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PT3BUC LIBRARY
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A HISTOPY
IJickinson v^ounty, Iowa
TOGETHER WITH ^S
The Spirit Lake Massacre, a Troubles on » !orth
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A HISTORY
OF
Dickinson C^ounty, Iowa
TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OF
The Spirit Lake Massacre, and the Indian
Troubles on the Northwestern
Frontier.
ILLUSTRATED
By R. a. smith
Des Moines:
The Kenyon Printing & Mfg. Co. MDCCCCII
^N ■
215255B
Entered according to Act of Congress in the Year 1902,
by R. A. SMITH, in the office of the Librarian
of Congress, at Washington.
INTRODUCTION.
There has for some time existed a feeling that a connected account of the Indian trouble on the northwestern border of Iowa should be given to the public, or rather that what facts are preserved should be so grouped that a person reading them could form a reasonably intelligent idea of them. Any person fol- lowing this line of investigation will soon come face to face with the fact that the sources of information are extremely limited. The writer has endeavored to give as correct and con- cise an idea of the points treated as w^as possible under the cir- cumstances, and it seems appropriate to combine them with the early liistory of Dickinson County, inasmuch as that was the storm center around which, so far as Iowa is concerned, these events seemed to culminate.
■ In doing this work he has quoted freely from sucli sources as were accessible and known to be reliable, and notably so from the writings of Hon. C. E. Flandrau, Hon. Harvey Ing- ham, Hon. A. R Fulton and Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp, giv- I iug at all times the proper credit. The writer was a member of
.,^ the Relief Expedition in 1857, and assisted in burying the ^ victims of the massacre at that time, and much of what is
J written in that regard came under his own personal observa-
tion. He was also a member of the first party that effected a "T settlement subsequent to the massacre and nas given those
events as nearly correct as he can remember them after the A lapse of near half .a century.
^ Many will remember that in the centennial year Governor
-s^ Kirkwood recommended that the several counties procure a sum-
^ mary or synopsis of their pioneer history, and to the writer here-
_ £> with was assigned the task of preparing one for Dickinson '■-'^ County. The article was published in the Spirit Lake Beacon
<){ tli.at year riiiniinii' throno-li ton imiiihovs. TTad thai paper not l)Qeii preserved the present woi-k \v<iiil<l not have l)een at- tempted. Tn writini;' n]» tlic eonnty liistory ])ni|)er lie has dv- parted somewliat from the nsnal method ; wlicthcr wisely or nnwiselv remains to he seen. It has citnic to h(v the ])raetiee too mneh in works of this kind to <>ive a lilowijiu' write-np for those who are able and willing- to ])ay well fm' it and ignore others whose work may have l)een more valn.ahle, in hnihling np and developing the eonntry hnt who do not feel that they have money to invest that way.
Tt has heen the aim of the writci- to evade this objection and to avoid everything that looked like favoritism or booming anybody's bnsiness. In this he realizes that he may have gone to the other (>xtreme. In fact this defect, "if defect it be, became more app.areiit as the work ncareil completion and it was too late to remedy it. Smdi as it is it mnst go to the pnblic who will donbtless judge it at its trne value.
Table of Contents.
CHAPTER I 9
Dickinsou County— Location and riiysical Features— The Lakes- Indians of Iowa Uepreseut Two Distinct Races— Aljionquins and I )acotalis— Algonquin Tril)es, Sacs, Poxes, Pottawattaniies. Il- linois and Muscatines— Dacotali Tribes, lowas, Omalias, Winne- bagos and Sioux— The Neutral Line— The Neutral (Jround- Treaties —The Treat.v for the Purchase of Northwestern Iowa
CHAPTER II 27
Treaty of 1851— Minnesota Reservation— TJpiter and Lower Ageu- cies— the Wahpekutah Sioux— Wan)disappi and the Outlaw I'.and Leave tlie Main Tribe— at Wauidisappi's Death Sidoniinadotah Be- comes Chief— Has Trouble With Lott Xear ^louth of Boone River— Lott Murders the Chiefs Entire Famil.v— Some Extracts from Iliirvey Ingham's "Scraps of Earl.v History''
CHAPTER III 39
Dickinson County— Name— First Exploration— French Traders- Lewis and Clarke— Nicollet and Fremont— The Famous Astronom- ical Observation— The First Attempt at Settlement in 1850
CHAPTER IV. 49
The Party From Jasper County— They Encounter a part of Inkpa- dutah's Band at Loon Lake— The Exposed Condition of the Fron- tier—Necessit.v for Protection- Governor Grimes Appeals to Con- gress and the I'resident— His Appeal Unheeded— The Terrible Win- J ter of 185G and 1857— Inkpadutah's Band Go South— The Trouble at Smithland — Different Versions— The Indians Start up the River I —Trouble at Peterson and in Buena Vista County— Gillett's Grove — Gillett's Account as Given in the History of Clay Count.v— Set- , tiers Send to Fort Dodge For Assistance— Duncombe's Account
CHAPTER V 04
Situation at the LaJ^es — The Indians in Camp— Incidents of the I
First Da.y of the Massacre — Abbie Gardner Taken to Their Camp ' a Prisoner— Second Da.v of the Massacre — Mrs. Thatcher and Mrs.
Noble Taken Prisoners — The Indians Cross the Lake and Go North i
To Marble Grove — Marble Killed and Mrs. Marl)le Taken Prisoner •
CHAPTER VI 72 ;
Discover.y of the Massacre — Markham's Narrow Escape — He Car- ries the News to Springfield — The Report Also Reaches Fort Dodge . But is Not Crediteil at First— Howe and Wheelock Reach Fort i Dodge — Their Account Accepted As True — Public Meeting field— i Volunteers Called For— Two Companies Raised Here and One At ] Webster Cit.v — ExpcMlition Starts For the I>akes— Incidents of the j March— Meet the Springfield Refugees — Meet Messenger From U. ' S. Troops— Main Bod.v Turns Back— Detachment of Twenty-Three ' Proceed to the Lake
CHAPTER VII 86 '.
The Burial — Preparations for the Return— The Part.v Divides— The ;
Storm — Adventures of the Party That Remained Behind i
CHAPTER VIII 95 j
Extract From Lieutenant Maxwell's Account of the Expedition— j Bur.ving the Dead — The Part.v Divides — Captain Johnson and Fif- .' teen Others Start Across the Prairie— Their Terrilde Sufferings— | Johnson and Burkholder Perish on the Prairie— (ioveruor Car- penter's Account of the Return Trip of the Main Bod.v— Terrible t Experience on Cylinder Creek — Heroism of the Old Major
CHAPTER IX Ill
Inkpadutah at Heron Lake — Other Bands of Indians— Affairs at ]
Springfield— The Attack and Defense— A Vivid Account liy Hon. ;
Charles Aldrich— Heroism of Mrs. Church I
CHAPTER X 121
Troops From Port Ridgley Reach Springfield- Their Suffering— j
Judge Flandrau's Account— The Indians Start West— The Pursuit- j
Pursuit AI)andoned— Indians Reach the Big Sioux— Tragic Death of ]
Mrs. Thatcher— Cross the Big Sioux and Move Westward— Camp Visited B.v Two Agency Indians— They Purchase Mrs. Marble and Start Back— Inkpadutah Sells Mrs. Noble and Miss tiardner to a Yankton— Mrs. Noble Murdered by Roaring Cloud— They Reach James River— TTie Yankton Camp— Arrival of Three Indians From the Agency— They Purchase Miss Gardner— The Return Trip
CHAPTER XI 140
Government Apathy— No Attempt to Punish the Outlaws— Roaring Cloud Ventures Near the Agency— Is Killed by a Party of Soldiers and Volunteers— Little Crow Sent in Search of the Outlaws
■| I I
CHAPTER XII 147
Effect of the Massacre Elsewhere— Attraction of Emigrants— The Howe and Wheelock Party— J. S. Prescott and His Party— Geo. E. Spencer and the Newton Party
CHAPTER XIII 152
The Three Parties— The Trip to the Lalies— Taking Claims — The Claims of the Victims of the Massacre— A Wrong Impression Cor- rected— Granger and the Red Wing Party— Prescott's Visionary Scheme— The Spirit Lake Town Site Locat(>d— The Old Fort— The First Religious Meeting— Mode of Living •
CHAPTER XIV 166
Naming the Lakes— Organizing the County— Hill's Trip' to Sioux City to Obtain the Order for the Election— The Election Held— Offlcers Elected— Carrying in the Returns— ITie I>oom— The Panic- Its Effect on the Settlement— The First Sawmill— The First Family After the Massacre— Peters and the Old Red Mill— The General Election
CHAPTER XV 185
The Spirit Lake Claim Club— The First PostofBco— The First Mail Koute— Torsou's Wonderful Feat— PostofiQce at Okobo.ji— The First Funeral— The First White Child Born in the Emigration in 1858— Farming— The Ravages of the Blackbirds
CHAPTER XVI 196
Disagreements and Jealousies— The Troops Ordered Back to the Lakes— John Campbell and His Baud of Indians— Two Recognized as Members of Inkpadutah's Band— Are Arrested But INIake Their Escape— Campbell Tried and Hung for Murder at Mankato— "Bad . Hail" and His Band— Indian Medical Practice— Quarrel Over the Steam Mill— Attempt to Replevin the Logs— A Fight Prevented by An Unlooked-For Circumstance- Umpashota and His Band
CHAPTER XVII 209
Emigration in 1859— The Government Surveys Completed — The Homestead Law— The First Physician- TheFirst Marriage Ceremony The M. E. Church- Rev. Cornelius McLean — His Successor — The Circuit — The First Singing Scbool — Special Election for Disposing of the Swamp Land— A Brief Review of tbe Swamp Land Question — Building the Courthouse and Two Bridges — Subse(iuent Bridges on the Same Sites
CHAPTER XVIII ..'. 225
Discoflraging Circumstances— Apprehensions of Indian Troubles- Measures For Defense— The Minutemen— Last Hostile Indian Killed in Iowa— The Townships— County Government— The First Board of Supervisors— The Breaking Out of the War— The Call for Troops- Heavy Enlistments— Renewed Apprehensions of Indian Troubles- Governor Kirkwood Appoints Judge Baldwin to Look After Fron- tier Defense
CHAPTER XIX
The Minnesota Massacre— How It Began— Ambush of Captain Marsh— The Battles of Fort Ridgley and New Ulm— The Indian Dread of Artillery— Colonel Sibley Placed in Command— The Bat- tle of Birch Coulee— The Prisoners— Sibley's Effort to Get Them Without Fighting a Failure— Battle of Wood Lake— Siltley Makes Another Demand for the Prisoners— Indians Divided— The Larger Partv With the Prisoners Surrender at Camp Release— Little Crow With His Band Escapes Up the River-Little Crow Ventures to the Settlement the Following Year and is Killed— The Indian 1 ris- oners Tried by a Military Commission and Three Hundred and Three Sentenced to be Hung— President Lincoln Interferes— Orders Thirty-nine of the Leaders Hung
CHAPTER XX .;,■■:,; ;:■;.■
Events in Iowa— The Massacre Along the Des Moines— The Reliet Party— Appeal for Government Protection— The Sioux City Cav- alry--The Week at the Old Courthouse-Building the Stockade
CHAPTER XXI ;•■• ;•••■
Governor Kirkwood Takes Deep Interest in Frontier Matters- Sends Colonel Ingham to the Frontier-His Report-The Legisla- ture Called in Splcial Session-The First Bill Passed Provides for the Northern Border Brigade-Joint Resolution Asking Govern- ment Protection-Organization of the Northern Border Brigade- Colonel Sawyers Placed in Command-Governor Kirkwood Appoints Honorable George L. Davenport to Collect Information-His Re- Dort-Speculatious as to the Cause of the Outbreak-Opinions by HonoraWe Geoi^e L. Davenport-General Sully-Judge Flandrau and Others
237
263
CHAPTER XXII 375
Expeditions Against the Indians— Sully's Expedition— His Force Leaves Sioux City and Follow Up the Missouri — Expect to Form a Junction With Sibley's Forces at Apple River— On Arriving Ttiere Find Sibley Has Been TTiere and Turned Back— Battle of White Stone Hill— The Return to Sioux City— Sibley's Command- Move Across Minnesota— Fight Three Battles Before Reaching the Missoui-i- On Reaching the Missouri Find That Sully Has Not Yet Arrived— Rest Two Days and Then Turn Back— The Expeditions of 1864
CHAPTER XXIII 287
Close of Military Operations on the Frontier— A Summary— The Fur Business— Trapping and Gathering Fur— Early Literary So- cieties—The Okoboji Literary League— The "Legend of Spirit Lake "
CHAPTER XXIV 301
Causes Delaying Emigration— A Period of Dullness— The Early Work of the Methodist Episcopal Church— The Early Preachers— The First Camp Meeting— The First Religious Revival— The Fear- ful Storms— Blizzards— Who Coined the Word— A Description From the "Great Divide"— A Few Experiences— A Romantic Wedding Trip.
CHAPTER XXV 317
The Settlement at Lakeville in 18G6— The First After the Close of the War— The Wet Summer— High Prices for Provisions— The First Settlers in the Other Towns— The Fuel Question— Burning Hay- Burning Corn— The Sod Shanty
CHAPTER XXVI 330
The Sioux City & St. Paul Railroad— The Building of the Milford Mills— Several Controversies— The Level of the Water in the Lakes— The Courthouse Burned
CHAPTER XXVII 341
A Period of Prosperity— Postofflce at Lakeville and Lake Park— The Grasshopper Raid of 1873— Where They Came From— Views of D. A. W.Perkins— Their Depredations— Extract from J. A. Smith's Pamphlet— The Seed Grain Question— The Legislature Appealed To —They Appropriate $50,000 to Byy Seed Grain— Commissioners for Distribution
CHAPTER XXVIII 349
The Second Invasion— The Destruction Greater Than Ever— Whole Neighborhoods Abandoned— Extract From Governor Carpenter's Article in "The Annals"— Grasshoppers Block Railroad Trains- General N. B. Baker— His Efforts in Behalf of Gras^opper Suf- ferers Impair His Health— His Visit To Spirit Lake
CHAPTER XXIX 360
The Earlv Schools— Lack of Funds— Amusing Incident Related by Hon. A. W. Hubbard— The First School at Spirit Lake— The Court- house Used for School Purposes— The Early Teachers— The First School at Center Grove— The Little Log Sehoolhouse Built by Sub- scription—The Early Teachers— The School at Okobo.ii- The School Building Erected by Subscription— The School at Tusculum— The Dickinson County Teachers' Association— The Early Institutes
CHAPTER XXX 369
The Need of a Railroad— Local Schemes— The Spirit Lake & Sioux Valley Railroad Company Organized— Survey Made— Aid Voted— The Scheme a Failure— The Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul In- duced to Make a Survey— The Chicago & Northwestern— The Burl- ington, Cedar Rapids & Northern the First to Build in the County —J. S. Polk and the Narrow Gauge
CHAPTER XXXI 376
Disappearance of the Game— The Last Buffalo Killed in Iowa— "Hegira of the Elk"— Extract From a Paper Written by J. A. Smith for the Midland Monthly— The Deer— "Bob-Cats "
CHAPTER XXXII 387
Early Fishing— The Supply Begins to Diminish— Measures Adopted for Their Protection— The Fish Hatchery at Anamosa— Branch at Spirit Lake— The State Hatchery Moved to the Lakes— It Is In- juriously Affected by Both High and Low Water and is Finally Abandoned— Legislative Restrictions— Fish Shanties Prohibited
CHAPTER XXXIII 396
Early Boating— The First Sailboats— The First Regatta— A Lucky Accident— Other Boat Races— The Yacht Club— A Narrow Escape— The First Steamers— The Favorite and Alpha— Larger Steamers Demanded— The Hiawatha— The Ben Lennox and the Queen
CHAPTER XXXIV 413 \
The Town of Spirit Lake— Selection of the Site— Arrival of the ;
First Families— The Four Women Who Wintered Here the First I Winter- The First Bnilrlings- The Old Fort Used as a Hotel— The
First Frame Houses— The First Social Events— An Old Fashioned ]
Fourth of Julv Celehration— The First General Store— The First i
Hotel— How the Title to the Town Site Was Obtained— The Enter- ": prise Abandoned by the Original Promoters and the Land Proved Up as a Private Claim — Life in the Town During the' War
CHAPTER XXXV 429 \
Spirit Lake Town Continued— The Early Merchants— The Early i
Business Iliiuses (ienerally — The Beacon Block— The New Cran- i
dall House— The Coming of the Railroads— The Ifoller Skate Craze I
— Incorporation of the Town— The First Officers- The New Court- 1
house— The First Brick Buildings— The Steve'^is Block— The Elec- I
trie Lights— A. M. Johnson's Store- The RolK^r Mill— The Cold ]
Storage Plant ]
CHAPTER XXXVI 443
The Spirit I^akc I'ostoffice— ^Postmasters— The Spirit Lake Beacon, ]
rrhe Pioneer Newspaper — The Early Advertisers— Pearly History of
the Paper by J. A. Smith— Its Subsequent History— Other Ventures
in the Newspaper IJne— The Dickinson County Journal— The Spirit j
Lake Democrat— "Huckleberry's Paper"— The Spirit Lake Pilot— 1
The Dickinson County Herald — Civic Societies '.
CHAPTER XXXVII 458 \
The Early Churches— M. E. Pastors— Baptists— First Church Build- ing in the County— Rev. J. L. Coppoc— Subsequent Pastors— Con- ' gregationalists— Lutherans— The Catholics— The Evergreen Sabbath ! School— Spirit Lake Musical Association— The Pioneer Cornet Band —The Pioneer Girls' Club— The Spirit Lake Chautauqua '
CHAPTER XXXVIII 470 j
Milford, its Location— The First Settlement of Mllford and Oko- '
boji Townships- The Old Town— The First Hotels and Stores—
Farlv Entertainments— The Milford Library Association— Amateur
ITheatrieals— The Milford Dancing School— The Early Churches— . j
The Work of Rev. J. R. Upton— The Ituilding of the Railroad I
Forces the Moving of the Town '
CHAPTER XXXTX.... 495 j
Lake Park. Superior and Terrill— Silver Lake Townshi)), a Little •! of Its Earlv History— The Early Schools— The First Postofflce— Early Religious Meetings— The Coming of the Railroad— The Town
of Lake Park— The First Business Houses and Enterprises— The I
Lake Park News— Churches— Civic Societies— Postofflce— Incorpora- j
tiou of the Town- Mayors— Present Officers- Superior— The Town |
Started by the Railroad Company— First Postofflce— The First j
Business Ventures— PostofBce— Incorporation— Officers— The De- ,] structive Fire of 1897— Terrill— Carpenter's Wild Railroad Scheme
CHAPTER XL 516 '
The Earlv Summer Tourists— Limited Accommodations— A Brief
Description of the Lakes— Extract From Geological Report— The ' ;
Early Stopping Places— Crandall's Lodgi — Lilly white's Lodge- Other Early Stopping Places— The Orleans Hotel
CHAPTER XLI 527
Resorts on West Okobo.il— Armdd's Park— Its Growth— Variety of Entertainment— The Annual Shooting Tournament— Miller's Ray— The Popular Fishing (iround— The Observatory— The Highest Land in Iowa— What Professor McBride Says of It— Smith's Point— Oko- boi'i Bridge— Some of the Early Visitors— The Botany Class of the State T'niversity— The Okobo.ii Postoffice— The Later Resorts on West Okobo.ii
CHAPTER XLtl . . . . : 555
Farmers' Organizations— The Dickinson County Agricultural So- eiety— The Grange— The Farmers' Alliance— Farmers' Institutes— The Dickinson County Farmers' Mutual Insurance Company— A Few Statistics of the Growth of the County— A Full List of the County Officers to the Present Time— State and District Officers Elected and Appointed From This County
CHAPTER XLIIl ^^
The MoiNiment— LegLslation Relating to It— Commissioners Ap- pointed—Thev Organize— Ex-Governor Carpenter ^lade Pr(>sidcnt— Contract Awarded to I'. N. Peterson Company of St. Paul. Minne- sota-Monument ( "omi)leted— Report of ( 'ommissi<iiiers— 1 )e(lic;iti()n of Monument— Addresses by R. A. Smith. Hon. C. E. Flandrau. of St Paul. Hon. C. C. Carpenter, Lieutenant Governor Dungan, Secretary Richards and Others
CHAPTER XLIV •''83
Conclusion
CHAPTER I.
DICKINSON COUNTY LOCATION AND PHYSICAL
FEATURES THE LAKES INDIANS OF IOWA EEP-
EESENT TWO DISTINCT RACES ALGONQUINS AND
DACOTAHS ALGONQUIN TRIBES, SACS AND FOXES,
POTTAWATTAMIES, ILLINOIS AND MUSCATINES
DACOTAH TRIBES, lOWAS, OMAIIAS, WINNEBAGOS
AND SIOUX THE NEUTRAL LINE THE NEUTRAL
GROUND-TREATIES THE TREATY FOR THE PUR- CHASE OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA.
ICKINSO^^ COUJSTTY is the third county in the state from the west line and in the nortli tier of connties bor- dering on the Minnesota line. It is twenty-four miles in length east and west, and nearly seventeen miles in width north and south, and therefore embraces an area of about four hundred square miles, about eight per cent of which is covered with lakes.
It is the most elevated county in the state as it lies Qin the ''height of land" or great water shed between the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers .and is drained by the upper branches of both the upper Des Moines and Little Sioux Rivers, which empty respectively into each of the before named streams. Its altitude is about seventeen hundred feet above tide water. The marked physical feature which distinguishes Dickinson from the other counties of northwestern Iowa is her numerous lakes. First and last, many descriptions of these lakes have been written up and published, but by far the most interesting and read- able is that contained in Prof. T. H. M.acBride's report o^i the geology of Dickinson and Osceola Counties. Writing on this subject he says :
10 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
"The lakes of our region lie almost all in Dickinson County. ISlot that Osceola is destitute of similar topogTajDhic features, but for some reason the peculiar conditions that resulted in lakes of size were developed farther east. * * * But in Dickin- son (Jountj the lakes are the features of the topogra2)hy, iiiany of them deep enough to promise permanency, ^and several so large as to have long attracted popular attention by their beautiful l)lue waters and the charming outlines of their shores. Minne Waukon or Spirit Lake, is as we have seen, historic, nay, is it not prehistoric '( Even for the red man these beautiful gems of the prairie had name and fame. He hung them around with legends of his own and named them in his own poetic, mystic fashion. Okoboji, })]aee of rest; Minnetonka, great water; Minne Waukon, lake of demons, lac d'esprits, were every one apparently familiar to all the tribes and nations of the Sioux, and were doubtless known bv name at least to all the eiffhteenth- century trappers and voyageurs. Okoboji, evidently distin- guished by the red man, was by white explorers generally reckoned part of Spirit Lake, and is so entered on the earlier maps. The two bodies are in fact part of a remarkable system extending in chain-like fashion for twenty miles or more in Iowa and probably almost as far in Minnesota. ^Nevertheless, the greater lakes have now no natural connection with each other ; they are in general quite unlike and have, in some details at least, a different geological historv. In all cases the water level seems dependent entirely upon rainfall. The few springs discoverable are small aiul insignificant, while of affluent streams there are practically none ; none at least that bring in ])erennial waters. The overflow of the Minnesota lakes, it is claimed, reaches our Spirit Lake, and certain smaller lakes to the west and north are also on occasion tributary. But all the lakes, whether in Iowa or Minnesota, are subject to sim- ilar f(n"tune. In rainy seasons full, they send their waters to the common outlet; in drier years there is no surplus and the outlet fails. In fact the lakes are each and all simply great pools left on the surface by the retreating glacier, mark- ing points where the ice was somewhat thicker or the amount of' detritus carried somewhat less abundant. They owe not their existence to erosion; no recent change of level has formed an outlet for their waters ; such as they are, such were they when the latest geologic epoch closed. The ]iresent form and con- dition of the outlet would not suggest that the principal lakes,
THE LAKES — TilOr. MC BRIDE 1 1
at least, have ever been much deeper than at present. The outlet valley is largely constructional and while there has been erosion, considerable in the vicinity of Milford, still erosion has not in time past much affected the level of the lakes, does not at the i^resent day seem to affect them at all. Those familiar with the situation for the last four or five decades assert that Spirit Lake had formerly a natural outlet south- ward. There is no sign of it at present. On the other hand the out-thrust of the ice from winter to winter has tended to form a species of dyke almost entirely around the lake, espec- iallv aloni>' its sandv beaches, and this alone would seem to have been suiiicient to close up any connection, slight and shallow at best, between Spirit Lake and the waters south of it. At any rate there is along the south shore of Spirit Lake a pronounced terrace, which is natural and due to the causes mentioned. There are, however, evidences, chiefly afforded by terrace construction, that the water level in the lake has 1)een higher in days gone by than now, perhaps ten feet higher. In such event there would be an overflow southward. Probal)ly the level of the lake has oscillated through the centuries. With a succession of dry seasons the water would become so reduced that out-flow would cease entirely. The sand pushed up in winter by the ice would then form a dam higher and higher and which at length only a very considerable rise in the waters of the lake could surmount. Then probably some exceptionally rainy season would wash out the obstacle and again reduce the level of the lake, making possible again the construction of the dyke. In the maintenance of the barrier vegetation very much assisted. Today various aquatic plants hold the shallower parts of all the lakes in possession undisputed and greatly check the movements of their waters. In fact by reason of abundant vegetation many of the smaller lakes are now in danger of being completely filled. The plants, many of them rooted to the bottom, at once absolutely prevent erosion, and at the same time hold all solid matter coming in from what- ever source from without. For this reason the general outlet of the system, the south end of the south Gar Lake, is not deepening, but seems to be actually rising year by year. But it is time we should describe the lakes more in detail.
"Minne Waukon or Spirit Lake, the largest body of water in Iowa, occupies the greater part of the township of the same name. Its extreme length from north to south is a little more
12 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
VIEW ON SPIRIT LAKE.
than four miles, in Iowa. The extreme width is about the same, but owing to irreguhiritv of contour the area is not more than ten square miles, while the circumference is nearly six- teen. The depth of the lake is said to be thirty feet ; the bot- tom, so far as can be learned, is almost even, so that from the deepest part to the shores the diminution in depth is remark- ably gradual. The shores are for the most part comparatively low, the water-line sandy, affording unlimited beach. Hard by on the west lie Marble Lake, Hottes Lake, and Little Spirit Lake, separated by only the shortest distance from the main body of water, but draining one into the other and north — at lengtlii, however, tributary to Spirit Lake. Those interested have in recent years cut a channel to bring Little Spirit Lake and its congeners into more direct communication with the larger water, apparently with small success. In dry years no lake has anything to spare. Strangest of all, in the middle of the series, in the south half of section 17, lies Sunken Lake, distant from Spirit Lake only a few rods, and parted from it by a wall of drift some twenty or thirty feet high and at its summit scarcely a rod in width. So abrupt are the shores and so peculiar the situation that common rumor asserts the lake a matter of recent formation ; some people even declare that so lately as twenty years ,ago trees stood where now the water is ten feet deep. The name Sunken Lake records the popular
SPIRIT LAKE
13
estimate and explanation of the remarkable phenomenon. It seems probable, however, that Sunken Lake is as old as any of the others, and while a most remarkable bit of topography, sufficiently wonderful to demand, even peremptorily demand, an explanation, yet is it quite in harmony wdth its entire sur- roundings, and not without parallel in many only less con- spicuous cases. For instance, on the east side of East Okoboji Lake, in the southwest quarter of Section 15, Center Grove town- ship, there are two small lakes even nearer the principal lake than in the case we have just considered and similarly walled off from the greater body of water by a pile of drift. Similar situations on a small scale may be pointed out in every part of Dickinson County. The only explanation is the uneven- ness of the lower surface of the ice-sheet which rested here^ advanced no further, and as it melted retreating even farther and fartlier northward, }eft behind, perchance as blocks of ice, these pools of clear, fresh water. Sunken Lake may then
DRIVE BETWEEN SPIRIT LAKE AND SUNKEN LAKE.
14
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
|
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WEST OKOBOJI.
represent an ice bowlder ; this seems more probable since its walls are steep, Unbroken on every side.
"South of Spirit T^ake lies Okoboji, in its two sections stretching somewhat in the form of the letter U, open to the north, partly in Center Grove, partly in Lakeville township. West Okoboji, which represents the western side of the U, lies almost M'holly in l^akeville. This is! by many estimated the most beautifnl water in tlie series. Its greater depth, more picturesque winding shores give it some advantage over Minne Waukon, althougli the latter shows the greater expanse of water. West Okoboji Lake, or simply Okoboji, as it is com- monly called, extends nearly six miles in greatest length and .almost three at the point of greatest breadth. The greater jiortion of the lake is, however, narrower, so that the total area does not exceed seven square miles, while its irregular con- tour measures nearly eighteen miles, as platted. The depth of the lake varies very much at different places and is variously reported. The bed of the lake probably resembles the topog- raphy of the adjacent country; it has its hills and its valleys.
LAKE OKOBOJI
15
There seems no reason to doubt that there are many places where the depth is at least one hundred feet, but soundings of two or three times that depth are reported.*
"The shores of Okoboji are for the most part high walls of bowlder-cday and drift ; sandy beaches are less frecpient. Every- where the erosion of the waves has shaped the shores, under- mining them and sorting their materials; the fine clays have been carried 'out to sea,' while the weighty bowlders are left behind every winter to be pushed up closer and closer by the ice, at length piled over one another in ramparts and walls, often riprapping the shore for long distances as if to simulate the work of civilized man. A beautiful illustration of this is seen along the southern shore of Lake East Okoboji, section 20. The less attentive observer would surely conclude that those stones were piled up by 'art and man's device,' a sea- wall to prevent further encroachments of the tide. At the southern end of Okoboji, near Gilley's Beach, is another fine
*These particulars are from the reports of fishermen and boatmen about the lake.
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NATURAL RIPRAPPING ON WEST OKOBOJI.
16
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
MINNE WASHTA.
display of bowlders, notable not so much perhaps for their position as for their variety and beauty. Here are bowlders of limestone, bowlders of granite of every sort, porphyry, sye- nite, trap, greenstone!, quartzite, what you will, the debris of all northern ledges. Similar deposits are visible all around the lake, more especially on the eastern side, probably because the prevailing winds being westerly, the waves Kave exerted their more constant energy along the eastern bluffs."
His descriptions of East Okoboji, Minnie Washta, Center Lake and Gar Lakes are equally fine, but must be excluded for lack of space. In conclusion he says : "These lakes taken alto- gether form one of the attractions of Iowa. Their jireserva- tion in their pristine beauty is a matter of more than local interest."
Originally what now comprises the state of Iowa was occu- pied by several different tribes of Indians. These several tribes were descended from one or the other of two parent races, viz. : the Algonquins and the Dacotahs. The Algonquins were the most numeroiis and powerful of the native races. They originally occupied the valley of the St. Lawrence River from whence their migrations were gradually westward to the
INDIANS OF IOWA 17
Great Lakes, and eventually to the Mississippi and even beyond. They were divided into a large number of tribes hav- ing their saparate interests, but speaking a common langiiage and owning a common ancestry.
The Algonquin tribe which figured the most prominently in tlie history of Iowa were the Sacs and Foxes. These were orig- inally two different tribes, but Indian history informs us that tliey were united about the year 1712 and moved towards the Mississippi River. The names Sacs and Foxes were given them by the whites. The Indian name of the Sacs was the "Outa- gamies" and that of the Foxes was the "Musquawkies." Very little is known of them for the first hundred years after they moved to the Mississippi. When Lieutenant Pike, in 1805. made his first voyage of discovery up the river he saw a great deal of them and learned considerable about them. He esti- mated their number at that time to be not far from five thous- and. Judge Fulton says that "According to a communica- tion submitted to Congress by President Monroe, in relation to the Indians, in 1825, the Sacs and Foxes were estimated at six thousand four hundred, more than one-half of whom resided west of the Mississippi." They were the hereditary enemies of the Sioux, who were a native tribe which the Sacs and Foxes strove in vain to dispossess. They had previously conquered and driven out the lowas and taken possession of their country. They had also been successful in their wars with other tribes, but they met more than their match in the fierce and ter- rible Sioux, and were in a fair way to be finally overcome by them when the United States authorities interfered and endeav- ored to put a stop to the hostilities, in which they were but par- tially successful. The most prominent chief of this tribe known to the whites was the renowned "Black Hawk." Other chiefs of prominence were Pashepaho, Keokuk, Appanoose, Poweshiek, Wapello, Kishkekosh and many others. Judge
18 DICKINSON COtTNTY - IOWA
riilton gives a list of one hundred and fifty-^seven names of members of this tribe copied from the daybook of one of the old traders. In 1845 and 1840 they were removed to a reser- vation in Kansas. A sliort time later a '^lingering remnant" of the tribe, becoming dissatisfied witli their Kansas homo, wandered back to their old haunts on the Iowa River, where they were allowed to gain a foothold and follow the free and easy life of their ancestors in the midst of a progressive and highl}^ civilized community. They have readopted their ancient name and are now known to their white neighbors as "Mus- quawkies."
Another of the Algonquin tribes, which at one time had a home in Iowa, was the Pottawattamies. When they ceded their lands east of the Mississippi in 1833, they were placed on a reservation near Council Bluffs, where they remained until 1846, when another treaty was concluded with them by which they disposed of their land in Iowa and moved west of the Missouri. As with the Sacs and Foxes so wath them after be- ing on their reservation for a short time a few homesick strag- glers under the lead of the well known Johnnie Green, wan- dered back to their old haunts in central Iowa, wli.ere they fished, hunted and strolled about undisturbed by their white neighbors until they passed out by life limitation or were merged with the Musquawkies.
The mini, or Illinois, as they afterward came to be called, were a powerful confederacy made up of five distinct tribes of Algonquins, and at the close of the Seventeenth Century inhab- ited central Illinois and southern Iowa. It was members of this tribe that Father Marquette came in contact with on his memorable voyage down the Mississij^pi in 1673. Historical accounts relate that he made the entire trip from the Fox Eiver in Wisconsin to the point where he discovered "the foot- prints in the sand" near the mouth of the Des Moines River
THE ALGONQUIN TRIBES 19
in Iowa without encountering a single native. After landing he followed the trail inland to an Indian village, and found to his great delight that the savages there spoke the same lan- guage as those he had left on the shore of Green Bay. Later on this powerful confederacy hecame much reduced l)y a san- guinary war with the Iroquois, and by the time of the Louis- iana Purchase in 1803 were either exterminated or had joined other tribes and so had passed out of existence as a distinct nation.
Another strong tribe of the same race inhabiting the state of Iowa at the time of the French explorations, but which became extinct before the time of the Louisiana Purchase, were the Muscatines, or Mascoutins, as they were then called. But little is known of this tribe, although there is abundant proof of their once having occupied both sides of the Missis- sippi near where the city of Muscatine now stands. Judge Fulton closes a chapter regarding them, as follows : ''Having left the last traces of their existence on what is now Iowa soil we have perpetuated the memory of this vanished people by enrolling the appellation Muscatine in our Indian geographical nomenclature."
It would seem that a careful study of the history of the different tribes about this period would cause many people to revise their preconceived notions of the rights and wrongs of the American Indians. According to the most relialde esti- mates there were originall}' not far from half a million natives scattered through the territory of what is now the United States. The theory that this vast empire, capable of supporting its hundreds of millions of population, should have been pre- served in its native wildness for the gratification of the savage instincts and propensities of these few thousand war- riors is. at least debatable if not wholly untenable. The main occupation of these tribes was war among themselves. Upon
20 • DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the least provocation and on the flimsiest pretext they rushed into the most deadly and destructive warfare with each other. They fought for the love of fig'hting. Entire tribes were exterminated and others greatly diminished. There is every reason to believe that the numbel" of native inhabitants was largely diminished during the last half of the Seventeenth and the first half of the Eighteenth Centuries h\ reason of this bitter, unrelenting warfare. The number of Indians who have fallen first and last in the various actions with the whites is wholly insignificant when compared with the numbers slain in wars among themselves. Of course there have been many instances of dishonest v and bad faith in dealing with the Indians, but that doesn't change the main proposition that in the nature of things it was never intended that this vast con- tinent should 1)0 shut oft' from civilization in order that a few tribes of blood-thirsty savages should be undisturbed in their favorite diversion of waging relentless warfare against each other.
The Dacotah tribes figuring in Iowa history are the Omahas, the lowas, the Winnebagos and the Sioux. It is doubtful whether the Omahas ever had a permanent residence on Iowa soil, but they frequently visited the state and were closely con- nected with the lowas, who were of the same race and spoke the same language. Judge Fulton, in writing of the lowas, uses the following language : "The lowas were once a strong and powerful tribe and were able under their brave and warlike chiefs to maintain successful warfare against their enemies. Their later seat of empire was in the Des Moines Valley. Their principal village was situated on the Des Moines River near the northwest corner of Van Buren County, where the old trading post of lowaville was subsequently located. That spot may be regarded as historic ground, for there transpired events in the annals of savage warfare which transferred the
THE DACOTAH TRIBES 21
sovereignty of the Des Moines Valley from the lowas to the Sacs and Foxes." The decisive battle in which the lowas were so siffnallv defeated bv the Sacs and Foxes occurred some time between 1820 and 1825. During the latter year the govern- ment purchased their undivided interest in the country, what- ever it might have been, and they were placed under govern- ment protection and settled on a reservation l>eyond the Mis- souri River. The only prominent chief of this tribe wliose name has been perpetuated in Iowa is Mahaska.
Another Dacotah tribe at one time residing in Iowa were the Winnebagos. This tribe when first known were located west of Lake Michigan near Green Bay. Their history is a checkered one which cannot be repeated here. After the Black Hawk War they were removed from Wisconsin to the "ISTeutral Ground" in Iowa, where they remained until 1846 when they were again removed to a reservation in Minnesota near Mankato. They remained there until after the Sioux outbreak in 1802 when they were sent to a reservation on the Missouri in South Dakota. Of their chiefs those who h-ave been remembered by the people of Iowa are Winneshiek, Waukon Decorah, and One Eyed Decorah. It was the latter who delivered Black Hawk a prisoner to the United States Indian Agent at Prairie du Chien at the close of the Black Hawk War.
The main branch of the Dacotah race are called Sioux. Many persons consider the terms Sioux and Dacotah as apply- ing to the same people. This is not strictly true, since several of the Dacotah tribes, as the lowas and Winnebagos, and some others, have never been called Sioux. Still no great confusion of ideas can arise from using the terms as interchangeable. While the term Dacotah is the . more comprehensive of the two, the term Sioux is the best known and the one with which the people are most familiar. These Indians originally occu-
22 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
pied the western part of AVisconsin, the northern part of Iowa, the greater part of .Minnesota, the whole of X(n'th and Sonth Dakota, and much of tlie country west to the Rocky Moun- tains. The tirst well authenticated meeting of the whites with the Dacotahs was in 1662, l)nt for neafly fifty years previous to that time fabulous stories had reached the French on the St. Lawrence River of a wonderful i)eople who dwelt far to the westwai'd and who sjxike a dift'i'rent language from any with which they were acquainted. These mysterious reports made such an impression on the mind of Champlain, the Governor of -Xew France, that he determined to investigate. Accordingly in 16o4 he induced Jean Xicollet to undertake a journey of exploration in the region beyond what had then been discovered. Xicollct's account of his journey reads like a fairy tale, but he did not succeed in reaching the SicMix on that trip. A very interesting paper by Hon. Irving B. Rich- man, entitled, "First ^Meeting with Dacotahs," says: ''The first meeting of the Dacotah Indians by white men took place at a spot not so remote from the hike regions of Iowa. In 1662 the French travelers, Radison and Grosseliers, liehl a council with a large comi^any of the Dacotahs near the Mille Lacs, in what is now the state of Minnesota. They were even then a famous and dreaded nation. Says Radison in his quaint and Gallic way: 'They were so much respected that nobody durst not offend them.' "
Eighteen years later or in 1680, the Mississippi River hav- ing been discovered in the meantime, Father Hennepin was sent out by La Salle to explore the upper regions of it. Judge Fulton, in his introduction to a chapter on the Sioux, uses this language: ''It was in 1680 that Father Hennepin and his two companions, Michael xVko and Anthony Anguella, were sent fi'oni Fort Crevecoiir, near Lake Peoria, by the renowned La Salle on their mission of discovery to the u]iper Mississippi.
THE SIOUX 23
The tribes thev found inhabitine" the country now embraced in northern Iowa and the state of Minnesota were those belonging to the great Dacotah group or nation. 'While en- camped on the banks of the Mississippi they were taken pris- oners by .a band of Sioux warriors, and remained with them in their wanderings over the vast prairies and among the lakes of that region from April until September, having dur- ing that time been joined by that other intrepid French adven- turer, Duluth. These were the first Europeans who met the people that occupied and roamed over the ])rairies of northern Iowa, or kindled their campfires about the headwaters of the Des Moines and on the borders of our beautiful lakes two hundred years ago."
The numerical strength of the Dacotahs was then estimated at about forty thousand and does not vary a great deal from that at the present time. The nation was divided into a large number of tribes and these tribes were again subdivided into numberless clans or bands, each under its petty chief or leader, who roamed over the prairies far and wide, living on game and fish and the spontaneous production of the soil. They lived mainly in rude tents called "tepees" and roamed about as in- clination dictated. They had favorite haunts Avhich they vis- ited at stated periods and which were regarded by them as headquarters, where different bands would rendezvous for a while and then scatter again over the prairies and their places be occupied by other bands. Judge Fulton, in his "Red Men of Iowa," says : "At the time of the celebrated voyage of ex- jdoration made by Lewis and Clarke in 1804 up the Missouri River, the band or tribe of the Great Sioux nation, known as Yanktons, lived on the upper Des Moines and Little Sioux Rivers and the region about Spirit Lake." But little reliable information can be obtained calculated to throw light upon the history of the diiferent bands that occupied this country
24 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
previous to its purchase and settlement by the whites. Author- ities seem to agree, however, that a band of Yankton-Sioux, known as the Wahpekutahs, occupied the country of northern Iowa and southern Minnesota during the earlier part of the present century, l^orth of these in Miiinesota were three other tribes of Sioux for whom agencies were subsequently estab- lished on the Minnesota River, Avliich will be noticed more in detail further on.
The Sioux were the deadly enemies of the Sacs and Foxes, the Wahjiekutahs lieing the most active in their hostilities and the most implacable in their hatred of their soilthern neigh- bors. So sanguinary was the warfare waged by the contending tribes that the United States government, in 1825, decided to interfere and if ])ossible put a stop to it. By a treaty, bearing date August lU, 1825, a boundary was established between the Sioux on the north and the Sacs and Foxes on the south, as follows : Commencing at the mouth of the upper Iowa River on the west bank of the Mississippi and ascending the said Iowa River to its west fork, thence up the fork to its source, thence crossing the fork of the Red Cedar River in a direct line to the Calumet or Big Sioux River, and down to its junction with the Missouri River.
This action of the government only made matters worse, each party claiming that the other had trespassed by cross- ing over the line, and hostilities waged hotter tlian ever until in 1830, when the government interfered a second time and finally succeeded in negotiating a second treaty, whereby the several tribes ceded to the United States a strip of land twentv miles wide on each side of the former line, thus throwino- the combatants forty miles apart. This strip Avas known as the "I^eutral Ground." Many persons at the present time use the term without knowing its meaning. This scheme mended matters some but did not wholly prevent hostilities, which were
THE NEUTRAL GROUND 25
kept lip to a greater or less extent until 1845, when the Sacs and Foxes were removed from the state.
The last hostile meeting between the Sioux and the Sacs and Foxes was in Kossuth County, in April, 1852, between two straggling bands, both of whom at that time were trespassers and had no legal right on Iowa soil. This action possesses a dramatic interest out of all proportion to its impor- tance as a historical event, from the fact that it was lilere that the "lingering remnants of two great nations wlio had for more than two hundred years waged unrelenting warfare against each other had their last and final struggle." The number engaged was about seventy on a side, and the result was a com- plete victory for the Sacs and Foxes.
At the same time of the treaty respecting the I^eutral Ground, July 15, 1830, another treaty was negotiated by which the Sacs and Foxes, Western Sioux, Omahas, lowas and Mis- souris united in conveying to the United States the portion of the western slope of Iowa described as follows : Beginning at the upper fork of the Des Moines River and passing the sources of the Little Sioux and Floyd "Elivers to the fork of the first creek that falls into the Big Sioux or Calumet River on the east side, thence down said creek and the Calumet to the Missouri River, thence down said Missouri River to the Missouri state line above the Kansas River, thence along said line to the high- lands between the waters falling into the Missouri and the Des Moines, passing to said highlands along the dividing ridge between the forks of the Grand River, thence along said high- lands or ridge separating the waters of the Missouri from the Des Moines to a point opposite the source of the Boyer River, thence in a direct line to the upper fork of the Des Moines, the place of beginning.
By the terms of this treaty the United States agreed to pay to the Sacs and Foxes three thousand dollars each; to the
26 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Sioux, two thousand dollars ; to the Yankton and Santee bands of Sioux, three thousand dollars; to the Omahas, two thousand five hundred dollars ; and to the Otoe and Missouris, two thou- sand five hundred dollars, to be paid annually for ten successive years. In addition to , these annuities the United States agreed to provide other advantages for some of the tribes joining in the treaty. This treaty w^as made by William Clark, Superintendent of Indian Affairs ; and Col. Willoughby Morgan, of the United States First Infantry. It went into effect by proclamation February 24, 1831. So much for the treaty by which the territory of western Iowa passed from the jurisdiction of the Indians to the government of the United States.
CKAPTEK II.
TREATY OF 1851 MINNESOTA RESEKVATION
UPPER AND LOWER AGENCIES THE WAHPEKUTAH
SIOUX WAMBISAPPI AND THE OUTLAW BAND
LEAVE THE MAIN TRIBE AT WAMDISAPPl's
DEATH SIDOMINADOTAH BECOMES CHIEF HAS
TROUBLE WITH LOTT NEAR MOUTH OF BOONE
RIVER LOTT MURDERS THE CHIEf's ENTIRE
FAMILY SOME EXTRACTS FROM HARVEY ING-
HAM's "scraps of early history" INKPADU-
TAH BECOMES CHIEF STRAINED RELATIONS BE- TWEEN HIS BAND AND THE SETTLERS.
N" 1851 another treaty was made with the Sioux by the provisions of which they agreed to relinquish to the United States their remaining title to all land in the state of Iowa, and also their title to all lands in Minnesota, ex- cept what constituted their reservation. A careful examina- tion of the terms of this treaty and the preceding ones would seem to justify the conclusion that, so far as Iowa is concerned, this treaty was intendbd to l>e somewhat of the nature of a quit- claim deed given for the purpose of healing defects in a for- mer conveyance. As before stated, there were four bands of these Sioux and they had their reservation on the Minnesota lliver. It was composed of a strip of land ten miles wide on each side of the river and extending from a short distance below Fort Ridgley to the source of that river. There were two agencies known as the Upper and Lower Agencies. The Lower Agency was located on the Minnesota River about five mile? below the Redwood River and thirteen miles above Fort Ridg- ley, and the Upper Agency on the Yellow Medicine River,
28 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
about three miles from its mouth. Two bands received their annuities at the Lower and two at the Upper Agency.
The Wahpekutahs, the band Avith which the history of this county is most closely identified, had their headquarters at the Lower Agency and ^Vere therefore known as Lower Sioux. Prominent among their chiefs was one Wamdisappi, or Black Eagle. He and his immediate followers were savages of such ferocity and were so quarrelsome and revengeful that they could not live at peace even with the members of their own tribe. It was largely through their intrigues and restlessness that the war with the Sacs and Foxes was kept up as long as it was, and after their removal these turbulent savages turned their attention to working up quarrels and dissensions in their own band. These quarrels finally culminated in Wamdisappi and the more turbulent of his followers leaving the main body and striking westward across the Big Sioux and establishing them- selves on the Vermilion River, in what is now South Dakota^ from which point they roamed over the country far and wide, often going as far south as the mouth of the Boone River and as far east as the Cedar and bevond. In writing of this band. Judge Flandrau has this to say of them: '^'So thoroughly were they separated from the rest of the JWahpekutahs that when the last named Indians, together with the M'daywakautons, made their treaty at Mendota in 1851, by which they ceded the lands in Minnesota owned by them, the remnant of Wamdisappi's peoj^le were not regarded as being a part of the Wahj)^'^^^^^^^^ at all and took no part in the treaty." The numerical strength of Wamdisappi's band has been variously estimated, some placing it as high as five hundred and others as low as one hun- dred and fifty. Doubtless the reason for this discrepancy is that there were a large number of Indians who would at times associate themselves with the outlaws in their predatory excur- sions, and then as the time for the payment of the annuities
LOTT AND SIDOMINADOTAH 29
approached would unite themselves with the Agency Indians for the purpose of sharing in the annuities.
Among the followers of Wamdisappi was a chief known as Sidominadotah, or ''Two Fingers," who eventually became leader of the band. While his headquarters were on the Ver- milion, his favorite haunts were in the neighborhood of the lakes and along the Des Moines and Little Sioux Kivers. They were known as far east as Prairie du Chien and as far south and southwest as Council Bluffs, and \v«re universally regarded as a bad lot. Many and varied were the difficulties with the early settlers all along the frontier line. These difficulties v/ere the source of a vast deal of annoyance, anxiety and appre- hension on the part of the settlers.
Among others -who had. received indignities from this band Avas one Henry Lott, whom Judge Fulton characterizes as ".i rough, unscrupulous border character," Avho in 1846 settled near the mouth of Boone River in Webster County. His chief occupation seems to have been selling poor whisky to the In- dians. He was also accused of stealing horses, as in 1848 some horses stolen from the Indians were traced to his cabin. Other lawless acts were also charged to him. This so irritated and enrae-ed the savages that thev determined to drive him out of the country. It would be well to remember here that this was not on Sioux territorv at all, but was south of the ISTeutral Ground, on land but recently vacated b}'' the Sacs and Foxes. Lott was soon waited on by the chief and a party of his men and informed that he was regarded as an intruder and given a certain number of days in which to leave their hunting grounds. The Indians now went away, but Lott did not see proper to leave. At the expiration of the appointed time the Indians returned, and, finding Lott still there, commenced to destroy his property. They shot his horses and cattle, robbed his bee hives, threatened his familv and drove him and his
7 t.'
30 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
step-son from home, carrying things with a high hand generally. After Lott and his step-son had left the honse, a younger boy, Milton Lott, a lad of about twelve years of age, attempted to follow them. It was in December. The night was intensely cold, and after following them for some liiiles the boy became exhausted and froze to death. This embittered Lott .against the Indians to an intense degree. After a short time he re- tarned to the old place and remained there until after the death of his wife, which occurred a few years later, after which he changed his location, and in 185-3 he and his step-son settled at Lott's Creek, on the east branch of the Des Moines Eiver, in Humboldt County. They had l)een established there but a short time when Sirlominadotah and bis family of nine per- sons pitched their camp a short distance l)elow on the other side of the river.
Burning with the desire to avenge the injuries they had re- ceived from this chief and his l)and five years before at the mouth of the Boone River, they conceived the diabolical plot of destroying the entire party. To accomplish this they went to the chief's lodge and reported that they had seen a herd of elk feeding on the bottom, and asked him to go with them and try to get one. He, suspecting nothing, prepared at once to accompany them. When some dis- tance from the chief's lodge they shot him dead on the spot. After nightfall they returned to his lodge and murdered the balance of the family, including the aged mother of the chief, except two children, one a girl about ten years of age and a boy still older. The little girl had concealed herself in some bushes, and the boy they had left for dead on the ground, but he recovered. This boy was afterward known to the frontier settlers as ''Indian Josh," and lived some time with a family, on the west fork of the Des Moines in Palo Alto County, by the name of Carter. After finishing their terrible work, Lott
MILITARY POSTS 31
and his step-son loaded what they could of their portables into a wagon and the balance they piled up in their cabin and set it on fire, then hitching their mules to the wagon they left the place. Following down the divide between the Des Moines and Boone Rivers, they continued their course in a southerly direction until they struck the great overland trail to Cali- fornia, which was then thronged with emigrants. Joining a party of these, they crossed the plains to California, where it is said Lott was shortly afterwards killed in a quarrel. The murder of the chief was not discovered for two weeks, and it was later still before it was known the Lotts w^ere the guilty parties, and they Avere so far on their way by that time that no pursuit was attempted.
Inasmuch as everything calculated to throw light upon the relations existing between the settlers and the Sioux, during this interesting period, becomes more valuable as the difficulty in the way of securing correct information increases, the fol- lowing extracts from Harvey Ingham's ''Scraps of Early His- tory," published in the Upper Des Moines, will be read with interest :
"Fort Dodge was established as the frontier outpost of northern Iowa in 1850, just four years .after Fort Des Moines was abandoned. Fort Des Moines was located in 1843 and occupied by troops until 1846, the years during which the Sacs and Foxes were being removed from the state. Between the occupancy of the two forts the Sioux came prominently into notice, driving out every white man who attempted to push into their territory and trying to stem the tide of emigration to the Northwest. The event which, more than any other, led to the establishment of the fort, was old Sidominadotah's attack upon Marsh, a goverument surveyor, in 1848. Sidominadotah is one of the conspicuous figures in our pioneer history. He was a brother of Inkpadutah and leader of a band of Wahpe- kutah outlaws. He was commonly called Chief Two Fingers, having lost the remainder of his right hand in battle. Major Williams knew him well and has left an accurate description
32 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
of him. He sajs : 'Sidominadotab was a man about five feet ten in heigbt, stout and well formed, very active, bad a pierc- ing black eye, broad face and bigli clioek bones.' The major adds an item to the description which certainly entitles Sido- minadotah to be called the man with the iron jaw: 'Both rows of teeth were double all around in l»oth j-aws.' A dentist could •have paid off all of the old scores of the white race at one sit- ting;. When killed he was fortv-five or fiftv vears of age. He evidently was the leader of all the bands of the northern Sioux at that time, or, at least, held a prominent place among the leaders, for nearly all the attacks upon the whites who began to invade the territory north and west of Des Moines were led by him."
Here follows the detailed acccnint of the attack on the sur- veying party when their instruments w^ere destroyed, their sup- plies taken from them and they were obliged to abandon theii work. Mr. Ingham's account continues :
''Marsh made a report to the government which, taken in connection with reports of other outrages, caused the order to bring troops into the jSTorthwest. * * * Brigadier Gen- eral Mason was ordered in 1849 to locate the new fort as nearly as possible to the northwest corner of the Xeutral Ground. He chose the site where the city of Fort Dodge now stands and named the new post Fort Clarke. In 1851 General Winfield Scott changed the name to Fort Dodge, in honor of General Henry Dodge." (Another reason for the change of name was that there was another Fort Clarke in the southwest, and a great deal of annoyance Avas occasioned by supplies that were intended for one going wrong and eventually reaching the other.) "Com- pany E of the Sixth Infantry, IT. S. A., came from Fort Snell- ing to occupy it. Witli this company Major Williams came as sutler. When the pioneer history of northwestern Iowa is written, IVIajor Williams wall be the central figure. He was part of all that happened in the early years. * * * AVhen after three years and a half Fort Dodge was abandoned and the troops were ordered north to build Fort Ridgley, he remained, and buying the ground and Imildings of the dismantled forti- fications, founded the city which perpetuates its name. Fort Dodge was then nnd aftei'wards the central point in the upper
SCRAPS OF EARLY HISTORY 33
Des Moines region. Major Williams was associated intimately with all the stirring events along the entire frontier. * * *
''During the years of occupancy of the fort, Major Williams became acquainted with the various Sioux bands and their lead- ers. He has left very interesting descriptions of the latter. His estimate of the character of the outfit tallies with that before given of the Wahpekutahs. 'The Sioux Indians/ he says, 'who inhaljited this district of country, were the most desperate characters, made up of renegades from all the bands.' They were generally very active, stout Indians, and great horsemen. The majority of them were well armed with guns. They always had in their posses- sion horses and mules with white men's brands. They gener- ally encamped on high ground where they could not be easily surprised, and when any number of them were together, they encamped in a circle. They were very expert hunters. Their famous leaders, Sidominadotah and Inkpadutah, w^ere very stout, active men, also Titonka and Umpashota ; in fact, all of tliem. Of Inkpadutah, who led in the Spirit Lake Massacre, and wdio was present in person at the raid on Mr. Call and the settlers south of Algona in 1855, he says: 'Inkpadutah was about, fifty-five years old, .about five feet eleven inches iji height, stoutly built, broad shouldered, high cheek bones, sunken and very black sparkling eyes, big mouth, light copper color and pockmarked in the face.'
"Umpashota is of scarcely less interest, as he is the Indian who visited with W. II. Ingham three days on the upper Des ]\roiiies when each one was figuring on who was in charge of the expedition, and his name is also associated with the legend of Spirit Lake."
Here follows a description of Umpashota (Smoky Day), also of Titonka, or Big Buffalo, and Ishtahaba, or Young Sleepy Eye :
"Besides these there were Cosomeneh, dark, silent, stealthy ; Wahkonsa, Umpashota's son, a dude, painting his cheeks, forehead and chin with stars ; Modocaquemon, Inkpadutah's oldest son, who was shot for his part in the Spirit Lake Mas- sacre, with low forehead, scowling face and thick lips ; Moco- poco, Inkpadutah's second son, sullen and ill-favored. * * * The soldiers were ordered to leave the fort in September, 1853.
34 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
■^ * * It was after the abandonment of the fort that tlie outrages most intimately associated with our early history v/ere perpetrated. Of these, by far the most important in its after effects was the murder of Sidominadotah and his family by Henry Lott, at Bloody Run, in Humboldt County, in Janu- ary, 1854. Major Williams records one^ fact in connection with the Sioux that is very singular. In all the raids made by them a very large negro was a prominent participant. Tlie soldiers tried often to capture him, but failed. He was one of the boldest and most reckless of the savages in every outrage that was perpetrated in these years."
j->
More space has been given the foregoing extracts than was at first intended, but really reliable information is so difficult to obtain that it was deemed best to use what was available.
Upon the death of Sidominadotah, his brother, Inkpadutah, sometimes known as Scarlet Point or Red End, became chief of tlie band. This chief was known to be bold, reckless, cruel and bloodthirsty, and it is not difficult to imagine the effect such a tragedy as the one heretofore related would have u])ou a character such as he. It is a well known characteristic of all the aboriginal tribes that if they cannot takfe their revenge on the party from whom they received their injuries, they are ready to wreak their vengeance upon the first party they come in contact with, no matter how innocent. Many an honest and industrious frontiersman has had to pay with his life for the wrong done by some reckless, worthless, unscrupulous, border character just out of pure wan- tonness. It is the same old story so often repeated in our fron- tier history. In view of the condition of affairs just related, the relations between this band of Indians and the settlers will be readily understood to be anything but cordial. It is but natural to presume that the arrogant and imperious character of Inkpadutah drove many of the more peaceably inclined Indians out of his band. It is possible, too, that the prospect of being deprived of their annuities sent a great number of this
UNFRIENDLY RELATIONS 35
band back to the main tribe. At an}^ rate the numerical strength of the band became rapidly depleted. 'What had been a tribe of respectable strength was soon reduced to a few fami- lies of stragglers. The strength of the band, after the death of Sidominadotah, has been variously estimated at from fifty to one hundred and fifty. In 1856 it dwindled down below the lowest figure.
Judge Flandrau, who was Indian xigent at that time, says of them: "By 1857 all that remained of Wamdisappi's band was under the chieftainship of Inkpadutah, or Scarlet Point, sometimes called Red End. In August, 1850, I received the appointment of United States Indian Agent for the Sioux of the Mississippi. The agencies for these Indians were on the Minnesota River at Redwood and on the Yellow Medicine River a few miles from its mouth. Having been on the frontier sometime previous to such appointment, I had become quite familiar with the Sioux and knew in a general way of Inkpa- dutah and his band, its habits and whereabouts. They ranged the country far and wide and were considered a bad lot of vagabonds. In 1856 they came to the payment and demanded a share of the money of the Wahpekutahs, and made a great deal of trouble, but were forced to return to their haunts on the Big Sioux and adjoining country. To this Mrs. Sharp adds : 'According to the most authentic testimony collected by Major Prichette, Inkpadutah came to the Sioux Agency in the fall of 1855 and received annuities for eleven persons, although he was not identified witli any band.' "
It may seem singular to some that in preparing a history of Dickinson County so much time and space should be given to people and events wholly outside of the county. It may also seem that too much space has been given in endeavoring to set forth who Inkpadutah and his band were, their relations to the Agency Indians, also the strained relations between them
36 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
and the settlers, and the cause thereof. This may he true, but it is the experience of the writer that many of the tourists who visit the lakes from \eRr to vear are entirely ignorant of the facts in the matter and. are also desirous of correct infor- mation on all of these points, and more* questions are asked first and last involving a knowledge of them than any others. Many have expressed surprise that more has not been preserved, and that more is not known of the personal char- acter and personal history of individual Indians who in an early day made these lakes their favorite rendezvous. This is accounted for in the strained and unfriendlv relations existinar between tJie settlers and the Sioux. The fraternal rela- tions which so long existed between the Sacs and Foxes on the one side and rhe pioneer settlers of eastern and central Iowa on the other, were entirely wanting on the northwestern frontier, and consequently very little is or can be known of the individual Indians who pitched their tepees in the groves, fished in the lakes and hunted on tlie prairies of northwestern Iowa. However, some enterprising real estate and hotel men have recently endeavored to supply this lack of real knowledge on these points by fictitious inventions of their own. Of ^ate a great many questions are asked about Okoboji. Who was he? AVhere were the headquarters of his band ( How many war- riors were amouff his followers ? and a thousand and one other questions which nobody but inquisitive summer tourists would think of.
A large mound on the west side of the lake has been ])ointe(l out to the credulous and unsuspecting summer resorter as being the last resting place of the great chief, or, in other words, as the srrave of Okoboji. Andiitious correspondents of the Capital City papers have, at different times, tried their hands at Avriting up glowing accounts of their visits to the grave of the mythical chief, and many doubtless believe that the
/
INKPADUTAH AND HIS BAND 37
•
representations niade to them are true, and that the lake was actually named for a brave and powerful warrior who once lived in its groves and was buried in the mound on its western border, where his supposed resting place is pointed out by the obliging guide to the unsophisticated and inquisitive traveler. N^ow this is all pure fiction. There is not one particle of truth in it. So far as can be ascertained, no such chief as Okoboji was ever known to the Sioux, and no such Indian ever lived in the neighborhood of the lakes.
It will be remembered that the death of Sidominadotah occurred in January, 1854, and that the chieftainship fell to Inkpadutah at that time. We know but little of the wander- ings of Inkpadutah's band from then until the fall of 1856. The troubles in the neighborhood of Clear Lake, which finally culminated in what is known as the "Grindstone War," were in the summer of 1854. Harvey Ingham, in an article in the Midland Monthly, has this to say of their movements in 1855: "Major Williams expresses the opinion that but for the rapid influx of settlers an attack would have been made on Fort Dodge in 1855. As it was, Inkpadutah and his followers con- tented themselves with stripping trappers and surveyors, steal- ing horses, and foraging on scattered settlers, always maintain- ing a hostile and threatening attitude. Many pages of the Midland would be required for a brief enumeration of the petty annoyances, pilferings and more serious assaults which oc- curred. At Dakota City, in Humboldt County, the cabin of E. Mclvnight was rifled in the spring of 1855. Further north, within a few miles of Algona, the cabin of Malachi Clark was entered, and the settlers gathered in great alarm to drive out the Indians — a band of eighty braves led by Inkpadutah in person. Still further north, near where Bancroft stands, W. H. Ingham was captured by Umpashota, a leader under Ink-
38 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
pndatah in the massacre, and was held a prisoner for three da vs."
Judge Fulton writes of this same period as follows: ''Dur- ing the same summer (1855) Chief Inkpadutah and his band, comprising about fifty lodges, encamped in the timber near wdiere Algona now stands. They occasionally pillaged the cabins of the white settlers in that vicinity. At last the whites notified them to leave, which they did reluctantly. They returned no more to that vicinity except in small hunting par ties."
CHAPTER III.
DICKINSON COUNTY- — NAME^FIKST EXPLORA- TION FRENCH TEADEES LEWIS AND CLARKE
NICOLLET AND FREMONT THE FAMOUS ASTRO- NOMICAL OBSERVATION THE FIRST ATTEMPT AT
SETTLEMENT IN 1856 SETTLEMENTS IN ADJOIN- ING COUNTIES.
ICKINSON COUNTY was named in honor of Hon. Daniel S. Dickinson, formerly United States Senator from the state of ISTew York. The student of political history will be at no loss to fix the date of the naming of the counties of Iowa, fully fifteen per cent, or about one-sixth, of which were named for prominent men in the councils of the nation about the mid- dle of the ISTineteenth Century. Benton, Buchanan, Calhoun, Cass, Clayton, Dickinson, Polk, Dallas, Wright and Woodbury, together with several others, all smack strongly of the same period, the forties and fifties. How long the country had been known, or what was known of the country at that time, it is difficult to find out. In endeavoring to investigate this subject we are at once brought face to face with the fact that but very little has been written and that very little is known about it. Spirit Lake has been known of for a hundred years_, and how much longer, we don't know. The time when it passes from legend to history is the early part of the N^ineteenth Century. An interesting and instructive paper written by Prof. Charles Keyes for the October, 1898, number of the An- nals of Iowa, in discussing the origin and meaning of the word Des Moines, as applied to the Des Moines River, uses this lan- guage: "At the beginning of the present century the Des
40 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Moines River was one of the principal routes of travel to and from the I**J^orthwest. St. Lonis was the great trading post of the region. The Indian .and French voyageurs paddled their eanoes up-stream, passing through several little lakes near the headwaters and then on to the Hiidson Bay region. This was a waterway practically unobstructed from the northern fur country to the lower Mississippi."
The article which occupies six pages of the Annals of Iowa is illustrated with three maps, the largest one of which was copied from an old map made as early as 1720. This maji shows the Des Moines as much larger than either the Missis- sippi or Missouri, and as having its source in a lake many times larger than the combined .area of all the lakes in Iowa. The question at once arises, Did any of the early travelers in their journeys from the Mississippi Valley to the Saskatchawan country ever go so far to one side of their usual route as to pass through the lake region ? It is more than probable that they did, but if so, when was it done and where is the record ?
The famous Lewis and Clarke expedition up the Missouri River was made in 1804. The Louisiana Purchase was made in 1803, and this expedition was fitted out for the purpose of examining and reporting on the character and resources of the newly acquired possessions. They had for their guide and in- terpreter a Frenchman by the name of M. Durion, who had been much with the Indians and spoke the Dacotah language fluently. He imparted to them a vast deal of information relative to the country adjoining that through which they were passing. This information they made a record of and have given it to the public. While his statements are not strictly accurate in all particulars, they are sufficiently so to convince any person that he had a pretty good general idea of the geog- raphy of the country, whether he had ever seen it or not.
Judge Fulton, in the "Ried Men of Iowa," writing on this
FIRST ACCOUNTS OF THE LAKE REGION 41
subject, says: "Lewis and Clarke's French interpreter described other localities in the country of the Sioux nation now known to be within the boundaries of Iowa, with sufficient accuracy to warrant the conclusion that he had some knowledge of the geography of the country, though not strictly accurate in some respects. He described the Little Sioux as having its source within nine miles of the Des Moines, as passing through a large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference and dividing it into two parts which approach each other very closely, as being very irregular in its width, as having many islands, and as being knov^m by the name of Lac D'Esprit, or Spirit Lake. This lake in the country of the Sioux, from the earliest knowledge of white men the chief seat of one of the Sioux tribes, is novv' known by the name of Spirit Lake and Lake Okoboji." So far as can be ascertained, this is the first and oldest written ac- count of the Spirit Lake region. The region must have been, and doubtless was, frequently visited by hunters, trappers and adventurers during the early part of the century, but they left no written account of their explorations or discoveries. The treaties relative to the "ISTeutral Line" and the "ISTeutral Ground," which were intended to define the boundary between the country of the Sacs and Foxes on the south and the Sioux on the north, were negotiated, the former in 1825 and the latter in 1830, but whether these lines were surveyed or even exam- ined at the time, we are in total ignorance.
The first really authentic account we have of the lake region is that contained' in the official report of the government ex- ploring expedition by the younger ISTicollet. During Van Buren's administration ISTicollet was appointed by the Secretary of War to make a map of the hydrographic basin of the upper Mississippi River. The appointment was made on the 7th day of April, 1838. In the body of his report, speaking of the Lit- tle Sioux, he uses the following language: "It has been here-
42
DICKINSON COUNTY
IOWA
T of ore designated as the Little Sionx, and has its origin from a group of hikes, the most important of wliieh is called bv the Sioux 'Minnie Waukon,' or 'Spirit Water,' hence its name of Spirit Lake." Xicollet makes no mention of the Okobojis, but simply designates the whole grou]) of them by the single name "Spirit Lake." In another ])ortion of the re])()i't tlie following astronomical observation is recorded :
|
Place of observation: Spirit Lake, about the middle of the northern shore. |
Altitude above the Gulf of Mexico |
North Latitude |
Longitude West from Greenwich In Time In Arc |
Authority |
|
13 lo feet |
43O30/2J// |
h m s 6 20 26 |
95° 6^ 30^^ |
Nicollet |
It will be readily seen that the point from which this obser- vation was taken cannot be far from where Crandall's Lodae was afterwards located. It is not at all prol)able that many, if
NORTH SHORE OF SPIRIT LAKE Where the observation by Nicollet and Fremont was taken.
THE ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATION 43
any, of the hundreds of visitors who every summer sport on the sandy beach or bathe in the crystal waters of that charm- ing region are aware that they are treading on ground made historic b^' reason of its being the first of which any mention is made or record preserved in all northwestern Iowa.
The old N^icollet maps, or imperfect copies of them, were much in evidence back in the fifties. They showed the larger portion of Spirit Lake as being north of the state line. The state line was not surveyed until several years after these maps Vere made and consequently the northern boundary of the state had not then been determined, l^icollet's assistant and companion in this expedition was a man with whose name the Avorld has since become familiar, being none other than General John C. Fremont, then a young engineer in the service of the United States, afterwards the gallant "Pathfinder of the Rockies," the first republican candidate for the presidency, and a prominent major general in the Union army during the War of the Rebellion. It is more than probable that the ob- servation before noticed was taken by him and the record made in his handwriting. If this be so, it can be safely asserted that John C. Fremont was the first explorer of the Spirit Lake re- gion to give to the world an account of his discoveries. From this time on the lakes were frequently visited by hunters, trap- pers and adventurers up to the time when the state was ad- mitted to the Union in 1846.
The foregoing accounts embody all that is known of the early explorations of the lake region. The fact that this region was the favorite resort of the Wahpekutah branch of theYankton- Sioux has already been referred to. In the early days it was a well understood fact that the Indians regarded Spirit Lake with a kind of superstitious, reverential awe. The Indian name, "Minnie Waukon," signifying Spirit Water, is proof of this if there were no other, and the early trap-
44
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
pers and adveiitiireivs agree in ascribing to (hem a be- lief in various legends and tradilions to the effect that the lake Avas under the guardian Avatch care of a "Great Spirit," that its waters were continually troubled and that no Indian ever ventured to cross it in his ca^ioe. That some be- lief of tliis kind existed is certain; to what extent is un- known. It mav be regarded as a singular circumstance, but it is a fact, nevertheless, that no Indian canoe was ever found by the earlv settlers in the vicinity of the lakes. The veil of mys- tery, the shadow of uncertainty, the tinge of the supernatural, which rested on this enchanted region, early excited the interest and attracted the attention of the restless and hardy ])ioneers, Avho were thereby induced to strike out far beyond the confines of civilization and make homes for themselves and their pos- terity in this land of romance and this region of mystery.
(From an old photograph.)
THE GARDNER CABIN.
FIRST SETTLEMENT 45
On the 16th of July, 1856, Rowland Gardner, from Cerro Gordo County, in this state, and his son-in-law, Harvey Luce, came in and made claims and erected cabins adjacent to what was then known as the Gardner Grove. The Gardner house is still standing. It was occupied for several years by Rev. Samuel Pillsbury, and is now occupied, during the summer season, by Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp. James Mattock and his family, with several others from Delaware County, in this state, settled in the grove south of the Okoboji bridge, which was then known as Mattock's Grove, taking its name from Es- quire Mattock, one of the principal and most influential men in the settlement. About the same time a party came in from Red Wing, Minnesota, consisting of William Granger, Carl Granger, Bert Snyder and Doctor Harriott, and located on the point on the north side of the Okoboji bridge. Their cabins stood upon what is now the right of way of the Chicago, Mil- waukee & St. Paul Railroad, about half way between the lake shore and the depot. The Grangers claimed the point and the land along East Okoboji Lake; Harriott, the Maple Grove on West Okoboji Lake, and Snyder, Center Grove. Center Grove was known as Snyder's Grove for some time after the settlement subsequent to the massacre. Mr. Joseph M. That- cher, from Hampton, Franklin County, but formerly from Howard County, Indiana, about this time settled at the north end of what is now called Tusculum Grove. His cabin for- merly stood a little north of the present residence of H. D. Arthur. At the same time Joel Howe settled at the south end of the grove, near the jiresent residence of Mr. Ladn. In September a Mr. Marble, from Linn County, -this state, settled upon the west bank of Spirit Lake in the grove now owned by J. S. Polk. This grove was for vears known as Marble Grove. These comprise all of the settlements made prior to 1857.
In order to avoid confusion a recapitulation may be desirable.
46 DICKINSON COUNTY IOWA
First. The party consisting of Granger brothers, Harriott and Snyder resided north of the straits, where the Okoboji bridge now stands. The track of the ]\[ilwankee Railroad rnns through the site of their cabin. They were all yonng men without families except William Granger, ,and his family was not here. There was also stopping with them temporarily at the time of the massacre a young man by the name of Joseph Harshman,
Second. The family of Mr. Mattock, consisting of himself, wife and five children, resided at the south end of the Okoboji bridge. There were .also residing with him a Mr. Mattison, who had taken a claim upon the west side of Okoboji Lake, on what was for a long time known as Madison Grove. The family of Mr. Madison' remained in Delaware County during the winter, expecting to join him in the spring.
Third. The family of Mr. Gardner, consisting of himself, wife and four children (the oldest being the wife of Mr. Luce), and Mr. Luce, his wife and two children, resided in what was long known as the Gardner house, now occupied by Mrs. Sharp. There was also stopping temporarily with Mr. Gardner a young man from Waterloo bv the name of Clark, also a vouno- man by the name of Wilson, who afterwards became the husband of Eliza Gardner.
Fourth. The family of Joel Howe, consisting of himself, wife and seven children (the oldest being the wife of ^Ir. JSToble), resided in a cabin near the present residence of Mr. Ladu, ,at the south end of Tusculum Grove.
Fifth. The family of J. M. Thatcher, consisting of himself, wife and one child ; and the family of Mr. ISToble, consisting of himself and Avife and one child, resided in a cabin at the north end of Tusculum Grove, on the place now owned by H. D. Arthur. There was also boardinij: with ^fr. Tliatidier a
NEIGHBOKING SETTLEMENTS 47
trapper by the name of Morris Markliani, a Mr. Ryan, who was a brother-in-law of Mr. Noble; and a brother-in-law of Mr. Thatcher bv the name of Burtch.
Sixth. The family of Mr. Marble, consisting- of '!;'ii'^;'lf and wife, resided in a cabin located in the grove on the ridge between Spirit Lake and Marble Lake.
From the above it will be seen that over forty persons, liiCn, women and children, werd- 'dispersed in the varions localities adjacent to the lakes. It li^feffeeen deemed advisable to be thus particular in pointing out th6' location of the different families and the number of persons connected with each, from the face that the massacre in the spring of 1857 is the one importaiit event in the early history of this county, and the one about which travelers and strangers make the most in{piiries ; and r.t the same time, the one about which they get the least reliable information.
It may assist our understanding of aft'airs at the lakes by knowing something of surrounding settlements. The same year that the first settlement was attempted here, namely, in 1850, some six or eight families had settled on the Des Moines River in Jackson County, near where the town of Jackson now stands. They called their settlement Springfield. It was about fourteen miles from Marble's, and about twenty miles from the balance of the lake settlements. In Emmet County George Granger had built a good sized cabin four miles above where Estherville now stands, and there was a small cabin between his place and the river occupied by a couple of trap- pers. There were also two or three cabins in the neighborhood of Hieli Lake. There was no settleftient at Estherville until 1857. There was a small settlement eighteen miles east of Esther- ville, at Chain Lakes, known as "Tuttle's Grove." In the same year (1856) an Irish colony came from Kane County, Illinois, and settled on the Des Moines R)iver in Palo Alto
48 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
C'Ountj. Between there and Fort Dodge there were cabins along the river from two to five miles apart occupied by set- tlers and trappers. To the south of the lakes the first settle- ment was at Gillett's Grove, about thirty miles distant, where two brothers by the name of Gillett had brought in a large herd of cattle, which they were wintering there. From Gillett's Grove to Peterson there were son,i€i eight or ten families scat- tered along the groves that slyiiitbtke river. Waterman, four miles below Peterson, was tliQ^cJiijls^ person between there and Cherokee. Below Cherokee there were settlements every few miles to the Missouri. There was no settlement to the north or west. From Cherokee west there was no settlement until the Floyd was reached some ten miles above Sioux City.
CHAPTER IV.
THE PARTY FRO:sl JASPER COU]SrTY THEY EX- COUNTER A PART OF INKPADUTAH's BAND AT LOON LAKE THE EXPOSED CONDITION OF THE FRON- TIER NECESSITY FOR PROTECTION GOVERNOR
GRIMES APPEALS TO CONGRESS AND THE PRESI- DENT HIS APPEAL UNHEEDED THE TERRIBLE
WINTER OF 1856 AND 1857 INKPADUTAIl's BAND
GO SOUTH THE TROUBLE AT SMITHLAND DIF- FERENT VERSIONS THE INDIANS START UP THE
RIVER TROUBLE AT PETERSON AND IN BUENA
VISTA COUNTY GILLETt's GROVE GILLETt's
ACCOUNT AS GIVEN IN THE HISTORY OF CLAY
COUNTY SETTLERS SEND TO FORT DODGE FOR
ASSISTANCE DUNCOMBe's ACCOUNT THE IN- DIANS ARRIVE AT THE LAKES THEIR NUMBER
ACCOUNTS DIFFER.
X THE mouth of Xovember, 1856,. a ])arty from Jasper County, in this state, consisting of O. C. Howe, R. U. Wheelock and B. P. Parmenter, under the guidance of a hunter and trapper by the name of Wiltfong, made a visit to the county and were so captivated l)y the romantic scenery, lovely climate and abundance of game that they de- cided to return the coming spring for the purpose of perma- nent settlement. They spent some time in the vicinity of the lakes and returned to their homes just in time to avoid the ter- rific storms with which the winter of 1856 and 1857 set in. It is to them and to Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp that we are in- debted for what little we know of the condition of affairs in the vicinity of the lakes previous to the massacre. At the time
50 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
they were here, in N^ovember, Inkj^adutah and a part of his fol- lowers were camped at the southern extremity of Black Loon Lake, in Jackson County, Minnesota. As near as could he ascertained at the time, the band consisted of not less than fifteen nor more than twenty warriors, Vith their s(piaws and papooses and the usual appurtenances of an Indian camp. This band has been pretty thoroughly described and their relations to the settlers can now be pretty well understood. They Avere known as a thieving, jDilfering band of tramps and outlaws, (liovering along the border dividing the whites from the Indians. They acknowledged the autliority of neither. In their contact with civilization they had imbibed the evil and rejected the good. They possessed the vices of l)oth races and the virtuop of neither. It Mill require no stretch of the imagination to understand the feelings of bitterness, hatred and revenge on the one side, and that of distrust, apprehension and fear on tlic other, existing between the Indians and the settlers along the border. Under the circumstances it would l)e perfectly natural for the settlers to look to the general government for protection and defense. Other Indians besides Inkpadutah's band occa- sionally made excursions along the frontier, but they were without exception on friendly terms with the settlers.
Kepeated apj^eals were made to the United States authori- ties, both before and after the massacre, for more adequate protection to the Iowa frontier. Governor Grimes, during his administration (1854-1858), addressed several urgent appeals to our senators and representatives in Congress setting forth the exposed and helpless condition of the border settlements. As early as January 3, 1855, he sent them a lengthy communi- cation in which, among other things, he says : "I have taken the responsibility to appoint Major Williams, of Fort Dodge, a kind of executive agent to act for me in ])rotecting both the settlers and the Indians, and particularly to preserve the peace.
GOV. GRIMES ASKS FOR FRONTIER PROTECTION 51
I had no legal autliority to make such appointment, but as there was no government agent in that section of the country, and as I was so remote from the scene of trouble and felt that there should be some one in the vicinity wdio would act pru- dentlv and who could act efficientlv, I knew no better course than to appoint him as I have indicated." The letter closes as follows : "I trust, gentlemen, you wull stimulate the depart- ment at Washington to take immediate steps to remedy the evil complained of. We have just cause for complaint. The government has undertaken to protect our frontiers from the Indians with the assurance that this stipulation would be ful- filled. That frontier is filled with peaceful citizens, but the Indians are suffered to come among them, destroying their ]iropcrty and jeopardizing their lives. I hope no time will l)e h)st in allaying the apprehensions that exist in some parts of ihe state on this account. I am, gentlemen, very truly your obedient servant, James W. Grimes.
"To Hon. A. C. Dodge, Hon. George iW. Jones, Hon. J. P. Cook and Hon. B. Henn, Delegation in Congress from Iowa. Washington, D. C."
No response whatever was made to this appeal.
Nearly a year later he made another attempt, this time ad- dressing the President. The letter closes as follows : "A year ago the General Assembly of this state unanimously asked for the establishment of a military post on the Sioux River near the northwest corner of the state. I concur entirely in the pro- priety of that measure. I have no doubt that two companies of dragoons or cavalry stationed there would effectually pre- vent the incursions of the Indians and give quiet to the whole of northwestern Iowa. Without such a post they may be re- moved, but it does not occur to me how they may be perma- nently kept out. I am, very truly with great respect, your obedient servant, James W. Grimes.
"Hon. Franklin Pierce, President of the United States."
52 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
This letter was sent something" more than a year previons to the massacre and shared the same fate as the former one.
Hon. Charles Aldrich, in the Annals of Iowa, commentiniii; on tlie stnpidity and stuhbornness of the general government ii! withholding the necessary protection" to the frontier, savs: ^'Governor James W. Grimes wrote letters to onr United States senators and to the authorities at 'Washington some time be- fore the ontbreak of hostilities, asking that the general govern- ment take immediate steps for the protection of our exposed frontiers. Little or no attention was paid to his reiterated re- quests, and so when the Indians resorted to hostilities our Imva border was wholly without protection. " * * Had the earn- est appeals of Governor Grimes been heeded, the Spirit Lake Massacre would not have occurred. What makes this neglect appear more stu})idly and wickedly cruel was the fact that ir:' those days the catching of a runaway negro under the infam- ous Tugitive Slave Law' was rife in the land, and detach- ments of the Federal army or vessels of the L^nited States navy could be readily secured to return a slave to his master."
The winter of 1856 and 1857 is one long to be remembered by the early settlers of Iowa as the most severe one in the annals of its history. The first heavy storm occurred early in December, when snow fell to the depth of nearly two feet. This was followed l)y others in quick succession, until by the first of February the snow had reached a depth of four feet. These storms were accompanied with high winds and were of the most fearful and violent character. xTothing a]> preaching then in intensity has been experienced in the state of Iowa since. The settlers at the lakes were but illy prepared for such a winter as this. We must remember that there was not a foot of hunber to be had within a hundred miles and all of the flour and provisions used had to be hauled twice that distance. The cabins of the settlers were unfurnished. Thev
THE HARD WINTER 63
were without floors and had heavy puncheon doors hung upon wooden hinges. But few of the settlers had been able to get in a sufficient supply of provisions when the first storms came, and only succeeded in reaching home on snow shoes, dragging what little they could on hand sleds or sledges made for the occasion. The sufferings and privations endured at that time may be imagined, but they cannot be described.
Inkpadutah and his band left their camp at Loon Lake some time in December and went south down the Little Sioux as far as Smithland. Two other j^arties of Indians were known to have been hovering along the frontier at this time. One, a small party of agency Indians, pitched their camp in the neighborhood of Springfield, now Jackson, Minnesota. An- other party, under Ishtahaba, or Sleepy Eye, camped at Big Island Grove. There is no record that Inkpadutah's band had any trouble with the settlers on their way down the river. Whether they went by way of the settlements or not, is not known. There is no account of their being seen by the settlers here at all on their wav down the river, and it is more than probable that they went from the head of Spirit Lake down the divide to Lost Island Lake. Up to this time they were supposed to be friendly, that is, as friendly as usual. They Avere never cordial ; always sullen and suspicious. The settlers at Smithland knew but little, if anything, of the previous trou- bles of this band of Indians with the settlers of the older locali- ties, and they had no apprehensions of any serious difficulty. Various versions are given of the outbreak at this place. The one most generally accepted at the time was something as fol- lows : Large numbers of elk had been driven in from the prairie by the deep snows and terrific storms. These the In- dians surrounded and slaughtered in large numbers. This created excitement and indignation among the settlers, and some of them conceived the idea of driving the Indians away. To
54 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
accomplish this they got up a drunken frolic and invited the Indians in. They represented themselves as soldiers sent ont by General Harney to drive them out of the country. At that lime the operations of General Harney at Ash Hollow and other places had made his name a perfect terrgr to the Sioux, and they became very much alarmed and excited, so much so that they started at once on their return, leaving a portion of their guns and equijoage in the hands of the supposed soldiers. When this transaction became known, the more level-headed citizens denounced it and did what they could to counteract what they feared would be the result. They gathered up the guns and other property which the Indians had left behind and sent them forward to them, and did what else they could to appease their indignation, but as will soon appear, however, all to no purpose.
Mrs. Sharp says : ''It seems that one day, while the Indians were in pursuit of elk, they had some difficulty with the set- tlers. The Indians claimed that the whites intercepted the chase. There is also a report that an Indian was bitten by a dog belonging to one of the settlers, that the Indian killed the dog and that the man gave the Indian a severe beating. It is also said that the settlers whipped off a company of squaws who were carrying off hay and corn to feed their ponies. The Indians becoming more and more insolent, the settlers in self- protection went to the camp and disarmed them, intending to return their guns the next day and escort them out of the coun- try. But the next mornine: not a "red-skin" was to be seen. They had folded their tents like the Arabs, and as silently stolen awa3\"
Judge Fulton says : "One day wliile a party of them (the Indians) were in pursuit of an elk in the vicinity of Smithland, they had a difficulty with some white settlers. It is difficult to state with certainty the nature of the trouble, as different
INKPADUTAHS BAND AT SMITHLAND 56
and conflicting accounts of it have been given. The Indians, however, claimed that their pursuit of the elk was intercepted by the whites, who forced them to give up their arms and availed themselves of the use of their guns in the pursuit of the game. This aroused the indignation of the Indians and they demanded provisions of the settlers. They continued en- camped in the vicinity of Smithland for several days, during which time the whites became more and more annoyed by their presence. Finally the settlers resorted to strategy to get rid of them. At that time the name of General Harney was a terror to the Indians of the jSTorthwest, owing to a recent severe chastisement some of them had received at his hands. One of the settlers donning the old uniform of an army officer made liis appearance on the opposite side of the Little Sioux from the Indian encampment, while some of the other whites pointed him out to the Indians as General Harney and told them !ie was in pursuit of them. This ruse had the desired effect and the Indians hastily moved up the river with their savage nature aroused to a desire for revenge." These accounts, while none of them claim to be thoroughly accurate in detail, convey a pretty good general idea of the commencement of the troubles on the Little Sioux between the Indians and settlers. This affair occurred in February, 1857. The Indians after leaving Smithland followed up the Little Sioux Kiver by way of the settlements and com- menced their depredations by taking guns and amraunilion from the whites, and as they advanced, the settlements becom- ing sparser, they became more insolent and fearless in their conduct toward the settlers. By the time they reached Clay County their depredations had assumed a most savage and atrocious character.
Their depredations at Peterson are described by Mr. W. C. Gilbraith in his history of Clay County, in the following
5(3 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
language: ''The Clay County settlers had heard of the depre- dations they were committing and were thoroughly alarmed for the safety of themselves and their property. When they came to the home of Mr. Bicknell and finding no one there, he with his family having gone to Mr. Kirchner's, across the river, they immediately appropriated everything which met their fancy. The next day they made their appearance at the Kirchner house, where they found the terror stricken settlers huddled together. Without any ceremony they captured all the arms to be found, killed the cattle and took what they wanted. After remaining in the Peterson settlement a day and a night, they pushed on, leaving the whites badly frightened but thankful that they had escaped with their lives. This band of blood- thirsty Sioux then proceeded to the home of Ambrose Mead, who was absent at the time at, Cedar Falls. Previous to leav- ing for this place, he had arranged to have a Mr. Taylor and family remain with Mrs. Mead and children during his stay. When the Indians came, Mr. Taylor protested against their taking the property or disturbing the premises. Becoming angry at Taylor for his interference, they threatened to kill him if he did not keep out of the way. Fearing that they would carry out their threats, Taylor left the women and chil- dren and set out to secure assistance. The Indians killed the stock, drove off the ponies and carried the women with them. But, fearing they would be pursued and overtaken, they de- cided to allow the women to return after taking such liberties as the helpless women could not prevent. They then directed their steps towards Linn Grove and Sioux Rapids, where they subjected the settlers to the same treatment they had given the Mead and Taylor families."
Mrs. Sharp, in her book, relates the same occurrence, as fol- lows : "After remaining a few days in Cherokee, where they busied themselves with wantonly shooting cattle, hogs and
TROUBLE AT PETERSON 57
fowls and destroying property generally, sometimes severely beating those who resisted, they pi"oceeded up the Little Sioux to the little settlement in Clay County, now called Peterson. Here they tarried two or three days, committing acts of atroc- ity as usual. At the house of A. S. Mead (Mr. Mead being away) they not only killed his cattle and destroyed his prop- erty, but knocked down his wife and carried off to their camp his daughter Hattie (seventeen years old) and started away with a younger sister, Emma, but she resisted so hard and cried so loud that an Indian picked up a stick and whipped her all the way back to the house and left her. At the same house they knocked down Mr. E. Taylor, kicked his boy into the fireplace, burning him so badly that he still carries the scar on his leg, and took his wife off to their camp, but as yet they had com- mitted no murder. After one night in an Indian camp, Mrs. Taylor and Hattie Mead were permitted to return home." From Peterson they passed on up to Sioux Rapids, where simi- lar scenes were enacted and similar outrages perpetrated. They killed the stock and destroyed everything capable of being do stroved. It was at the home of Abner Bell that their atrocitic'? assumed the most fiendish aspect. From Sioux Rapids they went up to Gillett's Grove. The Gilletts were two brothers who had moved in late in the summer, bringing Avith them al^out a hundred head of cattle, intending to go largely into the stuck business. The Indians made more general destruction h'.^re than they had hitherto done. They killed every live animal on the place, took all of their bedding, clothing and provisions, and destroyed everything they could not take away. They even cut a new wagon to pieces to get the bolts.
The following highly sensational acCount is copied from Mr. Gilbraith's "History of Clay County," and while it contains statements that are new and strange to those who supposed they were familiar with the story of the massacre of 1857, it
58 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
must be accepted as liistoi-}'. There is nothing in it that is im- probable or inconsistent with the circumstances as they then existed.
"Mr. Gillett, one of the earliest settlers of the county, and for whom Gillett's Grove bears its name, recently visited friends in this county and the scene of his' former home. Dur- ing his visit he related an event which he hitherto had never made public. Mr. Gillett is now quite aged, and in a few more short years his race will be run, and, as he said, it would be useless to keep it a secret any longer, as the participants had passed over the silent river of death. The story is substan- tially as follows : He with his brother came to Clay County in the fall of 1856 and located at what is now known as Gil- lett's Grove, which is a beautiful grove filled with growing trees and through which courses the Little Sioux River. After deciding upon their location, they agreed to divide the grove equally, and one take the north and the other the south part. This being settled, they at once set to work and in a short time had constructed neat log houses and prepared themselves com- fortably for the winter. Being amply supplied with firewood, and their log houses being built not alone with a view to con- venience, but as well for warmth, they had no fears of suffer- ing from the storms or intense cold Aveather which were not- able at that time in this section.. The only fears they enter- tained were from the Indians. But at that time they did not make frequent visits to this particular section for the reason that there was but little game, poor fishing and no settlements. The newly acquired property holders, therefore, felt themselves safe and comfortable from any intrusions from the wild sav- ages, whose treachery they so much feared.
"Everything passed along quietly for several months, until one day a tribe under Chief Inkpadutah came and set up their tepees upon the bank of Lost Island Lake. The settlers upon learning of their arrival and location feared that the Indians would discover the location of their houses and visit them. Their fears were well founded, for in a few days several of the red-skins paid them a visit. The white settlers treated them kindly and gave them provisions, and they left for their camp- ing grounds expressing their friendship and thanks for the food 2:iven them. In a few davs another lot of them came, headed by a stalwart brave who had been with the others a few
THE AFFAIR AT GILLETT'S GROVE 59
days before. After saying their usual "^'How/' tkey were sup- plied by the whites and returned to the lakes. During both visits it Avas noticeable that one of them, the one who led the second group, had liis eyes constantly fixed in admiration upon Mrs. Gillett. Wherever she went and whenever she moved, his eye was upon her. In a few days he returned ; this time alone. He was given ,a seat and provided with a meal. He went away, but. every two or three days he came, and although saying nothing, his looks indicated his admiration for Mrs. GMllett. His visits grew so constant and frequent that they became an- noying, not only to Mrs. Gillett, but to the two families. He \vas constantly prowling around and appearing before them at the most unexpected moments, until he became a great nuis- ance. He was given to understand that his visits were not desired, but to these reminders he paid not the least attention. He was always fed and well treated, for the reason that the settlers did not wish to give any offense to the tribe or incur their enmity. But, becoming emboldened by the kind treat- ment that had been extended to him, one day in the absence of Mr. Gillett, and mastering all of the English language he possessed, he made certain proposals to Mrs. Gillett, which she indignantly rejected, and warned him to leave. He left the house in a short time, but had not gone a great distance when Mr. Gillett returned home. His wife immediately in- formed him of the Indian's conduct. The husband took down his rifle, and learning the direction the Indian had taken, set out after him. After a few minutes' walk he caught sight of him and drew up his rifle and fired. He did not wait to ascertain the result of his shot, but returned to his cabin and ate his supper. In the morning, in company with his brother, he visited the spot, and there found a dead Indian. The brothers, after severing the head from the body — which they subsequently sent to an eastern medical college — placed it in a hollow tree. They at once packed up their belongings and started for Fort Dodge, knowing full well that the Indians would discover the absence of the buck, and, knowing his fond- ness for Mrs. Gillett, would come there in search of him, and finding no trace of him, would suspicion they had killed him, and would revenge themselves upon the white settlers. They, therefore, deemed it prudent to make their escape before the arrival of the searching party, which they did."
60 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
According to the above account, the Indians remained in camp at Lost Island several days. Accepting it as true, it throws some light upon the origin, or rather the commence- ment, of the massacre here at the lakes. It is easy to under- stand the pitch of frenzy to which the passions of the savages would naturally be raised when they made the discovery that one of their number had been slain by Gillett, as rela)ted by him, and the fact that he had made good his escape before the act was discovered wuuld only increase their determination to wreak their vengeance upon the first luckless white settler that came in their way.
We have always been led to observe the close connection be- tween the murder of Sidominadotah and his family by Lott in 1854, and the Spirit Lake Massacre of 1857, and that the latter was the legitimate outcome of the former, but accepting Gillett's story as true, it must be regarded as an important fac- tor in precipitating the massacre at that time. Except for that it is possible that the settlers at the lakes would have fared no worse than their neighbors down the river. It may be regarded as singular that Gillett should have kept the affair a secret for thirty-five years before giving it to the world, l)ut that might be accounted for on the theory that he knew he ^vould be blamed for not warning the other settlers of the danger he had precipitated by his somewhat rash act.
From the Little Sioux messengers were sent to Fort Dodge setting forth their situation and imploring relief. At first the citizens of Fort Dodge were inclined to be skeptical and sus- picious that the reports of the depredations were largely ex- aggerated. They could not l)elieve the Indians were rash enough or foolish enough to thus defy the power of the gov- ernment and the people. They knew the destitute condition of the settlers along the frontier at the commencement uf winter and many branded the story as a ruse to induce them to send
MESSENGERS REACH FORT DODGE - THEIR STORY 61
supplies or take other measures for their relief. But the re- ports kept coming thicker and more of them.
Mr. Duncombe, in his account of the Spirit Lake Expedition, says :
"In January, 1857, word was brought to Fort Dodge that a large band of Indians, under the lead of Inkpadutah, had followed down the Little Sioux River to a point near Smith- land; that this band was composed of Sioux half-breeds and straggling renegades of the Sioux tribe, and that they had be- come exceedingly insolent and ugly. The next information received at Fort Dodge was in the latter part of February, when Abner Bell, a Mr. Weaver and a Mr. Wilcox came to Fort Dodge and gave Major Williams and myself the startling intelligence of acts and dej^redations of these scoundrels, said to be about seventy in number, including about thirty war- riors. These three men had left the Little Sioux Eiiver, and coming through the awful storms and almost impassable snows for sixty miles without a house or landmark on the way, sought aid from our people. They gave a sad and vivid description of the shooting 'down of their cattle and horses, of the abuse of their children, the violation of their women and other acts of brutishness and cruelty too savage to be repeated. They pictured in simple but eloquent words the exposures of the dear wife, mother and children, their starving condition and their utter helplessness. These reports were repeated from day to day by other settlers from the Little Sioux, who from time to time came straggling into Fort Dodge. These repeated ac- counts of the acts of the Indians led every one familiar with the Indian character to become fully satisfied that they were determined on some great purpose of revenge against the ex- posed frontier settlements, and this caused much alarm among the people. Among the number giving this information were Ambrose S. Mead, L. F. Finch, G. M. and W. S. Gillett and John A. Kirchner, father of John C. and Jacob Kirchner, who are now citizens of Fort Dodge. These depredations com- menced at the house of Abner Bell, on the 21st day of Februarv, A. D. 1857. On the 24th of February, 1857, the house occu- pied by James Gillett was suddenly attacked by ten or more armed warriors and the two families living under the same roof, consisting of the heads of each family and five small chil-
62 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
dren, were terrorized and most villainously abused. After en- during outrages there, tliej managed to escape at midnight and late the following evening arrived at the residence of Bell, poorly clad, and having been without food for over thirty-six hours. The sufferings of these people and their little children will be appreciated by those who remember the driving storms, piercing winds and intense cold of the unparalleled winter of 1856 and 1857, to my knowledge the longest and most severe of any winter for the last forty-three years. From Gilleti's Grove, near the present beautiful and prosperous city of Spen- cer, the Indians proceeded to Spirit Lake and the lakes near by. ]*^o preparation could be made for resistance on account of the sparsity of the population and the scattered homes. In fact, it is improbable that any family knew that depredations were being committed by these red devils until they were themselves attacked when wholly unprepared for any such event."
The settlers along the Little Sioux also applied for help to the settlers on the Coon River at Sac City and below. Quite a company was raised there and made their way across to Peterson by way of Storm Lake, but they were too late to accomplish anything. The Indians were gone and they were not prepared to follmv them. They accordingly returned to their homes.
The Indians arrived in the neighborhood of the lakes about the seventh of March, and camped in the Okoboji Grove at a dis- tance of about fifteen rods from the Mattock cabin. The date of their arrival at the lakes was about two weeks after the trou- ble near Sioux Rapids, which interval of time they doubtless spent in the camp at Lost Island. The idea suggests itself at this point that possibly the party of Indians at Lost Island was much larger than at the lakes. ^NTearly every account referring to the Indians committing their depredations along the Little Sioux gives their numbers at from thirty to forty warriors, and some even more. Mr. Duncombe, who received his informa- tion direct from the settlers, in his account puts it between
SAVAGES ARRIVE AT THE LAKES 63
thirty and forty. Mr. Gilbraitli, in Lis '"History of Clay County," says from sixty to seventy, while the actual number engaged in the massacre at the lakes was but fifteen. It may be possible that the Indians divided their forces at Lost Island, one party going direct to the Des Moines, while the other came by way of the lakes. Either this, or the settlers along the Little Sioux lare'clv overestimated their number. As before stated, the Indians went into camp near the Mattock cabin about the seventh of March. Their tepees were arranged in a circle on both sides of the road running from Mattock's place to Gardner's. The inhabitants here had received no intimation of the depredations committed by them along the Little Sioux and had no apprehension of danger, and were, therefore, taken entirely by surprise. A letter found in the Granger cabin, w^ritten by Doctor Harriott to his father. Judge Harriott, dated March sixth, throws some light on the matter. In this letter he refers to the fact that the Indians were camped there, that they were on friendly terms with them, and that they had done some trading with them. Other matters were referred to in the letter which showed that they had no suspicion of danger.
CHAI^TER V.
SITUATION AT THE LAKES TIIE INDIANS IN
CAMP INCIDENTS OF THE FIRST DAY OF THE
MASSACRE ABBIE GARDNER TAKEN TO THEIR
CAMP A PRISONER SECOND DAY OF THE MASSA- CRE MRS. THATCHER AND MRS. NOBLE TAKEN
PRISONERS THE INDIANS CROSS THE LAKE AND
GO NORTH TO MARBLE GROVE MARBLE KILLED
■ AND MRS. MARBLE TAKEN PRISONER INDIANS
THEN MOVE NORTHWEST TO HERON LAKE.
OME time previous to this Harvey Luce and J. M. Tliatclier went out for supj)lies, going as far east as Waterloo. On tlieir return they were accompanied by Enoch Ryan, a brother-in-law of ISToble; Robert Clark, a young man from Waterloo; Jonathan Howe, a son of Joel Howe ; and Asa Burtch, a brother of Mrs. Thatcher. Thev traveled with an ox team and their j^rogress through the deep snow was necessarily slow. Upon arriving at Shippey's, in Palo Alto County, some ten miles below Emmetsburg, their cattle were so nearly exhausted that they found it necessary to stop for a few days to rest and recruit them. It was decided that Burtch and Thatcher should stav and take care of the cat- tie and come on as soon as they were able, while the others took their way over the snow on foot to the lake, arriving there on the sixth of March, just in time to share the fate of their un- fortunate neighbors, while Burtch and Thatcher escaped by being left behind.
Late in the fall Eliza Gardner made a visit to Springfield to the family of Doctor Strong, intending to return home after a short time, but the deep snow and, the unparalleled severity of
MATTERS LOOK THREATENING 65
the winter made communication between the two places almost impossible and she was compelled to stay where she was. This accounts for her absence at the time of the massacre, and for her being at the home of Mr. Thomas at the time of "the attack on Springfield. The incidents of the massacre can never be fully known. All the details we have are those furnished by Mrs. Sharp and they are necessarily very meager, as she saw but little of them. It seems that Mr. Gardner had been con- templating a trip to Fort Dodge for provisions as soon as Mr. Luce returned from his trip to Waterloo. Mr. Luce returning on the sixth, Gardner determined to start on the eighth, and commenced making arrangements accordingly. On that morn- ing the family arose earlier than usual that he might have the advantage of an early start. As they were about to sit down to breakfast, a single Indian came in and demanded food. lie was given a j)lace at the table with the family. Soon others made their appearance until Inkpadutah and his fourteen war- riors, together with their squaws and papooses, were crowded into the cabin. After disj^atching the food that had been provided for the family, they became sullen and insolent. demanding ammunition and numerous other things. One of them snatched a box of caps from Gardner. Another attempted to seize a powder horn from the wall, but was prevented by Mr. Luce. The Indian then attempted to shoot Luce, but was prevented by Luce seizing the gun pointed at him.
At this time two young men from the Granger cabin, Harriott and Snyder, knowing that Gardner intended starting for Fort Dodge, called to send letters down by him to be mailed. Gard- ner told them at once that he could not go and leave his family, that he believed the situation was serious and that the Indians were bent on mischief. He .also wanted the settlers to get to- gether at the strongest place and make preparations for de- fense. Harriott and Snyder did not believe there was any
66 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
danger. They thought it a pet of the Indians that would soon pass away. So they did some trading with the Indians and started back to their own cabin, taking no precautions whatever for their own safety. Tlie Indians prowled about the prem- ises until about noon, when thev started back towards their camp, driving Gardner's cattle ahead of thoni, shooting them on the Avay. This was the first time the cabin had been clear of Indians since thev first came in the morniuff.
It was a serious question now what to do. They wanted to notify the other settlers, and still if any of the men left it would so weaken their own ]_)arty that it Avould not be possible to make an effective defense if the Indians returned, which they were liable to do any minute. It was finally agreed that Luce and Clark should go out and warn the rest and return as soon as possible. Accordingly, aliout two o'clock tliey set out for the Mattock cabin. Anxiously the inmates of the cabin awaited, further develo2)ments.
We will let Mrs. Sharp tell the rest. She says : "About three o'clock we heard the report of guns in rapid succession from the house of Air. Mattock. We were then no longer in doubt as to the awful reality that was hanging over us. Two long hours we passed in this fearful anxiety and suspense, waiting and watching with conflicting hopes and fears for Mr. Luce and Mr. Clark to return. At length, just as the sun was sinking behind the western horizon and shedding its brilliancy over the snowy landscape, father, whose anxiety would no longer allow him to remain within doors, went out to recon- noiter. He, however, hastily returned saying : 'Nine Indians are coming now only a short distance from the house and wc are all doomed to die.' His first thought was to barricade the door and fight till the last, saying, ''While they are killing all of us I will kill a few of them with the two loaded guns left in the house.' But to this mother jirotested, having not yet
DEPREDATIONS COMMENCE AT GARDNERS f)7
lost all faith in the savage monsters and still hoping they would appreciate our kindness and spare our lives. She said, 'If we have to die, let us die innocent of shedding blood.' Alas for the faith placed in these inhuman monsters ! They entered the house and demanded more flour, and as father turned to get them what remained of our scanty store^ they shot him through the heart. He fell upon his right side and died with- out a struggle. When first the Indian raised his gun to fire mother or Mrs. Luce seized the gun and drew it down, but the other Indians instantly turned upon them, seized them by their arms and beat them over their heads with tlie butts of their guns ; then dragged them out of doors and killed them in the most cruel and shocking manner. They next seized the children, tearing them from me one by one while they reached their little arms to me, crying piteously for protection that I was powerless to give. Heedless of their cries, they dragged them out of doors and beat them to death with sticks of stove wood."
After ransacking the cabin and taking whatever they could make use of and destroying the rest, they started for their camp near the Mattock cabin, taking Abigail (Mrs. Sharp) with them as a prisoner. This occurred just at nightfall. Upon arriving at the camp the Mattock cabin w,a.s in flames and the bodies of the m.urdered victims scattered about it. Nothing can be known as to what transpired here, as all was over and the cabin burning before the arrival of the Indians with their prisoner. Mrs. Sharp makes note of the fact that shrieks were heard issuing from the burning building indicat- ing that one or more luckless victims were suffering the agonies of death from burning. It is conjectured that after the first surprise was over some resistance was made at this point. The bodies of two of the men from the Granger cabin, Harriott and Snyder, were found here ; also that of young Harshman.
68
DICKINSON COUNTY
IOWA
BURNING OF MATTOCK CABIN.
])octor Harriott, when found, had a loaded revolver in his hand with one barrel discharged. One or two Sharps rifles were found near tlie bodies of the men as they lay. In short, everything indicated a complete surprise at first and then an attempt to rally and make a defense, but too late.
The Indians celebrated their bloody achievement that night by holding a war dance among the bodies of their luckless vic- tims. Their threatening gestures accompanied by their ter- I'ific howls and their monotonous ''Hi Yi, Hi Yi," were kej^t up until far into the night. On the next morning a portion of the force started for the Howe and Thatcher cabin, nearly four miles distant. They met Mr. Howe on the bank of the lake, about a quarter of a mile from his cabin. He had a grain bag with him when found by the burial party, and it is sup- posed that he had started for either Gardner's or Mattock's for flour. They killed him and severed his head from his body. The skull was found some time after by George Ring on the bank of the lake. They then went to the house of Mr. Howe, where they dispatched the rest of the fam- ily, consisting of Mrs. Howe, a grown up son and daughter,
MASSACRE CONTINUED 69
and five younger children, and the child of Mrs. xToble. Trom here they went to the Thatcher cabin. Here were two men, two women and two children, Mr. IN^oble, wife and one child, ]\[rs. Thatcher and one child and Mr. Enoch Ryan. As usual they feigned friendship until the men were off their guard, and then shot them both simultaneously. The cal)in had but one door and that faced the south. Tlie men were on the north side of the cabin when thev were shot. After killinc:: the stock and plundering the house, they took the two women ( ^Mrs. Noble and Mrs. Thatcher) prisoners and started back to camp. On their way they again stopped at the house of Mr. Howe. Here Mrs. Noble found her mother lying dead under the bevl, where she had doubtless crawled after being left by her mur- derers. Her brother Jacob, some thirteen rears old, who had been left for dead or dying, was found sitting up in the yard, conscious, but unable to speak. To her questions he responded only with a shake of the head. She told him that if the In- dians did not come to him and finish the murder, to crawl into the house and get into one of the beds, as perhaps help would come and he might be saved, but the savages kill('(l him Ijefore her eyes. While Mrs. Noble was taking note of these things, the Indians were busy with their work of ]dunder and destruc- tion, after which they, with their prisoners, returned to camp. This was on the ninth of March, and as will appear later on, the day preceding the night in which Markham had his hair- breadth escape by wandering into the very center of their camp before he was aware of their presence.
On the morning of the tenth they broke camp and crossed West Okoboji on the ice to Madison Grove, where they again went into camp, staying one night only. The next day, the eleventh, thev took their wav north to Marble Grove, on the west side of Spirit Lake, where they went into camp some distance north of Marble's house. Marble had heard nothing
70 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
of the troubles below and was Avbolly unsuspicious of danger. As usual, tbey asked for food. After partaking of it, they bantered liim to trade rifles. After some diekerinc; a trade Avas made. They theii proposed shooting at a mark. Aceord- ingiy, a mark was set u]), and after IMarlJe bad sliot at it, the Indians turned on him and riddled liim with bullets. They then proceeded to appropriate such things as they could make use of and to destroy the balance, after which they took Mrs. Marble with them to their cam]), thus lu-inging the number of prisoners up to four. At night a war dance was held to cele- l)rate the achievements of the day, at which they recounted with pantomimic gestures and energetic action the wonderful deeds in which they had so recently participated.
Before leaving this place the Indians removed the bark from an ash tree and delineated on the white surface bv signs and characters a hieroglyphical representation of their recent exploits. Many of the writers who have mentioned this inci- dent have made more of it than the facts would warrant. The three or four published accounts which have been given to the public agree in stating that the picture record gave the posi- tion and nundjer of victims correctly, and also represented those killed as being pierced with arrows. ISTow this is mainly fiction. The first discovery of the tree on which the hieroglyphics were delineated was by a party consisting of O. C. Howe, R. IL Wheelock and the writer sometime in ]\ray. They were the first party to take a tri]i on the west side of Spirit Lake after the massacre. The tree was first noticed by Mr. Howe, and he called the attention of the rest of the party to it. It was a white ash tree standing a little way to the southeast of the door of the Marble cabin. It was about eight inches in diam- eter, not over ten ,at the most. The rough outside bark had been hewed off for a distance of some twelve or fifteen inches up and down the tree. Upon the smoothed surface thus
INDIANS AT HERON LAKE 71
made were the representations. The number of cabins (six) was correctly given, the largest of which was represented as being in flames. There were also representations of human figures and with the help of the imagination it was possible to distinguish which were meant for the whites and which the Indians. There were not over ten or a dozen all told, and ex- cept for the hint contained in the cabins, the largest one being in flames, we could not have figured anv meaning out of it. This talk of the victims being pierced with arrows and their number and position given, is all nonsense, ^ir. Howe and the writer spent some time studying it, and, while they came to the conclusion that it would convey a definite meaning to those understanding it, they could not make much out of it.
After leaving Marble's place, the Indians traveled slowly to the northwest, camping in the groves that border on the small lakes in that direction, never stopping more than one night in a place, until they arrived at Heron Lake, about thirty- five miles northwest of Spirit Lake, sometime about the twen- ty-fourth or twenty-fifth of March.
CHAPTER VI.
DISCOVERY OF THE MASSACRE MARKHAM's NAR-
ROW ESCAPE HE CARRIES THE NEWS TO SPRING- FIELD THE REPORT ALSO REACHES FORT DODGE
BUT IS NOT CREDITED AT FIRST HOWE AND
WHEELOCK REACH FORT DODGE THEIR ACCOUNT
ACCEPTED AS TRUE PUBLIC MEETING HELD
VOLUNTEERS CALLED FOR TWO COMPANIES
RAISED HERE AND ONE AT WEBSTER CITY EX- PEDITION STARTS FOR THE LAKES INCIDENTS OF
THE MARCH MEET THE SPRINGFIELD REFUGEES
MEET MESSENGER FROM U. S. TROOPS MAIN
BODY TURNS BACK DETACHMENT OF TWENTY- THREE PROCEED TO THE LAKE.
[II TIE DISCOVERY of tlie massacre and the manner in which it was made public now deserve a passing notice. Reference has formerly heen made to a trapper IrJ the naine of ^Markham who was boarding in the family of J. M. Thatcher. It seems that early in the winter some cattle belonging to Markham had strayed away and that he was un- able to get any tidings of them until near spring, when he heard they were at Mud Lake (or Big Island Grove, as it was then called) in Emmet County. He went over there, found and identifie.d the cattle, made arrangements for their care, spent some time in that locality, and finally started for home on the ninth of ^Nlarch. It will be remembered this was the day on which the Howe and Thatcher families were murdered and the dav after the balance of the massacre. Shortly after he started for the lakes there came up one of the fearful storms
DISCOVERY OF THE MASSACRE 73
SO common that winter. The weather was intensely cold for the season of the year but there was no alt-ernative but to press through if possible. He lost his course and struck farther south than he intended, and about eleven o'clock in the even- ing he reached the house of Mr. Gardner cold, hungry and uearly exhausted. Upon his arrival he was not a little sur- prised to find the place apparently deserted and everything about the house in confusion, and although he did not encoun- ter any dead bodies, lie was pretty sure that there had been trouble with the Indians. He then started down through the grove for the Mattock place. The old foot path followed sub- stantially the same track as is now the liighway through the grove. The night was uncommonly dark and objects could not be distinguished at all any distance away. When he ha-l nearly reached Mattock's cabin his attention was attracted by the barking of a dog and the voices of individuals. He stopped to listen, and after taking a careful survey of the situation lib found that he had unconsciously walked into the center of the Indian camp, they having pitched their tepees in a circle on both sides of the path. To withdraw from the proximity of hio unwelcome neighbors without attracting their attention was an exceedingly difficult job and required all of his tact and address. Aided by the darkness he finally succeeded. He now took his course up across East Okoboji Lake to the cabin of Mr. Howe, where he found everything destroyed and in confusion and the bodies of the murdered victims scattered around. From there he went to the cabin of Mr. Thatcher, where he had been board- ing through the winter, but the condition of affairs was simi- lar here to what he found it at the other places. Thinking it unsafe to stay in the house, he went into a deep ravine a short distance away, and spent the remainder of the night. In the morning he found tliat his feet were partially frozen, but he immediately started for the Des Moines River, which he sue-
74 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
eeeded in reaching at the George Granger place. Here he fell in with some trappers, two of whom started immediately for Fort Dodge, wdiere they gave the first acconnt of the massacre. But having received the particulars at second hand, and being badly frightened at them, their story was so incoherent and their statements so contradictory, they were not believed and but very little notice was taken of them. ^^larkham, in the meantime, went up the river to Springfield and carried the news of the massacre at the lakes to that settlement so that they had warning that trouble might be expected.
Mention has previously been made of the party from Jasper County, consisting of Howe, Wheelock and Parmenter, who were here in the fall and passed Inkpadutah's camp at Loon Lake at that time. Before leaving the lakes tliev had deter- mined to make permanent settlement there in the spring. This party left l^ewton not far from the first of March. At Fort Dodge they crossed the river and came up all of the way on the west side. By so doing they missed the trappers who went down with the news of the massacre, as thev went down on the east side, consequently they heard nothing of the troubles until their arrival there. They were traveling with ox teams through the deep snow, and of course their progress was necessarily slow. On the night of the fifteenth they camped in a sm.all grove on the bank of Mud Creek, in Llovd town- ship. The next morning they took an early start, thinking to reach the Gardner place before night, l)ut a storm came \\\^ and they lost their course. Having their spring and summer sup- plies, of course they were heavily loaded. They abandoned their load in a slough some two or three miles east of Gar Lake and struck for the settlement," which they reached about mid- night. They first went to Thatcher's, where they found everything in confusion, but did not happen on any dead bodies. Then they went to HoM''e's, where they camped for
RELIEF EXPEDITION ORGANIZED 75
tlie night. In the morning they made such investigation of matters as they were able, and then for the first time the fact became apparent that the settlement had been wiped out by a bloody massacre. The party started immediately for Fort Dodge, arriving there on the twenty-second of March. They were so well known there that their statements were taken without question.
A public meeting was immediately called, at which it was decided to send an expedition to the lakes to bury the dead, relieve the living, if any were found, and if possible to over- take and execute summary vengeance upon the savage maraud- ers who had thus destroyed the settlement. The difficulties in the way of such an enterprise were numerous. The snow, which lay on the ground to an unprecedented depth, was just beginning to soften, and all were aware that just as soon as it commenced melting the streams would be swollen so as to be impassable. The settlers on the river above Fort Dodge be- came alarmed and most of them left their i)laces and came into town, thus leaving the country through which the expedi- tion must necessarily jiass practically uninhabited, and those who remained were so destitute that they could furnish noth- ing for the expedition. The meeting at Fort Dodge was held on the twenty-third of March. Major Williams being present read a commission he held from Governor Grimes authorizing him in cases of emergency to take the proper measures for the defense of the frontier. Volunteers were called for and it soon became evident that there would be no delay in getting the men. In a few minutes a force of about seventy men was raised. This force was organized in two companies. A and B, Company A under the command of C. B. Richards, and Com- pany B under the command of J. F. Duncombe. Another, Com- pany C, Captain J. C. Johnson, was raised at Webster City, which brough the force up to about a hundred men. The whole
(2;^:;^^^^^^^^ ^^^^
CAPTAIN COMPANY A.
^^^/crUi^ %J^c:%/h^*-'i^L^XT%ytyC^^^..^^^^^^
CAPTAIN OF COMPANY B.
78 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
force was under the command of Major William Williams, of Fort Dodge, while George B, Sherman, of the same place, acted as quartermaster and commissary. The expedition was without tents and was but partially supplied with blankets, the men being limited to one apiece. The means ^ of transportation were very imperfect. There was no grain in the country above Fort Dodge, and it was impossible to take anv along as it was necessary to take provisions for the round tri]). The snow- was nearly four feet on the level and all of the ravines and low places were completely filled, and when the snow com- menced melting it was one continued reach of water and slush. The enlisted men were no tenderfeet. They comprehended to its fullest extent the perils and jtrivations they would neces- sarily have to overcome before completing the task they had undertaken, ai!<l while they went at the Avork of preparation with that careless gayety and nonchalance which usually char- acterize the representative frontiersman, they well knew that it was more than probalde that some of their number would be left on that wild and desolate prairie, their flesh to be torn and devoured ])y the beasts and l)ir(ls of prey and their bones to bleach in sun and storm until thev turned ae'ain to dust. Looking back and recalling the events of that memorable ex- pedition the only wonder is that the nnnd)er of victims was not materially larger.
The expedition left Fort Dodge on the twenty-fourth of March. Some accounts say the twenty-fifth, but this is a mis- take. Thev started on the twentv-fourth, and were nine davs in reaching what was then known as the Granger place, in Emmet Countv, the point where the command divided and the
"-.' ■>
main body turned back. I^ine days of rougher campaign- ing it would be difficult to imagine. The snow had so filled in around the groves and along the streams that at times it was impossible to reach them. It was no uncommon experi-
c.^f'^-^^i^^nU,^_^
FIRST LIEUTENANT OF COMPANY 0.
80 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
ence to wade through snow and water waist deep during the day, and at night to lie down in their wet clothing, without fire and without tents, and on short rations of food. The onlv way the men could keep from freezing was by lying so closo together that they could only turn ov^er by 2:»latoons. The ra- vines were all filled level full of snow and it was often neces- sary to detach the teams and rigging a cable to the wagons for the whole party to • take hold and make their way through. As the expedition neared the state line, and settlements became sparser and smaller, it was deemed prudent to send a force of scouts out in advance of the main body. Accordingly, on the morning of the thii:tieth of March, Manor Williams made a detail of ten men to act as scouts, un<ler the command of 'William L. Church, who, by the way, was a veteran of the Mexican War. Mr. Church with his family, consisting of his wife, his wife's sister and two small children, had settled at Springfield the fall before, and in Feb- ruary Church had made a trip to Webster City for supplies, leaving his family in the settlement at Springfield during his absence. He had reached McKnight's Point, on the west fork of the Des Moines in Humboldt County on his return when he heard of the mas- sacre at the lakes, and also that a relief party w.as being or- ganized at Fort Dodge and would be up in a few days. He accordingly waited for their arrival, when he enrolled himself as a member of Company C. He had heard nothing of his family since he left home nearly a month before, and was continuallv in a state of feverish anxiety. Some of the ac- counts say that Lieutemmt Maxwell had command of the scouting party, but this is a mistake. Church had charge of the scouts up to the time they fell in with the Springfield refui- ffees, when he went down the river with them and the scouts were then turned over to Maxwell.
MEET THE SPRINGFIELD REFUGEES 81
On the morning in question, as soon as the detail was com- pleted, he started with his scouts some distance in advance of the main party. As they were crossing over the divide near the south line of Emmet County, they saw, a long distance ahead of them, a party of pedestrians, but whether they were whites or Indians could not then be determined, as the party when first sighted must have been nearly two miles away. Church brought his men together^ had them examine their arms to see that they were in readiness, and gave the word for a cautious advance, he taking the lead. As the distance be- tween the two parties was gradually diminished, it was evi- dent that the strangers were approaching with fully as much caution as Church's party. It was now discovered that they had an ox team with them. This settled the question that they were not Indians. About this time they commenced making t^igiials, which the scouts answered, and throwing away their caution, started on the run to meet them, Church taking the lead. His eagerness was soon explained, as his wife, wife's sister and two children were members of the party, and this was the first intimation he had received since he heard of the massacre as to whether his family were dead or alive. It was a glad, yet a sorrowful meeting. Glad that their circle was yet complete ; that none of their number had fallen victims to tlie savage foe. Sorrowful that so much of danger and suffer- ing had been endured and that so much more of sorrow and privation must come to them before their comfort and safety could be assured.
It was now ascertained that they were a party of refugees fleeing from Indian depredations in the neighborhood of Springfield (now Jackson), Minnesota. The party consisted of about twenty men, women and children, among whom were Mrs. Church, her two children, and her sister Miss Swanger; Mr. Thomas, his wife and several children ; David Carver,
82 DICKINSON COUNTY • IOWA
John Bradshaw, Morris Markham, Jareb P.almer, Miss Eliza Gardner, Doctor Strong and wife, Doctor Skinner and several others. From them it was ascertained that the Indians had made a raid on the settlements along the Des Moines River three days before, an acconnt of whicli- will be given later on. They had with them three persons who had been severely wonnded in that attack ; namely, Mr. Thomas, Mr. Carver and Miss Swanger. They had been three days npon the road, dnriiig whicli time they had been withont provisions, except a kind of lunch thev took along with them, and in that time thev had suffered incredible hardships. The women and children had waded through snow and water waist deep and at night had lain down in their wet clothes completely exhausted.
It was decided bv the scoutfl "and refugees to so into cami) in the nearest grove and to send back messengers to the maiii body to hurry up supplies and to inform the surgeon that his services would probably be needed. The messengers detailed for this service were Frank Mason of Company C and the writer. The balance of the scouts, together with the refugees, started for the nearest grove, which was on the river directly west from where the two parties met. The place has since been known as ''Camp Grove," and is situated on the line between Palo Alto and Emmet Counties. When the messengers reached the main body and delivered their message, ex- citement ran high. The troops hurried forward as rapidly as possible, and when they reached the grove the boys had campfires already started and everyone set to work immediate- ly to alleviate the sufferings of the exhausted refugees. They gave up for their use the only tent in the command and fur- nished them with such provisions as they had, while the sur- geon. Doctor Bissell, dressed their wounds and made them as comfortable as possible under the circumstances. The next
MEET MESSENGERS FROM U. S. TROOPS 83
d^y they started on their way down the river, while the volun- teers continued their march toward the lakes.
Governor Carpenter in his account refers to this incident as follows:
"If the expedition had accomplished nothing more, every man would have felt himself repaid for his share in its toil and sulfering by the relief it was able to afford to ihese suffering" refugees. In the haste of their departure from Springfield they had taken but little provisions and scanty clothing. ' The women in wading through the drifted snow had worn out their shoes, their gowns were worn to fringes at the bottom, and all in all, a more forlorn and needy company of men and women were never succored by the hands of friends. They cried and laughed, and laughed and cried, alternately. A part of one squad then returned to the main command with the information of our discovery and the residue conducted the worn and weary party to the nearest grove on the De? Moines Kiver, where the main body joined them later in the afternoon and where we spent the night. The next morning we divided our scanty rations and blankets with them and they went forward toward safety and friends, whilst we pushed towards the scene of the massacre."
On the afternoon of the first day of April the command reached Granger's place, when it was ascertained that a party of United States troops had come dow^n from Fort Ridgley and were then at Springfield ; that a detachment under Lieu- tenant Murray had been over to Spirit Lake and buried Mar- ble, but did not go down to Okoboji Lake at all. They also reported that the Indians had made good their escape across the Big Sioux River. By the way, this company of United States troops was under command of Captain Barnard E. Bee, who, at the breaking out of the civil war, joined the Confederates and was made a brigadier general, and was killed at the first battle of Bull Run. When it was learned that the Indians had made their escape, it was not deemed necessary that the
84 DICKINSON COUNTY • IOWA
whole force should go over to the lakes. Indeed, tliat would have been almost impossible, anyway. The supplies were nearly exhausted and the water was at its highest.
After consultation with his subordinates, Major Williams decided to turn back with the main body, while a party of tAventy-three were detailed under tli'e command of Captain Johnson and Lieutenant Maxwell to proceed to the lakes for the purpose of burying the dead and gaining what informa- tion they could.
Some accounts place the strength of this party at twenty- five or twenty-six, but twenty-three was the actual number. Their names were as follows :
Captain J. C. Johnson, Lieutenant John N. Maxwell.
Privates — Henry Carse, William E. Burkholder, .William Ford, 11. E. Dalley, O. C. Howe, George P. Smith, O. S. Spencer, C. Stebbins, S. Van Cleve, R. IT. WMeelock, R A. Smith, William A. l)e Foe, B. F. Parmenter, Jesse Adding- ton, P. McCormick, J. M. Thatcher, AVilliam P. Wilson, Jonas Murray, A. Burtch, William K. Laughlin, E. D. Kellogg.
In the list given to the public by Caj^tain Pichards, the name of William De Foe does not apj^ear, Init it is pretty cer- tain that he was a member of the party. Captain Richards himself volunteered to go and started with the rest, but upon reaching the river found that he could not cross his pony over, and so he and one other mounted man turned back. It was in this way that the number was reduced to twenty-three, while the original order was for twenty-five. This party took \\\^ their line of March towards the lakes on the morning of the second day of April, carrying with them two days' rations, and it was then very uncertain when they would get any more. They arrived at the Thatcher cabin about three o'clock P. M.. and immediately entered upon the work they had to do. Th-j
THE BURIAL PARTY 85
bodies of l^oble and Rjan were found back of the cabin and were the first ones buried. It will be remembered that Mr. Ryan was one of the men who came through from Hampton with Luce and Thatcher, and that he got through on the even- ing of the seventh, just in time to be killed, while Thatcher, by reason of his cattle giving out, was obliged to lay over and rest them a short time. This delay saved his life.
CHAPTER VII.
THE BURIAL PREPAKATIONS FOR THE RETURN
THE PARTY DIVIDES THE STORM ADVEN- TURES OF THE PARTY THAT REMAINED BEHIND.
HE PARTY camped that night at the Thatcher cabin. The old cook stove liad been left standing in place iin- distnrbed. This the boys ntilized at once and fell to work cooking their supper. After going into camp, a small detachment of the party, including Thatcher, started oni: on a stroll and went as far as the Howe cabin, where in addi- tion to the members of the Howe familv, they found the bodies of the two cliildren, Thatcher's and J^oble's. They had prob- ably been taken that far with their mothers, who, it will bo remembered, the Indians had Avith them as prisoners. The boys brought the body of Thatcher's child back to the cabin and buried it that night near the head of the ravine, west of the cabin. The ISToble child was left where it was found and buried next day with the Howe family. The night was passed in the Thatcher cabin. It could not have been over fourteen by twenty feet in size and no loft, and yet the twenty-three men managed to dispose of themselves so as to pass the night in comparative comfort. They were on the move early the next morning and, after dispatching their scanty breakfast, started for the Howe cabin, about a mile and a quarter west. Upon arriving there Captain Johnson divided his command into three parties. One was to remain and bury the bodies found there. This party was under the immediate command of Captain Johnson himself. The second, under command of Lieutenant Maxwell, was to proceed to the Mattock place and bury those found there, while the third^ under the direction
BURYING THE DEAD 87
of R. U. iWheelock, w.as detailed to find, if possible, the wagon with supplies that Howe and Wheeloek had abandoned on the prairie the night they reached there and discovered the massa- cre, on their former trip. The Captain's force commenced work at once. One spade and one shovel to each party were all the workinff tools that could be found. iWith these thev dua" a grave about six or seven feet square and about thirty inches deep. In this grave were buried the bodies of nine persons, as follows : Mrs. Millie Howe ; Jonathan Howe, a grown-up son, and Sardis Howe, a grown-up daughter; five younger children of Mr. Howe, and the child of Mr. and Mrs. N'oble, which, as has been before stated, had probably been brought that far with its mother before being killed by the Indians. There is a discrepancy between the actual facts and all accounts so far published relative to the number massacred at the Howe cabin. The number given by Mrs. Sharp in her book, as well as other published accounts, give it as "Mrs. Howe, a grown- up son, a growni-up daughter and four younger children." When the bodies were disinterred for reburial at the time of the erection of the monument, there were certainly nine bodies found in that grave, and they can only be accounted for as above stated. There were no children found at the Thatcher cabin_, and Thatcher himself identified his child found at the Howe cabin, and the men with him assisted him in carrying it back to his own place, where it was buried as before stated, near the head of the ravine west of the house.
It was well towards noon when this work was completed. In the meantime the other burial party, under Maxwell, proceed- ed at once to the Mattock place. A short time before their arrival there they found the headless body of Joel Howe on the ice. Here is another discrepancy in which ascertained facts differ from the usually accepted accounts. Henry Dal- ley, of Webster City, who is the only member of that party
88 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
whose whereabouts is now known, insists that when they found the body of Mr. Howe they carried it to the Mattock place and buried it in the same grave Avith tlie Mattock fam- ily and the others that were found there. He says the recol- lection of that circumstance is the most, vivid and distinct of anything that transpired on the trip and that he cannot be mistaken about it. The usually accepted account is that Mr. Howe's body "was taken to the shore by those wdio found it and buried on a bluff some distance southwest of his house.
It will be remembered the party had no provisions except the lunch they brought Avith them from their camp the morn- ing before, and that was now exhausted. The party under Wheelock, consisting of five men, started~at once in search of the abandoned wagon, w^hich they found without difficulty among the sloughs that form the source of Spring Run, to- gether with the supplies, all safe as they had left them three weeks before. They took Avhat they could conveniently carry of flour, pork, coffee and sugar, and started back, joining the other parties at the Mattock place, reaching there just as they had finished digging the grave and were gathering up the bodies for burial. As has been stated, here was the only place that show^ed signs of any resistance having been made, and that has already been described. There were eleven bodies found here and buried. As identified by Thatcher and Wilson at the time, they w^ere as follows: James Mattock, his wife and the three oldest children, Robert Madison, Doc- tor Harriott, Bert Snyder and Joseph Harshman. Right here comes in a discrepancy that has never been explained and probably never will. Mrs. Sharp maintains that the bodies of Luce and Clark were found later and buried near the out- let of East Okoboji, they having been' w^aylaid in their attempt to warn the other settlers. All accounts agree that eleven bodies were buried here. The writer found one body, that of
THE COMMAND DIVIDES 89
a twelve-jear-old boj, about a month later and assisted in burying it, and if one perished in the flames this makes thir- teen to be accounted for. Who were they ? Seven of the ^Vlat- tock family, Madison, Harriott, Snyder, Harshman and ,two others. Even on the theory that none perished in the burning- cabin, there is one more than can be accounted for. Was there one or two strangers stopping at either the Mattock or Granger cabin of whom no account was ever given ? It is not strange that an occasional discrepancy is found. The only Avonder is that thev are not far more numerous.
From here the party went to the Granger cabin and found the dead body of Carl Granger, which was buried east of the cabin, near the bank of the lake. From there the whole force went to Gardner's, where were found six bodies, as follows : Mr. and Mrs. Gardner, Mrs. Luce, the young son of Mr. Gard- ner and the two children of Mr. and Mrs. Luce. These were buried in one grave a short distance southeast of the house. This finished the work of burial. There was no lumber he^'c with which to make coffins, and no time to do it if there had been, and all that could be done was to dig at each place one grave wide enough to contain the bodies found there, put them in as they were found, cover them with prairie hay and then with dirt. One singular fact which was particularly noted at the time was that no scalps had been taken. Many of the accounts that have been published state that a part of the vic- tims were scalped. This is a mistake. The matter was thoi-- oughly investigated and fully talked over that night in camp, and Messrs. Howe, Wheelock and Maxwell and others unite in the statement that no scalps were taken.
After finishing their work the tired .and hungry men camped for the night. Some of the party had seen Mr. Gardner bury a few potatoes in a box under the stove the fall before. These were found and roasted by a campfire. These, with the small
1
90 DICKINSON COUNTY -. IOWA
amount of j)rovisions wliicli had been l^roiiiilit from the wagon on tlie prairie, constitnt('(l their stock of supplies. The next morning, which was the fourth of April, was foggy and misty, and the indications portemhMl a cnniing storm. ,Whih> tlic boys were preparing breakfast, tlie qifestion of the return trij) was discussed. A majority were in favor of striking right out in a southeasterly direction, in as straight a line as possible, for the Irish ( 'oloiiy, while the others .argued that the distance was too great and the route too uncertain to do it with safety, and insisted on going back by the same route they came, which was by Estherville and Emmet. And more, they argued the weather was so threatening that if a storm came up the party was liable to be dividc<l and ]iossib]y souie miglit be lost on the prairie.
After breakfast the two ])arties were as far apart as ever, when Captain Johnson, seeing no prospect of coming to an agreement, gave the word to form a line. After the men had fallen in he gave the further order, "All who favor starting at once across the prairie, step three paces to the front; the rest stand fast.'' Sixteen advanced to the front, including Captain Johnson, Lieutenant Maxwell, Mr. Burkholder and thirteen others. Seven remained in their places. The names of these seven were: O. C. Howe, E.. IT. Wheelock, B. F. Parmenter, William K. Wilson, Joseph M. Thatcher, Asa Burtch and E. A. Smith. What little provision was left in camp was speedily packed and the ])arty made ready to depart at once. Just as the main party were starting away, Captain Johnson and Mr. Burkholder turned back to where Messrs. ITowe, Wheelock and B. A. Smith were standing and urged that they change their minds and go with them. They insisted that there was no evidence that the Indians had left the vicin- ity of the lakes, and that so snnill a ])arty were taking their lives in their hands bv staving there alone. On the other hand.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE RETURN 91
Howe and Wheelock endeavored to convince Captain Johnson that the danger in going was far greater than in staying; that there was more to be feared from the coming stomn than from the Indians. The seven who remained behind offered to go with the others if they wonhl change their ronte and go back by way of Estherville and the Des Moines River, but they abso- lutely refused to strike out across the prairie. Seeing thai; their arguments were of no avail and that the smaller party Avere determined to stay, they shook hands with them, bade them good-bye and started on the run to join their companions, who by this time were some distance away. It was their last 2;ood-bve.
For the particulars of that return trip the reader is referred to Lieutenant Maxwell's account, which Avill be found further on. The party that remained now turned their attention to their own comfort and safety. Their first requirement was provisions. As soon as the other detachment had left, they made their preparations to once more visit the wagon on the prairie, which they found without trouble, and after loading themselves with such supplies as they could carry, returned to camp. Before reaching camp they were overtaken by the blind- ing storm, which proved so disastrous to the other parties, but fortunately they were so far along on their return trip that they succeeded in reaching camp without accident, with three or four days' provisions. Up to this time the party had been (tamped out on the north side of the cabin. They now moved inside, and as the storm was increasing in violence, their next care was to lay in fuel enough to last until it was over. This they had no trouble in doing, and now it will be readily seen that thev were far more comfortablv situated than the main body, who were having their terrible experience on the banks of the Cylinder, so vividly described by Governor Carpenter, or the j)arty who had left that morning for the Irish Colony,
92 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
and were having sncli a bitter experience, as told by Lieutenant Maxwell, There was nothing now for the party to do l)ut to lake care of themselves the best they could until the storm was over. They were in a comfortable cabin, witli plenty of fuel and provisions for the present. Of course, they were at any moment liable to an attack by the Indians, provided the In- dians liad not all left. After securing their fuel, they barri- caded the door and window as well as they could, and then, removing some of the chinking, they made portholes on each side of the cabin ; being fairly well armed, they considered themselves comparatively safe.
Sunday night the storm abated and Monday morning it was clear and cold. That Sunday night Avas the coldest April nio;ht known in tlie historv of Iowa. On ^NFondav morninc' the party started for home. The ground was frozen where it was bare and where it was not the strong crust on the snow was capable of bearing up any ordinary load, so that the walking was good. On reaching the Des Moines, they found it frozen over so hard that they crossed it without difficulty and reached Granger's place, where they had left the main body five days before. It will be remembered that on coming up no teams could cross the river, consequently they all turned back with the main body of troops except the one owned by Howe and Wheelock. That was left here, and Markham and another person were left here to take care of it until they should return. The party decided to rest here another day. That night they were joined also by Jareb Palmer, who, instead of going down with the main body, had been up to Springfield again. Wed- nesday morning the whole party started down the river. They now had a team to carry their baggage and the walking was comparatively good. The weather remaining cold all of this time, the water had run down so that the small streams were crossed without much difficulty, and it was only such streams
START FOR FT. DODGE 93
as Jack Creek and the Cylinder that offered any serious obsta- cles. The party rested another day at the Irish Colony, where they liad overtaken a portion of the Springfield refugees mak- ing their way down the river ; also Henry Carse, one of Max- well's men, who had frozen his feet the night they lay on the prairie after leaving the Gardner cabin.
Saturday morning they made another start and .arrived at Cylinder Creek a little after noon. The creek had fallen some but was still out of its banks, being nearly a quarter of a mile wide. The water w,as from one to two feet deep over the bottom, which was very level. The crossing of this stream was the most serious problem that the party had to solve on their way down. One man went ahead on horseback to try the route, then followed the teams with the wounded men and the women and children. The ground was a little higher ,at the bank of the stream than it was farther back, and at one place it w.as bare. On this knoll they all gathered to contrive some way to cross the river. An old wooden sled was found and a few pieces of driftwood. These were fastened together and the box taken off from one of the wagons and fastened to the raft. Two long ropes were then rigged, one to each side of the raft. The man on horseback then took one end of one of the ropes and swam his horse across the channel to the opposite bank, which was quite steep and comparatively high. (The course of the channel was distinguished by wil- lows growing on its banks.) He then dismounted, holding fast to the rope. Three or four men now ,took their places on the raft and the man that had ridden over slowly and care- fully pulled them across, the men on the other side holding the raft by the other rope to keep it from floating down stream. Communication now being established, and there being men enough on eac'.h side to handle the r,aft without delay, the wo- men, children and Avounded men were soon taken over. The
94 DICKINSON COUNTS - IOWA
teams were then swam over, ropes rigged to the ends of the wagon tongues and the wagons hauled over. Then came the baggage and hist of all the balance of the men.
This crossing took the entire .afternoon and the party reached Shippey's, two miles away, about sunilown, wet, cold and almost exhausted. Here they learned for the first time the terrible experience their comrades liad at the same j^lace nearly a week before them. From here the party proceeded on their way to Fort Dodge, wlhich they reached without further .ad- ventures than such as are incident to swimming swollen streams and living on short rations, which, in some instances, consisted of a handful of flour and a little salt, which they mixed up with water and baked over a campfire. A few of the party shot, dressed and broiled some muskrats and tried to make the rest believe they considered them good eating, but that diet did not become popular.
In the foregoing account the writer has been confined mostly to what passed under his own personal observation, for more extended particulars the reader is referred to the official re- port of Major Williams, and to the accounts written by Lieu- tenant Maxwell and Governor Carpenter. These two papers have been selected from others equally readable and reliable for the reason that Maxwell, being in cliarge and taking notes at the time, would be supposed to have a clearer recollection of events than would otherwise be possible, wdiile Governor Carpenter's account of the return trip of the main body will be taken at its face value.
CHAPTEK VIII.
EXTRACT TROM LIEUTENANT MAXWELL^S ACCOUNT
OF THE EXPEDITION BURYING THE DEAD — -THE
PARTY DIVIDES CAPTAIN JOHNSON AND FIF- TEEN OTHERS START ACROSS THE PRAIRIE
THEIR TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS JOHNSON AND
BURKHOLDER PERISH ON THE PRAIRIE GOVER- NOR CARPENTER^S ACCOUNT OF THE RETURN TRIP
OF THE MAIN BODY TERRIBLE EXPERIENCE ON
CYLINDER CREEK HEROISM OF THE OLD MAJOR
EXTRACT FROM LAUGHLIn's ACCOUNT.
E LEFT Fort Dodge March twenty-fourth, but owing to our commissary being hindered in procuring transpor- tation, we were obliged to camp at Badger Creek, not more than four or five miles north. We now began to realize that we were soldiers. Cold, wet and hungry, we built up large campfires, provided a hasty meal, dried our clothes as well as we could, and without tents lay down and slept soundly. "On the morning of the twenty-fifth we resumed our marcji, crossing the east branch of the Des Moines without ditficulty, and camped at Dakota City. The twenty-sixth the road be- came more and more difficult. In some places the snow Avas so deep that it was necessary to break a road before our teams could pass through. In other places it had drifted in the ra-- vines to the depth of eight or ten feet. The only way to pro- ceed was to wade through, stack arms, return and unhitch the teams, attach ropes to them and draw them through ; then per- form a similar operation with the wagons. This performance took place every mile or two, and by such progress we were two days in reaching McKnig^it's Point on the east bank of the west branch of the Des Moines River, tw^elve miles from Dakota City. On the twenty-seventh we camped at McKnight's Point.
"On the night of the twenty-sixth the command camped out on the prairie, but a detail under Captain D^incombe had gone ahead to look out fhe road to the Point. Duncombe had been
90 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
ill during the day, and be became so exhausted that he had to be carried into camp, running a very close risk of losing his life.
'^Resuming our march on the twenty-eighth, we camped that night at Ship^^ey's, on Cylinder Creek. Sunday, the twenty- ninth, we reached the Irish Colony, Einmet County^ and were all cared for by the inhabitants who had assembled for protec- tion in case of an attack, but were greatly relieved when we came in sight. The morning of the thirtieth found the com- mand greatly refreshed, having butchered ,a cow that had been wintered on prairie hay. The beef was not exactly porter- house steak, but it was food for hungry men. We left our teams, which were nearly exhausted, and impressed fresh ones. We camped that night near Big Island Grove. At this place the Indians had kept a lookout in a big cedar tree that grew on an island in the middle of the lake, and their campfires were still burning. A platform had been built in this tree, forty feet from the ground, from which one could easily see twenty miles. The place had probably been deserted several days but the fire was still burning. One Indian doubtless kept watch here alone, leaving in a northwesterly direction when he abandoned the place.
"The morning of the thirty-first the command moved out early. Ten men were sent forward as scouts. When about eight miles out we met the Springfield refugees, the Churches, Thomases, Carver and oHhers. We went into camp, and our surgeon dressed the wounds of the fleeing party. On the morning of April first Major Williams sent an escort with the Spring- field people back to the Irish Colony, and proceeded north- Avest, with an advance guard ahead. We camped that night at Granger's Point, near the Minnesota line. Here we learned that the United States troops from Fort Ridgley were camped at the head of Spirit Lake and that the Indians had fled to Owl Lake, some eighteen miles awav. As we were on foot and the Indians supposed to be mounted, there would not be any chance of overtaking them.
"A council was held and it was decided to return the main part of the commarid to the Irisji Colony and wait for the rest to come in. Twenty-six men were selected, including those having friends at the lake, to cross the river, proceed to thar point to bury the dead, reconnoiter, and see if there were any
EXTRACT FROM MAXWELL's ACCOUNT 97
who had escaped the Indians. I was one of the party. On the morning of tlhe second of April, under Capt. J. C. Johnson, Ave crossed the Des Moines lliver and took a south and west direction. The traveling was much better than it had been since we left Fort Dodge. It was warm and clear. About two o'clock we struck East Okoboji Lake on the southeast shore. The first cabin we came to was that of Mr. Thatcher. Here we found the yard and prairie covered with feathers. Two dead men were lying at the rear of the house, both bodies be- ing numerously shot in the breast. They evidently had been unarmed and everything indicated tjhat they had been sur- prised. The rest of the family had been killed in the house or taken prisoners, and everything indicated that there liad l>een no defense. From here we went to Mr. Howe's, where we found seven dead bodies. There were one old and one middle aged woman, one man and four children — all brutally murdered. It seemed that the man had been killed by plac- ing the muzzle of a gun against his nose and blowing his head to pieces. The other adult had been simply shot. The chil- dren had been knocked in the head.
''We divided into parties to bury the dead, camping for ihe night near the residence of the Howe family. Old Mr. Howe was found on the third of April, some distance from the house on the ice, shot through the head. We buried him on a bluff southwest of the place, some eighty rods from the house. The next place was Mr. Mattock's. Here we found eleven dead bodies and buried them all in one grave, men, women and children. The ground was frozen and we could only make the grave about eighteen inches deep. It was a ghastly sight. The adults had been shot, but the children's brains had been knocked out, apparently by striking tlhem across their fore- heads with heavy clubs or sticks of wood. The brains of one boy about ten years of age, had been completely let out of his head, and lay upon the ground. Every one else shrank from touching them. I was in command and feeling that I would not ask another to do a thing from which myself revolted, I gathered up the poor scattered fragments upon the spade and placed them all together in the grave. About forty head of cattle had been shot at this place, the carcasses split open on the backs and tenderloins removed — all that the Indians cared to carry off. The house had been burned with one dead body
98 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
ill it at the time. At this place it seems to me that the only man who foiig^ht the Indians was Doctor Harriott, who had formerly lived at Waterloo. He made heroic defense, probably killing and wounding two or three Indians. He was falling hack toward Granger's, evidently defending the women and children, when he was finally shot himseli:". He still grasped his Sharp's rifle, which was empty and broken off at the breech, showing that he had fallen in a hand to hand fight. I have little idea that any other man about the lakes fired a gun at the Indians. It was sumply a surprise and butchery.
"From here we went to the Grangers', and found the dead body of one of the brothers of that name. He had been first shot and his head had been split open with a broad axe. Hfe and his brother had kept a small store, and "the Indians had taken everything away excepting some dozen bottles of strych- nine. We buried him near his own house. The next house was Gardner's. Here were the bodies of Mr. and Mrs. Gard- ner, one grown-up dauglhter, and two small children in the yard, and a ])aby in the house. We buried this family all in one grave, about two rods from the house. Tired and hun- gry we went into camp in a small grove at the rear of the house, with nothing to eat but potatoes.
"Some of our party had visited the lake in the fall and had seen Mr. Gardner bury two buSihels of potatoes in a box under his stove. These we found and roasted in the campfire. They lasted two days. On the morning of the fourth, we com- pleted our sad task, and without any food, turned our faces liomeward, taking a southeast course, hoping to reach the Irish (Jolony the same day. In the forenoon it was quite warm, melting the snow, and consequently traveling was very diffi- cult. We were obliged to wade sloughs waist deep or go miles around and run the risk of losing the course. iWe were wet to the shoulders and while in this fearful condition the wi,nd changed. About four o'clock a blizzard was upon us. In a short time our clothes were frozen stiff. Many of us cut holes in our boots to let the water out, and several pulled their boots off and were unable to get them on again. Up to this time the detachment had kept together. About sundown we came to a township corner placed there the year before. Laughlin and I wanted to be governed by the pit. While we were talk- ing, part of the detachment came up and passed us some dis-
REACH THE RIVER 99
tance to the right. Those who happened to be with Laughlin and me stopped on .a piece of dry ground close to township corner, determined to remain near it all night, lest in the night we should lose our course as shown by the corner. We marched back and forth all night long. When a comrade would fall others would help him to his feet, encourage and force him to keep moving as the only hope, for no living being could survive an hour in such a storm without hard exercise. Captain Johnson's party, led by a trapper, became a little sep- arated from us by a. slough, where they found a dry place and commenced pacing back and forth as we were doing. They were within speaking distance of us. Thpy stayed there all night, but in the morning took a southeast direction, while we went east. They seemed to have perfect confidence in the old trapj>er's knowledge of the country.
"During the night some of our men begged to lie down, claiming that it was useless to try to keep up any longer as the ice on their clothes gave them fearful annoyance. But the more hopeful would not consent to anyone giving up. In this distressed condition we traveled up and down that path all night.
"One man by the name of Henry Carse from Princeton, Illinois, had taken his boots off in the evening and wrapped his feet in pieces of blanket. He succeeded in getting along as well as the rest during the night, but in the morning when we went on the ice to break a road, his feet got wet .and the wraps wore out. I staid with him until within three or four miles of the Des Moines River, when I became satisfied he could not get there, as his mind had failed. Every time I would bring him up he would turn away in any direction. Finally, Henry Dalley came along and succeeded in getting him "to the river. The river w,as three miles from the Irish Colony. We had no matches, but some of the party knew how to strike a fire by saturating a damp wad with powder and shooting it into the weeds. In this way we succeeded in striking a fire. Henry Carse was now unconscious and the blood was run- ning from his mouth ! We cut the rags from his feet .and the skin came off the soles of his feet with the rags.
"As soon as the fire was well going, Laughlin and I. being the least frozen, determined to try and cross the river and reach the settlement for help. We walked to the middle of the
3i5255B
100 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
river, laid poles over the weak ice aud crawled over. We reached the Irish Colony and sent hack help to the rest of the l)artj. I went to sleep soon after entering a warm room and did not awaken until the next day, when I took some nourish- ment aud started on to overtake the command under Major Williams which had been detained at Cylinder Creek. In the morning C. C. Carpenter tried to get a guide to go and help search for Johnson and his friend Burkholder, but failed. As we left tihe Colony I looked back and saw Carpenter going down the river to see if they had struck the river below. At Cylinder Creek the party broke up into squads, each reaching his home as best he could, and all of us more or less demoral- ized. Laughlin and I came by the way of Fort Dodge, while Frank Mason and some of tlie others came across north of here. Most of us had our ears and feet frozen, but we only lamented the loss of the slain settlers, and our comrades Johnson and Burkholder, whose precious lives had been given for the relief of the helpless. But it was ahvays a wonder to me that we did not leave the bones of more of our comrades to bleach with these on those wild and trackless prairies."
Concluding jjortion of Governor C. C. Carpenter's address on the same occasion :
"The third day after commencing our return march, we left Medium Lake, in a hazy, cloudy atmosphere, and a drizzling rain. By the time we had reached Cylinder Creek, beneath the descending rain overhead and the melting suoav beneath our feet, the prairies were a flood of water. On arriving at Cylinder Creek we found the channel not only full, but the water covering the entire bottom bordering the creek to a depth of from three to four feet. When we found that it would be impossible to cross ,at a point where the road intersected the. creek, we resolved to send a party up the stream to see if a better crossing could not be found. But in less time than I have occupied in telling this story the wind began blowing from the north, the rain turned to snow and every thread of clothing on the entire command was saturated with water and our clotihing began to freeze to our limbs. I had still not given up the hope of either crossing the stream or finding a more comfortable place to camp, and await the result of the now freezing and blinding storm. So with one or two
ACCOUNT OF GOV. CARPENTER ' 101
others I followed down the creek a mile or more, until we came to the bluffs overlooking the bottoms bordering the Des Moines. I -had hojjed we might discover some elevated ridge through the bottom, over which we could pass and reach the timber that fringed the river. But on reaching the bluffs and looking out over the bottom land which fell back from the river from one to two miles on either side to their base, it was a wide waste of water. So we concluded our only hope was to remain right Avhere we were until the storm abated.
''On getting back to the road we found our comrades im- provising a cover by taking the wagon sheet and one or two tents which we had along, and stretching them over the wagon wheels and staking them do\vn as best they could to the frozen ground, leaving a small opening on the south side for a door- way. This done, we moved the animals to the south side of our tent, on ground sloping to the south, in order to afford them .all the protection' possible. Then we put all our blankets to- gether, made a common bed upon the ground, and all crawled into it without removing our clothes, every thread of which was wet, and most of which was frozen as stiff as boards. There we lay through that long Saturday night. The air outside was full of fine snow. At different times during the night three or four of us crept out of our nests and went around our tents, banking it with snow on the north, east and west sides. And when the fierce winds would blow the banking away so as to open a new air hole we would repeat the oj>er- ation. To .add to the horrors of the situation during this more than thirty-six hours of absolute imprisonment, we were with- out food.
"By daylight, on Monday morning, we were on the move, and to our joy found the ice, which had formed on Cylinder Creek the day before, would bear us up. The severity of the weather cannot be better attested than by stating the fact that all the men, our wagon, loaded with the little baggage of the camp, and the few horses belonging to the command, were crossed upon this bridge of ice with perfect ease .and safety. Since that experience upon Cylinder Creek, I have marched with armies engaged in actual war. During three and a half years' service, the army with which I was connected marched from Cairo to Chattanooga, from Chattanooga to Atlanta, from Atlanta to the sea, from the sea through the Carolinas
102 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
to Kiclimoiid. These campaigns were made under southern suns and in the cold rains and not infrequent snow storms of southern winters. They were sometimes continued without intermission three or four days and nights in succession, with only an occasional halt to give weary, foot-sore soldiers a chance to boil a cup of coffee. But I- never in those weary years experienced a conflict with the elements that could he compared with the two nights and one day on the bank of C'vlinder C^reek.
"After crossing the creek on Monday morning we went to the Shippey. house, some two miles south, where we cooked our breakfast. From this time forward no order of march was observed, but each man found his way home to suit him- self. I followed down the river, in company with several comrades, to McKnight's Point, where we got our dinner. After dinner Lieutenant Stratton, Smith E. Stevens and my- self determined we would go on to Dakota, in Humboldt County,- that afternoon and evening, .and accordingly started. We had gone but a short distance when George W. Brizee came on after «us. We tried as delicately as possible to dis- suade him from attempting to go further that evening. But go he would, and so we pushed on. Xiglit found us on the wide prairie some eight or ten miles southeast of McKnight's Point and .at least eight miles from Dakota.
"It became very dark, so that it was difficult to follow the track. Soon Brizee began to complain, declaring he could go no further and would have to take his chances on the prairie. As I had been over the road several times, Stratton and Stevens suggested that they w^ould depend upon me to guide them through ; so I kept ahead, looking and feeling out the path. I could hear them encouraging Brizee, while he per- sistently declared his inability to go any further. Stevens fin- ally took his blanket and carried it for him, and soon after Stratton was carrying his gun. I now told them that Henry Cramer and Judge Hutchinson lived about .a mile south of our road, and some three miles west of Dakota, and that we would go in there and spend the night. Brizee thought he could pull through that far. At last I thought we had arrived at a point nearly opposite of Cramer's, and we left the road and struck across the prairie. We had scarcely started before Brizee began to aver we were lost; that I, like a fool, was
carpenter's account continued 103
leading them a wild-goose chase, and that we would all have to lie on the prairie. I kept on, however, fixing my course as well as possible, and .shouting back to 'come on, that we Avere all right.' Finally we were greeted by the barking of a dog, and in a few moments were in Mr. Cramer's house. After Cramer and his wife had gotten out of bed and made us a bunk on the floor, and (Cramer had pulled off Brizee s boots, Brizee began to repeat in various forms the adventures of the evening, emphasizing the persistency and pluck it had required in us to pull through ; and the hearty manner in which he commended my skill as a guide, over a trackless j)rairie, was hardly consistent with the upbraiding whilst we were plodding along in the darkness. The next morning Mrs. Cramer prepared the best breakfast I ever ate. My mouth waters today in memory of the biscuits which were piled up on that breakfast table. I have often thought since that thor<3 could have been but little left for the family dinner. That evening found us in Fort Dodge and our connection with the expedition had ended.
"I have frequently thought in later years of the good disci- pline preserved in a command where there was absolutely no legal power to enforce authority. This fact is really the highest compliment that could be paid the officers. Had they not possessed the characteristics which secured and maintained the respect of these men no shadow of discipline could have been enforced. On the contrary, during those trying days, on the march and in the bivouac, there was complete order. Of the three captains, two are living — Messrs. Richards and Dun- combe. Their sul)sequent careers in civil life have been but a fulfillment of the prophecy of the men who followed them through the snow banks of northwestern Iowa in 1857. With Captain Johnson I was but little acquainted, but I watched him with interest and with admiration during the few days of our march. He was a man of fine physique, was deliberate, quiet almost to reticence, with a handsome face and manly eye. In short, from what I saw of him, I may s,ay that the marble and brass, which we have come here today to unveil in commemoration of him and his company's virtues and hero- ism are not of a more solid and enduring character than were ihe noble and generous traits of his nature. His cruel death and that of his noble and promising comrade, William E. Burk-
104
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
WILLIAM E. BURKHOLDER.
holder was the one circumstance which veiled the results of the expedition in a lasting sorrow.
"The First Lieutenant of Company A, Franklin E. Strat- ton, was perhaps more fully endowed with all the qualities which constitute a soldier than any other man in the com- pany, or perhaps of the command. He was quiet, prompt, un- complaining;, methodical, and in the line of his duty exacting. Remembering my comradeship with him on the Spirit Lake Expedition when he went in the War of the Rebellion, I prophesied for him a successful career. He rose to be the Colonel of his regiment, and died a few years ago a Captain of the regular army.
"But time fails me to name .all who deserve honorable men- tion. I cannot close, however, without paying a few words of tribute to Major William Williams, who commanded the exDedition. Having been the sutler of the battalion of reg- ulars which was stationed at Fort Dodge, he knew something of the movements ,and sustenance of troops. H«e had the abil- ity to make that knowledge available. There was a quiet,
LAUGHLIN TELLS HOW THE PARTY DIVIDED 105
confident air in his deportment that commanded respect, and he moved those undisciplined men as quietly and as orderly as would have been possible by .an experienced soldier. I have never thought that full justice had been done to the man who led this expedition, and who in many ways proved his interest and faith in the pioneers of northwestern Iowa. So I have turned aside, here and now, to speak a tardy word in recogni- tion of his many noble qualities. He was born in Westmore- land County, Pennsylvania, December 5, 1796, and died at Fort Dodge, February 26, 1874, and at the date of these events was in the sixty-second year of his age. He was reared a banker, and for years was cashier of the branch of the Ex- change Bank of Pittsburg, located at Holidaysburg. But he had been an open-handed, generous giver; had no innate love of gain; so he lost money instead of making accumulations, and sought the great iWest to rebuild his broken fortunes. ]\'()v/ he was a man well advanced in years. It was not easy for younger men to complain of hardships of the march when, day by day, they saw him resolutely pushing forward.
"The action of Hamilton County in thus inscribing his name upon an enduring tablet is a silent protest against the neglect and oversight of his own county, and the town which was the idol of his affection. Emerson has said that 'they who forget the battles of their country will have to fight them over again.' So they who forget the unselfish deeds of their countrymen will themselves be unworthy of a place in history. ISText to a hero is the man who can appreciate a hero. All honor then to the citizens of a county that in these 'piping times of peace' can pause for a day and step out of the busy channel of com- merce to gather some of the names of a generation of self^ sacrificing pioneers into history's golden urn."
A few extracts from Mr. Laughlin's account written for the same occasion as the others will make some points a little plainer, especially as to how the party came to divide up .and how they got together again after crossing the river.
The Major's parting injunction was, "Boys, keep together, whatever happens." But this advice was easier given than followed. The first division w.as at the Gardner cabin when the party of seven refused to venture across the prairie over
106 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
a route which none of tlie party knew anything about, and insisted on returning by the same route they went up, which was to strike the river at Emmet, cross there and go down on the east side. The second division was when the party reached Mud Creek, and is told by Mr. Laughlin as follows :
"About noon we came to a lare-e stream and had to follow up and down some time before finding a crossing. Two of our men, Robert McCormick and Owen Spencer, went far above and crossed and separated from us, but finally succeeded in getting throug'h to the colony in safety. * * * Late in the afternoon we came to some small lakes with some scatter- ing trees on the opposite side. By this time the wind changed suddenly and it began to grow colder. * * * The lake was apparently between us and the course we ought to take and we followed close around the shore. Off to the west side lay .a large marsh covered with tall grass. Those in advance passed between marsh and lake and succeeded in getting around, when we discovered that Captain Johnson, Burk- holder, Addington, George Smith and one other (Jonas Mur- ray), five men in all, had dropped off in our rear and were going around the marsh. We expected they would return to us when they got around, but as it was growing dark and we could still see them on high ground beyond, we thought best to try and go to them, as Major Williams' parting advice was 'stick together, boys,' but they soon passed out of our sight into the darkness. We then retraced our steps, passed the south end ( f the lake, and traveled directly east. * * * We traveled until about nine o'clock, when we halted, fi'iding we v/ere mak- ing but little headway, having to meander ponds and wade streams that were fast freezing, and decided to go no further until morning. Soon the most of us were tumbled down in a promiscuous heap, lying close to keep one another w.arm, on the naked, burned prairie. Our pants were a sheet of ice. Some had blankets, but many only their wet clothes.
"Lieutenant Maxwell and myself did lot lie down during that terrible night, but kept tramping around and occasionally rousing the sleepers and making them stir around to keep from freezing. I expected we would all be frozen before mornin.g. I had taken my socks off the day before and wrung
HOW THE PARTIES DIVIDED
107
Ihem out and carried them in my pocket and as soon .as we hu'led I pulled oif my boots, replaced my .=;ocks arid put (in my boots again. I thus saved my feet and I got through without freezing any j)art. The following morning the Sun was clear and we were in sight of timber directly east, eight or ten miles away. I was among the last to leave our camping ground. I ren'ie}jnber picking up one empty provision sack au'l following on. I soon overtook Mr. Carse, the oldest and best clad man in our party, having double mackinaw blankets ami a fur over- coat. He was on the sunny side of a gopher hill trying to put on his boots w(hich he had pulled off at night. I passed him
108 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
without a thought that they were frozen so that he could not get them on. The ponds and also the streams where there was not much current were frozen, so they bore our weight. Most of the men made a bee line, wading streams, running slush ice, but I was more fortunate, being long and light; by seek- ing places that were iced over and cra>vling at full length* I got over without getting wet. Elias Kellogg and myself were first getting to the timber. T immediately went about starting .a fire. I had no matches and neither had the others. My gun was empty and my powder dry, so I put a charge of powder in my gun and loaded with some cotton from out of my vest lining. I discharged it into soiue rotten wood, which caught, and by pouring on more powder and with vigorous blowing I succeeded in starting a fire.
"Lieutenant Maxwell was among the first to get to the tim- ber, .and by the time we got our fire well to going most of the boys had straggled in. Mr. Carse came in last, led by Henry Dally, a mere bo}^ poorly clad, whom Mr. Carse had b<'friended by taking' him under his double blankets that night. ■ Carse had his boots in his hands and was. ill and delirioiLS. The soles of his feet were worn out walking on the frozen ground. Kellogg was the next object of attention. »He had seated him- self by a tree and was almost helpless and unconscious of his misery. We had to .arouse him and cut his frozen overalls away. Had he been left alone he "would jbrobably have never risen from his condition. With a good fire we were soon warmed. * * * Xhe river had to be crossed. It was high iind full of floating ice, but we got some long poles and with this help crossed from one cake of ice to another .and reached the other side. * * * ]v^o sooner was the advance party over than the others all followed, and when we gained the open ground on the other side, we could see the colony as con- jectured, and footsore and weary as we were, we soon made the distance. We found Major Williams and a part of the men there waiting for us, with much anxiety. Major Williams had made preparations for us. Fresh beef from the poor set- tlers' poorer oxen was cooked and ready. * * * The next morning Smith, Addington and Murray came. They had been to another cabin further on, and finding some provision, had stayed all night. They stated that they had separated from Captain Johnson and Burkholder early the previous morning;
laughlin's account concluded 109
that tliey had taken their boots off at night .and they were frozen so they coukl not get them on, and while they were cutting up their blankets and getting them on their feet they had disagreed as to the course to be taken. Pulling off their boots was a fatal mistake. To reach the place where their bones were found eleven years afterwards, they must have traveled all that day and part of the next night, and have lain down together in the sleep that knows no awakening."
From the foregoing extract it will be noticed that the way in which the party broke up and the members became separated was about as follows : First, Spencer and McCormick left the main body when they reached Mud Creek in Lloyd township, they going up the creek to find a better crossing. Where they crossed or how they crossed the Des Moines is not now known, but they were the first to reach the settlement. The next break was late in the afternoon, when on reaching a large marsh the main body passed it on the east, while Johnson, Burkholder, Smith, Addington and Murray passed to the west of it. They did not come together again that night, but were within hailing distance of each other. Murray was a trapper, had visited the lakes the year before and claimed to know some- thing of the country, but proved a poor guide. Johnson and Burkholder separated from the other three sometime in the forenoon of the second day, going southeast, about parallel with the Des Moines River. How Smith, Addington and Mur- ray got in has already been told, also the main body under Maxwell and Laughlin. The great wonder is that any of them lived through that terrible experience.
The October number of Annals of Iowa for 1898, contains several accounts of this trip written by different members of the expedition. Ex-Governor C. C. Carpenter, Hon. J. F. Buncombe, Captain C. B. Richards, Lieutenant J. K. Max- well, W. K. Laughlin, Michael Sweeney and Frank Mason are
110 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
(>ach represented in tliat publication. Harris Hoover also ^vrote an account which ?.ppe,ared in the Hamilton Freeman during the summer of 1857. He afterwards revised it and it was published in The Annals. These several accounts agree in all of the m.ain incidents, and yet each one "notices something that is overlooked bv the rest. Taking them collectively they give a full and intelligent summary of the facts of this the most remarkable exi^edition connected with the history of Iowa.
CHAPTER IX.
INKPADUTAH AT HERON LAKE OTHER BANDS
OF INDIANS AFFAIRS AT SPRINGFIELD THE
ATTACK AND DEFENSE A VIVID ACCOUNT BY
HON. CHARLES ALDRTCII ^HEROISM OF MRS.
CHURCH.
|TIE LAST mention made of Inkpadutah's band was that they were camped at Heron Lake preparatory to their attack on Springiiehl. This is so closely connected with the massacre at the lakes that the story of one is incom- plete without the other. According to Mrs. Sharp's account there were two other bands of Indians in addition to Inkpadutah's who were hovering .along the western border of Iowa and Minnesota. She says: "In the fall of 1S56 a small party of Indians came and pitched their tents in the neighborhood of Spring- field. There was also a larger band, under the chieftainship of Ishtahaba, or Sleepy Eye, encamped .at Big Island Grove on the same river."
The "Big Island Grove" here referred to is the same o(ne mentioned by Major Williams in liis official report, and also by Lieutenant Maxwell and Harris Hoover in their accounts of the expedition. It is none other than the grove on the north side of High Lake in Emmet County.
When Major Williams' force was on the march it was cur- rently reported that Sleepy Eye was encamped with a large body of Indians .at this grove, and as the expedition neared the place the scouts were doubled and extra precautions taken. Upon arriving there evidences were plenty of the recent occu- pation of the place by the Indians, but nothing to indicate the
112 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
presence of a large party. The lookout .and the abandoned campfire, mentioned by Lieutenant Maxwell, were there, also a canoe partly finished which the Indians were making from a black w.alnut log. Everything went to prove that Indians had been therCj but not in ISrge numbers, and it is highly jDrobable that the force under Sleepy Eye has been greatly exaggerated.
It is said that these Indians were on friendly terms with the whites during the winter. To h<5w great an extent they were concerned in the troubles that afterward occurred is not fully known, but that they knew of the massacre at the lakes and participated in the attack on Springfield and shared in the plunder is pretty generally believed, Mrs. Sharp, in referring to events preceding the attack, says :
''On the twentieth of March two strange and suspicious look- ing Indians visited (Wood's store and purchased a keg of pow- der, some shot, lead, baskets, beads and other trinkets. Each of them had a double barreled gun, a tomahawk and a knife, and one, a very tall Indian, was painted black — so said one who saw them. * * * Soon afterward Black Buffalo, one of the Springfield Indians, said to the whites that the Indians who were at the store told his squaw that they had killed all of the people at Spirit Lake."
Shortly after this the Springfield Indians left, but before going they told the whites that Inkpadutah's band had started for the Big Sioux and that there was no danger from them. During all of this time Inkpadutah was encamped at Heron Lake, preparatory to his attack on Springfield, which was made on Friday the twenty-seventh of March.
The settlement consisted of the iWood brothers, who were keeping a kind of general store and trading .alike with the Indians and whites, and the families of Mr. Thomas, Stewart, Wheeler, Doctor Strong, Doctor Skinner, Smith, and
AFFAIRS AT SPRINGFIELD 113
one or two others. Mr. Markham, after making the discovery of the massacre at the lakes, made his way to Springfield and was at the house of Mr. Thomas at the time of the .attack. It was he who carried the news of the massacre at the lakes and the people acted on his information in making preparations for defense and safety. On hearing of the trouhle at the lakes, several families congregated at the house of Mr. Thomas for mutual protection, and several other persons assembled at the cabin of Mr. Wheeler for the same purpose.
Two trusty messengers, Charles Tretts and Henry Chiffen, were dispatched to Fort Kidgley, with a petition setting forth the masisa<3re at the lakes, their defenseless condition and ask- ing for .aid. Fort Ridgley is located some seventy-five miles to the north of Jackson, and at that time there was no trail nor any settlement at any point on the route. They made the trip on snow shoes and it can easily be iiuagined that it was no picnic. They had not yet returned when the attack was made on the settlement, but were hourly expected. When the jjeople on the Des Moines first heard of the massacre at the lakes they were filled with anxiety and apprehension, but .as the time wore on and the attack failed to materialize they began to have some hopes that they would be spared, at least until they could receive government aid. Two "weeks had now passed since they had heard of the trouble, and during this time they had kept continually on the alert, determined to make what resistance they were able in case of an attack.
Opinion seems to have been somewhat divided as to the probability of an attack. The Wood brothers, with whom the Springfield Indians had done considerable trading during the winter, would not believe the reports of the massacre. They had also traded with Inkpadutah's band when on their w.ay down the Little Sioux the fall before, and scouted the idea of there being any danger. Indeed they carried this feeling to
114 DICKINSON COUNTY - loWA
such an extent that some of the settlers accused them of being in league with the Indians. So positive were they that there was no danger that, against the remonstrance of the settlers, they sold the Indians ammunition only a few days before the outbreak, receiving in payment money that had doubtless l>een taken from the victims of the Spirit Lake Massacre.
As before noted, the attack was made on the afternoon of the twenty-seventh of March. It seems that the uien of the party wlio were fortod nji at the Thomas cabin h.ad been cutting and hauling wood during the day and had come in about three o'clock in the afternoon for their dinners, and after eating dinner were sitting around the fire talking and smoking when the attack occurred, the details of which are given in the graj^hic account written by Hon, Charles Aldrich, which is given in the fol- lowing pages. Hlad the attack been made two hours earlier, while the men were in the timber at work, in all probability the entire settlement would have been wiped out.
The attack on Wood's place was doubtless made before that at Thomas'. Mrs. Sharp says : ''The confidence of William Wood in the friendship of the Indians proved altogether a de- lusion. He was one of the first who fell. It appears that after he was killed the Indians heaped brush upon his body .and set fire to it. His brother, George, had evidently attempted to escape, but was overtaken by the Indians in the woods and shot down." It will be remembered that the 'Wood brothers were the owners of the dry goods store robbed by the Indians. The Indians must have been divided into two parties, as Mr. Stew- art's and Mr. Thomas' places were attacked .about the same time. An Indian well known to the settlers, who had always pro- fessed to be friendlv, went to the home of Mr. Stewart and wanted to buy a hog. Mr. Stewart started to go with him to the pen, when concealed Indians fired on him, killing him instantly. The balance of Mr. Stewart's family were then dis-
THE ATTACK AND DEFENSE 115
patched, with the exception of the oldest child, a boy about eight years old, who escaped by hiding behind a log, where he remained until after the savages left. He then made his way to the Thomas cabin, arriving shortly after the Indians had been repulsed at that point.
The following article on the defense at Springfield, and the heroic conduct of John Bradshaw, and the bravery of Mrs. Church, was written by the Hon. Charles Aldrich and read by iiim before the meeting for inauguration of Memorial Tablet at Webster City, in August, 1887 :
"We have placed conspicuously on this beautiful tablet the names of Mrs. 'William L. Church and her sister. Miss Drusilla Swanger, with a high tribute to those heroines. Why we have done this I will briefly explain. Not many months before the massacre, the Churches had settled at Springfield, Minnesota, some fifteen miles from Spirit Lake, and about eight miles north of the Iowa line. They resided there when Inkpadutah's band so terribly raided the little settlement at Spirit Lake. Of this massacre Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp gives a full and most vivid narration in her book. At that time, in the absence of Mr. Church to this county (Hamilton), his wife was living in their log house with her two little boys and her sister. When the news came to this settlement of four or five families of the murders at Spirit Lake, the i3eoj)le assembled at the home of Mr. Thomas, one of the settlers, and prepared to defend themselves. This Avas what is called a double log house, quite a large building for that locality at that day, and standing in the margin of the oak grove, not far from the west branch of the Des Moines River. There were in the party Mr. Thomas, his wife and five chil- dren ; Mrs. Church, her two children and sister ; Mrs. Strong and two children. Miss Eliza Gardner, Jared Palmer, David Carver and John Bradshaw. * * * Just after they had assembled, two young men, whose names I have forgotten, volunteered to go on foot to Fort Ridgley, seventy-five miles away, and appeal for aid. Those who were left were well armed, reasonably pro- visioned, stout of heart and determined to make the best defense in their power if they should be assailed.
116 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
"A week had nearly passed when little Willie Thomas, aged nine, came running in, exclaiming that the boys were coming who had gone for the soldiers. This was good news, and the people rushed to the door, forming .a little group just outside. Sure enough two men were seen coming dressed like whites, but they were Indians in the clothing of meii Jiilled at Spirit Lake. Just then the main party of the Indians, who were approaching from another direction, fired a volley from a dozen pieces into the group of men, women and children near the door. Willie Thomas was shot through the head and fell to the ground ; Miss Swanger was shot through the shoulder, inflicting a severe flesh wound ; Thomas was shot through the left arm, which was broken and bled profusely ; Carver was shot in the body, and for a time suffered the severest pain.
"All except the wounded boy rushed into the house and speedily barricaded the doors and windows. In fact the poor boy seems to have been forgotten for the instant, but it mattered little in the result. The firing on both sides now became hot and frequent and continued so for two or three hours. Port- holes were made on the four sides of the house by removing the chinking from between the logs. Through these the besieged could plainly see the Indians without exposing themselves. Whenever ,an Indian showed himself he was fired upon and so they were held at bay. Several times, however, the red devils made a rush toward the house, which they wished to set on fire, but each time discretion proved the better part of valor and they fell back. During this time the condition of things in this remote little fortress can scarcely be imagined or described.
"Miss Swanger and Mr. Thomas were bleeding profusely from their wounds, while the little wounded boy lay shrieking and groaning outside. The little fellow lived about two hours, when death mercifullv ended his sufferings. At one time the poor mother feared her husband would bleed to death in spite of everything she could do, while the shrieks and groans of the dy- ing boy just outside the door could be distinctly heard. Miss Swanger at first bled very freely, but Mrs. Church stuffed her handkerchief under her sister's dress and so stopped the flow of blood, while Mrs. Thomas bound up her husband's arm and stopped the bleeding, which otherwise would have ended his life. Mrs. Church and Miss Gardner loaded the guns ,and kept watch at some of the portholes. At one time it was thought their
CHARLES ALDRICH'S ACCOUNT 117
bullets would be exhausted, and Misses Swanger and Gardner cast some from an old iron spoon.
*^Tlie fight went on until the dusk of evening was beginning to come on. It then happened that Mrs. Church and Miss Gard- ner were in one of the rooms watching while the men were in the other. They now saw .an Indian dodging behind a large oak tree. While here he kept peering out toward the house. JSTo man was handy to 'draw a bead' upon him and Mrs. Church jjicked up a shotgun heavily charged with buckshot and leveled it in that direction. Presently he stuck his head out again farther than before. Mrs. Church says, 'I plainly saw a large dark object by the sido of the tree, which I knew to be the head of an Indian, and at this I discharged the gun. I was terribly excited and fell back and cannot tell you whether I hit him or not. I certainly wanted to kill him.' Miss Gardner, who was watching the Indian, averred that she plainly saw him fall.
"In the account written at my instance for the Hamilton Freeman, by Jareb Palmer, who was one of the besieged, he states it as at fact that Mrs. Church killed the Indian. * * * A year or more later the body of an Indian was found upon a rude platform in a tree top, tree burial being the custom of the tribe. The body was then wrapped in a buifalo robe .and some white woman's feather pillow was under his head. What was left of this dusky brave was tumbled down upon the ground by the men of li. B. Martin's command, from our county. The skull was brought to me and I sent it to the Phrenological col- lection of Fowler and Wells, 'New York City. I saw it there some time later with a notice which had appeared in the Free- man pasted across the forehead. Upon the return of some of the men to the locality a few months later the tree was examined and part of the charge of buckshot was still imbedded in it near the spot where Mrs. Church had aimed and the other part had plainly passed on. It would thus seem to be settled as nearly as such an event can be proven that she killed one of the assail- ants.
"Immediately after this event the Indians ceased firing and left the place. * * *
"One of the settlers, a man n.amed Stewart, with his wife and three children, had been stopping at the Thomas house. Fort Thomas it really deserves to be called henceforth, but the poor wife and mother became insane through her fears of the In-
118
DICKINSON COUNTY
IOWA
Uiiy^ ^W. ^ yS/iAMj^
dians, and being in sucli a crowd of i>eople added to her discom- fort and mental trouble. Her husband finally concluded to return to their own liouse a mile or so distant, l)elieving- tihe danger had passed away. But the same band which had in- vested the Thomas house came to Stewart's. Thev called him to the door and shot him the instant he appeared. The fiends then murdered the insane mother and the two little girls. The boy, Johnny, who was eight or nine years of age, m,anaged to liide behind a log. The Indians plundered the cabin and soon
HEROISM OF MRS. CHURCH 119
left. The boj then fled to the double log house, where he was recognized and taken in at one of the windows.
^^The home of the Churches was also j)illaged and everything movable carried .away or destroyed. The other houses in the settlement shared the same fate. A span of horses was in the barn at the Thomas place, but the Indians took them away when they left. When darkness came at last, the besieged determined to start south toward the nearest settlement with an ox team and sled, which was the only means left them. The oxen were yoked, hitched to the sled upon which were placed the wounded, the little children and such provisions .and clothing as could be carried. The forlorn little party, with this poor means of locomotion, probably started near the iniddle of the night, traveling very slowly, as the ground was covered with snow. Mrs. Church and her sister each led or carried one of her little boys. The march was kept up until the oxen tired out, when there was a short rest. Progress was very slow and most weari- some for some two days. Finally on the third day they saw several men approaching from the south, whom they mistook for Indians.
"This was a trying time for the poor refugees. The men, who were rapidly advancing upon them, wore shawls, which made them look like Indians with blankets. Then it was evi- dent that they were well armed. Some of the women and chil- dren were wild with affright, and gave utterance to shrieks and lamentations. Two of the men were helpless from wounds, and another was not naturally an Indian fighter, though doubt- less brave enough. John Bradshaw thought his time had come, but far from flinching, he took their eight loaded guns and stack- ed them some rods in advance. He asked the other well men to stay with the women and children .and wounded and keep them from embarrassing him .and he would sell his life as dearly as possible. Thus the dauntless hero stood until he saw a sig- nal from the advancing party and knew they were friends. When the latter came up his face was pale as ashes, but no one doubted th.at he would have fought while life lasted. We can well imagine that men can be brave when surrounded by other brave men, whatever the odds. But what a grand figure was that of our Hamilton County Bradshaw, going out alone to yield up his life, as he supposed, in so hopeless .a fight with merciless savages. It seems to me that that was a scene for a
120 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
painter or sculptor, and that some time it will be placed upon canvas or in imperishable marble for tthe adornment of our magnificent Capitol. Where did you ever read of anything more grandly heroic ? The terrible alarm was turned in an instant into an abandonment of equally wild rejoicing, for the comers were a detachment from the -e^jpedition under Major Williams, and Mr. Church was with them. Mrs. Church and her young sister had worn their dresses off to the knees in walk- ing through the crusted snow, and their shoes were nearly gone. They were almost exhausted from the toilsome march, lack of food, exposure to the inclement weather, and the terrible .anxie- ties of the preceding week.
"But I need take no more time with this narrative. The Churches returned to this county, where they resided until the spring of this year (188Y), when they went to Washington Ter- ritory, whither two of their children and Miss Swanger (now Mrs. Gillispie) had preceded them. Mr. Church was also a soldier of the Union army as well as a veteran of the Mexican War. All who have known them will agree with me that the permanent record of their actions and sufferings, the heroism of these matchless women in our pioneer days, has been well deserved."
CHAPTEE X.
TROOPS FROM FORT RIDGLEY REACH SPRINGFIELD THEIR SUFFERING JUDGE FLANDRAu's AC- COUNT THE INDIANS START WEST THE PURSUIT
PURSUIT ABANDONED INDIANS REACH THE BIG
SIOUX TRAGIC DEATH OF MRS. THATCHER CROSS
THE BIG SIOUX AND MOVE WESTWARD C^MP VIS- ITED BY TWO AGENCY INDIANS THEY PURCHASE
MRS. MARBLE AND START BACK INKPADUTAH
SELLS MRS. NOBLE AND MISS GARDNER TO A YANK- TON MRS. NOBLE MURDERED BY ROARING CLOUD
THEY REACH JAMES RIVER THE YANKTON
CAMP ARRIVAL OF THREE INDIANS FROM THE
AGENCY THEY PURCHASE MISS GARDNER THE
RETURN TRIP ARRIVE AT THE AGENCY THE WAR
CAP THE JOURNEY TO ST. PAUL.
HE next day after the attack on the settlement and the day before the Indians broke camp at Heron Lake, and while the refugees were slowly making their way through snow and slush into Iowa, the messengers, who had been sent to Fort Ridgley for aid, returned, accompanied by a company of regular troops under the command of Captain Bee and Lieu- tenant Murray. Could they have arrived thirty hours earlier the Springfield massacre would have been prevented, and pos- sibly the savages brought to justice. But that was not to be. In point of suffering, hardships and privation the trip of this band of regulars from Fort Ridgley was the counterpart of that of Major Williams' volunteers from Fort Dodge, and on their arrival they were well nigh exhausted.
122 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Judge Flandrau, in writing of this expedition, says :
''The people of Springfiekl sent two young men to my .agency with the news of the massacre. They brought with them a sitatement of the facts as related by Mr, Markham, signed by some persons with whom 1 was acquainted. They came on foot and arrived at the agency on the eighteenth of March. The snow was very deep and was beginning to thaw, which made the traveling extremely difficult. When these young men arrived they were so badly attiicted with snow blindness that they could scarcely see at all and were completely worn out. I was fully satisfied of the truth of the report that mur- ders had been committed, although the details of course were very meager. I at once held a consultation with Colonel Alex- ander, commanding the Tenth United States Infantry, five or six companies of which were at Fort Ridgley. The Colonel, with commendable promptness, ordered Captain Barnard E. Bee with his company to proceed at once to the scene of the massacre and do all he could, either in the way of protecting the settlers or punishing the enemy.
"The country between the Minnesota liiver at Ridgley and Spirit Lake was, at that day, an utter wilderness, without an inhabitant. In fact, none of us knew where Spirit Lake was, except that it lay about due south of the fort at a distance of from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five miles. We procured two guides of experience among our Sioux half-breeds. * * * These men took a pony and a light train to carry the blankets and jDrovisions, put on their snowshoes and were ready to go any- where, while the poor troops, with their leather shoes and their backloads, accompanied by a ponderous army wagon on wheels, drawn by six mules, were about as fit for such a march as an elephant is for a ballroom. But it was the best the government had, and they entered upon the arduous duty bravely and cheerfullv. * * * We started on March nineteenth, at about one o'clock, P. M., at first intending to go straight across the country, but we soon decided that course to be utterly im- possible, as the mules could not draw the wagon through the deep snow. It became apparent that our only hope of reach- ing the lake was to follow the road down by the way of IvTew TJlm to Mankato, and trust to luck for a road up the Waton- wan in the direction of the lake, we having learned that some teams had recently started for that place with some supplies.
PURSUIT BY U. S. TROOPS 123
The first days of the march were appalling. The men were wet nearly up to their waists with the deep and melting snow and utterly weary before they had gone ten miles.
"Neither of the olficers had ever made a snow camp before .and when we had dug out a place for our first camp and were making futile efforts to dry our clothes before turning in for the night, I felt that the trip was hopeless. So much time had elapsed since the murders were committed, and so much more would necessarily be consumed before the troops could possibly reach the lake, that I felt assured that no good could result from going on. I told Captain Bee that if he wanted to return I would furnish him with a written opinion of two of the most experienced voyageurs on the frontier that the march was impossible of accomplishment with the inappropri- ate outfit with which the troops were furnished. * * * The Captain agreed with me that the chances of accomplishing any good by going on were very small, but he read his orders and in .answer to my suggestion, 'My orders are to go to Spirit Lake and do what I can. It is not for me to interpret them but to obey them. I shall go on until it becomes physically impossible to proceed further. Then it will be time to turn back.' And go on he did. ;We followed the trail up the Wa- tonwan until we found the teams that had made it stuck in a snow drift, and for the remaining forty or fifty miles the troops ni'arched .ahead of the mules and broke a road for them, relieving the front rank every fifteen or twenty minutes.
"When the lake was reached the Indians were gone. A care- ful examination was made of their camp and fires by the guides, wlio pronounced them three or four days old. Their trail led to the west. A pursuit was made by a portion of the command, partly mounted on mules land partly on foot, but it was soon abandoned on the declaration of the guides that the Indians were by the signs several days in advance.
* * * I learned afterwards by Mrs. Marble, one of the rescued women, that the troops in pursuit came so near that, the Indians saw them and made an ambush for them, and ha?! they not turned back the prisoners would have all been mur- dered. The guides mav have been mistaken or thev mav have deceived the troops. I knew the young men so well th.at I never have accused them of a betrayal of their trust, but it was probably best as it was in either case, becau.se had the troops
124 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
overtaken the Indians the women would have certainly been butchered and some of the soldiers killed. The satisfaction of having killed some of the Indians would not have compen- sated for this result."
The Indians were absent from thei-r camp at Heron Lake in making their attack on Si^ringfield two days, when they returned laden with plunder. Mrs. Sharp says:
"They had twelve horses heavily laden with dry goods, gro- ceries, powder, lead, bed quilts, Avearing apparel, provisions, etc. Among this plunder were several bolts of calico and red flannel. Of these, especially the flannel, they were exceedingly proud, decorating themselves with it in fantastic fashion. Red leggings, red shirts, red blankets and red in every conceivable way was the style there as long as it lasted."
The next morning after their return from the attack on Springfield, they broke camp at Heron Lake and started west with their prisoners and plunder.
The incidents of this weary march through the melting snows and across swollen streams are vividly portrayed by Mrs. Sharp in her thrilling narrative, but are too lengthy to be given here in detail. A few of the main events will bo briefly noticed. The Indians must have been very^ deliberate in their movements froin place to place after leaving their Heron Lake camp, or rather after the pursuit was .abandoned. According to Mrs. Sharp's account they were six weeks in making the journey from Heron Lake to the place of crossing the Big Sioux, near the present town of Flandrau. l^ow, the distance from Heron Lake to Flandrau is not far from one hundred miles, so their progress could not have .averaged more than twenty miles a week.
It has already been stated that Captain Bee's company of regulars arrived from Fort Ridgley the day before the Indians broke camp at Heron Lake. Their terrible hardships and suf-
PURSUIT ABANDONED 126
ferings on that trip have already been referred to. They were in no condition to pursue the savages, yet it seemed impera- tive they should make the attempt. Accordingly after one day's rest at Springfield they started on the trail. Heron Lake is between fifteen .and twenty miles west of Springfield. By looking up and comparing dates it will be ascertained that the Indians left their camp at Heron Lake on the morning of the twenty-ninth. The soldiers arrived at Springfield on the even- ing of the twenty-eighth, resting over the twenty-ninth, and started west after the Indians the morning of the thirtifeth. Thus it will be seen that the Indians had one day plus the dis- tance between Springfield and Heron Lake the start of the troops.
These regulars were but little better prepared for such a campaign than were Major iWilliams' volunteers and were not nearly as much in earnest .about it. They had two half-breed guides, Joe Gaboo and Joseph La Frombone. Gaboo had a full-blooded Indian wife. It was suspected at the time, and su,bsequent events seen to confirm the suspicion, that these guides were more interested in the escape of the Indians than in their capture or punishment.
The soldiers pressed on .at a rapid rate, and at about three o'clock in the afternoon they reached the grove where the In- dians with their prisoners had camped the preceding night and left that morning. This grove they surrounded, expecting to find the Indians there and intending to close in upon and cap- ture them. In this they were disappointed. The Indians had left about nine hours before. The guides upon examining the campfires and the trails about the camp declared that they were two or three days old, and that the Indians had that much the start. If such was the case, it was evident that fur- ther pursuit would be useless. Accordingly the expedition was abandoned and they turned back to Springfield.
b
126 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
The .actual facts were that the Indians kept scouts in the rear to cover their retreat, and these scouts saw the troops when they iirst made their appearance at their abandoned camp, and kept close watch of all of their movements. The main body of the Indians were hurried forward into .a ravine or creek bottom, where they awaited results.
When the Indians were first aware that they were being pur- sued, the wildest excitement prevailed among them. They had just gone into camp when the troops were first discovered. The tents were immediately taken down, the campfires extin- guished and the whole camp moved further down the ravine. A guard was set over the prisoners with orders to kill them in case of an attack. One Indian had climbed a tree, which stood on some high ground, where he could watch and report the movements of the soldiers. It seems that these events were taking place in the Indian camp just at the time that the sol- diers were counseling whether they would continue the pursuit or turn back. In all probability the prisoners would all have been murdered there and then had the pursuit not been aban- doned just as it was.
The details of this flight and pursuit are given at length by Mrs. Sharp, and form an interesting chapter, at the close of which she says : "Whether the guides were true or false or whether or not the soldiers were justified in turning back it w.as life to us as captives."
After the Indians became satisfied that further pursuit was _ not probable, they moved forward with all the haste possible, encumbered as they were with their prisoners and their plun- der. Mrs. Sharp further says : "No time was given us to rest, much less to prepare any food, till some time next day, and we did not camp for two days and nights. * * * Thus ended our flight from the United States soldiers, and their at; tempt to rescue us only made our situation more terrible."
&
REACH THE BIG SIOUX 127
As before stated, the Indians started westward the next morn- ing after their pursuit was abandoned, going by way of the great Pipestone quarry, which is located in Pipestone County, Minnesota. Here they rested a short time and busied them- selves in gathering pipestone 'and making pipes, after which they resumed their journey, arriving at the Big Sioux about the last of April or the first of May. Of tbis event Mrs. Sharp writes as follows :
"After six weeks of incessant marching over the trackless prairie and through the deep snow, across creeks, sloughs, rivers and lakes, we reached the Big Sioux at or about the point where now stands the town of Flandrau. Most of the journey had been performed in cold and inclement weather, but now spring seemed to have come. The vast amount of snow which covered the ground that memorable winter had nearly gone by reason of the rapid thawing during the last few weeks, causing the river to rise beyond all ordinary bounds and assume majestic proportions."
It was in crossing this strean^ that Mrs. Thatcher was mur- dered. Mrs. Sharp's account is too long to be reproduced in full here, but some extracts will be given. Mrs. Thatcher's health was more delicate and she had suffered more than the other prisoners during their long, tedious march, and during a i>ortion of the time she had not been compelled to cairry a pack as the other prisoners had. During tlic last few days she had partially recovered and was therefore compelled to carry her pack as before. It seems that at the point where the party reached the river a bridge of driftwood had formed across the stream over which ,a person with clear head and steady step could cross with tolerable safety.
"On such a bridge we were to cross the now swollen waters. * * * As we were abouit to follow the Indians across one of these imcertain bridges where a single misstep might plunge us into the deep waters, an Indian, not more than sixteen years old * * * T^yho had .always manifested a great degree of
128 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
hatred and contempt for the whites, approaelied iis and taking the pack from Mrs. Thatcher's shoulders and placing it on his own, ordered us forward. This seeming kindness at once aroused our suspicions. * * * When we reached the cen- ter of the swollen stream, as we anticipated, this insolent young savage pushed Mrs. Thatcher from the bridge into the ice cold water, but by what seemed supernatural Strength, she breasted the dreadful torrent, and making a last struggle for life, reached the shore which had just been left, .and was clinging to the root of a tree at the bank. She was here met by some of the other Indians who were just coming upon the scene. They com- menced throw^ing clubs at her and with long poles shoved her back into the angry stream. As if nerved by dread of such a death she made another desperate effort for life, and doubt- less would have gained the shore, but here again she was met by her meciless tormentors and was beaten off as before. She was then carried down by the furious, boiling current of the Sioux, while the Indians on either side of the stream were running along the banks, whooping and yelling, and throwing sticks and stones at her until she reached another bridge. Here she was finally shot by one of the Indians in another division of the band, who was crossing with another division of the cap- tives some distance below."
Eleviewing these events in the light of present conditions and surroundings, the strange thing about the wdiole matter is that any one of those four captives bore up for a single week under the extreme suffering and hardships to which they were ex- posed. Just think of it! Wet to the waist every day from walking through the snow and slush, indifferently clothed, nearly starved, often going two days without anything to eat, compelled to carry a pack, which would test the endurance of a strong man. All this they had now endured for over six weeks.
American history furnishes no parallel to their suffering and endurance; language fails to describe them; the intellect fails to grasp them, — ^and the end is not yet. True, spring had come, and the condition of the unfortunate captives was somewhat alleviated. But they still had a long, tedious road to
DEATH OF MRS. THATCHER 129
travel, and many dangers and vicissitudes through which to pass.
After crossing the Big Sioux thej continued their march westward into Dakota. In their wanderings they frequently met roving bauds of Sioux with whom they always seemed to be on good terms. It has been claimed by the Indians and their apologists that Inkpadutah's band were not annuity In- dians, but that they were regarded as outlaws, and were not fellowshipped by the agency Indians. This certainly could ^not have been true to any great extent. Mrs. Sharp saw noth- ing of the kind while she was with them. On the contrary, she says, "Whenever we met any of the other oands our cap- tors would go over the story of their achievements by word and gesture and the display of booty, giving a vivid description of the affair, reproducing in fullest detail even the groans .and sighs of the victims. To all this the other Sioux listened not only without any signs of disapprobation, but with every indi- cation of enjoyment and high appreciation."
On the sixth of May, when the Indians were camped at a s5m.all lake some thirty miles west of the Big Sioux, their camp was .visited by two young Indians from the Yellow Medicine Agency, who, upon seeing the prisoners, took a fancy to them, and after a considerable bantering bought Mrs. Marble, trad- ing guns, blankets, ammunition and such things as they had with them. After completing the trade they started imme- diately on their return, and after several days weary journey- ing arrived at the Yellow Medicine Agency. Through the in- strumentality of missionaries, Messrs. Riggs and Williamson and Major Flandrau, the Indian Agent, a sum of money amounting to $1,000 was raised and paid to the Indians for her r.ansom.
It is the generally accepted belief that both of the prisoners, Mrs. Marble and Miss Gardner, were rescued by friendly In-
130 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
dians sent out from the agency for that purpose. But such, it seems, was not the case so far ,as Mrs. Marble was concerned. The facts connected with ,her release will be better understood from the following extract from Major Flandrau's report, ac- companied by a statement written ouf fpr the two Indians by Mr. Riggs. Judge Flandrau says :
^'I was engaged in devising plans for the rescue of the captives and the punishment of the Indians in connection with Colonel Alexander of the Tenth Infantry, but had found it very difficult to settle upon any course which would not endanger the safety of the prisoners. We knew that any hostile demonstration would be sure to result in the destruction of the women, and were without means to fit out an exj)edition for their ransom. While we were deliberating on the best course to pursue, mi accident opened the way 'to success. A party of my Indians were hunting on the Big Sioux River, and having learned that Inkpadutah's band was at Lake Chauptayatonka, about thirty miles west of the river, and also knowing of the fact that they held some white women j)risoners, two young men (brothers) visited the camp and after much talk they succeeded in purchasing Mrs. Marble. They paid for her all they possessed and brought her into the agency and delivered her into the hands of the mis- sionaries stationed at that point. She was at once turned over to me wi,th a written statement from the two Indians who had brought her, which was prepared for them at their request by Mr. Riggs, who spoke their language fluently. I will allow them to tell their own story. It was as follows : 'Hon. C. E. Flandrau: Father. In our spring hunt, when encamped at the north end of Big Wood on the Sioux River, Ave learned from some Indians who came to us, that we were not far from Red End's camp. Of our own accord^ and con- trary to the advice of all about us, we concluded to visit them, thinking that possibly we might be able to obtain one or more of the white women held by them as prisoners. We found them encamped at Chauptayatonka Lake, about thirty miles west of our own camp. We were met at some distance from their lodges by four men armed with revolvers, who demanded of us our business. After satisfying them that we were not spies and had no evil intentions in regard to them we were
MRS. MARBLE PURCHASED 131
taken into Inkpadutah's Lodge. TJie night was spent in re- citing their massacre, etc. It was not until the next morning that we ventured to ask for one of the women. Much time w.as spent in talking and it was not until the middle of the afternoon did we obtain their consent to our proposition. We paid for her all we had. We brought her to our mother's tent, clothed her as we were able, and fed her bountifully on the best we had — duck and corn. iWe brought her to Lac qui Parle, and now, father, after having her with us fifteen days, we place her in your hands. It was perilous business, for which we think we should be liberally rewarded. We claim for our services $500 each.' * * * This communication was signed by the Indians and witnessed by the missionary, Mr. Riggs."
Judge Flandrau adds : "By the action of these Indians we not only got one of the captives but we learned for the first time definitely the whereabouts of the marauders and the as- surance that the other women were still alive as these Indians had seen them in Red End's camp."
It will be seen from the foregoing extracts that the release of Mrs. Marble was not the result of any preconcerted plan worked out by the government ofiicers, but was styled by Judge Flandrau himself a "lucky accident."
About four weeks after the release of Mrs. Marble, while Inkpadutah's band were roaming over the prairies, they fell in with a small party of Yanktons. Their leader, after some bantering, purchased both of the prisoners from Inkpadutah. His object was simply to make money by selling them to the whites, but he didn't seem to be in any particular hurry to realize on his investment. Instead of starting at once for the settlements, as the purchasers of Mrs. Marble had done, he continued to journey with Inkpadutah's party in their aimless wanderings. One evening, a few days after the purchase. Roar- ing Cloud, a son of Inkpadutah, came to the tent of the Yank- ton and in a fit of rage dragged Mrs. l^oble from the tent and regardless of the protests of her Yankton owner, seized a club
132 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
and murdered her on the spot. Of this event Mrs. Sharp writes as follows:
"The next morning the warriors gathered around the already mangled corpse .and amused themselves by making it a target to shoot at. To this show of barbarism I -was brought out and com- pelled to stand a silent witness. Faint 'and sick at heart, I at length turned away from the dreadful sight without their orders to do so, and started off on the day's march expecting they would riddle me with their bullets, but why should I escape more than others ? But for some unaccountable reason I was spared. After going a short distance I looked back and they were still around her, using their knives cutting off her hair and muti- lating her body. * * * Xt last the l:)loody camp was de- serted and the mangled body left lying on the ground un- buried. Her hair, in two heavy braids, just as she had ar- ranged it, was tied to the end of a stick, perhaps three feet long, and during the day as I wearily and sadly toiled on, one of the young Indians walked by my side and repeatedly slashed me in the face with it, thus .adding insult to injury. * * *
"If Mrs. Noble could only have escaped the vengeance of Roaring Cloud a few days longer she doubtless would have been set at liberty and restored to civilized society and the companionship of her sister and brothers. * * * Could she only have known the efforts being made for her rescue and how near thev .alreadv were to success, she would have had courage to endure insults a little longer and hope to bid her look forward. At the very moment when she was dragged from her tent and brutally murdered, rescuers under the di- rection of the United States Commissioner fully prepared for her ransom were pressing forward with all the dispatch pos- sible."
Mrs. Marble's .arrival at the settlement was the first intima- tion that had been received of the fate of any of the captives and created great excitement. A deep interest had been man- ifested in the fate of the prisoners from the first and now that it was definitely known that two of them were still living and in captivity there was a general demand that ample meas- ures be immediately taken for their rescue. Major Flandrau immediately set to work to fit out an expedition for that pur-
EXPEDITION SENT FOR MISS GARDNER 133
pose. He had no government funds at his command, but he and his friends used their own private credit in securing .an outfit. Volunteers were not wanting and three trusty scouts were soon selected. In regard to further operations, he says :
"The question of outfit then presented itself and I ran my credit with the traders for the following articles at the prices stated:
Wagon $110.00
4 Horses 600.00
12 3 Point Blankets (4 blue, 8 white) . . 56.00
32 Yards of Squaw Cloth 44.00
37i Yards Calico 5.37 '
20" Lbs. Tobacco 10 00
1 Sack of Shot 4.00
15 Lbs. Powder 25.00
Corn 4.00
Flour 10.00
Coffee 1.50
Sugar 1.50
"With this outfit, and instructions to give as much of it as was necessary for the women, my expedition started on the twenty-third day of May from Yellow Medicine. I at once left for Fort Rlidgley to consult Colonel Alexander as to the plan of operation for an attack upon the camp of Inkpadutah the instant we could get word as to the safety of the white wo- men. The Colonel entered into the spirit of the matter with zeal. He had four or five companies at the fort and proposed to put them into the field, so as to approach Skunk Lake, where Inkpadutah had his camp, from several different directions and insure his destruction. If an event which was wholly unforeseen had not occurred, the well laid plan of Colonel Alexander would undoubtedly have succeeded. But unfortunately for the cause of justice, about the time we began to expect information from my expedition, which was to be the signal for moving on the enemy, an order arrived at the fort commanding the Colonel with all his .available force to start immediately and join the expedition against the Mormons, which was then moving to Utah, under the command of Grfeneral Sidney Johnston. So peremptory was the command that the steamboat that brought the order carried off the entire garrison of the fort and put an end to all hopes of our being able to punish the enemy."
134 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
So it will be seen that the blame for not adopting more en- ergetic measures to secure, capture and punish the Indians cannot be laid upon the commandant at Fort Ridgley, nor the agent at Yellow Medicine. 'Whatever induced the War De- partment to leave the northwestern Irpntier in this defenseless condition at a time of such imminent danger by withdrawing ,all the troops for a wild goose chase through U'tah after the Mormons is something that cannot be satisfactorily explained. The fort was regarrisoned the latter part of July.
A few days after the murder of Mrs. I^oble the Indians with their remaining captive reacbed the James River, where now is situated the town of Old Ashton in Spink County, South Dakota. Here, on the opposite side of the river, was a power- ful Yankton camp of nearly two hundred lodges. These Yank- tons had evidently never been in contact with civilization. They were .armed with bows and arrows and clubs. Their tents and clothing were manufactured entirely from buffalo hides, and there was absolutely nothing in their appearance to indicate that they had ever had any intercourse with the whites. To them the "white squaw" was a source of much wonderment and they never tired of commenting on and ex- amining her "flaxen hair, blue eyes and light complexion."
They had been in this camp but .a few days, and the novelty and excitement of Inkpadutah's coming with a white captive had not vet subsided, when on the thirtieth of Mav three In- dians dressed in white men's clothes came into camp. These Indians were the ones that had been sent out from the agency for the express purpose of securing the release of the remain- ing prisoners. The death of Mrs. ISToble having occurred in the meantime. Miss Gardner was the only one left. Some three or four days were spent in parleying and bantering, when an arrangement was finally reached and the captive was turned over to her new purchasers.
MISS GARDNER RANSOMED
135
INDIAN COUNCIL NEGOTIATING FOR THE SURRENDER OF MISS GARDNER.
Mrs. SharjD says the price paid for licr ransom was two horses, twelve blankets, two kegs of powder, twenty pounds of tobacco, thirty-two yards of squaw cloth, thirty-seven and a half yards of calico, and ribbon and other small articles with which these Indians Jiad been provided by Major Flandrau. As soon as possible after the completion of the transfer the res- cuing party crossed the James River and prepared to start at once on their return trip east. They had brought a team of horses .and a wagon with them, which they had concealed among the brush and willows on the east side of the river, pending negotiations. In all probability had the Yanktons known they were there they would have insisted on their being added to the purchase price. The party consisted of the three agency Indians sent out by M,ajor Flandrau and two Yanktons from the James River.
Mrs. Sharp's description of her rescue and the return trip are intensely interesting and at times highly dramatic. A few extracts are all that can be given. She says :
136 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
"Almost the first move was to cross the James River. I was put into a frail little boat made of buffalo skin stripped of hair and dressed so as to be impervious to water. The boat w.as not more than five feet long by four wide and incapable of carrying more than one person. When I found I was the only occupant I concluded that the story of the Indian Ayho told me I was to be drowned was after all a true one. * * * j ^^,2^s, however, happily disappointed to see my new purchasers divest them- selves of their fine clothes and swim across, holding the end of a cable made of bufi^alo hide which had previously been fas- tened to the boat. (With this they drew the boat with me in it to the eastern shore. Thus, though I knew it not, I was being drawn towards- home and friends, and the river was put be- tween me .and my cruel foes. * * * Hiding the team and wagon was not only a piece of sharp practice but a wise stroke of policy, and showed diplomacy. * * *
"The names of the persons composing this rescue party should l)e put on record and held in remembrance not alone for this mission but for other humane deeds done by them. They were Mazaintemani * * * j^qw familiarly known among the whites as John Other Day, Hotonhowashta or Beautiful Voice, and Chetanmaza or Iron Hawk."
These three Indians were prominent members of the church at the mission station at Yellow Medicine. Other D.ay was a prominent figure during the Sioux War five years later. IMany were the times that he risked his own life in Avarning the settlers of impending trouble. His services will be referred to again. Chetanmaza or Iron Hawk visited Mrs. Sharp at her home during the summer of 1895 and was present at the dedication of the monument. Of the return trip Mrs. Sharp says : , .
"The Yankton chief having been placated and I safely towed across the river the team was brought out. The Yanktons filled the wagon with dried buffalo meat and buffalo robes. I w.as in- stalled driver and the five Indians (three Yellow Medicine and two Yanktons) leading the way in single file we took up our march. * * * After seven days of incessant traveling we came into a region thickly peopled with Indians."
^^
Prom a; Photograph.
CHETANMAZA AND HIS FRIEND
138 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Two days later tliey arrived at the home of a half-breed who could speak English. ' This was the first she knew of her where- abonts or what was to become of her. She here learned that these Indians had been sent out from the agency on purpose to secure her release "and that the long journey with its perils and sacrifices had been made for me." She further says :
"I also learned from this h.alf-l)reed that Mrs. Marble had been there about a month before and had gone on to St. Paul
* -:v * After a day and a half spent at the half-breed's trading j^ost in which time I had tried to make myself as presentable as possible, we proceeded to the Yellow Medicine Agency and then to the mission station of Dr. Thomas Wil- liamson." * * *
A scare almost amounting to a panic occurred at the agency about the time of the arrival of Miss Gardner, but in no way connected with her. The trouble was over the delay in j^aying the Indians their annuities and came near being serious, but the money for the annuities came just in time to save further trouble. Further on Mrs. Sharp says:
"While this dun cloud of w.ar hung over our heads, one of the Yanktons who had accompanied us as an escort from the James River brought out a beautiful Indian war cap that had been carefully packed away in the wagon without my knowledge. I was seated on a stool in the center of the room and with great display of Indian eloquence it was presented to me and placed upon my liead in the name of the great chief Matowaken. The instruc- tions of the chief were that I should be crowned with it on our first arrival at the abode of the whites and that it should be exhibited when we came into the presence of the Great Father, meaning the Governor of Minnesota. * * * In the pre- sentation speech it was stated that it was given as a token of respect for the fortitude and bravery I had manifested and it was because of this that Inkpadutah's Indians did not kill me. It was also stated that as long ,as I retained t,he cap I would be under the j^rotection of all of the Dacotahs."
TRIP TO ST. PAUL 139
From the agency the party passed down the river to, Fort Kidgley and thence across the conntry to Traverse, which was at the time the head of navigation on the Minnesota River, where they emharked on a steamer to St. Paid.
Several pages of Mrs. Sharp's hook are devoted to an acconnt of the journey to St. Paul, the audience with the governor, the address to Maz.aintemani upon surrendering the captive, the Governor's reply, and the address of Major Flandrau, making it one of the most interesting and attractive chapters in the whole volume. The amount paid the Indians was $1,200 or $400 each in addition to the .amount ]iaid the Yanktons at the time of her purchase. The leader of the rescuing party always remained the firm friend of the whites and during the terrible days following the massacre of 1862 exerted himself in every possible way to prevent the outrages and protect the settlers.
CHAPTER XI.
GOVERNMENT APATHY NO ATXEMPT TO PUNISH
THE OUTLAWS EOARING CLOUD VENTURES NEAR
THE AGENCY IS KILLED BY A PARTY OF SOLDIERS
AND VOLUNTEERS LITTLE CROW SENT IN SEARCH
OF THE OUTLAWS CLAIMED TO HAVE KILLED
THREE AND DEMANDS THEIR ANNUITIES WHICH xYRE FINALLY' PAID THEM.
HE APATHY of the government in not .attempting to devise some more effectual means for the detection and punishment of this marauding band of savages was mncli criticizeiL It was known all summi-r that the headquarters of the band were at Skunk Lake^ in Dakota. What was asked was that another fort be established at some place, say Sioux Falls, and then tli.at troops enough be sent to the frontier to not only secure protection, but to make an aggressive movement practicable. It will be seen that the moves made against these Indians were made by wholly inadequate forces. Could a strong column have been sent out simultan- eously from Fort Pidgley, Fort Plandall and Sioux Falls, the band could have been captured or destroyed. The feeble at- tempts that were m.ade by the Indian agent and the commander of the fort were not sanctioned by the Federal .authority.
Judge Flandrau and the commandant at the fort did every- thing they could do with the means at their command, but the iWar Department seemed to be perfectly indifferent and the only measure proposed by them to accomplish the object was to withhold the annuities from the agency Indians until the out- laws were surrendered. Of course, the agency Indians regarded this as a great wa'ong. How much it may have had to do with
DEATH OF ROARING CLOUD 141
intensifying the hostile feeling exis,ting at the time we don't know ; also whether it may be reckoned as one of the factors in precipitating the Minnesota outbreak in 1862, we don't know, but, view it as we may, the stubbornness and stupidity of the War Department .at this time are wholly incomprehensi- ble.
Some time in July word was received by Major Flandrau that a portion of Inkpadutah's band were in camp on the Yel- low Medicine not far from the agency. Upon holding a con- sultation with the commandant of the fort it w,as decided that an effort must be made to capture or destroy them if possible. Accordingly Lieutenant Murray, with a small force of about twenty regulars and as many or more volunteers, was detailed for that service. John Other Day, the same Indian who led the rescuing party that rescued Mrs. Sharp from the Indians, was sent forward as .a scout to reconnoiter and ascertain the facts. This force left Fort Ridgley about dark. They moved forward as fast as possible, and when a few miles from the Upper Agency were met by their guide, and were informed by him that the report was true that a part of Inkpadutah's band were in camp not a great distance from the agency. II]ow many, he did not know. They con- sisted of six tepees and were out at one side by themselves about five miles up the river. The party again moved forward, pi- loted by their Indian guide, and reached the river where they intended to cross just after daylight. The hostile camp was in full view on the high ground on the opposite side of the river. As the soldiers w^ere nearing the spot ,an Indian holding a squaw by the hand sprang from one of the tepees and started rapidly for the river. Other Day, the guide, recognized him as Eoaring Cloud, the son of Inkpadutah. The soldiers opened fire on him at long range with their rifles, but with what effect they did not know, .as the Indian did not halt until he reached cover. From there he returned the fire of the soldiers three or
142 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
four times. Every time lie skat the soldiers would fire a return volley at the spot from which the smoke arose and he was soon riddled with bullets, and as the firing ceased a soldier rushed forward and finished the work with a thrust of his bayonet. It will 1)6 remembered that this w^as the same Indian that murdered Mrs. ISToble after she had been purchased by the Yankton. The squaw was taken prisoner. The other Indians escaped.
It seems that the wife of Roaring Cloud was one of the agency Iiidians, and this .accounts for the risks he ran in com- ing so near to the agenc}^ at a time when he was sure to be killed if recognized. The taking this squaw prisoner came very near causing serious trouble with the agency Indians. In going down to the agency, the expedition passed through a camp of several thousand Indians. -These Indians were nom- inallv friendlv to the whites but the sight of one of their tribe being held .a prisoner aroused their indignation to an alarm- ing degree. The ])nrp(ise of the troops in making this squaw a prisoner was to get such infonnation as they could regarding the Indian that was killed, also the balance of the party. The troops realized that they had got themselves into trouble. The excitement Avas intense. The angry warriors crowded around them on every side, making all kinds of hostile demonstra- tions. A shot from either side would have doubtless precipi- tated a collision, and in all probability, the force would have been annihilated on the spot. Fortunately no collision occur- red and they reached the agency in s.afety. Here they took possession of a log house and awaited results, determined in case of an attack to defend themselves the best they were able. After a few days anxious suspense and sleepless anxiety they were relieved from their perilous situation by the arrival of Major Sherman with a force of regulars and a battery of ar- tillery, having been ordered there from Fort Snelling to attend
APATHY ON THE PART OF THE GOVERNMENT 143
the payment of the annuities. Thus strengthened the troops were powerful enough to defend themselves in case of an attack. But with the release of the prisoner the affair blew over and matters quieted down to their normal condition.
The only other .attempt made by the government to capture the renegade chief was later in the season. The garrison at Fort Ridgley had been materially strengthened and as the time approached when the annuities were to be paid the Indians were informed that they would be required by the government to deliver Inkpadutah and his band to the authorities as a condition on which they would receive their annuities. To this the Indians strenuously objected. They regarded it as a great Avrong, punishing the innocent for the crimes of the guilty. However, they succeeded in organizing ,a force made up of squads from the different bands, numbering in the neigh- borhood of a hundred warriors. This force, under the leader- ship of Little Qrow, made a campaign into the Indian country and were gone about two weeks. Upon their return they claimed that they had killed three of his band, wounded one and taken one squaAV and one papoose prisoner. The Indians now claimed that they had done all that they could do and all that they ought to be required to do to entitle them to their annuities.
The agents of the government on the other hand insisted that it was the duty of annuity Indians to pursue and either capture or exterminate the outlaws. The time for paying the annuities had now arrived and matters began to look serious. After discussing the question in all its bearings the government authorities decided that it would be better to yield the point .and pay the annuities than to run the risk of precipitating hos- tilities As'ith the entire Sioux nation by withholding them longer. This opinion was largely held by the settlers along the border and by the population of Minnesota generally. Ac-
144 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
cordiiigly, on the eighteenth of August, Major Cullen sent the following dispatch to the Department :
"If the Departanent concur, I am of the opinion that the Sioux of the Mississippi have done all in their power to punish or surrender Inkpadutah's band, and tlieir annuities may with proi^rietj be paid them. * * ^^ The special agent awaits answer to this dispatch at Dunleith and for instructions in the premises."
The annuities were accordingly paid and the government made no further eifort to capture or punish this little band of marauders, who had wrought such destruction and spread such consternation along the entire northwestern frontier. ^Nothing definite is known of the remainder of Inkpadutah's band sul)- sequent to this time, but it is supposed that they scattered, the different members uniting with other bands, thus destroying their identity and making their pursuit or capture as a dis- tinct band impossible.
So far as can be ascertained there is absolutely no tradition claiming to give the final fate of Inkpadutah. Several times during the summer of 1857 rumors were circulated rtelling of liis death, and these were as often denied. Had he remained among the Indians along the frontier, he must at some time have been seen and recognized by some of the traders, trappers, half-breeds or friendly Indians of that region, but so far as known, nothing of the kind ever occurred. He dropped out of
«
sight completely, and there is no authentic account of his ever having been seen or heard of since.
Mrs. Sharp, in speaking of his family, says : ''His family consisted of himself .and squaw, four sons and one daughter."
■As has been related, the eldest son, Roaring Cloud, the mur- derer of Mrs. Koble, was killed some time in -Inly by a party of soldiers and volunteers near the Yellow Medicine Agency. There is a theory, and it is a plausible one, entertained by
WHAT BECAME OF INKPADUTAH's BAND 145
many that the three sous hovered around the frontier for some years ; that they were leaders in many of the petty difficulties along the border, and that they were active in inciting i^he annuity Indians to deeds of violence and insubordination. When the outbreak at the agency came, in August, 1862, they were among the foremost in their deeds of violence and blood- shed, and later that they participated in the many sanguinary conflicts on the upper Missouri, and ^he great western plains, and that they were known to have been present at and partici- pators in the Custer Massacre on the Little Big Hbrn in 1876. A little book, entitled ''Twenty Years on the Trap Line," by Joseph Henry Taylor, insists there is abundant proof of this fact. The author claims to have been a member of Captain White's company of the ITorthern Border Brigade, stationed at Correctionville, and other points along the frontier, and that after receiving his discharge he spent the next twenty years trapping on the Missouri River and' its tributaries. In his reminiscences he mentions several instances of coming into close proximity with these Indians and had several narrow escapes from them. ''Mill Creek," in Cherokee County, seems to have been one of his favorite trapping grounds. In writ- ing of his experiences there, he says :
"As the rapidly changing season commenced to spot the furs, I made ready to pull up traps and move down to the settle- ments. On the morning of my final departure I noticed a man passing along the edge of the bluffs without seeming to see the camp. With gun in hand, and with a brace of pistols in my 'war' belt, I intercepted him with a 'Hello!' On approach- ing, I discovered him to be a half-breed, and seemed to be trailing something. 'Did you see anybody pass here V he said in good English. 'jSTo,' I answered. 'You were in luck they didn't see you.' 'Why so V 'Because Inkpadutah's boys don't often let a chance slip.' 'Inkpadutah's boys,' I repeated mechanically. 'Yes, Inkpadutah's sons. Inkpadutah's sons — I well re- member the cold chill that crept over my nerves at
146 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the half-breed's mention of the dreaded name. As soon as he had disappeared down the winding valley I crit- ically examined the trail he was following and found the moccasin tracks of six different Indians all pointing down the valley. After having taken np the traps, I moved up on the high divide and took a bee line? f (5r ^Correctionville. * * * Striking the valley of the Little Sioux at leasti once a year on a hostile raid seemed to be a fanatical observance of Ink- padutalr s band that they could not .abandon. Whether fishing for pickerel around the shores of Lake Winnipeg, or hunt- ing antelope on the plains of the upper James River, or buf- falo in the Judith Basin or along the Muscleshell River, time and opportunity were found to start out hundreds of miles on a dreary foot journey to count a 'coup'' on their aggressive con- querors. The battle on the Little Big Horn is still rated the most important engagement between the whites and Indians since that day on the banks of the turgid Tippecanoe, when the sycamore forests hid the broken columns of ' Tecumseh and the prophet from Hiarrison's victorious army. Var- ious writers have ascribed Custer's death as the cul- minating episode in this latter day fight and to heighten the color of the picture have laid his death to the per- sonal prowess of Rain in the Face or on the field altar of Chief Priest Sitting Bull. It has long since been proven that Rain in the Face Avas not on the field of battle that day, hut was miles .away in charge of the pony herd. About Sit- ting Bull's hand in the affair, he has expressed himself again and again by saying in about these words to the charge, 'They tell you I murdered Custer. It is a lie. I am not a w.ar chief. I was not in the battle tliat day. His eyes were blinded that he could not see. He was a fool and rode to his death. He made the fight, not I. Whoever tells you I killed Custer is a liar.' * * * Any intelligent Yankton, Santee, Uncpapa Blackfoot or other Sioux, who participated in the fight against Custer's battalions on that twenty-fifth day of June, 1876, will tell you it was difficult to tell just who killed Custer. They believed he was the last to fall in the group where hie was found. That the last leaden messengers of swift death hurled amongst this same group of falling and dying soldiers were belched forth from Winchesters held in the hands of Inkpadutah's sons."
CHAPTER XII.
EFFECT OF THE MASSACRE ELSEWHERE ATTRAC- TION OF EMIGRANTS THE HOWE AND WHEELOCE^
PARTY J. S. PRESCOTT AND HIS PARTY GEO.
E. SPENCER AND THE NEWTON PARTY.
I jIIE MASSACRE at Spirit Lake created great excitement a'j(l consternation along the entire frontier. N^early the whole line of frontier settlements were abandoned and in some instances the excitement and alarm ex- tended far into the interior. Indeed, in many cases where there was no possibility of danger the alarm was wildest. Mili- tary companies were formed, home guards were organized and other measures taken for defense hundreds of miles from where any Indians had been seen for years. The alarm spread to adjoining states. The wildest accounts of the number .and force of the savages was given currency and credence. Had all of the Indians of the l^orthwest been united in one band they would not have formed a force so formidable as was sup- posed to exist at that time along the western border of Iowa and Minnesota. Doubtless there are at this time many who were then residing in the central portion of this state, and some even in some parts of Wisconsin, who remember the wild excitement and the needless and unreasonable alarm following these events as above related.
One of the results of the Spirit Lake Massacre and the ex- citement following it was to attract the attention of settlers, emigrants and adventurers in that direction. The party from Jasper County, to which allusion has formerly been m.ade, consisting of O. C. Howe, R. IJ. Wheelock and B. F. Parmen-
148 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
ter still persisted in tlieir determination of making a perma- nent settlement at the lakes. It will be remembered that this was the party that explored the lake region the fall before and passed Inkpadntah's camp near Loon Lake. They were also the first to discover and give an intelligent account of the mas- sacre and it was on the strength of their re})resentations tliat the relief force nnder Major Williams was raised. They re- turned to Fort Dodge with Major Williams' command, after which ]Mr. Howe went on to Xewton, while Parmenter and Wheelock remained in Fort I)odg(^ to ])rocnre a new lot of sup- plies and await his return.
Just previous to this time a ])arty, consisting yf J. S. Pres- cott, W. B. Brown and a man whom they employed as guide by the name of Overacker, started on an exploring trip to the lakes, passing up the Des ^loines on the west side, while ^I.ajor Williams' command on their return trip were coming down on the east side and thus avoiding them. Prescott and Browm reached the lakes about the fifteentli of April, and after spend- ing a few days in exploring the country they returned again to Fort Dodge, where they purchased supplies .and made other necessary preparations for their return to the lakes for perma- nent settlement.
Mr. Howe upon his arrival at I^ewton succeeded in raising a party to accompany him on his return trip to the lakes. This party consisted of Hon. George E. Spencer, since United States Senator from Alabama; his brother, Gustave Spencer, M. A. Blanchard, S. ^V. Foreman, Thomas Arthur, Doctor LIunter and Samuel Thornton, all of Kewton, elasper County. Mr. Howe was detained at home by sickness in his family and could not accompany the balance of the party at the time. They came on to Fort Dodge, where they fonnd Wlu'clock and Parmenter, who were waiting for them. There were some others who had decided upon
SCHEMES OF THE FIRST SETTLERS 149
making a trip to the lakes, some from a desire for adventure and others for the purpose of settlement.
Perhaps a short notice of some of the more prominent char- acters that took part in making the first settlement of thie county, subsequent to the massacre, would not be wholly devoid of interest. J. S. Prescott, one of the most active of the early settlers here, was one of the original projectors and founders of the colleg-e at Appleton, Wisconsin. He had also been par- tially successful in starting an institution at Point Bluff, Wis- consin. He, having heard of the romantic beauty of the lake region, made his first trip to this locality with the idea of es- tablishing here some time in the future an institution of learning similar in its provisions to that at Appleton. Visionary, as such a scheme must seem at this time in the light of subse- quent events, it was not at that time regarded as an impossi- ble undertaking.
For this project he h.ad associated with him several gentle- men in Ohio and Wisconsin who had advanced him consider- able sums of money for that purpose. Prescott was a man of great energy and ability, a college graduate and a fine scholar, but he was .a poor judge of human nature. He lacked discre- tion, was impatient, impetuous and excitable, and while he was very enthusiastic in everything he undertook, he was, at the same time, visionary and often unpractical and impracti- cable.
He was educated by his parents for a physician, but dislik- ing the profession went into the practice of law in Ohio, in which he was very successful. After following that for a while he joined the Methodist Church and commenced preaching. As a speaker he possessed extraordinary ability and power. It is no disparagement to the ministers who have represented the different denominations here since that time to say that his pulpit oratory has seldom if ever been equaled by any
150 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
other man in northwestern Iowa. His sermons were of that rare character which church members and men of the workl alike regard as moral and intellectual treats. At the same time, his visionary and impractical ideas rendered his seledtion for the position, to which he Avas assignetl and for the work laid out for him to do, a most unfortunate one. As might be ex,- pected his scheme was a failure.
Prominent among the others who assisted in making the first settlement subsequent to the massacre were O. C. Hbwe, B. F. Parmenter, K. U. Wheelock, W. B. Brown, C. F. Hill, R. A. Smith and Henry Backman. Messrs. Howe and Par- menter M^ere attorneys, formerly from Erie County, ]^ew York, but had been stopping for a short time at I^Tewton, in this state. Their object in coming here at that time was to select a location for a town site, secure the location of the county seat, and secure claims on the adjoining land for themselves. Their scheme was a feasible one, and had times remained as they had been for a few years previous, would doubtless have been successful. They succeeded in securing the county seat all right but after the financial crash of 1857 values became so unsettled that the whole scheme w.as worthless. Mr. Howe was chosen district attorney at the general election in the fall of 1858 for the Fourth Judicial District, which then com- prised nearly one-fourth of the state. This office he held four years after which he enlisted in the ISTinth Iowa Cavalry and was promoted to the rank of captain, which position he held at the close of the war; , '
One of the most unique and remarkable characters that came into prominence in the settlement of northwestern lowia was George E. Spencer, for whom the toAvn of Spencer, Clay County, was nained. It was a part of the original arrangement that he should be associated with Messrs. Howe, Wheelock and Parmenter in the town of Spirit Lake, while in his oper-
PROMINENT CHARACTERS 151
ations in Clay County he w.as associated with other parties. For two or three years he divided his time between the two counties. In one of his trips to Sioux City he succeeded in trading for a tract of hind some four or tivo miles southeast of the present town of Spencer. This he had surveyed and had an elaborate plat made, naming the town after himself.
He succeeded in getting commissioners a])pniiitod and hav- ing the county seat located there, while the county records were kept at Peterson. He had a postoffice established there which Avas also kept at Peterson. Indeed, the two postoffices, Peterson and Spencer, were for a time kept in the same house. All of this when there was not a house within fifteen miles of Spencer, Then he issued circulars and commenced selling lots, representing that they had an eighty thousand dollar courthouse, a fine public schoolhouse, stores, hotels, mills and all of the material advantages of a prosperous western town. This was probably the most conspiciious instance of working a paper town that ever occurred in northwestern Iowa.
Spencer was chosen Chief Clerk of the Senate for the Eighth General Assembly, which position he filled with ability. But inasmuch as his operations were carried on far more extensively in Clay County than in Dickinson it is hardly profitable to fol- low his career farther. After two or three years he abandoned his. schemes in Dickinson County and his interests fell into other hands.
The balance of the party whose names have been given were younger men, most of them well educated and just starting out in the world, and were ready to engage in anything that might afford a chance for speculation or a spice of adventure or ex- citement.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE THREE PARTIES THE TRIP TO THE LAKES
TAKING CLAIMS THE CLAIMS OF TH:^ VICTIMS
OF THE MASSACRE A WRONG IMPRESSION COR- RECTED GRANGER AND THE RED WING PARTY
PRESCOTt's visionary scheme THE SPIRIT
LAKE TOWN SITE LOCATED THE OLD FORT THE
FIRST RELIGIOUS MEETING MODE OF LIVING.
T MAY BE WELL to remember at this time that during the winter of 1856 and 1857 Congress passed the Minn- esota Railroad Bill or an act granting subsidies of land to all of the then projected railroads in Minnesota. Prominent among these was the St. Paul and Sioux City, or, as it was then called, the Minnesota Valley Rjailroad, which provided for the building of a railroad up the Minnesota V.alley to the south line of the state in the direction of the mouth of the Big Sioux River. A direct line from the south bend of the Minnesota River to the mouth of the Big Sioux would run a little to the east and south of the center of our lakes. The idea that that road would be located and built as it was, over thirty miles west of here, was not thought of at that time.
It will be well to remember here also that this was during the fast times preceding the crash of 1857. During the preced- ing five years railroads had been built throughout the West at a rate and upon a scale unprecedented in the history of the world. The states of Illinois and (Wisconsin were virtually co"^ered with a net-work of railroads, all of them constructed within the brief period of six years. If Illinois could be covered with a net-work of railroads in six years, why not
START FOR THE LAKES 163
Iowa? As yet tbe onlv road built in Iowa was from Daven- port to Iowa Citv, with a branch to Muscatine.
Innumerable towns had sprung up in every locality on these new roads and many men had made resj^ectable fortunes in selling town lots, some of them in towns where improve- ments were actually being made, and many in towns that had no existence except on paper. Iowa lands were held at figures that would have delighted the real estate owners of twenty years later.
Taking the past as a criterion, however, men were not at tKat time to be considered as extravagant or uni-easonable, who expected that the system of railroads for Iowa and Minnesota would have been completed in the next five years as those of Illinois and Wisconsin had been within the preceding five years.
Taking into consideration the natural advantages ,and the unequaled beauty of the lake region, and, as was then supposed, the almost positive certainty that they would soon have railroad communication with the rest of the world, it is not strange that a different class of men were attracted here than the representative pioneers who had sub- dued the older portions of the country. People who leave the older states with the last magazine in their pockets and the last daily paper in their hands are very much the same peo- ple after landing in low.a or Minnesota that they were before leaving iN'ew York or I^ew England. The term "The Wild and Wooly West," with its peculiar significance, never was applicable to the pioneers of northwestern Iowa and more particularly to the first settlers of Dickinson County.
The several parties of which mention has heretofore been made, completed their .arrangements at Fort Dodge and started for the lakes again on Wednesday, the 30tli day of April, 1857. The different parties were made up as follows: First, Doctor J. S. Prescott, W. B. Brown, Charles F. Hill,
154 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Moses Miller, Lawrence Furber and George Brockway ; second, the I^ewton party, consisting of the Spencers and others whose names have been heretofore given; third, ,a party consisting of B. F. Parmenter, E. U. Wheelock, iWilliam Lamont, Morris Markham, Alexander Irving, Lewis Hart and R. A. Smith.
These parties were mostly independent of each otlier Imt proposed keeping together as mnch as possible for the purposes of comj)any and protection. It would require too mnch sj^ace to give the details .and incidents of travel along the road. Most persons can imagine what a trip of that kind would be in times of high water across an nnsettled country wi,thout bridges, and without so much as a foot-path for a guide. Add to this the ever-present danger that roving bands of Indians were hov- ering .along the border liable at any time to pnt in an appear- ance when least expected. From this combination of circum- stances it will be readily seen that it was no May day picnic these hardy adventurers were planning for themselves.
After leaving Fort D^odge, which they did on the thirtieth of April, they followed up on the west side of the Des Moines River to a point abont ten miles below where Emmetsbnrg now stands. At this point the ITewton party parted company with the others and struck across the prairie to Olay County for the purpose of examining the land there and making arrangements for carrying out the scheme they had in contem- j^lation relative to laying out the town of Spencer.
The main body followed up the river .a short distance fartlicr and then struck across to Lost Island where they camped on the night of the sixth of May on the north east shore of Lost Island Lake. They arrived at Okoboji on the eighth, about noon. The l^ewton party which had been prosi3ecting about Spencer and Gillett's Grove, arrived the same evening, the entire party going into camp at the Gardner place.
THE CLAIMS OF THE FIRST SETTLERS 155
jSTatiirally the first business to be disposed of after arriving there was the taking of chiims and adjusting their boundaries. One word in reference to the claims of those who had settled here previous to the massacre is in place now. It will he re- membered that the land was unsurveyed and all that anv one could do Avas to "squat" on a piece of land and defend pos- session of it under the laws of the state. Measures were taken as far as possible to settle with the heirs of those holdinc bona fide claims, and in every instance they were paid a valu- able consideration therefor. There was no instance of any person settling upon any bona fide claim that had been im- proved ]irevious to the massacre without an equitable settle- ment having been m,ade with those entitled to receive it.
The impression has gone abroad and is pretty generally l)e- lieved that Doctor Prescott took possession of the Gardner place without making any settlement therefor. Tliis is a mis- take. It will be remembered that Eliza Gardner was at •Springfield at the time of the m.assacre, and, that in cornpany with the other refugees there, went down to Fort Dodge with the return to that place of Major Williams' command, and was in Fort Dodge when Doctor Prescott came back from his first trip to the lakes. William Wilson, who had spent a por- tion of the winter at the lakes and who .afterwards married ]Miss Eliza Gardner, was with the burial party acting as guide. It was through him and Thatcher that the victims of the mas- sacre were identified. The burial party, which was the last of Major Williams' command to report at Fort Dodge, arrived a few days before Prescott and his party.
Wilson and Eliza Gardner were married the day following their arrival in Fort Dodge. Immediately upon Prescott's return, they sought him out and proposed selling out their claims to him, as they had no intention of returning to the lakes. The land being as yet unsurveyed, the boun-
156 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
daries were indefinite. Grardner's claim was along the sliore of West Okoboji Lake, to the south and west of the Gardner cabin. N'ext came his son-in-law% Ilarvev Luce, whose claim adjoined G-ardner's on the east. Luce had rolled up the body of a log- house but had not finished it. , East of that was .Wil- son's claim, which embraced the site of Arnold Park and the land east of it. These were the claims that Wilson and his wife proposed to sell to Prescott. They made a proposition to him which he accepted, paying them down in gold the amount of eleven hundred C$1,100) dollars. In the arrange- ment they were to settle with Abbie (Mrs. Sharp) if she ever returned. She was then a prisoner with the Indians. When she was there the following season, he made another settlement with her, though not so liberal a one as he had formerly made with the Wilsons, upon her representation that she had received 'no part of the money paid to Wilson and his wife for the claim.
Some of Joel Howe's heirs came as far as Port Dodge on their' w,ay to the lakes to look up Mr. Howe's matters, but upon meeting Prescott proposed to sell to him. He accepted their terms, paying them down a good round sum. He also purchased Thatcher's claim of him, paying liberally for it. In every instance the parties expressed themselves as well pleased with the amounts they received and with the manner in wdiich they were treated.
So far as the Harriott claim is concerned, Harriott had made no improvement whatever. He had not resided on the claim at all, neither had he done any of the acts which were even then considered necessary to give validity to a claim on the public land. ■ He simply expressed his intention of doing so at some future period, yet his claim w^as respected for a year. His father was here the summer following the massacre, but made no attempt to either secure or dispose of it, and it lay vacant until the following year. The Granger place w.as also
THE GRANGER PARTY 157
nnoccupied for about a year. The impression that the early- settlers took possession of the homes of the victims of the mas- sacre, without compensation to those rightfully entitled to re- ceive it, is an erroneous one, and it is only justice to them that it be corrected. So far as Prescott's operations were con- cerned, his wrong consisted not in wrongfully getting posses- sion of the claims, but in attempting to hold four or five when the law allowed him to defend his possession to but one.
Mention has heretofore been made of a party from Ked Wing, Minnesota, consisting of the Granger brothers, Harriott and Snyder, who occupied a cabin on a point a little northeast of the Okoboji bridge. All of this party were killed by the Indians excepting 'William Granger, or "Bill" Granger, as he was for years known along the border. For some time pre- vious to the massacre it was more than intimated that a band of horse thieves . and counterfeiters had their headquarters somewhere in the northwest and the Grangers were to some extent connected with it. It was reported that counterfeit money had been put into circulation at different times which had been traced back to them and other little irregularities and crookednesses were attributed to them. Whatever proof there ever was in existence to substantiate these charges is not now known, but it is true that such charges were outspoken among the settlers all along the Des Moines Kiver.
Granger made up a small party at Red Wing and started from there about the s,ame time that the others started from Fort Dodge, and arrived at the lakes about two days later. He assumed to represent the heirs of the different parties who had been killed by the Indians, and with great flourish and bravado he forbade the settling upon or occupying any parcel or tract of land that had been settled upon previous to the massacre, and even went so far as to make his boast of the numl>er of blankets he had put under the sod, and to intimate
158 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
th.at unless those who were there left at once, they would be disposed of in the same summary manner. But he soon found out that he had misjudged his men, and that while they made no exhibitions of bravado or braggadocio, they were not at all inclined to pay any attention to his absurd pretensions.
It will be noticed tliat Granger's claim, which is now known as Smith's Point, and Harriott's, which is now known as Dixon's Beach, were respected and were jiot disturbed until a year after this time, which was after Granger had abandoned all attempts to maintain his footing there.
It has been before stated that Prescott's project was the es- tablishment of an institution of learning. His plan was to secure as desirable a location as possible, lay out a town, and then secure the most desirable tracts of land adjoining and hold them ,as a permanent endowment for the institution. For that purjjose he selected as a site for his town the tract upon the east side of East Okoboji Lake, now known as Tus- culum Grove. As before stated, he bought the claim of Mr. Thatcher and settled with the heirs of Mr. Howe in order that there might be no conflicting claims. He then proceeded to lay out his town, which he named Tusculum, after the coun- try residence of the great Boman orator. That he had under- taken more than he could accomplish soon became evident, but the failure of his scheme will be noted further on.
The plan of Howe, Wheelock and Parmenter was to hit upon some locality most likely to become the county seat and center of business for the county, ,and lay out a town which was to be owned in common, and then take the land adjoining as their individual claims. For this purpose they made the selection of the site where the town of Spirit Lake now stands, and took their claims adjoining. The parties known as the original proprietors of Spirit Lake City, as it w.as then called were O, C. Howe, B. F. Parmenter, R. U. Wheelock
VARIOUS PROJECTS 159
and George E. Spencer. Dr. J. S. Prescott afterwards bought an undivided one-fifth interest in it, giving one thousand dol- lars for it. The county seat was located there in 1858, James Hickey of Palo Alto County, C. C. Smeltzer of Clay County .and S. W. Foreman of O'Brien County acting as commission- ers. It is understood that the proceedings of that commission are lost and that no minutes of their action have been pre- served.
The others who came in at the same time scattered around upon their claims in different localities about the groves and lakes. It is impossible here to give anything like a connected account of all of the different transactions that transpired at the time, but simply to give a passing notice of the most important incidents and those that had the most to do in shaping the course of future events. Other persons came in at different times during the spring and sum- mer of 1857. Henry Barkman with a small party from New- ton came in some time in Jujie. A party from Sparta, Wis- consin, consisting of Rosalvo Kingman, iWilliam Carsley, J. I). Hawkins and G. W. Rogers, put in an appearance on the fourth of July. Jareb Palmer was another of the settlers of that summer. He had previously determined to settle on the Des Moines, but for some reason changed his mind. He was at the house of Mr. Thomas at the time of the attack on Springfield, and rendered valuable assistance in the defense of that place. He was with the refugees when they started down the river, but on meeting Major Williams' forces joined them for the balance of the expedition. From this time on different parties continued to arrive, most of whom were on exploring expeditions, with occasionally one for settlement, but they cannot be noticed in detail.
The fact of the land being unsurveyed and the boundaries of the different claims being but imperfectly defined, there
160 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
was at different times considerable trouble in regard to con- flicting claims. It has been the lot of all new countries to have more or less claim quarrels, and while those of this locality were not as sanguinary as many that have transpired in other places, it was by no m.eans free from them, but they w^ere not carried to the ext€n,t this season that they were afterwards. They were confined mostly to Granger's attempt to enforce re- spect for his bogus pretensions that he was acting as agent or representative of the heirs of the victims of the massacre. Finding his authority disregarded and his pretensions un- heeded, he, as a last resort, endeavored to frighten the inhabi- tants away by reporting that the Indians were about to make another raid on the settlement. Failing in this, he and his party gathered up their effects and left. While the settlers werfe somewhat apprehensive of danger from the Indians and were on the alert as much as possible to guard against sur- prise, yet they were too much in earnest to l>e frightened away without good cause. Keports of Indians hovering along the border were occasionally put into circulation, but there were no depredations or outbreaks during the summer.
One of the results of these periodical Indian scares was the building of the old fort at Spirit Lake, which, as one of the oldest landmarks, deserves a passing notice. The town site as selected before the United States survey was made, was nearly half .a mile north of its present location. After the site had been decided upon, a building was erected which was intended to be a kind of general headquarters, all contribut- ing towards its erection. It was a log building about 24x30 feet with a shake roof and puncheon floor .and doors. I^ot a foot of lumlx'r Avas used in its construction. Around the out- side of the building, at a distance of from six to ten feet, a stockade was erected, which was formed of logs cut ten feet Ions; ,and about eight inches in thickness. These were set on-
FIRST KELIGIOUS .MEETING IGl
end in a trench from two and a half to three feet deep. A well was dug inside of the stockade. This building was erected in June and July, 1857, and stood there about two years, when it was torn down and the hotel then known as the Lake View House was erected on or near the same spot. During its short existence it had rather an eventful history and will be referred to again.
As would be natural under the circumstances, the settlers scattered around the lakes in different localities and had two or three places as their general rendezvous, or headquarters. The largest number gathered at Spirit Lake, and several small cabins were built in the immediate vicinity of the old fort. It was the intention, in case of an outbreak or attack by the Indians, for all j)arties to gather at the fort and make such defense as they were able. A second party, including W. B. Brown, C. F. Hill, William Lament .and one or two others, had their headquarters in Center Grove. A third, consisting of Prescott and his hired men, was at Okoboji, at the old "Gardner Place."
The first religious services in the county were held at the Gardner place, on Sunday, May 11, 1857, and conducted by Rev. J. S. Prescott, and deserve more than a passing mention. As has been heretofore mentioned, Prescott was a speaker of extraordinary ability and one to whom it was a pleasure to listen, no matter what a person's particular religious ideas might be. But that fact was not known then. It became pat- ent later on. On the evening preceding that Sunday morning, word was sent around to the different cabins that there would be religious services at the Gardner place, the following day. Accordingly at the appointed hour the crowd assembled to the number of from fifteen to twenty. It was a unique sight, especially to those who had just come from the East, to see those rough looking, hardy pioneers on their way to church, come
162 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
filing along, either singly or in parties of two or three, dressed in their red shirts, without coats or vests and with their rifles in their hands, their ammunition slung from their shoulders, and leather belts about their waists, from most of which dan- gled revolvers. Singular as such a spectacle would be at the present time, it was strictly in keeping with the surroundings of that occasion. As the parties arrived they disposed of their arms by standing them in the most convenient corner and then arranged themselves about the room on stools and benches or any thing else that would do duty as .a seat. The parties were mostly strangers to each other at that time, and wdiether they were about to listen to the wild harangues of a pro- fessional ^^Bible whaiiger,'' as a certain type of frontier preach- ers "were then designated, or to be treated to an interesting and intelligent discourse on some live topic, they did not know^, nor did they much care. It was a change, and the nov- elty was enough to bring them out. Promptly at the appointed hour the exercises were oj^ened by Prescott reading the hymn,
"A charge to keep I have, A God to glorify A never dying soul to save And fit it for the sky."
Wheelock led the singing, assisted by C. F. Hill and Law- rence Furber. ISText was prayer by Doctor Prescott. And such .a prayer. After the dangers, hardships and privations that little party had endured for the last month, it cer- tainly was a spiritual and intellectual treat not soon to be for- gotten. He made a fervent appeal that the divine blessing be vouchsafed there and then on this first attempt to establish and foster the growth of a true and genuine religious senti- ment, that should broaden and deepen as the settlement that was then being founded should grow older and stronger.
After prayer a second hymn was sung, and then the text announced, "Be strong and show thyself a man." The sermon
THE EARLY STYLE OF LIVING 163
was one long to be remembered by every one who beard it. It was a plain, simple and direct appeal to every one present to realize the position wbicb he at that moment occupied. They were reminded of the importance of asserting there and then the princiijles and practices which should govern them in the future. They were reminded that "like seeks like" in emi- gration as in other things, and tliat in the moral, intellectual and religious tone of the society which they then inaugurated they would see the counterpart of the emigration they would attract. If the first settlers adopted a high plane of moral and intellectual development, the emigration that would fol- low would be of the same high character. On the other hand, if the standard were made low, it would be the low and de- praved class that would be attracted by it. In conclusion he appealed to all present to use their best endeavors to build up in this frontier country such moral and social conditions as they would wish to have their names associated with by future generations. The entire discourse was delivered in that plain, simple, and yet dignified and scholarly manner that al- ways commands respect and .admiration. After the close of the services the parties all filed out as they came, and it is not recorded whether anv luckless ducks or chickens fell vie- tims to their marksmanship on their return to their cabins, l)ut considering the scarcity of provisions at that time, such a violation of the Sabbath would have been deemed excusable if ]iot justifiable.
The manner and style of living in those early days was decidedly primitive. If a person now wishes to ascertain how few of the comforts of life are really necessary and how many of them can be dispensed with, he can gain a vast amount of such instruction by a few years of pioneering. Perhaps it would not be out of place to give in this connection some kind of an idea of the manner of living here in those early times.
164 DICKINSON COUNTY IOWA
"Keeping bach," as it was termed by the boys, is particularly and peculiarly a pioneer institution. Men don't know wli.ar they can do until they are tested. They don't knOw their own capacities or capabilities until circumstances bring them out. Xow it will be remembered that there were no women in the settlement, and most of the men were of that class who give the least attention to household affairs, many of them hailing direct from stores and offices, and of the class usually desig- nated by the phrase "fine haired," and while possessed of a goodly share of intelligence and general information, were wholly ignorant of the mysteries connected with the .art of keeping shirts and pants in rejDair and converting bacon and flour into edibles. Could all of the ludicrous incidents and ridiculous experiences of those times be properly written up they would, by no means, form an uninteresting chapter.
The settlers, a majority of whom were young men, were scattered in their little cabins in the neighborhood of the sev- eral groves where they commenced, .for the first time, the solu- tion of the great problem of what it takes to make up the measure of human happiness. There was nothing very pecu- liar al)out the cabins themselves. In short they could not very well have been much dift'erent from what they were without being peculiar. They Avere usually small and low" and covered with either skakes or sods. A board and shingle roof was an extravagance not to be thought of. The door and window, or more commonly a half window, were set in one side, while a large stone fireplace was at the end, with a chimney made of clay and sticks up the outside. But it is in the internal ar- rangement and fixtures that the greater peculiarities are no- ticeable.
In one corner stands the bunk, which is one, two or three tiers high, according to the number that are expected to occupy it. These bunks, which were filled with pr.airie hay and cov-
THE EAKLY STYLE OF LIVING 165
ered with a few blankets thrown over them, composed the sleeping accommodations. A shelf running along the back wall of the cabin and resting upon several huge pins is indespens- able in every well regulated establishment. Its contents are worthy a moment's notice. First, and in the most convenient place, is a pipe and tobacco, next a copy of Shakespeare, then a Bible and a pack of cards lie as peacefully together as mem- bers of Barnum's "Happy Family," while Scott's poems, Wav- erly novels, "Pilgrim's Progress" and Davies' Mathematics swell the list.
Mixed up among the literary treasures are boxes of ammu- nition, fishing tackle and, as the Yankee peddlers say, "other articles too numerous to mention," while scattered .about in curious confusion are various articles of household use, which usually consisted of .a sheet iron coffee pot, a frying pan, or skillet, as the boys usually called it, a few inj tin plates and cups, and possibly the luxury of knives .and forks.
The mystery of bread making was usually a stumper, or, as Barnum, in his molasses candy experience, expresses it, the rock on which they split, and many and varied were the ri- diculous experiences of the pioneer's first bread making. Wash- ing was another obstacle that required all of their patience and philosophy to overcome.
CHAPTEE XIV.
NAMING THE LAKES ORGANIZING, THE COUNTY
hill's TRIP TO SIOUX CITY TO OBTAIN THE OR- DER FOR THE ELECTION THE ELECTION HELD
OFFICERS ELECTED CARRY'ING IN THE RETURNS
THE BOOM THE PANIC ITS EFFECT ON THE
SETTLEMENT THE FIRST SAWMILL^THE FIR^ST
FAMILY AFTER THE MASSACRE PETERS AND THE
OLD RED MILL THE GENERAL ELECTION — -THE
FIRST PARTY" OF MINNESOTA INDIANS TO VENTURE
INTO THE STATE AFTER THE MASSACRE TROUBLE
OiSr THE LITTLE SIOUX TROOPS ASKED FOR THE
LEGISLATURE AUTHORIZES THE RAISING. OF A COM- PANY. '•
I]\[POKTANT among the first acts of the settlers was the naming of tlie different hikes, or rather familiarizing themselves with the names they had already received. Spirit Lake had l)-een known l)y the Indians as Minnie Waukon, and l)y the French as Lac d'Espr'd. Professor Mc- Bride, in his report of the geological survey of the county, unearths a somewhat amusing instance of the comical results of attemp,ting to apply English orthography to French words, lie says : ''The redonhtahle Clarke in his notes relates how 'The Ceuoux River passes through Lake Despree.' If this matter had not been corrected hy the French interpreter, in all probability Spirit Lake would have gone on to the maps ,as Lake Depree, and by tliis time local archeologists would hav3 been puzzling tlieir brains in a vain attempt to ascertain and explain its origin and meaning. Granger and his party nuule
NAMING THE LAKES 167
an attempt to have it called Green Lake, but it did not succeed."
East Okoboji Lake was called by the Dacotahs "Okoboozhy," and West Okoboji ''Minnietonka," signifying Big Water. Minnietonka was and is the name of a somewhat celebrated lake in Minnesota, and to avoid confusion the Iowa Minnie- tonka was abandoned and West Okoboji adopted instead. Granger made an attempt to name iWest Okoboji "Lake Har- riott," in honor of Doctor Llarriott. .and East Okoboji, "Rice Lake," in honor of Senator Henry M. Rice, then Lnited States senator from Minnesota, but the inhabitants tinally settled down upon the present names, East and West Okoboji.
The origin and meaning of the word Okoboji is a little un- certain. Professor MacBride says, ''place of rest." The pre- ponderance of testimony, however, seems to l)e that Oko])oji simply means "rushes." Mrs. jWood, who was for years a suc- cessful teacher .among the Dacotahs, gave that as the meaning, ' "And there are others."
The impression exists in some quarters that Oko])oji was a powerful Sioux chief, who formerly had his headquarters in Okoboji Grove, and that the lake was named for him. The question is often asked where Okoboji was l)uried, but as has been before explained, such belief is wholly unfounded.
The Indian name of Center Lake is unknown. Previous to the massacre it Avas called by the first settlers Snyder's Lake, for Bert Snyder, who had a claim on the east side of it. After that for a year or two it was called Sylvan Lake, but finally that name was dropped and the present name. Center Lake, substituted, which has come into general use.
Gar Lake was at first designated by Granger as Carl Lake in honor of Carl Granger. Whether the name Gar Lake is a corruption of that cannot be positively stated, but the ])re- sumption is that it is not, as the outlet was known by the name of Gar Outlet long before anvone knew anvthing about
168 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Granger's name for tlic lake. It had its origin in a little inci- dent which, though not important, may be worth telling.
On the evening of the day of the arrival of the first party of settlers subsequent to the massacre, as a small party of the boys were cruising around on a voyage ,of discovery, they brought up .at the outlet in which were a school of gars work- ing their way upstream. The boys had never heard of such a fish and thought them pickerel and became much excited. One of them ran to the cabin where he procured a spear which they had brought along, and f(u- two hours they waded up and down the outlet spearing and throwing out the worthless g.ars. When they tired of that they strung what they could carry on some poles and started for the cabin with their wonderful catch. Upon arriving there a young fellow from Illinois saw Avhat they were and exclaimed : ''Boys, those are gars and are no earthly good." When the boys became convinced that they had had all their work and wetting for nothing, and that their fish were indeed worthless, thev were somewhat crestfallen. Thev took the guying they received from the others in good part, but it was some time before they heard the last of their won- derful exploits. And this is how Gar Outlet first received its name, and Gar Lake soon followed.
Recently the name of Middle Gar has been ch.anged to '"'Minnie Washta." Washta is the Dacotah synonym for good or nice. Originally there were three lakes known as the Gar Lakes, forming a chain about two miles in length, and were called Upper, Middle .and Lower Gar Lakes. The outlet for the Okobojis is through this chain. Middle Gar, or Minnie Washta, as it is now called, is the finest of the three. The other two retain their old names of Upper and Lower Gar Lakes. Various considerations seemed to emphasize the fact that it would be desirable to organize the coimty at as early a date as possible. 'While nominally attached to Woodbury
ORGANIZING IHE COUNTY
169
BRIDGE BETWEEN MINNIE WASHTA AND GAR LAKE.
Count}' for judicial and financial purposes, it was practically outside of any civil jurisdiction whatever. It was early fore- seen that it would be a great advantage to he able to settle all questions liable to arise in the future under the forms and provisions of the statutes. It was therefore determined to organize at the earliest practical period, which would be at the August election. That election was held on the first Tues- day in August, 1857, at the liouse of J. S. Prescott. Under the law as it then stood it was necessary to send in a petition signed by two-thirds of the voters of the new county to the county judge of the county to which it was attached and if in his judgment the interests of the county demanded it, he issued an order for the organization of the new county.
The petition for organization had twenty names attached, and was taken to Sioux City by C. F. Hill some time in June. John K. Cook was at that time county judge of Woodbury County. He issued an order for holding the election, which was held accordingly. The first ofiicers
170
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
elected were as follows: (). ('. Howe, Coiiiity Judge; B. F. J'arineiiter, Proseciitiiiii' Attorney; M. A. Blan- chard. Treasurer and Ret-nrder; K, A. Suiirli, ('Ifrk of tli;- Distrier Courr; ('. F. Hill, Sheriff; Alfred AVilkius, ('..uut\ Surveyor; W. B. Browu, Coruiicr. R. IJ. Wlieelock and li. A. Smith wvYc elected Justices of the Peace. After the elec- tion it was necessary that the returns he sent to Sioux C'ity, and that either the county I'udii'e, district attorney or clerk of the district court elect go before the judge of Woo(ll)nrv Connty .and give honds for his aj^proval and lie swum in in dne f(u-ni. This journey fell to tlie lot of the clerk of the district court.
These trips to Sioux City were no holiday affairs. The ronte by which they were made was to strike out in a westerly direction to the head (d" tlic Fhivd and foll<iw-that stream to
NATURAL TERRACE ON WEST OKOBOJI.
hill's visit to SIOUX CITY 171
Sioux City. There were no settlements on the route until within eight miles of the city. The time required for mak- ing the trip was seven days ; the distance one hundred and twentv miles each wav, or two hundred and f(n"tv mih's in all. Let a person imagine himself taking a trip that distance alone on horseback, drinking from the streams he might chance to cross, eating a dry lunch from his portnuniteau, at night roll- ing up in a saddle l)lanket with the saddle under his head as a pillow, his horse ])icket('d l)y his side, and with no prol)a- bilitv of seeinp- a human being for the next three davs, and he can form some idea of what those trips were. Add to this the ever-present danger that roving bands of Indians were continually hovering along the border ready at any mo- ment to waylay any luckless adventurer who may have ventured bevond the line of the settlements, and it will l)e understood that no slight amount of courage and hardihood were exhibited in their successful accomplishment.
The following letter, written by C. F. II ill and published in the Sioux City Journal, June 10, 1000, conveys a pretty vivid idea of what these early trips were. In his letter ^h\ Hill says :
''Hazleton, Pa., June 4, 1900. — Xeil Bonner, Sioux City. Iowa. — Bear Sir: Yours of ^May 30, referring to my earlv visit to Sioux City, is received. In the spring of IS.")? I located at S])irit Lake, shortly after the massacre took place under Inkpadutah, and I heli)ed bury some of the dead that had been overlooked by the soldiers sent down from Fort Rids'lev. About the month of Mav, 1857, the settlers at Spirit Lake decided to organize Dickinson County, which be- fore that had been attached with all northwestern Iowa to Woodbury County, and I was designated to go to Sioux City and o-et an order from the court there to hold .an election and organize Dickinson County.
''I started out on my mission mounted on an Indian pony which had both ears badly burned in a prairie fire, and accom-
172 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Ijaiiied by a vuiiiig man by the name of Barnnm, a relative of P. T. Barnnm, rhe great showman. Barnnm was on foot, and as he was ,a good fellow, I shared my lumy with him and allowed him to ride half of the time. After we left Spirit Lake we did not reach a white man until we reached the Bdoyd River in Plymouth County, where we met a party, of surveyors, who were staking- out Plvmouth C^itv. Barnum and I were o-lad to meet these men, and we begged the privilege of camping near them, which they reluctantly granted. The next day we reached Sioux City, and put up at the Sioux City House, a story and a li.alf building, and to my great surprise T found it kept by the Trescott Brothers, Wesley and Milo, who ^vere from near Shickshinny, Pa. I kne^y them well, but I had some little trouble in nmking myself known to them, as my camp life, my leggings, Indian pony and other Ind'ian hxings led rhem to believe that I was a half-breed, which amused my companion very juu.ch.
"Xext day 1 looked up his honur, the Judge of Woodbury Countv, and in a dav or two had matters all arranoed to start the wheels of fijovernment for Dickinson Countv. .While I re- mained at Sioux City I heard inucli talk that the remains of Sergeant Floyd were expose<l by the action of the !Miss(uiri liiver. and the citizens were about to remove the renniins to another bluif, where the aggressive Missouri River could not reach them. A man by the name of Brughier, a Frenchman, lived at the mouth of the Big Sioux River, and he had two squaw wives.
"Sioux City at that time was an unpretentious village of one story and story and a half frame houses. The town was hemmed in closely by bluifs, which were so numerous and so close together as in some cases to admit only of .a wagon road between them. I remember many interesting incidents while in the city, regarding the Indians who came there. I remem- ber a one story clothing store on the wharf wdiich had a' large picture on canvas of an elephant, which the boys called tjlie iand elephant.' The land elephant was the great aninud of those days, and wo<' to the poor fellow who indulge<l in too ]nuch land and allowed the elephant to lie down on him.
AN INDIAN CAROUSAL.
''Having completed the object of my mission, I made my ar- rangements to return to Spirit Lake, and was directed to a
AN INDIAN CAROUSAL 173
saloon, restaurant and grocery store, where I could purchase a supply of provisions for my return. /While selecting iny outfit a band of Indians and half-breeds entered. They seemed to have plenty of money and one of the braves called up the drinks for all hands. They were all well arnued and in .a state of carousal that would have laid 'Pat in a Grog Shop' in his palmiest days in the shade, 'i'hc brave who was treating stepped up to me and in an animated tone asked:
" 'Are you my fren V
"I replied: 'Oh, yes, I am your friend.'
" 'Then come and take a drink wi' me.'
"I declined with numy apologies.
" 'Then you no my fren.'
"I. thought I saw trouble .ahead and I quickly changed my mind, as I had just discovered that I did want a drink, and T stepped up to the bar and took a ration of ^lissouri corn whisky. I proceeded with ])reparing my outfit, when a sec- ond brave asked me to take a drink with him. This invita- tion followed the first in such quick succession tli.at I was forced to decline, when he sang out:
"'You drink wi' him — you no drink wi' me-— eh?'
"So I was in for a second ration, and so it went on, grow- ing more lively. At no time was it long between drinks, and J devoted the brief time between drinks to collecting my pur- chases and completing my outfit, and at the first opportunity that offered I made a straight coattail out of the door. And as I walked up the street I wondered how that poor bartender expected to gx^t out of that green corn whisky dance alive. He, however, had a six inch Colt's revolver lying on the bar be- liind him in easy reach. It was wonderful what a inspect a Colt's revolver inspired for its owner in that day.
"Well, I was happy. I escaped that drunken, carousing band of Indians and was pleased with my little outfit, which contained a bottle of raspberry syrup, one can of peaches and a box of good cigai-s. ^Mr. Trescott was very kind to me and asked for my pocket compass which he compared with a sur- veyor's instrument and it was j^ronounced correct. This was the last thing done. T was now ready to start for Spirit Lake ali>iu\ as Barnum did not return with me.
174 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA ,
LOST ON THE PRAIRIE.
"Sherman's battery bad passed through the country a few days before, enroiite from Fort Scott to Fort Ridgley, in Min- nesota, and it liad k^ft a Avell beaten trail along the Floyd River. This battery suffered severely in the first battle of Bull Run, July 22, 1861. ' On my way back L decided to follow this trail as far as I could north and then I left it in a right line for Spirit Lake. I left this trail either in Buncond)€ (noAV Lyon) or Osceola County. In the following day, while riding under a hot noon-day sun, L became very somnolent and slept while riding. In fact, I fell off my pony, and then I tied my pony to my foot with my lariat and lay down and slept it out. When I awTjke, to my great surju'ise, the sun was in the north. I now had to resort to my pocket compass to discover, if I could wdiat had cone wrona' witli the sun. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that the compass was just as erratic as the sun. It now l)('gan to dawn upon me that my idea of direction was nniddh'd and'I was lost. The question now .arose, Where am 1 ( Whi^'h wav have I been traveling? Which wav shall I <io ^
'T, however, took a course and while riding along I sud- denly came u]>(>n what seemed to me to be a camp of Indian tepees on the prairie. My first thought was to tnrn back, and then I was afraid if I should be discovered the Indians would give chase, so I decided tlie l)est thing I could do was to move right on, which I did, and when I neared the supposed cami> of tepees, to my great surprise up jnmpeil a herd of elk 'ind ran away over a divide. The elk horns Avhich I saw were so magTiified by the clear atmosphere that I mistook them for te- j)ees.
"After the herd ran over the divide I heard several shots fired, and as there were no white men in that country, as I believed, I made u]) my mind th.at the shots had been fired by Indians. I did not want to meet any Indians, yet I was curious to know from whence the shots came, so I dismounted and crept cautiously to the top of the divide; the elk had disappeared, bnt I saw a man going in the opposite direction to which I was going, and I, for the time, was greatly relieved. After going a few miles I was liailed by two men coming tow^ards me, whom I took for In- dians, and I tried hard to avoid tlK'ni, and they tried as hard
THE FIKST ELECTION 175
to intercept me. They finally waved their hats, and then I knew they were white men and tnrned to meet them. When we met these two men simply exhausted t'heir vocabulary of l)rofanity on me. They Avere members of a party of govern- ment surveyors .and said they had not seen a white man for so long- that they almost had a mind t<» shoot me for trying to evade them. They soon informed me that their chief surveyor, Alfred 'Wilkins, was lost and they were trying to find him. I then related the incident of the elks and how T saw a man going in the opposite direction that I came. They then ])ut one of their party on a horse and started him .after him with a very large tin horn. He returned to camp during the night with the lost survevor all rii>ht.
"I camped with the party and ,at nur mess I shared with them some of the delicacies T had brought with me from Sioux City, which they enjoyed, especially the cigars. They now informed me that I was in Osceola County, and in the morn- ing gave me the direction to take to reach Spirit Lake. F was glad that I had not wandered awav farther than T did, for had they told me that I had wandered into the then un- ceded territory of D,akota I would have scarcely been pre])ar:Ml to dispute it. However, I consoled myself Avith the tliouglir that if I was lost the government surveyor had undergone a similar experience. 'Misery loves company.'
DICKINSON COUNTY ORGANIZED
"T reached Spirit Lake the next day, and soon posted the notices for the election in Dickinson County. The election came and Ave elected a full line of county and tOAvnship oflicers. T had the honor of being elected the first sheriff. The election over, Ave held a jollification, made speeches, etc. O. C. HoA\'e in a speech said Ave had the most independent set of ofticers he ever knew, that each man in the county had an office of some kind, and we OAved no thanks to anyone, as Ave had elected ourselves. The election passed off very quietly. There AA^erc no charges of ballot box stuffing and no contests. It certainly was an honest election, and I knoAV of no election since that I liave had the same good opinion of. Every man had an office and the harmony that folloAved was great. The secret of good government and honest election lies in the ])lan of giving every man .an office. If the administration at Washington will act on
176 DICKINSON COUNTY ■ loWA
the line of this tliooi-v thci-c will 1h' un reason why tnrhulciir Kentucky in time slionld not become as peaceable ami order loving as Ohio. I make no chariic for this ti]). ( '. F. Hill."
Mr. Hill in his letter mentions the fact that ''a few days before Sherman's battery had ])asse(l froni. Foi't Scott to Fort Ridgley in ^linnesota, and that in doing so they left a well beaten trail .along the Floyd River to the state line, which they crossed near the northwest corner of Osceola County." This trail was visible for years and served as a road throngh that conntry when going to Sionx City from here. The ])ractici> was to go west until that trail w.as struck and then follow it. Later the usual route to Sioux City was l)y way of Peterson and Cherokee, then across the prairie to JMelbourne. By this route a fifty mile ])rairi'(' had to be crossed without a house. "Twelve mile slouch" and "twentv mile slouoli" were as well known by the early traveler .as stopping places as the leading hotels now are.
It is well known as a historical fact that during the years of 1S55 and 1850, there had been a rush of emigration to Uie W(^st, such as had hitherto been unknown. Peojde neg- lected their legitimate business and numy run wild in town lot .and real estate speculations. Emigration had been boom- ing and all kinds of pro])erty throughout the West advanced in valne at fabulous rates. Vast amounts of money were loaned at as high rates as five jier cent a month for the purpose of investing in western lands. Everybody w.as dealing in real estat-e. Towns were laid out and railroads projected in every possible direction. The wildest extravagance took the place of judicious economy and luisiness sense. This state of affairs could not last, but finally culminated in the financial crash of 1857, which every one admits was induced by over speculation.
The revulsion was instantaneous and complete, and no Avhere \\'ere the consequences more severely felt than on the frontier.
TIIK l^AMC OF 1857 1 T7
Emigration immediately came to a standstill, real estate bo- came valueless and town property a byword. The gold was soon swept out of the country and the cnrreney w.as worth- less. Perhaps there are some at this time who don't under- stand what w.as im])lied in a bank failure previous to the time of the national banks. Xot only did the depositors suffer, bnt the lull holders as well. Many l)anks were based on the fictitious and inflated values prevalent at that time, and when the bottom fell out, depositor and bill holder went to ruin to- gether. All projected enterprises .and improvements were for the time abandoned.
The effect of this state of affairs upon the frontier settle- ments was disastrous in the extreme, and in no place was the depressing effects felt more keenly than in this county. To remain here seemed to court a life of hardship and privation, while to return to the older settled portions of the country offered nothing that w.as much better. It was the old orthodox dilem- ma, "You are lost if you do, and you are lost if you don't." Of course the conditions of the settlers l>ecame much changed. Frontier life, instead of being a short period of adventure which in a few years would be rewarded by positions of influ- ence and affluence, became a desperate struggle with adverse circumstances for existence.
Some emigration came in in the fall of 1857, but in most cases it was made uj) of persons who had l>een stripped of their property by the |)anic and struck for the frontier to try their luck anew. In the fall of 1857 a couple of men n.amed Isaac Jones and William Miller, from Storv Countv, luouaht in a small steam sawmill, which they set up on the bank of East Okoboji Lake, at a point a little southwest of the Ste- vens' baatlanding. It was a small aft'air, but it supplied a want that had been severely felt. Previous to this time no lumber had been used in the construction of the cabins. Doors,
178 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
window frames, door frames, stools and benches had been eon- strncted by sj^litting out puncheons from the bodies of trees and then dressing them down to the desired thickness with a hand ax and jack plane. Heretofore the nearest mill was at Algona.
The first man to bring- his family into the county subse- quent to the massacre w.as Hon. O. C. Howe, who arrived here with his wife and one child on the sixth of August. Mrs. Howe w.as the first woman to set foot in the county after the massacre, and her coming was counted as an event of consid- erable interest, if not importance. Their daughter, a bright girl of three or four years of age, was the first child in the settlement. It had been from two to four months since anv of the boys had seen either woman or child, and it was wonderful what a transformation the contact wrought in their habits and deportment.
Xot much was done at farming during the summeii. Some few had breaking done on their claims, but as a rule, farming was neglected. In fact, but few h.ad come here to fann any- way. They had come to secure government land, which they imagined would soon appreciate in value, thereby making them forehanded. They were wiser after two or three years^ experience. Had they gone into stockraising for all there was in it, and kept at it during all those years when the vacant ])rairies stretching indefinitely in every direction furnished unlimited range for stock, they might have made a good thing- of it, provided the straggling parties of marauding Indians tliat infested the frontier up to 1863 did not come in and com- pel them to divide profits. But then they were like the pro- verbial Uutchman, their foresight was not near so good as their back sight.
The second man to bring his family was Rosalvo Kingman, who came from Sparta, Wisconsin. Mr. Kingman was first
IHE OLD KED MILL 179
here early in July, then went back for his family and returned sometime in Se2)tember. About the same time a roving char- acter by the name of Thurston came along with his family and spent the winter, but left early in the spring. These three, with a Mrs. Peters, who lived upon the isthmus between East Okoboji and Spirit Lake, constituted the sum total of female society in Dickinson County during the Avinter of 1857 and 1858.
Tlie mention of the name of Peters brings to mind the old red mill which may as well be noticed here as anywhere. In the fall of 1857 a man by the name of James S. Peters, from Bureau County, Illinois, conceived the project of building a mill on the isthmus between Spirit and East Okoboji Lakes, and for that purpose cut a race across from one lake to the other. There was at that time nearly eight feet difference in the level of the two lakes, so that had the water supply been sufficient the mill could eventually have been made a success.
In the summer of 1858, with the assistance of such of the inhabitants as had faith enough in the project to lend a help- ing hand, Peters succeeded in getting up the frame and putting in the machinery, which was of a very rude and primitive character, having made the most of it himself. He finally got the mill in operation in 1859, but his work was so unsatisfactorv and defective that it was a failure. The supply of water was also insufficient, as was afterwards proven. Peters was a half crazy fanatic and a believer in witchcraft, and when by reason of low water or the imprefections of his machinery his mill refused to work, he invariably ascribed it to some person having bewitch- ed his machinery. Having decided in his own mind who the guilty person was, he would draw an outline of their profile with a piece of chalk on an oak tree that stood near the mill, and then would sometime spend a half day at a time shooting
180 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the figure with silver Inillcts. He seems to have iiiiaiiiiied that if he could oulv liit ii])on the right ix'rson and then shoot his figure with a silver bullet, that the spell wouhl he broken and his power over him and his operations would cease. He was always very careful to cut the bullets out again after he had exhausted his sup])ly. After trying in vain to do something with his mill f(n" a year or two, dividing his time about ecpially l)etween Avitcdies and woi'k, he sold it to Stim]i- son and Davis, of Ennuet County, wIki ovei'hauled it. l»ur failed to achieve .any great success.
The story is told that one day a halfwitted chap from the head of S])irit Lake was down to the mill waiting for his grist, and getting impatient, remarke(l tliat he could eat the grain faster than that mill could grind it. "Well, hut," said ytimpson, "h(tw long coudd you do it V '*I"ntil I starved to death," re})lied the boy.
Stimpson ke]it the mill until 18(i!t, when he disposed of it TO Oliver (\)m])ton, who overhauled it again thoroughly, ]»ut- ting in an entire new set of first-class machinery. But it was of no use, the water power was a failure. The drawing of the water out of S])irit J^ake h.ad lowered that lak;' and raised Okoboji accordingly, and the ])roject, after sinking ■several thousand dollars in it, had to bo abandoned. The old frame was torn down afterwards and the timbers used for bridge timbers.
Among those who were here previous to the massacre were Philip Kisling and Kobert Madison, from Delaware (bounty, both of whom were stopping temi)orarily with the Mattock fam- ily. Ahuiii' al)out the holidays Rfisline; Avent back to his home, but ^Fadison remained liere, and as a consequenee fell a victim ro the massacre. In the summer of 1857, ]\[r. Risling, with a party of neighbors, consisting of William Ohbnan, George Deit- rick, Levi Daugherty and William WisegarvtM*, came out, bring-
FIRST SETTLEME^T ON THE LITTLE SIOUX 181
ing with them coffins for the interment of their friends, the Mattocks .and Madison. They brought seven coffins in all. They disinterred the bodies of their friends and took them ont sonthwest on the prairie and bnried them on Mr. Oldham's claim. The place has since become the property of Wood Allen.
Instead of taking his claim al)ont the lakes, Mr. Risling took liis claim ' down on the Little Sionx. Shortly after that some half dozen claims were taken over on the Little Sionx, the earlier ones by Moses Miller, Andrew Oleson, Gnnder and Omen !^Iattheson. A little later H. Meeker and Mr. (^lose commence*! their enterjnnse of bnild- ing a mill on the ontk^t wliich they abandoned a conple of years later. Before the close of the war this settlement was reinforced bv R. R. Wilcox .and Hiram Davis, wdio also took claims on the Sionx. This little settlement, althongh insig- nificant in nnmbers, was important from the fact that it was tlie first point reached after crossing a forty mile prairie, in coming from Sionx CUty by way of Peterson and Cherokee. Mose Miller's shack Avas small and dirty and inconvenient bnt the light from his window looked mighty cheerfnl and eneonr- aging to a person who had been toiling all day throngh the snow across that inhospitable prairie withont meeting a hnman being or seeing a vestige of anything indicating the existence of civilized life.
We will now" resume the current of events wliich we have been considering as having occnrred in the fall of 1857 and the winter of 1857 and 1858. Under the old constitntion, we had tw.o fall elections, one in Angiist when the conntv offi- cers were chosen, and one in October when state and legisla- tive officers were elected. The August election has already been noticed. This county at that time was embraced in the Fort Dodge representative district. C. C. Carpenter and John
182 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
F. Dnnconibe, both of Fort Dodge, were the opposing candi- dates. The vote of this county was ahnost unanimous for Carpenter. After the vote had l)een (hily canvassed and cer- tified to, then the question arose how were the returns to be sent in in time to be counted. There was no^jostoffice and no mails, and it w.as imt known that any person was going out l)y whom the returns couhl be sent in time. In this dilemma it became nec- . essary for some one to volunteer to carry "in the returns. It was iinallv arranged that R. A. Smith should take them to Fort Dodge, l)ut fortunately, on reaching the Des Moines River, on the evening of the first day out he fell in with R. E. Carpenter, a brother of C. C, who was on his way to the lakes for the pur- pose of getting them. The election was very close, the returns from this county deciding it in favor of Carpenter, and tlie county has stood l)y him loyally ever since.
The winter of 1857 and 1858 w,as a remarkably mild one and in marked contrast with the one previous. There was no difficulty in getting in a sufficient^ supply of provisions. The hard times did not affect the people here, so seriously then a> later. The total nundier wintering at the lakes that winter was not far from forty. At this time there luid l)een erected .about a half dozen cabins in the immediate region of the old fort, and they made up in hjgli sounding names what they lacked in pretentious appearance. The "St. Charles" was a one room log cabin, with a large stone fireplace in one end, while a short distance from it Av.as the "St. Cloud," a cabin about twelve by fourteen feet and al)out seven feet high with a' half window and a dirt roof. Still further on was the "St. Bernard," where three or four of the boys divided their time that winter between reading Shakespeare and playing seven- up.
Although no outbreak had occurred, manv entertained seri- ous apprehensions of danger from the Indians. While there
A "brush" with INDIANS 183
was no serious alarm felt, all acknowledged the necessity of being on the alert and keeping a sharp lookout for danger. At one time, in order to allay the fears of the women and chil- dren, .a system of standing sentry was adopted, whereby two men Avere selected each night to do duty as .a kind of picket guard hy j^atrolling the immediate neighborhood of the fort imd cabins. After a while this became monotonous and was finally alxandoned.
A small party of Indians representing themselves as belong- ini>: to Little Crow's band from the Yellow Medicine Affencv, put in an appearance here some time in January. Tliey claimed to lielong to the same party that had rendered such signal service in rescuing Mrs. Marble and Abigail Gardner from the Indians the previous year. They camped in ( "enter Grove, and remained there about six weeks, when they re- turned to Minnesota. The leader of this Ivand called himself Little John, and claimed to be a son of Little Crow, which claim was afterwards known to be false. Little ( 'row was not so well known then as he was later. Later in The winter a party near Peterson, in Clay County^ had a lu'ush with a small party of Indians. Mr. Jareb Palmer, of Spirit Lake, who was then carrying the mail from there to Sioux City, was a member of the party. After a running tight for about an hour, in which one or two were slightly wounded, but no one seriously, the settlers drcAV off, leaving the Indians in posses- sion of the field.
This affair created a considerable alarm, and it was decided to apply to the state for protection. A meeting was called at the "old fort" to consider the situation, and a committee ap- pointed to draw up a petition and present the matter to the state authorities. The legislature was in session. A state- ment of the affair and a petition to the legislature asking immedi.ate assistance was drawn up. Mr. Jareb Palmer was
184 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
selected tu take tlie ])etition to Des Moines and lay it before the authorities.
C. C. Carpenter represented this district. lie took hold of the matter in earnest, and in the shortest time possible, a bill was ])assed providing- for the raising" of a company of vol- unteers for the defense of the northwestern frontier. The company was raised ])rincipally in ITamilton and Webster Counties, though not entirely. Upon .arriving at the lakes, the captain was authorized to enlist ten additional men from the settlers here. The names of these additional enlistments were as follows : A. Kingman, J. Palmer, E. Palmer, W. Donnel- son, J. D. Hawkins, George W. Rogers, Charles Clark, Wil- liam Carsley, iWilliam Allen and one other whose name is unknown. Tt was organized by the election of Henry ^lartin of Webster City, Captain ; W^illiam Church of Hiomer, First Lieutenant ; and a Mr. Jewett of Border Plains, Second Lieu- tenant. It was the wife of Lieutenant Church who acted so heroic a part in the defense of the cabin of ]\Ir. Thomas at Springfield against the attack of the Indians the spring before.
This company arrived upon the frontier about the last of February or first of March, and was divided into three squads; Captain ^lartin, Avitli the main squad, making his headquarters at the old fort at Spirit Lake ; Lieutenant ( 'liurcli with one squad .at Peterson, and Lieutenant Jewett with the remaining one at Emmet. This company had noth- ing to do with the force known as the Northern Border Bri- gade, which was not organized until some three vears later.
This force was ke]:)t on duty until about the first of July, when they were ordered ofi', but not disbanded. In the fall of 1858, upon the earnest representations of .a large majority of the inhabitants, thev were again ordered into service and kej^t on duty along the frontier until the following spring, when they were discharged. This w^as the last of any military operations until the l)reaking out of the war in ISOl.
CHAPTER XV.
THE SPIRIT LAKE CLAIJM CLUB THE FIRST POST- OFFICE THE FIRST MAIL ROUTE TORSON's
WONDERFUL FEAT POSTOFFICE AT OKOBOJI
THE FIRST FUNERAL THE FIRST WHITE CHILD
BORN IN THE EMIGRATION IN 1858 FARMING
THE RAVAGES OF THE BLACKBIRDS DEVICES FOB
SAVING CROPS THE WET SUMMER OF 1858
CROSSING THE STREAMS AND SLOUGHS DISCOUR- AGING CONDITIONS.
]\IO^G the incidents of the winter of 1857 and 1858 may be mentioned the formation of a claim club. It will be remembered that the government surveys were not vet made, and that claims were held under the laws of the state, giving each person the right to defend his posses- sion to three hundred and twenty .acres. Of course, it gave him no title to the land, but simply the right to defend hie possession against everything but an adverse title. Under the provisions of the Dickinson County Claim Club, each inhab- itant was entitled to two claims, one in his own name and the other in the name of some other party who was to settle upon .and improve it within one year from the time it was taken. According to the articles of association adopted, the club was to be under the command of a captain and two lieutenants, who were to call out the club when the assumed rights of any of the claimants were trespassed upon. The captain of the club at the time of its organization was William Carsley. The lieutenants were Charles F. Hill and J. D. Hawkins. The organization was short-lived and w.as never called into
service.
186 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
The first postoffice in the county, and, in fact, the first one in all northwestern Iowa, was established at Spirit Lake in February, 1858, by the ai)pointnient of R. U. Wheelock as postmaster. Previous to this time most of the settlers had their mail addressed t'ither to Fort Dodge or Sioux City and forwarded from there as opportunities presented themselves. There had been a semi-monthly mail I'oute from Mankato to Sioux C^ity, establislie<l as early as IS^O, l)ut it was not reg'u- larly carried until the winter of 1857. The contract was in the hands of .a ^Ir. J^abcock, of Kasota, ^Minnesota, for which he received the sum of $4,000 a year, besides a government subsidv of one section of liovernment land for each twentv miles of route in Minnesota.
A Mr. Pease, of Jackson (N)unty, ]\rinnesota, had taken the contract of Babcock as sulvcon tractor. He carried the north part himself, and sublet the south part from Spirit Lake to Sioux ( ^ity to Tareb Palmer, as has been before stated. Dur- ing the summer of 1858 this mail contract fell into the hands of two young men residing at Kasota, Minnesota, Orin ]Sra'Son and Cephas Bedow, who run it until 1802. In addition to carrying the mail, which they did ]>i"oniptly and faithfully, they did numlierless errands f(»r ]H'o])le along the route. There was no store between ]\rankato and Sioux City, consequently there was no end to the little ]uircliases they were reipiired to make, and upon their weekly arrival their vehicle had much the a]i])earance of ,a Yankee peddler's outfit — loaded down with articles "too numerous to mention."
When they commenced running th(^ route there was no trail whatever between here and Peterson, so on one trip they took alone; a lot of bushes and set them alonii' their r<nite at such distances a]iart that they could easily see from one t<» the other. In this way they soon had a trail they could follow without ditficultv. At one time while thev had the route there came
EARLY MAIL ROUTES 187
a heavy snow storm which rendered crossing the. wide prai- ries with a light rig like theirs impossible. Bedow started with the mail as usual and got as far as the Norwegian set- tlement at the head of the south branch of the Watonwan when he found it would be impossible to get through. Accordingly he engaged a !N"orwegian by the name of Torson to make the trip. A person who has never seen a ]^orwegian on his snow- shoes can have no idea of the rapidity with which they get over the road. All of the ravines and low places were tilled with snow^ which had been packed hard by the strong wind, mak- ing the finest kind of a track for the long, slender "skees."
On this occasion Torson made the trip from Spirit Lake to Sioux Citv and return in five davs, with the heavv mail sack strapped to his shoulders. The distance as then traveled was over one hundred and twenty miles, or for the entire trip near two iiundred and fifty miles, or an average of fifty miles a dav. Some davs he must h.ave made considerably more than this. He made a few more trips until the snow^ went down so they could put their teams on again.
R. IT. Wheelock continued in this position as postmaster at Spirit Lake until he left the county in 1861, when it was turned over to B. F. Parmenter, his l)rotlier-in-law, who per- formed the duties of the office until he left the county, a year or two later.
The Okoboji postofiice was established about a year after the one at Spirit Lake. G. IL Bush was the first postmaster, but as he left after a few months the office was transferred to' M. J. Smith, who, .after a few years, turned it over to J. W. O'Farrell. These were the only two postofRces in the county n\) to the time of the establishment of the Milford office about 1869.
The semi-monthly mail from Mankato to Sioux C-ity was kept up until 1862, although other mail facilities were pro-
188 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
vided before that time. In 1859 a weekly mail was put on between Algona and Spirit Lake. Jndge Asa C. Call, of Al- gona, had the contract, which he sublet to a Mr. Henderson, of the same place. Bob Henderson is well and kindly remem- bered bv all the old settlers of that day. These routes were both discontinued in 1862, and a weekly route from Spirit Lake to Fort Dodge substituted in their place. This route was carried by John Gilbert and may be referred to again.
It will be difficult to give the minor events of the period now under consideration in anything like the order in which they occurred, and, indeed, except for the fact that they are the first, the commencement, of anything like civilized life in this new country, would be considered decidedly common- place and not worth relating at all.
The first funeral services held in the county were at Oko- boji in the spring of 1858. Daniel Poorman, a blacksmith from ISTewton, had commenced the erection of a shop at Oko- boji, .and had it partly completed when one Sunday several of the boys were in bathing, he among the rest. He struck out some distance where he was seized with a cramp, and before they were aware of any trouble, he was past resuscitation. They recovered the body and did what they could to bring him to, but without success. The boys made a rude coffin out of such materials as could be found, and he was buried the next evening near the south end of the east shore of West Okoboji Lake.
Later on, during the same summer, a child of William Bark- man was drowned while playing on the dock to which a boat Avas fastened. This was on the isthmus, near the old red mill. Mr. Barkman lived on the isthmus at that time, and was help- ing Peters get the old mill into operation. It was a singular circumstance, and one that occasioned ,a considerable remark at the time, that for three or four vears after the first settle-
NEW ARRIVALS 189
ment of the county there were no deaths except by accident. But such was the case.
The first Avhite child ]>orn in the county was Rbbert 'Whee- lock Howe, son of Mr. and ^hs. O. C. Howe, born in Febru- ary, 1858. The first girl, and second child born in the county was Den,a Barkman, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Bark- man, born in the summer of 1858.
In the spring of 1858 there was a reasonable amount of emigi'ation. Many of those who had been here the previous year on prospecting tours, returned in the spring for perma- nent settlement, bringing their families with them. Other families also came on the representations of their friends. Prominent .amono- those who brought their families here that spring were J. D. Howe, R. U. Wheelock, B. F. Parmenter, J. S. Prescott, Henry Schuneman, Henry Barkman, James Ball, Leonid.as Congleton, Alvarado Kingman, William Bark- man, George Ring, Philip Risling and several others. M. J. Smith and his sister, Myra Smith, came that spring. These, with those who wintered here, constituted quite a company and was the commencement of the formation of society in northwestern Iowa.
The young ladies belonging to the several families at that time were as follows : Misses Sarah and M,ary Howe, Miss Belle Wheelock, Miss Myra Smith, Misses Mary and Emma Congleton, Miss Sarah McMillen and Miss Dema Adams. The number of young men here at the time was about thirty.
As has been before stated, the places claimed by Granger and his men remained vacant until this spring, when M. J. Smith made a claim on what is now known as Smith's Point, a couple of young men by the names of Dan Calwell and T. S. Rufi" on what is known as Dixon's Beach, and Jareb Palmer on upper Maple Grove, now known as Omaha Beach. Cabins were built on most of the claims, and some
190 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
farming was done this season. It seems like a wild statement now, but it is a fact nevertheless, that the greatest hindrance to successful farming .at that time was the ravages of the blackbirds. jSTo person who was not a witness to it can form any conception of the extent (if the destruc- tion possible to be wrought by a flock of liealthy blackbirds.
Corn was the principal croj), as no machinery for handling small grain had been introduced into the countrv. The time when the blackbirds were the most destructive was when the grain was just coming out of the ground, or about the last week in May and the first two weeks in June. They would come in such clouds as to almost darken the sun, and lighting down on the mellow fields where the corn was just coming up, would destroy a large area in an incredibly sliort space of time. Thev have been known to destroy for one man an en- tire fortv acre field in one dav. And one great difficultv about it was th.at there was no way of keeping them off. Scare them uj) in one place and they would immediately light down in another and keep right on with their work of destruction. Shooting among them had no appreciable effect, but it was lots of fun for the boys and gave them good practice. Fred Gil- bert, who has so long held the world's championship trophy, first acquired his wonderful skill ,as a wing shot by shooting l)lackbirds in liis father's cornfield with an old muzzle-loader.
Efiigies and scarecrows placed in the field had no effect whatever. Various schemes and devices were tried to circum- vent them, but with indifferent success. Some claimed that soaking the seed in copperas water or in tar so as to give it a bitter taste kept them off, but about the only remedy that had any apprecia])le effect, and one by which many farmers saved a portion of their crops, was to scatter corn on their fields every d.ay for the birds to pick ujd. By this means, and a continuous working of the corn until it was too large for
THE WET SUMMER OF 1859 191
tlieiii, a portion <»f the crop was saved for the time. But the farmer's |tribulations were not hy any means over when his corn was too hirge for them to pull or scratch up. Just when the kernel was forming, or when it was in "roasting ears," the hirils were verv destructive; nearly or cpiite as much so as in the sjiring. They would light on the ears, and strip- })ing down the silks and the husks, would destroy the grain on the ear in a verv short time. Manv a man who had neg- lected to watch his tield for a few days was surprised on going to it to find only .a few dried cobs. Some farmers saved a ])ortion of their crops by erecting several high platforms in their fields- and keeping their children on them yelling, screaming, ringing cowbells and drumming on tin pans until they were completely worn out. This plan had one advan- tage, if no other ; the children made all ,the noise they wanted to and nobody scolded them for it. The pest became so gen- eral that in the Eighth General Assembly Mr. Blackford of Algona, succeeded in getting a bill through providing for pay- ing a bounty on blackbirds, which remained in force about four years, Avhen it was repealed. The pest died out gradually as the country settled. As the area of tillable land w.as grad- ually increased, the birds scattered until their depredations Avere no longer noticeable.
The emigi-ation during the summer of 1858 was not quite up to the expectations of the settlers, but was all that could have been reasonably expected under the circumstances. The summer was a remarkably wet one. Continuous rains had swollen the streams so as to render them almost impassable. The larger streams were out of their banks for weeks at a time, while the smaller ones, which were ordin.arily nothing but little rivulets that one could step across, were now spread out to a width of several yards and swimming deep. As a luat- ter of course, such a season was very unfavorable to emigra-
192 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
tion and se^ttlement. To .a person having had no experience in matters of this kind and nnacqnainted with the varions devices and contrivances which were resorted to for crossing swollen streams and bottomless sloughs, it would seem to be an utter impossibility to make any progress whatever in the face of such formidable obstacles.
And yet the emigration of the summer of 1858 Avas made in the face of just such difficulties. Most of the travel was with ox teams, but very few horses being used at that tinte. Oxen were preferred on account of requiring so much less grain, and from the fact that all the care they needed was to be turned loose on the prairie at night, and they were .all ready to start again in the morning. It was customary to travel in small parties consisting of three or four or half a dozen teams, each team consisting of two to four yoke of oxen hitched to the proverbial covered wagon, or "prairie schooner," as it was then best known.
Each wagon was or should have been provided with a cable rope from seventy-five to one hundred feet long. In traveling, whenever a party reached a slough or marsh, or other place difficult to cross, it was customary to "double up" and help each other over. This was done by driving up as near to the slough as could Ijc done without miring down, and then one or more of the boys would take two or three yoke of cattle, or as many as were needed, and cable enough to reach to solid ground on the other side and cross over. The cables were then rigged from the team and wagon on the one side .to the teams that had crossed over, and as soon as everything was in readiness the signal was given to start, when by dint of much yelling and whipj)ing, and some swearing, which, under the mitigating circumstances, wasn't usually considered a verv serious offense, the other side was usuallv reached with- out any mishap other than a general bespattering of every-
CROSSING STREAMS IN HIGH WATER 193
thinff with mud and water. It was absolutely necessary after once starting in to keep going until solid ground was reached on the other side, since if by any unforeseen accident, a wagon should "mire down," it would keep settling and the black, sticky mud would settle in around the wheels until it would be impossible to extricate it in any other manner than by unloading and prying out, .and this in two or three feet of mud and water was no picnic. This process had to be repeated with yariations until eyery wagon was oyer.
In crossing streams that were too deep for foi'ding, the method of procedure was somewhat different. It was custom- ary to take the best wagon box in the outfit and caulk it, inak- ing it as nearly water tight as possible. Cattle are natural swimmers, and they seem to like it when they get used to it. They soon learn, upon arriving at a stream, to strike straight across ,and make a landing upon the further side without any delay whatever. Upon arriving at a stream too deep for ford- ing the wagon box that had been fitted up for that purpose would l)e taken off and transformed into a ferry boat. A cable would be rigged to each end of it, when a bov would mount one of the oxen that had been trained for that kind of work, and swim the stream, holding the rope in his hand. Arriving at the oj)posite side, he would make fast his rope, turn his cattle loose and proceed at once to business, which was to ferry the balance of the party across. The first load to go over would of course be men enough to manage the ferry and take care of the goods as they were sent over. The wagons would now l>e drawn up to the bank of the stream, where they would l>e unloaded and their contents placed .aboard the improvised ferry boat, and drawn over to the further side by the men who had previous- ly crossed over, and there unloaded again. The wagon box would then be drawn back and loaded and again sent over. 'This operation would be repeated .and re-repeated until the
194 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
contents <tf all the wagons Averc ov-ct. Then the Avagon boxes would be lashed down to the running gear and the wagons floated over. The cattle would then swim across, the balance of the party be ferried over and the labor of crossing the stream finished.
The next job was reloading and repacking the wagons and getting ready for another start. It was no nneommon experir ence for a ])arty, on arriving at the b,aid<s of a stream, to go into cam]) for the night and then spend rhe whoh' of the next day in ci'ossing over and getting reloaded, and camp the sec- ond night on the opposite side of the stream. The experience described above was the rule and not the exception in the sum- mer of 1858.
Bnt this was not all. The fiii.ancial crash of the previons year, which, by the way, was the most disastrous the country had ever known, was now being felt through the West with terrible severity. It became necessary to adopt a system of economy and self-denial, such as had not been experienced- for many years previous and has not been known since. There was absolutely uo money in the country. People residing in the older portions of the state well remember how utterly impossible it was at that time to raise money by any ordinary means. Xearly all of the banks in the country had failed, and .as there was then no provision for securing and redeem- ing the circulation, the bills became worthless. From the crash of 1857 to the breaking out of the war business was at a perfect standstill.
It was with the utmost diiliculty that the commonest neces- sities of life could be secured, and all luxuries, and much of what is now deemed necessary to support existence, Kad to be wholly dispensed with. Such necessaries as tea, coffee and sugar, and, indeed, groceries of all kinds, were indulged in bv but very few, and by them but sparingly. Corn, wheat or
"■ HARD TIMES " 195
barley was made to answer as .a substitute for coffee, while "prairie tea" was a very common beverage. This "j)rairie tea" was nothing more nor less than the leaves of the ''red- root," that grew so plentifully on the wild prairie, treated or drawn in the same manner as ordinary tea. It was an astring- ent, and was said to have much the same effect on the human system ,as the tea in ordinary use.
In the matter of clothing the same rigid economv had to be observed. Many were the men who wore moccasins made of rawhide, and pants made of grain bags, because they could get nothing better, — not worthless tramps, either, but men of education, energy and intelligence. It was no uncommon ex- perience for families to live for weeks with no breadstuffs, except such as they could grind in a coffee mill, which, to- gether with a little meat, milk, and game or fish, furnished their entire supply of provisions.
CHAPTER XVI.
DISAGREEMENTS AND JEALOUSIES THE TROOPS
ORDERED BACK TO THE LAKES JOHN CAMPBELL
AND HIS BAND OF INDIANS TWO RECOGNIZED AS
MEMBERS OF INKPADUTAh's BAND ARE ARREST- ED BUT MAKE THEIR ESCAPE CAMPBELL TRIED
AND HUNG FOR MURDER AT MANKATO "bAD
.hail" and his band INDIAN MEDICAL PRAC- TICE QUARREL OVER THE STEAINI MILL AT- TEMPT TO REPLEVIN THE LOGS A FIGHT PRE- VENTED BV AN UNLOOKED-FOR CIRCUMSTANCE
UMPASHOTA AND HIS BAND THE FIRST
SCHOOL A PRIVATE ONE THE FIRST TERM OF
THE DISTRICT COUP.T PRESCOTT DISPOSES OF
HIS TUSCULUM CLAIMS.
HEiS' we now look back and consider tlie obstacles tliat met the early settler at every stage of his progress at this time, the only wonder is that any exhibited the energy, hardihood and pluck necessary to overcome them and gain a foothold under such adverse conditions. As might be expected, jealousies and differences of opinion l>egan to mani- fest themselves as different and apparently conflicting inter- ests began to develop.
One question on which the sentiment was divided was the policy of applying for troops ,as a protection against the In- dians. One portion insisited that, from the exposed position of the settlement on the frontier, we were li-able at any mo- ment to be attacked by the Indians and swept out of exist- ence before any aid could be obtained or resistance made. On the other hand, it was .argued by those who were opposed to
JOHN CAMPBELL AND HIS BAND 197
applying for troops, that inasmuch as the large bodies of sav- ages had left the country, there was really no danger, and that the act of asking for troops for the purpose of protection had the appearance and effect of advertising to the world thaz there was danger and that this was dangerous ground to oc- cupy, thus preventing emigration. The consequence was petitions and remonstrances went in from both sides, each side representing the condition of affairs as viewed from its own standpoint.
It Xv'ill be remembered that the troops stationed here the previous winter had been called in in the spring, but not dis- charged, the organization having been kept intact, and the proposition was to have this body of troops ordered into ser- vice .again. This plan finally prevailed. The troops were ordered back here in the fall of 1858, and kept here until their discharge in the spring of 1859.
In the fall of 1858 the first election was held under the new constitution. In the Fourth Judicial District, Hon. A. W. Hubbard, of Sioux City, was elected District Judge and Hon. O. C. Howe, of Spirit Lake, District Attorney.
The winter of 1858 and 1859 was not marked by any event out of the ordinary other than has been related. The more timid suffered from continued apprehensions of Indian trou- bles. There apprehensions were somewhat intensified by the arrival at the lakes, some time in January, of a party of In- dians in charge of a half-breed by the name of John Camp- bell, who acted as chief and interpreter. These Indians claimed to be friendly, but a couple of trappers from the Des Moines River, by the names of John Dodson and Henry Chif- fen, who Avere trapping .at the lakes at the time, claimed to rec- ognize two of them ,as having belonged to Inkpadutah's band. They had been trapping along the Des Moines River for a year or two and had frequently come in contact with the In-
198 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
diaiis. It will bo reiiiciiihcrcil that ]\[r. ChiU'cii was one of the messengers who went from Springfield to Fort Ridgley for help after learning oT the massacre at the lakes .and he- fore the attack on Springfield. Dodson and ChifPen both claimed to identify two of ('am})beirs mt^n as l)elonging to Ink])adutairs l)an(b ami ])resiimably .as ]iarticipating in the massacre at the lakes.
Acting upon this information, Captain Martin determined to arrest them and send them to Des Moines, that their case might be investigated. A detail of soldiers was made for that jini'jtose, and the party started, arriving at Mahan's place on the Des ^[oines Kiver the first dav. During the evening the Indians were very im-easy and kept going in and out of doors, and ke])t their guards l)usy looking after them. Finally about nine o'clock in the evening they both went out at the same time, rhe guards accompanying them. When a short distance from the house they commenced talking to each other by the usual Indian grunts, when all at once they both dropped their blankets to the oronnd and spriniiinii- awav from their "uards, started on the run and were soon lost in the darkness. The surprised guards returned next day to head(]uarters, where tlwY were most unmercifullv nagged bv their comrades for allowing their ])risoners to escajie them so easily. The l)alance of the band Avere kei)f prisoners at Spirit Lake for nearly three weeks, when Captain Martin decided that he had cared for them long enough and the best thing to do would be to send them back to the agency at once. Accordingly he dispatched a squad of eight or ten men in charge of A. Kingman to escort them out of the state. Kingman and his men accom- panied them as far as they could and l>e sure of getting back to the fort the same day. Then they left them with orders to get back to the agency as soon as possible and not try to visit the lakes again. Upon arriving at ]\[arble Grove on his
KOVING HANDS OF INDIAN.S 19'J
return, King-m.an fell in with a sqnad of fi)nr or five soldiers and as many Indians who had Ijeen sent ont hy tho coniniand- ant at Fort Ridg'ley to hjok after Cani])l)ell and his party. Kino-man and his men followed a different route on their re- turn than they did on going out. This accounts for their not falling in with the other party earlier in the day. The ser- geant in charge at once enquired for news of ('ami)beirs party, when Kingman ]iroceeded to tell them the whole story. This the sergeant and his uicn accepted as true, hut the In- dians were suspicious, and one of them, a strapping hig fel- low who could talk English stepped before him and looking him square in the face, exclaimed: ''You lie I God damn jou. You have killed those Indians." Except for the pres- ence of the soldiers there might have been serious troidjle then and there, but they soon had the Indians cooled down and started at once for Fort Ridgley, and as was afterw^ards learned, overtook Campbell's party wdien about half w^ay there.
As before stated, Campbell was a half-breed, and at the breaking out of the ^War of the Rebellion, in company with several half-breeds and Indians, enlisted and went south, but were soon after discharged for disability. It ^x-'as a curious fact that came to the surface during the war that the Indians and half-breeds enlisted from Minnesota could not withstand the hardships and vicissitudes ol camp life at all in compari- s^on Avith the volunteers. After his discharge, Campbell re- turned to Minnesota, where he lived a kind of roving life along the Minnesota River in the vicinity of "^lankato and 'New Ulm. Later on he was accused of the murder of the Jewett familv, on Elm Creek in ^Minnesota. He was taken to Man- kato, tried, found guilty and hanged.
Another party of Indians visited the lakes that winter that mav as well be noticed here as anvwhere, inasmuch as the
200 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
date of their coming cannot be definitely determined, although the incident is vouched for by several credible witnesses. They were in charge of a chief by the name of ''Bad Hail," a very old man. They came down from the ^Northwest, and went into camp in the bend of the Little, Sioux west of Mil- ford, in Avhat was then known as the Risling Grove. The first seen of them, two of their number came to the settle- ment begging for provisions and stated that one of the squaws was very sick. Captain Martin immediately dispatched a squad of troops to the place with orders to bring the Indians to headquarters at once. This order was obeyed. Upon their arrival at the fort the squaw proved ^o be really quite sick, whereupon the medicine man of the party proceeded to treat the case in accordance with the most approved methods of Indian practice. They laid her down .at full length upon the floor and then proceeded to deposit gunpowder in suuill quan- tities at different places in a circle entirely around her. Then they formed in Indian file and commenced marching around her, chanting their monotonous ''Hi Yi, Hi Yi," and every little while touching off one of the deposits of the powder. These incantations were kept up for some time, and the curious thing about the whole matter was that the squaw was soon visibly better and by the next morning was able to resume the journey. The captain sent a squad of men to escort them beyond the state line, giving them strict orders to go back to the agency as soon as possible and stay there. The discouraging curcumstances imder which the settlers labored and the difficulties they encountered were much inten- sified by the Ijitter quarrel which al)0ut this time broke out among the leading men of the settlement. A steam mill had been purchased the previous year by Howe, Wheelock and Parmenter ,and shipped to Iowa Citv, which was at that time the terminus of the railroad. There was no advance payment
QUARRELS AND DISSENSIONS 201
made, but one was due before it coubl be uioved from Iowa City. Tbe financial panic coming on at the time it did, the purchasers found themselves without the money necessary to meet the payment tliey had promised, or even to pay the freight. In this emergency they turned the contract over to Prescott, who paid the freight and assumed the entire obliga- tion for the mill. At the same time he entered into a kind of written agreement with Howe and 'Wheelock whereby they were to retain a kind of partnership in running the mill. Th.3 language of this agreement was somewh.at vague, and after- ward gave rise to no end of trouble. In the spring of 1858 this mill was lying in the Rock Island depot at Iowa City. The distance to Spirit Lake by the then traveled route was but little short of three hundred miles. For the last two hun- dred miles of the route the streams were not bridged, the low pr.airie was under water, the streams were bank full and some of them overflowing. The boiler weighed about four tons ; the balance of the machine was in such shape that it could be (distributed in such a way as not to overload the wagons. An old government wagon was procured for hauling the boiler. Something like twenty yoke of oxen were required to haul the entire outfit. The tr.ain was placed in charge of Mr. iWhee- loek. The time occupied in bringing it through was something over six weeks, which, considering the obstacles and drawbacks in the way, was a remarkably quick trip.
The mill w^as located in the grove south of the Okoboji bridge. It was not got into running order until some time in the winter following. Through some misunderstanding or misconstruction of the terms of the contract, a bitter quarrel arose between Doctor Prescott on one side and Howe, Wliee- lock and Parmenter on the other in regard to the control of the mill. The merits and demerits of that controversy are too voluminous and are not of sufficient importance to be given
202 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
in detail. The contest was a long and bitter one, and before it was ended most of the people in the county bad been drawn into taking' sides with one party or the other.
While it Would be l)oth impossible and undesirable to give a detailed account of the events entering^ ijito this unfortunate controversy, one or two incidents will give some insight into the nature and intensity of it. Prescott, in addition to the Tusculum claims, endeavored to hold the Okoboji Grove and the Gardner place. Tlie Okoboji Grove he bad staked off as a town site and was endeavoring to hold it as such under the town site law, although he didn't comply with its provisions very well. The Gardner place he was trying to hold under the preemption law. The mill was located in the northeast part of the Okoboji Grove. A log boarding house about sixteen by thirty feet in size had been built near it, also a blacksmith shop. During the early part of the winter Prescott's men had cut and hauled into the yard wTiere the mill was then being set up, about twelve hundred sawlogs, with the inten- tion of cutting them into lumber as soon as the mill could be started. Howe and iWheelock and their party had thrown all the obstacles they could in the way of starting the mill, they claiming that Prescott was going ahead in violation of their contract.
Among other things they contended he was not complying with the law in relation to his town site claim, and, therefore, that it could be taken by any one who saw fit to file a contest on it. Consequently John Gilbert filed a claim on it under the provisions of the preemption law, and by virtue of so doing claimed ownership of the sawlogs that had been cut and hauled together, and commenced proceedings in the dis- trict court to take them out of Prescott's hands by a writ of replevin. C. F. Hill, the sheriff, refused to serve the writ, but they made a short job of removing him by requiring addi-
THE LOG ROLLING 203
tional bonds and then refusing to accept any he could obtain, and appointing another. Matters came to a crisis on the twenty-sec- ond of February, 1859, when the newly appointed sheriff, with a posse of eight or '^en men with six or eight teams, came to take possession of the logs and deliver them to Mr. Gill^ert, whose plan was to remove a portion of the best ones to Spirit Lake to be used in making shingle.
In the meantime Pr^scott's men had kept pretty well posted on what was going on, and they made up their minds the logs should not go without a fight. Prescott himself w.as awav. He went East some time in December, .and his affairs were left in charge of G. H. Bush. Tlie boys made it in their way to be in the millyard when they knew the sheriff was coming. The sheriff's party drove into tlie yard, where he read his writ to Mr. Bush .and gave him a copy. They then com- menced the operation of loading the logs, but when one was fairly loaded Prescott's men would grab it and roll it off on the other side. These proceedings were kept up for some lit- tle time, the sheriff's men loading a log when Prescott's men would tip it over, some of the time sled and all. In the mean- time the conversation between the two parties was more re- markable for strength than for its beauty. In other words, the air was blue with profanity. But there weren't any logs taken away that day.
After two or three hours' wrangling, the sheriff and his party left, and in the evening came back with .a warrant for the arrest of all those who had been engaged in resisting the service of the writ of replevin. This time he was accompanied by a small squad of soldiers, Captain Martin with his company of state troops being stationed at Spirit Lake at this time. The excitement now ran higher than ever. A majority were in favor of resisting, and it is more than probable tliat such would have been the outcome except for a very unexpected
204 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
occurrence. Just as the excitement was at its height and the prospect seemed good for a general scrimmage, a messenger out of breath came running with all his might, stating that Indians were in the grove at the head of kSpirit Lake.
The soldiers started for headquarters at -.once and a major- ity of the sheriff's posse started for home, regardless of pris- oners or sawlogs. The sheriff insisted on taking with hi'm two or three of the leaders and the balance were let off on their promise to appear and answer at the proper time, which they did. As soon as possible, Bush, Mr. Prescott's manager, consulted a lawyer. Judge Meservey of Fort Dodge, .and by his advice obtained a counter replevin, which, together with an injunction obtained later on, put a stop to further proceed- ings, and the matter quietly died down. Gilbert never made any further attempt to get possession.
In the meantime Howe .and 'Wheelock were determined the mill should not run without their claims to a part ownership were recognized, consequently when the mill was about ready to be started up they went down with quite a party of men and took away the valves from the pump .and some of the ininor pieces of machinery, tliinking the mill could not be started without sending to the works where it was made and getting duplicaltes of the parts taken. But Mr. Mastellar, Prescott's engineer, being a very ingenious m.an, went to work and made new valves and supplied the missing parts. Prescott now oljtained an injunction against all of the parties con- cerned, restraining them from interfering with his work and then started wp the mill. In a few days, however, Howe and Wheelock with their men came down again and this time they took parts of the machinery that could not be replaced without sending to the works where the mill was made.
Prescott on his return from the East obtained the requisite papers for .arresting the other parties for violating the injunc-
CHIEF UMPASHOTA 205
tion, lie was accompanied by an officer and a posse of men from Webster County, but upon arriving here his men were missing, having skipped to Minnesota to avoid arrest. It seems that one of Captain Martin's men was in Fort Dodge at the time, and on learning what was up rode all night to get ahead of Prescott's party and warn the men. They remained in camp just over the state line for .a few days, when that becoming irk- some they boldly came back to town, submitted to an arrest and then w^ent before Judge Congleton, who was in sympathy with them, and procured a v/rit of habeas corpus and were discharged. The first term of the district court for this county, which is mentioned in .another place, coming on soon after this, the injunction was dissolved.
This was but one of the many episodes of this unfortunate quarrel, which w^as kept up with more or less bitterness until both sides were practically exhausted, but it will be neither interesting nor profitable to follow the details of it further. Taking a retrospective view of the matter it must be admitted that the blame should be about evenly divided.
It is now necessary to go back to where we left the inhabi- tants in a state of wild excitement over the appearance of a party of Indians in the grove at the head of Spirit Lake.
As soon as possible after the alarm was given, Captain Mar- tin dispatched a small force to the head of the lake to investigate the Indian scare. Upon their arrival there they found old Chief ITnipashota with his family and a few followers in camp, who upon seeing the troops were worse scared then they were. The soldiers took the Indians to headquarters as prisoners, where Captain Martin found himself in about the same predica- ment as the man who drew the white elephant in the lottery. He couldn't keep him, he couldn't sell him, he couldn't give him awav, he hated to kill him and what to do with him he didn't know. In this case Ca])tain Martin finally decided to send his
206 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
prisoners to Fort Dodge and turn tliem over to the anthorities there.
In pursuance of this plan he dispatched Lieutenant Church with ,a small detachment of men to carry it out. Church really understood the situation better than Martin himself, and knew that upon arriving at Fort Dodge he would be no better off than he was then ; consequently, ujjon reaching Gillett's Grove he released the Indians upon their promise to stay away from the lakes in the future. This was without duubt the old chief's last visit to Spirit Lake.-
Xo jjublic schools had been established in the county up to this time, and were not until sometime Later. A private school was established by Doctor Prescott soon after the arrival of his family in the fall of 18.58. Prescott had erected a com- paratively convenient and comfortable house during the sum- mer, one room of which w.as set aside for a schoolroom. The teacher employed was Miss Amanda L. Smith, Pres- cott's family, with a iew outsiders, furnishing the pupils. The expense of this arrangement was borne by Doctor Prescott. It was kept up about a year and a half, or until the spring of 1860. A private school had also been started at Spirit Lake about the same time with Miss Mary Howe as teacher.
The first public school in the county was taught at Okoboji during the winter of 1862 and 1863, Miss Myra Smith, teacher, and will be noticed further.
The first term of the diaitrict court in the countv was held at Spirit Lake in June, 1850. Judge Hubbard jDresided, with O. C. Howe, district attorney ; Jareb Palmer, clerk of the dis- trict court, and Alfred Arthur, sheriff". .Vttorneys in attend- ance were B. F. Parmenter, Dickinson County; C. C. Smelt- zer. Clay County, and Patt Robb, Woodluirv County.
FIRST TERM OF THE DISTRICT COURT 207
jSTearly, if not quite all, of the business of this term grew out of the quarrel heretofore mentioned between Prescott on one side, and Howe, iWheelock and Parmenter on the other. If this quarrel was not the means of breaking up the enterprise of establishing the institution at Tusculum bv Doctor Prescott, it certainly hurried up the event, for it demonstrated the fact that it would be utterly impossible for him to hold or maintain his claim to the land he had selected for that purpose, as there was no law under which he could do it. His enemies questioned his honesty and sincerity of motive and claimed that he was hold- ing, or rather endeavoring to hold, all of these choice places simply as ,a matter of speculation ; that he had no expectation of establishing an institution of learning hero, such as he had been describing, and that all of his talk in that direction was cheap Iduft" just for the purpose of keeping other people from claimino- the land.
Add to this the fact that his friends were getting heartilv sick and tired of being dragged into quarrels, in which they liad no individual concern. Some of the more prominent of these became so thoroughly disgusted with the way things were being managed that they unceremoniously pulled up and left. Among this number were C. F. Hill and G. H. Bush, both of whom had ably and earnestly seconded Doctor Prescott's efforts to gain a foothold, but they could see nothing but contention ahead with no chance for advantage to themselves. Many others felt the same w^ay. Prescott, seeing that he had lost the support, sympathy and confidence of a majority of the in- habitants, decided to abandon the whole project, so far as trying to found the institution was concerned, and sold off his Tus- culum claims for what lie could g,e\, which was but a nominal sum and a mere fraction of what they cost him.
Looking ,at the project in the light of subsequent events, it is hardly possible that it could have succeeded even wdthout
208 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
those early troubles. The claims to the land were bought by Alfred Arthur and disposed of by him to parties who settled upon them at once. These parties were H. D. Arthur, John Francis, John P. Gilbert, Crosby Warner, Peter T^adu and Charles Carpenter, who came from Wisconsin, part of them in 1859 and the balance in 18G0. Prescott still retained his claim to Okoboji Grove.
CHAPTER XVII.
EMIGRATIOX IX 1859 GOVERXMEXT SURVEYS
COMPLETED THE HOMESTEAD LAW THE FIRST
PHYSICIAN THE FIRST MARRIAGE CEREMOXY
THE M. E. CHURCH REV. CORXELIUS MCLEAX"
HIS SUCCESSORS THE CIRCUIT THE FIRST SIXG-
IXG SCHOOL SPECIAL ELECTION FOR DISPOSING
OF THE SWAMP LAND .V BRIEF REVIEW OF THE
SWAMP LAND QUESTION^ BUILDIX^G THE COURT- HOUSE AND TWO BRIDGES SUBSEQUENT BRIDGES
OX^ THE SAME SITES THE BRICK FOR THE OLD
COURTHOUSE EARLY" LIME KILNS THE COURT- HOUSE NOT COMPLETED WHEN TAKEN POSSESSION BY TROOPS THE SUPERVISORS SETTLE WITH CON- TRACTORS.
X THE SPRING of 1859, a company, consisting of A. D. Arthur, John P. Gilbert and Spencer Humphrey, erected a shingle mill at Spirit Lake. It was kept there about a year and a half, when it was removed to some other localitv.
The government surveys were completed in 1859, and the settlers were enabled to establish the boundaries to their claims, and take the necessary steps toward eventually secur- ing: the title. The first government survev was made in 1857 by a surveyor from Van Buren County by the name of Wilkins, but was rejected by the government inspector as defective, when a second survey was made by C. L. Estes, which was com- menced in 1858 and finished in 1859. In the light of subse- quent developments it is more than probable that the first sur-
210 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
vey was the more accurate of the two. It certainly was made with far more care than the second.
It will be remembered as a historical fact tha/t Congress in the spring of 1860 passed the first bill granting homesteads to actual settlers, but that the bill was" vetoed by President Buchanan. This created much disappointment, and not a little indignation, among the frontier settlers, as every one then imagined that the passage of the homestead law would give a new impetus to emigration and impart new life and ener2:v to the frontier settlements. The bill was ae'ain intro- duced in the succeeding session of Congress and passed, and was ajiproved by President Lincoln, and became the law of the land in 1862. '^Miatever stimulating effect this law might have had it passed at an earlier date, it was of but little ad- vantage now.
At this time the Civil War had assumed such gigantic pro- portions th.at every man that could be sj)ared was required by the army. The soldier and the pioneer are both made of the same material, and that element all through the country which usually strikes for the frontier for change, adventure or excite- ment, went into the army. These facts will be noticed more in detail in their proper place.
The first physician in this county was Dr. James Ball, from Xewton, Jasper County, who settled here in 1858, and remained here until after the breaking out of the war, when he went into government employ as a surgeon, first at Sioux City, and from there he was transferred to some of the up- river posts.
The first marriage solemnized in Dickinson C^^untv was in the spring of 1859, the contracting parties being William E. Root and Addie Ring, both of Okoboji. Doctor Prescott per- formed the ceremony. The second was in the summei'of 1860, at the residence of W. B. Brown, when Abel Keene of Mankato
THE FIRST CHUKCH 211
was married to Miss Carrie Doughty of Center Grove, R. King- man, Esq., officiating.
The first regularly established religious services in north- western Iowa were under the auspices of the Methodist Epis- copal Church, which established a circuit here in 1859. This circuit was put in charge of Rev. Cornelius McLean with head- quarters at Okoboji. While there had been no regular appoint- ments up to that time, services had been held by Doctor Pres- cott and such other ministers as had happened to be traveling through the country. Among the first settlers of those who professed any particular religious belief, a decided majority were Congregationalists, but of those who came later more were Methodists.. It was through the efforts of Doctor Pres- cott that the Methodist Conference of 1859 decided to send a minister to the frontier. This circuit at that time comprised Emmet, Dickinson, Clay and O'Brien Counties. Services were held once in three weeks as follows : In Emmet County, at Estherville in the morning, .and at Emmet in the afternoon; in Dickinson County the next Sunday, at Spirit Lake in the morning, and at Okoboji in the afternoon; and on the Sunday following that at Peterson in the morning, and at Waterman, in O'Brien Countv, in the afternoon. This round had to be made every three weeks,
Mr. McLean was among the best educated and most talented men sent into this county by the Methodist Church, and far superior to many who were afterwards sent in that early day. Up to 1876 the ministers who were sent to this circuit by the ]\rethodist Episcopal Church since Mr. McLean's time, were as follows.: J. A. Van Andor, J. IW. Jones, W. Hyde, Seymour Snyder, W. A. Richards, W. iW, Mallory, G.' Brown, William Preston and J. E. Cohenone, While preachers of other denom- inations occasionally held services in the county, there was no other society organized than the Methodists until 1870, when
212 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
,a society was organized by the Congregationalists which will be noticed in its proper place.
In Febrnary of 1859 the qnestion uf disposing of the swamp lands for pnl)lic improvements was snbmitted to a vote of the electors and carried almost nnanimonsly. « It wonld have been far better for tlie county had the project been defeated. Those residing in the central .and southern portions of the county were at first inclined to oppose the scheme, but after a little campaigning they ascertained that they would probably be in the minority any way and so concluded that they had had quar- reling and trouble enough where there was nothing to be gained by it, and stayed away from the polls altogether. Consequently the vote on the question was very light and .all one way.
The parties to the contract as originally made were Hon. Leonidas Congleton, county judge, on the part of the county, and J. D. Howe, A. D. Arthur and B. F. Parmenter, as con- tractors. According to the terms of that agreement the con- tractors were to take the swamp lands of the county (which, by the way, were not then selected), be the same more or less, and pay all of the exj^enses for selecting them, and in consid- eration for them erect a courthouse U])on a site, and according to plans and specifications furnished by the county; and three bridges, one across East Okoboji Lake east of the town of Spirit Lake, one across the straits between East .and West Okoboji Lakes, and one across the Little Sioux. The original con- tractors disposed of their interest in the contract to J. S. Pres- cott and Henry Barkman, receiving as a consideration there- for several thousand acres of the swamp land.
At the present time this swamp land question is not under- stood by most people, and as it has occupied so prominent a place in our county history a short explanation and review of the question is in order here. It is a historical fact that the states along the Mississippi River had long been importuning
THE SWAMP LANDS 213
Congress for the passage of a law making an appropriation for the purpose of reclaiming the swamp and overflowed lands along that river and its tributaries, and urging various reasons for the necessity of such action. This Congress persistently re- fused to do. Finally, however, a law was passed turning the whole matter over to the states in which these lands were located, and granting the swamp and overflowed lands to them, and making it incumbent on them to have the lands reclaimed as far as possible.
The state of Iowa, instead of doing anything towards re- claiming these lands, granted them in turn to the several coun- ties in which they were situated upon the same terms she re- ceived them from the general government, at the same time authorizing the county authorities to apply the proceeds aris- ing from the sale of anv such lands as could not be drained or otherwise reclaimed by ordinary methods, to be used for the piTrposes of education or applied to the building of county buildings and roads and bridges. There is no question that Congress in passing such an act never intended it to apply to the uplands, or the small sloughs and marshes which are com- mon in this section of the country, and it is only by a forced construction of the law that any of these northwestern coun- ties secured a title to any swamp land whatever.
Again, the laws of the state and the general government were somewhat conflicting as to the manner of making the se- lections and obtaining the title to the lands. All of the laws relating to the subject were carelessly drawn and were differ- ently construed by the officers whose duty it was to e:^eeute them and ' carry their provisions into effect. The commis- sioners for selecting the swamp lands in this county were Andy Hood and B. F. Parmenter, and the amount selected and returned by them aggregated nearly sixty thousand acres. This amount was ridiculously large and was branded as fraud-
21-t DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
iilent at once. Had a smaller .amdiiut l)een selected and re- turned, it is possible the title woidd have been eonhrmed M'ithont delay. Had matters remained as they were in the good old days of Buchanan's administration, doubtless the entire selection would have been approved .and no questions asked, but a change of administration occurring about the time of the selection, the entire business of the Interior De- lia rtnient received an overhauling, the swamp land business among the rest, and the consequence was a halt was ordered and the burden of proof thrown upon the claimants of the lands to show that they were in truth swamp and overflowed lands as contemplated In- the act granting them. With this explauation the reader will be better able to understand the swamp land question and the difficulties growing out of it.
The contractors, acting on the supposition that the title to the land would be perfected in the same manner that it had been done in the older counties, obtained quit-claim deeds from the county and then sold it for the purpose of raising means to go on with their improvements, giving w^arranty deeds for the same. It was not until about a year and a half that they began to have any fears that their title would not be good. As soon as it became evident that the title to the swamp land was likely to fail, Mr. Barkman set to work to com- promise and settle with -those to whom he had sold this land, and in many cases succeeded in doing so, but Prescott had carried it on on so large a scale that any attempt to compro- mise was hopeless. In most instances he had sold the land in large quantities to parties who understood the question of the title as well as he did himself, and at prices varying from twenty-five to fifty cents per acre, thus proving conclusively that they were perfectly .aware of the defect in the title.
As before stated, the amount selected in this county and re- turned as swamp land aggregated nearly sixty thousand acres.
A VEXED QUESTION 215
These were quit-claimed by the county to the contractors and in turn sold by them for a mere nominal sum, they giving war- ranty deeds therefor. Many of tKese lands have changed hands repeatedly, and the matters growing out of these bogus titles and conflicting claims have been a source of great annoyance to the county authorities since that time. The amount of land that was finally certified to the county was something over three thousand acres. This had been quit-claimed with the rest to the original contractors, but afterwards it was under- stood that the manner in which the question was submitted to the vote of the electors and the transfer made was not strictly in accordance with the provisions of the statute. Suit was brought in equity on behalf of the county against the original contractors and their assignees for the abrogation of the con- tract.
Messrs. Wilson and Dye, a law firm in Sioux City, were re- tained by the county authorities to manage this suit on behalf of the county. The contractors made no defense. In fact, they had all left the county except Mr. Barkman, and he was interested in having the old transfers set aside, consequently the conveyances were declared void.
In the meantime another contract had been entered into by the county authorities with Mr. Barkman alone by which he was to receive the entire amount of the swamp land certified to the county; hence his interest in having the old deeds can- celed. It was the understanding when .Wilson and Dye were employed to bring this suit, that it was to be without expense to the county, or rather, that as the lands were really bar- gained away at that time that those interested in getting the old transfers canceled should stand the expense of the suit. Be this as it may, no sooner was the decree rendered abrogat- ing the old contract than Wilson and Dye filed their claim against the county for attorney fees to the amount of four
216 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
thousand dollars. They emphatically denied ever having agreed to accept anybody else as responsible for the i3ay_ for their services but the county, and there was no evidence to the contrary. The minutes showed that they had been regularly employed, and there was no way out of it, but to settle. The amount was finally compromised and they were allowed twenty-five hundred dollars.
Mr. Barkman had been a heavy loser in the original con- tract, and the county now entered into a new agreement with him whereby they transferred to him all of the lan-d they had received or might receive in the future. Taking all things into consideration this whole swamp land question and the manner in which it w,as managed has been a most intol- erable nuisance. In the first place, the expense to the county has been heavy. They made repeated endeavors to get the question settled, each of which was attended with great ex- pense, but without success, the general government steadily refusing to take .any action whatever upon the question, either to approve or reject the selection, and it was not until after a delay of nearly twenty years that the matter was closed up by the county getting the amount heretofore mentioned.
On the part of the contractors the matter w.as still worse. They had sold the lands in good faith and given warranty deeds for them. It is true they had sold them cheaply. The amount they realized from the proceeds was small and they could ill .afford to subject themselves to the outlay necessary for the perfection of the title. They put forth every effort to have the matter disposed of, keeping agents in Washing- ton at a heavy expense, but finally were obliged to give it up as a hopeless job.
j^or are these the only ones who have been injuriously affected by this vexed question. Many of these defective titles were finally purchased by parties who thought they sav*'
THK COUUTIIOUSK AND UKIUGKS
17
an opportunity to secure homes for themselves n])on uncom- monly easy terms. These Avere mostly poor men and they ex- })ende(l what little property they had in tradini>' for these hogus titles, and then removing from their eastern homes came here with tlie intention of settling, when they found the title to their land not worth the paper it was written upon.
These matters have .also heen a source of great vexation to our county officers. The difficulty of nudging al)stracts and giving satisfactory information in regard to lands affected hy these conflicting claims has Ijeen great indeesl. Kven at this time our county officers .are rejieatedly importuned hy ])artics holding these defective titles, wanting to know the reason why iheir titles are not good and will he satisfied with nothing less than full exi)lanation of the whole matter.
In giving this review of the swamp land qurvstion, the de- tails of tlie huildinii' <'f the court"hon-<' ;ind bridges have l)e<'n overlooked. Of the work to he done hv the contractors, the
From an Oil Painting by Mrs. A. L. Buckland. OKOBOJI BRIDGE IN 1874.
218
DICKINSON COUNTY
IOWA
two bridges across the Lake were finished in 1800. The one at Spirit Lake, east of towni, was three hundred feet long, and the one at Okoboji was two hundred and ten feet long. They w^ere built on bents, or trestles, set sixteen feet apart, Avitli a main span over the principal channel thii'ty feet in the clear. This sj)an was strongly trussed with heavy braces, king-j)osts and needle beams. The bridge at Spirit Lake was built by the contractors themselves, employing and paying their help by the day. Harvey Abbott, a brother-in-law of Howe and Wheelock, furnished the plan and acted as foreman. The bridge at Okoboji was luiilt by John Loomis, he having a con- tracted for it from Howe and Arthur before the main contract Avas turned over to Barkman and Prescott.
Since they were first erected these bridges have been rebuilt four times. The first time was in 1874 or 1875. At this time
OKOBOJI BRIDGE AND GRADE LOOKING NORTH.
BRIDGES 219
the trestles were all taken out and at each side of the main channel were erected log cribs and these cribs filled with rock to hold them to their places. Grades were put in in lieu of the portions of the bridge taken out. These bridges were built bv contract and were to be at least four feet above the water level. After being completed the distance was carefully measured and it was found to be Tour feet and two inches to the top of the i^lanking, and yet, such was the rise of the lakes that spring that on the first of July the planking was under water. As the bridges rested on piers it was an easy matter to raise them and block them at any point desired. They were strongly built .and would have answered all purposes for many years, but for the fact that the question of the naviga- tion of the lakes began to be agitated about this time and the necessity for swing bridges discussed.
^[r. L. W. Waugh, then a member of the Board of Super- visors, claimed that a light, strong lu'idge could be so constructed that it could be raised by tackle and blocks to an upright posi- tion, so that boats might j^ass through. His scheme looked so plausible that the board adopted it and he went to work and built new bridges on the old piers, erected derricks and procured ropes and pulleys .and rigged everything to his. satisfaction. But his plan was defective. It didn't work. He raised the bridges once or twice, but it took so much time and required so much power' that the attempt to raise them was abandoned. The bridges were used in the shape they were until about 1883, when they were taken out and swing bridges erected in- stead. The first swing bridges were set on piles, but when they were rebuilt in the winter of 1897 .and 1898, the piles were taken out and solid stone piers laid in cement were sub- stituted in their place.
At the time the bridges were first Imilt, the sand bars reach- ing to them from tlie further side were well out of water and
220
DICKINSON COUNTY
IOWA
from three to four rods wide. They were covered with vege- tation, the one at the south end of the Okoboji bridge being covered with a growth of trees and bushes, some of which showed evidences of being forty or fifty years old. The idea that the .approaches over those sand Bars ^ would eventually have to be graded up at a heavy expense to the county was not then thought of. But the heavy rains of the next two decades raised the water to such a height that it became necessary to build .a grade four or five feet high over the sand bars at the end of each bridge. At the Okoboji bridge the sides of the embankment were riprapped with l)oulders floated in froni along the lake shore on flat boats. This work was dom^ ]nece- meal, but was finally finished in 1882.
I'he brick for the courthouse were burned on the isthmus in the fall of 1859 bv William Barkman, .a brother of Henrv Barkman, the contractor. Mr. Barkman had formerly helped
STEAMER PASSING THE OKOBOJI BRIDGE.
BRICKMAKING 221
Peters on the old uiill. While dig-ging- the race across the isthmus, the peculiar adhesive quality of the clay .attracted his attention. He was a brickmaker bv trade, and he soon became convinced that the material they were working in was the best brick clay he liad ever seen.
After the contract for the courthouse was let he took the jiib of furnishing the l)rick. He l)urned two kilns. They were located on the ground afterward occupied by the Orleans Hotel. His experiment was a complete success. He succeeded in producing a brick that has never been equalled in quality iiy any other, either shipped in or produced here. They were hard as flint and al)S()lutely fireproof.
Since that time other ])artios have tried their hand at mak- ing l)rick on the same groun(l, l)ut none succeeded in produc- ing an article that at ;il] compared with those made Ijy ^Er. Barkman for the old courthouse. What the reason is, or what the secret of Mr. Barkman's success Avas is not known. Wlieth^^r or not the industry can be revived on the old ground and made remunerative remains to be demonstrated.
The lime was burned from limestone boulders i)icked up on ihe bank of the lakes an.d boated to the kiln on ilatboats.
Prescott being one of the contractors furnished the lumber from liis mill in Okol)oji Gro^-e. The luml)er was principally oak. The buildino- was also covered with o.ak shingles sawed in the Okoboji Grov(\ What little jdne hnnber was used had to be liauled across the country l)y teams from Mankato, hav- ing; l)een previously brought up the Minnesota River from St. Paul on flatlioats.
The foundation for the courthouse w.as laid in 1850, and the walls ])ut uj) and the roof ])ut on in ISOO. Harvey Ab- l)0tt furnished the plan and superintended the car- penter work, while William Lamont, one of the party
222 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
wlio orieinallv came iii) Avitli Wheelock and Parmeiiter, did tli€ mason work. The honse was in this i)artly finished condition Avhen it was taken possession of for military headqnarters in August, 1862, and used as barracks and head- quarters until 1865. The details connecte'd.witli its occupancy as such will be given in another place. Of course, the build- ing was subject to very hard usage during the time it was occupied as a military post, and it was impossible for the con- tractors to complete their contract while thus occupied.
During that time the fact became apparent that the title to the swamp land, which had been voted by the county as a consideration for public improvements, would prove worth- less, thus entailing great loss to the contractors. In consider- ation of this state of aifairs, the Board of Supervisors passed a vote releasing the contractors from any liability for the non-completion of the work and authorized the cancellation of the agreement under which the work had been carried forward thus far.
This action of the board was sharply criticised. It w^as considered on the one hand that the contractors understood upon the start what they were going into, that they had no reason to expect that all of the selections would be approved, and that had they been, the value of the land would have been very much in excess of a reasonable compensation for the amount of work contemplated in the contract, far more than the loss to the contractors would be if the work was completed and then the title to the land should fail. It was like a ticket in a letter}'. If they succeeded in getting the title perfected, they had a "big thing," but on the contrary, if they failed, they would lose the amount expended in making the improve- ments. They, therefore, advocated the policy of holding the contractors to the strict letter of their agreement.
On the other hand, it was urged by the contractors that their losses had alreadv been verv heavv, the cost of doing that
THE COURTHOUSE COMPLETED 223
kind of work being many times as great as it would be now. They contended that they had spent mo-re than the entire value of the land which would probably be certified to them in endeavoring to get the swamj) land question settled, and that it was as much to the interest of the countv as themselves to have the matter closed up and that they had already lost more than the entire value of the w^ork they had done. This was undoubtedly true, and the board took the responsibility of cancelling the contract and releasing the contractors and their sureties upon their turning over to them the bridges and courthouse in the condition tliev then were.
After it was vacated by the United States troops, and at the time it was turned over to the county in 1865, it was totally unfit for use as a public building, and in.asmuch as the contractors had been released from any further work upon it, it became necessary for the county authorities to make some provisions for a county building. So it was finally decided to go on and complete the courthouse according to the original plan. This was accordingly done. County warrants were so depreciated at that time that tEey were worth but about twenty cents on the dollar, consequently this work proved expensive to the county. The work was done in detached por- tions, but was finally completed in 1868.
The ofiices in the lower story w^ere occupied by the county officers in their several capacities. An arrangement had been made with the officers of the schof^l district whereby the dis- trict bought seats and seated the court room in consideration of having it to use for school purposes, and as there was but two terms of court a year, they did not conflict much. The old courthouse was used for almost every imaginable purpose. Revival meetings, dances, traveling shows, political gatherings, in short, anything that would bring a crowd met there on equal terms. These conditions continued to the time of the l^urning of the courthouse in February, 1872.
CHAPTER XVIII.
DISCOURAGING CIRCUMSTAXCES APPREHENSIONS
OI'' INDIAN TROUBLES MEASURES FOR DEFENSE
— THE :minute-men — last hostile indian
KILLED IN IOWA THE TOWNSHIPS— COUNTY
GOVERNMENT THE FIKST BOARD OF SUPERVIS- ORS THE BREAKING OUT OF THE WAR THE
CALL FOR TROOPS HEAVY ENLISTMENTS RE- NEWED APPREHENSIONS OF INDIAN TROUBLES
GOVERNOR KIRKWOOD APPOINTS JUDGE BALDWIN TO LOOK AFTER FRONTIER DEFENSE ONE IN- STANCE SHOWING THE NATURE OF THE DANGER TO WHICH THE SETTLERS WERE EXPOSED,
\\K disastrous effects of the ])aiiie of lsr)7 upon emiijration and settlement were f(dt with increasing severity. As lias before been stated, emigration almost entirely ceased and the few that did come during the year and a half preced- ing the breaking out of the war seemed to l)e of that class who came to the frontier because they could find nothing else to do. They lacked the intelligence, energy and enterprise that char- acterized the first settlers. The population was now shifting, as many of the first who had come here yielded to the dis- couragements and dilficulties by which they were surrounded, or had become disgusted .at seeing those who had assumed to be leaders in the different enterprises which had been ]n'o- jected spent their means and energy in futile attempts to crush each other, rather than in the legitimate business of build- ing up and carrying forward the enterprises they had in hand. The result was that many left who had previously thought i'av- oraldy of making their permanent residence here, while those
226 DICKINSON COUNTS - IOWA
who remained were more or less discouraged and disheartened.
Tlie spring and summer of 1800 were uneventful. Appre- hensions of difficulties with the Indians were continually felt by the more timid, and as the sequel proved, two years later, these apprehensions Avere well founded. - (lovernor Kirkwood had always manifested a lively interest in the growth and pros- perity of the frontier settlements, and no man realized better than he the dangers to which they were exjiosed or the necessity of more adequate protection for them.
This question of frontier defense was a serious one for the state authorities. While the soldiers were at their posts and on duty, but very few Indians were to be seen, and the few that were met with were profuse in their protestations of friendship. jS^o outrages were committed and no indignities offered to the settlers, thus seeming to justify the criticisms so often made on the state authorities for such an extravagant use of the public funds as keeping an armed force on the fron- tier simply to gratify the vanity of a few favorites who Avere ambitious to wear soldier straps. But no sooner were the forces withdr.awn than the annoyances began again. For about a year after Captain Martin's command was withdrawn the frontier was left without any pretense of protection by the state Avhatever.
In March, 1860, at the regular session of the Eighth Gen- eral Assembly, the following bill was passed :
"Section 1. Be it enacted by the General Assembly of the State of Iowa, That for the purpose of protecting the citi- zens of the northwestern portion of the state and enabling them to defend themselves against the threatened depreda- tions of marauding bands of hostile Indians, the Governor be and is hereby authorized to furnish to said settlers such arms and ammunition as he may deem necessary for the pur- poses aforesaid.
THE MINUTE-MEN 227
''Sec. 2. That the Grovernor be and herel)y is author- ized to cause to be enrolled a company of minute-men in num.- ber not exceeding twelve, at the Governor's discretion, who shall at all times, hold themselves in readiness to meet any threatened invasion of hostile Indians as aforesaid. The said minute-men only to be paid for the time .actually employed in the services herein contemplated.
''Sec. 3. That the said minute-men, under the orders of the Governor at his discretion, and under such regulations as he may prescribe, a number of not exceeding four may be employed as an active police for such time and to perform such services ,as may be demanded of them, Mdio shall be paid only for the period during which they shall be actively employed as aforesaid.
"Sec. 4. There is hereby appropriated from the state treasury the sum of five hundred dollars, or so much thereof as may be necessary, for carrying into effect the provisions of this act."
This act was approved March 0th, 1800.
Thus we see that the state of Iowa, was put on a war footing of four men in active service and a reserve of eight to fall back on in case of an emerg-ency, and the whole backed by an appropriation of five hundred dollars, and this, too, for the de- fense of two hundred miles of exposed frontier.
The minute-men were enlisted and stationed on the fron- tier, with headquarters at Cherokee. Prominent among them were two brothers from Alden, in Hardin County in this state, by the name of Purcell. Sam, the older of the two, was ap- pointed leader. At that time they were well known along the border for their .skill and courage as trappers ,and frontiersmen. Another member who was well known to the peoj^le here was George (W. Lebaurvoux, of Cherokee. 'Whether there is any record in existence giving the names of the parties in full, how long they were kept in service, what they were paid, when they were discharged or any other facts in relation to them, is not now kno'wn.
228 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
They were on duty from a year to a year and a half and thev did sph/ndid i^ervici'. They were viiiihint, active and i4cvt, and attended strictly to their bnsiness, which was to carry dispatches from one ])oint to another, to investigate and i^'et at the trnth of all rej^orts reg.arding the movements of the Indians, and, in short, to make themselves generally nsefnl. They did it faithfnlly and Avcdl. Tt is mnch to be regretted that no ofheial record of their existence has been preserved. They were in all probability the only legally authorized company of milinte-men ever raised in the state of Iowa, and it wonld be interesting to know more of them. It nuiv be interesting to note here as a historical incident that the last hostile Indian killed in Iowa w,as by these scouts. The circumstances, as related 1)v the men them- selves and afterw.ards written \\\) by ]\Ir. Jarel) Palmer for the Spirit Lake Beacon, .and i)ublished in February, 1803, were stibstantially as follows:
'^About the first <»f Se})tember,. 1861, they were out scouting near the headwaters of Mill Creek and did not return until quite late at night. At this time they were making their headquarters at Cherokee and boarding with Lieutenant Le- baurvoux. Xot caring to disturb Lebaurvaux and his family, who had already retired, they put their horses in the stable, which was simply a frame of crotches and poles covered with hay. After caring for their horses, they clambered u]ion the top of the stable, wrapped themselves in their blankets and were soon sleeping the slee^) of the weary. But ere long the alert ear of one of the scouts detected an nnnsual noise in the stable below. Quietly waking his l)r(>tlier, they listened and became convinced that Indians were atteni])ting to steal their horses.
"The night was moonless but starlight. How many savages were in the stable, they did not know, yet fearlessly gras]nng their rifles, they prepared to kill each his red man. Soon tw^o of them appeared, each leading a horse, one of which belonged to the Lieutenant and the other one to the scouts. Each
THE LAST INDIAN KILLED IN IOWA 229
selected bis Indian and fired, when the one leading the horse belonging to the Lieutenant fell dead in his tracks. The other one, thongli badly wounded, succeeded in making his escape. A party followed the trail next day and ascertained that the horse had dragged the Indian several miles before be* was able to mount. It was afterwards learned that this Indian, though badly wounded, succeeded in reaching the agency, that he finally recovered, and what is more, he kept the stolen horse."
Politically, the first settlers of this county wore republicans, and for years there was not a democratic vote cast. At the first organization of the county, there were no township or- ganizations effected and no township oflicers elected. This state of affairs remained in force until 1850, when the county was divided into two civil townships. Spirit Lake and Oko- boji. The bridge at the narrows between East and West Oko- boji Lakes was tlie division line. The next year, or in 1800, a change was made and tlie town of East Okoboji was or- ganized. The name of this town was subsequently changed to Tusculum. This arrangement for the civil township re- mained in force for several years, or until 18G6, when a new deal was made by the .addition of Center Grove and Lake- ville. A new adjustment of boundaries was also nfade at this time.
This arrangement remained in force until 1872, when the congressional townships were all organized as civil townships with the exceptions of .Westport and Excelsior, which were together as one township until 1875.
The reader will bear in mind that at the time of the organi- zation of this county, the county judge system was in force and remained in force until 1860. The (dder residents of the state will remember that under the old county judge system of government, the judges had almost al)solute control of all matters connected with county government, and the system proved good or bad just as good or ba<l men were placed in
280 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the position. There is no qnestion bnt that one man can trans- act more business and do it better and cheaper than any de- liberative body, if he possesses the requisite integrity and ability for his position ; whik* on the contrary, if the })o\ver is placed in incompetent or dishonest hands,, an amount of injury can be done that is almost incalculable.
The abuse of the county judge system had come to be a seri- ous evil in this state and all portions were clamorous for its repeal. The system w.as finally abolished in I860, and the supervisor system adopted in its stead.
AVhen first adopted, the supervisor system provided for a supervisor from each organized township, being modeled after tile I^ew York system. This proved so cumbersome that it was afterward changed to the present system. The otfice of county judge was retained until 1868, but its duties were merely nominal, being simjdy judge of probate in their re- spective counties. Leoniclas Congleton was county judge when the county business was transferred from that otfice to the Board of Supervisors.
The first Board of Supervisors were J. S. Prescott for ()k()bi>ji, Kosalvo Kingman for Spirit Lake, and Willi.am Bark- man for East Okoboji, or Tusculum, as it was afterwards called ; John Smith, clerk of the district court, acting as clerk. At that time the clerk of the district court was ex officio clerk of the Board of Su]>ervisors, the otfice of county auditor not having been established until 1868. One of the first acts of this Board of Supervisors was the giving of quit- claim deeds to large quantities of swamp land to the contract- ors for the ]mblic building, upon their giving bonds that the contemplated improvements should be completed according to agreement.
Armed with these deeds, which were eventually declared worthless, they sent Mr. Prescott to northern Illinois and Mr.
BREAKING OUT OF TIIK WAR 231
Arthur to Wisconsin where they sncceeded in disposing of quite a large quantity of them, but at a mere nominal price. Mr. Prescott also succeeded in inducing quite an emigration from Winnebago County, Illinois, during the spring and sum- mer of 1861. Prominent among those who came that season were Daniel Bennett, Henry Meeker, William Close, J. W. O. Farrel, Samuel Phippin, E. Y. Osborn, James Evans, C. H. and Samuel Evans, John Brown, H. W. Davis, Samuel Rogers, George Kellogg and several others. These all brought their families with them and for a short time the discouraged settlers began to hope that emigration had revived and that new life and vitality were to be injected into the frontier set- tlements. But this hope was of short duration.
The breaking out of the Civil War in the spring of 1861 put a stop to emigration altogether. Just as circumstances began to look a little more prosperous and settlers began to look with a little more hope to the future, then came the start- ling news that Sumpter had been attacked and that hostilities had commenced.
Then came the call for troops, and as a result the restless and adventurous element, which under ordinary circumstances strikes for the frontier, now went into the army, and as the season advanced and the preparations for war began to assume such gigantic proportions, emigration ceased entirely. In addition to this, as soon as it became evident that the rebellion was not going to be easily crushed, but that the contest would be sanguinary and bitter, the great majority of those who were liable to militarv dutv went into the armv.
Nor was this all. Along the sparsely settled region of the frontier, the proj)ortion going into the army was greater than anywhere else. In no part of the country did the call for troops meet with a more ready response than in this county. A majority of* those liable to military duty enlisted in the
232 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
summer of 1801. The first enlistments were for an independ- ent cavalry company that was being raised at Fort Dodge, which after being sent to the Army of the Potomac, was finally, through some sort of hocus-pocus, transferred to the Eleventh Pennsylvania (/'avalry instead" of an Iowa regiment. Through the efiorts of General X. B. Baker, this company was afterward credited to Iowa's cpiota of troojis, but served in the Armv of the Potomac to the close of the war.
The names of those from this county who served in that company were as follows : F. A. Blake, E. P. Ring, Samuel Rogers, Seth Emery, Charles Matthews, Albert Hodge, Charles Tunzer and George Daniels. E. P. Ping rose to the rank of major before his discharge. While he was captain of the company, it won a reputation for reckless daring equalled by few and excelled by none. The next com])any to receive re- cruits from this county was known as the Sioux ( 'ity Cavalry, afterwards as Company I, Seventh Iowa Cavalry. The re- cruits from this county were as follows : A. Kingman, Ilenrv Schuneman, George Rogers, M. J. Smith, Thomas Doughty, Frank Doughty, H. I). Arthur, John Francis, Peter Ladu, Ethel Ellis, Gunder Mattheson, Xorton Warner, Jareb Pal- mer, Robert Henderson, J^orton Crosby, James Shackleford, H. C. Owen, Frank Mead and David Maxwell. G. C. Kowe was given a captain's commission in the Xintli Iowa Cavalry. Daniel Bennett enlisted in an Illinois regiment. These are all of the enlistments from this county during ISiil.
Subsequent to that time the enlistments from this county were as follows: H. J. Bennett, G. D. Rogers, Ilenrv (). Far- rell, William Prescott, L. F. Ring, Jolni Jenkins, Fber Pal- mer, George Kellogg, W^illinm G. Jenkins, George Cooper and jSTewton Farmer. There were drafted from this county : . C. H. Evans, James Evans, L. A. Stimpson and Samuel Phi])])in. Of these the two Evans went into the army and served to the
APPREHENSIONS OF TROUBLE ON THE FRONTIER 233
close of the war, Phippin was rejected on examination on ac- connt of physical disability and Stimpson secnred a snbsti- tute.
There were others also who left here before enlistine; and so were credited to other localities, nntil at one time there were not more than a half dozgn men in the connty liable to enrollment for military dnty.
During- the period now under consideration but little oc- curred worth recording, except it was in some way related to the military operations of the country. Xearly every family was in some way represented in the army, and little else was thought of or talked of than the prospective success or failure of the forces in the field.
More or less apprehension had ]>een felt from the start of Indian depredations. As a rule the Indians avoided the lake regions in their periodical excursions through the country. Occasionally a small party would stray through here, pretend- ing to be friendly, but they were always shy and uncommuni- cative. As the settlement grew in strength these apprehensions grew less, .and families were beginning to feel a sense of secur- ity which was quite a relief from the feeling of ever-present danger which had prevailed up to this time.
The breaking out of the war, and the enlistment of nearly all of the able bodied men in the armv, brought back the old feeling of danger .and insecurity with all of its old time vivid- ness. It will be noticed that a majority of those enlisting from this county had gone into Company I, of the Seventh Iowa Cavalry, or as it was then called, the Sioux City Cavalry. This company was not assigned to any regiment f«:)r more than a year after its iirst organization, but was detailed for scout- ing and frontier service.
During the winter of ISfil and 1802, they were divided up and scattered along tlie frontier from Sioux City to Esther-
234: DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
ville. Their headquarters were in Sioux City, ,and they had to gx) in every montli to muster and draw their pay. The balance of the time they si:)ent in scouting and carrying dis- patches froni post to post. These posts had been established idong tlie frontier at points .about lifteeTi ^miles aj)art. This plan was kej)t up during the winter of 18G1 and 1802. Everv day dispatclies went sent over the line and reports made to headquarters. While tlie (hinger to which these troo])S serving on the frcjutier were exposed was not supposed to be as great as that of those who had gone to the front, their exposures, hardships and privations were much greater.
No person realized the importance of nuiintaining the fron- tier along its then existing lines more than Governor Kirh- wood. Hostilities had no sooner commenced at the South than he realized the fact that the probabilities of trouble along the frontier were largelv increased. As earlv as the twentv-iifth of April, or only a few days after the fall of Sumpter, he wrote a letter to his friend, Judge Baldwin of Council Bluffs, recommending the forming of volunteer companies. He says :
"I authorize vou to make anv such arrangements as vou mav think the safety of the border requires in the way of organiz- ing comj3anies and perfecting a system of communication with each other in case of need. I leave the wdiole matter to your discretion, confident that you will in all respects act with due regard to the safety of the frontier and the public inter- est."
Judge Baldwin appointed General G. ^I. Dodge his adju- tant, and on the sixth of May they together issued a circular or open letter to the inhabitants of the frontier counties em- bodying Governor Kirkwood's ideas and explaining the de- tails of their organizations. These communications are inter- esting, as reflecting the state of public feeling at that time, but are too long to be produced here. There was no company
DANGER TO FRONTIER SETTLEMENTS 235
oi-i>-.anize<l in this coimtv under the foregoin,"' arrangement. The i)reliniinaries for one were arranged at one time and the organization partly effected, but before it conhl be completed most of the boys volunteered and went into the service of the Ignited States, and the "Home Guard" never materialized.
The following example is given as showing the nature of the danger to which the frontier settlements were ,at this time exposed. The fact that this event occurred within three miles of Sioux City only served to show up in stronger light the nature of the danger.
On the ninth day of July, 1861, two men were murdered by hostile Indians within three miles of Sioux City under the fol- lowing circumstances : These men's names were Thomas Roberts and Henry Cordua. They had left town th.at morn- ing for the purpose of working in a patch of potatoes three miles away, and not returning at night their families began to fear that some misfortune Ivad befallen them, so a small l)arty of men started out in the night for the purpose of ascer- taining the cause of their detention. Upon arriving at the ])lace where the men had been at work, their wagon was found overturned, the liarness lying on the ground and the horses gone.
After a brief search the bodies of the men were found near where they had been working. Appearances indicated that the murdered men had stopped work about noon to eat their lunch and feed their horses. After tying their horses to the w.agon and feeding them, the men had gone to a stream in a ravine near by to procure water. Upon returning and when within a short distance of the plowed field, they had been fired upon by the Indians in ambush. ^Ir. Roberts was shot in the back, the ball passing through the breast and lodging in liis right hand, which was resting upon his breast with his
236 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
thumb in the armhole of the vest. From this it is evident that he was unconscious of danger when the fatal shot was fired. The pail in which he had procured water remained in his hand, still holding about a quart of w.ater. The ball fired at Cordua took effect in the left side and, passed out of the right breast.
CHAPTER XIX.
THE MINNESOTA MA8SACEE ^IlOW IT BEGAX
AMBUSH OF CAPTAIN MARSH THE BATTLES OF
FORT EIDGLEY AND NEW ULM THE INDIAN
DREAD OF ARTILLERY— COEONEL SIBLEY PLACED
IN COMMAND THE BATTLE OF BIRCH COULEE
THE PRISONERS SIBLEy's EFFORT TO GET
THEM WITHOUT FIGHTING A FAILURE BATTLE
OF WOOD LAKE SIBLEY MAKES ANOTHER DE- MAND FOR THE PRISONERS INDIANS DIVIDED
THE LARGER PARTY WITH THE PRISONERS SUR- RENDER AT CAMP RELEASE LITTLE CROW WITH
HIS BAND ESCAPES UP THE RIVER LITTLE CROW
VENTURES TO THE SETTLEMENT THE FOLLOWING
YEAR AND IS KILLED THE INDIAN PRISONERS
TRIED BY A MILITARY COMMISSION AND THREE
HUNDRED AND THREE SENTENCED TO BE HUNG
PRESIDENT LINCOLN INTERFERES ORDERS THIR- TY-NINE OF THE LEADERS HUNG THE BALANCE
SUBSEQUENTLY PLACED ON A RESERVATION
THE EFFECT ON THE WII,D TRIBES.
EVEXTS now followed each other on the northwestern frontier in rapid succession which more than justified the meag-er and insntficient measures which had been inaugurated for frontier defense. The Indian outbreak on the western frontier of Minnesota in the summer and fall of 1862 is so closely connected with the history of northwestern Iowa, and especiallv of this coun- ty, that it is entitled to a somewhat extended notice. That the destruction of the settlements here and along the Des Moines River was a part of their original plan has been pretty
238 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
clearly estaLlislied, and this fact renders the story of the ^Lin- nesota massacre more interesting- to Iowa readers. -Tndge riandrau's account of the commencement of the trouble, writ- ten several years later, is .about as clear and concise as it could well be made and is as follows :
"Everything about the agency up to the eighteenth day of August, ]862, presented the usual appearance of quiet and security. On the seventeenth of August a small party of Indians appeared at Acton and murdered several settlers. Whether these Indians had previously hd't the agency with this intention is doubtful, but on the news of these murders reaching the Indians at the Upper Agency on the eighteenth, open hostilities were at once commenced and the traders and wdiites Avere indiscriminately massacred.
'^The missionaries residing a short distance above the Yellow Medicine Agency and their people with a few others were notified in time by a few friendly disposed Indians, and to the number of about forty made their escape to Hutchinson. Similar events occurred at the Lower Agency on the same day where nearly all the traders and whites were butchered, and several wdio got away before the general massacre commenced were overtaken and killed before reaching Fort Ridgley, thirteen miles l)elow, or other places 'of safety to which points they were fleeing. N^early all of the buildings at both agencies were destroyed and such property as was valuable to the In- dians was carried off and appropriated by them. The news of the outbreak reached Fort Ridgley about eight o'clock \. M., .Vugust eighteenth.
"The fort was in command of (Captain John S. ^farsh, Com- pany B, Fifth Minnesota Volunteer Infantry. He had eighty- five men in his company from which he selected forty-five, leaving the balance under the command of Licuten.ant T. P. Gere to defend the fort. This little squad undor the com- mand of Captain Marsh, with a full sujiply of annnunition, provisions, blankets, etc., accompanied In- a six mule team, left the fort at nine A. M., on the eighteenth of August, for the Lower Agency, wdiich "was distant about thirteen miles up the Minnesota River and situated on the other side of the river from the fort, being reached liv ferrv from the agencv.
MINNESOTA OUTBREAK 239
"On the marcli up the command passed nine or ten dead bodies lying in the road, bearing evidence of having been mur- dered that morning by the Indians, one of whom was Doctor Humphrey, surgeon at the agency. On reaching the vicinity of the ferry no Indians were in sigTit, except one on the other side of the river who endeavored to induce them to cross. A dense chaparal bordered the river on the agency side, and tall grass covered the bottom on the side ^vhere were the troops. Suspicion of the presence of Indians was aroused by the disturbed cr)ndition of the water of the river, which was muddy and contained floating grass. Then a grou}) of ponies was seen. At this point, and without a moment's notice, In- dians in great numbers sprang up on all sides of the troops and opened upon them a deadly fire. About half of the men were killed instantly. Finding themselves surrounded, the survivors endeavored to make their escape the best way they could.
''Several desperate luind to hand encounters occurred with varying results and the remnant of the command made a point down the river about two miles from the ferry, Captain Marsh being of the number. They attempted to cross, but the Captain w^as drowned in the attempt. Only thirteen of the command reached the fort alive. * * * Having massacred the people at the agencies, the Indians at once sent out ma- rauding parties in all diredtions. They covered the country to the northeast ,as far as Glencoe and Hutchinson, to the southeast nearly to St. Peter, and to the south as far as Spirit Lake, Iowa. They carried death and devastation wherever thev went, murdering men, women and children to the num- ber of one thousand. The settlers being accustomed to their friendly visits, were t.aken unawares and were shot down in detail without an opportunity for defense."
In .addition to the engagement at the Lower Agency, as aljove described, wliich was really nothing more nor less than a l)rutal massacre, there were engagements betw^ecn bodies of Indians and organized forces of soldiers and settlers at Fort Ridgley, Xew Ulm and Birch Coulee in the order named. It will be rememl)ered that the action at the Lower Agency was on the afternoon of the eighteenth of August. Two days
240 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
later, or on the afternoon of the twentieth, the Indianii made their tirst attack on Fort Rids'lev. Foi't Kidiilev was .at this time garrisoned by the remnant of Captain Marsh's company that had been so fearfnlly cnt up in the ambush at the Lower Agency, and one company of the Fifth Minnesota Infantry, nnder Lieutenant Sheehan. who arriyed there on the nine- teenth, haying made a forced march of fortv-ifive miles in nine and one-half hours.
The balance of the forces were volunteer organizations and not in the military service of the LTnited States. Ridgley was in no sense a fort, but simply a collection of houses built for the accommodation of the troops.
As before stated, the first attack was made on the afternoon of the twentieth, and lasted about tliree hours, when the In- dians were driven back. Two attacks were made on the next day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, lasting about a hour and a half each, but without any decisive result. During the night of the twenty-first the Indians were largely reinforced by the arrival of their head chief. Little ("row, with about five hundred additional warriors.
On the morning of Friday, the twenty-second, the savages seemed determined to carry the post at all hazards. They made repeated assaults .and were as often driven back. These assaults continued for nearly five hours, when the Indians, finding all of their efforts baffled, drew off, and concentrating all of their forces started down the river for Xew Flm for their final and most desperate eff(n*t, which place they reached on the morning of the twenty-third. Xew Flm is situated thirteen miles from Fort Ridgley down the river, while the Lower Agency is about the same distance above, and the Upper Agency some distance above that, near the mouth of the YelloAV ]\redicine River,
ATTACK ON NEW ULM 2il
The southern Ixmndary of the reservation was but a few miles from Xew Uhn, makina- it the most exposed point on the Minnesota frontier. Xo government forces were stationed there, and after the outbreak at tfie agency on the eighteenth, it was evident that probably Xew Ulm would be the first set- tlement to be attacked. Apprehending this the adjacent set- tlements at once took measures for defense. At St. Peters a company of one hundred and sixteen men was at once raised and the command given to Judge Flandrau. Other places raised such forces .as they could and instinctix'oly they all seemed to gravitate toward Xew Ulm as l)eing the place where their services would l)e soonest needed, and l)y the morning of the twenty-second the force numbered about three hundred, but very ]')oorly armed. Judge Flandrau was at once chosen to command, and he proceeded as rapidly as possible to get things in a manageable condition.
Xothing of serious consequence occurred until the morning of the twentv-third, when at about nine-thirtv A. M. the In- dians came down upon them seven hundred strong. At first the advantage Avas slightly with the Indians, but the settlers soon rallied and after recovering from the nervousness inci- dent to the first attack held the Indians off in good shape. The savages soon surrounded the town and commenced firing the buildings on the windward side. By two o'clock the fire was raging on both sides of Main Street in the lower part of town. About this time a squad of about fifty men charged through the burning street and drove the Indians out beyond the houses. Thev then burned everything that could serve as a protection to the savages, and the day was won. The loss on the part of the inhabitants was about sixty. The numl)er engaged was nominally three hundred, but they had not arms for more than two hundred to be on duty at a time. About one hundred and ninety houses were burned all trdd, partlv
242 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
l>_v the Indians and partly by the settlers. The iiohtina eon- tinned all Satnrday night, with some firing Snnday morning. The Indians then drew off to the northwest in the direction of their reserv.ation.
There were in the town at the time of the attack from twelve to fifteen hnndred non-c<>ud)atants, men, women and children, and these wonld all have been massacred had the Indians -snc- ceeded in carrying the town. One fact which was developed at the battle of Fort Ridgley and which proved of inestimable valne to the white troo})s during the remainder of the Indian camjiaign, was the superstitious dread the savages had of ar- tillery and more especially of shells. The unearthly whiz- 7.mg and shrieking of these mysterious monsters as they howled through the .air was something new to them and iur spired them with a terror wholly uncontrollable. The second explosion or bursting of the shell was t<» them something "whollv unaccountable and the effect was demoralizine' in the extreme.
How much this simple circumstance may have had to do with the Indians changing their plans and abandoning their Iowa campaign altogether, we can only conjecture, but there is no doubt it had something to do with it. The following extract from a description of the battle of Fort Kidgley by an eye witness and published in the ]\[inneapolis Journal, is given in this connection :
''Realizing that the cannon were their worst foes, the Indian sharpshooters had exerted themselves to get Sergeant Jones. Every lineal foot of timber along the line of the barricade which protected his gun was splintered by a close and accurate fire. But still the gun was worked and the shells continued to fall among the warriors at the shortest possible range. iMcGrew drojy^jed the first shell from the big gun in dangerous proximity to the party that was swinging around from the northeast. Training his gun to the west, he dropped the sec-
DEFENSE OF FORT KIDGLEY 243
Olid shell exactly .at the point where this party had joined a grouj) of squaws, ponies and dogs west of the main body. Yelping dogs, shrieking sqnaws, wailing children and fright- ened bucks ran in all directions and sought shelter behind every ineqnality of ground. McGrew then directed his tire between this force and the main body, and succeeded in pre- venting a consolidation. The reports of the big gun were as demoralizing to the Indians as its frightful execution. In the meantime, in front of Jones' position there was a lull in the fire and across the space separating the coinl)atants, the whites could hear Little Crow exhorting his warriors to take courage for the last fierce rush. * "" ■'" While the general of the Indian forces tried the effect of or.atory, Jones arranged a very effective counter argument l»y <louble sliotting his piece with canister. Spurred on with the inspiring words of their chief, a band of desperate warriors rushed straight toward Jones' barricade.
"The Indian doesn't alw.a^^s fight behind trees. Sometimes he delivers an assault in the open as bravely as white troops. * * * On came the painted, yelling warriors, brandishing their weapons and leaping madly in their rage and hatred. A cloud of smoke belched from the black muzzle of the gun, a band of flame shot forward and eighteen warriors fell to the ground in the agonies of death or gaping wounds. This terrible blow completely unmanned the savages. They fell back in disorder, pursued by shrieking shells thrown through the flames and smoke of the burnino- buildings. The fight was over,
*!=- M
The following description of the wonderful mirage that was observed after the battle is by the same writer.
"Suddenly a strange and weird spectacle caught Lieutenant Sheehan's eyes as he glanced up' at the smoky clouds. There in the skies occurred a plienemenon that in ,a more credulous age Avould have been taken as a sign of grace direct from God Him- self. On the screen of the clouds, as though thrown by some great stereopticon, a mirage repeated and revealed the whole battle scene. The outline of the fort and the disposition of its defenders was clearly shown, with all at their places and the guns still throwing shells into the valley where the re- treating Indians, as shown by the retreating images in the
244 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
clouds, were in tlie greatest confusion. Tepees were being- torn down, goods were b^ing packed on jjonies, ])apooses were strapped to backs and hurried retreat begun, while the sullen warriors held back to gu.ard the rear. In their turn the Indians could see reflected the confident aspect of all within the fort. It cannot be doubted that to their supc^rstitious minds it was an unmistakable omen of the wratli of the Great Spirit."
The news of the ontbreak reached Governor Ilamsey at St. Paul on the nineteenth. He at once communicated with Ex- Governor Sibley and re(piested liim to accept the command of such forces as could be jmt into the field against the Indians. He immediately accepted the position with the rank of Colonel of tlie Militia. A great many troops were at that time nuis- tered into the United States service .at Fort Snelling expect- ing to be sent south. Their destination was changed, and Colonel Sibley soon found liimself in command of (piiti- a re- spectable force. He reached Fort Ridgley on the twenty- eighth, or five days after the l)attle of Xew Ulm. Fpon the arrival of the government troops, the volunteer organizations disbanded .and went home. Two days after his arrival at the fort Colonel Sibley dispatched a force of one liundred and fifty men, under the command of Major Jose])h K. Brown, u]) to the agency to bury the dead and bring in such infor- nKiti(»n recarding the movements of the Indians as he could obtain.
This expedition left the fort on the thirty-first of August, and on arriving at the .agency found the buildings all de- stroyed. Then they went through the Indian settlement, vis- ited the home of Little Crow and of other Indians, .and made a general reconnoissance of the vicinity in that h)cality, l)ut saw no signs of Indians. On the evening of the second day, which was the first of September, they went into camp near the head of a ravine known as Birch Coulee. Not having seen any Indians or any signs of any, they were heedless of
BIRCH COULEE 245
danger, and selected their camp more with a view to conveni- ence than safetv. It would seem that the experience of Cap- tain Marsh's company in that immediate vicinity only two weeks before wonld have taught them the necessity of extreme caution. But such it seems was not the case. Even the usual precaution of throwing out pickets was neglected.
The whole party of tired soldiers threw themselves on the ground ,and slept soundly, regardless of the fact that they were in the enemy's country. From this sleep they were rudely awakened about four o'clock the next morning by the sharp cracking of hundreds of rifles in the hands of invisible foes. Tt was the same old storv of ambush and slaughter, so often repeated in the history of the country. As was after- wards ascertained, a large force of Indians had assembled with the intention of making a descent on St. Peter, and if successful there, of sweeping up through Mankato and the Blue Earth Valley, and had that morning started down the river for that purpose, but on seeing Brown's force go into camp, changed their plan and determined to cut him off. They accordingly waited until after dark, when they quietly sur- rounded his camp, and in the early twilight made a furious attack. The slaughter was terrible. Twenty-three were killed and forty-five severely, and several more slightly, wounded in the first hour and a half. There were ninety horses and these were all killed.
The survivors now succeeded in forming a kind of breast- work of the wagons, of which there were seventeen,' and the dead horses, which served as a partial protection against the deadly fire of the Indians. There were four or five spades and shovels with the command, and with these and their sabres some of the men succeeded in digging pits or holes in the ground into which they crawled for shelter. Xo Indians were in sight, and yet let any one of the party show himseli he
246 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
was sure to draw the fire of several ritlcs in ilie hands of the unseen foe.
In this Avav the dav was passed and the succeedini>- nio'lit, and it was not nntil near noon of the second day th,at they were relieved by Colonel Sibley, who,- becoming ini[)atient of their delay and alarmed for their safety, started out Avith the main body to meet them. Upon the approach of Colonel Sib- ley, the Indians drew ofl" and retreated np the river. It was now two weeks since the eonnneneement of the troubles, and the Indians were known to have with them between two and three hundred prisoners. They had massacred or killed in action fully one thousand people.
The all-important question with Colonel Sibley now w^as how to g-et possession of the prisoners. Having this question upper- most in his mind he left on the battle ground of Birch Coulee the following communication attached to a stake driven into the ground :
"If Little Crow has any pi-oposition to make let him send a half-breed to me and he shall be jirotected in and out of camp.
"H. II. Sibley.'^
The letter was found and answered by Little Crow on the sev- enth, but all mention of the prisoners was evaded, when Colonel Sibley sent a second letter .as follows :
"Little Crow: You have murdered many of our people with- out cause. Return me the prisoners under a flag of truce .and I will talk with you then like a man. LI. H. Sip.t.ey."
This was also answered in an evasive and unsatisfactory manner, when Siblev sent a third communication stating that no peace could be made without a full surrender of the pris- oners, and charging them with the commission of nine murders since the receipt of Little Crow's last letter. He informed them that he was now strong enough to crush anv force thev
SURRENDER AND RELEASE OF PRISONERS 247
could hring- against him, and gave them three days more in which to deliver up the prisoners.
Upon receipt of this letter a large council was called, at which nearly all of the annuity Indians were present. The council w.as hopelessly divided. One portion was in favor uf surrendering the prisoners and making the best terms they could. The other were in favor of holding out to the l>itter end and taking the consequences. One of the leaders of the party fav- oring peace and surrender w.as Paul Mazaiutemani, one of the iDarty sent out by M.ajor Flandrau in 1857 for the rescue of Miss Gardner, one of the prisoners taken at the lakes and held by the Indians at that time. It was he who warned tlie missionaries, giving them a chance to escape. He was instru- mental in preventing the massacre of many of the prisoners, and was a true friend to the settlers through the entire affair.
The correspondence with the Indians was kept u]) for several days, but with no satisfactory results. Deeming further delay worse than useless, Sil)loy now determiued to move against the Indians. .Accordingly on the eighteenth he broke camp at Jort Ridgley, crossed the river and started in ])ursuit of the savages, coming uj) with tliem on the morning of the twenty- third of September, between Yellow Medicine River and iWood Lake. The attack was made at once .and the battle soon be- came general, and continued about an hour and a half, when the Indians were routed and retreated in confusion. It was afterward learned that before the commencement of the action Little Crow detailed ten of his best marksmen with orders to kill C*olonel Sibley at all hazards, but a shell from the howitzer ex})loded in the midst of this special band .and killed a part of them .and hopelessly demoralized the rest.
This was known as the battle of Wood Lake, and was the first action in which the whites met the Indians on anvthing like equal terms. After this fight Colonel Sibley proceeded up the
248 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
river an<l eain})i'il <i])posite the inontli of the ('hip])e\va, where it empties into the Minnesota. A lariic force (»f Indians were eamjied jnst a short distance away. They were composed of both upper and h)\ver Sioux, and had hecn engaged in all the massacres tliat had taken jilace, and the (\esire on the part of the troops to attack .and punish them was intense, but Colonel Sibley kept steadily in view the fact that the rescue of the pris- oners was his first duty and he well knew that any demonstra- tion of violence just at this time would be followed by the im- mediate destruction of the captives. He, therefore, wisely overruled all hostile demonstrations.
The result was a general surrender of tlie main body, together with all the ])risoners. The place where the surri'nder occur- red has since been known as Camp Release, and is situated nearly twenty-five miles .above the Upper Ageney, an<l nearly seventy miles above Fort Ridgley. Previous to the surrender Little Crow, with a few followers, escaped up the river. After the safety of the captives was secured then the serious question arose, fWhat should be done with the prisoners ? Tliey had murdered men, women and children ruthlessly and without cause or provocation, .and to treat them as prisoners of war would be simply a l)urlesque. On the other hand they could not be executed like so manv wild beasts without some kind of trial.
In this dilemma Colonel Sibley conceived the idea of organiz- ine; a militarv tribunal and trvin"' the leaders and those who had l)een most active in the depredations and outrages, by court martial. Accordingly, on the twenty-eighth of Septend)er an order was issued convening this extraordinarv court. It was composed of five officers, and entered at once on the discharge of its duties. The first session was at f\amp Release, where several cases were disposed of. From there it adjourned to the Lower Agencv, and from thence to Mankato, and finally
THE MILITARY TRIBUNAL 2-t9
wound ^}\) its work at Y'ort Snellini>; on tlie fifth of JSTovember, during Avliich time it investigated four Imiidrcd and twenty- five cases, of which number three hundred and twenty-one were found guilty, and three hundred and three sentenced to be hung. These prisoners were brought from the reservation to Mankato chained together and under strong military guard, where they were confined in .a large log jail l>uilt for that s})ecial purpose and guarded by a strong command of troo})s.
While this court martial was in session news of its proceed- ings reached the eastern cities and a great outcry was raised that the state of Minnesota w.as contemplating a great outrage in the massacre of her Indian prisoners. Intelligent bodies of well-intentioned but ill-informed people besieged President Lin- coln to put a stop to the proposed executions. The President sent for the records of the trials and turned them over to his legal advisers. As a result of his investigation, the President, on the sixth day of December, issued an order designating thirty-nine of the ring-leaders against whom the death penalty should be enforced, and directed that the balance should be held subject to further orders, "taking care that they neither escape, nor are subjected to any unlawful violence."
The President's orders were obeyed. Thirty-eight of the murderers were executed by hanging at Maidcato on the twenty- sixth of December, 18(52, one having l)een pardoned by the President. The balance of the ju-isoners were kept in confine- ment in their log prison until the opening of navigation the next spring, when they were put aboard of a steamer and sent to Daven})ort, Iowa. .Vfter heing kept in confinement there for some time they were placed on a reservation on the upper Missouri. Whether or not this was the wisest, disposition that could have been made of them is an open question and one upon which there is a wide divergence of opinion. It is boldly asserted hy those who have made a careful study of the subject
250 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
and are perfectly familiar with the relations between the In- dians anc| the general government, that nearly if not quite all of the trouble the government has had with the Dacotahs since the liberation of these prisoners has grown ont of the evil counsel of these same savages. Judge^ Flandrau remarks :
"An Indian never forgets an injury, real or fancied, and never forgives an enemy, and the advent among the Missouri River tribes of this large body of desperadoes, fresh from their scenes of murder and carnage, would be well calculated to in- cite them to acts of similar violence."
It is well known that many of the same Indians that planned and executed the am1)usli and massacre at the Lower Agencv and at Bircli Coulee were afterwards identified with the force that on the twenty-fifth of June, 1876, ambushed and destroyed General Custer and his entire command on the Little Big Horn in Wyoming. Up to the time of the release of these prisoners the Indians on the upper Missouri had had but liniitod inter- course with the whites and there is no di)id)t but the enmity and evil counsels of these Minnesota Indians has made the Avhole Indian question vastly harder to solve.
Judge Flandrau, writing on this subject in 1S92, says:
"It is my opinion that all of the troubles that have trans- pired since the liberation of these Indians with the tribes inhabiting the western plains and mountains have grown out of the evil counsels of these savages. The only proper course to have pursued with them when it was determined not to hang them was to have exiled tlieni to some remote post, say the Dry Tortugas, w^here communication with their poo]de would have been impossible, set them to work on fortifications or other public works and have alh^wed them to ]')ass out by life limita- tions."
It will be remembered that Little Crow escaped after the liatth' of Wood Lake and was not with the prisoners at Camp
DEATH OF LITTLE CROW 251
I
Release. On the third day of July, 1863, he ventured in the \
neighborhood of the settlements, and while in a field picking '
berries, was seen by a farmer who recognized him and shot | him dead on the spot. His scalp is held by the State Historical , j
Society of Minnesota. The state of Minnesota has recently i
erected monuments at Fort Ridgley, J^ew Ulm, Birch Coulee ;
and Camp Release. j
CHAPTER XX.
EVENTS IN IOWA- THE MASSACRE ALONG THE DES
MOINES— THE RELIEF PARTY APPEAL FOR GOV- ERNMENT PROTECTION THE SIOUX CITY CAVALRY
THE WEEK AT THE OLD COURTHOUSE BUILD- ING THE STOCKADE DISASTROUS EFFECT ON THE
SETTLEMENT MANY OF THE FIRST SETTLERS
. LEAVE MORE PARTICULARS OF THE SIOUX CITY
CAVALRY.
lilLE THE events related in the preceding chapter were being enacted on the Minnesota frontier, other events of simiLar character but on a smaller scale were trans- piring nearer home. On the morning of the twenty- ninth of Angnst, 1862, a ISTorwegian by the name of I^elson came into Spirit Lake with two children that he had carried in his arms from his home on the Des Moines River, some six miles above Jackson. The population on the Des Moines above Jackson at that time were exclusively ISTorwegians, and while they were sturdy and courageous and developed into the very best of soldiers after a reasonable amount of drill and experi- ence, they .at first had an almost superstitious fear of the In- dians, while the Indians entertained the utmost contempt and hatred for them. A large majority of the victims of this mas- sacre were ]!Torwegians, as they had settled on the western bor- der of Minnesota during the last few years in large numbers. Erom ISTelson's .account it appears that the inhabitants along the river had been apprised of the troubles at the agencies, and becoming alarmed by the reports had called a public meeting to consider the situation, and, if possible, devise means of de- fense. This was on the evening of the twenty-eighth
EVENTS IN IOWA 253
©f August. J^elson attended this meeting, leaving his family at home in his cabin. Upon his return home he found the family all killed except the two children before mentioned, and they had been taken up by the heels and their, heads knocked against the corner of the cabin and they were left for dead on the ground. One of the children .afterwards died but the other recovered.
A 'party of volunteers was immediately organized and pro- ceeded to the Des Moines, where they made a hasty reconnois- sance and returned to the lakes on the evening of the same day. A party of refugees from the river came part of the way over and concealed themselves in a ravine over night.
The next day a larger and better equipped party went over. Upon arriving at the river they met a small force from Esther- ville who were on tlie same errand as themselves. The two par- ties consolidated and together they proceeded to investigate the situation. They found that the Indians had struck the river at a point about four miles above Jackson and followed it up, mur- dering and destroying everything as they went. At one place one of the relief party heard an unusual noise, something re- sembling a groan, arxl after hunting around for a while found in the manger of an out-of-the-way stable, a boy about fourteen years old, who had been both shot and stabbed by the Indians ,and left for dead, but had so far recovered consciousness as to be able to drag himself to the old stable where he was found. He was taken care of by the relief party and eventually recovered.
They continued their march up the river. It was evident that all of the cabins along the river had been visited and depreda- tions committed. The number of victims along the Des Moines was not so great as it would have been but for the fact that they had been warned of danger and many had left the settlement for the d.anger to subside. Others had concealed themselves in the woods and ravines and made their escape. The relief party
254 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
followed up the river about fifteen or twenty miles where they camped for the night. At this point they found a cabin Vhere two or three families had joined their forces and barricaded the house and beat off their enemies. The Indians had kept them in a state of siege for fully forty-eight houKS. They were con- cealed in the ravines and thick brush that grew about the house, and every little while they would fire from their cover at the door ,and windows of the cabin and any other point they con- sidered vulnerable. The settlers in turn would fire from the jDortholes they had made in the cabin.
The guide they had in firing was to fire at the cloud of smoke made by the discharge of the Indians' guns, as they kept them- selves concealed in the brush and ravines. This kind of skir- mishing had been kept up for two days. The last Indian seen there, and the last gun fired, was about sunrise in the morning of the day on which the volunteers reached there in the even- ing, much to the relief of the besieged party. ISTo one had been killed on either side. This was the only place on the Des Moines River where any resistance was made. There was no settlement above this point, .and it w^as useless to continue the journey farther. The party went into camp about sundown and in the morning started back on their return trip, reaching the lakes on the evening of the same day. The total number of bodies found and buried by them was about fifteen.
The excitement which followed this affair was intense. The whole line of frontier settlements from Mankato to Sioux City was abandoned, except Estherville and Spirit Lake, which, by the w.ay, were the most exposed points on the whole line, being nearer the j)oints infested by the Indians and farther from as- sistance. When the magnitude and extent of the Minnesota Massacre came to be known and realized, the people here began to have sime appreciation of the nature and extent of the danger to which they had exposed themselves, and which they
RAID ON THE DES MOINES RIVER 255
had apparently defied. A short time before tliey liad rested in apparent and fancied secnrity. !N"ow the wonder was that this settlement was not wiped out wnth the rest, and they re- .alized for the first time how helpless and defenseless would have hcen their situation had an attack been made.
Efforts were at once made to secure government protection. Either this must be done or the entire line abandoned. The general government w^as not in position to do much for the frontier. They had just come to a realizing sense of the magni- tude of the job they had undertaken in attempting to crush the rebellion. The delays and disasters that had attended the op- eration of the Army of the Potomac were having a terribly de- pressing effect on public sentiment, and the results were any- thing but satisfactory.
This state of affairs was not very favorable to securing help, as every available man was needed at the front. The company heretofore referred to, known at that time as the Sioux City Cavalry, was detailed for service on the frontier, l^ow, when it is remembered that the frontier line in loAva is over one hundred and twenty miles in length it will readily be seen that ,a company of but one hundred men would be very inadequate for the purposes of scouting, to say nothing of looking after frontier defenses.
a
This company was divided into squads and sent to different points along the border. The one assigned to Spirit Lake ar- rived on the evening of the day on which the volunteer party returned from their trip up the Des Moines River. This de- tachment consisted of about thirty men under command of Lieutenant Cassady, and was divided into three parts and sta- tioned at Spirit Lake, Estherville and Okoboji, the Esther- ville squad being in ch.arge of vSergeant Samuel Wade, the Spirit Lake squad in charge of Sergeant A. Kingman and the one for Okoboji being in charge of Corporal G. Robbins.
256
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
From an old pliotograph in possession of Mrs. J. L. I'avis. THE OLD COURTHOUSE.
Immediately after hearing of the attack on the settlements on the Des Moines Kiver and before the arrival of the detach- ment of United States troops nnder Lieutenant Cassady, the settlers gathered .at the old courthouse as being the point least liable to attack and the easiest defended of any place about the lakes. Messengers had been sent out in all directions Avarning the settlers of their danger, and advised them to gather at some central point for mutual protection. The courthouse was the place selected. Here they established a kind of encampment 'and awaited results. This w.as the same day that the first party of scouts left for their trip to the Des Moines. Scouting par- ties were sent out in every direction, but no Indians were seen nor were there anv Indian signs discovered. There were somewhere from twenty-five to forty families represented in the encampment. Taking out the two parties of scouts that went over to the Des Moines, there were not manv able-bodied men left. The scouting about the lakes was done l)v men who had trapped over every foot of the ground and knew it thoroughly. It would be useless to give a list of names of
THE W^EK AT THE COURTHOUSE 257
those who took the direction of .affairs, as there was no regular organization and each one acted on his own judgment. Of course at that time all were in perfect ignorance of the na- ture and extent of the outbreak and were at a loss to- know what course to pursue. All they could do was to keep a sharp look- out and await developments.
During the week's sojourn at the old courthouse many in- cidents occurred, some of them heartrending and pathetic, and others decidedly absurd and ridiculous. Could those in- cidents have been preserved and properly written up, they would have formed a chapter at once instructive, interesting and amusing. The innate selfishness of human nature cropped out where least expected. As is usually the case, those wdio exhibited the most bravado and were the loudest in exploiting their courage were the first to look out for their personal safety, and the last to volunteer when scouts were needed. But human nature is human nature the world over, and if there is anything mean or selfish in a ])prson's makeup it is liound to come to the surface in times like this.
Of course the men eonld stand it all right enough. They were used to roughing it. Most any of them could lie down on the jDrairie where night overtook them and sleep as soundly and sweetly as though on a couch of luxury. But the women and children, that was different. The provisions were scant and of the plainest kind. There were no conveniences for cooking and everything had to be cooked over a campfire. Some member of each family had to make .a trip to the claim every day for provisions, and some didn't find much when they reached there, as this was a season of general scarcity. As to the old courthouse, the walls were up and the roof on and the floors partly laid, and the joists in place for the rest, which were soon covered by the loose lumber there. The stairs were not up, but a plank walk with cleats spiked across
258 DICKIXSON COUNTY - ^OWA
had been l)iiilt for the workmen to carry material t(» the upper story and roof, and this was ntilized Ijy those wlio lived in the npper story. The sleeping arrangements were few and simple. A bnneh of hay and a few blankets in a retired cor- ner were about all of the sleeping accommodations the best conld boast.
Of course sentries were postcnl every night. The men took their two hours on and four off without complaint, .and in fact there were so few of them tliat at first they came on every night, but after the third or f(nirth night they were relieved of that dutv bv the arrival of the soldiers, many of whom had families here. It is difficult to write out in words the vicis- situdes of that memorable week, l)ut those who experienced it will always have a vivid recollection of the week at the court- house.
Soon after the arrival of Lieutenant Cassady with his de- tachment of the Sioux City Cavalry, it was arranged that the settlers should go back to their places, .and the soldiers should adopt a system of scouting such as would preclude the possi- bility of any considerable body of Indians coming in without being discovered. In addition to this, it' was decided to erect a stockade about the courthouse, and to regard it as .a kind of general rendezvous or headquarters where the settlers could gather in case of further trouble. Presc'ott's mill in the Oko- boji Grove was in running order at that time, and quite a number of sawlogs were lying in the yard ready to be cut into hmiber. The mill was taken possession of and the logs rolled in and cut into planks. These planks were twelve feet long and from four ot five inches thick. A trench was dug from twelve to twenty feet from the walls of the courthouse and about three feet deep. The planks were set on end in this trench and strengthened by pinning a piece along the top. Portholes were cut in the proper places in the stockade, and
MANY SETTLERS LEAVE 259
on tli€ whole it was put in pretty good condition for defense. It was while this work was in progress that Lieutenant Cas- sadav and his soldiers arrived, and they assisted in complet- ing it, and when the settlers went back to their claims the soldiers remained in possession and established headquarters there. This was in August, 1862. The courthouse remained a military post in possession of United States troops until ,July, 1865.
The inhabitants moved back to their claims, many of them, however, but temporarily. Many who had been here from two to five years and had endured without .a murmur their full share of the hardships and privations incident thereto, thought they could see "nothing better in the near future, and therefore abandoned what they had or sold it for a mere nomi- nal sum. It was at this time that B. F. Parmenter traded his house and the half block near where the Presbyterian Church now stands to Ethel Ellis for a hundred ratskins.
The proprietors of the town site of Spirit Lake abandoned it and it lay vacant for years, when it was taken and jiroVed up as a private claim. One-half of it was taken by Henry Barkman, one fractional fortv bv Giese Blaekert .and the re- maining three forties by Joseph Currier, who afterwards sold it to a ]\rr. Peck, of Minnesota. This tract was afterwards purchased by ^fr. J. S. Polk, of D'es ]Moines, and is now known ,as the Union Land Company's addition to Sjiirit Lake. Mr. Barkman subsequently made a resurvey of his portion and laid out the town of Spirit Lake according to its present plat and boundaries.
Doctor Prescott, proprietor of the Okoboji town site, sold out for a mere song and moved to Winnebago County, Illinois. O. C. Howe took his family back to J^ewton, after which he enlisted in the army and was appointed Captain of Com- pany L, l^inth Iowa Cavalry; B. E. Parmenter and P. U.
260 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Wheelock moved to BoonesLoro, 'William Barkman went Uaek to Xewtoii, R. Kingman, after selling the Lake View House to Jo Thomas, went to Flovd Countv in this state, and subsequently to the Black Hills ; A. D. Arthur, J. D. Howe and C. Carpenter went to 'Webster Citv^ Leonidas Congleton and Philip Eisling went to Yankton, Dakota, and several others who had been more or less active in county matters up to this time decided they had had enough of pioneering and b.ade good-bye to the frontier. Property of all kinds that could not be moved became valueless.
Of the soldiers, many who enlisted from this county in 1861 had their families and intended leaving them here for a while at least, but after this outbreak most of them moved their families away. Some of them returned after the close of the war, and others remained away permanently. Of course, a soldier's claim, whether by preemption or homestead, could not be disturbed while he w^as in the service, and he had six months to get on it after his discharge.
Up to this time the only two military organizations that had figured in the defense of the frontier were Captain Mar- tin's company of state troops, whose service in 1858 and 1859 w.as noticed in its proper place, and the Sioux City Cavalry, under the command of Captain A. J. Millard. As this com- pany was more intimately connected wdth the defense of the frontier than anv other, and as manv of its members enlisted from this county, it is deserving of more special mention. As be- fore noticed, it was organized in Sioux City in the fall of 1861. A. J. Millard, Captain ; James A. Sawyer, First Lieutenant ; J. T. Copeland, Second Lieutenant, and S. H. Cassady, Or- derlv Sergeant. In the summer of 1862 Lieutenant Sawver
t CD *J
resigned to take command of the ISTorthern Border Bria'ade, when Copeland was promoted to be First Lieutenant and Cas- sadv to be Second Lieutenant. The non-commissioned officers
MORE rAKTlCULAKS OF THE SIOUX CITV CAVALRY 261
were Samuel Wade, Orderly; A. Kingman, First Sergeant; A. Marshall, Second Sergeant; J. W. Stevens, Third Ser- geant; J. W. ISTevins, Fourth Sergeant .and J, H. Morf, Fifth Sergeant; G. W. Lehaurour, First Corporal; J. H. Schuneman, Second Corporal ; G. W. Robbins, Third Corporal ; Archibald Murraj, Fourth Corporal ; Thomas G. White, Fifth Corjioral ; Thomas McElhany, Sixth Corporal ; M. B. Winterringer, Seventh Corporal ; John J. Schlawig, Bugler ; Fred Borsch, Assistant Bugler; William Godfrey, Saddler; X. W. Pratt, Farrier ; J. C. Furber, AVagoner ; ]\r. J. Smith, Quartermas- ter Sergeant. The names of those enlisting in that company from this county have heretofore been given. The detach- ment of Avliieh they formed a part was kept here the greater part of the time from the time of their enlistment to the spring of 1863, when they were detailed for service at Gen- eral Sully's headquarters in his expedition up the Missouri that summer. Judge A. R. Fulton in his interesting book, "Tlie Bed Men of Iowa," pays the folloAving high tribute to this comjDany. .
'Tn this connection it is proper to notice more particularly 'the military organization usder Captain A. J. Millard, known as the Sioux City Cavalry and the services it rendered in protecting the western frontier from the depredations of the Indians. It w.as a company enlisted in pursuance of a special order of the Secretary ofAVar and operated as an independent organization from the fall of 1861 to the spring of 1863. The company was recruited from citizens, most of whom were heads of families residing at Sioux City and the settlements along the Floyd and Little Sioux Rivers u]) to Spirit Lake. While acting as an independent organization, they Avere generally stationed in squads in the principal settlements, including 'hose at Correctionville, Cherokee, Peterson and Spirit Lake. Their valuable and arduous services doubtless contributed largely to securing to the people of northwestern Iowa im- munity from danger during the perilous summer of 1862, when more than eight hundred persong were massacred by the
262 DICKINSON COUNTY*- IOWA
Indians in Minnesota. In the spring of I860 the Sionx (Jity (Cavalry were ordered to rendezvous in Sioux City preparatory to joining an expedition under General Sully against the In- dians in which thev wore detailed as the bodvs'uard of the
t,' t <Zj
General.
"On the third of Septemlier, IfSOS, th^^v participated in the battle of White Stone Hill and distinguished themselves by taking one hundred and thirty-six prisoners. After this bat- tle they were consolidated with the Seventh Iowa Cavalry as Company I. On returning to Sioux City, Captain Millard commanding the company was assigned by General Sully to the command of a sub-district embracing northwestern Iowa and eastern Dakota, with headquarters at Sioux City. On the twenty-second of ]^ovember, 1864, their term of enlistment having expired, they w^ere mustered out of service.
"Referring to this company, General Sully expresses the fol- lowing high compliment: "A better drilled or disci])lined company than the Sioux City Cavalry cannot be found in tlie regular or volunteer service of the United States.' "
CHAPTEK XXI.
GOVERNOR KIRKWOOD TAKES DEEP INTEREST IN FRONTIER MATTERS— SENDS COLONEL INGIIA.M TO
THE FRONTIER HIS REPORT THE LEGISLATURE
CALLED IN SPECIAL SESSION THE FIRST BILL
PASSED PROVIDES FOR THE NORTHERN BORDER BRIGADE JOINT RESOLUTION ASKING GOVERN- MENT PROTECTION ORGANIZATION OF THE
NORTHERN BORDER BRIGADE COLONEL SAWYER
PLACED IN COMMAND GOVERNOR KIRKWOOD AP- POINTS HONORABLE GEORGE L. DAVENPORT TO COLLECT INFORMATION HIS REPORT SPECULA- TIONS AS TO THE CAUSE OF THE OUTBREAK
OPINIONS BY HONORABLE GEORGE L. DAVENPORT
GENERAL SULLY JUDGE FLANDRAU AND
OTHERS.
EEVIOUS to the ^Sfinnesota outbreak Governor Kirk- wood had issued a call convening the Iowa legislature i)i special session for the purpose of making provisions for jdacing Iowa's quota of troops under the last call of the President, and it was during the interval l)etween this call and the time of the meeting of the legislature that the trou- bles in Minnesota occurred. The Governor at once realized the necessity of increasing the frontier defenses, and in order that he might have as full and clear an understanding of the matter as possible, on the twenty-ninth of August, without waitino' for the meeting of the legislature he had summoned, he appointed S. E. Ingham, of Des ]\roines, special .agent, with instructions to proceed at once to the frontier and make
264 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
a thoroiigli investigation of the situation and report to liini as soon as practicable.
"August 29, 1862. "S. R. Ingham^ Esq.
"Sir: I am informed there is probable danger of an attack by hostile Indians on the inhabitants of" the northwestern portion of our state. Arms and powder will be sent you at Fort Dodge. Lead and caps will be sent with you. I hand you an order on the Auditor of State for one thousand dollars.
"You will proceed at once to Fort Dodge, and to such other points there as you may deem proper. Use the arms, ammunition and money placed at your disposal in such man- ner as your judgment may dictate as best to promote the ob- ject in view, to-wit: the j)rotection of the inhabitants of the frontier. It would be well to communicate with Captain Millard commanding the company of mounted men raised for United States service at Sioux City. * * * XJgp your dis- cretion in all things and exercise any power I could exercise if I were present according to your best discretion.
"Please report to me in writing.
"Very resj)ectfully your obedient servant,
"Samuel J. Kikkwood/"
Colonel Ingham at once proceeded to make a tour of the frontier settlements and reported the result of his investiga- tions to Governor Kirkwood. His report is too lengthy to be reproduced in full, but a few extracts from it are given herewith.
"To His Excellency, S. J. Kirkwood, Governor of Iowa : I have the honor to report that in compliance with your in- structions I at once proceeded to the northern border of our state to ascertain the extent of the supposed difficulties and do the needful for the protection of our frontier settlements should circumstances warrant or demand. I visited Dickin- son, Emmet, Palo Alto, Humboldt, Kossuth and Webster Counties. Found many of the inhabitants in a high state of excitement and laboring under constant fear of an attack by Indians. Quite a number of families were leaving their homes and moving into the more thickly settled portions of the state.
COL. INGHAM SENT TO THE FRONTIER '■2G5
''This fooling', however, seemed to he more intense and to rnn higher in the more inland and remote counties from the border than in the border counties themselves. In Emmet and Kossuth, both border counties, I had the settlers called together in order tliat I might learn from them their views and wishes as to what ought to be done for their safety, or rather wh.at was necessary to satisfy and quiet their fears and apprehensions. They s.aid all they wanted or deemed neces- sary for the protection of the northern frontier was a small force of mounted men stationed on the east and west forks of the Des Moines River to act in concert with the United States troops then stationed at Spirit T>ake, but that this force must be made up of men such as could be chosen from amongst themselves, who were familiar with the countrv and had been engaged in hunting and trapping for years .and were more or less familiar wdth the habits and customs of the Indians, one of which men would be worth half a dozen such as the state had sent there on one or two former occasions. In a small force of this kind they would have confidence, but would not feel safe with a much larger force of young and inexperienced men such as are usually raised in the more central portions of the state. I at once authorized a company to be raised in Emmet, Kossuth, Humboldt and Palo Alto Counties. Within five days forty men were enlisted, held their election for ofii- cers, were mustered in, furnished with arms and ammunition and placed on duty. I authorized them to fill up the com- pany to eighty men if necessity should demand such an addi- tion to the force.
''At Spirit Lake, in Dickinson County, I found some forty men stationed under command of Lieutenant Sawyers of Cap- tain ^Millard's Company of Sioux City Cavalry in the United States service. From the best information I could obtain, I deemed this a sufficient force and therefore took no action to j'ncrease the protection at this point further than to furnish the settlers with thirty stands of arms and a small amount of ammunition, for which I took a bond as hereinafter stated."
Here follows the details of taking bonds and distributing arms and ammunition which are too lengthy and not of suf- ficient importance for repetition. The report closes as fol- lows:
266 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
"Having done all that seemed necessary for the protection of the settlers of the more exposed of the northern border coun- ties, I returned to Fort Dodge on the eighth d.ay of Septem- ber, intending to proceed at once to Sioux City and make all necessary arrangements for the protection of the settlements on the northwestern border. At that ppint I was informed that the legislature, then in extra session,' had passed a bill providing for the raising of troops for the protection of our borders against hostile Indians. I therefore deemed it best to report myself to you for further instructions, which I did on the tenth of September."
The legislature convened in pursuance of the governor's call and the first measure passed was "A bill for an act to pro- vide for the protection of the northwestern frontier of Iowa from hostile Indians." The first section of the bill is as fol- lows:
"Section 1. Be it enacted hy the General Assembly of the State of loiva: That the governor of the state of Iowa be and is hereby authorized and required to raise a volunteer force in the state of Iowa from the counties most convenient to the northwestern border of said state of not less than five hundred mounted men, .and such other force as may be deemed neces- sary, to be mustered into service by a person to be appointed by the governor at such place as he may designate, to be sta- tioned at various points in the northwestern counties of said state in such numbers in a body as he m,ay deem best, for the protection of that portion of the state from hostile Indians at the earliest practicable moment."
The balance of the bill relates to the enlisting, mustering in and equipping and arming the force thus created. This bill was introduced, rim the gauntlet of the committees, passed both houses and was signed by the governor inside of five days, which, considering its magnitude and importance, was remarkably quick work. While the above bill w.as pend- ing, the legislature also passed a joint resolution asking aid from the general government, of which the following is the preamble :
LEGISLATION FOR THE NORTHERN BORDER BRIGADE 267
"Whereas^ for several months past the Indians residing .along the northwestern lines of the state of Iowa, in Minne- sota and Dakota, and in the country in that vicinity have ex- hibited strong evidence of hostility to the border settlers and have committed depredations upon the property of these set- tlers, and have finally broken out into open hostility, not only committing gross acts of plunder, but have committed the most cruel barbarities upon the defenseless citizens residing in the southern and southwestern border of Minnesota, mur- dering with unparalleled cruelty a large number of these citi- zens and their families in the immediate vicinitv of our state, burning their houses and destroying their property ; and,
"'Whereas, it is believed from the general uprising of these Indians and the great extent of their depredations and from various circumstances relating thereto that they are incited to these acts of cruelty by evil disposed whites from our ene- mies and that a general Indian war is impending, and,
"Whereas, the people .along the borders of Iowa and Min- nesota are deserting their homes and fleeing to places of safety in the interior of the state and entirely abandoning their homes and property for places of safety, therefore. Resolved, bv the General Assemblv of the State of Iowa," etc.
The resolution was an earnest appeal to the general govern- ment for immediate assistance. This bill and resolution were approved by the Governor on the ninth of September, and Colonel Ingham reported to the Governor the next day.
The Governor immediately issued General Orders No. 1, to- gether with the following additional instructions, to Colonel Ingham :
"Executive Office, Iowa.
"Des Moines, September 13, 1862.
"S. R. Ingham, Esq. Sir : You are intrusted with the or- ganization of the forces provided by law for the defense of the northwestern frontier, and with furnishing them with sub- sistence and forage during and after their organization, also with the posting of the troops raised at such points as are best calculated to effect the object proposed until the election of the officer who will command the entire force and generally with the execution of the orders issued of this date in connection with this force. It is impossible to foresee the contingencies that may arise rendering necessary a change in these orders
268 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
or the prompt exercise of powers not therein contained, and delay for the jinrpose of consnltinc; me might result disastrons- iV. In order to avoid these results as far as possible, I hereby confer upon you all I myself have in this regard. You nniy change, alter, modify or add to the orders named as in your sound discretion you may deem best. You may make such other and further orders as the exigencies of the case niav, in your judgment, render necessary. In short, you may do all things necessary for the protection of the frontier as fully as I could do if I were personally present, and did the same. The first object is the security of the frontier ; the second, that this object be eifected as economically ,as is consistent witli its prompt and certain attainment. * * *
'"Very respectfully your obedient servant,
"Samuel J. Kirkwood.''
The following extract from General Orders No. 1 will ex- plain the manner of raising and organizing the force.
"First. The number of companies that will be received for service under the act to provide for the protection of the northwestern frontier of Iowa from the hostile Indians, passed at the extra session of 1862, and the acts amendatorv thereto is as follows, viz : One to be raised at Sioux City, one at Deni- son, Crawford County, one at Fort Dodge, one at Webster City, and one now stationed at Chain Lakes and Estherville.
"Second. These companies sh.all contain not less than forty nor more than eighty men each. They will elect the company officers allowed and in the manner prescribed by hiw. As soon as company elections are held, certificates of the result must be sent to the Adjutant General for commissions. After being mustered and sworn in they will ]H'oceed, on a day to be fixed by S. R. Ingham, to vote .at their several places of rendezvous by ballot for a Lieutenant Colonel to command the ^\dlole. * * " The highest number of votes cast for any one candidate shall elect.
"Fourth. The points at Avhich the troo|)s will be stationed will in the first place be fixed by Mr. Ingham and afterwards bj the Lieutenant Colonel elect. * * *
"Seveni^h. Each man will be required to furnish his own horse and equipments. Subsistence and forage will be fur- nished by the state. The same pay will be allowed for this service as is now allowed for like service by the United States. "Samuel J. Kikkwood, G<ivernor of Iowa."
COL. Ingham's second report 269
We will now give extracts from Colonel Ingham's second re- port to Governor Kirk wood.
"^'In pursuance of these orders and instructions, I proceeded to Tort Dodge and mustered and swore into the service of the state for nine months, unless sooner discharged, the company raised at that place, first inspecting the horses and equip- ments and having them appraised. I then proceeded with due dispatch to Webster City, Denison and Sioux Citj, and in like manner mustered in the companies raised at those places. ^!- * * These four companies, and the one that had previously been stationed at Chain Lakes and Estherville, were all that.w^ere authorized under your General Orders and mustered in all about two hundred and fifty men, rank and file. As each of the companies were sworn in, marching orders were at once given to the commanding officers and such other orders as seemed advisable for the purpose of carrying out the objects in view, as expressed in your orders and in- structions. One company was stationed at Chain Lakes, one at Estherville, and portions of companies at each of the fol- lowing points, to-wit: Ocheyedan, Peterson, Cherokee, Ida, S'ac City, Correctionville, West Fork, Little Sioux and ]\Iel- bourne, thus forming in conjunction with the portion of Cap- tain irillard's company stationed at Sioux City and Spirit Lake, a complete line of communication between Chain Lakes and Sioux City.
"After consulting the feelings and wishes of the settlers along the line, and after a careful survey of the ground it was determined to erect blockhouses and stockades at the fol- lowing points, to-wit : Correctionville, Cherokee, Peterson, Estherville and Chain Lakes. At Spirit Lake a stockade had already been built around the courthouse by Lieutenant Saw- yers. The courthouse being constructed of brick, made a work of a very permanent ,and durable character. In making these locations I was, of course, governed in a great degree by the desires and wishes of the settlers at the expense of w^hat might be regarded by military men as a proper location in a strict military point of view. In conceding these points to them, I assumed that inasmuch as the state was constructing the works solely for their use and benefit, if the settlers them- selves were satisfied, certainly the state would be. At the points above indicated are the principal settlements on our
270 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
extreme northwestern border and tliey are the only ones at which it was necessary to construct works as contemplated in your orders."
Then follows the details of building- the stockades and fur- nishing supplies which are too lengthy for :peproduction here. Further on he continues:
"In accordance with your orders, I fixed Friday, the seventh of ISTovember, as the day on which the several companies should hold .an election for Lieutenant Colonel to command the whole. At the election so held, James A. Sawyers, First Lieutenant of Captain Millard's company, was chosen. And permit me to say that an excellent selection w^as made. In my opinion no better man could have been found for this service." * * *
In addition to the active efforts made by the Governor and legislature in providing an armed force for the protection of the frontier settlements, Governor Kirkwood made special efforts to obtain the most reliable information possible as to the strength of the hostile Indians, their number, equipment and everything possible connected with their movements. To that end he dispatched BDonorable George L. Davenport, a man well informed in all matters connected with the northwestern Indians, to proceed at once to Minnesota, and through the .agencies and authorities there, to gain all the information pos- sible and report at once. Below are given extracts from his report.
"To His Excellency, Governor Kirkwood. Dear Sir: I proceeded to Burlington and delivered your communication to Honorable J. W. Grimes, and in consultation with him he advised me to proceed at once to Minnesota and ascertain the extent of the Indian outbreak. He gave me letters of intro- duction to His Excellency, Governor Ramsey, and to Honorable Commissioner Dole. Upon my arrival at St. Paul, I called on Governor Riamsey, who gave me all of the information in his power. He informed me that the outbreak with the Sioux is of the most serious character, .and the massacre of the men, women and children of the frontier settlements the largest
INVESTIGATION BY HON. GEO. L. DAVENPOKT 271
known in the history of the country. Oyer six hundred are known to be killed and oyer one hundred women and children are in the hands of the sayages as prisoners. The Indians are very bold and defiant, repeatedly attacking the forts and troops sent out against them. They haye plundered many stores and farm houses and haye driven off a very large number of cattle and horses. The Indians continue to attack the settle- ments almost every week, keeping up a constant alarm among the people. It is estimated that over five thousand persons have left their homes and all of their property, causing im- mense loss and suffering."
Then follows the details of arrangements made by Gov- ernor Ramsey for the protection of the Minnesota frontier. The report of his Minnesota tour closes as fojlows :
"I am much alarmed in regard to the safety of the settle- ment on the northwestern border of our state. I think they are in imminent danger of an attack at any moment, and will be in constant alarm and danger during the coming winter. As the Indians are driveni back from the eastern part of Minne- sota they will fall hack towards the Missouri slope and will make inroads upon our settlements for supplies of food and plunder. They are much exposed to attacks from parties of Sioux passing from the Missouri River to Minnesota. * * *
"Yours respectfully,
"George L. Davexport.
"Davenport, Iowa, September 17, 1862."
After Mr. Davenport's return from his Minnesota trip, Governor Ivirkwood sent him west on a tour through I^ebraska 'and Dakota. The result of his observations and investiga- tions on this trip were to the effect that the strength of the Indian forces and the number of warriors they could place in the field had been largely overestimated. After giving the location .and estimated strength of several bands on the Mis- souri River, and detailing the measures there taken for de- fense, he closes that part of his report as follows :
"They have erected forts or blockhouses at Yankton, the seat of government, at Elkhorn and Vermilion Rivers,
272 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
in which are .a small force of volunteers, and with the troops your excellency has stationed between Sioux City and Spirit Lake, along the northern part of this state, our citizens need not apprehend any danger from the Indians on tliat or any other part of our frontier."
In discussing the causes that led to the outbreak he closes as follows :
"T am of the opinion the cause of dissatisfaction among many of the tribes of Indians is caused mainly l)v the general government paying the annuities to the Indians in goods instead of money. Year before last his money bought a great many goods. Goods were cheap. Last year he gets less. He is dissatisfied. He thinks the agent is cheating him. This year he gets onU' half as many. Xow he feels sore. He thinks he is wronged, although the government agent explains to him that cotton and wool and other things have gone up in price and that his money does not buy as much as before. It is difficult to make the Indian understand or believe it, but pav him his dollars and then he knows the government has fulfilled its part. * * *
(SigTied) "George L. Davkxpokt."
General Sully, who led the several expeditions against the Indians, gave it as his opinion that the cause of the outljre.ak at the time it occurred was that the agent attempted to pay the money portion of the annuities in greenbacks instead of gold, as had formerly been done. Lhis was the first tlie In- dians had seen of the greenbacks, and they indignantly refused them. They were afterwards exchanged for gold, but not in time to prevent the trouble.
Another theory is that emissaries from the Confederates were sent among the Indians to incite them to deeds of vio- lence and insurrection. Judge Fl.andrau savs there is no foundation for any such suspicion. He further writes at greater length and more in detail about the matter. He says:
"Much dissatisfaction was engendered among the Indians by occurrences taking place at the time of the negotiating of
CAUSES OF THE OUTBREAK 273
these treaties. ^ * " This dissatisfaction ^vas increased rather than diniiiiish('(l hv the snbseqneiit administration of the treaties under the general government. * * * The provisions of the treaties for periodical payments of money and goods and other benefits, although carried out with sub- stantial honesty, failed to meet the exaggerated expec- tations of the Indians. * * * Xothing special has been discovered to have taken place to which the out- break can be immediately attributed. It was charged to emissaries from the Confederates in the South, but there was no foundation for these surmises. The rebellion of the south- ern states was at its height. Large bodies of troops were l)eing sent out of Minnesota. The payment due in June or July, 1862, was much delayed. The Indians were hungry and angry. ■^ * * Some of tlie chiefs were ambitious and thought it a good opportunity to regain their lost country and exalt themselves in the eyes of their people. This combination of circumstances operating upon a deepseated hatred of the whites, in my opinion, precipitated the outbreak at the time it occur- red."
Another theory, and one that was entertained by many who understood the subject best, wfis that the Indians construed the failure of the authorities to capture and punish Tnkjiadutah and the remainder of his band for their part in the outrages of 1857 as an evidence of weakness and cow.ardice on their part. It is said that Little Crow boastfully declared "that if Inkpadutah with his fifteen followers could massacre a whole settlement and create a ])anic that drove thousands from their homes and escape unpunished, he, nund)ering his warriors l)y thousands, could massacre and expel all the whites from the Minnesota Valley." ISTow it is more than probable that the wily chieftain, seeing that the men were being sent out of the state by thousands, really imagined himself strong enough to recover his lost hunting grounds .and re-establish his waning prestige and power. Again, may not the cause have been the inexorable logic of events ; the inunutable decree of fate ? Mav not the whole affair have l>een one link in the great chain
274 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
of fatalities which has followed the native tribes from the time the whites first set foot on the shores of ISTew England, and will continue to follow them until the race becomes extinct? Who knows ?
More space has been given to these official reports than w,as at first intended, but there is no other wav in which so accu- rate an understanding of the situation and condition of affairs on the frontier at that time can be had as by these reports. They were written on the ground at the time by some of the best known and level headed men in the state, and their statements will at once be taken at their face value. In perusing these reports the reader will not fail to notice that Spirit Lake .and the settlements in Dickinson County were the most exposed of any on the Iowa frontier, being at the northwestern angle of the line of posts from Chain Lakes to Sioux City. On the other hand, there was no point on the entire line where less excitement prevailed and less needless fear and apprehension were felt than in the vicinity of the lakes. Colonel Ingham noticed this fact when he was here, and mentions it in his report as follows: ''This feeling (re- ferring to the general feeling of fright and apprehension then prevailing), however, seemed to be more intense and to run higher in the more inland and remote counties from the bor- der than the border counties themselves."
It will be noticed tliat the events which have taken so much space to relate were crowded into a small portion of time in the fall of 1862. By the time that winter fairly set in, the stockades at the different posts were completed and occupied by the requisite number of 'troops and a system of scouting and carrying dispatches put into operation. Doubtless this prompt action of the authorities, state and national, prevented any further depredations, and it certainly inspired the set- tlers with .a greater feeling of security.
CHAPTER XXII.
EXPEDITIONS AGAINST THE INDIANS SULLy's
'expedition HIS FORCE LEAVES SIOUX CITY AND
FOLLOW UP THE MISSOURI EXPECT TO FORM A
JUNCTION WITH SIBLEy's FORCES AT APPLE RIVER
ON ARRIVING THERE FIND SIBLEY HAS BEEN
THERE AND TURNED BACK BATTLE OK WHITE
STONE HILL THE RETURN TO SIOUX CITY SIB-
LEy's COMMAND MOVE ACROSS MINNESOTA
FIGHT THREE BATTLES BEFORE REACHING THE
MISSOURI ON REACHING THE MISSOURI FIND
THAT SULLY HAS NOT YET ARRIVED REST TWO
DAYS AND THEN TURN BACK THE EXPEDITIONS
OF 1864 RELIEF BY CAPTAIN FISK EXPEDITION
TO devil's LAKE IN 1865.
X TUB summer of 1863 two expeditions were sent by the United States government against the Sioux. One of these expeditions was fitted out in Sioux City under the command of General Alfred Sully^ and proceeded up the Missouri River with the intention and expectation of forming a junction with the other which was fitted out at St. Paul, under the command of General H. H. Sibley, and went across the country to the upper Missouri, expecting to meet Gen- eral Sully upon their arrival there. But the two forces failed to connect. General Sully's predecessor, General Cook, although a good man, had had no experience in fitting out expeditions of this kind, and General Sully found on his arrival to assume the command that many things that were absolutely essential had been overlooked. These defects it took time to remedy. At that time there were no railroads west of the Mississippi,
276 DICKINSON COUNTY ■ IOWA
and for supplies they had to depend on the navigation of the Missouri, and that was always a very uncertain contingency. This season it lUMvod uKtre so than nsnal, as it was verv drv.
After many vexatious delays, the expedition left Sioux City some time in June with the expeetafion of forming a junc- tion with Sihley's command about the last of July or the iirst of August. Sully's force was made up of the Sixth loAv.a Cavalry, the jSTebraska Second, a battery of four pieces, and the Sioux City Cavalry, and numbered about three thou- sand. The summer M'as one of the dryest on record. In that country of tall grass and running streams, the horses often suffered for want of food and water. The vegetation w,as absolutely burned up and many of the streams had gone dry. It was not the design of the General to follow the river in its windings, luit to cut across from one bend to another, in order to shorten the distance. In doing this he was sometimes compelled to make forced marches of from twenty to thirtv miles to the river for water. Most of the small lakes in that region had gone dry and those that had not were so impreg- nated with alkali that the water could not be used. The water of the Missouri River is known to be thick with tlie light, yellow sand that forms the bluffs through whicli it rnns. Up- on boiling the water this sand settles to the bottom and the water remains remarkably clear and pnre. It has to l)e treated in this way to make it fit for cooking purposes.
The expedition had for a guide .a full blooded Blackfoot Indian by the name of 'Tool Dog," assisted by a French half- breed by the name of La Fromboise. Whether this was the same Joe La Fromboise that piloted Captain Bee's expedition from Fort Ridgley to Jackson in 1857 is not fully known, but it is more th.an probable that he was. The expedition proceeded up the river as rapidly as possible, considering the obstacles they encountered. As they neared the place appoint-
SULLY's expedition up the MISSOURI 277
ed for making- the junction with Sibley's forces, they learned through the Indian scouts that Sibley had been there, and not finding Sully's column there, had turned back. In order to test the truth of this rej)ort, the General sent forward a de- tachment under the lead of the Indian giiide to investigate the facts, while the main body went into camp on Long Lake Creek and remained there until the messengers returned.
Upon their return with the information that the Indians had crossed the Missouri and that Sibley had taken the back track for St. Paul, it became necessarv for Sullv to clianee his plans. Most of the officers believed that since the Indians bad crossed the Missouri, it would be necessary for the trooj)S to do the same if they expected to meet them, but when the matter was suggested to the Indian guide, he would only shake his head, give an expressive grunt and j^oint to the east; accordingly, when General Sully put his column in motion, he acted on the guide's advice and moved in that direction until the third of September, when he encountered a large body of Indians in camp at White Stone Hill.
These were in part the same that General Sibley had driven .across the Missouri River a month before, but had crossed Ijack heavily reinforced from the wilder tribes on the other side. They had heon watching Sibley closely, and knew all the details of his movements and thought when he turned Ijack on the first of August that they had nothing farther to fear, and so they went to work securing their winter supply of buifalo meat and skins, in which they were phenomenally successful. Thev had heard nothinc; of General Sullv's ex- pedition u}) the river, and were wdiolly ignorant of his move- ments.
Sully broke camp at Long Lake Creek either the first or second day of September. Soon after changing his course and starting east, unmistakable signs of the close proximity of
278 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
' Indians were abundant and growing more so. Carcasses of recently slain Lnflt'aloes were encountered in increasing num- bers, and everything indicated that a large force was near. The guides are reported to have told the officers that in all probability the Indians were at one" of three different j)oints curing their meat. Acting on this theory, the General sent forward two detachments, with orders for one to take the right and the other the left, and advance rapidly, while he with the main body would move more deliberately.
This was the order of advance on the third of September. Major House, of the Sixth Iowa Cavalry, had command of one of the advance battalions. His force numbered about three hundred. About two P. M. they sighted the Indians, some six or eight lodges being in sight. Here the guides were in favor of halting and sending back for reinforcements, but the Major seeing no signs of a large force, continued to move forward, until, on reaching the crest of a ridge, he saw spread out before him a camp of four to five hundred lodges.
Bv this time he was discovered bv the Indians, and it was too late to retreat, and the only thing for him to do w.as to halt his men and assume a defensive position and be mighty quick about it. He had no time to lose. The Indians outnumbered him at least seven to one, and had they charged at once, he might have met the same fate that overtook Custer a dozen years later. At any rate there would have been a bloody battle. But the Indians saw that House's force was not for- midable, and they were in no hurry. Tliev had a "palaver" with the scouts and interpreter, and when told there was a much larger force near, they didn't believe it, but all the same, when House sent his messengers back for reinforcements, some Indian runners followed them to find out whether they had been told the truth or not. On coming in sight of Sully's force .and noting its strength, they hurried back to report.
BATTLE OF WHITE STONE HILL 279
It was between four and five o'clock P. M. when the mes- sengers sent back by Bouse reached headquarters. The force had gone into camp and were just ready to partake of their cofi^ee and hard tack when the messenger galloped up to head- quarters to report. The bugles immediately sounded "Boots and Saddles/' the boys sprung for their horses, and in an in- credibly short space of time were taking a headlong gallop toward the Indian rendezvous, leaving a sufficient force to guard the camp. The distance was not far from ten miles and was covered by the troops in about an hour. The Indian runners got in just ahead of them, and the Indian lodges came down all at once as though a cyclone had struck them. Up to this time they believed Major House's force was all they \vould have to contend with, and they felt strong enough to resist him.
The General's plan was to send one force around them to the right and another to the left, with orders to form a junc- tion in their rear, while he with the reserve would remain on the other side. It was not the General's intention to l)ring on an engagement at once, but, if possible, to secure the sur- render of the Indians without a fight. While he was nego- tiating to that end, the Nebraska Second precipitated an en- gagement by firing without orders, ,and in an instant all was confusion. La Fromboise, the interpreter, was caught between the lines when the firing commenced, and he had a serious time getting back to headquarters. It was about sundown when the firing began, and it was kept up vigorously on both sides until the gathering darkness put an end to the conflict. The men remained in position and stood holding their horses by the bits all night.
About ten o'clock the Indians made a rush and succeeded in breaking through the lines of the Sixth Iowa, and a large number effected their escape, while the balance, consisting of
280 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
.a motley crowd of Indians, squaws and papooses, surrendered. The camp, with all their tepees, bedding and provisions, fell into the hands of the troops and were destroyed next day.
The loss on the part of the troops was twenty-two killed and fifty wounded. The Indian loss- is unknown, but w^as very severe. Two hundred and twenty-five dead bodies were counted in one ravine. Mnrinu' tlu' nioht the General sent bagk a surgeon with a guard to the main camp for much needed medical supplies. This party on their way lost their course and wandered about all that night, the next day and the next night in a vain endeavor to find the camp. Finally, despairing of that, they determined to reach the Missouri River if possible, and "taking a due west course," they soon came into camp, much to their own surprise and to the relief of the General, who was l^eginning to feel some anxiety about them, fearing that possibly they might have been picked off by some stray body of savages.
The battle of White Stone Hill has never been given the prominence by historians that its importance would seem to demand, but the reason is not far to seek. By comparing dates it will be found that this engagement was fought about two weeks previous to the great battle of Chickamauga, and by the time the news of it reached civilization, the country was in a state of wild excitement over that event, and for the time being, the single division fighting savages on the northwestern border was almost forgotten. But for all that, the battle of White Stone Hill ranks as one of the decisive battles of the country. The importance of a battle does not depend on the numbers engaged, or the losses sustained, but on the far reaching results that follow, and it was at White Stone Hill that the power of the Sioux nation for aggressive warfare was effectually broken.
RESULTS OF THE BATTLE 281
'Tis true that Sibley had driven them out of Minnesota and across the Missouri River, but he was no sooner out of sight than they crossed back again apparently just as strong as ever. But from Sully's crushing defeat they never recov- ered. The burning of their camp and the destruction of their camp supplies and provisions occurred the next day, and is described by those who witnessed it as a very exciting affair, and was accompanied by many tragic and highly dramatic incidents, which, if properly written up, would make a decid- edly sensational chapter.
After the affair at White Stone Hill, General Sully was ordered by the War Diepartment to build a fort on tlie upper Missouri to be called Fort Sully. Accordingly he selected the site and commenced operations. The troops did not take very kindly to the work and at first the progress was decided- ly slow. The boys claimed they didn't enlist to build forts, but the Greneral pointedly informed them th.at they would have to complete tha:t fort, if it took all winter, before they would be allowed to go down the river. When they saw that fur- ther kicking was useless, they took hold in earnest, and in a short time the fort was comjDleted and the column started down the river, arriving in Sioux City some time early in Decem- ber. Sergeant A. Kingman, of the Sioux City Cavalry, was in command of the squad that did the first day's work in the erection of Fort Sully.
In tlie meantime, Sibley's command, which was to have formed a junction with Sully's on the upper Missouri, ren- dezvoused at Camp Pope, about twenty-five luiles above Fort Eidgley, and near the Lower Agency. It was Sibley's original intention to make his trip by way of Devil's Lake, as the rem- nant of Little Crow's followers were supposed to be rendez- voused there. On the seventh of June, 1863, General Sibley .arrived at the point of departure. His force consisted of
282 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
about foiii' tlioiisaiid incii, tliree-foiirths of whom were infan- try, and eiiilit ])iecert of artillery, fullv c(]iiij>])tMl -aud otliccrcMl, and accompanied bv two hnndred and twenty-five ^ix-mnle wagons. They broke camp and started west ont the sixteenth of Jnne. Of conrse the Indians knew- of the exjDtcdition being sent against them, and fell back. At first their re- treat was toward tlie British line, bnt later tliev ('liange(l their conrse in the dir(M'ti<>n of the nppei' Missonri. When the General hecame satistictl of this change, of conrse he altan- doned his idea of going tn Devil's Lake, and decided to push forward ,as ra])idly as possible toward the Missonri.
He therefore formed a permanent jiost at Camp Atchison, abont fifty miles sontheast of Devil's Lake, where he left all of his sick and broken down men and a ])ortion of his train, with a guard to defend them if attacked. TTe then started west on the twentieth of July, with ahont fifteen hnn- dred infantry, six hnndred cavalry and his artillery, and twenty-five days' rations. Lie crossed the James River on the twenty-second, and on the twenty-fourth reached the vicinity of Big Monnd. H'ere the scouts reported large bodies of Indians, with Bed Plume and Standing Buffalo among them. The forces of the Indians were re])<»rted much lai'ger than they really were, and the General corralled his train and threw up breastworks. Abont three B. ^L an .attack Avas made by the Indians. The battle was foni>-lit in the midst of a terrific thunder storm. Colonel ^IcPhaibs sabre was knocked from his hand by lightning, and one ])ri\ate was kille<l by the same force. The Indians wcu-e defeated with ,a loss of abont eighty. Judge Flandrau. writing of this engagement, says: ^'The bat- tle of Big ]\round was a decided victory and counted heavily in the scale of advantage, as it pnt the savages on the run for a i^lace of safety ami materially disabled them from j^rose- cutinu' further hostilities."
SIBLEYS EXPEDITION ACROSS MINNESOTA 283
On the morniiiG: of the twentv-sixth the command a2;aiu moved forw.ard, and about noon the scouts reported Indians, and soon large bodies of them became visible. In this action, as in the former oiie, the Indians were the attacking parties, juakiug three separate and distinct attacks on Sibley's foi'ces, but beinii beaten off each time thev fiaallv withdrew. Sib- lev's men immediately threw up earthworks to guard against a night surprise. This action is known as the battle of Dead T^uffalo Lake. Jud<»e Flandrau further s.avs :
"The General was now convinced that the Indians were going tcnvard the Alissouri with the pur{)ose of putting that river be- tween themselves and his command, and, expecting General Sully's force to be there to interce])t them, he was determined to jmsh them on as rapidly as possil)le, inflicting all the damage he could in their flio-ht. * * * J^^^ ]o^v water delaved Sullv to such an extent that he failed to arrive in time, and as the sequel will show, they succeeded in crossing the river before Sibley could overtake them."
On the twenty-eighth of July, the Indians were again seen, and this time in immemse nundjers. They had evi<leutly been largely reinforced from the other side of the river. They made a hot fight of it, l)Ut were finally defeated at all ])oints and fled in panic and rout to the Missouri. They were hotly ])ursued, and on the twenty-ninth the troops crossed Apple Greek and, pushing on, struck the Missouri the thirtieth. The Indians had succeeded in crossing with their families, but in a very demoralized condition. It was at this point that the two forces were to have formed a junction. Had Sully arrived in time to prevent the Indians from crossing the river, the comjflete destruction or capture of the savage forces would have been the result. This delay was no fault of Sully's, but was caused by insurmountable obstacles.
This battle was known as the battle of Stony Lake, and in point of nund)ers engaged and the stubbornness with which
284 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
it was contested, it was one of the most important Indian battles of the war. The Indians having crossed the Mis- souri, further pursuit was abandoned and General Sibley, after resting his men a couple of days, started on his return march the first day of August. "" ,
This campaign practically ended the Indian occupation of the state of Minnesota, but the United States authorities decided not to let the Indian question rest on the results of the operations of 1863, which left the Indians in possession of the country beyond the Missouri, rightly conjecturing that they would construe their escape into a victory. Consequent- ly two expeditions were planned for the summer of 1864, sim- ilar to those of the previous year, but; this time both expedi- tions were under the immediate command of General Sully. The Sioux City Cavalry, the company to which most of those enlisting from here belonged, which had been detailed for duty at the General's headquarters the previous year, were not made a part of the force on this expedition^ from the fact that their time would expire and the men be entitled to their discharffe before the force would return to Sioux Citv in the fall. They were accordingly stationed at Vermilion.
The Iowa brigade in the expedition of 1864 was composed of the Sixth I(nva Cavalry, a regiment of Kansas infantry and Brackett's Battalion of Minnesota ( Javalry. This brigade was under the immediate command of General Sullv. The ^Minnesota brigade was conqxised of the Eighth Minnesota Infantry mounted on ponies, the Second Minnesota Cavalry and the Third Minnesota Battery. This brigade was under the command of General Sibley, but after the two brigades formed a junction at the crossing of the ]\Iissouri, Sully as- sumed tlie command of the entire force. The crossing was made on boats that belonoed to Sullv's command.
THE EXPEDITION OF 1864 285
The Minnesota force left Fort Snelling on the first day of June and moved westward without incident or accident, reach- ing the Missouri on the first of July, where they found Sully, who had arrived with his force the day before. Sully, with the Iowa forces, came up the river as before, and after form- ing a junction with the column from Minnesota, crossed to the other side of the Missouri. The column was immediately directed toward the Cannon Ball River, where eighteen hun- dred lodges were reported to be encamped, but the Indians fled before the approach of the troops. On the second of August the Indians were found in large numbers on Big Knife River in the Bad Lands. These Indians had murdered a party of Idaho miners the year before, and had given aid and com- fort to the Minnesota refugee Indians. They were immediate- ly attacked and after a spirited engagement were defeated with severe loss.
On the next day, August third, the command moved west through the Bad Lands, and just .as they emerged from this terribly rough country, they were sharply attacked by ,a very large body of savages. This fight lasted through two days and nights and was stubbornly contested, but the Indians were finally defeated at all points .and fied in confusion. Gen- eral Sully then crossed to the west side of the Yellowstone, where he found two government steamers awaiting him wath ample supplies. On this trip he located Forts Rice, Stephen- son and Berthold. On reaching Fort Rice, he found that considerable anxietv was felt there in regard to the fate of Captain Fisk, who, with fifty men, had left the fort as an escort to a train of Idaho emigrants, and had been attacked one hundred .and eighty miles west of the fort and had been compelled to intrench. He had sent for reinforcements. General Sully sent him three hundred men^ who extricated him from his dangerous position. Another expedition was
286 DICKINSON COUNTY - loWA
sent out under Sully to Devil's Lake in 1865. Since that time the Indian troubles have been beyond the Missouri.
In referring to the Indian war of 18(12 and I860, Judge Elandrau writes as follows:
"In the numbers of Indians engaged,, together with their superior lighting qualities, their armament and the country oc- cupied by tliem, it ranks .among the most important of the In- dian wars fought since the first settlement of the country on the Atlantic coast, but when viewed in the light of the nmnber of settlers and others massacred, the amount of property des- • troved and the horrible atrocities committed bv the sav.a2:es, it far surpasses them all."
More time and space has been given to the Indian war in Minnesota than was at first intended, but it seems impossible to give an intelligent idea of the exposed condition of the Iowa frontier in any other way. Judge Flandrau's articles- have been freely quoted. They are regarded as the most re- liable and readable of anything on the subject. Most of the facts relating to the Minnesota campaign have been compiled from his works.
CHAPTER XXIII.
CLOSE OF MILITARY OPERATIONS ON THE FRON- TIER A SUMMARY THE FUR BUSINESS TRAP- PING AND GATHERING FUR EARLY LITERARY
SOCITIES THE OKOBOJI LITERARY LEAGUE
THE "legend of SPIRIT LAKE."
IT IS XOT deemed necessary to follow furtlier the de- tails of military operations along the frontier. Those in which this county Avas most interested have already been noticed quite extensively. Several other military organizations than those mentioned were attempted and par- tially consummated, but inasmuch as they were never called into active service, they are not considered of sufficient im- portance to be given in detail here. Perhaps a recapitulation of the forces stationed here from the commencement of the troubles to the close of the w.ar would be of interest to the reader.
The first in order is the company of state troops under com- mand of Captain Martin, which was sent here in February, 1858, and kept here until -Tuly of that year, when they were ordercfl out of service, but not (lisl)anded. Thoy were ordered here again in the fall of that same year, and kept here until the spring of 1859, when they were disbanded. The next force stationed here was a detachment of the Sioux City Cav- alry, whose operations have already been noticed. In the spring of 18G3, when they were detailed for duty at General Sully's headquarters, their, place was taken by a detachment of Captain Crapper's Company of the Xorthern Border Bri- gade, who were kept here during the summer of 18(!;j. The next winter they were superseded by a detachment of CVmipany I,
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of the Sixth Iowa Cavalry. This company was under the command of Captain Wolf, who had his headquarters at Es- therville. T]w Spirit Lake detachment w.as commanded by Lieutenant Benjamin King. This company was kept here imtil the spring of 1864, when it was s-ucceeded by a company of the Seventh Iowa Cavalry under Captain Cooper. This force was in turn superseded by Company E, of the Sixth Iowa Cavalry, commanded by Captain Daniel Eichor, who remained here until the spring of 18 05, when they were or- dered out and their places taken by a detacliment of Minnesota troops known as Brackett's Battalion, under the command of Captain Reach This was the last military force stationed on the Iowa frontier. The last military post to be abandoned in Iowa was the one near the state line on the west side of Spirit Lake.
The year ISOo brought but little emigration. Among the ar- rivals for that year were Elev. Samuel Pillsbury and family, R. R. iWilcox, '.William Leggett and a few others. The Pills- burys and Wilcox are the only comers of that date who re- mained permanently.
Of the different avocations adopted for making a livelihood by those who were not in the army, the most important as well as the most profitable was trapping. It will be remembered that during the war the price of gold ran up to a fabulous figure, and as fur was about the only article of export that we had that represented gold, it advanced in price accordingly. During the sixties Spirit Lake was the headquarters of the largest fur trade of any town between Mankato and Sioux City. The furs most in demand at that time were otter, beaver, fisher, mink and muskrat. The coarser furs were not so much in favor at that time as they have been since. About the first of September the trappers would scatter out to look over the ground and form their plans for the fall and winter cam- paign. It was usually considered more advantageous for two
THE FUR BUSINESS 289
to go together. Sometimes larger parties were made up, but they did not usually do as well as where they went in twos. The whole country to the north and west of here was open to them, and the innumerable lakes, sloughs and streams in that direction were richly stocked with fur bearing animals.
After locating their camp and pitching their tent, usually by some lake or stream, they at once proceeded to business. Each person tended from forty to sixty traps. To do this success- fully required from fifteen to thirty miles tramping over the prairie each day, sometimes more. Walking through the prairie- grass without trail or footpath is about as tedious and tiresome as anything that can be inxagined. It was a common experience to start out in the morning about daylight, taking a sack containing from fifteen to thirty traps, and put in the entire day setting traps, taking up and moving others, sometimes skinning their game, but more often taking it back to camp with them, put in the entire day tramping over the prairie, reaching camp about dark, and then after partaking of a trapi)er's supper to put in the evening preparing and taking care of their furs.
The life which these trappers lived was about as primitive as could be endured by civilized beings. A small tent, the smallest possible supply of bedding, a few indispensable cook- ing utensils, a generous supply of ammunition, together with a little flour and a few necessary groceries, completed the out- fit. During the winter time these camps were moved from place to place on large handsleds. A favorite method for trappers traveling over the prairie, especially during the fall and spring or any other time of high water, was to have a small, strongly built boat mounted on two light wheels, such as hayrake or cultivator wheels, and load their luggage into the boat.' Bv this means thev were enabled to take a direct course across the prairies, regardless of swollen streams and impassable marshes.
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Spirit Lak(' was a great outfittiiiii' ])()iiit for tlio trappers and also a great point for collecting fnrs. It is probable that Henry Barkman of Spirit Lake, in tlio twenty years that he devoted to the l)usiness, bonght, packed, handled and shipj^ed more fnr tlian any other man who ov<'-i- lived in Iowa. Col- lecting fnr over the vast nninhabited region of northwestern Iowa, sonthwestern Miuncsota and sontheastern I)akota was no picnic.
In i)leasant w<'athcr when the streams were low it was not a very l)ad job, l)nt these conditions were the (wecption and not the rnle. A large i)roportion of the fnr was gathered in in the winter. The two men on whom ^Tr. Barkman de]iended the most larffelv for assistance in l)n\in<>' and collectino- the fnr in this region were John P. Gilbert and -James S. Johns- ton, both of Spirit Lake. It was no nncommon ex]~)erience for either one of these men to start ont in the dead of winter over the snow-covered ]n'airie on a tri]:» varying from three to ten days in extent with no expectation of meeting a hnman being except at the trappers' camps as they strnck them. Idicy had to take along grain for their teams and ])rovisions for them- selves. They also nsnally took along a snpply of groceries and provisions for the trappers at the cam])s they expected to visit. It was cnstomary at the larger camps to ])nt n]) a little hay in the fall for the benefit of the fnrd)nyers dnring the winter.
Usnally the buyer in traveling over the country coidd strike a cam]) at night, but failing to do tliis tlie only altcrnatiye was to get into a place as well sheltered from the wind as possi- ble and ])ass the night there, counting himself lucky if no storm came u]) to prevent resuming his course in the morn- ing. In'addition to the fnrs gathered in this way, many trap- pers kept their entire catch until spring and sold it all at once. This fur, after being brought to Spirit Lake was assorted,
EARLY Lrrp:RARY SOCIETIES 291
packed and sent to St. Panl whore it was opened, re-assorted, repacked and started on its jonrney to the London and Leipsic sales.
It is to be regretted that no statistics have been preserved showing the mag'nitnde of the business from 1860 to 1875. With the settlement of the connties to the north and west which occurred in 180!> and ISTO, the fnr business began to decline and within fifteen years of tliat time it liad practically died out.
The claim has heretofore been made and maintained with a good degree of plausibility that the early settlers of this county represented a higher type of intelligence and literary attainment than is usual in frontier settlements. The superior intellectual culture of our earliest inhabitants has always been recognized. How much this early influence has had to do in so shaping oui- more recent literary growth as to make the establishment and mainteuauee of ' the ('hautau([ua of today a comjdete success we can never know; perha]:)S not any. Still tlie fact remains that among the more prominent of our people, whether numbering few or many, there has always been a de- cided bent for intellectual im])rovement and literary enter- tainment.
Literary societies were organized here as early ,as 1801 there being one both at Spirit Lake and Okoboji that winter. The most prominent literary society of those early days was known as the "Okoboji Uterary League," organized in the fall of 1863. Many of the papers read before that society would do credit to any of the many literary societies that have flourished since that time. The one attracting the most attention, Mrs. A. L. Buckland's ''Legend of Spirit Lake," has been published in several of the papers of northwestern Iowa and extracts from it hat^e been given in several eastern magazines. It was not claimed bv the writer at the time that there was much founda-
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tion for the legend as there related hut the public has seized upon the tradition as being the true one and it is accepted as such where the poem itself has never been heard of. A writer in the "Great Divide" recently gave the incidents of the poem rendered in prose with this introduction :
"The legend of Spirit Lake has about it a touch of genuine pathos and true wild flavor peculiar to tlie Indian alone, and savors of that age long since gone by when the red man's canoe alone floated over the clear blue water of Spirit Lake."
MRS. A. L. BUCKLAND.
LEGEND OF SPIRIT LAKE.
(Note by the Author.)
This lovely sheet of water which lies in the northern part of our country is, save our own wihl charming Okoboji, the most beautiful in the West. Its waters are pure and clear, it shores either smooth and pebbly or wild and rocky and in some places walled with a regularitv we can but admire. What is remark- able it has no visible outlet, but about half way across the lake when the waters are not moved by the wind a strong current is perceptible. The Sioux have a superstition that the lake is watched over by spirits.
LEGEND OF SPIRIT LAKE
293
The following lines tell their trailition:
The iWest, the West, the boundless West, The land of all I love the best, Her beauties live on every hand, Her billowy j)rairies vast and grand, A landscape spread so wild and free, What other clime can lovelier be ?
Her rivers on toward ocean flow. Her lakes like gems of crystal glow, With pebbly beach or rocky shore Or wooded clifl^s, trees hanging o'er The water's edge, while down below The finny tribes dart to and fro ; !N"o place so dark but wild flowers spring; ISTo spot so lone, but wild birds sing. For me the prairie and the lake Possess a charm I would not break.
"No place so dark but wild flowers spring; No spot so lone hut wild bi7-ds sing."
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I love tliciii when in springtime bright Eacli scene is touched with ten(h'r light, Or when midsummer's stronger heat Makes life a burden, rest a cheat, These wilds, these lakes, this prairie breeze, These lovely luiunts among the trees Make fittest place to while away The tedious, dull midsummer day.
But more I love them when the year With autumn frosts is growing sere, 'When gorgeous sunset's golden dyes Light up our Indian-summer skies. isow, Mature claims these wilds her own, But Art ere long wUl share the throne ; E'en now the pioneer has come Within these wilds to make his home, The Red Man farther west has gone — The Indian trail is overgrown.
Ere hither came the sons of toil To make them homes aiid till the soil. The bold and fearless hunter came In search of s])ort and western game ;
"Forme the iirairii n itd Ihe lake Possess a charm 1 would not br-eak.
LEGEND OF SPIRIT LAKE
295
"The mellow hat'vest moon at night
. Vloakexl Nature's foryn in misty Huht."
And oft adventure strange he met Wliile here the Red ^lan wandered yet. Bnt since it is not niv intent In rhvnie to tell each wild event Which early settlers here befell, This n.arrative I'll hrietlv tell :
'Twas years ago, perhaps a score, And possildy a dozen more, ]\[y chronicler don't tell exact Bnt simply fnrnishes the fact The Indian-Slimmer time was here, The loveliest time of .all the year ; Throngh day the sun's bright golden rays Combined with antnmn's smoky haze, The mellow harvest moon at night Cloaked ^N'atnre's form in misty light.
A sportive party on a hunt,
Who d.arcd the warlike Sionx confi'ont.
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From wandering many a weary day To these our lakes now bent their way, And on the shore of Spirit Lake Their noonday rest thoy thought to take. 'Now, in the grove, the lake close by, An Indian tepee caught their eye,. And soon the youthful brave they met Who here his tepee-poles had set.
dJmpashota was the name,
Some of you have seen the same
As years ago, five I believe,*
He passed through here an aged chief,
A j)risoner with his little band
To Captain Martin's brave command;
But this was in an earlier day
Long ere his locks were mixed with grey.
But young and strong and brave was he
As ever Sioux was known to be.
The hunters bold he gave his hand
And welcomed them the "smoky man."
They saw the beauty of the place, The lake's walled shore .and rippled face. And asked what name to it belonged. For well they knew the Indian tongue, "Minnie Waukon," the warrior spake ; Translated this means Spirit Lake. "And why thus called," he asked the brave. As he looked out upon the wave, AVhile they the pipe of peace imbibe He told this legend of his tribe :
"fe^
How many, many moons ago The West belonged all to the Sioux. They were a countless tribe and strong, But soon the white man's bitter wrong Took of their hunting ground the best. Forced them to make their marches west, Forced them to leave those sacred mounds. Their father's ancient luirial grounds.
*This poem was written in February. 1864.
LEGEND OF SPIRIT LAKE
297
"They saw the beauty of the place. The lake's walled tiho7e and rippled face."
Tlieir god of war was illy pleased, Would not by trifles be appeased, But woke within tlie warrior's breast Anger for loeing thus oppressed. And war parties were often made The white man's country to invade ; And many a captive brought from far Was offered to tlieir god of war.
At last they brought a maiden fair. Of comely form and beauty rare. With eyes than lustrous stars more bright. And flowing tresses dark as night. Too fair for human race seemed she. But fit the white man's god to be. Now, the Dacotah worships ne'er Tlie beautiful, the bright, the fair,
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But his Waukon's some hideous thing With awful eve and monster wing, Loves what is vilest, lowest, worst. Thinks truth and beauty things accursed. He loves the dark and hates the light, d Protects the wrong, destroys the right,
Ah, captive maid, what luckless fate ! The victim of such fiendish hate. A savage vengeance craves thy life. The brave makes sharp his scalping knife. Those tresses dark their dance shall grace Ere next thev venture on the chase.
But 'niongst the warriors brave and gay Was one they called the' "Star of Day." The chief's much loved and honored son, His first, his last, his only one. By all both feared and loved was he, Their chief 'twas said he w,as to be. He hardly seemed like others there. His eye was dark, his beard was fair. In fact 'twas whispered round by some He was a paleface and had conre Into the tribe some years ago, — W.as stolen by the chieftain's squaw.
He, always swiftest in the race. Loved well the reckless hunt and chase. His arrow true ne'er spent for naught Was sure to bring the game it sought. He white man born and savage reared By instinct nature's God revered ; He saw the captive, "Pale Face Dove" And in his breast she wakened love. 'Pull well he knew the cruel fate Which might the captive maid await Resolved himself to rescue her, The lovely dark-eyed prisoner. To take her from that savage band And bear her to her own bright land. And there with her he thought to stay And make her bride to Star of Day.
LEGEND OF SPIRIT LAKE
The captive saw his cheek's light hue And curling- locks, and quickly knew He was not of the savage race, But some long-captured young "paleface." She caught the glance of his bright eye And sweetly blushed, but knew not why. It chanced that to the warrior's care The chief oft left the captive fair. And though each spake a tongue unknown Love has a language all its own, And by some silent magic spell It found a way its tale to tell.
At Marljle Grove within its shade 'Twas planned to offer up the maid. The whole being left to Star of Day^ He managed quite a different way. Beneath the bank, just out of view. He anchored near his light canoe; Across the lake within a glen Two well-trained ponies waited them.
One eve as light began to fade He cut the thongs that bound the maid, 'And 'neath the twilight's dusky sky, While followed them no warrior's eye, He led her to the water's brim, She not resisting went with him, And launching quick their light canoe They o'er the waters swiftly flew.
The god of war willed not that so
This victim from his grasp should go.
Awoke a storm upon the lake,
Which caused the waves to madly break,
And as the night grew wild and dark
Upset their fragile, dancing bark.
And angry waters closed above
The Star of Day and Pale Eaced Dove.
But water spirits 'neath the wave
Soon led them to a shining cave,
Whose floor was paved with sea shells light,
Whose walls were set with diamonds bright.
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"Anil angry waters closed above. The Star of Day and Pale Faced Dove."
And pearls and gems a glittering lot
Bad there been brought to deck their grot.
And there e'en now still live and love
I'lie Star of Day and Pale Faced Dove.
Xot mortals now but spirits grown
They claim the lake as all their own,
And watch its waters night and day.
And never since that time, they say,
Across the lake in his canoe
Has gone as yet a single Sionx.
But if he venture on the wave
Xo power is able him to save
From angry spirits who Avith frown
A wliirlpool set to drag him ddwn.
And no Red ]\[an dare undertake
To sail upon this Spirit Lake,
But if the white man's jolly boat
Upon its silvery surface float.
Quick ceases then the whirlpool's spell,
The spirits know their people well,
And by a rip]ile on the Avave
Tell where is hid their shiniuff cave.
CHAPTER XXIV.
CAUSES DELAYING E.MIGRATIOX A PERI01> OK
DULLNESS THE EARLY WORK OF TIFE METHODIST
EPISCAPAL C'lirKCII THE EARLY PREACHERS •
THE FIRST CAMP MEETIX<; THE FIRST RELKilOUS
REVIVAL THE FEARFUL STORMS BLIZZARDS
WHO COINED THE WORD A DESCRIPTION FROM
THE '"great divide" A FEW EXPERIENCI<:S A
ROMANTIC WEDDING TRIP.
SfDE FROM MATTERS c .nnected with tlic o])eration of troops aloiiii the border for the ])revention of fur- ther outrages, matters on the frontier were very quiet (lurinc the remainder of the war. The county org'aniza- tion was kej)t up, liut peojjh' ])aiil hut litth' attention to hieal matters. Here as elsewliere tlie war was the all-absorbing- topic. There was hardly a family luit had its rein-esentative in the army. The population of frontier counties either remained stationary or diminished. There was hardly any emigration except the few who struck for the frontier to avoid the draft. Xo imiu-ovements were made and many that were in course of constrnction and others that were projected were abandoned. Fields were allowed to grow uj) with weeds, and fences were used for fuel. The ])(>])ulation of the county diminished ma- terially, and although ilic tirsr settlement was in IS,")!; the pop- ulation in the s])ring of 1865 was ])ut a little in excess of two hundred. With the exception of a little stock raising, farming was almost entirely neglected. The settlements were confined to the immediate neighborhood 'of the groves, the prairies being as yet untouched. Since the crash of 1857 there had been but little or no demand for government land.
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Everybody imagined that after the close oi the war there would be an unprecedented rush for the frontier, and that event was looked forward to witli a great deal of anxiety. The ample provision made by the government for the defense of the frontier quieted the apprehensions of the settlers, and but little more occurred worthy of record as a matter of history during the period under consideration. The years dragged themselves slowly along until the collapse of the rebellion and the return of peace. The expectation that the return of peace would give a new impetus to emigration and that our prairies would commence filling up .at once were but partially realized f.t this time so far as this county was concerned. That came later.
The rare chances offered at the South attracted attention in that direction at the expense of the West, and nmny who had severed their business connection ,at the ISTorth in answer to the call for troops now thought they saw openings in that direc- tion to commence business again superior to those of the un- developed regions of the West. Again, the building of the Pacific Railroad commenced about that time and as it opened up a large and romantic region to settlement, it drew the larger part of western emigration to points along its line, and more especially that class of emigration who could command capital.
Another agency that had been depended upon to stimulate emigration to this region was the passage by Congress of the homestead law. But the situation of affairs here at that time was not favorable to the complete success of its operation. While it w.as unquestionably a great benefit to many, it did not have a tendency to bring capital into the country, but, if any- thing, the tendency was in the opposite direction. A great many who depended upon their labor for a living imagined that if they could only get a piece of government land their
DULL TIMES 303
fortunes would be made, and the immediate results of tiiat law as demonstrated in this and adjoining counties was that many who had no idea of the hardships and privations of a new country, and who had always spent their money as soon as earned, spent their last dollar in squatting upon a piece of government land and then found themselves perfectly helpless. Xot having been in the habit of laying their plans beforehand, but of spending their money as fast .as they earned it, they were illy prepared to surmount the difficulties which fall to the lot of all new countries.
The inevitable result of this state of affairs was that the country developed more slowly than would have been the case with a more wealthy and energetic class of settlers. Again, it is a well-known fact that army life is not conducive to economical or regular habits, and many carried the easy-going "devil-may-care habits" of camp life with them to their claims and the result was, although they might have been eminently successful as soldiers, thev were hardlv so as farmers.
As yet the only religious denomination that had made any attempt to maintain regular services in the county, or in this part of the state in fact, were the Methodists. The names of their preachers up to 1876 has already been given, but possibly they should receive a rather more extended notice. As has been before noted Mr. McLean, the pioneer Methodist preacher of this county, was sent here by the Conference in the fall of 1859. He was an ideal representative of that class of educated, conscientious young men who have, in all periods of our coun- try's history, struck for the frontier and labored honestly and earnestly to do what good they could, and exert what influence they might in forming public opinion and directing public sentiment along the lines of mental and moral advancement. He was a young man and this was his first charge, and as before stated he was the first preacher on this charge. He was followed
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Ijy Rev. J. A. \'aii Auda, who was the opijositc of ]\IeLeau in every particular. He was trifling, flippant an<l insincere, to sav nothinii,' of the more serious charges afterward brought aeainst him. He was finallv dismissed from the ministry for immoral conduct.
Eev. J. W. Jones, his successor, was an honest, earnest man and a hard worker, but he was homesick. He had left his wife and two small children somewhere in Wisconsin wlien he came here. He stood it just as long as he could and tlieii went back to his family, wliiidi 1k' never should have left. He was a Welchman and coidd talk the ''Gaelic" fluently. 'Fhe charge was without a pastor until the ensuing Conference met, when Rev. (William Hyde was appointed to the circuit. He was sim- ply an ignoramus, not capable of doing much of either good or harm. It cannot be said that he had phenomenal success in expounding the word to the soldier boys statioiu'd here at that time, but it was fun for the l>oys. all the same, and they at- tended services rciiularh' and were si'encrous in their treatment of "Brother Hyde," who remained here during the conference year.
The circuit had by this time grown to such pro]inrtions that the people thought they were entitled to more recognition l)y the Conference by having a more able and experienced man sent among them. Hi answer to this demand Rev. Seymour Snyder was assigiu'd to the circuit. His a])])ointnient proved eminently satisfactory. He was able, honest, earnest and genial, and had the liap])y faculty of ada])tiug himself to his surroundings without friction, and if he could not strictly be termed a genius in its expressive sense he evinced a good degree of sound sense and capacity for hard W(U*k. Tt was during his ministry and under his direction that the first camp meeting was held in northwestern Iowa.
This was in the summer of 1S()4. Rev. Mr. Lamont of Fort
THE FIRST CAMP MEETING 305
Dodge was presiding elder, lie was an able [)reaelier and an indefatigable worker, and being ably seconded hy ]\rr. Snyder, the result of their unit-ed labors was a pronoimeed success. This camp meeting was held in the grove at what is now known as Fort Dodge Point, and was attended l)y persons living in the four counties forming the circuit. These annual camp meetings were kept up and grew annually in attendance and importance as the country increased in population. The fol- lowing year and possibly one or two years more the meeting was held in the grove at Dixon's Beach. One year it was held near Omaha Beach, and one at Gilley's Beach, a^ter which the yearly camp meetings were held on Pillsbury's Point until about the year 1878 or 187!», when they were removed to the grove adjoining the town of Spirit Lake. They were kept u]> for a few years longer, and were finally discontinued altogether.
Mr. Snyder's appointment terminated with the close of the conference year, and he was succeeded by Rev. W. A. Richards. It was not far from tlii:^ time, it might have been a year or two later, that the circuit was divided, Dickinson and Emmet Counties forming one circuit and (Tay aiid O'Brien another. Under this arrangement the ])reaclier in charge here gave one Sunday to each county alternately. While this reduced the amount of travel materially, their work still was no picnic, especially in times of high water and swollen streams.
The first winter of Mr. Richards' work here was marked by the first religious revival in Dickinson r\)unty and |)rol)al)ly the first in this portion of the state. A series of revival meetings was held in the Center Grove schoolhouse, commencing some time in January and continuing about six weeks, during which time an intense interest was manifested and large accessions to the church was the result. The schoolhouse where the meetings were held was a low log affair, about fourteen by twenty feet in size, luit somehow it was made to accommodate large con-
306 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
gregations. Mr. Kichards was kept on this circuit for three years, the utmost limit that a preacher was then allowed to stay on one circuit at a time. The names of his successors up to 1876 have already been given. It would require too much space to treat of the work of each in detail. It is the first, the commencement*, the pioneer work in aily particular line that always interests the reader.
While but little occurred at this time worthy of record as historic events, the ordinary experiences of the average settler were such as were calculated to test to the utmost their courage, energy, harc^hood and perseverance. The dangers they braved and the hardships they endured can be better understood by giving a few personal adventures and experiences than by whole pages of dry descriptions.
In those early days it was no uncommon experience for the country to be swept by storms of terrific violence. These storms have since been denominated ''blizzards." There has been con- siderable controversy among Iowa newspapers regarding the origin of the term. It Avas claimed at one time that it origin- ated with O. C. Bates, the founder of the jSTorthern Vindicator, in Emmet County. J^Tow, while there is no doubt that Mr. Bates was the first to use the term in a newspaper article, thus being the first to launch it on the sea of newsj)aper nomenclature, it did not originate with him. As near as can be traced it was brought here from southern Ohio by William Jenkins, one of the early settlers living east of Spirit Lake. It used to be a com- mon byword among the boys when the conditions of the atmos- phere indicated an approaching storm, "Well, boys, I guess we are going to have one of Uncle Billy's blizzards." This was some years before the founding of the Vindicator by Mr. Bates. There is no question the term "blizzard," as designat- ing a storm of peculiar force and violence, was given to the world by the early settlers of this county. A late writer in
BLIZZARDS 307
the Great Divide uses the following language in describing them :
"Cruel and relentless are the blizzards and to be much dreaded. The settler away from his farm house in endeavor- ing to return while the blizzard is raging is lost and frozen to death. He cannot see ten feet ahead of him, for the blizzard has grasped the fine hard snow resembling sand in its icy fin- gers and flings it onward with a blinding force that cuts the skin of any one facing the storm.
"The cold is intense, and hardlv anv amount of clothing sufiices to protect one so piercing is the blast. Lucky is the wanderer who, under such circumstances, can find a river bluff on which may be growing a few clumps of poplars to serve as a protecting shield. The speed of the wind is often sixty and seventy miles an hour, .and when an effort is made to progress against it, unconsciously one turns sidewise to it and^the lia- bility to proceed in a wrong direction is thus increased. For- tunately the blizzard blows in one direction, being a straight current of wind, and differing in this respect from the cyclone, which has a rotary as well as forward motion, and which is of unequal violence, varying as is the distance from the center of the cyclone current or circle of wind. The small, dry, hard particles of snow are hurried on in blinding sheets by the wind, so that nothing is seen except a dull grayness and the seem- ingly ceaseless drifting walls of snow particles.
"The outbuildings in Manitoba and Dakota are in close ]3rox- imity to tlie settlers' houses as might be expected, and yet dur- ing a blizzard that means business the outbuildings are not visible from the house. The farmer who has to oq to the shed for fuel or to feed his stock attaches around his waist a cord, cue end of which remains in the house, so as to guide him on his return. ^Many lives have been lost in these cold blizzards.
"Sometimes the blizzard blows so hard that some have imag- ined the treeless wastes to be due to this devastating force, and the theory is fully as plausible as the one that the absence of trees is due to prairie fires. 'What becomes of the blizzard, this lusty and violent son of the Xorth ? It would appear that his force is somewhat dissipated as he spreads himself over !N'ebraska, Iowa and the Mississippi Valley, where the south and west Avinds are met. Locking arms with these it may be that the circling is produced resulting in the cyclone which
308 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
journeys on iisnally in a brief conrse as if anxions to separate, Imt these are studies for the weatlier bureau.''
While these terrific storms were altogether too frcnjinMir for comfort in an early day, they have of late years been far less frequent and far less violent. What effect the cultivation and develo])ment nf the country may have in modifying them can- not be known, but we do know that the blizzard of those early days is a tiling of the past. Th:' last storm having all of the attributes of the early blizzard was that of -January 7, 1873. Storms and heavy snows and violent winds we have had since then, but they weren't blizzards. They lacked the blinding, stiflinir, chokinii,', bewilderiuii' effect of the earlier storms. The <lates of a few of the more remarkable blizzards .are given as follows: December 1, IS-jd; January 1, ISCi; February 14, ISd.') ; ^larcdi ."), 1S7(>: J.annary 7, 1S7-!. 'Jdiere were many others during tliat'peidoil, but the dates cannot lie definite- ly fixed. ^Fuch sutfering and a considerable loss of life re- sulted from ex])osure to these terrific storms. The following instances are given to illustrat'e the experiences of the early settlers aliMiu this line. ]\rany more incidents of the same gen- ei'al character as the following mii<'ht be ii'iven to illustrate the nature <;)f the obstacles with whicdi the early ])i()neer had to contend, but these are deemed sufficient. These are not given for their historic value, or because tliey are more impor- tant than many others that might be given, but are taken at r.andom from many of the thrilling experiences so conmion at that time on the nortliwestern frontier.
The first is an experience related by Zina Henderson, who has resided in this county for over thirty-five years, and who s])ent several winters trapping in the regions to the northwest of here, lonjj,' before settlers had invaded that locality. Mr. Henderson savs :
EXPERIENCES OF ''QUAKER" TOMPKINS AND OIHERS 309
■^'In the iiiontli of February, 1805, a party consisting of E. V. Osborn, Clayton Tompkins, Eicbard Long, George Barr and myself, were trap})ing on tbe Ivoek liiver, our camp lieing situated at tbe forks of tbe I^oek, near where tbe town of Doon has since been located. There was another party in camp on the Big Sioux some twenty miles to the northwest of us. iWe used to cross back and forth from one camp to the other as occasion might require. At this time there were a few soldiers stationed at Sioux Falls, but as yet there were no settlers there. Our camp at the forks of the Rock was a kind of general headquarters or su])i)ly station for the smaller trapping camps in that locality. The trappers used to have their supplies sent out there by the load, from which point thev were distributed to tbe smaller c.ami)S as needed bv such means as Avere available, the little handsled being the most common, although some of the trappers had Indian ponies with which they moved thoir camps.
"On the fourteenth of February, 18(55, a ])arty consisting of Osborn, Tompkins, Long and Barr, left the main camp on the Rock to take some supplies over to the camp on the Big Sioux. Barr was a member of the camp on the Big Sioux, although he had been with us at that time, waiting until some of our party could return with him. The party had a pair of ponies and a light wagon and were loaded with flour and provisions. I remained behind to look after the camp in their alisence. They left camp not far from nine o'clock in the morning. The day was remarkably fine and pleasant, and the boys, see- ing no occasion for hurrying, took things very leisurely, never doubting their ability to reach camp that afternoon, or at least, early in the evening.
"About four o'clock, or when the jiarty were within three miles of their destination, the wind suddenly whipped around into the northwest and the most violent blizzard recorded in tlie .annals of northwestern Iowa l)roke upon them in all its blinding, bewildering force and fury. Xow many peo])le seem to think that if it was to save their lives they could make their way for three miles against any storm that ever blew. Such people have not met the genuine blizzard. These trap- pers were experienced frontiersmen and they knew the coun- try. They Avere not lost, but to make any head whatever against that terrific storm they found to be utterly impossible.
310 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
",Wbat was to be doiiL' '. This was a very pressing qu-estion. They were among the bluffs along the Big Sioux, and the snow was deep in the ravines. They went to work and dug a hole in the snow, packed up their flour on the windward side of it, and then taking their robes and blankets and hud- dling together so far succeeded in ma\ing themselves comfort- al)le, that had they been contented to stay where they were, they would without doubt have been all right in the morning. But some of them conceived the idea that if they allowed the snow to drift in over them they would be smothered, .and the balance gave in to this foolish notion, and so after remaining there between two and three hours, they determined to cake their back track and if possible reach the camp they had left that morning. So digging out from under the snow they hitched one pony to the wagon and turned the other loose, and then placing the wind to their backs and with no other guide than the storm, started on their return trip.
"The wind howled so that it was impossible to hear each other talk at all, and it required the utmost care land skill on the part of all to keep near each other. They formed in single file, with B.arr in the rear, v/alking with their heads down, and before they were aware of the difficulties in the way of keep- ing together, Barr had fallen behind. How long he kept up with them or how far he traveled, they never knew. They only knew he perished in that fearful storm and his remains were never found. The balance of the party pressed on .and reached the Rock several miles below the camp they left the morning before. Here thev found timber and succeeded in getting a fire. The wind had abated somewhat, so as to make surrounding objects discernible. Two of the party had been there before and thought they knew the coun- try pretty well. They knew there was another camp near where they were, but whether it w^as up or down the river, they did not know. Osborn insisted that it was down the river, while Tompkins was just as certain that it was up the river, and declared that he would not go down the river until he was more sure on this point. Accordingly be started out to look around and satisfy himself. Up to this time none of the p.arty were frozen. They had stood their night tramp through the storm without suft'ering anything more serious than fatigue.
OTHER INCIDENTS 311
"Osborn was so sure that the camp they were seeking* was down the river that he and Long started at onoe in that direc- tion. They were right in their surmise, and struck the camp inside of an hour. After two or three hours the Quaker wan- dered into camp in a sad plight. Both of his feet were so bad- ly frozen that eventually they had to be amputated. After remaining in camp here a couple of days, they b'-ought him up to our camp at the forks of the Rock, where everything was done for him that could be done. It was .about two ^veeks before he could be taken to Spirit Lake where the amputation was performed."
Uncle Tompkins, as he was familiarly called, was well known to all of the old settlers and was a special favorite with manv of the summer tourists of the earlier davs. An- other victim of this same storm was a trapper familiarly known among the boys as "Uncle Joe." He was trapping at one of the camps out west and had come for provisions.
Hon. D. A. W. Perkins, in his history of Osceola County, relates several incidents of the storm of January, IST^, one or tw^o of wdiich are of local interest. Mr. ^Vheeler, a In-other- in-law of Orson Rice, had lived in the town of Spirit Lake for a year or two aiid during the summer of 1872, took up a claim near the state line in Osceola County, south of Round Lake. "There was then a postoffice on the Spirit Lake and Wor- thington route, about a mile south of where the town of Round Lake now is. It was kept by William Mosier. Mr. Wheeler was at the postoffice in Mosier's house when the storm came. Wheeler started for home, and unable to find his house, he w.andered w^ith the storm and at last, exhausted and benumbed with cold, lay down and died. He got nearly to West Okobo- ji Lake in Dickinson County. He was found after the storm cleared up by Mr. Tuttle, whose home was not far from where Wheeler perished."
Another incident related by Mr. Perkins is of a Mr. Hamil-
312 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Ton, a resident of Osceola ('oniity, who startcil tliat morning to go to ^lilford to mill.
One more incident in this connection mnst snffice, althongh many might l)c given. The following description of the wed- ding trip of ^Ir. .and Mrs. A. I). Arthiir^has been in ])rint be- fore, bnt it was published anonvmonslv and fietitions names used and for that reason was regarded bv nnmv as a fancy sketch with some grains of ti-ntli in it. Ihit the article is trne in all its details. The intimate friends of ]\Ir. .and Mrs. Arthur have often heard them relate the story <»f their roman- tic wedding trip. They were married in Febrnary, 186 — , and started at once on a visit to Mv. Arthur's old home in iWisconsin. Idie article referred to was written by Airs. IT. H. Kitts, ^[rs. Arthur's younger sister, formerly of Lake Park, and was published Avith the ''reminiscences of the early davs" in the Lake Park New'S, and is in part .as follows :
"A single horse and cutter took them well on their way the first day. They stopped that night at the home of an acquain- tance, starting out bright .and early the next morning, anxious to reach the river at La Crosse before it broke up, if possible. Early in the forenoon the sun clouded over .and soon the snow began to fall again very thickly, and the track, Avhich was not plain, owing to the frequent storms and little travel, was entirely obliterated, and they could only judge by the direc- tion which way to go. The snow coutinued falling through the day, but towards sunset cleared away, and at dusk they found they were not on their road, but near a small grove, with no sight of any habitation. They knew of no other way of doing but to get into the shelter of the grove and ]>ass the night there, wdiich they did, as they had plenty of robes and blankets and a bountiful lunch ' provided for them by their kind hostess of the })revious night. The weather grew quite w^arm during the night, and when the morning dawned bright and clear, they could see a large grove wdiich should have been their stopping place for the night, had they not lost their w.av.
"The sun very soon commenced so soften the crust on the snoAv and their horse could not be prevailed upon to go bnt
A ROMANTIC WEDDING TRIP 3 13
fL few steps, as its legs were cut by the sharp crust, and being without its noonday, night and morning feed made it stubborn, and go it either could not or would not. After consulting together for a time, the only thing to be done was for Mr. Arthur to go on foot to the grove, where he knew there were some settlers, and procure help. Imagine if you can the. vouna: wife watching; her husband as far as she could see him, toiling along, breaking through crust and sinking in the snow over his boot tops at every step, and knowing that the best he could do it must be several hours she would be left alone, no human l3eing in sight, no living thing but the horse near her.
"The hours dragged wearily on, and at last the sun v/ent down and no one in sight. The timid girl remembers yet the ter- rors of that day and night. Eye and ear were strained alike to catch some sight or sound of human aid until her senses were gone, when the hungry horse would look at her and give a pitiful neigh when she would get out of the sleigh, go to its head and putting her arms around its neck, let her feelings find vent in tears, until getting too weak and chilled to stand, she would climb back into the sleigh, wrap herself in the robes and through exhaustion lose herself in a few moments of unconscious sleej). At last, as the moon rose higher, making objects as visible as in the daylight, she thought she heard voices, and looked away off and saw outlined against the sky the forms of three persons, wdio seemed to her terrified sight to be clothed in blankets, and supposed them to be Indians who had perhaps murdered her husband and that she would soon share the same fate.
^'Slie watched them as they drcAV near, and could distinguish voices, but they talked in an unknown tongue, which verified her fearful suspicions, and with a thought of the loved ones at home who would mourn her tragic death, she covered her- self completely in the robes and waited for the final moment. Soon .a hand was laid on her shoulder and a gruif but kindly voice said in broken speech, "Hello ! You asleep ?" She threw aside the robes and looked into the faces of three white men Avho could none of them, except one, speak a word of English. She was too weak and frightened to speak, but reached out her liand, which they took in kindly clasp, and the one who could speak so as to be understood told her of her husband's .arrival at his house late in the afternoon, nearly exhausted. He told them where and how he had left his wife and beffered them to
314 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
go back with liiin for her. They promised speedy assistance, but the first man was obliged to go to his nearest neighbor, about a mile away, for snowshoes, as that was their only way of getting over the deep snow. They persuaded him to remove his boots, which were full of snow^, and take a cup of coffee while they were getting things ready, which he did, begging them to be as speedy as possible, as he 'feared his wife would die of fright.
"After taking off his boots his limbs began to swell at a rai)id rate, and when at last the men returned with the neigh- bor who had proffered his assistance, Mr. Arthur found him- self unable to move his limbs without great pain, and to put his boots on was simply an impossibility. The Norwegians assured him they could find his wife and bring her to the house much quicker than if he were with them, as in his ex- hausted state he could not keep u]) with them. He bade them lu.ake haste, promising them a lil)eral reward when they had brought his wife safely to him. When they had found her and convinced her of her husband's safety, they drew the cut- ter farther into the shelter of the grove, built a huge fire and spread the robes on the snow around it, seated themselves near and ate a lunch, proffering her a share, which she was obliged to decline, .as she was too weak and chilled to feel any desire for food. The reaction from the terrible strain proved too much for the slender frame and weak nerves, and a half hour of unconsciousness followed. -(When at last her senses returned she found herself Ivine; on the robes close to the fire, with the kind and anxious faces of the three perplexed men around her, one clasping her hands, and another bathing her temples with water, and still another holding a cup of steaming coffee to her lips, which she was soon able to swallow.
"It revived lier ffreatlv and after a few moments she was able to sit up ,and thank them for their kindness. They waited for a time that she might get thoroughly warmed and rested, and tlien prepared to start for their home, knowing well the anxiety of the waiting ones there. IMany efforts were made to induce the horse to lead, Imt he would not stir, and they found they must leave him. They placed Mrs. Arthur back in the sleigh, wrapping her warmly in the robes, and started back, two of them drawing the cutter by hand. At times when it would break through the drifts, they would lift hov carefnllv ont and on to whore the crust was harrier.
A ROMANTIC WEDDING TRIP 315
and then pull the sleigh through to solid crust again, then re- place her and make another start.
"At four o'clock in the morning they struck their own traveled road and hurried along home. * * * After two or three hours' sleep, they breakfasted and prepared to resume their journey, which they found they must do with a sled drawn by oxen, as that was the only mode of conveyance available. The horse was left on the prairie for ten days, the ITorwegians tak- ing out hay and grain each day until the snow had thawed enough th.at he was willing to follow them home, where they kept him until called for.
"The remainder of the trip was made first in the ox sled, next in a sleigh drawn by a mule a peddler had been driving, which would persist in stopping at every house on the road for a short time, then a team of horses was procured, which took them to the river just as it was on the point of breaking up, making it unsafe for travel. Mrs. Arthur was drawn over on a handsled and at that point, La Crosse, tihey took tjie train and were soon at the end of their journey, and, I ven- ture to say, there are but few young couples living who have tried as many different modes of locomotion as they did on that never-to-be-forgotten bridal trip."
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CHAPTER XXV.
THE 8ETTLEMP:A'T at LAKEVILLE IX ISGG THE
FIRST AFTER THE CEOSE OF THE WAR THE WET
SUMMER HIGH PRICES FOR PROVISION'S THE
FIRST SETTLERS IX THE OTHER TOWXS THE
FUEL QUESTIOX BURXIXG HAV IH'RXIXU CORX
THE SOD SHAXTV.
FTEIt the close of the w.ar the tide of eiin,<>ratiou turned tliis way but slowlv. Some few who enlisted from this county returned to their places in the snmmer and fall of 1865'. It will he rememl)ered that of those enlisting from this county a majority served in the Sioux City Cavalry. They were discharged in Deceixiber, 1864, after having served about three years and four months. Some of them came back at once, especially those whose families were here. Others who had sent their families away temporarily to places of greater safety came back the following year.
There was no new emigration of any account until the spring of 1866 and but little then. About that time a party consisting of Joshua A. Pratt, George W. Pratt, Joseph A. Green, A. Price and some others came in and made the first settlement at Lakeville.' ^Vnother i)arty, consisting of James Heldridge, George Wallace, F. (\ and Israel Doplittle, came in a little later and took claims on the prairie. They bought a timber lot in the Okol)oji Grove, built small cabins and win- tered in the grove, then moved to their claims the following spring. E. J. Davis and Jerry Ivnowlton came in the same sunnuer ,as tlie others and took claims in the same neighbor- hood. A. D. Inman, Wallace Smith and a few others also came that same season.
318 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
This fact is mentioned here, not as being more important than other accessions to the popnlation of the county that came in shortly .after, bnt it is of interest from the fact that it was the first after the collapse of emigration at the breaking out of the Civil War. The summer of 1866 was a very wet one, resembling that of 1858, only worse if anything. There bad been l)ut little raised here the year before, and there w.as a general scarcity throughout the entire north part of the state, which, together with the impassable condition of the roads, sent grain and provisions up to a fabulous figure.
As yet there were no bridges. The streams were swimming deep and the sloughs Avere full of water and the roads were absolutely impassable. Mankato and Fort Dodge were the nearest points where supplies could be obtained. Flour re- tailed as high as thirteen dollars per hundred. Prices reached the highest point in the spring of 1867. At that time corn sold as high ,as two dollars per bushel as far down as in Poca- hontas County, and oats at a dollar and a half. Other prices were equally exorbitant. Of course this condition of aifairs blocked emigration, or at least postponed it for a year or two. Still there were a few with the necessary staying qualities to grapple with the difficulties of making a settlement, even under these adverse circumstances.
In addition to those whose names have already been given .as coming in the summer and fall of 1866, were John and James Skirving\, Joseph Austin, W. S. Beers, John and Miles Strong and a few others in the south part of the county. In the north part of the county there came about this time L. W. Waugh, K. C. Low^ell, George C. Bellows, O. Crandall, Cur- tis Crandall, A. A, Mosher, Lauriston Mead, A. D. Arcy, Wil- liam and John Uptagr.aft, Chauncey and I^elson Read and a few others. About the same time, or perhaps a little earlier, Rev. Seymour Snyder filed a claim embracing the famous
HOMESTEADS AND PREEMPTIONS 319
ininer.al spring- on the west side of West Okoboji, wliicli was tlie first claim taken on that side of the hd<e. Shortly after Rev. W. A. Itichards settled near the north end of the lake.
The terms "Homestead Law" and "Preemption Law" have been nsed to some extent in these pages and it is possible their meaning is not as well known now as they were in pioneer days. Under the preemption law, a man, Ijy sending to the local land office, wdiich for this region was in Sionx City, one dollar and a notice stating that on a certain date he had en- tered npon ami improved a certain tract of government land and that he claimed the same as a preem})tion right, was en- titled to one year in which to prove np and make payment for the same on land that liad been offered foi'^ sale in the open market, and on land that had not been so offered, his right Avas good until it was proclaimed for sale. The price was one dollar and a quarter per acre, .although many procured sol- diers' land warrants or college scrip at prices ranging from seventy-five cents to a dollar an acre.
Under the homestead law, a man was required to pay an advance fee of ten dollars and file witlh the Register of the Land Office his affidavit that at a certain date he entered upon and claimed a certain tract of land under the provisions of the homestead act, giving the date. A person had six months in which to get to living on his homestead, and after five years' continuous residence, could prove up and perfect his title and the land was his.
Of course there were a great many details to both the home- stead and preemption laws that have not been given. The first settlers, those living around the lakes and groves, took their land under the preemption law, as the homestead law had not then been passed ; those coming later, under the homestead law, although when the latter went into effect a great many changed from preemption to homestead. The only oj^por-
320 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
tunity there lias ever been for buying government land by pri- vate entry in tliis county was about this time.
The manner of bringing land into market was for the Presi- dent to direct the Commissioner of the General Land Office to issue a ])r()elamation offering the land in certain townships for sale to the highest bidder for cash. This auction sale was kept open a certain number of days and while it lasted no land could be bought in any other manner than by bidding for it. After the close of the public sale the land was subject to entry at the standard price of one dollar and a quarter per acre.
All- of the land in this county except Center drove and Spirit Lake townships, had heen proclaimed for sale some time during Johnson's administration, and after the close of the public sale, was kept open for sale by private entry until 18G9 or 1870, when it was withdrawn to allow the railroads whose grants extended into the county to file their plats and have the land to which they were entitled by the terms of the grant certified to them. The two roads receiving grants of land in this county were the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Pail- road, then known as the McGregor & Sioux City, and the St. Paul, Minneapolis & Omaha, then known as the St. Paul & Sioux City.
Under the terms of their crant tliev were entitled to all of the odd numbered sections for a distance of ten miles on each side of their surveved line, but inasmuch as throuoh the east part of the state and as far west ,as the Des Moines Piver the land had lieen entered up previous to this time, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Company were granted as indemnity lands the odd numbered sections on an additional strip of an- other ten miles on each side of the line, which in effect gave them nearly all of the odd numbered sections in this county. At the time the land was withdrawn from private entry but few
RAILKOAD LANDS 321
entries had been made. The Davidson ranch of twenty-four hundred acres, southwest of Milford, was entered in 1868, .and Doctor Lewis of Mankato entered several sections Avest of the Sioux about the same time. A few minor entries were made by other parties, but the total amount of land that was entered by private parties up to that time .as an investment was but little more than half a township.
The Iowa Agricultural College located a few sections of its grant in this county, while Ringgold County located the in- demnity land which she received in lieu of her swamp land here. Thus it will be seen that taking out the railroad land, the college land, the school land, the indemnity land and the land sold at private entry, it left less than one-third of the public domain of the county subject to preemption and home- stead by settlers. As was before stated, the land wa.s with- drawn from sale to allow the railroad companies to file their plats and make their selections, and was never restored, thus leaving the balance, wh.atever it was, subject to settlement un- der the homestead law. '
It will 1)? impossible henceforth to give many details of events in the order of their occurrences as they would become too volum- inous and uninteresting. There are but few events in tlie later settlement of the country that can claim particular notice as be- ing more important than others occurring at the same time, or as being more than .an everyday occurrence in any locality. Even if it were desirable, there is neither time nor space to mention the settlers by name, to give the date of their settle- ment, the numbers of land claimed and other things which are sometimes given in works of this kind. Such details soon become monotonous and have but little interest for the gen- eral reader.
It w.as not until 1868 and 1869 that jDersons in search of a location would consent to settle on the prairie away from the
322 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
lakes and groves, and from that time until tlie vacant prairie was all taken np tlie settlement was qnite rapid. libmesteads were taken in all })arts of the connty and a general revival of life and activity was the result. During the summers of 1869 and 1870 ([uite a large colony ca^ine from the neighbor- hood of Ossian, in Winneshiek C'ountv. This was hron<>'ht about largely through the active efforts of A. L. Sawyer, C H. Ayers and a few others. Prominently among the arrivals of that period were A. ]\[. Johnson, \V. W. Stowe, William Vreeland, L. J. .and L. W. \"reelan(l, James and John Robb, H. C. and E. Freeman, T. Pegdon, C. E. West, R. C. and John Johnson, A. G. and G. E. Sawyer, L. E. Holcomb, Wiley Land>ert, Samuel Allen and nnm('rou< others. Most of the Winneshiek emigration settled in the northeast portion of the countv. Manv of them lef^t .ae'ain at the time of the ffrass- hopper raid two or three years later. They had been here just long enough to sj^end everything they had in opening new places and not long enough to realize anything from them.
Simultaneously wi^th this nn)vement from Winneshiek Gounty was another and similar one from Mitchell County. The leaders in this enterprise were James and John Kilpat- rick, Jx. 'B. and Glark ^icol, G. S. ISTeedham, Leonard and Ellis Smith, James TT. Bee'be, Benjamin Peck, Samuel Walker, Richard and Samuel Gampbell, D'. C. Moore and some fif- teen or twenty more from ^litchell County, together with a large number from other places. Prominent among these were G. Anderson, J. Sid, W. H. Anderson, R. K. Stetson, Samuel Bartlett, Robert Middleton and his sons, Henry, S. P. and George H. Middleton, H. Hj. Campbell and several others.
There were from thirty to fifty families connected with the movement. H. J. and Daniel Bennett have already been men- tioned .among the arrivals of 1560 and 1861. Soon after com-
EMIGRATION IN 1869 323
ing here D. Bennett enlisted and went south, where he served nntil discharged in 186-2. Upon his return II. J. enlisted in the Second Iowa Cavalrv and served to the close of the war. In 1868, they, together with Kov. Samuel Pillsburv, an- other of the earlier settlers, joined in the new settlement at Lakeville, wdiich soon became a decidedly lively neighborhood. A postothce was established and maintained for several years, with H. J. Bennett as postmaster, and a large schoolhouse built, which at the time was the largest in the comity. The center of this settlement was near the corner of the four town- ships, Lakeville, Excelsior, Okoboji and Westport. Probably no other settlement in the county was so utterly demoralized l\v the grasshopper raid as the one at Lakeville.
In Richland township the more prominent of the first set- tlers were E. V. Davis, W. B. Flatt, William Campbell, J. C. Davis, Randolph Freeman, David Farnham, G. W. and II. X. Morse, Jacob Groce, Gid Mott, ^N". J. Woodin, G. Patterson, F. iSr. Snow, Aaron Shultz and Simon Young. Most of these were here long enough to make substantial improvements and become identified with the after-growth of the place. ^lany others came in and made homestead claims, but either sold out or abandoned them without making much improvement. Of course this refers to the period j^revious to the grasshopper raid. There was a general change after that event. A few of these old timers as E. V. Davis, W. B. Flatt, Gid Mott and the family of A. Shultz .and possibly a few others have stayed by through all -the changes that have occurred since the first settlement, and have witnessed its development from a wild, desolate prairie to a prosperous agricultural community. The township was organized in 1872. The name was first sug- gested by 'W. B. Flatt and adopted by the township trustees.
The conditions attending the first settlement in Lloyd township, which was named after one of its first settlers, Johij
324 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Llovd, were similar to those already noted for lliclilauil. The first settlement was made in 1869, the early settlers being John B. Smith, John Lloyd, John 'Wilkinson and Ole Gilbert- son in the west part of the township, with Joseph Kinney, A. G. Saxe and J. Johnson on the nortli. Berg Bergeson and quite a colony of Norwegians occupied the east part. Other early settlers were J. S. Bingham, R. E. Ilaugen, A. Dodge, G. S. Randall, M. Chappell and several others. The Norwe- gians in the east part of the township transacted the most of their business at Estherville, so that they w^ere not as ^vell known here as the balance of the settlers.
The development of the township since the grasshopper in- vasion, although slow at first, li.as been stable and substantial. As before stated, the township was named for John Lloyd, one of its first settlers. Other prominent settlers in these townships at that thime were, in Lakeville, Samuel and T. Emerson, James Stinehart, John and Jake Snyder, George Edmunds and a few others, and in Westport, J. Lusian, C.
Ladd, Randall Root, J. Putnam, White ,and several
others whose stay was temporary.
Okoboji was one of the older towniships and its first settle- ment noticed farther back. Indeed all of the settlements for the first ten years w^ere confined to the three townships. Cen- ter Grove, Spirit Lake and Okoboji. The other nine were in 1868 and 1869, .although the boundaries were no't estab- lished until 1872. The name Lakeville is in consequence of the many small lakes in the township together with the fact that I West Okoboji forms almost the entire eastern boundary. H. J. Bennett and J. Heldridge are responsible for the name. G. Anderson first suggested Excelsior as a proper name for that township. R. A. Smith is responsible for naming Oko- boji, and Seymour, Eoster & Company, Milford. Center Grove was the name applied to the princijDal grove in the
EMIGRATION IX 1H69 325
township long before it was applied to the township at large. The name Silver Lake was applied to the lake by the old trap- pers long before a name was wanted for the towmship. On the contrary Diamond Lake was named by the first settlers, as that n.ame was not known among the trappers.
Diamond Lake was first settled in 1869 and 1870. The first settlers were M. \W. Lemmon, P. P. Pierce, P. K'elson, A. J. Welch, O. |W. Savag-e, O. Sanford, Peter Viek, J. T., J. K. and IL Tuttle, William and L. II. Vreeland, G. Horn, S. W. Harris and several others. A. J. Welch w.as a veteran of the Mexican war. So far as known, he and Christopher Davidson of Center Grove were the only Mexican veterans settling in this county. But few of the firgit settlers survived the grasshoppers. The more prominent of these w^ere M. W. Lemmon, the Vreelands, the Horns, Peter Vick, A. J. Welch and possibly one or two others. Of the settlement and growth of the township since that time, it will be impossible to Avrite in detail.
The first set^tlement in Superior township was made as early as 1867 by Robert McCulla .and his sons. He was soon followed by others in the southeast corner of the township. Mr. McCulla had the distinction of having the largest family ever residing in the county, he having a't one time twenty- three living children. Estherville was the trading place of these first settlers in the east part of the township. Promi- nent among those who came a little later were R. S. Hopkins, Oscar jSTorby, Gilbert Anderson, Alfred Davis, M. and C. Reiter, John Morgan, Fred Jacobs and possibly some others.
A few of these old timers, R. S. Hopkins, O. ^orby and a few otliers, are still living on the old places. Some have passed over the river and their homesteads remain in the possession of surviving members of the family. In addition to those already mentioned, there were a large number that took
326 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
claims and some liad Imilt pretty fair liouscs, that is, fair foi" that time, but during the grasshop})er visitation they weakened and either abandoned their places or sold ont for what they conld get, which in most instances was little enough. The town was organized in 1872. It is su})pos'er| R. S. Hopkins is re- S])onsible for the name. He, together with (lilbert Anderson, liobert McC'nlla, O. Xorby and the Evcretts, who came a lit- tle later, were in some way connected with all the early enter- prises incident to the growth and development of the town- ship.
To persons settling on the open ])rairie the fuel question was an .all imjiortant one. At first it was the practice of those who took up claims on the ])rairie to buy a tind)er lot of from one to live acres aud cnt the tind)er off as their necessities required. In this manner most of the groves were divided up and their timber taken off. This practice accounts for many of the care- less, irregular and perplexing descriptions with which the county records are encumbered. A man who wanted to buy a Avooil lot would go to the owner, and together they would pace it off from some known corner. Then they would make a description which they thoughti would cover it, and a deed would be made, the purchaser caring little what his title was or \vhether his descri])tion was correct or not so long ,as he was not disturlK'(l while taking off the tindjer. These lots were afterwards sold for a mere nominal sum. The three acres com])rising the Okoboji Cemetery were purchased for $2.50. These careless descriptions and titles have since then been the source of much vexation. But some were not able to buy tim- ber lots, and those that were found that when thev lived from five to fifteen miles from their tind)er |)atch it required a vast amount of hard work to keep up their needed su]2ply of fuel. In many instances it was necessary to leave home before daylight in the morning, taking the ''little dinner ]^ail"
THE FUEL QUESTION 327
along, work all <la_v preparing ,a load of wood, and then, if they succeeded in reaching home in the early evening, they had made a pretty good day of it.
But it was to those who hadn't the timber lot nor means to buy fuel that the country was indebted for a practical solution of the fuel proldem. The use of prairie hay for fuel origi- nated in this county and was practiced to a limited extent as early as 1870, but its use never became so general here as in Osceola and O'Brien Counties. At first thought it would seem impossible to maintain existence, and much less to enjoy any comfort from it, with nothing but prairie hay for fuel, but necessity is am apt teacher and the frontiersman a quick learner.
In a short time the art of twisting hay for fuel came to be an acknowledged accomplishment. After throwing a lock of coarse slough hay upon the ground, placing the left foot upon itj and then with the right hand taking enough of the coarse grass to make .a rope of the required size, twisting it hard and drawing it out at the same time until it had reached the re- qTiired length, then it was coiled back upon itself and the ends neatly secured, thus resembling in shape an enormous old- fashioned Xew England doughnut. In many families it came to be a part of the dailv routine to twist hav enough, in the evening to answer for the following day's fuel. The litter which the use of it caused was something to which it was difh- cult for the neat and thrifty housewife to accustom herself, but in the language of a sturdy boy of that period, "Iti was a heap better than freezing."
One thrifty inventor thought to make his fortune by invent- ing a hav twister, Avhich, bv the wav, did verv 2;ood Avork. Another invented a stove for burning hay under pressure which was really a success and would have gone into pretty general use but for the fact that building railroads through
328 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
tlie country brouglit down the price of coal and enhanced the price of hay so that burning coal was the cheapest.
Burning corn was also practiced in some localities. Corn on the cob makes an excellent fuel^ comparing well with either wood or co.al, and with the low prices prevailing in many places in the IWest, was as cheap as anything, yet there were many who found it hard to reconcile themselves to burning corn for fuel. Many can remember the adverse criticisms in- dulged in by writers in the eastern papers condemning the wastefulness of the western people in using an article of food for that purpose. A moment's consideration will illustrate how senseless these criticisms were. In using corn for fuel they were using an article that one season would reproduce, while the wanton destruction of the eastern forests that is con- tinually going on cannot be remedied in a hundred years and probably never will be.
Another makeshift of this period was the sod shanty, .and it is truly wonderful the amount of genius tha^t may be expend- ed in the construction of a sod shanty. There was as much difference in the construction, appearance and arrangement of the sod shanties of those times as has been expended on the more pretentious residences that have succeeded them. Some had the rare faculty of endowing these primitive abodes with an air of comfort, convenience and even neatness, so as to give them a real homelike appearance. Others remained what they were at first, simply a hole in the ground. But the sod shanty era Avas of short duration. The opening up of the country by building railroads through it, placed building ma- terial within reach of the settlers, ,and as soon as circumstances would permit, the sod shanty was replaced by a more preten- tious abode, but the memorv of life in a sod shantv, with twist- ed hay for fuel, will be among the early recollections of many who now rank among the more prominent and progressive citi- zens of northwestern low.a.
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CIIAPTEEl XXVI. .
TILE Srorx CITY & ST. PAUL KAILROAD THE
BUILDING OF THE MIEFORD jVtlLLS SEVERAL
CONTROVERSIES THE LEVEL OF THE WATER IX
TIIK LAKES THE COURTHOUSE BURNED AN- OTHER ONE BUILT ON THE SAME SITE.
T 'AVILL be remembered that the passage of the hiw gTaiiting hind for the bnilding of the St. Paid & Sioiix C'ity Railroad was what" first attracted tlie atten- tion of the early settlers to this county and induced them to make their selections here. The first grant applied exclusively to Minnesota and did not afi^ect Iowa at all, but in 1865 Congress passed another law granting the Sioux City & St. Paul road through Iowa the same subsidies that w-ere granted to the St. Paul & Sioux Citv road tliroui>h ]\Iinne- sota ten years before. Originally two companies controlled that line. The Minnesota end of the line was known, as the St. Paul & Sioux Citv road, while the Iowa end was known as the Sioux City & St. Paul road. This was due to tHiie fact that neither state would turn its grant over to a foreign company, but insisted on having a resident company ; accord- ingly, when the low.a grant was made a local company was organized in Sioux City with J. C. C. Hoskins, president, and S. T. Davis, secretary, for the develoj)ment of the Iowa end of the line. The two roads were afterwards consolidated.
A law was also passed at this time granting a subsidy of land for building the McGregor & Western road, which became a part of the Chicago,", Milwaukee & St. Paul system. The prospect of the early completion of' these roads gave quite an impetus to emigration. The St. Paul & Sioux City Com-
THE SIOUX CITY & ST. PAUL R. R.
331
pany, in locating their line, found tliat tliey could get a larger quantity of land by swinging around to the west, and accordingly did so, thus passing through Osceola County in- stead of this, as w.as the original expectation. The road was completed in the fall of 1871 and for the next eight years, or until the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul was completed to' Spencer, stations on that route were the nearest railroad points for the people of this county. 'The inhabitants in the north part of the county divided their patronage about equally be- tween Worth ington, Sibley and Windom, the distance to either place being about the same. The south part of the county transacted their business almost entirely at Sibley. This sta^te of affairs continued in force until the building of the Chicago, Milwaukee (^- St. Paul, the main line of which w,as built through Spencer in the fall of 1878.
In the early days this county w.as noted for the fine quality of wheat raised here, but inasmuch as there were no mills short of Mankato or Fort Dodge, but little attention was given to its production. As the population increased the want of a good flouring mill was keenly felt. It was generally be- lieved that the outlet to the lakes w^ould furnish a sufficient water power for that purpose. Indeed an attempt was made to improve it as early as 1861 by J. S. Prescott and Henry Meeker, who Avent as far as to put up a frame and get in the machinery for a first-class mill, l)ut getting discouraged at the time of the Indian raid of 1862 and the extremely low water occasioned by the drouth of that and the following year, they sold off the machinery and abandoned the project, and the country had to depend upon the distant points for breadstuffs.
In the fall of 1868, Mr. A. D. Foster of Hudson, Wiscon- sin, in company with Frank Boyd of Humboldt County in this state, visited this place in search of a location for erect- ing a flouring mill. Mr. Foster had been traveling extensive-
332 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
ly through northwestern Iowa and southern Minnesota in search of a snitable location for that purpose, and not having found anything that fully suited him, he had about given ^^]^ the object of his search when he fell in company with Frank Bovd at Fort Dodge. Mr. Bovd had vi-sited the vicinity of the lakes the June previous and had noticed the fact that their out- let would probably furnish a water power of more than ordinary value. After making the acquaintance of Mr. Foster he tohl him of his trip to the lakes and induced him to go up there and make an examination for himself, at the same time offering to accompany him on the trij). They arrived here some time in the month of Sep- tember and Mr. Foster was so well pleased with the appear- ance of the country at large and with the water power afforded by the lakes that he decided to look no further but to locate here and commence operations as soon as possible. He imme- diately returned to Wisconsin, where he made the necessary preparations and returned here some time in the month of October, when he made his selection of a location and com- menced operations at once. The site selected had previously been taken as a homestead, but afterwards abandoned. Mr. A. D. Inman and .Wallace Smith were the only persons living in that locality.
The labor and expense necess.ary for the accomplishment of an enterprise of that kind was a different thing then from what it would be at present. Labor was high and provisions remarkably dear. The nearest railway station was at Man- kato, and everything had to be transported by team from there. Again, the nature of the ground required the work to be done on .a more extensive scale than Avas at first contem- plated and the fact soon became apparent to Mr, Foster that the expense of getting the mill into operation would be more than double his original estimate and greater than he was
THE MILFORD MILL 333
}it that time prepared to meet. To abandon the enterprise would be to lose the considerable amount already expended and also to relinquish what promised to be, if properly de- veloped, one of the biggest things in the JSTorthwest ; while to proceed was to subject himself to uninterrupted toil, priva- tion, anxiety and embarrassment. He decided to .accept the latter .alternative and take the chances. The people in that locality were much interested and favored the project by every means in their power. Mr. R. R. Wilcox had charge of build- ina; the mill.
The sawmill was put in operation July 4, 1869, .and tihe gristmill in the December follow^ing. The success of the mills was complete from the start. The flouring mill commanded work from a range of country nearly seventy miles in every direction and it was no uncommon occurrence for thirty or forty teams to be camped there at a time waiting their turns for getting their grists and it finally became necessary to have their grists registered months in advance. Of course, this state of affairs was a harvest for the proprietors and they soon succeeded in relieving themselves of the embarrassment occasioned by the extra cost and outlay to which they had sub- jected themselves in thus exceeding their original plan.
A question out of which has grown a considerable strife and contention is the right of the mill company to maintain .an auxiliary dam for the purpose of regulating the flow of water. The very first act of Mr. Foster when he commenced operations for building his mill w^as to throw a dam across the outlet at the foot of the lake so as to stop the flow of water. The season being dry and the water low, this' was an easy job. A half day with two or three men and a team was suflicient to accomplish it. But during the Avinter there were heavy snows followed by heavy rains in the spring, thereby causing a material rise in the lakes, and Foster was obliged to
334 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
build np and strengtlien his upper ilaiii aecnrdingly. This state of affairs eontiinu'd two or three rears, ,:it the end of whieh time the mill com])aiiv had a strong- (hun in there some six or seven feet high and solid in proportion.
At the first Mr. Foster had no thought of maintaining this upper dam permanently hut simply put it in as a protection for his main work while building, with the intention of re- moving it as soon as his main dam was completed. Hut the high water of two or three seasons about tluit time soon made it evident that they were at any time lial)le to be ovcn-whehned with more Avater than they had made provision for, .and con- sequently the upper dam was allowed to remain.
Just previous to this time Stimpson luul been overhauling the "old red mill" on the isthmus, and had just commenced business when the sudden and unparalleled rise in the lower lake so backed the water into his race that he claimed it ma- terially affected the efficiency of liis water power and presented a claim to Foster for damages. Foster did not acknowledge the validity of his claim, but rather than go into court at that time, he compromised with him. In addition to the money consideration, one of the conditions of this compromise was that the lower lakes should be drawn down to a certain point by the first day of September. A dry summer following the wet spring made this part of the sti])ulation possible; but this was only the commencement of the trouble.
As has been before stated, Stimpson in 1870 disposed of his mill on the istlmms to O. ('om]:)ton, who overhauled it, putting in entirely new machinery. But his wheel was so large and the head so low that it took a perfect flood of Avater to run it, and soon Spirit Lake began to draw down, while Okoboji was higher than ever. Compton now made his claim for dauuiges Ijv "backwater."
SEVERAL CONTROVERSIES 335
This tlie owners of the Milford iniTl refused to allow. They saw that they would soon be compelled to take a stand and defend themselves and they might as well do it then as any time, and so refused all terms of compromise. This so en- raged Compton's friends that a party of them, some fifteen or twenty strong, went down for the purpose of destroying the upper dam. They filled ,a jug with powder, attached a piece of fuse thereto, and ])lacing it under the planking of the waste gate, they succeeded in blowing it out. The mill company at once put on a force of men and soon had the dam so far repaired as to liave everything safe once more. In a short time Compton's men came down a second time and tore out tlie dam, this time more thoroughly than before. Again the mill company put on men and repaired the damages. Tn this way the contention was kept up for some time, l)ut fin.ally it began to be aj^parent that the isthmus water powder was a fail- ure. When tlie lake was drawn down it was too long filling up.
After the controversy between the owners of the two mills was closed, parties owming land bordering on the lake began to claim damages by reason of their low land being overflowed, or the banks of their land being caved off by the action of the water. There were several cases of this kind, but only one of them ever came to trial in the courts. Th.at was the one of B. B. Van Steenburg, which was stubbornly contested by both sides, and finally decided in favor of the mill company, ^'an Steenburg appealed to the supreme court, where the de- cision of the district court was afiirmed, but this decision did not decide anything, from the fact that the supreme court in rendering it said that the testimony was so conflicting that they did not feel justified in disturbing the decision of the lower court.
336 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Several other cases were in process of being worked up, luit this decision by the supreme court discouraged them and thej were never brought to triaL In the meantime the upper (lam has been destroyed and rebuilt at pretty regular inter- vals by different parties as their intete§ts seemed to dictate, Avliile the vexed question of rights of parties is just as far from being settled as ever and public opinion shifts from one >ide of the question to the other just as the water in the lakes shifts from high to low .and back again. For the last few years the continued dry seasons have so affected the stage of water in the lakes that it is difficult to believe that for years they afforded a water power of great value. But such was the case nevertheless.
'The question of the rise and fall and average level of the v\'ater in the lakes is one that has first and last attracted a great deal of attention and caused a great deal of speculation. The question is of such importance that every known fact lending in any w.ay to make the subject better understood be- comes at once both interesting and valuable. LT^^on the ar- rival of the first settlers here after the massacre in the spring of 1857 the water in the Okobojis was ju^t about at the me- dium level between high and low water. It Avill be remem- bered that this was immediately after the "hard winter" when the entire northwest part of the state was covered with from three to five feet of snow. There was also the usual fall of rain that spring. These conditions under ordinary circum- «itances would cause a rise in the lakes of from two and a half to three feet. The conclusion is therefore irresistible that the lakes were very low the fall before.
Again, the s.andbar at the south end of the Okoboji bridge was from two to three rods wide and covered with a black alluvial soil on which was a rank growth of vegetation such as gooseberry bushes, prickly ash, wild roses and wild grape vines,
THE LEVEL OF THE LAKES 337
while along the central or luglier part there was a growth of trees some of which must have been from twenty-five to forty years old. It is absolutely certain that the water had not swept across this bar for a great many years previous to that time.
In Center Lake there is a small island which was at that time under water and covered with dead timber. The water in which the trees were standing was from six inches to three feet deep. The timber was principally ironwood, white a-h iand cottonwood. It had evidently been dead from two to ii\^e years. In several of the small lakes northwest of Spirit Lake, the same conditions existed. There were in all several acres of dead timber standing in the water. During the succeeding win- ter most of the settlers Avho wintered here depended largely on this dry wood for fuel. One man had two yoke of cattle shod on purpose to haul this dry wood across Spirit Lake. The loads he hauled were something marvelous.
'Now the question is when, and under what circumstances, did this timber grow? It didn't grow in the water. That's certain, and yet some of the dead trees were standing in fully three feet of water, and that, too, with the lakes' below ,a me- dium level. Governor Carpenter visited the lakes in the sum- mer of 1855, which was before there was any settlement here whatever. In giving an account of this trip, he always insisted that he drove his mules across the straits where the Okoboji bridge now is and that the water wasn't more than two feet deep. Now all of these circumstances go to prove that during the early part of the present century the water in the lakes was low and had remained so for a series of years.
The summer of 1858 was a very wet one, and as a conse- quence the lakes were high, evidently higher than they had been for a great many years. The water made a breach over the bar at the south end of the bridge for the first time. From
338 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
tliat time on and until 1881 there wei'e wet seasons and there were dry seasons, the wet ones predominating, and as a con- sequence the lakes gradually were rising. The summer of 1866 was a j)henomenally wet summer and the lakes were corre- spondiniilv lii«h ; hii>lu'r than at any-time since the first set- tlement, but it was not until .about 1872 or 1873 that the last of the trees and vegetation on the bar south of the bridge was entirely washed away. Of course there were some dry sum- mers sandwiched in between the wet ones. For instance, the summer of 1863 was a remarkably dry one.
The county has l)uilt a grade about four feet high the whole lens'th of the sandbar. Had the lakes remained as they were previous to 1857 this would have been wholly unnecessary. The lakes reached their highest level in the summer of 1881. As many fears were expressed then that all of the low land was going to be overflowed and the lake shores washed away and ruined as there has since been that the lakes are gradually drying up. Since then there have been dry seasons and wet seasons, the dry ones predominating, and the water in the lakes gradually growing lower until in 1898 they reached the lowest level known since the first settlement of the county. A careful examination of the lake shore at the time of the high M^ater of 1881 showed conclusively that the water had ^ as high before. But when ? The ridges of sand and gravel th,at had been thrown up by the ]irevious high water were clearly traceable and possessed that peculiar appearance which only the action of waves can give, while the line of boulders at the water's edge were piled up as only the action of the ice could pile them.
These circumstances must be taken as proof ])ositive that the water has been up there before. Taking all these proofs into consideration, we are irresistibly forced to the conclusion that the lakes through a long series of years pass from th'ir
THE LEVEL OF THE LAKES 339
highest level to the lowest and then back again, and that this process has been going on for centuries. When for a series of years we have more than the normal rainfall, the lakes gradually rise, .and on the other hand, when for a series of years we have less than normal, the lakes go down.
How much the cultivation of the adjacent land affects the rise and fall of the water in the lakes, we cannot determine. Of course it affects it some, l)ut then again, the building of the dam across the outlet at the lower end of the lakes to sto]) the flow or waste, except in times of high water, counterbal- ances that somewhat so that it can be safely claimed that the theory that the lakes are gradually drying up is not in accord- ance with known facts any more than would be the theory that onr rainfall is gradually diminishing, and that the prai- ries of northwestern Iowa are destined in the near future to become a barren desert. Some of the bays and shallow parts of the lake are filling with aqu,atic veg-etation to some extent, which, with the soil washed from adjacent land, may eventu- ally change the contour of the lakes somewhat, but this is a remote contingencv.
One drawback that the mills on the outlet .always had to contend with was that the lake being quite shallow where it narrowed up to form the stream, the ice in very cold weather would freeze to the bottom and prevent the flow, thus shutting off the supply of water. The result was that the mills were compelled to shut dowm in the latter part of winter, even in times when there would have been plenty of water except for the ice.
Several dry seasons now following each other in succession, the water supply so far failed that it could not be depended on when most needed and the mills were compelled to put in steam power, which they did about 1886. In 1806 the state built a dam across the outlet jui^t below the lower end of Gar
340 DICKIKSON COUNTY - IOWA
Lake, in order to prevent the flow of w.ater from the lake until it reaches a given level. This was done to promote the fish- ing interest.
Another event worthv of note as occurring during this peri- od is the burning of the courthouse, which took place in Feb- ruary, 1872. The origin of the fire is unknown. The upper story was occupied and used as a school room at that time, and a singing school was hold there the night of the fire. The rec- ords in the recorder's office were fortunately saved, but those of the treasurer and clerk of the district court were mostly destroyed. At the time it was burned the courthouse was in- sured in the Mississippi Valley Insurance Company. The company was immediately notified and payment demanded. This was refused on the ground 'that the building had been used for other purposes than were mentioned in the policy. LTj)on the refusal of the company to make payment, suit was brought against them by the county. The company took a change of venue to CTay County, where the case was tried and the county obtained judgment for something over $2,600. The company .appealed, when the judgment was reversed and the case sent back for a new trial. Pending the trial the maitter ■\vas compromised between the Board of Supervisors and the Insurance ('(imi)anv at .about fiftv cents on the dollar.
After the burning of the courthouse the question of removal of the county seat was discussed in some quarters, but the ]novement was not strong enough to lead to any practical re- suits. An endeavor was made by parties in the south part of the county to prevent rebuilding on the old site, but it was not lieartily supported and a contract was let to T. L. Twiford for rebuilding upon the old foundation according to plans and specifications furnished by him. This was done in the sum- mer of 1872 and it was taken possession of by. the county anthorities the ensuing fall.
CHAlPTER XXVII.
A PERIOD OF PKOSPEEITY- POSTOFFICE AT LAKE-
VILLE AND LAKE PARK THE GRASSHOPPER RAID
OF 1873 WHERE THEY CAME FROM VIEWS OF
D. A. W. PERKINS THEIR DEPREDATIONS EX- TRACT FROM J. A. smith's PAMPHLET THE
SEED GRAIN QUESTION THE LEGISLATURE AP- PEALED TO THEY APPROPRIATE $50,000 TO
BUY SEED GRAIN COMMISSIONERS FOR DISTRIBU- TION $15,000 COVERED BACK INTO THE TRE^iS-
URY SOME "too PROUD TO BEG" THE EXPERI- MENT A FAILURE — -THE YOUNG HOPPERS THAT
HATCH IN THE SPRING DESTROY EVERYTHING
GREAT DESTITUTION.
T HAS BEFORE been stated that the period from 1868 to 1873 was a period of the most general prosperity en- joyed by the early settlers. The development of the country was a/t this time quite rapid. The vacant land was all claimed under either the homestead or preemption laws and was being improved as fast as the limited means of the settlers would permit. A daily mail had been established from Spencer to Jackson and other mail facilities had been secured in other regions sufHcient for their immediate wants. A post- office had been established at Lakeville, where a lively settle- ment had sprung up and another one .at Silver Lake. All of the congressional townships in the county were organized as civil townships. Schoolhouses were built and educational fa- cilities provided for on a scale of the greatest liberality, and people were beginning to feel that ,a period of prosperity was opening before them, and were looking forward with high hopes
342 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
;iiul l)riiilit aiiticii)ations for the gv,0(l tinip coniiiiff for wliicli they had waited so h)iii>- and hd^ored so hard : when tlicv shonhl realize a substantial reward for the ni.any dangers they had braved, the hardships and privations they had endnred and the obstacles they had overcome and snrmonnted.
All tliis Avas beginning to seem a thing of the past; a n<'w era was dawning which bade fair to gladden the hearts of those staunch pioneers who had devoted the energies of their youth and strength cd' their manhood to the work of opening up and develo]dng this, one of the fairest regions God's sun ever shone upon, f(ir the occu])ancy and enjoyment of those who slionld come .after them. But from this dream of happiness and pros- perity of growth and development the infant settlement was destined to a rude and rough awakening.
The summer of I8T0 will ever be memorable in the annals of northwestern Iowa as being the time when tliat terrible scourge, the .army of grasshoppers first commenced their depre- dations upon a scale that threatened to interfere to a material extent with the growth and prosperity of the country. The extent of the calamitv which befell this countrv in the grass- hopper raid of 1873 to 1877 has never been fully compre- hended or understood except by the immediate sufferers. The almost total loss of four successive crops in any agricultural country would he considered a calamity that it would require years to recover from, yet that was just what befell the coun- ties of northwestern Iowa at this period.
Previous to this time there had been two invasions of the grasshopper into northwestern Iowa, neither of which did much damage or created much alarm so far north as this county. In 1867 and 1868 they were quite thick in the neighborhood of Sioux Citv and up the Flovd Vallev. That season thev came as far north as the southern portion of this county, but it was so late in the season that the damage clone by them at that
THE GRASSHOPPER INVASION 343
time was inconsiderable. That season they also did a vast deal of damage in Humboldt, Webster, Hamilton and Greene Coun- ties, and other places between the Des Moines and Missonri Rivers.
The army grasshopper, or as it is sometimes more appro- priately designated, the Rocky Monntain locust, is indigenous to the barren table lands along the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains. D. A. W. Perkins, in duscussing this question in the history of Osceola County, says :
"In Wyoming, western Nebraska, Texas, the Indian Terri- tory and New Mexico, the broods were .annually hatched. In their native haunts they attained an enormous size, many spec- imens being three inches in length. Scientific men who have studied the hal)its of the grasshoppers state that each succeed- ing brood degenerates in size and after three or four generations the weaker are obliged to swarm and seek other quarters, being driven out by the larger and stronger insects. These exiles rise and go with the wind, keeping the direction in which they first started, stopping in their flight for subsistence and depos- iting eggs in a prolific manner during the incubating season, which lasted from the middle of June to the middle of Septem- ber."
The advance guard of this invading army first put in an appearance in this county about the middle of June, 1873, coming from the southwest. The first seen of them was ,a huge black cloud which was none other than a huge swarm of grass- hoppers. Their movements were accompanied by a dull roaring or buzzing sound that terrified the ears. Thev swarmed in such vast numbers ,as to obscure the light of the sun, giving every- thing that weird, sombre look that is .always noticed during a solar eclipse. The phenomenon of stars being visible in the dav time, bv reason of the obscuritv of the sun, was observed by many. The buzzing, roaring sound by which their flight was accompanied was ominous of approaching disaster. They settled down on the fields of growing grain in such numbers
344 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
that it soon became evident that nothing eonld esea})e their ravages. They semed endowed^ with iin intnition or unerring instinct that directed tlieni to the nearest grain fields, no matter in -whicli direction they were located. If l)y chance they hap- pened to alight on the nncnltivated prairie a movement would immediately commence in the direction of the nearest growing fields. Their first appearance was alarming and their devas- tations were appalling.
These grasshoppers had crossed the Missouri River and com- menced foraging in the bordering Iowa counties, devouring evervthino; as thev went. Bv harvest time there was but little left to harvest and that of an inferior quality. The grass- hoppers deposited their eggs in countless numbers. The greater portion of the land under cultivation was thoroughly impreg- nated with them. Land tliat had bi'en cleared of all vegetation suited them best. In such places the number of eggs that would be deposited on ,a given surface ^vas thoroughly astounding. These eggs were in cells containing from twenty-five to fifty each and were deposited about half an inch beneath the surface. They were deposited in the late summer and early fall months and remainc^d on the ground during the winter, when they were hatched out in 'the spring by the warm rays of the sun acting upon the sandy surface of the ground. The more sand in the soil the earlier they hatched out and the more vigorous the "hoppers." The following extracts from J. A. Smith's pam- phlet on northwestern Iowa conveys a very intelligent idea of the situation :
"Early in the spring of 1874 the eggs deposited the season before commenced h.atching and the soil looked literally alive ■with insignificant looking insects a quarter of an inch in length but possessing great vitality and surprising appetites. As if bv instinct their first movements were toward the fields where tender shoots of grain were making their modest appearance. Sometimes the first intimation a farmer Avould have of what
THE GRASSHOPPER INVASION 345
was going on wonkl be from noticing along one side of his field a narrow strip where the grain was missing. At first perhaps lie wonkl attribnte it to a balk in sowing, bnt each day it grew wider and a closer examination wonld reveal the presence of myriads of vonng grasshoppers. As spring advanced it be- came evident that comparatively few eggs had been deposited in the territory that had snffered the worst in ISTo. They had been laid fnrther east. In Kossnth, Emmet, Dickinson and P.alo Alto Connties in Iowa, and in ^lartin and Jackson Conn- ties, Minnesota, the yonng ones were hatched ont in far greater numbers than elsewhere.
'^The early part of the season was extremely dry; no rain fell nntil the middle of -Tnne. Grain did not grow, bnt the grasshoj)pers did, and before the dronth ended the cro])s in the connties named were eaten and parched beyond all hope of recovery. Abont the middle of Jnne, however, a considerable rain fell and, ontside of the before mentioned connties, the prospects were generally favorable for good crops. The yonng grasshoppers commenced to get wings abont the middle of Jnne and in a few days they began to rise and fly. The pros- pect seemed good for a. speed}' riddance of the pests, bnt Provi- dence had ordained otherwise. The perverse insects were wait- ing for an easterly wind and the perverse wind blew from the sonthwest for nearly three weeks, a phenomenon of rare occnr- rence in this region, as it very seldom ])lows from one qnai^ter more than three davs .at a time. Dnrine; this time the o-rass- hoppers were almost constantly on the move. Straggling swarms fonnd their way to central Iowa doing, however, bnt little damage.
"Abont the tenth or twelfth of Jnlv the wind changed to the east and as by common consent the conntless mnltitnde took their deiiartnre westw.ard. Up to this time the crops had been damaged bnt slightly in the western connties bnt dnring the two or three days of their flight the grain fields in these connties were injnred to qnite an extent. After tlie date above men- tioned, with one or two nnimportant exceptions, no grasshoppers were seen.
"There is no evidence that this region was visited in 1ST4 by foreign swarms, thongh it has been stated that snch was the fact. On the contrary there is every reason for believing thev were all hatched here. According to the most reliable informa- tion the grasshoppers hatelied here prodncod no eggs and the
346 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
inference is tliat they were incapable of so doing. They were much smaller than their predecessors and besides they were covered with parasites in the shape of little red bugs wdiich made sad havoc in their ranks. What became of them after leaving here seems .a mystery, but probably their enfeebled con- stitutions succumbed to the attacks of the parasites and the depleting effects of general debility."
This grasshopj)er raid was very discouraging to the country and interfered materially with its progress.
It will be remembered that during the four years previous to 1874, a heavy tide of emigration had l)ccn constantly pour- ing in. During that time all of the vacant government land in the county had 1)een taken l)y settlers mostly under the homestead act. This land was principally prairie, the timber land hav- ing been previously taken. Like the pioneers of .all new coun- tries these later comers were mostly poor men and the best of them had barely enough to tide them over from the time of taking their homesteads to such time as they would be able to open up their claims and raise a crop. They had just com- menced to open their farms and were dependent upon their crops for subsistence. Wliat would have been in older localities a serious misfortune was to them absolute ruin. The result was great destitution and the necessitv in the more recentlv settled neighborhoods of asking for outside assistance. The situation, however, was not so desperate in this county as it was in the counties to the west of here .and most of the out- side aid sent to this portion of the state went to O'Brien, Osceola, Sioux and Lyon Counties.
One of the serious aspects of the case was the seed grain question. The legislature being in session an appeal was made to them for state assistance in the matter of securing the neces- sary seed. In answer to this appeal a bill w.as passed and be- came a law appropriating fifty thousand dollars to aid in that
STATE APPROPRIATION FOR SEED GRAIN 347
matter. Under the provisions of the bill .a commission was appointed whose duty it was to make a thorough investigation of all of the conditions and circumstances of the case and then take such action as the exigencies demanded. The names of the commissioners so appointed were Hon. Tasker of Jones County, Dr. Levi Fuller of Fayette and Hon. O. B. Brown of Van Buren. After a thorough investigation of the matter, they decided to purchase and distribute seed directly to the settlers. Local committees were .appointed to assist the com- mission in their work. The distribution for Dickinson and Osceola Counties was made at Sibley. They adopted a list of questions that each applicant was required to answer in writ- ing and from these answers the commissioners decided whether the applicant was entitled to relief or not, and if so his portion Avas dealt out to him.
Each applicant received about fifteen bushels of seed wheat, besides some seed corn and garden seeds. A considerable quan- tity of garden seeds was also distributed by the general gov- ernment through the Interior Department. About one hundred applications for seed grain were answered from this county. A good many wdio w^ould have been entitled to aid under the pro- visions of the law were too proud to make the application. They had passed through hard times before and the same self- denial would take them through again. There was about fifteen thousand dollars of the appropriation left after the distribution was completed and this was covered back into the state treas- ury. But the well meant efforts of the state to relieve the sit- uation were unavailing. As has been before stated the grow- ing crops were destroyed by the myriads of young grasshoppers a?| fast as they made their appearance .above the surface.
After the departure of the grasshoppers in 1874 our people experienced a sense of relief and hoped that they would not again be visited by the plague for years, if ever. The loss of
348 DICKINSON COUMY - IOWA
the greater portion of tlieir crops for two years in succession imposed a burden npon tlieni lieavv to be borne, but they had passed the ordeal and now with fortune favoring them in the future they hoped to recover a portion of what they had hjst. ]\Iany had been obliged to mortgage their^farms to keep tlieir families from suffering while all were compelled to practice a degree of economy and self-denial to wliich thev had formerlv been strangers.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE SECOND INVASION THE DESTRUCTION
GREyVTER THAN EVER WHOLE NEIGHBORHOODS
ABANDONED EXTRACT FROM GOVERNOR CARPEN-
TEr's ARTICLE IN "^^THE ANNALs" GRASSHOPPERS
BLOCK RAILROAD TRAINS GENERAL N. B. BAKER
HIS EFFORTS IN BEHALF OF GRASSHOPPER SUF- FERERS IMPAIR HIS HEALTH HIS VISIT TO
SPIRIT LAKE NEWSPAPER GOSSIP.
HE YEAR 1875 was marked by no event wortliv of par- ticular mention. The farms that year proved remark- ably productive, and excepting a portion of the crops that were badly damaged by the long-continued rains in the months of August and September, the season would have proved a remarkably jirosperous one. The people were begin- ning to look once more with hope to the future. But they were again doomed to disappointment. The grasshopper scourge through which they had just passed such a dreadful experience, and which they fondly hoped had left them forever, again made its appearance in the summer of 1ST6 in greater numbers than ever, this time coming from the northwest instead of the south- west.
The details of this invasion are so similar to the one of three years before that they need not lie repeated. The grasshoppers came in greater numbers than ever .and their devastations were more general. This time no effort was made to secure outside relief. Manv of the settlers who had been ol)lis;ed to mortsaffe their homes to tide them over the first period of destitution now gave up the struggle and disposed of their places for what they could get, which Avas not nuich. Many realized nothing in
350 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
addition to the encumbrances already on them. Whole neigh- borhoods were depopulated. The settlement at Lakeville ftir- nishes the most conspicuous instance of this kind. Over lifty homesteads had been taken and were occupied in that immedi- ate vicinity at the time the grasshoppera struck them in 1873. Of these not more than half a dozen were occupying their places when the grasshoppers disappeared in 1877.
What was true of Lakeville w.as equally true of other neigli- borhoods, though perhaps not to quite so marked an extent, as the number of newcomers about Lakeville was greater at that time than any other point and the abandonment of their claims more general. The insects made their final flig*ht in July, 1877, since which time they have not infested the country to any noticeable extent. They destroyed the crops here in 1873, 1874, 1870 and 1877, the last year being the worst of all. In Osceola County the reverse wvas true, the first year being the most disastrous, but here the last year was worse. The grass- hopper questions furnished .a fruitful topic for newspaper writers, and many articles, wise and otherwise, were inflicted on a long suffering public. The following from the Sioux City Journal will serve as an examj)le. It is quite certain that had the writer thereof ever tried or seen tried the experiment he recommends, the article would never have been written. The article is as follows:
"The grasshopper deposits its eggs .at the roots of the grass in the latter part of summer or early autumn. The eggs hatch lout early in spring and during the months of April, May and June, according as the season is early or late ; they are wing- less, their sole power of locomotion being the hop. To destroy them, all that is needed is for each county, town or district to organize itself into a fire brigade throughout the district wdiere their eggs are known to be deposited. This fire brigade shall see that the prairies are not burned over in the fall, and thus they will have the grass for the next spring and to be employed upon the pests while they are yet hoppers — the means
EXTRACT FROM GOV. CARPENTER'S ARTICLE 351
of sure death. To apply it let all agree upon a certain clay, say in April or May, or at any time when they are sure all the hoppers are hatched and none are yet winged. All being ready, let every person, man, woman and boy, turn out with torches and simultaneously fire the whole prairie, and the work, if well done, will destroy the whole crop of grasshoppers for that year, and none will be left to 'soar their gossamer wings' or lay eggs for another year."
The Annals of Iowa, Volume 4, dumber 6, contains an ex- haustive article on the grasshopper invasion of 1867 and 1868, as well as that of 1873 and 1876, written by the late Ex-Gov- ernor C. C. Carpenter, and the conditions so vividly described by him are so exactly similar to what occurred here a few years later, that a few extracts will not be wholly out of place. His observations were confined principally to the counties of Greene, Boone, Story, Hamilton .and .Webster. He says :
"One of the most serious of the pioneer experiences of northwestern Iowa was the grasshopper invasion. The reader who did not see the destruction wrought by the grasshoppers and the strange phenomena of their coming and going will be very apt to regard the story of an eye witness as incredible. They made their first appearance in 1867. The Hon. Charles Richards, at that time a citizen of Fort Dodge, gives the fol- lowing account of their coming:
" 'The first appearance of these pests was on the eighth of September, 1867, when about noon the air was discovered to be filled with grasshoppers coming from the west, settling about ,as fast as the flakes of an ordinary snowstorm. In fact, it appeared like a snowstorm, when the larger flakes of snow fall slowly and perpendicularly, there being no wind. They imme- diately began to deposit their eggs, choosing new breaking and hard ground along the roads, but not confining themselves to such places and being the worst where the soil was sandy. They continued to cover the ground, fences and buildings, eat- ing everything, and in many places eating the bark from the young growth of the apple, cherry and other trees, and nearly
352 DICKIiNSON COUNTY - IOWA
destroying currant, gooseberries and shrubs, generally eating the fruit buds for the next year. They disapjoeared with the iirst frost, not Hying away, but hid themselves and died.
" 'No amount of cultivating the soil and disturbing the eggs seemed to injure or destroy them. I had two hundred acres of new breaking, and as soon as the frost was out commenced dragging the ground, exposing the eggs. ' The ground looked as if rice had been sown very thickly. I thought the dragging, while it w.as still freezing at night, thus exposing the eggs, breaking up the shell or case in which the eggs, some twenty or thirty in eacli shell, would destroy them, but I bi'licve that everv ega' hatched.
" 'As the wheat began to' sprout and grow the grassho])])prs beji'au to hatch, and seemed to literally cover the ground, they l>eing about an eighth of an inch long when hatched. They fed on .till young and tender plants, but seemed to jn-efer bar- lev and wlieat in the fields and tender vegetables in the garden. Many kept the wheat trimmed, and if it is a dry season it will not grow fast enough to head. But generally here in 18 08 the wheat headed out and the stalk w.as trimmed bare, not a leaflet, and then they went up on the head and ate or destroyed it. Within ten days from the time the wheat heads out they moult. Prior to this time they have no wings, but within a period of five or six days they entirely changed their appear- ance and habits, and from an ordinary grasshopper became a winged insect, capable of flying thousands of miles.
" 'In moulting they shed the entire outer skin or covering even to the bottom of their feet and over their eyes. I have caught them when fully developed and ready to moult, or shed their outside covering, and pulled it off, developing their wings, neatly f(dded, almost white in color and so frail that the least touch destroys them. But in two days they begin to fly. First short flights across the fields where they are feed- ing, and then longer flights, and within ten days after thev moult, all the grasshoppers seem instinctively to rise very high and make ,a long flight, those of 1867 never having been heard of after leaving here and all leaving within ten days after they had their wings.'
'"Further on in the same article Mr. Biehards writes of the invasion of 1873 and 1874. He first refers to the fact that they were not nearly as destructive in Webster and the adjoin-
EXTRACT FROM C. B. RICHARDS 353
ing- counties as in those farther to the northwest, and then con- tinues as follows :
" 'This time they were early enough in the season to destroy all the crops in those counties, evidently having hatched far- ther south and having attained niatiirity much earlier than those of 1867. They went through ex.actly the same process of depositing and hatching 'eggs, and destroying crops ,as before and were identical in every respect. The only difference was in their mode of leaving. They made many attempts to leave, rising en masse for a long flight, when adverse winds would bring them down. It is a fact well demonstrated that their instinct teaches them in what direction to fly, and if the wind is adverse they will siefltle down in a few hours, when if the wdnd w^as in the direction they wished to go, they never would be heard of again within hundreds of miles.' "
Governor Carpenter then says :
"I have copied this article as it was written by ^Ir. Ilichards .at the time, because it not only gives a description of the ruin wrought, but goes with particularity into the habits and char- acteristics of the itinerary grasshopper. Persons who were not conversant with this invasion can hardly realize with what anxiety the people scanned the heavens for several years after each return of the season, when they had put in an appearance on the occasion of their previous visit. The great body of the invaders were generally preceded a day or two by scatter- ing grasshoppers.
"In a clear day, by looking far away towards the sun, you would see everv now and then a white winged forerunner of the swarm which was to follow^ Years after they had gone there was a lurking fear that they w^ould return. And if there were any indications of their appearance, especially when dur- ing two or three days the prevailing winds had been from the southwest, i)eople would be seen on a clear day standing with their hands .above their eyes to protect them from the vertical rays of the sun, peering into the heavens, almost trembling lest they should discover the forerunners of the wliite winged messengers of destruction. To illustrate the absolute fearful- ness of the grasshopper scourge, I have recalled a few of the incidents of their visitation. And fearing the reader who has had no personal experience with gr.asshoppers might be inclined
354 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
to regard the story as 'fishy,' I have taken pains to fortify my- self with the documents. I have a letter from J. M. Brainard, editor of the Boone Standard, relating incidents of his own experience during these years ; * * - He says :
' " 'Tliat fall I made frequent trij)s over the ]N"orthwestern road from mv home to Councir Bluff?, and the road was not a very perfect on© at that time, either in roadbed or grades. One day, it was well along in the afternoon, I was going west- ward, .and by the time we had reached Tiptop (now Arcadia) the sun had got low and the air slightly cool, so that the hop- j)ers clustered on the rails, the warmth being grateful to them. The grade at Tiptop was jjretty stiff, and our train actually came to a st^mdstill on the rails greased by the crushed bodies of the insects. This occurred more than once, necessitating the engineer to back for a distance and then make a rush for the summit, liberally sanding the track as he did so. I think I made a note of it for my paper, The Story County Aegis, for in 1876, on visiting my old Pennsylvania home, a revered uncle took me to task for the improbable statement, and when T assured him of its truthfulness he dryly remarked, 'Ah, John, vou have lived so long in the West that I fear vou have grown to be as big a liar as any of them.' "
Commenting on the above. Governor Carpenter says :
"The fact that railroad trains were impeded may seem a strange phenomenon. But there was a cause for the great number of grasshoppers that drifted to the railroad track hinted at by ]\rr. Brainard. Those who studied their habits observed that thev were fond of warmth, even heat. The fence enelos- ing a field wdiere they 'were getting in their work' indicated the disposition of the grasshopper. Towards evening the bot- tom boards on the south side of the fence would be covered with them, hanging upon them like swarms of bees. When the suggestion of the autumn frosts began to cool the atmos- phere the grasshoppers would assemble at the railroad track and hang in swarms on the iron rails which had been warmed by the rays of the sun. The effect of this invasion upon the business of northwestern Iowa was most appalling. * * * Nothing could be more dreary and disheartening than a wheat field with the bare stalks standing, stripped of every leaf and even the heads entirely devoured. People tried all sorts of experiments to drive the pests from their fields. I remember
DEVICES AND EXPERIMENTS 355
my brother, E. E. Carpenter, had a fine piece of wheat, .and he bought a long rope, a hundred feet long, and hitching a horse at each end, he mounted one and his hired man the other, and with horses a hundred feet apart and .abreast they rode back and forth over the field three or four times a day, the rope swinging along between, sweepng a strip a hundred feet wide. They would always ride their horses in the same paths so that they destroyed but little grain and kept the grasshoppers so constantly disturbed that they did but little damage."
The experiment described by Governor Carpenter was re- peatedly tried in this county but with indifferent success, as the hopper would fly up and immediately light do'^vn again in the rear of the passing rope and resume their work of de- struction just as if nothing had happened, thus proving that the insects were more numerous here and the destruction of crops more complete than in the territory that came under his iobservation. Further on ho describes a ''hopper dozer" that was contrived and successfully used by Hon. Charles Aldrich on his farm in Hamilton County. ''Hopper dozers" nearly identical with the one described by Governor Carpenter were made .and used by a number of our farmers, and while millions of the insects were destroyed, like the Chinese soldiers, other millions rose to fill their places and the devastation continued without perceptible interruption.
Before closing his article Governor Carpenter refers to the lively interest taken by General IST. B. Baker in the struggles of the settlers against the adverse circumstances surrounding them, and the activity manifested by him in .all plans for their relief. He refers to a convention held at Fort Dodge to con- sider among other things the obtaining and distributing sup- plies. He s.ays :
"Delegates were in attendance from the various counties of northwestern Iowa and from Dakota. Amone: these there w.as one whose great heart was thoroughly aroused at the tale of woe which came from the stricken region, and who not only
356 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
had leisure, but had tlie disposition to give his time and ener- gies to the work of relief. I refer to General X. B. Baker, the .adjutant general of the state of Iowa. He with Colonel Spof- ford of Des Moines and the writer, then living in Des Moines, attended this convention. It was determined to appoint a committee to visit the various counties in northwestern Iowa and Dakota, and upon consultation with the })eople appoint local conmiittees through whom the work of distribution could be intelligently performed. General ]>aker was ULade the chairnuin of this committee. This was in the early part of January, 1874."
People who resided at Spirit Lake during the summer of 1S7(! <l(»ubtless remend)('r tliat General Baker spent some time there that summer, l)oarding .at the Grandall House. The ex- citement and tlie unusual and uiinatnral labor he had ])er- formed in connection witli bis endeavors for the relief of the "grassho])per suiferers" had s.eriously impaired his health, and his physician recommended a triji to the Lakes. There was no railroads then and he came from Storm Lake by carriage. For some time after his arrival here he gained strength and vitality, and his spirits rose accordingly, .and his friends here hoped and believed that he would receive permanent benefit from his outing and that he would gradually recover his former strengtli and activity.
As usual Crandall had a very fine garden that summer and the General was very much interested in it, and spent consid- erable time strolliuff around it and watchiuff its ffrowth. The su'ddenness with which the grasshoppers alighted down on the country that summer has already been noticed. The General sat in tlie garden and watched them. While he had been largely interested in the various schemes devised for the relief of the grasshopper suiferers, and knew as others knew of the destruction thev had wrought, vet this was the first time he had been in the midst (»f it, and the ra])iditv with whicb thev ffot in their work was a revelation to him.
EXTKACT FKOM D. A. W. PKiJKlNS 367
Reports soon commenced coming in of the natnre and extent of the invasion, and all were soon convinced that the destrnc- tion of the growing crops wonld be more general than anything that had preceded it. The effect of all this on the General's physical condition was diaastrous in the extreme. From being the brightest and jolliest man in the crowd, he became moody and low spirited. H© brooded over the destitnte condition of the newcomers as thongh he had a direct and })ersonal interest in them. He soon lost all that he had gained sinoei coming liere, and his friends were not long in realizing that his case was hopeless and advised that he retnrn to his home in Des Aloines at once, which he did. He continned to fail from that time until his death, which was a few months later. The folr lowina,' extract is from Hon. I). A. ^V. Perkins' "Historv of Osceola ( 'onnty :"
"As the grasshopper ye.ars went on the people themselves, scientific men and even the halls of legislation, were discuss- ing the question of how to drive the 'hoppers' from the country. Alany and varied were the experiments. They tried smudging, burning the prairie, burning tar, digging ditches and every conceivable thing that the ingenuity of man could suggest, even to a huge trap in Avhich to snare and catch them. Minnesota offered a bounty of a certain amount per bushel for them, and actually })aid out quite a sum, which helped the people along, but the idea of delivering a crop of grasshoppers for ,a consid- eration strikes us now as bordering on the ridiculous. * * *
''The grasshopper business, too, had its humorous side, and there was mucli wit grew out of it and the eastern papers made much fun of us, and not only that, but seriously charged us with being a country liable to such things ,and hence unfit to live in. The county papers in northwestern Iowa would each claim that the other county was the worst. The Gazette said in one issue they were mostly in Dickinson (bounty, and the T^eacon gives this assertion the lie and says they are on the border of Osceola 'peeking over.' Some agricultural house printed a card bearing the picture of an enormous grasshojiper sitting on a board fence, gazing at a wheat field, and under- neath the words, "In this s (wheat) bye and bye.'
358 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
"The poet was .also at work and the following one of the numerous productions :
CHARGE OF THE GRASSHOPPER BRIGADE.
"Half a league, Half a league, Half a league onward, , Iliglit from the iWest they "came More than six hundred.
Out fi-om forest and glade, 'Charge for the corn,' they said. Then for the fields they made More than six hundred.
Fields to the right of them, Fields to the left of them, Fields in front of them Pillaged and plundered; ISTaught could their numbers tell, Do^^m on the crop they fell, j^or left a stalk or shell. More than six hundred.
Flashed all their red legs bare. Flashed as thev turned in air, liobbing the farmers there. Charging an orchard while All the world wondered. Plunged in the smudge and smoke Right through the corn they broke. Hopper and locust; Peeled they the stalks all bare, Shattered and sundered. Then they went onward — ^but More than six hundred."
As has been before stated the grasshoppers made their final flight in the summer of 1877. Over one-half of the popula- tion had given up the struggle, disposed of their places for a mere nominal sum .and left. The other half found themselves in decidedly straightened circumstances. To them it was like commencing anew with the odds against them. The question that presented itself to tlu'm the strongest was this: IWhat is
THE GRASSHOPPER BRIGADE 359
in store for us in the future ? Is this region of country more subject to incursions of this kind than other localities ( Are we to be subjected in the future to raids of this character in oft-recurring periods ? If so, it were better that the country be at)andoned and turned over again to the savages from whom it had been reclaimed. Perhaps the feeling prevailing at that time cannot be better shown than by the following short extract from an article written in the fall of 1876 :
'"The extent of the damage done the present season is incal- culable, and it is no wonder that our people are discouraged and desi^ondent, but to their credit be it said that they are looking the situation squarely in the face, and while many are leaving, they are for the most part those who can be the easiest spared. The old settlers, those who have borne the burdens of the past and have labored hardest to overcome the difficulties which have stood in their way, are still hopeful for the future. They cannot believe that this, one of the fair- est regions in Iowa, is to be cursed by periodic visitations of this dreaded pest. It is well known that there are many other localities in the country where the devastation the present year has been even' greater than here. In j)ortions of ]^ew York and Canada whole counties have been devastated, as is also the case in some of the southern states, and we firmly believe that regions of country where the scourge has hitherto been unknown are just as liable to be the victims of the next raid as northwestern Iowa."
Looking back at the conditions as they then existed, we can onlv wonder that the settlers faced them with as much courage -and fortitude as they did. At the present time the loss of any material portion of a crop by drouth, hail or any other cause is deemed a serious calamity. What then the result would be if four entire crops in succession were destroyed we can only faintly conjecture.
CHAPTEK XXIX.
TJIE EARLY SCHOOLS LACK OF I^UNDS AMUSIIVG
INCIDE^'T RELATED BY HON. A. W. HUBBARD THE
FIRST SCHOOL AT SPIRIT LAKE THE COURTHOUSE
USED FOR SCHOOL PURPOSES -THE EARLY TEACH- ERS THE FIRST SCHOOL AT CENTER GROVE THE
LITTLE LOG SCHOOLHOUSE BUILT BY SUBSCRIP- TION THE EARLY TEACHERS THE SCHOOL AT
OKOBCJ.TI TflE SCHOOL BUILDING ERECTED BY
SUBSCRIPTION THE SCHOOL AT TUSCULUM THE
DICKINSON COUNTY TEACHERs' ASSOCIATION
THE EARLY INSTITUTES.
""HE EARLY school work of the conntv has heeii alluded to before and now deserves a more <'xtended notice. The four places in the county where the first public
schools were established and maintained at near the same time were Spirit Lake, Center Grove, Okoboji and Tns- cnhim. The private school maintained by Doctor Prescott and taught by Mrs. A. L. Buckland (then Miss Amanda Smith) for about a year and a half has already been mentioned. There were practically no public funds for the support of the schools of the county until about 1864, and but little thc^n. It may seem strani>e to some that this county did not have public funds as early as the adjoining counties of Clay and O'Brien. The reason is this : In ( 'lav and O'Brien Counties the greater part of their land had been ])roclaimed for sale previous to the panic of 1857 and was entered up l)y speculators and non- residents, and was held ])\ them at the time of the first settle- ment of those counties, and of course one of the first duties of the i^atriotic settler was to see that the non-resident ''land
ANECDOTE BY JUDGE HUBBARD 361
shark" paid his proper proportion of taxes, and especially of school, road and bridge taxes. His second duty was to see that the proceeds arising from these taxes were properly expended.
The late Judge A. )W. Hubbard of Sioux City used to* tell a story of his own experience that illustrates this point better than any amount of explanation would. He owned quite a tract of wild land in one of the counties between here and Sioux City, .and he said that he always noticed from his tax receipts that he was all of the time paying a good round school tax. Having business in that vicinity at one time, he thought he would drive out and see his land and see what sort of a neighborhood it was in. Accordingly he employed a man who knew the country to drive out with him .and made the trip, and found somewhat to his surprise that there was but one man liv- ing in the school district in which his land was located. He found a commodious, well furnished schoolhouse, with all of the fixtures and appurtenances for maintaining a first-class school, while the lone settler and a hired man were the full board of directors. His wife was treasurer and his oldest daughter secretary, both on good salaries. His wife was also teacher and his children were the only ones of school age for miles around.
The Judge took in the situation at .a glance and was highly amused by it, and driving up to the settler's log cabin, entered into conversation with him. After talking awhile about the country and the prospects of its settlement and growth, the Judge made some inquiries regarding their school and finally remarked that he couldn't see why it would not be a good idea for the settler to move right into the schoolhouse and live there. His cabin was small and uncomfortable, while the schoolhouse was large and commodious, and then as there were no other children, there would be no one to complain. The settler an- swered that he had been thinking a great deal about it of late,
362 DIPKINSOiX COUNTY - IOWA
and lie Ix'lioved lie would. And sure enough when winter came on it fonnd the family comfortably fixed in the new schoolhouse, while the "teachers' fund" and the "contingent fund" contributed liberally to their support.
But that was not in this countv, so -the above incident is not a part of this county's history for the very good reason, if for no other, that the land in this county w^as not brought into market until after the panic, and consequently was not sold and so could not be taxed until years after the first settlement. It is more than probable that some incidents very much like it may have occurred about the close of the grasshopper period, but if so, who will say they were not justifiable?
But to return to the question of the early schools. As has been already stated, Miss Mary Howe taught the first school in Spirit Lake, btit this was a private affair, and was paid for by the patrons in proportion to the attendance. As near as can be ascertained, the first school in Spirit Lake which was paid for in whole or in part by the public school fund was taught by Rev. (William Leggett, a Baptist preacher, dur- ing the winter of 1863 and 1864. There w-as no schoolhouse in the town at that time, and up to 1866 they depended on hiring for school purposes any room that haj^pened to be va- cant.
It will be remembered that during the Indian troubles, and until the summer of 1865, the courthouse was used as military headquarters and was occupied by troops. After its evacua- tion the lower story was divided into offices and the main room of the upper story was used for nearly every imaginable purpose. The school directors made an arrangement with the Board of Supervisors to use it among the rest for school pur- poses. It was used in this way for two or three years without other furniture than such benches, chairs ,and tables as w^ere contributed by the patrons for the convenience of the pupils.
SCHOOLHOUSES 363
when the directors seated it with modem school furniture, and for those days it made quite a commodious school room. The first term taught after the school was moved into the courthouse was by Miss Myra Smith in the summer of 1866.
After the burning of the courthouse the district erected a building south of the Crandall House, the upper story of which was used as a Masonic lodge room and the lower one as a school room. This arrangement remained in force until the school had increased in size so as to require the use of both rooms when the building w^as moved to the site of the present schoolhouse, which had been previously donated to the district by Mr. Barkman for schoolhouse purposes. The first teacher in this schoolhouse was W. F. Pillsbury. The last ones, there being two departments at the time, were H. I. W.asson for the 'advanced grade and Mrs. Albert Arthur for the primary. This old building was used for schoolhouse purposes for about ten vears, or until 1882, when it was torn down to make room
♦.'7 7
for the present modern structure.
The first real schoolhouse in the county, built as such and never used for anything else, was the old log schoolhouse at Center Grove. While there was no money in the treasury and hardly any taxable property in the district, there were a liberal number of sturdy girls and boys very much' in need of school privileges and school training, thus rendering some kind of a school building an imperative necessity. The first move towards securing one was made in the spring or summer of 1863. The first movers in the scheme were Philip Doughty, Samuel Rogers, Ludwig Lewis, C. H. Evans, \W. B. Brown and M. J. Smith. It was built entirely by private donations, some furnishing logs, others lumber, and still others shingles. The Avindows were donated by Prescott. After the material was hauled together a "bee" was made, the bodv of the house
304 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
rolled np, the roof put on, the windows pnt in and the flcor laid, when it was ready for occupMncy.
In size it \vas about fourteen !)y twenty and .al)Out seven feet high. Rude benches served for seats, while a Ijoard fas- lened to the wall back of the seats diet duty for desks. A rude table nailed together of rough boards completed the furni- ture. After a few years this primitive furniture w^as removed and modern school furniture set up in its place. But it is .an open question which gave the most genuine satisfaction. This unique school l)uilding was situated at the base and on the east side of the high mound at the southwestern extremity of Center Grove. It was erected in 1863 and used for school purposes twelve years, or until the summer of 1875. There i& a little uncertainty as to who taught the first school in this structure. The first winter school here was taught by Miss Myra Smith during the winter of 1863 and 1864. There is no disagree- ment about this, but it is uncertain whether the first summer school was the summer before or the one after this.
In addition to the pupils residing in the district there were several non-residents who attended school that winter for the first time after coming to the frontier. Among these were Miss Enmia Blake, T. J. Francis, Albert Arthur and some others. The attendance that winter was fully up to the average of our best country schools of the present time, and far .ahead of many of them. It was astonishing the number of children that little lug cabin was made to accommodate. As before stated the first sniii- mer school w^as taught by Miss Julia Bennett, but whether it was before or after the winter school above described cannot now be determined. Other early teachers were G. Fairchild, Misses Ardella and Arietta IWaugh, C. H. Rogers, A. 0. Justice and George ITilbert. George HHlbert was the last teacher in the old log schoolhouse, the last term being for the winter of 1874 and 1875. The district was organized as an independent dis-
OTHEK INCIDENTS 365
trict under the law of 1872 authorizing rural independent dis- tricts. The law was repealed at the next session of the legis- lature and this was the only district in the county organized under it. The old schoolhouse was sold .and torn down in 1875 and a larger and more commodious one erected. The first teacher in the new schoolhouse was A. C. Justice.
As has been before stated, the first public school in the county was taught by Miss Myra Smith in the Okoboji dis- trict. This school was taught in the original Harvey Luce cabin. During the summer of 1804 the school was liehl in Preseott's barn and was taught by Miss Esther Pillsbury. Prescott had just built a new frame barn and during the summer it was used for school, church and Sabbath school purposes, as well as for those for which it was originally intended. The next winter the school was taught by Miss Syrena Pillslmry in an ad- dition to the old "log cabin" then owned and <)Ccu])iod by Rev. S. Pillsbury. About) this time Prescott donated to the district a frame building, sixteen by twenty feet in size, on condition that they w^ould move it to a proper site and finish it off as a school- house. They made a bee and moved the building, but before getting it to the proposed site an accident occurred which pre- vented their completing their work at that time, and they left it intending to finish it later on. About this time Prcscott's dwelling house was destroyed by fire, so he moved his family into the building he had intended to donate to the district for a schoolhouse.
During the summer of 1865 it was decided to erect a build- ing by subscription and this plan was substantially carried out, each one donating such materials as he had and all donat- ing their labor, thus obtaining a very respectable building. It was of native lumber, twenty by thirty feet in size, and ten feet high. The walls were at first bricked up instead of being lathed and plastered. As near as can be determined.
36G DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the first school in the schoolhouse was taught by Miss Syrena Pillsbiiry, succeeded by M. J. Smith. After that some of the old time teachers were Mrs. A. L. Buckland, 'AV. F. Pillsbury, Miss Anna Fairchild and several others whose names are for- gotten.
As w,as customary in the early days, the building was utilized for school, church, Sabbath school, dancing parties and every- thing else that such a building could be used for. It was after- wards finished off in l>etter shape and furnished with modern furniture, and ranked among the better class of schoolhouses in the count3^
The pioneer school in the Tusculum district w,as in the old Thatcher cabin. It will l)e remembered that Thatcher was one of the settlers previous to the massacre, and that his wife was one of the women taken prisoner by the Indians, and that he was away from home .after provisions at the time of the mas- sacre, and therefore escaped the fate that overtook his neigh- bors. He sold liis claim to Prescott, who in turn sold it to H. D. Arthur, and the place has been known as the Arthur place since that time. The first school was taught by Miss Theresa Pidley of Estherville. She was succeeded by Christopher Rasmussen, of the same place. Other early teachers were Burgess Jones, Miss !Nellie Arthur and perhaps one or two others.
The old cabin was used as a schoolhouse until 1870, when a more commodious building was erected. These four early schools form a quartet around which a great many pleasant recollections gather. While everything was rough, crude, irregular and unconventional, there was .a heartiness, genuineness and earnestness of purpose in these early efforts that it is pleasant to recall and not unprofitable to contemplate.
It was about the year 1870 that settlers began to scatter out on tlie prairies away from the lakes and groves, and the settle- ments continued quite rapid until the joublic land was ex-
THE EARLY TEACHERS' ASSOCIATIONS 367
li a listed, and the schools multiplied in proportion. The Lake- ville district was the pioneer in this respect. During the sum- mer of 1860 the settlers there erected a schoolhouse which was then considered quite an affair. It was the largest in the county at that time and for many years later. The first school taught there was by Mrs. Esther Carleton, who taught several terms in succession. The house was utilized for school, meet- ings and all kinds of public gatherings, and all of the old set- tlers in that locality recall with much pleasure the really en- joyable occasions connected with those pioneer days. From this time forw^ard schools multiplied, school districts were or- ganized and the school work was systematized along more modern lines.
Prominent among the instrumentalities that tended to fos- ter and stimulate the interest in educational matters in that early day, was the Dickinson County Teachers' Association, and a few words in regard to its history will not be out of place here. This organization had many unique and original feat- ures which would hardly find place in a teachers' association at the present time, but it was a pronounced success all] the same. It was a movable affair, and the meetings were held in the schoolhouses in the different parts of the county, which were always crowded to their utmost capacity. A two days' session was the rule, and the interest never flagged, but was kept on the increase to the close. The Association was organized in ]S"ovember, 1873, at which time was held the first Teachers' Institute in this county. This Institute was held and conduct- ed by Prof. James L. Enos, of Cedar Rapids, and although at the time it was not counted a phenomenal success, yet it was the first move in a series of events that afterward became of great benefit to the educational interests of the county. The Association was organized wdth Mrs. A. L. Buckland as presi- dent and R. B. N^icol, secretary, who were assisted by an able executive committee whose names have not been preserved.
368 DICKINSON COUiNTY IOWA
For several years the Association held its meetings quarterly. It took the management of the Teachers' Institute into its own hands, in which it was very successful. These institutes became very ^jopular at once, each one outdoing its predeces- sor in the extent of attendance and "the amount of interest and enthusiasm manifested by all concerned. A. W. Osborn Avas county superintendent at that time, and he was snccseded in that office by Dr. H. C. Crary.
For several years the Institutes were managed I'litirely uv home talent, and it was fairly demonstrated that at that early day we had those among u& who were fully as com]K'te7it to manage affairs of this kind as could have been secured by send- ing away and engaging professionals at a much greater ex- pense. Those most prominent in this work were : A. W. Os- born and wife, Dir. H. C. Crary and wife, Mrs. A. L. Buck- land, W. F. Pillsbury, K. B. Mcol and Rev. J. R. UpUui. For the first two or three sessions they received no compensa- tion wdiatever, and yet it is very much of a question whether better institute work was *^ver done in any county in north- western Iowa. Certainly the interest and enthusiasm was far ahead of that manifested in later days.
After the first few years the original promoters dropped out one by one and the Institutes were conducted more on the i)lan in vogue in other localities. The first non-resident conductor employed was Prof. J. !Wernli, of Le Mars, and right here again is shown the tendency in tho'se early times to look for strong luen. As an institute conductor Prof. Wernli never had a superior in the state of Iowa, and has not today. The organization of the x\ssociation was kept up some six or eight years, when the changing conditions of society made more modern methods seem more in harmony with the public needs. Other associations have l>een organized and their efforts attend- ed with a good degree of success, but it will not be possible to oive tlieir historv in detail.
CHAIPTER XXX.
THE NEED OF A EATLEOAD LOCAL SCHEMES
THE SPIEIT LAKE & SIOUX VALLEY EAILEOAD
COMPANY OEGANIZED SUEVEY MADE AID VOTED
THE SCHEME A FAILUEE THE CHICAGO, MIL- WAUKEE & ST. PAUL INDUCED TO MAKE A SUE- VEY THE CHICAGO & NOETHWESTEEN THE
BUELINGTON^ CEDAE EAPIDS <fe NOETHEEN THE
EIEST TO BUILD IN THE COUNTY J. S. POLK AND
THE NAEEOW GAUGE THE CHICAGO^ MILWAU- KEE & ST. PAUL PLAN TO BUILD A SUMMEE EE- •
SOET AT OKOBOJI THE DEATH OF PEESIDENT
MITCHELL AND SUPERINTENDENT MEREILL PEE- VENT THE PLAN BEING CAREIED OUT.
HE PRESSI]^G need of railroad facilities had long been seriously felt and each year emphasized more forcibly the disadvantages we labored under by reason of our .isolation from railroad connections. It will be re- membered that the granting of the government land to the state of Minnesota for the purpose of aiding in building the S!t. Paul & Sioux City road was an important factor in first directing the course of emigration and settlement to this county, and the diverting of that road from its direct route to the counties west of here was a great disappointment. As has been previously stated, that road was built through Osceola and O'Brien Counties in 1871, and Sibley was for several years the nearest railroad station, the distance from the different business points in Dickinson County being from twenty-five to forty miles. The terminus and nearest point on the Chicago,
370 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
•Milwaukee & St. P.aul was at Algoiia, some sixty miles dis- tant. The latter road was built on west across the state in 1878, with Spencer as the nearest station.
Many schemes were agitated having for their object the in- ducing of some railroad company to give this county a rail- road connection. The first movement in this direction was the organization of a local company in the summer of 1871, known as the Spirit Lake & Sioux Valley Railroad Company, hav- ing for its object the building of a railroad from Storm Lake, Iowa, to Jackson, Minnesota. The initiatory move was made by citizens of Sioux Rapids, under the lead of D. C. Thomas, Esq., and Stephen Olney, Jr. The company was organized at Spirit Lake, July 6, 1871. The committee to draft arti- cles of incorporation were D. C. Thomas and Stephen Olney, Jr., of Sioux Rapids; C. M. Squire and J. F. Calkins of Spencer; R. L. 'iWilcox and O. Rice of Spirit Lake, and II. S. Bailey of Jackson. The organization was completed by the selection of Henry Barkman of Spirit Lake, president ; Stephen Olney, Jr., secretary. Emmet F. Hill of Spirit Lake was appointed engineer.
The scheme was to call elections all along the line and get what aid voted they could, and then try to get some strong company to take it off their hands. A careful survey of the entire line was made in the fall of 1871, and the route was found t<t be in every way feasible. Elections were called in all of the townships of this county and the proposed aid voted in all but one or two. The people of Jackson and Sioux Rapids, as well as those of Milford and Spirit Lake, were enthusiastic in support of the enterprise, but the people of Clay County hesitated. They thought the move was premature and could see no chance of success in it at that time, and consequently declined having anything to do with it, even to calling an election.
EARLY RAILROAD TROJECTS 371
In the light of subsequent events, it is not very probable that the scheme would have succeeded at that time had all of the towns along the line taken hold of it and voted the required aid, but Avith the sentiment divided, the case was hopeless, and the organization was soon allowed to go to pieces, and it w.as several years before any other plan was tried for procuring a road.
In the fall of 1878, shortly after the building of the main line through Spencer bv the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul road,, that company, at the earnest solicitation of B. B. Van Steenburg, T. S. Seymour, Henry Barkman and others, miide a preliminary survey of a line from Spencer to Spirit Lake, but the company could not see it to be for their interest at that time to build the branch, and this move like the former one was barren of results.
The next move for a road into this county was by the Chicago & ^Northwestern Railway Company in the summer of 1880. Their plan was to construct a branch from Groldfield, or some other point on their north and south line westward, eventually reaching Dakota and the Black Hills. Their proposed route was practically the one that was afterward adopted by the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & N^orthern Railroad. The com- pany required a certain amount of aid to be voted by the inhab- itants along the line. As usual in this county there was a divi- sion of sentiment as to whether the proposed road should be built on the north or the south side of the lakes. The northern route was the one selected by the company. Elections were called in all of the townships of the county to vote on the ques- tion of furnishing the required aid. The tax carried in Center Grove, Excelsior, Silver Lake, Diamond Lake, Spirit Lake and Superior. This was not as many towns as they had insisted on voting the tax before they would promise to build into the county, and consequently they violated no previous promises
372 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Ly thiiir failure to do so. At the time they were working up local aid here they were also making a survey and working up local aid for their line from Eagle Grove to H)aw,arden by way of Sioux Rapids and Peterson, and it is not at all proba- ble that they would have built through fhis county even if all of the towns had voted the tax, ,as they found a clearer field and less competition on their more southern route. This was the last of the move by the Chicago & ISTorthwestern.
The next summer, or in 18S1, Hon. S. L. Dows, of the Bur- lington, Cedar Rapids & !N'orthern made a proposition to the people for building their road through the county, .and for a third time tlio question of voting aid for building a railroad across the county was submitted to the people. The towns voting aid to this road were Center Grove, Spirit Lake, Silver Lake, Diamond Lake and Superior. The question was defeated in Superior the first time it was voted on, but upon the com- pany promising to build and maintain a depot in the township they reconsidered their action and voted the tax. The number of towns voting the tax were not as many as the company at first required as a condition for locating the road through the county, but as soon as they saw it was all they were likely to get, they notified the authorities of their .acceptance of it and the tax was levied by the auditor. Of all the taxes voted in aid of railroad projects in this county this is the only one so far that has been collected.
The building of the road was pushed as rapidly as possible during the remainder of that season and the early part of the next, and the road so far completed that the first train of cars was i*un into Spirit Lake on the eleventh day of July, 1882.
About the same time that the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Northern were working their railroad project in the north part of the county, J. S. Polk of Des Moines, representing the Des !^^oines «&: Xorthwestern, .appeared in the interests of his road.
EARLY RAILROAD PROJECTS 373
This road had previously been located to Fonda, in Pocahontas County, and a portion of it built. It was now proposed to ex- tend it from there to Jackson, Minnesota. Mr. Wilkins, the local engineer, made a survey of the line during the summer of 1881. Aid was voted in the towns of Milford, Okoboji, Ex- celsior, Lloyd, Richland and Lakeville. The right-of-way was secured ,and grading commenced and carried forward with vigor until most of the work between Spencer and Spirit Lake was completed, when for some unexplained reason the work was sus- pended and finally abandoned. Why the company abandoned the project as they did, thereby forfeiting the aid that had been voted them, is something the public never fully understood. It cannot be sufficiently .accounted for on the theory that the Chicago, ]\rilwaukee & St. Paul were occupying the same ground, as their connections were so widely different that they could hardly be said to come into competition at all. But be this as it may the old embankments remain a fitting represen- tation of many of the .ambitions and aspirations of pioneer times.
During this time the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul were closely watching the other companies, and when it became evi- dent that if they did not occupy the ground some rival com- pany would, they with a great show of reluctance commenced preparations for building a branch into this county. They had seemed to regard this county as their legitimate field of operations, inasmuch as they had lines both to the north and south of it and yet they were apparently determined not to make a move until compelled to do so by the movements of their more active and progressive rivals. In the fall of 1881, seeing that longer delay might prejudice their interests, they made their survey and putting on a large force of laborers soon had the entire line from Spencer to Spirit Lake under con- struction. The first train of cars crossed the south line of the county on the first day of August, 1882, but the road was not
374 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
completed to Spirit Lake until the following spring. While this branch w.as under construction some of the active officers of the road conceived the idea of organizing a company for the purpose of Luilding up a summer resort at Okoboji. This com- pany was composed of S. S. Merrill, general manager; Mr. Pryor, general superintendent; Greorge W. Sanborn, division superintendent; Mr. Kimball, chief engineer, and two or three others.
Their plan was to secure what they could of the most desir- able land in that immediate locality and lay out a town and ffet their scheme under wav, when thev claimed they had the promise of the railroad company that they would appropriate a liberal amount for the development of the place. The land was purchased, the town laid out, plans for improvement adopted, and everything indicated the success of the en- terprise, when Mr. Merrill, the general manager of the road, was stricken with paralysis, which eventually resulted in his death. It was Merrill who it was claimed had made the promise on the part of the road that they would help the enterprise, but there was no binding contract to that effect, and ,as the man- agement now passed into the hands of men not in the scheme, the project was allowed to fall through and the parties disposed of their land as best they could. Later this property has come into the hands of J. A. Beck, who h,as fitted it up as one of the chief summer resorts of the place.
As in all other communities the building of railroads into this county marked an era in the history of its growth and develop- ment. It seems to serve as a kind of dividing line between the old and the new, a kind of ]3artition fence between the sturdy, rugged life of pioneer times and the more luxurious and less laborious life of the later davs. The new order of thins's is doubtless a vast improvement on the old. It is better, far better, to have railroads, telegraphs and telephones, street cars and electric lights, prosperous communities, comfortable school-
EAHLY RAILROAD PROJECTS 375
houses and churches, convenient mills and factories, and the thousand and one other improvements and conveniences that have come with the new order of things, than to have continued in the primitive Ayay of living that was inseparable from the life of the early pioneers. N'ow, Avhile this is true it is equally true that the rugged discipline of the early days has some advan- tages over the present more effeminate times. People are sub- stituting ease, comfort, and luxury for the battle and strug- gle of the early days. But battle and struggle are necessary ele- ments for the development of strength of body and vigor of mind. Again there w.as a vast deal of enjojTiient in the rough and rugged life of those early times, and many will remem- ber with a peculiar regret the really happy lives they lived in the midst of the danger, exposure and toil of the pioneer days. Bnt pioneering as exemplified in the history of Iowa is a thing of the past. The covered wagon, known .as the "prairie schooner," drawn by three or four yoke of slow plodding oxen, and followed by a drove of loose cattle more or less numerous according to the means of the owner, and bearing the family and household goods of some hardy adventurer far beyond the confines of civilization to some favored grove, lake or stream which he has seen or of which he has heard, there to build up p, liome for himself and famil}^ and await the development which the next generation may bring, is now only a memory. The long drives over the prairie with the fun and jollity of the night spent around the cheerful campfire, Avhere several families of emigrants were traveling in company, are but a pleasant recollection. With the inauguration of the new order of things the American pioneer has passed down and out. For nearly three hundred years he has occupied a prominent place in the fore- front of American history. But his days are numbered. As we look away to the West Ave are forcibly reminded that there is no longer an American frontier, and when the frontier shall have faded away the "pioneer" will live only in history.
CHAPTER XXXI.
DISAPPEARANCE OF THE GAME-^THE LAST BUE-
FALO KILLED IX IOWA "hEGIRA OF THE ELk"
EXTRACT FROM A PAPER WRITTEN BY J. A. SMITH
FOR THE MIDLAND MONTHLY THE DEER NEVER
PLENTY IN NORTHWESTERN IOWA A SUCCESSFUL
DEER HUNT WONDERFUL EXPLOITS OF A CHICKEN
DOG WOLVES "bob-cats."
FEW IXCIDEXTS connected with tlie disappearance of the game in this locality may not Ije wholly devoid of interest. Aside from the fur-bearing animals which have already been mentioned, the more common were badgers, coyotes, foxes and prairie wolves. In addition to these the timber wolf and the lynx, or l>ol)-eat, as the trapjier? ealloil it, were occasionally met with. Raccoons were common enough in the groves but didn't venture out much on the prairie, and since the groves were limited they were not plenty. There is no account of any bear ever having l>een seen here. The larger game were deer, elk and buffalo. It is ,an open question .whether buffalo were ever so plenty here as has been popularly supposed or as they are known to have been in the "buffalo grass" region of the Dakotas and beyond. F.abulous stories were early told of the hunting grounds of northwestern Iowa and it is possible many have formed somewhat extravagant ideas of the richness of it.
So far as relates to the fur-be.aring animals, no description of them has ever exceeded the truth, and the same is true of the birds, but when it comes to the larger game such statements need to be taken with some degree of allowance. It was held by some the lakes being the favorite headquarters of certain bands
DISAPrEARANCE OF THE GAME 377
of Sioux Indians they kept the game hunted down closer than was done in other localities. This was doubtless true to some extent. Be that as it may, the buffalo had practically disap- peared at the time of the firet attempt to settle the county in 1856. So far as can now be ascertained there are no accounts or traditions of any having been seen in the vicinity of the lakes for three or four years along about that time. Trappers and others coming .across from the Big Sioux and beyond, occasion- ally reported having seen buffalo sometimes in large droves and then again in small numbers. But that was contiguous to the buffalo grass region. JSTone came about the lakes at that time. Along about 1861 and 1862 there used to be occasional re- ports of stragglers being sighted on the prairie, but so far as is known none were killed at that time, although some reports are going the rounds of the paj^ers that one was killed in Osceola County in 1860. One was killed in this county in the latter part of the summer of 1861 or 1862. He was evidently ■a two-year-old. He must have straggled in around the north end of AVest Okoboji Lake, for the first seen of him he was coming down along what is now known as Des Moines Beach, and on reaching Given's Point he took a course, swimming straight across the bay. He landed at the mouth of a ditch, which had been dug from the lake inland to supply a steam mill, located there, with water. The ditch was nearly a hun- dred and fifty feet long, and although shallow where it entered the lake, it gradually increased in depth as it neared the mill until at the upper end it was about twelve feet deep. The buf- falo entered this ditch without hesitation, and as he made his way toward the upper end he soon found himself in a trap. He couldn't go ahead, he couldn't climb up the sides, and he couldn't back out, and the mill hands putting in an appearance about that time soon dispatched him.
378 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
It is supposed by those who know something" of the habits of the buffalo that this one must have mistaken the month of the ditch for an ordinary buff'ah) trail and attem])ted to follow it. It is said that in the bntfalo eonntry it is no nncommon exjier- ienee to see a trail worn several feet devp by the biitfiilo fol- lowing each other in single file across the bluffs. TTow this lone animal strayed awav from his fellows and mad:' his .a])pearance there at the mill at that time as he did has always been pretty mnch of a mystery, bnt this incident can be verified by a large amount of nnim]ieachable testimony and can bo taken as true.
In the latter part of August, 1863, a party consisting of J. S. Prescott, E. V. Osborn, John Burrill, Aaron Rogers and Jl. A. Smith started for Sioux City on business .at the United States Land Office. As they were going around the bend of the Little Sioux in the southwest corner of Okoboji township, they saw across the bend what they at first took to l)e two cattle lying down near the to]i of the bluff. Soon one of the boys made the remark that he didn't believe they were cattle, as there were no cattle running down there at that time. Prescott had a good gl,ass which he .always carried on his trips across tlu' })rairie. This was soon produced and by its help it was easy to see that the animals w^ere buffalo. The ]),arty had three horses along, Prescott's two on a spring wagon, and R. A. Smith's saddle horse.
It was arrano'cd that Prescott should drive his team behind the hill out of sight and await i-esnlts, that R. A. Smith with his s.addle horse should make a Avide detour to the west and get beyond them, while the others with the three rifles of the jiarty should, by keeping the high ground between them and their game, get as near them as they could and deliver their fire. This program was carried out as planned. Osborn had a heavy buffalo rifle. The other two were small aff.airs and of not much
THE LAST BUFFALO 379
account. As the boys came over the ridg'e that, they had kept between them and their game they found themselves closer to it than they expected to be, and not more than fifteen or twenty rods away. One of the buffalo had g'o>t onto its feet and was stretching itself while the other w.as lying still as first sighted. AVitli all the caution possible the boys took deliberate aim and fired at the standing buffalo. (Whether their shots took effect or not they did not know at the time, l)ut they did not bring him down. The two animals started on a deliberate can- ter to the southwest. They did not go fast, as R.. A. Smith, who was stationed out that way with his liorse, had no trouble in keeping .alongside. But every time that he came uj) they were inclined to shear oft" to the left. Noticing this peculiarity he thought that by keeping on one side they might be run around in a circle to near where they started from. After running about a half mile they separated, one. of them keeping on the southwest while the Avounded one coming around in a circle was soon approaching the starting point. The boys noticing this dropped down out of sight by a gopher knoll covered with weeds and awaited his approach. He passed within about eight rods of them. When directly opposite they gave him another broad- side. This demoralized him materially and checked his speed somewhat, but failed to ln*ing him down. He kept on until he came to the Little Sioux River. There w.as a sand bar here reaching out into tlie stream. He went out on this sand bar ■ and stopjjed. He was by this time pretty well exhausted. Os- born made the remark that he had heard .it said that you could not bring down a buffalo by shooting him in the forehead, .and now he was going to find out. Accordingly he went out ahead about six or eight rods away, aiul taking deliberate aim at his forehead, fired. The ball went crashing through his brain, and he fell over on his back, his feet quivering in the air.
380 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
An examination afterwards proved that the first ball fired at him passed throngh the fleshy part of the heart, but not striking any of the cavities, failed to bring him down. The boys soon rigged a Spanish windlass and dragged him out on dry land where they took off the hide a^id cut up the carcass. He proved to be a very large animal. The quarters must have weighed nearly four hundred pounds each. Whether this was the last buffalo killed iu Iowa or not is an open question, but it was one of the last. There was one killed north of Spirit Lake, near Loon Lake, iu Jackson (\mnty, ]\Iinnesota, about the same time, by "Jim Palmer," who was well known to all of the old settlers.
lAbout the same time John Gilbert, who was carrying the mail between Spirit Lake and Fort Dodge, reported on his re- turn from one of his weekly trips that the people in the vicinity of Old Rolfe, which was then the county seat of Pocahontas County, were much wrought up and excited over li.aviug killed a large buffalo near there the previous week, and h<' ga^'e the names of some of the parties engaged iu the hunt and some of the incidents of it. There may have been others killed in Iowa that same season, and doubtless were. Indeed, of late there have been several items going the rounds of the press of north- western Iowa w<here different localities are claiming the dis- tinction of being the place where the last buffalo in Iowa was run down and killed.
Other instances are reported of buffalo lieing seen which' were not killed. One w.as seen one Sunday morning on the bluffs near where the Okol)uji mill was afterward Iniilt. A. S. Mead reported having seen one in the vicinity of Marble Grove. And there were others. Since the foregoing was written it has l>een ascertained that in the summer of 1870 two buffalo were seen near the forks of the Little Sioux, in this county. They were coming from the northwest and going southeast. It was
THE LAST BUFFALO 381
afterwards learned iJhat this same two were also seen hj several persons in the German settlement in the Little Sioux Valley, in Minnesota. What became of them was never known, and where thev came from, and how thev came to be here alone, will always remain a mystery.
Xow, it is an ()])en (juestion as to Avhat extent the buffalo was native to northwestern Iowa. That ])ecnliar product known as ''l>nffalo grass" never grew there, and the buffahi were known to be very partial to it and never left the regions where it grew, except in times of drouth when it failed and they were obliged to seek other pasifure. This was notably the case in 1863. This was the summer of Sully's first expedition up the Missouri, and the boys from this county connected with that expedition agree in the statement thait the vegetation in the country through which they passed was burned up by drouth, and that they were obliged at times to make forced marches of twenty to thirty miles in search of water and forage for their horses. Of course this condition of affairs would compel the buffalo to scatter and seek their food wherever they could find it, and accounts for their coming into Iowa that fall in greater num- bers than they had done for some years previous.
IStow, whatever question there may be .as to this having been the native home of the buffalo, 'there is none in regard to the elk. The prairies of northwestern Iowa were as peculiarly adapted to being the home of the elk as those of Dakota were the home of the l)uffalo. In the early days it was a rare thing to cross any of the large prairies without encountering a drove of elk, and sometimes several of them. Of course they kept growing scarcer and more rare until the date of their final ex- lormination, which is fixed in 1871. An interesting article writ- ten by J. A Smith, formerly edit(n- of the Spirit Lake Beacon, and puldished in the Midland Monthly for August, 1895, en- titled "The Ilegira of the Elk," gives an account of the disap-
382 DICKIKSON COUISTY - IOWA
pearance of the elk from Iowa, aii<1 a short extract may prove interesting'. He says :
"Until iiiidsuimncr of lyTl a considerable drove of elk had found feeding' grounds and coniparative security for rearing their young in the then uusettliMl region <>f northwestern Iowa, where the 'trend of drainajie is toward the Little Sioux and Rock Rivers and near their headquarters. .V colony of settlers j)lanted by Captain May in Lyon ( 'ounty in ISGJ*, the rail- road surveyors .and advance guard of ])ioneers in soutliwes'tern Minnesota in the same year, and the iuHux of homesteaders into Dickinson, O'lJrien, Clay and Sioux ( 'ounties at that })eriod, compelled this herd of elk to take refuge in the valley of the Ocheyedan River, a ti'ibutarv of thi' Little Sioux. There they remained undisturbed, cxce])t by an occasional band of hunters, until a memorable July morning in 1871, when the writ<'r at a distance of some two miles saw them pass southwestward <lowu the further border of a snndl sifream that em])ticd its waters into the Ochevedan River. The coicne of vantage was a lone house on a homestead claim in the extreme southwestern corner of Dickinson ('ounty, miles away from any habitation to the east and many more miles away from any on the west. The herd passed down on the east li.nnk of the stream, while the homesteader's cabin was on the west bank with the wide valley between. To the northwest the view was unol)structed for half a dozen miles, and it was from this quarter that the elk were moving from their vi(dated jungle homes amid the tall rushes and willows of the Ocheyedan Valley.
"Peering through the vista of pink and yellow shades of a rising summer sun, the first thought of the early summer dwellers in the cabin was that some emigrant's cattle had stam- peded— a not unusual occurrence. A few minutes later and the use of a fieldgl.ass disclosed the identity of the swiftly gal- loping animals. Ere they reached the nearest point on the eastern range, we were able to classify them as a drove of elk consisting of four old bulls, ten full grow^n cows, twelve year- lings and four calves. Judging by the peculiar articulate move- ments which were plainly visil)le through the glass, the pace did not seem to be fast, but the conclusion arrived at from the distance covered in a given time, led us to believe that it would be useless to try to intercept them without swift horses. Some weeks later (for news traveled slowly in those days), we learned
THE PASSING OF THE ELK 383
lliat the entire drove in its hejjira was scattered and killed be- fore reachinii' the Missouri ]{iver. They took refuge in the laro-er bodies of timber that skirt the lower waters of the Little Sioux River, and relays of hunters slew to the very last one this fleeing' remnant of noble game. "' * ■^'' xVnd this in brief is the story of the exodus from Iowa of the American elk. * ■" " It is quite probable that the remnant, the fate of which these pages record, was the last vestige of the American elk east of the great Rocky Sierras and south of the unsalted seas."
•Whether the writer of the above was wholly correct in his conclusion is imnmterial. It was the last drove of elk in Iowa of which any reliable account can be obtained.
While there was occasionally a deer seen in this region in the early days, they were not plenty. Indeed, they were very rare. They are a timber animal and don't take to the open [u-airie unless they are forced to. And then again in the ter- rible winter of ISoO and 18.">7 they were either starved out or hunted down in the dc^ep snows until they became almost ex- tinct, and during the next twenty-tive years were met with but seldom. The winter of 1880 and 1881 will be remembered bv the old-timers .as another winter of very deep snows. Some time in December of that winter a drove of over *twenty deer ])ut in an appearance on the Ocheyedan River- and Stony Creek. Where they came from has always been a mystery, but prob- ably i'vmu the Xorthwest.
\yallace Smith, who at that time lived on the Stony, hap- pened in Alilford about 'the holidays, au<l while there told Greorge Chase about the deer being in the Ocheyedan Valley, and together they planned to have a hunt for them. Accord- ingly when Wallace went home Chase accompanied him, taking with him a large chicken dog that was the joint i)ro])erty of himself and E. I). Carlton, of Spirit Lake. This dog had ])re- viously won a great reputation for skill and pluck, which he more than maintained on this occasion. After reaching home
384 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the boys fdniictl thoir plans for following the deer the next day. Accordingly bright and early next morning they were off, ac- companied by the dog "Jim/' The snow was deep and covered with a crnst that held the dog all right, and held the men a part of the time, they breaking thrangh oecasion,ally, bnt was not strong enongh for the sharp-pointed hoofs of the deer, they breaking through at every juni]).
The incidents of the day's hnnt are abont what any person can imagine they wonld be under the sanu' circumstances, and yet to hear the boys tell them they become interesting, and at times quite exciting, particularly the achievements of the dog "Jim." During the day he brought down three deer, two of which he killed outright, and the third one he tired out and Istayed by it until the boys came up and dispatched it. The first was a fawn, and was easily disposed of. The second was a doe, and made quite a fight, but the dog soon tired her out and made a finish of her. The Last of the three was a youua, strong buck, and he put up the fight of the occasion. Excejjt for the snow he doubtless would have escaped, for the dog h.ad been doing pretty hard work and must have been l)y this time somewhat fatigued, but the sight of the big game "braced" him uj) and he went in to win. How long the fight lasted nobody knows, but when the boys came up both combatants were lying on the ground completely exhausted. The dog had not lieen able to inflict any mortal hurt, and the buck had not been able to get away. Every time the deer would nnike an effort to rise up the dog would grab him by the back of the neck, and they would have a tussle there in the snow. The boys soon put an end to the struggle by dispatching the deer, which was the largest one thev took that dav. Thev brought in seven in .all, including the three that were credited up to old "Jim."
A day or two later than this L. J. and L. W. Vreeland, of Spirit Take, encountered this same di-ovc farther north and
OTHER GAME 385
succeeded in securing two or three of tliem. What heeanie of the balance of the herd is not known, hut in'obahly thev were hunted (h)wn and killed hefore getting out of the state.
]N^ow, it is more than probable that there are yet some deer in the timber regions of the state, but the incident jus't related is the story of the last flock of deer seen in northwestern Iowa.
Foxes, coyotes and prairie wolves were numerous up to al)out 1870 or 1875, since which time with the gradual set'tlement and improvement of the country, they have gradually disappeared until they are ])ractically extinct or nearly so. The fox is al- ways respected for his smartness, and the prairie wolf despised for his meanness. It was not possible, until about 1880 for farmers to keep sheep with profit on account of the depreda- tions of these marauders. In addition to the ju'airie wolves thero was occasionally seen a large grey wolf, known as the timber wolf. They seemed to be thicker set and stouter, stockier built than the wolves of the timber country, but were so rare that they never cut much figure in the game of northwestern low.a. ]\rr. Barkman used to get one occasionally in his extensive ]uir- chases of fur in this region.
Another animal occasionally encountered in this region was a species of lynx, known among the trappers as the ''bob-cat." He had long strong forelegs; thick, heavy shoulders; a short, tliick neck, ,and a round head, a somewhat lank body, and a short tail, which accounts for the name ^'bob-cat." He had the tassels on the tips of his ears, which unmistakably proclaimed him a member of the lynx family. His feet were large in proportion to the body, and the tracks he left in the snow were terror inspiring to those not acquainted with the animal and his peculiarities. One of these animals w.as killed in the winter of 1869 and 1870 northwest of Spirit Lake, by a young man by the name of Fenton, who lived at Marble Grove. Either that winter or a year later one was killed by Frank Mead out west of .West Okoboji. Frank .and a young man 1iy the name of
38(5 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Hoji'lo were tosjether oiu there trapping nmskrats. It was their eiistoin to make the I'diinds of thcMr traps (lnriii<>- the day, Itrinniiia their game in and taking care of their fnr in the even- ing, and thev were not verv partienlar about throwing the car- casses far away from the tent. One night Frank heard some- thing ])r(»wling around and ernnching the carcasses that had been thrown out the preceding day, and crawling out of lied he went to the (h)or of the t-ent,, and cautiously putting aside the curtain that served as a door he was suddenly startled by the hideous countenance of an enormous bob-cat Avithin six inclies 'of his face. Dodging baed-: into the tent he seized his revolver and tinished the animal there and then. He In-ought the hide in next day and was quite ])roud of his trophy.
A son of Homer Calkins, living .at that time in a bend of the Little Sioux southwest of ^lilford, had a lot of traps set for ismall game, such as muskrat, mink, etc. One morning on visit- ing his tra]is he saw a fierce, hideous looking animal in one of them. He had no ide.a what it was, having never seen nor heard of anything like it. H]e at once provided himself with a willow club (d" suitable size and tackled the brute, and for a time it was an open (piestion which wotdd win, the boy or the l)ol)-cat. But the l)oy was strong and plucky, and delivered his blows fast and furious and soon had the satisfaction of seeinc: his antagonist show signs of weakness, when a few more well- directed blows finished the job, and the furious beast succundii'd to the ine\'itable and the boy carried home the hide in triumph. ISTone of the animals have been seen nor heard of here since about that time.
The foregoing incidents are not regarded as either interesting or important, except as they mark the dividing line between the past ,aud the present, the old and the new. It notes the time and 2)lace of the disajipearance of the game of northwestern Iowa, which Avas once popularly supposed to be a hunter's para- dise.
CHAPTEIl XXXTT.
EARLY nSHIIN'G THE SUPPLY BEGINS' TO DI- MINISH— :mkasures adopted for their protec- tion THE FISH HATCHERY AT ANAMOSA
BRANCH AT SPIRIT LAKE THE STATE HATCHERY
MOVED TO THE LAKES IT IS INJURIOUSLY AF- FECTED BY BOTH HIGH AND LOW WATER AND IS FINALLY ABANDONED LEGISLATIVE RESTRIC- TIONS FISH SHANTIES PROHIBITED STATE
BUILDS DAM ACROSS THE OUTLET WINTER FISH- ING PROHIBITED THE CLOSED SEASON.
ERlHxVPS a few words regarding' the tisliiug and the in- terests connected with it may not be wholly uninterest- ing". Fabulous stories have been told first and last of the Spirit Lake and Okoboji fishing, but no ordinary rejjort has been given <»nt that exceeded the truth as it was in the early days. These conditions remained in force nntil near the close of the seventies, when it l)egan to be noticed that the fish Avere beginning to thin ont or get scarce. This was due to two principal causes. In the first place no restrictions had ever been placed on the number of fish taken, or the manner of tak- ing them, and the result was that fish were taken away in enor- mous quantities. Parties would come from long distances in every direction, bringing their seines and spears and a l)()at, and barrels for packing fish and salt for })utting them down, and going into camp would rem.ain as long as they cared to, and then give way to some other party.
In this way hundreds of tons were taken. In many instances, where parties didn't understand putting them down properly, they spoiled before reaching home and had to l)e thrown away.
388 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
This class was never popular here and soon won the appella- tion "swill barrel fisherniem." In tlie siM-ond ])lace, dnring- the high water of the ton years following' 1S74, ^•ast nnnd)ers went down stream that never fonnd tlieir way b.aek. The two mills <M\ the ontlet were hnilt htd'ore the legislatnre passed the act re([nirin<>' the own<'rs of waterjxiwers to ])nt fish ways in their dams, conseqnently neitlier of the dams on the oiitU't were pro- vided with iishways. It was an easy matt<n- for tish to go down stream, l)nt imjiossihle for them to get hack. Tt is prol)ahle that more fish Avent down stream and failed to find their way hack during those vears of liiii'h water than have ever hcen canglit ont of the lakes since fishing first began. In view of these facts it soon began to be talked tlmt measures must be devised to prevent their too rapid destruction, and also to replenish the diminishing supply.
To meet the emergency the Seventeenth General Assembly, in the spring of 1878, passed an act requiring the owners of dams "to construct and maintain fishways of suitable capacity and facility to aft'ord a free passage for fish up and down through such water course when the water of said stream is running over said dam." In the same act all dams or obstruc- tions not provided with fishways were declared nuisances, to be abated under the law relating to nuisances. This section of the law was afterwards declared unconstitutional so far as it related to dams built previous to the passage of the laAv, and .as both of the dams on the outlet to the lakes were built prior to that time no fish"\vays were ever erected in them.
In the spring of 1880, the state legislature enacted a law providing for an additional fish hatchery at Spirit Lake, and the appointment of an assistant fish commissioner. Previous to this time the state had erected a hatcherv near Anamosa, in Jones County, and Mr. Shaw, the fish commissioner, used occa- 'sionally to send to the lakes quantities of small fish, but the
PROTECTION AND PKOPAGATION OF FISH 389
distance was so great and the means of transportation so inade qnate that the amount of replenishing done through that channel was of little if any benefit.
A. A. Mosher, of Spirit Lake, was appointed assistant com- missioner. He at once went to work with the limited a])i)r(.i- priation .at his dis])osal, and erected on the isthmus an estab- lishment by which he was to supplement the work of the state hatchery, by securing from there spawn and young iish, and caring for them until they acquired sufficient vitality to l)e placed in the lakes. The experiment was not as successful as it might have been h.ad the appropriation been more liberal. In 1886 the legislature decided to discontinue the state hatcherv in Jones County and move the whole affair to Spirit Lake.
William Larrabee was governor at the time and he appointed T]. D. Carlton, of Spirit Lake, fish commissioner. The office of. assistant commissioner was discontinued. Governor Larrabee himself selected the new location, or rather intimated what lo- cation he would apjrrove, and jMr. Carlton proceeded at once tp move up such of the state's property ,as was worth moving and commenced the work of rebuilding the hatchery in its new location. Mr. Carlton at once proceeded to business and as rapidly as he could with the limited appropriation at his com- mand, he constructed the necessary vats ,and tanks and such other appliances as were understood to be the proper thing in enterprizes of this kind, and during the four years of his in- cumbency made a fair start in the work of fish culture. !Mr. Carlton retained the position until the spring of 18!)0, when he was superseded by Mr. R. K. Soper of Emmet County.
During Mr. Soper's incumbency the legislature failed to make any appropriation for contingent ex|>enses, consequently he w^as handicapped by lack of funds. There was a little left over from the former appropriation and when that was ex- hausted he had no funds to work with, so that about all he could
390 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
do was to draw his salary which he did with ('(iniinen(Uibk' r('i>;u- hirity.
In 1892 ]\rr. Soper was suceeedi'd hv .Int Griiigs of O'Brien County. Mr. Griggs didn't make nnu-h of a success of |trn])a- gating fish l)ut he was a holv terror aftvr the vinlatcn-s of the law .against fishing out of season. ]\leasures for the protection and preservation of the fish have been adojjted hv the state as follows: First, the Code of 18T'5 ]irohibited the taking of fish "with any net, seine, wire basket, trap, or any other device whatsoever, except with a hook and line, snare, gun, or spear.". March i^O, 1S84, the General Assembly passed a law with the following provisions : "That no person shall take by spearing with a gaff, spear or other device any fish from any of the ])er- manent lakes or ponds or outlets or inlets thereto within the state of Iowa between the first day of .Vovember and the thirty- first day of May next following." Another section of this act made it "unlawful for any person, company or eorporati.in knowingly to buy, sell or offer for sale,.or have in their ])os- session any fish taken in violation of the foregoing section."
In 1890 the Twenty-third General Assembly repealed all former restrictions and enacted as follows: 'Tt shall be unlaw- ful for any person to fake from any waters of the state any fish in any manner except by hook and line, except minnows fen- bait. Also that it shall be lawful to spear Imffalo fish and suckers between the first day of November and the first day of March fidlowing." This latter clause was rejiealed in 18',)4. The reason for this repeal was that too many of the hshernieu, if allowed to s})ear at .all, took everything that came in sight whether of buffalo or game fish, and then could usually so cover U}) their tracks that it was ini])ossible to get any evidence against them.
The Twenty-sixth General A.ssembly in 189(1 ])rohibited fish shanties and also ])r<iliibited any person from using moi'c than
THE FISH HATCHEUY 301
two lines witli one hook on^ each line. Perhaps a little ex- planation is due right here. Much of the early winter tishing was done in small shanties. These shanties were from fiv(' to eight feet long, from three to six feet wide, and from four to seven feet high. They had floors through which was a tra]) door, usually across one end. They were made of the lightest material ohtainable so as to be easily moved from place to place. They were set on runners in order to make the work of moving as light as possilile. A small sheetiron stove usually occupied one corner. When pro]ierly l)anki'(l n]) they could he nuidc warm and comfortable. It was cnstoniary to cut a lioh' through the ice the full size of the trap door and possibly a little larger and then move the shanty over the hole and bank it up snug and tight. The darker the shanty can be m.adc the plainer objects can l>e seen on the bottom of the lake. It is a surprise to the uninitiated tlie distinctness with which ol)jects can be seen on the Iiottom of the lake to the depth of from twenty to thirty feet.
The number of fish taken in those shanties was very con- siderable but not so large as has been ])opularly suj)posed, am] had the spearing been confined to buffalo fish and suckers, as was the intention of the law of 1890, it would have been a benefit to the other fish rather than ,a damage. The bufi'alo are very destructive to the spawn of other fish, and it is an o])eu question whether the ])rohibition of spearing is a benefit or a damage to the fishing interests. Most of the fish taken in the shanties were bufi'alo anyway and it is claimed by those who have studied the subject carefully that the number of small fi'sh taken with sjiears l)ears no comparison t(j the amount of :^i)awn destroyed by tlie rapacious buifalo. Th ■ fish tak:'u in this way were usually sold to buyers who ])eddled them through the adjacent country and in neigldxiriiig towns.
392 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
In locatinfi' the liatcherv on the isthnins the question of the rise and fall of water in the lakes was not! considered. This afterwards proved a very important factor and the one <>n which the ultimate success or failure of the scheme larg;el_v depended. In times of hie'h water the tanks w(?re flooded hv liackwater and it was impossible to clean them and tliev became foul to an extent that endani>-ered the life of the sjjawn and vouuii' hsh. On the other hand, in times of low water the su})pl_v was shut oft", the water in Spirit Lake being lower than the tanks. Either extreme was fatal to the success of the liatcherv. Had the tanks been set high enough to be absolutely secure against backwater, and tlien a storage tank and ])i)wer ]mmp put in to secure a sup])ly in times of low water, possibly the ])ro])aga- tion of native tish might have been made a success. But this was not done and the hatchery was allowed to go into disuse be- fore it could be fairly demonstrated whether it was of any prac- tical value or not.
]Mr. Griggs, during his term of office, worki'd hard to enforce the law and prevent illegal tishing in which he was reasonably successful. He was succeeded in ISH-t by George E. Delevan of Estherville. ]Mr. Delevan made no attem]>t in the direction of collecting spawn and propagating fish for the ])nr])nse of restocking the lakes, but gave his attention ])rincipally to en- forcing the laws .and protecting the fish already here. In Aj)ril, 1890, the legislature made provision for erecting a dam across the outlet for the ])urpose of holding the water back except in times of high water, thereby raising the average level of the lakes. This dam was built in the summer of 189G under ^Mr. Delev.an\s direction. It was built of stone and cement and was calculated to be of sufficient height to hold the water in t'lie lake to about its medium level before any was allowed to escape. On the top of this dam it is proposed to have a system of screens and racks of sufficient capacity to .allow a free flow of water
THE FISH CAR 393
over tlie dam, l)iU to prevent the passage of fish. This is a move in the right direction, and if the dam stands the test of higli water, the most important one so far made. The water was very low the snnnner the dam was hnilt and has not since been high enongh to rnn ont of the lake.
Another project wdiich ^Mr. D<3levan has worked with a good degree of success is the taking of fish in the hayoiis of the Mis- sissippi River and shipping them to the inland lakes and streams. The Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Northern Railroad Company offered the state an old superintendent's car on condi- tion that they would remodel it and fit it u[) for a fish car. Mr. Delevan presented the subject to the legislature and suc- ceeded in securing an appropriation for this purpose and he soon had his fish car ready for business. It is a well known fact that the Mississippi River, through its entire length, is lined with bavs, inlets and bavous and that in times of freshet these are flooded with water from the river, and as the water goes down they become land locked ponds with neither inlet nor out- let. These ponds are often well stocked with fish from the river, and as the water becomes stagnant they die in great nui»- bers. Mr. Delevan's sc^ieme was, as soon as possible after the spring overflow, to seine out the more prcdific of these ponds and ship the fish thus obtained to the inland waters, and it was for this purpose that the car was fitted up. So far the experi- ment h.as lieen attended with a good degree of success, and if intelligently and energetically continued, bids fair to be of ma- terial advantage to the fishing interests.
In 1896 the legislature changed the name from ''fish com- missioner" to "fish and game warden," thus indicating that in the future there would be added to the alreadj- multifarious duties of the position that of hunting down and securing the punishment of violators of the laAvs against illegal hunting and fishing. The original idea of propagating and rearing our na-
394
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
tive fish for the i)nrpo?e of restocking the lakes or keeping up the supply seems to liave been abandoned. As to whether this is good policy or not there is a wide difference of opinion. Those 'who are cognizant of the degree of success which attended the efforts of the state of Xew York and some others to restock their depleted lakes, are of the opinion that it was a mistake to allow the old hatchery to go into disuse and Avonld like to see it re- built, enlarged and placed in the hands of a competent natur- alist with the understanding that it should be worked to its full- est capacity. In 1898 the legislature passed an act prohibiting winter fishing altogether and fixing the closed season from the first of Xovembcr to the fifteenth of M,ay following.
MILWAUKEE DEPOT AT OKOBOJI.
CHAPTEE XXXIII.
EARLY BOATING THE FIRST SAILBOATS THE
FIRST REGATTA A LUCKY ACCIDEXT^ — -OTHER
BOAT RACES THE YACHT CLUB A NARROW ES- CAPE THE FIRST STEAMERS THE FAVORITE AND
ALPHA LARGER STEAMERS DEMANDED THE HIA- WATHA THE BEN LENNOX AND THE QUEEN
OTHER STEAMERS THE OKOBOJI.
jLOSELY connected with the resort business, and indeed a part of it, is the boating business. The adaptiveness of tlie lakes to this sport was what attracted the atten- tion of the early pioneers. Previous to this time it is supposed to have been the headquarters of a band of Yankton Sioux as a temporary resort, but there is no evidence that they . ever regarded it in the light of a permanent home. It has al- ways been the popular idea that the Indians were very expert in handling canoes and in everything pertaining to water cr.aft. 'Now, so far as the Sioux are concerned, this may be or may not be true. One thing is certain, there is absolutely no evidence of their ever having had any canoes or craft of any kind on the lakes. During the summer of 1857 the boys at different times made careful search (jf places where they suspected canoes might be concealed but never succeeded in iinding an}- and finally came to the conclusion there were none here. The query at once be- comes interesting: Did the Indians of this locality ever h.avo any means of navigating the lakes, except the temporary rafts that could be quickly built to meet an emergency and as quickly destroyed ? It would seem that if they had ever had canoes on the lakes in any number some vestige of them wonld have lioen discovered by the white settlers, but nothing of the kind was
EARLY BOATING 397
ever found and it is an open question whether they ever had any, ]N^o sooner had the white settlers established themselves here in the spring of 1857, than about the first thing they set them- selves about was to provide some means for crossing the narrow places. At first they used a raft, but early in the summer two log canoes were constructed, one in Okoboji Grove by W. B. Brown and Lawrence Furber, and the other in Center Grove by R. U. Wheelock .and Lewis Hart. They were made from bass- wood logs about twelve feet long, and possiblv from twenty to twenty-two inches in diameter. They were capable of carrying two persons each in still water, provided they kept very quiet. This was the size of the lake fleet that summer.
It will be remembered that a small sawmill Avas brought in and set up late in the fall. Several rowboats were buiU as soon as lumber could be had. They would be considered nondescript affairs compared with the graceful craft of more recent times, l)ut they were staunch and safe and supplied a severely felt want. jS^Qt much was done in the way of sailboats for several vears. Occasionallv some one would rig a small sail to a row- boat and thus relieve the monotony as well as the labor of row- ing, but it was not until .along in the seventies they turned their attention to sailboats. Who Avas the first to construct a sailboat 'on the lake is not positively known.
O. Crandall and a man boarding with him l)y the name of Benedict put up ,a boat in the early seventies which they called the "Martha Washington,"' which was one of the first, if not the verv first, sailboat on the lakes. About the same time Billv Lilywhite built one on Spirit Lake which he named the ''Old Tub." Zina Henderson, at Okoboji, built a little two-master which was christened with the taking name "Lady of the Lake." B. B. Van Steenburg was much interested in the early boating movements and had a yacht put up from a model sent him from ^ew York, which he claimed was the same as that of some of
398 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the fastest sailers in the Xew York yacht club. She was very staunch, set low in the water and WT>nld stand up under a cloud of canvas. He named her the '^Spook." In order to work up enthusiasm in the yachting interest, Mr. Van Steenburg- pro- posed a series of races, and to encourage the sport offered a purse of twenty-five dollars to be distriluited in prizes to the contestants. The first of these races came off August 1, 1870. There were six entries : First, the ''Old Tidi," by William Lily- white, L. W. Waugh, captain; second, "Martha 'Washington," O. Crandall, li. L. Wilcox, captain; third, ''Lady of the Lake," Henry Baxter, Zina Henderson, captain ; fourth, "Little Red Wagon," A. A. Mosher, owner and cajitain ; fifth, ''Queen of the West," J. F. Hall, owner and captain ; sixth, "Okoboji Star," George Chase, OAvner and captain. Van Steenburg did not put his own boat into the race, but kept it for the u^e of visitors.
There were no steamers on the lake then. The course was the Avhole length of West Okoboii and back, the two biuivs having been placed as near to each end of the lake as possible and give the boats room to pass .around them, thus making the distance to be sailed fully twelve miles in a right line, but as there was a strong south wind they had to beat across the lake several times before the south buoy was turned, thus making the actual distance sailed sever.al miles greater. They started from a point opposite Van Steenburg's house near the north end of the lake. Soon after getting their send off it became apparent that the real contest w,as to be between tlie (^Id Tub and the Martha Wash- ington, both being handled l)y experienced and skillful sailors. They soon left the others far behind and beat their w^ay up to the south buoy, which they turned within finir minutes of each other, the Martha being in the lead. They now spread out their canvas, pulled up their centerboards and made a straight run for the north buov six miles awav. In nuikiiic tliis run the Old Tub
THE FIRST BOAT RACE 399
passed the Martha iWashing-toii and made the turn about five minutes first, but in beating hack to the starting ])oint the Mar- tha gained on her competitor so that she was less than two min- utes behind when they passed the score. In another half mile she would have evened things u]), but the Old Tub took first money, the 'Martha second, and a half hour later George Chase came in with the Okoboji Star and tdok third. The other three boats made no pretense of finishing the race. 'Idic Okoboji Star was a new boat that had just been built, and _Mr. Waugh is re- ported to have made the remark at the close of the race thai lie could take the Star and beat either of the others.
A curious accidents occurred in eonnectiou with this boat that might have proved much more serious than it really Avas. After the race Mr. Chase left the Star for a short time in care of W. B. Arnold. The next morning Mr. Arnold thought it would be a fine idea to take his family and a few friends out for a sail. The party consisted of some six or eight women and children, the only two men being Mr. Ar- nold and Mr. Albee, of Spencer, neither of whom knew any-^ thing al)out handling a sailboat. They started oif very smoothly for a time, but after passing the protecting bluffs of Pillsbury's Point thev found the wind w.as blowing; a stiff breeze from tihe south and their boat j)lowed the water at a lively rate. Things began to look serious, and Mr. Arnold decided to get back if he could. In bringing his boat around, instead of coming around head to the wind as a sailor would, he ''jibed; round" and in doing so the boat capsized, throwing the whole party into the lake. Messrs. Arnold an<l Albee directed and encouraged the women and children to hang on to some part of the boat or rig- ging so that the^y might keep afloat until they were rescued or drifted ashore. Mr. Olin Pillsl)urv saw the accident from his place and at once set out in a small rowboat to render such as- sistance as he might. ITis l)oal was light and two was all he
400 DICKINSON COUNTY • IOWA
could take at a time. He accordingly took in Mr. and Mrs. Al- bee and directed the others to hold on and he wonld be h.aek as soon as possible. He soon eanie hack for the second load. By that time the capsized boat was drifting direct for Dixon's Beach and WT)uld evidently be ashore before a third trio eonld be made. After the first scare was over the ])arty liad no ])artienlar trou- ble in hanging to the l)oat or rigging. They all reached solid ground in safety witih no more serions resnlt.s than a thorough wetting, some hysterics and a good scare. It is reported that Mr. Arnold has never been out in a sailboat since. The only Avonder is tluit the whole party were not drowned.
Indeed, any intelligent person watching and noting the reck- less carelessness manifested by inany summer tourists in some of their wild pranks with saill)oats, can only wonder tliat acci- dents are not far more frequent than they are. It's the old story, "fools for luck.'' If they knew more .a1)ont boating they would not dare take the chances they do.
A second race on practically the same lines a- tlie first was arranged to come off over the same course on Saturday, the six- teenth of September. The same boats were on h.and for the race, except the Old Tub and the Queen. The Old Tul) was on Spirit Lake, and it was too much work to get her over the isthmus, and the Queen had had enough of it. Iliis time ]\rr. Waugh handled the ]MarthaAVashington. The wind was blow- ing a perfect gale, accompanied with some rain, but the boys istarted in for their race all the same. All of the boats were soon blowm ashore or dis,a1)led, except the Martha Washington, which under the careful bandling of j\lr. Waugh made the race and pocketed the prize.
Other and larger crafts wei'c added to the sailboat fleet tlie next season, the most noted of which were the "Foam," by T. J. Francis, of Spirit Lake, and the "Swan," l)y James F. Hall, of Okoboji. The "Petrel," by the Henderson boys, was put on
OTHEK RACES 401
a little later. During the next snninier it was proposed to have a three days regatta, commencing on the fniivth day of July. As before Mr. Van Steenbnrg put up a twenty-five dollar purse in addition to which each of the boat owners put \\p .an entrance fee. As before there were six entries. The Foam and the Swan were new^ boats, while the Martha Washington and the Okoboji Star were not entered. The Foam was handled by L. W. Waugh, ,and the Swan by Owen Gowan, both skillful sailors. A writer in the Beacon (who was an eye witness) describes the outcome of the first) day's race as f ollow^s :
"The Foam turned the buov iust one minute and thirtv seconds in advance of the Swan, and wdien they crossed the score on the downward passage the distance between them was so short that betting Avas considered decidedly unsafe. Of course the interest in the race centered in these tw^o crafts and the outcome was eagerly awaited, and nobody was much sur- prised when they came in just two minutes and thirty seconds apart, the Foam leading."
Baxter's Lady of the Lake got away w^itli third money, beat- ing all competitors of last year. The second day the wind was so light that the race was decidedly uninteresting. The entries were the Foam, Spook, Swan, OM Tub and Lady of the Lake. The Foam, by reason of her enormous spread of canvas, soon distanced all competitors, easily winning first ])lace. The Swan, Spook, Old Tub and Lady of the Lake came in in the order named.
On the third and last dav but three of the boats contested, the Foam, the Swan and the Spook. Soon after starting the Swan was disabled, and the Foam had things her own Avay.
A yacht club was formed at this time. Rules for measuring boats, for figuring time allow.ances and for governing races gen- erally were adopted and published in pamphlet form. The first officers of the yacht club were Commodore, L. W. ;Waugli ; Vice-
Elva. Foam.
Spook.
Sailboat.
Uoklen Rule.
THE YACHTING FLEET 403
Commodore, Charles G. Chesebro ; Rear Commodore, Henry Baxter ; Secretary, A. A. Moslier ; Treasurer, Henry F. Rice ; Measurer, L. W, iWaugh. Several other races were had first and last under the management of the yacht club in many of which a good degree of interest was taken, l)ut aftier a time it became an old story. The interest died out and the yacht club went to pieces.
In the meantime the Henderson brothers bought the Foam and made regular trips with her from Spirit Lake to Arnold's Park. She was the first craft of any kind on the lake to run for passengers, and did a fair stroke of business. A somewhat sin- gular incident occurred in connection with these trips that is worth preserving. One day A. A. Henderson started from town
on his retjurn trip, accompanied by Morgan and E. V.
Osborn. The weather was unsettled .and threatening, but for all that the boys had no apprehension of any trouble. They started from the dock, made the run through the narrows and past Stony Point .all right when they noticed a rapidly moving cloud, more threatening in appearance than anything they had before seen. It proved to be a regular twister. Henderson pro- posed dropping under the lee of one of the sheltering points and wait until the storm had passed, but the others were very anxious tio get home and urged him to keep on his course, claiming that with their present rate of speed they would make it in twenty minutes more and that it would probably be that time before the storm would reach them. Henderson yielded and kept his course. When pretty well across the lower lake the squall struck them. They had just before lowered and furled their main sail and were running with the jib alone. As the squall struck it caught the boat up .almost out of the water and turned it bot- tom upwards and hurled it down with such force as to drive the mast some twelve feet into the mud in the bottom of the lake, and there she stuck fast.
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DICKINSON COUNTY • IOWA
Henderson was the first to extricate himself from the rii!,ii;ing: and climb to the top of the overturned l)(>at. For a moment he thought his companions must he drowned, as they were nowhere to be seen. Soon, however, they swam out; from under the c,a])- sized boat and succeeded in (•lind)ing u]) ly the side of their companion. Fred Roif was watching- the boat from the shore Avhen the flaw struck. At first the cloud between him and the boat was so dense thati he could see nothing, but as soon as it passed he saw the predicament they were in, ,and as soon as pos- sible procured a rowboat and started for their relief and brought them oif in safety.
It will be impossible to follow this history of the early yachts and yachting farther as more space lias already been given it tlian was at first intended. Interest in tlie s])ort lias l)een keut up since that time in varying degrees of intensity. Xew boats have from time to time been added to the yachting fleet and much good n.atureil i-ivalry indulged in. In tlic later days many summer tourists have acquired interests in the neighboi'liooil of the lakes, and it is not i)robable tliev will allow the inviiioratinii'
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STARTING FOR THE RACE.
THE FIRST STEAMERS 405
and manly sport tio languish and die ont. ^fany are investing' in the modern launch, but the enthusiastic sailor will stick to his sheets .and spars and insist that nothing can quite take the place of
''A wet sheet .and a flowing sea A wind that follows fast, And fills the wdiite and swelling sail And bends the gallant mast."
The first steamer on the lake was the old "Favorite." She was a small, strongly built steam launch with a carrying capacity for about thirty passengers. She Avas built <>n the (Vdar Kiver and Avas run there for a time, after which she was shipped bv rail to Varharren of Spencer, and he loaded her aboard a pair of trucks and sent her up to Okoboji and turned her over to John ITackett, w^ho Avas to fit her up and run for passengers between Arnold's Park and Spirit Lake. E. O. Henderson, of Okoboji, was employed as engineer. After overhauling her and readjust- ing her machinery they soon had her ready for business. At the time of her first trip the Murphy temperance meetings were being conducted in the M. E. Church in town, and it was dur- ing the progress of one of these meetings that the outside still- ness Avas broken by the clear, sharp notes of a steam whistle ringing out on the evening air. It Avas the first steam Avhistle ever heard in Dickinson County. The astonished audience Avere taken completely by surprise l)ut fcAv if any of them having heard of the fitting up of the' steamer. The result Avas that eA^ery boy in the croAvd made a straight shoot for the door and the bo.at landing, leaving Mr. C\[urphy Avith a sonieAvhat dimin- ished audience. The Favorite Avas the onlv steamer on the lakes for tAvo years or more.
In the summer of 1882 the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & jSTorthern Railroad Company brought up from Burlington a steamer, the "Alpha," Avhich they placed on Spirit Lake. Her
406 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
capacity was about fdvty-fivc passengers. Like tlie Favorite slie was staunch and strong. She remained on Spirit Lake until superseded by the Queen, when she was sold to Captain Ben- nett, who hauled her across the isthmus and run her one sea- son for passengers on East Okobojr. ^ About this time Sam Crozier bought the Favoi-ite, .and the Henderson boys the Alpha. These two were the best known of the early boats.
The liuihline; of the railroads into the countv in 1882 so stim- ulated the summer resort business that more and better boats were demanded. In answer to this demand several new boats were projected. First, Captain May, of Minneapolis, encour- aged by the Chicago, Milwaukee k St. Paul Railroad people skipped in the material and nnichinery for a larger and more pretentious steamer than had yet been attempted. She was over eighty feet in length Avith a proportionate breadth of beam and depth of hold, and had a carrying capacity for about three huiidred passengers. She was put up by Mr. Godfrey, .a ]n-ac- tical boat builder of many years' experience on the Mississippi Kiver, and evervthing about her was intended to be iirst-class. She was reported at the time to have cost between six and seven thous.and dollars. She was launched in May, 188-i, and made her first trip from Arnold's Park to the Orleans about July 1, 1884. She was christened the '^Ben Lennox" for one of the officers of the Milwaukee road who presented her with a mag- nificent bunting flag.
The same year the Ben Lennox was put up on the lower lakes the Burlington, Cedar Eapids & Xorthern Railroad Company decided to replace the Alpha with a first-class craft on Spirit Lake* Accordingly they contracted with a Dubuque company for the construction of an iron steamer to be first-class in every detail. All her parts were shaped and fitted at the works and then sent to the lakes to be put together. She was a remarkably staunch, smooth-running craft, and was rated at aboi;: two hun-
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408 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
(Ired and fifty passengers, being a little less than the Ben Len- nox. Her cost was ahont the same. When lannehed she was christened the "Queen," which name has stuck to her ever since.
Xot far from the time these two boats were completed, or perhaps a little later, Captain Kend.all- built the ''Hiawatha" on East Okoboji, opposite t'.he town of Spirit Lake. In size she l)ore a kind of mean ]iroportion between the smaller and the larger boats, being rated at abont eightv passengers. She w.as strongly built and of good material and has stood the test of time and hard usage as well as any boat on tire lake.
One or two small steam launches were put on about this time to ply between town and the Orleans. This Avas the make up of the early fleet of steamers. Soon after this, John Pallister, ■of Ottumwa shipped up two small steamers, the "Lelia" and the "River Queen," which for a time plied on the lakes between different points. Parties at Sj^irit Lake organized the Spirit Lake and Okoboji ]^avigation Company. Their scheme was to build a large barge to be towed by a tug to different points around tlie lakes for the accommodation of dancing and pleasure parties ,as occasion might require. They built the barge and then for a tug they took the rigging off the Foam and put in a small steam engine for tylie propelling power. The Foam had made a splendid record as a sailing craft but she proved far too light and frail for a tug and the scheme proved a failure.
Soon changes began to occur in the ownership and manage- ment of the several boats. The Hlenderson boys sold the Alpha to a Mr. Fuller, of Spirit Lake, w)ho took her off the lakes and shipjjed her to (\Vorthingi;on. They then bought the Hiaw^atha of Captain Kendall. Mr. Maxon, a conductor on the Burling- ton, Cedar Eapids (Sc jSTorthern Railroad, built a flat-bottomed side-wheeler after the style of the river boats but there was some defect in her model. She w^as slow, awkward, hard to manage and eventually proved a failure. Crozier sold the Fa-
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410 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
voi'ite to Mr. H. Brown of Spencer and builf a new l)aat, the "Huntress," wliieli he managed snccessfullv several seasons. The name of the boat was afterward changed to "Illinois.'" The Hendersons sold the Hiawatha to Mills and Allen and built the "Iowa." This boat ranked next to the Pueen in size and was first-class in all respects. Several smaller crafts were from time to time added and others taken otf whieli cannot be noticed in detail. After several ehani;es the Ben Lennox was bouo-ht bv the Manhattan Beach ( 'ompany, who overhauled it and changed the name to the "Manhattan."
By this time the dry seasons had told seriously on the lakes, the average level being mucli lower than formerly, and at times the larger l)oats had difiiculty in making all the points. East Okoboji is the shallowest of the lakes and for a time bad to be almost entirely abandoned. The Manhattan was for a few sea sons run in the interest of the Manhattan Beach Company's watering place, but was afterwards condemned, run ashore at Given's Point, the machinerv and fixtures taken out and tlie hull knocked to pieces and cut up for kindling wood. The Queen was kept on Spirit Lake until after the Orleans Hotel was torn down, when the railway company having no further use for her sold her to the Henderson brothers, who pulled her across into Okoboji and gave her a thorough overhauling. She proved to be in better condition than was anticipated, her hull being prac- tically as sound as ever and her machinery hut little worn. After being painted and renovated she was j^ractically good as new. The Hiawatha, after several deals, came into the hands of the Bro.adgate brothers of Spencer, who continued to run her for passengers.
The Ben Lennox, the (^ueen and the Hiawatha, with the smaller boats, the Favorite and tlie Alpha, were the pioneers of steamboat navigation on the lakes. After the Manhattan was condemned she was sold to']\rr. F. C. Rolf, who took out her nm-
THE FLEET OF TODAY 411
ehinery and fixtures and such of her u])i>er works as were worth saving, and as before stated, split the hull up for firewood. It had rotted to that extent that it was utterly worthless for any- thing else.
Mr. Roff determined at once to Ijuild an entirely new boat from the same model, using only such parts of the old boat as were just as good as new. His plan w^as to secure the best ma- terial obtainable and to have the work first-class. This was in the spring of 1900. As soon as possible after completing the deal he set to work on the new enterprise. The ribs and timbers for the hull were of oak while the planking was Douglass fir from Washington. The hull was made much stronger than the old Ben Lennox. Such of the old machinery as was not just as good as new was replaced by new. The old boat had been overhauled and remodeled so many times that there was Imt little of the upper works that could he utilized, thus making it necessary to build new all around. It was intended to have her ready and in the water by the commencement of the resort sea- son, but an unavoidable delay in forwarding the lunil)er from the Pacific coast prevented this and it was near August before ■she was fully completed. She was christened the "Okoboji." She was the third to receive that name but the other two were short lived affairs. In appearance she was the Ben Lennox over again as that craft was originally constructed and is the most roomy and one of the best appointed boats on the lake.
The steamers on the Okoboji at the present time are as fol- lows: 1 The Okoboji, F. C. Roff, capacity 300 passengers; built in 1900. 2 The Queen, Henderson Brothers; capacity 250 passengers ; built in 1884 ; iron hull ; good as new. 3 The Iowa, Henderson Brothers; capacity 120 passengers; built in 189G. 4 The Irma, Elmer Clark; capacity 100 passengers; built in 1898. 5 The Hiawatha, Broadgate Brothers; capacity 80 passengers; built in 1884. G The Illinois, capacity 60 pas-
412 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
sengers ; bnilt in 1887. 7 The Orleans ; capacity 60 passengers ; built in 1896. 8 The R. J. Hopkins, 11. J. Hopkins; capacity' 40 passengers ; built in 1806. 0 liiver Queen, R. J. Hopkins; capacity 30 passengers; built in 181»0.
In addition to the above list there are-several steam and A'a])()r launches owned by private parties who manage and control them for their own use and convenience and not for the accommoda- tion of the public. The only steamer on Spirit Lake is the Templar, a small steamer with a carrying capacity for alxuit forty passengers. She is owned and managed ])\ the Knights Templar in connection with their resort at Temjjlar Point. Her name has been recently changed from the "Chicago" to the ''Templar."
CHAPTER XXXIV.
THE TOWIST OF SPIRIT LAKE
SELECTION OF THE SITE ARRIVAL OF THE FIRST
FAMILIES THE FOUR WOMEN WHO ' WINTERED
HERE THE FIRST WINTER THE FIRST BUILDINGS
THE OLD FORT USED AS A HOTEL THE FIRST
FRAME HOUSES THE FIRST SOCIAL EVENT ^AN
OLD FASHIONED FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION
THE FIRST GENERAL STORE THE FIRST HOTEL
HOW THE TITLE TO THE TOWN SITE WAS OB- TAINED THE ENTERPRISE ABANDONED BY THE
ORIGINAL PROMOTERS AND THE LAND PROVED UP
AS A PRIVATE CLAIM LIFE IN THE TOWN DURING
THE WAR SORRY APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN AT
ITS CLOSE THE FIRST IMPROVEMENTS AFTER THE
CLOSE OF THE WAR THE CRANDALL HOUSE THE
OLD CONCRETE THE NEW YORK STORE AND SEV- ERAL OTHER BUILDINGS THE FIRST BANK.
|[HE EARLIT HISTORY of the tow of Spirit Lake is so closely interwoven with that of the county at large that much of it has already been given, and yet there is so much that has not been given that a chapter or two de- voted exclusively to the early history and subsequent develo])- ment of Spirit L.ake as a town seems almost necessary. It has already been related that in the summer of 1850 three brothers- in-law by the name of Howe, Parmenter and Wheelock, all liv- ing at that time in Xewton, Jasper County, Iowa, but formerly from Erie C^ounty, Xew York, conceived the idea of organizing the county, locating the county seat and entering the Land upon which it was located, lay out a town and make a nice stake in
414: DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the sale of lots. This was l>efore the massacre of 1857 ami also before tIu- financial collapse of that same year. By the suceess- fnl maniimlation of snch enterprises men liad iiccnninlated comfortable fortunes in Illinois and Wisconsin and why wasn't their chance as good .as anybody's? Their trip to the \i\k>> in the fall of 1856, when they encountered Inkpadutah's band in camp at Loon Lake, and also their winter trip in Fcbrr.- ary and March, 1857, when they discovered the massacre and m.ade the report on the strength of which the volunt':'<M- expoli- tion under Major Williams was organized, have already been given. Also the second trip and the incidents connected with it.
As has Ijeen previously stated the location for the town site was decided upon in June, 1857. The point at the Okoboji crossing would have been selected had it not been held at that time by the Gr.angers. Indeed, the Grangers canu fiom Red Wing, Minnesota, about the same time and with the same avowed project in mind — that of laying out a town and secur- ing the location of the county seat, but after the financial col- lapse. Granger gradually .allowed his scheme to die out and abandoned the county for good in 1850. The government sur- veys were not made; when the site for the town was selecited. The plat was made in Newton by a surveyor by the name of S. W. Foreman, who was to have a one-tenth interest for making the survey and plat. The plat was made to cover a half section without making any allowances for either excess or deficiencies.
As has been heretofore stated, the site chosen was alxmt half a mile north of the present business center. In addition to the stockade and the building it enclosed there were erected on the town site in' the fall of 1857 three or four kg cabins, the first one of which was built by O. C. Howe and occupied by him that winter .and a! part of the next, summer. It was afterwards turned over to his father's family who arrived during the following summer, !Mr. Howe went down to Xew-
MRS. HOWE AND MRS. KINGMAN 415
ton for his family the latter part of June and arrivi^l here with rhem tht^ seventh of Angnst. It was no jjart of his orig- inal plan to bring his family np that season .and possibly not at all, but events so shaped themselves that he Ijecame convinced that it was absolutely necessary that his family should be here.
The fact has heretofore been noticed that the four women wintering here the winter of 1857 and 1858 were ^Mrs. O. C. Howe, ^Irs. R. Kingman, Mrs. Peters and Airs. Thurston. Mrs. Howe and ]\[rs. Kingman were renuirkal)le women. While they were as unlike each other as it is possible for two women to be they each represented a tyi)e and were leaders of the type so represented. Mrs. Howe was the more scholarly of the two, having been a teacher in Buffalo. In addition to her lit- erary attainments she possessed a rare fund of general informa- tion, and what is still more rare a remarkable versatility of char,acter, wdiich enabled her to adapt herself to her surround- ings w^ithout fuss or friction. She was equally at home with the sturdy pioneers by whom she was surrounded as she would have been in the environments of polite society.
Mrs. Kingman, on the other hand, was modest and retiring- even to the verge of bashfulness, and yet she possessed intelli- gence and refinement of a high order. While not as intellec- tual as Mrs. Howe, yet her refined intuitions .and native good sense made her a prime favorite" with every one coming within the sphere of her influence. Of the other two w^omen perhaps the less said the better. For a period of over eight months, or from the seventh of August until tlie latter part of Ajn-il of the following year, these four women comprised the sum total of female society for a large portion of northwestern Iowa.
There were three or four families in the neighborhood of Peterson that winter, two or three more near Sioux Rapids, one or two at Estherville and three or four ,at the Irisli Colony. These comprise all of the settlements at that time in the state
416 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
west of Alg'oiia and north of (_'liproko<;'. Wli.at <if tnil and ])ri- vation, fear, liardshi]^ and api)i'ehensi()n were cndiirfMl l)y rliose few heroic women dnrina; that memorable wintt'r mav ])e iniau- ined in ])art hnt cannot he des^^rihed and will ever remain an important chapter in the nnwritten history of northwestern Iowa.
The bringing in and getting into o])eration of a small saw- mill in tlu' fall of 1S57 has been noticed, ddie first Inniber ent by it was used by Mr. Howe in putting in tlcors and a ro :»f to his cabin, of which he had .already rolled up the body. Several were clamorous for the hrst hnnber nuule, but inasmuch as Mr. Howe's family were already here and were oldiged to go into camp until his house could' be coniplete{b the rest yielded to him and hv had fairly C(jmfort.able (puirters for his family when winter set in. An arrangement was nnide with ^Ir. Kingman whereby he moved his family into the old forti and kept it as a hotcd. The space betAveen the rear of the build'ing proper and th-e stockade surrounding it was al)ont ten feet. This sj)ace was roofed and floored and dividend nj) into rooms. Floors were also put into the main buihling wliich made quite a roomy affair of it for fluit day.
Mr. Kingman didn't make much in the hotel business at first from the fact that a majority of those traveling through here at that time were never ouiltv of havino' monev. Pavinar customers were the exception and not the rule, and yet the pio- neer instinct was so strong in the host that every one applying w^as bountifully fed, pay or no pay. When the soldiers under Captain ^fartin came up the first of March, ^Ir. Kingman turned over the main building to them, reserving tlie two or three rooms that he had made between the wall of the build-t ing and the west side of the stockade for his own use.
Quite a number of sawlogs were hauled in to the mill that winter, and although from eight hundred to a thousand feet
FIRST BUILDINGS 417
a day was good work for tlieui, still they kept pegging away at it and got ont what they conld. It didn't pay them to run in the winter except to get ont what was imperatively demanded.
The first frame house huilt was by RL U. iWheelock. This Avas the first frame house built in Iowa north of Siouxi City and west of the east fork of the pes Moines River. ( There were none at Cherokee and none between here and there. There were four or five on the west fork of the Des Moines near Humbohlt built the year before. O. C. Howe, B. F. Permen- ter, Henry Schuneman and Doctor James Ball built that sea- son on sites now occupied b}- C. Chandler, E. L. Brownell, F. W. Barron and the Presbyterian Church. Parmenter after- ward sold his place to Ethel Ellis for a hundred ratskins and that was more than some of the rest realized for theirs. A. Kingman built a small Imuse the same season.
A. D. Arthur built a fair sized house just west of town. The place was afterward known as the Barkman place. Henry Barkman first took his claim across the lake on what is now- known as the Pollard ]dace. A year or two later he sold it to Thomas Wyckoff and bought the Arthur place, where he resided up to the time uf his death. Several other frame houses were built on the town site that summer. George E. Spencer built the largest one, which he .afterward sold to L. Congleton, who occupied it until 1863, when he left the state. Years later the house and the land on which it was located became |the property of A. S. Mead, who tore the house down. In the meantime it had been occupied for various purposes ; first as a store, then as ,a school room, and for miscellaneous purposes. Miller and Jones, the mill owners, built a good sized house which they afterwards sold to A. Kingman, who moved it up on his farm (the Stevens place), and lived in it for several years.
418 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
The arrival of diffcrc-.ir ])artios of settlers that sprin"', «iiiid earlv summer, has heeii iioticeil. Thev had come, some from central Iowa, some fi-oiii Illinois and many from western Xew \ork; other ])arrs of the conntrv were also represented. The first social event whi(di hroniiht them -toiicther, and in which they all p.articipated, was a re<>nlai' old fashioned orthodox Fonrth of -Inly celebration held at S])irit Lake, duly 4, 1858. The chief promoters of the scheme were It. U. Wheelock, C. F. Hill, Jx. A. Smith, I\. Tviniiinan and a few others. The place selected for the exercises was in the lirove east of the north end of town, and near where the steam mill was pnt np the fall liefore.
Lnmher was l)roni>,ht from the mill for a ])latforin and seats. It didn't reqnire a great deal as the crowd was not expected to be large. (). C. TTowe presided and Doctor Prescott delivered the oration, his elo([nence, versatility and tact as a speaker never being more manifest th,an on that occasion. He was not notified until the evening before that he was ex]iected to speak, and yet his oration wonld compare favorably with any that have ever been heard here since.
The choir, composed of J. D. Howe, R. U. Wheelock and F. A. Blake and Misses S.arah and Mary Howe and Belle AVheelock would command respect and attention anywhere, and their rendition of the old patriotic songs was applauded to the echo. The Star Sj^angled Banner, Red, White and Blue, Uncle Sam's Farm and other favorites were given to the enthu- siastic and delighted audience, after which B. A. Smith read the Declaration of Independence. At the close of the exer- cises in the grove, all ])arties repaired to the old fort, which had been vacated by the soldiers a few days before, .and w^as again being fitted up for the accommodation of the ])nblic by Mr. King-man. This was made to do duty as a dining room and he .and his wife .soon had ready a repast that, considering the sur-
THE FIRST SOCIAL EVENT 419
roiincliiigs and the difficulties in the way of procnring- neces- sary material, Avonld have been a credit to any locality. It goes without saying that the repast that followed was keenly ap- preciated and hugely enjoyed by all participants.
When the repast was over some time was spent in toasts and responses, impromptu remarks and sly hits, which were parti- cipated in by the crowd at large and tended mncli to increaise the enjoyment of the occasion. One noticeable feature of all the social events of the early diays, was the absence of all con- ventionalities, the hearty good will and good fellowship which characterized the relations of one with another. As evening came on seats and tables were removed and <5ld and young ])ro- ceeded to enjoy the first dance in Dickinson County, Daniel Caldwell and R. IT. iWheelock furnishing the music. Good church members, whose dancing days had been over for years, threw aside their scruples and prejudices for the time being and joined in the general hilaritv and "all went merrv as a m.arriage bell."
Xot much of importance occurred during the fall and winter of 1858 and 1850 that has not already been related as a part of the history of the county at large. It will be remembered that it was in February, 1850, that the vote was taken on the question of disposing of the swamp lands for county buildings. The historv of that transaction and the events growing out of it have already been given in full. The foundation for the court- house was laid that fall and the walls for the building put up the following summer, and a few more houses were built on the town site about this time. Al Kingman also commenced the erection of a house which, after he had it well under way, lie sold to A. D. Arthur who moved it up town and finished it off as a store, the mechanical work being done by W. B. Brown and Hiarvey Frantz. It was not much of a store, but it was the
420 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
first west of the east fork of the Des IMoincs and imrrli i.f Simix City.
The first stock of goods put on sale in Spirit Lake, and that means the first stock for a vast region in this part of the state, washy ]\I. M. Mattheson, a JsTorwegian"; from Mankato, ]\linne- sota, in the fall of 1850. He remained in trade there until some time in 18()8, when he took his stock of goods and niovtMl to Yankton, South Dakota. Some time during the wintci' <if 3868 and 18G-± the store was again occnpii'd hy G. Blackert, who i)nt in another and larger stock of goods, and remained ii trade nntil the summer of 1867. Ahout this time the hnilding became the ])ro})erty of George ('. Bellows, who moved it to the corner now occu])ied l)y the Stevens Block, and rigged it np for a shoeshoj^.
It was during the summer of 18,5!) also that ^Ir. R. Kingman commenced the erection of the first liotel in the county. Pre- vious to that time those interested in tlic oh] fort luul turned their interests, whatever they might have been, over to him, and he tore the old buil<]ing down to make room for the ])ro- jected hotel. There wasn't much in the material that coi\ld be used for anything Imt firewood. Though not wholly completed that season it wias so far along that it was opened to the nublic th.at fall. At that time there was not another hotel building between Mankato and Sioux Gity. Of course every farmer on the route kept travelers if they wished to stay, and many of these farmer stopping places became widely known and de- servedly popular. N'otably so Thomas', at Jackson, and Kirch- ner's, .at Peterson. It is. marvelous the number of wayfarers a well-regulated log cabin would make room for in those days.
Mr. Kingman named his hotel the "Lake View House." Owing to the scarcity of money in the country, it was not very profitable at the start, but after the breaking out of the war, •in the spring of 1861, he had all the business he could handle
THE PIONEER HOTEL 421
until the Minnesota massacre in August, 1862. At that time it became apparent that the danger the early settlers here had subjected themselves to was much greater than was formerly suj)posed and ]\Ir. Kingman, with many others, decided he could not or would not require his wife to endure the fear and apprehension which a further residence here Avould create. Consequently he sold out to ^Mr. Joseph Thomas of Jackson for what he could get.
Mr. Thomas kept the place about two years, during which lime he had all of the business he could handle. During the three years that Spirit Lake w.as a military i)ost, the hotel busi- ness was rushing. Mr. Thomas sold out in 186-kto ^Mr. J. H. Johnston, who ran it until 1807, when he sold to Thomas Wyckuff, who moved it to the present site of the Crandall House, and afterwards sold it to Orlando Crandall. It was afterwards moved back to make room for the present Crandall House, and finally torn down in 18 — •.
The fact has already been referred to that the government survevs had not been made when the town site was selected. Indeed, they Avere not wholly completed and the plats filed in the local land office until about January, 1860. Of course, nothing could he done towards securing the title to the town site until after the plats were filed. This was nearly three vears after the site was first selected. The ardor of the first j)rojectors of the scheme had cooled off materially by that time, and none of them cared to advance the $1.25 per acre necessary to secure the title, and so the matter was allowed to drag along year after year.
The writings that had been given for lots were not worth the paper they were written on. People bought and sold and trafficked in the buildings, but so far as town lots were con- cerned, they were .a standing joke, a laughing stock and a by- word.
422 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Matters pertaining to the title of the tnwii site drifted alimi: in this uncertain and slipshod way nntil some time in 18G4, Avhen Mr. Barkman conceived the project of claiming it under the provisions of the preemption law and ])r()ving it uj) as a private claim. Other parties had considered the same scheme previous to th.at time, but so far no one had cared to under- take it, Mr. Barkman made his claim some time during the summer of 1804, and proved it u]) June 10, 1865. It may be well to remember right here that none of the land in either Center Grove or Spirit Lake townships was ever offered at ]nib- lic sale or was ever subject to sale by private entry, and the only way title could be .acquired at that time was to prove ti]» either under the preemption law, the liomei-tead law, or the rown site law. The preemption law Avas the least troiiljlc ])ro- vided there were uo contestants. The other townships of the county had previously been offered at ])nblic sale and were for several years subject to sale at ])ri\'ate entry, luit these two townships were left out. B.arkman's claim comprised the east half of the southwest quarter, the northeast (piarter of the south- west quarter, and the southwest quarter of the northeast quar- ter of section 4, township 90, range 36, and contained 175 o 5-100 acres, which was one-half of the original town site. Of the other half, the northwest one-fourth of the northeast one- fourth w.as claimed by G. Blackert as a part of his homestead, and the balance, consisting of the west one-half of the south- east one-fourth and the southeast one-fourth of the southwest one-fourth was taken by Joseph Currier and proved up Feb- ruary 1, 1867.
As before stated^ Mr. Barkman obtained title to this June 10, 1865, but it was nearly iive years after this his first survey and plat were made. This survey and plat covered but eighty acres. The southeast one-fourth of the northwest one-fourtii and the northeast one-fourth of the southwest one-fourth of
SECURING THE TITLE 423
section 4, and was made by Emmet F. Hill some time in 1870. This ]")lat had been filed l)nt not recorded, and was lost at the burnina' of the courthouse in February, 187:^. At the next term of court '^Nfr. Barkman procured from the judge an order authorizing him to file for record a co})y, the original having been destroyed, wdiich was done.
Previous to })roving up his claim, Mr. Barkman had prom- ised those having interests in the town site that in consideration of their not putting any obstacles in the way of his securing title, he would deed to them without further consideration the premises to which they laid claim or to which they were entitled. This part of the bargain was honestly kept, and those having buildings on the town site received title to the lots on which they were located. It was in fulfillment of this promise that the county received title to the block on which the courthouse is located, and the school district the one on which the schoolhouse stands.
Somehow the idea has gained credence of late that ^h\ Barkman deeded the courthouse block to the county in consid- eration of being released from the old swamp land contract, of which he was one of the assignees, and that he be .allow^ed to make a new contract whereby all of the swamp land should come to him. Xow this is a mistake. The old swamp land contract had nothing to do with the title to the courthouse lot. Mr. Barkman had nothing to do with the town site when the courthouse was built, and it was not until after the town site was abandoned by its original projectors that he conceived the idea of proving it up as a private claim. He had not observed the details of the preemption Law very carefully and had any determined opposition been made could not have proved up. and he was only too glad to agree to any reasonable proposi- tion that those living on the land to which he sought to perfect title saw fit to make. He had never lived on the land at all.
424 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
There were others who had lived on it for years, and had any of them offered any serious opposition he conhl not liave per- fected his title, and for that reason he promised to jjrotect the rights of all parties, and to carry out the agreements ]n"evi- oiisly made hy the original projectoi's ^relative to streets and public grounds, which promise was kept to the satisfaction of all concerned.
As before stated, Mr. Barkman proved uj) his claim on the tenth day of June, A. D. 18(35, and the patent to the land issued April 2, 18t)(i, but it was not until the summer of 1870 that the lirst survey and ]dat of the town site were made. Mr. Barkman, in deeding to those having i)rior interests in the town site, did not in all cases make his descriptions by lots and liloeks, but deeded in ]iatches of different dimensions d;»scriliing rhcm l)y metes an<l Ixtunds. This accounts for so nuiny additions, some of them being on ground covered by the original plat. The measurements of these tracts were often carelessly made, which has been a source of much perplexity in adjusting lines and corners .and determining the rights of parties. .Vs regards the southwest one-fourth of the northeast one-fourth of the sec- tion, Mr. Barkman never laid that out in lots and blocks at all, l)ut sold it oft" in ])atches of from one to ten acres. These tracts were afterwards laid out and ]datted l)y their respectiv9 owners as .additions to the town. It was in this way that Bices, Crandalls, Whitlocks, Shroyers and the several other additions on that forty were made.
The military operations and defensive measures for the ])ro- tection of the frontier have been quite extensively notic;Mb After the withdrawal of the troops, in the summer of 1865, Spirit Lake as a town ]n"esented .a sorry ai)])earance. All of the original promoters (^f the enterprise had gradually aban- doned it, Mr. Parmenter being the last to go, and he left about 1865. Xo buildings had been put up since 1860, and some
COMMENCING ANEW 425
that had l)een erected previously to tliat time were now moved to adjacent claims. The war was over. The life and excite- ment incident to militarv occupation gradnally died out. A majority of the soldiers enlisting from here came back to their i3laces, but many remained away permanently. It was like commencing anew. About the first move made so far as the town site w.as concerned was the moving of the' old Lake View House from the north end of the town to the present site of the Crandall House, by Mr. Wyckoff in 1866. He did not re- tain the ownership of it long, but soon sold it to Orlando Cran- dall, who thoroughly overhauled it and soon made it one of the best known and poj^ular stopping places in this j^ortion of the state.
It was about this time that George C Bellows bought tht3 old store which he moved to the present site of the Stevens Block and fitted up for a shoeshop. In December, 186!S, li. A. Smith made an arrangement with Mr. Bellows whereby he put in a stock of goods in the front of the building, while Bel- lows conducted his shoe store and repair shop in the rear. R. A. Smith was in business here tintil the fall of 1870. when he I'uilt a store at ]\[ilford and moved his stock down there. Mr. Bellows then occupied the entire building, where he continued in business for three or four years, but his health failing, he disposed of his goods, and the store was next occupied by H. ( '. Xims as a drugstore. Th'is was the first drugstore in the county conducted by a compoteut druggist. There h.ad been irregular dealers previous to this time, both in Spirit Lake and Milford, but they knew little or nothing of the business and soon threw it up.
^h\ Xims was succeeded Ity George Haskins of the firm of TIaskins tSir Ballard, of Estherville. About this time the build- ing became the property of ^farcus Snyder, and after Mr. Has- kins moved away, which w.as in 1876, he moved it up bv the
426 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
side of the old postoffice building to make room for tlie Tjecicmi Block. Here Mr. Snyder opened np tlie first banking house in the county. He associated with him William ^i. Smith, since prominent in banking circles, and commenced doing a regular banking business February 1,- 1877. It will thus be seen that this little insignificant sixteen by twenty-four, oner story building has had transacted under its roof more business and more difi^erent kinds of business than usually falls to the lot of many more pretentious edifices, and in all the different lines it was the pioneer. It was the first general store; the first boot, shoe and leather store; the first drugstore, and the first bank in the county, and in each of these several lines the volume of business transacted was exceptionally large.
In the summer ()f 1869, Roscoe Brown built quite a roomy house and fitted up the front room as a restaurant, which he conducted for several months. It not proving profitable, he sold the building to A. W. Osborn, who moved it down town and fitted it up as a residence. Another of the early day build- ings was erected by Dan Bellows for saloon purposes, and was occupied several years that way, first by Bellows and later by E. P. Ring. It was afterwards bought by George Edwards, Avho moved it back to make room for the Minnie Waukon Hotel, which he built on the site, using the old saloon building for a dining room. The Minnie Waukon Hotel was built by Mr. Edwards in 1874. Later it came into possession of E. P. Ring, who completed it and opened it u]) to the ])ublic, his first advertisement appearing in the issue of the Beacon of March 30, 1876. The buildings erected at this time were most- ly of n,ative lumber, although a great many loads of shingles, finishing lumber and siding were brought through froin ]Man- kato, which was then the railroad terminus. The road v-as con- tinued to St. J.ames in 1870, and Le Mars in 1871.
EARLY BUSINESS SCHEMES 427
It was in 1809 that the movement for takiiii;- homesteads on the ])rairie away from tinil)er first set in. 'J'his has alreaVly been noticed. Simultaneously with that move came increased activity in the work of huilding n]) the town. One of the first and most important moves in that direetinn was the Imihlino' of the old concrete store by Dan Stone on the northeast corner of Hill and Lake Streets. The work on the l)uilding commenced in 1870, and it was ready for occupancy the same fall. Tt Avas here that A. 'M. Johnson in 1870 commenced his career as a merchant. Another of the more im])ortant huilding's of 1870 was the one erected by E. Palmer and H. Barkman, after- \v.ards known as the postoffice buildino'. This was the most pretentious affair that had been attempted u}) to that time. It was about twenty-four by fifty feet in size, and two stories high. Mr. Palmer put in a stock of hardware, in addition to which he handled agricultural im])lenients. The Beacon print- ing press w.as at one time set up in the upper story. This building afterwards fell into the hands of Henry Baxter and is a part of the Baxter Hbuse.
The burning of the courthouse in February, 1872, has been noticed in the history of the county at large, also the rebuild- ing of it the following summer. It was about this time, or shortly after, that the school district erected a building sonth pi the Crandall House and finished off the lower story in two schoolrooms, while the upper story was rented to the Masons and used by them for a lodge room. Several years later this building was moved to the schoolhouse lot and was fitted up and used for school purj^oses until 1883, when it was torn down to make room for the present structure.
The pioneer blacksmith shop of Spirit Lake was established by Jemerson & Chisholm, their first card .appearing in the paper December 6, 1870. Others had been here previous to that time and made a show of starting in business, l)ut they soon played
428 DICKINSON COUNTS - IOWA
•out. Jemei'son retired after the first year, his health failinc;, since which time (.^hisholm has continued the business in his own name.
The grasshopper invasion (1873 to 1877) has been quite cxtensivelj noticed. For the five years preceding this time the growth of the town w.as steady but not rapid. The depress- ing effects of that terrible scourge were fully as disastrous to the town as to the country, and the only wonder is that any one attempting to do business was able to pull through. In 1874 Mr. Johnson abandoned the old concrete and moved into the new s^ore he had just erected on his lot opposite the court- house. Here he fitted up what was at tbat time the be«t equip- ])ed gL'Ucu'al etore in this portion of the stale. The necessity for juore roomy quarters soon became apparent, and he met the emergency by erecting an addition the same size as tlie orig- inal on the north side of the building.
The next building of importance was erected by Philip Doughtv, during the summer of 1873, This was the lari>'est and most imposing structure that had yet been attempted. It was sixty feet long, twenty-five feet wide and two stories high, with a basement full size of the building. The main buildinjx was finished off as a general store and occupied as such, first by Philip Doughty, then by J. A. Doughty and later by Palmer & Doughty. It was at this time known as the New York Store. Later still it came into possession of W. S. Beers. Aftpr his death it was occupied for several years by J. P. Calvin as the "Variety (Store," and was at last moved away to make room for the Stevens Block. The basement was furnished and used for a time by E. P. Ring as .a billiard room. It was afterwards fitted up and occupied as a residence, first by J. A. Doughty, and later by W. S. Beers. The upper story was for a tiniio used as a public hall. It was afterwards rented to the ^Masons and used by them as a lodge room.
CHAPTER XXXV
spirit lake town continued the early mer- chants the early business houses gener- ally the beacon block ^the new cran- , .
bali, house the coming of the railroads-^y-
the roller skate craze incorporation of
the town the first officers the ne\y,
courthouse the first brick buildings the^
stevens block the electric lights a. il. ■ :
Johnson's store — the roller :mill — the cold storage plant.
X MAY, 1877, O. S. Jones and J. A. Ellis formed a part- nership for the general trade. Previous to this time" " each of them had been carrying on the grocery business "on his own hook," but noAV they consolidated and run a general store. They started in the old Baxter concrete, but iinding that too much to one side, they soon moved up on Hill Street, .and when the Beacon Block was completed in 1879, were the first to occupy the store rooms. They sold out in the spring of 1880 to F. W. Barron.
The fact that Snyder, Smith & Company started the first bank in the county has already been noticed. During the same summer B. B. Van St«enburg erected the small brick ])uilding on the north side of Hill Street, which he afterwards used as a home foT his bank. His card first appears in the paj^er August 23, 1877. These two institutions had their .■origin in grasshopper times and grew up side by side, until finally, after many changes and vicissitudes, the Snyder, Smith & Company Bank became merged in the Dickinson County
. 1
430
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
From a photograph in possession of J. P. Dare, taken about l87fi.
SPIRIT LAKE.
Bank and the Van Steenbiirg* Bank tlie First ^NTational Bank of Spirit Lake.
Dr. E. L. Brownell ])nrcliase(l the Willard property in 1887 and commenced })ractice that season, dividing' his time hetwoei; Spirit Lako and Jackson. Later he iniproviMl a hnihlinc,' wliich had orioinallv been erected as a i>ran.arv bv i)nttinG,' on an ad- dition and finished the whole off as a drugstore, where he com- menced bnsiness in the sunnner of 1878, his advertisement first appearing in the issue of Angnst fifteenth of that year, and it is only natnral to sui)pose that it has appeared in every issue since, and may be considered the pioneer drnggist of the county, as those preceding him had but imperfect stocks and remained in l)usiness but a short time. The old iWillard store he used as a dwellinc; house until he built his residence in the
NEW IMPROVEMENTS 431
(*ast part of town when the old store was torn down to make I'ooni for better improvements.
In the spring of 1877 T. J. Francis and S. P. Middleton erected a blacksmith and machine shop, making a specialty of wagon w^ork and repairing farm machinery.
A. L. Sawyer and P. S. Mott were the first to start in the livery bnsiness, beginning in 1874. They were succeeded by Johnston & Grilbert the followang year, w^ho in addition to the livery business, had the Spirit Lake and Sibley and the Spirit Lake and Worthington stage lines.
C. H. Ayers was the pioneer insurance worker, he commenc- ing as early as 1872 or 187o. Previous to that time but little had been done in insurance and that little by outside parties. Mr. Ayers was at the same time doing quite a stroke of busi- ness in farm machinery. A. L. Sawyer was at the same time wr»rking insurance and farm machinery, part of the time in connection with Mr. Ayers and part of the time on his own account. By the way high freights and bad debts beat most of the early dealers in farm machinery.
After Mr. Bellows retired, Sam Campbell carried on the boot and shoe business. J. F. Dare was the pioneer furnitur-i man and the first in the undertaking business. Fred Phippin was the first in the harness business, he having started a shop in 1878, and has stuck to it ever since when his health i.vould permit. Various other business schemes were inaugurated .about this time, but most of them were short-lived.
During the early days the legal profession was represented first by Orson Rice, who commenced practice as early as 1864, R. L. Wilcox in 1869, A. W. Osborne in 1870, J. W. Cory in 1874 and W. H. Bailey a few vears later. There werj others, but they came later or remained but a short time and can hardly be said to have worked up a practice.
432 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
The papers of this period mention several other business schemes and enterjirises of minor iiii]i(ii"ran('c, which have not been noticed in detail, which, thoiiiih not vcrv important in and of themselves, help to make up the sum total of the limited business that was possible under adversie cirumstances.
Of course as the business increase;l., better buildings wer^ required. The Beacon Block was erected in 187l> bv H. L. Owens, and was calculated to b.- a little ahead of anythiufi" that had preceded it. There were tliree business rooms on the ground floor, one of which was occupied by the Beacon office and the other two w^ere finished off as store rooms, and were first occupied by Jones (S: Ellis as a general dry goods store. The upper story was finished off as a music hall and opera house, and at that time answered very well the purpose lor which it was intended. The building was known .as the Beacon Block by reason of an arrangement nuide by ^fr. Owen and the Beacon , proprietors whereby the Beacon was to ha\'e pcu-- maneut qiun't(n's in the building, and it was the desire of Mr. Owen that it should be called the Beacon Block. This arraugs- ment remained in force until after ^Ir. Owen disposed of the property and the Beacon had secured ((nart'crs of its ov,!i. The buildine; was shm-tlived and was toi-n down in 181)3 to maki room f(jr the Stevens Block.
The old Crandall House, th? hotcd of the pioneer days, was in 1880 moved back to nuike room for the y)resent structure, Afr. Crandall having ])?come interested in making improve- ments at the north side of the lake, the hot 'I ])roperty in town fell into the hands of T. L. Twiford, wlio move(l hack the old buildins: and erected the new one (ui the same site. Ir was opei>ed to the ])ublic in the spring of 1881. The old building beine- afterwai-d torn down. Since th" above was written the Crandall House has be?n torn down and the site cleared up preparsitfo'v to buildirg a nu dern, firsr-class hotel, to cost about
OTHER ENTERPRISES 433
$40,000. This enterprise is being managed by Mr. J. Bur- mister.
In 1882 B. B, Van Steenburg and Gleorge Baxter erected the double building on the north side of west Lake Street and Van Steenburg moved his bank into the east room of the build- ing, while the other was finished off as a drugstore. There were also other business buildings, together with numerous resi- dences, but they cannot be noticed in detail.
The census of 1880 was the first in which the population was returned separate from the township at large. That cen- sus showed the population of the town to be 277. The Bur- lington, Cedar Rapids & l^orthern Railroad was built into Spirit Lake in July, 1882, and the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul the following spring. Of course, from this time on things were changed. Each of the roads built commodious depots and stockvards, and warehouses and elevators were added when needed.
Two lumber yards had been started in anticipation of the completion of the roads, one by F. W. Barron and the other by D. L. Riley, both of which did a rushing business. Many new buildings were erected, both residences and business blocks. Indeed, there seems to have been a craze for business buildings, and more were erected, as it later proved, than were needed for the legitimate business of the town. The better ones and those in the more desirable locations were used in the business for which they were intended, but some of the cheaper ones have never been used at all except temporarily for store rooms, or something of that nature.
Many new firms appeared in the advertising columns of the paper in 1882 and 1883. J. A. Ellis about that time built what has since been known .as the Dimond Store, and started again in business, but before he was fairly settled, he sold out his store and stock to John Dimond and soon afterward moved to
434 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Milford. Henrv Baxter bonglit the old postoffice l)iiil(liiiii and one or tv;o others and moved them ti>i>,ether, and out of the combination he constrneted the Baxter Honse, Avhich under his management achieved a good repntation and was liberally patronized.
About June 1, 1882, the Lake Park House, by R. P. and D. E. Lombard, was thrown open to the public. This was in times of high water, and the lake shore and boat landing there was supposed to be all that could be desired.
About tliis time the roller skate craze struck the town and everybody skated. Two capacious skating rinks were l)uilt, the first one down l)y the lake near the bridge and the other just north of the Minnie Waukon Hotel. The craze lasted a year or two when it died out entirely. The rink down by the laike was afterwards co.nverted into ,a boat liousc, whih' the other one was torn down and the material used in the construction of a warehouse near the Burlington track.
The Beacon of December 29, 1882, in giving a summary of the improvements in town for the year, enumera'tes a list of one hundred .and seventeen ])uildings erected or reiuodeled at a cost of nearly $110,000. In the course of the article it has the following: iWe find that more than $28,000 have been invested in business houses, about $12,000 in hotel structures and upwards of $50,000 have been put into residences within the corporation. "
By the census of 1885 the population was shown to l)e 751. jMost of the increase came in 1882 and 1883. Indeed, most of the increase from 1880 to 1890 was in those two years. Tine census of 1890 showed a population of T82. This was dis- appointing, as it was but a small increase on that of five years before. Residences had gradually multiplied a,nd it was sup- posed that the population had increased according!}'. That it did not is explained by the fact that the boom following the
TOWN INCORPORATED* 435
building of the railroads broiiiilit in a large iiuinl)er (if me- chanics and transients generally, who were here jnst in time to be enumerated and left soon after. The town was incor- porated in October, 1879, ,and the following otiicers elected: Mayor, A. B. Funk; Efecorder, W. F. Pillsbnry ; Trustoes, A. M. Johnson, J. A. Doughty, W. H. Bailey, T. L. Twiford, J. T. Whitlock, Henry B.axter, The mayors since that time have been : J. A. Doughty, J. W. Cory, B. B. Van Steenburg, Silas Northey, A. W. Osborne, E. M. Betzer, E. D. Carlton, J. B. Stair, A. F. Bergman, V. A. Arnold, William Hayw.ard. The present officers are : Mayor, A. W. Osborne ; Recorder, George F. Buck; Assessor, H. Van Steenburg; Trustees, S. L. Pillsbury, Leroy Davis, C. H. Stone, J. C. Davis, Marcus Sny- der, A. Hurd.
In September, 1889, the question of issuing bonds to the amount of $15,000 for building .a new courthouse was submit- ted to a vote of the electors of the county, and carried by a fair majority, but there being some informality in the notice for the election, it was decided void by the court, but upon a sec- ond submission the previous vote was ratified by an increased majority, and the courthouse w.as built the following season. At that time it was considered the finest one in this judicial district. Larger and more expensive ones have since been built in neighboring counties, but none better in jjroportion to the cost. Many fine residences were erected and the appearance of the town was improved more than its growth in population would imply. In 1883 the old frame rattletrap which had gone by the name of .a schoolhouse was torn down and in its place the present commodious structure w^as erected.
While the courthouse, schoolhouse and Methodist Church were of brick, there were as vet no business blocks of that ma- terial. The first one to be erected was bv E. M. Betzer, cm the northeast corner of Hill and Lake Streets. Since that
436
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
THE SPIRIT LAKE COURTHOUSE.
time this l)lock lias been occiipi(Ml l)y III A. Miller, Jr., as a general store. Abont the same time E. L. Browncll, in con- nection with the Dickinson Bank, made substantial improve- ments on the southwest corner of the same streets. Indeed^ Mr. Betzer and Mr. Brownell were the pioneers in starting the boom for better Imildings and after it Avas once started others were quick to fall in. In 1893 B. F. Stevens, of St. Louis, who had ])reviously erected a large cotf.age in the north part of town, deci(h'd to Iniild a brick block on a more exten- sive and expensive scale than any of his predecessors. In pui'- suance of this plan he decided on the northwest corner of Ilill
THE STKVENS BLOCK
437
and Lake Streets as being best snited for his use. The Beacon •<";£ February third has the following:
"Stephen Stevens, for his brother B. F. Stevens, of St. Louis, yesterday secured options for the purchase of the proji- crties at the corner of Lake and Hill Streets, owned by Mrs. Abbie Rice, Marcus Snyder, William Hayward, F. F. Phip- pin and Mr. Ashby. This is a step preliminary to the erection pi a solid brick block that shall cover the entire plat."
Two weeks later the Beacon says:
"With his lot purchase Mr. Stevens gets the Beacon Block, the Variety Store and the Snyder buildinc;. The first named will be torn down and the others moved to other sites."
The issue of March twentieth notes the execution of the plans, and says :
"They in-ovide for five storerooms with basements of equal floor dimensions. On the corner is located the First Xational
STEVENS BLOCK.
H. A. Miller's Store at the right ; Van Steenburg's at the left.
438 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Bank, un(k'i' which is pUiimed an eh'_i>anr barl)C'r shoj) witii bath rooms; on the second floor, beginning at the alley on the westj are located rooms for the ^Masonic Lodge and next are quarters of eqnal dimensions for the Knights of Pythias. An opera honse with a capacity for abont fonr hnndred seats comes next, and against the Hill Street side are located two elegant suites for office ])nr])oses." *« * *
The issne of April fonrteenth notes the tearing down uf rhe Beacon Block and the Snyder building to make room fur tlie new improvements. Work was commenced .at once and tlie block was ready for ()ccu})aiicy about tlu- hrst of February, 1894.
The first occu]iants were the First National Bank ; Berg- man & Farnham, drugs and groceries; E. C Renken, drugs .and stationery ; John Dimond, general store, and Copley & Blackert, hardware. The opera house %vas opened on the even- ing of February twenty-fifth, by the iWoodward Theatre (\im- pany, in the play of "^The Galley Slave." The lodge rooms were occupied, as planned, by the ]\Iasons and the Knights of Pythias, and are still so occupied.
Closelv connected with the Ituildins; of the Stevens Block is the electric light enterprise. It was Mr. Stevens'- design to heat his building by steam and light it by electricity. He accordingly submitted a proposition to the town council stat- ing the conditions on which hel would put in a plant of suffi- cient capacity for lighting the town and furnishing steam heat for several public buildings. His proposition was that he should be granted a twenty year franchise and assured that for three years he should receive $600 a year for street light- ing at rates paid by Iowa towns of like character. Under the law such a proposition would have to be submitted to a vote before the council could act on it. The proposition was .accord- ingly submitted, and out of a poll of two hundred and six votes there was but one cast against it. The plant was erected
OTHER IMPROVEMENTS
439
A. M. JOHNSON'S STORE.
and so far completed that the light was turned on for the iirst time February 5, 181)4. Six years later Mr. Stevens made an unconditional gift of the power house and the heating and lighting plant to the town, without any reservations or condi- tions whatever. In lUOO the Board of Supervisors arranged to have the courthouse heated by steam from the electric power house lx)iler. This plant is said to represent a value of about fifteen thousand dollars.
In the spring of 1894 Mr. A. M. Johnson decided to erect new quarters. The old store had been in use now twenty years, and although, when l)uilt, it was counted equal or su- perior to the best in this portion of the state, it now began to look a little shabby wlien compared with the recent structures.
440 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
111 May the old store was moved from its foniulations to the corner of the courthouse h)t on th ■ opposite side of the street and work at once commenced. The new l)iiildine.- is forfv-five by one hundred feet and two stories, the h)wer story being fourteen feet in height and the upper one twelve; l)as('jnent full size of the building. The store room proper occupies the entire ground floor and is divided into three departments. The walls were up. and the building under cover about the twentieth of September, and ready for occupancy .about the first of De- cember.
In 1S98 Messrs. Lovesee and Hurd erected a first-class steam flouring mill. Their machinery was all new and of the most modern and iniproved variety. They s])ared no pains or ex- pense to get the best that money would buy. They asked no bonus or subsidy, but siinplv igtipulated with some of the more prominent business men that they should have their exclusive patronage so long as they ])roduced as good an article as could .. i be obtained elsewhere, and the result has iirovcMi entirelv satis- factory all .around.
Another of the later day improvements out of tlie ordinary in towns the size of Spirit Lake, is the cold storage plant. This is another enterprise of B. F. Stevens, and is far reaching in its scope and design. Indeed, there is nothing like it in this part of the state. In addition to the facilities usually fur- nished by cold storage plants for handling' perishable goods, he had put in ,a butter renovator, whereby rancid butter is put through a process of renovation that so improves it that it re- quires an expert to detect the difference between this .and the genuine creamery article. The entire product of this plant is shipped East and the demand is much greater than the supply.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE SPIRIT LAKE POSTOFFICE POSTMASTERS
THE SPIRIT LAKE BEACON^ THE PIONEER NEWS- PAPER THE EARLY ADVERTISERS EARLY HIS- TORY OF THE PAPER BY J. A. SMITH ITS SUB- SEQUENT HISTORY OTHER A'ENTURES IN THE
NEWSPAPER LINE THE DICKINSON COUNTY
JOURNAL THE SPIRIT LAKE DEMOCRAT ''hUCK-
LEBERRy's paper" THE SPIRIT LAKE PILOT
THE DICKINSON COUNTY HERALD CIVIC SOCIE- TIES A. F. & A. M. O. E. S. ROYAL ARCH
KNIGHTS TEMPLAR 1. O. OF O. F. PATRONS OF
HUSBANDRY GOOD TEMPLARS K. OF P. ^. O.
U. W. G. A. R. M. W. OF A. AMERICAN YEO- MEN.
U. WHEELOCK was postmaster from rhe lime the office was established in Februarv, 1858, until np to the time he left the county in 1863. When he left he did not expect to remain .away permanently, consequently did not resign, but turned the office over to Mr. Parmenter, who conducted the office in Wheeloek's name. He kept the office at bis residence, which was at or near the present site of the Pres- byterian Church. After about two years he moved to Boone and turned the office over to G. Blackert, who was the next regularly commissioned postmaster. Mr. Blackert being in trade .at the time, kept the office at the store until he quit busi- ness and went to farming, when he moved the office to his resi- dence which was on the block now occupied by E. I). Carlton. He remained postmaster until the fall of 1869, Avhen he re- signed and was succeeded by Eber Palmer. A year or two
THE SPIRIT LAKE POSTOFFICE 443
previous to this time a second store had been erected by Oliver Compton, and the postoffice was now moved to the new store, where it remained .abont a year and a half, when Mr. Comp- ton sold out to A. Willard, and embarked in the precarious enterprise of building a first-class flouring mill to be run by the water drawn from Spirit Lake through a i-ace dug for that ])ur- pose. The old race is there yet, all else having disappeared long ago.
The disastrous collapse of that enter]-)rise has already been noticed. Compton lost all he had and Barknuin lost lieavil .. .although it did not break him up, l)ut they both found cut i! takes lots of water and some cash to rnn a gristmill. In the meantime Mr, Palmer had moved the postoffice into the build- ing which he and Mr. Barkman had been constructing, wdiicli afterw^ards came to be known as the postoffice building. The postoffice was kept here until the building w,as sold to Henry Baxter and he commenced overhauling it for a hotel, when it was moved to the ISTew York Store. Mr. Palmer held the office until 1883, when he was succeeded by Hon. A. B. Funk, who held it until after Cleveland's first election. Since that time the postmasters have been A. F. Heath, E. L. Brownell, A. F. Berg-man, Joseph A. Smith and A. F. Bergman for .a second term. It was made a presidential office in 1883.
The Spirit Lake Beacon was the first newspaper in the county, and with the exception of the Northern Vindicator, published at Estherville, was the first in the state west of Al- gona .and north of Sioux City. The oldest copy ilhat can be found is Xo. 14, Vol. 1, and bears date December 6, 1870. This would indicate that the first number was issued Septem- ber 6, 1870. But few numbers of the first volume were pre- served. This can be accounted for by the fact that the paper was edited in Spirit Lake ,and printed in Estherville, and each party supposed the other was taking care of the files. Thv3
444 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
regular file commences with the first immber of tlie second volume, and is dated Xovend)er 10, 1871. There was a break of several nuiidiers between the first and second volumes inci- dent to the Inivinu' of a printing' outfit and other contingencies. The scattered numbers of the first volume show the Spirit Lake advertisers for 1871 to have been as follows: A. ^F. Johnson, general store; A. iWillard, dry goods; J. T. 'Whitlock, dry goods ; Jemerson & Chisholm, blaeksmitlis ; Orson Rice, attor- ney; R. L. Wilcox, attorney, land and insurance; A. A. Mosher, attorney and land agent ; W. S. Beers, physician ; Greorge C. Bellows, boots and shoes; E. Palmer, hardware; E. F. Hill, surveyor; W. B. Brown, notary public, surveyor and clerk of district court ; O. Compton, Spirit Lake flouring mills, Bailey stage and express; O. Crandall, Crandall House. A. W. Os- borne was associated with ]\Ir. Rice in the law business before the close of the vear. Of the above list two, A. M. Johnson and D. R. Chisholm, still advertise in the Beacon, and it is only natural to suppose that their advertisements varied, of c-ourse, to suit the varying conditions, have appeared in every num- hev of the paper from first to last.
The first published schedule of the arrival and doj)arture of mails at the Spirit Lake postoffice appears in the issue for March 28, 1871, and is as follows :
''The Blue Earth City mail arrives every Wednesday .at six o'clock p. m., and departs every Thursday at seven a. m. Cher- okee arrives every Friday at eleven a. ni. and departs <very Monday at twelve m. Jackson .arrives Mon(hiy at eleven a. m. and departs Friday at twelve m."
In the issue of June sixth a change is noticed whereby the Cherokee and Jackson mail is carried each way three times a week. Another change was ordered to take effect February 1, 1873, wherebv the mail was carried each wav dailv over this route. Inasmuch as the Beacon is the pioneer paper of the
\
SPIRIT LAKE BEACON 445
county it is entitled to a more extended notice. The following account was written by J. A. Smith, one of its early editors, and was published in the issue of December 0, 1875 :
"Five years ,ago the people of Spirit Lake and Dickinson County made up their minds that a newspaper was necessary to promote their interests. The county then contained about twelve hundred inhalntants. Spirit Lake boasted of a dozen buildings and '^Milford had just been platted. Xot .a very prom- ising field truly but the project was discussed pro and con and finally decided in the affirmative. The question then arose as to who would stand sponsor for the literary fledgeling. The responsibility was a grave one. It entailed much labor without remuneration and the chances were about nine in ten that the j)ublisher would sink money.
"Finally Messrs. Orson EJice and R. L. Wilcox agreed to make the venture, Mr. Rice to attend to the financial arrange- ments and ]\rr. 'Wilcox to do the editorial work. Another im- portant problem was the choosing of a name for the embryo journal. This took some hard thought and Avas for several days the subject of grave deliberation in the Crandall House bar- room, George Bellows' boot .and shoe shop and Roscoe Brown's s.aloon, which were the three principal places of public resort. It was the general feeling that there is everything in a name, and common titles, such as Gazette, Times, Journal, Reporter, etc., were unanimously and indignantly rejected. Who was the first to suggest the "Beacon' cannot be satisfactorily deter- mined, for at least half a dozen different persons claim the honor. LCowever, the name "tooh" as being remarkably apjiro- priate. Why it is so appropriate we cannot explain better than to give the language of an enthusiastic gentleman who had ;i hand in the parturition. Said he, ^The position which Dickinson County occupies geographically, being the most elevated portion . of the state, together with our facilities for navigation,' here he paused and wet his throat with some of Roscoe's distilled lak(> water, 'makes it peculiarly fitting and meet that we should hav.,> a Beacon to shed its light upon the world .and serve as a guide to the weary emigrant seeking a homestead, and by the way, I will show a man a devilish good claim for ten dollars.'
"This last sentence, however, is foreign to the subject and is only introduced for the sake of euphony. The management and name being settled, the question of ways and means was
4i6 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
left to the newly installed journalists who decided to commence by getting- patent outsides and having the inside i^rinted at the Estherville \^indicator oftice. Accordingly the arrangements were thus made and in due time the Beacon appeared in seA'en column folio form with about three columns of home advertis-
ing and some two hundred subscribers, including exchanges and deadheads. In a few weeks ]\Ir. Wilcox retired, leavin the whole bnrden on Mr. Rice. " ^- * >Durina' the balance
inff
^b
of the first year the editorial work fell upon the broad shoulders of A. IW. Osborne, Esquire, who jjeaiormed the onerous task faithfull}^ and Avell. At the end of the first volume ]\[r. Ilice found the balance on the wrong side of the ledger. The cost of having the i)rinting done was greater than' tin* income and he was obliged to have ii new deal or give up the game altogether. * * ■'■•■ So he took the other horn of the dilemma, bought a second-hand outfit of Warren, of the Algona Upper Des Moines, and .after several vexatious delavs the Beacon com- menced its second ^•<>l^me with the outside printed at home.
"From the commencement of the second volume the concern began to be self-sustaining and in ^lay, 1872, ]\Ir. Bice sold out to O. C. Bates, the founder of the Estherville Vindicator. ^ ^ * In October, 1872, Mr. Bates disposed of the oftice to Lamborn & Owen. During the succeeding winter they made extensive additions and improvements. In April, 1873, Mr. Lamborn disposed of his interest in the Beacon and w.as suc- ceeded b}' J. A. Smith. In April, 1871:, Mr. Owen retired and was succeeded by A. B. Funk."
Harmoniously and helpfully Smith & Funk pulled together until the fall of 1870, when the latter retired. In the spring of 1881 A. B. Funk, bought the paper of Mr. Smith and has ever since been owner or part owner of the same. In 1S8() he sold a one-half interest in the Beacon to E. G. Blockert, who h.as with the exception of two years steadily retained his con- nection with the paper.
jThere have been made at different times in the past several efforts to establish a second paper in the town but in the earlier days these efforts remind one of the old nursery rhyme of ''Three little bugs in a basket with only room for
OTHER NEWSPAPER VENTURES 447
two." While it was possible for one economically managed paper to eke out a precarious existence on the limited and some- what uncertain patronage which the earlier days afforded, it was very much of a conundrum whether a second venture could be made a success. The first attempt at a second paper' was made by Carl Eastwood, who in 1880 estaljlished the Dickinson County Journal. As in all new settlements there were times when personal and political rivalries ran high and each party felt the need of an organ, or at least they thought they did. Mr. Eastwood was industrious .and loyal to his friends and worked hard but it w.as uphill business. A part of the time he conducted the paper in his own name and a part of the time in the name of the firm Eastwood Brothers. It was republican in politics and had as liberal- support as could have been expected considering the surrounding conditions.
In 1884 the Eastwoods disposed of it to J. O. Stewart. Mr. Stewart was an old soldier, and a first-class man in every way, and tried hard to make his venture a success. He gave the pub- lic a good, clean paper, of more than average ability, and iden- tified himself with the best citizens in all enterprises calcu- lated to advance the .interests of the town, but the fact soon be- came apparent that there was not legitimate business enough to support the two papers, and he got out of it as best he could.
In 1885 the paper came into the hands of C. H. Ayers and A. F. Heath, who changed its name and polities, calling it the Spirit Lake Democrat. Mr. Heath was the same year appointed postmaster. Indeed, after Cleveland's election in 1884 the founding of a democratic newsj)aper at Spirit Lake was one of the chief factors in the controversy to determine the appoint- ment of the new postmaster, and the Spirit Lake Democrat was the result. But even wdth the prestige and patronage of the postofiice the load was larger than he could carry and before he realized how he stood he became hopelessly involved and the
448 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
OTitiit fell into ihv liaiids of tlic slici-iil", and was sold at sheriff's sale.
After variinis vicissitudes it eanu' into tlie possession of G. A. Getchell, better known as "Hnekleberrv,'" who for a wdiilc^ eondneted the publication niuh^r the itanie of "Hnckh'ht'rrv's Paper." This was in the sinmut'r of 1887, and he snspen(h^d pnblieation in tlic falL For two or three years now tlicrc wa:^ no second paper. Al)ont 18!M) V. B. ('rane l)oniiht the old (»nt- iit and established the "Spirit Lake Pihit," and cdhi iniu'd the pnblieation of it abont a year, when he moved t > Jackson tak- ing the outfit with him. In December, 1891, Caswell «S: C-lark shipped in a new press and attempted to resnrrect the "Spirit Lake Democrat," Init with indifferent snccess. At the end of fonr months th(>v threw \^]^ tlio sjioniie, and tluM-e was ano^! .t'r interval of some three years of l)nt one imper.
In July, 1804, Messrs. Reycroft c^' Flower shipped in another outfit and commenced the pnl)lication of the "Dickinson County Herald," but finding- themselves handicapped for want of capital, Mr. FloAver soon went out of the concern and his interest came into the hands of William Hay ward in February, 1895. Mr. Hayward took hold of the enterprise with his usual energy, and soon worked up a p^ood circulation, but finding that it interfered too much with his regular business, he sold out to H. Van Steenburg, having ])reviously bought Mr. Reycroft's interest. This Avas July 1, 18i)(). ^Ir. V.an Steenburg, not be- ing ,a newspaper man, engaged the services of J. L. Dunham as editor and condnctcd it as an independent republican j^aper until March, 1898, when he disposed of it to 1^. F. Stowe, who leased it to Mr. Dunham for one year, aft^M' which .an arrange- ment was made by whicdi G. A. Taft came into possession .and control of the paper, and conducted it until the spring of 1901.
Under his conservative management mnch of the earlier bit- terness has been eliminated .and as the p(jpulation, and business
CIVIC SOCIETIES 449
•of the eoTintrv increased the prosperity and influence i>f the Herahl increased Avith it, until it has come to l>e regarded as one of the permanent and substantial institutions of the town and is gradually working its way into popular favor. It changed owners again in the summer of 11)01 and the new proprietors are earnestly laboring to keep it abreast of the best papers of the county.
The civic societies belonging to this period were the Masons, Odd Fellows, Patrons of Husbandry and Good Templars. Twi- light Lodge, ^o. 329, Ancient Order of Free and xVccepted ]\Ia- sons, was tirst organized under a dispensation granted by the Grand Lodge of Iowa on the eighteenth day of September, 1873. The first elective officers were : Alfred Davis, W. M. ; C. H. Ayers, S. W. ; A. L. Sawyer, J. |W. ; A. M. Johnson, Secretary, and Zina Henderson, Treasurer. A charter was granted on the third day of June, 1874. The present membership is sixty. The present elective officers are : O. I. Wilson, <W. M. ; James Ackley, S. W. ; I. I^. Blakey, J. W. ; S. L. Pillsbury, Treasurer, and E. D. Carlton, Secretary. The Past Masters are Alfred Davis, C. H. Ayers, O. Crandall, J. A. Smith, J. F. Dare, RL A. Smith, W. F. Pillsbury, George Stoerlein, W. F. Carleton, E. D. Carleton, A. B. Funk and O. I. Wilson.
In connection with the Masonic lodge, Twilight Chapter Xo. — , Order of the Eastern Star, was organized at Spirit Lake under a dispens,ation granted by the Grand Chapter some time during the winter of 1876 and 1877. The minutes of the chap- ter for the time they worked under dispensation cannot be found and therefore we have to depend on the memory of the earlier members for what facts are obtaiinable. The old files of the Beacon contain an account of ,a public installation held June 24, 1877, which was followed by a festival under the manage- ment of the Eastern Star chapter which fixes the date of tlieir first organization back of that time. ^Irs. Fnnnie Jemersoii
450 DICKINSON COUNTr - IOWA
was; the first 'Wortliy ^latroii and Mrs. Anna L. liice, Associate, with Mrs. Jane Avers, Secretary, and Airs. F. I. Pillsl)nrv, Treasurer. Airs. Jemerson Avas succeeded bv Mrs. Kir'p as Worthy M,atr on either in 1878 or 1870. The charter bears date Fel)ruarv 26, 1880. The first Worthy Matron under the clmr- ter was Mrs. Anna L. Rice with Mrs. D. Eighmy, Associate, and J. A. Smith, Worthy Patmn. ]\Irs. Rice was succeeded by Mrs. E. Palmer in 1882 or 1883.
After a time the interest began to flag. The attendance Avas light until tinally the meetings ceased .altogether. A small company of members, consisting of Mrs. F. I. Pillsbury, Mrs. Minnie Francis, Mrs. Ella Johnson, Mrs. Anna Chisholm, Mrs. M. C. Cory, Mrs. Jennie Ayers and possibly one or two others (this list is made from memory), rather than see the charter surrendered and the cliapter fall tn pieces, kept up tlio" Ovand Chapter dues and the annual reports and did what else was necessary to keep the organization intact and save the charter. Matters drifted ahmc in this unsatisfactory manner until 1804 when the members who had stayed by it decided tli.at it was time to make an effort either to revive the work and place the now nearly defunct organization on its feet once more or to abandon it altogether.
The attem^^t at reorganization was .a marked success. Many accessions to the membership follow^ed and soon the cliapter came to be one of the most popular of the social organizations of the day. The first set of oificers under the new dispensation was as follows : AVorthv Matron, Mrs. L. H. Farnham ; Patron, L. H. Farnham ; Associate Matron, Mrs. J. W. Cory ; Secre- tary, S. L. Pillsbury ; Treasurer, Mrs. S. L. Pillsbury. In 1899 Mrs. Farnham was succeeded by Mrs. Palmer as Matron, who in turn was succeeded by Mrs. H. A. Miller in 1901. The pther officers at the present time are : Associate Matron, Mrs. V. C. Hemenway; Patron, Thomas Burt; Secretary, Miss Ma-
CIVIC SOCIETIES 451
bel Carlton, and Treasurer, Mrs. S. L. Pillsburj. The total membership is about forty-five. Much credit is due the faithful few who stood by the organizatiou in its hour of adversity and contributed so much to its subsequent prosperity.
A chapter of Royal Arch '^lasons was organized at Spirit Lake May 24, 1901, under a dispensation granted May 15, 1901. The Beacon of June seventh gives the new organization the following send-off:
^'Spirit Lake Chapter, Royal Arch Masons, is now in work- ing order under dispensation officered as follows : High Priest, Chas. I. Reigard; King, Dr. Q. C. Fuller; Scribe, T. E. Burt; Treasurer, J. W. Cravens ; Secretary, W. A. Siddall ; Cap- tain of the Host, L. H. Farnham ; Principal Sojourner, W. P. Stone; Royal Arch Captain, A. B. Funk; Master of Third Vail, H. A. Aiiller; Master Second A^ail, P. E. Xarev; Mast?r Second Vail, C. T. Chandler ; Tyler, O. Crandall. The regular night of meeting has notyet been appointed. The next meeting will be this ^Friday) evening. Nine candidates await initia- tion."
Soon after the building of the r.ailroads to Spirit Lake some? members of the Grand Commandery of the Knights Templar conceived the plan of •erectiing somewhere in the lake region a structure that would be regarded bv members of the Order .as a kind of home or headquarters .where they could spend their annual summer vacation and which would serve as a proper place for holding their annual conclave and banquet. In pur- suance of this design a committee was appointed to examine and select suitable grounds for that purpose. After examining several that were offered them, they decided to report in favor of what has since been known as Fort Dodge Point on West Okoboji Lake, but when thiis report was 'presented to the Grand Commandery • it was so strongly opposed by .the officei's and agents of the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Northern Railway, who were mostly members of the order, that they succeeded in defeating it and a second committee was appointed.
Pi
H
CIVIC SOCIETIKS 45
Q
Tliis I'oiiiinittce, after exaininiiiji' the several points offered. fcpiirte<l in favor of the ])laci' that was afterward selected and whitdi is now known ,as "Teniphtr Park."" This eonsisl;- of a wooded ])roniontorv of about twenty acres situated ou the soutl:- west shore of Spirit Lake and l)ut a short distance from the [jurliniiton depot on the isthmus. d"his tract was ])urchased of }1y. a. Kiuiinian bv the people of Spirit Lake and the Burling- ton, Cedar Rapids «Sr Xorthern Railway and don.ated to the com- mander for the purpose heretofore indicated. It w.as conveyed by deeil to Right En^inent Sir James Martin, Grand ( "om- niander ; W. A. McGrue, Very Eminent Deputy Grand ("om- niander ; S. J. Bennett, Eminent Generalissimo, and A. R. Dewey, Eminent Grand ('a])t.ain General, and their successors in office as trustees of the Right Eminent Grand Commanderv Knights Templar of the state of Iowa. The work of improve- ment commenced in the summer of 1885 and has been gradu- ally carried forward to the present time.
Minnie 'Waukon Lodge, Xo. 27-t, Independent Order of Odd Fellows, was organized March 5, 1874. The olficers elected for the first term were as follows : A. A. !Moslier, Xoble Grand ; L. E. Holcomb, Vice-Grand ; William Helms, Treasurer ; X. J. Woodin, Permanent Secretary, and R. D. Owen, Recording Secretarv. This lodge has had a somewhat checkered existence. A portion of the time it has been on the high waves of pros- perity, and at other times the interest has fallen to a low ebb. The present membership is forty-one. The Past Grands are : A. A. Moslier, L. E. Holcomb, J. \. Smith, S. E. Evans, George Hilbert, Orson Rice, C. C. Perrin, D. L. Riley, C. A. Arnold, E. F. Hill, William M. Smith, J. S. Everett and Clarence Hite. The present officers are: X. G., J. E. Russell; V. G., W. F. Beerman ; Secretarv, J. fW. Chestnut ; Treasurer, A. Hurd ; Conductor, Chas. Linder, and Warden, O. Bjornsen. The Re- bekah degree was organized September 5, 18T<i. At the present
454 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
time the lodge is in first-class condition and prospering finely.
The Patrons of Husbandry were but are not. When first organized they manifested a great degree of zeal and enthusi- asm. But it soon died out and the organization itself Avent a glimmering years ago. The Spirit Lake Grange, Patrons of Hus- bandry, was organized March 17, 1874, with officers as follows: W. B. Brown, Master; S. E. Evans, Overseer; C. E. Abbott, Lecturer; Isaac Ames, Steward; II. C. Owen, Assistant Stew- ard ; William Helms, Chaplain ; George Ililbert, Secretary ; James Cousin-s, Treasurer, and James Evans, Gatekeeper. Mrs. James Helms, Ceres ; Mrs. W. B. Brown, Flora ; Mrs. William Helms, Pomona, and Mrs. Thomas Pegdon, Lad}^ Assistant Steward. The average membership was about sixty. The or- ganization was maintained with a great deal of enthusiasm for about five years when the interest began to flag and by 1886 the organization was numbered with the things that were but are not.
A lodge of Good Templars w.as another of the early day insti- tutions of Spirit Lake. Statistics are not at hand for much of an outline of it. Among its more prominent promoters were G. S. Needham, A. W. Osborne, J. L. Coppoc, C. H. Ayers and others of the principal citizens of the town. In 1876 J. A.Smith of the Beacon wrote of it as follows:
"A lodge of Good Templars has been in existence at Spirit Lake for several years past with intermittent success, sometimes flourishing and then gradually losing ground. At present the tide of its fortune is at such a low ebb that it can scarce! v be reckoned among the living institutions of the county."
These four comprise the civic societies of the pioneer days. Those of later date are the Grand Army of the Republic, the Kniffhts of Pvthias, Ancient Order of United Workmen, the Modern Woodmen of America and the American Yeoman.
CIVIC SOCIETIES 455
IWinget Post, 'No. 226 of the Grand Army of the Republir-, was organized under a charter bearing date j^oveniber 24, 1883. The first list of officers was as follows : Commander, C. C. Perrin; Senior Vice-Commander, D. L. Riley; Junior Vice- Commander, E. L. Bro^vnell ; Chaplain, II. fWood ; Quarter- master, Isaac Tucker ; Officer of the Guard, S. B. Miller ; Quar- termaster Sergeant, Peter Flemming; Surgeon, E. L. Brow- nell; Adjutant, J. O. Stewart. Subsequent commanders have been : D. L. Riley, E. V. D.avis, George Baxter, S. B. Miller, J. W. Klein, Peter Flemming, 11. H. Campbell and E. L. Brow- nell. The present officers are : Commander, E. V. Davis ; Senior Vice-Commander, H. H. Campbell; Junior Vice-Commander, i^Tewton Farmer ; Post Surgeon,' A. Kingman ; Chaplain, J. W. Klein, and Quartermaster, H. H. Green. The membership is now about twenty. As the old veterans are mustered out there are none to fill their places.
Summit Lodge, iSTo. 86, Knights of Pythias, was organized at Spirit Lake October 18, 1882, and received its charter the twenty-sixth of the same month. There were sixteen charter members. The first officers were: G. P. Hopkins, P. C. ; W. A. Siddall, C. C. ; W. B. Brown, V.-C. ; D. L. Riley, Prelate; E. F. N"ewell, K. of R. and S. ; F. E. Hopkins, M. of A.'; C. S. Fletcher, M . of E. ; iWilliam Hayward, M. of F. ; S. P. Fisher, L G.; J. F. Olmstead, O. G. The C. C.'s (Chancellor, Com- manders) since that time have been D. L. Riley, E. L. Brow- nell, E. F. Merrill, E. C. Rienken, J. G. Waite, E. G. Blackert, C. F. Clark, M. (W. Reason, G. P. Hopkins, Jos. A. Smith, C. C. Perrin, J. A. Swailes, HI VanSteenburg, H. F. Requart, V. A. Arnold, S. A. Peters, H. H. Buck, H. E. White, J. E. Mitchell, L. A. Hemenway, R. S. Gruhlke and W. B. Slattery. The present membership is about thirty-two. It was .at one time much larger, but many have moved away and their places have not been filled. The present officers are : W. B. Slattery,
450 DICKINSON COUNTY - lOAVA
C. C; M. G. McCliiitoek, V.-C. ; L. A. Heuiuuway, K. of R. and S. ; V. A. Arnold, Prelate.
The Ancient Order of United Workmen oriianized a lodae in Spirit Lake Angnst 1, 1893, when the following otheers were elected and installed: P. M. W., C. B. Fountain : M. W., George S. Tnttle ; Foreman, R. F. Grnhlke ; Overseer, James P. ]\liller; Recorder, (\ AV. Price; Financier, iWill)nr Evarts ; Receiver, S. B. Miller; Gnide, B. W. Blanchard ; J. W., O. Sterner; O. W., A. Hartley; Trnstees, A Hartley, T. H. Price and E. Kephart ; Medical Examiners, Doctors Fountain and Brownell. The lodge is kno'\\m as Spirit Lake Lodge, M). 254. The ^Master Workmen since that time liave been Georue S. Tnttle, R. F. Grnhlke, George F. Arp, A. E. Arp, A. M. Owen, A. F. Merrill, J. P. ^[iller and C. HI Price. The present officers are : R. F. Grnhlke, P. M. W. ; T. Price, M. W. ; John Hafer, Treasurer ; B. L. Francis, Overseer ; A. F. Mer- rill, Financier; A. E. Arp, Recorder; W. A. Price, Receiver; C. A. Lynn, Guide; W. Taylor, J. W\ ; Walter Peck, O. W.
Spinit Lake Camp, I*^o 4470, Modern Woodmen of America, was organized at Spirit Lake January 21, 18!)7. at which time the lirst set of officers were elected and installed by State I)e]uity Adelshein acting as installing officer. The folloAving is a Ii.-.t of officers : Venerable Counsel, Charles I. Reigard ; Worthy Advisor, A. H. Gray; Banker, H. E. St. (dair; Local (lerk, A. H. Jemerson ; Escort, D. C. Wells ; Physician, J. B. Stair ; Watchman, R. S. Miller; Sentry, E. Kephart; Managers, D. X. Guthrie, W. F. Beerman and H. H. Buck. Venerable T'oun- suls since that time have been: 1898, I). C. Wells; 1899, C. L. Knowles; 1900, C. Linder; 1901, A. D. Gray. The present officers are : Vice-Counsel, A. D. Grav ; Worthv Advisor, C. L. Knowles ; Banker, L. D. Goodrich ; I>ocal Clerk, W. F. Dex- heimer; Escort, Charles Linder; Physician, A. E. Rector; Watchman, J. E. Raymond ; Sentry, J. ]\r. Hardman. The
OTHER SOCIETIES 457
present membership is one hundred and sixteen. The organi- zation has prospered from the start and much interest and en- thusiasm has been manifested.
Spirit Lake Homestead, Brotherhood of American Yeomen, No. 273, was organized October 18, 1899, with the following officers duly elected and installed : W. T. Davidson, Foreman ; A. F. Merrill, Correspondent ; H. E, St. Clair, Overseer ; Henry- Arthur, Master of Ceremonies ; James Crowell, Watchman ; Frank Ellston, Guard ; Hattie Farnliam, Rebecca ; Mrs. Clara Jones, Eowena; and C. P. Soper, Physician. At the time of founding the Homestead was composed of sixty-two members, and is now in a flourishing condition. The position of Fore- man has been held by W. T. Davidson, Charles I. Reigard, H. E. St. Clair and C. H. Wylder, in the order named. Of course this order being new not much has occurred in its history worthy of special mention. Like all other fraternal insurance com- panies its success will depend on the tenacity with which the individual members cling to the organization.
CHAPTER XXXVIL
THE EARLY CHURCHES M. E. PASTORS BAPTISTS
FIRST CHURCH BUILDING IN THE* COUNTY REV.
J. L. COPPOC SUBSEQUENT PASTORS CONGRE-
GATIONALISTS REV, J. R. UPTON PRESBY- TERIANS^ THEIR PASTORS AND CHURCH EPIS- COPALIANS LUTHERANS THE CATHOLICS THE
EVERGREEN SABBATH SCHOOL SPIRIT LAKE MUS- ICAL ASSOCIATION THE PIONEER CORNET BAND
THE PIONEER GIRLS' CLUB THE SPIRIT LAKE
CHAUTAUQUA.
ANY of the more prominent institutions of the town date ^from the early seventies. The schools, churches and divic societies all had their origin about that time. The organization and early work of the Methodists has been noticed at some length, and the names of the pastors given up to 1876. That year during the ministry of Rev. J. E. Cohenour they erected their first church building. This w,as the second church building in the county. Previous to that time they had held their services in the courthouse. The church was dedi- cated September 1, 1878, Rev. I. N. Pardee officiating. The different Methodist preachers located here from that time to the present are: P. H. Eighmy, jW. H. Drake, Bennett Mitchell, E. J. McCaffree, G. W. L. Brown, W. T. Cole, H. B. Green, Joel A. Smith, t. Saunderson, F. E. Day, W. D. Phifer, W- T. MacDonald, W. M. Todd and E. E. Lymer.
In 1892 the church building w,as thoroughly renovated and a spacious addition erected. This church has ever been aggressive and strong and has from the first enjoyed a good degree of growth and prosperity. Wide awake Sabbath schools have been
THE CHURCHES
459
M. E. CHURCH — SPIRIT LAKE.
maintained from the start, .and all of tlie up-to-date accessories for effectual church work are liberally and enthusiastically supported. . .
The Baptists first organized a church in this county in tlic winter of 1872 and 1873 under the ministry of Rev. AV. A. Dorward, and l)uilt a suhstanti.al church building in the summer of 1874, which by the way, was the first church building erected in the countv. This church was dedicated Julv 26, 1874. Kev. officiating. . Mr. Dorward was succeeded in his min- istry by Rev. J. L. Coppoc, who remained here several ycar:-\ It may be interesting to some to know that Mr. Coppoc hi'd two brothers who were with John Brown's men in the historic raid on Harper's Ferry. One of the brothers was captured, tried for treason and executed for his share in that wild scheme, while the younger (Barclay) escaped and made his way back to Iowa and afterward to Canada.
460 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Mr. Coppoc was succeeded in 1881 by Rev. W. H. Whitehsw, who remained one year, and was in tnrn succeeded by Rev. B. H. Brastead, who remained in charge of the work nntil 1887 or 1888, when he was succeeded by Rlev. iW. H, Dorward, a son of W. A. Dorward, who or^ganized the church nearly fifteen years before. Rev. Charles Andrews suc- ceeded Dorward and remained two years, when he was succeeded by Rev. — Broadbridge, who stayed one year. For thre€ or four years now the church building was occu- pied by "The Church of God," which was originally an off- shoot of the German Lutherans. Their first pastor w.as Rev. Guenter, who was succeeded by Rev. J. W. Ault. In 1900 ths Baptists again occupied their church, Riev. William Megan offi- ciating. In February, 1901, he was succeeded by Rev. J. G. Eaton. During the summer of 1901 repairs and improvem«nts were made to the amount of $1,500. A prosperous Sabbath school has been maintained much of the time and the church has enjoyed a good degree of prosperity.
The early work of Rev. J. R. Upton for the Congregational Church has been noticed at some length. He remained in the work here and at Lakeville something over twelve years. The Congregationalists never had a church building at Spirit Lake, but most of the time held their services at the courthouse. After Mr. Upton left, which was about 1883 or 1884, most of the mem- bers of his church went to the Presbyterians, and the Congre- gational organization w.as discontinued.
The Presbyterian Church is of later date than those hereto- fore mentioned, their first organization having been effected December 14, 1881, through the efforts of Rev. A. K. Baird, Superintendent of Home Missions for Iowa. The first board of trustees was 'W. H. Bailey, Thomas Cousins and D. R. Chis- holm ; first elder, Moses Thompson. The first pastor, G. jS^. Luccok served during the balance of 1881 and 1882. After
THE CHURCHES
461
PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH — SPIRIT LAKE.
him were Rev. J. R. Rosser, 1883 ; Rev. J. H. Carpenter, 1884 to 1888; Rev. A. M. West, 1888 to 1890; Rev. C. E. Fueemau, 1801 to 1895 ; Rev. H. J. Frothingham, 1805 to 1890 ; Rev. W. H. P. McDonald, February to N'ovember, 1900. Rev. Bert A. Ravson began labor January G, 1001, and is the first installed pastor of the church, all others having been stated supplies. For the first five years the services were for the most •part held in Beacon Hall. During the winter of 1885 and 1886 the pre- liminary steps were taken for the erection of a church build- ing. Work on the foundation was commenced in the spring, and on the twenty-sixth of July the cornerstone was laid with simple and appropriate ceremonies. Work above the founda- tion commenced September second. The building, though not wholly completed was first occupied for the morning service December 12, 1886. It was dedicated July 24, 1887, Rev. D. W. Fahs, of Des Moines, delivered the dedicatory sermon. Rev. T. S. Bailey, State Superintendent of Missions, followed with a presentation of the financial condition and needs of the church.
462 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
December 8, 1886, a society was organized under the name of the ''Guild of the Good Shepherd." The charter members were Mrs. D. F. Van Steenburg, Mrs. LeRoy Davis, Mrs. W. .iW. Stowe, Mrs. J. W. Cory, Mrs. Henry Thompson, Mrs. '.Wil- liam Vreeland and Mrs. G. P. Hoi)kin§. , The first rector was Rev. — Walker. Previous to the building of the chapel, ser- vices were held in the old Beacon Hall or the Baptist Church, and later in an .abandoned store. The contract for building a chapel was let in July, 18U4, to LeRoy Davis. On August T, 1894, the cornerstone was laid with approj^riate ceremonies by the Venerable Irving McElroy, of iWaverly, acting as the rep- resentative of Bishop Perry, who was in Europe at the time. The total cost of the building ,and lot was about $2,850. The building committee were John ( 'ravens, W. 'W. Stowe, William Hayward and A. (W. Osborn. The chapel was completed and opened for divine service entirely free from debt October 28, 1894, Rev. T. F. Bowen officiating. June 80, 1895, the chaiK'l was consecrated. Bishop Perry presiding.
Among the early settlers were a number of German Luther- ans, who .as early as 1809 and 1870 located to the northwest vf the town ^of Spirit Lake, in Spirit Lake and Diamond Lake townships, and true to their ancient traditions they brought their strenuous and positive ideas of Christianity with them, and among their first acts they made ])rov'ision for maintain- ing religious worship in their own language and according to the tenets of their own faith. Prominent among these early workers were P. Bergman, C. Britch, C. Horn, Peter Vick, Henry Bibow, and a few others. The first meeting was held at the cabin of P. Bergman in 1871, the services being condueteil by Rev. T. Mertens, a pioneer preacher who was sent out to visit the frontier settlements to hunt out his native country- men and minister to their spiritual necessities, and provide for the maintenance of religious worshi]) among them according
THE CHURCHES 463
to 'their established beliefs. This practice of holding services at the homes of the settlers at stated periods w.as kept up for sev- eral, years. (Mr. Mertens was succeeded by Kev. E. H. Scheitz, of Algona. After the building of the Swailes Schoolhouse the meetings were principally held there. In 1878 Rev. C. W. Waas was stationed here and placed in charge of the work. He at once set himself at work to secure .a permanent place of worship of their own, and in 1879 they built in Spirit Lake their first church building, which was a plain and unpretentious structure, and was planned to serve the threefold purpose of church, parsonage and schoolroom. It is a well known char- acteristic of the Lutherans that they believe religious instruc- tion should be an essential part of every child's early training, and therefore they made provision .accordingly. It was not in- tended that the instruction given should be in lieu of the public schools, but in addition thereto that each child might have the training deemed necessary as a proper preparation for confir- mation and church membership, and it was in this sense that the school w.as established. Mr. IWaas continued in the work until 1881. Following him were E. |W. Mensing, 1881 to 1883, and John Becker, 1883 to 1881. In 1881 a change was made aiid the charge enlarged to embrace Spirit Lake, Esther- ville and Jackson, and was placed in charge of Rev. A. Gop- pelt, who divided his time among the three places and remained on the work for over ten years. Through his eiforts a new and commodious church building was erected in 1895, and other improvements made. He was succeeded by A. Enselert, who remained until 1900. This society has never been numerically strong, but their members have ever been loyal to their church and zealous in its support.
: While the Catholic element has never been ,as numerous in this town as in some others, they have from the first been liberal and loyal supporters of their church. Unlike most towns in
464 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
northwestern Iowa, the early Catholics were not of Irish ex- traction but French and Canadian. They were reinforced later on by some Irish. In 1873 the Rev. J. J. Smith, of Em- metsburg, held the first Catholic services in the county at the house of Oliver Sarazine. He continued, to hold services here twice a year at least and sometimes oftener until 1881 when Kev. M. K. Norton was stationed here as resident priest and held services here once in three weeks.
In the spring of 1882 Father Norton and Oliver Sarazine collected money to build a Catholic church. The amount col- lected was $1,500 and the church was erected the following fall. Father Norton was the only resident priest that ever lived in Spirit Lake and he remained here until 1887 when he was succeeded by Rev. L. Carroll, of Spencer. His successors were Rev. P. Macaully, Rev. P. A. R. Tierney and Rev. L. Kirby, in the order named, all of whom resided in Spencer and gave every third Sunday to Spirit Lake. This arrangement lasted until 1898, when the church here was placed in charge of Rev. M. R. Daley, of Estherville. He died on November 10, 1900, and was succeeded by his brother. Rev. J. R. Daley, who is pastor at the present time. The church is a frame building and is located in the north part of town on a' site donated by B. B. Van Steenburg, who though an Episcopalian himself, was ready to assist all worthy enterprises. There are about fifteen families in the parish and the church is free from debt.
One of the early day institutions of the town of Spirit Lake which is still remembered with much pleasure by those who participated in it is the Evergreen Sabbath School. While tlie several churches were conducted along denominational lines even in the early days, the Evergreen Sabbath School was a cosmopolitan affair and strictly nonsectarian. All met on a com- mon platform and labored for a common object. G. S. Need-
EVERGREEN SABBATH SCHOOL 465
ham was the first superintendent and he was assisted bj an able and enthusiastic corps of teachers and subordinates. Subse- quent to Mr. JSTeedham's time, the superintendents were A. M. Johnson, C. H. Ayers and J. A. Doughty, in the order named. For several years there was no other Sabbath school in town. Its name and fame spread to adjacent neighborhoods. Stran- gers staying in town over Sunday visited the Evergreen Sabbath School. So common was the practice that at one time a visitors' class was organized and Rev. J. L. Coppoc, pastor of the Baptist Church, was selected to conduct it. The school was highly suc- cessful from the start and continued in existence several years until, as the churches multiplied and grew stronger, each one conceived it to be an imperative duty to organize .and maintain a Sabbath school of their own, and this interesting and highly suc- cessful effort of the early times was allowed to die out to make room for several denominational schools that grew up in its stead.
Another of the institutions of this same period was the Spirit Lake Musical Association. During the winter of 1875 and 1876 the Leslie Concert Troupe made a tour of the towns of northwestern Iowa organizing musical associations and giv- ing concerts. The struck Spirit Lake December eighth. The Beacon of the ninth has the following notice:
"musical.
"The Leslie Musical Troupe which has visited several towns in northwestern Iowa lately will give a concert .at the Baptist Church tomorrow night. It is their intention to organize a Musical Association and from the interest usually evinced in matters of this kind by our people we think a large class will be raised. There can be no question as to their ability, as they have given satisfaction wherever they have been."
The company gave their closing concert Tuesday evening, December twenty-first. The Musical Association was organized the evening before, of which the Beacon gives the folloA^dng account :
4fi6 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
"musical association.
"An organization was formed last Monday night in town under the above name with the following officers : President, S. L. Pillsbury ; Vice-President, C. H. Ayers; Secretary,' J. A. Ellis ; Treasurer, Miss Dena Barkman. About forty names were attached to the articles of organization and a lively in- terest seems to be taken in the matter. The object of the association is to keep up a musical interest in the community and to furnish an opportunity for advancement in the ar6 by continued practice and mutual instruction. Meetings will be appointed once a week and strict rules will be adopted to insure the attendance of the members."
Well, the class was organized and the next issue of the paper has the following:
"Spirit Lake is chuck full of music this week. Everybody reads music, talks music, sings music, in season and out of season. In fact, there's music in the air and it permeates evej'v nook and corner of our little city. Young men and maidens court the muse, hoping to increase their accomplish- ments. Middle-aged persons whose early education in this direction was neglected are now trying to make up for lost time, and old men whose entire musical collection for year^ past has consisted of a medlev composed of "Old Hundred," "Yankee Doodle," "Ortonville" and "Erin Go Bragh," are put- ting in their best licks learning to sing the new f angled tunes. The town is full of sharps and flats, some produced by art, jjnt more the work of nature. Selah."
The above extract gives something of an idea of the enthusi- asm worked up. It is not at all overdrawn.
The foregoing incidents may seem decidedly commonplace, and indeed they would l)e hardly worth the telling were it not for the fact that they mark the first awakening of the spirit of improvement and musical development which has in more recent times been so marked a characteristic of our people. It is an acknowledged fact that the Spirit Lake Chautauqua annu- ally puts before the public one of the choicest, if not the choicest, program, literary and musical, of any organization
PIONEER I GOENET BAND f I 467
of its kind in the West. ISTow, if the demand did not exist they could not do it. Where did this demand originate ? It didn't come by chance. It had to be created, cultivated and fostered. What connection there may be between the early efforts and the development of the later days, we don't know, but the fact remains true all the same that there is no other town in lov/a in proportion to its population that annually invests anywhere near as much in musical entertainments as Spirit Lake.
The Spirit Lake Cornet Band is of later date. The follow- ing from the Beacon of jSTovember 1,7, 1878, gives the details, however, of its organization:
"There is a series of commonplace events that occur uniform- ly and mark ei30chs in the history of a town. The first church, the first lodge, the first. sidewalk, the first railroad, all these things come and form in their turn starting points in the ordinary system of chronological mnemonics that serve to guide us in remembering our daily transactions. Coming in the regular order with the numerous improvements that mark the progress of our town, sounding brass and tinkling cymbal unite in harmonious effort to proclaim our metropolitan yearnings, and Spirit Lake can now boast of a full fledged cornet band. A full set of instruments in the latest style( and with all the modern improvements arrived here last Friday. The previous- ly organized band was waiting to receive them, and after the trial they were distributed as follows: W. F. Pillsbury, E flat cornet; S. P. Middleton, E flat cornet; T. J. Francis, B flat cornet; A. W. Middleton, B flat cornet; Carl Blackert, tenor; T. L. Twiford, alto ; J. A. Ellis, alto; S. L. Pillsbury, baritone ; J. A. Smith, E flat bass ; C. W. Bowne, snare druni ; J. S. Johnston, bass drum. The instruments are from the well known house of Lyon & Healy of Chicago, and give perfect satisfaction. After a few weeks practice the boys will be ready to discourse sweet music. For the present, however, they have retired to hidden recesses and practice their lessons under [h^ rose."
The accompanying illustration is copied from an old photo- graph in possession of Mrs. J. L. Davis. The names of the
468
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
BANK
PIONEER CORNET BAND.
parties are as given in the list, with the addition that the figure at the left of the line was not a member of the band at all, but "Grandpap Clark," as the boys called him, a veteran and pen- sioner of the war of 1812, who was passionately fond of music and inca-dinately proud (tf the new band. Whenever the boys met for practice, no matter what the weather was, "Grandpap" was always on hand, and as the l)oys lined up he would take his position beside the leader and following them through all the changes would keep time with the music oblivious to all external surroundings.
Since that time there have been bands and bands. Indeed, Spirit Lake has seldom been without a band. Some of them have undoubtedly excelled the original in artistic rendition and musical culture, but for honest, earnest, conscientious en- deavor, the pioneer band was without peer or rival.
Among the many social organizations which have first and last been brought into existence by surrounding conditions,
PIONEER girls' CLUB 469
there are none that, for the time being, afforded more geiiuiuo satisfaction to those connected with it than the "Pioneer Girls' Clnb." The plan and scope of the organization is unique and decidedly original. So far as known there is nothing like it anywhere else. As may be readily understood, there has al- ways existed a sympathy, or a kind of freemasonry, among the children of the families of the pioneer settlers, and as thoy grew to manhood and womanhood, it afforded them no small degree of satisfaction to get together and compare notes, or as the newspaper men would put it, ''swap lies," concerning the many and varied vicissitudes which at different times came into the experience of the early pioneers.
The impressions of childhood are the ones that stay by Uo through life the most persistently, and as the years go by and the episodes of middle life become indistinct and partially for- gotten, the impressions of childhood become more clearly de- fined than ever, and it is only natural that those who spent their early days in the environments of pioneer life should in after years find delight and satisfaction in calling up and re lating the reminiscences and experiences of that interesting period. It was out of such a condition of affairs that the idea of forming an association for the purpose of keeping in remem- brance the reminiscences of the pioneer days was first evolved, and the "Pioneer Girls' Club" was the result. It would be difficult just now to say when or how the idea first originated. It was always a source of satisfaction for those who had spent the greater part of their early days on the frontier to meet and talk over their early experiences and recollections.
It so happened that along from 1890 to 1895 there weie proportionately an exceptionally large number of ladies resid- ing in Spirit Lake who could honestly lay claim to the appella- tion of "Pioneer Girls," and in some of their impromptu gath- erings it was suggested that they form a "Pioneer Girls" cliil).
470 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
The idea became popular at once. So far as can now be ascer- tained, the suggestion was first made by Mrs. Ella Arnold Stevens, and was at once enthusiastically seconded by sev- eral, prominent among whom were Mrs. L. H. Farnham, Mrs. E. L. Brownell, Mrs. A. B. Funk, -Mrs. E. G. Blackert, Mrs. H. A. Millefr, Mrs. J. S. Everett .and many others. An organization was soon effected with Mrs. Stevens as president.
It was about 1892 when the organization began to take form and shape. The membership grew in numbers and the meet- ings in interest. The idea of an annual banquet was proposed and soon became decidedly popular. The largest and most im- portant of these annual gatherings was held at the Crandail House, February 12, 1894. Invitations were sent to all ')i the old settlers who could be reached, and special pains were taken to invite all who were children here in the pioneer days. There was a liberal response to these invitations and at the appointed hour a brilliant and enthusiastic company had assembled.
The Beacon, in writing of the affair at the time, gives it the following send-off:
* -^ * "All of the arrangements were in excellent taste. The rooms were somewhat crowded, but that was no fault of the managers, unless the girls were to blame for having so many friends. Tlie guests embraced about one hundred and twenty-five and each and all were made to feel very much at home."
After a few preliminaries the address of welcome was given by Mrs. Ella Arnold Stevens, president of the association. The address is too long to be reproduced here, but one or two extracts will not be out of place.
"Ladies and Gentlemen: I bid you welcome in the name of our circle, hoping that you may in a measure feel repaid for coming. We have taken so much pleasure in preparing for this banquet, that we have perhaps over-estimated its merits, and Ave
PIONEER girls' CLUB 471
ask of you a kindly criticism, for it has grown in magnitude on our hands. We first thought to entertain our husbands and immediate families, but we have very much enjoyed extend- ing our invitations until we have the present company. You ma}^ not all know what the Spirit Lake Pioneer Girls' Club means. Possibly some of the older settlers will remember a good many years ago (out of a delicate consideration for some of the members of our circle, I don't like to use figiires) that the young people of this town had a particularly gay time. The young ladies were brilliant and attractive and the young men handsome and gallant. * * *
"Of these larks I will let the girls with longer memories speak. Since that time we have been scattered in many direc- tions, some of us at times being separated by half a continent. This winter kind fate has brought many of us together again. In an inspired moment some one conceived the idea of form- ing a circle for the renewing of old times and the warming ap of old friendships. As we were to meet once a week, on Thurs- day afternoons, we thought in justice to ourselves (and our neighbors) that we ought not to spend all our time in gossiping. With the double object in view of mental culture and social advantage, we organized a circle called the Spirit Lake Pioneer Girls' Club. At each meeting we very much enjoyed a little literary program, and out of these meetings and an ever present 'desire to do something for mankind, has grown this banquet."
The foregoing extracts convey a fair idea of the entire id- dress which was well received and enthusiastically applauded. The intervals between the various exercises were occupied with a musical program which was much enjoyed by the lovers of music. After the banquet came toasts and responses, Mrs. Stevens acting as toastmaster. The responses were unique and decidedly interesting, the most noted perhaps were those of Mrs. Farnham, Mrs. Miller and Mrs. Brownell. The others, though not quite ,as lengthy were equally bright, apt and original. There were some twelve or fifteen in all and it would be difficult to say which were the most deserving of notice. It is to be re- gretted that none of them were preserved. The Beacon in writing of this part of the program had this to say :
472 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
"The matter was exceedingly bright, ingenious and entertain- ing, and the delivery actually captivating. All of the speakers brought flowers of sentiment to this feast of soul which deeply stirred the company and particularly those who were part of the experiences of the earlier years."
These annual banquets were kept up for some years and were occasions of much genuine enjoyment, but of late the interest has been allowed to flag. Some have moved away, others have passed over the silent river, and it is more than probable that in ftie not distant future the Spirit Lake Pioneer Girls' Club will be but a pleasant memory of other days. Per- haps more space has been given to the foregoing incidents than their importance as historical events would seem to warrant ; but the time is not far distant when all will exceedingly regret that more of the social life of the pioneer days has not been preserved and given a place in our local history.
The Spirit Lake Chautauqua is worthy of a place in this history. Early in 1892 enterprising spirits installed the Spirit Lake Park Association. An auditorium was erected on the East Okoboji shore between town and the shore of Spirit Lake. A musical festival occupied eight days with a program of un- usual merit. Happening to drop off the train for ,a night dur- ing this period and attending an evening session, E. C. Whalen, superintendent of the Chautauqua at Lake Madison, South Dakota, became impressed with the idea that here was a grand center for a great Chautauqua movement. He broached the matter to F. W. Barron, president of the Park Association, in whose fertile mind the idea took firm root. He talked the en- terprise over and found friends for it. Mr. Barron and A. T). Funk made a trip to Madison to find what a Chautauqua meant to a community that had tried it, and the idea was found to be very popular there. T;hen Spirit Lake took hold and gave the movement a lift. The Park Association was merged into tlie Spirit Lake Chautauqua Association. Mr. Barron was ?on-
SPIRIT LAKE CHAUTAUQUA 473
tinued as president and E. C. Whalen was made secretary and superintendent.
Shares of stock were offered at $100 each. Possession en- titled the holder and family to free access to all Chautanqna privileges, and a leasehold interest in a lot in the Chautauqua plat. The first assembly was held in July, 1893. The World's Fair, the impending financial panic and a serious drouth all made inroads upon the attendance, but in spite of all, receipts were large and stockholders and others within a range of twenty or thirty counties in northern Iowa and southern Minnesota were delighted with the excellence of platform performance and other privileges. Each succeeding .assembly has served tc fortify the Chautauqua in public esteem and confidence. Large expenditures of money and of timd are required^' to sustain a movement of this character. This one has had no money- making feature — that is to say, it included no opportunity for private gain. All receipts are dedicated to the support of the assemblies and the property necessary to its exisitence. In the earlier days a heavy debt was incurred. This was due to plans impractically elaborate, .and to the endeavor to sup- port a high-salaried superintendent. There were three plat form meetings a day where two better served the popular need and comfort. Too much ground was bought and money was wasted in expensive platting. But for a determined stand on the part of men of Spirit Lake willing to make a sacrifice rather than have the Chautauqua go into disgraceful bank- ruptcy, the end would have come right soon. The business men of the county responded liberally to the needs of the case. Thousands of dollars subscribed under good management so reduced the debt as to give the enterprise a chance for its life. The program was not dwarfed, but all expenses were reduced to the minimum. iWhile still somewhat involved, the Chau- tauqua is growing steadily in popular favor and in financial
474 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
standing, and may be regarded as a fixture. Its influence for good and its highly enjoyable privileges are worthy of the en- couragement of all people of intelligence and character.
The uniform excellence and high grade of the entertain- ments afforded by the Spirit Lake Chautauqua have always excited much favorable comment .among the lecturers and prominent visitors familiar with the Chautauqua work in other localities. This was particularly true of the earlier meet- ings. Those who were present at the first two sessions doubt- less recall how emphatically this point was dwelt upon by the first speakers. It seemed a surprise almost amounting to a revelation to them that in a new country so recently and sparsely settled, and that, too, by people of limited means, that a demand should have sprung up or could have been created or maintained that would justify the expense .and labor neces- sary to carry such an enterprise to a successful completion.
Many of them expressed both surprise and delight that they should find here, on what was so recently the northwestern frontier, a community in its transition state just emerging from the first or pioneer stage of its existence with the faith ,and courage requisite to the establishment and successful maintenance of an organization of this magnitude, devoted ex- clusively to literary development. One of the curious and characteristic features of the movement was its spontaneity, or, well, call it what you please. Such a movement was no part of any one's plans or schemes. But few had ever heard of the Chautauqua movement, and they had given it but little thought or study. Mr. iWhalen's visit here was purely acci- dental. In short, the whole movement was originally but the spontaneous and unpremeditated expression of the public feeling then existing. Looking back at the affair through the light of more recent conditions the only wonder is that the
SPIRIT LAKE CHAUTAUQUA 475
extravagance and inexperience of the earlier days didn't bury the enterprise past all resurrection.
The first program presented an aggregation of talent such as is seldom seen on any platform. Rev. Frank Gunsaulus, Rev. Joseph Cook, Rev. T. DeWitt Talmage, Rev. Russell Con- well, Hon. Henry Watterson, Frank Bristol, and many others of national reputation occupied the platform of the Spirit Lake Chautauqua during that memorable first two weeks of its existence, while the musical and miscellaneous features of the program were correspondingly elaborate and expensive. It may seem remarkable that so much more space has been given to Spirit Lake than can be given to the other towns of the county, but it must be remembered that Spirit Lake is emphatically the pioneer town of the county. In fact, more pioneer history clusters about Spirit Lake than any other town west of Fort Dodge and north of Sioux City.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
MILFOKD;, ITS LOCATION^ THE - FIRST SETTLE-
MENT OF MILFORD AND OKOBOJI TOWNSHIPS
THE OLD TOWN THE FIRST HOTELS AND STORES
EARLY ENTERTAINMENTS THE MILFORD LI- BRARY ASSOCIATION AMATEUR THEATRICALS
THE MILFORD DANCING SCHOOL THE EARLY
CHURCHES THE WORK OF REV. J. R. UPTON
THE BUILDING OF THE RAILROAD FORCES THE
MOVING OF THE TOWN NORTH MILFORD
BUILDING UP THE NEW TOWN OLD BUILDINGS
MOVED UP AND NEW ONES ERECTED.
HE town of Milford is the metropolis of the south part of the county and is h3cated on the range line between Milford ,and Okoboji townships, that being the center of the principal street. As has been before stated the im- mediate cause of building up a town at that time and place was the building of the Milford lluuring mill in the summer of 1869. This event has been noticed at some length in the his- tory of the county at large. Coincident with the building of the mill was the settlement of the two townships. The first settler in Milford township was A. D. Inman, who came in 1866. Two or three other claims were taken either that year or the next, but were soon after abandoned. There liad been but three or four claims taken in the township when the mill company made their selection which was on two abandoned claims. During the summer of 1860 nearly all of the vacant land in the township was homesteaded. Prominent among the settlers for that year were Andrew Blackman, R. C. McCutchin, Z. Slayton, John Allar, C. Christensen, Homer Wise, S. E.
MILFORD 477
Inman, Hiram Ogg, G. P. Clark, H. H. Shipman, C. Tinkham, Eli Miller, E. Freeman, the Reeves brothers, and some others, a few of whom survived the grasshopper invasion, and in some instances the children of the old settlers still occupy the old homesteads of thirty-three years ago.
Okoboji township is older, the first settlers having come as early as 1859. The names of the principal ones up ro 1867 have already been given ; shortly after that they were reinforced by C. A. Arnold, Levi Knowlton, J. B. Florer, D. T. Jaynes, William Patten, John Matthesen, Halvor Knutesen, Sam Waller, Tom Barcus, Homer Calkins, Edmond Miller, L. F. Griswold and a few others.
The building .and successful operation of the Milford mill has already been noticed and the building up of a small town in the immediate vicinity was the natural consequence. The mill company secured a half section of land where their im- provements were located upon which, after completing their title, they laid out their plat of the town of Milford in the sum- mer of 1870. Of course, the first improvements were by the mill company themselves and were made during the summer of 1869. As has been before stated, the saw mill was started in July, the grist mill in December of that year. During the summer of 1870 several substantial buildings were erected, the most important of which were the two hotels, one by A. D. In- man, and the other by Case & Arnold, and the residence of T. S. Seymour. Inman's Hotel was so near completion that it was dedicated by a grand ball and dance on the fourth of July.
The hotel which w.as being erected by Case & Arnold, and known as the Case House, was a three story affair, the upper -story of which was intended for a public hall. The buildings were mostly of native lumber and what pine lumber was used in their construction was hauled from Algona, that being at.
478 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the time the most convenient railroad town. Both buildings were well toward completion by fall and were opened to the public as soon as possible. Their patronage came largely from persons coming to mill, as some half a dozen counties at that time depended on the Milford mill for "their breadstuffs. The hotel proprietors soon found out that while there might be good business for one there was not enough for two. The Case House w.as kept by Austin Case but he soon became convinced that there was no money in it for him as a hotel, and he got out of it in the best shape he could.
Among the early incidents connected with the history of Milford many will remember the Milford dancing school. This was during the winter of 1870 and 1871 and was without doubt the first dancing school in all northwestern Iowa. Whether the steps practiced tended to a more graceful personal movement, or the manners taught and practiced were up to the proper standard in refined society, is an open question, but there was dead loads of fun about it and the youngsters of that day wont soon forget the jolly, rollicking times they had .at the Milford dancing school. The upper room of the Case House was utilized for about every purpose imaginable. A stage was rigged across one end of the hall and amateur theatricals became one of the standard entertainments of Milford pioneer society ; and by the way, it is very much of a question whether these aiuateur efforts have been equalled by anything since pro- duced. They certainly have not been excelled.
In connection with the amateur theatricals it may be well to notice the occasion that produced them. Early in the history of Milford several of the prominent ladies conceived the idea of breaking the monotony of pioneer life by organizing a li- brary association. Under the intelligent leadership of Mrs. T. S. Seymour, Mrs. H. C. Crary, Mrs. I. S. Foster, Mrs A. Case and a few others an organization was soon effected. The
LIBRARY ASSOCIATION 479
first problem that presented itself for solution was the question of funds. After duly considering the matter it was decided to provide a series of entertainments among which amateur theatricals had a prominent place. These entertainments were phenomenally successful and were liberally patronized, thereby enabling the projectors to carry out their plan of procuring a small but well selected library of choice literature and placing it within the reach of all who chose to avail themselves of its privileges.
The Milford Library Association is one of the pleasant memories of the early days of that thriving place, and is one of the many evidences tending to establish the claim, which has been heretofore commented on, that in intellectual development and mental culture the early settlers of this county were much in advance of what is usually expected of a pioneer community.
The old hall was also used for religious meetings in the early days. The first sermon preached there was by Rev. J. R. Up- ton. Mr. Upton was sent to the frontier by the Home Mission- ary Society of the Congregational Church and for a while was supported by them. Perhaps a brief notice of his labors would be in f)lace here as well as anywhere. Mr. UjDton was a gradu- ate of Amherst College and was conceded to be one of the finest scholars in the state. Hie w,as not an orator, indeed, his . manner as a speaker was not at all prepossessing until you be- gan to follow his line of thought and get interested in his sub- ject and his manner of treating it ; then it became intensely in- teresting. There have been many more entertaining speakers in this county than Mr. Upton, but for profound scholarship and liberal culture he was the peer of the ablest. ISl'O minister of any denomination in this county ever took the deep interest in the cause of education that was always manifested by Mr. Upton. Teachers' associations and teachers' institutes he always
480 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
attended, not as a guest to be invited to open with prayer or to' •offer a few commonplace remarks that meant nothing, but he was always a member and attended as an interested worker and one who was in part responsible for the success or failure of the enterprise. He was one of the early homesteaders in Excel- sior township, but his work extended to all parts of the county. After living on his homestead the time necessary to perfect his title, he removed to Spirit Lake but kept up his work in th<3 different localities for several years until the death of his wife broke up his family, after which he removed to Sibley. While his work was not showy, it left its impress on society equal to any one who ever labored here.
The first school in Milford was in the summer of 1872 and was taught by Miss Helen Lawton, of Emmet County. She was succeeded the following winter by Miss Emma Gillett also of Emmet County. During the summer of 1873 and the fol- lowing winter the school was taught by Mrs. A. L. Buckland. Shortly after this Mrs. H. C. Crary became identified with the Milford school and taught several terms in succession with marked success. R. B. ISTicol taught the last term before the school was moved to the new town.
The first regular practicing physician in Milford was Doctor Everett, a young man of decided ability, who settled therei in the fall of 1872, but his health failing after a few months he returned to his former home in Illinois, where he soon died. Previous to this time Dr. W. S. Beers had practiced some but he w,as in other business and did not care to practice when not absolutely necessary. Dr. H. C. Crary established himself in Milford in the fall of 1874 and remained in practice there until he moved to Spencer in the fall of 1880. He was also superintendent of schools during this period.
The first postoffice in Milford was established in 1869 with I. S. Foster as postmaster. He was. succeeded in the ofiice the
MILFORD IMPROVEMENTS 481
following year hj L. A. Litel, who held it until 1872, when he resigned and W. F. Carlton was appointed. He continued in that position until the fall of 1881 when he was elected county auditor and moved to Spirit Lake, when Mr. Foster again took the office which he had vacated eleven years before, .and was acting in that capacity when the town was moved to its new location in 1882. The mail facilities at that time were a daily stage from Spencer to Jackson and return. The pioneer stage line of Bailey & Barney is well remembered by the old timers.
The first store in the old town was started by L. A. Litel in the summer of 1870, he having purchased of A. D. Inman an old granary building which he moved to the town site and fixed up as a store, and occupied it temporarily while he was erecting .a more commodious building into which he moved the ensuing fall. He remained in business there until the fall of 1871, when he was succeeded by Carlton Brothers, who in l^ovember, 1871, started in with groceries and hardware. The following summer they put in a set of tinner's tools, the first in the county. In 1873 they added dry goods.
K. A. Smith also erected a store building and started a gen- eral store in the fall of 1870, and remained in business there until January 1, 1872, when he sold out to Dr. W. S. Beers, who, after continuing in business there for a while, bought the Case House and fitted up the lower room for a store, to which he transferred his business, where he remained until 1874. He then sold out to ^Wallace Smith and moved to Spirit Lake. In the meantime he had rented the old store to A. Price, of Lakeville, who occupied it .as a drugstore for 'a while, after which it was moved down to the lower mill. Wallace Smith remained in business until the spring of 1877, when he sold out and moved to Westport.
In 1876 the Carlton Brothers finished off a store building which had been commenced by I. S. Foster & Com-
482 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
pany, across the street from their first hjcation and moved their business into it, remaining there until 1879, when the store was occupied by I. S. Foster & Company, and the Carltons occupied the building vacated bv Wallace Smith. I. S. Foster & Conipqny continued in the business until the locating of the railroad forced the moving of the town, they moving with it. The first blacksmith shop in Milford was conducted by S. E. Inman and Greorge 'Middleton, but they were in a short time succeeded by Chris Kessey. Sev- eral residences were built, but these cannot be noticed in detail.
As a village the old town of Milford started in with as bright prosjDects as any new town away from railroads could desire, but the money panic of 1872, succeeded as it was by the four years of entire destruction of crops by the grasshopper raid, put a stop to its growth, and when they had partially recovered from that the location of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Kailroad forced an entire change of location. Most of the im- portant buildings were moved to the ncAv town the last but not least being the "old grist mill,'" which, by the way, had been thoroughly overhauled and entirely rebuilt and fitted up with modern machinery long before its removal. It is not at all probable that the mill as rebuilt on the present location con- tains a single piece of machinery or stick of timber that was originally used in its construction, but it is the old mill ,all the same and will always remain such to those who were interested in starting the project and have watched its progress through the varying vicissitudes it was destined to pass.
In the summer of 1873 Henry Barkman and R. A. Smith erected a second mill on the outlet .a mile below the other one. It was believed at that time that the outlet water power would prove a permanent one and had it done so it would have been one of the best in the state. The work on the mill was in an advanced state when the countrv w.as struck bv the memorable
THE OKOBOJI MILL 483
grasshopper raid of 1873. To stop where they were and to go no farther was to lose all that had been done, Avhile the ontlook was not very promising in case they went forward with their work. This, however, they finally decided to do. Accordingly the work was continued and the mill put into running order in Oc- tober, 1873. The mill did fairly well that season as the destruc- tion of crops was but partial. Had emigration remained what it had been for three years previous, the mill could doulytless have been made to pay, but instead of that large tracts of land were abandoned and in some instances whole neighborhoods al- most depopulated. Again, what wheat was raised during and .after the grasshopper visitation was far inferior in quality to that raised before. Ow^ng to all of these adverse circumstances the mill never was made to pay, Mr. Barkman died in Febru- ary, 1878. For a while after his death the administrators of his estate continued to operate it but it was a losing game.
After several shifts it finally fell into the hands of D. X. Guthrie, who overhauled it entirely, throwing out the old buhrs and putting in the roller system with all the modern improve- ments. About this time the water supply failed and he was obliged to add an engine and power house. All of these changes involved heavy expense, much greater than was at first antici- pated, and Mr. Guthrie was finally glad to dispose of it for much less than it cost him. As has already been noited the first railroad was built into Milford in the fall of 1882, and that the location of the ro.ad forced a change in the location of the toA\Ti. The new tow^n appears on the records as Xorth Milford, although it is known throughout the county by the old name of Milford. The land on which the new town is lo- cated was purchased by John Lawler, and the town as laid out by him w.as surveyed and platted and the plat put on record August 21, 1882.
484 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
The first business set up in the new town was the lumber yards of Rasmussen Brothers. Later on they added coal and grain. Several new buildings were erected that fall, also sev- eral were moved up from the old town. One of the first of the new buildings erected was the Commercial Savings Bank. A hardware store was erected by R. M. Brigham and occu- pied by Snyder & Bowers.
I. S. Foster & Company opened the first dry goods store in 'Milf ord. They moved up their old store from the old town, ■\\'hich they set back from the street and used as a ware room, and erected a large store in front of it. J. A. Ellis erected a store building that fall, and in January the firm of Ellis & Blackert opened up a general store. There were two lumber yards started at about the same time, the first one as already stated by Rasmussen Brothers and the other by P. Staur & Company, Charles Darrow .acting as agent and salesman.
Chris Kessey moved his blacksmithing business up from the old town and was the first blacksmith. His was one of the first advertisements appearing in the first number of the Milford ]\rail, and reads as follows :
"blacksmith shop. "You will find the same old man .at the new stand, to-wit, namely: Chris Kessey, who has a new shop in full blast at the new town, and will do all kinds of blacksmithing."
The first number of The Milford Mail was issued December 29, 1882. J. A. Smith, formerly of the Spirit Lake Beacon, editor and publisher.
C. T. Fox was the first physician to locate in the new town, and C. W. Hilbert was the first druggist there. Dr. J. E. Green succeeded Doctor Fox as physician early the following spring, and about the first of June he came into possession of the drug business which he greatly enlarged.
MILFORD MAIL 485
The first agricultural warehouse in Milford was established bj Bender Brothers, of Spencer, Frank Knight acting .as their agent. They also advertised to deal in grain and stock. In May, George A. White established the White Agi-icultural Warehouse.
The Central House, by K. C. McCutchin, was the first hotel, and was soon followed by a restaurant and lunch room by Mr. C. Potter.
E. G. Hall was the first to advertise insurance. E. A. Case & Company represented real estate. The livery business was represented by Ira F. Hall and Hiram Davis.
A more extended notice of the pioneer newspaper of Mil- ford, the Milford Mail, is in order. As has been stated the first number was dated December 28, 1882. The paper was founded by J. A. Smith, formerly one of the proprietors of the Spirit Lake Beacon, but before the expiration of the first year he sold out to R. B. oSFico], who assumed full control of 'the paper and conducted it until about 1886, whej; he sold out to E. G. Blackert. Mr. Blackert remained in control ,a short time, when he sold it back to Mr. Nicol, preparatory to going into the Beacon with Mr. Eunk. In May, 1898, George Sherburne and W. T. Davidson bought the outfit of Xicol and conducted the paper until September, 1899, when ]\lr. David- son sold his interest to E. E. Heldridge, thus forming the firm as it now stands. Considerable new material was from time to time added, and in 1901 a new cylinder press was put in and a few months later a gasoline engine was added, and other improvements have been made until now it averages up with the best establishments of its kind.
Mr. Sherburne has long been known as one of the ablest job printers in this part of the state, while Mr. Hieldridge has a quaint and original way of putting things that is decidedly "catchy," and together they are making the M.ail a decidedly
486 DICKINSON COUNTY • IOWA
readable and reliable paper. In Mareli, li>01, it was enlarged to a six column quarto. It has been one of" the official papers of the county since January 1, 1899.
A second paper, the Milford Sentinel, was started by Bryant & Smith in 1896, but they suspended publication in May, 1898. In the September following R. B. Nicol commenced the publication of the Milford Monitor, and conducted it unt'l SeiDtember, 1900, when the Mail bought the subscription list and Nicol moved the material to Fostoria and established the Fostoria Record.
When the location of the town was changed in 1882, I. S. Foster was postmaster and remained such until 1885, when he was succeeded by E. A. Case, who held through Cleveland's first term. In 1889 he w^as succeeded by R. B. Nicol, who acted dur- ing Harrison's administration, and upon Cleveland's second election Austin Case w^as appointed and held until after Mc- Kinley's election. R. F. Price was appointed in 1897 and still acts in that capacity. It was constituted a presidential offiice in July, 1900.
The Commercial Savings Bank of Milford was another of the early institutions of the town, it having been founded in 1882. Of course .at first the capital was small and the busi- ness light, but it has grown with the growth of the country until it is recognized as one of the safe and solid financial in- stitutions of the county. It has recently been changed to the First National Bank of Milford. A second bank, the Milford Savings Bank, was started about 1897 and is also doing a good business.
The independent school district of Milford was formed from territory situated part in Milford and part in Okoboji town- ships, and one schoolhouse from each township was moved into town and the two were made to do duty for school purposes until 1888, when the old buildings were sold and a more modern
CHURCHES 487
structure erected in their place. This building was destroyed by fire in 1891, but was sooii^ replaced by another one built from the same plan as the original.
At the time the business of Milford was moved from the old town, Rev. H. L. Smith, of the M. E. Church, had charge of the circuit, and, therefore, was the first Methodist preacher in the new town. His appointments were: Preaching at the Bennett Schoolhouse at 10 :30 o'clock A. M., at the Pillsbury Schoolhouse at 3 o'clock P. M., and at Milford lat 6:30 P. M. Alternate Sundays : Preaching at the Westport School- house at 10 :30 A. M., at the Davis Schoolhouse at 3 :00 P. M., and at Milford at 6 :30 P. M. The Sabbath school at this time was a union Sabbath school, A. K. Thirneaure, superintendent.
The Methodists were the first to erect a church building in Milford. The preliminary steps were taken early in the spring. A building committee was appointed of which B. F. Wood was president; N. Mowers, treasurer, and H. L. Smith, secretary. The church had so far reached completion that it was dedi- cated October 28, 1883. In writing of that event the Milford Mail of ]!*^ovember second says :
"Presiding Elder Gleason and Revs. Mitchell, Keister .and Smith were in attendance, but the active part of the service devolved upon Rev. J. T. Crippen, of Mason City, who came by special request for that purpose and he acquitted himself well."
Mr. Smith was succeeded in 1883 by Rev. M. Keister, who was in charge two years when he was in turn succeeded by Rev. — King, who remained but one year. In 1891 Rev. Shoemaker was appointed to the charge and remained three years, and was succeded by Rev. Pen dell, who remained but one year, and was succeeded by F. L. Moore, who remained three years, and he was in turn succeeded by Rev. Fegtly, who remained on the circuit two years and was succeeded in 1900 by Rev. Hath-
488 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
away, who remained but six months, and was succeeded the following spring by Rev. R. H. Reidy, the present pastor.
During the summer of 1901 improvements to the amount of $4,000 were made on the church building, thus making it one of the most attractive church buildings -in the county. A flour- ishing Sabbath school has been maintained from the first; also an active branch of the Epworth League .and all of the acces- sories of a live and vigorous organization.
The work of Rev. J. R. Upton for the Congregationalists has already been referred to. His work was largely prelim- inary and consisted principally in organizing and getting into Avorking order societies in different localities. He organized a society in Milford as early as 1872, and held services there as often as possible without neglecting other duties. In June, 1883, the Milford church made provision for stated services by engaging as pastor Rev. T. ,W. McHoes, who divided his time between Milford and Lakeville. Indeed, up to this time and until 1888, Milford and Lakeville were united in one so- ciety, the services alternating between the two places. For a few years the interest flagged. It was hard times. The mem- bership was small and as before stated the Home Missionary Society withdrew its support. This was about the time that the church at Spirit Lake disbanded and its members went to the Presbyterians.
In 1888 the Home Missionary Society sent another minister to this county in the person of Rev. IST. L. Burton. Tilirough his active efforts a reorganization was effected, this time Mil- ford and Lakeville organizing separately. Prominent among the Milford members were Mr. and Mrs. Charles Tinkham, Mrs. T. S. Seymour, Mrs. Wilkinson, Mrs. W. A. Cook, Mrs. C. A. Bunker, and perhaps a few others. New members came in quite rapidly, and the society w.as soon in a flourishing con- dition. Mr. Burton was succeeded by Rev. D. E. Skinner,
CHURCHES 489
also an agent for the Home Missionary Society. Tlie first {resident pastor was Rev. L. R'. Fitch, who came in 1890. Mr. Fitch was succeeded by Rev. Arthur Weatherly, who remained several years. After Mr. (Weatherly the pulpit was occupied one year by Rev. — Gardner, a Freewill Baptist minister. He was succeeded by Rev. R. L. (Webber, who remained one year, and in turn was succeeded by Rev. H. H. Burch, who remained about two years, and was succeeded in May, 1901, by Rev. W. G. Johnston, the present pastor.
The preliminary steps for erecting a church building were taken in 1890. The Home Missionary Society contributed four hundred dollars and the balance was provided by the resi- dent members. Work commenced in 1890, and the church was dedicated in 1891. Up to about 1898 the church received some aid from the Home Missionary Society in paying its pastors. Since that time they have relied entirely on themselves. In 1901 a spacious addition was erected at an expense of $1,000. A live Sabbath school and an active Christian Endeavor So- ciety are maintained.
The first Baptist Church in .Afilford was organized in the summer of 1882, by a voluntary movement on the part of a few citizens of the town, prominent among whom were Mr, and Mrs. Roswell Osborn, and A. K. Turneaure, The meeting for that purpose was held in the schoolhouse in the old town pre- vious to its being moved. Rev. Braistead was the first preacher. He lived at Spirit Lake and divided his labors bettween the two places. He was succeeded by Rev. Andrews. The first resident pastor was R)ev. J. E. Mcintosh, who came in the spring of 1891 and remained two years, when he was succeeded by Rev. T. E. S. Lapham. Since that time the church h.as been supplied by Rev. C. S. Slo.an and C. W. Harvey. The first steps toward erecting a church building were taken in
490 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
1891, and the church was completed and dedicated that fall, Rev. J. E. Mcintosh j^reaching the dedicatory sermon.
There h,as always been quite a large per cent of Scandina- vians and people of Scandinavian descent in and around Mil- ford. As usual they nearly all leay towards the Lutheran faith. The Lutherans are always strict ol)servers of the ordi- nances and requirements of their church, and as a matter of course early adopted sucli measures as their means enabled them to plant ,and foster their own religious ideas. At first this consisted of ministers of that denomination visiting a com- munity and establishing a neighborhood school at the residence of some settler for tlie purpose of imparting such instruction as all were expected to become proficient in before being con- firmed in the church. The work was conducted in this manner until the summer of 1890, when they erected a commodious church building in the south part of Okoboji township. One of the principal promoters of this enterprise was G. Matthe- sen, who was with the first Scandinavians that settled in th'- county, coming as early .as 1858.
The Catholics also were early represented in Milford. At the first most of the Catholic population instead of residing in town were scattered out on the prairie in all directions. The first services were held at the house of Daniel Ryan, some two :or three miles southeast of Milford, some time in the summer of 1884 by Father I^orton, who was then located at Spirit Lake and had charge of the Spirit Lake and Spencer work. The meetings were first held at the homes of the settlers and afterwards either in the schoolhouse or in the hall over J. A. Ellis' store. Father ISTorton was succeeded by Father Carroll also of Spencer about 1885 or 1886, who was in turn succeeded by Father McCauley. The preliminary steps for erecting a church building were taken in 1887 and 1888, and in 1889 a plain but commodious structure was erected. Among the most
CIVIC SOCIETIES 491
earnest workers in this enterprise were Daniel Ryan, the Mc- Guires .and a few others. The membership is nearly evenly divided between the Irish and the German Catholics, and when it came to selecting a name for the new church considerable good-natured rivalry existed as to which side should have the honor of furnishing the name, but the Irish won and the church is known as St. Patrick's church. The priests since Father McCauley's time have been Father Tierney and Father Kirby. Milford is attached to the Spencer parish or rather the same priest ministers to both places.
The different civic societies represented in Milford are the Masons, Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias, Woodmen ,and Yeo- men. Gloaming lodge No. 482, A. F. & A. M., was first organ- ized under a dispensation granted by the Grand Lodge of Iowa July 7, 1886. The first officers were: A. Case, W. M. ; C. Stuart, S. W. ; Frank McDonald, J. iW. ; T. S. Seymour, Treas- urer; R. B. ISTicol, Secretary. A charter was granted June 3, 1887. The first officers under the charter w^ere A. Case, W. M. ; B. Pitcher, S. W. ; W. B. Jones, J. W. ; W. A. Meek, Treasurer, and R. B. Nicol, Secretary. The number of charter members was seventeen. Since that time the office of ,W. M. has been held by B. Pitcher, T. P. Barringer, W. F. Pillsbury, J. L. Bas- comb and Q. C. Fuller. The present membership is fifty- seven. The present officers are: Q. C. Fullei, W. M. ; S. O. Pillsbury, S. W. ; H. S. Abbott, J. W. ; W. F. Pills- bury, Treasurer; S. A. Winey, Secretary; E. E. Heldridge, S. D. ; F. A. Heldridge, J. D. ; A. Case, Tyler. Total number of meml>ers since the lodge was organized eighty-nine. jSTum- ber of deaths in the lodge, three.
In connection with the Masonic lodge a chapter of the Order of the Eastern Star was organized in 1895. The first officers were R. F. Price, W. P.; !Mrs. W. H. H. Myers, W. M. ; Mrs. E. F. Miller, A. M., and Mrs. E. A. Case, Secretary. The
492 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
position of W. M. has since been iheld by Mrs. E. F. Miller, Mrs. C. A. West, Mrs. A. Case and Mrs. Dr. Coldren is elected for 1902. The officers for the current vear are J. L. Bas- comb, W. P. ; Mrs. Dr. Coldren, W. M. ; Mrs. E. F. Miller, A. M. ; Mrs. J. L. Pitcher, Secretary""; j\Irs. A. Case, Treasurer; Miss jSTellie Pillsbury, Conductor, and Mrs. R. F. Price, As- sociate Conductor. The membership at the present time is not far from fifty, and the affairs of the chapter are in a very flourishing and satisfactory condition.
Monitor Lodge, ISTo. 491, 1. O. O. F., was organized in April, 1886. The Past Gran'ds up to the present time have been: F. H. Bunker, E. G. Hall, W. E. Hall, G. A. O'Farrell, \i. B . :^icol, S . A . iWolf , C. E . Blackert, Matt Weiser. The present officers are : Valentine Kaasch, jST. G. ; S. A. Wolf, Sec- retary. The total membership at the present time is not far from fifty.
Wallar Post, ]^o. 223, G. A. R., was organized September 13, 1883. It was the first civic society in Milford. The char- ter members were: R. B. JSTicol, Daniel Bennett, James Held- ridge, Thompson Emerson, A. D. Inman, William Chase, Horace Bennett, Charles A. Darrow, E. R. Wilcox, D. H. Cole and Ira Foster. In all sixty-five names appear on the records as having been members at some period. The present mem- bership is not far from twenty-five. The G. A. R. differs from all other societies in this : When an old member is "mustered out" there are no young ones to fill their place. The position of Commander has been filled by William Chase, H. H. ShijD- man, Zina Henderson, A. D. Inman, James Heldridge, R. R. Wilcox, R. B. Mcol, W. H. H. Myers, and Daniel Mead. A more than ordinary degree of interest has always been mani- fested by the members of this post. In connection with it is an active Women's Relief Corps, and .a feeling of comradeship is
CIVIC SOCIETIES 493
cultivated and encouraged that is a long way in advance of many other organizations.
Okoboji Lodge, l^o. 429, Knights of Pythias, was organized in May, 1895. The first officers were: C. H. Perry, Chan- cellor; G. A. West, Vice-Chancellor ; H. S. Abbott, Clerk; E. A. Case, M. of W. ; James McElroy, M. of E. ; L. C. Miller, M. of F. ; George Paton, Keeper of Eiecords and Seals. Chan- cellors since the first have been C. A. West, R. F. Price, A. H. McCutchin, R. F. Livingston, Q. C. Fuller and George Paton. There were about thirty charter members and the mem- bershijD does not vary much from that now.
Live Oak Camp, 'No. 2567, Modern Woodmen of America, was first organized in 1892 with fifteen charter members. The officers were D. L. Van Housen, V.-C. ; L. H. Miller, W. A. ; J. J. Lee, Banker ; C. H. Perry, Clerk. The office of Venerable Consul has since been held by C. E. Blount and J. D. Green. The present membership is about sixty-two.
"Goldenrod" Homestead, No. 250, Brotherhood of American Yeomen, wa& organized in March, 1899, and the first officers were : C. E. Blackert, Foreman ; Mrs. C. M. Coldren, Master of Ceremonies ; H. H. Burch, Physician ; G. M. Sherburne, Master of Accounts ; W. A. M,ay, Overseer ; Mrs. Alice O'Far- rell. Lady Rebecca ; Mrs. Jennie E. Price, Lady Rowena ; R. F. Price, Correspondent; Mrs. May Hemphill, Guard, and William Paton, Watchman. There were thirty-two charter members and the present membership is about thirty-six. The lodge is in a healthy and flourishing condition.
Milford was incorporated June 11, 1892. The first officers were: W. F. Pillsbury, Mayor, and H. J. ISTorheim, Recorder, The Councilmen were William Chase, J. A. Ellis, C. A. West, R. C. McCutchin, Andrew Diavidson and G. A. O'Farrell. The Mayors since that time have been C. A. West, H. R. Lund and R. M. Cowham. The present officers are R. M. Cowham, Mayor,
494 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
and George Paton, Recorder. The Councilmen are, W. H. Myers, C. E. Ulrich, Val Rausch, C. Tortensen, D. L. Van Housen, W. F. Pillsbury. The population, as shown by the census of 1900, is 485. It is claimed by many that this is m,a- terially less than the correct number.- i*^ow this may on may not be true. The large aggregate of business transacted, the number of churches and societies maintained and the large number of neat and tasty residences that surround the tow.'i on all sides would seem to justify this claim. At any rate, it is an uncontrovertible fact that for a town of its reported popu- lation, Milford has an unusually large number of pleasant resi- dences. The town never had a boom and has no imposing structures. It has been built up wholly by men who com- menced in a small way and have grown up with it. It has no particularly wealthy men to whom the people can turn in an emergency and expect an advance of a few thousands to hcl]i them out, and perhaps it is just as well.
It might be interesting to give more attention to the present business .and business interests of thei town, but lack of space prevents. If this were done in one instance, it would neces- sarily follow^ that it should be done in all, and thajt. not only the changes and improvements in the towms, but in the country as well should all be noticed in detail, and this is clearly im- possible.
CHAPTEE XXXIX.
LAKE PARK, SUPERIOR AND TERRILL SILVER
LAKE TOWNSHIP^ A LITTLE OF ITS EARLY HISTORY
THE EARLY SCHOOLS THE FIRST POSTOFFICE
EARLY RELIGIOUS MEETINGS THE COMING OF
THE RAILROAD THE TOWN OF LAKE PARK THE
FIRST BUSINESS HOUSES AND ENTERPRISES THE
LAKE PARK NEWS CHURCHES CIVIC SOCIETIES
POSTOFFICE INCORPORATION OF THE TOWN
MAYORS PRESENT OFFICERS SUPERIOR THE
TOWN STARTED BY THE RAILROAD COMPANY
FIRST POSTOFFICE THE FIRST BUSINESS VEN- TURES POSTOFFICE INCORPORATION OFFI- CERS THE DESTRUCTIVE FIRE OF 1897 TERRILL
carpenter's wild railroad SCHEME THE
MINNEAPOLIS & SAINT LOUIS ROAD THE TOWN
SCHOOL AN INTERESTING EXPERIMENT OF A
LIVE TOWN.
AKE PARK is situated on the northeast shore of Silver Lake, in Silver Lake township. The building of the Bnrlington, Cedar Rapids & Northern Railroad in 1882 stimulated the building of several towns along the line, and Lake Park was one of the principal ones. The first settle- ment in Silver Lake township was made in August, 1868, by George Nicholson, who took the first homestead in that locality. He homesteaded some fractional forties on the southeast side of the lake. He took his claim in August, and then went back east for his family. Upon his return in the fall he was accomj)anied by a young man by the name of Andrew Cloud, who took a claim on the north side, on what afterwards became the home of C.
496 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
B. Knox. The next year, or in 18G9, Cloud sold or disposed of his claim to C. B. Knox. The price paid for claims, even the best, was not enough to make a man vain of his wealth. Other settlers for that year were John Dingwall and James Acheson, and one or two others, who remained but a short time. In 1870 the settlement was increased by the arrival of Alex- ander Kobertson with a large family, and John Dickerson.
In 1871 l^icholson sold out to J. B. Drew. Kobert Fletcher and CL Lewis also came in 1871, and John K. Robertson, and possibly one or two others, in 1872. In the Drew or N'ichol- son Grrove there were at the time of the arrival of the first Avhite settlers, the original tepee-poles left standing in place 'Sufficient for spreading some six or seven tepees. 'Now, while the Indians in moving about the country took enough poles with them to set up a temporary camp wherever they happened to be, they did not take enough along for a very elabora;te affair, but at many of the desirable camping places about the lakes and on the streams they had tepee-poles set up which they left permanently in place, so that on arrival ,at any! of these permanent camping places, all they would have to do would be to spread their tepees on the framework of poles already in place. There were several of these perm.anent camps found by the iirst settlers in 1857. One on the southeast of Loon Lake, one in Marble Grrove west of Spirit Lake, one in Okoboji Grove near the old site of the Mattock cabin, one in the grove south of Miller's Bay, and, as before stated, one in the Drew or ^Nicholson Grove, southeast of Silver Lake. At each of these several places there were poles set up for spreading from six to nine tepees.
After the Indians left and before the white settlers came. Silver Lake was a favorite camping ground for trappers. Every little grove of native timber in northwestern Iowa or south- western Minnesota has at some time or another been the head-
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498 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
quarters of some trapping outfit. In addition to tli(;i^e who made trapping a reglilar bnsiness, most of the settlers had more or less traps which they tended at the proper season, and the fnr taken proved an imjwrtant factor in tiding oyer many a family of the early pioneers nntil snch times as the original claim could be converted into a farm and made to produce suf- ficient for the family support.
Silver Lake was originally attached to Lakeville township and was set apart from it in 1872. The first school in the town- ship was before it Avas so set off, or at least before the new or- ganization was completed. The first teacher was Miss Louise J\Iiddleton of Lakeville, who was employed by the Lakeville school officers. The first term w.as in the house of C. B. Knox. His house was a one room affair, possibly about sixteen by twenty feet, and one st(irv high, which liad to answer for kitch- en, living room and school room alternately. In addition to this, room was always found for anv ])enighted traveler or way- farer who might put in an appearance. This was before the days of tramps and holjoes. Xo cabin was so small that the owner would or could be justified in refusing to entertain a worthy stranger —
"Guidance and rest and food and fire In vain he never must require."
The second terin of school w^as taught by the same teacher in the residence of John Dingwall under similar conditions.
One of the first enterprises to receive attention after the town was set off and a separate orii'anization effected, was the build insr of a new schoolhouse. The first schoolhouse was built in IST'S opposite tlie northeast corner of the lake as soon as pos- sible after the organization of the district was completed. This
was known as the Knox Schoolhouse. A second one w.as built;
i
the following vear at the southwest corner of the lake and
EARLY INCIDENTS 499
known as the Dingwall Schoolhouse. These schoolhouses werc bnilt in good substantial style and supplied with first-class fur- niture and apparatus. E. B. Nicol taught the first term of school in each of these houses, the first one being in the Knox Schoolhouse in the winter of 1873 and 1874, .and the second one being in the Dingwall Schoolhouse the succeeding winter.
After getting things into running order, they adopted the plan of having school in but one of the schoolhouses at a time, that is, they would have a terml of school first in one school- house and then in the other, and those residing in the neighbor- hood where the school was not in session always! sent a team with their pupils across to the other schoolhouse. In this Avay a more regular attendance was obtained and they were enabled to secure the most competent teachers. Indeed, so far as school matters are concerned, Silver Lake has ever been one of the most liberal and progressive townships in the county. They always employed the most competent teachers to be had. They paid the highest wages and furnished the most improved facili- ties of anv in the countv, and in a general Avav took a more ac- live interest in school matters than is usual in a new country. The plan which they first .adopted was followed about ten years, or until the building of the railroad so changed conditions that i" new deal was in order,
The first census in which the population of Silver Lake was reported separately was that of 1873. In that report the popu- lation is given as sixty-seven, and in 1875 as fifty-nine, and in 1880 as forty-five. From 1873 to 1877 inclusive were the grasshopper years, which accounts for the growth being the wrong way. After the grasshoppers left it w.as some years be- fore people in search of a location would favorably entertain the idea of settling in a country so recently ravaged by tjhe pests. This accounts for the slow development of the county (during the five years subsequent to their disappearance.
500
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
j„.J*'
SCHOOL HOUSE LAKE PARK.
A postoffiee was established in 1872, C. B. Knox, postmaster. The name of the oi!iee was Austin. Why that name was adopt- ed does not appear. Two mail routes had been established a short time before, one from Spirit Lake to Sibley and the other from Spirit Lake to Worthington. The Austin mail was carried over both of these lines, they following the same route as far as Silver Lake, when they separated, one going to Sib- ley and the other to Worthington. The mail was carried weekly over each route, one trip being made in the early part of the w^eek and the other in the latter part.
The first religious services in the township were conducted by Eev. J. K. Upton, in 1870 or 1871. Mr. Upton's work at Milford, Lakeville and Spirit Lake has been noticed at some length. About the same time Rev. G. Brown, of the M. E. Church, held one or two services at the residence of J. B. Drew. D. W. Lounsberry, an early settler, held services here pretty regularly for three or four years, though not employed or sent here by .any denomination. After the first schoolhouse was
EARLY BUSINESS VENTURES
501
built in 1873, the meetings were for the most part held there. Before that time they were held at the homes of the few sett- tiers. Rev. J. B. Edmnnds, who originally had a, homestead on a portion of the Willow Spring farm, held services there for some time. IN^one of these early services were maintained by any of the established churches, but were the result of ar- rangements between the settlers and the several preachers.
The Burlington, Cedar Rapids & I^Torthern Railroad was extended west from Spirit Lake in the summer and fall of 1882. The site selected for the new town was a portion of sectio!ii 27, township 100, rang-e 38. Dr. Henry Shimer of Mt. Car- roll, Illinois, was the original proprietor. The plat was filed for record August 18, 1882. The first building on the town site was a general store by iWilliam Thompson. Some of the first business ventures were as follows : Armin & Riley were the first in the grain and lumber business, they having started in 1882. In 1887 they sold their business to Stockdale & Bahls, wlio materially enlarged it and added live stock as well. They had previously been in the grain business, having built
THE PIONEER HOTEL OF LAKE PARK.
502 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the first elevator in 1884. Harvev & Truesdale started a hard- ware store about the same time, while W. S. Bowles put up and operated the first blacksmith shop in the town. The pio- neer hotel was built by Anthony Arnold and was conducted by him up to 1888, when he sold out to M'ajor E. P. Ring, avIio improved it and conducted it for several years. Mr. Ring also in connection with the hotel, condticted the first livery barn in the place.
The first physician to hang out his shingle was Dr. Beebe in 1885, and the first drugstore was started a year or two later by Dr. C. E. Everett, formerly of Sj)irit Lake.
S. Benson put in the first restaurant in Lake Park, and after- wards he put in a stock of dry goods and was succeeded in the dry goods business in 1887 by Strathman & Bock. The first real estate and insurance man was S. M. Thomas. L. Stolten- berg was the first to handle farm machinery, he having started in that business as early as 1885. Indeed, most of the branch- es of the business represented in town were started about that time, manv of them in a small wav and might now be consid- ered insignificant, l)ut jill the same they were the pioneer movements in l)uilding up the town.
The first butcher shop was started by John Hunt in 1888. Ole Knutesen was the first shoemaker. At first he worked in the back part of Thompson's store, but put up a building of his knvn in 1886. Tlie first furniture store was by J. T. Benson in 1890, and the first harness shop was by Elmer Buffum in 1891. He was succeeded by D. C. May, who erected one of the first three brick buildings in town. The first barber in town was Frank Dunbar. The first man to engage in the business ipf baling and shipping hay was H. H. Kitts.
As time passed there came a demand for larger and better buildings and better business facilities. In 1888 Koester & Company erected a store and put in a stock of goods that was
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504 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
considered a long way ahead of anything before attempted. Theodore Strathman, one of the members of the firm, was gen- eral manager of the concern.
In 1885 Mr. C. P. Bennett purchased several tracts of land on the south and southeast of Silver Lake with the object in view of rearing fine stock. In building up, his extensive im- provements, his aim all of the time has been to have everything first-class. Ample means has enabled him to indulge this pro- pensity to its fullest extent. In stocking his farm the same rule has been observed, until his herd of Hereford cattle are known among stock raisers and dealers as one of the finest in the mid- dle west. ]\rr. Bennett has been a liiascott to Lake Park in more wavs than one.
Every live town is supposed to have a live newspaper, and Lake Park is certainly no exception to this rule. The Lake Park News was established in 1890 by A. B. Chrysler, the first number appearing Friday, September first, of that year. The first issue was about three hundred copies It was uphill busi- ness- getting out the early numbers of the ]^ews. Mr. Chrys- ler had never worked in a printing office a day in his life and knew absolutely nothing of the proper disposition and arrange- ]nent of the furniture .and fixtures of a printing office, and yet, upon the arrival of his material, he tackled the job and with no assistant but his daughter, a bright girl of twelve, by dint of feeling his way along and by numerous experiments, he finally succeeded in getting things in working order. The only error made, .as was afterwards shown, was that some of the cases of type were placed wrong side to. In the composition and press- work, and, in fact, in everything connected with the getting out of the earlier numbers, it was cut and try and feel their way along until they had things as near right as they could get them, and then trust to luck for results.
CHURCHES AND CIVIC SOCIETIES 605
Among educators, a favorite motto is: "Learn to do by doing." Well, this is the way Chrysler learned the printing business. It is related that on one occasion Mr. Chrysler was un- expectedly called away, leaving the office in charge of his daugh- ter, who, nothing daunted, tackled the job of getting the paper out on time, which she succeeded in doing, and by the w^ay, some people declare it was one of the brightest numbers ever issued. They started in working off three hundred copies and have increased the number until now it requires seven hun- dred. In 1807, J. D. Flint and H. C. Darland purchased the outfit and conducted the paper a little less than two years, when they turned it back to its first o^vner. The J^ews was one of the official papers of the county from 1891 to 1896.
The pioneer schools of the township have already been no- ticed quite extensively. After the starting of the town in 1882, the old Knox Schoolhouse was made to do duty for a year or two, when more room was needed. In 1884 a new two room building was erected, but this soon proving too small, two, more rooms were added. Five teachers are employed and the old time interest maintained.
Th religious denominations represented in Lake Park are the Methodists, the Presbyterians and the . Catholics. The early religious services were decidedly cosmopolitan and it was not until about 1883 that denominational lines were drawn to any aj^preciable extent. In that year the Methodist Epis- copal Church established the Lake Park circuit, which was placed in charge of Rev. Hild. Since that time the appoint- ments on the circuit have been Reverends Cheney, Kieister, Woolery, Olds, G. .W. Barnes, J. C. Clearwater, — — Shoemaker and W. H. Prugh. The Methodists were also the first to erect a church building in town, their church having been erected in 1891. The present membership is about one hundred and ten. An enthusiastic Sabbath school and an
506
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
M. E, CHURCH. The first Church Building in Lake Park.
active branch of the Epworth League are maintained, and everything pertaining to the church is in a prosperous condi- tion.
The preliminary steps for organizing a Presbyterian Church were taken early in 1893 and ,an organization effected the same year. Through the active efforts of Reverend Clapp, and the hearty co-operation of resident members, the society was soon in a prosperous condition. They started in with eight members and from this the membership has increased until now the number is about forty. A neat .and commodious church build- ing was erected in 1895 and Doctor Bailey preached the dedi- catory sermon. Previous to this time the meetings were first
CHURCHES AND CIVIC .SOCIETIES 507
hold in the sclioolhoiise and later on in a hall over the black- smith shop. The resident Presbyterian ministers have been Rev. M. T. Ramer, Rev. — Valier, Rev. Joseph Mapeson and Rev. F. E. IToyt. An active Sabbath school has been maintained from the start and also Christian Endeavor and Christian Endeavor Junior societies have prospered.
The civic societies represented are the Masons, Odd Fellows, A. O. U. W. and the Modern Woodmen. Silver Lake Lodge, Xo. 527, A. F. & A. M., was organized under dispeinsation, April 15, 1893 They received their charter in August of the same year. The first officers were: Theodore Strathman, (W. M. ; John Linder, S. W. ; Frank Buflfum, J. W. ; John Buffuni, Treasurer ; J. M. Buffum, Secretary ; G. A. Triggs, S. D. ; W. W. Harris, J. I). ; A. A. Kingsley, S. S. ; J. W. C. S,alyard, J. S. ; J. M. Dunlap, Tyler. Masters since that time have been Theo. Strathman and D. C. May. The present elective officers are : * Theo. Strathman, iW. M. ; G. A. Triggs, S. W. ; Jacob Graham, J. W. ; E. F. i^ye, Treasurer; D. C. May, Secretary.
Lodge ISTo. — , I. O. O. F., w.as organized in October, 1895. The first officers were: W. B. Higbee, X. G. ; ]\L D. Green. V.-G. ; C. 'W. Flint, Secretary, and H. F. Asmessin, Treasurer. Since the first organization the N. G.'s have been M. D. Green, C. |^Y. Flint, G. Hayden, F. L. Ackerman, H. G. Flint, IT. Bock, W. Wright, G. W. Burrows and Edward Hudson. The lodge was at first organized with seven members but had thirty- one initiations at the first meeting.. The j^resent officers are : E. Hudson, N. G. ; C. S. Shultz, V.-G. ; Otto Schmeoser, Re- cording Secretary; Edw.ard Buffum, Financial Secretary; H. L. Asmessin, Treasurer. The present membership is about eighty. A Rebecca lodge of al)out fifty-six members was organ- ized near the close of the year 1899 and has been very flourish- ing from the start.
508
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
STATE SAVINGS BANK, Tlio first Brick Building erected in l^ake Park.
A lodge of the Ancient Order of United Workmen was or- ganized in the nineties, but not being well supported was allowed to lapse until in February, 1900, a reorganization was effected and officers chosen as follows : IT. C. Knox, M. W. ; G. A. Stouffer, P. M. W. ; G. W. Palmer, Recorder and Finan-
CHURCHES AND CIVIC SOCIETIES 509
cier. Since the first the Master Workmen have been, August Kruger and C. W. Turk. Present membership is abour twenty- five.
A camp of American Yeomen was organized some time in 1897. The first officers w^ere: W. B. Higbee, Foreman and J. G. Chrysler, Correspondent. For some reason the lodge meetings have not been kept up of late, but a few of the promi- nent members are keeping up the reports and grand lodge dues in order that the organization may not lapse and the charter be forfeited. The present membership is about twenty-seven.
The first banking institution in Lake P.ark was the private banking house of Green & Patch, which commenced business in 1889. One year later they organized as the Lake Park State Savings Bank, with John W. Cravens, President, and M. D. Green, Cashier. The State Savings Bank was the first brick building erected in Lake Park. The present officers are John W. Cravens, President, and A. C. Robertson, Cashier. A few years later a second bank, the German Savings Bank, was or- ganized, with Louis Stoltenberg, President, Theo. Bahls, Vice- President, and Theodore Strathman, Cashier.
iVbout 1882 the name of the postoffice was changed from Aus- tin to Lake Park and (William Thompson appointed post- master. At the time of Cleveland's second election, he was succeeded by Ira Breffle, who in turn w,as succeeded by A. B. Chrvsler.
■The town of Lake Park was incorporated in August, 1892. The first officers were : Mayor, John Buffum ; Recorder, Theodore Strathman ; Councilmen, H. H. Rohlf, D. C. May, E. P. Ring, F. W. Tutin, John Binder, William Patterson. The mavor's office has since been held bv A. B. Chrvsler, G. W. Burrows, C. S. Shultz, W. F. King, James Patterson, Theodiore Strathman .and L. Benson. The present officers are: Mayor, L. Benson ; Recorder, August Sindt ; and Councilmen,
510 DICiaNSON COUNTY - IOWA
W. S. Wright, S. W. Breffle, John Lincler, M. J). Green, J. G. Chrysler and H. C. Meyers. The population of the town ac- cording to the census of 1900 was 541, which was an increase of about 150 from that of five years before.
The fact has already been mentioned that at the time of the building of the Burlington, Cedar Ptapids" & ^N'orthern Kail- road, the question of voting subsidy to aid in its construction was submitted to the voters of Superior township and the proposition was defeated, but later on, upon the railway prom- ising to build and maintain a station within the township, the former action was reconsidered, and on the question being sub- mitted a second time, was carried by a good majority. The railroad was built through the township in the spring of 1882 and a depot built the ensuing year; Frank Taylor, station agent. This same year ,W. S. Gardner purchased the quarter section adjoining the town site on the west and soon after com- menced business in town by putting in the first general store. It would not be counted much of a store now, but answered all purposes when it was built. At first he carried only groceries but later on increased his stock by adding a general stock of such goods as are usually found at a country store, and as business increased he took a hand in about everything going. He bought .and shipped the first car load of hogs and the first car load of grain shipped from the station. It was before the day of ele- vators and stockyards. He also handled coal and farm ma- chinery.
Ed Fogarty was the first regular grain buyer. The first lumber yard wa^ started by Roberts & Sullivan, in 1885. Sub- sequently they sold out and were succeeded by the Farmers' Co-operative ComjDany. This was an organization made up of farmers, the object of which was to do away with the middle- men and to enable them to ship out their own grain and stock and ship in their own coal and lumber. They employed D.
EARLY BUSINESS VENTURES 511
L. Wylde as agent and manager. In addition to handling the produce of their own members, they bought and shipped grain and stock and sold coal and lumber. They also handled farm machinery. They continued in business about five year3, when they dissolved aiid were succeeded by one of the elevator companies.
The second store in Superior was erected by Warren Hurd about 1884, and was occupied by David Mitchell as a general store. He also carried a line of farm machinery.
The first hotel was built and conducted by D. E. Hurd back in the eighties, while the first livery barn was put in by iWar- ren Hurd and conducted by Frank Coyle. A somewhat more pretentious block was erected in 1889 than had been previously attempted .and was used for various purposes — as bank, news- paper office, drugstore and several other enterprises. The first bank, the Superior Savings Bank, was started in 1890 by iW. W. H^Tird. About this time or a little later, a newspaper, the Superior I^ews, was established by F. Finch. This paper was published until 1897, when the entire outfit was destroyed by fire and no attempt has been made to start up again.
The Superior postoffice was first established in 1883 and jW. S. Gardner appointed postmaster. He kept the office at his residence on the farm the first year, but he soon found it a great nuisance. Indeed, that was one of the considerations that induced him to put up a building and go into business in town. He held the office until 1890, when he was superseded by David Mitchell, who, after holding it two years, was in turn succeeded by D. L. l^Wylde. Mr. Wylde's successor was E. J. Olesen, the present incumbent.
The first religious denomination to get ,a foothold in the town were the Baptists, who organized a society soon after the town was started. They erected a church building, the first in the town, in 1890. Elder Braistead of Spirit Lake was the
512 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
first minister to hold Services here. This was previous to erect- ing the church Iniilding. Subsequent pastors have been Ran- dall, Fay and Elder Sloan. The present pastor is Elder Ham- ilton. The Methodist Episcopal Church has also had an or- ganization here from the first, a part of -the time holding their services in the schoolhouse .and later on alternate Sundays in the Baptist Church. In 1901 they erected their first churcli building. A two room schoolhouse was built as early as 1886, and two teachers have been regularly employed since that time.
In 1897, a considerable proportion of the business part of the town was destroyed by fire. The bank, hotel, drugstore, printing oflice, the dry goods and furniture store of J. P. J^el- 6on, the general store of D. L. Wylde, the restaurant of T. Trowbridge, and various other interests were Avholly destroyed. Some of them were afterwards rebuilt, but it was a long time before the various business interests recovered from their losses. Some of them never did.
Superior never had a rapid growth, and yet in some branch- es the business is much larger than in many townis of twice its size. In grain .and stock, and in coal and lumber, the business done is phenomenally large, while all of the ordinary branches of trade in a small country town are well represented. Of course, as is always the case, no sooner was business once start- ed than changes began to take place. 'New enterprises were inaugurated and the old ones passed into new hands, but it is not possible nor is it desirable to follow these changes in all their details.
The town was incorporated in February, 1896. The first meeting of the town council was held March 6, 1896. The first officers were as follows : L. Broderick, Mayor ; John Jacobs, Assessor ; G. M. iWest, Recorder, and L. F. Kleibenstein, M. C. Hogle, D. L. Wylde, C. D. Sergeant, T. Trowbridge and J. P. ISTelson formed the council. The Mayors since the first
RAILROAD PROJECTS 513
have been J. C. Smith, John Jacobs and L. F. Stevenson. The present incnmbent is O. C. Trueblood, and J. P. Xelson, Recorder. The census of 1900 gives the population of the town as 187 and of the township, 728.
During the summer of 1894 or 1805, a scheme w^as inaugu- rated and a company organized under the high sounding name f>f the Manitoba & Gulf Railroad Company fer the purpose of building a link in the proposed railroad from Manitoba to the Gulf of Mexico. The originator of the scheme was a Mr. Carpenter and he had a few others associated with him. They hadn't a dollar capital at their command, but they didn't in- tend to allow a little thing like that to interfere with their enterprise. They started in with as much flourish and parade as though they had millions back of them. Their plan was to organize a local company, get all the subsidies they could, get as much right-of-way as they could, do a little work, and then induce some established company to take the enterprise off their hands.
In Jackson County, Minnesota, they succeeded in securing quite a subsidy, but the people of this county didn't bite worth a cent. They had seen that game before and no subsidies were voted, but the company went on with their survey and com- menced work all the same. Their line w^as through Lloyd, Richland and Superior townships in this county, and in the direction of Jackson, Minnesota. During the summer and fall of 1895 the work was pushed as rapidly as possible under the circumstances. The grading was mostly completed across Richland township and some done in both Lloyd and Superior. Before the year ended the company collapsed beyond .all pos- sibility of resurrection.
In the meantime, a movement had been started to build up a town near the center of Lloyd township. The tract selected was a part of Section 15 and was owned by E. E. Taylor, who
514 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
had it surveyed, platted and ]int on record in tlie summer of 1895. The first name liit upon for tlie new t(.wn was "Trilhy," but upon applying to the department for a postolhee, it was ascertained that there was already one postoffice by that name in Iowa, and so the name Terrill was substituted in its place. A store, bank and hotel and some other buildings were erected this season. Among the first business ventures in the new town Avere the hotel by J. K. Phelps, a dry goods store by C. H. Avery, the Terrill Bank l)y Taylor & Ewert, a hardware store by Sharkey & McISTary. Other branches of business were rep- resented, but when the collapse of the railroad scheme came most of the enterprises were susj)ended for a time or laid oft' altogether. Some of the buildings were moved away and others closed for the time being.
When the officers of the Minneapolis & St. Louis Rail- road were looking up their route from Estherville to Spencer, they decided to make Terrill a point on their line, and to that end utilized a portion of the roadbed of the defunct M.anitoba Company. The first survey was a little east of Terrill, as being nearer in a direct line between Estherville and Spencer, but it was finally decided to make Terrill a point. Mr. Taylor, the town proprietor, donated the right-of-w^ay through the land he w.as interested in and there were others. The road was built in 1899, being the third in the county. Quite a strong effort was made by the business men of Spirit Lake to induce the company to locate through the center of the county, making Spirit Lake and Milford points on the line, but without avail.
Of course, the building of this line gave the town a new lease of life. The old buildings w^ere overhauled and renovated and new and better ones erected. Every line of business com- mon in a country town was soon represented. The town is •situated in the center of one of the best agricultural tracts in the country ,and is peculiarly well located for dealing in farm
TERRILL
515
produce and coal and lumber, and the business in those two lines is away beyond what is ordinarily done in towns of the size of Terrill. Two elevators and two first-class lumber yards find a eood business. The German Lutherans and the Metho- dists have each erected church buildings w^ithin the last tAvo years and the Congregationalists are preparing to erect one in the near future. The first term of school was taught by E. E. Heldridge
The town was incorporated in 1899 and Howard Everett elected the first mayor. For some reason the organization was not completed in time for the town to show up in the census re- turns of 1900. The population of Lloyd township for that year is given as 623. D. M. Shaffer was the first postmaster and .after the building of the railroad he was succeeded by J. C. Blow. The Terrill Ta-ibune was established in 1899 by E. Tay- lor, formerly of the Traer Star-Clipper, and Mr. John Hayden. At the end of the first year, Mr. Hayden bought out Taylor's interest and has since managed it alone and is fast bringing it to the front .as a readable and reliable paper.
Lloyd was the first township in the county to adopt the town- ship school system so strongly advocated by the state superin- tendent. Action in the matter was taken at the spring election in 1901 and a schoolhouse erected the same summer. The schoolhouse is a modern four room building, fully up in appear- ance to those in the larger towns. Three teachers are employed the current winter. So far the scheme has proven highly satis- factory. The experiment will be watched with a deep interest in the other parts of the county. The town has been started so short a time that as yet it can hardly be said to have a his- tory.
CHAPTER XL.
TTIE EARLY SUMMER TOURISTS LIMITED ACCOM- MODATIONS A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE LAKES
EXTRACT FROM GEOLOGICAL REPORT THE
EARLY STOPPING PLACES CRx^NDALL^S LODGE
LILLYWHITE^S LODGE OTHER EARLY STOPPING
PLACES THE ORLEANS HOTEL SPECULATION AS
TO WHY IT WAS TORN DOWN.
IT .WAS early predicted that the lake region would some day become famous as a summer resort. Indeed, that was one of the factors that entered Largely into all of the plans and schemes of the early pioneers and ex- plorers. While the adjoining states of Minnesota and Wiscon- sin are studded with beautiful lakes in all their parts, the state of low.a contains but few and that few for the most part of an inferior and insignificant character, the principal exception be- ing Spirit and Okoboji Lakes. Clear Lake and Storm Lake have each acquired a local celebrity and popularity though much inferior to the lakes of Dickinson County.
The early hunting and fishing have been noticed .at some length. After the building of the Milwaukee roads through Clay and Jackson Counties it came to be a steady thing for a few enthusiastic sportsmen of this and adjoining states to spend a few weeks each year at the various points about the lakes in fishing and bird shooting. Some of the more prominent of these early sportsmen were John Rollins, G. M. Hippee, Senator J. H. Gear (then Governor), G. S. Pray, Ralph Bell, J. G. Berry- hill and several others. At that time there were no places fitted up especially for the entertainment of summer tourists, but
THE EARLY TOURISTS
517
they stopped at tbe primitive hotels and farm houses, and in fact wherever they conkl.
The old Crandall House was a favorite stopping place with many of these old timers. Another favorite point was at M. J. Smith's near the Okoboji Bridge, and still another at W. B. Arnold's. This was back in the early seventies when Algona, Storm Lake and Sibley were the nearest railroad points, and it took lots of endurance, energy and time to make the trip.
After the Milwaukee road was built to Spencer in 1878 there was a visible increase in the number of summer visitors, and the need for more and better accommodations at once became apparent. Up to this time about the only improvements that had been made with the special object in view of accommodat- ing the sunmier tourists were Hunters' Lodge, at the north end of Spirit Lake, built in 1871, .and Lillywhite's Lodge, built about the same time on the southwest shore. As has been be- fore noticed. Hunter's Lodge was at or near the point made historic by being the place where jSI'icollet and Fremont took
BEACH AT hunter's LODGE.
518 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the famous astronomical observation wliicli lias since i^assed into history as the first recorded .account of the Spirit Lake region. Htmter's Lodge of the early days was a different thing from what Grandall's Lodge is at present. But then a descrip- tion is unnecessary. It answered well Che pui'pose for which it was erected. The enthusiastic sportsman here found ideal conditions. Good beds, perfect shelter and tables always groan- ing under the loads of well cooked food are among the pleasant recollections of Hunter's Lodge of the early days. And then the freedom from restraint, the absence of conventionalities and the sense of absolute relief from care and responsibility were perfectly delicious. And then too the immense strings of fish they used to get I ^ot once in a while, but all of the time. In- deed, it h.as been remarked that the ease and readiness with which fish were taken in the early days robbed the sport of its greatest charm.
The north and northeast shore of Spirit Lake, together with Little Spirit Lake, have always been among the most popular of the fishing grounds. The demands of the public soon out- grew the primitive accommodations of the early days and larger and better buildings were erected in their places. A small book- let put out by the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Northern Rail- way Company has the following:
"Spirit Lake has many summer cottages along the shores with a few resorts where visitors .are entertained. The most noted of these is Crandall's Lodge on the northwest shore. This famous place has been identified with Spirit Lake for more than thirty years and has sheltered many hunters and anglers who came here year after year to enjoy the superb hunting and fish- ing. There are none of the restraints of a fashionable summer resort at Crandall's Lodge, but visitors here come to have a good time unhampered by anything that will prevent the fullest enjoyment.
"From time to time additions have been made to the lodge which at present, with the eight cottages surrounding it, has
CRANDALL S LODGE
519
accommodations for seventy-live or eighty people. The beach facing the lodge is the finest on Spirit Lake. It is quite wide, floored with clean, white sands dipping so gently into the water that bathers can go out a great distance before getting beyond their depth. This is the most ^Dopnlar pastime at this resort and the merry shouts of children at play n]ion the sand or sporting in the wafer are heard from morn till night. Bathing- accidents so common at many resorts would seem to be impos- sible here. Boating, sailing, shooting and fishing are also prominent among the outdoor pleasures here. The rooms are large, well furnished and comfortable. The table is supplied with an abundance of well cooked and well served food."
Cr.andall's Lodge is a new building erected on the site of what was formerly kiiDwn as Hunter's Lodge.
Another of the well remembered early day resorts on Spirit Lake is Lillywhite's Lodge at the southwest shore, where now is located the ^Vestside Hotel. Billy Lilly white was a great fa- vorite with the early sportsmen. He was an Englishman and
\IEW UF PARK OF WEST SIDE HOTEL.
520 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
,a baclielor. He bought the place as early as 1872 and soon thereafter erected, what at that time was considered, spacious quarters for the entertainment of itinerant sportsmen. Of course, in the building and arranging of his place he gave ex- pression to his own peculiar ideas and :any one could easily understand that no woman had any part in shaping his plans. He did his own work, was scrupulously neat, and soon his lodge came to be immensely popular. But Billy w.as of a roving dis- position, and after a time this kind of life becamt irksome and monotonous and in 1875 he sold the place which afterwards came into the possession of C. A. Arnold, Esq. Mr. Arnold erected additional buildings, and for several years conducted the place as the ''fWestside Hotel." The original Lillywhite luiilding was destroyed by fire but larger and better ones were erected in its j^lace.
Another place on Spirit Lake which was very popular with those, who in an early day were fortunate enough to obtain ac- comjiiodations there, was Mr. A. Kingman's. Mr. Kingman did not plan his improvements with an idea of accommodating the summer resort business at all, but simply with the view of building a pleasant home. A large munber of the better class of jjeoj^le were clamorous for just the kind of entertain- ment he w.as in position to give, and so at length he yielded to their importunities and for a few weeks each summer opened his house to sunmier visitors, having for his patrons some of tlie best people of the s.tate. After the death of his wife he sold the place to B. F. Stevens.
Samson's Lodge was another of the old time resorts. This was located on the north shore of Spirit Lake across the bay something less than a mile east of Crandall's place. For sev- eral years this was quite a noted i:)lace, but later it lost its prestige and gradually dropped out of notice.
THE ORLEANS HOTEL
521
ORLEANS HOTEL.
The Orleans Hotel comes later in point of time but may as well be noticed here as anywhere. As has been stated the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & ISTorthern Railroad was completed to Spirit Lake in June, 1882. It w.as a part of their original plan to build a large summer hotel in the lake region, and the point selected was on the isthmus between East Okoboji and Spirit Lake, right where the old red mill Avas built twenty-five years before. Their plan was an elaborate one, far too much so to succeed as it afterwards proved. The hotel was completed and thrown open to the public June 16, 1883, with elaborate ceremonies, which were written up for the Beacon in a full and enthusiastic manner. In giving a description of the building at the time it says : ,
"The fine engraving accompanying the sketch gives a fair idea of the outlines and location of the hotel, but it takes figures to show how complete are the accommodations. The dimen- sions of the main building .are three hundred and twenty-four by forty feet, two stories on the east side and a basement on the west end eighty-four feet, making it three stories with an addi- tion sixty by one hundred and twenty feet from the center of
622 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
the house to the railroad track. It contains a spacious dining room fifty by sixty feet. The building is surmounted by nine handsome towers, one on each corner and one over the commo- dious office. The veranda affords a grand promenade three thousand feet long and sixteen feet wide. There are two hun- dred guest rooms all furnished in first-class style Avith annun- ciators, gas, baths .and all modern conveniences. Every room has two doors, one leading to the corridor and the other direct to the veranda.
^'There is a regular postoffice named 'Minnie' close to the hotel. The American Express and ^Vestern Union Companies have offices in the house, ,and there is telephone connection witb the town of Spirit Lake. Of course, there is a laundry, a bil- liard hall, bowling alley, fishing tackle, boats and all minor accommodations in connection with the hotel." * * *
The opening was .a great affair. There was a large company there from Atlanta, Georgia, prominent among whom was Col. E. P. Howell of the Atlanta Constitution. Speeches, toasts and responses were .a feature of the occasion. Among the guests were Capt. C. B. Richards of Fort Dodge, who w.as cap- tain of Company A of Major Williams' command that visited the lakes at the time of the massacre. ]Mr. liichards was called out for a speech and in the course of his remarks said :
"To me it seems like a dream — as though some Aladin had again found his lamp. 'Where I had known the trackless prairie, the almost impassable sloughs and rivers, I now find one of the best built railroads on the continent and a hotel which for comfort, convenience and beauty of location has but few" equals iind no superior east or west, north or south. It seems but a short time since I left Eort Dodge, then the frontier town of the iSTorthwest, with two hundred men, volunteers raised on two hours' notice, to march one hundred miles across an almost treeless and trackless prairie in the inclement month of Marcli with the ground covered with several feet of snow, to rescue from the merciless Sioux the few pioneers who had pushed on beyond the outskirts of civilization. We found here, where are so many happy homes and well cultivated farms, only a few scattered log cabins and the mutilated bodies of every
WHY IT WAS A FAILURE 523
man, woman and child of this then far off and isolated settle- ment. The conntry we came over yesterday in a palace car in four hours then required ten days of weary marching with- out roads or bridges, and instead of .a palatial hotel with every modern comfort and convenience the grove on the lake shore was our only shelter, and the slice of bacon cooked by a camp fire our only subsistence." * * *
Colonel Howell, Governor Boynton, Hon. L. S. Coffin and several others were called out for speeches. Hon. S. L. Dows of Cedar Rapids acted .as presiding officer. So much for the opening of the Orleans Hotel. J. W. Hutchinson, manager of the Lake Park Hotel, at Minnetonka, leased it for a term of years and placed the management in the hands of J. B. Bryant, Esq.
At the time the hotel was built there w^ere several factors that were not sufficiently canvassed. One important one was the variation of the level of the water in the lake. The summer of 1882 is remembered as being the summer of the highest water ever known in the lakes, and that was the summer in which the plans for the hotel were completed. The largest steamers on the lakes had no difficulty in making their trips through the straits and through the narrows, while those on Spirit Lake could approach the shore and make a landing almost anywhere. There was at this time a difference in the level of the two lakes of nearly six feet.
The projectors of the hotel scheme seem to have labored un- der the same delusion that Peters did when he built the old mill, viz., that because there was a difference in the level of the two lakes there must be a water power, and acting on this theory they cleaned out the old race and put in an improved water- wheel and water works for the hotel' in addition supplying the tank for the use of the railroad. But as the water was drawn down in Spirit Lake it didn't fill up .again, and a few dry sea- sons so reduced the supply that the railroad people were forced
524 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
to put in steam power to run tlieir water works. In addition to this the water fell away so that the navigation of East Okohoji had to l)e al).andoned almost entirely.
N'ow one of the most enjoyahle steamboat trijis from the Orleans was one down throngh the narraws and through East Okohoji Lake to the several points on West Okohoji. These trips were popular with the patrons of the hotel and profitable to the steamboat men as well. The entire abandonment of these trips had a visible effect on the hotel patronage. It is an open question whether the hotel would for years have made any great money for the compam^ had rlie navigation remained as wdien the hotel w.as built, an<l with the failure of it the case was hopeless.
Again, the shore of Spirit Lake was very shelving and the water at an almost uniform depth for .a long distance out, thus furnishing an ideal bathing place .at the proper stage of water. A substantial dock had been built opposite the hotel, and as the water receded this dock was left high and dry, and long trestles had to l3e built out into the lake to effect) a landing.
It has already been noticed that the lakes reached their highest level in 1882, and their lowest in 1898. The difference at these two dates approximates eight feet. It was in 1882 that the project for building the hotel w,as decided on, and it was in 1898 that it was decided to tear it down. Had the level of the lakes been in 1882 where it was in 1898 it is not probable the hotel would have been built. Had it been in 1898 where ic was in 1882 in all probability it would not have been torn down. The mistake made by the railroad people was in not investigating tliesie conditions more carefully. When 'they made their plans they seem to have gone on the theory that the level of the lakes would remain iiermanent, where it then was, and when in 1898 it reached its loAvest level thev seem to have
WHY IT WAS A FAILURE 525
,'dcceptecl the thtM^rv that the lakes were drving up and would soon be a thing of the past.
Doubtless minor considerations had something to do with the. decision to al)andon the hotel. In the first place their plans were too elaborate and expensive for the conditions existing at that time. There was no demand for anything of the kind. The .accommodations, and the service contemplated, were on a scale that required a rich and aristocratic patronage, and the prices were of the same high order. Possibly the money panic through which the country had so recently passed may have had something to do in checking the existing extravagance and enforcing a more rigid economy as well among summer tourists as others. At any rate the hotel didn't pay and as a conse- quence Avas ordered torn down.
The idea seems to have been ])r()niulgated by a certain class of papers, both in this and adjoining states, that the Orleans Hotel was closed up and forced out of business by the radical prohibition sentiment existing among the people at that time. A brief consideration of the subject will show how silly and senseless that claim is. In the first place the railroad people knew what the law was as well when they built the hotel as when they tore it down, and in the meantime the Law had been greatly modified to meet just such cases. They also knew the prohibition sentiment of the people of the county, inasmuch as the proposed prohibition amendment to the constitution had just received in this county a vote of more than two to one in it? favor. It is no secret' that the Orleans Hotel was one of the places had in mind by the committee that decided on the pro- visions of the so-called mulct law.
There was a popular demand that the laAv be so modified that places of this character be allowed to supply the legitimate demands of their patrons .and customers in a legal way and without laying themselves liable to criminal prosecution. Many.
526 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
who bad no use for the open saloon so far waived their preju- dices as to sign a consent petition that never would have dope so under any other circumstances, and it is idle to claim that the radical views of the people on the prohibition question drove the Orleans Hotel out of business. It would be just as sensible to claim that the "witches" that used to ride Old Peters' water- wheel were still haunting the place .and casting their baleful spells over every enterprise inaugurated in that locality. The improvements at Templar Park are noticed elsewhere. With the exception of Templar Park the holdings of J. S. Polk, of Des Moines, and B. F. Stevens, of St. Louis, monopolize the entire west shore of Spirit Lake from the isthmus to the state line.
CHAPTER XLI.
KESORTS ON WEST OKOBOJI ARNOLd's PARK ITS
GROWTH VARIETY OF ENTERTAINMENT THE
ANNUAL SHOOTING TOURNAMENT MILLER^S BAY
THE POPULAR FISHING GROUND THE OBSERVA- TORY THE HIGHEST LAND IN IOWA WHAT PRO- FESSOR MACBRIDE SAYS OF IT SMITHES POINT
OKOBOJI BRIDGE SOME OF THE EARLY VISITORS
THE BOTANY CLASS OF THE STATE UNIVERSITY
THE OKOBOJI POSTOFFICE THE LATER RE- SORTS ON WEST OKOBOJI MANHATTAN BEACH
THE INN GILLEy's BEACH HAYWARD^S BAY
pike's point BROWNELL^S BEACH EGRAL-
HARVE WILLOW SPRING FARM POCAHONTAS
POINT PILLSBURy's POINT.
HE EARiLY stopping places on IVVest Okoboji were Ar- nold's Park, 'Miller's Bay and Smith's Cottage. Ar- nold's Park is on the site of the first improvements in the county made subsequent to the massacre, made by J. S. Prescott in the summers of 1857 and 1858. Some five or six years later the residence was destroyed by fire and Pres- cott moved another building about sixteen by twenty feet in size and one story high on the same site where he was living when he sold out to Blake & Arnold. This one story, one roomed house was a famous stopping place in the early days. ]^o matter how much they were crowded "Wet" could always find room for one more. The low banks, sandy shore, clear water and adjacent grove made this .a famous camping place long l^efore a summer resort was thought of.
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DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
ARNOLD'S PARK HOTEL FROM THE BEACH,
'Well, as summer Imsiness began to develop and summer vis- itors commenced making their annual trips "in search of sport and western game," Arnold commenced l)nil(liiig ""lie knew not Avhat." 'Whenever his business demanded an additional build- ing he put it up wherever there was room for it regardless of plats OT plans. He commenced building about 1873 and has kept it u}) at pretty regular intervals ever since, until he has quite a village all his own. Anything and everything that tends to attract and interest a promiscuous crowd is found here in abundance. The hotel proper with the cottages furnish accom- modations for from two to three hundred guests and on occasion by a little crowding more can be cared for. Arnold's Park is coming to be the "storm center" for excursions over the Mil- waukee road, which are every year growing in number, magni- tude and popularity.
The amusements for which facilities are afforded are man}' and varied. A large pavilion with a roomy stage, ,and a thous-
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and chairs, furnishes facilities for pu])lic gatherings of evcrv kind. Sermons, lectures, concerts, theatricals and dancing par- ties alternate witb each other in pretty regular succession, al- though the dancing parties .are usually somewhat in the lead. Boating, bathing and fishing are the a^'qyatic sports provided for. Steamers, sailboats and rowboats are at the dock every hour in the day. Here also is the highest toboggan slide ever erected in the lake region. The person who never went down a toboggan slide into the water below has missed a very exciting experience. When first introduced they were a great fad, but of late have attracted less attention.
Pool, billiards and tenpins are largely indulged in, to say nothing of the more questionable and exciting games. It is a cosmopolitan company that annually meets here for their sum- mer vacation. Here the zealous young preacher, who con- scientiously bears the burden of looking after the spiritual welfare of his flock, "touches elbows" Avith the flashily dressed
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"sporting man'' who is always, ready to "buck the tiger" on occasion, while lawyers, doctors, editors, traveling men and college professors help to swell tlie crowd.
Of the many events yearly' "pulled oft"" at the park none are more popular or attract 'more attention fh^n the annual shooting tonrnament, where trials of skill in live hird an<l tra]) shoot- ing are arranged and the celebrities in tlnft lim' from all parts of America, meet here- to contest for trophies and champion- ships. Fred Gilbert, who h^s won more prizes in this line and captured more trophies and^ held them longer than any other person living, was a Dickinson County boy and one of the products of the "pioneer .days" and it is related of him that he a('([iiirt'(l Ills amazing skilk as ,a "wing shot'" by shooting l)lack- birds in his father's cornfield when a mere "kid" of from eight to twelve years of age. His great advantage lies in his wonder- ful celerity or quickness of aim, and as before stated this quick- ness was acquired in shooting blackbirds in the early days whan they were a great nuisance.
Miller's Bay is another of the old time favorite camping grounds, ^liller was one of the first settlers on the west side of ^Vest Okoboji Lake, and his place was situated just right to form an ideal camping ground. Like many others. Miller's accommodations at first consisted of only a farm house, and a small one at that, Init ])arties who were partial to th.at side of the lake so importuned him that he finally erected accommo- dations consisting of office, dining room and sleeping rooms for a limited number, where he entertained substantially the same old crowd year after year, winning deserved popularity. He afterwards laid off a large number of lake shore lots under the name of West Okoboji
Miller's Bay is popularly supposed to be the finest fishing ground about the lakes. iWest Okoboji is known to be by far the deepest of the lakes and the bottom the roughest and most
miller's bay
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miller's bay.
uneven ; that is, there are places where it drops off abruptly from a depth of thirty or forty feet to nearly two hundred. This peculiarity is more marked in th.at part of the lake be- tween Fort Dodge Point and Miller's B.ay than anyhere else, and these pools or deep places in the bottom of the lake are sup- posed to keep up the supply of fish after the shallower places are exhausted.
Overlooking- Miller's B,ay from the west on what is known as the Willow Spring Farm, is a high hill or mound claimed by some to be the highest land in Iowa. On the top of this mound a kind of observatory has been erected and the place pointed out to the summer tourists as the highest point between the "Alle- ghanies" and the " Rockies." An amusing incident is related of the captain of one of the early steamers, who by the way, although one of the best fellows in the world, was ,a little inclined to be pompous and conse-
534 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
qnential in his manner. At that time trips from the Orleans down throngh ^ast Okoboji and over into West Okoboji were very popular. On one occasion a party of intelligent ladies and gentlemen were making the trip when one of the men, notic- ing the obseiwatory, ,asked the captain ,what it was and what it meant. The captain at onoe struck a dramatic attitude and answered somewhat pompously: "That, ladies and gentlemen, is the highest point of land in Iowa, seventeen thousand feet high, ladies and gentlemen." This so amused the gentleman that Avhen he repeated it to his companions they conspired to put up a job on the captain by each in turn dropping into con- versation with him and casually .asking some question about the observatory, and to each he had the same stereotyped reply, "That is the highest point in Iowa, seventeen thousand feet high, ladies and gentlemen."
This mound, too, was the place pointed out to the unsophis- ticated summer tourist ,as the grave of Okoboji, and many a sen- timental scribbler has exhausted his stock of adjectives and adverbs in writing high sounding homilies over the pile of sand and gravel which was pointed out to him .as the grave of th^ mythical chieftain.
'Now as to what in truth is the highest point in Iowa, there is some difference of opinion. ;What may or may not be the highest point about the lakes is uncertain, but the preponder- ance of testimony is in favor of a high peak in a cluster of knobs near the northeast corner of section one, in Lakevilte township. Tliere are several other points of about the same altitude, but none of them .are as high as some points in Os- ceola County. Prof. T. H. MacBride, in his report on the geol- ogy of Dickinson and Osceola Counties, discusses this point very entertainingly. He says :
"The most remarkable of all these hills, a beautiful object in itself, and by far the most elegant illustration of its type,
smith's point 535
is the long time famous Ocheyedan* mound. This is a prairie mountain, a precipitous mound or peak, rising at last abruptly from the general surrounding level. It is situated in the south- west one-fourth of the southwest one-fourth of section 12, in township 99, range 40, west, on the east bank of the Ocheyedan Valley, and about one mile southeast of Ocheyedan town. One hundred and seventy feeit above the valley flood-plain, and at least twenty feet higher than any surrounding land, it has long been a landmark ,and is visible at their homes to hundreds of citizens of Osceola County. The height above sea level, as estimated from data furnished by railway surveys, is not far from 1,670 feet, one of the highest points in Iowa, its only rival the summit of the moraine in Wilson township northwest of Allendorf, which has probably about the same elevation."
Another of the early day camping grounds which was very popular was at the crossing of the straits between East and West Okoboji. This was known as Smith's Point. All of the north and south travel through the county converges at this point, it being the only place for fully three miles either east iOY west that the lakes can be crossed. Here was erected the first bridge built in the county. Previous to the bridges people crossed as they could. At the first election the boys from the north side of the straits swam over and those who couldn't swim, paddled themselves across on poles or chunks of wood. ]\[ost of the teaming at that time was done by ox teams and many of them soon learned as soon as they reached the water to strike for the other side without anv 'hesitation. iWliere the couplings of the wagon were properly secureil and the box lashed to the running gear, if the box was reasonably .tight and the driver level headed, a team that understood theiji- business would cross and make a landing on the opposite side without danger of accident. The distance they had to swim was about
*Pronounced O-chee-dan ; Nicollet has this to say : "Otcheyedan — a name derived from a small hill, the literal meaning of which is ' the spot where they cry'; alluding to the custom of the Indians to repair to elevated situations to weep over their dead relatives."— Nicollet, Report of the Upper Mississippi River, etc., p. 2".
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thirty feet. The strait was something over two hundred feet wide, but was fordable except the thirty feet in the center.
The first bridge was .a footbridge, made of small logs flat- tened on one side and laid on trestles. After this was one with trestles strong enough to bear a team. On these were laid stringers and these stringers covered with ten foot plank. In the fall of 1860 came the county bridge. In 1873 M. J. Smith erected a dwelling house afterwards pretty well known as Sniitir.s C(;ttage.
At this time nobody comprehended what the summer resort business was to be in the near futurei, and everyone planned his building to suit his own taste or convenience, regardless of what the public might demand hereafter, and Smith's Cot- tage was planned and built without any thought of its being opened as a summer resort, but the convenience of the location, together with its natural attractions, early made it a favorite stopping place for many of the prominent people of the state. The late Senator Gear, who was an enthusiastic sportsman and very skillful wdth the rod, spent some time here every fall duriue; his term of office as Governor. He was invariablv accompanied by his wife and usually one or more of the state officers. Judge Given also in an early day spent his annual vacation in camj3 at Okoboji. Before the era of cottages or railroads, he, in company with a large party of friends .and congenial spirits, used to come here, bringing with them their tents and camping outfit. Usually they pitched their camp "on the brow of the hill" overlooking Okoboji bridge, where
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they established headquarters, and untrammeled by the con- ventionalities which' Kave come to be a part of the life of the more recent years, they gave themselves up for the time being to the enjoyment of the rest and change their surroundings afforded.
638
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
RUSTIC BRIDGE — DES MOINES BEACH IN DISTANCE — LOOKING EAST.
Judge Given exhibited the same qualities of iutelligence and good sense in arranging and managing a summer camp that he has always manifested in other matters. He has the happy faculty of making every man, woman and child with whom he comes in contact believe he is their pai^ticular per- sonal friend, and the consequence is there isn't a "kid" in the whole lake region but thinks the Judge is about the great- est man in Iow,a, and, by the way,, the Judge seems to enjoy this kind of popularity fully as much as he does the laurels he won on the field or tlie honors that have since been accorded him on the bench.
In 1885 'M. J. Smith laid off some lake shore lots and offered them for sale under the name of Okoboji Park. Judge Given
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was the first to purchase one of these lots and one of the first to build ,a cottage thereon, and it was in this way that the place came to be known as "Given's Point." George Dimmit of Des Moines built the first cottage at Okoboji. Tlhat year and the next several Des Moines parties purehased lots and built on them, and have in the main occupied them ever since, al- though some changes have occurred .and it was for this reason the place came to be known as "Des Moines Beach."
In like manner Fort Dodge Point received its name. A party of some six or eight prominent citizens of Fort Dodge purchased grounds, laid off lots and built cottages in close proximity, thus forming a community of their own, and the place has since been known ,as Fort Dodge Point.
A movement is now on foot to interest the authorities of the State University in the project of founding here a summer school, which shall serve as a kind of annex or auxiliary to that institution. The scheme was originated by Prof. T. H. MacBride, of the chair of botany. An Iowa City correspond- ent of the Des Moines Capital, under date of July 27, 1901, writes of the enterprise as follows :
^^STUDEXTS AND TEACHERS OF THE STATE UNIVERSITY GO TO THE "eaKES to study the flora and fauna THERE.
"Iowa City, July 27. — Iowa's first summer school of botany held under the auspices of the State University of Iowa, will open at Lake Okoboji Monday. At 8:30, o'clock last night a party of students, twenty in number, with teachers, left Iowa City for Lake Okoboji, the headquarters of the summer school, the party having leased cottages in that locality. They took with them a large equipment of t?ie finest microscopes, reagents, etc., leaving behind no paraphernalia necessary to fit out a laboratory that Avould do credit to a university of pretension.
"Those of the party who intend to become teachers of bot- any will prepare at Okoboji sets of material th.at will be of especial value in -their chosen field of work. Lake Okoboji is particularly rich in aquatic plants, and at the same time pos-
OKOBOJI POSTOFFICE 541
sesses the addition.al desirableness of having a rare combina- tion of prairie, timber and water conditions that will appeal with force to botanists in search of good material. Thci school will last two weeks and will bei in charge of Prof. B. Shimek. Dr. T. H. MacBride, now engaged in working for the state geological survey, will visit the school for ,a brief time. The experiment will be watched with interest by university people and upon the result depends the establishment of a per- manent summer botanical school of the universitv."
This experiment, if successful, will mean much to Okoboji and Dickinson County. Smith's Cottage is for the time being the headquarters of this experimental school. Whether it will "jnm out" as bright as its friends now anticipate remains to be determined..
Smith's Bay is the most perfectly land locked harbor on the lake, and most of the steamers have their coal docks here, which at times gives the place quite a lively appearance. It is also winter quarters for most of the steamers on West Okoboji.
As has been before noticed, the Okoboji postoffice was es- tablished in the sj)ring of 1859, with G. H. Bush, Esq., post- master. He was succeeded the following summer by M. J. Smith, who held it for several years, when he in turn was suc- ceeded by J. W. O'Farrell. There was a great deal more work than pay about the office at that time and nobody wanted it. Along about 1880, or a little before, E. A. Case built a small store and put in a stock of goods in the grove south of the Okoboji bridge, and was appointed postmaster ,at the time. Previous to this time the office had been kept in private homes, but from this time on it was kept in public places. A few years later Case moved to Milford and S. E. Mills was appointed postmaster. About this time Mr. Mills erected a store build- ing and put in ,a stock of groceries and camp supplies. Mills Brothers were the first to make a regular business of furnishing
542
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
boats, bait and fishing tackle for visiting sportsmen. They at once set to work to collect a fleet of boats, and \)\ dint of build- ing some and buying the rest, they soon had one of the most com- plete fleets of fishing boats ever 'put on the lake.
About this time the roller skate cr.aze ^broke out and every place must have its skating rink. A young Norwegian by the name of Louis Kellsen thought to make his fortune by putting in a skating rink. He accordingly effected an arrangement with Mr. Mills whereby they were to erect a suitable building, the basement of which Mills was to occupy as a boat house, while the upper story Mr. Kellsen was to operate as a skating rink. The building was erected and they started in all right, but the skating craze collapsed just about as sudden as it sprung up, and Mr. Kellsen found himself with his rink and several dozen pairs of roller skates on hand. These he finally disposed of to Mr. Mills for much less than they cost him. Mr. Mills parti-
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MANHATTAN BEACH
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tioned off the skating room and moved the postoffiee and store business into the front room, while the rear he used for storing and painting boats, for which it was well adapted. About 1888 he sold out to 'W. S. Wilson & Sons, who continued the same line of business, enlarging and improving it to meet the grow- ing demands of their trade. Mr. Wilson was also appointed postmaster, which position he still retains.
The later resorts on |West Okoboji are Manhattan Beach, The Inn, Omaha Beach, Hayw.ard's Bay and Pike's Point, at each of which places accommodations more or less elaborate have been provided for the entertainment of summer tourists.
Manhattan Beach is situated on the west shore of West Oko- boji Lake, north of Miller's B,ay. The project of making a summer resort of this point was first conceived by D. B. Lyon, Esq., of Des jMoines, about 1893. He iirst purchased a large tract of land having more than a mile of lake shore, and through his efforts a joint stock company was organized. A long line of lake shore lots was laid out and put on the market. Cottages were erected and a large pavilion built with dining room, office and other conveniences requisite for a fashionable resort. A roomy bathhouse and toboggan slide were among the
HOTEL MANHATTAN, LAKE OKOBOJI.
544 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
attractions. The old steamer, Ben Lennox, was purckased and thoroughly overhauled ,and the name changed to the "Manhat- tan," and it was run so as to make all the trains .at the Arnold's Park station in the interests of the hotel. Another steamer, a flat bottomed sternwheeler, which was built at Spirit Lake and named the "Kobert Williams," was also bought with the intention of running her between Spirit Lake and the Okoboji bridge, there to connect with the ' 'Manhattan." But somehow none of their schemes panned out as planned. Both of the steamers, which were old, when they bought them, rotted down on their hands, and none of their projects proved profitable. The lots didn't sell and the hotel didn't pay. It was too far from the railroad and it cost too much to run it. The expenses exceeded the income and the whole concern went into the hands of a receiver, and the property sold for what it would bring.
A new company has since been organized on a more econom- ical basis with a view of running matters more nearly in accord- ance with business principles. They have erected several new buildings and repaired, renovated and refurnished the old ones, and made other needed improvements, until the place ranks with the finest resorts about the lakes. The location is a cKarm- ing one, combining luxuriant shade, sandy beach, rocky slion*, clear water and cool breezes to a very enjoyable extent.
One of the best known and most popular places on West Oko- boji was first known .as Maple Orove and next as Bennett's Beach, and later as Dixon's Beach. About 1882 Dixon sold out to the railroad company, or rather to a company composed of a few of the railway ofiicials and a few outsiders who con- ceived the idea of building up a great summer resort at the railroad company's expense. Their scheme was to pocket the profits while the railroad company paid the bills. The death of President Mitchell and Superintendent Merrill both occur- ring about this time, the management of the road was thrown
DIXON S BEACH
545
EARLY DAY CAMP ON DIXON'S BEACH.
into the hands of other people who were not in the scheme, and would not, therefore, derive any direct benefit from its success, and they absolutely refused to have anything to do with it, consequently the scheme was abandoned and the parties left to unload their land as best they could.
In the course of a few years, .after various vicissitudes, the property came into the hands of J. A. Beck, Esq., an experi- enced hotel man from Fairfield, Iowa, who at once set to work to perfect plans for a first-class summer resort. The location is an ideal one. For many years "Dixon's Beach" was known as one of the finest in Iowa. It has few equals and no superiors. It was in 1896 that Mr. Beck commenced improvements on the place as a summer resort. Previous to that time he had erected cottages .and farm buildings and made other improve- ments in a general way, and that year Ije built "The Inn," and
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548 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
has since continued to add to the original structure until he has succeeded in producing one of the most unique and popular resorts in the whole lake region. One of the recent Burlington, Cedar Rapids & ISJ'orthern Railroad advertising circulars speaks of "The Inn" as follows:
"On the eastern shore of the lake, towering over Dixon's Beach, stands 'The Inn/ a fine new summer hotel of eighty rooms, all facing the water, and open to the deliciously cool and refreshing breezes that come across from the southern and western shores. 'The Inn' is equipped with a splendid shore- built pavilion, and for bathing the beach immediately in front has not its equal on the lake. The social life of Okoboji cen- ters at 'The Inn,' with its excellent orchestra and the season witnesses many delightful society events."
In addition to the foregoing many of the more desirable points about the lakes, and more especially about West Oko- boji, have been purchased and platted and lots offered for sale, and on most of them improvements of greater or less magni- tude have been made. In some cases pavilions, dining rooms and other facilities for the entertainment of summer visitors have been provided. Prominent in this catalogue are Gilley'< Beach, Hayward's B,ay, Pike's Point, Brownell's Beach, Poca- hontas Point, Omaha Beach, Egralharve and possibly some others.
Gilley's Beach is the headquarters of quite a colony of peo- ple from Carroll County, prominent among whom are Willia-m Gilley, ^V. L. Culbertson, C. E. Townsend, R. E. Coburn, Wil- liam Trowbridge and several others. Mr. Gilley was the orig- inator and promoter of the%cheme. As early as 1894 he pur- chased a piece of lake shore property on the east side and pretty well toward the south end of iWest Okoboji Lake, and laid it off in lots under the name of Gilley's Beach. These lots he disposed of to his friends and neighbors, until there is quite a colony of them who have erected neat cottages on their lots
GILLEY S BEACH
549
and who come up annually to spend their summers. So far they have made no move toward the erection of buildings for the accommodation of the general public, and it is not under- stood that such is a part of their plan, the idea being to provide suitable facilities whereby a company of congenial spirits cau enjoy their summer vacation in their ow^n way without any possibility of being annoyed by the many objectionable features Avhich are so often prevalent at the summer resorts, and for this purj)ose no more charming place could be found in the lake re-
gion.
William Bascom's place on Minnie IVVashta is another point which of late has Avon deserved popularity as a place where can be fi mud neat and quiet accommodations for a limited num- ber of guests in search of rest and recreation, who- dislike the turmoil and excitement of the larger and more prominent places.
OKOBOJI CEMETERY AND MINNIE WASHTA.
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DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Il.ayward's Bay, aiiotlier charuiing location, is on the eas*: side of West Okoboji, nearly two miles north of The Inn. This place was originally known as Palmer's Bay, bnt some years since it became the jjroperty of Mr. William Hay ward of Spirit Lake, who surveyed and platted a portion of it in lake shore lots. With the people of Spirit Lake this is the most popular point on West Okoboji, and many of them have purchased lots and erected cottages there and spend a portion of each sum- mer enjoying the rest and change afforded by an outing on the sandy shores of Hay ward's Bay.
Pike's Point, north of Hayward's Bay, was purchased and laid off by Baum and Patterson, of Oinaha, in the early nineties. They erected a spacious pavilion and dining room and built several cottages, and for a few seasons business w.as rushing with them. It was they who introduced the toboggan slide, they being the first to erect one about the lakes as a means of recreation for the summer tourists. After a few seasons busi- ness at this resort rather flagged, and finally it was neglected altogether. Bnt for all this, it is a charming location.
North of Pike's Point is Brownell's Beach. Dr. E. L, Brownell, of Spirit Lake, owns over half a mile of lake shore.
MINOR KKSOKTS
551
pike's point.
which he proposes in the near future to throw open to tlie pub- lic. As yet the only improvements made thereon are a few pri- vaite cottages, but as the demand for cottage lots increases hi? will doubtless offer his for sale, many of which rank with the choicest in the lake region.
Egralharve is the location of the famous mineral spring. This place is the property of G. A. Badgerow, of Sioux City. The location is a charming one, the grounds being tastefully laid out and well kept. The place owes its celebrity to a large mineral spring. This spring is located nearly half a mile from the lake shore, from which point the water is brought dov/n in iron pipes to the basin and fountain erected on the grounds ]jy the proprietor. 'What makes this the more remarkable is that the prairie region about there is devoid of springs of any kind, and this one breaking out as it does with such a munifi-
552 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
cent flow excites the surprise of every newcomer. The a]inly~i.s of the water shows the component parts to be very similar to those of the famous springs at Waukesha, Wisconsin.
Willow Spring Farm at the west side of Miller's Bay has long been a favorite stopping place for, a limited number of summer tourists. Like many other favorite stopping places this is not a hotel but a farm house, which has long been famous for the hospitality and good cheer which is generously extended to .all newcomers. It has many interesting associations and F-nrrnun. dings. Here is located the celebrated mound and ob- servatory so often pointed out as the highest point in Iowa, and also as the burial place of the mythical chieftain "Okoboji."
Pocahontas Point, situated on Brown's Bay, on the southwest sliore of West Okoboji, is another of the choice locations for which that lake is famed. Back in the early eighties, when the different railroad companies were prospecting this region with a view to building in here, the .attorney for the Rock Island road, in company with ^Mr. Bruce, of Pocahontas County, bought the old John Brown place for that company, and after the author- ities of the road abandoned the project of building up here at that time, the land went into the hands of others from Pocahon- tas County and soon after came to be known as Pocahontas Point.
Within the Last few years quite a respectable village of sum- mer cottages has grown up at and about Pillsbury's Point. A company of I)es Moines capitalists organized what is known as the South Beach Company and purchased several desirable locations, a portion of Avhich they have laid off and platted as cottage lots. On many of these lots some of the finest summer cottages about the lakes have been erected. Judge Given also purchased quite a tract which he laid out and platted, but in- stead of offering the lots for sale he has erected cottages on many of them which he leases to the families of summer tour-
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554
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
ists. ITc already has some eiglit or ten wliidi lie leases that way, and proposes building more in ilie near fiilure. Tlio ])lace was known as Pillsbiiry's Point loiii; lu't'ore any cottages were built, and is bcttei- known hy that n,ame now than any other. Attempts have at ditferent times, been jnade to adopt a more high sounding name, as "Cass Bay," "C^rescent Beach," and possibly some others, but so far witliout success. This is a pan of the old Gardner j^lace of the pioneer clays. Here is located the old log cabin wiiich Avas the residence of the familv of Bow- hind (lardner at the time of the massacre of 1857. Of the h.alf dozen cabins bnilt previous to that time, this is the only one preserved. Here is located tlie monniuenl i-rected by the state and dedicated to the niemoi-y of the victims of the only In- dian massacre ever joerpetrated in Iowa. Here was enacted ihe bloodiest itragedy ri?corded in Iowa liistoi'v. Hundreds of visitors every summer make pilgrim.ages to this historic s])ot to listen to the uni(]U(! and tragic story of the sole survivor of this terrible tragedy, and after listening to the heart rending recital they feel that tlie greatest woiuler is tliat she is there to tell it.
SCENE ON BROWNELL'S BEACH.
CHAT IKK XlJl.
I'-A K M K Iv'S ' ( ) IM i A .\ 1 /AT 1 ( ) X S T 1 1 K DICK INSOIS
COrXTV AciK'K ri.l riv'Al. SOCIKTV 'I'llK (.JU'ANGE
TJIK FAIJMKU'S' AI.LIAM'K KAItMKUs' INSTI-
ri'TKS Till-: DICKIXSOX ('OITNTY 1''A1:MK1{s' MU-
TlAl, IXSIIUAXCK COMl'AXV ^A FEW STATISTICS
oi- TllK (ilv'OWTll OI'" rilK <'<)L;NTY A FULL LIST
(tj- rilK ('Ol'.XTV ol'l'K'Klv'S ro TlIK I'RKSKNT TIME
STATE AND 1 )ISli; !( "1' oi' I'K ' ilU'S K r,K( 'TK1> AM>
AIM'OIX ri'.n KKOM THIS COUNTY.
TIvS'J' :iii(l lasL scvcriil (>ri;.;iiii/.;it ions luivc lu'cii ])('rtV('tc(l with llio avowed object of proiiiotiiii;- llic ai^ricultural iii- tcM'csts (if the eouiity. At loasl llial was given as the ostcnsiMo I'casoii for ihciv existence. Tlic^ first of these was tlie Diekiiisoii ('oimty Agi-ieiill ural Society, which Avas or- ganized in the siiimiier of l.'^TI, with R. A. Smith, pri'sith'iit, R. L. Wilcox, secretary, and a hoard of directors of one from each townshi]) in tlie county. An agricnitnral fair was held at Spirit Lake on tlie nineteenth (hiy of October, ISTl, which was a decided success in its way, especially if measured by tlic Zealand interest manifested by its promoters. Tire society was kept u]) some three or four years, but the comiiig of the g'rass- bo|)|)ers in 1S7'>, and the four y(>ars destruction (d" the crops whicli f(dlowed, so demoralized the agricultural interests of the cnnnty tliat tlie annnal fairs wow abandoned and tli<' Dick- inso7i County Agricultural Society went out of existence. One or two attempts have since been made, and meetings called with the object in view of reviving the old organization or form- ing a new one, but nothing ever canu' of tiiem.
556 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
The Granges represent the next move on the part of the agri- culturists to build up a farmers' organization. Their story has been told in connection with that of the civic societies of th^ several towns where located and need not be repeated. After the passing of the Grange, came the Farm-ers' Alliance. Their story is soon told. So long as they confined their efforts to the legitimate objects for which they were organized they enjoyed a good degree of prosperity, but when the management fell into selfish and incompetent hands, agricultural interests were neg- lected and the leaders endeavored to use the organization for per- sonal and partisan ends, it became unpopular, and soon was numbered with the things that were but are not.
The Farmers' Alliance was succeeded by the Farmers' In- stitute. This institution sprang up suddenly and became im- mensely popular at once, and bids fair to remain one of the permanent institutions of the county. The first one was held at Superior, February 21 and 22, 1895. The first move for a Farmers' Institute in this county seems to have originated with the citizens of Superior and others in the eastern portion of the county, and to them belongs the credit of making the first start in that direction. An association was formed, of which W. F. Taylor was president, and H. D. Cole, secretary. Hienry Wallace was the principal speaker and conductor of the Insti- tute, and succeeded in inspiring a good degree of interest and enthusiasm. The first meetings seem to have been somewhat informal, but a regular organization was effected at the meet- ing at Spirit Lake March 10 and 11, 1897. Since the first ses- sions have been held at Spirit Lake, Milford and Lake Park, and at each place with marked success.
There are several reasons why, in the nature of things, the Farmers' Institute is of far more value to the agricultural in- terests than anything that preceded it. In the first place, the organization is simplicity itself, and can be readily adapted to
farmers' institutes 557
any and all conditions. The tendency of the old time fair to degenerate into a horse race, and a poor one at that, nearly des- troyed its usefulness in any other direction. Horse racing may be all right enough, but it should be worked in a class by itself. The Grange proved too expensive in both time and money. Its organization was too complex for the purpose for which it was intended, and it gradually died out. The Spirit Lake Grange maintained its organization much longer than any other in this part of the state, but finally passed out of existence. The tendency of the Alliance was to run into politics, and to stim- ulate its members to try to get something for nothing. ]^one of these objections can be urged against the Farmers' Insti- tute. On the contrary, the Institute has proven the most eco- nomical and satisfactory channel yet devised for the interchang- ing of ideas, and comparing experiences along the line of agri- cultural development.
The Dickinson County Farmers' Mutual Insurance Com- pany was organized in January, 1890, but no policies were written until the following June. The first officers were : Pres- ident, U. I. Bruns ; Vice-President, Don B. Smith ; Secretary, J. W. Hagerty ; Treasurer, P. Rasmussen ; and a board of direc- tors consisting of one person from each township. But two poli- cies were written the first year, the first one being in favor of J. R. Leman, afterwards president of the company. At first the growth was slow .and the business light, but about 1894 it commenced to increase, and since that time it has steadily grown in volume, until by the middle of 1901 the risks carried by this company aggregated nearly half a million dollars and Avere rapidly increasing. The present officers are: President. J. R. Leman ; Vice-President, S. A. Winey ; Secretary, H. Van Steenburg; Treasurer, Don B. Smith.
The Farmers' Mutual is proving a most effectual barrier against the oppressive exactions formerly practiced by the old
558
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
line companies and is rapidly lirowinij;- in public favor. It is claimed by the representatives of the old line companies that they are not making .any money in Iowa, and that it is impos- sible for them to make any under the present insurance laws of the state. I^ow, this may be true, but it is also true that the farmers' mutnals where honestly and economically managed furnish equally safe and satisfactory protection and at less thau half the cost. Of course this applies strictly to farm in- surance. The question of town insurance is .a different and far more difficult problem.
It will hardly be desirable, even if it were possible, to fol- low the details of the county history through the later years of its growth. In comparing figures with those of other coun- ties, the fact must be borne in mind that Dickinson County has the smallest .area of land of any county in the state. While the area of a standard Iowa county is sixteen town- ships, or five hundred and seventy-six sections, this count}' has but twelve townships, four of which are fractional on the state line and not full size. The total area of the county is three hun- dred and twenty-one sections, about ten per cent of wdiich is occupied by lakes, or about half the area of a standard county. This fact should be remembered AVhen comparing the figures or statistics of this county with those of others.
'Statistics are usually voted drv and uninteresting, and it is not deemed worth the trouble to give more tlian is necessary to show in a general way the gradual growth and development of the county. The population of the county at the several periods mentioned are from the official census reports. Dick- inson County first appeared in the census returns in 1859. Ths figures from that date to the present are as follows :
|
1859 |
1860 |
1863 |
1865 |
1867 |
1869 |
1870 |
1873 1875 |
1880 |
1885 |
1890 |
1895 |
1900 |
|
131 |
180 |
189 |
300 |
509 |
582 |
1389 |
1743 1748 |
1901 |
3315 |
4328 |
6025 |
7995 |
A FKW STATISTICS 555^
Al the tirst lilaiice it would seem that there is a manifest error in the fig-ures for 1S()1», the percentage of growth from that year to the next being so muck greater than at any othei- period, hut then the census of 1869 was taken by the .assessor and was based on the population at the first of January of that year, while that of 1870 was taken by the United States com- missioner and shows the population on the first of June of that year, so that nearly a year and a half elapsed between the two enumerations. 1809 and 1870 were the years in wliich the government land was being- taken so rapidly by homesteaders, v/hich accounts for the percentage of gTOw^th being so much more then than at any other time. \With this explanation one can understand that the figures for both years may be substan- tially correct.
The total area of taxable land in the county exclusive of town lots, is 235,206 acres. The adjusted actual value of lands and town lots for 1900 was $5,939,767, wbh-ih being assessed at 25 per cent of its actual value, makes the taxable value of real estate for that year, $1,484,892. The taxable value of the rail- roads in the county for that year was $149,365, and of personal property $276,120, thereby making the total taxable valuation of the county for that year $1,910,317, and the adjusted actual value $7,641,268.
. Since the first organization of the county in 1857 the offices have been filled as follows:
County Judge: 1857 to 1858, O. C. Howe; 1858 to 1862, Ueonidas Congleton ; 1862 to 1864, J. D. Howe; 1864 to 1866, Ludwig Lewis; 1866 to 1868, H. C. Owen; 1868 to 1870, Samuel Pillsljurv. Uj) to 1861 the county judges in Iowa transacted the county business and had almost despotic power, but in 1860 the legislature transferred this powder to the Board of Supervisors, after which the duties of the county judge were merelv nominal.- The office was continued until 1868, when
560 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
it was abolished .and the then acting county judge was made ex officio county auditor for the balance of the unexpired term. Treasurer and Recorder: 1857 to 1859, M. A. Blanchard; 1859 to 1861, iW. B. Brown; 1861 to 1865, James Ball; 1865 to 1867, A. Kingman; 1867 to 1869, A. Jenkins; 1869 to 1873, M. J. Smith. The legislature in 1872 separated the offices of treasurer and recorder, making them two separate offices, the law taking effect January 1, 1873. The office of treasurer was held: 1872 to 1875, G. S. ISTeedham; 1875 to 1886, A. W. Os- borne; 1886 to 1894, O. Oliver; 1894 to 1898, D. T^. Guthrie; 1898 to 1902, J. C. Davis. During this latter period the office of recorder was held: 1873 to 1875, R. L. Wilcox; 1875 to 1881, A. A. Mosher; 1881 to 1889, C. C. Perrin; 1889 to 1895, Harvey 'Wood; 1895 to 1903, C. W. Price.
Clerk of the District Court: 1857 to 1859, R. A. Smith; 1859 to 1861, J. Palmer; 1861 to 1863, John Smith; 1863 to 1865, R. A. Smith; 1865 to 1867, Orson Rice; 1867 to 1871, A. A. Mosher; 1871 to 1873, W. B. Broum; 1873 to 1879, J. A. Smith; 1879 to 1887, W. F. Pillsbury; 1887 to 1893, J. S. Everett; 1893 to 1897, V. A. Arnold; 1897 to 1903, W. A. Price. From 1861 to 1869 the clerk of the district court was ex officio clerk of the Board of Supervisors, after which time this work was done by the county auditor.
Sheriff: C. F. Hill was first sheriff of the county: elected in 1857. Following him was: 1859 to 1862, A. D. Arthur. From 1862 to 1870 it is difficult to ascertain how this office was filled, the records having been lost at the burning of the courthouse. Daniel Bennett had held the office at intervals before W. S. Beers was elected in the fall of 1869, and held nntil 1872. 1872 to 1873, L. A. Litel ; 1873 to 1874, L. E. Holcomb; 1874 to 1876, A. L. Sawyer; 1876 to 1880, D. Ben- nett; 1880 to 1888, P. S. Mott; 1888 to 1892, A. D. Inman ;
COUNTY OFFICERS 561
1892 to 1898, P. E. N".arey; 1898 to 1900, J. C. Guthrie; 1900 to present time, Fred Jones.
County Attorney: 1857 to 1859, B. F. Parmenter. The legislature in 1858 abolished the office to take effect January 1, 1859, and a district attorney for the judicial district sub- stituted therefor. In 1888 the office was revived, and since that time has been held by the following persons: 1889 to 1891, William Hayward; 1891 to 1895, A. W. Osborne; 1895 to 1901, L. E. Francis; 1901 to the present, V. A. Arnold.
County Surveyor : 1857 to 1858, Alfred Wilkins. Much of the time from 1858 to 1870 this office was vacant, the duties being merely nominal. 1871 to 1873, iW. B. Brown; 1874 to 1876, W. F. Pillsbury; 1876 to 1878, Emmet F. Hill; 1878 to 1882, K. A. Smith; 1882 to 1884, Fred Diserns ; 1884 to 1886, C. E. Everett; 1886 to 1888, R. A. Smith; 1888 to 1890, J. A. Smith; 1890 to 1894, Pt. A. Smith; 1894 to 1902, J. M. Johnson.
County Auditor : The office of county auditor was establish- ed by the Twelfth General Assembly previous to which time the clerk of the district court was ex officio clerk of the Board of Supervisors. The first auditor elected in the county was Samuel Pillsbury, who served from 1870 to 1882. 1882 to 1890, W. F. Carlton; 1890 to 1893, C. T. Chandler; 1893 to 1897, W. C. Drummond; 1897 to 1903, S. L. Pillsbury.
Superintendent of Schools : Up to about 1870 the duties of this office were nominal and but little attention given to it. It was held by James Ball, John Smith and one or two others. Since that time it has been filled as follows: 1870 to 1875, A. (W. Osborne; 1875 to 1880, H. C. Crary ; 1880 to i886, R. A. Smith; 1886 to 1888, ;W. H. Armin; 1888 to 1894, R. B. Young; 1894 to the present time, H. A. jWelty.
The Law transferring the county business from the county judge to the Board of Supervisors went into force January 1, 1861, since which time the Board of Supervisors have been :
562 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
186J, Pi. Kingman, William Barkman, J. S. Prescott ; ISBiJ, Thomas Wyckoff, llenry Meeker, Addison Arthur; 1863, T. Wyckoff, Henry Meeker, Eber Palmer; 1864, Thomas Wykoff, Henry. Meeker, Eber Palmer; 1865, L. A. Stimpson, H. W. Davis, D. Bennett; 1866, L. A. Stimpson, H. W. Davis, Philip Doughty; 1867, L. A. Stimpson, H. ;W. Davis, Philip Doughty; 1868, G. Blackert, G. W. Pratt, Philip Doughty; 186J>, J. Sper- beck, G. W. Pratt, W. D. :\rorton ; 187.0, G. Blackert, W. D. Morton, J. Pahner; 1871, G. Blackert, W. D. Morton; J. Palmer; 1872, R. A. Sniitli, J. Palmer, ;W. D. Morton; 1873, (;. H. Ayers, II. A. Smith, Cr. S. Pvandall ; 1874, G. S. Ran- dall, iW. A. Richards, R. A. Smith; 1875, J. R. Upton, G. S. Randall, W. A. Richards; 1876, AV. A. Richards, J. R. Upton,
A. 1). Foster; 1877, J. R. I'])ton, A. 1). Foster, L. W. Waugh; 1878, L. W. Waugh, W. F. Carlton, A. S. Mead; 1879, L. W. Waugh, ,\V. F. Carlton, A. S. Mead; 1880, L. W. Waugh, W. F. (Varlton, A. S. Mead; 1881, L. W. ,Waugh, W. F. Carl- ton, A. S. Mead; 1882, I. S. Foster, O. Oliver, H. Brandon; 1883, I. S. Foster, O. Oliver, W. H. Bailey; 1884, I. S. Foster, O. Oliver, W. H. Bailey; 1885, I. S. Fos- ter, G. P. Wodell, R. S. Hopkins; 1886, I. S. Foster, G. P. AVodell, R. S. Hopkins; 1887, I. S. Foster, G. P. Wodell, R. S. Hopkins; 1888, J. Austin, G. P. Wodell, R. S. Hopkins; 1889, I. S. Foster, J. Austin, D. B. Smith; 1890, I. S. Foster, J. Austin, D. B. Smith; 1891, C. C. Gregory, H. Calkins, D.
B. Smith; 1892, C. C. Gregory, H. Calkins, D. B. Smith; 1893, C. C. Gregory, H. C. .Wiley, D. B. Smith; 1894, C. C. Gregory, H. C. Wiley, D. B. Smith; 1895, C. C. Gregory, H. C. *Wiley, P. Rasmussen ; 1896, C. C. Gregory, O. S. Jones, P. Rasmussen; 1897, P. Hagerty, O. S. Jones, P. Rasmussen; 1898, P. Hagerty, P. Rasmussen, O. S. Jones; 1899, P. Ras- mussen, O. S. Jones, P. Hagerty; 1900, O. S. Jones, C. C. Gregory, P. Rasmussen; 1901, O. S. Jones, C. C. Gregory, xV. W. Bascom.
DISTRICT OFFICERS 563
At first the supervisors were elected one from each organized township, .after the Xew York plan. In 1808 the change was made to elect the supervisors from the county at large. This ])lan was followed until 1900, when the county was divided into three districts, and each district elects a member of the board :once in three yearl. Under the law a countv can have three, five or seven supervisors, as they choose. It is .also optional to elect them from the county at large or divide the county into districts, and as before stated, this county was divided into three districts in 1900.
iThe' following district officers have also been elected from this county: In 1859 to 1863, O. C. Howe was district attor- ney; 1867 to 1871, O. Rice was district attorney; ]887 to 1891, J. W. Cory w.as district attorney. House of Representa- tives : Tenth General Assembly, John Smith ; Twelfth Gen- eral Assembly, R. A. Smith; Eighteenth General Assembly, W. B. Brown ; Twenty-eighth General Assembly, H. H. Myers. Senate, 1887 to 1899, A. B. Funk.
The Eighteenth General Assembly created the office of As- sistant Fish Commissioner, which office was held by A. A. Mosher, of this county, until tlic office was al)olished in 1888. In 1888 E. D. Carlton, of this county, was appointed Fish Commissioner by Governor Larrabee, and held the office two terms. The office of Steamboat Inspector was created about 1886, and has been held by residents of this county as follows; A. A. Henderson, E. O. Henderson, Milo Brown, J. C. Chris- tensen, Arthur Arp.
More statistics might be given were it deemed desirable, but unimportant figures soon become monotonous. Enough have been given from which to form a fairly intelligent idea of the growth and development of the county, and while this growth and development has not been as rapid or ,as marked as that of some other localities, it has been steady and sub- stantial and in the main satisfactory.
CHAPTER XLIII.
THE MOI^UMENT LEGISLAT'IOJT RELATING TO IT
COMMISSIONERS APPOINTED THEY ORGANIZE
EX-GOVERNOB CARPENTER MADE PRESIDENT
CONTRACT AWARDED TO P. N. PETERSON COM- PANY OF ST. PAUL;, MINNESOTA MONUMENT
COMPLETED REPORT OF COMMISSIONERS DEDI- CATION OF MONUMENT ADDRESSES BY R. A.
SMITH^ HON. C. E. FLANDRAU^ OF ST. PAUL^ HON. C. C. CARPENTER^ LIEUTENANT GOVERNOR DUN- GAN^ SECRETARY RICHARDS AND OTHERS PRE- SENTATION SPEECH BY GOVERNOR CARPENTER, PRESIDENT OF THE COMMISSION, AND THE MONU- MENT ACCEPTED ON BEHALF OF THE STATE BY HON. W. S. RICHARDS, GOVERNOR JACKSON's PRI- VATE SECBETABY.
OR SEVERAL years there had been among the old set- tlers a feeling in favor of erecting a suitable monument to the memory of the victims of the massacre of 1857, and as the years went by and as the people became more and more interested in preserving the history of that tragic event, this feeling became intensified and it remained for the Twenty-fifth General Assembly to take final and successful action in the matter.
Doubtless one of the chief factors in awakening public sen- timent on this point was the procuring, largely through the efforts of Hon. Charles Aldrich, the memorial tablet in the Webster City courthouse which commemorates the labors and sufferings of the company from that town in the- disastrous march to Spirit Lake in 1857 The dedication of this tablet
THE MONUMENT 565
was an interesting occasion. Governor Larrabee presided an; I addresses were made by Ex-Governor Carpenter, Hon. J. F. Diincombe, Hon. C. B. Richards, Charles Aldrich and many bthers, .and mnch enthusiasm prevailed. This seemed to be the first awakening of the people to the fact that the most tragic event in the historv of Iowa bad hitherto received but little notice.
The Spirit Lake Beacon of July 25, 1895, in referring to this subject, has the following:
"Measures looking to this end had been previously introduced and received the sanction of one legislative branch, but it re- mained for the last assembly to make the laudable enterprise successful. Following is the law in question:
" 'An act to provide for the proper interment of the remains of pioneers on Okoboji and Spirit Lakes, massacred by the Sioux Indians in 1857, and for the erection of a commemo- rative monument.
" 'Be it Enacted by the General Assembly of the State of Iowa:
" 'Section 1. That there is hereby .appropriated out of any money in the state treasury not otherwise appropriated the sum of five thousand dollars or so much thereof as may be neces- sary for the purposes hereinafter provided.
" 'Sec, 2. That the remains of all persons killed by Inkpa- dutah's band of Sioux Indians in the vicinity of the Dickinson County lakes, in March, 1857, be collected and properly in- terred.
" 'Sec. 3. That a monument fittingly commemorative of this tragic event be erected, upon which shall be inscribed the names of all persons who lost their lives at that time at the hands of the savages.
" 'Sec. 4. That grounds suitable for these purposes shall be selected near the scene of the tragedy, title to which shall be acquired and remain in the state of Iowa.
" 'Sec. 5. That said grounds shall be purchased, re-inter- ments made and monument erected before the 4th dav of Julv, 1895.
MONUMENT COMMISSION.
THE LAW FOR ITS ERECTION 567
" 'Sec. 0. A special comiiiissioii composed of live members shall be appointed by the governor of the state to carry out the provisions of this act, and to take all needful action in the prem- ises consistent with the spirit of the statute. They shall have en- tire management and control of the funds herein appropriated, which shall be paid out on bills approved by the commission. They shall tile with the auditor of state a full and complete account of all expenditures, and shall .also report to the gov- ernor their proceedings in this roiuiection ui)on the completion of their labors. The said commission shall serve without com- pensation.'
"Only four negative votes were cast in the senate and but few in the house. The bill .as introduced named the commissioners, but to please a captious legislator, this clause was stricken out upon the floor. Governor Jackson, however, promptly appointed as commissioners the parties originally named, to- wit : Hon. C. C. Carpenter, Bon. John F. Buncombe, Hon. R. A. Smith, Mrs. Abbie Gardner Shar]) and Hon. Charles Aldrich. The commission proceeded to the performance of its iduties practically and vigorously. Though given until the fourth of July to complete the work, the structure was readv to turn over Ijy the contractors early in the spring. Speaking of construction, it may be said that in material and workman- ship it is w]) to the best standards. The shaft is fifty-five feet in height, composed of Minnesota granite, with alternate sec- tions highly polished. The base upon which the pile rests is fourteen by fourteen feet, the lower course in the shaft is five by five feet. The top is in the form of an arrow head.
''The inscriptions are upon bronze tablets about thirty by forty incites, even more durable than granite, .and are given below:
(North Tablet)
(West Tablet)
ERECTED BY ORDER OF THE
TWENTY-FIFTH GENERAL
ASSEMBLY OF THE
STATE OF IOWA
1 894
(East Tablet)
The Pioneer Settlers named below were Massacred by Sioux Indians, March 8-13, 1857. The Barbarous Work was Commenced Near this Spot and Continued to a Spot North of Spirit Lake.
Robert Clark, Rowland Gardner. Prancis M. Gard- ner, Ro%vland Gardner, Jr , Carl Granger, Joseph Harshman, Isaac H, Harriott, Joel Howe Millie Howe, Jonathan Howe, Sardis Howe, Alfred Howe, Jacob Howe, Philetiis Howe, Har^'ej' Luce, Marj' M. Luce, Albert L>ice, Amanda Luce, Wm. Marble, James H. Mattock, Mary M. Mattock, Alice Mattock, Daniel Mattock, Agnes Mattock, .Jacob M. Mattock, Jackson A. Mattock, Robert Matthesen, Lydia Noble, Alvin Noble, John Noble, Enoch Ryan, Bertel E. Snyder, Joshua Stewart, wife and two children, Elizabeth Thatcher, Dora Thatcher, Wm. Wood, George Wood.
MEMORANDA
Mrs. Margaret Ann Marble, Mrs. Lydia Noble, Mrs. Elizabeth Tliatcher and Miss Abbie Gardner were carried into captivity. Mrs. Marble was rescued May 21st and Miss Gardner June 27, 18.57, tlirou^h the efforts of Gov. Sam Medary and Hon. Charles E. Fland- rau, of Minnesota.
Mrs. Noble and Mrs. Thatcher were mur- dered by the Indians.
1st
s.
l^o^tf-r of tlie relief expedition, Fort Dodge, March 24, 1857.
Major Wm. Williams, Comnianding.
COMPANY a
C. R. Ki<-h;irds. C:ipt.; F. A. Siratton, 1st Lieut.; L. K. Wiiglu. Srut : Si.lun MHSon.Cor.
PKtVATK.s— Wm. Burkholder, G. W. Brizee C C Carpenter, L. D. Crawford, Julius Conrad Henry
C'arse, Chatterton, Wni. Defore, J. W. Dawson
Wm. Ford, John Farnev, John (Jales, Andrew Hood' Angus McBane. Wm. McCaulev, Michael Maher e' Mahan, W. P. Pollock, W F. Porter, B. F. Parmen- ter, L. B. Ridgeway, Winton Smith, R. A. Smith, Geo. P. Smith. O. S. Spencer, C. Stebbins. Silas \ an Cleave, R. V. Wheelock, D. Westerfleld.
COMPANY B
.John F. Buncombe, Cnpt ; .Tame.'; Lane, Is Lieut ; S (J, Stev^ ns, 2d Lieut., u N Koons >ergt. ; Thomas C;ilai;an. Corporal.
Privates— James Addington. A. Burtch. Hiram Benjamin, D. H. Baker, Orlando Bice, Richard Car- ter, A. E. (^rounse, R. F. Carter, Michael Cavanaugh. Jere Evans. John Heffley, O. C. Howe, D, F Howell, A. S. Johnson, Jonas Murray, Daniel Morrisey. G. F. McClure, A. H. Malcome. Michael McCarty, J. N. McFarland, Robt. McCormick, John O'Laughlin, Daniel Okeson, Guernsey, ,Smith, J. M. Thatcher, W. Searles, John White, Washington Williams, Reuben Whetstone.
COMPANY C
.7. C. .Johnson, Oapt.; .1. N. Maxwell, 1st Lieut ; F. B Mason, 2d Lieut.: H. Hoover, Sergt.; A. N. Hathaway, Corporal.
Privates— Thos. Anderson, James Brainard, T. B. Bonebright. Sherman Cassady, W. L. Church, Pat- rick Conlan, H. E Dallev, John Erie. John Gates, Josiah Griffith, James Hickev, H C. Hillock, M. W. Howland, E. D. Kellogg, W. K. Laughlin, A. S. Leonard, F. R. Moody, John Nowland. J, (;. Pember- son, Alonzo Richardson, Michael Sweeney, Patrick Stafford. A. K. Tullis.
G. R. BissELL, Surgeon. G. B. Sherman. Com'ary.
(South Tablet)
Captain .1. C. Johnson, of Webster City, and Wm. Burkholder, of Fort Dodge, were frozen to death on the return march in Palo Alto County, April 4, 1857.
Persons Who Fled from the At tack oa Spring- field, Minn., and were Rescued by the Relief Expedition:
John Bradshaw, David Carver, Mrs. S. J. Church and two children, Eliza Gardner, Geo. Granger, Mrs. Harshman and children, Mr. Harshman (son of preceding) and wife, Morris Markham, Mrs. Wil- liam Nelson and child, Jareb Palmer, A. B. Shieg- ley, J. B. Skinner and wife, Mr. Smith and wife, Dr. E. B. N. Strong, wife and two children, John Stewart, Drusilla Swanger, J. B. Thomas, wife aud five children.
REPORT OF MONUxMENT COMMISSION 569
All of the essential details relative to the building of the monument are contained in the report of the commissioners to the Governor, made July 4, 1895, which is given below:
"EEPOET OF THE OKOBOJI ANT) SPIKIT LAKE MO]STUME]^T COMMISSIOiNr.
''Sir — 'The undersigned commissioners having in charge the matter of erecting the monument to the memory of the pioneer settlers massacred by Sioux Indians in the vicinity of Okoboji and Spirit Lakes, in 1857, in respectfully submitting their final report, deem it proper to a full understanding of the subject to copy the legislation relating thereto, as follows :
(This act has already been given.)
"As soon as practicable after receiving our commissions we met at the Duncombe House in Fort Dodge, and afterwards at the residence (Gardner cabin) of Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp, near Lake Okoboji, where the massacre w,as commenced on the 8th day of March, 1857. An organization was effected by appointing Cyrus C. Carpenter, chairman, Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp, secretary; -Charles Aldrieli, assitant secre- tary, and John F. Duncombe, attorney. The first action of the commission after organizing was to decide upon the loca- tion, which w,as fixed on the lot south of that owned by Mrs. Sharp — provided it could be secured without expense to the state. This lot, 100x180 feet, was owned by the Okoboji South Beach Company, who promptly conveyed it as a free gift to the state of Iowa for this purpose. An advertisement was then prepared .and published in several newspapers asking for plans and bids for the erection of the proposed monument, the com- missioners reserving to themselves the right to accept any plan or bid or reject all that might be made. The meeting for the examination of the plans and bids took place at the Gardner cabin on the 20th day of June, 1894. Upon a full and careful examination of the several propositions, many of which pos- sessed high merit, it was decided to accept that of P. IST. Peter- son, doing business under the name of P. ]^. Peterson Granite Company, of St. Paul, Minn. This contemplated a shaft fifty- five feet high above the foundation, in alternate blocks of rough and polished Minnesota granite, with a die of Qx6 feet, upon which should be placed four bronze tablets — for the sum of S4,500. The inscriptions placed upon the tablets may be de-
570
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
scribed as follows : On the easf , the list of murdered settlers ; on the west, a complete roster of the relief expedition com- manded by Major William Williams ; on the south, historical memoranda relating to the loss of Captain J. C. Johnson and Private W. E. Burkholder, the list of settlers who escaped from Springfield (now Jackson), Minn., etc. ; ,and on the north, the coat of arms of Iowa, with these words : 'Erected by order of the Twenty-fifth General Assembly of the State of Iowa.'
"While the time for the completion of the entire work as stipulated in the act was fixed for the 4th of July, 1895, it was completed and ready for acceptance in March preceding that date. A meeting was therefore held on the monument grounds on the 14th day of March, 1895, at which the work was care- fully examined ,and formally accepted by the commission, the contractor's bill for the cost of its erection ai)nroved. -Mid the auditor of state requested to issue his warrant nipon the state treasury for the payment thereof. In this connection it is but just to say that, in the judgment of the commission, Mr. Peter-
REPORT OF MONUMENT COMMISSION 571
son carried out every stipulation of his bond and contract, giving to our state a work which in its beauty of design and durability of its material, and the honesty with which it was built, is with- out a rival in the Xorthwest. This is also the unanimous judgment of .all who have examined the monument.
'^'To Mr. R. A. Smith of the commission was assigned the duty of grading the grounds, superintending the construction of the monument, including the foundation, and gathering to- gether and re-interring the remains of the murdered persons. These last were buried in one broad grave on the east front of the monument.
"To Charles Aldrich was assigned the work of preparing the inscriptions for the tablets.
"The following is a recapitulation of the expenses incurred and paid in this undertaking:
J. & R. Lamb, for tablet designs and drawings $ 30.00
The contract price paid to P. ¥. Peterson 4,500.00
Expenses allowed to C. C. Carpenter 40.07
Expenses allowed to John F. Duncombe 11.00
Expenses allowed to R. A. Smith . 252.88
Expenses allowed to Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sliarj). . . . 118.33 Expenses allowed to Charles Aldrich 44.82
Total $4,997.70
Amount of appropriation 5,000.00
Balance unexpended 2.30
"In concluding their duties the commission respectfully beg to suggest that provision should be made by the legislature for providing the monument lot with a permanent fence. Regula- tions should also be made for the appointment of ,a custodian and the care of the grounds. «
"All of which is respectfully submitted. "^''^y ^' 1894. :.(.^.^^^ (._ Cakpenter,
'^MoHN F. Duncombe, "Roderick A. Smith, "Abbie Gardner Sharp, "Charles Aldrich,
"Commissioners. "To Hox. Frank D. Jackson,
"Governor of Iowa.
"Des Moines."
572 DICKINSON COUNTY ■ IOWA
'This report was made on the fourth of July, Init was not filed with the Governor until the sixteenth of October. The time set for dedicating the monument and turning it over to the state was the twentv-fifth of Julv. The commissioners were all present on that occasion except Mr. Duijcombe, who was in Europe. The following description . of the dedication of the monument is from the Spirit Lake Beacon of July 26, 1895:
"THE MOXUMEISTT DEDICATED.
"iX TIIK PRESENCE OF A MULTIDUDE THE HISTORIC GRANITE IS FORMALLY PRESENTED TO THE STATE BY GOVERNOR CARPENTER AND ACCEPTED BY LIEUTENANT GOV- ERNOR DUNGAN AND PRIVATE SECRETARY
RICHARDS SPEECHES BY JUDGE FLAN-
DKAU^ HON. R. A. SMITH AND OTHERS.
"The lake region witnessed yesterday a most unique and in- teresting ceremony. It was a ceremony which brought face to face with history over five thousand people who flocked by excursion train, and wagon, and boat, and bike from the country within a radius of fifty miles to monument place, near Arnold's Park. In Massachusetts, where trod the armies of the Revolu- tion and where lived the great patriots of those stirring times, it is not strange to see shafts of niarlJe to commemorate the achievements of the patriots of that day. Somehow we feel that because a century or more has removed them from us that only there can we reach out and touch with our very hand heroic history. But yesterday, on the shore of beautiful West Okoboji, sun-kissed fyid breeze-fanned, a shining pearl in the great heart of the waving green and sheaved gold of the agri- cultural Xorthwest, although but thirty-eight years have wrouglit 'Out their drama of life, history stood forth in its crystalliza- tion and granite and bronze and five thousand people reached out their hands and touched the hem of her garment.
"historic CHARACTERS.
"And it w.as not only a large crowd of people who gathered to witness the ceremonies of dedication of the monument. It was a historic gathering. On the stage were Ex-Grovernor Car- penter, who marched with the relief expedition from Fort
DKDICATIO.N OF THE MONUMENT 573
Dodge, and who in that short campaign endured more actual suffering and privation than in all his four years' experience in camp and march during the Rebellion ; Judge Hendershott, of Ottuniwa, one of the first district judges in the new. state of Iowa ; Mrs. I. A. Thomas, one of the survivors of the Spring- field attack, whose eight-year-old son, Willie, was killed, and whose husband lost an arm in the repulse of the reds ; Jareb Palmer, who was in the Thomas cabin and assisted in repuls- ing the Indians, and who now lives at Lakefield, in Minne- sota ; Hon. R. A. Smith, president of the day, who is the old- est pioneer here, one of the relief party to bury the dead ; Hon. Charles Aldrich, who was then in the east for his printing outfit for the Hamilton Freeman, the 'Web- ster City paper founded by him, and who now is bending all his energies to the preservation of historic records of Iowa; Hon. Charles E. Flandrau, the Indian agent who rescued Abbie Gardner ; Chetanmaza, the Dacotah brave, whose shrewdness accomplished the redemption of the girl Abbie Gardner ; Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp, the girl of 13, the sole survivor of the Spirit Lake massacre, who was taken captive and who now lives in the original cabin, of her father, in which he and the rest of his family were killed ; Col. Warren S. Dungan, lieu- tenant governor of Iowa ; W. S. Richards, Governor Jackson's private secretary; State Auditor McCarthy, Senator Rowen, of Clarion ; Judge Given, of the supreme court ; Senator Hen- derson of Pocahontas, and a number of others.
"the exercises.
"On the platform a little northwest of the monument these historic characters, state ofiicials, speakers and musicians had their places. The crowd was comfortably seated — all who could secure seats when the exercises began — when Chairman Smith's watch said two o'clock, with a few preliminary an- nouncements, he asked Rev. John E. Rowen, a member of the last senate, to offer invocation, who breathed a beautiful bene- diction upon the great assembly. The president then gave the preliminary address of the exercises, as follows:
" Ladies and Gentlemen : It is unnecessary for me to re- capitulate the circumstances or onnmer.ate the reasons for our assembling here today. All are more or less familiar with the history of the events we have met to commemorate and it is not necessarv at this time to enter into a detailed account of the
574 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
bloody tragedy which thirty-eight years ago was enacted on this very spot. It has pleased the state of Iowa, through her legally chosen representatives, to provide for the erection of a suitable monument to commemorate the labors, sufferings and sacrifices of the devoted band of pioneers who in an early day pushed out far beyond the confines of' civilization and en- deavored to build homes for themselves and their posterity in this land of romance and this region of mystery, and who, after suffering incredible hardships, fell victims to governmental stupidity and stubbornness on the one hand and savage ferocity on the other.
"It is difficult now to comprehend ,the circumstances or divine the motives which induced these early pioneers to thus turn their backs upon civilization and put so rnany miles of trackless prairie between themselves and the settled portions of the country. But such has ever been the story of the American pioneer.
"There seeims to have arisen at this time all over the country an awakened interest in the history of important events and a desire to perpetuate and transmit that history to coming generations. This spirit is manifesting itself in different places by the erection of memorials and monuments upon historic spots made memorable by deeds of noble daring, of patient endur- ance and heroic suffering.
" Many of the states are erecting monuments upon the prin- cipal battle grounds of the late war wherever their own bravo regiments fought hardest or los* heaviest, and it is but meet .and proper that the state of Iowa, while she is spending her hundreds of thousands of dollars in giving fitting recognition to the glorious deeds of her brave soldiers and sailor? who fought and bled on so many battlefields, should also in her sov- ereign capacity give recognition to the smaller and less pre- tentious, though not less deserving, band of patriots and heroes who, taking their lives in their hands, struck far out on her northwe'stern border and after braving dangers such as fall to the lot of but few, finally gave their lives as a sacrifice to their intrepidity and courage.
"It is meet and fitting that to the pioneer the same .as the sol- dier should be accorded the meed of praise and recognition, and the erection on this spot of this beautiful column is a just, though long delayed, tribute to the memory of the brave and hardy, though unpretentious and unpretending, band of set-
PRELIMINARY ADDRESS 575
tiers who sacrificed their lives in their attempts to hnWd them homes on this then far awav northwestern frontier.
" Where is the good, it may be asked, of these memoj'ial ser- vices ? We can do nothing for the dust and ashes sm mu klering there. 'Tis true, and yet we have high authority for memorial services. iWhen the great Creator finished his work and saw that it was good, he decreed that as a memorial of that event one day in seven should be set apart as a perpetual reminder of the great .achievement. When the waters of the flood receded from the base of Mount Ararat, God made a covenant with man as a memorial or reminder of that event, and said : "I (io set my bow in the cloud and it shall be for a token of a eove^ nant between me and the earth and it shall come to pass when I bring a cloud over the earth that the boiu shall be seen in the cloud and the bow shall be in the cloud.'
" So in His dealings with His chosen people many and sig- nificant are the memorial occasions established by divine .authoritv. The feast of the Passover, the feast of Pentacost, the feast of the Tabernacles and many other festival occasions Avero memorials commemorating the interposition of the Al- mighty Power for the deliverance of His people. When the greatest of all earthly tragedies was nearing completion, ,and the Savior of men gave to His disciples the emblems of His broken body and spilled blood, and admonished them 'Do this in remembrance of Me,' He established a memorial occasion that has been faithfully observed by His followers in all parts of the world for near two thousand years.
'^ Also in our time we have our memorial occasions, establish- ed In" state or government authority, or the common consent and usage of our people. Only two years ago we witnessed at the White City the wonderful spectacle of all civilized nations bringing together their choicest treasures and placing them on exhibition as a memorial commemorating the trials and tri- umphs of the great Admiral whose genius, courage and forti- tude opened the way for the development of the American con- tinent The general observance of our national birthday as a memorial occasion is but a fulfillment of the prophecy of old John Adams on the floor of Congress when he said, 'We will make this a glorious and immortal day.'
"Another memorial occasion in which our people manifest deep interest is our soldiers' memorial day, the day on which by common consent our people meet to 5trew the garlands of
576 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
affection and gratefnl remembrance on the graves of our fallen Heroes. Thus have I noticed a few of the memorial occasions which liave come to be generally recognized and observed. Courage and hardihood, intrepidity and self-denial, suffering and sacrifice, all these have in all ages been deemed worthy the meed of j)raise and recognition, and '\^hether exhibited by the victorious general at the head of his ,army on the field of battle, or the humble and unjjretentious settler on the northwestern border, are equally worthy the resjDect and admiration of a grateful people.
" When we contemplate the dangers braved, the hardshi[).s and privations endured, and the final suffering and sacrifice which fell to the lot of the victims whose dust and ashes have been gathered together and interred in this historic spot, we can but feel that at the best the ceremonies and' memorial ex- ercises of the j)resent occasion would be but a lame and im- perfect tribute to the brave deeds they are intended to perpet- uate, were it not for the fact that in paying the last sad tribute of respect to the memory of the victims of savage hate and bar- barity, we are paying a deserved tribute to courage and self- denial, endurance and self-sacrifice wherever found, and our exercises on this occasion would l)e little better than hollow mockery.
" .But we have reason to congratulate ourselves that there is a growing interest felt by the people of Iowa in the history and destiny of her early pioneers, and the building of this beauti- ful monument on 'this spot made historic by the blood of the victims, who here risked their lives and lost them, is but the logical expression of that awakened interest. Let us hope that this awakening is not ephemeral or temporary, but that it mav result in rescuing from oblivion much in the history of our state that has been neglected or forgotten. The story told by this memorial shaft is but a faint expression of the toils en- dured, the dangers braved and the sacrifices made by the un- fortunate victims whose remains lie buried here, but it points toward heaven and fitly expresses tlie liopes and aspirations of untold generations vet to come.
"The Harker family rendered a selection of music and then the president introduced Tudge Charles E. Flandrau, the In- dian agent who rescued Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp. Chair- man Smith introduced him as the man who did more to defend the frontier than nnv'otlior man, living or dead. Judfre T'landrnu.
ADDRESS BY JUDGE FLANDRAU
577
HON. C. E. FLANDRAU.
said he did not propose to make a speech, but would give a sim- ple n,arrative of the events which w^ere commemorated today. He gave a trenchant pen picture of the pioneer and then nar- rated the part he took in the rescuing of Mrs. Sharp. He re- counted the facts of the massacre, the flight of the Indians Avith their captives, the fruitless expedition of the Fort Dodge relief regiment, and the ransom of Mrs. Sharp for $1,000 in blan- kets, etc., "which Indians needed. Perhaps the most interest- ing part of his address, because it ans-wered an oft asked ques- tion, was concerning the immunity of the Indians. It has been often asked, said Judge Fl.andrau, Svhy the government never
578 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
did anything to punish these marauding savages. The answer is plain : Colonel Alexander and myself had a well matured plan to attack Inkpadutah the instant we learned the fate of the captive women. We had live companies of the Tenth in- fantry at our disposal and could easily have destroyed his en- tire band, but, unfortunately, just before we w^ere ready to move on the enemy, the whole garrison" was ordered to Fort Bridger, Utah, to aid Greneral Albert Sydney Johnson's com- mand in the suppression of an anticipated Mormon outbreak, and before any available troops came to our frontier to replace them, Inkpadutah and his people had passed out of recollection. These malefactors did not, however, go entirely unwhipped of justice. About the latter days of June of the same year of the massacre, I learned of the presence of some of Inkpadutah's people at the Yellow Medicine River, who Kad come over with a large force of Missouri River Sioux. I at once fitted out a -^'olunteer force of young fellows about the Agency, got fifteen soldiers and a lieutenant from the fort, and attacked the caniD where they were located, and succeeded in killing Inkpadutah's eldest son, who had been active in all the mischief ; and so ended a very interesting episode in the. early history of Iowa and Minnesota. It is safe to say that our Indian troubles are now over, and wdiile we may find cause for rejoicing in this fact, we are compelled to recognize that the advance of civilization, which has annihilated the frontier and disposed of the savages, has also removed the active theater of the pioneer, and thus 'destroyed the most adventurous, interesting and picturesque character in American history.'
"cOl.. W. S. DUNGAN SPEAKS.
"Chairman Smith announced that Hon. O. C. Howe, one of the first men to spread a report of the massacre, who was on the program, could not be present, but that his paper would be published. He then introduced Lieutenant Governor Dungan, who, on behalf of Governor Jackson, was present to accept the monument with Mr. Richards, the governor's private secretary. He congratulated the commission on giving to the state such an elegant shaft at so remarkably small cost ; praised the hero- ism of the pioneer, dwelt with considerable eloquence upon the scenery about the spot, and commended the spirit of appre- ciation of heroic services of the pioneer.
GOVERNOR CARPENTER AND HON. W. S. RICHARDS 579
"ex-governok carpenter
was announced to present the monument to tlie state, rej)re- sented by Colonel Dungan and Private Secretary Richards. In diction, appropriateness for the occasion and rugged thought, it was the gem of the day. It w.as a resume of the work of the commission. In their plans and construction of the shaft, Minnesota granite was chosen, both for the historic sentiment of Minnesota's good offices and because it was better and cheaper than eastern granite. He thanked God that Judge Flandran and Chetanmaza could be here to participate in the celebra- tion of the occasion which makes them certain characters in history. He accredited the design of the tablets, the collection of the names and data to Mr. Aldrich, paying him a glowing tribute for his efficient work. Closing he said: 'And now the monument passes into the custody of the state to be cared for and protected as an object lesson in history for the generations to come. It not only commemorates the great tragedy which crimsoned the waters of these lakes, but it will keep alive the memory of a species of American character which will soon become extinct. As we look away to the west, we are impressed that there is no longer an American frontier ; and when tTie frontier shall have faded aw^ay, the pioneer will live only in history, and in the monuments which will preserve his memory.'
"the monument accepted.
"Governor Jackson's private secretary, Hon. W. S. Richards, was presented and accepted the monument in behalf of the state. He spoke of the act of the Twenty-fifth General Assem- bly as follows :
" 'This bill,' continued Mr. Richards, 'was approved by his excellency, Governor Jackson, March 30, 1894:, and on April 10th he appointed Cyrus C. Carpenter of Fort Dodge, R. A. Smith of Okoboji, Charles Aldrich of Des Moines, John F. Buncombe of Fort Dodge, and Abbie Gardner Sharp of Oko- boji, a commission to carry out the provisions of this act. How faithfully they have performed the duties assigned them this beautiful shaft and its surroundings speak for themselves. The successful completion of this monument is due to the fact that every member of the commission was identified with the early settlement and growth of this part of Iowa, and that some of them were actual participants in the stirring events of which this monument is commemorative. Hon. C. C. Car-
580 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
penter, twice governor of his state, twice elected to congress, and who has held many other positions of trust and confidence, but of all his public services I believe there is none of w^hich he is prouder today than that he carried a gun in the Spirit Lake expedition of 1857.
" 'Rodney A. Smith, a pioneer of Sgirit Lake; a member of his state legislature, -a jnan of character and ability who bore the burdens and hardships of the pioneer settler ; a man favor- ably known and highly esteemed by all; a gentleman who has done much to preserve the history of the event; also a mem- ber of the expedition that went to the rescue of the settlers.
" 'Charles Aldrich, a pioneer settler of Hamilton County, the founder and editor of the Hamilton Freeman, chief clerk of the Iowa house of representatives in the years 1860, 1862, 1866 and 1870; a member of his state legislature in 1882; founder of the Iowa Historical Department and its present curator, and who is now devoting .all the energies of a trained mind and zealous heart to the work of preserving for future- generations the glorious annals of a glorious state, which is to he the monument he will leave to those who shall come after him.
" 'John F. Duncombe, another early pioneer of Webster County who commanded Company B, which was one of the companies that hastened to the defense and relief of the sorely pressed settlers of this community, and who came near losing his life through exposure during that campaign, and who since that time both as a legislator and citizen has left his impress npon the laws and institutions of his state.
'* 'Abble Gardner Sharp, the sole survivor of that terrible massacre, whose presence here today, together Avith her friend, Chetanmaza, who w.as her rescuer and defender during the darkest and most terrible hours of her life, adds a living inter- est to this occasion.
" 'This commission needs no words of commendation at mv hands. To say they have discharged each and every duty well is oidv faintly expressina; that which is due them. The labor they have performed and the time that they have given plan- ning and erectino- this monument has been a labor of love to the memories of those who were so crnelly massacred bv Tnk- padutah's savaoje band.
" 'In .accordance with the act ]iassed bv the Oen.u'al Ass^m- 1)lv, thev are to receive no compensation for their services.
TELEGRAM FKOM HON. J. V. DUNCOMBE 581
They will, however, in the years to cijiue receive fr(jm those who dwell here and from those who visit this beautiful lake country each returning year, the benediction, 'Well done, good and faithful servants."
"One of the pleasant things of the event was a telegram from Hon. John F. Dtincombe, who could not get over from Lon- don, England, yesterday to attend the ceremonies. It was as follows :
" 'LOXDOX^ EXGLAXD, JuLY 25.
'' 'To Hon. C. C. Carpenter, President of Spirit Lake Monu- ment Commission :
" 'I congratulate you and my colleagues of the commission on the final .act of dedication and unreiling of the monument which commemorates the most important and saddest event in the his- tory of our beloved Iowa. All glory and honor to the noble pioneers who died ; to those who lost their lives in the effort to rescue the survivors, .and to the great-hearted and ha]i])y peo]d(' who have commemorated these worthy deeds. God bless Iowa. My wife joins me in every sentiment.
" 'johx f. duxcombe.'
"a poem axd picture.
"1
''Mrs. C. H. Bennett, of Pipestone, IMinn., then recited n beautiful poem, historic in incident and lofty in patriotism. While the choir was rendering more music the two Indians Chetanmaza and Marpiyahdinape were escorted to the platform by Mrs. Sharp and a photograph was taken of the w^hole scene, monument, Indians, commissioners, etc. Short speeches were then made by Hon. A. Y. Stout of Grundy County and Sam G. Sloane, of Charles City. Mrs. Thomas, her son and Mr. Pal- mer, survivors of the Springfield fight, were introduced and applauded, and the exercises which commemorates the first state monument ^vere .at a successful end."
CHAPTER XLIV.
CONCLUSION".
jAKIXG a retrospective view of the events of the last half century, we can see spread out before us with clean cut distinctness the Inany and varied changes incident to the transition of a country from the favorite rendezvous of a band of roving savages to the no less favorite resort of the cul- tured and refined devotee of fashionable society, and as we give scope to the imagination the changing pictures that come and go form a panorama, strange, unique, novel ,and interesting. The first scene in our moving picture is of a native population follow- ing the various occupations of savage life, and carrying out in their primitive way, their own peculiar ideas of the attainment of human happiness. We think of the lake region as having been, during the early half of the century just closed, the favorite resort of a roving, marauding band of Yankton Sioux, who, for untold generations, had held this fair domain as all their own, and from here as headquarters had conducted their preda- tory excursions far and wide in every direction.
As the lakes are now in their season the acknowledged cen- ter of the fashionable social life of our time, so but one genera- tion ago were they the acknowledged center of the savage life wdiich then dominated this region. The conditions were ideal. The vast herds of elk and buffalo which roamed undisturbed % over the boundless jirairies, the countless myriads of water fowl that in their annual migrations invariably made the lakes a temporary resting place each spring and fall, together with the immense schools of fish inhabiting the crystal waters, these things combined made it possible for roving savages to secure the simj)le necessities of their mode of life witli little exertion
CONCLUSION
583
on their part. Indeed, it would be difficult to imagine Cfon- ditions.more peculiarly fitted to the support and enjoyment of the primitive life of these roving bands, than those existing here at the time of the advent of the first white adventurers. What wonder then that they clung to these, their favorite haunts, with such stubborn pertinacity .and bloody determination?
The second scene is the coming of the white man. The rest- less, resistless spirit of adventure so characteristic of the American frontiersman, coupled with the marvelous accounts of the abundant game, the beautiful lakes and the charming- groves by which they were surrounded, early impelled the hardy pioneer to strike out far beyond the confines of 'civilization to ex- plore this land of romance and region of mystery. When it be- came apparent to the savage leaders that this fair domain they had so long considered all their own was in danger of being over- run and absorbed by the aggressive white settlers, the instinct of self preservation impelled them to take such measures as
584 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
their ignorant savage natnre snggested to prevent the impend ing disaster. Then came the long list of annoying circnm- stances .and predatory excnrsions which })rodneed the strained relations that have always existed between the Sionx and the Iowa frontier settlers. The savages were determined the whites should get no foothold on the Upper Des Moines or in the lake region. Crafty old Sidominadotah zealously watched and guarded every avenue of approach. It is not .asserted, nor is it to be supposed, that he was more cruel and bloodthirsty than other savages of his time, but he was absolutely determined to defend his country against the encroachments of the whites at all hazards. 'Tis true treaties had been negotiated and signed some years previous whereby this region should be sur- rendered to the United States, but this band took no part in the council and refused to be bound by the treaty and claimed their ancient hunting grounds as still their own.
Quarrels and collisions, insignificant at first, continued to grow in frequency and magnitude, until they finally culmi- nated in the murder of the old chief and his entire family of nine persons by the desperado, Henry Lott, on the tragic banks <)i "Bloody Kun." Three years later this unprovoked and un- punished murder was terribly avenged by his brother, the fa- mous Inkpadutah, in the massacre of the entire Spirit Lake settlement, whereby some forty persons fell victims to his avenging fury. The fact that Inkpadutah and his followers were allowed to escape the punishment they so richly merited .and to mix with and become a part of the other tribes, is given as one important factor in the aggregation of causes that led to the terrible Minnesota outbreak in 1862,
The relations of cause and effect which can be plainly traced through this series of occurrences forms a curious .and striking episode. First in the series was the trouble between Chief Sid- ominadotah and the adventurer Lott near the mouth of Boone
CONCLUSION 585
River, when the old chief ordered Lott to leave their huntin:2: grounds, and upon his refusal to do so, destroyed his property, abused his family and forced them to leave the place. Out of this circumstance grew the terrible tragedy of Bloody Run, which occurred a few years later, where Lott murdered his ancient enemy together with his entire family. This w^as in 1854. Three years later, or in 1857, came the Spirit Lako Massacre, which is directly traceable to the Rlood}^ Run trag- edy. The fact that the perpetrators of this massacre were not adequately punished, but that they were suffered eventually to join the agency Indians, is believed to have had much to cio with precipitating the outbreak in 1862. But the analogy does not end here. ,The great bulk of the savages who participated in that bloody affair, after being kept a while as prisoners, were sent up the Missouri River and turned loose on a reservation.
It is the deliberate opinion of those who have made a careful study of the question that to this act should be attributed most of the subseqiient troubles w4th the wild tribes of the upper Missouri which culminated in the Custer Massacre on the Little Big Horn in 1876.
This chain of events and their' curious dependence upon each other naturally call to mind the old saw with which we were all familiar in our childhood days:
"For the want of a nail the shoe was lost ; through the loss of the shoe the horse was lost ; through the loss of the horse the rider was lost; through the loss of the rider the battle was lost, and through the loss of the battle the kingdom was lost, and all for the M^ant of a horseshoe nail."
But the bloody picture of savage warfare passes and is fol- lowed by the quaint and ever enjoyable picture of pioneer life. The conditions that existed at the time of the first settlement of this county are impossible now in any part of the country.
586 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Now the railroads are the pioneers ; the population comes later. But it w.asn't so in the settlement of any ])art of Iowa. The prairie schooner, the plodding, sIoav moving train, the droves of straggling stock, the jolly camphre, around which nightly gathered the sturdy boys and buxom g'irjs of the families of these early adventurers when on their journey to their new west- ern homes were a familiar picture a half a century .ago in every part of Iowa. The self-denials, struggles and labors incideni" to obtaining a foothold in any new country are something that must be experienced to be understood. No mere description can convey an adequate idea of the thousand and one make- shifts and ingenious devices resorted to by the thrifty settlers in lieu of the conveniences to which they had famierly been accustomed.
The vicissitudes of pioneer life, its toils, hardships and pri- vations on the one side, and its pleasures, excitements and bright anticipations on the other, have been so often and oo vividly portrayed that they need not be repeated. A whole volume, ,and an interesting one at that, might be written made up entirely of the experiences and reminiscences of the time when the old settlers in the log cabin or sod shanty days were discounting the future in their efforts to make them homes in tliis far awav and isolated reeion.
The early settlers of northwesteni luwa had much more to contend with than usually falls to the lot of the first settlers in .a new country. The grasshopper raid, by which the coun- try was devastated and the growing crops destroyed for four years, was an infliction wholly out of the ordinary and one against which common foresight failed to provide .any defense or remedy. Only four or five counties suffered the full force of this disaster. Other counties were ravaged in part, but the four or five northwestern counties in this state felt the full for.':'e of the visitation. It was the
CONCLUSION 587
severest blow with whieh the settlers of this region ever had to contend, and taken in connection with the ordinary hard- ships of pioneer life, made the lot of the first settlers pecnliarly trying and was the cause of much privation and suffering among them, and the only wonder is that they bore up under it .as well as they did.
It transjnred here as it has transpired in all new countries that those who suffered most in the toils, lal)ors and privations <<i the early days were not the ones to reap the reward of their early sacrifices. The ideal pioneer is not a money maker. Usually the money making instinct is wholly wanting in his makeup. The liberal and almost careless openhearted and openhanded hospitality which is ever his most prominent char- acteristic, precludes the possibility of accumulating wealth, and it is therefore in accordance with the common order of things that a more venal and mercenary class should reap where he had sown and grow rich on the unrequited toil and unrewarded labor incident to the subduing of a new country.
This trait of the pioneer character cannot be better illus- trated than by the story of President Lincoln's land warrant, which was first given to the world in .a late number of "Annals of Iowa" by a Council Bluffs correspondent. As a captain in the Black Hawk War he was awarded a land warrant for one hundred .and sixty acres. Instead of locating it, as he might have done, at the time on some of the valuable tracts adjacenr to Chicago, he put it away with his discharge and kept it as a souvenir of his services in that campaigTi. In 1858, on the ,occasion of his visit to Council Bluffs, he had his land w^arrant with him, and on exhibiting it to a friend was asked why in tlie world ho hadn't located it on some of the valuable land .about Chicago, and referred to the fact that his friend, Judge D'avis, disposed of his in that way and it was the foundation of the immense fortune he afterwards acquired. "Well," re-
588 DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
j)lied Lincoln, '^'David always made money bnt I never could. You see," he continued, "it was this way. I was .afraid ifi I located it there might be times' when I couldn't pay the taxes and then I might lose it." He located his warrant on this trip on a quarter section in Crawford" County in this state. President Lincoln was not the first man nor the Last to stand back and hesitate where others went in and rounded up their thousands.
•With the coming of the railroads was ushered in the closing scene of our moving panorama, and our next view is of the busy, bustling, active life of the world arouml us. "Old things have passed away and all things have become new." Thd vast ex- panse of treeless prairie stretching away indefinitely to the northwest, which was once considered but a northern extension of the "Great American Desert," has been converted into fer- tile fields and thrivine; farms, which are now the homes of thousands of industrious and prosperous families, while busy cities, thriving villages and prosperous communities are every- where scattered through this region where so short .a time since seenicd one vnst expanse of loneliness and desolation. Vast herds of sheep and cattle are now grazing on the feriile plains where then roamed the elk and buffalo. Modern improvements and modern appliances are seen on every hand. Schools and churches have been multiplied until they greet the traveler at every turn. The primitive methods of agriculture have been superseded by modern machinery and up-to-date appliances until "The man with the hoe" exists only in the memory of the old timer or the imagination of the modern poet.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Abbott, Harvey, 218.
Acheson. James, 496.
Adams, Miss D., 189.
Adding-ton, J., 84, 106, 108.
Agencies, Indian, 27, 238.
Agricultural ^Societies, 555.
Aldrich, Charles, 52, 115, 355, 564. 567.
Alo-onqum Tribes, 17.
Albee, M. P. W., 399.
Allar, John, 476.
Allen, Samuel, 322.
Alexander, Col., 122.
"Alpha," 405. 406. 410.
Annals of Iowa, 39, 52, 109, 351.
Anderson, G., 322.
Anderson, J. S. & W. H., 322.
Anderson, Gilbert, 325.
Andrews, Eev. Charles. 460, 489.
Armin & Riley, 501.
Arnold's Park, 527.
Arnold. W. B., 399. 477.
Ai-nold, Anthony, 502.
Arnold. C. A., 477, 520.
Astronomical Observation, 42.
Arthur, A. D., 206, 208. 260, 312, 417.
Arthur, H. D., 208, 232.
Arthur, ^Irs. Albert. 363.
Arthur, Miss Xellie. 366.
Ault, Rev. J. W., 460.
Austin, J., 318.
Avery, C. H., 514.
Ayers, C H., 322, 431, 447, 465, 466.
B.
Bad Hail, 200.
Bad Lands, 285.
Bad gen nv, (!. A., 551.
Bahls, Theo., 509.
Bailev, W. H., 431, 460.
Bailev. Rev. T. S.. 461, orfi.
Baird, Rev. A. K., 460.
Bailey & Barney, 444.
Baker, Gen. N. B., 355.
Baldwin, Judge C, 234.
Ball, James, 189. 210. 417.
Barcus, Tom, 477.
Barkman, Henry, 150. 159. 189, 212, 216,
259, 371, 417, 423, 427, 483. Barkman, Wm., 189, 221, 230, 260. Barkman, Miss Dena, 466.
Barr, George, 309. Barnes, Rev. G. W., 505. Barron, F. W., 433, 472. Bartlett, Samuel, 322. Bascom, Wm., 549. Bates, O. C, 306, 446. Battles:
Upper Agency, 239.
Fort Ridgley, 240, 242.
New Ulm, 241.
Birch Coulee, 245.
Big Mound, 282.
Dead BufPalo Lake, 283.
Stony Lake, 283.
Bad Lands, 285.
^Yh\ie Stone Hill, 262, 278, 279, 280. Baxter, Henry, 398, 403, 427, 443. Baxter, George, 433. "Beacon" (Spirit Lake), 434, 437, 443,
445, 466. Beacon Block, 432, 438. Beck, J. A.. 374, 545. Bedow, C, 186, 187. Bee. Capt. B. E., 121, 122, 276. Beebe, James, 322. Beebe, Dr.. 502. Beers. W. S., 31S, 428, 444, 480. Bell, Ralph, 516. Bellows, George C, 318, 420, 425, 431,
445. "Ben Lennox," 406. Bennett, Daniel, 231. Bennett, H. J., 232. Bennett, Miss Julia, 364. Bennett, C. P.- ">()4. Benson, J. T., 502. Benson, S., 502, 509. Bergman, A. F., 443. Bergman, P., 462. Berrvhill, J. G., 516. ■Retrer. E. M., 435. Big Island Grove, 96, 111. Bingham, J. S., 324. Birc^ Coulee. 239, 244. Bissell, Dr. G. E,., 82. Blackbirds, 190. Blackert G., 259. 422. 442. Blackert, E. G., 446. 485. Blackert, Mrs. E. G., 470. Blackert, Carl, 467. Blake, F. A., 232, 418.
590
DICKINSON COUNTY
IOWA
Blake, Miss Emma, 364.
Blanchard, M. A., 148, 170.
Blackman, Andrew, 476.
Blizzards, 307.
Blow, J. C., 515.
I low en. Rev. T. F.. 462.
Bradshaw, John, 82, 119.
I'.raistead. Kev. P.. II., 460. 489, 511.
Breffle, Ira, 509.
Breffle, S. W., 510.
Bridges, 218.
Bristol, Frank, 475.
Britch, C, 462,
Brizee, Geo. VV., 102.
Broadgate Bros., 411.
Broadbridge, Eev., 460.
Brockway, Geo., 154.
Broderick, L., 512.
Brown, Rev. G., 211, 500.
Brown, Rev. (J. ^^ . L.. 45S.
Brown, W. B., 148, 153, 161, 210, 363,
397, 444, 563. Brown, Roscoe, 426. Brown, Milo, 563. Brown, Henry. 410. Brown, Major J. E., 244. Browne. C W., 467. Brownell, Dr. E. L.. 417. 4.16, 443, 54S. Brownell, Mrs. E. L., 470. BrownelFs Beach, 548. Brims, U. I., 557.
Bnckland, Mrs. A. L.. 291. 366, 367, 480. Bufenm, Elmer, 502. Buffalo. Last in Iowa, 377. Bunker, Mrs. G. A., 488. Burkholder, Wm. E., 84. 90. 104, 106. Burton, Eev. N. L., 488. Burch, Rev. F. , -if-'O. Burtch, A., 64, 84, 90. Bush, G. H, 187, 202, 207, 541. Buffum, John, 509. Burrows, G. W., 509.
Caldwell, Dan., 189. Call. A. C, 188. Campbell, John, 197, Calkins, Homer, 477. Campbell, H. H., 322. Campbell, R., 322. Campbell. Sam, 322, Campbell. Wm.. 323. Camp Release, 248. Camp Meeting- ^thp fiv'-tV Carleton, Mrs. Esther, 367. Carlton, W. F.. 4S1. 562. Carltou. E. D., 381. 389, 563.
199.
431.
'.04.
Carpenter, Hon. C. C, S3, 94. 100, 109,
182, 351, 567, 579. Carpenter, Rev. J. H., 461. Carse, Henry, 84, 99, 107. Carsley, Wm., 159. Carroll, Rev. L., 464. Case, y.. A.. 485, 4S6. 541. Case, Mj-s. A., 478. Case, Austin, 477. Cassady. Lieut.. 255, 256. 258. 260. Chandl'er, C, 417. Chappel, M., 324. Chase, Wm.. 493. Chase, George, 383, 398. Chautauqua, 472. Cheney, Eev., 505. Chetanma/.a (Iron Hawk), 136. (bitten, Henry. 113, 197. C;hishoIm, D. R., 427, 444, 460. C, M. & St. P. E. E. 330, 370, 371, 373,
406. C. & N. W. E. E., 371. Christensen. J. C, 476, 563. Chrysler. J. (i.. 509, 510. Chrysler, A. B., 504, 509. Church, Wm. L., 80, 81, 120, 184, 206. Church, Mrs. L. J., 81, 116. 117. ]2l). Civic Societies: Spirit Lake, 449.
A. F. & A. M., 449.
Eoyal Arch, 451.
0. E. S., 450.
1. 0. O. F., 453.
Patrons of Husbandry. 454. Good Templars, 454. G. A. E., 455. Knights of Pythias, 455. A. O. U. W., 456. Modern Woodmen, 456. American Yeomen, 457. Milford:
A. M.. 491. 491.
F., 492. , 492.
Knights of Pythias, 493. ]Modern Woodmen, 493. American Yeouien. 493. Lake Park:
A. F. &■ A. M., 507. I. O. O. F., 507. A. 0. U. W.. 5C«. American Yeomen. 509. Churches — Spirit Lake: Methodist, 458. Baptist, 459. Congregational. 460.
|
A. |
F. |
& |
|
0. |
E. |
S. |
|
I. |
0. |
o. |
|
G. |
A. |
E |
ALPHABETICAL INDEX
591
Presbyterian, 460.
Episcopalian, 462.
German Lutheran, 462.
Catholic, 463. Milford:
Methodist, 487.
Cong-regational. 488.
Baptist, 489.
Lutheran, 490.
Catholic. 490. Lake Park:
Methodist, 505.
Presbyterian. 506. Clark, Robert, 64, 66, 88. Clark, Elmer, 411. Clark. G. P.. 477. Clapp, Eev., 506. Clearwater, Rev. J. C, 505. Coburn, R. E., 548. Coffin, Hon. L. S- 523. Cold Storage Plant, 440. Cohenour, Rev. J., 211, 458. Cook, Rev. Joseph, 475. Cook, Mrs. W. A., 488. Cole. Rev. W. T.. 458. Cole, H. D., 556. Compton, O., 334, 443. Congleton, L., 189, 205, 212, 260, 417. Cong-leton, Mary, 189. Congleton, Emma, 189. Conwell. Rev. Rnssell. 475. Coopei-, George, 232. Copeland. Lieut. .T. T.. 260. Coppoc, Rev. .T. L.. 459, 4fif5. Cory, J. W., 431. 563. Cory, Mrs. J. W., 462. Courthouse. 223. 256. 435. County Seat Located, 159. County Officers, 559, 560, 561. Cousins, Thomas, 460. Covi^ham, R. M., 493. Crandall. O., 318, 356, 425, 432, 444. Crarv, H. C, 368, 480. Crarv, Mrs. H. C, 478, 480. Crane, V. B., 448. Ci'avens, John, 462. Cravens, J. W., 509. Crandall's Lodge. 519. Crosby, Norton, 232. Culbei-tson, W. L.. 548. Cullen, Major, 144. Cylinder Creek, 100.
D.
T). .\rcv, Arthur. 318. Dacotah Tribes, 20, 21. Dalev. Rev. J. R., 464.
Daley, Rev. M. R., 464.
Dalley. H. E., 84.
Darrow. Charles, 484.
Davenport, Hon. Geo. L., 270, 271.
Davidson, Andrew, 493.
Davidson, W. T., 485.
Davis, E. J. 317.
Davis, E. v., 323.
Davis, J. C, 323.
Davis, Alfred, 325.
Davis, Hiram, 485.
Davis, LeRoy, 462.
Davis, Mrs. LeRoy, 462.
Davis. Mrs. J. L.. 467.
Day. Rev. F. E., 458.
De'roe, Wm., 84.
Death of Mrs. Thatcher, 128.
Death of Mrs. Noble, 131.
Delevan. Geo. E., 39?. 393.
Des Moines & N. W. R. R., 372.
Deer, the Last in Iowa, 383.
Des Moines Beach, 540.
Dickerson, John, 496.
Dingwall, John, 496.
Diuioud, .Tolin, 433.
Dietrick, George, 180.
Dodge, A., 324.
Dodson, John. 197.
Dodge, Gen. G. M., 234.
Doolittle, F. C, 317.
Doolittle, Israel, 317.
Doughty, Philip. 428.
Doughty, J. A., 428. 465.
Doughty, Thomas. 232.
Doughty, Frank, 232.
Doughty, Carrie, 211.
Dows, Hon. S. L., 523.
Dows. Hon. S. L., 372.
Drake. Rev. W. ri., 458.
Drew, J. B., 496.
Dunecmibe, Hon. J. F., 61. 62. 75. 109.
567. 581. Dungan, W. S.. 578. Dunham, G. L., 448. Duluth. 23. Durion, M., 40.
E.
Eastwood, Carl, 447. Fdmuufls. TJev. Geo.. 324. Edwards, George, 426. Egralharve, 551. Eighmy, Rev. P. H., 458. Elk, The Last in Iowa, 382. Ellis, Ethel, 232, 2.59. Ellis. J. A.. 429, 433. 466. 484. Election, First, 169, 182.
592
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
Emerson, Samuel, 324. Emerson, T., 324. Enselert, Eev. A., 463. Enlistments in Capt. Mai'tin's Com- pany, 184, Enlistments from this County, 232. Enos, J. L., 367. Estes, C. L., 209. Evans, James, 231, 232. Evans. C. H., 231, 232, 363. Everett, C E., 502. Everett, Mrs. J. S., 470. Everett, Dr., 480. Evergreen Sabbath School, 464. Evans, Sam., 231. Expeditions Against the Indians — •
Sully's, 275.
Sibley's, 284.
Fahs, Rev. D. W., 461. Fairchild, Anna, 366. Fairchild, G., 364. Farmers' Co-operative Co., 510. Farnham, David, 323. Farmer, Nevrton, 232. Farmers' Alliance, 556. Fqriners' Institutes, 556. Farmers' Mutual Insurance Co., 557. Farnham, Mrs. L. H., 470 . "Favorite," 405, 406. Fay, Eev. Eandall, 512. Fegtly, Rev.. 487. First "Eank, 426. 429. First Boats, 400, 401, 406. First County Officers, 169. First Dry Goods Store, 420. First Election, 169.
First Family After the Massacre, 178. First Funeral, 189. First Hotel, 420. First mail route, 186. First Physician, 210. First Postoffice, 186. First Religious Meeting, 161. First Social Event, 418. First School, 206. First Teachers, 206. First Term of Court, 206. First White Child Born in the Coun- ty, 189. First Young Ladies, 189. Fish and Game Warden, 393. Fish Car, 393. Fish Commissioner, 389. Fish Commissioner Assistant, 389. Fish Laws, 390.
Fish Shanties, 391.
Fitch, Rev. L. R., 489.
Flandrau, Hon. C. E., 28, 35, 122, 130,
132, 141, 238, 241, 250, 272, 282, 286,
577. Flatt, W. B., 323. "Foam,"' 400, 401, 408. Fool Dog, Indian Guide, 276. Ford, WuT., 84.
Foreman. S. W., 148, 159, 414. Fort Dodge, 31, 148. Fort Dodge Point, 540. Fort Ridgley, 121, 143, 240, 242. Fort, The Old, 160. Foster, A. D., 331, 334. Foster, I. S., 480, 481, 486. Foster, Mrs. I. S., 478. Francis, John, 208, 232. Francis, T. J., 364, 400, 467. Frantz, H., 419. Fremont, General J. C, 43. Freeman, Rev. C. E., 461. Freeman, H. C, 322. Freeman, E., 322, 477. Freeman, Randolph, 323. Frothingham, Rev. H. J., 461. Fuel Question, 326. Funk, Mrs. A. B., 470. Funk, Hon. A. B., 435, 443, 472. Fulton, Hon. A. R., 23, 29, 38, 40, 54,
261. Furber, Lawrence, 154, 162, 397. Fur Business, 289.
G.
Gaboo, Jo.. 125.
Game, Disappearance of, 376.
Gardner, Rowland, 45, 65, 67, 89, 98.
Gardner, Eliza, 64. 117, 155.
Gardner, Rev., 489.
Gardner, W. S., 510, 511.
Gear, Gov. J. H., 516, 537.
Getchell, G. A., 448.
Gilbraith, W. C,. 55, 57.
Gillett Bros., 58, 61.
Gilbert, John P., 188, 202, 208, 290,
431. Gilbert, Fred, 532. Gilbertson, Ole, 324. Gillett, Miss Emma, 480. Gilley. Wm. M., 548. Gilley's Beach, 548. Given, Judge J. A.. 537, 552. Gleason, Elder, 487. Goppelt, Rev. A., 463. Godfrey, Mr., 406. Granger, Wm., 45. 46. 157, 414.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX
593
Granger, Carl, 45, 89. Grasshoppers, 342. Grimes, Gov. J. W., 51, 75, Green, J. A., 317. Griggs, Jut, 390. Great Divide, 292, 307. Green & Patch, 509. Green, M. D., 509, 510. Green, Rev. H. B., 458. Green, Dr. J. E., 484. Gunsauhis, Rev. F., 475. Guthrie, D. N., 483.
H.
Hackett, John, 405.
Hagerty, J. W., 557.
Hall, E. G., 485.
Hamilton, Rev., 512.
Harney, General, 54.
Harriott, Dr. I. H., 45, 63, 65, 67, 88,
98, 157. Harris, 325. Harshman, Joseph, 88. Harvey, Rev. C. W., 489. Harvey t.c Truesdale, 502. Haskins, Geo., 425. Hathaway, Rev., 487. Haugen, 324. Hawkins, J. D., 159. Hayward, \Vm., 435, 550'. Hayden, John, 51'5. Heath, A. F., 443, 447. Heldredge, James, 317. Heldredge, E. E., 485. Hender.'-ou, A. A.. 400. 403. 5fi3. Henderson, E. O., 400, 405, 411, 563. Henderson, Zina, 308, 397. Henderson, Robert, 188, 232. "Hiawatha," 408, 410, 411. Hickey, James, 159. Hilbert, George, 364. Hild, Rev., 505.
Hill, C. F., 150, 153, 161, 171, 202, 207. Hill, Emmett F., 444. Highest Land in Iowa, 534. 535. Hippee, Geo. M.. 516; Hogle, M. C, 512. Holcomb, L. E., 322. Homestead Law, 210, 303, 319. Hoover, Harris, 110, 111. Hood. Andrew. 213. Hopkins, R. J., 412. Hopkins, Mrs. G. P., 462. Horn, G., 325. Hopkins, R. S., 325. Hoton Washta, 136.
House, Major, 278.
Howell, Col. E. P., .522, 523.
Howe, Joel, 45. 46, 64, 68, 86.
Howe, Johnathan, 64.
Howe, J. D., 189, 212, 260, 417.
Howe, O. C. 49. 70, S4. 90, 147, 150. 170,
197, 206, 232, 259, 414, 417, 563. Howe, Mrs. O. C, 415. Howe, Miss Sarah. 189, 418. HoM-e, Miss Mary. 189, 206, 362, 418. Hunter, Dr., 148. "Huntress." 410. Hunter's Lodge, 517. Kurd, D. E.. 511. Hurd, W. W., 511. Hutchison, J. W., 523. Hubbard, Hon. A. W., 197, 206, 361. Hyde, Rev. Wm., 211, 304.
I.'
"Illinois," 410, 411.
Indian Scares, 160.
Indian Medical Practice, 200.
Indian, Last (uie killed in Iowa, 22S.
Indians of Iowa, 17-21.
Ingham, Harvey, 32, 33, 37.
Ingham, Hon. S. R., 264, 269.
Inkpadutah, 33, 34, 37, 50, 53, G5. Ill,
144, 273, 414. Inman, A. D., 317. 332, 476. Inman, S. E., 476, 482. "Inn, The," 548. Institiite Teachers, 367. Institute, Farmers, 556. "Iowa," 410, 411. "Irma," 411. Ishtahaba, 33, 53, 111.
Jacobs, John, 512, 513. .Taynes, D. T.. 477. Jenkins, John, 232. Jenkins, Wm., 306. Jenkins, Wm. G., 232. Jemerson, Robert, 427, 444. Johnson, Capt. J. C, 86, 90, 103, 106. Johnson. A. M.. 322, 427. 428, 439, 441.
465. Johnson, R. C. & John, 322. Johnson, J., 324. Johnston, J. S.. 290. 431, 467. Jones. Rev. J. W., 211, 304. Jones, Isaac, 177. Jones, Burgess, 366. Jones, O. S., 429. .Tustice. A. C. 364.
594
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
19S, 232. 255 2?)0. 260, 410.
K.
Keene, Abel, 210. Keister, TJev., 487, 505. Kellogg-, E. D., 84, 108. Kellogg, Geo., 232. Kellson, Louis, 542. Kendall, ("apt.. 4().s. Kessey, Chris, 4S2. Keyes. Prof. Charles^ 39 J\inney, Joseph, 324. Kilpatriok, James, 322. Kilpatrick, John, 322. Kirby, Rev., 464, 491. Kirkwood. Oov. Samuel.
270. Kimball, Mr., 374. Kiugs. Kev. F. E., 4,S7. King, W. F., 509. Kingman, A., 1S9.
418, 520. Kingman, R.. 159, Kingman, Mrs. E., 415. Kirchner, J. A., 71. , Kitts, H. H., 502. Kleibenstein. L. F., 512. Knight, F. E., 485. Knowlton, Jerrj', 317. Knowlton. Levi, 477. Knox, C. B., 495, 496. Koester & Co., 502.
L.
Lndn, Peter. 208, 232.
Ladd, Chas., 324.
Lady of the Lake, 397, .'^^98, 401.
La Frombois. Joseph. 125. 276,
Lakeville Settlement, 317.
Lake Park, 495.
Lake Park News, 504.
Lake Park P. O., 509.
Lapham, Rev. T. E. S., 489.
Lawton, Miss Helen. 480.
Lakes, level of 340.
Laniliert, Wiley. 322.
Lamont, Wm., i')4, Ibl.
Lamont, Rev., 304.
La Salle, 22.
Laughlin, Wm. K., 34, i')5.
Legend of Spirit Lak-?, 291.
Leggett. William, 362.
"Lelia," 408.
Leman, J. R.. 557.
Lemon, M. W., 325.
Lewis & Clarke, 23, 40.
Lewis, Ludwig, 363.
Lilly white, Wm.. 519,
;4. 263, 2C8.
261
Lilly^vhite's Lodge, 519.
Lincoln, President, 249.
Literary Societies, 291.
Little Crow, 143, 240. 243, 246, 250, 273.
■Linder, John, 509, 510.
Lloyd. John. 324.
Lott, Henry, 29, 34.
Lott, Milton. 30.
Lounsberry, Rev. D. W., 500.
Lovesee & Hurd, 440.
Luccok. Rev. G. N., 460.
Luce, Harvey, 46, 64, 66, 85, 89, 365.
Lund, H. R.,"493.
lAisian, J., 324.
Lymer. E. E., 458.
Lyon. D. P,.. 543.
M.
MacBride, Prof. T. H.. 9, 11, 540.
Madison, Robert, 46, 88, ISO, 181.
Mail Routes, 187, 188.
Mallory, Rev. W. W^, 211.
"Manhattan," 410.
Manhattan Beach, 543.
Manitoba & Gulf R. R., 513.
Mapeson, Rev. Joseph, 507.
Martin, Capt. Henry, 184, 198.
Martin's Company, 198, 203, 205, 260.
Marble, Wm., 45, 70.
Marble. Mrs. 70, 129.
:Markham, Morris, 47, 72, 82, 113. 154.
Marsh, Capt., 238.
"Martha Wasnington,
397, 398, 40C.
Mascoutins, 19.
Mason, Frank, 82, 109.
ISIattock, James, 45, 88, 181.
INIatthesen, M. M., 420.
]\[atthesen, G., 232. 490. •
^latthesen. John, 477.
Maxwell. David, 232.
Maxwell, Lieut J. X.. 80, 84, 90, 95.
106, 111. May, D. C, 502, 509. Mazaintemani, 136, 139, 247. McCormick. R., 84. McCulla, Robert, 325. McCaferee, Rev. T. J., 458. McCauley, Rev. P., 464, 490. :\rcCutchin, R. C, 476. 485. McDonald, Rev. H. P.. 461. McDonald, Rev. W. T., 458. ]McElroA\ Bishop, 462. McTntosh, Rev. J. E.. 489. 490. McLean, Rev. C. 211, 303. :\rc:Millen, Miss Sarah, 189. Mead, A. S., 56, 61, 417. ^lead. Frank, 232. 385.
ALrilABETICAL INDEX
)95
.\:ead, L., 318.
Medary, (iov. Samuel, 138.
Meeker, H., 231, 331.
Megan, Rev. Win., 460.
Mensing, Rev. E. W., 4G3.
Merrill, S. S., 374.
Meyers. H. C, 510.
Middleton, A. W., 467.
Middleton, Robert, 322.
Middleton, . S. P., 322, 467.
Middleton, Henry, 322.
Middleton, George, 322, 48::.
Middleton, Louise, 498.
Milford, 476.
Milford Mail. 484. 48^
Milford Post Office, 4SG.
^lilford Library Association, 47'.).
Millard, Capt. A. J., 232, 260, 2();>.
Miller, Moses, 154.
Miller, Wm., 177.
Miller, H. A., 436.
Miller. Mrs. H. A., 470.
Miller's Bay, 527, 532.
Miller, Eli, 477.
Miller, Edmond, 477.
Mills, S. E., 541.
Militai'y Commission, 248.
Minnesota Massacre, 237.
Minnesota R. R. Grant, 152.
Minute Men. 226.
Missionaries, 129.
Mitchell', David, 511.
Mitchell, Rev. Bennett, 458. 487.
Moore, D. C, 322.
[Morgan, J., 325.
Morse, H. N., 323.
Morse, G. W., 323.
Mosher, A. A., 318. 389, 398. 403. 444,
663. Mott, P. S., 431. Mott, G. D., 323. Moore, Rev. F. L., 487. Mowers, N., 487. Murray, Leiut., S3, 121. Murray, Jonas, 84, 106, 108. Musical Association, 465. Myers, W. H., 494.
N.
ISaming the Lakes, 166. Nason, Orin, 186. Needham. G. S.. 322. 464, Nelson, J. P., 512, 513. Nelson, 252. Nelson, P., 325. "Neutral Ground," 25. New Ulm, 239, 241.
465.
Nicollet, J., 22. 41.
Nicol, R. B., 322, 367, 480, 485, 486.
Nicol, Clark, 322.
Nicholson, George, 495.
Nims, H. C, 425.
Noble, Alvin, 69. ^
Noble, Mrs., 69, 131.
Norby, Oscar, 325.
Norheim, H. J., 493.
Northern Border Brigade. 26G.
Norton, Rev. M.
K.,
0.
231,
464. 490.
541.
462
OTarrell, J. W.,
O'Farrell, G. A., 493.
O'Farrell, Henry. 232.
Okoboji Township. 181.
Okoboji Park, 540."
"Okoboji Star," 398.
"Okoboji." 411.
Okoboji Postoffice, 541.
Olds. Rev., 505.
Old Red Mill. 179.
Olesen, E. J., 511.
Oldham, Wm., 180.
"Old Tub," 398.
Orleans Hotel, 521.
Osborn, A. W., 368. 431, 446.
Organizing the Coimty, 169.
Osborn, E. V., 231, 309, 310, 403
Osborn Roswell, 489.
Owen, H. C, 232.
Owen, H. L., 432.
Owen, Robert, 446.
Palmer. Kber, 232. 427. 443, 444.
Palmer, Jareb, 159, 189, 206, 232.
Pa Ulster, John, 408.
Parmenter, B. F., 49, 74, 84. 90. 147, 150,
154, 170, 189, 201, 212, 213, 413. Peck, Benjamin, 322. Peters, James S., 179. "Petrel," 400.
Perkins, D. A. W., 311, 357. Pegdon, Thomas, 322. Phippin, Samuel, 232. Pierce. P. P., 325. Pillsbury. Rev. S., 288, 323. Pillsbury, W. F., 363, 368. Pilhsburv, Miss Esther. 365. Pillsbury. Miss S. E.. 365.
Postotfices —
Spirit Lake. 186, Okoboji, 187, 541. :Milford, 486. Austin, 509. Lake Park. 509.
442.
;9()
DICKINSON COUNTY
IOWA
Superior, 511.
Terrill, 515. Poorman, Daniel, 188. I'olk. ,T. S., 259. Piatt, Joshua, 317. I'ratt, Geo. W., 317. Prescott, J. S., 149, 15S, 161.
201, 207, 210, 212, 230, 331. Prescott, Wm., 232. Preston, Eev. Wm., 211. Price, A. A., 317. Preemption Law, 319. I'urcell Brothers, 227. I'ursuit of Indians, 126.
Q.
"Queen," 406, 408, 411. "Queen of the West,"' 398.
R.
"Rain in the Face," 146. Ramsey, (iov. A., 244. Railroads —
C, M. & St. P., 330, 371, 406.
St. P. & S. C, 319, 330.
B., C. E. & N., 405. Randall, G. S., 324. Rasmussen, C, 366. Rescue of Mrs. Sharp, 135. Reo-atta, 401. i^ieligious Revival, 305. Read, Chauncey, 318. Reiter, M., 325\ Reiter, C. 325. Revcroft & Flower, 448. Richards, Rev. W. A., 211. Richman, Hon. irvino- R., 22. Richards, Capt. C. B., 76, ]()9. Ring-, George, 68, 189. Ring, E. P., 232, 426, 428. Ring-, L. F., 232. Ring, Addie, 210. Risling. Philip. ISO, ]S9. 260. Rice, Orson, 446. Riley, D. L., 433. Ridley, Theresa, 366. "River Queen," 408, 412. Roaring Cloud, 131, 141, 142. Robbins, G., 255. Robb, James, 322. Robb, John, 322. Robb. Pat, 206. Roff, F. C.. 404, 410. Roller Skate Craze, 434. Rogers, G. W., 159, 232.
Rogers, Samuel, .Jr., 232. Rogers, Samuel, 363. Rogers, G. D., 232. Rogers, C. H., 364. Romantic Wedding Trip, 312. Root, Wm. E., 210. 189, Riift", T. S., 189.
Ryan Entjch, 47, 64, 69, 85.
S.
Sacs and Foxes, 17.
Sailboats, 396.
Samson's Lodge, 520.
Sanl)orn, (i. W., 374.
Sanford. O., 32(5.
Sarizine, O., 464.
Saunderson, Rev. F., 458.
Sawmill, First, 177, 416.
Sawmill (Prescott's), 201, 208. 258.
Savage, O., 325.
Sawyers, James A., 260, 265, 270.
Sawyer, A. L., 321, 431.
Sawyer. G. A. and C. E.. 322.
Saxe, A. G., 324.
Scheitz, Rev. E. H., 463.
Schuneman, Henry, 189, 232, 417.
Schools, 206, 360. "
Seymour, Foster & Co., 334.
Seymour, T. S., 371.
Seymour, Mrs., 478, 488.
Sharp, Mrs. A. G., 54, 56. 65, 66. 11 '^
114, 124, 127, 138, 567, 573, 579. Shackleford, J., 232. Shaffer, D. M., 515. Sharkey & McNary, 514. Sheehan, Lieut.. 240. Sherman, George B., 78. Sherburne, Geo., 485. Shipman, H. H., 477. Shimer, Dr. Henry, 501. Shoemaker, Rev. H. H., 487, 505. Shultz, C. S., 509. Sibley, Gen. H. H., 244, 246, 277, 281. Sidominadotah, 29, 31, 34. Sioux, 21.
Sioux City Cavalry, 232, 255. 260. 262 Sixth Iowa Cavalry, 278, 279 Skinner, Dr., 112. Skirving, James, 318. Skirving, John, 318. Sloan. S. G., 581. Sloan, Rev. C. S., 489, 512. Smeltzer, C. C. 159, 206. Smith, Rev. Joel A.. 458. Smithland. 53. Smith, George P.. 84. 106. 108.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX
597
f^mith, Don B., 551.
Smith, Ellis, 322.
Smith, John, 230, 563.
Smith, J. A., 344, 381, 445, 44G. 4G7, 485.
Smith, Joseph A., 443.
Smith, Kev. J. J., 464.
Smith, J. B., 324.
Smith, Kev. H. L., 487.
Smith, Leonard, 322.
Smith, M. J., 187, 189, 232, 261, 366.
Smith, E. A., 563, 567, 573, 579.
Smith, Miss Myra, 189, 206, 363. 364.
Smith, Wallace, 317, 383, 481.
Smith, Wm. M., 426, 429.
Smith's Cottage, 527, 537.
Snow, F. N., 323.
Sn^'^der, Bertel, 45, 65, 67, 88, 157.
Snyder, J., 324.
Snyder, Eev. Seymour, 211. 304, 31S.
Snj'der, M., 425," 426, 429.
Sod Shanties, 328.
Soper, R. Iv., 389.
Sonth Beach Co., 552.
Spirit Lake. Town of, 413.
Spirit Lake Town Site, 259, 413, 422.
Spirit Lake & Sionx Valley R. R. Com- pany, 370.
Spencer, George E., 148, 151, 417.
Spencer, Gustave, 148.
Spencer, O. S., 84, 106.
"Spook," 398, 401. .^
Springfield Indians, 112. Stanr & Co., 484. Stebbins, C, 84. Stetson, R. K., 322. Stevens, S. E., 102. Stevens, B. F., 436, 437, 526. Stevens, S., 437. Stevens, Block, 437. Stevens, Mrs. E. A., 47L'. Stewart, J. O., 447. Stewart, 112. Strathnian, Theo., 504, 509. Strathman & Bock, 502. Stratton, Lient. F. A., 102, 10). Stinehart, J., 324. Stjmpson, L. A., 180, 232. 334. Stockdale & Bahls, 501. Stone, Dan, 427. Stoltenberg, L;'502, 509. Stout, A. v., 581. St owe, L. F., 448. Stowe, W. W., 322, 462. Stowe, Mrs. W. W., 462. Snmmer Resorts, 516, 527. Snlly, General Alfred, 262, 279, 281, 284.
Summer School of Botany, 540.
Supervisors, 562.
Supervisors, First Board of, 230.
Superior, 510.
Survey, (Jovernnient, 209.
Superior News, 511.
Swanger, Miss Ursula, 81, 116.
Swamp Lands, 212.
"Swan," 401.
Sweeney, Michael, 109.
T.
Taft, G. A., 448. Talmage, T. D., 475. Taylor, Frank, olO. Taylor, Joseph Henry, 145. I'aylor, E. E., 513. Taylor, E., 56. Taylor, W. F., 556. Taylor & Ewert, 514. Tem])lar I'ark, 451. Telegram, 581. Templar, 412. Terrill, 513. "J'errill Tribune, 515. Thatcher, J. M., 45, 64, Thatcher, Mrs., 69, 128. Theories as to Cause
Outbreak, 272, 273.
84, 90.
of Minnesota
272,
Thomas, Mr., and Family, 81, 112, 115.
Thomas, Mrs. A. J., 573, 581.
Thomas, Joseph, 421.
Thornton, Samuel, 148.
Thomas, S. M., 502.
Tnompson, Mrs. Henry, 462.
Thompson, Moses, 460.
Thompson, A'm., 501, 509.
Tierney, Rev. P. A., 464, 491.
Tinkham, 477.
Tinkham, Mrs. C, 488.
Titonka, 33.
Tompkins, Clayton, 309, 311.
Torson's Trip on Snowshoes. 1S7.
Tortensen, C, 494.
Town.'-end, C. E., 548.
Townships Named, 324, 325.
Tretts, Charlie, 113.
Trowbridge, T.. 512.
'J'rowbridge. William, 548.
Trueblood. O. C, 513.
Tutin, F. W., .509.
Tuttle, J. T., 325.
Tuttle, J. R. & H.. 325.
Twiford, T. L., 432, 467.
U.
Ulrich. C. E., 494. I'mpashota. 33, 205, 296.
598
DICKINSON COUNTY
IOWA
Uptagraft, Wm., Upton, Eev. J. E.
318. 368, 460, 479, 488,
V.
500.
Valuation, 559. Yalier, Rev.
, 507. .1. A., 2 84.
L., 494. B. B.,
10, 304.
Van Anda, Eev. Van Cleave, S., A'an Housen, D Van Steenburg", B. B., 335, 371. 397,
401, 429, 433, 464. Van Steenburg, Mrs. D. F., 462. Van Steenburg, H., 448, 557. Vic-k, Peter, 325, 462. Vreeland, L. J.. 322, 384. ^'reelant^, L. W., 322, 384. Vreeland, Wm., 322. Vreeland, Mrs. Wm.. 4C2.
W.
Wade, Samuel, 255. 261. Waas, Eev. C. W., 463. Waller, Samuel, 477. Walker, Samuel, 322. 'Wallace, George, 317. Wamdisappi, 28, 29. 'Warner, C, 20'S. Warner, Norton, 232. Wasson, H. I., 363. Watterson, Hon. Henry, 475. Waugh, L. W., 219, 318, 398. Waug-h, Miss Ardella, 364. Waugh, Miss Arietta, 364. Weatherby, Eev. A., 489. Welch, A. J., 325. Webber, Eev. E. L., 489.
Wernli. J., 36S. West, Eev. A. M., 461. West, C. E., 322. West, G. M., 512. 'Whalen, E. C, 472, 474. Wheelei-. Mr., 311
Wheelock, E. U., 49, 70, 74, SS, 90, . 147, 15.4, 189, 259, 413, 417, 442. Wheelock,'' Miss Belle, 189, 418. AVhite, G. A., 485. Whitelaw. Eev. W. H., 460. White Stone Hill, Battle of. 262. 278,
279. Whitlock, J. T., 444. Williams, Major Wm., 33, 34. 50. (11.
75, 80, 84. 104, 108, 111. Wilcox, E. L., 398. 444, 446. Wilcox, E. E., 288, 333. Wilkinson, John, 324. Wilkinson, Mrs. J.. 488. W'ilkins. Alfred, 170, 175. 209. Willard. A., 443, 444. Wilson, Wm. E., 84. 88, 90. 155. Wilson & Dye, 215. AVinev. S. A.. 557. Wilson. W. S., 543. Wise, Homer, 476. Wood, George, 112. Wood, Wm., 112. Wood. B. F., 487. Woodin, N. J., 323. Woolery, Eev., 50'o. Wvckolf, Thomas, 425. W'vlde, n. L., 510, 512.
Y. Yacht Eaces. 398. ^'acht Club. 401.
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