F

The J. B. Tyrrell Library
Beguenthed to the
University of Toronto Library
bu
Joseph Burr Turrell
MA., LED, F-RSL..,

F.6.S., F.H.S.2.
®raduate of the University of Toronto,

and emitent Canadien geologist,

explorer, and selrolar

d inne # lovicultae

A Practical Guide
to the treatment of

FLOWERING and OTHER
ORNAMENTAL PLANTS

In the Flouse and

Garden

By EBEN E. REXFORD

Illustrated

New York
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
1916

CoryRiGuT 1890
by
JAMES VICK SEEDSMAN

CorpyRIGHT 1903
by
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY

SB
405
Rub

6'71209

Aare

Printed in the U. S. 4

BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION

This book is a book for amateur floriculturists
written by one who is in no sense a “professional.”
It has been written because there is a constant and
increasing demand for a work that treats on flowers
from the standpoint of the amateur, An extensive
correspondence with flower-loving persons, all over
the country, has convinced me that scientific text
books are not what is wanted.

What is wanted is plain, practical, easily under-
stood information which will enable those who love
flowers, but know very little about them, to grow
them successfully, I have confidence esough in the
book to believe that those who read it will find it easy
to understand and that those who fw:low out its in-
structions will be able to grow all tne plants treated
in it and grow them well.

It has been written from my own personal expe-
rience among flowers and not from theory. My way
may not be the best way. I do not claim that. I
judge it simply by its results, which have been very
satisfactory to me.

I do not desire to have it t.nderstood that I send
out this book as a sort of shore cut to complete flori-
cultural knowledge. It is siniply intended to assist
the amateur in the acquirement of such a knowledge
which can only come from intelligent personal study
and observation which will lead to a better acquaint-
ance and a closer friendship with:

Our Friends, the Flowers.

Esren E. REXFORD.
Shiocton, Wis, January, 1903. Vv

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION PAGE

CHAPTER I

Soil for Plants in Pots , : 2 I
CHAPTER II
Potting : C y . : 7
CHAPTER III
Watering Plants : : ‘ ; 12
CHAPTER IV
Care of Plants in the Window . . . . . 15
CHAPTER V
The Propagation of Plants : : ; * ‘ 20
CHAPTER VI
Training Plants By ac 84 oe ‘ 24
CHAPTER VII
Insects and How to Fight Them . y . . ‘ 28
CHAPTER VIII
Care of House Plants During Summer and Fall ; 32
CHAPTER IX
Fertilizers : A : . ‘ F . : . 38
CHAPTER X
Diseased Plants 5 J - ; “ : : . 4o
CHAPTER XI
Winter Precautions 3 : - = - F = 44
CHAPTER XII
Resting Plants : : : ¢ 4e
CHAPTER XIII
Miscellaneous Hints : : : ‘ A 5 ; 50
CHAPTER XIV
Plants Adapted to Window Culture : : ~ = 55

CHAPTER XV :
The Plumbago, Oleander, Agapanthus, Ageratum,

Stevia and Eupatorium = : . : : : 38
vl

viii TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER XVI
Primulas A , : 5 :
CHAPTER XVII
The Mahernia, Browallia, Pyrethrum, Impatiens Sul-
tani and Lantana ; 3 6
CHAPTER XVIII
The Petunia, Rhynchospermum, Heliotrope and
Oxalis Z : : 5 i
CHAPTER XIX
Achania, Hibiscus, Cyclamen and the Jasmines
CHAPTER XX
The Calla, Salvia, Bouvardia and Genista
CHAPTER XXI
The Amaryllis, Vallota, Gloxinia and Tuberous Begonia
CHAPTER XXII
The Abutilon, Mimulus, Cineraria and Calceolaria
CHAPTER XXIII
The Hydrangea, Daphne, Olea fragrans and Myrtle
CHAPTER XXIV
Swainsonia, Justicia, Linum trigynum, Clivia, Bou-
gainvillea, Marguerite, Pentas, Tropaeolum and
Euphorbia : ‘ : ; ;
CHAPTER XXV

The Abutilon, Begonia and Rose : : 3 :
CHAPTER XXVI
Azaleas and Camellias. : : ; 5

CHAPTER XXVII
Geraniums and Pelargoniums
CHAPTER XXVIII
The Carnation and the Fuchsia - ‘ 2 .

CHAPTER XXIX
The Chrysanthemum : : :
CHAPTER XXX
Palms : : . :
CHAPTER XXXI

Ferns

PAGE

63

67

71
77°
83
89

97

104

149

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER XXXII
Miscellaneous Decorative Plants

CHAPTER XXXIII
Vines for House Culture :

CHAPTER XXXIV
Basket Plants ‘
CH: \PTER XXXV
Bulbs for Winter Flowering

CHAPTER XXXVI
Appliances for the Amateur’s Use
; CHAPTER XXXVII
Small Greenhouses : : : 4
CHAPTER XXXVIII
Garden Making and Seed Sowing

CHAPTER XXXIX
The Best Annuals

CHAPTER XL

Bedding Plants and Plants for Tropical Effect

CHAPTER XLI
Tea Roses for Beds - ; A
CHAPTER XLII
The Dahlia : 3 : ; ;
CHAPTER XLIII
The Tuberose and the Gladiolus :
CHAPTER XLIV
Hardy Border Plants : A ”
CHAPTER XLV
Spring-flowering Bulbs : : 7
CHAPTER XLVI
Hardy Roses = : 2 : ;
CHAPTER XLVII
Vines . "3 c 2 - :
CHAPTER XLVIII
Lilies . 2 E ; = :
CHAPTER XLIX
Shrubs, and How to Plant Them
CHAPTER L
Rockeries . . é Z :
CHAPTER LI
After Thoughts - : A E

=
a

PDN Map Din

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

: PAGE
Eben E. Rexford: “2. 9 eS Frontispiece
Parlor Syringe : é " é. c - 18
Elastic Plant Sprinkler ; - 2 2 : 18
Fountain Pump : A n 7 : = 19
Saucer Propagation . C E 21
Begonia Leaf Producing “Young Plants 22
A Tastefully Arranged Plant Window 26
Bay Window with Glazed Doors . 52
Swinging Iron Brackets and Window Shelf 53
Cluster of Agapanthus Flowers 60
Single Chinese Primrose . 64
Bouquet of Single and Double Petunias 72
Oxalis Rosea 5 ; 75
The Persian Cyclamen ; 5 B : A 79
Calla Blossoms and Leaves. 2 : : 3 83
The Genista : 87
Prominent Types of “Amaryllis 90
Vallota Purpurea : : E ; - g2
Hybrid Gloxinias . : 4 . 04
Specimen Cineraria Plant é : 101
Specimen Calceolaria Plant 103
Hydrangea Otaksa . 105
Single and Double Tuberous "Begonias 113
A Well-Grown Azalea 119
Group of Double Geraniums 123
Mrs George M. Bradt Carnations 128
Daybreak Carnations ; 5 é A 129
Single Stem Chrysanthemum Iora S A ; 135
Chrysanthemum Mrs Perrin . : ~ ore 136
Latania Borbonica 5S 5 4 ; - 142
Areca Lutescens > : 5 : d é a 143
Cocos Weddelliana < : S % 144
Kentia Belmoreana . . : s : : 145
Phoenix Reclinata : 146
Rhapis Humilis : 148
The Boston Fern = 152
Araucaria Excelsa : 156
Aspidistra Lurida Variegata ‘ 158
Asparagus Sprengeri é 160
Dracaena Brasiliensis : 162

xi

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Ficus Elastica .

The Screw Pine A

Artistically Arranged Bay Window
German Ivy and Fern Basket
Saxifraga Sarmentosa

The Bermuda Lily

Roman Hyacinth

Types of Narcissus .

Bunch of Lily of the Valley

The Neapolitan Allium

Hand Pruning Shears

Serviceable Weeding Implements
Folding Plant Stand ;
The Author's Greenhouse es
Effective Planting of Annual Vines
Annuals in a Backyard Garden
Tropical Effect from Ricinus and Other Annuals
The Eulalia or Zebra Grass : : :
Yucca Filamentosa

Tea Rose Catherine Mermet

Types of Single Dahlias

Types of Double Dahlias

The Pearl Tuberose :

Types of Improved Gladiolus
The Allegheny Hollyhock

Types of Japanese Iris
Fine-Leaved Paeony

Types of Tulips

Crimson Rambler Rose.

The Golden-banded Lily .
Group of the Hardy Hydrangea
The American Elder :

A Tasteful Window Box

HOME FLORICULTURE

CHAPTER I

SOIL FOR PLANTS IN POTS

Two mistakes are to be avoided by the amateur
floriculturist. That of thinking that plants in pots will
grow well in any kind of soil is one of them. This idea
originates from an observation of the comparatively
satisfactory development of plants in the-garden, whose
soil seems to be of only ordinary fertility. If plants
do well in such a soil, when grown in the garden beds,
why will they not do as well in the same soil, in a
pot, the amateur asks himself. He sees no reason
why they should not. But the fact is, they will not.
Out in the garden they are growing under natural
conditions, where they get the benefit of fresh air, and
dew, and sunshine, and can attract to themselves nutri-
ment from all sides. The result is far different from
what it would be if we were to attempt to grow
plants in this soil, in pots, because, in the latter case,
all conditions are changed materially. To grow plants
well in pots the soil must be rich, and the amateur,
to be successful, must not make the mistake of think-
ing that any soil will answer the purpose.

The other mistake is this: That each plant must
have a soil specially prepared for it. It may be

2 HOME FLORICULTURE

advisable to adapt the soil to the nature of the plant
grown in it, to some extent, in special instances,
but, as a general thing, nearly all plants advisable for
house culture will do themselves full justice if given
the same kind of soil. The plants that fail to do this,
in any really good soil, are the exceptions which
prove the rule. But because they will do this is no
good reason why they should be obliged to do it if we
can grow them more satisfactorily by giving them the
kind of soil they have an especial liking for.

Right here the question may come up in the mind
of the amateur florist, How am I to know just what
kind of soil a plant likes best? To this I would
answer, that we cannot know, positively, until we have
had some experience with the plant, but an examina-
tion of its roots will generally give us a pretty good
idea of the character of the soil best adapted to it.
If a plant has few roots, and those are large ones, as
a ‘general thing, a rather close, firm soil will suit it
better than a light, spongy one. Those having hard,
wiry roots, like the Rose, nearly always prefer a soil
containing considerable clay—one that will make itself
firm and compact about the roots. Plants like Primula
obconica, and Heliotrope, whose roots are almost hair-
like in their fineness, do much the best in a light soil
containing a good deal of fibrous matter, or, if that
is lacking, a liberal proportion of sand, which will
prevent the heavier elements from packing down under
the action of water, and becoming uncomfortably
compact and impenetrable.

The best general purpose soil I have ever used was
made as follows: One part ordinary garden loam; one
part turfy matter scraped from the lower part of sods,
containing all the fine grass roots possible to secure
with it; one part of well-rotted manure and sand, half
and half. If leaf mold can be obtained, it can be used

SOIL FOR PLANTS IN POTS 3

instead of the turf scrapings. We hear a great deal
said about its superiority over other light and spongy
soils, but there is really but very little difference
between it and turfy soil, since both are composed
largely of vegetable matter. In one case, leaves. decay,
and furnish food for plant growth, and in the other
the grass roots rot and supply nutriment. Leaf mold
gives more immediate effects, because it is clready
decayed, while turf soil must have time in which to
decay before it is fully available.

I have spoken of well-rotted manure. That from
the cow yard is best, and it should be so old as to
be black and friable. On no account should fresh
manure be used. It will always injure a plant. Hen
manure is too strong, unless used in small quantities.
If used at all, it should be experimented with carefully.
Horse manure is too heating. Guano is better, but
care must be exercised in the use of it, as its strength
is not always alike, therefore no hard-and-fast rule
as to the quantity to be mixed with the soil can be
given. Finely-ground bone meal I have found to be
the best substitute, all things considered, for old cow
manure. It is rich in the elements of plant growth,
is easily obtainable by those who would find it difficult
to procure barnyard manure, is pleasant to handle, and
perfectly safe, provided it is not used in excessive
quantities. A pound of it to the amount of soil that
would fill a bushel basket would make the compost
very rich, and I would advise using a smaller quan-
tity to begin with. Watch the effect on the plants
grown in the soil containing it. If they do not take on
the luxuriant growth you would like to have them,
small quantities of the bone meal can be added to the
soil in the pots by digging it in about their roots.
Personally, I prefer it to cow manure, for the reason
that worms are never bred in the soil from it, while

4 HOME FLORICULTURE

the use of barnyard fertilizers is almost sure to
introduce worms which cannot be got rid of easily.

The use of any fertilizer must be attended with
caution. An overdose of food often kills a plant.
A plant in too rich a soil gets a sort of vegetable
dyspepsia, because it is unable to digest properly the
strong food given it, and the result of its continued
use brings on a debilitated condition from which death
ultimately ensues. It is a safe plan to have the soil
of only moderate richness, and supply stronger food
from time to time, as the plant indicates a need for
it. In this way we grow our best plants. Their
development can be made steady and healthful under
such conditions, while too rich a soil forces a rapid,
weak growth which is sure to give us unhealthy plants.

Many cannot understand why it is necessary to
add sand to the soil for pot plants. The reason for
using it is this: The soil in a pot is quite likely to
become heavy from repeated waterings. In a heavy,
compact soil the roots do not have a good chance to
grow. The air which they require is not admitted
readily. If sand is mixed with the other portions
of the compost, it makes it light, friable and porous.
It allows the water to run through readily, and where
the water can move in this way the air can find its
way in. If you use good, sharp sand in your potting
soil you will seldom find it becoming sour, if drainage
is provided. If you do not use it, you will often find
it soggy and sticky, and in most cases where it is
discovered to be in this condition you will see that the
plant in it is not growing well. Examine the roots
and you will be pretty sure to find that many of the
young and delicate ones are decaying. When this
takes place, disease is pretty sure to follow rapidly.
More plants are lost from neglect in preparing a light
and porous soil than from any one other cause, I

SOIL FOR PLANTS IN POTS 5

think. I would omit the manure from the compost
rather than the sand, if I could have but one.

If you do not require your compost for immediate
use, it is a good plan to pile it up in some corner of
the garden and allow the vegetable matter in it to
decay thoroughly. Stir it well from time to time. Let
the air get to all parts of it. When you have soap
suds pour them over it. Add to it whatever you think
will increase its nutritive qualities. In a short time
you will have a supply of soil in which the most
aristocratic plant ought to grow well. It is well to
keep a supply on hand. You will need it all through
the year if you have many plants. Often a plant
requires repotting in winter, but because there is no
soil at hand it is allowed to remain in its old pot and
by the time the soil required can be obtained, the
plant is injured permanently. Therefore put a box
of good soil in the cellar in the fall, to use as occasion
requires during the winter. Always aim to be pre-
pared to give your plants such attention as they may
need, when it is needed. In order to do this you must
look ahead a little, and understand what attention they
are likely to require.

In potting plants, where a compost prepared as
advised above is used, it may easily be varied to suit
the different plants you propose to grow in it. That
is, if the roots of a plant indicate a liking for a some-
what heavy soil, add some loam containing clay to it.
If they seem to require a very light, porous soil, add
more turfy matter, leaf mold, or sand. From this, the
reader will understand that the soil prepared as
advised forms a basis for soils of varying degrees of
heaviness or lightness, and that these qualities are
readily obtainable by the use of proper material.

It is often difficult, and sometimes impossible, to
procure such a soil as that recommended above. But

6 HOME FLORICULTURE

on this account do not forego the pleasure of growing
flowers. Get the best soil you can, and give the plants
the best possible care, and you will often be surprised
at the result. The love of flowers seems to have a
good deal to do with success. Where this exists, there
will be nothing left undone to make conditions as
favorable as possible for them. The plants seem to
understand what is being done for them, and respond
by doing their best to reward their owner for the
care and attention given. To grow flowers well, you
must love them. If you have not this feeling for them,
do not attempt their cultivation, for your attempts will
surely end in failure.

CHAPTER II

POTTING

When you get ready to pot plants, the first thing
to do, if your pots are new ones, is to put them to
soak in a tub of water. Unless this is done, and the
pores of the clay are full of water when the soil is
put into them, the moisture will be quickly drawn
from it, and the plant will suffer from lack of water
before you are aware that there is not enough to
supply its needs.

Provide a quantity of broken crockery, old brick,
anything which can be put into the bottom of each
pot to the depth of an inch or two and keep the soil
above it from running down and filling up the hole
in the bottom of the pot, where surplus water is
supposed to escape. Do not make this material for
drainage too fine. Let the pieces be about an inch
square, or like nut coal.

Some persons seem to think that it is unnecessary
to provide drainage. I have often heard it said that
it “was all a whim.” Not so. The practice is
founded on good, sound, philosophic principles. Give
the water a chance to drain away from the soil and
it follows that only as much will be retained as the
plant growing in it requires. If good drainage is
provided the water will not remain and sour the soil,
as it pretty surely would if no escape was furnished
for the water that the soil would not naturally take
up. Only a certain quantity can be retained in soils
which have natural drainage, and we always aim,
in plant culture, to come as near to the natural way
of things as possible.

& HOME FLORICULTURE

Another reason for providing drainage is this:
Many persons are very careless about watering their
plants. Often they apply so much that the soil is
saturated all through, and they do not wait for this to
evaporate or be got rid of in some other way, but
perhaps the next day they repeat the operation. If
there is no drainage, such a course of treatment will
soon result in disease among your plants, but with
good drainage, the danger of overwatering is avoided
in a great degree. Therefore, be sure to see that all
pots over four inches across are drained well. Smaller
pots do not require it, because there is but little soil
in them, and evaporation is much more rapid than
from a larger pot.

When you get ready to pot a plant, fill the pot
to within an inch or two of the top with the loose
soil, and give it a jar to settle it somewhat. Then
remove some from the center, and in this hollow set
the roots of the plant, taking care to have them
spread out naturally. Sift the loose soil down among
them, jarring the pot from time to time to firm the
soil well. When nearly full, press down with the hand,
and then water thoroughly to settle the scil. It is
not a good plan to have the pot full to the rim of
soil, because the water which is applied will run off
before enough is taken up by the soil to penetrate to
all portions of it. Have the earth about an inch
below the rim when well settled.

In repotting old plants, remove as much as
possible of the old soil without disturbing the roots
too much. Some shake all the old soil off the roots,
but I find that a plant starts much sooner and does a
great deal better if the roots in the center of the ball
of earth in which they have been growing are not
interfered with. Roots must take hold of the fresh
soil before the plant can become thoroughly estab-

POTTING 19]

lished in its new quarters. If all are disturbed, the
plant receives too severe a check, because it will be
some time before they are in a condition to take up
nutriment; but if a part of them are left undisturbed,
these can feed the plant while the others are taking
hold of the fresh soil.

In shifting plants, it is not advisable to change
from a small pot to one more than one or two sizes
larger. It is better to make frequent shifts. Do not
repot till the roots have filled the ball of earth and
formed a network of white fibers all around the outside
of it. You can readily ascertain when this has been
done by turning the plant out of the pot. Invert the
pot over the left hand, with the stalk of the plant be-
tween your fingers. Then give the pot a sharp rap
against something to loosen it from the soil. The plant
can then be slipped out readily without disturbing the
roots in the least. Do not think that this injures the
plant, for it does not.

A great mistake is made by many amateurs in
giving too large pots. They think a small pot means
starvation to the plant because it will not contain a
sufficient amount of earth to feed a plant well. This
is not true of small plants. They have few roots, and
a small amount of soil will meet all their require-
ments until these roots have enlarged and fill the pot.
Then repot. If you put a small plant in a large pot
it cannot make use of all the nutriment in the soil, and
as there is nothing else to share it, the poor little
plant is overfed—fed to death, often. A young plant
from a cutting should not have a pot larger than
three inches across the top. Plants bought from
florists in spring are generally from pots of that size,
and they are almost always in strong, healthy condition,
after having been grown in these small pots the greater
share of the winter. This proves that a young plant
does not require a large pot.

10 HOME FLORICULTURE

A pot six or seven inches across the top is quite
large enough for ordinary window plants. A Geranium
will bloom better in a pot of this size, when a year
old, than it would in a larger one. One containing
more soil would be likely to produce a more luxuriant
growth of leaf and branch, but would give fewer
blossoms. It is a fact that a plant blooms better, as
a general thing, when somewhat cramped for root
room. But all plants grown for their foliage require
a liberal amount of soil, because with them flowers are
not what is aimed at, but a vigorous development of
branches to furnish leaves. Bearing this in mind, you
would give your flowering Geraniums rather small
pots, while you would give a Rose Geranium a pot
several sizes larger, one being grown solely for its
flowers, while the other is only satisfactory when
it has a large amount of fine foliage. From this I
think you get the idea governing the use of large and
small pots.

After potting a plant give it a thorough water-
ing, as has been said, to settle the soil, but do not
give more until it shows signs of starting into
growth, unless the weather is very warm and evap-
oration takes place rapidly. It is always well to set
newly potted plants in a shaded place until they
become well established in their new pots. It may
take two weeks for them to do this. Shower them
daily. Moisture on the foliage often seems to do as
much good as water at the roots, and it is especially
beneficial to a plant when it is suffering the shock
which the most careful potting is likely to give to
some varieties which do not take kindly to a change
of this sort.

If you have good soil for your plants, I would not
advise a complete repotting oftener than once a year.
Give this just before they make the strong growth

POTTING Il

of the season. Some months later, remove a portion
of the soil from the pot and give fresh earth in its
place. This will keep the plant in good growing
condition. If it seems suffering from lack of nutri-
ment, give some of the fertilizers treated of in a later
chapter. We are beginning to understand that by the
use of these, in an intelligent way, much of the need of
frequent repotting can be done away with. This
subject will be considered farther on.

CHAPTER III

WATERING PLANTS

Some persons water their plants every day, with-
out regard to the season, and give just about the same
quantity one day that they do another. The natural
result is that in winter their plants are weak and
spindling, with yellow leaves, and few if any flowers.
The owner will tell you that she “don’t see what ails
her plants. She is sure she gives them all the water
they need, and she never forgets to do this.” If she
were to forget to do this occasionally it would be a
great deal better for the plants. In summer the
evaporation of moisture from the soil is rapid, because
of warmth and wind, but in winter this goes on slowly,
and the amount of water given should be regulated by
the ability of the soil to dispose of it. Where too
much is given, as has been said in the chapter on
potting, the soil is reduced to a condition of muddiness,
unless good drainage has been provided, and those
who give too much water generally neglect this item.

Another woman will give water in little driblets,
“whenever she happens to think of it.” The result is
that her plants are chronic sufferers from lack of
moisture at the roots. The wonder is that they contrive
to exist. Turn them out of their pots and you will
generally find that the upper portion of the soil is
moist, and in this what few roots there are have
spread themselves, while below it the soil is almost
as dry as dust, and no root could live there. Plants
erown under these conditions are almost always dwarf
and sickly specimens, with but few leaves, and most
of these yellow ones. You will find that plants grown

WATERING PLANTS 13

under either condition are much more subject to attacks
of insects than healthy plants are.

There is only one rule to be governed by in
watering plants, that I have any knowledge of, and
that is this: Never apply water to any plant until
the surface of the soil looks dry. When you do give
water, give enough of it to thoroughly saturate the soil.
If some runs through at the bottom of the pot, you can
be sure that the whole ball of earth is moist.

I follow this rule with good results. Of course,
like all other rules, it has exceptions. For instance,
a Calla, being a sort of aquatic plant, requires very
much more water than a Geranium. A Cactus, being
a native of hot, dry climates, requires but very little.
The florist who is interested in his plants will study
their habits, in order to understand the requirements
of each, and will soon be able to treat them intelli-
gently. He will soon be able to tell at a glance when
a plant requires more water. He will know what
kinds to give a good deal to, and what kinds to water
sparingly. Until he has acquired this ability it is
well for him to adhere to the rule given above, for
if he follows it he cannot go very far wrong in either
direction. Let the water used be of about the same
temperature as that of the room in which the plants
are. I am often asked which is best, hard or soft
water. I have tried both, and see little difference.

Many persons fail to attain success with plants
in baskets and window boxes. Ninety-nine times out
of a hundred, the failure is due to lack of water. A
basket is exposed to dry air on all sides, and is
suspended near the ceiling, as a general thing, where
the air is much warmer than below, consequently
evaporation takes place more rapidly than from the
pot on the window sill. Because it is somewhat
difficult to get at, water is not given as often as

14 HOME FLORICULTURE

required, and then generally in smaller quantities than
is needed. The first thing you know, your plants are
turning yellow, and dropping their leaves, and soon
they are in such a condition that you throw them away
in disgust, and conclude that you haven't “the knack”
of growing good basket plants. All the trouble comes
from an insufficient water supply.

There are two methods by which you may make
it easier to attend to the needs of these plants. One
is, to have the baskets suspended by long cords run-
ning over pulleys, by which you can lower them into
a tub of water, where they can be left until they
are thoroughly soaked through. The other is this:
Take a tin can and punch a hole through the bottom
of it. Let this hole be large enough to allow water
to escape, drop by drop. Set this on top of your
basket and arrange the foliage to cover it.

If the hole is not as large as it ought to be, the
soil will not be kept moist all through. In this case,
make it larger. A little observation will enable you
to regulate matters in such a manner as to secure just
the flow of water needed. By the “tin-can method” of
watering basket plants, the trouble of watering in the
ordinary way will be done away with, and the results
will be extremely satisfactory.

Plants can be grown nearly as well in the window
box as in the open ground if enough water is given
to keep the soil moist, all through, at all times. The
“little-and-often” plan, spoken of in this chapter, will
lead to dismal failure in the care of window boxes.
Apply at least a pailful of water every day, in warm
weather. If this is done there need be no failure. If
those who have failed, heretofore, will bear this in
mind, and follow the advice given, they may have
window boxes that will make their windows beautiful
during the entire summer, with very little trouble.

CHAPTER IV

CARE OF PLANTS IN THE WINDOW

In order to grow plants well, in the house, they
must have plenty of light. Unless this can be given,
they will be spindling and weak, and there will be few,
if any, flowers, and these will be inferior.

The best exposure is a southern one; the next best
an eastern one. A south window is the one in which
to grow Geraniums, Lantanas, Heliotropes, and all
plants fond of much sunshine, while the eastern one
is better for Begonias, Fuchsias, and such plants as
care more for the sun in the early part of the day
than they do for it after its rays become more intense.
A west window gives too much heat unless shaded
considerably, but it is better than no window at all,
and if you have no other to give your plants, don’t go
without them. A curtain of thin muslin will temper
the heat greatly, and vines can be trained over the
glass in such a way as to break the fierceness of the
sun’s rays. A north window is not suited to the
needs of flowering plants, but some which are grown
solely for foliage can be kept there. Ferns, Palms,
Aspidistra, Ficus and Lycopodiums will do quite as
well there as in a window exposed to the sun. English
Ivy can be trained about it. Tradescantia in baskets
can be hung up in it, and thus it can be made beautiful
without flowers if you have a love for “green things
growing.”

One often sees weak, scraggly plants in the sit-
ting room windows. They seem to have grown too
rapidly to be healthy. Two things combine to bring
this about: Lack of fresh air and too much: heat.

16 HOME FLORICULTURE

If you want fine plants—and if you really love
flowers you want nothing else—you must give them
plenty of air. They breathe, as you do, and without
fresh air they pine and become diseased, the same as
you would under similar conditions. You occupy the
same room, it is true, without suffering as much as
your plants appear to, but you are not confined to it
all the time, as they are. You get air when you go
out of it. They are obliged to stay in it. Always
have your window arranged in such a manner that it
can be lowered at the top, thus letting a stream of
pure air blow in over the plants. If storm sash is
used, have a hole in the bottom of the outside sash,
and another in the top of the window sash. When
these holes are open, a stream of fresh air will rush
in below, flow up between the two sashes and enter
the room through the hole in the top of the window
sash. These holes can be left open the greater
part of the day, but should be closed at night. Opening
doors from the hall, or some adjoining room into which
air can be admitted from without, will let in a supply
which your plants will appreciate fully. Never let a
stream of cold air blow directly on them, however.
Aim to have the cold air mix with the warm air of the
room before it reaches them.

The air of the living room is generally kept too
warm and dry for plants, as well as the human occu-
pants of the room. About seventy degrees during the
day time and fifteen degrees less at night would suit
such plants as one finds in ordinary collections.

Aim to keep the temperature as even as possible.
Too great heat forces a weak growth, and has a ten-
dency to blast any buds that may form.

In a room where the air is warm and dry, the
red spider will do deadly work. In order to keep
him at bay, the plants must be given as much moisture

CARE OF PLANTS IN THE WINDOW 17

as possible. Keep a vessel of water on the stove, to
evaporate. Shower the plants daily. If the pots are
used without saucers, the table on which they stand,
or the shelves, can be covered with an inch of sand
which can be kept in place by tacking cleats along
the edge of the stand. This sand will take up and
retain the water which runs through the pots, and thus
a steady moisture will be given off from it, for there
will be constant evaporation taking place. Keep the
air of the room in which plants are kept as moist as
possible, if you want to grow strong, healthy plants.
This is a very important item, and should not be
neglected.

Showering daily helps to keep the foliage clean ;
and unless the dust, which settles on the plants when
sweeping the room, is cleared away, the pores of the
leaves become clogged, and the plant finds it difficult to
breathe, for the pores of the leaves are really the lungs
of the plant.

In a moist atmosphere many plants can be grown
which would die in a dry air, and all plants do so
much better where there is plenty of moisture in sus-
pension that the amateur who wants his plants to do
their best will aim to supply it. It has often been
observed that fine plants are often found growing in
the kitchen, while those in the parlor are sickly. The
explanation of this is: The kitchen air is moist,
because of the cooking, washing, and other work of
that kind going on there, while the parlor air has all
the moisture extracted from it by intense stove and
furnace heat which there is no moisture to modify.

Stir the soil in the pots at least once a week. An
old fork is a good tool to do this with. This allows the
air to penetrate to the roots, and keeps weeds from
getting a start. Keep all dead leaves picked off, and
remove fading flowers. .It is a good plan to cover

18 HOME FLORICULTURE

your plants with a thin sheet, or a newspaper, when
sweeping. It is another good plan to remove them
to the kitchen at least once in two weeks, and give
them a thorough washing. This helps to keep down
insects, and prevents them from becoming incrusted
with dust.

By all means provide yourself with one of the
brass syringes (Fig 2) or elastic plant sprinklers

FIG 2—PARLOR SYRINGE

(Fig 3) for sale by dealers in florists’ goods. With
one of these you can throw a strong stream or a spray

FIG 3—ELASTIC PLANT SPRINKLER

of water over and among your plants, and apply it
effectively, which you cannot do if you depend on a

CARE OF PLANTS IN THE WINDOW 19

whisk broom for a sprinkler. A “sprinkler” is not
what you need, but something that has force enough

FIG 4—FOUNTAIN PUMP

to take the water in all directions, and in such quan-
tities, and with such volume, as the case may require.
For specially constructed plant rooms, or conserva-
tories, the fountain pump (Fig 4) is best suited.

Turn your plants at least twice a week so that they
will get the sun and light on all sides. This prevents
their becoming drawn to one side, as they will be sure
to do if not turned frequently. Don’t neglect to do
this if you want good-shaped specimens. And be sure
to give all the light possible; don’t shut it out from
the window where you have plants, by curtains or
lambrequins. Let your plants furnish the beauty for
the window. Some are afraid of letting in the sunshine
upon their plants because it will fade the carpet. If
you care more for your carpet than you do for your
flowers, give them to some one who is willing to do
the fair thing by them, and concentrate your energies
on the protection of the precious carpet, but don’t
attempt to compromise matters between the two, for
this will surely result in failure, so far as your plants
are concerned.

CHAPTER V

THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS

Most window plants are propagated from cuttings,
or “slips.” A cutting is a piece of branch. If the
lower end is inserted in soil, the branch, if in proper
condition, will form roots, and in this way you obtain a
new plant. By proper condition is meant the condition
of the wood at the time the cutting is taken. It should
not be of too recent a growth, neither should it be
of too old a growth. The cutting, if too “green,” is
likely to decay before roots can be formed; if too old,
roots often refuse to start. A “happy medium”
between the two stages of plant growth should be
sought for in selecting cuttings. Let the branch be
firm, but not tough. If, when you bend it between
your fingers, it seems inclined to break, and yet does
not, it is in about the fit condition to “strike.” This
is not laid down as a rule to go by, but it indicates as
accurately as any test that can be given the amateur,
the proper condition of the wood of most plants from
which it is desired to take cuttings. Study and obser-
vation of the characteristics of plants will enable a
person to tell at a glance which cutting to take and
which to reject, but it is a difficult, if not an impossible,
matter to make this clear in words.

I always start cuttings in clear sand. Take a
shallow dish—a soup plate is as good as anything—
and fill it with the cleanest sand you can find. Let it
be somewhat sharp and gritty, rather than fine, for if
too fine it will become like mud when wet. Insert your
cuttings in it, letting the ends of them reach down
through it and come in contact with the plate. Water,

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS 21

giving enough to make the sand thoroughly wet all
through, and aim to keep it in this condition. Set in
a warm place. A sunny window answers very well.
If you allow the sand to get dry the young roots will
be injured, if not killed, and the result is that you are
quite likely to lose your cutting by your neglect to

FIG 5—SAUCER PROPAGATION

give the proper care. Most cuttings will start roots
in a week, but they should not be taken from the sand
for at least two or three weeks. When young leaves
are put forth freely you may know that it is safe to
transfer the young plant to a pot. This method of
propagation is shown in Fig 5.

Such plants as the Bouvardia and Chrysanthe-
mum can be propagated easily by making division
of the roots, and this method is to be preferred to
taking cuttings of them. Geraniums will grow if the
end of the cutting comes in contact with any kind
of soil. Heliotropes start easily, as do Fuchsias,
Lantanas, Pelargoniums and Abutilons. The Carna-
tion is propagated most surely by layering. This
method consists in bending down a branch without
severing it from the parent plant, and inserting it, at
the bend, in soil. It is well to give the branch a
little twist, or to about half cut through it at the
place where the bend is. This cut, or -fracture,
interrupts the flow of sap in some degree, and leads

22 HOME FLORICULTURE

to the formation of roots with more certainty than
would be the case if it were not made. When roots
have been formed the young plant can be cut away
from the old one, and put in a pot by itself.

The Rex Begonia and Gloxinia can be propagated
by the leaves. Take a leaf of either plant, nake a

FIG 6—BEGONIA LEAF PRODUCING YOUNG PLANTS

few cuts across the thick ribs on the back of them,
and then lay them on damp sand. Soon roots will
form, and by and by you will have plants from them,
as seen in Fig 6.

Soemtimes, when Dracaenas and Ficuses become
too tall for the window, the owner would be glad to
shorten them, but hesitates about cutting off the top,

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS 23

fearing that branches will not form along that portion
of the stalk which is left. In such cases I would
advise this treatment: Cut into the stalk, on each
side, where you want roots to form, making the cut
upward, and about one-third across, one cut a little
below the other. Then crowd sphagnum moss into the
clefts made, and bind some of it about the plant, at
that point. Keep it wet. By and by roots will form.
After these have grown through the moss, the top
can be severed from the parent stalk, and potted in
soil. Success depends on the constant moisture of the
moss. Allow it to get entirely dry and in all proba-
bility your attempt will end in failure.

CHAPTER VI
TRAINING PLANTS

The Abutilon, Chrysanthemum, Fuchsia, and
many other shrubby plants suitable to culture in the
window garden, can be trained in various ways to suit
the taste of the owner. You can have them like
miniature trees, or as shrubs. If you prefer the tree
shape, let a straight stalk grow to the hight of two or
three feet. Allow no branches to start along this stalk.
When it has reached the hight where you want the head
to form, cut off the top. In a short time branches
will be likely to start along the stalk, but all of these
except a few at or near the top must be rubbed off.
Let these which you leave make a growth of four or
five inches, and then nip the ends of them off. This
will induce branches to start at nearly every leaf. In
this way, by keeping up the “nipping” or “pinching-
in” process, you can force as many branches to grow
as will be required to form a bushy, compact head.
The Abutilon and Chrysanthemum are especially
adapted to this manner of training. Some of the
stout-growing Fuchsias, like Rose of Castile, make
fine little trees, but most varieties are too slender in
habit to grow satisfactorily in this form.

If you prefer a shrubby plant, with branches
from the pot up, you must begin your pinching-in
while the plant is small. Nip off the top when five or
six inches of growth has been made. Four or five
branches will probably start below. If these are nipped
off when they have grown long enough to have half
a dozen leaves each, they will throw out branches,
and thus you secure a bushy plant, which, to my

eee

TRAINING PLANTS 25

mind, is more satisfactory than one trained in tree
form.

Geraniums, unless given a good deal of attention
in the first six months of their growth, will become
awkward looking plants, and it will be impossible to
bring them into good shape later. You must begin
with the young plant if you want to make it sym-
metrical. Symmetry is not the only result of proper
pinching-in. If you force it to branch freely, as you
can by persistent nipping off the ends of the branches
until you have a dozen or more starting near the base
of the plant, you will have much greater flowering
surface than a plant left to train itself will ever
develop. Sometimes plants obstinately refuse to
branch as you want them to, but don’t despair of
success, and don’t give up to them and let them have
their way. Convince them by persevering in your
treatment that you mean ta make them come to your
terms. They will be anxious to grow, and when they
find that they cannot make growth to suit themselves,
they will give in to you, and grow as you want them
to. You must have patience with them, and persevere
in your efforts, and be kind to them. Ultimately your
reward will come in the shape of a fine plant, regular
in outline, well branched, and with plenty of healthy
foliage and beautiful flowers.

Sometimes a branch will outgrow the other
branches on a plant. As soon as you notice an
inclination to do this, check it by nipping it back.
This will give the other branches a chance to catch
up with it before it gets a fresh start. It may be
necessary, at times, to cut off the branch. It is better
to sacrifice it wholly than to allow it to take to itself
the greater share of the vitality of the plant.

Fuchsias, being for the most part slender growers,
require a support of some kind. The most satisfac-

26 HOME FLORICULTURE

tory one I have ever used was made as follows: A
rod of about one-half-inch round iron had three prongs
like those of a fork welded to one end of it. These
prongs, after being welded to the rod, were bent out

Ne

fA sah ae

a) Gaia>

xa!

es

FIG 7—A TASTEFULLY ARRANGED PLANT WINDOW

at right angles from it, and then given a square
downward bend. When these were inserted in the soil
they held the rod rigidly in place, because of their
bracing against each other, and of the “grip” which
they got on the soil. The upper end was punched full
of small holes, and through these a small wire was run

TRAINING PLANTS 27

in an irregular fashion. The bends or curves in the
wire projected for a foot or more on all sides. Through
and over these wires the branches of the plant were
trained in such a manner that they received all the
support they required without being given any
appearance of stiffness or primness, which is almost
always the result of training this plant on the ordinary
trellis. The ends of the branches had a natural droop
to them, and the wire supports were unnoticed after
being painted green.

The Ivy can be trained about the window, as shown
in Fig 7, and along the ceiling, or made to cover
screens with a wealth of beautiful foliage, if care is
taken to interlace the branches smoothly as_ they
develop. This is a most tractable plant, and one of the
old favorites, which no collection is complete without.

CHAPTER VII

INSECTS AND HOW TO FIGHT THEM

Whoever has plants must expect to have them
attacked by insects. Good care and constant attention
will do much toward keeping these enemies away,
but at times they make desperate efforts to secure pos-
session of your pets, and often they succeed in doing
it before you are aware of their presence. As soon as
you discover them go to work to get rid of them, and
do not relax your efforts until you feel sure that the
last one is put to rout. After that be vigilant, and see
that they are kept at bay, on the principle that an
ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

The aphis, or plant louse, is the pest most familiar
to those who have but few plants. It breeds with
wonderful rapidity. You may see a few to-day. Next
week you will find many plants literally covered with
aphides. Therefore, when you discover one lose no
time in declaring war against this enemy. The lice
suck the juices from tender plants and soon perma-
nently injure them. If left to carry on their work they
will kill them.

Until within a few years past fumigation with
tobacco was considered the most effective means of
getting rid of this pest. But most women objected
to it because its fumes sickened them, and the odor
of the weed clung to everything in the house for days.
In greenhouses it is still used to some extent, but
even there it is being superseded by other, and less
troublesome methods. An extract of nicotine is on the
market which is of such strength that a spoonful or
two of it, added to a pailful of water, furnishes us

.

with a most effective weapon against the aphis. It
can be syringed over infested plants, or they can be
dipped in it. This is the best way in which to make
use of the tobacco principle in fighting insects, but it
is open to the objection of being unpleasantly odorifer-
ous, and many women tell me they cannot make
use of it.

I have come to depend entirely on a homemade
insecticide in fighting the aphis. I shave a quarter of
a pound of the ordinary Ivory soap in use in most
households, or readily obtainable anywhere, into thin
pieces. These I cover with water and set on the stove
to melt. When liquid, I add to a pailful of water. Into
this I dip my plants. If they are large ones, I prepare
a larger amount of soap and water, keeping to the
proportions named above, and use it in a tub sufficiently
large to accommodate my plants. I find this bath most
effective. Aphides are killed and no plant is ever
injured. It costs but little, is pleasant to prepare and
handle and is always at hand. A good many profes-
sional florists to whom I have recommended it tell me
that they have used it with unvarying success, and
prefer it to anything else they have tried in fighting the
aphis. This insecticide is also effective against the
thrip and the mealy bug.

One of the most destructive insects with which
the owners of plants have to measure weapons is the
red spider. He does his most effective work in rooms
where the air is hot and dry. He is a tiny creature,
and often his presence is unsuspected. The leaves of
the plants begin to turn yellow, and a sickly look per-
vades the collection. The real cause of the trouble is
not understood until you happen to see, on the under-
side of a leaf, a little web. Examine it closely and
you will see little atoms looking more like a grain of
cayenne pepper than anything else. Watch them

INSECTS AND HOW TO FIGHT THEM 29

30 HOME FLORICULTURE

closely and you will see them move. Then you will
know that it is the ravages of this little but powerful
insect which has given your plants such a woe-
begone look.

The only antidote for the red spider that I have
ever found effective is—water. ‘Only this, and noth-
ing more.” This insect will not stay where there is
much moisture. If you apply water to your plants
daily, putting it on with a syringe, and throwing it
well up among the foliage, so that it reaches the under-
side of the leaves where the spider lurks because the
leaf over him acts as a sort of umbrella which protects
him from falling water, you can soon rout him. But
this treatment must be thorough, and it must be kept
up, for if you abate your efforts he will soon return.
Use every means in your power to keep the air moist
at all times. But rely on showering to drive him away
when once established. Be sure to remember what
has been said about getting the water to the underside
of the leaf. In’ greenhouses, where the plants are
syringed often, the spider is seldom found because
the air is charged with so much moisture at all times
that it is not pleasant for him. This condition cannot’
be secured in the living room, but much can be done to
do away with the dryness usually found there. Some-
times I think the spider a blessing in disguise, for
the water which you apply to your plants in fighting
him is an important item of success in the culture of
them, and were it not for the fight you wage they
might not get it.

The other two principal enemies of house plants
are mealy bug and scale. The mealy bug looks like a
tiny bit of cotton. The scale is a smooth, flat creature,
adhering closely to the surface of such smooth leaved
plants as the Ivy, Lemon and Oleander. Both are
destructive. Lemon or fir-tree oil will rout them more

INSECTS AND HOW TO FIGHT THEM 31

effectively than anything else I have ever tried, though
the soap insecticide advised for the extermination of
the aphis will do good work against the mealy bug
if you are sure to get it where he lurks. Scale,
however, does not succumb to it so readily, and it
becomes necessary to use something stronger to rout
this formidable enemy of Palms and other smooth
leaved plants, and of many kinds of Fern, especially
the Sword varieties, which are now so extensively
grown. Let me say, in this connection, that the scale
on Ferns is generally somewhat different in shape from
that on such plants as the Palm—so much so that
some persons hardly think it possible for them to
be of the same family. Palm scale is generally small,
and quite flat, sometimes white, sometimes brown.
Fern scale is generally plump and well rounded on its
upper part, and is almost always brown, or greenish-
brown, in color and considerably larger than the sort
found on harder foliaged plants. The use of either of
the oils named will rout this enemy. Directions for
the preparation of the wash accompany them. Apply
with a soft rag, or a brush stiff enough to remove the
insect after the application has done its work. Use this
bath frequently, after you have rid your plants of the
pest, to prevent its return.

CHAPTER VIII

CARE OF HOUSE PLANTS DURING SUMMER AND
FALL

House plants should not be put out of doors at
the North before the first of June. Cool nights and
late frosts are of frequent occurrence through the
month of May north of New York City, and whoever
puts plants out very early, as many do, may wake up
some morning and find them nipped.

The question is often asked: What is it best to
do with our plants during summer? Whether to keep
them on the veranda, to sink the pots containing them
in the ground, or turn them out of their pots. I have
tried all three ways, and from my experience I would
advise the amateur to keep the plants in pots, in some
sheltered place, through the summer months. It is
true that plants in pots will require more attention
than they would if planted out. But the advantages
are, that you have them where they will require more
or less care, and, knowing this, you will not be likely
to neglect them. And when fall comes, your plants are
in the pots, and there is no lifting and potting to be
done, a process which always results in a severe check
to a plant at the very time when it ought to be steadily
going ahead. I spoke of neglect. Right here let me
say that it never pays to neglect a plant. You may
save a little in labor by doing so, but you lose in the
development of the plant, and I never advise any
method of caring for plants which would encourage
neglect.

Most persons seem to think that it doesn’t much
matter how plants are carried over the summer. They

7q

CARE OF HOUSE PLANTS 33

have an idea that about all that is necessary is to keep
them alive till fall. Then they will take them in hand
and make satisfactory plants of them for winter use.
This is all wrong. The summer is the time in which
to make preparations for the winter campaign. If you
want fine plants in winter you must make them fine
plants before winter comes. If you neglect them in
summer you will find that it is too late to get them
in condition for winter work in fall. It will take nearly
all winter to get a plant which has been neglected in
summer in good condition, and by the time you have
accomplished this, if you succeed in doing so, which
is doubtful, it will be about time to put it out of doors.
But if your plants begin the winter in strong, healthy
condition, you may reasonably expect a great deal from
them if you give them proper care.

Plants intended for winter use ought to be given
a good deal of care during the summer. They must be
encouraged to make satisfactory growth. They must
be pinched in to produce plenty of branches to give
flowering surface, and to make them compact and sym-
metrical. You are to remember that you are now laying
a foundation for what you hope to realize, later on.
Your aim should always be to have them in the best
possible condition at all times, and your summer’s work
must be done with reference to the future. Never
expect much from plants, in winter, which were “poor
specimens” in fall. If you do, quite likely you will be
disappointed.

If plants are “plunged,” which is the term
gardeners use when they mean that the pots containing
the plants are sunk in the earth up to their rims, they
are pretty sure to suffer. The soil about the roots,
inside the pot, will become much drier than that about
the pot, on the outside of it, for, though most pots
are porous, they do not admit moisture in sufficient

34 HOME FLORICULTURE

quantity to keep the earth in them moist enough to
meet the requirements of the young and delicate roots.
This difficulty can be overcome by daily applications
of water, but the fact is that plunged plants are pretty
sure to be neglected because the soil about them seems
moist, and the fact of lack of moisture imside the pot
is lost sight of, or not understood. They are also
likely to be injured by wind and sudden storms, and
if care is not taken to put a layer of wood or coal
ashes under the pots—and this will not be done once
in ten times, I presume—worms will effect an entrance
through the hole in the bottom. And in nine cases
out of ten, you will find when you come to take up
the plants in fall, that they have sent roots down
through this hole, and these roots, which are young
and strong ones, must be broken off to the injury
of the plant in a greater or less degree.

In turning plants out of their pots and planting
them in the open ground, the owner avoids the care
necessary to give them when kept in pots, and may
feel confident of the vigorous growth they will be
pretty sure to make. 3ut when cold weather
approaches, and the plants have to be taken up and
potted, a “change will come o’er the spirit of his
dream.”’ It will then be found that the roots have
spread far and wide about the plants. The little
plant from a four-inch pot will have made such a
surprising increase of roots that a peck measure would
not contain them all, and of course it is out of the
question to give them such large pots as really seem
necessary. In trying to reduce the earth about them
to fit the pots in which they are to be placed it will
be found that most of the large roots have to be cut
away, and all the others disturbed more or less. In
cutting away these strong, feeding roots, and expos-

CARE OF HOUSE PLANTS 35

ing the others, the plant receives a violent shock from
which it will take it months to recover.

Of course, after cutting off some of the roots, the
top must be cut back correspondingly, or the plant
would be likely to die, for there will not be sufficient
root action to support all the old branches. If cut
back at the roots, new roots will have to be formed
before growth can take place. The plant must first
become re-established. You will readily see, therefore,
that when this plan is pursued you have, in fall, at
the very time when the plant should be at its best—
strong, vigorous, and able to stand the change from
out to indoor conditions—a plant getting, or trying
to get, a fresh start; a plant that has received a
shock, whereby its vitality is greatly weakened. The
change from out to indoor life will be so abrupt and
so decided that it will be still further weakened by it.
Out of doors, in fresh air, and under natural condi-
tions, it might recover much sooner; but the close
living room, with its dry air, and great heat, will
hasten the down-hill tendency of the plant, and it is
not to be wondered at that so many die in fall when
brought into the house. Of course, if plants could be
taken up without disturbing the roots, this method of
summering them would be a good one, because they
grow so much better and are more robustly healthy
in the open ground than when kept in pots. But as
it is utterly impossible to take them up without dis-
turbing the roots, I would not advise planting them
out in summer.

I would advise keeping house plants during sum-
mer on a veranda with eastern or northern exposure.
If you have only a southern or western one, give a
screen of lattice or vines. The sun will burn many
| tender plants exposed to it from noon to three o’clock.
An eastern or northern exposure is preferable; because

36 HOME FLORICULTURE

no screen will be required, and therefore there will be
a freer circulation of air. The heat will also be much
less intense. Water daily, and give a liberal quantity
to all plants which you want to make a vigorous
growth. If some are needing rest—as will be the
case with most winter blooming kinds—give less—
just enough, in fact, to keep the earth from getting
so dry that the plant will wilt. Go over your plants
once a week, and when you see a branch getting
the start of the others, nip it off. If a plant persists
in growing tall and “leggy,” cut the top off, and keep
on doing this until branches start along the stalk.
Now is the time to make your plants assume the
bushy, compact shape you will want them to have
when removed to the house in winter. Stir the soil in
the pots once a week. If fresh soil was given in
spring, do not give any fertilizer. You do not want
to force the growth at all—simply to keep it growing
steadily and healthily.

When the time comes to take in your plants, do
not make the change from out to indoors an abrupt
one, as many do. They put them in the sitting room
window and seem to take it for granted that that
is all that is necessary. Not so. The plants have
had plenty of fresh, cool air out of doors, and if
denied this all at once, they pine and suffer. Give
them all the fresh air possible for days after putting
them in the house. Keep them as cool as possible.
It is better to put them in a room where there is no
fire, at first. Accustom them to the change between
out and indoor conditions as gradually as possible.
Don’t be abrupt about it if you want your plants to
do well. T often am told by amateurs that their plants
were budded when brought in, but the buds turned
yellow and fell off in a week or two, and they don't
understand the cause of it. It almost always happens

CARE OF HOUSE PLANTS 37

because the plants are kept too warm and get very
little fresh air, after being brought into the house—
in other words, there is too abrupt and violent a change
in conditions, and the shock is so severe that they are
unable to overcome it, and in consequence they drop
their buds.

CHAPTER IX

FERTILIZERS

Most plants need a fertilizer of some kind, at
certain periods. But care must be taken in the use
of them. They should never be given to a plant in
a dormant condition, or to a sickly one. The resting
plant will be excited by it, and efforts in the direction
of growth will be made prematurely. It will act on
the sickly plant very much as rich food acts on a
debilitated person, and aggravate diseased conditions,
instead of assisting in the restoration of health. A
plant should be growing, or beginning to grow, before
any fertilizer is applied to it.

Liquid manure is greatly advised. The formula
for preparing it is this: Take dry manure—from the
cow yard, preferably—and pour hot water over it.
This will soak into and soften the material, and by and
by, when more water is applied, some will run away
at the opening in the lower part of the barrel or
box used, and this is the liquid manure you are to
make use of. It should be diluted, if dark in color,
until it has the brown tint of rather weak table tea.
Never use it when almost black, because that indicates
greater strength than the ordinary plant can stand.
This can be applied to plants like the Chrysanthemum,
and others which are gross feeders, as often as once
a week if they are in soil of only ordinary richness.
For most plants, however, once in ten days or two
weeks will be often enough to use it. Rapid develop-
ment is not desirable. Rather a steady, but vigorous
and healthy growth,

FERTILIZERS 39

If cow manure or other fertilizer has been mixed
with the soil in which your plants are growing, no
other fertilizer will be needed until the plants have
nearly exhausted the nutritive elements in the soil.
When the leaves of a growing plant become smaller
and smaller, as they are produced, and it loses its
vigor in the development of stalk and branch, it is
safe to conclude that more food is needed. The use
of fertilizers makes it unnecessary to repot plants
oftener than once a year. Indeed, by using them
judiciously, plants can be kept in the same soil, for a
much longer period, in perfect health, as good fer-
tilizers furnish the elements of plant growth in a
condensed form and in such a manner as to be readily
assimilated by all plants. Plants about to come into
bloom will be greatly benefited by the application of
a reliable fertilizer. It will increase the size of the
flowers and intensify their richness of color.

Ammonia is frequently advised as a fertilizer.
Those who advise its use do not understand the
difference between a stimulant and an application
containing the elements of plant growth. These will
be found in all reliable fertilizers, but ammonia simply
stimulates a plant to greater activity, temporarily, with-
out furnishing any real food.

Bone meal is good, because it is rich in nutritive
qualities. It can be mixed with the soil about the
roots of plants. A teaspoonful once a month to a
seven or eight-inch pot will be sufficient. It can be
used on larger or smaller pots in a similar proportion.
If an immediate effect is desired, get very fine bone
meal, or bone dust, instead of the ordinary bone meal
sold at agricultural stores,

CHAPTER X

DISEASED PLANTS

When a plant that has been making satisfactory
growth suddenly drops its leaves, you may be quite
sure that its health has been injured in some way.
Possibly the cause may be the red spider, but if, after
examination, you find none of these insects at work,
you will be obliged to look in other directions to
ascertain the source of trouble. It may come from
overpotting, which means that you have given the
plant a pot containing more soil than it needs; or it
may come from too much water at the roots, or too
great heat; or gas in the room. Or it may be attribu-
table to too great stimulation or the use of a fertilizer
in too great quantities. Possibly worms in the soil
may be the cause.

Béfore beginning any kind of treatment, try to
find out what has caused the difficulty. When you
have ascertained that, you can go to work intelli-
gently. If the pot is too large, put the plant in a
smaller one. If too much water is retained in the soil,
see to the drainage. That must be defective. If too
strong a fertilizer has been given, repot the plant,
putting it into a soil of moderate richness. If the heat
of the room is too intense, temper it in some way, and
give plenty of fresh air.

In treating a sick plant let the soil get quite dry.
Then repot the plant. Give a small pot, and remove
all the diseased roots. If a new pot is used, soak it
well before potting the plant. If an old one is used,
clean it thoroughly. After putting your plant in it,
water moderately, and then wait till the plant shows

DISEASED PLANTS 41

signs of growing before giving more, unless the soil
is likely to get very dry.

Sometimes a plant becomes diseased because of
impurities in the soil. Such plants are often greatly
benefited, and frequently restored to health by the
application of hot water. Let it be at least one hundred
and twenty degrees Fahrenheit. Use enough to thor-
oughly saturate all the soil in the pot. A hot bath
of this kind dissolves, and counteracts and removes
existing impurities to a great extent, when nothing
else will.

Never give a fertilizer of any kind, or a stimulant,
to a sick plant. Wait till it has begun to grow and
takes on a healthy look. Then give it with great
caution. A healthy action must be restored before it
will be safe to give strong food. It will be injured
by fertilizers if they are given too soon, just the same
as a person recovering from a severe illness is injured
by overfeeding. His digestive organs are not in a
condition to make use of the food, consequently instead
of its strengthening him as it ought to, and as it would
if he were able to assimilate it, it increases the weak-
ness of the organs brought into operation. Give them
a chance to regain lost strength and tone before asking
much of them.

If the trouble comes from worms in the soil, take
a piece of fresh lime as large as a teacup, and dissolve
it in a ten-quart pailful of water. When dissolved,
pour off the clear water and apply to your plants,
giving enough to thoroughly saturate the soil. This
will almost always drive out or kill the worms, and
seldom injures the plants. If one application is not
sufficient, repeat it. Most plants are benefited by the
use of lime water occasionally, as there is an element
of plant growth in the lime. I depend on this in
fighting the worm, and it generally gives complete

42 HOME FLORICULTURE

satisfaction if used as directed. But the use of a few
spoonfuls will accomplish nothing. The soil must be
soaked all through with it. No one need fear to use
it, because water can hold only a certain amount of
the active qualities of lime in suspension, therefore,
if the clear water is used, no harm can be done by
it. As a general thing worms are introduced by the
use of cow manure. This is why I advise the use of
such fertilizers as will not breed worms. By applying
hot water to manure in the preparation of liquid
iertilizer, the larvae in the material can generally be
killed, but if this precaution is not taken worm-infested
soil is almost sure to result.

Of late complaints come from all over the country
of a disease which seems to affect nearly all plants.
The leaves of the plant attacked by it show light green
or yellow blotches, and these, after a time, become dry
and brown, as the tissue of the leaf is eaten away.
Sometimes the effect of the disease is most noticeable
on the edges of the leaves, which become brown and
dry, and crumble away. Generally the diseased leaves
turn yellow, or rusty looking, and fall off. The growth
of the plant is weak, and buds blast. If Ivy Leaf
Geraniums are attacked, their leaves, on the underside,
look as if they had been gnawed by some insect and
more or less scarred appearance characterizes the entire
foliage. A few plants are attacked at first—generally
those of low vitality—but the disease rapidly spreads
to others, until the entire collection looks as if it had
been scorched. The trouble is due to a disease of
bacterial or fungous nature. It spreads from spores
which settle upon healthy leaves and establish them-
selves there, and soon poison the blood of the plant,
which is helpless in its efforts to rid itself of them.

The only remedy seems to be found in the copper
carbonates. Bordeaux mixture, used by fruit growers

DISEASED PLANTS ras

in spraying their trees and bushes, will, if applied
promptly, counteract the disease, but the use of it on
house plants is objectionable, because it leaves a dis-
coloring sediment on the foliage. A preparation which
will not discolor the leaves is now on the market. It
depends for efficacy upon the same copper carbonate
that is the basis of Bordeaux mixture. This prepara-
tion, which can be bought at agricultural stores, and
of most florists, under the name of Copperdine, comes
in the form of a paste which can be readily thinned
by water and applied as a spray to all parts of the
diseased plants. Or they can be dipped in it. The
persistent use of this fungicide will soon overcome
disease conditions. After your plants become healthy
again, use it frequently to prevent a recurrence of the
disease.

CHAPTER XI

WINTER PRECAUTIONS

At the North we must take especial pains to guard
against the results of sudden “cold snaps’”’ and pene-
trating winds which blow the cold air into every
crevice. If we neglect to do this, we may wake up
some morning when the thermometer is away down
below zero and find our flowers frozen beyond the
hope of recovery. I would advise having an extra sash,
or “storm window,” placed at every window where
plants are kept. If this is done, and it is snugly
fitted on the casing, and the glass is well puttied in,
there will be no need of moving the plants at night,
and it will be needless to use curtains at any time as
a protection against the entrance of frost, as the two
thicknesses of glass with the air space between them
constitute a most effectual barrier against the cold.
Care must be taken to see that the outside sash fits
snugly against the frame of the window all around,
also that the sash in the window has no loose joints.
In order to make sure of a snug fit it is well to use
strips of thin corner molding which can be procured
at any carpenter’s, or the weather strips for sale in
most towns can be used. These, being edged with
rubber, can be made to fit every corner tightly, and
every crevice can be effectually closed against the
entrance of wind or frost. The outside sash can be
put on with screws. If the screws used are large
and long, they will draw it down against the wood
of the frame so firmly as to leave no crevice for
wind to get through unless the frame is warped and
uneven. If it is mot even and flat, it is well to

WINTER PRECAUTIONS 45

tack on several thicknesses of soft cloth where the
sash will come in contact with the frame. The screws
will hold the sash firmly against this ‘‘packing,” and
a tight fit will be the result.

Of course windows treated in this way may be
said to be air tight, comparatively, and those who have
read what I have said about giving plants all the fresh
air possible may think that here we have contradiction
of advice. But because I urge making the window
at which the plants are kept as nearly air tight as
possible, it does not follow that we are not to give
the plants in them fresh air and plenty of it. For
some years past I have used a little device which
works very well. A tin pipe about two inches across,
with two bends or “elbows,” admits as much air as the
plants in a large bay window require. This pipe runs
down between the window sash and the storm sash,
and the lower elbow projects through a hole in the
bottom bar of the storm sash, and is open to the
outside air. The upper elbow comes into the room
through a hole in the upper part of the window sash.
This is fitted with a cap, by which all air can be kept
out, if desired. When removed, there is a rush of cold
air into the pipe from outside. This stream of air
rises in the pipe and is discharged into the room near
the ceiling, therefore above the plants. The air in the
room is of course much warmer near the ceiling than
elsewhere, as heated air always rises, and the cold and
warm unite, and the chill is taken off the fresh air
before it reaches the plants below. In order to avoid
a draft from the room, it is necessary to have the open-
ing for the admission of cold air lower than the
opening for the discharge of it. If this is not provided
for a draft may be created which will take the warm
air out of your room instead of letting in fresh air.
In putting in such a pipe, be sure to see that the

46 HOME FLORICULTURE

holes through which it passes, in the sashes, are made
tight with putty.

Often there will be cracks and crevices along
the baseboards of the room. Be sure to have these
closed. Paste strips of cloth over all cracks in the
plaster, and cover with paper like that on the walls,
and the patching will not be noticed. If there should
happen to be an opening between the baseboards and
the floor, have a strip of the corner molding spoken
of tacked firmly into the angle of the corner. It is the
drafts near the floor which have to be most closely
guarded against. Quite often tender plants occupy-
ing a low position on a stand are chilled, while others
equally tender on a higher level are untouched. It
is these drafts near the floor which persons should
guard against, also, and in looking out for the welfare
of your plants you are doing something which is
conducive to your own health and a double benefit is
secured.

Doors opening into the room in which flowers
are kept, especially those which open directly outside,
should have weather strips or strips of listing tacked
about them in such a manner as to close all cracks
through which the cold can enter. A strong wind will
blow more cold air into a room in moderate weather
than would be likely to penetrate into it still nights
when the thermometer is below zero. Therefore be
sure to fortify against the admission of air through
these inlets. It is a good plan to take a day for doing
this work, and begin at one corner of the room and
go over it thoroughly, finishing up as you go along.
By systematizing the work in this way you are sure to
have it all done and well done, but if you stop a
crack here and there, and now and then, you will be
quite sure to have a poor job of it, taken as a whole.

If your plants should freeze, as soon as you

WINTER PRECAUTIONS 47

discover what has been done, put them in a dark
room, or the cellar, where the temperature is but
little above freezing, and sprinkle, or rather shower
them, with cold water. Never use warm if you want
to save your plants. In most cases, such plants as
Geraniums, Abutilons and others of similar character
can, if taken in time, before they have been allowed
to thaw, be saved, and I have had quite tender plants
come through the ordeal with comparatively little
injury. The frost must be extracted from the plant
cells gradually, and with the application of as little
heat as possible. Keep them away from the light
and warmth for two or three days. If the tops wilt
after the frost has been extracted you may feel sure
that the wilted portion cannot be saved and the sooner
it is cut off the better. Cut below where it seems
to be affected by frost. If some of the frosted part
is left on, decay often sets in, which soon extends
to other portions, and the plant is pretty sure to
die. If the whole top seems killed, it does not follow
that there may not be vitality enough left in the root
to throw up new shoots, so do not throw them away
till you have given them a chance to make a fresh start.
Do not get the idea from what I have said above,
that at the North, in winter, plants can be kept in one
house out of fifty without keeping fire over night,
after following the advice given to the minutest par-
ticular. It will be necessary to see that fire does not
go out, but a much smaller fire will be required in
a room so prepared for winter than in a room which
has received no attention. Do not neglect making
these preparations till winter comes, and with such
severity as to make it impossible to do the work outside
well. Do it while it can be done carefully, and without
discomfort, and it will be done much more thoroughly
than it will when the fingers tingle with -cold and
erery breath is a puff of vapor on the frosty air.

CHAPTER XII

RESTING PLANTS

Many persons seem to think that a plant ought to
keep on growing all through the year. They give
water, stimulants, and everything calculated to
encourage or excite growth just the same at one
season of the year as at another. As a natural result
they have feeble plants, for no plant can keep up a
healthy growth all the year round. It must have its
period of rest. If a person goes without sleep he soon
becomes exhausted. <A plant requires something which
corresponds to sleep. In growing plants in the house
we must aim to imitate the processes of nature as
far as possible, and if you look about you, you find
that outdoor plants grow for a season and rest for a
season. Your house plants must be treated in this
way to secure best results. Don’t expect them to give
you flowers the year round. They will be so exhausted
by one season of flowering that they must be given
time to recuperate in. Without this resting spell they
will soon be robbed of vitality, and without vigor and
strength a plant is comparatively worthless.

When a plant ceases to bloom, and shows an
inclination to stop growing by ripening its leaves,
encourage it to rest by withholding water in a great
degree, and by giving it a less amount of light and
heat than it has been having, and be sure that it gets
nothing of a stimulating nature. Light, warmth and
water are all excitants of plant growth, and by with-
holding them we make it easy for the plant to stand
still. If you have a cellar that is quite dark, and the
temperature in it is not very much above freezing in

RESTING PLANTS 49

the coldest weather, it is just the place in which to put
such plants as show a desire to rest.

The absence of light, heat and moisture at the
roots enables the plant to become dormant and remain
so till it is brought up after its resting spell. It is
doing what the plants outside are doing, taking its
annual sleep. Assist it to make this rest as complete
as possible. Give only enough water to plants in the
cellar to prevent the soil from becoming dry. The cool
temperature, absence of light, and dormant condition
of the plant makes but little water necessary, and it
will not be advisable to give any in many instances,
after putting the plants in the cellar, though most will
require it in small quantities. This must be decided
by examination. If hard wooded, shrubby plants drop
their leaves while taking their rest, it is nothing that
need give you alarm. The shrubs in your garden drop
theirs also, but when they begin to grow next season
they soon make up for what they have lost. Your
house plants will make up for lost foliage when you
bring them up in spring and give them a chance to
grow. If you have no cellar in which to put your
plants, you cannot give them that complete rest which
they require, but by withholding water and stimulants,
you can bring them to a standstill as far as growth
is concerned, which will be a partial rest, and which
will be much better than none at all.

CHAPTER XIII

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS

Do not attempt to keep plants which do not bloom
in winter in the sitting room windows. Put them
away in the cellar to rest, and give the room they would
take up in the window to something from which you
can expect flowers. Such plants as Hydrangea, Ole-
ander, summer-flowering Fuchsias, and others of sim-
ilar character, are better off in the cellar than in
rooms, exposed to heat and light. There they can be
kept in a dormant condition, which is the natural one
for them, in winter. Give them no water, while stored
there, unless the soil is nearly dry. Then give just
enough to make it slightly moist. Put them there in
November, and leave them there until March or April.
Keep them as cool as possible without subjecting them
to frost, and do not be alarmed if they drop their
foliage.

I am often asked about the relative merits of
porous and glazed pots. In the greenhouse I would
use nothing but porous pots. In a very warm sitting
room, where the air is dry, glazed pots are often
better than porous ones, because evaporation takes
place more slowly, as the air does not have a chance
to get at the soil through the sides of the pot, as it
does when unglazed pots are used. Tin cans are often
used. I have seen good plants growing in them
when holes were punched through their bottoms, to
allow surplus water to run off, but unless this is done
it is almost impossible to keep plants healthy in them,
because the water is confined in the soil until it sours,
and diseased roots result,

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS 5t

Other frequent questions are about using tea and
coffee dregs on the soil about pot plants. Never do
it. The only benefit to be derived is that which comes
from it as a mulch, and if you keep your plants properly
watered no mulching will be required. As the dregs
decay, worms will breed in them, and in this way the
health of your plants is endangered. If you want a
fertilizer, use one of the several kinds recommended
in a former chapter.

Never throw away cuttings. If you don’t have
any use for them, some neighbor will be glad to
get them. Stick them down in the pot beside the old
plant, and most of them will root, and by and by you
can get rid of them.

If you want a bed of Geraniums on the lawn or
in the front yard next season, start all the cuttings you
can during winter. You can easily secure enough
from half a dozen plants to fill a bed six feet square,
and you can do this without spoiling your plants, too.
In removing new branches from plants which have
already developed as many as are required to make
them symmetrical and compact, you are benefiting them
instead of injuring them.

When you see that a plant requires attention
of any kind, don’t neglect it, but give the required
attention promptly. By attending to the wants of your
plants in season you can keep them in good condition,
but neglected plants always suffer and are seldom or
never satisfactory in appearance. It pays to take
proper care of them. Indeed, if you are not able or
willing to give plants the care they need, don’t
have any.

If possible, have a bay window so arranged that
it can be shut off from the room with which it is
connected by glazed doors. (Fig 8.) If this is done,
you can shower your plants and close the dgors, and

52 HOME FLORICULTURE

keep the air about them moist all day. The doors
can be shut when sweeping is going on, thus keeping
all dust from them. The expense will be slight, and
the benefit to the plants will be great.

eh

iq in at
al om
ire
\|

FIG 8—BAY WINDOW WITH GLAZED DOORS

If you want to economize space about a window,
and grow as many plants as possible there, get some
of the swinging iron brackets (Fig 9) for sale by
most dealers in seeds. These can be fastened to the
window frame with screws. You can get them with
from one to five places for pots. By using two of
these on each side of a window, plants can be arranged

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS 53

in such a manner as to frame it in with foliage and
flowers. Upright growers can be used near the wall,
and drooping ones in front. It is an easy matter to
group plants on these brackets more effectively than
on any other support. On cold nights it will not be
necessary to move the pots from the brackets, as the

FIG Q—SWINGING IRON BRACKETS AND WINDOW SHELF

arms which support the pots are made to turn in
the socket attached to the window frame, thus enabling
you to swing the plants close to the glass or away
from it, at your pleasure.

Never throw away a broken pot. Pick up the
pieces and put them where you can set them.readily

54 HOME FLORICULTURE

when you want some material for drainage. Many
persons neglect to provide drainage simply because
they have nothing at hand just when it is wanted. Be
prepared for such emergencies.

Keep all plants requiring support tied up neatly
and firmly. If you neglect this, quite likely you will
regret it, for sometime when you are at work among
them the unsupported plant will get a twist or turn by
which it will be seriously injured. Then you will wish
you had attended to the poor plant at the time you
discovered its need of attention.

If your window is crowded with plants thin them
out. Keep only as many as you can accommodate
without crowding. If you have too many all individ-
uality is destroyed; you can never expect satisfactory
development where there is lack of room. Where
plants have to elbow each other in their efforts to
get to the light some of the less aggressive ones
must remain in the background, and suffer in conse-
quence. If you are not willing to dispense with any,
change them about every week, so that all may have
a chance at the light. Place the taller ones at the
sides of the window, and farthest away from the
glass, as they can get light over the heads of the
lower growers.

Never arrange the plants in your window in such
a manner as to make an effective display from the
outside only. You do not grow plants, I hope, to
please the passer-by, but yourself and the members
of your family. Arrange them in such a way as to
make the window a beautiful sight when looked at
from the room. Act on the principle of making home
beautiful to those who are in it first of all. If some
of its beauty overflows and gladdens the eyes of those
who are not members of the household, well and
good, But let it be “home first, the world afterward,”

CHAPTER XIV

PLANTS ADAPTED TO WINDOW CULTURE

The list of plants adapted to cultivation in the
window of the living room is not as large as one
would suppose, after going through a greenhouse and
seeing the variety usually grown there. Many plants
flourish there which would refuse to grow in the con-
ditions which ordinarily prevail in our living rooms,
where they have dust, dry air and irregular tempera-
ture to contend with.

Below I give a list of such flowering plants as
can be grown in most dwellings, with fair chances of
success, if proper care is given them. By the term
“proper care,” is meant the application of the advice
contained in the preceding pages of this book concern-
ing the treatment which pot plants should receive at
the hands of their owners.

Agapanthus. Carnation.
Ageratum. Calla.
Amaryllis. Chinese Primrose.
Azalea. Cactus.
Achania. Cyclamen.
Abutilon. Daphne.
Begonia. Eupatorium.
Baby Primrose. Fuchsia.
Bulbs, for winter flowering. Genista.
Bouvardia. Geranium.
Browallia. Gloxinia.
Chrysanthemum. Hydrangea.
Calceolaria. Hibiscus.

Cineraria, Heliotrope.

56 HOME FLORICULTURE

Impatiens Sultani. (Zanzibar Balsam.)

Lantana.

Linum trigynum.
Mahernia.

Olea.

Oleander.
Pelargonium.
Plumbago.
Petunia.

Pyrethrum.
Primula obconica.
Rhynchospermum.
Rose.

Stevia.

Salvia.

Valotta

The following list includes the best basket plants

for general use:

Othonna.
Oxalis.
Saxifraga.
Tradescantia.
Moneywort.

Linaria.

Vinca.

Lobelia.

Trailing Lantana.

The following list includes the best vines for

window use:

English Ivy.

Senecio, or German Ivy.

Madeira Vine.
Passion Flower.

Hoya.

Jasmine.

Asparagus Sprengeri.
Thunbergia.

The following are among the best plants grown

for beauty of foliage:

Palm.
Fern.
Ficus.
Aralia.
Aspidistra.
Araucaria.
Begonia.

Dracena.

Farfugium.

Asparagus tenuissimus.
Asparagus plumosus.
Variegated Geraniums.
Pandanus.

Phormium tenax.

It is not to be understood by the reader that the
lists given above include all the plants that can be

PLANTS ADAPTED TO WINDOW CULTURE 57

grown in the living room. But they include all the
more desirable ones—those which the amateur will find
it safest to begin with—and are the standbys in this
class of plants. I would advise the amateur to confine
his experiments to them until he can grow them well.
Then he will have gained a knowledge of the general
principles of floriculture which will warrant him in
undertaking the culture of plants more difficult to
manage.

(GIEVVeMMDI OWE

THE PLUMBAGO, OLEANDER, AGAPANTHUS, AGERA-
TUM, STEVIA AND EUPATORIUM

The Plumbago

Plumbago Capensis is one of the best house plants
I have ever grown. It is a somewhat rampant grower,
but can be kept within bounds by judicious pruning.
It blooms ten months out of twelve, and very freely,
and on this account it is sure to become a favorite
wheresoever introduced. Its flowers are shaped like
those of Phlox Drummondi. They are borne in loose
clusters, and are of a delicate shade of lavender-blue—
a very rare color among flowers. Indeed, I know of
but one other flower of similar color—the Ageratum.
The flowers of the Plumbago are always produced
on new growth, therefore in order to keep it in
blooming condition it must be kept growing. Cut it
back every two or three months, and cut it back well,
and you will never lack for plenty of flowering surface
if you give manure water once a week to induce
development. On account of its peculiar color, it is
very useful for bouquet work. It combines well and
harmonizes with almost all other colors, and affords
a most delightful contrast with yellow flowers.

The Oleander

This old favorite holds its own against all new-
comers, and it is well that it does so, for it has many
merits that many of the new ones lack. As a large
plant for the center of a bay window, or for use on

PLUMBAGO, OLEANDER, AGAPANTHUS 59

the veranda or porch in summer, it is unexcelled. Its
great clusters of rosy-crimson flowers are quite equal
to bunches of Roses in effect, and a well-grown plant
will be literally covered with blossoms through half
the summer. Give it a rich soil made up of loam,
sand and old manure; repot each spring. Keep it
in good shape by cutting back any branches which
show a tendency to outgrow others. Watch the stalk
and foliage, and if you notice a scale on either take
an old tooth brush and apply water containing lemon
or fir-tree oil, as advised in the chapter on insecticides.
Mealy bug often attacks this plant, but it can be
routed by washes containing one or the other of the
above mentioned oils.

This plant can be made to assume a very sym-
metrical form by careful pruning. If you have an
old plant which has become too large for the window,
don’t throw it away, but put it in the cellar over
winter and plant it out on the lawn in summer, where
it will bloom beautifully. Indeed, no shrub can exceed
it in brilliant show. In fall the plant can be taken
up, its roots crowded into an old box or tub, and stored
away in the cellar for use another year. It is well
to winter your Oleanders in the cellar, because they
are not winter bloomers, strictly speaking, though they
often bloom at that time of the year, and they get
a chance to rest while in the dark. There are several
varieties, but the old rose-colored one is the best of all.

The Agapanthus

This is one of the best summer-blooming plants
we have. Its merits, however, seem to be but little
known, for we do not often see it in even quite large
collections. It is often called a tuberous plant, but
such is not the case. It has thick, fleshy roots with
a semi-tuberous look about them. It throws up a

60 HOME TFLORICULTURE

great profusion of green leaves, closely resembling
those of the Amaryllis. It is what is called an ever-
green, and it might well be called an ever-grower, for
it does not seem to care for or require rest. In June
or July it throws up a flower stalk to the hight of
three or four feet. Its flowers are small, but being
borne in a large cluster, they are very effective, as

FIG IO—CLUSTER OF AGAPANTHUS FLOWERS

seen in Fig 10. They are shaped like a Lily, and
each one is held out from the center of the cluster
by a slender stem. In color they are pale blue, striped
with white. This plant requires very little care. It
likes a soil rather heavy with loam, plenty of water,
and not a great deal of heat or sunshine. An old
plant will require a large tub or box to accommodate

AGAPANTHUS, AGERATUM 61

its thick and spreading roots, which will persist in
heaving themselves above the soil, giving one the
impression that a larger pot is needed when such is
not the case. Apply fertilizer liberally as the flower-
ing season approaches.

The Ageratum

This plant is an excellent one for house culture.
It is a free and constant bloomer, and gives a great
profusion of flowers in midwinter when so few other
flowers are seen. It is of very easy culture. It
likes a loam made light with sand, with a sprinkling
of old manure. If the soil in which it is grown is
too rich it will make a great growth of branch, with
but few flowers. In color it is a soft shade of lavender.
It resembles the old flower called Ladies’ Paint Brush
in shape, being made up of many fringe-like petals.
It produces its blossoms in clusters, and is very useful
for cutting for bouquets. For corsage work or button-
hole bouquets it is almost indispensable, because of
the rarity of flowers having its peculiar color. A spray
of it used with a Marechal Niel Rose makes a lovely
combination. It works in well with white. In fact,
it is one of those flowers which can be used harmo-
niously and effectively with almost any other flower.
It is subject to attacks of the red spider, but this
pest can be kept from getting established on it if care
is taken to dip the plants in water once a day. Do
not shake them dry after dipping, but allow them to
stand with the moisture remaining on the leaves.
Cutting from the plant increases its flowering propen-
sities, as it will put forth new branches, and each
branch will produce flowers.

62 MOME FLORICULTURE

The Stevia

The Stevia is not a new plant, by any means,
but it is one of those old plants which deserve
attention from all who love really beautiful flowers. It
is not a showy plant, because of its color, which is
white. It is a modest flower, and seldom strikes
attention when growing, but when used in bouquets it
is always greatly admired. Its individual blossoms
are small. They are borne in clusters, and have a
feathery appearance. It is most effective when used
among other plants by way of contrast. When seen
among pink Geraniums it presents a most charming
appearance. It is charming, also, when grown among
Fuchsias of the pink and white variety. It is a most
profuse bloomer, and gives its greatest crop along
through November and December, when we have but
few other flowers in bloom.

The Eupatoriwn

This flower is very much like the Stevia in form
and color, but it has a larger and more spreading
cluster, and a better habit. It has slender branches,
which are thrown out well on all sides. These droop,
when in bloom, and on this account the plant is well
adapted for use on brackets. It is valuable for bouquet
work. It is of the easiest culture, and every collection
ought to include at least one plant of it. E. riparium
is the best species.

CHAPTER XVI
PRIMULAS

Primula obconica

This is a flower that anybody can grow who will
give it a fine, spongy soil and a good deal of water.
It has hundreds of fine roots which take up moisture
rapidly, and a moderate supply of water will be found
quite insufficient to meet its requirements. It is a
most profuse and persistent bloomer. It blooms most,
however, in winter. Its flowers are lilac, shading into
white, or suffused with a pearly pink. They are about
the size of a Phlox Drummondi blossom, and similarly
shaped. They are produced in loose clusters, in a
sort of irregular spike, well above the foliage. They
have such a dainty, modest air about them—quite like
some of our dainty wild flowers of spring—that they
are prime favorites with all who love flowers for
individual beauty. They also have a delicate fragrance
which adds to their attractiveness. Plants for winter
flowering can be grown from seed sown in spring, or
by division of the roots of old plants. The only insect
I have ever found on this plant is the mealy bug. It
can be routed by the use of the soap insecticide recom-
mended in a former chapter.

The Chinese Primrose

This is one of the most popular of old winter
bleoming plants. For years it has been a “standby”
for the window garden. It is one of those plants
which can be depended on to give a steady. succession

64 HOME FLORICULTURE

of flowers all through the winter season, if properly
treated. It comes in various shades of red, mauve
and pure white. There are single and double varieties.
The doubles are finest, but the single sorts bloom
more freely. On account of their rather short stalks,
the flowers are not very useful for cutting, but they

FIG II—SINGLE CHINESE PRIMROSE

make a most delightful show in the window, and no
collection is what it ought to be unless it includes at
least one double white and one each of the white
and red single kinds. The flowers are about the size
of a quarter of a dollar. Some have a petal with a

PRIMULAS 65

smooth edge, while others are finely fringed. Most
varieties have a yellow or greenish-yellow eye. A
typical specimen of a single Chinese Primrose is seen
in Fig 11.

This plant is quite likely to rot just below the
crown if not potted in such a manner that the water
runs away from the center of the pot. Therefore see
that the soil slopes away from the plant to the edge
of the pot, if you would keep your plants healthy. If
decay sets in you might as well throw the plant away,
for it seems impossible to make it take on a healthy
tone again, though you repot it carefully, prune awav
all diseased portions, and give it the best possible care.
Keep your plants from getting diseased, if you can,
but don’t spend much time on trying to cure them after
disease sets in.

I would not advise trying to take a plant through
a second season. One season of flowering seems to
exhaust its vitality to such an extent that it is not able
to produce many flowers a second winter, and what
few it gives will be inferior. This plant likes a some-
what cool place, but must not be allowed to get chilled.
It does not care very much for direct sunshine, but
must have a good light, nevertheless. It is probably
best adapted to culture in a window with eastern
exposure.

Young plants can be bought each spring, and
grown on for winter flowering through the summer,
or they can be raised from seed sown in March. If
you buy plants—which is the best way—keep them in
a shady, sheltered place over summer, repotting as
needed, and being careful to remember what has been
said about potting in such a manner as to have the
water run away from the crown of the plant.

66 HOME FLORICULTURE

The Baby Primrose

This is a variety of Primula obconica, of compara~
tively recent introduction. Its flowers are very small,
individually—hence its name—but there are so many
of them, and they are produced so constantly, that we
have few more effective plants for winter use. They
range in color from nearly white to rosy lilac. They
require the same treatment as P. obconica, and should
be grown from seed, or by division of the old roots.
Plants intended for next winter’s use should be started
in spring.

CHAPTER XVil

THE MAHERNIA, BROWALLIA, PYRETHRUM, IMPA-
TIENS, SULTANI AND LANTANA

The Mahernia

The Mahernia—Mahernia odorata of the catalogs,
and popularly known as Honey Bell—is a most charm-
ing little plant for growing on a bracket where its
slender branches can be allowed to droop over the pot
and dispose of themselves in their own graceful
fashion. It has fine and delicate foliage, which gives it
an attractive appearance when there are no flowers on
the plant. Its flowers are small, light yellow in colcr,
and shaped like a bell. They are deliciously fravrant.
A few of them will fill a room with pleasant oder at
night. It is not a showy plant, but it does not follow
that it is lacking in beauty, or is not desirable. It
likes a light, rich soil, kept moderately moist, with
water on its foliage daily. It flourishes in a somewhat
shady window.

Browallia

A comparatively new flower, evolved from one
that enjoyed considerable popularity years ago. The
new form, however, is much superior to the old one,
being larger, more floriferous, and richer in color. It
is a deep, ultramarine blue—the only flower of that
color among our winter blooming plants, so far as my
knowledge goes. Small plants, from summer seed-
lings, will be almost completely covered with flowers
during the entire winter. Because of its shape it is
sometimes called the Giant Violet, It is not even

oS. HOME FLORICULTURE

remotely related to the Violet family, however. This
is a plant the amateur will do well to add to her
collection. It requires only the most ordinary attention
—the same soil you would give a Geranium, and
about the same amount of water, and a not too sunny
place.

The Pyrethrum

Every old garden used to have its clump of
Feverfew. Nowadays we know it as Pyrethrum, and
grow it as a house plant. It is really a most desirable
plant for the windows, because it blooms freely in
winter, and gives a steady supply of flowers through
half the year. The best variety is Little Gem. It isa
somewhat dwarf grower, but its flowers are quite as
large as those of the stronger-growing variety, and
are produced quite as freely. They are of a clear white,
very double, and about as large as a quarter of a
dollar. They closely resemble some of the white
Anemone-flowered Chrysanthemums. They are very
fine for use in small bouquets. The foliage is finely
cut, like that of some kinds of fern, and has a strong,
spicy odor when handled. The red spider likes to work
among its leaves, and will soon spoil a plant if allowed
to go on unchecked. Syringe it daily to keep him in
check. This is one of the plants. which will stand
quite a little frost without injury. On this account
it is especially adapted to cool rooms. In a very warm
room its buds often blast. It grows well in ordinary
soil. Cutting off its flowers induces the formation
of new branches, and these new branches always bear
the flowers. Therefore, do not hesitate to cut from
it freely, for cutting benefits it.

Impatiens Sultani (Zanzibar Balsam)

This is a comparatively new flower among us. It
is not as desirable as many others, perhaps, and yet

-

PYRETHRUM, IMPATIENS, LANTANA 69

it is one that you will not like to be without, after
having once grown it. It is a most cheerful looking
little plant, being almost always covered with its bright
magenta-colored blossoms, which contrast charmingly
with the rich, smooth, shining foliage. Its stalks have
an almost transparent look when you hold them
between the eye and the sun. It is not particular about
having much sunshine; indeed, I am inclined to think
it blooms best in a shaded place. It grows to be about
a foot high, and perhaps a foot and a half across,
branching freely. Its flowers are shaped very much
like the old single Balsam or Lady Slipper, but are
considerably smaller, and do not hug the stalk or hide
among the foliage as those flowers used to. It likes
a light, open soil with plenty of moisture at the roots,
and a daily bath for its foliage. Unless the latter
is given the red spider injures it. When a plant begins
to be exhausted you will find it dropping apart at its
joints. It seeds freely, and you will generally find
plenty of young seedlings coming up about the old
plant. It comes into bloom in two or three months
from the seed.

The Lantana

This old plant has held its own against all new-
comers, and is as popular to-day as it was years ago.
And its popularity as a plant for sitting room culture
is well deserved. It will flourish where nothing else
but a Geranium would look cheerful, and it will stand
all kinds of abuse and neglect. But, because it will
do this, I would not advise abusing or neglecting it.
Give it good care and let it do its best. It is not at
all particular about the soil it gets to grow in, if it
is only moderately rich. It likes plenty of sunshine,
and a moderate amount of water. It will stand any
amount of pinching and pruning, and can be made

70 HOME FLORICULTURE

to grow as atree or a shrub. It branches very freely,
and produces a cluster of flowers at nearly every leaf.
The flowers are mostly white and yellow, some varie-
ties changing from yellow to pink after the first day
or two. As the flowers on the outside of the cluster
open first, they, of course, change color sooner than
those in the center, and on this account you will find
a cluster made up of pink, yellow and nearly white
blossoms, thus giving the plant a peculiar appearance.
The pure white varieties with a lemon eye are most
desirable. The flowers have a peculiar fragrance,
which is pleasing to many, and disagreeable to some.
The odor of the foliage is not particularly agreeable.
Old plants can be set out in the garden in summer,
after having done a good winter’s work in the window,
and there they will bloom with such profusion as
to almost cover themselves with flowers through the
entire season. Cuttings start easily if taken from
half-ripened wood, and you can strike dozens of them
in March, for use in beds out of doors in summer,
from every old plant in the window.

CHAPTER XVII

THE PETUNIA, RHYNCHOSPERMUM, HELIOTROPE AND
OXALIS

The Petunia

I find the double Petunia a very poor plant for
winter culture. It does well enough in summer, but
it steadily refuses to give me any good flowers after
November. But I have no trouble in getting enormous
quantities of blossoms from the single sorts. A bou-
quet of single and double Petunias is seen in Fig 12. I
know no other flower so prolific of bloom all through
the winter as the ordinary garden Petunia, if given
half a chance. It will bloom until exhausted. Then
cut it back almost to the pot, give a weekly application
of manure water, and in a few days you will see new
shoots starting up about the base of the old stem,
and in a month it will be a large plant, loaded with
flowers and buds. The crimson purple varieties seem
best adapted to house culture. The white kinds do
very well, but they lack that purity of color which one
demands in a white flower.

A very good effect is secured by planting a crim-
son and white plant together, letting the branches
interlace. The contrast will be very pleasing.

This plant grows well when trained to a trellis,
or when allowed to droop. It must be cut back fre-
quently, if you want the greatest quantity of flowers
it can give. Its flowering depends on new growth, and
in order to have it bloom profusely you must treat it
in such a manner as to keep it producing new branches.
This treatment consists in pruning well from time

72 HOME FLORICULTURE

to time, and giving frequent applications of liquid
manure. Seedling plants from the garden beds are
excellent for winter use. lf one wants to make sure

FIG I2—BOUQUET OF SINGLE AND DOUBLE PETUNIAS

of a certain variety, however, it will be necessary to
grow a plant from a cutting of the sort desired, as
we can never be sure what a seedling will be like,

RHYNCHOSPERMUM, HELIOTROPE 73

The Rhynchospermum

This is a plant of climbing habit, having rich,
dark green, shining foliage. Its flowers are pure white,
and of peculiar appearance, as each petal is twisted in
such a manner as to give one the impression that the
turbine windmill wheel was modeled after it. The
individual flowers are small; they are borne in clusters,
and are »>roduced most freely in the spring and
early part of summer. They are of most delicious
fragrance. This plant must be trained to a trellis or
along wires in order to get the best effect from it.
It is not a showy flower, but it is one that will become
a favorite with all who are fond of beauty in modest
simplicity. Give it a loamy soil, a moderate amount
of water and comparative shade.

The Heliotrope

This is one of the most popular flowers we have,
and justly so. It is beautiful in form and color, a
great bloomer, deliciously fragrant, easily grown, and
very useful for cut flower work or personal decoration.
It can be made to bloom all the year round, but plants
for winter blooming should be kept from blooming dur-
ing the summer season. It is a most tractable plant.
You can train it as a standard, as a shrub, or to droop,
to suit your taste, and it will grow and bloom equally
well in either form. A cluster of it is powerful enough
to perfume a large room. It is one of those flowers
which win friendship, and you find yourself cherishing
a feeling of attachment for an old plant. The more
you cut it the more flowers it will give you.

In order to grow it well, it must have a sunny
window, considerable warmth, a rich, light soil, plenty
of moisture at the roots, and rather more pot room
than most plants of its size. I am often asked why

74 HOME FLORICULTURE

its leaves have such a tendency to turn black at the
edges and dry up. In nine cases out of ten this trouble
comes from one of two causes: Lack of sufficient
moisture at the roots, or lack of sufficient room for
the roots. Old plants will form a thickly matted mass
of fine, fibrous roots in the center of the pot. Through
this mass the water you apply will often fail to pene-
trate, and in consequence the roots at this place dry up
and become diseased, and in a short time the plant
drops its leaves. To avoid this trouble, see that the
soil slopes in toward the center of the pot. This will
cause the water to run in about the plant, and stand
there until it has penetrated the soil in the center of the
pot. If you think the drying up of the leaves comes
from lack of root room, turn the plant out of its pot
and examine the condition of the roots. If they fill
the soil, and form a network about the outside of it,
you may be sure that a larger pot is required. Some-
times the leaves turn brown and drop because of gas
in the room, from leaky stoves. Should the trouble
originate from this cause, the only remedy is that of
making the stove gas tight.

A well-developed specimen will need a ten-inch
pot when about a year old. The flowers are greatly
increased in size by applications of liquid manure. Do
not give it very strong, but give it often. The dark
varieties are best. It can be grown from cuttings,
started in sand. Young plants are generally most
satisfactory for winter use, therefore start some each
spring, and give the old ones a place in the garden
beds, in summer, where they will bloom profusely.

The Ovalis

This is a good plant for house culture. It is a
most profuse bloomer, and gives its greatest quantity
of flowers in winter if the bulbs or tubers from which

THE OXALIS 75

it grows are allowed to dry off and rest during summer.
It has very pretty foliage, shaped like that of the clover,
borne on long and slender stems, which droop over
the edge of the pot in such a manner as to almost,
if not quite, hide it. The flowers of O. rosea (Fig 13)
are a bright pink, star-shaped, and borne in clusters
of a dozen or more, on long, erect stems. Those of

FIG I3—OXALIS ROSEA

the variety called Buttercup are a rich canary-yellow,
slightly tubular in form, and larger than those of
any other Oxalis I have ever grown. This is one of
the best winter-flowering plants we have. It is of
larger growth than the pink or white sort and blooms
with much greater profusion. To grow any variety
of this plant well, give it a soil of rich, light, sandy
loam, plenty of water, while growing and blooming,
and all the sunshine possible. All varieties are well

76 HOME FLORICULTURE

adapted to basket culture because of the spread-
ing and drooping nature of their foliage. In spring,
withhold water and let the foliage die off. Do not
disturb the tubers until October. Then shake them
out of the soil, repot them, water well, and they will
soon start into growth. They will begin to bloom
about the first of January and continue to do so
until May.

CHAPTER XIX

ACHANIA, HIBISCUS, CYCLAMEN AND THE
JASMINES

The Achania

This well-known old plant is not seen in window
gardens as frequently as it ought to be. It is one
of those plants which no insect ever attacks if there is
any other plant for it to feed on. Because of this, and
of its ability to stand dry air, frequent and sudden
changes of temperature, dust, and a good deal of heat,
it is one of the best of all plants for the amateur
to take in hand at the outset of his career as a floricul-
turist. It has pleasing, dark-green foliage, shaped
very much like that of the Abutilon. Its flowers are
a rich scarlet, and when seen among the green of its
leaves, they give a most brilliant bit of color. They
are never borne in great profusion, but a well-grown
plant will seldom be without a few on each branch,
therefore it is much more satisfactory than many plants
which bloom by “fits and starts,” and can never be
depended on for flowers. It requires ordinary soil,
about the same amount of water as the Geranium,
and a sunny location. It becomes quite a shrub
with age.

The Chinese Hibdiscus

The Hibiscus seems to be a plant comparatively
little known, but its merits as a summer bloomer are
so great that it ought to be grown by all who are fond
of beautiful flowers, and a brilliant show of color. As

78 HOME FLORICULTURE

a plant for growing in large pots or tubs, to decorate
the porch or veranda, I know of nothing superior.
For the summer decoration of the greenhouse or small
conservatory, which is likely to be somewhat neglected
at this season, it is one of our very best plants. If
I were to choose three plants for such use, I would
take the Fuchsia, Gloxinia and Hibiscus. These are
all summer bloomers, profuse in flowering, beautiful in
habit, and of the greatest variety of color, and all are
easily grown.

The Hibiscus delights in a rich soil, made up of
loam, woods earth, and some old and thoroughly rotted
manure, with sand enough added to make the mass
light and porous. Especial care must be taken to give
good drainage, as the plant will be pretty sure to drop
its leaves and buds if there is stagnant water at its
roots. It must be watered regularly. One neglect to
do this gives it a check which will injure it for all
the season. If you want fine plants, they must be
grown on steadily, and anything which interferes with
steady growth will prevent success. They are fond of
sunshine, but should be protected from the intense heat
of the afternoon. They are also fond of a good deal
of moisture on their foliage. The leaves are a rich,
shining green, and form a fine background for the
large and exceedingly brilliant flowers, which are often
of the size of a Hollyhock, which flower some varieties
resemble. The color of most varieties is a bright, glow-
ing scarlet.

The plant should be dried off gradually in October,
to prepare it for winter in the cellar. Bring up in
March, repot, and cut back well. Many complain that
it drops its buds at the least provocation, and often
without any, in fact. I have had plants which would
do this, but careful examination has always shown
me that there was some cause, and that I have most

THE CYCLAMEN 79

always found to be defective root action. Drainage
must be perfect, the soil must be kept moist but not
wet, and the red spider must be kept from working
on the plant.

The Cyclamen
The Cyclamen is a good plant for culture in the
sitting room window. Its foliage is very pretty, that
of most varieties being blotched and marbled with
light green on a darker surface, with reddish veins

FIG I4—THE PERSIAN CYCLAMEN

80 HOME FLORICULTURE

running through it. The flowers are mostly of shades
of pink and mauve, passing into white toward the
extremity of the petals, which are sharply reflexed. A
well-grown plant will seldom be without flowers from
January to April. The bulbs should be pressed down
on top of the soil to about half their depth. They like
a rich soil, with plenty of sand in it. They do not
require much water, but they must not be allowed
to get dry during their season of flowering. A weeklv
application of liquid manure helps to increase the size
and quantity of the flowers. In summer the bulbs
should be dried off gradually, and the pots containing
them put out of doors in some shady place where they
will get plenty of air. Give just enough water to
keep them from drying up. Repot in September, using
the same size of pot they have been growing in. Do
not be alarmed if the bulbs lose their foliage in sum-
mer. As long as the bulbs remain plump and hard
they are all right. Old bulbs, however, are not so
desirable as young ones, and I would advise the
purchase of young plants each season in preference
to keeping over plants which have done duty in the
house for a season. The Cyclamen is generally classed
among the bulbs. It is not a bulb, however, strictly
speaking. A well-grown plant of Cyclamen Persicum
is seen in Fig 14.

The Jasmines

Under the name of Jasmine or Jessamine several
different kinds of plants are popular with most ama-
teur floriculturists, because of the ease with which they
can be grown. Give them soil of ordinary richness,
sunshine, and keep them free from insects, and they
vare pretty sure to do well in the sitting room or in the
greenhouse.

THE JASMINES 81

One of the most popular kinds of these plants is
the Cestrum, commonly known as Jasmine. C. Parqui
is a species with greenish-yellow, tubular flowers, borne
in racemes on the ends of the branches. These open at
night and emit a heavy, rich fragrance which will per-
vade the air to a great distance. One cluster will fill
a large room with its perfume. It grows very rapidly,
becoming a strong shrub in a few months. It has large
and handsome foliage, and produces a fine effect when
given a pot large enough to allow free development
of its roots. It is excellent for use as the center of a
group in a bay window. It can be wintered in the
cellar.

Cestrum aurantiacum resembles C. Parqui very
much in foliage and habit of growth, but its flowers
are a pale yellow. They are produced in great profu-
sion during the latter part of summer. This plant
is best taken care of over winter by putting in the
cellar. It forms a charming shrub, or can be trained
as a standard.

Gardenia florida is known as the Cape Jasmine. It
has rich, shining foliage of a dark green. Its flowers
are white, thick and waxy in texture, and possess an
odor similar to that of the Tuberose. It is a summer
bloomer, and should be wintered in the cellar. It is not
a rank grower, seldom getting to be more than a small
shrub outside of a greenhouse at the North. Shower
well often, to keep down red spider, and see that the
scale does not get on it. Give a sandy soil, moderate
amount of water, and a sunny place.

Jasminum grandifiorum, a true Jasmine, is a
favorite old plant. It is a climber. It grows quite
rapidly, and will clamber all about the window in one
season. It has fine foliage, and bears star-shaped,
pure white flowers in great profusion. These are
delightfully sweet. Its season of flowering is from
November till May.

82 HOME FLORICULTURE

Jasminum revolutum is a kind of half-shrubby.
half-climbing species, with thick evergreen foliage. Its
flowers are a rich yellow, and fragrant. Give a sandy
soil, made rich with rotten manure. Drain well, and —
apply water daily to the foliage. Cut back from time
to time to induce constant development of new
branches. Give a good amount of sunshine, and a
warm place to grow in.

CHAPTER XX
THE CALLA, SALVIA, BOUVARDIA AND GENISTA

The Calla

This plant is one of the most popular on the list.
Its large, rich green leaves, thrown up well above the

FIG I5—CALLA BLOSSOMS AND LEAVES

84 HOME FLORICULTURE

pot on their long stalks, are quite ornamental enough
in themselves to give it an honorable place in any
collection; add to the attractiveness of these its large
white blossom, as the spathe surrounding the spadix
is incorrectly called, and it is not at all to be wondered
at that it is, and long has been, a general favorite. For
the center of a bay window collection it is unexcelled,
when well grown. A typical specimen Calla is shown
in Fig 15.

It is one of those plants which can be kept growing
all the year round without seeming to be injured by
this treatment. I have seen fine plants which had been
kept growing for years, and so far as I could see,
they were strong and healthy. But I have always
had the most flowers from the Calla when the roots
were dried off every summer. My plan is to put the
pot out of doors in June, on its side. No water is
given from that time to September. Then I turn the
earth out of the pot, shake away the soil from the
roots, and repot them in a compost made up of muck,
well-rotted manure and sand, taking care to put more
sand immediately about the bulb than elsewhere. I
provide the best of drainage. Though a semi-aquatic
plant, it does not delight in stagnant water about its
roots. The requisite amount of water can be given
by watering daily, and giving it in such quantities that
some will run through at the bottom of the pot.. In
winter let the water be warm. Shower the foliage
daily. Give a light but not very sunny window, and
keep it rather warm. Do not let more than three or
four crowns remain in a ten-inch pot. Keep all offsets
beyond this number removed as they appear. Four
crowns will give you, or ought to give you, about
sixteen strong, healthy leaves at a time, and during
the flowering season each crown ought to give from
three to four flowers.

SALVIA, BOUVARDIA 85

The Salvia

The Scarlet Salvia—S. splendens of the catalogs—
is a fine plant for house culture, provided the red spider
can be kept from werking on it. If not showered well
daily, this pest will soon ruin it. It grows to the
hight of three or four feet, in a good soil, if given
plenty of root room. It has large, rich, shining foliage,
and bears long spikes of velvety scarlet flowers, of
most intense richness of color. it is one of our best
autumn flowering garden plants, and young plants can
be taken away from about the roots of the old ones
in September and potted for winter use. In a short
time they will become good specimens, and by Novem-
ber they will come into bloom. If the spikes are cut
off as soon as the flowers on them fade, new branches
will be sent out below, which, in turn, will produce
flowers. As growth will go on all winter, if good
soil is given, flowers will be borne constantly, and in
great profusion, and nothing finer in the way of vivid
and brilliant show can be imagined. Its flowers have
a fiery luster equal to those of the Lobelia cardinalis.
They are excellent for cutting for use in bouquets.

The Bouvardia

This plant would be a general favorite with all
who love beautiful flowers if it were of easier cultiva-
tion. But, as generally grown, it is unsatisfactory.
This is the fault of the grower, rather than of the plant,
however. If proper attention is given to the soil and
general requirements of the plant, it can be made to
bloom successfully in the window, but if neglected
in these respects it will generally refuse to blossom;
or if it bears flowers they will be so few and inferior
that after a year or two the ewner gets tired of trying
to grow good plants and they will be thrown aside
for something less exacting.

86 MOMB FLORICULTURE

I find that in order to have good flowers from this
plant in the sitting room in winter one must take
especial pains with the plants in summer. I take the
old plants in June and break the roots apart. Leave
several “eyes,” or growing points, to each plant. Set
in the open ground, in a light, rich, sandy soil. Soon
several shoots will appear. Let as many grow as you
think will be needed to give you a good-sized plant
in fall. After they have made a growth of a foot,
cut the tops off to induce branching. In this manner
you secure plenty of flowering surface for next winter’s
crop of flowers.

In September lift and pot your plants. Have the
compost rich, and see that it has a good proportion
of sharp sand in it. Set the plants in shade for two
or three weeks, watering well when potted. Do not
take inside until they seem thoroughly established in
their pots. Then give a sunny window, plenty of air
overhead, and a moderate amount of water. Great care
must be taken to prevent the red spider and aphis
from attacking them; also the mealy bug. All these
insects seem to have an especial fondness for this plant.
In November the plants will begin to show flowers,
and if they are given a good cutting back occasionally,
and liquid manure is applied weekly, and they can
have a somewhat warm, but not hot, place to grow
in, they will give a steady succession of flowers all
through the season.

There are several fine varieties. Some are a bril-
liant scarlet; others a soft rose color, while some are
pure white, and last year we had a sulphur-yellow
variety heralded in the catalogs. It was valuable only
as promising something better in that color by and
by. There are double and single sorts, both equally
desirable. For small bouquets, corsage decorations,
and the like, few flowers are superior. They have a

a

THE GENISTA 87

grace and delicacy which commend them to all who
love flowers for individual beauty. In the greenhouse
we have few better plants. They grow to perfection
there on account of warmth and moisture and even
temperature.

The Genista

This plant has lately come into popularity because
the florists have taken it in hand and made it familiar
to the flower-loving public, by bringing it into bloom

FIG I16—THE GENISTA

88 HOME FLORICULTURE

at Easter time, when liberal use is made of it in the
decoration of churches for the special services of
the season. Its flowers are pea shaped, and borne in
short spikes all over the many branches. In color
they are a rich, glowing yellow, and the popular
name of “the flower of the cloth of gold” is a most
appropriate one. They have a very pleasing fragrance.
The foliage is fine and plentiful, and makes the plant
well worth growing if it had no flowers. To succeed
With it, care must be taken to see that it never gets
dry at the roots. If this occurs, its leaves will drop.
Especial care must be taken to prevent the soil from
drying out as flowering time approaches. Then give
liberal applications of fertilizer to encourage the free
development of bulbs. Shower frequently throughout
the season. Give a soil of loam and shift when the
old pots become full of roots. A well-grown specimen
is seen in Fig 16.

CHAPTER XXI

THE AMARYLLIS, VALLOTA, GLOXINIA AND TUBER-
OUS BEGONIA

The Amaryllis

This is a noble genus of plants. The flowers are
gorgeous in coloring and conspicuous on acount of
shape and habit of growth. A fine plant, when in
bloom, aiways elicits great admiration, and there are
few collections which do not include one or more
varieties. But, as a general thing, few plants are more
unsatisfactory. It is a general complaint from ladies
‘that “my Amaryllis won’t bloom. What is the matter
with it?”

As a general thing the “matter” is simply this:
The habit of the plant is not understood. It must
have a period of rest after each period of growth, and
unless these periods succeed each other regularly you
will be likely to get no flowers. As generally grown,
the plants are kept growing all the season. They are
kept in the window, and water given regularly. This
is wrong. While making new leaves growth should
be encouraged. When the leaves stop coming and the
older ones begin to turn yellow, you may take it as an
indication that the plant wants to rest. Encourage
it to do this in as complete a manner as possible by
withholding water. Not so much so that the soil
becomes quite dry, but just moist enough to keep
the bulb plump. Set away from the light. If the
foliage all dies off it does not matter.

Among the first indications of a resumption of
growth will quite often be the appearance of a flower
stalk. When this shows, give liquid manure, livht

Amaryllis

Hippeastrum Zephyranthes

FIG I17—PROMINENT TYPES OF AMARYLLIS

Sorekella

i
.
|

THE VALLOTA gl

and warmth. The blossoms are shaped like those of
the Trumpet Lily. There will generally be three or
tour on each stalk. Some are scarlet striped with
white down each petal. Some are rose color striped
with white, while others are scarlet with white flakes
and marblings, or white with flaking of the darker
color. If care is taken to give alternate periods of
rest and growth, and make each condition as complete
as possible, a crop or two of flowers can be looked for
each year with reasonable certainty. A well grown
plant is a superb sight, either in the sitting room or
greenhouse. There are several distinct types of
Amaryllis, some of the leading ones are shown in

Fig 17.
The Vallota

Vallota purpurea, or Scarborough Lily, is well
known as a good late summer or early fall flowering
bulb. It is often called an Amaryllis, and indeed
it is a member of that family, but it does not require
the treatment recommended for that flower, and, unlike
that, it can be depended on with tolerable certainty to
give a crop of blossoms in August or September of
each year. Its flowers are produced on stalks about
a foot in hight. Each stalk bears from three to six,
as seen in Fig 18. They are shaped like those of
the Amaryllis, but are not so large. In color they are
a glowing scarlet, and when seen among the dark
green foliage of which the plant bears a profusion,
they are extremely brilliant and effective. It is an
easily grown plant. It does best when stored in a
cool, dry cellar in winter. If kept for pot flowering,
it seems to be somewhat opposed to having its roots
disturbed. Therefore, if it is found necessary to repot
it, do this immediately after its annual blooming season
in order to give the bulbs a chance to become perfectly

FIG 18—VALLOTA puRP

UREA

THE GLOXINIA 93

established before the next season comes around. If
this is not done till spring, it has, with me, almost
always refused to bloom for a year. It produces new
bulbs rapidly, and most of these should be removed
as they appear, or you will soon have a pot filled to its
edge with small plants which will interfere with the
vigorous blooming of the older bulbs. Four or six
old bulbs in a ten-inch pot will be sufficient. Save
the offsets and plant them out in the garden in spring
where they will be likely to bloom the second season,
In fall they can be taken up and stored away with
Tuberoses and other bulbs of that class.

The Gloxinia

The Gloxinia is one of the very finest of all sum-
mer blooming plants for window or greenhouse culture.
It is wonderfully rich and varied in its coloring. In
this respect it quite equals the Pansy. Its depth of
color gives it a velvety look which always challenges
admiration from the lover of rich and magnificent
coloring. In shape it somewhat resembles the well-
known old Canterbury Bell of the border, as shown
in Fig 19. The flowers of most varieties are drooping
in habit, though some are erect. The colors range
through all shades of scarlet, crimson, rose, purple,
lilac, lemon-yellow and blue to pure white. Some will
have a white throat, while all the rest of the flower
is dark. Others will have an edge merely of white,
while others will have heavy blotchings of vividly
contrasting colors. The flower is thick in texture,
and frequently lasts for a week before falling off.
There will be from three to six at a time on well-grown
plants, with buds in all stages of development. If
plants are started in March or April they ought to
come into bloom by June, and from that time to

94 HOME FLORICULTURE

November they should give a steady succession of
bloom.

The Gloxinia can be grown from seed. The
directions given regarding the growing of the Mimulus
from seed will apply in this case. But as plants will
not be likely to reach a flowering size before two
years, under ordinary treatment, I would advise buying

FIG I19--HYBRID GLOXINIAS

tubers. In this way you can be sure of flowers the
first season. This plant likes a light soil, made up
principally of leaf mold, with considerable sand worked
in. Use enough leaf mold, with all the roots dug
with it left in, or turfy matter full of fibrous grass
roots, to make the compost sponvy in character. Put

THE GLOXINIA 95

a root an inch across in a five-inch pot. For larger
tubers use a six-inch pot. Plant them so that the top
of the root will be covered about half an inch. Give
a warm, moist place, but not very strong sunshine
at any time. When blooming give a shady place,
as the thick flowers are easily affected by the rays
of the sun, and turn brown in a short time. Give
water enough while the plant is growing to keep
the soil moist all through. The Gloxinia likes a good
deal of moisture in the air, but does not care to have
it applied to its foliage by showering. A well-grown
specimen will have foliage six or eight inches long
and about four inches across, and the leaves will droop
or curve over the pot in such a manner as to almost
hide it. The foliage, like the flowers, is very thick
and heavy in texture, and because of its tenderness
is easily injured in handling, therefore do not bruise
it if possible to avoid doing so, or the leaves will have
discolored spots on them which render them unsightly,
anda good background or foundation of perfect foliage
is necessary in showing off the flowers to the best
advantage. When in bloom give semi-weekly applica-
tions of not too strong manure water. This will
increase the size and quantity of the flowers greatly.

About November, and sometimes earlier, the
flowers will begin to diminish in size and number, and
the foliage will show yellow edges. This indicates a
desire on the part of the plant to rest. Encourage
it to do so by withholding water, not all at once,
but gradually. The leaves will ripen and drop off one
by one. When they are all gone, set the pots con-
taining the tubers away in some place where they will
be safe from frost, and allow them to remain there till
the following March, giving no water meantime. Then
repot them, and start into new growth by giving water.
light and warmth. Some persons take their Gloxinias

96 HOME FLORICULTURE

out of the pots in fall and store in sand or sawdust,
but I have come to the conclusion that leaving them
in the pots where they grew during summer is the
safest plan, if one is careful to dry them off well
before putting them away. Of course they should not
be stored in a place where the air is so dry that the
tubers will be withered. There should be just enough
moisture furnished to keep them in a plump condition
while resting.

Tuberous Begonias

These plants are revelations to us. They are a
“new departure” in the Begonia line and convince us
that still greater surprises are in store for us from this
wonderfully versatile family. They come in a wide
range of colors, many of them being as rich and deep
in tone as the darker Geraniums, while some are
exceedingly delicate in coloring. Some are double,
some single—all showy, and sure to attract attention.
They require the same treatment in all particulars as
the Gloxinia.

CHAPTER XXII

THE ABUTILON, MIMULUS, CINERARIA AND
CALCEOLARIA

The Abutilon

The Abutilon, Chinese Bell Flower, or Flowering
Maple, as it is known in various sections of the coun-
try, is one of the best of all plants for house culture.
It is a free grower, a good bloomer, and gives its
greatest crop of flowers during the winter season, when
flowers are most highly prized. It is a plant that does
not require coaxing to grow well. It stands dry air,
dust and frequent changes of temperature better than
almost any other plant, and is seldom attacked by any
insect. All these things taken together make it a plant
especially adapted to the wants of the amateur. It is a
good plant to begin on.

A well-grown specimen is always a source of
pleasure to the lover of fine plants. A poorly grown
plant is an eyesore, for if awkward at all it is likely to
be very much so. There is no reason why your plants
should not be well shaped if you are willing to give
them a little care. All that is required is judicious
pruning at the proper time. The Abutilon is a very
tractable plant, and can be made to assume almost any
form desired. If you want a shrub of it pinch back
while small, to induce the formation of branches near
the pot. If a tree shape is preferred let a straight stalk
grow to the hight of two, three or four feet, accord-
ing to the hight desired for the top or head of your
tree. Then pinch back, and let branches start, being
careful to leave only those near the top. By pinching

98 HOME FLORICULTURE

these back in turn you can force other branches to
break, and in this manner a bushy head can be formed
with but little trouble.

The flowers are pendulous, and shaped like a bell,
hence the name of Bell Flower, while the foliage of
most varieties is shaped like that of the Maple, hence
the name of Flowering Maple. The colors run through
various shades of red, pink, orange, clear yellow and
crimson-purple to pure white. A well-grown plant,
when in full bloom, is a beautiful sight, with its grace-
ful bells pendent from their long and slender stems,
showing against the pleasing and abundant foliage.
King of Roses is a beautiful, soft rose color, veined
with white. It is a most profuse bloomer, and makes
strong growth. Golden Fleece is pure yellow, also a
great bloomer. Crusader is a rich scarlet. Boule de
Neige is a pure white, very delicate in habit, and one
of the best. There are several fine variegated sorts.
One of the best is 4. Thompsonii, with leaves elegantly
marbled in mosaic-like pattern with light and dark
green and yellow. A. vevillariwm is a trailing variety,
with long and pointed leaves of green and yellow. It
is a charming plant for a basket, or for growing in a
pot on a bracket. A. Savitsti has foliage of a pale
green, heavily edged and marked with white, and is
one of our very best variegated plants for decorative
purposes.

The Abutilon likes about the same kind of soil
that suits the Geranium. It must have considerable pot
room if you want to develop the full beauty of the
plant. Shower well to keep the foliage clean, and
bring out the beauty and brightness of it to the best
advantage. The scale sometimes gets on the stalk. In
case you find it there, scrub the plant well with an old
brush and soapsuds. Cuttings can be started very
easily at any time of the year. If you want your

THE MIMULUS 99

plants for winter blooming, keep them pretty dry
during summer. Repot in September, cutting the
branches in well at that time. If allowed to bloom in
summer, they can be kept over winter in the cellar.
Old plants can be set out on the lawn in summer,
where they will bloom with great profusion till the
coming of cold weather.

The Mimulus

Mimulus moschatus, or Musk Plant, so called on
account of the peculiar musky odor of its foliage, has
long been grown in window gardens, where it has
given very good satisfaction. Its flowers of yellow
blotched with maroon have a bright and cheerful look
in midwinter. It is easily raised from seed. If wanted
for winter blooming, sow in June, in pots or pans of
very fine, light earth. Sprinkle the surface of the soil
before sowing the seed, and press down smoothly with
the hand. Then scatter the fine seed over the soil, after
which press the earth in the pot or pan again to imbed
the seed in it. Because it is so fine, it is hardly safe
to attempt to cover it, and it will germinate quite as
well without being covered if it is kept moist. The
young plants will soon appear. Do not force them or
they will become weak and spindling. Give plenty of
fresh air, and, after a little, the early morning sun-
shine. These directions, it will be well to bear in
mind, are for a June sowing, for the purpose of raising
plants for winter use.

When five or six leaves have been made, pick off
the young plants into two or three-inch pots, filled with
ordinary potting soil. Do not give too much heat, and
keep sheltered from winds, as the plants are always
tender and therefore easily bruised. If strong plants
are desired, frequent shifts must be made. Pinch the
branches back to make the plants bushy, and do not

100 HOME FLORICULTURE

allow them to bloom during the fall. A seven-inch pot
will afford ample room for the roots of a good speci-
men. A liberal supply of water should be given, but
the soil must be kept light and porous to prevent the
bad effects of overwatering. Be sure to see that the
drainage is perfect. When in bloom give a rather
shady window. An east one is much preferable to a
south one. This plant is excellent for basket use if
you are particular to give it all the water it wants.
The lately introduced varieties are much larger than
the old M. moschatus, and have very rich flowers,
rivaling in brilliance the Tiger Lily, which they some-
what resemble in the vividness of their markings.

The Cuineraria

This is a most magnificent winter blooming plant.

Its flowers are produced in great numbers, in flat
clusters, and almost cover the plant, as seen in Fig 20.
They are wonderfully rich and varied in coloring, and
a good-sized plant, in full bloom, is a flower show in
itself. The flowers are about an inch across, mostly
single. Some will be dark in color the whole length
of the petal, with a yellow center, while others will
be rayed or banded with white. The prevailing color
is a rich purplish-crimson, running through many
shades. The flower stalks are thrown up among the
strong foliage which covers the soil and spreads over
the edges of the pot. This plant can be grown from
seed, which should be sown as directed for the Mimu-
-lus. March or April sowings will generally give
winter flowering plants. But I would advise buying
young plants in spring rather than depending upon
seedlings of your own raising. In order to grow good
plants from seed the amateur is obliged to work very
carefully, as young plants are extremely delicate, and

VYHE CILNERARIA 101

a little mismanagement is likely to result in entire
failure. I would not be understood as attempting to
iliscourage the amateur from experimenting in grow-
ing plants from seed, but what I niean is this: That
he will always find it safer to depend on plants which
he can buy of the florist.

FIG 2O0—SPECIMEN CINERARIA PLANT

The Cineraria should be repotted from time ta
time during the summer. By November it ought to be
growing in a seven-inch pot. When you have brought
it to this stage, do not shift again, but let the roots
fill the soil until they become somewhat pot-bound, in

102 HOME FLORICULTURE

which condition it will bloom better than it will in a
pot containing soil which is not completely filled
with roots.

The great drawback to the successful culture of
the Cineraria in the sitting room is its liability to
attacks of the aphis. Quite often before you suspect
the presence of this insect the underside of the leaves
will be covered with them. If not driven away your
plants will be ruined. I have found the soap insecti-
cide heretofore spoken of most effective in fighting
this pest. Dip the plants in the liquid, instead of
showering them, and let it dry on the lower side of
the leaf, where it seems to leave a “‘tang’”’ which the
aphis is not fond of. Give ordinary soil, and moderate
amount of water, with plenty of light.

Do not attempt to carry over old plants for a
second season’s flowering. Get young, strong plants
each season, in fall, if you want fine flowers from the
Cineraria.

The Calceolana

This is a fine plant for late summer and fall use.
It produces a wonderful profusion of flowers in large,
branching clusters, very peculiar in shape. Each
flower is a sort of bag, like our native Moccasin
Flower. The colors range through yellow, maroon
and crimson, most varieties being thickly spotted with
contrasting colors. The plants can be grown from
seed, or you can buy them in spring from the florist.
The seed, like that of most greenhouse plants, is very
fine, and extreme care must be taken in sowing it not
to cover deeply with soil or it will fail to germinate.
The directions given for Mimulus apply equally well
to the Calceolaria. Give it a moderate amount of
water, ordinary soil and sunshine. Like the Cineraria,
it is subject to attacks from the aphis, and must be

THE CALCEOLARIA £103

watched carefully to guard against the depredations
of this insect. Apply the soap insecticide as advised
for the Cineraria. Late-sown plants can be made to
bloom in winter if the air in which they are grown
can be kept moist enough to keep the red spider from
working. A well-grown specimen plant is seen in

Fig 21.

FIG 2I—SPECIMEN CALCEOLARIA PLANT.

CHAPTER XXIII

THE HYDRANGEA, DAPHNE, OLEA FRAGRANS AND
MYRTLE

The Hydrangea

The Hydrangea is a prime favorite with all who
have room for a shrub of the size which it attains with
age. Its large, rich foliage, of the brightest green,
gives it an attractive appearance at any time. When to
this is added the immense clusters of flowers which
are produced so freely during summer, and which
last so long, it is certainly a plant to be admired.

Old plants often get to be four and five feet high,
with many branches, and each branch will bend beneath
the weight of its great panicle of bloom. These pan-
icles are often eight inches across. They are com-
posed of hundreds of individual flowers. The best
known species, 7. hortensis, bears bright pink blos-
soms, gradually changing to a pale green. They
remain for months.

The culture required is very simple. Give a soil
of ordinary richness, water freely while growing, and
keep from the hot sun. In fall gradually withhold
water, and put the plants in the cellar over winter.
Give plenty of root room. An old plant will require
a large box or tub if you expect a yearly development
of strong branches from which the flowers of the next
year will be produced. This plant shares in popularity
with the Oleander, and, like that plant, it is one of
the best for summer decoration of the piazza or lawn.
A pretty variety for the window is H. speciosa varie-
gata, having a leaf of bright, shining green, banded

HYDRANGEA, DAPHNE 105

down its center with pure white. Like most varie-
gated-leaved plants, especially those having a pure
white variegation, it is somewhat delicate and will not
do well out of doors. The variety Otaksa (Fig 22) is
a stronger grower and more profuse bloomer, and is
especially suited for pot culture for decorative
purposes.

FIG 22—HYDRANGEA OTAKSA

The Daphne Odora

This old plant is not as well known as it ought
to be, or as it would be if its merits were more
familiar to the flower-loving public. It is an evergreen
shrub, having thick, dark green foliage. On the

106 HOME FLORICULTURE

extremities of its branches it produces clusters of
flowers, mostly white, but having sometimes a slight
pinkish or lilac tinge. They have a most delicious
fragrance, and on this account, if for no other, the
plant ought to become a favorite. But it is quite as
- beautiful as it is sweet. A plant will reach a hight
of three feet in five or six years, with many branches.
If left to train itself it generally branches a few inches
from the pot, but it can be made to assume a tree shape.
It can be wintered in the cellar.

Olea_ fragrans

This species of Olive, which is also known as
Osmanthus (fragrant flower), is a most delightful little
plant for those who love flowers for individual merit
rather than mere show of color. It has foliage of a
thick, leathery texture, and on this account is well
adapted to culture in a room where there is dust and
hot, dry air, all plants having this kind of foliage
standing these drawbacks to successful cultivation
much better than those having thin or soft foliage. It
is a slow grower, and does not become a large plant
outside of a greenhouse. Its flowers are so small as to
be inconspicuous, and often you would hardly suspect
their existence were it not for their delicious fragrance,
which is strong enough to pervade a large room. The
odor has some of the peculiarities of the tuberose scent,
being rich and heavy, but not so much so as to be
sickening or cloying. Give ordinary soil, a half-shady
place, moderate supply of water, and keep the plant
clean.

The Myrtle

This plant is seldom seen in perfection in the
living room of American families, but among the
Germans remarkably fine specimens will be found. I

OLEO FRAGRANS, MYRTLE 107

have seen plants five and six feet tall, with a spread
of three feet, thickly set with branches from the pot
to the top of the plant, and every branch apparently
retaining all the leaves it ever had. The beauty of
such a specimen, in its luxuriance of glossy, dark
foliage, makes one long to find out the secret of its most
successful cultivation. I have repeatedly asked the
owners of such plants how they grew them to such
perfection. The answer almost invariably is: “Use
rich soil, and keep them clean.” Beyond this, they do
not recognize any special requirement on the part of
the plant. An examination of the soil in which I have
found fine specimens growing has convinced me that
a sandy loam suits them best. This should be made
quite rich, and kept moderately moist. By “keeping
clean,” I presume the owners meant that frequent
showering was advisable. I have never seen but one
insect on this plant, and that is scale. By dipping it
in an infusion of lemon oil, the plant can soon be freed
from the ravages of this pest. The kind of Myrtle
in common use is M. communis. It blooms in spring,
and has a charming little white flower, whose petals
are as daintily delicate as frostwork.

CHAPTER XXIV

SWAINSONIA, JUSTICIA, LINUM, CLIVIA, BOUGAIN-
VILLEA, MARGUERITE, PENTAS, TROPAEO-
LUM AND EUPHORBIA

qwainsonia

A very desirable, free-flowering plant. There are
two varieties in general cultivation, alba, white and
rosea, pink. Their flowers are produced in clusters.
They are like those of the Pea in shape. The foliage
is profuse, and of a rich green, and being finely cut, it
furnishes a pretty background for the flowers. Con-
siderable pot room and plenty of water should be
given. Fine for greenhouse or window garder

Justicia

A very easily grown plant. Flowers pink, pro-
duced in large, upright heads. Give a sandy soil,
moderate amount of water and a sunny window.

Linum Trigynwm

A favorite house plant. Flowers rich yellow,
produced so freely as to cover the branches. Subject
to red spider.

Clivia, or Imantophylhun

This plant ought to be better known. It is of
very easy culture. It has leaves like those of the
Amaryllis. Its flowers are lily-shaped, borne in large
clusters. They remain for a long time. Color, orange,
with buff markings at the throat. Roots thick and

CLIVIA, BOUGAINVILLEA, MARGUERITES 109g

fleshy, throwing the crown of the plant well above
the soil, unless frequently repotted. Grows in any
good soil.

Bougainvillea glabra Sanderiana

One of the most striking plants of recent introduc-
tion. Unlike the older forms of Bougainvillea this
variety is of close, compact habit. It comes into
bloom in February or March. What are generally
considered its flowers are really bracts inclosing the
true flowers, which are small and inconspicuous.
These bracts are a bright rosy crimson. They literally
cover the plant and remain for months. It is of the
easiest possible culture. Give it a sandy soil, a sunny
location, and plenty of water while growing. After
the bracts lose their brilliance, cut the plant back
sharply, shortening every branch until it is little more
than a spur. Keep rather dry for about two months.
In October, repot and encourage growth. Seldom
troubled with insects of any kind.

Marguerites

Paris Daisies. Charming plants for winter flow-
ering. Foliage very attractive, being finely cut.
Flowers single, and shaped exactly like those of the
Meadow or Field Daisy, but having narrow petals,
and more of them. The white variety is most
extensively grown, but the yellow variety ought to be
in every collection. Strong growers. Must have
plenty of pot room in order to do well. Pinch back
at intervals during summer, to insure compact form.
Often troubled with scale. Use lemon or fir-tree oil,
and scrub the stalk well with a stiff brush. Does well
anywhere. Excellent for cutting. A good plant for
Easter use.

IIo HOME FLORICULTURE

Pentas lanceolata

A plant not very extensively grown, because it is
not as well known as it ought to be. Its flowers are
pure white, in clusters. They resemble those of the
Bouvardia somewhat in general appearance, but are
larger. An excellent winter bloomer.

Tropaeolum

These are good winter bloomers if the red spider
is kept from injuring them. Give them a sunny place,
and a soil of only moderate richness. In a rich soil,
they produce branches luxuriantly, but have but few
flowers. A new variety, Phoebe, is one of the best
for greenhouse culture in winter. Its flowers are a
rich yellow, with a blotch of crimson maroon on each
petal. This variety grows to a hight of ten feet and
must be trained on strings or wire netting.

Euphorbia Jacquiniflora

One of the old favorites, fast regaining its former
popularity because of its great merit. Flowers of
bright orange scarlet, in drooping, graceful sprays.
Excellent for winter use.

CHAPTER XXV
THE ABUTILON, BEGONIA AND ROSE

The Abutilon

Chinese Bell Flower, so called because of the
shape of their pendent flowers; also known as Flower-
ing Maple, because of the resemblance of its foliage
to that of our native Maple. An excellent plant for
the house or greenhouse, because of its sturdy habit,
profuse flowering qualities and the beauty of its blos-
soms. Requires about the same care as the Geranium.
Can be grown as a small tree, by training as advised
in the remarks on the Chrysanthemum. The follow-
ing are among the most distinct sorts:

Boule de Neige—Pure white.

Royal Scarlet—Rich scarlet. Very fine.

Rosaeflora—Bright rose.

Splendens—Red.

Infanta Eulalia—Pink. Great bloomer.

Golden Fleece—Yellow. Free flowering.

A list of varieties having beautifully variegated
foliage will be found in the chapters devoted to the
description of Decorative Plants.

Begonia

Everybody grows this plant, and almost everybody
succeeds with it, because it is one of the plants that
needs no coaxing or humoring. Give it a soil con-
taining considerable leaf mold or turfy matter, or one
of loam and sand, drain its pots well, and keep it out
of the hot sun, and you will be sure to get plenty

112 HOME FLORICULTURE

of flowers. It is seldom attacked by insects, but has
been troubled, somewhat, of late, with the fungous
disease of which mention has been made. This can
be kept in check easily by the use of Copperdine.

There are many varieties in cultivation, all good,
but the amateur who is obliged to confine his or her
selection to a few varieties will find the following list
to include the best and most distinct sorts :

Haageana—A robust variety, having bronze-green
foliage, and large, rosy-white flowers.

Rubra—A grand old variety. Strong grower.
Flowers coral red, in enormous, drooping, spreading
panicles. Always in bloom. The Begonia for every-
body to grow.

Semperflorens gigantea—Carmine flowers, large
and showy.

Gloire de Lorraine—No plant of recent introduc-
tion has created a greater furore among florists. A
magnificent sort for winter flowering. Of medium
size and very symmetrical habit. Literally covered
from October to April with large rose-colored flowers.
The queen of Begonias.

Tuberous Begonias are among the finest of our
summer blooming plants. They should be started in
January and February for early flowering, and at
intervals thereafter, up to March, to prolong the season
of bloom. They like a rich, spongy soil, which should
have good drainage. Keep in a light place, but not in
strong sunshine. The flowers of many varieties often
measure six inches across. In color they range from
white and delicate shades of yellow and rose to brilliant
tones of scarlet, crimson and orange. Some are single,
some double. The double sorts will be found most
satisfactory, so far as the individual flower is con-
cerned, but the single ones are quite their equal in
decorative ability. This class of Begonia cannot be

PIG 23—SINGLE AND DOUBLE TUBEROUS BEGONIAS

114 HOME FLORICULTURE

too highly recommenced, especially for the summer
decoration of the greenhouse. A frilled or fringed sort
of recent introduction is offered as a great improve-
ment on the original type. Sprays of single and
double Tuberous Begonias are shown in Fig 23.

For a list of flowering Begonias having fine
foliage, see chapter on Decorative Plants.

The Rose

Every lover of flowers would like to grow Roses.
But, as a general thing, few amateurs succeed with
them. One reason why they fail is—they select varie-
ties unsuited to house culture. Another is—they do
not give them proper treatment. The Rose likes a
rather heavy soil—something that will be close and
firm about its roots—and such a soil most persons do
not furnish for their plants, thinking they will not
do well in it. But use a loam containing some clay
for your Roses, make it rich with bone meal, and you
will find that they do much better than in a light, open
soil. Have their pots drained well, and do not use
large ones, as this plant does not have many roots.
In potting, see that the soil is made as firm as possible
about the plants. Do not allow those intended for
winter flowering to bloom in summer. Cut them back
well, until the last of September. Look out for the
aphis and the red spider, both of which are sure to
attack them, whether in greenhouse or window garden.
Keep tobacco stalks and leaves on the soil about the
plants and shower daily. Use all the precautions here-
tofore advised in fighting these pests, for success in
their culture depends on your success in keeping insects
under control.

The best varieties for the amateur to experiment
with are:

THE ROSE 115

Agrippina, crimson, with beautiful buds, and very
fragrant.

Queen’s Scarlet, crimson.

Hermosa, pink.

Clothilde Soupert, a member of the Polyantha
branch of the family, is a good pot rose. Color,
- pearly rose; flowers very double, produced in large
clusters.

It is with Roses as with Ferns—some persons
succeed with them, while others fail. Those who have
the “knack” of Rose-growing will find many varieties
listed in the catalogs which they will do well to try.

CHAPTER XXVI
AZALEAS AND CAMELLIAS

The Azalea

‘There are few more beautiful plants than the
azaiea. A half dozen varieties will give a succession
vz oloom for two or three months. A good plant will
be literally covered with flowers. I have counted over
one hundred on a plant not more than a foot and a
half high.

It is greatly to be wondered at that we so seldom
see this plant in the collections of amateurs. I think
this is to be attributed to the fact that the impression
prevails that it is a most difficult plant to grow well.
As ordinarily grown, it is true that it generally fails
to give satisfaction, but I think this is owing solely to
wrong treatment, and that when the amateur comes
to understand the requirements of the plant, and gives
the treatment demanded, he can succeed with it under
conditions where a Rose would be a failure.

The Azalea will not do well in a soil containing
lime. If you cannot get a peat for it that is wholly
free from lime I would not advise you to try to grow
it, for, though the plants may live on from year to
year, they will not flourish, consequently they will
afford you no pleasure. If peat in which there is no
lime is not attainable at home, send to some of the
large florist firms at the East, and they can furnish you
all you want. When it comes, mix with enough fine,
sharp, gritty sand to make the mass light. In such a
soil, packed firmly about the roots of your plants, you

ph

AZALEAS AND CAMELLIAS 117

will find that they will do well, provided proper care
is given them in other ways.

The most important item, after getting proper
soil, is watering. This plant does not require a great
deal of water at its roots, but it wants just enough,
and must never be allowed to get dry, for if it does
it will often drop its buds before the flowering season
begins, the buds being formed some months before
blooming time. Its roots are very fine and grow in a
thick, thread-like mass about the bottom of the stalk,
and it frequently happens that the soil at this point
is so compacted by many roots that it is a difficult
matter for water to penetrate it. When water is
applied it runs off into the looser soil about these roots,
and the very place where moisture is most required
is the very place which gets least. In consequence,
\he roots which fill this place where little moisture
penetrates suffer, and this leads to an unhealthy condi-
tion, which results in dropping of the buds and often
of the foliage also. It is a good plan to have the soil
Jower at the center of the pot than it is at the sides, so
that the water you apply will run in toward the center,
yvather than away from it. If it does this, and you
make small holes in the central mass by running a fork
or something similar into it occasionally, the roots
will be likely to get all the moisture they need.

But while it is of prime importance that the soil
should be given all the water it requires, it is equally
important that it should not be given too much. Too
much water brings on decay of the fine and delicate
roots. This must be guarded against by making sure
that the soil in the pot is well drained.

The roots of the Azalea, being small and very fine,
are produced in such compact masses that large pots
are not required.

118 HOME FLORICULTURE

When the plants show signs of blooming, by
enlargement of the buds at the ends of the branches,
give a weekly watering with liquid manure, using it
rather weak. It should never be darker than very weak
tea. Cow manure is the best fertilizer of anything
I have ever tried on this plant.

When in bloom, the plants should never be
allowed to stand in the sunshine, as the flowers soon
wither there, but if kept in shade they will last for
several days.

After blooming is over, the annual period of
growth begins. I continue the application of weak
manure water all through the season of growth. The
plants should be given plenty of light at this time,
and all the fresh air possible, and they should not be
kept in a very warm room. If they are the growth will
be forced and weak. In fact, the best plants are
always grown, and the finest flowers obtained, in
houses where the temperature is not allowed to run
high. It is a plant especially adapted to cool rooms,
but, like the Geranium, it will do well under circum-
stances and conditions not just to its liking.

After completing their growth, I put my plants
out of doors in a shaded, sheltered place where they
are watched and watered carefully all the season. In
order to attain success with them, they must never be
neglected. They must be cared for properly during
the growing season to induce a vigorous development
of branches from which next season’s flowers are to
be produced; when these branches are developed, care
must be taken that the buds which have formed shall
receive as steady a supply of nourishment during their
dormant season as possible. All the nourishment to
be given at this period is that which comes from a
regular and sufficient supply of water. Syringe daily.

When it is found necessary to repot a plant, attend

AZALEAS AND CAMELLIAS IIg

to it as soon as the flowering season is past, and
before the plant begins to make its annual growth. In
shifting, a pot one or two sizes larger than the old one
will be large enough.

Indica alba is one of the finest white varieties.
Good plants of this variety will be covered with large
flowers of the purest white imaginable. Flag of Truce

FIG 24—A WELL-GROWN AZALEA

is a semi-double sort, with large flowers of pure white.
It is quite a late bloomer. Jnveryana is white striped
with bright rose. Perfection is pale rose, very delicate
and beautiful. Criterion is salmon, shading into clear
white, with crimson spots on the upper petals. Amana
is a rather small flower of rosy purple, early and very
profuse. There are so many very fine varieties that

120 HOME FLORICULTURE

it is an extremely difficult matter to select the best.
If you want to order, and do not know what to select
from the catalogs, tell the dealer to whom the order
is sent as nearly as possible what you want, and let
him make the selection for you. [ am quite sure you
will be as well suited as you would be if you were
to make the selection yourself, from the descriptions
given.

Plants of three and four years of age, as sent
out by the dealers, are almost always trained to a
low tree form. They will be from a foot to a foot
and a half in hight, with a round, dense head of many
small branches, as seen in Fig 24. The annual growth
is not extensive, so that it takes a long time for a
plant to become very large.

The Camellia

This once popular plant has fallen into disfavor
because of its habit of dropping its buds before they
are developed. The plant, however, is seldom as much
to blame as its owner is. It forms its buds in summer
months before blooming, when it makes its annual
growth. After this period is when the danger comes
in. If it is allowed to get dry at its roots its buds will
fall, and if its soil is kept too wet, the same thing will
happen. If the plant is given a cool, airy, shady
place in summer, and care is taken to keep the soil
evenly moist, all the time—and this can be done by
watching it carefully—and too much heat is not given
it, in fall, when brought into the house, and the air
is kept moist as possible by frequent showerings, the
amateur can grow it with reasonable hope of success.
It is a superbly beautiful plant for rather cool rooms
where the temperature fluctuates but little. Its flowers
are produced in winter. They are of white, rose,
cherry, salmon and red, perfect in form as any Rose,

AZALEAS AND CAMELLIAS 121

with thick, wax-like petals having a luster like that
of satin. The annual growth takes place after the
flowering period. Give it a soil of loam and leaf mold,
and provide good drainage. The conscientious ama-
teur will do well to experiment with this magnificent
plant. In the greenhouse the glass must be shaded
over where the plant stands, or its young leaves will
be scalded by the sun.

CHAPTER XXVII

GERANIUMS AND PELARGONIUMS

if I were asked to name the one flower best
adapted to general culture I would most unhesitatingly
name the Geranium as that flower. It is of the easiest
culture. It succeeds under the most unfavorable condi-
tions. It blooms continuously and profusely, and its
colors are wonderfully rich and varied. We have no
plant able to give a grander display in the greenhouse,
during the greater part of the year, and what it can
do in the greenhouse it is perfectly willing to do in
the window garden. All it asks’is good soil, water
enough to keep its roots moist, but never wet, plenty
of sunshine and immunity from frost. It stands heat,
dry air, and frequent and sudden changes of temper-
ature as no other plant does. Anybody can grow it,
and everybody ought to grow it. The newer varieties
are magnificent. A group of these is seen in Fig 25.
Those named in the list below have been selected from
the best of recent introduction, and are the very finest
of their class, and far superior to the older sorts com-
monly grown. They include varieties having flowers
of the highest perfection of form, size and richness of
color, freedom of bloom and general excellence as to
habit. Any of them will be a revelation to those who
have been growing the old kinds.

Chateaubriand—Scarlet, shaded with maroon and
veined with black.

Dawmiere—Rosy lilac, blotched with white and
spotted with violet.

Lord Kitchener—Soft scarlet and cherry red.

Mary Pelton—Salmon. A lovely flower.

SWOAINVUID alanoa 40 adnouns—Sz od

124 HOME FLORICULTURE

Oliver—A combination of white, magenta and
scarlet.

Ponschkine—V iolet, blotched with white on upper
petals. Lower ones shading to rose.

The above varieties are single. The following six
are double varieties:

J. B. Varronne—Intense carmine, with white eye.

Richelicu—Scarlet, orange and maroon.

Mme Carnot—Snow white.

Pasteur—Rich, glowing scarlet of a charming
shade.

M Canovas—Deep, brilliant scarlet, shaded with
maroon.

Jean Remeau—White veined with violet, petals
edged with crimson.

The Ivy-leaved class should also come in for a
share of hearty recommendation. These are of slendet
or trailing habit. Their flowers are of large size ani
fine form, and rich and delicate in coloring. Excellen\
for vases or baskets, or for‘use on screens. The fo’:
lowing are new varieties of great merit:

Achievement—Soft, salmon rose.

Leopard—Pink, blotched with carmine. Re:
sembles the Pelargonium in its peculiar combination
and contrasts of color. Very fine.

Bride—Pure white.

No collection should be without some of the fra-
grant-leaved sorts, like Rose, Apple, Nutmeg and
others. These are not only beautiful plants, but their
deliciously scented leaves will be found very useful in
making up bouquets and in all cut flower work.

A list of fine foliaged Geraniums will be found in
the chapters on Decorative Foliage Plants.

GERANIUMS AND PELARGONIUMS 125

Pelargonium

The late Peter Henderson used to say that this
class of plants gave the most gorgeous flowers of
anything he had ever grown, and, were he obliged
to select one plant for spring and summer decoration,
his choice would be this. I agree with him. The
flowers, which are larger than those of the Geranium,
are also of fine form, some having crimped and ruffled
petals which give them the appearance of being double,
and they run through a list of the richest colors
imaginable, with combinations of them that are simply
dazzling. From pure white they range to carmine,
with markings of darker or lighter shades of the same
color, black, white and purple, sometimes in blotches,
but often in featherings and delicate veinings. The
darker and deeper colors are velvety in their richness.

While these plants do best in the greenhouse, they
should always find a place in the window garden.
After flowering, compel them to rest for two months,
by keeping them quite dry. At the end of the period,
cut back until you have only a stubby skeleton of a
plant. Repot, shaking off from the roots all the old
soil possible. Do not encourage much growth until
the plants are in the house. Simply give water enough
to keep them alive. They will do all the better, later
on, for this enforced resting. As soon as brought in
they will begin to grow. Give them a place near the
glass, and keep them in a cool room. As they grow,
pinch off the ends of the branches to make them bushy.
The more branches you secure the more flowers you
will have. Expose them fully to the sun. Tie the
stalks to some stout support, and force the plants to
form symmetrical specimens by persistently cutting off
all branches that threaten to outgrow others. The
aphis will be sure to attack them, but he can be kept

126 HOME FLORICULTURE

down by dipping the plants in the infusion of soap,
heretofore advised, or by fumigation with tobacco
stems and leaves. A bath is most effective, however,
as it permits no irsect ta escape if the plants are
entirely submerged.

CHAPTER XXVii1
THE CARNATION AND THE FUCHSIA

The Carnation

Everybody knows and admires this superb and
exquisitely fragrant flower, and every collection ought
to contain several varieties of it. One fine Carnation
is worth a score of ordinary blossoms. It is especially
adapted to cultivation in cool rooms, where plenty of
sunshine can be given it. The varieties now in general
cultivation are far superior, in every way, to those
of a few years ago. Their flowers are richer in color,
of much greater size, and their calyx does not burst
as that of the older varieties was almost sure to. They
are also borne on long, stiff stalks, which makes them
exceedingly useful for cut-flower work. We have no
flowers more valuable for cutting, because they last
for weeks if the water in which they are kept is fre-
quently changed. It grows well in a loamy soil. It
does not require a large pot, nor a very great deal of
water, but it should never be allowed to get dry at
the roots. It should be pinched back frequently during
the summer, to secure bushy, compact growth. The
red spider often troubles it, but it can be kept in check
by daily showering. If the aphis appears, dip the
plants in the solution of soap heretofore mentioned, at
least once a week. Of late, this plant has been con-
siderably troubled with a sort of bacterial disease, gen-
erally termed rust. This can be prevented by the
application of Copperdine.

The following twelve varieties will be found
among the best and most distinct sorts for ama-
teur use:

128 HOME FLORICULTURE

Ethel Crocker—Pink. Large flower. Delight-
fully sweet.

Mrs Thomas W. Lawson—Dark pink. Large
and of fine form.

The Marquis—Soft, rich shade of pink, with
fringed petals. Free flowering.

FIG 26—MRS GEO M. BRADT CARNATIONS

Gen Gomez—Dark crimson, shading to maroon.
Very fine fringed flower.

Gen Maceo—Scarlet. Dark and rich.

G. H. Crane—Brilliant shade of scarlet. Very
sweet. Early.

Mrs G. M. Bradt-—White striped with scarlet. A
beautifully variegated flower. (Fig 26.)

THE CARNATION AND THE FUCHSIA 129

\/ayor Pingree—Lemon yellow, marked with
rose, carmine and white. A superb variety.

Buttercup—Bright, rich yellow, streaked with
carmine.

Gold Nugget—Yellow, feathered with red.

Daybreak—A very delicate flesh-pink. A great
favorite. (Fig 27.)

Flora Hill—Pure white.

FIG 27—DAYBREAK CARNATIONS

130 HOME FLORICULTURE

The Fuchsia

This well-known old flower is a favorite every-
where, as it deserves to be. But it is seldom seen
in perfection, because nearly everyone who grows it
seems to be under the impression that it is—or ought to
be—a winter bloomer, therefore, it is kept growing
the year round. In consequence of this, the plant is
never as strong as it would be if treated as a summer
bloomer, which it is, with one or two exceptions. It
should be allowed to rest for at least three months of
each year. If this is done, it will bloom for a period
of nearly six months, with the greatest profusion. But
if this is not done, the vitality of the plant is so lowered
that it is likely to make a weak growth, and its
flowers will be fewer in number and greatly inferior.

The proper treatment of the plant is to put it in
the cellar in November. There keep it as nearly dor-
mant as possible, by withholding water until there is
but little moisture in the soil. It does not matter if
it sheds its foliage. In February or March bring
it up, and go over it, cutting it back at least one-half
—two-thirds might be better—and it will soon start
into growth under the influence of water, light and
warmth. Give it a soil of leaf mold, if possible, with
considerable sharp sand in it, and have the pots well
drained. Old plants will require considerable root
room, as they do not do well when pot-bound. Repot
as soon as growth begins, each spring.

Tt will grow in almost any soil, but it does its
best in a light, open, spongy one. Turfy matter will
be found a good substitute for leaf mold if the latter is
not obtainable. Tt must be watered well. Tf allowed
to get really dry at its roots, it will often drop its
foliage and its buds. One drying out will give it a
check from which it will not fully recover during the
entire season. Therefore, watch it well in this respect.

THE CARNATION AND THE FUCHSIA 131

It also likes a great deal of water on its foliage. It
should be given a daily showering, all over. This
keeps down the red spider, which is its worst enemy.
If badly infested, it often loses its foliage. It likes the
morning sun, but it will do well in partial shade. Never
expose it to the hot sunshine of midday or afternoon.
Tf treated as advised, it will bloom with wonderful
freedom all summer, and continue to give flowers until
well along into the fall.

I would advise the following varieties for general
culture:

Arabella—White tube and sepals, corolla rose.
Early. Single.

Black Prince—Carmine magenta, with violet
corolla, fading to rose. A strong growing upright
variety. Great bloomer. Single.

Gloire des Marches—Crimson sepals, white
corolla. Double.

Minnesota—Sepals waxy white, corolla rose.
Exquisite. Single.

Phenomenal—Crimson tube and sepals. Corolla
a rich violet. Very double. Large flower. Desirable
because of its strong growth and free-flowering habit

Speciosa—Old variety, but still the best of all
for winter flowering. Flesh-colored sepals, carmine
corolla. Strong grower and profuse bloomer. Should
be allowed to droop. Keen it rather dry durine sum-
mer, and cut it back well in August, if wanted for
winter use.

CHAPTER XXIX

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM

In order to grow this favorite flower well, it is
necessary to understand its nature and its needs.
Plants grown by those who give it the same care they
give all their plants may be satisfactory, in a degree,
but their specimens wil! be greatly inferior to those
grown by persons who give them proper treatment.

In the first place, the fact must be understood that
the Chrysanthemum is a plant requiring a great deal
of nutriment. It is a plant fond of rich food. There-
fore a soil of ordinary fertility is not the kind of soil
to grow it in if one desires that it should do its
best. See that the soil you give it is very rich. Old,
well-rotted barnyard manure is excellent as a basis of
the compost. If this is not obtainable, use bone meal
liberally. A tablespoonful to the amount of soil an
eight or ten-inch pot will hold is not too much. Mix
it in well with the loam which forms the body of the
soil. This will do for the first months of the plant’s
growth. Later, as it begins to get ready for flowering,
it will be well to give a liquid fertilizer, and to give
it often. This produces great quantities of fine flowers.

In the second place it must be borne in mind
that the Chrysanthemum is a plant that likes a great
deal of water while making active growth. Often,
during the hot weather of summer, two applications
will be required daily—one at evening, and the other
in the morning. It should never be allowed to get
dry at the roots. If it does, it will have received a
check which will interfere seriously with its develop-
ment—one from which it will not be likely to recover

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 133

during the entire season—therefore see to it that its
roots are always moist.

It also likes a good deal of root room. If kept in
small pots it will become root-bound before the middle
of summer, and this will give the plant a check quite
as serious in its effects as that arising from an insuf-
ficient supply of water. It is advisable to start young
plants off in three-inch pots, but as soon as they have
filled this size with roots they should be shifted to
six-inch ones, and about the middle of July another
shift should be given—this time to nine or ten-inch
pots. In these the plants can be allowed to bloom.

I would advise keeping the plants in pots through-
out the season, instead of planting them out in the
open ground, and leaving them there until the first
of September, as many growers of this plant advise.
Y do not approve of this plan, because it obliges us to
lift them at the very time buds are forming. And
no matter how carefully we do this work, the roots
of the plants will be more or less disturbed, and
any disturbances of the roots, at this time, when the
buds are forming, must seriously interfere with the
strong and satisfactory development of the flowers. It
is true that plants in the open ground make a much
stronger growth than those kept in pots, but by lifting
and potting them in the fall we are obliged to sacrifice
a good deal of this, therefore we gain nothing by put-
ting them in the garden beds. Of course plants so
treated will require much less attention, during the
summer, than those kept in pots, but what is gained
in this respect is more than offset by the labor required
at repotting time and the check which the plants are
sure to receive at a critical period of their life. Plants
kept in pots escape these ordeals, and are under better
control at all times.

134 HOME FLORICULTURE

Let them have all the air possible during the
growing season. Shower them all over daily. If the
aphis attacks them, apply an infusion of fir-tree oil
soap. See that it reaches every part of the plant.
Water used daily, in liberal quantities, all over the
plants, will prevent the red spider from doing harm.
If the plants are not showered frequently, this pest
will be pretty sure to harm them. If you notice that
the leaves are turning yellow, you may be sure that
the red spider is at work on them, or that the roots
are too dry. Examine the plant carefully, and give
the treatment necessary to remedy the existing evil.

This is one of the most tractable of all plants
It can be trained as a tree, or allowed to grow in
bush form. If the tree shape is preferred, keep all
branches from forming while the plant is young, and
encourage the production of a straight stalk to the
hight of two, three or four feet—or whatever hight
you want the head of the tree to be. Then nip off the
top. Branches will start below, but remove all except
those near the top of the stalk. When these have
grown to be four or five inches long, nip their ends
off. This will force them to send out branches. This
second nipping will give a good foundation for the
head of the tree, as a general thing. If it does not,
keep on with the nipping process until you have as
many branches as you think are needed. After this,
let the branches lengthen at will. Plants trained in
this manner should have a support for their main stalk,
as they will be top-heavy, and they are easily broken
off by a sudden movement of their pot, or a strong
wind. To grow the plant in shrubby form, it is only
necessary to pinch off the top of the plant when not
more than five or six inches high. Branches will start
below, and these should all be allowed to grow.

FIG 28—SINGLE STEM

CHRYSANTHEMUM IORA

130 HOME FLORICULTURE

The enormous flowers seen at the fall shows are
secured by sacrificing all the buds on each shoot except
the ones which seem to possess the most vigor. (Fig
28.) The flowers thus produced are interesting as

FIG 20—CHRYSANTHEMUM MR&S_ PERRIN

curiosities, but they are not as beautiful as the smaller
ones, of which we may have great quantities on each
branch if we allow all the buds to grow which form
there. (Fig 29.) A plant covered with these smaller,

-

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 137

but equally perfect flowers, is a thing of beauty which
will afford vastly mere pleasure than any plant can
which bears but a blossom or two, of such enormous
size that they are simply floral monstrosities.

It is a good plan to leave the plants out of doors
as long as it is safe to do so. A slight frost will
not injure them. When you bring them into the
house, put them in a room without fire. Fire heat
forces the plants to a rapid and weak development
which is highly disastrous to their welfare. In a cool
room you will have finer flowers and they will last
much longer than when exposed to too much warmth.

After the flowering season is over cut away the
entire top of the plant, and put the pot containing
the roots in the cellar, if you desire to carry them
over. Give no water during the entire winter, unless
the soil seems to be getting dust-dry. In March the
pots can be brought up, the soil moistened, light and
warmth given, and in a short time young shoots will
appear all over the surface of the soil. When these
have made a growth of three or four inches, they
can be cut away from the old plant, with a small
piece of root attached, and put into small pots. It
will generally be found more satisfactory, however, to
get young plants each season from the florist, as these
will be likely to give the finest flowers. A list of
desirable kinds is not attempted because there are so
many fine sorts that it is almost impossible to make
a selection without leaving out some kinds quite as
desirable as those chosen. It is a good plan to go
over the lists and select those of the colors you
prefer. If this is done, you will be pretty sure to
be satisfied with your own selection.

CHAPTER XXX

PALMS

Popular interest in plants having ornamental
foliage has rapidly increased during the past few years.
Some of them will be found in almost all collections,
and each season sees an addition made to the list, in
most homes, because the owners have discovered that
this class of plants generally give better satisfaction
than flowering plants under the conditions which pre-
vail in most dwellings. They adapt themselves much
more readily to sudden changes «f temperature, light,
and other atmospheric conditions which exist in the
ordinary living room. A fine specimen of any plant
with pleasing foliage is always attractive, while ordi-
nary flowering plants are not particularly so unless
in bloom. It has taken some time to educate people
to an appreciation of the great merits of decorative
plants, but of late they have become fully alive to
the fact that they are really the most satisfactory of
all plants, if a proper selection is made.

No well-appointed room is complete without one
or more handsome foliage plants. With proper care
in selection, varieties can be found which are fully
able to adapt themselves to any condition. The Palm
is probably the most popular decorative plant at pres-
ent. It is a very easy plant to manage, if its wants
are understood, but the frequency of requests for
information regarding its cultivation shows that there
is need of more general knowledge concerning the
plant and its requirements, and this need I shall try
to meet in what I have to say in the following
paragraphs.

PALMS 139

To grow the Palm well it is essential that we
give it good soil, good drainage, and proper care.
It seems to do best in a soil of loam containing some
clay. Its roots are strong and fleshy, and like to
feel themselves firmly supported by the soil in which
they grow. These roots have a tendency to run down,
instead of spreading out, and the best pot for a Palm
is a deep one rather than a broad one. It is a difficult
matter, however, to find such pots, but good substitutes
for them are furnished by the tubs and boxes sold by
leading florists.

Good drainage is of the greatest importance. If it
is not provided, surplus water will be retained about
the roots of the plant, and this will lead to souring of
the soil. This condition always brings on an unhealthy
action of the roots, the result of which is soon seen
in the yellowing of the tips of the leaves. By and by
the entire leaf turns brown, and has to be cut away.
When four or five leaves have been lost in this way,
the average plant is past its usefulness for decorative
purposes, for most varieties produce leaves so slowly
that they can never afford to lose many of them. I
find that more trouble in growing this plant satisfac-
torily originates from poor drainage than from all
other causes. Therefore, the amateur should be sure
to see that each pot has at least three inches of broken
crockery, brick or charcoal in the bottom of it, to
prevent the soil from washing down and clogging the
hole in it. A layer of sphagnum or cocoa fiber over
the drainage material, before filling in with soil, is of
ereat benefit, as it will prevent the water from carrying
down soil enough to close the cracks and crevices,
while it will in no way interfere with the passage of
surplus water.

Great care must be exercised as regards watering.
As most decorative plants are used at some distance

140 HOME FLORICULTURE

from the window, as a general thing, and are kept
there for days at a time, evaporation will be slow.
It is a mistake to give more water while the soil
remains moist. Wait until the surface of it appears
dry, and then give enough to thoroughly saturate all
in the pot.

Some persons seem to have the idea that plants
used for the decoration of hall or parlor can be placeil
in a corner, or some other place some distance from
good light, and left there indefinitely, without injury.
This is not the case. These plants, to remain in health,
must be given a chance at the window, and kept in
the best possible light while not doing duty for decora-
tive purposes. By this it is not meant that they
should have full sunshine. They do better without it.
But they should be placed near the window whenever
they are not needed elsewhere in the room. It is a
good plan to have at least half a dozen plants. They
can then be used alternately, some doing decorative
duty, while others are recuperating from its effect.

Palms are often injured by insects. It is there-
fore necessary that they be watched carefully, and that
precautions should be taken against the advance anc
entrenchment of the enemy. An ounce of prevention
is worth a pound of cure in this case. Aim to keep
the pests from getting a foothold. This can be done
by the use of fir-tree oil or lemon oil, and sometimes
by strong soapsuds, though the efficacy of the latter
consists more in the scrubbing process which generally
accompanies it than in its ability to keep in check the
enemies of this class of plants. It is a good plan to
procure a long-handled, stiff bristle brush, with which
to apply whatever preparation is used, as this will
enable you to get at parts of the plants which could
not otherwise be easily reached. Work the brush
down between the leaves and stalk, and scrub the base

PALMS 141

of the plant well, using force enough to dislodge and
remove any of the insects which may have congregated
there. This is where the mealy bug will establish
himself if not interfered with. It is quite necessary
that he should be given to understand that his presence
will not be tolerated, if you expect to keep your plants
in good condition. Because he looks so much like a
bit of cotton, he often escapes detection. As soon as
you see small white specks here and there, generally
between the leaf and main stalk, be sure that the
mealy bug has come, and be prompt in the application
of your remedies.

Scale is another deadly enemy of the Palm, as
well as of most firm, smooth-leaved plants. Those
who have never seen this troublesome creature will
not be likely to suspect its presence for some time,
because it is so small, unobtrusive and quiet in its
operations. But very soon the appearance of a plant
infested with it will go to show that there is trouble
of some sort, somewhere, and a close investigation will
lead to the discovery of flat brown particles, resembling
a fish scale more than anything else, adhering to the
leaves, and the base of the plant. As a general thing,
they will be found most plentifully on the underside
of the leaves. Scrape one of these off with a stick and
you will find that beneath the scale or shell there is
a live creature which sucks the life from the plant.
The best remedy for this dangerous enemy of the Palm
is the lemon or fir-tree oil application advised for fight-
ing the mealy bug. Apply it with the bristle brush,
and do it with sufficient force to remove the creature.
Do not rest easy as long as a scale is to be seen. If
plants are neglected until they become covered with
insects it will be almost an impossibility to get them
clean, and their vitality will soon be lowered beyond
the safety point by their ravages. and a state of chronic

142 HOME FLORICULTURE

ill health sets in which soon makes the plants worthless
for decorative purposes. On this account I lay par-
ticular stress on the importance of always keeping
these plants clean. Act on the offensive. Take it for
granted that insects will come if not headed off, and
give them to understand by the thoroughness of your
anticipatory maneuvers that they will not be tolerated.

FIG 30—LATANIA BORBONICA

t is much easier to keep them away from your plants
than it is to get rid of them after they have taken
possession of them. “A stitch in time saves nine” is
an old saying which applies pertinently in this case.

Sometimes yellowing foliage shows that something
is the matter, but no insects can be found. This being
the case, it is safe to suspect that a fungous disease

PALMS 143

is at work on the plant. Apply Copperdine as a
remedy. It is a good plan to use this preparation about
once a month, as a preventive of disease. No harm
will be done to the plant if there is no real need for

FIG 3I—ARECA LUTESCENS

it. If there is a need, its application will be found
extremely beneficial.

Herewith I give a list of the Palms best adapted
te general cultivation, with a brief description of the
leading kinds:

Latania Borbonica (The “Fan Palm”) (Fig 30)
— This is a very attractive plant when well grown. Its

144 HOME FLORICULTURE

large leaves have a spread of several feet, as the plant
attains age Of spreading rather than upright habit.
It will be found most effective if given a pedestal to
stand on. A fine specimen is one of the most orna-
mental features of the most elegant hall. It imparts
an air of refinement and beauty to the place which the
most costly and elaborate furniture cannot give. Of

Pe

FIG 32—COCOS WEDDELLIANA

extremely easy culture. A rapid grower. Ornamental
when small, and increasing in beauty with age.

Areca lutescens (Fig 31)—A very beautiful
Palm, with gracefully arching foliage, of a rich green.
This species is a general favorite. Its habit of growth
is all that could be desired. Whoever owns a fine spec-
imen has something he may well be proud of. In buy-

PALMS 145

ing it, it is well to procure what is called “made-up”
plants instead of single ones. “Made-up” plants are
formed by planting two, three or four plants of differ-
ent sizes together, thus giving a bushy, compact effect
which a single plant never has. The effect is that of
a plant having several stalks from the same base. The

FIG 33—KENTIA BELMOREANA

price asked is not much more than that for single
specimens, but the value of the plant, from a decorative
standpoint, is greatly increased.

146 HOME FLORICULTURE

Cocos Weddelliana (Fig 32)—This is without
doubt the most elegant small Palm in cultivation. Its
foliage is delicate, and extremely graceful. The habit
of the plant is charming. This sort is excellent for
table decoration, either in pots by itself, or as the
centerpiece of a fern dish. It is a very valuable plant

FIG 34—PHOENIX RECLINATA

for this purpose, as it is of slow growth, and is a
long time in outgrowing its usefulness. One of the
standard sorts.

Cocos insignis—This species is similar to C.
Weddelliana, except that its foliage is heavier, and of
stronger growth. “Made-up” specimens are charming
ornaments for a small table by the window.

PALMS 147

Calamus ciliaris—A fine sort for table decora-
tion, or for jardiniere use. Of reed-like growth, with
pinnate leaves.

Kentias—These are among the most useful mem-
bers of the great Palm family. They will endure more
rough usage without resentment than any other kind,
with the possible exception of L. Borbonica. Kentia
Belmoreana (Fig 33), often known as “the Curly
Palm,” is of somewhat spreading habit, while K.
Forsteriana is of stronger growth, with heavier foliage.
These sorts stand dry air and dust, and frequent
changes of temperature, and are to be recommended
as the best kinds for the amateur to begin with. Well
cared for, they are good for years. “Made-up” plants
are advised, because of the greater mass of foliage from
the pot up which is secured by this method of planting.

Phoenix—The Phoenix Palms are extremely
hardy, standing sun and wind better than any other
species. On this account they are well adapted for use
in vases for the lawn, in summer, and other outdoor
work where most other Palms would be worthless.
Large specimens are fine for use on the veranda. P.
Canariensis is especially valuable for this purpose. P.
reclinata (Fig 34) is of spreading habit. It grows
rapidly, and remains in good condition for years. It
can be wintered in the cellar, as can all the Phoenix
Palms, if it is not convenient to keep them in the living
room. P. rupicola is the most attractive species, with
spreading foliage, gracefully arching away from the
center of the plant. Pinnae long and narrow. A
charming kind for the amateur.

Ptychosperma Alexandrae—A Palm of graceful
habit, with broad, pinnated foliage, light green above,
whitish-green below. A very rapid grower. A most
desirable sort.

148 HOME FLORICULTURE

Rhapis flabelliformis and R. humilis—Very pleas-
ing Palms, with slender, graceful stems, and leaves
cleft in five to seven divisions. They sucker freely
and therefore form bushy and compact specimens with-
out having to be made up. Fig 34% shows a good
specimen of R. /iwmilis or Rattan Palm.

TG 34 I-2—RHAPIS HUMILIS

CHAPTER XXXI

FERNS

Ferns are among the most beautiful of all plants.
They would be much more generally cultivated than
they are at present, were it not for the fact that most
persons have the impression that they cannot be grown
successfully in the’ window garden. This impression
is not a correct one, for many varieties of them are
grown there and well grown. Failure, as a general
thing, comes from neglect to give the plants proper
attention rather than from their inability, or their
unwillingness to adapt themselves to existing condi-
tions. While it is advisable to select the stronger
varieties for ordinary cultivation, I would advise a trial
of other kinds, even the finer Adiantums, because I
know that these do well with some persons, under
conditions not generally considered favorable to them.
This, no doubt, because these persons give them careful
attention, and do all they can to make the conditions
under which they are grown as favorable as possible
to their requirements. They are unlike other plants
in their habits and needs, and must be given a treat-
ment suited to their peculiarities. This done, they will
be found much more tractable than many other plants
seen in the window garden.

For use in jardinieres, and for table decoration,
nothing can be finer, and a few plants should always
be grown to furnish greenery to accompany flowers
from the window garden. The study and cultivation
of these superbly beautiful plants will be found
extremely fascinating—so much so that many persons
develop into “Fern cranks’—and those who achieve

I50 HOME FLORICULTURE

success in their culture through intelligent treatment
of them will be sure to become the owners of fine
collections made up of the leading kinds, for success
with some of the hardier sorts, at first, will lead to
success with the more delicate kinds later on. The
enthusiastic amateur will never be satisfied with a few
varieties when he finds that he can grow an extensive
list of them.

Ferns like a rather moist atmosphere. Of course
one like that surrounding them in their native habitat
cannot be given in the living room, but the prevailing
dryness of the air in such rooms can be modified to
a considerable extent by keeping water constantly
evaporating on stoves, registers or radiators. Show-
ering about the plants will also be found of great
benefit in tempering the atmosphere. It is a very good
plan to keep them on tables covered with an inch or
two of sand, or moss, which can be kept quite wet,
thus securing a steady evaporation among the plants.
Some sorts are not averse to a shower bath, but others
object to it. If showering is to be done, let it be in
the form of a fine spray—a mist, rather—and do not
carry it to such an extent that the delicate foliage is
heavily saturated. Keep the plants out of the sun.
Drain their pots perfectly. This is of great importance.
If drainage is not good, there is great danger of
souring the soil, and this brings on weakness and
disease of the roots. If drainage is what it ought to
be, a great deal of water can be used without running
any risk of injury, because all that the soil does not
need passes off readily. Never allow the roots to get
dry. This is another very important item. Because
light, spongy soil is generally used to grow them in,
evaporation will take place rapidly, in a warm room,
careful and constant watch must be kept of them and
enough water be giyen to keep the soil always moist.

a

‘

FERNS 151

The best soil for Ferns is one of leaf mold and
sand. But any light, spongy soil made porous and
friable with sharp sand will do very well for most
varieties. It should have sponginess enough to prevent
it from becoming hard and compact. Turfy matter,
such as has been spoken of in the chapter on soils, will
supply this quality if leaf mold is not obtainable.

The species and varieties described below will be
found especially desirable for the window garden.

Alsophila Australis—One of the noblest tree
Ferns, beautiful in all stages of growth. The fronds
spread out from an upright trank, curving gracefully,
and showing delicate contrasts of dark and glaucous
green. Care must be taken to supply water liberally.

Cibotium Schiedei—Another fine tree Fern, with
broad, finely cut foliage. One of the most graceful of
large-growing Ferns, particularly well adapted to
house culture. It is an old species, but very rare,
because of the slowness and difficulty with which it
is propagated. The person who is willing to give
proper care to his or her plants will find this Fern a
most desirable one to invest in.

Cyrtomium falcatum—The Holly Fern. A charm-
ing sort for house culture. Foliage rich dark green,
with a shining luster, as if varnished. Excellent for
table decoration, while young. A very distinct Fern.

Davallia stricta—One of the old “standbys.”
This belongs to the class of Hare-foot Ferns, so called,
because they spread by creeping rhizomes which are
supposed to have some resemblance to a hare’s foot.
The foliage is lace-like in its beauty and the habit of
growth very graceful. One of the best for general
cultivation.

Nephrolepsis cordata compacta—A very desir-
able variety of the Sword Fern genus, because of ‘its
strong growing compact habit, Will succeed perfectly

152 HOME FLORICULTURE

in the living room. A fine plant for general decorative
purposes.

Nephrolepsis Davalliodes furcans—A_ beautiful
variety of the Sword Fern, with crested fronds.
Excellent for house culture.

Nephrolepsis exaltata Bostoniensis—The wonder-
fully popular “Boston Fern” (Fig 35). One of the
very finest plants that can be chosen for culture in the

FIG 35—-THE BOSTON FERN

window garden. Good specimens will have scores of
fronds four feet in length, of gracefully spreading and
drooping habit. A well-grown plant is a_ veritable
fountain of foliage. This variety should be included
in every collection. Charming for use on pedestals or
bratkets, and equally useful in large hanging pots,
Anvore can crow it,

FERNS 153

Nephrolepsis Wittboldui—A variety of very recent
introduction, and one that will become extremely popu-
lar as soon as its merits are more generally known. It
is of more upright habit than the “Boston Fern,” from
which it is a sport. Its fronds are wider than those
of that variety. The edges of each leaflet are crimped
or waved in such a manner as to make it entirely
distinct from any other member of its family. The
undulations of the leaf edges give it a most charming
appearance, and those who see it will be sure to want
to add it to their collection. Because of its upright
habit, it has more dignity than the Boston Fern. Its
fronds last well after cutting, and are therefore very
valuable for general decorative work. A variety that
cannot be too highly commended.

Pteris serrulata cristata—A variety of rather
dwarf habit. Fine for cutting.

Pteris tremula—One of the old favorites. Should
be in all collections.

Pteris tremula Smithiana—A variety with large,
dark green fronds, the ends of the pinnae branching
in such a manner as to give them the appearance of
being tasseled. One of the most desirable large-
growing kinds.

Sitolobium cicutarium—An excellent sort. Very
easy to grow. Foliage large and striking.

Adiantwm cuneatum—The popular Maiden Hair
Fern. Always and deservedly a favorite. Easy to
grow if kept moist at the roots. Beautiful for room
decoration, for the greenhouse and for cutting. Every
collection should contain at least one plant of it.

Adiantum rhodophyllum—A variety bearing a
close resemblance to the Farleyense Fern, which many
consider the finest of all Ferns, but much better
adapted to general culture. Foliage rich and heavy,
of clear, bright green. A magnificent sort.

154 HOME FLORICULTURE

Adiantum —formoswm—Strong, tall grower.
Makes fine specimen plants.

Adiantum tenerum—A most desirable variety for
growing into specimen plants. Foliage delicate
and fine.

Adiantum gracillimum—tThe daintiest of all Ferns.
Foliage so fine as to give the plant the appearance
of being covered with a green mist, at a little distance.
Exquisite. Though extremely delicate in general
appearance it has as strong a constitution as any of
the Adiantums.

Aspidium tenuissimmm—A charming little Fern
for growing in fern dishes, and for table decoration.

The list of desirable Ferns might be extended for
pages. I have made special mention of the kinds
described above, because the amateur may desire some
assistance in making a selection of those best adapted
to the wants of the beginner in Fern culture. Success
with the above will enable him or her to attempt the
culture of other sorts with reasonable certainty of
success. I would most urgently advise every lover
of the beautiful in decorative plants to invest in at
least a few Ferns, because I know that no other plant
can give better satisfaction.

CHAPTER XXXII

MISCELLANEOUS DECORATIVE PLANTS

Araucarias

The Araucaria (Norfolk Island Pine) is fast
becoming a favorite with all who grow it. It is so
unlike all other plants in general cultivation that it
forms a most desirable and important addition to all
collections. It does best in a cool room. In the
ordinary living room it is likely to become infested
with red spider and thrip. These, if not promptly
checked, so affect the plant that it loses its lower tiers
of foliage, thus greatly marring the beauty and sym-
metry of the plant. The foliage is thick and heavy,
like that of most evergreens, and the branches are so
densely covered with it that they form excellent quar-
ters for the thrip and spider to hide in. Quite often
their presence is not suspected until the foliage turns
yellow and begins to drop. As soon as either of these
pests is discovered, prepare an infusion of soap, as
directed in the chapter on insecticides, and dip the
plant in it. Shake it about well, while in the bath, to
dislodge as many of the insects as possible. It is
a good plan to give a semi-monthly or a weekly bath
of this kind when no insects are to be found on the
plant, as, by so doing, it is often possible to head
them off and prevent them from getting established.

If this treatment does not prove entirely satis-
factory, use lemon oil, or fir-tree oil, prepared and
applied acording to directions on the can containing it.

For cool, but frost-proof rooms, this plant cannot
be too highly recommended. Fine specimens are
stately ornaments for the greenhouse, and will be

I 56 HOME FLORICULTURE

found admirable for hall use. A. excelsa (Fig 36) 1s
the leading species, because it was first introduced. It
is therefore better known than A. glauca or A. robusta
compacta. A. glauca has foliage of a rich blue-green.
A. robusta compacta is a strong grower of very com-
pact growth, and most symmetrical habit. Its heavily

TTIVNTE LETT .
FIG 360—ARAUCARIA EXCELSA

foliaged branches appear to be covered with moss, so
thickly set are they with the rich, deep green foliage.
The two last named kinds have been very high-priced,
until within a few years, because of their scarcity, but
they are now grown in large quantities, and very fine
specimens can be bought for a reasonable sum.

MISCELLANEOUS DECORATIVE PLANTS 157

Aralias

Aralia Sieboldi is an excellent house plant, with
large, thick, shining foliage. A popular rival of the
Ficus or Rubber Plant. Very easy to grow into fine,
stately specimen plants, and useful in hall or parlor
decoration. Used in immense quantities in Europe
for decorative purposes, but little known here as yet
This plant will, I predict, be extremely popular as
soon as the public becomes familiar with its many
merits. A. Sieboldi variegata is a variety of the above
having foliage richly variegated with creamy white.
Beautiful.

The Ardisia

Ardisia crenulata—A plant of medium size, with
rich, dark, shining evergreen foliage, bearing clusters
of bright red berries. Excellent for table decoration,
where the fruit is quite as effective as flowers. Plants
can be summered by plunging the pot to its rim in a
shaded place.

The Aspidistra

Aspidistra lurida—One of the toughest of all
plants. Will grow any and everywhere, under the
most unfavorable conditions. Can stand anything but
absolute dryness at its roots and freezing temperature.
Foliage long and broad, of thick, leathery texture,
each leaf being thrown up from the root, as there are
no branches. Adapted to cool, poorly-lighted rooms.
Seldom attacked by any insect. Used in enormous
quantities on the Continent, because of its hardiness,
and its ability to adapt itself to places where no
other plant would grow. Cannot be too highly recom-
mended. Because it will flourish under neglect is no
reason why it should be neglected. If it is well cared

158 HOME FLORICULTURE

for it will show its gratitude by richness and vigor of
foliage, and prove its right to a place in the list of our
best decorative plants.

A. lurida variegata (Fig 37)—A beautiful form
of the above, with foliage striped with yellow and

Sean SDS Cg Oe

FIG 37—ASPIDISTRA LURIDA VARIEGATA

white. Some leaves will be half green, others nearly
all light colored, while many will be marked with
narrow stripes of yellow or white in a most picturesque
fashion. Quite as desirable as the type.

MISCELLANEOUS DECORATIVE FLANTS 159

Anthericum

This is an excellent plant for vases or window
boxes. Of easy culture. Foliage resembles the old-
fashioned “Striped Grass,’ often seen in old gardens.
There are two varieties, 4. variegata having green
leaves edged with white, while A. variegata picturatum
has a white center and green edge. Fine for hang-
ing pots.

Asparagus

Asparagus Sprengeri (Fig 38)—One of our very
best drooping or trailing plants. Easy to grow and
always beautiful because of the profusion of its long
branches, thickly set with dark green foliage, giving
the plant an airy, feathery appearance which has led
to its popular name of “Emerald Feather.” Few
plants last as this does, when cut. Branches can be
kept fresh for weeks. Not only beautiful in itself,
but very useful for combining with other plants.
Especially valuable for room decoration, on mantels,
brackets and other elevated positions where its droop-
ing habit can be displayed to good advantage. Excel-
lent for hanging baskets. Does well in any good soil.
Likes a shady place, and considerable water, and will
be grateful for a daily showering. One of the most
valuable plants of recent introduction. It cannot be
recommended too highly.

A, plumosus nanus—A variety with dainty, deli-
cate foliage which lasts for a long time when cut.
Rapidly taking the place of Smilax in decorations. A
charming plant. Likes a rather sandy soil.

A. plumosus tenwissimus—A variety with
extremely fine, feathery foliage. Of climbing habit.
Has all the lasting qualities of the other varieties
described. Exquisite for use with fine cut flowers.

FIG 38—ASPARAGUS SPRENGERI

MISCELLANEOUS DECORATIVE PLANTS 161

The Sago Palm

Cycas revoluta—The Sago Palm. A stately plant
that always challenges admiration because of its noble
habit and peculiar foliage, which is of thick, heavy
texture, therefore able to resist dust and other draw-
backs which most decorative plants are subjected to.
Well adapted to use in a cool, shady room. A
grand plant.

The Umbrella Plant

Cyperus alternifoliuns—The Umbrella Plant. One
of our best plants for growing in aquariums and vases
of water. Of easy culture. C. vartegatus has foliage
marked with yellowish-white.

Dracaenas

These plants are of great and varied beauty.
Many of them are well adapted to sitting room culture.
They have a peculiarly elegant and attractive habit of
growth, and will be found very useful, either as single
specimens or for combination with other plants of
decorative character. The following kinds are espe-
cially recommended :

Amabilis—Foliage green, white and rosy violet.

Bruanti—Foliage heavy. Dark green. A good
plant for the living room.

Fragrans—A fine species from Africa. Large,
luxuriant foliage. A great favorite.

Imperialis—Foliage green, marked with rose.

Indivisa—Foliage long and narrow, gracefully
curved. One of our standard plants for the center
of vases. Fine for jardinere use.

Lindeni—Foliage broad and undulated, with rich
yellow striping on a bright green ground.

162 HOME FLORICULTURE

Massangeana—A form of the above, with the
variegation confined to the center of the leaf.

Sanderiana—Smal! foliage, heavily marked with
white.

Terminalis—Foliage of various shades of red and
rose, marked with white.

Brasiliensis (Fig 39)—Exceedingly handsome
for the center of a vase or stand, forming a beau-
tiful object.

FIG 390—DRACAENA BRASILIENSIS

The Rubber Plant

Ficus elastica—The Rubber Plant (Fig 40).
Probably more popular than any other decorative plant
except the Palm. Its large, heavy, shining foliage
is very attractive, and because of its thick, leathery
texture it is able to stand the effects of dust and dry
air better than almost any other plant. Of the easiest
culture. Care should be taken to keep it free from

_—

FIG 40—FICUS ELASTICA

164 HOME FLORICULTURE

scale and fungous diseases. Should these attack it,
apply the remedies advised in the chapter on insecti-
cides. An excellent plant for use in halls and the
corner of rooms where a plant of tall and stately
appearance is desired.

F, variegata is a superb variety having broad
markings of creamy white on a dark green ground.
Unfortunately, this variety is frequently subject to a
fungous disease, but the weekly application of Cop-
perdine should keep it in health.

F. repens is a creeping, climbing species with
small foliage. Fine for baskets, or growing about
Palms or other plants to furnish a covering for
the soil.

Farfugium

Farfugiwm grande—The Leopard Plant. Foliage
of thick, firm texture, nearly circular in shape, very
dark green, heavily spotted with clear yellow. Fine
plant for jardinieres. Large specimens are very orna-
mental. Give plenty of water and keep out of the sun.

The Screw Pine

Pandanus utilis—Screw Pine (Fig 41). Fine
plant for use in vases, as a centerpiece. Foliage long,
narrow and recurved, with sharp, needle-like spines
all along the edge. The leaves are produced spirally
along the stalk, hence the popular name of the plant.
Leaves green, marked with red.

P. Veitchii—A species having foliage striped
with white. A most attractive plant. These plants
should have a warm place in winter, and must
be watered moderately at that season, as they are
easily injured by too much moisture at their roots,

MISCELLANEOUS DECORATIVE PLANTS 165

New Zealand Flax

Phormium tenax—New Zealand Flax. Long,
stiff foliage like that of the Swamp Flag. P. variega-
tum is striped with pale yellow and white. Both fine
plants for vases in summer.

FIG 4I—THE SCREW PINE

Vriesia
Vriesia splendens—A most peculiar plant, with
broad, thick foliage of light green, with brown bars
across the leaf. Flowers yellow, set in bracts of rich
scarlet, which retain their color for a long time. A
very striking plant in all ways, and one well adapted to
culture in a dry atmosphere.

166 HOME FLORICULTURE

The Silk Oak

Grevillea robusta—A very beautiful plant, with
large, spreading foliage almost as finely cut as that of
some of the Ferns. It is often attacked by red spider
and thrip, but these can be controlled by the use of
insecticides heretofore advised. The plant is of rapid
growth, and soon becomes quite a tree. Young plants
are valuable for table decoration.

Rex Begonias

Begonia rex—We have few plants more beautiful
in coloring than these. Their large, rich foliage, in
which green of all shades is blended with silver, bronze
and red and purple, makes them wonderfully attrac-
tive. In some varieties, the entire leaf seems overlaid
with metallic colors having a satiny luster indescrib-
ably charming. In others the variegation is disposed
in bands and blotches of rich colors on a ground of
green, while some sorts seem powdered with silver
dust through which tints of plum and purple show
with delicate effect. A well-grown plant is always
sure to attract and fascinate the lover of beautifully
colored foliage.

These Begonias can be grown in the living room
if care is taken to keep the soil moist only—never wet
—and they are not given large pots while young.
They have small roots, and do not require much pot
room during the first year: Do not give them sunshine
and never shower the foliage. To keep them clean,
cover with papers or a thin cloth, when sweeping and
dusting. If mealy bugs attack them, remove with a
soft brush. Cut away all buds that form, as soon
as seen, to throw all the strength of the plant into the
production of foliage. Some persons are not success-
ful with these Begonias in the window garden, while

MISCELLANEOUS DECORATIVE PLANTS 167

others consider them very satisfactory there. Prob-
ably because they have studied their habits and give
them the treatment they demand. I would advise
all lovers of beautiful plants to give them a trial before
deciding that they cannot grow them. They should
have a light, spongy, porous soil in which considerable
sharp sand has been mixed, and the very best of
drainage.

Flowering Begonias with Fine Foliage

B. argentea guttata is of sturdy, upright growth,
with foliage of rich bronze green, thickly spotted with
silver. Its flowers are a soft, pearly flesh color, borne
in drooping panicles. Very fine both as a flowering
and as a decorative foliage plant. Of the easiest
culture.

B. alba picta
white.

B. metallica—Hairy foliage, bronze green, with
coppery luster on upper surface. Veins dark red,
showing through the leaf. A strong-growing kind,
making a very attractive specimen plant.

B. manicata aurea variegata—A beautiful variety,
of spreading habit, with large, thick, waxen foliage
of a rich, shining green, irregularly blotched with
cream, clear yellow and rose. A superb plant for a
large vase. One of the best Begonias for general cul-
tivation. A fine plant for jardiniere use.

Foliage bright green, spotted with

Geraniums with Attractive Foliage

Madam Salleroi—An_ always satisfactory and
always useful variety. Habit bushy and compact.
Seldom grows to be more than eight inches or a foot
high. Always symmetrical. Never requires pruning.
Foliage borne in such quantities that the plant and pot

168 HOME FLORICULTURE

are covered with a mass of green and white. One of
our most useful plants for “filling in,” either in the
greenhouse, the window garden or in room decoration.

Happy Thought—Foliage green with a yellow
blotch in center of leaf. Showy and easy to grow.

McMahon—Foliage yellowish-green, with dark
bronze zone. Must be given strong sunshine to bring
out the coloring well. Fine for greenhouse use, if
given a place near the glass. Equally as fine for the
window garden if it can have sufficient sunshine. Of
little value in a shady location.

Flaming Star

Poinsettia—A tropical plant of great beauty. The
flowers, which are small and insignificant, are sur-
rounded by bracts of the most intense scarlet, which
last for a long time. It can be grown to the best
advantage in sandy soil. Keep rather dry during
summer. Repot in September, and keep growing well
thereafter. If given a warm place and a moist atmos-
phere, it should come into bloom in January. Shower
well to keep red spider down. Give plenty of sunshine
to bring out the gorgeous coloring of the bracts.
Immediately after flowering, let the plant dry off.
It does not matter if it sheds its foliage at this time.
A magnificent plant for the decoration of the
greenhouse.

Smilax

Smilax is a good plant for the window garden
if given the right kind of treatment. It should have
a rich, light, sandy soil. When growth sets in, give
plenty of water. Shower often to prevent the red
spider from injuring it. After it has completed its
growing period, the leaves will begin to turn yellow.

MISCELLANEOUS DECORATIVE PLANTS 169

This indicates a desire to rest. Cut off the top and
withhold water for two months. Then shake -the
roots out of the old soil, repot, give more water and
it will soon begin to grow again. As growth becomes
active, give plenty of fertilizer. A very useful plant
for cutting for decorative purposes, as it lasts well.

Abutilons with Attractive Foliage

The flowering varieties of this plant are better
known than the sorts having variegated foliage. But
there are several varieties whose foliage is quite as
fine as that of most plants described in these chapters.
Souvenir de Bonn is a strong, upright-growing kind,
having large leaves of a light green, edged with white.
Savitsi is more bushy and compact. Its foliage has a
variegation of creamy white, the two colors being
about equally divided on each leaf. Eclipse is of
drooping habit, and is fine for growing on brackets.
Its leaves are long and pointed, and have a mosaic-like
variegation of yellow on a green ground. A. Thomp-
soni is of sturdy, upright growth and has a variegation
similar to that of Eclipse, but its leaves are broad
and large.

CHAPTER XXXIII

VINES FOR HOUSE CULTURE
The Hoya

Hoya carnosa, more commonly known as Wax
Plant, is a very good plant for cultivation in the
sitting room, because, on account of the thick and
leathery texture of its leaves, it is able to withstand
the effects of dust and dry air better than most plants.
It is also very fond of warmth, and therefore it can
be trained about the upper part of a window, where
it will flourish, while almost any other plant except
the English Ivy would prove a failure there. It is a
rapid grower when once it gets a start, but it must
be given time to get well established before much in
the way of growth can be expected from it. I often
receive letters from parties who have owned plants
of the Hoya for several years, during all of which
time they have seemed to stand still. In most cases
I have satisfied myself, on inquiry, that the likings
of the plant as to soil, location and care had not been
given proper consideration, and it had not become
thoroughly established. It lived, and put forth a
few leaves, now and then, but it had no encouragement
to make vigorous growth. I have always advised a
treatment like that outlined below, and in most cases
the result has been all that was desired.

The Hoya has very dark, heavy foliage. It
often grows to be twenty or more feet in length.
Its flowers are produced at the junction of leaf and
stem, and are in drooping clusters of about the size
and shape of the Verbena. They are flesh-colored, with
a brown, star-shaped protuberance in the center. They

VINES FOR HOUSE CULTURE NY

have a very pleasing fragrance. While not showy,
they are very beautiful, and as they are freely produced
and last a long time, the plant is sure to be popular
when it is treated in such a manner as to bring about
good results. The new branches make a very rapid
growth, and often reach a length of four or five feet
without developing foliage. They look more like large,
elongated and uncurled tendrils than anything else.
After a little the leaves develop. The first sign of
flowering is a little brown stem, which seems to be
nothing more. This, as I have said, appears at the
junction of the leaf stalk and vine. By and by you
will notice that the end of the stem seems to be
dividing, and a close examination will satisfy you
that the divisions are rudimentary buds. These develop
slowly, and finally become flowers. You must not
remove these “stems” after the flowers have withered
and fallen from them, for next season new flowers
will be produced on them. Therefore in cutting off
any of them you are destroying a future crop, or
crops, of flowers.

The Hoya likes a soil made up of peat, loam and
sand in equal parts. It does not require much moist-
ure at the roots. It has but few roots, therefore does
not require a large pot. If liquid manure is given at
flowering time the size of the flowers will be increased.
The only insect I have ever known it to be troubled
by is the mealy bug. To drive this away, apply the
emulsion of kerosene, prepared as directed in a
former chapter.

The Coboea

This is an excellent vine for training about the
arch and ceiling of a bay window. It is a very rapid
grower, often making twenty feet in a season. The
most attractive variety is C. variegata, having leaves

172 s HOME FLORICUL™URE

prettily marbled with cream color. It has a large,
bell-shaped flower of a peculiar greenish-blue. It grows
well in ordinary soil, and requires only a moderate
amount of moisture. It must be given a good-sized
pot to insure proper development.

FIG 42—ARTISTICALLY ARRANGED BAY WINDOW

The Passion Flower

Of late, this class of flowers has become very
popular. Some years ago a white variety, called Con-
stance Eliott, was introduced, and attractively illus-
trated in most of the florists’ catalogs, and the
advertisement thus given this particular variety of
the Passiflora family has resulted in an increased
demand for most other varieties. They are all rapid
growers, with large and attractive foliage. I do not

VINES FOR HOUSE CULTURE 173

think many plants bloom much the first season, but if
given good care and plenty of root room they bloom
profusely the second year. They like a rich loam, with
weekly applications of manure water. They must be
given a large tub or box to grow in. If kept in too
small a pot the leaves will often turn yellow and fall
quite suddenly. Constance Eliott has large flowers
of a greenish-white. Before expanding fully they
resemble a Pond Lily bud. P. coerulea is blue. The
latest variety is Eynsford Gem, of a beautiful, bright
rosy-purple. In constancy of flowering it seems supe-
rior to any other variety. This plant, like the Coboea,
is very effective when trained about the arch of a
bay window, where it can be allowed to droop and
festoon itself after its own ideas of what is graceful
and pleasing. Such a window intertwined with
Passiflora, Coboea, Hoya and other vines is shown in
Fig 42.

The Solanum

Solanum jasminoides is one of the prettiest of all
small climbers. It has pleasing foliage, and produces
great quantities of star-shaped flowers, white, faintly
tinged with pearly lilac. It grows to be ten or twelve
feet high, branching freely. I consider it one of the
best flowering climbing plants for the house. It
requires the same treatment as the Passion Flower.
It is much more satisfactory than that plant for the
ordinary window, because it is a less rampant grower
and does not ask for a large pot.

The English Ivy

Of all vines for house culture there is none that
excels, or equals, this. It is the vine par excellence of
all vines for the sitting room. It grows vigorously
when once established, branches freely, stands dust,

174 HOME FLORICULTURE

dry, hot air, and frequent changes of temperature, can
be trained in the shade, where it flourishes better than
in the sun, and has rich and beautiful foliage, which
only requires an occasional washing to look ‘tas good
as new,” and, like good wine, the plant becomes beter
with age, if well treated. Truly an attractive list of
good qualities, and one which ought to make any
plant popular.

It requires ordinary soil. It should be well
drained. Give only enough water to keep the soil
moist. Apply liquid manure once a week, or once a
month dig a spoonful of bone meal into the soil about
the roots. Keep the foliage clean. Unless washed
occasionally the scale may take possession of it, and
when this happens you will find it a difficult matter to
get the plant clean. It is better to go on the “ounce
of prevention” plan and get a start of the scale by
frequent scrubbings of the stalks and washings of
the leaves in soapsuds.

This is the only vine I know of which can be
trained about the room, away from direct light, with-
out serious injury to its foliage. It never seems to
care for sunlight. Its leaves take on a rich color in
complete shade. An old plant, with vigorous branches,
well leaved, is a constant source of pleasure because
of its cheerful, sturdy look, and the beauty and grace
of its foliage and habit of growth. It is charming
to train about pictures, or the mirror, or around
brackets holding statuary. The aim should always be
to keep it in a condition of vigorous health, for if
disease sets in it may lose many of its leaves before
recovery is brought about, and long, naked branches
spoil its pleasing effect. It likes a good deal of water
on its foliage, and it must be kept clean if you want
its charming masses of rich, dark leaves to show well
against the background of wall or curtain. If properly

VINES FOR HOUSE CULTURE 175

treated, it will make a growth of five or eight feet
in a season, and in a few years you will have a sturdy
old plant which will seem quite like one of the family.
It can be trained on racks or trellises, but much of its
pleasing effect is lost when it is forced to confine itself
to definite and regular limits. It should be allowed to
reach out in all directions, at its own pleasure, and then
it will never be anything but graceful.

e 3] a2 F# \ 4 re 4, Ke
Rae GY SMC EMS a
& S Wetaeear cee Se

y . CID x KY yg h & O6)
F Kaewee” ooo” fa
ie y Ve y

FIG 43—GERMAN IVY AND FERN BASKET

Senecio
Senecio—better known as German Ivy, though it
is not even a distant relative of the Ivy family—is an
excellent vine for summer use, because of its great

176 HOME FLORICULTURE

rapidity of growth. Planted about the veranda or at
the window, in boxes, it will soon climb to the top of
whatever support is given it, and droop in most
graceful profusion therefrom. It grows easily from
cuttings, stuck in ordinary soil, and one small plant,
cut into two and three-inch lengths, with an “eye”
beneath the soil, and another above it, will furnish all
the plants one would care to make use of. As a window
box or basket plant (Fig 43) it is especially valuable
from its ability to climb, or its willingness to droop.
It can be made to take on a bushy growth by pinching
off the ends of the branches, and with this training
it makes an extremely valuable plant for covering
window and veranda boxes.

Madeira Vine

This is another rapid growing vine which will be
found very useful for window or veranda box culture.
Its foliage is heart-shaped, of a rich green in color, with
a lustrous surface that makes it always attractive. It
is grown from tubers. Give it a rich, light, sandy soil
and plenty of water, and it will make a wonderful
growth in a short time.

Thunbergia

This is a very pretty flowering vine which can be
used as a screen, or for baskets. Its flowers are shaped
something like those of the Gloxinia, and are blue, or
blue and white. It can be grown from seed or from
cuttings.

Asparagus Sprengeri

This is a comparatively new plant, but it has
proved its claim to extraordinary merit, and no collec-
tion can be considered complete without it. As a

VINES FOR HOUSE CULTURE 177

basket plant it is unexcelled. Its long branches are
excellent for cutting, as they last for weeks, if the
water in which they are placed is frequently changed.
For room decoration, it is second to no plant. It
will be found described at greater length in the chap-
ter on Miscellaneous Decorative Plants.

CHAPTER XXXIV

BASKET PLANTS

The Lobelia

This is a most charming plant for a basket. L.
erinus compacta has rich blue flowers, small, it is true,
but borne in such profusion that the plant seems cov-
ered with a summer cloud. L. erinus alba is similar in
habit, but pure white in color. If these two are grown
together the effect is very fine. I know of no more
delicate flowering plant for basket use than this. It
blooms during the greater part of the season if sown
in May. For winter use, sow in November. Prevent
the formation of seed as much as possible, if you
would have the greatest possible number of flowers.
Shower well daily, to keep the red spider down. Give
a shady place.

The Othonna

Othonna crassifolia is one of those cheerful look-
ing plants which always win your friendship as well as
your admiration. It has thick, round foliage, which,
from its peculiar shape, has given it the name of Pickle
Plant in some sections of the country. It is a dense
grower, completely covering the basket with its droop-
ing stems ina short time. It has bright yellow flowers,
very much like a small, single Dandelion, and quite as
cheerful in appearance. In order to secure these
flowers in profusion you must give the plant plenty of
sunshine. This furnished, there will be a score of them
out every day. Indeed the plant will seem to be
covered with little stars. It is one of the easiest of all
plants to grow. Any little piece of vine will take root,

BASKET PLANTS 179

and soon become a thrifty plant. On account of the
succulent nature of its foliage it is able to withstand
quite a drouth. But because it can stand a good deal
of neglect as regards watering, don’t test its capacities
in this direction,

The Tradescantia

The Tradescantia, or Wandering Jew, is quite a
popular basket plant. It will stand more abuse and
look cheerful and even happy under it, than any other
plant I know of. It is rather a straggling grower if
left to follow out its own inclinations. Therefore, in
order to make it satisfactory for basket use it must be
pinched back severely at first to force it to branch
freely. Pinch it in, and keep it pinched in, until there
are branches enough to furnish plenty of foliage ta
cover whatever it grows in. It must not be given a rich
soil, for that favors the production of stalks with long
joints between the leaves. In a poorer soil the joints
will be close together and the foliage quite as satisfac-
tory. T. sebrina has dark green leaves with a metallic
luster and silvery bands running down them. T. mutti-
color has foliage of a lighter green, striped with white
and pink. Break off a piece of the vine and throw it
down where it can come in contact with the soil and
it will be sure to grow.

The Saxifrage (Saxifraga sarmentosa)

This is a very pretty basket plant (Fig 44). Ili
has leaves shaped something like those of the zonale
Geranium, of a, reddish-olive color, veined with white.
There will be a tuft of foliage at the end of a vine,
much after the style of growth of a Strawberry plant
with runners; at this tuft other runners will be sent
out, each of which will terminate in a tuft of foliage,
and in this manner the plant keeps on enlarging until

FLG 44—SAXIFRAGA SARMENSOSA

BASKET PLANTS 181

it covers a basket with its thread-like vines and pretty
clusters of leaves. Give it ordinary soil, moderate
amount of water, and shade.

The Vinca

The Vinca is a fine drooping plant, having rich,
smooth foliage of a bright, shining green. V. Harri-
sonit has a leaf blotched with white and pale green in
the center. V”. major variegata has a leaf edged with
white. All varieties have a pretty, light blue flower.

weet Alyssum

This is a pretty annual, having a great profusion
of small white flowers, which are very fragrant. It is
an excellent basket plant for winter, if sown late in
the season. It is very fine for cutting.

The Linaria

Linaria cymbalaria, known in some localities as
Kenilworth Ivy and in others as Coliseum Ivy, is a
pretty basket plant, sending out a great profusion of
slender branches, thickly set with small foliage. Of
easiest cultivation.

Moneywort

This is a well-known old basket plant, having
pretty green foliage and bright yellow flowers. It
sends out many branches, which make a growth of
two or three feet. It is a good plant, of very easy
culinre.

The O-alis

This, in its several varieties, is one of the best
flowering plants we can grow for winter use (Fig 13).

182 HOME FLORICULTURE

It should be potted in fall, several roots in a pot, and
given a sunny place. It blooms profusely and con-
stantly during the entire season.

The Trailing Lantana

This is a charming basket plant because of its
free flowering qualities. Its flowers are similar in
shape and size to those of the shrubby Lantana. In
color they are a rosy mauve. They are produced with
such profusion that the entire plant seems enveloped
in a cloud of dainty bloom which hides the foliage
almost completely. It can be cut back from time to
time, and made to become very bushy and compact.
It blooms during the greater part of the year, if allowed
to have its own way. Plants for winter use, however,
ought to be cut back sharply in August, and made to
produce an entire new growth of branches for winter.

CHAPTER XXXV

BULBS FOR WINTER FLOWERING

No collection of flowers can be considered com-
plete, nowadays, if it does not include a variety of
bulbs so treated that they will come into bloom in
midwinter when few other plants can be depended on
to furnish flowers.

The amateur florist will have no trouble in flower-
ing bulbs in the house if he or she is willing to be
guided by certain rules which experience has proved
to be good ones—rules which it is imperatively neces-
sary to follow in order to insure complete success.

It must be borne in mind, when we bring a bulb
into blossom in winter, that we are reversing the nat-
ural order of things, which is, that these plants shall be
in a dormant condition at that time. It is an unnatural
process, therefore, but in order to secure as great a
measure of success as possible, we must follow the
methods of Nature so far as we can understand them.

If we plant a bulb in the garden in September
or October, it makes no visible growth of top that
season. But if you were to dig it up any time before
the closing in of winter, and examine it, you would
find that it had begun to make root growth. All
through the winter it goes on making active prepara-
tions for spring’s work. As soon as the snow melts
and the sun shines, it will send up a top, and the
vigor of its growth depends largely on the condition
in which its roots are. If there has been satisfactory
development of them, this growth will be strong and
healthy. If there is imperfect development, the growth
of the top will be proportionately weak. It is therefore
important that bulbs be planted as early as possible.

184 HOME FLORICULTURE

In potting bulbs from which we desire winter
flowers, it is necessary, as I have said, to imitate the
processes of nature, therefore, immediately after pot-
ting them, the bulbs must be put away in the dark to
form roots before they are brought to the light. If
put in the light as soon as potted, the roots and the
top would begin to grow at the same time, and as
there would be no strong roots to nourish and support
the top, the development of that part of the plant
would be weak, and if any flowers were produced they
would be inferior ones. By putting the bulbs in the
dark, we imitate the conditions which prevail when
we put them in the ground, in fall. The dark place
in which they are stored should also be a cool one.
Were it warm, the top growth might begin prema-
turely, or before there were roots enough to support it
properly. Growth of stalks and leaves is encouraged
by warmth and light; growth of roots by darkness
and low temperature. Therefore, if you want fine
plants, give them ample opportunity to complete the
latter growth first, and then bring them under condi-
tions which will stimulate the development of leaves
and flowers.

In this way—and in this way only—can we grow
bulbs well, in the house. We are often told by those
to whom this plan is recommended, that in their
opinion it is simply a “whim,” but there is no “whim”
about it. It is simply following out Nature’s plan.
This method of starting bulbs is strictly scientific in
its nature, if we may be allowed this use of the term
in reference to a process which is an imitative one to
a very great degree. Those who pot their bulbs and
place them at once in the window will almost
invariably fail with them, but by following the method
Qutlined above success can always be depended on.

BULBS FOR WINTER FLOWERING 185

The proper soil in which to grow bulbs is made
up of loam and well-rotted cow manure, with sand
enough worked in to make the compost light and
friable. It should be worked over until mellow. If
cow manure is not available, use bone meal in the
proportion of a teacupful to a half bushel of soil. On
no account use fresh manure. It is sure to injure bulbs.

In potting, several bulbs can be grown in the same
pot, if six, seven and eight-inch sizes are used. A
much better effect is secured by massing them than
can be obtained if they are grown singly. A five-inch
pot is quite large enough to accommodate two bulbs of
Hyacinth of ordinary size. A six-inch pot will be large
enough for two larger bulbs, and a seven-inch pot will
hold four bulbs, while five and six bulbs can be grown
in an eight-inch pot.

Cover the bulbs to the depth of about an inch,
water them well, to settle the soil about them, and
then set them away in whatever cool, dark place you
have chosen to store them in while roots are being
formed. Some use the cellar. This is a good place
for them. Others dig a trench in the ground and
sink the pots in it, drawing the soil about them after
they are in place, and covering with boards or leaves,
to exclude light. Others put them in a room away from
fire heat, whose windows can be darkened. It does
not much matter where they are placed, if they can
be kept cool and dark. These are the points to aim
at, at this stage of proceedings.

Most kinds should be left in the starting room at
least a month, and some will require twice that length
of time in which to fully develop roots. There is no
definite period for this part of the work. They are
to be left there until roots are formed, be the time
long or short. Some will insist on making a growth
of top shortly after being potted. If you find that

186 HOME FLORICULTURE

they are inclined to do this, it is as well to bring
them up at once, as they will keep on growing after
having begun, and they will surely be spoiled if left
in the dark after top growth has started. The reason
for this behavior on their part is this: They have been
kept under conditions which excite premature develop-
ment. Probably too much light or warmth has been
given them. Most bulbs will grow to some extent
when exposed to such conditions, if not potted, the
same as Onions will, in the cellar. Such bulbs are
weak, and seldom bloom. It is always advisable to
procure fresh, strong bulbs each season. These only
are to be depended on.

After the bulbs have been in the cellar or cold
storage about a month, examine them, turn the ball
of earth out of a pot and ascertain if the roots have
reached the outside of it. If they have, it will be
safe to bring the pots to the window, but do not
bring them all at once, if you want a succession of
flowers. By keeping some of them in low temperature
the growth of the top can be retarded for some time.
It is well to pot them at intervals, for by doing this,
and leaving some of them in cold storage longer than
others, we can manage to have flowers from bulbs
during the greater part of winter.

Right here let us anticipate the question sure to
be asked about the care required by bulbs after they
have completed their winter flowering. We cannot
advise carrying them over for another season. While
it is true that once in a while a bulb will bloom a
second time, after forcing, it is equally true that most
of them will not do so. As a general thing, a bulb
which has been forced is so exhausted by it that it
is worthless afterward. It can never be depended on,
therefore, to avoid disappointment, buy fresh, strong
bulbs each season. These you can depend on.

BULBS FOR WINTER FLOWERING 187

On bringing your bulbs to the light, do not put
them in a very warm room. A temperature of sixty
degrees is much better for them than a higher one.
In a low temperature, such as characterizes spring, the
growth will be a healthy one, while a high one will
force them too rapidly, and the development will be
correspondingly weak. In a very warm room, many
buds will blast. When in bloom the cooler you keep
the plants, the longer their flowers will last.

Hyacinths often show buds shortly after the top
starts. The flower spike will appear away down
among the green leaves, and there it will seem deter-
mined to stay. If any flowers open while the buds are
in this bunched-up condition they will not show to any
advantage, and you will be greatly disappointed in
your plant. As soon as you notice the tendency of a
stalk to not develop properly, make a cone of thick
brown paper, the size of the pot. Cut off about an
inch and a half of the apex of it, and put it over the
pot. The flower stalk will reach up toward the light,
and in this way you can often succeed in coaxing it
out of its sulkiness. This must be done as soon as
you discover that the stalk is at a standstill. If you
wait until the buds begin to open the use of the
paper cover will be of no benefit.

Lilies

One of the favorite flowers for forcing is the
Bermuda Lily, generally known as Easter Lily, and
cataloged as Lilium Harrisii (Fig 45). Nothing can
be finer than a large specimen of this superb plant,
crowned with its great cluster of trumpet-shaped
flowers of the purest white, of waxen texture, and
most delightful fragrance. Such a plant is something

to be proud of. As an ornament for the parlor it is
exquisite, and for church use nothing equals it. A

FIG 45—THE BERMUDA LILY

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3

BULBS FOR WINTER FLOWERING 189

good method to follow in growing this plant is this:
Put three or four large and solid bulbs in each nine

FIG 40—ROMAN HYACINTH

or ten-inch pot, on top of about five inches of soil.
Cover lightly, water, and set away to form roots. As

Igo HOME FLORICULTURE

soon as the flower stalk starts bring them to the light,
and as the stalk reaches up, fill in about it with soil,
and continue to do this until the pot is full. The
reason for planting the bulb low in the pot is, the
roots, which furnish support for the stalk, are sent out
above the bulb. If the bulbs are potted high, they find
no soil for these roots to take hold of. The candidum
and longiflorum Lilies are excellent for forcing, and
should have the same treatment advised for L. Harrisii.
The lover of beautiful flowers makes a great mistake
if he fails to include some of these superb Lilies in
his fall order.

Hyacinths

The Hyacinth will be found one of the most satis-
factory of all bulbs for forcing. It comes in many
beautiful colors, is very fragrant, and not one bulb
in a hundred will fail to bloom if the treatment advised
above is followed. The single sorts are preferable, as
they have a more graceful spike of flowers than the
double kinds, but the latter are deserving a place in
all collections.

No one should fail to grow the Roman Hyacinths
(Fig 46). These send up several flower stalks from
the same bulb. Their single flowers are loosely
arranged along the spike, and assert themselves most
charmingly. These come in pink, white and blue.
They are as fragrant as the Dutch sorts and preferable
to them for cutting.

Tulips and Narcissus

Among the Tulips the single kinds are almost
always selected, as being most certain to give satis-
faction.

The Narcissus, or Daffodil (Fig 47), is one of the
most charming of all flowers. No collection of winter

FIG 47—TYPES OF NARCISSUS

192 HOME FLORICULTURE

flowering bulbs can afford to be without them. They
are simply magnificent. They are of the easiest cul-
ture. Their flowers remain a long time in perfection.
Be sure to order some of all the varieties recommended
as suitable for forcing.

Lily of the Valley

Many persons attempt to bring the Lily of the
Valley (Fig 48) into bloom in the house, and fail with
it because they treat it as they do the bulbs spoken
of above. The pips or crowns should always be fresh
ones, procured from reliable dealers who make sure
of obtaining the best stock on the market. Keep
them in a cold place until you are ready to force
them, and then put them in pots containing sphagnum
moss or sand, and place them, after watering them
well, where they will have as steady a heat as possible,
of seventy to seventy-five degrees. It is quite impor-
tant that the moss or sand should never be allowed to
get dry. Keep the plants in a semi-dark place until
their stems are two or three inches high. Then remove
to a lighter position in order to give the flowers a
chance to develop. This treatment, it will be observed,
is hardly such as can be given in the ordinary living
room, therefore one ought not to depend wholly on
this one plant for winter flowers. A greenhouse is
the best place for it.

Get your pots and your potting soil ready for your
bulbs as soon as you send off your order for them
and see to their planting as soon as they arrive.
Nothing injures a bulb more than to expose it to the
air and light for some time before potting.

Freesia

The Freesia is a most delightful little flower, in
form, color and fragrance, and it is unsurpassed for

BULBS FOR WINTER FLOWERING 193

cutting for use in small bouquets, and in dainty vases
where quality counts for more than quantity. Put a

FIG 48—BUNCH OF LILY OF THE VALLEY

dozen bulbs in each six-inch pot. Unlike other bulbs
this should not be placed in the dark but kept in the

194 HOME FLORICULTURE

light from time of potting. After flowering, they
should be watered moderately until the foliage ripens.
Then allow the soil in the pot to become quite dry, and
set the plants away in some quiet place until the
following August. Then shake out the old bulbs, and
repot them for another season’s work. This plant
can be depended on for a second season’s flowering.

For the sake of variety, one should include
Crocus, Jonquils, Alliums, Lachenalias, and, in fact,
nearly all bulbs which are found in the catalogs of the
florists. They are all charming flowers, and a few of
them add vastly to the pleasure which a collection of
winter flowering bulbs can afford.

Below will be found a list of such kinds as are
best adapted to the requirements of the amateur:

Allium Neapolitanum and Hermetti grandiforum
—Large clusters of starry white flowers. Fine for
cutting (Fig 49).

Hyacinth—Romans for early flowering. Dutch
for pots and glasses. Always get best named sorts.

Ixias—Mixed colors.

Jonquils—Single and double. Campernelle, large,
and Campernelle rugulosus, a grand variety. All
yellow and very fragrant. Specially desirable.

Lachenalia—Fine for hanging baskets. Charming
flowers, of peculiar combinations of color. Foliage
very pretty.

Lilinm—Harrisii, longiflorwm and candidwmn.

Lily of the Valley—German-grown pips most
desirable and likely to give satisfaction.

Muscari—The “Grape Hyacinth.” Feathery
flowers in blue and white.

Narcissus—All good. The following are espe-
cially recommended: Large Trumpet varieties—
Trumpet major, Emperor, Empress, Henry Irving,
Princeps, Golden Spur, Horsfieldii, Maximus and Ard

FIG 49—THE NEAPOLITAN ALLIUM

196 HOME FLORICULTURE

Righ. Peerless or Star varieties—Stella, Sir Watkin,
Figaro, Leedsii, Cynosure and Barti conspicuus.
Double varieties—Van Sioit, Orange Phoenix, Sulphur
Phoenix and Incomparable. Polyanthus varieties—
Paper White grandiflora, Grand Soleil d’Or, White
Pearl, Grand Monarque and Grand Primo.

The Chinese Sacred Lily is a variety of Polyan-
thus Narcissus, of very easy culture. It is generally
grown in bowls or vases of water, with a handful of
small stones or pebbles about the bulb to hold it in
place, and any of the Polyanthus varieties may be
grown in the same way. The Poet’s Narcissus, and
the Hoop Petticoat varieties ought not to be over-
looked. Both are very desirable.

Oxalis—Buttercup, of rich golden yellow, with
large clusters of fine flowers borne on long stems above
the foliage. A magnificent plant for a hanging basket.
One of the finest of all plants, in fact, for this purpose.
The rose and white varieties are also fine for hanging
pots. Plant three or four bulbs in each pot.

Nerine sarniensis (Guernsey Lily)—A_ species
closely related to Amaryllis, blooming freely in winter.
Blossoms a brilliant crimson, seeming to be sprinkled
with gold dust. Fine.

Tulip—Single. Duc Van Thol sorts preferable.

Zephyranthes—White and pink.

Astilbe—While not a bulb, this plant may prop-
erly be mentioned here, as it is used extensively for
winter flowering. Its flowers are white, of an airy,
feathery character, and its foliage very pleasine.
Strong clumps of roots are furnished, which should
be potted and kept in a cool place until January. A
beautiful plant for greenhouse use, but also adapted
to cultivation in a cool window.

CHAPTER XXXVI

APPLIANCES FOR THE AMATEUR’S USE

All owners of collections of plants ought to pro-
vide themselves with such conveniences as will enable
them to take the best possible care of them with the
least trouble. There are many useful articles, which
can be had for a very reasonable price, which will
make work among plants easy and pleasant. They
make it possible for us to take much better care of our

ab:

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rq

FIG 50—HAND PRUNING SHEARS

plants than we can if we fail to avail ourselves of the
help of these conveniences.

Every amateur should own some pruning shears
(Fig 50). These will be found useful in window
garden, greenhouse or outdoor garden.

The thermometer ought to occupy a prominent
place in every collection, and the owner of the green-
house or window garden in which it is placed should
be governed by its registration as far as possible.

Indestructible labels should be used where there
are many plants, for it is a difficult matter to remem-
ber the names of many of them, and every person who
grows plants wants to know just what they are.

198 HOME FLORICULTURE

Never depend on memory, or the little wooden labels
which come with the plants you buy.

Trowels for transplanting and digging among
plants will be needed in every home where flowers
are grown.

A weeding hook will be found a great convenience
in stirring the soil about your plants—much better than
the stick with which the work is generally done. Some
of the most approved styles are shown in Fig 51.

FIG 5I—SERVICEABLE WEEDING IMPLEMENTS

Watering pots ought always to be at hand. The
best are those made of heavy galvanized iron. The
most useful ones are those having a long, slender spout,
which will enable you to put the water just where it
is needed without spilling or slopping it. Every water-
ing pot ought to be fitted with a set of nozzles, which
can be slipped on over the end of the spout, when it
is necessary to spray plants, or the floor of the green-
house.

Every amateur ought to have a portable spray
pump (Fig 4). It will be found one of the most

APPLIANCES FOR THE AMATEUR’S USE 199

useful things about the place. It will come into use
daily. Use one for a week, and you will wonder how
you ever got along without it. These are fitted with
hose, to enable you to throw a stream. Each'hose has a
nozzle which can be adjusted in such a manner as to
throw a stream, of a spray of any degree of fineness.
The pumps will be found useful in many ways, out-
side the greenhouse, as for washing windows or
buggies, putting out incipient fires, or applying insec-
ticides to plants in the garden.

The only good substitute for these pumps is the
brass syringe (Fig 2) made expressly for florists’ use.

FIG 52—FOLDING PLANT STAND

This is another most useful article for showering
plants, or the application of insecticides, etc. One will
last a lifetime, and will be found a good investment.
Use one of them and you will never thereafter depend
on rubber sprinklers or hand atomizers.

Every owner of a collection of house plants ought
also to own plant stands for them, either of wood or
wire. These enable us to arrange our plants to the
best advantage, both for their good, and for decora-
tive effect. They will be found more convenient in
every way than tables or shelves. Being provided

200 HOME FLORICULTURE

with casters, the wire stands allow us to move a
large number of plants about without lifting a pot at
a time, as is usually done. These stands are also
valuable because they offer no obstruction to the light,
and can be used in any position without shading the
plants. A neat and convenient wooden plant stand is
seen in Fig 52.

Swinging iron brackets will be found extremely
satisfactory for use at the sides of the window. They
enable us to make the window attractive, by growing
on them plants of spreading or drooping habit whose
beauty would be covered up to a great extent, and
therefore wasted, if we were to give them a place
among others, where they could not display their own
individuality. These brackets can be swung toward
the glass, or away from it, and a trial of them will
readily convince anyone of their practical utility, as
well as of the decorative possibilities which can be
realized by their use.

Another excellent article is the plant stand by
which single specimens can be elevated to any desired
hight. These will be found invaluable in decorating
rooms with growing plants, for parties and other
special occasions, for it is almost always necessary to
give some plants an elevated position in order to
produce the effects aimed at in our decorative scheme.

Another desirable article is the wood fiber saucer.
These make it possible for us to use plants on the finest
furniture, like the piano, the mantel or the sideboard,
without running any risk of injury, as they are non-
porous. A stand for large plants, made from the same
material, is fitted with casters. This is also very
useful, as it enables us to move heavy plants easily
without lifting them.

The pot lifter is a handy little device which can
readily be attached to large pots, and made to serve

APPLIANCES FOR THE AMATEUR’S USE 201

as handles, with which these pots are never provided
by the manufacturer.

For large plants, wooden tubs are furnished.
These will be found very useful in the greenhouse or
bay window, to accommodate plants which have out-
grown the capacity of a pot of the ordinary size.

Bellows for the application of dry and liquid
insecticides and fungicides should be provided. They
will come in play many times during the season. The
owners of these and other conveniences of a similar
nature will find it so easy to give plants the attention
they need by the use of them that they will have no
excuse for neglecting to do so, as they will be almost
sure to, if such conveniences are not at hand. They
make it easy for us to reduce things to a system, and
to do what is needed when it is needed, because we
have the proper utensils to do it with easily and
effectively.

Plant stakes of different sizes should be always on
hand. Nothing so detracts from the pleasing appear-
ance of a plant as the makeshift supports often pro-
vided. A neat painted stake costs but little.

A supply of good pots of different sizes ought to
be kept on hand by the amateur. If we have pots
convenient, we generally repot plants when they need
it. If we have to “wait till we get some,” the plant
generally suffers from neglect to attend to it properly.

A supply of the various insecticides and fungi-
cides needed by the amateur quite as much as by the
professional florist, if he would keep his plants in good
condition, ought always to be at hand, so that proper
attention can be given to the enemies of plant life
and health promptly and effectively. With this, as
with repotting, we often wait until the injury done is
so great that the plant cannot recover. If we have the
material at hand to work with, this will not be likely

202 HOME FLORICULTURE

to be the case, as our regard for the welfare of our
plants will lead us to come to their relief at once.

A supply of bone meal and plant food should con-
stitute a portion of the amateur’s outfit. It will be
needed at all seasons. Aim to never be without a
supply of it.

It is always a wise plan to keep these things by us,
for, as has been said, we are likely to need them at
any time. If we are without them, when needed, we
are not in shape to take care of our plants as they
ought to be taken care of. Whatever needs doing
ought to be done as soon as the existence of that need
is discovered, and in order to do this, we must antici-
pate, to a great extent, and provide ourselves with all
necessary articles in advance. This is what the farmer,
the housewife, and other men and women, do in their
respective lines of business, and it is wisdom for the
amateur, who grows flowers for pleasure, to pattern
after them in this respect, as by so doing the work can
be done in a businesslike way. A good plan to follow
is this: Make pleasure as businesslike as possible anc
crowd all the pleasure you can into your business.
And the only way in which you can do this is by
“having things handy.”

CHAPTER XXXVII

SMALL GREENHOUSES

I am glad to note that the lovers of flowers are
evincing a growing interest in small buildings specially
adapted to their culture. While it is true that fine
plants can be grown in the sitting room, it is equally
true that much finer ones can be grown in rooms
adapted expressly to the wants of the plants. The
reasons will be easily understood by those who give
the matter a very little thought. In such a place
temperature, moisture, light and shade, can be arranged
to suit the plants, while in the living room it is
impossible to govern these things to a nicety. A small
greenhouse will accommodate as many plants as most
persons who grow them for their own pleasure can
find time to take care of, while in the sitting room
or parlor the number grown must necessarily
be limited. In a greenhouse a much greater variety
can be grown, for plants will flourish there which
would die if taken into the living room. Some of our
finest plants, therefore, have to be neglected by the
owner of a window garden because he knows that it
would be useless to try to grow them under conditions
which prevail there.

A great many persons labor under the impression
that even a small greenhouse is very expensive. Such
is not the case, however, if a plain house is built, and
such a house will enable you to grow just as fine plants
as the most elaborate structure. Material of ordinary
quality can be used, and much of the work can be
done by any person who is at all handy with tools.

But while it is true that a small house can be
built for much less money than most persons imagine

204 HOME FLORICULTURE

who have given the matter little thought and no inves-
tigation, it is equally true that it cannot be built for a
song. But one thing I am quite sure of: that many
persons who often express a wish that they had a
place expressly for plants spend more money foolishly
in the course of a year than it would cost to build a
very good greenhouse. Perhaps I ought not to say
foolishly, but what I mean is, that money is expended
unnecessarily. If a greenhouse were determined on,
money enough might be saved to build it, while with-
out this plan in view, the money required would
doubtless be spent in ways from which no visible
benefit would be seen at the end of the year. A little
curtailing of expenses would do the work. If persons
fond of flowers only knew the great amount of pleasure
to be derived from such a house, well stocked with
plants, they would be willing to economize in all ways
to secure one. It will be found to be the pleasantest
part of the home, and there is health in it, and a
source of education for the children. I wish those
who have window collections which bid fair to outgrow
their present quarters would think about this matter
and see if it is not possible to give the plants a room
by themselves. Both plants and plant owners would
appreciate it.

In building, it pays to build well. When we have
to make provision for not only a possible but a prob-
able thirty-degree-below-zero spell of weather, no ordi-
nary, cheaply built wall will keep out the cold, and
our greenhouses must be built with a view to doing
this. I am sorry that I cannot tell those who ask me
for estimates of cheap structures that a house which
will answer all purposes can be built for twenty-five
dollars, or fifty dollars, or one hundred dollars, fully
equipped for work, for I would be very glad to see
such a house attached to every home where there is

——

SMALL GREENHOUSES 205

one who cares for flowers. I have received many let-
ters during the past year from women who would like
to start out in a small way in flower growing as a
means of earning something, in which the writers say
that they have a small sum of money which they
might use in putting up a small house, and asking
if I think it would pay them to do so. I have to tell
them that I do not think it would. A house smaller
than sixteen by twenty would not enable them to grow
as many plants as they would be obliged to in order
to make anything from them, and it would be impos-
sible to build a house of that size in this section for
less than two hundred dollars, let the builder economize
to the greatest possible extent. In trying to put up
a house for any smaller amount—that is, a house
which would answer the purposes of such persons—
it would be throwing money away. But when a person
writes that he has two or three hundred dollars to
invest in this enterprise, I can conscientiously advise
him to go ahead, for I know from my own experience
that a good house can be built for that; a house large
enough to accommodate as many plants as most ama-
teurs would care to grow, and which will, if properly
built, afford ample protection against the rigors of our
severest winters.

It is often advised that the walls of a greenhouse
should be constructed by setting posts in the ground
and boarding up on each side of them. If this is
done, the cost will be greatly lessened, but I would
not advise doing it, because the posts will rot in a
few years, and then you will be obliged to rebuild,
therefore in the end nothing is saved by building in
this manner. I would advise having the greenhouse
built just as substantially as the dwelling to which it
is attached, for such a house will be good for years.
The cheaper way is very questionable economy.

206 HOME FLORICULTURE

I have my houses built on walls of stone reaching
down below frost-line, thus affording a solid and per-
manent foundation for them, and doing away with
all danger of heaving from frost. On top of this wall
sills are placed and two-by-fours set up, sixteen inches
apart, along them. On both sides of these two-by-fours
is a course of matched boarding. Over this tarred
sheathing paper is tacked. Inside there is a row of
matched ceiling boards, while on the outside there is
another thickness of paper, and another thickness of
matched boarding, then another thickness of paper,
after which the wall is finished with what is called
at the West “novelty siding’’—a kind of matched clap-
boarding which gives a much better finish to the
outside of buildings than the ordinary clapboard.
Thus I obtain a wall in which there is an air space
from which all cold wind is excluded. It pays to
build well when you are at it, for the snugger and
tighter you have your walls the less fuel you will
have to use.

The side walls are four and a half feet high. They
come up to the roof, no glass being needed on the
sides of such a building. The wall at the south
end is only three feet high; above that the end is
filled in with sash. Get all the south sunshine you
can. The roof is all glass, with two sections on
each side which are hung with hinges at the top.
These lift for ventilation. The sash in the end is
double glazed, and these two thicknesses of glass
enable me to leave plants standing with their leaves
touching the inner thickness during our coldest winter
weather, something that I could not do with safety
if there were no double glazing. If thought preferable,
there can be two sets of sash, and the outer one
can be put on in fall and taken off in spring. The
space between the two panes answers a double purpose:

SMALL GREENHOUSES 207

It keeps the frost from accumulating on either pane,
therefore the plants are not likely to be nipped if left
touching the glass on the inside, and there is no frost
to shut out the sunshine. Much of the sash in the
end is hung on hinges so that it can be swung outward
in summer, thus letting in plenty of fresh air from
the end as well as roof.

FIG 53—THE AUTHOR'S GREENHOUSE

I have what I consider a model greenhouse (Fig
53). In no other way could I have expended the
money and derived so much pleasure from it.

208 HOME FLORICULTURE

When my greenhouse was still “a castle in Spain,”
I began to study up the matter of heating it, were it
ever to materialize. I wrote to practical florists for
their opinions. Some advised steam heating. Others
advised hot water heating. The majority seemed to
be in favor of the latter system. After investigating
the relative merits of both systems and visiting houses
heated in both ways, I came to the conclusion that
for small houses, such as the amateur would be likely
to build, hot water heating is much preferable in several
ways. Steam heating would doubtless be better for
large houses, but in small ones it would not be as con-
trollable, and certainly not as cheap, as hot water
heating. Many dwellings are now heated by steam
or hot water, and where this is done, it is an easy
matter to extend the system to the greenhouse without
much trouble and but little extra cost over the expense
of the piping required. In such a case, you can heat
your greenhouse very cheaply. If you have to buy
a heating outfit expressly for it the cost will be consid-
erably increased.

When my greenhouse was first built, I had a
heater put in for heating it, while the dwelling part
was warmed by coal stoves. Two years ago I decided
to discard stoves from the dwelling and put in a hot
water apparatus large enough to furnish heat for both
dwelling and greenhouse. I find that it works per-
fectly. The greenhouse circulation is controlled to suit
the weather by valves in the pipes taking the water
from the heater to the greenhouse, so that a large
amount of heat can be let on if desired, or all heat
can be shut off, by simply opening or closing a valve.
It is the same with that part of the circulation which
extends to the dwelling. The quality of heat is much
more satisfactory than that obtained from steam, being
moister and milder. Steam heat is pretty sure to be

SMALL GREENHOUSES 209

dry and intense in character. With the hot water sys-
tem a slight fire can be kept, but as long as you
have any fire at all the water will circulate in the
pipes, while with steam you must keep the fire brisk
enough to bring and keep the water to that degree
in which it will give off steam to fill the pipes. It will
be readily understood from this that the temperature
can be regulated much more satisfactorily in a small
house where hot water is used as a means of heating
than it would be possible to do with steam.

The pipes by which the greenhouse is warmed
run around the building on the sides and one end.
There are four of them, all four inches in size. They
are arranged with valves in such a manner that two
pipes, one flow and one return, can be used for ordi-
nary weather, while in colder weather the two others
can be added. The principle of circulation may not
be understood by the reader who has not looked into
the matter, but if he cares to “post” himself, he can
very easily do so by sending to the manufacturers of
heating apparatus and asking for their catalogs, in
which the system is fully explained. He can get
estimates from them of the cost of fitting out his
greenhouse with heating outfit.

In arranging the interior of a small greenhouse
economy of space must be taken into consideration,
and at the same time due regard must be given to an
arrangement which will admit of showing off the
plants most effectively. I would advise running a row
of benches around two sides and the end, about three
feet wide. In the center I would have a table or stand,
with shelves arranged in such a manner that when
filled with plants it would look like a pyramid of
foliage and flowers. It would be a sort of plant stand
rising from each side and both ends, to a central
shelf which would be high enough to lift the plants

210 HOME FLORICULTURE

on it well toward the roof. In this way you can
arrange your plants very effectively, and they will
not be crowded, while they get the benefit received
by being as near the glass as possible. This gives
you a walk all around the house between side benches
and tables. Against the end next the dwelling I have
vines trained which completely cover the walls and
run along the rafters.

The ventilating sections are controlled by rods and
cranks, which enables anyone to lift or close them very
easily, and the sash can be left at any place with
the assurance that it will stay there till moved by
the power which controls it. It cannot be lifted by a
sudden gust of wind and flung down upon the roof,
breaking glass and often sash bars, as ventilating
sections often are when the old style of lifting rod
is used.

I am often asked to give estimates of the actual
cost of constructing such a house. This it is impos-
sible to do because the cost of work and material varies
so. With me lumber may be cheap, while with you
it may be expensive. The only way to get at the
probable cost of such a structure is to go to some
practical carpenter and tell him what you want. He
can figure out the amount of lumber, the quantity of
sash, the cost of the work, and give you a very close
idea of the total cost with the exception of the heating
apparatus. The cost of that, as I have said, you
can ascertain by correspondence with the manufac-
turers of it.

CHAPTER XXXVIII

GARDEN MAKING AND SEED SOWING

Do not be in too great a hurry to make your flower
garden in spring, for nothing is gained by working in
advance of the season. Wait till the water from melt-
ing snows and spring rains has had a chance to drain
off before you spade up the beds.

When the ground is in such a condition that it
will not stick to the spade, but cleave away from it
and break apart easily, it will be safe to begin work.
The first thing to do is to spade up the soil to the
depth of at least a foot. A foot and a half is better.
Choose a warm, sunshiny day for this work, and throw
up the earth as lightly as possible, so that the air and
sun can take effect on it. Leave it until it is in a
condition to crumble easily before doing anything more
with it. Then get some well-rotted manure and mix
with it thoroughly. If you work it over once or twice,
you will have the soil fine, light and mellow, and
that is just what you want it to be.

Do not sow flower seeds before you feel quite
sure that warm weather has come to stay. The enthu-
siastic young florist, and some older ones, too, for that
matter, always gets in a hurry to have his garden
made when he sees “green things growing,” and quite
often he finds to his sorrow that “haste makes waste,”
for our first early warm days are only promises of
what is to follow, and we ought not to be deceived
by them into thinking that summer has really come.
If you sow seed before the ground gets warm it will
rot. If the seed starts, a “cold snap” may come along
and kill your young and tender plants. Therefore,
don’t be in too great a hurry. Remember that a plant

212 HOME FLORICULTURE

started about the first of June often gets ahead of a
plant started the middle of May. The May plant lacks
the vitality and strength of the June plant, and falls
behind in the race, although it had two weeks’ start
of the latter. The latter had the “staying qualities”
which the premature growth of the former had robbed,
or rather cheated, it of.

It may seem to be a very unimportant matter, but
the fact is that the sowing of seed has a great deal to
do with the successful culture of flowers in the garden.
The soil must be warm, so that the seed intrusted to
it will germinate readily. It must be light and fine, so
that small seed will not be smothered under lumps
and clods. A warm, fine soil and moisture are con-
ducive to the successful germination of seeds, and if
you have those which you know to be good, and sow
them under the proper conditions, you may be reason-
ably sure of success.

After making the beds, and raking the surface
over and over to thoroughly pulverize the soil, take a
smooth board and press it down all over them to make
the earth in which, or on which, you are to sow the
seed, firm. If this is not done the drying winds and
sunshine will soon extract the moisture from it, and
delicate seeds may fail to grow because of a lack in
that direction. It will not make the soil hard, but
simply compact, and fine roots will find no difficulty
in penetrating it readily.

I prefer to sow seed on the surface of a bed
prepared in this way, and cover it by sifting on soil.
It is easy to cover to the right depth by this method,
while by the old one of drawing a stick along the beds
and making little furrows into which the seed is
dropped, one is very likely to get a portion of it
covered so deeply that it will be unable to prick up
through its covering. Fine seed requires but very

GARDEN MAKING AND SEED SOWING 213

slight covering, and in no way can it be put on as
evenly as by sifting.

After having scattered the seed on the bed, and
sifted the soil over it, take your board and press
lightly to firm the covering down, and make it able
to retain moisture longer than it will if left in the
condition it is in when just fallen from the sieve.

If the weather should prove to be dry, it may be
necessary to sprinkle the beds once a day. Do this
at night or early in the morning. Be sure not to let
the soil get dry on the surface before your plants
have come up. They must have moisture at this stage
of their existence, or, rather, their attempt to begin
an existence.

As soon as the plants appear, begin to pull up
such weeds as will be sure to come along with them.
A flowering plant and a weed are always at enmity
with each other. It is a struggle between them from
the beginning for the possession of the bed, and in
ninety-nine cases out of one hundred the weed will
get possession. There can be no compromise if you
would have good flowers. Keep the weeds down or
let them have their way. Most flowering plants are
rather delicate at first, and it takes them some time
to get strength enough to make a robust growth, while
weeds go ahead vigorously from the start, and if
you allow them to remain they will. soon rob the
others of the nourishment they ought to receive from
the soil, and so spread their roots about that it will
be difficult to pull them up later, without pulling up
the plants you want to remain in the beds. Therefore,
begin weeding your beds just as soon as you are able
to tell the difference between weed and flower. And
be sure to keep your beds clean all through the season.
Nothing looks worse to the lover of flowers than a
bed in which weeds and flowers grow together. In

214 HOME FLORICULTURE

order to keep the weeds down, you will be obliged
to work at them late and early, for they grow so
rapidly that they soon overcome the flowers if left
to themselves. Neglect your beds for two weeks and
you will be surprised to see what a start the weeds
have got in them. They will tower above the flowering
plants, and assert themselves everywhere with a see-
what-I-can-do-if-you-give-me-a-chance air that chal-
lenges your admiration for their pluck and aggressive-
ness, notwithstanding your dislike for them.

Thin out your plants wherever they stand too
thick, but do not throw any away until you know
that no one would care for what you have no use for.
It is a good plan to have a corner of the garden in
which to set surplus plants, for cutting from.

Some persons like to start their seeds early in
the season, in the house. In doing this care must be
taken to give plenty of air, and to prevent the plants
from becoming weak and spindling by reason of too
much heat and moisture. Give just enough water to
keep the soil moist, and as little artificial heat as
possible. On sunny days put the boxes on the veranda,
but bring in before the sun goes down and the air
gets chilly. If you give plenty of air, sun, and not
too much water, you can raise good, strong plants
in this way, but if they are not strong and healthy
at the time of transplanting to the garden beds, they
will lag along and come out behind those raised from
seed sown directly in the beds. I prefer to sow most
annuals in the beds, because the labor is less, the results
are more likely to be satisfactory, and as a general thing
the plants grown in this way are quite as early in
flowering as those which have been started in boxes
or pots, even if they have had the proper kind of
treatment. This being the case, I, cannot see that
one gains by starting plants in the house.

GARDEN MAKING AND SEED SOWING 215

In making beds in which to grow flowering plants,
I would never try to carry out elaborate designs. You
want the flowers for their individual beauty, I take
it, and so long as this is secured it matters little
what the shape of the bed is. If you want beds in
which to carry out schemes of color, or produce strik-
ing effects in outline or pattern work do not make
use of flowering plants, but use such plants as the
Coleus, Golden Pyrethrum, Centaurea, Achyranthes,
Alternanthera and the like, in them. You can do this,
with them, without sacrificing the beauty or dignity of
flowers, for the effect aimed at will be supplied by
the foliage of the plants used.

Have your beds so that you can work among them
conveniently without being obliged to get into them.
A long narrow bed is more easily taken care of than
a wide or round one.

Do not attempt more than you can carry out.
Always remember that a few flowers, well grown, are
vastly more satisfactory than a great number of infe-
rior ones. Aim to grow only good ones. Do not have
many kinds if you have but little time or space at
your disposal. Get those which you know to be good,
rather than the “novelties” which may be worth grow-
ing, but which you don’t know to be so. Buy seed of
a reliable dealer always, if it costs more than that
offered by dealers you know nothing of. In this, as
in other things, the “best is the cheapest’ in the end.

CHAPTER XXXIX

THE BEST ANNUALS

Below I give a list of the best annuals for general
cultivation. It will not be understood, I trust, that
because I have not named more of those described in
the catalogs, these are the only ones worth growing.
There are dozens of good kinds which I have not
mentioned. I have selected these because I know the
amateur will be sure of success with them if he gives
them proper care, and because they are such kinds as
will give the greatest amount of pleasure with the
smallest amount of labor.

Sweet Pea—One of the most delightful of all
flowers. No garden can afford to be without it.

Petunia—One of the “old standbys’; a great
bloomer, and one of the all-the-season flowers, bloom-
ing from June to the coming of severe frosts. The
colors are mostly shades of crimson and violet, very
rich and brilliant. Some varieties are rose-colored,
and some white, while others show combinations of
all the colors of the family; one of the best plants
we have for massing; most effective when grown in
beds by itself.

Phlox—tThis is the grand flower for giving a solid
color effect. Its flowers literally cover the beds with
their brilliant hues. It comes in pink, crimson, violet,
carmine and pure white. It is a wonderful bloomer,
and will continue till very late in the season if it is
kept from perfecting seed. In sowing seed of it, I
would advise keeping each color by itself in the bed.
If mixed, the effect is too bizarre to be pleasing. A
fine effect is produced by massing the pink varieties
and using the white kinds as a border.

THE BEST ANNUALS 217

Nasturtium—This is a very richly colored flower,
mostly in shades of yellow and crimson. It is a great
bloomer and a strong grower. Its foliage is a light
green, which contrasts well with the bright, rich
blossoms.

Calliopsis—This is the most useful flower for
producing strong and rich effects. The colors range
through yellow and maroon and are very fine. A
bed of it is a most gorgeous sight when seen in sun-
shine. Fine for cutting.

Aster—This is one of the best of all annuals, and
the very best for fall use, as it does not come into
bloom until late in the season. It is quite as fine in
form as the popular Chrysanthemum, which some
varieties of it resemble so closely that they are often
sold for the latter. It comes in shades of rose, crim-
son, violet, blue and pure white, and some varieties
combine two or more of these colors in such a manner
as to give a very striking flower. The catalogs give
a long list of sorts, all of which are good. I prefer
to buy packets of seeds in which each color is by itself,
rather than the mixed ones, because it is easier to
produce fine effects with masses of one color than it
is where all colors are jumbled up together. This
holds good with any flower.

Pansy—Everyone must have a bed of this mag-
nificent flower ; nothing equals it in richness of coloring
or variety; royal purple, yellow, blue, black, white,
copper—there is no end to the list of shades combined
in the beautiful flowers which it gives us until snow
comes. If you can have but one flower in your summer
garden let it be the Pansy.

Balsam—A most excellent plant, bearing great
quantities of rose-like flowers, in rich shades of red,
purple, pink and white; no garden complete without it.

218 HOME FLORICULTURE

A geratwm—A fine lavender-blue flower; very use-
ful for cutting; a profuse and constant bloomer.

Celosita—A most peculiar plant, with “combs” of
brilliant crimson, scarlet and yellow; some varieties
have a feathery effect from the peculiar divisions of
the “comb.”

Dianthus—The Chinese Pink; a most profuse
bloomer, running through almost all colors; very fine.

Delphinium—Better known as Larkspur; charm-
ing plants for using in the background, on account of
their tall habit.

Portulaca—A vegetable salamander, enjoying our
hottest weather, and doing its best under a scorching
sun; in almost all colors; a low grower; excellent for
beds near the house or path.

Stock—More usually called Gillyflower; a most
excellent flower, coming in various shades of red, blue,
lilac, yellow and pure white; fragrant; fine for cut-
ting; a late bloomer.

Zinnia—A strong-growing plant, the larger varie-
ties well adapted for back rows; quite like a Dahlia in
form, very double, and coming in a great variety of
most brilliant colors.

Other good annuals are:

Scabiosa. Godetia.
Salpiglossis. Eschscholtzia.
Whitlavia. Gaillardia.
Schizanthus. Calendula.
Poppy. Centaurea.
Nierembergia. Cacalia.
Mirabilis. Antirrhinum.
Lupine. Nicotiana.
Myosotis. Snapdragon.

Plants for edging:
Candytuft—A low-growing plant, bearing a pro-

THE BEST ANNUALS 219

fusion of white and purple flowers; very pretty as an
edging for beds containing taller flowers.

Sweet Alyssum—Another good edging plant; a
profuse bloomer, with white flowers; very sweet, and
excellent for cutting.

Mignonette—Delightfully fragrant, and having
very pretty, if not showy flowers; one of the most
useful of all plants for bouquet use.

Lobelia—A charming little thing; blue and white ;
compact grower and great bloomer.

Flowering Vines

Morning Glory—One of the best plants we have
for covering screens, and training over doors and
windows. Exceedingly profuse in bloom and rich and
varied in coloring.

Sweet Pea—Not a tall grower, but sufficiently so
to be of use in covering low screens and fences.

Japan Hops—A very pretty vine of rapid growth,
having dark and gray-green foliage variegated with
white.

Flowering Bean—An old favorite which has been
allowed to drop out of notice, but whose merits are
bringing it again to notice. Rich scarlet flowers, as
vivid as those of a Geranium.

Cypress—A very beautiful vine of delicate habit,
with finely-cut foliage and bright scarlet flowers.

Gourds—Rank, strong-growing vines, useful for
covering summer houses and outbuildings. Valuable
chiefly because of their exceedingly rapid growth.
An effective planting of annual vines is seen in Fig 54.

I want to give “special mention” to a few flowers
named in the above lists, because of their great merit.
One of these is the Aster. Because of its great florif-
erousness, and its habit of flowering after most other

FIG 54—BACKYARD GARDEN IN A CITY LOT, DAYTON, OHIO

-

|

THE BEST ANNUALS 221

plants have passed their prime, it has long been a
general favorite. But those who are familiar only
with the popular varieties of five or six years ago
have no idea of the perfection to which our florists
have carried this plant in their improvement of old
strains. The Branching Aster, the Comet and the
Ostrich Feather sorts are as beautiful as any Chrys-
anthemum, and, in fact, they so closely resemble
some varieties of that favorite flower that they are
often mistaken for them. They are large in size, deli-
cately, as well as brilliantly, beautiful in coloring, and
have such long flower stalks that they are better
adapted for cutting than any other annual except the
Sweet Pea. They last for two weeks, when used in
vases, if the water in which they stand is changed
occasionally. The pale pinks and lavenders are
especially lovely because of their delicate daintiness
of color. i

The Sweet Pea of to-day is another most lovely
flower. Such exquisite combinations of color, such
long-stalked blossoms, and such general all-around
excellence, the old Sweet Pea never thought of laying
claim to. To grow this plant well, it must be got into
the ground very early in the season—in April, if pos-
sible. Do not wait for warm weather, but sow the seed
as soon as the ground can be worked with spade and
hoe. Make V-shaped trenches at least six inches deep,
and scatter the seed thickly in them. Then cover
lightly. When the plants have grown to be three
inches high, draw in a little of the soil thrown out from
the trench, and work it well about the plants, taking
care to not injure them in the operation. By and by,
when they have made a few more inches of growth,
fill in with more soil, and keep on doing this, from
time to time, until all the soil taken from the trench
has been returned to it. In this way we get the roots

222 HOME FLORICULTURE

of the plant down deep in the ground, where they will
be cool and moist during dry, hot weather. Allow no
seed to form on your plants, if you want them to
bloom during the entire season.

Another most excellent plant for late flowering
is the Marguerite Carnation. Plants from seed sown
in the garden will not come into bloom before October,
but early-sown plants will begin to bloom in August.
In size and richness of color, and delightful fragrance,
this strain equals the greenhouse Carnation, and it is
wonderfully floriferous. Plants can be potted in fall,
and made to bloom throughout the winter in the
window garden; where they will give better satisfac-
tion than any of the greenhouse varieties.

The Poppy of the present is a most magnificent
flower. It comes in a wide range of colors, and makes
the garden gorgeous with its brilliance for many
weeks during the summer months. Where masses of
solid color are desired, the best annuals to use are Phlox
Drummondi, in rose-color, white and pale yellow, Petu-
nias in various colors, and Calliopsis. These for large
beds, with Candytuft or Sweet Alyssum as edging.

What striking effects can be produced by the
means of inexpensive annuals is shown in Fig 55; the
principal plants being Cosmos, Castor Bean and Morn-
ing Glory.

FIG 55—ANNUALS IN A BACKYARD GARDEN

CHAPTER XL

BEDDING PLANTS AND PLANTS FOR TROPICAL EFFECT

Where striking and peculiar effects are desired it
has become customary to make use of what florists
term bedding plants in summer gardening. The term
is used to designate such kinds of greenhouse plants
as bloom well when planted out in beds, or have foliage
whose colors take the place of flowers.

The Geranium stands at the head of the list. A
garden without at least one bed of Geraniums is seldom
seen nowadays. No other “bedder’”’ gives such a bril-
liant show of color, or keeps up such constant bloom
throughout the season. All you have to do to keep a
Geranium blooming from June to frost, is to remove
the flowers as they fade and prevent the formation
of seed. The double kinds are most popular for bed-
ding, as the flowers last longer and give a more solid
color effect. The colors are so varied that you might
have a dozen beds, each wholly unlike the other in
that respect.

Tuberous Begonias are becoming very popular for
bedding purposes. They are rich in color, and produce
a fine effect.

The Bouvardia is good for use in the garden, and
will be found especially desirable for cutting from. So
will the Carnation.

The Calceolaria is much used in “ribbon” garden-
ing, and in working out patterns in flowers. ‘

Heliotrope is an excellent bedder, flowering very
freely in a rich soil. This, like the Bouvardia, will be
found very useful to cut from.

The Lantana is a profuse and constant bloomer,
and is very popular.

BEDDING PLANTS 225

The Verbena is one of the best of all bedders,
being a very free and constant bloomer, and having
intensely rich and beautiful colors.

Tea Roses deserve a place in every garden, and
will be spoken of, at greater length, in another chapter.

Among foliage plants, the most popular is the
Coleus. Very striking results can be brought about
by its use. By planting it close together and keeping
the plants cut in closely, solid effects of color can be
obtained. The colors being so varied, and so distinct,
it is much used in carpet bedding in which a set pattern
is worked out.

The Achyranthes and Alternanthera are brilliant
little plants which bear cutting in and trimming well,
and therefore are extensively used in producing “pat-
tern” effects.

The Centaurea has a soft gray leaf, which con-
trasts well with the Coleus, and is used in connection
with it.

Golden Feverfew is also used extensively for
bedding purposes.

All the plants named, except Achyranthes and
Alternanthera, should be set one foot apart. These
should be six inches apart.

Rapid growers must be trimmed frequently to
keep them from getting the start of such kinds as
are of slower growth, in order to produce satisfactory
results in carpet bedding. You want a smooth, even
surface, in which all the colors have a chance to
equally display themselves.

In choosing “designs” do not make the mistake of
selecting intricate or elaborate ones. Leave them to
the professional gardener. Simple effects, depending
largely on broad contrasts of color rather than on
complexity of “pattern” for effectiveness, are much
better adapted to the amateur’s use.

STVONNVY YAHLO GNV SONIOIM Wows ioaaag TVOIdOHI—OS da

PLANTS FOR TROPICAL EFFECT 227

One of the best plants for producing a tropical
effect on the lawn, or in the garden, is the Ricinus, or
Castor oil plant (Fig 56). It can be grown from seed.
It has immense palmate foliage, of a rich green, shaded
with red, with a metallic luster when looked at in the
sun. It grows to be eight or nine feet high, branching
freely. It is excellent for the center of a circular bed.

Another plant with large and striking foliage is
Caladium esculentum. It often has leaves two feet or
more across and four in length when grown in very
rich soil, each leaf being produced on a stalk sent up
from the tuber. Fine for grouping about the Ricinus.

The Canna is a noble plant, with large rich foliage
ranging through various shades of green and bronzy-
red. Some varieties are tall growers, while others are
quite dwarf. In addition to its fine foliage it bears
very brilliant flowers in autumn, somewhat resembling
the Gladiolus in shape and color.

The Musa Enxsete, or Banana Plant, has very large
leaves and is excellent for the center of a circular bed.

If one has a greenhouse, there will be many plants
such as Palms, Pandanus or Screw Pine, Ficus and
others of a similar habit, which can be put out of doors
in summer with advantage to the plants. These can
be used in helping to produce tropical effects.

The Striped Maize—a variegated variety of Corn
—can be used with excellent results if several stalks
are allowed to grow together. Its foliage is very much
like the old “Ribbon Grass,” though of course on a
much larger scale. It should be planted in “hills,” like
the common Corn, one stalk not being sufficient to
bring out the desired effect. As a plant to be used in
the center of a group it is very desirable.

Fine effects are secured by the use of the Ribbon
Grass mentioned in the preceding paragraph, in con-
nection with Cannas and Coleus. Planted about a

228 HOME FLORICULTURE

group of Cannas, with dark scarlet Coleus in front
of it, its green and white coloring comes out with
charming effect.

The Eulalias (Fig 57), and other tall-growing
grasses, ought to be used more extensively in garden-

sida

F
E i
2 |!
RS =
: ce

FIG 57—-THE EULALIA OR ZEBRA GRASS

ing, in combination with other plants. Their habit is so
distinct and graceful that the use of them amone
plants of heavy foliage furnishes a contrast which
hightens the beauty of both. The taller sorts are

EOE EwETETET_——$<=

PLANTS FOR TROPICAL EFFECT 229

extremely effective when used in large clumps, as the
center of a circular bed, surrounded by Caladiums,
Cannas and plants of that character.

The various species of Yucca, or Adam’s Needle,
when planted in picturesque surroundings, produce

FIG 58—yYUCCA FILAMENTOSA IN CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK CITY

highly striking and pleasing effects. The species most
generally used at the North is Yucca filamentosa. It
is perfectly hardy in the Middle States and farther
north. An effective style of planting is shown in
Fig 58.

CHAPTER XLI

TEA ROSES FOR BEDS

No part of my garden affords me more pleasure
than my bed of Tea Roses. I cut dozens of flowers
from it nearly every day from June to the coming of
cold weather, for buttonhole and corsage bouquets,
and for use on the table, and in the parlor. One fine
Rose and a bit of foliage is a bouquet in itself. If I
could have but one bed of flowers it should be a bed
of Tea Roses—and yet, I should want a bed of Pansies
to supplement the Roses; therefore, a bed of each
would be a necessity.

If you want to give a friend a buttonhole nosegay
that shall be “just as pretty as it can be,” you must
have a bed of these Roses to draw from. A half-blown
flower of Meteor, with its velvety, crimson petals, and
a bud of Perle des Jardins, just showing its golden
heart, with a leaf or two of green to set off the flowers
—what a lovely harmony of rich color! Or, if your
taste inclines you to more delicate colors, take a bud
of Luciole, and a Catherine Mermet when its petals are
just falling apart. Nothing can be lovelier, you think,
till you have put a half open Perle des Jardins with
a dark purple or azure-blue Pansy. When you have
done that you are charmed with the manner in which
the two colors harmonize and intensify each other,
and you are sure there was never anything finer for
a flower-lover to feast his eyes on. Put a tawny
Safrano or Sunset bud with a purple Pansy and see
what a royal combination of colors you have in the
simple arrangement. Be sure and have a bed of Tea
Roses, and make combinations to suit yourself.

CATHERINE MERMET

FIG 50—TEA ROSE,

232 HOME FLORICULTURE

In order to make a success of your bed of Tea
Roses—though perhaps I ought to say ever-bloomers,
for probably your selection will include other varieties
than the Tea—you must have a rich soil for them to
grow in. When a branch has borne flowers, it must
be cut back to some strong bud. This bud will, if your
soil is rich enough to encourage vigorous growth, soon
become a branch, and produce flowers. It is by con:
stant cutting back that you secure new growth, if the
soil is in a condition to help it along, and only by
securing this steady production and development of
new branches can you expect many flowers. All
depends on that. If proper treatment is given you
need not be without flowers—unless you cut them all
—from June to October.

I give a list of some of the most desirable varieties
for planting out in summer:

Catherine Mermet (Fig 59), flesh color, with
large flowers and beautiful buds; very sweet; a good
bloomer, and always a favorite.

Cornelia Cook, white; fine in flower, but most
pleasing when buds are just opening; free.

Duchesse de Brabrant, rosy carmine; very fine.

Douglas, velvety crimson; a lovely flower.

Etoile de Lyon, golden yellow flowers, produced
with great freedom ; a superior sort.

Hermosa, bright pink; very full and fragrant; a
constant bloomer ; one of the old standbys.

Marie Guillot, white; delicately tinged with
cream ; exquisite.

La France, hybrid tea; a most lovely flower, of
pale, silvery rose; very large; full and deliciously fra-
grant; one of the most popular of all roses, and
justly so.

Papa Gontier, large flower, with fine buds;
carmine,

TEA ROSES FOR BEDS 233

Safrano, yellow, shaded with apricot; an old rose,
but none the worse for that.

American Beauty, the rose which created such a
furore a few years ago; immense flower; beautiful in
bud and when fully expanded; rich crimson.

Duchess of Edinburgh, intensely rich crimson;
fine.

Madame Welche, yellow, shaded with copper;
fine.

Niphetos, pure white; long, pointed buds; excel-
lent for cutting before the flowers are open.

Perle des Jardins, one of the best; almost as
desirable as Marechal Niel, which it resembles so
closely that it is often sold for it by florists who do
not hesitate to deceive a customer for the sake of
making a sale; large; finely formed; a profuse bloomer
and very sweet.

Meteor, velvety scarlet; very dark, and delight-
fully fragrant.

Sunset, tawny yellow; sweet; a fine rose, resem-
bling Perle des Jardins, from which it is a sport, in
form and habit.

Pierre Guillot, dazzling crimson; very fine; large
flower ; fragrant.

Vicomtesse de Wautier, rose, tinted with yellow;
extra.

Jules Finger, rosy scarlet, shading to crimson;
good bloomer.

Melville, silvery rose.

If I were to name all the desirable varieties I
might fill several pages with the list. Look over the
catalogs of the florists and you will see that the
variety is almost endless. If you do not care to invest
money enough to secure the newer varieties, tell the
dealer to whom you give your patronage what you
want the plants for, and he will make a selection

234 HOME FLORICULTURE

which will include some of the best kinds, and which
will be sure to give you as good satisfaction as you
would get from a selection of your own. Better, in
most instances, for you would make your selection
from the description in the catalog, while he would
select from his knowledge of the merits of the flower.

By all means have a bed of these most sweet and
lovely Roses. If the season happens to be a hot and
dry one, mulch your rose bed with grass clippings
from the lawn. Spread them evenly about the plants,
to a depth of two or three inches, in such a manner
as to cover the entire bed. By so doing, you prevent
rapid evaporation and the roots of the plants are kept
much cooler than when strong sunshine is allowed to
beat down upon the surface of the bed. When the
mulch begins to decay, remove it, and apply fresh
clippings. About the middle of the season, give the
soil a liberal dressing of fine bone meal, working it
in well about the roots of the plants, or, if you can
get it, use old cow manure. Whatever you apply, be
sure it gets where the roots can make use of it.

CHAPTER XLII

THE DAHLIA

Of late years the old, very double Dahlia has
lost something of the popularity it used to enjoy;
not because it is not still considered a most desirable
flower for the garden, but because it has failed so often
to give satisfaction that amateurs have begun to con-
sider it a difficult matter to grow it well. This failure
is attributable more to our hot, dry seasons, several
of which we have had in succession, than to any other
cause, for this flower is fond of moisture at its roots,
and must have it in order to do well, and a hot sun
seems to depress it when the soil it is growing in is
dry. A warm summer suits it well if we have plenty
of wet weather along with the heat. Another cause
of failure is the shortness of our northern season. If
we would have many flowers from it we must give
the plants an early start. If this is not done they
will not come into bloom till late. They will be ready
for the best work of the season about the time frost
comes.

I aim to get my Dahlias well under way in April.
I plant the tubers in good compost, in old boxes, and
in a few days sprouts will start. I am careful to give
them all the fresh air possible to prevent them from
sending up weak and spindling stalks. I put them
out in the sun, on warm days, and give only moderate
amounts of water, aiming to secure a steady, healthy
growth instead of a rapid one. It is not large plants
that you want at planting-out time so much as strong
and vigorous ones. A plant that has been forced to
a too rapid growth will suffer from the change when

236 HOME FLORICULTURE

you come to put it in the open ground, because its
vitality is low, while a strong, sturdy plant will not
seem to mind the change at all.

The Dahlia is a very tender plant, and therefore
easily affected by cold nights and chilly weather. On
this account it ought not to be planted out until you
are sure that there will be no frost at night, and that
the days will be likely to remain warm. A continued
low temperature often seems to injure it almost as
much as a nipping frost. I do not dare put my plants
out before the first of June.

This plant is a great eater. It likes food in
large quantities, and it cannot be too rich. It is also a
great drinker, and in order to secure the best results
food and drink must go together in liberal quantities.

In preparing the garden for it, dig out the soil
where it is to stand to the depth of a foot and a half,
and put a liberal amount of rich manure in the bottom
of the hole. Make the soil in which you set the plants
light and mellow. Water well when you put them
out. If the weather is suitable to their needs, they
will go on growing as if nothing had happened. One
tuber, with a strong stalk attached, is as good as a
half dozen, if not better. It will make a large plant
by midsummer.

As soon as the stalk begins to make rapid growth,
set a stout stake by it, and keep the plant well tied up
to prevent injury from storms and winds. Being
extremely brittle, the stalks are easily broken.

When the plant begins to branch out, begin to give
water at least three times a week. Save all the slops
and wash water. Give each plant enough to soak the
soil thoroughly about its roots. It will be thankful for
anything you give it which contains any element of
plant food, and make rapid development. Grow a
plant in this way and note the difference between it

FIG 60—TYPES OF SINGLE DAHLIAS

238 HOME FLORICULTURE

and plants you have seen “taking their chances” in
a dry season. Under this treatment it will begin to
bloom in July, and you will get large crops of fine
flowers in August and September. You get the start
of the frost.

The Dahlia is divided into five classes. The
“Show” Dahlia is the one most generally cultivated.
The “Bedding” Dahlia is a dwarf variety, growing
only about two feet high, but having flowers quite as
large as those of the tall-growing kinds. The “Bou-
quet” Dahlia has small flowers, as perfect in form as
the large ones. The Single Dahlia (Fig 60), which
is very popular at present, being easier to succeed
with than the double kinds, is very rich in color,
much more graceful in appearance than the double
sorts, which have a good deal of primness about them,
and is very useful for cutting for vases and corsage
bouquets. The fifth class is a comparatively new one,
and has been evolved from the “Cactus” variety which
enjoyed great popularity a few years ago. It is known
as the Decorative Dahlia. Its flowers are of good size,
borne well above the foliage, on long stems. On this
account it is excellent for cut flower use. Most varie-
ties are double or semi-double, but they are never prim
and formal in the arrangement of their petals, like the
old “Show Dahlia.” Because of their more graceful
appearance they are rapidly becoming general favor-
ites. Another point in their favor is they come into
bloom earlier than the older varieties and are therefore
better adapted to garden use. For cutting, they are
extremely popular, because of their rich coloring,
graceful habit and lasting qualities. Where large
flowers are desirable, they are unexcelled in the decora-
tion of rooms, as their strong colors bring them out
prominently against whatever is used as a background.

THE DAHLIA 239

If sheets are thrown over the plants in fall, when
frosty nights come, the season of blooming can be
prolonged considerably, for they will go on flowering
till killed. The cool weather of autumn gives us some
very fine flowers from the Dahlia.

After a frost has turned the tops of the plants
black cut them off, and on a sunny, warm day lift the
roots, and let them lie in the sunshine till the earth
will crumble from them readily. Cover at night, but
expose to the effects of the sun again next day.
Repeat this for two or three days, then store away in
the cellar where they will keep cool and dry. They
can be kept safely where a Potato winters well.

It is hardly worth while to give a list of desirable
sorts in a book like this, as new ones are being
added each year, and old ones are being dropped, as
newcomers supplant them in merit. Consult the cata-
logs of the florists, and select to suit your taste, in
regard to color and class. But—be sure to have at
least half a dozen of them, if you want your garden
beautiful after the annuals have completed their work
for the season. Typical forms of double Dahlias are
seen in Fig 61.

rn val a
are Pa ' K/, ees
A, YY ons - E> "

si a ual
fie \
LEG et

FIG OI—TYPES OF DOUBLE DAHLIAS

CHAPTER XLIII

THE TUBEROSE AND GLADIOLUS

The Tuberose is a lovely fall-blooming plant,
but it is seldom seen growing in the garden, for
the idea prevails that it cannot be grown there suc-
cessfully, at least by the amateur. This is not true. It
can easily be grown there if given proper culture.

It is a plant which requires a longer season than
most other plants of its class. If planted out in June,
or at the coming of really warm weather, it will not
mature its flowers before late in September, and by
that time we are pretty sure to have frosts which will
kill it, as it is very tender. The proper thing to do,
then, to bring it to perfection, is to give it an early start
in spring, thus extending the season and giving it all
the time it needs.

Get your bulbs as early as possible, and as soon
as received plant them in small pots, in a light, sandy
compost. Water well at planting, and keep in a
warm place till they begin to grow. Then remove to
a sunny window, and be careful about giving too much
water. In June turn them out of their pots without
disturbing the roots, and plant in a rich, light, sandy
soil having a warm, sunny exposure. Treated in this
manner Tuberoses will come into bloom early in
September, if your bulbs are strong and sound. As
a bulb blooms but once, be sure that you get good,
blooming bulbs. Of course you can’t tell about this
by the looks of the bulb, but if you buy of a reliable
dealer—and you should patronize no other—you can
safely trust to his honesty to send you what you want.

Before planting your Tuberoses take a sharp knife
and cut off the mass of old, dried roots at the base

FIG 62—THE PEARL TUBEROSE

THE TUBEROSE AND GLADIOLUS 243

of the bulb. Cut off close to the solid portions. They
will start a great deal sooner if you do this, and be
much surer to make fine plants. If this is not done
quite often the old roots decay and communicate
disease to the bulb. Most persons are familiar with
this flower from having seen it in cut flower work from
the florists, who raise it extensively. Its blossoms are
thick and waxy in texture, ivory white in color, and
exquisitely fragrant. The flowers are double, and are
produced in spikes about a foot in length, on stalks
about three feet tall. The best variety is the Pearl, a
spike of which is seen in Fig 62.

The Gladiolus

This is the best of all the summer-flowering bulbs,
all things considered. It is to the amateur’s garden
what the Geranium is to his window. It is a flower
anybody can grow, and it is lovely enough to satisfy
the most exacting. You can have it in the most
delicate colors if your taste runs in that direction, and
you can have it in colors of extreme brilliancy if such
colors are your preference. It is something you can
depend on to do well if you give it half a chance. But
the better you care for it the better it will do, and it
pays to give it liberal treatment.

Of late much attention has been given this flower
by the florists, and great improvement has resulted.
The size of the flower has been increased, its colors
intensified, and new markings and combinations of
colors of wonderful beauty have rewarded the skillful
hybridizer. It deserves a place in every collection.

It likes a soil that is light, mellow and rich. Any
soil in which Corn will grow well suits it. And it
likes to be planted in the open ground about the time
Corn is planted. That is early enough. If you have
bulbs enough to warrant you in doing so, hold back

244 HOME FLORICULTURE

some for planting about two weeks later. By making
successive plantings you can prolong the season for a
month or more, thus securing fully two months’ dis-
play of beauty from this charming flower.

I prefer to plant the bulbs in clumps or masses.
In this way a much better effect is secured than by
planting singly. Try it once and you will never care
to plant bulbs alone, or in rows again.

Something should be given to support the flower
stalks when they appear. When planted in clumps,
half a dozen bulbs to a clump, three stakes can be set
to which a hoop of wire can be fastened. By passing
strings back and forth among the stakes, and fastening
them to the wire, all the support needed will be given,
and the wire and strings used will not be so obtrusive
as to be unsightly. This method of support is much
preferable to tying the stalks to sticks, as it allows
them to have plenty of freedom, thus preventing that
stiff effect which always results from tying up
each stalk.

One might suppose, from the great popularity of
this flower, that it would be expensive. Such is not
the case, however. It can be bought very cheaply.
Seedling collections are offered at very low prices, and
from them you will obtain many flowers quite as fine
as any of the named varieties. Some of the latter
cost three, four and five dollars each. This amount
of money invested in seedlings will get bulbs enough
to fill a large bed. If you want certain colors you
will have to buy the named bulbs in order to be
sure of getting what you want, but for general pur-
poses the cheaper bulbs are quite as good.

There seems to be no limit to the range and variety
of colors. Rose, scarlet, crimson, lilac, violet, cherry,
yellow, white—and all these so combined in such a
manner as to give you a fl)wer rivaling an Orchid in

THE TUBEROSE AND GLADIOLUS 245

superb coloring and delicacy of texture. For there
is nothing coarse about the Gladiolus. It has all the
delicacy of the Lily combined with the magnificence
of color peculiar to the most brilliant and showy
tropical plants.

Nothing is finer for cutting for vases. The flow-
ers last for days, and buds develop into blossoms after
being cut.

After frost comes take up the bulbs and lay them
in the sun till the earth is dry enough to be shaken
from them. Then cut off the flower stalk, leaving
about six inches of it attached to the bulb. If cut closer
the bulb may rot before it becomes dry enough to go
into winter quarters. In December put in the cellar
if it is a dry one, if not, store in some room free from
frost and moisture.

This bulb increases rapidly. If you invest a dollar
or two in bulbs this season you will have quite a stock
of them in fali, when you come to dig them, and from
these, planted next spring, you will obtain all you care
to use, and very likely more. If so, it will afford
you a great deal of pleasure, doubtless, to share them
with your flower loving friends who may not be so
fortunate as you are. Fig 63 shows flower spikes of
some of the best types.

TYPES OF IMPROVED GLADIOLUS

FIG 63

CHAPTER XLIV

HARDY BORDER PLANTS

Very many persons are fond of flowers who have
but little time to devote to their culture. It is a fact
that cannot be denied that the cultivation of annuals
requires a good deal of hard labor, and that much time
must be devoted to the garden if you would have it
what it ought to be. These persons would do well to
devote their attention to hardy border plants. Once
established, these plants are good for years, and they
will require less attention each year than any other
class of flowers. In spring they should be dug about,
to keep the grass from crowding them out. Manure
should be worked in about them, and about every other
season their roots should be divided. This constitutes
pretty much all the care they require. While they do
not bloom all through the season as most annuals do,
they give a most profuse crop in summer, and many
of them are extremely beautiful.

The following are among the best:

Aquilegia—Known as Columbine in some locali-
ties; in others as Honeysuckle; very beautiful in form
and habit, and equally so in color; some varieties are
blue, others yellow, scarlet and white, while some com-
bine these colors in beautiful contrast ; some are single,
others double; an early bloomer, and very desirable.

Campanula—This is the well-known and _ ever-
popular Canterbury Bell; color blue and white; fine.

Carnation—The garden variety of this most beau-
tiful flower is quite equal to the popular greenhouse
class; it has large, perfect flowers of most beautiful
coloring, and is delightfully fragrant; it is almost as

248 HOME FLORICULTURE

great a favorite as the Rose; no garden ought to be
without several plants of it; it comes in all shades of
red and rose, while many varieties have stripes and
flakes of these colors on white or yellow ground.

Delphintum—The Perennial Larkspur; one of our
best border plants. It grows to a hight of four or five
feet, therefore is well adapted to back rows, and for
growing along fences. D. formosum is a most brilliant
blue, intense in tone and very effective. Other varie-
ties are scarlet, white and pink. When grown in
masses it produces a magnificent show of color. You
cannot afford to be without it.

Digitalis—Better known as Foxglove; a stately
plant, producing racemes of flowers two feet in length,
thimble-shaped, and prettily spotted; purple and
white.

Hollyhock—lf we have a better border plant than
this, for general use, I would like to know what it is.
It combines stateliness of growth, beauty of color and
form, profusion of bloom, and ease of culture te an
extent seldom found in one plant. For large groups
in prominent places, for backgrounds, and for com-
bination with other plants of large growth, whose
colors require something in the way of contrast, it is
unexcelled. A group of the lemon-yellow varieties and
the blue Delphiniums produces a most striking effect.
In the newer strains we have scarlet, maroon, pure
white, rose, yellow, purple and almost black flowers,
as double as Cabbage Roses, with a delicacy of texture
quite unknown among the old single varieties. The
newer kinds are not such tall growers as the old ones,
but reach a hight of four to five feet. A row of them,
planted in the background of lower-growing plants, is
always sure to be admired. Be sure—be very sure—to
have at least a dozen or more plants of the Hollyhock.
The more the better, if you have room for them. A

FIG 64—THE ALLEGHENY HOLLYHOCK

250 HOME FLORICULTURE

new strain of Hollyhock has recently been introduced.
It is known as the Allegheny (Fig 64), and has
semi-double flowers, with crimped or ruffled petals.
It is rapidly becoming popular and deserves special
mention.

Perennial Pea—This plant has large clusters of
rose-colored flowers, of the true Pea shape; a climber,
it dies to the ground each season, but starts early in
spring and makes a strong growth; very useful where
a climbing plant is required.

Iris—This is one of the most beautiful plants on
the list; its colors are exceedingly rich, but delicate,
and the texture of its petals puts you in mind of frost ;
a strong-growing plant, very profuse in bloom. Plant
some of the pale yellow varieties alongside the lovely
blue sorts and note what an exquisite effect is secured.
There are many species and varieties. The most showy
ones are the Japanese, seen in Fig 65.

Anemone—This is a late fall-bloomer, therefore
very desirable; there are two varieties, and both should
be grown; alba, pure white, and rubra, red; very fine.

Dicentra—Sometimes called Bleeding Heart; a
charming and graceful plant; it has fine, fern-like
foliage, above which it throws its long, arching stems
laden with pendulous pink and white flowers; very
desirable.

Paeony—Old favories everywhere, because of
their great crops of large and beautifully colored
flowers. Scatter them about in the border; early
bloomers; many varieties are delightfully fragrant.
The flower and foliage of the Fine-leaved Paeony are
shown in Fig 66.

Rudbeckia (“Golden Glow’?)—One of the most
meritorious plants of recent introduction. Hardy as a
Lilac. Grows well in any soil. Blooms in August and
September, with such profusion that clumps of it, seen

EC Clee SS ee

FIG O5—TYPES OF JAPANESE IRIS

252 TOME FLORICULTURE

from a little distance, appear a solid mass of the richest
golden yellow. The flowers are about the size of
those of the Decorative Dahlia, and they resemble them
so much in form and general appearance that they
are sometimes mistaken for them. This Rudbeckia
deserves a place in every garden. No other hardy
plant equals it in brilliance of color. It is excellent for
cutting, as the flowers are borne on long, slender stems.
They last for a long time after being cut. They equal
the new Asters in this respect.

FIG 66—FINE-LEAVED PAEONY

Perennial Phlox—This is, among border plants,
what the Geranium is among window plants, or the
Lilac among shrubs. It is of the easiest possible culture.
Anyone can grow it, in almost any kind of soil, except
pure sand. It produces enormous clusters of flowers,
in crimson, carmine, scarlet, rose, purple, violet,
mative, magenta and pure white. Some varieties have
stripes of contrasting color. Others an eye of white

HARDY BORDER PLANTS 253

ona colored ground, or one of color on a white ground.
Planted in groups, with due regard to color harmony,
most magnificent effects can be secured by it. The
lilacs, mauves and magentas should never be used in
combination with the scarlets or crimsons, as they do
not harmonize in the least. Planted together, they
produce a discordant effect, but when used apart and
in combination with the white varieties, all are lovely.

Coreopsis lanceolata—A low-growing plant with
bright yellow flowers. Very hardy and free flowering,
and an all-the-season bloomer. Excellent for front
rows in the border,

If Hollyhocks, or other border plants are attacked
with what is generally termed “rust,” because of the
rusty, brown appearance of the foliage, apply Bordeaux
mixture, promptly and liberally. Unless something is
done to counteract the effect of this disease—for it is
a disease of bacterial nature—the plants attacked by
it will soon be severely injured, or killed outright, and
it will spread to others until the whole garden is
involved.

CHAPTER XLV

SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS

Nothing in the garden gives more satisfaction
than a bed of bulbs, because they give us flowers long
before we can expect any from other plants, with the
exception of some of the very early shrubs. The
Snowdrop and Crocus bloom almost as soon as the
snow is gone, followed closely by the Hyacinth and
later by the Narcissus and Tulip. Bulbs enough to
fill quite a bed will not cost much. The money invested
in them is slight, but the pleasure afforded by them is
not to be reckoned in dollars and cents.

The time to plant these bulbs is in the fall, for, if
put out early in the season, or at any time between
the last of September and middle of November, they
have a chance to become established before severe win-
ter weather sets in, and are ready for the season’s work
when spring comes. From the last of September to
the middle of October is probably a better time for
doing this work than later, because the ground is
generally warmer and drier then than afterward, and
can be worked more thoroughly; but any time in the
fall will do if the bulbs are kept in good condition,
and the ground is not frozen.

In making beds for bulbs two things are of the
greatest importance. These are:

First—tich soil.

Second—good drainage.

If the soil is heavy or compact make it light by
stirring it well before you plant your bulbs in it.
Spade it up and mix manure with it thoroughly. The
finer and mellower it is the better flowers you will have.
If the soil is clay, add loam and sand, then manure.

SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 255

The best fertilizer for bulbs is that which can be
obtained from old yards where cow manure has been
thrown out and suffered to lie till it has become rotten.
It will be black and friable, and can be thoroughly
incorporated with the soil. If you can get nothing
but fresh, manure you would do well to go without
any, for I know of no bulb which will do well where
it is used. It induces unhealthiness and decay.

Bulbs will not do well in a soil in which water
is allowed to stand. Depend on that, and act accord-
ingly. If your bed is low, and water is retained about
the roots in spring, you may get one tolerably good
crop of flowers, but the following year you will get few
flowers, if any, and these will be inferior, and the
plants will have an unhealthy appearance. Examina-
tion will show you that the bulbs are diseased. There-
fore drain your beds well if they have not good drain-
age naturally. This is easily done by digging out the
soil to the depth of a foot or two and filling in with
several inches of stone, old cans, bricks, anything and
everything which will hold up the soil when you
return that which has been thrown out, and keep it
from settling down into a hard, compact mass in the
bottom of the bed. Putting in this material will raise
the bed to a hight which will enable it to shed most
of the water from melting snows and early rains, and
what percolates through the soil will pass off among
the crevices below, and thus away from the roots
of the bulbs.

The best bulbs for bedding, because the hardiest,
are Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses and Snowdrops.

I would not advise mixing different kinds in the
same bed. A bed for each kind, by itself, will be
found most satisfactory.

There are several varieties of the Tulip. Some
are very early, others a month later; some are single,

250 HOME FLORICULTURE

others double; some are low growers, while others
reach a hight of twelve to sixteen inches. You can
find out all you want to know about the habits of
the plants by reading the catalogs carefully. You will
also find in them valuable hints which it is unnecessary
to give here about making selections and, planting.
This flower has an almost unlimited variety of colors,
and these colors are of the richest, ranging from pure
white and palest yellow to dark crimson, brilliant
scarlet, maroon, royal purple and rose, with combi-
nations of several of these colors in some varieties of
flaked flowers. The Parrot Tulips are exceedingly
gay, having petals of brilliant coloring, feathered and
fringed, with light colors on a dark ground, or wice
versa. A Tulip bed is a most gorgeous sight when in
full bloom, and happy is the possessor of one. The
principal types of Tulips are shown in Fig 67.

The Hyacinths come in more delicate colors, but
they are very fine and rich. You can suit your taste
as to double or single flowers. I prefer the single
sorts, because the flowers are not so crowded on the
stalk, therefore they have a more graceful appearance.
But you will want some of both. This flower possesses
a delightful fragrance.

The Narcissus is a most charming flower and no
garden can afford to be without it. Some varieties
have small flowers, others large. The small-flowered
section make up in quantity what they lack in size.
All are exquisitely beautiful. The colors are rich
golden yellow, a pale sulphur yellow, cream and
pure white. Some are single, some double. A group
of them lights up the garden in spring like a burst
of sunshine. One of the finest spring blooming bulbs
we have. The flowers are deliciously fragrant, and
excellent for cutting, keeping a long time in the house.

The Scilla is a charming little blue flower, bloom-

SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 257

ing with the Snowdrops, when the ground is not yet
free from snow. These, with the Crocus, should be

FIG 67—TYPES OF TULIPS

planted in clumps along the paths, and scattered about
without any attempt at “arrangement.” By planting

258 HOME FLORICULTURE

them in a bed of formal design you spoil the effect of
them. You want them where you will “happen upon
them,” and not in a bed.

Be sure to dot the border, or row of herbaceous
plants, with bulbs. They will brighten it charmingly
before the other plants begin to grow much.

It is not necessary to take up your bulbs each
season, as some seem to think. I prefer to let them
remain undisturbed for two or three years. Then
I lift them after the foliage has ripened, and divide
them, storing them away until fall, when they are
reset in new beds. The beds where bulbs grow can
be utilized for annuals without making it necessary
to disturb the bulbs, which will have completed their
flowering before it is time to put out the annuals.
The soil can be stirred with a rake, taking care not
to let the rake teeth penetrate far enough to come
in contact with the bulbs.

The bulb bed should be covered in fall with litter
from the barnyard, or leaves, to the depth of eight
inches or a foot. Remove in spring before the bulbs
begin to grow. If left on too long, they will send up
their stalks through it, and being tender, they will be
broken when you come to take it from the bed.

CHAPTER XLVI

HARDY ROSES

The ideal garden has many Roses in it. Roses
here and there, and everywhere. There cannot be too
many of them. Indeed, to the lover of this most lovely
of all flowers there can never be enough, though per-
haps the Californian may have a surfeit of them. A
lady wrote me last summer about a Marechal Niel
which clambered up to the eaves of a two-story house,
from which she had often cut a bushel basket full of
flowers without being able to note the loss of one.
Think of that, and long for Paradise in southern
California, oh lover of this lovely Rose which we often
fail to get a dozen flowers from in our greenhouses
in the course of a whole season!

Roses must be given a very rich soil if you want
them to do their best, and we ought to be satisfied
with nothing less. They will bloom well, compara-
tively speaking, in an ordinary soil, but you never
know what they are capable of doing until you give
them a bed in which plenty of old, strong manure
is worked. Treat a bush which has been giving you
flowers of ordinary size and color to such a fertilizer
and you will be surprised to note the difference in
growth, foliage, size and richness of color of the
flowers.

The Rose likes a somewhat heavy soil. It prefers
a clayey loam to a sandy loam. Its roots are strong,
and it seems to want a soil in which it itself can
intrench firmly. If the location selected for your
Rose bed is not naturally well drained, see that it is
made so. Dig out the soil to the depth of two feet,

200 HOME FLORICULTURE

and put in a lot of such rubbish as accumulates about
all houses to act as drainage material. It may not
sound very poetical, but I would advise utilizing old
boots and shoes, bones, etc, in this way. They not only
answer the direct purpose for which you use them,
but they will decay and furnish an element of plant
food which the Rose will make good use of. Then
get plenty of old, black, friable cow manure and mix
it well with the soil thrown out of the bed. You can
scarcely give too much. Old chip dirt is excellent, also.
In such a soil you may expect your Roses to do great
things. And they will not disappoint you if you give
them proper attention in other respects, which you will
do, of course, if you are as much of a lover of this
flower as you ought to be.

Among the older varieties of Rose, the best are
the Provence, the Damask and the Cabbage—all pop-
ular, and all good, and well worth a place in the most
aristocratic garden alongside the new candidates for
favor. In addition to these, I would advise the follow-
ing as being especially desirable among the hardy, June
blooming kinds:

Harrison’s Yellow, a Rose of exceedingly rich
color, not very double, but bearing enormous quan-
tities of flowers, and as hardy as the Lilac; leaves
generally with nine leaflets.

The Persian Yellow is of a much deeper hue than
the preceding, and more double, nearly full. It is of
feebler growth, and is best when grown on the stock
of the Dog Rose or the Manetti. The foliage is small,
leaves with seven leaflets, with Sweetbrier scent.

George the Fourth, a rich crimson-scarlet flower,
very double and delightfully fragrant; a free bloomer,
and good grower; one of the best. It is hard to find
it among the rose growers, but it is well worth seek-
ing for.

HARDY ROSES 261

Madame Plantier, pure white, blooming in
clusters; a rather small flower, but very beautiful;
excellent for cemetery use.

The popular class of Roses to-day is the Hybrid
Perpetual. The name is somewhat misleading. None
of this class can truly be called perpetual bloomers.
But they can be made to give us flowers through a
good share of the season, with proper treatment, but
there will be but one profuse crop of them. This
will come in June and July. If, after having given
this crop, the shoots are cut back well, and the soil
is made very rich to encourage a fresh and vigorous
growth, new branches will be put forth, and these
will almost always produce some good flowers until
quite late in the season. Unless this treatment is
given you will get very few blossoms from them
after July.

Among the most desirable kinds of this class, I
would name the following:

Alfred Colomb, red, shading into carmine; large
and fine.

Baron de Bonstetten, dark crimson, with velvety
texture of petal; a magnificent variety.

Baronne Prevost, large flower, of clear, bright
pink.

Baroness Rothschild, rich rose color with a luster
like satin ; cup-shaped ; exquisite.

Fisher Holmes, crimson; very double.

Gen Jacqueminot, intense crimson, shading to
scarlet; velvety in texture; superb in all ways; one of
the most popular of all Roses, and well deserving its
popularity.

Madame Victor Verdier, carmine; full, large,
globular flower.

Marie Baumann, vermilion shaded with dark
scarlet ; extra fine.

262 HOME FLORICULTURE

Paul Neyron, one of the largest of all Roses;
rich, satiny rose color.

Perfection des Blanches, one of the most prolific
and late bloomers ; white, very sweet.

Prince Camille de Rohan, velvety crimson shaded
with maroon; large, double and sweet.

Vick’s Caprice, a soft, satiny pink, distinctly
striped and dashed with white and carmine; especially
beautiful in the partly opened bud.

Victor Verdier, bright rose.

Of course every collection must include some of
the Moss Rose section. The following varieties are
among the best:

Blanche Moreau, white.

Henri Martin, red.

Luxembourg, scarlet.

Princess Adelaide, pink.

Raphael, white tinged with pink.

Salet, rosy red.

Then, too, you will want some of the climbers.
These are good:

Baltimore Belle, blush white.

Gem of the Prairies, bright crimson.

Queen of the Prairies, dark rose color; one of
the best of the climbing sorts.

The Ramblers are recent additions to the great
Rose family, but they have proved to be so useful
that we cannot afford to overlook them. While not
as fine as most other varieties, when the individual
flower is considered, their wonderful profusion of
bloom, rampant growth, and adaptability for group-
ing, or using as screens or coverings for fences and
outbuildings make them necessities in every up-to-date
garden. A fine specimen of Crimson Rambler is
shown in Fig 68.

The Hybrid Perpetuals will have to be laid down

HARDY ROSES 263

and covered in fall. The climbers ought also to have
protection. The other varieties will stand our northern
winters quite well without protection, but they will

do so much better if it is given that I would always
advise giving it. In preparing Roses for winter, I
heap earth about the base of the plant, and over this

FIG 68—CRIMSUN RAMBLER ROSE

204 HOME FLORICULTURE

I bend the stalks until they touch the ground. If
bent squarely over the stiff stalks often snap off, or
split, but the heap of earth makes it easy to bend them
in a curve, which prevents accidents of this sort.
Lay sods on the branches to hold them down and cover
with leaves or litter to the depth of five or six inches.
In spring, when the plants are uncovered and lifted,
cut back well.

CHAPTER XLVII

VINES

Nothing gives a more graceful finish to the porch
or veranda than the vine you train up its posts and
along its eaves. No house is what it ought to be,
in the sense of the beautiful, without some vine trained
about its windows and up its walls to break up all
stiffness of outline and soften the effect of broad sur-
faces of painted wood.

One of the best vines we have is, I am glad to
say, a native plant. I am always proud to read of
the popularity of the Ampelopsis abroad. It is a rapid
grower, has beautiful foliage at all times, and espe-
cially so in autumn, when it takes on its rich crimson
and scarlet and maroon colors, and is so hardy that
the severest weather fails to injure it in the least. It
is to America what the Ivy is to England. It is quite
as beautiful, in a different way. It clings to smooth
surfaces by means of little discs at the end of its
tendrils.

Ampelopsis Veitchii comes to us from Japan. It
has smaller foliage than our native species and is not
so rampant a grower. It forms a dense mass of
foliage. It is a charming plant, but really not so
desirable as the American species.

Akebia quinata is a Japanese vine with very pretty
foliage, and brownish flowers. It is a rapid grower.

Aristolochia, or Dutchman’s Pipe, is a very rapid
grower, perfectly hardy, with immense leaves, and
flowers of peculiar shape, somewhat resembling the
old-fashioned German pipe. Hence its common name.

The Bignonia is one of our most desirable climb-
ing plants. It has beautiful foliage of a rich, bright,

266 HOME FLORICULTURE

glossy green. Its flowers are tubular in form, borne
in clusters, and of a brilliant orange-scarlet.

The Honeysuckle is a prime favorite, as it well
deserves to be. It is beautiful in foliage and flower,
hardy, a most profuse bloomer, and something that
everybody can grow with very little trouble. The fol-
lowing varieties are all excellent:

Halleana, pure white flowers, changing to yellow ;
fragrant.

Scarlet Trumpet, constant bloomer ; flowers scar-
let outside, with yellow lining.

Japan Golden-veined, small leaves, covered with a
network of bright yellow; flowers white and fragrant.

Celastrus scandens. This is our Bittersweet,
another native of great merit. It has bright green
foliage produced in great profusion. Its flowers are
inconspicuous, but they are succeeded by clusters of
berries. These berries are inclosed in orange capsules,
which burst and turn back, exposing the red fruit
within. The berries are quite as ornamental as flow-
ers. A clean, strong growing plant, very useful for
training over old trees.

Perhaps the most popular of all climbing plants
just at present is the Clematis. It is really a magnifi-
cent plant. It grows with wonderful rapidity. It
blooms with the greatest profusion. It is rich in color.
It is hardy. Having all these good qualities it ought
to be popular.

The following are among the most desirable
varieties :

C. paniculata grandiflora—A comparatively new
variety, but one of the most meritorious members
of the family. Flowers small, but borne in such pro-
fusion, all over the plant, that it has the appearance
of being covered with snow. Color, white. Fra-
grant. Foliage, rich dark green. Especially valuable

VINES 267
because of its late-flowering habit. Blooms until
cold weather. One of our very best vines, if not
the best.

Jackmanii, flowers of violet-blue, five or six inches
across ; a charming plant for training on screens, trel-
lises and lattice.

Lanuginosa candida, very similar to Jackmanii in
all but color; being white, it can be used to fine
advantage with that variety, the contrast in the color
of their flowers being very fine.

Countess Lovelace, double, lilac.

Duchess of Edinburgh, double white; free
bloomer and fragrant.

Venus Victrix, pale lavender ; double; very fine.

Coccinea, scarlet; quite unlike the other varieties
named, the flower being somewhat bell-shaped.

Virginiana—This is a native, known in some parts
of the country as Virgin’s Bower; in other sections.
as Traveler’s Joy. It is exquisitely beautiful. Its
flowers are produced in wonderful profusion. They
are small, but are borne in large; branching clusters,
pure white in color, and fringe-like in appearance. A
plant, when in bloom, seems to be covered with newly-
fallen snowflakes. One of the best plants in the whole
list for growing about verandas and porches.

The Clematis dies down to within a foot or
two of the ground each season, but sends up new
stalks in spring, which make an exceedingly rapid
growth,

The Wistaria is one of our most satisfactory
climbing plants after it becomes well established.
During the first four or five years of its existence I
find that it must be laid down and covered during
winter at the North. If this is not done, a large
proportion of the season’s growth will be killed.
After a few years it seems to acquire hardiness, and

268 HOME FLORICULTURE

can be left on the trellis, or whatever it is trained to.
It is a lovely plant when well grown. It will clamber
to the eaves of a two-story house, and in early sum-
mer its branches will be laden with long racemes of
beautiful flowers of purple-blue and white.

CHAPTER XLVIII

LILIES

Every garden should have at least a half dozen
choice Lilies. Next to the Rose, this flower stands
pre-eminent for beauty among the garden’s favorites,
and no collection can afford to be without it.

Most kinds adapted to general culture can easily
de grown by the amateur, provided he can give them a
well drained location, and a deep, mellow soil. If it
contains considerable sand, all the better, for a sandy
soil means a soil not unduly retentive of moisture in
spring. Nothing injures the Lily more than stagnant
water about its roots, except the use of fresh manure.
To apply this to Lilies, under the impression that it will
benefit them, is one of the greatest mistakes that can
be made by the amateur. If it comes in contact with
them, it almost invariably brings on a diseased con-
dition which speedily results in death. The only ma-
nure safe to use among Lilies is very old, thoroughly
rotten cow manure—so old and decayed that it crum-
bles readily under the application of the hoe. This,
mixed with a loamy soil from which the water from
melting snows and spring rains drains rapidly, makes
an ideal fertilizer for this class of plants.

Lilies should be planted from eight to ten inches
below the soil, and they should be covered in fall with
litter, or leaves, or some other similar material, to the
depth of at least a foot. Unless this is done, frost will
penetrate the earth about them, and, by its expan-
sive action, so wrench the plants from their places
that their roots will be injured or broken off altogether.
When this is done, failure is to be looked for. But

270 HOME FLORICULTURE

such injury can be prevented by deep covering, com-
bined with deep planting. If you were to ask me the
two things of greatest importance in Lily-growing,
I would answer, protection from the action of frost
in winter, and thorough drainage.

In planting Lilies, I would advise putting sand
immediately about each bulb. This is not absolutely
necessary, but it is advisable in most soils, as sand is
almost wholly devoid of vegetable matter, for which
most garden varieties seem to have little liking. An
old gardener once told me that it was an easy matter
to kill a Lily by planting it in muck or leaf mold.
I think he overestimated the danger, but I have
always seen the finest Lilies growing in soils free from
decaying vegetation.

The following kinds are among the best for the
amateur:

Auratum, the “Gold-Banded Lily.” One of the
most magnificent ornaments of the garden, when well
grown. Its flowers are often eight inches across.
They are pure white, as to ground color, with red
spots on each thick, waxen petal, and a gold band
running from tip to calyx. (Fig 69.)

Brownii. A superb species, with large, trumpet-
shaped flowers, pure white inside, and purple without.

Excelsum. Apricot yellow. A stately plant.
Fine for grouping.

Rubrum, red.

Album, pure white.

Speciosum, extremely beautiful. There are many
varieties, the most distinct of which are album, rubrum
and roseum.

Candidum, an old species, but quite as desirable
as any of the newer sorts. White, and delightfully
fragrant.

Tigrinum, or “Tiger Lily,’

’

another old favorite,

FIG 00—THE GOLDEN-BANDED LILY

272 HOME FLORICULTURE

orange-yellow, thickly spotted with brown. Very
hardy and floriferous.

Umbellatum, tawny yellow, with upright flowers.
Long, Amaryllis-like foliage. Fine for masses. Will
grow anywhere. One of the sorts that stand all kinds
of neglect and abuse, and look cheerful under it.

Some of our native species are well worth a place
in the garden, foremost among which Liliwn super-
bum, our common Swamp Lily. It grows from six
to eight feet high on an average, with four to twelve
orange-red flowers on each stalk. It is a splendid
plant to grow among shrubbery.

——

CHAPTER XLIX

SHRUBS, AND HOW TO PLANT THEM

The owner of a yard, no matter how small it may
be, ought to do something toward developing its pos-
sibilities. There may be room for only a shrub or two,
but this is no reason why the place should be neg-
lected. Plant what you have room for. Do what you
can to make the place attractive, and the home spirit
will do its share in beautifying the spot. The more
attention we give the home the more we find in it to
love and to work for.

Every place ought to have at least a few shrubs,
because to a great extent, especially in our villages
and cities, they must take the place of trees. They
have a dignity which the smaller, hardy herbaceous
plant does not possess.

As a general thing they grow into symmetrical
shape without much pruning. Many of them have the
merit of bloaming quite early in the season. All that
I shall make mention of in this article are hardy, and
all of them can be grown with reasonable certainty
of success by anyone who will follow the directions
I shall give in planting and caring for them. One
strong argument in favor of shrubs is, they are good
for years after becoming well established.

In planting the lawn to shrubs, let me caution
you to not make the mistake of putting them too close
together. They are small when first put out, there-
fore they make but little show, and we get the im-
pression that a good many are needed, and we set them
a few feet apart—possibly ten, but generally less—and
the result is that in two or three years we have a mass

274 HOME . FLORICULTURE

of bushes in which all individuality is lost, and when
shrubs “run together’ in this way, their dignity is
destroyed. To guard against this almost universal
mistake, we must take a look ahead. Think what the
proportions of the shrub will be when it has fully
developed, and plant accordingly, always keeping in
mind the fact that there ought to be ample space be-
tween. If you haven't room for more than one, have
one only. One good one, planted in such a manner
as to display itself effectively, will afford a great deal
more satisfaction than several inferior ones, such as
you may make sure of having if you plant more than
you have room for.

The next thing to do after getting your shrubs
and deciding where they shall be planted, is to get the
ground in proper shape for their reception. Some take
a spade and dig a hole a foot square and about the
same in depth, crowd the roots of the shrub into it,
shovel in clods of the soil thrown out, tramp them
down, and call the job done. This is all wrong, and
the man who does it will have, as he deserves to, a
miserable apology for a shrub.

In the first place, make the hole large enough to
accommodate the roots without cramping. In the
second place, work the soil over until there isn’t a clod
or lump in it, mixing in, as you do this, some old,
well-rotted manure. Shrubs have to eat, like other
plants, and you must feed them well if you want them
to do well. Then set the shrub in the hole dug to
receive it, spreading its roots out evenly and naturally.
Scatter soil over them, and then, by lifting the plant
gently and shaking it a little, work this soil down
among the roots. After filling in enough to cover all
the roots, apply at least a pailful of water. This will
settle the soil firmly about the roots. Then heap the
rest of the soil abont the base of the shrub.

SHRUBS, AND HOW TO PLANT THEM 275

There are so many excellent shrubs that it is a
difficult matter to select the best. Among the ironclad
sorts | know of nothing superior to the Lilac. It re-
quires very little care, grows rapidly, blooms with
great freedom early in the season, and is healthy and
long lived. There are several double varieties on the
market which deserve especial attention. If in doubt
as to what to plant, decide on a Lilac and you will not
regret it.

The Japan Quince is a fine shrub of low, compact
habit, with glossy foliage, and intensely rich scarlet
flowers, produced very early in the season. It makes
an excellent hedge.

The Weigelias are favorites everywhere. They
develop into large bushes, and every branch will be
literally loaded down in June and July with flowers
in various shades of red, rose and white.

One of the most charming shrubs I know of is
the Double Flowering Plum, cataloged as Prunus
triloba. It makes a bush about four feet in hight and
five or six feet across, with many graceful branches
which in May and June are perfect wreaths of bloom,
like those of the old Flowering Almond. The flowers
of this Plum are pink and white, quite double, and like
miniature Roses in shape.

Of course, you will want some Roses. The Ram-
blers are proving hardy enough to stand our northern
winters, if laid down in fall and covered well. They
are beautiful things when full of flowers. To secure
the best effect from them, plant several in a group.

For late blooming, Hydrangea paniculata grandi-
flora is perhaps our best shrub. This, like the Ram-
bler Roses, is most effective when grouped. (Fig 7o.

The Flowering Currant is an excellent shrub.
It is always graceful without pruning. It blooms
with wonderful profusion early in the season, having

276 HOME FLORICULTURE

thousands of soft yellow, very fragrant flowers. In
fall, its foliage turns to gold and crimson, and again
the bush is as attractive as in spring.

The Daphne Cneorum is a very charming little
shrub, suitable for a location near the path or house,
as it never grows tall enough to get in the way. It
bears clusters of bright pink flowers, which are de-

FIG 70—GROUP OF THE HARDY HYDRANGEA

lightfully fragrant. It flowers at intervals all through
the season. Well deserving a place in all gardens.

The Flowering Almond has lost some of its old
popularity, but none of its old merits. It is a charming
little shrub, with its slender branches so thickly set
with pink and white flowers that they look like
wreaths.

The Spireas are most beautiful shrubs, bearing
small flowers in great abundance. Like the Flower-
ing Almond their slender branches seem wreaths of
bloom.

SHRUBS, AND HOW TO PLANT THEM 277

The Syringa grows to a hight of eight or
ten feet, branches freely, and becomes a most at-
tractive shrub for a prominent location. It blooms
very profusely, having white flowers with a fragrance
like that of the Orange. On this account it is pop-
ularly known as Mock Orange.

The Deutzias are lovely plants: D. crenata flore
pleno is a double variety, with clusters of pure white
drooping flowers; D. gracilis is a more slender
grower, with graceful delicate white flowers pro-
duced so freely as to almost cover the branches.

The Flowering Sumach is one of our most useful
shrubs where a strong, tall grower is required. It has
finely divided foliage, and its flowers of creamy white
have such an airy, graceful look about them that they
give one the impression of plumes; excellent for cut-
ting, as the flowers combine charmingly with all other
colors.

The Halesia, or Silver Bell, is an old favorite; it
is a tall, strong-growing shrub, having pendulous, bell-
shaped flowers of pure white.

The Purple-leaved Berberry is an excellent shrub
for use among light colored plants, on account of its
rich, dark foliage. If this is planted beside of, or near,
the golden-leaved Weigelia the effect is rich and
striking. If you can give it a place where it will
have some such flower as the yellow Hollyhock, or
Goldenrod, for a background, its beautiful color will
be thrown out with very pleasing effect.

We have many good native shrubs. Some of the
Alders are lovely ornaments of the garden when
they are planted in front of evergreens. The con-
trast between their brilliant red berries and the dark
green of Spruce or Arbor Vitae is very fine, and gives
one a thrill of pleasure when seen through falling
snow, or when the ground is white,

278 HOME FLORICULTURE

The Elders (Fig 71), with their great clusters of
lace-like, milk-white flowers, are quite as fine as many
foreign plants. Some of the Dogwoods are worth
a place in any garden. Our Thorns are almost equal
to the English Hawthorn, but unfortunately they are
not easy to transplant. The wild Crab Apple is a
most lovely shrub, or small tree, when covered with
its bright rose colored flowers of musky sweetness,

FIG 7I—THE AMERICAN ELDER

and would soon be extremely popular if advertised as
having come from Japan, with a long name attached
to it, and a good, big price.

And then, the wild Roses, what could be sweeter?
Sometimes I think them more lovely, in many ways,
than the great double ones. They have such a deli-
cacy of color, such a delightful fragrance, and grow
in such a graceful way, that they ought to be grown
wherever any of the Rose family is cultivated,

SHRUBS, AND HOW TO PLANT THEM 279

Perhaps a small tree may be desired. If so, select
one of the Japanese Maples with finely-cut foliage, or
a cut-leaved Birch. Both are beautiful at all stages
of growth.

Be sure to go over your shrubs each spring, and
thin them out well, if you want them to make strong,
vigorous growth. Some shrubs, like the Lilac, form
their buds the season previous to blooming. These
must not be pruned until after flowering, for this
would destroy a large share of this season’s crop of
flowers. But such shrubs as bear flower$ on growth
of the present season can be pruned in spring. Remove
all dead or injured branches promptly, and do not
hesitate to cut back any branch when you see that it
is trying to get the start of others. It is an easy
matter to make a shrub assume a good, symmetrical
shape if proper care is given when it is needed. This
is when it is growing. If neglected then, it will not
be so easy a matter to bring it into satisfactory shape.

Be sure to keep the grass away from the roots
of your shrubs if you want them to remain in vigor-
ous, healthy condition. If this aggressive little plant
is allowed to have free range it will soon choke out
delicate shrubs, and even the hardiest, like the Lilac,
will suffer from its encroachments.

CHAPTER L

ROCKERIES

When properly made, on a lawn or in a yard of
considerable size, a rockery can easily become a leading
feature of the place. It will attract because of its
wildness and contrast with other portions of the
grounds. But unless properly made, there will be no
sense of wildness about it. What is fondly imagined
by its constructor to pass for wildness will really be
very tame, and the whole thing will most likely be a
burlesque on one of nature’s rockeries. I am fre-
quently amused to see the specimens of rockwork some
grounds display. They are not like anything under the
sun but—themselves !

I would never advise anyone to attempt a rockery
unless there are quite extensive grounds about the
house, for seclusion seems necessary to the complete
carrying out of the idea which the term rockery
suggests. It is a nook apart from frequented places,
or, at least, it should be, to have the charm which
naturally accompanies such bits of nature, with some-
thing of the wild freedom of wood and field about it.
If possible there should be an old tree near it; any way,
some large shrubs which have attained almost the
dignity of a tree. Without tree or shrub, don’t attempt
having a rockery. But with these accessories it will be
possible for you to make something that will afford a
great deal of pleasure, provided, as I have said, you
have room enough to give a sense of seclusion to
the place.

In constructing a rockery do not go to work with
the intention of “laying one up” as a mason would a

Sa

~ per Memeo a

ROCKERIES 281

wall. There should be no precise or systematic arrange-
ment. Heap the stones together as carefully as possi-
ble. The larger the stones are the better. Fill between
them with earth from the woods or the pasture. You
will find many kinds of wild plants springing up in this
soil, after a little, and these plants are the very ones
necessary to give the place a natural look. I have
never been pleased with any rockery filled with any-
thing but wild plants, because there is an inconsistency
in the idea of a rockery over which plants from the
garden and greenhouse grow. The rockery, in the true
sense of the term, suggests perfect freedom from every-
thing conventional and cultivated. Anything not in
accordance with this idea will interfere with the
successful carrying out of the plan.

Of course the idea is to imitate nature. But the
truth is, it is the hardest thing in the world to do to
imitate nature successfully. She never has a plan.
She works from instinct. Most of us lack her instinct
of beauty, and her ability to create it without rules or
patterns, and what we do in imitation of her is quite
likely to bear as little resemblance to her work as the
first drawings of a child resemble the work of a prac-
ticed hand. If it is necessary for the picture on the
slate to be labeled “This is a horse,” or “a cow,” as
the fancy of the amateur artist prompts, it would be
equally necessary in most instances to label most
attempts at rockery building so that no mistake need
be made by the beholder, for one is about as true to
nature as the other.

In attempting to imitate nature in anything, it is
necessary, first of all, if you would do good work, to
take lessons of her. Do you want your rockery to
remind you of some wild nook that you have seen in
the woods? Then go to that spot, and sit down and
study the heap of rocks and the plants growing among

282 HOME FLORICULTURE

them well. Observe how the rocks are piled together.
There is no suggestion of the stonemason. There is no
getting at any precise, formal rule to follow. All is
disorder, in one sense of the word, and yet everything
is in that perfect order which grows out of the eternal
fitness of things. Here a vine has taken root, and its
beauty softens the rugged outline of the rocks across
and over which it clambers, half concealing them. A
Fern has made itself a home in a crevice and flourishes
as you can never expect its fellow to in your rockery.
All kinds of wild things creep and clamber over the
gray stones—grass, weed, moss—all in perfect har-
mony with the place, and not one suggesting the
cultivated garden.

The most pleasing rockery I have ever seen is one
that was not “built” at all. Still, it was made, and yet
it was an accident. A man was hired to draw some
great rocks of which to construct it. He drew them,
and unloaded them in a heap near the place where the
rockery was to be. When the owner came to begin
work, he was impressed with the idea that the careless,
haphazard way in which the stones were piled up was
vastly more like nature’s way of doing such business
than anything likely to result from a more formal
effort, and he had the good sense to leave the heap
precisely as it was. This rockery is a pleasing one
because there is an entire absence of design or plan
about it. If he had rearranged the rocks of which it
is composed he would doubtless have spoiled it.

If you can locate a rockery where it will seem as if
springing from a bank, or as being the continuation of
one, your chance of success with it will be much better
than it will if you have to build it on a level foundation.
Rocks, as a general thing, seem to have tumbled from
somewhere. They don’t heap themselves together on
a flat surface. Choose a place, then, if possible, where

ee

ROCKERIES 283

there is a bit of knoll or hill to give some color of con-
sistency to the idea that possibly they might have fallen
from this elevation, though, of course, you will not be
successful enough in your attempt to make anyone
think for a moment that they ever did so.

Such vines as the Ampelopsis or Virginia Creeper
are excellent for planting among rocks. So is the wild
Grape, or the Blackberry. Let them run riot. Never
attempt to train them. The more of a tangle they
make the more attractive your rockery will be. At the
base of the rocks—which cannot be too large—plant
Ferns of different varieties. Shrubs from the woods
can be planted near. Let the path to it be a round-
about one. If you can arrange it so that one comes
upon it suddenly, and not suspecting what the path he
is following leads to, so much the better. The surprise
of finding a pretty imitation of a bit of wild life there
will add much to the pleasure it will give.

CHAPTER LI

AFTER THOUGHTS

The Helianthus multiforus. This is a new plant,
comparatively, and one that I am quite delighted with.
It is a variety of Sunflower, but a much finer one than
anything of the kind we have had heretofore. It sends
up several stalks from thick, half-tuberous roots, and in
August and September these are well laden with flowers
of a very rich golden yellow. These flowers are about
as large over as the top of a teacup, and are quite
double. They light up the garden wonderfully, and on
this account, more than that of their individual beauty,
I consider them very useful. There is no color so effect-
ive as yellow in bringing out and toning up the beauty
of other colors. It puts life into them. One plant of
this Helianthus will make a good sized garden gay,
which without it would seem filled with a monotony
of dull colors. It seems concentrated sunshine. It is
very effective for the decoration of rooms in autumn,
especially when used with vines of the Virginia Creeper
after that plant has begun to take on its crimson and
maroon colors. It appears to be quite hardy and to
stand our winters well at the North. However, should
it in any locality be found tender, the roots can be
taken up and stored in the cellar.

Hyacinthus candicans (Galtonia candicans). This
plant, popularly known as Summer Hyacinth, is a
member of the Lily family. It blooms in August. It
grows to a hight of three or four feet, and bears a
large number of beautiful, drooping, bell-shaped white
flowers. If several bulbs are planted in the center of a

AFTER THOUGHTS 285

bed of Gladiolus the effect is very fine, as the Summer
Hyacinth throws its flowers well above the others. It
is hardy, and is an excellent plant for cemetery use.
In order to secure a good effect several bulbs must be
planted in a clump.

I intended to speak of the Salvia as a summer
bloomer. It is one of our most effective bedders. It
can be made to do excellent work as the center of a
group. Its long spikes of brilliant flowers make a
splendid show among Cannas and other plants with
rich green foliage. When used with the Helianthus or
with yellow Hollyhocks, or as a background for white
Perennial Phlox, it is very fine. Yellow and white
brings out the intense richness of its flowers vividly.
It is excellent for cutting. Plant it near a clump of
Goldenrod and note the effect. It is difficult to tell
which is the more brilliant.

And that reminds me that I wanted to speak a
good word for this beautiful flower. I have several
clumps of it growing in my yard, and it is greatly
admired by all who see it. It is quite amusing to have
an old farmer stop and lean over the fence to ask me
what “that yellow posy is.” As if he had not seen it
growing, all his lifetime, in the pastures and fence
corners! But it is hardly to be wondered at that he
thinks it something else than the despised “yellow
weed,” for under good treatment it improves wonder-
fully. It becomes a great, round, compact mass of
flower stalks three feet high, completely covered with
golden plumes. It is well worth a place in every
garden. Few flowers give such a rich and solid color
effect as the Goldenrod.

280 HOME FLORICULTURE

Another fine native plant is the Aster of the fence
corners and the pastures. Its delicate color ought to
make it popular. Like the Goldenrod, it improves
wonderfully when well cared for, and in September it
will be covered with purple and blue and lavender
flowers, which are very pleasing in the garden among
flowers of brighter color, but especially so in vases. It
is one of the most charming plants we have for the
decoration of rooms.

We have few finer flowers in the list of border
plants than the herbaceous Spireas. S. palmata alba
has flowers of the purest white, with very large, rich
foliage. S. rosea has pink flowers. The individual
blossoms are small, but there is a multitude of them in
each cluster, which is borne on the top of a stalk four
feet high. These clusters give the effect of plumes, so
light and feathery are they, as one sees them nodding
in the breeze. Be sure to have both varieties, and to
plant them together. One alone is good, the two kinds
much better, one being the complement of the other in
all ways.

Pansies sown in spring give good flowers late in
the season, but never very fine ones before October,
with me, and though the plants seem to come through
the winter in good condition, I fail to get many flowers
from them the next season. I am convinced that the
best plants are secured by late sowings. They ought
not to bloom at all the first season. They should be
strong, vigorous plants in the fall, which have not
exhausted or weakened themselves by flowering. If
well protected they will come out in spring in the
proper condition to begin flowering early, and will
produce fine flowers through the greater part of the
season. I would not try to take them through a second

AFTER THOUGHTS 287

winter. You see that plants grown from early sowing
divide their blooming between the last of the present
year and the first of the next one. I would aim to
prevent this by not sowing seed before July. It is very
much the same with Hollyhocks, and other plants of
that class, which have been sown early in the season.
They don’t get along quite far enough to bloom the
first year, yet they pass that stage which ought to take
them to the close of the first season’s growth. I would
not advise sowing seed of any perennials before July
or August if I wanted them to do their best next season.

When plants are received from the florist do not
remove the paper or moss in which the roots are packed,
at once, and leave the soil exposed until you get ready
to pot them, but sprinkle them thoroughly, just as you
take them from the box. Don’t be afraid of giving too
much water. Then let them stand for an hour or two.
They will freshen up wonderfully in that time, and the
soil will not be likely to crumble away from the roots
when you remove the wrapping.

By all means have a “‘cut-and-come-again” corner.
A place for all the odds and ends of the garden and the
plants which overflow the window. You will find such
a place one of the most delightful spots in or about the
garden. It will give you as much pleasure to visit it as
it does to make an informal call on a friend with whom
you are not expected to stand on ceremony. There
everything is delightfully free and easy—no stiff, prim
arrangements of beds, no suggestion of “company
manners,” or being on dress parade. When you want
a nosegay for your friend, or some flowers for the
house, there is where you will go to look for them first,
and there is where you will always be most likely to

288 HOME FLORICULTURE

find them. You won't be afraid of spoiling the looks
of anything by cutting freely from this corner.

I am often written to by parties who are mystified
by their Rose bushes. <A ietter before me says that the
writer has a very thrifty Hybrid Perpetual. It bloomed
the first year it was planted. The next spring the old
top was dead, but it sent up strong shoots from the
roots, and has continued to do so every year since, but
not a blossom has it given on these branches. Why?
It was a grafted plant. The first year you had Roses
because the graft was alive. That winter the grafted
portion died, and the next spring shoots were sent up
from the stock on which the Hybrid Perpetual bud had
been grafted. This often happens, and the owners fail
to understand why it is. I would never get grafted
Roses. Buy those which are on their own roots.

Do you want a low fence that shall not offend the
eye, but be a “thing of beauty”? Then get some wire
netting, with large meshes, and stretch it smoothly on
small, neat posts. Then plant Virginia Creeper by it,
and let this plant take entire possession of it. It will
be beautiful at all seasons, and especially so in fall when
the foliage takes on its rich colors. This netting makes
an excellent trellis for training Clematis on. It is also
excellent for piazza use, as it does not keep out the
sun when not covered by vines, is not obstructive in
appearance, and lasts for a lifetime if taken care of. Its
meshes afford a much better support than any trellis I
have ever tried.

Floral awnings can be made very easily, and they
will be found to be not only quite as effective as the
striped cloth in general use, hut vastly more pleasing
to the eye. “The boys” can make the frames for them.

AFTER THOUGHTS 289

These should be of lath, nailed in squares, with strips
crossing from corner to corner, to stiffen them, as well
as to form a support for the vines trained over them.
Fasten one side of the frame to the top of the door or
window frame, and support it by running strips from
each side of the door or window frame to the front cor-
ners. Let these strips for supports be long enough to
throw the front of the framework of lath out well from
the window, but not long enough to make it anywhere
near level when put in place. When covered with flow-
ering vines the effect will be very satisfactory. These
homemade awnings can be used in combination with
window boxes, at second story windows. Care must be
taken to give the framework slant enough to properly
shade the window.

I frequently get complaints from parties who have
been victimized by the “tree peddler.” They tell me
about buying a Rose which was to bear “‘seven colors on
the same bush,” or perhaps a “blue Rose,” or a “Va-
nilla Plant” which was wonderfully fragrant when first
bought, but soon lost its sweetness. The only way to
prevent being imposed on by these unprincipled persons
is to refuse to buy of them. Send your orders to some
dealer in whom you have confidence. Then you won’t
get cheated.

I have been asked to give a sort of unfailing recipe
for a “rockery.”” I can give one which will be satis-
factory, always: Don’t have any. The fact is, we
can’t make rockeries that are not monstrosities. Nature
has the patent on them. You may pile up a lot of stone
in the yard or on the lawn and call it a rockery. But
that doesn’t make it so in the true sense. It is nothing
more or less than a heap of stones, and a burlesque on
nature’s work. The only way in which you will ever be

290 HOME FLORICULTURE

able to get any satisfaction out of it, if you have good
taste, is by covering it up as quickly as possible. Even
if it were possible for us to construct a rockery that
would imitate nature’s work well, such a construction
would be out of place ina small yard. A rockery—one
of nature’s, at least—suggests wildness and seclusion,
and you don’t expect to find these in a front yard not
fifty feet square.

I do really hope that no reader of this book has
ever had the “Gipsy Kettle’ craze. If he or she has, I
trust they have recovered from it long ago, and that the
kettle has been consigned to the oblivion of the back
yard, where it always belonged. The sight of a dinner
pot painted a fiery red, and dangling from three sticks,
with a poor, down-hearted little plant in it, has often
made me feel like committing trespass. No one ever
saw a plant growing well in one of these abominations,
and it is not at all to be wondered at that the plant
wanted to die, and did die.

Layering as a method of propagating some kinds of
plants which do not root readily from cuttings is to be
recommended. Take a branch and bend it down to the
ground, giving it a sharp bend that will crack it at the
place where it comes in contact with the earth, or take
a sharp knife and cut it about half through on the
underside at this point. Fasten it by pegs, or crossed
sticks, so that this cut or fractured part will stay where
you put it, and cover with soil to the depth of about
two inches. Set a stick by it, and tie the end of the
shoot to it, in an upright position. You will under-
stand that the shoot which you are attempting to root
must be left attached to the parent plant. This fur-
nishes life to it while it is forming roots of its own.
The break, or cut, partially obstructs the flow of sap,

AFTER THOUGHTS 291

and a callus will be formed at that portion, and after-
wards roots. Let it remain connected with the old
plant till you are sure it has rooted well. Then cut off
and transplant. This method applies to many of our
shrubs which do not sucker freely. It is especially
valuable in the propagation of choice Roses.

If you have a greenhouse do not take the plants
all out of it in summer. By shading the roof you can
make them as comfortable there as they would be out-
side, if the windows and doors are left open to allow a
free circulation of air. The roof can be shaded from
inside by using thin cotton cloth which can be tacked to
the rafters, or you can splash the glass on the outside
with whitewash. Apply with a small combination
pump, or from a syringe. I prefer the whitewash to
the cloth shading, it being easier to put on, and less
expensive. In making it, simply pour boiling water
over fresh lime. When freezing weather comes it will
be loosened from the glass and can easily be brushed
off. Unless some kind of shading is given, the mid-
summer sun will very soon scorch your plants.

If you have only a window collection, and there is
no veranda or other shaded, sheltered place in which
to put them in summer, make a shed for them by setting
posts inthe ground. Nail strips from post to post, and
then tack on lath. Let the lath be about an inch apart.
This will shade your plants sufficiently.

Every place ought to have a “summer house” of
some kind. It need not be elaborate or expensive to be
enjoyable. Set four stout posts in the ground twelve or
fourteen feet apart each way. Let them be about eight
feet high above the ground. Nail strips from one to
the other, at the top, and put other strips across, lattice

292 HOME FLORICULTURE

fashion. This will give you a good frame. Plant
quick growing vines by each post to run up to the roof.
They will cover it by the end of June, and you will have
a pleasant place to read or sew in. Have a hammock
swung there, and a rocking chair, and sometimes take
tea or dinner there. It will give additional relish to the
meal to eat it “under green branches.” It will make it
seem like a little, extemporized picnic to the children.
And the children will enjoy this rustic structure very
much as a “playhouse.” If you have boys, set them to
work at building it. They will enjoy the work, and it
will do them good to get used to handling the saw and
hammer.

I have been asked if the reason why plants in iron
vases on the lawn are so generally unsatisfactory is be-
cause of the material of which the vase is constructed.
I answer no. The reason in nine cases out of ten is
simply this: The soil is dry. The vase is exposed to
the wind and air, consequently evaporation is rapid. The
iron absorbs the heat of the sun’s rays, and this helps
to hasten evaporation. If you will give it the attention
it demands—a daily application of water in such
quantities that the soil is completely soaked through—
you can grow plants well in iron vases. In a short
time the vines used will cover the sides of the vase,
thus shading it, and checking evaporation somewhat.

Do not try to have too many plants in a small
window. One good one—symmetrical, and well de-
veloped on all sides—is much more satisfactory to the
lover of fine flowers than half a dozen awkward
specimens. And that they will be awkward if crowded
is a foregone conclusion,

AFTER THOUGHTS 293

In putting out plants in the garden, choose a
cloudy day for it, if possible. Water well when you
plant. Shade for a day or two, or till they begin to
grow.

_ Pits for wintering many varieties of plants at the
South can be made cheaply. Dig out a place in a well-
drained location to the depth of three or four feet. Set
up posts at each corner, the two at the north projecting
about a foot and a haif above the ground; the two at
the south about six inches. This will give the top of
the pit a slope toward the sun of about the right angle
for the glass with which it is covered to get the full
benefit ‘of its rays. Cover with glazed sash, hung on
hinges at the higher side, or back. In mild weather
this sash should be lifted to admit air. Have it made to
fit the boarding closely all around. Bank up well to
the top of the frame. Cover the glass with matting, or
something similar, in cold weather, but remove as soon
as the sun comes out. Plants in such a pit will not
make good growth, but they will remain in good health,
and be ready to make a vigorous growth as soon as
spring comes. It is very important that the pit should
be well drained. If it is not the plants will mildew or
mold, and you will be quite sure to lose many of them.
Such a pit would not afford sufficient protection at
the North.

Agave Americana is 2 fine plant for a large vase to
stand on the steps leading to the house, or near the
path, where something striking and peculiar is desired.
The variegated varieties are also attractive for this
purpose. They stand the sun well. They can be
taken to the cellar for wintering, if you have no green-
house. If you have a greenhouse, they can be made
to do good work in helping to make it attractive in

a

294 HOME FLORICULTURE

winter. The Yucca is also an excellent plant for use in
vases. Sois the New Zealand Flax, with its long, sti
foliage, heavily marked with yellow.

If we would have fine Roses, we must fight
for them. The rose-chafer, the slug, and the aphis
will do their best to spoil the crop of flowers, and, if
let alone, they will soon destroy every bud, and make
the toliage look as if a fire had scorched it. I make
liberal applications of the soap insecticide frequently
spoken of in the preceding pages, early in the season—
before the pests appear, in fact—and find it an easy
matter to prevent them from getting a foothold on the
plants. ‘Prevention is better than cure.” In applying
it, be very sure to have it reach the underside of the
leaves. Let someone hold the bushes over in such a
manner that the underside of the foliage will present
itself favorably, and then give the entire plant a good
drenching. Half of the battle consists in getting the
start of the insects.

Ferns from pasture land and wood lot can be
readily domesticated if one is willing to go to a little
trouble in preparing a place for them. Plant them in
soil brought from the places where they grew. A
wagon load of it will be sufficient to make a good-
sized bed. In getting plants, choose the smaller ones,
and take them up with considerable soil adhering te
their roots. Place them, as fast as lifted, in baskets
lined with damp moss, and be careful to see that their
roots do not get dry before they are planted. When a
Fern root becomes really dry, the plant it is attached
to is ruined. Ferns are delicate plants, but they can
be transplanted successfully if handled carefully. In
choosing a place for them select one that is sheltered

AFTER THOUGHTS 295

from the hot sunshine. The north side of the house
is a good place for the Fern bed.

One objection—in fact, about the only objection
that can be urged—against the Lilac, is its tendency to
sucker freely. If allowed to have its own way, each
old plant soon becomes the center of a thicket. This
can easily be prevented if one will apply the hoe vigor-
ously about the old plant, for a few minutes, once a
week, during the season of growth. Shave off the
sprouts close to the ground, and keep them shaved off,
and you will have no trouble in keeping your Lilacs
under control.

Nearly all smooth-leaved plants are greatly bene-
fited by applications of water to their foliage, provided
the sun is not allowed to shine on them while wet. But
plants having hairy foliage, like the Gloxinia and the
Rex Begonia, are almost invariably injured by the
application of water to their leaves. Bear this in
mind, and be governed in showering your plants by
the peculiarities of their foliage.

XO@ MOGNIM INdaLsSVL v—z4 Ola

INDEX

PAGE PAGE
PL BISLOM. etn sa u's rare @ wiataid ai Seis BOROUIS! le diem ala nicraniaccda xe oer
Fine Varieties of......... 5 SPOON ! SOMN TOM < nis Caviceaseerigiecy s/s ir
Repottine) ss.ae ee cennwe aaa 99 Treatment GMA cso er ce: iit
Training Plants of......... 7 Be ou Best Flowering..... 112
ACHSMIM tac ack <a < sada ean caras ist of Best Foliage Kinds.. 167
CA rarer RTAS Smo) rains ela nistotateesc eta “ REM cxtloled's aais/tialsts. cia 0 winjmete 166
Agave Americana............- 293 Desirable Rinds0fs..< ces 167
USER MSO c/o wiciar a de mie s/e deer 61, 218] Treatment of ......-...... 166
Akebia quinata ............... 265) PEUHESOUS hice ode feud cow eauhee 96
PNCMER ME Miia ale aint) arain'e W aieie, etn n'a ais 277\Berberry, Purple-leaved ....... 277
Allium Neapolitanum ......... WOsIHIGNONIa, acdsace tse ase caceete 265
Alyssum, Sweet........... Tt SIO DILCETS WEEE fa cass, osac yan cK 266
JOT GRACE RAO DOCADECOL ACT 89 Bleeding Heart 250
Treatment of . wine 89| Bone Meal .... 39
Ammonia ....... . 39\Border Plants 247
Ampelopsis ... 265 Bougainvillea 109
eitchii 265|Bouvardia ....... Fatit
Anemone ' . 250\/Brackets for Plants. wee Sa
Annuals, List of the Best...... SAN QUES ONVALITANG rales « assis’ atacal eralevata ace OF
Other Good .......5.... Rea ARS RUD? ote da adisec owen sce eet 183
A MIRNMU ICUS oe avis ay cai aes toda. 159| Best for Bedding.......... ree 5
Aphis, or Black Louse on Chrys- Drainage for Beds of....... 255
anthemums. 0... .2.05-. yas 134| For Winter Flowering...... 183
Or Plant Louse......... ++. 28) For Winter Flowering, Treat-
PADDR CEM cece wns casicae uses 197 MENG Oke <a'saacnoaeea adie 183
PROVINCIA AR GRRAGB PICO OCne 247| In Bloom, Treatment of..... 187
(Pivaliguiindetnc duce ans casi Os/6s ain 1s7| Making Beds for......... «. 254
AA CMNIG Sia clea sha ectsisetue s/o n'y ne MGMT OGIM OL foetate onan aa cminearciere 254
rUlel Mn errors cw c wield <b ocnicie ce 157| Time for Planting.......... 254
Aristolochia ........... eae 265| To Cover Beds of.......... 258
TCS TE oe BARE ERIGRE OF; 159, 176] When to Take up........ 185, 258
INTICINEL Metadata dean oe ccein desis 157\|Caladium esculentum ......... 227
PepReereeretaleretc'e\nivic/a\u'm aes 0/45 5 217, 219) pee Poecocmce cence tT 102
INGtivemittatdas ccanscconeec << ANOLGGL al actacnta tts! «ah elders race Walaone 83
GRE ee adie idx & oiaiw slacaigiereta t -. 196] Treatment of ..... Siet geee 84
AvriiniowesBlGral < dvs. aye tse 288\Calliopsis ..... mies ke ata airs 217
PRsemlemt meres welds oan Caisse ae 0a, MU GT CHIP k Ge etocerpemcosnoecces 120
Ue pe Ot tas 6am asia wie aiais= 118 lenpenuls seecusara ha ala ial’ wate cers 247
Dra me ftriiice ad's cfs:are, ed: neis(a.n s.0 117)Can RCE ire wSicia oO ara yaa aut aaiy . 218
Sebo cObeintt ges veas oss ceels © nie REGICANNRy Saicontgnneaee senna cuaon 218
NV SCORITIMONT fecal ne(e cleric mereicey rare of I Meliss stat atta: 247
Azaleas, Fine Varieties of..... 119,Care_ of House yrants During
enGItMm its. atcsi'e weiss «c's 119 Summer and Fall......... 32
Treatment of Sromine Liaw 118 Care of Plants in ee aS 15
Balsam ....... 2t7\Carnation ..........
Banana Plant 227| Good Varieties of. “
Basket Plants 478| Marguerité <2... ...<csncues
Best for General Culture. . 56| Soil for and Treatment of.. 127
Bay Window hoes ccocesuses st, 172|\Celastrus scandens ........... 266
Bedding Plants ............. Rea GOLOSTEN can alae wralng ea ee's ence etsy

Vat (Qhicades sion ws wnscne eas Saal Gestrurm. o:c.c.c ce. a'r t+ carnal taiare S1

298 INDEX
PAGE

Chinese Bell Flower.......... QO7|Fertilizers: <scr cnn ceneionralents
lgmbuldsion Sascedosoaccotecn hn Og|Bevertew! on pc sce cre seine
Wacred a dotl ye erie ctestacie siteete TOG(H laminge Stat yao aeananialaeie

Chrysanthemums ............ 194|Micus) elastica: 2+ vanpitcsbanteers
Aphis, or Black Louse on.. 134\/Flax, New Zealand...
Fertilizers for . 132\Flower Garden, Soil for
Repotting cache 133} When to Make...... :
THUS By Gao hocnacdncescos8 132| Seeds, When to Sow....
Meiibils Sapmonsnooceccogds £434) Stands)... cious eaten eee eta
SDreatments Of isis ctteisictteseies 132|Flowering Almond ...........
WYEVSoure ooadsooosacoonoos ee ete Ot ape isdanooancongesor
When! to Start..; .< ce-ic-ne ebd) | (ehtteetls powensocicggos oes.

Ginerarians erl-tinieteisietnieisteterateter= Too} solante® ist (Obsarieatee eee
irom HSE ss atctevelelsisicren ini OR KOG| eielumm scenic cemelet eineeesietears
Treatment Otn wciswisielemis ols Gp Learn epssthiac les) a is vare eats ntale tes areiateiets

(G\ETNEE). | SAnaotaarncoacoensoS AGG AV INES: < . -iclv vie ei bin elstal sfaelevatetas
Desirable Varieties of...... 267|/Foliage Plants ............--

(ENTRY Goqgodacecndad 300000 |Fountain Pump .............-

Coboea .. BOXBIGVE. Sp osc einieeisleteeieieiereioees

Columbine Freesia ..

(Goreopsis? te iicre aie cicnte sfietetelsints INTIS So sceccc soc

(ope Ci Sade segocosunyvoncoac List of the Best.....

Cutting biowers Freely.... LRtimigatinge p eis sieves teials allateiacate

Bite sA\annonbasoswdan Garaen Making and Seed Sow-
fig Satu= aaapdocsaccdns Hit st meen ora o ce CATO Can = wate
To Start in’ Water..<.:. 2... Gardenia florida ..........- ge}

Gyclamenueeweeseeenee eres 7g Genista’isisisicisis ata ole cain eho . 87

Cypress: SVame cierceitare ale <oraie ee 219\Geraniums, Bed of..........+ 123

Dahlia; Bedding ~--...-5--.c.- 238] Ivy Leaf, List of Best...... 124
Botiquet ey oe cee aes 238) List (of Best.cnw ene teeter 122
(TMs ates (ap opdaoaeenesod Scos 298) Sol fOr srsreste <'sfala ntertatsiae at 122
Cause of Failure of. 235| Sweet-scented, List of Best.. 124
Classes of 238|\Gipsy Kettle .. +. 290
Shaw) vec acine 238\Gladiolus ..... 243
Sinplemecictncietetiviesieetetserciertare 238] Bulbs, Increasing 245
THO arcc cettictercininminioeicarbere 235| Bulbs, Treatment Obs xe wae 243

Dahlias, Preparing Soil for... 236] Cheapness of ........+.+++ » 244
Protecting from Frost...... 239| (Colors of eee cclesseesien .. 244
Supportive cisine eck eeteiete 236) For Cutting ....... nie tee oe 245
Treatment of Roots After How. to Plant.... 0.0.0. 50p - 244

lteCia WSS Sacccnod ond ceeds 230|) (SOIL ON seis cee 243

Wrateringiecscchie ceric 168, 236] Supporting Flower Stalks of 244
When to Plant Out..... 167, 236] When to Plant......... a/emieues
When. to Starts 5.05.0 235/Gloxinia ........ Rechalags Seale as) 098

Daphne cneorum ............- 276|Goldenrod siathis) 285

eiek ea jason os SOSIGOUMUS tn yiae coe 219

Decorative Plants A 135|Greenhouses, Small .

Delphinium ceo. scsce.ccm 218, 248 Building <1 cjoreess

Déntzinyy Gch ce nw aewateenie Or kor Estimates for

Dicentra .....-2eeeeee eee eens How to Build.

Digitalis alc osiaifiatclelecinfe Wie \sietniols Not Expensive .

Diseased Plants .. Pleasure to be Derived from 204

Dracaenas ....+.eeseesecesons To Arrange Interior of...... 209

Drainage of Plants in Pots.... 7] Ventilating ............ 143, 210

Dutehman’s: Pipe: see. ccc vec’ 26s5|Grevillea ........+.- oo tAY 166

Elders:) t2s..citsiveree cele stent onets 278] Guernsey * Lily, s.00s sean aue see 106

Eulalia: 0. cscWsmenevsccesce 228] Halesig oc. wei nvetisesicis 277

Eupatorium ... 62|Heating and Interior Arrange-

Euphorbia Jacquiniflora — . 110 ment of Greenhouse. . 208

Farfugitum 2.02 ..nesvccee . 164] Hot Water, for Greenhouse. 208
GDYIEE ac ptierimar sice eee rete se 149| Steam, for Greenhouse...... 208
Vist OLe renames dace Wieser ... 1§t/Helianthus multiflorus ..... an, Om
Treatment of seeeceeeess ¥50'Heliotrope ..... ean see eS vas,

INDEX 299

Hibiscus

Hollyhock

Honey Bell ..---++++*

Nii ctenbhle, ac ivcka qos neans* 7s SOUL RNS oc 3ehtes rt ge oe penas
Best Varieties of..----+++++° 266|Othonna crassifolia

Hops, Japan .-+seeererseeste’ Big|Oxalis ..-seeeerersreeerte’

Hoya carnosa .-.+-+s:09rts7'* 170|Pacony — s+++-rs eens

Hyacinth ..ccseseceerrnsecees 190|Palms,

OMAN eececereeeseret® ... 190] Treatment OF. siemctde rams emus 139
Hyacinthus eandicanS «++++++* 284|Pandanus «+-seereecsrestet ts
Hydrangea ----+--ss00ntttt ts 104| Pansies, Covering --

Hortensis .---«::-s9290"°"* 104|_ When to Sow .
Paniculata grandiflora ..---- 275|Pamsy -eseerrsees
{mantophyllum ‘ * yoS|Passion Flower i
Impatiens sultani 68\Vea, Perennial .-.---
Insects and How to Fight Them 28|Pelargoniums = -++--+++*"*
Dab Un Me ROCCE CLIT Gnd Oana aso|Pentas ---++++eeeeerrt ttt" rir
iy, Coliseum ..---++sss 5004" 1B1|Petunia «--++seereer rere’
nglish ...-++++s5** 27, 105, 173 Phlox \«cccseesasssemn se sess 216
German .-----eecesesrettt” 175 Perennial ..---+-+eresrttt" 252
Kenilworth ...--eeseresrte* 181|Phormium ..-+-+-sereersrtttt* 165
Janan Quince .-.-++s-50580tt" 275| Pickle Plant ...--eeesseet et? 178
asmine, Cape ..+---+:s9*-"** 81\Pipes for Heating, How Ar-
ASMINES «saecsccsen sets tts So Yan@ed oc ccvieesaquces tosis 209
asminum grandiflorum ..----> Sr\klant Sprinklers -.-+-++++++"* 18
Revolutum .--- $2| Window, Tasteful 26
Tusticia .-+---++> 108|Plants, Arranging -- 54
Lachenalia 194| Basket -----2-++-7-7<0 ~» 178
Lantana .- 182| Basket, Best for General Cul-
Larkspur, Perennial. .156, 218, 248 CULE! wie ess cnecenese neste 56
Layering for Roses and Carna- Bedding .------sserss**"* 224

Rion ee eee vases ees 290| Bedding, List of....---.-- 224
Wide calvsiesiecnecsstsst soca: 275| Best Adapted to Window Cul-
Witiee sonic clas cena sass 187 4UPO D sjacencfetas wsiemle oe tes 55

Fine Varieties of.-.-+++++** 270| Bes for Foliage
Soil for «---0e-e2 05° °* ae" 270 Diseased ..----eeeereseet?
Lily, Bermuda or Easter. ..+-- 187 Foliage -----
ulbs, How to Plant....---- 269| For Edging -
Bulbs, Cover in the Fall.... 269 For Producing Tropical Ef-
Egyptian ..---eeeercrrcettt 83 fects a.ccccacsscnvesveres 224
Of the Valley..------:--++"* 192\ For Window Box..---s:++2 45
Scarborough «---+-++- 91| For Window Culture, List of 55
Lime Water for, Plants.. .. 41| Frozen, How to Treat...--- 46
Linaria cymbalaria nicahaanae ** 481| House, Time to Put Out of
Linum trigynum .---- ten he ass 108 Doors .---+-seeersseest 32
Lopelia ...-eeeersesetes 178, 219 Must Have Rest.-----++++°* 48
Madeira Vine .---++ssse00t* 176, Old, Repotting 8
Mahernia ...---++seereto"t'"* 67! Plunging ..---++sssserottt* 33
Manure, Cow «--s-ererrectttt 38! Resting .----+--:° 48
Piguidi% -ass-sesse ests 38 Showering .----+s+ssessstt'* 17
Maple, Flowering «.--+++9+** . 97| Taking ndoors 36
Marguerites .-+-+-ssrrerrtett 109} Watering «-------- 12
Mealy Bug ------ . . 30, What Ts Best to Do with,
Mignonette «----++° .. 219 During Summer fe a ater ©
Mimulus moschatus - ~~ 29\Plumbago «+-++++++"" se
Miscellaneous Hints ----+++:> go\Poinsettia .--+--+sse0tt ttt? 168
Moneywort «.--ssssrcsst tet! r81/Poppy ----esese reset 222
Morning Glory ---:-- oP siee atg|Poxtilaca: or as: +s) aoa 218
Musa Ensete .----++ssss°07* . 227\Postscript of Odds and Ends.. 284
Musk Plant ....ssseeresse9* 99|Pots, Porous or Glazed. ...---+ 50
Myrtle ...eeeceereerete 7.1) 106|_ Size of ara RO
Narcissus -- 194| Potting 7
Nasturtium ...---eesserrttte 217 Primrose, Chinese --+-++- eas Od

300

Primrose, Bab
Primula obconica

Pyrus Japonica .._. 7°
Red § a

Ora sate evere
Antidote for .......
Ricinus
Rockeries
OBC Taye

IN

DEX

PAGE

OOS 275|Smilax ....
sYete Cine 29/Soil, Best
nvaleve wiateta 30/Solanum j

shatatal ates. £ 227|_ Palmata

+++.280, 289

siarnielerele 127|Sprinklers, Plant
114)St

Yo Kill Insects on the. .114, 129
wax So Difficult to Grow

ein hese

ara dda 114

OE. ence 262/S

Obs std 263

sueyaintavynhe 115

Bet ane 259

Hardy. Best Old Varieties of 260

Tea, for Buttonhole
ea, List of Most
able Varieties

Tea, Soil for Bed of

Rhynchospermum
Rubber Plant
Rudbeckia
SagoPalint keene
i ei

Scilla
Screw

Tea, Treatment of...

+ 262
230
Bouquet 230

Desir-
Bt chie5 232
SAO 234
eievate crave 232

sleleiaiateye 162

Saree cere 250/Vallota purpurea
stata Haye 161) Vinea
285|\

66/Shrubs, Where to Plant..... +. 274
63/Silk Oak .......... vss 166

20|/Silver Bell

Tuberose
BAO RES 73\T

Soap Insecticide ;

Spiraea. ca.eneasece ee

Striped paize
ummer House ..
Vines for
Swainsonia 2
Sweet Atyssum
Peas...

Tree Peddler
Tropaeolum

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planting and maintenance of the beds, artificial propagation,
manures, enemies, selection for market and for improvement,
preparation for sale, and the profits that may be expected.
This booklet is concisely written, well and profusely illus-
trated, and should be in the hands of all who expect to grow
this drug to supply the export trade, and to add a new and
profitable industry to their farms and gardens, without inter-
fering with the regular work. New edition. Revised and en-
farged. Illustrated. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth . . . . $0.50

Landscape Gardening

By F. A. Waucu, professor of horticulture, university of
Vermont. A treatise on the general principles governing
outdoor art; with sundry suggestions for their application
in the commoner problems of gardening. Every paragraph is
short, terse and to the point, giving perfect clearness to the
discussions at all points. In spite of the natural difficulty
of presenting abstract principles the whole matter is made
entirely plain even to the inexperienced reader. Illustrated.
152 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth . . .. . Net, $075

Hedges, Windbreaks, Shelters and Live Fences

By E. P. Powert. A treatise on the planting, growth
and management of hedge plants for country and suburban
homes. It gives accurate directions concerning hedges; how
to plant and how to treat them; and especially concerning
windbreaks and shelters. It includes the whole art of making
a delightful home, giving directions for nooks and balconies,
for bird culture and for human comfort. Illustrated. 140
pages. se 7 inches:e Clottiy or 5, 0 + uss oss SOKO

(8)

Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants

By C. L. Atten. A complete treatise on tne history,
description, methods of propagation and full directions for
the successful culture of bulbs in the garden, dwelling and
greenhouse. The author of this book has for many years
made bulb growing a specialty, and is a recognized authority
on their cultivation and management. The cultural direc-
tions are plainly stated, practical and to the point. The
illustrations which embellish this work have been drawn
from nature and have been engraved especially for this
book. 312 pages. 5x7inches. Cloth .:. . . $1.50

Fumigation Methods

By Wi.tis G. Jonnson. <A timely up-to-date book on
the practical application of the new methods for destroying
insects with hydrocyanic acid gas and carbon bisulphid, the
most powerful insecticides ever discovered. It is an indis-
pensable book for farmers, fruit growers, nurserymen,
gardeners, florists, millers, grain dealers, transportation com-
panies, college and experiment station workers, etc. Illus-
trated. 313 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth . . . . . $1.00

Diseases of Swine

By Dr. R. A. Cratc, Professor of Veterinary Medicine at
the Purdue University. A concise, practical and popular guide
to the prevention and treatment of the diseases of swine. With
the discussions on each disease are given its causes, symptonis,
treatment and means of prevention. Every part of the book
impresses the reader with the fact that its writer is thor-
oughly and practically familiar with all the details upon which
he treats. All technical and _ strictly scientific terms are
avoided, so far as feasible, thus making the work at once
available to the practical stock raiser as well as to the teacher
and student. Illustrated. 5x 7inches. 190 pages. Cloth. $0.75

Spraying Crops—Why, When and How

By Crarence M. Weep, D.Sc. The present fourth edition
has been rewritten and set throughout to bring it thoroughly
up to date, so that it embodies the latest practical information
gleaned by fruit growers and experiment station workers. So
much new information has come to light since the third edi-
tion was published that this is practically a new book, needed
by those who have utilized the earlier editions, as well as by
fruit growers and farmers generally. Illustrated. 136 pages.
5 x: inches. ‘Gloth), ;2 « © > wiaGue Glenn eeEDSS

(10)

Successful Fruit Culture

By SAmuet T. Maynarp. A practical guide to the culti-
vation and propagation of Fruits, written from the standpoint
of the practical fruit grower who is striving to make his
business profitable by growing the best fruit possible and at
the least cost. It is up-to-date in every particular, and covers
the entire practice of fruit culture, harvesting, storing, mar-
keting, forcing, best varieties, etc., etc. It deals with principles
first and with the practice afterw ards, as the foundation, priti-
ciples of plant growth and nourishment must always remain
the same, while practice will vary according to the fruit
grower’s immediate conditions and environments. Illustrated.
Bos pages. sSaceamcnes. Clothe... % & » «. $100

Plums and Plum Culture

By F. A. Waucu. A complete manual for fruit growers,
nurserymen, farmers and gardeners, on all known varieties
of plums and their successful management. This book marks
an epoch in the horticultural literature of America. It is a
complete monograph of the plums cultivated in and indigenous
to North America. It will be found indispensable to the
scientist seeking the most recent and authoritative informa-
tion concerning this group, to the nurseryman who wishes to
handle his varieties accurately and intelligently, and to the
cultivator who would like to grow plums successfully. Illus-
trated. 391 pages. 5x7inches. Cloth . .. . . $1.50

Fruit Harvesting, Storing, Marketing

By F. A. Waucu. A practical guide to the picking, stor-
ing, shipping and marketing of fruit. The principal subjects
covered are the fruit market, fruit picking, sorting and pack-
ing, the fruit storage, evaporation, canning, statistics of the
fruit trade, fruit package laws, commission dealers and deal-
ing, cold storage, etc., ete. No progressive fruit grower can
afford to be without this most valuable book. Illustrated.
asapares. 5 x 7 inches. Clot . . = s . +... $800

Systematic Pomology

By F. A. Waueu, professor of horticulture and landscape
gardening in the Massachusetts agricultural college, formerly
of the university of Vermont. This is the first book in the
English language which has ever made the attempt at a com-
plete and comprehensive treatment of systematic pomology.
It presents clearly and in detail the whole method by which
fruits are studied. The book is suitably illustrated. 288
Pagese Sid Zz imches. Cloth, 3) 2s & Gm wl « « $100

qd.)

The New Egg Farm

By H. H. Sropparp. A practical, reliable manual on
producing eggs and poultry for market as a profitable business
enterprise, either by itself or connected with other branches
of agriculture. It tells all about how to feed and manage,
how to breed and select, incubators and brooders, its labor-
saving devices, etc., etc. Illustrated. 331 pages. 5x 7 inches.
Clothe «4.0. nin Ya ee SS. ee Weed me ee

Poultry Feeding and Fattening

Compiled by G. B. Fiske. A handbook for poultry keep-
ers on the standard and improved methods of feeding and
marketing all kinds of poultry. The subject of feeding and
fattening poultry is prepared largely from the side of the
best practice and experience here and abroad, although the
underlying science of feeding is explained as fully as needful.
The subject covers all branches, including chickens, broilers,
capons, turkeys and waterfowl; how to feed under various
conditions and for different purposes. The whole subject of
capons and caponizing is treated in detail. A great mass of
practical information and experience not readily obtainable
elsewhere is given with full and explicit directions for fatten-
ing and preparing for market. This book will meet the needs
of amateurs as well as commercial poultry raisers. Profusely
illustrated. 160 pages. 5x7'%4 inches. Cloth. . . . $0.50

Poultry Architecture

Compiled by G. B. Fiske. A treatise on poultry buildings
of all grades, styles and classes, and their proper location,
coops, additions and special construction; all practical in de-
sign, and reasonable in cost. Over 100 illustrations. 125 pages.
5x9 anches,. /Cloth.. 2° 7. sh. Rise) cues) een G

Poultry Appliances and Handicraft

Compiled by G. B. Fiske. Illustrated description of a
great variety and styles of the best homemade nests, roosts,
windows, ventilators, incubators and brooders, feeding and
watering appliances, etc. etc. Over 100 illustrations. Over
125 pages. 5x7 inches. ‘Cloth: - “2 (ee eee cep

Turkeys and How to Grow Them

Edited by Hersert Myrick. A treatise on the natural
history and origin of the name of turkeys; the various breeds,
the best methods to insure success in the business of turkey
growing. With essays from practical turkey growers in
different parts of the United States and Canada Copiously
illustrated. 154 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . . $1.00

(18)

+ FANTASIES for SPRING ~
rtistic ¢ Strikingly heautifu

“é

‘ BuT WHO CAN PAINT
Vrwe NATURE ? CAN IMAGINATION BOAS%

AMI/O ITS GAY. CREATION, HUES LIKE HERS | P
= = 1 ‘

} tulips are so mrealled baraiise of the rese mblance sted the bud to a parrot’s beak. The flowers are

turious twisted petals, and have green tints intermingled. They come in many beautiful co
4 flowers they are unsurpassed.

j 1 are natives of South Eastern Europe, and have been cultivated since medieval times. Plant in g
{ ¥ell-limed soil, enriched with bone-meal Assure good drainage. Plant four inches deep, and six i
pat. Set on a trowel full of coarse sand. Mulch lie zhtly in winter after the ground freezes. Do nc
ff leaves after flowering, these are necessary to allow sap to return to bulbs so they will mature pro}
ase and wus bulbs every two or three years.

am. Ve GaRoenC CurTure SERIE: SERIES
eae

Cosralienr CANADA
by Haro Becucrr 54 ‘A