apply
torch beneath. When solder melts, press flange down and into exact
position with a small stick of wood. It is better to have flanges suffi-
ciently narrow to allow the uprights to fit in back of them.
The same form can be used for upper and lower frames. Should there
be any irregularity in shape they will both be alike, and so far as strength
is concerned, it will only be necessary to keep corresponding defective
corners parallel with each other, so as not to make any twisting strain on
the glass — a force which, sooner or later, will cause it to break. If the
frame is too large for a board, it may be trued by lines drawn to lay it
over. The use of forms, however, is so desirable to the amateur that
we recommend having boards rabbited together in order to secure suffi-
cient width.

To test the squareness of upper and lower frames, lay them on the
floor, make marks at the corners and turn completely over, trying both
length and width in this way. Tests by squares at corners are only
approximate, as the angle metal is seldom perfectly straight, especially
lighter brass. Before leaving the subject of bending the frames to right-
angles we strongly suggest that an experimental bend first be made with
a waste piece of angle brass. A little practise will be necessary to learn
just how thin a particular lot of brass must be filed in order to make a
good bend.

The next step is to bore holes in the lower frame where it is to be
bolted through the base, countersinking for depression of bolt or rivet
head, and allowing enough room not to interfere with the glass. Now
solder in uprights at perfect right angles to inside of top and bottom
frames, being careful not to use enough heat to melt former soldering.

It will be observed that the glass will be supported by the upright
posts but not by the top nor bottom frames. This is corrected by soldering,
about every eight inches, a small piece of brass (cut from the same ma-
terial) to the horizontal frames next to where the glass is to come, thus
giving it even support on all four edges. The pieces are soldered down
perfectly flat and if high should be filed down. Before the glass is finally
inserted it must be laid in the frame to see that the points of contact are
even. Deficiencies can be made up by a drop of solder on the brass, and
filed down as required.

216 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

The frame being trued up it is now bolted through the base, aquarium
cement being liberally supplied in the bolt holes and between the frame
and the base, all surplus being immediately wiped away.

Soldering. The ordinary amateur is equipped neither with the fa-
cilities nor the experience to use a soldering iron to advantage. The
author has engaged in considerable aquarium construction and has usu-
ally been able to get along very well without an iron, its main use being
to clear surplus solder away more quickly than can be done with a file.
Before soldering, the surface is properly prepared by scraping and the
application of a flux composed of hydrochloric acid which has dissolved
as much zinc as possible. An alcohol blow-torch is satisfactory for small
work, but for the heavier construction a gasoline torch is better. When
the heat is applied and the liquid of the flux has boiled away, touch thp
heated surface occasionally with soft solder wire. Apply a little more
heat after first sign of melting, withdraw flame and proceed to quickly
solder. Where work is in a position so that it is difficult to hold the
pieces steadily in place while solder cools, an assistant can instantly "set"
it by pouring on a little water. If acid flux darkens the hands where it
touches, the stain can be removed by dilute ammonia water.

Small Aquaria. Very compact, neat and substantial aquaria can be
made in the foregoing manner, but without projecting base — in fact with-
out slate at all. The bottom is self-contained concrete. The top frame
and upright corner posts are of 3/2 -inch angle brass, and the bottom frame
of 1-inch size. In the inside edges of this are soldered a few brass
screws. Now prepare a mixture of one part of Portland Cement to
two of clean sand, brought to a thick, mushy consistency by addition of
water. Lay the frame on a good, flat piece of glass and pour in the
cement to a depth of }i inch, seeing that it lays smooth, particularly
where the glass is to rest.

After the cement is poured and smoothed it should be covered to be
allowed to dry slowly. In about two days the frame and base can be slid
off the glass. The screws soldered on inside will always hold the base
securely in place. To prevent free chemicals washing out of cement into
the aquarium water it is well to waterproof the inside of base before set-
ting glass in. This may be done by melting chips of paraffine under the
alcohol blow-torch, or by pouring on a mixture of paraffine dissolved in
warm gasoline. To prepare this mixture place a quart bottle of gasoline in
a butcket of warm water. Add two ounces of paraftine chips and stir until
dissolved. Keep the solution warm and saturate the base with it. W'hen
dry, place in glass as in an ordinary aquarium.

TEOPICAL AQUAEIUM FISHES 217

(The foregoing mixture of gasoline-paraffine will waterproof wood,
concrete, brick, fabrics or anything that will absorb it. For fabrics to be
used or bent, use only one ounce of paraffine.)

After making one of these aquaria the knack becomes very easy.
A row of them of uniform size presents a neat appearance and can be
used in small space, since there is no projecting base. This style of con-
struction is suitable for aquaria with bases up to eleven by eighteen inches.
In larger sizes the uprights and top angles ought to be from five-eights to
three-quarter inch metal, while heavy wire screen should be embedded in
the cement for re-inforcement.

If the frames are to be nickeled this should be done before pouring
the cement base.

Glass for Aquaria. Although double-thick window glass may be
used for aquaria up to the 25 gallon size, plate-glass is so much hand-
somer and costs so little more, it seems like a wise investment. If- window-
glass is used, the imported kinds will be found best. Plate-glass is now
made in 3-16 inches thickness. This is suitable for aquaria under 50 gal-
lons. For those for 50 to 75 gallons, the best thickness is % inch, and for
the still larger sizes up to 120 gallons, y^ inch. The author and others
have occasionally picked up bargains in plate-glass from plate-glass
insurance concerns, who often have on their hands large remnants of
bulk-windows.

Setting the Glass. The edges of the glass should be carefully
cleaned with whiting, ammonia or alcohol to remove any grease. It is well
to first coat the edges which are to come into contact with the cement
with gold size, allowing this to set for a day or two. This is more
particularly needed with large plate-glass aquaria. Apply a liberal coating
of aquarium cement to the inside of frame, and a thin but well covered
coat to the contact edges of the glass. Press into place slowly but firmly,
cleaning away at once all surplus cement. Light sticks cut of a length
to brace across inside of aquarium will maintain an outward pressure
on the glass for several days until it is fairly set. After the glass is well
set it is advisable, especially with the larger sizes, to run a line of aqua-
rium cement up the inside corners and along the bottom edges, covering
with a narrow strip of glass, or. better, embedding a glass rod of from
^ to ^-inch diameter in it, pressing in as far as possible and wiping
away the surplus cement.

Fill slowly in about a week and change water several times in two
weeks before putting in fishes.

Large aquaria nearly always leak a little at first, or after moving
them, or even after emptying without moving. This usually corrects

218 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES Al^D

itself within a few days, but, as elsewhere directed, it can nearly always
be stopped by making the water very mnddy. The particles of dirt get
into the leak and choke it up.

Aquarium Cements. The prime requisites of an aquarium cement
are resistence to water, adhesiveness, moderately quick setting without
ever becoming stone-hard, and being non-poisonous. A cement com-
bining these qualities is composed of one pound of litharge, one pound of
Plaster of Paris, two ounces of powdered resin and one-half pound of
glazier's sand ; mixed with boiled linseed oil to a consistency of putty suit-
able for glazing. This cement has been found to be good for both fresh
and marine water aquaria. A durable cement for those who cannot
obtain very fine sand is made of equal parts by weight of zinc white,
whiting and litharge, mixed with boiled linseed oil to a firm but tacky
consistency.

Cement for Marine Aquaria. A cement used for large, city
marine aquaria is composed of 3 parts by measurement of Portland
Cement, 3 parts fine white sand, 1 part powdered resin ; mixed with
boiled linseed oil.

Cement for Wooden-Framed Aquaria. The best cement for
small wooden-framed aquaria is made of 1 part of gutta percha and 4
parts of pitch, boiled together and applied warm, first heating the glass
somewhat. It is difficult to handle this quickly enough on large aquaria,
for which the following will be found better: 3 parts Portland Cement,
2 parts zinc white, 3 parts fine sand, 1 part powdered resin, made into a
firm paste with boiled linseed oil.

CONCRETE AQUARIA

The making of concrete aquaria opens a new and an unlimited field.
Those who have felt that the metal-frame aquarium is hopelessly restricted
and commonplace can here find more room for individual expression,
design and achievement. The illustration facing title page gives an idea of
possibilities along this line. The aquarium shown is one designed and
built by Mr. L. M. Dorsey and probably represents the highest develop-
ment, up to this time, of artistic ideas as applied to a household aquarium.
In the Philadelphia Aquarium Society annual competition Mr. Dorsey
was awarded the prize cup three times, thereby becoming its permanent
possessor.

As individual ideas will vary so widely in the design of concrete
aquaria, only a few (yet important) directions can be given. Cement
should be of the highest grade, fresh and free from lumps. A mixture
of one part cement to two of clean, sharp sand is about right. Wooden

TROPICAL AQUARIU.M FISHES

210

forms ought to be soaked with water just before using, or else thoroughly
paraffined. Cement mixture should be wet enough to just pour, and
needs to be well tamped to avoid bubbles. Re-inforcement rods (% inch
diameter) are essential, especially around the top edge, where a con-
tinuous band should be formed. Over the bottom the bars should be
wired together, forming 4-inch squares. Do not be in a hurry to get the
forms off. The w'hole job should be moistened for a day and allowed to
stand for two more days if their removal is going to cause any strain.
Glass must not be embedded directly in the concrete, but provision made
for later setting it in with ordinary aquarium cement. If sides do not
support the glass evenly they should be cut away or built up until they
do. Otherwise glass is sure to crack when the soft aquarium cement
yields to the water pressure. After base is finished it is w-ell to paraffine
it as described on page 216. All cement pouring should be done at one
operation.

CONSTRUCTION OF WOODEN TANKS

Many expert fanciers are of the opinion that for the welfare of fishes
there is no receptacle equal to a well-seasoned wooden tank. For breeding
purposes they are especially valuable, but in no case should tanks be used
before numerous changes of water have been made over a period of
several weeks.

Fk;. 160. WooDKN Brkedint. Tank

220 GOLDFISH VAKIETIES AXD

The best wood for tanks is well-seasoned cypress, the natural habitat
of the tree being in wet places. Any size tank may be made, but there are
two sizes found quite convenient and which cut to good advantage out of
the lumber. The larger measures 16 inches high, 30 inches wide and 48
inches long. The smaller one measures 9 inches high, 24 inches wide and
32 inches in length. For the larger size 1^4 -inch lumber is used, which
is about lys inches when dressed. Here a board 16 inches wide is used,
avoiding seams in any of the sides, and being but one in the bottom. The
side and bottom boards are rabbeted to }i inch deep and 1^ inches from
edge to receive the ends. Bottom boards are tongued and grooved. All
joints should receive a preliminary coating of white lead paint. After this
is dried a thicker coat should be applied just before putting joints together.
The tank is then clamped and 194-inch screws inserted through the sides
into the bottom and ends, and through the bottom into the ends. Cleats
3 inches wide are placed across centre of bottom and all the way around
the ends. Through the top of latter is passed an iron rod yi inch thick,
then secured and tightened with washer and nut at ends. The smaller
tank is constructed in the same manner, except that cleat across centre
bottom and the iron rods are omitted.

\Miile painting the outside improves the appearance, it has more of a
tendency to rot a tank than preserve it, as the paint prevents the evapora-
tion of the moisture naturally gathered from the inside. Leaks will usually
correct themselves in a few days, but should they not do so, a few hand-
fulls of earth stirred in the water and allowed to stand a few hours will
make the job tight. Occasional stirring of the dirty water helps. The
white lead should be allowed a day to harden before filling with water.

CONSTRUCTION OF TANKS AND POOLS

For outdoor purposes it is better to dig holes in the ground and
puddle them with clay rather than make poorly constructed concrete
basins or pools of any size. Unless the work is properly done the frost
is certain to crack it, and even the weight of the water may be sufficient
to bring about this result. Repaired work is never satisfactory, and the
next winter will open more seams, making continual expense, dissatis-
faction, loss of water and of fishes. With indoor concrete tanks too,
thorough construction is a good investment.

The main points in the construction of such work are good foun-
dations, thorough reinforcement, good cement properly mixed, and one
continuous job of the finishing coat. The concrete centre ought also be
poured within the space of one day. There is some difference of opinion
as to the necessity for a base of cinders. The author favors them. If
used they should be the hard kind, wetted down and packed solid to a

TEOPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

221

depth of one foot or more. For tanks of moderate size — say 11x22
feet — reinforcement should be by use of ^-inch steel rods, crossed on
squares of 8 inches. The bottom needs two layers of these bars, one near
the up]ier and one near the lower surface. This protects against both

Fig.

161. Correct Arrangement of Reinforcing Steel, and Galvanized Iron
Form for Water Lily Pot

Fig. 162. Wooden Form Ready for Concrete Pouring
The dotted blocks represent bricks or stones to hold inside form to same height
as the outside. Note slope of inside form.

222

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AXD

inside and outside pressures. The lower frame of bars is bent up at
the ends to form a cradle, thus reinforcing the side walls. The ends are
finally again bent over at right angles, running in the direction of the
wall, and laced together. Above this are two continuous bands of the
steel. Figures 161 and 163 will indicate these points. The corners are
always the weakest points. As the concrete is poured, lay in extra
right-angle pieces of 12 inches total length.

The pouring of the concrete makes a great strain on the forms.
These need to be thoroughly braced in the beginning, for it is impossible
to improvise means of looking after these points, once the work has
started and the walls have bulged or the corners sprung. The outside
bottom stakes are merely driven into the ground and not otherwise
fastened. Outside corners in addition to being nailed are secured by
pieces of tin, nailed through. Inside corners are held by iron elbows
(to be had at hardware stores). They are secured by screws. The nails
fastening side-cleats should be driven through and turned over. Concrete
walls had best be thicker at the bottom, putting all the slope on the inside.
A good inside depth for ordinary purposes is 15 inches, filling to 13j^
inches with water. If an overflow is to be made through side, make a
core of soft wood and saturate it with water so that it will contract upon

Fig. 163. Cross-section of Finished Pool
The lowest layer represents cinders. We have indicated here the upper layer
of re-inforcement in the base, impossible to show in Fig. 161.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

drying. For outdoor pools an inside slope of 2 inches is about right.
This would be. for a 7 x 9-foot pool, a top thickness of 4 inches, with
6 inches at the bottom. Base, 6 inches thick. For larger sizes add 1 inch
of thickness to walls and base. Indoor pools require no slope. In mak-
ing all calculations, allow ^ inch for thickness of finishing coat. The
forms should be levelled up and made absolutely true in the beginning.
It is a bad plan to depend upon the finishing coat to correct inaccuracies.
It seldom does it. Some considerable care is necessary to establish the
four comers at perfect level. Select one corner and measure each of
the other three from that. If the spirit-level is attached to a board,
its trueness should be tested by reversing the ends. In any case the
level should be reversed on each test.

The concrete is mixed 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts ^-inch
crushed stone or round stone. This is poured to within Yz inch of top
of form, beginning with the base and must be well tamped to avoid
bubbles and open spots. Those wishing to secure the best possible
results first place a thin skin of cement over the cinders so the water in
concrete will not seep into the cinder base, it being desiralble that all
concrete work dry slowly in order to crystallize perfectly. This prelim-
inary skin is as thin as possible and is applied the day before. It is com-
posed half each of sand and cement. If this is used, the lower layer
of re-inforcement may be laid directly upon it.

ra ^ Q ft ." 6- ^ .' , * 4 ' ft"

..4

Fig. 164

Fig. 165

Fig. 160

Fij. 164. Tile Set on Cement Mound. Fig. 165. Top Finishing Coat Broujht to Level of Form. Fie. 166. Guide-board
in Position for Inside Finishing Coat (VVhether or not tiles are used, this is the best method of linishing)

Finishing coat should be applied within 24 hours, and is made 1 part
cement, 2 parts sand. Finish one side at a time, top edge first, inside
surface next, then outside, and the bottom after 4 sides are complete.
Begin by filling to top of form. Now take off inside form jrom one
side only. Lay a piece of perfectly straight board along top edge. This
makes an infallible gauge for thickness and straightness of finishing coat
(Figure 166). Here we might say that it is advisable to have an experi-
enced finisher do this work, but a resourceful amateur can do it. Now
do the outside in the same manner, the idea here being to have the top
bind with the sides while fresh. The outside being done last is less likely
to be kicked. Try to protect the job from rapid drying in the sun.

224 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AN^D

It is very nice to sink a hole in the centre for the reception of a
water lily plant. This adds considerably to the planning and labor, but
the result is worth it in satisfaction if one is fond of beautiful aquatics.
At the same time the bottom can be drained towards the centre, a good
point when it conies to the annual cleaning-out. Figure 163 shows this.
The hole ought to be about 18 inches wide at the top, 15 at the bottom
and 17 deep. The galvanized iron form is removed by bending it inwards
at one point. This form is of thin metal and has no bottom, it being
impossible to withdraw a bucket on account of suction.

Another added attraction for those caring for the aesthetic side is
the addition of tiles in the edges. To try to push these into the finishing
coat is to court certain trouble and a botch job. As soon as the concrete
is poured the tiles should be set on little mounds of cement as indicated
in Figure 164, seeing that they come to exactly the right level, fixing the
four corner ones first. Next day the finishing coat is filled around them
and they help to establish the correct level. The cement will slop over
on them a little, but this is no matter. Most of it can be wiped off with
water and the balance after drying, with dilute hydrochloric acid.

The author is not partial to drain-pipes. They may become dislodged
and let the tank run dry, or, on the other hand, they may get sand in them
and not go back into place. However, this is a matter of personal pref-
erence.

In two days after the finishing coat is applied, a little water may be
run in. On the fourth day fill completely. All cement containers should
be seasoned before the fishes are introduced.

This can be done by changing the water six times over a period of
two weeks. This is not thorough and a longer time is better. Seasoning
can be accelerated by different chemical processes. The safest is to fill
the pool and slake a large piece of lime in it. In a pool 8 x 12 feet, slake
about half a bushel. There is no danger of using too much. After slak-
ing, stir every few hours and clean out thoroughly in two days. Another
method is to place a piece of blue litmus paper (obtainable in drug store)
in the water after it has stood a day and been stirred up. Then slowly
add and stir in commercial sulphuric acid until the paper shows a faint
pink hue. Allow to stand another day and if the paper goes back to blue,
repeat addition of acid. When the pink shade remains draw off water,
clean thoroughly and use. Enough acid to turn the paper a distinct pink
or red should not be used. Always stir water well before determining
color of paper. This test is only for the acid process.

Aquarium or Tank Capacity. To ascertain the gallon capacity of
any rectangular tank, multiply the length, breadth and depth together in
inches. Divide by 231. The result will be in gallons.

A gallon weighs 8 1-3 pounds.

Fig. 167. Finished Pool, Showing Sunkkx Lii.v Pot and Overflow

Fig. 169. "Quekn Lil," a Many-time Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope
Goldfish

Chapter Eighteen

Aquarium Appliances

228

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

AQUARIUM APPLIANCES

Nets. The most important device in aquarium work is a net with
which to catch the fish, yet in most instances it is of faulty construction.
The scales of a fish are easily knocked oflf by the hard knots in the coarse

Figs. 170 and 171. I'koper Nets ior GoLurisHES .\nu Yuunm; Tropicals

threads composing nets usually sold. This is very bad for the fish. A
far better material is Brussels nettin^^ of a mesh such as is used on
window curtains — not too fine.

When fish have to be caught from a globe, a round net is con-
venient, but for a straight-side aquarium, a square or oblong net is very
much better. Usually these cannot be purchased, but to make one is a
simple matter and well repays for the eft"ort. Perhaps the easiest way
is to purchase a round net, remove netting, bend wires to an oblong form
and re-cover with Brussels netting.

Glass Cleaners. The best device for cleaning the inside glass of
straight aquaria is a safety razor blade secured in a stick and riveted
through. First rivet or wrap end of stick with fine copper wire to prevent

Fig. 172. Safety Razor Blade Aquarium Glass Cleaner

splitting, place razor blade firmly in iron vise and drive down stick to
proper point. A blade may be used directly in the hand, but in this case
it is better to dull one edge first in order to avoid cutting the fingers.

A dime rubbed flat against the glass will clean it. For cleaning
globes a piece of thick felt is very good, although any piece of clean
fabric will do.

Dip Tube. Sometimes particles of food remain too long after feed-
ing. Also dirt collects in spots. Such places can easily be cleaned by
use of a dip tube. Any tube of from one-quarter to three-eighths inch

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

229

inside diameter and about six inches lonj'i'er than the depth of the
aquarium will do. Glass is preferable. Hold the thumb firmly over one
end. place other end near particles to be lifted. Remove thumb, allowing
water and particles to rush into tube. Replace thumb, lift out and empty.
The capacity of the tube can be considerably increased by heating the
centre over a Bunsen flame and blowing a sort of belly.

Siphon. When much dirt needs to be removed or the aquarium
emptied, a siphon should be used. This consists simply of a hose
sufficiently long to reach from the bottom of the aquarium, up over the
edge and down again to a point near the floor. The longer the drop, the
more rapid the flow. Fill tube with water, close both ends by finger
pressure, insert one end in the aquarium and hold the other as low as
possible. Release the ends of tube and the water will flow as long as
there is water in the aquarium at a higher point than the discharging
end of tube. Care should be taken not to draw in fish or snails.

Forceps. A pair of forceps for aquarium work forms a most handy
tool. Their construction is very simple. Take a piece of ^-inch brass
wire thirty inches long and bend to shape shown in Figure 173. Where
the wire crosses, hammer out a small flat space through which a rivet

Fig. 173. Aquarium Forceps

can be fastened. A small section of brass wire or a copper tack can be
used as a rivet. When the forceps are otherwise completed, flatten out
the ends by hanimeiing on an iron vise or other firm surface. The jaws
of the forceps automatically remain open. Pressure on the upper loop
closes them. They will be found quite handy in adjusting plants and
lifting out snails, stones or other small objects.

Planting Sticks. To secure the roots of plants in sand would
seem a very simple matter, but when the aquarium is filled it is most
difficult to set them without the help of one or two planting sticks. These
are as simple as they are useful, being merely thin sticks with a dull

Fui. 174. Pi..\NTixG Stick

notch in the end. About three-eighths of an inch is a suitable size
diameter for the sticks. The notch should be slightly rounded on the
edges to avoid cutting the roots as they are forced into the sand. Two

230

GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D

sticks are better than one. Plants like Giant Sagittaria should be pressed
down from two sides. After the plant is placed to the proper depth, it
should be held with one stick while the other is used to push sand over
the roots and to press down straggling roots which have not been covered.
Aquariums should not be planted while filled, but sometimes a few plants
ride loose on the first filling or some are added later. For such occasions
planting sticks are most handy. A pair of rulers will do for an emer-
gency. Almost anything is better than the fingers.

Scissors. A pair of scissors with a 15-inch rod securely wrapped
to each handle is useful for trimming dead leaves from plants. With this

Fig. 175. Aquarium Scissors

tool plants can be reached without disturbing anything, and one can get
a better view of what is to be done than when working elbow-deep in
the water.

Live-bearing Jars. With most varieties of viviparous (live-bear-
ing) fishes it is desirable to promptly separate the mother and other fish
from the young in order that they will not be eaten. One simple method
is to take a glass funnel about six inches across the top, file a nick where
base joins tube, break ofif tube and place a small piece of U-shaped wire

Figs. 176 and 177. Side and Top Views of All-Glass Breeding Jars, Showing

Escape Slit

in the opening so that the wire divides the hole in half. The funnel is
then placed in a bell jar or other aquarium of a size that will suspend it

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

231

by the edge, bring the water as high as possible in funnel, place female
fish in funnel and cover over with screen. The wire will prevent the
mother fish from becominc;- jammed in the outlet, but will allow the young
to pass through and collect in the lower portion of jar.

Very excellent breeding glasses come from Germany. These have
a long narrow slit in the bottom and may be hooked on the inside of any
receptacle. See Fig. 177.

Spawning Net, In the spawning season aquarium space is often
limited, particularly among amateur breeders who have perhaps a single
aquarium. The breeding fish should be separated from the others, as the
idle fish would eat the spawn. An easy way over this difficulty is the

Fig. 178. Spawxixg Net

use of the spawning net. This is simply a square bag of cheesecloth sus-
pended in the aquarium. Figure number 178 will clearly show how this
may be done. The four corners should be weighted down with bits of
lead or stone sewed in. The plants and spawning fish are simply trans-
ferred into the net. Confined in this comparatively small space the
chances of the eggs becoming fertilized are increased, while the netting
is sufficiently open to allow the aquarium water to flow slowly through
it and prevent suffocation. In this way the large amount of dirt usually
stirred up in an aquarium at spawning time, and which can do the
adhesive eggs no good, is entirely avoided. The size of the net will
depend somewhat on the proportions of the aquarium, but the capacity

GOLDFISH VARIETIES AXD

of net (portion in water) should be about twelve to eighteen inches long,
ten inches wide and ten inches deep. In constructing, allow extra
material for space between top frame and surface of water.

Constant Aquarium Filter. This device is for use in connection
with the air pump referred to on page 10. It is capable of a number of
variations, once the principle is understood. There are two columns of
water in the tubes, one solid and one punctuated by air bubbles, thereby
making it the lighter. This causes it to rise and therefore establish cir-
culation as long as air is supplied. A ^-inch diameter glass surgical drain
is shown at A. This should contain about eight small openings and be
suspended two inches above the sand. This is connected by a short piece
of rubber tubing to the rest of the system, which is of glass tubing from
5/16 to 3/^ inch inside diameter. The dark sections represent rubber
joints, making the system more flexible, less liable to breakage, less ex-
pense in case of break and makes cleaning of each section easy. (The
tubes require an annual cleaning.) Air is injected under pressure at C,
which should be five inches above lowest point of pipes. This starts the
flow, which is discharged into D, a small filter suspended in the corner of
the aquarium, and just above water level. It may be made of glass, alumi-
num, porcelain or eathenware, and should approximate in size five inches
in diameter by two deep, the bottom having a few perforations. The best
filtering medium in this work is absorbent cotton, which should be laid
on a few pebbles, glass bars or bits of charcoal for good drainage. The
force of air and the distance between C and the surface of water deter-
mines the speed at which the water travels. The lower the point at which
air is injected, the greater the speed. To start the system, disconnect at B,
suck with the lips to start siphon, re-connect while water is running. After
water in rise tube has reached aquarium level, turn on air-cock at C. This
cock should always be closed when air is not wanted and pump not work-
ing, in order to prevent water backing up into air pipe. All rubber joints
should be tightly secured by wrapping with thread or narrow strips of
electric tape. Rubber cement spread on connecting surfaces helps make a
good job. If there is danger of glass tubes being broken it is best to use
pipe of block tin. For salt water, use glass or lead.

Instead of filtering at top of aquarium it is possible to pass the water
through a big, large-necked bottle of sand at the lowest point of dip. Both
tubes pass through a rubber cork, the dirty water being carried to bottom
of bottle, discharged in a layer of pebbles, brought upwards through fine
sand and taken ofif by rise pipe just inside of cork. The sand should not
quite fill bottle. Cork must be securely tied down. This is a nice arrange-

'J'KOPICAL AQUAKTUM FISHES

233

ment, but was abandoned by the writer owing to the trouble of discon-
necting everything and washing sand every ten days, which was necessary
owing to clogging. In top filter the cotton must be changed every two
days, but this can be done in a few seconds.

This arrangement both filters antl aerates the water. If filtering is
not needed, the filter can be removed and aeration will go on.

B

Fig. 179. Water Circulatiox by Air Presslrk

Water can be raised by this method from fifteen to twenty-five inches
above level. To secure the greater height, use 34-i"ch inside diameter
tube, take plenty of drop and allow eight inches from lowest point to C.
By this means and a little ingenuity a return fountain can be made. To
secure a uniform flow it would require a small tank to receive the dis-
charge from the pipe, and from this an overflow to aquarium in case the
water supply comes too rapidly for discharge rate of fountain.

It is not necessary to carry pipes over edge of aquarium as shown in
diagram; they may be carried through the bottom, carrying dirty water
directly down. The rise tube should be brought up through inside, over
edge of filter. Short pieces of tubing long enough to reach above the
sand and to extend an inch below the aquarium base should be used for
passing through the slate. A very effective means of securing these in

234 GOLDFISH VARIETIES Al^^D

permanent position is to melt by alcohol blow-torch some chips of gum
shellac. This melting is done in the aquarium directly around the tube
and is continued until a small mound is formed. A piece of wet cardboard
will protect nearby glass from the heat. Gum shellac has perfect
resistance to water. It will adhere to almost anything and is of especial
value in connecting glass to metal. When cool it is quite hard.

Chapter Nineteen

Forty Don'ts

236 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AI^D

FORTY DON'TS

Don't overfeed.

Don't overstock.

Don't inbreed too long.

Don't use very deep aquaria.

Don't delay treating sick fishes.

Don't start with expensive fishes.

Don't allow dead leaves to accumulate.

Don't use fishglobes except temporarily.

Don't attempt to move filled large aquaria.

Don't neglect to look fishes over carefully.

Don't fail to replace covers on tropical aquaria.

Don't use oil stoves if anything else can be had.

Don't keep very large and small fishes together.

Don't always blame the dealer if your fishes die.

Don't use coarse nets. Brussels netting is better.

Don't keep any aquarium in a very subdued light.

Don't introduce plants without thoroughly cleansing.

Don't fail to give the fishes an occasional pinch of salts.

Don't fail to sterilize a net after lifting a diseased fish.

Don't put the fish outdoors the first warm day of Spring.

Don't be too sure the family cat won't fish in the aquarium.

Don't entrust the feeding to another if this can be avoided.

Don't as a beginner disregard the greater experience of others.

Don't sell surplus stock for a song. It had better be given away.

Don't feed large earthworms. They should be chopped and rinsed.

Don't slide all-glass aquaria. Scratches may cause them to break.

Don't forget that most fishes enjoy an occasional variation in food.

Don't assume that ordinary artificial light is a substitute for daylight.

Don't experiment with rare tropicals to see how cool they may be kept.

Don't suddenly change the temperature of the water, either higher or

lower.
Don't allow unconsumed food to remain in the aquarium. Remove with

dip-tube.

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 237

Don't use unmixed raw water from the taueet. The excess of oxygen is
undesirable.

Don't fail to join an aquarium society, cither as an active or a correspond-
ing member.

Don't place daphnia in the aquarium witliout first lookini;- carefully for
insect enemies.

Don't fail to thoroughly disinfect an aquarium in which there has been a
contagious disease.

Don't tear up the plants in trying to catch a fish. A little patience will
avoid later regrets.

Don't be stingy, but give away a lew interesting fishes to those who
might become fanciers.

Don't keep goldfishes and tropicals together. They may not quarrel, but
the appearance is not good.

Don't throw away dead rare fishes. Preserve in alcohol. Scientific insti-
tutions are glad to have them.

Don't always use chemicals on a fish a little out of condition. A change
of aquarium or of food may be all that is necessary.

238 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AYD

ILLUSTRATIONS AND THEIR SOURCES

Frontispiece. Original Photograph (colored) by the Author, Mr. L. M. Dorsey's

Prizewinning Concrete Aquarium.
Figure I^age

1. Air Pump. Original Drawing by the Author 10

2. African Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer 11

3. Japanese Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer 11

4. Red Ramshorn Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer 11

5. Freshwater Mussel. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes... 13

6. Weatherfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler 13

7. Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope. Owned by Joseph Heilman. Original

Photograph by the Author 17

8. Prizewinning Moor. Owned by Fred G. Schaefer. Original Photo-

graph by the Author 18

9. Common Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 20

10. Comet Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry \V. Fowler 25

11. Shubunkin Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry \V. Fowler. . 25

12. Fantail Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing 25

13. Japanese Fringetail Goldfish. Drawn bv Henrv W. Fowler from Life

Sketch by Franklin Barrett '. .' 27

14. Nymph Goldfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler, after Life Sketch by

Franklin Barrett 28

15. Chinese Telescope Goldfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Life

Sketch by the Author " 29

16. Chinese Scaleless Telescope (Dorsal View). Owned by Louis Burk.

Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing 30

17. Calico Veiltail Telescope. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Sketch by

the Author 32

18. Chinese Celestial Telescope. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W.

Fowler 33

19. Young Chinese Moor. Owned by Fred G. Schaefer. Drawn by Henry W.

Fowler from Original Photograph by the Author 34

20. Lionhead Goldfish. Owned bv Louis Burk. Original Drawing from Life

by Henry W. Fowler . . .'. 35

21. Oranda Goldfish. Owned by Franklin Barrett. Original Drawing from

Life by Henry W. Fowler 36

22. Chinese Eggfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler 37

23. Tailless Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett 38

24. Exhibition, Horticultural Hall. Original Photograph by the Author 41

25. Medal, Aquarium Society. Original Photograph by the Author 42

26. Diagram of Swallowtail Comet. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 43

27. Diagram of Veiltail Comet. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 43

28. Diagram of Swallowtail Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 44

29. Diagram of Veiltail Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 44

30. Diagram of Swallowtail Telescope Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett. . 44

31. Diagram of Veiltail Telescope Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 44

32. Diagram of Swallowtail Japanese Fringetail. Drawn by Franklin Barrett. . 44

33. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 44

34. Diagram of Veiltail Japanese Fringetail. Drawn by Franklin Barrett ... . 45

35. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by FrankHn Barrett 45

36. Diagram of Swallowtail Telescope. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 45

37. Diagram of Veiltail Telescope. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 45

38. Diagram of Oranda. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 45

39. Diagram of Celestial. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 45

40. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by Franklin Barrett 46

41. Diagram of Lionhead. Drawn by FrankHn Barrett 46

TROnCAL AQUAEIUM FISHES 239

Figure Page

42. Goldfishes Spawning. Original Photograph by the Author 51

43. Goldfish Eggs. Original Photograph by the Author 52

44. Goldfish Fry at Two Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author 53

45. Goldfish at Six Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author 54

46. Goldfish at Twelve Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author 55

47. Goldfish Over One Year. Original Photograph by the Author .••.••• ^^

48. Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope. Owned by Fred Schaefer. Original

Photograph by the Author 56

49. Farm Breeding Ponds. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, after Sketch by

Franklin Barrett 63

50. Wholesale Breeding Establishment. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, after

Sketch by Franklin Barrett 66

51. Red-Bellied Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 70

52. Rosy-Sided Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 71

53. Black-Nosed Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler. . 72

54. Stickleback. After Jordan and Everniann 72

55. Chaetodon. After Jordan and Evermann 73

56. Sunfish. After Jordan and Evermann 74

57. Silverfin. After Jordan and Evermann 75

58. Darter. After Jordan and Evermann 76

59. Killifish. After Jordan and Evermann 76

60. Golden Orfe. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler 77

61. Catfish. After Jordan and Evermann 77

62. Golden Tench. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler 7S

63. Sucker. After Jordan and Evermann 78

64. Roach. After Jordan and Evermann 79

65. Chub. After Jordan and Evermann 79

66. Mullet. After Jordan and Evermann 80

67. Eel. After Jordan and Evermann 80

68. Sole. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler 81

69. Mirror Carp. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing 81

70. Nest Builders. From Blatter 103

71. Chanchito. From Conradshohc Catalog .^ 104

72. Polvacanthus davi. From Conradshohc Catalog 104

73. Direct External Heater. Original Drawing by the Author 105

74. Indirect External Heater. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey 105

75. Indirect System Through Base. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey 105

76. Direct Heating Through Pan. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey 106

77. Direct Heating Through Metal Disc. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey. . 106
7S. Gas Thermostat. Courtesy. A. H. Thomas 108

79. Sea Horse. Original Drawing from Life bv Henry W. Fowler 117

80. Red Triton. Original Photograph by Dr. R. W. Shufeldt 121

81. Enclosed Aqua-Terrarium. After Zernecke 122

82. Swamp Aquarium. After Zernecke 1-5

83. Daphnia. Original Drawing from Life by the Author 130

84. Mosquito Larva. Original Drawing from Life by the Author 130

85. Mosquito Egg Raft. After Howard 130

86. Mosquito Pupa. Original Drawing from Life by the .•\uthor 130

87. Cvclops. Original Drawing by Mary Weber 130

88. Cvpris. Original Drawing by Helen Winchester 130

89. Bloodworm (Chironomus). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester 134

90. Tubifex Worms. Original Drawing by Helen Winchester 134

91. Freshwater Shrimp. Original Drawing from Life by Frank J. Myers... 135

92. Water Asel. After Sars , 135

93. Rotifer (Asplaiich)iopus). Original Drawing from Life by Frank J.

Myers 13.^

94. Rotifer {Ptcrodwa). Original Drawing by Frank J. Myers 13^

95. Rotifer {Xotciis^. Original Drawing from Life by Frank J. Myers 135

96. Microscopic Animal Life {13 figures). Original Drawings from Life by

Frank J. Alvers 141

97. Diseased Fish (White fungus). Original Drawmg by Frankhn Barrett.. 147

98. Fish Louse (Argulus). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester 154

99. Water Tiger (Dytiscus larva). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester.. 156

240 GOLDFISH VAEIETIES A^D

Figure Page

100. Spearmouth ( Hydro philns larva). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester 157

101. Dragon Fly Nymph (Anax Junius). Original Drawing by Helen Win-

chester ■

102. Dragon Fly Larva Catching Fish. Original Drawing by Mary Weber.... 157

103. Water Boatman. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 158

104. Predaceous Diving Beetle. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win-

chester 159

105. Water Scavenger Beetle. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win-

chester 159

106. Giant Water Bug With Eggs (B. serphiis). Original Drawing from Life

by Helen Winchester 160

107. Giant Water Bug (B. Americana). After Mary Wellman 160

108. Water Scorpion. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber 160

109. Whirligig Beetle. After Marv Wellman 161

110. Larva of WhirHgig Beetle. After Mary Wellman 161

111. Water Strider. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 161

112. Water Mite. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 161

113. Hydra. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes 162

114. Roots of Aquatic Plant. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes 164

115. Sagittaria natans. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch

by Franklin Barrett 165

116. Giant Sagittaria. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester....

117. Sagittaria subulata. Drawn bv Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch

by Franklin Barrett 168

118. Wild Ludwigia (L. gland ulosa). Original Drawing from Life by Mary

Weber 168

119. Vallisneria. Drawn by Henrv P'. Schwing, from Original Sketch by

Franklin Barrett ' 169

120. Giant Vallisneria. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 171

121. Wild Anacharis. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch

by Franklin Barrett 173

122. Anacharis (cultivated). Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win-

chester 175

123. Cabomha. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 175

124. Myriophyllum. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 177

125. Bladderwort. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 177

126. Hair Grass. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by

Franklin Barrett 178

127. Potamogeton. Drawing by Henrv P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by

Franklin Barrett 179

128. Nitella. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes 179

129. Ludwigia (cultivated). Drawing by Henrv P. Schwing, from Original

Sketch by Franklin Barrett 181

130. Spatterdock (Southern). Drawing bv Henrv P. Schwing, from Original

Sketch by Franklin Barrett ." 182

131. Spatterdock (Japanese). Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original

Sketch by Franklin Barrett 183

132. Fontinalis, antipyretica. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber... 184

133. Fontinalis, gracilis. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber 184

134. Bacopa. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett 185

135. Starwort. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber 185

136. Mare's Tail. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 187

, 137. Moneywort. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett 187

138. Quillwort. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, after Poyser 188

139. Heteranthera. Drawing bv Henrv P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by

Franklin Barrett ' ' 189

140. Lace Plant. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett

141. Water Poppv. Drawing bv Henrv P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by

Franklin Barrett ....'. ". 191

142. Duckweed. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 191

143. Azolla. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester 191

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 241

144. Cnstalwort. Original Drawing from l.ifc by Helen Winchester 191

145. Salvinia. ()rij,Hnal Drawing from Life Ity Henry P. Sclivving 192

146. Trianea. Original Drawing from Life l>y llcnry P. Selivving 192

147. Frogbit. (Original Drawing from Life hy l^velyn B. Innes 19.^

148. Water Fern. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by

Franklin Barrett 194

149. Water Lettuce. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing 19.S

149a. Water Chestnut. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Scliwing. . . 195

l.SO. Water Hyacintii. Original Photograph by the Author 197

LSI. Water Lily. Courtesy Henry A. Dreer, Inc 199

152. Lotus. Courtesy Henry A. Dreer, Inc ■ 201

15.^. Prizcwinning Calico Comet (ioldfish. Owned by Franklin P.arrctt. Oriy;-

inal Photograph by the Author 202

154. Prizcwinning Lionhead Goldfish. Owned by Fred. G. Schaefer. Original

Photograph by the Author 202

155. Aquatic Cut-Worm. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing 203

156. Photographing Aquarium. Original Photograph by the .\uthor 207

157. Celestial Telescope Goldfish. Original Photograph by the Author 208

L58. Cut in .\ngle Brass. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 214

159. Wooden Form. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 214

160. Wooden Breeding Tank. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 220

161. Reinforcing Steel for Pools. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey 221

162. Form for Concrete Pool. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey 221

163. Cross Section Concrete Pool. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey 222

164. Cross Section Showing Tile Insert. Original Drawing by the Autlior. . .. 223

165. Cross Section Showing Tile Insert. Original Drawing by the Author. . . . 223

166. Cross Section Showing Finishing Coat. Original Drawing 1)y the Author 223

167. Finished Pool. Original Photograph by the Author 225

168. Finished Pool In Use. Original Photograph by the Author 225

169. Queen Lil, a Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope. Owned by Franklin Bar-

rett. Original Photograph by the .Author 226

170. Net for Handling Goldfishes. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 228

171. Net for Handling Young Tropical Fishes. Original Drawing by I. A.

Bauer 228

172. Scraper for Aquarium Glass. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 228

173. Aquarium Forceps. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 229

174. Planting Stick. Original Drawing Iw J. A. Bauer 21^)

175. Aquarium Scissors. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 230

176. Breeding Jar {Side view). Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 230

177. Breeding Jar (Top viczv). Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 230

178. Spawning Net. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer 231

179. Water Circulation by Air Pressure. Original Druwiny ity J. .\. Bauer... 2i3

The gold stamp on the back of book cover
is an illustration of the Pterophyllum scalare.

242 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND

BIBLIOGRAPHY

An Account of the Fish Epidemic in Lake Mendota. S. A. Forbes, 1890

A Guide to the Study of Fishes. David Starr Jordan.

A Manual for the Study of Insects. J. H. Coinstock, 1895

A Manual of Fish Culture. U. S. Com. of Fish and Fisheries, 1900

American Fishes. G. Brown Good, 1888

American Fish Culture. Thaddeus Norris, 1868

Aquarium Fish. Dr. E. Bade.

Aquatic Insects in the Adirondacks. Jas. G. Needham, 1901

Das Siiswasser Aquarium. Dr. E. Bade.

Das Zimmer Aquarium. Dr. E. Bade.

Der Schleierschwanz und Telescopschleirschwanz, &c. Dr. E. Bade, 1900

Die ausliindischen Zierfische. Renter.

Domesticated Fish. W. L. Brind.

Entomological News

Feeding and Rearing Fishes, particularly Trout, &c. VVm. F. Page, 1895

Fish Culture. William E. Meehan.

Fish Culture on the Farm. J. J. Stranahan in Trans. Am. Fisheries Society, 1902

Fish Hatching and Fish Catching. Seth Green and R. B. Roosevelt, 1870

Fish Parasites, collected at Wood's Hole in 1898. Edwin Linton, Ph.D.

Flora of the Northern United States. Britton and Brown, 1898

Fresh-water Aquaria. Rev. G. C. Bateman, 1902

Fungi Aflfecting Fishes. Samuel Lockwood, 1890

Gas Bubble Disease of Fishes and Its Cause. F. P. Gorham, A.M., 1900.

Goldfish Breeds and Other Aquarium Fishes. H. T. Wolf, 1908

Handbook of Nature Study. A. B. Comstock

Histoire Naturelle des Dorades de la Chine. M. de Sauvigny, 1780

Histoire Naturelle des Poissons. M. le B. Cuvier and M. A. Vallencienes, 1842

Histoire Naturelle des Vegetaux Parasites. Charles Robin, 1853

Inherited Modifications in the Japanese Domesticated Golden Carp, &c. Tohn A.

Rider, 1893
Insects. Vernon L. Kellogg.

Insects; Their Structure and Life. G. H. Carpenter, 1899
Invertebrates of Massachusetts. August A. Gould, 1845
Leitfaden fiir Aquarien und Terrarienfreunde. Dr. E. Zerneckc, 1897
Life in Inland Waters. Needham and Lloyd

Modern Fish Culture in Fresh and Salt Water. Fred'k Mather, 1900
Notes on Fish Culture in Germany. S. Jaffe, 1895
Notes on the Mosquitoes of the United States. L. O. Howard, 1900
Notes on Trematode Parasites on Fishes. Edwin Linton, 1898
Notice of the Occurrence of Protozoan Parasites on Fishes in Ohio. Edwin

Linton, 1897
Observation on a Fungus infesting the Fish. G. P. Clinton, 1894
Observations on the Aquaria of the United States Fish Commission. William P.

Seal, 1890
*0n Entomostraca. Emil Weeger, 1890

On the Caudal and Anal Fins of Goldfishes. Dr. S. Watasa, 1887
Parasites. T. Spencer Cobbold, 1879

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 243

Photography of Live Fishes. R. H. Shufeldt, 1899

*Popular History of the Aquarium. G. B. Sowerhy

Praxis der Aquarienkunde. Dr. E. Bade, 1899

Praxis der Terrarienkunde. Dr. E. Bade.

Reports and Bulletins of the New York Zoological Society

Rotatoria of the United States. H. S. Jennings, 1900

Sea Shore Life: The Invertebrates of the New York Coast. A. G. Mayer

Seaside Studies in Natural History. E. C. & A. Agassiz, 1865

Some Observations concerning Fish Parasites. Edwin Linton, 1894

The Care of Goldfishes. C. H. Townsend in Bulletins of the New York Zoological

Society, 1907
The Care of Home Aquaria. R. C. Osburn

The Cultivation of Fishes in Natural and Artificial Ponds. C. IL Townsend, 1907
The Aquarium; a Brief Exposition of its Principles and Management. Wm. P.

Seal, 1887
The Aquarium. Mark Samuels, 1898
*The Aquarium. J. E. Taylor, 1876
*The Aquarium. P. H. Gosse, 1854

The Aciuarium as an aid to Biological Research. Wm. P. Seal, 1883
Tiie Aquarium of the U. S. Fish Commission at the World's Columbian Exposition.

S. A. Forbes and others, 1894
*The Book of the Aquarium. Shirley Hibberd
The Crustacea of the Fresh Waters of the U. S. Sidney Smith, 1872
The Destruction of Trout Fry by Hydra. E. A. Beardsley, 1903
The Family Aquarium or Aqua-vivarium. Henry D. Butler, 1858
The Fishes of Illinois. Forbes and Robertson.
The Fishes of New Jersey. Henry W. Fowler.
The Fishes of North Carolina (Bulletin of the N. C. Gcnlot^ical Survey).

Hugh M. Smith.
The Fish Notebook (Nature Notebook Series). George C. Embody
The Fishes of Pennsylvania. Tarleton H. Bean, 1893
The Fishes of Pennsylvania. E. D. Cope, 1881

The Fishes of North and Middle America. Jordan and Evermann. 1896
The Fish of the Fresh and Brackish Waters in the Vicinitv of Now York. Eugene

Smith, 1897
*The Fresh and Saltwater Aquarium. Rev. J. G. Wood
The Freshwater Aquarium. Eggling and Ehrenberg.
Tlie Home Aquarium and How to Care for it. Eugene Smith. 1902
The Insect Book. Leland O. Howard, 1901
The Sea-Beach at Ebb-Tide. Augusta F. Arnold, 1901
The Trematodes. H. S. Pratt. American Naturalist, 1900 and 1902
*The Vivarium. Rev. G. C. Bateman, 1893

AQUARIUM AND FISH-CULTURE PERIODICALS

Aquatic Life. Philadelphia.

Blatter fiir Aquarien und Terrarien-Kunde, Magdeburg

Bulletin. Brooklyn Aquarium Society.

Cyclopedia of American Horticulture. L. H. Bailey, 1900

Forschungsberichte aus der Biologischen Station zu Plon

*L'Acclimatation, Paris

L'Aquarium, Paris

Wochensclirift, Hamburg.

244

GOLDFISH VAEIETIES AND

CROSS INDEX

lUnsfraiions are marked by asterisk (*).

Absorption by Roots 164

Aeration 10, 110

* African Flies 158

* African Snails 11, 12

Agaves 124

*Air Pump 10

Algae 16

*Alisma 183

Aloes 124

Alphabetical List of Pishes 84-92

Ammonia Treatment 145

"Anacharis 172, 175

Animal Parasites 153

*Animalculae 141

*Asel 135

Aquarium Appliances 228

Aquarium Capacity 224

Aquarium Cements 218

Aquarium Construction 212

Aquarium Covers 14

* Aquarium Exhibition 41

* Aquarium Filter 232, 233

Aquarium Management 6

Aquarium Plants 164

* Aquarium Pump 10

* Aquarium Scissors 230

* Aquarium Scrapers 228

*Aqua-Terrarium 122

* Aquatic Cutworm 203

Author's Preface 4

*Azolla 191. 192

*Bacopa 185, 180

Barnacled Goldfish 33

*Belostoma 159,100

Bibliography 242

*Black-banded Sunlish 73

Black Fungus 148

*Black-nosed Dace 71

*Bladderwort 177

*Bloodworms 134

Breeding Goldfisli 48

*Breeding Jars 230

Brussels Netting 228

*Buffaloheaa Goldfish 34

*Cabomba 174, 175

Cacti 124

*Calico Comet 202

*Callitriche 185, 186

Cape Pond Weed 200

*Carp 82

♦Catfish 77

Capacity of Aquaria 224

*Celestial Telescope 32, 208

Cement for Aquaria 218

Ceratophyllum 176

' Ceratoi)fpris thalicfroides 194

*Chaetodon 73

*Chanchito 104

Changing Water 7

Chemical Depletion of Water 10

*Chinese Scaleless Telescope. 1 7, 30, 31, 226

* Chinese Telescope 29

*Chub 79

*Chubsucker 80

Colors in Goldfish 21

*Comet Goldfish 24, 202

^Concrete Aquarium Frontispiece

Concrete Aquaria 218

♦Concrete Forms 221

♦Concrete Pool 225

Constipation 149

Construction of Aquaria 211

Construction of Tanks and Pools 220

Consumption 150

♦Coral Snails 11, 12

♦Corixidae 158

♦Croaking Gourami 103

♦Crystalwort 191, 192

♦Cyclops 132

Cyperus Papyrus 200

♦Cypris 133

♦Daphnia 130

♦Darter 75

Dip Tube 229

Diseases of Aquai-ium Fishes 144

Diseased Marine Fishes 118

Diseases of Tropical Fishes 154

Don'ts 235

♦Dragon Fly Larva 157

Dropsy 150

♦Duckweed 191, 192

♦Dytiscus 156

♦Eel 80

♦Eel Grass 169, 170

♦Eggfish (Goldfish) 37

♦Eichhornia Crassipes 197

♦Electric Light Bug 159

♦Elodea 172, 175

Enchytrae 136

Enemies of Aquatic Plants 203

Enemies of Fishes 156

♦Eriocaulon septangulare 178

Exotic Fishes 84-92

Eye Inflammation 152

♦Fanlail Goldfish 26

Fanwort 174, 175

♦Farm Breeding Ponds 63

Feeding 7

TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES

245

Feeding Fry 57, 58

'Filter 2^2, 233

Fin Congestion 1 4G

^Finisliing Concrete Pools 223

^Fishfoods (living) 130

Fishfoods (prepared) 128

Fish Globes 1')

"Fish Lico 153

"Fish Nets 228

Flukes 154

'■Fontinalis antipyretica ..183, 184

*Fontinnlis sracilis 183. 184

* Forceps 220

Forty Don'ts 230

'Freshwater Shrimp 135

'Fringetail Goldfish 27

'Froghit 193

Gallon Capacity 224

Gallon Weight 224

*Giant Water Bug 159

Gill Congestion 151

*Golden Orfe or Ido 77

*Golden Tench 78

Goldfish 20

♦Goldfish at 2 Weeks 53

*Goldfish at G Weeks 54

*Goldfish at 3 Months 55

*Goldfish Over One Year 56

Goldfish, Age of 21

Goldfish, Age in Fancy Breeds 22

Goldfish, Early Variations 23

*Goldfish, Competitions 40

♦Goldfish, Eggs 52

Goldfish in Running Water 07

*GoIdflsh, Spawning 51

Green Tench 78

*Gyrinidao IGl

*Hair Grass 178

♦Hardshell Daphnia 133

Heat Control 107

Heating Tropical Aquaria 102

*Herb Twopence IrtO, 187

♦Herpestis 185, 186

♦Heteranthera 1 89, 190

♦Hippocampus 116, 117

♦Hippuris 186, 187

Houseleek 124

♦Hydra Kil, 162

♦Hydrachna 101

♦Hydrocanipa 203

•Hydrocharis 193

Hydronietridae 161

♦Hydroi»hilus 157, 159

Ichthyopthirius 153

♦Infusoria 57, 135

Infusoria Culture 57

Insect Enemies 156

♦Isoetes 188

Itch 149

'Japanese Spatti-rdock .

'Killifish

*Laca Plant

183

... 76

190

Larger Enemies (of fish)

162

Leeches

153

. .192, 193

Lettered Goldfish

37

Light ...

g

191

■Lionhead Goldfish

. . .3 4, 202
.... 97

230

'Ludwigia (wild)

■Mare's Tail . .

168

186 187

110

Marsh Marigold ...

200

"Medal of Aquarium Society . . . .
"Meteor Goldfish

42

38

. .180, 187

"Mosquito Larva

133

"Mosquito Eggs

. . . 133

Microscope Books

Microscope in Aquarium Work .
"Mites

142

140

161

"Moor Goldfish

Mouthbreeders

18, 34

97

"Mullet

80

"Mussels

13

70

"Xelumbiums

"Xepidae

. .200. 201
. 160

Nest Builders

95

"Nitella gracilis ...

179 180

182

♦Nymph Goldfish

Odonata

28

157

Oranda Goldfish

*()uviranda fcnestrnlis

. . . . 19U

"Paper Shelled Snail

11

Parrot's Feather

♦Photographing .'\<iuarium

Photographing Fishes

Pickerel Weed

176

207

206

200

♦Pistia stratrotes

Planting

195

14, 164

♦Planting Sticks ...

. . . 229

Plant Life

8

246

GOLDFISH VAKIETIES AKD

Plants 164

Point System of Judging 46

*Po]yacanthus dayi 104

Pond Plants 200

*Pondweed 179

*Patauiogeton 179

*Piedaceous Beetles 158

Propagation of Goldfish 48

*Quillwort 183

Kainbow Darter 76

*Red-bellied Dace 70

*Red Snail U, 12

*Red Triton 121

*Reinforced Concrete 220, 221

Riccia fluitans 191, 192

*Roach 79

*Rosysided Dace 71

*Rotifera 135

Running Water 67

Salvinia 192, 193

Sagittaria Giant 167, 170

Sagittaria montevidiensis 200

Sagittaria natans 165. 166

Sagittaria pusilla 168. 170

Sagittaria subulata 1G8. 170

Sagittaria japonica 200

Salt Treatment 144

*Sealeless Telescope Goldfish. 17, 30, 31, 226

*Scavengers 11

*Scavenger Beetles 159

*Schlammbeisser 13

*Sea Horses 116

*Seasoning Concrete Pools 224

Sex in Goldfish 48

*Shiner 79

*Shrimp (Freshwater; 135

*Shubunkin Goldfish 26

Sick Fishes 9

Sick Fishes (special attention) 145

*Silverfin 75

*Sluice 63

Soldering Aquarium Frames 216

Soldier fish 76

*Sole 81

*Spatterdock (Southern) 182

*Spatterdock (Japanese) 183

*Spawning Net 231

*Spawning Ring 50

*Spearmouth 157

*Specially Equipped Eslablishment 66

Staining Goldfish Scales 37

*Starwort 185, 186

*Sucker 78

*Sunfish 74

* Swamp Aquarium 125

Swimming Bladder Trouble 151

Tadpoles 12

*Tailless Goldfish 33

Tailrot 150

*Tench 73

Terraria 120

Testing Aquaria 15

*Thermostat 108

*Tiles in Concrete Pools 223

*Tongs 229

*Trapa natans 195

*Trianea 193

Tropical Aquaria 102

Tropical Fishes 84-92

*Tuberosa richardsoni 198. 200

*Tubifex Worms 134

Tumbler Goldfish 36

Turk's Island Salt 114, 144

Umbrella Plant 200

Utricularia 177

*Vallisneria 169, 170

*Vallisneria (Giant) 171, 172

Variegated Sweet Flag 200

Viviparous Fishes 97

*Wandering Jew 186, 187

*Washington Grass 174, 175

Water Arum 200

*Water Asel 135

*Water Boatman 158

*Water Chestnut 195

Water Drip 58

*Water Fern 194

*Water Hyacinth 196, 197

*Water Lettuce 195

*Water Lily 198

Water Lily Culture 199

Water Lily (Miniature) 200

Water Lily (Tender Day Blooming) . . . 200
Water Lily (Tender Night Blooming) . 200

Water Lily (Winter Blooming) 200

*Water Milfoil 176, 177

*Water Poppy ' 191

*Water Scorpion 160

Water Snowflake 200

*Water Strider 161

*Water Tiger 156

*Weatherfish 13

*Whirligig Beetle 161

*White Fungus 147

White Worms 136

*Wholesale Breeding 62

*Wild Anacharis 172

*WiId Ludwigia 168

Winter Storage (Goldfish) 64

Wintering Goldfish 59

Wintering Water Lillies 199

*Wooden Tanks (Construction) 219

*World's Fair Fish 27

Date Due

.pa^xAJa»-

*Mfe3iri99-7