5S or SOS: fe THE ANNUAL ADDRESS TO THE BERWICKSHIRE NATURALISTS’ CLUB, DELIVERED AT THE ANNIVERSARY MEETING, HELD AT ALNMOUTH, IN NORTHUMBERLAND, ON THURSDAY, THE 24TH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1857. BY WM. DICKSON, F.AS., OF WHITECROSS, IN BERWICKSHIRE, AND OF ALNWICK, IN NORTHUMBERLAND. “MARE ET TELLUS, ET, QUOD TEGIT OMNIA, CHLUM.” ALNWICK: PRINTED AT THE MERCURY OFFICE BY WILLIAM DAVISON. 1857. PROCEEDINGS OF THE BERWICKSHIRE NATURALISTS’ CLUB. The Annual Address, delivered at Alnmouth, on the 24th of September, 1857. By Witt1am Dickson, F.A.S., President for the year. It now becomes my duty, to resign into your hands, the office of President, an honor, which was thrust upon me, at your last anniversary meeting. As a Berwickshire Landowner, and a-member of your Club, of some years’ standing, I could hardly have refused this responsibility, yet I should have been glad to have escaped from it, from a feeling of inability, satisfactorily to discharge its duties; besides, I found remonstrance was in vain, owing to a stringent Rule of the Club. I, therefore, felt I had no option; I threw myself on your forbearance, and I have not been disappointed. The several meetings of the year have been marked, as usual, with plea- sant intercourse. The early rising and the delightful rambles, in well chosen localities, raise the spirits, and conduce to health and enjoyment. ‘‘This sunny morning, Roger, cheers my blood, And puts all nature in a jovial mood— How heartsome is’t to see the rising plants ! To hear the birds chirp o’er their pleasant rants ! How wholsome is’t to snuff the caller air, And all the sweets it bears, when void of care!” d ies Address. The papers read have, I think, added something to the stores of the natural and local history of the district, recorded from time to time, in your printed transactions. The motto chosen by our Founder, ‘‘ Mare et tellus, et, quod tegit omnia, Celum,”’ marks the extended range he intended for your examination. What you have already done, proves you have not worked in vain. I trust you will proceed in your onward course, and that at every meeting of the Club, each member will endeavour to add his mite and thus increase the general stock of knowledge. _ Many of your Presidents have been men of great science, learning and ability, and this makes me feel my unfitness for the office, especially as there are now, within your own body, so many individuals much better qualified to preserve the character of your Club. The chief duty of President, I imagine, is to attend all the meetings if possible, to enable him the better, in his address, to review the proceedings of the period over which he has pre- sided—to note the papers read and the leading features of the information obtained—to mention new plants and their local- ities—and, indeed, all that is curious, novel, and interesting in animal or vegetable life, brought to light by the investigations of the Club. And to touch, agreeable to the original rules, on the antiquities and local history of the district. In all this he receives much assistance from the experience and abilities of the Secretary, as well as from individual members of the society—especially, if he be a naturalist, he who, “ peeps around For some rare flowret of the hills, or plant, Of craggy fountain; what he hopes for, wins ; Or learns at least, that ’tis not to be won.”’ Or a geologist, ‘“ Who, with pocket hammer smites the edge Of luckless rock, or prominent stone, disguised In weathered stains, or crusted o’er by nature With her first growth, detaching by the stroke A chip or splinter, to resolve his doubts ; And, with that ready answer satisfied, The substance classes, by some barbarous name.’’— Anniversary Address. 5 Thus Wordsworth ironically describes our most active and useful members. The anniversary meeting was held at Alnwick, on Wed- nesday the 24th of September, 1856. The members present (according to seniority of election) were, Robert Embleton, P. J. Selby, the Rev J. D. Clark, Wm. Dickson, F.A.S., George Tate, F.G.S., the Rev. L. S. Orde, the Rev. Wm. Darnell, John Church, the Rev. Geo. Selby Thompson, Dr. G. RK. Tate, and John Church, jun., (a visitor.) After breakfasting at the Star Inn, the members proceeded to view the Cartoon drawn by William Dyce, Esq., R.A., ‘of the School of Design, Somerset House, from which the stained glass of the great east window of St. Paul’s Church, Alnwick, is copied. As a work of art, this Cartoon is un- rivalled, and will bear a much closer inspection than we were able to devote to it. The Castle, Barony, Manor, Borough, and Town of Alnwick has been fully described in a History, published by Mr. William Davison, bookseller, in the year 1822, to which I must refer. I may, however, make a few additions and re- marks, as they may be useful to future historians. Alnwick is a Parish by reputation, but in a legal point of view it is only a Chapelry, within the parish of Lesbury. Lesbury, with its chapels of Alnwick, Houghton, and Aln- mouth were anciently granted to Alnwick Abbey, by the former Lords of Alnwick; and at the dissolution of monas- teries, when the King came to dispose of the Rectorial tithes, the corn tithes of Alnwick are described in the King’s grant, parcel of the Rectory of Lesbury. The Barony of Alnwick was the centre of a great district, and the Castle was always a Fortress of much importance ; belonging to the Tysons, De Vescies, and Percies. Attached to it were Manors in Demesne, that is to say, those which the Barons held in their own hands, and with the produce of which, the dignity of the Baron was kept up. These manors were about twenty-five in number. Then again, the great Baron of Alnwick, in the days of military tenures, granted out to his followers, other manors, 6 Anniversary Address. to be held by them, by Knight Service ; these are called the Manors in Service, and were in number about sixty. Their services consisted in guarding the Castle of Alnwick and winding a horn to give notice of the approach of an enemy and to alarm the country, besides all the other duties incident to Knight Service. Many of these services, were in very early times commuted into a money payment; such as ‘‘For cornage, Is. 8d., for Castle Guard Rent, 6s. 8d. or 13s. 4d.” according to the size of the manor. These sums are paid by the Lords of many of these manors to the present day, and others have ceased to pay for reasons not now easily discovered ; probably when the Percy estates were in the crown, on attainders, they may have been granted away, and thus released from their allegiance. In any future history, it will be a curious and interesting chapter to trace the descent of these manors, and how some of them have ceased to be connected with the Barony. The inspection of the Cartoon leads me to note the erection and endowment of the church of St. Paul. It was one of the many noble and public acts of Hugh the 3rd Duke of Nor-. thumberland. It is a perfect model of an early English church ; the light tapering columns are chaste and pleasing, but I am not sure it is so suitable to our cold northern climate as the ‘Massive arches broad and round, That rose alternate, row and row, On ponderous columns, short and low, Built ere the art was known, By pointed aisle, and shafted stalk, The arcades of an alley’d walk, To emulate in stone.” The length of St. Paul’s church is 128 feet, breadth 59 feet, has 2 side aisles and clere story windows, a square tower, embattled, of 100 feet high. It was consecrated by Edward Maltby, Bishop of Durham, on the 16th of October, 1846, and cost above £20,000. His Grace died in 1847, and since then Her Grace his widow, at a great cost, purchased the mansion and grounds of Croft House, in the immediate vicinity of the church, and Anniversary Address. 7 vested them in the Incumbent and his successors for ever, as “‘ 8t. Paul’s Parsonage.” Her Grace also erected in the church a massive monument to the memory of her late husband, a full-length figure of the Duke, in the robes of a Knight of the Garter. The likeness is excellent. And to crown the whole, the friends of the late Duke, out of respect to his memory, subscribed for a memorial window, to be placed in the east end of that church, of which he was the Founder and Patron. The Cartoon which was furnished by Mr. Dyce, as before mentioned, was sent to the Royal ‘manufactory at Munich, and there the glass work was executed under the superintendence of Professor Ainmuller, in the very best style of the art of glass staining; the King of Bavaria himself taking great interest in having it completed in the most perfect manner. The subject of the painting is the preaching of the Apostles Paul and Barnabas at Antioch, and so beautiful is the execu- tion, that it is the admiration of all who have seen it. To understand the work, it is necessary to peruse the 13th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles ; but the 46th verse is the one to which the picture has particular reference. It repre- sents St. Paul turning from the Jews to the Gentiles, and in the act of addressing those unbelievers :—‘‘ Then Paul and Barnabas wazed bold, and said, It was necessary that the word of God should first have been spoken to you: but seeing ye put it from you, and judge yourselves unworthy of ever- lasting life, lo, we turn to the Gentiles.” The picture occupies the five principal lights in the window, the centre by the two Apostles, on their left are the Jews, and the Gentiles are on the right side. Rage and intense jealousy are depicted in the countenances of the former, while the latter are characterized by gentleness and meekness. In the lower part of the centre light is the following inscription :— ‘““In the year MDCCCLVI this window is placed by public subscription to the much valued memory of Hugh the 3rd Duke of Northumber- land, the Founder of this Church.” 8 Anniversary Address. And at the bottom of the other lights, are the arms of some of the Baronies, which the late Duke was entitled to bear, viz: Percy, Lucy, Brabant, Poinings, Fitz-Payne, Bryan and others. His Majesty the King of Bavaria was much gratified by the result of the work. The Baron de Cetto, the Bavarian Minister, took an active part. Sir John Milbank, the English Minister at Munich, inter- ested himself. And Mr. Muster declares it to be by far the most artistical performance in glass that he has yet seen in this country. £. Soy sade The cost of the Cartoon was............ 500 0 O The glass and staining at Munich...... 370° Oa0 Wire guards, carriage, and other ex- 169; 540 DEMIGOS! ec cee ticlet sae ce dutislenenewneaes £1639 5 0 The acts of the late Duke (of which this noble Church was the closing one of his earthly career) were such as to be worthy of the Good, the Great, and the Noble; they are per- petual and useful memorials, and will live for ever in the hearts of successive generations. I have dwelt thus much on St. Paul’s Church, as it is new matter, and interesting, not only at the place of our October meeting, but to a far more extended circle. The party then visited the Castle, where His Grace the Duke and the Duchess received them in the Library, showed them the plans and drawings of the various projected improve- ments; they were then conducted over the whole of the works, under the guidance of Mr. Wilson, the resident architect, and now one of the members of our Club ; they admired the solemn grandeur of the inner ward, the space and solidity of the great staircase, and the elegance of the saloon, where the splendid ceiling of carved wood, gorgeous with gold and colouring, was then being put up. From thence they hastily passed through the library, vestibule, drawing and dining-rooms, the chapel and other places. In an address of this kind I Anniversary Address. 9 can only venture to give an outline, which may be filled up by some future President, when these great works are com- pleted. The architect is Anthony Salvin, Esq., of London, who has gained his celebrity by his own talents, cleverness, and correct taste. I am enabled to give a ground plan of the Castle as it existed in 1650, during the time of Algernon the 10th Earl of Northumberland ; also, a ground plan of the improvements now in the course of completion, by Algernon, the present and 4th Duke. GROUND PLAN IN 1650. 25 oh, a iii WHAT EN TUTTI ee SN | anon ( 6 VY, ———— mi \S Ly S five 19 ¢ \ S ; \ SS AN SS Z RN . or | Gi — | 3S r——_— _—=——_ Yr ) \\ 1. Corner Tower. 2. Garret. 3. Stables. %* Porter’s Lodge. 4. Exchequer. 7. Garret. 8. Outer Ward or Ballivm. 9. Middle Gateway. 11. Garret. 12. Entrance. Port. 14. Garden Tower. 17. Conduit. 18. Constable Tower. 19. Garret. 20. Ravine. Tower. 21. Corner Tower. 23, Moat. 24. Draw Bridge. 25. Entrance. 5. Garret. 6. Abbott’s Tower. * Auditor’s Tower. 10. Inner Ward of Keep or Dungeon. 13. Postern Tower and Sally 15. Middle Ward. 16. Chapel. 22. Stream from the Moors. 10 Anniversary Address. The alterations made in the Castle about the year 1770, cam be seen on reference to Mr. Davison’s History of Alnwick, published in 1822. GROUND PLAN IN 1857. 1. Library. 2. Ante-room. 3. Saloon, 4. Drawing-room. 5. Dining-room. 6. Chapel. 7. Gallery. 8. Bed-room. 9. Dressing-room. 10. Bed-rooms. 11. Dressing-room. 12. Small Dining-room. 13. Vestibule. 14. Corridor. 15. Lobby. 16. Sitting-room. 17. Dressing-room. 18. Bed- room. 19. Dressing-room. 20. Sitting-room. 21. Lifts. 22. Corridor. His Grace is the fourth great builder in his family, and he is now engaged in improving the residence of his ancestors ; preserving all that is ancient, and restoring those parts to their original style of architecture which the false taste of the period, when the last alterations were made, had mutilated. For some years after his accession to the Dukedom, his ample resources were chiefly devoted to draining his extensive estates, making new farm buildings, and in improving, by erections and repairs, the cottages of the labouring classes. These important works are still in progress, and with the outlay at the Castle, give employment to an extensive class of labourers. Anniversary Address. ll Some of the party proceeded to the Parks, and there enjoyed a ramble amidst woods and waters and the varied scenery of those delightful grounds, ' “ Ever charming, ever new, When will the landscape tire the view ? The fountains fall, the rivers flow, The woody valley, warm and low— The windy summit, wild and high, Roughly rushing to the sky— The pleasant dell, the ruined tower, The naked rock, the shady bower, The town and village, dome and farm, Each lends to each a double charm, Like pearls upon an Ethiop’s arm.”’ I must direct the attention of the Club to the Silver Firs (Pinus picea) on the rocky banks, overhanging the Lady’s Well, near Hulne Abbey, as being remarkable for health, size, and beauty. His Grace’s Forester has given me the sizes of nine of them, thus :— Height Girth at Contents in three feet from in feet. surface. Cubic feet. f§ Sims e.Silver Pir 2)... 108 tt Saat 340 eS 112 10 10 356 Average Br ditto, sc. 105 10. 2 360 ate Calas Be ditto... 022: 107 ql 10 345 Hook 5. CittoweSsrmace: 104 12 9 510 Gabhditiasil keri. 108 12 3 380 Peta CittOserspra ced ¥. 109 Iz 0 395 8 Glin C04 eae eae 108 13. ~0 370 9 GiGtOM ss seis 103 10 10 315 And on the opposite side of the river, are some Larch Firs (Pinus lariz) of great size and beauty, having from 110 to 160 cubic feet of timber in each of them. Nor must I forget to mention the celebrated “ Trysting Tree,” by the side of the high carriage road, from the bridge at Filberthaugh to Hulne Abbey. This aged and knarled oak, which has for so many centuries braved the fury of the elements, is now so much decayed, you may creep through the 12 Anniversary Address. trunk. It is the common oak (Quercus robur), and judging from its present circumference, it must have been a splendid specimen when in its prime. I cannot even guess its age. It must have been a great tree in 1624, as at that time it gave its name to the wood in which it stood, as appears from an old vellum plan at Alnwick Castle (tempore James Ist) as “the Trysting Treewood.” A board is to be seen among its branches with this name painted upon it. For all that can be said upon the subject of Trysting trees, I must refer you to Johnston’s Eastern Borders, vol. 1, p. 242. Why it is called the Trysting Tree, I do not know, unless being half- way between the Abbeys of the Carmelites of Hulne, and the Premonstratensians of Alnwick Abbey, it may have been their place of meeting. This antique oak, where Holy Friars meet, Their beads to tell, or pater nosters say ; Or, higher converse hold, around this seat, By times at night, or in the blaze of day. Or its trunk may have had around it “seats beneath the shade, For talking age, and whispering lovers made.”’ Another venerable tree which stood in the wall of the church- yard, called the ‘“‘ Boome Tree,”’ deserves a passing note. It was blown down on Ash Wednesday 17th of February, 1836. It was a noble specimen of the common ash (Fraxinus excelcior.) Girth at the lower part 132 feet, and the same for 7 feet up, when it divided into two branches. Girth of the bottom of the western branch 10 feet 6 inches, and of the same branch 45 feet from the ground, 6 feet; girth of the bottom of the eastern branch 9 feet, and 35 feet from the ground, 6 feet. The tree looked sound, but its roots were entirely gone, and when it was blown over the churchyard was not disturbed, and not a root was to be seen. Many particulars of this tree are recorded in the vestry book; no doubt the name is from ‘ Boome,” saxon, a tree. —(Bailey’s Dictionary.) It was sold by auction, after the circulation of the following handbill :— Anniversary Address. 13 A Relic of the Days of our FOREFATHERS. Co be Sally, BY AUCTION, T. STAMP, AUCTIONEER, On Monday, Feb. the 22nd, inst. NEAR THE CHURCH GATES, THE REMAINS OF THE VENERABLE BOOME TREE, SupPposED to have been Planted in the Reign of EDWARD the FOURTH, nearly 400 Years ago! Sale to begin at 2 o’Clock. Alnwick, February 18th, 1836. The members reassembled at the Star to dinner; after which, the minutes were read, Captain Selby and others were proposed, for election and I was elected President for the en- suing year. Mr. George Tate then read a paper upon the Geology of the Farne Islands, now printed in the third volume of our transactions. The President, Mr. Embleton, was requested to deliver another address, to bring the routine of the Club into its regular course, from which it had been disturbed by the lamented death of Dr. Johnston. This he readily agreed to do, and to read it at the next meeting ; this was fixed to be at Belford, and the members were specially invited by the Rev. John Dixon Clark to partake of the hospitalities of his mansion on that occasion. I may add, with reference to Mr. Tate’s paper on the Islands, that they were the patrimony of St. Cuthbert, and one of the most ancient possessions of the church of Lindisfarne, after- wards of Chester-le-Street, and finally of Durham. They continued to be the property of the Prior and Convent of 14 Anniversary Address. Durham, down to the time of the dissolution. They were grant- ed by King Hen. VIII. with the other possessions to the Dean and Chapter of Durham, to whom they now belong ; they have for ages been accustomed to be leased for 21 years, renewable every 7 years. The Venerable Charles Thorp is the present lessee thereof, by purchase from aformer lessee. He has restored St. Cuthbert’s Chapel, and Divine Service is now frequently performed there to the Inhabitants in the summer season. The congregation generally musters about 30. The views of the Farne Islands, as you look down upon the scene from the walls of Bamburgh Castle, are beautifully developed when well lighted up by the rays of the sun, in a clear summer afternoon. Cast your fix’d eye, north, south, and far to sea, Then say, if ever, on a summer eve, A fairer scene, more pure, or yet more calm, Or one more lovely, can be looked upon. The constant murmer of the rolling waves, Chasing each other with their whiten’d curves, Upon the bright, the smooth, and yellow sands, Back’d up behind, with miles of darken’d blue, Of the deep boundless ocean ;_ rolling on, For ever restless, but for ever free. The hardy sailor even fears to trust Himself and bark upon its wide domain. At times, the gentle spray curls on the waves, Murmurs along the smooth and sandy shore, With never ending play and joyfulness ; While the soft breeze, a gentle curl doth raise, Ending, at last, in a most fearful storm. And now the breakers, white with yesty foam, Dash their great curved billows on the strand, With unresisting, and resistless force, The very ground is trembling with dismay. Not so with man, for by a strict decree, The mighty ocean can not pass its bounds ; Thus far shalt thou come, but further not, The smallest grains of sand shall thee restrain, Anniversary Address. Hurl back thy waves, and merge them in the deep. Again, at times smooth as the smoothest glass, On its fair bosom clouds of freighted ships In safety rest ; while in an hour or less All, all are scattered by a sudden gust, The shore is strewed with wreck, and happy those Who can in time a place of refuge find While the storm lasts; then all again is still. And where along this dark and dreary coast, Can such a place be found, so near at hand, For the half-drown’d and houseless mariner, As in the chambers of King JIda’s towers, Now Bamburgh Castle, beetling o’er the deep, Where thousands have found shelter and a home. Admire the darken’d Islands in the sea, On whose rugged sides and igneous rocks, The whiten’d breakers never cease to play. The Crumstone sunk, then rais’d above the sea, As the tide flows and re-flows, at each turn A foaming mass, or like a mirror smooth, Lurking with danger to the hardy crew, So fatal is this sunken, rocky shore. © The other islands studded in the sea, In the sun’s rays shine out in bold relief ; The chapel of the Holy Anchorite, Once more restored, and his rude dwelling place, The whiten’d walls of the neat trimmed lighthouse, And the dull red one farthest out at sea, Form a sweet picture, and contrasting well With the dry dulness of those Island Shores. Then see the churn, which ever and anon, Sends up its spray, full fifty feet or more, And then falls back for parent strength to seek ; Again it rushes, and again sends up The huge tall column from the mighty main, Well watched by gaping rustics from the shore. Observe the vessels sailing to and fro’, The blacken’d steam boats with long trains of smoke, 15 16 Annwwersary Address. The tall red lighthouse, where the dauntless maid Her feats of daring in the sea perform’d. Whilst all these scenes, the circling horizon, Incloses in the whole, as in a frame, Well gilded by the evening setting sun. The first meeting under my Presidency was held at Belford Hall, on Wednesday the 29th of October. It was of an ex- ceptional nature, being by special invitation from the Rev. J. D. Clark to each member to breakfast and dine with him. The Club broke through one of their rules, to accept of the hos- pitality of one, who had been their President in 1845, and always an active member of the Society. They certainly were entertained by him in a right splendid manner. The members present were, Robert Embleton, (the Secretary), P. J. Selby, Dr. Clarke, Rev. J. D. Clark, David Macbeath, John Boyd, William Dickson, (President for the year), Rev. George Rooke, H. Gregson, Major Elliott, Patrick Clay, George Tate, Rev. L. S. Orde, W. H. Logan, John Church, William Dickson, the younger, Dr. G. R. Tate, William Boyd, Dr. George Douglas, Rev. George Hans Hamilton, Charles Rea, R. G. Huggup, John Church, jun., Captain George Selby, R.N., Lieutenant Patrick Johnston, R.N., and Stephen Fryar Gillum, (as a visitor.) The founder of our Club, the late Dr. Johnston, contempla- ted publishing the Natural History of the Eastern Borders, comprising the district in which our Society has laboured, viz., ** Berwickshire, Liberties of Berwick, North Durham, and the immediately adjacent parts of Northumberland and Roxburghshire.” We lived to complete one interesting volume, ‘‘ The Botany of the Eastern Borders” ; to which is added his Lecture read to the Mechanics’ Institute of Ber- wick, in 1851, entitled ‘“‘ Our Wild Flowers in relation to our Pastoral Life.’ The same volume contains the valuable paper entitled ‘“‘ The Fossal Flora of the Mountain Lime- stone Formation of the Eastern Borders, in connection with the Natural History of Coal,” by Mr. George Tate, one of our most enthusiastic Members. Anniversary Address. 17 Dr. Johnston having left materials towards a second volume for finishing the subject, Mrs. Johnston very kindly stated that the whole of the manuscript was at the disposal of the Club, It was then arranged after some discussion that Mr. Embleton, our Secretary, should examine it, and make a communi- cation upon the matter ; in the mean time, a vote of thanks upon the motion of the President was unanimously given to Mrs. Johnston ‘for the offer of the manuscript, and to assure her the Club would endeavour to finish what her late lamented husband had so well begun.” Her son, Lieutenant Patrick Johnston, R.N. was proposed as an Honorary Member, and was unanimously elected, as a compliment to the memory of his late father. Besides him, there were elected at the meeting, Mr. John Church, jun., Bell’s Hill, Mr. Charles Watson, Dunse, Captain George Selby, R.N., Belle Vue, Alnwick, the Rev. Thomas Leishman, Linton, George Hughes, jun., Middleton Hall. It was also arranged that the third volume of the transactions be com- pleted, to include all papers read at, and previous to the last meeting at Alnwick. The meetings for the year were fixed as follows :— Chatton, last Thursday in May (28th). Yetholm, last Thursday in June (25th). Coldburnspath, last Thursday in July (30th). Alnmouth, last Thursday in September (24th). After breakfast, and after making their arrangements, the parties separated ; some went to Outchester, but the most of them pursued their way to the Belford Crags, over the top of the Crags, through the Camp, scrambling down the sides of the woody brakes, and wandering about the rugged deans. An interesting addition was made to the local flora of Belford, in the beautiful Fern, the Aliosorus Orispus or Parsley Fern, which was found in great abundance, in a crag opposite to what is known by the name of the Chapel Crag. For its discovery the Club is indebted to Miss Clark, the daughter of our worthy host—whose attention I hope will be directed to the study of nature and botanical lore, among the crags, the woods, and the fields, of this delightful and B 18 Annwersary Address. interesting district.—(Dr. Johnson’s Natural History of the Eastern Borders, page 252.) The camp is on the highest part of the crags, and is oval shaped and extensive, with formed edges, the centre being clothed with sweet and fine grass. Belford crags are formed of the Basaltic Rocks, thrown into mis-shapen masses, and having been planted with forest trees, with winding footpaths formed through them, and filled also with natural wood, the hazel, birch, and broom, is thus rendered very attractive to the botanist, and lover of nature. From the camp the view is very extensive, the west is most limited, still you have Ross Castle, in Chillingham Park; to the East and North you look down upon Holy Island, the Waren and Ross Sands and bay, Beal, Goswick, Scremerston, and all the adjoining shores to Berwick, and much farther to the North. To the South East lie Bamburgh Castle and the Farne Islands, and immediately below you to the North West is Middleton Hall, embedded in woods and pleasure grounds. Look to the right—thou seest the castled steep Of regal Bamburgh beetle o’er the deep; Seest far beneath, the sparkling waters play, As wins the tide on Waren’s beauteous bay ; And on the left, the tower of Holy Isle Rise, like a rock of snow, in morning’s smile. —(Story’s Guthrum the Dane. ) The whole of the party, with some additions, assembled at dinner, and sat down to a splendid entertainment at Belford Hall: a breach of the rules certainly, which seemed to sit lightly on the consciences of the Members. After dinner the late President, Mr. Embleton, read his address, or record of the proceedings up to, and partly inclu- sive of, the last meeting at Alnwick. He also read a paper of Mr. J. Hardy’s on some coins found at Blackburn, in the parish of Coldburnspath. Two of them of Alexander the 3rd of Scotland, and several of Edward the Ist, 2nd, and 3rd. _ This paper is now printed at page 259 of our 3rd volume. Anniversary Address. 19 Each Coin not being particularized, it is not open to the Members to discover the numbers in each king’s re:gn— indeed, that would be difficult in any case, for the coins of these 3 Edwards are very like each other. It is laid down as a rule, by numismatics (2 Ruding 305) that they are known thus :— Edward the Ist, by his name on the Coin being Edw. Edward the 2nd, by his name being Hdwa. and Edwar. Edward the 3rd, by his name being Hdwardus. I cannot tell who G. Dominis de Line can be; but, as the Coin has the King’s Arms, the Cross and Pellets, I am in- ‘clined to think it may be Germyn Linch. He was master of the mint in Ireland, 39 Hen. 6th—also in the time of Edward 4th and 5th, and Richard 3rd. He was also in his latter days master of the mint at London. In this case the deposit, by the careful soul who placed them where they were found, after a lapse of some centuries, must have been later than what is suggested by Mr. Hardy. The President produced a drawing of a tablet of lead, found at the monastery of Holy Island, in 1856, on the outside of the east window. It was discovered during excavations. The original Tablet is now deposited in the Museum of the Anti- quarian Society of Newcastle :— | [ANNO: M: CC: XV: TRANS:|e | [LATI: SVNT: ISTI: Ill: M°I:]|s | _[ SILVESTER: ROBT: HELIA = |_| | AB: ORTO: MONOCHOZ: IN: HC: LOCV | ~ | TRANSLATION: In the year 1215, were translated these three monks Silvester, Robert, Helias, Jrom the orchard (or garden) of the Monks, into this place. This piece of lead is. 112 inches long, 3% inches broad, less than 1-8th, and rather more than 1-16th of an inch thick. Weight, lib. 440z. Why these Monks were buried in the garden, and then transferred to consecrated ground, I cannot imagine ; unless 20 Anniversary Address. for some offence, they were deprived of the benefit of being laid in holy ground for a certain period of time. BELFORD, the place of our meeting, was one of the ancient Manors of Northumberland. It, along with the Manors of Detchant, Easington, Easington Grange, Elwick, Ross, and Middleton, forms the Chapelry of Belford, in the parish of Bamburgh. I do not find Belford mentioned in any record previous to the time of King Henry the Ist. That monarch enfeoffed Robert de Muschampe of this and 24 other Manors, which constituted the Barony of Muschampe, or De Musco Campo, held of the King, in Capite, by the service of 4 Knight’s Fees, of ancient enfeoffment. Cecily, his daughter, was his heir, and she married Stephen de Bulmer, and in the reign of Henry the 2nd, this Barony was enjoyed by him, in her right, until his death, as appears by the return in the Black Book of the Exchequer.—(Hodgson’s Northumberland, part 3, vol. 3, page 303.) Then his widow continued in possession till her death, 26 Hen. 2nd. Thomas was their son, and he assumed his mother’s name of De Muschampe. He had some interest in this Barony during his mother’s life, for in the 18 Hen. 2nd, he is recorded in the Pipe Rolls as having paid to the Sheriff 100 shillings for scutage. Two years afterwards, 20 Hen. 2nd, he was attainted for the part he took in conjunction with William the Lion, King of Scotland, in favour of Prince Henry, in the rebellion against his father.—(Dugdale’s Baronage.) On his mother’s death, 26 Hen. 2nd, the Barony was seized into the hands of the Crown. The first mention of the town of Belford (Beleford) is by Jordan Fantosme, in his History of the Civil War, in 19 and 20 Hen. 2nd, when it was sacked by the Scots. At this period it would appear that Lowick was the capital of the Barony, as in the Pipe Roll of this and the following year, the Sheriff accounts for the rent under that head. In the reign of King John, Wooler was the capital Manor, Anniversary Address. 21 as appears by an inquisition in the Testa de Nevil.—(Hodg. part 3, vol 1, p. 231.) This Thomas de Muschampe married Maud, the daughter of William de Vescy, and the King must have been appeased in some way, for the Barony descended to, Robert, his son and heir ; from him it came to Robert, his son and heir, who died 1299 without issue male, and was buried in the Abbey of Melrose.—( Cronica de Mailros.) At that time, Warin de Beleford held of Robert de Mus- champe one carucate of land, by Knight’s Service, as the 12th . part of one Knight’s fee, whilst William, the Cook, held two Bovates in Socage by the appropriate payment of one pound of cinnamon.—-( Testa de Nevil. Hodg. 211.) The last Robert de Muschampe left three daughters, his coheiresses, viz :-— 1. Cecilia, who married the son of Odonel de Ford. They had one daughter, Isabella, who married Adam de Wig- ton, but she left no issue, and her two sisters were her coheiresses. 2. Margery, aged 24, in 1299 married the Earl of Strath- erne, and left two daughters, viz :— ~ 1. Murilda, aged 10, in 1254 died an infant. 2. Margery, aged 6, in 1254, and she married Nicholas de Graham ; he proved his title in 1293, before the King’s Justices Itinerant. 3. Isabella, who married William de Huntercombe ; they had issue :— 1. Walter de Huntercombe, who was in possession of his moiety in 1293 ; he also proved his title in that year. Thus, this Extensive Barony became divided into two parts. The Moiety of Belford, (inter alia) which belonged to Nich- olas de Graham, descended to John Graham, his son and heir, and from him to his only child, Alice Graham ; she married Nicholas, Baron de Meinil, and they had an only child, Elizabeth, Baroness de Meinil. She married John Lord Darcy, who died 1356, leaving children. She survived 22 Anniversary Address. her husband, and married Peter de Malolacu ; her eldest son was John Lord D’Arcy, ob. inf. et. 1362, S. P. Philip, his brother and heir, succeeded him, and sat in par- liament from 1377 to 1897—ob. 1398. John D’Arcy, his son and heir, sat in parliament from 1399 to 1411—ob. then Philip Lord D’Arcy, son and heir, ob. inf. et. 1418, 8. P. M. leaving two children, viz.— Elizabeth. who married Sir James Strangeways, and Margery who became the wife of Sir John Conyers, between whose descendants the Baronies of D’Arcy, and Meinil are now in abeyance. In 1460, I find the ‘‘ Castrum de Beleford’’ as belonging to Dni de D’ Arcy. I find in 20 Ed. 4th, 1461, that Thomas de Ilderton and Thomas Grey were seized of the Manor of Belford, but that could only have been as Trustees; for the D’Arcy and Lilburn family were certainly the real owners at the time, and for long subsequent thereto. Sir John Conyers, by Margery D’Arcy, his wife, had Sir John Conyers, K.G., his eldest son and heir; to him suc- ceeded William Conyers, his son and heir, 1506—d., 1524. Christopher Conyers, his son and heir, 1524—ob., 1538. John Conyers, his son and heir, 1538—ob., 1557, S.P.M. His daughters were his heirs, but in 1640 all their issue had failed excepting Elizabeth, the eldest daughter, who married Thomas Lord D’Arcy, and so in the Feodary’s Book it is recorded under date, 10 Elizabeth, 1568, that the heirs of Lord Conyers were seized of half of the Ville, of Belford and — Easington. . Conyers D’Arcy, the son of this Elizabeth, became Baron Conyers, Jure Matris, and one of the co-heirs of the Barony of D’Arcy and Meinil, from whom the Duke of Leeds is descended, and is the successor to those Ancient Honors. I do not find how this moiety of Belford afterwards passed away from the D’Arcy family, but it must have been soon after this period. The other moiety which formerly belonged to Walter de Huntercombe came to Anniwersary Address. 23 Jobn de Lilburn, 29 Ed. 3rd. William de Lilburn, 45 Ed. 3rd. John de Lilburn, 1 Hen. 4th. Henry de Lilburn, 12 Hen. 4th. John de Lilburn, 17 Hen. 6th. Elizabeth Lilburn, daughter and co-heir, 18 Hen. 8th, of John de Lilburn of Shawdon. She married Thomas Armorer, and I find in the 10th of Elizabeth, 1568, he was seized of half the Ville, of Belford and Easington. He probably after this acquired the D’Arcy moiety by . purchase. He had by his wife Elizabeth Lilburn, three sons, viz.— Francis the eldest. Thomas Armorer. Leonard Armorer, who had a son John. Francis the eldest son, was of Belford, and married Con- stance, daughter of Carr, of Hetton. Their issue were :— Roger. Henry married a daughter of Clavering, and had had two sons—Robert and George. John, who had a son John. Mark, who married a daughter of Grey, of Horton. Cuthbert, who had two sons—David and William. Roger Armorer, the eldest son, was of Belford, and married Constance, daughter of Thomas Bradford, Alderman of Ber- wick, and they had issue: Thomas. Clement, who married Barbara, daughter of Hume, and had two sons-—Alexander and Roger. Thomas Armorer, the eldest son, was living in 1615. He married Margaret, daughter of Robert Clavering, of Callaly, and had 6 children: Thomas, son and heir, aged 30, in 1615, married Catherine, daughter of Nicholas Forster, of White House, they had no children. Ephraim. Nicholas and William. Constance and Mary. 24 Anniversary Address. Ephraim Armorer, of Belford, the second son, married Ann, daughter and heir of George Middleham, of Alnmouth, a family of long standing there, and the chief proprietor of that place. They had two children,— Ephraim, son and heir, aged 1 year in 1615. Margaret (Harl. Mss. 1448, fo. 45.) Soon after this, Belford came into the possession of the ancient family of Forster; but I do not know how, probably by purchase, for in 1639, the manor of Belford belonged to John Forster, of Bamburgh Castle. In 1663 it was worth £300 a year, and was then the pro- perty of Lady Forster. It became in more recent times the estate of Abraham Dixon, Esq., to whom was granted a weekly market on Tuesdays, and two fairs yearly, (14 Geo. II. part 2. m. 18) ; from him it descended to his son, of the same name. His only sister married Mainwaring Ellerker, Esq., and Mr. Dixon devised it to Mr. Onslow, his sister’s grand-child. By this means it became part of the possessions of Lord Onslow, by whom it was sold to some gentleman in Scotland ; and ultimately it was purchased by the late William Clark, Esq., of Benton, near Newcastle-upon-Tyne. He very much improved the estate, the house and grounds, and left it to his eldest son, the late William Brown Clark, Esq., and his issue male. Here the latter lived from 1837 to 1840, as owner; but dying in 1840 without such issue, it passed under the entail to the Rev. John Dixon Clark, his Brother, the present resident owner thereof, our excellent host upon the present occasion, and one who takes much interest in the prosperity of our Club. I may add, that on the 23rd of May, 1722, David Graham, the eldest son of the Duke of Montrose, was created Earl and Baron Graham of Belford, no doubt from some old con- nection with this manor, in the persons of the abovenamed Nicholas de Graham, John, his son, and Alice de Graham, his daughter. The second meeting was held at Cennnor: on Thursday, the 28th of May, 1857. The members present were, R. C. Anniversary Address. 25 Embleton, P..J. Selby, the Rev. J. Dixon Clark, Robert Home, William Dickson, the Rev. Matthew Burrell, Vicar of Ohatton, Major Elliott, the Rev. William Darnell, William Boyd, Charles Rae, Captain Selby, R.N., and the Rev. John Bigge, Frederick Wilson, 9f Alnwick Castle, and John Charles Langlands, as visitors. After breakfasting at the Blue Bell, the party proceeded to Chillingham, first viewing in their way the improvements making in the parish Church, at Chatton, which is being altered from a barn-like building, into a structure in the early English style of Architecture. The Vicarage House and grounds reflect the greatest credit on the present Vicar, they are perfect in every comfort, and handsome in appearance. It is by his exertions chiefly that the Village is so much improved since our last meeting at this place. The Castle of Chillingham, from the beauty of its situation, embosomed in stately woods, and surrounded by a great ex- tent of sylvan ‘scenery, from the wild character of the park in which it stands, coupled with old associations, is certainly one of those grand baronial residences, of which the district ought to be proud. When the Club visited it, the fresh a light green foliage was in full leaf, and contrasted beautifully with the dark shades of the evergreen pines. Nothing could be more en- chanting than many of the scenes in the park, and perhaps none more pleasing than the long vista of lime trees on each side of the broad carriage drive, the delicate shining freshness of their leaves, and the light and feathery formation of their branches. The Park contains the celebrated breed of cattle, supposed to be the original British Byson. For details concerning them, I must refer to the paper of Mr. Luke Hindmarsh on this subject, read to the British Association, at Newcastle, and to the interesting letter addressed to him by the Karl of Tankerville, on the 8th of June, 1838. The highest part of the park is called “‘ Ros Castle,’ which is visible from a great distance. The origin of the name is BB 26 Anniversary Address. left in obscurity. It may be out of compliment to the great northern baronial family of ‘“‘ De Ros,’’ who were extensive proprietors of manors in this part of the country ; one of whom was the owner and builder of Wark Castle, on the Tweed. There are no erections upon it, and it is only called a Castle, or ‘‘ Ros Castle,” from its high commanding and almost inaccessible situation. This family take their name from the manor of Ros, in the adjoiming parish of Belford. Another curious object in natural history, is that of the live toad, which was discovered in the centre of a block of marble, in preparing it for a chimneypiece in Chillingham Castle.— (Wallis’s Northumberland.) It will defy the members of our Club to say how it got there, and for how many ages it was immured, without air or food, in the depth of the solid rock. The Hurle Stone is about a mile west of Chillingham, near the public highway, built on an eminence in a field. I do not know the meaning ofitsname. In the endowment of Chilling- ham Vicarage, it is referred to as the ‘‘ Stone Cross,” and may have been a road-side cross when these things were common in the land. The party assembled at 4 o’clock to dinner, after which, as president, I read a communication from Philip Hardwick, Esq., relative to the Chapel of Bewick, which I do not further notice, as it will be printed in our transactions. I also produced for examination, a series of drawings of the Chillingham Tomb, made forty years ago. F. Wilson, Esq., the resident architect, at Alnwick Castle, pronounced it to be of the perpendicular character, and of the date of about 1450, and of which he said there are many examples in different parts of England. Some portions of a long paper prepared by the Rev. James Raine, for the Mechanics’ Institute, at Durham, were read. It related to the life of a distinguished member of the Chillingham family, and therefore I made the following short note of it. Dr. Robert Grey was the eldest son, by a second wife, of Sir Ralph Grey, of Chillingham. His mother was daughter of Sir Thomas Mallet, of Enmore, in Somerset, and had been previously the wife of Sir Thomas Palmer. Anniversary Address. 27 His eldest brother (by his father’s first marriage) was William Grey, the first Lord Grey of Warke, and the direct lineal ancestor of the Earl of Tankerville. His uncle was Sir Edward Grey, of Howick, the youngest brother of his father, and the ancestor of the present Earl Grey, of Howick. Dr. Grey was born in 1610, educated first at Northallerton, and in 1617 he delivered an address from the school, to King James, on his progress into Scotland. In 1623 his father bequeathed to him the Manor of Langton- upon-Swale, and in the same year his mother appointed a tutor to him and his brother Edward, with a salary of £20 ‘a year, under the supervision of Dr. Neale, Bishop of Durham. He was sent to Christ’s College, Cambridge, and became a Fellow. He took orders as a Clergyman, but from the necessities of the times, he, as a soldier, joined the fortunes of his King. In 1644 he was among those besieged in Millum Castle. At that time’his brother, Lord Grey, was fighting on the side of the Parliamentarians. In 1652 he nearly lost his estate for his loyalty, but was released, upon promising to take what was called the engage- ment. : On the 15th of March, 1652, he was collated to the Rectory of Bishopwearmouth, and on the 10th of May following, to the 8th Stall in Durham Cathedral; but these preferments were in name only, the Church being then in the hands of the Usurpers. In 1660 he was by mandamus restored to his preferments, and was then in his 50th year, and he enjoyed them for nearly another half century. King James II. succeeded in 1684. He endeavoured to bring the realm to acknowledge the Pope, contending also for power to dispense with the laws at his Kingly pleasure. Dr. Grey and others were not so pliant, or so easily converted to such views. The Bishop of Durham (Crewe) pressed Dr. Grey and Dr. Morton to read King James’s declaration for the dis- pensing power in their parish churches, which they declining and arguing against it, his Lordship angrily told the Dr. that 28 Anniversary Address. his age made him doat, and that he had forgot his learning. The good Dr. briskly replied, he had forgot more learning than his Lordship ever had. Well (said the Bishop) I'll forgive and reverence you, but I cannot pardon that blockheaded . Morton, whom I raised from nothing. They, therefore, took their leave of the Bishop, who, with great civility, waited upon them to the gate of Durham Castle, and the porter opening the wicket or postern only, the Bishop said, “‘ sirrah, why don’t you open the great gates.” <‘‘ No, my Lord, (says the Rev. Dr. Grey) we will leave the broad way to your Lordship, the straight way will serve us.” In King James’s time, riding on horseback from his rectory at Bishopwearmouth to Durham, Mr. John Lamb, one of King James’s Justices of the Peace, a busy active man for that party, and raised from being a coachman in Mr. Chaloner’s family, overtook the Dr. and sneered at him, and told him he wondered he could ride on so fine a palfrey, when his Saviour was content to ride on’a colt, the foal ofan Ass. The Dr. replied, “tis true, Sir, but the King has made so many asses Justices of the Peace lately, that he has not left me one to ride upon.” I cannot trespass further by extracting more from Mr. Raine’s interesting paper, but it is evident Dr. Grey was a most upright, religious, and charitable man, and spent his revenues and the income of his estates, in relieving the distressed. I must refer to that paper, and to Mr. Raine’s History of North Durham, for further particulars. He was found dead at his devotions, at Bishopwearmouth, in 1704, aged 94. He was great uncle to Ford Lord Grey, Earl of Tanker- ville. h: Ralph Lord Grey was his administrator, and his freehold estates ultimately came to him. The gardens at Chillmgham were not in their fullest summer costume. The party admired the Blue Wistaria (Wistaria Chinensis) growing in a healthy state against the Western Wall of the flower garden at the Castle, its handsome light blue pendent flowers, in large clustered spikes, were coming out, which they do before the leaves. This plant is about 8 Anniversary Address. 29 feet high, but in length it is 120 feet, or 20 yards on each side of the stem—a native of China, it grows very fast, the shoots are cut back and spurred for flowering, and pruned like a pear tree against a wall.—(11. Cottage Gardener, 91.) The Church is quietly situated on the North side of the - great wood, at the East end of the village, near to the Vicarage, and to the entrance to the Castle. Itis an ancient Norman building. The earth should be taken from its side walls, and properly drained all round. I recollect it formerly, with festoons of ivy hanging from its roof inside the Church and Chancel, but now it is in a very good state of repair. ' There is one mural monument to a daughter of Robert Thorp, vicar of the parish, sister to the present Archdeacon Thorp. The Font is old and curious, having an inscription thus :— GOD BLESS THE CHVRCH. M R + W. ANNO, 1670. But the great charm of this little Church is the beautiful Tomb before mentioned, of which the following is a slight description. : It is of carved stone, oblong, and about 3 to 4 feet high, richly ornamented and coloured. At the sides and end are heraldic devices, shields, and figures of saints and other famous personages, in niches alternately ; on each side four of such figures, and five shields, and at the end two figures and three shields ; the other end abutting against the wall. On the tomb lie the effigies of a knight and his lady, both resting their heads on cushions, apparently dressed in the costume of the period ; he with a red tunic, and she with a curious head dress with loose flowing robes. On the sides of the tomb are two shields with the arms of Grey, “‘ Gules, a Lion Argent,” and at the end of the tomb, in the centre of the slab, or cover, are two angels with wings, holding a shield on which the arms of Grey are impaled, along with the arms of the lady. Her arms prove her to be a Fitzhugh, of Ravensworth, for in the first and second quarters are the arms of that family, viz., az. three chevrons braced 30 Anniversary Address. at the base or, a chief Of the last, and in the third and fourth quarters are the coat arms of Marmion, ‘ Vaire, a fess Gules.’ Along the edge of the slab are alternately, a scaling ladder and a cloke, but the chief crest of the Greys is the Ram’s head placed above the arms. At the back of the tomb against the wall appears an erection of later date, above which are the Grey arms (Lion) and crest (Ram’s head) with a place for an inscription quite vacant, except at the*bottom the family motto occurs ‘‘ de bon voulotr Servir le Roy.” It is clear this tomb was erected to the memory of Sir Ralph Grey, of Warke, who was born at Chillingham, knighted in 1425 by the Duke of Bedford, and who died in 1443. He married Elizabeth Fitzhugh, and she assumed the arms of Fitzhugh from her father, and those of Marmion from her mother, the latter being a co-heir of that ancient Barony. It is impossible to do justice to this beautiful monument by any -description, and it is to be hoped that the Right Honourable the Lord Ossulston, of Chillingham Castle, will cause careful drawings to be made, engraved, and coloured, he being the direct lineal descendant of Sir Ralph and Lady Grey, and the present possessor of Chillingham and Wark. This noble inheritance having descended to him, in regular succession, from the parties who now rest from their labours in the silence of this tomb, it is his sacred duty to protect those valuable specimens of monumental affection. In addition, let me refer the Club to the account given of it by the Rev. James Raine, of Durham, in his elaborate and valuable History of North Durham. ° I must not leave Chillmgham, without recording the fact that King Henry the 3rd was at that place in the 39th year of his reign. : The King was at Durham on the 22nd of August; New- castle, on the 24th and 28th of August, and Ist of September ; Alnwick, on the 3rd of September ; Chyvellingham, on the 5th of September ; Wark, on the 6th, 7th, 14th, 16th, and 21st of September ; and on the latter day (21st of September), he issued a writ from Wark, to the Mayor and Bailiffs of Anniversary Address. 31 York, to pay £100 for the expences of the Queen and her household, in living after us, at Warke; that is, for the expences of Her Majesty’s living there, after the King had left that place.—( Liberate Rolls.) The History of CHaTTON may be very shortly told. It was one of the Manors attached to the great Barony of Alnwick. Previous to the Norman Conquest, it was possessed by the powerful Northern Baronial family of Tyson. At the Conquest (A.D. 1066) it came by grant of King William to the De Vescys. In that family it continued 243 years, till the reign of Edward II. In A. D. 1809, it was purchased by the great Yorkshire Baron, Henry de Percy, in whose family it has continued ever simce, (saving occasional attainders), and it now belongs to Adgernon Percy, Duke of Northumberland, the Chief of that Noble and Ancient Race. I must also be permitted to note that Chatton may be on an equality with Chillingham, that King Edward I. was at the former place on the 16th of August, 1291; he was then on the Borders to decide upon the rights of the rival claimants to the Kingdom of Scotland : Ist of August the King was at Coldstream. 2nd of August. ........0....0 at. Berwick. kethvor ABest. ..c2s.cce.8 ditto. 16th of August ............... at Chatton, from whence he issued the following writ. Liberate Rolls Anno 19, Edward I. m. 2. Rex Baronibus suis de Scaccario Salutem. Allocate Waltero de Cambehou, Constabulario Castri Nostri de Bamburgh in Exitibus Ballive suc quadriginta et sex solidos et Octo denarios quos per preceptum nostrum solvit pro Robis ad opus Rest ab Maylgon et Canani ab Merdath Walensium in Castro predicto Existentium, et unius garcionis eis minis- trantes, videlicet, pro robis Resi et Canant quadraginta solidos et pro roba predicti garcionis see solidos et. octo denarios de anno regni nostri decimo nono Et sex libras et sex decem denarios quos similiter per preceptum nostrum posint in Expensis predictorum Resi et Canani et eorum garcionis in 32 Anniversary Address. Castro predicto existentium a die veneris proxima ante festum Sancti Valentini martiris anno regni nostri decimo nono usque diem Mercurii in festo assumptionis Beatce Marie anno Kidem, silicet, pro expensis utriusque predictorum Resi et Canani per diem tres denarios et dicti garcionis per diem duos denarios, nisi prius inde allocationem habuit in toto vel in parte. _ Teste Rege apud Chation, xuj die Augusti. There were five individuals proposed as Members, J. C. Langlands, Bewick, the Venerable the Archdeacon Thorp, F Wilson, Alnwick Castle, Thomas Scott, of Broomehouse, James Gray, of Kimmerston. The River was much flooded to-day, and proved how necessary it is to have two Bridges across the Till, the one leading south towards Alnwick, and the other north towards Berwick. The day was wet, and nothing new in Natural History was discovered. The third meeting of the Club was held at YrETHOLM, in Roxburgbshire, on the 25th June, 1857, when the following Members met together, Rev. John Baird, R. C. Embleton, (Secretary), Rev. Thomas Knight, Francis Douglas, M. D., John Boyd, Robert Home, William Dickson, (President), Major Elliott, George Tate, Rev. W. Darnell, William Dickson, the Younger, William Boyd, Charles Rea, Lieut. Patrick Johnston, Rev. Thomas Leishman, George Hughes, the Younger, James Grey, and as visitors, Andrew Wauchope, of Niddry, Scott Dudgeon, jun., of i cag Adam Boyd, Ksq., and W. Rashleigh. After breakfasting at the Inn, the party proceeded to pay their respects to the Rev. John Baird, the minister of the parish of Yetholm, and senior Member of our Club. We found he had expected us to breakfast with him, and from some mistake, we lost the substantial and elegant repast he intended for us. His Manse and grounds are remarkable for their neatness, and the thick foliage about them was very grateful on such a hot sultry day. His Kirk had been lately re-built with pitchstone porphyry, and is capable of holding six or seven hundred people. Anniversary Address. 33 Most of the party proceeded northward, to Hoseley and Yetholm Lochs, the former about two miles off, and the latter somewhat nearer. The sun was bright and some lagged behind ; those who completed the circuit were much indebted to the hospitalities of Cherry Trees, the pleasant seat of J. Boyd, Esq., one of our Members. The gardens, greenhouses, and shrubberies, called forth unqualified admiration. Mr. Baird and Mr. Tate went in another direction, to investigate a portion of the Geology of the district. The river Beaumont meanders through the vale and divides Town Yetholm from Kirk Yetholm, the latter being on its southern bank. ~ Robert Storey the poet, was born in the neighbouring parish of Kirknewton, and as a shepherd boy, no doubt he often wandered o’er these hills, wrapped in his plaid, with his faithful dog beside him. Thus, he writes of the banks of the Beaumont :— “On these hill tops, at break of day, My feet have brushed the pearly dew ; And I have marked the dawn star’s ray, Lost in the orient’s kindling blue ; Then turned to see each neighbouring height In morning’s rosy splendour dyed ; While mists ascending, calm and white, Disclosed the banks of Beaumont side.”’ The hills to the south, consisting of the Cheviot range, are very beautiful, cultivated as far as the plough can reach, and the rest tapering upwards, clothed in rich green. They appear piled on each other, and dotted over with sheep, peculiar to the district, called the Cheviot breed. The country is interspersed with thriving young woods, which give it a warm appearance ; while from the high grounds the views in every direction are pleasingly diversified. For a correct description of a considerable portion of this range, though rather more towards the east, I again borrow from the Poet of the Borders ; I make the extract from a very splendid edition of his poems, just published under the auspices of the Duke of Northumberland :—- C 54 Anniversary Address. ‘These mountains wild,” began the Maiden, “ claim, Each for itself, a separate local name. We stand on Lanton Hill. Not far behind, The verdant Howsden woos the summer wind. That mountain, with its three wild peaks, before, Is styled by dwellers near it, Newton Torr. The oak-clad ridges, there, of Akeld, swell, And here the bolder slopes of Pevering Bell. While towering, yonder, with his patch of snow, And proudly overlooking all below, Is CuHEvioT’s mighty self, his throne who fills— Th’ admitted Monarch of Northumbrian hills. —Two streams you see, one winding still and clear, The other hastening on its bright career, As glad yon deep and sunless glen to miss— The Beaumont that we call, the College this. Beneath yon clump of trees they meet, and then Their mingled waters take the name of GLEN. An humble stream! which yet, to pious fame, Is not without its pure and gentle claim. For men relate, that when the Gospel-beam Began at first across the land to stream, - A hundred Saxon converts, in one day, Washed in that stream their crimson sins away ; While angel bands, revealed to mortal sight, From cloud and mountain watched the sacred rite ?” —(Guthrum the Dane.) For particulars of this locality I refer to a very accurate account of it, in Mr. Alexander Jeffrey’s History of Rox- burghshire. He defines the name from Yet a gate, and Ham a dwelling. Kirk Yetholm was in olden times celebrated for its race of Gipsies, whom the Kings of Scotland respected at one time, and at others punished with the greatest severity. At one time recognizing by writ the leader as ‘‘ our lovile Johanne Faa, Lord and Earl of Little Egypt,” and at another, even to be a Gipsy, was a crime punished with death, and many were hanged “ according to the Statute.” The race now may be said to be nearly extinct, and although there is one who is acknowledged to be the King of the Gipsies, still they are not in any way different from the muggers of various villages who shut up their houses in summer, and live in tents or camps, and return to their houses on the approach of winter. Anniversary Address. 30 ‘¢The Gipsies, wild and wandering race, Are masters of the sylvan chase ; Beneath the boughs their tents they raise, Upon the turf their faggots blaze ! In course profusion they prepare The feast obtain’d,—how, when, and where ? While swarthy forms, with clamour loud, Around the smoky cauldron crowd.” —/(Bayley’s Gipsy’s Haunt. ) The early records are few in number: A.D., 1296, Maester Walram, the Parson of Yetholm, swore fealty to King Edward the Ist, at Berwick. A.D., 1304, Edward arrived at this place, with Earls and Barons. A.D., 1379, Robert the 2nd granted to Fergus McDougal, the Manor of Yetholm, which Margaret Fraser, his mother, had resigned to him. Robert the 3rd granted to Arch. McDougal, the Barony of Yetholm, the descendents of whom (softened to McDowal) long enjoyed this property. Robert, Duke of Albany, granted to John de Hawden, the lands of Yetholm, which had been resigned by William Hawden, his father. About a.p., 1400, William de Hawden, the Lord of the Manor, granted to the Monks of Kelso, the right of advowson to the Church of Kirk Yetholm. Some other scattered notices are to be found in Mr. Jeffrey’s book. Andrew Wauchope, Esq., is the Mareshall and Superior of the Lands of Town Yetholm, and he favoured the Club with his company at dinner. These hereditary offices on the south side at Kirk Yetholm, appertain to the Marquess of . Tweeddale. The party assembled at dinner, at the Inn at Town Yetholm. The five gentlemen proposed at the last meeting were elected, and the following were proposed as Members to be elected at the next meeting, viz: John Richardson, of Pencaitland Cottage, Tranent, Dudley Coutts Marjoribanks, M.P., Scott Dudgeon, of Spylaw, and the Rev. Delaval Knight, of Ford. 36 Anniversary Address. It was also announced by Mr. Home that Mr. Witham, of Lartington, an old Member, wished to resign, owing to his removal from the district. This was a disappointment, but as a set off, we had the pleasure of welcoming the return of Dr. Francis Douglas, one of our oldest Members, after a long absence in India. After dinner the Secretary produced a beautiful specimen of a Gold Noble of Edward the III., which was found at Hazle- ridge, in the parish of Chatton ; it was minutely examined by each Member ; it is about an inch and a half broad, and very thin, and of a bright yellow colour, and soft. OBVERSE. Edward Dei. G. Rex. Ang. z. Fra. Dns Hyb. z. Aqt. The King, armed and crowned, standing in a ship, which has a streamer at the mast head, with St. George’s Cross ; a naked sword in his right hand, and in his left a shield bearing the Arms of France (semé-de-lys) quartered with those of England. On the upper part of the side of the ship are lions are gardant, towards the left and fleur-de-lis alternately ; under these, two tiers of ports, the lower of which has four projecting spikes, placed alternately with the ports. REVERSE. IHE: AVTEM: TRANSCIENS: P: MEDIVM ILLORVM IBAT. In a double tressure of eight arches with trefoils in the outward angles, a cross fleury voided. Over each limb of the cross a fleur-de-lis. In the quarters the Lion of England under a crown. In the centre a rose of four leaves, pointed with as many trefoils salterwise, includ- ing the letter E. Weight 1192 grains. These Coins were so beautiful that various fabulous accounts were reported as to the material of which they were made. On the one side was the King’s Image, in a ship to notify he was lord of the seas, and on the other ‘‘ But Jesus passing through the midst of them, went his way,” denoting that as he passed invisible, so was the gold made by an invisible and secret art. Anniversary Address. 37 Again, the words were considered a charm against thieves. But see a full account of these Coins in Ruding’s Annals. Gold Coins were first issued in 1343.— (Pat. 18 Ed. III. pt. 1, m. 27.) Mr. George Tate communicated to the Members shortly, an outline of a Geological tour, he had made in this district, which it is hoped will be the subject of a paper to be read at a future meeting, and printed in our transactions. He also described a tour he had lately made along the line of the Roman Wall, from the Cumberland Border to Wallsend, with peculiar reference to the Geology of the country through which the Wall passed. In many places it is still strongly marked, in one part he counted thirteen courses of masonry: The whole plan from end to end consists of an outer deep ditch, on the north side of the wall, then the wall itself, and then two inner walls, with towers at intervals. Even where the wall passes through the whinstone, or up and down the steepest hills, still this plan is never varied, the hard rock is , quarried out for the ditch, and the great stones so taken out are lying to this day at the base of the hills. So very labo- rious a work shows the perseverance and determination of the Roman soldiers, to erect such a formidable out-work as would protect their conquests against those northern barbarians, the Picts and Scots of that early age. The Secretary remarks, ‘‘ In the walk taken by the Club, the only plant new to the locality was the Convallaria multi- flora, a plant frequently observed near cultivated grounds, and hence generally set down as a wanderer. The plant, however, was quite as wild as in any of the localities where I have seen it growing. Habenaria clorantha, Gymnadenia conopsea, Arenaria rubra, and several other well known species were found in profusion. I had the day previous found in Learmouth Bog, Lastrea cristata, a Fern new to our district. Very few insects were observed Elaphrus cupreus was taken by the side of Hoseley Loch and two specimens of Necrophorus ruspator were taken from the body of a mole.” The last meeting, of which I have to record the transactions, was held at Cockburnspath, in Berwickshire, on the 30th of 38 Anniversary Address. July, and as I was engaged in Court, at the Northumberland Assizes, I could not be present, and the Secretary being abroad, I am indebted to Mr. George Tate, of Alnwick, for the following note of what was transacted there. There were present, P. J. Selby, Francis Douglas, M.D., David Macbeath, Robert Home, Major Elliott, Patrick Clay, George Tate, Robert Hood, M.D., William Stevenson, William Boyd, Charles Stewart, M.D., and Charles Watson. Mr. Tate’s record is as follows :-— ** Although Cockburnspath has been repeatedly visited by the Club, there was, notwithstanding, a goodly assemblage of Members at this Meeting, attracted partly, doubtless, by the prospect of pleasant intercourse, but, also by the beauty and picturesqueness of the Deans, and the interesting and instruc- tive geological sections along the coast. After Breakfast the Members separated into two parties, one proceeded to explore Dunglass and Pease Deans. The other party consisting of Mr. Hume, Major Elliott, Mr. Stevenson, Mr. Clay, and Mr. Tate, set off in a long cart, the best conveyance which could be had, to visit Fast Castle and Siccar point, passing by the ‘‘Old Tower’ and lingering for awhile on the high bridge across the Pease Dean, admiring the beauty of the deep ravine below, they were jolted onward over a rugged road, and for some distance across a dreary upland moor to Dunlaw,. where they left their conveyance, and proceeded on foot to the lonely and sea-beaten ruin of Fast Castle; which tenant- less and roofless stands on a rugged and elevated mass of Greywacke rock, protruding into the sea, from the loftier precipitous cliffs which form the bold and dangerous coast line. Formerly access to it was obtained by a draw-bridge ; now, however, the chasm is partly filled up and the Castle is reached by a narrow causeway. It possesses a few historical associations, but such is the marvellous charm, which the genius of Scott has thrown around it, that it is viewed with most interest, as the Wolf’s Crag of the Bride of Lammer- muir. It is rudely but strongly built of Greywacke from the adjoining cliff, with here and there red sand-stone blocks, which had been brought from near Siccar point. The Anniversary Address. 39 Building is chiefly quadrangular, but there are remains of a round tower on the north-west corner, and another round tower is seen on the south-east corner, resting on corbels, and projecting over the square ground storey. A small recess in one of the rooms has a simple O. G. arch of an early style, which, with the character of the towers, would refer the erec- tion of the Castle to the fourteenth century. ‘*More remarkable than the Castle, are the rocks which tower above it. The coast here is desolate enough—wild crags, rugged and bare, rise precipitously to heights varying from 100 to 300 feet ; here and there are grotesque, projecting, and isolated masses and caverns hollowed out by the sea, but an especial interest is given to the scene by the marvellous contortions of the strata which form the lofty cliffs. ‘“* These strata are Greywacke, the upper Cambrian formation of Sedgwick, and lower Silurian of Murchison. They form, excepting where igneous rocks are intruded, the coast from Siccar point to Burnmouth, and run across the country in a westerly direction, having an average width of about ten miles. Doubtless these strata are bent and contorted over the whole district, but the undulations are best observed along the coast, where an extensive cross section is exposed. These contor- tions consist of great curvatures which are alternately concave and convex upwards, those of the largest size reaching from the top to the bottom of the cliff. Sir James Hall observed sixteen distinct bendings in the course of about six miles. Immediately opposite to Fast Castle, one of these great arches occurs, extending to the top of the cliff where the upper portion of the arch is broken through; to the south of this folding, the strata are standing perpendicular, or crushed and bent over. “‘In presence of impressive phenomena, well calculated to excite curiosity, and which have supplied materials for the speculations of Hutton, Playfair and Hall, and of Sedgwick, Murchison and Lyell, we could not help inquiring into the cause, which had first raised mud, deposited originally as horizontal beds at the bottom of the sea, into a highly inclined and perpendicular position, and then squeezed them into a 40 Anniwersary Address. series of great contortions and arches. Obviously the strata must have been pressed laterally ; and Sir James-Hall shewed how similar foldings would be given to layers of clay placed under a weight, when pressed at opposite ends. Still the question remains, what was the power which exercised this pressure? Some Geologists, regarding the effects as too great to have been produced by the action of agencies now working, refer them to a supposed contraction of the earth at a remote era; but this is a mere hypothesis, and not a generalisation—a hypothesis to which indeed there is no necessity to resort here, for when all the various igneous rocks intruded amongst the Greywacke beds are fairly reckoned up, they become the evidences of power equal to the elevation and contortion of the Berwick strata. There is the great mass of the Porphyry of the Cheviot, which has been thrown up since the deposition of the Greywacke beds, and which is seen in connection with them in Northumberland and Roxburghshire ; there are the Syenites and Granites of Cockburnslaw, Sten- shiel Hill, and Fassney, the Porphyries of Lamberton, St. Abb’s Head, Hallidown, Coldingham Law, and Bemerside ; and there are many intruded dikes over the formation, several of which are seen on the banks of Blackadder. When we add to this, that the igneous rocks visible on the surface are in many cases but the narrow terminal points of broader masses beneath, we have indications of volcanic power, capable both of lifting up the Greywake strata, and of contorting them by the intrusion of masses which, exerting both an upward and lateral pressure, would squeeze yielding beds into a series of great Arches. . ‘‘ After dinner the Members proposed at the meeting were elected. Mr. William Sharswood, of Philadelphia, was pro- posed by Mr. Tate, and seconded by Mr. Home. Dr. Hood read a paper describing a Cave in the Sea Cliff, between Eyemouth and Burnmouth ; and Mr Tate some notices of the Geology and Archeology of the neighbourhood of Yetholm, and the northern part of the Cheviots. ‘* Another paper was read, contributed by the Rev. William Procter, A.M., on the Doddington Wells. The paper states Anniversary Address. 41 that Doddington is peculiarly favoured with several excellent springs of water, of which the Dod Well and Cuddy’s Well are the most important. Both wells issue out of the sand- stone of Dod Law, the former yielding 70 gallons, and the latter 24 gallons per minute of soft water, at a temperature of 46 degrees of Fah.; the supply and temperature are the same in winter as in summer. Previously to ‘the year 1791 the Dod Well was a very beautiful natural fountain, at the base of a prominent freestone rock ;”’ “‘and from a crevice of the rock above the basin, grew a ‘ yea pointed’ fern (doubtless the Osmunda regalis) which was an object of great interest to the villagers, differing, as it did, from the common fern.”’ There was a song current in the village in those days, the burden of which was “The bonny Dod Well and the Yea pointed fern.”’ But, adds the writer, ‘“‘I have been unable as yet to recover any more of the song than that single line; so completely was the fountain of poetry dried up in the village by the ruthless destruction of that which inspired it; for who could sing of the ‘Bonny Dod Well’ amidst the desecration” to which it was subjected: for in the year 1791 a “heartless Carmichael” quarried away the rock of which the natural fountain was formed, regardless alike of the presiding genius of the springs, and of the feelings of the villagers. Much to the credit of the present Incumbent, a new fountain, through his exertions, was erected in 1846, the cistern being covered over ‘‘ with solid masonry, in the form of a cross of Calvary ; thus substituting an architectural ornament of a Christian character, for the royal fern which had presided over the original fountain for centuries before its demolition.”’ “Dr. Hood shéwed a good specimen of the plate of Pierichthys major, from Harelaw quarry, near Chirnside, out of the old red sandstone.” I have now concluded my notes respecting the meetings held since I have been President, and I have only a few more remarks to make. . I should like to see recorded in our proceedings the sizes and localities of remarkable trees, extraordinary springs of Cc 42 Anniversary Address. water, appearances of mines and minerals, qualities of stoné, and any other interesting matters connected with the district. The Aquarium is another device of modern times, well worthy the attention of those members who make natural history their study and delight. By it the habits of marine animals may be more correctly ascertained, and the mode in which nature propagates the species of those wonders of the ocean, more clearly made out. You may there trace the Whelk from the merest speck on the side of the glass, until it gradually developes itself as we see it on the sea shore. The same remark applies equally to other marine animals. The Aquarium also enables the accurate observer of nature to watch, day by day, the growth of the Algz and various kinds of marine plants, to ascertain their uses for food and otherwise, as well as their fructification, and so to obtain much additional information to that which is already recorded in the valuable publications of Dr. Johnston, either among the proceedings of your Club, or spread over his other in- _ dependent works. : Thus, a new source of pleasure and instruction is opened to us, another page of the book of nature is turned over for perusal and study, and the lamentations of some of our body, that the Natural History of the district is nearly exhausted, may, I hope, for ever cease to be heard among us. The young Naturalist cannot do better than take White’s History of Selbourne as his model, and note from time to time, the events of the year, such as the arrival and departure of birds, and other interesting facts as will occur to an en- quiring mind. In a hole under the roof of one of my old buildings, at Alnmouth, a party of Starlings build their nests every year. They take flight to some foreign country, and return again in the spring, and they never fail to come direct to the very spot, and again rear their young. How do they know the exact spot to come to, from such distant countries ? The Natural History of the finny tribe is by no means exhausted. A more full account of the salmon, having refer- ence to recent experiments, is very desirable; the causes of their paucity, and the cure for that evil. Anniversary Address. 43 With respect to the salmon fry they are brought down the river Tweed in such myriads in the spring of the year, that Berwick Bay is full of them. Ducks, Gulls, and all the aquatic birds are found in vast numbers, feeding upon them, and they are the prey of all the finny tribe. It is matter of surprise to me when so many escape the poacher in the breed- ing season, that so few return to their own river. Mr. William Paulin, the experienced manager of the Berwick Company’s Fisheries, in the Tweed, and who has all his life paid great attention to the habits of the salmon, writes to me as follows :—- “In answer to your enquiry about the salmon fry, I may inform you that their migrating period is from about the middle of April to the end of May, during which they come down the river in immense shoals, but after they got into the sea their history is not so well ascertained. Some contend that in the sea they grew very rapidly, and in a few weeks return to the river as grilses, of five or six pounds weight. I don’t believe this, for from experiments that have been made, I am satisfied that they do not return as grilses of the above weight until at least fifteen months after; but where they go in the meantime there is no satisfactory evidence to shew, ex- cept that they must be somewhere in the deep sea, for they are never found in the river again, or on the sea shore, until they appear as grilses. One thing also is certain that a con- siderable portion of the smolts, on their first entrance into the sea, must become the prey of codfish and other sea-fishes, as well as of birds, which are all found in great numbers about the river mouth at that period of the year, just waiting to devour them.”’ In a second letter he says, ‘‘ The most destructive enemies of the fry when it leaves the river, are the ‘ Podlers’ or ‘Saiths,’ and the ‘Sea Gulls or ‘ Divers,’ but the former are by far the most numerous, and are exceedingly voracious. Last week a few of our fishermen, with a common salmon net, caught up- wards of 300 of these fish in one haul; and on two or three other occasions they have caught large numbers of them, amounting in the whole, I believe, to about 2000. Such of them as were cut up were found to have from six to fifteen 44 Anniversary Address. smolts in their stomachs, and when you consider that all these ‘Podlers’ or ‘ Saiths’ were taken within a very limited space, and in a very short time, you may imagine how vast must be the numbers, and what an immense destruction of the fry must be going on all along the shore, and in the open sea. The ‘ Podlers’ and the ‘Sea Gulls’ are certainly the greatest destroyers of the fry that come most under observation, but no doubt Cod fish, as well as other fishes, will also have a fair share of them. ‘< There are, however, one or two points as regards the salmon itself, which I should like to see cleared up. We all believe the salmon to be grilse of the previous year, after it has spawned and become clean again. At the close of the fishing season in October, salmon will average about 16 tbs. weight, and grilses from 7 to 8 ibs. All of them that are caught are more or less fu!l of spawn, and approaching to a mature state, although some are much more advanced than others. We know that both salmon and grilses at that time proceed to the higher parts of the river for the purpose of depositing their spawn and in the months of February, March, April and May following, we find salmon that have spawned, as well as grilses, descending the river again towards the sea, for the purpose, as we presume, of being renovated in their condition. During the same time we occasionally find salmon that have spawned, and Bagot salmon likewise (that is female salmon which are just ready to spawn) coming into the river from the sea. While all this is going forward there is, from the very com- mencement of the season in February (and when the season commenced so early as the 10th of January it was just the same) a regular supply of clean salmon coming daily into the river from the sea, averaging about a pound more in weight than the grilses were at the close of the previous season, but very few old salmon of 16 tbs. weight, in a clean state, are ever caught among them. It seems almost certain that these fish cannot have had time to be in the river to spawn as grilses, and to have returned again to the sea and become salmon. The question then arises, where do they come from? If they have not spawned during the winter, then at the close of the Anniversary Address. 45 previous season they must have been in a different condition from all the other salmon and grilses that were caught at that time. If they have spawned during the winter, then, since it does not appear to have taken place in the river, it must have been in the sea, but this, I believe, is generally denied to be the case by those who profess to have studied the subject, and it is said that should they even do so, the spawn will not come to life. It may be noticed also, that at the commencement of every fishing season, a great portion of the salmon that are to be caught during that season must, necessarily, be in the sea, for after the net and rod fishing begins, very few of the salmon that are in the river are allowed to escape. It would, therefore, appear that there must be an immense shoal of salmon congregated somewhere in the deep sea, from which detached portions seem gradually to approach towards the shore as the season advances. It is another fact that when- ever there is a ‘ Spade,’ salmon are drawn towards the river, and that those which have no roe in them, and, therefore, cannot be supposed to be coming into the river for the purpose of depositing their spawn, are just as ready to do so in the spring and swmmer months, as those which are full of roe, and are ascending the river for spawning purposes at the close of the year. ‘‘T confess that I find all these facts difficult to be reconciled with the general belief that salmon do and can only spawn in rivers, or if they should spawn in the sea, that the ova must be lost. It may be so, and I am not prepared to offer any other theory upon the subject, but to me it appears doubtful, and I should be very glad to see a reasonable and satisfactory explanation of the circumstances I have referred to.”’ Again he writes, ‘‘ With regard to the salmon fry, the ova are generally deposited in the spawning beds in the months of November and December, sometimes later, and come to life about April following. They continue in the river for twelve months longer, growing gradually into what are called ‘ Parr,’ and are found of various sizes, from two to four inches in length. In April and May of the second year they assume the smolt appearance and make their way towards the sea, 46 Anniversary Address. by which time they have grown to five or six inches in length and perhaps two or three ounces in weight. After they leave the river great numbers must become the prey of sea-fish and birds as I have already mentioned, but still large numbers must escape, for in two instances that have come under my own observation, smolts that have been marked one year with silver wires being fixed in them, have been caught fifteen months after as grilses, one weighing 42 Ibs. and another 62 ibs. ‘ -ccseenmn 18 85. Slaty sandstones ... ..........27 0 86. Coal (main coal)............ -. 40 Sabine clawed cer erccencaicnee mpage) 0) SOs, ormeshalew fn ..cc..cuace suerte 42 0 89. Limestone ...............-..006 40 Total...1493 10 Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell. 99 There are in this section fourteen different limestones, varying in thickness from 2 feet to 30 feet, and having an ageregate thickness of 171 feet. Most of them are of a bluish colour and yield good lime, and many fossils characteristic of the Mountain Limestone Formation occur, especially in the thicker sills and in the calcareous shales connected with them. The main limestone, number £8, is the most fossili- ferous, and the following list, though far from being complete, will shew how rich it is in organic remains. FISH. Productus punctatus (Mart. ) A few remains of fish appear, viz., a| Productus scrabiculus (Mart. ) portion of Productus spinulosus (Sow. ) Megalichthys Hibbberti (Ag.) consist- | Productns fimbriatus (Sow. ) ing of scales of a quadrate form, one | Productus Jatissimus (Sow. ) inch across—this was a sauroid fish | Productus Flemingii (Sow. ) allied to the Lepidosteus or Bony | Productus semireticulatus (Mart. ) Pike. ? Chonetes sordida (Sow.) Cladodus mirabilis ( Ag.) Chonetes Dalmaniana (Kon.) Cochliodus magnus ( Ag.) Chonetes gibberula (McCoy) These are teeth of Ganoid fish of | Spirifer trigonalis (Mart. ) the order Pycnodonti, whose forms | Spirifer glaber (Mart. ) were short and compressed, the fins | Spirifer lineatus (Mart. ) small, and the teeth adapted to crush | Spirifer octoplicatus (Sow. ) marine animals with hard coverings, | Edmondia sulcata ( Phil.) Sanguinolites iridinoides (McCoy) CRUSTACEUS. Sanguinolites transversa ( Port.) Griffithides Farnensis (Tate). Sanguinolites variabilis (McCoy) Aviculo-pecten docens (McCoy) MOLLUSKS. Orthoceras suleatum (Flem.) BRYOZOA. Orthoceras Goldfussianum ( Kon.) Fenestella plebeia (McCoy) Naticopsis plicistriz (Phil. ) Fenestella crassa (McCoy) Loxonema rugifera (Phil. ) Fenestella undulata (Phil. ) Euomphalus carbonarius (Sow) Glauconome pluma ( Phil.) Pleurotomaria decipiens (McCoy) Sulcoretepora parallela ( Phil.) Pleurotomaria atomaria (Phil. ) Platyschisma helicoides (Sow) CORALS. Bellerophon Urii (Flem.) Aulophyllum fungites (Flem. ) Orthis resupinata (Mart. ) Lithodendron irregulare ( Phil.) Orthis Michelini ( Kon.) Stenopora tumida ( Phil.) Strophomena ecrenistria ( Phil.) Favosites parasitica (Phil. ) Productus Martini (Sow. ) Favosites serialis ( Port.) The calcareous shale is remarkably full of fossils; it is indeed almost entirely formed of Productus Flemingii and Spirifer trigonalis ; and being exposed to the weathering influence of the tide, which washes away the softer matrix, the fossils stand out in bold relief, and fine specimens of the Productus can be obtained, beautifully shewing the curious internal structure of the shell. The limestone which forms the bold headland of Ebbs Nook is, however, the most interesting of the group, from its peculiar 100 Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadneli. organisms, its mineral composition and picturesque appear- ance. It is 30 feet in thickness, and being very hard, resists more effectively, than the other rocks, the destructive action of the sea. Resting, however, on a soft shale which is easily broken up and washed away by the tides, this superincumbent limestone is deprived of support, and time after time, large masses tumble down from the cliff into the sea. It now forms a narrow point running into the sea about one quarter of a mile; but the tides and high seas are still working away the lower and softer beds, which connect this pro- montory with the land, and in the course of a few centuries it will become an island on the flow of every tide. This limestone is of a buff colour and generally of a crystalline structure. It is a magnesian limestone, being composed of carbonate of magnesia and carbonate of lime. Besides con- taining Productus giganteus and other commoner mountain limestone fossils, there abound in it large masses of the corals Lithostrotion basaltyforme and Chetetes septosus ; and occasionally we find Syringopora ramulosu, which isa rare coral in the Northumberland beds. These distinctive organisms are excellent guides in tracing the range of this sill; northward I have found it at Holy Island, and sonth- ward I have traced it to Spittleford, near to Embleton, and thence to Dunstan, Craster, and Shilbottle; and thence in a south-west direction to Whittle, Newton-on-the-Moor, Fram- lington, and across the Coquet to Ward’s Hill and Rothley. It should be noticed, that the magnesian character of this limestone is a local phenomenon, and seems in some way to arise from its neighbourhood to basalt. In several parts of its range, as at Shilbottle and Framlington, it is a compara- tively pure carbonate of lime. There are eighteen different coal seams in the section ; most of them are thin and of an inferior quality, none, excepting two, exceeding 2 feet in thickness, and their aggregate thickness is only 24 feet 4 inches. That which is called the Beadnell coal (number 35 of the section) has been worked both for domestic use and for burning lime. It is of variable thickness, seldom less than 2 feet 6 inches, and generally about 3 feet; but on Mrs. Taylor’s estate, it has been found as much as 6 feet thick, and of a better quality than in other localities. It lies there, however, below the sea level ; and as the sea sometime ago broke into a neighbouring colliery, due precautions would be necessary, to prevent a similar irrup- tion, In the event of this more valuable portion of the coal seam being worked for the use of the district. Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell. 101 The sandstones and shales associated with the coal seams contain relics of the vegetation of the Carboniferous Era; a few Sigillarie and many Stigmaria ficoides appear in these beds. One interesting specimen of a Sigillaria, which was laid bare, when quarrying the sandstone in 1853, deserves a more particular notice. Though but a fragment, it was 6 feet in height, and 2 feet 2 inches in diameter at the lower end, and 1 foot 9 inches at the higher ; it stood perpendicular to the strata which dip south-east 15° and its inclination to the horizon was 75°. The lower extremity terminated ab- ruptly on the surface of slaty sandstone beds, but the outcrop of the rock in which it was embedded prevented our knowing, how far upward it extended. Over the surface was a thin carbonaceous coating, being the bark converted into coal ; . but the interior was replaced with sandstone and retained no structure. It had, however, the rude flutings which dis- tinguish the casts of Sigillarie ; and it appeared to belong to the species Sigillaria organa. The sandstone in which it stands consists of several beds; and the lines of stratifi- cation distinctly pass through the fossil, and curve more or less downward on all sides towards it. No roots could be observed attached to this tree; yet from its position at right angles to the strata, and the peculiarity of the strati- fication, I think it stands on the spot where it originally grew. Indeed, there seems to me little doubt that most of the coal seams, even in north Northumberland, have been formed of plants and trees which grew, during the Carboniferous Era, in the district now occupied by the coal beds. The under clay usually beneath each coal seam was the surface soil, on which the plants and trees grew; and it is now found more or less traversed by the Stigmaria ficoides, which was the root of the Sigillaria, the trunks of which have largely contributed to the formation of the coal. As this fossil tree is frequently to be seen in Northumberland, it may add to the interest of these notes to give the following description from my Fossil Flora of the Eastern Borders. ‘‘ The structure of the Sigil- lari differs widely from that of any living plant; it is, how- ever, essentially acrogenous; and the nearest analogue to these majestic trees of other times is the Lycopod or lowly creeping club moss; yet the radial arrangement of the woody tissue and the presence of medullary rays and a sheath, bring them into a distant relationship to exogenous vegetation. Brongniart considers them allied both to the Lycopod and to the Cycas; they form, therefore, a connecting link between orders, which stand far apart in existing nature. Composed 102 Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell. chiefly of cellular tissue, Sigillarize were extremely succulent ; they grew in swamps and marshes, their long and numerous Stigmaria roots and rootlets forming an entangled mass and permeating the mud in all directions, in a manner similar to that of the living water lily in shallow lakes and pools. The roots sometimes exhibited a crucial arrangement, uniting into four main portions, separated from each other by deep channels and forming a dome from the summit of which, the furrowed and scarred stems, clothed in the upper parts with a long, narrow and pendent foliage, rose to the height of nearly 100 feet.’’* Other conditions of the Carboniferous Era are made known by several of the sandstones, which present ripple-marks, oblique lamination, and fossil worms and worm tracks, in- dicating ancient beaches and the action of waves and currents. When deposits are made in water comparatively tranquil, the planes of the several beds are pretty nearly parallel to each other ; but some sandstones exhibiting in mass this ordinary stratification have also included in them, thin layers or stratula, which are inclined sometimes highly to the plane of the principal bed; this is oblique lamination, or as it is frequently called, false-bedding, of which there are many examples in the Beadnell sandstones. Both ripple-marks and false bedding result from the action of waves and currents—the former being produced by the gentle motion of waves, and the latter by stronger currents. After the reces- sion of the tide furrows and ridges may be seen on sandy and muddy coasts; and these are similar in form and arrangement to those left impressed by ancient waves on the Beadnell sandstones ; where they are there beautifully distinct ; some of them are large, measuring 6 inches from one ridge to the other ; and they usually trend from east by south to west by north. As the line in which a current moves is at right angles to the direction of such marks, the ancient currents which rolled over the Beadnell coast must have come either from the north or the south. Mr. H. C. Sorby has attempted to determine the direction whence currents came, by observations on the dip of the stratula, as he considers the direction to be the opposite to this dip in relation to the plane of true bedding ; and he con- cludes from a series of observations, that the drifting current which formed the coal sandstone beds on the southern part of the coast of Northumberland came from north 9° east.t The * Tate’s Fossil Flora of the Mountain Limestone Formation in Dr. Johnston’s Botany of the Eastern Borders, p. 299. + Proceedings of the Yorkshire Geological Society for 1852, p. 232. Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell. 103 Beadnell beds, however, do not lead to any such general conclusion ; for I found in the same stratum, and within a distance of not many yards, that the Stratula in one place dipped from 40° to 70° to the north, and in another place at similar angles to the south-west by south. Probably this bed had been formed by the action of strong eddies and counter currents, which piled up ‘the drifted sand with considerable irregularity. FOSSIL ANNELIDS. Most curious and instructive are the fossil worms and tracks which occur in several layers of flaggy and ripple- marked sandstones a little northward of Ebbs Nook. They are seen also in other sandstone beds of the section, and in other localities in Northumberland. Though similar anne- ‘Jids are not unfrequent in Paleozoic rocks, they have been but seldom noticed. Species from the Silurian Formation have been described by Sir Roderick Murchison in his great work on the Silurian System, by Professor McCoy in Sedgwick’s Synopsis of the Classification of British Paleozoic Rocks, and by Mr. J. W. Salter in the Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society. Few distinct descriptions have been given of forms in the Carboniferous Formation; the only notices I know of are contained in a paper by Mr. E. W. Binney on some trails and holes formed in rocks of the | carboniferous strata ;* and in an excellent popular ‘“* Account of a large fossil marine worm occurring in the mountain limestone district in Wensleydale, Yorkshire,” by Mr. Edw. Wood, F.G.S.¢ Mr. W. Lee also refers to annelid borings, in a paper on what he calls Fossil Footprints in the carboni- ferous system.{ Having carefully examined the annelids in the Mountain Limestone Formation of Northumberland, I am able to distinguish four distinct forms; two of them are referable to crAssopopiA, (McCoy), A Genus which has been found in Silurian beds and which may be thus defined:—Body long; of excessively short, numerous, wide segments, from which arise very long, deli- cate, crowded cirri forming a broad dense fringe on each side, completely concealing the feet. These annelids appear to belong to the order Dorsibranchiata of Cuvier, and are allied to the nereides, species of which inhabit our coast. They are * Memoirs of the Manchester Philosophical Society, vol. x., p. 181. + The Naturalist, Nos. I. and II., p. 14 and 41. t Proceedings of the Yorkshire Geological Society, vol. ix., p. 409. 104 Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell. marine worms which creep in a serpentine manner, and even swim by successive undulations of their bodies or by agitating their appendages. CRASSOPODIA EMBLETONIA,* (TATE.) Plate I., fig. 1.2. Length unknown (upwards of two feet); width one inch; thickness not exceeding four lies; width of body five lines ; articulations three lines apart; cirri about four lines. long, crowded, there being twenty-four in the space of one inch. There is no appearance of a head; the width and characters are the same throughout the entire length; it occurs in large rounded loops from half an inch to more than three inches apart. Having found sections shewing the interior of this curious fossil, I have been able to determine the width of the body, and the distance of the articulations from each other. This is the most widely distributed of the carboniferous annelids; it occurs in sandstones of the mountain limestone at Beadnell, Scremerston, Howick, Haltwhistle, on the Irthing near Combe Crag, and also in flaggy beds of the millstone grit at Berlm Carr, between Alnmouth and the Coquet. Fig. 1.—Upper surface ; the keel-like centre is that por- tion of the body not covered with cirri. Fig. 2.—Section shewing the articulations of the body ; a, intestinal canal; 5, muscular layer and articulations ; c€, space occupied by cirri. CROSSOPODIA MEDIA, (TATE.) Plate I., fig. 3. 4. Length considerable (upwards of three feet nine inches), usual width about four lines, but some specimens are only three lines and others as much as six lines wide; thickness three lines ; width of body two lines; length of cirri.one line and a half, and twenty of them in the space of one inch; the width and thickness continue the same throughout the entire length. It occurs in irregular loops and long undulations which occasionally cross each other. This is quite distinct from the C. Embletonia, being much smaller and much thicker in proportion to its size; the cirri are less crowded and the foldings are more tortuous and ir- regular. It occurs in sandstone at Beadnell, abundantly at North Sunderland, at Newton-on-the-Moor, and at Howick. Fig. 3.—Upper surface. Fig. 4.—Section shewing the cirri and a cast of the body. * I have named this after my esteemed friend Mr. R. C. Embleton, the ac- complished Secretary of our Club. Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell. 105 NEMERTITES, (McLEAy,) A Genus which has been described from the Silurian Formation ; it is thus defined: Body very long, linear, slen- der, of nearly uniform thickness throughout, without distinct articulations. NEMERTITES UNDULATA. (TATE.) Plate L., fig. 5. Length unknown, (upwards of nine inches), body round, half a line in diameter, usually in loop folds from a quarter to half an inch apart; neither articulations nor cirri are observable. This species is generally found where fossil worms appear ; it occurs in sandstone at, Beadnell, North Sunderland, Howick, and Haltwhistle. Fig. 5. Nemertites undulata, accompanied with borings of other annelids; this species also is figured on Slab 6. EIONE, (TATE,) An annelid, very different from every other, occurs in considerable abundance at Howick,:in a thick flaggy sand- stone which holds a similar relative position in the mountain limestone series to some of the sandstone beds at Beadnell. This fossil too is associated with the same species of worms as are found at Beadnell. It has characters so remarkably distinct that 1 have provisionally given it a Generic, as well as a Specific name. EIONE MONILIFORMIS, (TATE) Plate L., fig. 6. Length unknown (upwards of three feet) ; body rounded, lower surface and sides moderately convex, smooth, upper annulated, diameter six lines ; articulations consisting of bead- shaped rings on the upper surface, distinctly separated from each other by a deep sulcation, the length of each articulation being five lines; it occurs in long undulations. Some indi- viduals are a little larger and others a little smaller -than the size stated ; but each preserves the size and character through- out the entire length. I have been unable to detect any internal structure, or to observe sete, cirri, or appendages. This very peculiar fossil worm may be referred to Cuvier’s order Abranchiata. Destitute of setae and cirri, it resembles the Hirundo or leech, and the Lumbricus or earth-worm ; it would progress by the contraction and extension of the subcutaneous muscular stratum. It is found at Howick, Scremerston, and Haltwhistle in Northumberland ; and I believe also in Yorkshire. Ge 106 Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadneill. Besides the forms now described there are other casts and trails at Beadnell. Some seem to be the burrows or casts of annelids, passing either perpendicularly or obliquely through several layers of rock, the upper surface of the layers being pitted and the under projecting. These casts or burrows are about two lines in diameter, and are so crowded together in some rocks both at Beadnell and Kirkwhelpington as to give the stone a pock-marked appearance. Meandering furrows about one line in width with a ridge in the centre are probably the trails of an annelid: they occur also at Howick, North Sunderland, and Haltwhistle. It has been suggested that these were tracks made by small crustaceans, but the absence of all remains of the hard shell renders this opinion doubtful. More extended observations on these borings and trails and on other markings associated with them, are required before their characters can be distinctly determined. As confirmatory of the marine conditions of the rocks in which the ripple marks and annelids are found, I may add, that the flaggy sandstone containing annelids at Howick has in some of the layers Bellerophon, Euomphalus, Murchisonia and Pleurotomaria, shells undoubtedly of marine origin. The group of facts now noticed gives us a partial glimpse of a far distant Era. The Beadnell flaggy beds expose to our view an ancient coast line; we hear the waves breaking on the shore ; we perceive currents rolling along masses of sand ; the tide recedes and ripple marks—long ridges and furrows sharp and distinct appear; and there too are seen worms, some of large size, crawling over the surface or burrowing in the sand. Marks left by the sea are often fugitive—the impressions made by one tide are obliterated by another; but here they are preserved ; the sand and mud are hardened, it may be by a warm sun breaking forth and baking the surface before the return of the tide; other deposits cover over the markings and bury up and preserve the organic forms; and now, when these rocks are laid bare and examined, they reveal to us, that the same physical laws operated during the Carboniferous Era as at the present time, and that, though the aspects of vegetation might be wonderfully different, and organic life specifically distinct, yet the animals of the period were formed according to the same type and were subject to the same con- ditions as those now existing. Before leaving the stratified rocks, allusion may be made to the illustration they afford of changes of condition and of oscillations of level. Taking the coal in connection with the limestone, there is evidence of not less than fourteen changes Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell. 107 of level; as many times, during the period when these rocks were deposited, was the district clothed with an abundant and marvellous vegetation—-as many times were there alternations of swamps and lakes, of estuaries, of lagoons, and of seas sometimes profound, but generally of moderate depth. LEAD VEIN. A little northward of the basaltic dike, a narrow crack or fissure of the sandstone contains Galena or Sulphuret of Lead. It runs across the strata from south by east to north by west ; and a branch from it forks off to the north-north-west. The vein seems too small to be worked with advantage. Its posi- tion gives probability to the theory that the igneous agency which forced upward the basalt, produced also, by sublima- ’ tion, the ore which is found in the vein. BASALTIC DIKE. When viewed from the shore near to Dunstan Square, this basaltic dike, even to one unacquainted with geological principles, is a striking and interesting object. It rises per- pendicularly through the stratified rocks, and runs in a direct line from west 85° south to east 85° north. Its width is 25 feet, but contracting seaward to 20 feet. It stands in some parts ten feet above the strata, and appears like a wall rudely piled up by Cyclopean builders ; and though, in other parts, it is broken down by the waves, its course can be dis- tinctly traced for a considerable distance into the sea. The basalt is of the usual composition, augite and felspar, but finer grained than the larger masses at Ratcheugh and the Farne Islands. The adjacent strata are very slightly altered in position; but their structural characters are changed. Coal for some distance from it is valueless ; limestone near to it will not burn into lime; and shale and sandstone are in- durated. Besides, at the point of contact, sandstones, shales, and limestones are much jointed and fissured, and assume the external form of basalt; and on the other hand, the basalt itself becomes calcareous and siliceous. This transference of qualities and the structural changes superinduced are the re- sults of the igneous agency which, by its upward pressure, rent asunder the vast mass of stratified rocks, and then poured the molten basalt into the fissures. ARCH HOLOGY. On the narrow rocky point of Ebbs Nook, overlooking the sea, stood a humble religious edifice ; which, however, so long 108 Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadneli. ago became a ruin, that for many generations it was covered over with drifted sand. Mr. Hodgson Hinde, in 1853, dis- covered the spot where it stood, and by clearing away the sand from the interior, exposed the remains of this ancient chapel. The buildings thus brought to light consist of a chancel, nave, and another apartment on the west, opening into the nave. The chapel stands directly east and west. The sizes of the several apartments are internally-— The chance] 11 feet 5 inches by 11 feet 9 inches, The nave 18 feet 9 inches by 11 feet 4 inches, The western chamber, which is not regular, in shape aver- ages 13 feet by 10 feet. In some parts the walls are remaining to the height of 5 feet ; they are usually 25 inches in thickness and built chiefly of yellow magnesian limestone, of which vast numbers of blocks are rolled by the sea to the bottom of the cliff; some few red sandstones are mingled with the limestone, and the door jambs, which are remaining, are also of sandstone. The masonry is coarse rubble work. Lime has been used to a considerable extent in the walls of the chancel and nave ; but no particle of lime appears in the walls of the western apartment, which are cemented by clay only. Thick walls with wide central openings divide the western apartment from the nave, and the nave from the chancel. These walls are 22 feet thick; the chancel opening is 5 feet, and that between the nave and the western apartment is 4 feet 8 inches in width. There had been no door between the nave and western chamber, for the end faces of the division walls are smooth ; and it is pro- bable from the great thickness, both of these and of the chancel division walls, that they had supported arches. It is difficult to say, what purpose was served by the west- ern chamber. It is undoubtedly of more rude construction than the other buildings, and appears like a subsequent addition, as the side walls are not bonded into the wall of the nave; but the wideness of the opening from the nave into it, and the absence of any indications of a door rather evidence, that it forms part of the original plan of the chapel. It may have been used as a vestment room; and probably there were other buildings near to the chapel, which furnished a residence for the priest, for there are other foundations on this promon- tory. Near the west end of the nave, there had been two small doors opposite to each other in the sonth wall. The width externally was only 2 feet 1 inch, but being splayed, they widened internally to 3 feet. When this chapel was first laid Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell. 109 bare, a portion of the head of the north door was found resting on its impost; the height of the door was then ascertained to be only 4 feet 8 inches. A low stone seat ran along the north and south walls of the nave, and also along the west wall on the north side of the opening. The Piscina of a rude form still remains inserted in the south wall. Other characteristic portions of a chapel were seen when the excavations were made, but which have since been destroyed or removed. Of these, however, a minute descrip- tion has been given by Mr. Albert Way, in the proceedings of the Archeological Institute.* In the chancel, an altar formed of coarse rubble work was found nearly entire, and on its north side a shallow stone trough. A small basin, supposed to have been a holy-water vessel, was in the south- ‘ east angle, and adjoining to it was a portion of a stone bench. It is singular to notice, that though the chancel walls were for the most part built with lime, yet clay has been used and no lime in that part, against which the altar stood. No windows nor architectural ornaments were found, from which the age of the chapel might with certainty have been de- termined. Among the rubbish, however, I saw several sand- stone slates with the nail-holes for fastening them remaining, indicating that these buildings had been covered with slate. This ruined chapel is now only about ten yards southward from the cliff, which rises 30 feet above the sea; the chapel, however, must formerly have stood at a greater distance from it; for, as already explained, masses of limestone, time after time, have tumbled down from the cliff into the sea. No sepulchral monuments or swelling hillocks are now around this chapel; but here there must have been a place of sepulture, for human bones are occasionally disinterred by the burrowing of rabbits; and when excavations were made lately, two human skeletons were found, lying parallel with each other, near to the south door of the chapel. When, it may be inquired, was this chapel erected, and why placed on such an exposed situation? Mr. Albert Way thinks that ‘these remains encourage the supposition, that the building may have been raised at a very early period after christianity was introduced into Northumberland.”’ The name of the promontory—Ebbs Nook—readily suggests that a chapel may have been erected here by St. Ebba, sister of Oswald and Oswi, kings of Northumberland, in the seventh century. It was not unusual in that early age to select lonely and exposed sites for chapels and cells. The sea-girt and * Archeological Journal, No. 44, p. 498. 110 Mr. Tate on the Geology and Archeology of Beadneil. tempest-beaten Farne had its cell and chapel; and tradition says, that St. Ebba and St. Helen built churches on lofty headlands on the Berwickshire coast—the one on St. Abbs Head and the other near to Siccar Point; but of these early structures there are no remains. Indeed, with very rare ex- ceptions, the Saxon erections have perished. Many of them were of wood, and consequently soon decayed ; those, which were of stone, fell beneath the corroding power of time, or were swept away by the ruthless hand of war, which repeatedly ravaged Northumberland. The remains of the chapel on Ebbs Nook possess no distinctive mark of a Saxon building ; doubtless it is small and rude in structure, but these charac- ters belong to all periods. When I first visited it, I sawa portion of the head of the north door, which has however since then disappeared; and I considered, that the curve in it was a part not of a rounded bat of a pointed arch. While therefore it is probable, that in Saxon times a chapel stood here, it may be, to attract especially the devotions, vows, and offerings of seamen, that first structure has entirely disappear- ed, and the remains now on Ebbs Nook belong to an edifice, which had been erected not earlier than the thirteenth century. Catalogue of the Land and Fresh-water Mollusca found in the immediate neighbourhood of Alnwick, in Northum- berland. By Gro. Ratpu Tate, M.D., Royal Artillery. The following catalogue of land and fresh-water mollusca is the result of observations made, in the neighbourhood of Alnwick, during the months of August, September, and October 1857. From the short space of time devoted to this interesting branch of natural history, many species have doubtless escaped observation, and especially those inhabiting our rivers, ponds, and ditches which have been but slightly examined. The genera zonites and helix have been more particularly studied, and have in consequence yielded pro- portionately a large number of species. Of planorbis, limgea, and other fresh-water forms, there are fewer in the district than in most parts of England ; this is partly owing to the comparative absence of slow running streams and low lying ponds. From the varied character of the country, the district is, on the whole, favourable to the production of land shells. Large tracks of wood, watered by swift flowing streams, and present- ing a beautiful alternation of hill and vale, afford a congenial habitat for the shelter loving species. Dr. Tate on the Mollusca of Alnwick. lll The richest localities are those where limestone occurs, as at Ratcheugh Crag and the Calish woods, this rock furnish- ing the lime of which the external covering of the mollusca is for the most part composed. Particular plants, moreover, afford a resting place to many species. Equisetums and grasses, which contain a large per centage of earthy salts, are much frequented by land shells. Many mollusca, in the same way as plants, are found in every situation and on every variety of soil, while others again affect particular habitats. The geological peculiarity of a district influences the dis- tribution of land shells much more, in England at least, than geographical position. All of the forms found near Alnwick are, with one exception, (Helix lamellata), observed in Hampshire, at the opposite extremity of the country. Those . peculiar to this southern part of England, and which are not observed in the north, flourish on a cretaceous soil; among those may be enumerated, Cyclostoma elegans, Bulimus acutus and Helix cantiana. The fact that mollusca pass a large portion of their time in winter in a state of hybernation, when the influence of climatal peculiarity is scarcely felt, accounts perhaps for the absence of any striking difference in the fauna of two opposite extre- mities of this country. MOLLUSCA. Ciass I1.—GASTEROPODA. ORD.—PNEUMONOBRANCHIATA. Fam.—HELICID&. GENus——VITRINA, Drap. 1. V. pellucida, Mull. Common under stones, among moss and decaying leaves. Ratcheugh, Hulne, Rugley woods, &c. Live speci- mens are most frequently met with after a shower of rain and in damp weather. GEN. ZONITES, Gray. The species of this difficult genus are not easily distinguish- able; but having carefully examined a considerable number of specimens, I venture to give specific descriptions from my own observations, in the hope of facilitating the determination of the species. 2. Z. cellarius, Mull. One of our common shells. Beneath stones, about old walls, among grass in woods, fields, and occasionally in damp cellars. Ratcheugh, &c. Shell flattened with 112 Dr. Tate on the Mollusca of Alnwick. the spire very little raised ; colour dirty yellow or pale horn ; glossy ; upper surface rather opaque, under sur- face clouded with opaque white, especially about the umbilicus; smooth or slightly wrinkled ; whorls 5 to 52; umbilicus moderately large, scarcely exposing the second whorl; aperture obliquely crescent-shaped, rather broader than high ; diameter 2-5ths to 2 an inch. 3. Z. alliarius, Mull. A widely-diffused shell, but not so common as the last, and readily distinguished from it and the other species of this genus, by the odour of garlic which the animal emits when disturbed. It frequents the same habitats as the last. Ratchengh, &c. Shell flattened, with the spire very little raised; colour pale amber or horn; transparent ; very shining ; around the umbilicus there is a little opacity ; upper surface smooth or but slightly wrinkled; whorls 32 to 4; umbilicus moderately large, scarcely exposing the second whorl; aperture crescent-shaped, not very oblique, rather broader than high; diameter 1-5th to 4 of an inch. 4. Z. nitidulus, Drap. Not so frequent as either of the preceding, yet by no means an uncommon shell. Under stones, about old walls, among grass and moss in woods and hedgerows. Ratcheugh, Hulne woods, &c. Shell flattened with the spire somewhat raised, (more so than either of the preceding) ; colour, that of horn, and a shade or two darker than that of Z. cellarius and alliarius; not shining, but dull and semi-transparent above; more transparent below, except about the umbilicus, where there is a feint band of opaque white ; upper surface irregularly wrinkled or striated; the striz interrupted by the sutures and not continued from whorl to whorl; whorls 4% with the suture well defined ; umbilicus large, exposing the second whorl ; aperture crescent-shaped, alittle oblique; rather broad- er than high; diameter 3-8ths to 3-10ths of an inch. 5. Z. radiatulus, Alder. There are several localities for this minute and well- marked species around Alnwick. Its favourite habitat is among the moss and grass in damp pastures, under stones and among moss and grass in woods. Rat- Dr. Tate on the Mollusca of Alnwick. 113 cheugh, Hulne woods, &c. Shell flattened, spire scarcely raised ; colour, deep horn or amber ; shining, transparent; under surface with- out any white opacity ; upper surface regularly and distinctly striated, the striz continued from whorl 1o whorl and not interrupted by the sutures; under sur- face smooth; whorls 32 to 4, flattened, particularly above; body whorl much larger than that preceding it; sutures shallow and broad from the arching up- wards of one whorl to join that next to it; umbilicus moderately large; aperture oblique, crescent-shaped, broader than high; diameter from 1-12th to 1-6th of an inch. 6. Z. purus, Alder. . Not uncommon among moss, decaying leaves, stumps of trees and under stones in woods and _ pastures. Ratcheugh, Hulne, and Rugley woods, &c. Shell flattened, with the spire very slightly raised ; colour, white, rarely very pale amber; transparent, not very shining ; under surface without opacity ; upper surface smooth or slightly wrinkled ; whorls 32 to 4, rather flattened above; body whorl much larger than that preceding it; sutures well defined, deep and narrow ; umbilicus moderately large ; aperture oblique, crescent- shaped, broader than high ; diameter 1-10th to 1-6th of an inch. : 7. Z. erystallinus, Mull. Common among moss, herbage, decaying leaves, and under stones in woods, pastures and hedge-rows. Ratcheugh, Hulne woods, &c. Shell flattened, with the spire very slightly raised ; colour white or with a slight greenish tinge ; very shining and transparent; under surface without opacity; upper surface smooth or slightly wrinkled ; whorls 43 to 5, of gradual increase, the body whorl being but little larger than that preceding it ; whorls flattened above ; sutures well defined ; umbilicus very small ; aperture not very oblique, crescent-shaped, about as broad as high; dia- meter from 1-12th to 1-8th of an inch. 8. Z. excavatus, Bean. Very rare. Hulne woods about the decaying stumps of trees. Shell depressed, subglobular ; colour that of darkish horn ; shining and transparent ; under surface not obscured 414 Dr. Tate on the Mollusca of Alnwick. by any white opacity ; upper surface strongly and regularly striated, the strie being continued over the base but not so well defined on this aspect; whorls 5 to 5z, well rounded, especially on the inferior surface ; umbilicus very large and capacious, disclosing all the whorls; aperture rather small, orbiculo-lunate, as broad as high; diameier % of an inch. GEN. HELIx, Drap. 9. H. aspersa, Mull. This is one of our commonest and most generally known snails. It is a pest in gardens, devouring vegetables, par- ticularly cabbage, with the greatest avidity. This species, as well as the common slug, is still used by some, in this part of the country, in their domestic pharmacopeia, and is put great trust in for the cure of pulmonary complaints. So far as my own experience goes, and from what I have been able to learn from others, it does not appear to be a remedy of any efficacy. Like many other articles of a peculiar and out-of-the-way character, a dose of snail may be productive of good, provided the patient indulging in its use is firmly convinced of its salutary powers. 10. H. arbustorum, Linn. A handsome shell, but rare near Alnwick. Hulne woods and at Alnmonth, where it is found upon reeds by the side of a ditch. 11. H. nemoralis, Linn. Common. Very plentiful on the Links by the sea shore at Alnmouth. In gardens, fields, hedge-rows, and woods. 12. H. nemoralis, var. hortensis. Found with us only in the immediate neighbourhood of the sea. Very abundant at Alnmouth. This species is very fond of the stem and leaves of Senecio Jacobea (the common Rag- wort), from a single plant of which, I have collected more than twenty specimens. It varies much in colour and external markings. A pretty variety has two narrow brown bands on the under surface, between which is a row of brown spots, each connected by a thin brown line. In the aperture of this shell and at a distance of 2 lines from its external margin, a narrow but well-marked ridge appears; the colour of this varies, and usually corresponds to that of the mouth. . 13. H. caperata. Mont. In limestone quarries and on the links by the sea coast. Ratcheugh, Alnmouth, Denwick, &c. This species, like the { Dr. Tate on the Mollusca of Alnwick. ies last, presents within its aperture a well-marked ridge of a white colour. 14. H. ericetorum, Mull. In the neighbourhood of limestone. Plentiful at Denwick, Alnwick Moor, Newton, Ratcheugh. 15. H. hispida, Linn. Common under stones in woods and pastures, and about old walls and hedge-rows. Ratcheugh, Hulne woods. H. hispida, var. concinna, at Ratcheugh. 16. H. sericea, Drap. Rare. Hulne and Calish woods, where it feeds principally upon Equisetum Telmateia in damp places. 17. H. aculeata, Mull. Rare. Occurs sparingly at Ratcheugh and Calish woods on decaying leaves. This minute and remarkable species is detected with difficulty, as its colour exactly resembles that of the leaves upon which it is found. 18. H. lamellata, Jeff. In September 1857, J detected this rare and characteristic northern shell in the Calish woods, and subsequently in Rugley wood, in both situations on decaying leaves about rocks near running water. In certain lights it exhibits a satiny appearance, the result of the action of the rays of light on the fine and sharply cut strie which cover its surface. 19. H. fulva, Mull. . - Beneath stones in quarries and old walls, and among moss and herbage in woods, hedge-rows, and pastures; not un- frequent, though seldom met with in abundance in any one locality. Ratcheugh, Denwick, Hulne woods. 20. H. fusca, Mont. Rare. On Equisetum Telmateia, in damp places in Hulne and Calish woods, associated with H. sericea. 21. H. pulchella, Mull. Rather rare. On the limestone at Alnwick moor, Ratcheugh, Calish woods, and Dunstanburgh. H. pulchella, var. costata. On the old walls at Hulne Abbey. 22. H. rotundata, Mull. Common under stones in woods, hedge-rows, and about old walls. Ratcheugh, Hulne woods, &c. 23. H. pygmaea, Drap. Rare. Among moss in a damp situation, on Shortridge . links, near Alnmouth. 116 Dr. Tate on the Mollusca of Alnwick. GEN. Butimus, Scop. 24. B. obscurus, Mull. Not uncommon. Under stones, especially on a limestone soil and about old walls. Ratcheugh, Hulne Abbey, Emble- ton, Newton. Seldom met with in abundance in one place. GEN. Pupa, Lamark. 25. P. umbilicata, Drap. Common under stones, among moss, herbage, and about rocks and old walls. Ratcheugh, &c. 26. P. muscorum, Linn. Among grass and the roots of Psamma arenaria, the com- mon bent of our links, near the sea. Not uncommon at Alnmouth and Dunstanburgh. 27. F. edentula, Drap. Rare. On dead leaves at Ratcheugh and Rugley wood. 28. P. pygmea, Drap. Rather rare. On limestone rocks and stones at Ratcheugh, Alnwick moor, and Dunstanburgh. GEN. CLausiLia, Drap. 29. C. laminata, Mont. Very rare. This elegant southern species reaches the limit of its distribution to the north in Hulne woods, where it is found very sparingly. In Hampshire this shell is frequent in the hedge-rows and woods, where it is often associated with Helix lapicida, H. cantiana and Cyclostoma elegans, forms almost peculiar to the southern portion of our island, and none of which extends so far north as Alnwick. 30. C. nigricans, Mat. and Rack. Not common. About old walls, rocks, and under stones. Calish woods, Hulne Abbey, and very abundant on the lime- stone rocks near Dunstanburgh Castle. C. nigricans, Vardubia. Rare. About an old wall in Ruskey wood. GEN. Zua, Leach. ~ 31. Z. Iubrica, Mull. Common under stones, about old walls, and among leaves and moss. Ratcheugh, Hulne Abbey, &c. GEN. SuccinEA, Drap. 32. S. putris, Linn. On herbage in wet situations, common. This species attains considerable size on Equisetum Talmateia, a plant which ap- Dr. Tate on the Mollusca of Alnwick. 117 pears to be peculiarly favourable to the development of land shells, probably from the amount of inorganic salts it contains. Besides the present mollusc, the following also live upon it: Helix fusca, H. sericea, H. rotundata, Zonites alliarius and nitidulus, Zua lubrica and Pupa umbilicata. S. putris, var. gracilis. In wet situations on a poor soil in exposed situations. Alnwick moor, Dunstanburgh, and Alnmouth. Fam. LIMNHADE. GeN. Puysa, Drap. 33. P. fontinalis, Linn. On aquatic plants in ponds and rivers, Howick pond, river Aln. I kept several specimens of this shell in an aquarium - for some months. They can raise themselves in water and sink at pleasure, as 1 have often observed, without having re- course to plants or other aids to assist their progress. They have, moreover, the power of walking along immediately beneath the surface of the water. Their usual mode of pro- gression is by a series of jerks. In ascending or descending through water, the movement is a gradual and uninterrupted one. GEN. PLANogBIs, Mull. 34. P. albus, Mull. Howick pond on aquatic plants. 35. P. glaber, Jeff. Fosse at Dunstanburgh Castle, on aquatic plants. 36. P. spinorbis, Linn. Fosse at Dunstanburgh castle and in the Kimmere lough, on aquatic plants. Gen. Lymnzus, Drap. 37. L. pereger, Mull. Common in ponds, ditches, and bogs. Alnwick moor, Hulne woods, &c. L. pereger, var. ovatus. In a small pond near Dunstanburgh Castle. 38. L. truncatulus, Mull. Frequent in ditches and bogs. Alnwick moor, &c. GEN. ANCYLUs, Geoff. 39. A. fluviatilis, Mull. Common on stones in running water. River Alo, Rugley burn, &c. 40. A. lacustris, Mull. Rare. In the Kimmere lough upon the leaves of Nuphar atea. 118 Dr. Tate on the Mollusca of Alnwick. Fam. AURICULID&. GEN. ConovuLus, Lamark. 41. C. denticulatus, Mont. Rare. A single recent specimen found below the Churchill at Alnmouth, near high water mark. GEN. Carycuium, Mull. 42. C. minimum, Mull. This very minute species is common among moss, herbage, and decaying leaves. Ratcheugh, &c. Ciass I].—AcEPHALA. OrD.—LAMELLIBRANCHIATA. Fam.—CyYCLaADIDé. GrENus—CyYcLAs, Brugiere. 43. C. cornea, Linn. Common in rivers, ponds, and ditches. River Aln, Aln- wick moor. GEN. Pisip1um, Pfeiffer. 44. P. obtusale, Pfeiff. Frequent in ditches. Alnwick moor. 45.-P. pusillum, Turt. In ponds and ditches. Dunstanburgh, Alnmouth. 46. P. pulchellum, Jenyns. Ponds and ditches. Dunstanburgh, Kimmere lough. Fam. UNIONID&. GEN. ANoponTA, Brugiere. 47. A. cygnea, Linn. Common in running water and ocedaionelly in ponds. River Aln, Howick pond. Dead shells of the following species are occasionally met with at Alnmouth, where they have been introduced with ballast :—Paludina vivipara, Bithinia tentaculata, Neritina fluviatilis and Unio pictorum. PROCEEDINGS OF THE BERWICKSHIRE NATURALISTS’ CLUB. The Annual Address, delivered at Wooler, on the 29th September, 1859. By Joun Cuarres Lanetanns, Esq., President of the Club. GENTLEMEN, Tue return of another anniversary affords me the opportunity of expressing my sincere acknowledgments, for the unexpected honour, which you conferred upon me last year, by electing me your President. A feeling of my own incompetency to occupy such a position would have led me to decline so high an honour, had not a rule of the Club forbade my doing so. I have endeavoured to fulfil one of the duties of the office in at- tending all the meetings during this summer; meetings which have been favoured by bright and beautiful weather, and marked by pleasant intercourse. I shall now attempt to discharge another duty of your President, and offer a cursory review of the proceed- ings of the past season. The courtesy and forbearance which I have already experienced at your hands, encourage me to hope, that my shortcomings on this occasion will not be subjected to a very unfriendly criticism. The anniversary meeting of 1858 was held at Norham, on the 22nd of September. I could not attend that meeting, and am indebted to Mr. Tate for the following notes of the proceedings. ‘« There were present, the President, (the Rev. W. Darnell), P. J. Selby, Rev. J. D. Clark, John Church, John Church, jun., George Tate, D. Milne Home, Wm. Boyd, Dr. Robson, Rev. R. Kirwood, B.N.C.— VOL. IV. NO. II. Hu 120 Anniversary Address. Wn. Dickson, P. Dickson, P. Clay, T. S. Grete, and J. Melrose. After dinner the President read his address, and proposed that J. C. Langlands, Esq., of Old Bewick, be the President for the ensuing year. The Rev. R. W. Kirwood and Mr. Walker were elected members. There were afterwards read the following papers :—Obituary Notice of the late Rev. Joseph Watkins Barnes, Vicar of Kendal, and Miscellanea Zoologica, by Robert Embleton, Esq.; Notes on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell, by George Tate, F.G.S.; an Account of the Spurs found near Belford Castle, by the Rev. J. D. Clark ; a Catalogue of Land and Fresh- water Shells in the neighbourhood of Alnwick, by Geo. R. Tate, M.D., Royal Artillery. Mr. Grete exhibited coins, cannon balls, and other Antiquities obtained near to Norham Castle, of which he agreed to furnish an account for our Transactions. Mr. Selby shewed two rare butterflies, Vanessa Antiopa and Colias Edusa, of which he also will give a notice. ‘‘Mr John Wheldon, of London, was nominated a member of the Club. ‘Norham, the place of meeting, though now but a poor village, was formerly a place of no little importance. It had its charter, granted by Bishop Pudsey in the 12th century, its Burgesses en- joying ‘all the liberties and free customs, which were enjoyed by the Burgesses of Newcastle and North of the Tyne,’ and its Bailiffs and Corporate Officers. It had also its weekly market, ‘keept,’ says a survey made in Queen Elizabeth’s time, ‘on the Sundaye, which by reason it is undecent is therefore the less used or esteemed.’ During the Saxon period this town was called Ubbanford, from Ubba or Offa a personal name, and a ford which here crosses the river. Its recent name Northam or Norham (that is North Town) occurs in A.D. 1082, and indicates its northern position. It gives the name Norhamshire to a con- siderable district, which was one of the earliest possessions of the see of Lindisfarne, and which subsequently formed part of the County Palatine of Durham. Over it, for many centuries, the Bishops of Durham exercised the powers of great Feudal Lords ; but these powers were taken away by an act of Parliament in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The church, the castle, and the his- torical events associated with them, still, however, give a great interest to this “locality. ‘‘ After breakfast the Club visited the church, which since the repairs and restorations effected during the incumbency of the late Anmwversary Address. 121 Dr. Gilly, is a large and impressive edifice. Notwithstanding the ravages of time and of war, there are still considerable remains of the original structure, which was erected about the middle of the 12th century. The style is late Norman, similar in character to the Galilee of Durham. Some of the old arches and piers of the nave, and the chancel arch, are in good condition; and there are three original windows which are distinguished by the bold and beau- tiful chevron ornament which adorns the circular arches. Further notice however is unnecessary, as an admirable description has been given of this church by Dr. Gilly in our Transactions; and, as he was long a member of our Club, and President of it in the year 1851, the party could not view, without feelings of deep interest, the monument which has recently been erected in the chancel to his memory. A full-length figure of the Reverend Doctor, carved in Caen stone, reposes on araised tomb, over which is a Norman arch. The sculpture expresses well the intellectual and benevolent features of this distinguished man. Within the niche is placed the following inscription :— “TO THE MEMORY OF THE REV. WILLIAM STEPHEN GILLY, D.D., VICAR OF NORHAM, CANON OF DURHAM, AND FRIEND OF THE VAUDOIS. WHOEVER SHALL LOOK UPON THIS MONUMENT, LET HIM REMEMBER THAT BY WORKS OF FAITH AND LABOURS OF LOVE A NAME MAY BE IMPERISHABLE.’ ‘A little eastward of the present church stood the older Saxon church, which was erected by Ecgrid, Bishop of Lindisfarne, in the 9th century. Several sculptured stones—fragments of this old church, have, at different times, been dug out of the foundations. One of these, with an inscription in Saxon letters, is noticed by Wallis in his History of Northumberland, in 1769, and he gives a copy of the inscription. Hutchinson subsequently gave a drawing of the whole stone, which, besides the inscription, has six heads sculptured on it. This stone has for some time been lost. Wallis’ explanation of the sculpture is very fanciful; and Dr. Raine in attempting a reading of the inscription is equally imaginative. Highteen other fragments, discovered chiefly in 1833, are now pre- served in the churchyard, built up into a pillar in imitation of the shaft of an ancient cross. One of these stones, which has been sepulchral, has an inserption in Saxon letters, which appears to be 122 Anmversary Address. P. ANIMA AELFA, probably when complete meaning ‘‘ Pray for the soul of Ailfa.”” Another stone has a figure of a monk giving the benediction ; some present strange combinations of circles ; one has a large and elaborate wheel-shaped ornament; and others fur- nish beautiful examples of knot, scroll, and diaper work. The whole of these sculptures should be figured in our Transactions, as they are an instructive group, illustrating the Saxon styles of ornament in the ninth century. ‘‘ Leaving the church, the party strolled along the north bank of the Tweed towards Milne Graden, and under the guidance of Mr. D. Milne Home, noticed the geological features of the district. The strata here consist of red and other sandstones, marly lime- stones, and shales. In the sandstones are carboniferous plants, and in the shales, species of Modiola and Entomostraca. These beds belong to the lowermost division of the mountain limestone, which I have in a former note designated as the Tuedian group ; and they lie below the workable seams of coal. The rocky strata are overlaid by a large deposit of rolled blocks and water-worn gravel, indicating that at no very distant era, the valley was filled with water to a height considerably above the present level of the river. ‘‘At Milne Graden the party were hospitably entertained ; and some time was spent there in examining a map of North Durham, on which Mr. D. Milne Home had laid down the range of the various coal seams and limestone strata. Before leaving Milne Graden the rain began to fall heavily, and as the day was unfavourable for natural history observations, the party crossed the Tweed in a boat, and returned by railway to Norham. ‘‘“Norham’s castled steep’ was next visited; and the different parts of this interesting ruin were ably explained by the Rev. J. | D. Clark. Though but a ruin, the castle is still a noble object, standing on the elevated and steep southern bank of the Tweed; and enough still remains to attest its former strength and mag- nificence. It was built by the warlike Bishop Flambard in A.D. 1121, and since that period it has been the scene of many of the leading events in Border History. Fifteen years after its erection, it was taken by David I. King of the Scots; but soon afterwards restored to the English. In A.D. 1138, it was again taken by the same king, who is said to have razed it to the ground; but the destruction had not been so complete, for a considerable portion of Flambard’s work remains on the east side and south-east cor- ner of the Keep. Bishop Pudsey repaired the broken fortifications, Anmversary Address. 123 and built a strong tower. He made additions to the western part of the Keep, and raised the height of the tower; this masonry is readily distinguishable from that of his predeces- sor. To obtain the means of accomplishing this great work, appeal was made to the superstitious feelings of the period; for a fragment of the winding sheet of St. Cuthbert, the popular Northumbrian saint, was exhibited to those who contributed money to carry on the building. arly in the 13th century, con- conferences were held in the castle between King John of England, and William the Lion of Scotland, to establish peace between the two nations; but kingly treaties were of little avail, for in A.D. 1215, Alexander, King of Scotland, besieged the castle for forty days, but without success. Norham in A.D. 1291 witnessed the submission of the candidates for the Scottish throne to Edward I. of England, who here sat in judgment on their rival pretensions. The gallant defence of Sir Thomas Grey, the governor, and the timely aid of Lords Percy and Neville, saved the castle from the Scots in A.D. 1818; such, however, was the changing fortune of Border warfare, that it fell into the hands of the Scots in A.D. 1322, but was soon retaken by Edward IL., after an assault of ten days. In the course of this century it was repeatedly besieged, taken, and recovered. It was extensively repaired and strength- ened in the early part of the 15th century; but towards the close of that century it had again fallen into a ruinous condition ; it was however put into a good state of repair and well garrisoned by Bishop Fox, and in A.D. 1498, it withstood successfully a siege by the Scots led by their gallant King James IV; the Bishop him- self hastened to succour the castle, and after a heroic defence of sixteen days, it was ultimately relieved by the Karl of Surrey, It was however taken by James in A.D. 1513 after a siege of six days ; but the disastrous battle of Flodden Field, fought soon after, when so many flowers of Scotland’s ‘forest were a’ wede away’ caused it to be restored to the English. From this period the castle loses his- torical interest. The accession of James I. to the English throne brought peace to the Borders, and strong castles and Peel towers, adapted for defence and not for comfort, lost their importance, and were for the most part abandoned, and suffered to fall into decay. Neglect, the silent aggressions of time, and the more serious dilapidations occasioned by the inhabitants of the district using the castle as a quarry, to supply stones ready prepared to build houses, boundary walls, and even common dykes and drains, have 124 Anniversary Address. combined to render the once proud Norham Castle an uninhabit- able ruin, but still a ruin majestic and impressive.”’ The first meeting of the year, under my Presidency, was held at Berwick, on Wednesday the 27th of October. Present,—The Rev. Wm. Darnell, Rev. J. Dixon Clark, R. Embleton, Secretary, George Tate, J. Church, Wm. Dickson, Robert Home, Major Elliott, Wm. Boyd, James Grey, F. R. Wilson, and J. C. Lang- lands, the President for the year. ‘The accounts were examined, and the subscription fixed at 6s. 6d. Mr. G. Tate was appointed joint secretary with Mr. Embleton. The meetings for the year were fixed as follows:—Coldingham, May 26; Rothbury, June 30; Melrose, July 28; Wooler, September 29; and Berwick, Oct. 27. The financial business being finished, the majority of the party drove to Burnmouth, from whence they walked along the beach beyond the village of Ross: passing the point at which the carboniferous series of rocks abuts upon the Silurian beds; the ~ sandstones becoming visible in masses, on approaching Marshall Meadows. Passing through Ross, we observed a curious notice affix- ed on the door of one of the herring curing houses, to this effect :— ‘“BORDER MARRIAGES. ANDREW LYON Begs respectfully to intimate, that he can be found, at his residence, Coxon’s Lane, adjoining Walken Gate Lane, any time his services may be required, by parties visiting the Hymeneal Shrine on the Scottish Borders.” It is to be regretted that this practice still continues among residents in Scotland. The new church of St. Mary’s, recently built by Capt. Gordon, M.P., of Fyvie Castle, was visited on our return. The party assembled at dinner at the Red Lion, and had the pleasure of welcoming as their visitor, John Stuart, Esq., of Edin- burgh, the secretary of the Spalding Club; with whose valuable and beautiful work on the ‘‘Sculptured Stones and Crosses of Scotland” the Club has been made acquainted by Mr. Tate. We had the satisfaction of electing Mr. Stuart one of our members. The Club met at Coldingham, on Thursday, the 26th of May. After breakfast the remains of the Priory were examined under the able guidance of Mr. Dickson, whose connection with the parish of Coldingham, as owner of the estate of Whitecross, on which formerly stood one of the crosses which marked the bound- ary of the sanctuary, in addition to his taste and information im Annwersary Address. 125 antiquarian pursuits, give him great interest in this once extensive ecclesiastical foundation. The paper by Dr. Hood on Coldingham Priory, which was read in 1856, must be familiar to most of you. I shall, therefore, content myself by condensing a few remarks upon the Priory from the pen of one, who, alas! can no longer instruct or amuse us, by his varied stores of information—the late Rev. Dr. Raine. The Priory was founded in 1098 by king Edgar, and dedicated to 8.8. Cuthbert, Mary, and Ebba. Its large possessions gave the name of Coldinghamshire to a considerable part of Berwick- shire. Its records commence at an earlier period than those of any other monastery in Scotland of which the charters have been preserved, and supply much new and valuable information with respect to that kingdom. From the locality of the Priory of Coldingham, and its connection with England, its history is of more importance than that of any other Border monastery. Al- though locally situated within the territory of Scotland, it was subordinate to an English Church—that of Durham; which ex- ercised over it an absolute control, and appropriated to its own use a considerable portion of its revenues. The church of Colding- ham was therefore not unnaturally a source of jealousy to Scotland in times of peace, and an object of open attack in time of war. Often did the monks find it necessary to conciliate the protection of their powerful neighbours, the Earls of Dunbar, the Douglases, and the Homes, by beneficial leases, or places of emolument ; and in time of war, were not unfrequently driven from their Priory to await at Holy Island, or Durham, the truce which might send them home to empty garners and a desecrated church. In 1485 an Act of the Scottish Parliament annexed the Priory of Coldingham to the Royal Chapel of Stirling. In 1544, the Priory was partially burnt and destroyed, in the reign of Henry VIII., on the retreat of the Earl of Hertford, afterwards Duke of Somerset. Its demolition was completed by Cromwell on his in- vasion of Scotland in 1648. The inhabitants of the district, who were for the most part Churchmen and Royalists, offered some opposition to the Protector, and defended themselves in a massive square tower, which stood at the north-west corner of the Priory. The tower was shattered by his artillery, and the south wall of the church at the same time was blown down with gunpowder. Of the present remains of the Priory of Coldingham, a few words may be said: they are but a small part of the former edifice. The- 126 Anniversary Address. domestic buildings have nearly all disappeared, but the rude in- equalities of the ground prove them to have been of considerable extent, as might naturally have been expected in the case of an establishment so opulent in its endowment, and so marked by the favour of the earlier Scottish kings. Of the church itself, Dr. Raine remarks in his preface to the Surtees papers of 1841: the north aisle only remains, which is used as the parish church. The architectural features of this portion of the original church are of a very interesting character. The base is externally Norman, of a somewhat late date. The upper portions of the walls, and in- ternally the whole fabric, are of the Early English period; and the ornamental parts of these portions will bear a rigid com- parison with the most highly finished buildings of that most striking style. Recent excavations have proved that the north and east walls are those of the choir of king Edgar’s magnificent structure, built over the ruins of the chancel of a former nunnery, the apsidal termination of which was laid bare in clearing out the rubbish. The Heritors of the parish, assisted by Her Majesty’s Commissioners of Woods and Forests, to whom the fabric belongs, have, highly to their honour, lately completed a preservation of this part of the structure, which is used as the Parish Church. The inside has been stripped of the unsightly galleries and pews, which, with the whitewash, concealed the finest part of the work, and by which the beautiful masonry had been mutilated and effaced. On the outside, the earth has been excavated and re- moved from the base of the building, and the incongruous erec- tions, which clustered against the north wall, have been removed. The solid mass of masonry which was built up in 1662, to restore the part destroyed during the Great Rebellion, has been pierced by lancet windows, and the west gable has been rebuilt in uni- formity with the east and north walls. ‘The propriety of thus closing up the choir in the place where the arch once stood, as well as the adoption of a flat roof, may perhaps be questioned ; but so much has been done to improve that it is perhaps unfair to criticise. The architect employed was Mr. W. J. Gray, a native of Colding- cham. The workmanship of the whole has been very well executed, and the general effect of the beautiful Karly English arcade inside is very striking. With the exception of a short period after the demolition of the church by Cromwell, it seems to have been always used as a place of worship. Anniversary Address, 127 The first Presbyterian Minister after the Revolution was Mr. John Dysart; he was forced on the unwilling parishioners, who were chiefly staunch Episcopalians, by the military in 1694, their own clergyman continuing to officiate in a barn. Leaving the Priory, the party proceeded to St. Abb’s Head and Coldingham Loch, under the guidance of Mr. Heriot of Northfield, who kindly accompanied them. ‘The beauty and colouring of this bold and picturesque coast, enhanced as it was by bril- liant sunshine and a clear smooth sea, afforded such a series of pictures as are not to be rivalled. The extraordinary contortions of the Silurian strata which form part of these precipitous heights have long attracted the attention, and supplied materials for spec- ulation to some of our most eminent geologists. They extend from Siccar Point to Burnmouth, on each side of the igneous rocks which are intruded about St. Abb’s Head. For the follow- ing valuable notes on this interesting sea wall, I am indebted to Mr. Tate, who had set out from Coldingham at an early hour :— ‘Tempted by the fineness of the morning, I started very early, under the guidance of Mr. Wilson of Coldingham, to ramble over the neighbourhood, and more especially to examine the rocks and antiquities of St. Abb’s Head. Coldingham stands on porphyry, (a fire-formed rock), which ranges from the Eye water to the north side of Coldingham sands. This rock is seen in the Eye, and it forms cliffs in the narrow glen in which Cole Burn flows. The bold headland of St. Abb’s is also porphyry, which extends from Coldingham sands northward about two miles to Petticowick Cove, forming a promontory jutting into the sea; and more effect- ually resisting the wasting action of the German ocean, than the softer greywacke rocks, which it has pierced through and uplifted. The porphyry is usually of a reddish colour, having a claystone base, through which are scattered a few crystals of felspar ; at the north end it is amygdaloidal, and not unfrequently contains green earth ; in the more southern parts amygdaloidal tufa occurs. This promontory consists of four hills separated from each other by what are here called ‘‘nicks” or high valleys. The same term is used to designate similar valleys in the basaltic range in south Northumberland, which is crested with the Roman wall; there we have the ‘‘ Nine Nicks of Thirlwall.’”’ The most southerly and lowest of St. Abb’s hills is the Castle Hill, named so from the resemblance presented by the rocks to a ruined castle; the Kirk Hill follows, next is Harelaw, and the largest and boldest is the Headland. Some parts of the rock are softer than others, especially I 128 Anniversary Address. where there is tufa; and these portions have been hollowed out and caverned and worn into deep chasms; here, even in moderate weather, there is a heavy roll of the tide, and a hoarse gurgle is heard resounding among the caverns. ‘The scenery is wonder- fully varied, picturesque, and impressive. In front of the lofty cliffs are many detached masses of rocks. Some are single, surrounded by the sea, others are in groups; all, however, are fashioned by the elements, into peculiar, and not unfre- quently grotesque forms; not a few resemble ruined buildings and towers. One rock in Petticowick Bay had for its old name ‘‘The Auld Wife ;” its more modern name is “‘ Lord Brougham,” from an odd likeness to that distinguished orator; there are his wig—his marvellous nose—his projecting and heavy under lip, and a vivid imagination can even see the Judge’s robe. ‘“‘The stratified rocks in this district are greywacke and grey- wacke slate, being part of that formation, which extends across Berwickshire in a west-south-west direction, and which has been ranked as lower Silurian by Murchison and Cambrian by Sedgwick. These rocks are seen at the mouth of the Cole Burn and at Colding- ham sands, on the south side of the porphyry; they appear again at the north’side in Petticowick Cove, where they form a series of remarkable foldings and curvatures, in one part dipping north- north-west 50 degrees and at a short distance making a complete bend, and dipping 50 degrees to the south-east. Westward of St. Abb’s Head, greywacke forms the Raven’s Brae; a deep swampy valley here separates the stratified from the igneous rocks. Most probably this had been scooped out when the district was under water, for beneath the soil is a considerable aeccumula- tion of rounded water-worn stones. A natural cause was, how- ever, not sufficient for the old chroniclers ; one relates that, im the seventh century, the sea flowed miraculously into this valley, and that for seven days St. Abb’s Head was converted into an island, in order that the Virgin Queen Edelthyra and her two Holy Virgins Sewenna and Sewara might be protected from her husband King Fefrid. He had given her permission to become a Nun in the sanctuary of Ebba, but changing his mind, he followed. her to -bring her back by force; but the miraculous flow of the water evidenced to him, that the Deity was unfavourable to his purpose, and he therefore abandoned the attempt and returned to York. ‘“‘In the course of our ramble we saw a singular mass of arti- ficially fused rock, called ‘‘The Deil’s Danders,” standing on the south side of the Cole Burn where it joins the sea; it is six feet Anmuversary Address. 129 - high, and as many in diameter at the base. It is said to have formerly been considerably higher; and it was then useful as a ‘‘ Mead” or landmark for seamen. This mass is a kind of scoria with fragments of greywacke interspersed. Its origin is doubtful; one account states, that about sixty years ago, in accordance with the advice of Sir James Hall, an attempt was made to procure lime by burning the greywacke, and that the ‘“‘Danders” was the result. The popular name however indicates amore remote origin; and it is scarcely probable that” so” good a geologist and chemist as Sir James Hall would recommend such an attempt, since greywacke contains little or no lime. More probable is the opinion, that the ‘“‘ Danders” is a monu- ment of an abortive experiment made by the medizval Monks of Coldingham to obtain lime from rocks in their own district, to save the expense of bringing it from the neighbourhood of Berwick. - ‘‘Hecclesiastical remains are on two of the hills constituting Abb’s point—on the Kirk Hill and on the Headland. A monas- tery was erected at an early period in Saxon times on Abb’s Head, probably indeed sometime previously to the middle of the seventh century.* Certain it is, however, that about this period Ebba was the head of a religious establishment here, when, according to. Bede, it was visited by the renowned Northumbrian Saint Cuthbert. Not long after Ebba’s death it was burnt through care- lessness in A.D. 679. Another convent-was subsequently built, but whether on the Headland or on the site of the Priory of Coldingham is doubtful. This was also, in A.D. 870, destroyed by the Danish chieftains Inguar and Hubba. Of the early Saxon buildings on the Headland no vestiges remain ; and the ruins now seen on the two hills are, I think, referable to the early pari of the twelfth century; for in Carr’s History of Coldingham, written in 18386, it is stated, that ‘‘the walls of St. Abb’s Kirk and a small Saxon arch were seen within these few years.’’ Doubtless the arch referred to was of the Norman period; it was the fashion at the period when Mr. Carr wrote, to call ‘‘Saxon,” the circular arches which are now well known to be the work of the latter portion of the eleventh and early portion of the twelfth centuries. *When St. Ebba drifted on shore at Coldburg Head, about 640 A.D., she found a religious establishment already existing. It was probably founded by St. Cuthbert about 570 A.D. 130 Anniversary Address. Churches stood on both hills; the plan, which is distinctly trace- able and is peculiar, is the same in both. Little more than the foundations remain of that on the Kirk Hill; internally it is 72 feet long, and 22 feet broad, with walls 4 feet in thickness, built partly of porphyry and partly of sandstone. The bound- ary of a small cemetery is also visible; and formerly there were several monumental stones. A farmer, however, it is said, coveted this ‘‘God’s Acre,” tore up the tombstones, tumbled these memorials of the dead over the cliff into the sea, and ploughed up the green ‘ heaving turf.’ “The ruins on the Headland most probably mark the site of Ebba’s monastery. Thesituation is singularly wild and picturesque. Here the porphyry presents to the sea a stupendous wall, about 300 feet in height; protruding from this wall into the sea, is a mass having a lower level; it is indeed a little peninsula of about two acres, united to the mainland by a narrow neck, which has been cut into, so as to form a ditch, the inner edge of which was defended by a strong wall and probably also by a draw bridge. This portion of the Headland is hence named the ‘‘ ramparts.” The church stood near to the edge of the northern cliff, indeed only two yards from it. The remains shew somewhat more than the foundations ; the wall on some parts is three feet high, built entirely of porphyry. The size is about the same as that on Kirk Hill, being 72 feet long by 21 feet broad. A door is in the south- west corner, and there appears to have been a flight of steps from the exterior into the church of about three feet in height; another door opened from the north about eleven feet from the west end. The peculiarity of both churches is however in the chancel, which was a small recess of a square form at the south-east corner, being about twelve feet in breadth, or about half the width of the church, and eight and a half feet long. This, I believe, is an unusual arrangement. ‘To the west of the church are obscure remains of other buildings which had probably been the inhabited portion of the monastery. Few if any records throw light on the history of these edifices. They had, I think, been subordinate to the mag- nificent establishment which flourished at Coldingham ; and they may have been placed on commanding positions on the sea shore to attract the attention of mariners and induce them to make their offerings before the shrine of the Sainted Ebba. ‘Though confined, lonely, and inhospitable, the situation of the monastery was tolerably secure, and the scenery romantic and picturesque. Viewed on a fine day, such as we enjoyed, with a Anniversary Address. 131 clear blue sky above, and a bright sun illuminating rock and sea, there was even much beauty in the scene. Columns and broken masses of rock rise on the north side of the platform whereon the buildings stood ; but through the opening between them, we look down a deep chasm, bounded on the north by lofty cliffs, adorned by lichens and mosses, here and there relieved with patches of the bright sea pink, and of the sea campion with its white flowers and glaucous green leaves. Isolated pillars and masses of rock stand in the midst of the sea, and, resembling a group of buildings, they have been named the Barn Yard. According to Scott, Melrose should be visited by moonlight, and I am told that when these rocks are viewed by moonlight, the illusion is complete—the farm house with its chimney is seen, and beside it may be recognised the various buildings usually clustered around a farm house. Few spots would therefore be more fitted for recluses than this. Shut out from the world and placed amid impressive natural objects, they had around them abundant materials suggestive of thought and calculated to excite the feelings; and if, in the calm and sun- shine, there is much to minister to fancy and gratify taste, how powerfully would such a scene impress the mind, when the wild wind blew, and the ocean was lashed into a storm.” Mr. Heriot conducted us to the summit of a precipitous sea cliff north-west of St. Abb’s Head, called Earnsheugh, on which there is a curious three walled camp placed on the very edge of the precipice, three sides of which supplied it-with a natural bulwark, elevated 430 feet above the sea. This camp has a striking re- semblance to the large camp at Old Bewick in Northumberland. Many of the knolls also, between Earnsheugh and Coldingham Loch, are marked by trenches. The loch is a fine sheet of water, about thirty acres in extent; and about 250 feet above the sea. The view from the summit of St. Abb’s Head is very fine. To the south are the distant Cheviots, Bamburgh Castle, the Farne Islands, and the Holy Isle; turning round, to the north, are Fast Castle, the Bass Rock, Tantallon Castle, and the Isle of May, with the Fife coast in the extreme distance. Several rare birds were noticed during the ramble, especially two pairs of Peregrine Falcons, and two pairs of Ravens. The buckbean (Menyanthes trifoliata), and the yellow water-lily (NWuphar lutea), were found near the loch; and the rose-root (hodiola rosea), in great luxu- riance on the cliffs about St. Abb’s Head. Some of the party extended their walk to Fast Castle, the Wolf’s Crag of the Bride of Lammermuir. 132 Anmversary Address. The party assembled at dinner, consisted of J. C. Langlands, President, Robert Embleton and G. Tate, Secretaries, Wm. Dickson, Rev. Dixon Clark, Rev. Wm. Darnell, W. Watson, C. Watson, F. R. Wilson, Dr. Robson, W. Boyd, J. Boyd, Scott Dudgeon, Geo. Hughes, jun., J. Macbeath, W. Logan, C. Rea, J. Clay, and Ralph Carr; ~vith Mr. Heriot, Mr. Lomas, Mr. Pringle Hughes, and Mr. Edmund Carr as visitors. The following gentle- men were proposed for election at the next meeting :—Rey. J. A. Bennett, Ellingham, Mr. Pringle Hughes, Middleton Hall, Dr. Embleton, Newcastle, Mr. Middleton Dand, Hauxley, Mr. Stephen Sanderson, Berwick, Mr. James Maidment, 25, Royal Circus, Edinburgh. The meeting at Rothbury was held on Thursday the 28th June. Present, the President, G. Tate, Secretary, Rev. Dixon Clark, Rev. F. Simpson, Rev. W. Dunn, J. Clay, F. R. Wilson, Ralph Carr, J. Stuart, Charles Rea, Jas. Grey, R. G. Huggup, Rev. G. S. Thomson, M. Dand; and as visitors, Rev. A. Procter, Rev. J. Hall, and F. Simpson, jun. The drive over the rugged mountain road on a beautiful sum- mer’s morning gave a peculiar relish to the breakfast at the Three Half Moons, after which the members visited Rothbury church, and examined with much interest the fragment of the Saxon cross, which now serves as the shaft or pillar of the Font, and which was described: by Mr. Dickson in the last year’s trans- actions. A headless figure was formerly set in the wall on the right-hand side of the south porch of the church—the right hand bearing a sword, the left a large purse, representing St. James of Compostella—like the fragments of the Saxon cross, it also has disappeared since the restoration of the church. The Rev. J. Hall shewed the members some urns, and an iron weapon, which, with a number of bones had been found in cists at Tosson and Rothbury. A description of these will be given in a separate paper. The party then strolled down the banks of the Coquet to Brinkburn Priory—viewing on their way the romantic Thrum or Scottish ford, the Reiver’s Well, one of those wonderful springs of water which occur in several places in this neighbour- hood. They passed round the Crag End, on which is situated the quarry of pure white close-grained freestone, from whence the massive blocks are procured for the landings and staircases of Alnwick Castle. The extensive works of the new iron smelting company were passed; but no smelting appeared to be going on at present. Anniversary Address. 133 In a deep dark dell, at the bend of the river on the north bank of the Coquet, stands Brinkburn Priory, one of the finest relics of the transitional period in England. The site of the monastery must have been chosen, with a view to perfect seclusion. The opposite bank is rocky and precipitous, and covered with wood. The approach is partly cut through a rock, and affords no view of the building till we come within a few yards of the north door of the church. The Priory chapel, with the exception of the roofs and the south-west angle of the nave, was in very perfect preservation ; and some years ago, it was in contemplation to restore the roof, in order that Divine service might be celebrated there. Mainly through the energy of the late Archdeacon Sharp, Vicar of the adjoining parish of Hartburn, a fund was collected by public subscription for the purpose; but the then proprietor, Mr. Fenwick, claimed the building as his private property, and the attempt was not made. The fund has remained in the hands of the Archdeacons of Northumberland until it now amounts to up- wards of £3000. The roofs of the chapel, and the dilapidated parts of the stone work, have recently been restored at a very considerable cost ; under the able direction of T. Austin, Esq., Architect, Newcastle. The good work which has been accomplished, is entirely the resulé of private exertions; and the restoration will proceed until the building is rendered, once more, a fitting’ temple for the worship of God. Some difficulty has occurred respecting the appropria- tion of the fund, but it is hoped that it may yet be overcome. As the object for which it was raised is attained, an attempt is about to be made to make it applicable to the payment of a clergyman, and to allow the Vicar of Felton to cede the chapelry of Framling- ton, which, united to Brinkburn, shall constitute a benefice. The history of the Monastery of Brinkburn, Brenkburn, or Brincaburgh is very obscure. William Bertram, second Baron of Mitford, is generally believed to be the founder, in the reign of Henry I. Leland attributes the foundation to a member of the families of Felton or Lisle. An abstract of the Brinkburn char- tulary is printed in the Archeologia Ailiana. It is now the property of C. H. Cadogan, Esq., whose modern residence occu- pies part of the site of the monastic buildings. Iam glad to have this opportunity of expressing our obligations to him, for his kindness in permitting us to view this interesting relic; as well as for his courtesy in affording information regarding the restoration . 134 Annversary Address. The right of sepulture within the chapel is still claimed, or per- mitted, to some properties in the vicinity. On the 24th May, 1828, Fenwick of Brinkheugh shot his son, the bullet used being the top of a brass extinguisher. He was tried and acquitted on the ground of insanity. The young man was interred in the family burial place belonging to Brinkheugh, in the south transept of the Priory church. Brinkheugh has since been purchased by Mr. Cadogan. In clearing away the rubbish inside the church, a coped coffin lid was found; in the centre is a cross with trefoils, on the right side is a Bishop’s mitre, on the left of the shaft of the cross is a pastoral staff. An inscription in well cut letters runs round, one word of which seems to have baffled all attempts to read it. It is the tombstone of Prior William, who was a suffragan under the Bishop of Durham, and who died in 1484. Dr. Raine conjectured that the word was the name of a Scottish or foreign see, of which he had formerly, ‘‘quondam,” been Bishop. He never saw the tombstone himself, but investigated the matter, having a copy of the inscription supplied to him by the Rev. John Bigge. They found a regular list of the suffragans of Durham, subsequent to 1484; and in the rolls of the Bishop of Durham, there is an entry of certain sums paid as a salary to William Prior of Brinkburn, as suffragan to the Bishop of Durham. Pellitory-of-the-wall (Parietaria officinalis) was observed in abundance about the ruin, as is usually the case near monastic buildings, forming as it used to do part of the materia medica of the monks. The Rev. C. Vernon Harcourt on our return to Rothbury politely invited the members to visit Whitton Tower, one of the ancient Border Peel Towers; had time permitted, I am sure it would have afforded us much gratification to have availed our- selves of the Rector’s kindness. It was with regret that we found his health prevented his joining our dinner party. After dinner Mr. F. R. Wilson showed some carefully executed drawings of Chibburn near Warkworth; a religious house of the fourteenth century, and explained the peculiarities of its structure. He then read an excellent paper on Brinkburn Priory, which was accom- panied by a highly finished wood cut, presented by him to the Club, and which appears in this number of the transactions. The members proposed at the last meeting were elected, and the Rey. Aislabie Procter of Alwinton, and Dr. Lewis George Broadbent of Bamburgh were proposed. Anniversary Address. 135 The Club met at Melrose on Thursday the 28th July. Present, the President, the Rev. J. Dixon Clark, the Rev. W. Darnell, Robert Home, J. Macbeath, Wm. Boyd, S. Sanderson, Rev. J. Baird, Rev. Thomas Leishman, Major Elliott; and the Rev. W. Murray, Melrose, Mr. Curle, and C. J. Langlands as visitors. The members proposed at the last meeting were elected, and the Rev. J. D. Clark proposed Charles Bertie Pulleine Bosanquet, Esq., of Rock; and Mr. Macbeath proposed Wm. Melville Lomas, Esq. of Horbury Hall, Wakefield, for election. The distant position of Melrose, and railway arrangements, made it late ere the members could assemble: after a hasty luncheon, they proceeded to the Abbey—the finest specimen of the Decorated style of which Scotland can boast. Amidst the ruins, close by ‘“‘the marble stone” where ‘‘a Scottish Monarch slept below,” the interesting historical sketch of this famous foundation, drawn up for the meeting by John Stuart, Esq., F.A.S., Edin- burgh, was read, to the manifest gratification of some fair tourists who were present, as well as of our members. The beauty of this ruin is well known; its most minute ornaments retain their sharpness, and seem as entire as when newly wrought, after having resisted the weather for so many ages. Leaving the Abbey, the party separated; some to visit Abbotsford—the realization of the great author’s dream of territorial acquisition; some, on a ramble to the pretty little valley, about two miles west of Melrose, “The Fairy,” or ‘‘nameless glen,” rentarkable for the ‘‘ Fury Stones’? which are found after falls of rain, washed out of the boulder*clay, through which the little brook cuts its downward course. These concretions contain about 30 per cent. of lime, and are probably segregations of the lime, originally diffused through the clay; the lime in the course of its separation from the mass has attracted to it certain quantities of the earthy matter. The cause why this occurs is obscure, but we know that certain minerals do separate from others; ironstone nodules from shale—flints from chalk—and chert out of the limestone on the Tweed, are examples of this fact. I state this on better authority than my own—that of Mr. Tate. This little glen is also interesting, as being the scene where many of the events of the great novelist’s romance of ‘‘The Monastery” are supposed to have taken place. Another party climbed the three picturesque Hildon Hills, to inspect the remains of the ancient camps, on the eastern hill; and to enjoy the glorious prospect which embraces such a wide extent of the borders. Sir Walter Scott used to say, that he could point out from this hill ab 136 Anniversary Address. nearly fifty places, noted as the scenes of Border exploits, or celebrated in Border song. The plants observed, were musk Mallow (Malva moschata), Wall Rue (Asplenium Ruta-muraria), yellow Stonecrop (Sedum reflecum), and in abundance on the top of the hills Bilberry (Vaceiniwm Myrtillus). Mr. Wilham Boyd announced the intention of the Rev. James Turnbull to resign as member of the Club, he being on the point of emigrating to Africa. Mr. Turnbull wished it to be made known to the members who take an interest in Entomology, that he shall be glad to afford any assistance in his power, in that department of natural history. His address will be, ‘‘ Beaufort, Cape Colony.” T have one mournful duty to discharge, in recording the death of two of our members since the last anniversary, the Rev. T. S. Goldie, of Coldstream, has been taken away at a mature age; and Dr. George Douglas, of Kelso, has been cut off in the prime of life, leaving a youthful widow to deplore his loss. The progressive increase of members, augurs well for the future success of the Club. Since the last anniversary fourteen new members have been elected ; all of whom, I hope, have joined it, determined to contribute something to the general stock of in- formation—some of them, I am sure, are likely to be active promoters of its objects.* The details which I have submitted to you, show that the attention of the Club has been more than usually directed, this summer, towards Archeology. This has arisen in some measure, from the circumstance that the natural history, botany, and geology of the district have been pretty well worked up; but chiefly, because the places chosen for our meetings have peculiarly favoured the pursuit of such studies. In this particular depart- ment a broad and rich field of labour is still before us. The border district, within the limits of the Club, is richly studded with numerous ancient dwellings, hill forts, and camps, many of which remain unnoticed in the more secluded parts of the district. Much has been done of late to elucidate the Roman _ *New Mempers.—Rev. R. W. Kirwood; J. Walker, Greenlaw; J. Wheldon, London; J. Stuart, F.A.S., Edinburgh: Rev. J. W. Bennett, Ellingham ; Pringle Hughes, Middleton Hall; Dr. Embleton, Newcastle ; Middleton Dand, Hauxley; J. Sanderson, Berwick; James Maidment, Royal Circus, Edinburgh; Rev. Aislabie Procter, Alwinton; Dr. Lewis George Broadbent, Bamburgh; Charles Bertie Pulleine Bosanquet, Rock; and W. Melville Lomas, Horbury Hall, Wakefield. Anniversary Address. 137 portion of the history of Northumberland, by the accurate and beautiful surveys which have been executed at the cost of His Grace the Duke of Northumberland, by Mr. Maclauchlan. The Duke proposes, I believe, next to direct the attention of that ac- complished surveyor and antiquary to laying down the still more ancient series of fortifications, which stretch across from the hills near which we are now assembled, to the coast.* The tale of the curious sculptured stones, which have been found in close connection with so many of these camps, is yet un- told. Mr. Tate has been engaged upon this investigation, and will, I hope, ere long, have something to disclose to us. We need not despair, after the progress which has been made in deciphering the Runic inscriptions, that a key to the meaning of these strange circles, may be discovered. The past season has been very peculiar in its character. Suc- ceeding a year of unusual dryness, the same absence of rain has marked its course; water has become scarce, and many weak springs have been dried up. From the 1st of January up to the 28th of September only 20 days of rain, and 34 days of changeable weather are noted, while we mark 214 days of fair weather. The winter was remarkably mild, the Jowest temperature reached, being January 14th 27°, February 8th 29°, March 31st 25°, April 1st and 16th 26°. The summer which succeeded has been hot, the thermometer in the shade having reached, May 29th 78°, July 10th 76°, July 16th 86°, August 13th and 18th 76°. The average temperature at 8 a.m. has been January 40°, February 40°, March 483°, April 424°, May 503°, June 56°, July 603°, August 604°, and September 53°. The fall of rain at Lilburn Tower from January 1st to September 14th has only amounted to 14-031 inches. Notwithstanding the high temperature there has been an absence of thunder storms in this district; but the Aurora Borealis has appeared unusually early—on the 28th August. * ANncIENT FortiFications.—Yeavering, Akeld (Gleed’s Cleugh, Harehope), Humbledon, Green Castle (Cup and Saucer), Maiden Castle (Kettles Camp), Weetwood, Doddington, Horton, Chatton, Chillingham, Ros Castle, Lyham, Belford Moor (Roman), Belford, Outchester (Roman), Spindlestone. Bracons.—Yeavering, Ros Castle, Warenton Law, Bamburgh, and Alnwick. + Fatt or Rar at Litsurn Towrr.—January 0°875, February 1-740, March 2:055, April 2:295, May 0°345, June 1°820, July 2°156, August 1-245, September 1:500. Total 14:031 inches. 138 Annversary Address. The harvest which is just concluded, has been one of the finest ever remembered ; from its commencement, early in August, to the 9th of September there was only once or twice a slight shower of rain, and hot airy weather prevailed. The insect tribes, espe- cially the destructive sorts, have not been so prevalent as is generally the case in hot summers. The Black Caterpillar or Collier, being the larvee of the Athalia centifolie, which committed such ravages on the turnip crops in 1835, 1836, and 18387, as also in 1780 and 1783, made its appearance in the beginning of July, after an east wind which followed some extremely hot weather. Though very destructive during its stay, it did not remain long. Our kindred society, the Tyneside Naturalists’ Club, held a meeting on the 17th of August, on Cheviot. A joint meeting of the Clubs for personal and friendly intercourse was suggested, by their President, the Rev. H. B. Tristram; this was not practicable, but four of our members, Mr. Carr, Hedgeley; Mr. Tate; Mr. T. Tate, Hastings; and Mr. F. R. Wilson met the party at the remains of the ancient British town, near Linhope; and on the following day, I had the pleasure of accompanying them from Bolton to Hulne Park, and visiting with them ‘‘The Guards” (a reputed Roman camp), which is historically interesting as the meeting place of the Harl of Surrey, with Lord Dacre and the forces from the west, on his advance to Flodden Field. There is a subject which has lately called forth some remarks from my friend, the President of the Tyneside Club, which is im- portant to all lovers of natural history, and to which I wish to draw your attention; it is the wanton destruction of rare birds and beasts, some of which have entirely disappeared; and also the eradication of plants, many of which, once common enough, are no longer to be found. Draining and agricultural improve- ment may to a great extent be the causes of the latter; but the Botanist is himself partly to blame, when he removes a rare plant from its habitat—forgetting that he deprives those who follow him of a gratification equal to his own. Such pilfering would long ago have eradicated the Lady’s Slipper ( Cypripedium Calceolus), in Castle Eden dene, but for the friendly watch which Mr. Burdon has found it necessary to keep over it; if similar care had been taken, the Osmunda regalis might still have existed among the rocks at Rowting Linn. Two Hoopoos have been shot this summer, in Northumber- land. This bird is almost domesticated in Holland, and would Anniversary Address. 139 become so with us, if unmolested. I lately found a very fine specimen of the Horned Owl, now becoming rare, which had been wantonly shot. The Peregrine Falcon, which used to breed on the moors close by my residence, has disappeared for many years. One of the pairs of Ravens which is still left in Nor- thumberland, occasionally gratify us with their wild cry. But even these have been driven from their time honoured nest, by having their young ones shot in it. This destruction must not be charged against naturalists; it is mainly effected by the license which is permitted to gamekeepers, to destroy every thing which they may think proper to deem injurious to game. The enormous increase of Rats and Rabbits, also, is greatly owing to the de- struction of their active little enemies, the Weazels, by persons of this class. Surely something might be done to check this growing evil. Allow me, in conclusion, to express my thanks to the Secretaries, for the kind assistance which I have received from them; and to apologise to you, for having taxed your patience to such an un- reasonable extent. May the Club flourish, and long continue to realise the intentions of our Founder. The motto which he selected, ‘‘ MARE ET TELLUS, ET QUOD TEGIT OMNIA, C&LUM,” indicates a boundless range for investigation, in every part of which—to use the words of a charming modern writer—‘‘ The naturalist acknowledges the finger mark of God, and wonders, and wor- ships.” Urinkbun Priory. By F. R. Witson, Associate of the Royal Institution of British Architects. “T ransacked for a theme of song, Much ancient chronicle and long.” In the green shade of a deep-set valley on the banks of the river Coquet, Osbertus Colutarius built Brinkburn Priory. The smoke from the hospitable fires of the Priory must have mingled its fleecy clouds with the boughs of outspreading trees; and the sound of the church bell must have reverberated thunderlike through their intertwined branches, for, on both sides of the river, high banks, crested with trees, rise steeply up to a great altitude and shut out the world from the Priory, much as a convent gate shuts out the world from its inmates. These banks are clothed with one rich 140 Mr. Wilson on Brinkburn Priory. entanglement of foliage, through which juts of grey rock protrude themselves covered with mellow patches of amber lichens, and from which tall fir trees cast sombre shadows into the rippling stream below. . Situated in a spot so far removed from the highway, Brinkburn unfortunately escaped the notice of our earliest chorographers. This is to be regretted, as every notice of a building by a competent person is a link in its history. Camden, however, refers to the book of Brinkburn abbey for information on various subjects. This was the chartulary of Brinkburn Priory, an archeological treasure which is happily still in existence. An index compiled by Hodgson and published in the Archeologia ‘liana is the only portion that is accessible now to the antiquary, for after a long repose in the Stowe collection, the Book of Brinkburn Abbey passed into private hands at the memorable sale. The topographer of the last century, painstaking Francis Grose, Esq., was more exact in his researches ; and has made due mention, with due appreciation of the venerable pile. Hutchinson, Wallis, and Hodgson have all endorsed Grose’s remarks. In our own day, Turner in his ‘“‘Beau- ties of England and Wales,’ has immortalised the stage of decay at which it had arrived before the present restorations were undertaken ; Cope, the royal academician has painted it ; and the Rev. John Louis Petit, and the gifted Sidney Gibson, Esq., have lit up this building with their pens, each after his own inimitable manner. Jt would appear, after an enumeration of so many learned notices of the Priory, that there can be but little left to say upon the subject. But this is far from being the case. The history of Brinkburn Priory is not finished yet. Year after year facts of interest come to light which should be carefully recorded for the benefit of future generations of such societies as this, of which we have the honour of being members. In one year a fragment of the bell of the church, which had so often called men’s thoughts from earth to heaven, and which Wallis says was removed. to Durham Cathedral, was found buried at the root of a tree on the hill on the opposite side of the river. In another year a bronze medizeval vase was dug up about twenty yards south-west from the south-west angle of the nave, beneath a layer of charred earth and wood ashes, apparently the debris of a wooden building. It was nearly full of bright broad gold rose nobles of Edward the - Third’s reign, most of which have the Calais mint mark; a few dated from the short reign of Richard II. ; and one from the reign of Henry IV. A roughly hewn stone trough was placed inverted over the precious treasure—amounting in all to nearly three hundred pieces. Old people in the neighbourhood talk about curiously carved chairs, which they can remember as having seen in cottages round about; from which remembrance we may form a hope, that we have not seen the last of the hidden treasure or dispersed furniture of the long departed Canons. And when we take into consideration the important restorations now in progress, we may fairly assume that there are many chapters in the history of Brinkburn yet untold. Mr. Wilson on Brinkburn Priory. 141 In the reign of Henry I., William Bertram, Baron of Mitford, gave the site of these buildings to Osbertus Colutarius for the purpose of founding a priory of Black Canons. With the consent of his wife and son he endowed it richly with lands and woods. Subsequently his grandson made additional grants of land, with permission to cut timber out of his woods for the use of the Priory; besides allowing the Canons the privilege of killing game—a liberty there is no doubt they highly valued. This was the age when princes and nobles vied with each other in their zealous liberality to the church. It was a time also of unbounded superstition, when men’s minds easily received the conviction, that the founding of a church to the glory of God must infallibly secure permanent and hereditary absolution for the founder and his heirs. Hence the profuse gifts, the ample endowments, and the liberties of taking fish and killing game so liberally granted to the religious communities of this period. Farther on in the march of time, it is recorded, that Prince Henry, afterwards King of Scotland, being created Earl of Northumberland by King Stephen, gave the property of a salt pan at Warkworth. He and his son William de Warren (so called from his mother’s family) confirmed all previous privileges and possessions; the same being again eonfirmed more than once in those turbulent times by royal charter. Gifts flowed freely in from all quarters. The Canons sometimes made droll bargains to suit the wants of their Convent. Among others they granted two tofts at the east end of Newbig- gen to Simon son of Mangur, jun., in consideration of the yearly rent of 500 herrings! Kdibles must have been a most pressing necessity in an age when every traveller made a convent his inn ; when passing regiments laid the community under contributions; and when foraging parties of Scots often stripped the priory of its stores. About this time, in the 8th year of the reign of Richard the Second, the Lady Johanna induced her son Ralph Lord Guystocke to give the impropriation and adyvowson of Long Horsley to the priory. The Canons of Brinkburn agreed, in return for this power vested in their hands, that the said Johanna and her heirs, Lords of Morpeth, should for ever have the power of nominating one Canon there ; in virtue of which agreement we: find Allen, son of John de Prestwick, soon afterwards nominated. Alas! for the heirs of the pious lady Johanna! The power vested in them forever was confined to very few generations. About a hundred and fifty years from this time Thomas Cromwell, whilome a hanger on at a Surrey blacksmith’s forge, afterwards Secretary of State to Henry VIII. sent his fire-brand of a commission across the length and breadth of the country, which resulted in the dissolution of six hundred and forty-five monasteries, including this priory. Many are the Brinkburn legends of foes and fays; and historical facts are scarcely less numerous. In the year 1414 the Prior of Brinkburn was deputed to attend a congress at “The City of Constance,” when no less a subject was in agitation than the claims of three rival Popes to be the rightful occupiers of the 142 Mr. Wilson on Brinkburn Priory. Papal chair. The Bishop of Durham was convened to attend this conclave, but being too much occupied with French negociations at the time to be able to leave, he deputed the Prior of Brinkburn to go in his stead. Accordingly in one of the account rolls of the monks of Lindisfarne, we find an item of 6s. 8d. as a contribution towards the Prior of Brinkburn’s travelling expenses to ‘the city of Constance.”’ Almost the last incident in the history of Brinkburn Priory, is recorded by the herald John Younge, in his account of the “‘ Fyancelles of Margaret daughter of Henry 7th to James King of Scotland.” He relates that when the splendid cavalcade of the Princess left Newcastle for Alnwick Castle “‘Half a mylle out of the said towne was Sir Humphrey Lyslle and the Prior of Bringburn, well appoynted and well horst to the number of xx horsys. Their folks arrayed of their liveray.” In all probability the Prior carried his most costly crucifix for the princess to kiss, as the herald records the observance of this ceremony in all similar cases on the long road from London to Edinburgh. A very short time after this, we find Sir Humphrey Lisle turning round upon his friend the Prior of Brinkburn, no longer travelling in his company to pay respect to a maiden princess, but carrying off his cattle, stealing his goods, taking his servants and tenants prisoners and setting them in the stocks, as may be seen from the following extract from a letter written by Thomas Dacres, and published in Hodgson’s History of Northumberland :— «To my lordes of the king our soveraigne lordes most honorable counsail. ‘‘My singular good lordes in most humble and lowly wise I recommend me to you—in so much as I am one of the justices of the kings peas within the county of Northumberland, and also have authority by commission for reforming of attemptates within the same, the copie whereof I send your lordships with my servant this bearer, the pore prior of Brinkburne for such injuries, wrongs, and misdemeanours as of late were committed and done to him, his brethern, their servants and tenants, as well as in taking their goods and cattelles, as presonning of their servants and tenants, setting them in the stocks wrongasly, as also putting the vicar of Felton, beying a chanon of Brenkburn, from his cure and taking his cors prisoner, and now serving the cure by a secu- lar preeste put in by Sir Humphrey Lisle, knight, with other attemptates committed and done by the said Sir Humphrey and others, his childrn, servants and tenants.” ~ The Lisles and their followers suffered severely for their moss- trooping indiscretions, for finding their luck turning, they sub- mitted themselves to the Earl of Northumberland, and were subsequently decapitated in various parts of the kingdom. The annual revenue of the Priory of Brinkburn at the dissolution of the monasteries was £68 19s. 1d., according to Dugdale; but according to Speed it amounted to £77. The ten Canons living in this peaceful dwelling were dismissed ; the buildings they had inhabited, the lands they had cultivated and the privileges they Mr. Wilson on Brinkburn Priory. 143 had enjoyed were bestowed by Edward VI. upon John Dudley, afterwards Duke of Northumberland—better known perhaps as the ambitious and ill-fated father-in-law of Lady Jane Grey. In the short life time of the same monarch, Brinkburn passed into the possession of the martial family of Fenwick of Fenwick. Pro- bably they held it in the first instance by lease, for it has been ascertained that Ambrose Dudley and his co-feoffee, Richard Bowland, sold it, May 26th, 1571, to Sir John Forster, Knight, whose descendant, Edward Forster of Eldford, on the 18th of April, 1626, sold it to George Fenwick of Grey’s Inn, London. The supposition that the Fenwicks held Brinkburn by lease, long before the absolute purchase, is founded on the frequent mention of the Fenwicks of Brinkburn, prior to that event. A George Fenwick of Brinkburn was one of the gentlemen of the middle marches as early as 1550. The site of the old Priory buildings is occupied by the modern mansion of the present owner of the property, beneath which is a crypt, which once formed part of the ancient edifice. In Grose’s time, the Priory had been converted into a farmhouse. In the view of the church, given in his work, we can just discern the Priory buildings depicted in the distance, with the character of their mullioned windows. In most vivid contrast to the disappear- ance of nearly every vestige of the domestic buildings, was the very perfect preservation of the Priory church. The roof and south-west angle alone appear to have suffered at the hands of Time. The disappearance of the greater part of a turret stair, in this fallen angle of the church, has led to a general misunder- standing as to its ancient purpose. It has been erroneously supposed to have led to a guest chamber or other monastic ac- commodation ; when in reality it was the access to the triforium. This is certain for two good reasons. First, because there is no other access to the triforium or to the passage in front of the western triplet. Secondly, because there never was an instance in which a church was made a thoroughfare to a guest chamber. The plan of the church is cruciform; having a nave 22 ft. 8 in. wide, and 70 ft. 4in. long, with a north aisle; a chancel 37 ft. 9 in. long, and 22 ft. 5in. wide; north and south transepts both with aisles ; and a total length including the tower of 130 ft. 10 in. At the point of intersection there is a very low square tower ; so low, that it is scarcely visible from the adjacent country. On the exterior of the south side of the nave there is a beautiful arcade of trefoil arches supported on slender shafts, which proclaim the existence of a cloister on this side of the building. The chancel is peculiar. It is lighted by three tiers of triplet windows; the two lower tiers possessing pointed arches, while the arches on the third tier are round and very plain. The doorways have circular arches. The north-west doorway stands slightly forward sur- mounted by a gable in which is contained three pointed trefoil arches resting on shafts similar in character to those forming part of the decorations of the cloister, but smaller in size. This door- way is richly decorated with Norman ornaments, intermixed with 144 Mr. Wilson on Brinkburn Priory. the early English quatre-foil flower, and presents as beautiful a specimen of the mingling of these two styles as any we have left us. : The tower partakes of the marked transitional character of the rest of the building, being supported by Norman piers spanned by early English arches. The transepts appear to have been the only part of the building vaulted with stone; the roof of the nave, aisles, and chancels having been in all probability constructed of timber. Such at all events is the interpretation put upon the evidence by the architect, Thomas Austen, Esq., under whose auspices a handsome timber roof, covered with small tiles, has been placed over the building. The effect of this restoration is most pleasing, the quiet red hue of the tiles of the new roof making a cheerful contrast to the deep green of the umbrageous trees with which it is surrounded. Very little sunshine ever falls upon Brinkburn Church, for the shadows seem to love to linger in its quiet precincts, but when the rays of a sunset burnish the rose windows of the gables and send autumn tints quivering over the climbing foliage on the steep banks around, a scene is pre- sented to the eye that memory will cherish after many others are forgotten. It is impossible to find, upon the whole, a more perfect and chaste representation of the transitional period of two important eras in our national architecture, than we see in these remains. The characteristic feature of Gothic architecture, namely its thorough adaptability to the requirements of any given site, or for the wants for which the buildings were intended, are in our subject exemplified to a most charming degree; and if we except the romantic ruins of Fountains Abbey, or the grander and more elaborate remains of Tintern Abbey, .there is no parallel to be found throughout England or Wales, to the choice ruins of Brink- burn Priory. The illustration which I have the honour to present to the Club is from a photograph taken by Mr. Trotter, of Alnwick, from the opposite side of the river looking upon the west end. Itis engraved on wood by the eminent architectural wood engraver, Alfred Williams, Esq., of Zhe Illustrated London News. The restoration of the Church has been in contemplation for many years. It is unlikely that service has been held since the dissolution ; but burials were made as late.as 1745. Grose men- tions that a few years before his time a scheme was set on foot, for the fitting up part of the church for the performance of divine worship; and Wallis records that a brief was obtained for that purpose. But this great and interesting undertaking has been reserved for the several members of the family who at present own this long neglected edifice, and who, with fitting appreciation of the importance of the work in an archeological point of view, have brought every accessory at command to the difficult task. Operations were commenced in the spring of 1858. It is notice- able, as a proof of the excellence of the workmanship of the Early English buildings, how well the masonry has stood the wear and tear of 700 seasons. The situation being remarkably sheltered, i Mr. Stuart on Melrose. 145 but little damage was to be expected from wind; nevertheless thunderstorms and deluges of rain, with consequent floods from the river, might have been more disastrous in their consequences, but for the solidity of the foundation and strength of the masonry. The monks of Brinkburn Priory succeeded in entailing their beautiful church upon centuries of generations, and the judicious restorations now in progress will assist in furthering their endea- vours for scores of generations to come. After we have viewed our subject with all its feudal accessories of steel-clad founders, royal charters, and pious gifts of lands and woods; with all its architectural detail of tower, turret, and cloister ; with fancied resonance of chant and chime still lingering in nooks; the most romantic legend in connection with it still remains untold. The fairies, dead and gone this many a weary year, are supposed to lie buried at Brinkburn. Peace be to their tiny ashes! for they could not have a more fitting place of sepul- ture; nor more verdant aisles than those from which the birds and bees intone their requiem. dtlelrose. By Joun Srvart, F.8.A., Edinburgh. The history of Melrose as a religious establishment draws back to that early time when the torch of the Christian faith kindled at the shrine of Iona was soon after rekindled at holy Lindisfarne, and dispersed its beneficent light over heathen Northumbria. At that time the kingdom of the saintly Oswald extended through Lothian to the Forth, and when, with the assistance of Aidan, he had trained a colony of monks at Holy Island, he dispersed them into various religious houses which he established. One of these was Melrose, which dates from about the middle of the 7th century. Of this monastery, Eata, one of twelve Saxon youths instructed by Aidan, was the first Abbot, when Boisil was its Prior. The next Prior, who as a boy, herded his flocks in the neighbouring vale of the Leader, has, as the holy Cuthbert, left an imperishable name, not so much for the many miracles attributed to him by his biographers, as for the austere piety, unworldly self-denial, and missionary zeal, by which he awed and converted the neighbouring pagans to the Christian faith. This primitive monastery was burned by Kenneth, King of the Scots, in his invasion of the Saxon territory, but in 875 it seems to have been rebuilt, when it became one of the resting places of the body of St. Cuthbert, when removed from its sepulchre at Lindisfarne, on account of the invasion of the Danes. Before the end of the 11th century Melrose appears to have been ruined and. deserted, except for a short time between 1073 and 1075, when it became the retreat of a few monks, among whom was the historian. 146 Mr. Stuart on Melrose. Turgot, afterwards Bishop of St. Andrew’s, and Confessor to Margaret, the saintly queen of Malcolm Canmore. The monastery was succeeded by a church or chapel dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and dependant on the Priory of Durham or Coldingham, till between 1126 and 1186, when David I. exchanged for it the church at Berwick, and annexed it to the new Monastery at Melrose, which he founded in the latter year. This chapel became famous as a resort of pilgrims. Towards the middle of the 13th century this sanctuary was the dwelling of a monk named Aidan, reputed of great sanctity, who for twenty years never entered a bed, but slept sitting or lying before the altar of the Virgin in that chapel, at the door of which he sat during the day time reading his psalter, sup- plying the wants of the poor who visited the sanctuary, from a basket of provisions which he kept beside him, and bestowing his blessing upon all visitors, among whom were King Alexander IT. and many of his nobles. This venerable Monastery of Melrose was not on the same site as that whose ruins our members have now assembled to inspect, but on a promontory surrounded by the Tweed at a place now called cld Melrose, about two miles farther down the stream. Yet in writing of the second foundation, it seemed impossible not to linger for a time over the first, and to feel that the glory of that humble structure which witnessed the missionary labours of Aidan and Boisil and Cuthbert, transcends that of the second, although the. grandeur and beauty of the latter yet remain to charm and surprize us, while the other only survives in the dim pages of early chroniclers. In 1186 King David I. founded the modern Abbey of Melrose, having brought thither from Rievalle in Yorkshire a colony of Cistertian Monks. The church, which was ten years in building, was finished in 1146, and was with great pomp and solemnity dedi- cated to the Blessed Virgin, on the 28th July of that year, and the establishment soon became rich from the benefactions of the Scottish monarchs and their great subjects. About 1321 the church was pillaged and destroyed by the English under Edward II. In consequence of that destruction, King Robert Bruce, to aid in rebuilding the church, granted to the monks all wards, reliefs, maritages, escheats, fines, amerci- aments, issues, and perquisites of both Justiciary and Sheriff Courts belonging to himself and his heirs within the Sheriffdom of Roxburgh, to be held by them until they should have fully raised the sum of £2000 sterling; a gift which appears to have enabled them to erect the beautiful fabric whose ruins still remain. In 1329 the same King, a few weeks before his death, addressed to his son David and his successors a letter recom- mending to their especial favour the monastery of Melrose, in which he had ordered his heart to be entombed, and in which he earnestly enjoined them to allow:the monks to enjoy all his donations for the rebuilding of their church, and to increase rather than diminish them. This purpose of the Scottish monarch touching the resting-place of his heart seems to have been altered Mr. Stuart on Melrose. 147 by a last thought, for we know that he gave it in charge to the good Sir James Douglas, that he should bear his heart to the Holy Land, whither he had formerly meditated a pilgrimage in expi- ation of his early sacrilege in the slaughter of the Red Comyn in the church of the Minor Friars at Dumfries. The history of that gallant heart will not be forgotten, which records that the good Sir James, in pursuance of his promise to the dying King, set out with his precious treasure, in company with a noble cavalcade, to bear it to Palestine, but learning that a war was going on between the Christians, under Alonzo King of Leon, and the unbelieving Moors, in Granada, he diverged thither, in order to signalize his prowess against the Saracens. In his first attack, after the defeat of the Moorish cavalry, the impetuosity of Douglas carried him away from his friends, when he was surrounded by the Moors and overpowered. Finding this, he took from his neck the casket which contained the heart of Bruce, exclaiming ‘‘ now pass on- ward as thou wert wont, and Douglas will follow thee or die.” They were his last words. On the following day the body and the casket were both found on the field. It is said that both were brought home, the body of Douglas to repose among the ashes of his ancestors in the church of St. Bride, in the little dark vale of Douglas, and the heart of his Sovereign to lie in the stately Monas- tery of Melrose, according to the original design of the King. This must have been before the present building was completed, the work of which was commenced in 1326, and which is in the Decorated Style of the period. It has been asserted that some parts of the building date from the time of James IV. and perhaps we may find traces of something approaching to the Perpendicular Style of that period (rare as it is in Scotland) in the great east window, which is 37 feet in height and 16 in breadth. Sir Walter Scott’s description of this great window will readily occur as both true and beautiful. The church is almost the only remaining part of the Monastery, and it is greatly ruined. The west end of the nave is gone, but from the extremity of the nave now remaining to the end of the chancel it measures about 250 feet. The tran- septs measure from one extreme to the other 115 feet, and the breadth of the nave and side aisles is 69 feet within the walls. The nave has a narrow lofty north aisle, and a double south aisle, the outer one being much lower than the inner, and divided into eight chapels running the whole length of the nave. There is a buttress betwixt each window, which terminates in a pinnacle, and from these spring flying buttresses over the roof of the side aisle for the support of the main wall of the nave. Every part of the ruin bears marks of the Decorated sculptures, which have been more numerous or better preserved on the face of the south tran- sept than elsewhere, and the delicacy of which may be traced in the doorway leading from the north transept to the ruined cloisters. The grotesque figures and clusters of plants and flowers which occur in various places are worthy of study. Among the latter are lilies, ferns, grapes, leeks, oak leaves with acorns, palms, hollies, and fir cones. 148 My. Stuart on Melrose. On the floor of the chancel lies a slab of polished marble of a greenish black colour, with petrified shells imbedded in it, and of a semi-hexagonal form, which is believed to cover the dust of King Alexander II. who was interred beside the high altar of this church in 1249. Within the church were likewise deposited the remains of James, Earl of Douglas, slain at Otterburn, as well as those of Sir William Douglas, the Knight of Liddisdale, the latter having been interred before the altar of St. Bride’s Chapel. In 1544 Melrose was partially destroyed by parties of English, under Sir Ralph Eure and Sir Brian Lauton, when the tombs of the Douglases were defaced, an insult wiped out on Ancrum Moor in the following year. Then came the period of the Reformation, when our church lands became generally secularized. After passing through several hands, the possessions of the Abbey of Melrose became at last vested in the Earl of Haddington, in the reign of James VL., from whose descendants they were acquired by the family of Buccleuch about the beginning of the 18th century. It is probable from the pieces of burnt oak and melted lead that have been found by digging upon the site of the Monastery, that its buildings were destroyed by fire. At various times the ruins are said to have been used as a quarry for building houses in Melrose, and at last, about 1618, a part of the nave was con- verted into a Parish Kirk—a species of adaptation which has invariably proved disastrous to old buildings. Many of the carved stone images from the niches all over the building, which escaped the fury of the Reformation, remained till the Covenanting Icon- oclasts turned their attention to them, when they were demolished. Of the brotherhood of Melrose, it has been alleged in an old Scottish song— “OQ! the Monks of Melrose made gude kale On Fridays when they fasted ; They wanted neither beef nor ale As long as their neighbours’ lasted.” That they had the means of making good cheer without en- croaching on the larders of their neighbours, may be gathered from the following statement of the rent of the Abbey in 1561 :— Scots money, £1758. Wheat, 14 chalders 9 bolls. Bear, 56 chalders 5 bolls. Meal, 78 chalders 18 bolls 1 firlot. Oats, 44 chalders 10 bolls. Capons, 84. Poultry, 620. Butter, 105 stones. Salt, 8 chalders. Peats, 340 loads. Carriages, 500. My. Tate on the Berwickshire Mountain Limestone Fauna. 149 Fauna of the Mountain Limestone Formation on the Berwickshire coast, with a preliminary notice of the succession of the strata on the astern Borders. By Guo. Tats, F.G.S Living plants and animals, observed within the district of the Club, have been carefully noticed in its Transactions; few, how- ever, of the extinct organisms have been recorded. An attempt was made to fill up a blank, by the Monograph on the Fossil Plants, which was published in the ‘‘Natural History of the Eastern Borders ;”’ and lists have been given in our Transactions of animal remains found on the Farne, at Beadnell, and at Howick. But as an excuse, why so little has been accomplished in this de- partment of natural history, it should be recollected, that the scientific study of fossils is but of recent origin, and that the collection and accurate determination of them demand much time and labour. Materials, however, have been gradually accumu- lating to illustrate the Paleontology of the district, and it may be hoped, that, at no very distant period, an ample catalogue of our fossils may be completed. Meantime as ‘‘ Ars longa est, sed vita brevis,” I purpose giving, as opportunity offers and as far as I am able, lists of the extinct organisms which may be observed in locali- ties visited time after time by the Club; but these lists will be far from exhausting the subject, for many fossils are found in an imperfect state, and do not possess the characters requisite for correct determination, while many more will remain, for years to come, locked up in their rocky cabinets. As preliminary to these lists, a brief and general sketch of the succession and range of the strata in the border counties of Ber- wickshire and Northumberland will be of some use. The formations belong to the Paleozoic Era, and in ascending order are— I.—The Cambrian of Sedgwick or Lower Silurian of Murchison. II.—The Devonian or Old Red Sandstone. II1I.—The Carboniferous. IV.—The Permian or Magnesian Limestone. I.—The Cambrian or Lower Silurian rocks form the Lammer- muir hills, the axis of Berwickshire; and range across the county in a west-south-west direction from Siccar Point and Burnmouth, in a belt having an average width of about ten miles. The rock is generally Greywacke and Greywacke slate. This formation is prolonged into Selkirkshire and Roxburghshire, and thence into the western part of Northumberland, where it is seen on the flanks of the Porphyry of the Cheviot on the Coquet above Philip, and again in a similar position at Whitelee on the Reed near to Carter Fell. The only undoubted organic remain discovered in this formation in our district is a Graptolite, which was found by Mr. Wm. Stevenson, on the Dye Water; he has also noticed some curious markings on slabs, for which he thinks it is difficult to account without supposing the influence of organic agency.* It * Proceedings of the Geological Society, Vol. IV., p. 29. Kx 150 Mr. Tate on the Berwickshire Mountain Limestone Fauna. is probable that Annelids are also entombed in some of the Ber- wickshire beds, as both Annelids and Graptolites have been discovered, in other parts of the range, at Grierston and Thornie- lee on the Tweed in Selkirkshire. I1.—The Devonian or Old Red Sandstone formation occupies a considerable area in the central and south-western parts of Ber- wickshire. There is a fine section of it on the north side of the Lammermuirs, from Siccar Point to the mouth of the Pees; the conglomerate is seen overlying unconformably the Silurian or Cambrian strata. In Northumberland we find it in Roddam Dean on the flanks of the Cheviot Porphyry, where it contains rolled pebbles and blocks of this Porphyry, evidencing that the Cheviots had been protruded previously to the deposition of the Old Red conglomerate. There is no physical break in Berwick- shire between the Old Red Sandstone and the Carboniferous form- ation; but the limits of the former are nearly marked by the occurrence, near to the Pees mouth, of Holoptychius nobilissimus and Pterichthys maor, which are fish characteristic of the upper beds of the Old Red Sandstone. III.—The Carboniferous formation occupies nearly the whole of Northumberland, and a considerable area of the south of Berwick shire, with a small patch or two in the northern part of that county. Four groups are distinguishable ; commencing with the uppermost we have: 1—The Coal Measures ; 2—The Millstone Grit ; 3—The Mountain Limestone; 4—The Tuedian Group. 1—The Coal Measures are a series of alternating strata of sand- stones, shales, ironstone, and coal; with an abundance of remains of land plants, and, in a few beds, of Fish and fresh-water Mollusks, (Anthrocosia King), allied to the Unio of our rivers. Lacustrine conditions are generally indicated. The term ‘‘Coal Measures” usually applied to this group is objectionable, because workable beds of coal are contained in other groups, though not in such abundance and excellence of quality as in this. These Coal Measures constitute the Newcastle coal field, and occupy the triangular area in Northumberland which lies east- ward of a line drawn from the mouth of the Coquet to Wylam on the Tyne. They do not extend into Berwickshire. 2—The Millstone Grit consists of coarse gritty and conglomerate beds interstratified with sandstones and with thin beds of coal. It lies at the base of the Coal Measures, and forms a narrow zone running from the mouth of the Aln nearly parallel with these Coal Measures. It contains remains of plants and Annelids. Grains of Protoxide of Iron and Garnets are found occasionally in the gritty sandstones. -8—The Mountain Limestone is a more complex group than the Coal Measures; it has similar alternations of sandstone, shale, iron stone and coal, and contains similar fossil plants; but we have indications of anewcondition; for intercalated with these strata, are several limestones and calcareous shales, in which marine remains are abundant. The most characteristic fossils are Brachiopods, especially Producti, and hence some of these beds have been called Mr. Tate on the Berwickshire Mountain Limestone Fauna. 181 Productal Limestones. Encrinites are locally numerous, and have given the name of Encrinal Limestones to other beds. The Mountain Limestone occupies nearly the whole of that part of Northumberland, which lies northward and westward of a line drawn from the mouth of the Aln to Riding Mill on the Tyne; but of this group, only a few of the lower beds are prolonged into Berwickshire, and they cover but a small area. One narrow strip of them extends from the mouth of the Tweed along the coast, for about five miles northward of Berwick. On the north side of the Cambrian or Silurian axis they overlie the Tuedian group, from the Cockburnspath Cove to Dunglas burn, the northern extremity of the county; but the same group of beds is continued into Haddingtonshire. 4—The Tuedian Group. In 1856, I applied this name to a series of beds, lying below the Mountain Limestone, which are largely developed on the Tweed. ‘They consist of grey, greenish, and lilac shales, sandstones, slaty sandstones sometimes calca- reous, thin beds of argillaceous limestone and chert, and a few buff magnesian limestones. Strigmaria ficoides, Lepidodendra, Coniferous trees and other plants occur in some parts of the group; but there are no workable beds of coal. The Fauna consists chiefly of fish remains, Modiole and Entomostraca. In one bed on the Tweed, Orthocerata and Pleurotomarize—marine Mollusks —are associated with Coniferous trees. The whole group is es- pecially distinguished by the absence of Brachiopods, which are abundant in the overlying Mountain Limestone. It forms a marked transitional series, intercalated between the Mountain Limestone and the Old Red Sandstone. Generally fresh-water and lacustrine conditions are indicated ; and when marine remains do occur, they are accompanied with plants which appear to have been swept into a shallow estuary. This group occupies a considerable area in the south of Ber- wickshire, and there are good sections on the Tweed and White- adder ; it is exposed on the coast from Burnmouth to near Lammer- ton Shiel ; and it is seen also, on the north side of the Lammermuirs, on the coast between the Pees mouth and Cockburnspath Cove. In Northumberland, there are sections of it in Garmitage bank and Crawley dean, which are from six to nine miles westward of Alnwick; and the same group is tilted up against the Cheviot Porphyry in Biddleston burn, and in the Coquet below Linn Brig. IV.—The Permian formation occurs only in two small patches in Northumberland, at Tynemouth and Cullercoats, where the Magnesian Limestone overlies the Coal Measures. The following list is limited to the organisms observed in the narrow strip of Mountain Limestone along the Berwickshire coast ; and in giving localities I use the term Berwick for that part of the coast which is near to the town. Crass—PISCES. Genus—Hotorrycuivs. Agassiz. 1. H. Mibberti. Ag. A tooth in black carbonaceous shale, Lammerton, associated 152 Myr. Tate on the Berwickshire Mountain Limestone Fauna. 10. with other Ganoid fish (not yet determined), plants, and large Entomostraca allied to Estheria. Scales of H. Hibbert:, I have also found in Shale at Cockburnspath. And here I may record the occurrence of a Gyracanthus in sandstone belonging to the Tuedian group, a little southward of Ross, as a specimen was found there by Mr. Langlands, the President, when the Club met at Berwick. This is a spine of the dorsal ray of a cartilaginous fish, analogous to that of the Spinax Acanthias—the Dog-fish of our coast. It is not sufficiently perfect to enable me, as yet, to identify it with any described species; the fragment is arched, and gradually tapers to a point; it is six-and-a-half inches long, and three-quarters of an inch broad; the oblique ridges covering the sides appear to be smooth. Three other species occur in Northumberland: G. formosus (Ag.), at Amble in the Coal Measures; G. Alwicensis (Ag.), and G. obliquus (McCoy), in sandstone of the Mountain Limestone formation, Alnwick Moor. G. obliques has been found also on Langton Burn, by Mr. Stevenson. Crass—MOLLUSCA. CONCHIFERA. Genus—Sanevrnouires. McCoy. S. orcuata, PhilG. Y. 2, 't. 3.4. 4. Rare in shale, Lammerton. S. variabilis, McCoy, Pal. Foss. t. 3 F., f. 6—8. “Rare in the Carboniferous Limestone of Berwick-on-Tweed.” McCoy. Genus—Scuizopus. King. S. carbonarius, Sow. Geol. Trans. vol. 5, t. 29, f. 2. In shale, Lammerton. S. depressus, Port. Geol. Rep. t. 36, f. 8. In argillaceous sandstone, Lammerton. Genus—Novcvra. Lam. NV. gibbosa, Flem. = NV. tumida, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 5. f. 15. In shale above the limestone, Marshall meadows. Genus—Amvusium. Megerle. A. Sowerby, McCoy, Carb. Foss. t. 14, f. 1. In shale, Berwick. Genus—AVIcULO-PECTEN. MoCoy. A. pera, McCoy, Carb. Foss. t. 15, f. 19: In argillaceous sandstone, Lammerton. BRACHIOPODA. Genus—Propvuctus. Sow. P. giganteus, Martin, Sow. M. C., t. 320; Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 8, f. 5. Common in limestone. Berwick, Marshall meadows and Lammerton. P. semi-reticulatus, Mart. Derb. t. 32, f. 1, 2. In limestone, Berwick and Lammerton. Mr. Tate on the Berwickshire Mountain Limestone Fauna. 168 11. P. Martini, Sow. M. C. t. 317, f. 2—4. In limestone, Berwick. 12. P. punctatus, Mart. Sow. M. C. t.323; Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 8, f. 10. In limestone, Berwick. 13. P. scabriculus, Mart. t. 36, f. 5. In calcareous shale, Berwick. 4s, P.isetosus,, Phil. Gy XY 5 2,: t..8,:£..9, 17. In impure limestone, Berwick. 15. P. Flemingit = P. longispinus, Sow. M. C. t. 68, f. 1, 2. In calcareous shale, Berwick. Genus—Cnonetes. Fischer. 16. C. sordida, Sow. Geol. Tr. 5, t. 53, f. 5, 16. In shale, Berwick and Marshall meadows. Genus—SrropHomena. Rufinesque. 17. SS. analoga, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 7, £10. In limestone, Lammerton. This species is not generally distributed in Northumberland; I have found it only at Belford Moor, Bellingham and Redesdale. De Koninck and Mr. Davidson think that the Carboniferous species is not distinguishable from the Strophomena rhomboidalis ; if this be correct, the species must have existed during an enormously long period—during the Silurian and Devonian Epocha, and far into the Carboniferous Era. 18. SS. crenstria, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 9, f. 6. In limestone and calcareous shale, Berwick. Genus—Orruis. Dalman. 19. O. resupinata, Mart. Derb. t. 49, f. 13, 14. In calcareous shale, Berwick. Genus—Sprrairer. Sow. 20. S. lhineatus, Mart. Derb. t. 36, f. 3; Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 10, f. 17. In limestone, Berwick. Acommon species in Northumberland. 21. 8S. daminosus, McCoy, Carb. Foss. t. 21, f. 4; Dav. Carb. Brach. t. 7, f. 17—22. This pretty shell is ornamented by concentric lamelle crossing longitudinal ribs. It is an interesting addition to Berwick- shire fossils, and was found by me at one of the meetings of the Club, in sandstone, at Lammerton, where it is associated with Aviculo-pecten pera, Carboniferous plants, and Ganoid fish scales. It is rare ; I have seen it in Northumberland only at Denwick, Bellingham, and Redesdale. Genus—Livnevta. Brug. 22. L. squamiformis, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 11, f. 14. In shale, Berwick, Marshall meadows. It occurs also at North Sunderland, and at Lemmington, west of Alnwick, in beds low down in the Mountain Limestone series. 22. L. mytilloides 2? Sow. M. ©. t. 19, f. 1, 2. In shale, Marshall meadows. The specimens are more elon- gate than Sowerby’s species. Genus—Discrva. Lam. 24. D. nitida, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 11, f£. 10—18. In shale, Marshall meadows, associated with the abovenamed 154 Mr. Tate on the Berwickshire Mountain Limestone Fauna. Lingule. This occurs pretty abundantly at Bellingham and Redesdale, and in the Glasgow and Lanarkshire shales. - CRUSTACEA. Genus—Cyrris. 25. C. Scoto-Burdigalensis, Hibbert. In shale, Lammerton. A description of the new form allied to Estheria will be given hereafter by Mr. Rupert Jones, a distinguished authority for fossil Entomostraca. Crass—ZOOPHYTA. Genus—Avtopurtitum. Milne Edwards. 26. A. fungites, Flem. M. Edw. Br. Foss. Cor. t. 37, f. 3. In limestone, Berwick. Genus—Lirnopenpron. Philips. 27. L. gunceum, Flem. M. Edw. Br. Foss. Cor. t. 40, f. 1. In limestone, Berwick, Marshall meadows, and Lammerton. A very common coral. 28. L. afine, Flem. M. Edw. Br. Foss. Cor. t. 39, f. 2. In limestone, Lammerton. 29. L. wrregulare, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 2, f. 14, 16. In limestone, Berwick. Genus—Lirnosrrorion. Llwyd. 30. L. Portlocki, M. Edw. Br. Foss. Cor. t. 42, f. 1. In limestone, Marshall meadows. ‘This fine coral occurs in circular masses, convex on the upper surface, about one foot in diameter, formed by the union of numbers of prismatic star-like Corallites. I have found it also at Harlow Hill on the Tyne, in one of the uppermost beds of the Mountain Lime- stone, and on the Irthing near the Roman Wall. Genus—Srenopora. Linsdale. 31. 8. tumida, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 1, f. 25. In limestone, Berwick, Lammerton, and Lammerton Shiel. Genus—Favostres. Lam. 32. F. parasitica, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 8, f. 61, 62. In limestone, encrusting Producti, Lammerton and Lammer- ton Shiel. Genus—Astrzopora. McCoy. 33. A. cyclostoma, Phil. G. Y. 2, t. 2, f. 9, 10. A rare coral. A single specimen, attached to a Productus, in limestone, Lammerton Shiel. I have found it also at Lindis- farne, Bellingham, and pretty abundantly at Newton-on-the- Moor. McCoy records the same species from Ireland, but under the name of A. antiqua. Genus—Syrinecopora. Goldfuss. 34. 8S. geniculata, Phil. G. Y. 2, f. 1. In limestone, Lammerton. Genus—Avtopora. Goldfuss. 35. A. gigas, McCoy, Carb. Foss. t. 27, f. 14. Attached to a Productus, Marshall meadows. Mr, Embleton’s Miscellanea Zooligica. 155 Miscellanea Zoologica. By R. Emsruron. RHOMBUS HIRTUS. Muller’s Top Knot. Yarr. B. F. vol. 2, p. 243. A beautiful specimen of this rare fish was taken in Beadnell Bay last autumn, and is now in my possession. It agrees in every respect with the description given by Mr. Yarrell; my specimen, however, is 8 inches in length, by 5 in breadth; being 3 inches longer. A specimen was taken some years ago in Berwick Bay, and presented by Dr. Johnston to Mr. Yarrell. SYNGNATHUS AIQUOREUS. The Aiquoreal Pipe Fish, Yarr. B. F., vol. 2, p. 335. During the last autumn I obtained two specimens of this rare fish. From Mr. Yarrell’s account, it would appear to be more plentiful on this coast, than on the southern. Botanical and Zoological Notices. By James Harpy. BOTANICAL. 1.—Cvuscura Eprruymum. August 1, 1859, I found this novelty to the Berwickshire Flora (for the ‘‘ Eastern Border’? example was Northumbrian), in a pasture field near Penmanshiel, over- running thistles (Carduus arvensis), Prunella vulgaris, Plantago lanceolata, Medicago lupulina, &. Possibly it may have been introduced with clover; but as this part of the field was a moor not many years back, it may equally claim to have originated from seeds left in the soil while in its unreclaimed state. It was con- fined to one spot. 2.—Dantuonia stricosa. As an agricultural weed in cereal erops, this is fully as worthy of record as the Wild Oat (Avena fatua), which is scarce in the Lammermoors, while D. strigosa is common. It does not lie in the soil like the wild Oat. There is a white variety, which may be the ‘Argyle Oat’ of Lawson, which s difficult to detect if one undertakes the trouble of picking seed. ats. 3.—Hasenaria viripis. Of this Orchis, thinly scattered over the Borders, compared with some parts of the North of England, I met with instances on the sea banks behind the Preventive Ser- vice houses, Redheugh, and again at the foot of Cheviot near Langleyford Hope—single specimens only. ZOOLOGICAL. 1.—Moti0vs Barzatus. Mr. Wilson sent mea specimen of this rare fish from Coldingham. 156 Mr. Hardy’s Botanical and Zoological Notices. 2.—AcmmA TEsTUDINALIS. This shell may be looked for on the Berwickshire coast. I have one slightly worn from shell-sand at Greenheugh, where the accompanying shells did not appear to have travelled far. 3.—AcuerontiA Atropos. Two Death’s-Head Moths have reached me this summer, from the vicinity of Cockburnspath. The caterpillars were general in 1858, and, that year, I had two of the moths from East Lothian. 4.—Hive Ber carryrine From Grass, &c. In the Scottish Gardener, vol. ITI, 1854, I have recorded a long series of Wild Plants, 81 being enumerated, to which the Hive Bee resorts for honey or pollen. On the 4th July, 1859, I was greatly surprised to find a Bee engaged in detaching the pollen from the florets of Holcus mollis. This was near half-past 7 in the evening, when the day’s labours were nearly over in the hive. It rested on the flowers, and rubbed the anthers with its legs, scattering by this means the pale sulphur-coloured dust, of which it obtained a considerable quantity. The Common Dock (Rumex obtusifolius), and the Knot Grass (Polygonum Avicularia) yield honey on several occasions, as I have observed. 5.—A Dronz-Ber searcutne For Honry in Frowers.—It is generally believed that the Drone-Bee makes no effort to obtain food out of doors. The following is a single instance to the contrary. - On the 28th July, 1854, being in one of our deans, I witnessed a Drone alight on the flowers of the wild Angelica, (Angelica sylvestris), whose shallow cups are of a depth propor- tioned to its short feeble proboscis. I stood beside it and watched it from the instant it alighted, and it went on deliberately probing each floret that came within its reach. Flying off, it spent a few seconds upon the Meadow-sweet, but speedily correcting its mistake, it sped once more to the plant that first attracted it. Altogether I pursued its course from one umbel to another, for about five minutes. PROCEEDINGS OF THE BERWICKSHIRE NATURALISTS’ CLUB. Address delivered to the Berwickshire Naturalists’ Club, at Whittingham, September 13th, 1860. By Ratpu Carr, Ksa., President. = GENTLEMEN, Ar our Anniversary Meeting it is the President’s pleasing duty to lay before you as accurately as he can, a record of what has been done by the Club during the twelvemonth, and especially to leave a succinct memorial of those happy and social field-meetings, which to all of us, I trust, have brought not only hours of enjoyment mingled with instruc- tion, but also some accession of bodily health and energy. In my own case I feel certain that it is hardly possible to respire the air of a new district, lying perhaps not many miles from home, but nevertheless upon a different geological formation and a different subsoil, without perceiving that the earth com- municates something of its character and properties to the air, and that when man is not indolent and inactive, a corrective and a cordial are prepared for him in the atmosphere of every new locality to which business or reasonable relaxation may B.N.C.—VOL. IV. NO. IV. L 158 Anniversary Address. | carry him ; so that not only the moorland or the sea-cliffs are good after the city, but he who dwells in the purest upland valley finds that a long day’s ramble in some populous neigh- bourhood, between full hedgerows and among fields rich with the manure contributed by towns, has given him unexpected buoyancy and vigour, together with an appetite which the breeziest hill near home could not impart to him. For an account of the Meeting held at Wooler, in Septem- ber last, the club is entirely indebted to our indefatigable Secretary, Mr. Tate, whose researches into the antiquities of our district added to his great attainments and experience as a geologist, render even his passing remarks of more than ordinary weight and value. “There was a large attendance of Members at the Anniver- sary Meeting at Wooler, on the 29th of September, 1859; but as the Members arrived at the place of meeting, at dif- ferent periods, in the course of the forenoon, they started off in separate parties to view the objects of interest in the neigh- bourhood. “The day was unfavourable for natural history observations, as the various exploring parties encountered storms of wind and rain among the hills. One party visited Yeavering Bell; another wandered towards the Kettles, Middleton Hall, and Middleton Bog; and a third examined the Humbleton Ter- races. «¢ A numerous party took the route to the Kettles, a large camp on a narrow long hill, singularly protruded between two higher hills, from which it is separated by deep rocky ravines. The outer rampier of this Camp encloses an area of between three and four acres. Wallis calls it the Maiden Castle; and it is sometimes also called Greenside. Not far distant from it, to the west, is a prominent conical hill, known as the Cup and Saucer Camp, an ancient fortlet, resembling not a little the Mote hills of other parts of the county. The party walked onward to Middleton Hall, where they were hospitably enter- tained by Mr. Hughes. Here they saw a specimen of the head and antlers of the Cervus Elephus which had been taken out of Middleton bog. This bog was afterwards visited, and Annwersary Address. 159 the party set to work to exhume bones and shells. A rib and some Vertebre of the Red Deer, several freshwater shells, and a piece of Bog Iron Ore were obtained and shewn at the Meet- ing by the Rev. J. Baird. “This bog is at a short distance from Wooler water and but little above its level ; it occupies an area of about four acres and is surrounded on all sides, except on the north, with hills formed of boulder clay and gravel, which flank the higher elevations of the Cheviot porphyry. The following is a sec- tion of the deposits in descending order. Peat, in which are prostrate trees of Hazel and Birch and also Hazel Nuts, from 2 to 4 feet in thickness ; Marl, in which have been found skeletons of the Red Deer, teeth of the Boar, and great numbers of freshwater Shells of species still living in the district, 8 feet in thickness ; Blue Clay a few inches, and Boulder Clay and Gravel. “The Shells forming the marl are species of the genera Limnnea, Succinea, Planorbis, Valvata, and Cyclas. Three noble skeletons of the Cervus Elephus have been found nearly entire; one of them, Mr. Hughes estimated, from the length of the thigh bone, to have been fifteen hands in height, which is about one foot higher than the usual size of this animal. “These facts give a tolerably distinct history of the succes- sion of events on this spot. During the Boulder Clay period, the district was covered with water up to a considerable height. This period with its sub-arctic climate, its glaciers and float- ing icebergs passed away, and the present conformation of our Island was to a great extent assumed. At the base of the Middleton Hills a small lake was left, in which for several ages Mollusks lived and bred, for the accummulation of eight feet of marl, chiefly formed of their shells, indicates a consider- able lapse of time. A few land shells were washed into the lake, and Deer and Boars living along the margin or coming to it to drink, occasionally found a tomb beneath its waters and were covered over with fresh deposits of marl. In the course of time the waters were partly drained away, but the 160 Annwersary Address. ground being still watery and adapted for the growth of mosses, peat was formed over the marl, and trees and bushes growing around were, time after time, carried by floods into the marshy ground. Though drained, the place is still a damp bog. “From the Kettles I strolled along to Humbleton Heugh to see the terraces, regarding which strange theories have been proposed. Two of these so called terraces, I noticed, at dif- ferent levels, on the north side of the Heugh; the highest being about 20 feet above the other. Neither of them are quite level; the upper one is somewhat rounded, with the greatest slope towards the Heugh; the lower is about 30 yards wide and more nearly level. Hutchinson conjectures that these terraces have been formed by art, for the purpose of marshalling the Militia of the County and showing them to advantage. Pennant inclines to a similar notion. This, however, is a mere fancy, destitute even of probability. These terraces are formed on gravel, which lies at the base of the porphyry hills, and which had been accumulated when the whole valley of the Till had been filled with water. As the land emerged from the water, especially along its shores, places more or less level would appear; such places near the Heugh have been further levelled and trimmed by art, and used by the early inhabitants of the district for the purposes of cultivation. Some broad and irregular ridges and furrows running along these terraces I consider evidences of this ancient cultivation. ‘* Several Members on their return to Wooler went to the hill on which the Castle stood. Here, indeed, were its re- mains overthrown in huge masses apparently by the force of gunpowder. ‘The following extract from a record in the Tower of London and translation of an Inquisition shew that the Castle or Tower of Wooler had been erected previously to the reign of Henry III., and was even in 1254 in a ruined state. ‘Heec est pars Isabelle de Forde de terris et tenementis quee fuerunt Roberti de Muscampe que dividitur in duas partes. Anniversary Address. 161 Pars prima Una Medietas Dicta Isabella habuit Medietatem tertize partis Capitalis Mesuagii de Wolloure quod quidem Mesuagium est quedam Mota vasta nec est alicujus valoris.’ ‘Translation of an Inquisition taken on the death of Isabella de Forde by virtue of a Mandate, dated 12th day of Feb. 39 Hen. 3. 1254. ‘An Inquisition made at Wooler in the Vigil of Palm Sunday, in the year of the reign of King Henry, the son of King John, the thirty-ninth, by the Lords William of Mus- ‘ champ, Robert of The Manor, Simon of Lucker, Knights ; Thomas of Akilde, William of Stainsby, Thomas the Forester, Adam Ippejoy, Robert of Heddon, Walter of Fenton, Walter of Hextildisham, Hugh of Heddon, Warine of Belford. They say that Isabella of Forde had a third part of the capital mes- suage of Wooler, which messuage, indeed, is a certain waste fortress, and is not of any value.’ “The various parties were re-united at dinner, when there were present—the President, Messrs. J. P. Selby, Geo. Culley, Wm. Boyd, Geo. Hughes, P. Hughes, 8. Dudgeon, J. Church, J. Church, jun., C. R. P. Bosanquet, G. L. Broadbent, C. Rea, Jas. Grey, Geo. Tate, the Rev. J. Dixon Clark, A. Procter, H. Parker, and Dr. Marshall; and as visitors the Rev. Mr. Green, and Messrs. G. Rea and Dr. Alexander. “‘ After dinner, the President read an able and interesting address. “Mr. Wm. Boyd exhibited specimens of Calamintha asinos, found by him in fields near to Doddington—a plant rare in our district. Mr. Tate showed a fine quarter gold Noble of Richard IJ., found in Warkworth Church Yard. The obverse has RICARD DEI GRA REX ANG; and on a shield within a rose having trefoils in the inner angles, the arms of England and France are quartered, those of France, seme-de-lys. The re- verse has EXALTABITVR IN GLORIA, and within a rose is a rich cross fleurie, with lions passant in the angles and a fleur-de- lys above each limb of the cross. The legend—he shall be exalted in glory—probably refers to the glory which the kings 162 Annwersary Address. of England would attain when France was conquered. “‘On the nomination of the President, Ralph Carr, Esq., of Hedgley, was elected President for the ensuing year; and Mr. Chas. R. P. Bosanquet and Mr. Lomas were elected Members. The Rev. J. D. Clark proposed as a Member the Rev. Mr. Green, of Wooler, and Mr. Hughes proposed Dr. James Alexander, of Wooler.” At the time of that meeting I was far away from home, but it was evidently one full of interest. In the extract from an Inquisition held at Wooler in the reign of Henry the 3rd, communicated by Mr. Clark, we find the word Mota, in old French mote or motte, used in its primary sense of a mound cast up or escarped for the purpose of fortification, and thence for the castle or stronghold which often stood upon such es- carped ground. At a later period our English term moat came to be applied not to the rampart but to the ditch. But this is a secondary application to the word. I only make this observation because it is of some con- sequence in considering the probable etymology of the Mote Hills at Elsdon, and at Wark on North Tyne. It has been too hastily conjectured that the appellation arose from some of the Saxon gemots, mots, moots or meetings for the public business of the neighbourhood having been held on these hills. But in the first place they are called “mote hills’? not moot hills, and in the next there is a want of all positive evidence that courts were ever wont to be assembled thereon. But to return to our transactions of last autumn :— Berwick Meeting, October, 1859. I regret to say that neither was I present at this much smaller gathering of our members, when any accession would have been useful. For with part of my family I had sailed in September, for Gibraltar, on a short visit to the south of Spain, from whence we could not return until well on in November. The meeting at Berwick, in October, was but poorly at- tended; there were present Major Elliot, the Rev. W. Darnell, Dr. Clark and Messrs. Home, Logan, Church, sen., Macbeath and Embleton. After dinner it was resolved, that in future Annversary Address. 163 the meetings in September and October should be held on the second Thursdays of these months. The following places were appointed for the meetings of the Club in 1860. Chirnside on May 31st; Ellamford on June 28th; Ford, on July 26th; Whittingham, on Sept. 13th; and Berwick, on October 11th. Chirnside Meeting, May 31st, 1860. To attend this day’s excursion, my first in the capacity of President for the year, I enjoyed the benefit of my neighbour Mr. Langland’s hospitality, sleeping at his house the night before, and accompanying him from Bewick to Belford at an early hour in the morning, where we met with some brother ‘members also on their way into Berwickshire. But by the same train I was met by a member of my own family, who brought me a telegram which had just been re- ceived, requiring me to go to London, and with very great pain I felt myself compelled to give up all hope of a day with our friends at Chirnside. There could not be a more unpro- pitious beginning to my duties in the chair, and I only trust that my exit may be of better omen. Mr. Tate’s and Dr. Stuart’s notes of the day, are an available and valuable re- miniscence of the day’s ramble and its principal results. “There was a goodly muster of Members, at this the first meeting of the year, at Chirnside, on May 31st; there being present Messrs. Langlands, Home, Clay, Stevenson, Macbeath, Turnbull, Huggup, Wm. Boyd, J. Clay, C. Rea, Tate, San- derson, F. R. Wilson, Dr. Stuart, the Rev. J. Dixon Clark, and Wm. Darnell; and as visitors, Mr. Green and the Rev. Mr. Wilson. “‘ After doing justice to the well-furnished breakfast table of Dr. Stuart, the Members visited Chirnside Church, a mean and unecclesiastical looking structure, though still retaining some characteristic remains of the old Norman edifice in the round piers, cushioned capitals, round arch, and cherson or- nament of the south-western door. While here Dr. Stuart read some notes on the history of the Church and on other Antiquities in the neighbourhood of Chirnside. “ Dr. Stuart gives the following notes of our ramble :— 164 Anniversary Address. ‘Leaving Chirnside, with its gardens embowered in apple- blossom, we entered the grounds at Nine-wells by the North Gate. The fine avenue of Elms, which line the approach, are well worthy of notice, their gnarled boughs and stately growth indicating a great age. There are few plants botani- cally interesting to be found here, but the trees in the park are well-grown and picturesque in their shape. Following the banks of the Whitadder, we entered the grounds of Whitehall. The woodlands here are extremely fine and there are beautiful specimens of the Common Yew, Spanish Chesnut, Oaks and Limes, dotted over the grounds. Two very fine specimens of the Norway Pine, close to the old house, attracted particular attention. The Viola odorata under the plane trees and thorn bushes at the Blue-stone ford, is surely wild. Removed as it is from the neighbourhood of gardens, and the large space of ground completely carpeted with it, would, I think, incline most botanists to come to this conclusion. In March, the banks are completely covered with the deliciously scented blossoms of this interesting plant, and at that early season, it is truly one of Flora’s gems. The Anacharis Alsinastrum, was observed in the pools of the river, below the Blue-stone ford, where it collects in matted beds, till a spate occurs, when it is carried to the sea. ‘The fishers on the Whitadder maintain that, since this plant has appeared in the river, the trout have been larger and better fed, owing to the harbour it affords to water insects, &c., otherwise it certainly is no friend to the fisherman. Pur- suing our walk by the river banks, we passed on to Edington Mill, where we crossed the river, and examined the precipi- tous banks for specimens of petrified moss. The process of petrifaction, constantly proceeding, may be thus described. The water charged with calcareous matter, percolates through the mosses fringing the rocks. The mosses acting as a filter, retains the calcareous particles, and ultimately becomes a solid mass. ‘This is so perfectly performed, that a botanist by ex- amining the petrifaction, can identify the species of moss, so petrified. It is found that Hypnum commutatum is the most common variety so consolidated. The specimens of this fine Anniversary Address. 165 moss, to be found here, are remarkably beautiful, both as to colour and luxuriance and—if endowed with “a keen crypto- gamic eye”—the fructification, which is rare, may occasionally be detected, by the patient observer. The only other plant worthy of botanical notice seen in our walk, was the Vicia sylvatica, not yet in flower, which hung in festoons over the precipitous rocks at Edington Mill. This is one of the finest of our native plants, and Sir W. Scott writes describing its beauties— Its pale and azure pencilled flower Should canopy Titania’s bower.’ “Several excellent sections of the Tuedian or lower carbo- niferous group of rocks were examined, especially the sand- stone quarry at Edington Mill which contains plants, ento- mostraca and fish; and the bold cliff below Hutton Hall where beds of sandstone, marly limestone, and shales with veins of selenite (or crystallized sulphate of lime) furnish a good type of this group of rocks. The Rev. J. D. Clark gathered the Carpinus betulus, or Hornbeam, in the White Hall woods, where, however, it has been introduced by planting. A few beetles were taken by Mr. Wm. Boyd, viz., Clivina collaris, Byrrhus fasciates, Cryptohypnus quadripustulatus, Mecinus semicylindricus and Quedius ruficollis. After dinner he also showed to the club a good collection of Beetles from Hetton ; and several specimens of Acmea testudinalis found by him at Spittal, near Berwick. Two excellent papers were read and listened to with great interest ; one from Mr. John Stuart, F.A.S., Edinburgh, on Chirnside, and the other on Hutton Hall, by Dr. Stuart. The Rev. Mr. Green, of Wooler, and Dr. Alexander, of Wooler, were elected members; and the Rev. Wm. Dodd, of Chillingham, Mr. Robert Douglas, of Berwick, and Dr. M‘Watt, of Dunse, were proposed. This the first meeting of the year was felt by all to have been pleasant and instructive; the day was favourable, the scenery passed through was beautiful, and the several objects visited gave rise to agreeable conversation and discussion.” Lu 166 Anniversary Address. Ellamford and Abbey St. Bathans, June 28th, 1860. At this gathering I was able to bear a part and to enjoy a long drive and subsequently a walk through a country al- together new to me. The afternoon, however, was very showery, though it ultimately cleared up and left us all in cheerful mood, rewarding our perseverence by the most beau- tiful lights of a declining sun over the fine landscape which lay before us as we returned homeward to dinner at Dunse. Of that social repast I was very much concerned not to be able to take my share, nor to be forthcoming in my official capacity, being obliged like my friend Mr. Dickson to take some refreshment an hour earlier, in order to be able to catch the train for Newcastle, on account of business quite beyond my control. To the Secretary and to Mr. Langlands the club owes the following valuable memorials of the day’s proceedings :— “‘Ellamford being situated among the Lammermuir Hills at some distance from the railway, it was found necessary to alter our ordinary arrangement, to enable the club within a limited time to examine the district selected for the June meeting. Accordingly it was agreed that the rendezvous for breakfast should be Ellamford, but for dinner, Dunse. Not- withstanding the difficulty of reaching the place of meeting and the threatening state of the weather, there was a fair muster of members at Dunse on the 28th of June. Some, indeed, had arrived on the previous day, that they might be ready for an early start for Ellamford ; and some too, in con- sequence of there being no later train from Dunse than that which leaves at 5 p.m., remained there till the following day. There were present—the President, Messrs. Embleton, Langlands, Home, Dickson, Pat. Dickson, Turnbull, F. R. Wilson, Stevenson, Watson, Douglas, Macbeath, Sanderson, Tate, and Dr. M‘Watt; and as visitors, the Rev. Mr. David- son of Abbey St. Bathans, and Mr. Peat of Dunse. Only five of the members, Mr. Embleton, Mr. Stevenson, My. Turnbull, Mr. Langlands, and Mr. Wilson ventured as far as Ellamford. Most of them, however, visited Abbey St. Bathans and Edins Hall. Mr, Langlands has furnished the Annwersary Address. 167 following notes of this route. ‘There is scarcely anything left at Abbey St. Bathans of the ancient nunnery. Some years ago a part of a doorway was to be seen within the burial ground, but all vestiges of it have been removed. A small window still remains in the eastern gable of the Kirk. It has been partly walled up to hold a common window frame, above which two circular head- ings may be seen; these have rested in the centre on a shaft by which the window has been divided. Above them and between them, there has been a circular opening which is now filled up by masonry, and which has narrowly escaped being made use of as a passage for the flue of the stove inside the. - kirk. The wall is very thick and much splayed, evidently showing that it has formed the ens¢de of the window, the present kirk having been erected against the outside of the wall. ‘Underneath the seat of one of the pews, close to the pulpit, there is a carved monumental stone on which is represented a recumbent female figure, the head-dress indicating that she had been an Abbess or Nun. It was found built into the north wall of the kirk, and was removed to its present position a few years ago, where it is entirely safe from damage, but cannot be seen. A drawing of it might-very properly accom- pany our transactions, for the sake of preserving and making known an illustration of ancient dress. ‘Edins Hall, which is about a mile from Abbey St. Bathans, on the north-east side of Cockburn’s Law, has been accurately described in the transactions of the club for 1850, by the late Mr. James Turnbull. It is a very interesting place, and evi- dently of very remote antiquity, if not one of the most ancient edifices in the kingdom, and probably belongs to the same ¢ge as the numerous camps which are found throughout this district. It is very similar and bears a strong resemblance to the burghs of Orkney and Shetland, as may be seen by a comparison of the ground plan with those of the burghs, which are contained in Barry’s Orkney and Hibbert’s Shetland. It is reasonable therefore to assume, that its antiquity is very much higher than that which popular tradition has assigned 168 Anniversary Address. to it, as a palace of King Edwin, who reigned in Northum- berland in 617 to 633. The dilapidations and decay of this singular edifice, which Mr. Turnbull lamented ten years ago, still goes on, and have obliterated some of the distinctive features, which were then easily discernible. Is it not possible that something might be done to preserve it from further injury ¢ ‘Our party proceeded to Dunse by the banks of the Whit- adder ; the enjoyment of the beautiful scenery being greatly enhanced by the opportunity afforded for studying the inter- esting sections of the geology of the district, under the in- structive guidance of Mr. Stevenson. The sections about Cockburn Mill, where the junction of the silurian and old red sandstone series is to be seen, and the green stone dyke cross- ing the river above the Mill, are especially interesting. We hope that Mr. Stevenson will, ere long, favour us with a paper on the geology of Berwickshire, a district which he has so thoroughly examined.’ “Though I had reached Dunse on the preceding evening I was scared by the weather from accompanying Mr. Stevenson to Ellamford, and I contented myself with a solitary ramble up the Whitadder, commencing my examination of the rocks a little above Broomhouse. A considerable time I spent on a bold section at Cannebs, where I found Modiole, Entomos- traca and Fish, characteristic of the Tuedian or lower group of carboniferous rocks, which extend up the river as far as Preston Bridge. Afterwards, I visited the old red sandstone of Preston Haugh, where Mr. Stevenson discovered Holopty- chius Nobilissimus, a characteristic fish of the old red sand- stone, and I thence proceeded to Cockburn Mill where there are interesting junctions of the greywacke and old red sand- stone, as well as intruded igneous rocks. No plants, save common species, were observed ; but the Geranium pratense attracted attention as it grew in great beauty and profusion on the banks of the river. Several members in the evening visited Dunse Castle, and strolled over the beautiful grounds in the midst of which it is placed, and admired especially the noble avenue of Lime Annwersary Address. 169 trees. Near to the castle is the Hen-poo, a fine sheet of water, and while observing the Anacharis Alsinastrum grow- ing there in abundance, they had a vivid reminiscence of the founder of the club, the late Dr. Johnston, for it was in this pool or lough that, in 1842, he first discovered this plant. A visit also was paid to Dunse Law, a round hill about 700 feet above the sea level, overlooking the town and com- manding an extensive view over Berwickshire and into Nor- thumberland. It has been formed by the protrusion of basalt through the old red sandstone. The summit is a plain of about 30 acres in extent; and here are the remains of the Covenanter’s camp which was occupied by a Scottish army ‘under Lesley, in 1640; but other and older defensive remains are traceable, which indicate that the hill has been crested by a fortlet, the work of the early inhabitants of the district. The scattered parties were re-united when the dinner hour—six o’clock in the evening—arrived. After dinner, the members proposed at last meeting were elected, and the Rey. John Brook of Houghton Shiffnal, Mr. Geo. Peat of Dunse, and Mr. Wm. Kell of Gateshead, were severally proposed and seconded. An able and elaborate paper was read by Mr. Turnbull on Abbey St. Bathans; and some notes on the distribution of Acmea testudinalis by Mr. Tate.” I will only add that, in my opinion the club might venture without any risk of intruding disagreeably or unwarrantably upon the territorial feelings of a proprietor, to request Mr. Langlands in the name of the club, and as its recent president, to write to the owner of the estate on which Edins Hall is situated, to apprize him that dilapidations of which he is probably not aware are going on, by which that most precious relic of ancient native masonry and design, perfectly unique in this part of Britain, is in great danger of being irretrievably impaired. I cannot entertain a doubt that such a representa- tion conveyed in terms such as our late President would not fail to employ, would be favourably received by any gentleman so appealed to, and that measures would be taken to surround the structure with some description of fence of an appropriate 170 Anniversary Address. and efficient character. Nothing but the necessity of reaching Newcastle that night, would have prevented me from accom- panying Mr. Langlands to examine this, the great attraction within our beat. Ford Meeting, July 26th, 1860. We now come to the memoranda of a charming day’s oc- cupation, in a country of great natural fertility, and of a con- formation so simple yet so grand and imposing, that well it merits overhead a warm summer’s sky such as we then enjoyed, diversified by bold masses of cloud, throwing their occasional shadows over portions of the noble valley, or giving new character every half-hour to the long wave-like sweeps of old Cheviot and his kindred heights of porphyry. These hills have their own’ peculiar charm as much as any under the sun, and to those whose infancy has been passed within sight of them, their simple but severe and decided outline, is never regarded without mingled love and veneration, from however great a distance. As I am about to draw no less largely upon the Secretary than heretofore, in regard to our peregri- nations after leaving the hospitable breakfast table, and as I have received from Mr. Frederick Wilson a valuable account of Ford Castle, of the Church of Ford, and of the mortuary Church at Etal, as also an instructive paper embracing the same and other objects from Mr. Dickson, I feel that some- thing by way of original contribution ought to be offered by myself. Whilst we are contemplating Cheviot from so advan- tageous a position as this presented by Ford, I will venture to lay before the club some inquiries into the probable ety- mology of a name so familiar to us. If we proceed in such an inquiry cautiously and inductively, after the examples of Camden and George Chalmers, when engaged in similar re- searches, we shall perhaps not go very far astray. It is a disadvantage that no similar word occurs on either side of the border in connection with our moorland summits ; for there is no greater aid in etymology than the light which words of similar character often throw upon each other. To make the best, then, of a difficult and apparently isola- ted question, let us approach old Cheviot with all diffidence, Anniversary Address. t71 and see whether he will speak for himself in any intelligible way, if we question him in the best Cambro-British we can muster. Let us take as our guide, Owen Pugh, the learned author of a very copious Welsh lexicon and thesaurus ; con- sulting also Zeuge, the eminent German elucidator of the Celtic tongues, in his great work the ‘ Grammatica Celtica.”’ Yet before any one can make use of even the best philological works for a purpose of this kind, his ear must have some familiarity with the language, and he should have some prac- tical notion of its character drawn from his own experience. All I can say is that, having at an early period of life taken considerable pains to understand the principles of the Welsh language, and to be able to pronounce it with tolerable accu- racy, I was in a short time so much captivated by the won- derful beauty of its structure and the inherent poetry of its composite expression descriptive of natural objects, that during a tour in North Wales, the nomenclature of the natural fea- tures of the country gave me, if possible, more delight than its charming mountain scenery. With these moderate means of forming a correct judgement, let me come to close quarters with Cheviot. In the first place, then, is there any element in Cambrian nomenclature which can throw light upon the name? For it was undoubtedly imposed upon our border mountain by a Cymro-British race of men, speaking a language not essen- tially differing from that now heard in the principality, as exhibited in its older written forms. Even as we enter within that most interesting territory by way of the vale of Langollen, there rises before us a grand mountain range called Chefn Uchaf. Now Chefn signifies a ridge, and Uchaf lofty. If we turn to Owen Pugh in his admirable thesaurus of the language, we find “‘ Chefn, subst. masc., plural Chefnaw; the back, the upper side, a ridge: as Cefn a dir, a ridge of land ; a long extended mountain.” In South Wales again, with a slight dialectic difference of spelling, we find that the remains of Llewellyn lie in the earth at Cefn y bedd, the “ridge of the grave;” his body having been carried to higher ground from Cuum Llewellyn, 172 Anniwersary Address. where he was slain, the comb or vale of Llewellyn. It must here be noted that the c in Welsh though properly having the force of £, yet before e is apt to slide into its softer sound of ch English; moreover that f has the power of our English v, unless when doubled. Chefn therefore readily becomes Cheven. The plural formation is Chefnau, pro- nounced nearly Cevnai, ridges. I do not at all apprehend that this etymology of the first syllable of Cheviot will be rejected by any Celtic scholar, although I have not the slightest pretension to such a title. My fear is only, that in one or other of the many antiquarian or topographical works and treatises that are unknown to me, the same etymon may have been much better demonstrated, so that I may be wasting the hearer’s or reader’s time. What concerns us next, is to give, if we can, any satisfactory account of the concluding syllable, of. It is hardly necessary to mention that in Celtic composite words or names, it is the latter member which modifies or describes the former. Thus, in Welsh, Denas is castle and Bran is crow or daw, and Dinas Bran, (castle-crow,) cor- responds to crow-castle in English. Moel is mountain, hebog hawk; and Moel Hebog is the appellation of one of the highest hills in the country. Crib, a crest-like summit ; Crib goch, Redcliff. Such being the well-known character of British descriptive names, examples of which might be mul- tiplied to a great extent, we have to consider whether there is any noun or adjective in the copious Cambro-British vocabulary which might naturally suggest itself as descriptive of our Northumbrian heights, when brought into composition with Cefn. That which I am about to mention is only from conjecture, and may be set aside in case of a better claim being presented for another, but meanwhile I think there is some likelihood that od, snow, may have been the element in ques- tion. As this is a point which Celtic scholars may hereafter reduce almost to certainty on evidence not now forthcoming, it is right to mention that another element had presented it- self to my mind previously, which on account of the various Saxon English names of localities among the Cheviots, derived Anniversary Address. 173 from the Red-deer, ought not to be left out of consideration. This word is hydd, (pronounced hudth,) the Hart or Red- deer; from which native species we have the well-known designations of Hartlaw, Hartside, Hindhope, Deer-bush-hill, Darden, &c. To show the honour in which it was held among our British ancestors, I will venture to insert the following beautiful ancient proverbs from Owen Pugh. *< Addug yr hydd i’r maes mawr:” “The longing of the Hart is for the open wild.” *“‘ Nid boneddig ond hydd.” “‘ Nothing is so noble as the Hart.” But leaving this word in the background, there does seem to me to be a reasonable presumption that “ Cheviot,” in the old British tongue, was equivalent to “‘Snow-fell,”’ or “Snow- fells.” — Let us resume the Secretary’s notes. “Heavy and long-continued rains had fallen during the month of July, but fortunately the club enjoyed a rainless and pleasant day, when they met at Ford on the 26th of that month. A large party assembled at breakfast, and partook of the hospitality of the Rev. Thos. Knight, one of the oldest members, who was president of the club in 1839. A good meeting might have been expected, as the district around abounds in objects of interest; there are the quarries and pits with their fossils, illustrating the lower beds of the mountain limestone, and there are the sections down the Till belonging to the Tuedian group of the carboniferous system ; the Horse Bog yields the Myrica Gale and other plants; the camps on Broomridge and other hills, and the barrows near to them give memorials of the earlier inhabitants of the district ; there is the inscribed rock at Rowting Linn with its unsolved mystery ; and there are the castles and churches of Ford and Etal, and the battle-field of Flodden so fatal, in 1514, to Scotland. The variety of objects courting examination caused the club to divide itself into two parties. One party, led by Mr. Wm. Boyd, took the route to Rowting Linn, where the Osmunda regalis was discovered by the late M 174 Anmversary Address. Mr. Mitchell, one of the members; but not a single plant could be seen by the party; and it is to be regretted, that this noble fern appears to be entirely extirpated in this pic- turesque locality. The ruthless manner in which plant- fanciers, and even some botanists pounce upon rare plants, especially ferns, tends to destroy some of our choicest floral treasures. From this cause, the Asplenium septentrionale is becoming scarce on Kyloe Craggs; indeed most of the acces- sible specimens have been carried off; fortunately, however, several plants remain in the higher cliffs of this basaltic range. Botanists imbued with proper feeling, rather than enrich their Herbariums at the risk of extirpating rare plants, will leave them ‘ to bloom on their ain native braes.’ The party saw the waterfall to advantage, for the burn, swollen with the late rains, poured over the cliff, in an un- broken sheet, into the Linn below. After viewing the mys- terious written rock they wended their way back to Ford, but failed to notice any plants or animals, but what are common. The Rev. J. Baird, however, on his way to the meeting dis- covered Silene noctiflora, in great abundance, in the sandy fields through which the road passes between the Red Scaur Bridge and the Fentons. A larger party, under the guidance of the Rev. Delaval Knight, proceeded to Ford Church and Castle and thence to Etal. After leaving Etal Castle, the party were ferried across the Till and strolled onward to Brankston, enjoying the fine- ness of the day and beguiling the time by keen, though friendly, discussions on Darwin’s new work on the origin of species, on the succession of rocks along the borders, on the primeval relics of man, and on the wonderful history of the formation of coal. The tenor of our thoughts was changed on our arrival at Brankston, where we were hospitably enter- tained by the Rev. Robert Jones, from whom we received full and accurate information respecting the site of the battle of Flodden. Mr. Jones now became our guide. For a short time we turned aside to see the little church of Brankston, a greater portion of which was not long ago rebuilt. Most of Annwersary Address. 175 our northern churches, in secluded places, contain relics of Norman and early Gothic architecture; and here we found the pointed chancel arch with its flat mouldings, the cushioned capitals, and zigzag or flat toothed ornaments, carrying us back to the transitional period when the massive Norman was passing into the lighter early English style. The party thence proceeded across Brankston ridge to Flodden Hill, and as we went along Mr. Jones pointed out the camp of the Scottish army, the route of the English army under Surrey, and the ground whereon the great struggle took place which decided the fate of the day. On the summit _of the hill we found rampiers and ditches of an ancient Celtic camp, so that the Scots occupied ground, which had long before been fortified by another race. From Flodden Hill the party hastened back to Ford in time for dinner, at which there were present—the President, Messrs. Langlands, Home, Dickson, M. Culley, Geo. Culley, F. R. Wilson, Wm. Boyd, Rea, Dand, Clay, Macbeath, Tate, the Rev. J. Dixon Clark, Thomas Knight, Delaval Knight, Green, John Baird, F. Simpson, W. Dodd; and as visitors, the Rev. Robert Jones, Mr. Jones, Mr. Carr, and Mr. Lang- lands. } After dinner, the members proposed at last meeting were elected, and Mr. Thomas Brodie of Ford, the Rev. John Irwin of Berwick, and Mr. John Liddell were respectively proposed and seconded. Two papers were read, one from Mr. Embleton containing additions to the Zoology of Berwickshire, the other by the President on the long heel of the lark. The Rev. Robert Jones of Brankston, was also elected a member; and, at the request of the club we hope to be favoured, by him, with a paper on the battle of Flodden Field. Beautiful drawings of Saxon and Norman remains at Nor- ham, executed by Mr. Grete, one of our members, were pre- sented to the club by Mr. Home, and it was agreed they should be lithographed for our transactions.” Mr. F. R. Wilson’s notes :— “The parishes of Ford and Etal are especially rich in an 176 Annwersary Address. cient and modern works of architectural interest. They are moreover remarkable for the fate they shared before the mem- orable battle of Flodden, when King James IV. of Scotland laid siege to their castles and reduced them to ruins. Ford Castle, of which but three strong towers were left standing, was subsequently rebuilt and re-inhabited ; but the Castle at Etal was then deserted and has remained so ever since. Odinel de Ford, held Ford with other estates, as one knight’s fee under the barony of Muschamp, in the reign of Hen. III. His daughter Mary married William Heron, Baron of Hades- don, whose grandson, Sir William Heron obtained a license to crenelate Ford in 1339. The castle was still in the posses- sion of the Heron Family when besieged and burnt by the Scottish King. Repairs must have been set on foot 1mme- diately after this catastrophe, for in a survey made in 1542, Ford is described as being partially restored. A century since, the present structure was erected, with all the faults of style the artists of that period perpetrated. Some of these, as for instance, the portcullis midway down the picture gallery, have been removed; but enough remains to show that the decorations were of an identical character to those lately dis- placed at Alnwick Castle. Two of the ancient towers men- tioned as having survived the conflagration have been incor- porated with the modern building. At the summit of one of them is a chamber traditionally supposed to have been occu- pied by King James on the eve preceding the fatal fight. When we arrive at Ford, first we come upon the church, then the castle, and then the village. The whole scene is so pleasant to behold and so suggestive to think about, that we do not know which to admire most. The village so neatly trimmed, so green with its turf banks, so cheerful with its red pantiled cottages, might be in the centre of a gentleman’s park instead of on the highway, all is in such careful order. The pretty post-office almost hid with climbing roses and evergreens, is at the end of the village ; and on the day of the club meeting a most commodious school-house was in progress of erection to complete the picturesqueness of the place. Time has dealt tenderly with Ford Church, and modern Annwersary Address. wire days have used it well. The unusual-shaped gabled bell turret, with open arches for three bells, looks massy and grey over the tree tops, and tells us solemnly, “I’ve seen five hundred years pass by.” Some parts of the edifice are not so ancient, but the additions have been made so judiciously that we cannot but approve and admire. There are north and south aisles to the nave, and an unusually long and fine chancel. The fenestration is beautifully managed ; slender lancet windows light the aisles and west end of nave, all filled with memorial stained glass; while a large window of the decorated period of gothic art lights the east end. A most refined taste has presided over all the arrangements, which, either in detail or as a whole, are worthy of all praise. A mosaic reredos and the tesselated pavement of the chancel are both subsidiary in colour to the glowing hues of the stained glass; and the low-backed seats, pulpit, lectern furnished with its costly brass bound book of gospels, all unite in pro- ducing one uniform tone of fitness through the edifice. At the east end of the south aisle is a stone-coped tomb covering the remains of the late Lord Frederick Fitzclarence ; and a white silk pall embroidered with a red cross covers the resting place of his daughter the late Miss Augusta Fitzclarence. The remains of the Castle at Etal are considerable and of great archeological interest. The great entrance-gateway appears to have been of the same defensive form as the bar- bacan existing at Alnwick Castle. An outer drawbridge conducted to an archway with a portcullis entering into a small open court-yard or trap surrounded by walls on four sides, from the top of which the garrison could assault the enemy. ‘This portion of the barbacan at Etal is demolished ; the inner gateway-tower, however, remains, and though roof- less and floorless is in good preservation. This part differs from the entrance-towers of Alnwick Castle, in having had a very handsome chamber immediately above the groined arch- way lighted by handsome mullioned and traceried windows : one of these exists in the west wall and a similar one in the east wall, together with a carved armorial panel. The ruins of a colossal kind of keep tower exist, covered 178 Annwersary Address. with ivy, on the verge of a steep bank overlooking the river Till, in another part of the grounds north-west of the barba- can. This tower has been strongly groined on the ground- floor and has had several stories of rooms above. The fire- places pleasantly recessed, and traceried windows, and tur- reted staircases are remaining, and huge oak beams traversing not only the breadth of the rooms but passing superfluously through the whole of the very thick walls are still ev sctw, denoting the exact positions of the floors; and the whole of the arrangements are sufficiently complete and perfect to show that this portion of the castle has been occupied by no mean personages. At present whole colonies of pigeons and jack- daws, together with ivy and climbing boys combine most effectually to destroy these very interesting and instructive remains. Etal was held by Robert de Manners as half a knight’s fee, under the barony of Muschamp in the 13th of Hen. II., and continued to be so for some generations, by his descendants. Sir Robert Manners obtained a license to crenelate Etal in 1341 from Edward ITI. Etal village is one wide street of thatched cottages, with well stocked gardens before each house, and climbing plants creeping up most of them and festooning under the eaves. The castle is situated at one end of the village: the hall at the other. The new chapel is built in the grounds of the hall in sight of the village. Itis a mortuary chapel; and con- sists of a nave with south aisle and a chancel. The nave is fitted up with oaken benches for the accommodation of the villagers, while the aisle has been reserved for the use of the founder—Lady Frederick Fitzclarence. The chancel and sanctuary are richly decorated with gold and colour. The east end of the mortuary aisle is enriched with a circular window in the gable, filled with stained glass, executed by Messrs. Clayton & Bell of London, which casts rich tints upon the gaping vaults below. Seats in the porch invite the weary to rest before entering the sacred structure, and inner doors of light brass wire admit of the outer doors being left open for a free circulation of air without danger of desecration.” Annwersary Address. 179 Mr. Wm. Dickson’s notes :— “ Other parties having described the battle-field of Flodden, where ‘‘ Shivered was fair Scotia’s spear And shattered was her shield,” Mr. Knight, Mr. Baird, and myself confined our walk to a visit to Etal. The most attractive object is the Mortuary Chapel, a work of affection and piety. The Right Hon. The Lady Augusta Fitzclarence of Ktal and Clarencedale, widow of the late Right Hon. Lord Fred- erick Fitzclarence, in the year 1859, built and endowed for the accommodation of a portion of the inhabitants of the parish of Ford, a chapel situate in the manor of Etal, in memory of her late husband and their only child, and which has been completed and consecrated by the name of “ The Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary.” The patronage is vested in Lady Augusta and her heirs. The chapel is about 80 feet long and seated for 80 persons, of which 40 are free. There is a south chapel adjoining the principal one, and which, in fact, forms part of it. The architecture both within and without is remarkable for its beauty and strict attention to details, the inside is rich, the walls smooth as velvet, and the roof radiant with gold and colours. This little chapel is situate near the public highway on the right hand side of the drive leading from the village to the hall. The architect was William Rutherford of Adam Street, Adelphi, London. After taking leave of the chapel, we next proceeded a short way along the road northwards, and cross- ing a rich grassy pasture, towards the river Till, we entered the long drive made by the late Lord Frederick Fitzclarence along its banks, cut out of the slopes and through the wood- land glades. The drive is continued a long way down the river, by the romantic rocks of Tipthoe and Tindal House, now called Clarence Dale. As you enter the woods, and between the drive and the river, is the site of St. Mary’s Chantry or Chapel. The foun- dations lie exposed, so that the site is well developed. There 180 Annwersary Address. are foot paths leading to it, and piety has placed a stone cross in the moss-grown chancel. Close adjoining to it, on the outside of the building, is a cool and copious spring called St. Mary’s Well, and known by that name to the inhabitants long before these ruins were disinterred. Among those ancient records, the returns to the writs of ad guod damnun, I am told, that this foundation is mentioned as the chantry of St. Mary, and that the jurors say that it would not be to the damage of our Lord the King, or any of his subjects if this chantry was to be founded. It has been of small dimensions—judging by the eye about 15ft. by 10ft. It is a curious place to fix upon, and I can hardly imagine it would have been so placed, unless to commemorate the spot where some celebrated warrior died, or where some devotee had escaped death, probably a watery grave, in the deep part of the river adjoining, called the pool; upon this, however, it is needless to speculate. From thence we proceeded a little way along the walk through the woods by the side of the river, above the pool, admiring its sylvan beauties at every step. Our time was too limited to extend our walk to Tindal House and Tipthoe, where the scenery consists of high crags and scaurs ; we returned by the river side and Etal Mill and so on to the old ruinous castle of Etal. The present state of the building shews it to have been a place of some importance in olden Border warfare. The entrance to the castle is nearly entire, with its port- cullis and warder’s lodges on each side, and above the gate- way are the arms of “ Manners”’ on a stone shield with crest above it. The castle wall is entire along the south side; on the west side the wall is entirely removed, but the keep itself, on the north-west angle shews the height and accommodation it contained. The vault under the surface-level of the ground consisted of a vault with ribbed arch-roof; above have been four sets of floors, each now in their decay showing doorways, fire-places, hobs where beams have been inserted to support each floor, and there has been access to them by a circular stair, the ruins of which still exist. This interesting erection wants a little underbuilding to prevent the whole toppling down some day, and perhaps the present noble owner would Anniversary Address. 181 give directions. From the donjon-keep along the north and east sides as far as the entrance before-mentioned, the walls are gone, and the smooth cropped grass shews the castle-green. Perhaps hereafter, the debris of the old walls under this turf may be removed and the turf relaid, as has been done at Warkworth with good effect. This castle was built by Robert de Manners in the 15th year of King Edward III., as appears by the patent rolls, part 1. m. 15.” I regret that none of the excursions of the year have taken us within reach of Beanley and Titlington Hill. Had they done so, I would have brought under observation some in- ‘stances of a very remarkable conformation of the moorland surface on certain declivities. The subsoil, consisting for the most part of drift, has been deeply furrowed into a series of nearly parallel channels, accompanied, perhaps, by some slight upgathering of the intervening ridges or balks. These last are often upon the scale of the old hedgemounds of the north of England, so that a man standing in the channel or furrow cannot see over the balks on either side of him; and some- times this scale is much exceeded. The whole is obviously the work of some ancient natural agency well worthy of our study. The general course of this deep disturbance of the subsoil is down the slope of the hill, but subject to curvatures. Although something is to be learnt from observing the manner in which our deeper deposits of peat are apt to open in fissures, which occasionally show a similar sort of parallel- ism; and more still from the small rain-channels formed upon the newly-made slopes of a railway-cutting ; still objections, which appear insuperable, stand in the way, if we attempt to account for the phenomena in question, on the sole hypothesis of an extensive ancient development of peat; and especially, there is often no considerable thickness of vegetable soil, but rather a scantiness. Still less can rain, however abundant, have been the cause, through the formation of rain-channels in sinuous parallelism, is instructive. More so still are the small channels made on a steep slope of the sea-sands, when Mm 182 Anniversary Address. the tide is ebbing, and the water left in a bank of shingle just above the slope, is finding its way out, by percolating through the sand. Here we have an accumulation above, of water sufficient to work an effect which mere rain from heaven could not accomplish. I hope hereafter to have opportunities of putting the ques- tion to abler investigators than myself, whether an accumu- lation was not necessary on the lands above, before water, flowing down the slope, could produce such effects as we wit- ness. in the furrowing of various hill sides. But the confor- mation of the moorlands precludes all idea of a lake. To the best of my judgment we are irresistibly led to the hypothesis of deep snow-fields, on the tablelands and heights immediately over the localities where the appearances are found; and of heavy snow-drifts, in places, which continued to discharge water copiously through long periods in summer ; and all this pointing, probably, to a subarctic climate. The theory of morains is by no means applicable here. Provision- ally, I would venture to call these excavations Thaw-furrows. Commencing gradually and upon a minute scale at first, all the features rapidly enlarge as they descend to a certain point, when they again diminish, either in magnitude or in regu- larity, or both; until they disappear on the lower skirts of the hill, or at its bottom. From the aspect of the northerly slope of Simonside Hill, above Tosson, as seen from Snitter and Thropton, I believe there must be a very remarkable example of Thaw-furrows there. I have, indeed, for five or six years past, been in the habit of pointing out these striking appearances, nearer home, to my friends, and of trying to understand them. Nay, often have I spoken of reading some notices upon them before our club. So long ago as the year 1830, certain deep parallel channels in the subsoil, in the upper part of Ravensworth Wood, struck me, covered as they were by trees, as being very singular and worthy of examination. They are on lofty ground, on the northern declivity of the fell near Pennyfine, with its extensive table-land, probably 700 feet above the sea. The plough and Anmversary Address. 183 pick-axe must have erased thousands of these channels on the skirts of all our higher valleys; let us study those where the heather, bent, and bracken have never been disturbed, while they yet remain to us. Gentlemen, our club has added eleven members to its list since the last anniversary address was delivered; and we cannot wish better to those young members than that they may derive the pure and exhilarating refreshment of mind and body, which we have done, from the study of God’s works in an inquiring but humble spirit; and from contemplating the remotely ancient as well as the medizval works of the races of men who have peopled and enjoyed this fair and fertile land before us. The piety of some, and the patriotism of the rudest, may afford us useful lessons even now, if we do but read them. One painful duty remains to be fulfilled by the President of the year, and one that I well know has been anticipated by the feelings and expectation of every member present. We have lately lost one of the oldest members of our circle, Mr. John Donaldson Selby, a member whom we all esteemed and valued, and to whom we have been indebted for the active support so important to such a society as ours. In our Secretary’s own words, “Mr. Donaldson Selby was elected one of our members so long ago as May 6, 1835; he was President in 1848, when he gave the usual address ; he con- tributed papers on meteorology in 1847 and 1848, and another on ancient buildings and on Saxon coins discovered on Holy Island in 1845.” ‘Thus, indeed, did our deceased and lamented friend stand true, even in his connection with our society, to the general character of his life-—that of a man always use- fully and conscientiously employed and always in earnest. 184 CHIRNSIDE. By Joun Stuart, F.S.A., Edinburgh. Before the great start which agricultural improvement took in the Lothians in the early part of last century, there re- mained many evidences of early British possession which are not now to be seen. Of these the sepulchral cairns which seem to have been numerous in this district may be referred. to. In the end of last century the vestige remained of a large cairn, which had stood on the eastern and highest summit of the hill upon the side of which the village of Chirnside stands, and two cairns were placed on Edington Hill, which, with a small interval, is a continuation of the same ridge. From one of these cairns a cist was taken and removed to a gentleman’s place in the neighbourhood. It is recorded that near these cairns there might have been seen, till within the last 40 or 50 years, the remains of a British encampment. From the most conspicuous cairn referred to, it is said that the parish takes its name. But, however this may be, we find very early notices of the district among the Coldingham char- ters, printed by Dr. Raine in the appendix of his valuable work on the history of North Durham. Under the name of a “‘mansio,” Chirnside was given by King Edgar to the monks of Durham, and this suggests the thought that parishes had not as yet become one of the fixed institutions of Scotland, and also some of the circumstances from which these divisions took their origin. In the time of Bede, it is plain that the christianizing of the country was left mostly to the hands of the clergy in monasteries, who scattered themselves over the country, in various circuits, to perform the offices of religion, but returned to the monastery as head quarters. Still, the want of a permanent centre in the remote districts must have been severely felt, and in Bede’s letter to Archbishop Egbert he urges him to ordain a number of priests who should visit every village preaching the word of God, consecrating the heavenly mysteries and administering the sacrament of baptism as often as possible. ‘This arrangement would naturally soon be developed into a system of settled clergy, with certain dis- tricts allotted to their charge, and it appears from the enact- ments of a provincial council held in 747, that the collegiate and conventual bodies had been induced to erect on their lands churches which were served by priests under the superiors of those bodies, and that moreover the lands of the lay proprietors Mr. Stuart on Chirnside. 185 had been divided into districts by the bishops, and committed by them to the pastoral care of certain priests*. It was not long before the existence of a church on the lands of a pro- prietor became a necessary qualification for elevation to the rank of thanet. The rights which ensued on the apportion- ment of districts or parishes to a separate priest, were soon recognized and enforced, for we find among the Anglo-Saxon Ecclesiastical Institutes an injunction, that no mass priest should entice any man from the parish of another church to his church, nor instruct any one from another priest’s district to attend his church, and give him their tithe and the dues which they ought to give to the othert. In Ireland the mon- astic system prevailed till the twelfth century, when, for the first time, the division of the country into ecclesiastical districts ‘took place. It is probable that the monastic system prevailed longer in Scotland than it did in England. We find, however, cases of parochial arrangements in the time of David I., as in that of Eccles where the rights of the parish church in the matter of teinds and its cemetery are recognized.|| An instructive example of the origin of a parish is afforded by a deed of Thor Longus, one of the followers of King Edgar, from whom he had received Ednaham—a desert. Which desert, he goes on to say, he had cultivated and peopled, and raised a church from the foundation in honour of St. Cuthbert, and which church with one carrucate of land he now bestows on the monks of St. Cuthbert§. This accounts for the parish of Ednam in Roxburghshire, which probably coincides in ex- tent with the land originally granted by King Edgar to Thor Longus. The names of several parishes in Scotland are derived from the early holders of the manors. Thus, Wiston in Lanark- shire is the town of Wice or Withice, whose grant to the monks of Kelso of the church of his town or manor was confirmed by King Malcolm the maiden, in 1159. The adjoining parish of Symington is the town of Simon Locchard, and “the church of Symon Loccard’s town” was also confirmed to the monks of Kelso by the same monarch between the years 1189 and 1199, Thankerton is the town of Thomas Tancard, as Coving- ton probably is the “ villa Colbani’’—one of the followers of St. David. * Lingard’s Hist. and Antiquities of the Anglo Saxon Church, Vol. I. p.p. 157-8. London, 1845. + Ib. p. 159. { Thorpe’s Ancient Laws and Institutes of England, Vol. II. p. 411. || Acts of the Parliaments of Scotland, Vol. I. p. 47. § North Durham Appendix, p. 38. 186 Mr. Stuart on Chirnside, In the same way in England, we read in “ Notices of the Domesday Book for Wiltshire’ that “some of the parishes of the country of which there are more than one of the same name, owe their distinctive appellation to the proprietor of the manor recorded in the Domesday Book; thus there are two parishes of Fonthill, the one known as Fonthill Bishops, and the other Fonthill Giffards. Now in Domesday we have two manors of the same name, one of which was held by the Bishop of Winchester, who is still the patron of the living, and the other by Berenger Gifard. Again there are two parishes of Cannings Bishops and All-Cannings; and in the Domesday Book there are two manors called Caninge, one of which was held by the Bishop of Winchester, and the other by the nuns of Winchester.” The same writer remarks “The greater portion of the present parishes of the county derive their names from the ancient manors mentioned in Domesday ; but in several instances the manors have become divided for parochial purposes, when only one division has retained the manorial appellation, whilst in other instances several parishes comprise two or more of the ancient manors*,” and a careful examination of the Domesday Book for Hampshire and Wilt- shire, did not furnish this writer with a single mention of the word “ parish” or any expression which would lead him to suppose that such a division then existed. “The churches which are mentioned, most of which I doubt not are the pre- sent parish churches, are in Domesday spoken of as belonging to the several manors in which they were situated.” What is precisely meant by the word “ mansio” it may be difficult to determine, but it seems to denote a district with a settlement in it and to be equivalent to a manor. ‘The erec- tion of a church in the “ mansio” of Chirnside, which probably followed at no distant period after the grant of it, would soon confer parochial rights and require parochial boundaries. It has been remarked in Sir John Sinclair’s statistical account of the parish of Chirnside that, “ before the barony of Chirn- side was divided among the heritors in consequence of a decree pronounced by the Court of Session in 1740, it is to be ob- served that there were no outfield farms, excepting those be- longing to the three mills in the parish. The village, like others in the country, comprehended all the houses and cot- tages appertaining to the several proprietors, great and small. Adjacent to the mansion house of some of the farms, there was what was called the mains farms, or that of his domain * Proceedings of the Archeological Institute at Salisbury, 1849, p.p. 177-8. + Statistical Account, Vol. XIV. p. 47. Edinburgh, 1795. Mr. Stuart on Chirnside. 187 or household. Hence, as the land was in time parcelled out into several farms, so, many of them, distinguished only by their position in different quarters, are known here and in other parishes by the common designation of mainses.” This last word may be the modern rendering of the word “mansio,” so that at the date of Edgar’s grant, there may have only been one prominent and central settlement in the district contained in the grant, and from which it was designated*. Part of the ancient church may yet be traced in the present parish kirk, the western doorway of which is in the Norman style. The manor was held of the monks of Coldingham during the 12th and 13th centuries, by the Earls of Dunbar. It afterwards formed part of the Home property, but now belongs to Sir Hall. In the church is a square tablet bearing the date 1572, on which are carved the words “ Helpe the Pvr.” Like many Border churches, that of Chirnside had formerly a defensive tower erected near its west end. Its roof was vaulted, in which respect it differed from others in the district, which seem to have been thatched, till nearly the end of last century ; near the western door hang a few links of the chain to which the jougs had in old times been attached. In the ancient taxatio of the churches in the See of St. Andrews, Ecclesia de Chirnesyd is taxed at 50 merks; and in Bagimonts roll, rectoria de Chirnside is assessed at £4. In the volume printed by Dr. Raine for the Surtees’ Society, illustrative of the history of Coldingham, there are preserved some curious records of the properties of the monks of Cold- ingham, illustrative of the early social condition of this part of the country. It is entitled “ Rentale Antiquum de reddi- tibris Tenementis &c., in Scotia,” and among other rentals it preserves to us that of Fyschewike which was one of the “‘mansiones” included in the gift of King Edgar to the monks of Durham. This “mansio” was originally a parish by itself adjoining to Chirnside, but in 1614 it was united to the parish of Hutton. It has been remarked that “in this district the parishes must have been originally very small, as most of the present ones formed two, and still are by no means large either in extent or population.” I venture to give a translation of the rental of Fishwick, as very curious and suggestive of what was the condition of * This seems to agree with the statement in Sir Henry Ellis’ Dissertations on Domesday voce “mansio.” See also Ducange Glossarium voce “ mansio” quoting Bracton. t New Statistical Account, Vol. II. p. 150. Edinburgh, 1845. 188 Mr. Stuart on Chirnside. Chimside and the neighbouring country, at least of those parts of their property which were in the improving hands of the monks themselves. The chief messuage with garden and pigeon house is worth 6s. 8d. in the year. ‘There are likewise in demaine two plough- lands, whence eight oxgangs go to a ploughland, and twelve and a half acres make an oxgang, and every oxgang is worth in the year five shillings. A meadow of 24 acres can be scythed for two years but not the third, and the acre is worth 12 pence. An enclosed pasture of about 50 acres, is worth 40s. There was a mill but now there is none; if it should be restored it would be worth 7 marks in the year. Two fishings are worth in the year 13 marks; also one fishing which is called North Ford, returns yearly one mark, and is let to a tenant. The advocation of the church is not entered because it is in our own hands. There are 16 husbandi viz., William the son of Robert who holds one toft and 30 acres of land with pertinents of his moor, and returns yearly 6s. 1ld. And every one who has a ploughland, ought to plough and harrow one acre and to get food once in the day with four companions ; and he shall have three dishes, and cheese and sufficient drink ; he shall reap for two days in the week with two ............ in the day, and shall receive two ploughman’s loaves, three herrings, and cheese, and all the bonds and cottars shall have on every day when they work in the manor, one stone of cheese. All the other bonds equally hold, and equally do and receive. And all shall carry the lord’s corn, dig turf for one day, rake for one day, and every one shall carry six cart loads of turf and have food once in the day. They shall carry the lord’s food, the teinds and corn of Berewyk, and shall have two loaves. All shall wash and shear two flocks of sheep of the second year, and shall have food once, viz., every one two loaves, three herrings, and cheese. And all of them shall give suit multure, twelve of them paying for multure 3s. each, and of the other four, one three shillings and one two shillings. There are six cottars; each one holds a toft and six acres of land, of whom Robert the son of Henry returns annually for his land 12d., and mows two days in each week with one man; and he shall have food once in the day, viz., two loaves and three herrings; he shall gather the corn and have his food twice in the day, and at noon shall eat in the hall, in the time when the subject is let. But if the prior shall have the manor in his own hands, he shall have two loaves and Mr. Stuart on Hutton Hall. 189 three herrings and cheese. Also the said Robert shall dig turf for one day and have once in the day; and when the bonds carry turfs, the said Robert shall build them and have one meal in the day; he shall drive the sheep to water, and those destrained to be shorn, and have two loaves and three herrings. All the other cottars shall do the same as Robert in all points, they shall rake as the bonds and have one meal in the day. One toft with a garden belongs to the brewhouse; it is worth and returns one mark yearly. Tenants. There are there five tenants of whom each pays 12d. in the year, and digs turf one day, rakes one day, reaps four days, and when reaping has two meals in the day. William the weaver has one toft with a garden, and pays by the year, 2s., and works at the mill dam. All in the vil- lage shall work at the mill dam, and build the miller’s house at their own charges, and the Prior shall supply timber in gross, and they shall carry it. One toft with a garden lies waste, which used to pay by the year 26d.; it is now let for one year at 4d. . It is to be remembered that one fishing is let, in a place called Schipwell at the bridge of Berewyk, and returns by the year, halfa mark. The sum of the whole with the fishings is £21 6s. 4d. besides the mill. The rental of the other lands of the Prior give some varieties in the tenures, in the size and value of the oxgangs, and many suggestive particulars of the condition of the country at a very early period. A FEW NOTES ABOUT HUTTON HALL, BERWICKSHIRE. By Cuar zs Sruart, M.D. Hutton Hall is situated on the south bank of the Whitadder, about eight miles from Berwick-upon-Tweed, and one mile to the west of the village of Hutton. Perched on the top of a steep bank, with a beautiful green haugh between it and the river, the situation is very fine. The trees in the park, immediately in front, are of great age, and completely hide the old battered pile from observation till the visitor is close upon it. The view looking down the river, combines the charms of wood and water, while the beautiful banks of Whitehall N 190 Mr. Stualtt on Hutton Hall. (another old deserted house) add a richness to the landscape. After passing through the richly cultivated country around, the deserted and ruinous mansion of Hutton Hall takes the visitor by surprise, recalling to the mind the memories of the ast. The ancient tower was situated a little to the west of the present building, and, from its position, was evidently a place of great strength. The date of the newer part is 1573, as was seen till very lately over the door. The square massive tower seems to be the only part of the ancient castle not de- stroyed, and was evidently constructed to resist the hostile visits. of “ the Northumbrian prickers wild and rude.” There can be no doubt of the existence of this part of the building for at least three centuries. The newer part is in the Elizabethan style of architecture, with less of the orna- mental than we usually see in houses of the same class further south. The intricate passages, winding stairs, and conceal- ments speak of a very early period, when the arts of peace were less practised than at present, and when it was necessary to provide against the consequences of a midnight surprise, by the possession of a means of escape after the usual hostile measures had failed. It is a very difficult matter to discover much about the early history of a place like the present. I think, however, we cannot be far wrong in supposing Hutton Hall to have been, originally, the residence of the Huttons of that ilk, more than once mentioned in Nisbet’s Heraldry. They appear to have early left the county, but are still extant, and boast of their family having produced some eminent men. Dr. Thomas Hutton, Richard the third’s ambassador to the court of Brit- tany, was one; Dr. John Hutton, chief physician to William and Mary, was another; Dr. James Hutton of Slighouses, author of an ingenious treatise on the earth, and who also introduced turnip husbandry from Norfolk into Berwickshire, was a third. But whatever may have been the origin of Hutton Hall, it appears by a charter dated Ist July, 1467, and quoted by Sir Robert Douglas in his peerage of Scotland, that George Kerr of Samuelton, at that date conveyed the lands of Hutton Hall to Sir Alex. Home of that ilk, and that it subsequently be- came the property of one of the seven spears of Wedderburne, mentioned in the Lay of the Last Minstrel by Sir W. Scott, as having come to the aid of Branksome, against Belted Will Howard and Lord Dacre. The seven spears of Wedderburne were the sons of that Knight of Wedderburne who fell at My. Stuart on Hutton Hall. 191 Flodden. 1, George who shared his father’s fate; 2, David who succeeded and killed the Count de la Beauté, Warden of the Marches, commonly called Bawtie; 3, Alex. Home of Manderston; 4, John Home, who married the heiress of Black- adder of that ilk; 5, Andrew Home, Abbot of Dryburgh ; 6, Patrick Home of Broomhouse ; and 7, John Home, who mar- ried the second daughter of Blackadder of that ilk, and pos- sessed Rowanston. It seems, so far as it can be made out, that Alexander Home of Manderston, the third spear, became owner of Hutton Hall, and his arms appear in a stone over the door. Meanwhile Hutton Hall had undergone some rough treat- ment. In 1496, when James the fourth had espoused the cause of Perkin Warbeck, given that pretender the hand of the beautiful Lady Katherine Gordon, and invaded England to place Perkin on the throne, Henry VII. in retaliation sent the Earl of Surrey with an army over the Border; and Surrey, advancing into Berwickshire, took the castle of Ayton, and among other strongholds threw down Hutton Hall. Ford, in his dramatic chronicle of Perkin Warbeck, makes the most of this inroad, as Sir W. Scott remarks in a note to Marmion, when making Surrey say of the Scots—* Can they look on the strength of Cunderstine defac’t, the glory of Haydon Hall devastated, that of Edington cast down, the pile of Foulden overthrown, and the strongest of their forts—old Ayton Castle —yielded and demolished and yet not peep abroad.” It is not exactly known when the estate of Hutton Hall became the seat of the Johnstons of Hilton. However, it appears that the first Johnston of Hilton was Archibald, a cadet of Johnston of Benholm, in Annandale, who was a merchant in Kdinburgh about the beginning of the 17th cen- tury, and bought Hilton from Sir Alexander Swinton of Swinton, After intermarrying with the Homes of Polwarth, and the Winrams of Liberton, the Johnstons of Hilton came to be represented by two brothers; Ist, Joseph Johnston of Hilton, who is said to have been killed by William Home, sheriff of the Merse, at the Hirsel, of whom more hereafter ; 2nd, Sir Patrick Johnston Lord Provost of Edinburgh, repre- sentative of that city in the last Scotch parliament. The last of Joseph Johnston’s male representatives was Colonel Robert Johnston of Hutton Hall, who died at Ripon, in 1848. The last of the male line was Lieut. Col. Frederick Johnston, who for some years lived at the Albany. It does seem strange that in a country where there neces- sarily must have been so many rough encounters, and so 192 Mr. Stuart on Hutton Hall. much that is historically interesting, so little is preserved in the traditions of the people. The manners and customs of the inhabitants have changed so much that, owing to their peaceful employment, they have really no relish whatever for information of this nature. Of the times that the Homes were owners of Hutton Hall, there is no record preserved, but of their successors, the Johnstons, there are two interesting stories. Joseph Johnston, the son of Archibald, the first of Hutton Hall, flourished during the reigns of Charles the second and James the second, and during that time Daniel Douglas was minister of Hilton, a man whose memory is still preserved among the people, as a staunch presbyterian. His zeal at this time got him into trouble. The people had assembled in Hilton kirk, the ruins of which still exist, and among others Joseph Johnston. Douglas, in his sermon, said something which gave offence to the laird, who rushed upon Douglas in the pulpit with his drawn sword, and wounded him. In- dignantly addressing Johnston, he prophesied against him the prophecy of Elijah against Ahab,—“‘ In the place where thou hast done this shall dogs lick thy blood.” Douglas, compelled by the troublous times, sought refuge in Holland. Some time after these events, Johnston and Home of Ninewells, were invited by the Countess of Home to the Hirsel at the merry Christmas times. The Earl of Home was detained in London on state business, and was in consequence not present. One evening Home of Ninewells, and Johnston of Hilton were playing cards with William Home, sheriff of the Merse, and the latter having lost a large sum of money, was not, when they parted for the night, in the most amiable frame of mind. Johnston, indeed, had just retired to bed, when the sheriff bursting into his room with a lighted candle in the one hand and a drawn sword in the other, demanded satisfaction. As Hilton was rising from his bed, Home ran him through the body and inflicted several most severe wounds; Ninewells, who hearing the fracas, and in the act of coming to see what was the matter, was also stabbed and expired on the spot. The murderer instantly fled; Johnston lingered for a few days and expired. His remains were put in a coffin and taken to Hutton Hall: but on the way, the persons who” were conveying the body were caught in a severe snow storm at Hilton, and had to wait some time till the storm passed by. For the sake of decency, the coffin was carried to the church, where it was deposited. It was then observed that Mr. Stuart on Hutton Hall. 193 blood was flowing from the coffin, and before it could be prevented, the dogs accompanying them rushed forward and fulfilled the prophecy of Daniel Douglas. Popular tradition is all the authority I have to offer for the latter part of the story, but the Hirsel transaction is fully de- tailed in a letter written at that period by the steward of Lord Derwentwater to his Lordship in London, and is also related in “ Law’s Memorials.” In a note appended to that narra- tion, Law states “ Before his death, Mr. Home is said to have returned to Scotland, smitten with remorse, and anxious to obtain pardon from a near relation of Johnston, then residing in Edinburgh. This gentleman, in the dusk of the evening, was called forth to the outside stairs of the house, to speak to a person muffled up in acloak. As he proceeded along the passage, the door being open, he recognised the murderer, and immediately drawing his sword rushed towards him, on which the other leaped nimbly down from the stairs into the street and was never again seen in Scotland.” Lord Fountainhall states that the unhappy man was killed in the wars abroad. His name has been omitted in the account of his family in the peerage. The sisters of the late proprietor of Hutton Hall, Colonel Johnston, were among the most beautiful women of their day. There were four,—one was Mrs. Oswald of Auchencruive, whose portrait by Raeburn is one of his finest masterpieces, and the engraving of which, in Blackie’s edition of the works of Robert Burns, has rendered her face not unfamiliar. “ Wat ye wha’s in yon toun” was written in her praise by the Scot- tish Bard. A distinguished equestrian, she was a zealous fox-hunter, and withal one of the most graceful, accomplished, and beautiful women of her time. Lady Baird of Saughton, was another sister. Some other stories about this old place might still be got together, but I am afraid I have already wearied you with what I have read. The popularity of the Johnstons is greater than could be credited, attaching as it does to a family who have left the country for nearly thirty years. The present proprietor is Mr. M‘ Kenzie Grieves, who resides constantly in Paris. 194 SAINT BATHAN. By Joun Turnsutt of Abbey St. Bathans. 28th June, 1860. It has been suggested that at the visit of the club to the parish of Abbey St. Bathans to-day, some account should be given them of the “‘ misty saint’? whose name the parish bears, and I have accordingly put together the following desultory notes regarding him. The name appears in many different shapes—Baithen, Bai- thin, Baithan, Baetin—are some of the earlier forms. Boy- than, Bothan, Bathan, are later forms, besides which there are many other spellings, and the word sometimes has and sometimes has not a Latin termination. There have been several saints of this name, one or other of whom has given it to two parishes in Scotland, namely, Abbey St. Bathans, where we are now met, and Yester or Gifford in East Lothian, which was formerly called St. Bothans. The prefix “‘ Abbey” in the case of this parish, probably arose from the religious house which was established here. The particular saint from whom this parish derived its name was Baithen, son of Brendan, and successor of Columba as Abbot of Iona. The authority for this is Dempster’s Meno- logium, under 19th January. ‘ In Lamermure Bothani Epis- *‘ copi et ceenobii sanctimonialium ei consecratio B. sutrii Die “¢ Coll abatis, qui sancto Columbano successit, sed non Robi- “ensi P.”” This statement is so distinct that an imaccuracy in the date under which it is entered cannot affect it. As will afterwards appear, the festival day of this Baithen was the 9th June not the 19th January, which latter date is the fes- tival of another Baithen called Baitan Mor, who also was a contemporary of Columba, but not his successor at Iona. He became Bishop of Clonmeenois in Ireland.* ’ Prior to the tenth century the history of Scotland is little to be depended on, but in the midst of the uncertainty, one group, composed of Columba and his disciples, rises in some- what misty outline indeed, but more clearly seen than any other human forms against the hazy distance of mystery and obscurity, being the only persons in that age of whom biog- raphies, written at no distant period after they lived, have a This Baitan Mor was the author of a life of Columba in Irish metre, some- times erroneously attributed to Baithen son of Brendan, as in Jameson’s His- tory of the Culdees, p. 311. He was also the author of several other works. Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. 195 come down to us. Written, however, as these biographies were, for a rude and superstitious people, the authors of them have narrated rather the marvels than the sober realities of their subjects, and have striven more to excite the admiration of their contemporaries, than to meet the stern requirements of a future age for historical accuracy. Baithen was the son of Brendan, the son of Fergus, the son of Conal Gulban, the son of Niall of the nine hostages. He was born in Ireland, (then called Scotia,) according to Tigh- ernac in the year 536. He seems also to have been named Conin” or Cominus,’ though it may not be altogether free from doubt whether Conin was not his brother.4 He had a brother named Cobthach® of whom little more is known ex- cept that he was one of Columba’s followers to Iona. That he became no way famous, appears from an ancient Irish poem which says :— ‘“¢ Brennan of happy career left none Save Baoithan of goodly deeds.’’f Brenden (father of Baithen) was brother of Fedhlimidh who was father of St. Columba, and therefore Columba and Baithen were cousins german. Through their fathers they were of the Royal race of the northern HyNeill or reigning family of Ireland. Columba, however, was 15 or 16 years older than Baithen, having been born in 520 or 521. From his infancy Columba felt a strong affection for Baithen, and brought him up and educated him. “ Reverendus pater Abbas Baithi- “nus ab infantia sua in verbo Dei et discipuli (moribus) ab “‘ abbate preeclarisstmo Columba diligenter instructus est”? and hence Baithen is frequently mentioned as the “‘ Alumnus’ of Columba. Notker calls him “ familiarissimus discipulus.’”* Baithen repaid this kindness of Columba by becoming his most devoted follower and zealous friend. For the first 27 years of his life, however, there is no history of him extant. It was when Baithen had attained this age (a. p. 563) that Columba left his native land and devoted himself to the con- version of the heathen population in Scotland. Like his great master, he went accompanied by twelve disciples, whose names have all been preserved, and first on that list of noble men is a Ordnance survey of Londonderry. b Adamnan’s life of Columba, edited by Reeves, p. 245. e Acta Sanctorum. d Boece Lib. 9, fol. 166, § 70. Ussheri primor. e Adam. p. 245. f Reeves’s Adam. p. 245. gs ActaS.S. h Ussheri primor, p. 701. 196 Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. Baithen, a worthy follower of him who in Iona planted the cross and founded that glorious college, from which Scotland was both to be christianised and civilised. ‘“‘ Hee sunt *‘duodecim virorum nomina qui cum sancto Columba de ** Scotia primo ejus transitu ad Brittanniam transnavigaverunt: “duo filii Brenden Baithene qui et Conin, sancti successor ** Columbae, et Cobthach frater eyus; Ernaan sancti avunculus **Columbae”’ &c.? Boethius describes them as “Christi dog- mate insigniter imbuti, sed magis longe sanctissimis decorati moribus,”” From the energy of his character we may well believe that Baithen took his full share of the labour necessary to establish the monastery, and when it was finished he devoted himself to missionary labours abroad, and to writing, teaching, and agriculture at home. Chief among his home duties was that of transcribing the scriptures, a work continually required by Columba of his disciples, and in which he was at much pains that they should be perfectly accurate. Baithen must have excelled all his companions in this art, for it is recorded of him “ Quadam “die Baitheneus ad sanctum accedens, ait, necesse habeo ut *aliquis de fratribus mecum Psaltertum quod scripsi percur- *“rens, emendet. Quo audito sanctus sic profatur, Cur hanc *“ super nos infers sine causa, molestiam? nam in tuo hoc, de “quo dicis, Psalterio, nec una superflua reperietur litera, nec “alia deesse, excepta I vocali, que sola deest. Et sic toto *‘perlecto Psalterio, sicuti sanctus preedixerat repertum, ex- *‘ploratus est.”° Sir Walter Scott, therefore, has done this saint a grievous injustice in making him the patron of ig- norance in the art of writing, when he makes the old Earl of Angus exclaim ‘““Thanks to St. Bothan, son of mine Save Gawin ne’er could pen a line.’’4 Among secular duties, agriculture principally engaged our saint, and we read of his performing the several operations of husbandry with his own hands, and earning his bread by the sweat of his brow. It was harvest; the brethren were en- gaged in reaping and carrying home their crop; Baithen being “ dispensator” or steward. The air became filled with a heavenly fragrance as if all the flowers in the world were a §. Columbae Discipuli et Cognati. Reeves p. 245. Fordoun Scotic. 26. Ussheri prim. p. 694. b Boece, fol. 166, § 70. e Adam. 1. 23. Colgan, cap. 23. d Marmion. Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. 197 collected together, inspiring in the hearts of the labourers a heavenly and unwonted joy, banishing all sensation of fatigue or sadness, and so lightening their burdens that they did not feel the weight of the corn they carried on their backs from the field to the Monastery. Baithen being enquired at, ex- plained that Columba ever mindful of them, though not bodily present, still in spirit was assisting them and gladdening their hearts, upon which all kneeled down, stretched out their hands to heaven and worshipped—(“‘ Christum in sancto venerantur, et beato viro.”’)* While superior of the monastery of Nah Lunge, in Ethica Insula, (Tiree,) he also had superintendence of the farm there, from which the establishment at Iona derived a great part of its supplies: and we find on one occasion, Columba giving an order to him to send a fat wether and six measures of corn to a thief, who had, by supernatural information furnished to Columba, been once caught in Iona, and who now was ina vision, perceived by the saint to be dying. ‘The presents, however, did not arrive till after he was dead, but served for his funeral feast.” . Baithen, however, did not remain long in Iona, but was employed in various missionary expeditions, sometimes alone, sometimes in company with Columba himself, and sometimes with other monks. While he was on one of these expeditions to “‘ Egea Insula”’ (the island of Higg), “the saint” (Columba) who was then in Hinba, (an island which seems to have been situated to the north of Iona, but cannot be identified), fell into a glorious trance, and while he would allow no one to approach him, he complained continually that Baithen was not present with him. Contrary winds, however, prevented Baithen’s arrival for the three days during which the trance lasted, and the old chronicler laments the loss by this detention, of the informa- tion regarding past or even future ages, which he assumes would have béen communicated to our saint.°. On another occasion we find Baithen in this same island of Hinba, along with Columba, rebuking a penitent there named Nemanus, who refused when ordered to accept food that was offered him. The holy man prophesied that he should be reduced to eat mare’s flesh in the company of thieves, and it came even as they had spoken.t On another occasion we read of him sitting a Adam. I. 37. b Adam. tr. 42. e Adam. 111. 18. d Adam. 1. 21. NN 198 Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. in judgment along with Columba on a man who “fratricidum “in modum perpetravit Cain, et cum sua matre mechatus est.” The saints dismissed him with the advice that if he was truly penitent and remained among the Brittones, without return- ing to Scotia (Ireland) during his life, perhaps God would forgive him. It is added, somewhat illogically, that it hap- pened as the saints had foretold, for he went to Ireland and was murdered.* Having been sent by Columba to a place called Druym- Cuill, to excommunicate an impenitent family there, he trans- ferred the punishment from the family to a tree under which he rested, and in a few days fire fell from heaven, the tree was rent to the very root, and died as the man of God had spoken.” Returning from these wanderings Baithen went to Tiree and presided over the monastery of Nagh Lunge in that island. Besides it there were several other institutions in the island, all dependent on Iona; but this monastery was a college or training school for missionaries, and there is one instance recorded of “Sapiens vir Feachnaus qui in quodam facinore lapsus,” but who had become penitent, being sent there, ap- parently to be confirmed in the faith by Baithen.° Baithen’s appointment to superintend this institution, is a powerful testimony to his talents, learning, and zeal. While he was here, the island was visited by a fearful disease, caused, it is said, by an attack of demons. Baithen, by fasting and prayer, so saved his monastery that only one person died, whereas in the other monasteries of the island many were cut off. Nor was this the only occasion on which Baithen put the devil to flight. In this same monastery of Naglunga, one of the brethren was vexed with a devil which Baithen cast out say- ing, ‘‘ Thou knowest, O devil, that as there has never been “friendship between me and thee, so there never shall be; “wherefore I command thee in the name of Jesus that thou “‘ depart out of my borders.’® The devil fled accordingly and the brother was saved. It was mostly, however, after he became Abbot that he exercised power over devils, and several instances are recorded. One of his own monks who was so vexed with a devil that, unless bound with iron chains, he tore himself and all around him, Baithen for very modesty a Adam. 1.22. Colgan cap. xxii. b Acta S. 8S. e Adam. 1. 80. d Adam. 111. 8. e Acta S.S. Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. 199 refused to cure, but sent him to Ireland for the benefit of the prayers of the saints there. After a long time, however, the maniac returned, and Baithen commiserating him offered a sacrifice to God in the church before the brethren, and then cast out the devil through the same eruption on the patient’s chin by which he had entered him.* It was soon after he succeeded Columba that, while sitting at dinner, he saw a horrible devil looking in through the window, and immediately he made the sign of the cross towards the brethren, and the devil, like smoke, vanished away. Being enquired at why he had made the sign of the cross, he told them that the devil had been looking in at the window, to discover whether any of them neglected to ask a blessing from God before his food, or to return thanks after it, but that on being observed, he was overcome by the sign of the cross and “ ut vapor evanuit.’’> From the island of Tiree Baithen made occasional visits to Iona, and it may well be imagined that in the frail coracle of those days, a voyage along that coast, exposed as it is to the swell of the broad Atlantic, was attended with much danger. Columba, however, by supernatural power, some- times so ruled the winds as to make them favourable for the voyages of his disciples, in the same day giving Baithen one wind and Columbanus another, as each required for his par- ticular voyage.° It was not, however, danger from the ele- ments alone that the heroic saint was called on to meet. “A “huge sea monster,” said Columba to Baithen as he was em- barking on one of these voyages, “‘rose from the sea last night, “and may meet you to-day between Iona and Tiree.” Bai- then replied “I and the beast are both in the hands of God.” “*Go in peace,” said the holy man, “thy faith will protect thee ‘from this danger.”” He sailed accordingly, but in the voyage saw the dreadful monster. He alone of all in the boat being without fear, raised both his hands and blessed the creature, upon which it sunk under the waves and was seen no more. At length the time came that Columba should die. The account given of his death by Adamnan is most touchingly beautiful, but is too long to be quoted here. He had long looked to Baithen as his successor, and in a poem which he wrote only six days before his death, and which is called ** Columba’s Intoxication,” that is, prophetic inspiration, he frequently mentions Baithen. The first line of it is— a Acta S. S. b Acta SS. e Adam. 11. 15. d Adam. 1.19. Colgan cap. xix. 200 Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. “Listen to me O good Baithen”’ and towards the end occur these stanzas— ‘‘ Mandar of the great ships shall come And shall carry off my body from my people, It was the Tailgum that foretold this, O beloved Baithen put on record. Patrick foretold of a truth, And Bridget the evil deedless foretold That their bodies shall be in stainless Dun And my body O Baithen record.’’@ On the day on which he died, Columba had been transcribing the psalms, and at the foot of a page had written that verse of (Adamnan says) the 33rd psalm. ‘‘ Inquirentes autem “ Dominum non deficient omni bono.” This is in reality the 34th psalm and 10th verse, “they that seek the Lord shall “not want any good thing.” “Here,” he said, “I must stop “at the bottom of the page, what follows let Baithen write.”? “That” says Adamnan ‘may well be the last verse Columba “‘ wrote, for he will not want any good thing for ever.” And the next verse suited well Baithen. ‘Come ye children hearken unto me, I will teach you the fear of the Lord.” 'The same night Columba attended the nocturnal vigil, and just after midnight, between Saturday the 8th and Sunday the 9th of June, in the year 597, while on his knees at the altar, without ache or struggle, his spirit gently took its flight. ‘Thirty years without dispute was ‘¢ Columba in his dark church, ‘He passed with angels out of the body ‘« After seven years and seventy.’’¢ He was succeeded as Abbot of Iona by Baithen, whom he had himself nominated to that office. A worthy successor he proved to the great apostle of Scotland, and attracted fol- lowers from Ireland and elsewhere. St. Fintan in his youth entertained a strong desire to go from Ireland to Iona, and become a disciple of Columba. On the propriety of doing so, he consulted a priest, prudent and respected in his generation, named Columb Crag. While he was with him there arrived at Columb Crag’s monastery two monks of Iona. ‘Columba, your holy father, is he well?” says Columb Crag. The monks bursting into tears answered “He is indeed well, our father, *‘ for he has lately gone to Christ,” whereupon all present wept a Reeves’s Preface, p. 80. b Acta S.S. Adam m1. 26. ¢ Tighernac. Iona Club Trans. p. 217. A somewhat different version is given in Reeves’s Adam. p. 277. d Adam. 1. 2. Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. 201 bitterly. Fintan then asked ‘‘ whom has he left as his suc- “cessor.” ‘ Baithen,” they say, “his pupil,” and all ex- claimed ‘‘He is worthy!” Columb Crag then asked Fintan what he now meant to do, who replied “If the Lordj will “permit, I will cross the sea to Baithen that holy and wise “man, and will have him for my Abbot.” He accordingly went to Iona and presented himself to Baithen. ‘“ I ought “to thank God for your arrival, my son,” said Baithen, “but “know of a truth that our monk you cannot be.” Fintan in sadness remarked that perhaps he was unworthy ; “ Not that “you are unworthy,” said Baithen, “I would willingly retain “you beside me, but I cannot disobey the order of holy Col- “umba, my predecessor, through whom the holy spirit has “ »rophesied concerning you,” and then he tells him how Columba had foretold that he would come from Ireland to Tona, but that he was not to be allowed to remain there and become the monk of any Abbot, for that he had been chosen of God to be an Abbot of monks and a leader of souls to the heavenly kingdom. Fintan accordingly, having received the blessing of Baithen, returned to Ireland and became “ per ““universos Scotorum Ecclesias valde noscibilis.”* The acts recorded of Baithen, after he became Abbot, in the Acta Sanctorum, are all of them to some extent miracu- lous. We tind him curing a monk, Trenanus, of dropsy, and modestly commanding him to tell no one by whom the cure was effected, but prophesying at the same time the period of its return. His cloak having been lent to a monk who was going on a journey, had virtue sufficient to cast out a devil. A dog biting his staff, which had been lent to Lugbeus, dropped dead. Iron weapons blessed by him? ceased to wound. He himself having been insulted by Beoanus, sent him some milk in a vessel, which being swallowed caused a disease, of which Beoanus died, but happily “in contritione bona.’’° ; The time at last came when Baithen too should die. It was just three years after his succession as Abbot, that he was in the church of Iona, before the altar praying to God, when a sleep as of death came upon him; and when the brethren crowding around him were lamenting, Diormit, who had been the faithful servant of Columba, said “ Behold, brethren, you “see that there will be no great interval between the two “festivals of your superiors.” On these words being uttered a Adam tr. 2. b Similar miracles are attributed to Columba. Adam. 11. 29, e ActaS. S. 202 Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. Baithen aroused from his deep sleep said “If I have found “ grace in the eyes of God, and have up to this day finished “a perfect course in his sight, I trust in him that I shall not “die till the festival day of my senior, which is still six days “distant.”* It was as he said. He had found the grace he sought ; he lived the six days and died, aged 66, on the 9th of June, in the year 600, the same day of the month as Col- umba and three years after him. Hence, St. Columba’s and St. Baithen’s festival days are the same. This is referred to in an ancient poem preserved in M.S. at Brussels— “ Columcille,—beautiful his aspect And his comrade Baithene ; Their Festivals perpetually without change Upon the same day of the week (month). They were as one,—behcld this interval; Four years—it not untrue— Baithene was later on earth Colum was the first in Paradise.’ b and again in another poeem— “They went into the eternal kingdom Into eternal life of brightest splendour ; Baethine the noble the angelical Columcille the resplendent.” ¢ There is some doubt as to the exact year in which Baithen died, but 600 is the most probable. Tighernac dates it in 598, the Ulster annals in 597, and taking his birth as in 536 and adding his age 66 as given by Tighernac, we get 602 as the year of his death. Dr. Reeves has a very learned and ingenious discussion on the date of the death of Columba, in which he seems to prove with tolerable certainty that he died in 597. The authorities differ as to the length of time that Baithen survived him. Four years is mentioned in the Brus- sels M.S. poem above quoted, and one is mentioned in Baitan Mor’s life of Columba, quoted by O*‘Donnell and also by Ussher,’ but the weight of testimony is three years, so that the most probable year of Baithen’s death is 600. | So lived our saint and so he died. There is no mention of the place in which he was buried, but we may hope that his ashes rest in peace in the lone grave-yard of Iona. _ Pointed, quaint, and often plaintive as the writings are from which the foregoing compilation has been made, yet while professing to detail actual occurrences, they invest events and persons with such an atmosphere of legend and supersti- Acta S. S. Reeves’s Adam. p,. 309. Book of Abits of C. C. Reeves’s Adam., p. 182, note. Ussheri prim., p. 701. aarp Mr. Turnbull ox Saint Bathan. 203 tion, that it is only occasionally and by partial and broken glimpses that we can discover a trace of the real. From them, however, such as they are, and from the characters which have been left of him, we can see enough of Baithen to have some idea of the man. He is described as being, next to Col- umba, the best acquainted with the scriptures, and to have the greatest learning of any on this side the Alps ;* for his zeal, prudence, sanctity, and primitive simplicity of manners, Columba himself used to compare him to St. John the evan- gelist. It is said also that he was not to be compared with the wise and learned only, but rather with the patriarchs and prophets of God and with the apostles, seeing that in him the holy spirit, the fountain and origin of wisdom and prophecy, reigned supreme. He was wise with the wise, a king with kings, an anchorite with anchorites, a monk with monks, pop- ular with the laity, poor in heart with the poor, like the apostles in the extent of the charity which burned within him, rejoicing with those who do rejoice and weeping with them who weep; but among all these gifts of divine goodness, true christian humility reigned as powerfully within him as if it were part of his very nature. No one ever saw him idle—he was always engaged either in reading, praying, or working. He obeyed so closely the divine precept, to pray without ceasing, that he would not allow so much time as intervened between swallow- ing two morsels of meat, or between reaping a handful of corn and laying it in the sheaf, to pass, without putting up an ejaculation to heaven. As far as human frailty permitted, he fulfilled the commands of God, subdued the flesh, and armed with spiritual armour the inner man against his enemy. Yet such was his humility, that no one could be more careful in protecting their earthly treasure than he was in avoiding any ostentation of his heavenly graces.” Of a kingly race, having his kinsmen kings of the adjoining countries, he reigned in- deed a king, spiritual however rather than temporal, but a powerful and enlightened ruler. “ Patriarch, Abbot, and King,” he influenced all the adjoining countries, advised their kings, was arbitrator in their differences, and ruled their priests. Such a character well merited the title of “ Saint,” which is given to him in the Coden Salmanticenses which contains the earliest notice of him extant, and which he has retained ever since. He was the founder and patron saint of Teach Baeithin, (7.e. CEdes Baitheni,) in the territory of Tir Enna in Tir a Ussheri prim. b Acta S. S. 204 Mr. Turnbull on Saint Bathan. Connell, now known as the parish church of Taughboyne (locally called 'Toboyne) in the barony of Raphoe, county of Donegal.* There is no mention of Baithen having personally visited or preached in this district, but that he did so is by no means improbable. It was from Iona that christianity was intro- duced into Northumbria. Colman, bishop of Lindisfarne, (who left it in 667,) was a disciple of the seminary of Iona, though not of Columba himself as is erroneously stated in Jamieson’s history of the Culdees.” In the Firth of Forth there is the island of Inchcolm with its ancient cell and pic- turesque ruins. On its shores Dalmeny and other churches consecrated by the same sect, and nearer still St. Bothans or Gifford, all serving as so many stepping stones to this eastern district. There is, therefore, no improbability that Baithen himself visited this very spot, and transporting ourselves in imagina- tion backward for 1,300 years, we may be allowed to figure him of athletic frame—of commanding mien—energetic and active—zealous for the propagation of his religion—animated by a love of adventure—as the old poem says ‘‘noble and angelical,”’ and having humbly received a blessing from Col- umba leaving the island monastery of Iona—after crossing Mull, visiting with all the freedom of an equal, his relative, Aidan, King of Argyle, at Dun Monadh—stirring afresh the pure fire which had there been lighted by Columba—thence travelling, often alone and on foot, through tangled forests and dreary swamps—preaching the gospel on every opportunity to a wild people, and exhibiting its power in his own character of meekness as well as courage—enduring fatigues and priva- tions without complaint—journeying from place to place, sometimes living with a lone monk in a lowly cell, and anon received with honor by the King of Strathclyde—enjoying a season of holy converse with St. Mungo, in his cell on the banks of the pure waters of Clyde, where now stands the manufacturing capital of Scotland, with the din of its thou- sands of factories, the merchant fleets on the polluted waters of its river, and the virtue, vice, and wealth of its half million of inhabitants—thence across to the Forth, where on Stirling’s Castle-hill Agricola’s ramparts had fallen to decay, but had not been succeeded by any later buildings—lingering on the lovely shores of the Firth to visit the cell of Dalmeny and that other island monastery of Inchcolm, to found, perhaps, a « Adam. p. 372. b Jamieson’s Culdees, p. 19. Mr. R. Embleton on the Zoology of Berwickshire. 205 at church Gifford, which, however, was destined not to endure —pursuing his weary way across the Lammermoors, till his eye rested on a small valley, green amid surrounding heather, fringed with wood among surrounding barrenness, with a river joined by two sister tributaries peaceably wandering through it, a well, gifted with miraculous virtue gushing out at its side, and on the mountain shoulder beyond, a village, which in the course of a few years was to become the royal residence of Edwin, whose ruins still remain—and as his soul was glad- dened by the fair prospect of these green pastures and still waters, is it to be wondered that he should remain here a while, and that he should wish to endow so lovely a spot with another and a nobler loveliness, and to make it a centre from which should be distributed to the surrounding country the blessings of religion, learning, and civilisation? A simple church it must have been which he founded here, constructed, probably, of dry stone or rough timber and thatched with heather or the fern. Beside it a hut, which he himself would at first inhabit and then leave in charge of a favourite pupil, when he went to excavate new heathen and found other churches. And if his spirit were ever permitted to revisit this spot of earth, we can conceive how it would be grieved when it saw the church which he had founded, rebuilt indeed and enlarged, but per- verted to the worship of a false religion, and become the abode of ignorance instead of being the light of the Lammermoors, until at the Reformation it again became the seat of a pure worship, when Dame Elizabeth Lamb the Lady Prioress, and her three nuns, unable even to write their names, left it for ever. “* Heec pauca de vita S. Baithini.” Additions to the Zoology of Berwickshire. By R. EMBLEron. Cotumsa Turtur; The Turtle Dove. A specimen of this rare visitant was shot here a short time ago, but was so much shattered as to prevent its preservation. F. CIRRIPEDIA. G. BALANUS. B. porcatus (Darwin.) B. Scoticus (Brown.) B. costata (Donovan.) From deep water on stones and sticks, not un- common. B. crenatus (Darwin.) B. borealis (Donovan.) Common. B. Hamert (Darwin.) B. candidus (Brown.) On the Longstone, very fine ; but sparingly. O 206 On Fossil Antlers of the Roebuck and Gigantic Irish Elk, found at Coldingham, in 1859. By James Harpy. [With a Plate. ] In October, 1859, while cutting a new course for a small burn, called the Court Burn, that runs through the Weavers’ or Tumbling Down Green in Coldingham, close by the foot-path that passes to the east of the Glebe, the workmen came upon two antlers of the Deer family, imbedded at the depth of five or six feet amidst a deposit of gravel, earth, and large boulders, similar in appearance to those collections of water-worn stones and pebbles that underlie the common soil in many parts of Berwickshire. These remains Mr. Wilson of Coldingham kindly procured for my inspection. They are of much interest, being, it is believed, the first fossils detected in the Berwick- shire superficial gravels ; and one of them,—the Irish Elk, is as yet unrepresented in Scottish formations.* One of the antlers is nearly perfect. It is that of the Roe-buck ( Cervus Capreolus.) It corresponds in form with the antler of the sixth year, in fig. 203, of Professor Owen’s ** History of Fossil Mammals, and Birds.” The specimen is coated with a red- dish soil; the root and the apex of the first snag are fractured ; in other respects it bears few marks of having been rolled. It is 9 inches long measured along the curve ; 5 inches to the first snag; and 7 inches to the second. The diameter of the beam is 2 tol inch. The snags are acute; the first is 17; the second and the apical portion 12 inches long, respectively. The Roe once frequented the Border district in numerous herds, but the present example dates beyond the historical period. In England, as a fossil, it has been found associated with the Mammoth and other extinct forms. The antler of the gigantic Irish Elk ( Megaceros Hibernicus ) is, unfortunately fragmentary ; only the palm with its ramifi- cations having occurred. Externally it still retains some of its native lustre and light brown hue. The hinder side is considerably paler than the front. On the back it is coarsely longitudinally furrowed and ridged. On the front the furrows are waved in the hollow central part but longitudinal else- where. The ridges and furrows are obliterated towards the apices of the branches. The intermediate pair stand on an advanced base, are shortest and straightest, nearly correspond in length and size, and taper from the base to the apex. The * Can the following refer to it? In Maxwell’s ‘ Hill-Side and Border Sketches,” I. p. 317, it is said that, near North-Berwick, ‘a medal of Trajan, a fibula, a patera, and a horn of a Moose-Deer,” were discovered. Mr. J. Hardy on Fossil Antlers of the Roe-buck, 207 two exterior are considerably larger and flatter, and are more clumsy and curved. The lowermost or smaller is more pointed than the other, commencing suddenly to taper from a sort of elbow 24 inches from the tip. The palm is considerably rent by a crack, and the longest branch wants its tip. The specimen bears only a general resemblance to those given in ““Owen’s Fossil Mammals,” &c., figs. 184 to 186, and that figured in Jameson’s edition of Kerr’s Translation of “ Cuvier’s Theory of the Earth.” The Megaceros shed its antlers periodically like the Deers, and, as with them, these were subject to variations in dimen- sions and form at different periods of the animal’s growth. It is also considered that the female may have had a peculiar sort of antler, but the evidence of this is not very explicit. -Often the antlers of the same pair had been unequally de- veloped ; the one being dwarfed relatively to the other. Pro- fessor Owen has seen one with the right antler having a palm 12 inches broad, and the left one 16 inches broad. ‘The pre- sent example is less than any he mentions. One figured cor- responding to the state of the antlers of the Fallow Deer, its nearest modern representative, of the 4th year, was 14 inches across the palm, and belonged to an antler 5 feet in length. The palm of ours is only about 10 inches in width. As it perhaps belonged to a younger individual than any yet put on record, I have been induced to give its measurement in detail.— Pau, broken off and cut at what I shall call the wrist, being the top of the beam. Diameter of section of the wrist.... 22 by 2 inches Circumference of the wrist ............ age Circumference below the branches ...... 12 fy Width of the palm measured in front.... 9 Re Width of do. on the back, being increased | j 9 pyar dorsal does iy oe ena. os Os os ‘7 Breadth across the tips of the branches .. 15 6 Length of the longest branch from a 14 wrist to the tip, which is fractured x Inner length of this branch............ Was Mreddilof Gitto:s osc nausea vices os 0's 2, Lee eh Circumference of ditto at thickest ...... 9) a Interval between it and the next, 2, 3, and 4 ms Length of the second branch...... 43 and 43 Ca, Length from the wrist to its tip ........ LOL Aig rea cieliratmaAseree Re ie Avie. «lost aan ayes 208 Mr. J. Hardy on Fossil Antlers of the Roe-buck Greatest' circumference fo PIs 34 inches Interval between it and the third, same as No. 1. Length of the third branch ........ 4by 53, Greatest breadth (it is flatter than the second) 14 Greatest circumference, increased by a 41 ridge on the back a Length of the fourth branch, on its inner 51 ASDC GEM ie 6c Bie Woleh dee st Me ore Length externally, or from the wrist to 10, EMERG PSE LOR SRR de SoS 2s Riel 5 ae A hl ee Greatest circumference. .........0.000. Se RS Interval between it and the third, 2, 4, and 43 In their development, the antlers of this stately animal sometimes attained a vast extent. One dug out of a marl pit near Drogheda, in Ireland, described by Dr. Molyneux in the “ Philosophical Transactions” for 1697, had antlers 10ft. 10in. in expansion. Professor Owen mentions the palm of one reaching the breadth of three feet. As regards the size of the animal itself, the skeleton discovered in the Isle of Man, in 1821, and now in the Edinburgh University Museum, is 6ft. lin.. high, exclusive of the neck and antlers; and the body is 5ft. 2in. in length, (See Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, VIII., 1823, p. 198.) The skeleton figured in Owen’s work, p. 444, is in height 10ft. 4in. to the summit of the antlers. The remains of the Megaceros are abundant in the marl beneath peat bogs in Ireland. ‘The English localities are Folkstone in Kent, Walton in Essex, Norfolk, and the peat of lacustrine deposits in Yorkshire. According to Owen it was a contemporary of the older Uri and Brsontes, and its other associates in the pasturage of the ancient lands, were the Red Deer, the Roe-buck, and the Goat, together with a Wild Horse, a Wild Ass, and the Wild Boar. ‘It was once imagined,” says De la Beche, “ to have existed only at an epoch anterior to man, but it is now considered that it was co-existent with him; although this by no means proves that it did not live upon the earth previous to him, as seems to have been the case.” PLATE II. Back view of Palm of Antler of Megaceros Hibernicus, Coldingham. 209 What is the use of the Lark’s long heel-claw? By Ratru Carr of Hedgeley. The serrated appendage on one of the toes of the Bittern was for a long time a perplexity to the best ornithologists, until at length the bird was observed to avail himself of it to cleanse his beak from the slime adhering to it from the fish and rep- tiles on which he had been feeding. But for such an admi- rable instrument as this curry-comb or scraper, his beak would. not only have been liable to remain daubed with slime, but the latter would have glued the downy feathers from his plu- mage around his mandibles, until the mass became irremoy- able. The Bittern’s serrated toe is therefore manifestly one of the most beautiful contrivances in nature. No more dis- tinct and sufficient explanation of its presence could possibly have been given than that we now possess. As I have never seen the Lark’s long heel taken as a sub- ject of inquiry, with a view to explain why so small a bird should have been furnished by its Creator with such an un- — usual extension of foot backwards, I will venture to offer a solution of the mystery, being one which presented itself to me one evening as I was returning home from shooting late in autumn. The season was just verging upon winter, the afternoon had been a wild and stormy one with cold showers of rain from the north-west, and the wind was rising into a gale at sunset. I was crossing an exposed, naked stubble, where the surface of the earth, glittering with wet, was begin- ning to freeze, under the intense cold, caused by rapid evapo- ration. A number of Larks kept rising from before my feet, one after the other, as I walked along, and then lighting again close before me. I slackened my pace and walked slowly, to observe their conduct on the ground; for I said, “‘what a night you will have of it here, my small friends, when I am snug in bed! If I come back before sunrise shall I find you all frozen to the ground? What hinders you to be so even now, —why are your breasts not already fast bound to that spark- ling icy soil among the stubble? How is it, even if you sleep standing, that your feet are not frozen fast?’ I then be- thought me of the claws or nails upon each toe, which are largely developed in the Lark, and permit only a partial con- tact of the sole with the ground when the bird is at rest. “But if you sleep standing, or rather in such a gale as this, cowering, how is it that you are not blown away?’ Then occurred to me the beautiful provision of the long, arched heel extending out rearward, on the principle of a flying buttress to 210 Mr. Harpy’s Botanical and Zoological Notes. a building, or an outrigger to a boat. It is a most beautiful provision to give stability on a flat surface. Without calling in the agency of frost upon a freshly satu- rated soil, we may be sure that the naked earth in winter is very frequently too cold for so small a bird to rest upon it in close contact with the body, and that in reality Larks do often roost in a standing or cowering posture, and always facing the wind. The other birds that haunt similar open unsheltered ground, such as the Snipes and Plovers, are all nocturnal feeders, active and in motion during the coldest hours. The Buntings participate, in a minor degree, in the ground-roosting habits of the Larks, and are furnished like them with an elongated hind-claw, though less fully developed. Botanical and Zoological Notes and Localities. By James Harpy. I. BOTANICAL. PAPAVER DUBIUM. At Horton and Hetton the seed-pods of this were swollen to twice their usual size, some of them being quite globular, with the interior fleshy and full of sap, by the attacks of a family of larve in the interior, apparently those of a Cynips, but too immature to decide. Viota HIRTA. Kyloe Crags. DIANTHUS DELTOIDES. Heathpool Linn, north side. Victa syLvATicA. In Roddam Dean. In a visit to this dean in July 1860, following the foot-path I found the follow- ing good plants; which it may be as well to enter on the Club’s records, as the locality will well repay a visit. —Mer- acium murorum, H. subaudum, Myosotis sylvatica, Crepis succisefolia, Melica uniflora, Rubus saxatilis, Campanula latifolia, Polystichum aculeatum, Carduus heterophyllus. EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM. Heathpool Linn. Hirractum suspAupUM. Wooler water below Langley- ford ; Heathpool Linn ; junction of Broadstruther and Com- mon Burns. CRrEPIS succiIsmFOLIA. Not uncommon in the Cheviot district. On the College at Heathpool, and on Wooler water below Langleyford. Carpuus nuTaNns. Middleton Hall Shepherd’s House ; Hetton where there is a white var.; Roseden. A good Ber- wickshire name for it is “‘ Queen Anne’s Thrissil.” My. Harpy’s Botanical and Zoological Notes. 211 TrrentaLis Evrop#a. On Penmanshiel moor behind Greenside hill. Along with Listera cordata at the foot of Collierheugh Crags, (this is the ridge of sandstone between Black Heddon Hill and Kyloe Crags.) CLINOPoDIUM VULGARE. Hetton burn. ADOXA MOSCHATELLINA. In a wood on Wooler water op- posite Middleton Hall Shepherd’s House. ANOMODON CURTIPENDULUS. In great abundance investing the base of a thorn in a hedge by the road side above Abbey Park ; and again in a similar locality to the north of Hillend. Orcuis BIFoLIA. Meadow below Langleyford. Carduwus heterophyllus grows there also, and on the Diamond burn where it crosses the public road. Cornus Suxcica. In modern times we find the Cornus ‘on the eastern side of the great Cheviot, as we ascend from Broadstruther, growing among the heather in a depression before we take the steep ascent to the summit. That this is Ray’s locality admits of doubt; at least it does not accord with that which he indicates. Writing to Lister July 17th, 1670, he says, “Tho. Willisell hath been lately here in his return out of the north, and brought with him several rare, and some nondescript plants.” One of these was the Cornus, found “on the north-west of the highest of the Cheviot Hills.” (Ray’s Correspondence, p. 61.) In the Appendix, p. 339, to his Catalogus Plantarum Angliz, London 1670, the locality is specified more precisely. “‘On the north-west end of the highest of Cheviot hills, among the rocks on the west side plentifully.”” ‘To its discoverer he bears honourable testimony. Here it was found, “and shown to me this summer by Tho. Willisell, a person employed by the Royal Society in the search of natural rarities, both animals, plants, and minerals ; the fittest man for such a purpose that I know in England, both for his skill and industry.” (p. 340.) In the Synopsis Stirpium Britannicarum, 2nd edition, London, 1796, p. 146, the notice is the same, only latinised. ‘ In. Northumbriz montibus Chevioticis dictis, in latere occidentali Septentrio- nalis partis montis altissimi copiosissime.” On the western side of the northern part of the highest mountain most abun- oe. Has it still to be looked for in the direction of Hen- ole? Il. ZOOLOGICAL. Harevpa exaciaris. A pair of the long-tailed Duck was as in the Harbour Loch, Coldingham Shore, in January, 0. 212 Mr. Harpy’s Botanical and Zoological Notes. OrrHacoriscus Mona; Short Sun-fish. A fine specimen of this rare fish was found by a boat’s-crew of the Coldingham fishermen, on the morning of 16th October, 1860. While sailing between Lumsden shore and Mawcarrs near Moorburn, they were surprised to observe a large fish, with its back fin above the water. Having fixed it with the boat’s hook, they took it on board and brought it to Petticowick at the west end of St. Abb’s Head. Having given notice to Mr. Wilson of Coldingham, he went to inspect it, and perceived it was a sun-fish. Dr. Hogg of London afterwards joined him in the examination. From a pencil sketch made by Mr. Wilson, and also a photograph, compared with Yarrell’s figure in the “British Fishes,” and a beautiful drawing made by Mrs. Johnston of a fish of the same kind caught near Berwick, in 1851, I found it was the Short Sun-fish (O. Mola.) At my request, Mr. Davies, of the Edinburgh Natural History Mu- seum, subsequently saw the fish, and came to the same con- clusion. The weight of the fish was 70lbs.; the length about 3ft. exclusive of the caudal fin; its depth about 2ft.; and from the tip of the dorsal to the tip of the anal fin, the extent was about 4ft. I owe these particulars to Mr. Wilson, but for whose exertions it would have lain unnoticed on the shore. A fish-curer sold the fish to the Edinburgh Anatomical Mu- seum, where it is now preserved. About the same period another fish of the same sort was captured off Dunbar, and was exhibited in the town. A very small one was once landed at the Cove Shore. In 1812 we find Mr. Patrick Neill ad- verting to the appearance of several immature individuals in the Firth of Forth. (Scots Magazine, 1812, p. 574.) It is recorded in Sibbald’s “ Scotia [lustrata,”’ 1684, having been first ascertained to be a native of the Firth of Forth, by Sir Andrew Balfour. The Berwick fish already alluded to came under the notice of Dr. Johnston. The following entry of it appeared in the Berwick Advertiser, Sept. 27th, 1851. Rarz Fisu.— ‘On Monday a party of fishermen belonging to Spittal, caught with a hook, when about ten miles out at sea, a sun- fish, a species very rarely found here. It was shown to a naturalist who informed them of its name, and stated that it was not full grown; it weighed 40lbs. It was sold to a fish- monger, who has, we understand, forwarded it to Nottingham.” Pacurus PripEAuxi, LEaAcH. White’s British Crustacea, p- 75. This hermit-crab unrecorded for the Berwickshire coast, was found in deep water off Burnmouth, lodged in a curious domicile formed of a sponge, Halichondria suberea of Johnston, Brit. Sponges, &c., p. 139, &c. The sponge was Mr. Tate on Acmea testudinalis. 213 of a flattened oval shape, 14in. long, by ? broad, of a dirty white colour, and close uniform texture. It had completely invested a small Buccinum undatum, in which the crab was a sojourner, and thrown an ample whorl around it, which was furnished with a well formed mouth and regular lip, strikingly imitative of the fabrications of a true shell-bearing mollusc. Montagu first remarked the parasitism of this sponge on shells enclosing the Pagurus. In the Edinburgh New Phil. Journal, VIII., (1830,) p. 235, 236, Dr. Coldstream gives an account of this sponge which had attached itself to a Turritella terebra inhabited by a Pagurus, and so enlarged it by two additional turns, that it became like a Buccinum. His explanation is similar to mine. ‘The Crab takes pos- session of the Turritella when young; the sponge then attaches ‘itself to the shell, and, as it grows, is forced, by the motions of the crab, to assume a spiral form, with a cavity enlarging towards the mouth, corresponding to the progressive develop- ment of its crustaceous inhabitant.” In the British Museum List of British Sponges, the specific name of this Halichondria, is altered to domuncula=Alcyonium domuncula of Olivi. I sent my specimen to the British Museum. Nanopuyrts Lyturi. ‘This pretty Curculio I found on Lythrum Salicaria, at Spindlestone Pond, in 1848; and again in 1860 at Hetton Burn, in company with Mr. Boyd. It is common in the latter locality. Vanessa Io; Peacock Butterfly. One on the border of Penmanshiel Wood, in May. Notes on the distribution of Acmea testudinalis. By GrorceE Tarte, F.GS. The recent discovery of new localities in our district for the pretty, smooth, tortoise-shell Limpet—the Acmea testudinalis —suggests inquiry into the history of its distribution. It is a boreal species inhabiting the shores and seas of Greenland, Norway, Zetland, the Orkneys, and the northern parts of North America. It has, however, been long known to range along the western coast of Scotland and to be pretty abundant at the Isle of Arran and among the Hebrides. Not many years ago it was first seen on the Irish coast; but it is now known to extend as far southward as Dublin Bay. It was observed on the north coast of the Isle of Man in 1836, where it has since’ considerably increased ; but it has not yet been discovered on the west coast of England or Wales. Oo 214 Mr. Hardy on a Red Deer’s Antler. The earliest notice I can find of its occurrence on the east coast of Britain, is in the Naturalist for 1851, where it is stated to have been taken in the Bay of Nigg in Kincardineshire. As an English shell, however, it was first recorded by myself in the Berwickshire Transactions for 1856, from a solitary living specimen found at low water mark on the Longstone, one of the Farne Islands. Since that time, Mr. Dickie reports it in 1857 as abundant in Aberdeenshire; Mr. James Hardy in 1859 found it at Cockburnspath; Mr. Wm. Boyd has this year taken several specimens near low water mark from the rocks at Spittal, south of Berwick, and more recently it has been found at North Sunderland. In the county of Durham, it has been recently discovered. Mr. Albany Hancock, in 1859, records it from Whitburn, and states that in September of 1857 he took three specimens, after much searching, at Roker, which is the most southern locality for it as yet known on the east coast. These facts suggest the inquiry, has this Mollusk been living in our district prior to 1856 and escaped notice, or has it only recently become a denizen of our seas? I cannot but think that, if it had existed there for any long period prior to 1856, it must have been observed; for the Berwickshire, Northumberland, and Durham coast has long been carefully searched by able and zealous naturalists, and the Acmea tes- tudinalis having well marked specific characters, readily dis- tinguishing from other Patelloid forms, must have been de- tected. The reasonable inference is that, this Mollusk is ex- tending its range from its northern specific centre and gradually migrating southward. It is desirable that the appearance of this Mollusk in new localities should be noticed, that hereafter the causes and extent of its southern distribution may be determined. On a fragment of a Red Deer’s Antler found at Coldingham, in 1858. By James Harpy. Besides rescuing from destruction the fossil relics described in a preceding paper, Mr. Wilson has handed to me a portion of the antler of a Stag or Red Deer, dug up in Coldingham Churchyard, in 1858, whose claims of a patriotic character, will appeal with better relish to some, than those productions of the pre-historic ages, that lie beyond the reach of common sympathies. The fragment, he writes, was discovered while opening new ground for a graye “at the base of one of the Mr. Hardy on a Red Deer’s Antler. 215 cloisters at the back of the Priory, about 9 feet below the surface, and nearly at the foundation. ‘The earth appears to have been an accumulation of rubbish worked into soil.” It is the basal portion of the horn, and is 6 inches long; the burr is 81 inches in circumference, and the beam immediately above it 7 inches. It indicates a size of antlers seldom seen in modern Highland deer forests. Since its owner formed the ingredients of many a monkish pasty, no doubt it belonged toa “hart of grease,” and being the present of a monarch,— to a ‘hart of ten,” likewise; for as Spenser says, as— ‘ach man’s worth is measured by his weed (garment), So harts by horns.” Deer once ran wild on the Lammermoors, as Earl Percy and his men, in 1372, found to their consternation.* There is a prevalent notion that the Priors of Coldingham were mighty Nimrods, but the ground for such a belief are not very sub- stantial. That Houndwood was their hunting seatt is a pop- ular fiction, constructed on the name of the locality, which existed previous to its becoming a possession of Coldingham. In the “ Account Rolls” there is no allusion to a stud ever having been maintained there. A single palfrey was the oc- cupant of the Prior’s stable at Coldingham. His other horses were “sumpters” and “‘avers,’—beasts of burden and draught. William de Bamburgh alone, from 1357 to 1359, kept one or two “‘hackneys.” Farming, not hunting, was the Coldingham “hobby,” especially wool-growing, to encourage which, the church was adorned in 1370 with an image of St. Blase, the patron of wool-combers.{ The only Prior we read of indulg- ing in the chase, was Robert Blackadder, a native of the Merse, who while hunting in 1519, fell with his six attendants, by the hands of his hereditary foe, Home of Wedderburn. Malcolm the IV. and William the Lion chartered the monks with a right of warren, and the privilege of the other game also, without explicitly bestowing free-forestry, which was conferred by Alexander III., in 1276.|| From the terms of the writ the forest-grant chiefly respected the liberty to cut timber. The monks, however, had “ venyson”’ in their woods of Brockholes, Harewood, and Denewood, when let in farm * Buchanan’s History of Scotland, II.,p.40. Ridpath’s Border Hist. p. 348. + Carr’s Coldingham, p. 26. { Priory of Coldingham Inventories, &c., p. xi. || Coldingham Charters in Raine’s Hist. of North Durham, Nos. XXVII., XLV., and LX VII. 216 Mr. Hardy on a Red Deer’s Antler. to Thomas Atkynson in 1429-30 ;* perhaps the “ aliquam bestiam silvestrem” of King William’s endowment ;—strag- glers now and then from the wild companies that the Lam- mermoor shepherds were accustomed to scare from the corn- fields, with ‘rattles made of pieces of dried skins, distended round ribs with wood, that were bended into a semicircular form, enclosing a few hard pebbles, and fixed to the end of long poles.” Was the gallant stag that furnished this antler, one of these wanderers on the Berwickshire hills? We think not. ‘There is no show of native venison in the Priory larder. When the monks did get it, it arrived from a distance; and was wel- comed with a flourish of trumpets; and so precious was it held that they eked it out to the last morsel, salting it down like their beef marts, “ mutton-carcases,” “ pork flitches,”’ “‘ dog-draves,”’ salt herrings and lampreys, “ stock fish,” and similar robust fare. This honour they owed to the heroic Bruce, perhaps in remembrance of hospitable offices during the siege of Berwick, by a charter given at Newbottle on the 26th December, 1328, in the King’s declining years, and during an interval of peace betwixt the realms. The witnesses were the Chancellor and the Earl Marshal, Robert Bruce, jun., Thomas Randolph Earl of Moray, and Sir James Douglas— and more distinguished concurrents Scotland could not pro- duce. He then, on account of the devotion he had towards St. Cuthbert and the monastery of Durham, conferred on the monks an annual donation of five harts at the feast of St. Cuthbert’s Translation, the 4th of September. ‘These were to be taken from his forest of Selkirk—that famed forest of Ettrick where, when “‘Tts waste glens with copse were lined, Doe and roe and red-deer good Have bounded by through gay greenwood.” The game was to be delivered up to them by the principal forester, at the festival of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin (15th August) and to be conveyed by him to the Priory at Coldingham at the King’s cost.t In thus promot- ing the festivity of “ their feast day,” the king was in a man- ner restoring St. Cuthbert some of his own property again, * Priory of Coldingham, (Surtees Society,) p. 105. Harewood is the field on Brockholes farm facing Grant’s House. The Brockholes mentioned is the Easter Brockholes which stood near Brockholes dean, perhaps the Denewood of the charters. The Atkinsons, now corrupted into Aitchison, held it for generations ; and their descendants are still farmers in the neighbourhood. + Carr’s Hist. of Coldingham, p. 267, 325. Chalmers’s Caledonia, II., p. 982. Mr. Hardy on a Red Deer’s Antler. 217 for he was the apostle of the Southern Borders, as well as Bishop of Lindisfarne, and nowhere was he more honoured, as his eulogist Reginald assures us, than in the vicinity of the ancient Forestry. He even, and somewhat to our purpose, devotes three chapters (86, 87, 88) to detail the feats of a stag, which hunted by a Lothian Knight, Robert Fitz Philip, on St. Cuthbert’s day, 4th September, 1165, took refuge in a churchyard, under the protection of the saint. That was the time when stags were at their best, and very fat. “Kt natura cervorum plenitudine crassitudinis et dilatata adipe pinguedi- nis redundaverat.” Exquisite vision for a monk! King Robert’s present was acceptable in every respect! The people are assembled in their holiday attire to the saint’s festival, and to view the stag in his sanctuary. The weather being - fine, they dance, and leap, and sport, put the stone, and joke, and sing; till at last a luckless lad with a stake pokes up the stag reposing in the porch of the church. Away it bounds, gores one of the dancers to death, and on its flight to the woods is intercepted and killed by one of its original pursuers. For the rest of the story consult Reginald’s Miracles of St. Cuthbert. How long the monks enjoyed the benefit of ‘“‘ Good King Robert’s Testament” in their behalf, is uncertain. David II. renewed the liberal grant of his father in 1344. This pleasing gift is thrice recorded in the annual account rolls of the Priory (pp. Vi, vii, and cvii.) In 1329 there was paid 6s. 8d. for writing the charter, In 1330, there was paid on account of the carriage of the five stags from the forest to Coldingham (King Robert had died in 1829, and his forester appears not to have disbursed the passage-money), and also for salt for the same, and the expense of a man by the primitive name of Adam , 11s. 4d. In 1344 the clerk’s fee for engrossing the confirmatory charter was 6s. 8d. It is to some of these consecrated animals, most probably, that the remains of this noble antler once appertained. Reginald tells us that in his time, the horns and bones of deer were converted “into combs, draughtsmen, chessmen, dice, spigots, &c. ;”—a chap- ter of economy our Coldingham monks had overlooked; for though relishing the venison, they had cast to the dogs the bones to gnaw and carry away. 218 Saxon Sculptured Stones at Norham. {With Two Plates. ] When the Club met at Norham in September 1858, the Sculptured Stones, which have at different times been dug out of the old foundations of the Saxon Church, were ex- amined with much interest, and a wish was expressed to have them drawn and figured in our Transactions, as illustrating the Saxon styles of ornament in the ninth century. Mr. T. G. Grete has presented drawings of them to the Club, and we are indebted to Mr. F. R. Wilson, Architect, Alnwick, for preparing lithographs of these drawings. Some account is given of these Sculptures in the present volume of the Trans- actions, pages 121 and 122. PLATES be View of the Sculptured Stones as they are built up into a pillar in the Church- yard at Norham. PLATE II. Separate drawings of stones built up intc the pillar but not seen in plate IL., with enlarged drawings of some of the more remarkable Sculptures. Gud. v.G-GRETE BEX Me (fee STONES SUIT UP IN THECHURCK YARD ar NORRAM . Wy oF 2 Bip: seaplane! bar le ela, Me __cTRANSFERED BY F-RWuson. L '.6-.GRETE. DRY “FRAGMENTS py me CHURCH YARD ps NORHAM PROCEEDINGS OF THE BERWICKSHIRE NATURALISTS’ CLUB. Address delivered at Berwick, on the 27th of September, 1861. By D. Miztne Home, Ese., of Wedderburn, Presi- dent. GENTLEMEN, I now proceed to the duty which at the close of every sum- mer session specially devolves on your President, viz.—the delivery of an address, which shall embody the proceedings of the club during the past year, and shall also submit to your consideration some comments on these proceedings, and such suggestions for the management of our institution as your President may have thought of. The practice of this annual address, appears to me to have many advantages. To those members who attended the meetings, it in some degree renews the enjoyment and in- struction which the meetings had afforded. To those mem- bers who were absent, it shows in what way our club is carrying out its objects, and on what grounds it claims a continuance of their support. To the president himself, it B.N.C.—VOL. IV. NO. -V. P 220 Anniversary Address. supplies a stimulus, by keeping him on the watch to select fitting topics for the address expected from him. The principal part of my duty, which is to bring before you the proceedings at our several meetings, 1s much facilitated by the admirable manner in which the minutes of these meet- ings are kept. Mr. Tate, one of the secretaries, to whom we are indebted for them, not only narrates faithfully everything important or interesting which occurs, but clothes his record in such felicitous language, that the reading of it, so far from being tedious, is ever listened to by us with pleasure. I therefore make no apology for engrossing in my address these minutes verbatim ;—and after each, I will offer to you such comments as the minutes may have suggested to me. Whittingham Meeting.“ A wet and threatening morning deterred several members from attending the meeting of the club held at Whittingham on the 13th of September, 1860. Karly, however, in the forenoon, the rain passed away, and the members who assembled enjoyed all the advantage which a pleasant day could afford. After breakfast at the Castle Inn, the party visited Whit- tingham Church, one of those rare structures which carry us back into Saxon times. It was probably found in the middle of the eighth century, by Ceolwulph one of the kings of North- umberland, who, some years before he died, abandoned his regal dignity and retired into the monastery of Lindisfarne which he richly endowed. Simeon tells us,—‘ Intravit autem Lindisfarnense monasterlum Sancto Cuthberto secum con- ferens thesauros, regios, et terras, id est Bregesne* et Werce- worde® cum suis appendiciis, simul et ecclesia quam ibidem ipse adificaverat: alias quoque quatuor villas Wudecestre, Hwitingham,° Eadulfingham,* et Eagwlfingham.’® Greatly was it regretted that much of the old Saxon work was destroyed, when the church was repaired and altered in 1840. Fortunately, Rickman has given a brief account of this church, and a drawing of the tower as they existed before a Brainshaugh ? b Warkworth. © Whittingham. a Edlingham. © Eglingham. Annwersary Address. 221 modern alterations had marred their peculiar and interesting features. At that period, the tower, the west end of the aisles, and one arch on the north side appeared of the same early Saxon style of architecture. The corners of the tower and the exterior angles of the aisle walls had that quoining characteristic of Saxon work, which consisted of a long stone set at the corner and a short one laying on it, and bonding one way or both into the wall. In the upper part of the tower, there was a double window, with the openings sepa- rated by a rude balustre ; and lower down, was another original window, having an angular arch formed by two stones. A very plain arch with a large rude impost and a “plain square pier remained of the old nave. I have seen similar architectural characters in the Saxon tower of the Church, of St. Benet, in Cambridge. The next arch, east- ward of the Saxon one in Whittingham Church, was of the common Norman form, and the remainder of the church was in the early English style. Both Saxon and Norman. arches have been taken away and replaced with others of the early English style; the upper portion of the tower has been taken down and the old windows destroyed, and of the original structure, there are left now only the lower part of the tower, which still shews the peculiar long and short Saxon work, and some remains in the interior of the eastern wall, of a rude double circular arch. Notwithstanding the storms of eleven centuries have broken over this old tower, the rubble masonry and the quoins formed of the gritty sandstone of the district are but little decayed. May we not hope that since time has dealt so kindly with it, man hereafter may lay no ruthless hand on what remains. There is no such relic in North Northumberland; it is an architectural type of the style adopted by our early forefathers ; it is an unwritten historical record, and we ought not to be deprived of its teachings and associations. Some members turned aside to view Whittingham Tower, formerly a strong Border Pele, with a vaulted under story and - with walls eight feet in thickness. An original entrance and a ~ 222 Annwersary Address. window on the east evidence, that it is an Edwardian structure of the 14th century. In a survey made by Sir Robert Brewis and Sir Raufe Elleker, on 2nd Dec., 1542, two towers were then in a good state. ‘At Whyttingam’ say they ‘bene two towers whereof the one ys the mansion of the vycaridge and the other of the Inheritance of Rb’t Collingwood Esquier both in measurable good repar’ons.’ Fifteen years ago, the latter tower, now the property of Lord Ravensworth, was repaired and to a great extent rebuilt. An appropriate inscription over the new door-way says— BY THE MUNIFICENCE AND PIETY OF LADY RAVENSWORTH THIS ANCIENT TOWER WHICH WAS FORMERLY USED BY THE VILLAGERS AS A PLACE OF REFUGE IN TIME OF RAPINE AND INSECURITY WAS REPAIRED AND OTHERWISE EMBELLISH- ED FOR THE USE AND BENEFIT OF THE DE- SERVING POOR. A.D. 1845. Well would it be were all changes and restorations for so good a purpose. Leaving the village, the party under the guidance of our President and Mr. Collingwood, proceeded to Thrunton Crags. They crossed the branch Roman road which joined Watling Street a little eastward of Whittingham, and which, passing along the base of the Crags and away by Holystone, extended to Watling Street, thus connecting the two great roads which, during the Roman occupation, traversed the county. A portion of the great Thrunton Wood, which has an area of about 1,500 acres, was examined, but no rare plants were seen ; indeed there are few species over this wide area. Pterzs aguilina and Lastrea dilatata were in rank abundance, Vac- cinum Myrtillus and V. Vitis-idea were also in profusion and in fruit. The Crags are sandstone and in some parts rise as cliffs to the height of one and two hundred feet. There are great rents in these rocks and tumbled down masses, which here “Anniversary Address. 228 and there form caverns. One of these, Wedderburn’s Cave, was examined ; another bears the name of the Priest’s Cave. In times of disturbance and insecurity, when the borders, especially, were subject to plundering and slaughter, such caverns may have been used as hiding places, and have taken their name from the persons who found refuge in them. Some persecuted minister of religion may have found temporary safety in the Priest’s Cave, and possibly a freebooting Wed- derburn may have escaped death by concealment in the dark recess which bears his name. The ascent through the wood to the top of the crags is very steep, but the party were rewarded for their toil, by the magnificent view they enjoyed over the Whittingham Vale. Resting on the summit for a while, they scanned over the varied and beautiful features of the scene, and traced the boundary of the geological formations which have impressed their character on the district. The fine conical forms of the porphyritic hills, belonging to the Cheviot range, are seen roll- ing into each other at the head of the valley. A mass of this rock protrudes like a promontory as far eastward as the Ryles, and northward in a deep bay we have old red sand- stone conglomerate ; some patches of the Tuedian or lower carboniferous group are in the lower grounds at Garmitage and Crawley Dene. From beneath the sandstone hill on which we rested, there comes out one of the lowest limestones of the moun- tain limestone group, and in one of the shales, interstratified with it, we found a species of Modiola. The thick beds of sand- stone, forming the great crags of Thrunton, belong to the same formation, and are a continuation of the ridge, which, after bounding the valley of the Till and Breamish at Doddington, Ros Castle, and Bewick, sweeps round by Beanley and AIn- wick Moor to Thrunton, and thence in a southerly direction over the bleak upland moors of Northumberland. The broad vale which lies beneath is highly cultivated, adorned with woods and studded over with halls, villages, and hamlets ; forming, indeed, one of the most beautiful and diversified scenes in Northumberland. 224 Anmversary Address. On the Thrunton Crags, the Falcons some time ago built their nests and brought forth their young; but they have been driven from their home by the incessant persecutions of gamekeepers, who ruthlessly shot them as “ vermin.” Any nobleman might be proud of having such tenants of his rocks ; and surely the few rabbits or partridges, which might be taken for food, should not be grudged, in order that this noble bird may not altogether disappear from our district. Some of the party ascended Callaly Castle Hill, a detached rugged sandstone hill, somewhat conical in form and densely shrouded with wood. The summit, which is an irregular and broken plain of about two acres, is the site of an old camp, which like most of our early fortlets is rounded in form, but modified to suit the outline of the ground. The rampiers and ditches are in some parts very distinct, and the height from the bottom of the ditch to the top of the rampier is, on the west side, 20 feet. On the north side the escarpment of the hill is very steep, and there is but one rampier ; but there are two on the other sides; and there is a third at a distance of about one hundred yards down the hill on the west side, whence an attack could most easily be made. The ditch in some parts is cut deeply into the sandstone rock. Two en- trances are traceable nearly opposite to each other, that on the W.S.W. side crosses the deep ditch by means of a cause- way. This fortlet is remarkable, not only for its strong posi- tion and the skilful construction of its entrenchments, but also for the peculiarity of its inner rampier, which in some parts is formed of stones roughly squared, built up, and even bedded with lime; and in this it differs from most fortlets attribut- able to the ancient British people, for their rampiers are usually made of undressed stones and earth. Probably this, originally a Celtic Camp, was afterwards occupied by another people, who reconstructed with more art the inner wall. The Romans may for a time have occupied it, for one of the Roman roads passes at a short distance. Callaly House stands at the base of the hill on low ground on the site of an ancient pele tower ; and it is the subject of Anniversary Address. 225 a curious Northumbrian legend, which very probably had its origin in the apparent remains of extensive buildings on the castle hill. The legend is briefly told thus :— A Lord of Callaly in the days of yore commenced erecting a castle on this hill; his lady preferred a low sheltered situa- tion in the vale. She remonstrated; but her lord was wilful, and the building continued to progress. What she could not attain by persuasion she sought to achieve by stratagem, and availed herself of the superstitious opinions and feelings of the age. One of her servants who was devoted to her interests, entered into her scheme ; he was dressed up like a boar, and nightly he ascended the hill and pulled down all that had been built during the day. It was soon whispered that the spiritual powers were opposed to the erection of a castle on the hill; the lord himself became alarmed, and he sent some of his retainers to watch the building during the night, and discover the cause of the destruction. Under the influence of the superstitions of the times, these retainers magnified appearances, and when the boar issued from the wood and commenced overthrowing the work of the day, they beheld a monstrous animal of enormous power. ‘Their terror was complete, when the boar standing in the overturned stones cried out in a loud voice— Callaly Castle built on the height, Up in the day and down in the night; Builded down in the Shepherd’s Shaw, It shall stand for aye and never fa’. They immediately fled and informed the lord of the super- natural visitation ; and regarding the rhymes as an expression of the will of heaven, he abandoned the work, and in accord- ance with the wish of his lady built his castle low down in the vale, where the modern mansion now stands. Passing by Callaly the party proceeded to Eslington House, where they were received by Captain Liddell and Seymour Liddell, Esq., the sons of Lord Ravensworth, who had kindly ordered luncheon for the party. Much pleasure was felt in viewing the fine paintings belonging to his lordship, and in 226 Annwersary Address. strolling over the beautiful grounds around the house. The collection of pine trees was much admired, especially the Pinus Laricio, which may, according to the opinion of Mr. Oliver, the intelligent head gardener who conducted the party over the grounds, become the economical pine of England. Especial attention was devoted to ancient bronze weapons found at Thrunton, which Lord Ravensworth had been so courteous as to bring from Ravensworth for the examination of the club. The party returned to Whittingham in time for dinner, at which there were present—the President, Messrs. Langlands, Collingwood, William Boyd, F. R. Wilson, J. Church, J. Church, jun., M. Culley, Charles Rea, C. Bosanquet, George Tate, the Revds. F. R. Simpson, Wm. Dodd, J. Walker of Greenlaw, and H. Parker; and as visitors, the Rev. Mr. Carr and Mr. W. Church. After dinner, Mr. Riddell, Mr. T. Brodie, and the Rev. John Irwin were elected members ; and Mr. William Church, Mr. Watson Askew, and Mr. Fairfax Fearnley were severally proposed and seconded. The President then read an able address which was listened to with much interest. David Milne Home, Esq., of Wedderburn, was elected President for the ensuing year.” At this meeting I was not present, having been then, and for some months previously, in Germany. The only point, therefore, to which I would advert, is my own appointment as president ;—an honour which I little deserved, considering that I have never contributed a paper to the transactions, nor for some years been able to attend a meeting. When, therefore, my predecessor, Mr. Carr, last year intimated to me my appointment, I at first declined, especially as I was then in such bad health, that I had doubts of being able to act. But ultimately I was induced to accept, though still unable to divine why I should have been selected. It was only the other day, that I discovered what may have brought upon me such a distinction. In reading the minutes of the Whittingham meeting, I found that one of the proceedings Anniversary Address. 227 of the club that day, was to examine a Cavern in the Crags of Thrunton which goes by the name of ‘* Wedderburn’s Cave ;” and it is observed, that at the period when the Bor- ders were subject to plundering and slaughter, this cave had probably been resorted to by a freebooting Wedderburn, who, to escape death for his malpractices, concealed himself in the dark recess which still bears his name. ‘This interesting piece of family history, at once furnished a clue to my appoint- ment; for my wife, as is well known, is the lineal descendant of this freebooter—inheriting also his estate and name in Ber- wickshire. The Club, therefore, on account of my connection with both sides of the Border, and also in return for the day’s enjoyment in exploring this Cave, probably thought it not un- suitable to appoint Mr. Home, of Wedderburn, their president. But whatever were the motives which influenced the Club in this matter, I feel very sincerely gratified by the honor conferred, and am very thankful that my health this summer has been such, as to enable me to attend the meetings. Berwick Meeting.—“ The Club met at Berwick on the 11th October, 1860. ‘There were present—Messrs Ralph Carr, P. Clay, J. Clay, Robert Douglas, J. Church, J. Church, jun., S. Sanderson, Geo. Tate, the Revds. J. D. Clark, Wm. Dar- nell, Hans Hamilton; and as visitors, Rev. E. A. Wilkinson, and the Hon. Fred. Pepys. After breakfast the accounts were examined and passed, and the subscription for the ensuing year fixed at six shil- lings. It was resolved that a Field meeting be held in the month of August; that the October meeting be discontinued ; and that the last meeting of the year should be at Berwick on the last Thursday in September. The following were appointed as the places of meeting for 1861, viz.,— Kelso, on the last Thursday of May, Linhope, si 8 June, Grant’s House, ie July, Alnwick, v4 3 August, Berwick, He 7 September. Pp 998 Annwersary Address. It was also agreed, that the Tyneside Naturalists’ Club be requested to unite with this Club in holding the meeting at Alnwick. Mr. Sanderson exhibited some fossils out of the mountain limestone of the district; one of them was Gyracanthus ob- hquus—a fish spine, from the shale of Scremerston. The day being cold and stormy no out-door exploration was attempted. A part of the members crossed the river to Spit- tal, to examine an interesting collection of mountain Lime- stone fossils, from the beds south of the Tweed, belonging to Mr, James Patterson. Besides many of the commoner ferns, there were large specimens of Actinoceras giganteus and Pinna flexicostata ; and of the rare Orthoceras cornu-vaccinum. After dinner Mr. Tate read a paper on bronze weapons found in Northumberland. The gentlemen nominated at the last meeting were elected members; and the Rev. Wm. Darnell proposed for member- ship the Rey. Edward A. Wilkinson of Bambro, and Mr. Tate proposed Dr. Robert Clay.” It has occurred to me that it is desirable to keep the mem- bers of the Club generally informed of its financial and numerical strength, and that the President’s annual address may afford a convenient medium for such communication. As the minutes of this meeting mention that the accounts for the two previous years were examined and passed at it, I give the following abstract of the revenue and expenditure of the club at that date ;— Income. — Lae eevud. Subscriptions received for the years 1858 and 1859 ... 52 1 Expenditure. ofl erSs _ ¢ bs Balance due Secretary, Oct. 27th, 1858 ... 10 5 Printing Transactions, Circulars, Postages, &c., for two years B45 coe OAT b=. One: 47 Giaetto Balance in Secretary’s hands, 10th Oct., 1860, £4 8 8 Anniversary Address. 229 T am able also to mention the result of the examination of accounts this day, viz. :— Income. Loe Sat is 1. Balance due by Secretary on previous year ‘fo A oe 2. Subscriptions received act ee wa OO R46 35 3 2 Expenditure... nae Aas ah viel Aenea: Balance in Secretary’s hands, £7 14 10 With regard to the number of members, I have to state that in October, 1860, the number on our list was 118, since which we have lost one by death, viz., the Rev. Delaval Knight, and that we have obtained, (including 7 who were admitted to-day,) 36 new members, making a total at this date of 153. Kelso.—* The first Field meeting of the year 1861 was held at Kelso, on the 30th of May, when a large number of mem- bers were assembled. There were present—the President, Messrs. Robert Embleton, Geo. Tate, Robert Home, Wm. Dickson, Fred. Collingwood, P. Clay, James Tait, Charles Rea, Scott Dudgeon, John Clay, P. Dickson, Dr. Robson Scott, the Revds. J. Dixon Clark, Wm. Darnell, Thomas Leishman, Geo. Walker, Robert Jones, Robert Green; and as visitors, Mr. Darling, Dr. M‘Kenzie and Dr. Douglas of Kelso, Mr. Heckford, Curator of the Kelso Museum, and Mr. J. A. H. Murray, Secretary of the Hawick Archeological Society. After breakfast, and before proceeding on our walk, an able paper by Mr Stuart of Edinburgh was read, ‘ On Kelso Abbey, Roxburgh Castle, and other antiquities of the neigh- bourhood ;’ and the information contained in this paper prepared the minds of the members to view with a deeper interest the scenes visited during the day. Through the kind- ness of Mr. Stuart, there was shown to the meeting, a fac- simile of the Charter granted by Malcolm IV. to the Abbey, the original of which had been written in its Scriptorium. 230 Anniversary Address. The caligraphy was remarkably accurate and beautiful; but it was especially interesting, from having the first letter M. illuminated with two miniature portraits—one of Malcolm, and the other of his grandfather David, the founder of the Abbey. The party afterwards proceeded to the grand old Abbey, which, with its projecting corner towers, has some features of a baronial castle added to a christian church. The magnifi- cent proportions and beautiful ornaments of this impressive structure were much admired ; and it was considered one of the happiest examples of transitional Romanesque architec- ture; for here the massive and sombre characters of the Norman style are in parts relieved and enlivened by the light piers and elegant capitals, which give grace and beauty to early English architecture. The rich ornamentation of the Norman porch, and the interlacing arcades, which are sup- posed to have been the origin of the pointed Gothic, were particularly noticed. After -going through the well-kept garden adjoining the Abbey, in which several sculptured Abbey stones are pre- served, the party visited the Kelso Museum, which contains a valuable and varied collection of objects in natural history and antiquities. All were pleased with their excellent pre- servation and orderly arrangement, which reflect great credit on the skill and attention of Mr. Heckford the curator. It was gratifying to notice, that local natural history and anti- quities, which are often neglected while foreign objects are assiduously collected, find a place in the Kelso Museum, There are several celts, hammers, and weapons of the stone and bronze periods, which have been obtained from the dis- trict; and there are a good Herbarium of Berwickshire, pre- sented by the late Dr. Johnston, and an interesting collection of Roxburghshire ferns. Some disappointment however was felt, because no examples of the rocks and fossils of the dis- trict were to be seen, as these with no great labour might be obtained, and would form an instructive department of the Museum. Anniversary Address. 231 From the Museum the party proceeded to the Floors grounds and palace, to which free access was given through the cour- tesy of the Duke of Roxburgh. The party strolled through the parks and enjoyed the beautiful scenery; they entered some of the apartments of the castle, and went through the extensive conservatories. ‘The changes in the level of the Tweed formed a special subject of observation, The north bank, on which the house stands, is formed of water worn eravel, and is considerably above the present channel of the river, and at some distance from it. Looking down from it towards the river, two other terraces are traceable, and furnish evidence confirming the views, some time ago expressed by our president, that the river had at former periods flowed at levels much higher than it does at present. Passing from the Floors to the river, a cursory glance was given at the rocks which are there exposed; they belong to the Tuedian or lowermost group of the carboniferous forma- tion, and consist of the shales, impure limestones, and sand- stones peculiar to the group, and contain Entomostraca and fish remains, among which are scales of Holoptychius Ei- bertw. Tere the party crossed the river and climbed the steep hill on which stood Roxburgh Castle. Occupying the angle formed by the junction of the Tweed and Teviot, it was a place of great strength, and the masses of ruins yet remaining attest the greatness and strength of this renowned border fortress. Many scenes of richness and beauty courted admiration in the course of our ramble, but none was fairer and more pleasing than the view up the Teviot from Roxburgh Castle hill. Leaving this spot, the party wended their way over the site of Old Roxburgh, which in the time of David I. was one of “the four great burghs,”’ but is now entirely covered with green sward. On the higher ground, among a group of trees, some sculptured sepulchral stones, recently dug out of the ruins of the Old Town, were examined. At a distant period they had stood as memorials in one of the ancient chapels of Roxburgh. Of these relics an account may be expected from 232 Annwersary Address. Mr. Murray, the Secretary of the Hawick Archeological Society. After dinner, the minutes of last meeting were read, and the Rev. Edward Wilkinson, of Bambro, and Dr. Robert Clay, now at Chatham, were elected members ; and the fol- lowing were nominated for membership, viz—Mr. G. J. Williamson, Thames Street, London, Mr. J. A. H. Murray, Hawick, Dr. Chas. Douglas, Kelso, Dr. John Mackenzie, Kelso, Mr. James Patterson, Berwick, and Professor Camp- bell Swinton, Kimmergham, Dunse. A letter from Dr. Thomson, of London, one of the oldest members of the club, was read, suggesting that daily meteor- ological observations should be made at Berwick, which is about the centre of the district embraced by the club; the meeting fully appreciated the value of the suggestion, and finding on enquiry that such observations are now regularly made with proper instruments at Berwick, Mr. Robert Home was requested to give the subject his attention, with the view of procuring an annual record for publication in our transac- tions. The peculiar and almost unique wild cattle of Chilling- ham were brought under the consideration of the meeting, in consequence of Mr. C. Darwin, the celebrated naturalist, having made enquiry respecting their rate of increase, in order to compare their history with that of the wild cattle of the Falkland Islands and South America. Statistical information regarding them is at present however not sufficiently exact for scientific purposes. It was thought that if a proper record were kept of their births, sexes, deaths, causes of death, and of the calves born (if any) differing from the normal type, with a brief description of such differences, there would be obtained, in the course of about a dozen years, information which would be interesting both to the naturalist and agri- culturalist. Mr. Tate was therefore authorized to bring this subject before the attention of the Earl of Tankerville. The Rev. J. D. Clark reported that Strix passerina—the Little Owl—had been caught at Spittleford, near Embleton ; Anmversary Address. 233 it was a female, and full of eggs. This is a rare bird in England. My own ramble in connection with the meeting was ex- tended as far as Jedburgh, chiefly that I might see the vener- able Abbey there, and examine the section of Cambro-silurian and old red sandstone rocks on the Jed, which the descrip- tions of Hutton, our president, and others have rendered classical. But I refer to this ramble, that I may note an archeological discovery ; for in Jedburgh, among some rocks in possession of Mr. Matthewson, I observed an inscribed stone, with sculpturing, of the same character as those on the rocks at Old Bewick and Routing Linn. These peculiar inscriptions were noticed in 1825 by Mr. J. C. Langlands, and a paper was read respecting them by the Rev. W. Green- well, at the meeting of the Archeological Society, held in Newcastle, in 1852; but descriptions of them were first pub- lished in our Transactions, in 1853, and in Dr. Johnston’s Natural History of the Eastern Borders. Since then several other similar stones have been discovered on the Dodding- ton moors, at Chatton, on Whitsunbank, near Rothbury, and as far south as the parish of Stamfordham. The discovery at Jedburgh is interesting, as extending the range in another direction ; and as one of the same stones occurs in Kirkcud- brightshire, they may be found to be generally distributed over the south of Scotland.” In these minutes, our Secretary takes notice, that there was a large assemblage of members. The fact is easily accounted for. It was the first Field meeting of the year, after the interval of the winter, when no excursions are at- tempted, and members were glad that the season had returned for their rambles amidst the attractions of rural scenery. Our first meeting was in May, the month in which, of all others, the fields are clothed in their brightest green; when every rocky dell or sunny bank is gay with yellow primroses, and the woods are astir with the industry and melody of the feathered tribe. No wonder, then, that the members assem- bled in numbers, and came forth with joyous spirits, eager 234 Anmwersary Address. to follow their respective favourite pursuits. The Botanist with his tin box slung from his shoulder—the Geologist with his hammer and leather bag—the Entomologist with his little insect net—the Antiquarian with his sketch book,— all these the working bees of our hive were there, and many others besides, who though not themselves devoted to any of the special objects of our club, liked to hear these objects discussed, and stroll with those who could illustrate them as opportunity offered. It was interesting to see, that though the party during our day’s excursion consisted of little knots, each following a separate subject of research, there was amongst us all a family sympathy, a sort of brotherhood, which sprung from all having the same end in view,—the study of nature, and a search after truth; from all using for that end the same means,—the exercise of their bodily senses and mental powers ;—and from all having their hearts open to be impressed by the beauties and wonders of creation. The minutes mention how the party after viewing the Abbey and the Museum, walked through the noble park and gardens of Floors. Every one admired the stately beech, elm, and chesnut trees, through which the avenue winds; and regretted to notice the serious injury done by the frosts of last Christmas and of the first week in May, to a number of ornamental shrubs, such as the Portugal Laurel, the Crip- tomeria, Pinus Deodora and insignis, and even to the com- mon Yew and Holly. These observations led to some remarks on similar injuries to vegetation elsewhere, and to the degree of cold which produced them. It was stated that along the banks of the Tweed, the destruction of ornamental plants and shrubs had been much more complete than in the higher parts of the country :—that whilst at Stitchel, Newton Don, Caldra, Dunse Castle, and Manderston, places from 300 to 400 feet above the sea, the Portugal laurels were scarcely affected, those in Springwood Park, Kelso Nursery Gardens, Lees, Milne Graden, Norham, and Paxton, were killed to the ground. It was also mentioned, that at these higher places during Annwersary Address. 255 Christmas week, the thermometer was about 2° or 3° below zero, at places in the valley of the Tweed, it sank to 7° or 8° degrees below zero. It was commonly supposed that the dampness of places near water, was the cause of greater damage there to vegetation ;—but from the above observations and others elsewhere, it appears, that places at low levels are always marked by greater cold in winter. Whether damp- ness also contributes to the effect, has not been ascertained by any accurate observations ;—and some doubt is thrown upon the supposition, by the fact, that at Dunse Castle, the Portugal laurels close to the lake there, were not affected. That low places in winter should be colder than those in the same dis- trict, at a higher level, within certain limits, follows from the principle, that as air becomes colder it becomes heavier, and therefore flows to low situations. I took notice of a circumstance, during the cold of last Christmas, which I may be allowed to mention here, for the sake of recording it, that the Tweed at Milne Graden was frozen over, with ice from 9 to 10 inches thick, and that fully three weeks elapsed before it broke up. In the body of the ice, I observed a number of extraneous articles, such as weeds which had grown at the bottom of the river, pebbles about the size of walnuts, and a fresh water mussel, with both shells entire, and the animal alive. At this place the river is about 12 feet deep, and at first I felt some difficulty in accounting for the phenomenon. It must have been caused, as 1t appears to me, by the ice being formed at the bottom of the river. The upper surface of the water would of course first be cooled down to the freezing point, and by intermixture, the whole body of water below, would gradually be cooled also. Now ice would first form, in such circumstances, at the bot- tom, among stones, weeds, and other objects, which besides obstructing the movement of the water, would serve as neclec for crystallization. But ice being lighter than water,—the ice when it had accumulated in a sufficient quantity, would become buoyant, and rise, carrying up with it small pebbles and other bodies at the bottom to which it had attached itself. Qe 236 Annwersary Address. The Secretary in the minutes of this Kelso meeting, has taken notice of the old terraces, which are so well seen in Floors park, and on one of which the castle stands; mentioning that they are confirmatory of the views some time ago ex- pressed by myself, that the river Tweed had formerly flowed at levels much higher than at present. I may be allowed here to explain, that I conceive there is evidence of a lake having once existed in this part, the north bank of which is indicated by the steep cliff, (about 60 feet above the river,) running not only through Floors park, but also along the north side of the town of Kelso, under the race course, and reaching the river at the toll near Henderside park. At this last mentioned place, the lake probably had its outlet. Gradu- ally, the channel for the outlet wore down, and the lake then became drained. If these views be correct, Roxburgh castle is on a tongue of land which originally projected into the lake. I may add, that there appear evidences of a similar lake, in a lower part of the Tweed,—viz., between Wark Castle and Coldstream Bridge, at which last mentioned place it dis- charged itself. Both the north and the south banks of this lake are indicated by a cliff about 40 feet high, the base of which is from 20 to 30 feet above the river. There are cuts in this cliff, through which small streams had flowed into the lake, and in some instances, the deltas of these streams are still discernible at the foot of the cliff. On the southern cliffs, a terrace occurs at several places, about two thirds from the top of the cliff, which seems to indicate, that the lake had stood at that level long enough to allow of the formation of a beach. I would invite attention to two large angular boulders of clinkstone porphyry, lying close beside each other, near the base of the south cliff. They have apparently formed originally one block, which had weighed above four tons. This boulder, being not at all rounded, could not have travelled far ; and we know that the same rock occurs im situ among the Cheviots, about six or seven miles to the 8. W. Annwersary Address. 237 I may here mention, that another boulder, still more inter- esting, is situated a few hundred yards below Coldstream Bridge, on the north side of the bank of the Tweed. Judging from its dimensions and quality, it must weigh above 12 tons. It consists of chert limestone, of a cream or grey colour. The field in which it lies is called from it, the Grey stone field.* Limestone of exactly the same description occurs in situ, near Carham, about six miles to the westward. It is a question of much difficulty, to explain by what means these large boulders have been transported. That the natural agents now existing in the district, are quite inadequate, is evident. I conceive that Millfield plain is in like manner the bot- tom of an ancient lake. The beach or bank, about 40 feet high, is very conspicuous near the turnpike road at Wooler Cottage.t On the river Eye also, above Ayton, there has been a lake, the banks of which are plainly discernible on both sides of the valley near the village of Reston ; to the east of this village, two successive sinkings of the lake are indicated by terraces on the south bank. At all these places, there are extensive flats, formed by the sediment which has been brought down by the rivers, consisting of fine gravel, mud, and sand,—and with which the valleys have been filled up. Reference is made in the minutes to Roxburgh castle, the ruins of which were visited during the course of the day. Considering the original extent of the walls, and their im- mense thickness, it is surprising that so few fragments should * This large Boulder in former days was an object of popular mystery and reverence. It was resorted to on the occasion of the celebration of Border mar. riages. The couple, having proceeded with their respective friends to the stone, the bride and bridegroom, stretched across it, and joined hands. The friends then declared the compact formed. + In confirmation of the opinion, that Millfield Plain was formerly the bot- tom of a lake, I may mention what Sir Horace St. Paul, the proprietor, recently stated to me, that atthe brick-work of Ewart Park, the depth of the clay ex- ceeds 70 feet. The clay is very free from stones, and consists of sediment evidently deposited in still water. 238 Annuwersary Address. be extant. Still more striking is the complete obliteration of the town, which was situated on the flat ground, east of the castle. In illustration of the remark made in the minutes of our meeting, that it was one of the four great burghs of Scot- land, in the time of King David I. and his immediate succes-- sors, it 1s enough to mention, that though protected by the castle of Roxburgh, the town was also well fortified by a wall and ditch ;—that it carried on considerable trade and com- merce ;—that it had in it several places of worship, a number of schools, and an hospital. It was governed by a provost, aldermen, and baillies| When we remember that at this place the Scottish kings held their courts; that here, parlia- ments and councils were assembled, a mint for coinage estab- lished, and foreign legates received, how striking is the change of scene! The ivy clustering over the ruined walls of the castle,—the trees growing in its once capacious court yards, —the green sward covering the site of the ancient town,— what an emblem is presented of the fall of dynasties, and the evanescence of earthly power ! Linhope Meeting.—“< The third Field meeting of the year was held at Linhope, among the Cheviot Hills, on the 27th of June. Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the weather in the morning, a considerable party assembled at breakfast at the Powburn Inn, and in the course of the day several other members arrived at the principal place of meet- ing. There were present—the President, Messrs. Carr, Dand, Hugegup, F. R. Wilson, Langlands, Geo. Tate, Wm. Boyd, the Revds. J. D. Clarke, Darnell, Simpson, Chas. Thorp, Rook, Green, Tyler, Dunn ; and as visitors, the Revds. P. G. M‘Douall, Robert Goodenough, W. J. Cooley, Wm. Green- well of Durham, and Messrs. MacLauchlan, Coulson, Colville of Yetlington, and Thomas Tate. After breakfast the ordinary business of the club was trans- acted, and the members proposed at the last meeting were elected. The following nominations for membership were made and seconded, viz.,—Rev. Patrick G. M‘Douall, Kirk- newton; Mr. Henry Dand, Togston; Mr. Thomas Brewis, Annwersary Address. 239 Eshot; Mr. Wm. Lowrey, Barmoor; Rev. W. J. Cooley, Ren- nington; Rev. Robert Henniker, Charlton; Rev. Wm. Green- well, Durham. Mr. Dand exhibited some well formed flint arrow heads, which had been found in the land near to Hauxley; and this led to a conversation on the stone implements and weapons used by primeval races, especially with reference to the imple- ments and weapons, which had been found associated with extinct animals in undisturbed gravel deposits in the valley of the Somme in France. The rain fell heavily during the forenoon, and masses of clouds hung about the hills ; and at one time it seemed doubt- ‘ful, whether a visit to Greaves Ash, the chief object of the meeting, could be accomplished. Despite however of un- favourable appearances, it was determined to proceed onward, and brakes, gigs, and horses were brought out, to convey the party, as far as practicable, up the rocky valley of the Bream- ish. As they went onward, various objects of interest were noticed. The Roman road,—‘ the Devil’s Causeway,’—a branch from Watling Street, passes through the garden of the Powburn Inn, and on the hill overlooking it on the east is Crawley Tower, one of the oldest and most interesting of the Border peles, standing nearly in the middle of a well defined Roman camp. The ruined church and churchyard of Bran- don lay a little to the north of our route, being one of three churches in the parish of Eglingham which have fallen into decay and been abandoned. Brandon hill is crested with a Celtic camp, near to which three leaf-shaped bronze swords were recently found. We passed through Ingram and cast a glance at its old church ; but we were more struck with the marks of decay which were impressed on the village itself; for in former times it was a market town, and the base of the market cross still stands on the village green, and the foundations of numbers of ruined houses can be traced on the sides of the road and in the adjoining fields. The registers of the parish help us to estimate the extent of depopulation in recent times, We find that during eight years, from 1682 to 1689, there 240 Anniversary Address. were 76 persons, belonging to the parish, buried in Ingram churchyard, but during the same number of years, from 1853 to 1860, the number of burials of the same class of persons was only eleven; and therefore, after making an allowance for the longer duration of human life in our own times, it may be inferred, that Ingram parish was six-fold more popu- lous in the seventeenth century than it is at the present period. In these registers we find evidences of the operation of a statute passed in the reign of Charles II. for the encourage- ment of the woollen manufactures, and prevention of the exportation of money for the importing of linen, and enacting that no corpse should be buried in any shirt, sheet, shift, or shroud, or anything whatsoever made or mingled with flax, hemp, silk, hair, gold, or silver, other than what is made of sheep’s wool only, on pain of £5. The following extract from the register illustrating this law is curious and in- teresting :— ‘February 6, 1682. Isabella Wright (the child of Geo. Wright of Reavely.) ‘An affidavit in writing under the hand and seale of Ann Robertson, that the abovesaid Isabella Wright was not wrapt up or buried in anything mingled with flax and other materiall but sheep’s wool onely, as also a certificate under the hand of Arthur Eliott Clerke (before whom the said affidavit was made), were brought the day and yeare above- said. AQUILINA FORSTER.’ Above Ingram the valley contracts, and the river flows between high hills—Brough Law on the south, and Reavely hill on the north. Though wanting the adornment of trees, save here and there an old thorn, there is much picturesque grandeur in this part of the valley—‘sublimity breathes from the form of the hills.’ The hill sides, though steep and broken with scars, are for the most part covered with a bright green vegetation ; and here and there variety is given Annwersary Address. 241 to the scene by long trains of porphyry rocks which have, time after time, rolled down from the summit. The action of the elements has given to these rocks externally a violet bloom, which when illuminated by sunlight appears beautiful amid the green herbage. Locally these trains of rocks are called Glidders or Glitters, which with much probability has been derived from ‘ gleiten’ to slide. Mr. Carr of Hedge- ley pointed, out horizontal ridges in several places on the hill sides considerably above the level of cultivation at the pre- sent period being probably the remains of a very ancient husbandry. Two distinct river terraces or haughs were noticed lower down in the valley, proving that the Breamish had formerly flowed at elevations from 10 to 20 feet above its present channel. ’ Arrived at Greaves Ash, near to Linhope, the party com- menced examining the extraordinary remains of the ancient British town and fortlet there. All were interested in observ- ing the result of the excavations which have been in progress under the direction of the club, with the view of showing more of the character of the place, and if possible of throwing ~ some light on a dark and distant period of our history. But of this structure a full account may be expected at the August meeting of the club. Some of the members extended their walk as far as Linhope Spout—a picturesque waterfall. Fortunately before the party arrived at Greaves Ash, the weather became favourable, and the party could with a high degree of pleasure ramble over the hills in the neighbourhood. The observations made in natural history were not import- ant. In the Powburn Ranunculus aquatilis was abundant, along with Callitriche autumnalis, Callitriche verna, and Calhitriche platycarpa ; Teesdaha nudicaulis and Filago minima were in the gravelly bed of the Breamish ; and near the Linn the very pretty Sazxifraga stellaris, Polypodium Phegopteris and Dryopteris, and Cystopteris fragilis were found. The porphyry rocks at Greaves Ash and on the banks of the Breamish are crusted over with lichens—none however of much rarity; the following have been determined, 242 Annwersary Address. Lecidea geographica and polytropa, Lecanora glaucoma, Squamaria saxicola, and Sperophoron corallordes. The members were reunited when the hour for dinner came. A large tent had, by the kindness of Mr. Colville of Yetlington, been erected within the walls of the old Celtic town; and herein the party enjoyed a substantial dinner, which had been brought up from Powburn. Large though the party was who assembled in this wild region, yet if the morning had been favourable, a still larger number would have been present. Five or six members at- tempted to reach Linhope from the Scotch side of the Border by crossing the Cheviot ; but after proceeding nearly as far as its summit, they were reluctantly compelled .to retrace their steps on account of the boggy ground being impassable by horses. After dinner there was exhibited a very perfect small silver cross recently found at Hartside, on the Breamish, bearing on one side the letters Alpha and Omega, and on the other side, the inscription which is by some persons read AGLA, and by others AGCA.” The object of our meeting at LinHoPE among the Cheviot hills, was, as the minutes show, mainly archeological. Whilst the exploration and examination of the old British town of Greaves Ash, was the matter of greatest interest, several other spots were pointed out by our Secretary as throwing light on the early history of the district. The old Roman road and camp near Crawley,—the remains uf the ancient town of Ingram,—and several British camps on the hill tops, all excited notice and led to instructive conversation. Opera- tions had been going on for several weeks previous to our visit, in order to clear out the dwellings in the ancient town near Linhope ;—for which purpose, workpeople had been employed to remove the rubbish and turf which had accumu- lated over the buildings. Such an undertaking was new to the club ;—as in the department of archzeology, its operations had previously been limited to the receiving of papers report- ing on relics found, and the publishing of these in our trans- Anniversary Address. 243 -actions. But it was a much more important step for the club itself to enter on attempts at exploration and discovery. These vestiges of primeval humanity cannot be too highly estimated. They belong to a period anterior to all written history; so that if we desire to know anything of the races who inhabited our country, at that early epoch, we must endeavour to de- cipher the traces which they have left of themselves in their habitations and sepulchral monuments. It is scarcely neces- sary to remark with what interest the members present ex- amined this ancient town in all its details ;—the massive unhewn masonry,—the peculiar forms of the dwellings,—the structure of the floors,—the positions of the doors,—and the thick walls with mysterious cells in them. If any further proof were needed to show the general sense of the club as to the importance of these explorations, it would be the large attendance of members, who, to witness the operations in pro- gress, had come to a remote spot among barren hills, having for that purpose left their homes at an early hour, and in weather anything but propitious. JI would only add, how much we all felt that we were indebted to our Secretary for watching the excavations, and for laying before us, as he did at our Alnwick meeting, a most interesting report detailing what had been done and discovered. One of the things found at Linhope was a broken Quern, which indicates that corn was a part of the food of the in- habitants, and suggested the inquiry, where was the corn grown, and what were the means of culture? This inquiry seems to be answered by certain marks of a very rude hus- bandry on the sides of the hills in this neighbourhood, to which Mr, Carr first drew attention. Some of these marks have the appearance of horizontal shelves. In the circular sent round to members, intimating the Linhope meeting, and specifying some of the objects worthy of attention, these shelves are taken notice of as ‘ marked terraces, apparently formed by the action of water,’—a theory which was undoubtedly commonly entertained. Having some experience of the phe- nomena of ancient water terraces and raised beaches, I went Q* 244 Anmversary Address. with another member of the club, to examine these shelves, at several places between Linhope and Ingram. My friend and I satisfied ourselves that they were not terraces formed by water, inasmuch as though some of them were hori- zontal, others ran obliquely round the hills, and in several instances they coincided with the slope, forming in this last case wide ridges with deep trenches between. I came to the conclusion, that these appearances indicated the operations of husbandry,—carried on at some very remote period. It will be observed, that if corn was to be grown in this district, the most suitable spots would be not in the valleys, then covered with woods and liable to river floods, but on the hill sides, which were free from trees, and at all events more easily cleared ; and where the soil, consisting in great part of decom- posed porphyry, must have been peculiarly fertile. These spots had also the advantage of being dry ; and it appeared to me, that in order to prevent the water running away the soil, the ground had been formed into broad terraces more or less horizontal, a practice common at this time on the hill sides of France and Germany for the culture of vines and garden crops. In some of the hills, as I have stated, the ridges and furrows slope down the hill. At these places we observed, from the immense quantity of rushes and other aquatic plants, that the ground was full of natural springs; and if it was intended to keep the soil free from water, the mode adopted certainly was the best for the purpose. On mentioning these views to my friend the Rev. Mr. Baird, minister of Yetholm—one of our original members— he informed me, that at several places in his parish there are similar terraces more or less horizontal, along the sides of the hills, His theory in regard to their origin, however, is different from the one just suggested. He states that these terraces occur only where they are visible from places on the hill tops, on which he believes Druidical worship to have been carried on; and his opinion is that these terraces were made and used for the purpose of enabling the inhabitants of the dis- trict to come together and witness the ceremonies performed Annwersary Address. 245 by the priests on these hills. The theory is ingenious, and invests the terraces with even a greater mystery than has hitherto attached to them. But I am not inclined to agree with Mr. Baird. His remark that the terraces in his neigh- bourhood are always visible from some adjoining hill top, suggests that this arrangement may have been adopted for the sake of safety to crops growing on the terraces, as most probably on these hills there would be persons watching the district in camps or fortlets. To investigate this subject further, it occurs to me, that it would be desirable to have a small committee appointed to make a special report to the club. After hearing the report, a visit could be paid to some of the more remarkable of these terraces. I have heard that at a place called Hethpool, on the Colledge river, they are very striking. They occur also in other parts of the country, for Professor Simpson, in that most instructive address which he delivered last year, as president of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland, asks, ‘‘ Who fashioned the terraces at Newlands in Tweeddale ? and what was the origin of the many hill-side terraces scattered over the country?” On this testimony to the interest attaching to these terraces, I feel the less hesi- tation in recommending the subject to the special considera- tion of the club. Grants House Meeting—< The third Field meeting for the year 1861, was held on the 25th of July, at Grants House, a place always visited with renewed interest, as it was the birth-place of the club. The Botany and Zoology had on former occasions been carefully observed ; and therefore the chief objects of this meeting were to examine Edin’s Hall and the geology of Cockburnlaw. A very wet morning was but a bad augury for the meeting, and deterred several members from attending. There were present, however—the Presi- dent, the Rev. Geo. Rooke, Mr. Home of Berwick, Messrs. Turnbull, John Boyd, Wm. Stevenson, Robert Douglas, J. Patterson, D. Macbeath, Chas. Watson, Dr. Stuart, Dr. Hood, Mr. Geo. Tate, Mr. Carr of Hedgeley ; and as visitors, Mr. Landale of Temple Hall, Mr. Waite of Dunse, and Mr, Hardy of Penmanshiel, 246 Annwersary Address. After breakfast, the party proceeded over the bleak Lam- mermuirs to Abbey St. Bathans, where they enjoyed the hospi- tality of Mr. Turnbull ; and afterwards went along the banks of the Whiteadder to Edin’s Hall, which stands on elevated ground on the north-east side of Cockburnlaw. This, one of the most remarkable antiquities in the south of Scotland, was examined with great interest. It has been well described, in | our ‘Transactions, by the late Mr. Turnbull of Abbey St. Bathans. Much regret was expressed on account of the dilapidations it has suffered, even during the last few years, and it was proposed to make an effort not only to have the ruin protected from further destruction, but to clear it out, so as more fully to shew its age and character. Leaving this interesting memorial of the past, the party ascended Cockburnlaw ; and as we passed along, the Presi- dent and Mr. Stevenson directed attention to the character of the rocks forming the hill. Arrived at the summit, which commands a magnificent view over the Merse and the Lam- mermuir hills, the President gave an instructive exposition of the geology of the district. Our examinations and discussions in the field were so pro- longed, that the party had to hasten back to a late dinner at Grants House. The members proposed at last meeting were elected ; and the following nominations were made :—David Hope, M.D., Ayton; Mr. John Waite, Dunse; Mr. Edward Hargett, 56, Queen’s Street, Edinburgh ; Mr. John Allen, Baillie Mains, Chirnside; Mr. Richard Hodgson, M. P., Car- ham Hall; Sir Horace St. Paul, Bart., Ewart Park; Major Hope Smith, Cruicksfield ; Captain M‘Laren, Coldstream ; Sir George Douglas, Bart., of Springwood Park. An account was given by the President vf some curious caves which had, not long ago, been discovered on the banks of the Oxnam near Crailing; and an able and learned paper by Mr: Hardy, on the history of the Wolf in Scotland, was read.” The chief object of attraction, on this occasion, as the minute shows, was that old structure on the N.E. side of Anniversary Address. 247 Cockburnlaw, near Dunse, known by the various names of Edin’s Hall, Wooden’s Hall, or Eetin’s Hald. This curious relic of a by-gone age, has long been an object of mystery among the inhabitants of the district, and of interest to anti- quarians. It has given rise to a legend handed down from one generation to another, that it was once the residence of a giant ; the particulars of which, Dr. Hood of Maines, has at my request embodied in a letter which I shall lay before the club. The place was described in the year 1764, by a writer in the Scots Magazine ; next by Chalmers in his Cale- donia ; and also in the two editions of the Statistical account of Scotland. The most accurate description, however, was given in the year 1850, by the late Mr. Turnbull, of Abbey St. Bathans, one of our members, and whose paper was pub- lished in our transactions. The place had been visited by our club a few years ago, and probably most of the members had, like myself, made pilgrimages to it on other occasions. The fact of our club having resolved to pay a second visit, and that so many members assembled, indicated pretty plainly a con- viction, that the subject was not exhausted—that the riddle of the origin and object of the edifice had not been solved. How true it is, that— ‘¢ There is a power And magic in the ruined battlement, For which the palace of the present hour Must yield its pomp, till ages are its dower !’’ Mr. Turnbull considered this structure to have been a palace of Edwin, king of Northumbria, who lived about the year 620, and whose kingdom then embraced Berwickshire— relying for that view a good deal on one of its names, Kdin’s Hall. Mr. R. Chambers, who is no inconsiderable authority in such matters, disputes this theory, and considers that the name is more properly Eetin’s Hald,—according to the testimony of old inhabitants ; and as Eetin is an old Scotch word for a giant or monster who had an insatiable appetite for red or raw flesh, Mr. Chambers’ view received 248 Annwersary Address. considerable support from the legend to which I have just referred.* | | It is perhaps premature to be speculating on the origin of the building before all its parts have been accurately ex- amined ‘and described, and until every source of informa- tion as to its original shape and dimensions has been exhausted. There are two features in the building which are very peculiar—viz., cel/s in the middle of the thick wall sur- rounding the central building;—and square holes in the interior court. On the occasion of our visit, a gentleman was present, who said that he remembered visiting the place about the year 1811, and at that time, the thick wall was about eight or ten feet high, and that two of the cells in the wall were covered at the top by one stone overlapping another. The square holes in the interior court, I see no notice taken of by Mr. Turnbull or any other writer. Mr, R. Chambers in his paper suggested that if the interior court were trenched a few feet, there would probably be found weapons or other articles which had been left by the primitive occupants, and he strongly urged, that at all events an attempt should be made to clear the place of rub- bish, and means taken to preserve with scrupulous care all that remained of this singular building. These views being participated in by those members of the club who visited the place last August, the subject was brought before the meet- ing of the club held shortly afterwards at Alnwick, when it was resolved to appoint a Committee to attend to the matter, and raise a special fund by subscriptions. It is to be hoped that such a Committee will do important service in not only preserving this curious and unique relic from further mutila- tion, but in ascertaining some additional information which will throw light on its origin. Our Secretary in his minute of our meeting, mentions, that after we had examined this ancient structure, we ascended to * Dr. Leyden says, ‘‘ The red Etin is still a popular character in Scotland ; and according to the vulgar etymology, his name is always represented as an insatiable gormandiser on red or raw flesh.” Annversary Address. 249 the top of Cockburnlaw, when an explanation was given by Mr. Stevenson of Dunse and myself of the geological forma- tions which were in view from this elevated spot. I may here give the following outline of what can be seen. Ist. Cockburnlaw itself, in its highest portion consists of silurian or greywacke strata, considerably altered by heat. 2nd. The lower part of the hill, at least on its east side, and the adjoin- ing hill of Stansheil consists of sienitic porphyry of a reddish colour. 38rd. The strata along the river Whiteadder at Cockburn Mill consist of old red sandstone, containing scales of the Hyloptychius Nobilissimus ;—a fish which generally characterizes that formation. A little above Cockburn Mill, a very distinct junction of the two formations is seen,—the red horizontal strata lying over the upturned edges of the greywacke. 4th. Above these old red strata, le what our Secretary has not improperly called the Tuedian formation, consisting of a series of blue marls and sandstones, which abound in Berwickshire, and dip under the Berwick coalfield. 5th. The low hills on the south, towards Dunse, consist of greenstone and basalt. 6th. The district especially to the south is overspread largely with boulders, gravel, and sand, —both boulders and gravel indicating, by the character of the rocks, that they have come from the westward. Perhaps I may here mention, that at the late meeting of the British Association at Manchester, I gave an account of those remarkable deposits of gravel and sand, known in Berwickshire under the name of “ The Kaims,” some of which can be distinguished from the top of Cockburnlaw. The best instances which I know of these kaims, are in the woods behind Dunse Castle, and on the moors north of Greenlaw. The account which I read at Manchester drew forth into discussion several experienced Irish geologists, who gave instances of similar ridges or embankments of gravel and sand, running continuously 15 miles or more across flat parts of Ireland. The unanimous opinion of those who joined in the discussion was, that all these deposits were formed be- fore the land emerged from the sea. The theory which I had 200 Anniversary Address. suggested was, that they were formed, when the land was in the act of being elevated, the rush of waters which resulted, removing the detritus in most places, and leaving elongated banks in others. But the general opinion was adverse to this view. It was thought more probable, that they had been formed by the action of currents and tides before the land emerged, just as submarine banks or spits are now forming in our existing seas. The Kaims of Dunse Castle and Green- law, are at a height of about 750 feet above the sea. Before concluding these comments suggested by our meet- ing at Cockburnlaw, I cannot forbear mentioning, how much the party enjoyed the ride over the moors, rough and jolting though it was. By the courtesy of farmers in the neighbour- hood, two long carts had been provided, well padded with bags of clean straw,—each of which was drawn by a pair of _ beautiful horses, gaily caparisoned, and driven by steady well dressed ploughmen. Though our equipages were homely in character, they suited well the moorland roads, and they allowed us to have a better view of the landscape with its varied attractions. The heather was at the time in full bloom, diffusing its pleasant fragrance over the hills. Ivy clustered on the trees and precipices, sometimes hanging from them in graceful drapery. Lichens and mosses of various tribes, coated the grey boulders of whinstone. Ferns also were in profusion ;—some of minute and delicate forms pushing out from the crevices of old walls ;—others, more showy, with long arching fronds ;—and lastly the tall brachens, clothing the sandy knolls with their shining yellow stems and glossy foliage. What all of us admired most were the fox-gloves,* —both the white and the purple species, with their finger- shaped flowers, strung in rows as regularly as the beads of a necklace. In the shaded and sheltered dells, the slender stalks stood erect, and motionless :—in spots more exposed, * “Mr. Carr of Hedgeley, so well known to our members for his acquaintance with Saxon literature, informs me, that the true name of this plant, is Folks- Glove,—from the Saxon “ foles-glovas,’’ meaning the gloves of the good folks, or fairies. Annwersary Address. 251 they ever and anon drooped their heads and lifted them again, or swung from side to side, as the wind blew them about. These beautiful plants, so well calculated to impress the heart with God’s wisdom and beneficence, may well be likened— To matin worshippers, who bending lowly Before the rising sun, God’s sleepless eye, Send from their chalices a sweet and holy Incense up on high ; ’Neath cluster’d boughs, each floral bell that swingeth And tolls its perfume on the passing air, Makes Sabbath in the fields, and ever ringeth A call to prayer. In contemplating the scenery of our route, much as we were struck with the variety of objects which made up the landscape,—hills, streams, rocky banks, gentle slopes, trees, wild plants and flowers,—we were I think quite as much impressed with the wonderful way in which these objects all blended and harmonized with one another. How impossible is it for man even with the highest skill in gardening, and with a full command of forms and colours, to accomplish similar results! At Chatsworth, the princely seat of the Duke of Devonshire, the taste of Sir Joseph Paxton has been exhausted in attempting to produce an imitation of rural scenery, with which view, great boulders and huge pieces of rough rock have been collected, grouped together, clothed with flowers, ferns, and mosses, and enlivened with sparkling water-falls. But the eye accustomed to the truth and beauty of nature, soon detects the imposition ; and this part of the grounds on which so much expense and ingenuity have been lavished, excites surprise more than admiration. In passing Akeyside, Dr. Hood of Maines pointed out to the party a patch of natural oak trees. It is a remnant of the forest which in former days covered a large part of the east of Berwickshire ; evidence of which is afforded by the names of many other places in the district,—as Houndwood, Green- wood, Swinewood, Brocklewood, Laixwood, Handaxwood, Harewood. It was one of the royal forests, in which the Scottish kings exercised their right of hunting, and for the 202 Anmversary Address. care of which a Forester was appointed, who had certain ptivileges bestowed on him. One of these privileges, as ex- pressed in the royal charter, was “‘ Meat and drink to the Forester and his man, and horse meat when he shall come to the house of the Lord Prior, (7. e. of Coldingham,) with a robe fit for a gentleman, to wear when he attends the said Lord Prior at Christmas yearly.”” A more substantial per- quisite was given to the Forester, under the following clause, ** A threave of oats from every husband land of the farms of the said lordship of Coldingham ; for every waggon of wood, 4 pennies ; for every horse draught, 1 penny; for every log of oak drawn with oxen, 4 pennies, and wood hens due according to custom.” It happens that my wife inherits this office of Forester, so that she and I have no small interest in the privileges and perquisites belonging to it. Unfortunately, as there is no longer now a Lord Prior to attend upon at Christmas, we do not receive the annual present of a 1obe ;— and as the forest also has ceased to exist, we do not receive the pennies payable for the various loads of trees which might be drawn away by horses and oxen. But we still con- tinue to receive the threave of oats for many a husband land in the lordship. I may here mention, as a circumstance bear- ing on the state of agriculture in this part of Berwick- shire in early times, that the proprietors in the neighbour- hood of this great forest had a right of taking wood for what was called “ harrow, barrow, soam and trolsie,’”’-—har- row being the implement for cultivating their land,—barrow a vehicle for carrying articles,—soam the shafts, and trolsie some parts of the harness for oxen or horses. This informa- tion was given to me by the late Mr. Bishop of Restonhill, who had long lived in the east of Berwickshire and knew its traditions well. Alnwick Meeting.—< A united meeting of the Berwick- shire and Tyneside Naturalists’ Clubs, was held at Alnwick, on the 29th of August, 1861. The wish to cultivate good fellowship among the members of the two clubs, and the liberal grant of the Duke of Northumberland, in throwing Anniversary Address. 253. open his castle, museums and grounds to the meeting, brought together an unusually large assemblage. Upwards of 40 members and visitors connected with this club were present. The ordinary business of the club was transacted after breakfast. His Grace the Duke of Northumberland, on the proposition of the president, was elected a member of the club. The members proposed at the last meeting were elected ; and the following nominations were made, viz. :—Mr. Wm. Cun- ningham, Coldstream; Mr. Thos. Fryer, Grindon Ridge; Mr. Wm. Wightman, Wooler; Rev. Court Granville, Aln- wick ; Mr. Thos. Landale, Temple Hall, Coldingham ; Mr. Robert Oliver, Lockside, Yetholm ; Mr. Wm. Dallas, York. The dilapidated condition of Edin’s Hall, in Berwickshire, was brought before the meeting, and it was resolved, that an effort be made to have this interesting antiquity cleared out and protected, and that the owner be requested to grant per- mission to the club for these objects. A circular was adopted, addressed to the members and others interested in the exam- ination and preservation of antiquities, asking subscriptions to defray the expenses of excavation and walling; and a committee, with Mr. Turnbull of Abbey St. Bathans, as con- vener, Was appointed to superintend and report. The party proceeded to Alnwick castle, and were conducted through this magnificent building, and had an opportunity of examining the extensive restorations recently made, and the splendid decorations of the interior. The museum of British antiquities was visited, where there are many instructive relics of the ancient British people, several Roman altars and sculptured stones, and a fine Saxon cross, taken from the ruined church of Alnmouth, and which has, besides sculp- tured figures, an inscription of a mixed Saxon and Runic char- acter. His Grace received the party with great courtesy in his Egyptian museum, and very kindly gave an interesting exposition of the various antiquities there, illustrating the religion, history, and ordinary life of the Egyptians. After leaving the castle, the party was divided into two; one went through Hulne Park, and examined, in their route, 954 Anniversary Address. the remains of Alnwick and Hulne Abbeys. Near to the Forest Lodge, they saw an ancient British cist or sepulchre which had recently been uncovered ; a fine urn now pre- served in Alnwick eastle, found in this grave, shows the burial to have been in the latter part of the Celtic period. The other party took the route to Ratcheugh Crag, where the great basaltic “whin sill” is seen in two distinct stratums or intruded masses, with beds of limestone and shale between them. The basalt is rudely columnar. The lower stratum or mass, is at the north part of the section, 80 feet in thick- ness, with a dip south-eastward ; but towards the south end of the section, it dwindles down to two feet in thickness, prov- ing that it is not a regular continuous stratum, but a wedge- shaped mass intruded amongst the mountain limestone beds ; and accordingly we find, that the heated igneous basalt has metamorphosed the shale below into porcelain jasper, and the limestone above into crystalline marble. This basalt ranges through the county from Kyloe Crags on the north, to Glen- whelt on the south ; its relative position among the limestone strata is not the same throughout its course ; for in one part a well-recognised limestone sill is immediately above it, and in other parts, many fathoms below it. All were re-united at dinner, the president of this—the senior club—occupying the chair, and Dr. Johnston—presi- dent of the Tyneside club—officiating as vice-chairman. After papers had been read by members of the Tyneside Club, a report was read by Mr. Tate on the remains of an old Celtic town on Greaves Ash, near Linhope, with an account of excavations made there and in similar structures in the valley of the Breamish. Mr. Wm. Boyd read notes of plants and insects observed, new to the district. Mr. Williamson gave an account of oyster and mussel beds, now being arti- ficially formed at Alnmouth for the benefit of the fishermen, at the expense of his Grace the Duke of Northumber- land. The members of both clubs, in a kindly spirit, freely mingled with each other; and it is hoped the effect will be Annwersary Address. 255 to strengthen both bodies and promote friendly cooperation in carrying on their common objects.” Our meeting at ALNwick was signalized by the oppor- tunity there afforded to us, of social intercourse with the Tyneside Natural History Club—a club having objects simi- lar to ours, and which I believe was originated by some of our own members resident in Northumberland. It afforded I am sure, great pleasure to members of both clubs to have this opportunity. New acquaintances were thereby formed, between persons of congenial tastes and similar pursuits. Useful information and good hints were interchanged, and above all, encouragement was given in the pursuit of our common objects by the mere presence of so large a staff of persons devoted to them. I trust that the precedent set at Alnwick will be followed, so that one of our summer meetings may always be held at some place where another club like our own, may unite with us for the day’s proceedings. In the minutes of this meeting, notice is most properly taken of the liberality and courtesy of the Duke of North- umberland, in not only throwing open to the members of both clubs, his splendid old castle, and its park and gardens, but in himself condescending to meet the members in his Egyp- tian Museum, and there give an address to a numerous audience on the objects there preserved, most of which had been collected by him when in Egypt. On the conclusion of this address, I took it upon me, as president of the senior club,—at the suggestion of some of our members,—to return thanks to his Grace, and to inform him that our club, as the only acknowledgment which it had power to offer for his kindness and patronage, had that morning suspended its rules in regard to the admission of new members, in order that we might have the privilege and honour of electing him a member of the club. His Grace was pleased to say that he was much gratified by the compliment we had paid to him, and was very happy to have become a member of the Ber- wickshire Naturalists’ Club. 256 Anniversary Address. After dinner an interesting communication was made by Mr. Williamson, in regard to the operations which he was carrying on at the mouth of the river Aln, for forming mussel beds. The object is to supply bait to the fishermen along that part of the coast. Mr. Williamson mentioned, that on the employment of the Duke of Norfolk, on the coast of Sus- sex, he had succeeded in multiplying not only mussels but oysters, and he had little doubt of the possibility of doing so on any part of the coast, where the sea bottom was suitable. Knowing as I do the great difficulty which has been for some years experienced by the fishermen of Berwickshire and East Lothian in procuring bait,—for which they are actu- ally obliged now to go to the west coast of Scotland,—l ex- pressed my sense of the great importance, in a national point of view, of Mr. Williamson’s operations, and requested that he would furnish me with a written statement of his opera- tions, that I might bring them under the notice of the Scotch Fishery Board. I may add, that the formation of these mussel beds at the mouth of the Aln, affords an additional instance of the public spirit and the princely munificence of the Duke of Northumberland. He has supplied life-boats to a number of places along the rocky shores of the east coast ;—he has set up barometers on a very large size, to warn the fishermen of coming storms ;—and now he is forming mussel beds to enable these industrious classes to procure bait for carrying on their trade. Truly Northumberland should be thankful to have at its head a nobleman of such enlightened philanthropy. Our minutes take notice of the excursion to Ratcheugh Crag, where a most interesting geological address was given, explan- atory not only of the Crag itself with its basalt, limestone, and other strata, but also of the surrounding country. The modesty of our Secretary has prevented him mentioning that this geo- logical exposition was given by him; and as no member of the club is so well informed as he is in the principles of geology, or better acquainted with the district, it is scarcely necessary to add, that the exposition was most instructive. Anniversary Address. O57 The principal business after dinner was the reading of our Secretary’s report on the explorations made on the ancient British town of Greaves Ash. As I have already adverted to this subject, I need only now observe, that the account given of the town, and of the discoveries which had been made in it, was most masterly, and that the conclusions come to by the author, were such as to draw forth from several members of great experience in antiquarian researches, both approbation and concurrence. If this report on Greaves Ash is published in our Transactions, as I hope it will be, it will I am sure be read with the greatest interest, and add much to the credit of our club. Having no further comments to offer on any of the proceed- ings at our summer meetings, I shall offer a few communica- tions of a miscellaneous nature, the result partly of my own observation, partly of that of others. 1. I bring before the club a letter addressed to me by Dr. Hood of Maines, relating the legend connected with Edin’s or Etin’s Hall on Cockburnlaw, to which I have already alluded. The legend supposes the place to have been occu- pied by a giant, some of whose exploits in carrying off sheep and cattle to be devoured by him, are recorded. The legend is interesting, as showing how all tradition of the true origin and use of the structure had been lost in a remote antiquity. The same letter gives a short account of the old castle at Bunkle, and adverts to some historical events with which it is associated. 2. I bring before the club a letter addressed to me by Captain Maclaren, of Coldstream, describing an ancient stone coffin, discovered some years ago in that town; which Cap- tain Maclaren had preserved, and which is now in, his pos- session. Both of these letters were written at my request, consider- ing as I did, that it was desirable to have a written record of the facts mentioned in them: and I take leave to say, that members might do much to forward the objects of the club, if whenever they hear of any facts of an interesting nature, they 258 Annwersary Address. would endeavour to procure a written memorandum of them however brief, to be recorded in our transactions. 3. I bring before the club a short report which I have drawn up of some caves on the estate of Mr. Paton of Crail- ing, in the county of Roxburgh, visited by our Secretary and myself a few weeks ago. These caves belong to the same class as the caves to which Professor Simpson refers in his address to the Scotch Antiquarian Society, when he asks, “ What is the age of the rock caves of Ancrum, Hawthornden, &c., and were they primarily used as human habitations?” To that enquiry of the President of the Antiquarian Society, I think my report on the Crailing caves furnishes an answer. 4. I bring before the club another short notice of an old Border camp on my property at Milne Graden, and situated on the north bank of the river Tweed. In various parts of the Tweed, and especially where the river was fordable, such camps existed. It seems to me desirable to preserve some record of them. In conclusion, I beg to offer for the consideration of the meeting a few remarks, bearing not so much on the objects of the club, as on its constitution and management. Ist. We have to thank the managers of the North Eastern and North British railway companies for the liberal manner in which they allow the members of our club to travel to and from our places of meeting. They grant to us a privilege which no other persons receive, of return tickets at one fare and a sixth, available for two days. Were it not for the rail- way, it would be impossible for usto hold meetings over so — large an area of country, as that which the club embraces ; and when members attending these meetings are enabled to travel for little more than half of the expense charged to the general public, the club feels, and they have authorized me as their President to say, that we are much indebted to the managers of the railways for their liberality. 2nd. We consider also, that it would be a respectful and becoming act on the part of our club formally to thank Lord Ravensworth, the Duke of Roxburgh, and the Duke of Annwwersary Address. 259 Northumberland, for so courteously throwing open their splendid mansions, gardens, museums, and policies for the inspection of the members of our club. The rare and costly nature of the property at these princely places, enhances the value of the privilege which was accorded to us, and which I am sure was thoroughly appreciated by every member who availed himself of it. 3rd. Would it not be a great advantage were ladies to be admitted as ordinary members of the club? At our Alnwick meeting, we had the pleasure of seeing several ladies, at breakfast and at dinner, as well as during the excursions of the day, taking especial interest in our proceedings. When at Manchester a few weeks ago, attending the meeting of the British Association, I was struck with the fact, that at every one of the sections, even during the driest scientific discussions, ladies formed a large proportion of the audience, and at one of the sections a paper was read, of which a lady was the author. The soirées showed the ladies to form al- ways a decided majority. One of these evening meetings was at the invitation and under the auspices of the Manchester Field Naturalists’ Club, a society which devotes itself to the pursuit chiefly of Botany and Entomology. This society by its rules allows ladies to join it as ordinary members ; and it appears that about one fourth of its whole members consists of ladies,—the wives, sisters, or daughters of the gentlemen members of the club. Now I do not suppose that the tastes and qualifications of the Lancashire ladies as members of a naturalist club, are superior to those in our own Border dis- trict. I know several ladies in my own county who would gladly join our club, on account of some of the objects which our club encourages. ‘The claims of the fair sex to codperate with us in these objects, our club has already so far recognised, as to have admitted three ladies to be Honorary members, and received from them communications, which have been pub- lished in our transactions. I suggest that the club should go only one step further, and admit ladies to become or- dinary members. I feel assured that the popularity and Rr 260 Anmwersary Address. efficiency of our club would be greatly promoted by such a measure. 4th. Is it not right that considering the great change which has taken place since the formation of the club, in its objects, and in its sphere of operation, some change should be made in its name? The title of the Berwickshire Naturalists’ club, is no longer suitable to its present condition; for we culti- vate many other branches besides natural history,—antiqui- ties, geology, meteorology, and chemistry; and we do not confine our meetings to Berwickshire. Looking therefore to what our club actually is and does, our name is not quite consistent with truth ; and what is more, it is prejudicial to the club, because persons residing beyond Berwickshire might wish to join us, who refrain from doing so, thinking that the club is appropriated to that county ;—and persons who care nothing for natural history, but who are fond of some of the other subjects to which we attend, also refrain from join- ing, supposing that we are solely a natural history club. To obviate this incongruity and these practical evils, I would respectfully suggest the adoption of some more general name, such as the Eastern Border Society. In now retiring from the President’s chair, allow me to congratulate you all on the continued prosperity and growing reputation of the club, and to express the great satisfaction and enjoyment, as well as the instruction and profit which I have received, in attending the meetings of the club during the past summer. I have only further to announce that, in the exercise of the prerogative which belongs to the President, I hereby nominate as President of the club for next year, John Boyd, Esq., Cherrytrees, who is well known to all of us as long having been a zealous member of the club, and as being well ac- quainted with several branches of natural history. 261 KELSO. By Joun Stuart, Sec. §.A. Scot., Edinburgh. Amone the earliest of those many religious foundations by which David, the first king of the Scots of that name, became so illustrious, was the Abbey of Selkirk. While yet only styling himself ‘“‘ David the earl, son of Malcolm king of the Scots,” by a charter probably of the date 1113, he founded a monastery at Selkirk, in honor of St. Mary and St. John the Evangelist. Here he planted a colony of Benedictine monks from the Abbey of Tiron, and to this foundation he dedicated many lands and fishings both in Scotland and England. Whether the saintly David was drawn to place the Abbey in this spot by the memory of some earlier foundation, as was the case at Melrose, or whether it was merely to be near the castle in his forest of Selkirk, which he then occupied, can- not now be determined. But if we are to hold that Sele-Kirk means something like holy or happy church, it is not im- probable that the early sanctity of the spot may have been a leading motive with David. We are at least certain that one early offshoot from Lindisfarne took root at Melrose in the same neighbourhood, while it seems probable that another Saxon “ familia” was settled at Jedburgh, before the middle of the ninth century. We learn also from Venerable Bede, that the holy Cuthbert, after he became Prior of Melrose, was wont to traverse this district, preaching the gospel to the people in the villages and hill-sides, being absent from his monastery in these duties, oftentimes a week and sometimes even a month. We learn also from Reginald* the monk of Durham, who wrote about the middle of the twelfth century, that of the many churches founded in honor of S. Cuthbert, there was one on the Slitrig, a chapel of the mother church of Cavers, neighbouring with Hawick. Here various miracles were wrought by the Saint, of which Reginald got an account from Dolfin the parson and others—from one of which we gather the fact, that in the burial ground around the church there stood a stone with a cavity on its top, which was always filled with rain mixed with holy water. In Reginald’s time, the stone walls of the building yet remained, but it had for * Reginaldi Monach. Dunelm. Libell., p. 291. 262 Mr. Stuart on Kelso. long been without a roof, so that the foundation probably was an old one.* | But from whatever cause David was induced to fix on Sele- Kirk as the site of his monastery, it did not remain there be- yond a few years; for in 1126, being two years after David’s accession to the Scottish throne, he translated the monastery to Kelso, on the ground that the former situation had not * It is not to be wondered at that the country on the banks of the Tweed and Teviot should have memorials of the sainted Cuthbert, to whose early labours the rude people who dwelt there and among the adjacent hills owed so much; and perhaps we need not account for the early occurrence of the churches dedi- cated in the name of the saint by the reason provided for us by John Wessyng- ton, Prior of Durham, who asserts that in general, wherever a church was in after days dedicated to St. Cuthbert, there the body of the saint had rested in the course of its numerous wanderings. At Old Melrose, a chapel dedicated to St. Cuthbert arose on the ruins of the first monastery, and became famous as a resort of pilgrims. Further down the stream, we find a dedication to the saint at Norham, and there his body did rest on its wanderings. At the church of this place, as we learn from Reginald of Durham, was preserved a cross made of the wood of a table upon which St. Cuthbert had been in the way of eating his meals, and upon which the people of that neighbourhood were accustomed to Swear when an oath was required. The same writer tells us that a school was kept in the church of Norham, according to a custom ‘‘ now common enough and recognized.’”’ On a fine peninsula formed by the confluence of the Till and Tweed, are the ruins of a small chapel called St. Cuthbert’s Chapel, and here was to be seen till lately a stone coffin, which has been called by some a boat of stone, on which St. Cuthbert’s relics were floated down the stream from Mel- rose; but as one of the most careful historians of St. Cuthbert * has stated that this story is little better than a modern fiction, it is hardly worth alluding to. Then in Teviotdale is the chapel of Slitrig, in the parish of Cavers, to which I have referred above. This chapel, although roofless, was much frequented on St. Cuthbert’s day, by the aged, for devotional purposes, and by the young for dancing and other amusements On one of these occasions, a great storm of wind and rain and snow arose, which drove all to take shelter within the ruined chapel, where they spent the night, and although in the morning the ground outside was found washed by torrents of rain and covered with snow, yet within the sacred limits not a drop of rain nor a flake of snow had fallen. On another occasion, when William king of the Scots had wasted Northumberland, a per- son called Hugh Flamang, residing at Maltune near York, took flight from his own abode and took refuge in Teviotdale. Having left all his goods at home, after a time he began to wish to look after them, but dared not stir for fear of the enemy. At last he had recourse to St. Cuthbert, who appeared to him when sleeping, after he had paid his devotions in the chapel of Slitrig. The saint in answer to his prayers, told him to go in the morning to a hollowed stone out- side the chapel in the cemetery and take a portion of the moss which would be found adhering to it, and which, as Reginald tells us, naturally grows in vessels generally filled with water. This moss he was ordered to put under his hood on his head, and then he would be under the saint’s protection, and might return to his home. Having done all this, he was enabled to pass through the ranks of his enemies without their being able to see him, and so he returned to Maltune. Among other memorials of St. Cuthbert, it may be noticed, that payments used to be made to the convent of Kelso on the day of his festival. ® Raine’s St. Cuthbert, p. 44 (note), Durham, 1828, Mr. Stuart on Kelso. 263 been found convenient. Two years after this the conventual church of the new abbey was founded, and endowed with in- creased revenues. The spot on which this foundation was made, was in the neighbourhood of the great castle of Rox- burgh, said to have been erected by the Northumbrian princes, and probably occupying the site of a fortress of still earlier date. Here David had a manor of Roxburgh, and here he often resided both while earl, and after he had ascended the throne of his father. A church dedicated to the blessed Virgin stood at Kelso, before the translation of the abbey thither, ana was given to the king and the abbey, by Robert bishop of St. Andrews, in whose bishopric it was. Of the fabric which was thus founded in 1128, and which probably took many years to finish, we can now only judge by fragments and ruins. Enough however remains to attest the richness and stability of the architecture, and the grandeur of the general plan. The style of architecture has been de- scribed as almost wholly “ transitional Romanesque of late florid character.”* The following are the dimensions of the remains of the church— Length of transept within the walls, 71 feet. Breadth of the same, 23 feet. Height of the central tower, 91 feet. Thickness of the walls of the same, 5 feet 6 inches. Height of the pointed arches under the tower, 45 feet. Width of the same, 17 feet. Diameter of the columns in the choir, 7 feet. The situation of Kelso on the borders of two kingdoms so often at war with each other,t naturally exposed it to many vicissitudes of fortune, and from the time of the first Edward downwards, we find it frequently reduced to ruin and beg- gary from the attacks of rough-handed neighbours. In 1344 David II. granted permission “ to the Abbey of Kelcow being burnt by England, to cut wood in Selkirk and Jedwart * Characteristics of old church architecture in Scotland, p. 7. Edin. 1861. + In later times we find some tokens of the necessities which rose out of the rough habits of the marchers. Thus on 26 Oct. 1557, there is a letter under the Privy Seal of Scotland to “‘ Patrik Hardy chirurgiane burges of Jedburgh,” setting forth “‘ how neidful it was to have scherurgianes and Barbouris on the borders, especially in time of war,” and the good qualities of Patrik in these respects, and therefore granting to him ‘‘ane monkis portioun within her graces Abbey of Melrose with fische, flesche, habit, siluer, fyre, chalmer, coll, candill, breid, drink, victellis and vthir stuffe siclike as ony monk of the said Abbey has.”’ 264 Mr. Stuart on Kelso, forests for reparation,”’* and we find that on such occasions the monks were at times in such distress, that they had to get licence to buy provisions in England, as in 1368, when the abbey is described as “‘ collapsa et quasi adnichilata.”+ We may form some idea of the rough life to which a border abbot was exposed, when we read that on the night after the battle of Flodden, Andrew Ker of Fernieherst broke into the Abbey of Kelso, and having turned the abbot out of doors, forcibly kept possession of it.t In the final destruction of — the monastery, the Scottish reformers were mostly anticipated by the Earl of Hertford, whose invasion of Scotland in 1544 was made memorable by the merciless burnings and ravages which accompanied it. In 1546, we find from Lord Eure’s report to Henry VIII., that he took the church of Kelso which had again been garrisoned, and wherein were 31 foot- men. In June of the same year, when another inroad took place of the garrison of Mack, it appears that the ruins were again occupied, and that sixteen men were taken who “ had beilditt them a strength in the old walles of the steple.”’ || Nevertheless it appears that some part of the church con- tinued to be used as a place of worship till after the Reform- ation,§ and the conventual buildings still afforded shelter to a remnant of the monks “ for in one of the tumults which took place in 1560, when the monks had been expelled, the church drew the attention of the excited populace, who in their headlong zeal, not content with having defaced the images and burned the reliques upon the steps of the high altar, demolished also whatever else remained of its internal furniture and ornaments, and destroyed still further the al- ready ruinous fabric.”§ We find that in 1587 all the monks were dead, and after the possessions of the abbey had passed through several lay hands, they were finally conferred on Sir Robert Ker of Cessford, who in 1599 was created a peer by the style of Lord Roxburgh, and is the ancestor of the pre- sent Duke of Roxburgh. | The munificence of its founder as well as of the great barons of Teviotdale and the Merse, at an early period raised the abbey of Kelso to be one of the most wealthy of Scottish monasteries. Their lands were numerous, and we learn much of their mode of managing them, from the register of their * Robertson’s Index to the Charters, p. 63. Edin. 1798. + Rotuli Scotie, vol. i., p. 924. t Morton’s Monastic Annals of Teviotdale, p. 96. { Ib. p. 103. § Ib. p. 103. { Ib. p. 106. Mr. Stuart on Kelso. 265 charters, as in the thirteenth century many of them were held in demaine. On their land they raised oats barley and wheat. About the year 1300 their property in Redden, one of their granges, was as follows:—The grange which they tilled with five ploughs, and where they had pasture for four- teen score of ewes besides oxen; half a plough-gate, which was let to Richard of the Holm; eight husband-lands and one ox-gang, for each of which certain bond services were performed by the tenant at stated times, namely, every week in summer a journey to Berwick with one horse, which was to carry three bolls of corn, and return either with two bolls of salt, or one boll and a ferloch of coals, and on the next day after every such journey, one day’s work of whatever kind might be wanted. When not required to go to Berwick, they wrought two days in summer and three in autumn. To stock his little farm each husbandman received two oxen and a horse, three chalders of oats, six bolls of barley, and three of wheat. The abbot Richard afterwards commuted these services for money, when they gave back their stock and each paid eighteen shillings per annum for his land. Nineteen cottages, eighteen of which were let for twelvepence a year, and six days’ work in autumn, during which they were found in food, which they were also when they assisted in washing and shearing the sheep; the nineteenth cottage paid eight- eenpence a year and nine days’ work. ‘They had also two brew-houses, which paid two marks a year, and a miln which paid nine merks.”’* Another great source of the monastic revenues, arose from the parishes granted to them by their various owners. These parishes instead of enjoying the advantages of a resident clergy, spending on the spot the revenues of the church, were served by ill-paid vicars and chaplains of the monastery, so that the working of the parochial system was thus frustrated at an early period of its development. Among the arts practised in the monastery was that of caligraphy, which was so often applied in religious houses to service-books, to chronicles, charters, and the registers of them, ‘and we find that some of the most elegant of the charters of David I. and his grandsons issued from the scrip- torium of Kelso. The most remarkable of these, and as a writing the most remarkable of Scotch charters, is the great charter of Malcolm IV., granted to the abbey in 1159, which * Morton p. 114. 266 Mr. Stuart on Kelso. is still preserved at Floors. It is carefully and even hand- somely written; but its chief interest is derived from an illuminated initial M, which gives us a favourable idea of the art of miniature painting practised in the monastery, and perpetuates a pair of the earliest Scotch portraits that have come down to us. There is no reason to doubt that the two personages represented with the insignia of royalty in this remarkable illumination are King David I., the founder and great benefactor of the abbey, who had died full of years and of honour six years before, and his grandson Malcolm LY. the reigning sovereign, the granter of the charter, whose youth- ful and beardless face contrasts with the venerable counte- nance of his grandfather, and accounts for his soubriquet of “the maiden,” better than the refuted tradition of his vow of chastity.* At the Reformation of religion in Scotland, when the monasteries were dissolved, the revenues of Kelso, according to an account taken by the government, were as follows— £3716 Is. 2d., Scots money. 9 chalders of wheat. 106 chald. 12 bolls of bear. 4 chald. 11 bolls of oats. 112 chald. 12 bolls, 3 firlots of meal. The abbot was mitred, his lands were erected into a regal- ity, and he was exempt from episcopal jurisdiction; a Bull of Pope Lucius III. declared, that if any archbishop, bishop, or other prelate should presume to promulgate sentences of excommunication, suspension, or interdict at any time against any of the men of the abbey, such sentences should be of no effect.+ After having examined the ruined walls of the abbey, a short walk up the Tweed leads to a ridge in the angle formed by the junction of the Teviot with the silver waters of her more important sister. On this ridge stand the fragments of the great castle of Roxburgh, within whose walls many events of great and national importance have been at various times transacted. 'The remains of its shattered towers yet attest its great strength, and in ancient times the town of Roxburgh arose around its sheltering walls and became itself a place of mercantile and political importance. At the castle of Roxburgh, David I. and his successors frequently kept * Registrum Cartarum de Kelso. Pref. p. xly. Edin. 1846. + Ib. p. 359. Mr. Stuart on Kelso. ; 267 their court ; here legates were received, royal marriages were . celebrated, parliaments and councils were held, a mint was established, and in this fortress Mary, the sister of king Robert Bruce was kept, by orders of Edward I., in ap iron cage, from 1306 to 1310. While the castle was in the pos- session of the English, it was besieged by James II. of Scot- land, and it was here that this monarch met his death by the bursting of one of his cannon. A large holly enclosed by a wall is said by Pennant to mark the spot, which elsewhere is said to be near Floors House. It was at Roxburgh that Mal- colm the maiden granted his great charter of endowment to Kelso, and it may afford an idea of the varied elements of his court, when we find around him as witnessing his grant, among others the three bishops of Glasgow, Moray, and Dun- keld, William the king’s brother and Ada his mother, the abbots of Dunfermline, Jedburgh, Newbottle, and Cambus- kenneth, the prior and archdeacon of St. Andrews, the king’s chancellor, the archdeacon of Lothian, the chamberlain, the King of the Isles, several earls, with representatives of the families of Umfraville, Sumerville, Moreyville, Sules, Cumin, Avenel, Ridel, and Percy. We may also imagine the differ- ent races of which his subjects were composed when we find his charters addressed to the Franks, Angles, Scots, and British or Galwenses of his kingdom, while in those early charters Scotia and Lodonia are often distinguished. The burgh of Roxburgh was at one time of such import- ance as to form one of “ the court of the four burghs of Scot- land,” a court believed to have been instituted by David L., with the view of regulating all matters regarding commerce. In this town schools flourished in early days, and we find notices of the master of the schools of Roxburgh in the year 1241. About a century later we get a trace of one of the streets of the burgh, where a chantry (“ for ever to endure,’’) was founded in the church of St. James of Roxburgh, out of a burgage tenement called Blakhall in the Kingstreet of that town—and now nothing material remains to tell us of all the busy life which was for many centuries acted here, and of which without the voice of record we should know nothing. , The members will not fail to examine the remains of the fortified mound called Ringley Hall on the south of the Tweed, a few miles up from Kelso. It is situated on the top of a cliff overhanging the stream, and now forming part of a plantation. It is described as being circular on the top, and measuring about 180 feet in diameter. It seems to have $ 268 Mr. Hardy on the Wolf in Scotland. been defended by several steep terraces, and altogether to have features not ordinarily found in these structures. Of the beauties of the landscape in which Kelso is situated, the members will think it superfluous that I should speak. I may however conclude with the oft quoted lines from Ley- den’s Scenes of Infancy :— Bosom’d in woods where mighty rivers run Kelso’s fair vale expands before the sun ; Its rising downs in vernal beauty swell, And fringed with hazel, winds each flowery dell. Green spangled plains to dimpling lawns succeed, And Tempe rises on the banks of Tweed; Blue o’er the river Kelso’s shadow lies, And copse-clad isles amid the waters rise. ENistory of the Wolf in Scotland. By James Harpy. ‘* But when the Western Empire was o’er-run By Vandal, Goth, and Saracen, and Hun, The fleecy charge and precious milken store, Seem’d swept from off the desolated shore. Far from the dreary night of Gothic gloom, Our northern isles did freedom then relume : Our Scottish foresires, then a shepherd race, Did tend their flocks—or rous’d the cheering chace ; These hills and glens and wooded wilds can tell, How many wolves, and boars, and deers then fell.” CAMPBELL’S Grampians Desolate, p. 102. Or the original animals, which, in the progress of civilization have been extirpated from the country, the Wolf was one of the most formidable. In former times, it appears to have been spread over the greater part of Scotland, a fact attested both by history and tradition ; by the public archives as well as by the names associated with its ravages and haunts. Some antiquarians have been of opinion, that the mode of burying practised by the native Britons or their immediate successors, may have originated in the dread inspired by wolves.* They enclosed, it is conjectured, the urn contain- ing the ashes of their relative, or the corpse itself, with ponderous slabs of stone, as a protection from their infuri- ated appetites. Wolves, as is well known from their history, when constrained by hunger, fall upon the sepulchres of the dead, and riot in the unhallowed spoil. There were un- doubtedly occasions when such precautions were necessary. * Heron’s Journey through part of Scotland, i. p. 217. Mr. Hardy on the Wolf in Scotland. 269 On the western shores of Argyle, the small isle of St. Mungo, still used as a burial place, has been appropriated to this purpose from the days when the wolves were the terror of the land; the passage between it and the main land opposing a barrier, which they in vain attempted to cross.* This scarcely, however, accounts for those old modes of sepulture, adopted by the first inhabitants of Europe, in accordance with the practices of the regions whence they sprung, and carried with them in their migrations, as rites which it would be sacrilege to abandon. It was also a remarkable feature in the history of these primitive people, that many of them, especially those who possessed the intermediate portions of Scotland and England, were by preference hill-men. Not wholly for self-defence would they fix their residences in the outlandish and ex- posed tracts, where we now view with surprise their wretched remains, and the traces of obsolete modes of agriculture. To. these remote uplands they were compelled in some measure to resort, from the low countries being over-run with wild beasts. ‘‘ It is observable,” it has been said, “in many of the highest inhabited places in the Scottish Highlands, that ridges can be distinctly traced near the summit of our most elevated mountains. Some suppose that such appearances of culture are referable to remote times, when, by reason of the valleys being overgrown with woods, which were the haunts of wolves, bears, and enormous snakes, it was necessary for safety to retire to the tops of the hills, and there cultivate those spots, which retain still the appearance of human in- dustry.” t It has been opposed to the authenticity of the Ossianic poems that they omit all allusion to the chace of the wolf— the Madadh alluidh or wild dog of the Caledonian forests.t This objection cannot attach to some of the Scottish histori- ans, whose relations are pronounced to be equally fabulous. To vary their exploits, which are often so uniform that we seem transported to the halls of Odin, where the warriors that fell in the fight of to-day, are re-animated to mingle in the morrow’s combat, their shadowy monarchs engage in * Constable’s Edinburgh Magazine, Nov. 1817, p. 340. t+ Campbell’s Grampians Desolate, p. 167. { Laing. Pinkerton’s Enquiry into the Early Hist. of Scotland, ii. p. 85. ‘‘'Vhe Gaelic names for the_wolf are Madadh alluidh, commonly used ; Faol chu, Alla mhadadh, all of which are composed of an epithet, and a word which now means dog.” It is also called Foul and Mac tire, earth’s son. (Campbell’s Tales of the West Highlands, i. p. 274.) 270 Mr. Hardy on the Wolf in Scotland. splendid hunting matches, in which the wolf figures con- spicuously. Dorvadille or Dornadilla, the fourth king of the Scots, ‘set all his pleasure on hunting and keeping of houndes and greyhounds, ordayning that every householder should find him twoo houndes and one greyhounde.. .. .If a hunter chaunced in following the game to lose an eye or a imme, so. that he were not able to helpe himselfe after that time, he made a statute that he should be founde of the common trea- sory.....He that killed a wolf should have an oxe for his paines. ‘This beast indeede the Scottish men even from the beginning used to pursue in al they might devise, bicause the same is suche an enimie to cattayle, wherein consisted the chiefest portion of all their wealth and substance.”* These are a portion of the hunting laws of the ancient Scots, which according to Buchanan, were observed to his day.t Hderus the fifteenth king’s “ chiefe delighte was altogyther in hunt- ing and keeping of houndes and greyhoundes, to chase and pursue wild beastes, and namely the woolfe the herdsmans foe, by meanes whereuf his advancement was muche the more acceptable amongest the nobles, who in those dayes were whollye gyven to that kynde of pleasure and pastyme.”¢ Merdarius fHgialia globosa Serica brunnea Anomala Frischii Elater minutus », balteatus », holosericeus Anathrotus niger ae vittatus Atopa cervina Cyphon marginatus Telophorus ater aE pulicarius a pallidus As bicolor Baris atriplicis 322 = List of rarer Insects taken by William B. Boyd. Spherula Lythri Mecenus semicylindricus Gymnetron Beccabunge Rhinonchus castor Ceutorhynchus guttula op Quercus Troglodytes Cryptorhynchus Lapathi Orchestes Fagi Tachyerges salicis bs stigma Anthonomus Ulmi Notaris acridulus Dorytomus fumosus 33 salicinus Hypera nigrirostris 3 dissimilis » variabilis Leisomus ovatulus Barynotus mercurialis Sciaphilus muricatus Memoicus oblongus Phyllobius verdicollis Apion carduorum 5, subulatum » immune » punctigerum »» virens Deporaus Betule 35 nanus Salpingus ruficollis Spheriestes ater “5 immaculatus Rhagium bifasciatum Crioceris melanopa Galeruca calmariensis Luperus flavipes Haltica Modeeri », fexuosa », rufipes » Helxines » oleracea Thyamis levis Macronema Sperguli Phedon Betuli 6 cochearize » tumidula ” aucta », fastuosa Taken by Rev. W. Lams, at EKdnam Manse, near Kelso. Sesia fuciformis. Chrysomela Litura Hyperici Helodes Beccabungi Cassida rubiginosa. Chilochrus bipustulatus A renipustulatus Coccinella sedecemguttata 6 oblongo-guttata 5 ocellata a dispar 55 bipunctata Blaps mortisaga Anaspis melanopa Notoxus monoceros Anthicus fuscus Oxypoda luteipennis fe longiuscula Megacronus analis Ischnosoma splendens oh lepidus Bolitobius pigmeus oS angularis Tachyporus testaceus Conurus littoreus Staphylenus nebulosus op pubescens Bs latebricola zenocephalus Raphirus Boops a picipennis . ruficollis Cafius xantholoma Othius pilicornis » angustatus Gyrohypnus cruentatus * sulcifrons Philonthus fulvipes Rugilus orbiculatus Stenus fulvicornis », tenuicornis », lineatulus », Pilosulus » bimaculatus »» Kirbii Bledius subterraneus Acidota rufa Omalium florale Lampyris noctiluca or Glow-worm, frequent on roadsides. Notice of a Roman Quern by James Paterson. 328 Insects taken by Miss Mine, at Otterburn, last summer. Colias edusa, on white clover Cherocampa Porcellus, on Rhodo- Deilephila Euphorbie, on Rhododen- dendron drons Macraglossa stellatarum on Rhodo- dendron. Plant new to the district, found by Mrs. Joun Batrp, of Beaumont Hill. GooDYERA REPENS; in old fir plantation at Graden, and also EPIPACTIS LATIFOLIA in the same wood. Notice of a Roman Quern found at Berwick. By James PATERson. Av our late most interesting Alnwick meeting, the members had an opportunity of inspecting a number of Querns or hand-mills of the ancient British period, and I have the plea- sure of now directing their attention to the under half of a similar instrument of genuine Roman origin. This form of grist-mill is of great antiquity, drawings having been found among the hieroglyphics that cover the stones of ancient Egypt, and descriptions or allusions occurring in the ancient Hebrew Scriptures of mills of the same kind. In Eastern countries they are used to the present day: the singing of the women as they rise early to grind the corn for the need of the day, falling musically upon the ear of the awaking travel- ler. We can hardly view such relics of primitive life without recalling the “two women that shall be grinding at the mill,” the prohibition to “pledge the upper or nether mill- stone,” or the affecting episode in the African history of Mungo Park, when the compassionate negress sung— ‘‘No mother has he to bring him milk, No wife to grind his corn.”’ We believe that Querns are found in this country, dating to many widely-separated epochs—Celtic, Roman, Saxon, Danish, medieval. When Pennant made his tour of Scot- land, at but a comparatively modern date, he found the hand- mill still in use in the remote districts of both Lowlands and Highlands. These implements vary considerably in form ; in some Xx 324 Mr. R. Embleton on Rev. John Baird. cases being quite or nearly flat, in others hemispherical ; and some, as in the one before the meeting, seem to have had a slight edge raised around the lower stone ; while in later ex- amples this is so enlarged, as to make the lower a sort of trough in which the upper moved. That this is of Roman origin is proved by the material—a sort of trachyte from a quarry on the Rhine, and from which all the Roman ones were procured. The members will remember a specimen of the stone from this quarry, lying by the window on the lower floor of the Romano-British Museum at Alnwick Castle, and will recog- nize its identity with the Quern now before them. This Quern was found at Berwick in 1855. While the drainage operations were being prosecuted, an out-fall was made a little to the north-west of the flag-staff by directing a tunnel through the walls and adjoining gardens, a distance of about 55 yards, and about 60 feet from the shore ; and at a depth of 12 feet from the surface, a mass of large boulder stones had to be removed, and with these stones the Quern before the meeting was brought to the shore. Circum- stances prevented its removal at the time, and on my return some time afterwards, no trace of it could be found. On the 29th of August last, when passing along the shore accom- panied by Mr. Murray of Hawick, it was again discovered within a few yards of the spot where, six years ago, it had been laid aside with scrupulous care for preservation. We have therefore I believe, in the stone before us, a relic of the Legionaries of Italy, and from other evidences in our neighbourhood, there is a strong probability that Berwick occupies the site of one of their ancient stations on the banks of the Tueda. Obituary Notice of the Rev. John Baird, of Yetholm. By Rosert EmBieton. Ir is with deep regret, that I have to report to the club, the death of one of its original founders, the Rev. John Baird, of Yetholm. He was the eldest son of the Rev. James Baird, and was born at the manse of Eccles, in the year 1798, and died at Yetholm, on the 29th of November, 1861, in the 63rd year of his age. He received the first rudiments of his educa- tion at home, and subsequently attended the Grammar School at Kelso; from thence he proceeded to the University of Mr. R. Embleton on Rev. John Baird. 325 Edinburgh, where he completed the studies necessary for his future ministerial duties. From overwork, he was attacked with hemoptysis, for the cure of which, a sea voyage was recommended. He proceeded to Gibraltar, the coast of Spain, and Newfoundland, on board a ship of war, where he per- formed the duties of tutor to several midshipmen. On his return, he was licensed by the Presbytery, and went to Ire- land for two or three years, in connection with the Presby- _ terian Church in Ireland. On his return he was ordained to the church at Yetholm, where he continued until his death, a period of 33 years. His health had, for a considerable time, been very precarious, and a visit to Ireland during the past summer was not attended by any improvement. The nature of his disease, seemed very doubtful, but apparently it was some disease of the stomach of a malignant form, which terminated in a state of pure ancemia. As a preacher he was simple, impressive, and at the same time eloquent, and never failed to command the attention of his hearers. His kindliness of heart, and untiring discharge of his duties as a clergyman, his unwearied exertions towards the amelior- ation of the condition of the gipsies, and his services in general towards his people, especially in regard to the young, procured for him the love, confidence, and respect of all classes, and all ages. ‘¢ The service past, around the pious man, With steady zeal, each honest rustic ran ; E’en children followed, with endearing wile, And pluck’d his gown, to share the good man’s smile, His ready smile, a parent’s warmth exprest, Their welfare pleased him, and their cares distrest.’’ In conversation, amongst those he knew, there ran a rich vein of quiet humour, which a stranger would in vain have looked for, under his somewhat quiet and retiring manner. As a botanist and geologist, his knowledge was neither super- ficial nor confined, although of late years he had not pursued either with much zeal. He was chosen President of our club in 1837, and through our transactions are scattered many of his observations. He was the author also of a paper on the Geology of the Rock of Gibraltar and the adjacent country, which was pub- lished in the 7th vol. of the Edinburgh Philosophical Journal ; and of another on the Rocks in the neighbourhood of St. John’s, Newfoundland, printed in the 4th vol. of the Trans- actions of the Wernerian Society. 326 Rey. F. R. Simpson on Celopa frigida. Notice of Celopa frigida, observed at North Sunderland, on February 15th, 1861. By Rev. F. R. Simpson. Avr North Sunderland, on a bright clear day, with the snow scarcely off the ground and the thermometer at 32° Fah., we were visited with a swarm of Flies, (Celopa frigida). They . covered the front of my house, and were thinner on the south side of the church and do not seem to have extended further eastward ; but so dense a swarm crossed the village to the west, as to attract the attention of children and induce them to give chase. The wind was due south, and the course of the Flies was nearly due north. Regarding these Flies Mr. Hardy states that they are identical with Celopa gravis of Haliday, Ent. Mag. i. p. 167. They inhabit marine rejectamenta in vast numbers, at all seasons. The sea had been rough from the 9th to the 12th of February ; this and the snow may have roused them from their haunts. They seldom appear inland; at Holywood near Belfast Bay, Mr. Haliday sometimes found them abun- dant on the flowers in the orchard. At Penmanshiel, three miles froma the sea, Calopa simplex (Hal.), frequents, now and then about April, the blossoms of the sallow. PROCEEDINGS OF THE BERWICKSHIRE NATURALISTS’ CLUB. Address delivered at Berwick on the 26th of September, 1862, By Joun B. Boyn, Esq., of Cherrytrees, President. GENTLEMEN, It has always been a duty imposed on the Pre- sident to give, at this our Anniversary Meeting, a detailed account of the observations and discoveries made by the Club during the past year. I am sorry to say that I have been unavoidably prevented from attending most of the meetings, which, although it deprived myself of much pleasure, is so far fortunate for the club, as it has thrown me entirely on my friend, our able and indefatigable Secretary, Mr. Tate, who has kindly supplied me with minutes of our several meetings, much fuller and more accurate than I could have written, and which, I am happy to say, has rendered my office a sinecure. I have also to thank Mr. D. M. Home for his notes on the Dunse meeting; and Mr. Jerdon, for his botanical observa- tions made at Jedburgh. B.N.C.—VOL. IV. NO. VI. Y 328 Anniversary Address. Our last Anniversary Meeting was held at Berwick, on September 26th, present—The President, Messrs. John Clay, P. Dickson, W. Dickson, R. Douglas, R. Home, J. Landale, W. H. Logan, J. Paterson, W. Stevenson, G. J. Williamson ; J.C. Langlands, J. Church, W. Church; Capt. M‘Laren, and Sir G. Douglas, Bart.; Drs. Douglas and Turnbull; Revds. Dixon Clarke, W. Darnell, W. Greenwell, G. H. Hamilton, John Irwin, and W. Proctor; as visitors, Wm. Darnell, jun., and Wm. Proctor, jun. The accounts for the past year were examined, and the subscription for the next year was fixed at 6s. After examin- ation of the accounts and arrears of subscriptions still unpaid, it was resolved, that the Transactions shall not be sent to members until their arrears be paid. It was also resolved, that those members who are in arrear for three years with their subscriptions, shall cease to be considered members, un- less their arrears be paid within three months after an appli- cation from the secretary. It was also agreed, that at least 500 copies of the Annual Transactions be printed for this year. The times and places of meeting for next year were fixed as follows :—the last Thursday of the months of May, June, July, August, and September :—lIst, at Jedburgh; 2nd, at Berwick; 3rd, at Chatton; 4th, at Dunse; 5th, at Berwick. It was also resolved, that the thanks of the club be given to the Dukes of Roxburgh and Northumberland, for their ereat kindness and courtesy to the club in opening their man- sions and grounds for the benefit of the club. Mr. James Bowhill, banker, Ayton, was proposed as a member of the club. | The President then read his annual address, and nomin- ated as his successor, Mr. Boyd, of Cherrytrees. Mr. Paterson read a paper on a bronze Celt, by Mr. Mur- ray, of Hawick. Mr. Paterson also handed in a paper on a Quern, found in the old walls of Berwick, which he exhibited. The members after breakfast proceeded to the north of the pier, and examined the formation of the strata for a distance Annversary Address. 329 of about two miles, returning by the post road as far as the entrance to Castlegate, when they went down the banks to the river side and returned to the town. The President and Mr. Stevenson accompanied the party, and gave an interest- ing exposition of the geology of the strata. The first Field meeting of the year 1862, was held at Jed- burgh, on the 22nd of May. ‘This being the first visit of the club to this old and interesting Border town, the meeting was well attended, notwithstanding railway arrangements ren- dered it necessary for members, coming from a distance, to arrive at Jedburgh on the day preceding the meeting. There were present :—The President, Messrs. Embleton and Tate, secretaries ; Drs. Douglas, Robson, Scott, Marshall, and Mackenzie ; the Revds. J. Walker of Greenlaw, Wm. Lamb, Wm. Darnell, G. H. Hamilton, and J. win; Messrs. Home, Langlands, F. R. Wilson, J. Scott Dudgeon, Wm. Boyd, Thos. Fryer, Robert Douglas and P. Clay; and as visitors, Mr. Geo. Hilson, Provost of Jedburgh, Messrs. Alex. Jeffrey, Arch. Jerdon, John Hilson, Chas. Anderson, Wm. Elliot, James Cumming, J. B. Kerr, Jas. Tait, Dr, Ballantyne, Mr. Oliver, and Master Marshall. After breakfast at the Spread Eagle hotel, an able paper on Jedburgh was read by Mr. A. Jeffrey, F.S.A., Scot., author of the History of Roxburghshire. ‘The party then proceeded to an old house in Backgate, which, through the courtesy of Miss Armstrong, they were permitted to examine. It is a quaint relic of the fifteenth century, and is especially interesting as having afforded an hospital to the unfortunate Queen Mary, after her visit to Hermitage Castle. The little bed-room occupied by her, during an illness of six weeks, was seen; but a well worn piece of tapestry, laid on the floor, is all that remains of the furniture which was in the room, when she was there. A visit was next paid to the old bridge at the foot of the Canongate, which at one time was guarded by a gate- way, and which tradition says was built before the Abbey. Passing the house, in which the distinguished natural philo- sopher Sir David Brewster was born, the party entered the 330 Anniversary Address. Lady’s yard, formerly the property of the Abbey; and here were seeu several ancient pear trees which had been planted by the monks, and which are still producing fruit in their old age. Under the guidance of Mr. Jeffrey, the fine old Abbey was examined with great interest, and the age of the several parts of the venerable structure was discussed. Situated near the Borders, it was frequently more or less damaged by Border warfare, but having been at different times repaired, the building presents the architectural features of several different ages. The oldest portions are in the late Norman style of the 12th century, of a highly ornate character ; the doors, especially the northern one, are remarkably rich in their sculptures. Some other portions are Transitional and Early English ; but the principal restorations are in the Decorated style of the 14th century. In Saxon times a church stood here, subject to the see of Lindisfarne : and two sculp- tured stones, which very probably formed part of that older structure, are built into the walls of the present Abbey—one of them forming the lintel of a window in the second story of the chancel. A relic of the same period, the base of a cross, which had been removed from Jedburgh, is now in the Hartrigg grounds. Though much decayed by time, there can still be traced the rude figure of an animal and some inter- lacing work. Leaving the Abbey, the party walked up the Jed, and examined with great interest the geological formations ex- posed in the channel and banks of the river. Opposite to Allars Mill is the instructive section to which Dr. Hutton’s description has given a world wide celebrity; for here is seen an unconformable junction of the Cambro-silurian and old red sandstone formations; the former rocks are thrown into. a vertical position, and on their upturned edges, the sandstone rocks are deposited in nearly horizontal beds. Such junctions had been observed before, but Hutton was the first who rightly unfolded their meaning. He saw that these primary strata, (the Cambro-silurian,) after having been Anmversary Address. 331 formed at the bottom of the sea, in planes nearly horizontal, were raised so as to become almost vertical, while they were yet covered by the ocean, and before the sandstone had been deposited upon them. And he saw too, that as fragments of the primary rock included in the sandstone, are many of them rounded and worn, the deposition of the latter must have been separated from the elevation of the former by such an interval of time, as gave room for the action of waste and decay.* Since the period when Hutton uttered his bold generaliza- tions, Sir Roderick Murchison has unfolded additional evidence of the long lapse of time between these two forma- tions, for he has shown, that there intervenes the era, during which were deposited the thick silurian beds with their numerous organisms. Though these beds are absent from Roxburghshire, they are largely developed along the Welsh Borders. Excepting ‘“‘ morsels of black vegetable matter ”’ noticed by Mr. D. M. Home in his geological account of Rox- burghshire, no fossils have been found in the Cambro-silurian rocks of Roxburghshire, though films of metallic oxides, as- suming a dentritic form have been mistaken for “very distinct impressions of plants.” In the same formation, however, in Berwickshire, Mr. Stevenson has found Graptolites. The soft friable condition of this red sandstone, caused it at one time to be grouped with the new red sandstone; but in Mr. D. Milne Home’s Memoir, it is rightly classified as the old red or Devonian; for the question as to its age was de- cisively determined by the discovery of Holoptychius nobi- lissimus and Pterichthys major, characteristic Devonian fishes, in Fernihirst quarry and elsewhere in Roxburgh- shire. Following the Jed upward, the party wandered through scenery of great beauty, heightened at this season in gorge- ousness, by the rich blossoms of the fruit trees. They lingered for awhile beneath the Capon Tree, a very large old oak tree, * Playfair’s Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory, p. 51. 332 Anniversary Address. one of the last remains of the great forest of Jed, and dis- cussed the origin of the name. That it is derived from the resemblance of the tree to a monk’s head with a cowl-on— literally ‘ cape-on,” was generally doubted ; for there are Capon trees elsewhere to which the explanation does not apply. Near Brampton, by the road side, is a Capon tree, under which, according to popular tradition, a cold collation, of which the principal dainties were capons, was provided for the judges of assize, when met there by the authorities of Car- lisle.. Reference is made to a Coban or Capon tree, which may have stood near to Alnwick Castle, in the following rhymes sung by girls while playing at “keppy ball,” in order to divine their matrimonial fortunes :— Keppy ball, keppy ball, Coban tree, Come down the long loanin’ and tell to me The form and the features, the speech and degree Of the man that is my true love to be. Keppy ball, keppy ball, Coban tree, ~ Come down the long loanin’ and tell to me How many years old J am to be. One a maiden, two a wife, Three a maiden, four a wife, &c., the numbers being continued as long as the ball can be kept rebounding against the tree.* Capon, Coban, and Covine are several names for the same tree, the letters p, b, and v, being interchangeable. Dr. Jamieson defines Covine tree, as “‘a large tree in front of an old Scottish mansion house where the laird always met his visitors ;”” and this corresponds with the more general mean- ing, which was suggested by Mr. Robert Home at the meet- ing, that the name comes from the “kepping,” or tryst- ing tree. Still following the Jed upward, the party visited the Douglas camp, situated near to Linthaughlee House, on a high ridge with steep scaurs on two sides, and which, though used by * I am indebted to Mrs. Busby of Alnwick for this old rhyme. G. T. Anmversary Address. 333 forces during the middle ages, had originally been one of the ancient British fortlets. Crossing the deep dene and ascend- ing to the top of a high scaur, the remarkable caves of Lintalee, formed in the soft sandstone, were examined; they are similar to those at Crailing, which were described in last year’s proceedings. ‘The appearance of the caves here, con- firms the opinion expressed by Mr. D. Milne Home in his paper as to their comparatively modern origin, for within the inner cave the tool marks in the rock are but little worn by time ; and the percolation of water, through the porous sand- stone, would render such caves altogether unfit for permanent human occupation. The party then wended their way to Old Fernihirst, the Castle of the Kers, erected in 1490; though battered down with cannon in 1523, its ‘battled keep Still towers embosomed in the wood Where now all warlike echoes sleep.” It has been converted into a farm-house. After examining the towers and apartments of the castle, the party returned to Jedburgh in time for dinner, passing in their route ‘ The King of the Wood,” a great oak tree 80 feet high, another of the remnants of the Jed forest, and Fernihirst old red sand- stone quarry, in which fish remains are found. The ground passed over was not productive of natural his- tory objects of much interest. Mr. Jerdon furnishes the following Botanical notes :— The club did not meet with any new or rare plants, the productions of the old red sandstone formation, which forms the valley of the Jed being, as Mr. Tate observed, not gener- ally of an interesting character. On the old Abbey of Jed- burgh, the wallflower (Cheiranthus Cheiri,) was observed growing very luxuriantly; and in a hedge at Inchbonny, Chelidonium majus was noticed. ‘This latter plant, however, was certainly an outcast from a garden. In the glen, or dene, at Tintalee, Aspidium aculeatum was seen on the banks in some abundance, and also Stellaria nemorum, by the 334 Anniversary Address. side of the little brook, in great luxuriance. This Stellaria appears to be local in its distribution, as some of the members had not seen it before. In the dene was also observed, but sparingly, Mihum effusum. A HMieracium was growing on the scaur below the Lintalee cave, probably murorum, as the stem was nearly leafless. On proceeding to Fernihirst, the locality of Gagea lutea was searched, but without success, and Mr. Jerdon men- tioned, that for the last two or three years he had been unable to find the plant, so that it is apparently lost at this station. Veronica montana was observed by the river side in some abundance. In returning to Jedburgh, Mr. Jerdon pointed out some plants of Geranium lucidum, on an old wall near Fernihirst, and also Bartramia pomiformis, sparingly, on another part of the same wall. The common wood and road- side plants of this season were in great beauty and profusion. After dinner, a paper giving an account of the opening of two Barrows at Ford, by the Rev. W. Greenwell, was read. Mr. James Bowhill, of Ayton, was elected a member, and the following nominations for membership were made :—Pro- fessor Simpson, Edinburgh ; Thomas G. H. Burnet, New- castle ; John Hilson, Jedburgh; Chris. Allan, M. D., Wooler ; John Searth, Manderston, Dunse ; Septimus Smith, Norham ; John Paxton, Norham; Robert Weatherhead, Berwick ; John Harrison, County Architect, Newcastle ; Thomas Ma- son, Pallinsburn; Rey. J. B. Strother, Berwick; Robert Ballantyne, M. D., Jedburgh ; Alex. Jeffrey, Jedburgh ; Charles Anderson, Jedburgh; John Hume, Jedburgh ; Henry R. Hardie, Stoneshiel, Ayton; Geo. Hilson, Provost of Jedburgh ; Arch. Jerdon, Jedfoot, Jedburgh ; Wm. Elliot, Jedburgh ; James Tait, Kelso. The second Field meeting of the year V was held at Berwick, on the 26th of June. There were present—Messrs. Ralph Carr, D. M. Home, Chas. Watson, Matt. Culley, P. Clay, Robert Douglas, J. Paterson, Wm. Stevenson, B. Nicholson, F. G. Collingwood, G. J. Williamson, Geo. Tate, Sir John Majoribanks; Revds. G. H. Hamilton, P. G. M‘Dowal, J. B. Anniversary Address. 335 Strothers, J. W. Dunn, Robert Jones, J. D. Clarke, Wm. Darnell, Geo. Rooke, 8S. A. Tyler; Drs. C. Douglas, Wm. Mackenzie, D. H. Somerville; and as visitors, Mr. Coxe of Eglingham, and Mr. Johnston of Marlfield. A voyage along the coast either to the Farne Islands, or St. Abb’s Head, was to have been the chief object of the meeting; for Mr. Williamson, one of our members, had kindly offered the use of his vessel for the purpose. He accordingly sent it off from London, ene week prior to the day of meet- ing, but, unfortunately, contrary winds prevented the vessel reaching Berwick in time for the meeting. The arrange- ments were therefore altered; one party sailed in a steam vessel, provided by Mr. Williamson, up the Tweed as far as practicable, and afterwards strolled along the banks of the river; another went along the coast northward of Berwick ; and a third party crossed the Tweed at Spittal, and after looking at an important collection of Fish remains obtained by Mr. Paterson from the shales connected with the coal seams of the district, they proceeded southward and examined the complete section of mountain limestone rocks, exposed along the coast, from the mouth of the Tweed to Goswick. Leaving the coast, they went inland to Berwick Hill coiliery, and spent some time in breaking out of the shales lying around, the scales, teeth, and other remains of fish which lived during the carboniferous era. As an account of the section and of the fossils in the several rocks will hereafter be given in a separate paper, it need only be mentioned here, that one of the interesting discoveries of the day, was a specimen of Spirifer bisulcatus, in a shale near Hudshead, showing dis- tinctly the calcareous spiral coil, which supported the fleshy arms of this Brachiopod. In this state Spirifers are rarely seen in the Northumberland beds. The members proposed at the last meeting were elected, and the following nominations were made :—Rey. John Col- lingwood Bruce, L.L.D., F.S.A., Newcastle ; Mr. John Tate, Bilton House; Mr. Robert Crossman, Chiswick House, Beal; Rev. J. B. Roberts, Shilbottle; Rev. Peter Mearns, x 336 Anmversary Address. Coldstream ; Mr. W. Watson, Thames Street, London; Mr. John Spottiswoode, of Spottiswoode, Lauder; Mr. J. M. Meg- gison, Berwick; A. Brown, M.D., Coldstream; Mr. David Page, Edinburgh; and Mr. Bailes, Scremerston. Mr. D. Milne Home proposed, and Mr. Tate seconded, that Lady John Scott be elected an extraordinary member of the club. After dinner a paper was read by Mr. Ralph Carr of Hedgely, on the present participle in the Northumbrian Dialect, and on the verbal nouns or nouns of action, termin- ating in 7g. Mr. D. Milne Home remarked on the meteorology of the district, and a discussion ensued, during which Mr. Wm. Stevenson gave explanations of the causes of the difference of temperature between high and low grounds in very cold weather. Mr. Tate gave a report of the day’s explorations along the coast. And thus passed away a day, which, not- withstanding disappointments, supplied much material for thought, proving indeed that however often Berwick may have been investigated, there yet remains a wide field of research. On the 31st of July—one of the few warm summer days which have this year occurred in the North of England—the third Field meeting was held at Chatton. There were present —Messrs. Prideaux J. Selby, J. C. Langlands, Wm. Boyd, Robert Embleton, Geo. Tate, Arch. Jerdon, Henry R. Hardie, Wm. Elliot, Matt. Culley, Geo. Culley, M. Dand, J. Fryer, Ralph Huggup, Capt. Selby, R.N.; Drs. Marshall, C. Doug- las, Robson Scott, C. Allen; Revds. Geo. Thompson, J. 8. Green, Wm. Darnell, Robert Jones; and as visitors, Rev. Wm. Hodgson, M. Wigram, Mr. Wood, and Messrs. Wigram and R. H. Jones. After a substantial breakfast at the hospitable mansion of Dr. Marshall, the party proceeded to explore the district ; and first they ascended Chatton Law, a rugged and steep sand- stone hill, with a considerable area of comparatively level ground on the summit, the western end of which is occupied by a strong ancient British Fort, defended by three rampiers. Anniversary Address. 337 The view from it is extensive, and, within a radius of less than two miles, six other camps of the olden times can be seen. But the most interesting objects on this hill, are some curious and mysterious sculpturings on the scalp of rocks protruding from beneath the soil. One of these is within the camp, and the other is about 200 yards to the eastward of it. These sculpturings are incised concentric circles with a cen- tral hollow, from which a straight incised line or groove pro- ceeds through the series of circles and beyond them. They are of the same family character as those on the Routing Linn, Doddington, and old Bewick stones; but the largest figure is seen at Chatton Law; for one there is three feet in diameter, and consists of seven concentric circles, After leaving the Law, one party took the direct route to Chillingham ; but another, under the guidance of Mr. Lang- lands, crossed the wild moorlands, passing by ancient fortlets, cairns, and sepulchres to Ros Castle, the highest sandstone hill in the district, and rising to the height of 1000 feet above the sea level. This hill is crested with a camp, whose age is indicated by its name ; for both words are Celtic, Rhos mean- ing moist land or a moor, and Castell being a late Celtic word for a fortress. After enjoying for a while the magnificent view which this height commands, the party entered into Chillingham Park and examined Hebburn Tower—one of the Peles or Bastiles, as they are called, which are peculiar to the Border land — grim, square, massive buildings, once the strong residences of the lesser barons and gentry, but now deserted and crumbling away. With ruined walls clad with ivy or crusted with lichens, they are picturesque features in the landscape, but they vividly remind us of the time, when before the Union of England and Scotland under one sove- reign, such strongholds were necessary for the protection of life and property against Border marauders. Chillingham Park, one of the most beautiful in the north of England, is enclosed by a high stone wall, and contains, it is said, about 2000 acres. The ground is undulating and somewhat broken ; woods clothe the hill sides and clumps of 338 Anniversary Address. trees are scattered over the park, yet within it are broad and rich pastures, tenanted by deer and by the celebrated Wild Cattle—‘ mightiest of all the beasts of chase.” Of these cattle there is now a herd of more than sixty. A good view was obtained of them; their colour is white, excepting that the eyes, eyelashes, and tips of the horns are black ; the muzzle is brown, and the inside of the ears red or brown ; their shape is considered fine, the legs being short and the back straight. They are supposed to be the pure descendants of the aborig- inal wild cattle of the country ; the problem of their origin however is as yet unsolved; it may turn out that they are merely a variety of our ordinary cattle, preserved by inbreed- ing and by destroying such calves as are born differing from the common type. Their resemblance to the feral cattle of one part of the Falkland Islands, has given a new interest to the question; and as Earl Tankerville, in accordance with suggestions made to him, is causing a record to be kept of the births, sexes, deaths and causes of death of these animals, and has also supplied a skull and other bones to Professor Riits- negen, who is studying, with great care, the skulls of recent and extinct oxen, we may, ere long, obtain a more exact knowledge of the origin and history of the Chillingham wild cattle. On leaving the Park, a passing look was given at Chil- lingham church—an old solemn structure, still retaining in its doorway the original Norman piers, capitals, and arch; and at the elaborate and beautiful tomb, within the Grey porch, erected to the memory of Sir Ralph Grey of Wark, who died in 14438. Chillingham Castle was next visited, which as well as the Park was, through the courtesy of Earl Tankerville, opened to the inspection of the club. Its situation,embosomed among woods, is delightful, but externally it has neither the massiveness of the old Gothic castle nor the elegance of a modern mansion. Most of its architecture belongs to the Elizabethan period, but some portions of the old towers, erected in the 13th century are preserved; there is still a narrow prison, to which light and air are admitted only by a Anniversary Address. 339 narrow slit in a thick wall; and beneath it, many feet down, is the dark dungeon to which there was access by a trap door through the prison floor. Letters rudely cut on the prison walls, and some rows of long and short lines, are records of wretched prisoners immured here, and of the weary days passed in captivity. The interior of the castle presents more pleasing objects; for here are some of the finest paintings in the county — original portraits of Charles I. and IL., of Bacon, of Jeffreys, of the Grey family and of many others, in- cluding productions from the pencil of Godfrey Kneller, Van- dyke, Reynolds, Landseer, and other distinguished artists. From the castle the party returned by the direct route to Chatton ; and after dinner the members proposed at last meeting were elected; and the following nominations were made, viz.:—Rev. James Dand, Ancroft, and Mr. William Crawford, Dunse. The following papers were read :-—one from Mr. James Hardy, of Penmanshiel, containing a list of the Border Li- chens; an account from Rev. F. R. Simpson of an ancient British Cist discovered at North Sunderland ; and a history of the Battle of Flodden Field, by the Rev. Robert Jones of Branxton. Mr. Geo. Tate afterwards gave an account of excavations, recently made into the antiquities of Yevering ; and it was resolved, that a special meeting of the club be held on the 15th inst., at Yevering, to examine the excavations. Mr. Wm. Boyd shewed to the meeting a goose egg, having another egg within; it was laid, along with a number of others of the same kind, by an old goose at Boutrigg in Roxburghshire ; and both the inner and outer egg were per- fect so far, as each had a “yolk and white.” Mr. Ralph Huggup shewed a number of flat circular perforated stones, found at Shorestone along with hard burnt red pottery with an incised pattern ; such stones have generally been regarded as weights for ancient spindles. It was also stated that Mr. James Hardy, of Penmanshiel, had discovered two insects new to Northumberland from a fungus on alder, in the Lilburn ; viz., Carida flexuosa, and Orchesia micans. 340 Annwersary Address. A special Field meeting was held at Yevering on August 15th, to examine the excavations which the club, aided by the liberality of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland, had made into the antiquities of Yevering Bell. There were present :—the President ; Messrs. Matt. Culley, Wm. Boyd, Jas. Grey, J. C. Langlands, Thos. Mason, J. Paxton, Geo. Tate, C. Rae, Wm. Wightman, and F. R. Wilson; Drs. C. Douglas and Allan ; Professor Simpson, of Edinburgh ; Rey. J.C. Bruce, L.L.D.; Revds. P. G. M‘Doual, J. 8. Green, J. Roberts, and F. R. Simpson; and as visitors, Rev. J. Bigge, of Stamfordham; Revds. S. Wigram, Hodgson, and A. Stewart, Killin, Argyleshire; Messrs. G. Rea, Robert Busby, Thos. Tate, J. Wykeman Archer, London, Chas. Borthwick, Mr. Elliot, and Master Langlands. After breakfast with the Rev. J. S. Green, vicar of Wooler, the party proceeded to New Yevering, and thence began the ascent of the hill. Mr. Tate, under whose directions the ex- plorations were conducted, guided the party and gave exposi- tions at: each digging, of the character of the antiquities examined, and of the relics which had been discovered. Bar- rows, hut-circles, fortlets, and the great fort on the summit of the Bell, were visited in succession ; and the proceedings of the day were much enlivened by the discussions which were carried on over every excavation. By Professor Simpson much interesting information was communicated, respecting similar antiquities in Scotland. Of these researches a full report will appear in our proceedings. After dinner at Wooler, the relics found were shown and described. The members proposed at last meeting were elected ; and Mr. Geo. Rea, of Middleton House, was nomin- ated for membership. The fifth Field meeting was held at Dunse, on the 28th of August. There were present :—Messrs. D. Milne Home, Wm. Stevenson, Chas. Watson, J. Waite, Wm. Crawford, John Turnbull, Wm. Boyd, T. Landale, H. Hardie, Robert Home, Robert Douglas, A. Jerdon, Alex. Jeffrey, Wm. Oliver, J. Fryer, Geo. Tate and John Tate; Dr. C. Douglas ; Anniversary Address. 341 Professor Campbell Swinton; Rev. P. Mearns; and as visitors, Lord Polwarth, Major M. Campbell; Messrs. Thos. Tate, Bilton House, G. M. Innes, and Master Fryer. The principal object of the day’s proceedings was to ex- amine the remarkable ridges of sand and gravel, called ‘‘Kaims,” at Bedshiel, at Oxendean and in the Dunse woods, The party were guided by Mr. D. Milne Home and Mr. Wm. Stevenson, both of whom are well acquainted with the locality and its geological features. Unfortunately the day was unfavourable to minute observations, for the party, during the whole of their walk, were exposed to drenching rains, After dinner, Mr. Geo. Rea, who was proposed at last meet- ing, was elected a member; and the following nominations were made :—Mr. David Ferguson, Dunse ; Mr. James Wood, Dunse ; John Lait, M.D., Dunse ; James Falla, M.D., Jed- burgh. Admirably executed military sketches, taken by Mr. Smith of the Royal Engineers, of Odin’s or Edin’s Hall, and of the encampments on Bunkle edge, were laid before the meeting, accompanied by a descriptive account from Major Hope Smith. The following are Mr. D. Milne Home’s notes on this meet- ing :—The chief object of this day’s meeting was to inspect the Kaims, which had been referred to in the President’s address of last year, when he described the view from the top of Cockburnlaw where the club held a meeting last year. These Kaims consist of elongated ridges of drift, standing up, on the general surface of the country, with steep sides, and attaining sometimes a height of 50 or 60 feet. There being a number of these remarkable objects in the neighbourhood of Dunse, it was intended, according to the programme, to visit those in the woods of Dunse Castle, and also the more exten- sive development of them on a moor about six miles west of Dunse. At breakfast Mr. D. M. Home, by means of a series of plans hung up on the walls, gave a verbal exposition of their physical features and their internal structure, and also 342 Anniversary Address. adverted to the various theories of their formation. After breakfast, the party proceeded in an omnibus and other con- veyances to the farms of Bedshiel and Cattleshiel, on which the longest line of Kaims is situated. The examination commenced at the west end, from which looking eastward, a good view is obtained of the whole line, stretching through a low lying plain, for about three or four miles. The line is as a whole concave towards the hills which are to the north ; but the curve is not regular. In different parts there are very Sharp turnings, amounting even to a right angle, which it is on any theory most difficult to account for. It is very evident, however, that whatever was the agent which formed this singular ridge, the whole line has been originally continu- ous—now it is broken up in one or two places, at each of which a stream crosses the line. The most important break has been caused by the river Fangrist, and there the interval extends to about 250 yards. The party were met by Mr. Thompson, the steward on Marchmont estate, and two labourers, who had come by direc- tion of Sir Hugh Campbell, the proprietor, to open out for the inspection of the club such portions of the Kaims, as might be wished, for the study of their internal structure. Several old quarries were with this view stopped at and ex- amined ; and in these, the geological members of the party entered on an instructive discussion. It was seen that the Kaims were composed of gravel and sand, disposed in regu- lar layers or strata. The gravel consisted of the various rocks of the country, greywacke, porphyry, basalt, and old red sand- stone. Mr. D. Milne Home mentioned, that the greater part of the gravel could have come only from the west or north, and as the fragments were much rolled, must have come from a distance. These Kaims are from 30 to 60 feet in height above the adjoining surface of the country, and with sides at the steepest places forming an angle with the horizon of about 15° or 20°. The gravel seemed to be coarsest at the west; and there was most sand towards the east end, where it has been largely quarried for building purposes. No Anniversary Address. $43 organic remains are known to have been discovered ; but it has been said that a few small bivalve shells had been found near the east end, on or below the level of the moss. From the description given, they appeared to be recent, and to belong to the genus Cyclas. Mr. Stevenson of Dunse undertook to make further enquiry regarding them. It appeared to the members present quite manifest, that the notion of these Kaims having been the moraine of a glacier, as supposed by the late Dr. Buckland, was untenable. Their internal structure showed that the materials composing them, had been brought and laid down by water; though in what way it is very difficult to understand. Considering the great length of the line of these Kaims, and their great height, the agent must have been on a large scale. As the drift cover- ing the whole country contains gravel and sands, of the same character, the inference is that these Kaims must have been formed when the land was covered by sea. Reference was made to the “ spits” of gravel and sand known to be formed off Yarmouth and also off the coast of Dorset; in the former case by the action of currents or tides, in the latter case by the action of the waves and the prevalent south-westerly gales. Another theory was suggested, that if the land emerged suddenly from the sea, the waters would rush off, in a direction more or less easterly, in parallelism with the direction of the Lammermuir and Cheviot hills, and would wash away the drift, except in certain localities, where it would be left in long ridges. It was observed, that the general course of all the Berwickshire Kaims was east and west, and several of them showed, at their west ends, a high crag which would protect the drift on the east side of it from the action of the retiring waters. It was mentioned by Mr. D. Milne Home in proof of the numbers of these Kaims in Berwickshire, and of the popular interest excited by them, that a number of estates and farms were called after them— as the estate of Kaims in Eccles parish, and the farms of Kaim Knowe, and Kaim Flat, near Kelso. Lord Kaims, celebrated in the last century as a Scotch lawyer, was the Z 344 Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. proprietor of that estate. It was conjectured that the word Kaims was derived from the Scotch word signifying a comb, on account of the shape of the ridge. One of the Kaims in Dunse castle woods bears the popular name of “ The skart- ing Kaim,” on account of the broken or jagged outline, caused by some remarkable terraces on it. It now, gentlemen, only remains for me to thank you, for your great kindness, in appointing me to the honourable office of President. I am afraid I would have been a most inefficient one, in any circumstances, but I am sorry to say that family distress has prevented me attending your meet- ings, during the year, and doing eyen the little that I might have done. JEDBURGH. By ALEXANDER Jurrrey, F.S.A., Scot. JEDBURGH is a town of great antiquity. Before the Roman eagle appeared upon the heights of the Cheviots it existed as a British town, and during the Roman period, one of the stations of the Watling Street, which runs through the dis- trict, was in the immediate locality. When that mighty people were called away to defend their own hearths and altars from the Gothic hordes, it became, under the name of Recep, the capital of Urren, the cherisher of bards, “ the shield of his country,” who reigned in the hearts of the Romanized Gadeni, and who carried his flaming sword into Northumberland to meet the Saxon Ida. When this great warrior fell by the treachery of Morkin, the King of Strath- clyde, he was succeeded by his son Owen, whose sword stop- ped the victorious career of the Northumbrian king. Not- withstanding the valour of the civilized Britons, they were at last overcome by Ethelfrid, and his successor Edwin estab- lished the Saxon power from sea to sea. It was during this period of fierce conflicts, which lasted for many years, that the Catrail, which runs from the Rink camp, on the penin- sula between the Tweed and Gala, to the Peelfell on the sources of the Liddel and Jed, was formed by the Romanized Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. 345 Britons to aid them in repelling the Saxon invader. After the time of Edwin’s success this district was incorporated with the kingdom of Northumberland, and continued to form a part thereof till the end of the tenth century, when it be- came the property of the king of Scotland. Few glimpses are obtained of its condition during the Northumbrian period, till about the beginning of the ninth century it is seen as the property of Ecfrid, who was bishop of Lindisfarne from 829 to 845. He is said to have been a man of noble birth and ample possessions. In the work which passes under the name of Simeon of Durham—but the real author of which is understood to be Turgot the prior of Durham—written about the end of the eleventh century, it is said that Ecfrid built the towns of Jeddeword, and bestowed them upon the see of which he was bishop.* Little is known of the history of the district for a considerable time after it formed part of Scot- land, but about 1097, the town under the shelter of the castle had risen to be a burgh and royal domain. At the death of Edgar it became the property of his younger brother, the pious David, who both previous to and after his becoming king resided here ; and Karl Henry his son dated a charter at Jedburgh. Malcolm IV., who loved the southern borders well, delighted to dwell at his castle on the Jed, where he died in 1165. His brother, William the Lion, also made it his residence, and where he granted many charters before 1214. King Alexander II., the “ devout, upright, and courte- ous prince,” also made it his abode, from whence he dated many charters. The town and its pertinents with other lands were, in 1221, settled on Johanna his wife, the sister of the English king. Here Alexander IIT. met the English depu- ties, and after repeated conferences, which lasted three weeks, concluded peace, his army at the time lying in the adjoining woods, said by historians to be the most secure retreat for individuals and armies. A son was born to him in the castle of Jedburgh, and named Alexander. In 1282 the marriage of the Prince of Scotland with Margaret, the daughter of Guy, the Earl of Flanders, was solemnized here, on the sab- bath day after the feast of St. Martin, ‘“‘ The feast of this marriage,’ says the chronicler, “was holden with great triumph and solemnity continuously for the space of fifteen days together.” ‘The prince died in the following year. In October 1285, the same king was married here to Jolind, * Ecfrid was also the founder of the church of Norham, about 830. Anglia Sacra, vol. i. p. 698. 346 Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. daughter of the Count of Dreux, in presence of all the Scot- tish and many of the French nobility.* The old annalists say the town was selected for the nuptials on account of its lovely situation and the beauty of its woods and river. Although the giants of the forest have nearly ceased to exist, the locality is still full of scenes of surpassing beauty, and will well repay the visit which the club are about to make to it. When Edward I. swept over Scotland like a destroying angel, the members of the corporation of Jedburgh took the oath of fealty to him in 1298.¢ The seal attached to the Declaration has for the device—azure, an unicorn tripping argent, ringled, maned, and horned. 'These arms were to be seen on the market cross during the end of the last century, and a few years ago I had the pleasure of discovering the unicorn beneath a heap of rubbish in a cell of the old prison ; but through the carelessness of those in authority, it has been broken, and a few fragments in the museum are all that remain of the arms which surmounted the ancient cross of the burgh. ‘The cross itself was taken down a number of years since, with the view of improving the streets of the town, and portions of the shafts put to the ignoble use of supporting a turnpike gate. One part of it is now to be seen near to Hartrigge, the mansion of Lord Campbell.t Who can help lamenting the demolition of the time-worn memorial associated with the history of the burgh from its first erec- tion. Were it only for what took place at it in 1571, it ought to have been held sacred to the community. At that time a pursuivant was sent from the newly-created authority in Edinburgh, to proclaim their letters in Jedburgh, which had always been favourable to the young king. On his arrival, he mounted the cross, and proceeded to read the letters to the multitude congregated in the streets, who although not acknowledging the authority that sent the herald, heard him patiently till he came to that part which bore that the lords assembled in Edinburgh, had found all things done against the queen null, and all men should obey her only ; * Fordun, x. 40. MHollenshead’s Chronicle, vol. ii. p. 407. Heywood’s Hierarchie of the Blessed Angels, Book viii. + Prynne, p. 655. The name of this place was formerly Stewartfield, and was changed by the late Lord Campbell to Hartrigge, on acquiring the estate. It is to be regretted that the name was altered, as there can be no doubt the name of Stewartfield was conferred upon it at a very early period. In all the burghs of the king the Stewart had allotted to him a field and a mansion, and it is probable that this place was the Stewart’s field. Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. 347 but no sooner had he uttered these words, than a storm of popular feeling arose, and the provost, after abusing the queen, caused the herald to come down from the cross, and made him eat the letters he had partly read; and in order that he might be paid his wages, unloosed his points, and gave him his “‘ wages on his bare buttocks ”* with part of a bridle rein, Buccleuch and Ferneherst threatened to revenge the insult put upon their authority, and marched upon the burgh with 3000 men. ‘The provost called out the stafis, and offered battle, but this the supporters of the queen de- clined, and hearing that Ker of Cessford was hastening with a chosen band to aid the burghers, retired into the neighbour- ing fastnesses. When Robert I. secured the independence of Scotland, he granted a charter to the burgh for the gallant services ren- dered by the community during the struggle, and especially on the field of Bannockburn. A flag taken by the Jeddart staffis, at this battle, is in the museum of the town. The same king granted the territory to the good Sir James Douglas, his favourite warrior. Before 1329 the same king granted a charter in favour of James Cunningham, of the territory of Hassendean on the Teviot, which was dated at Jedburgh. There are also traces in the town council records of a charter having been granted by one of the Jameses. It was in existence in the 17th century. In 1556 Mary gave a charter to the town, proceeding upon the narrative that the burgh, which had been a free royal burgh, endowed with many privileges, liberties, and advantages, and as such was held and reputed from time immemorial until lately, when it was, by the inroads and invasions of ‘“‘ owr old enemies the English,” burned, torn down, and laid waste, whereby the evidence and infeftments of the same were destroyed and taken away, so that the provost, baillies, councillors, and community of the same, require to suffer heavy loss in their privileges and liberties belonging to said burgh, unless pro- vision be made against the same ;—that the same burgh is situated near the borders of the kingdom, and a place of refuge to residenters and inhabitants of the county, as well in time of peace as war, and affords aid in resisting rebels ; no other royal burgh within the county, nor any other place, so convenient and suitable to protect and receive the liege men of the kingdom for the resistance of English enemies * Bannatyne’s Journal, p. 243. 348 Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. and rebels ; for these considerations Mary anew erected Jed- burgh a free royal burgh perpetually, and gave to the provost, baillies, councillors, and commonality of the same, all the com- mon property which formerly they had; and to the bur- gesses and inhabitants full authority, free power, and special license to buy and sell wine, wax, woollen and linen cloth, broad and narrow, and every other kind of merchandise and goods, and to have and hold within the said burgh millers, bakers, flishers, hangmen, and slaughterers of flesh and fish, and every other artificer pertaining to the privileges and liberties of a free burgh; to have within the burgh perpetu- ally in all time coming a market cross and weekly market days on Monday and Friday, and free market days annually in the day of exaltation of the holy cross in autumn, and during eight days of the same, with a common market annually on the festal day of Pentecost, and with tolls, cus- toms, privileges, liberties, and advantages, free market days appertaining to a free royal burgh, in whatever way in the future, and as freely as “‘ our burgh of Edinburgh, or any other royal burgh, is infeft within the kingdom by us or our predecessors.” By the charter also a power was given to the magistrates and office-bearers of the burgh, to seize and arrest every person committing or resetting theft within the burgh ; to bring them to the notice of an assize or assizes, and to drown, hang, and justify them, &c. From this it will be seen that Jedburgh is, by this charter, raised to an equality with any burgh in the kingdom. The charter was ratified by Parliament in 1599, and the ratification proceeds on the same narrative as the charter. The burgh was the residence of Mary the queen in 1566, and where she held a justice court and assembled a parlia- ment. While Mary resided here, she occupied a house in the Backgate. ‘The room in which tradition says she slept, is on the third floor in the back part of the house, looking into a garden. Some old tapestry, which it is said covered the walls of the room at the time, is still exhibited. While in this house Darnley visited her after she became con- valescent, and remained one night in the town. The queen was attended by a number of the principal men of the king- dom, and by secretary Cecil of England. On leaving, she was escorted to Kelso—where she held a court—by a thousand of the Border chivalry. The burgh was also the place where the armies of Scotland assembled, and it was from the earliest times the seat of the Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. 349 courts of the king for the administration of justice to an ex- tensive district. But so unruly and numerous were the accused parties and their friends, that it often required the presence of the king with an army of 6000 men to enforce obedience to the law. In 1510 James IV. placed 200 of the clan Turnbull at the bar with halters round their necks, several of whom were hanged, others imprisoned, and the rest dismissed on giving hostages for their future good beha- viour. And here I may advert to the reproachful phrase of “‘ Jeddart justice,” or, “hang a man first and try lim after.” In cases of treason, where the accused party was dead, it was the practice to place the corpse or the dry bones at the bar before the assize, lead evidence, get a verdict, and pro- _nounce sentence in the same way as if the person had been alive. ‘The dead bodies of the Earl of Gowrie and Alexander Ruthven were produced at the trial, and sentence pronounced in presence of the corpses. ‘The bones of Logan of Restalrig, which had been in the grave for many years, were dug up and placed at the bar on the trial, and sentence pronounced as if he had been alive. Trials of this kind were very frequent during the time of the persecution. Henry Hall of Haughead, on Cayle, was tried in this way. After the battle of the Pentland Hills, the authorities in Scotland had recourse to a new process :—that of trying in absence parties accused of being present in that action. After this trial it was not deemed necessary to produce the corpse or the bones at the bar. On this change of practice Lord Hailes remarked :— “The bones of a traitor can neither plead defences nor cross- question witnesses, and upon this matter there is no differ- ence whether the accused person be absent in body or present in bones.”” Morton, in his Monastic Annals, adopts the view of preceding writers, that it was the severity of George the fourth Earl of Home, the father of one of the abbots, that gave birth to the proverb; but it is evident that it was not the severity of the law, but the peculiar manner in which it was administered in a class of cases, that gave rise to the obnoxious phrase. In short, the form of trial was resorted to, to enable the iniquitous government of the day to bestow the estates of the deceased, who had probably been shot on the hillside, on its willing tools. The Castxz of Jedburgh, which existed during the 11th century, stood upon the site of the present prison. It was of great extent and strong. David I. had a garden within the castle. On Edward I. being appointed referee in the dis- 350 Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. putes which followed the death of Alexander, and having obtained seizin of the kingdom in order that he might give effect to the judgment, committed the castle to the keeping of Laurence de Seymnor, and in the same year it passed into the hands of Brien Fitzallen. In 1295 John Baliol delivered it for security to the Bishop of Carlisle, and the Abbot of New Abbey, while the English king was absent in France. In 1297, Sir William Ruthven, the governor of Jedburgh, and Sir Christopher Seton, took it from the English. In 1304 Edward was at Jedburgh and the castle again in his hands. After changing hands repeatedly, the commons of Teviotdale rose en masse, took the castle, and razed it to the founda- tions. When the English king possessed the castles of Jed- burgh, Roxburgh, and Hermitage, he commanded the whole country by a chain of forts from the Solway to the German Ocean. In the same street with the castle, is the house in which the unfortunate Charles Stewart resided on his way to Eng- land in 1745. It was then the property of Ainslie of Black- hill on the Jed. The family of Ainslie is seen in connection with lands on the Jed, from the beginning of the 13th down to the end of the 17th century. The prince had a number of adherents in Jedburgh. At the foot of the Canongate, a fine old bridge with deep ribbed arches spans the river. The date of its erection is un- certain. The style of building and material would lead to the belief that it is coeval with the abbey. There are no very old houses in Jedburgh owing to the destruction of the town in the inroads of Surrey, Hertford, Eurie and Laiton. The inhabitants of Jedburgh were well known in Border warfare. Surrey, who knew them well, says they were “the boldest and the hottest” that ever he saw of any nation, and that he could not take the town as long as any portion of it afforded the means of defence to the inhabitants, and even after the town was burned, the defence was continued among the burning ruins. The battle of the Red swyre was among the last of their feats in arms. The weapon which they used in battle was called a staffe, de- scribed as a stout stake shod with iron, the iron being four feet long. Jedburgh is famous for its Monastery. The exact time of the first foundation of a religious house has not been ascer- tained with any degree of certainty, but there can be little doubt that a church existed here at a very early period. On Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. 301 the accession of Constantine in 306, the religion of Christ may be said to have been established ‘throughout the Roman empire; and eight years after, three of the ‘Roman provinces of this island were represented at the Council of Arles by three bishops, each accompanied by a presbyter and deacon.* The Romanized Britons of Valentia, in the centre of which Wwe now are, were converted by St. NINIAN at the beginning of the fifth century. He founded the monastery of Whithern, and it is thought that his diocese extended over the whole province. After the Romans left, the fierce contests for pos- session of the territory would greatly retard, if not entirely stop the progress of Christianity till the pagan Saxons also embraced the new faith. It is reasonable to think that dur- ing the time of Ninian a succession of teachers would be sent out from Whithern, not only to instruct the intellects of a rude people, but to live amongst them and erect little churches in the glades of the woods. When Oswald ascended the Northumbrian throne in 634, he asked and obtained a bishop from I to instruct his Northumbrian subjects. The Scottish Aidan was consecrated for the mission, and got from the king the isle of Lindisfarne for his episcopal seat. But as Aidan did not understand the tongue of the Anglo-Saxon people, he preached in Gaelic, and the king acted as interpreter. Ina short time the subjects of the pious Oswald were converted, and churches built throughout the land. Before 845 the possessions of the church of Lindisfarne were augmented by the gift of Bishop Ecfrid of the two Gedewordes, with the churches thereof, and a large tract of land in Teviotdale.t It is therefore certain that a church was in existence here during the beginning of the ninth century, and never after- wards ceased to exist.f{ Dempster, in his Ecclesiastical His- tory of Scotland, says, that at the end of the tenth century there existed a monastic institution at this place of which one Kennoch was abbot, and that he was afterwards regarded as a saint, and his festival kept on the fourteenth of Novem- ber of each year. After the translation of the episcopal seat from Lindisfarne to Durham in 995, the authority of the bishop over the district gradually declined; yet there is reason to believe that the church retained some authority * Lloyd’s Ancient Church Government, p. 72. Caledonia, vol. i. p. 315. + Hist. Eccles. Dunelm, Lib. ii. cap. v. { Mr. Innes, in his work “‘ Scotland in the Middle Ages,’ gives only Mailros as existing in this part of the country during the 10th century, but he is clearly mistaken, as the gift of the bishop shows, ZZ 302 Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. over Jedworth in 1093, from the fact of Turgot, the prior of Durham, ordering the body of Ealduf, one of the assassins of Bishop Walcher, to be cast out of the church in which he had been buried.* On the ascendency of David I., Teviotdale was annexed to the bishopric of Glasgow, and John the tutor of David was preferred to the see in 1115, by whose advice and assistance canons regular of the order of St. Augustine were brought from Italy and established at Jedburgh. Wynton places the settlement in 1118, and Fordun in 1147. ‘It is thought Wynton is right as to the first arrival of the canons, and that the house, which was at first a priory, may have been changed into an abbacy about the date mentioned by Fordun. In a charter of David I. to Coldingham in 1139, Dante is styled Prior de Geddwride, and in 1150 Ossert designs him- self Prior de Gedworda. He is one of the witnesses to the confirmation charter (1153—1168) of Malcolm IV. to Walter Fitz Alan of Birchinside and Leggardswode, and styled ““ Osbert Abbot of Jeddeworde.” He died in 1174, and his death is recorded in the Chronicle of Mailros as the first abbot of Jedwood. The dedication of the church was com- memorated on the ‘ vu. Zdus Juhi.’ + The munificent founder gave to the house the tithes of the two Gedworth’s, Lanton, Nisbet, and Creling, the town of the earl Gospatrie, and in the same town a ploughgate and a half, and three acres of land with two houses; also the tithes of the other Creling, the town of Orm; and of Scraesburgh ; the chapel situated in the forest opposite Hernswinglaw; also Ulfston near Jedburgh, Alnclive near Alncrumb, Crumsethe and Raperlaw; the tenth of the game taken in Teviotdale ; the multure of the mill of Jedburgh; pasture for the cattle in the king’s forest and right of taking wood and timber for the use of the monastery; the village of Rule Harvey, Ed- wordslee, a salt work near Strivilene, a house in the town of Roxburgh, and another in Berwick with a fishing.t From Malcolm IV. the monks got the churches of Barton and Grenden in England; a toft and seven acres in Jed- worth ; a fishing above the bridge of Berwick and exemption from custom on their wine imported into that town. The monastery had also many lands and churches confer- red on them by many barons and others Scots and English. * Hist. Eccles. Dunelm, Lib. iv. cap. viii. t+ Acta. Parl. Scot. vol. i. p. 7. Notice of the Ayr MS. of the Ancient Laws of Scotland. { Confirmation charter of Earl Henry. Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. 353 William the Lion confirmed all preceding grants and gave additions ; Robert I. granted five charters to the canons with a confirmation of all charters of David I., Malcolm IV., Wil- liam I. and Alexander I. For seventy years the canons of Jedburgh enjoyed their privileges without molestation or any challenge of their inde- pendence. But the abbey lying within the diocese of Glas- gow, the bishop claimed obedience from the abbot and his brethren. The canons disputed the bishop’s right and de- clined to yield obedience; at last the disputes were referred to the arbitration of five referees, Lord Hugh of Leuhine, Master Stephen of Lillieslif, Master Hugh de Potton, Master William of Ercheldune, and Lord Robert de Hertford, who met in the little chapel at Nisbet on the Teviot, in October 1220, before many auditors; and after both sides were duly heard, the referees decided that the abbot and his canons were bound to obey the bishop in all matters canonical saving their mutual privileges. This curious document is engrossed in the Glasgow chartulary, and I regret. that my limits will not allow me to give it at length.* In little more than another seventy years the abbey was involved in all the miseries of Border warfare. During the succession wars the greater portion of the abbey was destroyed, and to such a condition were the monks reduced, that they had to be billeted on other houses in England. The cloisters were laid in ruins, and the great tower of the church, with the exception, perhaps, of the north wall, was knocked down. After the independence of the kingdom was restored, Bruce strove to repair the abbey and make it habitable for the monks, but it is thought that it was near the end of the fifth century before any important improvements were effected. In 1523 Surrey took and burnt the abbey ; what remained was again destroyed in May under the direction of the Earl of Hertford. It received another visit in September following. It is singular to notice that while the unfeeling Hertford was destroying the abbey, the abbots of Jedburgh and Dryburgh were, along with the earls of Home and Bothwell, in England, and burnt Horncliff on the Tweed, and destroyed Thornton and Shoreswood. At the Reformation the monastery was dissolved and an- nexed to the crown. At this time the revenues of the abbey were estimated at £1274 10s. Scots money; 2 chalders and 2 * Registrum Glas. vol, i. p. 97. 304 Mr, Jeffrey on Jedburgh. bolls of wheat; 23 chalders of barley ; 36 chalders, 13 bolls, 1 firlot, and 1 peck of meal. The Kers of Ferneherst were bailies ef the canons of the abbey, and in 1587 the king granted to Sir Andrew Ker the bailary of the lands and baronies of the monastery. In 1622 James VI. converted the estates of the abbey into a lordship for Sir Andrew Ker un- der the title of Lord Jedburgh. The Marquis of Lothian now possesses the lands. Owing it is supposed to the devastations of ‘‘ owr old ene- mies the English,’ there are no books or papers of any kind relating to the monastery, at least none have as yet been discovered. The history of the house has to be gleaned from the records of other houses, and the charters of the kings and other benefactors of the canons. The abbot must also have been the custodier of the titles of the nobility, as occasionally receipts are met with on depositing of writs in his hands for safe custody. The names of the abbots so far as known were :—Osbert 1150—1174, Richard 1174—1192, Ralph 1192—1205, Hugh 1205, Henry 1239, Philip 1239—1249, Robert de Gyeslaw 1249—1249, Nicholas 1249—1275, John Morel 1275, William 1314, Robert 1322, John 1338, Robert 1358, Walter 1444, Robert 1473, John Hall 1478, Thomas 1493, Henry 1507—1611, John Home 1513. In walking up the Jed the club will arrive at the Capon tree, a large oak on the banks of the river, and supposed to be the last remnant of the giants of Jed forest. The land on which the tree stands formerly belonged to the abbey, and was called Priorshaugh. It is thought that the name is de- rived from its remarkable resemblance to the hood worn by the monks, and was called a capon. ‘The tree measures 21 feet above the roots; about 10 feet up it divides itself into two branches, which measure respectively 114 feet and 14 feet. It is about 80 feet high and covers fully an area of the diameter of 92 feet. It is impossible to fix the age of this beautiful tree, but if I were to hazard an opinion it would be, that the tree is upwards of 600 years old. The king of the wood—another large oak—stands on the top of the bank to the south of the Capon tree, and rears its spiral top to the height of 80 feet. Its girth is 18 feet at the root, and at 15 feet high, 114. Both trees belong to the Marquis of Lothian, who is adopting means to preserve the existence of the Capon tree. The trees are figured in Gilpin’s forest scenery. A short distance from the Capon tree is Lyntalee, the place selected by the good Sir James Douglas as his strong- Mr. Jeffrey on Jedburgh. 390 hold. He could not have chosen a more beautiful and secure retreat. ‘‘ On the east is a precipitous rock of about 100 feet high, washed at its base by the Jed; on the north a deep ravine runs up from the Jed to the table land between the Jed and the Rule; on the south a deep glen winds from the river Jed to the Sueney Moor, which about 3 or 400 yards from the river sends off a deep branch in the direction of the ravine on the north, and approaching so near as to leave only a neck of land between them. ‘To the east of this neck, and surrounded by the Jed and the two ravines, is an open space of ground, and upon it the Douglas built a house for himself and huts for hismen. Thehouse of the chief occupied the site of the modern cottage between the ridges on the west and the pre- cipice.”* Part of the defences are still to be seen, and consist of two ridges running across the point from the ravine on the north to the bank of the Jed on the south. Several imagine that the works belong to the Roman period, but there are no good grounds for such a view. ‘They bear no resemblance to works executed by the Romans. It is known for certain that Douglas built a house for himself and huts for his soldiers here, and there can be as little doubt that he occupied this place, while Arundel was the English warden, to which office he was appointed on November 20, 1316.f It is probable that Lyntalee was the place in the forest where the armies of Scotland had long rendezvoused when danger threatened the Borders, or when intending a hostile expedition into England. While Douglas lay in this retreat, Thomas de Richmont ad- vanced to the Jed with 10,000 men armed with woodmen’s axes to hew down the forest, but they were met by the Douglas within one of the narrow defiles of the Jed, who slew with his own hand the English leader and routed his troops. In the precipitous banks of the Jed at this place are a number of Caves worthy of examination. A difference of opinion exists as to the origin of this class of antiquities, but I am satisfied that they owe their formation to the Caledonian people and to the period of Border warfare. ‘They are to be met with in almost every district of Scotland, and in every part of the world. No doubt they would be used as hiding places during times of Border strife, and even down to our own day part of these caves have been used for farm purposes. _ About three years ago an accidental discovery was made of a number of caves in the face of the left bank of the Oxnam at * Antiquities of Roxburghshire, vol. ii. pp. 224, 225. + Rotuli Scotiz, vol. ii. p. 166. 306 Mr. Carr on the Northumbrian Dialect, &c. Crailing. One of these had been occupied at a comparatively recent period as a hen-house in connexion with an onstead called Kiddochbraeheads or Crailing caves. The row of nests running along the back of one of the caves is still to be seen. When this cave was cleared out by Mr. Paton, the owner of the estate, there were found the skull of a fox, a tobacco pipe, and part of the blade of a knife. It seemed to me that the cave had been partly roofed to protect the poultry, and in front there are the remains of a stone and lime wall, which must have been built in modern times. Although these caves have been so used in recent times, they are of the same kind as those on the banks of the Jed, Aln, Cayle, and Teviot. In 1545 Crailing caves was burned by Sir Ralph Evers, Sir John Hetherington, and Sir John Delaville. I regret my limits will not allow me to follow this interesting subject at greater length.* On the right bank of the Jed, nearly opposite to Lintalee, stands Fernehirst Castle,in early times the stronghold of the Kers, the vassals of the Douglas and the bailies of the abbey. It occupies the site of a baronial fortress, erected in 1410 by Thomas Ker, a person distinguished in Border war- fare. According to Earl Surrey it “‘ stode marvelous strong within a grete woode.” It was destroyed by Lord Dacre in 1523, the day after Surrey burned Jedburgh. The besieged, commanded by Ker, defended themselves with great skill and courage. In 1549 the English were besieged in it by the Scots and French, and after a stout resistance, taken, and the garrison put to the sword. In 1569 the Earl of Northumber- land, Sir Egremont Ratcliffe, and other leaders of the English insurgents found shelter at Fernehirst. Next year it was laid in ruins by the Earl of Sussex. It was rebuilt in 1590. * Caledonia, vol. i. pp. 96—98. Roxburghshire, vol. i. pp. 202—207. I On the present participle in the Northumbrian Dialect, and on the verbal nouns, or nouns of action, terminating in ing. By Rarryu Carr of Hedgeley. Ir is impossible to speak or write with precision about the several sub-divisions of the Anglian speech, which are met with between the county of Suffolk, and the Firth of Forth, Mr. Carr on the Northumbrian Dialect, &c. 357 without adopting some better defined terms for portions of this extensive territory than those commonly in use. By the East Anglian is meant the popular tongue of Suf- folk and Norfolk, with perhaps part of Lincolnshire. By the Mid-Anglian or Mercian, that of the midland counties, with the greater part of Lincolnshire, and perhaps South Lanca- shire. These designations are sufficiently well known. By the North Anglian is commonly meant the popular speech of Yorkshire and the greater part of Durham. The above are all Danic-Anglian variations of the wide- spread Anglian tongue. And closely allied to the last, namely, the dialect of York- shire and Durham, is the Norse-Anglian dialect of North Lancashire, Cumberland, and Westmoreland. The Scandinavian element is here not identical, though cognate. The Cumbrian English, in the mouth of an edu- cated countryman, is to my ears exceedingly manly and agreeable. The old Northan-Humber-land comprised, as is well known, the whole territory lying northward of the great tideway of the Humber, even to the Firth of Forth. And to prevent confusion, it is very desirable that the Anglo-Saxon name should be restored when we speak of that large Anglo- Saxon territory, and that we should not apply to it the modern English contracted designation of Northumberland, but re- serve this for the reduced, though still extensive, tract of the earldom or county of Northumberland, lying between Tyne and Tweed. In this portion of country the Danes never permanently established themselves. Their language is hardly perceptible in its topothetical nomenclature. Names of localities to the north of Tyne are almost always purely Anglian, except where they exhibit traces of the Cymro-Celtic tongue of our British ancestors, of which the present language of Wales is a remnant. This is true however only until we come to the Tweed, for when we have crossed this ever-important bound- ary, not only do the ancient Cymro-Celtic names become yet more frequently recognizable, but the nomenclature of another Celtic people, the Scots, whose language was Erse or Gaelic, begins to claim attention, though of comparatively recent in- troduction into that part of our island. But in the county of Northumberland the Angles seem to have occupied the land, and to have been left in possession of it with but little intermixture with any other people, except 358 Mr. Carr on the Northumbrian Dialect, &c. in Tyneside, where there is certainly much Brito-Celtic blood, whilst in Allendale the mixed population is akin to that of Durham and Kast Cumberland. On the other hand the dialect of Northumberland extends beyond the Tyne, on the south-east, even to Wearmouth, and ascends the Wear as far as Chester-le-Street, which is on the very boundary of the Durham or Yorkshire, and the Northum- brian dialects. At Ebchester and Shotley Bridge the North- umbrian also prevails, ascending the vale of Derwent. The old dialect of the county now called Northumberland is preserved in its strongest, broadest, and least altered state in the high moorland vallies of North Tyne, Reed, Coquet, Breamish,and Glen. In the last mentioned dale stood Yever- ing, an abode of the Anglian princes. The vicinity of Wooler is therefore an important one to those who would inform themselves as to the probable characteristics of the Anglian speech of this region of Bernicia, as brought into it by Ida and his followers. _Bamborough and Lindisfarne are no less im- portant centres of research. Hexham again is an instructive locality. In all of these tracts, with perhaps some reservation as to the last mentioned, the popular speech has much in common with that of the neighbouring shires of Roxburgh and Ber- wick. The 7 is often strongly and clearly pronounced, as beyond the Tweed. Thence we may infer that the burr is mainly a corruption proper to the rustic dialect of “The How ” or hollow of Northumberland, and the adjacent coast line, which did not prevail widely in early times. But before we proceed to speak further of the Northum- brian dialect, it is necessary to observe that a still further extension of the early Anglian speech must be recognized. Let me however, ere proceeding further, observe, that I am very far from wishing to cast any doubt upon the fact of numbers of Danish or Norse words having established them- selves in Northumberland, together with a multitude of Danish personal and family appellations. We unquestion- ably have very many such, and many have passed from us into Lothiane, where others again of Norse origin have met them from the north of Caledonia. Yet neither in Northum- berland nor in Lothiane is there any Danish or Norse nomen- clature of localities indicating the domination and lordship of these north-eastern strangers. The terms from their language seem to have come to us at second hand, together with their personal names, from Yorkshire and Durham, when the Danic- Mr. Carr on the Northumbrian Dialect, &e. 359 Anglian inhabitants were driven northwards by dread of the Norman conquerors, whose hand fell with peculiar severity upon the country north of the Humber. To the northward again of the Tweed, and from thence to the Forth and the Avon, near Linlithgow, the speech of the people possesses a distinctive character, and may be termed the North-Bernic or Lothenic-Anglian. It is broader in its vowels, stronger and more archaic in its consonants, and, from having been cultivated as the language of a court and of a national litera- ture, from the period of the establishment of the Scottish throne at Edinburgh, it not only bears the stamp of a courtly and aristocratic idiom, but has been preserved from much of the progressive deterioration incidental to mere popular dia- lects, such as the rustic Northumbrian. As to the first known settlement of a Gothic colony in this region, we are greatly indebted for information to the inde- pendent research and vigorous judgement of John Hodgson Hinde, in his General History of the County of Northumber- land, undertaken at the instance of the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. It is there shown that, according to the narrative of Nennius, not long after the year 450 a Jutish-Anglian colony came over in forty ships, under Octha and Ebissa, the son and the nephew of Hengist, the Jutish king of Kent, that ‘ having laid waste the Orkneys they passed the country of the Picts, and took possession of a large tract immediately adjoiming.” And this statement is strongly though indirectly corroborated by Beda, where he speaks of a subsequent league between the invaders and the Picts, against the Britons, which could only have been made by a colony established in the neighbourhood of the Pictish possessions. It is further shown that these were the Saxon invaders against whom were fought several severe battles, recorded by Nennius, on the part of the Britons under Arthur, one on the river Glen, others on the strong frontier afforded by the waters of Dunglass and the Peass-burn. It cannot, I think, be doubtful, that this colony, north of the Tweed, maintained a footing in the country till the time when subsequent invasions of their countrymen, the Angles, on the coast extending between the Humber and the Tweed, termin- ated in the election of Ida, as king of all the Northan-Hum- brian Angles in 547 or thereabouts. It is more than probable that the dialects of colonists, of which the earliest came to the Bernician shores, north of Tweed, more than 90 years before the establishment of Ida at 2 A 360 Mr. Carr on the Northumbrian Dialect, &c. Bamburgh, would differ perceptibly from each other. The strong North-Bernic Anglian was probably heard in the tract afterwards called Lothiane, some time before a cognate idiom disturbed the Celtic speech between the Tweed and Tyne. But if so, the speech of Lothiane had not only a separate, but an earlier origin, than ours on this side of Tweed; and, with reference to the subsequent Scottish kingdom, it had a national origin. As the standard English is fundamentally of Anglo-Saxon origin, so was the standard Scottish fundament- ally of Lothenic-Anglian formation. However obscure may be the Jutish element, which it probably included, this may have had its share in determining the distinctive pronuncia- tion, cadence, and idiomatic diction of the language, and is not to be ignored. Subsequently, this form of the wide- spread speech of the Angles may be called Old-Lothenian, in contra-distinction to the Old-Northumbrian south of the Tweed. In our own times the form of speech which belongs to Lothiane, inclusive of the shires of Roxburgh and Berwick, differs from that of the present county of Northumberland, except where the close neighbourhood and intercourse of the populations has produced an intermediate sub-dialect. Besides the causes already adduced, another has certainly operated to preserve a strong archaic pronunciation in the large tract constituting old Lothiane; and this is, that the Anglian, as here spoken, was, from early times downward to a comparatively late epoch, acquired as a new tongue, and carefully studied, for the intercourse of life, by numerous per- sons of Celtic race, either living in the country, or forming large communities in the regions adjoining. At first these were the native Britons of Bernicia, who were in possession of the land, when the Jutes and Anglians came in and dispossessed them of as much as could be occupied by these strangers. The language of the latter, as that of a more powerful race, more advanced in the arts of war, agriculture, and navigation, would be acquired by many of the Bernicians, and by numbers of their females taken captive in continued raids. The low country of Lothiane, including Berwick and Roxburgh shires, from the natural richness of its soil so favourable to pasturage and to grain, did undoubtedly con- tain a far larger British population than the cold and stub- born coast-land soil of the region between Tyne and Tweed ; which must have been extensively covered by marshy vegeta- tion, or by forests and thickets requiring much labour to clear them away, upon a soil offering little promise to the clearer. — Mr. Carr on the Northumbrian Dialect, &ce. 361 But in Lothiane the Anglian tongue would be spoken by a con- siderable population, either purely British, or British on the mother’s side. Whatever faults they might commit in speak- ing, they would generally avoid those of the lowest and most ignorant Angles, striving to imitate the speech of the leaders and of men in good position: just as we see the Welsh, the Irish, and the Highlanders of our own times successfully avoiding the vulgarisms of the degraded English and Scotch, among whom their poverty compells them to live. At a later period, when the Scottish kings established their throne at Edinburgh, the Scoto-Celtic race, speaking Gaelic, became diffused in numerous settlements among the Anglian population of Lothiane. This is testified not only by history, but by Gaelic names of places extensively dif- fused, and proclaiming themselves to the most unobservant. It is further proved by the physical character of the inhabit- ants; the frequency of very dark hair and eyes, and the osseous structure visibly exhibiting Scoto-Celtic characteristics, which combined with the Gothic have rendered the frame one of signal strength and power. There prevails in this tract a strongly marked, prominent, and shaggy eyebrow, never seen in any purely Teutonic or Scandinavian country, and indicating a strong influx of that Celtic race from the South of Europe, which came into Caledonia from Ireland, but retains the manifest impress of a primitive Aquitanian and Spanish home. Now the Scoto-Celtic people would learn Anglian as a foreign tongue. They would speak it as the Anglian chiefs, not as the vulgar, for the Celtic taste in language is ever pure and elevated. Not long after this period, and side by side with the early English language and literature, arose the language and literature of the Scottish court and nation. As the early English tongue so did the early Scottish gain ground, and eventually supersede the Norman-French, as the vehicle of important records, laws, grants, and charters. Its early poetic literature is nowise inferior to that of the larger king- dom; nor are the chronicles and other prose compositions of Scotland, written in the tongue of Lothiane, less interesting, less eloquent, or less full of promise than those which were produced in the larger and more populous realm of England. The two languages indeed differed not more than did the ancient Greek of Attica from that of Peloponnesus. They were sister tongues, mutually intelligible, yet varying con- 362 Mr. Carr on the Northumbrian Dualece &e. siderably in genius, were cultivated independently and capable of honorable and invigorating rivalry in their pro- gress. The Lothenian variation of the Anglian tongue differs from the Northumbrian very sensibly. Its vowel-sounds are broader; and some of the consonants also exhibit marked peculiarities. The gh, representing the Anglo-Saxon h, (for ch,) preserves its ancient strong and vigorous utterance as a guttural ; as, in high, thigh, mght, fight ; pronounced heich, theich, neicht, feicht. 'This power of gh is exactly that of ch in German. Another characteristic of the language north of Tweed is a peculiar palatic sound given to the 7, which does not seem to be confined to those occasions when it represents the Anglo- Saxon //, but to prevail generally, It may not improbably be a relic. of old Cambro-British pronunciation prevalent in Lothiane. In producing this tone the tongue is not applied to the gums of the upper front teeth, but to the middle of the palate. It appears to be a modification of h/, the aspirated J, but with an aspiration less strong and marked than that heard in the Welsh //. Lastly, the 7 north of Tweed is pronounced with a very strong vibration, which most probably is referable to the Anglian fr, though not confined to words or syllables wherein this was used, but extended to the letter 7 generally. The Scottish pronunciation of 7 strikes the Northumbrian ear as an archaic, manly, and even stately utterance. We have it also in our own sub-dialect of the high valleys in the Cheviots, and from Wooler northward. Nothing is more likely than that the popular character of pulpit eloquence in the kirk of Scotland, and the early estab- lishment of parochial schools, may have codperated power- fully in conserving the old popular pronunciation, at the same time conferring upon it a certain worth and dignity, not pos- sessed by more uncultivated rustic dialects, such as the Northumbrian too soon became. We may conclude this notice of the Lothenic-Anglian by observing, that the present participle is pronounced in it pre- cisely as on the Northumbrian side of the Tweed, that is to say, archaically. Indeed all the northern Anglian forms of speech seem to agree in this respect; the Danic-Anglian of Yorkshire, and Norse-Anglhan of Cumberland, concurring with the Northumbrian and Lothenian. Having thus adverted to the position of the Northumbrian Mr, Carr on the Northumbrian Dialect, &c. 363 dialect among the sister dialects of the parent Anglian, I come to the subjects at the head of this paper. In trying to write the dialect of our county experimentally, in a more correct manner than is commonly done, in order to exhibit its character, I have been struck by the fact that the present participle of its verbs is nowise represented by our modern English syllable zxg. In the Northumbrian participle there is not the slightest trace of nasal sound, neither is the vowel-sound that of short z. It is an obscure vowel, inter- mediate between short @ and short uw, so that to express making, (faczens,) we must write makan’ or makand. 'That the sign of elision ought to be inserted, if we do not boldly and more correctly restore the original d, and write makand, is certain. And that we should in truth restore the d, the following reasoning will show. In our dialect as in other cognate ones, not only final and unaccented syllables like this, are apt to drop the sound of d after m, but the same omission holds good in many radical words where the combination nd occurs; yet both letters are still very properly retained in writing, for etymological reasons, and to preserve the gram- matical forms. ‘Thus the following words are often pro- nounced in Northumberland as if there were no d: and, hand, grand, land, wand, stand, command: garland also where the last syllable is not under the stress, would always be pronounced garlan’ ; and so again fend, lend, mend, pre- tend, as if fenn, lenn, menn, pretenn. Now, seeing that our dialect can lay claim to this present participle in its old form, just as truly as it could in olden times when the termination was accurately written, we de- prive the Northumbrian of one of its best features if we do not represent with the pen, or in type, that which we certainly convey by our pronunciation. I mean, of course, we ought so to write when we wish to give an example of the local dialect. For instance, in such a work as a Glossary, these participles ought to be pretty fully represented. In the south of England people say “ I am comin’, goin’, lovin’, thinkin’.”” This distinct utterance of the sound of short @ or close e, indicates a wide dialectic variation, though the nasal sound has departed equally as with us, whether the word be a participle or a verbal noun, and the narrow vowel- sound of 2 is the same in both. These southern participles might be written with e, as dovend. It was only in the 16th and 17th centuries, or even later, that the practice of writing makand, lovand, singand, comand, 364 Mr. Carr on the Northumbrian Dialect, &e. runnand, (and so throughout our present participles,) was entirely left off in the north of England and in Scotland, as may be seen in documents out of number. In our popular poetry, and in all written specimens of the dialect of Northumberland, great interest would be conferred by its restoration. The sound of zg is absolutely never heard in the popular Northumbrian, except im accented syllables such as bring, king, ring: making is instinctively pronounced makan’ or makun’. The cause of the loss of the English participial termination in and, clearly lay in the previous loss of the participial or adjectival inflections which served to define the present par- ticiple as such. When these inflections fell into disuse, and the other distinct inflections of the verbal nouns in mg also had been lost, the two paris of speech became confounded in the ideas of unlearned writers, and the participle gradually slid into the form of the verbal noun,—very much to the wrong and detriment of our language. Let us now turn our attention to the verbal noun, for here again the Northumbrian exhibits an interesting remnant of Anglian usage. In the Anglian, as in the Anglo-Saxon, or West Saxon, the more primitive verbs formed nouns of action in én Js but a large number of verbs of a derivative character formed them in wng; and verbal nouns, or nouns of action in wng, were on the whole the more frequent. Now the Northumbrian dialect has evidently taken the latter, unconsciously, as its model, as the standard English has taken the former. For all our verbal nouns of this kind are pronounced with an obscure sound nearer to that of short w than to short 2. What then ought to be the spelling in order to give effect to this peculiarity of the dialect ? The vowel y originally bad this very intermediate character between wu and 2, and those who are familiar with the old northern English, and old Scottish literature and muniments, will remember how much addicted our ancestors were to writing this termination as yzg. It appears to me that if we recur to their usage, and merely add a grave accent over the y to indicate its somewhat exceptional sound, akin to short wu, we Shall do wisely. We should then write :—the makyng of the hay ; the sendyng the boy; the fellyng the tree; the ploughyng of the fallow; the servyng; the shearyng; the harvestyng. Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 365 Whenever we might use the articles a or the, or an adjec- tive, before such words, they are of course nouns, not partici- ples, and ought to be written yng. Whenever, on the other hand, the verb to be precedes, as in “‘T am coming,” “ he was seeking,” “‘ they will be dying,” or whenever the word takes the place of an adjective, as in “the coming year,” “ the dying bird,” of course it is a par- ticiple, and in Northumbrian may properly be written com- and, dyand, seekand, &c. In some instances different views may be taken as to whether an English word with the termination zvg be used as a noun or as a participle; but this is not the place to enter into such nice considerations, and sometimes either view may be admissible. The Battle of Flodden Field. By the Rev. R. Jonzs, Vicar of Branxton. WHEN recording an event which has taken place more than three hundred years ago, it is necessary that particular atten- tion be paid to every historical fact, to every document, and every circumstance bearing on that event. Our information, as far as we are able to judge, must be gained from authentic sources, and before we can substantiate any occurrence of importance, as a fact to be relied on, we must give our proofs from history, or assign sufficient grounds why we conclude that such and such things would have been done, and why they were done. In my description of this great and important Border battle, which shook the kingdom of Scotland from one end to the other, and filled it with the deepest grief, I shall give a succinct account of the state of feeling which predominated in the two countries north and south of the Tweed; describe the assembling of the two armies, their dress and defensive weapons; and notice any other event or circumstance which more particularly points out the identical Field on which the battle was so obstinately and so heroically fought. A short time previous to this battle the two nations had petty grievances to complain of, which, although of minor importance, nevertheless stimulated each other to acts of re- prisal, especially as neither would make concessions to the 366 Rey. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. other. The Bartons in Scotland and the Howards in Eng- land had met and fought on sea; and the Borderers—those fierce, wild, and restless men, residing on the banks of the Tweed, belonging to both nations—had met in deadly combat time after time, sometimes few in number, headed by a daring and chosen chief, and at other times, but in more remote ages, under the command of the head of a clan, as a Douglas, a Home, or a Percy, when the strife for superiority, plunder, and victory terminated in torrents of blood. This. hatred of each other had been smouldering in the hearts of the men of England and Scotland for generations past, and it only required the aspiring touch of ambition to kindle it into a flame. From the days of the invasion under Edward I. the men of Scotland had justly and deliberately brooded over the wrongs inflicted upon them by that rapa- cious king. A Wallace and a Bruce had shewn what their countrymen could perform in daring feats of combat, and on the bloody field of Bannockburn—a battle which makes the hearts of all true Scotchmen, even at this day, burn with heroic valour—they had prostrated their “powerful foe and tarnished England’s glory. From this time to the battle of Flodden, a deadly hatred of each other’s power had manifested itself at various times, and in various ways. Scotland and France held together for their own mutual benefit, and the intercourse between these two nations was of the most friendly and durable nature, even continuing down to the unhappy days of the unfortun- ate, but ever to be lamented, Mary queen of Scotland. The Border marches on both sides of the Tweed were occu- pied by men who delighted in plunder and slaughter. No sooner had the sun gone down and the shades of night ap- peared, than these bold, fearless men were across the fords, pillaging and killing, robbing and destroying, and their most daring feats of personal valour resounded in exulting joy at their wassail feasts, and in their homes, night after night, for the amusement and excitement of those who came to praise, to laugh, and to hear. , Such was the feeling and state of the countries of England and Scotland when King James IV. ascended the throne—a throne that was spotted at the very commencement of his reign, with the blood of intestine war, which always haunted that monarch from the beginning of his sovereign authority to his untimely death on the fatal field of Flodden. He had married Margaret, the eldest sister of Henry VIII., from Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 367 which alliance we might conclude that there would be peace between the two kingdoms; but from the first day of his ascending the Scottish throne, his affection and interest, counsel and influence turned to the old ally of his kingdom— the king of France. Henry, who had proclaimed war, and made every preparation for carrying it into effect, was on the eve of invading the French territory, his forces were collected together, and his ships were ready for their embarkation. He had however, previous to his departure from England, ap- pointed Thomas Earl of Surrey, Lieutenant-General of the northern counties, advising him to use all diligence and cau- tion, and to neglect nothing that would tend to the welfare and security of his kingdom, for he had well grounded suspicions, that the king of Scotland was secretly preparing an army, either to assist the king of France, or to make inroads into his kingdom with a view of invading it during his absence. In the meantime James had done all he possibly could to persuade Henry to remain in England ; but unfortunately all his entreaties were in vain. Whereupon he instantly pro- claimed war against England, well knowing that by so doing he should weaken the strength of Henry’s army, by compel- ling him to send sufficient force to protect the northern parts of his kingdom. His plans were no sooner devised than they were put in execution. Scotland sounded with the clang of the hammer from north to south, and from east to west: men were resolute and determined —full of heroic ardour for their king and country and for their own personal glory. Once more were their swords, spears, axes, and arrows sharpened and burnished for the deadly combat, after hav- ing lain for nearly a generation bygone, in the dust and cobweb of their own mountain and lowland homes, The herald of war sent by their beloved king had passed throughout the length and breadth of the land, summoning the men capable of bearing arms to meet him in the course of three weeks. This summons was obeyed by every man with alacrity, cheer- fulness, and delight. Bannockburn with all its glory, and with all its results, was the watchword which passed from town to town, from mountain to mountain, and rested nightly on the compressed lips of all, who had girded on the sword for the battle strife. One hundred thousand men met to- gether in thisshort space of time, fully equipped and accoutred, on the Borough Moor, near Edinburgh, with provisions for forty days, ready at the word of their king to march and to 2 AA 368 Rey. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. follow him to whatever part he wished to lead them. In this number, however, we must include the attendants and camp-followers, the usual train concomitants of an army, and not consider them all as fighting men. The news of these warlike preparations stirred up the Border blood to feverish heat; men felt themselves carried away by restlessness and excitement, every one was ready for revenge, and panted for conquest and for glory. Under these overpowering feelings a band of Northumbrians, commanded by one of their chiefs, crossed the Tweed and entered Scot- land, and as a prelude to the war, commenced hostilities by burning and pillaging, and carrying off considerable spoil. This daring act of depradation so aggravated the Warder of the Marches, Alexander Lord Home, who had this part of the country under his more immediate protection and guard- ianship, that he hastily got together 3000 horsemen, crossed the 'I'weed, laid the northern parts of Northumberland under contribution, burned several of the villages and amassed much plunder, which many of this marauding party carried off in safety to their own country. But as Lord Home and the rest of his men were returning in a careless manner loaded with spoil, through the woody country between Wooler and Mil- field, they were suddenly surrounded by a large force of horse-archers and bowmen, under the command of Sir Wil- liam Bulmer, who had concealed themselves amongst the trees and tall broom, through which the path lay that Home and his straggling horsemen were drowsily trotting their jaded steeds over. This conflict was short, sharp, and deadly, but decisive. Four hundred were killed, many of them before they saw their enemy, or heard the twang of the bow that sent the messenger of death amongst them. More than two hundred were taken prisoners, amongst whom was George, the brother of Lord Home, who had accompanied him in this Border-raid. He however and the rest of his men fled with precipitation to the banks of the river, crossed the Leet ford, after leaving all their booty, and a considerable number of horses in the hands of the victors. In these superstitious times, even trifling events were construed into acts of importance, and this failure on the part of the Scots, at the commencement of the war, was considered by many as an omen of ill luck. This skirmish took place about a month before the battle of Flodden, and was generally known by the name of “ The ill rode.” Be this as it may, there was no lack of resolution and manly Rey. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 369 prowess throughout Scotland. ‘The flame of war had heroic- ally kindled even in the bosom of the gentler sex; their fingers, like the Carthagenian ladies in the days of Hannibal, were occupied day and night in warlike preparations, and in embroidering pennons and flags, which their husbands, sons, and brothers swore to defend with their lives when in battle; and verily most truly and manfully did they fulfil their vows on the fatal field of Flodden. All was animation and excite- ment—from the Palace of Holyrood to the castle there was the constant tramp of warriors cased in armour. The wild music of their own mountain glens and highland homes, sounded in the dead of night, and the rattling of the horses hoofs, together with the shrill ring of the trumpet, kept all in the highest state of inquisitiveness and curiosity. ‘The messengers and heralds were passing to and fro, the streets were full of men and women, and whenever the king made his appearance amongst them, the enthusiastic clash of arms, and the shout of defiance spread from throng to throng, till the echo from the rocky crags reverberated the prolonged martial sound. Such was Scotland and her romantic city, in the early part of August 1513. The king and the chief nobles of his king- dom held diverse consultations respecting the proclamation of war with England. Many were against invading that kingdom, and the queen used all her influence and entreaties to persuade him not to break peace with her brother. The arts of necromancy were called in to aid their cause, with the hope of diverting him from such a rash and hazardous enterprise. The superstition of the age was fraught with unnatural sights and wonders ; the private chapel of Linlith- gow was made the scene of ghostly apparitions, during the very time the king was on his knees at prayer: and un- earthly ominous voices proclaimed in the dead of night, from the ancient cross of Edinburgh, the names of many of the great men of Scotland who should fall on the day of battle. Neither persuasion nor supernatural events had the least influence over the mind of James; he was fully bent on his warlike intentions, and no power on earth could divert him from them. His army stood now before him; men from all parts of his kingdom had obeyed his summons, and were ready to do his bidding. Never before or since had such an host of warriors assembled together in Scotland, and never were men more anxious to march across the borders of the Tweed. The only certain way of standing high in the king’s 370 Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. favour was to embrace his views, to second his projects, and to give a willing and helping hand in furthering his designs of invading England. This passion for war was excited to the highest pitch by the fostering flattery of many of his nobles. Andrew Fore- man, Bishop of Moray, a man of mercenary character, who had been bought over by the gold of the king of France, urged him with all his influence and persuasion to put in execution those ardent desires for war which had engrossed his constant thoughts for several months past. He repre- sented by letter ihe cowardly act of delay, the base and dastard conduct of withholding from the strife, especially when his old ally was threatened with the danger of inva- sion from so powerful a foe as Henry king of England. He painted in glowing colours the sure prospect of honour, glory, and victory which was certain to crown his exertions the moment he crossed the Borders. Nothing was left undone or omitted that would stimulate him to begin and carry on the war; even the queen of France had dubbed him her own true knight, and to this effect had sent him a ring from her own finger of very great value, begging him by letter not to hesi- tate in ‘his noble and manly purpose, “but to march, if it were only for her sake, three feet on English ground.” Everything being now in readiness, the camp on the Borough Moor was broken up, and orders were given that the army should march south for the banks of the Tweed. The drums and the trumpets sounded on every side and in every direction, and all was bustle and excitement. The whole inhabitants of Edinburgh and the neighbourhood for miles around had assembled together, to witness the sight of a hundred thousand men marching to invade England. The Borough Moor was crowded with soldiers and horses, oxen and baggage-waggons, tents, pennons and flags. ‘The com- manders of the different divisions, and men at arms, were clad in mail from head to foot, highly polished, and mounted on chargers of great power and mettle. The Borderers rode horses of less strength and elegance, but of great speed and activity, and their armour was generally of a lighter descrip- tion, more adapted for men accustomed to sudden forage, or for pursuing a routed enemy. ‘The foot soldiers were clad after the custom and manner of that part of Scotland from which they came. Those from the towns wore the steel cap and gorget, with a light coat of mail fitting closely to the body, but in no way impeding either the arms ‘or the legs. i. Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 371 The men from the Lowlands wore the iron cap fastened under the chin with scale iron clasps, and their coats or jerkins were made of leather, or strong linen quilted with light scales of iron, overlapping each other, but perfectly flexible and strong, and proof against the arrow point. The High- land men retained the tartan and plaid, together with the blue bonnet and eagle’s feather, much the same as those of the present Highland regiments, but of a coarser quality. Most of the foot soldiers carried on their left arm the round shield or target made of sheet iron, plated tin, or wood covered with leather. Their weapons were the long spear, fifteen feet in length, fashioned after those used by the Grecian phalanx, and by the English at the battle of Crecy; their swords were both long and short, either curved or straight, depending whether they were worn by horse or foot soldiers ; the former had also the short battle-axe, with edge and spear point, a most formidable weapon in close combat, made either to cut through the helmet or coat of mail, or to penetrate the head or body; and many carried the long Moorish pike, the bow and sheaf of arrows. Thus accoutred and equipped, the army set forward on its march for England; all were animated with hope, and acclamations and prayers for its success met it on every side, and in every town and village through which it passed. The heavy artillery, consisting of seventeen great guns, but accord- ing to some historians, twenty-four, was drawn by oxen, and generally went in advance of the army, and the horse and foot followed in large divisions, In this manner the army passed through the country from Edinburgh to the banks of the Tweed. On Sunday, the 21st August, 1513, the town of Coldstream was full of soldiers. The Lee’s haugh and the country round were covered with men and tents. Never before or since had such an armed host of Scotchmen met on the banks of the Tweed, and thousands on that night slept for the last time on Scottish ground. The sun had no sooner risen on Monday morning, the memorable 22nd August, than this vast assem- blage of 100,000 men were all astir. The king, in all the panoply of martial glory, passed from rank to rank; while his nobles, dressed in mail armour, headed their respective divi- sions, and the enthusiastic shouts of the men of all ranks were heard far and wide on the English side of the Tweed. The ford at the mouth of the Leet, and the one in those days on the haugh, a little to the west of the Dedda and nearly opposite the 372 Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. mill at Cornhill, were crowded with men and horses, oxen and baggage-waggons, crossing to the other side. The Borderers, under Lord Home, led the way, for they were considered as the vanguard of the army, being perfectly well acquainted with every inch of ground on both sides of the river, and no doubt but he and his men thirsted for revenge on account of their recent defeat on the plains of Milfield. He would eye with especial favour and martial joy, the different companies forming in rank and marching order, the moment they set their foot on English soil. They were now in their enemy’s country, and every face they met was that of a foe. The castles of Wark and Nor- ham were immediately besieged, and soon fell into their hands. The latter was in those days garrisoned by men in the pay of Thomas Ruthal, Bishop of Durham, who in his account of the Battle of Flodden, written only eleven days after the event, thus bemoans his loss to Cardinal Wolsey, then with King Henry before the walls of Terouenne :— “* After right herty recommendations to reherse unto you the ereate sorow and pensiveness that I have had and taken for the mysfortune of my Castell at Norham, whiche by the cruell tyrany of the king of Scots was lately taken, and a ereate part thereof rased and cast down.” He then goes on to say, but in a very strange and silly manner, coupling St. Cuthbert with the Almighty :— But I thanke o* Lorde God and my patrone Seint Cutbert, who net suffered anny iniurye dispute or displeasure doon to his churche to passe onpunys- shed, that greate tyranows and cruell dede is well requyted and revenged. For on the IX. day of this instante monethe of Sepr., after a muclouse greate conflicte and terrible bataill, the king of Scots wt the greatest parte of the lords and nobles of his reame wer in playne bataill vanquyshed, outhrown and slayn.” The castle of Norham was taken possession of on Monday the 29th, one week after crossing the fords near Coldstream. Considerable plunder was found within the walls, all of which was carried away by the Scotch. Etal was next attacked and soon fell into their hands ; but before Ford, which was then occupied by Lady Heron, there was more difficulty to contend with. Stipulations had been made by that lady, under peculiar arrangements, that her castle should not be thrown down. These were agreed to by James under certain conditions, but whether fulfilled, or not, on Lady Heron’s part, history is scant on the subject ; for it is very well known that the assault took place, and consider- Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 373 able damage was done to the castle. This lady has been accused of playing a deceitful part towards the king, for at the time, she in all appearance seemed friendly to his cause, she was carrying on a secret correspondence with the Earl of Surrey, and giving him a full account of the Scotch army, the castles they had assaulted and taken, the number and condi- tion of the men, and the position of their camp on Flodden Hill. England in the mean time had not been dormant; she had her emissaries and her spies in all parts, especially along the Borders. From Berwick to Carlisle the Border prickers on their fleet and wiry steeds were to be heard of, and many passed over stealthily on foot to hear and to see what Scot- land was doing. Even the movements in the Palace of Holy- rood, and on the Borough Moor were not concealed from her ; and, although the mode of travelling in those days was not so quick as with us, yet did intelligence of the army crossing the Tweed reach the Earl of Surrey in a very short time, not- withstanding he was then more than two hundred miles from Coldstream. News from the North of England was greedily sought after by men in the South, and the rumours of war were the engrossing topics from the peasant to the prince. In the latter end of July, Surrey marched through the streets of London, with a few hundreds of his retainers, on his way to Yorkshire. The Castle of Pontefract was made the rendezvous where many of the warriors were to meet. Here plans were formed and orders given for summoning the horse and foot soldiers to make all possible speed to meet him in Newcastle. In this town he was joined by lord Dacre, who commanded the horse, Sir William Bulmer, Sir Marmaduke Constable, and many others belonging to the northern coun- ties. Cheshire, Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland sent their thousands from the West; and Yorkshire, Durham, and Northumberland from the East. At this critical time Lord Thomas Howard, High Admiral of England, landed at the mouth of the Tyne with 5000 soldiers sent from the army in France by the king to assist in protecting his kingdom. Before Surrey left Durham, the celebrated banner dedicated to St. Cuthbert, was delivered to him by Bishop Ruthel, whose childish superstition of its marvellous power is ridicu- lously mentioned in the letter from which I have already quoted. England was agitated throughout her northern counties: the war feeling had kindled in the breast of her warriors, and they had buckled on their armour, and put 374 Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. themselves in readiness for the battle fray. The queen herself had become infected with the chivalrous contagion; she and her ladies, like those in Scotland, were closely employed in making flags and colours, and in one of her letters to Car- dinal Wolsey she expressed herself thus, “‘ I am horribly busy in making standards, banners, and badges.” Men from the East, West, and South of England came pouring on in quick succession. Durham and Newcastle were thronged with horse and foot soldiers. Day and night brought fresh supplies ; no sooner had thousands marched on for the North, than thousands took up their places from the South. The watchword, that the king of Scotland had in- vaded England, and was throwing down castle after castle, spread with astonishing rapidity from town to town, and every tongue resounded with the depredations committed by the Scottish army. Surrey had ordered all the men capable of bearing arms to hurry on for Alnwick, a town whose inhabit- ants knew well the strife of Border war, even from the days of Malcolm III. king of Scotland, whose blood was treacher- ously spilt before her gates, to the hour when Surrey’s forces assembled within her walls on their march for Flodden Field. By the 5th September their tents were pitched at Bolton, a small hamlet, about five miles west of Alnwick, and north of the river Aln. Here they were joined by the Borderers, and the men of Northumberland under their different command- ers, all animated with the greatest zeal of doing battle with their foes. They were clad much in the same manner as the Scotch. The leaders and the men at arms rode strong power- ful horses, and they were covered from head to foot in burn- ished mail armour. The warriors in those days never con- sidered themselves equipped for battle unless they were cased ‘in steel or iron. The struggle for victory was generally hand to hand, especially after they had discharged their arrows, so that the shock of battle was more terrible when each man singled out his foe, and was determined to conquer or to die, than it even now is, under all the improvement of the de- structive implements of war. A few hours combat sufficed to cover the field with the dead and dying. The arrow and spear points soon did their fatal work, and the bill, the battle-axe, and the sword, wielded in the hands of the com- batants, quickly laid their thousands in the dust. The two armies were now drawing nearer and nearer to each other, the day of battle was close at hand, a few hours wafted intelligence from camp to camp, and all were preparing Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 375 for the encounter. Surrey had challenged the king to meet him on Friday the 9th September, and James had accepted the challenge, telling him, that had he been in | Edinburgh, he would gladly have hastened to obey the sum- mons. At this time the king was strongly encamped on the eastern end of Flodden Hill, a position that commanded a view of the country to the north and east, and looked directly across that part of Northumberland over which he expected the English army to march. The Till, a deep, slow, slug- eish river, lay on the north side, and extended with its tribut- aries from the neighbourhood of Wooler to the Tweed by Twizel bridge; consequently, he neither expected nor dreaded an army from that quarter. Surrey, on the afternoon of Tuesday the 6th, removed his army from the field at Bolton to Wooler haugh, where he encamped till the morning of the 8th. After having tried different plans to induce James to meet him on Milfield Plain, but without success, he gave orders for his men to break up their encampment and to march in the direction of Doddingion, through which village the English army passed on their way to Barmoor Wood, where they encamped forthe night. This sudden movement of Surrey caused James to turn his watchful eye towards Scotland. All was surmise and conjecture throughout the camp on Flodden Hill, and no one could assign a satisfactory reason why he marched on the north side of the Till in a direct line for the banks of the Tweed. But no sooner had the fatal day arrived, when the two armies, in accordance with the challenge given and accepted, were to meet, than Surrey’s host was on the move and the mystery was revealed. Orders were given that the artillery and heavy baggage were to pass over the bridge at Twizel, and the van-guard under Lord Thomas Howard was to march in the same direction. The passing of the English army over the bridge at Twizel, is thus graphically drawn by Scott in his poem of Marmion :— From Flodden ridge The Scots beheld the English host Leave Barmoor Wood, their evening post, And heedful watched them as they crossed The Till by Twizel Bridge. Hich sight it is, and haughty while They dive into the deep defile, Beneath the cavern cliff they fall— Beneath the castle’s airy wall, 2 B 376 = Rey. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. By rock, by oak, by hawthorn tree, Troop after troop are disappearing Troop after troop their banners rearing Upon the eastern bank you see, Still pouring down the rocky den Where flows the sullen Till. And rising from the dim-wood glen Standards on standards, men on men In slow succession still. And sweeping o’er the gothic arch, And pressing on in countless march, To gain the opposing hill. From Barmoor Wood to Twizel Bridge, and to the banks of the Till by Crookham, all was commotion and bustle, for the different divisions were marching to the various points assigned them by their commanders. The fords across that river, from the castle at Ford to its confluence with the Tweed, were well known to many in the English army. The bastard Heron, who was born and brought up in the country, a daring Border trooper, who did good service in the battle field, and who had very recently joined Surrey, together with Sir William Bulmer and others perfectly acquainted with all the natural difficulties of the river, were present to give counsel on that eventful day ; and before noon, thou- sands were across the Till, forming in the different companies they were to march to Flodden. We may well suppose that so many soldiers hastening for the battle field would be the engrossing news of the day. Surrey’s movements would reach Berwick and Coldstream long before Lord Thomas Howard had passed all his men, artillery, and heavy baggage over Twizel Bridge. The en- campment at Flodden would be closely watched by all the Borderers, and every eminence in the neighbourhood of Cold- stream would be covered with spectators. Many a gallant Scotchman would cross the Tweed at the mouth of the Leet, either with a determination of mingling in the fight, or with the intention of plundering their enemy should he be worsted in. the battle. The field above the monument leading to the bridge, called the “‘ Gallows Knowe,” would be crowded with men and women. The whole town of Coldstream would be there viewing the Scotch army taking up its position on the ridge of Branxton, and at that distance, many would be able to see the king’s flag fluttering in the breeze. At the time the English army encamped at Barmoor Wood, there were two celebrated fords across the Till lying between the castles of Ford and Etall; one called the Willow ford, Rev. R. Jones on the Batile of Flodden Field. 377 a little to the north of the village of Crookham, in the direc- tion of Etall; the other to the east of Crookham called Sandy ford. The Heaton ford is not so much as mentioned by any ancient writer of this battle; nor, can I understand, how at this day it should be pointed out, as the ford over which part of the English forces passed when marching for the battle field. It is surrounded on the north side with precipitous banks, not at all calculated for a multitude of men and horses clothed in armour to cross over; indeed, I am fully persuaded that this was not the ford over which the Earl of Surrey and the rear-guard passed on their march to Flodden. From Watchlaw, an eminence east of Etall, and from Barmoor Wood, where they encamped for the night, almost a direct line may be drawn, leading to a haugh or tongue of land bounding the Till below Crookham. The two fords alluded to are placed here, and one retains to this day the very name mentioned by Hall, who wrote an account of the battle in 1548, or 35 years after it had taken place, as “the little brook called Sandyford ’’ over which the English passed; and the old ballad, which is supposed to have been written not later than Queen Elizabeth’s time, also mentions this ford :— And never flee while life did last, But rather die by dint of sword ; Thus over plains and hills they passed Until they came to Sandyford. With these strong evidences before me, I do not hesitate in affirming, that this is the very ford through which Surrey and the rear-guard plashed, although mentioned in such a trifling manner as “ A brook of breadth a tailor’s yard.” The small stream of Pallinsburn empties itself into the Till at this place, and is known by the same name, which cer- tainly might be stepped over, being not more than three or four feet in breadth. Before the army commenced its march from Barmoor Wood, no doubt the village of Branxton would be mentioned as the place of rendezvous, at which both the van-guard and the rear-guard should meet. At the time of the battle, and for more than two centuries after, a low piece of ground lying to the north of the parish of Branxton, through which the small stream of Pallinsburn runs, was covered with water to the extent of more than a mile and a half in length, and in many parts more than two hundred and fifty yards across. 378 Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. In the centre of this bog or moat of water, and opposite the road leading to Mardon, there was an ancient bridge, called by the old people, ‘‘ Branx Brig.” This bridge, according to the tradition of the oldest inhabitants, whose ancestors for genera- tions had resided in Branxton and the neighbourhood, was always pointed out as the bridge over which the English passed on their way to battle. The foundations of this bridge were to be seen thirty or forty years ago; and indeed some of the stones still remain, but in making proper levels through the bog, the greater part has been moved away. The rear-guard, after having passed Sandyford, would march westward for the village of Branxton ; one part might pass to the south of Pallinsburn bog, and the other through the centre over ‘ Branx Brig,” both close in sight of each other, and take up their position south and east of the village. The van-guard, under Lord Thomas Howard, would march, after passing over Twizel Bridge, on the beaten road by way of Cornhill, then turn for the Barelees toll on the road that formerly led to Branxton, and fake up its position to the west of the church and village, both of which in those days were considerably larger than at present. These two columns, although a few miles apart, would be in constant communication with each other. ‘The Borderers on their fleet steeds would be galloping to and from each division ; orders would be given, received, and cheerfully obeyed by men who were expecting almost every moment to be engaged in deadly combat with their enemy. All eyes would be turned towards the Scotch army posted in battle array on the hill before them, and every man would hasten to take up his place assigned him on the battle field by his commander. The van-guard under Lord Thomas Howard, assisted by his brother Sir Edmond Howard and Sir Marmaduke Con- stable, formed in position to the south-west of the church, in the fields leading to Moneylaws; behind these three divisions were placed the baggage-waggons, as a protection to their rear, and amongst these soldiers was the standard bearer, Sir John Forster, belonging to the bishopric of Durham, who carried aloof the banner of St. Cuthbert. The Earl of Surrey, who commanded the rear-guard, was placed near the vicarage house, assisted by Sir Philip Tylney, Henry Lord Scrope of Bolton, and others of the nobility of the northern counties, and on his right and left by Lord Dacre with 2000 horse drawn up in his rear; immediately in and Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 379 around the village, extending a little to the west of the church, and near the centre of the whole English line, in readiness to give assistance wherever he and his men might be required. With Dacre was the bastard Heron, who commanded a large troop of horse, than whom none was more formidable on the field, and none more willing for the battle encounter. On his left eastward, he was ably supported by a numerous divi- sion of horse and foot soldiers under the able command of Sir Edward Stanley, assisted by Sir William Molyneux and Sir Henry Kirkley from the county of Cheshire, placed on the fields south-east of the village leading to Mardon. The English forces now drawn up in six divisions extend- ing from the east to the west of the village, would cover considerably more than a mile and a half in length ; but from the narrow position of the ground, nearly all in a line. The westward division under Lord Thomas Howard would be hid from the rest of the English forces on account of an elevation of ground a few hundred yards from the church, supposed to be “ the Piper’s Hill” alluded to in history, around which the most deadly conflict took place, and-where it is supposed the king fell. Opposite this formidable force stood the Scottish army on the ridge of Branxton Hill, waiting anxiously the order for commencing the dreadful onslaught. To the extreme left, on the sloping part of the hill, looking towards Wark Castle, Home Castle, and Coldstream, were drawn up the wild and undisciplined Highlanders, and stout Borderers under Hunt- ley and Lord Home; to the right of these forces looking north, those troops under Crawford and Montrose; a little further east the chivalric king with many of his nobles both in church and state, who comprised the best and bravest blood of Scotland; on his right, on the gentle slope of the eastern end of Branxton ridge, was the right wing under Lennox and Argyle, and the reserve under Bothwell a little to the south-east of the king’s troops. In this position stood the contending armies opposite each other, before the battle began. One elevated considerably above his opponent and commanding one of the most splendid views in the country, looking over the greater part of Ber- wickshire and Roxburghshire, and even extending beyond the hilly county of Selkirkshire— “¢ Where not a mountain rears its head unsung.” With this beautiful landscape before them to the far west and 380 = Rey. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. north-west, and the English army below them steadily form- ing in position and preparing for the battle ‘that was on the eve of commencement, thousands of the bravest men of Scotland, together with their beloved king, viewed for the last time the country that gave them birth, and which was shortly to weep and mourn over the death of so many of her great and heroic sons. Dr. Leyden, in a note to his ode on Flodden Field, mentions that on the evening previous to the battle, the Earl of Caithness, a young nobleman who had incurred King James’ displeasure for revenging an ancient feud, came to the encampment on Flodden Hill with three hundred young warriors all dressed in green, and submitted to the king’s mercy. James was so pleased with this mark of submission and loyal attachment, that he granted to him and his followers an immunity for past offences. The parchment on which this immunity was inscribed is said to be still preserved in the archives of the Earls of Caithness, and is marked with the drum strings, having been cut from the head of a drum, no other parchment being at hand. The Earl and his gallant followers perished to a man the next day on the fatal field of Flodden,. ever since which time it has been considered unlucky in Caithness to wear green, or to cross the Ord on a Monday, the day of the week on which he set out to join the king. The positions of the English forces were drawn up to face the different divisions of the Scotch army, where they had been for several hours patiently waiting the approach of Surrey ; for no sooner was it made known to James that the English were crossing the Till, than he moved from his encampment on Flodden Hill and took possession of the ridge of Branxton Hill, which gave him a full view of the country for several miles over which the van-guard was marching. He is blamed by several historians for abandon- ing his camp, where he was so strongly fortified; but any one who has examined the position of the ground, and taken into consideration the movements of Surrey, who was then marching between him and Scotland, and by this masterly manceuvre exposing the rear of his camp, and cutting him off from his own country, must admit that the king displayed no mean talent in generalship, when he selected such an advantageous and commanding position as that of Branxton Hill. The armies being now put in battle array confronting each Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 381 other, stood thus upon the field: Lord Thomas Howard with the van-guard was opposite Huntley and Home, Crawford and Montrose; the Earl of Surrey had chosen the ground opposite the king, where the royal flag was flying, and which positions were the centres of each army; Sir Edward Stan- ley who commanded the left wing of the rear-guard, was oppo- site Lennox and Argyle. The cannons were placed in front, along the two lines, at proper intervals between each division, and from the cannon balls picked up at various times on the field, we may almost conclude from the position in which they generally are found, that the greater number of shot fired by the Scotch were leaden balls, and by the English iron. It was now drawing near to 4 o’clock, and the sun was descending in the western sky; the clouds of night were about to cover the earth, yet was there time enough for thousands of the brave men, who were now standing gazing at each other, in the full vigour of manhood and health to be laid in the dust; when, lo! men were seen galloping along the brow of the hill, and on the plain below from rank to rank, and the trumpets sounded for the charge. All were in readiness and eager for the battle, the voices of the differ- ent commanders were distinctly heard, the clash of armour grated for a moment harshly on the ear, when in the next all was deadened by the roar of the guns, and the shouts of men engaged in the deadly strife. ‘¢ Then ordinance great anon out brast On either side with thundering thumps, And roaring guns with fire fast Then levelled out great leaden lumps.” OLD BALuap. The thunder of the cannon soon ceased on both sides, with- out doing any serious injury to either; a few shots from each party sufficed, neither of which could be considered very pro- ficient in the art of gunnery. The ground was uneven, and from the elevation of the guns the shot fell either short of the object aimed at, or passed considerably over the heads of the men, for many balls have been found north and south of the field of battle, and also along the side of the hill where the Scotch were stationed. Such fighting was too slow and desultory in its effects, either to satisfy the one or the other ; both sought closer quarters, and the struggle throughout was maintained from hand to hand. It is admitted by all who have written an account of the 382 Rev. R. Jones on the Batile of Flodden Field. battle, that the van-guard under Lord Thomas Howard was first engaged. His brother Sir Edmond Howard being in the extreme west of that division, was suddenly confronted by the Borderers under Lord Home, and the Highlanders under Gordon Earl of Huntley. They had descended from the hill with a shout and slogan cry to meet the men under Bryen Tunstall, who were ascending the lower acclivity, and they were immediately engaged in close combat with their enemy. Nothing could withstand the bold impetuosity of this attack. The English were driven from their ground several times, but cheered on by their commanders, returned again and again to the charge. The ground in a very short time was literally strewed with the dead and dying. Men fought with stub- bornness and resolution, the Highlanders with their swords and axes, and the Borderers with their long spears. Three times was Sir Edmond Howard felled to the ground, Tun- stall lay dead among the slain, the men began to waver, and at last they fled, leaving Home and Huntley masters of this part of the field after long and continued fighting. Just at this critical and important period Lord Dacre and the bastard Heron, who was slightly wounded, came to the rescue, with a large body of horse, which had already been engaged in other parts of the field, and effectually stopped the victorious career of the left wing of the Scottish army. The sword and the spear came again in close contact, and men fell fast under the point and thrust of both. Several of Lord Home’s friends were killed at this charge ; but he managed to main- tain his ground, and kept possession of it throughout the day and night, guarding the numerous prisoners taken on the field, amongst whom was Sir Philip Dacre, brother of the commander of the horse. No sooner had Lord Home and Huntley commenced the battle, than the troops under Crawford and Montrose moved down the slope of the hill. The admiral now saw the critical position in which he stood, and knowing full well the advan- tage the Scotch had in seeing the length and breadth of the field, sent hastily to his father, the Earl of Surrey, imploring him to engage the troops before him. The rising ground spoken of as “ Piper’s Hill” lay between the van and the rear-guard, so that nothing, as I have previously mentioned, that was going on with the one division, could possibly be seen by the other. Whereupon Lord Thomas Howard, to show his anxiety for the fate of the day, took from his breast his “ Agnus Det,” and sent it with a messenger to his father, Rey. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 383 as a pledge of his earnest entreaties to begin with the centre, or to come to his assistance. In the meantime the king ob- serving the conflict on his left, and that the troops under Crawford and Montrose, as well as those under Huntley and Home were hotly engaged, gave orders that his body-guard and all around him should march down the side of the hill and mingle in the fight. The reserve under Bothwell fol- lowed close in the rear of the king, and at this moment thou- sands throughout both armies steadily moved in the direction of “ Piper’s Hill,” where the battle continued with dreadful carnage the whole of that fearful and bloody day. Sir Edward Stanley in the eastern division had been fiercely engaged with the right wing of the Scotch under Lennox and Argyle, but the conflict here was not of long duration, although tracked with streams of blood. The English arch- ers, composed principally of men from Cheshire and Lanca- shire, did terrible execution on the close ranks of the High- landers and Islesmen; they fell thick on all sides, and the repeated showers of the unerring long-shaft arrows, broke their solid masses and put them in confusion. Lennox and Argyle, together with many experienced French officers in this division, did all they could by entreaties and menaces to cause the troops to stand firm in their ranks on the ground they then occupied, but without effect, for they instautly rushed down the hill, and engaged their foes (who were rapidly ascending to meet them) in close combat. The English bill-men, at the first onset, staggered under the charge and were obliged to give way. The onslaught was so fierce that it bore down all opposition, but this short success on the part of the clansmen at last gave way, and the undiscip- lined Highlanders were assailed in front and flank; the struggle for victory was dreadful; the English bill-men laid hundreds dead at their feet, and Lennox and Argyle with many of the chiefs of the clans fell bravely fighting at the head of their men. The left wing of the English was completely victorious, their enemies were routed and driven from the field and scat- tered in all directions ; so much so, that they never again rallied. Stanley had now cut his way through all opposi- tion to the top of the hill, from whence he could see the dread- ful struggle that was going on in the centre and right wing; and he full well knew from the masses of men crowded to- gether around the southern base of Piper’s Hill—from the waving of flags and pennons—from the shrieks of the dying, 2 Bs 384 Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. and from the clash of arms, that the battle was raging in all its fury to the west below him.. He hesitated not a moment; orders were given to his men, flushed and elated with success, to march in the direction of the combatants ; and passing over the ground where the royal standard had fluttered before the battle had commenced, he rushed down with his forces in the rear of the king, where all now were contending and struggling for life and for victory. Crawford and Montrose had been early engaged with the numerous forces under the Lord Admiral. The Scotch troops under these two commanders—chiefly composed of men from the interior counties of Scotland, together with several lords and knights, were fiercely attacked by the English forces. The contest raged with dire effect on both sides, but at last the valour and discipline of the men under the admiral pre- vailed, and Crawford and Montrose were counted amongst the slain. The battle had now continued with unabated fury for more than three hours; the left wings belonging to both armies had been victorious; thousands lay dead and dying on the field ; but the fate of the day was far from being decided. The king with his nobles spiritual and temporal had at the very first dismounted from their horses, and marched on foot with their divisions down the hill into the thickest of the fight. By this noble act of devotion he had shown to the men around him, that he was determined to conquer or to die. All were animated with the like enthusiasm, and all were resolved to fall in defence of their king and country. Never were more noble devotedness and heroism displayed either in ancient or modern times, than was that day exhib- ited on the battle field by the king, his nobles, and his men. At last the Scotch were completely surrounded. The Earl of Surrey was in front, and on their right flank ; Lord Thomas Howard on their left ; and Sir Edward Stanley on their rear. Thus hemmed in on all sides, but not in despair, or in the least daunted or discouraged at their perilous and desperate position, they fought and fell, and victory oft-times trembled in the scale. The bill-men plyed their ghastly strokes, cut- ting through the helmet and plated armour, and the long spear did its fatal work. Men were falling fast on both sides ; the shout and slogan cry that urge to the fight, that animate and strengthen the heart and hand on the day of battle, were heroically and defiantly uttered anon and anon by both com- batants; there was no shrinking back, no standing still; Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 385 every hand was lifted up to strike, or bent to give the pierc- ing stroke. Wherever the king moved there was death ; the struggle for victory was most terrific, and so long as James was able to command and shew himself in the ranks of his men, the day was neither lost nor won. The endurance and intrepidity which had signalized him throughout the battle never forsook him, nor seemed to flag, and he had the happy method of inspiring all about him with the same heroic ardour. He and his nobles fought hand to hand with the English bill- men, and many of them were cut down, and fell around the king. All that men could do, was done on that fatal day. Scotland’s glory, and England’s fame were neither tarnished nor sullied by the combatants, for it is recorded in the page of history that the northern spear was even more fatal than the English axe or bill. Fortune which had soared and lingered so long over the heads of both armies, now began to droop; the king himself was wounded by an arrow, and soon after cut down by an English bill-man. He fell covered with honour amongst the slain of his nobles, who throughout the battle had never shrunk from death, but bravely to the last fought about their king, guarding his person, and protecting him from danger. Life was cheerfully given up in his defence by bishops, earls, lords, and knights, and the field was honoured with the dust of the noble dead, and saturated with the best and bravest blood of Scotland. ‘¢ The English shafts in volleys hailed, In headlong charge their horse assailed Front, flank, and rear, the squadrons sweep To break the Scottish circle deep, That fought around their king. But yet, though thick the shafts as snow, Though charging knights like whirlwinds go, Though bill-men ply the ghastly blow, Unbroken was the ring. The stubborn spearmen still made good Their dark impenetrable wood, Each stepping where his comrade stood, The instant that he fell. No thought was there of dastard flight, Link’d in the serried phalanx tight Groom fought like noble, squire like knight As fearlesssly and well.” Never in any engagement do we read of such havoc amongst the leaders of an army, excepting when Hannibal fought 386 ~ Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. with the Roman Consul Varro; it was in fact the Scottish Canne. Scarcely any family of note throughout the length and breadth of the land, who had not to mourn over the death of a father, a husband, a son, or a brother. Most nobly did they fulfil their sacred vows made on the Borough Moor, that they would defend their king with their last drop of blood. The battle continued from 4 to 8 o’clock, or till darkness closed over the field of blood and carnage. Night alone put an end to the strife, for the combatants were only separated when they could not distinguish friend from foe. Numbers of the slain were stripped naked during the night, especially those who could be recognised by their armour as belong- ing to the nobles. The king, as well as his lords, underwent the same degradation ; there was no escaping the plundering propensities of the Borderers, both English and Scotch, and also of the men of Teviotdale and Tynedale. Bishop Ruthal in his letter, when speaking of the Borderers says, in the quaint language of the time: “The grettyst difficltie that I see therien is this, that such men of warre as shal be sent to the Borders, dow not trust the Borderers, whiche be falser than Scott’, and have done more harme at this tyme to o° folk* than the Scott’ dyd, and therefor if it wer Goddys pleas® and the kyng’, I wold all the horsmé on the Borders were in Fraunce w' you, for as I have wretyn byfore, thay neti lyghtyd fré thayr hor’, but when the bataylis joyned, than fell to ryflyng and robbyng as well on o° syde as of the Scotts.” There are various accounts recorded respecting the king’s body, many of them bordering on the marvellous. It was the age of credulity and superstition ; nothing remarkable could take place unless it were involved in mystery. Every event bearing on the king’s death, let it be of what nature it may, had its supporters and propagators, and the more it bore the semblance to a preposterous origin, the more it was revered and cherished throughout Scotland. By many it was believed that he did not fall in battle, that he was seen in the twilight of that eventful day crossing the Tweed in company with four other horsemen; and by many it was firmly credited, that he had gone asa pilgrim to the Holy Land. By others it is affirmed that the king’s body was found the day after the battle on the field dreadfully mutil- ated, and that it was recognised by several who were well ‘acquainted with his :person:.- ‘These various reports bear Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. — 387 strong evidence that none of them could be relied upon with any degree of certainty; nor even at this day does history satisfactorily enlighten us on the subject. There is however no doubt but that he fell on the field, and in all probability was buried amongst the slain. Stripped of his armour, despoiled of all decorations belonging to his rank, covered with wounds, clotted with gore, and besmeared with blood, it would be almost impossible to distinguish him, with any degree of certainty, amongst.so great a number of naked dead. From ten to twelve thousand fell on the field with their king, and we may rely that nearly as many, if not an equal number on the side of the English, for whoever heard of a Scotchman being in battle without leaving indelible proofs that he had been there. It was the tug of Greek with Greek, and we may almost affirm that no quarter was either given or taken; every one fought to the last—even the devoted- ness of Leonidas and his Spartan band at Thermopyle, did not surpass the ardour and heroic valour of the king and those around him. From such a number of slain, we may judge pretty accur- ately the number engaged in the battle. Scotland on the Borough Moor, counted one hundred thousand men; but certainly many of these returned home laden with plunder before the day of battle. Bishop Ruthal in his letter, men- tions that 20,000 returned to their own country, after the taking of Norham Castle. Lindsay of Pitscottie, in his account of Flodden Field, says that Lady Heron in her letter to Surrey, diminishes the Scotch army to ten thousand men, and very shortly after the same historian mentions that the van-guard was given to Huntley and Home, who were in number ten thousand men, and the king took the great battle unto himself, with all the nobility of Scotland, which passed not above twenty thousand men. These conflicting and contradictory statements are of very little value; indeed, after all we must draw our own conclusions from the different circumstances bearing more particularly on the event. Scot- land we know mourned for her dead, from the Palace to the humble cot ; and England’s forces were so shattered, crippled, and diminished in this fearful battle, that she durst not attack, or invade the territory of her foe. Both nations withdrew from the bloody strife terribly cut up and thinned in numbers, and not till the next day was it known which side was the victor. 388 Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. We shall not therefore err far from the truth, when we assign to the different armies at the commencement of the battle something more than forty thousand each, besides horse soldiers, which in all probability would not be far from four or five thousand. The Borderers alone could muster strongly in this arm of the service, for they prided themselves in being inured to war from their boyhood, and always ready for the fray. Look at Lord Home’s party called together in a few hours, to avenge the aggression of the English a short time previous to the battle. The king had only been a few weeks on English ground, and we know when he passed the Tweed his army consisted of one hundred thousand men. Such slaughter and carnage could not possibly be inflicted in so short a time by a less number, and we cannot upon calm reflection but conclude in assigning to each army the figures stated above. The effect of the battle was felt for generations after, and even at this day in Scotland, Flodden Field cannot be mentioned without a sensation of terror and sorrow. Sir Walter Scott remarks, that there is scarcely a Scottish family of eminence who does not number an ancestor killed at Flodden. To town and tower, to down and dale, To tell red Flodden’s dismal tale, And raise the universal wail, Tradition, legend, tune and song, Shall many an age that wail prolong, Still from the sire the son shall hear, Of the stern strife and carnage drear Of Flodden’s fatal field, Where shivered was fair Scotland’s spear And broken was her shield. Scotland wept and mourned her king and nobility; her bards sang her loss in plaintive strains, and England in de- scriptive verse. He was the most beloved monarch that ever filled the Scottish throne. ‘‘ As he was greatly beloved while alive,” says Buchanan, “so when dead his memory was cherished with an affection beyond what I have ever read or heard of being entertained for any other king.” More poetry has been written about Flodden Field than any other battle since the days of Homer. . Scott has immortalized Flodden in his inimitable poem of Marmion, every part of which bear- ing on the battle can be read over and over again, without in the least degree diminishing the grandeur and excitement that enthrals the heart when first read ; and which will con- tinue to captivate and delight the soul of every one who understands the English language. Rev. R. Jones on the Battle of Flodden Field. 389 The morning after the battle the men under Lord Home were seen standing on the western end of the field, where they had the evening before been so hotly engaged, and where they had been completely victorious. The centre of the Scotch had never been broken, and it was quite uncertain during the night which nation could claim the victory, but as the day advanced the Scotch left the ground and all their guns on the top of the hill. The death of the king, together with the loss of nearly all her nobility, would be known during the night or early the next morning throughout the remnant of the Scottish army. Besides the king and his natural son the Archbishop of St. Andrews, there were slain twelve earls, and fifteen lords and chiefs of clans ; and to these we must also add the Bishop of Caithness and of the Isles, the Abbots of Inchaffray and Kil- winning, and the Dean of Glasgow. When known in the English camp that the victory was theirs, Surrey immediately ordered solemn thanksgiving to be offered up to the Almighty, and afterwards he created forty knights on the field, disbanded his army, and returned to London, where all was joy and exultation. Scarcely any one of note belonging to the English nobility fell on the field, which is a strong and undeniable proof that they did not risk their lives in the battle as the king and his nobles had done. The bow and the bill in the hands of the English yeomen did the deadly work, and by them were ‘‘ The flowers of the forest a’ wede away.” PLATE X. Map of Flodden Field and of Surrey’s March. PLATE XI. 1. Arrangements of the Troops before the battle. 2. A View of the Battle-ground of Flodden Field. 390 An Account of the opening of Two Barrows situated in the parish of Ford, and County of Northumberland, on June 22nd and July 1st, 1858. By the Rev. WiLLI1AM GREEN- WELL, THE two barrows are placed on the south slope of the range of low sandstone hills which skirt the valley of the Till on the south, and are situated about one mile south-east from the village of Ford. The immediate neighbourhood is filled with the works of the natives of pre-historic times. Close by is the fortified place at the Rowtin Lynn, with the rock inscribed with those mysterious circles, which though now found spread over a wide area in Britain and Ireland, have as yet baffled all interpretation of their meaning ; nearer still to the barrows, are two rocks with similar markings to those on the Rowtin Lynn rock; whilst from time to time the plough, or the hand of the waller, has brought to light urns, bones, and flints, the relics of the sepultures of a bygone race. The two barrows which were opened, are not the only two which remain, uninjured by cultivation, on the slope and summit of the hills in this locality; they were selected from among those that still exist, on account of their larger size, and from their presenting no indication of ever having been disturbed by the hand of man. They both were formed, as regards the upper part of the barrow, of the rough sandstone of the district, which is found in convenient proximity, covering the surface of the ground. When first raised the barrow was probably a cairn of stones, for the mixture of earth found among the stones is apparently due to the decay of the vegetable growth of centuries, rather than to any original deposit of earth. The lower part of the barrows, in which alone were found any remains of urns or bones, consisted of earth, bearing, from its blackened appear- ance, ‘evident marks of fire. The largest and most prominent barrow was sixteen feet in Pee, and rose about three feet above the ordinary level of the ground. It was enclosed by a circle of stones, set on edge and close to each other; the inner diameter of this circle measured twelve feet ; the space of four feet, which remains to make up the outer diameter, was made up of the stones of the circle, and of smaller stones and earth heaped upon and around them. The principal interment was in the centre of the barrow, and on a level with the surface of the Rey. W. Greenwell on Barrows at Ford. 391 ground, it was contained in a cist, formed by four stones set on edge, in the form of an oblong square, with a large irregular shaped covering stone, which projected beyond the line of the sides ; the joints of the four side stones were filled in with clay. The cist lay north and south, and measured two feet eleven inches in length, by two feet in breadth, and had a depth of one foot seven inches. The bleached appearance of the in- side of the cist, when first, after so long an interval, the light was admitted, was very striking, and pointed to the lapse of many a century since last it had seen theday. The sole con- tents were an urn and a fragment of the skull of a child, of about three or four years of age, both of which were found at the north end of the cist, the urn empty and standing on its base, the fragment of skull lying beside it. The urn—Plate XII., fig. 1—is four inches high, and four and a quarter inches wide at the mouth ; it is of the ordinary flower-pot shape, of a greyish brown colour, well formed, apparently on the wheel, and entirely covered with short incised lines arranged herring- bone fashion. There was no indication that any other bones had ever occupied the cist, the fragment which was found was perfectly fresh, as though it had only been buried some few years, and strange as it may seem, it appears as if this por- tion only of the body had been placed in the tomb, for why should it remain quite fresh, and the other bones have totally gone to decay? Ina notice of the opening of a cist at Broom- hill, near Dunse, an account of which is given in vol. iii. of our Transactions, p. 157, it is related that the sole contents were an urn, a portion of a skull and a few fragments of bones, so preserved as to make it difficult to account for the absence of the remainder; and in many cases where undis- turbed cists have been opened, no remains of bones have been found. Whether in the Broomhill barrow there had ever been more of the body interred than the bones dis- covered, must remain a disputed point until we have the evidence of more interments to guide us to the truth. There is, however, one singular fact which we learn from this place of burial, which is this, that the principal interment was that of a very young child. Some have held that only the chiefs of tribes, or other notable persons, were honoured with the raised mound over their remains, whilst the lower members of the tribe were buried without any mark to distinguish where they rested ; nor indeed does this view seem an im- probable one, when we consider how few are the barrows, even in a district so thickly peopled as must have been north 2C 392 Rev. W. Greenwell on Barrows at Ford. Northumberland in British days. Here however we have a barrow covering an infant’s grave, and, without wandering into the realms of fancy, we may, I think, safely predicate of this memorial, that it marks the spot where the much loved and early lost child of some honoured chief and warrior was interred.* The covering stone of the cist bore on its upper surface the marks of fire, the indications of cremation contemporary with the central interment. Outside the cist were the remains of six or seven bodies, all burnt and enclosed in urns, but the whole, with one exception, so much decayed, that only very slight indications of bones or urns were apparent; three of the urns were covered, each with a small flat stone. One urn— Plate X11., fig. 2—was removed in a perfect state ; it is rudely hand-formed,+ with a few irregular and ill-arranged lines, of the usual character, on the upper part; it measures ten and a half inches in height, by nine inches in width at the mouth. It was inverted, and filled with the imperfectly burnt bones of a young person of 16 or 18 years of age; among the bones were some pieces of burnt wood, together with a rude flint arrow head— Plate XII., fig. 3—and a bone pin, which had both been burnt with the body. The mouth of the urn was filled with clay to preserve the bones from falling out. A single piece of calcined flint was found among the decayed urns and bones, and there was no indication of metal throughout the barrow. Outside the enclosing circle of stones was a single interment, a small urn filled with burnt bones, but equally decayed with those within the circle. It was evident, from the burnt appearance of the earth, and covering stone, and from small fragments of burnt wood occurring here and there, that some, if not all, of the bodies had been consumed on the site of the barrow, and at a sub- sequent period, though one perhaps only of hours, to the formation of the cist. : The second barrow, almost identical in shape and size with the first one, was situated about one hundred yards north of it, and was formed of similar materials and in a similar man- ner, with the exception that there was no enclosing circle of * During the course of this year (1862) a cist was discovered at North Sun- derland, which contained, besides three elaborately ornamented urns, the skele~ ton of a female of about twelve years of age. + These sepulchral urns appear, in many cases, to have been made for the occasion, and the hot ashes seem to have been placed in them whilst they were still pliant and soft ; in fact the only baking they got was probably due to the heat generated by the calcined bones which they contained. ; Rev. W. Greenwell on Barrows at Ford. 393 stones. On removing the stones of which the mound was formed, there was found upon the original and undisturbed surface of the ground, a thin stratum of burnt bones, wood, and earth. ‘This band of burnt matter was about two inches thick ; scattered irregularly throughout it were many small fragments of urns, and pieces of flint, uncalcined. The burnt matter was not found throughout the whole surface but only in patches. There was no indication that there had ever been a whole urn interred, the fragments were very various in texture and colour, and seemed to be portions of many vessels, having the appearance, both in colour and hardness, of hav- ing been burnt as fragments,* along with the bones and wood. The barrow had never been disturbed, the stratum of burnt matter being quite regular and unbroken. A careful examin- ation of the surface of the ground, and of the stratum of burnt matter, shewed that one or more bodies had been burnt, with pieces of pottery, and that then the remains, with flint flakes added, had been deposited in thin patches on the ground, and the mound of stones raised over them. There had never been a cist, or apparently any unburnt body, in the barrow. Such records as the above may seem trivial to many per- sons, and it may appear as though we have had, in various archeological publications, notices of the opening of barrows so often as to become wearisome, but it is only by the record of many interments that we can arrive at any just conclusion as to the mode and circumstances of the burial of the early inhabitants of Britain, and so through their burial rites, always sacred and religious, at a knowledge of their religion, habits, and social relations. * Such fragments are not of unfrequent occurrence in sepulchral interments. Mr. Carrington found in a barrow, at Little Lea, Castern, shreds of an urn, a bone pin, and several] flints, which had all been exposed to the fire which had consumed the body. See Bateman’s Ten Years Diggings, p. 190. Similar de- posits have been found in very many instances in barrows, which have been examined in various partsof Germany. It is probable that this custom of plac- ing broken pot-sherds, and flint flakes, in the tomb, may have a religious sig- nificancy which as yet we cannot explain. From the frequency of their occur- rence we cannot suppose them to have been accidentally deposited, and their being found associated with the dead, is strong evidence of their being linked to some religious chord in the faith of these ancient people. A passage in Hamlet, Act. v. Scene 1, may have originated in a lingering remembrance of this custom, where the priest, answering Laertes, relative to the burial of Ophelia, says,— Her death was doubtful ; And, but that great command o’ersways the order, She should in ground unsanctified have lodged Till the last trumpet ; for charitable prayers, Shards, flints, and pebbles, should be thrown on her. 394 Observations to be made in railway cuttings. The facts, which the first barrow here described discloses, suggest many questions, hard perhaps to solve, but worthy of solution, and are indeed of the highest interest. Why were some bodies buried unburnt, whilst others were consumed by fire? Were the burnt bodies those of slaves or wives, killed to be ready for the chief in the land of the departed? What was the purpose of the small urn placed by the side of the corpse? Did it contain food for the use of the departed, in the interval whilst he lay in the tomb? The flint arrow-head or the bronze spear laid beside the hunter and warrior, or en- closed in the urn among the calcined bones, speak of war and the chase in other worlds, or, as some think, they tell of a purpose accomplished with their owner’s death; but what mean the flint flakes,* mere shapeless chippings, of which so many are found, accompanying the old interments? These and many similar enquiries suggest themselves on the opening of a barrow, and it is only by the record of many such openings that we can hope for an answer to them all. Summary of points suggested by the BERWICKSHIRE NatTv- RALIsts’ CLUB as deserving of observation during the pro- gress of the Berwickshire Railway, 1862. Many discoveries of Geological and Antiquarian interest having been made in opening out lines of new railways, the following Summary has been drawn out with the view of indi- cating to the Contractors for the Berwickshire Railway, and other parties interested in such matters, the points to which their attention should more particularly be directed. I. GEOLOGY. (1.) Old Rocks. 1. The lines of junction between different rock formations are of interest-;—as between the igneous rocks (¢. e. whin- stone, greenstone, porphyry, &c.) and sedimentary rocks (c. e. sandstones, slates, &c.) ;—or as between sedimentary rocks of different) ages,—to see how the more recent rocks have been deposited over the edges of the older rocks, after the latter had been elevated and contorted. 2. Any metals or unusual minerals and crystals in the rocks are of interest ; and specimens of them should be laid aside. 3. Any appearances of fossil remains, (2. e. the bones or teeth of animals, scales of fish, shells or impressions of shells * In 1861, about half a mile west of these barrows, were found, under a large flat stone, the upper surface of which was exposed to the day, more than three-score flint flakes, laid in a heap, but without any appearance of bones, or of there ever having been an interment there. Observations to be made in railway cuttings. 395 or corals, or the stems and leaves of plants,) are of interest, and should be as little injured as possible,—so as to allow drawings to be made on the spot. (2.) Superficial Deposits. 1. Much interest attaches to the way in which the old rocks are covered by beds of clay, gravel, and sand. Observe particularly whether these old rocks appear to have been ground down and smoothed, by the passage over them of some heavy and rough materials. Observe also whether the rocks when thus smoothed, are scratched or rutted on their surface,—as if hard and sharp stones had passed over them. Endeavour to ascertain, from what direction the smoothing and scratching agent has come,—by noticing on which side the rocks are most and least smoothed respectively. 2. It is important to observe what are the materials com- posing the different beds covering the old rocks, (7. e. whether clay, sand, gravel, or great boulders.) 3. If any fossils should be found in these beds, such as bones or teeth of animals, shells, or plants,—these should be carefully preserved, and their position marked. 4, Take notice whether the clay beds consist exclusively of clay, or whether they contain stones either large or small. 5. Take notice whether the boulders are scratched ;—and if so, mark in what direction the scratches point. 6. If the boulders or other stones are not spherical or square, but are much longer than they are broad,—observe whether, generally speaking, they lie parallel—z. e. whether their longer axes point in the same direction, and coincide with the lines of scratches. II, ANTIQUITIES. 1. Any coins, and weapons or other implements, whether made of stone, wood, or metal, should be carefully preserved, and a note taken of the place and stratum in which they were found. 2. Any sculptured stones or stones bearing inscriptions should be taken care of. 3. If any graves or skeletons are discovered, they should remain undisturbed until they are properly examined, and the greatest care should be taken to preserve skulls or urns from being broken or injured. In the event of any discoveries being made under any of the above heads, notice thereof to be sent to Mr. SrEVENSON, Accountant, Dunse. 396 The Lichen Flora of the Eastern Borders. By James ) FHiarpy. ‘‘Difficile quidem, ac periculosum est hujus generis plantas exacte distribuere; tum quod raro admodum inveniuntur omnino perfect, flore scilicet, semineque ornate; tum quod ex iis alique sint adeo parve, ut neque microscopio inspect structure earum ne dum flores deprehendi queant.”—MIcHELI, Noy. Plantarum Genera, p. 73, 74. 1. Lichina, 4g. 1. L. pyemma, Lightf. On rocks about high-water mark, common. 2. L. conriInis, Ach. On rocks at and above high-water mark, common. 2. Hphebe, Fries. 1. E. punrscens, Ach. In chinks of rocks in damp shady places. N. “On Cheviot.” Bot. G. North. ii. p. 63. B. In a very dwarf state at Lowrey’s Knowes, near Dowlaw, and rocks on the Whitadder, below Edin’s Hold. 3. Collema, Hoffm. 1. C. FuRvuM, Ach. B. Rare; a few dwarf rosettes attached to greywacke rocks by the side of the burn in the lower part of Dowlaw dean. In Silesia Koerber found it on greywacke as well as on calcareous rocks. It resembles a diminutive state of Synechoblastus flaccidus. 2. C. PuLposum, Bernh. Clayey soil, especially on the sea-banks; also among rocks, and on old buildings. N. Bamborough Castle, Ratcheugh, Hum- bleton dean, Routin Linn. D.Hudshead. B. Berwick, and along the whole Berwickshire coast; Railway banks; Langton Wood; Greenlaw, &c. y. LiMosuM, dch. B. Sea-coast at Eastern Hole, near Cockburnspath Cove. 6. cRisTatum, Borr. Common, on the sea-banks. The specimen marked Collema nigrum, in Dr. Johnston's Herbarium, belongs to C. pulposum. C. nigrum, Ber. Flor. ii, p. 78. 3. C. crispuM, Borr. B. Rare. Among soil mixed with lime on a stone wall near Greenheugh. The specimens are fully as characteristic as a Sussex example from Mr. Unwin. 4. C. FLUVIATILE, Huds. B. Rare. On rocks constantly moistened by water, and at times quite immersed, in the bed of the Whitadder, above and below the Retreat, bearing apothecia. 4, Synechoblastus, Zrevzs. 1. S. FLAcciDUS, Ach. On rocks in streams and by the sides of waterfalls. N. ‘‘ On rocks in Wooler water, above Langleyford.”” Winch, Ihave found it there and on the Lill-burn. B. Whitadder; Pease bridge; Cockburnspath Tower dean; Dowlaw dean, &c. 2. S. NigREscEeNS, Z. On trees, Langton Lees Cleugh. Rev. Thomas Brown. The specimens are in Dr. Johnston’s Herbarium. ). Mallotium, Fw. 1, M. saTuRNINUM, Dicks. N. ‘On stones above Langleyford at the foot of Cheviot.”” Winch. This I have not yet found. Mr. Hardy on Lichens of the Eastern Borders. 397 6. Leptogium, Fries. 1. L. LAcERUM, Swartz. On stones in burns among mosses, and on old walls in shady places. N. Coldgate or Wooler water above Langleyford; House of Crag; Humbleton dean; Routin Linn. B. Deans in Penmanshiel Wood ; Dowlaw dean; Pease and Cockburnspath Tower deans, &c. In fruit. 2. L. sinuatum, Huds. Among mosses growing on stones in burns. N., Humbleton dean. B. Whitadder at the Retreat ; Coll Mill burn at Coldingham, apothecia numerous. 7. Polychidium, Ach. 1. P. MuscicoLuM. Swartz. Among rocks by water sides in upland places. Rare. N. ‘‘ Cheviot.”? Winch. B. Rocks on the Whitadder below the Retreat, with apothecia. 8. Cladonia, Hoffm. 1, C. auctcornis, Ligh/f. Sandy soil among rocks, rare. N. ‘‘ Rocky point near Bamborough.” J. V. Thompson's Berwick Plants, p. 110. 3B. On the sea- banks below Lumsden, and in a very limited patch among rocks on the Whit- adder below the Retreat. 2. C. pyxipaTa, Z. Common on barren moors and banks, and on wall-tops, subject to great variety. 8. FIMBRIATA, LZ. In similar localities, 3. C. GRACILIS, ZL, y. HYBRIDA, Fries. On barren peaty moors, frequent. 5. DEGENERANS, Flk. C. anomMmA, Sm. N. Wall-top behind the Sneer- hill. B. Moors near Penmanshiel, Dowlaw, and Quixwood, exactly correspond- ing with the figure of Dillenius. Winch, Flora of North. p. 157, represents the sub-var. E. CARIosA, as “not rare,”’ ‘‘ on Cheviot and other barren moors.”’ 4. C. sauamosa, Hoffm. 0. DELICATA, Ehrh. ‘‘ Cheviot.’”? Winch. Ihave seen no traces of this species in the district. 5. OC. FuRcATA, Huds. Barren peaty moors, common. The var. DECUMBENS, Mudd., occurs in wet places, on Cheviot, Dowlaw, and Penmanshiel moors. 6. C. RANGIFERINA, Z. On moist moors and in woods, occupying large spaces. Spenser, in the Faery Queen, mentions “‘ the bare ground with hoary moss bestrowed.” 7. C. unctALIs, Z. On moist upland moors. All the varieties. 8. C. PAPILLARIA, Ehrh. Barren moors, not very common. N. ‘“ Cheviot and Hedgehope.”? Winch. B. Earnslaw or Piperton hill, high land near Pen- manshiel and Dowlaw mosses, 9. C. cocciFERA, Z. a, coRNUCOPIOIDES, Z. On barren moors, and among rocks, common, 8. BrturpirLtora, Ach. N. ‘ Cheviot.’?? Dr. James Thompson. Wall-top behind the Sneer-hill, one of the Cheviots. B. Near St. David’s Cairn, and on Coldingham Moor. 3. DEForMIs, ZL. N.Top of a March fence to the north of the Sneer-hill. B. Cockburnlaw, Moss Maw near St. David’s Cairn, &c. & DIGITATA, Hoffm. On decayed stumps, and on the trunks of old trees, &c. Common in shady woods. n, MACILENTA, Ehrh, N. Foot of Cheviot. B. Bowshiel dean, &c, Sub-var. 398 Mr. Hardy on Lichens of the Eastern Borders. B. conympBirormis. N. March fence behind the Sneer-hill. Sub-vars. C. FILI- ForMIS, Relhan, and D. ontusa, Schaer. N. Whitsunbank hill, Ford-hill. B. Cockburnlaw, Coldingham Moor. The diversities in the species of this genus are multiform. Linneus, Flor. Lapp. p. 246, humourously recommends the student of its varieties to go to Lapland. 9. Baomyces, Pers. 1. B. ByssorpeEs, Z. On earth on old roads in woods, on old sod-laid wall- tops, on moors, and sometimes on stones, common. Koerber says the dusty dissolved sterile thallus forms ‘ Lepraria incana.” (Syst. Lich. Germ. p. 374.) 2. B. Rosrus, Pers. On wethigh peaty soils. N.On Cheviot in ascending from the Henhole. B. Moor at Penmanshiel; near Quixwood ; Monynut hill or Laughing Law, &c. 10. Icmadophila, Zirh. 1. I. mRuainosa, Scop. Moist peaty moors. N. Cheviot on the ascent where the Cloudberry commences, and on the summit; Hedgehope; back of Newton Tor. B. Coldingham Moor, moor near Quixwood, &c. 11. Stereocaulon, Schreb. 1. S. pAscuaLe, ZL. var. y. ALpInumM, Laur. Among rocks and moss, near the summit of Cheviot and Hedgehope, and Newton Tor. With apothecia on Hedgehope. 2. S. conDENSATUM, Hoffm. On old roads on moors, worn down to the gravel, Near Quixwood, the Blakelaws, and Oldcambus moss; Black Craig, Pease dean. ‘‘ The thallus (i. e. the stipes,) often fails, in which case the apo- thecia, unless they are absent, are adnate on the thick crustaceous protothallus, which is often transpierced by parasitic Ephebe threads. Such forms promise, as Schaerer had previously indicated, an obvious resemblance to Lecidea sabule- torum.”’ Koerber, Syst. Lich, Germ., p. 13. Black parasites appear on the crust of our specimens, and look like apothecia till the lens is applied, but when moistened they are seen to be a Tremella and not an Ephebe. 3. S. NANUM, Ach. Rare. N. On clay in the fissures of rocks above Cold- gate Mill, B. Head of Dowlaw dean. 12. Usnea, Diil. 1. U. BarBaTA, LZ. a.FLoripa, LZ. On trunks and branches of old trees, par- ticularly pine-trees and birches ; fructifying finely on the latter in Penmanshiel Wood. 6. uirntTa, LZ. ‘Banks below Marshall Meadows.”’ J. V. Thompson, Ber- Plants, p. 111. ‘‘Onrocks”’ there. Herb. Johnston. On the moor near Dowlaw this species appears to spring immediately from the peaty soil, but on examination it will be found to be parasitic on minute fragments or stems of heather. 18. Alectoria, ch. 1. A. suBaTa, Z. On trunks and branches of old trees, common. 8, CHALYBEIFORMIS, Z. On rocks and wall-tops. N. Cheviot, Hedgehope, Mr. Hardy on Lichens of the Eastern Borders. 899 House of Craig or Horsey Crag, Homilheugh, &c. B. Rocks near Dowlaw, walls at Penmanshiel, &c. 2. A. BIcoLoR, Ehrh, On moss and dead grass, at Lowrey’s Knowes near Dowlaw, in dense entangled short bushy tufts, not half an inch in height, of a grey green tint above, but black at the base. Though dwarfed in its propor- tions, it has the habit of the more luxuriant state. A. Chalybeiformis grows beside it, and in one instance through it, but retains its own characteristics. The height of the locality will be about 700 feet above the sea, On Ben Lawers 1000 feet is near its place of growth. It is remarkable to find it isolated here, and occupying not a square yard of surface, 14. Hvernia, Ach. 1. E, FurruraAcea, &. On rocks. N. ‘On Cheviot and Hedgehope.”’ Winch ; but I never saw it on either of them. ‘On the walls of Chillingham Park at Rawse Castle; plentiful.” Dr. Johnston. Abundant on sandstone at Cockenheugh, and Great Heddon, and also on Ford Hill. 2. E. PRUNASTRI, Z. On trees, common, also on stones. ‘‘ On willows soft and on sloes white.”’ Dillenius. In fructification on old firs and birches, and on stems of heather, near Penmanshiel. The fructifying specimens are rup- tured and shabby-looking,— “ Tatter’d and stain’d—all weather worn.” The spormogonia are black, but brown fungus specks often occupy the branches along with them. 15. Ramalina, Ach. 1. R. canrcartis, Z. «. FRAXINEA, Z. Common on the trunks and branches of various trees. Squirrels have been observed to eat this lichen, Gard. Chron, 1844, p, 28. 8, FASTIGIATA, Pers. On trees and sometimes on rocks, common. y. CANALICULATA, Fries. Along with the last. d. THRAUSTA, Ach. On oaks Penmanshiel Wood, and on willow bushes in moors. &, FARINACEA, Z. On trees and rocks, common. 2. R. scopuLorum, Retz, Dr. Johnston points out two sub-varieties, the first pendulous, occurs on “ precipitous rocks below Marshall Meadows;’’ in Dowlaw dean, Spindleston-heugh, Easington rocks. The cespitose state is common among sea-rocks, in Berwickshire, North Durham, and Northumber- land. 8. POLYMoRPHA, dch. WN. Among rocks, House of Crag, near Langleyford. It is nearly as luxuriant as the pendulous state of scopulorwm. 16. Cornicularia, Ach. 1. C. rristis, Weber. N. Rocks near the summit of Cheviot and Hedge- hope; top of Newton Tor, and Fredon Hill. 2. C. acuLeaTA, Ehrh. On peaty soils, N, Cheviot, Whitsunbank hill, Homilheugh, top of Newton Tor. B.Coldingham Moor, Lammermoors, 17, Cetraria, Ach. 1. C. Isuanpica, Z. On barren peaty soil, not very common. N, Cheviot 2 Cc 400 Mr. Hardy on Lichens of the Eastern Borders. and Hedgehope. ‘‘ About the Quarry on Sunnyside; Murton Craigs, D; moors west of Belford.’? Thompson’s Plants of Berwick, p.109. ‘* Lamberton Moor, plentiful; ’? ‘‘On the Lammermuirs not unfrequent.”” Dr. Johnston. Coldingham Moor near Oldcambus Moss. 2. C. GLauca, LZ. On mossy trees, stems of heather, and rocks. N.Com- mon on the hills about Wooler, and the lower Cheviots, top of Newton Tor, &c. B. *‘ Below Marshall Meadows.” J. V. Thompson. ‘‘ Lamberton Moor.’’ Dr. Johnston. Cockburnlaw, Coldingham Moor, &c. 8. FALLAX, Weber, In similar places with the preceding. 3. C. SEPINCOLA, Ehrh. Scarce. N. On rocks, House of Craig or Horsey Crag, where there is a good deal of it ; wall of Whitsunbank Hill, one speci- men ; Ford Woodhouse Hill, and Ford Hill. B. Old Scotch pines in Penman- shiel Wood, and the Lower “‘ Folly,’’ and a scattered plant or two on stones near Dowlaw Moss. In none of the systematic works is it said to grow on stones, but Dr. Patrick Neill found it on the summit of the Wart Hill of Hoy, 1600 feet high (Scots Mag., 1804, p. 183); and Mr. Ralfs in Wales, ‘‘ on the largest of the stones called the Giant’s Pebbles by a small pool on the road from Dolgelly to Tal-y-llyn.’’ (Ann. and Mag. N. H. xiii. p. 263.) Mr. Dickson also found it on stones. Hook, Brit. F1. ii. p. 220. 18. Spherophoron, Pers. 1. S. cornALLOIDES, Pers. Onrocks among moss, and on trees along with the var. FRAGILE, L. N. Cheviot and Hedgehope, top of Newton Tor, House of Crag, Ford Hill, &c. B. ‘‘ Below Marshall Meadows.” J. V. Thompson. Cock- burnlaw near the Retreat, Twinlaw Cairn, Bowshiel dean, Lowrey’s Knowes near Dowlaw, &c. D. ‘‘ Murton Craigs.” Dr. Johnston. 2. S. compRESSUM, Ach. ‘‘ Cheviot and Hedgehope,’? Winch, but I have sought in vain for specimens. It is probably rare. The example marked S. FRAGILE, in Dr. Johnston’s Herbarium, belongs to this. The locality is not given, but the reference is to the Ber. Flor. ii. 97. ‘‘ The thallus is pale, of a peculiar frosted, rigid, coralline aspect, compressed, the ultimate branches lobed or articulated, terminating in a rounded or oblong swollen apex.” Leighton’s British Angiocarpous Lichens, p. 9. 19. Nephroma, ch. 1. N. rp@vicatum, Ach. Among moss on rocks in shady deans, and by water- sides, and also on the sea-banks. N. By Coldgate water from Langleyford to Harthope Linn, Henhole, House of Crag, base of. Homilheugh, &c. B. ‘‘ Pen- manshiel Wood ; wood above the Retreat.’”” Dr, Johnston. Dowlaw dean, sea- banks between Dowlaw and Redheugh, &c, 20. Peltigera, Willd. 1. P. aptHosa, Z. Among moss on rocks in damp shady localities, rare, N. “Foot of Cheviot near Langleyford.” J.V. Thompson, 1807. It grows at Harthope Linn above the Hope, which is probably also Winch’s locality. Near a linn among rocks bordering Care-burn; also at the mouth of Henhole dean, B. “ On rocks west from Longformacus Manse, sparingly.” Rev. Thomas Brown. ‘“‘ Near Abbey St. Bathan’s.”’ Dr. Johnston. Mr. Hardy on Lichens of the Eastern Borders. 401 2. P. cantina, Z. Among grass, and on the ground, in heaths and woods, common. 8. RUFESCENS, Hoffm. In similar localities with the preceding, and per- haps more abundant. y. LIMBATA, Delise. B. On stones in the burn, Dowlaw dean, Kitchencleugh, and Red Clues Cleugh; among rocks and at the base of trees, on the west bank of the Whitadder, below Edin’s Hold; on the trunk of an ash on the south side of Bowshiel dean. &. PUSILLA, Dill, ‘On the banks at Hudshead.”’? Dr. Johnston. Peltidea spuria, Ber. Flor. ii. 74! This and the next species have the upper surface eaten by a black hairy beetle larva. It is also variously mined by another insect larva, whose nature I have not ascertained. 3. P. poLypacTyLa, Necker. On the ground among moss, &c., in woods, and on heaths. B, On old roads, &c., in Penmanshiel Wood, moors near Pen- manshiel, Dowlaw Moss, and Quixwood. N. House of Crag, and near the side of Care-burn, an affluent of Coldgate water. 4, P. HoRIZONTALIS, LZ. On rocks by the sides of upland streams. N. Coldgate water above and below Langleyford; Broadstruther burn where it unites with Common-burn, to form Care-burn. B, On the Whitadder at the Retreat, and below Edin’s Hold; on Monynut water below Strafontane (Tres- fontaines). 5. P. venosa, Z. Rare, B. On earth at the side of Monynut water, above Godscroft. 21. Sticta, Schred. 1. S. putmonariA, LZ. On moss-grown trunks of trees. N. “Foot of Cheviot, above Langleyford,” Winch. B. ‘‘On the ash at Longformacus.” Dr. Johnston. ‘* Langton Lees Cleugh, in fruit, plentiful.” Rev. Thos. Brown. In deans in Penmanshiel Wood, on oak, ash, and hazel. 2. S. scroBIcuLATA, Scop. Qn rocks, and trunks of trees, more common. N. ‘ Rawse Castle.’? Dr. Johnston. ‘Foot of Cheviot above Langleyford.” Winch. Among rocks on the Sneer-hill near the road to Langleyford; and at the base of Homilheugh. B. “ Penmanshiel Wood; wooded banks of the Dye above Longformacus, and in woods above Renton Inn.” Dr. Johnston. On hazel below the Pease Bridge ; rocks at St. Helen’s Church ; on the sea-banks near Dowlaw, and below the Retreat. 3. S. syLvaTica, L. By the side of Coldgate water, among rocks below and near Harthope Linn, This appears to be Mr. Winch’s locality, Flora o¢ Northumberland and Durham, p. 90. 4. §. FULIGINoSA, Dicks. Among mossy rocks; N. A few dwarf specimens along with the preceding at Harthope Linn. B. ‘“‘ Langton Lees Cleugh.” Rev. Thos. Brown. It used to grow on the northern exposure of the dean above the for- ester’s house, Penmanshiel Wood, but has disappeared since the wood grew up. 5. S. LIMBATA, Smith. Among moss on rocks, and on trees. N. ‘“‘ Foot of Cheviot above Langleyford.’” Winch. B. Rocks near the Black Craig, Pease dean; and on a tree in the dean behind the forester’s house, Penmanshiel Wood, scarce ; more plentiful among rocks near the linn at Dowlaw dean. 402 Mr. Hardy on Lichens of the Eastern Borders. 6. S. HeRBACEA, Huds. B. Among moss on moist rocks in the North Cleugh, Penmanshiel Wood. This state belongs to the var. microphyllina of Scherer. It has the peculiar smell of the Sticéas, but fainter. S. glomulifera does not occur with us, but Mr. Jerdon has sent it from Minto Crags, Roxburghshire. 22. Parmelia, Ach. 1. P. PERLATA, Ach. a. B. On the mossy trunk of an old elder, Kitchencleugh. B. cin1aTA, D.C, B. On shady mossy rocks in the dean at Oldcambus; and on old oak trees in Kitchencleugh and on Ewieside. 2. P. sAxATILIs, L. On stones, trunks of trees, and wall-tops, common. 5. OMPHALODES, Z. On stones on the higher moors. 3. P. pHysopEes, Z. On trees, stones, and stems of heath, common. In Sweden it is somuch attached to the bark of the birch that Linnzus says scarcely any tree is free of it. Flor. Suec. p. 346, ed. 1. 4. P. otivacEA, Z. On trees, stones, and tops of stone-walls, common. y. FURFURACEA, Schaer. B. On dwarf birch bushes, and on hawthorns, Pen- manshiel Moor, Massalongo and Koerber consider this as a good species, Im- bricaria aspera, Mass. Koerb. Syst. Lich, Germ. p. 78. fo) 39 Proportion of the length, represented by 100, to the width 80°, and to the height 73°3 :— Length. Width. Height. 100 80° 73°3 431 The Antiquities of Yevering Bell and Three Stone Burn, among the Cheviots in Northumberland, with an account of Excavations made into Celtic Forts, Hut dwellings, Bar- rows and Stone Circle. By Grorce Tate, F.G.S., Corresponding Member of the Society of Antiquaries in Scotland, &c. Few places in Northumberland have attracted more atten- tion than Yevering Bell, one of the hills forming the northern termination of the porphyritic range of the Cheviots. Its old written history, beginning with the Venerable Bede, and its older unwritten history, as seen in its great stone walls, its hut circles, and mounds have given rise to much specula- tion among antiquaries. Every tourist too and pleasure- seeker, who rambles along the Borders, must climb to its summit, pore over its mysterious monuments and enjoy the extensive and rich view it commands. There is a beauty in its shape—a cone truncated at the top, and separated by valleys and deep ravines, from the other hills with which it is connected. Though in altitude only about 1500 feet, yet rising steeply from the low lying plain of Millfield, its height appears greater. Cheviot is higher by more than 1000 feet, yet the view from Yevering is more varied and distinct, and comprehends more elements of beauty and interest, than that seen from the monarch of the range. The waters of the Glen, hallowed in imagina- tion, because used to initiate the early Saxon converts into the Christian Church, almost wash the base of the hill, and wind their way through the richly cultured plain of Muill- field to join the sluggish Till, whose serpentine course can be traced throughout this plain to the silver Tweed. The eye wanders over the Doddington range of hills on the north, and sees the rocky Farne and sacred Lindisfarne ; while in other directions, in the far distance, we descry the three-peaked Eildon, Dunse law, and the Lammermuir hills. Towns, villages, castles, pele towers, churches, and battle fields give a human interest to the scene. On the flanks of Homildon hard by, Henry Lord Percy, in 1402, defeated 10,000 Scots under Lord Douglas; and at “‘ Geteryne ” the Scots were again overthrown in 1415 by Sir Robert Umfra- ville ; and but two miles further west lies Flodden Field, on which in 1518, King James IV. of Scotland and the flower of his nobility perished. The earliest notice of Yevering is given by Bede. After 2 KE 432 Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. narrating the conversion and baptism of Edwin king of Northumbria and of his people in the province of Deiri, he relates those things which happened in the province of Ber- nicia. ‘* So great,” says he, “ was then the fervour of the faith as is reported, and the desire of the washing of salva- tion among the nation of Northumbrians, that Paulinus, at a certain time coming with the king and queen (Edward and Ethelberga,) to the royal country seat, which is called Adge- frin, stayed there with them thirty-six days, fully occupied in catechising and baptising ; during which days from morning to night, he did nothing else but instruct the people resort- ing from all villages and places in Christ’s saving Word ; and when instructed, he washed them with the water of abso- lution in the river Glen, which is close by. This town under the following kings was abandoned, and another was built instead of it, at the place called Melmin, (now Millfield). These things happened in the province of the Bernicians.”’* That Ad-gefrin and Yevering are names of the same place is sufficiently proved; the change which time has made in the old word is not greater than the transmutations of other names ; the district in which both are placed is the same, for Saxon Bernicia is the present Northumberland; and the river Glen close by Ad-gefrin still retains its name. Medieval records confirm the conclusion. In an old document respect- ing the Vicar of Newton in Glendale, Yevering is called «‘ Gevera;” the rhyming chronicler Harding calls it “ Gete- ryne,” and in escheats made in 18 Henry VI., it is written ** Yevern Villa belonging to Rad’us Grey Miles.” Of the Saxon Melmin there is now neither trace nor tradi- tion; probably, however, the modern village stands on the site of the Saxon town, but the continued occupation, from the Saxon period down to the present time, may have entirely obliterated the relics of the Saxon era.t Ancient British remains have been found at Millfield; leaf shaped bronze swords were discovered there; and in the same locality a very large urn, 15 inches in height, ornamented with the common zig-zag pattern, was found standing on its mouth and covering burnt bones under a tumulus ; this interesting relic is carefully preserved by Mr. Grey of Millfield Hill. In this neighbourhood one of the last struggles was made by the ancient British people for their independence; for accord- * Bede’s Eccles. Hist. Book i., chap. 14. + At Ewart, not far from Yevering, a Saxon fibula was found, which is now in the possession of Sir Horace St. Paul, Bart. Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. 433 ing to Nennius, Arthur, the favourite hero of romance, achieved one of his victories over the Saxons at the mouth of the Glein, which may readily be recognised as the river Glen in Northumberland. Tradition says, that a long quadrangu- lar house at Old Yevering, now occupied by a shepherd, is Ed- win’s palace. The walls are five feet in thickness and built of porphyry blocks, but not in regular courses, and seemingly without lime; squared oak posts pass perpendicularly through the middle of the walls, and they supported the roof and helped too to give stability to these walls. Old doorways and windows with square headings are traceable; but besides rudeness of structure, there are no characters to carry back this building to the Saxon period. Possibly it may stand on or near the site of the old palace; it probably belongs to medizeval times, and may have been a rude pele for the pro- tection of the village against the raids which rendered life and property insecure in the border land. Our chief business, however, is with the early antiquities of Yevering. Through the liberality of His Grace the Duke of Northumberland, means have been supplied to explore them by excavations, and in this Memoir the result of the investigations will be given.* 'Too much must not be ex- pected from each digging ; we are groping our way through a dark period, when indeed there existed but few of the appliances of civilized life ; the people who lived then had little to leave behind them, and therefore but few relics can be discovered. Sometimes indeed some object of peculiar significance may turn up; but it is more by the accumulation of facts made known by the extensive and systematic appli- cation of the pick-axe and spade, that we can hope to arrive at sound general views respecting the military and domestic arrangements, and the habits and character of pre-historic times. All the antiquities examined are in the porphyritic hills, protruded through the sedimentary rocks lying at their base. Many conical peaks rise above this elevated mass, and though distinct and separated by high valleys, they * The Club is indebted to F. Sitwell, Esq., Matthew Culley, Esq., and Wil- liam Roddam, Esq., the owners, and to Mr. Borthwick, Mr. Elliott, and Mr. Gibson, the tenants of the estates examined, for their readiness in grant- ing liberty in making excavations. We had also the benefit of Mr. Coulson’s (of Corbridge,) experience in directing the workmen. Thanks are due to Sir Henry James for the Ordnance Survey; and I am especially indebted to my friend Mr. Wm. Wightman, of Wooler, for the accompanying map of the dis- trict examined. 434 Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. yet roll into each other like the billows of an ocean. The tops of the higher hills are girt round by stone walls, as Yevering, Gleedscleugh, Harehope, and Homildon— these I shall call Forts ; Camps defended by rampiers are on lower eminences ; Fortlets, or fortified houses, of less size than Forts, but with strong stone walls enclosing circular dwellings are scattered over the slopes of the hills and in the high valleys; Hut circles, isolated or in groups, are near to these Fortlets; and on high grounds or laws are placed Barrows, the sepulchres of the ancient population. Here however there is no regularly fortified town or Oppi- dum, like that at Greaves Ash. FORT ON THE TOP OF YEVERING BELL. The summit of Yevering Bell is encircled by a broken down wall, which encloses an area of twelve acres, of a somewhat oval form, the longest diameter being from east to west, and the circumference being a little more than 1000 yards. (Plate XY. A.) Additional defensive walls are on the east and west ends, naturally the weakest points, and they enclose crescent shaped areas ( fig. a) between them and the main wall. The summit is comparatively flat for a mountainous region, yet the eastern end, where the porphyry rock protrudes through the soil, is about 20 feet higher than the general level. At this point there is an inner entrenchment, and within that again is a small enclosure set round with stones. (f%g. b.) Many circular foundations are traceable on the eastern por- tion of the area, but chiefly on the sloping southern side. Antiquaries of a past generation threw by their speculations a mysterious sacredness over Yevering Bell. Hutcheson, in 1778, describes it as a temple consecrated to the adoration of the sun, and used in fire-worship. Another writer says it was certainly a Druidical temple, and that “ the cairn with a large stone on the summit is evidently a Druid altar, where religious rites were performed in the fire-worship; and the circles of ruins on the sides of the hill haye been supposed to be Academies of the Druids.” For these fancies, the chief support has been derived from the name, which has been transposed into Bel-ad-gebrin—Bel being regarded as the same as Baal, a Babylonish title of the sun, and the whole as meaning “‘ Mount of the Sun.” But these etymologies are forced and exceedingly improbable; Baal was a god un- known to the British people; and there is moreover an obvious explanation of the word Bell, from the shape of the Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. 435 hill which is conical, and spreading out at the base like a bell; and this name seems to be of modern origin. Other hills in the neighbourhood have the same designation, as Hebron Bell and Heathpool Bell, neither of which affords any trace of a Druidical temple. Of the old name Ad-gefrin, I can offer no probable explanation.* To help to clear up the mystery of Yevering Bell, the great wall was examined by excavations in three places, the gate- ways were cut into, the inner Fortlet and ditch were explored, and several of the scattered circles were opened out. Walls. 'The stones which formed the great wall are now spread over a width of more than 20 feet, but the excavations shewed that it originally was from 10 to 12 feet in breadth. It had been built of porphyry blocks, without lime, as in other ancient British walls; but the structure was much ruder than that of the Greaves Ash Oppidum. Large blocks were used for the foundation, especially in its outer face, and smaller stones were piled upward, not perpendicularly, but with a slope on both sides, so as to form a pyramidal wall. As the ground generally rises towards the interior of the Fort, the wall is for a few feet built against the hill-side. A “dry stone wall” of a similar kind of the present period, 3 feet broad at the base, and 15 inches at the top, and 5 feet high, forms a good boundary fence; we may therefore infer, that the great wall around Yevering, notwithstanding its rude structure, would present to the enemy a massive de- fence not less than 7 or 8 feet in height. While looking over the wild and singular scene on the top of the hill, a frame of mind is generated with a tendency to exaggerate; and hence astonishment has been expressed at the quantity of stones “‘ borne by human hands to erect this wall;”’ but there is really nothing wonderful in this; for be- fore the wall-builders began their work, the summit and sides of the hill would be covered by stones, quarried by na- ture and adapted for the purpose ; because the porphyry rock is naturally fissured and jointed, and wherever a cliff is ex- posed small blocks tumble down and accumulate in vast numbers. Gateways. There are four gateways or entrances; one on the west ; another 9 feet wide on the east; a third on the north, also 9 feet wide, leading down to an oak forest, which * “Tn Celtic cyfrin signifies secret, and the name Yevering appears to have been substituted from its resemblance to the old word.’’ Sir Gardner Wilkinson, British remains at Dirtmoor, p. 11., 436 Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. clothes part of the northern side of the hill; but the principal entrance is on the south, which is 12 feet in width, and which has a guard-house on its west side of an oval shape 9 feet by 6 feet. This guard-house was cleared, and on its floor were found charred wood, and the broken under stone of a quern, which is of a rude form, 12 inches in diameter, and made of a reddish brown sandstone such as occurs on the Dod- dington hills. Near to this gateway, in a cutting outside of the wall, a small flint was discovered, at the depth of 3 feet; it is 1 inch long, with a sharp cutting edge, and appears to have been a small knife. (Plate XVI. fig. 1.) Inner Fortlet. To ascertain the character of the Entrench- ment or Fortlet (Plate XV, fig. a) within the great Fort, and near to its eastern end was an object of considerable interest, as it was here, according to popular fancies, that Druidical rites were performed. Being the highest part of the hill, and jutting above the general level, it is naturally a strong position; but it has been fortified by a deep ditch and low rampier, encircling a space 170 feet in circumfer- ence. ‘The ditch was examined by diggings, and found to have been originally 5 feet deep, 5 feet wide at the top, and 2 feet wide at the bottom. In most places it has been cut out of the rock; and the stones and earth excavated, had been heaped up on the outer side of the ditch, to form a low defen- sive rampier about one foot in height. At the bottom of the ditch charred wood was found; but not in sufficient quantity or size to prove that there had been a stockade around the entrenchment. The ditch is not carried entirely round, but on the east side the rock is left, and forms a causeway 9 feet wide, giving access into the Fortlet. Some old accounts state, that a paved road 3 paces broad and 30 feet long, led from the outer wall into this Fortlet; but no such pave- ment exists; the cracked and jointed rock, having the ap- pearance of an artificial pavement, has led to the misstatement. Within this Fortlet, at its very highest point, is a small oval enclosure, 13 feet in diameter from north to south, and 10 feet from east to west ; and here, according to imaginative antiquaries, was the Druidical Altar; and here were seen the stones, reduced to a “ calx” by the fire, which consumed the victims. This enclosure, which was filled with small stones and earth, was entirely cleared; but no altars—no cromlechs were seen. At the depth of 15 inches, the rock 7m setu was reached, which formed a rough floor; scattered over it, charred wood was found, and in its centre a copper relic, Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. 437 which resembles a thick pin with a flat perforated head. (Plate XVI. fig. 2.) It is 13 inches long, and is coated over with green carbonate of copper; it is very probably the tongue of a fibula or similar ornament. This enclosure has been excavated out of the rock, and is indeed a kind of pit dwelling, which may have been covered with a roof; but if not, the shelter afforded by the excavation would not be unimportant in this high region, exposed to tempests of wind, rain, and snow. Hut circles. Some of the hut circles were explored by trenches cut through them, and others were entirely cleared ; in all, evidences of occupation were discernible. Their usual size is from 24 feet to 30 feet. in diameter; but one of them is only 18 feet. One circle 30 feet in diameter, had an eastern entrance and was flagged with flat porphyry stones in the same manner as the huts at the Greaves Ash Oppidum ; another of the same size was found rudely paved with small stones ; and in another near to the Fortlet, charred wood was found on the floor at the depth of 4 feet. The hut (Plate XV. fig.c) which is 27 feet in diameter yield- ed more distinctive relics; broken pottery along with charred wood was found on the rude floor at the depth of 15 inches. Excepting one fragment, which is made of fine clay and is of a bright red colour but soft and decomposing, all the pottery is of the coarsest kind, rudely fashioned by the hand, as much as half an inch in thickness, and black throughout, though having a thin film of reddish brown on the exterior. One fragment is the upper part of a jar-shaped vessel and has a groove running round a little below the rim. (Plate XVI. fig. 3.) This pottery, as well as that from another of these hut circles, is similar to the pottery obtained at Greaves Ash Oppidum, and I doubt not is Celtic or Ancient British. Incircle (Plate XV. fig. a) which is 26 feet in diameter, frag- ments of the same kind of coarse pottery were found at the depth of 18 inches, and along with them portions of two oak rings or armlets; one of them is of a dark brown colour and still retains a bright polish on its surface; it is flat on the inner surface and rounded on the upper; and it had been 10 inches in circumference. (Plate XVI. fig. 4.) The other ring (fig. 5) is smaller and more slender, being only 7} inches in circumference, of a pale brown colour and destitute of polish. The upper stone of a quern was also discovered here ; it is different in form and rock from any previously 438 Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. seen in the course of the diggings; it is flat and little more than one inch in thickness; its diameter was 18 inches, and it is made of a hard crystalline syenite, which I cannot identify with rocks belonging to the district. Circle (Plate XV. fig. e) which is 27 feet in circumference yielded at the depth of one foot the following interesting relics : A portion of another oak ring, very dark and brightly polished, and in excellent preservation ; it is flat on the under surface, but the sides of the upper surface slope to a sharp keel; its circumference had been 11 inches, (Plate XVI. fig. 6); a round jasper ball, artificially rounded, 3 inches in circumfer- ence and resembling a large marble; charred wood; and three flints, not having artistic shape nor even appearing to be portions of broken instruments; they seem indeed to have been the rough material out of which weapons and instru- ments were manufactured, leading to the inference, that the old population about Yevering fashioned their own weapons and instruments out of the flints which had been brought from a distance. The oak rings or armlets are an interesting addition to our early relics. Their association with coarse pottery and flints shews that they belong to an early period. A similar ring was found at Logie, Forfarshire, under a barrow along with four human skeletons.* Most of these hut circles in Yevering were a kind of pit dwellings ; for they were cut out of the hill side, so that ex- cepting towards the south and the east they were sunk a few feet below the surface. FORTIFIED DWELLINGS AND HUT CIRCLES EASTWARD OF YEVERING BELL. All around the Bell, where the inclination is not very steep and craggy, fortlets and hut circles are traceable ; but there are more on the eastern side, where the slope is gentle, and in the high valley which lies between the Bell and White- law ; and here several excavations were made. Fortified dwelling. On the descent of the hill, about 500 yards eastward of the top of the Bell, and near to an ancient British road or trackway, there is a pretty large forti- fied dwelling, of an oval shape, 183 feet in diameter from north to south, and 120 feet from east to west, and contain-, ing within it hut circles and enclosures. (Plate XV. fig. H.) The outer wall is strong, and there are supplementary * Wilson’s Prehis. Annals, p. 299, Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. 439 defences on the north and east sides. No diggings were made into this. Fortified dwelling. Descending the hill eastward we meet with one of the most remarkable of these Fortlets. (Plate XV. fig. B.) It is nearly.circular, being 50 feet in diameter from north to south, and 53 feet 8 inches from east to west ; and though small, it has been constructed with remarkable care. The outer stone wall is 7 feet in thickness; and at the side of the gateway it is increased to 12 feet. The outer face was cleared, and masonry was exposed similar to the best at Greaves Ash Oppidum, the wall being built with large up- right stones, some of them from 2 to 3 feet in height, and with smaller stones carefully set between them. The gateway is on the east, and is divided into two en- trances by an upright stone—a rude unhewn pillar, 2 feet 8 inches high, the openings at the side being 3 feet 3 inches and 2 feet 7 inches wide. A guard-house on the north side 6 feet long by 2 feet 9 inches wide protected this gateway, being formed partly within the very thick wall ; on its floor, flagged with flat porphyry slabs, burnt wood was scattered ; and near to it, on the outside of the wall, a broken flint in- strument was found at the depth of 2 feet; it has a cutting edge, is one inch long, and but rudely fashioned ; it seems to have been a javelin head. (Plate XVI. fig. 7.) There are several hut circles within this Fortlet; one op- posite the gateway, 16 feet in diameter was cleared, and a roughly flagged floor was exposed. Another chamber, of a somewhat angular shape, connected with the west wall, was also cleared; it is 9 feet 4 inches by 7 feet 4 inches, and its floor shewed smoother and more regular flagging, than any that has yet been seen in the district. This chamber is at a higher level by 3 feet than the other huts, and there is a sloping pavement leading to it from the lower part of the Fortlet. Notwithstanding the superior construction of this Fortlet, no relics were found excepting the flint and charred wood. No distinct evidence has yet been discovered in Northum- berland of stone-roofed huts, nor any trace of step-over work ; yet I think it is not improbable, but that such small chambers as this guard-house, built against or within the great walls, were vaulted with stone, for usually they are filled up with considerable quantities of stones, which may be the debris of fallen-in roofs. Fortified Dwelling. (Plate XV.C.) Ascending the hillin a 2 F 440 Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. north-east direction from Fortlet B, and crossing the ancient British road, another fortified dwelling is reached of a larger size and ruder structure. The shape approaches to a square with the corners rounded, and it measures internally 93 feet by 80 feet ; the walls formed of large stones, are from 4 feet to 5 feet in thickness ; and the entrance, which is 6 feet wide, is on the north side near to the east wall. Within this Fortlet are several foundations of a rounded form; one of an oval shape, 18 feet by 12 feet in diameter, was cleared, and at the depth of 4 feet a well-flagged floor was exposed. Two up- right stones, 3 feet 3 inches in height, stand on the west side of this flagging. Relics were discovered at two different levels ; at the lowest level, on the flagged floor, there were two hones or sharpening stones, a small perforated stone, a flint, and charred wood. One of the hones is a hard, very fine grained, almost compact trap rock, and the other is softer and a kind of greywacke; though neither occurs 7 se¢w in the district, they may have been obtained from the superficial drift deposits. The flint is but a fragment, but like all the other flint objects found in the district, it has been brought from a distance. The perforated stone relic is of mica schist which does not occur in Northumberland nor on the Borders; it is regularly squared and smooth, 3 inches in length, and when perfect it had been 1 inch broad ; the per- foration is through the middle near to one end. (Plate XVI. jig. 8.) Professor Simpson informed me, that similar stones had been found, belonging to an early period, in Scotland, near to fishing stations, and that they were supposed to have been used as weights to sink nets or fishing lines. At a higher level by 23 feet, or 18 inches from the surface, there were relics of a different character and age. Many fragments of a peculiar pottery were found along with a piece of sheet lead. This pottery is finer, harder and better burnt than that found on the top of the Bell, and indeed than any that is usually regarded as Celtic or Ancient British. Some fragments shew, that some of the vessels had well formed rounded projecting rims, and had also been ornamented by parallel incised lines or grooves — Plate XVI. figs. 9 and 10—yet it is coarse as compared with even the rudest modern pottery, for small pebbles have not been taken out of the clay; much of it is black or dark grey throughout, excepting a thin film of reddish brown on the outside, shew- ing that either vegetable matter had been mixed with the clay, or that the vessel had been burnt in a “smother kiln.” Mr. Tate on Yevering Bell, &c. 441 But the most peculiar character of this pottery is, that it is covered with a yellow glaze. Two other hut circles in this Fortlet were explored; on the flagged floor of one, at the depth of 3 feet, charred wood was found ; and in the other, which is 8 feet in diameter, the upper stone of a quern was lying on its floor. This quern is of the common conical shape, 13 inches in diameter and measuring 6 inches in its thickest part ; it is made of a red- dish porphyry with large felspar crystals, such as occur in the district—a kind usually selected for these primitive hand- mills. The square-like shape of this fortified dwelling might lead to the supposition, that it is of late construction. Doubtless the circle is the prevailing form of Forts and dwellings of early Celtic times ; but this is sometimes departed from, and camps and Forts are frequently modified to suit the nature of the ground. Even this fortified dwelling, however, has its corners rounded, while its other characters ally it with early Celtic buildings ; for it has the same description of thick walls without lime, the same rudely flagged floors, and the same kind of hut circles within. ‘The flint associated with the stone relic indicates an early age, when the Fortlet was originally erected and occupied. After a lapse of time another generation followed more advanced in art, for they used a higher class of pottery, and this difference of time must have been considerable, since debris of 30 inches in depth had accumulated between the two periods of occupation. Fortified dwelling. (Plate XV.K.) 66 June 17. | Head Chesters ° : uv 67 July 22, | Earlston i. 67 Sep. 16, | Doddington (Biteabout ‘Inn) itd OE Dec. 16. | Berwick i i, | 102 | Sir William Jardine, Bart. 1836. May 4. | Houndwood Inn i, | 108 June 15,|Chatton . - i, | 108 July 27. (No meeting). i, | 104 Sep. 21.| Yetholm . : i, | 138 Dec. 21. | Berwick C i. | 1389 | Rev. John Baird, 1837. May 8.]} Houndwood i, | 140 June 21. | Dunse i, | 141 July 26. Haggerston (Lamb Inn) i, | 148 Sep. 20. |} Norham i, | 161 Dec. 20. | Berwick - i, | 161 } Dr. Clarke. 1838, May 1.| Eyemouth - . i, | 162 June 138. | Lauder : i. | 164 July 25.| Greenlaw . i, | 164 Sep. 19. | Ford . : : i. | 179 Dec. 19. | Berwick ‘ i. | 180 | Rev. Thomas Knight. 1839. May 1. | Chirnside June 19, | Coldingham July 24. | Birgham Sep. 18. Milfeld (Fora) Dec. 18. ' Berwick ia — — foe) iS] 212 © Rev. Thomas Riddell. Dec. 15. May 4. June 10. Aug. 3. Sep. 28. Dec. 21. May 3. June 21. July 26. Sep. 20. Oct. 18. May 1. June 19. July 14, Sep, 18. Oct. 30. May 7. June 25, July 30. Sep. 3. Oct. May 3. June 17, July 29. Sep. 16. Noy. 4, May 45. June 16, July 28. Sep. 22. Oct. 20. May 3. June 21, July 26. Sep. 13. Oct, 20. Places visited by the Club since 1831. 461 PLACE OF MEETING. 1840. Cornhill . ; Head Chesters Dunse P F Holy Island . Berwick .- 1841. Ayton 2 ° Wooler . Bank House : Kelso . ; Berwick . 3 1842. Coldstream : Gordon Abbey St. Bathans Lowick : Berwick . cS 1843. Horncliffe or Horckley Greenlaw ; Yetholm . 5 Ford . Berwick . 1844. Etal ‘ Abbey St. Bathans Coldingham The Heather House Berwick . 5 1845, Allanton . : Bank House Fenham . Cheviot (Dunsdale) Berwick . 4 1846. Norham . Stitchell Cockburnspath Chatton Berwick . 1847. Grant’s House 4 Embleton Coldingham. (No meeting. ) Alnwick Marshall Meadows & Bersiek 1848. Hutton ° 6 Milfield Abbey St, Bathans Grant’s House Twizel House eee Berwick and VOL.|PAGE. PRESIDENT. Francis Douglas, M.D. George Darling, Esq. Dr. Johnston, Prideaux John Selby, Esq. Rev. J. Dixon Clark. Robert C. Embleton, Esq. Dr. Clarke, J.S. Donaldson Selby, Esq Captain Carpenter, 462 Places visited by the Club since 1831, DATE, PLACE OF MEETING. VOL, |PAGE. PRESIDENT, 1849, May 2.| Burnmouth . | ii, | 344 June 25. | Lowlynn . c ii. | 346 July 25.| Grant’s House . shod ake OA Sep. 12.) Etal . - : iii. 1 Oct. 18.| Berwick . z oe) ale 2 | William Brodrick, Esq. 1850. May 1.} Cornhill . : om | ails 3 June 19.'| Reston : . iii. 4 July 24.| Dunsdale . . «| ili. 6 Sep. 18. | Warkworth ° . lil. 53 Oct. 23.| Berwick . . . |iii, | 55 | Rev. Dr. Gilly. 1851. May 7.|Cornhill . . ~) ai. |. 98 June 11. | Belford . . S lii. 56 July 16. | St. Boswells 5 Be || as 557) Sep. 3.{|Grant’s House . 5 ii. 85 Oct. 15.| New Water Haugh, Berwick | iii. 87 | Robert Home, Esq. 1852. May 19.| Wooler . : . | iii. | 88 June 30.; Dunse . - 5 iii, | 92 Aug. 4. | Longhoughton 5 eo) ||) ait. 95 Sep. 8.| Newton St. Boswells . iii. | 126 Oct. 13.| Belford . : . | iii, | 127 | George Tate, F.G.S, ; 1853. May 11. | Ford “ : aii. | 128 June 18. | Cockburnspath 4 iii, | 131 July 20. | Abbey St. Bathans . | iil. | 186 Sep. 7.| Embleton ‘ : iii. | 162 Oct. 12,] Berwick . : . |iii, | 165 | Rev. George Rooke. 1854, May 17./ Cornhill . - . | ili. | 165 June 21. | Bamburgh : é ili. | 167 July 19. | Paulinsburn : . | iii, | 168 Aug. 16. | Powburn : : iii, | 169 Sep. 13.| Bamburgh. (No minutes.) Oct. 25. | Berwick - : iii, | 211 | Dr. Johnston. 1855. May 9.|Chirnside . : Ey ve ila June 20. | Bamburgh . . ili. | 212 July 18. } Ayton : - ea aid. |} 28 Aug. 8.|Dunse. (No meeting.) iii, | 213 Sep. 12.| Belford . : . | iii, | 213 | Robert C. Embleton, Esq. 1856. Jan. 80.; Berwick . ‘ iii, | 217 | Robert C. Embleton, Esq. May 21. | Coldstream 5 : ili, | 218 June 25. | Coldingham : - | iii. | 219 July 30.|Dunse . . . iii. | 220 Sep. 24.| Alnwick . > . | iv. 3) Oct. 29.| Belford Hall . - iv. 16 | Wm. Dickson, Esq.,F.A.8, 1857. May 28. | Chatton ; . iv. | 24 June 25.} Yetholm . 5 . | iv. 32 July 30. | Cockburnspath : iy. Oe Sep. 24.) Alnmouth . : ay, 57 Oct, 28. | Berwick : ; iv. 59 | Rey. William Darnell. Places visited by the Club since 1831. 463 PLACE OF MEETING. VOL, |PAGE, PRESIDENT. 1855. Beadnell . : ‘ iv. 60 Farlston - : iv. 61 Greenlaw . ; 5 iv. 61 Norham F : iv. | 119 Berwick eect . | iv. | 124 | John C, Langlands, Esq. 859. Coldingham : . | iv. | 124 Rothbury F : iv. | 132 Melrose . , : iv. | 135 Wooler. ‘ é iv. | 158 Berwick . : . | iv, ; 162 | Ralph Carr, Esq. 1860. Chirnside . - ‘ iy. | 163 Ellamford : ° iv. | 166 Ford : 5 ; iv. | 170 Whittingham . : iv. | 220 Berwick . : . | iv. | 227 | D. Milne Home, Esq. 1861, Kelso : : ; iv. | 229 Linhope : : iv. | 239, Grants House : : iy. | 245 Alnwick : E iv. | 252 Berwick . ; . | iv. | 828 | John Boyd, Esq. 1862. Jedburgh . i . | iv. | 329 Berwick : ‘ iv. | 334 Chatton . F : iv. | 336 Yevering : : iv. | 340 Dunse 7 : ; iy. | 340 2 Ga PLACES OF MEETING OF THE BERWICKSHIRE NATURALISTS’ CLUB, From 1831 to 1862. ApBeEY St. Bathans, 1832, 1834, 1842,, Haggerston, 1837. 1844, 1849, 1853. Head Chesters, 1835, 1840. Allanton, 1835, 1845. Heather House, 1844. Alnmouth, 1857. Holy Island, 1833, 1840. Alnwick, 1847, 1856, 1857, 1861. Horneliffe, 1843. Ayton, 1841, 1855. Houndwood, 1836, 1837. Bamburgh, 1854, 1855. Hutton, 1848, Bank House, 1881, 1841, 1845, Jedburgh, 1862. Beadnell, 1858. Kelso, 1841, 1861. Belford, 1851, 1855. Langleyford, 1832. Belford Hall, 1856. Lauder, 1838. Berwick, annually. Linhope, 1861. Birgham, 1839. Longhoughton, 1852. Burnmouth, 1849. Lowlyn, 1849. Chatton, 1836, 1846, 1857, 1862. Lowick, 1842. Chirnside, 1839, 1855, 1860. Marshall Meadows, 1847. Cockburnspath, 1833, 1846, 1853, 1857.| Melrose, 1859. Coldingham, 1833, 1839, 1844, 1847,| Milfield, 1834, 1839, 1848. 1856, 1859. Newton St. Boswells, 1852. Coldstream, 1832, 1842, L856. New Water Haugh, 1851. Cornhill, 1840, 1850, 1851, 1854. Norham, 1837, 1846, 1858. Doddington, 1835. Paulinsburn, 1854. Dunsdale, 1845, 1850. Powburn, 1854. Dunse, 1833, 1837, 1840, 1852, 1855,| Reston, 1850. 1856, 1862. Rothbury, 1859. Earlston, 1835, 1858. St. Abbs Head, 1832 Ellamford, 1860. St. Boswells, 1851. Embleton, 1847, 1853. Smailholme, 1834. Etal, 1844, 1849. Stitchell, 1846. Eyemouth, 1838. Twizell House, 1834, 1848. Fenham, 1845. Warkworth, 1850. Ford, 1838, 1843, 1853, 1860. Whittingham, 1860. Gordon, 1842. Wooler, 1841, 1852, 1859. Grant’s House, 1847, 1849, 1851, 1861. Yetholm, 1836, 1843, 1857. Greenlaw, 1838, 1843, 1858. Yevering, 1862. BERWICKSHIRE NATURALISTS’ CLUB. LIST OF MEMBERS. Date of Admission. 1, Witi1am Bairp, M.D, British Museum, London 2. Robert Dundas Thompson, M.D., 41, York Terrace, Re- gent’s Park, London Bo a5 ee 3. Robert C. Embleton, Beadnell .. 4, Prideaux J. Selby, Twizel House, Chathill a 5. Sir William Jardine, Bart,, Jardine Hall, Dumfriesshire .. 6. Rey. Thos. Knight, The Rectory, Ford 5 ve 7. Francis Douglas, M. D., India 2 8. Rev. Henry Parker, Rector of Ilderton, Alnwick 9. David Milne Home, Milne Graden, Coldstream 10, Frederick J. W. Collingwood, Glanton Pyke 11. Jonathan Melrose, W.S., Coldstream ole 12. Rey. John Dixon Clark, The Hall, Belford .. on 13. David Macbeath, Berwick- upon-Tweed Ac oe 14, John Boyd, Cherrytrees, Yetholm os a 15. Robert Home, Berwick-upon-Tweed oe 16. Charles Wilson, M.D., 43, Moray Place, Edinburgh ee 17. James Tait, Edenside, Kelso 3 i 18, William Dickson, F.A.S., of Whitecross, Berwickshire ae 19. William Brodrick, 7, Park Street, Bath ; a0 20. John Turnbull, 16, Thistle Street, Edinburgh aie 21, Rev. George Walker, Belford “6 ss ee 22, Ralph Carr, Hedgeley, Alnwick .. ola ee 23. Rey. Matthew Burrell, Chatton .. Bc +: 24, ,, George Rooke, Embleton ae ae 25. Henry Gregson, Lowlyn, Beal .. ee oe 26. Rey. Hugh Evans, Scremmerston a2 AS 27. ,, William Lamb, Ednam, Kelso 5° a 28. Major Elliott, Berwick-upen-Tweed ac ee 29, Patrick Clay, Berwick-upon-T'weed io oe 30. George Tate, F.G.S., Alnwick .. oe 31. The Right Hon. the "Harl of Home, Hirsel, Goldstecama SC . Rev. L. “Shafto Orde, Shorestone, Chathill . R. Hood, M.D., 5, Salisbury-street, Newington, Edinburgh . Rey. Samuel Arnott Fyler, Cornhill », W. Darnell, Bamburgh . Henry Stephens, Redbraes Cottage, Bonnington, Edin- burgh 5 itsnots S. Cahill, M, D., , Berwick-upon- Tweed . W. H. Logan, Berwick-upon- Tweed - John Church, Bell’s Hill, Belford . William Gray, East Bolton, Alnwick oe ee oe - W.Smellie Watson, 10, Forth-street, Edinburgh Sept. 22, 1831 9 9 ” 99 April 20, 1832 Sept.19, ,, April 16, 1833 July 30, 1834 Sept.17, ,, Sept. 21, 1836 May 6, 1840 th) ” Dec. 16, ,, 2? 99 Sept. 18, 1841 June 15, 1842 July 26, 1843 99 Sept. 20, ,, 9 39 99 LP) +e) 99 Oct. 18, ,, Sept. 3,18 9 99 May 3, 1846 99 39 June 3, May 4, 1847 93 June 16, 3 Octs, 2055. ,5 May 3, June 25, July 25, ,, Sept.12, ,, Oct, 18, May 1, July 24, ,, Sept. Weare 82. . John Craster, Lesbury House - Rev. Wm. Rigge, Peak Forest, Chapel- en-le-Frith . Hugh Taylor, Alnwick and Earsdon . William Forster, Alnwick . William Dickson, jun., Alnwick . - John Turnbull, MD., Coldstream ~ . Sir John I Marjoribanks, Bart., Lees, Caldsirenm . Rev. George Selby Thompson, Alnham - George R. Tate, M.D., Royal Artillery, Hong Kong - William Stevenson, Dunse . James Wilson, M. Ds Berwick Shs . William Boyd, Hetton ne ee . Charles Stuart, M.D., Chirnside . Rey. F. R. Simpson, North Sunderland List of Members. George Hans Hamilton, Vicar of Berwick 33 . Thomas Sopwith, F.R.S., 43, Cleveland Square, . Charles Rea, Doddington, Wooler . George Culley, Fowberry Tower, Belford . Ralph Galilee Huggup, Shorestone, Bamburgh . Rev. Charles Thorp, Vicar of Ellingham . John Church, jun., Bell’s Hill, Belford . Charles Watson, ipo ee . Capt. Selby, R.N., Belle Vue, Alawick . Rev. Thomas Leishman, Linton, Berwickshire . George Hughes, jun., Middleton Hall, Wooler . John Charles Langlands, Old Bewick, Alnwick . Frederick R. Wilson, Alnwick Se . Thomas Scott, Broomehouse, Beal . James Gray, Kimmerston, Wooler ate . Dudley Coutts Marjoribanks, M.P., London . J. Scott Dudgeon, Spylaw, Kelso : . T. Y. Greet, Norham a's . Patrick Thorpe Dickson, Alnwick cic . William Sherwin, Barmoor Castle, Beal . Rev. Thomas Procter, Berwick . Matthew Culley, Horton, Belford . John Clay, Berwick Rey. J. W. Dunn, Warkworth a te », William Cumby, Beadnel!l .. ar », William Procter, Doddington Es John Marshall, M.D., Chatton Park, London 83. James Robson Scott, M. D., Scotch Belford, Vethoin 84. Rev. J. Walker, Greenlaw 85. John Stuart, F.S.A. Scot., Register House, ‘Edinburgh 86. John Wheldon, Paternoster Row, London A 87. Middleton Dand, Hauxley, Acklington se . R. M‘Watt, M.D., Dunse . George Peat, Dunse . Rey. Aslabie Procter, Alwinton, Morpeth A . Stephen Sanderson, Berwick S . James Maidment, 25, Royal Circus, Edinburgh . L..Geo. Broadbent, Bamburgh . Dennis Embleton, M.D., Newcastle . Charles B. Pulleine Bosanqnet, Rock . James Alexander, M.D., Wooler . Rey. J. S. Green, Vicarage, Wooler a . Robert Douglas, Berwick ee . Rev. W. Dodd, Vicarage, Chillingham Sh ae ee Date of Admission, Sept. 18, 1850 May 7, 1851 Oct. 15, ” ” ”? ” June 30, 1852 9 ” ”? 39 bed Sepe ‘8, Sept. 7, 1853 OchaAZ-s, Aug. 16, 1854 Oct. 25, ;, May 9, 1855 June 20, ,, July 18, 5,. Jan. 31, 1856 Octe29)s,, June 25, 1857 29 ” June 29, ,, July 30, ” a Oct. 29, June 24, 1858 3”? 9” Sept. 22, ,, Oct. 27, 9 ” ” June 28, 1859 ” Sept.29, ,. May 31, 1860 ’ ” J une 28, 39 ” ” ” July 26, ,, Inst of Members. 100, Rev. John Brooke, Houghton Sheffnal 101, Robert Graham, Embleton 102. Rev. Robert Jones, Branxton .. ae 103. Thomas Brodie, Ford as ats 104, Rev. John Irwin, Berwick ale 105. John Riddell, Bewick Folly, Alnwick a 106. Watson Askew, Paulinsburn be ae 107. Fairfax Fearnley, Adderston, Belford oe 108. William Church, Bell’s Hill, Belford a6 109. Rev. Edward A. Wilkinson, Bamburgh 110. Robert Clay, M.D., Launceston .. 111. G. J. Williamson, Thames Street, London 112. William Mackenzie, M.D., Kelso 113. J. A. H. Murray, Hawick oe oe 114. Charles Douglas, M.D., Kelso .. ee 115. James Patterson, Spittal a we 116. Campbell Swinton, Kimmergham, Dunse 117. Rev. P. G. Douall, Kirknewton, Wooler We 118. Benjamin Nicholson, Hazelridge, Belford .. 119. Henry G. Dand, Togston, Acklington Sc 120. Thomas Brewis, Eshot, Acklington oe 121. William Lowry, Barmoor, Beal are 122. Rev. W. J. Cooley, Rennington, Alnwick ; 123. ,, Robert Henniker, South Charlton, Chathill 124, ,, William Greenwell, Durham 125. The Duke of N orthumberland, Alnwick Castle 126. David Hope Somerville, M.D., Summer Hill, Ayton 127. John Waite, Dunse 128. Edward Hargett, 56, Queen’s Street, Edinburgh 129. John Allan, Bellic Mains, Chirnside ; 130. Richard Hodgson, M.D., Carham, Coldstream 131. Sir Horace St. Paul, Bart, Ewart "Park, Wooler 132. Major Hope Smith, Cruicksfield, Dunse 133, Captain M‘Laren, Coldstream .. 134, Sir George Douglas, Bart., Spring Wood, Kelso 135, William ‘Cunningham, Coldstream 3 136. Thomas Fryer, Grundon Ridge, Coldstream — 137, William Wightman, Wooler oc Se 138, Rev. Court Granville, Alnwick .. 5 139, Thomas Landale, Temple Hall, Coldingham 140, William Dallas, York re a 141, James Bowhill, Ayton a 142, Professor Simpson, M.D., Edinburgh x 143, Thomas G. H. Burnet, Newcastle-on- Tyne 144, John Helson, Jedburgh se 38 145, Christ. Allan, M.D., Wooler .. a4 146, John Scarth, Munderston, Dunse = 147, Septimus Smith, Norham es ae 148, John Paxton, Norham an oie 149, Robert Weatherhead, Berwick .. Ls 150, John Howison, Newcastle-on-Tyne 151. Thomas Mason, Paulinsburn, Coldstream 152, Rev. J. B. Strother, Berwick .. ne 153. Robert Ballantyne, M.D., Jedburgh ot 154. Charles Anderson, Jedburgh ae we 155. John Hume, Jedburgh ae 156. Henry R. Hardie, Stoneshicl, Ayton 157. George Helson, Jedburgh ; 467 Date of Admission. July 26, 1860 9 9 3”? Sep. 13) 55 July 25, 3. ASE ae Sept. 26, ., May 22, 1862 June 26, 468 List of Members. 158. William Elliot, ,, ~ sis 159. James Tait, 7, Union Street, Kelso 160. Alexander Jeffrey, F.S.A. Scot. , Jedburgh. 161. Alexander Jerdon, Jed Foot, Jedburgh Date of Admission. June 26, 1862 2? Lh) 2 ” ” 162. Rev. J. C. Bruce, L.L.D., Newcastle-on-Tyne July 31, ,, 163. John Tate, Bilton Hae Alnwick ao 55 Fa 164. Robert Crossman, Chiswick House, Beal oe 9 r 165. Rev. J. B. Roberts, Shilbottle .. ae a 9 ny 166. ,, Peter Mearns, Coldstream Ae aie an ‘ 167. W. Watson, Hackney, London ot “ Ee 168. John Spottiswoode, Spottiswoode, Lauder .. 50 is $ 169. J. M. Meggison, Berwick ae Ris ae “ A 170. A. Brown, M.D., Coldstream .. a bts 3 ry 171. David Page, Gilmoun Place, Edinburgh... a aA ” 172. Mr. Bailes, Scremerston, Berwick 46 an as * 173. William Crawford, Dunse ate ek «oy ALS ys 174, Rev. James Dand, Ancroft A Avata aie . $ 175. George Rea, Middleton ee Alnwick 5C oe TAUE.285 45 176. David Ferguson, Dunse ate oe ~Septereay x 177. James Wood, Dunse ee oe if, 55 oA 178. John Tait, M.D., Dunse 5c 55 5c a a 179. James Falla, M.D., Jedburgh ., wa oe ” AS ; EXTRAORDINARY MEMBERS. Mrs. Dr. Johnston, Berwick. Miss Hunter, Anton’s Hill. Mrs. Bell, Coldstream. Lady John Scott. ERRATA. Pace 4, line 29, insert “as ’’ before ** parcel.” 99 6, line 21, for ‘an early English church” read “‘a church of the decorated period.’’ 10, line 4, for *‘ground plan” read “ first floor.’’ 19, line 5, for “by ” read * in.” 21, line 7, for “1299 ” read “1249.” 21, line 21, for “ 1299” read * 1249,” 34, line 34, for “ lovile ’’ read ‘ lovite.” 40, line 30, insert ** last” before ‘* meeting.” 110, line 3 from the bottom, for “ tracks ” read * tracts.” 114, from line 15 from the bottom omit “12 ;”? and below this line insert “12. H. Virgata, Da Costa.” 107, line 16, for “ Dunstan” read “ Beadnell.” 171, line 30, for “‘Chefn Uchaf” read ** Cefn Uchaf.” 171, line 30, for “ Now Chefn” read “ Now Cefn.” 171, lines 32 and 33, jor “ Chefn, subst. masc., plural Chefnau ” read “ Cefn, subst. masc., plural ‘Cefnau. 2 172, line 5 , for “ Chefn therefore readily becomes Cheven. The plural formation is Chefnau”’ read ‘* Cefn therefore readily becomes Cheven. The plural formation is Cefnau.” 179, line 26, for ‘“ Rutherford ” read “ Butterfield.” 249, line 11, for “ Hyloptychius ” ead “ Holoptichius.” 443, lines 11 and 12, for “ fig. D.” read * fig. D*.” 455, line 2, for “ approaching ” read “apprehend,” INDEX. Apps Head, 12. Acherontia Atropos, 91. Acmea testudinalis, distribution of, 213. Allosorus crispus, 17. Inmouth meeting, 57. Alnwick barony, parish and Castle, 5, 8, 10, 253. Alnwick meetings, 5, 252. Annelids fossil, 103. Beard, Rev. John, Obituary of, 324. Barnes, Rev. J. W., Obituary of, 89. Barrows, 304, 390, 448. Basaltic dike, 107. Basaltic whin sill, 254. Baulks or terraces, 181, 2438, 314, 448. Beadnell, Geology and Archeology of, 96. Beadnell meeting, 60. Belford manor, 20. Belford meeting, 16. Berwick meetings, 59, 124, 162, 328, 334. Berwickshire Naturalists’ Club Meet- ings from 1831 to 1862, 460-464. Berwickshire Naturalists’ Club, List of Members, 465-468. Bewick Chapel, 53. Birds, 138, 205, 211. Boome tree, 12. Botanical and Zoological Notices, 155. Boyd, John, his Address, 327, Boyd, Wm. B., his list of rarer Insects at Hetton Hall, 321. Brinkburn Priory, 133, 139. Brough law, 314. Calamintha asinos, 161. Callaly legend, 225. Camps noticed, 62, 131, 137, 158, 169, 175, 224, 242, 303, 336, 454. Capon trees, 331. Carr, Ralph, his Address, 157; on the Use of the Lark’s long claw-heel, 209; on the Northumberland dia- lect, 356. Caster Fiber in Scotland, 76. Cataractes, 91. Chatton meetings, 24, 336 ; history of, 31. Chesters Camp, 305. Cheviot, etymology of, 171. Chillingham, 25, 337. Chillingham Wild Cattle, 338. Chirnside meeting, 163; early history of, 184. Clarke, Rev. J. Dixon, on Spurs found near Belford Castle, 89. Cockburnspath meeting, 38. Celopa frigida, 326. Coins noticed, 18, 36, 161. Coldingham, 47; meeting at, 124. Colias Edusa, 92. Columba Turtur, 205. Crailing Caves, 316. Cyprze Europea, habits of, 90. Darnell, Rev. Wiiliam, his Address, 57. Davis, Dr. Barnard, his description of the Calvarium of a Skeleton in An- cient British Grave at North Sun- derland, 430. 2 Dickson, Wm., F.A.S., his Address, 3; on marsh samphire, 65; on Rothbury and its Saxon Cross, 66; on a Roman Altar at Gloster hill, 86; notes on Etal, 179. Dod Well, 40. Druidical Temple, 451. Dunse meeting, 341. Earlston meeting, 61. Edins Hall, 167, 247. Ellamford meeting, 166. Embleton, Robert, his Obituaries of the Rey. Jos. W. Barnes, 89, of Rey. 470 John Baird, 824; Miscellania Zoo- logica, 90, 155, 459 ; additions to the Zoology of Berwickshire, 208. Etal, 179. Fairy stones, 135. Farne Island, 13. Fast Castle, 28. Fish, 155, 212. Flodden Field battle, 365. Ford meeting, 170; barrows, 390. Fossils, 41, 59, 99, 107, 149, 168, 228, 231, 331, 335. Geology, Fast Castle, 39; Beadnell, 96; Tweed, 122; Coldingham and Abbs Head, 127; Berwickshire Coast and Hastern Borders, 149; Middleton Bog, 158; Whitadder, 165, 168; Roebuck and Elk, 206; Whittingham, 223; Kelso, 236; Cockburnlaw, 249; Ratcheugh Crag, 254; Jedburgh, 331; Berwick, 336 ; Kaims, 341; Railway cuttings, 394. Goodyera repens, 323. Grants House meeting, 245. Greaves Ash Celtic town, 293. Greenlaw meeting, 61. Greenwell, Rev. Wm., his account of Ford barrows, 390. Hardwick, P.C., his notes on the Ber- wick Chapel, 53. Hardy, James, his list of Berwickshire Spiders, 92; Botanical and Zoo- logical notices, 155, 210; on Fossil Antlers of the Roebuck and gigantic Elk found at Coldingham, 206; on Antler of the Red Deer, 214; his- tory of the Wolf in Scotland, 268 ; Lichen Flora of the Eastern Borders, 376. Henderson, Geo., Botanical notices, 292, Heathpool baulks, 448. Home, D. Milne, his Address, 216; on Crailing Caves, 316; on the Kaims in Berwickshire, 341; notices of Camps near Milne Graden, 454. Hurle stone, 26. Ingram, 239. Insects, 37, 59, 156, 165, 213, 321. Jardine, A., notice of Plants, 333. Jedburgh meeting, 329, 344. Jeffrey, Alex., F.S.A. Scot., on Jed- burgh, 344. Kaims, 249, 341. INDEX. Kelso meeting, 229. Kelso, notes on, by J. Stuart, F.S.A. Scot., 261. Langlands, J. C., his Address, 119; notes on Abbey St. Bathans, 167. Lark’s long heel-claw, notice of, 209. Lastrea cristata, 37. Lichens of the Eastern Borders, 396. Linhope meeting, 238. Locusta migratoria, 91. M‘Laren, Captain A., his account of a Stone Coffin in Coldstream church- yard, 319. Meetings ofthe Club from 1831 to 1862, 460, 464. Melrose meeting, 135. Melrose, notes on, by J. Stuart, F.S.A. Edin., 145. Members, list of, 465, 468. Meteorology, 137, 235. Middleton Bog, 158. Milne Graden Camps, 454. Mollusca, land and fresh water, in the neighbourhood of Alnwick, 110. Mote hills, 162. Noctua Tengmalmi, 459. Norham meeting, 120. Northumbrian Dialect, 356. Pagurus Prideauxii, 212. Paterson, James, his notice of a Roman Quern found at Berwick, 323. Paulin on Salmon, 43. Pine trees, 11. Plants, 37, 61, 63, 65, 131, 124, 136, 155, 164, 174, 210, 241, 292, 323, 333, 339, 396. Pterichthys major, 41. Railway cuttings, observations to be made in, 394. Roman Altar, 86. Roman Quern, 323. Rothbury and its Saxon cross, 66; meeting, 132. Saint Bathan, 194. Saliurnia herbacea, 65. Salmon, 43. Saxon sculptured stones at Norham, 218. Scolopax major, 92. Sculptured stones, 233, 337. Selby, J. P., on Venessa Antiopa and Colias Edusa, 92. Simpson, Rey. F. R., his notice of INDEX. Celopa frigida, 326; account of An- cient British grave at North Sunder- land, 428. Spiders of Berwickshire, 92. Stuart, Dr. Chas., on Chirnside, 163; on Hutton Hall, 189. Stuart, John, F.S.A. Edin., on Melrose, 145; on Chirnside, 184; on Kelso, 261. Tate, George, F.G.S., on the Geology and Archeology of Beadnell with descriptions of carboniferous Anne- lids, 96; Fauna of the mountain limestone of Berwickshire, and on the succession of the strata on the Eastern Borders, 149; on the dis- tribution of Acmea testudinalis, 213; on the old Celtic town of Greaves Ash, near Linhope, with an account of diggings into ancient re- mains in the Valley of the Breamish, 293; notes on Cockburnspath, 38 ; Norham, 120; Coldingham, 127 ; Wooler, 158; Ford, 173; Whit- tingham, 220; Kelso, 229; Linhope and Ingram, 238; Ratcheugh Crag, 471 254; Jedburgh, 329; on the Anti- quities of Yevering Bell and Three Stone Burn, with an account of ex- cavations into Celtic forts, hut dwell- ings, barrows, and stone circle, 431. Tate, George R., M.D., his Catalogue of Land and Fresh Water Shells in the neighbourhood of Alnwick, 110. Terraces, 243, 181, 314, 448. Three Stone Burn Stone Circle, 450. Totanus Glottis, 91. Trees noticed, 11, 331, 333. Venessa Antiopa, 92. Whittingham meeting, 220. Wilson, Charles, M.D., on the prior existence of the Caster Fiber in Scotland, 76. Wilson, Frederick R., on Brinkburn Priory, 139; notes on Ford, 175. Wolf, history of, in Scotland, 268. Yetholm meeting, 32; history of, 35. Yevering meeting, 340; its antiqui- ties, 431. a* AaIF the Nat:Size. . John Storey, lith York . M & NW Hanhatt,Imp! JAMES HARDY DET TRANSFERRED BY F-R-WISON - ALNWICK “BACK. NEW Of PALM OF ANTLER of MEGAOEROS HIBERNICUS founda. ab Cotdlimg ham — ir (859 - pirate 4 . ; \ NY Rk if PANS Yj NUN W) my ASH, | aN (YRS ih \\ Si S RRR NAIR OIRO NOG LLG Lares G KAREENA °>™»F"§" FE» Ss. an | ee. “REMAINS or me CELTIC TOWN OM GREAYES AGH: winx LINHOTPE SURYEYES BY ¥¥™ WIGHTMAN : WooreR : UTHOGRAPHED SY OF: A: Wen: ARowT Arner: 1862. Pome 2 enans on 152 FEET To ONE INCH. 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