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HISTORIC BATTERSEA

His autograph from the Originalin. the PofsefsioTvof

John Thane.

Historic Battersea

TOPOGRAPHICAL BIOGRAPHICAL

BY

SHERWOOD RAMSEY.

WITH TWELVE ILLUSTRATIONS.

COPYRIGHT.

G. RANGECROFT & Co.,

ST. JOHN'S HILL, BATTERSBA, LONDON, S.W.

I9I3-

PREFACE.

THE author of this work, in placing before the public the fruits of over three years' labour and research, has presented the results in a reliable, rather than a showy manner, and has sacrificed for this, perhaps, some effects of literary adornment.

"Historic Battersea" will arrest general attention — apart from sociological interest — principally because it is the first effort to place before readers anything approach- ing a complete history of Battersea.

The material from which this book has been slowly upbuilt, has been obtained from the archives of West- minster Abbey, the Record Office, the British Museum, and other reference libraries containing old manuscripts and books relating to the work undertaken.

Battersea of to-day, with a rateable value of over one million of money, can here be compared with the 11 Patricesey " of the time of William the Conqueror, and it's evolution traced from that period, through the eras of Bolingbroke and Wilberforce to the present day. It will be noted that what at one time, in the late eighteenth century, was one of the most desirable suburban residential districts for the wealthy, fell from its high repute, until it became a veritable pandemonium on earth, and the resort of the most undesirable. One of the reasons for this will probably be found in the chapters dealing with the Red House and its environments, and the Sunday orgies per- mitted in the neighbourhood of Battersea Fields.

vi. PREFACE.

The author acknowledges his indebtedness, and conveys his thanks to those who kindly loaned to him some of the engravings reproduced in this work, forming the most complete set of pictures of Old Battersea ever brought together in one volume.

In conclusion, it may be pointed out that a meed of praise is due to the publishers for the whole-hearted manner in which they have co-operated with the author in submitting this concise and handy volume of historical reference for the approval of the public.

c.w.o.

April, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Chapter Page

List of Illustrations xi.

I. The Antiquity of Battersea.

The Origin of the Name— Ancient Records — Old Charters— Forest Land— The Manor of Battersea — The Stanley Family — The St. John Family — Ford Across the River — Ancient Finds 1-4

II. EARLY BATTERSEA.

Marsh Land— Old Parish Church— The Plague — Windmills — Old Battersea Bridge — Water Supply— Falcon Brook — Battersea Creek — Market Gardens — River Watermen — Thames Regatta— First Training College— The Hamlet of Penge— Traders' Tokens— Wages in 1815— The Stocks 5-15

ill. later battersea.

Falcon Lane — Manor House, St. John's Hill — Turner — Battersea Square — The Priory — First Steamer on the Thames — Carlyle — Surrey Lane — Stage Coaches — First Railway — Black Records — Dr. Watson and Electricity 16-23

IV. The Commons.

Their origin — Common Rights — Common Fields — Latchmoor Common — Enclosing Common Land — Clapham and Battersea Boundary Dispute — Free Fights — Penge Common— Legal Rights— The Landgrabbers 24-27

viii. CONTENTS.

Chapter Page

V. BATTERSEA FIELDS.

Battersea Fields, 1740— Highwaymen and Foot- pads— Sunday Carnivals — Dog Carts — The Balloon Gardens — A Historic Duel — Mr. Long — Battersea Park 28-31

VI. BATTERSEA WORTHIES.

Owen Ridley— Henry Elsynge — Dr Thomas Temple— Henry St. John, Lord Bolingbroke —Bishop Patrick — Dr. Thomas Church — William Wilberforce — John Gardner — Thomas Astle — Theodore Janssan — Joseph Hughes — John Cullum 32-51

VII. BATTERSEA ENAMEL.

The Founder of the Works — Hancock and his Assistants— The Art of Enameling — Transfer Printing, French Enamels— Bilston Enamels

— Birmingham and Liverpool Enamels — Famous Collections 52-57

viii. Famous Battersea Houses.

York House — Bolingbroke House — Sherwood Lodge — The Red House — Broomfield — Lubbock House 58-68

IX. Old Time Taverns.

The Falcon— The White Hart— The Old Swan —The Old House— The Raven— Star and Garter— Nine Elms Tavern— The Old House at Home — The Plough 69-73

X. BATTERSEA INDUSTRIES.

Lime Works— Pottery Works— Foundry— Sal- mon Fishing — Boat and Barge Building — Silk Factory — Wicker Works — Bowley's Oil and Colour Works— Fownes' Glove Factory

— Battersea Soap Works — Brunei's Saw Mills— Shoe Factory— The Starch Works- Price's Candle Works— Nine Elms Gas Works 74-86

CONTENTS. ix.

Chapter Page

XL BATTERSEA AND BOTANY.

Indigenous Plants and Flowers — Pamplin's Nurseries — Rural Aspect of Battersea in 1800 87-91

XII. BATTERSBA bequests.

John Banks — Ann Cooper — John Edmonds — Mark Bell — Rebecca Wood — Anthony Haldi- mand — John Pavin — Thomas Archer — Buck and Purkins— John Shewell — John Rapps — Henry Tritton — John Constable — Edwin Thompson — Henry Juer — Edward Dagnall — Henry Smith— The Ely Charity— Elizabeth Copeland— Emma Webb— Lost Charities 92-98

XIII. BATTERSEA CHURCHES.

St. Mary's— Wesleyan Church— St. George's— Methodist Free Church — Christ Church — Church of the Sacred Heart— The Church of Our Lady— The "New" Baptist Church— St. John's — St. Saviour's — Congregational Church — The Old Baptist Meeting House — St. Mark's— St. Matthew's— St. Peter's 99-103

Past Vicars of Battersea 104-105

XIV. BATTERSEA SCHOOL.

National Schools— Night Schools— The First Factory School — St. John's School — The Grove School — St. Mary's School — St. George's School — Christ Church School — The Masonic School — St James' School 106- no

XV. local Government.

The Vestry— Highway Board— Board of Works — The Burial Board — First Elected Vestry — The Baths — Public Library — Lammas Hall — Incorporation — First Ratepayers' Association — Municipal Buildings — Morden Cemetery — Borough Council 111-116

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS:

HENRY St. JOHN, LORD BOLJNGBROKE, 1717-

OLD BATTERSEA BRIDGE, 1771-1887.

THAMES REGATTA, 1775.

BATTERSEA REACH, 1778.

THE PARISH CHURCH, 1780.

WILLIAM WILBERFORCE, 1780.

BATTERSEA ENAMELS, 1750-1762.

"THE RED HOUSE," 1830.

"THE FALCON TAVERN," 1789.

"THE PLOUGH," St. JOHN'S HILL, 1790.

LUBBOCK HOUSE, BATTERSEA RISE, 1794-

BATTERSEA RISE, 1798.

HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

CHAPTER I. THE ANTIQUITY OF BATTERSEA.

THE origin of the name Battersea is lost in antiquity, some of our best historians give various surmises as to the meaning of the word, but their reasoning has not much support in matter-of-fact evidence. The earliest records of Battersea are dated 693. In some of the manu- scripts the name is spelt Baetrice, and many of these documents were in the archives of Westminster Abbey; in other records of various dates the name is spelt as Batrichesia, Battlesey, Patricheseya, Patricesie, and Batricheseye, down to the sixteenth century, when we find the spelling evolved to Battersey, and in the seventeenth century it was first spelt Battersea. The Domesday Book, which was compiled in 1086, gives the name as Patricesey, which was said to mean St. Peter's Isle.

There are in existence several charters relating to Battersea, one being William the Conqueror's original grant, another emanating from Henry I., and one from King Stephen. In some of these early documents the name is spelt Battlese, but these records do not show how the name originated, tradition says that the name was derived from the battles which were fought in the bed of the river when the tide was low and the river fordable. Old historians say that after the Conqueror had failed in his attempt to enter London, he encamped at Battersea

2 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Reach. At this time the greater part of Battersea was forest land, and was valued for purpose of assessment at nineteen hides ; in 1080 William held right for hunting in the woods near Battersea; and in 1225 the manor of Battersea was assigned for the maintenance of the monks at Westminster. The abbey was closed in 1540.

The Westminster records shew that when Cedwalla, King of the West Saxons, won Surrey in battle, he gave Battersea to Erconwald, a bishop, by whom it was trans- ferred to the abbey of Barking.

Domesday Book also records that Battersea was held by Karl Harold and afterwards by William the Conqueror, who claimed the crown regalia which had been placed in the keeping of the abbots of the convent of Westminster by King Edward. King William then gave the manor of Battersea to the abbots of Westminster, and it remained under their rule four hundred and sixty years until the reign of Henry VIII., when the manor became crown property.

The Stanley family owned a large part of Battersea up to the time of Edward IV., when the property was alienated by John Stanley, and one part became the property of Anne, Duchess of Buckingham, the king's aunt ; the other part, nearly four hundred acres of land, was purchased by Lawrence Booth, who annexed it to the see of York.

In 1610 the income from the manor was applied to the maintenance of Henry, Prince of Wales, until 1627, when Charles I. granted the reversion in fee, of the manor of Battersea to Oliver St. John, Viscount Granderson, who died in 1630. After his death it came to William Villiers, who was killed at Bristol in 1644. Sir John St. John, nephew of the first Lord Granderson, then inherited the manor — he was connected by marriage with Anne Boleyn's family — and he was succeeded by Walter St. John, his nephew, and on his death it went to his son, Henry, Vis- count St. John, and from him it descended to his grandson, Henry, Viscount Bolingbroke, and then to Frederick,

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THE ANTIQUITY OF BATTRRSEA. 3

nephew of the first Lord Bolingbroke. In 17 16 Henry St. John become Baron St. John of Battersea ; he was the father of Lord Bolingbroke. In 1763 the estate was sold to Earl Spencer, the amount paid being ^30,000. Lord Spencer retained his freehold until 1835.

In 1684 Henry St. John pleaded guilty to murdering Sir William Estcourt in a quarrel at a supper party, when swords were drawn. He was reprieved by Charles II. upon the payment of ,£16,000. Bishop Burnet, in his history of the Court, says that King Charles put half the money in his own pocket and gave the remainder to two ladies who were then in his favour.

Oliver St. John was the first of the family to reside in Battersea. The last of the St. John family to be buried in Battetsea was a daughter of Lord Bolingbroke.

Sir Richard Phillips, writing in 1810 on historical events, says there was a crossing-way over the Thames near Battersea, where Caesar pursued the retreating Britons. " This causeway," he said, " may yet be traced from the south bank of the river at low water, so that this was prob- ably a ford where the British wing retreated before the Romans, and across which they were doubtless followed by Caesar."

Maitland, the historian, also says that Caesar crossed the Thames in pursuit of the Britons between Chelsea and Battersea, where an old ford existed, this ford was broad enough to allow ten men to walk abreast ; some warlike implements have been found near where this ford existed, these were of the Roman period, a Celtic shield was also found on the Battersea side ot the river, which is now in the British Museum. Many finds of old implements and other relics of the past ages have been found in the river bed, and in and about Battersea ; weapons of iron and bronze, human skulls, lead coffins, and stone implements. Some of these were found during the making of the park and building the new bridge. Two embossed shields and an ancient cauldron were dug up from the bed of the river

4 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

some few years ago, these belong to the bronze age and are now in the British Museum, there is in the same museum a flint sickle which was found in the Thames near Battersea. Utensils of the Roman period, mediaeval pottery, mammoth teeth of extinct animals, bronze spears, and flint axes of early man have been found in the river banks between Chelsea and Battersea.

There are in the British Museum several small round pieces of tin which were found in the Thames at Battersea. They are remarkable for having impressed upon them the Christian monogram the chirho which is the earliest mark of Christian faith. Many of these tin discs were found in the Roman catacombs, and date back to the fourth century.

In the Hilton- Price collection at the London Museum can be seen a good specimen of a tenth century sword. Some years ago a part of this sword was found in the river bed at Battersea, the part found consisted of the hilt and about three-quarters of the blade, on the blade there was an inscription, which was unfinished on account of the mis- sing piece broken off. Any hope of finding this was never thought of, yet, when the Tower Bridge was being built this very fragment was found deep down in the bed of the river ; the fit of the two pieces was exact and the inscrip- tion read straight on, thus completing the wording. This sounds incredible, but such is the fact of the finding of the tenth century sword now in the London Museum.

When the West London Railway was constructed some fine specimens of horns belonging to the red deer were dug up in the river bed near Battersea ; these relics of the past belonged to a time when the wolf, the deer, and the wild boar, roamed undisturbed about the woods which lined the river bank.

Battersea is in the hundred of Brixton, and it is bounded by Lambeth on the east, by Clapham, Streatham and Camberwell on the south, by Wandsworth on the west and by the Thames on the north.

CHAPTER II. EARLY BATTERSEA.

IN ancient times the river Thames covered the low- lying land around Battersea to a considerable extent,

and in some parts when the tide was at full, old historians say that the water reached as far as Clapham, and even down to the year 1570 the greater part of lower Battersea was under water, the land which now forms the Park, and extending nearly as far as Nine Elms was a boggy marsh, as the river reached far beyond its present limits; when the tide was high the water spread over the land a considerable distance, and the river banks were constantly breaking away by force of the in-rush of water. To prevent this a wall was built of brick and stone along the river bank, which was known as "The Marsh Wall," after the building of this wall much of the land was drained and reclaimed, this land was divided into plots and known as Short Marsh, Middle Marsh, and Long Marsh land.

No mention is made in the Domesday Book of any church at Battersea, yet other records show that a parish church was endowed in 1152 by the abbot of Westminster, and that the living was held by the bishop of Winchester in the time of Philip and Mary. In 1776 this church was found to be in a decayed condition, past all repair, and was pulled down. It was a building of great antiquity and had some claim to architectural beauty in design, the tower was massive and embattled. The church is men- tioned in several old records as an imposing structure, which had some fine stained glass windows. The art of glass staining was flourishing in England at this period.

6 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

The most magnificent stained window was in Canterbury Cathedral, which was destroyed by a madman in the time of Cromwell. Westminster Abbey contains some very fine specimens, also York Minster.

One of the windows in Battersea Church was said to have been done by Jarvis McAllister, who was a highly gifted artist, but his colours were not entirely fadeless. An artist named Pearson discovered the process by which the colours in glass staining were rendered permanent, much of his beautiful work in churches and other public buildings is scattered throughout Great Britain. In the east window of St. Mary's church are three portraits, one to the memory of Margaret Beauchamp, who was the wife of Sir Oliver St. John, her second husband being the Duke of Somerset ; she was the grandmother of Henry VII. The second portrait is of Henry VII., and the third is the portrait of Queen Elizabeth, who was the granddaughter of Thomas Boleyn, the father of Anne Boleyn. The parish register dates from 1559, but was kept in a most irregular manner in the old days, many of the entries must have been made by a very ignorant person, and in some years no entries seem to have been made at all. Many of the records are quaint and curious reading.

The present church, which was built upon the site of the old one, is chiefly known for its copper spire, which was much praised by Sir E. Poynter, R.A. The east window contains the fine stained glass removed from the old church. It is to be regretted that out of sixteen plates and brasses removed from the old church, only seven are in the present building, the rest being lost. Most of the old coffin plates, which were stolen, were worked in silver, and some of the oldest monuments were destroyed or allowed to fall into decay. The earliest monument in the old church was an elaborate brass to the memory of John Rennold, dated 1443. Two members of Queen Elizabeth's household, Henry Huss and Hugh Morgan, were buried in the old church. There was also a

EARLY BATTERSEA. 7

stately monument to Queen Elizabeth, but the finest monu- ment preserved from the old church was that belonging to the Bolingbroke family, which is built of grey and white marble; this was designed by that famous artist Roubilliac, it has medallion portraits and an inscription written by L,ord Bolingbroke. There is a memorial stone to Sir E. Wynter, an old Battersea worthy, a great traveller who was in the service of the East India Company in the reign of Charles II. History records that when in India he was attacked by a tiger, which he seized by the throat as it sprang at him, and forced it into the river, where it was drowned. An inventory taken in the reign of Edward VI. shows that the old church had costly fittings, the hangings consisted of damask, silk, satin and velvet. Some very old documents relating to past vicars are still preserved, one of them refers to Owen Ridley, who was vicar in 1575. The church records shew that Battersea suffered severely during the plague, the deaths were so numerous that two large burial pits had to be dug, into which the bodies were put, great distress prevailed in the parish, and prayers were said daily in the church for the people's deliverance from the scourge. The plague visited Battersea in 1603, 1625, and 1665, the last being the most severe visitation.

Quaint wooden windmills stood all along the Thames banks in the early part of the nineteenth century, and several of those windmills were picturesque objects about Battersea. One of the best known was Randall's mill at Nine Elms, this mill is shown in several old engravings. Another noted mili was in Nine Elms Lane, which served as a beacon for boats on the river, this mill stood near where the "Southampton Arms" is now situated, not far from the old steamboat pier. Steele, in one of his works, mentions the Battersea mills ; in giving an account of a voyage on the Thames, he tells how he met a fleet of Battersea gardeners going to market with their produce, and how he drew up at the Nine Elms pier near the old windmill. In connection with these mills was a narrow

8 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

footway which had a low parapet on both sides known as Mill-pond Bridge, it crossed a reservoir of water used for driving the mill-wheel.

The most famous windmill in Battersea was one which stood near the old Parish Church, this mill was built upon an original plan, it was without visible sails, but had on each side a number of vertical shutters. The mill was built in 1788 and was known as the horizontal air mill, owned by a Mr. Hodgson, maltster. It served as a land mark for miles around Battersea. The following description of this mill is from an old news sheet : " On the site of the venerable family mansion of Henry St. John, Viscount Bolingbroke, is erected a horizontal air-mill, for grinding malt for distillation, originally intended for grinding linseed ; it is one hundred and forty feet high, and the average diameter of the cone is about fifty feet, having ninety-six shutters, which, though only nine inches broad, reach to the height of eighty feet : these, by means of a rope, open and shut in the manner of Venetian blinds. In the inside the main shaft of the mill is the centre of a large circle, formed by the sails, which consist of ninety- six double planks, placed perpendicularly, and the same height as the shutters; through these shutters the wind passing turns the mill with great rapidity, which is increased or diminished by opening or shutting the apertures ; in it are six pairs of stones. Adjacent are extensive bullock- houses capable of holding six hundred and fifty bullocks, to be fed with the grains from the distillery, mixed with meal ; " the mill was not a success, and no more mills were built upon this novel plan. Many of the old prints of Battersea show this mill. Another novelty in windmills was the windmill pump, which was erected on Wandsworth Common by a gentleman named William Watson, in 1815, this was built for the purpose of supplying what was known as the " black sea " pond with water, the ruins of this mill are still standing (19 13) on the railway siding near Trinity Road.

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Windmills are of great antiquity, and believed to be of Roman invention. They were first introduced into England by the Knights of St. John, who copied the mode of building them from what they had seen during the Crusades. In later years we find them greatly improved and used for many purposes, a wind saw-mill was erected in the Strand in the year 1633, this was built by a Dutch- man ; a great many of the early windmills were built by the Dutch.

A writer of some note in the eighteenth century pro- tested against the unsightly state of some of the windmills ; she said, " How is it that modern millers are the most tasteless mortals in the world ? all the materials of an enchanting place are ready to their hands, as they must, for their trade have a lake, a river and a waterfall, which are highly picturesque ; the mills are usually located in pretty villages rich in overhanging woods following the windings of their water power ; yet how seldom does one see a mill that is not offensive to the eye ? like a drunken man in a church, outraging the propriety of the place, I can see no reason why a mill in the midst of rural scenery might not be made an adjunct to the landscape, instead of an eyesore, yet how often do we find a four-square white- washed, unadorned, ugly mill by the banks of a pastoral river ? "

About 1760 an agitation was commenced for a bridge across the Thames from Battersea to Fulham ; the project was opposed by the Chelsea and Fulham tradesmen on the assumption that it would be the means of taking the trade of their district to Battersea ; the projector of the scheme won, and the first bridge across the Thames at Battersea was built of wood in 1771, and had sixteen piers, the bridge was seven hundred and twenty-six feet long, twenty-four feet wide, the total cost of building was ^20,000, this money was contributed by the land-owners and residents of Battersea and Chelsea ; and Earl Spencer, who con- tributed the major portion of the money, took the toll.

io HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Before the building of this bridge the only means of crossing the river was by a ferry which had been in existence many centuries. The building of the bridge was quite an event in Battersea, crowds of people used to congregate on the banks of the river to watch the building in progress, and when it was finished the opening day was given up to rejoicing and merry-making on both sides of the river, the bridge being gaily decorated with bunting and flags intermingled with festoons of flowers. Years afterwards, when the Thames regatta was an annual insti- tution, Battersea Bridge was filled with sightseers who paid high prices for their seats or standing room.

At this time the water supply was by means of wells, some of which were on the common laud, the water carts used to get their supply of water from these wells, and supply the cottages in the village. One of those wells still exists in the basement of the old Vestry Hall on the Battersea Rise, it was discovered about five years ago during some building alterations. Another well, which has since been filled in, was on Lavender Hill where the Shakespeare Theatre now stands. Water was also taken from the Falcon brook, which took its rise near Balham, coming down through what is now Northcote Road, and forming a large lake on the site of St. John's Road, and was known as the " Washway," it then proceeded under the roadway at the foot of St. John's Hill, and turning westward, flowed down what is now Lavender Road into the creek. In the eighteenth century an ancient bridge spanned this creek, which passed down York Road ; persons coming from Wandsworth had to pay toll. There is an old deed in existence dating back to 1279, which mentions the bridge as being on the road to Wendlesworth (Wandsworth).

At the commencement of the seventeenth century Battersea was famous for its market gardens, they extended from the Lavender Hill down to Battersea Park Road, they also covered much of the land near the river. The

EARLY BATTERSEA. n

Battersea gardeners were noted for their fine growth of vegetables, which fetched high prices in the London mar- kets. The gardeners of Battersea were the first growers to cultivate asparagus and introduce it in the fruit and vege- table markets. The Battersea gardens were most probably- improved by the Huguenots who settled in Wandsworth in 1639. Fuller, writing in 1660 on the gardens of Surrey, says, " Gardening was first introduced into England about 1590, before this time we obtained our fruit, etc., mainly from France and Holland. The gardeners of Battersea paid 7s. 6d. per acre for tithes to the vicar. In 1800 nearly one hundred and fifty acres were under cultivation."

Many of the boatmen who plied on the river had their homes in Battersea, and among them were men who gathered the flotsam and jetsam of the river, some ot which brought rewards from the coroner, for the old wooden bridge was responsible for detaining many a dead body, which had floated with the tide until caught in the piles of the bridge and captured by some prowl- ing boatman. The police galleys had to keep a sharp look out when there were heavy laden barges moored, for many suspicious looking boats were about, ready to snap up un- considered trifles.

Some of the Thames watermen also lived at Battersea, the Red House being the starting point for the river car- nivals and sports. The watermen can trace their occupa- tion back to a remote period, when the river was the great highway of commerce and pleasure. In a Statute of Henry VIII., passed in 1514, for regulating their fares, it is recorded " That it has been a laudable custume and usage tyme out of mind to use the river in barge or whery bote." And the annals of the Watermen's Company give an interesting account of a dispute as far back as 1293 con- cerning the charge for the conveyance of passengers from Gravesend to London. The regular fare was one half- penny for each person, but some unscrupulous boatmen charged passengers a penny. So the offenders were taken

12 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

by the sheriff before the justices of assize, who admonished them, and made each waterman give a bond of 40s. for future good behaviour.

Stow, the historian, computed that in 1600 there were forty thousand boatmen upon the rolls of the Watermen's Company ; this gives an idea of the river traffic at this time. The wealthy class kept their own watermen, there were also watermen of the Court who attended all state func- tions. The Thames at this date was the great highway of London, there were no bridges across the river beyond London Bridge until 1750, when the old Westminster Bridge was opened.

River sports were introduced into England from Venice about 1774, and the first regatta to take place in this country was on the Thames at Battersea Reach on the 23rd June, 1775, when thousands of spectators lined the river bank on both sides to watch the racing between the rival vessels. Soon after its introduction the regatta be- came one of the most popular of river sports. A regatta consists of a series of races between sailing vessels or row- ing boats, the prizes contested for being mostly presenta- tions. The races were managed by a committee of gentlemen called stewards, who appointed two officers to decide all questions in dispute during the races, these offi- cials were termed " umpire" and "judge." In 1839 Henley regatta was established, and in 1843 the Thames regatta started from Putney Bridge ; many professional oarsmen and scullers took part in these river sports. Another popular pastime in these days was the musical water party, which was often given on the banks of the river near Battersea ; well appointed pleasure boats assisted at those entertainments, which were of a gay and picturesque character, many notabilities being present dressed in fancy costumes. Marlow, the artist, depicts one of these river party scenes in an oil painting, now valuable.

The first training college for teachers in England was built at Battersea, this building stood near the river on

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part of the site of Bolingbroke House, and was known as Battersea Training College, for the training of elementary teachers. This college was instituted in 1840 by Sir James Shuttleworth.

In 1700 Penge was a small hamlet, part of the parish of Battersea; it had a population of about seventy persons, and the number of houses within the parish was onlj four- teen. It remained part of the parish of Battersea down to 1900, when it was transferred to the county of Kent. At one period of its history Penge was a place of some importance.

An old historian records that in the reign of Queen Mary, Alexander Nowell, one of the deans of St. Paul's, and headmaster of Westminster School, one fine summer's day was fishing in the Thames on the banks near Battersea, when Bishop Bonner, who hated Nowell for his support of the "New Opinione," made an attempt to capture him, but after a severe struggle Nowell escaped, leaving behind him his luncheon, which consisted of bread, cheese and some beer in a bottle, this he had placed in a hollow in the bank until luncheon time. A long time after this incident hap- pened he returned to Battersea, and, being curious to know if his beer was still in the bank, he went in search of it, and found it just as he had left it, then he goes on to say that " when I opened the bottle the stopper flew off like a gun, but I found the flavour of the beer much improved, being richer than ever I have known beer to be." Sir James Fuller was of opinion that this was the origin of bottled beer.

During the seventeenth century many Battersea traders issued their own money for small amounts, these coins were made of a mixture of lead and tin, and were known as traders' tokens.

In Battersea Square stood the old workhouse, near "The Priory," and a little higher up the road, in Surrey Lane, was the "Cage" for the confinement of persons guilty of petty crimes. The " Stocks," for the punishment

14 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

of disorderly persons, were outside the parish church near the river.

In 1 8 15 the wages paid for labour in Battersea seems to have been below the amount paid during the period termed " the hungry forties." A writer in a magazine of that time says, " I made enquiries in Battersea relative to the condition of the workers, and I was grieved to find that the payment of dajr labourers varies from 3s. to 2s. per day, or on an average is not more than 15s. per week ; of women from is. to is. 6d., or about 7s. per week; and of children from 6d. to qd., or 4s. per week ; though for the last two classes there is only sufficient employment for half the year. A poor man who had a wife and three children to maintain on 14s. per week, told me that for many months he and his family had been strangers to meat, cheese, butter or beer, that bread, potatoes, nettles, turnips, carrots and onions, with a little salt, constituted the whole of their food, that during the winter months he was obliged to rely on the parish, and in case of sickness he and his children had no resource besides the workhouse. " I don't think," said he, "the gentlefolk save much by run- ning down the poor so very hard, for we are obligated to get it on the parish, which they pay, so it's all one, though it grieves a poor man, as one may say, to apply to the overseers, and to have no hope but the workhouse at last."

"I agree with this humble economist that it seems to be as ungenerous as impolitic to throw on the poor rates a burthen which ought to be borne by those who profit from the labour thus inadequately remunerated. It could not, and ought not, to be difficult to fix a minimum (not a maximum) rate of pay, such as should be sufficient to sup- port an average sized family. With inferior means, the labourer must suffer the obloquy of being remunerated from the parish rates, to which all are forced to contribute as fully as though the employer paid the fair value of the labour in the first instance, and assessed it on the price of

EARLY BATTERSEA. 15

his commodity. How painful the condition of the poor, contrasted with that of the rich ; yet how closely are they allied, and how adventitiously separated ! The latter solace themselves in a fancied exemption from the miseries and ignominy which attach to the former, though their daily experience of the caprice of fortune ought to teach them, while they have the power, that it would be wiser to diminish the contrast by ameliorating the condition of poverty ! How glorious the spectacle afforded by the exhi- bition of civilized society, though that justly admired civilization is but a result of artifices that create the dis- tinctions of rich and poor! What a gulph between the ancient Britons in the social equality of their woods and caverns, and the favoured English in their luxurious cities and magnificent palaces."

This sounds like present day socialism ! yet it was written one hundred years ago by Sir Richard Phillips, a sound supporter of the constitution.

CHAPTER III.

LATER BATTERSEA.

FROM the seventeenth century to the early nineteenth century very little change took place in the normal aspect of Battersea, for not until this period had London commenced to extend its boundaries far beyond the City limits, and Battersea was one of the many parishes which were dotted about on the outskirts of the big city, being connected with it only by the old turnpike roads ; and up to the middle of the nineteenth century Battersea had a very rural aspect.

Falcon Lane (now Falcon Road), had hawthorne bushes on each side of the roadway, which enclosed meadow land, orchards, and gardens. The Falcon Inn was a small beer-house, with a large tree in front of it, and a water-trough for the use of horses. A few cottages with long front gardens were dotted about the lane, and a small farmhouse here and there in the fields. The general aspect was very rural ; and what is now St. John's Road had much the same appearance. St. John's Hill was a country road leading to the village of Wandsworth, each side being flanked by meadow land and cornfields. A few houses had been built about Plough Lane (now Plough Road) and Union Road (Usk Road), and two or three large houses and mansions stood off the main road. The most famous house on the hill was " The Manor House," which stood near the Alms Houses, not tar from where the Infirmary now stands. The grounds were very extensive, and most beautifully kept. This house had a very inter- esting history. It was designed by Wren and built by a

LATER BATTERSEA. 17

French refugee, Peter Paggen. It was a handsome and imposing structure, commanding a fine view of the country around. For some years this house was the home of the Princess who afterwards became Queen Anne, and many historic scenes were enacted here during her residence. On the walls were decorative paintings and other speci- mens of art work, by the foremost artists of the time ; but as they were worked in panels on the walls, they were destroyed when the house was demolished in 1892.

Peter Paggen, the builder of the Manor House, was a Huguenot, who fled to England, with so many of his countrymen, on the Decree of Nantes. He died about 17 10, and lies buried with his confreres in Mount Nod burial-ground, East Hill, Wandsworth.

At this time Woolf's pencil works in the York Road, was a farm kept by a Mr. Turk, and known as Turk's Farm. Part of the original farmhouse is still standing (19 13). Near this farm the Falcon brook ran, an open waterway in which boats were rowed as far as the creek bridge in York Road. Near to Plough Lane stood the Creek flour mills, which were owned by a Mr. Denny. Most of the land about this part of Battersea belonged to the Bishopric of York.

Off York Road, and what is now Battersea Park Road, were orchards, market gardens, and meadow fields, which flanked each side of the road. The east end of York Road was known as Pickpocket Lane, and the " Prince's Head " was only a country inn. At that time (1840) Battersea was much in evidence as a residential suburb, some of the best families having their mansions in Batter- sea. On the site of Messrs. Arding & Hobbs, Ltd., stood the home of Tom Taylor, the dramatic author, and on the opposite corner where Messrs. Hastings, Ltd., have their premises, the old house known as "The Chestnuts," was occupied by Bogle Smith, Esq., banker, and trustee of Sir Walter St. John's Schools ; it was afterwards the resi- dence of Mrs. Sterling, an actress of note in her time.

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18 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

In Falcon Lane, where David Thomas's shops are, was Fowne's glove factory, which extended nearly as far as the corner of York Road. Where the dispensary now stands at the corner of High Street, there was a pound for impounding stray cattle, and in the centre of the road was a pond of stagnant water. From the corner of High Street down to the railway station, were the grounds and gardens belonging to the old "Manor House," the resi- dence of Sir Charles and Lady Nugent, which stood on the site of the station. A short distance from the " Manor House" stood a fine old mansion known as " The Lapa- dary," occupied by Mr. Stirling, then coroner for London, he was also famed as a breeder of race horses. The next house of note was " The Priory," in Battersea Square, which was the home of Captain Clayton, R.N., a great friend of Sir Charles Napier, who was a frequent visitor to " The Priory."

Several imposing mansions stood in Battersea Square, one of these was occupied by Miss Ridley, who kept a staff of liveried servants, another was the residence of Dr. Conner, a well-known surgeon in his day. Mr. Miller, the famous barge builder, also lived in the square.

In 1855 tne original Sir Walter St. John's Schools were pulled down, before this it had been a boy and girl's school, but after the girls had been transferred to the Green Lane School, the upper part of the building was transformed into a library under the title of " The Battersea Library and Scientific Institute ; " the subscrip- tion was 2s. 6d. per quarter, which entitled members to have books, attend lectures, and be members of the old Battersea Cricket Club.

At this time the Principal of St. John's Training College was Mr. Jackson, who afterwards became the first Bishop of New Zealand. Sir Samuel Clark, the great linguist, was another noted principal of the College.

The Southland Training College was a very fine man- sion, known as " The Retreat," which was built by order of

LATER BATTERSEA. 19

the Duchess of Angouleme, as a refuge for the people oi her country during the French Revolution. Its name was changed by Sir George Pollock, who resided there in the early forties.

What is now Lombard Road was then a rural lane full of fine houses, and was known as Industrial Grove, Mr. Spiller lived here, he built " The Rainbow," which was the first steamer to carry passengers on the Thames, his house stood where Wiffin's factory now stands. Miss McKeller also lived in this road, she was a wealthy lady who bequeathed half a million of money to charities. "Walnut Tree Lodge " was another mansion in the road, it was the home of West, the artist, and close by stood another well- known house, " The Cane," which was the residence of Mr. Long, of the Bank of England, who took an active part in obtaining the grant of land for Battersea Park.

Surrey Lane was a cool retreat in the summer, over- arching trees formed a green canopy of shelter from the sun's heat, wide stretching verdure reached as far as the eye could travel, near by stood the old riverside house where Lord Mornington composed "Here in cool Grot," and not far away stood " Era House." An ancient man- sion stood in Surrey Lane which was said by some old chroniclers to have been the residence of Queen Elizabeth, but not much is known about its history. It was demol- ished in i860. Battersea Square was the village proper, cut off from the world by field and waste land. Bridge Road West was pretty with its numerous trees and neat villas, it was then quite in the suburbs. Church Street was the abode of the poor. Ford's Folly made no pretence of respectability, Bridge Road was only half built, the first police station was built there in 1859. Ethelburga Street was then known as Marsh Lane and had only a few houses in it. Latchmere Road was called The Piggery, while Sheepcote Lane was Sheepgut Lane. This part of Batter- sea was nearly all market gardens. One gardener had forty acres of asparagus under cultivation, and at one time

20 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

there were three hundred acres of market gardens within a mile of the parish church. There was no railway com- munications, the nearest stations being Vauxhall and Wandsworth.

The only churches in Battersea prior to Christ Church were St. Mary's and St. George's, near the Fields. The vicar at this time was the Rev. Eden, afterwards bishop of Sodor-and-Man. On Sunday mornings the road was lined with carriages waiting to take their owners home after the service. The organist was Dr. Wagstaff, the composer, he was succeeded by Mr. John Nicholson, who was blind. He used to walk, always unattended, to the South London Blind School to teach the blind.

Turner, the artist, when he lived at Chelsea, was a great admirer of the scenery around Battersea and the river. Thornbury says that on the day he died he re- quested his landlady to wheel his chair to the window that he might see the river sunset he loved so well, and the sails of the boats glinting with the passing sunset below Battersea Reach.

Carlyle, the Chelsea sage, was a frequent visitor to Battersea in the fifties, he used to ride an old nag, and envelop his shoulders in a cloak of antique fashion ; with bent head and stooping form, as if in deep thought, he used to enjoy the fresh Surrey air, and he could be seen on Lavender Hill, or on his way round the Common, several times a week when the weather was fine.

About 1840 saw the close of the old coach service, which had been commenced early in the nineteenth cen- tury, when two-horsed coaches took passengers to and from London daily, these coaches went from "The Raven," in the High Street, and in 1826 there was an increased service of omnibusses from other parts of Battersea. The first railway into Battersea was the Southampton line, which was opened in 1838, the station was at Nine Elms. The Battersea station in Falcon Lane was not built until 1845, and became Clapham Junction station on the opening

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of the Richmond line in 1846. The line to Waterloo was opened in 1848.

The following description of a railway journey from Battersea to Wimbledon appeared in 1846: " Leaving the Nine Elms station you have an excellent view of Battersea Fields to the right, and of Battersea Rise, Clapham Com- mon, and Wandsworth Rise to the left, but the first glimpse of unequivocal scenery you lay your eye on is Garrett Mill, near Wandsworth, for as you whisk past, you cannot avoid remarking what a sweet little spot it is ! the mill half hid- den among trees, the mill pond tastefully planted, with embowering walks meandering through the emerald turf; a little verdant isle in the midst, with its straw roofed hermitage, convince you that taste has evidently formed and preserved that little spot. The river Wandle is classic too, it is the " blue transparent Vandalir," as the poet called it, the favourite haunt of Izaak Walton, and is well known for its peculiar variety of trout, which have marbled vSpots like a tortoise."

A project was brought forward in 1879 for a new bridge across the Thames, to replace the old timber one which had become dangerous to traffic, and a Bill was brought in Parliament, and after some opposition as to the position the bridge should occupy, the foundation of the present one was laid in 1885.

Battersea has been much disparaged in the past; in the early part of the nineteenth century " Go to Battersea " was a by-word much used by Londoners who wished to show contempt for their fellows, as at a later date "Go to Putney," and " Go to Bath," were used in the same term.

Battersea, like many other boroughs and towns, has it's dark side, but it is not darker than the seamy side of Westminster and other places where wealth abounds. Still, Battersea had some black spots in the early fifties, one writer about that time described it as "the sink-hole of Surrey," strong language, yet not without some reason for it. There were gambling, drinking, and other iniquities of

22 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

the Red House. Stewarts Lane had so many bad charac- ters in it that it became known as " Hell's Corner," while the drinking carnivals on Battersea Fields every Sunday were beyond description. Another black spot was Kuropa Place, which was known as the home of the forty thieves, and designated "Little Hell," and there were other places in Battersea about this time which were little better than dens of infamy. We have improved much during the half- century which has passed ; the schoolmaster has been abroad, and other influences have been at work for the betterment of humanity.

About sixty years ago Dr. Watson exhibited, near Battersea, a process by which he applied the power of elec- tricity to produce light; he also obtained colour by the same process, which is thus described in the papers of that date: "The great feature of the invention is, that the materials consumed in the production of electricity are employed for a profitable purpose independent of that ot illumination. Thus, while a most brilliant light is pro- duced by galvanic action, materials are introduced into the battery by which pigments of the finest quality are obtained, and these are so valuable that they equal, if they do not exceed, the cost of the operation. The pigments are, of course, first obtained in a liquid state, but they pass through a filtering and drying process, which not only ren- ders them available for ordinary purposes, but creates varieties of tint when the colour is the same. If the result of the inventor's discovery answers his expectations, this double employment of electricity will be a valuable addition to practical science, since we may literally have light for nothing, the illuminator being paid with his own pigments."

Some time after this Dr. Watson fixed two of his electric lamps on a steamboat, one on each side by the paddle-box; the vessel made a journey from Battersea to Gravesend, leaving Battersea about 8.30 p.m., several pressmen were on board, who thus describe the journey :

LATER BATTERSEA. 23

"The lamps intensely illuminated both banks of the river, shedding a flood of light on the objects and edifices in the way, including the Chelsea College, both Houses of Par- liament, St. Paul's, and Greenwich Hospital. The effect as seen from the several bridges is said to have been remarkably striking and beautiful. The shipping in the port below London Bridge was as conspicuously seen as in the light of day, a most important fact in relation to the subject of safety to life at sea, and the national question of a perfect system of lighthouses on the British coast." The steamer returned to Battersea about 3 a.m.

Klectricity has marched a long way on the road of science since the days of Dr. Watson, who was one of that hopeful little band of scientists who never lost faith in the great future which lay before the power of electricity.

CHAPTER IV.

THE COMMONS.

THE commons of Great Britain are pasture or waste lands, which have never been appropriated, but have always been used in common by the inhabitants of the district in which the commons were situated. In Battersea, Clapham and Wandsworth, extensive common rights existed. The chief use of the commons in by-gone times was for feeding cattle belonging to the people of the district, who reserved some parts of the commons for meadow land, for the purpose of making hay, by which the cattle were fed in the winter. By this means the people were enabled to feed their cattle and increase their stock at little expense.

One-sixteenth part of all commons were claimed by the lord of the manor, or, where one did not exist, it was claimed by the Crown, the remainder belonged to the people of the parish or district in which the land was situated. At one time ditches formed the dividing line between one parish and another. Until the passing of the Metropolitan Board of Works Act, the fund for keeping the commons was collected in the parish annually.

There was also public land known as common fields. These were small tracts of land, many of which were under cultivation. These common fields also belonged to the parish for the common good.

One of these common fields was in Battersea, a large tract of waste land situated between the Battersea Fields and Pig Hill, leading to what is now Lavender Hill, and was known as the I,atchmoor Common. Under the power

THE COMMONS. 25

of an old Parliamentary Act dating back to William IV., the overseer of any parish had the power to enclose waste or common land lying in or near the parish the land enclosed not to exceed fifty acres ; they had to cultivate and improve such waste land for the use and benefit of their parish, and also had the power to let such enclosed land in allotments to the inhabitants of the parish to be cultivated on their own account. Taking advantage of this Act, the churchwardens and overseers of Battersea enclosed about sixteen acres of Latchmoor Common and let it out in allotments, at a low rental, to the residents of the parish, for the cultivation of vege- tables, etc. When Pig Hill became Latchmere Road this land was known as the Latchmere allotments. The site is now covered with property belonging to the Battersea Corporation. Battersea Fields were common land, and it required an Act of Parliament to form them into a park.

About 1796 Acts of Parliament were passed for the purpose of enclosing land belonging to the commons and the common fields. By this means many of the com- mons have been much curtailed, and the land taken from the people. During the last century large portions of Battersea, Clapham and Wandsworth Commons have been taken in, nearly sixty enclosures, comprising over five hundred acres of land, have been taken from the commons without payment, leaving only about one hundred and ninety acres, which were saved after a severe fight, and a cost of nearly ^3,000. Over two hundred acres of this common land has been taken by railway companies. The builder has also taken large slices whenever he had a chance. In 1760 the men of Battersea formed a Land Defence Association. The members went about breaking down illegal fences and trespass notices, defending cases in the Courts, and in other ways frustrating the land thief. The public of to-day can judge how much of their land has been stolen, when only fifty years ago a portion of com- mon land existed at the junction of Falcon Road with

26 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Lavender Hill, showing that the commons had reached down to this point at one time.

The greater portion of the land abutting on Trinity Road, Windmill Road, and Earlsfield Road was common land, and all around the common can be traced the hand of the land-grabber.

One of the most ancient commons was Penge Com- mon, which dated from the time of the Saxons. It is mentioned in Domesday Book as a common having accom- modation for the feeding of fifty hogs belonging to the people of the parish. Part of this common was in exist- ence down to 1827, when an Act was passed to enclose it, but nearly four hundred acres had been taken before that time, and since that date it has entirely disappeared, like much more of the public land in various parts of the country.

Among old records dating from 17 16, the following notes show that some rivalry existed between Battersea and Clapham, regarding the boundary of the commons which at an earlier date had existed, showing the portions which belonged to each parish.

The men of Battersea, finding that their portion of the common was being stocked with cattle belonging to the inhabitants of Clapham, separated their land from that which belonged to Clapham, by digging a deep ditch and throwing up earth works. They also put gates across the road and footpath to prevent Clapham parish common- ing with Battersea. They contended that the people of Clapham could not claim any right to use the Battersea part of the common, and that the boundary was an ancient ditch which divided the two commons, they also held that the copy holders of the Manor of Battersea had a right to separate the two commons.

After much wrangling and many unseemly scenes, which took place between the rival parishes, legal opinion was taken on the whole question, and as far as can be gathered from the old records, the opinion was that the

THE COMMONS. 27

inhabitants of Clapham had no legal right to allow cattle to graze upon the Battersea portion of the common, also that the Lord of the Manor of Battersea had the power to enclose that portion of the common, and exclude the inhabitants of Clapham, and not allow their cattle to feed there ; for the usage had always been that the people of Clapham had driven their cattle upon their own common land, and the cattle must have strayed upon the common of Battersea where the boundaries were effaced.

When this opinion had been given, the Battersea men annexed what they considered their portion of the com- mon by digging a ditch from Wix's lane to some distance beyond the Mount pond. This was no sooner done than the men of Clapham commenced filling the ditch in again, more disturbances took place, and the common was the scene of many free fights and other disorderly scenes, until the Lord of the Manor of Battersea (Viscount St. John) brought an action for trespass against Clapham, the case was tried at Kingston in 1718, when the plantift was non-suited.

A certain portion of this common land, as shown in old deeds, has always been held on lease to Earl Spencer; how this came about is not very clear.

The land-grabber has ever been an active individual around Battersea as in other parts of Great Britain, hence we find that only a comparatively small area of our com- mons now remain.

CHAPTER V.

BATTERSEA FIELDS.

WHEN Battersea was a remote and isolated village at the commencement of the eighteenth century, Battersea Fields were a large stretch of marsh}'', common land fronting the river. Rocque's map of London, published in 1745, shows the extent of this land to cover a very much wider area than it did in 1853, when it was con- verted into a park. At this date the Fields were a despised oasis, flanked with a few ramshackle huts, inhabited by a class of people who made day hideous and night dan- gerous, for it was not safe for decent people to pass " the dismal swamp " after dark, as highwaymen and footpads infested the roads, and many an incident that is best hid in the shadows of the past occurred on the lonely road between Battersea Fields and Nine Elms.

At a later date a kind of carnival of folly was held every Sunday in the vicinity of the Fields. From all parts of London came the residuum of its population, bent upon pleasure of the most objectionable kind, and sport of the lowest order: dog fighting, badger baiting, rabbit coursing, etc., and the general conduct of the persons who frequented these meetings was beyond description ; it made right thinking people shudder with horror, for gambling and drinking to excess held the sway. Few of the Battersea people attended these Sunday fairs, the crowds were mostly composed of the scum of London.

A curious sight on Sunday mornings was the number of small carts, drawn by dogs, coming from all parts of London to the sports in Battersea Fields, some of them

BATTERSEA FIELDS. 29

having come a distance of twenty miles. These dogs were very strong and large, something like a mastiff, but of a cross breed. The owners used to give them bread soaked in beer when on a journey, to keep them going. During the week the dogs were employed to take the produce of the market gardens to the various markets, and were used for doing all sorts of light work, but some of the owners of dog-carts used the animals so cruelly that an Act was passed about the middle of the nineteenth century making it illegal to use dogs as beasts of burden. Those carts were the origin of the term " dog-cart."

Near Battersea Fields stood the Balloon Gardens, a place of general entertainment, connected with which was a ball room and a bowling green, it was much frequented by the young bloods of that time. In the early fifties an ox was roasted on Battersea Fields to commemorate the success of James Searle, a celebrated walker, who was the first man to walk one thousand miles in one thousand hours.

Many duels were fought during the early part of the nineteenth century on Battersea Fields, but the most famous was the duel between Lord Winchelsea and the Duke of Wellington in 1829. The cause of the duel arose in the following manner : the Karl of Winchelsea was a bitter opponent of the Catholic Emancipation Bill, which was being discussed by the Lords, his language was most violent and he declared that the Duke of Wellington, who was piloting the Bill through the House, carried on an insidious design for the infringement of our liberties and the introduction of Popery into every department oi the State. The Duke promptly denied this, and called upon him to withdraw the aspersion, and upon Winchelsea declining, the Duke challenged him, the result was that a duel was arranged to be fought on Battersea Fields. Lord Falmouth attended Lord Winchelsea as his second. A large concourse of people assembled to see the "sport" ; before the duel commenced Lord Falmouth rode

3o HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

up to the Duke and handed him a paper, which the Duke read, after which he returned it, saying, " No, no ! that won't do, it is not a full apology." Upon this reply Lord Falmouth returned to where Lord Winchelsea stood, giving him the Duke's message. As he took up his position Lord Winchelsea, who was quite unnerved, was heard to say to his second, "This is quite a mistake." The Duke fired first without injury, Lord Winchelsea then elevated his pistol and fired in the air, he did this, as he afterwards explained, because he believed himself to be in the wrong. Sir Henry Hardinge, the Duke's second, gave Lord Win- chelsea a severe rebuke. "And now sir," he said, "without making any insidious reflections, I cannot help remarking that, whether wisely or unwisely the world will judge, you have been the cause of bringing this man into the field where, during the whole course of a long military career, he never was before." Lord Falmouth here turned to his unhappy principal and declared he always thought, and had told him that he was completely in the wrong. When Lord Winchelsea attempted to vindicate himself, the Duke haughtily replied : " My Lord Falmouth, I have nothing to do with these matters." He then touched his hat with two fingers, saying, " Good morning, my Lord Winchelsea ; good morning, my Lord Falmouth," and rode away.

In 1843 Mr. Thomas Cubitt suggested to the Parlia- mentary Commissioners the laying out of the Fields as a Royal Park, in this he was ably supported by Mr. Long, a high official in the Bank of Kngland, and resident in Battersea. These gentlemen made a strong protest against the rowdy and indecent conduct which was carried on, and advocated a plan for reclaiming the land on the foreshore, which was to be added to the projected park. They met with much opposition from a section of the inhabitants of Battersea, but as other public spirited men came to their support, the plans for the formation of the park were agreed to, and an Act was passed through

BATTERSEA FIELDS. 31

Parliament in 1846, giving powers for making a Royal Park by the purchase of three hundred and sixty acres of land in the Fields, two hundred of which were allotted for the formation of the park. Some very ancient oak trees grew in the Fields, and can now be seen in the park, these are almost the only specimens of old trees in the park, nearly all the others were planted as saplings when the park was made. The park took nearly eleven years to complete, a large portion of the land being bog, which had to be made up and converted into solid ground. As the Surrey Commercial Docks were being excavated at the same time as the park was being made, the material was used for filling in the marsh land on the Fields.

The park was opened in 1853. ,£1,500 was paid to the Battersea parish for " Lammas " rights over the Fields. Captain Marryat, in his novel "Jacob Faithful," refers to Battersea Fields as they were in his day.

CHAPTER VI. BATTERSEA WORTHIES.

Owen Ridley.

A NOTABLE vicar of Battersea was Owen Ridle}', who was minister of the parish in 1570. He was one of those unfortunate men who live before their time, and as a result are constantly being misunderstood. He was not popular with his parishioners, but much of this may be put down to the superstitions of the times in which he lived, he was a man of much breadth of mind and thought, and this led some of the ignorant and narrow minded to impute all kinds of wrong motives to whatever he did.

He was brought to trial on two occasions, once he was charged with witchcraft, it being alleged that he had had converse with witches, this was a very protracted trial, but resulted in Ridley being acquitted. Like his great name- sake he seems to have had strong faith in the triumph of truth.

Henry Elsynge.

A man of some note in his day was Henry Elsynge, who was born at Battersea in 1598, and was educated at Christ Church, Oxford. He afterwards became a famous traveller, visiting many foreign countries, which was a great undertaking in those days of slow locomotion. He was also a man of much literary ability, and had other accomplishments. The notorious Archbishop Laud took a great interest in his welfare, and through his influence

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BA TTERSEA WOR THIES. 33

Elsynge obtained an appointment as clerk of the House of Commons, a post of great importance at that time. While he remained in the House he had the confidence of all parties, as he discharged his duties with integrity and ability, for which he received commendation from many ministers of the crown. He held this position for some years, and only resigned his post when a junto of the House attempted to seize the reigns of government, for he considered it his duty to resign his position, rather than to be concerned in such proceedings, which he was of opinion would be subversive to the Constitution.

After his retirement from the House of Commons he lived at Huntslow, where he occupied his time in literary work. He wrote many books, but his best known works were, "The ancient method and manner of holding Parlia- ments in England," which is of an historical nature, and another book, a small volume dealing with proceedings in the Parliaments of his day. Both these works were well received in the book world and had a large sale. Elsynge died in 1654.

Dr. Thomas Temple.

This old Battersea worthy was vicar in 1634. Dr. Thomas Temple was the brother of Sir John Temple, the Irish Master of the Rolls. He was incumbent of the Parish of Battersea during the tempestuous times of the Civil War; Cromwell had a high opinion of him, and appointed him to assist the Committee which he had formed for the purpose of displacing ignorant and in- efficient schoolmasters and ministers. He did his work without bias or prejudice, and so pleased Cromwell that he gave him other appointments. He often preached before the Iyong Parliament, and many of those sermons were published.

C

34 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Henry St. John.

Lord Viscount Boungbroke.

Battersea cannot boast of being the home of many men who have impressed their name upon the pages of history, but one name stands out clear and distinct — Lord Boling- broke — who was one of Battersea's greatest citizens. He was born at Bolingbroke House, the seat of his grand- father, Sir Henry St. John, in the year 1678. The St. John family took the title of Bolingbroke from the name of a town of great antiquity in Lincolnshire.

The St. John family was distinguished for its attach- ment to popular rights, and several of the line died in the cause of England's liberties. History says very little about the early life of Bolingbroke, the first we hear of him is that he was placed under the tuition of Daniel Burgess, who was a celebrated divine. He afterwards went to Eton, where he became acquainted with Sir Robert Walpole, who afterwards was his bitter enemy and remained so to the end of his life. From Eton he went to Christ Church, Oxford, where he threw off all the puritan teaching in which he had been trained. When his college days were finished, he led a gay and profligate life, remarkable even for the age in which he lived ; his father, in order to reclaim him, persuaded him to marry the daughter of Sir Henry Winchescomb, a lady of high character. For some time after his marriage his mode of living was much improved, but he was soon back again into his old habits, his wife charged him with the most shameless infidelity, and in the year 1700 they parted.

At this time Bolingbroke had been returned as Mem- ber of Parliament for Wootten Basset, and, through the influence of the Duke of Marlborough, joined the Tory party in 1704, much to the distress of his family, who were strong supporters of the Whig party. In 1705 he became

BATTERSEA WORTHIES. 35

Secretary of War, which office he held until 1707, when he lost his seat, and was out of Parliament till 1709, when he was elected for Berkshire. Although his family were in favour of the Whig policy he still supported the Tory party, and was one of the chief upholders of the Treaty of Utrecht, and a Bill by which dissenters were forbidden to instruct their children in religion. Extremely active in the House of Commons, he impressed on all men, by his readiness both to speak and act, a high respect for his talent and enterprise. Though sprung from a Whig family, he was himself a decided Tory, and, as such, was closely leagued with Harley in all political measures. So intimate was the alliance between them that when, in 1707, Harley was dismissed from office, in consequence of the discovery of his intrigues, St. John chose to follow his fortunes, and gave in his resignation on the day following. He was not elected to the next Parliament, but employed the two years of his retirement in hard study, and he subsequently declared this to have been the most serviceable part of his life.

When the Protestant succession was firmly established, Addison was appointed to the foreign secretaryship, which had been held by Bolingbroke, who had to deliver up all papers belonging to his office. Soon after giving up this office he had to flee from the country, to prevent himself being charged with high treason. His old schoolfellow, Walpole, moved in the House of Commons that a Bill of Attainder be brought against him, which was agreed to. Bolingbroke had now joined the forces which raised the rebellion of 17 15, but with no success, and it was with no little pleasure that he received from the Earl of Stair, the English ambassador at Paris, an intimation of the king's favourable disposition to him, and he now turned all his thoughts to effecting a reconciliation with his enemies, the Whigs. We learn from Horace Walpole's letters that he made professions of the most implicit submission and sup- port to the Whig government ; and as an earnest of his

36 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

anxiety to serve them, published in 17 17 his celebrated letter to Sir W. Wyndham, in which he displayed, with great effect, the insignificance and folly of the pretender's party. Though it is confessed that this production gave a death-blow to the Jacobite cause, it does not appear that it effected Bolingbroke's real object, for he was still unable to return to England. During the early part of his exile his first wife had died, and he married the widow of the Marquis de Villette, and niece of the celebrated Madam Maintenon, a woman of great beauty and talent, in whose society, aided by the philosophical spirit which circum- stances had forced upon him, and by the glittering gaieties of the French capital, he passed his time as happily as could be expected for a spirit burning with the desire for action, and yet pent up in an inglorious idleness. In 1723 he obtained from England a pardon as to his per- sonal safety, but which restored him neither to his title, inheritance, or to his seat in Parliament. In consequence of this act of favour he returned to England. Just as he was about to embark on the packet-boat at Calais, he met with his ancient ally Atterbury, who, after weathering the storm which had burst on the head of Bolingbroke, was now setting out on a banishment for new offences, at the very time that his former coadjutor was returning. As soon as Bolingbroke arrived in England, he used all his arts and energy to obtain the reversal of his attainder, not scrupling to humble himself to degradation before his enemy Walpole, that he might accomplish his object ; and his efforts were so far successful that in two years after his return from banishment his family estate was restored to him, and he was allowed to possess any other estate in the kingdom which he might think proper to purchase. This remission of his sentence has always been charged upon Walpole as one of the most unwise acts of his administra- tion ; but Coke, in his life of that statesman, shows pretty clearly that it was a measure unwillingly brought forward by Walpole, in obedience to the express commands of his

BATTERSEA WORTHIES. 37

sovereign, whose ear Bolingbroke had contrived in some way to gain.

For ten years Bolingbroke remained in political shade, during which time he wrote many of his best works, he also wrote some bitter letters to The Craftsman, attacking his old enemy Walpole, who was then premier. Finding that his influence and power had left him, he wrote to his friend Wyndham as follows : — " I am a proscribed man surrounded with difficulties, my part is over, and he who remains upon the stage when his part is finished deserves to be hissed off?' Before retiring from public life he wrote his great book, " Dissertations on Parties," which has been pronounced the best of all his political writings.

He again went to France in 1736, where he devoted himself to study and writing his book on "The Study and Use of History," which created a storm of abuse. About this time he became acquainted with Voltaire, whose in- fluence had a great deal to do with changing Bolingbroke's views on the Christian faith. After remaining a few years at Fontainebleau, he returned to England on the death of his father, and took up his residence at the family seat in Battersea, where he wrote his letters on " Patriotism," and other works, his last work being an essay on " The State of the Nation " which was not completed when he died. At this time Pope, Chatham and Pitt were constant visitors to Bolingbroke House.

Early in 1751 Bolingbroke had a severe illness, from which he died on November 15th in the same year, and was buried in the parish church of St. Mary, in a tomb of white and grey marble designed by Roubilliac, who designed the famous statue of Sir Isaac Newton, which stands in Trinity College, Cambridge. This monument bears the following inscription : " Here lies Henry St. John, in the reign of Queen Anne, Secretary of War, Secretary of State and Viscount Bolingbroke ; in the days of King George I., and King George II. something more and better. His attachment to Queen Anne exposed him to a long and

38 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

severe persecution ; he bore it with firmness of mind. He passed the latter part of his life at home, the enemy of no national party, the friend of no faction ; distinguished under the cloud of proscription, which had not been entirely taken off, by zeal to maintain the liberty and to restore the ancient prosperity of Great Britain." To the end he maintained his infidelity, his last orders were that no clergymen should be admitted to his chamber. Among the unpublished productions of his pen was found manuscripts of one of his best essays on " Human Knowledge."

A writer in the last century thus sums up the character of Bolingbroke :

" Bolingbroke's abilities were exactly of that stamp which astonish and fascinate those who come into personal contact with their possessor, — more brilliant than solid, — more showy than substantial. His mind was not a pro- found one ; but what it wanted in this respect was atoned for by its readiness and acuteness. He seemed to grasp everything by intuition, and no sooner had he made him- self master of a proposition or an argument, than his astonishing memory enabled him to bring forth vast stores of information and illustration at a moment's warning. Endowed with a brilliant imagination, — a prodigious flow of words, — a style which fascinates the hearer by the incomparable beauty of the language and the bounding elasticity of the sentences, — and an extraordinary power of presenting his conceptions in the clearest possible light, his contemporaries looked upon him as one of those rare beings who seemed to be endowed with a nature superior to that of common mortality, and who stoop down to the world only to evince their mastery of all its lore, and their superiority to its inhabitants. But, dazzled as they were by the vast surface of the stream, they forgot to enquire into its depth. We, in modern times, who know nothing of the artificial splendour with which a " form excelling human," — a manner that seemed given to sway mankind,

BATTERSEA WORTHIES. 39

— and a most dazzling style of conversation, invested the name of Boliugbroke, are perhaps inclined, by the exag- geration of the praise once lavished on him, to do him but scanty justice. Nevertheless, it must strike the reader of his works, that he nowhere exhibits a power of carrying on a continuous train of thought ; that he never fairly grapples with any subject, but contents himself with point- ing out its weaknesses and illustrating its minor features ; that no lofty thought, or original reflection escapes from him : that he is an acute observer but a shallow thinker, — a clever rhetorician, but an illogical reasoner. His politi- cal writings are indeed occasionally distinguished by a vigorous and well-conducted style of argumentation ; but we know no more tame and impotent specimens of deduc- tion than his " Philosophical Essays." The boasted First Philosophy is founded on a congeries of confuted fallacies and shallow sophistries, on which it would be impossible to build any edifice more substantial than a limbo oi vanity.

The unabashed assurance with which he pronounces his dictum on the merits of his predecessors and contemp- oraries,— the tacit assumption which he makes of his own superiority, — the various character and prodigious extent of his erudition, superficial as it unquestionably was, — the variety and happiness of his illustrations, — the brilliancy of his metaphors, — and above all the inimitable graces of his style, combining with the form of an essay the spirit fire of an oration, have imposed upon the vulgar ; aud but those who can look beneath the surface will discover, without much difficulty, that the inside of the cup and the platter is scarcely answerable to the splendour of the external show.

Nothing can be more absurd than the attempt which has been made to represent Bolingbroke as a man more sinned against than sinning, and animated at heart by a sincere desire to serve his country, though occasionally the ardour of his passions drove him into perilous errors, li

40 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

there be one feature of his character which stands out more prominently than another, it is an utter and heartless want of principle. From the commencement of his career down to the day of his death, personal ambition, or the spleen of the moment, was the mainspring of his actions. Signal- izing his entrance upon public life by a desertion of the principles in which he had been educated, — voluntarily becoming the most active persecutor of his earliest friends and connections, — professing to forward his own ambitious views, devoted attachment to a religion whose ministers he insulted, and whose altars he despised, — intriguing with a favourite, and corresponding with an exiled tyrant to sup- plant his colleague, — solemnly protesting his adherence to the Hanoverian succession, at the very time he was filling his projected cabinet with zealous Jacobites, — cring- ing to the minister by whom he had been impeached and exiled, — assuring that minister of his friendship and sup- port until he had obtained all the favours that could be granted, and then, with shameless ingratitude, organizing against him the most deadly opposition, — inveighing against parties, and himself the ringleader of the bitterest of factions, lauding the prerogative to flatter a sovereign, and declaiming for a liberty bordering upon licentiousness, to embarrass a ministry, — are traits in the character of this " ingrate and cankered Bolingbroke," which it would be cant and not candour, weakness and not wisdom, to forget or to forgive. Nothing could be more ludicrously incon- sistent than his professions of adherence to a family which had been driven from the throne for its attacks on popular rights, contrasted with the fiery vehemence of his tirades against the Whigs for attempting to enslave the nation. We defy any one to point out writings more deeply imbued with Whig principles, or more opposed to the political principles of Mr. St. John, than the letters in The Crafts- man, those on the " History of England," and the " Dis- sertation on Parties," by My L,ord Bolingbroke. Yet, in spite of this want of consistency, Bolingbroke never fell

BATTERSEA WORTHIES. 41

into the contempt which overtook his colleague and rival Harley, and which seldom fails to overtake all those who embark on the voyage of life without the ballast of honesty. Perhaps no two men actuated in the main by similar motives, and presenting certain general points of resemblance, ever differed more widely than Harley and Bolingbroke. Each was actuated chiefly by a love of power, — each was ready to stoop to any device for the in- crease or preservation of that power, — each acknowledged no ties of gratitude, and no laws of honour."

Bolingbroke, however, left his mark on literature and the history of his time. He was the companion and some- times the friend of many of the foremost men of his day. Lord Chesterfield said that until he had read Bolingbroke's works he did not know the extent and power of the English language. Pitt, the younger, always gave great credit to the speeches and writings of Bolingbroke. Pope also praised his writings as being of a very high order of merit. There were about him some elements to admire, his indomitable energy, high intellect, and invincible spirit under difficulties.

Bolingbroke's works were published in five volumes by Mallett in 1755. His Letters and Correspondence were published by G. Parke in two volumes (1798), and his " Life and Works " by Goldsmith in eight volumes (1809).

Bishop Patrick.

This learned bishop was vicar of Battersea in 1657, ne was also domestic chaplain to Sir Walter St. John. He published several pamphlets dealing with religious sub- jects, all of which he dedicated to his patron Sir Walter St. John. He was a firm Protestant with strong con- victions. He once entered into a controversy with two Roman Catholic priests before King James II., who at the conclusion said, "I never heard so good a cause so ill

42 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

defended, or a bad one so well." Patrick was afterwards appointed Bishop of Winchester, and later of Ely. When he died in 1707 he left a collection of printed works, mostly on religious subjects, devotional and controversial, to William Lowth, father of the then Bishop of London.

Dr. Thomas Church.

This divine became notorious in his day for his con- troversial attacks upon the Revs. John Wesley and Whit- field, the great dissenters, and his defence of the early ages of Christianity. Iyord Bolingbroke, at one time was his patron, but in 1755 Doctor Church made some scathing comments on Bolingbroke's life and works in a book which he published anonymously, entitled, "An Analysis of the Works of Lord Bolingbroke." This work was very severe and created a deal of comment. He died vicar of Batter- sea in 1756, at the age of forty-nine.

William Wilberforce.

Although Battersea cannot claim Wilberforce as a native, it can rightfully claim him as a citizen, for it was in Battersea the best part of his life was spent, and much of his Parliamentary work was planned in his house in Broomwood Road, and that of Mr. Henry Thornton, on Battersea Rise (afterwards the residence of Mr. Percy Thornton, M.P.), where he met some of the foremost poli- ticians of his time. In his house " Broomfield," he often conferred with Clarkson, Burton, Macaulay, Granville Sharp, and Ramsey ; when they were carrying on their great work against slavery, their plans and projects were nearly all arranged in this historic house.

In many of his letters written to friends in Yorkshire, he refers to Battersea and the beautiful county of Surrey,

WILLIAM WILRKRFORCE, 1780.

BATTERSEA WORTHIES. 43

for which he has nothing but praise ; frequent passages in his diary also refer to Battersea.

Wilberforce was born at Hull, August 24th, 1759, and at nine years of age was sent to live with an uncle at Wimbledon. His first school was at Putney where, he once said, " they taught everything, but I learnt nothing." He remained at this school for two years, after which he was sent to the Hull Grammar School, and at the age of seventeen was transferred to St. John's College, Cambridge, to complete his education. While at college he met Pitt, with whom he formed a life-long friendship. When his college days were over he inherited a large fortune and entered public life ; he sought a seat in Parliament in his native city, and was returned as member for Hull in 1780. It was at one of his political meetings during this election that his sister made a clever don mot. As she came upon the platform the audience with loud cheers shouted, " Miss Wilberforce for ever," when the cheers had subsided she came forward and thanked them for their kind reception, then, with a smile, said, " But to tell you the truth, I do not wish to be Miss Wilberforce for ever."

His maiden speech in the House made a good impres- sion, and L,ord North complimented him, but his work in Parliament was not of much note until he took up the slave question, and he was induced to do this by reading a book written by the Rev. James Ramsey on the " Slave Trade." Ramsey was the pioneer and first mover in the agitation against the traffic in human beings ; Clarksou, Sharpe, and others took up the work, but it was Ramsey who bore the first brunt of the battle. Years after the victory was won, Wilberforce paid a high tribute to his memory, in which he said that Ramsey for years had fought in the great cause almost alone, until he sank under the burden of the strife, killed by the virulence of those who upheld the slave-owners. Again in 1789, Wilberforce, writing to a friend, says, " Poor Ramsey is dead, his wounded spirit has bowed before the storm and the malig-

44 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

nant calumnies heaped upon him." Few historians men- tion James Ramsey as the pioneer of slave emancipation for he fell too early in the battle, but Wilberforce always remembered him as the great influence which decided him to take up the cause of the slaves.

In November, 1792, writing to a friend, Wilberforce says, " Henry Thornton has bought L,ubbock House at Battersea Rise, and I am to share it with him, and pay so much per annum. Last night, with Grant and Thornton, I went over the grounds, they are in lovely condition, and the house is well situated, surrounded by Clapham Common."

Wilberforce now took up his work for the suppression of the slave-trade in the belief that God had called him to the strife, and armed him to fight for the liberty of the oppressed. He made every other interest subservient to the abolition cause, working almost night and day with Clarkson and his committee, of which Granville Sharp was chairman. Two days before the debate in the House, he met Fox, Pitt, and Grey at his house on Battersea Rise, where they debated the Slave Bill. When the question was before the House, Wilberforce spoke for three hours with immense effect. Burke said " that the nation and the whole of Europe were under obligation to the hon. member for one of the finest speeches ever heard in that House, which was not surpassed by the Grecian eloquence." But the time for emancipation had not yet come, the public conscience had not been awakened. Those in the slave- trade who were amassing their gold in the unholy traffic were not going to give it up without a severe struggle. The voices of Buxton, Sharpe, Clarkson, Stephens, and Macaulay were sending their clarion notes throughout the land on behalf of the helpless black.

In the first session of the 1796 Parliament, Wilberforce again brought up his Slave Bill, and was again defeated. He had now given up his fortune to the cause, the large expenditure of money which was required to carry on the

BATTERSEA WORTHIES. 45

work caused a great strain upon his purse, and his heart often sickened at seeing his energy and money sacrificed through the apathy of luke-warm friends, and the intrigues of interested enemies ; yet he was cheered in his work by many true friends who recognised the great battle he was fighting in the cause of humanity. John Wesley, during his last illness, wrote to Wilberforce a letter of great encouragement, "God be with you," he said, "may you succeed in your glorious work against this scandal of religion, of Kngland, and of human nature. Unless God has raised you up for this work you will be worn out by the opposition of men and devils. Go on in the name of God is the prayer of your servant, John Wesley." This was the last letter Wesley wrote.

Wilberforce spent nearly all of his leisure time at Battersea Rise, where he was visited by the foremost men engaged in the anti-slave crusade, his constant friend was Henry Thornton, who did much to encourage him in his work. Here he met Southey the poet, and Dr. Chalmers, whom he found delightful company. In ] 793 he wrote his best known work, " Practical Christianity," which has gone through many editions.

On May 30th, 1804, Wilberforce got the first reading of his Bill passed by one hundred and twenty four votes to forty-nine. This was a great victory, and from that day the issue of the question was clear, for three years later, in 1807, the first Bill for the Abolition of the Slave Trade passed the House, but this was only one step towards total abolition, which did not come until many years after.

Wilberforce had now left Battersea Rise and taken " Broomfield," in what is now Broomwood Road. The Rev. Hughes, an eminent Battersea divine, often visited here. On May 15th, 1830, Wilberforce, now feeble and old, took the chair at a great Anti-Slave Meeting held in the old Freemason's Hall ; this was his last public meeting. Shortly after this he left Battersea to live at Kensington Gore. Writing to a friend at the time he says : " It is not

46 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

without great regret I give up my house at Battersea, a place endeared to me by much happiness, both at Battersea Rise and ' Broomfield.' The memory of the pleasant hours I have spent there will never fade."

In July, 1833, when his life was drawing to a close, news was brought to him that Parliament had passed another Bill against slavery. This Bill imposed a payment of twenty millions sterling in compensation to the slave- owners. "Thank God," he exclaimed, "that I have lived to see Kngland willing to make such a sacrifice for the abolition of the traffic in human beings." A few days after receiving this information, July 29th, he passed away at the age of seventy-four. He had wished to be buried at Stoke Newington, where his daughter and a sister are buried, but the Members of both Houses of Parliament ex- pressed a strong desire that he should lie in Westminster Abbey, which the family agreed to. The public funeral took place on August 5th, when all business was suspended. The Speaker of the Commons, the L,ord Chancellor, and a prince of the Royal House were pall-bearers. Inside the Abbey were assembled those most renowned for talent and greatness. Wilberforce was laid to rest in the north transept near his life-long friends, Fox, Canning and Pitt.

The press and the platform were loud in their praise of the life and work of this man, who had devoted his life to the welfare of his fellows. The edition of The Age said : " The nations are indebted to Wilberforce for a phil- anthropy which has humanized mankind, and illustrious deeds and words which show him as the best benefactor of his time."

His townsmen of Hull raised a Doric column to his memory ; this memorial is one hundred and two feet high, surmounted with a statue of the great philanthropist and statesman. The house where he was born in the High Street has been bought by the Hull Corporation, and is now open as a museum of Wilberforce relics.

Wilberforce was not one of the most brilliant men of

BATTERSEA WORTHIES. 47

his time. His education, training, and wealth were the dominating factors by which he reached his position in the history of his time ; he concentrated his life-work to the achievement of one object, which he attained. His char- acter was cast in a religious mould, he had strong faith in the existence of a supreme power, deep rooted, which governed the whole of his life.

John Gardner, m.a.

In 1778 John Gardner was installed vicar of Battersea. He was a man of fine artistic taste, and a constant exhibitor at the Royal Academy, where many of his pictures gained high commendation. In 1778 he pub- lished a portfolio entitled, " Views on the Rhine," but some of his best work was put into the views which he con- tributed to Williams' " History of Monmouthshire " ; very little of his work has come down to the present time. He died in 1808 at the age of seventy-nine and is buried in Battersea Parish Church.

Thomas Asti,b, f.s.a.

Thomas Astle, the antiquary, resided in Battersea at the close of the eighteenth century, and is buried in St. Mary's Churchyard. He was the keeper of His Majesty's records in the Tower of London, also a member of the Antiquarian Society, and one of the trustees of the British Museum. He was the author of many articles on Archseo- logia, and wrote a book on the origin of writing. He had one of the finest collections of manuscripts then known, which comprised several other collections ; on his death he left them in charge of the Marquis of Buckingham.

48 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Theodore Janssan.

Another Battersea worthy, although not a native, was Theodore Janssan, the founder of the famous enamel works. His father was one of the Huguenots who came to England when the French Protestants were persecuted beyond endurance. He was wealthy and invested large sums of money in various companies. He was one of the directors of what was known as the " South Sea Bubble," by which he lost a large amount of money. In 1730 he invested money in property at Battersea, he died at Wimbledon in 1748 at the age of ninety, leaving a family of three daughters and five sons. Theodore, his third son, was in business as a bookseller at St. Paul's Churchyard, he afterwards became an alderman of the City, and was elected sheriff in 1749, and Lord Mayor in 1754.

At this time Lord Stanley owned some property in Battersea, and was on friendly terms with Theodore Janssan, who had a few years previously commenced the enamel works at York House, in which Lord Stanley became interested. Robert Hancock, the famous line engraver, had been appointed in charge of the works. Janssan succeeded his brother, Sir Henry, in 1767, and became Sir Stephen Theodore Janssan. An article in The Gentleman' s Magazine, published in 1768, speaks in high terms of Sir Stephen, for whom there was much respect on account of his many virtues, both public and private. Janssan fell upon bad times and became bankrupt in 1756, his furniture and other effects were advertised for sale in The Public Advertiser, in the list of articles advertised were the following: "A quantity of beautiful enamels, coloured and uncoloured, of the new manufactory, York House, Battersea, and never yet exhibited to public view." The advertisement described the enamels in detail, con- sisting of candlesticks, patch boxes, snuff boxes, watch cases, toothpick cases, bottle tickets, and many others in

BATTERSEA WORTHIES. 49

a variety of patterns, round, square and oval, all fit for the cabinets, mounted on metal in fine gilt. A sale took place on Janssan's premises in St. Paul's Churchyard, which did not realize the amount expected, so another sale took place in June, 1756, when more Battersea enamels were sold, some of which were described as consisting of fine drawn pictures on watch cases, boxes, and oval plaques, also black enamels, and a quantity of stove plates and Dutch tiles. This was the last of the enamel works, for the advertisement goes on to announce that " all the tools and utensils belonging to the factory will be sold, also a quantity of frames and unfinished enamels." The factory was also offered for sale but did not find a pur- chaser, and a few years later was finally closed. This was the end of Janssans' connection with Battersea.

Rev. Joseph Hughes, m.a.

The name of Joseph Hughes will ever be connected with Battersea as one of its foremost citizens ; he was one of the founders of the Religious Tract Society and the Foreign Bible Society, in conjunction with Wilberforce, John, L,ord Teignmouth and Henry Thornton. He was also one of the pioneers of education.

He came to Battersea about 1797, and was the first pastor at the York Road Baptist Chapel ; he found the system of educating the poorer class in a most unsatisfac- tory condition, many of the children being allowed to grow up in perfect ignorance of the rudiments of learning. Being a strong advocate of secular education he set to work to remedy this, got others interested in the work, and raised funds sufficient to make a commencement. Trustees were appointed to manage the funds, a large house in the York Road was then in the market, the trustees secured this, and after alterations, it was opened for twenty poor boys. The house had been known as Grove House, and the school was known by the same name.

D

50 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

This house soon became too small in accommodation, and another house was taken, which met the requirements for some years, when the trustees decided to build a school, and what was later known as the Old Grove School in the York Road was built, this was pulled down in 191 1 and a new school erected on the site. When the old school was built, open fields, orchards and gardens, extended down beyond St. John's College, and about the school were a few old fashioned wooden cottages with red tiled roofs, the remnants of Battersea village. The school was for boys only, so when it had gained a firm footing in the good work of education, Mr. Hughes turned his attention to making the same provision for girls, which, after many difficulties had been overcome, he succeeded in doing, and a school was erected in Plough Lane (now Plough Road).

At this time Plough Lane was very rural, with hedges and meadow land stretching as far as Wandsworth Com- mon, with a few houses dotted here and there, and some Almshouses for eight poor widows, which were supported by Mrs. H. Tritton. At the top of the lane were two mansions facing St. John's Hill, one of them stood where the London County Council Board School is built, and was the house of Mr. Joseph Tritton, who gave the site for the girls' school, he was a great help to Mr. Hughes in his education work. Tritton Street is named after him. Part of the other mansion still remains and is now the Battersea Grammar School. The Rev. May-Soule was another and later worker for the education of the poor, he is also kept in memory by the naming of a road, but the best memorial to these past worthies is the good work they did, and its effect upon those who came after them to carry on the work. The Plough Lane Girls' School was pulled down in 1905 when the Borough Council built the Plough Road Institute on the site.

Mr. Hughes died in 1833, and is buried in Bunhill Fields.

BATTERS E A WORTHIES. 51

John Cullum.

John Cullum was an artist of some local reputation. He was born in Battersea in 1801 ; he was an earnest worker for the uplifting of public morals, and the general good of the people, and was the first person to introduce the teetotal pledge into Battersea. But he is most interesting as having kept a record of events regarding Battersea, before and during his time. The following extracts are of interest :

" The Rev. John Wesley preached in Battersea, Nov- ember 4th, 1766, and on several other occasions. The first Wesleyan chapel was built in 1846 in the Bridge Road West ; in connection with this chapel was a Stranger's Friend Society, doing good work amongst " outcasts." The Priory, in Battersea Square, was built for religious instruction. Prior was the ecclesiastical title formerly given to the chief of a small monastry which was desig- nated a ' priory,' and was under the management of various officers. Many of these priories belonged to foreign mon- asteries of several religious orders. During the years from 1400 to 1520 several of these priories were dissolved and the revenues taken over by different colleges in Oxford and Cambridge. Henry VIII. closed many of these houses and some of the revenue went to found new bishoprics of which Westminster was one." John Cullum died in 1852.

CHAPTER VII. BATTERSEA ENAMELS.

IN 1750 an industry was commenced in Battersea by Stephen Theodore Janssan, the son of a French refugee, which was destined to become famous in the art world. The product of this industry was enamel work upon a copper basis, in various designs and shapes, which were used for many purposes, useful and ornamental. These enamels have attained a universal reputation, and are now sought after by all experts in enamel work, they are given the first place in the museums of Europe in their class of art work, and such is their reputation that no collection is complete without them, as among all old enamels they stand alone in beauty of colour, clear decorations and exquisite workmanship. No other enamels have been fired so perfectly, or finely, as the " Battersea." Not even the beautiful work of the Geneva enamels, or the dainty work of L,imoges, can compare with the work of Robert Hancock and his assistants, done at York House. Many and varied were those enamels in their make and use, they chiefly consisted of oval medallions, work boxes, needle boxes. Exquisite etui cases, fitted with scissors, bodkin and thimble. Tiny scent cases, with small cut bottle enclosed, coat and sleeve buttons, door and chest handles, card trays, knife handles, candle sticks, snuff boxes, salt cellars, patch boxes, ink stands, portraits of celebrities, wine bottle labels, jewel caskets, landscape views, scent bottles, writing cases, tea caddies, glove boxes, enamel boxes decorated with heads of women, negroes, dogs, boars, doves, gold-

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finches, bullfinches, the fruit of lemons, and peaches, red moss roses, and full blown pinks, portrait plaques, flower plaques, and plaques painted with all kinds of subjects. Most of these articles were worked in colours of purple, grassy green, rose, green, grey, turquoise or orange, the candle sticks in white or pink dotted with small flowers.

Janssan engaged French artists to paint the dainty little love scenes, and the exquisite landscapes which orna- mented the beautifully finished work boxes. During the first period of the manufacture, the decoration was done by hand, these are real works of art. A French engraver named Revenet evolved the idea of transfer printing, then an unknown art in England, and he produced some of the most interesting products of the Battersea factory, such as the well-known portrait enamels, which were transfer printed entirely. King George II., George III., Queen Charlotte, Frederick, Prince of Wales, the Duke of Cum- berland, Peter the Great, Frederick, King of Prussia, the Young Pretender, the beautiful Miss Gunnings, Pitt, and Horace Walpole are among the notable portraits. Revenet was noted for the refinement of his work as a copper plate engraver, he also worked in the Chelsea pottery, where Janssan had some interest. Revenet died in 1774.

Robert Hancock was the chief in charge of the works, but he had some able men under him. John Hall was a skilful painter upon china, who was in the Battersea works till they closed, when he went to the Chelsea pottery, where some enamel work was being done. Another clever work- man was a man named Brooke, who worked at the Bow pottery at a later date. The best transfer printer engaged at York House was George Lewis, who left Battersea to go to Worcester, where he worked in the china factory. He died in 1790.

Parquin, in his "Artists of Ireland," mentions that James Gwinn, a native of Kildare, came to England in 1755, and was employed near London at the Battersea

54 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

enamel works, where he made designs for box-lids. He died in 1776.

The art of enamelling is very ancient, metals were enamelled by the Chinese and Egyptians at a time when our ancestors were in a very primitive state ; at a much more recent date the art of enamelling upon copper was practised in France, and probably was brought to England by the Huguenots. The founder of the Battersea works was the son of one of these refugees. Similar work was also done in Prussia, but in a more crude form, yet the process was much the same, the melting of glassy sub- stances of various qualities and colours on to a metal foundation.

Geneva enamels had also been made, Limoges pro- duced Gothic pictures and altar ware in enamels, but none were equal to the best work done at York House. M. Roquet, who had painted enamels at Geneva, published a book in 1775, entitled, "The State of the Arts in England," and in a chapter on English porcelain he says, " There are three or four china works in the London suburbs, the chief being at Chelsea," he then goes on to say that " in the village of Battersea some very fine enamels are being made," and gives the following account of their manufacture : " These enamels are made upon a copper basis which is coated with a mixture of liquid glass and tin, the transfer-printing being done from paper impres- sions which had been taken from engraved copper plates, the still wet ink of the impression being carefully pressed and set off upon the enamel, then came the brush work, the colours and the gold." Another authority gives the following as the mode of transfer-printing : " The cut of the engraving must be so open as to contain a sufficient quantity of a substance, which should be the calx or lime and metal mixed with a small quantity of liquid glass. The impression is made on paper, the printed side of which is afterwards applied to the part of the porcelain intended to be printed, having first rubbed it with thick oil of tur-

BATTERSEA ENAMELS. 55

pentine; the paper is then taken off carefully, and the work is put to the fire. When once a subject is designed and engraved, it becomes a considerable saving to the manu- facturer by the repetition of its applications."

Collectors regard the transfer-printed enamels as the most valuable, as they are now very rare; some of the plates engraved by Hancock are still in existence (1913). The raised work upon many of the enamels consisted of enamel itself, which was put on with a brush.

Horace Walpole was a great admirer of these enamels, writing to his friend Richard Bentley in 1755, he says, " I am sending a snuff box as a sample of the new manu- facture at Battersea which is done on copper plates." Chaffer, who was an authority on this class of art work, gave high praise to Battersea enamels. Walpole was the first collector of Battersea enamels, some other famous collectors were Lady Schreiber, Octavius Morgan, Dudley McDonald, Charles Kennedy, Mr. Franks, Mrs. Halburtou and Charles Burradaile. The Schreiber collection is now in the South Kensington Museum, and the Franks collec- tion was bequeathed to the British Museum. Franks was an authority on enamels, and was employed as keeper for many years at the British Museum. There is also a collec- tion in the Battersea Municipal Museum.

The largest collection of Battersea enamels was made by Mr. Charles Storr Kennedy, which was exhibited at the Guelp Exhibition in 1891, some of these enamels were dated 1762 and later, which was after the works were closed by Janssan ; there is some evidence that the work was continued after Janssan left, by Brooks, who worked under Janssan, and these dates go to support this. Some of the portraits are of George III. and Queen Charlotte, and as George III. did not commence his reign until 1760, this enamel must have been made after that date, one of these enamels is now in the Battersea Museum.

The enamel works were not a commercial success, and after passing through various vicissitudes, were finally

56 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

closed about 1760. At the sale, when the works closed down, a number of Dutch decorated tiles and stove plates were included in the catalogue, from this some writers assume that they were made at the enamel works, but it is more likely that the tiles, which were delf-ware, had been made at the L,ambeth pottery works, which were then in existence, and sent to the Battersea enamel works for the printing and burning of the decorations.

Battersea enamels are now very rare, the earliest dated piece is 1753, the greater number being in the cabinets of collectors and in public museums. The few that come into the market fetch high prices, and their value is constantly increasing ; this has caused many forgeries to be placed on the market, these come mostly from France and Germany, some of them are remarkably good imitations, but they lack the daintiness and grace of the originals, the colouring is crude, and the absence of "hair" cracks in the enamel is a sure sign of the fraud, for hardly a piece of "Battersea" now exists which is perfect, there is a freshness about the colours of the imitation which should warn the collector.

The value of Battersea enamels has a wide range. The highest amount paid for a single piece was ^250, which was given for a large box beautifully finished and of the best period. ^15 was given for a small box with transfer- printed picture of King George and Queen Charlotte, and ^22 for a pair of candlesticks, in perfect condition. Small patch boxes and trinket boxes in good condition have fetched £3 to ^5 each. Two needle cases for twenty- four guineas was a recent price, thirty-seven guineas for three others, and twelve and a half guineas for another (1912). An oblong casket, painted with landscapes and figures in colours, with richly gilt borders on a white ground, sold for eighty-six guineas, another made sixty-eight guineas, and a third, with a pair of smaller boxes en suite, seventy- two guineas.

At the sale of the " Halburton" collection of Battersea

BATTERSEA ENAMELS. 57

and Bilston enamels, a pink enamel box seven and three quarter inches by eight and a quarter inches, painted with landscapes and gilt scroll work, sold for ^240, and a similar box less in size made ^115. Two other Battersea boxes sold for £iqo each.

About the same time as the Battersea enamels were made, similar work was being done in France. During the reign of Louis XVI., Petitot, the famous enameller, was producing some of his best work, which was done on fine gold, hence the high price these enamels command, a single specimen having fetched ^800. Other enamel works at this date were at Bilston, Birmingham and Liverpool. The Bilston enamels were made by George Brett, between 1760 and 1780. The Birmingham works did ornamental and transfer decorations in enamel. The Liverpool pot- ters, Sadler and Green, did enamel work chiefly upon tiles, etc., and they claimed to be the original inventors of transfer-printing, but their transfer-printed tiles were not produced until 1756, and the first dated piece of Battersea enamel is 1753. Sadler claimed the invention from 1749, the date when he first commenced to experiment in trans- fer work. Henry Bone, R.A., who died in 1834, was a painter of pictures on enamel, and he did some fine work for the Bristol China Company. Hancock was the first engraver at Battersea, some of his early work bearing his mark, R.H.F.

Dr. Richard Pocock, author of "Travels through England," visited the Battersea enamel works, and the beautiful workmanship received his high commendation.

CHAPTER VIII.

FAMOUS BATTERSEA HOUSES.

Yore House.

THIS house stood on part of the site of Price's candle works, the massive iron entrance gates were near the old creek, which flowed down from Clapham Common to the river ; the pumping station stands on the site of the entrance to York House, in front of which, in old days, was a fine lawn with a magnificent cedar tree in the centre, and round the lawn was a broad carriage drive. The mansion was built in 1480, by Lawrence Booth, a bishop of Durham and York, as a residence for himself and his successors, when called to London on any business connected with the church. The house and grounds were annexed to the see of York ; they were enclosed with a wall of great strength. When Booth died he bequeathed his estate in Battersea to the see of York, for the maintenance of a charity. History records that a royal barge landed its occupants at York Creek, and we find that Queen Elizabeth went from Greenwich to York House in the state barge ; and that Archbishop Hulgate lived here when he was committed to the Tower by order of Queen Mary, in 1553. Old records go to prove that his captors rifled the house of all its valuables, including over ^"300 in coin, sixteen thousand ounces of plate, a mitre of pure gold, some very fine diamonds, sapphires, and other precious stones, also pearls and rings of great value were taken. These valu- ables were never returned, and Hulgate ultimately lost his archbishopric, in addition to his valuables.

FAMOUS BATTERSEA HOUSES. 59

There is a letter among the State papers, dated August 22nd, 1580, from Archbishop Sandys to John Wicklifie, keeper of the York House at Battersea, in which he directs Wicklifie to deliver up the house to the Lords of the Council, so that it might be turned into a prison for obstinate Papists. During the Commonwealth, York House was sold to Sir Allan Apsley for ^1,800, but it was retained by the See after the Restoration.

It was in this house that Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and here the scene took place described in Shake- speare's play " Henry VIII.," which was written from information given by Queen Elizabeth, within fitty years of the event. Anne Boleyn was related to the St. John's, and her father, Sir Thomas Boleyn, resided near York House. Anne was one of the guests at a reception when the king was present. Some writers contend that this interview between Anne Boleyn and Henry VIII. took place at York House, Whitehall, but there is much tangible evidence to show that it took place at York House, Battersea.

In 1814, Sir Richard Phillips visited York House and thus describes his visit: "I visited York House at Battersea and was much interested, as it has many historical associa- tions. It is now used as a distillery, and is in the charge of a Mr. Benwell, who takes a great deal of interest in the house, and he fully believes that this is the house referred to by Shakespeare. He informed me that a few years since he had pulled down a superb room, called the ball-room, the panels of which were curiously painted, and the divisions silvered. He says, too, that the room had a dome and a richly ornamented ceiling, and that he once saw an ancient print, representing the first interview of Henry VIII. with Anne Boleyn, in which the room was portrayed exactly like the one that, in modernizing his house, he had found it necessary to destroy — though, as relics, he had pre- served several of the painted panels. The house is now in a modern style, and of good size, yet he told me, in digging

60 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

in the adjoining grounds, they constantly met with consid- erable foundations, thus showing that the house had been much larger at one time."

There was also a York House of some note at Twick- enham, which was confounded with the York House at Battersea, as it was much frequented by high personages and royalty. Queen Anne was born there on February 6th, 1665. Lord Clarendon resided there and entertained on a large scale ; it was afterwards the home of Karl Lonsdale down to 1844.

Sir Edward Winter, the African traveller, lived and died at York House. Theodore Janssan, a French refugee, purchased York House estate about 1745, and lived there some years; in 1750 his son Stephen Theodore Janssan commenced the manufacture of the world-famed Battersea enamels, which were made at this house until the works closed in 1762. For many years it remained a private residence. Mrs. Fitzherbert was once in residence, and George IV., when Prince of Wales, was a visitor, and many other notabilities of that time visited the house. Before its demolition it was a home for the mentally afflicted.

BOLINGBROKE HOUSE.

This mansion was the manor house of Battersea, and stood on the river front in its own grounds. Some idea of its size can be gained from the fact that it contained forty rooms on one floor ; and here Lord Bolingbroke, in the heyday of his power, entertained some of the most fore- most men of his day. Alexander Pope was a constant visitor, and had a room wherein he wrote much of his poetry, including part of his "Kssay on Man." This room was known as the Cedar Room, being lined with cedar wood.

In the summer of 1729 Pope paid one of his visits to Bolingbroke House, when, in conversation, Lord Boling-

FAMOUS BATTERSEA HOUSES. 61

broke suggested that Pope should write a poem on the hopes, fears, aspirations, and moods of man. Pope was pleased with the suggestion, and during his stay wrote the greater part of his " Essay on Man," an ethical poem, which he dedicated to Bolingbroke, this is shewn in the opening lines of the poem : —

" Awake, my St. John ! leave all meaner things To low ambition, and the pride of kings."

Lord Chesterfield met here some of his best friends, as also did Dean Swift and Chatham. The house stood near the old church, the grounds and out-houses reaching down to what is now Church Street. This fine mansion was pulled down in 1793, and, when the estate was alienated, the whole building was razed with the exception of a few rooms which now form part of Mayhew's flour mills in Church Street. This wreck of the great house is interest- ing, for it contains the historic cedar room already referred to, and the visitor will see on some of the walls, traces of the paintings in panel, by Verrio and Tagorre.

A traveller early in the nineteenth century thus describes a visit to Bolingbroke House : —

" On inquiring for an ancient inhabitant of Battersea, I was introduced to a Mrs. Gilliard, a very pleasant and intelligent lady, who told me she well remembered Lord Bolingbroke. He used to ride out a good deal in his chariot, and had a black patch on his cheek, with a large wart over his eyebrows. She was then but a girl, and she was taught to look upon him with veneration, as a great man. He spent little in Battersea and gave nothing away, and he was not much liked among the people of the village. I then went to visit the site of Bolingbroke House, and found Mr. Hodgson, a maltster and distiller, and the proprietor of the elevated horizontal air mill, which serves as a landmark for many miles round. But, in his employ- ments, there is nothing novel or uncommon to describe, and his mill, its elevated shaft, its vanes, and its weather or wind boards, curious as they would have been on any

62 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

other site, lost all their interest on this ! By what caprice of fate, I exclaimed, is the dwelling of Bolingbroke con- verted into a malthouse and mill ? This house, once sacred to philosophy and poetry, long sanctified by the residence of the noblest genius of his age, honoured by the frequent visits of Pope, and the birth-place of the immortal * Kssay on Man,' is now appropriated to the basest uses ! The house of Bolingbroke become a windmill — the spot on which the " Essay on Man " was concocted and produced, converted into a distillery of pernicious spirits ! Are these the sports of fortune ? Are such the means by which an eternal agency sets at nought the ephemeral consequence of man ? But yesterday, this spot was the resort, the hope, and the seat of happiness of Bolingbroke, Pope, Swift, Arbuthnot, Thomson, Mallet, and all the contemporary genius of England — yet a few whirls of the earth round the sun, the change of a figure in the date of the year, and the group has vanished, while in its place I behold hogs and horses, malt-bags and barrels, stills and machinery! " Alas," said I, to the worthy occupier, " and are these the representatives of more human genius than England may ever witness on one spot again ? " " No, sir," he rejoined, "I love the name of Bolingbroke, and I preserve the house as well as I can, with religious veneration. I often smoke my pipe in Mr. Pope's parlour, and think of him as I walk the part of the terrace opposite his room and next the water." He then conducted me to this interesting parlour, which is of brown polished oak, with a grate, and orna- ments of the age of George I. ; and before its window stood the portion of the terrace upon which the malthouse had not encroached, with the Thames moving majestically under its wall. I was on holy ground — I did not take off my shoes — but I doubtless felt what pilgrims feel as they approach the temples of Jerusalem, Mecca, or Jaggernaut ! Of all poems, and of all codes of wisdom, I admire the 'Essay on Man' and its doctrines the most, and in this room it was probably planned, discussed, and written !

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Mr. Hodgson told me this had always been called Pope's room, and he had no doubt it was the apartment usually occupied by that great poet in his visits to his friend Bolingbroke.

Besides this room, several other parts of the original house remain, and are occupied and kept in good order. Mr. Hodgson told me, however, that this is but a wing of the mansion, which extended in L,ord Bolingbroke's time to the churchyard of St. Mary, the land is now occupied by the malthouse and its warehouses."

The Red House.

A famous house, which stood on the river bank near Chelsea Bridge, on the Vauxhall side, dating from the time of Queen Elizabeth. It was built of red brick with white pointings, and only had one storey above the ground floor. The house contained fourteen rooms ; the windows on the lower floor had wood shutters painted green ; these shutters had large bolts which fastened on the inside. The roof was slated.

In the gardens were a number of small arbours, which were decorated with Flemish and other paintings, and in the centre of the grounds was a well-stocked fish pond, which was always an attraction. Behind the house was a large shooting ground, where pigeon shooting matches, and other sports and games took place during the summer months. These matches brought much discredit upon the house, as most of them took place on Sunday mornings, and attracted some of the worst characters in London. The gardens were illuminated every night with oil lamps, which were hung about the grounds. Seats and benches were placed in the gardens among the trees for the accommodation of visitors. From each end of the grounds a flight of steps led down to the river for the purpose of landing passengers and watermen.

64 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Charles Dickens mentions " The Red House " in "Sketches by Boz," when the "swells" of society used to meet here to engage in pigeon shooting and other amuse- ments. This was prior to the time when Hurlingham became the fashionable resort. The Red House was the winning post for most of the boat races which took place on the river, some of which were of importance in their day. In 1825 a prize wherry was rowed for by seven pairs of oars, the course being from Westminster Bridge to the Red House. The prize was given by the actor, Edmund Kean. At this time the Oxford and Cambridge boat race was rowed from Westminster Bridge to Putney, and the Red House was considered the best point of view on the river.

Calburn, in his "Kalendar of Amusements" (1840), says. " The Red House at Battersea takes the lead for pigeon shooting, as all the crack shots assemble there tor matches of importance, and the shooting is so good that it seldom occurs that a single bird escapes." Col. Saxby, in his book on " The Municipal Parks of London," says that the Red House was celebrated for its flounder break- fasts, the fish being plentiful in the Thames at that date. In the month of August a great sucking-pig dinner was held, at which many noblemen assembled ; and the officers from Whitehall used to make the trip to the Red House on account of the novelty of the meals, and the fresh air. Charles Dickens was a visitor to the Red House about this time, and took much interest in a raven which was kept there, named " Gyp," which greatly amused Dickens by his cunning tricks, and funny, artful ways, and may have given him some inspiration for creating his raven "Grip" in " Barnaby Rudge."

In the nineteenth century fairs were held in the grounds of the Red House, but became so rowdy that they had to be discontinued. The Rev. Thomas Kirk, a well-known divine in his day, made a strong protest against the scandal of the Red House, as follows: " If ever there was a place

FAMOUS BATTERSEA HOUSES. 65

out of hell, which surpassed Sodom and Gomorrah in ungodliness and abomination, this was it. I have gone to this sad spot on the Lord's Day, when there have been horse and donkey races, foot racing, walking matches, comic actors, shameless dancers, gamblers, drinking booths, and fortune-tellers, but it would be impossible to describe the unmentionable doings of this pandemonium on earth." He then goes on to say, " I asked a pier-man how many people were landed on Sundays at the pier, and he said, when the weather was fine, from ten to fifteen thousand." This influx was in addition to the arrivals by road, the total number of visitors on a Sunday being computed at fifty to sixty thousand.

In its early history, the Red House had a good reputa- tion as a popular resort for pleasure-seekers, aquatic sportsmen, and watermen, but in later years fell into bad repute. It was well known for many a debauch, many an assignation, and many other things besides pigeon shooting. Some of the incidents which happened there are best hidden in the blur of the past.

When Battersea Park was in course of construction in 1844, the Red House, with all its shooting ground and adjacent premises, was purchased by the Commissioners, the sum paid being ^10,000. The buildings were then demolished, and so ended the once famous Red House, with all its reputations and traditions.

Sherwood Lodge.

An old-time mansion, near the corner of Lombard Road, facing York Road. A small portion of this building still exists, being part of Price's Candle Works. It was one of the finest residences on the river front, and was shaded with lime, sycamore, and poplar trees. Many celebrated families lived here, the first being Jens Wolfe, who was the Danish consul ; he was a collector of works

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of art, and had a valuable collection of antique statues and plaster casts, the most valuable being those from the " Fighting Gladiators," the " Barberini Faun," the " Dying Gladiator," and " Hercules." Another occupier was Sir Edward East, who lived there many years ; a later tenant was Sir George Wombwell, who, with Lady Wombwell, entertained on a grand scale. Sir George's son was aide-de-camp to Earl Cardigan, and rode with him "into the Valley of Death" at Balaclava. The Wombwells were the last family of note to reside at Sherwood Lodge. The old Falcon Brook ran down from Lavender Hill by the side of the Lodge to the river.

Broomfibud.

Broomfield, a large house, which stood in its own grounds, about the centre of what is now Broomwood Road, takes its place in history as being the home of William Wilberforce, and the house in which was founded the British Bible Society, and the Church Missionary Society ; and as the birthplace of Canon Wilberforce, once Bishop of Winchester. Many eminent men have met in this house to confer with Wilberforce, when he was fighting for the emancipation of the slaves. Among those men of the time who visited at Broomfield were Burke, Fox, Gran- ville Sharp, Clarkson, Lord Castlereagh, Lord Macaulay, and the Rev. Hughes, a noted Battersea Divine, whom Wilberforce had a great respect for.

That earnest band of Christian men, known as the Clapham Sect, also met in this house for some time, and did much of their work there.

A memorial meeting was held in the grounds of Broomfield House, those who had worked in the anti- slave crusade meeting for thanksgiving, when the first Slave Emancipation Bill passed into law. On this occasion Wilberforce received congratulations from all

FAMOUS BATTERSEA HOUSES. 67

parts of the civilised world. Modern villas now stand upon the site of this historic house. The London County Council have affixed a tablet to one of the villas, which notifies that Broomfield, the home of Wilberforce, stood on that site.

Lubbock House, Battersea Rise.

Standing in its own spacious grounds, Lubbock House was an old-fashioned mansion, built in the early eighteenth century, and, as a building, calls for no special note. Its historical interest rests in its connection with the men of note, who lived, or visited there, during the first fifty years of its existence.

The house was built by a Mr. Lubbock, who was a banker of repute, and an ancestor of Lord Avebury. In 1792 it was purchased by Henry Thornton, a prominent citizen of Clapham, whose family has always been held in high esteem. It remained the ancestral home of the Thornton family, until it was demolished to make room for modern villas. The last tenant was Mr. Percy Thornton, who was the Member of Parliament for Clapham.

Soon after Henry Thornton purchased Lubbock House, William Wilberforce went to live with him, and they resided there, in bachelor estate, until Thornton married, when Wilberforce took " Broomfield " as his new residence.

One of the chief attractions in this old house was the oval library, which was designed by William Pitt. In this room Wilberforce met and conferred with some of the foremost men of his day, including Fox, Clarkson, Gran- ville Sharp, Macaulay, Buxton, and Pitt, and planned much of the work for carrying on the anti-slave crusade. Lubbock House is also memorable as being the home of the " Clapham Sect," a Christian body of men who were given that name by Sydney Smith. The grounds

68 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

of Lubbock House were very fine, studded with fine elms, cedars, and Scotch firs, and bright with tulips and other flowers ; in these grounds Sir Walter Scott used to stroll, and Hannah More roamed; Robert Southey rested under the shady elms, and Zachary Macaulay stood listening to the singing of the birds. These celebrities were visitors at Ivubbock House, in their day.

There were other old-time houses in and around Battersea, but their history does not call for any special note.

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CHAPTER IX. OLD TIME TAVERNS.

BATTERSEA, like most places with a historic past, can claim to have several noted taverns, or inns, some of which have their place in histoiy. There is a quaint charm about an old-time inn, which sets the imagination to work and claims attention. We picture the old merry group gathered by the ingle nook, passing away the time with jest and joke. There were rare good times in those days for the host and his guests, — the time when the Georges were on the throne. The inns were cosy and comfortable, with spacious rooms and old- fashioned home comforts. The little diamond-shaped windows, out of which the traveller watched the approach of the stage-coach, or the passing of the flying mail coach, which was then looked upon as the consummation of quick transit. An old-time book, now as rare as it is curious, called "The London Spy," conducted by Ned Ward, gives some amusing tales of the doings in those old-time taverns when Swift, Addison, Johnson, Steele, and many other worthies of that time, cracked their jokes over steaming bowls of punch.

One of the most ancient taverns in Battersea was the old " Falcon," which was built nearly 300 years ago. The original house stood near where the present "Falcon" stands, it was surrounded by orchards and floral gardens, flanking on country lanes, with few houses until the village of Wandsworth was reached. A later house, built about the beginning of the nineteenth century, was kept by a man named Robert Death, and at this time the house was

70 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

a place of call for undertakers on their return from the burial ground ; some of these men and their friends often got merry in their cups, and it was not an uncommon sight to see a funeral-party dancing on the green in front of the inn. The artist, John Nixon, was so much amused by the landlord's name that he painted a picture of the tavern entitled " Drinking at Death's door," in which he depicted a merry lot of undertakers disporting themselves in front of the inn. This satire has many times been copied, the original is in the British Museum.

About a century ago, when Mr. Robert Death was landlord of the " Falcon," the following lines were written:

"Oh stop not here, ye sottish wights, For purl, nor ale, nor gin, For if you stop, whoe'er alights, By Death is taken in.

When having eat and drank your fill

Should ye, O hapless case. Neglect to pay your landlord's bill —

Death stares you in the face.

With grief sincere, I pity those

Whove drawn themselves this scrape in,

Since from his dreadful grip, Heaven knows, Alas ! there's no escaping.

This one advice, my friends pursue,

Whilst you have life and breath, Ne'er pledge your host, for if you do,

You'll surely drink to Death."

The " White Hart," in Lombard Road, dates back to 1600. Charles II. was a frequent visitor to this house when he was in his merry moods, and it was while staying here that he almost lost his life. Colonel Blood, who some time afterwards attempted to steal the crown jewels, confessed to having had designs upon the king's

OLD TIME TAVERNS. 71

liie. Blood hid near Battersea Priory, where a sub- terranean passage led to the river bank close to the place where the king came to bathe. He had been chosen to kill the king by a body of men who resented the king's interference with their religious opinions. Blood relented at the last moment, and the king returned to the inn. Rapier, in his history of England, says that Charles II. not only forgave him, but settled a pension of ^500 per annum upon him for life.

The "Old Swan," near the Parish Church, is an historic house, and has been immortalised in song by Dibdin in one of his operettas. This tavern was the resort of the old river watermen, who were an important class at that time ; it was also the headquarters of some of the boating crews when the Thames Regatta was an institu- tion. For many years the "Old Swan" was the most popular tavern on the river front.

In the Plough Lane (Plough Road) was an inn of some repute in its day, known as the " Old House," famous for its home-brewed ales. It was a favourite house with the market gardeners and Sunday morning travellers, who used to disport themselves on the grass and under the oak trees which stood near the house.

The " Raven," in the High Street, is another old inn with a past, for old records show that the " Merry Monarch " often visited this house, and many scenes of revelry took place within its walls.

The "Star and Garter," and the "Castle," are both taverns which have an interesting past, dating from the seventeenth century ; the hey-day of their prosperity were in the old coaching days, before the advent of railways, but their days of interest have long passed away.

Past Battersea Fields, towards the end of the parish, stood the "Nine Elms Tavern," which was built in the days when all this part of Battersea was a wild open space, with here and there a cornfield, and a few market gardens, hedged in with hawthorn and May blossom in the summer

72 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

months ; there were neatly kept pleasure grounds and tea gardens attached, and at a later date it was known for all kinds of "sports," which were carried on. The nine elms, from which the lane derived its name, stood near this tavern.

The "Old House at Home" stood near Battersea Fields, not far from the Red House ; it was a small thatched building, which answered the double purpose of beerhouse and farmhouse combined, it had a reputation for the excellence of its egg flip, which consisted of hot ale or stout, into which new-laid eggs were beaten, after being well mixed, it was sweetened with sugar. This was a popular Sunday morning drink of many who were on their way to the Red House sports. All beers sold at this house were drawn direct from the casks, which were in full view of the customers. Near this house, in the summer time, gipsies and other old-time tent-dwellers pitched their encampments. When the Red House festivities were at their height, a barge, richly gilded, called " The Folly," was moored in the river, where the bloods of the period, with their ladies, assembled for dancing and card-playing. On their way home many of these revellers called at the " Old House at Home " for an egg flip.

Another tavern of note was " Ye Old Plough Inn," on St. John's Hill, which was built a.d. 1701, and was pulled down in 1874, the present " Plough " being erected upon the site. In front of the old inn grew an oak tree, beneath its shade travellers used to sit and enjoy their refreshments. There is some grounds for the belief that the notorious Dick Turpin once stayed at this house for some time, when he was nightly visiting the Garrett Lane district, the lane was then a lonely Surrey high road, leading to Tooting and Merton, where many of the gentry resided whom Turpin used to intercept on their way home, and demand his toll. Tradition says that he was often in hiding at the " Plough," when he was hard pressed

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by the men of law. The house was very picturesque in its surroundings, with seats and benches beneath the overhanging trees, and the old-time lattice windows of the inn. A rhymster of the time wrote the following lines in memory of the old oak tree which grew in front of the " Plough "—

" Here stands the remains of the old oak tree, That flourished when knights of the road roamed free, When bands of lawless, yet chivalrous wights, Struck fear to the hearts of purse-proud knights. This gay old king of the forest wild, His proud head bowed to the sun's bright smile ; His leaves to the murmuring breeze did fling In the cool shade of the old Plough Inn. When the knights of the road of their deeds did sing, As the chorus loud made the rafters ring, They drank to the health of Turpin the bold, When he brought to the ' Plough ' his ill-gotten gold. So here's to the memory of the old Plough Inn, And all the past memories of things that have been."

CHAPTER X. BATTERSEA INDUSTRIES.

DOMESDAY Book says that Battersea had many mills for grinding corn and for other purposes. Whiting works and lime kilns were in the parish as far back as 1650. Pottery works were established in 1700, and a turnery stood near Nine Elms L,ane ; at a later date cement works and breweries were in operation. Brickmaking was carried on in some fields on Pig Hill (Latchmere Road). Cattle breeding flourished to some extent, sheds and outbuildings were erected on part of the site of Bolingbroke House. These buildings had accommodation for six hundred head of cattle, the animals were fattened by meal which was ground and prepared in a mill built on the same site. Another industry at this time (1700) was salmon fishing, salmon being very plentiful in the river at certain times of the year. A good trade was done by the Battersea and Chelsea boatmen.

There was a foundry in Battersea, about 1660, for casting shot for the Tower of London. Along the river front there were several factories and works, some of which are still carried on, and have grown into important industries. Not far from Price's factory, Freeman's colour and varnish works were established ; then came Whiffin's chemical factory, and near to the old creek was Nash and Miller's barge building yard ; another boat and barge building yard was one owned by A. B. Cox, who had a good reputation as a boat builder. Mr. H. B. Condy, the inventor of Condy's Fluid, and antiseptic aromatic vinegar, had his first manufactory on the river side, near Nine

BATTERSEA INDUSTRIES. 75

Elms. The Silicated Carbon Filter Co., which employed a number of hands, also had their works contiguous to Condy's. An important factory on the river front is Morgan's crucible and plumbago works. This firm is now the largest crucible makers in the world, doing an immense business in all kinds of crucibles for melting and refining various kinds of metals, which are sent to all parts of the world. Crucible making is a very old art, we know that crucibles were used in the twelfth century by the old alchemists when they tried to transmute into gold the six other metals which were then known to philoso- phers. For scientific research the crucible has occupied an important place in history, and it has been aptly termed the cradle of experimental chemistry. In 1832 Dr. Kyan established in Battersea his works for preserving wood from dry rot by a process known as Kyanizing.

The Old Silk Factory.

The silk industry was brought to England from France by the Hugenots in 1639, who settled in Wands- worth and Spitalfields, some of those who settled at Wandsworth found their way to Battersea, where, among other industries, they set up a silk factory, and some of their descendants had a factory at the commencement of the nineteenth century, near the river, on the site where now stands Garton Hill's works, in York Road. At this time a large number of hauds were employed, as it was one of the staple trades of the district. The business was carried on by Messrs. Curnell, Tyell & Webster. The road which runs down to the river by the side of Garton Hill's works was known as Silk Factory Lane (now York Place). The factory fell into decay on the decline of the silk trade, but down to 1840 some of the old looms and silk weaving machinery were still intact.

About this date the building was taken over by Mr. Fownes, and converted into a glove factory.

76 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

The Wellington Works, Battersea Bridge.

In the year 1744, Joseph Bowley came from Notting- ham to London and commenced the business of soap and candle making. London then, as now, was looked upon by men with business aspiration as the Mecca for trade and commerce, so Joseph Bowley set up a factory at Westminster for the purpose of manufacturing soap and candles, and for refining oil. After passing through the usual vicissitudes of a new business, success began to loom ahead, and from a small beginning a large business grew, and continued to grow until about 1868, when the works were removed to Battersea, as much larger premises were required for their increasing trade, the Wellington Works were established near Battersea Bridge. The business has grown so rapidly during the past forty years that the works now occupy nearly the whole of Wellington Road, and a large river frontage, with all facilities for loading and landing goods. The soap and candle making departments have been closed owing to the rapid growth of other departments, which now comprise oil refining, varnish making, motor spirit and naptha distilling, also colour and paint manufacturing. The factory is equipped with all modern appliances for the blending and mixing of all kinds of lubricating oils and paints, and the pro- duction of motor spirit.

The firm has a wide business connection, not only at home, but in the Colonies and foreign countries.

The present head of the firm, Joseph John Bowley, F.C.S., is a direct descendant of the founder, he is an associate member of the Society of Chemical Industry, also a member of the Chamber of Commerce ; he is ably assisted in the business by his son.

The Wellington Works, like many other works where inflammable products are used, has had its "fires," the two most severe were in 1883 and *n 1906, the latter

BATTER SEA INDUS TRIES. 77

destroyed nearly half the entire works on the north side of Wellington Road, and before the fire was got under all the petroleum spirit storage was destroyed. The fire, when at its height, was visible for many miles, as the huge flames shot upwards from the spirit storage; the oils and spirit also ran into the river, making vast sheets of flame upon the surface of the water, and, as the reporters said, Messrs. Bowley had the distinction of having set the Thames on fire.

Wicker Work.

At one time considerable trade was done in Battersea in wicker work, osiers grew plentifully on the river banks, which were known as the osier grounds. Many of these osiers were sold, in the by-gone time, for church purposes, and were called church osiers.

Fownes' Glove Factory.

This industry was established at Battersea in 1777 by Mr. John Fownes, who was a prominent citizen of Battersea during the eighteenth century, he lived at Poplar House, which stood in Falcon L,ane, near to where Hunt and Cole's shop now stands. The factory and grounds occupied the greater portion of one side of the lane. The importance of these works is shown by the fact that in the busy season upwards of six hundred hands were employed. When the land in Falcon Lane became valuable for building purposes the works were removed to the old silk factory in York Road, and some years later the business left Battersea, being transferred to Worcester. A small branch of the business is still carried on (1913) in Battersea, where many hands are employed. Fownes have a large warehouse at 71 Gresham Street, from which their gloves are exported to all parts of the world, for the name " Fownes " stands high in the glove trade.

78 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

In 1847 Mr. Fownes gave the freehold site for the building of Christ Church.

Brunei/s Saw Miu,.

Sir Mark Brunei had his veneer works and saw mills near the old Battersea Bridge; early in the nineteenth century these works are thus described by a writer in the British Register: —

" But a few yards from the toll-gate of the bridge, on the western side of the road, stand the work-shops of that eminent mechanic, Mr. Brunei, who has effected as much for the mechanic arts as any man of his time. The wonderful apparatus in the Dockyard at Portsmouth, by which he cuts blocks for the Navy with a precision and expedition that astonish every beholder, secures him a monument of fame, and eclipses all rivalry. His work- shops are free from ostentation. In a small building on the left, I was attracted by the action of a steam-engine of a sixteen-horse, or eighty men, power, and was ushered into a room where it turned, by means of bands, four wheels fringed with fine saws, two of them eighteen feet in diameter, and two of nine feet. These circular saws were used for the purpose of separating veneers, and a more perfect operation was never performed. I beheld planks of mahogany and rosewood sawed into veneers the sixteenth of an inch thick, with a precision and grandeur of action which really was sublime ! The same power at once turned these tremendous saws, and drew their work upon them. A large sheet of veneer, nine or ten feet long by two feet broad, was thus separated in about ten minutes ; so even, and so uniform, that it appeared more like a perfect work of nature than one of human art! The force of these saws may be conceived when it is known that the large ones revolve sixty-five times in a minute."

BATTERSEA INDUSTRIES. 79

The saw mills and works were destroyed by fire in 1814.

Shoe Factory.

In 1 81 2 a shoe factory stood on the banks of the river, near Battersea creek, where discharged soldiers and others were taught the trade of shoe making. The factory is thus described by a writer in the Monthly Magazine : —

" At Battersea there is a manufactory of shoes, full of ingenuity, and which, in regard to the subdivision of labour, brings this fabric on a level with the oft-admired manufactory of pins. Every step in it is effected by the most elegant and precise machinery ; while as each opera- tion is performed by one hand, so each shoe passes through twenty-five hands, who finish from the hide, as supplied by the currier, a hundred pair of strong and well-finished shoes per day. All the details are performed by ingenious applications of the mechanic powers, and all the parts are characterised by precision, uniformity, and accuracy. As each man performs but one step in the process, which implies no knowledge of what is done by those who go before or follow him, so the persons employed are not shoemakers, but wounded soldiers, who are able to learn their respective duties in a few hours."

It is interesting to note that the system of each work- man making one part of a shoe only, which was com- menced in the American shoe factories a few years ago, and has been adopted in the British manufactories, was carried out in the Battersea shoe factory one hundred years ago.

Battersea Soap Works.

In 1 8 13 an extensive soap factory was built at a cost of ^60,000. It stood near the bridge, facing the river, the factory was fitted with the latest machinery and

80 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

appliances for soap making, but had not been working long before great objection was taken by many of the inhabitants of Battersea and Chelsea to the noxious fumes and gases arising from the works, and an indictment against the continuance of the manufactory was brought in the Law Courts. The Judge, in summing up the case, said, "It was to be regretted that a less polite and populous site had not been chosen for such a factory, useful manu- factories should be fostered, but it would be sacrificing the end of living to the means, if they were allowed to annoy whole districts by their smoke, noise or effluvia." The verdict went against the owner, and the works were closed down. Shortly after the proprietor became bankrupt.

Price's Candle Works. The Growth of a Great Industry.

Battersea is the home of the candle industry, for although Price's Candle Co., che pioneers of the candle trade, commenced their business at Vauxhall nearly one hundred years ago, the great development of the business has taken place since the transfer of the works to Battersea nearly seventy years ago, and its growth has been on a par with the progress of the science and art of candle making, until at the present day their goods are exported to all parts of the globe, and "Price's" have established oversea branches in South Africa and China, and are now the largest candle makers in the world.

It was in 1833 that the first "stearic" candles were made. The inventor, a Frenchman, did not attain much success, and it was not until some years later that they became of commercial value, when M. de Milly founded his " Stearic Candle Works " in Paris. Mr. James Soames invented a device for separating cocoa-nut oil into its solid and liquid components. This patent was pur-

BATTER SEA INDUSTRIES. 81

chased by Mr. William Wilson and his partner, candle makers, trading as E. Price & Co., and it was first used by this firm for the production of candles and lamp oil. The plaited wick was patented in France in 1825 by Cambaceres. By the use of this wick the need for snuffing candles is obviated, for during combustion the wick becomes untwisted so that the lighted end is bent outside the flame, and, meeting the air, is completely consumed. In 1840, Mr. J. P. Wilson, of Price's, invented an improved self-snuffing candle, which was known as the "Composite," so called because of the mixture of material in its manu- facture. At this time Price's had established steam mills at Ceylon for crushing cocoa-nuts to extract the oil for their London factory, and a great impetus had been given to the candle trade by a change in the tariffs, improved machinery, and the advent of steam navigation. Another advance in the making of candles was made by Messrs. Blundell, Spence & Co., of Hull, but as the candles made by this new process were of a dark colour, they did not come into general use.

In 1842 a discovery was patented by Price's, in the names of W. C. Jones and G. F. Wilson, which allowed palm oil and greases to be made into a white and inodorous material for candles.

The manufacture of night lights (or " mortars," as they were originally called) was begun in 1843, and in 1848 the Company acquired a patent held by Mr. G. M. Clarke, and in 1849 the night-light business of Mr. Samuel Child— hence the well-known name "Child's Night Lights." This branch of the business, like that of candle- making, has seen many changes since its introduction. Beginning with the poured lights, consisting of mixed fats, and passing on to the moulded coco-stearin lights, introduced as "New Patent Night Lights" in 1853, by Mr. George F. Wilson, they then reached a paraffin period, in which the " Royal Castle" and " Palmitine Star" night lights made their appearance.

82 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

The Belmont Works, which had been established at Vauxhall under the name of Edward Price & Co., con- tinued to prosper to such an extent that in 1847 the business was formed into a company with a capital of ^500,000. In 1850 James Young invented what was known as paraffin wax, and Price's was the first firm to use it in the manufacture of candles, these candles were of a much superior quality to any others then on the market. The total imports of palm oil into England, which amount- ed to nineteen thousand eight hundred tons in 1840, rose to about fifty thousand tons in 1871, and are now in the region of seventy-five thousand tons. This increase of importation was undoubtedly due in very great part to the use of the oil for the manufacture of candles, and it is this trade which presents to the African chiefs and kings along the West Coast the motive that they can best understand for the abandonment of the slave trade. The lesson is learnt that subjects are of more value to their rulers when collecting palm oil than when sold into slavery. In 1843 Messrs. Price's opened a small factory in Battersea, which was run in conjunction with the one at Vauxhall until the end of 1864, when the Vauxhall works were closed, a freehold was purchased at York Place, and the present Battersea factory erected.

In the year 1854 the Company entered upon the manufacture of household soap, and they have gradually developed this branch of their business until they have now become makers of all kinds of household, mill, laundry, soft, and disinfecting (carbolic) soaps.

In motor oils they also do an extensive business. In 1912 the Company acquired the large, and very old estab- lished business of Charles Price & Co., and their extensive works at Belvedere, in order to secure greater accommoda- tion to meet the demands of increasing business in lubri- cating oils, etc.

Several inventions of an important character in machinery and the method of making candles have been

BATTERSEA INDUSTRIES. 83

patented by Messrs. Price during the past forty years, which have not only resulted in large increases in their own business, but have contributed to the advancement of the candle-making trade in general.

By Act of Parliament, in 1857, the capital of the Company had been increased to ;£i, 000,000. The premises have been enlarged and additions built from time to time as the business grew, until now (1913) the ground area is over fourteen acres, and the firm employs close upon one thousand seven hundred hands, while the total number of employees at Liverpool, Manchester, and Battersea, is over three thousand.

In 1 87 1 Mr. John Hodges, foreman of the paraffin department, discovered a method for producing white paraffin from paraffin scale, without using spirit of any kind.

Price's Company look after the welfare of their work- people ; at Vauxhall, in the early forties, they established a night school for the improvement of their workers. This was the first factory school in England, and did some good work at a time when the education of the people was being neglected. At the present day they are doing much in the interest of their employees at their works near Liverpool, which were opened in 1853. Here the company built one hundred and forty cottages and a school, they also built a church and a lecture hall, and have recently added a library and a cottage hospital. At Battersea they established the " Workers' Pension Fund," the money being provided by the Company. They also inaugurated the Belmont Institute, which provides classes, library, and recreation clubs, also sewing and singing classes lor girls, all of which have been a source of pleasure and profit to their workers.

From such a small beginning nearly a century ago, this marvellous progress has been made in a great indus- try, from the primitive "dip" to the beautifully finished candle of th« present day.

84 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

The Starch Factory.

In 1840 Orlando Jones invented a process by which starch could be manufactured from rice. By this process a much better starch was obtained, both as to colour and purity, and at less cost than by the old method. Before this invention, starch had been made from potatoes, maize, and wheat ; starch made from wheat is the oldest known process, for Pliny mentions it in his Natural History two centuries ago. When ruffles and frills and full-bottomed wigs were the fashion, large quantities of wheat starch were used. There are about forty-five varieties of rice. Most of these rice plants originated in India, and from that country have spread over the whole of Asia, and to other parts of the world. Orlando Jones' invention consisted of the treatment of rice by an alkaline solution, the alkali being used in such a way as to dissolve the gluten without in any way destroying the property of the starch. In 1848 the firm of Orlando Jones & Co. removed from their works at Whitechapel and built a factory in the York Road, with a frontage to the river. The site is now occupied by Dawney's iron and steel works.

The starch business became an extensive one, employ- ing between two hundred and three hundred hands. The manufacture of a new laundry blue, by a process invented by one of the managers, was added to the business in 1896, and attained a large sale. The business was sold to Messrs. Coleman, mustard manufacturers, and transferred to their works at Norwich in 1901, when the Battersea works were closed down.

The Nine Elms Gas Works.

Battersea had some connection with the early intro- duction of gas for general lighting, for it was in 1857 that

BATTERSEA INDUSTRIES. 85

the old London Gas Light Company began the making of gas at Nine Elms Lane, in some new works they had erected. The Company had been formed in 1833, and had made gas in their works at Vauxhail ; the new works at Battersea, the largest in England at that date, marked a great advance in gas manufacture. There were five retort houses and eight purifiers, with four gas holders, which would receive six million feet of gas. The main entrance gate was near the old mill-pond bridge, there were also three other entrances. The number of men employed during the winter season was upwards of four hundred. This number was increased in later years, when the extension of the works, and improved machinery, greatly increased the output of gas.

In 1865 an explosion of gas took place at the works, by which ten men lost their lives, and a great many of the workmen were injured, much damage being done to the adjacent property. John Timbs, in his " History of Inventions," thus describes the accident: "On October 31st, 1865, at the London Gas-light Works, Battersea, a gas holder exploded, killing many workmen. This holder was one of the largest in London, being one hundred and fifty feet in diameter, sixty feet high, and as the side plates were very thick the force of the explosion must have been great, for when the holder burst, there was an immense rush of gas, which instantly caught fire, and shot up in a vast column of flame. The concussion ripped open another gas-holder, when the escaping gas caught fire, and meeting the flames of the first gas-holder, the fire rolled away in one vast expansive flame ; many of the houses in the vicinity were shattered to pieces."

Street gas-lighting does not date very far back, being first used for lighting the streets of London in 1807, and as late as 1826 it was not in general use, for it was strongly opposed, as a great public danger. When it was proposed to light the House of Commons with gas, a member gravely moved that the pipe which conveyed the gas to

86 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

the burners should be fixed three inches from the walls, as a precaution against fire. In 1859, an Act of Parlia- ment was passed to prevent gas works being erected within ten miles of London.

There are other industries of note in Battersea, but as they are, comparatively, of modern growth, they have not been included in this history.

CHAPTER XI. BATTERSEA AND BOTANY.

BOOKS on botany, published in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, show that many varieties of indigenous plants and flowers grew in Battersea about the fields, hedges, and highways. In 1820 William Pamplin, who was a noted florist in his day, had his nurseries and planting grounds on Lavender Hill, where he kept a collection of specimens of plants and flowers which grew in the neighbourhood of Battersea, many of which he supplied to some of the best families about London. The following list of local plants and flowers and their locality, shows an interesting aspect of Battersea in by-gone times.

This list of indigenous plants is largely compiled from the works of Sir J. E. Smith, who published his work on "English Botany" in thirty-six volumes, about 1819. The technical and Latin terms and names are omitted.

Annual Yellow Cress. — Grew in damp low ground near Vauxhall, very rare.

Arrow Head. — Grew by the Thames and in the ditches near Battersea Fields.

Blood-veined Dock. — Though rare, this was found on the bank of a ditch between the nursery and the footpath on Lavender Hill.

Broad Hedge Mustard. — Was found in waste ground about Battersea. Ray says " It came up abundantly after the Great Fire of London, in the years 1667 and 1668."

Broad-leaved Helleborine. — Rather rare, but was found on the banks of Lord Spencer's Park.

88 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Brookweed or Water Pimpernel. — Rare, but has been found in a marshy piece of land near the footpath leading from the Red House to Battersea.

Bur Mary gold. — This grew in great profusion in Batter- sea Fields.

Butter Bur. — Grew in the marshes by the Thames side at Battersea.

Cat Mint. — Not common, was found on the banks of a field adjoining a nursery on Lavender Hill.

Celandine. — Was found in hedge banks near Lavender Hill and Battersea Fields.

Common Bank Carex.—Was found growing abundantly in Battersea Fields.

Common Carex. — This was found growing in a brook at the foot of Lavender Hill.

Common Hemlock. — Was found in the lane running from Clapham Common to Lavender Hill, also by the footpath from Battersea Bridge to the Red House.

Common Skull Cap. — Was found by the side of ditches in Battersea Fields.

Common Tway-blade. — Was found in the meadows at foot of Lavender Hill, near a footpath leading to Balham.

Corn Gromwell. — Not common, at times was seen in the Battersea cornfields.

Corn Salad.— -Was found on dry banks near Lavender Sweep.

Cowslip. — Plentiful in fields on Lavender Hill.

Cut-leaved Nettle. — Very rare, was found in cultivated fields about Lavender Hill.

English Mercury. — Could be found in hedgebanks and in cultivated ground about Battersea.

Enchanter's Nightshade. — Very uncommon, grew in shady lanes, was found in the lane leading from the Fields to the Prince's Head Tavern.

Fetid Goosefoot. — Rare, but was sometimes seen between Lavender Hill and Wandsworth ; it is a weed which grows by the roadside.

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Fine-leaved Water Dropwort. — Grew in the large ditches and pools in Battersea Fields.

Flowering Rush. — Was plentiful in ditches between Battersea Bridge and Vauxhall. A very handsome plant.

Great Yellow Loose Strife. — Found in ditches in Battersea Fields, towards the Red House.

Great Water Dock. — Was to be found in the wide ditches about Battersea Fields.

Great Water Scorpion Grass. — Was found in ditches and the marshy land near Battersea Fields.

Gree?i Panic Grass. — This was rare, sometimes found between the Bridge Road and the Nine Kims, near the footpath.

Hedge Mustard. — Grew on waste ground in dry positions on the L,atchmoor Common.

Hemlock Dropwort. — Grew on the banks of the Thames near Battersea Bridge, close to the Chelsea Waterworks.

Horse Radish. — Seen often in Battersea Fields and Wandsworth Common.

Ivy -leaved Snapdragon. — Grows on old damp walls ; was found at Battersea, Clapham, and Wandsworth.

Lesser Snapdragon. — A pretty annual plant which was found in the Battersea corn-fields.

Loose Pa?iic Grass. — Found on moist, arable land near Battersea.

Marsh Arrow Grass. — Plentiful in the marshes between Battersea Bridge and the Red House.

Pere?mial Dove's-fool Cranes-bill.— Found on the banks near Battersea Fields. Not common.

Remote Carex. — By no means common, has been found in the brook near Lavender Hill.

Rough Panic Grass. — Very rare, Sir J. E. Smith found some in Battersea Fields.

Round-leaved Cranes-bill. — Rare, was found on the banks near the Lavender Hill nursery, and by the roadside near the Prince's Head.

Self-heal. — The white flowered variety seldom met

90 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

with, but has been found in the meadows about Lavender Hill.

Shilling Cranes-bill. — This was not common, but could be found in a lane leading from Clapham Common to Lavender Hill.

Small Marsh Valerian. — Found in the moist meadows about Battersea Fields.

Smooth-headed Poppy . — Very uncommon, a weed which grew in the gardens on Lavender Hill.

Smooth Naked Horse-tail. — Grew plentifully in Batter- sea Fields.

Snapdragon. — Very rare; some was found in arable land on Lavender Hill.

Star of Bethlehem. — This was found on a piece of waste pasture land near the Thames, west of the Red House.

Tall Red Rattle. — Rare, not often seen, sometimes found in the moist meadows near the Red House.

Triangular Club Rush. — This was found on the banks of the Thames between Battersea and Vauxhall.

Upright Annual Broom Grass. — Was seen growing on an old wall near Battersea Church.

Water Aloe. — Could be gathered from a wide brook near the foot of Lavender Hill, also in a pond opposite "The Five Houses," Wandsworth Common.

Water Hemlock. — Grew in the ditches about Battersea. Rather rare.

Water Plantain. — Found in ponds and marshes, but required diligent search, has been found on Lavender Hill near the milestone.

Water Violet. — Was found in the principal ditches near Battersea, and was plentiful on Latchmoor Com- mon.

White Saxifrage. — Was found in meadows between Battersea and Wandsworth.

Wild Endive. — The white variety is very rare, but has been found in Battersea Fields.

BATTERSEA AND BOTANY. 91

Yellow Cress. — Grew near the Thames at Battersea, rather common.

Yellow Goals Beard. — Found in the meadows between Battersea Fields and Lavender Hill.

Yellow Marsh Dock.— Rather rare, was found on the inundated parts of Latchmoor Common.

Yellow Oat Grass. — Grew in the footpath from Batter- sea Bridge to Lavender Hill. Not common.

CHAPTER XII. BATTERSEA BEQUESTS.

THE old-time citizens of Battersea who could claim to be wealthy, did not leave much of their wealth to be enjoyed by their fellow citizens who were not so well endowed with this world's goods. Old records show that a number of bequests were made from time to time, nearly all of which are conspicuously small, but in considering this, it must be remembered, that when many of those bequests were made, it was not the age of millionaires, money was not so much centralised as it is at the present time, fortunes were not so large, and many of our best families lived a more simple life. There was little globe trotting, or hunting of big game in those days, money had not the uses it has now, therefore gentlemen retired from commerce on much smaller fortunes than they do in the present day, and when they made their wills the bequests were smaller. More generosity was also dispensed during the lifetime of wealthy people, as the ties of life between the rich and the poor were much closer than is the case now, when money is often hoarded up by its owner during the whole of his lifetime, nothing being dispensed until his death. Then, again, what was looked upon as a considerable fortune one hundred years ago would be thought a small one in the present age. The value of money is constantly changing, and, dealing with the last century, these features must be considered when comparing old-time bequests with those of the present day.

BATTERSEA BEQUESTS. 93

John Banks Bequest.

By the will of John Banks, dated March 21st, 1716, the sum of £2 10s. each was left to five poor men and five poor women as an annuity ; the conditions were, resi- dence in the parish of Battersea, applicants to be over forty years of age, and nomination by a ratepayer of the parish. The money was left in trust to the Haber- dashers' Company, who had to make a half-yearly payment of the pension at Haberdashers' Hall, and the pensioners were to be provided with a dinner at the cost of the Com- pany. The payments were to continue for the lifetime of the recipients, unless valid reasons could be shewn for its discontinuance.

Ann Cooper Bequest.

Ann Cooper, by her will dated June 22nd, 1720, left £300 in trust for the purchase of land, the rental to be employed for the relief of so many poor persons of the parish as the trustees should appoint, the money could also be used for the purpose of apprenticing poor children to trades. The nett income of this charity is now dis- tributed in money gifts of five shillings each to poor persons belonging to Battersea.

John Edmonds Bequest.

In 1743 John Edmonds left three houses situated in the parish of St. Mary, Colechurch, the houses forming part of Bird-in-Hand Alley in that parish. The income from these houses was to be used for the purpose of apprenticing as many poor boys belonging to the parish of Battersea and Colechurch as the money would allow.

94 HISTORIC BATTER SEA

Mark Beu, Bequest.

In 1789 Mark Bell left ^1,000 upon trust for the benefit of the minister of the dissenting meeting house, Battersea, and his successors. The testator also left ,£200 upon like trust for the benefit of the minister for the time being of an independent meeting house at Beverley, in Yorkshire. The dividend from this first investment is now about £40, which is received by the minister of the Baptist Chapel, York Road.

Rebecca Wood Bequest.

The sum of ^"200 was left by this lady in 1796, the interest of which was to be divided among twenty-four poor families living in Battersea. The money was to be expended in the purchase of bread, coal, and candles, and distributed every seventh day of January.

Haldimand Bequest.

Anthony Haldimand, in 1815, left by will ^"ioo to be invested for the benefit of the poor of Battersea. The interest on this sum is now incorporated with Rebecca Wood's Charity.

John Pavin Bequest.

John Pavin died in 1820, leaving by will the sum of ^1,000 in trust, to provide coal, candles, bread, and six yards of flannel, to be distributed every year, on the 25th of December, amongst forty-four widows residing at Nine Elms and Battersea Fields, the recipients to be selected by the vicar and churchwardens, who were the trustees. He also left the sum of ^1,000 divided as follows: one fourth of the amount to be applied for the benefit of St.

BATTERSEA BEQUESTS. 95

John's School ; one fourth part to be expended in the purchase of bread, which was to be distributed every Sunday at the Battersea Parish Church ; one fourth part to be expended in the purchase of tea and sugar for the aged women in the Battersea Workhouse ; and the remain- ing fourth part to be applied for the benefit of the aged men in the workhouse, who were in the habit of attending divine service in the Parish Church.

Thomas Archer Bequest.

By the will dated August 23rd, 1827, the testator left the sum of ,£100, in trust, for the Battersea poor. The interest on this amount is given in sums of five shillings to persons selected by the Minister and Churchwardens (the trustees).

The Buck and Perkin Bequest.

The following entry appears in an old cash book relating to this bequest to Battersea: — "1828. Messrs. Buck & Perkin, of Wandsworth, gave to this parish the sum of ^500 for the purpose of repairing that portion of the new road within this parish across Battersea and Wandsworth Cynmon, and Nightingale Lane, which road was made by the said two persons." This sum of ^500 was invested in Consols.

John Sheweu* Bequest.

The testator left the amount of £220 in September, 1829, which was to be applied for the benefit of the poor during his sister Mary's lifetime. In an old register relating to the parochial charities of Battersea it is shown that ^40 a year was expended in bread, coal, and clothing, from 1835 until the death of Mary Shewell in 1842.

96 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

John Rapp Bequest.

John Rapp left £200 on December 23rd, 1830, the proceeds of the sale of his estate, which amount was to be invested in three per cent. Consols, the interest to be given annually to four poor men and four women at the discretion of the Vicar and Churchwardens on Christ- mas Day, the amount receivable being fifteen shillings each.

Tritton Bequest.

Henry Tritton, in 1838, left ^"1,000 invested in public funds, the dividend to be paid to the minister for the time being of the Battersea Baptist Chapel, York Road. The amount of interest on this money is about ^40 per annum.

Constable Bequest.

John Charles Constable, in 1849, left £50 to the Vicar of Battersea, to be invested, the interest to provide a dinner every Christmas Day for eight poor families, inhabitants of the parish. The money now amounts to £1 16s. a year and is distributed in money, five shillings being given each family in lieu of a dinner.

Rev. Edwin Thompson Bequest.

This testator bequeathed, in 1872, one quarter of his fortune in trust to the Churchwardens of St. John's Church, Battersea, to invest and distribute the annual income among the poor of the parish in perpetuity, the money to be expended in the best way the trustees see fit.

BATTERSEA BEQUESTS. 97

Juhr Bequest.

Henry Juer made a considerable fortune out of fruit growing. His orchard covered a large tract of land near the river. When he died, in 1874, he left ^500, free of legacy duty, to invest for the benefit of the aged poor of Battersea, the Churchwardens of the Parish Church to be the trustees. The interest on the money was to be given to twelve needy persons, not under sixty years of age, the money to be distributed on February 1st, the anniversary of his birthday. The recipients to be different persons each year, and selected by the Overseers and Church- wardens.

Edward Dagnau, Bequest.

This testator died in 1881, leaving ^"ioo in trust of Churchwardens, to be expended in purchasing, every December, as many loaves as the money would buy, the loaves to weigh four pounds, and to be distributed among widows, born and residing in Battersea, and not under sixty years of age.

Henry Smith Bequest.

This testator left, in 1883, about ^600 for various charities, a portion of which was to be spent among the poor of Battersea, and the trustees expend the money in the purchase of great coats, value £1 each, these coats are distributed every winter to men considered the most deserving.

The Ely Charity.

In 1891 Ashley W. G. Allen left the sum of ^3»o°° in trust to the Vicar and Churchwardens of St. Mary, Battersea, to invest for the purpose of founding " The

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98 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Ely Charity," in memory of his grandfather, some time Bishop of Ely. The trustees were to expend the divi- dends for the benefit of the deserving poor of both sexes belonging to the parish of St. Mary. In 1898 the income amounted to ^114 19s. 4d. The trustees apply the money in contribution to Bolingbroke Hospital, a special bed being maintained in respect of the fund.

The Copland Bequest.

Elizabeth Susan Copeland, in 1893, left £180 to be invested for the benefit of the poor residing in the parish of Christ Church, Battersea, the money is expended in gifts of coal, meat, milk, etc., which is distributed by the Vicar of Christ Church.

Webb Trust.

In January, 1897, Emma, Lady Osbourne, transferred to the official trustees of Charitable Funds, the sum of ^1,891. The dividend of this money to be in keeping of the Vicar of St. Mary's, to be applied for the relief of the poor, the money to be distributed in pensions, pecuniary gifts, clothing, or otherwise. Recipients must be members of the Church of England, and residents of Battersea. The charity is called " Webb's Trust."

Lost Charities.

The records for 1786 show money left to the amount °f £335 for the poor of Battersea, but it cannot be traced, and there is no account of it ever having been dispensed.

CHAPTER XIII.

BATTERSEA CHURCHES OF HISTORICAL

INTEREST.

Baptist Meeting House.

THE first Baptist Meeting House dates from 1736, and was in the York Road. The Rev. Brown was minister for over forty years. In 1796 the Rev. Joseph Hughes, M.A., was appointed the minister, he at once commenced a fund to build a church, and with such success that in 1797 the first church was built and Mr. Hughes was appointed the pastor. Soon after this he originated the " Surrey Mission Society," which did much good work in the early part of the nineteenth century. He was a great friend of Wilberforce and Henry Thornton, with whom he was con- nected in forming the British and Foreign Bible Society. The present Baptist Church was erected in 1870.

St. Mary's.

This church is built of brick, and has a tower with a conical copper spire, the belfry contains a set of eight bells, six of which were in the old church, but were re-cast before being placed in their present position. The ground upon which the church is erected was pre- sented by Earl Spencer, and the total cost of the building was about £5, 300, which amount was raised by the sale of the church pews on a ninety -nine years' lease, the sale of estates belonging to the church, and the grant- ing of annuities on lives. The church was opened for public service in November, 1777.

ioo HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

St. George's

Was built in 1828 near Battersea Fields, and was known as St. George's-in-the-Fields, the style is what is termed English architecture. The building cost a little over ^2,900, which was defrayed out of a rate, and by a grant from the Parliamentary Commissioners. The churchyard was closed for burials in 1852.

Wesi,eyan Church.

The first church of this denomination in Battersea was erected in Bridge Road West about 1845 ; before this time the Wesleyans used to meet in private houses where they held their church services, these were termed "cottage meetings " ; they also used to meet for worship in a large upper room over a joiner's shop in King Street. The church was enlarged in 1864 and again in 1871.

Christ Church.

Built in 1849 from designs by Mr. Charles Lee, the church is constructed of Bath stone, and has a tower with a spire. The total cost of the building was ^"5,600, most of which was raised by subscription. Mr. E. Fownes, head of the glove factory, presented the land upon which the church is built.

Methodist Free Church.

In 1858 this church was built in Church Road by the Free Church members, who had been much persecuted in the early days of their existence. The church was enlarged in 1864.

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St. George's

Was built in 1828 near Battersea Fields, and was known as St. George's-in-the-Fields, the style is what is termed English architecture. The building cost a little over ^2,900, which was defrayed out of a rate, and by a grant from the Parliamentary Commissioners. The churchyard was closed for burials in 1852.

Wesleyan Church.

The first church of this denomination in Battersea was erected in Bridge Road W time

the Wesley ans used to meet in private houses where they held their church services, these were termed : l cottage meetings" ; they also used to meet. for worship* in a large upper room over a joiner's shop in King Street. The church was enlarged in 1864 'and again in 1871.

Christ Church.

Built in 1849 from designs by Mr. Charles Lee, the church is constructed of Bath stone, and has a tower with a spire. The total cost of the building was ^*5,6oo, most of which was raised by subscription. Mr. E. Fownes, head of the glove factory,- presented the land upon which the church is built.

Methodist Free Church.

In 1858 this church was built in Church Road by the Free Church members, who had been much persecuted in the early days of their existence. The church was enlarged in 1864.

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The "New" Baptist Church.

This religious body was commenced in Battersea about 1862 by a working-man, who used to hold the meetings of service in his own house. He soon gathered men of influence around him who contributed funds to build a place of worship, and the first church was built in Chatham Road at the cost of ^1,000. Charles and Thomas Spurgeon have preached here on several occasions.

St. John's.

The church was built in 1862, it is designed in the early English style from drawings by E- C. Robins. Three thousand three hundred pounds were expended in com- pleting this building. The opening service was held on May 5th, 1863.

Congregational Church.

This edifice in the Bridge Road has a fine tower and spire, it is built of " Kentish rag " with Bath stone dressings. The total cost of the building was ^4,500 ; this was the first Congregational Church in Battersea. The foundation stone was laid on September 17th, 1866, and the church was opened for services in 1867.

The Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel and

St. Joseph.

This church was built in 1868 out of funds supplied by a Spanish lady, Mrs. Shea, and private contributions, the Duke of Norfolk contributing ^500. In connection with this church was the convent of Notre Dame, and a boys' and girls' school.

io2 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

St. Mark's.

This church was built in 1873 at a cost of ,£6,500, it is in Gothic style and consists of a chancel, nave, aisles, and transept, the architect was W. White, F.S.A. The church will seat six hundred persons.

Church of the Sacred Heart.

This Roman Catholic Church was erected in 1875, and was then a small iron building which was built at the cost of the Countess of Stackpool. Schools have been added to the new church.

St. Peter's

Was erected in 1875 and cost over £10,000, it is a brick Gothic structure with a lofty tower which can be seen at a great distance. There are some very fine carvings on the capitals inside this church by Henry Hems. There is room for seating eight hundred worshippers. The old tower was removed in 191 1 and the present one erected.

St. Matthew's.

This church has a very fine vaulted roof, the building is in the early English style, and was erected in 1877 at a cost of £3,000. It will seat five hundred persons.

St. Saviour's.

This church was erected at a cost of £4,000 in 1870, from designs by E. C Robins, the style is French Gothic. It was consecrated by Bishop Wilberforce (son of the emancipator). The church will seat seven hundred persons.

BATTERSEA CHURCHES. 103

St. Philip's.

This building, which is in the Gothic style, cost over ,£13,000. It is a fine structure built from designs by James Knowles, it will seat nearly one thousand persons. The church was opened for public worship in 1870. This church is one of the finest ecclesiastical buildings in Battersea.

Primitive Methodist Church.

The first church was built in the New Road about 1870, some ground was also bought in the New Road and schools built. Before the church was erected, the work of this religious body was carried on in an old building in Stewart's L,ane, which was used as a place of worship.

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CHAPTER XIV. OLD BATTERSEA SCHOOLS.

IN the far off days, long before education became com- pulsory and without cost to the scholar or his parents,

the teaching of the three R's was in a very scrappy and unsatisfactory condition. Much of the education then available depended upon bequests left by wealthy and charitable citizens, whose bequests were sometimes supple- mented by the pence of the children attending the schools, and by Government grants.

During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries the stream of education for the masses was at a very low ebb. Most of the parish churches had small schools under their charge, which were often inefficiently conducted. This educational stagnation continued until the beginning of the nineteenth century, when Dr. Bell, who had occupied the post of manager to the Educational Institute of Madras, wrote a book on a system of education by monitorship, a system which he had practised in Madras with great success. In 1811 the National Education Society was formed to put this educational system into an organised form. The society was managed by members of the Church of England, with the Archbishop of Canterbury as President. A new impetus to education was thus given, as the following figures show: In 1812 there were only fifty-two schools under the Society's control, in 1818 there were three thousand and fifty-two schools in con- nection with the Society, and a few years later the total number of schools had risen to nearly twelve thousand. Another great factor in the early education of the people

OLD BATTERSEA SCHOOLS. 107

was the British and Foreign School Society, which did good work in the pioneer days of scholastic work.

The Church of England, by founding "National Schools," did a great work in educating the people ; still the result upon the nation was far from satisfactory. Fifty years ago it was not uncommon to find adults who could neither read or write, never having been to school. The old marriage registers also testify to the ignorance of the people by the number of crosses which were made in place of signatures. To remedy this, night schools were started for the teaching of adults, which schools had a certain amount of success ; adult schools were also held in factories after working hours. The first factory school in England was held in Price's Candle Works at Vauxhall in 1849.

Battersea, like other towns and villages, suffered from this want of a sound system of schooling, and some of her citizens came forward and assisted the boys and girls of a by-gone generation to obtain a little educational knowledge.

St. John's School.

In the year 1700, Sir Walter St. John left, by deed of gift, the rents and profits accruing from land situated in Camberwell and Battersea for the endowment of a school at Battersea, to teach and instruct twenty poor boys to read, write, and cast up accounts. No child was to be admitted under the age of eight, or to remain in the school after the age of fifteen. The school was managed by trustees, and children were admitted into the school by the votes of the inhabitants. By a will dated March 8th, 1705, Sir Walter gave to the Minister of Battersea, to the schoolmaster, and to the trustees of the school, the sum of ^200 for the purchase of land, the income to be used for apprenticing boys to trades, after leaving the school. The school consisted of a house and small

108 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

garden, the rooms of the house which were not used for the purpose of the school were let to poor people at a small rental. In 1731 L,ady St. John left in her will the sum of ;£ioo, the interest of which was to be used for the purpose of apprenticing one boy or girl to a trade. The St. John School continued in existence as a separate institution until 1815, when it was united to the National School.

Grovb British School.

Old records show that about 1800 a charity school was opened in the York Road which was supported by voluntary contributions. The school was used for the purpose of " teaching poor boys reading, writing and the lower rules of arithmetic." The establishment was under the management of a committee, chosen by the sub- scribers. This school was carried on until 1858, when a new building was erected, consisting of a large hall and other rooms. The building was then used for both Sunday and day schools, and received a Government grant until 1887, when the day school was closed, the place being open only as a Sunday school. The building was finally demolished in 191 2.

St. Mary's School.

In 1 85 1 Earl Spencer and Mr. Shaw Lefevre gave a school site in Green Lane for the erection of a school to educate female children and the adults of the poorer classes residing in Battersea. The vicar was to have managing control, he was also to have the use of the building as a Sunday school. The school was erected on this site at a cost of ^2,000, this money being contributed by Miss Champion. In 1875 the school was considerably enlarged, by which accommodation was provided for boys, the cost of the new building amounted to ^1,500,

OLD BATTERSEA SCHOOLS. 109

which was paid by Mr. Philip Cazenove, who was one of the school managers. The school was conducted, on Church of England lines, for the education of boys, girls and infants, and supported by Government grants, the only endowment being the site and the buildings.

St. George's National School.

John Spencer Lucas, in 1857, gave a plot of land in New Street, Battersea, for the erection of a school which was to be used for educating children and adults belong- ing to the working classes. The school was built in the following year and served a good purpose for man}' years. In 1895 a portion of the school premises were sold to the South Western Railway Company for the sum of ^2,750, which was paid to the trustees, the vicar and church- wardens of St. George's Church. A large portion of this money was expended in repairs, alterations and improve- ments of the school buildings. The school was conducted as a Church of England school, supported by voluntary contributions and by grants.

Christ Church National School.

In 1866 a plot of land was purchased abutting on Chatham Street, Orkney Street and Anerly Street, for the purpose of erecting a school, at a cost of ^520, and conveyed to the minister and churchwardens of Christ Church, Battersea ; the school was erected for educating the poor children of the parish. In 1871 the district of St. Saviour's was formed, which had an interest in the school, as the building was used as a Sunday school. In 1876 it ceased to be used as a day school, as it failed to meet the requirements of the educational department. The school was built and supported by endowments, voluntary contributions and grants.

no HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

The Masonic School.

The Royal Masonic School was built in 1793 for the purpose of educating and maintaining a number of girls, the children of " Masons " in reduced circumstances. The school was founded at the suggestion of Chevalier Ruspini, who was surgeon to King George IV. The first school was built in St. George's Field's, near the Obelisk, and was supported entirely by voluntary contributions. In 1851 land was purchased at Battersea for the erection of a new school, which was opened in 1853. This school had the support of King Edward VII., and other members of the Royal Family.

St. James' School.

This industrial school was built in 1851 and opened in 1852, out of the funds of a charity left in 1806. One hundred and forty boys were admitted, vacancies being filled up as the boys left. When they finished their term at the school, the sum of ^10 was given for each boy to be taught a trade, or assisted in learning some business. In connection with this school Mrs. Anne Newton left, by will, in 1806, the sum of ^1,000, the interest of this money was to be given annually to the best boy in the school. The will went into Chancery, and the school only received about ^"500. The best boy was selected by his fellow scholars and the superintendent.

CHAPTER XV. LOCAL GOVERNMENT.

SIXTY years ago Battersea was a small parish under the rule of several authorities, viz., a Vestry, a High- way Board, Overseers, and Inspectors of Lighting. The Vestry was composed of every ratepayer in the parish and was not an elected body. The vicar was the chair- man, and the meetings were held in the parish church vestry room. Despite the place of meeting, the debates were often of a stormy character, and the language used far from parliamentary, the votes were taken by show of hands, and if a poll was demanded, the churchwardens would go round the parish asking each ratepayer how he wished to vote on the question at issue, the result was recorded in a book and reported to the Vestry. The Over- seers made and collected the poor rate, and tabulated the list of persons entitled to vote in parliamentary elections.

The Highway Board was elected in open Vestry by show of hands, and consisted of eight members. The In- spectors of Lighting were elected in a similar manner.

In 1854 Sir Benjamin Hall, Commissioner of Works, framed a Bill for the improvement of local government which was very comprehensive, and was entitled " The Metropolis Local Management Act." This Bill passed the Houses of Parliament and became law in 1855. Under this Act the various parishes were divided under schedules known as A, B, and C, with varied powers. Schedule A comprised the larger parishes, and the smaller ones came under Schedule B, several of these parishes in one area

ii2 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

being dominated by the Board of Works. Schedule C comprised the Inns of Court, and other extra areas.

At this time the population of Battersea did not exceed 11,500, and therefore came under Schedule B, with its limited powers of administration, and no funds at its disposal. The number of members composing the Vestry was regulated by the population, the smallest number being twenty-four, and the highest one hundred and twenty. Battersea's first elected Vestry comprised the lowest number of members. The Board of Works had to carry out the duties of a highway, sewer and sanitary authority. The Act provided that the vicar of the parish should remain ex-officio chairman of the new Vestry, and the churchwardens were to be co-opted members. The election of Vestrymen took place annually. At this time Penge, then a small hamlet, formed part of the parish of Battersea.

The inhabitants of the parish had certain Lammas rights over some land known as the Battersea Marsh, this land was required for the formation of Battersea Park, and for those rights the Government paid ^1,500, which was to be expended for the benefit of the parish, and as there was no hall for public meetings in the parish, it was decided to build one for that purpose, this was strongly opposed by the churchwardens, who had other uses for the money. They took legal proceedings against those op- posed to them, but in the Law Courts they were defeated and had to pay all costs. The Lammas Hall was then built, and proved a great boon to the parish ; for many years it was the meeting place for the new Vestry, and was used for the holding of public meetings. The building is now used as a branch library and reading rooms.

The rateable value of Battersea in 1857 was £72, 148. About this time there came into existence the first rate- payers' association in Battersea, which was destined to be the forerunner of many others, it was called the "Battersea Ratepayers' Protection Society," and seems to have found

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plenty of work to do in watching the ratepayers' interests ; its meetings were held at the Railway Tavern, Battersea Rise, and many of them were very stormy and of a per- sonal character, which in those far-off days was a weak- ness of most ratepayers' associations, and to some extent is to-day.

In 1853 the parish churchyard was closed for inter- ments, and a Burial Board was formed consisting of nine members. One of the first acts of the Board was to pur- chase about seven and a half acres of land on Battersea Rise, which they laid out as a cemetery. This served its purpose until 1885, when the Vestry and the Burial Board resolved to provide a much larger place of burial, and several sites were suggested, but the final selection was a piece of land of over one hundred and twenty-four acres in the parish of Morden, known as Hobalt's Farm. This cemetery, with the buildings, cost nearly ^25,000.

In 1879 an effort was made to get the Baths and Wash- houses Acts adopted, but this was not successful until 1887 when a piece of the Latchmere allotments was obtained as a building site, and the first public baths were erected in Battersea after nine years' fight had been waged by the promoters.

As the population grew the number of members upon the Vestry increased, and in 1882 it had reached the maxi- mum of one hundred and twenty members, with increased representation upon the District Board.

Early in the year i860 an attempt was made to obtain a public library for the parish. A meeting of the rate- payers was called and Sir Page Wood took the chair, but the meeting voted against the proposal and the matter was dropped, to be again revived in 1883, when a poll was taken of the ratepayers, with the result that the majority were not in favour of adopting the Libraries Act. The promoters were not dismayed but went on with their work until 1887, when they demanded another poll, and this time with success, getting a majority in their favour.

H

ii4 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

The Public Libraries Act was adopted, and Mr. Andrew Cameron — a well-known public man in bis day — was the first chairman of the Commissioners, and Mr. Lawrence Inkster was appointed secretary and librarian. Temporary offices were taken at 346 Battersea Park Road, which was also opened as a reading room, and on the 28th November, 1888, the Latchmere reading room was opened. The Battersea Literary Institute having been closed the churchwardens transferred the books, about one thousand volumes, to the new library. The meetings of the Com- missioners was held in the Lammas Hall, which was opened as a reading room and lending library with about five thousand volumes. Mr. O. V. Morgan, the first member of Parliament for Battersea, opened the library on October 25th, 1888. The Central Library on Lavender Hill was erected in 1889, by Messrs. Holloway Bros., at a cost of £8,600 including purchase of site. Sir John Lubbock (now Lord Avebury), laid the foundation stone on May 2nd. The library was opened on March 26th, 1890, by Mr. A. J. Mundella, M.P. The Lammas Hall now became a branch library. The Lurline Gardens branch was built in the same year at a cost of £2,070 including the freehold, and was opened on September 30th, 1890, by Mr. J. S. Gilliat, M.P.

Up to 1873 the parish had not been divided into wards, but in that year, by order of the Board of Works, the parish was divided into four wards. About this time a great deal of scandal was being talked about the doings of the Board, and rumours of an ugly nature were in circula- tion, some of the members were men with axes to grind, and the Board of Works came to be commonly known as the Board of " Perks," all this did a great deal to bring about the extinction of the Metropolitan Board of Works in 1888.

Battersea did not obtain incorporation until 1887, many efforts had been made to get the Vestry incorporated during the previous ten years, deputations had been sent

LOCAL GOVERNMENT. 115

to the Home Office, and the claims of Battersea had been pressed forward by Mr. Edward Wood, and Mr. Harrop, Vestry Clerk, on every possible occasion, but no success came until 1887, when Mr. C. S. By worth enlisted the assistance of Mr. O. V. Morgan, M.P., and in that year a Bill was before the House of Commons to separate the parish of Battersea from the Wandsworth district and the Board of Works. Mr. Gilliatt, then member for Clapham, ably supported Mr. Morgan, and in due course the Bill received the Royal assent. Under this Act it was provided that the parish should take over the offices at Battersea Rise belonging to the District Board, and retain the ser- vices of the officers of the Board. On March 22nd, 1888, Mr. Byworth, who had been appointed Vestry Clerk in 1885, took possession of the Battersea Rise offices, and the Vestry met for the first time as a corporate body. Mr. W. Davies was elected the first chairman.

As the parish increased in population, and the work of the Vestry became greater, the Battersea Rise offices were found to be much too small for the growing needs of the parish, and schemes were put forward by the Vestry for the erection of a Town Hall. Various sites were suggested, including the corner of St. John's Road, where Messrs. Arding & Hobbs' premises now stand, Battersea Park Road and Falcon Road, but the final decision of the Vestry was in favour of Lavender Hill, and a committee was in- structed in 1891 to purchase the Elm House Estate, which was then in the market, and in 1892 the plans, etc., were passed, and the present municipal buildings were erected at a cost of a little over ^"30,000. The opening ceremony took place on November 15th, 1893, by the Earl of Rosebery, and shortly after the Vestry removed their officials from Battersea Rise to the new buildings, which have since been the centre of municipal authority.

In 1894 the vicar and churchwardens ceased to be ex- officio members of the Vestry, and the old Burial Board, the Commissioners of Baths and Wash-houses, and the

n6 HISTORIC BATTERSEA.

Commissioners of Public Libraries, were transferred to the Vestry. This form of local government by Vestry con- tinued up to the close of 1899, when the Borough Councils came into existence as a new administrative body with extended power.

THE END.

G. Rangecroft & Co., Printers, St. John's Hill, Battersea, S.W.

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