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HINTS ABOUT MEN'S DRESS

HINTS ABOUT MEN'S DRESS.

HINTS ABOUT MEN'S DRESS

RIGHT PRINCIPLES ECONOMICALLY APPLIED

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A NEW YORK CLUBMAN

NEW TORK

D. Appleton & Co., 1,3,85 Bond Street

1888

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Copyright, i883, By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.

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CONTENTS.

Page

Introduction 7

I. The First Steps that Count . . 9

II. Under-clothing 20

III. Shirts ...... 30

IV. Suits of Clothes . . . . .37 V. The Care of Clothes . . 51

VI. Hats and Neckwear . . . .57

VII. Jewelry and Gloves .... 70

VIII. How to Branch Out a Little . . 74

HINTS ABOUT MEN'S DRESS,

Introduction.

It is to the credit of Americans, espe- cially to those of the present younger gen- erations, that they generally do the best they can to dress and appear well, so that they may excite no remark ; and to be neat in their personal habits, so that they may not be offensive to refined tastes and crit- ical eyes. Their efforts are fairly well re- warded, but the struggle is made under many disadvantages. Their forefathers, im-

8 Introduction.

mediate and remote, have not been able to give them much information about dress or manner, having always been too busy to think about the minor things of life ; and thus, scattered throughout the country, in parts far away from large cities, ambitious boys have had a hard time to learn just how gentlemen do dress and act in the con- ventional phases of life.

To help such youths and men to accom- plish their laudable purposes more easily, the following pages have been prepared. But it is taken for granted in all that is written that the reader is honest, gentle, generous, brave, and wise. Else what he learns herein will benefit him little in his efforts to be a true gentleman.

The First Steps that Count.

Baths — Shaving one's self — Dressing the hair — Care of the teeth and nails — The use of perfumes unwise.

There is more reason in the English- man's morning " tub " than most people give him credit for. It is not mere affecta- tion. A nice Anglo-Saxon in England or America understands that cleanliness is the prime requisite of health and of a gentle- man, and that for obvious reasons a man who does not indulge in frequent baths will not be an acceptable person in good society.

10 tfhe First Steps that Count.

It is no little trouble to keep clean, but it pays, and is the basis of all decency. There are various ways of doing it, some more convenient than others. A tub-bath in one's own room is an awkward arrange- ment, and a sponge-bath scatters too much water ; while to fill the stationary tub takes time and watching. Most convenient of all is the shower-bath. If this is arranged for hot and cold water, it requires only a mo- ment's patience to get a shower of the proper temperature, and not much longer to take a good bath and a thorough wash with castile soap. Not every one can stand the shower well, and delicate men should be careful not to take it too cold or too often ; but the average man may enjoy a bath of this kind every morning without harm to

fhe First Steps that Count. 11

his health. One should wipe himself thor- oughly until perfectly dry. It is not neces- sary to have a towel as rough as a corn-cob, nor to keep up the rubbing till the skin is blood-red, as many books about health in- sist. While the tepid bath is agreeable and harmless, the bather should constantly try to lower the temperature, provided it does not get so cold as to leave him in a chill. After a bath the operation of shaving is in order. Every man ought to shave him- self. So doing not only saves money and time, but it is cleaner. It is not agreeable to a person of refinement to have a barber pawing his face ; neither does a gentleman enjoy the society of the barber-shop while " waiting his turn." The haughty man who would not allow the barber to turn aside

12 "The First Steps that Count.

his long Roman nose (although it was gently done), nor to pull down the corners of his mouth, did not deserve the credit he claimed for not tolerating familiarities from any one. He should have shaved himself at home, and manipulated his own features. The care of razors may be a little diffi- cult at first, but the knack of sharpening them is easily learned, and, aside from the advantage of cleanliness, if one has a tender skin, he can shave himself more easily than any one else can do it for him. Of course, for trimming the beard — the chin-whisker is not tolerated now — the mustache, and the hair, it is necessary to endure a barber ; but under no circumstances should he be al- lowed to put anything on the hair except cold water. Nothing is so objectionable as

tfhe First Steps that Count. 13

the smell of cheap perfumery. A word here as to perfumery in general. Don't use it. It was formerly employed, according to some authorities, by people who did not take baths, to disguise that omission; and, from this point of view, the use of it to-day is a suspicious circumstance.

In combing one's hair, which comes along about this time in the order of dress- ing, the principal point to be considered is where to part it. There is little doubt that it ought to be parted in the middle. So doing adds to the symmetry of the face, and it is almost the invariable practice in all countries, the United States excepted. In the noted public art-galleries of Europe one rarely or never sees an antique statue with its chiseled hair parted on the side.

14 <The First Steps that Count

The line of division is in the middle where there is any line at all. Candor compels the admission that in many cases there is no parting ; the front locks fall over the forehead in an easy, graceful, and natural way, as much like the modern " bang " as possible, except that the hair is not trimmed off evenly. This is especially noticeable in the statues of Roman emperors which may be seen in the Louvre ; and the head of the young Augustus, so well known, has a de- cided bang. Yet there is nothing effeminate about these old statues. It is not intended here to say anything in defense of the bang, which, as it exists on a man in modern times, is a monstrous spectacle. It is merely de- sired to point out that, if precedent is need- ed for letting the hair divide naturally on

Tfo First Steps that Count. 15

the top of the head, it can easily be fur- nished. For many years in America to part one's hair down close by the ear was con- sidered the proper thing ; but the fashion of parting it in the middle is sensibly begin- ning to prevail, and after a short trial one will soon become convinced that a part in the middle is vastly more becoming than a part on either side. Of course, if the hair is thin on top, this fact may be disguised a little by a parting on the side. If you ob- ject to a dividing-line on top because it is not seen there on most of the men you know, make the parting at least as high as you can stand it. It is the fashion now, and probably will be for a long time, to have the hair cut rather close at the back and on the sides. It is not parted behind, as was once

16 tfhe First Steps that Count

done. The growth on the neck should never be shaved, but merely clipped close with the scissors. If the hair is left a little long on top, it parts more easily. A closely cropped head is too suggestive of the prize-ring to be advised. It is permissible sometimes to put a little cosmetique on each side of the parting, so that the hair will remain in place. Avoid frequent shampooing, as it tends to make the hair come out. The hair should be washed in cold water, with- out soap, during the morning bath. It is held by some that washing the head in a basin containing a few drops of ammonia in the water helps to keep the head free from dandruff. This may be so. At any rate, the hair must be kept so clean that there is never any dandruff on the coat-

'The First Steps that Count. 17

collar. It is well enough to comb the head once a week with a fine-tooth comb before washing it.

It is not necessary to dwell upon the importance of cleaning the teeth. They should be brushed twice a week with tooth- powder, and every day with soap and water. They should be carefully watched by a dentist in whom you have confidence. No money is ever better spent by a young man than that paid out for having his teeth prop- erly attended to, and filled when needed. It is laying up a store of enjoyment for a later period in life, when eating is about the only pleasure left.

The hands always need careful attention. They can only be kept clean around the nails by the frequent use of a nail-brush,

18 The First Steps that Count

soap, and hot water. Castile soap is the best to use ; it leaves no odor, and does not chap the hands. If the soap furnished at the basin in the office is too cheap, keep a piece of a better quality for private use in your desk. The finger-nails in some countries are allowed to grow very long, and are cut to a point. Indeed, long, pointed nails were at one time supposed to indicate a gentleman, or at least a person who did not work, for if a man performs manual or clerical labor his nails are sure to be broken. In this country nearly every one works, and the claw -like fashion in trimming the finger- nails does not prevail. But an American gentleman keeps his finger-nails cut pretty short (about even with the end of the flesh), with just a suspicion of a point. The cal-

'the First Steps that Count.

19

lous bits of skin around the sides ought to be removed with sharp, curved nail-scis- sors, which can be bought at almost any cutlery-store. It isn't necessary in America to show by the hands that one does no work. It is simply required of a gentle- man that his hands shall show proper care.

II.

Under-clothing.

The best to buy — Number ot suits — Silk under- clothes— Shoes — Patent-leathers.

Any one who is careful about his per- sonal habits gives spme thought to his un- der-clothes. They really ought to be white (unless one has a fancy that red flannel is good for rheumatism), simply because white shows that it is soiled the moment it is so. The man who wears dark under-clothes lays himself open to the suspicion that he doesn't care about cleanliness so much as he cares about saving washing and trouble by means

Under-clothing. 2 1

of garments that do not show dirt. If a man takes a bath every morning, three suits of under-clothing for the winter are enough. He can change twice a week, provided the washerwoman is prompt. In summer more suits are required, frequent changes being necessary on account of perspiration. One should change his under-clothing in summer often enough to prevent the slightest odor from attaching itself to him.

Silk under-clothing is not really essential for elegance or comfort. It is agreeable to wear it with evening dress. The trousers hang better when worn over silk drawers, woolen garments having a tendency to make the trousers stick to the legs. This is true of all trousers when worn over woolen, but a gentleman only needs to give attention to

22 Under- clothing.

this point in the case of dress-trousers. If a man can not have one pair of thin, and one of thick, silk drawers (for summer and win- ter), let him prefer a thin pair. These can be worn in winter over a moderately heavy- weight pair of woolen drawers, and the set of the trousers thereby much improved. There is nothing ridiculous or silly in devices like this from the right point of view. Flannels and silk under-wear ought to be washed by some one who knows how, lest they should shrink. It is desirable, of course, that under-clothing should fit pretty snugly, especially the drawers.

There was a time when it was consid- ered the proper thing for gentlemen to pinch their feet in small shoes, but the sensi- ble rule nowadays is to have shoes large

Under-clothing. 23

enough to be comfortable. An easy shoe not only feels better, but looks better. A man ought, if possible, to have two pairs of every-day shoes, so that he can change them frequently. Each pair, worn alternately, lasts longer than if worn steadily. The warmth and the dampness of the foot rot the leather unless it gets a chance to dry. There is no greater comfort, so far as his feet are con- cerned, which a man can have when he comes home from business, than to change his shoes and socks. Socks, by the way, should be white, for the same reason that under-clothing should be white. The best kind of shoe to buy, from an economical point of view, is ordinary French calf-skin, with medium soles, and black or very dark- blue cloth tops, which button. A shoe of

24 Under-clothing.

this kind nicely polished can be worn with any suit of clothes — for business or for dress. Low shoes can only be worn through a small part of the summer or in the house, and are apt to be very uncom- fortable on a rainy day. They are not an economical investment, even in sum- mer, because one has to have over-gaiters with them if they are to be worn on all occasions with comfort. Black over-gait- ers are the best to buy. Colored ones should harmonize in tone with the trousers, but at best they are open to the charge of being conspicuous. It is, therefore, pos- sible to avoid all questions of taste by se- lecting black cloth over - gaiters. They should always button on the outside of the foot. With low shoes and no gaiters dark

Under-clothing. 25

stockings are required — not black, but a dark brown or drab.

Low shoes also let in much dust to the feet and ankles, and they give the ankle no support. It is best, if one can, to have a pair of patent-leather shoes, buttoned, black -cloth tops, and comparatively thin soles, to wear with evening dress. They do not lose their polish, even with wearing rubbers, and are, perhaps, a little more ele- gant in appearance than ordinary shoes. By having them made with plain, cloth tops and medium soles, they can be worn with business suits when they have begun to be a little shabby. Care should be taken, how- ever, to keep the edges of the soles of pat- ent-leather shoes well blacked and polished. Otherwise they have a slovenly look. There

26 Under-clothing,

is a black varnish sold by saddlers for paint- ing horses' hoofs to give them a polished look, which is excellent to put on the edges of the soles of patent-leather shoes. It should be applied with a slender brush after the shoes have been thoroughly cleaned. Doubtless there are other preparations for this purpose, but it is questionable if they are any better. Broken spots in patent- leather may also be touched up with it.

No one any longer wears boots, the tops of which come up around the leg under the trousers, and laced shoes labor under the disadvantage of becoming easily untied. Besides, shoe-laces soon wear shabby and rusty, and are apt to make callous places on the top of the foot. "Pumps" — that is, low, patent-leather slippers — are little used

Under-clothing. 27

in these days, even by the luxuriously rich. They require black silk stockings and neat black ribbon bows on the instep, so that al- together they have an effeminate air that is not admired. Above all, they are hard to dance in. For dancing on a waxed floor, of course, thin-soled shoes are best, while on crash and carpet soles of medium thickness are better. If one does wear " pumps " to a dinner or a dance despite all warnings, he should not try to walk to the place of en- joyment, but drive there. To wear this kind of shoe in the uncertain climate of the northern United States is to court a bad cold.

It is not pleasant to black one's own shoes, but shoes must be blacked, and well blacked, too. Much of one's appearance

28 Under-clothing.

turns on this point ; for a gentleman, it used to be said, was indicated by the con- dition of his shoes and his hat. Any kind of blacking may be used, but it should be moistened with fresh, clean water. Black carefully the heels, under the insteps, and around the edges of the soles. It is a good plan to black one's shoes at night before going to bed, and in the morn- ing, after putting them on, to rub them up a bit. The polish will then be bright- er, and will last longer for having had a chance to dry. With most men of fastidi- ous taste, the first luxury to be indulged in, when it can be afforded, is to hire a boy to black their shoes. This is a wise and genteel indulgence. But it is well to have one's shoes blacked in the privacy of

Under-clothing. 29

one's own kitchen or apartment even then. Never perch yourself up in those boot- blacks' chairs so conspicuous all over New York at street corners. To do so advertises to all the world that you usually black your own shoes, but that this time you are in- dulging in an extravagance. A little com- putation just here may give a hint : One pair of shoes blacked every day for five cents costs thirty-five cents a week. In two months that would amount to two dollars and eighty cents, which is, in most places, as much as the difference in price between patent-leathers and fine calf-skin. But the life of a shoe is longer than two months. The inference, therefore, is decidedly in favor of patent-leather shoes, even on the score of economy.

III. Shirts.

For full-dress — A style that never should be worn — Collars and cuffs.

The very fastidious man who can afford it, puts on a clean white shirt every day, and a shirt, too, which has collar and cuffs attached to it. His principle is, that a man can't be too careful as to the cleanliness of his linen, and that a shirt can't be worn but once without the collar and cuffs being soiled. But there are not very many men so fastidious as this in this country. Most Americans seem to think that if they change

Shirts. 31

their shirts every other day it is a good deal of a concession to the washerwoman. They generally put on a fresh collar and cuffs every morning, and then consider that they are neatness itself. For a man who is very particular about baths, and hasn't much active work to do, a shirt every other day and clean collar and cuffs every day answer very well. Collars and cuffs, it is to be feared, are really made separate from shirts to save washing, because it is cheaper to wash them than to wash a whole shirt. So, naturally, when a man wants to be very particular about his dress, he wears shirts with collars and cuffs at- tached, and changes once a day at least. It is not worth while to discuss further, per- haps, the number of this kind of garment

32 Shirts.

which should be worn weekly. If one is only determined to keep himself neat, the number will regulate itself.

There is, however, an abomination which must be mentioned here, and that is a shirt which opens behind. It is really only one remove from the " dickey," than which noth- ing could be lower. It is made thus so that the bosom will not get soiled, and with the idea that it can be worn much longer with- out showing dirt. Of course, this is a vio- lation of the idea that it is a gentleman's object to be clean and not to save washing. Paper collars, celluloid collars, and every- thing in this line save linen collars, are under the same ban. So in regard to shirts it comes to this : A man of limited means who wants to be dressed well should have

Shirts. 33

at least one or two shirts, with collars and cuffs attached, which open in front. These he reserves to wear with his dress-suit, and he never wears one more than once without washing. It won't do at all to have a gen- tleman in full-dress whose linen is open to the suspicion of not being perfectly immacu- late as to cleanliness. For every-day use in the office, as has been said, most Americans wear shirts to which they button collars and cuffs. Provided that collars, cuffs, and shirts are frequently changed, this custom may be endured. Some very particular men now have their shirts open all the way down, so that the hair will not be dis- arranged after it has been brushed by put- ting the shirt over the head. There is a good deal of the Miss Nancy about this. 3

34 Shirts.

It is sufficient for any man to have his shirts made of plain linen, without dots or embroidery on the bosom. Those are ex- tras. With plain linen, which fits well and is well washed and ironed, one can go any- where in the civilized world with a con sciousness that his shirt is all right. The bosoms of shirts should be made to fasten with regular shirt-studs, and not with imita- tion studs attached to a screw. The latter are a proper accompaniment to a shirt that opens behind.

As to the shape of collars, a young man with a fine, well-shaped neck may wear a turn-down collar; but, since the fashion is for standing collars, he thereby lays himself open to the charge of vanity. If one's neck is long and thin, with a marked protuber-

Shirts. 35

ance, called an Adam's apple, a tall collar coming pretty closely together in front, but having the points turned back a little, looks best. It should, however, be made straight, to be turned back after it is on. Collars with long turned -down points are rather pronounced for a man who does not dress in the extreme of fashion. In purchasing collars, pains should be taken not to buy those which look as if they were sewed on a band, for, unless this band is carefully cov- ered by the cravat, it makes itself seen. Let each side of the collar be of one piece of linen. It is well to remember that the num- bers on the collars do not always indicate their real length. Thus, 15^ is often only 15J inches long, but sometimes 16 inches long. If you have a collar that sets well,

34

Shirts.

It is sufficient for any man to have his shirts made of plain linen, without dots or embroidery on the bosom. Those are ex- tras. With plain linen, which fits well and is well washed and ironed, one can go any- where in the civilized world with a con sciousness that his shirt is all right. The bosoms of shirts should be made to fasten with regular shirt-studs, and not with imita- tion studs attached to a screw. The latter are a proper accompaniment to a shirt that opens behind.

As to the shape of collars, a young man with a fine, well-shaped neck may wear a turn-down collar ; but, since the fashion is for standing collars, he thereby lays himself open to the charge of vanity. If one's neck is long and thin, with a marked protuber-

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Shirts.

35

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ance, called an Adam's apple, a tall collar coming pretty closely together in front, but having the points turned back a little, looks best. It should, however, be made straight, to be turned back after it is on. Collars with long turned -down points are rather pronounced for a man who does not dress in the extreme of fashion. In purchasing collars, pains should be taken not to buy those which look as if they were sewed on a band, for, unless this band is carefully cov- ered by the cravat, it makes itself seen. Let each side of the collar be of one piece of linen. It is well to remember that the num- bers on the collars do not always indicate their real length. Thus, 15^ is often only 15J inches long, but sometimes 16 inches long. If you have a collar that sets well,

36 Shirts.

use it as a pattern, and when you buy, meas- ure your purchase (or have the salesman do it) so as to get those of exactly similar length. The washerwoman should be cau- tioned, also, not to stretch collars in wash- ing. Insist, too, that your collars and cuffs shall be very stiff, and tell the woman, when they come home from the wash yellow or brown on the inside edges, that this color is there because the cuffs and collars were not washed clean. It will add force to your complaints if you always pay your washer- woman promptly.

IV.

Suits of Clothes.

The advantage of a dress-suit — Trousers and waistcoats — The business suit — The extra pair of trousers — The principle as to color — Overcoats.

To dress well a man need not have so many different suits of clothes as is gener- ally supposed, particularly if he knows how to take care of what he buys. Outside of large cities, one doesn't need a dress-suit (or evening dress, as it is, perhaps, more ele- gantly called) very often, although, as a mat- ter of fact, dress-suits are much more worn now, even in small places in the country,

38 Suits of Clothes.

than they were two or three years ago. But, if one does not need a dress-suit often, when he does need it, he needs it badly. It is one of the best investments in a social way that a young man with social aspirations can make. When he wants to go out in the evening, and has on a dress-suit, a nicely fitting shirt, with a white lawn tie and neat shoes, he may enjoy the satisfaction of know- ing that he is properly dressed for any so- ciety in the world. Dress-suits are not ex- pensive, because they last for years. For- merly, they were made of black broadcloth, but of recent years a narrow, black, diag- onal, or even a fine homespun is much used. Most suits of to-day, in London and New York, are probably made of this fine black diagonal; and, if one should get a suit of

Suits of Clothes. 39

that kind (1888), he would, for several sea- sons at least, always be fashionably dressed when he wore it, and need not be annoyed even if ultra-fashionable people who buy dress-suits every year should appear in one made of homespun. Almost any tailor — even in a small town — should be able to cut and make a dress-suit.

Evening-dress coats do not vary much from year to year, except in the length of the tails — not a notable variance. Men ad- vanced in life do not often have the lapels faced with silk. Any one below forty may have them faced with that material. Trous- ers (never say pants) with dress-suits are never made tight, even if the fashion is to have closely fitting trousers for every-day wear. About nineteen inches at the knee

40 Suits of Clothes.

has been a good width for a number of years, and probably will be so for some years to come. But there is no fashion so easy to find out about as whether trousers are made wide or narrow. One may have black silk braid down the side seam or not, just as he pleases. The fashion in these suits varies most in regard to the cut of the opening of the waistcoat (never say vest). Formerly it was cut in a V shape, but lately it is cut like a U. Three buttons are enough on a waistcoat.

As regards the time of appearing in a dress-suit, it may be said that it should never be put on before six o'clock, which is the earliest possible dinner-hour for people who dine in the evening. It can be worn at any evening entertainment, no matter what its

Suits of Clothes. 41

character may be, whether many or few people are present. In fact, a man who has a dress-suit never needs to wear any- thing else in the evening to be properly dressed in society. In large cities men rarely walk in the street in their dress-suits without wearing a very thin overcoat, even in summer. This is to avoid being con- spicuous.

Thus, having the proper garment — a dress-suit — for social occasions in the even- ing, all a man need feel obliged to provide besides is a suit for business and after- noon entertainments. One suit with care will answer both purposes, viz., a black cut- away, either of diagonal or of the slightly rough cloth now much used (referred to earlier in this chapter), with waistcoat of the

42 Suits of Clothes.

same, and a pair of trousers, not light-col- ored, but " lightish," with modest stripe or check. Obviously, a suit of this kind can be worn at business, and in it a man is well enough dressed for an afternoon wedding, reception, or tea, or any other festive oc- casion where a dress-suit should not be seen. But care must be taken to keep such a suit nice. It is well also to have an extra pair of trousers to put on after busi- ness hours. They are, indeed, almost indis- pensable if one is not to be seen with baggy knees. There will be something said later on in regard to the different kinds of neck- tie to wear with a cutaway to make it more or less dressy.

To some extent in some parts of this country, a Prince Albert or double-breasted

Suits of Clothes. 43

frock-coat, with light trousers, is worn at afternoon entertainments ; but this is not necessary. A cutaway is just as fashionable and becoming, and can always be worn when a frock-coat would answer ; but a frock-coat should never be seen at busi- ness, or anywhere else earlier than late after- noon— say, 4 or 4.30. In Paris, a coat of this kind is considered by Frenchmen as the only proper thing a gentleman can appear in from 4 p. M. until dinner. No such fash- ion prevails rigorously either in England or America.

Something has been said of the material of cutaways. A black diagonal, with not too wide a stripe, has been the approved material for years, and doubtless will con- tinue to be for a long time ; and, if a man

44 Suits of Clothes.

has a coat of this stuff, he need not worry if he occasionally rubs against coats made of rough, black homespun cloth, much worn during 1888. Homespun is hardly likely to last in popular favor, because it shows wear. Of course, a diagonal coat after it gets shiny must be worn only in the office. It is well to have (if it can easily be afforded), in addi- tion to a cutaway suit and a dress-suit, a sack-suit. But the last named can be dis- pensed with. If one is ordered, however, it should be a very dark blue or black Scotch tweed, or homespun. It will easily last two summers if one gets an extra pair of trousers at the same time. The underlying principle of this purchase, as of all economical buying of clothes, is to buy dark-colored material. A dark suit can be worn on any kind of a day, and

Suits of Clothes. 45

early or late in the season ; but light clothes are in good taste only when the sun shines and the weather is very bright. Trousers, particularly, should be modest in color and pattern. Never, under any circumstances, unless you are actually deformed, have pad- ding put in the shoulders of coats, or any- where else. Square shoulders are only ad- mirable when they are natural.

If a man is much about his house, he ought to have a second-best sack-coat to lounge in. It isn't necessary to have a smoking -jacket or any fancy garment of that kind ; yet a Norfolk jacket or unlined cloth coat is most useful. Nothing wears out one's clothes more than lounging about a house. It is also well in winter to don a second-best coat under an overcoat. Tak-

46 Suits of Clothes.

ing on and off a top-coat wears the other badly.

In the summer, for leisure hours in the morning, or the early afternoon, the ordi- nary " blazer," so often seen now, and white trousers, worn at cricket or tennis, together with a soft flannel shirt, are very conven- ient; but nothing beyond the cutaway suit and a dress-suit are absolutely necessary to a man who must economize. Too much stress can not be put upon the fact that a dress-coat for evening wear and a cutaway suit for all other occasions, with proper kind of hat and shoes, are all that a man really needs to be properly dressed, except so far as overcoats are concerned.

Unless a man is very tough, it is neces- sary in the climate of the Northern United

Suits of Clothes. 47

States to have two overcoats — one for mid- winter, made of rough cloth, and one for the cold days of fall and spring, made of diagonal or plain stuff. Both should be of a dark color — very dark blue or brown is the best — and made as sack overcoats. Overcoats, with capes and long tails and other variations, are all liable to go out of fashion before they are worn out, and then they do not look well; but the plain sack overcoat, neatly brushed, always is present- able, and is a perfectly proper outside gar- ment for all occasions. It is a luxury to have overcoats lined with silk. At any rate, the sleeve linings should be of silk or satin. If care is taken to keep the buttons and button- holes of these garments in good repair, they will not become shabby for a long time. It

48 Suits of Clothes.

may be remarked here, in regard to coats of all kinds, that it is not well to have them bound with silk braid. It wears shiny, or wears off entirely, and makes the coat look shabby before it is really so.

A word about clothes for traveling. If a man can travel much, he can afford to dress well, or at least to have a suit of nice- looking clothes for his journey. They never should be new, nor should they be light- colored. They should fit loosely. Linen dusters or alpaca dusters are no longer seen, or ought not to be seen. They nev- er were of use, for they do not materially protect the clothes from dust, and they are too hot for comfort, especially in summer. The traveling-suit should be something that lounging and dust will not damage, and it

Suits of Clothes, 49

should be as quiet and inconspicuous as the manners of the wearer. This last point about the manners is very important

It is a lamentable fact that at the sea-side and in the mountains in the summer, at re- sorts where women think they must look their prettiest, the men, especially the very young men, seem to think that they can wear as slovenly clothing as they please. Often they appear at breakfast and dinner in the same suit of lawn -tennis flannels. Such garments are proper for the morning if they fit well, if all the buttons are kept fastened, and if a decent cravat gives a con- servative air to the flannel shirt. But, when the sport of the day is over, at dinner-time or tea, a gentleman owes it to himself, to say nothing of what he owes to ladies, to ap- 4

50 Suits of Clothes,

pear in his neat sack-suit and white shirt or in his cutaway suit. Any hotel-keeper who allows " the fellows " to dance in flannel suits in the evening certainly does not keep the kind of a house at which gentlemen or ladies should stay. But it is very often an affectation to appear in a dress-suit for dinner or dancing at a summer resort, un- less it is a " hop " night. The cutaway an- swers very well on most occasions.

The Care of Clothes.

Frequent brushing — How to hang up coats and trousers — Bagging at the knee.

A man's appearance in a great measure depends upon the care which he takes of his clothes. They should be brushed care- fully, and, when not in use, should be hung up where they will get no dust. Coats should always be hung on a little frame sup- port that goes from shoulder to shoulder. These are sold very cheaply in the cities, but any one can supply himself with them

52 tfhe Care of Clothes.

by cutting the hoop of a clean barrel into sections a foot and a half long, and tying a cord to the middle, by which to hang it up. A coat and waistcoat hung on this frame keep their form well. The little loop at the back of the neck on a coat should never be used to hang it up by when the garment is to remain for more than a few moments. It seems to have been invented by tailors merely to pull a coat out of all shape. If you have not a form of the kind suggested to hang a coat on, hang it by the sleeve and shoulder on the peg, and use straight pegs ; not those with a point turned up.

Trousers, after being carefully brushed, should be turned inside out and hung by the strap behind, or from two pegs by the strap and the front of the trousers. Thus

^he Care of Clothes. 53

the folds made by wearing will be reversed, and fall back into place. It is not possible entirely to prevent trousers from bagging at the knee. But the evil can be remedied, or prevented in part, by having two pairs of trousers, and by wearing them alternately two or three days at a time. With every suit of clothes, as has been remarked (ex- cept a dress-suit), a man should have two pairs of trousers if it is possible — one to wear at his work and the other when he wants to be more careful in his appearance. A little device to hold trousers is sold in New York, and is useful. It looks like a coat-support, except that at each end the wire is bent into the shape of the letter S turned sideways, and prolonged through several curves. The black button of the

54 ^he Care of Clothes.

two front suspender buttons on each side of the trousers is slipped into one of the curves, and a good support is thus ob- tained. It is wise to have a number of hooks in rows in the top of one's ward- robes from which to hang these hoops. Much space is thereby saved, which is a great thing in small houses.

What has seemed to be a fashion has prevailed for some time in the East and in England. This is to have a slight crease down the back of the legs of the trousers. Of course, it is supposed to indicate that the trousers are new or have just been pressed. When the garment actually is new, the crease is not offensive, but if the trousers have been worn long, the crease is a ridiculous affectation that deserves the

I'ke Care of Clothes. 55

smile it usually excites. The fact is, old trousers can not be made new by any ex- periment at all. They may be encouraged to retain their shape if they are pressed by the tailor often ; but it is their fate to wear out, and the failing can not be reme- died by trick and device.

Care should be taken to draw trousers up pretty well, so that they set properly, and do not touch the ground or pavement in walking. They soon wear out on the edge if they touch. Trousers should not " break " too much — that is, bend in broken folds — just above the shoe. They are about the right length in front when they cover the lowest button of the boot-top. In re- gard to the size of trousers at the knee, as in everything else, one should not follow

56

tfke Care of Clothes.

the extreme of fashion. It is a luxury to have a pair of suspenders for every pair of trousers. Then, when once adjusted to the right length, one need never give further thought to the garment when it is on.

VI.

Hats and Neckwear.

Tall hats and derbys — Different kinds of scarfs — Rigid rules concerning white ties — Colors to buy.

A well-dressed man is always particu- lar about his hats and his shoes. Some peo- ple are careless in this respect, because they think they can economize vastly there with- out any one's noticing it. Enough has al- ready been said on previous pages about shoes, perhaps, and we would only add that one may have his shoes half-soled, but that they never should be patched. If possible,

58 Hats and Neckwear.

one should have a tall silk hat and a derby, which is a low-crowned hat. A silk hat is to a man what a best bonnet is to a woman, and, whenever the hat is part of the dress, as at the opera (when moving from box to box), a tall silk hat is absolutely indispensa- ble. It is also indispensable with a double- breasted or single-breasted frock-coat, and it is very correct to wear it with a cutaway, but not with a sack-coat. It has been a re- cent fashion, by the way, for Englishmen and Frenchmen to wear a silk hat with a black sack-coat ; but it is always safe not to do it, and it is an atrocity to wear it with a light-colored sack-coat. The derby hat, on the contrary, always looks well with a sack- coat, or a cutaway, when one is at business. It may be worn in the evening with a dress-

Hats and Neckwear. 59

suit when it is merely seen in the street, or on getting in or out of a carriage at a thea- tre. A silk hat is injured by being put under the seat with your overshoes at the theatre. Both the silk hat and the derby should be carefully brushed every day. Nothing looks worse than a hat that isn't cared for. Hats of all kinds when laid aside should rest on the crown or on the side ; never on the brim with the crown up. Resting on the brim puts a hat out of shape.

A light hat is never a good investment for a person who wishes to dress economic- ally, on the principle that, while you can wear a black hat at any time, light-colored covering for the head does not look well on a dark or rainy day, or after September

60 Hats and Neckwear.

15th, which is the date on which men in New York city are supposed to discard their summer head-gear. Straw hats are never worn by men in town in London, while in the western part of the United States in summer nearly every one has straw head-gear. In New York the men appear to have struck a just mean, and they wear straw hats on very hot days. The climate of America is much hotter than that of Eng- land, and a departure from English fashions (which generally are very sensible) in this instance is commendable. But a straw hat should not be seen on a dark day, and one worn by a middle-aged young man should never have a colored band on it — black is the only dignified thing. A very young man or a college student may have white,

Hats and Neckwear. 61

or blue, or what he pleases, taking- care, of course, that it is not too glaring.

The only time to wear a soft hat is in traveling or at sports in the country, and then the crown should be low, the brim nar- row, and the felt so soft that it can be folded up easily. What is commonly known as a lawn-tennis hat — blue or black — is about the thing to buy. It is better than the silk caps, without any visor to protect the eyes, which are sold on railway trains, and which are unbecoming to most men.

In purchasing neckwear, the same prin- ciple of buying only dark -colored stuffs when one wants to dress well, but inexpen- sively, prevails. A silk or satin scarf of dark blue, or brown, or purple, or black, with a small colored dot or figure, is proper on

62 Hats and Neckwear,

all occasions, business or social, except, of course, when full-dress is required. It is most agreeable to be able to have scarfs of many colors and styles, but it costs much money to have them, and the rest of one's wardrobe needs to be pretty elaborate to support gorgeous neckwear.

There are two kinds of scarfs — the flat scarf, like Fig. i ; and a four-in-hand, like Fig. 2, untied, and like Fig. 3, when tied in a conventional sailor's knot. It will be evi- dent from a glance at these that the flat scarf, Fig. 1, should be worn when the waistcoat buttons up quite high at the throat, for then only a little of the scarf (so far as a) is seen. Even with such a waist- coat the four-in-hand, tied as in Fig. 3, may also be worn. With a waistcoat that is cut

Hats and Neckwear.

63

64 Hats and Neckwear.

comparatively low (say to about b\ so that some of the shirt-bosom shows, the scarf as in Fig. 3 is the correct thing. It is, there- fore, the most economical article of neck- wear to buy, as it can be worn with a high or low waistcoat. If made of heavy silk, it lasts much longer than if made of satin, and looks quite as well, if not better. A man who has a dark silk four-in-hand, black or blue, with a little dot figure in it, as sug- gested previously, and one of lighter and gayer color to wear at afternoon entertain- ments, has all the neckwear he requires, except white lawn ties to wear with his dress-suit.

The four-in-hand may be tied tightly or loosely, as suits the taste, and may be wide or narrow. In winter the wider ones are

Hats and Neckwear. 65

worn, and in summer the narrower ones. In putting- them on, it is often necessary to tighten them up after they have been put in place. They are looking just right when the collar-button is covered, as it always should be. It is the height of vulgarity to have a jeweled collar-button. Both four-in- hands and flat scarfs should be held down in place, so as to be flat, by fastening them to the shirt at m and //. To pin them makes bad holes in the linen, but a little catch is sold for a trifle in the streets in any large town which is better than a pin. A more convenient little thing it would be hard to imagine.

Nothing should be worn with evening dress but a tie of white lawn tied by your- self. Ties already made up into bows, which 5

66 Hals and Neckwear.

fasten at the back of the neck, never look well, and should be avoided on the principle that one should not have anything bogus or ready-made about his dress. A cravat that is meant to look as if tied should actually be tied, and a little skill is all that is neces- sary to accomplish it. Indeed, it is better to have a white lawn tie rather badly tied, than to wear one ready made. An effort should be made to tie the lawn tie into a square bow-knot, like Fig. 4. It will be noted that the ends do not stick out very far beyond the bow part. Every one learns by experience what length of tie he should wear and how wide it should be. The first time you get your tie to suit you, note its length and width, and always buy the same afterward. Three quarters of an inch to an

Hats and Neckwear. 67

inch is about the average width. If one owns a box of English pins, which are much stronger than those of American manufact- ure, it will be very easy to put a pin in un- derneath the bow as near to the lower edge of the collar as possible (at c in Fig. 4) to hold it in place. Indeed, a bow must be pinned down, or there should be a loop of tape on the shirt bosom just below the col- lar-button, through which one end of the cravat is run before the bow is tied (as at d in Fig. 5). Scarfs and ties should also be pinned down at the back of the neck (as at e in Fig. 4).

There is no use to own a black silk, or satin, tie (a black satin scarf is a different thing) with the idea of wearing it with evening dress. At all evening entertain-

68 Hats and Neckwear,

ments, as has already been said, a white lawn tie is correct ; and while sometimes a black silk one is allowed (as at a man's dinner, or where a person is in mourning at a small gathering), yet a white one may be worn on these occasions just as well as black, and on every other occasion, too. If, therefore, a man has plenty of white ties for evening dress, he needs no oth- ers. It should be remembered that these lawn ties must be perfectly fresh from the shop or the laundry. Never try to wear a white tie twice, any more than you would try to wear a dress-shirt twice, with- out sending it to the laundry. A man's linen, when he is in evening dress, as has also been said before, must be absolutely immaculate.

Hats and Neckwear.

69

A handkerchief should never be used as an ornament, nor should a corner of it be allowed to stick out of one's coat-pocket. It is a concession to nature that should be kept out of sight as much as possible.

VII.

Jewelry and Gloves.

Few ornaments needed — Rings and pins — A good habit as to gloves.

A word about jewelry : If one has a pair of plain gold linked sleeve-buttons and a set of gold or white-enameled studs, he has all the jewelry that a gentleman needs to have, and all that is proper to wear unless he has a large wardrobe, and can afford luxuries. One should never wear a large gold watch- chain with evening dress. It is better, in- deed, to wear none at all, simply having the

Jewelry and Gloves. 71

watch in your waistcoat pocket ; but a very narrow, light gold chain is allowed on all occasions. Even with a business suit an expansive metal cable is not in good taste. As to rings, it is just as well not to wear any save a plain gold ring on the little fin- ger of the left hand. The absence of that even will never cause remark ; and the pres- ence of any rings, except when they are really artistic, and on a man who gives great thought and care to his appearance, and al- ways dresses fashionably, shows a lack of taste and judgment. If, however, you are tempted to wear a seal ring, in spite of all warning, be sure that it is a very small one. One has no need of scarf-pins at all, ex- cept with a flat scarf, which requires one in the center (as at /in Fig. 1) — another reason

72 Jewelry and Gloves.

for preferring a four-in-hand scarf. It is al- lowable to wear a very small pin with a four-in-hand if it is stuck away up in the corner of the knot (as at g in Fig. 3), so as to attract little attention. Little gold pins with pearl heads are used by some men to pin down a lawn tie (as at h and k in Fig. 4). They are all very well if you can afford to have them, because it is not necessary to conceal them, as it is the ordinary pin.

Cultivate the habit of wearing gloves whenever there is an excuse for it. They keep the hands clean, and add to one's com- fort, and to the appearance of comfort in the winter. A man with his hands stuck into the sides of his overcoat, or into his trous- ers-pockets, looks more or less wretched or parsimonious. Buy dark brown or brick-

Jewelry and Gloves. 73

red kid gloves always, either stitched with black or with silk of the same color. Only don't let your hands be conspicuous. At a funeral, for instance, one should wear black gloves and a dark tie. If one is going to dance, it is always proper, no matter what the passing rumor of fashion may be, to wear gloves, so as not to soil a lady's dress or her gloves. Evening gloves should be light lavender or white, heavily stitched with black or white. Never be afraid to wear gloves or dress-suit on proper occa- sions, whether any one else does so or not. A man can always afford to be the best- dressed gentlemen in the room.

VIII.

How to Branch Out a Little.

A table of suggestions — The use of a valet — Visiting-cards — A last word.

It will perhaps be convenient, as a sort of resume of what has been said in earlier chapters, to give in tabular form the arti- cles of wearing apparel which a careful man who wishes to dress well, but economically, should have. Here is such a table of sug- gestions :

Winter under-clothing 3 suits

Summer under-clothing 6 "

Night-shirts 3

How to Branch Out a Little. 75

Shirts with collars and cuffs attached 2

Shirts without collars and cuffs 6

Collars 10

Cuffs 10 pairs

Socks 6 "

Calf-skin shoes 2 "

Patent-leather shoes I pair

Slippers

Dress-suit

Cutaway suit (summer)

Cutaway suit (winter)

Extra trousers (for each suit) I pair

Winter overcoat

Spring overcoat '.

Handkerchiefs 12

High silk hat

Derby hat

Gloves 2 pairs

Neck scarfs 2

Lawn ties 6

Link sleeve-buttons, gold I pair

Studs, white enamel or gold. . . . , I set

This looks like a good deal, but, of course, one does not have to lay it all in

76 Hozc to Branch Out a Little.

every summer or winter. If one buys good clothes, well made and within the fashion, and takes care of what he has, his accumu- lations from year to year become valuable. A black cutaway coat properly cared for should last through the second season, and a variety in clothes can be obtained by pur- chasing, every other season, a sack-suit, rough and heavy for winter use, or of thin stuff for summer, remembering always the extra pair of trousers. It is needless, how- ever, to go much more into detail. If the case which the writer has been trying to establish has been presented in a clear man- ner, the reader (with the items in the table to serve as hints) should be able to regu- late his wardrobe easily and judiciously. If one desires to indulge his fancy in

How to Branch Out a Little. 77

neckwear, it is easily done. Bearing in mind always that quiet colors are best and most gentleman -like, one might lay in a stock of four-in-hands something as follows : Black satin, plain ; black satin or silk, with dots or sprigs of flowers ; dark blue with polka dots ; neat dark browns, small checks, and narrow stripes ; white corded silk, plain, or with a small figure to wear at day wed- dings, receptions, and other afternoon enter- tainments, or on any occasion in summer when one wishes to be a little " dressed up " ; heavy white linen, which will wash, with various designs in blue, black, or red, or dotted. Big checks or stripes are not in good form, nor are patterns of horse- shoes, whips, spurs, and the like, in good taste save at races. It is a painful rule, but

n$ How to Branch Out a Little.

one that must be followed, that the moment neckwear is soiled it must be cast aside. Summer neckwear of wash stuff should be kept as immaculate as one's linen.

Of course, it is most agreeable to have clothes of different styles if one can afford it. A light-colored sack-suit, an extra four- buttoned cutaway suit of light-colored ma- terial, in addition to the regulation dark blue sack-suit and the black cutaway suit, are most useful. Then a thin, light over- coat, lined with silk, to wear with a dress- coat in summer, and an ulster, heavy and silk-lined, for the same purpose in winter ; a heavy warm-colored cutaway, with trous- ers of the same kind for cold weather ; a plenty of white waistcoats, both dress and for cutaways ; tennis suits ; many shirts,

How to Branch Out a Little, 79

with collars and cuffs attached ; an abun- dant supply of fine neckwear ; and expensive under-wear for every season, not to mention dressing-gowns, smoking -jackets, and nu- merous hats.

All these things, and more, are nice to own, but they are by no means essential to a gentleman-like exterior. They call for an expenditure of a great deal of money, and of much time and thought, unless, as many Englishmen do, one leaves everything to the tailor, and lets him send home what and as much as he likes. In that case, all that is necessary to do is to meet the bill.

A fashion prevails at present, and seems to be growing, which is commendable if not carried to excess — that is, to tie a silk handkerchief around the waist in warm

8o How to Branch Out a Little.

weather when no waistcoat is worn. In this way the garment is held up and the top of the trousers is concealed. But the handkerchief should be of a quiet color. No suspenders should be worn. To show that this handkerchief fashion is not alto- gether silly, it may be said that the best cricket authorities in England now recom- mend that it shall be worn instead of a belt with a buckle. Many a player, it is assert- ed, is declared " caught out " by the umpire, who, having heard the click of the ball on the buckle, supposed it to have been struck by the bat. Of course, when a handker- chief replaces the belt this annoyance to cricketers is avoided. But the fashion should not be pushed to an extreme. Broad sashes of silk of gaudy colors, which cover

How to Branch Out a Little, 81

a foot or so of a man's abdomen, are simply ridiculous.

A valet is not an altogether useless serv- ant. Indeed, he is almost indispensable for a man of leisure who dresses a great deal. It is a valet's duty to call his master in the morning, prepare his bath, look after his shoes, his clean shirt, and under-wear, and to lay out the suit of clothes to put on (after consultation). The valet also shaves his master if he is a first-class " man." If the gentleman breakfasts in bed, the valet waits on him, as he often does at other meals. His duties are then done until the master returns to make another toilet, or reappears at night, when he must be on hand to help in undressing and getting to bed. Then he must take from the room 6

82 How to Branch Out a Little.

all the clothing which is to be brushed in the morning. A valet accompanies his employer everywhere in traveling, and looks after baggage, tickets, and trains. In some of the great houses in England a vis- itor is not welcome unless he brings his own servant, who waits on him in his room, and frequently at table. It will be evident that a valet can be useful to his master in many other ways.

A visiting-card is not exactly part of a gentleman's dress, but it is something which, in a town of any size, he is obliged to have. In size it should be small — about three inches long and one inch and a half wide — and cut from thin, white cardboard. The name should always be preceded by " Mr." It is well, also, and the fashion is

Hozv to Branch Out a Little. 83

sensibly growing-, to spell the entire name in full — middle names and all. The reason naturally is, that if a man has a name he should use it. A commercial man uses the initials of his first two or three names in writing a letter on business, presumably to save time. But in genteel relations in life a gentleman is not in a hurry. He has leisure to write his name in full. Never have cards printed. They should be either engraved or written in lead-pencil.

A last word : Avoid the habit of using slang and coarse, common language. If you offend in this way, your speech, despite your clothes, will betray the fact that your associates are not refined.

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Three whole chapters have been added to the work by the Ameri- can editor — one on the sonnet, one on the rondeau and the ballade, and a third on other fixed forms of verse ; while he has dealt freely with the English author's text, making occasional alterations, fre- quent insertions, and revising the dictionary of rhymes.

" Its chapters relate to matters of which the vast majority of those who write verses are utterly ignorant, and yet which no poet, how- ever brilliant, should neglect to learn. Though rules can never teach the art of poetry, they may serve to greatly mitigate the evils of ordi- nary versification. This instructive treatise contains a dictionary of rhymes, an examination of classical measures, and comments on vari- ous forms of verse-writing. We earnestly commend this little book to all those who have thoughts which can not be expressed except in poetic measures." — New York Observer.

"If young writers will only get the book and profit by its instruc- tions, editors throughout the English-speaking world will unite in thanking this author for his considerate labor." — New York Home Journal.

i8mo, cloth, extra. Uniform with "The Orthoepist " and "The Verbalist." Price, $1.00.

New York: D. APPLETON & CO., i, 3, & 5 Bond Street.

The Great Metropolis .

A ppletons' Dictionary of New York and Vicinity.

A guide-book, alphabetically arranged. Crowded with information. Very useful to citizens and strangers. With valuable Maps. Revised twice each year.

Paper, 30 cents.

N

ew York Illustrated.

With One Hundred and Forty-four Illustrations — Street Scenes, Buildings, Parks, etc. — and four valuable Maps. Very handsome. New edition, brought down to the present season.

8vo. Paper, 75 cents.

New York : D. APPLETON & CO., 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street.

A Thousand Flashes of ^*- French Wit, Wisdom,

and Wickedness.

Collected and translated by J. De FINOD.

A collection of wise and brilliant sayings from French writers, making a rich and piquant book of fresh quota- tions.

' ' A bright and spicy collection. Here we have the shrewdest say- ings, in brief, of Voltaire, Rousseau, La Rochefoucauld, Mme. de Sevigne, Mme. de Stael, De Musset, Victor Hugo, Sainte-Beuve, Bal- zac, George Sand, Alexandre Dumas, Souvestre, E. de Girardin, Beranger, Napoleon, and many others less known." — New York Era.

" The volume contains the pith of the bright sayings to be found in the works of the best writers of France. It is an admirable epitome of the philosophy it represents." — Boston Gazette.

" The book is a charming one to take up for an idle moment, and is just the thing to read to a mixed company of ladies and gentle- men."— Boston Courier.

" A very attractive little volume. These selections are what the title indicates, ' flashes.' Three hundred or more authors are repre- sented, and every page of the book has something that is bright, piquant, and suggestive." — Albany Evening Times.

One volume, 167120, cloth, price, $1.00.

New York : D. APPLETON & CO., 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street.

u

ncle Remus:

His Songs and his Sayings,

THE FOLK-LORE OF THE OLD PLANTATION.

By Joel Chandler Harris.

". . . Mr. Harris's book may be looked on in a double light — either as a pleasant volume recounting the stories told by a typical old colored man to a child, or as a valuable contribu- tion to our somewhat meager folk-lore. ... To Northern read- ers the story of Brer (Brother — Brudder) Rabbit may be novel. To those familiar with plantation life, who have listened to these quaint old stories, who have still tender reminiscences of some good old mauma who told these wondrous adventures to them when they were children, Brer Rabbit, the Tar Baby, and Brer Fox, come back again with all the past pleasures of younger days." — New York Times.

Well illustrated from Drawings by F. S. Church, whose humorous animal drawings are so well known, and J. H. Moser, of Georgia.

I vol., i2ino, cloth, $1.50; paper, 50 cents. New York : D. APPLETON & CO., 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street.

" * Bachelor Bluff' is bright, witty, keen, deep, sober, philosophical, amusing, instructive, philanthropic — in short, what is not l Bachelor Bluff ' ? "

NEW CHEAP SUMMER EDITION,

IN PARCHMENT PAPER.

gachelor Bluff:

His Opinions^ Sentiments^ and

DispUtatiOnS. By Oliver B. Bunce.

"Mr. Bunce is a writer of uncommon freshness and power. . . . Those who have read his brief but carefully written studies will value at their true worth the genuine critical insight and fine literary qualities which characte.ize his work." — Christian Union.

"We do not recall any volume of popular essays published of late years which contains so much good writing, and so many fine and original com- ments on topics of current interest. Mr. Oracle Bluff is a self-opinionated, genial, whole-souled fellow. . . . His talk is terse, epigrammatic, full of quotable proverbs and isolated bits of wisdom." — Boston Traveller.

"It is a book which, while professedly aiming to amuse, and affording a very rare and delightful fund of amusement, insinuates into the crevices of the reflective mind thoughts and sentiments that are sure to fructify and perpetu- ate themselves." — Eclectic Magazine.

New cheap edition. i6mo, parchment paper. Price, 50 cents.

New York : D. APPLETON & CO., 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street.

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