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A GUIDE

TO

FLORICULTURE;

CONTAINING

INSTRUCTIONS TO THE YOUNG FLORIST,

FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF THE MOST POPULAR
FLOWERS OF THE DAY.

Lllustrated with @olorey Blates.

«O who that has an eye to see,
An ear to hear, a tongue to bless,
2 Can ever undelighted be
{2 With Nature’s magic loveliness.”

Sim de ¥
fi 4

_ mae = s/f
CINCINNA TE SS oF wasmnct® 7
DERBY, BRADLEY & CO.

1847.

a

a

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1846, by
T. WINTER,
In the Clerk’s Office for the District of Ohio.

PP LPP LI IO
E. SHEPARD,
S6TEREOTYPER AND PRINTER,
No. 11 Columbia Street.

Fa a
co Ses: *
= i J

*

Tan
as, 7

PREFACE.

In presenting the following pages to the public, I
consider it incumbent upon me to state the reasons
which have induced their publication in the present
form. |
Most of the chapters in this work were written, at

- leisure moments, fora Horticultural Magazine, for-

merly published in this place. That work having
been for a long time suspended, many of my female
friends have solicited me to publish them in the form
of a book. In compliance with their solicitations I
have been induced to collect and arrange them, to-
gether with additional matter, in the hope of thereby
furnishing a work that might be useful to those am-

- ateur florists who possess more taste for Floriculture

than knowledge of the principles and practice by
which it should be directed. I have endeavored, ac-
cording to the best of my humble ability, to make
the subject as intelligible, and to present its promi-
nent principles encumbered with as few difficulties

or embarrassments, as possible.

iV PREFACE.

In getting up this work no expense or trouble has
been spared, either in the letter-press, the binding, or
in procuring colored engravings of the highest char- .
acter, to make it suitable, as well for a parlor as a
pocket, companion.

A Glossary, carefully compiled from the best bo-
tanical works, has been added, which, it is believed,
will be found brief, comprehensive, and well adapted
to the instruction of the young amateur.

Not being a professed Botanist, I may have com-
mitted some errors in the botanical descriptions ; but
I trust that if it be so, they will be fownd to be of so
trivial a nature as not materially to impair the value
of the work.

Under these circumstances I beg the indulgence of
my readers, hoping that my humble efforts to facili-
tate their progress in Floriculture may not be consid-
ered unworthy of their favorable regard.

A

GUIDE T0 FLORICULTURE.

GARDENING.

‘No tale of passion have I to breathe,
Yet, gentle reader, I fain would wreaths
A floral garland, whose leaves shall be
Emblems and tokens of love and thee.
. Fiowers!—they bloom by thelowliestcot—
May they gladden, and brighten, and bless thy lot.”

Gardening is founded on natural philosophy, and the least
economical principle in its study of course informs the mind
into the nature and truth of the culture of flowers, and we
then discover the habit of those plants we wish to cultivate
with success. Where nature has not endowed the mind
with a natural taste for the physiological principles of the
cuiture of flowers, it is time lost by endeavoring to ac-
quire it. :

‘6 What then, is taste, but those internal powers,

-» Active and strong, and feelingly alive

To each fine impulse? a discerning sense

Of decent and sublime, with quick disgust
From things deformed, or disarranged, or gross
In species? This, nor gems, nor stores of gold,
Nor purple state, nor culture, can bestow:

| But God alone, when first his active hand

er Imprints the sacred bias of the soul.”

6 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

Where taste really does exist, there is-a manifold plea-
sure to the mind that serves tu preserve the human life
more essentially than appears to the common observer.
This may appear strange ; but when we reflect on the sol-
ace the mind undergoes at leisure moments, even to the
business man —the evenness created in the temper — the
pleasurable change he experiences after the pursuit of busi-
ness —all tend to create in the mind that which it stands
in need of, a blissful feeling, an incentive that keeps the body
in health and vigor. ‘The occupancy of Gardening after
the business of the day is over, if not thus passed, would be
in luxury or temporary pleasure which weuld only debili-
tate the mind and constitution. That part of Gardening
which relates to the culture of plants is of easy manage-
ment, and does not require the skill so generally supposed
or bestowed on them. Many plants are killed by kindness,
when it should be bornein mind that plants, like the human
family, require a state of rest, therefore should not be kept
always in a growing state. For instance, a person deprived
of his natural rest becomes eventually unfit for his avoca-
tion; not only that, he must live regular, or he will never
be vigorous or of a healthful habit. Plants are living
things; nature has not endowed them with speech, itis true ;
still, by watching them close, there are certain signs in
their appearance so apparent that will convince the cultiva-
tor that, if not treated correct in their habit, a different sys-
tem must be adopted. ‘Therefore, to come as near nature
as possible, our understanding should teach us that plants in
pots should be repotted into fresh soil in their season; that
is, when in a state of rest, and be watered only when grow-
ing, to make them healthy, and the soil should be as near

GARDENING. 7

thal as we can possibly find to suit their natural habit; by
doing this we make them healthy, and perform the function
‘so desirable in them to flower well. This is the business of
_ the amateur to see to, and may be considered their food and
rest, without which no science in Gardening can prosper.
Gardening, as amusement, is certainly one of the most
pleasing recreations in existence, possessing novelty, and en-
thusiasm, and is food to the human mind which softens the
passions, meliorates the understanding, and adds days of
happiness to that period of our existence which our Maker
has blessed us with. The mind is filled with a pleasing
excitement, even in the attamment of a new plant, thus
giving to science an opportunity of still increasing those
pleasures so desirable. The diffusion of a useful knowledge
in Gardening is also communicative from one person to
another, making our condition as natural beings, more
commanding, and developing our ideas as they expand, and
more influential in the path of life, even to the most humble
part of vegetable physiology. ‘Fhere has been, in most
works published, a mystery on the subject of Gardening
and the propagation of plants; for why, may it be asked,
has this dogmatical system predominated so long? This
cannot be answered unless the whole system has been con-
_ fined too much to certain classes of men who, instead of
endeavoring to create a taste for flowers, have been more
studious to check floriculture, unmindful, at the same time,
that the more converts gained to the system of Gardening
the more plants would be sold by them. The knowledge
of cultivating is now becoming better known; indeed, the
whole art is in a state of revolution; we cannot turn to any
place but we see some of the most beautiful gems of Flora

3 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

almost at every house. ‘Tis is as it should be; ladies will
find a solace to their minds in their leisure hours that could
not be better employed.

In regard to gardeners in general, in this country, the
major part are self-taught: a reflection on this particular
subject alone ought to encourage those possessing a natural
taste for the science, that the arr is attainable; this will
better enable any to cultivate with a prospect of success.
The Scotch gardeners are considered the best in Europe;
we seldom find an English gardener, on his arrival in this
country, capable of conducting a green-house as it should
be done. This leads a person to suppose that those erotics
are only employed in the drudgery of weeding in their na-
tive country, and when here wish to pass for bona fide gar-
deners; indeed, most of the experienced English gardeners
find their knowledge of cultivation in this country deficient,
as the difference of clime and soil varies materially to what
they were accustomed to; but a scientific man will soon
discover the difference and alter his mode, if not too old in
his fixed principles or prejudice.

There are other sciences attached to gardening that
makes the system more complete, which is understood but
partially in practice, and not at all in theory. I allude to
Botany, that part which relates to plants; it is a branch
that ought to be studied, as it leads the mind to a thorough
knowledge of the distinct species of plants, their properties,
sexes, order, and indeed the whole system, The ground-
work of this science leads the mind to a knowledge of ma-
ny important particulars in relation to flowers. To know
how to anatomize flowers is particularly interesting to the
mind of the cultivator, though not absolutcly necessary.

GARDENING. 9

Study begets refinement, is obvious, and knowledge is essen-
tial to the human mind; the food thus created begets
friends who seek for information. Thus we find a pleasure
in diffusing that usefulness we may attain by a little study.
There are but few Florists that are Botanists. ‘This may
appear strange, but it is an incontrovertable fact, when both
could be studied at leisure moments without interfering with *
each other; and if florists understood the fundamental prin-
ciples of botany many errors could be corrected that are now
extant, as the practical botanist is sometimes arbitrary in his
rules, which is out of the power of the florist to correct. —
Chemistry is another branch highly essential to the art of
gardening, which will be understood in a general point of
view before many years elapse. ‘The farming elass will
find it necessary to know the quality of soil he makes use of
to ensure success in his department, as well as the practical
gardener. tis not my object to crowd the mind of the
young amateur in the art of Gardening, or its requisites, for
it is simple and can be managed without understanding the
theory of botany or chemistry. I only point out the great
desideratum of a valuable acquisition to the mind if these
theories could be attained. EXducated to those sciences the
mind would be elevated above the condition that falls to
the lot of practical gardeners, and the field of science would
be open to discover things the mind does not now con-
template.

10 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

PLANTS.

“‘T have sweet thoughts of thee!
They come around me like the voice of song;
They come like birds that in the south belong,
And wear a gayer wing, and brighter crest,
Than those that on the roof-tree build the nest
They come more tender, beautiful, and bright,
Than any thoughts that others can excite.”

Plants are divided and known as Annuals, Biennials,
and Perennials. Annuals are such as flower the first sea-
son, ripen its seed, and then its functions cease to exist.
Of this class of flowering plants we have some very beau-
tiful to decorate the flower garden, at the same time some
of the most worthless. ‘T'o poiut out any particular variety
would be usurping the pen in a delicate cause, as the mer-
its of Flora’s beauties are as various as people’s tastes ; for
there are no flowers, however humble, but what possess
some intrinsic beauty ; but the eye that admires one may
dislike another, and that baneful one may be interesting to
another person. Annuals are a class of flowers indispensi-
ble to the flower garden; their seeds should be sown in
March and April; much depends on the season and when
wanted to flower. Some annuals will not bear removing,
but the generality should be removed, when small, for seed-
lings; the sooner removed, after out of the seed-leaf, the
better, for when the root-fibres are small the seedlings do
not feel their removal so sensibly as when large. Then
again in the arrangement of plants their different colors and
height must be guided by fancy; but to contrast their col-

- PLANTS. il

ors gives them a pleasing effect. The Balsam, China As-
ters, Petunias, and many others are suitable for pot culture
as well as the open ground; these annuals will always be
favorites with the lover of good flowers. ‘There are many
annuals that aré climbers: those should be transplanted
where they wiil show to the best advantage while in flower.
There are not less than one thousand annuals in cultivation,
and the list still increasing; but of late there has not been
many worthy of cultivation added to them, and if one half
of the presentnumber were discarded there would be enough
left then. From the numerous lists published in the cata-
logues the amateur must judge for himself in his selection,
and by sowing seeds at different periods would enable him
to have annuals nearly all the year round.

Biennials are those that flower the second year, ripen
their seeds, and then cease to exist. This class of flowers
are decidedly ornimental and consist of a numerous family,
still not so extensive as annuals, but generally considered
more valuable for their exterior beauty-and usefulness in
the flower garden. There are some biennials that flower
the first year, but generally they do not before the second,
The biennials do not require their seeds sown so early as
annuals. Amongst them are many florist flowers which
may be preserved for years by cuttings or slips from shoots
that have no flower buds on them. Biennials are divided
into classes, such as hardy, half hardy, and tender. The
proper time to sow their seeds, like annuals, will depend on
circumstances; some so soon as ripe, that is, when they
flower early, and seed ripens in the early part of July, such
as the Sweet William, and a few others. The general
sowing should be in April and May; when of sufficient

12 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

size transplanted out to gain strength, and the tender varie-
ties should be potted off in September and housed before the
frost sets in; the next season some of the choicest may be
increased by cuttings and slips. Biennials, as well as other
plants require a good rich loam.
Perennials.—In regard to this class of flowers they are
obtained from seed the same as the two former, will never
flower until the second year, but instead of ceasing to exist
as soon as done flowering, generaliy increase at the root,
thus making a perpetual flowering plant. Many suppose
that the perennial sends up the same stem every season ;
this is not the case; the-old stem ceases to exist, this gives
room for the increase of the root at a more or less given
distance from the original stem; and this freak of nature
makes it easily divided and constitutes a perpetual plant.
Perennials are divided into two classes, herbaceous and
shrubby; the first may be divided agam mto bulbous, tu-
berous, and fibrous. The process of increasing them dif
fers materially; the bulbous by offsets and seeds, shrubby
by cuttings, seeds, layermmgs, and slips. The herbaceous
perennial bulbs include our favorites, such es the Tulip,
Crown Imperial, Hyacinth, Lilies, Crocuses, &c. ‘These
should be taken ap every season when the foliage dies
down, and be replanted again in another part of the garden
between the months of August and December. ‘Fhe tube-
rows perennials compose our finest collections of plants;
some should be removed every season, while others should
ke allowed to remain three years. ‘Fhe Phloxs, Lupins,
Asters, Peonies, and many others should be divided every
three years, as the nature of the plants will indicate by their
growth and disposition, and planted ix vituations corres.

~ =e

PLANTS, 13

ponding to their natural habit, in season of blooming, &c.,
the tallest in the back ground, and endeavor to make them
contrast in color and be as much diversified as possible.
It is the practice of many to flower bulbs by themselves,
such as the Tulip, Hyacinth, &c.; this is certainly a good
plan when the collection is large. Bulbs show to good ad-
vantage in the border with other plants, but when inter-
spersed with other flowers cannot be always removed when
required without disturbing other plants; when this is the
case it would be best to top-dress the border and let them
remain two or three years, and they will flower well and
cause but little trouble, and be still ornamental. Hardy
shrubby perennials do not die down, but retain their habit,
and many varieties their leaves; these are called ever-

greens, and are propagated by seeds, and some few by lay-

ering. The double flowering herbaceous perennials will
not seed freely and must be increased by cuttings or divid-
ing the root in the fall. Fibrous rooted, such as the Car-
nation and its tribe, more by layering than by seed, and
sometimes by cuttings and slips. ‘Take the perennials m
general they merit more care than is generally bestowed on
them, being easily managed (with the exception of some
exotics), and propagated, affording us some of the most mag-
nificent flowers in cultivation. If the perennials do not

flower from seed the first season that should be no draw-

back, we should bear it in mind that when once flowered
we may consider them perpetual, and those hardy require
little or no care afterward, which is a great desideratum in
a large or small garden, when time is an object to a business
person. |

we

14 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

THE HOT-BED.

¢: Think’st thou to be concealed, thou little sEED
That in the bosom of the earth art cast,
And there, like cradled infant, sleep’st awhile,
Unmoved by trampling storm or thunder blast?
Thou bid’st thy time; for herald Spring shall come
And wake thee, all unwilling as thou art.
Unhood thine eyes, unfold thy clasping sheath,
And stir the languid pulses of thy heart;
The loving rains shall woo thee, and the dews
Weep o’er thy bed, and e’re thou art aware
Forth steals the tender leaf, the wiry stem,
The trembling bud, the flower that scents the air,
And soon, to all, the ripened fruitage tells
The evil or the good that in nature dwells.”

The hot-bed is necessary sometimes to force seeds and
plants early in the spring; this plan is seldom resorted to
by the amateur, as it requires some experience in the man-
agement. It may not be the good fortune of lovers of
choice flowers to live in a city where market gardeners re-
side that are in the habit of making hot-beds annually; it
will be necessary to give some directions on the subject.
To those living in a city more practical knowledge may be
gleaned by seeing one made than could be gained by pre-
cept. However, to those wishing to make a hot-bed it will
be necessary to provide a cart-load of fresh manure from a
stable; nearly one haif should be straw and hay, what ia
commonly called long litter by gardeners; the whole should
be laid in a heap for about a weekto ferment, and must be
protected from rain; then turn it over, the next day the

THE HOT-BED, _ 15

same, shaking it well so as to mix the outside with the
other ; on the third day the manure will be fit to proceed
with, the manure having exhausted all the rank heat cre:
ated in the fermentation; this is termed meliowing, and pre-
vents the liability of anaes the plants. Cne load will be
quite enough for a frame three feet by four.

In forming the bed it will be necessary to drive a stake
to form each corner, the size of the bed which should be
five feet by six, this would be one foot wider than your
frame every way. The outlines being formed, commence
laying on the manure in layers, shaking and mixing-it well
with the litter as you proceed, and beating it down with
the fork evenly, so that the top will be perfectly level; when
your bed is complete, it will be about three feet high; then
take your frame and place it in the middle, and lay manure
all reund the frame to near the top, to do which you must
reserve enough for the purpose; the object of this is to cre-
ate all the warmth possible inside of the frame; then put on
the sash, aad when you discover the heat arise, which will
be exemplified by the steam on the glass, begin to lay on
the earth in the frame to the depth of four inches, observing
that the soil be not wet, or your bed may receive too great
a check to answer your purpose, and not return again.
This done you can sow your seeds in the soil or pans made
for the purpose ; pans are more desirable as no risk will be
run in having your seedlings burnt, as the pans can be
placed on top of the soil, and as the heat begins to subside
the pans can be sunk to the rims. The heat of a hot-bed
should not exceed 60 Fahrenheit for flower seeds. It wili
be necessary to examine the degree of heat in the morning .
if higher than 60 the sash must be raised a little to give

16 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

vent to the surplus steam to prevent accident. In the day
time it may be necessary to shade the young plants or give
air when the heat of the sun is great, as your bed must be
due south for the benefit of the morning sua, and a dry sit-
uation is requisite. The glass must be covered with boards
or mats at night to keep out the frost; in three weeks the
heat of the bed will be diminished; then take away the
manure round the sides of the frame and replace it with
fresh ; this will renew the heat for some time longer} or
you can make another bed alongside; by doing so consid-
erable heat will be conveyed into the first, thus receiving
the benefit and use of two frames if necessary. Unless the
arnateur has had some experience in flowers it would be
advisable to make a hot-bed of tanners bark, which can be
done in the following manner. Sink a frame in the ground
about three feet, then procure a load of fresh tanners bark,
which should be put under a shed and be turned over often
until dry, then fill the pit to within six inches of the top for
seed, which must be sown in pans, which should be sunk to
the rim; then place the glass ever and manage the same as
the other hot-bed. There will be no danger of burning the
plants, as the heat arising from the bark is gentle and will
last much longer than one made of stable manure. Plants
that require bottom heat to start them must be so managed
as not to interfere with the glass, cr the steam and sua will
disfigure them. .

SS. oo he

SEED-SOWING. 17

. SEED-SOWING.

s* Come, ye soft sylphs! who sport on Latian land,
Come, sweet-lipped Zephyr, and Favoneous bland,
oa, Touch-the fine seed,-instinct with life, to shoot
.On earth’s cold bosom its descending root;
With pith elastic stretch its rising sterh ;
Part the twin lobes, expand the throbbing germ,
Clasp in your airy arms the aspiring plume,
Fan with your balmy breath its kindling bloom,
Each widening scale and bursting film unfold,
Swell the green cup, and tint the flower with gold;
While in bright veins the silvery sap ascends,
And refluent blood in milky eddies bends;
While spread in air the leaves respiring play,
Or drink the golden quintessence of day.”

_ This operation is generally performed early in the spring,
and it is absolutely necessary, in the first piace to prepare
the gtound to make it suitable for their reception, in doing
which it should be observed that in turning up the soil in
the spring for that purpose, never dig but half spade deep,
for the soil in the spring is cold, and for that purpose is deep
enough ; if deeper it would have-a tendency to chill and
rot your seed. ‘That part of the soil turned up should be
well pulverized to encourage their growth; another thing,
neither should the soil be too dry or too moist, the one be-
ing as detrimental as the other; though if dry could in
some measure be counterbalanced with the watering-pot.
The state of the soil will depend in a great measure on the
time; if early it is most likely to be damp. If the soil be
dry after sowing the seed, ne it a gentle watering to pre-

te

>...

~

18 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

vent the wind separating the seed from the soil, which will
happen sometimes without this precaution. If the soil he
damp nothing more is required than lightly covering the
seed by raking the soil over them.

The depth required for seeds depend on the size; some
are so minute that tocover them they would never come up,
prebably rot, while some would lie dormant for years, until
turned up to near the surface, and then germinate. In
sowmeg seeds they should be watered sparingly, for if the
seeds be old, which is often the case, you will rot them;
therefore it is necessary to be cautious in the use of that
element. To water seed often with the view to make them
come up quick, which is often done, is not judicious; it is
the best, enerally, that is the longest in germinating; we
find this to be the case with the Auricula, and most
couble varieties, the Balsam for instance. The first and
early sceds that germinate are the strongest, however desir-
zble at the time, generally prove the most imdifierent flow-
ers, and in most cases single. Those that have been in the
habit of sowing and raising seedlings must observe this, and
will give their friends the best and strongest plants. ‘There
does not appear so much advantage gained in early sowing
of garden flower seeds as is attributed:to it, for those sown
the middle of March will flower about the same time as
those sown two. weeks earlier, unless forced and kept in the
hot-bed; those sown early in the open ground are often eut
off in the seed leaf by the early frost, which is the most
precarious time for seedlings.

There are many annuals that do best if the seed be sown
in the fall and slightly protected through the winter, such
as Phlox Drummondii, Rocket Larkspur, Flos Adonis,

SEED-SOWING. 19

Calliopsis, and many others. If a person has the conven-
ience of a pit or frame to protect them the advantage would
be great; stronger plants, larger flowers, and better seeds
would be the result. For those that prefer sowing early
seed it would be a good plan to have a box made for the
purpose, to be covered with glass; a light 8 by 10 would
be a good size, and would protect seedlings from all danger
of being cut off by early frost; or the seed may be sown in
pots and be covered with wigs though this plan would be
more troublesome than the box. There are some seedlings
that will not bear removing very well; we see this in the
Poppy tribe; such should not be sown before the last of
March, and then where intended to flower.

It must be obvious that planting seed in the ground must
be preferable, and covering them with a small frame with
glass, for less attention will be required; and if the spring
should be wet it would more likely save them from rotting,
which, if fully exposed, would be the case; or if a dias
spring, would receive much nourishment from the ground.
Sew some seed the beginning of March, and again the mid-
dle; by this means you may save a few plants of each, or
if those sown first fail, the latter may succeed. Annuals
generally do not require to be covered deep, excepting the

- large kinds, such as the Lupin, Pea, &c.; if sown near the
surface, the soil being warm and receiving the direct rays
of the sun, will more essentially assist the seeds to germi-
nate, for light and due moisture is necessary to their growth;
andif too deep, it deprives them of the = prinel-
ples necessary to make them living plants. A seedling
that has forced its way through deep soil is naturaily weak-
ened, consequently more likely to be destroyed by early

20 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

frost than if near the surface. After a plant is out of the
seed leaf it wilt withstand a heavy frost; this is one impor-
tant fact and to be observed until plants are safe. Plants
are frequently raised in hot-beds; this is generally done
when the amateur has gained experience, and then is adopt-
ed only to bring forward choice seeds or scarce plants.
When your seedlings are ready for transplanting the soi
will be in a fit state to dig one spade deep, which should be
done to enable the root-fibres to find their way into the
ground. |

To force seed a solution of todine, chlorine, &c., is gene-
rally considered good for that purpose when difficult to veg-
etate. To make a solution of one sixtreth part of water to
chlorine of lime to steep the seed in, will certainly accele-
rate their growth. Half an ounce of muriate of ammenia to
one gallon of water, and applied to seed sown every sixth
time of watering, will make them germinate very quick;
by such chemical stimuli many valuable seeds are made to
grow, and some of the finest plants may be obtained by this
means, as the best seeds are so difficult to germinate, par-
ticularly as the seed pods producing double flowers are
generally supposed to be diseased.

Light is another agency necessary in the germination
and health of seeds and plants, though not in the earliest
stage; if seedlings drawn up are sickly can it be expected
that they will produce good flowers? certainly not! It is
only advisable to force such seeds as are difficult, and the
forcing agencies to be used should be applied with caution.
Then again it will be found that covering seeds with glass
has a tendency to force them; the color of the glass is
also another powerful agency in stimulating them; purple

SEED-SOWING, 21

‘ind violet are the best colors. This will also apply to cut-
tings; a bell glass of either color is preferable to white, for
the light forced through the prism is separated into differ-
ent colors, and experience has proven that glass possesses
the most powerful chemical action in promoting seed to
germinate. As I said before, in the first stage of germina-
tion, light is not so essential, though if sown too deep of
course the light is too much excluded and the necessary
nourishment is exhausted before the seed could reach the
light; therefore deprives the function se essential from per-
forming the development of leaves, which are indispens ible
to the production of roots, and often perish or remain dor-
mant; turning over the ground often brings the seed with-
in the desired range, and the pumuli ascending reaches the
light and germination takes place —growth is best promot-
ed when covered with glass. The influence of light and
moisture then preserves uniformity more congenial.
_ M. Chevreal, a French chemist, has demonstrated many
interesting facts in regard to colors contrasted and their ef-
fects. There has been some experiments made in England
In regard to colored glass, and it is proven there that violet
and blue are called chemical rays; green and yellow, lu-
minous; red, caloric or heating rays. ‘The illustrations are
not Gitsctly correct. Light penetrating through colored
glass partakes, in some respect, of the character of the rays
corresponding with the colors of the glass; as blue admits
of the chemical rays to the exclusion of nearly all others;
yellow admits only the permeate of the lummous rays;
that red glass cuts the rays of heat which passes freely. By
this means it appears that plants could be raised under al-
| most any light wished for; while yellow and red are de-

>
“ape

aa

2S A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

structive to germination, for instance, if a pan ot seeds ba
sown and covered with glass, one half with red and yellow
laid one on the other the seed would not germinate, while
the other half being covered with violet the seed would ger-
minate quick; reverse the glass and the result would be the
seed would come up, and those up on the other half would
cease to grow. ‘This im some measure corresponds with
seeds sown on-the surface and exposed to the sun will not
vegetate, for a portion of the sun-light which produces the
organs of light diffusing its warmth, is destructive to the
first process of the vegetation of seed, but if removed into
the shade or darkened vegetation then commences. ‘These
experiments are worthy of notice, and may prove of use to
those fond of experiments. It was attributed to Mr. Hunt
as the first person that tried these experiments on the ger-
mination of seeds with colored glass, in 1840. I find the
late Dr. Morechini, of Rome, made the same in 1838. ‘The
_ late professor of Botany is entitled to the credit of his re-
searches.

TRANSPLANTING.

Transplanting is the art of removing seedlings from the
nursery-bed into the open ground; this operation is easier
effected in the spring than at any other time through the
year, as the spongiolis of seedlings will strike fresh root
easier. Transplantmeg should be done after a shower or in.
a cloudy day towards evening, and great care should be

TRANSPLANTING. 23

taken in removing them to take with them as much soil as
will adhere to the roots; then. make a hole to receive the
plant, place it in, pouring some water to wash the fibres
down, then close the hole round the plant; by adopting
this plan, instead of watering after, as formerly done, the
plant does not feel so great a check. It is almost impossi-
ble to transplant without doing some little injury ; this will
be clearly seen by their drooping appearance for several
days after removal; then a reaction takes place, and the
plants become vigorous and need no more attention. Some-
times plants removed will require shading when the weath-
er becomes warm and dry; to counterbalance this drawback
the plants must also be watered every evenirg until suffi-
ciently recovered. .Balsams, China Asters, and a few other
fall flowering plants do best planted into thumb (one anda
half inch) pots and kept in the shade until well established,
and then transplanted into the open ground without diffi
cultyin the driest weather, for when the weather is dry

seedlings become too large to remove, by waiting for moist

3

weather their spongioles will be so abundant and large as
to endanger their removal; but if placed, when small, inio
small pots and kept in the shade, these difficulties would be
avoided. When about to remove seedlings observe never
to replant them deeper in the ground than they were in the
nursery-bed. It is a common practice, when plants are
drawn up through bad management, to place them deeper
for appearance sake; but following two wrong courses will
still make it worse. Plants gererally establish themselves
the regtlar way in the ground, and in transplanting this
should be borne in mind; if drawn up they will do better
replanted in conformity to their growth, and do better than

a

24 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

if planted deeper for the sake of appearance. Young plants
the sooner removed the better after out of the seed leaf, pro-
vided the weather be favorable. Seeds will keep several
years with care, with some exceptions. ‘The China Aster
will not keep well over one year; the vitality of most, if
kept dry, will germinate in due season, unless the weather
should be such as to place it beyond the contral of the ama-
teur; but his assiduity will do much in assisting nature in
her developments. | 7 :

MANURING AND POTTING.

There appears to be a great diversity of opinion on the
subject of manuring; to point out the existing difference
would only perplex the amateur in his operations in flori-
culture; indeed, it would take an experienced chemist to
elucidate the subject thoroughly. The word manure is
generally applied to what is taken from stables, whethor
horse or cow excrements, mixed with straw and other litter ;
such is not always the case. Manure, in gardening, is
meant to convey the idea to enrich and fertilize the soil in
the garden; still it must be observed what is food for one
kind of soil is not so for another; therefore there is a great
difference in manure. If the soil be a mar] then the ap-
plication of sand would constitute a manure to make it fri-
able, that is, suitable to receive plants. There are other
kinds that would make the soil useful, which none but a
chemist can tell by analyzing it. Horse and cow manures’

MANURING AND POTTING. 95

od

are good stimulants for the growth of plants in common
garden soil, but in no case should it be used unless three
years old, or your soi! will be filled with weeds. To ma-
nure a garden will require some judgment: to manure the
same soil every season is as bad as no manure at all; chang-
ing the crop is preferable, as some seed will deteriorate
more than others; for instance the Rocket Larkspur never
ought to be sown in the same bed two seasons in succession.
It will frequently happen by over manuring the garden the
soil becomes black, and many suppose the soil extremely _
rich when it is the reverse; so much manure being laid on
the soil the water becomes saturated in the soil as to make
it so sterile that plants cannot exist in it. When such is
the case it will be necessary to use lime as a manure to
counteract the humec aced contained in the soil, caused by
the superfluous use of the stable manure. Manure from the
stable should never be used with lime, as one destroys the
effect of the other, nor until it has been regularlyfermented.

Stable manure is required more plentifully for pot cult-
ure, as the frequent watering of the plants in pots will nat-
urally wash the substance from the plants; the frequent
watering of pot plants also.makes it indispensible to shift
the soil often; this is termed repotting which 1s performed
once or twice a year, and the best time to effect this is
spring and fall, and the best soil for that purpose is a maid-
en soil. This is a term used by gardeners, and can be ab-
tained from the commons or old meadows by taking off the
turf, then dig three or four inches below; this will consti-
tute maiden soil, and if inclined to clay add a small portion
of sand.

Some plants require a richer soil than others; when that

26 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

is the case the addition of old cow manure will do. Differ-
ent locations will make a difference in soil, also in growth
of plants; and in potting plants where you find the soil stiff
and binding, always add sand to correct that fault. ‘There
are different soils used by gardeners, such as: peat earth, a
vegetable matter decayed, and can be passed through a
sieve. Peat bog is such as generally is found in swamps.
Sandy loam is loam with a portion of sand in it, and is what
is mostly used for general culture. Sandy soil is effected
by adding more sand to the sandy loam. Vegetable
mould is decayed vegetables and weeds collected in the gar-
den, and thrown in a heap to rot for three years. Garden
mould or loam is such as does not containany sand. Clay
soil is not good unless you mix different manures to make
it friable, and then not good for pot plants. Leaf mould is
composed entirely of decayed leaves, and when mixed with
sand is a most excellent soil for pot culture.

In potting plants it is essential in all cases to have a soe
drainage by placing one inch (much depends on the size of
the pot) of pieces of broken pots or small pieces of brick at
the bottom to prevent any deleterious effects to the plants if
over-watered. In potting plants never over-pot, that is,
never place a piant in a pot that is too large; a small pot
will force more flowers from a plant than a large one. It
frequently occurs in pot plants that roots and suckers wili
rise from the soil, ran some distance and root again. It
must not be infered that this arises from the plant being in
too small a pot; for instance the Achimenes and Chrysan.
themum. ‘The general supposition is, the soil being dete-
riorated the roots rise te seek nourishment, and when it is
attained will strike root again. We have an every day oc

yy

MANURING AND POTTING. az

enrrence of this in the garden rose, which, if allowed to re-
main in ene place many years, will shove their suckers some
distance; the original tree for want of nourishment, the soil
being exhausted, will perish; and so it will be found with

pot plants if the soil be not changed by some chemical pro-

cess, and that generally is effected by manure. When the
soil is congenial to plants the nutricious sap accumulates,
and the plant grows vigorously so long as there remains a
sufficiency of food in the soil; but when exhausted we find
the plant using its functions to escape from its deleterious
soit if that be impossible, and if not repoited the conse-
guence will be death, for the leaves cannot imbibe the gas-
es of the surrounding atmosphere when the roots are sickly,
as the one is dependent on the other. :

CUTTINGS, &C.

This is an easy way of propagating the different varieties
of our fine and most beautiful species of plants that decorate
the parlor. There are different methods of striking cut-
tings, and different seasons that are more congenial for that
accomplishment. It is not material which way the object
be obtained so long as the wltimatum be gained. Some
propagators will adhere to the system they have found suc-
cessful. However, as my object is to instruct the young
amateur, I will not discuss this or that system, but exhibit
to their comprehension as simple a plan as possible, although
not a new one. It will be found in experience that succur

28 A QUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

lent plants are the most easy to strike root; the harder the
wood the more difficult. In striking cuttings one thing
must be adhered to, as much depends on the manner of pre-
paring the cuttings; for unless cut close to the joimt there
is not much dependence to be placed in the success of the
undertaking, for the bud that you cut close to, when insert
ed in the soil, attracts fluid which it feeds on; this elon-
gates downward and becomes roots, for it is necessary by
nature it should be so before the plant can be established ;
thus making a perfect plant, the same as the parent from
which the cutting wastaken. As the roots become set, the’
cutting sends forth branches, then the root and leaf become
mutually dependent upon each other for support and life.
The time of taking cuttings is from early spring till fall ; dif-
ferent plants require their proper time for propagation ; for
instance, the best month for the Rose is June, when the young
wood is sufficiently ripe ; herbaceous plants as soon as done
flowering, though for some it will be necessary to take their
flower stems before developing the flowers. It would oc-
cupy too much space to specify the proper time for all the
varieties; but each treatise of this work will exhibit enough
for any beginner to commence with, leaving the balance to
his own experience.

The best way to strike cuttings of hard wooded shrubs is
to procure a box or pan about twelve inches across and the
same in depth; then get another about four inches withouta
hole in the bottom, which may be easily obtained of a potter ;
placing part of a brick in the larger to keep the smaller one
on a level with it in the centre, then fill the vacancy with
fine leaf mould and sand in equal parts, well incorporated ;
this done, insert the cuttings up to the second joint, close to

CUTTINGS. Q9

the small pot; be particular that the bottom of the cuttings

comes in contact with the sides, for cuttings of every descrip-
tion will strike root more readily by the side than if planted
in the middle of the soil. When your cuttings are all in,
fill the small pot with water, which, if kept full, will suffi-
ciently feed the cuttings without watering in any other way,
and they will not be killed by too much moisture. In the
usual method of setting cuttings in the soil, and watering
them, they are very apt to be killed by over moisture ; but to
set them in the manner recommended, and covering them
with a bell glass, which should be taken off occasionally for
a short time, too great a degree of dampness would be pre-
vented, and your cuttings would generally thrive. It is re-
quisite in setting cuttings of any description to keep them
shaded from the sun; and in the fall when they have
taken sufficient root, which can be ascertained by lifting the
small pot, they should be potted off into two inch pots, with
a rich sandy loam, and remain in them until the following
spring.

Succulent plants being easier raised by cuttings, may ba
set in the following way :—get a pot or box like the oné
above recommended, and fill it with a composition of leaf
mould and sand, then gently water it; take a bell glass and
mark its size by pressing it on the soil, then set the cuttings
up to the middle joint, having previously prepared them the
same as recommended for hard wooded cuttings, then gently
water the whole to settle the soil round them; when the
leaves are dry put on the glass. Whenever you water cut-
tings, be sure and never cover them while the leaves are

wet if you wish to succeed. When you find cuttings be- —

gin to grow, then begin to admit air to harden them. In

— ae

30 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

striking cuttings that are more difficult than others, resource
should be had to the bark bed. E:xperience will teach
more on that subject than I could explain in any treatise .

Budding.—The difference between budding and striking
by cuttings im one respect amounts to one thing the increase
of desirable plants; the one conveys the roots to the ground,
while the other is essentially employed in engrafting itself
by uniting to the stem of another, and all action of atmos-
pheric air must be excluded to ensure success; to accom-
plish this, it will be necessary to examine the bark when it
parts freely, which is about July or August,which is the
time to: perform the operation.

The best stock to bud the Rose on is the Boursalt ; when
ready to perform the eperation, cut the bark across and
down: in the shape of T, with a budding knife, then lay it
open from the cress down, separating the bark from the
wood with as much ease as possible; then take the bud in-
tended to be inserted which must be cut about a quarter of
an inch above and below the axle of the leaf through a por-
tion of the wood, which must be separated from the bark,
and inserted in the part separated, commencing at the cross
and slipped down as far as possible, between the bark, with-
out injuring the leaf bud, then take a piece of bass matting
about a quarter of an inch wide, previously dipped into wa-
ter to strengthen it, and bind the wound close, leaving the
eye only exposed, and in six weeks, if the bud has taken,
slacken the bandage a little and cut the stalk off within two
eyes of the bud; by this means the inserted bud will receive
enough sap to: keep it in a living condition until spring.
When the bud begins to push, cut off the balance above

) . . C
Pea es

CUTTINGS. 31

the bud. Budding is preferable to grafting for the Rose,
and is much practised by Florists, as every eye will make
a tree; by this process the most scarce species of the Rose
may be propagated faster than by any other method, and
sent to all parts of the world. It will also be found by ex-
perience‘that some varieties of the Rose succeed better by
being budded on another stock than on its own; we have
an instance of this in the white Bath Moss and the yellow
Persian Rose.

WATERING OF PLANTS.

Watering of plants is one of the most essential operations
to be performed, and easily done; but being done correctly
is quite another thing, for to water plants correctly is one of
the principal means of invigorating them, and lies at the
foundation of their health. From the manner some plants
are watered it is a wonder they are kept alive; they can
exhibit from one year’s end to another but a very meagre
appearance. Pot plants (plants cultivated in pots) should
never be kept in a saucer unless the object be to keep the
surpius water from the carpet or the floor; but it frequently
occurs that when kept in saucers they are watered by that

eans; such a plan should not be adopted unless the plant
be a swamp plant, like the Hydrangea Calla ethiopica, &c. ;
though there are times when some plants will admit of such
a course it will require experience for its sticcessful practice. _

| In watering plants we should imitate nature as closely

»

32 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

as possible. In the first place we should never use cold
water, as it is injurious. After a warm shower we can
plainly perceive the vigor imparted to plants, a circum-
stance not noticeable after a cold rain. In the summer wa
ter should be allowed to stand all day in a tub, and warmed
by the sun. It must not be supposed that because a hu-
man being feels refreshed in summer by the use of cold
water, that plants derive the same benefit from the use of
cold well or cistern water, for a human being has means of
exercise, therefore does not feel any ill effects; but plants
are not endowed with such faculties, and therefore suffer
from the use of water in a cold state. Therefore water
given to plants in summer should be as warm as the soil
and atmosphere, or rather warmer than otherwise. Rain,
when falling in the summer, if cool, changes the air and
soil to a corresponding temperature ; this is natural. In the
winter such plants as stand in need of water should have it
applied sparingly, and the chill should be taken off previous
to using it. In the next place it should be observed that
eur Maker has sent refreshing showers for the benefit of
plants as well as ourselves, therefore we ought to imitate
him in watering plants, by applying it at the top of the pot,
and never at the saucer; for if he deemed it best, he in his
infinite wisdom, would have provided it at the bottom of
the roots, to ascend instead of descending.

In watering plants in pots we have to be more profuse
than rain, for plants in the ground receive some moisture
at the roots, and consequently do not need so much as if in
the pot. To supply this deficiency we have to resort to
artificial means, or they would perish by being circum:
scribed within sc small a compass, without means of ob-

t

WATERING OF PLANTS., 33

taining and retaining of moisture to support them through
the warm summer. How much water plants in pots will
require depends on the weather, season, and nature of the
plants. In the summer every day; spring and fall not so
often; December and January little or none; for at that
season plants, generally speaking, are not in a growing
state. If the room where the plants are kept be dry and
warm, a little may be used to advantage; still it should be
remembered that plants may be gorged at all seasons; this

_ may be avoided in some measure by giving the plants a

good drainage when potied. It is the nature of some plants
to require more water than others; this will be easily dis-
covered, when plants are in a growing state, by the soil at
the top of the pot drying up faster than others.

The Camellia Japonica in the winter require much water

_ to make their flower buds swell and expand; i: must not

be supposed because that plant requires a pilentifui sup-
ply, that others want as much. ‘The Cacti farrily, if wa-
tered much in the winter, will soon perish; but in its grow-
ing season must have its due portion. Plants when in full
growth should never be watered close to the stem or collar .
the object is to have the water first reach the roots that ex-
tend to the sides of the pot. Many tender exotic plants
have been killed by frequently watering the collar of the
plant, as the watering from a water pot is not so gentle as
rain; therefore more likely to be injurious.

Liquid manure is sometimes used in watering plants, but
is dangerous to most varieties, unless used by a skillful gar-
dener; it should never be used by the amateur. In early
spring and fall, as also the winter, the morning is the best
time to water plants, but in summer the evening. To wa-

3o4 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ter plants and their leaves, when the sun’s rays are upor
them, is injurious (the Chrysanthemum being an excep-
tion) ; it may be said that the sun shines and it rains at the
same time; that is true, but when that is the case the. at-
mosphere is changed at the same time, and thus nature
counteracts its ill effects; but with the water pot a corres-
ponding change in the atmosphere cannot be effected, con-
sequently your plants will blister, and be spotted, which
proves that watering in the evening is most congenial, and
the spongioles of the rcots are better prepared to receive the
nourishment. |

Another custom to be condemned in persons having plants ~
is, their frequently putting them: out in the rain during the
winter months; this should never be done for-the reasor
that cold rain not being beneficial the water becomes stag-
nant,sour and rots the roots, for unless-the plants be growing
it is impossible for them to imbibe the moisture, let the sea-
son be what it may, the plants are unable to discharge the
surplus at the leaves, the plant becomes sickly and dies, and
people are unable to account for the cause, not supposing
their own anxiety and kindness had destroyed them. More
plants are killed by over watering than for the want of it,
therefore due caution should be exercised by all beginners:
im the use of that element. .

GENERAL TREATMENT OF PLANTS. 35

GENERAL TREATMENT OF PLANTS.

To give a concise direction for the management of all
plants in general cultivation would be extending this arti-
cle beyond proper limits, and be too prolix in the detail to
make it interesting. I shall therefore confine myself to but
few plants which will apply more or less to others.

In the spring plants can never be placed out of doors
with safety before May; even then we are sometimes visit-
ed by frost which may do incalculable injury; it is better
to err on the safe side than lose valuable plants. If not
placed out of doors before that time, the plants should have
the benefit of fresh air on all favorable occasions. ‘The
Rose is probably one of the most hardy pot plants in culti-
vation, will bear considerable frost, and may, to save trou-
- ble, be planted in the open ground in March and sustain no
injury, and be potted off in October and brought into the
house. But that management never would suit the Gera-
nium, which should never be placed out before May. The
fine varieties are hybrids and very tender in their nature as
well as delicate, and will not bear the least frost. Those
that have duplicate plants would do as well to plant one in
the ground; by that treatment they will frequently flower
again in the fall, and may then be cut down, potted, and
brought into the house about the fifteenth of September.
In placing this plant (Geranium) out of doors it will be ne-
cessary to water the ground at times with lime water, to
kill the worms, or they will find their way into the pots
and do considerable injury to the plants. The pit is nota

36 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

good place in which to winter the hybrid variety of this
beautiful tribe of flowers, as those plants like a dry room or
green-house rather than a damp place.

The heat of the room is the best criterion by which to
judge when plants should be watered. Plants should be
kept clean by destroying the green fly, and free of dead
leaves. In summer no plant should be allowed to suffer for
want of water. There are some succulent plants that should
never be placed to receive the heavy rains in the summer,
the Cacti tribe for instance; but plants of this description
are but few. The Camellia does not like excess of heat, and
when placed out of doors in May, should be in the shade
only; as the leaves are likely to be infested with the red
spider they should be syringed with clean water every even-
ing through the summer, and when the flower buds are
forming must be watered regularly; for if the roots are al-
lowed to become dry it will cause their buds to drop off on
the application of water, or being watered too freely at any
time will produce the same injury. This evil may in some

“measure be avoided in potting plants by a good drainage.
Then again their buds will droop by a change of the at-
mosphere when removed from summer to winter quarters ;
fresh air should never be denied them when removed into
aroom. ‘This is applicable to all plants, for all should be
inured to their winter confinement by degrees, or they can-
not sustain life without. When the Camellia is kept too
warm it causes their buds to fall, and also their growth is
forced beyond their power of retaining them. Extremes of
any kind are prejudicial to plants. |

I have pointed out the difficulties attending those his
require most care; for all other plants a medium line must

GENERAL TREATMENT OF PLANTS, 37

be drawn, where not more fully explained in other parts of
this work. To destroy insects, such as the red spider,
green fly, &c., that infest pot plants, I have always found
whale oil soap the most effectual, to be mixed in the pro-
portion of fifteen gallons of water to two pounds of soap;
not stronger, unless to destroy caterpillars. The soap and
water should be mixed twenty-four hours before used; may
be syringed or used with the water pot; the former is de-
cidedly the best, as it throws the suds with force, and will
penetrate where it could not be conveyed with the water
pot.

The practice of wintering plants in a bed-room is one
that ought never to be adopted, and no doubt is, without
due reflection; but when we consider that it subverts ore of
the greatest blessings our Maker has bestowed on us, headth,
we ought to pause; for the gases emitted by plants lay the
foundation for many diseases that are not easily eradicated
from the human system.

e HYBRIDIZING

‘=
“ Seek-for beauty, if thou wilt,
& But mark the quality.”

_ This system has become so well understood that nature
appears subjected to the willof the florist. There is certain-
ly something in the ambition of man that leads him beyond
the apparent bounds of nature in his endeavors to change

38 - A&A QUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

and improve what our Maker has kindly bestowed upon us.
Reason and avarice no doubt hava some influence on this
principle in subverting those gifts. A question arises when
presumptive man, in taking on himself liberties cf such a
nature, is he acting consistent with the attributes of his Ma-
ker or not. When we view the vast fieldsof flowers that
gild this world, and man is found diving into the researches
of nature, we feel a palliative excuse for him in assuming
liberties in endeavoring to improve those gems that embel-
lish the floral world. ‘The Bees no doubt suggest to the fio-
rist the first idea of hybridizing, and as eae insects can be
seen carrying the pollen on their soft down that covers them
from one flower to another, by this means changing the pur
rity of one with that of another, thus converting the order
of nature by hybridizing, and on a similar principle is the
pollen removed from one plant to another with a camel’s
hair pencil, thus showing what the insect effects by acci-
dent the florist effects on the same principle with the pencil
asasystem. There are many plants on the Prairies and
other places that cross naturally without those agencies, but
crosses of that kind are confined more to plants of a like
nature, beyond this there is a barrier which cannot be over-
stepped. The China Pink planted by the side of the Sweet
William will cross without artificial fecundatioa.

The florist in some measure is prescribed in his limits,
for he may cross the Peach and Plum, but he cannot con-
vey the pollen of either to the Apple with effect, the consti-
tution of the one will not admit anything of the kind on the
other. The greatest perfection of the florist’s slaill can. be
exercised with the China Rose, the pollen of which will
fertilize with that of any other rose, hence we are indebted for

HYBRIDIZING. - 39

such splendid varieties. Again, see to what perfection the

_Cineraria has been brought, also the Verbena. Gladiolus

and Geranium, and many other beautiful flowering plants.
These improvements have created much excitement in the
minds of the florist, which makes it difficult to tell when
the limit of his desire for hybridizing will be checked.

There are many hybrid plants brought into existence
that will not seed, consequently must be increased by cut-
tings or divisions of the roots, and many that do seed car-
ry a tendency towards the parent plant that in time will
return altogether and be lost as ahybrid. The settled con-
stitution of such plants is not to be relied on, for it posses-
ses a weakness, and as its flowers tend to the original pa-
rent its strength inereases, so that hybrids that cross naturally
are of short duration. ‘This may appear strange, but so it
is. If we take the pollen of one flower and fertilize another
of a different quality, the produce arising from such an ex-
periment would probably bear no posuellilenies to any raised
before, t this would be devoid of seed to perpetuate its kind
the following season. eo

It is the practice of a florist when he intends to cross a
flower, to cut the anthers out of the blossom early in the
morning when the pollen is moist and does not so readily
escape, which insures more effectually the performance.
Therefore it is necessary for these who wish to succeed in
hybridizing, to commence early in the morning. When
a plant ¢ does not seed well there would be much time lost
-m the Hiempt, for instance the Carnation, Chrysanthemam,
and many other perennials that seldom seed in this country.

When experiments by crossing are to be performed, the
“pollen should be taken from the plant early in the morning

40 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

with a camel’s hair pencil, and placed on the pistil of the
other, having previously extracted the anthers, and if effected
the petals will fade and drop off sooner than otherwise, but
if the experiment is-a failure the petals are longer falling,
and seldom fall clear, showing the difference in the two
flowers. Sometimes the Carnation will seed if the season
be propitious, and if crossed the petals will fade before
night — otherwise will take ten or twelve days before they
fall, thus giving a fair chance for the operator to renew his
experiments the following day. When the Carnation seeds
without crossing, the seedlings will produce flowers of the
original stock a flesh color.

Experiments have been tried on Lilies when the hybrid
resembled the mother plant in the leaf and stem, and the
flowers of the father, so it is with mule Pinks. Many per-
sons are of opinion’ that soil will affect the color in plants;
not so, in some measure the brilliancy of colors may be af-
fected. It is a well known fact that Carnation growers in
England, when going to exhibit their flowers for premiums
will make the soil rich, with a view to produce fine colors,
which often makes them run, that is, instead of having 2
rich stripe become selfs and worthless ; soit is with Tulips
and many other florist flowers.

In hybridizing there is something interesting in the sys-
tem, still it is all chance work, mere speculation; but the
mind of man is ever prone to projects, and will be while he
finds a solace in anticipation of any nature. The hybrid-
izing of Roses is certainly brought to the xe plus ultra of
perfection with most of that beautiful variety of flowers.

AMERICAN COWSLIP. 41

There can be much effected with other plants, therefore
the zealous will find his industry rewarded according to the
assiduity he bestows on the system.

AMERICAN COWSLIP.

(DEDOCATHEON MEDIA.)

* They shall own thee the sweetest and fairest of flowers,
That smile in the woodlands, or blush in our bowers'!
They shall own thee a lovelier gem of delight
Than they that illumine the veil of midnight!”

This very interesting and delightful hardy perennial flow-
ering plant is a native of this country. ‘The leaves are ob-
long, elliptic, in a cluster nearly flat on the ground, of a
light green color, throwing up a scape at the top of which
isan umbel of drooping flowers, of a light purple, with the
segment reflexed from near the base, beautifully variegated,
making it one of the most agreeable border flowers that
could be selected, flowering in May. This was named
“ Dedocatheon” (by Linneus), or the twelve divines; it is
generally supposed he selected that name from the number
of flowers on the scape; if such was the case we need not
wonder at the abortiveness of the name, as the umbels will
put forth sometimes as many as twenty flowers. The plant
was first discovered by Micheauz, aF rench botanist, but the
late Mr. Drummond was the first to collect the “sbde during
his researches on the Rocky Mountains, and transmitted

them to.the Edinburgh Botanic Garden, where the merit
: 4 |

42 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

of this (our) native flower is properly appreciated. The
American Cowslip is quite common in the western country,
more especially on the prairies, where its splendor is
most enchanting.

To cultivate this beautiful plant the roots should be di-
vided after their flowering and the leaves die down; -if di-
vided in the spring, a plan frequently done, will often pre-
vent them flowering that season. The seed should be sown
as soon as ripe, or may be kept until spring; a shady place
and moist soil being most desirable, it must be a rich loam.
Seedlings should not be transplanted until the second sea-
son, and will flower the third.

AMARANTHUS.

«With solemn adoration down the East,
Their crowns, inwove with amaranth and gold,
Immortal amaranth, a flower which once
In Paradise, first by the tree of life
Began to bloom.”

This is a very numerous family of ornamental flowering
plants, which gives to the flower garden a lively appear-
ance from the month of July to September. The racemes
of these annuals are superb, some more so than others. A.
melancholicus grows about four feet high, flowering all the
summer; this plant is better calculated for a large garden,
consequently not much cultivated in this country as in some
parts of Europe, The color isa rich crimson purple. This

AMARANTHUS. 43

plant, like A. tricolor, is not well adapted for a bougeut, its
chief culture being intended for their ornamental appcar-
ance and their singularity; the latter is very showy in a
large garden, the gorgeous appearance of the leaves are ve-
ry strikingly showy to the eye. The leaves of this plant
being variegated is the origin of its name tricolor, and when
in perfection and the sun shining on them,are extremely
dazzling. Round the stem are tufts adhering containing
the seed. These and most of the species are natives of the
Indies. To grow them well tke soil should be light and
rich; if raised in the hot-bed great care should be taken to
protect them from early frost, as all those varieties are ten-
der. A. globosi is another beautiiul variety, extremely or-
namental and more cultivated than the above named varie-
ty, and is well known as the “ Bachelor’s Buttons.” If
these flowers are gathered before ripe, or the frost nips them,
they retain their primitive color all the winter. Of the

‘Globe we have two varieties, white and purple, the latter

more showy. ‘There are others, also, considered ornamen-
tal, but it would be useless to go into particulars of their de-
scription as the family are numerous; they generally flower
until killed by the frost. The Amaranthus is one of the
oldest flowers in cultivation, as we find them in much es-
teem by the ancients. The Thessalians decorated their
heads with crowns made of the Amaranthus at the obse-
quies of Achilles. Milton has been lavishing in praise of
their beauty i in his description of heaven.. Pope, and many
other ‘poets also sung in praise of the richness appertaining

‘to their beauty. , Site

44 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ARGEMONE.

(PAPAVERZNA, OR PRICKLY POPPY.)

This is a hardy annual, and the variety consistsof not
more than six, whose diversity of colors are not very exten-
sive, being principally white and yellow, of erect habit and
branching, leaves resembling the thistle. ‘The Argemone
_ isa nativa of Mexico, flowering from July to August, pre-
fers a sandy loam; the stem is about two feet, not very pre-
possessing in appearance, therefore not much cultivated in
this country » |

ASTERS.

“ Thow art like some lone brilliant star,
Some planetary light,
That glitters, radiant and afar,
Within the depth of night.”

This is a very numerous family of late flowering peren-
nials, all deserving a place in the back ground of the bor-
ders. ‘The Aster best known here is a native of this coun-
try, called the “ Missouri Aster,” of an azure blue, rather
late in flowering, but it puts forth its lively flowers at a sea-
son that makes them truly welcome, cheering up the ap-
pearance of the garden at a season when all other flowers

‘ — a
ASTERS. 45

are on the wane, making them highly deserving our favor,
The stem of this Aster grows from five to six feet high, the
leaves linear, lanceolate, entire, fleshy, smooth, and slightly
ribbed. ‘The flowers corymbose, scales of the involucrum
obtuse, slightly membranous. This Aster and others are
easily propagated by dividing the roots in the spring or fall,
or by sowing the seeds in the spring, and will flower the
first year. ‘The Asters are cultivated extensively in Eu-
rope. Mr. 'T’. Rivers has been quite industrious in crossing
them, and with considerable success. In his catalogue
there are. seventeen distinct varieties flowering from Septem-
ber to December, which must appear beautiful at that sea-
son. ‘The soil for the culture of the Asters should be a rich
loam. |

AGAPANTHUS.

(UMBELLATUS. )

This superb and magnificent Lily is a native of Africa,
and is treated as a green-house plant, does equally well in
a pit or room; was introduced in 1692. The leaves are
slightly channelled, long, entire, something like the Leek of
the vegetable sable is evergreen, throwing up a stem
about three feet high, with an umbel of beautiful azure
blue flowers; the head is not unlike the seed-pod of the
onion, exhibiting about one hundred flowers, each standing
ona pedicle about one inch long. As the flowers do not
expand all at one time, gives the plant a very imposing ap-

46 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

pearance for about six weeks. ‘There is another variety
with a striped leaf, not so robust in habit, flowers alike, but
not in such profusion; also one bearing white flowers, not
very attractive. The rocts of this-Lily are not, strictly
speaking, bulbous or fibrous, but inclining in formation to
the Leek. This plant is tender, and from the month of
November to February requires but little water, when ina
growing state a plentiful supply.

The soil should be a sandy loam with a small portion of
cow manure. ‘The best time to divide the roots is in Octo-
ber. From the nature and growth of this plant it will re-
quire some labor in dividing them, in doing which, if one
half of the roots are cut out the plant will not be injured
by the operation. The shifting of this plant is often resorted
to which is not required, once a year being often enough,
and will flower the sooner by being disturbed less than gen-
erally practised.

AGERATHUM.

(MEXICANUM.)

Of this variety of half hardy annuals there are but two,
Odoratum and Mexicanum, the stem generally erect, the
flowers terminal, irregularly branched, corymb of a delicate
blue. The seeds should be sown in March and will flower
from June to September. Both are natives of Mexico, and

— — A
g 4
yj

iii

AGERATHUM. | 47

will grow in any common garden soil. The fragrant vari-
ety is the most esteemed for cultivation as an ornamental
fiower.

ANEMONE.

(ANEMONE CORONARIA.)

“Not a tree,
.A plant, a leaf, a blossom, but contains
- A folio volume. We may read and read,
And read again, and still find something new,
Something to learn, and something to digest,
E’en in the humble weed.”

The Anemone is a species of wind-flower, and is consid-
ered a florist flower, was imported into Europe 1596, about
the same time as the Ranunculus was. A Coronaria is
the poppy or garland flower, is a native of the Levant, but
A. Hortensis is a native of the most elevated parts of the
countries in Siberia, Switzerland, Germany, and the most
northern parts of the continent, and more hardy than the
Ranunculus. The leaves of the Anemone are terminate,
segments multified and linear, muricated lobes, stem about
nine inches branching, flowers terminal and various, flower-
ing in May and June. The management of one is applica-
ble to the other; the single and some semi-double are held
in as high repute as the double, but the colors must be bril-

lant and distinct. ‘The roots resemble in some respects the

roots of ginger, and the flowers have a family resemblance

48 & GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

to the Clematis, and the brilliancy of their colors make
them indispensible in all well regulated flower gardens,
The following criterion for a fine Anemone is taken from
Loudon’s Encyclopedia, page 1029.

_“ The stem should be strong, elastic, and erect, not less
than nine inches high. The blossom or corolla should be
at jeast two imches and a half in diameter, consisting of an
exterior row of large, substantial, well rounded petals, or
guard leaves, at first horizontally extending, and then turn-
ing a little upwards; so as to form a broad shallow cup, the
interior part of which should contain a great number of
long and small petals irmbricating each other, and rather re-
verting from the centre cf the blossom; there are a great
number of smal! slender stamens intermixed with the pe-
tals, but these are shert and not easily discernible. The
colors showld be clear and distinct when diversified in the
same flower, or brilliant and striking if it consist only of
one color, as blue, crimson, or scarlet, &c., in which case
the bottom of the broad exterior petals are generally white;
but the beauty and contrast is considerably increased when
both the exterior and interior petals are regularly marked
with alternate blue and white, or pink and white, &c.,
stripes, which ia the broad petals should not extend quite to
the margin.’

The soil most suitable is rather Hght and sandy loam,
still this plant is by no means tenacious. ‘Phe best time to
plant them is October, and will bloom in April and May,
and if shaded will retain their brilliancy for a long time,
and if planted in November will flower im May and June.
The Anemone can be brought to bloom in any month
of the year, but those planted late and protected with

i lil

Z ANEMONE. 49

a layer of manure are decidedly the best flowers, and those
planted at any other season will degenerate. The roots of
‘the Anemone are generally sold by the ounce, but can be

purchased by the hundred if selected by name, which in

general is the dearest way. One hundred can be purchased

at about five dollars up to fifty. The reason assigned for
selling by the ounce is that well grown roots are larger, and
the purchasers can divide the roots to suit their fancy, for
every.piece will generally flower the first season with the
same facility as the larger roots.

The Anemone continues growing after the blooming
season is over,much longer than the Ranunculus, being
more succulent, and should be taken up just before the
leaves die down, for if permitted to remain much longer
will begin to grow again, and materially injure them for
the next season. To raise from seed you must select
from the semi-double flowers and manage them the same as
Ranunculus, and should never be grown in the same bed
often as the soil deteriorates. ‘This family does not contain
above two hundred with names, quite enough to supply any
reasonable person with all the colors his desire could wish.

ox

50. A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ACHIMENES.

‘** When the wandering eye
Unfixed is in a verdant ocean lost,
ANcTHER Frora then, of bolder hues,
And richer sweets, beyond our garden’s pride.”

This is a family of bulbous rooted plants of recent intro-
duction, and now commands much attention by the florist
in this country as well as Europe. A. Longifoloia is of an
azure blue flower, the foliage a dark green and of fine hab-
it, forming a beautiful contrast, growing about twenty inch-
es high and branching. The different varieties all vary
in color of the flowers. I do not know of a family of flow-
ers of recent introduction more prepossessing than the Achij-
menes, all growing easily from cuttings, but is principally
propagated from bulbs that form in abundance at the roots
of the plant, about the size and shape of a pea. | observe
some of the latest introduction the bulbs appear about
half an inch long and formed of scales, small, not unlike
the burr of the pine. These plants are better calculated fer
the green-house, as the bulbs require to be planted early
and should be forced with bottom heat, either of tanner’s
bark or stable manure to make them flower early, other-
wise it will be so late before you get them to flower that the
cold weather would prevent them from developing their
beautiful and graceful flowers. These plants are tender
and will not bear the least frost, therefore should be always
kept in the house. The soil best calculated for the whole
variety is a rich soil, principally leaf mould and sand with

ACH I MENES, 51

a good drainage, as the plant requires plenty of water, still
must not be allowed to become stagnant in the pot. The
Achimenes will always be cheap, as it increases fast when
kept in the green-house; with those not having that conve-
nience it would be best to purchase of the nurseryman in

June, when in flower, it would save much trouble and dis-

appointment in bringing them forward. 'Those who wish
to raise their own plants should, as soon as their plants die

‘down, place the pots in a cellar in the winter, but if allow-

ed to get damp or freeze, the bulbs would be destroyed, or
the bulbs may be packed in dry sand. In March the bulbs
should be potted into two inch pots and placed in a hot-bed,
and be kept moderately moist; in three or four weeks the
plants will begin to appear. When you discover the pot

filled with roots, repot them into four inch pots, which will

be large enough for them to flower in, as this plant does
not extend its roots far, therefore requires a smaller pot than

many other plants, but a larger one is generally used than

necessary, otherwise the top would be too heavy for the pot.
The time of their flowering will depend on the propagator
either late or early, the sooner brought to flower the better,
for if late the cold in the fall will stop them. Notwith-
standing the difficulty attending this plant, the trouble will
amply compensate in their magnificent display of bee:
which 1 is very profuse.

52 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

AZALEA.

(PULCHRA.) 3

\ “‘ There’s danger in the dazzling eye,
That woos thee with its witching smile;
Another, when thou art not by,
Those beaming looks would fain beguile.”

This. beautiful hybrid variety of one of our most interest:
ing species of shrubby flowering plants, commonly called
“Pretty Azalra,’ generally flowers from March to April.

he spreading branches of this shrub is thickly covered with
brown hair, the lower side more so than the upper. Leaf
stalk short, flowers solitary, occasionally two or three ter-
minal. Flower stalk with white hairs, and the calyx part-
ed deeply and hairy. Corolla, bright rose color with red
on the upper segments, stamens ten, and the stigma a glos-
sy red. This magnificent flowering shrub is easily kept in
a pit, and when wanted to flower should be brought into a
warm room. ‘

There is a large family of the Azalea in cultivation much
admired for their commanding appearance when in bloom,
for when well grown presents owe mass of flowers. There
is a double variety, but not so desirable as the single, and
requires a warm place to make it flower, therefore not suit-
able for parlor culture, all the single varieties are. The
Azalea is a little tender, like most plants indigenous to Chi-
na, therefore should be kept out of reach of frost; is of easy
culture, growing readily from cuttings, taking off the young
wood as soon after flowering as grown from four to six

pelt Fabs
? : on we
? ves

f
.

AZALRA. by

inches long, be sure and cut close to the old wood, then
plant the cuttings in a light sandy soil and cover with a
bell glass managed as directed for cuttings. In six weeks
the cuttings will be sufficiently rooted, and should be pot-
ted off and then placed in the shade until established. To
propagate from seed it will be best to sow them as soon as
ripe, and in the spring when the young plants are of suf
ficient size, which will be when three inches high, pot them
off and treat them the same as cuttings. ‘The proper time
to repot the old plants is as soon as done flowering, unless
you discover seed pods on them, which should be allowed
to ripen first. The best soil to grow them in is a sandy
loam, and is also applicable to sow seed in. When your
plants are repotted place them in the shade until September,
when they should be removed to their winter quarters.
The Azalea,during its flowering season, requires plenty
of water or its flowers will drop, at other seasons requir-
ing but little.

AURICULA.

(PRIMULA AURICULA.)

** See,
When arrayed in sparkling dust and velvet pride,
a Like brilliant stars arranged in splendid row,
The proud Auriculas their lustre show.”

_ This beautiful gem of flora is a native of the Swiss Al-
pine Mountains, and is supposed to be a variety with Pri-

54 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

mula Helveticus, Nevis, and Viscosa. Its original color is
orange yellow, not much unlike the English Cowslip, and
not over prepossessing in appearance, unless in its pristine
state. The Auricula was imported into England in the six-
teenth century, and was found susceptible of improvement
by cultivation. Since that time much care has been be-
stowed by florists, and the perfection it has attained is aston-
ishing, so much so that it has become one of the leading
florist flowers of England; and instead of the original col-
ors is now one of the most beautiful imaginable. There
are catalogues published in London containing several hun-
dred with different names, from fifty cents each up to fifty
dollars, depending on their perfection of beauty and scarcity.

It is a matter of surprise that this delightful flower is not
more cultivated in this country, for any situation that will
preserve the Carnation through the winter would be con-
genial to the Auricula; indeed I think the Carnation the
more tender of the two. Being a native of the Alpine re-
gions of Switzerland, Italy, and Germany, it remains dor-
mant through the winter, being entirely covered with snow,
therefore it must be conclusive that any situation that is a
little above freezing point is suitable — for instance, a cellar
or pit is all the protection necessary. During the months
of December and January must be kept tolerably dry. In
the beginning of February take some of the soil out of the
pot without disturbing the roots, and replace it with fresh,
and begin to water, moderately at first, and the benefit re-
sulting will soon be perceptible. The best time to take off
the side shoots is in the spring when the plants are in flow-
er, as you can more readily mark the varieties. It is not
material whether the side shoots have root fibres or not, as

ae re ove ie. oe
: w

)

; .

“AURICULA. 55

they will soon strike root at that season, and the spring fol-
lowing will flower. In the summer this plant delights in
the shade, and must be regularly watered. The best time
to repot is in the month of September, in four inch pots, for
this plant will flower better when the roots come in contact
with the sides of the pot. The best soil for the Auricula
is from the woods, more particularly in the ravines, where
rotten wood and leaves are washed, with a mixture of sand
or fine stone.

From the works published in England on the culture of
this plant, one would suppose it difficult to manage, for the
methods advocated by different authors (for each recom-
mends a different soil) only mystify and perplex amateurs,
consequently many valuable plants are lost. Reflection
should teach us in our experience that it would be more ju-
dicious in the management of Alpine plants, to come as
near as we can to their native habits, in soil and protection.
In almost every cottage in England the traveller’s eye is
greeted with the Auricula, and it was a gratification to the
writer of this, during a tour through that country in 1837,
to visit a garden in the beginning of May, at the end of
which was a stage of these flowers, about one hundred in
number. Words cannot describe the feelings experienced
at that moment, when presented to view; _ being fairly riv-
eted to the spot with amazement and delight. Such a sight
never before met my eye, and I believe never will again.
I had often heard the beauties of this flower extolled, but
never before was their splendor realized; and I may with
safety say the recollection will never be erased from my
memory. When I regained possession of myself, and view-
ed the beautiful color of the various flowers, the black, the

i
ike

56 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

brown, the purple, richness of the blue, the brightness of
the pink, the splendor of the scarlet, and richness of the
crimson; some edged with green, some with white, and
others with grey; again others with dark ground, with
beautiful white powder sprinkled over the flower, as if the
wind itself threatened to waft its delicacy away, and destroy
the incomparable beauty of the flower—then again the
largeness of the trusses and their fragrance —all these in-
toxicated the mind with delight.- In that collection I no-
ticed the “Conqueror of Europe,’ price fifteen dollars ;
“ Robert Burns,” (Hodges) “Ne plus Ultra,’ “Champion,”
“ Hero,” and others equally valuable; but these were many
the most prominent. I have from that time been an admir-
er of the Auricula.

This plant is extensively cultivated in England by seed,
by most gardeners and amateurs, and presented for exhibi-
tion, and prizes are awarded to the successful flower. The
Lancashire weavers are the most successful Auricula grow-
ers, as it appears from floricultural reports. There is some
difficulty in getting the seed to germinate if not fresh, as it
may occur sometimes that seed will be one or two years be:
fore they come up unless forced in a hot-bed. When the
seedlings have formed four leaves they should be trans-
planted into thumb pots, and be kept in the shade and never
suffered to become dry, nor be placed where the rain falls,
or they will be washed out of the soil. Seedlings will flow-
er the second season. The soil recommended for full
grown plants will also do for seed and seedlings.

ACACIA. 57

> ACACIA.

* Our rocks are rough, but smiling there
The Acacia weaves her yellow hair,
-Lonely and sweet, nor loved the less
For flowering in a wilderness;
Then come, my Arab maid will be
The loved and lone Acacia tree.”

‘The Acacia is a very numerous family of deciduous
plants, generally found in all parts of the globe; most of the
showy varieties are generally calculated for the green-
house, while some few are calculated to decorate the shrub-
bery. The common Acacia, better known as the Locust,
is a native of this country, and one of the finest ornamental
shade trees ever produced; although of a showy appear-
ance in groves or round dwellings, it is not calculated for the
confines of a city, as it is subject to the attacks of insects,
and then easily broken off by the wind, thus destroying
its primitive beauty and majestic form. For a grove or
shade in the country it is unsurpassed, and is not ravaged by
insects, as the birds feed on and destroy them. Then again
the wood is valuable to farmers for posts. Their roots do
not extend deep underground, consequently is apt to throw
up suckers in abundance, which must be either taken off
and planted, or destroyed when young. This tree is not so
early as most of our natives in putting forth in the spring;
the leaves and flowers appear much about the same time,
and the fragrance of the flowers can be inhaled for some
distance, so strong and delightful is the odor. The Rosa
Acacia, Robina Mispida, is certainly a beautiful deciduous

58 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

shrub, very ornamental, in the flower garden, generally
flowering in a rich loam from May to September, and is.
hardy. ‘The racemes axillary, leaves are pinnate, and the
stem hispid. The flowers are drooping, racemes of rosy
pink, the flowers in the form of pea blossoms, clustered and
fascinating in appearance, commanding the admiration of
persons possessing the least taste for flowers.

This plant is propagated by suckers, or grafted on the
common Locust from one to three feet from the ground,
according to fancy. This shrub flowers better when graft-
ed than when on its own bottom ; not only so but the flow-
ers are larger. ‘These plants should be grafted in the
spring; the operation is performed in the usual way of
otafting fruit trees. There are some fine varieties from the
East Indies which require to be cultivated in the green-
house. The finest of this species is A. Laphante, the blos-
soms of which are a clear sulphur yellow, of most imposing
beauty; even the delicate foliage with its pinnated leaves,
which resembles the sensitive plant, is an ornament inde-
pendent of the external beauty of the flowers. It is some-
what doubtful if this plant would suit the parlor, as the
least frost would be detrimental, unless the heat of the room
be such as to exclude the frost entirely, and if the heat was
not uniform would be also injurious. A. Salgna, com-
monly called the “willow,” is another variety, from New
South Wales, and was introduced in 1818; not so tender
as the other, will grow ten feet high. The leaves are more
in the shape of the Oleander leaf, only more blunt at the
end, quite entire, the flowers yellow, the seed pod contracted
between the seed. There is no doubt this variety would
do well in the parlor, being a free bloomer, and will with-

=

stand considerable frost; this makes it a desirable variety.
A. Oxycedorus is another still more desirable, and will
withstand a hard frost. This plant was introduced in 1824
from New Holland. -Branches of this variety spread, the
points cernuous, leaves rigid, alternate or in whorls, linear,
lanceolate, stipules short, rigid spine, about the length of
those at the point of the leaf, peduncles clothed, dense wood.
This variety will grow readily from cuttings, and indeed so
will most of the Acacias, but séme are more difficult. than
others. It appears that we are indebted to New Holland
for some of the finest varieties, and those not so tender as
many, though of late there have been some beautiful plants
brought from Africa, but are very tender. There are some
of this species of ornamental plants in China; the flowers
are used as a yellow die, being very permanent, as may be
seen by their silks of that color, whichare imported from
there; but to follow the history and description of this nu-
merous and valuable family of plants would be foreign to
the purpose, and this article is now longer than originally
intended whea first commenced.

ACACIA. 59

BEAUTIFUL NEMOPHILA.

_ (NEMOPHILA INSIGNIS.)
This plant is of late introduction and better calculated

for parlor culture than the open ground, in habit of spread-
ing, the leaves scollaped, flowers cup shape, of a beautiful

60 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

azure blue, centre white, does not grow above six inches
high, is considered hardy, flowering in the spring. The
seeds of this annual should be sown in September in pots,
and brought into the house in November, and will flower
early. There are two other varieties, NW. Atomarza, and N.
Discordalis; the first raised from seed by Mr. Turner of
Chalvey, in England, and is a pale blue, striated all over
with white, very distinct; and the latter has a black disk
with a white edge, extremely pretty.

The soil for these annuals should bea rich loam, and
their treatment should be alike. Sow seeds again in the
spring for a second crop. |

BINDWEED.

(CONVOLVULUS ARVENSIS.)

There is a numerous family of the Bindweed, natives of
all parts of the globe. C. Arvensis is a perennial runner,a
native of England, bearing a rose colored flower in June
and July, rather small and trumpet shape. Leaves sagitate,
lobes acute, pedunclesare flowered, minute bractee, distinct
from the flowers. ‘This variety does not possess much
merit and may be considered the most inferior of the whole
tribe. There is another variety extensively cultivated and
better known as the “Morning Glory.” C. Major posses-
sing innumerable variety of flowers of all colors, of great

richness. This variety shows to great advantage when

BINDWEED. 61

trained to the arbor or window, affording a good shade
while the flowers are imposing to the sight, affording a
double incentive to their culture. ,

C. Minor, is another extremely beautiful variety, well
calculated for the border, running about two feet and pro-
lific in flowers. This plant is known as the tricolor con-.
volvulus, the flowers being white, yellow, and blue. The

_last two varieties are annuals, requiring a rich soil to flower

well, and generally flower from June until killed by the
frost. There are many others well worthy of culture, but
the above are old favorites, and will always retain their po-
sition in all gardens.

BALSAM. TOUCH-ME-NOT.

(IMPATIENS BALSAMINA.)

“ To mark the matchless working of the power,
That shuts within the seed the future flower,
Bid those in elegance of power excell, aie
a In color those, and those delight in smel ;
. Sends nature forth, the daughter of the skies,
To dance on earth, and charm the human eyes.”

The Balsam, or Touch-me-not, is generally supposed -to
be a native of England, which is not the case, with the ex-
ception of I. Noli-me-tangere, which is found growing in
Yorkshire and some other parts, while many others are na-
tives of the East Indies, and was imported as far back as

62 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

1596, and even some from Italy in 1564; and IL. Fulva, the
tawny flowered, is a native of this country, and may be
found growing about the Niagara Falls. i. Pallidais also
another indigenous to this country, resembling much the
English variety.

The Balsam delights in a humid and shady situation,
and is unquestionably the handsomest annual in cultivation.
The flowers are formed in a cone, the colors various. ‘The
stem erect with succulent joints, from two to three feet high,
with numerous branches. The leaves generally ovate, ser-
rated, petiolate. It is observable that this variety of annuals
in the hottest weather assumes all freshness and beauty, at the
same time while most other plants are suffering. The rea-
son this plant has been named Impatiens, is from the sim-
ple circumstance of the irritability attached to the seed pod,
which is formed of fine valves, and when pressed with the
finger and thumb spring with great elasticity, and the seed,
without care, is scattered some distance. The valves of
the seed vessel are larger in the middle, and each valve
contains a certain degree of fluid, the outer side, as may
reasonably be supposed, is more dense than the imner, and
on the least pressure the ends contaiming less fluid hold to-
gether rather longer, which makes the sudden action more
sensible in the middle than if all gave at the same time.
This is better illustrated by pressing the valves that have
not attained maturity, as the action of the movement is not
so sudden.

Although this plant has been in cultivation so long its
character is but partially understood, for in former days the
Balsam was considered a tender annual, but that opinion. is

fast dissipating ; no doubt it arose from the circumstance

Tey.

BALSAM. TOUCH-ME-NOT. 63.

that the seed used to be sown in the month of January, in
a hot-bed, and the concomitant usually attending was its
flowering before it could be safely planted out in the open
ground, for it could not stand the chilly clime of England
when planted so early. The Balsam started in the hot-bed
will unquestionably produce finer colors than if brought
forward in the open air, a circumstance contrary to the
nature of flowers in general. The great characteristic of
the Balsam is a fine double flower with brilliant colors; to
obtain this object the desideratum is time and attention, aiid
never sew the seed until five years old, for the older the
better, and will be more double in their flowers. How fre-
quently is it exemplified before our eyes, when we see these
fine ambrosial flowers in a garden, when the amateur begs
a few seed, which are sown the next season, under the sup-
position that they will produce as good, when contrary to
expectation, in most cases the flowers are single or nearly
so. Whereas had those seeds been kept five years, their
expectations would have been realized with double flowers.
To raise fine flowers that will produce the richest colors
the seed should be sown in a hot-bed in the month of
March, in a pan of rich sandy loam, and then placed in the
hot-bed. When the plants are two or three inches high
transplant them into two inch pots and return them to the
~ hot-bed to strike fresh root. When you find the roots be-
gin to shoot through the hole in the bottom, without break-
ing the ball of dirt, repot them into one a size larger, giving
them plenty of air (but avoid frost) until the plants are hard-
ened, keeping them as near the glass as possible to prevent
the plants being drawn up; as soon as you can plant them
in the open ground with safety do so. Should you be de-

64 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

sirous to bloom them in pots, let them be seven inch size.
For a second crop sow more seeds in the open ground in
April, and when sufficiently large transplant them to where
intended to flower. By this method fine flowers can be
produced from June until late in the fall. The first flower
buds had better be taken off to make the plants stronger
and the flowers larger and more conspicuous in their beau-
ty, which is so agreeable to the eye.

This is one of the flowers nature designed to soothe the
mind by its external beauty after our daily toil, which cre-
ates in us a secret pleasure in contemplating the works of
nature and art. It has often been a wonder to me that the
Author of our being should give that portion of the human
race (females) a greater love for flowers than our own sex.
It must arise from no other source than their hearts being
more refined and more open to the beauties of nature. How
observable is this truth, for when we wish to ingratiate into
their favor (if in the flower season) we think a bouquet the
steatest favor to be offered. We are prompted to this by
an innate feeling that it is the most acceptable offering to
be made. Ladies understanding the language of flowers
receive them with more pleasure than the donor for one
moment imagines.

BEAUTIFUL CLARKIA. 65

;?

BEAUTIFUL CLARKIA.

(CLARKIA PULCHELLA.)

- -This hardy flowering plant is rather prepossessing in ap-
pearance, is a native of California, and succeeds best if the
seeds be sown in the fall in any common garden soil. This
plant is of erect habit and inclinable to branch; the leaves
are long and narrow, flowers four, spreading ede each
formed of three narrow forked lobes, of a rose color, growing
one foot high. This plant was discovered by Governor
Lewis in his travels through that country. Within a few
years the English florists have succeeded in raising a dou-
ble variety that seeds freely, and is now becoming very
extensively circulated, which gives it some panonance as a
border flower.

BOX.

(BUXUS.)

* Nor Box, nor lines, without their use are made,
Smooth grained and proper for the Turner's trade,
‘ Which curious hands may carve and seal,
With use invade.”

The common Dutch or Dwarf Box is a beautiful orna-
ment in the flower garden, whether we view it as a solitary

66 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

plant or round the borders of the bed. ‘There is something
lively in its appearance in the summer, and its being ever-
green gives life to that department through the dreary
months of winter, when scarcely any other plant shows the
least vestage of life.

The box is easily propagated from slips planted in March,
and will soon root. ‘The next season it should be planted
round the borders of the beds so that the leaves will just
touch, and not allow more than one inch above ground, and
the following season begin to trim the tops so as to make
them all one height, and should at no time be allowed to
grow higher than five inches when round the border. Box
should be trimmed in the spring and fall in damp weather,
or the ends will turn color and injure their beauty. It will
grow in any garden soil, and will bear removing at any
time in the year but mid-summer.

There are other varieties also ornamental in the garden.
The common Tee Box is a native of Europe and is found
in some parts of Asia. In England it has long ceased to
grow in its pristine state, and is only to be found under the
culture of the florist. There are several places in England
where it used to grow, named after it, for instance Box Hill
in Surrey, Boxly in Kent, and Boxwell in Gloucestershire.
The Boxwood imported from the Levant is considered the
largest and best for mechanical purposes, and is held high
and sold by weight to engravers on wood, and wind instru-
ments; also for mathematical instrument makers, &c.

CALLA /AETHIOPICA, 67.

CALLA HTHIOPICA.

(ETHIOPIAN CALLA.)

‘This isa much admired perennial and is cultivated to
some extent throughout the civilized world, and is treated
as a tender plant; the least frost will destroy it. The Calla
is a water plant, growing in swampy grounds at the Cape
of Good Hope, throwing up a stem in the spring two or
three feet high, depending on the age of the plant. The
_ flower is singularly formed of one whorl or vase-like calyx
of pure white. ‘The leaves arrow shape, formed at the end
of the leaf stem. From July to September this plant should
be kept moderately dry, and in September should be repot-
‘ted into a rich sandy loam, previous to which take off the
side shoots and pot them separately. This plant will stand
out all the winter in the South if planted in the mud in a
pond, about two or three feet from the top of the water; the
root will then be sufficiently protected from the effects of
frost. This plant, when in the parlor, should be kept in a
pan of water, which should be filled every day, as it will
discharge a great deal at the tip of the leaves, and should
never be allowed to be dry while growing or it will not
flower. This plant is increased by offsets which must be
treated the same as grown plants. }

68 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

CATCHFLY.
(SILENE ANGELICA.)

There are several varieties of the Catchfly, natives of Eng-
land. This annual flowering plant throws up a stem about
eighteen inches high, bearing white flowers. The petals
are hairy, small, and viscid, crowned, bifid; the calyx have
setaceous teeth; fruit ovate and partially reflexed.. Lobel’s
Catchfly is considered the best annual bearing a pink flow-
er; both are ornamental and should be planted together,
as the different colors give a pleasing effect when mixed.
This plant generally flowers in June, but by sowing the
seed at different times will flower accordingly, and if sown
in the fall will withstand the severity of the winter, and
make strong plants in the spring, and flower early. When
the seeds are once sown in the garden they need no further
trouble, as they generally sow their own seeds and can be
transplanted to where intended to flower, being suited to
any kind of soil.

COFFEE-TREE,

(COFFZA ARABICA.)

This is certainly a delightful ornamental evergreen tree,
a native of Arabia and Abyssinia, of easy culture, and de-

A L om é' =

o.

COFFEE-TREE. 69

sirable for the green-house or parlor. The branches are
? opposite, gradually diminishing in length as they near the

top. Leaves opposite with short feeble stalls, oblong, ovate,

acuminate and entire, five inches long, dark green and glos-
sy. The flowers white, sweet scented, and in groups in the
axil of the upper leaves, and divided into lanceolate pointed
segments. Stamens project above the tube; the fruit round-
ish, umbellate at the top, changing from green to red, con-
taining two seeds, which are the berries now so extensively
used as a beverage.

- Coffee was first cultivated at Batavia where the first ber-
ties were sent in 1690; from this place a plant was sent to
the Governor of the Dutch East India Company in Am-
sterdam, but the plant did not succeed so well as expected,
the climate being too cold. In 1718 it was sent to Surinam,
a Dutch settlement in the West Indies; the climate being
more congenial it did well, and propagated fast from seed.
From this place it was introduced into the different tropical
Islands, and soon became established as an article of com-
merce as well as luxury. The fruit raised by parlor cult-
ure does not contain so fine a flavor as the berries imported,
setting aside the value of the berries, their beautiful appear-
ance whichareabundant at all times, and the fragrance of

_ the flowers, make these shrubs highly ornamental and de-

sirable. ‘The Coffee is easily raised from seed, and will
bear fruit the third year if planted in a rich sandy loam in
pots well drained, and watered freely, and in winter guard-
ed against frost.

70 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

CLEMATIS, OR TRAVELLER’S JOY.

* The Traveller's Joy is a darling thing,
None loveth it more than I;
I’ve seen it in courtly gardens cling;
I’ve seen it ’mid rocks and ruins spring;
I know hedge-rows where it’s wandering
And I smile as I pass it by.”

yy

This is a fine family of half hardy herbaceous flowering
plants, natives of different countries, some are sweet scented ;
and as a pot plant well calculated for parlor culture, run-
ning from ten to fifteen feet, which requires a frame of fan-
cy work to show the plant to the best advantage. The
Clematis has been in cultivation about four hundred years,
and is much esteemed by florists and retains a conspicuous
place in the green-house, although it will bear considerable
frost. The leaves generally are pinnate, segments smooth,
entire, or three lobed, and various form, of rapid growth,
the wood slender and shrubby, and is easily grown from
cuttings in the spring or by seed; the soil for these plants
should be rich. ‘To raise new varieties it will be necessary
to have recourse to impregnation, as this variety of plants
will not cross by natural means.

To take this extensive variety of trailing plants as a
whole it would be difficult to find any more beautiful, or of
easier culture, desirable as well as ornamental, repaying the
amateur for the little trouble bestowed on its culture. The
Clematis introduced by Dr. Seibold, named “ Violet Clema-
tzs,” is considered one of the best, of a clear and delightful

pul: home ay.

%

Published by Howston & Stoneman, Paternoster Row. May 1 1844.

CLEMATIS, OR TRAVELLERS JOY. 71

purple. C. Flawula isa fine sweet scented variety, but
the leaves are poisonous and should be kept out of the reach
of children. C. Florida bears a white flower, also desira- _
ble. A few well selected plants of different colors would
make a splendid appearance in the window of any amateur
in the spring and summer while flowering.

*

CINERARIA, OR THE CAPE ASTER.

“The youthful season’s wanton bloom

Renews the beauty of each flower,

And to the sweet songed bird is come
Glad welcome from its darling flower.”

This is a delightful herbaceous perennial and is becom-
mg quite a favorite in the green-house as well as the parlor.
Within a few years the florists of England and France have
been industrious in hybridizing the old varieties, which are
natives of Europe, Cape of Good Hope, and other parts, by
these means we are furnished with those delightful hybrid
flowers, now so industriously cultivated by nurserymen, with

__ Aster like flowers, developing their lively appearance in the
early spring. The leaves of the Cineraria are alternate,
covered with a white soft down, the under part of a purple
east, the flower stem from twelve to eighteen inches high,
with a fine radient corymb or panicled flowers of spicy fra-
grance at the extreme ends, some bearing purple, white
with a purple disk, others pink, and some white tipped with
purple, and many other colors and shades. There are sev-

&

72 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

eral ways of propagating these plants; in the first place by
seeds, and the best time to sow them is early in the spring
or late in the fall, the dry weather of the summer being
rather severe for seedlings of this species of plants unless
very careful. ‘The seeds should be sown in a pan or box
of light rich soil, with a good drainage; they should
not be covered; the soil should be kept moist, and as soon
as the seedlings have formed a few leaves should be potted
off into two inch pots, and when you discover the pot filled
with roots shift them into a pot one size larger; in hke
manner shift into one of four inch, which will be large
enough to flower in. I have generally found the seed sav-
ed in this country does not germinate well. 1 would recom-
mend imported seed, not only for the sake of their vegetative
properties, but you may in all probability secure some new
hybrid, as the nurserymen in Europe raise such vast num-
bers in the same green-house that the chance of crossing is
decidedly greater than with us, where our collection is lim-
ited. This plant is easily cultivated by slips taken off at
any season; the most judicious time is September, as these
cuttings will make good flowering plants the following
spring. The roots of many of this variety, if allowed to die
down, will spring up again; and can sometimes be divid-
ed. It must be remembered that these plants, though easily
cultivated, are extremely tender and soon destroyed by frost.
When your plants have done flowering they should be placed
in the shade, and give no more water than to keep them
from flagging ; or you may plant them in the open ground,
which will save much trouble, until you take off your cut
tings in the fall. The soil best adapted for their culture is

CINERARIA, OR THE CAPE ASTER. 73

a rich and light soil, and the pots must have a good drain-
age, and if kept in the shade will retain their colors more

pure,

CUCKOO-FLOWER.

(LYCHNIS FLOSCULI.)

This a pretty herbaceous perennial flowering plant, a
native of England, where it is found growing profusely
along the lanes and road-side. Flowering from April to
June, bearing a double flower of a rose color, on a stem
about fifteen inches high. The leaves are pinnate, the rad-
icles roundish, toothed, leaflets those of the stem alternate,
with leaflets becoming narrower and more entire at the top.
The flowers terminate the stem in a raceme near a corymb
form. This plant is often sold for Lychnis Dioica (Ragged
Robin ), and is erroneously so named in published cata-
logues ; both are good border flowers, and deserve a place
in the flower garden or the parlor. The Cuckoo flower is
perfectly hardy and of easy culture, and is increased by
dividing the roots in July; each crown must be furnished
with root fibres, then planted in the shade to gain strength.
This plant is perfectly hardy, although cultivated in the
green-house, where it exhibits its beautiful flowers quite
early in the spring.

74 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

COBEA.

(SCANDENS.)

This is a fine running trellis plant, a native of Mexico,
where it is known as Gedra neorada, and may be consid-

ered the best of its species. The flowers are of a bell shape, -

at first of a dingy green, becoming a fine purple. The
leaves are alternate, equally pinnated, terminated with ten-
drils, leafiets egg-shaped, acute, quite ornamental in appear-
ance. ‘This plant is perennial in duration, grows freely by
seed and cuttings, and is rather tender; it should not be
planted in the open ground before May, and will run about
fifty feet in the season. ‘The Cobea, if planted by the side
of a wall, will naturally catch by its tendrils; still from the
nature and disposition of running so much, in wet seasons
if not fastened, it will break down by its own weight. If
this plant is intended for pot culture, in the summer it
should be allowed plenty of pot room, as the roots require
it, and the soil should be arich sandy loam. As this plant
strikes freely from cuttings it should be planted im the open
ground in summer, and in September take cuttings, which
will strike quick under a bell glass; they can then be potted
off and kept easily in a pit or the house. The culture is
easy, the plant fine, and worthy of cultivation, especially
with those who have plenty of room, affording a good shade,
besides its floral beauty.

af

CACTUS, 75

CACTUS.

(cacTL.)

_ This is a fine succulent variety of plants, of very singu-
lar appearance, natives of Brazil, and is found on the arid

plains of Mexico and other parts, particularly in sandy and

Bie

rocky situations ; perennial in duration, of rather tender and
delicate nature, though of easy culture; but is, strictly
speakmg, a green-house plant, and will survive our winters
in the parlor if not allowed to freeze or watered too much.
The generality of the Cacti do not like a damp situation
in the winter, therefore not calculated for pit culture. »
There is now in cultivation about one thousand varieties
beside hybrids; the flowers of some appear in March, are
certainly magnificent but not fragrant; still their beauty
shows to great advantage when kept by themselves in a
green-house. ‘There are some of this tribe called “ Night
Blooming Cereus,” that flower at night, highly odoriferous,
but their flowers last only one night. The one called
Grandiflora is a magnificent plant, a native of South Amer-
ica; when the corolla is fully expanded in the evening the
beholder is greatly surprised with the size of the floral de-
velopment, which will measure about twelve inches across
the color, on the inner side of the calyx; is a beautiful
clear sulphur yellow, while the petals are a virgin white ;
the stamens not easily described, for it appears of different
colors as you change your position to view its beauties.
The flower is not only beautiful but the fragance is so

76 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

great as almost to prevent a person approaching it in a con-
fined room.

The seed pod of the Cactus resemble in size and shapea
large red gooseberry when ripe, and is eatable; the flavor
is between the strawberry and pme apple. The seed should
be rubbed out of the pod when dry and planted in sand,
and will soon make their appearance; when of sufficient
size pot them, but withheld water from them for several
days. ‘The soil for grown plants should be a coarse sandy
loam, and the plants should be well drained; from August
to January will be a good time to repot; during that time
they should have but little or no water, much will depend
on the situation of the room where kept The Cactus is
easily raised from cuttings taken off in the spring, but
should not be planted for several days, even then should
not be watered until the pliant begins to grow. ‘This suc-
culent plant is easily grafted by cutting a slit in one variety
and sticking a piece of ancther in the place, cut like a
wedge; this should be done in the spring; and there will
be no need of using grafting wax as the graft will grow
without difficulty, and bloom more freely than when on its
own bottom. There is a large variety of the prickly pear
the best to graft on, and it is frequently the case we see
four varieties grafted on the same stalk, and when in bloom
the contrast of cclors give a pleasing appearance.

CENTUREA. vk d

CENTUREA.

This a large family of plants, natives of different parts of
the globe; the greater part are considered ornamental, bear-
ing flowers from June to October. ‘T'he neatest of this va-
riety is the Sweet Sultan, a native of Persia. Of this variety
there are three, white, purple, and yellow, growing about
eighteen inches high. The involucre roundish, smooth,
scales egg shaped, and the leaves lyrate and toothed; will
grow in any garden soil, but thrive best in a sandy loam.

CHINA ASTERS.

(ASTER CHINENSIS.)

“ How lovely! how commanding! but through Heaven
In every breast hath sown their early seeds
Of love and admiration; yet in vain,
Without fair culture’s kind parental aid,
Without enlivening suns and genial showers,
And shelter from the blast; in vain we hope
The tender plant should rear its blooming heaa,
Or yield the harvest promised in its spring,
Nor yet will every soil with equal stores
Repay the tiller’s labor.” =
This well known variety of Asters has been cultivated a
long time. and its incomparable beauty has established it as

78 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

one of the most desirable annuals we have in cultivation.
The German florists have paid more attention to this tribe
of Asters than the English, the former being more assidu-
ous to its real merit, and established a name, “ German As-
ter”’ that will be at the head of annuals to time immemorial.
The improvement is not only in size, but we see them beau-
tifully quilled and more splendid than the original China
Aster, making them almost a distinct species, and in all
about thirty varieties. |

‘“* All its hues,
From the rich sunset to the rising sun,
Their magical variety diffuse.”

I should suppose, out of the number in the English cata-
logues, there may be about sixteen distinct colors selected ;
for when so many are advertised it must necessarily occur
that the similitude in some must be great, for unless one is
a judge of colors the difference could not be perceptible.
This Aster flowers in August and September, and in favora-
ble weather until October, when the embellishment of their
beauty and regularity of form is not to be surpassed by any
annual in cultivation. The leaves are ovate, coarsely
toothed, stalked, the cauline leaves are sessile,cuncate at the
base; the stem is bifid and branching, with a single head;
the flowers various and quilled, giving them a gorgeous
display that approximates to perfection, making them appear
to the eye all that is magnificent. There are no encomiums
my poor ability could pay but what would appear insignifi-
cant to their deserved merit.

To cultivate this flower, if you wish for early ones, the
seed should be sown in a pan of light soil, and be placed in

- CHINA ASTERS. 179

a hot-bed in the month of March, and when sufficiently
large transplant into two inch pots and return them to the
hot-bed to be re-established, and these plants can be either

transplanted, without disturbing the roots, into the open
ground, or if intended to be flowered in pots you must con-
tinue to repot from time to time, as the roots fill them, un-
til you come to five inch pots, the one intended to flower in.
Fora second crop you must sow the seeds in the open ground
in April, and transplant them into a bed prepared for their
reception. It would be advisable to make the following
compost, if you wish extra flowers, but will grow in almost
any soil; one bushel of good garden soil, one peck leaf
mould, half peck old manure, three quarts sand. These
ingredients should be well incorporated and laid in a heap
for some time prior to using it. You.can either put this
compound in trenches in the garden, or in flower pots, and
great attention is required to keep this plant well watered
in dry weather. ’

CRAPE MYRTLE.

(LAGERSTR@MIA INDICA.)

This is a fine half hardy favorite shrub, a native of the
East Indies, requiring little or no trouble, will grow twenty
feet high in the Southern States, and will stand out all the
winter if protected; is readily propagated from cuttings
planted in the ground in spring in a shady situation, and

80 ‘A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

kept moist. This shrub is cultivated in the South, in the
open ground, and will grow in any garden soil, and flower
to great perfection through July and August, bearing a
bright pink flower of a singular and pleasing form, of a light
texture, much like a piece of crape, hence the name “ Crape °
Myrtle.” With those who have not the means of protecting
this plant in the open ground, they can pot them in the fall
and place them in the cellar; being deciduous do not feel
the removal. If cultivated in a pot,the soil should be a
rich loam, and must be potted and pruned every spring.

CANTERBURY BELL.

(CAMPANULA MEDIUM.)

“¢ Blue Bell! how gaily art thou drest,
How sweet and trim art thou, sweet flower;
How silky in thy azure vest,
How fresh to flaunt at morning’s hour.”

Of this variety of herbaceous and deciduous biennial
plants there are two varieties of single flowers and two dou-
ble, blue and white, fine ornamental border plants. The
stem is simple, diverging; the leaves lanceolate and serrat-
ed, sessiles viny, peduncles axillary, three flowered and ter-
minal, grows about two feet high, the flowers bell shaped;
the blue is azure, rich in color; the white extremely pure
and chaste. All the varieties have been great favorites
from the time first imported from Germany to the present

> le

CANTERBURY BELL. 81

time. This plant will grow in any common garden soil;
the seed should be sown in April, and be transplanted either
when small or in September, to where intended to flower,
and will withstand the rigor of the winter without injury,
and in June and July will exhibit their beautiful flowers.
This plant will do well if cultivated in a pot, and show to
great advantage in the parlor.

CROWN IMPERIAL.

(FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS.)

‘“‘ Meantime, the grandeur of thy lofty dome,
For splendor seizes on the ravished eye
New beauties rise, with each revolving Spring find
New plants to quicken, and new groves to green.??

This is a bulbous rooted plant of a majestic appearance,
bearing large flowers in March and April, throwing up a
stem two feet high, naked below; the leaves entire, with a
whorl of flowers near the top. This is one of the early
flowers commissioned to grace the appearance of the flower
garden early in the spring; embellishments like these are
truly acceptable. ‘There are several varieties graceful and
majestic in appearance, serving to heighten our sanguine
expectations at the approach of spring. The most common
is the red; the yellow most showy, exhibiting its beautiful
corollas at a distance, creating our applause by its embel-
lishment and pomp. The common variety has but one

f

82 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

whorl of flowers near the top, forming a crown; hence the
name of the flower. We have the crown on crown which
consists of two whorls of flowers, and crown on that, con-
sisting of taree whorls of flowers ; the latter are scarce and
dear. In making aselection get the red and yellow and
you will have distinct varieties; not so with many with
names, for in some will: be but a shade in color, and that
barely perceptible; or may be some difference in habit of
no moment in the common course of cultivation. This
flower, until of late, has been called “Crown Imperial,” but
is known now as Fritillaria Imperialis. 'This plant is an
old and acknowledged favorite, was introduced into Eng-
land before the time of Shakspeate, as the following lines
will show, which I extract from his Winters Tale :—

*¢ Bold oxlip, and
The Crown Imreriat; lillies of all kinds,
The fleur-de-luce being one.”

No doubt he mentioned this flower, being influenced by
its conscious beauty in enlivening the prospect of our spring.
We are indebted to Germany for this splendid acquisition
to our flower garden, which affords a secret satisfaction on
beholding its development at a season when the garden is
nearly deficient of floral beauties. |

This plant is easily propagated by offsets, and will grow
in any common garden soil. The best time to remove the
bulbs is when the stem dies down in June, or they may be
allowed to remain in the ground for two or three years, but
is best taken up every season and packed away until Octo-
ber. If allowed to remain they will deteriorate the soil,
which ought to be avoided in a small garden. If these

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— ROWN IMBORTAL, 83.

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Bias! © ‘CALCEOLARIA,

“Ye ret no deleterious scent it yields;
+. _ To cheer the garden or the field,

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*. Sita rather “ge on than caressed.’

ite nen and ee effect i in the
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84 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

common, for the care and delicacy required in their culture
will be a preventive. I would not recommend them to
amateurs on that account. Iam induced to do this from a
conviction that the disappointment so often met with in their
culture will serve to mar the hope or pleasure, than create
a taste for other flowers; perseverance is a great thing, and
and ought to be cherished, but difficulty and disappointment
will ever be a drawback to this species of plants.

The Calceolaria is propagated by seeds, cuttings, and di-
vision of the roots. ‘The seeds are very small, and should
never be covered nor watered with the water pot, the syr-
inge being preferable, which can be played on the pan of
seeds like a gentle shower; the pan should be kept in a
bark bed, the heat being so gentle and steady that every
seed will germinate. When the seedlings are of sufficient
size transplant them inta small pots. ‘The soil most suita-
ble is a maiden soil, with one sixth part sharp sand. By
division of the roots, July is the best time; in the division
let each crown be furnished with root fibres sufficient to
imbibe a proper nourishment. Toincrease by cuttings, July
is also the best time for the shrubby kinds, and will root
freely in a bark bed well shaded, and moderately watered ;
or maybe struck under a bell glass. The Calceolaria,
generally speaking, is very delicate and ought to be shaded
from the intense heat of the sun in the summer, but in the
winter season will require it in the morning. There is a
discriminating judgment necessary in iis culture, and par-
ticularly in watering, for too much is equally as detrimen-
tal as the want of that fluid. When this plant is infested
with the green fly it must be fumigated with tobacco, and
the next day syringed well all over, or your plant will die.

a

7 oF

CHINESE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 85

CHINESE CHRYSANTHEMUM.

(CHRYSANTHEMUM INDICUM.)

“ For him the spring
Distils her dews, and from the silken gem
Its lucid leaves unfold — for him, the hand
Of autumn tinges every fertile branch
With blooming gold, and blushes from her wings;
And still new beauties meet his lonely waik,
And loves unfelt attract him.”

This is one of our late and most desirable fall flowers;
desirable because it expands its beautiful flowers at a time
when others cease to cheer us, thus shedding an agreeable-
ness around our rooms, enlivening the monotony of the
gloomy months of November and December, making our
existence appear cheerful despite of

“Stern winter, clad in frost and snow.”

This plant is indigenous to Cochin-China, and cultivated
in the gardens in Japan. The first account of its introduc-
Ye was into France in the year 1754, and the following
“year it was imported into England; even these were but
indifferent flowers, compared with those in cultivation now.
Such was the sensation created by these flowers, that no
expense was spared to improve the quality and quantity.
The Chinese had about fifty kinds which were cultivated
by them to great perfection; large flowers being their prin-
cipal aim, and they never permitted more than one flower
to grow onastem. Some of the Chinese fastened their

86 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

stems with a wire, in as many different forms as the nature
of the plants would allow, and a stranger at a little distance
could not account for their symmetry being kept in such a
position. In 1808 Sir Abraham Hume and others intro-
duced eight new varieties of the finer quality. When we
consider how badly this plant bears packing, we need not
wonder at their not beimg introduced faster into Europe
than they were. There has been a great change in this
fall beauty of late years; we are no more dependent on
China for new varieties, as they are brought to seed in
France, the Isle of Jersey in the British Channel, and in this
country. From this circumstance new varieties are raised
every season. It is with regret that the quantity has elicited
more enthusiasm than the quality; therefore it is most de-
sirable for persons to purchase when in flower, unless you
take varieties that have proved good flowerers.

The Chrysanthemum is divided into the following clas-
ses: — Ranunculus flowered, 13 varieties ; in-curving Ra-
nunculus, flowered 6 varieties; China Aster flowered, 6
varieties ; Marigold flowered, 7 varieties; Tassel flowered,
11 varieties, and half double Tassel flowered, 5 varieties.
There are 48 varieties described in the Horticultural Trans-
actions in England, and additional varieties arranged in
the Gardener's Magazine. I do not know a flower that is
more calculated to please any person that has the least taste
for flowers than this, for we find it in almost every family,
and is the poor as well the rich man’s flower. Being easi-
ly cultivated makes it rather common, but does not impair
its beauty, or, like most common flowers, lessen its value in
the mind of the public, if it does the price. From the num-
ber of fine plants now in cultivation, a person can be fur-

CHINESE CHRYSAN THEMUM. 87

fished with first rate varieties at a moderate price. I notice
most of those plants cultivated five years since are thrown
‘away to make room for better ones. Many who possess
these plants, I discover, do not understand their culture to
advantage, and yet no plant is more simple. Many will
endeavor to produce the most flowers by planting more than
one in a pot, and by this means defeat the object.

The best plan is, at the end of April to take cuttings from
‘the tops, three or four inches long, and plant them in two

inch pots, one in each, and place them in a frame and cover

©

>

them with glass, or in a shady place, and water them free-
ly; they will soon strike root, and when the pot is filled

- with roots repot them into the next size; repeat this until

the pots are six inches, which will be large enough to flow-
erin. InJuly pinch off the top; this will cause them to
put out lateral shoots, and in August trim off all the laterals
but three, which will be sufficient for one pot, as these will
also put out laterals which should be permitted to grow.
The proper soil to raise Chrysanthemums in is one half old
manure, one half loam, with a portion of sand, the quantity
will depend on whether your loam contains sand. If you
plant them in open ground do not take them up until the
buds are well formed, and in damp weather. Planting in
beds is a good plan and will require no attention being paid
them all the summer, more than topping and trimming.
You must not let them remain in the ground for the early
frost to injure their buds. Fine dwarf plants are obtained
-by pegging them down at a joint in July; they will soca
- strike root, and be fit to pot in the middle of September, and
then brought into the house. Chrysanthemums, if planted
too close, whether in the ground or pots, will drop their

%, .

88 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

leaves; or if brought into the house too early the effect will
be the same; therefore keep them out of doors as long as
the frost keeps off, and you will find your labor well paid
by a splendid display of flowers. |

This plant is a greedy one, and requires a deal of water,
and such is the nature of the plant that you may water the
foliage in the middle of summer when the sun is shining
and it will appear to thrive the better, which is contrary to
the nature of other plants. Many will water this plant
with liquid manure, but I would not advise it unless by
a person of some experience, as the plants may be burnt
before you are aware of its tendency. I once saw a valua-
ble collection destroyed this way, which makes me add this
caution. The Chrysanthemum is sometimes propagated
by dividing the roots; this should be done in June, but the
plants raised this way are never as good as those by cut-
tings, nor their flowers as fine.

CROCUS..

This is a bulbous rooted plant, perfectly hardy, and of
easy culture. This family is composed of a great variety of
sorts and colors, all natives of Europe. Their complication
of colors in the early spring gives them a most agreeable
and imposing appearance, particularly as it is one of the
first flowers; is easily propagated by offsets or seeds, and
will grow in any garden soil without difficulty.

To propagate from seed it is important to sow them as

CROCUS. 89

soon as ripe, in a pan or box, broadcast; the seeds should
be lightly covered and sprinkled with alex and placed in
the garden alongside of the wall, giving them a southern
aspect, and keeping them moist until late in the fall when
the pan or box should be removed into a pit until the spring.
When the leaves appear, move them into the garden, pro-
tecting them from heavy rains and sudden frost. In May,
when the leaves die down, take off a little of the surface
soil and put fresh in its place. ‘The third year take them
up and treat them the same as full grown corms; the next
year you may expect them to flower. The Crocus is gen-
erally increased by offsets, which it will produce abundant-
ly, and in most cases will flower the following season.
The object in raising from seed is to produce new varieties,
but the operation is somewhat tedious, and not advisable, as
there are as many varieties now in cultivation as wil! satis-
fy any reasonable person, for there are now in cultivation
one hundred and twenty with names. The whole variety,
one of each, can be purchased in England for one dollar
and fifty cents. ,

The Crocus does very well planted between the rows of
Tulips, or in clumps in the border, diversifying the colors
so as to make a contrast. ‘The bulbs or corms should be
dibbled in about two inches deep, and may be allowed to
remain in the ground three years, and does well if the sea-
son be dry, if rainy will be apt torot. I have always found
the best and safest plan was to take them up dry, and pack
them in sand until October, aud then be planted the samme

time as other bulbs. It is frequently the case that many
_ bulbs are brought to this country from Holland, and kept

for sale at seed stores until spring-; persons should be cau-

<

90 A GUIDE-TO FLORICULTURE.

tious in purchasing them after November, although their
appearance is good; if planted after that time they will, in
most cases, rot, as the ground is then too cold to assist them
in striking root; that being the case, they will either rot or
flower weakly and die at last; it is like a man that has
been so long without food that nature has exhausted and
injured the vital part, nothing could restore that animation
necessary to create or reinstate again the proper function to
restore life. Bulbs of every description, if sold after the
proper season for planting, are dear at any price, therefore
purchase them at a proper season if you have to pay a
higher price; still you will find them cheapest in the end.

CANDYTUFT.

(IBERIS AMARA.)

This annual is an ornamental herbaceous plant, found
growing in the chalky fields in England; flowers in gene-
ral during the months of June and July; by planting the
seeds at different periods they can be brought to flower dur-

‘ing the whole summer. The leaves of this pretty orna-

mental border flower are lanceolate, acute, variable in the
toothing. The flowers forming a head, becoming race-
mous, the husk being well formed, will drop the seeds, if
precaution be not taken before all the flowers expand ; thus
making it absolutely necessary for those who collect seed
for sale to cut the stalk before two thirds of the flowers have

_
eae

CANDYTUFT. |

expanded. There are some varieties of the Candytuft, na-
tives of Candia, sweet scented and very desiraile.

_ This plant grows best in a rich soil, and if the seeds are
sown in September, the plants, with a light protection, will
‘survive the winter, flower earlier and more luxuriantly than
if sown in the spring. Those kept through the winter will

sow their own seeds and flower in the fall, thus securing

the second crop of flowers in one season. This plant is a
valuable hardy annual, well calculated for any garden.

CHINA PRIMROSE.

(PRIMULA SINENSIS.)

‘“‘ The piercing primrose, like sudden gladness,
Gleams on the soul.—”

“This is a very desirable perennial evergreen, of late intro-
duction, flowering from January to May. and is one of the
first plants to cheer the green-house or parlor, making it one
of the most welcome flowers we have, possessing much merit
as a showy flower, setting aside its claim as an early one.
There is a double variety in England, highly spoken of,
which will soon find its way into this country. This plant
differs widely from the English Primrose in color as wo"!
as habit. The leaves of this variety are pninate, stem
about three inches long and hairy. The scape about five
inches with a truss of beautiful pink flowers to the number
of twenty or thirty, if well grown. There is a white vari-

eS ate ANS hic BAL yi

92 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ety very showy; both are well suited fer the bouquet with
the Camellia, Pelargonium, in the early spring. When
this plant begins to flower, it should be placed in a saucer
of water, and it will bloom profusely through the season,
but should be removed as soon as the plant begins to flower
weakly. :

The China Primrose is increased by seed and by cut-
tings; if by seed the best time to sow them is as soon as
ripe, in a rich soil, and when three or four leaves are formed
they should be potted off into small size pots, and be shifted
as they increase in size. ‘To increase by cuttings, as soon
as the plants have done flowering, cut each stem as near the
pot as possible, into as many pieces as there are crowns,
plant them in a light rich soil in pots well drained, and
place them in the shade; keep them moist, and each will
root and make good flowering plants im the spring. In
September each should be potted into five inch pots, and be
removed into their winter quarters. ‘The soii best suited to
this plant is one half leaf mould, the balance sandy loam
and old manure from a cucumber frame. This plant is
tender and must be guarded against frost; the trouble at-
tending it is but little; it isa most profuse bloomer, and
every way desirable for parlor culture, and should be prized
as such.

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‘a : +

CHRYSANTHEMUM. 93

CHRYSANTHEMUM.

(ANNUAL. )

Of this beautiful variety of garden annuals there are three
of rather prepossessing appearance. The one called the
“Ox-Eye-Daisy” throws up a stem three feet high. The
leaves are smooth and of a deep green color; the flowers
solitary and terminate, stem branching, generally flowering
from May to August, seeding freely, and will grow in any
garden soil; the seeds should be sown in April. “The
Corn Marigold” is another variety of a more dwarf nature
than the other, striated and branching. The leaves are al-
ternate and varying in shape; the branches terminate with
large yellow flowers. Peduncles upright, calyx convex,
scales ovate, glaucous, the inner ones with large mem-
branous edges. This plant is also known as the Golden
Corn Flower, Yellow Bottle, &c., which arises from its beau-
tiful golden color and brilliancy of appearance in the flower
garden. Then we have the Tricolor, a native of Morocco,
which also grows readily from seed or by cuttings, and will
flower from July to October. 7

When this variety was first introduced into Europe, in
1796, it was treated as a tender stove plant, but like the
others it is now treated as a half hardy annual, and may
be recommended as a fine garden variety of flowering plants
of easy culture in any garden soil, and of showy appearance.

EO eee ee ep

See

94 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

CAMPANULA.

(PERSICIFOLIA. )

** The blue-bell by the meadow rill
Is not more fair than thou,

With thy downcast and thoughtful eye,

Thy pure and gentle brow.”

This Campanula is a valuable appendage to the flower
garden as well as the parlor, and is well known as the
“ Peach-Leaved Bellflower,” and what makes it more desir-
able is, it will stand out of doors, if in the ground, all the
winter, being perfectly hardy. The stem grows straight,
about eighteen inches high; when in the open ground
strong plants will attain two feet. This plant flowers in a
thin spike of one and two together, on a long peduncle
which has two stipules at the base. The corolla large and
broad, bell shape, deep blue; the segment short and acu-
minate. ‘The leaves similar to the peach, only more ser-
rated. This perennial is a native of Sweden, and has been
in cultivation in Europe ever since 1596. ‘There are two
other varieties, blue and white; the latter more double than
the former, which has not been cultivated over sixty years.

These plants require a rich sandy loam, and are increased
by dividing the roots in the fall) This Campanula, with.
good treatment, will flower nearly all the summer, and if
kept in the shade the flowers will last much longer. Every
lady should be furnished with this plant, it being ornamen-
tal, of easy culture, and moreover, being evergreen, their ap-
pearance is always interesting in the parlor as well as the
flower garden. ~

COLUMBINE. 95

ea COLUMBINE.

(AQUILEGIA.)

* Yes, lovely flower, I find in thee
Wild sweetness which no words express,
And charms in thy simplicity,
- That dwell not in the pride of dress.”

. This splendid deciduous herbaceous plant is a perennial,
and bears flowers of innumerable colors from May to July ;
it is anative of this country and Siberia. Its habit is ex-
tremely graceful, growing about two feet high, throwing
its flowers well up above the foliage, which is covered
with a viscid down, the spurs of the flowers incurved, giv-
ing them a very interesting appearance.. This plant, from
its easy culture, has established a merit possessed but by
few border flowers. The seeds should be sown as soon as
ripe, or early in the spring, in any common garden soil, and
transplanted in September. The flowers are well calcula-
ted for bouquets in their season, on account of their grace
and beauty. This plant is sometimes propagated by divid-
ing the roots in the spring, which often kills them, a plan
not advisable with a good flower. The Columbine sports,
and therefore produces, a great variety of colors; the single
variety is not worth garden room; the second season is
considered the best for flowering, being more abundant than
any other year. When these plants are grown, innumer-
able seedlings will spring up from the scattered seeds,
which should be transplanted as directed.

96 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

CARDINAL FLOWER.

(LOBELIA CARDINALIS.) .

“Sweet flower! for by that name at last,
When all my reveries are past,
I call thee =

This beautiful perennial is a native of this country,
growing and blooming to great perfection in swampy places
in Indiana and Ohio, and other parts; it attams the height of
two to three feet, bearing a spike of flowers of a bright
scarlet in the month of July, and evento September. Such
is the brilliancy of the colors, that the eye is dazzled with
their splendor when the sun shines on them. It is surpris-
ing that this plant, a native, and of such beautiful magni-
tude, should not be more noticed than it is. In Europe it
is grown to great perfection; it 1s easily propagated by
seeds or cuttings of the flower stem before flowering, and
by suckers at the root in the fall. Seeds should be sown
in the fall or early in the spring, in a pan or box; the seed
should never be covered with the soil, and the soil should
be kept damp, and a rich loam is necessary to grow good
plants. When the plants appear in the spring they should
be kept in the shade to gain strength; when of sufficient
size, which will be in May, the plants should be potted off.
To propagate by cuttings, it should be done before the
flowers expand, by taking the flower stems and cut them
into suitable lengths, say two or three joints, stick them
into a pan, and cover them with a bell glass, and admit air

| i
%

CARDINAL FLOWER. 97

asthe cuttings begin to grow. To divide the roots or sucke
ers, the fall is the best time; protect them through the
winter ina pit. This plant is naturally hardy, but protec-

tion is best for those in pots. In the latter part of March,

bring them forward and place them in a saucer of water ;
being a swamp plant they should be kept as near its natu-
ral state as possible, guarding them against the spring frost,
and you will be rewarded with one of the finest displays of
flowers in cultivation. This fine flowering plant, if the pro-
duction of some foreign country, would be one of our lead-
ing pot plants; being a native, the florists of this country
do not appreciate its merits.

CARNATION.

(DIANTHUS CARYOPHYLLAS.)

* E’en then she seemed a lovely flower,
Though fragile was the stem;
She stands in beauty’s garden now,

Its proudest diadem.??

The Camation is an old established perennial of high
reputation ; it is an evergreen herbaceous plant, flowering
in June and July; stem branching, flowers solitary, the
leaves channelled and linear, possessing all the attributes
necessary for a florist’s flower, at the head of which it stands
pre-eminent. This flower was long supposed to be in-
digenous to England, but of late its parentage is attrib-

9

98 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

uted to Germany ; although its having been found in a wild
state in some parts of England, is not sufficient proof,
as the seed may have been dropped by accident. There
are more grounds to suppose at this date that little is known
of its wild state, for the first notice to be traced of this
flower is that it was imported from Poland m 1597; even
in that country it cannot be traced; Germany bemg the
nursery bed of so many beautiful flowers, I have no doubt
that country is the origin of it, from whence it found its
way to Poland, from thence to England. From the first
introduction, this plant established an unrivalled merit asa
first class flower, and may be considered one of the great-
est gifts for the flower garden, notwithstanding there are
many productions which nature has created for the enjoy-
ment of mankind ; their fragrance is a gratification unsur-
_passed, to our senses; the graceful appearance of the flow-
ers is all that is dignified, giving unlimited satisfaction to
the eye in their beautiful arrangement of colors which are
so diversified in their floral greatness. There are features
in this flower not enumerated in many others, whether we
consider it a garden plant that is in the bed or border, or
even the parlor, during the blooming season, from its long
duration in developing, and after the flower be fully ex-
panded, that impresses the beholder with a sense of its
magnitude. Yes! commissioned, as this flower is, to charm
the amateur with fragrance, grace, beauty, and all the attri-
butes appertaining to the choicest flower in cultivation, it
matters not so much whether this country or that has the
honor of its patronage, the florist must feel grateful, on re-
flection, that we really possess it. ‘I'o propagate this beau-
tiful perennial from seed, is by no means a pleasing task;

f

7 CARNATION, 99

it is filled with disappointment; even when you procure the
best seed from choice flowers, the probability is that you
‘will get single flowers, or, if double, they may not prove bet-
ter than a common pink, for we find that men who follow
raising Carnations for sale asa living, that annually save and
‘sow their own seed, completely fail. ‘Take twelve of the most
successful of these gardeners, and you will find on an aver-
age that they have not raised six eee flowers during their
lives. With this fact before a person’s eyes, it is futile for
amateurs to throw away so much time and labor, besides
expense, on such uncertainty, when all the varieties so de-
sirable can be purchased, taking a choice of the labors of
_ hundreds of gardeners for about two hundred and fifty
years. When you have good flowers, the best way is to
increase your stock by layering, just as the flowers are on
the wane in July, and so continue through the month of
August, but the sooner the better. The operation is per-
formed in the following way :—the night before, or twenty-
four hours previous, water your plants copiously, by this
means your plants will be more pliable and bend to the
operation with greater facility, if not, your plants will be
brit‘le, and snap off, frustrating your object. The soil,
where your plants are to be layered, should be light and
rich, on the surface in particular; then get some sticks with
a creck at one end, and the other sharp, to pin the part
firmly {o the ground; when this is done, take a sharp pen-
knife wad make a slit in the lower part of the branch next
to the soil, commencing in the centre of a joint, cutting
up the riddle near to the next joint, then take the peg and
. fasten nf to the ground, leaving the slit open, bringing the
; top of ihe branch as near upright as you can conveniently

e Piet ~ 7

100 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

without breaking it off, then cover the plant about half an
inch, continue in this way until you have layered as much
of the plantas desired. In layering any plant it is best only
to cover the joint, by this means the sun and air having
their influence on them, will make them throw out root
fibres more readily; this is caused by the sap running up
the shoot, and when descending, not being able to return
to the roots, will naturally cause the slit to form fresh root
at the joint cut for that operation. In layering the Carna-
tion it is best to leave one branch not layered, for sometimes
heavy and continued rains will rot them off, and you would
lose your plants. You will find it best to make provision
against extremes in the weather. After your plants are all
layered, give them a gentle watering to settle the earth around
them. In this country it is necessary to give them a little
watering morning and evening, provided the weather is dry
and warm. In about four or five weeks examine your layers,
and if well rooted, they may be taken off and planted in the
open ground to gain strength, until the latter part of Sep-
tember, and then pot them off, one into a three inch pot or
two plants into a four inch one; the latter will take up less
room for the winter. It is frequently the case in layering
the Carnation that some of the branches will snap off, not-
withstanding all the precaution used, when it will be
necessary to pipe them, which is done in the following
way :—geta large pan or box twelve inches across, and fill
it with arich soil, mixed with one third sand, then take
your pieces to be piped and cut them clean off at the third
joint, and throw them into a basin of cold water for about
ten minutes, then water the soil to settle it well, then take
a bell glass and mark its size on the soil; this being done

CARNATION. 101

take the pipings and stick them into the soil within the
mark of the glass; the pipings will readily enter with-
out danger of breaking, for being immersed in water
gives them firmness; when all are in, give them a gentle
watering to settle the soil around them; when the grass of
the piping is dry, put on the bell glass to exclude the air,
and place them in the shade. It will. be necessary to take
off the glass occasionally to water them; the glass should
never be replaced while the plants are wet. When you
perceive the plants begin to grow, you must begin to ad-
mit air; in about six weeks, the pipings, under favorable
circumstances, will be ready to transplant, and may be
treated the same as full grown plants. The Carnation is
perfectly hardy in Europe, but requires protection in this
country, as the rain and snow will destroy them, therefore
they ought to be kept during the winter season in a dry
place. The last of March, if the weather be fine, it: will
be necessary to take them out of their winter quarters,
and pot them off singly, or plant them out in the open

_ ground. If intended to flower in pots, the soil most con-
genial for their prosperity is a rich sandy loam with a
good drainage. If the pots are sunk in the ground to
the rim until the flowers begin to expand, it will save
much trouble; then remove them into the house or a shady
situation; it will preserve the flowers longer, and their
colors continue more brilliant. When the plants are kept
in the ground or in pots, as they spindle up to flower, they
will require a stick, and be tied up as the stem advances.
‘Most of the finest flowers have a tendency to burst out on
one side; should this be the case, take a sharp pointed
knife and ease the opposite side to make them open evenly,

102 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

or take a small piece of bass matting and tie it round the
flower bud, this will preserve a good symmetry in their ap-
pearance; at the same time, water the plants freely in the
pots while the buds are swelling, and during the time the
flowers are expanded. ‘The Carnation is divided into three
classes :—the bizzair has a white ground with stripes or
spots of two colors; flakes also have a white ground, with
a stripe of one color running through the petal; the
picoteé, or pencilled, have a white or yellow ground;
the edges of the petals are beautifully pencilled with pur-
ple, crimson, or red, and considered by many the? most
enchanting. The character of the Carnation may be
summed up in a few words:—the stem should be from.
thirty to forty-five inches high, the foot-stalk of the flower
elastic and strong, the flower not less than three inches in
diameter, well formed, the petals not too crowded nor too
thin, the calyx strong, one inch in length, keeping the
base circular, rising half an inch above the calyx; the
outer petals should be long and broad, rising perpendicular
half an inch above the calyx, then reflex gracefully just
enough to support or make sufficient room for the inner
petals, giving the whole flower a convex, nearly forming a
half globe. The outer petals, of course, should be the
largest, and without notches or fringed. ‘The picotee, in
this respect, is an exception to thisrule. The most propor-
tionate colors in each petal, and free from spots, the better
the flower. Pink, scarlet, and purple are the most prevail- .
ing colors in the Carnation; pimk and scarlet -are often
blended in the same flower, but the scarlet and purple
very seldom. When the plant is troubled with the green
fly, it should be syringed with soap:suds, or take a camel’s

- CARNATION, © 103

hair pencil and brush them off. This plant is frequently
injured by the earwig and caterpillar destroying the flower
‘buds; if you find your plants troubled with them, you
will readily find them on the plant after night, and they must
be destroyed, or your flowers will; therefore, watch them
regularly, for it is a common occurrence to have the buds -
destroyed in one or two nights.

CHINA PINK.

(DIANTHUS CHINENSIS.)

‘ -
“On me such beauty summer pours,
That I am covered o’er with flowers.”

This herbaceous biennial is a native of China, and
flowers all the summer; it is quite ornamental, and was
imported into Europe one hundred years ago, and is easily
propagated from seed. The stem branching, flowers soli-
tary, scales linear, leafy, petals rather smooth and jugged,
leaves linear lanceolate, thrives best in a rich soil. The
beauty of this flower ought-to make it a general favorite
with amateurs. This pink is deficient in odor; are we to
this simple circumstance to attribute such wilful neglect ?
if nature has withheld a fragrance, their beauty compen-
sates for that deficiency, which is not the case in all flowers,
nor is there a sameness in the flower, their colors differ-
ing materially. This plant exhibits a wonderful diversity,
more so than any in cultivation, which is a great recom-

104 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

mendation to command general notice. In some respects
this plant resembles the Sweet William, and at times | am
inclined to think it a cross from that flower, though the
flowering appears greatly different, as the one throws up a
corymb of flowers similar in appearance to the head of a
Cauliflower, when the Pink branches out with a single
flower. The China Pink is susceptible of much improve-
ment by hybridizing, and I recommend it to all lovers of
showy flowers. The first season will enable you to judge
the merit of the flower ; this, like most double flowers, will
also produce some single, and those generally remarkably
pretty ; that should be no consideration, throw them over
the fence, save none but what are double. The second
season, place some of your plants along side of the Sweet
William, by which means the Pink will cross without fur-
ther trouble ; this is styled natural crossing, as the pollen
will.scatter without artificial means, and the seed of the
China Pink will produce a mule or hybrid ; the beauty of
the two combined makes one of the most magnificent
plants in cultivation; but the misfortune is they flower so
luxuriantly, as to die at the close of the second season
still there is a consolation, the mule Pink is‘easily obtained,
this alleviates a portion of that regret we should otherwise
feel. It is surprising that gardeners have never taken this
flower under their care, for we see them cultivate flowers
of less merit, and some scarcely worth picking up in the

street. Does this not show a want of taste ? or can it arise:

from the easy manner in which it is propagated? The
seed of the mule Pink I could never get to germinate ; this
is frequently the case with hybrids that are double. To
propagate the China Pink, the seeds should be sown in

ile

CHINA PINK. 105°

March, in a rich, light soil; when the plants are about one
inch high, transplant them round the border, or in a bed;
the border is preferable, for when the flower expands, if
single, it can be pulled up and replaced with some others,
which would not appear so wellif in a bed. Save none but
double, for, rest assured, if you allow any single to remain, ©
the seed of your double will be good for nothing. The
benefit will result the second season, which is the best
time to save seed, for the most double will seed more
freely than those of the first. Seeds of the second year
will produce unquestionably better plants, and will aver-
age two-thirds double flowers, while those of the first
will not produce one-third ; and if the single be allowed
to remain in the bed, the probability is that all will
prove single; a want of this knowledge is why this de-
lightful biennial has been neglected. The mule of. the
China Pink and Sweet William will generally produce
_ their flowers so luxuriantly as to cover the foliage, im-
parting a most gorgeous sight rarely seen in other
flowers. The China Pink is perfectly hardy, still, like
many other flowers, protection will improve their oy
and flower earlier. |

106 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

CAROLINA PINK

(SPIGELIA MARILANDICA.)

*‘ T love thee, yes, as flowers love light and air,
As night to stars, or earth the glorious sun,
As the cherished heart loves lone and earnest prayer,
So I love thee ——.””

This is a perennial, rooted, herbaceous plant, a native of
this country. There is something prepossessing in the ap-
pearance of this native flower, not only from the singularity
of its appearance, but it may be considered ornamental
withal, and is becoming a favorite. The root fibres branch
and are thrown off some distance, and several stems arise
from the roots about two feet high, with a spike of flowers

of a beautiful carmine crimson, in the shape of a funnel.

The flowers being situated all on one side of the stem,
the weight of which bend. it m a graceful form, consist-
ing of ten to twenty in number. The leaves are opposite,
without foot stalls, ovate, lanceolate, and smooth. The ca-
lyx of the flower is persistent, with five long subulate serrate
leaves turning back, of a yellow color, giving a contrast
novel and striking to the eye; the stamens short and insert-
ed inacup; anthers oblong heart shape, the germ ovate;
style the length of the corolla, ending in a linear fringed
stigma projecting beyond it; a double capsule consisting of
cohering globular celled portions containing the seed. his
plant has been used extensively for its medicinal properties
as a cathartic, and in some cases has proved rather detri-

CAROLINA PINK. 107

‘mental than beneficial; this, no doubt, was through the ig-
norance of pretenders in medicine; from the general use it
is in, there can be no danger in the hands of a medical man
of good standing. As a vermifuge, the properties of this
plant are excellent, as was well known to most of the Indi-
ans upon the settlement of this country by the white people.
Setting aside its medicinal properties, this plant is cultivated
with no trouble in any garden soil, and is a very desirable
flower, and is bound to be a favorite in the garden.

*

DOUBLE DAISY.

(BELLIS PERENNIS.)

“Thrice welcome, little English flower!
Ill rear thee with a trembling hand;
Oh! for the April sun and shower,
The sweet May-dews of that fair land | .
Where daisies, thick as starlight, stand
In every walk! that here might shoot
Thy scions, and thy buds expand,
A hundred from one root!”

es

| |

This was once a very popular perennial herbaceous flow-
ering plant, and still has many admirers. A person trav-
elling in England would be delighted to see in what per-
fection the cottagers of that country manage them in a bor-
der of the pleasure garden; it is truly delightful, so unpre-
tending the flower, yet how beautiful the appearance.
There are no less than six varieties; the most. common is

ee

— $08 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

called the “ Hen and Chickens,” from the circumstance that
yound the outer whorls emanate a great many small flowers,
giving the whole quite an ornamental appearance, at the ©
same time a singularity not easily described. The Daisy
throws up a scape about four inches high, naked and smgle
flowered; the leaves being spatulate, obovate, crenate.
This flower is but little cultivated in this country; this may
arise as much from a want of knowledge of their culture as
any thing else. The Daisy should be kept in the shade
and be repotted spring and fall with what gardeners call
maiden soil. This is easily attained by goimg into the
meadows, and taking off the turf, then you come to the soil
described ; but do not dig below three inches, after the turf
is taken off With the use of this soil, and a shady situa-
tion, your plant will thrive. One thing is to be observed;
you must consider this plant a parlor one, for it will not
stand the severity of the winter in this country. It is in-
creased by dividing the roots in the fall.

DAHLIA.

(GEORGINA. )

“ Her matchless wealth of beauty beggars all
Our courtly dames can boast! her queenly form,
Her majesty of mein, would grace a throne.”

The Dahlia is a perennial of much beauty, and has ere-
ated more excitement than any other flower since the Tulip

> anor

DAHLIA. . 109

mania. It is tuberous rooted, throwing up a stem from two
to eight feet high, depending on the kind, season, situation,
and soil; it bears innumerable quantities of flowers, beauti-
fully diversified in color, from pure snow-white to black, or
nearly so, with all the shades intervening; not only selfs,
that is of one color, but some most magnificently variegat-
ed, tipped, or striped. The stem branching and the leaves
vary in shape nearly as much as the flowers. Although
nature has given this plant great scope in variety of color,

there has not been one produced of an azure blue, a:color

rarely found in any plant that produces a clear yellow.
There are some exceptions to this rule ; the amateur should
not be discouraged as it may be obtained; if so, it would
produce a fortune to the person that raised it, if sold in Eu-
rope. ‘The price set on the flower in this country, that is,
on seedling Dahlias, is not commensurate to the trouble the
merit of the flower would deserve. It is a formidable rival
to the queen of flowers, the “Rose ;” in grace and brilliancy
of bloom is its superior, and it only lacks perfume to prove
its superiority to all others in the floral world.

‘This gorgeous flower is a native of Mexico. It was in-
troduced into Europe about fifty years ago, and was, by-

some mismanagement, lost; the seed was re-introduced

again by Lady Georgina Holland, and was named after her; »
but the name previously given was Dahlia, after a celebrat-
ed botanist of the name of Dahl, which appears to retain its
prerogative up to the present time. Humboldt, in his trav-
els in Mexico, says it is found growing in the meadows and
plains of that country, of all colors, but the flowers are sin-
gle. Cultivation has made them double, the same as the
Helianthus of this country, by which’ means the whole

110 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

world has been bountifully supplied with the choicest
kinds. Long catalogues are issued annually, containing

many thousands; and no flower ever cultivated has been

the cause of more imposition on the public than this, aris-

ing from tricks played on them by the exorbitancy of
the florist,,which has consequently injured its reputation.

Persons in the habit of selling Dahlias in England for gar-.
deners, have been compelled to sell with a warranty that

the flower shall answer the description given in the cata-

logue; in most cases of late the money has been refunded

and the gardeners have been the losers by their “tricks m .
trade.” We do not, therefore, see so many advertised now
as several years back. ‘There are not more than forty that
are true to their character as represented; the season has
some effect on their perfection, and persons wishing to~ob-
tain a collection should see them growing, and examine
their habits. To select from a stand exhibited in any place
is impolitic, for a plant may have but one good flower ma
- season, which may captivate your admiration, or the plant
may be a shy bloomer, not worth garden room, thus creat-
ing disappointment instead of pleasure.

‘This interesting flower is easily raised by com or divid-
ed at the root, or by cuttings. ‘To raise from seed it is ne-
cessary to sow them in March, in a light, rich soil, and
when four léaves are formed, prick them out and pot them
separately until June; give them every encouragement in
their growth, and then plant them out; treat them like other
plants, and they will flower the first season, If you find the
flowers single, throw them away. No plant is worth saving
unless double and superior to any of the same color in cul-
tivation. This renders the raising from seed rather dis-

.» DAHLIA. M11

couraging to a young beginner, and in fact it certainly is
poor business, as plants already raised can be purchased
cheap, enabling a person to procure a good selection at a
moderate price.

_ The principal reason the Dahlia has not succeeded better
in this country is, that persons having roots are anxious for
early flowers, and generally take the greatest pains to defeat
their object. Gardeners, to satisfy the public demand for
early flowers, have been compelled, at the sacrifice of their
judgment, to propagate for the sake of selling their plants.
It should be observed that the Dahha is an autumn not a
spring flower, and should, therefore, never be planted in the
open ground before June. If the rule here laid down be
followed, there will not be that complaint which has here-
tofore existed. ‘There is no general rule without some ex-—
ception. It happens, sometimes, that early planting suc-
ceeds, but only in rainy seasons; for, if planted early, and
we have a dry season, the plants will attain their growth in.
July or early in August, and consequently be attacked by
the red spider. That insect lives and breeds on the under
side of the leaves, which, for want of a proper circulation of
sap, soon perish, thus defeating the desired object. In late

planting, your plants will not attain their growth before

- the last of August, when the nights begin to get cool; they
will then flower more profusely, amply compensating for

_ all the trouble bestowed on them. The best application for
destroying the red spider is whale oil soap, two pounds to

- fifteen gallons of water, syiinged under the leaves as soon
as they begin to turn yellow.

7
%
ee a a

be Pee & ALE ele | a

112 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

TO PART THE ROOTS.

This is the most advisable way to propagate for ama-
teurs. In May, take the roots and plant them in the open
ground, leaving the crown, or part where the eyes are situ-
ted, out; you will soon see them sprout, and, when suffi-
ciently developed, take thern up and divide the root with a
knife, so as to leave one eye to every tuber. Then put
them in pots until the time of planting, and water occa-
sionally, just to keep them ina growing state. At the
same time, be sure to keep the plants out of the reach of
frost by covering them up, or you will lose them.

TO CULTIVATE BY SLIPS.

For this mode of cultivation it is necessary to prepare
a hot bed, in April, of stable manure, in-the usual way, as
you would to raise early vegetables, and when the heat is
about half spent, which will be in about ten days, put in
the roots, leaving the crowns out of the soil. When your
sprouts are three or four inches long, slip them off with
the thumb, or a knife; then place your slips in a thumb
(two inch) pot filled with a light soil (only one in each
pot), and return it to the hot bed, giving plenty of water,
and only sufficient air to keep them from damping off In
three weeks you will find them sufficiently rooted to be
repotted into a larger one. ‘They’should then be placed
in a frame and hardened gradually. In this way you may
continue as long as your plants will sprout. Those sprout-
ed first will make the best plants; for the more the plants

DAHLIA. 113

are taken off, the weaker they will be. Plants struck with
bottom heat will never produce such good flowers, or such
healthy plants, as those struck in the open ground, and
divided. oe :

Mgt ~
» 2

THE SOIL,
~ Much has.been said and written on this subject. I have
found a sandy loam to be the best for general culture.
The Dahlia, like the Rose, will accommodate itself to
almost any soil, still it must be admitted that at will make
some difference in its culture, for if your Dahlias are selfs,
that is, flowers of one color, such as Matchless (Weller’s)
Calliope, Admiral Stopford, Countess of Liverpool, and the
like, to enrich the soil a little will make their colors more
brilliant. For Dahlias of two colors, such as Alba purpu-
rea, Striata formosissima, Bride’s Maid, Lady St. Mauer,
or any other variegated flower, if planted in rich soil, their
colors will run, that is, the variegation will not be so dis-
tinct as in a poorer soil. A sandy loam for general culture
is best, and will retain moisture the longest, which in dry
weather is desirable. :
After the Dahlias are planted, you will find it of great

advantage to place old manure on the top for a foot around

the plant, to keep the roots moist in dry weather. It would
be a great advantage to drive your stakes prior to putting
your plants in; by this means you would not destroy the
roots. Never allow but one stem to grow from one tuber.

10

114 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.
TAKING UP. ROOTS.

In taking up your roots in the fall, it is frequently done
too hastily ; you will find it of advantage, just before you
expect a frost, to take a spade and cut the ends of the
tubers, This will not affect the flowers or the plant, but
will have a tendency to ripen the tubers sooner. When
the foiiage is black with the frost, cut them down to within
three inches of the ground, and lay the haulm over the
roots as a protection from the frost. In eight or ten days

your plants may be taken up; but be careful and label as -

you take them up, to enable you to know one plant from
ancther at any time. Place the roots in a room for about
two weeks, to dry; then pack them in a barrel with some
hay, and then in a cellar or room out of the reach of frost.

In the month of January, if the weather is mild, it will
be necessary to examine the roots, and, if mouldy and
likely to rot, they should be dried in the sun, and then re-
packed. In the coldest parts of Europe it isa common
practice to bury them in the ground like potatoes, a plan
I would recommend to persons living in the country, who
have no cellars.

DANDELION. 115

~ DANDELION.

(LEONTODON TARAXACUM.)

' © Thine, full-many a pleasing bloom
Of blossoms lost to all perfume;
Thine, the dandelion flowers,
Gilt with dew, like sun with showers ”

The Dandelion is a common weed on the commons and

meadows. ‘The outer scales of the involucre are bent
back, the leaves runcinate, glabrous, toothed, throwing up a
stem six inches high, with a yellow flower at the extreme.
When the seed is ripe, it forms a ball, and each seed is fur-
nished with a soft down, and is easily carried a great dis-
tance in the air by the wind. This will account for the
plant being so abundant in all directions. How frequently
are the productions of nature used for the benefit of the
living ; even to the assistance of the lover, for in their time ©
of uncertainty do we see the fair sex, when anxious to
know if the object their “ soul holds most dear,” retains one
kind remembrance of them, will take the scape with the
matured seed, blow it gently, and if there remains one or
more tufts of seed, their soft and tender feelings, prompted
by curiosity, seem satisfied that their anticipations are re-
ciprocated, thus giving a decisive satisfaction, once mantled
with fear, making their love flow more smoothly through a
complication of uncertainty.

Linneus considers this plant more recular i in expanding
its flowers than any yet known. On careful examination,

116 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

it will be found to possess more perfection than is generally
accorded to it, because the familiar intercourse we have
daily with this flower, deprives it of the attraction that
scarcity alone could discover, and then it would be indis-
pensable to the parterre. If the Anemone were placed
alongside of this flower, setting the color aside, the Ane-
mone would be considered the less attractive of the two.
What operates against this plant is, its being devoid of agree-
able ordor, and the color simple. Why should not cultivation
improve this as well as other plants? Attention to this
particular has done much in many instances; but the
florist that would attempt to improve this flower, by taking
it from its rural state, would meet with derision. Popular
prejudice would be.against him. While one might consider
it ornamental, another might hold the reverse opinion. I
cannot say my ambition would ever induce me to attempt
to establish it in my garden, whatever its merits; still that
does not deprive the flower of any merit appertaining to
so common a plant. Education has established a con-
tempt that all the florists in the country cannot eradicate.
I remember, that when in the country on a visit, at dinner
there was a new variety of vegetables (so called) on the
table, and my opinion was solicited in regard to their merit.
I thought them quite agreeable, for early vegetables in the
spring, and was greatly surprised when informed that they
were the Dandelion. I found them much better than some
purchased in market at a costly price; yet, notwithstanding
the agreeable flavor, my mind was so prejudiced, I could
never be brought to eat them in the city, so strong is the
effects of education. In this country, and in many other
parts, this plant is popular for its medicinal qualities, being

DANDELION. 417

3

considered tonic, diuretic, and aperient; it has a specific
action on the lives resolving its chronic engorgements
when languid, and is used more especially when the de-
rangement of the hepatic system and digestive organs are
impaired. In chronic inflammation of the liver, or de-
ficiency of bile, and dropsical affections, it is used with
decided success. The Dandelion is generally used in the
form of extract or decoction, by boiling the root (after slicing
it) down to one half,

FAIR-EYE.

(CALLIOPSIS. )

Of this family of annual flowering plants, there is a
great variety, flowering from June until cut down by the
frost. 'They are natives of this country. Their general
appearance is pleasing and showy, being hardy, erect, and
branching, rather slender in growth, from one to two feet
high; the flowers yellow, with brown centre. The best
of this variety is C. drummondii; it is of dwarf habit and
large flowers, not exhibiting that naked and loose appear-
ance so apparent in the stem of other varieties. The whole
of the Calliopsis will grow in-any garden soil, and in bet-
ter perfection if the seed be sown in September, as the
young plants will survive the winter, and in the early spring
can be removed to where they are wanted to flower. In

118 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

addition to the annuals, there are several varieties that are
perennial, equally ornamental, which require much the
same treatment as the generality of perennials.

FOXGLOVE.

(DIGITALIs. )

‘The Foxglove and the fern,
How gracefully they grow,
With grand old oaks above them,
And wavy grass below.”

The Foxglove is a beautiful perennial rooted, flowering
plant, with rough leaves, throwing up an erect stem about
three feet high. The flowers are spiked and numerous, at
the same time very showy, bearing a beautiful purple
flower, in their native state, while some in cultivation
have receded from that deep richness to a bluish color.
There is also a yellow, rather small and dingy, not worth
the trouble of cultivating. The leaves of the Foxglove
are ovate pointed, from four to eight inches long, and about
half of that in width; the foot stalk is short and winged,
—ithe upper are alternate and lanceolate, and obtusely
serrated at the edges, with a rough surface of a deep
green color, the under part more downy than the upper.
The flowers are numerous and connected with the stem by
short peduncles hanging down; each flower is of a bell
form, or rather like the finger of a glove; the inner side of

:
J

the flower is beautifully spotted with black, on a whitish
ground ; the whole filament is surrounded by yellow an-
thers; the style is simple and supports a bifid stigma; the
seeds are contained in two celled capsules.

The Foxglove is a native of the South of England; and
delights in a shady situation, particularly under trees, but
will grow very well in the open ground in any common
garden soil. Under these circumstances it must be con-.
sidered a very desirable plant in the garden, and is so hardy
as seldom to be injured by frost.

To propagate it, the seeds should be sown in the open
ground in April, and be transplanted to where it is intended
to flower. When the plants acquire a few leaves, they
will stand the winter, if sown in the fall; but there is no
advantage gained by sowing in the fall, as they will not
flower any earlier. Fyrom the facility with which this plant
is raised from seed, it is hardly worth while to divide
the roots, as is often done with old plants in the fall.
Seedlings will produce the best flowers, and my experi-
ence leads me to consider it more as a’biennial than a
perennial. is

The Foxglove possesses medicinal properties, which
should be known to those who cultivate it for ornament,
as it may prevent bad results, as children at times will pick
flowers and leaves and eat them, without the parent being
aware of the danger. The flowers are without fragrance ;
the leaves, when dried, acquire a narcotic odor, and are a
pale green, with a bitter and nauseous taste. When used
as a medicine, they may be valuable in a skillful hand, but
with empirics may prove a deadly poison. It often hap-
pens that this plant, wh.a used as a medicine, will not act

_ FOXGLOVE. 119

120 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

on the system as required; therefore, several doses are
often administered before any action takes place in the
patient; this being the case, unless the physician be a
scientific man, it may cause stupor or delirium, prostration
of strength, and other symptoms, indicating the presence
~ of a deadly poison. j

FORGET-ME-NOT.

(MYOSOTIS PALUSTRIS.)

‘¢ Lay to thy heart this token-flower,
~ With love’s own tears its leaves are wet,
T will whisper, in its dying hour,
Do not forget.”

This beautiful little deciduous herbaceous plant. is indi-
genous in marshy grounds in England, and like other
weeds, considered of little merit, until the florist points
out its intrinsic beauty. The root is perennial, the calyx
fine toothed, rather smooth, teeth equal, obtuse, as long as
the tube of the corolla; leaves Janceolate, smooth, the calyx
half the size of the limb of the corolla. It flowers from

April -to August, of a beautiful azure blue. Veronica _

chamedrys is often imposed on people not acquainted with »

the plant, for the former ; this is also a native of England ;
the treatment of this is widely different. : It is found grow-
ing on dry banks, and flowers from May to July, throwing
up a spike with ten to twenty bright blue flowers, nearly a
foot high, possessing ccnsiderable merit for their beauty

a. fk

FORGET-ME-NOT. 121

The genuine Forget-Me-Not is extensively cultivated in
France, for the Paris market, and succeeds well, if kept in
pots in a pan of water, sotiini a pretty appearance in the
window.

It is easily propagated by dividing the roots in the spring
or fall, and planting in arich soil, requiring little or no
attention further than pinching off the ends of the shoots
to prevent its running over the sides of the pot; for com-
pactness sometimes makes a plant as beautiful as the flow-
ers. We know that allowing plants to run too much, pre-
vents them from flowering luxuriantly, which is the case
with this plant. Care must be taken to destroy the insects
which are frequently found on them ; this is easily done, if
attended to on their first ee The flower will
sometimes sport to pink, or a dingy yellow; this arises
from some local cause. It may then be hybridized with
‘some of the Alpine species, and new varieties may be ob-
tained. In its native state, it is not known to sport. Ithas
attracted more attention in France than its native country,
and is now almost identified with it, being found growing
profusely on the banks of the eee” the peasants
calling that stream the “Fairy Barus.”

There is a legend related of the origin of the name
Forget-Me- Not, which has immortalized this flower for ever.
It appears that two lovers (as a. matter of course when
~ lovers are in the tale it is enough to immortalize any affair,
however trivial) were walking on the banks of the Danube;
the lady discovered the flower M. palustris, floating on ts
pearly stream, and was struck with its beauty, and ex-
pressed a wish to possess it. The lover (unlike one of the
present day), to prove ois aaa to gratify his “lady

oH:

oe

SUP RE SANT et Oise ee

PP Lee

122 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

love,” plunged into the stream; his anxiety to serve was

greater than his strength, and he found himself unable to
reach the shore. He threw the flower to her, exclaiming,
as he sunk, “Virgils Mich Nicht.” ‘The flower being
so dearly bought, made her treasure it, as long as life re-
tained its perogative in her bosom; hence the cognomen
“ Forget-Me-Not.” j

FUCHSIA..

*“ The flowers that grace their native beds,
Awhile put forth their blushing heads; a
But on the close of parting day ‘
They wither, shrink, and die away; ©
But those which mimie skill has made,
Nor scorched by sun, nor killed by shade,
Shall blush with less inconstant hue,
Which art at pleasure can renew.”

This beautiful gem has not long been introduced inw
Flora’s catalogue; and, if I am not mistaken, was first dis-
covered in South America, where the exterior beauty of
the flower attracted the eye of the botanist. I should judge,
from its majestic appearance, it has not suffered by cultiva-
tion. Those best. known are F. mycrophilla, colvillii,
coccinea, globosa, and longiflora superba. With gar-
deners, these varieties were considered quite an acquisition
to the flower department, but were eclipsed by the intro
duction of F. fulgens, by Mr. Lee, of Hammersmith, in

— re”
”

FUCHSIA. 123

England, from Mexico, thence to this country. This
plant, in appearance, is distinct from the above named
ones. The leaf is about five inches long, and about
three broad, of a bright green, and the underside a lit-
tle tinged with purple. The flowers are produced at
the ends of the shoots in clusters, are over three inches
in length, of a light scarlet red, having the segment
ereen, the inner portion of the flower a deep scarlet, and
prepossessing. It is vigorous in growth, with tuberous
roots, something like the Dahlia. The seed pod is nearly
the size of a cherry, rather more oblong, and very. deli-
cious in taste, not unlike the fruit of the Cactus. The

Fuchsia, being deciduous, will shed the leaf in winter,

=

consequently may be easily kept in a cellar, or any place
out of the reach of frost. Dr. Lindley suggested the pro-
priety of crossing F. fulgens with F. globosa. Many nur-
serymen took the hint. The result has been wonderful.
The list has now swollen to about one hundred and fifty ;
but in many cases the similitude is so great, that it would
lead an experienced gardener into a labyrinth of perplexity
to point out the difference ; yet all find names and advo-
cates.

So esteemed is this beautiful plant in England, that
every new variety commands an enormous price as soon
as it appears, which in a few years is reduced to a small

sum by being supplanted by another new variety. It is

certainly surprising that this magnificent variety of plants

is not more esteemed in this country, being easily cultiva-
ted by seed or slips,in any common garden soil. The

seeds should be sown in the spring, and, when about one

inch high, should be potted off. Slips should be taken off

124 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE..

in the spring, which will root readily. Sometimes we see
F. coccinea, commonly called “ Lady’s Ear Drop,” in a
parlor, with its graceful flowers suspended on the branches,

“ Beautifully fair,
As graceful in its loveliness as a maiden’s flowing hair.”

The Fuchsia requires a shaded situation, being rather
impatient of drought, but in the humid atmosphere of Eng-
land, it will live in the open ground; and some gar-
deners are so wedded to this superb genus of plants as to
form beds of the different varieties, with the tallest in the
centre, placing an awning over them in the summer,
to protect them against the sun’s rays, and prevent the
heavy rains from destroying them. By this means their
flowering season is protracted for a longer time, and it in-
spires the spectator with delightful impressions. How
ingenious the contrivance ; the labor of the constructor is
sufficiently repaid by the gorgeous appearance of the flow-
ers. Is it not delightful to reflect on the association of
ideas advanced and practised to beguile our senses by such
tasteful exhibitions. Floral devices will predominate with
persons attached to flowers; the very semblance brings to
mind the following lines by Cowper :— !

‘* How sweet to muse upon the skill displayed
(Infinite skill) in all that He has made;
To trace in Nature’s most minute design, ~
The signature and stamp of Power Divine.”

GRAFTING WAX. 125

GRAFTING WAX.

The component parts of this useful and indispensable ar-
ticle in grafting, &c., is an equal part of bees-wax, rosin,
and tallow, with sufficient tar to make it soft and pliable
when heated over a fire. It may be laid on with a brush
quite thick (blood warm); and before baking dry, should be
sprinkled over with sand to render it impenetrable to the
weather, otherwise it would be of little use. If intended to
be worked with the hand, it should be made to the consist-
ence of putty, by adding more wax; this also should be
used before cold. |

™

GARDEN PINK.

(DIANTHUS HORTENSIS.)

_ ____. the wild Pink crowns the garden wall,
_ And with the flowers are intermingled stones,
Sparry and bright, rough scattering of the hills.”

This indispensable variety of flowering plants of late has
been taken under the care of the florist, and has been much
improved by art. It is an herbaceous perennial, flowering
in June; the stem branching, flowers solitary and termi-
nal; the scales of the calyx ovate and short, the leaves chan-
nelled and glaucous. There are many doubts whether this

126 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

flower is a mere variety of the Carnation, or a distinct spe-
cies of itself, I do not pretend to be a botanist, therefore
cannot tell if there really be a distinction between the two.
I have saved the seeds of the Carnation and sown them, the
_ result being nothing more to my comprehension, than Pinks,
not one seedling having the least affinity tothe parent plant.
From this I should judge the Carnation to be a mere va-
riety. Then, again, when we consider the risk of the Car-
nation growers themselves, that are in the habit of saving
and sowing their own seeds, it being mere chance when a
Carnation is produced. It is considered that if a grower
raises one new variety in his life time, he may be a for-
tunate man.

The difference most perceptible in the Carnation is, that
it is more robust than the Pink; whether there exist in re-
ality a difference is as yet unsettled with the fiorist; but so
far as public opinion is concerned there is a difference.
“They should, therefore, be treated as separate plants. Of
the Pink there are many varieties; all are not florists’ flow-
ers. Of the common kinds, the “Pheasant’s Eye” is the
best, and the treatment of one is applicable to all but the
fine kinds, which are managed like the Carnation. The
Pink is more hardy than the Carnation, and will strike
more readily from cuttings. This has been the principal
way of propagating them, until recently, when it was dis-
covered they would grow readily from slips, and make
stronger plants in less time than by pipings.

To propagate from seed, the best plan will be to sow
them in March, in pans‘or boxes, and when six leaves are
formed, transplant them into a bed about four inches apart,
and in September transplant them to where they are intend.

GARDEN PINK. 127

ed to flower. The Pink will never flower to that perfection
it would do, if removed after that month. The best time to
slip Pinks is early in the spring or the last of August.
They must be shaded until the plants begin to grow. If
_ you increase by pipings it should be done in June, or the
beginning of July, in the following manner :—Take a large
pot or box, fill it with a light rich soil, one third part sand
and well incorporated; let the receiver be full to the top,
and water it well with a watering-pot. This done, take
the pieces intended for piping, and cut them through the
third joint from the end with a sharp knife, and trim the
tops if you wish to plant them thick; they should never be
closer than one inch each way. As you cut the pipings,
throw them into a bowl of water to give them firmness;
then take a bell glass and mark its size, the same as recom-
mended for cuttings; then insert the pipings about half
their length, and gently water them to settle the soil.
When the grass is dry, put on the glass to exclude the air,
and remove them to the shade.

The glass should never be placed on until the grass is
dry ; this precaution must be observed whenever you water
them. If close covered they may not require any for the
first ten days. The soil must always be kept damp, and
when you perceive the pipings begin to grow, admit air by ,
degrees. Should the weather be favorable, and proper at-
tention be paid to them, in about six weeks the plant will
be sufficiently rooted to transplant. They should then be
treated the same as full grown plants. The soil for Pinks
‘should be a rich sandy loam. In the latter part of March
loosen the soil around the plants without disturbing their
roots, and place some sifted manure around them, which

128 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

will much improve their flowers. When the plants begin
to spindle up to flower, the safest way will be to put sticks
to them and tie them up; as their stems will be brittle; this
will prevent accident. The character of the Pink is simi-
lar to the Carnation (with the exception that its dimensions
are much smaller); it flowers nearly at the same time, from
-June to July, depending entirely on the season. ,

The Pink is easily crossed, as it seeds freely, wtth the
exception of the larger and very double kinds. ‘The pro-
cess of crossing should be performed very early in the
morning ; and the pollen should be transferred to the flower
two or three times in the day. If the flower begins to
fade within twenty-four hours after the operation, you may
conclude your object has been effected. A mild day is the
best for the operation. A large bed of Pinks make one of
the best shows known in the floral line. Their fragrance
is delightful, surpassing all conception. The Pink is most-
ly cultivated for the beauty of its flowers; but the Clove
Pink is the one selected for medical purposes, possessing a
strong aromatic odor, which resembles the clove; the taste
is a sweetish bitter, and astringent. The properties of the
Clove Pink are easily extracted with alcohol or water, and
by distillation a fragrant oil is obtained, which is used with
other medicine. In Europe there is a great trade made in
this line of business by the cottagers, in whose gardens this
evergreen perennial can be seen during m.d-winter, when
every other plant is suffering by the inclemency of the
winter. |

/

GERANIUM. 129

a ae

GERANIUM..

(PELARGONIUM. )

*« Thine excellence is of a rare degree,
Though praised by others, ’tis unknown to thee;
In humble deeds of love, and kindly care,

To these earth’s riches own no share;

By acts of mercy, all unseen of men,

By silent victory over pride and sin,

By faith, and hope, and charity on earth,

Thou provest to others thy transcendent worth.”

On this beautiful variety of evergreen perennials much
eloquence has been lavished by many writers, and justly
so, for no green-house plant will better justify the grower
in having a house devoted to them in particular. This wiil
enable the florist to bring them to that perfection that could
not be attained in a house of mixed plants. No flower sells
better in the market than the Geranium. This is sufficient
proof that itis a general favorite. There are extensive cata-
logues containing many hundred with names. There is a
great sameness of colors in many, yet all are cultivated as
choice florist’s flowers. In making a selection, a person
should go into some extensive establishment, and select
about twenty that may be distinct; beyond that number the
amateur should not go for distinct ones.

The Geranium was originally imported from the Cape
of Good Hope into different parts of Europe, where the in-
dustry of the florist made it manifest their skill had been
put in requisition, from the vast number of hybrids pro-

130 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

duced. Some of the old varieties possess an agreeable odor,
but are inferior in flowers, and unworthy of being placed in
a good collection. It is observable that when nature has
been chary in awarding a sweet and delicate perfume,
she has been more lavish in their beauty, which has been
the case with this. It has not only beautiful flowers, but
they often appear in large trusses, making some of the plants
appear a perfect sheet of beauty. Hybridizing was not so
well understood until the father of that system (Mr. Sweet,
an English florist) commenced. Colvill, Dennis, and Garth
afterwards appeared, and still propagate: By their indus-
try we get new varieties annually; and it is to be hoped
they may meet with a corresponding remuneration.

The Geranium is of easy culture, generally speaking,
though some hybrids are more difficult than others, without
a propagating house. When this is the case the amateur
should abandon them for other varieties. ‘The seeds should
be sown in the spring, in a pan or box of light rich soil,
and when the plants have formed six leaves, pot them sin-
gly into two inch pots, and regularly water them. When
the pots are filled with roots, shift them into one a size
larger, and in the fall into one of four inch, giving them a
good drainage, and treat them the same as full grown
plants. In February the. plants should be shifted again
into one a size larger, and the top soil removed without dis-
turbing the roots, and fresh soil put in and watered to pro-
mote their growth. In July, after your plants are done
flowering, cut them down, and repot the old roots into a
three inch pot; the plant will flower tolerably well the next
season. The tops should be converted into cuttings by cut-
ting them through the fourth joint from the top with a sharp

wr me

GERANIUM. rah

~

knife, and trimming the leaves; then stick them round the
pan as previously directed for cuttings; place them in the
shade and keep them moist, and in six weeks they will be
well rooted and ready to pot off, and be placed into their
winter quarters. The cuttings will flower to perfection
in the spring, which makes it necessary to propagate every
season. f

The Geranium is tender, and will not stand frost, and
should therefore be kept in a place where the cold will
never be below the freezing point. Should the thermome-
ter fall to 26° Fahrenheit, where your plants are, remove
them into a dark place, when the frost will come out grad-
ually. No ill effects will then result; but if you take them
into a room where light is,,and the room warmer than
where frosted, you will lose your plants; neither does this
plant like a damp place for the winter, which is injurious.
The Geranium should never be placed out of doors before
the last of May, when-all danger of frost is over. All these
little items should be borne in mind by the amateur, as one
night may derange all your hopes.

The soil best suited for this plant is one third rotten ma-
nure, from an old cucumber bed, and two thirds sandy
loam, well incorporated and exposed to the weather for three
months before used. The season of potting will depend
more on your plants than any set time, as you must. be
guided by circumstances. July is the best time to cut them
down, or they may be delayed until August if you have ta-
ken cuttings. When your plants are attacked with the
green fly, you must either smoke them, or make soap suds
with whale-oil soap; the latter is the safest plan, and done
- with the least trouble.

132 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

GLADIOLUS.

’ (GLADIOLE.)

This charming genera of bulbs is a native of the Cape
of Good Hope, and is deservedly one of the most interest-
ing we have in cultivation from Africa. It is now attract-
ing much notice among florists, and many new hybrids
have been added to the list, that are beautiful. The com-
mon Gladiolus has been in cultivation for some time, and
is known as the “Sword Lily,” on account of the forma-
tion of the leaf. G. communis and G. byzanthus are the
oldest varieties, and are hardy. G. cardinalis and G.
floribundis are more tender, and decidedly more splendid,
as the development of their flowers will manifest.

The Gladiolus is easily propagated by seeds or off-
sets. It is useless to raise from seed with the expecta-
tion of new varieties, unless the flowers are impregnated,
for the seed will produce none but its own kind ; artificial
fecundation must therefore be attended to, if you wish new
varieties. i é, :

The seed should be sown in pans in August or Septem-
ber, and should have the morning sun only, and care must
be taken that the rain does not rot them. In October the
pans should be removed into a pit or green-house until
April, and then exposed to the open air, but must not be
allowed to freeze, when the seeds begin to grow. In the
fall, when the leaf dies down, take them up and pack them
in sand until the following April, then plant them in a bed
by themselves in a sandy loam soil. These seedlings will

~ - @LADIOLUs. 133

not flower until the third or fourth year, when the labor
you have bestowed will be fully compensated with some-
thing new, and in all probability, interesting. These
bulbs, with the exception of the two first named, should
not be planted until the danger of frost is over, for without
due caution, you may lose your bulbs. If early flowers
be the object, plant them in pots to forward them, and keep
them in the house or pit, from thence to the garden in May.
These bulbs increase readily by offsets, some varieties more
than others. G. communis and G. byzanthus should be
planted in October, and will stand the winter and flower.
early.

GLOXINIA.

% Who can paint

Like Nature? Can imagination boast,

Amidst this gay creation, hues like hers?

And can he mix them with that matchless skill,
° And lay them on so delicately fine,

And lose them in each other, as appears

In every bud that blows? If fancy then,

Unequal, fails beneath the pleasing task,

Oh! what can language do.??

This beautiful plant isa native of South America, and
has hitherto been treated as a tender stove plant; but on a
better acquaintance with its habits in cultivation, this has
been clearly proved not to be the case. It is easily culti-
vated by any amateur; and indeed such proofs have been

134 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

adduced as have thoroughly convinced those of the “ old
school” that by a different treatment, better and more
gorgeous flowers are now produced than when treated as
a stove plant.

The Gloxinia was named after a botanical writer by
the name of Gloxia, and was deservedly bestowed in
honor of his deep researches into the nature of plants, so
‘much -so that he was considered the most enlightened
person on that subject. The great secret (if such it may
be called) in its culture, is placing it in a state of rest,
which we find applicable to all tropical plants. ‘The shape
of the flower is somewhat between the Bignonia and the
Canterbury Bell, but it hangs down like the Foxglove, and
the ribs or stripes impart a richness not easily described.
I think that by impregnation the field of improvement
in raising new varieties must be great, more particularly
as this genus of flowering plants continue to produce
magnificent and unsurpassed flowers during the whole
summer, making it one of the most desirable bulbs in
cultivation, and to those acquainted with their culture, one
of the easiest.

Tn order to obtain this plant on the cheapest scale, it will
be necessary to sow the seeds in March, in a light, rich
soil, and if forwarded in a hot bed, they will frequently
flower the first summer. When your plants are of suffi-
cient size, that is, when your plants have formed about the
fourth leaf, transplant them into four inch pots, and keep
them in a moderately shaded situation, and sufficiently
watered to keep them in a growing state. In September
begin to give less water; in November cease altogether,
and place them in a pit or dry cellar, free from frost, and

a

GLOXINIA. 135

let them remain dormant until spring. In the month of
March, it will be necessary to shake the dirt from them,
and repot into one of five inches, with a good drainage;
let the soil be such as you can procure from some ra-
vine in the woods, composed of rotten wood and leaves,
intermixed with the sediments washed from stones, which
form like sand; the bulbs should be planted nearly on a
evel with the soil.

These plants are found on the margin of woods, in their
native country, and we should imitate their nature in soil
and habit as near as possible, to induce them to flower pro-
fusely. After being potted, it will be found necessary to be
careful in giving them water, until several leaves are
formed; then you may occasionally water over the foliage
until the flowers begin to show, which will be about the
last of May. If a small portion of guano were mixed
with the water, I have no doubt benefit would result in
making the ee more vigorous, a the flowers more
strikingly beautiful.

The cultivation of flowers prompts us to endeavor to
find the easiest mode of propagation. ‘The following will
be advantageous to beginners :—By sowing seeds, if the
flowers are impregnated, we raise new varieties; when
these varieties are fine, either in color, shape, or size, then
we commence propagating them; and what is singular in
the Gioxinia is, that if you plant any part of the leaf, pro-
vided the rib in the middle be attached, it will soon form
itself into a bulb, and make a good flowering plant the
next season. It also seeds freely, and ere long we shall be
furnished with catalogues as lengthy as those of the Fuch-
sia. This plant does not in reality require so much atten-

meee

136 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

tion as many others of higher reputation, but of less in-
trinsic merit, for when they flower, nothing more is re-
quired than watering when necessary, and the beauty of
the flowers possesses all the requisites desirable to enchant
our admiration. It would be a great improvement to place
moss on the top of the pot which would give the flowers
a better contrast, and take off the rough appearance of the
soil.

HOLLYHOCK.

(ALTHEA ROSEA.)

‘* Thy long lost praise thou shalt regain:
Dear shalt thou be to future men,
As in old times;—thou, not in vain,
Art Nature’s favorite.”

This is an old but one of the most beautiful deciduous
biennials of our flower garden, flowering from July to
September. It is a native of China, and is of the Marsh
Mallow tribe. Before the Dahlia mania became so great,
it was the most attractive border flower in England; still,
however beautiful the Dahlia may be considered, the Hol-'
lyhock has not lost any of its ornamental beauty, for let
the season be rainy or dry, this flower still retains its
beauty and vigor. Not so with the Dahlia. Fashion may
have reduced the demand for this plant, but its beauty is
still pre-eminent, and will retain its place in the heart of

HOLLYHOCK. 137

those fond of good flowers. This plant will grow some-
times eight feet high; the stem is upright and hairy, the
leaves cordate, fine, seven angled, crenate, rugose. ‘The
flowers axillary, sessile. ‘The natural color is red, but
there are now over twenty colors enumerated in this varie-
_ty, and this change has been effected by the industrious
bee, going from flower to flower, elucidating the following
lines :—

“ From the nectaries of hollyhock,
The humble bee, e’en till he faints, will sip ;”

Then crossing and recrossing until this flower may be
considered at the ne plus ultra of perfection. These flow-
ers, when placed in a stand, like Dahlias exhibited for
show, have a beautiful appearance, equal to any flower
cultivated.

The seed should be gathered on a fine day and preserved
until spring, and then planted in any garden soil. Inno
case should a single flowering plant be allowed to grow
in a collection if you pride yourself upon a good one.
When the young plants are of sufficient size, transplant
them into the borders, around the garden, in cloudy
weather. From the nature of their growing tall, their
appearance will be the most conspicuous, and not inter-
fere with plants of more humble growth; the soil should
not be rich, or your plants will spindle up too much. The
second season you will be enabled to judge the merit of
the flower, and if not well formed and double, pull the
plant up and try again another season ; by this mode you

~ may geta choice collection, and when your object is at-

tained, and you wish to keep them, you must divide and re-
12

138 A GUIDE TO FLOREICULTURE.

move the plants every fall, or they will run out. There
are many plants that delight in being removed ; the Holly-
hock is one of that class. f

HIBISCUS.

Of this family there is a great variety, both annual and
perennial. Of the annuals, the African and Manihot are
best known in the flower garden, being considered very
showy plants, and quite distinct in appearance, which is
not the case with the whole variety. ‘The Chinese variety
does not do well except in the Southern States. This is to
be regretied, as their beautiful scarlet flowers make them
adesirable plant for the green-house. Of the perennials
rnost cultivated, are the White and Pink, both magnificent
plants, exhibiting large flowers, about five inches in diam-
eter, beautiful and bold. The misfortune is, they last buta
day ; but as they continue to open others, some amends are
made for the shortness of their duration. ‘They are propa-
gated by seeds, or by dividing the roots, and should be
planted in the border. If the seeds are sown early in
the spring, they will frequently flower the first season,
and improve in size and beauty, as the plant advances, for
the first five years, while it still retains its noble appear-
ance undiminished. Itis devoid of fragrance. It grows
tall; is best planted around the border, like the Holly-
hock, and needs no further care after being transplanted.
than cutting off the flower stems when done flowering.

- HELIOTROPE, 139

HELIOTROPE.

(HELIOTROPIUM PERUVIUM.)

“ There is a flower whose modest eye,
Is turned with looks of light and love,
Who breathes her softest, sweetest sigh,
Whene’er the sun is bright above.”

This is one of our general favorites, and is much culti-
vated in the green-house, and the parlor. It was discov-
ered by Jussieu, a celebrated French botanist, in Peru.
Along the Cordilleras it is found very plentiful, diffusing
its delightful fragrance, from whence the seeds were collect-
ed and sent to France. By this means, it found its way
into the parterres of the fashionables of Europe. This
plant is ornamental, sweet scented, and flowers nearly the
whole year, making it one of the most indispensable in
cultivation. The leaves are oblong, lanceolate, in appear-
ance much like the common sage of the garden; it is
shrubby i in its natural state, with spikes of flowers, numer-
ous, aggregate, corymbose, and of a bluish lilac color. It
generally attains the height of two feet; will grow readily
from cuttings taken off early in the spring, until fall. It is
in nature tender, and must never be left out of doors in
frosty weather, or it will be destroyed. In the spring,
when all danger of frost is over, it may be turned out. of
the pot into the open ground, and will grow luxuriantly,
and make quite an imposing appearance with its large
corymb of beautiful flowers. The last of September this

140 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

plant should be taken up and potted (the soil a rich, sandy
loam), watered, and brought into the house. This flower,
when planted in the open ground, like the Sunflower, will

turn with the sun; but in cloudy weather it will droop. |

The situation most desirable in the open ground is, where
the sun can have all its influence on the plant. As a pot
plant it is desirable in any room.

HYDRANGEA.

(HYDRANGEA HORTENSIA.)

This is another of our universal favorite flowers which
is to be found in the humble dwellings of the poor, as well
as the mansions of the wealthy. It was first introduced
into the King of England’s garden at Kew, about sixty
years ago, and was imported from China by Sir Joseph
Banks. The flowers of this perennial rooted plant, in its
primitive state, are of azure blue, but cultivation has
wrought a change in their color. It flowers all the eum-
mer, the cymes ate radient, leaves elleptical, narrower at
each end, toothed, and smooth. It does not fall to our lot
to see them in their natural color, which necessarily inca-
pacitates us from judging correctly if culture be in reality
an improvement or not. The circumstance of its turning
blue so seldom makes one of that caste truly desirable J
have tried several compositions to change the color of the
flowers, but without effect. -

Rd”,

ame

HYDRANGEA; 141

_ The Hydrangea is one of the few plants that appear to
thrive even when no care is taken vf them. Still I would
not advise or advocate such looseness in any person that
has the least pretension to the culture of flowers. I re-
collect an anecdote of a nurseryman in London, who was
celebrated for sellmg blue Hydrangeas, which eommanded.
a great price, for several years; but all at once. his stock
run out; he had none but pink. It appeared, in the sequel,
that he bad purchased several loads of peat soil, with which
he potted his plants, little suspecting the effect its quality
would produce on his flowers. When the blooming season
arrived, he was agreeably surprised at the effect. ‘This in-
duced him to keep the balance expressly for that purpose ;
and, as long as any of the soil lasted, he could meet all
demands. ‘To his mortification, he could not find the man
of whom he purchased, neither could he procure any soil

_ to produce the same effect, consequently he was in the pre-

dicament of Othello, “his occupation gone.” I have no
doubt from the greediness of the plant, that soil procured
from marshy grounds, dried and sifted, would be good. It
is said that iron filings will turn the color of the flower. °
If such be the case, why not a yellow sandy loam of a red-
ish cast, be good, which contains a certain portion of iron ?
This is easily to be obtained from the brick yards. Turf
laid by for a year to rot, isa good composition, mixed with
rotten leaves. In short the plant will grow in almost any
soil, but the color is difficult to change.

The Hydrangea is of easy culture, and will strike root at
any time, when not in a state of rest; this is from the time
the leaf begins to drop until the buds swell in the spring.
The best time to pot the plants is in March, and instead of

142 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

shaking the soil from the roots, as with some plants, take
a large knife and cut the roots off, leavmg a ballin the
centre, containing the main body, of the size of a large ap-
ple. Then take your compost and fill the pot, placing the
ball with the plant in the centre. I would not advise a
large pot, as it would be better, in the month of June, to
shift the plant, without disturbing the roots, into a pot
larger. By adopting this plan, your plant will become more
thrifty, and bloom more beautifully with a larger head of
flowers.

This plant, possessing such a desire for water in the
summer, should be kept in pans made on purpose, and be
filled every day or two, and be kept in the shade, for the
sun or want of water will make them flag. In the begin-
ning of October, take them out of the pans and water them
sparingly until the middle of November, then place them
in a cellar, and water once in two or three weeks, until
March, when you must bring them forward, re-pot, &c.,
but guard them from the sprig frost.

The Hydrangea is hardy, and will stand out with pro-
tection, but will flower better if kept in the house. It is
injured more by the sun than frost; avoid both.

a> HONEYSUCKLE, 143

HONEYSUCKLE.

(CAPREFOLIUM PERICLYMENUM.)

* That sweet Honeysuckle which
Is fair as fragrant Bs
The Woodbine wild,
That loves to hang, on barren boughs remote,
Her wreaths of flowery perfume.”

This delightful, fragrant shrub, is a native of Great
Britain, and is found growing wild in the hedges and lanes
of that country ; flowermg from May to July, and filling
the air with the most delightful and pleasing fragrance
known (particularly after a shower), far surpassing the
Sweet Brier. The flowers are capitate, terminal; the leaves

deciduous, distinct.

This plant, although common in England, is cultivated
much asa shade, giving rusticity to the poor man’s cottage,
imparting life and simplicity, as well as ornament. Of the
Woodbine Honeysuckle, there is a large family found in
almost all countries, and the major part are well calculated
for the trellis, affording a good shade, or they can be nailed
to the side of a house. This family of plants is well
calculated for the open flower garden.

The Woodbine family should be trimmed every season
to make them flower better, and not allowed to straggle.
They should be fastened well in case of rain, or their
weight will break them down. This family of decidu-
ous shrubs is easily propagated by cuttings in the spring or
fall, or by layering j and will grow in any common garden

144 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

soil. When by age or otherwise they become naked for
some distance from the ground, injurmg their appearance,
cut them down to within a foot of the ground; this will
make them put out young wood near the roots, and in the
following season they will flower again. There is an ever-
green variety (Lonicera flexwosa), that flowers all the sea-
son, which may be considered the best of this family. It
is a native of China, and should be treated the same as
others. The beautiful dark green foliage of this last named
variety 18 a great ornament, but in the winter quite the
reverse.

HYACINT TNE:

(GRIFFINIA HYACINTHINA. )

This beautiful exotic, better known as the “ Violet
colored Griffinia,’ is a native of Brazil, and was first im-
ported into Europe in 1815. It bears some alliance to the
Amaryllis family. The climate of Europe is too humid
for it, but no doubt in the delightful clime of the Ohio Val-
ley, it could be brought to great perfection. This rare and
valuable plant is thought to possess considerable beauty.
The color is arich blue, the same used by some of the
ancient painters, made by the calemation of the stone
called lapis lazuli, therefore not to be surpassed ; this rich-
ness and softness of tint are perceptible in this flower
alone. Its magnitude and novelty of color, with a

HYACINTHINE, © 145

pleasing physiognomy, make it indispensable in the green-
house or parlor. ‘The leaves are two or three, recumie..
ovate, oblong, prettily veined, crossing the longitudinal
nerves, being thus both novel and interesting; flowers in a
sub-capitate umbel funnel shape, and gaping, composed of
six segments of pure white in the centre, with a delightful
broad ultra-marine blue margin.

The Hyacinthine does not grow over a foot high; a de-
sirable height. It should be grown in five inch pots, well
drained in a maiden soil, with a small portion of sand.
This, like all other South American plants, requires a time
of rest, which is during the winter months, when it must
be kept from frost. It needs no water while dormant. In
the spring, when the bulbs begin to grow, give a little wa-
ter as the plant increases in growth, also increase the quan-
tity, and when in flower and while perfecting its foliage, be
liberal in the supply; upon this depends much of your
success in growing and flowering it to perfection. This,
combined with a clear atmosphere, will make it one of our
best bulbs in cultivation. When the leaves die down, it
can be either re-potted or packed away until spring. The
bulb should never be placed over one third deep in the
soil.

13

146 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

HYACINTH.

(HYACINTHUS ORIENTALIS.)

“* Shade loving Hyacinthus! thou comest again,
And the rich odors seem to swell the flow,
And the lark’s song, the red-breast’s lonely strain,
And the songster’s tune, best sung where wild flowers blow,
And ever sweeter where the sweetest glow.”

This very prepossessing bulbous flowering plant is a
native of the Levant, and is quite common about Bagdad,
where it flowers very profusely in its native state in the
spring, at the same time as with us; being highly fragrant,
makes it very desirable. The bulb is glabrous, succulent,
sending forth a scape with a spike of flowers of funnel shape,
half six-cleft, ventricous at the base ; some are single and oth-
ers double; the latter, strictly speaking, is the Florist’s flower;
but the single are gaining favor fast, and more sought after
for early flowermg in glasses. ‘The double is certainly
more desirable for beds or borders of the flower garden.
The single emits its fragrance more sensibly, and its spikes
are more studded with bells than the double, and for
this reason they are more sought after, to flower in
glasses.

The Hyacinth has been cultivated in Europe above
three hundred years, and was imported by the Dutch orig-
inally from the Levant; and it appears that the climate of
Holland, more especially about Harlem, is more congenial
to its culture than any other part of Europe, and the Dutch
florists have bestowed much pains on it. It appears that

“

—

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,
a

a Pity “day

jg

{

HYACINTH. 147

the first double flower was produced by one Peter Voer-
helm, during whose life a double Hyacinth was worth
about five hundred dollars in the Harlem market; since
that time a single root has been sold for one thousand dol-
lars. The roots increase fast, and the mania being carried
high, competition caused a considerable decline in the
trade; but, of late, bulbs have been sold as high as fifty
dollars. Catalogues are published annually, both in Hol-
land and England, containing about two thousand, with
names, from a clear white to what is called a black. Blue,
pink, and white are the predominant colors, both single
and double. Yellow is not common, therefore rarely met
with ; what is so called in the catalogues to the contrary
notwithstanding.

Could we see a bed of these enchantingly fine flowers,
it would fascinate us to such a degree, as probable to give

a distaste to cultivate on such a small scale as we are com-

pelled to. The bulbs brought to this country and sold, are

nothing but the refuse of the Harlem market; still our
ideas on the subject being somewhat limited, make them
appear more beautiful than they otherwise would. I do
not consider any place that does not receive the benefit of
the salt water breeze, altogether congenial to the culture of
the Hyacinth ; there are some situations more suitable than
others. ‘The Hyacinth in this country, does not flower
well over one or two years. Eight years ago, when in
Europe, I selected some choice flowers from different estab-
lishments, and the first season they flowered well; so that
my expectation was fully realized. As they increased fast,

- I disposed of some; the balance were planted in my gar-

den with the same care as the first season, in full expecta-

148 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

tion of their continuing fine; but my surprise was great,
when I found them the second season, worthless. I then
surmised, from their degenerating, that the climate was not
congenial, which opinion has been strengthened by expe-
rience. It is still my impression that if the bulbs could be
acclimated, the obstacle would be obviated. I then com-
menced planting the small offsets, saved from the large
bulbs ; some flowered the first year ; in the second, I took
them up and replanted them into another bed, at the proper
season, which appeared to answer well, until the fourth
year, when the season was rainy and nearly the whole rot-
ted. Thus my golden dreams vanished, and m some
measure I was satisfied it was fallacious to cultivate them,
unless renewed every season, with fresh imported bulbs at
a cheap rate. Still, it would be as well for others to try
from offsets, for my being unfortunate is not sufficient proof
that others should not succeed. I should therefore recom-
mend their being planted in a rich sandy loam, from the
middle of October to November, in an open, airy situation,
in a bed four feet wide, which will enable a person to weed
from either side with facility. Have your bed of any
lenoth, accordmg to the number of bulbs to be planted.
Plant seven across at equal distance, and nine inches apart
the other way. When you are ready to plant, make a
channel five inches deep, and lay the bulbs on sand, which
will prevent water from stagnating or settling against them;
and also keep the bulbs warm ; when thus placed, draw the
soil over them, and when the cold weather sets in, cover
the bed with manure, or tanner’s bark, about one inch
thick, to preserve the bulbs from the severity of the frost,
and the deleterious effects of heavy rains, both being detri-

HYACINTH, 149

mental. In the beginning of March, if the bulbs begin
to gTow, and the weather is mild, it will be necessary to re-
move the protection from the bed by degrees, as some-
times we have hard frost in this month, which would check
them much. In April, the scape will begin to appear, and
about the time the flowers begin to expand, it will be
necessary to tie them to asmall stake neatly, as the rain
will beat them down, and destroy the beauty of the corolla,
or bells.

The Dutch florists’ plan is to take the bulbs up about
- four weeks after they have done flowering; but in this
country, they had better remain until the foliage is entirely
destroyed. Some people are desirous of flowering Hya-
cinths in glasses, which, prebably, from their not succeed-
ing better in this country, is the best plan; to effect this
object, it is best to plant the bulbs in the open ground in
October, to remain there about six or seven weeks, to in-
duce them to throw out root fibres more regularly. Then
take them up, wash them clean, and put them in “ Hya-
cinth Glasses” (made for the purpose), and fill up with
soft water, so that the bulb will be immersed about a quar-
ter of an inch; change the water whenever it becomes
feetid ; they must be kept in a warm room, for if allowed to
freeze, your glasses will break. If the bulbs are not buried
before placed in the glasses, it will be necessary to put
them ina dark place for some time after, otherwise they
will not throw out root fibres regularly, nor look so well,
nor bloom so fine. Bulbs can be put in glasses until the
middle of January, with tolerable success. Hyacinths, thus
treated, seldom flower the second year. If you wish early
flowers, plant them in pots. They will make a good ap-

150 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

pearance in the parlor, and will do nearly as well as if
planted in the open ground, provided you do not give them
much water. You can forward them by plunging the
pots in a hot bed, but if forced that way, they will be good
for nothing afterwards.

ISMENE AMANCAKS.

This beautiful bulbous rooted plant is a native of Aman-
ces, near Lima,in Peru. It is found in all parts sur-
rounding that place in great splendor; a fine, rich, deep
yellow flower. It sends forth a scape about thirty-six
inches high, with several flowers six inches long, and about
four inches across, and its delightful fragrance makes it
very desirable in all collections of Lileaces.

The bulb is not large, and to grow it in perfection re-
quires a sandy loam, and a medium size pot. Like all the
Ismenes, and its tribe, it requires a season of rest. This
plant is much celebrated in Peru on the 24th of June
(when in bloom), by the natives of that country, as the
Hawthorn is in England on the Ist of May ; perhaps more
so, for the churches in Peru are decorated with it at
that season. |

This plant was named Ismene, after the daughter of
CEdipus. [t is scarce in this country, but is cultivated
in England to great perfection. For a fine description
of this flower, I refer the reader to a book entitled “A
Visit to the South Seas,” by C. J. Stewart, M. A,

IRIs. 151

ax

ie IRIS.

The German peasant wreathes with flowers in rich attire,

For sun-tressed Iris weaves for him her urns of fragrant fire;
But we have a holier gem. our lowly home to illume,—

The flowers of love our lattice lights with undecaying bloom.”

This is a very numerous family of plants, useful as well
as ornamental in our flower garden. The Persian (Iris
persica) is a very pretty bulbous rooted plant, and being of '
a dwarf growth, is suitable for pot culture, more particular-
ly for being rather tender. These bulbs are often brought
to this country with others from Holland, and have been in

_ cultivation over two hundred years; they are easily raised
in glasses, like Hyacinths, or in pots. This flower is a
delicate blue and violet color, of great beauty and fra-
erance, the latter predominating so much that one plant
will perfume a room. If raised in pots, the soil should be
a rich sandy loam; and if potted in November, they will
- flower early the Roacae spring.

To raise them in the open ground will require consider-
able trouble, for the frost and rain are alike injurious;
eit does their beauty attract observation so much, on.
account of its dwarf-like appearance, as when in a pot.

The Snake’s-head Iris (Iris tuberosa) has been in culti-

~ vation much longer than the Persian; this is also imported
from Holland. It does not succeed well in this country,
being hard to vegetate. This, no doubt, arises from being
kept out of the ground too long. The Chalcedonian Iris
(Tris susiana) has striated leaves, with a stem about one

‘152 i A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

foot high, of the most beautiful species, the leaves sword
shape, the stem erect, with one flower. It flowers in June,
and is a native of the Levant, whence it was imported in
1596. This species requires the same treatment as the
Persian. The Spanish Irish (Iris zephiwm) is a native of
Europe, and is often imported into this country; the leaves
awl-shaped, channelled ; stem two flowered, corolla blue
and yellow, petals narrow, height two feet. This bulbous
rooted plant has been much improved by culture.

We have about four kinds in cultivation in this country.
The most common is the blue; but in England, where the
greatest attention is paid to their culture, their lists amount
to upwards of fifty, of all colors and shades, and their
prices vary from twelve to eighteen cents each. The Great
Bulbous rooted Iris (English Iris) is much larger than
the Spanish; the flower stalk is about twice as high, with
flowers in proportion, and equally as prolific in variety of
colors. They can be purchased in London at one dollar
per dozen. The time to remove these bulbs is from Au-
wust to September, and they should never be kept out
of the ground more than six weeks, as it will affect their
bloom.

The two last named varieties seed abundantly, which
should be sown in drills‘as soon as ripe, and the plants
will appear in the spring. ‘The fourth year they will
flower, thus repaying a person well for his trouble, as
no attention is necessary but weeding, and a light pro-
tection during the severity of the winter weather. These
bulbs should be removed every third year, for if allowed
to remain in the same place a longer time, they will work
their way into the ground, and be entirely lost.

ee eae Ue
Py

bs sagt
ICE PLANT. 153

ICE PLANT.

(MESEMBRYANTHEMUM CRYSTALLINUM.) |

‘¢ Chaste as the icicle,
- 'That’s curdled by the frost from purest snow,
_ And hangs on Diana’s temple.”

This is a singular plant, and is much esteemed by the
ladies. It isa deciduous trailer, with large oval leaves,
acute, frosted, three nerves beneath. The root is biennial,
and is generally cultivated as an annual for the parlor. It
does best in the open ground where it will cover a large
space, but should be potted in the fall and brought into the
house, as it will not stand the winter in the open ground.
When the sun shines on this plant, it appears to be covered
with ice, and to the eye is both brilliant and novel. The
pellucid studs surrounding the stem in the summer appear-
ing like ice, gives the plant all the novelty desirable for
the culture of ladies; besides it is a plant requiring but
little attention. It will grow in any garden soil, and in
almost any situation, requiring but little attention after the
seeds are sown in the spring. A full exposure to the
sun is best, as it displays its beauty more perceptibly.
When the young plants have formed four leaves, trans-
~ plant them separately into two inch pots, and, as the plant
increases, shift them into one of four inch, or plant them
into the open ground. If for pot culture, make a trellis
of eins ‘sticks for the plant to be fastened to. The flow-

+ 78 wey
oo »

*

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i
&

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-

154 : A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ers of this plant are white, possessing no particular beauty.
Cuttings can be taken off in the fall, and will root readily
if not over watered.

INK FOR ZINC LABELS.

“Take one drachm of verdigris, one drachm of sal
ammonia; powder half a drachm of lampblack to ten
drachms of water, mix them well together.’ This will
make a first rate article for writing with, and will super-
cede the old plan of placing names on sticks.

ee

— |

INDIAN CRESS, STERSION. 155

INDIAN CRESS, STERSION.

(NASTURTIUM. )

_“ Then springs the living herb, profusely wild,
O’er all the deep green earth, beyond the power
Of botanist to number up their tribes;
Whether he steals along the lonely dale,
In silent search; or through the forest, rank
With what the dull incurious weeds account,
Burst his blind way; or climk the mountain rock,
Fired by the nodding verdure of its brow;

’ With liberal hand has nature flung
: Their seeds abroad.”

This very useful plant has been under cultivation two or
three hundred years, and was first discovered in Peru. It
is known there as the Mastraco de Peru, and-with us by
the common name of Stersion. The first account we have
of this species, is under the botanical name of Tropeolum
major and minor. It was cultivated for salad, possessing a
warm flavor, not unlike cur common cress; from this alone

arose the name of Nasturtium. The berries were used for

' pickles, gathered when young and tender, and by many

considered equal to Capers. Of late it has been more cul-
tivated for its flowers than for other purposes. ‘The most
common of this species is the yellow, the first introduced for
cultivation. We have now added to the list, an orange
color ; a blood-red, very rich in appearance; a new spotted,
80 termed by florists, but in reality striped; orange scarlet

color, and sweet scented, which makes the variety desirable

™ - 3
wood
oa 2 %

re.

156 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

in every garden. ‘There is also a double variety, which is
cultivated in the green-house, but i is rare In this country, as
well as many others.

We have now to record another new variety in color,
Tropaolum azureum, which was first discovered by a Mr.
_ Miers, in his travels in Chili; the thing appeared so impro-
“bable among florists, that little confidence was placed in the
statement, for it was regarded by those versed in colors, as
matter of doubt, whether species of flowers that produce a
pure yellow, as the Stersion, could also produce the blue.
No analogy could be found ; for mstance, we have the dou-
ble yellow Dahlia, but no blue; a blue flower may sport to
red or whiie, but not to yellow. Again, yellow flowers may
spcri te white, or red of different shades, but not to blue.
The primitive color of the Hyacinth is a blue; we often
see catalogues with yellow ones in it, but it is a pale yellow
ochre color, not a bright yellow. We have the yellow
Rose, but who ever saw a blue one? Neither have we
seen the yellow Pelargonium (Geranium). But to the sub-
ject; we have to state a fact, that Tropeolum azureum, a
blue Nasturtium, has been introduced into England by a
nurseryman of Exeter, which was discovered by a Mr.
Lebb, near Valparaiso, in South America. From the no-
velty of such a plant, being in opposition to the long argued
system of metamorphosis of colors in flowers, it commands
a high price.

All of this tribe will grow readily from cuttings; but in
propagating that way, the plants are shy in seeding. This
plant, strictly speaking, is perennial, but is cultivated as an
annual, except the double variety; and, of course, the »lue
will be cultivated the same way for years te come.

me

ae SS

INDIAN CRESS, STERSION. 157

To propagate this useful and ornamental running plant,

‘the seed should be sown early in the spring, and fastened to

a trellis. It is a great bloomer (provided the soil be not too
rich), and will continue to bloom until the frost destroys
it. The plant does not seed freely until the evenings be
gin to be cool. When the seeds are wanted for pickling,
they should be picked as soon as full grown and plump,
while tender, leaving some well formed berries for seed.
The flowers are frequently used in garnishing dishes for the
table, and make a very good appearance in a large bouquet
with other flowers, for the table or mantel piece, through
the summer. If grown by cuttings, and kept in pots through
the winter, they should have a rich sandy loam, and be wa-
tered sparingly in December and January, and in May be
planted in the open ground, where they will thrive in al-
most any soil; sandy loam is preferable to any other.

IPOM@A COCCINEA.

‘+ ______- Who poured the richest hues,
In varying radiance, oer thine ample brow,
And like a mesh those tissued stamens laid
Upon thy crimson lip — thou glorious flower?

This, as well as all of the Ipomeceas, bears.a great analo-
gy to the common Bind Weed (Convolvulus), the latter
being annual, while the Ipomeea is a perennial, and gene-
rally Betioca rooted. They are generally natives of the

West Indies, while some few are natives of this country.

158 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

I. coccinea requires to be sprouted in a hot-bed, to-make it
flower early. It will grow readily by cuttings, and so will
the whole tribe. They are decidedly ornamental. This
variety is a beautiful orange scarlet, quite novel in color.
-It flowers in June, and lasts until late in September, when
the roots should be lifted. The leaves of the Ipomea are
~ generally cordate, accuminate, and angular at the base.
~The peduncles are five flowered. The calyx warted and
bearded, though there may be some little variation in some.

There is one of late introduction, with fine purple flowers,
I lear; also L. grandiflora, which has large white flowers,
with acute petals. To enumerate the whole tribe would be
consuming too much time and space. Nearly all deserve
the fostering care of the florist; they are certainly some of
the most desirable trellis flowering plants we have, as their
tencrils will catch without trouble, and the shade produced
is light and airy, at the same time showing their graceful
flowers to advantage all the summer.

The Ipomeas are raised by seeds, like the Convolvulus,
but must be protected from frost ; being perennial, they will

not flower until the second year; they are therefore best

kept in a dry situation during winter, where the rats or mice
will not disturb them. They may be preserved with Dah-
lia roots.

—— .

p JACOBEAN LILY. 159

JACOBEAN LILY.
Pema (SPREIKELIA FORMOSISSIMA.)

“T can find treasure in the leafy showers,
Which, in the merry autumn time will fall;
_ And I can find strong love in buds and flowers,
And beauty in the moonlight silent hours.
There’s nothing nature gives can fail to please,
For there’s a common joy pervading all.”

This genus of flowering bulbs is better known under the
name of “Jacobean Lily,” and is an old variety of flowering
bulbs. It was imported from South America, where it is
found in its pristine state about ravines. The cardinal beau-
ty of this flower alone, has established the merit of its posi-
tion as a desirable plant, and worthy of cultivation in every
collection, however limited a person’s tribe of Amaryllidez
may be. It may be considered as tender, and if planted out
in the open ground in April or May, will flower well. The
» tube is fringed, corolla nodding, with a very ringent limb ;
stamens included in the involute of the lower segments.
In October, when the foliage will be sufficiently matured,
take them up. The leaves should be dried gradually in a
room, and then packed away until the following spring.
This bulb, like the Amaryllis, flowers before the leaf or
grass is expanded; and such is the rapidity of its growth,
that the flower stem will be up and the flowers expanded,
taking you by surprise, in a few days; and if planted in a
mich soil, they will frequently throw up two stems with sev-
_ eral flowers at a time, with such imposing rich crimson

160 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

scarlet colors as to surpass any velvet in comparison with
their richness. The flowers are not so compact as the Am-
aryllis tribe, but their richness of beauty fully compensates
for that deficiency.

The cultivation of Sprezkelia formosissima is generally
confined to pot culture, in which it will do equally as well
~ as in the open ground. They will require attention, anda
shady situation, if confined to the pot. It is said, if you take
up the bulbs in the summer, and cut off the foliage and root
fibres, and plant them, they will flower again the same sea-
son. I should be loath to vouch for its correctness, having
never tried the experiment, but heard the above related by
an experienced gardener. If true (which I have no reason
to doubt), it must necessarily weaken the bulb, and prevent
its flowering the following season; no benefit could be
gained by such an experiment.

I would suggest to those who wish to flower these bulbs
in pots, that after their object is attained, the blest plan
would be to sink the pot under ground, as the bulbs would
mature their foliage better; for the flowering of the Ama-
ryllidz tribe depends more on the state of ripeness the leaves
attain, than almost anything else. Their flowering the
following season depends wholly on what state of perfection
the leaves are brought to; it is useless, therefore, to expect
perfection, unless the foliage be well brought forward, which
is not apt to be the case if retained in the pot. ‘The Ama-
ryllis does not produce well if planted under the soil, which
will account for bulbs generally not flowering.

Spreckelia formosissima was formerly called Amaryllis
formosissima, but their treatment is different from the Ama-
ryllis, although it may be a species of that tribe; you must

' JACOBEAN LILY. 161

place the bulb two inches deep from the surface soil. This
bulb is increased by offsets, not by seed, although the pollen
is perfect and abundant, a circumstance that appears singu-
lar; whether arising from the climate or what other cause
I am at a loss-to tell.

2 ee now remains
That we find out the cause of this effect,
Or rather say, the cause of this defect,
For this effect defective'comes by cause.”

These bulbs can be purchased for twenty-five cents each,
a sum within the reach of every person who has the least
pretension to the culture of flowers, even if not in possession
of a flower garden.

JAPAN ROSE.

(CAMELLIA JAPONNICA.)

“Glorious Camellian blooms fo find,
In the jealous realms of far Japan,
dence Or the Epedendron’s garland twined,
Round the tall trees of Hindostan.”

This j is one of the most superb exotic sits we have in
cultivation, and endowed with natural beauty; it is not only
interesting, but valuable in our estimation. It is moreover
from a country to which we are indebted for some of our

choicest gems in floriculture.
14

yor

162 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

t

In this country the Camellia is a green-house plant. A
closer association with this delightful exotic, is a sufficient
proof that it will de as well in the parlor, and far better in
a pit; but it will not flower as early, and will withstand
considerable frost. In England it is frequently planted in
the open ground, but it would not answer in this country;
the cold nights in the spring are generally accompanied by
very warm sun through the day, which is cave to kill
any plant.

It was originally imported from China and Japan, and is
a species of the Tea Plant. The name Camellia was given
in honor of G. J. Kumel, a celebrated botanical writer of the
Jast century, whose name in Latin was Camellus. There
is great symmetry in the form of the leaf, which is a beau-
tiful dark green, with a fine gloss, giving the plant a fine
appearance at all seasons. Were the leaves not so dark
there would be some resemblance between it and the Orange
Tree. The flower in some respects resembles the Rose of
the garden; hence arose the name of “ Japan Rose.” There
appears a formality in them, as if made of wax; still their
hues are so blended as to defy art to imitate them.

On its first introduction the colors were limited, but the
skill of florists has succeeded in hybridizing them so as to
produce hues innumerable. ‘This has made the plant in-
dispensable in all green-houses, not only as a valuable ac-
quisition for the appearance of their flowers, but as an arti-
cle of profit, by cutting their flowers in the early spring.

This delightful evergreen is cultivated to greater extent
in some parts of Europe than England; for I perceive, by
a catalogue issued by Mr. McKay, at Leige, that he has
two hundred and ninety-four varieties in his collection, being

JAPAN ROSE, - 163

twice as many as in any establishment in England. Many
new varieties have been raised in this country; several of
them, I perceive, have been added to the English collection,
being considered first class flowers. Such is the reputation
these flowers have attained in this country, that it will not
be many years before our florists will have a greater list of
good flowers than any in Europe.

There are several methods of propagating this plant, but
I will confine myself to the most approved. To raise from
seed, it will be necessary to sow them as soon as ripe; some
Camellia growers prefer sowing them in February, keeping
them in sand until that time; either will do. Plant the
seeds in the centre of a small pot of rich soil, and keep them
rather moist. Unless you use bottom sires the seed will
not come up for twelve months; it will generally flower
the third year. If you discover one of superior merit, in-
erease it by inarching on the stock of the single variety. If
your plant be single, keep it to inarch on.

Stocks for Beieticicls are increased ‘by cuttings from the
the single red or white, as well as seedlings. T'o increase
by cuttings, it will be necessary to take them off the last of
July, or beginning of August, at a joint or bud. Young
wood is preferable, if not too tender ; it should be inserted
in a pan filled with soil, nearly one half sand, and must be
covered with a bell glass. They will strike more readily
if placed in a bark bed. The following spring your plants
will begin to grow, and may be potted off carefully in the
fall.

When of sufficient size, say from March to August, they
should be.inarched ; this is considered the best and most
approved way to propagate valuable and scarce varieties.

zz 1 a AF ne a

164 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. 1

Take the plant intended to propagate from, and place it on
a bench where it cannot be disturbed ; then take a knife
and cut a piece about two inches long from the side of the
_branch intended for the stock ; then take the stock, and cut
it in the same manner as you did the other plant, and as
near the same size as possible; when this is done, take the
scion and stock and place them together; then tie them
with bass. Be’ particular and make the bark of each
meet; cover both with grafting wax, to exclude the atmos-
pheric air from the wounded parts. The stock must be
placed on a bench higher than the large plant, and in such
a position, that neither can be disturbed, or it will fail to
unite. A great nicety is required im the performance of the
operation. It must be done in a careful way, or you will
not succeed. In six weeks examine the plant, and, if
found to be united, tie it up again, for fear of accident, for
three or four weeks longer, when you may cut off the
head of the stock, and separate your plant from the parent,
with great care, to avoid accident; then dispense with the
bandage, and treat the plant the same as an old one.

The first season, allow no flower buds to grow, as it will
weaken the plant. ‘The process of inarching is easier de-
scribed than performed, for unless a person has seen the
operation performed he had better pay an experienced gar-
dener for instruction. The Camellia, is frequently in-
creased by budding, which is much practised in France
with decided success, and is meeting with approval
amongst florists in this country. Every eye or bud
makes a plant, and the budding can be performed at
anytime when the bark parts freely. During this opera-
tion, the plant should be kept in one degree of heat; it

o

—_ or Ff Fin ad iia ie we

JAPAN ROSE. 165

is immaterial whether bottom heat be used or not, so long
as the place where the plant is kept, be uniform.

The operation of budding the Camellia is performed in

the same way as fruit trees. I find the Camellia will grow
as well in rich sandy loam as any soil, and it should be
potted every year or two, at the farthest, giving a good
drainage at the time. The spring is the best time to attend
to it, immediately after done flowering.
. The Camellia is a plant that requires a deal of water at
most seasons, and it should be watered over the foliage
every evening through the summer, to prevent the red spt
der from infesting it. In the winter, it is best to keep
them in a pit to save trouble, prior to which wash the
plants all over with soap suds,and syringe them with clean
water. To those who have no pit, the parlor will do; the
degree of heat in the room should be as uniform as possi-
ble, rather cool than hot, just above freezing point, giving
them as much air as ace in mild weather. The
Camellia will flower from January to April; if in the
green-house, earlier; but it can be brought to flower at
almost any season. In the summer, the plants should be
kept in the shade, receiving the benefit of a free oa
of air, and the sapeli dews.

P da sy’ kia te oa At ee ie
A 4

166 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

JAPAN. DILLY." .-

(FUNKIA ALBA.)

This Lily isa beautiful border plant, and has passed un-
der the cognomen of “ Japan Lily,” until lately, when bota-
nists have discovered it does not belong tothe Hemerocallis
tribe of plants. It is a native of China, and has been
much esteemed for its fragrant flowers. The roots are
tuberous, and of easy culture, being quite hardy, throwing
up astem in July, with a number of white fragrant flow-
ers. Its fragrance is equal to the common White Lily.
The leaves are a light green, deeply ribbed; foot stallz of
about four inches, which is generally cut down with the
first frost in the fall. — .

This plant is easily propagated by seed, or dividing the
roots in the spring or fall; if by seed, they should be sown
in a pan, or box, and be protected through the winter, and
brought forward in May. In the fall they should be potted
and treated the same as full grown plants. It does not do
so well by pot culture, as in the open ground, as the plant
sends its root fibres deep into the soil. Asa border plant
it is desirable, and delights in a rich, sandy loam. ‘There
is a blue variety, but the flowers possess no fragrance, or
particular beauty; it is therefore not so desirable as F
Alba.

JASMINE, 167

| JASMINE.

(JASMINUM. )

“Then, how serene! when in your favorite room,
Gales from the Jasmine sooth the evening gloom.”

Of the Jasmine there are several varieties in cultivation,
both in the hot-house as well as the green-house. The one
most generally cultivated is J. officinale, a fine ornamental,
deciduous, climbing plant, bearing white flowers of a deli-
cious fragrance, making their appearance in June, and
which continue until checked by the early frost. The
leaves are pinnate and acuminate; the heads generally up-
right. This desirable fragrant shrub was introduced into
Europe in 1546, and was little known, except by reputation,
until the latter part of the seventeenth century. This was
owing to the selfish disposition of the Grand Duke of 'Tus-
cany, at Pisa, the only person known to possess the plant.
Nor would it have been known to the floral world for years
after, had not his gardener given asprig in a bouquet to
his sweetheart, which she planted; and from that same
sprig she propagated many, and sold them at a high price.
To this circumstance we are indebted for this gem, and no
thanks to the sordid inclination of a despot.

Although this plant is found to be hardy in Europe, it
requires protection in this country, and is consequently
treated asa pot plant. There is no doubt that this shrub,
when. well established in the open ground, if laid dewn in
November, and covered with mats until April, and then

168 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

raised and fastened to the trellis, would make one of the
best arbor vines extant; the vine is thrifty in growth; and
the flowers emit unrivalled fragrance for a great distance.
The innocent appearance of the clusters of delicate white
flowers, which appear in such profusion, contrasted with
the deep green foliage, throws quite an enchanting appear-
ance on the surrounding scene

** The Jasmine, with which the queen of flowers,
To charm her god, adorns his favorite bowers;
Which brides, by hand of neatness drest,
Unenvied rival! wear.”

Then, again, we have two of more recent introduction,
bearing yellow flowers, of more robust habit, not so much
inclined to run, and nearly as fragrant. These are more
tender than J. officinale, and well adapted to parlor culture.
They should be pruned ever spring, to make them flower
more abundantly. AU these varieties thrive nm atich sandy
loam, and are easily propagated by cuttings in the spring,
managed in the usual way of propagating by cuttings. I
have never discovered that these exotics form seeds, and
therefore presume they will not in this country.

There is another beautiful and desirable variety, common- ’

ly called the Cape Jasmine, Gardenia florida, a native of
China, which succeeds well in the Eastern and Southern

States, but not in the West, though this may arise from

mismanagement. I have always found it to do weil, by
potting every spring, with the following composition :—

Leaf mould, cow manure four years old, and loam, equal
parts ; then add one tenth of the above of sand well incor-
porated; and if left out of doors all the winter, and turned

JASMINE, 169

over occasionally, the better. The flower of this variety
is as large as a rose, but not quite so double; it is delight-
fully fragrant. Its appearance is more like the Orange
Tree than the common Jasmine, the leaves, being heavier
ribbed. It will grow to a great height in a favorable situ-
ation and soil, and is easily propagated by cuttings. The
other varieties are not so well known. The above are
the best, easiest managed, and kept through the winter,
and of course most desirable.

“os TAVENDER.

(LAVENDULA SPICA.)

The common Lavender of the garden is a valuable
shrub, a native of the South of Europe, and grows from,
three to five feet high. The stem is brown and woody,
and is divided into slender, straight, herbaceous, pubescent
branches, with opposite sessile, linear, and glaucous leaves.
The flowers are small and disposed in whorls around the
sprouts, forming cylindrical spikes. The corolla is tubular
and labiate, the lower lip divided into segments, the up-
per the largest ; with the filaments within the tube. The
flowers possess a strong aromatic odor, and contain a vola-
tile oil which can be procured by distillation, and is much
‘used by perfumers. The stem and flowers are generally
placed in drawers to impart a fragrance to clothes, and it is

said that the moth will not go where it is kept. The flow-
15

170 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ers should be cut for that purpose while the blossom is
expanded, in dry weather; they will retain their fragrance
for months after being dry. It is raised readily by seed
and cuttings, and will grow in any garden soil.

LEMON TREE.

(cirrus MEDICA.)

This ornamental exotic was first introduced into Europe
about the same time as the Orange Tree, and is a native of
Persia, but is now almost identified as indigemous to the
tropical climate, where it grows to great perfection. ‘This
tree was much cultivated in Greece, in the second century;
therefore is one of the oldest plants in cultivation, and re-
sembles the Orange much. The leaves are larger and
possess a degree of fragrance, and are slightly indented ;
the foot stalks are destitute of winged parts which belong
to the other species. The blossoms are a little purple on
the outer surface, and the fruit differs, having a nipple at
the end; the color is rather darker.

“There are several distinct varieties of the Lemon, es
are very perceptible on examination. It is easily raised
from seed sown in the spring (those obtained from over
ripe fruit of the fruiterers are the best for that purpose).
The seed should be dried before sown, and will germinate
freely. In the third year the plants should be budded in
July; the soil a rich loam, and the plants shifted when the

doo
* LEMON TREE, 171

pots are filled with roots, into one a size larger. The best
time to shift them is the fall; for if allowed to stand in
that condition through the winter, the roots are apt to mil-
dew. When the plants are shifted is the proper time to
trim and make them as compact as possible. _

The fruit of the Lemon affords an essential oil by dis-
tillation, the juice is of essential service, possessing a pecu-
liar, pleasant acid, and grateful to the palate, and when
mixed with water and sweetened, as a summer beverage,
denominated “lemonade,” it cannot be surpassed either
for the sick or healthy person.. ‘The juice is also useful for
its medical properties, being a specific for the scurvy, for
travellers going on long sea voyages. The rind of the
fruit-is often candied, and used in pastry, such as cakes
and puddings. It is the Ls ingredient in the cele- |
brated “ Spesons Bitters.”

LUPIN.

MEO cl (LUPINUS.)

There are several varieties of this hardy annual in cul-
tivation, which afford a pleasing prospect in the flower
garden. ‘They are known to many as the “Sun Dial.”
The Lupins are natives of different parts of Europe, flow-
ering from July to September, 1 in any garden soil. The
flowers are formed in spikes in the shape of the. pea-
blossom, colors various. ‘The perennial varieties of the

‘ i

172 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

Lupin are beautiful, and are propagated by seed or divi-
sion of the roots, the same as other perennials. ‘They re-
quire a rich sandy loam to grow them to advantage.

LILY OF THE VALLEY.

(CONVALLARIA MAJALIS.)

“‘ Seek the banks, where flowering elders crowd;
Where scattered wide, the Lily of the vale,
Its balmy essence breathes; where cowslips hang
The dewy head; where purple violets lurk,
With all the lovely children of the shade.”

This Lily is, generally speaking, a great favorite. It is
a native of Europe, and perennial in duration. The flow-
ers are small, sweet scented, and found growing. in the
copses in England, bearing their beautiful globe shape,
companulate, white, drooping flowers in May. The scape
is half cylindrical; the leaves two, ovate, lanceolate, radi-
cal, something resembling the Tulip, except being slightly
striped. The modest appearance of this flower is certainly
a great recommendation, independent of its fragrance. It
is said that its perfume has attraction, and draws the night-
ingale. This, I presume, is a mistaken notion; for there
are other flowers in England whose fragrance is by far
superior to the Lily of the Valley. It should be borne in
mind, that the nightingale delights in retired situations,
away from the bustle and noise of the farm house, like the

LILY OF THE VALLEY. 173

thrush. These birds can be heard of a moonlight night,
singing in concert with each other, creating very pleasing
sensations to the listener, though there is something
melancholy in their “ still, sweet voice,” that never fails to
charm. rool

This plant is not so much cultivated in this country as
formerly, although easily managed. The situation should
be shaded from the mid-day sun, and airy at the same
time; the soil rich and rather moist. It is increased by
division of the roots, which are numerous, and is easily ac-
complished in the fail. It does very well when treated as
a pot plant. ‘

LILY.

(LILIUM. )

“ The Lily’s height bespeaks command,
A fair imperial flower,
She seemed designed for Flora’s hand,
The sceptre of her power.”

Of this tribe of beautiful plants, there appears to be six-
teen species, all considered choice flowers. The bulbs are
scaly, with leaf stems growing from three to five feet high,
of various colors and shapes. The Martagon or Turk’s
Cap is a splendid variety, but is not calculated for this
climate ; the severity of the winter kills them if exposed.
It is occasionally cultivated in the green-house where it

174 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

succeeds very well. The Tiger and Orange variety are
quite common in our gardens, and withstand our winters.
The former is frequently found in the meadows in the
West. The Orange is known by its orange scarlet flow-
ers; when the sun shines on them they appear like fire,
and are commonly called the Fire Lily from this circum-
stance. Both are splendid flowers. There are many
more, but not well adapted for this clime, unless con-
fined to the green-house. The whole tribe is increased
by offsets, which are thrown off every season, more’ or
less. These bulbs delight in a rich loam.

LEMON SCENTED VERBENA.

(ALOYSA CITRIODORA.)

eo

Like the fragrant mint,
Hid in the umbrage of some lowly glen,
Thy virtues lie concealed; and only love,
In its deep research, can unlock the wealth
Of thy benignant soul, and bring to light
Its hidden jewels.”?

This delightful, fragrant perennial is a native of Chili,
and is one of the most agreeable plants in cultivation.
The leaves are ribbed, lanceolate, and terminate. ~ The
flowers are small, of a pale purple or lilac color, formed
in spikes, easily managed. ‘To propagate it, June is the
best time. Take cuttings from two to three inches in

LEMON SCENTED VERBENA. 175

length, and place them in a box, or pan, with a light
sandy soil, and cover them with a bell glass, as recom-
mended for soft wooded plants. In five weeks they will
be ready for potting off Sometimes the weather will re-
tard their growth; this will be observable, for unless yen
' perceive them growing, do not disturb them.

When you transplant, take as much soil as will adhere to
the roots, place them in three inch pots, and pinch off the |
tops. This will give them. more strength by forming
more roots; then place them in the shade; in the fall,
remove them into the house, before the frost sets in. If
you desire large plants, in the last of May place them
in the open ground, where they must remain until Sep-
tember, when it will be necessary to pot them off, and
trim them tolerable close. This will be found necessary
to make thrifty plants, as the Aloysa will in one sea-
son put out shoots five feet long. This plant, from its
agreeable fragrance, and easy management, has been a
favorite plant in the green-house and parlor. The soil
best suited is a sandy loam, and it requires but little
water through the winter months,

176 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

LONDON PRIDE.

( SAXIFRAGE UMBROSA.)

The London Pride, or None so Pretty, is an evergreen,

ornamental in appearance, perennial in duration, and bears
small whitish flowers with small spots, from April to June.
The leaves are obovate, retuse, with cartilaginous crenate,
_ stem naked and pannicled. It makes a fine border for a
bed in the flower garden. In such estimation is it held,
that it may be seen in almost every cottager’s garden in
England, creating a lively appearance in the depth of
winter, thrivmg im any situation, and is not affected by
smoke. It is propagated by division of the root in Sep-

tember, forming the borders, and needs no more atten-
tion. It seeds freely, and can be increased that way, but
is seldom necessary, as it increases fast by the roots and
will grow in any garden soil.

LAURESTINUS.

(VIBURNUM. TINUS.)

This is an evergreen ornamental shrub, a native of
Spain, and is quite hardy in Europe, imparting life and
beauty to the landscape all the winter. The leaves are

eh i.

ae oe . a

LAURESTINUS. _ TA

ovate, oblong, entire, of a dark green, bearing a corymb of
white flowers early in the spring, before other shrubs begin
to show theirs. It is well adapted for parlor culture, being
nearly hardy, and of easy culture. It is propagated by
layering, and will grow from cuttings taken off early in
the spring. The soil should be a rich loam, and potted in
the fall when other plants are.

MOCCASIN PLANT.

(CYPRIPEDIUM.) _

«Go! cull the golden fruits of truth;
Go! gather fancy’s brilliant flowers.”

This is a beautiful orchideous plant, a native of this
country, and found growing in swamps, near woods. The
flower beats some affinity to a slipper, and is frequently
called the Lady’s Slipper. It also resembles some varieties
of the Calceolaria, hanging pendulent, and is unique in
appearance, quite fascinating to the eye. It appears to be
difficult to manage in this country, although a native ; this
arises probably from not studying the nature and habit of
the plant, a great fault with cultivators; for without this
desideratum, no plant can succeed well. In Europe the
florists have a house devoted to the orchidacee order of
plants, which enables them to succeed better in their man-
agement. The soil should be taken from marshy places.
The plants plentifully supplied with water when in a grow

ele) | fie i
ihe,

178 . A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ing state, and kept in the shade. When the leaves begin
to turn color, water should be gradually withheld. They
must be kept in a state of rest the residue of the season,
and in the spring should be re-potted and encouraged in
growth. , It is perennial, and may be divided at the root,
or raised by seed sown as soon as ripe. The orchideous
plants, generally, are very beautiful, even beyond descrip-
tion; but are little cultivated in this country. This is
probably owing to the florists not being compensated for
their trouble, as but few persons are willing to give what
may be deemed a fair price for them, when flowering plants
of a lower price can be purchased to fill a vacuum these
charming flowers ought to fill.

MYRTLE.

(MYRTUS.) -

‘“« Karnest, I beg—add not with toilsome pain,—
One far-sought blossom to the Myrtle plain,
For sure, the fragrant Myrtle bough

Looks seemliest on thy brow.”

This is certainly a fine ornamental evergreen shrub.
There appears to be a large family of them, natives of
Europe, New Holland, and different parts of the- globe,
flowering from June to August. The flowers generaliy
are solitary, white, and sweet scented, the involucre-two
leaved.. The foliage differs in size, as the different varieties

<< ‘

| MYRTLE. 179

will exempiify ; all were held in great estimation by the
ancients, and were dedicated to Venus, the goddess of
Love. It was much used by the Romans, in the decora-
tions of their triumphant marches, when celebrating some
conquest, and in decorating their heads with wreaths or
crowns. The plant is tender, and requires protection
through the winter. It is easily managed as a parlor
plant, and will grow readily by cuttings at almost any time
of the year, but the spring is best for that purpose. The
leaves are sweet scented, the perfume being contained in
small cells, which are perceptible when looked at with a
microscope. ‘There isa double variety (M. communis mul-
tiplex) a very handsome shrub, of a neat appearance and
a great bloomer. There is also one a native of China
(IM. tomentosa), of erect habit, and of a noble, command- |
ing appearance. The flowers are the largest of the whole
species, changing to a purplish white, after being fully
expanded.
One of this tribe bears the allspice of commerce, but it
requires the hot-house, and is therefore not of much ac-
count to the amateur. I have seen the common Myrtle
(M. communis) in England fifteen feet high, standing. in
front of a house having a southern aspect, which had
grown there for many years without protection; when in
flower, it was beautiful, and an object of public admiration ;
a goldfinch used to build her nest in it every season, which
associated the most pleasing feelings. I have heard, with
regret, that the house has been razed to the eitins and
the shrub destroyed. It must be evident, that this shrub
is held with reverence, as we often see wreaths and gar-
lands of the artificial substituted for the genuine at balls

-
a

Par ae ae
sa a
7

180 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

and parties, where it appears more neat and chaste than the
Jasmine. The broad leaf Roman Myrtle is more desirable
than the narrow, and flowers more freely.

This plant should be watered occasionally over the
foliage, to preserve freshness and its incomparable beauty;
when found to grow straggling it should be cut down
within six or eight inches of the pot, when it will form a
fine, bushy head, in one season. The soil-should be a rich
loam, and the plant re-potted every year or two.

L. pinciana.—This is another delightful fragrant flower-
ing shrub, perennial in duration, of late introduction from
Napul. It was raised from seed by Wm. Pence, of Exeter,
England, avery successful nurseryman (the same person
that raised Fuchsia exoniensis, the handsomest flower of that
numerous tribe of plants). Itis more hardy than is generally
supposed by the English florists. The branches are numer-
cus and opposite; leaves ovate, large, and entire ; flowers
spreading in cymes at the ends of small leafy branches,
out-spreading and nearly uniting, which form a compound
cyme or immense truss, nearly a foot over, giving the plant
a very imposing appearance. ‘The color of the flowers is
a creamy white, slightly tinged with blush.

This plant was named by Sir Wm. Hooker, and in its
general character is very similar to DL. grotissina, but
more robust in habit, and in all probability not so tender.
This shrub is increased by seeds and cuttings in a rich
loamy soil. Its fragrance and easy culture will make ita
general favorite in the green-house or parlor.

ie ae

MARTYNIA FRAGRANS, 181

MARTYNIA FRAGRANS.

This delightful, fragrant annual is a native of Mexico.
The seed of the original plant was sent from Real del
Monte, in 1840, te England, where it is considered the best
annual of late introduction. The flowers are on spikes

7

arising from the point of the stem of the plant; from the

base of the first spike laterals proceed, and thus, in succes-
sion, the plant flowers the whole summer, affording a beau- ©
tiful contrast with the Balsam; these plants should be
sown together, growing about the same height, with cir-
cumference in proportion. The whole plant is hairy, more
or less; the flowers a fine, rich, crimson purple, and their
fragrance delightful. It is well calculated. for parlor cul-
ture, as well as the open ground, growing two feet high.
It will thrive best if the seeds are sown in the fall, potted,
and kept in the parlor through the winter; but will require
shifting often as the roots fill the pot.

It was named after the late John Martyn, the author of
several botanical works. There are several other varieties
of the Martynias, all beautiful plants, but M. fragrans is
considered the best and most valuable acquisition to the
flower garden. The soil should be rich, and their general
culture the same as the Balsam. Therefore, to ensure good
strong plants, if the seed be not sown in the fall, it should
be in February, in a hot bed, and planted out when all dan-
ger of frost is over. .

182 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

MIGNIONETTE.

(RESEDA ODORATA. )

* No gorgeous flowers the meek Reseda grace,
Yet seek with eager trunk yon busy race,
Her simple cup, nor heed the dazzling gem
That beams in Fritillaria’s diadem.”

This sweet and generous scented annual was imported
into Europe one hundred years ago from Africa.. The
leaves are entire, three-lobed; the involucre shorter than
the flowerets, growing from twelve to eighteen inches.
The flowerets are dingy white, of a delightful fragrance,
particularly grateful in a room. |

This favorite is known to the Dutch florists as the Egyp-
tian Bastard Rocket; with us and the French, as Mig-
nionette. Morning and evening the fragrance of this plant
is more sensible than at other times. This desirable per-
fection, in so humble a plant in appearance, has made it a
favorite; three plants are sufficient to fill a room with
fragrance, and make it agreeable to the sense of smelling ;
it is thus im every way desirable as a parlor plant. Being
of easy culture, it can be brought to: flower at any season
in the year.

The soil should not be rich, as it will destroy in some
measure the sweet effects of its odoriferous perfection ;
therefore, a sandy loam is the best. Jt will be necessary
to sow seed the last of July, or beginning of August, to
have it flowering from November to February. The seeds

MIGNIONETTE. 183

should be sown in September, in the open ground; pot the
plants off in four inch pots, gently water them, and screen
them for several cays; then sink the pots in the open
ground, guarding the plants against heavy rains. About
the first of November, remove them into the house to deco- -
rate the window for the coming winter, where they will
flower from December to February. Water the plants
when necessary, which will depend on the heat of the
room. If you sow the seed in pots the last of September, —

_ you will have flowering plants from March to May, afford-
ing some of the sweetest scented flowers half of the year,
in the house, and amusement and pleasure ata season when
many plants are out of flower.

It is said there.is a variety of the Mignionette, called the
Tree, of a shrubby nature, which is increased by cuttings
as well as by seed. There appears to me a doubt on the
subject, for the Mignionette we cultivate as an annual, by
trimming and training, will attain a great height, and if
allowed to spread after, will in some measure appear
shrubby, and live a long time. From this circumstance,
I suspect, has arisen the idea of the Tree variety. If there
be another, it must be scarce, and has not found its way
into general cultivation,

184 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM

Of these splendid succulent plants, there is a numerous
family, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, most of which
are green-house plants, flowering from June to September. .
This tribe is easily propagated by cuttings, taken off in
the spring or fall, and watered sparingly at first. They
are well calculated for rock work, and do well in the open
ground, planted ma bed in May, about eighteen inches
apart. The dwarf kinds should be placed nearest the
path; they require less water than those of a more
vigorous growth, which should be in the middle. To
make them flower well, the sun should be allowed its full
influence, or the flowers will not expand to perfection.
They will require to be watered every day; and your
trouble will be well paid with a splendid display of showy
flowers. In October the plants should be taken up and
potted. Give them good drainage and water sparingly
through the winter. It will be found that plants three
years old will flower best, and they are best suited for the
open ground. The soil should be a rich loam, with one
eighth of sharp sand. Some of the Mesembryanthemums
will live out all the winter in the Southern states, if pro-_
tected from the rain. !

MARVEL OF PERU, OR FOUR O'CLOCK. 185

MARVEL OF PERU, OR FOUR 0°CLOCK.

(MIRABILIS. JALAPA.)

we Wake, then, from thy sunset bower,
Spread thy leaves, my pretty-flower! -
Spread thy leaves, unclose thine eyes,
For the silver moon doth rise,
And the golden stars are coming.”

This is quite a common perennial, and of considerable
beauty, but is generally treated as an annual. It is indi-
genous to the West Indies, and is known better as the
“Four o’Clock.” There are several varieties, all bearing
handsome flowers. It is fusiform rooted (that is, tuberous),
flowering from June until the frost destroys it. The flow-
ers are in clusters, stalked, and the leaves smooth, forming
a well shaped bush, about three feet high. The flowers
seldom expand before four in the afternoon, hence its name
Four o’Clock. The expanded flowers make a very bril-
liant and beautiful appearance in the cool of the evening.
It will grow in any soil, is easily cultivated, and will
flower the first season from seed. ‘This is the reason why it
is treated as anannual. Like the Dahlia, when it is cut down
by the frost, the root should be taken up and preserved ;
and in the spring sprouted with the Dahlia. 1t will grow
readily from cuttings, and will produce much better flowers
than when produced by seedlings of one year’s standing.

i6

\

186 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

MONKEY FLOWER.

(MIMULUs. )

This interesting variety of flowers is principally from
Chili and California. It is an annual of easy culture,
stem smooth, leaves denticulate, slightly hairy, with smooth
ribs; calyx smooth; teeth equal, sharp pointed, turning
backwards; corolla twice the length of the calyx ; stamens
shorter than the corolla; peduncles twice as long as the
calyx. The beauty of this flower has induced the florist
to exert his skill in hybridizing it with decided success.
The one called M. Smzthz, is one of the finest in cultiva-
tion, being across with M. revularis and M. variegatus.
Mr. Smith, of Islington, has met with much success with
this tribe of plants. The one named after him is distinctly
marked with spots on the petals, and laced round the ex-
tremity ; the lower lip of the flower has three dark marks,
and the yellow is of a deep and rich color. Besides these
perfections, the variety is an extremely abundant bloomer,
which still adds to its worth.

The seed should be sown in the fall, in pots, and pre-
served through the winter, when it will flower early in the
spring. The soil must be a rich loam. It will do well
in open ground, but shows to better advantage in a pot, as
a parlor plant, or in the green house. It is also increased
by dividing the roots, or by cuttings taken off in the spring
and summer.

MARIGOLD, —_ 187

MARIGOLD. — |
(CALENDULA.)

* The Marigold, that goes to bed with the sun,
And with him rises weeping.”

This isa numerous family of long established plants,
which has been in cultivation ever since 1683. It is of
easy culture, by sowing the seeds in April; when the
plants are large enough, transplant them to where they
are intended to flower. Persons wishing to cultivate them
to perfection, should be particular and save the largest
flowers for seed, and destroy all those that are not wholly
double, or your variety will soon degenerate to the single
kinds, which are not worth cultivating. Generally speak-
ing, they will accommodate themselves to any soil, and
where grown will scatter their own seed, and.come up in
the spring. Such gratuitous plants should never. be
saved, as no dependence can be placed on them as double
flowers ; therefore be more careful of the choice. seeds, if
you desire good flowers. Linnzas has remarked that the
Marigold opens regularly at nine in the morning, and
closes at three, and ely turns with the sun, like the
Helianthus.

I will name a few of the varieties altiwated at sonra
though some are old plants, but not common... C. grami-
nifolia, the grass leaved Marigold, is a perennial, and is
increased by division of the roots. Between the leaves rise
naked peduncles, nine inches long, bearing one fiower at

al "3

i88 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

the top, of the size of the common Marigold, with a pur-
ple bottom; the rays are purple without, but white withia.
These flowers only expand when the sun shines; they
close in the evening, and remain closed in cloudy weather.
They appear from April to May, when they are in the
greatest perfection. They will flower again in the fall;
from this, one would suppose that warm weather was ob-
noxious to the flowers, were it not from the circumstance of
their opening only when the sun shone on them. This
variety was introduced from the Cape in 1698.

C. viscosa is another plant from the Cape of Good Hope,
with a shrubby stem, and upright ; the bark is of a grayish
color; the branches are herbaceous; the leaves covered
with a shiny substance; leaves alternate, sessile, and
decumbent along the branches ; flowers large and red, ap-
pearing in April and May. This green-house plant was
introduced in 1790.

C. chrysanthemum is the Cape Marigold, an herbaceous
plant, covered with a harsh pubescence; blooms freely
most of the summer, and is ornamental; flowers yellow. -

C. tragus is another variety, about three feet high, with
a weak stem; which requires support while in flower.

It is yellow within and purple without, and fragrant,
which is not the case with all this family of plants. It
will grow readily from cuttings.

C. arvensis, the field Marigold, is a native of Germany,
and neatly allied to the garden variety. It has been cul-
ei ever since 1683.

oficenalis is the common Marigold. The most
Fi difference between this variety and the field
Marigold consists in the stems being loftier, with paler

_

MARIGOLD. 189

‘foliage, and the middle of the leaves are more blunt, the

upper ones more lanceolate. It is a native of France, and
has been in cultivation ever since 1597; the flowers are
orange color, which continue most part of the summer,
giving splendor to the flower garden. It was formerly
held in repute for its medicinal qualities, but the march of
improvement and knowledge has sent these reputed quali-
ties to the shades of oblivion. The country people of
‘England still use the flowers in their broth or soup. Set-
ting aside the coloring matter, 1 am doubtful if there be
any particular attributes in its use.

Of the Golden Marigold there are seven varieties, all
considered showy flowers for annuals. |

C. pluvialis is the small Cape Marigold, which is an
annual, much cultivated; leaves deeply indented on the
edge, of a pale green; stem declining, six inches long,
leafy within two inches of the top; stem leaves narrower
and more indented than those near the root; the stem
grows slender as it nears the top, with the flowers at the
extremity like the common Marigold; they open when the
sun shines, and shut in the evening. When the flower
decays, and during the time the seed is ripening, they hang
down ; when fully ripe, they grow erect again, when the
cultivator is admonished of the time to gather the seed.
This variety is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, and
was first cultivated in Europe in 1726. No particular care
is required in the culture of the annual variety, other than
already named. Those of the green-house require no
more than guarding them against frost, and their flowers
are easily brought to perfection.

190 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

MONK’S HOOD.
(aconrrum.)

Of this tribe of herbaceous perennial flowering plants,
there appear to be innumerable varieties. This arises
from the easy access of the bees in accumulating honey,
and carrying the pollen from flower to flower, thus cross-
ing the plants without further trouble. The following are
the varieties most generally cultivated. The reader may
judge of the merits of the different plants.

A. napellus is the Purple Monk's Hood. The leaves
are divided down the petiole, with linear, acute lobes;
ovaries three, smooth. This species is named from the
form of the root, which resembles a turnip, and is a strong,
active poison; flowers violet purple, alternately on the
spikes ; stem erect, covered with leaves, and about eighteen
inches high. 'I‘he ancients considered it a deadly poison ;
and it is frequently the case that persons in smelling the
flower, such is the nature of its deleterious odor, will
swoon and have their sight affected for several days. It
was the custom in former times to give criminals one
drachm of the root, which was sufficient to destroy the

vital spark of life, so powerful is the effect on the human

system. Many instances could be recorded, where persons
have lost their lives by partaking of the foliage, by mis-
take, with vegetables. The following experiment, which
I hope will not be considered irrelevant, was made by a
Mr, Brodie: —“An ounce of the juice of the leayes was

ro. ——— oa

ae ee ie he

MONK’S HOOD. 191

injected into the rectum of a cat. Three minutes after-
wards, he voided what appeared to be nearly the whole of
the injection. He then stood some minutes perfectly mo-
tionless, with his legs drawn together; at the end of nine
minutes from the time of the injection he retched and
vomited ; then attempted to walk, but faltered and fell at
every step,as if from giddiness. At the end of thirteen
minutes, he lay on his side insensible and’ motionless, ex-
cept some slight convulsive motions of the limbs; the
respiration now became slow and labored, and at forty-seven
minutes from the time of the injection he was apparently
dead; but the heart was found regularly contracting one
minute and a half afterwards, at the rate of one hundred
times in the minute, from which it would seem that the
brain is not directly necessary to the action. of the heart,
and when that action ceases, it is rather in consequence of
the cessation of respiration, which is evident —— the’ in-
fluence of the brain.” _~

A. versicolor is another variety much cultivated ; flowers
smooth, variegated; helmet low; subconical, and growing
about two feet high, very firm in appearance, branching
and forming a fine pyramid. It is a native of Switzerland.
It is increased by tubers at the root, which it produces
freely.

A..pyramidale,—flowers blue ; the spur capitate; helmet
closed. It bears a spike of Bedeion two feet high, and is
the most common. It flowers in May, and makes a pretty
appearance at that season. ‘This species is also a deadly
poison, and therefore ought not to be cultivated unless great
caution is used. It is increased by dividing the roots.

A. venustum is a distinct variety from all others. The

192 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

flowers are sulphur yellow, pubescent outside. This plant
grows two feet high; spur-straight, obtuse; helmet conical
at the base.’ This fine variety was introduced into Europe
in 1807, and is a native of Siberia. ‘There are many more
of late introduction, in addition to a numerous train of
hybrids, bearing beautiful flowers, but not yet common.

The: Monk’s Hood is cultivated in this country in the
green-house, not so much from the tender nature of the
plant, as for the richness of its colors, which are in per-
fection from May to July. It is well calculated for the
flower garden, and is propagated by seeds and division of
the roots. ’

As a narcotic, the whole tribe is dangerous, notwith-
standing the beauty and variety of the flowers. ‘To those
who have children, I would say, it is better to cast it
from the garden, for one unfortunate death would cause
more affliction to the mind of a parent than all the culture
of flowers could alleviate with their gaudy and deceptive
fascinations. |

NARCISSUS.

“« Narcissus fair
As o’er the fabled fountain hanging still.” _

There appears to be a large family of these bulbous

rooted perennials, which are readily increased by offsets at”

the root. All appear to thrive well in a rich, sandy loam,

NARCISSUS. | 193

and have been cultivated from time immemorial. Nar-
cissus T'azetta, Polyanthus narcissus, is a native of Spain,
and is also found on the coast of Barbary. It is one of the
oldest varieties in our flower garden; quite ornamental;
and is imported into this country from Holland, where it
is cultivated to some extent. The word Twzetla is the
name fora small cup which it forms in the centre of the
flower on a scape of about ten inches high, with a delight-
ful fragrance; it generally blooms in May in the open
ground, but can be brought to flower in a pot, and be kept
in the parlor or green-house in March. The flowers are
yellow with an orange color cup; the bulb a little tender,
and, when planted in the open ground, should be protected
~ from the severity of the winter months.

Narcissus orientalis, “Narcissus of the Levant,’ is
another fine variety, and differs from the former in some
respects; still there isa great similitude in the two; the
crown being more triovate and crenate, and equally as
prolific im flowers. Although the flowers are white, the
cups are of a citron yellow; it is ornamental, and one of
the best varieties. It is imported from Holland annually,
but isa native of the Levant, and is called by the Dutch
“Grand Primo Citronienne.”

Narcissus papyraceus.—The “Italian or Paper White
Narcissus” appears to be quite distinct from the above,
having a more shallow crown and a more closely crenulate
margin, and a flatter ancipital scape. The bulbs aresmall
and the corollas white or cream colored. This bulb is
imported from Italy, and is generally called the “ Roman

Narcissus,’ and is also one of the most ornamental in the
17

194 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

whole class, and very fragrant. This, as well as the
others, is rather tender, requiring the same treatment.
Narcissus Jonquil—

‘** Nor gradual bloom is wanting,
Nor hyacinth of purest virgin white,
Low bent and blushing inward, nor Jonquils .
Of potent fragrance.”

The Jonquil is a very attractive species of Narcissus,
“quite hardy, possessing a delightful fragrance, flowering
in April and May. It is often flowered in pots, and kept
in stands with or near the Auricula; this, no doubt, is be-
cause it flowers at the same time, and the sweetness of
its perfume, mixing with that of the Auricula, diffuses a
most pleasing and delightful treat in the cool of the even-
ing. The Jonquil, when planted in the open ground,
should not. be removed for several years, for it does not
flower so well if removed every season. The spathe is
three flowered ; segments reflexed, spatulate; cup in the ~
centre much shorter than the segment, spreading crenate,
much like the Tazetta, not forming so many flowers, but
may be considered a good parlor plant.
The double variety is suitable to stand in a glass with
water, the same as the Hyacinth.
Pseudo Narcissus—

** When early primroses appear,
And vales are decked with Daffedils,
I hail the new reviving year,
And soothing hope my bosom fills.”

&
The Daffodil is the most common kind in cultivation,
perfectly hardy, and a native of England, where itisfound

cgi iui ital le
NARCISSUS. 195

in the woods in great profusion. ‘The bulbs are perennial,
flowering in April and May, throwing up a scape two
edged, with a single yellow flower at the extreme ; segment
of a sulphur yellow, with a serrate, crenate orifice; it is
often planted in bunches in the borders along lawns,
or round the edge of beds, where it increases very fast.
From England this bulb found its way into Holland,
whence it is imported into this country under the specious
name of “Soleil d’Or,” thus disappointing those who pur-
chase them under that name.
Narcissus Poeticus—

_ “Narcissus on the grassy verdure lies;
But whilst within the crystal fount he tries
To quench his heat, he feels new heats arises
. For, as his own bright image he surveyed,
He fell in love with th? fantastic shade;
And o’er the fair resemblance hung unmoved,
- Nor knew, fond youth! it was himself he loved.”

This is the “Poet's Narcissus,’ and an old favorite,
which has been the subject of many poems by writers~ of
old. This highly scented bulbous rooted plant bears a
white flowerim May. ‘The segments are reflexed, imbre-
cate at the base, cup expanded, flat; the anthers shorter than
the tube; leaves erect and narrow. It often disappoints
expectation, for if the flower bud, before expanding, is
pressed with the finger and thumb, it blasts the flower and
prevents its expansion. Indeed it may be considered very
uncertain, at the best; for sometimes it will not flower for
several years. |

Although this flower has attracted so much attention in

196 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

olden time, at this day it is hardly worth cultivation. The
classic associations connected with it endeared it to many,
but at the present day it hardly commands a corner in the
flower garden. Such is the result of changes in the pub-
lic mind. -There are many of this species of bulbs at
the present day enumerated in the Dutch catalogues, but
whether they are really individual varieties, is a matter of
doubt; cultivation alone will alter their appearance, par-
ticularly if not attended to with judgment. It requires
the scrutinizing eye of the botanist to detect its real char-
acter. Care and attention would restore many to their
high cultivated state, while others would retain their prim-
itive standing as degenerated flowers. Then, again, those
in a high state of culture may be crossed, such as Tazetta
orientalis, the Roman Narcissus and Narcissus tazetta,
which no doubt would produce some fine hybrids. When
the Dutch bring forward their numerous lists, we should
look on it with a suspicious eye, for we cannot depend
on their statements. with much assurance. We may
meet with great disappoimtment, as in their Soleil d’Or.

“a
2
oe

“OLEANDER, OR ROSE BAY. 197

OLEANDER, OR ROSE BAY.

(NERIUM OLEANDER.)

» “ There, on the banks of that bright river born,
The flowers that hang above its wave at morn,
- Bless not the waters, as they murmur by,
With holier scent and lustre v1

This is a splendid variety of evergreen shrubs, and quite
a favorite. It was imported into Europe as far back as
1597, and is a native of Asia Minor, where it is found
growing luxuriantly along the banks of rivers and swampy
places. The original color of the flowers is a pink. There
is a white variety in cultivation possessing no merit for
beauty, and for that reason is not much thought of. There
is another with a striped leaf, and one a dwarf, both bearing
pink flowers, and desirable as parlor plants. The large
and common variety will grow from twenty to thirty feet
high, but is getting into disrepute, for when so large it is —
difficult to manage. In the Southern States it will do well
~ in the open ground.

All of the Oleander family are easily cultivated in a rich.
loam, and will grow from seeds, cuttings, or layers. To
increase from seed, they should be sown in the spring, and
will soon come up and flower the second season. It is
seldom we find a florist cultivate the single variety, unless
for the sake of experiment, it being the only kind that will
seed. June is the best time to propagate from cuttings,
when they will strike root freely, if the soil be kept damp;
for that reason a pot is the best to strike them in, and they

198 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

must be kept in the shade. When rooted, pot them off and
treat them the same as old plants.

When plants become large, the best plan is to ist them
in the ground sideways, so that the top can be bent down
with greater facility, and layer them the same as you
would the Carnation ; in six weeks, if well attended, they
will be ready to pot off Many people will plant them m
the open ground in the summer to save trouble, a plan that
ought to be deprecated, as the plant becomes too large to
manage, and causing much more trouble. The best plan
is to keep them in as small pots as possible; this will make
them flower more freely ; repot them every fall or spring.
As the plants progress in size, they should be shifted into
one a little larger. This plant should not be placed out of
doors too early in the spring, as one night’s frost would do
incalculable injury. It will stand the frost better in the
fall than spring.

When the Oleander is planted in the open ground, and
lifted in the fall, great care is necessary not to injure the
root fibres, or you will make the top of the plant flag, and
in ali probability it will never rise again. The only reme-
dy then is to cut off the tops, but you thus disfigure the
plant. In the winter, this plant must be kept in the house,
out of reach of frost; it will require little or no water
when in a state of rest, which will be from the middle of
November to the latter part of February. If well man-
aged, it will flower from June until late in the fall.

ORANGE TREE. 199

ORANGE TREE.

(crrRUus.)

“ Here Orange trees, with flowers and pendants shine,
And vernal honors to their autumn join;
Exceed their promise in the ripened store,
Yet in the rising blossom promise more.”

This exotic is an old and much esteemed favorite orna-
mental tree. It is cultivated in the green-house and parlor,
~ and will bear considerable frost, but is best if protected.

This delightful fruit bearing tree was first introduced into
England in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, in about 1600,
and the first is supposed to have been planted by Sir Fran-
cis Carew, at Beddington, in the open ground. They did
well, but had to be covered with a shed through the win-
ter; unfortunately the winter of 1739-40 destroyed them.
They were considered a great curiosity in their time, for
some had attained fourteen feet high, and their branches
extended fourteen feet; they were nearly two feet round
the trunk.

The Orange generally flowers in May and June; its
color is white, the petioles winged, and the leaves ellip-:
tical, acute, crenate; the fruit globose, with a yellow rind,
possessing a sweet, juicy flavor; they grow freely from
seed sown in the spring, and the seedlings should be
budded in July or August to insure their bearing fruit,
when two or three years old. _ It is supposed that the
Orange is a native of Spain, and that it will live for several
hundred years, under favorable circumstances. It is much

200 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

cultivated in tropical climates, and has become an article
of commerce in all parts of the globe. When treated as
a pot plant, it requires a rich soil, plenty of air, and abune-
dance of water in their growing season, but little in the
winter, for if over watered at that season, it will drop its
leaves, and not recover before the following spring.

There is a large family of the Orange, some edible, and
others cultivated more for ornament. The whole tribe is
suitable for ladies’ culture in the parlor, and when grown
large and difficult to manage, it would be best to part with
them, and recommence again with the seed.

‘

PHEASANTS HYE, OR PLOS- ADONIS,

_ (ADONIS AUTUMNALIS.)

“As many drops of blood as from the wound ~-
Of fair Adonis trickled on the ground,
As many tears as Venus shed in showers;
Both tears and drops of blood were turned to flowers.”? ~

This is a pretty annual for the flower garden, exhibiting
its blood red flowers generally from May to October. The

stem is branching, and grows about one foot high, and the

leaves are three and compound; the flowers cup shape,
opening earlier or later, depending entirely upon the time
the seeds are sown. The flower is a particularly bright
red color, the pericarp reticulated.

This plant is familiarly known in the ee in ipa

PHEASANTS EYE, OR FLOS-ADONIS. 201

asa weed. Its beautifui appearance has made it a favorite
in the garden, nearly as much'so as the Anemone, to
which it is somewhat allied, and may be easily recognised
with that and its varieties. Classic story says this flower
sprung up where the blood of Adonis fell, and a fable was
concocted from the circumstance of the wound being in-

flicted by a boar, while hunting; hence the name of

-

Adonis Flower. The signification of the Pheasant’s Eye

is the great affinity in color to the eye of a bird of that

name in England; the centre being black, and sur-
rounded with a blood red. It was formerly supposed it
possessed medical properties, but the advance made in
chemistry has abandoned: the idea of that quality.. It is
of easy culture, accommodating itself to almost any kind
of soil. This, like a few other annuals, if sown in the
fall, will withstand the severity of the winter; in the
spring it should be transplanted to where it is intended
to flower. By sowing the seeds. at different periods it
can be brought to flower at any time in the season, thus
making it a desirable plant.

202 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

PORTULACA.

(PURSLANE. )

“Thou art areveller of day,
A fair rejoicing child of night;
Glad, while the sun beams o’er their play,
But drooping in the quiet night.”

Portulaca thellasont, splendens, and gilesii, are very
hoary, half hardy, succulent plants, of late introduction.
They are a species of Purslane, known so well as a weed
in our flower garden, and so difficult to eradicate. These
beautiful plants are decidedly ornamental in the flower
garden, bearing flowers of a showy description, of different
colors. It has a procumbent stem, and diffused branches;
leaves glabrous, alternate, and seldom opposite ; flowers
terminal in four, one expanding at a time, cup shaped,
showing their beautiful corollas only in bright sunshine ;
stamens inserted with the plate in the base of the calyx,
variable in number, all fruitful; capsula one-celled ; seed
small, round, and numerous, of a lead color; when ripe,
the cap is thrown off, exposing the seed in a cup, and if
not gathered without delay, they will be scattered by the
wind. The flowers last buta day. As the plants increase
in size, the more numerous are the flowers, and they will
continue to expand until cut down by the frost. P. splen-
dens is a rosy crimson, P. thellasoni orange scarlet, P.
gilesiz a purple. 3

-The Portulaca or Purslane tribe are natives of the Cape
of Good Hope, New Holland, and South America, and

«ee —

PORTULACA: . 203

many other parts, all of easy culture, either by seed or cut-
tings taken off any time through the summer, which will
grow in any common garden soil. ‘T’hese plants, so lately
added to our flower garden, are not only valuable for
their splendid appearance, but they make an admirable
pickle. 'The seeds should be sown early in the spring,
and they will generally appear in ebout thirty days.
When one inch high, they should be transplantéd. —
Where a plant has once flowered, innumerable seedlings
will appear early in the spring; they can be easily trans-
planted. They are desirable for the parlor, and can be
allowed to fall over the sides of the pot, exhibiting a
pleasing effect. When in a bed by themselves, they have
a magnificent appearance beyond description, and should
be in all well regulated gardens.

PASSION FLOWER.

(PASSIFLORA. )

* Who loves a garden loves a green-house too;
Unconscious of a less propitious clime,
There blooms exotic beauty, warm and snug,
While the winds whistle and the snow descends.’

This exotic beauty is a general favorite, and may be
considered one of the handsomest climbing plants attach-
ed to the green-house. Itwas named by Linneus, The
plant is named from passio, and jlos a flower; the cross

204 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

in the centre, surrounded by filaments, is said to be em-
blematical of our Saviour’s Passion. ‘This species of flow-
er has been in cultivation for more than two centuries,
and comprises a numerous family from Asia and other
parts. The larger part requires the genial warmth of the
ereen-house to bring them to perfection, while others are de-
sirable for the parlor, and can be trained around the window
during the summer, giving the room a novel appearance

with their beautiful flowers; im October they can be cut ~

down or twisted around a stick, and placed away until the
following spring.

P. caerulea is hardy, and will live out of doors with
a slight protection. The leaves are composed of five
lobes; the flowers pale greenish white; the filaments
purple at the base, white at the middle, and blue at the
tips. It will continue to grow until killed down by the
frost.

P. kermesina is one of the best in cultivation. It is
rather tender, but may be brought to flower well dur-
ing the summer in the parlor; the wood is rather slen-
der, but free in growth, and abounds with flowers, which
are a beautiful crimson, forming a fine contrast with its
delicate. foliage; the leaves are three-lobed, and the un-
der part of the young leaves, of a purple cast.

P. middletoniana ot fragrans, and P. actinia, ate
delightfully fragrant varieties. ‘These, and many others
are very desirable, but to name all would occupy too
much space. All the varieties will grow readily from
cuttings in the early spring, and also from seed. The
pots must be well drained, and should be not less than

nine inches for a full grown plant. The soil must be

a

$

a. ee

. PASSION FLOWER. 205

a rich loam. In summer they need no further care
than any other plant, which is of a running nature;
it is, therefore, one of the most desirable exotic trellis
plants in cultivation. In the winter they require but
little water, and may be kept in a pit or warm room,
but in their growing season they require abundance
of water, and the young shoots should be kept free
from each other, as they progress in growth; for if
* once entangled, they will be much damaged in your
attempts to extricate and loosen their tender branches.

+

= PIMPERNEL.
(ANAGALLIS ARVENSIS.)

“ far bonny Kate bound her golden hair,
Nith a velvet wreath for the village fair,
And tripped with the grace of a gay gazelle,
Where blushes the delicate Pimpernel;
For a prophetess true is that lonely flower,
She warns us ever of tempest hour;
When the rain-cloud shadows her humble head,
She folds her petals of brilliant red,
And keeps her sunny heart warm within,
Like a fair girl shutting out grief and sin.”

This is a delightful little annual, a native of Europe,
whose flowers appear to be as sensitive to the changes of
-the weather as the barometer. It-is often called the

_Shepherd’s Weather Glass.” _ The leaves are ovate,

;
906 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

sessile, and dotted beneath; the corolla, expanding only
in fine weather, is ragged, glandulouse. It will succeed
in a sandy loam, and grow from cuttings or from seed.
The flowers are orange scarlet, of engaging appearance,
and require a trellis to show them to advantage. Their
pretty little corollas open only when the sun shines ; when
the clouds obscure the sky, and it is likely to rain, they
close up. This is a singular imstinct in this plant. It
flowers from June to September. Although considered a
weed in Europe, and found only in cultivated fields, it
is a great favorite not only with the florist, but with
birds and insects, who seek and devour the seeds with
avidity.

The beauty of this flower recommends itself to the no-
tice of the ladies. When on a trellis, its numerous flowers

_of scarlet, with a purple circle at the eye, which open at

7 o'clock in the morning, and close at 2, make a beautiful
appearance.

A. cerulea is the blue flowered Pimpernel, having a-

carmine spot on the base of each. As the scarlet is
marked with the purple, some of the ancient writers are
of opinion that the blue is the female and the red the
male plant. It has often been remarked that sheep will
not eat the blue variety, but will the scarlet. This appears
strange, and shows there must be a vast difference m the
two plants. Both plants are highly esteemed, and should
be cultivated in the same room ; their beautiful contrast in
colors rakes them more interesting. .

A. fruiticosa, the large flowered Pimpernel, is another

and desirable variety. The leaves are more lance shaped
and less oval, and more splendid than A. arvensis, and dif-

. ae Sar S Ye: ae

PIMPERNEL. 207

fer materially, as it remains open night and day, the
weather having no effect on the flowers. It grows readily
from cuttings, and must be kept from frost through the
winter ; it is also propagated by seed. It will not seed un-
less planted in the open ground in the summer ; it-will be
best, therefore, to keep some in the house and some in the
garden. It was introduced into cultivation in 1803.

A. latifolia, the broad leaved Pimpernel, and A. monelli,
the blue Italian, bear some affinity to each other. The
first was introduced in 1759, the latter in 1648; both are
desirable plants, but as they approach so near, one is
enough in a collection.

A. tenella is calied the Bog Pimpernel; it is a delightful
flowering plant, found in boggy situations in Europe, flow-
ering from June to August. The flowers are erect, on
long axillary stalks; corolla a beautiful rose color, deeply
divided; stamina clothed with numerous and curiously
jointed faite The nature of this plant not admitting of its
cultivation in the garden, makes it a pot plant for the par-
lor. {t must be kept in’a saucer of water, to make it
flower to perfection, and the soil should be taken from a
marshy place. ‘The other plants require a loamy soil.

= F a
4 :

208 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

POMGRANATE.

(PUNICA -GRANATUM.) ©

This is a beautiful shrubby perennial plant, which will.

attain the height of ten feet. It is a native of Arabia, Per-
sia, and Japan, and is cultivated chiefly for the beautiful
- appearance of its double scarlet flowers, at the ends of
the young branches. The petals are round, somewhat
wrinkled, and inserted in the upper part of the tube of the
calyx; the fruit is globular, of a dingy yellow, the rind
divided internally in many cells, each containing an acid-
ulous pulp, and oblong angular seed; the leaves are oppo-
site, oblong, pointed at each end, and of a bright green
color, glossy, on short foot stalks.

In tropical climates the Pomegranate is cultivated for the
fruit, which is a pleasant acid, and of sweet delicious
flavor, much praised as a desert among the higher classes
of people; but with us the fruit is worthless. It is only
cultivated for the ornamental appearance of the flowers,
which are certainly noble in mid-summer. It is easily
managed, and will grow ina rich loam; in the winter it

may be placed in the cellar, out of the reach of frost; in

April it should be repotted, and encouraged: in its growth
by watering sparingly at first, then place it on a lawn in
the open garden, and it will expand its beautiful flowers to
perfection. It is increased by suckers; which it sends up

plentifully, and which should be taken off in the spring,

and potted in.a rich loam, and treated the same as full

¥
¥

>
‘ ’

POMGRANATE, 209

grown plants. Cuttings, also, may be taken off in the
spring, and treated like other cuttings.

PANSY, OR HEART’S EASE.

(viona TRICOLOR. )

%“ Pansies, sweet tenants of the shade,
ror ie purple’s richest pride arrayed,
4 Your errand here fulfil:
Go! bid the artist’s simple strain
Your lustre imitate in vain,

And patch your Maker’s skill.”

It would be impossible to trace this beautiful Aiiees to
its origin, from its having passed under different names.
The Greeks called it Phicr,a name now assigned to a

very different flower. Some trace its name and origin to.

the days of fable, and identify it with Io, daughter of
Midas, who, as the early poets say, was changed by Diana
to a violet, to hide her from Apollo, who was enamored of
this earth born beauty. It isa lovely allegory, for this
modest flower, after the lapse of so many centuries, still
retains the bashful timidity of the nymph, partially con-
cealing itself in its own foliage, and that of the neighbor-
ing shrubs and plants, and shrinking from the gaze of the
sun in his vernal search for his long lost Io, the object of
his love. In modern times it has gone by the more prosaic
name of “Love in Idleness,” “Johny Jump-up,” “ Heart's

Ease,” “ Ladies’ Delight,’ &c., but as we are adopting .

18

210 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

French fashions in almost every thing, this pretty plant
has taken the cognomen of Pensée or Pansy, by which it
is generally known in’ Europe and America. It has
grown much into repute, of late years, with florists.
Twenty years ago, its size did not exceed a ten cent
piece, though even then attractive to the eye of every
‘person who had the least pretension to taste, or love for
flowers. I have seen children sit in a garden and look at
it with admiration for a long time, as if conscious of its
surpassing beauty. By means of hybridizing this splendid
variety of violets, the florist has brought them to the ne
plus ultra of perfection, and we now see them of enormous
size, over two inches in diameter. It is extremely variable
in size and in the color of the flowers; the stem is angular
and branching ; the leaves oblong, crenate; stipules lyrate,
pinnatified ; petioles somewhat longer than the calyx, and
stand well, presenting a majestic loftiness. The color of
the petals is beautifully contrasted, and the eye distinctly
pencilled. These beautiful flowers should encourage a
refined taste, among the ladies in particular, as they are
well’ adapted for their culture, and are easily managed.
When planted in a border, in their tasteful style, what can
be more attractive? The unbounded and endless variety
of colors possessed by this flower, convinces me it is des-

tined to be a favorite. No department in Flora’s whole
catalosue could be-more congenial to the refinement of

ladies than this unsurpassable plant; and to enable them
to cultivate it with the greatest ease, I will lay down such
instruction as will give them the least embarrassment.

The seed should be sown in pans, in the middle of Feb-

ruary and March, and again in August and September, in ~

fea ee

PANSY, OR HEART'S EASE. 2tt

a sandy loam, and as evenly as possible; for if crowded,
the largest plants would cause the smaller'to damp off It
will be necessary to keep ther well watered ; and when
the seedlings have acquired a few leaves, siaisphing thein.
On one point I would caution young beginners: never
transplant in the months of June, July, or August, as the

_ weather in this country is too warm; consequently your
plants would die for want of nourishment, before they

could make fresh root.

Roots may be divided at any time in the year, with the
exception of the months above named, for transplanting.
In dividing the roots, do not use a Aisi let it be done
with your fingers, and let each part be furnished with root
fibres; and before you put them into the ground or pot, be
sure you wash the soil from the roots. The Pansy is a
great deteriorator of soil, which makes it absolutely neces-
sary to use this precaution, to meet with success. Cuttings
make the best plants, and produce the largest flowers; and
the cultivator’s success depends on this system of operation.
Cuttings should be taken from young and healthy plants,
and not exceed three joints, which must be cut with a very
sharp knife close to the joint. If the knife is dull, it will

press the joint injuriously, and cause a failure, and if you

leave any wood below the joint, it will rot; therefore be
careful, and avoid a stem that is hollow, or you will fail.

When your cuttings are ready, water the soil in the pot,
and when settled, put in the cuttings to nearly one inch of
the top, and press the soil close about them ; then cover
them with a small bell glass, or tumbler, to riled the
air; place them in the shade for about two weeks; give

212 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

them air and water; when the leaves are dry cover them
again, or the plants will damp off. In. six weeks you will
begin to perceive them growing, and if inclined to run up
tall, pinch off the tops. ‘Sometimes your plants will grow
tall without having any roots, but pinching off the top will
make them throw out root fibres: Pansies propagated in
this manner, seldom seed well; but that is of no conse-
quence, as you can get the finest flowers by cuttings, and
seed can be always purchased at seed stores.

. Pansies are sometimes propagated by layering, but this
is done chiefly with the common varieties, the cultivation
of which is hardly worth the trouble bestowed on them,
while we have such fine varieties. The large Pansy does
not seed so freely as the common kind, and the plants will
have to be watched closely when you discover seed pods,
for it is difficult to collect them. The seed pod generally
hangs down, as if to guard:the vessel from rain, and dew
at night; but the day before the seed is discharged, the
capsules will be reversed by holding themselves up ; when
you find this to be the case, you may pinch them off and
keep them in a glass to dry and open, and the seed may be
sown soon, as directed above.

Whenever you find your plants stingcinfidel oily Oo
take the roots up, wash them with soap suds, and plant
them in another situation, or they will be destroyed by the

aphides at the root. Should you discover the ants at a time ©

the roots could not be removed with safety, take some suds
made from whale oil soap, and water them two or three
times; this will destroy the aphides at the roots, and the
ants will soon disappear. The Pansy delights in the

PANSY, OR HEART'S EASE, 213

shade, but not under the drop of other plants or trees. It
would be better to place them in the open ground.
ed © eee >

PRIMROSE FAMILY.
(PRIMULA.) eo

“ T know not what it was that made
My heart to love thee so;
For though all gentle things to me
_ Were dear, long, long ago,
There was no bird upen the bough,
No wild-flower on the lea,
No twinkling star, no running brook,
I loved so much as thee;
¥ watched thy coming every spring, .
And hailed thee as a living thing!” ¢
This pretty little flower of poetry, the Primrose, is a
native of England, and is found blooming in the greatest

perfection in copses, in the margin of brooks, lanes, and

other shady situations, during the months of March and
April. The leaves are ovate, toothed, rugose, villous

beneath; umbels radical; flower stalks as long as the

leaves ; corolla flat?) This tribe is generally considered
to consist of the. Polyanthus, Primrose, Cowslip, and Ox-

lip, all of which are cultivated as florist’s flowers. How

these four can be considered-as the same family, I am
at a loss. to tell, for the Polyanthus appears as distinct

214 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

from the Primrose, as the Auricula is from the Polyan-
thus; consequently they will be treated accordingly. ~

The Primrose is a perennial rooted plant, and can be
propagated either by dividing the root or by seed. It has
been the theme of many a ditty with poets, for several
hundred years, and has sustained its reputation asa favorite
flower up to the present day, which is more than can be
said of many flowers now in cultivation, ten years hence.
The color of the flower is a brimstone yellow, possessing
a fragrance much like the Anise. When a boy, I have
frequently found them in copses, of a purple crimson, beau-
tiful in appearance, growing on a single stem, and flower-
ing profusely. Where the ground contains moisture these
flowers are most profuse and luxuriant, and in a few
minutes a person could pick as many as he could con-
veniently carry in one hand, at a season when scarcely
any other flowers had made their appearance, thus en-
livening our imagination at the approach of spring

The Cowslip :—

“« Transplanted thus, how bright you grow;
How rich a perfume do you yield!

_ In some close garden, Cowslips so, ~
Are sweeter than in open fields.”

Yes! the Cowslip luxuriates in the open meadows, or in

the garden, throwing up a scape with a bunch of flowers
feo) ) ro)

each about the size of half a dime; in color inclining
to the orange, bestowing quite an enchanting appearance.
Frequently, amongst this tribe of flowers, will be found
the Oxlip, which appears to be a hybrid between the Prim-
rose and Cowslip, having the stem of the latter and the

TN 5 a
Pn hae
"OF

Piel ie. ae = «& 2A sca

PRIMROSE FAMILY. | 215

flower of the former. I have never seen either of the lat-
ter sport in colors in the fields, but have by cultivation ;
their colors, even then, are dingy, and, I think, are no im-
provement on their natural hues. Primroses have the
ascendency in that particular, for we see them yellow,
white, red, crimson, and carmine; there are also the dou-
ble yellow, white, dmgy white, lilac, crimson, and car-
mine, all of which are magnificent. The double are
styled by botanists, monsters, being a sport of nature; but
it strikes me if nature would sport more among her boun-
teous gifts in the flower department, we should feel grateful
for such monsters. .

The Primrose family can be easily propagated, by divid-
ing the roots in ‘the spring, or fall. It must not be done
with a knife, but with the fingers, or with the end of a
budding knife of ivory or bone; when divided, pot each
part that has root fibres, give them a gentle watering, and

set them in the shade. To propagate from seed, it will be ©

necessary to sow them in February, in a box or pan, with
a compost that will retain moisture ; cover the seeds lightly,
and in six weeks they will be up;’ be careful and not let
the sun shine on them after nine in the morning, or you
may lose the plants. The Primrose is considered hardy,
and is really so after the first season in this country. In
the summer this plant, like the Polyanthus, is subject to
be injured by the red spider. This insect can be easily
destroyed by soap suds, made of whale oil soap; but so
long as you can keep the plants in a healthy, growing
State, there is no danger from them. The saccharine mat-
ter contained in the leaves, affords them nourishment as
the summer advances, which must be checked by water.

eee

ae ae
‘
216 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ing freely over the foliage, or your pleas will “dwindle
ney and die.

a

Ba 1.0 Xo

(LYCHNIDEA.)

This is decidedly one of our best native flowering plants,
and is found growing in perfection im the Western States.
It is perennial in duration, very showy, and strikingly or-
namental. It is well calculated for the border of the
flower garden, by its flowering so freely at almost ali sea-
sons of the year, depending on the variety. It is more
cultivated in Europe than in this country, where many
new hybrids have been added to the list by fecumdation ;
some of the dwarfs are well calculated for pot culture.

The general character of this family of plants is pretty
well known ; they differ but little, and the difference is”
most conspicuous among the hybrids. The capsules are
three-celled; the segments divided into five; the corolla
flat, supported by a tube about one inch long; stigma
irified; calyx five cleft; flowers pannicled, on corymb
elongated on the stem, or terminate, and gorgeous in ap-
pearance. In the open ground the piants require but little
attention or protection through the winter, and are easily
propagated by seed, cuttings, or division of the roots. To
propagate from seed, if new varieties be the object, you
must take the pollen from one flower with a camel's hair

PHLOX. 217

it

pencil and lay it on the pistil of the one you wish to cross,
of a different variety: By this means. your object may be
obtained; it will be useless to expect a hybrid unless. the
fecundation takes place. This will necessarily require a
great nicety to perfect. . If by cuttings the stem should be
cut in lengths of about three joints, taken any time before
the flowers show; or take the lateral shoots, which will

. do as well, always cutting close under the joint ; if by
division of the roots, it should be done in the spring
or fall.) .

The Phlox generally flowers best the second season
after removal. ‘I’o be grown well the plant should be
temoved every three or four years.. The soi! should bea
‘rich loam, not too dry, as the plant. deli ghts in moderately
moist situations. By following this rule the cultivator
will find himself amply remunerated for his trouble by 2
_profusion of very desirable flowers. The late Mr. Drum-
mond, in his travels through Mexico, discovered a very

. splendid annual variety, much esteemed and cultivated to

of that botanist. This variety will strike readily from cut-
tings; and it seeds freely in any common garden soil.

PHONY.

of this species there are two varieties, both magnrficent
plants, and -worthy of cultivation. There are about fifty

sub-varieties, shrubby and herbaceous. The herbaceous
7 :

Le.

~~

great extent; it has been named P. drummondiz, in honor ©

918 A QUIDE TO FLCRICULTURE,

is tuberous or fusiform rooted, of easy culture, and perfectly
hardy. It isa native of Switzerland, and cther parts of
Europe, and has been in cultivation about one hundred ~
years. The most splendid variety is the P. whitlegu,a
large white, of splendid appearance, and fragrant. P.
fragrans is a rose color, possessing the odor and color.
of the rose, and is frequently called the Rose Peony. P.
humeii isa pink. All three are double and fine, and desi-
rable in all well arranged gardens of moderate size, but
too large for a small one. It is increased by dividing the
root in the fall.

For new varieties, the seed should. be sown in Septem-
ber, or early in the spring, in a box or pan, drilled in about
half an inch deep. When the plants come up, they must
be kept clean and be watered moderately in dry weather.
It will take several years before the seedlings flower; they
must be top-dressed every fall, and require some protection
for the first two seasons; to save trouble they may be plant-
ed in the open ground. Although perfectly hardy, it is
best to have the roots covered with old manure. If it is
desired to increase these plants, it must be done with a
knife, leaving an eye to every piece that has fibres. This
should be done in October; and if the roots are not too
small, they will flower the next spring.

This variety should never be removed in the spring, if
it can be avoided, as it will not do so well; besides, it will
prevent the plant from flowering that season. The shrubby |
kind is a splendid variety ; if allowed to remain out of
doors, it will require a slight protection, and; in conse-
quence of flowermg early, the flowers are likely to suffer
from the effects of spring frost. It is also increascd by

is

ia

ee . renee
part

PONY, 219

seed, and by layering; if by seed, in the same manner as
recommended for the herbaceous. As this variety is
more tender than the other, it will require more care.
The shrubby may also be increased by cuttings, and by
grafting into the other root.
The following directions are copied from Maund’s
Botanic Garden, part vi, page 241:—“In February, se-
lect any of the stems of the Peonia Moutan, or all may
be used; and, at the distance of half an inch from the
centre of each bud, both above and below it, cut entirely
round the stem a small ring of the bark, rather more
than the sixteenth of an mch wide, in the manner of
common ringing, as practised on fruit trees; thus every
bud will occupy an inch of the stem, when the direct
construction of its bark is obstructed, both above and _ be-
low, by the rings which have been cut out of it. The
stems thus prepared, are then to be laid, horizontally,
about three inches beneath the soil, lapel only the
- leading bud at the end of each branch above the surface.
In six months every bud will have made vigorous shoots,
and in general will have two radical fibres at its: base.
In August remove the soil from above the layers, and,
having raised the newly made shoots, carefully separate
each young root from the main layer, by passing a small
knife from one ring to the other, cutting out about one
third part of the oldstem. The young plants should be im-
mediately potted, to remain till they are required for
planting out in their final situation. After thus gather-
ing the first crop of young plants, the old layers should
be again covered with good soil, and left as before; and
in the following summer, a second and greater crop

220 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.
4

of plants will be produced than the first season; and,
what is more remarkable, they will issue from vari-
ous parts of the stem, where no trace of a bud was pre-
viously indicated.” |

This variety should be kept in a 2 pit in this coun-
try, during the winter, and when the flower buds are
ready to expand should be brought into the green-house,
or parlor, to perfect them, which makes a magnificent
show. After their flowermg season is over, they may
be placed out of doors for the remainder of the sea-
son. ;

The best varieties of this species are the Moutan
Banksiz, a pink color, very large and double, and beau-
tiful in appearance; and the M. papaveracea, poppy
flowered. The flowers of the latter are single, white,
with a purple centre, and very magnificent, although sin-
gle. The other varieties are fine, but the above are con-
sidered the best by florists. ous

PETUNIA.

‘Some, more aspiring, catch the neighbor shrub
With clasping tendrils, and insert his branch,
Else unadorned, with many a gay festoon, °
And fragrant chaplet ; recompensing well
The strength they borrow with the grace they lend.”

This is a beautiful flowering plant, biennial in gies
and branching ; leaves elliptical, smooth edge, of a light and

PETUNIA. 221

delicate green. It may be considered one of our choicest
exotics, of late introduction, flowering from May until the
frost kills them in the fall. From its habit of branching
it will cover the space of twenty feet. It is a native of
Buenos Ayres, from which place the seed was sent by Mr.
Tweedie fifteen years ago. It will grow in any common
garden soil, and the more exposed to the sun, the mote
freély will it flower. It is therefore well adapted for plant-
ing out in the open ground, and is well suited for the flower
pot, or trained toa trellis of any shape. The propensity
of this plant for branching so much, and flowering at the
same time, gives ita commanding appearance and makes
it desirable for the parlor window.

There are, several varieties, and when planted in a bed
or border, they will easily cross, and seed freely. The
seeds are small, but easily saved, if required, and will sow
themselves and come up early in the spring, when they
can be transplanted: ‘The Petunia is easily propagated by
seed, or by cuttings taken at any season, and when planted
it needs no further trouble than clearing out the weeds. Its
easy culture and fine appearance will always: recommend
it to public favor. ‘The roots of choice varieties should be
taken up in the fall, the branches partially trimmed off,
and parted; they will keep through the winter, if guarded
against frost, and will flower better the second season. . All
biennials will not flower the first season; this plant is an
exception, though generally cultivated as in annual, ‘The
English florists have been very successful in hybridizing
this variety, and have produced some of the most splendid
flowers imaginable. It is to be regretted that but few
will reach this country, as the plants do not pack well.

222 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

POLYANTHUS.

(PRIMULA.)

~ “Fair plant! as plentiful as fair!
Before thou meet’st the eye,
Thy fragrance fills the summer air,
And tells that thou art nigh.”

This beautiful herbaceous evergreen is a perennial,
highly ornamental, nearly equal to the Auricula. It flowers
from March to May.. The leaves are ovate and toothed,
throwing up a stem about six inches high, bearing a beau-
tiful truss, and emitting a delightful fragrance; it is every
way grateful for its delicacy. It is considered by some
botanists to belong to the Primrose family. A Mr. Her-
bert has endeavored to prove this, in the London Herticul-
tural Transactions, Vol. iv, page 19. He states that from
the natal seed of the Cowslip, he raised a Primrose, a Cow-
slip, an Oxlip, a Polyanthus, a Hose-in-hose Cowslip, and

a Primrose bearing its own flowers on a Polyanthus stalk.
From this circumstance he is induced to beheve that all

are of the same family. This doctrine may have suited
other times, when flowers were not so well understood as
at present. ‘There is no doubt that Mr. Herbert was sin-
cere in his belief; but his seed may have got mixed by
accident, or some of his flowers may have become impreg-
nated, thus producing the difference in varieties. I have
tried the experiment; gathering the seed myself, but the
result was always the same as the original plant. ‘There
is no florist at this day that will advance such an hypothesis ;

POLYANTHUS, yy 3

anthus be a sport of the Cowslip, or Oxlip, it is strange,
- “tis passing strange,” that it should not be found to return
to its primitive state, as other plants will, at times. There
is no doubt the origin of the Polyanthus is lost, like the
Carnation and many other plants, that have been in culti-
vation from time immemorial. The Polyanthus appears
to be a distinct species, as much so as the Auricula; culti-
vation, no doubt, has much improved the one as well as
the other. It is frequently the case you will find the
Primrose sporting in the copses in England, where they
bear a stronger affinity to the Polyanthus than the Cow-
slip. Whoever saw the Cowslip sport to the Polyanthus
in the fields? There is no doubt but the Oxlip is a sport
between the Primrose and Cowslip. The seed- of the
Cowslip can be purchased of various colors, which is effected
by culture. The flowers differ widely from the Polyanthus
in beauty, form, and fragrance; therefore the Polyanthus
must be a different variety by itself. }

‘This beautiful and desirable perennial is increased by
dividing the roots in the fall. The seed should be sown,
if you wish to obtain new varieties, in February, in a box
or pan, and be very lightly covered ; it is desirable to cover
the soil with snow, if there should be any about the
middle of the month, as you could thus sow the seed more ,
evenly, and when the snow melted, the seed would be
carried down to a sufficient depth to germinate. The soil
should be a rich loam, and be kept moist, and receive the
benefit ofthe morning sun only. - When the plants appear,
they should be protected against the spring frosts and
heavy rains; and as soon as the seedlings will bear trans-
‘planting, set them about two inches apart, in a shady —

224 A GUIDE TO FLCRICULTURE.

situation, and regularly water them through the summer.
In September the seedlings should be potted off smgly, and
be removed to a place secure from frost during the winter,
as seedlings are tender.

To increase by division of the roots is the only way of
increasing the same variety, when you have a choice flow-
er. September is the best time for that purpose; it should
be done with the thumb and fingers; not witha lmife, which
has a tendency to destroy the plants. It is necessary tO-
divide the root once in two years, at farthest, or your plants
will degenerate or die. There is one thing remarkable in
good plants; by allowing them to seed, they will frequently
die. This must be guarded against, unless you have a
duplicate plant. Seedlings generally produce the best
flowers, and are the only certain means of getting new
varieties. ‘The amateur should only save those plants that
prove firm and with elastic foot stalks; never allow more
than seven flowers on a plant; observe that the eye is
round, of a clear yellew color; the ground color of a rich
crimson and velvety appearance, with a clear and distinct
eaging round the petals, which can be observed at twenty
feet distance. The flower should be perfectly flat, without
curving either way. The pin eyed plant is considered by
florists not fit for a show plant. This plant is liable to be de-
stroyed by the red spider; and the plan recommended im the
treatise on the Primrose family is also applicable to this, to
prevent their destruction. Maiden soil from the commons
is the best for this plant, with one third cow manure, at
ieast three years old, mixed three months, and exposed to
the weather before used,

POLYANTHUS, © 225

PYRAMIDAL BELL-FLOWER.

(CAMPANULA PYRAMIDALIs.)

St

This flower was once held in great estimation, but of late
years has fallen into disrepute, notwithstanding it is a fine
perennial flowering plant. Fashion may displace many
of our old border flowers, but eventually they will be re-

_ placed, and many of those of later introduction, cast ,aside.

The leaves of this plant are ovate, smooth, fad cordate ;
the stem upright, elongated, milky, growing about four feet
high, pannicled, vith branches from bottom to top ; ieaves
Redalted, shortly toothed, and terminated by a’ gland;

corolla five cleft, spreading. ‘this plant is found in Bet
and Savoy, and was introduced into England four hundred
years ago. It is increased by cuttings, division of the root,
and by seed; by cuttings from the stem before the flowers
expand, by division of the roots in the fall, and by seed the
same as other perennials. Like C. medium, it can be
grown in pots and havea good effect. C. pyramidalis is
called the “Steeple, or Chimney Campanula,” on account
of attaining a lofty growth ; it. was often trained to trellis
work on account of branching, and then placed in front of
the fire place to flower. It is perfectly hardy, delights in a

- rich loam, but does not like a composition made from fresh

e. @

manure; the compound therefore ought to be made six
months before being used. The soil should be two-thirds
sandy loam, one-third cow. manure (four years old at
ieast).. They will then flower in the greatest perfection in

a

—

226 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

the house, if allowed plenty of air in the day, from June to
August.

ROSE CAMPION.

(AGRASTEMMA CORONARIA.)

This is a pretty herbaceous perennial, and well adapted —
for the border of the flower garden. It is known as the
“Mullen Pink.” ‘There are several varieties, some bearing
rose colored flowers, and others a flesh or dingy white;
there is also a double variety, but it is scarce in this
country. |

The single varieties are raised from seed sown in April,
in good garden soil ; in the second season they wil! flower,
and can then be increased by dividing the root in the fall.
It was originally imported from Italy, is perfectly hardy,
and remains green through the winter, enlivening the
scene when scarce any other perennial assumes a pleas-
ing aspect.

ROCKET LARKSPUR, Q27

ROCKET LARKSPUR.

(DELPHINIUM: AJACIs.)

This is a beautiful annual for the flower garden, grow-
ing about eighteen inches high, of various colors, and all
double, flowering from May to June. Like many other
Visite annuals, it succeeds best if sown in the fall,
drilled in rows, in a bed; and, if lightly protected in said
winter, will, in the spengs give the garden as much gran-
deur as a bed of Tulips. There are a number of other
varieties in cultivation, some perennial; but the Rocket is
decidedly the best, and easily cultivated. The soil should
be rich; never sow them in the same bed the second sea-
son, as the Larkspur is a great deteriorator of soil. In the
. spring a second sowing should be made; they will thus
be in flower at different periods.

228 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

ROSE.

(ROSA.)

“Tf, on creation’s morn, the King of Heaven
To shrubs and flowers a sovereign queen had given,
O, beauteous Rose! He had anointed thee,
Of shrubs and flowers the sovereign queen to be!
The spotless emblem of unsullied truth;
The smile of beauty, and the glow of youth;
The garden’s pride, the grace of vernal bowers,
The blush of meadows, and the eye of flowers.”

The Rose is generally considered the Queen of Flowers,
and. deservedly so; its beauty, fragrance, and majestic
appearance, unquestionably command. our admiration.
The attributes of this inestimable beauty have never lost
one atom of merit, from its earliest culture down to the
present time. It is so well known to the common obser-
ver, at first sight, as to require no particular description,
‘and all the eulogium lavished on this prominent beauty,
or any of its varieties, would fall short in doing them
justice. — ,

Many rivals of late have been brought forward; the
most formidable among them is the Dahlia, equal in beauty
but deficient in odor, leaving the Rose still the diadem of
the world, in floral greatness. Could the Dahlia be once

endowed with that essential to perfection,.a grateful fra-

grance, then, indeed, might the lover of that flower have
some pretension to rivalship; until then, the Rose, the
queen of flowers, must and will reign, predominant.

7

—

4

;

ROSE. 229

* Eye of the garden, queen of flowers, —
Love’s cup, wherein nectarous power,
Engendered first of nectar, .
Sweet nurse-child of the spring’s young hours,
And beauty’s fair character.”

The history of the Rose can be traced as far back, as’
two thousand years. Pliny, in his time, enumerated eve-
ral varieties; the one most cultivated then was the Cabbage
Rose, the one so common with us, which, notwithstanding
it is so old a favorite, still retains its merited standing in the
florist’s garden.

The Rose has been more extensively cultivated in
Egypt, and along the Ganges, in India, than with us;
this probably may arise from the florist’s occupation being
more divided here in the vast number of different plants in
cultivation. “The Persians have been more attentive to
its culture than any other people, that is, to a particular
kind; and we are indebted to that country for the cele-
brated Otto of Roses, an essential oil extracted from that
flower, which is imported into this and other countries as
a perfume. The smallness of the quantity extracted makes
it dear, and it may be known, when genuine, by its being

in a congealed state, apparently as if frozen ; the warmth of
the hand will restore it to a liquid state. A celebrated
traveller that has visited the Palaces in Persia, describes ~
the places like fairy land; every piece of ground is studded
with these heavenly flowers, containing the most exquisite
perfume known, which is inhaled with every breath you
draw, while the eye is captivated witlt their innumerable
double flowers, surpassing all imagination; ueither is this
resplendent show confined to the gardens, but their rooms

930. A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

are decorated with them, as if their presence was essential
to their existence : — :

“Where the soft Persian maid the breath inhales,
Of love-sick Roses, wooed by nightingales.”

The Rose was originally dedicated to Aurora, being the .
emblem of youth, and to Venus as the emblem of beauty
and love; to Cupid, that harbinger of danger to the female
heart, from whom it was given to Harpocrates, the god of
silence. The Heathen Mythology is thus partly made up
by this delightful and prolific flower, the theme of whose
beauty has been sung by our most celebrated poets, afford-
ing so much subject for their versatile pens, operating on
their minds as the dew drops afford nourishment to the
exhausted plant, after the influence of the exuberant sun.

The varieties of color in the Rose are innumerable, as
well as difference in habit. It is easily cultivated either by
seed, cuttings, layering, budding, and by suckers at the
root. Each kind has its peculiar system, and must be
treated accordingly. To propagate the hardy or garden
Rose from seed, the hip which contains the seed should
be kept dry, rubbed out, and sown in the spring. Some-
times the seed will require one year to germinate, unless
brought forward in a hot-house, which is not often in the
. possession of the amateur. It should be sown in a shady
situation, and be kept moist. The soil should be a leaf
mould and sand, equal parts. If the seed is sown in pans —
or boxes, it could be more conveniently removed into.dif-
ferent situations, if found necessary. ‘The seed should not
be planted over a quarter of an inch deep. As the seed-
lings grow and show about four leaves, pot them off, and

ee ee
é . ee \

ROSE. 231

nlace them in a pit, until the next spring ; then transplant
them into the open ground, and they will flower the third
year ; but forwarding with bottom heat, or hot-house, will
make many flower the first year, if not the common gar-
den variety. Unless you have taken the proper means
necessary to hybridize, the labor of raising from seed is
not worth the trouble.

Layering Roses is the most certain way of propagating
the same variety ; it should be done about the time Roses
are beginning to bloom ; in former times the fall was con-
sidered the best; experience has taught the reverse, and
layering was formerly done by merely pegging down the
branch ; this would take a long time to form root fibres.
The most approved plan is to peg down a branch, and turn
up the end in as upright a position as possible, and let it
remain several days to set; then make a slit by cutting
with a sharp knife, commencing at the joint, to the centre ;
thence up half way to the next joint, the same as you would
in layering the Carnation; be particular that the slit be
open when you re-peg the branch down, which can easily
be done with a piece of moss, or some of the soil; tie the
branch firmly to a stake, and cover the slit ae half an
inch i in the soil. Should the weather be favorable the
layers will be ready to take off in the fall; but prior to that
time you had better examine them, and, if not rooted, you .
must allow them to remain till next season. j

The Rose is also propagated by suckers. If allowed to
remain in one place any time you will find them abundant,
though some are more prone to make them than others.
These should be detached in November, and in two years.
they will make good flowering bushes.

932 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

Roses to be grown well, should not be allowed to remain
over three or four years in the same place, which is evident
by the suckers coming up some distance from the mother
plant. If not removed, you will soon find the old plant
sicken and die; the soil being deteriorated, the plant ceases
to exist for want of nourishment.

To obtain good flowers the plants should be removed
often, and every summer or fall the old ‘wood pruned out,
and mulch the roots with old manure before the winter
sets in, and in the spring turn it over, mixme@ it with the
soil, disturbing the roots as little as possible.

The Rose is also propagated by grafting the more choice
varieties on the root of the more common kind, which is
done in the following manner: — Take a piece of the root,
about four inches long, and cut a slit about one inch long,
down the center; then take the scion you wish to engraft,
cutting it the length required (three eyes), the bottom
part should be cut like a wedge, which must be inserted
into the slit of the root; be particular in fitting the bark of
each as exact as possible. It should be observed that both
should be as near one size as possible,—when done it
should be bound with bass firmly, so that neither can
separate from its position; then take grafting wax, and
cover the binding, to exclude the atmospheric air from the
wound. of the grafted part; when completed it may be
planted into the open ground. After the parts are united,
which can easily be discovered by the growth, slacken the
bandage, and to prevent accident, put a small stake 1 in the
ground to tie the young wood to, and it will require no fur-
ther trouble. Grafting is performed in the spring before
the sap begins to circulate.

oO

as | Taal eee ee

ROSE, 233

The Rose is also increased by budding. This process
is generally done with new varieties, and is frequently per-
formed on running Roses, for the sake of curiosity, enabling
a person to have different colored flowers on the same bush.
The best standard to bud on is the Boursalt, and the best

_time to bud is July and August, when the bark will part
freely. Itis performed the same as with fruit trees, which
mode is so well understood as to render it unnecessary to

describe. Shakspeare says:—

“You see, sweet maid! we marry
A gentle scion to the wildest stock;
And make conceive a bark of baser kind
By bud of nobler race; this is an art
Which does mend nature, —change it rather; but
The art itself is nature.”

The Scotch Rose has not been known much above
fifty years. It is hardy and very distinct, with delicate
limbs and foliage, profuse in flowering, and mostly double.
It was originally found on the mountains of Scotland,
from whence it was taken by Messrs. Dick and Brown,
in 1793, and was single. Their attention to its culture first
brought the flowers double. Seeding freely, this indispen-
sable variety has been greatly augmented, and is now to be

~ found-in most gardens. It is easily cultivated.

The Cabbage, or Provence Rose, is one of the oldest we
have in cultivation, and is a desirable as well as ornamen-
tal rose. Holland claims the parentage of this, but without
foundation, as it was a favorite of the Romans, and was
used in their triumphal marches. It was not known in
Europe above five hundred years ago. It is possible the

~ Dutch may have been the first to introduce it into Europe.
20 ;

ae

234 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

This variety can be traced back over two thousand years,
and is a native of the East.

The Moss Rose is supposed to be a mere variety of the
Provence, which Mr. Lee, of Hammersmith, endeavored to
prove; it is certainly problematical. In Italy it is said to
lose its mossy appearance, which some botanists suppose to
be enough to prove the assertion; but this is fallacious
reasoning. It only proves that the climate or soil is not
congenial to its culture. There are many flowers brought
to this country that lose their fragrance; for instance, the
Mignionette, which in England isdelightful, but degenerates
in this country; that is no argcment that it was originally
void of fragrance. Country, soil, and situation, will influence
most exotics, more or less. The first account we have of
the Moss Rose was in 1724. Its true history is unknown ;
therefore all conjecture on the subject is idle speculation.
The following little fictitious poetical explanation will
amuse some, if it does not give the true history. Itis a
translation from a German poet:

The Angel of the flowers, one day,

Beneath a Rose-tree sleeping lay,

That spirit, to whose charge is given,

To bathe young buds in dews from heaven:

Awaking from his light repose,

The Angel whispered to the Rose;

O, fondest object of my care,

Still fairest found where all are fair,

For the sweet shade thou ’st given to me.

Ask what thou wilt, ’tis granted thee.” . tf
6‘ Then,” said the Rose, with deepened glow,
**On me another grace bestow.” .

The spirit paused in silent thought,

What grace was there that flower had not?

.

ROSE. 235

"T was but a moment; o’er the Rose

A veil of moss the spirit throws,

And robed in Nature’s simplest weed,
Could there a flower that Rose exceed?

The Moss varicty of Rose is splendid; the calyx and
peduncles are mossy, giving the rose a rich, novel, and
beautiful appearance, distinct and interesting, requisites to
be found only in this class of beauties. It is more difficult
to root than other Roses, and it will generally take two years
to propagate from layers; it is therefore much easier pro-
pagated by budding. ‘The common Moss is the best va-
riety, and, like the Scotch Rose, should not be pruned much,
neither is it necessary to move it often.

The Rose known as the: French Hundred-leaf, was

known to Pliny, as one of the greatest beauties of the Rose

family; but it is destitute of fragrance. It is a distinct va-
tiety from the Provence; the flower stalk is upright and
stiff, destitute of thorns, and is found on the mountains of
Switzerland, and other places. |

The Burgundy and Damask possess a similitude, and
are frequently confounded with each other, to those that
are not good judges. It is commonly called in England
Monthly, but generally, in favorable soil and situations, it
will flower four times in the year; on this account, the
French call it “ Rose de Quarte Saison.” This division of
Roses is much improved of late, and is becoming a great
favorite. " |

Hybrid Roses of different classes are becoming very nu-
merous and fashionable, and by some are now considered
the finest in cultivation; in ten years they will be thought
nothing of.

236 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

Of the hybrid China there is a great variety, and we
owe their origin to the China, Tea-scented, Noisette, Bour-
bon, and the French Provence, being crossed with. the
garden Rose, by which means we are furnished with a
splendid variety of elegant flowers, both in form and color,
of vigorous growth, and extremely luxuriant foliage.
Although these hybrids flower but once in the season,
they continue so for along time. Many run to a great
height, and are perfectly hardy; these will generally grow
from cuttings taken off in June. This class of Roses re-
quires but little pruning, unless it is cuttimg out the old
wood in November. |

The Noisette is another desirable variety ; the origin of
this class was raised from seed of the Musk, fertilized with
the China, and the world is indebted to this country for
this desirable variety. Most of this class are running
Roses, bearing their beautiful flowers in clusters, from June
until checked by frost in the fall. 'This variety will stand
out with a slight protection, and is increased by cuttings
and layering.

The Tea-scented Chin Rose is another beautiful varie-
ty, much esteemed for its delicacy of color, and the ex-
quisite odor of its flowers. Itis generally grown in pots
for parlor culture; it is equally suitable for the open
ground, and will survive the severity of the winter with
slight protection, which should be removed in Mareh,
after the cold weather is over. By this treatment the
bushes are more thrifty, and it will bloom more abundant-
ly. -If the winter be very severe, the bush may freeze, and
the wood die level with the ground, which is of no con-

+5

ROSE, 237

sequence, as the bush will put with more vigor in the
spring:

The Bengal, Bourbon, and China Evérblooming, or
Daily, require the same treatment to develope their beau-
ties to perfection ; all will grow readily from cuttings, and
the best month to propagate them is June. I refer the
reader to the article on cuttings.

I think, as a general class of Roses for the garden, the
Bourbon will be found decidedly the best, blooming all the
summer, and varying in quality and color. Its foliage is
bright and finely shaped, perfectly hardy, and of free
growth. It makes the most splendid Tree Rose known.
This variety will outlive that class of Roses now coming
into fashion, called Remontant, or Hybrid Perpetuals.

In regard to soil for Roses, it will be found that situa-
tion and climate will make a difference in their growth:
experience is the best criterion. Generally, the Rose w ill

grow best in a rich loamy soil. To tell the amateur to.

take a certain portion of this soil, and a certain portion of
another, and so on, only serves to distract the mind of the
young beginner, mystifying their culture when there is
no mystery about it. ‘The best plan is to encourage the
culture of plants; experience is the best teacher on this
head, and of more service than all that. could be written
‘by the most experienced gardeners. I find that class of
men will differ in their management of plants. All pot
plants require a richer soil than the same kind in the open
ground. ‘This arises from the quantity of water pot plants
require, as-water washes the substance of the soil from the
roots, which is not the case when in the open ground.
The Tree Rose has become quite fashionable, and is

238 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

within the pale of any person. It only requires the trouble
of selecting a Boursalt Rose, that has a straight shoot;
then bud one or more varieties into it, of any height desi-
rable, in the beginning of August. ‘To accomplish this
object, 1t should be performed towards evening or on a
damp day; and if you find the bark does not part freely,
by want of sufficiency of juice, it should be delayed a few
days longer, or the bud will perish. A little judgment is
required in selecting the bud most suited for the purpose ;
but to enable the amateur to tell without difficulty, he
should observe that when the bud at the end of the shoot
is formed, it is then at maturity, and should be used with-
-out delay. Roses, properly speaking, should not be bud-

ded before August, unless it be the China Rose; then the

spring will be the best. As soon after budding as you
discover the bud has taken, loosen the bandage and trim off
the top of the stalk to within two shoots of the bud, until
the spring; and when the bud begins to put, trim off the
balance of the newly formed shoot. Flowers produced
from the bud will be more brilliant than those formed on
the original tree. In dry weather, the stock of budded
plants will be much improved the first year, if watered.
In preparing your buds the old practice of removing the
wood from the bud is indispensable to your success.
Spring budding, with the tender Roses, is not important.
After the bud is inserted, if bass matting is not handy,
tape can be substituted. The time required for buds to be
established is about six weeks.

The pruning of Tree Roses is practised at different
periods by gardeners. Spring will be found the best time;
and leaving but two eyes to each branch, will make them

= ee

ROSE, 239

more vigorous, and bloom more freely. Many experi-
ments have been tried in budding the Rose on different
shrubs, which will take ; but the constitution of the varie-
ties is so conflicting with nature, the experiments have
failed to be of any benefit. ‘Those, therefore, who wish to
change the color by this means, may consider such a plan
abortive. When tender Roses are budded on hardy stocks,
the wood must be sufficiently protected to withstand the
winter; but if the amateur has a pit or cellar, it is best to
pot them off in November, place them in safety, and re-
plant them in the spring. The particular mode of bud-
ding will be found in another part of this work; and the
variety for use will depend on the fancy of the operator. —

ROSE BAY:

(RHODODENDRON. )

This is a well known evergreen shrub, combining some
of the most beautiful varieties of plants in cultivation.
It grows from one to twenty feet high, branching, with
oblong, obtuse, and thick leaves, narrower near the foot-
stalk, and reflexed at the margin; veined, ragged, of a deep
color on the surface, ferruginous beneath, and surrounding
the branches upon long petioles. The flowers are various,
on long peduncles, and in terminal umbels. There is a
numerous family of the Rhododendrons in cultivation ; |
those natives of this country are perfectly hardy, and are

240 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

found growing in mountainous districts, flowering from
May to July. '

The Nepaul species will grow twenty feet high, and is
decidedly the best in cultivation, producing scarlet and
crimson flowers, truly gorgeous in appearance, and equal
to velvet in richness; and the flowers are abundantly
supplied with a liquid sweet as honey. ‘They may be
increased by layering, imarching, or budding, and by
seeds, as they are found to seed freely. They ought to
be highly appreciated on that account, by which means
many fine hybrids have been raised. To grow from
seeds, the soil should be one part sandy loam and two
parts leaf mould. In sowing, great care should be taken
not to cover the seeds with the soil, as they are very
minute; never water them except with a syringe, so as
to imitate dew as much as possible, and keep them cov-
ered with a purple colored bell glass). When the seed-
lings are to be transplanted, add a little more loam to
ihe composition, and the plants should be well supplied
with water while growing. After your seedlings are
potted off, treat them the same as the Camellia Japoni-
ca; the treatment of both being similar.

RAGGED ROBIN.

(LYCHNIS DIOCEA. )

This is a perennial flowering plant, anative of Eng-
land ; its name is taken from the ragged appearance of

RAGGED ROBIN, 241

oe

its beautiful double pink colored flower. It is inclined
to run, as the stem will grow from twelve to eighteen
inches. It is perfectly distinct from the Cuckoo Flower
(L. flosculi), which is often sold for it by gardeners. —
The treatment of one, however, is the same as the other;
it is easily propagated by division of the root. It does not
seed in this country; it should be shifted once or twice
in the year into a rich loam, and is better for being
protected through the winter. From May to June it is
covered. with blossoms of a rich pink color, and double,
It is a good border flower, being perfectly hardy, and at
the same time a fine plant for parlor culture.

~ _ -RANUNCULUS.

(RANUNCULUS ASIATICUS.)

“ Yet still shall there be joy,
‘When God hath poured forth beauty, and, in the voice
Of human love, shall still behold in praise
_ Over his glorious gifts! ©, Father! Lord, .
The all beneficent! I bless thy name
That theu hast mantled the green earth with flowers,
Liking our hearts to nature.” 3

The Ranunculus is a beautiful, half hardy, tuberous-
rooted perennial; a native of the Levant, generally covered
from May to June with magnificent flowers of various col-
ors. The leaves are ternate ; segments toothed or cut, tri-
fied ; the stem upright and hcarehinigs flowers at the extreme.

21

242 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

This beautiful flower was introduced into Europe as far
back as 1569, and has always been cultivated as a florist‘s
flower. Its appearance and habit being similar to the
Butter Cup, found near marshy places ; it has passed under
the name of the “ Persian King Cup.” The form of the
flower resembling the Rose, the petals being shorter and
more compact; their colors ranging from white to black;
some edged, like the Picotee, and others striped like
the Carnation; others selfs of a richness and aes
unsurpassed.

Possessing such a divdhaty of colors, thé Ss
has a most beautiful and imposing aspect. The flower
stem is generally about fifteen inches high, with a flower
at the top, and laterals; and frequently one plant will be
embellished with from ten to sixteen blossoms;

‘‘ Emblems of modest grace,
Of unaffected dignity and ease,
Of pure and elegant simplicity.”

The root is formed of tubers, similar to the Dahlia, but
small, only about one inch in length. Some gardeners
profess to have as many as eighteen hundred varieties with
names. It is generally conceded that Josepu Tso and Son,
of Wallingford, Berkshire (authors of a treatise on crossing
this flower artificially), have the best collection in England.
Generally speaking, this flower has not succeeded in this
country, which, I think, must be attributed to want. of
attention, in not planting them in suitable soil, and in a
situation congenial to them im this climate. Mr. Waker,
of Dorchester, near Boston, an enterprising florist, I am
informed, cultivates them to perfection. . A collection. car.

ee ee

- RANUNCULUS. : 243

‘be purchased in England for about three dollars per hun-

dred ; a superior assortment would cost fifty; this would
ener some of the most select. Those generally brought
here and sold with Harlem bulbs, are worthless ; the tubers
‘appear fair to the eye, which is all that can ni said of
them. ~ ‘

The Ranunculus generally Sissies a short time after the
Tulip, if planted in February, as soon as the frost is out
of the ground and can be worked. There are single and
semi-double flowers, but the double are considered the
florist’s flower ; others are of no value. The florist’s flower
only wants to be seen to be appreciated.

Probably one of the most exciting pleasures would be to
taise those plants from seed procured from England. They.
should be sown in February, in pans or boxes, in a sandy
loam, collected from the commons after the turf is taken
off, with a portion of old manure, mixed at least six months
before being used. If planted in old earth with new ma-
nure they will rot. In the second season your plants will
flower, and in most cases will be single; this circumstance
should not discourage you; still persevere, and. the next
season you will find them more double, and. some of the
best will send up a pericarp, and in most instances without
anthers. This will be a good time to impregnate; take a
camel’s hair pencil, and collect the pollen from the anthers
of semi-double flowers, and: apply it to the pericarp of those
possessing good proportions, and nearly double; by fertil-
izing the seed vessel, you will be enabled to get superior
seeds, which will give you some advantage over thege you
can purchase. sq IF =.

In planting tubers, great care is necessary to place them

244 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

erect; for if planted sidewise it will undoubtedly throw
the flower stem in the same direction. The Dahlia, if
planted upside down, will naturally find its way up, but
not so with the Ranunculus. To this circumstance may
be attributed so many failures by persons not acquainted
with this fact. The proper time to divide the tubers is
when you take them up, after the flower-stem has died
down, as the tubers then are not so brittle as when dry.
When the tubers appear dry, pack them in sand, to remain
until the time of planting again.

In England, where the summers are frediitianag with
gentle showers, these flowers can be produced at any time
through the year, by planting accordingly; which, no
doubt, with proper attention, could be effected in this coun-
try. The soil best suited to the culture of the Ranunculus
would be a fresh maiden soil with a small portion of cow
manure four years old, well incorporated with it. The
tubers must be planted about two inches deep, and in dry
weather should be watered between the roots; and when
in flower, they should be screened from the sun, to prte-
serve the purity of their colors.

SCHIZANTHUS.

(RETUSUS. )

This beautiful annual is a native of the mountains of
South America, and was introduced into Europe in 1831.

Oe ee

SCHIZANTHUS. 4 Q45

It is of easy culture, and is fast gaining its way into pub-
lic favor. . The footstalk of the plant is erect; tubes of
the corolla longer than the calyx; lips variously cut, mid-
dle one, narrow shaped ; the upper, square and abrupt; the
seed simple, shell-like, possessing a wrinkled integument ;
albumen fleshy. ‘There are a number of varieties of the
Schizanthus ; their flowers are rather fanciful and novel in
appearance. |

All of this family grow ‘Sngadly in a nore loam; the
treatment of one suits the whole; and the plant is cal to
do best if the seed be sown in August. When the seed-
lings have formed two leaves they Should be potted off into
thumb pots, and when the pots are filled with roots, they
should be shifted into one of three inches. Great care
must be observed against injuring the root fibres, as they
are tender, and cause the leaves to droop. When you dis-
cover your plants in this condition, you must not give
them water, even if their appearance should lead you to
suppose that to be necessary. It should be kept from the
frost, and in May repotted into one of five inches, if in-
tended to flower in the house; or it may be placed in the
open ground. To secure a second crop of this delightful
flower, sow more seed in the spring. Such is the nature
of its disposition to flower, that, if well grown, it will be
studded with from five to eight hundred flowers at a time,
and it will continue to flower about five months ; this
makes it a desirable plant for-the parlor or flower garden.
The Schizanthus does not like a moist situation, neither
should it be planted where the wind will affect it, or
it will be destroyed. The soil should be a sandy loam.

-

246 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

STAR OF BETHLEHEM.

(ORNITHOGALUM. )

Of this variety of bulbous rooted plants there are over
‘one hundred, and nearly the whole tribe is worthless. The
one best known throws up a scape about four inches high,
having a number of white star-like flowers, which appear
in the spring. The leaves are similar to the Crocus, with
a white stripe up the == It is generally planted along
the edge of the borders “of the beds, where it shows to the
best advantage. There are one or two suitable for the
green-house, but we seldom see them there, their places
being filled with more desirable plants.

There are Frenchmen periodically traveling this coun-
try, selling plants, and shrubs, and bulbous roots; the bulbs
generally are healthy looking, and well calculated to de-
ceive. The larger kinds are sold for the Josephane (an
Amaryllis Lily), and it generally turns out to be an infe-
rior kind of the Ornithogalum; those of a smaller kind
are sold for the Belladonna. It would be well for persons
to be on their guard and purchase no plants or bulbs ex-
cept of regular established garderfers or seedsmen, who
pride themselves on a reputation ; and in case of any mis-
take, you have always some resource for a correction,
This is not the case with the warranty of a stranger, who
generally sends another as honest as himself the following
year, with another set of flaming pictures of nondescript
plants, with colors contrary to the nature of flowers, in
plants which they pretend to represent.

SCARLET VALERIAN, Q47

*

SCARLET VALERIAN.

(VALERIANA RUBRA.)

This is a fine herbaceous perennial, growing about
twenty inches high, smooth and glaucous, branching in
leafy stems. The leaves are opposite, some entire, others
toothed, sessile. The flowers are numerous, growing in
unilateral spikes of dark pink color, scentless, flowering
from June until the early frost sets in. This pretty flower
is found growing in great perfection on old walls in Eng-
land, but will not stand the winter of this country ; it
should therefore be potted in the fall, and brought into the
house. :

This plant was originally found growing on rocks on
the Alpine mountains, in great abundance. It is quite
rustic in appearance, and requires no recommendation from
the florist. Its intrinsic worth, either as a border flower or
for its medicinal properties, will speak its own praise. -It
does well in a loamy soil, and is quite accommodating in
its nature as to situation, é&c. It is propagated by seed
sown in the spring, and by cuttings taken also in the
spring, or by dividing the root, so that each piece contain
root fibres. ‘There are several varieties of the Valerian ;
the Scarlet is the most desirable for the garden, and the
others for their medicinal properties.

248 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

SNOW DROP.
(GALANTHUS NIVALIS.)

* Lone flower, hemmed in with snows, and white as they,
But hardier far, once more I see thee bend
Thy forehead, as if fearful to offend,
Like an unbidden guest.”

This bulbous rooted flowering plant is indigenous to
England, where it is a great favorite. It is one of the
earliest flowers to open in the spring, reminding us of the
approach of Flora and her tribe of beauties, even when
the snow is on the ground. It is of easy culture, and
should be planted in the fall, at the same time as other
bulbs. It has a delicate stem, rising a few inches, bearing
a white flower a little tinged with green at the extreme

x 2

end, which hangs pendent; the leaves are smooth, of a

light green. ‘To make it appear to the best advantage it
should be planted with the Purple Crocus, by making a
ring five imches in diameter, and planting the Crocus on
the outside, and the Snow Drop in the centre. It does well
planted in a pot and kept in the house. This bulb should
be kept like the Crocus through the summer in sand, or
they will dry up. The damp atmosphere of England is
more congenial for these bulbs than this country, as I have
generally found them to disappear about the second or third
year ; from which it must be inferred this climate does not
suit them. ‘This lessens their value as a bulb for general
culture. ,

SWEET WILLIAM. - Q49,

SWEET WILLIAM.
(piawrats BARBATUS.)

“ Sweet William small has form and aspect bright,
Like that sweet flower that yields great Jove delight.”

This is a delightful ornamental evergreen, flowering
profusely from May to July, and bearing all the colors so
susceptible of imparting delight, both sigle and double.
The flowers are aggregate, facicled; scales ovate, subulate;
with a long stem, on the top of which is formed a corymb
of gorgeous flowers, well adapted for bouquets made in the
French style. The leaves are lanceolate, forming alto-
gether one of the best border flowers in cultivation.

This perennial isa native of Germany, and has been
many hundred years in cultivation. It is propagated by
seeds, cuttings, and by dividing the roots in the fall. It
thrives best in good rich soil, and is perfectly hardy. The
double variety is best for being protected through the win-
ter. To propagate by seeds it will be necessary to sow
them in April. It is often the case that this plant will
drop its seeds, which come up and flower the following
spring. Should the winter prove severe the young planis
will probably perish for want of strength; therefore, by
early sowing, the plants become strong, and the cold will
have no effect on them. Sow in April, and transplant,
when your seedlings are about two inches high, to where
they are intended to flower. When you discover a flower
of superior merit, you can either propagate by cuttings or

250 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

by dividing the root in September. Plant them out to
gain strength before the winter sets in. You will find in
a bed of seedlings some double; these you should pre-
serve, by dividing the roots, and giving them protection
through the winter.

This flower will easily cross with the China Pink, and
the plants raised will partake of the qualities of both,
making a beautiful flowering plant for the border for two
years. Although it is easily propagated, and has become
common, it still retains a place in all gardens, however
small, such is the estimation this flower is held. Differen:
gardens appear to have them of different colors. Such
novelty makes them desirable, and they are not likely to
be supplanted i any other

ST. JOHN’S WORT.

(HYPERICUM KALMIANUM.)

This ornamental shrub is not cultivated so much as it’

should be, considering its showy appearance when in
flower, which is during the months of June and July. It
is then literally covered with bright yellow flowers, of an
imposing aspect. It is evergreen, and will grow readily
from cuttings in a sandy loam; it requires plenty of water
during the flowering season, and is easily kept through the
winter ina pit or cellar, watered sparingly.

Bini.

SUNFLOWER, | 251

SUNFLOWER.

(HELIANTHUS MULTIFLORUS.)

This is a deciduous herbaceous plant, a native of this
country, as well as of South America ; perennial in duration,
and quite ornamental in appearance, bearing yellow double
flowers from July to October, growing about five feet high.
The leaves are three nerved, scabious, the lower cordate, upper
ovate, bearing numerous flowers at the ends of the shoots.
In its pristine state the flowers are single; cultivation has
made them double. It should be divided at the root, either
in the spring or fall; the latter is preferable, and should be
planted into a different place in the garden, for if allowed
to reinain in one place, and not divided, it will return to
its primitive state, which would detract that beauty so
desirable.

The Helianthus is certainly a showy flower, not much
unlike or inferior to the yellow Dahlia, to. which, at a dis-
tance, it bears some resemblance. The sun has some
influence on the flowers, as they will be found to turn with
it; the flower at twelve o’clock mid-day will face the south. |

There is an annual variety, both single and double, with
noble flowers, very large, and more suitable for the culture
of the oil, with which the seeds abound. ‘The seeds aro
useful for various purposes, and if raised on a large scale
could be used to advantage even for the use of cattle or
poultry.

The H. multiflorus is decidedly the best variety for the

flower garden, and will grow in any soil. When raised to

252 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

perfection it is seldom found to seed, which is of no conse-
quence, as it increases fast at the roots.

SNAP DRAGON.
(ANTIRERHINUM.) |

This plant is an ornamental perennial evergreen; flow-
ers of various colors, some are magnificent. The leaves.
are lanceolate; the flowers spiked; seed pods in the shape
of a calf’s snout, from which circumstance it often goes by
that name. ‘The segment of the calyx obtuse. It is a
native of England; and flowers from June to August, gen-
erally the first season if the seed be sown early, and it
sports much in colors; when you discover a seedling of.
extraordinary beauty take cuttings in September, and pro-
tect them through the winter ; they will make good flower-
ing plants for the border, in the spring; by this plan you
can secure one of the best border flowers we have. Al-
though this plant is considered hardy, it is very apt to be
cut off in severe weather. It will flower better and earlier
if protected, and will accommodate itself to almost any kind
of soil.

SCARLET LYCHNIS. 253

SCARLET LYCHNIS.

(LYCHNIS CHALCEDONICA.)

This is a splendid hardy perennial, growing ‘about two
feet high, with a bunch of beautiful flowers, corymb form,
of a beautiful dazzling scarlet in June and July ; the leaves
are lanceolate, and cordate. It is easily raised from seed,
is perfectly hardy, and can also be easily increased by di-
viding the roots. It is a native of Russia, and was imported
into England several hundred years ago. It is found to
grow in any garden soil. The double is very desirable,
the flowers on the top form a ball, which gives it quite a
unique appearance. It is increased by dividing the root in-
the fall, or by cuttings of the flower stem, taken the same
as the Scarlet Lobelia. It should never be left out in the
winter, as it does not flower so well. There are several
varieties of the Lychnis; most are confined to the green-
house, being rather tender. |

SWEET PEA.
(LATHYRUS oporata.)

There is a great variety of the Sweet Pea; some are ex-
tremely pretty annuals, natives of different countries, flow-
ering in June and July. It will flower stronger and the

254 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

colors be more brilliant, if the seed be sown in the fall, and
the seedlings kept through the winter in thumb pots; or
they may be sown in the open ground, and some litter
thrown over them as a protection. Some of the perennial
varieties are well calculated for the arbor, growing from
eight to ten feet high, bearing beautiful Rose colored flow-
ers from July to September. They need no protection
through the winter, as they die down to the ground in the
fall, and put forth in the spring. ‘The perennial varieties
are cultivated to some extent in Europe, as we generally
find them with the Honeysuckle, entering the lattice work
of the cottages, giving a most lively appearance to those
dwellings throughout the summer. The flowers impart
beauty, taste, and usefulness at the same time.

SIDESADDLE, OR PITCHER PLANT

(SARACENIA PURPUREA.)

Of this singular tribe of plants there appear to be severa
varieties indigenous to this country, found in swamps 5
the north-western part of Indiana. The leaf is composca
of a hollow tube, which holds about a wine-glass of w...ter.
A leafy appendage is attached to the extremity of such
tube, which is said to cover the orifice in rainy weatner, to
exclude it; this is somewhat problematical, as I could never
see any difference in their appearance in rainy we..ther in
the appendage, or cover, so called. The tube contains

a ee

SIDESADDLE, OR PITCHER PLANT. | 255

water it is true, and flies are induced to enter their living
sepulchre (if it may be so termed). This singularity of the
leaf, whatever may be the design of nature, appears
strange; but it is generally supposed the pitcher shape leaf
is formed to supply the plant with water during the dry time
in the autumn. ‘The inner parts of those hollow cylinder
shaped leaves are lined with hair, which points downwards,
and there is but little doubt that flies which enter (gene-
rally the Blue Bottle race), when once in, are prevented from
crawling out by the formation of the inner side of the
tubes; and in all probability the water possesses some de-
leterious effects; thus destroying ihe insects when once
within the convex of the leaf.

- The singularities of this plant exhibit one of the phencm-
enas in nature so remarkable and interesting in floriculture.
In its cultivation it must be treated as a swamp plant. The
soil should be taken from a swamp and kept, in its grow-
ing season, in a pan of water, and the plant itself surround-
ed with moss. It may be increased by seed, or by division
of the root. If by seeds, they should be sown in the
spring and be kept moist. When the plants are of suffi-
cient size transplant into five inch pots, and treat them the
same as full grown plants; if by division of the roots it
should be performed i in the spring or fall. It will not thrive
in the sun ; the shade is indispensable to flower them to
perfection.

s

256 A.GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

TEN WEEK STOCK. ~~ 9§
(MATHIOLA ANNA.)

“6 Oh faint, indeed, are outward hues,
_ Compared with thy rich mental lizht;
Each day thy thoughts their rays diffuse,
Yet grow each added day more bright.”

This is a beautiful annual variety of flaca plants,
bearing flowers of different colors nearly: the whole season.
The stem is herbaceous, erect, and branching ; the leaves
lanceolate, blunt, and hoary; the seed pods long, without
glands. Plants generally flower in ten weeks after the seeds
are sown under favorable circumstances, and by sowing them
at different periods they may be brought to flower at almost
any season, in the green-house. It is sometimes called the
“ Gilliflower,’ and of this genera there are a number of
varieties; the best are the Brompton, Queen, Nosegay, and
many others of late introduction, some with Wall flower
leaf; the whole family will grow well in a sandy loam. —

The Stock is highly esteemed for its fragrance, easy
culture, and showy appearance in the flower garden, or : in
pots, with the exception of the annual variety; the others
will require protection through the winter, being biennial
in duration.

It is the opinion of some botanists that the seed vessel
which produces the double variety is diseased; this may
arise from local causes; consequently the flowers are de-
prived of the fructification necessary to propagate the spe-
cies. By examining the flowers frequently a single anther

TEN WEEK STOCK. 257

will be found, which is the only part possessing fecundat-
ing properties, which, like disease, generally affect those
‘near. The infectious parts operate on the single flowers
within their vicinity, contaminating the others and pro-
_ ducing diseased flowers, or, in other words, double flowers.
This nay be true logic, and not anilarstan dit botany suf
ficiently, L cannot contradict its doctrine. If seeds that
yroduce double flowers be diseased, it is surprising that so
many plants of a double nature are so vigorous in growth.

Ve know that people of a diseased nature have generally
a weak instead of a robust constitution, and that their pro-
geny are generally the same, and will soon cease to exist ;
thus we ‘often see a whole family cut off by concuue iii
‘TI should suppose, by analogy, that plants were subject to
the same fatality.

- I have noticed gardeners, who were in the habit of rats-
ing Stocks, tie the double and single flowering stems to-
cether ; this is termed by the florists, marrying them, ox
in other words, I suppose, to convey the disease to the sin-
gle, in case the Bee should not perform the operation so
desirable to the florist to obtain double flowers. It is also

assérted that the Bee will not go from flower to flower of
a different family. How that insect should possess so dis-
‘criminating a knowledge is strange. The works of “na-
ture’s God” appear wonderful, far beyond the understand-
ing of man. This knowledge cannot be imparted to the
Bee to prevent plants of a different genera from being
crossed ; for we know that flowers within the proximation
of each other will hybridize without the Bee. Plants of a
different genera havebeen crossed by the skilful hand of

the florist, but with more difficulty than others; and unless
22

258 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

the different plants ripen seeds in this country I admit
its futility, and when such plants are crossed, they are of
short duration, because, being opposite to the laws of na-
ture, or, as botanists may term it, being of diseased consti-
tution, it brings on a natural decay, and thus ceases to exist.
There is much to learn on this subject; and it is to be re-
gretted that every florist is not a botanist, as many errors
in regard to plants could be.easily corrected. It is evident
that the seed pod of the Stock producing the double flowers
is diseased, as may be discovered in their malformation, by
being a little drawn out of shape; but whether the seed be
also diseased, is a question of mere speculation.

If the seed of the Balsams are improved by keeping
several years, would not the Stock also improve by the
same treatment? Many statements made by. botanists
years ago are now considered nugatory. The unders‘and-
ing is enlarged by education; and, once enlightened, it
is the nature of mankind to be delving into the merits,
causes, and effects of things. So it is with the florist mm
his researches, as well as the botanist. Cultivation has
done much in the improvement of flowers—-the monstro-
sity of the vegetable kingdom appears strange in the ano-
maly of nature, but double flowers are so apparent as to
create no doubt; but the mystery of producing, or rather
the cause, is not so fully explained as may appear at first
sight; still the age of seed may in some degree have a
tendency to weaken the germinating properties of the
seeds, and cause. them to produce stamens instead of pe-
tals. In this way the seed may be diseased, and yet pro-
duce strong plants.

TUBEROSE. 259

TUBEROSE.

Sone bacie TUBEROSA. )

This well ibid bulbous rooted plant is a native of the
East Indies. It has been in cultivation ever since 1629,
and is generally admired for its grateful fragrance. The
climate of this country is well adapted for its culture, while
that of Europe, being-too cool and damp, does not do well
the second season, even if cultivated in the green-house, which
makes England dependent on this country and Italy for
its yearly supply. The bulbs increase fast, enabling the
florist to raise great quantities; and it has become a great
article of exportation every season. The flower has nothing
very prepossessing in its appearance, which is a double
white; but the fragrance emitted is certainly delightful,
and desirable for the garden or parlor. Its culture is easy,
either in the pot or the flower garden. [f cultivated in a pot
one of five inches i is the best size; plant them two inches deep;
the soil should be a sandy loam, and if intended to flower
early can be forwarded with Botton heat in March. As
the flower stem advances it should be supported with a
stick. When planted into the open ground the last of
April is the best time, as the plant is tender and liable to
be destroyed by the spring frost. The leaves of this plant
are linear, slightly channelled, about twelve to fifteen inches
long, of a pea-green color; the stem is from three to four
feet high; flowers double, and spiked, not more than two
or three are expanded at a time; generally odoriferous;

ather dingy in color. |

260 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.,

In planting the bulbs it will be necessary to divest them
of all offsets, otherwise the plant will not flower, for the
offsets derive too much nourishment from the main bulb,
and prove injurious. The offsets should be planted ina
bed by themselves, and in the third season they will flower.
When the frost destroys the foliage in the fall take them
up, and place them in a room to dry, previous to packing
them away for the winter ; or the bulbs can be packed in
dry sand, and then are not so likely to be injured by frost.

This plant is well calculated for the parlor, as it will
bear much confinement in a room, and is not injured if
kept from the window while flowering, and when done it
may be turned out of the pot, without disturbing the ball,
intothe open ground, which will save much trouble. When
this bulb is planted in a moderate sized garden, after the
rays of the sun have declined, it will be filled with fra-
grance, refreshing the mind, in the cool of the evening,
after the avocation of the day is spent.

TEA.

(THEA CHINENSIS.)

This is an evergreen shrub, a native of China and
Japan, cultivated to a greater extent in China than the
latter place. It being so near related to the Camellia
Japonica, the treatment of one is also applicable to the

other. In the green-house this plant seldom exceeds. six.
ea

TEA. 261

feet in height. The branches are alternate and numerous,
furnished with elliptical, oblong, lanceolated pointed leaves,
and serrated, with the exception of the base; smooth on
both sides, shining, marked with a rib, and veined, sup-
ported alternately on short foot stalks, two or three inches
long, and about one ‘wide. The flowers are sometimes
solitary, and in clusters of three occasionally, at the axiles
of the leaves, bearing a flower similar to the Myrtle, con-
sisting of a short green calyx with five lobes, the corolla
four or five, large snow white petals; stamens numerous,
with yellow anthers connected at the base, and a pistil with
a three parted style. Fruit and capsule three celled.
How many varieties of the Tea plant exist is uncertain.

The article imported as a beverage is picked from the
same plant at different seasons, and the different modes of
curing the leaves make. their difference in the import-
ance and worth, rather than in being the proceeds of dif-
ferent varieties of plants. As an evergreen plant, the Tea
is certainly ornamental, and, like the Camellia, will bear
considerable frost. There is no doubt if this plant sported
in colors, like its prototype, the Camellia, it would be
equally as much propagated ; still it is deserving the foster-
ing care of lovers of ornamental shrubs. It is easily pro-
pagated by seed sown in the spring in a rich sandy loam.
When the seeds are up and two or more leaves appear,
they should be potted off carefully into the smallest size
pots, and when re-established, should be treated the same
as if full grown; the third season the seedlings will, under
;roper treatment, flower and bear fruit.

262 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

TIGER FLOWER.

(TIGRIDIA CONCHIFLORA.)

“This, nor gems, nor stores of gold,
Nor purple state, nor culture, can bestow;
But God alone when first his active hand
Imprints the secret bias of the soul,
He, mighty Parent! wise and just in all,
Free as the vital breeze or light of heaven,
Reveals the charms of nature.”’

This plant is a native of Mexico, belonging to Mona-
delphia Triandria of the natural order Iridea, and is
much esteemed for the beauty displayed in its smgular form
and color, which is a splendid yellow, cup shape, the
centre tinged and spotted with bright crimson, so diversi-
fied as to give a unique appearance ; it is composed of six
petals; the cup itself is about two inches across; the outer
petals are reflexed, and would measure about four inches
across; the stem is over two feet in height, and, like most
Mexican plants, it is rather tender; im a dormant state it
must be packed in sand (dry, of course), and placed where
the frost will not injure the bulbs.

To flower this plant well will require a rich sandy
loam ; it will not succeed in a clay soil which is too stiff,
unless made rich with manure and a portion of sand to
render it of such consistence as to admit the root fibres to
pass through with facility. Many persons are curious in
raising bulbous roots from seed, for the sake of new varie-
ties ; but with regard to this genera, I should say it is ‘not

‘TIGER FLOWER: 263

worth while, as it would take several years to bring them
to bloom.

Tigridia conchiflora is a species of the Iris, but not like
them in. many particulars, for the Iris will sport in colors,
this plant will not; consequently as no new varieties
could be obtained, it would be futile to raise from sed
more particularly as the bulbs increase fast at the root, and
the offsets in most cases will flower the first or second
year. As this plant will not cross with the Iris, there ap-
pears to be a difference in their nature and habit. There
are two other species of Tigridia, but 7: conchiflora is
decidedly the greatest favorite with florists. To have early
flowers it will be necessary to plant the bulbs in pots the
beginning of March, and place them in a gentle heat, or
in a frame under glass, to guard against frost, and be care-
ful in watering them, or you will cause them to rot.—_
Towards the last of April you can plant them into the |
open ground about two inches deep.

These plants make a very pretty appearance when in a
bed of several dozen.* The flowers last but one day, and
nature in a measure has amply compensated for so short a
life, as the plants continue to throw up flowers ; and when
in a bed, from the circumstance of their flowering for six
or eight weeks, the excitement created for so long a time
is truly pleasing, by their gaudy appearance, making them
very cesirable even ina small garden. From the easy
culture of this plant any person with the least judgment
can manage them. [I presume the bulbs could be ob-
tained of any gardener near principal cities, or at the seed
stores, at a fair price. On the appearance of cold weather,
if the frost be intense, which sometimes is the case, throw

264 - A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

matts over the bed, or you may lose them; the next day
you had better take them up, dry and pack them in sand;
be careful that your bulbs be sufficiently dry, or they will
mould and rot.

TULIP.

(TULIP GESERIANA.)

“ Then comes the Tulip race, whose beauty plays
Her idle freaks, from family diffused
To family, as flies the father dust,
The varied colors run; and while they break
On the charmed eye, the exulting florist marks
With secret pride, the wonders of his hand.”’

This is one of those ornamental bulbous rooted plants
that has created so much excitement in the floral world,
flowering in April and May. Stem generally one flowered
and smooth; corolla at the extreme ; petals acute, bearded
at the end; leaves lanceolate. This beautiful and grace-
ful flowering bulb is a native of the Levant, and is also
common along the banks of the Bosphorus and different
parts of Syria. It was first taken from ‘its native country
over two hundred and sixty years ago, and has created
much excitement among florists up to the present epoch.
When first discovered their colors were crimson and yel-

low ; the florist, by care and good management, has made ai ae

Sassi produce all the gorgeous colors ‘maginasie and so. ;

¥

Sains eR

? 4
pe Te 5

TULIP, 266

larmoniously blended as to impart gaiety and splendor not
to be found in any other flower in cultivation. Such is the
infatuation produced by the Tulip, that when a person once
begins to be acquainted with them, they absorb the whole
mind, as if by magic, from the pursuit of other flowers;
indeed the mania was so great for them, in 1637, that a
collection of 120 bulbs sold at auction for over forty-two
thousand dollars; one variety with offsets out of that list
sold for near twenty-five hundred dollars. The following
is extracted from the Encyclopedia Americana, which
gives an account, almost incredible, of their estimation in
former times: —-“ In 1636 and 1637, areal Tulip mania
prevailed in Holland. Bulbs, which the seller did not
possess, were sold at enormous prices on condition that
they should be delivered to the purchaser at a given time;
13,000 florins were paid for a single Semper-Augustus; for
three of them together, 30,000 florins; for 148 grains weight,
4500 florins; for 296 grains of Admiral Liefkenshock,
more than 4000 florins; for Admiral Enkhuigen, more
than 5000 florins ; and for a Viceroy, on one occasion, was
paid 4 tons of wheat, 8 tons of rye, 4 fat oxen, 8 pigs, 12
sheep, 2 hhds. of wine, 4 barrels of beer, 2 barrels of but-
ter, 1000 pounds of cheese, a bundle of clothes, and a
silver pitcher. At an auction, in Alimaer, some bulbs
were sold for more than 90,000 florins. An individual, in
Amsterdam; gained more than 68,000 florins by the trade
in four months. In one city in Holland, it is said, more
than 10,000,000 Tulip bulbs were sold, but on account of
the purchasers refusing to pay the sums agreed upon, the
States General, April 27th, 1637, ordered that such sums
should be exacted like other debts in the common way;
23

266 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

the extravagant prices fell at once, and a Semper-Augustus
could be had for 50 florins ; yet the profits of raising rare
bulbs were considerable ; and, even at present, we find 25
to 150 florins the price of a single rare Tulip in the cata-
Iegues of the Harlem florists. Until the time of the
French Revolution, the florists of Harlem obtained their
bulbs principally from Lisle, and other towns in Flanders,
where the clergy were engaged in raising them.”

The mania was not confined to Holland altogether, for
the English found the business so profitable as not to per-
mit the Dutch to engross the whole; the English florists,
by crossing and re-crossing their flowers, were enabled to
eclipse their neighbors with their beauty and magnificence,
thus causing a decline in price in new varieties.

The Tulip is still dear, that is, choice varieties ; a mode-
rate variety could not be purchased for less than three hun-
dred dollars, when twenty years back the same collection
would cost four times that amount. This is not to be won-
dered at, when we take into view the time and uncertainty
of raising good flowers. ‘Those cultivated in this country,
generally, are no criterion to judge of the merit of the fine
kinds; those brought from Holland being nothing but the
rubbish of that market, the good kinds being prized too
much in Europe to find a ready sale here. In 1629 there
does not appear to have been over 140 with names; in
1792 the number had increased to 665 ; and in 1820 I saw
a catalogue, published by one Mason, containing 900.
There is one called Fanny Kemble, raised from seed since
that publication, that has been sold at an administrator’s
sale for about $500 ; there being but one offset propagated
at that time, it will be many years before that variety will

"TULIP, 267

be down to five dollars; consequently it will not soon find
its way into this country.

The Dutch were the first to classify their bulbs, which
was done in the following order: Primo Bouquet, white
and brown stripes; Bouquet Bagnettes, not so tall as
the former, but the cups are as well formed, with white
ground and brown stripes; Incomparable Verports, the
cups cherry and rose, on a white ground; Byblemens,
nearly white ground, with stripes of various colors;
Bizarres, the ground yellow, with irregular stripes o
different colors. ‘The English florists class theirs im
four varieties, something after the Dutch manner. All
the classifications are arbitrary and perplexing to the
amateur, and it would be superfluous to insert them. —
There is another circumstance attached to these flowers,
still more perplexing, and that is, the taste required to
judge of what is termed a good Tulip, being artificial,
requiring time and familiarity with them to acquire
what is termed a good judgment to speak of their merit
or demerit. When this circumstance is taken into view,
we need not wonder that a stranger is so much attract-
ed at first sight with the common red and yellow striped
varieties.

_ The Tulip is raised from seed, and increased by ofa ;
by seed new varieties are ne but the process is slow
and uncertain. To raise from war will take seven years
to bring them to flower, and probably as many more to
break their colors, and then you may not produce one as
good as that you saved the seed from. ‘To propagate by
offsets is the only way of increasing the same kind ; they
will multiply fast. Beds for Tulips should command an

268 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

airy situation ; the soil a sandy loam, four feet wide, and
in length according to the number of bulbs. In setting
out Tulips dibble them in five inches deep, planting seven
bulbs across the bed ; the distance the other way should be
nine inches apart, that is from row to row. In Europe
much pains is taken in preparing the beds, and placing
sand under and around the bulbs; there is no necessity for
anything of the kind in this country, as the soil generally
contains sand enough in it. Tulips should be planted
from October to December; asa general rule, it will be
found that the middle of November is preferable ; for after
the latter time, the weather is uncertain ; about Christmas
place a layer of old manure on the bed about half an inch
thick. This will protect them from heavy rain and frost ;
but it must not be removed before the beginning of March,
and not then unless the weather is mild. In the spring
keep your beds free of weeds, and if you find the ground
binding, loosen it, and your flowers will be benefited by
the operation. During the blooming season if protected
by an awning from the sun and rain, the flowers will last
much longer, and their colors be more brilliant. The
English florists generally plant what is termed a reserve
bed, the flowers of which are generally for bouquets, and
not held in great estimation, for the florist will never cut a
first rate Tulip, as the bulbs are then apt to canker the
next season and die. When Tulips are cut for exhibition
it is seldom the flower is cut more than one inch from the
cup, as then their liability to canker is not so great.

The Tulip does not require so rich a soil as the Hya-
cinth, as their colors will run, and may take a long time
to restore them. Six weeks after blooming the bulbs will

TULIP. 269

pe in a fit state to take up, which must be done on a clear
day, and the ground dry if possible. Place them in a room
to dry, where there is a free circulation of air, for three or
four weeks, then place each variety in a bag and mark
it, and place the bags in a box or drawer until the time of
planting. It is advisable to take bulbs up every season,
and separate the offsets, which should be planted by them-
selves, as many will not flower the first season; so that
. offsets may remain in the ground two years without re-
moving. ‘There are some double varieties of Tulips, well
ealculated for flowering in pots, and these should be placed
in pots in September, if wanted to flower early, and the
pots sunk in the ground; in December lift them, wash the
pots clean, and place them near the glass, the same as _
Hyacinths Neither the Double or Sweet Scented are con-
sidered - choice nin Hipagh there is novelty in their
Bac mra! 3

TASSEL FLOWER.

(CACALIA COCCINEA.)

This is a pretty and sraceful annual, of a bright scarlet
tassel-like flower, growing about eighteen inches high. It
flowers from June to August, and is a native of New Hol-
land. It will grow in any common garden soil. The
seeds should be sown early in the spring, and be trans-

970 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

planted into the borders in May, where its delicacy will do
justice to that department.

VELVET COCKSCOMB.

(CELOSEA CRISTATA.)

This is one of our greatest ornamental border plants,
and is half hardy, flowering from June to September. If
wanted to flower early the seed should be sown in a hot-
bed, and be transplanted after the danger of frost is over.
It is a native of Asia, and to be grown well must have a
rich soil. The Visita if cut off before the frost touches
them, will retain their beauty nearly the whole winter.
There is a great variety of the Cockscomb, and of colors;
the whole family is ornamental.

VARIEGATED EUPHORBIA.

(EUPHORBIA VARIEGATA.)

An annual, very showy in a large garden, where it is
cultivated for the magnificent appearance of the leaf; which
is a beautiful green with a silver stripe or edge. Itis a
native of the Rocky Mountains, and when placed in a

VARIEGATED EUPHORBIA. 271

bouquet appears to great advantage. Although showy it
ought to be excluded from all gardens where children have
free access, for such is the deleterious effects of the leaf, if
allowed to come in contact with the lips, it will cause the
part to blister ; the irritation may lead to other, and proba-
bly worse, consequences. There is a variety of Euphorbia
mixed with some Cactuses, but easily distinguished, and the
whole tribe is worthless.

VERBENA.

(MELINDRE. )
fil

“6 Some clothe the soil that feeds them, far diffused,
And lonely, creeping, modest, and yet fair.”

_ This is decidedly one of the best exotics in cultivation.
lt was first imported as far back as 1640, but does not ap-
pear to have created any sensation among florists until
within the last thirty years, when many beautiful species
‘were introduced into Europe. The flowers are formed ag-
gregate ; the leaves jagged; stem branching. The Ver-'
bena will flower from March until November.

It is a native of Buenos Ayres, and is there called
Melindre, but Melindre officinalis is a native of England,
a plant possessing no merit. Those of late introduction
are new, and are becoming plentiful; possessing such re-
markable beauty, they will supplant many flowers now
considered’ indispensable. From the nature of the plant

~

272 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

there appears no difficulty in its cultivation, like the Petu-
nia; and it is equally or nearly as ornamental and desira-
ble, in the parlor, as in any well regulated garden ; indeed,
the latter is not complete without both, and both are suita-
ble for rock work. It is increased by seed, or by cuttings
taken any time between March and Septimaher

To raise them by seed they should be sown ina light
rich soil, in March, and be kept moderately moist. When
large doth, transplant into the open ground, which will
be some time in May. To increase by layers the best
way will be to sink a pot, filled with rich soil, near the
plant, and peg the joint in the centre, and, when rooted,
detach it from the parent; nothing more is required than
to treat it like other plants. The Verbena likes a
good drainage, and but little water in the winter. In
the spring, as the plants begin to grow, water them
moderately. You will find, in May, where your plants
grew in the open ground, that if you had different varieties
planted, many new varieties will come up, as the Verbena
will easily cross. A bed of Verbena, when well arranged
in regard to color, makes a delightful appearance beyond
conception.

WINGED AMMOBIUM.

(AMMOBIUM ALATUM.)

There is something pleasing in this annual, being rather
showy and singular in its appearance, flowering from June

WINGED AMMOBIUM. 273

to August, and throwing up a stem two feet high and
branching; the flowers solitary at the extreme. They bear
some resemblance to the Eternal Flower, yellow, with a
single whorl of white petals round the edge, reflexed,
The stem is concave, the corners or edge thin, hence arose.
the name, Winged. The leaf isa dingy yellow or light
green, clustered near the ground. It is half hardy, and will
grow in any common garden soil. It generally sows its
own seed, which comes up early in the spring, and can be
transplanted to where it is wanted to flower.

WHITE LILY.
(LiLrum CANDIDUM.)

~ Yet in that bulb, those sapless scales,
The lily wraps her silent vest,
Till vernal suns and vernal gales,
Shall kiss once more her fragrant breast.”

XK

This is a bulbous rooted perennial, a native of Syria and
Asia Minor, and was supposed to have been brought to
Europe by the Crusaders, sometime during the “ Holy
War.” Itis one of the oldest exotics in cultivation, pos-
sessing extraordinary beauty, embellishing the flower
garden with white flowers of the sweetest odor of all the
floral tribe. The leaves are lanceolate, scattered, and nar-
rowed at the base; the corolla companulate and smooth
inside; the stem. about five feet high, bearing from six to

Q74 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

twelve gorgeous flowers of virgin white, in May and June.
The bulb is composed of imbricated scales without odor,
and of a disagreeable flavor. It contains a small portion
of an acrid principle, and much mucilage, which is
greatly diminished by boiling. It has been used for the
dropsy. The odor of the flowers is imparted to oil or
bear's grease, and is used by perfumers; mixed with lard
it is used as a liniment, as a soothing application for ex-
ternal inflammation. It appears to have sprung up in the
heathen mythology, and was called Juno’s Rose. It was
known and cultivated in the Jewish nation.

‘¢ So mixed the Rose and Lily’s white,
That nature seemed uncertain quite,
To deck her cheek, what flower she chose,
The Lily white, or blushing Rose,

The White Lily will grow in any soil, but it prefers one
rather light than binding. It is increased by offsets. The
bulbs should be taken up in July, after the leaves and stem
die down, and should not be kept out of the ground over six
weeks. Separate the offsets, and then plant them accord-
ing to fancy, round the garden ; if in rows, about eighteen
inches apart. This bulbous root is so hardy as to require
no protection in the winter. |

where

* .

WALLFLOWER. 275

4

- WALLFLOWER.
| (CHEIRANTHUS CHEIRI.)

“Tt sheds a halo of repose
Around the wrecks of Time;
To beauty give the flaunting Rose,
The Wallflower is sublime.”

This is truly a delightful ornamental evergreen under
shrub, growing about two feet high. It is found growing
in perfection on old walls and castles in England, bearing
yellow flowers from April to July. It is delightfully fragrant,
beyond all the perfumes of Persia. The leaves are lanceo-
late, entire, hairy, two parted; pods linear; stigmas with
incurved lobes. The Wallflower delights in old walls,
where it stows to better perfection than the florist can make
it by cultivation. Whoever has visited England, in the
spring, must be familiar with their attractions, and found them
irresistible, when passing the ruins of an old castle, or walls,

“For the obedient zephyrs bear
Her light seeds round ’yond turret’s mould,
And, undisputed by the tempest there,
They rise'in vegetable gold.”

yes! after withstanding the cold blasts of winter, this
charming flower appears, making the spring more delight-
ful than we could imagine it before. There are several
varieties of the Wallflower, and all attractive; Lut the best
in cultivation is a semi-double, from Germany, so fragrant
as to ravish the senses with its fragrance; it has a more

276 ‘A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

powerful aroma than the deuble, and also seeds freely,
enabling us to increase by that means as well as by slips.

To increase by seeds it will be necessary to sow them in
April, in a sandy loam, and when six leaves are formed
transplant them into four inch pots, which will be large
enough to winter them in; in the beginning of February
shift them into one a size larger.

To propagate from slips it will be necessary to take
them off in the months of May and June, after flowering.
This is decidedly the best way, when you have a plant
whose attractive beauties surpass others.

The slips should be planted round the pot, for if they
come in contact with the sides, the plants will root more
readily. Due moisture is absolutely necessary to their
striking root. In September pot them off, and treat them
the same as seedlings.

The Wallflower will not stand the severity of the winter
in this country; every precaution must, therefore, be used
for their protection; if not kept near the glass (in a pif)
the plant will be drawn up, and its symmetry destroyed.

It may be improved by mixing old lime and rubbish with

loam. This will have a tendency to harden the wood, and
make the flowers more fragrant, than if planted in a rich
soil. Itis well known that sowing the seed of Mignonette
in rich soil has a great tendency to destroy its fragrance ;
and 1 think the same theory will apply to most fragrant
flowers.

- WASH TO DESTROY INSECTS. 277

WASH TO DESTROY INSECTS.

_ Most plants, subject to parlor culture, are liable at differ-
ent seasons to the attacks of insects, particularly the green
fly | on Roses, Geraniums, Calceolarias, and many other
plants. When you find your plants infested with these
troublesome insects, make a wash with two pounds whale
oil soap to sixteen gallons of water; mix them at night,
and the next day, after stirring them well, will be fit
to use, and may be syringed over the plants, or the
branches may be dipped into the suds, and the insects will
disappear the next day.

_ This is a good wash for plants when infested with the
scale bug (which adheres to the stem), by taking a piece
of sponge and cleansing the stems of your plants. Olean-
ders, when troubled with insects, should be treated in the
same manner. The suds will-also be a stimulus to the
growth of the plants; there is, therefore, no danger to be
apprehended from its penetrating the soil in the pots. It
should be observed, if you mix a greater portion of soap
than mentioned a the leaves will drop off the plant,
but they will soon put out again. To kill caterpillars the
decoction should be made stronger ; it will be found to de-
stroy them effectually, when syringed on them, but it will
be necessary to break their web previous to the operation.

278 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

SELECTION AND MANAGEMENT OF
PARLOR PLANTS.

In the culture of flowers in the parlor there is a growing
taste, which should be encouraged. It was not my inten-
tion to offer any inducements on the subject, as my object
was to give as much information as possible. I now deem
it best to point out the plants best suited for that purpose.
The aptness so characteristic in females to propagate flowers,
with little instruction, is manifest to any person perambulat-
ing the city and its suburbs. Still there are many flowers
now cultivated that may be considered worthless by many,
for it will be found that a plant admired and propagated by
one person may not be fancied by another. All flowers
possess some attraction, though a discriminating taste will
differ in persons; this is all proper. Many are cultivated
from the facility of obtaming those most accessible, but
the choicer exotics are more difficult to manage than.
others. Those will be left out of the selection named
on page 282, where I have retained those only that can
be easily managed. The choice of plants in a city is
easily obtained; but those difficult to manage will never
realize the expectation of the amateur for the outlay he
may be induced to make; such are also excluded. Enough
can be had to satisfy the desire of affording a gorgeous dis-
play in their season. ee

The management of well selected plants for the parlor is
more difficult at one time than at another, for a variety
may embrace so extensive an assortment that their treat-

SELECTION AND MANAGEMENT OF PARLOR PLANTS. 279

ment will materially differ.. The various genera of plants
require great care in the winter season from the difference
of heat in the room through the day and night. In the
day plants should receive a due portion of light and air.
To make them thrive in a room as healthful as if kept in
the green-house, light, air, and pathatops watering, are
necessary.

Plants in a room should be kept as near the glass as
possible in the winter, and the pots kept clear of dead
leaves, and be turned round once a week, at least, to pre-
serve uniformity in appearance, or the plants will turn to
the light, growing one-sided and unsightly in their appear-
ance. ‘Then, again, it will be important in mild weather.
to have the windows raised between 10 o’clock in the morn-
ing and 3 in the afternoon, and plants should have the bene-
fit of the morning sun if possible. If the plants by acci-
dent get frosted, the sun should be excluded from them
until it is entirely out of the plant. The frost will not
injure some plants, while others would be entirely
destroyed. In a room, where plants are kept in the
winter, the air should never be below freezing point,
(82° Fahrenheit’s thermometer), and if possible not over
45°. Uniformity in this’ particular is best, but is seldom
attamed in sitting rooms; the difference being greater
through the day than the night, which of itself i is enough
to injure their appearance,

The watering of plants is ithe attended to properly.
This is one of the most essential points in Floriculture.
From November to March plants should be watered in the
morning about 10 o'clock, and the water should be of a

280 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. ©

corresponding warmth with the room; this can be easily

effected by keeping the water pot filled, and letting it re-

main twenty-four hours under the stand, before being used,
or by using a smali quantity of warm water to take the
chill off. To use water too freely, is as bad as none at all ;
for the roots of plants that elongate from the main body
are so formed as to suck up water like a sponge; and in
cold weather the plant is unable to exercise its functions to
elaborate a great quantity at the leaves; it will when in
a vigorous state. For this reason, the soil becomes sodded
and sours; the roots being overcharged the plants will
sicken and die. There are some exceptions to this rule;

for the Camellia Japonica requires a good supply in the

winter, to make their buds swell and expand; so does the
Chrysanthemum, in the early part of the winter. The
practice of placing plants out of doors in the winter, when
it rains, is a bad practice. To place the Cacti family out,
or give them much water in the winter, is sure destruction.
The amateur generally succeeds with this class of plants,
and chiefly from neglect to water them, not by good man-

agement in other respects. A little culture of the Cacti

will generally correct all the evils attendant on them. No
plant in cultivation requires more than that the soil be
kept a little moist, unless plants are in a growing state.
Tt will be plainly seen that plants, overwatered, put on a
sickly hue, which is often mistaken by the novice for the
want of it, and more is applied, which entirely destroys
them. ‘To obviate the evil in some measure, in potting
plants in the spring or fall, give them a good drainage;
this is a term used among gardeners, and may not be fully
understood by others. “It is simply this: when you pot a

SELECTION AND MANAGEMENT OF PARLOR PLANTs. 281

plant, say one of five inches, place one inch of small pieces
of brick or broken crocks at the bottom; other sizes in
proportion, whether larger or smaller. And if the plants
be kept in a saucer to prevent the surplus water from
reaching the carpet, never let the water remain in it (ex-
cept for. swamp plants, Calla Ethiopica and the like), for
when the pots have a good drainage, the water will pass
freely through the soil into the saucer, washing the execre-
mentitious substance from the plants into the saucer. Plants
in the parlor will require less water in December and Jan-
uary than at any other time, for during these months the
major part of Flora’s gems are in a state of rest. In the
month of February nature begins to put forth the signs of
coming spring; our ideas are on the alert, and their antici-
pations are like the buds of the late dormant plants, shoot-
ing luxuriantly at the approach of returning spring ; then
encouragement will be necessary. This must be attended
to by giving your plants water moderately at first, to be
increased as warm weather advances. Most plants require
top dressing or potting. March is a month well calculated
for the operation, while some are better for repotting in
October. These months are suited for the generality
of plants; others through the summer. Experience will
show their time.

There are many annuals and biennials that make very
agreeable parlor companions in the fall and spring, when
in flower, for not all perennials are suitable for that pur-
pose; and there are many bulbous rooted plants worthy
the attention of the amateur, such as Hyacinths, Tulips,
Crocuses, Jonquils, Tuberoses, Polyanthus Narcissus, Snow
Drops (both spring and autumn), Ixias, Amaryllis, Irises

“4

282 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

(Persian), Gladiolus, and many others. Bulbs will do
well in a room, and require but little care. The Amaryllis
tribe, the Tuberose, and the Gladiolus are rather tender.
and should be kept from the frost. |

The following list of perennials may be considered good
for parlor culture: —

Azalia, Crape Myrtle,
Chrysanthemum, 7 Coffee Tree,
Clematis, Camellia,
. Fuchsia, *Geranium [free bloomer],
*Heliotrope, _ . Hydrangea,
Jasmine, _ Lavender,
Laurestinus, Lemon Tree,
*Lemon Scented Verbena, *Passion Flower, —
Oleander, Orange Tree, —
Pomegranate, . Rhododendron,
Roses [in pots], Myrtle,
Tea Tree, Wallflower,
*Wax Plant. ne

Those marked with the star (*) are tender, and must be
guarded against frost. The hybrid Geraniums are very
difficult to keep; it will therefore be necessary not to
rebuy such as you find difficult to keep.

Soft wooded and fibrous rooted Biennials and Perennials :

*Acapanthus, Auricula,
Carnation, : . Begonia,
*Cacti, *Daisy,
China Pink, - *Forget-me-not,
*Cineraria, *Gloxinia,
Campanula persicifolia, Japan Lily,

Canterbury Bell, *Lychnis Brungeana,

| dal

SELECTION AND MANAGEMENT OF PARLOR PLANTS. 283

- *China Primrose, Martagon Lily,
*Calla Ethiopica, | *Nasturtium,
*Oxalis, - Petunia,

Polyanthus, » Pimpernel,
Picotees, ow aohe Pink,
‘Primrose, Pansy, —
Ragged Robin, Verbena.

(*) Will not stand much frost, and should be protected.

Annuals to be sown in September, and brought into the
house to flower during the winter, to accomplish which
will require a warm situation. ;

Brachycome iberidifolia, ‘Maurandia Barclayana,
Campanula, ~ Mignonette,

Dew Plant, pO Mimulus,

Ice Plant, | Musk Plant,

Jacobea, =§ Martynia fragrans,
Nemophila, ix Phlox Drummondii,
Portulaca, | Schizanthus,

Sensitive Plant.

GROWING PLANTS FROM THE LEAF.

This system of late appears to meet with much approval
notwithstanding its tardy way of increasing the varieties of
pot plants. When a seedling plant does really possess su-
perior merit, and the increase desirable whether for sale or
novelty itis well enough. There is certainly a kind of aris-
tocratic feeling in the idea of having a plant raised from the

284 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

simple leaf, which in former days would appear incredible.
The Gloxinia has long been propagated by that medium,
but the organization of the midrib of the leaf is peculiar to
its species, materially different from other plants, and if the
leaves lie near the soil, bulbs will form on the under side,
not so with other plants. To propagate by the leaf, it is
immaterial whether Rose Pelargonium, or other plants,
it is necessary to take the foctstalk of the leaf close to the
joint of the plant, for the all important material to form —
roots belongs to the joint, being more succulent than other
parts, consequently the formation of those parts are raore
prone to form root fibres. The soil should be, if possible,
leaf mould and sand, equal parts. The leaf stock after
inserted and watered should be covered with a beil-glass,
the same as cuttings, and as the roots elongates down, so
will the embryo of the new plant appear above the soil,
assimilating in appearance to seedlings, and will take about
the same time to flower. It will be necessary to admit air
as the plants increase in size. ‘These phenomenas of nature
and art generally create a pleasing effect on the mind of the
young florist, as novelty is a solace always pleasing to the
amateur, especially when cultivating on a new theory.

FLORICULTURAL CALENDAR. 285

THE FLOWER GARDEN,
OR”

FLORICULTURAL CALANDAR FOR THE YEAR.

JANUARY.

_ At this dreary time of the year there ought not to be
much to do; all necessary precaution should have been
taken for the protection of outstanding plants in the pre-
vious months; still, if not attended to as directed, let it be
done without delay, or you may lose some valuable plants.
Should the weather be mild and the ground not frozen, and
you have any bulbous roots out of the ground, plant them
without delay, to save them, but good flowers must not be
expected from them. Still continue to manure such beds
as need it, and turn them over on all favorable occasions.
It will have a tendency to destroy cut worms. This being
a leisure time, prepare sticks for carnations, and other
flowers that will need support in the summer, and paint
them green or slate color. You will find some advantage
in attending to this if only for a pastime.

THE PARLOR.

Great caution will be required in watering plants
during this month; give water to none but those in a

286 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

growing state; and then in small quantities. It is better
to give little and often, than lose your plants by flooding
them ; and be particular when you do water them, that the
chill is off, or you will soon perceive the evil tendency
of such neglect. The Camellia is a plant that thrives
best when its leaves are kept clean, and at this season it
will require a good supply of water, or their flower buds
will not swell and expand ; in washing their leaves never
let the water touch the flower petals, or you will destroy
their beauty. ‘The room where you keep those beautiful
flowering plants should be moderately heated; and give
them plenty of air whenever you can do it with safety.
The Camellia is by no means tender, but will bear con-
siderable frost, without injuring the plant; but it is best
kept in a room never below the freezing point ; when once
understood, it is one of the easiest plants to manage we have
in parlor culture.

Chinese Primroses should be shifted into a pot one size
larger the last of this month, and be abundantly supplied
with water; their flowers will then expand to perfection.
Azalias should be kept near the window, to induce them
to grow; water them sparingly at first. Hyacinths, and
all bulbs in glasses, need attention; guard them against
frost, and change the water often; those in pots will require
plenty of water, and must be kept in the window to receive
the warmth of the sun, and be removed at night. The
Cacti are now in a state of rest, and must be kept moder-
ately dry. Geraniums, the last of this month, will need
repotting, and should be watered sparingly. Keep your
pots and plants clean, and free of dead leaves, to preserve
neatness and make your plants healthy.

FEBRUARY, 287

FEBRUARY.

_ Much of the labor of this month will depend greatly on
the weather; if cold or wet little can be done, with the
exception of transplanting ornamental trees and shrubs,
such as Roses, Syringas, Persian,-and other Lilacs, Peo-
neas, Arbor Vites, &c. This should be attended to so soon
as the frost is out of the ground, and their respiratory organs
begin to put out. In transplanting Roses it is necessary to cut
them down to within one foot of the ground, as in remov-
ing them many of the spongioles of the root are destroyed
(an unavoidable occurrence); deprived of this essential to
maintain the whole wood after removal, they lose the prin-
- Ciple of life, and in most cases, by not attending to the prun-
ing, the tree lingers, and finally dies). When pruned as
directed, there is less sap to be supplied, and as the leaves
and root depend on each other for support, there is enough
left to equalize each other, and on their being re-established
the growth is abundant and healthy. si

In removing evergreen trees, the Arbor Vite, for instance,
their roots do not diverge far from the main body; being
more compact, the main body of the roots can be removed.’
without causing much injury; but if disturbed as much as
deciduous shrubs, in their removal, nothing will restore
them to their former vigor and dich This is one cause
of so much failure in trees purchased in the markets,
brought from the mountainous regions. By paying a trifle
more, better trees could be purchased of nurserymen, with
a warranty.

288 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

In the latter part of this month commence transplanting
biennial and perennial flowering plants, to where they are
intended to flower. If those plants have been kept in the
house through the winter, it will be necessary to have large
flower pots handy to cover them at night, until hardened
to withstand the spring frost. In the last of this month,
should the weather be fine, give Carnations, Picotees, and
Pinks in pots a gentle watering. Auriculas, Polyanthuses,
and Primulas, should be top dressed, and watered occa-
sionally, to encourage their growth. Seeds of choice Pan-
sies, Auriculas, Polyanthuses, Mignonette, Martynia fra-
grans, and. other parlor plants, may be sown in boxes or
flower pots, be covered with glass, and placed so that they
will receive the morning sun. ‘Those desirous of still more
early flowers should prepare a hot bed of stable manure to
start them in; and when the plants are large enough they
should be potted into thumb pots, and returned to the hot
bed, until the roots are re-established. Roses not trimmed
last fall should be attended to without delay. Beds may

be prepared for Ranunculuses and Anemones as soon as the

ground can be turned up without adhering to the spade.

THE PARLOR.

Should the weather be warm shift the followmg plants

into a pot, one size larger than they have been kept
in through the winter: — Wallflowers, Martynia fra-

grans, Geraniums, Roses, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Fuch-
sias, Calceolarias, Stock Gillyflowers, and many others not

named. Chinese Primroses may be placed in a saucer the

last of this month, during their flowering season; and will

FEBRUARY. _ 289

do well, also, the Calla Ethiopica, and be watered regular-
ly. The Camellia should be watered abundantly, as their
flowers will now be expanding in all their beauty. Achi-
menes of all kinds should be potted, and be placed in a hot
bed, and be kept moist. Hyacinths, in glasses, will now
begin to show their flower buds ; when the scape becomes
tall they may require support, which should be done with
wire fastened to the glass. Tulips, and other bulbs in pots,
must be watered freely, as their flowering stems advance.
All plants in pots will begin to grow; give little water
and plenty of air, and keep them clear of leaves. In giving
your plants air let them be well guarded against frost.
Azalias should be watered more freely than last month,
and still be kept near the glass; when their flowers Beer
be liberal with water, or the flowers will soon fade and fall
off, Gladiolus floribundus and cardinalis, also Sprekelia
Formosissima, formerly Amaryllis formosissima, may be
potted to flower early: be careful in watering them, until
you perceive them growing. By the last of this month
the Cactus tribe will require a little encouragement.

MARCH.

With this month commences the spring, and the business
of this department will accumulate as the warm weather
approaches, and on the industry of the amateur will depend
their appearance for the coming season. Commence re-
moving the protection from the Tulip and Hyacinth beds;

25

290 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

this should not be done too suddenly, as we have generally
some cold weather in this month; therefore the weather
must be your criterion to goby. The protection round
your tender Roses may also be removed by degrees.
Choice seeds may be sown for early flowers; this should
be effected with the assistance of bottom heat, or they may
be sown in drills, in a box, each variety to be labelled and
covered with a pane of glass. There are two advantages
attending the seeds sown this way; the first is, the glass
will cause more heat than if sown in the open ground, and
the next is, when the seeds are up and in the seed leaf (the
time most likely.to be injured by the frost), the glass is
some protection, and if very severe weather ensues, the box
can be removed into the house. Again, if the seed be
sown in the open ground, the soil at this season should not
be dug more than half spade deep, as the soil ts too cold
and would rot them. Experience will teach that when
seed intended to be sown thus early, the soil should be stir-
red only with a rake; much benefit will result, for that
only which has received the influence of the sun will be
found congenial to the germination of seeds. ;

Hardy Roses may now be propagated by grafting the
more choice kind on the roots of the common kinds. Car-
nations, Picotees, and Pinks, should not be removed from
their winter quarters before the grass on the commons and
fields begins to grow, for the sharp cutting winds this month
are dangerous to those flowers. When you perceive the
weather settled, about the last of the month, those intended
to flower in pots should be shifted into a five inch pot, and
be top dressed ; expose them to gentle showers to encourage
their growth.

MARCH. 291

Ornamental trees and deciduous shrubs may still be
removed, the sooner the better, as well as biennial and
. perennial flowering plants. Borders and edges may now

be made of Privet, Box, and of the Pheasant Eyed Pink,
and turf laid. Box may now be slipped and will root
readily, which should be planted by itself the first season.
Rake your beds, destroy dead leaves, and clear the paths
from rubbish, and make improvements that will be bene-
ficial as well as ornamental in the flower garden. Unpack
your Dahlias, and give them air to prevent their rotting.

THE PARLOR.

Plants of all descriptions should be repotted without de-
lay, if not done last month. ‘This month is one of the best
in the year for general potting, and when it was neglected
Tast fall it should be attended to now. Roses, when re-
potted, should be trimmed, and, if necessary, the parts
trimmed off may be converted into cuttings to increase the
stock. Hyacinths in glasses will now be in flower, and
should be kept from the sun to preservetheir beauty. Ca-
~-meilias will now be in their flowering season, and should
be abundantly supplied with water; and their leaves must
be kept clean, and when done flowering they should be
repotted, and inarched, if a stock of good ones is desired.
This should be done bebe the plants make their young
“wood. .

It will be necessary to keep your plants out of reach of
cutting winds, so prevalent this month, also from the frost,
or they will be greatly 1 injured. Mignonette, Petunia, Por-
wulacca, Nemophilla insignis, Verbena, and other choice ;

292 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

seeds may be sown in bexes, to decorate the windows ;
they should be transplanted into five inch pots when of
sufficient size for that purpose. Orange and Lemon Trees
should have their roots examined ; if found to be mouldy
that part should be cut off, and-then repot them again,
Geraniums should be examined, as the frost or damp air
will affect their leaves ; such as you find injured should be
taken off; give them a top dressing to encourage their
growth, and give all plants plenty of air whenever the
weather will admit.

APRIL.

_ This will be a busy month, for much has to be done,
and on the operation of the flower garden this month will
depend much the appearance for the whole summer. In the
first place, rake the ground where you intend to sow
flower seeds; it is not advisable to dig the ground for that
purpose, as it is yet too cold to receive seed; that part
which can be turned over with the rake has received the
warmth of the sun, and is consequently more congenial for
their reception. To give a catalogue of such seeds as I
think most suitable for the flower garden is foreign to the
object in view, as what one person would think ornamental
another might not; therefore, persons in their selections
must be governed by their own taste. There are no flow-
ers but what some one will admire. All flowers possess
beauty, but we do not all appreciate it. Carnations, Pico-

APRIL. . 293.

tees, and Pinks intended to flower in the open ground,
should be set out without delay, and those intended to
flower in pots should be shifted into five inch ones, and be
encouraged in their growth ; it would be a good plan to sink
the pots into the open ground until the flowers are ready
to expand, then remove them to a shady situation. Finish
dividing and planting perennial Sunflowers, Double Sweet
Williams, Scarlet Lychnis, Double Fever Few, and all
fibrous rooted plants that will bear dividing, as they will
root freely. By the last of this month dig up your garden
and (if the weather is warm) plant Gladiolus, Tuberose,
Tigridia pavonia, Conchiflora, and such Amaryillisses as
bloom in the summer.
' Persons wishing to have early Dahlias should place
the roots in a half spent hot bed, but it would be best not
to sprout them before next month, if you wish good flow-
ers. In the last of the month begin to sow biennial and
perennial flowering seeds. Hyacinths and Tulips in the
open ground will be advancing rapidly towards blooming;
should any require a stick to support them let it be done
neatly, and loosen the soil between the rows; it will benefit
them much. Turf for lawns or plats in front situations
may be laid to advantage, and shade trees may still be
planted out, but not later than the first week in the month.
Arbor Vite, White Pines, and Cedars, and the like, for
ornamentine the garden, may ‘be planted all this month.
Seeds sown last month should be attended to, as the frost is
apt to kill them in the seed leaf. In the last of this month
take cuttings of Chrysanthemums, place them under glass,
and in four weeks they will be well rooted.

294 A GUIDE TO. FLORICULTURE.

THE PARLOR,

Give your plants plenty of air, and begin to water them
more freely. Tender Roses may be planted out, and also
be propagated by cuttings. Orangeand Lemon Trees that
require removing into larger pots or tubs, should have it
done. Pomegranate, Crape Myrtle, and Jasmines, should
be either repotted or planted into the open ground. Azaliag
and Rhododendrons will require plenty of water, or their
flowers will drop. Camellias will still be in bloom; follow
the direction given last month. Calceolarias, Cinerarias,
Auriculas, and Polyanthuses will now begin to flower, and
should be placed in the shade. Slips should be taken from
the Auricula while m flower, as each color or variety can
then be more readily marked, and the slips will root quick.
Chinese Primroses, as they go out of flower, should be
divided by parting the root; each star will make a root by
placing them in the shade, and watering them regularly.
Geraniums will soon be in flower, and will require atten-
tion to make them flower well ; slips, taken off at any time
after the middle of the month, will make good plants for
next season. Seeds sown last month, for parlor culture,
will be large enough some time this month to transplant
into four inch pots; give them rich soil; use no saucers
for them, as they are required for swamp plants only.

MAY. 295

MAY.

This is another busy month in this department, and the
earliest attention must be directed to finish sowing all kinds
of seeds; transplant those sown in March and April.—
Seedling plants, when of sufficient size, should be trans-
planted to where they are intended to flower, and great
eare should be taken to remove them with as much dirt as
will hang to the roots. This rule does not apply to the
Pansy, for if grown large it will be necessary to wash
the dirt from their roots, or the plants will not survive the
summer. . |

Tender Roses should be planted into the open ground,
and they will flower more freely all summer, and need no
trouble the remainder of the season ; they will make large
plants by the fall. Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks, now
spindling up to flower, should have sticks, and be tied as
they grow, to prevent the misfortune often attending them
by being broken off by rough winds, or by accident.
Hyacinths, when done flowering; and as soon as their
leaves die down, should be taken up; also, Crown Impe-
tials and Crocuses. The best time to take up Tulips is
about five weeks after flowering ; but much depends upon’
the weather. Above al] things, never take up bulbous
roots, if possible, in damp or rainy weather; the ground
ought to be dry, or the sudden transition may destroy
them. It will be found best to take up bulbous roots
every season, which prevents the ground from deteriorating
by the excrementitious discharge from the bulbs into the

296 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

soil. It is so with the agriculturist; a farmer finds it ne-
cessary to change his crops.. Were the system adhered to,
of sowing the same field with any particular kind of grain
for several years, it would become sterile, and fit for
nothing. :

Wallflowers may be ee in moist “weather, by
taking slips of the young shoots and planting them in the
shade, and watering them regularly in dry weather; in six
weeks, if properly attended to, they will be fit to pot off,
or they may remain in the ground until fall, if your object
be large plants, which is desirable. No Wallflower is
worth growing from slips but the Double and Semi-
Double; the latter is preferable. Cape Bulbs, of any
kind that will flower in the summer, should be planted
without delay. Chrysanthemums may still be propagated
by cuttings. Hoe, rake, and keep the beds clear of weeds,
for nothing attracts the attention of strangers so much as a
well regulated flower garden, free of weeds.

China Pinks should be planted alongside the Double
Sweet William; by this means the two will cross with-
out artificial fecundation, and produce a beautiful hybrid
plant, ornamental as well as desirable in the flower gar-
den.

Those whose taste ae to the improvement of flowers
by hybridizing, should now begin, as the field opens for
their industry. This art has done ae for the florist ; as
a proof of which we need only point out the pineckea of
the Rose. There are other plants equally as susceptible of
improvement. The industrious bee was the first to en-—
lighten us on this subject, as it carried the pollen from
flower to flower, effecting what man little dreamed of To

“MAY. 297

carry out this system, it would be necessary, the first thing
in the morning, to take a camel’s hair pencil and remove
the pollen from the anthers of one flower, and place it on
the summit of the pistil of a different plant, whose anthers
were previously cut out very early in the morning, before
that flower had shed its pollen. However simple this may
appear, still there is great nicety required in the operation ;

and if the object has been attained, the flower impregnated
will fade in twenty-four hours; if you discern no percepti-
ble difference in the appearance of the flower, try another,
and you may meet with better success. With flowers that
do not seed freely, for instance the Chrysanthemum, Car-
nation, &c., it will be a waste of time to try experiments of
this kind. |

THE PARLOR.

Auriculas past flowering should be watered regularly in
dry weather, and be placed where the sun does not shine
after nine in the morning; remove all dead leaves as they
appear, and keep the pots clear of weeds. This isa good
time to detach offsets from the parent plant; pot and keep
them in the shade until rooted, and then treat them the
same as full grown plants. Polyanthuses may be treated.
the same as Auriculas. The Polyanthus is subject to the
attacks of the red spider. ‘The leaves should be watered
frequently all over. -

The Camellia will now be out , flower, and may be
placed in a shady situation for the summer, and syringed
often, to keep | their leaves clean, and to keep the red spider
off, 7 which will be necessary, if you want'a profusion of

298 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

flowers next season. This magnificent plant will not
thrive without the leaves are kept clean, and have a good
drainage, which should be attended to when repotting.
Geraniums will grow from slips, also Verbenas and Helio-
tropes ; the two latter may be planted in the open ground,
where they will make a showy appearance through the
summer. Oxales, when done flowering, should be removed
into the shade, and be watered sparingly until in a-state of
rest, when no more should be given. Plants of all de-
scriptions (Cacti excepted) may be removed the last of this
month into the garden where a shady situation is prefer-
able for most pot plants; they must be watered daily.

JUNE.

Some activity will be necessary in this department the
whole of this month. The attention of the amateur will
be required, first to the Carnations, Picotees, and choice
Pinks in tieing them up; and as their flowers will begin
to expand this month, if you discover any inclined to burst
on one side, take a sharp pointed knife and make an in-
cision on the opposite side of the calyx, for the. weather
will sometimes cause that defect, and if precautionary
means be not taken the petals will fall out, and destroy the
symmetry of the flower. The majority of prize flowers of
this family of plants are constitutionally defective in that
particular. When such is the case, take a fine piece of
Russia matting, or a piece of bladder, and tie around the

JUNE. 299
calyx about midway, previously dipping it into water to
make it pliable. As these flowers begin to decay com-
mence piping and layering them. This part of increasing
your stock will occupy from June to September, as some
plants are much earlier than others. }

All danger of frost being now over begin to plant out

Dahlias without delay, and drive a stake to each for sup-
port, as they progress in height.
_ Finish transplanting all annual flowering plants, such
as China Asters, Balsams, Cockscombs, China Pinks,
Marigolds, &c. Biennials and perennials can be trans-
planted at leisure. Take up fall flowering bulbs, sepa-
rate the offsets, and transplant them into another part of
the garden. suaphie

Take up all bulbous roots that have done flowering,
whose foliage has died down, and place them in a shaded
situation, where there is a free circulation of air, to dry,
and no rain can reach them. |

The Ranunculus may be removed about four weeks
after flowering, and dried and packed in sand. Anemones
should be thus treated about the same time, or they will
strike fresh root fibres; being more succulent than the
Ranunculus, they will continue growing much longer,
which should not be allowed. A discrimination is to be
observed in their management that requires experience to
surmount.

The following perennials may now be increased by cut-
tings, before their flowers expand : — Phlox, in all its varte-
ties, Double Scarlet Lychnis, Lobelia cardinalis, Ragged
Robin, by division of the roots, suckers of the Double

300 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

Sweet Williams should be laid down, and covered with the
soil; they will root freely.

Frat) Roses should be layered without delay; they
will make good roots by the fall. Roses should be layered —
in much the same manner as the Carnation, cut in at the
joint, and slit half way up to the next jomt. Be particular
that the slit does not close, which can be prevented by
placing a little moss between ; your plants will make good
roots by November. Chrysanthemums should be divided
at the roots, placing one slip only ina five inch pot, and
top them.

In moist weather trim Box to make it uniform and neat.
Mow grass plats in front of houses, for if allowed to grow »
tall it destroys the beautiful effect so desirable in its appear-
ance. Destroy insects on plants whenever they appear.
Lay tanner’s bark or gravel in the walks, and keep
every part free of weeds, and attend to other little mat-
ters necessary for effect.

THE PARLOR

Plants of all descriptions should be placed in the shady
side of the garden, but avoid the drips of trees, and water
them every evening. Verbenas and Petunias will grow
freely from cuttings, and may be planted into the open
ground when rooted; they will make a splendid appear-
ance throu aple the summer, when planted in a bed by them-
selves* the situation should be open and airy, to ensure a
fine bloom. Orange and Lemon Trees should be removed
out into the open air, and be watered regularly, to insure a
good supply of fruit. .

JUNE. 301

Succulent plants may now be propagated, particularly
the Cacti family. In propagating the Cactus by cuttings,
avoid watering them until their roots are formed; even
then it must be used sparingly. It isa matter of doubt
whether this family of plants should be placed out of doors
in the summer. The safest plan will be to keep them in
the house, as there are seasons when water is destructive to
them ; heavy rains must, therefore, be injurious. It will
be as well through the summer to lay them on their sides
and wash them to keep off the red spider.

June is a good time to graft the Cactus. Geraniums
may be propagated by cuttings as well as the Heliotrope.
Camellias must be syringed every night, to keep. their
leaves clean, as the dust will accumulate on them in dry
weather ; water them every night, as their flower buds will
now begin to'form. ‘Tender Roses may be increased by
cuttings from the young wood, when a little hardened ;
they will make strong plants by the fall. _

This month is the best in the whole year for propagat-
ing Roses; it is therefore advisable for those wishing to
increase their stock, to embrace it. Rose cuttings put down
in April will be fit to pot off the last of the month. Ex-
otic plants, of different kinds, may be increased either by
cuttings or layering. Auriculas and Polyanthuses must be
removed to a shady situation, and will require strict atten-
tion through the summer. Keep your pot plants clear of
dead leaves and weeds. Cinerarias that-are done flower-
ing may be planted into the open ground in the shade,
until September, the best time to take slips for spring

plants.

302 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

JULY.

Any labor omitted last month should now be attended
to without delay. Biennials and perennials should be
planted out in damp weather, about six inches apart, to
gain strength. Dahlias should be tied up securely, to pre-
vent the wind and rain from breaking them down. Cut-
tings of Dahlias may be taken and will root freely in the
shade, and should be kept in four mch pots. Plants thus
struck and kept in pots will do better to propagate from
next season; large plants in the open ground will not
flower well the second season as they are apt to be ex-
hausted, which is not the case with pot plants.

It would improve Dahlias much to place manure around
the roots, to keep them moist in dry weather; syringe
them occasionally to keep off the red spider.

Carnations, Picotees, and choice Pinks, -should be
layered without delay, if strong plants are wanted in the
fall; twenty-four hours prior to which, water your plants
dehy: to make them bend with greater facility, or the
greater portion will snap off, being rather brittle.

The easiest way to propagate Pinks is by piping, they
being more susceptible of making root by this process,
than the Carnation. In layering Carnations, sometimes

the part intended to be layered will snap off notwithstand- ~

ing all the precaution you may use; should the plant be
valuable, then pipe them as I shall point out for Pinks.
In the first place get some garden soil, and make it light
by mixing plenty of sand and rotten leaves, that will pass

6

vey. t 303

through a wire seive. Put this composition into a ten
inch seed pan, and level the top and water it well; then
take your Pinks intended for cuttings and cut them off at
the third joint with a sharp knife; be careful and noi
bruise them', also, cut off the ends of the leaves or grass, as
the gardeners term them. Having prepared as many as
you wish, place them in a basin of cold water for about
ten minutes, to make them stiff and enter the soil with
more ease ; this done, take a bell glass and press on the
soil to make 2 mark, the better to guide you to insert your
pipings ; keep them within the space designed to receive
them; then stick them into the soil to the first joint, about
half an inch apart, each way ; water them gently to settle
the soil around the plants; and when the grass is suf-
ficiently dry put on the glass to exclude the air, and place
them in the shade. At the expiration of two weeks take
off the glass, and water them; be careful and not. cover
them until the grass is dry, or your pipings will damp off
and your labor be lost. When you perceive they begin
to grow give a little air by degrees. You will find some
more backward than others in growing, which will require
some precaution in admitting air too freely. In about six
weeks, if your plants have been well attended to, they will
have formed sufficient root to be transplanted into the open
ground. Itis said that pipings make the best and most
hardy plants. Pinks will. grow readily from slips, and
make large plants in less time than pipings, which is a
_ desirable object. It will frequently happen that layers are
destroyed by heavy and continuous rains; therefore all the
Jayers should not be layered at once, to guard against such
a circumstance.

304 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

Now begin to bud choice Roses on the Boursalt and
Maiden’s Blush ; the former is the best, as the Blush will
be always throwing out suckers. The bark should be pre-
viously examined, for unless it parts freely it will be use-
less to bud or inoculate them.

Spring flowering bulbs, if any remain in the ground,
should be taken up without delay; if allowed to strike
fresh root it will be too late to remove them without sus-
taining much injury.

White Lilies may be taken up and removed by the last
of this month, without injuring them, but should not be
kept out of the ground over six weeks.

In dry weather water China Asters and Balsams freely,
if you wish ‘them to flower well. Chrysanthemums
should be topped this month, to make them throw out
lateral shoots, and those wishing dwarf plants can layer
them ; water freely and they. will soon form good roots.

THE PARLOR.

Camellias must be attended to with the strictest attention
during this month, as the quantity of their flowers will de-
pend on this. ‘Those wishing a good show of flowers
ought to assist nature in her work. Fuchsias should now
be shifted into a pot one size larger, and be watered freely.
Geraniums should be cut down and repotted, and the tops
converted into cuttings for new flowering plants. Cactuses
should be repotted. Verbenas will need a pot one size
larger. Orange and Lemon Trees should be budded, and
water administered freely to all pot plants.

afl \ AUGUST. 305

AUGUST.

_ The labor of transplanting annuals, biennials, and peren-
nials must now necessarily be over for the season ; and
attention should be directed to their improvement, in
making them appear neat by tying stakes and trellises
for their tender branches to support themselves on, and cut
off unsightly branches whenever you discover them.—
Dahhas should be trimmed as often as necessary; tie them
up neatly to their stakes to protect them from heavy rains
and winds; if the weather should be dry water them at
the roots, and syringe their foliage all over occasionally ;
this will destroy the red spider and keep your plants in a
healthy state. If you find small insects infesting your
plants you must endeavor to destroy them, to accomplish
this object it should be.done in the morning, while the
dew is on the plant, as they are less active then than at
other times. It will be necessary sometimes, in the early
season, to cut your plants nearly to the ground, as they
are apt to eat out the bud and stunt the plants; but when
the plant is full of vigor they will outgrow the damage
done by these troublesome insects. |

Be particular and never allow weeds to go to seed this
month; it will save you much future trouble. Carnations,
Bitotdes, and Pinks may still be layered, where it was not
attended to last month; those already rooted may be sepa-
rated from the parent plant and set out into the open
ground until October to gain strength. Carnation and
Pink pipings will require strict attention in dry weather,

| 26

3056 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

and must be kept damp. Collect seeds, when the weather
is fine, from different plants as soon as ripe; cut down old
flowering stems of plants that are unsightly.

Chrysanthemums should be topped without delay, if not .

already done, and plants layered last month should be
watered every night, as well as those in pots.

Seeds of Pansies should be sown, to make large plants
for the spring, and choice varieties may be increased by
cuttings.

Roses may be | by ——— so long as the bark
_ parts freely.

By the last of this month begin to increase double
flowering fibrous rooted perennials, that have done flower-
_ ing, such as the Scarlet Lychnis, Daisies, Polyanthuses,
Auriculas, and Sweet Williams, also Pansies, and different
kinds of Campanulas, Rose Campions, &c. In dividing
these roots let it be performed in damp weather, and always
place them in the shade; your plants will then make good
roots in a short time. Seedling Auriculas and Polyan-
thuses should be potted off into three inch pots; they will
flower in the spring. In dry weather it will be necessary
to water your flower beds. This will only apply to small
gardens within the city, for plants in the country will grow
well enough without, being invigorated by a free circula-
tion of air, a great desideratum, and not to be obtained
within the precincts of the city ; artificial means must

therefore be resorted to, to counterbalance ea defi-

ciencies.

wisi

AUGUST. 307
if ¢ THE PARLOR.

Camellias by this time have formed their flower buds
fully, and will now commence growing ; they may be in-
creased from cuttings (single only), or by grafting. Much
care should be taken in propagating this species of mag-
“nificent plants by keeping the cuttings and grafted plants
in one uniform heat, if you wish to succeed. Calla Ethio-
pica should be divided at the roots, and be repotted. —
Orange and Lemon Trees may still be budded, if not
done before, with a prospect of success. There are many
seeds that may be sown for this department, which will
flower at different periods through the winter, such as
Nemophilla, Mignonette, Schizanthus, Mimulas, &c. °

Geraniums may still be increased by cuttings. Rose
cuttings put down in May will now be fit to pot off All
plants in pots must be liberally supplied with water during
this month, to keep them in health.

*. ~

SEPTEMBER.

With this month commences the first indication of the
appearance of winter, which is exemplified in the -irregu-
larity in plants. Having wholly performed the functions
of life which nature and art bestowed on them, they will
begin to decay. After their seeds are collected cut their
stems off, if perennials; biennials and annuals should be
pulled up and thrown away to preserve a neat appearance.

308 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

Carnations, Picotees, and choice Pinks, may still be layer-
ed, until the middle of the month, but not after, as the
season will be too far advanced to enable them to make
good roots before the frost sets in. Those layered last
month, and well rooted, should be separated from the
parent plant. Dahlias will now be luxuriating in their
greatest beauty, and should be tied up to prevent their
fragile branches from breaking off by the effects of wind
or rain. Chinese Chrysanthemums will need much at-
tention at this time; they must be regularly watered, and
those in the ground, when their flower buds are well
formed, should be lifted in rainy weather, and those layer-
ed to make dwarf plants should also be potted. Com-
mence preparing your beds for the reception of bulbous
roots, for beds should be prepared at least two weeks before
being planted, to allow the ground to settle. :
Tender bulbs in the ground, such as the Gladiolus,
Amaryllis, Tuberose, Pavonia, &c., should be taken up on
the first appearance of frost. By the last of the month
commence removing hardy biennials and perennials to
where they are intended to flower the coming spring.
Divide perennials, such as the Double Sweet William,
Scarlet Lychnis, Foxglove, &c., so that the plants may
gain strength before the winter sets in. Many annuals
will withstand the winter, if their seeds be sown this
month, such as the Rocket Larkspur, Flos Adonis, Catch-
fly, Candytuft, é&c., and many others may be sown and
potted off next month, and protected; for any annual that
can be preserved through the winter wi'l flower earlier, be
much larger, and will produce better seed for another
season. a

SEPTEMBER: 809

THE PARLOR.

Tender Roses ould be potted, if in 5 Ae open ground ;
let it be done in moist weather, and they will recover and
flower again in November. Geranium cuttings should be
potted, giving them a good drainage. Lemons, Oranges,

and Myrtles should be housed the latter part of this month,

previous to which either top dress the plants, or shift them
into a tub or pot one size larger. The seeds of Mignio-
_nette, and other plants wanted to flower early in the house,
may still be sown. Verbenas, Heliotropes, and other
choice plants that are tender, may be potted. Plants that
are succulent prefer a light dry soil, or their humidity will
cause them to rot; but shrubby plants will require a strong
soil, if convenient a maiden soil with manure; and, if
necessary, a small portion of sand to prevent its binding.
Be sure and give all plants good drainage. It often hap-
pens that at the last of this month we are visited by a
heavy frost; it will therefore be important to have all
-tender plants ready to be removed, to prevent injury.

In the middle of the month remove Camellias into
their winter quarters, prior to which wash every leaf
‘clean, as this magnificent plant will not thrive unless
kept clean, and give them all the air possible, or the
transition will cause their flower buds to drop, which
should be avoided.

In lifting Oleanders that were’ pieced into the open
ground in the spring, great care should be taken not to
injure the small and tender root fibres, or their heads will
droop and not rise again, much to their injury in appear-

310 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. |

ance. The Auricula and Polyanthus may be divided and
potted off, and placed in winter quarters.

OCTOBER.

The last of this month commences the busy time in the
flower garden, and it will be time to provide a suitable
place for such plants as require some protection. Beds
should now be prepared for Tulips, Hyacinths, and other
hardy bulbs that flower in the spring. Hyacinths, Tulips,
Jonquils, and other bulbs intended to flower in the house,
should be potted, and then sunk into the ground until
December; by that time they will have formed good roots,
and may then be brought into the house to flower. It is
time now to finish dividing perennial rooted. plants that
were omitted last month. The Perennial Sunflower, if not
divided and removed every season, will return to its pris-
tine state, and lose its interesting beauty; also divide the
Double Feverfew, Scarlet Lychnis, Sweet William, Phlox,
and all fibrous rooted plants that require protection. Pan-
sies may be divided and potted, being careful that every
slip be furnished with roots. Transplant seedling Canter-
bury Bells, Foxgloves, Rose Campions, Wallflowers, and
Brompton Stocks should be potted off into five inch pots,
and be protected through the winter. Chinese Chrysan-
themums in the ground should be potted in moist weather,
before the frost takes them, or the beauty of their flowers
will be injured.

Ne hodoan. 7 4

OCTOBER. Bit

Pot off Carnations, Picotees, and the finest Pinks, and
place them where the frost, snow, or rain will not injure
them during the winter. Roses, Arbor Vites, and most
deciduous trees and shrubs can be removed without dan-
ger after the 25th of this month.

Labels should now be prepared for Dahlias, and secure-
ly fixed to every one as you take them up, to prevent any
mistake. Take up tender bulbs on the first appearance of
frost, and place them in an airy room to dry. Remove all
decayed flower stems, and keep your beds as neat as pos-
sible; dead leaves should be kept by themselves, to be
converted into manure for pot plants. Whatever was re-
commended last month is also applicable to this; for some-
times the season is much later one year than another, and
the whole management must be-regulated accordingly.

_ It would not be amiss to get a load of maiden soil, and
mix a small portion of old manure with it, to stand all the
‘winter exposed to the weather, turning it over occasionally
to mellow. It is excellent for potting off. plants in the
spring, and much advantage would be gained in making
your plants grow more freely and luxuriantly.

\ THE PARLOR. —

In housirig Camellias, great care should be taken to
regulate the heat of the room; for too much dry heat will
cause the flower buds to blast. Where the atmosphere is
arid it will be found impossible for those plants to succeed.
As the Camellia is rather hardy, and will bear considerable
frost, a room that is kept a little above the freezing pot
will be found most congenial. Much uniformity is re-

312 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

quired; a room, therefore, that is kept very warm in the
day time, and the frost allowed to penetrate at night, creates
too great a change for any variety of plants. If uniformity
cannot be obtained keep them in the coldest part of the
room, as the change would not be felt so much. A pit
raade about six feet deep, covered with glass, is preferable
to the green-house for the Camellia, and when the plants
are ready to expand they can be removed to the Rs gr to
perfect their flowers.

Geranium cuttings should be potted off, and in ddl
watered; Rose cuttings put down in June will be fit to pot
off Canterbury Bells and Foxgloves intended for early
flowering should be potted for that service. Oranges, Le-
mons, Oleanders, and similar shrubs and trees should be
placed out of reach of frost. Hydrangeas, Fuchsias, Glox-
inias, and other tender deciduous plants, should be
watered sparingly, as their time of rest is drawing nigh.
Auriculas, Polyanthuses, and all other Primulas should be
removed into the house. In mild weather give all plants
just removed into the house all the air possible, which will
cause them to feel the change lightly; but guard against
frost.

NOVEMBER.

The busy time is not yet over; much has to be done, ©

more especially if planting and transplanting were omitted

NOVEMBER. 313

last month. Dahlias in the ground should be taken up
without delay, or there will be danger of losing them by
frost. Your attention should now be directed to plant-
ing Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses, Crown Imperials, and
other bulbous rooted plants. As a general rule, about the
middle of this month is the best time for planting bulbs that
flower in the spring, though it will do as late as Christmas
in mild weather. But this season of the year being liable
to change it will be best to plant when the ground is in a
fit state. It frequently occurs that bulbs are brought to
cities by Germans and Frenchmen, and sold at a low price
when the proper season for planting is over ; however cheap
those bulbs may appear still they are dear at any price.
Bulbs should be planted when you discover-in them a pro-
pensity to grow, for being kept out of the ground after that
time debilitates them, and they are soon worthless. These
remarks will also apply to those sold at séed stores. It will
be found better to give a fair price for bulbs at this time,
than to buy them at a low price at Christmas, or after. I
wish to make another remark, that is, these annual vendors
of Harlem bulbs, generally bring nothing but the refuse of
that market; for good bulbs will always bring a better price
than they can sell them at; but when you purchase ata
respectable seed store you may naturally expect good bulbs,
if purchased in time, as there is a reputation at stake,
whereas these exotic vendors have nothing to part with but
their bulbs.

Chinese Everblooming, and other pot Roses intended to
remain in the ground through the winter, should have old
manure iaid over their roots, and the bush tied up, enveloped
in straw, or be covered with a box. This protection will

27

314 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

save much trouble in keeping them in the house, and their
flowers will be much better the next summer. Hardy
Roses may still be pruned, and those that are intended to
be removed to another situation can now be moved with
safety, as also ornamental trees and shrubs; for transplant-
ing this month is the best in the year, sid less trimming
will be required than if planted in the spring. The Car-
nation family should be removed to their winter quarters
without delay. Ponies, Phloxes, and other perennials
may still be removed, the sooner the better. Manure such
beds and borders as stand in need of such food. Clear away
all dead flower stalks, and other rubbish; turn up your
beds, and make this department as neat aid clean as a
ble for the winter.

- THE PARLOR.

All pot plants will require air in mild weather, for if
they are well kept this month it will have wonderful
effect on their health, and enable them to bear their con-
finement through the winter with better facility. If not
well ventilated this month they will have a sickly hue, and
will seldom survive the month of March. Camellias will
require attention, and must be kept clean, and be watered
regular ; for if the roots be allowed to get dry and then
water is applied freely, rest assured their buds will droop,
and you will lose the beauty of their flowers for a season.
If the weather is mild never neglect to give them plenty
of air. Hydrangeas, Crape Myrtles, Pomegranates, and
other deciduous plants and shrubs may be placed in the
cellar, out of the reach of frost; also Orange and Lemon

a <2e

-~+¢

" NOVEMBER. . : B15

‘Trees; the two latter do not like to be kept in too damp a
piace, or their fruit will fall. Geraniums should be watered
“sparingly. Hyacinths and other bulbs intended for glasses
may still be buried in the ground, or in tanners’ bark in
the cellar, to form their roots. Seedling annuals intended
to flower in the house should be placed near the window,
to receive the benefit of sun and light. Chrysanthemums
should be liberally supplied with water, as their flowers
‘will now be in perfection. Repot Cinerarias and Chinese
Primroses; cease to water Gloxineas and Fuchsias. The
Primrose Bgulls should be protected. Foxgloves and Can-
terbury Bells, in pots, should be brought into the house,
with other biennials and perennials, for early blooming.
What was recommended last month and was not done,
should be attended to before being nipped with the frost.-

DECEMBER.

It is time to presume that the work of the flower garden
is drawing toa close for the season, and little now remains
to be done. You may still trim Roses in mild weather, —
and remove trees and shrubs so long as the ground is fit for
the operation: mulch them with old manure at the same
time, which will be of great advantage, if the winter should
be severe. Lay a protection of manure, nearly an inch
thick, on your Tulip and Hyacinth beds. In mild weather
manure such beds as need it, and turn them over. This
will have a tendency to kill the cut worm; still follow up

316 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.

the directions recommended last month, if not already done.
The Carnation family will require little or no water this
month ; particularly ,the sik 6 as there will be some
diner of frost.

THE PARLOR.

Chrysanthemums past flowering should have their flower
stems cut off, and the plants put away until spring. Plants
done growing should have no water given them. Begin
to lift Hyacinths and other bulbs buried in the ground, that
are intended to be flowered in glasses ; wash them clean and
be careful not to injure the root fibres ; place them in glasses
of clean water, and change it when fetid. -Bulbs in glasses
should be placed so that the crown only should touch the
water. Those in pots should also be lifted, the pots washed
clean, and placed in saucers near the window; those in
glasses should also be placed near the window, and be re-
moved to a warm part of the room at night, for if the water
be allowed to freeze the glasses will break: attention will
obviate this. Should any plants get frosted this month
remove them into a dark place until the frost is drawn out,
which is the only chance to recover them. The buds of
the Camellia will still continue to swell, and some will
begin to expand; if so, give them plenty of water, and
should the moss accumulate on the soil remove it an!
supply the place with fresh. This will make their bud
swell more freely.

~ ayy

A

‘

“BOTANICAL GLOSSARY.

ABRUPT, leaf pinnate, with an old or terminal leaflet.

ACUMINATE, having an open or awl-shaped point.

AGGREGATE, gathered together in fascicles or bundles.

ALTERN A'TE, branches, leaves, flowers, &C., pers at different
distances on the stem. .

ALVEOLATE, with cells, resembling the honeycomb.

ANTHER, that part of the stamen which contains the pollen.

APETALOUS, plants whose floral developmentis without petals.

APPRESSED, when the limb of a leaf is pressed close upon the
stem; or when hairs are laid flat upon the surface of a plant

_ they are said to be appressed.
ARMS, plants furnished with prickles and thorns, are said to be
“armed.

AROMATIC, sweet scented.

AROMA, odor, perfume, fragrance.

ARROW-FORM, shaped like an arrow-head, hind lobes acute saggi-
tate.

ARTICULATED, jointed, as in thi column or stem of the grass.

ASSURGENT, rising perpendicularly, without artificial support.

AWNS, the beard of barley is thus called. :

AXILLARY, growing out of the axile; leaves are axillary when.
they grow from the angle formed by the stem and branch. —

AXIS, a centre.

BARREN, producing no fruit, biettheatie stamens only.

BIENNIAL, a plant that produces stem and leaf one year, and dies
the next.

BIFID, cut half in two ect the summit, two-cleft.

BILA BIATE, corolla with two lips.

318 A GUIDE TO FLCRICULTURE.

BIPINNATED, twice pinnated.

BITERNATE, cut into three twice over.

BRACT, floral leaf; a leaf near the flower, different from the other
leaves of the plant.

BRACTEA, small leaves between the preper leaves of the plants
and the flower cap.

BULBS, bulbs are buds or the winter residence of future plants;
bulbous plants are perennials.

CADUCOUS, falling off early, like the poppy.

CALYX, a flower cup; in most plants it closes and supports the
carolla.

CAPILLARY, hair Tike.

CAPITATE, growing in the form of a head.

CAPSULE, the little chest or seed vessel which opens when the
seeds. are ripe.

CARPEL, is a division of the fruit, each carpel forming a distinct
cell

CAULINE, developed on the stem.

CELLU LAR. made up of cells or cavities

CERNUOUS, when a plant grows in a nodding, Me ania or pendu-
lous style.

CILIATED, eye lash haired; pordered with soft paralled hairs.

CILLATE, frin ged with parallel hairs.

COMCOSE, applied to a flower shoot, which is terminated - barren
hrar tea.

COMPOUND, several things in one; the Chrpsonihesea is a
compeund flower, so is the Dahlia, both formed of numerous
little flowers or florets.

CONNATE, situated opposite each other, and joined at the base.

CORDATE, heart-shaped; according to the commen notion of the

» heart.

COROLLA, usually enclosing the stamens-

CORY MB, a bunch of flowers when the footstalks proceed from dif-
ferent parts of the principal axis. and attains the same height.

CORY MROUS, formed after the manner of a corymb. ~

A BOTANICAL GLOSSARY. 319

CRENATE, scolloped, notches on the margin of a leaf pointing to-

_ wards neither apex or base.

CRENULATE, filled with notches.

CULM, the stem of grasses.

CUNEATE, wedge-shaped, broad and abrupt at the summit, and
tapering towards the base.

CUMBIFORM, having the form of a boat.

DECIDUOUS, plants that shed their leaves annually.

DECOMPOUND, leaves twice pinnated, and to a panicle when its
branches are also panicled.

DECUMBENT, lying down.

DENTICULATED, being finely toothed.

DIGITATE, a form smilar to the fingers of a man’s hand.

DIGECIOUS, when a plant bears male and female flowers individu-
ally, in different flowers.

DISTICHOUS, leaves of flowers placed in two opposite rows.

DISK, the whole surface of a leaf or top of a pacien flower, as
opposite to its rays.

ECOSTATE, without nerves or ribs.

EDIBLE, good when used for food, esculent.
EGLANDULOUS, without glands.

ELLIPTIC, nearly oval, between an ellipsis and a lance shape.
EMARGINATE, being slightly notched at the end.
ENSIFORM, formed like a sword, as the Iris.

ENTIRE, even and whole to the edge.

EXOTIC, plants brought from foreign countries.

FAMILIES, union of several genera into groups, at times synony.
mous with natural order.

FARINA, meal or flour; pollen is called farina.

FASTIGIATH, tapering to a narrow point, like a pyramid. '

FERTILE, pistillate and yielding fruit.

FIBRE, thread-like part.

FILAMENT, the slender, thread-like part of the stamen. -

FILIFORM, long and simple, like a thread.

FISTULOUS, hollow or tubular.

320 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

FLESHY, thick, pulpy.

FLEXUOUS, having a bent or wavy direction. -

FLORET, a little flower, part of a compound flower,

FOLIACEOUS, leafy.

FOOT-STALK, a term used instead of peduncle and natioté.

FRIABLE, easily crumbled, or reduced to a powder.

FRUCTIFICATION, the act of causing fruit, theory of germi-
- nation.

FUNICLE, the stalk which connects the ovule to the ovary.

FUSIFORM, radish or carrot shaped. .

GENERA, a family of plants agreeing in their flower and fruit.

GERM, the lower part of the pistil, afterwards the fruit.

GERMINATION, the swelling of seed, and the unfolding of its
embryo.

GRANDIFLORA, having large flowers.

GLABROUS, smooth.

GLANDULOUS, having small glands on the surface.

GLAUCOUS, smooth, of a sea-green color.

GLABOSE, round or spherical like the orange.

GLUME, a part of the floral envelopes of grass.

HASTATE, formed like the head of the ancient halbert,

HERB, a plant without a woody stem. :

HERBACEOUS, plants not woody.

HERBAGE, every part of a plant, except the root and fructificatious
part.

HISPID, when the spines on the surface of the leaf are not very
visible to the naked eye.

HOARY, covered over with white down.

HYBRID, a vegetable production, by the mixture of two species;
seeds of hybrid plants are not fertile.

IMBRICATED, lying over, like shingles of a roof.

IMPERFECT, wanting the stamens or pistils.

INDIGENOUS, native, growing wild in a country.

INFLEX, or INCURVED, folding inwards.

INVOLUCRE, where the bractee, or floral leaves, are set in a hed!

A BOTANICAL GLOSSARY. 321

INVOLUTE, a term applied to leaves, when rolled inward.
INTEGUMENT, a covering, an envelop.

JAGGED, irregularity, divided and subdivided.
JOINTS, knots or rings in culms, pods, leaves, &c.

LANCEOLATE, spear-shape, narrow, with both ends acute.

LEAFLET, a partial leaf, part of a compound leaf.

LEAF-STALK, petiole.

LEGUME, a pod; applied to the fruit of leguminous plants, such as

_ the Pea.

LILIACEOUS, corolla, with six petals starting from the base.

LINEAR, narrow, with parallel sides, as in most grasses.

LIP, the under petal in a labiate corolla.

LOBE, large division, or distinct portion of a leaf or petal.

LUNATE, crescent-shaped, like a half moon.

LYRATE, lyre-shaped; cut into many transverse segments, larger
extremity of the leaf, which is rounded.

MEMBRANOUS, in texture like a membrane, soft and supple.
MULTIFID, cut into-three, four, five, or more narrow divisions.
MULTIFLOROUS, many flowered.
-MURICATED, covered with sharp points.

NARCOTIC, having the power of producing sleep, as Opium.
NECTARY, that part of a flower which produces the honey.

OBOVATE, egg-shaped, with the narrow end towards the stem, or
| place of insertion.

OBTUSE, blunt, rounded, not acute.

OFFICINALIS, such plants as are kept for sale, as ; medicines,
esculent herbs, &c. ©

OPPOSITE, standing against each other on opposite sides of the
stem. ; -

GVAL, having the figure of an ellipse.

OVARY, that portion of the pistil which contains the ovicles,

OVATE, shaped like an egg cut lengthwise.

OVULES, little eggs; the rudiments of fruit or seed before its fer-
tilization.

322 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE,

PALMATED, cut into oblong segments, resembling a hand.

PANICLE, a loose, irregular bunch of flowers with subdivided
branches.

PANDURIFORM, fiddle-shaped, oblong at the extremities, and
small in the middle,

PAPPUS, the down of seeds, as in the Dandelion and Thistle, a
feathery appendage.

PARTITION, the membrane which aivide pericarps into cells,
called the desseximent.

PARTED, deeply divided; more than cleft.

PECTINATE, resembling the teeth of a comb, between fimbriated
and pinnatifid.

PEDICLE, the footstalk which supports a single flower.

PEDUNCLE, the common flower stalk, developed in the axil of a
non-radical leaf.

PENDENT, hanging down, pendulous.

PERENNIAL, lasting many years without perishing.

PERICARP, the vessel which contains the seed.

PERSISTENT, not falling off, permanent.

PETALS, the division of the corolla.

PETIOLB, the footstalk of the leaf.

PINNATE, a leaf is pinnate when the leaflets are arranged in two
rows on the side of a common petiole, as in the Rase.

PINNATIFID, cut in a pinnate manner; a simple leaf deeply
parted. :

PISTIL, the central organ of most flowers, consisting of germ,
style, and stigma. ;

PISTILLATE, having pistils but no stamens.

‘PITH, the spongy. substance in the centre of the stem and roots.

POD, dry seed-vessel, not pulpy, commonly applied to legumes and
siliques.

POLY ANDROUS, having many ‘stamens: sieeied upon the recep=
tacle.

POLYGAMOUS, having some flowers eat and others with
stamens only, or pistils only.

POLY MORPHOUS, changing, assuming many forms.

POLY PETALOUS, having many petals.

A BOTANICAL GLOSSARY. 323

PRATENSIS, growing in meadow lands.

PUBESCENT, covered with soft silky hairs.

PULP, the juicy, cellular substance of berries and other fruit.
PUNGENT, stinging or pricking. |

RRACEMES, when flowers are arranged round a filiform simple axis;
each particular flower being stalked. .

RADIATE, the lingulate florets around the margin of a compound
flower.

RADICLE, a term applied to leaves proceeding immediately from
the root, as in the Daisy; also the minute fibres of a root.

RAMIFEROUS, producing bunches.

RAMOSE, branching. —

RAMUS, a branch.

RAY, the outer margin of compound flowers.

RECEPTACLE, the end of a flower stalk: the base of whieh the
different parts of fructification are usually oo 7

REFLEXED, bent backwards.

RETICULATED, having the appearance of net work.

RETUSE, abruptly blunt at the end.

RINGENT, gaping. | "a

RUGOSE, rough, or coarsely wrinkled.

SAGITATE, shaped like an arrow head; triangular and very
much hollowed at the base.

SCAPE, a stalk which springs from the root, and supports the flow-

. ers and fruit, without leaves.

SCALES, any small development resembling minute leaves; also the
leaves of the involucre of compound flowers.

SEPAL, leaves or division of the calyx. .

SERRATED, edged with teeth like those of a saw.

SESSILE, said of leaves seated on the stem, without foot stalks.

SETAC EOUS, bearing some resemblance to the form of a bristle.

SILICLE, the small round pod of cruciform flowers.

SINUATE, undulating, or wavy.

SPADIX, flower stalk developed in a spatha.

SPATHA, a simple floral leaf, enclosing the whole inflorescence.

324 A GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE.
SPATULATE, large, obtuse at the end, tapering into the stalk at
the base. ys
SPECIFIC, belonging to a species only. "
SPIKE, a flower so called; seated upon a long rochis.
SPINDLE-SHAPED, thick at top, fusiform. 3
SPINOUS, full of prickles. os
STAMEN, the male organ of a flower. : oe
STAMINATE, having a stamen without pistils. Paik, A.
STELLATE, like a star. ee
STIGMA, the female organ of a flower.
STIPULE, a leafy appendage at the base of petioles, or leaves. _ |
STYLE, the part of the pistil between the stigma and the germ.
STRLA, small streaks, channels or furrows. aos
SUBULATE, awl-shaped, narrow, and sharp pointed.
SUCCULENT, juicy: also a pulpy leaf, juicy or not.

TANNIN, an astringent principle of plants, &c.

TENDRIL, a filiform or thread-like appendage of a climbing plant.

TERMINAL, ending, or at the top.

TERNATHE, consisting of three leaflets.

TISSUE, thin fabric or envelop composed of, or interwoven with |
small fibres.

TOPICAL, local, confined to a place.

TOOTHED, cut so as to resemble teeth.

TRIFID, cut into three.

TUBER, a solid fleshy knob.

TUBEROUS, thick and fleshy, containing tubers as the Dahlia.

TUMLID, swelling.

—

UMBELS, the round tuft of flowers, as produced by the Carrot.

UNARMED, opposed to spinous; free frem prickles. ‘

UNILATERAL, when the leaves are all turned one way, and aro
all on one side. ;

VARIETY, subdivision of species, sR by characters not ‘una
permanent.

A BOTANICAL GLOSSARY. 325

» P

VALVES, parts of seed-vessels into which they are separated; the

. leaves which form a glume or pa

VENTRICOSH, inflated.

VESICULAR, composed of vessels.

VERTICILLATE, whorled, heavy leaves, or flowers, in a circle

round the stem.

VILLOUS, closely covered with long hairs, so as almost to hide the
~ surface.

VIROSE, nauseous to the smell, poisonous,

VISCID, thick, glutinous, covered with adhesive moisture.

WINGS, two side petals of a papilionaceous flower.
WHORLS, where many parts are set round an axis in the same place.

———_ ~ *

ee

5% Py ‘ . agg? Fike

INDEX.

Achemenes,.......ss20000++00! ; Candytuft,. .veeeeeeeereee + +90
Acacia thispeda............. 57 | Canterbury Bell,..... .....-80
Sat ea lapnantey\'s »'. os .-2+.08 | Cardinal Flower,,..0..s.+++: 96
& era ot Mise BD} Carnations jojo... iso ine ottaewnisiele 97
Ee SMNPNA, Wass ees eee 58 | Carolina Pink, bits Gael tle OG
Agapanthus,....... ra oe 45 Catehily silene angelica, ..... 68
Agerathum, ........ sieisius, ee 46 | Labels), «1» gealaatare - 68
Amaranthus globe, ......... 43 Centurea, BRIE ste opentias ae:
HS 4. ier tigiag Be siis ieniey =n soy cena 77
“ tricolor,.... wel | China Pink,. bi ane eRe 103
Mitzcioan Cowslip,.......6.. A] | China;Primrose,,«:. + «js /aesie = 91
Anemone coronaria, .......- AT | Chrysanthemum, Chinese Sage
“ hortensis, ........ AT | Chrysanthemum, Ox Eye,....93

URINALS 9 ipo vc te rove w SUS le kT 10 be Golden Corn-
April, calendar for,.......+% 299 flogemeeiccs .'S <a.) ett S3
PREP PMMOBS eisai’ Ss. vise ces 44 | Chrysanthemum, tricolor yg ..93
Asters......2 Sh ne ree AA WS Meraria, waits Bea ode. She 71
August, calendar for, Sakasdl si 305 | Clematis Accueil wait acho H
Auricula,..... RPMI. aT E 53 | st. dlonida, werner, aches a1
Avalia pulchra, .. 060... 6s 52} Se, -SCAELOREA eRe = ciate 70
Cobaea scandens.....:. any. 74
Pralsaiet CMa yay cise e ss wae 62 | Coffee Tree, = egIaNS Spe ba Pte 68
“« noli-me-tangere..... 61 wis «ae ieanatee eae 95
eT a fete, wales ro 214
Beautiful Clarkia,........... 65 | Crape Myrtle,........ ne ees be
Beavtiful Nemophila,........ OR COE NS, s s.a& bs eyes wee neni 88
ae Se a 11 | Crown Imperial,...........- 8i
Bindweed C. arvensis, ....... 60 | Cuckoo-flower,..........00. 73
as SS ABATOR Sy 6 os k ss GD) PCG GS. have ro 0x Merorsadhe oc siete 27

ee Fe mMOree. os... 61

ParanicalGlesmary,<\. so. 603k | Dahlia... . .« wiles see sttlat 108
Peee PTE. te ee ko oi s.02 + <0 omdelion,... soawoumine. «2.2 115
es Rea Ke aoe ie odgaa 66 | December, calendar for,..... 315
adding). . << es)ss.. ose a0 | Double Daisy,. .. 00%... pete 107
MBACUAS, 6 eels ve Se Fees coon PEND PCRATE NS, vee ln wie woe sete oY |
Calla Kthiopiea, ...2..2..-.. 67 | February, calendar for,..... 287
Waleeolaria, « ..). je)... 5s vv.'.% 83 | Forget-me-not,"...2.% 2.205 .120

Campanula persicifolia,......94 | Foxglove,......ceceeeeeees 118

INDEX.
Puehsia,. . .%, «0 «.«efttite »e+++122) Lemon scented Verbena,....174
Lemon Tree,..... ee
Gardens, co. 5 civ’ cleteu enim LOE RET pis son's caer ole come l 3
Ganden Pinks, (..<)0. taaeones 125 | Lily of the Valley, .......- 172
General treatment of plants,. .35 | London Pride,...... tate nls 176
Geran, «5 A so esis clagageies 1295) Dagpyetit, ssc. wimietes a ae sen9 solo 171
Gladiolus byzanthus, ....... 132
“ cardinalis,........ 132] Management of Plants in the
& COMmMUMNIs, «. rene 132 PArlON 4 so cgegaatn eS eile 278
Ke floribundis,....... 132 | Manuring,... <2. » ieee 24
AGL ORUMIA, sgn jeico se. 5 ee RS 133 | March, calendar for,......+..289
- "|. Martynia fragrans): ssipemme 181
Heliotrope, ....... » Si wtiatekaee 139 | Marvei of Peru,.......- nl So
Hibiscus, African,.......+.. 138 | May, calendar for, ......... 295
MTOM yl OGhes oie iele S oieheie aia losis 136 | Marigold chrysanthemum, ..188
Hlomeysuckle, spec ct stavets «on 143 te grandiflora, ...... 187
Hotebed, i. om <a00 ARS ERE 14 “ officinalis, .......188
ERY AC INE jrerereuorterntonya SM cel ne 146 Ee pluvialis; ....... 189
FLV ACINENING 0. «ye apielniele ts 144 Sf. WIS@OSa-G8 cn eers 188
Eby brid iZinpy » ss; sates cise okie .37] Mesembryanthemum, ...... 184
Py d ranged cag ale teieiaels SiS 140 | Mignionette, ....... ee egnanmess 182
-| Moccasin Plamtgigiek «= on oh 177
Tee Plantjocs.t.. . gee... 153] Monkey one ee mre 186
Indian Cress T. azureum, ...156 Monk's Hood napellus,..... 190
gga ** ¢ MAjOF,... +. 155 venustum,..... 191
es i PMO area 155 ee pyramidal,..... 191
Ink for Zine Labels,........ 154 és versicolor, ..... 191
Tpomaa coccina, ........... 157| Myrtle communis,......... 179
te orandiflora,.........198 * tomentosasieleiiaus wee 179
Oe ais LOAD, waht RRe ARM SORE 158 *« Jucalia pinciana, ....180
Ismene Amances, sie cae HO 150
PIS WE TSICA ys ciara mo peneiamenniee 151 | Narcissus daffodil, ......... 194
Py REPNIN TN weal aa «so sole 152 | grand primo citro-
f. SUSIANG,» «octal een fol nienne,..... . 193
© , jonquilicees tees 194 .
Jacobean Lily). slectarts is is 159 “e orientalis, < cides 193
January, calendar for,...... 285 iy poetients; <2 Juin 195
Papas, Lily, sie, «iors cous oS aee 166— i pseudoyeie 2 sae. ee 194
Sapam ROSe,. 6.2 ceases. jo EOL es tazettarss: Jf... aiae 193
Jasmine grandiflora,........ 167 | November, calendar for, ....312
OC MGMACIIFANE 5. 5, clint salt ae 167
June, calendar for, ......... 298 | October, calendar for, ...... 310
July, Pe, Susie. DEIR 302 Oleander, .... «<2. sus eee 197
Orange Tree, ¢ cies esse meee 199
Tamrestinits, oo. .% «0 cee ee 176 (Oxlip,...¢....+.2h<a0 eee 214
Biavenderys\, soavde's ~waawse 169 ,
Leaf, growing from,.... ... 283 | Peony whitlegii,...........218

iss x

INDEX. |

Rose Campion, .......... + 226

Peony fragrans,......... is BEF
lo: ne 217
OPW, Danks, 2. «os... 220 | Scarlet Lychnis,........... 253
« M. papavera,........ 220 | Scarlet Valerian,........... 247
Cs ARs oe 209) |-Sehizanthyrs, ... i cadens cee 244
Passion Flower actinia,..... 204s), Seed Sowing;.....Mui.ciees 17
ss cerulea, ..... 204 | Select list of plants for parlor
te middletoniana,204 CWlPAe, 5... Ase HOM os 282
“ kermesina, ...204| September, .......0.....5- 307
Perea Gow... base nge sien ss > 12| Side Silidle,. 5... Eo ere 254
Jae 2 ON ene 220) Siiap Dragon, ..csiscsees cs 252
Pheasant’s Be snow ov eral's o's 200) Snow Drop,. ins... Awe 948
ht os: Sa a 216| Star of Bethlehem, ........ 246
Pimpernel arvensis, ........ 205 | St. John’s Wort,........00% 250

“ carulea,.... 0s a8 2N6 | Sunflower,.........e0-- . 251

“ fruiticosa, ........ AM SiaeSt Beas. sixiwra'n, eal euler cane ee 253

“ HatHOlia, yes o's oe 207 | Sweet William,........... , 249

“ monelli,. 25.» .. 207 < ;

“ femelle 2G. .s 207 | Tassel Flower, ..........4. 269
UL Ge a ae OT RC ora avar ‘ghar tei ae ee aan 266
[a0 ge eee 922| Ten Week Stock, .: aye dei 256
Pemesranate, At. .c..... 2084 Virer Flowery, «\sjc01'. 0.506 0% » 262
0 ne eee 24 | Transplan@ig@... 6.00 cece: 22
Portulaca thellasoni,........ 2024 Tuberose@agae «oc. eek cans 959

LG eee ee SU | TPO Siren Sats < s'e a-e oie 264
Primrose Family,....... seals
Pyramidal Bell-flower,. .....225 | Variegated Euphorbia, ...... 270

Velvet Cockscomb,......... 270
en ore eaSal | Verbenas 3502 fSShis. aes 271
Mater OMIM, cee ace. ee 240
Rocket eles wh Bestest as Oe ie Oe 275
ee eter. ae poe ss « 228 | Wash to destroy insects..... 277

eMC Scop se! hb 0 Mine's eis OS | Weiiite: fail yi 2 oss 6 eek SS alee 272
SADE yoiaiale anes s\a uo sie 239 Winged Ammobium, obey 872

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rely upon receiving the same in the shortest possible time.

A very large and fine assortment of English and American
Stationery. Blank Books of every variety made to order. Banks,
public offices, merchants, and others, supplied on the most reasona-
ble terms.

We invite the particular attention of country Booksellers and
Merchants, Members of the Bar, public, private, and social Libra-
ries, and all who may desire to purchase Books or Stationery, to
call and examine our stock and prices.

a ware

‘8. 8. JACKSON,
NUBSEBYIMAN ANID PLOBISL
Three miies below Cincinnati, Ohio.,

Begs to inform his Friends and the Public generally that he
KEEPS FOR SALE

FRUIT IWEES,
GRAPE VINES,

Strawberry iPlamtes, Currants
Raspberries, Evergreens,
Ornamental Trees and Shrubs,
GREEN HOUSE AND HOT HOUSE

PLANTS,
BULBS AND TUIBIEIRS,

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS,
And 300 Varieties of the

CUOICEST AND NEWEST ROSES.

All Trees, Plants, &c., delivered in Cincinnati, FREE OF
CHARGE, and packed so as to carry safely to any part of the
country.

Having no Agent in Cincinnati, all orders directed to 8. S. JACK-
SON, Nurseryman and Florist, Cincinnati, Ohio, will be promptly
attended to.

The Omnibus runs past the Nursery three times a day.

Refer to R. BUCHANAN, Esgq., and JACOB STRADER, Esq.

"SPRING GARDEN NURSERY,
A. H. ERNST, |
Near Gincamati. :

The Proprietor of this extensive establishment respectfully invites
the public attention to his assortment of Trees, Shrubs, &c., with
every assurance that no expense has been spared to make his selec-
tion one of the best in the Western country, embracing

APPLES, APRICOTS,
PEARS, PEACHES, QUINCES, €

Cherries, Plus, Nectarines,
MEDLARS, &G.

Also, Grape Vines, Currants, Gooseberries, Raspberries, and
Strawberries, all of the most approved kinds. His shrubberies
embrace fine shade Trees, for side walks and lawns, and his Ever-

greens consist of

Red Cedar, Balsam Fir, Swedish Juniper
White Cedar, Norway Spruce, Willow, —
American Arbor Vite, White Pine. Box,
Chinese do Yellow Pine, Hemlock, &c.

Not having any Agent in the city, the Predeeeee solicits persont
wishing to purchase to visit his establishment, being confident more
satisfaction would be given than those sold in the city, as his trees
and shrubs are healthy, and of vigorous growth. -To those persons
ata distance, or others, can address him through the Post Office;
and every pains will be taken to render satisfaction, and their pack-
ages will be shipped, or sent to-any part of the city.

A. H. ERNST, Proprietor.

_ OMNIBUSES run constantly from the public landing to within — 3
a few hundred yards of Spring Garden. Bt

TL

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