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HORSE SENSE.

A PRACTICAL TREATISE

HORSE BREEDING— SELECTION OF STALLIONS AND BROOD MARES— CARE
AND HANDLING OP STALLIONS-CARE OP BROOD MxVRES-DIFPERENT
TYPES OF HORSES AND THEIR USES-PROPER ROAD TO IMPROVE-
MENT-GOVERNMENT OWNERSHIP OF STALLIONS-CARE
AND FEEDING OF HORSES TO KEEP THEM WELL -NAT-
URAL LAWS GOVERNING THE ACTION OF THE
HORSE-EARLY EDUCATION -CORRECTING BAD
HABITS-GOOD AND BAD SHOEING- MIS-
CELLANEOUS RECIPES -VETERINARY
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.
ETC., ETC., ETC.

BY J. C. CURRYER, M. D.

Fourder of the "Mianesota Horseman"; Author of the "Stallion Register"; Assistant Super-

intendcnt of Minnesota Farmer's Institutes; Member of the Minnesota State

Board of Agriculture; Superintendent of the Horse Department

of the Minnesota State Fair, Etc,

MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.
FARM, STOCK Si HOME COMPANY.

COPYKIGHT, 1900, BY THE

FARM, STOCK & HOME COMPANY.

ODE TO THE HORSE.

"Who does not love a noble horse,

So trusty and so kind?
He serves his master part in fear

And love and faith combined.

He is not only man's best friend,

But man's best servant, too:
Whether treated good, or treated ill,

He is faithful, kind and true.

He plows the ground and plants the grain,

He reaps and rakes and mows;
And draws the heavy harvest wain

From morn till evening's close.

He treads the course with lightning speed,

Though often much abused:
And strains each nerve with powerful will,

That man may be amused.

Then let the hand that guides the- rein

Be ever kind and true:
For the horse is God's creation. n\>\.

As much as I or you."

— Mrs. S. E. Currver, wife of the author.

PREFACE.

It is now quite a number of years since my friend, Mr. Woodworth,
made a suggestion that 1 have since tried to follow. He said to me
(after seeing the manner in which I handled a wild and nervous horse):
"if you will note down from day to day what your experience justifies,
in a few years you will be able to give us a book on the horse that will
be just what we need." I hope this friend is still living, and if he will
write me his criticism of the work, it will be taken as a special favor.

This book has been written at the suggestion of many strong per-
sonal friends, and at the earnest solicitation of hundreds of others by
letter.

It must be borne in mind that the work has been done at odd mo-
ments and after the manner suggested above, consequently some may
criticise it for the many repetitions or too much stress being laid on
principles, natural laws and unerring -methods, but it is the author's
firm conviction that these very things will serve as monuments to his
memory, with those who will read the book and comply with its sug-
gestions.

For the want of a better name (at the suggestion of a personal
friend), it is christened HORSE SENSE, and it is the most sincere
desire of the author that the work or book fully justifies so good a name.

The questions and answers in the veterinary department are designed
to meet the wants of many who are not favored with having the veter-
inary surgeon at easy call, but it should be understood that where com-
petent veterinary skill can be had, the seriously sick horse should be
in his hands.

A grateful acknowledgement is hereby offered to those who have
assisted, encouraged and sustained the author in what they are pleased
to call a commendable labor for mankind, our horses and the country
generally.

J. C CURRYER.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY.

It was not my good fortune to have been born in a palace, nor with
a "gold spoon in my mouth," but in a humble log cabin on a farm in the
forest, one mile south of Palestine, Shelby county, Ohio, November 7th,
1837. My baby cradle was a sugar (sap) trough, and my advantages
were such as nature furnishes in the timber. School sessions were of
short duration and the teachers of the "beach-gad" order. My parental
grand parents emigrated from near White Hall, Baltimore county, Mary-
land, about 1810, to Ohio, and my maternal grand parents came from
Vermont. My association with and attachment for the horse, began
very early in life. Father being a stock dealer in horses, cattle, sheep
and hogs, I frequently accompanied him in gathering and taking his"
purchases to market.

I remained upon the farm until twenty-five years of age, when I stud-
ied medicine and dentistry ai-id practiced the latter for nearly a quarter
of a century, but during all the time, was never without from one, to
Over one hundred head of horses. With the exception of about five
years of all time, I have been closely connected with the farm, in breed-
ing horses, cattle and hogs, but principally the first, as my interest nat-
urally centered on the horse.

During 1887 I was prevailed upon to aid in the establishment of Min-
nesota Farmers' Institutes, with which I have been connected ever since.
My first work in this respect was in representing the horse interests on
the institute platform, in relation to breeding and educating the horse.
And as our work was new to the people, more or less prejudice ex-
isted against it. I volunteerd to handle any unbroken horse during the
noon hour to show the intelligence of the horse and how much could
be taught him in one hour. Out of one hundred and fifty-three horses
handled in this way, but one was made warm enough to sweat. The
streets during these exhibitions were generally crowded with the people
of the town and country to see what they pleased to term "the fun," but
they were often disappointed in this respect, as it was the invariable rule
to first gain the confidence of the horse, and the balance was so easy
that there was but little or no excitement about it.

Much of my life lias been spent in studying breeding questions and
the means, and especially the methods of controling our horses in ac-
cordance with the natural laws governing their actions, with a view of
aiding owners and handlers in getting along with their horses with the
least trouble and punishment, as well as to relieve the faithful horse of
much suffering from abuse.

INTRODUCTION.

Horse Sense is the result of nearly a lifetime's association with the
horse, in observing his character, the laws of reproduction, adaptation of
his conformation and nerve force for die varied uses required and the
natural laws that govern all his actions.

The character of horses, like that of men, is as varied as ancestral
endowment and environment can make their impressions on the organi-
zation. That the horse is an intelligent animal there can certainly be
no doubt in the present development and training of the animal. That
he is also endowed with propensities (it not sentiments) very similar to
those of man, there is ample proof sufBcient to satisfy the most incredu-
lous. The evolution of ihe horse demonstrates that by a strict conformity
to the laws of reproduction — "like begetting like or the likeness of some
ancestor" — that we are able to produce the varied types of horses for
the specific uses for which each is by nature best adapted.

While the character and breeding of horses is of great importance,
that of a useful education is ol equal, if not more, value. Has it ever
occurred to the reader that every duty, service, performance and require-
ment of the horse for our benefit, is the result of his education? Like
his owner or handler, he must first be shown, taught, and have explained
in an intelligent manner, how to perform the required duties, before he
can reasonably be expected to execute them well. He must not only
be taught what to do, but how to do it, and we all know from personal
experience, that we often have to practice a long time after we know
what to do, before we can perform the duty well. Then, should we
not have great patience with the horse in his education. When we stop
to consider that the horse is a mute (not able to talk), and that his
services require intelligence and education to be able to do them well,
does not the situation in its broad sense appeal to the sympathy and
superior ability of man. to educate this most valuable servant of hu-
manity in the best possible manner?

Horse Sense is intended to appeal to the good "common sense" of
men in all they have to do with horses, and especially in relation to the
"natural laws" which govern all the actions of horses. Unless we com-
prehend these laws and comply with them, we will make a dismal failure
of handling horses. Kindness, patience, perseverance, consistency of
method, practical applicatiow of means of control, and a close observ-
ance of the nature of the horse to be dealt with, will produce surprising
results. But if wc opperate in opposition to these natural laws and we

Vlll INTRODUCTION.

consider the horse only a "brute" to be yanked, kicked and beaten, at the
pleasure or passion of the handler, the good "common sense" of any
man would naturally decide that the results would be equally surprising
in an opposite direction, viz.: that an unreliable, dangerous and pos-
sibly viscious animal was made so by his trainer, instead of a good,
serviceable, trusty, faithful and reliable horse. One of two things
should be done for the good of our horses. They should be taught
in established schools for their education, as we have for our children's
training, or everybody who expects to handle horses should study the
horse; study his character; study the natural laws that govern his ac-
tions; work in conformity with these laws instead of against them, as
when we put a halter on a colt's head and then expect to pull him after
us without resistance. Everyone who ever "broke" a colt to the halter
knows what the colt will do if the halter is pulled upon. He knows
he will go backwards, but how many men ever stopped and candidly
considered what made him pull backwards'* The colt thinks he has got
his head into some kind of a trap and he knows but one way out of it,
and that is to go backwards and pull it out. This lesson alone should
be sufificient to demonstrate to us that we were working at the wrong
end of the colt — in part at least — for we find when we attach something
to the rear end of his body, he as naturally goes forward. Then is it
not good "common sense" as well as Horse Sense, to operate on the
rear end for forward movements and use the halter for direction? The
pivotal point of the horse's action is the center of his body in opposite
direction, and the sooner we learn this and always keep it in mind, the
better we will get along with our horses.

My attention to the capabilities of the horse in an educational way,
was when only a lad of ten years, with a strawberry roan mare that I
used for driving the cows to and from pasture. The mare soon demon-
strated that she had an interest in driving these cattle, as she seemed
to watch their movements very closely and was on the alert for any
"breaks" that any of them might make. She would stand and hold
the cattle while the bars were being let down, and if any one of them
offered to move out ot the way she was right after them. She was
always rewarded for her services with sugar, which she soon learned to
relish. She would sidle up to the fence for me to mount upon her bare
back, ard she soon learned to stand with her front feet upon the largest
boulders to be found, and some wee very large along the route.

When about thirteen years of age I accidentally discovered what has
since proved to my entire satisfaction, the natural laws governing the
actions of our horses, and it is surprising that it has not been well es-
tablished long ago, when the facts are so apparent to every handler
and trainer, that the horse always acts just the reverse from what is
generally expected, and, notwithstanding this, almost all horsemen still
persist in working along the same old lines, in opposition to this natural
law and then wonder why horses do as they do.

I have worked many years in farmers' institutes along this line, and
from the many kind greetings and the hundreds of letters received com-

INTKODrCTlON. iX

mending n:y efforts and constantly urging me to compile my work of
the Minnesota Horseman, Farmers' institute annuals and such other mat-
ter as would make a ready reference book, is what has stimulated mc in
the preparation of Horse Sense, with the sincere hope that those who
will study its pages carefully and comply with the "law," will be benefited
many times its cost.

The indulgence of the reader is solicited for the many repetitions,
crudeness of style, plain, simple, method and idiosyncrasy of the author,
as no attempt is made towards a scientific classical or professional pro-
duction, but a work of preventions rather than cures, that can be made
beneficial to the farmers (who raise the horses) and those who handle
horses, and especially for the comfort that may be rendered the noble
horse by better understanding him. ;(nd thereby giving better treatment
to man's greatest animal servant— the horse.

J. C CURRYER.

FORMER HORSE-BREEDING ESTABLISHMENT OF DR. J. C.

CURRYER & SONS, 3).; MILES SOUTHEAST OF

LAICE CRYSTAL, MINN.

This beautiful location was selected many years ago by the author
and his devoted wife, as a fitting place for the enjoyment of farm life,
the proper environments for bringing up a family of boys, and devoting
our future years to stock raising. Groves were planted, many wells
for stock-water sunk, buildings erected, paddocks and pastures arranged,
and the growth and development of the trees and stock were greatly
enjoyed up to the financial panic of 1893, when the horse business came
to a "stand still" — the very "bottom" of the enterprise "fell out," a dis-
astrous business-house fire, and other embarrassments, put a sudden
check to many of our cherished ambitions. But while the depreciation

MINNESOTA'S (PAST) HOME OP THE WILKES,

in values were great, the losses heavy, the disappointment a severe blow,
fondest hopes almost faded, nothing apparently "coming our way" for a
long time, yet at last a "bright star" of hope is now seen farther north-
ward, and we have secured what will serve our purpose better, where the
grasses grow more luxuriantly, running water and plenty of it, timber
for buildings and fencing on the place, and located just half way be-
tween the two great cities of the northwest, with the advantage of two
railroads.

The illustration gives the reader a good idea of the cherished old
farm, its groves, fields, buildings, wind-mills and stock, where we so
often greeted our friends and greatly enjoyed life. But it is still our sin-
cere desire and cherished hope that we may in the future as in the past,
welcome our friends to our new location (near Hinckley, ]\Iinn.), our
fir^^'de and farm table.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Scientific Breeding — Special Breeding for Uniformity of Conforma-
tion— Laws Controlling Service Stallions — Nature's Law, "Like
Produces Like," the True Principle — Horse Breeding and Defi-
nite Object — An Ideal Product Should be Desired — Mental and
Physical Characteristics — Defects are Transmitted — Adherance to
Type I

CHAPTER n.

Conformation of Legs — Deformities of Front and Hind Legs — The
Feet and Legs — Legs of Horses, Right and Wrong — Rear View
of Feet and Legs — Side View of Hind Quarters and Legs 5

CHAPTER in.

Types or Horses — A Typical Arabian — English Thoroughbred — War
Horses and Famous Chargers — The Morgan Horse — Potency in
Morgan Blood — Green Mountain Morgan 2nd — Ideal Light Har-
ness Horse — Security — Conquer Star — American Saddle Horse —
Saddle Horse and Change of Gait — Black Squirrel 2nd — General
Purpose Horse — All Purpose Stallion — All Purpose Brood Mare
— Rose Chief — American Carriage Stallion — The Carriage Brood
Mare — Comparison of Blocd Lines — Coach Horse Types —
French Coach Horse — American Bred Light Road Team — Pilot
Boy and Amelia — American Bred Heavy Carriage Horses —
American Coach or Carriage Team — The Draft Horse — Clydesdale
Stallion — Crossing of Breeds— Clydesdale Brood Mare — Percher-
on Stallion — Gilbert the Winner — Percheron Brood Mare and

Colt 10

CHAPTER IV.

Judging Horses 32

CHAPTER V.

Examining Horses — Sound Horses — Temporary Unsoundness — At
Rest and in Motion— Watch For Habits — The Horse's Head —
Discerning Defects — To Examine the Horse's Body 36

CHAPTER VI.

Examination Fcr Lameness— Find Cause — Where it .A.fifects 39

Xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

Selecting the Stallion— Size and Form for Purpose Required— Indi-
viduality of Type Considered— Crossing Jack and Mare— Cross-
ing Thoroughbred and Jenny. 43

CHAPTER VIII.

Wintering Stallions— Condition for Wintering— The Feet— Exercise-
Stallion Barn and Lot — Harness or Saddle Work — Winter Food
—Watering— Salt— Cleanliness— ^Management 45

CHAPTER IX.
The Stallion in Season— Regulating Services— Feeding— Handling-
Artificial Impregnation 5°

CHAPTER X.
Government Ownership of Stallions— Breeders" Associations 53

CHAPTER XI.

Selection and Care of Brood Alare— Conformation — Pedigree — In-
Breeding— Haphazard Breeding — The Brood Mare and Stallion
—Time to Breed— Early Grass — Examination of Womb— Trying
the Mare — Treatment of Mare in Foal — Food For Mare in Foal
— Time of Foaling — Care of Young Foal 54

CHAPTER XII.

Hereditary Traits of Horses — Plabi'.s 63

CHAPTER XIII.
Horses in the United States— The Number and Valuation of— En-
couragement to the Breeders 65

CHAPTER XIV.

Farmers as Horse Breeders— The Stallion Half the Herd— Mixing
Breeds— The Farm Horse — Draft Horses for the Farm — Power

—Draft Brood Mare 66

CHAPTER XV.

Intelligence of the Horse— Education— ^vlemory— Sugar for the Nerv-
ous Horse— The Horse and His Instructor— Examples of Intelli-
gence and Thought 69

CHAPTER XVI.

Horse Education — Horses are Naturally Timid and Sensative — The
Horse a Slave to Humanity— The Horse Considered Only a
Brute — The Horse Naturally Submissive— The Horse is Endowed
with Intelligence and Passions— Useful Every-day Lessons Rather
Than Tricks— Representative Heads of Horses — Extent of the
Horse's Capacity for Learning — Fidelity of the Horse to His
Master— Remembrance of Wrongs— Right Treatment— Underly-

CONTENTS. Xlll

ing Principles — To Catcli tiic Young Foal— Handling the Young
Colt 74

CHAPTER XVII.

Horse \'ocabulary 80

CHAPTER XVIII.
Get the Confidence of Little Colts 83

CHAPTER XIX.

Fisrt Lessons in Harness — The Old Horse Teacher — Harsh Bits —
The Kindergarten — Driving— Early Lessons — .\rrangement of
-Attachments of Colts 87

CHAPTER XX

Home Made Cart — For Driving Colts or Unruly Horses — For Hand-
ling the Runaway or Kicker — For Learning to Turn Round 91

CHAPTER XXI.

Controlling Horses Through the Mouth — Safety Bridle — The Bow-
Bow-Line Knot — Adjusting Safety Bridle— Don't Drag or Saw
the Rope Through the Horse's Mouth— The Yankee Bridle —
Single or Double — Teaching Horse to Hold Head Low to be
Bridled — Treating Horse with Sore Neck — The Hard-Bitted
Horse — Different Forms of Rope to Head — Teaching Colt to
Yield up His Feet 93

CHAPTER XXII.

Combinations of Three — Three Lessons — Three Tortures — Three
Conditions of Feet — Three Enemies to Feet — Three Points in
Care — Three Factors in Condition — Three Points in Getting the
Good Will — Three Causes of Fear — Three Safeguards — Unreliable
Horses — To Catch the Horse — Grooming the Horse — Standing
When Hitching Up — Stand After Hitching — Nervous After
Hitched — After a Hard Drive 102

CHAPTER XXIII.

Use and Abuse of Over-head Check — As Nature Made Us — Grace
and Beauty Spoiled — A Lesson in Contrast — Applied as Punish-
ment to Criminals — Horses Suffered — A Sermon to Horse Own-
ers 105

CHAPTER XXIV.

A Good Mouth — Tender Mouth — Tongue-Lolling — Crossing Jaws-
Effects of Bad Mouths— Bridle Bits— Carefully Select the Bridle
and Horse — The Teeth — Caps of Temporary Teeth — Wearing of
Teeth 109

XIV CONTEXTS.

CHAPTER XXV.

Fitting Collar to Horse— Each Horse Should Have His Collar —
Large Collars — Form of Collar — Adjustment of Hame-Tug —
Soaking Collars — Hame-Straps— Clean Shoulders and Collar 114

CHAPTER XXVI.

Natural Foot of Horse — The Frog and Sole Protect the Foot —
Ground Surface of Good Feet — Ground Surface of Contracted
Feet — Ground Surface and Wall of Foundered Foot — The Colt's
Feet 118

CHAPTER XXVn.

Shoeing and its Efifects i^i

CHAPTER XXVni.

Feeding Horses— Variety of Food— Too ]Much Hay — Must be Fed
with Care — Rations for Horses in London — Feeding Cavalry
Horses — Mortality from all Causes — Aluscle-Making Food and
Exercise for Colts — Idleness and Fat — Ration for Weanling
and Older Colt — Bran and Bran-Mashes 127

CHAPTER XXIX.

Fattening Horses for Market— Corn— Glauber Salts— Oil Meal —
Floating the Teeth — Stuffing Process — Feeding Work Horses —
Water Before Feeding — Over-Feeding — Idle Horses — An Ex-
periment— Economic Feeding — Feeding and Health — Feeding
Little Colts — Grow Frame-work of Colts — Weanling Colts and
Water — Exercise the Colts — Weaning Colts — Skim Milk 131

CHAPTER XXX.

Devices for Controlling Horses — Education in the Stall — The Halter-
Puller — A Mere String — Kicking and Pawing — The Horse Shack-
eled in His Stall — Backing the Horse 138

CHAPTER XXXL

Controlling Horse by His Tail — Run-away in a Circle — Poling the
Horse — Fastening Tie-Strap to Tail — Tying Halter-Strap to Tail
— Making Horse Familiar with Objects — Shackeling — Tieing
Legs 14^

CHAPTER XXXII.

Picketing Horses — Controlling Hind Feet in Shoeing — Inducing

Horse to Hold Leg Up — Position in Shoeing 153

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Handling Mature Horses — Handling by the Head — Stallion Bridle —
Manner of Adjusting— A Good, Cheap Riding Bridle— Handling
Umbrella on Horseback 15&

CONTENTS. XV

CIIAI'II'.R XXXIV.

Power of Man Over Horse — Laying the Horse Down — Makinp a

Circingle with Rope — The Horse in Tronble — In Greater Trouljle 164
CHAPTER XXXV.

HancUing by the Legs — Reins to Legs Better Than to Bits — Applied
to Kicker — Hitching Kicker to Wagon — Driving Kicker Douljle
— The Vicious Kicker — Kicking Attachment for Single or Doul)le
Harness— Halter Attachment for Kicker, Trotter, Pacer or Run-
away 1 73

CHAPTER XXXVI.
Switcher and Rein-Catcher 185

CHAPTER XXXVII.
T!ie Balky Horse— How to Treat Him 188-

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Mischief in the Stomach — Too Aluch Water After Feeding — Water in
the Field — Too Much Water at a Time — Dieting Horses — Rest
When Ailing — Drenching Horses — The Horse and Injection —

Watch the Feet— The Hay Manger— Where to Feed Grain 194.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

' Miscellaneous Receipts — For Colic — Flatulent Colic — Diarrhoea —
Scours — Scours in Young Foal — Slavering — Expttlsion of Bots —
Indigestion — Worms — Pin Worms— Dry Cough — Chronic Cough
— Bran-Mash — Cough Mash — Sprains and Old Swellings —
Swelled Legs — Foot-Sore Horses — Fevered Legs — Cracked Heels
— Removal of Warts — Body Wash — Disenfectants for Wounds —
Charcoal Tar — Sugar as an Antiseptic — Fence Wire Cuts —
Scratches — Wash for Old Sores — Wash for Mange — Grease Heel
— Thrush — For Splint — Itching Humor — Lice — Galls— Carriage-
Top Dressing — Kerosene Emulsion for Harness — Old Straps
Made Soft — Care of Harness 200

CHAPTER XL.

Questions and Answers at Farmers' Institutes — Questions Answered by
the Author — Hitching Horse by Tail in Fly Time — When to
Break Colt — To Harness and Drive the Colt — To Handle Vis-
cious and Tricky Horses — Why Have Horses Bad Legs? — Treat-
ment for Scours — Care of Colt's Feet — Cutting Frog and Sole-
Rasping Horn of Hoof — Spring T. vs. Straight Pasterns — Stalls
Check-Rein and Blinders — Why Use Over-Head Check Tight? —
Biting — Crowding Keeper in the Stall — Make Horse Hold up
H';'?-!— Preventing "Bucking" — Teaching to Back — Tieing Head
and T^il — The Halter-Puller — Handling the "Broncho" — Calts at
Weenir.g T^me— Colts the First Winter— Wild Hay for Horses—

XVI CONTEXTS.

Ground Barley— Water when Warm— Raising Colts at a Profit—

A Frightened Horse ^ 210

CHAPTER XLI.

Questions Answered by Dr. M. H. Reynolds — Grain Rations for a
Working Horse — For an Idle Horse — Hay for Horses — Kick on
Hock Cap — Colts Dying Soon After Birth — To Kill Lice on
Horses — Heaves — Cure for Poll-Evil — Colts and Lice — Oat
Straw for Idle Horses — Colic — Moon-Eyed Horses — Is Cob Meal
and Oats for Horses — Millet Hay for Work Horses — Barley for
Colts — Barley Straw for Horses — Should Hay or Grain be Fed
First? — Bleeding Tumor on Foot near Fetlock — Sampers — Con-
dition Powders — Watering While Warm — Ring-Bone and Spav-
ins— Incipient Spavin — Cooked Food for Horses — Feeding Work
Horses — Paralysis — Collar Galls — Mange — Stocked Legs — Knaw-
ing Feed Boxes — Feeding Salt — Chronic Grease Heel — Feeding
Mare in Foal — Bit for Hard Mouth — Lice on Colt — Sore Eyes —
What is the Cause and Cure — Rubbing tails 215

CHAPTER XLII.

Questions Answered by Dr. S. D. Brimhall — Contracted Feet —
Sweeney — Ring-Bone — Heaves — Glanders 200

CHAPTER XLIII.

Questions Answered by Dr. R. M. Dodds — Ulcerated Tooth — Puffed
and Swollen Shoulder — Azoturia — Barb Wire Cut — PufTs on
Hock Joint — Puff on Pastern Joint — Bog Spavin — Running Sore
on Horse's Neck — Sweeney — Splints — Scratches — Shoe Boil —
Wind-Galls — Warts — Grease Heel — Ring-Bone — Bone-Spavin —
Quarter-Crack — "Prick" of the Sole — Hoof-Bound Feet — Stom-
ach Worms 222

APPENDIX.

KINDERGARTEN WORK FOR LITTLE COLTS.— Betsy Teh
Used for Object Lessons — Natural Laws of Animal Life — Age
to Begin Training the Colt — Horse Intelligence — Horse's Won-
derful Memory— When and How to Begin With the Colt— Han-
dle the Colt All Over — Secure the Colt's Entire Confidence —
Educating the Colt to the Halter — Educating the Colt to Back —
Driving the Young Colt With Lines — Educating the Colt to Stop
— Laying the Young Colt Down — Teach the Colt Useful Lessons
Only — A Choice Vocabulary for the Colt — Specific Words for
Definite Actions — A Ten Word Horse Vocabulary — Confusion
Must Be Avoided — Make Lessons of Short Duration — No Sud-
den Movements — Never Frighten theColt — Use and Abuse of the
Whip — Never Whip and Jerk at the Same Time — Mutual Under-
standing 227

CHAPTER I.

SCIENTIFIC BREEDING.

Science involves methods of acquiring knowledge; methods of or-
ganizing knowledge acquired with experience. Methods demonstrate
the digested experience of men and result in what is known as "com-
mon sense." the accumulation of which can properly be called knowledge
arranged in order-science.

Common-sense breeding is as nearly applied science as we can de-
fine the subject. Webster says, applied science is a knowledge of the
facts or phenomena as produced by means of causes or laws. The laws
of generation, in the very nature of things, are not, and can never be,
reduced to a mathematical science. Scientific breeding, therefore, is
simply keeping within the lines possessing the strongest demonstrated
inheritance of all tlie qualities desired in the offspring, and when we
come to understand the matter, there will be nothing regarded as mys-
terious about scientific breeding. It is common-sense breeding, or the
production of what is wanted fiom animals possessing the desired char-
acteristics for many generations back with the least variation.

SPECIAL LINE BREEDING FOR UNIFORMITY OF CONFOR-
MATION.

Two hundred and fifty years' breeding (never out-crossing) from
the survival of the fittest in the running-horse line, has demonstrated
that we have attained the greatest degree of perfection that the world
has ever known, both in quality of animals and production of speed;
and when we consider the development of the American trotter and
oacer, and the close application of that great natural law of "like pro-
ducing like," our production of performers is simply an astonishment
to all other countries — and all this has been accomplished practically
within the past quarter of a century. But if the question is asked,
what particular horse was able to transmit this wonderful inheritance?
no one is to be found who is able to answer satisfactorily. Yet the
accumulative force along the same line increases in its onward course,
as the little brook in its wanderings towards the mighty ocean becomes
a great river. To make further improvement in size, style, action, color,
or any other desirable quality, the same rules and common sense must
be complied with, within the type, line of performance, or breed. Cross-
ing any of the diftercnt types or breeds with a view of scientific improve-
ment is tampering with uncertainties, and should be characterized as at-

2 HORSE SENSE.

tempted science witliout sense, logic without reason; a move backwards,
instead of forwards: a tearing dow^n of the work of improvement that
those before have labored for generations to establish. Very serious,
if not irreparable, damage is often done by one injudicious out-cross.
Then how important it is that we should have some systematic way of
investigating all of our breeding problems.

STATE OR GOVERNMENT LAWS CONTROLLING SERVICE
STALLIONS.

If the principles of common-sense breeding cannot be maintained
by mutual consent, through a state breeders' association, or other so-
cieties, tlien we should have an enactment of law that will prohibit the
us of any but the best of sires for public service. The public demands
horses of size, style, substance, action, symmetry of conformation, with
as nearly perfect feet and legs as possible, and how are we to comply
with this demand unless we make a strenuous effort to breed what is
wanted? To do this, no unsound, blemished, ill-shaped, irregular-gaited
or bad-dispositioned stallion should be permitted public service. We
have enough good sires and dams to make a great showing, if they were
selected and brought together in their proper relation; but so long as
the force of this matter is not fully considered, the crossroads, nonde-
script stallion will be used, and the country, as well as the individual,
must suffer the irremediable consequence.

NATURE'S LAW OF "LIKE PRODUCING LIKE." THE TRUE
PRINCIPLE.

That fundamental natural law of "like begetting like, or the like-
ness of some ancestor," must never be lost sight of in any of the lines
of breeding. The most common error committed is, that the remote
ancestral inheritance is lost sight of by most breeders; they confine
themselves to an examination of the immediate ancestors only, when
an acquaintance with the remote progenitors is of much greater im-
portance in what they are trying to accomplish.

If the progeny would always take after the immediate parents, then
the question of breeding w-ould be easy, and almost anyone could make
progress. But when we see the produce taking back after some remote
ancestor possessing undesirable qualities, then it is that we often hesitate,
and even doubt our own observations.

HORSE-BREEDERS MUST HAVE A DEFINITE OBJECT IN
VIEW.

Breeders to be very successful must know positively all about the
breeding animals that ihey are using, and to do this successfully they
must be familiar with the records and performance of these animals.
Many a breeder, from neglect to register his animals, has lost untold
advantages to himself and others who would like to use his breeding
stock. The registry is the only safe means of perpetuating the good
qualities of the breeds, and is the only safe guide to purchasers in tracing
the antecedents of their own or others' animals; and until we direct our

HOKSK SENSE. 6

attention to this, as well a^ to tlic merits of the individual, we will be
making but little headway in inii>r()\ inj; any of our breeding stock.

"Biology treats of living matter, and the study of living tissue. It
has to do with the origin, structure, development, function and dis-
tribution of animals — the science of life in its widest acceptation — scien-
tific inquiries into the first origin of life and the changes it has under-
gone from the earliest traceable neriod until now;" consequently the
importance of the breeder knowing just what he is doing.

AN IDEAL PRODUCTION .SHOULD BE KEPT IN MIND.

The breeder should luive ;i definite object in view. He should have
an ideal production in his mind, and every move he makes should con-
form to that object ami the law of reproduction. To breed horses suc-
cessfully, we must bring applied science (common sense) to our aid and
direction. When the laws of horse breeding are fully understood, we
will have fewer "offs" than we now have perfections; it will be just as
easy to distinguish the difTerent breeds of horses as it is now the several
types of cattle — as the Shorthorn, Devon, Holstein or Jersey.

MENTAL AS WELL AS PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS MUST
BE MAINTAINED.

There is this difference between horse and cattle breeding: The
horse, in addition to his physical constitution, has a mental organiza-
tion that must be studied and maintained in relation to his education
and duties. I' is much easier to improve the bodily defects than those
of the mental characteristics.

The foundation rock upon which to build a permanent improvement
in horse breeding must be based on soundness in all breeding animals,
both near and remote, for the strong reason, that all defects or unsound-
ness are just ab transmissible as the meritorious qualities.

DEFECTS AND WEAKNESS ARE TRANSMITTED TO THE
OFFSPRING.

At breeding time the sire and dam should be most scrutinizingly ex-
amined for defects, conformation, size, style, color, gait, coat, skin,
mane and tail, character of feet and legs, muscular power, digestive ca-
pacity, stam.ina and intelligence. Each and every part should be care-
fully weighed, and if not foimd to be well adapted to each other, then
look further for breeders, as it will not pay to produce undesirable, un-
salable, good-for-nothing animals. The weak places or parts should
be strengthened, rather than to try to make the strong ones stronger.
Weakness of a similar character in both sire and dam is almost sure to
be still weaker in the ofifspring.

SELECT A SPECIAL TYPE AND STAY WITH THAT TYPE.

Now, to sum the whole matter up in a "nutshell:" Select the type
of horses desired, and then choose the strongest of the type, all things
considered, and confine your operations to the type decided on. If it
is runners, take the best of the thcroughbreds, and stay by them. If

4 HORSE SENSE.

it is trotters and pacers, there are plenty to make selections from, and
stay there. Il it is draft horses of any of the established breeds, you
can make good and careful selections out of them, and confine your breed-
ing to that class. If your choice happens to be with the coachers, you
can possibly find those that will fill the bill, and reproduce themselves:
but this last is the hardest to maintain, as the fashions are constantly
changing with the fastidious people who are the buyers. Saddle horses
will in time become a luxury, and they will not be hard to find, as they
are well established in their gaits, and breed with great uniformity; but
they, too, must be kept within their line and breeding, for improve-
ment.

HORSE BREEDING SHOULD INTEREST EVERYBODY.

Reader, will you kindly consider this breeding subject in its true
light, and from now on give it the attention that it justly deserves, for
the interest you have in it, the interest your neighbor has in it, the in-
terest your country has in horse improvement, and also the great ad-
vantages that will accrue to the country if we can attract foreign buyers.

WAKE UP.

"Wake up, you dormant breeders.

Who've been sleeping for past years.
Strike out anew — the night has passed —

The morning light appears.
The times have changed; cash buyers now

Are scouring east and west,
Ready to lay their ducats down

For horses of the best.
The horse with size and action,

Well formed, with color right,
Is hard to find, but when he's found

The price they will not fight.
The scarcity of horses soon

Will open up your eyes;
The prices that the fine ones bring

Will fill you with surprise.
There's money in horse-breeding now;

By the time your colt is five
You'll find he's 'lasses in the jug,

And honev in the hive."

CHAPTER II.

RIGHT AND WRONG COXFORAIATION OF THE HORSE'S
LEGS.

The feet and legs of the liorse hold about the same relation to his
general usefulness that the "running gear"" does to the wagon. If the
axles are sprung, the wheels dished, and one wheel docs nut follow an-
other (don't track, as it were), the wagon will run heavy, is not strong,
and is really a failure for the purposes intended; and it is just about the
same with, a horse that has deformed legs, or if they are hung to the body
in a twisted condition. He will move awkwardly; he is always interfer-
ing, or is not strong and durable. The illustrations represent the differ-
ent conditions better than we can describe them in cut Xo. i. Numbers
I and 8 show how the front and hind legs should be attached to the body.

\z

?^-#-

13 14

10 11

Cut No. I.
SIMILAR DEFORMITIE.'^ OF BOTH FRONT AND HIND LEGS.

6

HORSE SENSE.

Numbers 2 and 9 show the knees, hocks and ankles too close together.
Numbers 3 and 10 show the legs nearer in line, but twisted, — toeing out
behind and in front. Numbers 6 and 13 show that the feet are too wide
apart, and the horse, of necessity, must be a sprawling mover. In num-
bers 7 and 14 the knees and hocks are bent outwardly and the feet in-
ward. All these conditions, except numbers i and 8, are to be avoided
where improvement in breeding is aimed at, and the less of any of these
deviations from the right and true formation the better for usefulness of
the animal.

In other words, any deviation from the best form is to be regarded
with suspicion, and, to be fully comprehended, the following illustrations
will serve as object lessons, in the comparison of mares and stallions,
with a view of mating for improvement.

THE FEET AND LEGS OF THE HORSE CONSTITUTE THE
RUNNING GEAR.

As the feet and legs of our horses constitute their "running gear,"
their means of locomotion, we will first take a look at the front legs,
in which cut No. 2 shows five sets of legs; only one set of which should
be regarded as of good form.

JK jy \j ^hi

U.y

'if 1

' n 1

!!

y 111 A

Pig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. Fig. 1 Fig. 5.

Cut No. 2.
LEGS OF HORSES Sll.'iW IXG RIGHT AND WRONG.
Fig. I (one the left side) drop true from the body, knees and toes

HOKSK SKNSE. 7

square to tlio front, and alxun tlic sanu' clistanco apart on the inside, at
the arms and at tiic ankles.

Fig 2 is where llie lues inrn in, whieh generally produces an awkward
Tnovement and inclination to "forge" or strike the hind shoes against
the front feet or shoes in trotting.

Fig 3 shows the feet wide apart, which, also, makes an awkward
mover, and a like disposition to "forge" and also to "stumble."

Fig. 4 represents the toes turning out, the twist in the leg being
at the knee. This is a Iiad conformation in movement, and the liability
to interfere at the ankles.

Fig. 5 shows a l:ke deformity to that of Fig 4, only worse, as the
twist is at the elbow instead of at the knee, and when the legs are close
to-gether (and they generally are), the ankles, tendons and knees sufTer
from interference, and can only be remedied by "boots." Many of our
speedy trotting and pacing horses "toe out," and as a consequence, w^e
see them "booted" from hoof to elbow for protection.

BE SURE OF SPRINGY PASTERNS, WHEN EITHER LONG OR
SHORT.

The front legs should stand well under the horse, from both a side
and front view, and there should be a nice, easy spring at the "pastern."
Straight "pasterns" (from a side view) are objectionable on account of
the jar to the supporting column of bones. The illustration, Cut No. 3,
shows the side view with a line running in the center of the fore leg to
the ground just at the heel. The dotted line running through the cen-
ter of the foot and pastern, gives about the proper angle for sufficient
spring in the pastern to save the jars to the column of bones. It had
better be more rather than less springy.

Cut No. 3.

A— OUTSIDE OF SOLE AND FROG. B— INSIDE OF SOLE AND

FROG. C— PROPER ANGLE OF PASTERN AT SIDE VIEW.

Ilhistration A. cut No. 3. shnws the outer sole and frog, width of the
foot and general appearance when fitted with a plain shoe.

8

HORSE SENSE.

Illustration B, gives a very good idea of the appearance of the inside
of the horny wall, floor or sensitive sole and frog.

C, shows a side view of the foot, pastern, ankle and cannon. The
perpendicular line thro'.igh the middle of the cannon or front leg, shows
where it should come in contact with the ground for the best results.
The dotted line shows that the angle of the foot and pastern are about
the same — =o degrees.

g. 6. Fig. r. Fig. 8. Fig. 9.

Cut No. 4.
REAR VIEW OF THE HIND LEGS AND FEET.

Cut 4 shows four sets of hind legs from the rear view, none of which
could be properly termed perfect.

Fig. 6 shows the toes turned outward, which indicates not only a
weakness, but the action cannot be smooth and easy. Fig. 7 is a case
where the toes are turned inward, which also makes an awkward moving
animal, with a tendency to "forge," (except the body of the horse is
very long). Fig. 8 shows the hind legs too close together, which gives
a tendency to "interfere" at the ankles, as also to "forge." Fig. 9 is a
case where the hind feet are too far apart, which not only makes an awk-
ward mover, but the tendency is to work the back too much in traveling,
and consequently the animal soon gets tired.

Cut 5 shows I'liur ?
we would call poifoct.

nOKSK SENSE. 9

I liiiul ligs from a sitic view, none of whicli

Fig. 10.

Fig. 13.

Fig. 11. Fig. le.

Cut No. 5.
SIDE VIEW OF THE HIND QUARTERS AND HIND LEGS.

Fig. 10 shows an unbalanced conformation; the legs are too far back
of the body, which makes an extra strain on the back, and the hind
legs are dragged after the horse, rather than serving as propellers. Fig.
II is nearly as bad a conformation as the former (Fig. 10), and stands
too straight on his pasterns. He will not drag his hind legs cjuite as
much as the other, but he will almost drive his hind feet into the ground
in trotting, which gives a terrible jar to the bones of the legs. Fig. 12
is a case where the legs are well under the body, but so straight through-
out that the m.ovcment can neither be easy or springy. Fig 13 is the
best poise of the hind legs for the support of the body, but they are
also too straight to wear well or glide over the surface smoothly. The
pasterns in all, are too straight even if the legs were properly joined to
the bodv.

CHAPTER III.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF HORSES AND THEIR GENERAL
CHARACTER.

In treating of the different types of horses here, it must be borne in
mind that only a passing notice can be given, but enough to give the
reader a definite idea that there is a great difference and that each have
their place for the duties required. We must select the type best suited
for the work to be performed with the least wear and tear on the con-
stitution of the animal, and as our very best and greatest improvements
in the equine race started with the horses of the desert — the Arabian,
it is only justice to this noble animal, that we begin here.

THE ARABIANS HAVE QUALITY, INTELLIGENCE, ACTIVITY
AND ENDURANCE.

The foot of the Arab horse is round and large, with a hard, tough
wall. The bones of the pastern-joint are fine, oblique and springy. The
cannon-bones are short and fine in proportion to the back sinews, but
have never been known to break down. The knees and hocks are
broad, clean cut and very strong. The shoulders are well clothed with
muscle, but the hind quarters are much narrower than in our horses.
The line of the hind quarter is finer, action freer and the upper thigh
longer than the English thoroughbred. In body the Arab is much
like the thoroughbred (the .source of the latter) e.xcept shorter in the
back and possibly higher at the croup, the tail "coming out high up.
The barrel is round, deep at the girth, with shoulders as good as any
horse, and forearms standing out with unusual prominence. The head
of the Arabian horse looks larger than that of the thoroughbred, chiefly
on account of the depth and spread of the jowl-width between the jaw
bones, giving plenty of room for the windpipe and an easy poise and
freedom of motion to the head. The forehead is prominent, the muzzle
fine and eyes large, and very mild in expression. The ears are fine and
beautifully shaped, though not what would be called small. The neck
of the x\rab is light and fine, with the head attached at a different angle
from the thoroughbred. The style of the Arab horse is something very
striking, with head and tail carried with such grace and character that
must be seen to be appreciated. The pure bred Arabian is a low, easy
gaited horse, and is good at the walk, trot or gallop, but the trot is but
little indulged in with the Arab. In disposition, the Arabian horses
are gentle and affectionate— familiar to almost the degree of being

HOK si-

ll

troublesome-. Tlicy have no fear ui man whatever, for they do not un-
derstand thai they are to be hurt. This extreme gentleness and courage
is inherited, and the yming colt never thinks of getting on the other
side of it? dam for protection, as ours often do.

Cut Xo. 0.
A TYPICAL ARABIAN.

This fine illustration of a typical Arabian horse gives a good idea of
what fine quality this race of horses possess. No wonder there is so
much said about reinforcing the blood of our horses by a return to the
Arab, and we can here readily see why all breeders are so proud to be
able to trace the lineage of their horses to that of the Arabian-Breeders
of all classes of horses strive to trace theirs back to this noble race.

The Arabian horse in his native country, is never viscious, shies or
shows signs of fear, nor wince at fire arms. In these respects they are
very different from other horses. The colts are handled by the chil-
dren and played with from birth. They are ridden by the boys of light
weight at one year old, and this assists in making them very kind and
gentle. The only objection that can possibly be brought against the
Arabian horse is his size. He is small, but their strength and endur-
ance is almost beyond comprehension, as they igo surprisingly long dis-
tances under heavy weights without tiring. They may be ridden day

12 HORSE SENSE.

after day, with only grass for feed and yet they do not lose courage or
condition, and are ready to gallop at the end of a long journey.

The Arabs never ride stallions when in war, as they are more apt
to neigh and apprize the enemy of their location or presence.

The principle colors are bay, grey, chestnut, brown or black. Roan,
piebald, duns, cream and calico are not to be found among the pure
Arabians.

In conclusion, let it be fully understood that inch for inch, the Arabian
liorses are superior to any other type lor the uses to which they are by
nature adapted.

The description of the Arabian horses will apply well to that of the
others to follow, with the exceptions of size and development for the
duties to be performed. The Arabian standing at the head in intelli-
gence, quality, endurance, courage and docility, he is naturally placed
at the head of the list of types of horses.

Tradition states that Ishmael, the son of Abraham, who, when he
was turned out of his father's tent, captured a mare that he found run-
ning wild and made her his companion, which gave him the honor of
being the first tamer and trainer of horses.

Represented in cut No. 6, is a typical Arab horse, which the reader
will do well to examine carefully and compare with the description.

GENERALS OF EUROPE FORMERLY RODE ARABL\N
HORSES.

"In the wars of the first Napoleon, the French officers captured the
most valiant of their battle steeds from the Arabs. Napoleon's most
famous charger was a pure white, pure bred Arabian stallion. Alarengo,
the famous white horse that Napoleon rode at Waterloo, was a pure bred
A''abian. This is the war horse that the great artist Vernet represents
the great Corsican as riding, in his immortal painting of "Napoleon
Crossing the Alps.' But there are no more Marengoes in Arabia today.
The race is fast dying out with the degeneracy of the Arabs.

ENGLISH THOROUGHBRED.

This type of horses has been bred for many, many generations for
the specific purpose of running a given distance in the shortest possible
tim.o, and have never been outcrossed. They are bred from the survival
of the fitest only, and whenever a reinforcement of the blood is required,
the original .Arabian or Ba'-b sire is resorted to. The thoroughbred is
never crossed with the Morgan, Hambletonian, Mambrino Chief, Hack-
ney, French coach, or draft breeds witii a thought of improving the
speed of the runner.

FORM FOR A SPECIFIC PURPOSE.

Form for the purpose, together with nerve force and the actual per-
formance at running, are the requisites of the breeder of thoroughbreds.

The illustration of "Imported Glencoe," the Greyhound dog, "Min-
neapolis," and the fighting cock. "Jack, the Ripper" (Cut No. 7). make

HORSK SKNSH. 13

tlirec of a kind — all s-'anu-stt. rs 1)uill on a 'plan for active work, and
the rcadtr will nnu> the similarity -vf fonii in horse and dog.

Cut No. 7.

"Imp. Glencoe," "Minneapolis." and rooster, "Jack, the Ripper."

THREE OF A KIND, ALL GAMESTERS.

Many of these horses have become noted on the turf as well as on
the fields of battle.

WAR HORSES AND FAMOUS CHARGERS.

At the battle of Waterloo, the duke of Wellington rode that great
thoroughbred horse, "Copenhagen," and Lord Cardigan, mounted on
the chestnut thoroughbred, "Ronald," led the charge of the famous
"600" at Balaklava. But where are the "Copenhagens" and "Ronalds"
of today? Echo answers, all dead.

Gen. Grant's favorite horse, "Cincinnati," Gen. Lee's, "Telegraph,"
and the fated Gen. Custer's "Frog Town," all carried a large percent-
age of thoroughbred blood.

THE MORGAN TYPE OF HORSES POSSESSED MANY VALU-
ABLE CHARACTERISTICS.

Morgan horses in the United States (their native home) for a long
time in the history of the country, and especially in the New England
states, stood out prominently as next to the Arabian horse in courage.

14

HORSE SENSK

intelligence, style and endurance, but like the Arab horse, the greatest
objection was his size.

POTENCY OF ^lORGAN BLOOD SHOWS MERIT IN BREED-
ING.

The prepotenc}- of the ]\iorgan blood, shows itself as prominently
down through many generations of outcrossing as that of any other type
of our horses. The characteristics of form, style, prompt action and
endurance is still manifest more particularly in the admixture with the
descendents of old Messenger, the remote fountain of the trotting horses
of today. A combination of Hambletonian, lo, Mambrina Chief, ii, and
almost any branch of the Morgan families, gives compactness of form,
rapid aciion, level head, good finish and graceful carriage. By careful
analysis of many of our best pcformers in harness races of today, will
be found the combination above represented, added to this will be found
the thorousfhbred blood, of many different strains.

Cut No. 8.
GREEN MOUNTAIN MORGAN 2ND.
The illustration of the general appearance, compactness of form,
style and conformation, etc., is best shown in cut No. 8, of Green ]\Ioun-
tain Morgan 2nd, of which this is said to be an excellent likeness, and
was sired by Gififord Morgan, by Woodbury Morgan, by old Justin
Morgan: dam by Woodbury Morgan, by old Justin Morgan. He was
an inbred Morgan, and one of the handsomest of the race; foaled 1834,
14^ hands high, and weighed i.ioo pounds.

HORSE SENSE.

IDEAL LIGHT HARNESS HORSE.

15

W'liile the cut No. 8'/^ gives a good idea of the type, it does not do
the individual justice. This house was owned by the author until more
th?.n twenty-five years old, and a more perfect or ideal form for the
purpose, better, more intelligent and safer individual would be almost
impossible to find. He is registered in Wallace's first volume of the
American Trotting Register, under the name of Security, and he was
rightly named. Like David Harum's horse, a "woman could drive
him as well as a man." But unlike his horse, he never balked. The

Cut No. 814.

SECURITY.

Beauty, quality and character combined.

wife of the author preferred to drive him to any other of fifty or more
horses on the farm, as he w^as absolutely safe, day or night. He was
all that could be desired in ideal form, road qualities and character; but
he was not bred right to be able to perpetuate these very meritorious
qualities. He was the result of two very different prepotent types of
horses, and he had taken on the good qualities of both, but was un-
able to transmit to his progeny, what he himself had inherited. He
was a cross of the Morgan and thoroughbred types and his colts were
never equal to the sire. Out of fifty or more of our own raising,

16

HORSE SENSE.

scarcely any two were of the same type. One going towards the thor-
oughbred, and another to the Morgan, and so on, which made his work
as a sire very unsatisfactory, and still he got many good horses, but of
no specific type. He was greatly enjoyed by the family as a grand
good horse, but a disappointment as a breeder.

Cut No. 9.
THE PURE-BRED ORLOFF TROTTING MARE BAJADERKA.
This fine specimen of the Orlofif breed shows indications of the care
in which the Russians have maintained the color and general type of the
grey Arab while increasing the size. This class of horses is prized very
highly in their native country, and many of them are great trotters.

HORSE SENSE.

i";

THE RUSSIAN OR ORLOFF TYPE OF HORSES.

These elegant horses of Russia, are from carefully preserved descend-
ents of the pure bred Arabian sires, taken to Russia for the improve-
ment of their light carriage and saddle horses, and are worthy of notice
here. They are much improved in size without losing much of the
quality and beauty of the Arabian. For an object lesson, the reader is
referred to cut No. 9, which speaks for itself better than words can
describe.

NATURE'S LAW OF SELECTION VERIFIED.

Here is an illustration, cut No. 10, of what the American trotting
family of horses should be brought to — horses of size, style, symetry,
substance and action — and when they have the desired speed, they will
bring all the money one has the conscience to ask. If they lack the
speed, then we may have the grand carriage horses demanded in the
markets at long prices. If they have neither the speed or fancy style,
they will make excellent roadsters or splendid farm horses of the active
type.

Cut No. 10.
CONQUERER STAR (2:23), BY NELSON (2:09).

18 HORSE SENSE.

If the American people had given the attention to this type of ani-
mals, rather than to speed without regard to type, then we would have
today ideality in form, grandure in style, intelligence almost human, size
to suit the varied tastes and poetry of motion. Cut No. lo is a good
representation of Conquerer Star, two-year-old record, 2:2;^ — sired by the
great Nelson, record 2:09 trotting. His dam. Bright Star, by Star-
light. His grand dam, Violet, by Volunteer. His great-grand sire,
Tom Rolfe. a son of the famous Pocahontas, that took a pacing record
to wagon nearly fifty years ago of 2:i7li. We have here a combina-
tion of Hambletonian, Mambrino Chief, and Morgan blood, with the
pacer added, which today is so harmoniously intermingled with the
trotting strains, that by the form of the animal there is no telling whether
the gait will be of the trot or pace. It may be either or both, with a
good prospect of additional speed added. The two gaits of today are
interchangable.

AMERICAN SADDLE HORSE.

That this high class of special creation of American origin is des-
tined to become very popular among the wealthy classes there is no
question.

The American saddle horse is one of the very best organized ani-
mals of the different types, all things considered, and is a creation of
beauty in outline, graceful in movement, intelligent akin to human,
and more capable in the use and action of his legs than all others of
the equine race.

AMERICAN SADDLE HORSE'S ABILITY TO CHANGE OF
GAITS.

The use of the legs in going different gaits, is more remarkable with
the saddle bred horse than any other. He seems to be endowed with
the ability of instantly changing from one gait to another without hinder-
ance or falter in movement. With the best specimens of saddle bred
horses, the different gaits are clear and distinct, and free from friction.
The plain walk is flat-footed and smooth; the fast walk (running walk,
or fox-trot) is easy and without constraint; the trot, is a line movement;
the 'rack, is steady and free from what would be called force, and with-
out a pacing movement; the canter, is slow and clear, without shufHe
and performed with either foot in the lead. The quality of the horse
is fine, substance tseosonable, weight in proportion to height, with evi-
dence of endurance'',and good manners; much of the latter acquired by
a proper education, which is only a demonstration of ability to go the
different gaits and the instructor, to show when and how they should
be performed. Illustration seen in cut No. 11, is that of Black Squirrel
2nd, and shows a typical animal of the type. Strong at every point,
style fi-ont and rear, with a faultless "running gear" — feet and legs —
which insures safety of seat, fearlessness in action, with courage and

HORSK SENSE.

19

horse sense, sufficient to make the rider enjoy horse-back riding- to any
other way of going.

Cut No. II.

BLACK SQUIRREL 2ND.

Champion Purse Winner.

GENER.^L PURPOSE PIORSE A RARE SPECIMEN OF ANY
BREED OR TYPE.

The general purpose horse is more of an ideal animal than a reality.
"We have been trying for many generations to produce this much covet
type of horses, with now and then an individual animal that seemed
to just fill the bill, but when we have endeavored to build upon this prin-
ciple, failure has met us at every hand and we must content ourselves
with the individuals to be found among the different types.

Cut No. 12 shows the stallion of all work, and a close inspection will
satisfy the majority that he is large enough (1.300 pounds), and when his
breeding is known, none will deny but that he is possessed with action
sufificient for the general purpose horse. He shows strong at every
point, level headed, and to those looking for this class, he no doubt will
fill the bill. This is a very good likeness of Red Wilkes, 1749, by
George Wilkes, 519, by Hambletonian, 10:

20

HORSE SENSE.

Red Wilkes is the sire (at this writing) of 145 trotters and pacers,
with records from 2:06^ to 2:30. He has "jj sons, that have sired 357
trotters and pacers from 2:ooj4 to 2:30. He has 62 daughters, that
are the dams of 94 trotters and pacers with records of 2:30 and below,
and yet the casual observer would say to himself that he looks more
like^he would sire common work horses than those for racing purposes.
Here again we have the combination of Hambletonian, 10, Mambrino
Chief, II. and the Morgan strains, and we get compactness of form,
size and substance to suit the most critical.

Cut No. 12.
ALL PURPOSE STALLION.

Cut 13 represents a brood mare that will mate well with the stallion
for good serviceable horses of all work. She has well sprung pasterns,
good feet, and legs well under her. She has an excellent digestive de-
partment, with roomy pelvis. She is muscular, has plenty of courage,
and a mare of strong individuality. Examine this stallion and mare,
point by point for mating.

This is Rose Chief, by Brown Chief, 5016, by Mambrino Chief, 11,
dam, Lady Nichols, by John Dillard, by Indian Chief, 832, by Blood's
Black Hawk. This all-purpose mare bred to this all-purpose stallion,
produced Prince Wilkes, with a trotting record of 2:14)4 under old
methods and high wheels.

HORSE SENSE.

21

THE STRICTLY CARRIAGE HORSE MAY BE FOUND IN SEV-
ERAL BREEDS.

The carriage horse is in great demand, not only in this country, but
for exportation. He must have size, style and action. While we have
had many importations of stallions to mate with our American mares
to supply this want in carriage teams so iar, they have not filled the
expectations of importers or breeders. The law of like begetting like
applies to the blood lines in both stallion and mare to be bred together
as well as in general conformation; consequently, all cross breeding
must be considered to a great degree as experimental, and, remember,
experiments are always attended with more or less failures before per-
fection is attained.

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Cut No. 13.
ALL PURPOSE BROOD MARE.

The French Coach and Hackney sires imported to this country
might prove very valuable if we possessed the mares adapted to their
blood, but up to the present time their services on our native mares
has been too disappointing for recommendation.

Cut 14 shows the American coach horse, with speed enough to satisfy
any carriage road rider, 1,250 pounds, sired by a son of Hambletonian,
10, dam bv a son of Mambrino Chief, 11.

22

HORSE SENSE.

THE CARRIAGE BROOD MARE OF AMERICAN BLOOD.

This class of mares also must be of our American breeding or from
imported stock that trace in the same blood line channels.

The fact that matched teams of typical carriage horses bring the
highest prices of any other class in the markets of the world, should
encourage the breeder who is the possessor of mares capable of supply-
ing this demand, to devote time, care and money in the selection of
stallions to mate them with to this end, remembering that breeding
is as essential as conformation for uniform results.

Cut No. 14.
: AMERICAN CARRIAGE STALLION.

COMPARISON OF BLOOD LINES AS NECESSARY AS THAT
OF CONFORMATION.

Comparison of the mares with stallions in conformation is with the
view of correcting weaknesses and constitutional defects, but a com-
parison of blood lines is equally necessary where an improvement or
even the maintainance of the general characteristics is desired.

Cut IS is to illustrate the character of a matron to be bred to this
class of stallions; compare the two, point by point, for the duties of the
carriage for active work.

This mare is a member of the Clay, Pilot, Jr., Manibrino Chief and
Morgan families.

HORSE SENSE.

COACH HORSE TYPES CONSIDERED.

23

From time immemorial, the tj'pe designated as the coach horse, has
been the ambition of breeders to supply the fastidious people of wealth
and fashion with carriage and coach teams, but up to the present time
they have had to depend largely on the selection of individual animals
(from any source) to meet the wants of fashion rather than the estab-
lishing of a typical and uniform breed or family of this high class of
horses.

Cut No. 15.
AMERICAN CARRIAGE BROOD MARE.

SIZE, STYLE, ACTION AND COLOR AIMED AT.

To get the desired size, together with style and action, has required
a crossing of specific types of the heavy and light horses, relying in
the beginning on Arabian sires for form, style and spirit, and dams
of some of the larger types of horses, and later, with the English thor-
oughbred sires and dams of the heavier stock, but the stifif-kneed action
of the running horse has so often failed to get the desired action that
there have been many disappointments in the results. As to the color
of coach horses, probablj' the bay has a more universal standing, but
people differ so widely in taste, that what is fashionable this year may be
off-color next year. Some want solid colors and others want white
markings. |

24

HORSE SENSE.

ALMOST ALL COUNTRIES TRYING TO GET THE POPULAR
COACH HORSE.

While all countries are and have been trying to evolve just the desired
animal for the coach department, it seems such a difficult problem that
none have yet demonstrated to the entire satisfaction of any country
that it ^i based on a solid foundation.

The illustration, cut No. i6, is a good specimen of the hackney type;
but we should ever deplore and forcibly condemn the practice of cutting
ofT the tail — nature's wise provision to the horse for protection against
his insect pests.

HACKNEY TYPE OF COACH HORSE.

This is an old type of animal of any breed that was considered valu-
able for all purposes, or in other words, a "hack about" horse of Eng-
land; and generally a cross bred animal. But of late years the best
specimens have been selected and bred together for the desired pur-
pose with good results for their native country. It has been proven
that the native stallions of this country of predominating Morgan blood.

HORSE SENSE.

25

crossed witli the Inckney marts oi Jilnglaiul, do far ln'tter than the
Knghsh staUions have shown with American mares. Many importa-
tions of stallions of this type have been used in this country, but up to
date they have not met the mares that would enable them to establish a
fixedness of form, color, action and character thai was expected gener-
ally. Many grand specimens of individuality can be found in England^
but in. this country they have proved more or less disappointing with
our American bred mares, as we have not the same tyi)e of animals to
breed them to, and cross breeding is always attended with uncertainties.

Cut No. 17.

FRENCH COACH.

Cut No. 17 i.s a three-quarter front view of a splendid specimen of

the imported French coach horse, but like the English hackney, he has

been mutilated at the rear end. and deprived of nature's protection against

his insect enemies, a senseless and barbaric practice.

FRENCH COACH HORSE IN A FAIR WAY.

While the French Coach horse cannot be said to be more potent
away from home, he is certainly on the high road to success in the es-
tablishment of a specific type in his own country, owing to the interest
the French government is taking in their development, by selecting the

26 HORSE SENSE.

very best specimens for breeding purposes and controlling the breeding
animals for the best results. This is the only manner of obtaining a
true type of animals, and eventually they will gain their point of pro-
ducing a coach horse of merit.

AMERICAN BREEDERS NOT IN THE BACKGROUND.

With the many noble specimens of the Arab, thoroughbred, and
Morgan strains of horses we have had in this country, and the hard
work in the development of the American trotter, we have no doubt
now the very best material for the foundation of the typical coach horse,
and as soon as we turn our undivided attention in that direction we
will astonish the world in being able to get all the required essentials
demanded.

Had we given, as much attention to the development of the coach
horse as we have to the speedy animal, we would have been at the top
in form, style, action and possibly size and color, before this time. The
introduction of the foreign coach stallions so far, has not seemed to
work well with the mares of this country, and about twenty years' ex-
perience demonstrates that from such stallions as have been imported
and bred to the mares of the country, we can find but very few speci-
mens that meet the demands of the coach markets.

Cut No. i8.
PILOT BOY AND AMELIA, 2:0934.

The outline sketch here presented, cut No. 18, is that of Pilot Boy,
2:09^4, and Amelia, 2:09^4, both by Pilot Medium. 1597, by Happy Me-
dium, 400, by Hainbletonian, 10. The dam of Pilot Medium was Tackey,
by Pilot, Jr., 12., grand-dam, Jenny Lind, by Bellfounder.

HORSE vSENSE,

27

AMERICAN BRED LIGHT ROAD HORSES.

The light road horses of America excel every other country, and are
acknowledged to be the best in the world for the purpose. While the
coach and heavy carriage horses are expected to have high action, that
of the typical every day road horse must be of the low gaited order and
should not be too heavy. Weight beyond the necessities of the load
to be carried, is just so much dead weight to be carried by the horses
themselves, to say nothing of the extra amount of feed of support for
the extra live weight to be sustained.

Cut No. ig.
AMERICAN COACH OR CARRIAGE HORSES.

The illustration here shown, cut No. 19, is that of a team of half
brothers, bred in about the manner indicated, and were owned by a
friend of the author, and are very hard to surpass in many particulars.

AMERICAN BRED HEAVY CARRIAGE HORSES.

Wherever the trotting bred horses of this country have attained the
size and possess the style and finish required, they come nearer meet-
ing the wants of the park and city riders and drivers than anything that
has yet been imported from other countries. They possess the intelli-
gence, spirit, endurance and speed, to satisfy the most critical buyers.

From the fact that our attention has been attracted to that of speed
rather than style and size, is the principal reason why we have so few

28 HORSE SENSE.

high class carriage horse?. Whenever we turn our attention to the
carriage horse specifically, then we will attract the attention of every
other country in this class of home production.

THE DRAFT HORSE IS A WONDERFUL TYPE OF SEVERAL
BREEDS.

?«=^

^*t

Cut Nn. 20.
DRAFT STALLION (Clydesdale).

Cut 20 shows a draft stallion of the type (not necessarily the breed)
that is demanded in the markets. He has a strong organization, a good
feeder, level headed, and shoulder that the collar can be made to fit well.
His carriage is quite high, but it is at the expense of his back, he is a
little down there. He has a good "dinner basket," consequently good
digestion with ample exercise.

Any of the draft breeds (Percherons, French Draft, Clydes,
Shires, Belgians, or English Draft), with the required size, sound and
level headed, meet with a ready sale in the markets.

THE BREEDING OF ANCESTRY SHOULD BE IN HARMONY
WITH THE INDIVIDUAL.

What we wish to particularly impress upon the mind of the reader
is, that the selection of the type of animals for a special purpose is of
the utmost importance and be sure that the breeding of the ancestry
is in harmony with the selection of the particular type for many gen-
erations back. Combine thtse two and then there is but little specula-

IIOKSE SENSE.

29

tion as to the results in the production and maintainance of that type, all
other things being equal.

CROSSING OF BREEDS OR FAMILIES SHOULD BE OF THE
SAME GENERAL TYPE.

While we would always advocate the adherance to the selected breed,
if crosses are to be made, our advice would be to keep in the line of
the type, i. e., if the selection is for drdft purposes, cross Shires with
Clydesdales; Percherons with French Draft; SufYoik Punch with Bel-
gians,, for the best results, but any of these will be far preferable with
one another than to cross any of these with the Hambletonians, Morgans,
Mambrino Chiefs — any of the road types or thoroughbreds, must be de-
plored as tending to a loss of identity of both types for breeding pur-
poses with the offspring.

Cut No. 21.
DRAFT BROOD MARE (Clydesdale).

Cut 21 represents the draft mare suitable to mate this Clydesdale stal-
lion. She is strong at every point, and if the breeding and character-
istics of both their antecedents are of the same order, good results for the
market of draft stock would likely follow.

While we have many mo.'^t excellent Clydesdale horses in this coun-
try from the best selected imported animals, there are others that are
a disgrace to any country: lacking quality, conformation and constitu-
tion. Don't let us pin our faith to any breed or type unless the re-

30

HORSE SENSE.

quisites of good horses are to be found in the animals. We must de-
vote the required time and attention to sum up the whole matter in horse
production. The "happy go lucky" style will never do to follow
throughout.

DRAFT STALLION (Percheron).

This Percheron stallion, cut No. 22. is one of the best specimens of
the breed that is to be found. He was imported by the late Leonard
Johnson, of Nortbfield. Alinn., and took the first prize at the state fair
until he was barred, and at many other fairs where he was shown. While
he weighed about a ton, he was as light a mover as the ordinary 1,200
pounder. He is almost perfect at every point and shows what may
be done by careful selection in the breeding relation.

Cut No. 22.
GILBERT (Percheron).

The devotees of the respective draft breeds make strong claims for
their preference, but a close observation of many years reveals the fact
that good and bad are to be found in both the Percheron and Clydesdale,
and the "kickers" against either breed are generally prejudiced. Let
us always be frank and recognize the good horse as an individual, of
whatever breed he may be, and discard the seriously defective.

DRA.FT BROOD MARE (Percheron).

This Percheron brood mare, cut No. 23, like the stallion, is about as
near the right form, style and finish as any one could ask. She is not
only strong and vigorous, but she shows quality and her foal at foot,

HORSE SENSE.

31

shows licr ability as a breeder. Pcrlection in I'orni and ability in nerve
force are essentials that never should be overlooked in the brood mare.

Cut No. 23.
PERFECTION AND FOAL.

The article on the selection of the brood mare, to be seen in Chapter
XIII., deals with this subject at sutScient length, to give the student aw
insight to the subject for comparative observations: the only method'
of arriving at sound conclusions. Facts are what we want, one of
which, when fully demonstrated, will overturn all the theories opposedl
thereto.

CHAPTER IV.

JUDGING HORSES.

Cut No. 24.
THE SIDE VIEW.

Three positions are required to show the horse to the best advantage.
From the side view, cut No. 24, we show his length, height, style and
side appearance of the legs and feet.

The front view, cut No. 25, shows the breadth of forehead, width of
chest and extension forward of breast bone, width of forearms, breadth
of knees, size and form of feet, whether they toe in or toe out, and
whether the front legs are too close together or too far apart.

The rear view is equally important to show the formation of croup,
with width and strength of quarters and gaskins, the relative position
of the hind legs, etc.

The views herewith given are of a three-year-old imported Clydes-
dale stallion, weighing 1,700 pounds.

HOKSE SENSE.

33

Cut No. 25.
THE FRONT AND REAR VIEW.

SCORE CARD FOR JUDGING DRAFT HORSES ON A SCAX.E OF 100

POINTS.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 15 POINTS.

Height— Hands high, measured or estimated, 16 hands the mini-

mum^ 2

Weight— Weighed or estimated, 1,500 pounds the minimum 2

Form— Symmetry, smooth, massive, legs well under body 3

Quality— Firm flesh, dense bones, large tendons, hair and skin fine.. 3

Temperament— Good disposition, courageous, active for size 3

Color- Bay, black, sorrel, gray, roan and cream 2

— 15
FEET AND LEGS-"RUNNING GEAR"-MEANS OF LOCOMOTION.

45 POINTS.
Feet— Large, uniform size, smooth, dense horn, concave sole,

strong bars, large ela.stic frog, wide upright heels 4

Pasterns— Sloping, strong and springy, never upright or straight.. 4

Fetlocks— Wide and straight, never turning toes in our out 3

Cannons— Short, clean and wide, with strong tendons 3

Knees— Wide, well defined, strong, straight, and square to front .. 3

Hocks— Wide, straight, strong and clear of "puffs" 4

Forearms— Medium length, heavy muscled and well braced at

chest 3

Gaskins— (Lower thighs) wide and heavy muscled inside and out .. 3

Arms- Short and rather straight, strongly supported at shoulder .. 3

34 HORSE SENSE.

Thighs— Deep and muscular, well filled in angle 3

Shoulders— Rather straight, heavy muscled into back 3

Quarters— Wide and massive for lifting heavy loads 3

Hips— Smooth, wide and level, neither higher than the other 3

Croup— Wide and muscular, tail, strongly set and well carried 3

BODY— (MIDDLE PIECE)— SOURCE OF HEAT AND
POWER. 15 POINTS.

Chest— Wide and deep, extending well forward, large girth 4

Ribs— Well sprung, horizontally from spine and close together 3

Back— Short, straight and heavily muscled 3

Loin— Wide, deep and smooth, may be a little arched 3

Underline— Long, but low at the flank 2

— 15

HEAD AND NECK-SEAT OF INTELLIGENCE, SPIRIT AND
STYLE. 20 POINTS.

Head— Lean and straight, jaws strong, wide and well spread 3

Forehead— Wide between the eyes, but not "dished" 3

Eyes— Large and full, clear and bright, but mild 4

Ears- Medium size, pointed, well set and active 3

Muzzle— Fine, nostrils good size, lips thin and compressed 3

Neck— Broad and muscular, not too thick at shoulder, good crest.. 4

— 20

PERFORMANCE— ABILITY TO DO REQUIRED WORK WITH

EASE. 5 POINTS.
ACTION— Strong, vigorous walk, strong line movement at the trot 5

— 100
NOTE.— After the student has made himself well acquainted with the
several parts of the horse, he may then group each division and arrive at
practically the same result very rapidly. A general knowledge of horses is
good, but it is very important that each part be studied in detail, noting
their strength as well as their relative value to other parts.

SCORE CARD FOR JUDGING I>TGHT HORSES ON A SCALE OF 100
POINTS.
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 15 POINTS.

Height— Hands high, measured or estimated, 16 hands the limit.. 2

Weight— Weighed or estimated, 1,200 pounds being the limit 2

Form— Symmetry, smooth, stylish and legs well under the body... 3

Quality— Firm flesh, dense bones, strong, well defined tendons, half

and skin fine and soft, yielding to the touch 3

Temperament— Good disposition, courageous and active but not

nervous 3

Color— Bay. chestnut, black, brown, sorrel, roan, gray and cream.. 2

— 15
FEET AND LEGS— "RUNNING GEAR"— MEANS OF

LOCOMOTION. 45 POINTS.
Feet— Good size with upright walls, dense, smooth horn, concave

sole, strong bars, large elastic frog, wide upright heels 4

Pasterns— Sloping about 45 degrees, never upright or straight 5

Fetlocks— Ankles wide and straight, not turning the toes 3

Cannons— Short, clean and wide, showing strong tendons and cords 2

Knees— Wide, strong, clean, deep, straight and square to front 3

Hocks— Wide, clean cut, moderate angle and free from "puffs".... 3

Forearm— Long, well muscled, wide and well graced at chest 3

Gaskins— (Lower thighs) wide and muscular inside and out 3

Arms- Short, and sloping to the front, well muscled 3

Thighs— Long, deep and muscular, well spread, leaving open angle 3

Shoulders— Sloping, smooth, muscular, extending into back 3

HORSE SENSE. 35

Quarters— Wide, deep and heavily muscled, propelling power 3

Hips— Smooth, wide and level, neither higher than the other 2

Croup- Long, wide and muscular, not r.teep or too tlat 3

Tail— Well supplied with hair, carried high and straight 2

— 45

BODY— (MIDDLE PIECE)-SOURCE OF HEAT AND POWER.
l.'^ POINTS.

Chest— Deep and wide, extending well to the front, large girth 4

Ribs— Long, well sprung, close together and close to hips 3

Back— Short, straight and muscular, broad 3

Loin— Wide, deep and smooth, may be a little arched 3

Underline— Long and well down at the tianli 2

— 15
HEAD AND NECK-SEAT OF INTELLIGENCE, SPIRIT AND

STYLE. 20 POINTS.

Head— Lean and straight (not Roman), jaws wide and well spread 3

Forehead— Wide between the eyes and full— not dished 3

Eyes— Large, full, clear and bright, and of dark or hazel color 4

Ears— Medium size, slim, fine pointed, carried erect and active 3

Muzzle— Fine nostrils, large and thin, lips thin, even and firm 3

Neck— Muscular, high crest, fine at throat, wind pipe large 4

— 20
PERFORMANCE— ABILITY TO MOVE WITH STRENGTH,

EASE AND GRACE. 5 POINTS.
Action— Strong, spirited walk, rapid, bold and frictionless trot In
line movement— no "paddling," "fanning" or "cuffing" in front
or behind, nor "rolling" motion 5

— 5

100

NOTE.— The two score cards given will Illustrate the critical examina-
tions that horses undergo in the markets, as well as the nice distinctions
which are made at fairs or in the selection by breeders. By this method of
judging, the horse is scanned point by point, and all details of the several
pans are carefully estimated as to strength and proportion, and when these
are well understood then they can be rapidly grouped.

CHAPTER V.

EXAMINING HORSES FOR SOUNDNESS, BY GOOD AU-
THORITY.

SOUND HORSES.

Absolute soundness rarely, if ever, exists. This being the case, we
have' to be contented with "practical soundness," which is the nearest
approach to a pe'-fectly sound horse.

A sound horse is one that is free from all disease and has nothing-
about'iiini that interferes or is likely to interfere with his usefulness,
or depreciate his value.

PRACTICALLY AND SERVICEABLY SOUND HORSES. \

As practical soundness is what we have to deal with in examining a
horse, it must appear, first, that he is free from all disease that renders
him unable to do his kind of work as a sound horse should; second,
that certain conditions are not present which, in a longer or shorter
time, may render him unfit to do the work of a sound horse; third, that
nothing exists that tends to depreciate the value of the animal as com-
pared to a sound horse. • '

How is it best to proceed to examine the animal? We must bear
in mind that a horse may be temporarily unsound or permanently un-
sound.

TEMPORARY UNSOUNDNESS CONSIDERED.

Temporary unsoundness may include certain diseases, of which, after
the animal has recovered, little or no trace remains; it also includes
certain forms of lameness, as interfering, slight sprains, etc., which sub-
side in a short while. In examination it is necessary to look for dis-
ease, malformations, etc., and not for soundness.

EXAMINATION AT REST AND IN MOTION.

The horse to be examined should be seen, first, at rest, in and out
of the stall; second, in motion, both when warmed up and when cooled
off.

WATCH THE HORSE CAREFULLY IN THE STALL FOR HAB-
ITS.

Ascertain how the animal feeds, while at rest in the stall — if he cribs,
sucks wind or weaves. Notice his position of standing and watch him

HdRSK SENSE. 37

while backing: out of the stall, to see whether there is dragging of the
feet, or other peculiar actions.

On the floor, have nothing on but a halter. Take a general glance
at the animal, noting the position of the extremities, color, size, and
general outline. Then proceed to examine, part by part, commencing
at the head, not forgetting to compare one side with the other as the
examination progresses. Nothing should be overlooked, and when the
examination is completed, a definite conclusion is easily arrived at.

EXAMINATION OF THE HORSE'S HEAD.

In examining- the head note the shape, the conditions of the bones
of the face, the shape and condition of the eyes, the pupils, the ears,
the mucous membrane of the nasal cavity (noting the color and looking
for ulceration, growths, etc.); then examine the contents of the mouth,
the age, shape, size and wearing surfaces of the teeth, and examine the
bars for fractures; and then pass to the inter-maxillary space, feeling the
pulse, the conditioii of the lower jaw, whether thickened or thinned;
examine the glands in this region, then the poll, the throat, the condi-
tion of the glands, not forgetting to cause the animal to cough and re-
membering the kind of cough; pass along the neck, nots the condition
of the mane, the jugular grove, the trachea.

EXAMINATION FOR FRACTURES, HERNIA, TUMORS,
CURBS, SPAVINS, ETC.

Look over the shoulders for marks of setons, wasting of muscles;
the elbows for capped elbow; the knee for fractures, inflammation, etc.;
the shin bones for splints; the tendons for their condition; the fetlock
for fractures, swellings, scars of neurotomy, etc.; then look for side
bones, ring bones, etc.; and finally the general outline of the feet, as
regards size, shape, etc., and in particular the toe cracks, quarter cracks,
results of laminitis, navicular disease, etc.

EXAMINATION OF THE HORSE'S BODY.

Next take the body under observation, remembering to examine both
sides; first the withers, looking for marks of setons, swellings, etc.; then
the condition of the ribs; test the heart and lungs; look at the abdomen
for hernia; the flank, noting the respirations, whether quickened, slow,
irregular and the like.

EXAMINE FROM THE REAR FOR HIP FRACTURES, TAIL,
STIFLES, ETC.

Next stand behind the animal and examine the hips for fractures
and swellings; then the hip joints (remembering to compare one side
with the other): examine the tail to see if false; look under the tail for
tumors; the flank for hernia and tumors; the stifles for swellings, dis-
locations; the hocks for spavins, thoroughpins, curbs; then pass down-
ward, noting the condition of the parts in the front limbs.

38 HORSE SENSE.

EXAMINATION FOR LINE MOVEMENT AT DIFFERENT

GAITS.

Have the animal trotted by the halter in as straight a line as possible
in a slow, easy trot, allowing the horse about one foot of rope, so as
not to interfere" with the action. The animal should be trotted away
from the examiner, at which time the movements of the hind legs may
be noted, and when trotted towards him the movements of the front
legs.

EXAMINE WHEN THE HORSE IS WARM AND THEN WHEN
COOL.

When the animal is warmed up, lameness may not be shown; while
if cooled off, it manifests itself, and vice versa. Next have the animal
galloped to test his wind; see if the breathing is fast, irregular or noisy.
D onot forget to examine the eyes.

CHAPTER VI.

EXAMINATION FOR LAMENESS.

FIND CAUSE OF LAMENESS.

Among the causes of lameness are weak conformation of bones, mus-
cles, etc., tissues being too frail to stand the strain; the fetlock may be
too long, causing an extra stram on the tendons; the hock may be too
angular, predisposing the animal to curb, or too straight up and down,
predisposing to ^pavin; the hoof may show too high a heel, favoring
contraction: or too low a heel, favoring corns, puncture, bruises, in-
ferior shoeing — that is, fitting a shoe while too hot; having the shoe
press upon the sole instead of the walls; overtaxing muscles, tendons
and ligaments by pulling a heavy load over rough and muddy roads;
constant jerking and blon-s from the wagon pole and harness — all of
these are causes of lameness.

FIND WHERE AND HOW THE HORSE'S LAMENESS AF-
FECTS HIM.

How to discover a horse is lame or where he is lame is not so easy
a matter as some may imagine. It is best to observe the animal first
standing. If the horse points persistently — that is, places the foot in
front of the normal position— the lameness is very apt to be below the
fetlock. If the knee is effected it is often kept in a bent condition, while
in shoulder and fetlock lameness the toe generally rests upon the ground.
After examining the horse standing, allow him to go in a slow trot to
and from the observer, holding the halter strap about a foot and a half
from the head.

WATCH THE HORSE'S HEAD AND EARS WHEN IN MOTION.

Watch carefully the animal's head and ears while he is trotting to-
ward you. He will attempt to protect the lame leg by throwing the
most of his weight on the sound one, and if the lameness is in front will
nod his head when the weight is thrown upon the sound one.

WATCH HOW HE PROTECTS THE LAME LEG.

When the animal trots away from you. if the lameness is behind, he
will attempt to protect the lame leg by throwing his weight heavier on
the sound ore.

40 HORSE SENSE.

Having determined which leg is lame, the next thing is to locate the
seat of the lameness.
WHEN IN DOUBT, MOVE A SOUND HORSE WITH THE
LAME ONE.

If there is any doubt about whether the animal is using its legs prop-
erly, take a sound animal and trot it up and down, and compare its
actions with those of the lame one

SHOULDER LAMENESS DETECTED BY LIMITED ACTION.

Shoulder lameness is evident by limited action of the entire shoulder.
The animal seems anxious to keep stationary, and in bringing the leg
forward does so by an outward swinging motion. The horse that is
kne^lame aims to keep the knee as stifT as possible, and in moving
the leg forward bring the shoulder muscles into play. The leg is ad-
vanced in a dragging manner, the tot^ is hardly leaving the ground and
the leg is bent as little as possible.

JERKY ACTION IS MANIFEST IN FETLOCK LAMENESS.

Fetlock lameness is manifested by a short, jerky step, the animal step-
ping on the toe or often hopping on three legs. Lameness caused by
sore or enlarged tendons is similar to shoulder lameness, and is best
examined with the animal at rest, as then the swelling, heat or pain is
generally detected along the course of these parts.

GREAT CARE IN EXAMINING FOR FOOT LAMENESS.

It is more difficult to diagnose foot lameness. The best thing is to
pick up the foot and tap it lightly with a hammer and notice the flinch-
ing when the sore spot is touched. If the animal is nervous, it will
require great care to distinguish between the actual pain and the nerv-
ousness.

HOPPING MOTION IS SEEN IN HIP LAMENESS.

Hip limeness is known by a peculiar hopping gait. The animal,
while trotting, turns the hock of the lame leg in and stifle out.

DRAGGING MOTION IN STIFLE LAMENESS.

Stifle limeness shows itself by the difficulty the animal experiences
in elevating this part and bringing it forward, which is usually done in a
dragging fashion. The stifled animal either has the lame leg stretched
out behind or stands firmly on the sole. In the first case he cannot
back, and in the latter he cannot move the lame leg forward.

There are so many phases of lameness and so much difiference in
horses about withstanding injury and pain, or yielding to the slightest
infliction, that it makes the subject of the examination for lameness a
most difficult task to meet all c.ises. There is so much ignorance, preju-
dice and egotism connected with the examination of the horse for lame-
ness that the following is given as an offset, and to somewhat relieve the
mind of the reader:

HOKSH SKNSK. 41

A CHAT ON LAMENESS.
By My Old Frienr'. Dr. Wm. Dickson.

I could give you more than one technical definition ot what himcncss
is, but '"a rose" we are told, "by any other name would hUiell as sweet,"
and as a lame horse to his owner means a iiorse he cannot use. that de-
scription will fill tlie bin as well, or better tiian. any other. I liave no
intention of wanderinii into a disciuisition on the '"isms" and ""ologies,"
and involving myself and yi-u in a mist of unintelligable technicalities.
I heard a lecture the other day on "Scientific Ventilation," and I have been
tired of abstruce science ever since. The lecturer was excessively learned,
and never used a simple term when a scientific one would do. His point
was to show the hurtful eiYect of carbonic acid gas, which he styled
C-O-2, on animal life — the animal experimented on being a cat. Warm-
ing with his subject, the professor, a man of very imposing appearance,
by the way. fairly revelled in a mist of chemical technicalities — disap-
peared to his boots, in a cloud of scientific formulas, and all the ordinary
mind carried home with it was the fact that a certain amount of C-O-2
would kill C-A-T!

Now, I don't propose to fall into any such a trap as this. We, none
of us, want lame horses, of course; but we are all of us liable to get them
once in a while.

When you've got a lame horse, the first thing to determine is which
leg he is lame on; and this is not always as easy as it looks, except in
cases of severe lameness. Ninety per cent of all lameness occurs in the
feet. Itinerant horse c-anks, whose natural prey the confiding farmer
seems to be, usually have some favorite and oftentimes unlikely locality
to which they ascrible all lameness. Why it should be so, I don't know,
but the most common is the shoulder. Now, this is just the last place
I look for lameness, unless signs are particularly diognostic. Actual
shoulder lameness is easily told fro--:! any other — the horse invariably
advances his leg semi-circularly. as a man does his wooden leg.

The sense of touch which can detect any unnatural heat is the best
means of locating trouble.

FOOT FOUNDER,

Or Larniniiis and Navicular disease, are largely responsible for the
abominable practice of cutting out the sole and paring the frog on (?)
approved principles in the latter; as well as the barbarous practice of
nailing on a shoe two sizes two small, and then chopping off the foot to
fit it. Does inflammation occur in the hind feet?

It is most common in the front feet, but sometimes it occurs in all
four feet. If it is severe you can readily detect it by trying to back up
the animal, and you will find that he moves very reluctantly.

Are aloes a good remedy for this disease?

A violent purgative would be apt to leave you without any necessity
for further treatment and also without a horse.

42 HORSE SENSE.

RING BONES AND SIDE BONES.

Ring bones are the result of disease of the bony structure and side
bones of the fibro-elastic cartlages, whose office it is to prevent undue
expansion of the feet at the heels.

Can ring bone be cured? Sometimes they are cured. That is to
say, the lameness disappears. The best place, however to have ring-
bones or spavins is on another man's horse. "Cranks" will modestly
admit their inability to cure either one or the other, but they can "kill"
them, every time. This is as a rule, absolute nonsense. Lameness from
spavin is often got over in young horses, but rarely in old ones. Rest
is the main factor in the cure. Firing and blister will expedite the cure.
Anchylosis or growing of the joint solid is what happens. Some of the
gliding motion of the lower portion of the hock is lost, but the horse is
practically as good as ever. I use one ounce of biniodide of mercury to
eight of lard as a blister. There are a heap of things that a farmer can
do for himself, but when an animal is really ill, always get the best
qualified man available to treat it; and when you get his advice and pay
for it, follow it; don't keep a dog and do the barking yourself.

SPLINT.

What do you say about a splint that does not lame a horse? Take
my advice and leave it alone. Never hold a funeral until the corpse is
read.

What liniment is good for sprains? A very simple lotion for
sprains and also for flesh wounds, is one ounce of sugar of lead and six
drams of sulphate of zinc, in a quart of water.

WOLF-TEETH.

Do wolf-teeth cause blindness? No, sir; they do not.

BOTS.

Bots rarely harm the horse, his stomach is their natural winter resi-
dence.

CURB.

A curb is not a bone disease at all. It is a sprain o.f a ligament,
usiially it lames only young horses. Rest and a high heeled shoe with a
cooling lotion in the inflamatory stage. Hand rubbing or a blister will
remove the thickening of the parts, after inflammation subsides.

CHAPTER VII.

SELECTING THE STALLION.

As a public teacher in farmers' institutes for the past thirteen years, I
have been very careful to treat this subject in so plain and careful a
manner that it would not be misleading. My advice always is, to first
decide upon the type or class of horses to be produced, and then start
out with the full determination of finding the ideal individual as near as
possible in every particular, remembering always that the sire is con-
sidered one-half of the herd.

SIZE AND FORM FOR THE PURPOSES REQUIRED.

He should have the desired size, form, style and carriage to meet the

requirements expected.

PROPER DEVELOPMENT OF FIRST CONSIDERATION.

He should have the very best of feet and legs, and above all, they
should be hung to the body properly for easy and frictionless move-
ment (see the points in examination of the feet and legs illustrated in
Chapter II.) lie should be large around the girth (vital powers) with a
good middle-piece (^digestive capacity), broad, strong loin, muscular
quarters, broad gaskins and broad, clean hocks. Flis back should be
short in comparison with length of the underline. His shoulders mus-
cular and well defined, fore-arms well muscled and the front legs not too
wide apart nor too close together. Flis neck should be of good length
and width, but not too thick. His head clean and set on the neck at a
graceful angle, with the jaw-bones well spread, giving free room for the
wind-pipe. The eyes should be full and clear, with a kind expression.
The ears fair length, slim, erect and active. The nostrils large, thin and
dilating. The lips thin, shapely and compressed. His action should be
easy, graceful and without apparent efifort and a line mover.

INDIVIDUALITY OF THE TYPE MUST BE CONSIDERED.

All these are important as an individual, but for a sire, the stallion's
breeding must be as closely studied as his individuality, and for several
generations back, if we expect him to be successful in producing what
we desire. The law of '"Ativism," "Reversion," ''Breeding Back," etc.,
is so well established that we cannot afitord to ignore it, and no matter
how fine the individual may be, if his ance.>tors did not possess these de-
sirable characteristics, disappointments must naturally be looked for, as
they are about as sure to fclLpw as the daj'' succeeds the night.

44 HORSE SENSE.

SHOULD BE BRED STRONGLY IN THE TYPE HE REPRE-
SENTS ON BOTH SIDES.
The sire should be so strongly bred in a definite line of performance
that he will be able to control the general external characteristics and
the dam sufficiently well bred to give the nerve-force, endurance, vigor
and constitution. In other words, we must adhere to a line of uni-
formity in both sire and dam for the purpose of improvement in the
breeding relation.

CROSS WITH THE JACK AND THE MARE.

As an illustration in out-crossing to show the natural law of the sire
controlling the external characteristics and the dam the internal, we
would call the reader's attention to that of the jack and the mare, and in
this cross we would ask, who ever saw a mule that closely resembled its
dam? Now, use the thoroughbred stallion with the jenny, and we have
a perfect little horse in external characteristics in every particular, as
much so as that of the jack and the mule, and the produce in either case
are not generally breeders, but hybrids. In the case of the thoroughbred
mare and the jack, we have the nerve force of the thoroughbred in the
mule, which makes Kentucky and Missouri the famous mule producing
districts.
CROSS WITH THE THOROUGHBRED HORSE AND JENNY.

In the case of the thoroughbred sire and the jenny, we get a very
small animal and, like its dam, scarcely has ambition enough to go in
out of the storm, and consequently, comparatively worthless. This same
law applies to the crossing of all animals and whenever the sire is the
result of a cross of any kind, he is almost certain to be a failure. He
must be bred in a definite line for generation after generation, to be able
to correct the external defects of the mares he is bred to. Please remem-
ber that the selection of the sire is of the most vital importance, when
it is considered in its true light and must not be treated, as is too often
the case, in the line of an experiment. We cannot afiford to be con-
tinually and always in the experimental stage with our horse breeding.
We must establish principles and rules of practice that will serve as a
guiding star, to the unborn horse breeders of the country.

CHAPTER VIII.

WINTERING SERVICE STALLIONS.

The wintering of service stallions is a matter of more importance than
it is usually considered to be. The successful wintering of* stallions is the
preparatory stage for the reproduction of the species the next season,
with a prospect of improvement of the race, and improvement is in-
sured by storing up and maintaining all the vigor and endurance of our
stallions that the term implies. The successful race-horse is made by
development of muscle, nerve-force, lung power, speed, game and endur-
ance, which requires time, work, patience and perseverance by his trainer.
The successful livery horse requires as careful preparation to make him
prohtable to his owner, and the draft horse has to have a like preparation
to withstand the strains in pulling great loads, while the stallion, to be
successful in the stud for the spring season, must be properly wintered,
if we would approach the improvement of the equine race that is aimed at.

CONDITION FOR WINTERING.

The stallion should go into winter quarters with a moderate coat of
flesh, not fat, nor thin. His shoes, if any, should be removed and his
hoofs trimmed down just even with the natural untrimmed sole and the
edges rounded nicely to prevent breaking.

THE I'EET OF THE STALLION REQUIRE GREAT CARE.

The stallion's feet should be cleaned out every day with a foot-hook
to prevent foul matter from collecting about the frog of the feet and
producing "thrush," from which the feet become diseased, which some-
times renders him worthless. The stallion should have a roomy box-stall
warm and well ventilated, and if he cannot be driven daily, he should
have a lari;:e exercising lot in connection, in which he can, at will, run in
the open jiir. Exercise is just as necessary as food and water for the
maintainar.ee of activity of muscles, digestion and nerve force. And the
stallion thji.t has plenty of exercise, with kind treatment, will not become
vicious or likely to contract bad habits; but the stallion confined in a
dark stable is very likely to contract bad habits and become troublesome
in some w>y and useless as an important sire.

EXERCISING LOT FOR THE STALLION WHEN NOT AT
WORK.

The exercising lot should be long and rather narrow, so that the
stallion wil not be likely to run in a circle, slip and fall and injure him-

46

HORSE SENSE.

self. With the long lot he will have a chance to extend himself, and
when near the end of the lot, will stop with his feet all under him. which
is not so liable to injure him as if he were running in a circle.

STALLION YARD FENCE OPEN SO HE CAN SEE HIS SUR-
ROUNDINGS.

The writer has used this character of a stallion yard and fence for
years, and prefers it to any other, for the reason that it gives the stallion
an opportunity to see all that is going on around him and prevents him
from getting lonesome and nervous from the noises round about him
for which he cannot see the cause. The high, tight fence is a veritable
prison to the ambitious stallion and frequently keeps him fretting and
worrying to the extent of losing in vigor, instead of maintaining what
he already has. This exercising lot should be separate and apart from
all other horses, and the wide door of the stable should open out into
this lot for both the convenience of the keeper and the benefit of the
stallion.

Cut No. 26.
STALLION BARN AND EXERCISING LOT.
The '■eader will please note that in Cut No. 26 the fence is tight one-
half its height (4 or 5 feet) and slat fencing above, so that the stallion
can see all that is going on outside.

HARNESS OR SADDLE WORK FAR PREFERABLE TO THE
EXERCISING LOT.

While the exercising lot as here described is far better than anything
we have ever used for voluntary exercise, it must be remembered that
there is nothing so good for the stallion and his offspring, as every-day
work in the harness or under the saddle. When the day comes that
the stallion, to get patronage, must show harness marks and other indi-
cations that he is strong and hardy by work, then we will be on the high
road to success in hcrse-breeding.

HOKSE SENSE. 4<

FOOD THROUGH THE WINTER.

The food of the stallion through the winter should be in keeping with
the amount of exercise taken; some stallions will, of their own accord,
take ten times the work that others will, and if he is driven, the feed
must correspond to his work. Don't get him fat, nor let him run down
in flesh. Oats and bran, with some corn, if he suffers with the cold, will
be found excellent; corn is a good heater.

Roots may also be given to advantage in small quantities, twice or
three times per week, but good, nourishing foods, given often, and at
regular intervals, in small quantities at a time, will be found to be the
best for the great drain on the system during service season, of which
the wintering of the stallion is the preparatory stage.

KEEP THE STALLION STRONG AND VIGOROUS.
If the stallion is allowed to run dowm in flesh and lead a life of abso-
lute idleness through the winter and then the preparation for the sea-
son's work, when it is almost upon us, is attempted, we will make a
great mistake. There is no tax upon the animal economy that calls into
play all the energies and activity of the whole system like that of each
service during the whole season, and unless the stallion is well prepared
for this work, how can we reasonably expect him to be sure in service
or improve the character of his offspring? We might as well expect to
start in a racing campaign with a few days or weeks preparation, or to
catch up the green, unbroken draft colt, put him into hard work at once
and expect him to do as well as the old seasoned, well broken stand-by.
It is frequently observed that the stallions that are in the harness every
day at work, are the surest foal getters, and further, that the young
foals are stronger and more vigorous than those of stallions that have
had a life of what is termed good care and feed (shut in a stall with
all they will eat). This, alone, should be a lesson to the observing and
they should make exercise a very important matter with the service
stallion in winter as well as summer. We want to impress the importance
of exercise as one of the most essential requisites in the wintering of the
stallion. To exercise we must add the feed required to keep up his
vigor and then we will have a stallion in the spring, that can go on the
stand and do good service to his patrons, make a reputation, and bring
"ducats" to his owner. The work of the stallion should not be of the
extremely exhausting character, but enough to encourage a good appetite
and make strong muscles, send vitalizing blood through his arteries
with renewed energy and render his disposition happy and cheerful.

WE PAY DEARLY FOR NEGLECT OF THE STALLION IN
WINTER.

The horse being an animal of utility, and his value being largely esti-
mated by his activity and strength, how important it is that we preserve
the strength and action of our service stallions during their period of
vacation for renewed service in the coming season. This is a matter we
cannot ignore with impunity, without paying dearly for our negligence,

48 HORSE SENSE.

in the confinement of our stallions during the winter season. If we are
keeping stallions, let us keep them in such condition that they will be a
benefit, an improvement to the future living horses, or let us castrate
them and put them to work to earn the food they eat, and thereby reduce
the number of weakling?, bad dispositions and natural born cripples now
sired every season, largely from the effects of improper wintering and
want of preparing the stallions for the important service work they are
expected to perform.

ROUGH FEED FOR THE STALLION.

The rough feed of the stallion during winter, may be well cured hay
or corn fodder, but it should not be given in large quantities at a time.
It is very bad practice to keep a manger full of hay before the stallion all
the time, as it tempts him to keep his stomach distended with innu-
tritions food, which is too apt to make him dull and inactive; to say noth-
ing of the derangement of both stomach and bowels that is frequently en-
gendered by such a course. Small quantities, twice a day, are enough to
act as a vehicle for the more concentrated foods given, and will, thereby,
aid digestion, whereas too much rough feed will be a hindrance to activity
and muscular growth — the^ essential conditions aimed at.

WATERING THE STALLION OF GREAT IMPORTANCE.

Watering the stallion, for health and vigor, is a matter of more im-
portance than is usually considered. The stomach of the horse is com-
paratively small (holding about three and one-half gallons) and a pailful
or more of cold water will arrest the action of digestion, instead of
aiding it; therefore, it is far better practice to water the stallion before
feeding and give time enough for the animal heat of the body to warm
the water, when it will pass out of the stomach into the bowels before
giving him his ration of grain. If the stable is warm, and the weather
not very cold, fifteen to twenty minutes is usually sufficient for a vigor-
ous horse to warm the quantity of water he should drink at one time.
Water the stallion often, and give small quantities at a time. Because
others have done dififerently and their stallions did not die, or contract
serious difficulties, is no argument that the above course is not an im-
provement on the hap-hazard way of feeding and watering stock. The
amount of food saved, the improvement in health and vigor, together
with the success in the stud, encourages us to try to impress the import-
ance of this matter of watering the stallion before feeding.

SALT FOR THE STALLION AT ALL TIMES.

Keep a piece of rock salt in some convenient place where the stallion
can have access to it as often as he may like, or give small quantities,
twice a week regularly, for the health of the prospective sire.

PLENTY OF EXERCISE AND CLEANLINESS.

While the stallion shield (to prevent self-abuse) may, in some cases,
be neces.sary, we are strongly inclined to the opinion that plenty of exer-
cise is the most satisfactory practice to avoid their ever contracting the

HORSE SENSE. 49

habit: but when once acquired, it may be necessary to use the shield;
still, we are confident that exercise will do more to regulate this pernici-
ous habit than all other remedies combined. We have a number of
stallions, and also have two or three shields, but we rarely ever use eithe*"
of them, for the reason that whenever we have given the stallions plenty
of exercise, we have seen no need for the use of a shield.

Keep the stallion stall scrupulously clean, for a stable, and you will
have done very much towards the health and comfort of the stallion. His
bedding should be clean and there should be plenty of it, that he may
he down and enjoy a good night's rest, without his joints coming in con-
tact with the hard floor or damp ground.

FIRM BUT KIND MANAGEMENT.

Stallions should be treated firmly, but kindly, and should never be
teased or fought. To go into a fight with a stallion, is a very danger-
ous and grave undertaking, and, although you come out victorious at the
tim.e, the chances are that it is only a question of a little time when he
will get the better of you, and may endanger your life; whereas, if you
are on good terms with liim, he will not have the inclination to take
any advantage of you. We must not for a moment conclude that the
stallion has not his likes and dislikes, which we are bound to respect, and
if we do not, we are apt, sooner or later, to learn to our sorrow, that we
are mistaken. The stallion appreciates good treatment as much as any
other animal; and it is prudent, at least, for every groom, owner, or
driver to learn this lesson early in the life of the young stallion, for the
benefit of both.

We could give many more details in the handling and care of the
stallion, but if what we have here indicated is carefully carried out with
the best stallions of the land, we will see a great improvement in the
future generations of our horses.

W-E MUST COMPLY WITH THE LAWS OF PRO-CREATION.

Successful procreation is governed by immutable laws, and if we
would reap the full benefit, we nmst certainly comply with them, and if
disregarded we are the losers in consequence of the violations. It is not
certain, but what the mental and physical condition of the stallion and
mare at the time of service, may not control that of the ofifspring in like
character. Then with the mental and physical conditions right at the
breedmg period, we can more certainly look forward with favorable
prospects in the foal to be, than if we are fighting the stallion and mare,
arousing all the latent antipothies to man (comparatively dormant
through domestication) and say we are surprised that the produce is a
veritable devil in disposition.

CHAPTER IX.

CARE OF THE STALLION IN SEASON.

The breeding stallion, during the service season, requires special at-
tention for the best results to those patronizing him. It must be taken
for granted that he has been well wintered; been worked or had plenty
of exercise every day; that he is strong and muscular at the beginning
of the season; but because he is waiting for patronage, don't conclude
he must not be exercised, but kept in the stable and fed all kinds of
nostrums to stimulate the sexual function, which would be all wrong
and must not be tolerated under any circumstance. While it is not best
to exercise the stallion to the point of actual fatigue, it is of the greatest
importance that he has his daily work, to keep him in the height of con-
dition. Exercise and good nourishing food is all that is necessary for the
stallion that has been properly wintered.

REGULATING THE SERVICES OF THE STALLION.

The regulation of the services of the stallion is a feature that is very
hard for everyone to understand. Some stallions that are strong and
recuperative force active, can do twice the business to advantage that
others are capable of. But the nicst important feature of the stallion's
work for the season is in the beginning. Too many services the first
week may ruin him for the whole season. One, two or three services for
the first and four or five the next week, is the safest and surest kind of
a beginning, and afterwards one a day may be indulged in, but never
more than two can be counted on as profitable; and let this be as seldom
as possible. The stallion that has led a life of idleness through the
winter cannot do justice to more than about two a week through the
season. But the stallion that has worked every day and been well fed,
can do far more and better business, to both his owner and patrons.

WATER, FEED AND HAY FOR THE STALLION.

Water the stallion before feeding, or whenever he would relish a
moderate drink, except it be within two hours after feeding grain. Feed
oats, corn, bran and a little oil-meal, either in mixture or separately and
regularly, four or even five times per day, and quantity in proportion to
the weight of the stallion and his digestion. Except the stallion is sick,
let the condition powders, drugs, nostrums and medicines alone. Salt
and ashes kept (or salt alone) where the stallion has access to it, is
sufficient, but important. If the stallion is sick, do as you would if you

HORSE SENSE. 51

were sick, get the best medical adviser obtainable and carry out his
instructions.

The hay for the stallion should be of the best and cleanest, but should
not be fed in large quantities, as the services of the stallion are of a
character that requires activity, energy and pressure on the abdominal
visera. Twelve to sixteen pounds of hay in twenty-four hours is suiH-
cient for the largest stallion, and much less for smaller ones. Too much
hay has a tendency to make the stallion dull, short-winded and uncom-
fortable in his services.

HANDLING THE STALLION FOR SERVICE.

This is a much more important matter than most people will prob-
ably concede, but it is nevertheless true, that the quieter and least an-
noyingly the stallion can be handled, the better for the future ofifspring.
No stallioneer should, under any circumstances, have a fight with his
charge. Neither should he use a whip in handling the stallion for serv-
ice. It tends to make the horse nervous, timid or more often vicious;
all of which must have its influence with the progeny. The stallion or
safety bridle, represented elsewhere, is all that is necessary in handling
any stallion, both for the control of the horse and preventing rough
teasing of the mare. He can be prevented from biting his keeper or the
mare without any trouble. Never give the stallion pain when in close
contact with him, but if he is headstrong, let him have his head and
when at the length of the stallion bridle (twenty feet rope) "pinch" him
promptly and he will have business with his keeper in order to get relief,
Avhich should never be neglected. Always give the horse comfort when
he is near by and when he acts on his own volition, is the time to get
him to understand that his groom is his best friend.

The stallion should not be allowed to tease the mare long or roughly,
but as soon as it is determined that she is ready is the time that the
stallion should be allowed to serve her.

Most stallioners have some specific methods of their own about how
the stallion should cover the mare, but all of this depends largely upon
how the horse has been educated to service. Some allow the stallion
to come up from immediately behind. Well this will do if hobbles are
always used on the mares, but otherwise this is a dangerous procedure
and the stallion may be seriously injured. The approach of the stallion
from the side or even as far forward as the shoulder of the mare, is the
safer method if the stallion is properly educated.

The attendant of the mare should be instructed to be ready to elevate
the mare's head just as the stallion goes to mount, and then there is
much less danger of her kicking him, as she cannot get both ends up
very well at the same time. In dismounting, the heads of both stallion
and mare should be pulled together, which will throw their hind quarters
away from each other and avoid injury from kicking. Never try to
force a service where the mare is decidedly opposed to the embrace of the
stallion, as the results will not be satisfactory generally. And a service
when the mare is not in condition is a service thrown away.

52 HORSE SENSE.

ONE SERVICE AS GOOD AS ANY NUMBER.

Many mare owners have a "notion" — it is nothing more — that two
'or three services are better than one. But when it is positively known
that there is sufficient vitalizing power in one service for seven or eight
mares (as that many mares have been artificially impregnated from the
one service) is certainly sufficient to satisfy the most incredulous, that
one service is all that is necessary if conditions are all right.

ARTIFICIAL IMPREGNATION BY INJECTION.

It is far better where a stallion has a heavy run of business, to arti-
ficially impregnate all those over and above the number that would over-
tax the stallion. Keep the stallion vigorous and then a large number
of his patrons may be artificially impregnated. It has been success-
fully demonstrated that the seed or vital fluid can be extracted from
the mare after service, kept as long as five hours, divided among as
many as seven mares, injected into their wombs and the whole eight
get in foal. That is the first served by the stallion and the other seven
by artificial impregnation. This last method is the only outlet for get-
ting the very best stock and not have the sires overtaxed, minimize the
service fees and have more good colts.

CHAPTER X.

GOVERNMENT OWNERSHIP OF STALLIONS.

The question of government ownership of all service stallions deserves
more than passing notice. What France has done, and is still doing, in
that line, is well worth pondering over. By a decree of Dec. 9, i860,
subsidies or prizes of from 100 to 600 francs each (according to the breed-
ing and quality) were authorized to be given to approved mares with
colts by government stallions. Besides this, large sums are given in
prizes at the annual exhibitions. May 5, 1870, the department of agri-
culture appointed a director general, eight inspectors, twenty-six sub-
directors, ten superintendents and twenty-six veterinaries. The work
of this department was so satisfactory that, in 1874, the number of stal-
lions owned by the government throughout France was ordered in-
creased 200 per year until they should number 2,500, and the appropria-
tions necessary for prizes awarded to breeding animals should reach
1,500,000 francs per annum.

WHAT THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT IS DOING FOR HORSE-
BREEDING.

In this organization by the French government there has been one
central object constantly kept in view; that is, the encouragement of the
people, by every means possible, to adopt a higher standard of breeding.
In order that this purpose might be accomplished, the choicest stallions
of the different breeds and types were introduced into each locality, and
offered for use to the mare owners at a nominal fee for service. To
further prevent the use of inferior animals, a decree was issued in 1885
excluding from public service all stallions not authorized by the govern-
ment.

In 1S87 the government owned 2,460 stallions, and exported 34,518
horses from France during the same year, as shown by statistics, which
demonstrates the appreciation other countries have for French horses.

WHAT THIS COUNTRY MIGHT DO IF UNDERTAKEN.

This country could accomplish far more under a similar system, from
our vast extent of territory and abundance of cheap feed. But as long
as every individual is determined to breed just what his peculiar whims
may suggest, just so long will we fail to have a uniformity of our horses
in the different types.

BREEDERS' ASSOCIATIONS.

If the various breeders' associations of the country can accomplish
the work of breeding from only the sound stallions and in uniform lines,
we may yet see great results, but it looks as though nothing short of
government control will bring about the desired results.

CHAPTER XL

SELECTION AND CARE OF BROOD-MARES.

Selection of Brood-AIares.

The breeder's selection of his brood-mares, must depend on the uses
he intends the produce for. Without a definite object in view from the
beginning, more or less failures will naturally follow; and to be more
fully understood. We will describe what we verily believe to be the points
of greatest merit in the selection of the brood-mares for any type of
breeding.

SIZE.

The size of the brood-mares will depend on the class of animals de-
sired in the offspring. If draft stock is the object, then the brood-mares
must of necessity be large, for the desired results. If it is to be coachers;
then she must be the required size, style and lofty action desired by the
fanciers of that type. If for the road, then she must not be large, or her
progeny will be too apt to have so much weight that they will give out
in the legs or feet.

STYLE.

The style of brood-mare should always correspond with the best
of the type to which she belongs. Style in the carriage of the head and
tail, as well as that of the action of our road and carriage horses, is of
the utmost importance to the breeder. Size, style, ranginess and finish
in all of our pleasure horses arc the requisites that bring the profits to
the producer, and unless the brood-mare possesses these, it will be a
difficult matter for the offspring to manifest it.

QUALITY.

The general character of all brood-mares should be much the same in
many respects, viz: fine of the class to which they belong; i. e., fine
dense material in the feet; fine dense bones with strong clean joints; fine,
soft hair; fine grained, pliant skm; bright, expressive eyes; fine heads;
fine, well set upright ears and fine hair in the mane and tail.

NERVE FORCE OF MOTIVE POWER.

This force is equally applicable to all classes of brood-mares in pro-
portion to the anticipated work of their descendants.

Even the slow work of the draft horse, should manifest itself in a
vigorous walk of the brood-mare; but too much of it makes a very un-
pleasant draft horse, and a want of it makes a drone that nobody wants
for any purpose, if he understands himself.

HORSE SENSE. t)0

The more active duties to be performed, the more nerve power is
needed. The coacher want? sufficient nerve force to enable him to always
hold his head up, and to step off. as ihough he was fully alive to all the
surrounding.s, but not of the character that would Midicate that there
was danger of running away at any instant and endangering life and
limb. The genuine roadster is so full of it that the end of the journey is
reached at any distance without apparent fatigue, and the reliable trotter
cannot have too much of it, if the instinct to trot is strong enough to
keep at the required gait.

So much is dependent on the education of our horses that we fre-
quently have difficulty in determining whether the manifested vitality is
natural, or acquired from the manner in which the animal is, or has been
handled. If it is natural, it will be lasting as a never failing spring of
water; but if from bad handling, it will die out, or be manifest in ?arly
decay. Too much stress cannot be laid on the character of the nerve
force, or motive power. This power may be known by the prominence
and brightness of the eye, quick moveinents of the ears, prompt and elas-
tic movements in gait and action generally, as well as fully alive and
ready to all surroundings.

The careful breeders of today are probably paying more attention to
the nerve force of their breeding stock than to any other qualification;
as so inuch is dependent on this, for begetting, maturing, developing and
maintainmg a useful career that it must not be lost sight of.

CONFORMATION.

The brood-mare should have a good deep, capacious body, with plenty
of lung room; broad across the loin and deep from loin to flank; strong,
short back and long under the belly; a broad, roomy pelvis (rump) to in-
sure easy delivery; a rather slim neck and not too close ribbed (to insure
her to be a good milker); a clean cut head, with upright, active ears;
prominent, but mild eyes; large, thin, expansive nostrils, and thin, com-
pressed lips; her bones should be of good size for the general makeup
of the animal, with smooth, clean cut joints.

Her muscular system should be well developed in every particular;
especially the loin, shoulders, quarters, forearms and gaskins. The ten-
dons generally must be of good size, well defined and of the "whip cord"
order; remembering always that these will vary with the size and quality
of the mare, as well as the type or breed to which she belongs.

CHARACTER OF THE BROOD-MARE.

The character of a brood-mare, both for constitution, soundness, dis-
po.=ition, habits and regular breeder, together with motherly inclinations
and a good milker, are essential features that no one versed in the busi-
ness will overlook.

PEDIGREE.

The pedigree of the brood-mare is of far more importance, than
three-fourths of our breeders even imagine. Her blood lines should be
carefully investigated, to ascertain if there has been no impure or mongrel

56 HORSE SENSE.

blood introduced into the breeding of her antecedents, that will be a
damage in the results to be attained; "as the sins of the fathers shall be
visited to the third and fourth generations."

PARALLEL BLOOD LINES.

By parallel blood lines we have reference to those bred in the same
general family or of the same type of animals. In other words, adhere
as closely to the desirable family characteristics, as is possible for the
best results. Cross-breeding must be condemned as impracticable in this
age of improvement. We must make as few mistakes as the development
of the science of breeding will permit. With all the care we can be-
stow, there will be more or less culling to be done from time to time, to
keep up the standard of excellence that should be desired.

IN-BREEDING.

While we do not strongly advocate in-breeding, we are strongly op-
posed to cross-breeding. No true type of animals can be maintained by
cross-breeding; on the other hand, all types of animals have been made
and maintained, by strictly adhering to the best selections of the same
family, as is borne out in the investigations of the improvements of our
best breeders. If we want draft horses we must adhere to the principle
of breeding only typical draft mares to our best draft stallions, road
mares to our best trotting stallions; coachers to the type of stallions that
will bring us coachers, etc., etc., etc.

HAP-HAZARD BREEDING.

The hap-hazard breeding that has been going on for many years,
makes it imperative, that every breeder, making a choice of brood-mares,
should use the utmost care in his selections for any class, to prevent
getting just what he may be trying to avoid in the offspring he is aiming
to produce. Blood and good quality will tell at every breeding, and an
undesirable infusion, is possible to give you an amount of trouble, that
many years of painstaking will not enable you to eradicate. In breed-
ing stock, mdividual excellence in connection with the best inherited
characters, is, of course, desirable in all cases; but, when it is impossible
to secure this combination of cjualities, the breeder should not lose sight
of the fact that the greatest perfection in the individual, will not com-
pensate for ancestral defects that have been frequently repeated, as the
latter will in all probability have a predominant influence upon the ofif-
spring.

THE BROOD MARE IN RELATION TO THE STALLION TO
BE USED.

After the selection of the brood-mare for the purpose designed, then
an equally important choice is the selection of the stallion to which she
is to be bred. Remember that absolutely perfect mares or stallions in
every particular is the next thing to an impossibility; hence to improve
in the offspring, is to select a stallion that is certainly strong in any par-
ticular in which the mare may be wanting. If both have weaknesses of

HORSE SENSE. 0<^

the same character and arc bred together, then these weaknesses are too
apt to be intensified in the progeny and general degeneracy as a natural
result will follow.

Another essential feature th.at should never be forgotten, is that the
weakest point in the brood-mare or stallitm is the measure of his or her
power, the same as the "weakest link in the chain is the estimate of the
strength of the chain." In other words the back cannot do the work of
the legs, or vice versa. Consequently the importance of carefully exam-
ining both sire and dam for weaknesses before mating. The strong points
will take care of themselves as will the dollars, if we take care of the
pennies. If the stallion and mare are the counterpart of each other in
an\' natural defects, then you will be acting judiciously to look farther
before breeding.

PREPOTENCY.

We wish to be understood by prepotency in the brood-mare, that she
possesses the power through her ancestral inheritance, to transmit to her
progeny the strong characteristics of her family; and by her being bred to
a sire in the same line of breeding, her produce will be of great value in
the perpetuation of the qualities of the type; whereas if she is not pre-
potent, then you have to rely on the power of the sire altogether.

FECUNDITY OF THE BROOD-MARE.

By fecundity we understand that the brood-mare is fruitful, or in
other words, she is a regular breeder. And to determine before trial
what she is likely to be as a regular producer, it is very essential to in-
quire into the history of her family. If her dam was a regular breeder
and her mother before her, as well as their sires sure foal getters, and if
they were, then you are quite safe that she will be profitable.

INHERITED PRE-DISPOSITION.

Inherited pre-disposition to disease or other defects in the brood-mare
may not show in herself; if there has been any in her ancestors it is al-
most certain to be manifest in some of her offspring, without the great-
est care is manifest in the selection of the sire to which she is bred.

We must stop with points of selection for fear we shall discourage
the young breeder with details; but we must unhesitatingly say that the
more experience, observation and study we have, the more we see that
it is by no means guess-work. Breeding has become, to a great degree,
a science, and the more we conform to the laws of the science, the
greater progress we are likely to make. While we feel that we are by
no means through with the matters of importance in selection, we must
proceed with the care of the brood-mare.

CARE OF THE BROOD-MARE.

The care of the brood-mare for the best results, can be summed up in
this: that the highest state of vigor and activity through her whole or-
ganization will be mainly what will be required.

But the question will naturally be asked, how can this condition be
best acquired? Our answer is: feed regularly good nutritious food of not

58 HORSE SENSE.

a highly carbonaceous character, but sufficient to keep the mare in fair
condition, yet by no means fat. Fat is at all times a detriment to vital
actions. The food should be generous but should not be given to the
degree of gormandizing. Only moderate rations at the proper times
should be indulged in. Foods of bone forming constituents can be used
liberally to advantage; such as bran, oilmeal in small quantities, and oats
with corn and cornfodder, but always in connection with plenty of ex-
ercise. Brood-mares should be turned out for exercise every day. Large
quantities of innutritious food, such as straw and poor hay, is a detri-
ment to brood-mares heavy in foal.

BEST TIME TO BREED.
Nature almost always indicates the proper time to commence breed-
ing. Frequently, if the weather in this north latitude is warm in March
or April, mares are very sure to come in heat; but our experience is that
where one mare gets in foal, three or four will fail when bred before the
middle of May or June. However, where you are supplied with your
own stallion, the breeding might be commenced at any time and con-
tinued indefinitely, if very early colts are desired in the spring or late
in the fall or even winter. But the chances are so much against the
practice, that it will not be successful in the long run to make it a busi-
ness with public sires. People generally, who have not had much ex-
perience, are too apt to lay the failure at the door of the stallion, when
the condition of the mare is far more at fault than the stallion.

PECULIAR NOTIONS ABOUT WHEN TO BREED.

There are a great many peculiar notions about the particular stage
of the heat to breed; and especially in relation to the sex of the antici-
pated offspring. We have made many observations in this relation, and
"have come to this conclusion: that the very best time to breed is when
the mare is at the height of the heat. And if at that time, the stallion
is in the height of vigor and the mare is somewhat debilitated or fatigued,
the prospects are more favorable for colts than fillies, and vice versa.
Still, you must not construe the manifestation of vigor to a sprightly
action alone. The one recovering the most rapidly from fatigue, has the
advantage in controlling the sex. Stallions kept at active exercise, but
not to the point of fatigue will get a majority of horse colts; and those
given but a limited amount of exercise are generally apt to get more fil-
lies than colts, if the mares are strong and vigorous. But there are so
many varying conditions that even this cannot be relied upon.

CONDITION OF THE MARE WHEN BRED.

Probably the most important consideration at the breeding time, is
to know that your mares are in a healthy state, in relation to their gen-
erative organs.

Mares that have worked hard and been exposed to inclement weather
through the winter, are often troubled with leucorrhea or whites, known
hy a copious discharge from the parts; frequently taken for the height
■of the heat. This is a tenacious mucous that will act as a hindrance

HORSE SENSE. 59

rather than an aid to impregnation, and it will be of no advantage to
breed the mare although she is in heat.

jNIares troubled this way, will remain in heat much longer than those
in a healthj' condition. The disease acts as a local irritant and keeps up
the excitement. The treatment of this difficulty, consists in cleansing
the parts by a thorough syringing with warm water and best English
castile soap, and then follow with an injection of an infusion of Witch
Hazel leaves (Hamamelis). a half an ounce of leaves to a quart of boil-
ing water; let stand, covered, until only blood warm, then use with a
syringe as before. This cleansing process should be continued daily
until the mare is well, when she may be bred with success.

EARLY GRASS NATURE'S RENOVATOR OF THE SYSTEM.
Early grass is Nature's great renovator of the system, and for this
reason, mares are more certain to conceive after grass comes than be-
fore. Many advocate fall breeding, but there is where the difficulty
comes in; if the mare's generative organs are healthy, it is all right; but
too many are badly debilitated from a hard summer's work, to make it
anything like a sure business generally.

EXAMINATION OF WOMB.

If mares are kept fat during the winter, it is important to make an
examination, to ascertain that the mouth of the womb is open; and if
closed (which fat often does) it should be gently dilated before she is
bred, or there is little or no use of the service. The fingers coated with
belladonna ointment will serve to aid in the dilitation. Some use the
soft rubber impregnitator, which remains in place during copulation
(service) and aids the seed in being carried to the proper place.

TRYING THE MARE.

There is but little trouble in determining when the mare is at the
proper stage of the heat for successful breeding; she will plainly indicate
it w-ithout the excessive teasing and annoyance usually gone through
with. No doubt many of the irritable dispositions of our horses could
be traced to the terrible ordeal their dams went through with at the
teasing rack. Don't allow your mares to be "chewed up" at the "try
pole." Take them to some other horse, rather than have them seriously
annoyed by a stallion in the hands of thoughtless or careless grooms.
You are laying the foundation for future generations of horses and it
behooves you to have nothing interfere with the successful beginning.
As little excitement with both mare and stallion before and at time of
service, we believe to be the best for the progeny. If the mare can be
left for a time in sight and hearing of the stallion, it is preferable, if she
is naturally nervous.

RETURNING THE MARE FOR TRIAL.
If the mare was bred at Ihe proper time, she should be returned in
twenty-one days, and if she then refuses, don't tease her, but return in

60 HORSE SENSE.

one week, then the second week, and so on, till the fourth or fifth week,
and if she still refuses she is almost certainly in foal.

TREATMENT OF THE MARE WHILE IN FOAL.
The mare in foal should have daily exercise, but not of too exhaust-
ive a character, nor too sudden and rapid. If a draft mare, she should
not be pulled too hard, and if a trotter, she should not be trotted too far
or very fast, after the middle of the term of utero-gestation. But regu-
lar exercise is absolutely essential for ihe best results.

FOOD FOR THE MARE IN FOAL.

The best food for the mare in foal is bone and muscle making food,
such as oats, bran, some corn, a little oil-meal cake and carrots; corn
fodder and good hay in small quantities. Concentrated food is the best
where there is tendency to relaxation of the bowels. A large quantity
of feed given at any time in connection with vigorous exercise, is liable
to bring on a miscarriage; oats or flax straw in large quantities may
produce diarrhoea, and abortion follow. Regular exercise and good
nourishing food in moderate quantities, is always the sure road to suc-
cess with the mare in foal.

PERIOD OF UTERO-GESTATION.

The mare usually carries her foal about eleven months; but the time
will vary so greatly sometimes, as to give room for doubt of all being
right with the mare or her foal, yet when we know that the time may be
shortened even five weeks, or extended six weeks, it is not best to enter
into special interference without there is evident trouble with the mare.
Large and slow maturing mares are more liable to carry the foal longer
than the close built mares of early maturity; yet this may vary in either
case from the character of the food or from some accident that will bring
on foaling sooner than otherwise.

TIME OF FOALING.

At the time of foaling, the mare should have all her surroundings as
quiet and as comfortable as your circumstances will at all permit.

If the weather is warm and pleasant the paddock or field is the best
place; otherwise a good roomy box stall will do very well, in which case
it will pay well to keep a close watch of her movements, and as soon as
you find that she is in pain, you should stay with her until the foal is on
its feet and taking its nourishment properly.

Don't be officiotis and try to hurry matters along before there is good
and sufficient reason for your interference. IMany a good mare and foal
has been destroyed by what is called scientific delivery, an ofificious in-
terference. Nature will do her work v.'ell, if you have done yours prop-
erly in the feed and care of the mare beforehand. Sometimes the foal
may be so large and the mare's pelvis so small, that the labor may be
prolonged until the mare is very much exhausted, when your help may
be a great advantage, both in assistance in delivery and in sustaining
the mare afterwards.

HORSE SENSE. 61

When the head and front feet have appeared and the shoulders re-
main a long time, with hard trials and sufficient intervals for rest, then,
and not until then, will it be prudent to render your assistance, which
will be by taking hold of the legs and pulling, only, when the mare
makes an effort at expulsion.

If the mare has had a hard labor, she may be so prostrated that she
will be unable to rise after foaling, in which case it will be of great ad-
vantage (and may save the life of your mare) to have ready some warm
oatmeal gruel (very thin) to give her from a pail or bottle.

WRONG PRESENTATIONS.
Whenever other than the natural presentations are present (which
are very unusual) you should lose no time in securing the best vet-
erinary skill that you can get, before it is too late. Whatever you do,
don't go at the mare as though you expected to get the foal away in a
minute. Remember that you are dealing with muscular and serous tis-
sues, as well as nerves in a highly wrought state, and it is necessary to
move deliberately and cautiously, for the success of both dam and foal.

AFTER FOALING.

The mare should be watched carefully to see that she is kept warm
enough, as a chill may be the cause of serious difficulties that will re-
quire great skill to recover from. Her food should be of the laxative
character, and only given in very moderate quantities for several days,
when it may be increased as the foal becomes strong enough to take
and digest it well. Many mares are inordinately thirsty after foaling,
and if indulged to their satisfaction, both dam and foal are apt to get
into trouble. If she drinks large quantities of cold water it is liable to
derange her digestion, and the foal will have diarrhea; when as a rule,
the majority of people begin dosing the foal, whereas, if the attention is
given to the mare, in the reduction of the water drank one-half, and a
reduced ration of food, the mare and foal both will soon be well, with-
out any medicine v/hatever. As soon as the mare is strong enough
and the weather will permit, both she and her foal should have plenty
of exercise daily, and if her food is in proper quantity and quality, both
mare and foal will do well until weaning time, when the colt will be
treated under a separate chapter.

We have dwelt at apparent length in some particulars in this article,
but, we fully realize that the horse business is daily improving and we
must make the best of it, if we meet the sharp competition of the future
on an equal basis with the foremost breeders of the land. Generalities
are good for general observation, but when we wish to fathom the depths
of any business, we must then go into the details.

CARE OF THE YOUNG FOAL.

After the foal is up and around it should have a free operation of the
bowels. If it should not you will notice that it is uneasy; it will switch
its tail, draw up at the flanks, breath short and strain more or less. It
is time now to prepare an injection of slippery elm water, flgx seed water

62 HORSE SENSE.

or even castile soap suds and inject it into the bowels freely, until the
large bowels are emptied; to be repeated if found necessary. But don't
resort to physic, without you are compelled to. Better depend on laxa-
tive food for the dam, than to derange the stomach of the little fellow by
medicines that irritate.

If the mare refuses to own her foal she should be tied both ways in
her box stall and shackled all around.

CHAPTER XII.

HEREDITARY TRAITS IN HORSES.

Hereditary entailment is not confined to deformity. It is now cer-
tain that all defects are transmissible, and that accidental deformities
frequently become perpetuated in the progeny. But it is not alone
physical deformity that may be entailed. Habits, peculiarities of tem-
per and behavior, and many singularities are transmitted with unerring
certainty.

MARE WEAVING IN HER STALL.

A well-known mare had a habit of weaving, — swaying her head back
and forth in her stall, — and at the same time raising one foot and then
the other about an inch from the ground. She had three colts, and the
habit was transmitted to each.

MARE NEVER KNOWN TO LIE DOWN IN HER STALL.

A mare that was never known to lie down. This mare, for thirteen
years, was never seen ofif her feet except to roll, and she foaled a filliy
which inherited the same peculiarity.

.MARE THAT WAS BOSS OF THE YARD.

The mare that takes her own part in the field and bosses the yard,
will, in all probability, produce a foal that will be equally domineering.

MARE THAT WOULD NOT STEP OVER AN OBSTRUCTION.

We know of a mare that will not step over an obstruction a foot high,
and the bars must all be let down to the bottom before she will leave
the field, and one out of five of her produce evince the same disposition.

HABIT OF SCRAPING BACK THE BEDDING.

The habit of scraping the bedding back, and piling it up in the rear
of the stall, is certainly hereditary.
MARE THAT COULD NOT BE TURNED OUT TO PASTURE.

A friend has a mare that cannot be turned out to pasture because of
her propensity to jump fences. A filly out of this mare has developed
this same propensity in a marked degree.

A STALLION THAT HELD UP ONE FOOT WHILE EATING
HIS GRAIN.

A prominent sire that we knew very well had the habit of holding
one front foot off the floor while eating his oats, and this habit was
transmitted to many of his offspring.

64 HORSE SENSE.

A STALLION THAT WAS VERY DAINTY ABOUT HIS DRINK-
ING WATER.

A sire that was very dainty about the drinking water offered him,
produced the same characteristic in his progeny, while another, that
drank very rapidly and unhesitatingly, transmitted a similar disposition
to many of his get.

THE OLD MARE THAT WAS HANDY ABOUT OPENING
DOORS OR GATES.

The old mare that could open the stable door, get into the grain bin,
etc., is very apt to impart a similar disposition to some of her descend-
ants.

HEREDITY OF GAIT IS NOT ALWAYS TRANSMISSABLE
UNIFORMLY.

A few trotting sires or trotting dams produce speed uniformly, but
the trotting instinct, and the disposition to do nothing but trot, is not
so strongly hereditary in a large proportion of the progeny that the ab-
sence forms the exception to the rule.

LOOK OUT FOR HEREDITARY TRANSMISSION OF OBJEC-
TIONABLE FEATURES.

The heredity of straight pasterns, small knees and hocks, tied in be-
low the knee and hock; toeing out, toeing in, interfering, too high or
too low gaited, and, in fact, everything or anything that is not desira-
ble, must be observed and avoided, because the law of heredity is bound
to be manifest for good or evil, and it is our place to avoid the bad
and preserve the good characteristics of our horses.

The whole problem of heredity presents the most interesting phe-
nomena. The lessons that are being learned from the wonders it pre-
sents in the material universe are of incalculable value to the scientific
breeder. To him heredity has a wide significance. He takes advantage
of the hereditary tendencies toward good qualities, and works from those
that bring bad forms and compromising progeny.

CHAPTER XIII.

THE NUMBER AND VALUATION OF THE HORSES OF THE
UNITED STATES.

The highest number ever reached by our horses was in 1893, when
they counted up to 16,206,802, and were valued at $61.22 per head.

The highest valuation ever placed upon our horses was in 1884,
when it was put at $74.64 per head, and then they numbered 11,169,683.

The lowest valuation ever placed upon our horses was in 1897, when
it was $31.51 per head, and they numbered 14,364,667.

The total valuation of our horses in 1892 was $1,007,593,636, and five
years later, in 1897, the valuation had fallen ofif $554,944,240, over half a
billion dollars. Is it any wonder that we thought the bottom had fallen
out of the horse business? While we have gained $58,425,417 in valu-
ation in the last two years, on a losing basis of 699,360 horses, if we had
only held our own in numbers, the increased total valuation, instead of
the amount just mentioned, would have been $84,564,387, showing that
we are getting back to the old standard of prices as rapidly as we can
reasonably expect.
ENCOURAGEMENT TO THE BREEDERS OF THE PRESENT.

If the above is not encouraging to the farmers who have good brood
mares, I am frank to confess I do not know what would stimulate them
to action.

The greatest point with the breeders (and they are the farmers) of
today is, that they must see to it that they exercise more care in the
selections of breeding stock. The standard of size, quality, symmetry
and action is getting higher and higher, and to be "in it" you must be
"in it" for all there is "in it."

Foreign countries are now looking to America for their war horses
as well as drivers and drafters, and there is every indication that we will
be unable to supply their demands over and above the requirements of
our own country, notwithstanding the great laudation of the automobile
to the displacement of the noble, faithful and reliable equine race.

CHAPTER XIV.

FARMERS AS HORSE BREEDERS.

We want the farmers who have good brood mares to fully understand
that the future promises a greater demand for horses of high quality,
\n any of the established types, than for many years, notwithstanding the
trolley cars, automobiles, bicycles, etc. The decrease in the number
of horses in the United States was nearly 300,000 head within the past
year, yet the total valuation (even with this heavy loss) has increased
$32,712,417, regardless of the hue and cry by the newspaper writers that
"the horseless age is upon us."

FARMERS BREED AND RAISE NEARLY ALL THE HORSES
OF THE COUNTRY.

Now, don't forget that the very large majority of all our horses are
bred and raised by farmers. Then should not all the farmers who have
brood mares of high quality fully understand the true situation? It is
from the best brood mares that we must expect to get the character of
horses demanded by the buyers. Unless we have brood mares of good
quality, we will fall far short of our expectation in the produce, no mat- .
ter how much quality is possessed by the sire.

THE STALLION CONSIDERED HALF THE HERD.

While it is a trueism that should never be forgotten, that the sire
is half the herd, and we must look to him to make improvements in
conformation to a great degree, it is also as important that the brood
mare possess the quality, stamina, nerve force, endurance and intelligence
necessary to enable her to transmit these essential characteristics to her
produce.

MIXING OF BREEDS IS FOLLOWED WITH DISASTROUS

RESULTS.

There is another thing the horse-breeeding farmer should clearly
understand, and that is, we can never mix our several breeds and types
of horses in the breeding relation without great danger of losing some
of the best qualities possessed by sire or dam, whereas when we adhere
to the same class, our chances are much better for improvement. When
we cross-breeed we often lose the identity of both breeds, and the mix-
ture in the ofifspring (if a filly) will require several generations to eradi-
cate by the most careful methods.

HORSE SENSE. 67

THE FARM HORSE.

Besides raising horses for market, it will be wise for breeders to con-
sider the right kind of horse to raise for the farmer. There are hun-
dreds of thousands of horses used on the farms of this country, and this
number must be renewed in part every year. The farmer is really the
greatest factor in the horse market today, and a little consideration of his
needs is necessary.

ACTIVITY AND PROMPTNESS ESSENTIAL IN THE FARM
HORSE.

Strength is not the sole requisite in a farm horse. The true farmer's
horse is one equally serviceable in pulling the plow or trotting to market
with a light wagon. The farm horse should thus be a medium between
the draft and road horse, and may be of the light draft stock or of the
heavier of the road types. Courage, determination, and quickness in tak-
ing hold of loads are very important qualities in this kind of horse.
Animals weighing i,ioo pounds, with these qualities, will often be more
serviceable than the team that weighs hundreds of pounds more. A
quick, steady walker is very essential. Did you ever stop to compute
how many days' work you could save in plowing a field with a quick
walking team as compared with a slow one? The team that gets over
the ground rapidly saves time and money to the owner.

Farm horses should have good lung power and good feet and legs
for the farm. The farmer who attempts to raise colts for his own use
should be careful to select good breeders, that will produce progeny of
the desired type. Very often the farm.er can raise his own horses bet-
ter than some professional breeder.

DRAFT HORSES FOR THE FARMER.

The advantages to the fanner in breeding draft horses is that they
require less care in handling and training, because they are not so
hot blooded as the carriage and road horses generally, and will there-
fore go to market with less preparation. Then, again, slight injuries
from wire fences and trifling blemishes through accidents, reduce the
market value less than in the more highly finished types. The demand
for the production of horses of first quality of all types is slowly but
surely improving, and every farmer who has brood mares tending
towards the draft type, should not fail to select the best draft stallions
obtainable to breed to. It costs no more to raise a well-formed, mus^
cular, strongly-constituted horse than a nondescript, weakling good-
for-nothing.

VALUE OF THE HORSE IN HIS MOVING POWER.

The intrinsic value of our horses is in their moving power, and, as a
consequence, the horse is valueless when standing still; therefore, the
closest attention should be given to producing animals with the best of
feet and legs. Associate with these a good digestive organization, with

68 HORSE SENSE.

strong muscular development, and we have greatly improved the work-
ing value of our horses, — and this is the end sought by the breeder,
feeder and handler.

THE UNDERSIZED, DEFECTIVE DRAFT SIRES GELDED.
Keep the matter of soundness, size, symmetry, quality, perfection and
disposition constantly in mind, and pass the ill-formed, blemished, un-
dersized stallions by, never using any of them, and they will soon be
gelded and set to menial labor, and the country will be thousands upon
thousands of dollars richer; but if we continue to use them as sires, we
will be growing poorer every year.

SIZE OF THE DRAFT BROOD-MARE VERY IMPORTANT.

To get size in what we produce, we must have large, roomy brood
mares, and we should give as much attention to soundness and quality
in the brood mare as in the stallion. We must conform to the great
natural law of "like begetting like" if we ever make the desired im-
provement. If it is size we want, this should be carefully observed in
both sire and dam. Add quality, symmetry, constitution and disposition
to both, and we will make great improvement but disregard all these,
and then we are sure to conclude horse-raising don't pay. We should
study this question more thoroughly, and then we will have greater suc-
cess and fewer failures.

CHAPTER XV.

INTELLIGENCE OF THE HORSE.

A great deal has been said and written about the intelligence of ani-
mals, and almost all agree that dogs, monkeys and elephants are highly
endowed; but some believe the horse is about the dumbest of all
animals.

EDUCATION OF THE HORSE VERY IMPORTANT IN RELA-
TION TO HIS WORK.

The great reason for believing the horse a dumb brute is that edu-
cators have had the least patience with the horse, owing to the fact that
an iron bit is used in his mouth, and he is by this means forced to do his
master's will, without understanding just what is desired of him. The
difference in the manifestations of intelligence is due m.ore to the edu-
cator than the animal to be educated.

WONDERFUL MEMORY OF THE HORSE.

There is certainly one point decidedly in favor of the horse in re-
spect to his education, and that is, that whatever he learns and under-
stands he never forgets; and this cannot be truthfully said of all men.
Horses, like people, have strong likes and dislikes, and where one edu-
cator succeeds, another will fail. It is all in the horse and man thor-
oughly understanding, or not understanding, each other, and by mutual
consent being friends or enemies.

VALUE OF SUGAR FOR THE NERVOUS WILD HORSE.

That through the medium of the stomach is the surest road to the
aflfections of the horse, there can be no question, when associated with
otherwise kind treatment. Sugar being a little sweeter than the dam's
milk, man may, by the use of this tempting morsel, divert the affections
of the young colt from its dam to himself, and thereby make a lasting
and faithful friend of the horse when matured. We know of no other
one thing that has so m.uch to do in gaining the attention and good will
of the nervous wild horse as small quantities of sugar, fed from the hand
of man, in the spirit of kindness and affection. By this treatment and
education, the valuable and trusty animal is made; and the reverse treat-
ment makes him unreliable and dangerous.

THE HORSE AND HIS INSTRUCTOR SHOULD UNDER-
STAND EACH OTHER.

The earlier we begin the education of our horses, the more valuable
servants they make, and the more money they will bring in the market.

70 HORSE SENSE.

The horse appreciates kind, intelligent treatment as well as man, and
when the horse and his tutor fully understand each other, it is astonish-
ing how rapidly the horse acquires his education.

The domestication and education of the horse was undoubtedly first
practiced in Asia, next in Europe and Africa, and afterwards in America,
Australia and New Zealand. Even among the natives of the latter
country, they practice one of the most humane and absolutely safe
methods (though very crude) in training and quieting the wild horse
than probably any others in the world, appealing wholly to horse sense
and familiarity.

A HORSE THAT REGULATES HIS OWN HOUSEHOLD.

My attention was recently called to a case of almost human intelli-
gence in a horse. The animal is Trusty Gun, owned by Mr. G. L.
Harmon, Machias, Maine. He is a dark bay gelding, 15. i hands, and
weighs 1,050 pounds. He was sired by Parker Gun, a son of Jay Bird,
by George Wilkes. His dam was Aunt Rhoda, by Trusty Boy, son of
Mambrino Patchen.

When very young this horse showed rare intelligence, and now
some of his regular habits are little less than marvelous. He has been
furnished two box stalls, one adjoining the other, and connected with
a door. One of these rooms has its floor covered with about four inches
of mill sawdust, and is used by the animal as a bedroom. The sawdust
is renewed but twice a year, and only then because of the dust that is
brought in on the colt's feet.

"The room adjoining this sleeping-room is used as a living-room.
In one corner is an iron feed dish, below which is a crib for hay. An-
other corner is used by the horse for his excraments. At one side of
the room is a box, 20x30 inches, which is used as a urinal, and never
since this box was built has the horse used any other part of the room
for this purpose. The box is kept filled with sawdust, which is renewed
often. The blanket which the colt wore was spotless, and not so much
as a stain has ever found its way to either cover or horse.

THE STOLEN HORSE KNEW HOW TO OPEN HIS STABLE
DOOR.

A gentleman in Vermont had a favorite ]\Iorgan horse stolen, and
four years after, he saw, in his native town, a horse that he thought was
the one he had lost, and told the man so who had him, but the man as-
cured him that he came rightfully by the horse and had paid his hard
earned cash for him, and was not willing to hear of another's claim to his
favorite animal. The man who had lost the horse said: If you will
drive up in the alley back of my barn, and let the horse have his own
way, and if he does not go straight to my stable door, pull out the wooden
pin that fastens the door, push the door open and go directly to the third
stall from the end of the barn and take his place there, I will feel cer-
tain that he is not mine, but if he does, then you should be convinced
that he has been there before by his own efforts. The man who had

HORSE SENSE. 71

the horse thought tlie offer a fair one and agreed to do so. When the
horse was unhitched and left to go his own way he went straight to the
stable door, pulled out the pin, pushed open the door and took his place
in the third stall, as predicted by his former owner. The man said, that
is a very clever feat, and shows that the horse must have been here be-
fore, but it is not sufficient proof that you are the present lawful owner.
When the neighbors all testified that the horse had been stolen from the
owner of the place, and that they felt sure that the horse was the same,
the man very reluctantly gave up the ownership, even though he said
he would rather part with $250.

A HORSE THAT KNEW BUSINESS FROM PLEASURE.

James P. Barton, Scranton, Pa., owns Kittie D., a great grand-
daughter of Hambletonian 10. He says: "I use the mare for light driv-
ing, also for delivery purposes, and she will not miss one of my two
hundred or more customers without a word from me. I can take her
from the delivery wagon and hitch her to my road rig, and if she ofYers
to stop at a single one of my customers, I will make any one a present
of her."

A HORSE THAT FULLY APPRECL\TED HIS PRESERVER.

"An incident which showed intelligence in a most emphatic manner
occurred at the recent big lire at Waukegan, 111. It has been related how
George Sells rescued his horse at great peril to himsejf, but it was not
stated how the animal appreciated its master's services. After entering
the burning barn, Mr. Sells merely untied the horse. Exhibiting little
or no excitement, the animal stuck its head over its master's shoulder,
gently rubbing its head against his face. Mr. Sells walked out hurriedly
and the horse followed meekly after him, retaining the position men-
tioned. Mr. Sells tied the horse to a fence and was standing watching
the progress of the fire, when suddenly he felt something rub against his
face, and, looking up, there stood his horse again gently and affection-
ately rubbing its head against his cheek, as if to express its appreciation
of its master's rescuing it from the flames. The dumb brute had broken
the halter with which it had been tied in order to walk to its master's
side to further express its feelings. Mr. Sells led the animal away and
tied it again, but with a whinney, it endeavored to persuade him not to
>eave it alone."

A LAME HORSE THAT KNEW WHERE TO GO FOR RELIEF.
A horse, after having been shod at a certain shop, went lame, and
the next day, as soon as his owner turned him lose, the horse imme-
diately went to the shop where he had been shod and took his place on
the floor where the shoe had been nailed on. While the smith tliought
strange of the horse doing so, he drove him out of the shop with a slap.
and as the horse limped ofT he thought no more of the incident. The
next day the horse was still worse, and the owner turned him out of the
stable as before, and he went straight to the shop again, took his posi-
tion on the floor, and held his lame foot up, when the smith took ofif the

72 HORSE SENSE.

shoe and found that one nail had split, and a portion had entered the
sensative tissue. This gave relief and the horse went away and did not
return.

A HORSE THAT KNEW HE WANTED TO BE SHOD.

A large gray horse belonging to J. W. Watkins, known as Old Sam,
visited the blacksmith shop so often that he was led out two or three
times during the day. Sunday morning early he took his stand in front
of the shop, and there he remained all day in the hot sun, never leaving
except when led away by his owner. Monday evening, as soon as un-
hitched, he left his feed, which had been placed in the wagon box, and
again took up his stand in front of the blacksmith shop. By this time a
considerable crowd had gathered at Webster's store, and it was sug-
gested that Old Sam wanted shoeing. The blacksmith was sent for, and
on opening the shop door Old Sam walked in and stood perfectly still,
without bridle or any one holding him while the shoes were being nailed
on. As soon as the job was completed he went back to his feed and has
not visited the shop since.

A HORSE THAT KNEW HOW TO AID HIS MASTER IN
TROUBLE.

A Norwegian farmer fell from his horse, and being severely hurt by
the fall, and unable to extricate his foot from the stirrup, he was almost
helpless. The horse tried to raise his master by laying hold of the brim
of his hat, but, the hat coming ofif, this attempt failed. The horse then
"laid hold of the collar of his coat, and raised him by it so far from the
ground that he was enabled to draw his foot out of the stirrup. After
resting awhile he regained the saddle and reached his home."

A HORSE THAT REALIZED THE CONDITION OF HIS
MASTER.

A friend of the author, and one who can be relied on for the truth
of his statement, was away from home on a Christmas evening on horse-
back (with his favorite horse) to a supper on the frontier, and got the
worse for the sparkling beverages provided liberally for the guests.
When he decided to go home (against the earnest solicitations of his-
friends), he had to be assisted on his horse, but when mounted he and
his friends thought all would result favorably. But when within about
half a mile of home and his horse was feeling a little playful (not realiz-
ing his master's comparative helplessness) roached up his back and
kicked up, and his master went over his head, sprawling in the road.
The jar from the fall and his condition rendered him immovable for the
time being; but the horse stopped suddenly and seemed to wonder what
had happened. He began very cautiously to nose his master's whiskers,
and then rub his lips over the face of his prostrate human friend, when
the man partially rolled over on his side. The horse viewed the situa-
tion for a few minutes, and then taking the man's overcoat at the collar
(as well as the underclothing) carefully in his teeth, he raised the man
on his feet and held him there until his master had got a firm hold with

HORSIi SENSE. i6

both hands into the heavy llowing inane, and then tlic horse began nn)v-
ing slowly towards home, supporting and half carrying his human com-
panion to his own door. This portion of the trip involved the crossing
of the ]\Iusselshell river, in Montana, on the ice, which was done with the
greatest care.

AN EQUINE COON HUNTER.

]Miner Yocumb, of Westphalia. Ind.. has a bay mare that has devel-
oped a strange propensity for an animal of the equine species. She
hunts 'coons. The mare can ""tree" a 'coon as well as the best trained
'coon dog. She can track one by scent alone as accurately and as truly
as a hound. When the animal trees a raccoon she will neigh and paw
around the tree until Mr. Yocumb arrives to capture the 'coon. When
going through the woods the mare ^will stop and smell a tree, and if
there is a 'coon in it she will neigh until assistance comes. Mr. Yocumb
often rides out on his "'coon mare," and never fails to return with two
or three 'coons strapped across the back of his saddle. The mare seems
to delight in hunting. When she strikes a train she will drop her nose
down to the ground and start ofif at a dog-trot. When approaching the
game she pricks up her ears and shows by her frisking that she is near-
ing a 'coon. Mr. Yocumb would not part with the mare at any price.

As this Hoosier story is so far out of the usual sphere of the horse, it
will be looked upon with doulit. but it is certainly not beyond the capac-
ity of some of the equine race, and Mr. Yocumb's friends assure me that
it is all true.

We could cite many more instances to demonstrate the intelligence of
the horse, but we feel that every one who is associated with this greatest
of man's animal friends, has observed enough to know, that those who
treat their horses the kindest and try to teach them what their duties are
without fighting them, are well convinced of what we are trying to im-
press on their minds.

CHAPTER XVI.

HORSE EDUCATION.

More than fifty years' experience in handling, training, breeding and
care of horses, should entitle one to an opinion as well as a knowledge
of the intelligence and susceptability of the horse to a useful education,
notwithstanding many people contend that the horse is about the least
capable of our domestic animals.

HORSES ARE NATURALLY TIMID AND SENSATIVE.

The timidity and natural fear of the horse is no doubt the result of
environment, and he has from time long past depended on flight rather
than battle to avoid his enemies.

THE HORSE A SLAVE TO HUMANITY.

The horse from time immemorial has been hunted, captured , and
forced into servitude for the convenience of man. While the flesh of
many other animals has been used as food; the horse has had to serve out
a life of drudgery, torture and humility, until death relieved him from
human bondage.

THE HORSE CONSIDERED ONLY A BRUTE.

Far too many of the horse's captors, owners and drivers have con-
sidered him only a "brute" to be yanked, kicked, pounded and neg-
lected to man's passion, indifference and sometimes pleasure.

THE HORSE NATURALLY SUBMISSIVE.

Were it not for the fact that the horse is naturally submissive, when
dealt with in accordance with the laws of his organization, he would re-
sent the punishment, scorn the indignities of being tied up by the
head, and exposed to the cold blasts of winter to a hitching post without
a blanket, while his master was enjoying the comforts of a fire and the
companionship of friends, as well as many other sufferings that he is
subjected to, by thoughtless, indifferent, careless or cruel hands.

LAWS OF THE HORSE'S ACTIONS NOT WELL UNDER-
STOOD.

Many books on training have been printed, many horse trainers have
traveled the country over, and many devices have been used to take ad-
vantage of the horse's muscular strength, with the sole idea of subduing,
conquering, overpowering and punishment. But the true principles and
natural laws that govern the horse's actions for easy and natural com-

HORSE SENSE. 75

pHance with the wishes of man, have been ignored, unknown, or mis-
understood. And in too many instances the very means that were in-
tended to aid in the management of the horse, have proved added tor-
tures to him, from a non-compliance of the natural laws governing the
actions of the horse. Nearly all the bad actions of our horses are the
results of misplaced confidence, confusion and a misunderstanding of his-
nature, abuse from his handler or trying to force him to do what he
does not understand. We should always work according to the laws
governing the horse's actions and above all, be sure the horse fully un-
derstands what we want him to do, and at the same time treat him with
the utmost kindness, then he will appreciate what we do for him and in
turn, do for us all he is capable of without complaint.

THE HORSE IS ENDOWED WITH INTELLIGENCE AND
PASSIONS.

If we are not willing to grant that the horse is capable of great in-
telligence, we are sure that he is endowed with much the same passions
that we are, and when both man and horse get angry at the same time,
resentment, destruction and revenge are often manifest, and as the
horse has a very retentive memory, he is often made a dangerous ani-
mal, where he might have been a docile and useful friend.

USEFUL EVERY-DAY LESSONS RATHER THAN TRICKS.

It should be our duty in the education of the horse to confine our-
selves to the every-day practical lessons, which will make him more use-
ful in his duties, rather than to educate him to such tricks as only show
his degree of intelligence, which are seen at the circus and other ex-
hibitions.

The capabilities of the horse for a useful education is greatly depend-
ent on the size, quality and development of the brain, the same as with
man.

It is the universal practice everywhere to look at the head and face
of man to form any idea of his character, and while but few are experts
in reading human character, everybody intuitively forms their opinions,
from this portion of the human anatomy ihstead of some other, and
there is no question but the horse's head and face is as good an index to
his character as that of man to the human family.

The page cut No. 27, of heads of horses is something of a study for
the reader, from the performances of the horses and their reputation.
While they show in some respects many points of resemblance, there are
others of striking differences. Fig. i at the top, represents the heads of
President McKinley's favorite carriage team. Defiance and Selim, the
latter on the ofif side. They are 1634 hands high, both chestnut, strip in
faces, right front and both hind feet white; very stylish and tractable and
can be rode at a 2:40 clip, and said to be the most beautiful and stylish
pair ever owned at the White House. They were bred by Geo. Warren
& Sons, Laurel Hill stock farm. Fox Lake, Wis. They are six years old,
and descendents of the fine Arab stallion. Linden Tree,, presented to

HORSE SENSE.

Cut No. 27.
REPRESENTATIVE HEADS OF HORSES.

HORSE SENSE. 77

President Grant, by the Sultan of Turkey, while on his trip around the
world. These heads are models in outline and should be studied.
Length from base of ears to eyes shows brain power. Fig. 2 is that of
Merchaison, a Clydesdale stallion, and fig. 3, of Guy, the famous pacer,
record 2:06^4. These should be studied in contrast, as both were un-
wieldy to the rein, both heavy headed, but very difYerent. Figs. 4, 5 and 6
should be studied together as they are all noted horses and have a nation-
al reputation. All good heads, but somewhat different in some respects.
Fig. 4, John R. Gentry, record, pacing 2:005/^ is a splendid business
head and with proper treatment is very reliable in character. Fig. 5,
Robt. J., pacing record 2:oiJ^, shows a cheerful active brain and
naturally playful. Fig. 6, is a model outline, shows great brain power,
determination, courage and fidelity to his human master when well
treated. Fig. 7, Flying Gib. pacing record of 2:04, shows a nervous
organization, and while intelligent, is naturally eratic, and when pressed
too hard, becomes treacherous and very unreliable. Fig. 8 is Fred,
a very intelligent horse belonging to a friend. He has a wonderful mem-
ory, and while he is timid, he is pleasant, affectionate and always cheer-
ful. Fig. 9, McDonald, mare, playful, kind, cheerful, quick and active.
The face line should be nearly straight, and wide between the eyes. Ro-
man nose and "dish-faced" horses are generally objectionable.

EXTENT OF THE HORSE'S CAPACITY FOR LEARNING.

Dr. Key has gone so far with his horse Jim Key as to teach him the
entire alphabet as well as many other things, which is still more con-
vincing that horses only want to knov/ what we desire of them and they

are ready and willing to comply v/ith our wishes.

FIDELITY OF THE HORSE TO HIS MASTER.

There are many instances on record to prove the fidelity, interest
and patience horses have for those who have treated them kindly. There
are also many others to demonstrate that the horse distinctively remem-
bers the many wrongs he has suffered from his master and when the
opportunity ofifers he seeks revenge.

We remember well an old man (when we were mere boys) who would
go to town and imbibe so freely that he was unable to mount his favorite
mare, but when assisted to get on her back, the old mare would take
great pains in trying to keep him in position, by weaving back and forth
to keep under her master as he got out of balance, and if he chanced to
suddenly get so far over to one side that she could not save him and
he fell ofif, she would stay with him until some one came along to get
him on her back again, when she would try again to get him home.
The old man often said his mare was the most faithful friend he had and
she should be well cared for, as long as he lived. Within the last few
months a friend who had what was thought to be a very high lifed and
dangerous horse, insisted on going home, a distance of about six miles
when it was very dark, was found dead the next morning by the road-
side where the buggy had upset and killed him; but this spirited horse

78 HORSE SENSE.

still stood there and had not moved from the place where the accident

had happened.

REMEMBRANCE OF WRONGS STORED UP BY THE HORSE.

David Harum said "Ev'ry hoss c'n do a thing better 'n' spryer if he's
been broke to it as a colt." We perfectly agree with David and wish to
impress this fact on every one who raises horses. The early impres-
sions of the right character made on the colt are of the first importance,
and all of those of a bad character are equally dangerous; for whatever
the colt learns either good or bad will be distinctly remembered. He
never forgets.

CONSIDERATION FOR RIGHT TREATMENT OF OUR
HORSES.

We cannot be too careful to do the right things with the colt and as
carefully avoid everything that is not for the best. Kindness and dainty
morsels fed from the hand, together with the means of control, are the
surest and safest methods.

UNDERLYING PRINCIPLES MUST BE UNDERSTOOD.

We must first understand the underlying principles or natural laws
governing the actions of our animals. If the horse is secure at one end
of the body only he is sure to go in the opposite direction for relief.
Fasten him at the front end of the body and he naturally goes back-
wards to free himself. If fastened at the rear end only, he as naturally
goes forwards to get away from the object of attack. These natural
laws are instinctively and constantly complied with in the actions of our
horses, and whatever we have to do with them, must be in accordance
with these laws, if we desire safe, reliable and enduring animals.

HOW TO CATCH THE YOUNG FOAL AND MAKE NO
MISTAKE.

The first act on our part towards the young foal is to catch it and
hold it without hurting it in any way. And we must not forget the law
by which it will be influenced in its action. Instead of catching it
around the neck and make it run backwards, as it naturally will and as
naturally go forwards if we catch it at the rear end; then does it not as
naturally follow, to make a success of catching the little colt, we should
catch it at both ends at the same time? By putting one hand under its
neck at the chest and the other back of its hams or catch it by the tail,
we can hold the little thing without difficulty — can at the age of an hour
or day old even lift it ofif the ground. In catching it in this way, it will
try to go forwards when we press the hardest at the rear end and back-
wards when we make the greatest pressure at the front end.

HOW THE YOUNG COLT SHOULD BE HANDLED.

As soon as the colt gets quiet, which it will as soon as we have de-
monstrated our superior power without giving it pain, then we should
begin making ourselves acquainted with every part of its body; by

HORSE SENSE. 79

handling its legs, bring our hands in contact with every part of its body
with the utmost gentleness. About the ears, back of the fore legs and at
the flank, it is specially sensative; but if handled carefully for one or two
minutes it becomes accustomed to the touch and does not mind it.

SHOW THE YOUNG FOAL THAT WE ARE AS GOOD A
FRIEND AS ITS MOTHER.

While the colt will recognize our superior power — as among them the
stronger rule, the weaker — we must, before leaving the little fellow, show
it that notwithstanding we have caught it and held it, handled it all over
without giving it pain, yet we are as good friends to it as its dam, and
this we must demonstrate, by taking a little granulated sugar in the palm
of the hand and press it between the colt's lips, by passing the hand
across its mouth and take the hand away, when its tongue will come in
contact with the sugar, which is a little sweeter than the dam's milk.
Repeat this several times until the colt realizes where the sweet comes
from, and the remainder is easy.

Everything that loving kindness and ingenuity can devise should be
done to impress upon the colt's mind thus early in life, that man is his
natural protector and friend, between whom intimate companionship has
been ordained by beneficent nature, which insures that he shall be pro-
tected and cherished while he serves. Ah, me! if all colts could have such
treatment, how few vicious horses we should see, and how much greater
in the aggregate, would be the happiness which life would bring to them
and man. The Arab regards the colt as one of his household, next in
rank and importance to his children. His food and often his bed is
shared with his horses, and the very young things are always treated with
the utmost kindness and afifection; and such things as blows and kicks.
are not known to them.

CHAPTER XVII.

HORSE VOCABULARY.

The vocabulary of words to be used in our relations with the horse,
should be very carefully arranged, so that no two words have a similar
sound and never use more than one short word for any one action. We
should be very choice in the selection of the words which we use in
handling our horses, and we would strongly urge that every horseman
who reads this book, will feel as we do in this matter, and adopt the
vocabulary here devised, in the hope that everybody will eventually adopt
the same, and then our horses will understand the language of every
horseman — it being the same.

CHOICE WORDS FOR OUR HORSES.

As a large majority of those who handle horses have no particular
choice in the words used with their horses, and often use a combination
of words that even the intelligent human being can rarely comprehend,
is it any wonder that our horses have no better understanding of what
is said to them? Then as no two horsemen have any well established
vocabulary for their communications with the horse, is it not time some-
one made up a list of words, for a beginning at uniformity?

There seems to be a general understanding that the word whoa is to
be used when we wish to stop. This is a very good word and we
would not change it, but would emphasize the matter that it should
never be used except when we wish to stop still, and not use it to slacken
the pace or fcr any other action. The word back is also a good word for
the purpose, and should be used only when the backward movement
is desired, and never in connection with any other word, as is too often
heard "whoa-back," as this would certainly be confusing.

We should be as choice in our commands to our horses, as the officers
of an army are to their men; and when everybody consents to the use of
certain definite words for specific actions, then, and not until then, can
we buy and sell or trade horses and have them understand what we say
to them, which is the only rational manner of having the horse under-
stand what we desire him to do.

KIND WORDS BETTER THAN HARSH BITS.

We are all aware that many will say that the bit is the only means of
controling and directing our horses, and "with the whip in one hand and
the lines in the other, we can force him to do our bidding." Yes, this
can be done only to a limited degree, but to have the best service of your
horse, he should understand what is wanted of him and then he will

HORSE SENSE. 81

gladly and willingly comply. But if we rely only on the lines and whip
then we will have horses that are not to be trusted.

ONLY A TEN WORD VOCABULARY.

A uniform vocabulary of only ten words, if universally adopted, would
be of inestimable value to both horses and horsemen, and if carefully
considered in its true light, it seems there should be no trouble to estab- ^
lish 'it. Others may suggest a better formula, but as these have no
similarity in sound and to the human mind have their meaning, as un-
derstood or by common usage; it is as good as any other we can think
of, and find from long experience, that the horse readily learns what is
expressed and does not seem confused in their use.

In starting the horse, we like to be able to gather up the lines and
draw them tight enough to straighten them out, without the horse mak-
ing a movement, and then before giving him the word for the forward
movement, we want to let him know that we are ready and then tell him
to go ahead. Many of the accidents with horses are the result of horses
starting before the driver was ready. A large majority of horse hand-
lers allow the horses to start as soon as the lines are touched — ready or
not— and some drivers encourage the team in starting while the team-
ster is climbing into the wagon. This is all wrong, and should be
severely condemned.

SHORT VOCABULARY TO BE USED WITH OUR HARNESS
HORSES.

ALREADY — is a good word to let the horse know that you are about
to give him a command, and as soon as he knows what is meant he
will fix himself for it, let it be of whatever character desired, and if
not repeated in too rapid succession, he will act with precision and
human-like.

START — is an excellent word for the forward movement from a stand
still, but should not be used except at the beginning, to start.

HURRY — will answer to increase the gait at the walk if repeated at long
intervals, and will do at the trot or pace, by repeating in rapid suc-
cession— hurry, hurry, hurry, etc.

RUN — cannot be beat when the highest rate of speed is desired, and the
horse will comprehend just what is wanted, and by the association of
the whip at the same time that the word RUN is used, he will in-
stinctively break from any other gait into the run and if repeated with
emphasis, he will do his best.

STEADY — is a very good word to use when the gait is to be main-
tained or slightly decreased and must be associated with a very steady
pull on the lines, and the word used in a soothing tone, in degree as
you desire him to maintain or decrease his speed.

SLACKEN — indicates just what is wanted and in association with the
pressure on the bit, will answer the purposes intended and in a very
short time the word alone will answer the purpose.

WHOA — is about the most important word in the vocabulary, and
should never be used except a positive halt is desired, as so much may

82 HORSE SENSE.

depend on the prompt compliance with the command, that we cannot
afford to have the horse misunderstand it, and if he has been well
trained to it, he will instinctively stop at the sound of that word, and
often prevent a variety of accidents.
BACK — this is an important word to teach the horse, as often much
'.kpends on his understanding just how to perform the work of a
backward movement with a load. He should first be taught this-
lesson out of the harness, as is described elsewhere in a very simple
manner, in accordance with the equine law.
HAW — this is the word of our fore-fathers who used but one line in
driving one to eight horses, and by a pull of this line, and using the
word HAW, the horses would turn to the left.
GEE — this is also the word of our fore-fathers and was used in con-
nection with a slight jerk on the one line and meant a turn to the
right.

To the average boy of today these last two words HAW and GEE
mean comparatively nothing, but the horse can be made to soon un-
derstand just what is wanted and as readily turn in the direction desired
as he will at the word WHOA or BACK. So the reader can see that the
horse may be directed by the word in all required movements, without
the use of line or bit in the usual way.

Horses well instructed to the use of the single line system make the
most reliable, intelligent and useful of our horses.

CHAPTER XVIII.

GETTING THE CONFIDENCE OF THE LITTLE COLTS.

Everyone familiar with the importance of having no mistakes made
in the early education of our horses, will, no doubt, be sufficiently at-
tracted by our handling to keep our company a few moments while we
explain, in as plain and simple a manner as possible, what we believe to
be the fundamental principle of procedure, as well as cheap and practical
devices for the purpose.

No one who has studied the character and disposition of our horses
will deny but what we must first get the confidence of our pupil before
we can make much headway in his education. But how to get that con-
fidence and maintain it, is the first question to be solved. We firmly be-
lieve that the best possible time is when the young foal is but one hour
to one day old. And the best method is to feed the young thing gran-
ulated sugar from the hand, by first rubbing it between its lips until it
knows where to find it, as well as where to get the milk from its mother,
which it also has to learn. As soon as the young colt realizes that it
can get as sweet food from the master's hand as from the udder of its
dam it as readily goes to one as the other. As soon as the colt realizes
this fact, it has confidence, and our word for it, that confidence will
never be wanting unless we deceive it in some way.

As soon as the colt will come to you and eat sugar from the palm
of your hand (See cut No. 28.) without apparent fear, you can begin to
handle and restrain it. Be sure you touch every part of its body with
your hands. Handle it as gently and kindly as you would a baby — which
it really is, and sensitive, too.

Keep this up from day to day, until it will really look lor your com-
ing as a period of comfort, enjoyment and relish.

As it grows stronger and more familiar with you, it will be well to
assure it that you are stronger; but, while you may hold it, it is not to be
hurt or punished in consequence, but on the contrary, it is to be caressed,
petted and even given sugar, which goes farther to satisfy it that there is
no harm meant than anything else that mortal man can do for it.

TRAINING TO THE HALTER.

When the colt is about ten days or two weeks old is, probably, the
test time to educate it to the legitimate use of the halter. While you
have really had no trouble up to this time, there is great danger that
right here you and the young equine will have a disagreementTr-a falling
out— a misunderstanding— and possibly a lasting grudge at each other.

84

HORSE SENSE.

But if you will bear with us patiently and follow closely the instructions
we will endeavor to make plain, you will soon realize how easy it is to
educate a little colt to the halter.

Of course, if you have done the first part properly — got the colt's con-
fidence— you will have no trouble in putting a halter on its head. But
because you had no trouble in getting the halter in place, don't think for
a moment that you will have no trouble in leading it, because you will,
ninety-nine times out of a hundred, and this is just what you must avoid.
Please mark well what we have to say about the further procedure.

Cut No. 28.

FEEDING THE YOUNG COLTS.

FASTENING THE COLT AT BOTH ENDS.

After the halter is nicely adjusted to the colt's head, take about ten
or twelve feet of rope, clothes-line size, and tie a ring in one end or form
a loop in the end to make a slip-noose; then place this rope around the
colt's body — right around the loin and flank, running the rope through
the ring or noose on the under side of the body; then pass it between
the forelegs and up under the jaw-strap or nose-band of the halter as
shown in the cut No. 29.

JUST READY FOR THE FIRST HALTER LESSON.

Now, and not until now, are you really ready for business without
danger of a mistake, and if you follow instructions you will be well paid

HORSE SENSE.

85

for the time and trouble of reading this article, if you are not already in
possession of a better method.

Now, take the strap of the halter in one hand, and the small rope in
the other; take a position at a slight angle with the body of the colt, (but
not so much as is shown in the cut) and begin to gently pull on the hal-
ter; you will observe that the colt has an inclination to resist you — go
back on you for the first time — but just as it is about to do so give a
sudden and positive pull on the rope, and both you and it will be sur-
prised at the result — you will both find you are very near to each other,
and j-ou should recognize the close proximity by caressing it, and assur-
ing it that you are still its friend, and that no harm was meant.

Cut No. 29.

If it is excited or confused by this new deal, don't push the matter
farther until it is quiet, and satisfied with the new situation; then again
get into position and repeat as before, and continue until the young thing
will lead about wherever you may want to go. The halter education, as
w^e term it, by this method will require only from five to fifteen minutes,
whereas, by the other method — pulling on the head alone — you have
but little idea where the end of trouble is.

By this improved method, you can readily see that you really have
the colt hitched at both ends, and, by the proper manipulation, in ac-
cordance with the laws of its nature, the little thing is trying to get to
you, instead of away from you — an important point.

86 HORSE SENSE.

HALTER— PULLERS ARE OFTEN MADE WHEN FIRST
HALTERED,

The first few times tying it up, use the rope around its body just
the same, only, after passing the rope through the ring or tie-hole in the
manger and tying it to the manger, carry back to the ring or jaw strap
of the halter and tie there, leaving only about two feet of double rope
from the head to the manger. This hitch prevents the colt pulling back
on the halter (as the halter strap is not tied at all) swinging the head and
throwing itself. Many of our halter-pullers are made by their breaking
loose the first few times being tied up. The same method just given
(except a stronger rope) is the right treatment for the halter puller. See
Chapter XXHL

CHAPTER XIX.

FIRST LESSONS IN HARNESS AS WEANLINGS.

When the colts are weaned and tied up, they must, of necessity, have
exercise, and the best possible method, in our opinion, is to drive them,
instead of turning them loose and taking the chances of their becoming
nervous, wild, and getting hurt.

We have studied this matter a great deal, and tried to get at the fun-
damental principles of a rational equine education. For simplicity,
cheapness and expediency, the method herein illustrated is the best we
have ever seen or devised. See illustration No. 30; hitched for the start.

Cut No. 30.
THE OLD HORSE TEACHING THE WEANLING COLTS.

The association of the young with the old, reliable and experienced
horse, is of vast importance in the beginning. This is genuine "kinder-
garten" school work and is simply wonderful in its influence with the

88 HORSE SENSE.

little equine "urchins!" — they readily learn, by precept and example, how
to conduct themselves in the harness, without restraint by harsh bits in
their young, tender mouths, irritating their lips and lascerating their
tongues and gums.

NO HARSH BITS USED IN THE COLTS MOUTHS— ONLY
VvEAR THEIR HALTERS.
The colts are guided and restrained by their halters only; and mother,
aunt, uncle or friend "stability," well harnessed to the cart, directs the
way through the means of lines in the hands of a considerate driver.
When the Kindergarten teacher starts, they are shown the way as well
as compelled to go along. When the word whoa! calls for a positive
stop, all hands stop at once, as per the force of the old horse and the
method of fastening. Use the select words for all movements and it will
be surprising how much actual education your colts will get in one week.

THE KINDERGARTEN TEACHER HAS FULL CONTROL OF
THE COLTS.
With one hour a day, one, two, three or four can be handled at one
time and require no more effort than the driving of the old reliable horse,
who really controls the colts without pain or excitement — the real basis
of true horsemanship.

HAVE THE HORSE WAIT FOR THE WORD OF COMMAND.
The colts should be taught to stand until all is ready for the start;
when ready, give the word "start" to the old horse, and the colts will
soon "catch on." Start ofif quietly every time. Teach them to walk,
trot or pace, and run. See illustration cut No. 31.

Cut No. 31.
DRIVING ON THE ROAD.

Stopping occasionally to get ofY the cart and go to them for a friendly
recognition with a little sugar, sweet apple, cookie or other relished
morsels.

HORSE SENSE. 89

DRIVE IN BAD PLACES. ACROSS BRIDGES AND CARRY AN
UMBRELLA.

Drive through muddy places, streams, over plowing, deep furrows,
high weeds, small brush and bridges; meet teams and other obstruc-
tions; carry an umbrella which takes the place of the top carriage; to
get them used to having objects seen behind them; but whatever you do,
don't hurt them.

COLTS HELD IN POSITION BY CROSS-BAR, STRAPS AND
JOCKY-STICKS.

You will see, by close examination of cuts, Nos. 30 and 31, that the
colts are held in position by straps running from a crossbar on long
shafts, to their halters — serving as tugs or traces, and guided at the head
by "jocky"sticks from each shaft to their halters to keep them from
crowding the old horse.

All the fastenings are with snaps, at the ring of each ones halter; re-
quiring three snaps at each halter. The shafts can be made of two poles
each about fourteen feet long and fastened to the axle and wheels of a
carriage or wagon. The cross-bar behind the colts, to which they are
fastened with straps or ropes, should be attached to the shafts just in
front of the wheels, which will leave a considerable space between the
colts and this cross-bar when they are all up in position, which will give
them plenty of room for backward and forward movements in their edu-
cation.

EARLY LESSONS MADE EASY, ACCIDENTS AVOIDED AND
IMPRESSION LASTING.

A few drives in this manner will do more for the colts towards a
useful life in all future work, than several months after they are fully
grown. The old horse is strong enough to hold them in place and carry
them along or restrain them under any and all circumstances, which is
the very foundation of their future usefullness. To make Valuable
horses they must sooner or later learn these lessons, and the earlier in life
it is done the better, and especially when there is so little danger of mak-
ing mistakes, which are often made by their superior strength, when
fully grown.

ARRANGEMENTS OF THE ATTACHMENTS FOR THE COLTS.

The jockey sticks are made of two good fork handles or other mate-
rial of sufficient strength, and fastened to the ends of the shafts, so they
will have suiificient motion for movements up and down backwards and
forwards. It will be observed that a cross strap is used between the
colts with a ring in the middle, to receive the snap of the strap or rope
going between the colts back to the crossbar, which will pull equally on
both. There is also an additional strap from the inside colts to the
shaft, so that if the jockey stick should become detached from the shaft,
that the colts cannot pull away to one side. Everything should be made
secure and then there is no danger of any accidents or trouble.

90 HORSE SENSE.

ANYONE WHO CAN DRIVE AN OLD HORSE CAN DRIVE
FOUR COLTS.

By this method (which we believe is original with us) anyone who
can drive the old steady horse can drive four colts. All there is in the
work, is to keep the old horse going until you wish to stop, and by the
-use of the word whoa! a full stop must be made and the little colts in a
few stops understand what is meant by whoa! as well as the old horse.
They should never be started in any other way than by the word and if
the old horse is well trained, the little colts will soon learn the starting
word too.

KINDERGARTEN WORK NEVER APPRECIATED UNTIL
PRACTICED.

Probably no one will ever appreciate the full value of the kindergarten
education of the little colts until it is practiced. We must remember
that notwithstanding the horse is mute, he is wonderfully intelligent and
what is of more importance to know, is that he never forgets what he
has learned, whether it is good or bad. This should impress upon our
minds the importance of having our horses learn only the good lessons.

CHAPTER XX.

HOME MADE, BUT VALUABLE CART.

This home made but very valuable cart (see cut No. 32), is made with
the hind wheels and axle of a carriage or buggy, and two long poles
(young growth hickory, iron-wood or any other tough, springy wood),
clipped to the axle, provided with a crossbar and whippletree and a
board seat at the rear end, with wedge shaped pieces under the back part
to tip the seat forward for easy riding. These shafts should be fourteen
feet long, with provision at the ends for the attachment of a strap across
from point to point, to prevent the horse in rearing from throwing his
front leg over the shaft, as when so provided with this strap the horse's
legs striking the strap and he goes no higher.

A VALUABLE VEHICLE FOR DRIVING COLTS OR UNRULY
HORSES.

This cart makes a very valuable vehicle for driving colts or unruly
horses, as they are hitched so far ahead of the wheels that they do but
little damage in kicking. If the horse throws himself, no particular in-
jury is done, as the shafts are so springy that there is but little danger
of breaking and if the horse is inclined to turn around suddenly, he is
obliged to make so large a circle that he gets discouraged before he ac-
complishes his object.

A GRAND VEHICLE FOR HANDLING THE RUNAWAY OR
KICKER.

If the horse starts to run away, we have only to let him have his head
for an instant and the muscles of his neck will be so relaxed that we can
instantly pull (by one rein) his nose to the line ring of the saddle, and
he must stop or fall broad-side.

AN EXCELLENT MEANS FOR EDUCATING THE HORSE TO
TURN AROUND.

If the colt does not answer to the bit in turning around, we should
pull gently on the one rein, for the direction desired and raise up on
our feet and carry the cart around which will point the colt in the desired
direction we wish to go; the long shafts answering as levers to turn him
around, showing him that we can turn him with but little efifort and he
soon learns what is meant by pulling the bit in his mouth.

92

HORSE SENSE.

ATTACHMENTS TO THIS VEHICLE FOR DRIVING WEAN-
LING COLTS.

By placing the draft bar across the shafts of cart just in front of the
wheels and clipping there, and then fastening the "T" end of the jockey
sticks to the points of the shafts, we have the most admirable device for
driving the little colts, as shown in cuts 30 and 31. This makes a com-
bination that cannot well be dispensed with on any farm where colts are
raised, as it costs but a trifle and it not only answers a variety of pur-
poses, but enables us to manage the horse with so little trouble, and pre-
vents many mistakes.

DRAFT BA-R 9 Fr. Long

I SNAP -I '' SNAP — ^— =r=^=
JOCKEr^ STICK' ^- —ZL

Cut No. 32.
COMBINATION CART.

CHAPTER XXI.

PRINCIPLES, MEANS AND METHODS OF CONTROLLING
HORSES THROUGH THE MOUTH.

The main principle of handling the horse through the medium of the
mouth is to have the punishment happen at a distance from you and if
he does not come to you for relief, you should go to him and relieve him
of any undue pressure that has been brought to bear on his mouth; as-
suring him that when near you he can get relief, which he will learn in
one or two minutes and be willing to follow you wherever you may go.
It is always better to make your impression on his mouth when he is at
an angle, instead of in front of him. This will induce him to turn on his
hind feet and advance towards you, when you should relieve him every
time, if he is in the least trouble.

QUARTER INCH MANILA ROPE FOR THE SAFETY BRIDLE.

To do this work most effectually, a small manila rope is the best, put
on in the form illustrated by the cuts for the safety bridle, Nos. ^;i and
34 here presented. First take the rope in your left hand about sixteen
or eighteen inches from one end and lay it over the horse's neck, hold-
ing on with the left hand; then reach under the neck with the right
hand and grasp the rope near the end.

LEARN TO TIE THE VALUABLE BOW-BOW-LINE KNOT

Form a loop with the fingers of the left hand so that the portion go-
ing over the neck shall be on top at the cross (not under), then pass the
end of the rope up through this loop (not down through), and draw
down so as to encircle the neck closely with the rope; now pass this
end all the way around the main rope and put it down (not up), through
this loop doubled, and grasp this doubled portion with the thumb and
finger of the left hand and pull on the main rope, which will tie a very
secure knot that will not slip and one that is very eisaly untied by pull-
ing on the end, the same as you would untie your shoe when tied in a
bow knot. This is a very convenient and secure knot for the purpose,
and may be called the bow-bow-line knot. See illustrations Nos. 33 and
34-

STUDY THE BOW-BOW-LINE KNOT CAREFULLY.

The next step is to put the left hand between the neck and rope from
the front and pull through a portion of the rope doubled, taking hold of
the portion attached to the neck with the right hand, bringing it on the

94

HORSE SENSE.

oflf or right side of the horse's mouth; then by putting the thumb of the
left hand in the horse's mouth and making gentle pressure with the soft
portion of the thumb against the palate or roof of the mouth, the horse
will open his mouth readily, when you can pass the rope through the
mouth with the right hand and grasp it with the left on the near or left
side of the mouth, when the slack in the rope can be taken up by pulling
on the main rope with the right hand, and the first form is properly ad-
justed.

Cut No. 33

PUTTING FIRST FORM ON THE HORSE BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE HALTER.

One of the valuable features of the safety bridle is that the first form
can be put on the horse before the halter is taken off the horse's head,
thereby avoiding any danger of the horse dodging or getting away while
the bridle is being put on. This feature alone is worthy of due consider-
ation in handling tricky horses. When this first form is put on, the hal-
ter then can be taken off, and the horse is secure and we are ready to
put the subsequent form in position. See cut No. 34.

Cut No. 34.
FIRST FORM ON UNDER THE HALTER.

POSITIONS TO BE TAKEN WHEN ADJUSTING THE SAFETY
BRIDLE.

Now stand with your face towards the horse's tail and take hold of
the rope with the right hand about one foot from the neck; then reach

HOKSK SENSE.

95

over the rope (not under) wiili tin- left hand (back up), palm down, and
grasp the rope and lay up over the horse's head, back of the ears, in
half hitch form, carrying the rope held in the right hand about to the
base of the cars; pull down with the left hand to take up all slack in the
rope; then change hands and hold this portion in the right hand under
the horse's neck and again open the mouth as before with the left hand,
pull the rope through with the right and grasp as before, with the left
hand at the mouth on the left side and take up all slack in the rope, with
the right hand, by pulling on the main rope, and we have the best stal-
lion bridle (or for other use) in handling horses that we have ever seen
or used. See cut No. 35. It operates by pulling the cheeks of the horse
between his teeth and will prevent him from biting.

Pic;. 2. FlG. 3.

Cut No. 35.
SAFETY BRIDLE.

DON'T DRAG OR SAW THE ROPE THROUGH THE HORSE'S
MOUTH.
We have taken a great deal of pains to describe all the movements in
putting this form of bridle on the horse, so that there will be no sawing^
of the rope through the horse's mouth, and make a perfect adjustment
when completed.

WHEN THE HORSE IS IN TROUBLE KINDLY GIVE HIM
RELIEF.
It must be strictly borne in mind, that the horse is not to be abused
with this bridle by harsh usage, but whenever the horse is disposed to get
away or be unruly, a pull on the rope when the horse is away from you,
and then relieve him when he comes to you — every time — and he will
very soon look upon you as his friend and reliever of trouble. But if
you punish him without relief, he will have no respect for you, and you
will fail in its intended use. The principle of kindness, associated with
powerful means and the method of use, will perform wonders in the
management of the horse.

96 HORSE SENSE.

USE THE SENSATIVE HORSE VERY GENTLY AND THE
DULL-HEAD SHARPLY.

The sensative horse must be used very carefully, and the willful dull-
headed, can be handled more positively; but on the same principle of re-
lief when near you, and in difficulty when away from you. Keep the
principles in mind and success will follow.

"YANKEE BRIDLE" OR ANOTHER MEANS OF CONTROL-
LING THE HORSE THROUGH THE MOUTH.

This character of rope bridle is preferable to the other in some in-
stances but for the beginner and for leading the horse it is excellent.

"YANKEE" BRIDLE CAPABLE OF MANY USES.

This "Yankee" bridle can be used in many forms and for different
purposes, is what makes it valuable in very many cases. It is made of
about qaurter-inch (like the former) nianila rope, fifteen or twenty feet
long, with a knot tied in each end to prevent fraying out. Tie a fixed
loop in one end, just large enough to be put in the horse's mouth over
the under jaw snugly, and when made, turn the knot through the loop,
drawing the main portion of the rope through sufficiently to put over the
horse's head, with the knot of the loop on the ofif or right side of the
horse (see cut No. 36); then proceed to place the loop portion into the
horse's mouth with the lose portion of the main rope on the near or left
side of the mouth. See fig. i, cut No. zi- This alone will make a good
leading bridle for any horse.

USED IN DOUBLE OR SINGLE FORM IN THE MOUTH OR
UNDER UPPER LIP.

If you need a very powerful bridle for an unruly horse, you may
stand with your back towards the horse's tail, holding rhe main portion
of the rope about one foot from the mouth in the left hand, reach over
with the right hand and grasp the rope below about one foot and turn
with your face towards the horse's tail and lay the rope on top of the
head and take up the slack in the rope; then take hold of the rope just at
the right side of the mouth, raise up the upper lip with the left hand
(see fig. 2, cut No. 2l7^ : and pass the rope across above the upper teeth
and hold in position with the thumb of the left hand, and with the right
hand take up all the slack of the main rope (see fig. 3, cut No. yj^ ; and
you have a bridle that should be used with the utmost caution with the
sensative horse; but the sulky dull-head will readily respond to its in-
fluence. It should always be used with gentleness when the horse will
respect it. The illustrations (cut No. zi^, show in their order how it will
appear when adjusted on the head of the horse. This also makes a good
stallion bridle for service work.

ONE FORM EXCELLENT TO TEACH THE HORSE TO HOLD
HIS HEAD LOW DOWN.
If you have a horse that is difficult to bridle, put this on in its first
form, and instead of leaving the head loop just back of the ears, you will

HORSE SENSE.

97

pull it back on the neclc near where the collar rests; you now have the
means of inducing the horse lu hold his head very low, while you put on
the bridle. When you put your hand up towards his ears and he throws
his head up you should pull on the rope, which will hurt his mouth up
there, and by holding steadily on the rope, he will very soon drop his

^aoTAy.

Cut No. Z7-
YANKEE BRIDLE.

head a little for relief, and if he will let you handle his ears, you should
loosten the tension on the rope, and if he resists you and throws his
head up again be sure to pull on the rope again, and hold steadily until
he drops his head a little, when you can try to get him to let you press
his head downwards and if he lets you depress it, you must be sure to let
the rope loose or in other words show him, that when he holds his head
high, it hurts his mouth, and v/hen he holds it low, he gets relief. It re-

98 HORSE SENSE.

quires less time to accomplish the object than it does to tell how it is to
be done. The three forms show about how it operates. Cut. No. 38.

TEACHING THE HORSE TO HOLD THE HEAD LOW TO BE
BRIDLED.

Cut No. 38.

USED FOR CONTROLLING THE HORSE WHILE TREATING
A SORE NECK.

This form is also excellent in treating a collar sore, on the top of
the horse's neck, by drawing his head low and tying in a half hitch, as
shown in the middle picture (training school cut, No. 38), and the horse
has so little use of his head that you will have but little trouble in
handling the sore neck, which is otherwise really dangerous, with a very
sensitive horse.

CAN BE USED TO ADVANTAGE FOR THE HARD BITTED
HORSE.

This form of the "Yankee" bridle to have the horse hold his head low,
is also very useful in curing the "lugger," "puller," or "hard bitted" horse
by putting it on over the bridle, before attaching the lines to the bit,
and have it long enough to extend back to the vehicle, driving with only
a gentle pressure on the driving bit, and as soon as the horse begins to
bear hard on the bit, just pull on the rope, which will draw his nose in-
wards, and for relief he will have to hold it in still farther; but just as
soon as he slackens in his speed, or lets go of the bit, don't fail to
loosen the tension on the rope. We have often cured the "'lugger' in this
way in a very few drives. But if the driver will encourage the horse

HORSE SENSE. 99

in bearing hard on tlio bit ho will soon become a "lugger," as his
moulh becomes numb and then he bears the harder.

ALWAYS GIVE THE HORSE RELIEF AS SOON AS HE
YIELDS TO PRESSURE.

If you drive with a light hand and do not encourage the horse to
bear on the bit, but bring to bear the pressure of the "Yankee" bridle,
the horse will soon be willing to go as you wish. Please remem-
ber, that if the horse will go with an easy rein, you should be willing
to let him, and if he is bound to rush into the bit, that you will use the
rope instead of the bit, and he will soon make up his mind that when-
ever he determines to bear on the bit, that the rope is there to get in
its work; otherwise he is not to be hurt. The principle always should
be to give the horse no pain or inconvenience when he complies with
your wishes, and when he does not, that there is a method and a de-
vice that will get him into trouble, but it will all be made easy just as
soon as he realizes its effect and will comply.

Cut Nil. yj.

TRAINING SCHOOL, OK THE DIFFERENT FORMS OF ROPE

TO THE HEAD,

Cut No. 39 embraces all the different forms completed, shown in cuts
Nos. 33 lo 38 inclusive; all of which should be studied well by those who
want to become proficient in handling the horse through the medium

100

HORSE SENSE.

of the mouth, which, for cheapness, convenience, rapidity and practica-
bility (when the natural law is complied with) excels any other method
for all kinds of horses, that the au'.lior has had any experience with.
Since a boy of ten years of age, twenty feet of manila rope — quarter-
inch size — placed on the horse's head in a great variety of forms, has
been the most satisfactory in management and education of all kinds and
dispositions of anything yet invented for handling horses through the
medium of the mouth. It can be used very gently with the sensiti\ e
animal, but, if at any time the horse becomes unruly, excited or badly
frightened, by this means he can be easily controlled; and, if in the
excitement he gets pinched by the mouth rope, he must be relieved
at the very first opportunity, which gives the horse confidence that he
has a friend in his instructor, as well as a master of the situation. This
cut. No. 39, is a half-tone photograph taken from the large canvas
picture (painted by himself) that the author has used, as an illustra-
tion in farmers' institute work for a great many years.

TEACHING THE HORSE TO GO IN A CIRCLE.

The reason ior using this means in preference to a common bridle,
is, first, it fits so neatly to the lips and mouth that the colt readily
yields to its pressure, and second, it does not chafe and bruise the mouth
as does an ordinary bit, and third, it is so much cheaper and more
easily adjusted, that it is far preferable to any bridle for handling either
colts or aged horses.

After leading the horse from the stable, take a bow or buggy whip,
and by gently tapping him on the hind parts, he will be induced to go
around in a small circle (at first) as shown in cut No. 40.

HORSE SENSE. 101

MAKING ACQUAINTANCE WITH BOTH ENDS OF THE
HORSE AT A DISTANCE.

This exercise is equivalent to driving him single, and he can soon be
taught to start and stop at the word.

He should first be taught to go in only one direction until he luUy
understands what is wanted of him; then he may be turned in the
opposite direction, but care must be taken that he does not become
confused, or his instructor excited, as frequently mistakes and mis-
understandings occur right here. Don't undertake too much in one
day. Remember that one thing well learned is worth any number of
things half learned.

HANDLING THE LEGS OF THE MATURE HORSE WITH

EASE.

Take a long strap, like a tie-strap, with a ring or loop in one end,
put it around the hind leg about the hock or above, run the end through
the ring or loop and let it slip down between the fetlock and hoof,
then with one hand holding the cord at the head, commence pulling
gently on the strap at the foot. If the horse will yield to it, let it
down again very soon, as seen in cut No. 41, and so on until the horse
will allow any one of his legs to be handled without resistance.

Cut No. 41.

THE OLD FARMER SHOWING THE COLT HOW HE

SHOULD YIELD UP HIS FEET.

If he does resist the pressure of the strap on his leg, you should at
that very instant, make a greater impression at his mouth with the
rope, and he will soon realize that the one governs the actions of the
other, and will permit the legs to be handled, if done gently, as that
hurts less than at the mouth when he resists. This is a far better
method than to try to take up the feet in the ordinay way the first tim.e.
In this way the horse has more freedom in the vtse of his legs and
he must first learn that he is not to be struggled with, and then he
readib yields his feet to your wish.

CHAPTER XXII.

COMBINATIONS OF THREE TO BE REMEMBERED.

The following paragraphs are made up in threes to be easily remem-
bered and to be adhered to or rejected as desired.

THREE IMPORTANT LESSONS TO TEACH THE HORSE.

Three of the most valuable lessons to be taught the horse are: To
start at the word of command, stop at the word of command, and to
back at the work of command, all good and valuable.

THREE ANNOYING TORTURES TO THE HORSE.

Three of the most annoying and painful tortures to the horse are:
The abuses of the whip, the suffering from harsh bits, and the painful
pressure of badly fitted collars, neither of which should ever be per-
mitted.

THREE IMPORTANT CONDITIONS OF THE FEET.

Three essential conditions of the feet are: Strong walls, elastic
frog, and unmolested bars and sole, which can be had with care.

THREE GREAT ENEMIES OF THE FEET.

Three great enemies to good feet are: Long toe and heel calks,
large nails driven high up in the foot, and the wall rasped off to fit
the shoe, neither of which should be permitted.

THREE POINTS IN THE CARE OF THE HORSE.

Three valuable points in the care of the horses are: Water before
feeding, and moderate quantities of grain and hay, given often and
with regularity. Fifty years' experience proves this true.

THREE IMPORTANT FACTORS IN KEEPING THE HORSE
IN CONDITION.
The horse, to work hard and keep in good condition, must be
feiai'ted ofif in his work moderately, worked steadily, and never annoyed
or fretted. Try this thoroughly and you will be convinced.

THREE CONDITIONS THAT WEAR THE HORSE OUT
RAPIDLY.

To wear the horse out rapidly, and never have him in condition, is
to feed irregularly (as to quantity or time), water whenever convenient,
rush him into his work, and keep him on his nerve all the time. Don't
try these.

HORSE SENSE. 103

THREE POINTS IN GETTING THE GOOD WILL OF THE
HORSE.

Three things to do to gain the good will and respect of the horse
are: To feed frequently small quantities of sugar from the hand, treat
him kindlj' in his stall or at work, and always give him a good bed.
If you don't do this, you may rue it.

THREE THINGS THAT WILL CAUSE THE HORSE TO FEAR

US.

Three things to do if you want the horse to fear and disrespect you
are: Slam the stable door every time you enter, speak in a loud,
harsh voice, and give him a thrashing in the stall. It won't pay to try
these.

THREE THINGS TO SECURE SAFETY WITH THE HORSE.

If you would have a safe horse, harness carefully, hitch securely,
and drive with good judgment. Don't forget to do these things.

THREE CONDITIONS FOR UNRELIABLE HORSES.

If you prefer insecure, unreliable horses, harness carelessly, hitch
indififerently, and allow them to start and stop when they please. It
don't pay to be careless.

THREE THINGS NECESSARY TO RE ABLE TO CATCH THE
HORSE ANYWHERE.

Jf you would have the horse easy to catch in the yard or pasture,
when you reach him give him a little sugar, caress him, and put the
bridle bit into his mouth with the utmost gentleness. If you do these
he will come to you.

THREE ESSENTIALS IN GROOMING THE HORSE.

To groom the horse perfectly is to clean his coat thoroughly,
brush his mane and tail with greatest care, and remove all accumulations
from the bottoms of his feet. Don't forget the feet.

THREE CONDITIONS IN INDIFFERENT GROOMING.

To groom the horse indifferently is to scratch him a little in one
place and then in another, neglect the mane and tail, or pull the hair out
with the curry-comb, and never even look at the bottoms of his feet.
If you have any respect for your horse, don't do it this way.

THREE CONDITIONS TO INSURE THE HORSE STANDING
STILL WHEN HITCHING.

If you would have the horse stand quietly while being hitched
single, buckle and take the lines in your hand, pull the shafts in place
gently, and hitch tugs, hold-back straps and girth before attempting to
start. This insures safety to begin with.

104 HORSE SENSE.

THREE THINGS THAT WILL MAKE THE HORSE RESTLESS
WHILE BEING HITCHED.

To make the horse afraid of the vehicle and restless while being
hitched, is to leave him standing alone, go after the vehicle, and sur-
prise him by dropping the shafts on his back, or punch him with them
in the thighs or ribs. This kind of work never pays.

THREE THINGS NECESSARY TO HAVE THE HORSE STAND
AFTER HITCHING.

To have the horse stand htill after hitching, is to handle the lines
very carefully, get into the vehicle quietly, and, when you are ready,
give him the command to go in a gentle manner. Please remember
these.

THREE THINGS THAT WILL MAKE THE HORSE NERVOUS
AFTER HITCHING.

To have the horse impatient after hitching, is to handle the lines
carelessly, get into the vehicle in a hurry, and hit him a slap with the
lines as you get in. Please don't do any of these things.

THREE ESSENTIALS IN KEEPING THE HORSE SOUND
AFTER A HEATED DRIVE.

To keep the horse sound and limber after a heated drive, give him
a few swallows of water often, keep him in motion while slowly cooling,
and then take good care of him in the stable. A faithful friend deserves
attention.

THREE THINGS IN REGARD TO THE HORSE'S SHOULDERS
AT WORK.

Have perfect-fitting, clean collars, wash the shoulders at noon and
night when at very hard work, and never use sweat-pads to fill up any
deficiences of the collar. All explained in Chapter XXVII.

THREE THINGS TO REMEMBER IN REGARD TO THIS
BOOK.

This book is prepared for those who are studying or want to study
the horse from the standpoint of his nature; means and methods to
demonstrate to the horse that man through these means and methods
is stronger than he and can control him, and in consequence of man's
superior manifestation of power, the horse is not to be injured, but, on
the other hand, he is to be educated and treated in a most humane
manner, for obedience and compliance to man's wishes. Reader, examine
ir carefully before condemning. It is written in the interest of the horse
as well as his owner, and the hope of the author is, that both will share
alike in its precepts. Man's inhumanity to the horse makes countless
thousands suffer.

CHAPTER XXIII.

USE AND ABUSE OF THE OVERHEAD CHECK-REIN.

Very much has been written about the abuse of the over-head
check-rein, but this subject, hke ahnost all others, has its friends and
enemies; but the matter will be treated from both sides of the question
believing that it has a valuable use as well as its abuse.

THE "KIMBLE JACKSON" CHECK-REIN.

The over-head or over-draw check-rein was devised and first used by
the old-time driver, Hiram Woodruff, on the trotting horse Kimball
Jackson, and was called for a long time the "Kimball Jackson" check-
rein. It was used to prevent him from getting his head down when he
made a break, which by the side-check rein, he could not be brought
back to the trotting gait again. This "Kimball Jackson" check answered
so good a purpose with a great many trotting and pacing horses, that
its use has become almost universal. But the trainer knows that it
is very hard on the horse to keep his head drawn up high for any great
length of time, and so he does not check him up high until he is
ready to speed him, and then as soon as he has gone the short distance
of one or two miles, he does not fail to uncheck his charge and give
relief to the horse.

ITS USE WITH THE RACE-HORSE DRIVERS.

This check was intended to be used on the track, where the surface
is about as smooth as a floor, and only for a short time, without giving
relief, by letting the horse have a chance to rest his tired neck.

ITS ABUSE WITH THE ROAD RIDERS AND DRIVERS.

The use of this check became so popular with the trotting horse-
men that everybody thought it must be just the check to be used on
every horse, and for any length of time, and today it has become almost
universal with all classes; but the poor horse is a great sufiferer on ac-
count of it being drawn tight, and left for so long a time, in conse-
quence of which we see the horse turning his head from side to side for
relief whenever stopping, and if we go to him and uncheck him he will
immediately put his head down near the ground for relief, just as we
would put our head forward and rub the back of our neck if we had
been looking up at the stars for two or three minutes.

THE HORSE'S COMPLAINT OF HIS MASTER LEAVING HIM
CHECKED TIGHT.

THE STORY TOLD BY THE HORSE.

, Oh, cruel, unthinking, unfeeling, forgetful and neglectful master. If
you could have realized the cramped feeling and pain you have caused

106

HORSE SENSE.

me, by that cruel over-head check, while you left my head checked so
high while you were gone for three hours, I am sure you would have
either lengthened my check-rein or unchecked me entirely. I have been
turning my head from side to side, to shorten the distance from my
back to my numb mouth, from the pressure of the bit and check, with
little or no relief; and had you not come to my relief, I am afraid I
should have gone crazy and broke things all to pieces. I was becoming
desperate, and am thankful that you have decided to put me into the
barn, and not keep my head strained up here any longer. I think
if you could be made to understand that the continual straining of my
neck by that check into an unnatural position, and keeping it there for
hours at a time, is shortening my days of usefulness (stock in trade) to
you. If you would watch my actions carefully in going down hill,
you could see that with my head pulled up so high it is very hard on
my back, straining on my fore legs, jarring to my feet, and if the road
is uneven it is one continual jerk on my tender mouth and kinks in
my neck, or if there is much of a depression, in which I happen to step
(as I cannot see where I am putting my feet) then it is a terrible wrench
on my back, similar to you stepping of? a descent in the dark when you
least expect it.

Cut No. 42.

Cut No. 48

GRACE AND BEAUTY SPOILED
Cut No. 15.

AS NATURE MADE US.
Cut No. 44.

APPLlEIi AS PUNISHMENT TO

.'KIMINALS. A LESSON IN CONTRAST.

THE HORSE CALLS ON HIS MASTER TO OBSERVE CLOSE«
LY THE ILLUSTRATIONS.

Oh, master, look at these illustrations and then ask yourself how
you would like to be so situated that you had to submit to being put
into these unnatural positions, and kept there for hours without relief,
and then vou can have some little idea how your willing and faithful
horse is sufferintr daily from your lack of sympathy and attention.

HORSE SENSE. 107

Kindly remember this lesson, and hereafter when you leave me lengthen
out my check-rein or let nie have the use of my head, and we will think
more of each other. I will be a better horse for you and we will both
enjoy each other more, and appreciate the comforts of life to a greater
degree.

TO THE OWNERS OF FINE HORSES.

If the city men who own good horses, as well as others, will take
a walk through their streets, or even in samller towns, and observe
the horses hitched along the w-alks with their heads checked high by
this cruel over-head check, and watch them turning their heads from
side to side for relief, they will have some idea what a punishment it is.
and how much unnecessary punishment the horse is enduring for the
want of a little consideration for his comfort.

DEMAND FOR RELIEF IF OWNERS KNEW THE HORSE'S
SUFFERINGS.

If the owners of fine turnouts knew that their coachmen sitting
on the seat of the carriage, whip in hand, ready to punish the horses
every time they sought relief from that over-head check by turning their
heads while standing in front of the residence where the ladies are
making a fashionable call, there is but little doubt but positive instruc-
tions would be issued that the driver should get down and imcheck
the horses and entertain them while the guests were enjoying them-
selves in the house, even if the call is not longer than ten or fifteen
minutes.

LADIES COULD NOT ENJOY CALLS IF THEY KNEW HOW
MUCH THE HORSES SUFFER.

If the ladies only realized v.hat suffering their fine horses are endur-
ing for their pleasure, a new order of arrangement would be enforced at
once, and the horses would find that the driver would have to relieve
their heads every time they stopped, or they could not enjoy their
ride or visit. Ladies generally are far more sympathetic than men,
and they can do much for the relief of the horse from the cruel over-
head check-rein as well as in other respects.

SERMON TO HORSE OWNERS.

On a certain Sabbath a friend of the author was passing by a cer-
tain church, before which were hitched many teams, the property of
affluent Christians. The owners and their families were inside, listen-
ing, no doubt, to the old, old story of loving kindness, man's brother-
hood, consideration for the weak and lowly, protection to the helpless,
etc.

WHILE THE HORSE SUFFERED THEIR OWNERS WOR-
SHIPPED.

Those Christian horse-owners were probably unctiously seconding
a prayer for the coming of that kingdom in which suffering would be
tmkriown, and the milk of human kindness Vvould ceaselessly flow;

108 HORSE SENSE.

they were probably contributing liberally to the work of lifting out of
the darkness of barbarism and up into the shining light of modern
civilization the benighted heathen of far ofif lands. But all this time not
a few of the horses were enduring a torture more refined and exquisite
than any that barbarous heathens could invent. The heads of the poor
brutes were held in cruelly unnatural positions, and their necks were
heartlessly strained and tortured by that infamous device of fashion
— the over-head check. If the Father is mindful of the sparrow that
falls, should not His worshippers be mindful of the suffering of that
noblest asd best of the brute creation, the horse?

SATISFACTION OF THE HORSES AND THEIR FRIEND IN
TIME OF NEED.

The friend unchecked the tortured horses, and for a moment en-
joyed the keenest satisfaction in seeing the poor animals straighten,
stretch and twist their necks to get cords and muscles into their nor-
mal positions once more. He fancied, too, that he saw thanks and
gratitude in the eyes of the relieved semi-human beasts. He passed
on, happier for what he had just done.

SABBATH DAY'S RECORD WITH THE RECORDING ANGEL.

In auditing the final accounts of the inside worshippers and the
outside philanthropist, that Sabbath day's record will appear on the
books of the recording angel; but which, think you, will carry with it
the larger credit, those of the disciples of empty form and ceremony
inside, or that of he who was doing the Master's work outside? "In-
as much as ye have done it unto the least of these ye have done it
unto me."

Note — Let this be a lesson to be remembered by all church-going
people, and those who heed it can enjoy the service better by knowing
that their horses are comfortable instead of suffering.

CHAPTER XXIV.

IMPORTANCE OF A GOOD MOUTH FOR THE HORSE.

We all agree that there is no point in connection with a horse that
contributes so much to the pleasure, comfort and safely of either
riijing or driving him as what might be called a responsive mouth, or
cue which obeys promptly the slightest intimation from, rider or driver
of restraint or guidance. A good mouth is, to a large extent, natural
to a horse, so that some horses, if properly handled, can have their
mouth made almost perfect. Such horses (of a team, as a rule) must
have their heads so related to one another that they can bend their
•heads upon their necks with ease.

TENDER MOUTHS THE RESULT OF BAD HANDLING.

If horses so formed have bad mouths, it is usually the result of
irrational handling, unless they happen to be unduly nervous or unin-
telligent animals.

Jointed or snaffle bits seldom injure the branches of the lower
jaw, but sometimes press the cheeks against the anterior molars, and
abrade the inner surface of the cheeks, especially if these molars are
rough. Of the numerous ill results of soreness and discomfort in
connection with the mouth, we may mention the following faults and
troubles noticeable when riding or driving, viz.:

TONGUE LOLLING, CROSSING THE JAWS, ETC. IS OFTEN
FROM BAD xMOUTHS.

Crossing the jaws, keeping the mouth more or less open, lolling the
tongue, slobbering, tossing the head to one side or the other, pulling
out in double harness or crowding in, going cornerwise, sidelining, not
going into the bit, carrying the head unsteadily, pulling, bearing down,
balking, rearing, plunging or rushing when starting off (especially out
of the stable), restlessness while standing, breaking their gait (or
going unsteadily in harness when going within the horse's speed),
mixing, hitching or hopping (either in front or behind), interfering;
and, last but not least in importance, bridle lameness. If one con-
siders for a moment, he can realize the extreme sensitiveness of these
sores, and the excruciating pain a horse must suffer when facing the
bit in the morning; so that it is not astonishing that some horses hang
back when first taken out, and especially if they are predisposed to be-
com.e balkers. The high-couraged horse, though he may hesitate at
first, will, as soon as the part becomes numbed, begin to pull, and

110 HORSE SENSE.

show evidence of the discomfort he is sufifering in the many ways al-
ready described— such as crossing the jaws, going with the mouth open,
head to one side, etc.

IRREGULAR GAITED HORSES OFTEN CAUSED BY BAD
MOUTHS.

In addition to the discomfort and difficulty of driving a horse with,
a bad mouth, as well as the danger, especially in crowded streets, and
the unsightliness of his carriage, as in turning the head in and out,
etc., a bad mouth is apt to produce irregularity in the gait and impaired
control of the legs.

HITCHING AND HOBBLING OFTEN FORM BAD MOUTHS.
What is called "hitching" or "hopping" (generaly of a hind leg),
although also due to weakness, too heavy a load, driving beyond speed,
heavy shoes, etc., is not infrequently due to tenderness or soreness o!
the mouth, or to placing the bit too high in the mouth. There is no
such thing as a congenital "hitcher." This habit is always the result of
bad management.

HIGH COURAGED HORSES SHOULD HAVE THE MOUTHS
TREATED CAREFULLY.

In high-c5uraged horses, whose mouths have become permanently
injured from the bit, it is a difficult matter to overcome the habit;
but if the mouth is allowed to heal thoroughly, the bit placed as low in
it as the animal will stand and face it with a moderate degree of firm-
ness, and not put his tongue over the bit, the fault can often be remedied.

OFTEN THE UNSTEADY GAIT IS FROM A BAD MOUTH.

Mixing the gait is usually attributed to want of balance, resulting from
an improper distribution of weight in shoeing, and no doubt this is the
case in some instances; but the cause should be more frequently at-
tributed to the mouth. You will generally find that a horse inclined to
mix in gait has an unsteady mouth. He does not take the bit with the
necessary firmness, and keeps retracting his tongue, or putting his tongue
over the bit, so that the pressure from the bit comes on the branches
of the lower jaw, which always gives rise to irritability and a want of
confidence in the animal's manner of going.

HORSE'S GAIT CONTROLLED WITH COMFORT TO THE
TONGUE.

The tendency to mix the gait can usually be overcome by patient and
persevering effort to get the tongue accustomed to pressure. The bit
should be placed well up in the mouth, and be as comfortable a one as
possible. Carelessness in the position in which the bit is placed in the
horse's mouth often results in injury to that very sensitive part of his
organization.

HORSE SENSE. Ill

BRIDLE BITS FOR DIFFERENT HORSES.

A multitude of diffcretit bits have been devised for the control of
the various and peculiar habits of our horses, most of which have been
designed to punish and irritate the sensitive and responsive medium of
communication between the driver and the faithful horse.

Cut No. 46.
STRAIGHT BAR-BIT.

Probably the straight bar-bit will come nearer being acceptable to the
majority of horses than any other style of bit. One special feature of
the straight bar-bit is to get one just the right length for the horse's
mouth. A great many of these bits in use are too long, and occasion-
ally we find one that is too short. The bit should be smooth and swelled
at the ends, as shown in Cut No. 46 — and they should always be kept
clean.

Cut No. 47.
JOINTED OR SNAFFLE-BIT.

Some horses work more agreeably in this character of bit than any
other. It gives more room for the tongue and the pressure is more
on the jaws of the mouth than with the straight bit. Cut No. 47 repre-
sents a very good pattern and one that many horses prefer to others.
SEVERE BITS OFTEN INCREASE THE DIFFICULTY.

Punishment bits are intended to overcome the mischief already done
by some bungling, unthinking, unfeeling and careless handler; but we
are sorry to say that, as a rule, they result in making a bad matter
worse.

THE HORSE BETWEEN TWO FIRES.

With the punishment by the whip at the rear end of the animal, and
a harsh and mutilating bit at the front end. tlie liorse is between two
fires; and if he docs not balk, rear, plunge, and run away, it is a wonder.

112

HORSE SENSE.

CAREFULLY SELECT THE BRIDLE BIT ADAPTED TO THE
HORSE.

In the commencement of the harness education of the horse, the
selection and adjustment of the bit is of the first importance. It should
be of the smoothest character, and adapted to the width of the mouth.
Many bits are too long, and a few too short. The bridle should be so
fitted to the head as to let the bit rest easy in the mouth; not too
long nor too short. The bridle should not be so long in the headstall,
■as to drop the bit so low down in the mouth that the rings of the bit
-will be drawn into the mouth; nor should it be so short as to draw the
angles of the mouth upwards, and become a constant source of annoy-
ance to the animal.

The question of the proper bit for each horse is one that can only
be determined by trial, and if several changes are necessary we should not
be discouraged. Try, try again.

Cut No. 48.
TONGUE-LOLLING BIT.

To the horse that is nervous about keeping his tongue under the bit
and constantly trying to get it over the bit and let it hang
out at one side of the mouth, this bit shown in Cut No. 48 is well adapted
for the purpose, and is just as easy in the mouth as the straight bar-bit,
except the annoyance of the plate, which should be kept loose on the
bit by keeping perfectly clean.

ATTENTION TO THE HORSE'S TEETH.

The teeth of the equine, like the human race in civilized life, require
close attention. Generally the dilliculty in the human family is in cut-
ting the first set of teeth, but with the horse the greatest trouble is in
getting the second or permanent teeth; and as the horse's mouth is a
-dark and difficult place to examine, he is frequently left to suffer seri-,
ously before proper attention is given to his condition.

YOUNG HORSES' MOUTHS REQUIRE TO BE LOOKED
AFTER CAREFULLY.

Young horses' mouths should be looked after frequently, to see that
the temporary or milk teeth are shed or removed at the proper time, so
that the permanent teeth m.ay come in regularly, and leave the grinding

IIOKSE SENSE. 113

surtaces of the Icctli of both jaws coming together as they should for
perfect mastication.

THE CAPS OF THE TEMTORARY TEETH MAY NEED RE-
MOVING.

If the caps of tlic temporary teeth remain too long, they should be
removed by the aid of forceps.

THE INSIDE OF THE UPPER AND THE OUTSIDE OF THE
LOWER TEETH WEAR.

It will be observed that the upper jaw is wider than the under and,
as a consequence, the greatest wear will be on the inner portions of the
upper teeth and the outer of the lower, which often leaves rough, jagged
edges of upper teeth next the cheeks (outside), and the same condition
on the teeth of the lower jaw next the tongue (inside), and these pro-
jections .'^hould be smoothed down by the use of the guarded mouth
rasp. This is all that is generally needed to keep the horse's mouth and
teeth in good condition. Anyone can do this work, as but little skill or
labor is required.

LONG TEETH SHOULD BE CUT OFF. AND DECAYED ONES
EXTRACTED.

Sometimes it will be found that the first or last molars are too long,
and then it will be necessary to have a veterinarian cut them ofif, or dress
them down level with the other teeth, so the horse can masticate his
food properly. In all cases where the horse is "quidding" his food,
slobbering, holding his head to one side while chewing, or giving any
evidence that he is sufifering pain, a careful examination should be made,
and the trouble remedied at once. If a decayed or broken tooth is
found, it should be taken out. If there are any too long, have them
cut ofif, and all projections and sharp corners dressed down; but in no
case have the grinding surfaces of the teeth interfered with, except as
here indicated.

The horse's health and actions often depend on the condition of the
teeth, consequently it is a good plan to have the mouth and teeth ex-
amined at regular intervals, and if anything is wrong have it attended
to in time by a skillful operator.

CHAPTER XXV.

FITTING THE COLLAR TO THE HORSE.

The liarness service of the horse is largely done by the shoulders,
then from the vast amount of work he docs for us, all will agree that he
justly deserves a perfect fitting collar, and nothing short of this should
satisfy any horse owner, and like a bridle-bit, perfectly adapted to the
mouth of the horse, is a perfectly fitting collar to the neck and shoulders
of the animal.

THE COLLAR MANUFACTURER SOAKS THE LEATHER
BEFORE STUFFING THE COLLAR.

The collar manufacturer stuffs and shapes the collar over an inanimate
form, intended to represent the shape cf the horse's neck in breadth and
thickness, the material being thoroughly soaked, and as limp as a rag.
It is then left to dry. When dry the collar is so firm and stiff, that in
many cases it is impossible to buckle the hames tight enough to bring
the collar to the shape of the horse's neck, and the shoulders are often
compelled to adapt themselves to the collar, rather than the latter to the
former.

THE COLLAR SHOULD FIT THE NECK AND SHOULDERS
CLOSELY.

The necks and shoulders of no two horses are alike, and it is very
seldom indeed that the shoulders of any one horse are exactly the same
in size and form. The collar that will fit a horse in the early spring,
when he is fat, will generally be found too large at harvest time, and the
shoulder of the fat horse is different in form from what it is when he is
thin in flesh; consequently, the importance of watching the adaptation of
the collar to the shoulders.

EVERY HORSE SHOULD HAVE HIS OWN COLLAR.

Every horse should have his own collar, and it should always fit close
up to the neck along its entire v/idth; never tight at the points of the
shoulder and loose towards the top of the neck, nor the reverse. Al-
ways have the hame-straps properly adjusted to suit the form of the
horse's neck at the top and bottom, and always be absolutely sure that
the lower hame-strap is buckled as tight as the thickness of the neck of
the horse will permit, every time he is harnessed.

HORSE SENSE. - 115

ALMOST ALL DAMAGE DONE THE HORSE'S NECK AND
SHOULDERS BY LARGE COLLARS.

Loosely fitting collars and carelessness in adjustment of the hames
•do great mischief to our horses' shoulders. See Cut No. 49.

Cut No. 49.
A GOOD GENERAL FORM OF COLLAR.

ADJUSTMENT OF THE HAME-TUG MUST BE MADE BY THE
DRIVER.

The adjustment of the hame-tugs, so as to bring the draught on the
shoulder at the proper place, is also a very important matter that de-
serves the closest attention. If ihe draught is too low^, the movement
of the shoulders in walking gives too much motion, backw^ard and for-
ward, to the collar, and is almost certain to cause soreness, both at the
points of the shoulder and at the top of the neck; and if the draught is
too high, the injury will be equally as great. There is just a proper
place (according to the conformation of each and every horse — see cut
No. 50) for the draught of the hame-tug, and the owner or handler should
be observing enough to know where that is, as no rule can be given that
will be sui^cient for all horses; it must be left to the good judgment of
those in authority. When the hame-tugs are just at the proper place there
will be but very little motion at the top of the hames as the horse walks
along; but when too low, there will be seen a weaving back and forth
of the hames at the top. which shows that the draught is too near the

116

HORSE SENSE.

point of the shoulders, and the collar is kept in a constant twist one way
and the other, which is very injurious to the shoulders and top of the
neck. This is generally the condition when the top of the neck and
points of the shoulders are sore at the same time.

Cut No. 50.
ADJUSTMENT OF HAME TUG.

Now, we have represented how the collar should fit the horse's
shoulders, and also told you in what condition the collar is made; but
have not yet told you outright just how to get a perfect fit for each and
every horse, which must be done or you will have a right to feel that the
subject is left almost where it was started.

TO MAKE COLLAR FIT NECK AND SHOULDERS.

The horse collar is made over a form that suits the taste of the maker,
and while it is thoroughly wet. Is it not well, then, to make the collar
to fit the form of the neck and shoulders of the horse that is to wear it?
To do this, select a collar of the size and general form best suited to
the horse, wrap it with thoroughly wet cloths wound round it, and let it
remain in them over night. In the morning put the collar — new or old —
( n the horse, and with the hame strap draw the collar snugly to sides

HORSE SENSE. 117

WHEN SOAKED, THE HORSE CAN ADAPT THE COLLAR TO
HIS SHOULDER BY WORK.

After the collar has been soaked and fitted to the neck of the horse,
by means of the hame-straps, and hame-tugs properly adjusted, then
work the horse moderately through the day, and the collar will be better
fitted to that particular horse and to every inequality of his shoulders
than the best expert in the whole country could do over an inanimate
form. This is the easiest, the best, and the most perfect manner of
fitting a collar that we have ever found, and dispenses with pads and
sore shoulders if well done.

SOAK THOROUGHLY AS OFTEN AS THE COLLAR IS
FOUND NOT TO FIT.

If you have fitted collars to your horses by this method in the spring,
when they were fat, and then worked them down thin in flesh, it will be
necessary to soak the collars again and readjust them as before, and in
this way you do not have to be at the expense of pads, which have a
tendency to soften the shoulders rather than toughen them, and are also
an addition to the harness that is entirely unnecessary if the collars are
properly fitted.

HAME-STRAPS SHOULD BE BUCKLED TIGHT.

Always see to it that the hame-stramps are buckled tight enough to
draw the collar close up to the sides of the horse's neck its entire width,
so there is no space whatever between the sides of the horse's neck and
the collar. If the horse shrinks in flesh this matter of drawing the hame-
straps up a little closer is of the utmost importance in preserving the
good condition of the shoulders.

THE SHOULDER AND COLLAR MUST BE KEPT CLEAN.

The shoulders and the collar should be kept scrupulously clean where
the horse is constantly at hard labor, and a weak solution of salt and
water, and sometimes a decoction of white oak bark, as a wash for the
shoulders, every night after the day's work is done, is found to be ex-
cellent in practice.

BADLY ADJUSTED COLLARS ONE GREAT CAUSE OF
BALKY HORSES.

There is but little question that the horse suffers more, and many of
his bad habits are traceable to, the abuse of his mouth through the agency
of torturing bits and badly fitting collars than from all else combined.
Should not, therefore, all thinking, feeling, sympathizing humanity who
have anything to do with horses, give these two subjects more careful
attention in the future and thereby relieve much of the torture now in-
flicted upon man's best animal friend?

NOTE.— If this little book serves but the one purpose of supplying
all horses that have to draw loads with perfectly fitting collars, the au-
thor will feel fully compensated for the time and labor he has devoted to
the subject of the horse and his friends.

CHAPTER XXVI.

NATURAL FOOT OF THE HORSE AND HOW TO PRESERVE

IT.

The foot of the horse is one of the most important (and least under-
stood) part of his organization. It should be of proportionate size to
the animal. The wall should be more or less upright, smooth, thick and
tough, about twice the length at the toe that it is at the heel (from the
hair to the ground surface), and well spread at the heel.

THE FROG AND SOLE NATURE'S PROTECTION OF THE
FOOT.

The sole should be concave, and provided with good strong bars
(braces) to aid the frog in its elastic action. The frog (nature's heel
cushion, jar protector and heel spreader) should be large, smooth and
elastic.

We here present cuts of the plantar (or bottom surface) of several
feet, to show their difference in conformation and appearance to the
careful observer.

The foot reaift,- fyr the shof, s/louinff
froQ fuui fjors as thei/ should be I'e/i

Sound but flcu foot

Cut No. 51.
GROUND SURFACE OF TWO FAIRLY GOOD FEET.

Fig. I shows the healthy, well-formed foot, ready for the fitting of the
shoe without the use of the "butrass," or paring knife, leaving the frog,

HORSE SENSE.

119

bars and sole in their natural condition, except just where the shoe bear-
ing comes in contact with the foot. Cut. No. 51.

Fig. 2 represents a sound but rather flat foot. The heel is well spread,
and the frog is large and elastic, which is of the first importance to the
free movement of any horse. Cut No. 51.

Cx)nira/:/£d toot Dn/ify^ rrmtmrfed fhot

Cut No. 52.
GROUND SURFACE OF TWO CONTRACTED FEET.

Fig. 3 shows the foot which has been shod with thick-keeled shoes,
keeping the frog from coming in contact with the floor upon which the
horse is forced to stand, or the hard road on which he must travel in his
work. In this case the foot has been deprived of nature's cushion (the
frog) for warding off a part of the jar to the column of bones above, and
also nature's heel-spreader, the result of which is to bring the bearing
upon the wall of the foot altogether, which produces more or less in-
flammation, and consequent absorption and contraction at the heel — the
thinnest part of the wall. Cut No. 52.

after Haobner

Cut No. 53.
GROUND SPACE AND WALL OF FOUNDERED FOOT.

120 HORSE SENSE.

Fig. 4 represents the foot in a very badly contracted condition, from
a similar cause, and to* such a degree that it renders the horse compara-
tively worthless in his work, to say nothing of the constant suffering he
must endure from the violation of the general laws to which he has been
subjected at the hands of his owner, groom or blacksmith. Cut No. 52.

Figs. 5 and 6 show the sole (or plantar surface) and wall of the
foundered foot. This, again, is no inherent fault of the horse, but is
usually the result of bad handling, hard driving, standing when hot, ex-
posed to draughts of air, drinking cold water when heated, etc.

The front feet should be a trifle larger than the hind ones, and on
no account should one be permitted to grow out of proportion to its
mate. Cut No. 53.

CARE IN THE EARLY LIFE OF THE HORSE IS A GREAT
ADVANTAGE.

Attention to the horse's feet should commence in very early colt-
hood, and continue through life. The wall of the foot should be fre-
quently rasped down even with the sole, and kept level, to maintain per-
fectly sound feet and unblemished limbs. If the wall of the foot is kept
shortened to its union with the sole there will be no necessity for cutting
the bars, trimming the frog, or gouging out the sole; the horse will have
a perfect bearing for the column of bones of every limb, stand firm, with
his feet well under him, and move off unfalteringly.

KEEP THE COLTS FEET LEVEL.

The colt's feet should be handled from the day of foaling, so that he
will have no more hesitation in permitting his feet handled than to have
the halter put upon his head; and as the horse without good feet is but a
poor excuse at best, then why should not this m.ost important part of his
anatomy not have the very closest attention, particularly when his feet
can be trimmed as quickly as a good job of grooming can be given his
body?

TRIM THE COLTS FEET OFTEN.

The work of trimming should be repeated once every two weeks, and
on no account postponed longer than a month. A little work upon the
feet, and often, will be more readily submitted to by the colt or horse
(and not so much dreaded by his owner) than if let go until the horse has
almost forgotten that he ever had his feet trimmed; and the owner will
not be worn out before the job is completed.

The horse that has had his feet properly cared for in early life will re-
quire less shoeing and be more profitable to his owner.

CHAPTER XXVII.

SHOEING.. AND ITS EFFECTS.

The form, construction and physiology of the horse's foot certainly in-
dicate he was designed by nature to go bare-foot, but if, owing to the
uses to which we put him, and the dry, hard roads over which he is com-
pelled to travel, the wall of the foot wears away faster than it grows,
something should be done to protect that part of his anatomy; and this
protection should be continued, both for the comfort of the horse and
profit to the owner, just so long as he is required to perform such
service, and no longer.

THE UNSHOD HORSE SURER FOOTED THAN THE HORSE
CONTINUALLY SHOD.

That the unshod horse, with good feet and of mature years, that has
never known what it is to wear iron upon his feet, is surer footed, sounder
in his action, and more perfectly gaited than the horse that has had the
benefit of the experience of the best horseshoers, there is no question.
Eut as circumstances and conditions call for our assistance in the care
of the animal that plays such an important part in our civilization, we
must consider the best means possible for his protection and preserva-
tion.

REFERENCE TO OUR LATE FRIEND, DR. WILLIAM DICK-
SON.

Owing to the high esteem in which we hold the sound judgment of
our late lamented friend and co-worker of former years. Dr. William
Dickson, of Litchfield, Minn., on this important subject, we shall make
frequent reference to his report on this subject, tew the bureau of animal
industry, as our views were in such perfect accord. We feel it a just
tribute he so fittingly merits. He says:

HORSE SHOEING AN INJURY TO THE HORSES' FEET.

'"The system of horseshoeing as it obtains, even in the most skillful
hands, is pregnant with mischief to the foot, which no one who is con-
versant with the facts will deny. Each time a horse is shod, every time
a nail is driven, means so much injury to the foot. The better the job,
the less the injury.

THE HORNY WALL, SOLE AND FROG SHOULD NOT BE
MOLESTED.

"The horny wall, and that portion of the sole which is in immediate
contact with it, on which the shoe should rest, are the only portions of

122

HORSE SENSE.

the foot to be interfered with in preparing it for the shoe, and all the
trimming that is necessary can, and ought to, be effected by means of
the rasp. The frog and sole should, on no pretext whatever, be meddled
with, save to the extent indicated.

THE KNIFE, RASP AND LARGE NAILS ALL INJURE THE
FEET OF THE HORSE.

"As the work is too often done, all over the country, the foot is
pared to such an extent that it is robbed of its cushion, its natural ex-
pander; its lateral braces (bars) removed; its sole mangled, and its natural
repair arrested; the hair-like fibres which make up the horny wall crushed
and deflected, and their nutritive function impeded by an unnecessary
number of nails. Robbed by the rasp of its cortical layer of natural
varnish, which retains the moisture secreted by nature, the strong walls
become weakened, and the foot is in a very sorry plight indeed."

Fig. 1.

Fig. 3.

Fig. 2.

Cut No. 54.

ILLUSTRATION OF GOOD AND BAD SHOEING.

Fig. I, Cut No. 54, shows the foot well prepared and properly shod.

Fig. 2, Cut No. 54, represents the wall cut down in front to make
the foot fit the shoe.

Fig. 3, Cut No. 54, is where the heels have been cut down and the
toe allowed to grow entirely too long. One about as bad as the other.

RESULTS OF GOOD AND BAD SHOEING.

"Fig. I, Cut No. 51, shows the only parts v.hich should be reduced
■when a foot is properly prepared for the shoe. Sufficient care is not al-
ways given to shortening the hoof, so that its angle should conform ex-
actly to the inclination of the limb. It would be misleading to lay down
any arbitrary degree of obliquity."

THE CHARACTER OF THE WORKMAN OF VITAL IMPORT-
ANCE.

Too much importance cannot possibly be attached by the workman
to this and the succeeding step, namely, leveling the ground surface of
the foot, as the slightest departure from absolute exactitude here renders
whatever amount of care he may devote to the completion of his work
worse than useless.

HORSE SENSE.

123

THE SHOE SHOULD BE AS LIGHT AND NARROW AS POS-
SIBLE AT THE HEEL.

"The shoe should be as light as the weight of the animal and the
nature of the work he is expected to perform will admit of, as the legiti-
mate mission of the shoe is to prevent undue wear of the wails, and a
light shoe will do this quite as well as a heavy one.

"The upper surface of tiie shoe (the part that comes in contact with
the foot) should be perfectly level, and slioald not be beveled in nor out."

THE SHOE MUST BE MADE TO FIT THE FOOT AND NOT
THE FOOT TO THE SHOE.
"It would seem to be unnecessary to say that the shoe should be so
shaped as to conform to the natural tread of the foot, yet a very common
practice obtains of using a shoe of uniform shape (often less in circum-
ference, if such a term is permissible, than the foot on which it is to be
nailed), and then rasping down the foot to fit it, thereby robbing the
walls of their natural covering, and permitting the escape of the mois-
ture of the foot by evaporation. Disintegration follows, and then the
wonder is why the foot will not retain a shoe as in the beginning! If
the shoe fitted as it ought to do, the use of the rasp would be next to
unnecessary, except, possibly, a very little under the clinches, and a
small gouge would be better for that purpose."

Cut No. 55.
RIGHT ANGLE, BUT BOTH RIGHT AND WRONG FITTING.

Figs. 7 and 8. Cut No. 55, show correct and incorrect fitting. Fig. 7
being right and Fig. 8 wrong. A badly fitting shoe is to the horse as

124 HORSE SENSE.

painful as a tight fitting boot is to his owner, and under no circum-
stances should shoes be permitted to remain on more than a month, or
five weeks at the outside, and some require to be reshod more frequently.

SMALL SIZED NAILS AND FEWER OF THEM THE BETTER.

"The nails should be of the smallest size and of the fewest number to
insure the retention of the shoe the required length of time, and this is a
rule that should never be departed from. If the foot has been properly
leveled, it is surprising how few nails will hold the shoe in place, and as
long as is required; but if the fitting has been carelessly done, it will be
equally surprising how shot a time is required to loosen the clinches and
the shoe.

"Two of the commonest errors in shoeing are the use of too many
nails, and these of an altogether unnecessary size, and then driving them
too high up into the walls."

LONG SHOES AND WIDE HEELS A DECIDED DISADVAN-
TAGE.

Too many blacksmiths make what is called the "over heeled" shoes;
that is, shoes with straight heels or calks wide apart and some distance
back of ihe heel of the foot as well as at the sides near the heel, and
their reasons for so doing is always in error.

NATURE MAKES NO AIISTAKES IN RELATION TO THE
FOOT OF THE HORSE.

Nature makes no mistakes. If the foot had needed the rear support
they claim for it, the colt would have been foaled with that extension of
the foot at the heel. And we want to imitate nature all we possibly
can in relation to the foot of the horse, especially at and near the heel.
Everybody seems to be afraid of injury to the horse's foot if not pro-
tected in some way, and this very so-called protection is doing more
harm than could possibly be counted on if left in its natural form. Who
ever saw corns or quarter-cracks in connection with the foot that had
never been shod?

THE CHARLIER SHOE, OR TIP.

M. Charlier, of Paris, France, some years ago invented the tip, or
short shoe, which bears his name, and Joseph Cairn Simpson (the well-
known horseman of California), as well as many others, have used
modifications of this shoe to their entire satisfaction.

In preparing the foot for the shoe and sole, the frog and bars are
left, as they ought to be, absolutely untouched, and a groove is cut, by
means of a knife specially designed for the purpose, in the wall, not high
enough to reach above the sole level and the thickness of the wall in
depth. Into this groove a narrow band of iron is sunk, and nailed to
the foot by means of four to six conical-headed nails, the heads being
countersunk in the shoe.

HORSE .SENSE.

125

ADVANTAGES OF THE TIP OVER THE FULL SHOE.

The advantage of this method of shoeing is that the frog, bars and
the greater portion of the sole come to the ground exactly as if the foot
were unshod, and one and ail participating in weight-bearing, as it was
obviously intended thej should, while the wall is protected from wear by
the small rim ol iron let into its ground surface. When the foot is shod
in this manner, tlie frog obtains pressure to the extent contemplated by
nature, and maintains aU of its elastic action almost to the same extent
as the unshod foot. Cut Xo. 56. Fig. 9 is a side view of the foot pre-
pared for the tip. or short shoe. Fig. 10 represents the bottom of the
foot witii the tip attached, and Fig. i 1 s!iows again a side view of the
appearance of the foot after being shod.

REPRESENTATIONS OF THE CHARLIER TIP OR SHORT
SHOE.

Fool prepar-ed. ror C/uirber >ajj y„al shod u;/h rhar/u:r b/,

Cut No. 56.

NEVER MOLEST THE NATURAL COATING OF THE HORN

OF THE FOOT.

'Tn its natural .=tate the entire hoof, from the coronet to the sole level,
is covered by a fine coating of natural varnish, thickest at the upper

126 HORSE SENSE.

margin and gradually becoming thinner as it descends. In a very dry
atmosphere, like ours, it is of paramount importance that this beautiful
shield should be preserved and fostered, and no name is bad enough for
a senseless custom which, to serve no good purpose, robs the foot of a
necessary protection which is beyond the power of art to imitate or
replace."

MANNER OF SHOEING IN WINTER WHEN IT IS A NECES-
SITY.

Winter shoeing in this climate is almost a necessity, where heavy
loads are to be drawn over wet, slippery or icy roads, but it should be re-
membered that the horse accustomed to going barefoot will maintain his
footing better from the use of the elastic frog and bars of the foot than
the horse not sharp shod. The shorter, smaller and sharper the calks
of the shoe, suf^cient for the catch, the better and safer for the horse.
Long, heavy ties and calks on the shoe puts the horse up on stilts, and as
they wear unever, more or less trouble ensues.

THE HORN OF THE FOOT AFFECTED BY SHOEING.
The horse that has worn shoes for a good long time is very apt to go
lame without their protection. The growth of horn has been dimin-
ished and the material supplied for that purpose of an inferior char-
acter, and as the horn becomes harder (not tough) by shoeing, it is more
rapidly worn away on hard roads. The horn of the natural unshod foot
is easily cut with knife, but does not work with the rasp as well as the
hard foot of the horse that wears shoes. The former is elastic and as
pliable as a piece of whalebone, the latter is brittle and about as lifeless
as the hoof of a dead horse, and soaking tubs nor poultices or oils will
bring back the natural condition. The thousands of minute tubes that
carry nourishment to the entire wall have been cut off or marred by the
knife and nails.

CONTRACTED FEET THE RESULT OF BAD SHOEING.

As before stated, the outside of the horn is covered with an impervious
enamel and retains the moisture of the foot when unmolested by the
rasp, in trying to make what is called a finished job of the shoeing. No
wonder we behold such a vast array of contracted feet. When we see
that the natural unshod foot is strong and elastic, with a well developed
and elastic frog of wedged-shaped form, which prevents contraction,
while a sole that sheds off its old growth as fast as the new is formed,
then why in the name of common sense should we deliberately go to
work and rob the outside protection that nature has so wisely provided?

Nature's "buffer" — cushion for the foot — to ward off a part of the jar
to the column of bones above, as well as to the foot itself, should always
come in contact with the ground, whether the horse is shod or not, and
on no account should the smith be permitted to trim and carve at this
important elastic body, the frog. It is impossible in a work of this size
and character to take up the different phases and styles of the shoeing
question, much of which is yet in its experimental stages.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

FEEDING HORSES.

The amount of food given should be regulated by the size and breed
of ihe animal, and by the amount and kind of work he is required to do.
The horse has a small stomach in proportion to his size; hence, frequent
feeding when under hard work is necessary.

THE HORSE SUFFERS MORE FROM HUNGER THAN MAN.

The human stomach can bear hunger far better than that of the
horse. If when driving on a journey you feel hungry, you may be sure
your horse has felt it before you did, and is needing his feed more than
you.

Oats and hay are the ideal horse foods of our country, but because
they are the best is no reason why they should be exclusively used.

VARIETY OF FEEDS IS AS MUCH RELISHED BY THE
HORSE AS BY MAN.

Variety is often much relished by the horse, and, with this variety,
cheapness and economy may be introduced. Good timothy hay, early cut
and well cured, is the best hay for horses. Timothy hay is heavier than
that of other grasses, and contains a larger quantity of nutritive matter
in a small bulk. If left till it be over-ripe, it becomes hard and woody.
It is more digestible when cut rather on the green side, and makes better
horse feed.

FARMERS, AS A RULE, FEED TOO MUCH HAY.

Many farmers feed far too nnicli hay to their horses. They might
very well take a few lessons in this matter from the livery men, who
find that their horses do better and keep healthier on a small allowance
of hay.

AMOUNT OF HAY FED TO RACE HORSES.

Rase horses and others, in large stables, are fed on six to eight
pounds of hay and from fifteen to twenty pounds of the best oats per
day, and, if needed, a bran mash once a week, — one-third of the hay after
exercise in the morning, the balance at night, and the oats fed at four
feeds. For the work horse, more hay is given, up to ten pounds per day
(six pounds loose and four pounds cut), and mixed with his oats,
sixteen to eighteen pounds. Any farmer can see how much this differs
from his feeding, and yet these horses are required to do hard work and
'-nake sudden exertions, taxing all their powers.

128 HORSE SENSE.

HORSES KEPT CONTINUOUSLY IN THE STABLE MUST BE
FED WITH CARE.

When horses are in the stable much of the time, the feeding needs
to be carefully managed. Sv/ede turnips (rutabagas) are relished by
horses, and seem better food for them than the carrot. They do well on
roots when idle or at moderate woiiv.

HORSES DO NOT NEED THEIR FOOD COOKED.

Cooking food for horses has not been found generally profitable.
Careful experiments made years ago showed that horses do better on
raw food. Crushed or ground oats are much used. Some horses have
a tendency to bolt their feed half chewed, and some of the grain is
voided whole in these cases. Grinding helps any such tendency.

RATIONS FOR HORSES IN LONDON.

In England some of the large companies, which work a great many
horses, give mixed food, and use considerable quantities of American
corn. The North Metropolitan Company (London) allows for each
horse per day about the following rations: Corn, nine pounds; oats,
seven pounds; peas, one pound; beans, one pound; hay, seven pounds;
cut straw, three pounds; total, twenty-eight pounds. The South London
Tramway Company gives corn, seven pounds; oats, seven pounds; beans,
one pound; hay, eleven pounds; straw, three pounds; total, twenty-nine
pounds.

FEEDING BRITISH CAVALRY HORSES.

That which needs special attention by our feeders is the quantity of
hay fed and the desirability of usitig a small quantity of straw in the
ration. British cavalry horses are allowed ten pounds of oats and twelve
pounds of hay as an ordinary feed. If out on active service, the oats are
increased to fifteen pounds. In private stables and on the farm it is
better to give greater variety to the food, and the wise feeder will be
guided by the season and the price of foods, in keeping his animals in
the best of health at the least expense.,

LONDON TRAM AND BUS COMPANY FEED THEIR HORSES
SEVEN TIMES A DAY.

The London County Council Tram and Bus management employs
about 4,000 . carefully-selected, stout, thick, muscular horses, weighing
1,150 to 1,250 pounds. These horses are fed as follows: Thirteen pounds
of roughage per day, consisting of eleven and a half pounds of hay. and
one and a half pounds of straw, fourteen pounds of concentrates or grain,
consisting of eight pounds of corn, four pounds of oats and two pounds
of peas, all ground and mixed together. All hay and straw is cut, and
all grain is fed mixed with cut hay or straw and moistened. The horses
are fed seven times each day, extending from 5 a. m. to 8 p. m. Water
is given always before every feed, and every time they come in from
work. Rock salt is accessible at all times. The horses stand either on
stone or vitrified brick floors, and are never permitted to lie down except

HORSE SENSE. 129

during the night, when the stalls are well bedded. During the day the
bedding is all put forward under the manger. The average period of
service at very exacting labor is about seven years. The stables contain
from ICO to 200 horses each, located in various parts of the city, to be
convenient to the numerous sections of the bus and tram lines. The
manager travels over 10,000 miles a year in making his daily rounds.

MORTALITY FROM ALL CAUSES ONE-HALF OF ONE PER
CENT.

The average percentage of loss from all causes with this company is
one-half of one per cent annually, which is as low as could be expected
under any regime.

FEEDS AND FEEDING.

Proper feeds — balanced rations — in relation to work or exercise is of
the utmost importance in the care, development and health of our horses.

MUSCLE MAKING FOOD AND EXERCISE FOR THE COLTS.

The young growing animals need plenty of muscle and bone-making
food, such as oats, bran, oil meal, beans, peas, clover, hay, etc., but they
must have exercise in proportion to the food consumed. And it is im-
possible to grow a good strong, useful horse without plenty of exercise.
The feed and exercise must always be considered together and the young
growing animal should have plenty of both.

AFTER MATURITY, THE HORSE IS FED FOR HIS WORK
AND MAINTENANCE.

After the horse is matured, then he is to be fed in proportion to the
work to be performed, over and above that of maintenance. Like our-
selves who eat our breakfast, dinner and supper and weigh the same, he
is to be considered in the same light. If he is idle, we should feed him
just enough to supply the waste material of the body, and no more, un-
less we wish to increase his weight, and this must be done carefully, or
derangements of the digestion are likely to occur.

IDLENESS AND FAT, GREAT ENEMIES TO HORSES.

We here wish to caution every horseman who is working his horses
hard and then suddenly gives them a period of idleness, that the grain
ration should be cut down at least one half, and oftimes more would be
better for the welfare of the animal. Probably more ailments of the
horse are traceable to this, and the irregular hours of feeding than all
else combined. Azaturia, and a host of other troubles are almost directly
traceable to this one cause of high feeding and idleness— a waste of the
food material, and too often the horse. It is a standing saying with the
Arabs that "Rest and fat are the greatest enemies of the horse."

DIFFERENT HORSES NEED DIFFERENT FEEDS AND
AMOUNTS.

Of course, there is a difference in horses; some will require more feed
than others, and some will consume much more than they can digest and

130 HORSE SENSE.

assimilate. Here is where the "art" of feeding comes in. How often
we have seen it exemplified.

ONE MAN WILL WORK FLESH OFF AND ANOTHER WILL
WORK IT ON HORSES.

One man will take a team thin in flesh, work it hard and have the
horses gain in flesh on much less feed than they had before. This shows
that it is not so much the amount of feed given, as it is the properly
balanced ration and the regularity with which they were fed, together
with the manner of handling. Another will take the team in the height
of condition of flesh and fit for their work, and in a short time the
horses are seen to be dull and losing flesh, notwithstanding they had
all the grain and hay they could consume.

RATION FOR THE WEANLING COLT, THE YEARLING, TWO
AND THREE YEARS OLD.

Below we give a number of "Rations" in relation to the character of
animal and work required, per day, for trotting bred stock:

Weanling Colt. — Two to three pounds cf oats. Hay all it will eat.

Yearling Colt. — Four to five pounds of oats. Hay all it will eat.

Two-yearColt. — Six to seven pounds of oats. Hay all it will eat.

Three-year Colt in Training. — Nine to twelve pounds of oats. Hay
somewhat limited.

Horse in Races. — Ten to fourteen pounds of oats. Hay somewhat
limited.

Road Horse. — Eight to ten pounds of oats. Hay, ten to twelve
pounds.

Carriage Horse. — Ten to twelve pounds of oats. Hay, twelve to
fourteen pounds.

Farm Horse at Heavy Work. — Twelve to fourteen pounds of oats,
three pounds of corn. Hay, thirteen to fifteen pounds.

Draft Horse at Heavy Work. — Fourteen to sixteen pounds of oats,
five pounds of corn. Hay, sixteen to eighteen pounds.

VALUE OF BRAN AND BRAN-MASHES FOR HORSES.

The addition to the above, of one to five pounds of bran per day-
considering the animal, the condition of the bowels and the character
of the hay, will often prove very advantageous. An occasional bran-
mash for any indications of a feverish condition must not be neglected.

The question of feeding is largely a matter of regularity and close ob-
servation of conditions and food stufT.

Cooked food is not to be thought of, except m case of sickness or
the old and comparatively toothless animals. The horse has both a good
mill, and digestive apparatus when properly fed and handled.

CHAPTER XXIX.

FATTENING HORSES FOR MARKET.

It has become quite common to stall-feed horses for the market, very
much as cattle are prepared, and it is said "fat covers up a multitude of
■defects," to the buyer.

Mr. H. W. Brattell, of Iowa, has given the subject of fattening horses
<lose attention, and furnishes the results of his observations as follows:.

HORSES FED GRAIN FIVE TIMES PER DAY.

"They are put in the barn and fed gradually, as great care must be
taken for a few days to avoid colic. It seems most profitable to feed
grain about five times per day, due to the fact that, the stomach of a
horse being proportionately smaller than the stomach of a cow, he needs
his feed in smaller quantities, or as the old quotation is, 'Little and often.'
The hay, of course, they have access to at any time, by filling the racks
twice a day. They also are given all the water they will drink, twice a
day.

CORN A GREAT FACTOR IN FATTENING HORSES.

"Corn is given at 5 a. m., then water at 7; at 9 fill all the hayracks
and give oats and bran, the proportion being two-thirds bran and one-
third oats. Then at 12 feed corn again; at 3 p. m. feed oats and bran,
and also refill the hayracks. At 4 p. m. give second watering, and at 6
the last feed of corn is given. The proportion for each horse when upon
full feed is as follows: Corn, from ten to fourteen ears at each feed, oats
and bran, about three quarts per feed.

GLAUBER SALTS SUBSTITUTED FOR EXERCISE.

Another point of great importance comes into consideration where
a large unmber of horses are fed: It is almost impossible to give them
all sufficient exercise, and so, as a rule, they are given no exercise f'-om
the time they are put in the barn until a few days before they are to be
shipped. So something must be given as a substitute for the exercise
in order to keep the blood in good order, or else "stocked" legs will be
one of the first troubles. Glauber salts will in most cases prevent this
trouble, and, mixed with the oats and bran, the horses will eat them
quite readily. These salts are fed about twice per week at equal inter-
vals, giving about one-half or three-fourths of a pint at each feed. These
salts can be bought very cheap by having your druggist order them for
you at wholesale prices. They are not nearly so strong as the epsom
salts, but they have a very desirable and cooling effect upon the blood.

132 HORSE SENSE.

OIL-MEAL IS FED TO SOFTEN THE SKIN.

"Oil-meal may also be given to good advantage, as it aids greatly
in putting on flesh, and also gives the skin a soft and mellow touch. All
mangers and feed boxes should be cleaned out twice a day, and the cobs
and other refuse thrown out behind the horses and taken out with the
manure. By all means give the horses sufficient time for their stomachs
to rest, and this can be done by giving the first feed at 5 in the morning
and the last between 6 and 7 at night.

FLOATING THE TEETH. THAT HORSES MAY GRIND THEIR
FEED WELL.

Another point that ought to be mentioned is floating the teeth,
when the horses are put in, and before commencing to feed them. It
is best to get a veterinarian to do this, as he has the proper instruments,
and where there are so many to do, it can be done more rapidly. Float-
ing the teeth is a point which a great many people overlook, and is in
many instances the real cause of a horse being out of condition. When
a horse has a number of sharp projections on his teeth, the gums become
raw and sore, so that he does not masticate his feed thoroughly, and con-
sequently indigestion often results, and the horse runs down in condi-
tion. In a load of horses shipped from Kansas it was found upon exam-
ination that a large number of them had sharp projections on the outer
edge of the grinders, and their mouths were in such a condition that a
person would wonder how they could eat at all; but after they were
floated down quite a marked change was soon noticed. I think it will
pay better to put the horses' teeth in shape, and let them do their own
grinding, than it will to grind the grain for them.

GAINED AS HIGH AS FIVE AND A HALF POUNDS WEIGHT
PER DAY.

"When horses are fed in this manner, good gains are generally real-
ized. In one instance a horse fed in this manner made a gain of five
and one-half pounds per day for a period of fifty days, or in 100 days he
gained 550 pounds. And in several instances, with as many as a dozen
head, a gain of three and one-third pounds per day for a period of ninety-
days was obtained.

IS THIS STUFFING PROCESS GENERALLY OF ADVANTAGE?

This stuffing without exercise may enable the feeder to get the horse
in condition to go onto the market for sale at a good profit for his
feed and trouble, but how will it be with the buyer who' wants to put the
horse (so prepared) at hard work?

FEEDING WORK HORSES.

This is a subject in which every horseman is, or should be, particu-
larly interested; but it is a subject about which there is a great diver-
sity of opinion and theory, much of which is unworthy of considera-
tion. That there is a right way of feeding is demonstrated both in this

BORSB SENSE. 133

country and in Europe, where large numbers of horses are kept for
hard work, fed regularly by close observers, whose business it is to do
the best for the horses, their work and their owners.

WATER THE WORK HORSES BEFORE FEEDING.

When it is understood that the stomach of the horse can contain
only from three to three and one-half gallons, then it becomes apparent
that we must study the best methods of keeping him in health and
strength for the labor required of him, largely in the manner in which
we water and feed him. It is always best to water some time before
feeding.

TOO MANY HORSES ARE OVER-FED.

A great proportion of our horses are over-fed, many under-fed, and
but few out of the whole that are fed to the advantage of the horse and
owner. Horses are frequently fed as much as thirty or forty pounds
of hay in twenty-four hours, when twelve to twenty pounds is enough
for the majority of horses that are working hard; and as much as a
bushel, and sometimes more, of grain is given daily to each horse, when
one-half of the amount would be ample.

THE FEEDING SHOULD ACCORD WITH CONDITIONS.

One of the greatest and most frequent mistakes is in over-feeding
our horses, especially when idle or exhausted from hard work. It re-
quires vital energy to digest a heavy feed, as well as to perform hard
work, and when the horse is very tired it is bad practice to give him
a large feed until he is rested.

WORKING HORSES SHOULD BE FED LESS WHEN IDLE.

It is also a great mistake to feed our horses the same amount of
grain when idle for a few days (especially if in good flesh), after regular
work or exercise, as this is the very cause of that dread disease called
azaturia, which almost always attacks the best conditioned horse, and
if it does not kill him, it will deprive his owner of his use for a con-
siderable time.

NINTY PER CENT OF ACUTE SICKNESS THE RESULT OF
OVER-FEEDING.

It is of the utmost importance that we study carefully the best
methods of feeding our horses when at hard work, when idle, and
during the winter when they are but little used; thereby saving the
frequent calls of the veterinarian, drug bills and condition powders. It
is the almost universal statement of veterinarians, that ninety per cent
of the acute cases that they are called to treat is caused from over-feed-
ing.

VALUE OF A BRAN MASH.

If the horses cannot have green grass once or twice a week (na-
ture's great regulator), they should have a bran mash instead. But a s
hired help will often leave enough mash in the tub or manger to fer-

134 HORSE SENSE.

ment, we have found that dry bran, mixed with the oats and corn,
gives excellent resuUs and protects against dangers that come from feed-
ing stale or musty mash.

AN EXPERIMENT WITH OMNIBUS HORSES.

Some years ago an experiment was made by the London Omnibus
Comapny on 6,000 horses, to test the relative value between cut hay
and ground grain and whole grain and hay. They first divided the
horses, and 3,000 were fed the ground grain and cut hay, and the other
3,000 were fed the whole grain and hay, giving the latter nineteen pounds
of oats and thirteen pounds of hay daily, and the others were fed six-
teen pounds ground oats, seven and one-half pounds cut hay, and two
and one-half pounds cut straw. The first lot of horses got thirty-two
pounds, each, daily, and the latter only twenty-six pounds all told, and
yet they kept up well in ffesh and stood their work equally well with the
former.

SAVINGS IN ECONOMIC FEEDING.

The above system would make a saving of six pounds on each
horse daily, and counting this worth in that market five cents, there
would be a saving of $300 per day on the 6,000 horses.

AN EXPERIMENT WITH MILL HORSES.
Another experiment was made with heavy mill horses, by wetting
the cut hay and thoroughly soaking it for twelve hours before feeding,
mixing the ground feed with the wet cut hay just before feeding.

JUST THE RIGHT QUANTITY AND QUALITY OF FEED
SHOULD BE STUDIED.
In the above, the ration for each horse, to start with, was four
pounds dry cut hay, five pounds ground oats and barley, and a half
pound of brain, night and morning, and four pounds dry whole oats
at noon, without hay. This proved hardly sufficient for the large horses
and their heavy work, and it was afterwards incerased to five pounds
hay, five pounds ground grain and a half pound of brain, night and
morning, and eight pounds oats, without hay, at noon, to the perfect sat-
isfaction of the owners of the horses and ample feed for the largest
horses doing the heaviest work.

HORSES CAN BE WELL OR MADE SICK BY FEEDS AND
FEEDING.
The above experiment proved to be a saving of ten pounds of hay
and six pounds of grain daily to each horse, over the old whole grain
and hay method, besides under the old system many horses were sick
with colic and inflammation of the stomach and bowels, and for years
a sick horse has not been seen, since the new system has been
adopted. We would say, however, that no fixed and definite rules can
be laid down for feeding all horses, but by careful attention to the man-
ner in which they eat and the condition of the bowels, every farmer
may become quite a master of the art of feeding.

HORSE SENSE.
METHOD OF FEEDING THE LITTLE COLTS.

135

When the pasture gets short during the dry weather of summer,
both mares and colts shrink in flesh unless something is done for them.
It is a good time to get the little colts to eating grain, and we here
show a practical method in the picture of accomplishing the desired
object with little or no trouble.

FEED THE LITTLE COLTS GRAIN IN A SMALL YARD BY
THEMSELVES.

Fence in a small yard or pen with one rail or plank on each side,
high enough for the colts to run under, and still high enough so the
mares will not get over. Put a box or trough in the center of this yard
and place some grain in it, and the colts will soon get there, and learn
to eat, by having access to this place every time the stock comes to the
lot. In this manner the little colts are kept growing, and when weaning
time comes they are accustomed to grain feeding, and will keep on
growing with scarcely any falling ofif. See Cut No. 57.

Cut No. 57.
FEEDING YARD FOR COLTS.

136 HORSE SENSE.

FEEDING COLTS.
There is no more important subject in relation to the future use-
fulness of the horse than his growth, which is largely dependent on the
feed he gets after weaning time.

GROW THE FRAME-WORK OF THE COLTS FIRST.

Bone and muscle-making food is the most essential element re-
quired, and one or two quarts of sweet skim-milk, together with the
.-^rain ration of ground oats, barley, or corn and bran, will keep the colt
growing continuously, and thereby avoid that shrinkage that usually
follows the weaning period. Three or four pounds of good, sweet hay»
two or three pounds of oats and one of barley or corn ground, and a
half pound of bran, with the four quarts (not more) of skim milk daily^
varied to suit the size and make-up of the colt, will keep him growing
finely, and be very much better than if twice the amount had been
given. Don't think because skim milk is cheap and the colt likes it,,
that the more it will drink the better. The stomach must not be dis-
tended beyond activity. Enough is enough, and too much is a damage.

DONT TRY TO GROW COLTS ON HAY AND WATER ALONE.

Large quantities of ordinary hay or straw and water is what pro-
duces the ordinary stunted, pot-bellied orphan colt so often pointed out
as the scrub, when he may be well bred, and if properly attended to,
could have been made as good as many of the others. Regularity in
feeding is of far more importance in the growth of the colt than in-
creased quantity of feed.

DONT GIVE THE WEANLING COLTS LARGE AMOUNTS OF
WATER AT A TIME.

One very common error is giving the weanlings far too much water
at one time, which deranges their digestion, depraves their appetites,
and develops their bodies like "poisoned pups."

EXERCISE THE COLTS.

Exercise for the growing colts is of equal importance to their feed,
and should be as regular as the weather will permit. If the weather is
very severe, the colts must not be exposed long enough to become
thoroughly chilled, but it is a very pernicious habit to keep the colts in
the stable for days at a time and feed them heavily, as it will tell a sad
tale on their legs, that may require months to recover from.

WEANING THE LITTLE COLTS.

If you take the colts away out of sight of the dams in weaning, it
should be done in the morning, if there are several of them and it can
be done, two colts should be put together in box stalls. One will be
lonesome, two will be company and three is a crowd and trouble will
ensue.

HORSE SENSE. 137

LEAVE THE COLTS TWELVE HOURS BEFORE OFFERING
FEED OR DRL\K.

In the evening after the colts have been weaned in the morning
take some warm skim milk sweetened, and with a little in a shallow pan,
hold under the colt's nose and with a sudden movement of the pan up-
wards, dip its nose into the milk and take the pan away. Repeat this
several times, until the colt gets a taste of the milk and then it will
drink readily, as it is thirsty. Offer no water and if it will not take the
milk in the evening, wait until the next morning and there will be no
trouble, if it is done as before directed.

SKIM MILK FURTHER CONSIDERED.

In closing this subject of feeding the colts, it is important to add,
that the real value in cow's skim milk, for the little colts at weaning
time (afterwards, too) can scarcely be estimated. Cow's skim milk
(not whole milk), comes nearer the natural food of the dam than any
other we can furnish, and if given in moderate quantities daily, the
weanling colts will never shrink in their growth, and you will be sur-
prised to see how well they will grow and prefer the milk to any other
food. Milk is 87 per cent water, and if we depend too much on the
milk the colt will have to take so much of it that it will do no good.
While the milk is splended feed, we must depend on grain for the more
concentrated nutriment. They properly go together.

CHAPTER XXX.

DEVICES, MEANS AND METHODS FOR CONTROLLING
OUR HORSES.

For the want of a proper education when young, together with
the careless handling and abuse of our horses, they contract habits that
are both dangerous to themselves, their companions and those who'
handle them.
STUDY TO AVOID INCONVENIENCE AND PUNISHMENT.

It should be our purpose all through life to carefulljr study horses*
habits and the laws of their control, with the least possible inconveni-
ence and punishment, and we will be thoroughly convinced that the
simplest and most effective means of control, is through devices that
harmonize with the laws of their organization.

WE SHOULD NEVER BATTLE WITH OUR HORSES.
The horses' strength being superior to that of man, precludes, at
once, the idea that we should ever go to battle with him on anything
like equal grounds; in fact, we would discourage the idea of ever get-
ting into the fight with our horses, for this reason; since they are en-
dowed with the same passions as ourselves, such as resentment, courage,
revenge, etc., etc., we must banish the idea that our horses are "mere
brutes" to be yanked, kicked and pounded at will, without the remem-
brance of the event being stored up by them, for some opportunity when
they will have the best of us.

HORSES ENDOWED W^ITH INTELLIGENCE, SENTIMENT
AND PASSION.

Horses are not only endowed with passions, but intellect as well,
and just in proportion to this latter endowment, and their educational
advantages, is the true value of the horse.

WE ESTIMATE BOTH MEN AND HORSES. BY THEIR ABIL-
ITY AND EDUCATION.

We estimate men by their natural ability and education, then why
not apply the same rule to our horses? We have good and bad citizens,
and for the bad, we have made laws and prisons for their control, and
if we would correct the bad habits of our horses, we must use the means
with which to overcome their muscular power without injury, or arous-
ing their passion toward us, as is naturally engendered by whipping,
"yanking" and kicking. Let us so confine them that they have to

HORSE SENSE. 139

operate against themselves rather than us, and, the results will be much
more satisfactory than the usual methods of either indulgence or pun-
ishment.

THE USEFULNESS OF OUR HORSES DEPENDS ON THEIR
EARLY EDUCATION.

The usefulness of our horse is, to a marked degree, just what we
make it. We do not advise letting our horses control us by their su-
perior strength, neither. do we encourage the idea of conquering our
horses by punishment and abuse. The true principle of control of
horses for the best results, is by such means as will deprive them of
their power to oppose us, and our kind and humane treatment of them
whenever we are in close contact with them. Whenever we get our
horses into trouble, confinement or entanglement, it is far better to be
away from them during their efforts to liberate themselves, and, when
they find all efforts fruitless, then is the proper time to go to their
assistance, and relieve them of any entanglement or uncomfortable posi-
tion they may have got into in the struggle, bearing this one n^inciple
in mind strictly, we become masters of the situation, if our means and
methods are practically applied.

WE MUST ALWAYS BE SURE WE HAVE THE MEANS OF
CONTROL.

One point of great importance in the management of horses, is to
be sure we have the absolute means of control, without failure either of
principle, method or appliance, and when these are properly applied,
any except insane horses will readily become subservient to the reason-
able requests of man.

EDUCATION OF THE HORSE IN THE STALL.

It is a great satisfaction to any owner of a good horse to have him
understand and promptly comply with all requests while in the stall,
without excitement, irritation or annoyance. One of our first duties
is to show the horse what we want of him in the stall and how he
should comply. After tying him to the manger and getting out of the
stall, the next thing is to get back into the stall on either side without
his resenting or crowding us in the stall.

MANY COLTS SPOILED THE FIRST DAY IN THE STABLE.

Many a colt has been forever spoiled the first day he was in the
stable, by the treatment he has received in trying to get him to stand
over in the stall. It is usually commenced by trying to push him over
from side to side; but if we have not strength enought to overcome this,
then we are too apt to resort to the whip, fork-handle or club to ac-
complish the desired result, and by this last means frequently make a
bad actor in the stall forever.

140 HORSE SENSE.

HORSE REFUSING ADMISSION INTO THE STALL.

The first illustration (Fig. i, Cut No. 58), is designed to show not
only the position frequently taken by the horse in the stall, but the ex-
pression and dangerous action towards any one who may desire to enter.
He not only refuses to stand over, but indicates that he will kick if he
is interfered with.

Cut No. 58.

What is to be done? Shall we go at him with a club, to teach him
what we want him to do? Or shall we anticipate the difficulty, and bf
fore placing him in the stall provide the means of easy control, as shown?
in our illustration (Fig. 2, Cut No. 59)? This coiisists of a staple and
ring just over the manager (to which his halter should be tied) about as
high up on the side of the stall as his back. Another ring and staple at
the rear end of the stall partition (see letters A and B), then tie a rope
or strap into the ring of the nose band of the halter, pass it through
the ring A and back to the ring B, to which tie sufficiently long to en-
able the horse to eat along the entire length of the manger.

THE HORSE ADMITS ENTRANCE TO THE STALL WITHOUT
OBJECTION.
When we go to enter the stall, we should place our hand on him,
as represented in Fig. i, Cut No. 58, and if he refuses to stand over,
we reach forward as far as possible in the stall and grasp this side-rope
or strap and at the very instant we say "stand over" we must pull on
the rope, which will bring his nose to the side of the stall to which the
rope is attached, and by a slight push at the hind quarter he is forced
in the opposite position in the stall, and we can step in by his side with
perfect safety from kicking, fighting or crowding (see Fig. 2, Cut No.
59) and this followed up for a few days (often repeated) the horse

HOKSE SENSE.

141

readily stands over in the stall to the right whenever requested,, without
fear, excitement or resentment.

FigE

Cut No. sg.

EDUCATE THE HORSE ON ONE SIDE THEN ON THE
OTHER.

When he has fully learned what we want from one side of the stall,
then we should change the rope to the other side of the stall and pro-
ceed as before, and we are soon well paid for our trouble, in having a
horse that promptly responds to our every wish in standing over in the
stall.

SIMPLICITY OF METHOD MAKES IT WORTH TRYING.

This remedy for crowding in the stall is so simple and practical that
it is a surprise that any horfe is permitted to continue the habit. The
principle is, that when we pull the head up and to one side of the stall
it is perfectly natural and easy that the rear end must go to the oppo-
site side which gives room and safety to enter. We must not try to
whip to submission, but use the means that control the actions, treat
kindly, and success will crown our efforts, in the management of our
horses in the stable.

THE HALTER-PULLER.

This habit when once confirmed is quite difficult to entirely eradi-
cate. The first way to avoid this bad habit is proper education to the
halter when young.

THE CONFIRMED HALTER-PULLER CAN BE CURED.

When we have a confirmed halter-puller, in the stable or out of
doors, the best method is to take a rope ten or twelve feet long and
three-eighths to one-half inch in diameter, tie a knot in one end, then a
loop that will not slip, or a ring tied in the end will do as well. Place

142 HORSE SENSE.

this rope around the body of the horse just in front of the hips, with
the slip immediately under the body at the flank; then pass the rope
along under the body, between the fore legs, under the noseband of
the halter, then through the ring or hole of the manger or post to which
we want to hitch him and back to the ring of the head-stall, and tie so
as to give him about three feet between his head and the place to where
he is hitched — all as shown in Figures 3 and 4, Cuts No. 60 and 61.
Whatever he is afraid of may now be brought in front of him, and in-
stead of waiting to see how hard he will pull, we start for him and don't
stop until we reach the point to where he is hitched, at which time, nine
times in ten he will be there to meet us; as he will only pull while one
breath lasts him, when he must come forward for relief.

Fig 5

^^:;^

Cut No. 60.
HALTER-PULLER HITCHED AT BOTH ENDS.

Illustration (Fig. 3, Cut No. 60), shows him doing his utmost tvj
break lose, but being hitched at both ends of his body and the pull equal
at front and rear, he suddenly leaps forward to relieve the pressure at
the rear end and appears a shown in Fig. 4. Cut No. 61, with an entire
change of expression and demeanor. He may try it two or three times,
always with the same results.

A MERE STRING WILL BE SUFFICIENT TO HOLD THE
HORSE.

The horse may now be tied with a halter-strap that will break at
only a moderate pull, with the rope from his body secured to the hitch-
ing post or manger, so that the pull on his head comes first, and when
the halter strap breaks he comes suddenly into the hitch around his
body, which so surprises him that, in a few days, by hitching with a still
weaker and weaker tie-strap, he cannot be induced to pull enough to
break a mere string. The hitch around his body should not be neg-
lected for quite a time, so that if he should pull back and break loose,
and get away, he has intelligence enough to know when the rope is
around his body and when it is not.

HORSE SENSE.

143

HALTER-PULLER SURPRISED FROM THE EFFECT OF THE
REAR HITCH.

Fie- 4

Cut No. 6i.
We must not hurt him, nor should we give way for him when he
pulls; but rather follow him up to show him that he cannot get away
from his object of fright, which soon convinces him that his efforts are
fruitless.

KICKING AND PAWING IN THE STALL.

This is a very disagreeable habit, and unless the proper means are
used at the outset it is also quite difficult to break up with a hope of
permanent cure. It can be prevented at any time; and as soon as the
horse commences kicking the side of the stall or his stall companion, he
should be shackled at the hind legs as shown in Fig. 5. Cut No. 62.

Fig 5

Cut No. 62.
THE HORSE SHACKLED IN HIS STALL.

144 HORSE SENSE.

This is done with a good, strong strap buckled around each hind
leg above the ankle joints, with a coupling strap between, as shown in
Cut. No. 62 and will effectually prevent it, and if persevered in its use
will usually cure the habit. This is better than a short chain.

Pawing is prevented by shackling the front legs in the same manner
as shown also in Fig. 5. Cut No. 62.

How frequently we see a pair of sharp shod horses put into a stall to-
gether and very soon find one, or both, so badly cut from kicking as
to render them unserviceable. Now, this could be prevented by shackles
on the hind legs of both, and still giving them sut^cient liberty to step
about the stall or lie down and get up. It is best, however, to first put
the shackles on for once or twice before getting sharp shod to get them
used to them and to prevent calking themselves. Many a valuable young
horse has been ruined in the hind legs from kicking the stall, generally
acquiring the habit for the want of exercise. He has no chance to exer-
cise, consequently he goes to kicking the stall until it becomes a con-
firmed habit. Pawing in the stall results generally from the same cause.
The shackles are very effectual with no danger after the first few minutes,
and then only from self-calking. A trial will convince the most skeptical.
This is a wonderful remedy for wilfully vicious horses, as it renders them
perfectly harmless, like the handcuffed and shackled prisoner. We
should treat these horses kindly but firmly and go about them with per-
fect indifference, which we can do, under the circumstances.

REMEMBER THE NATURAL LAW OF FORWARD AND BACK-
WARD MOVEMENTS.

Right here, we want to say to our readers that there is a principle
with horses, that whatever happens at the front part of their bodies im-
pels them backward, and at the rear part induces them to move for-
ward, and with this ever in mind it will greatly aid us in all dealings
with our horses.

, EDUCATING THE HORSE TO BACK.

Almost everybody endeavors to educate their horses to back by
pulling on the reins, and in the majority of cases they are successful;
but there are many horses that do not understand what is wanted of
them when in harness and become sullen, and then it is almost an im-
possibility to force them backwards by the bits.
DON'T FIURT THE HORSE'S MOUTH TO GET HIM TO BACK.

A very simple and effectual method is to stand in front of the horse
and, by only a gentle pressure on the bit with one hand, and a push with
the extended fingers of the other hand between the point of the shoulder
and breast-bone, he will readily go backward as shown in Fig. 9. Cut No.

THE HORSE BACKS IN COMPLIANCE WITH NATURAL
LAW.
In giving this lesson we should always associate the pressure of the
fingers with the word "back," and in a very few minutes the horse rea-

HORSE SENSE.

145

lizes our wants and moves backward at the word alone. If we have a
sluggish or sullen horse a piece of wood (not sharp) may be used to ad-
vantage instead of the fingers, but usually the fingers alone are suf-
ficient. Don't make the lesson very long, at first, and by the third or
fourth trial the horse will respond to the word, together with gentle pres-
sure on the bit.

Cut No. 63.

DON'T PUNISH THE HORSE TO BACK, AS BACKING IS AN
ART.

It is altogether wrong to "jerk" or "see-saw" the bit through the
mouth to get the horse to back, when one, two or three lessons, as in-
dicated, will make a willing servant in backing the horse without punish-
ment or excitement. With the horse, backing is an art, and must be
cultivated with great patience to make a complete success.

When we consider the horse in harness, cramped at the mouth with
the bit and at the rear by a breechen and then asked to back a load, for
the first time, is it at all surprising that he gets confused and don't know
what to do? Add to the punishment at the mouth with the bit, that of
the whip and what can we expect him to do, but go up into the air and
throw himself?

CHAPTER XXXI.

CONTROLLING THE ACTIONS OF THE HORSE BY HIS
TAIL.

There are other uses for a horse's tail than to brush off the flies.
In our hands it becomes a great medium for controlling the actions of
the horse. Experience with plains' horses is, that there is no other
means by which we can accomplish so much in so short a time, as by
hitching the subject's head to his own tail so close that he is obliged to
gyrate or whirl around in a very small compass. Yes, but the natural
query comes to almost everybody, how are we to accomplish this con-
nection of head and tail without danger of getting hurt? The answer
is, that it is best done the very first time he is ever caught with the
lasso, and then he should never again have his liberty until he is thor-
oughly acquainted with his controller, man. This thing of catching the
wild horse and then letting him go again and again, soon educates him
to have a dread fear of man; besides, he is very apt to! learn how to
evade the fatal noose, which only serves to make him the more danger-
ous whenever anything out of the ordinary routine of his experience
transpires.

LET THE HORSE RUN AWAY IN A CIRCLE.

When he is lassoed and thrown is just the time to put the halter
on his head and secure it to his tail before letting him up. Then, with
a long, limber pole, something like a fishing-rod, we begin his educa-
tion. See Cut No. 66. He has the use of his legs — his means of escape
and defense — and at our approach and the touch of the pole he attempts
to get away by flight; but his run away is only in a small circle, and,
notwithstanding he exerts himself to the utmost of his ability, he does
not succeed in getting away from the touch of the pole. If he attempts
to kick or strike at the pole he is almost certain to fall, which, of itself
is an admonition that he had better not repeat that action.

POLING THE HORSE A GREAT FEATURE IF WELL DONE.

This whirling motion requires but a very few minutes to render him
so dizzy he must either stOp or fall, and he generally prefers the former;
but in either case, when he stops is the time we should bring it in con-
tact with every part of his body — as advised with the young colt and like
the use of the hand in our first visit to him when he is but one hour or
one day old — and as soon as the wild horse finds that the pole does not
hurt him, and he has done his very best to get away from it and failed.

HORSE SENSE. 147

he becomes more docile, and \vc may now be able to get near enough
to him to touch him with the hand. But it is far better to use articles
of clothing, such as an old vest, a pair of pants, a coat or a hat securely
fastened to shorter poles, and show him that he cannot get away from
any of these. We will very soon find that he makes less and less ex-
ertion at each attempt with new objects until finally we get our hands
on him.

WITHOUT MISTAKES. HALF AN HOUR IS AS GOOD AS
THREE MONTHS.

If we make no mistakes, in half an hour we have accomplished more
in satisfying the wild horse that his attempts to get away from man are
fruitless, than would be accomplished in three months by the ordinary
process of "breaking," and no danger to horse or man of a serious char-
acter.

A SUCCESSFUL METHOD OF FASTENING THE TIE-STRAP
INTO THE TAIL.

The successful manner of tying the halter-strap or rope to the tail,
is so important that we have made illustrations to show to a certainty
just how it should be done for convenience and security. We puzzled
our brain more than thirty-five years ago to evolve this knot, or manner
of tying, for this purpose. See cuts No. 64 and 65.

Fig 7

Cut No. 64.
MANNER OF TYING THE HALTER STRAP TO THE TAIL.

Of course there are a number of methods, but this is conceded the
best, easiest, surest and safest, and is the one we have used for many,
many years.

MEASURE THE DISTANCE FROM END OF TAIL-BONE TO
GIRTH-PLACE.

A tie-strap with a snap attachment to the head stall of the halter is
preferable. Detach the tie-strap from the head-stall, then grasp all the

148

HORSE SENSE.

hair of the tail just below the termination of the tail-bone, pull the tail
around to the side of the horse and lay the strap across the tail with the
snap-end just about where the girth or sursingle should encircle the body
as shown in Fig. 7, Cut No. 64. Alark the strap as shown by the arrow,
so as to preserve this proper length; then turn all the hair of the tail
back towards the body and hold with the left hand, while we reach under
and bring the other or tapering end of the strap around the tail, and

READY TO TIE KNOT IN THE TAIL WITH THE HALTER
STRAP.

tuck under as shown in Fig. 8, Cut No. 65. This is a knot that is very
easily tied, perfectly secure, and instantly untied by pulling on the pen-
dant end of the strap, and we also have hold of the horse by the head at
the same time when thus untied.

Fig. 8

•*i^^.4^^■•'A:^^'^^^;

Cut No. 65.

THE HORSE READY TO HAVE HIS HEAD AND TAIL
HITCHED TOGETHER.

When we have the knot tied and the strap of the proper length to
attach to the halter, we are ready for active operations. '

It is always best to select some place free from stones, posts or other
objects of injury, and then suddenly bring the horse's head far enough
around to his side to attach the snap to the ring of the halter and let
him go. Then, with the long, slender pole, we can approach him near
enough so that the legs of the horse come in contact with the pole at
every turn, as shown in Fig. 9, Cut No. 66.

MAKING THE HORSE FAMILIAR WITH OTHER OBJECTS.

After he becomes familiar with the pole, then we bring other ob-
jects of all kinds to him until he no longer exerts himself to get away,
and then we should begin handling his legs on the side to which his

HORSE SENSE.

149

head is inclined: first, by the use oi a soft strap, he will allow us lo lift
his fore and hind leg then with the hand.

Fie,. 9

Cut No. 66.
POLING THE WILD OR NERVOUS HORSE.
If the horse is a sensitive, touchy, wild fellow, he will make desper-
ate exertions to get away from the pole, but if we attend to business and
follow him up, he does all the work and we look calmly on until he stops
or falls, when we try to touch all parts of his body without hurting him
with the pole.

TURN THE HORSE THE OTHER DIRECTION.

It is often good practice to unsnap from that side securing his head
and tail to the opposite side and see if he will try to run the other way,
(which he may a little), then handle the legs of that side to which the
head is inclined.

FIG 10

Cut No. e?.
WESTERN OR WILD HORSES.

150 HORSE SENSE.

If he is a western or wild horse that we will have difficulty in catching
we should put shackles on all the legs as shown in Fig. 5. Cut No. 62,
and Fig. 10, Cut No. (>T, and instead of giving him his entire liberty of
head, we have a ring or loop tied in his tail through which we run the
strap of the halter and attach a long rope, as seen in Fig. 10, Cut No. 67-

SHACKLING THE HORSE ALL AROUND AND FEEDING
FROM THE HAND.

If at any time when we wish to approach him and he tries to get
away, we have only to pick up the rope, and by pulling on it, we are able
instantly to bring his head and tail together as shown in Fig. 11, Cut
No. 68.

f^'G H

Cut No. 68.
THE WILD HORSE CORRALLED, HELPLESS ANR HARM-
LESS.

If the shackled horse does not stop when we pick up the rope he
will wind himself up and becomes perfectly helpless, so we can go to
him without danger of being hurt. We should continue going to him
and handling him, watering and feeding him from the hand, caressing
him, showing him new objects, etc., etc., until he seems pleased with our
visits. Then we may lengthen the shackles out until Tie has more or
less use of his legs, and then we should begin his education of fol-
lowing us, backing, the word "whoa," harnessing him, etc., when he
will soon become a valuable horse, if he is endowed with a fair share of
intelligence.

ALL THE HORSE'S LEGS TIED TOGETHER WITHOUT PAIN
OR DISCOMFORT.

Heretofore we have been depriving the horse of the use of his legs
by degrees and controlling him more or less through the medium of the
halter with head and tail. But now, with simply the addition of a strong
coupling strap or rope between the front and hind legs just short enough
to keep the legs all under the body, so as to neither hamper or give lib-

HORSE SENSE.

151

erty of action and we can remove all other attachments and familiarize
ourselves, families, neighbors and friends with the young or aged ani-
mal, as seen in cut No. 69.

Cut No. 69.

EVERYBODY GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE HORSE

AND HE WITH EVERYBODY.

Notwithstanding the subject of our sketch is anxiously looking to-
wards the herd that he was but recently a member of, he is now seem-
ingly contented with the new situation, unhampered in any way except
that he is deprived of the use of his legs. While he is unable to go any-
where he has learned that he is not to be hurt in any way. The children,
lady with umbrella and men now are to be treated with indifference by
him. as he knows they mean no harm. In this condition all kinds of
objects can be brought to him and he can be made acquainted with any-
thing desired by his owner or handler, but this one thing must be en-
forced on the mind of every one coming in contact with him; that
he is not to be hurt or suddenly frightened under any circumstances.

NATIVE NEW ZELANDER'S METHOD VERY CRUDE BUT
ABOUT THE SAME.

The native New Zelander drives the subject to be handled into the
mire and while in a helpless condition they make themselves familiar
with the horse from every quarter. Men, women and children ride the
wild horse from ears to tail. They bring all kinds of objects to the horse
for his inspection, but they never give him pain and by the time they
have helped him from the quagmire the horse realizes that they are his
friends instead of enemies, and they make very reliable animals.

HAVE THE EDGES OF THE SHACKLE-STRAPS ROUNDED.

It must not be forgotten that the shackle-straps must be made very

strong and have the edges nicely rounded or lined witli lamb's wool to

152 HORSE SENSK.

prevent chafing. The coupling straps for the front and hind leg shackles
should be kepi about the same length.

NO LIBERTY FOR THE WILD HORSE UNTIL FULLY EDU-
CATED.

If the reader has followed us closely, with frequent reference to the
cuts, he can at once see that these appliances are founded on right prin-
ciples and lead to the ends to be attained in the control of the wild horse
without injury to horse or man. We should never let the wild horse get
away from us or have' the chance to take the advantage of us in any
particular, from the first time we come in contact with him until he has
full confidence in us; neither should we ever hurt him when in immedi-
ate contact with him, if we expect him to have confidence in us.

CHAPTER XXXII.

NOVEL, BUT PRACTICAL METHOD OF HITCHING OR PICK-
ETING HORSES, ETC., ETC.

On our large prairies we can not readily find a post or object to
which we can tic or hitch our horses. We have all tried various meth-
ods, but the one shown in illustration (Fig. 12. Cut No. 70), is as con-
venient and practical as any, where we have two horses. Use halters or
bridles.

^ Fig. 12.

/«-.

Cut No. 70.
PAIR OF HORSES HITCHED HEADS AND TAILS.

The illustration speaks for itself and consists only in tying each
horse to the other's tail, just sufficiently long to enable them to get their
heads to the ground when we want them to graze, and when we need
them they can be found not far from the very spot where we left them,
as each one must follow the other in a circle. The knots in the tails
are tied just the same as the one just mentioned, except that the tie-
strap or rope is wound around the tail several times before being tucked
under to finish the knot; so that the spring'^^f the hair in the tail will
not render it loose and become untied. If several turns are made and
drawn down tight, there is no danger of their becoming untied.

This is a safer manner of picketing horses than a stake and rope.
This is an excellent method to educate little colts to the halter if they are
tied short. They soon learn to follow the halter.

154 HORSE SENSE.

PICKETING OR LEAVING THE SINGLE HORSE.

We are often asked for a method of hitching the single horse on
the prairie and be able to find him on our return, and here it is. The il-
lustration speaks for itself. Tell me, please, how far the horse will get
from where he is left, and yet he can eat grass and move around over
quite a space (backwardly) in half a day, but cannot go forwards. This
is a very convenient method of grazing the lawn or feeding to grass
■where there are no fences for holding the horse. See Cut No. 71.

THE SINGLE HORSE HITCHED TO HIMSELF ON THE PRA-
IRIE OR LAWN.

Cut No. 71.

<;UNNY-SACK OR MATTING AND HALTER WILL KEEP THE
SINGLE HORSE.

Take a piece of strong matting four feet long and one foot wide,
with a hole cut in the center of the matting so as to put in a ring, or
tie the halter through this opening, and we have a better method of
learning a horse to stand without hitching than by a weight.

It is better to put shackles on the front legs, as shown in cut No. 70
<a strap around each leg above the ankle and a cross strap) to keep the
matting immediately under the horse at all times; yet in many cases it
is just as effectual without this, as with it. Good strong "gunny" sack
will answer as well as anything for the matting. This is simple but ef-
fectual in practice. The horse is practically tied to himself and yet he is
not seriously hampered. See Cut No. 71.

CONTROLLING THE HIND FEET OF THE HORSE IN SHOE-
ING.

So many people have trouble in handling the hind legs of horses,
in caring for the feet, shoeing, etc., that it is best to give an illustration
and a little advice in the manner and method of doing it easily.

We should first take a strap or rope 8 or 10 feet long and lay it
across the tail, as seen in Fi^ 7 Cut No. 64.

HORSE SENSE.

155

INDUCING THE HORSK TO HOLD HIS HIND LEG UP.
Tie a similar knot as in picketing the pair of horses, (see cut No.
70), with one end of the rope; then slip on iron ring on the rope and
tie as near to the knot of the tail as possible and secure it there on the
rope. Ne.xt let the rope drop to the ground: then buckle a short strap
around and pastern and over the rope; pass the rope back up through
the ring at tJie tail and an assistant can hold the hind foot up with ease
in spite of the horse's efforts, by pulling on the rope.

Fig 13

Cut No. 72.

If you are alone you can tie the horse to a post, and after pulling-
the foot up with the rope and he has ceased to struggle, you can tie
the rope to the ring by a half hitch and the horse must hold his own
foot up, and you can operate on it as you like.

POSITIONS OF THE HORSE AND ATTENDANT AT THE
SHOEING SHOP.

The consequent troubles of many horses at the shoeing shop calls
for a few suggestions to reduce to the minimum the sufferings of the
horse, the danger to the smith and the conduct of the attendant.

Too many people take their horses to the shoeing shop and go
away and leave them in the hands of strangers and expect to return
and find the work done in the best possible manner. This is in many
cases almost an impossibility. It is about as important that the horse
is taken care of by an attendant, as by the smith.

THE POSITION OF THE ATTENDANT ON THE SAME SIDE
AS THE SMITH.

The position in which the horse is made to stand while being shod
or having his feet cared for, is of more importance than the majority
of people or smiths ever think of.

Usually, when horses' feet are being handled, and especially while
young, they should always be controlled by an attendant holding the

156

HORSE SENSE.

horse's head. Now, the attendant's position in relation to that of the
horse is of the utmost importance.

Fig14

Cut No. 7z.

ATTENDANT NEARLY ALWAYS ON OPPOSITE SIDE FROM

SMITH.

Almost invariably we see the attendant standing on the opposite
side of the horse from the operator, and generally with the horse's
head inclined towards him as seen in cut No. ^2)^ and the result is, the
weight of the horse (to a degree at least) is thrown on the man holding
the foot as also seen in same cut.

Fig 1^

Cut No. 74.

ATTENDANT AND SMITH ON SAME SIDE— PROPER PLACE.

The reader may, at first sight, think this frivolous to some degree,
but if it is once tested with care, it will ever after be practised, as the
results show for themselves.

HOKSE vSENSE. 157

ATTENDANT STANDING ON OPPOSITE SIDE FROM THE
SMITH.

When the attendant takes his position on the opposite side from
the smith, any struggle that the horse makes will naturally be towards
the smith; besides, if the horse's head is inclined from the smith, it
as naturally throws more weight on the smith than if the head was
turned to the same side, and renders his position necessarily more
or less dangerous; but if the attendant will always stand on the same
side as the operator and incline the horse's head a little to the same
side, the operator is relieved of the bearing down of the horse, as that
inclines the weight on the opposite legs as seen in cut No. 74. Besides
the easy position thus obtained, there is little or no danger in the
horse's struggles, as they will be away from the operator instead of
towards him.

COMPLETE SUCCESS DEPENDENT ON ATTENTION TO
DETAILS.

The details of any department of animal husbandry goes to make
up the sum total of success, and while we have in the last two chap-
ters only dealt with a few of the many conditions to be solved, a
careful study and practice of these will be preparatory to meeting
other contingencies, the sole object of which is to render our horses
of more service to us, by showing our fellow men some of the details
of the methods, horse sense and true horse education, resulting from
long experience.

WE MUST CONDUCT OURSELVES IN HARMONY WITH THE
CIRCUMSTANCES.

We must ever take matters as we find them, and conduct ourselves
according to circumstances and conditions. If we will commence the
proper education of our horses when they are very young, we will find
the same results as with our children who have the proper training in
their youth — no trouble in after life, if naturally well disposed; but if
we let our horses run wild until they have attained their mature growth,
we must certainly use such means and methods (without violence) as
win -"ositively demonstrate to them that we are masters of the situa-
tion, yet merciful to the end.

OUR EDUCATION WAS NOT ACQUIRED IN A DAY. NOR IS
THAT OF THE HORSE.

We did not obtain our education in a day, week, month or year;
then why expect the horse to understand all that is needed of him in the
unreasonably short period that is ordinarily required? Because we have
herein indicated, as well as shown, the means for the control of our
horses, we sincerely hope none of the readers of this book will look
upon it as a means of revenge for some of the actions of their horses
and severely punish them, simply because advantages can be so readily
taken of them. The whole principle is to avoid danger and trouble
with our horses, rather than the correction of acquired bad habits.
Let us commence right, ever keep right, and we will always be right.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

MEANS, METHODS AND PRINCIPLES OF HANDLING MA-
TURE HORSES.

The author confesses that he has more or less misgivings in the
preparation of this chapter than any of the others, particularly in rela-
tion to the means and methods to be used in controlling our horses,
when in the hands of the unobserving, impetuous and passionate "hoss-
men."

AS MUCH VIRTUE IN METHODS AS THE MEANS WITH OUR
HORSES.

While he will endeavor to impress upon the mind of every reader
the fact that there is fully as much virtue in the methods as the means
used, he is quite certain too many will adopt the means of control (as
the key of success), and ignore the methods (manner of using the ap-
pliances) and then, failing in the desired results, will condemn the
author.

THESE MEANS AND METHODS ARE PROVEN BY EX-
PERIENCE AND PRACTICE.

The means and methods herein given, have often been used by
the author and found the most valuable of any he has tried. They are
not a mere theory, but principles established upon experience. The
author has, in the preceding chapters, tried to impress upon the minds
of his readers the importance of complying with the simple laws gov-
erning our animals, and he cannot do justice to our noble servant —
the horse — without referring briefly to them again, and, possibly, in
a manner that will make it more impressive, embracing the priniples
and laws.

NATURAL LAWS GOVERNING THE ACTIONS OF OUR
HORSES.

The pivotal point which determines the action of the horse is the
center of his body, and when this is thoroughly understood, very many
of the mysteries concerning why horses act as they do is easily under-
stood. Whatever we do with the horse, should always be in harmony
with these laws.

1st. Whatever transpires at the front of the horse impels him
backward.

2nd. Whatever takes place at the rear of the horse, inclines for-
ward action.

HORSE SENSE. 159

3rd. All side motions affect in like manner — in opposite direction.
4th. In all of our operations with the horse, it should be our high-
est aim to avoid giving him pain when in close contact with him.

5th. Whenever he becomes entangled by accident, or we do it pur-
poselj', we should stay away from him until he reali^s his utter help-
lessness to free himself, then go to his assistance and kindly relieve
him, when he will appreciate us, and readily becom.e our willing ser-
vant. But if, by entanglement, we abuse him for it, then, whenever he
finds himself encumbered in any way, he naturally goes to work to
free himself and gets away from his handler — making a dangerous horse,
instead of what he should be — kind and gentle.

6th. We should endeavor to control our horses by m.eans and
methods that will demonstrate to them that we are the stronger (through
the means used), but associated with kindness whenever in close con-
tact with them.

7th. In connection with the means to demonstrate our superior
power over the horse, we should never forget that the medium of the
stomach is the most direct road to his affections — consequently, not-
withstanding, we may lay him down, deprive him of the use of his
legs, etc., we should feed him sugar, sweet apples, cookies, or what-
ever he relishes from our hand, and it is astonishing, to the masses,
how soon the wild or even vicious horse is as docile as a lamb.

8th. The reader will observe that the means set forth, in Horse
Sense, is not intended to injure the horse in any way, but to enable
his handler to demonstrate his superior muscular power (through these
means) over that of the horse without any manifestation of anger
on the part of the handler.

9th. We should at all times keep the horse cool and quiet, and en-
deavor to show him kindly what is expected of him, rather than to try-
to force him to do what he does not understand.

loth. We should always make the lessons short and impressive,
and never try to progress faster than the horse fully understands what
we want of him.

Note: To reassure the reader that we are correct in this matter,
we have to only remind him that, if a horse gets his head fast any-
where, he goes backward to get loose. If he gets his front foot over
any obstruction if not more than one foot high, and feels the pressure
on the underside of his leg, he instinctively goes backward for relief.
When he gets his hind foot fast, he goes forward to free himself. Fasten
a tin can to his tail, and like the dog in the same condition, he goes
forward as fast as he can. If the horse undertakes to go through a
narrow passage, like a narrow door or between two posts, and he is
pressed on both sides at the swell of his body back of the middle, he
goes on through if it knocks his hips down. Whoever "broke" a colt
to the halter but knew, before putting the halter on the colt's head,
when he began to pull at the halter, that tn'<; colt wou\d go backwards
for relief, but what proportion of fnankind ever stopped and thought
what made the colt go that way invai'^'olr.'' Tne colt thinks he has bis

160

HORSE SENSE.

head into some kind of a trap, and by the law of his nature he must
go backwards for relief. Blindfold the colt and he will stand, gener-
ally.

Then let us observe these natural laws in all we do with our horses
and we will hav.e far less trouble than when we are working directly
against these laws, as is too often the case.

HANDLING THE HORSE BY THE HEAD.

As most of our horses are controlled, through the medium of the
mouth, it will be best to begin our illustrated part, of chapter xxxv, with
easy and effective means and methods of controlling the horse through
the mouth. We should be decidedly opposed to the use of harsh bits,
which lacerate and mutilate the sensitive mouth of the horse, by and
through which we communicate our very thoughts, to this noble animal,
through the medium of the reins. For many reasons, we should all begin
our education of the horse through the medium of the mouth, with a
small (comparatively soft) rope, instead of iron bits. It is much more
effective, will not bruise the soft, sensitive tissues and by its binding char-
acter, in which it is applied, makes our work more readily appreciated by
the horse. For instance, when we pull on the rope, it binds in the mouth,

Cut No. 75-
SAFETY (OR STALLION; BRIDLE, FIRST FORM AND POSI-
TION.

HORSE SENSE.

161

and does not let go until tiie horse comes to us or we go to him and
loosen it, which is at once appreciated by the horse, and makes us looked
upon as a friend in need and not an enemy.

STALLION OR SAFETY BRIDLE.

It is well to take about twenty feet of one-fourth inch manilla rope,
with which we can make a better stallion bridle than is generally used of
any other character.

MANNER OF ADJUSTING THE STALLION OR
SAFETY BRIDLE.

We should first throw one end of the rope over the neck of the horse,
with the left hand; reach under the neck with the right hand, and grasp
the end of the rope, and tie a bow — bowline knot (see Cut No. 3^), quite
snug to the neck, (but not really tight or too close), now pass the left
hand under this part around the neck, and draw through enough rope to
go in the mouth, as shown in Cut No. 75.

Cut No. 76.
SAFETY (OR STALLION) BRIDLE, SECOND FORM AND PO-
SITION.

We should next stand with our face toward the rear of the horse, tak-
ing the rope in the right hand about one foot from the neck of the horse,
then reaching over the rope with the left hand, take hold of the rope

162 HORSE SENSE.

v/ith the back of the hand up and forward, as seen in Cut No. 75. We
must now pass this rope, as held in this way, over the horses head bring-
ing the right hand to the base of the ear and left hand down under the
neck as seen in Cut No. 76.

FINISHING THE ADJUSTMENT OF THE SAFETY BRIDLE.

Now we should change hands, taking hold of the rope with the right
hand where held by the left and open the mouth of the horse by pressing
the soft end of the finger, or thumb of the left hand, against the roof of
the horse's mouth, when he will readily open the mouth and we pass the
rope through the mouth, and, changing hands again, taking hold of the
rope, just at the left side of the mouth, with the left hand; then pull on'
the long part of the rope, with the right hand, to adapt the rope to head,
and we have the most effective bridle for the control of strong, vicious
horses, or biting stallions, to be found. See Cut No. 35, fig. 3.

THE HORSE IS PREVENTED FROM BITING WITH THE
SAFETY BRIDLE.

By pulling on this rope, only moderately, the cheeks of the horse are
forced between the molar teeth, so that it is impossible for him to close
his mouth, and bite, even though we put our hand into his mouth, and
hold it there, if we keep the rope tight.

METHOD OF USING THE SAFETY BRIDLE.

When we have it snugly applied to the head of the horse, (not loose-
ly), we should permit him to run away from us, the length of the rope,
and with a sudden pull, pivot him on his hind feet, or stop him. He is
willing to stop, no matter how well he feels, for he finds that his head and
mouth are in a vice, as it were, with, apparently, no relief.

GETTING THE HORSE INTO TROUBLE WHEN AWAY AND
RELIEF WHEN NEAR HIM.

Now, if he does not come to us, we should go to him, pat him
caressingly on the cheek, and gently loosen the rope in his mouth. He
is now free again, and, possibly, may be so reckless as to try it again,
with the same results. We should do as before, three or four times if
necessary, when he fully realizes that he had better not get to the full
length of the rope away from us, or if he does the rope binds his mouth
as before.

GIVE RELIEF WHENEVER THE MOUTH IS CRAMPED
BY ROPE.

But if the horse will come to us, we never must disappoint him in
relief and kind attentions when in close contact with him, which insures
his confidence in us, that no matter what troubles he encounters, he is
assured we will help him out of the difficulty.

Now a full description has been given of the method of applying the
safety handling bridle, so that the reader can readily comprehend the
principle of handling vicious horses without serious abuse or danger.

HORSE SENSE. 163

The horse is a very apt scholar, to learn either good or evil, and it is for
us to direct him aright, as he never forgets what he has fully learned.
A CHEAP AND VERY EFFECTIVE RIDING BRIDLE.

Cut No. "jy.
THE HORSE FRIGHTENED AT THE SIGHT OF THE UM-
BRELLA.

^^■^':::s

MPJA JC^^- Cfr

Cut No. 78.
HANDLING THE UMBRELLA ON HORSEBACK.

Remember the law, as previously referred to, that whatever happens
at, or toward, the rear of the horse, impels him forward, as well as that

164

HORSE SENSE.

which happens in front of him, forces him backward. It is well illustrated
in cuts No. 78 and 79, in handling an umbrella on horseback. When
the umbrella is back of the center of his body, and he takes fright, he
naturally tries to run, but by bringing the umbrella over his head, as
seen in cut No. 79, he stops instantly, and reverses his action so suddenly,
that we must be on our guard, or we will go over his head.

A GOOD, CHEAP RIDING BRIDLE.

It consists of a piece of quarter inch manilla, or cotton rope, from
six to eight feet long. By placing the middle part on top of the horses
head, drawing down on either side of the face and passing through the
mouth from each side, up on top of the neck, and, tying a knot at the
withers to keep froni dropping out of the mouth, we have a good riding
bridle, as illustrated in Cut No. ']T, down in front of the horse as well as
applied to his head.

Cut No. 79.
BLINDING THE HORSE WITH AN UMBRELLA.

Now, how much better it is to understand this law, and hold on to
the umbrella, until the horse finds he cannot get away from it, than to
throw it away at first fright, and ever after incline him to run away from
every object he is afraid of.

We must not get in a hurry in the education of our horses, if we
would have them fully understand our meaning in all we do with them.
"Hurry often makes waste," and mistakes with the horse are very difficult
to correct.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

POWER OF MAN OVER THE HORSE.
Whenever we find the horse does not feel disposed to give us his un-
divided atttention, with the apphcation of the safety bridle, and its asso-
ciate treatment, then we should proceed to demonstrate to him our su-
perior strength, through the means we use, together with very kind
treatment.
LAYING THE HORSE DOWN— AND MEANS OF DOING IT.

There is probably nothing we ever do to the horse that is quite so as-
suring to him of our superior power, like that of laying him down and
putting him in a perfectly helpless condition and at the same time, treat-
ing him with the greatest kindness.

MAKING A CIRCINGLE AND CRUPPER WITH ONE PIECE
OF ROPE.

We first take about fifteen feet of three-eighth inch rope, double it
at about one-third its length, and slip a two-inch iron ring over this
doubled portion, and tie a knot in the double rope, so as to hold the ring
in such position, that the doubled end will make a crupper and back piece
the required length, to have the ring rest at the point of the back, where
the saddle of the harness should be. The remaining portion of the rope
forms a circingle as seen in cuts No. 80 and 81.

A casting harness may be made of leather consisting of strong cir-
cingle, back strap and crupper to suit the taste.

Cut No. 80.
CRUPPER AND CIRCINGLE MADE OF ONE PIECE OF ROPE.
When the circingle and crupper is adjusted, we should take a fourth-
inch rope, twenty or thirty feet long, pass one end through the ring on
the back, pass it along the right side of the neck of the horse, through

166

HORSE SENSE.

the ring of the halter, and back to the ring referred to on the back, and
tie securely. Next we should take the hold-back or side strap to a sin-
gle harness, or a good ham-strap will answer, pass it around the pastern
of the left front leg, passing through the keeper, so that the buckle will
be on the outside of the leg when the strap is pulled backward. Then
we must lift up the left front foot of the horse, run the strap under the
circingle, with the hair, and buckle up quickly and short, as seen in cut
No. 8i. As soon as the leg is securely fastened, we should let the horse
have his liberty to about the length of the rope, when he is apt to be halt-
ed, as seen in cut No. 82.

Cut No. 81.
THE HORSE ALREADY TO BE LAID DOWN.

OBSERVE THE METHODS AS WELL AS THE MEANS; THEY
GO TOGETHER.

We should not try to throw the horse down at once but allow him to
hobble around on three legs, until he gets tired, being sure to keep at a
•distance from him all the time, letting him realize that he is in trouble —
that he is a cripple. By keeping his head inclined to one side, with slight
tension on the small rope, he will soon get tired, and drop on his knees,
when his head should be pulled to his side, as seen in cut No. 83, con-
tinue to stay away from the horse and, holding him in this uncomforta-
ble position until he falls over on his side, when we must pull hard

HORSE SENSE.

167

enough on the small rope to bring his nose to the ring on his back as
seen in cut No. 84.

If the reader does not believe this is an uncomfortable position, let
him try to look back over his sliouldor one minute by the watch and
see how his neck will ache. After the horse has lain in this position one

half minute to a minute, he will make a desperate struggle to rise but if
the small rope is kept tight it is impossible for him to get up. Just as
soon as the struggle is over we should approach him, (keeping the hand
rope tight), caress him on the head and neck and begin relaxing on the
hand rope until he is stretched out on the ground in an easy position as
seen in cut No. 85.

168 HORSE SENSE.

If the horse fails to appreciate the comfortable position we have given
him, and attempts to get up, we must spring away from him and again
get him into that same uncomfortable position by pulling on the hand
rope as before. See cut No. 83. Now we will hold him in this very un-
comfortable position again a short time, to let him know that we are
away from him and he is unable to extricate himself. If he struggles

again, we must do as before; but if he submits without a struggle, we
should never keep him long in this position, but go to him and relieve
him as before. By the second or third round of trial to get up, he fully
comprehends that when we are in close contact with him, he is relieved
of his troubles; also, that when he attempts to rise we are suddenly gone,
and he is at once in that same uncomfortable position again.

HORSE SENSE.

169

PUNISHMENT DEFEATS THE VERY OBJECT AIMED AT.
As soon as the horse discovers that we do not mean to hurt him, and
that whenever he is in serious trouble we come to his relief, he, very
naturally, has confidence in us. and cares but little what we do to him, or
with him, that does not give him pain.

Cut No. 84.
THE HORSE ON HIS SIDE AND IN GREATER TROUBLE.

'^^^:

.C'

Cut No. 85.
THE HORSE IN A COMFORTABLE POSITION.

170

HORSE SENSE.

WHEN DOWN A GOOD TIME TO GET ACQUAINTED WITH
OBJECTS OF FRIGHT.

While we have the horse down in this way, it is a good time to make
him familiar with us, from every position, holding on to the hand rope
all the time, and being ready to pull his nose to his side at any moment,
he should strive to avoid us.

As sooji as the horse is familiar with us from every position, also
with our weight, on any part of his body, lying, sitting, or standing, we
then should begin with other objects, such as the noise of bells, pans,
drums, etc. The sight and touch of blankets, robes, or umbrellas, open
or closed in cut No. 86.

Cut No. 86.
THE HORSE EXAMINING UNUSUAL OBJECTS.

By bringing objects to the horse when down, we can make him ac-
quainted with them, without his getting away from us, or injury in any
way.

THE HORSE EXAMINES OBJECTS AS WE DO, BY SIGHT,
TOUCH AND SMELL.

The horse examines all things very much as we do, first by sight, and
then by touch. But if the sight is sufficient to frighten him away, he
never fully satisfies himself by the touch: he stays away from the object
through fear by sight alone. Consequently, the importance of having

HORSE SENSE.

171

him in a position by which wc can bring the objects in contact with his
body, and show him by touch, sight and smell, that there is no cause for
pain from them.

Cut No. 87.
CONTENTMENT OF HORSE AND MAN.

If we have done our work consistently, and in such order that we
have carried the horse along with us, in understanding, step by step, we
may now take every incumbrance from him, and he will appear as seen
in cut No. 87, confident and contented.

The above cut. No. 86, was made from the photograph of a hand-
some four-year-old mare, and the writer, after having had a lesson of
about twenty minutes (without sweating a hair), on the fair grounds at
Madison, Minn. She was a powerful mare, active and very nervous to
begin with, but very soon became remarkably docile, as almost all horses
will, when properly handled.

REMEMBER THE HORSE IS ENDOWED WITH INTELLECT
AND PASSION.

Don't let us ever forget that the horse is endowed with intelligence,
kindness, fear, passion and revenge; and we must conduct ourselves ac-
cordingly, observing closely the laws of correlation between men and
animals.

AN APPEAL TO THE READERS IN RELATION TO METHODS
AND MEANS.

Vow. dear reader, please remember what has been repeatedly said,
that there is as much virtue in the methods as the means. To be sure

172 HORSE SENSE.

we can, by the means here represented, throw the horse down with con-
siderable violence, and punish him severely while down and in close con-
tact with him, without his being able to help himself; but by so doing we
defeat the very object aimed at, viz., every time thereafter, remembering
the punishment received, he will refuse to submit until entirely exhausted.
But by the cool, quiet method and not being in too great a hurry, the
horse realizes his trouble, gets weary, lies down, finds he is unable to
rise of his own efforts, yet finds he has a friend in us, who comes to his
assistance in time of need, and he certainly appreciates it with a kindly
remembrance, or he would not rest so contented as shown in cut No. 87.

CHAPTER XXXV.

MEANS, METHODS AND PRINCIPLES OF HANDLING
HORSES BY THE LEGS.

Having previously made ourselves familiar with the horse, by laying
him down and proving our superior power, (through the means used),
and at the same time relieving him when he got into any serious entangle-
ments; if he still persists in asserting his wishes as soon as he is assisted
to his feet again, then we should use means to control his powers of
locomotion.

Of the many ways and means of controlling the horse through the
medium of his legs, mention of a few of the more important will suffice.

We will commence our operations by taking the saddle and crupper
of a single harness. We use both girths in order to retain the shaft-
holders down in position.

CONTROLLING

Cut No.
HORSE BY
METHOD.

DOUBLE PERSUASIVE

The lines, for driving, should pass through the shaft-holders, in-
stead of the terrets on the saddle. By having the lines through the
shaft-holders, the horse is prevented from turning around and facing
us, as the lines pull across his thighs, instead of over his back, and we
are enabled to keep his head from us.

174

HORSE SENSE.

When we have the Hnes so adjusted, we should then buckle a strap
around each front pastern. Then take about twenty feet of quarter
inch rope or rawhide, and with one end in the hand, put it under the
girth of the harness, against the hair, pass it down, and under the strap
at the pastern of the right leg, and back under the girth again, with the
hair, and down to, and attach to the strap of the pastern of the left
leg, when we can take the rope and lines in hand, and get behind the
horse, and commence proceedings as in cut No. 88.

If the horse starts of? quietly we must certainly give him no an-
noyance, but if he persists in trying to get away from us, or rears, we
should proceed to draw his front feet to his body, as seen in cut No. 89,
by pulling on the rope; or if he attempts to run from the start, we pull
on the rope, for the same purpose as seen in cut No. 90.

'^^^%A

Cut No

THE HORSE REARING, BUT LOSING THE USE OF HIS LEGS
.IN THE ACT.

REINS FOR THE LEGS, BETTER THAN TO THE BITS.
When the horse is determined to get away, with even good treat-
ment, the use of the double foot attachment persuader is very effective,
if in the hands of a considerate and affectionate horseman. If the horse
starts by rearing or running, and we pull on the rope, the result is the
same in both cases, and is very well shown in cut No. 90.

HORSE SENSE.

175

It is quite evident from the appearance of the horse in the illus-
tration, cut No. 89. that if the attachment give way he is at liberty,
but, on the other hand, if the attaciimcnts are strong enough he is
bound to come to the ground on his nose and knees, as will be seen in
cut No. 91.

Now that we have the horse in this helpless condition, we must not
keep him there long, or he will get discouraged and lie down, and
possibly refuse to get up. But if we hold him in this position but a
moment, or until he becomes comparatively quiet, then go to him
calmly, caress him, put one arm under his neck, loosen the reins and
rope, and lift on him a little, with an encouraging word to get up, he
will get to his feet promptly, and be a little more careful afterwards.

l<b HORSE SENSE.

A FAILURE UNLESS PRINCIPLES AND METHODS ARE
CLOSELY OBSERVED.

One handler will use this appliance with the most satisfactory re-
sults by going slow and careful, not dropping the horse to his knees,
but once or twice, and the horse realizing the advantage taken of him,
and not becoming confused, quietly adapts himself to the wishes of
his teacher, while another handler with the same horse would make
some mistakes, get confused ar angry himself, and soon get the horse
excited and have a real fight between horse and man, a condition that
should be avoided at all times and under all conditions, as no good can
result. The natural query to the reader then would be, is this method
valuable or dangerous in my hands? This can be answered only by say-
ing that by these means we can prevent the horse from running away

Cut No. 91.
CONVINCING THE HORSE OF HIS UTTER HELPLESSNESS.

or doing much mischief in any way, which we consider valuable to
both man and horse. But we must urge all handlers not to put the
horse down on his knees any oftener than can possibly be avoided,
for the best results. The horse can travel with this appliance about as
well as without it. We should advise the use of knee-pads if the horse
is to be driven on the hard rough roads.

THE APPLIANCE MORE VALUABLE IN SINGLE THAN IN
DOUBLE HARNESS.

The double persuader is better and more practical in single than
double harness, on account of this depriving the horse of the use of his
front legs and stopping him entirely, which must necessarily be a
hindrance to the other horse. The single persuader will be considered
in connection with the work in double harness principally.

HORSE SENSE. 177

CONTROLLING THE HORSE BY THE SINGLE PERSUASIVE
METHOD.

Now, dear readers, please don't complain of our heading, because we
mean it in its most forcible sense. Persuasive influence, with both men
and animals, is certainly the most efifective, as we shall try to show
here; and if our readers will apply the principles, means and methods
here laid down, instead of the whip and other brutal force, we are
confident of gaining our point with both the horse and his handler.

Means and methods, you will observe, are our principles of con-
vincing the horse that if he is determined to have a struggle, it must
be mostly with himself. We should take as little part in it as possible,
consequently try to devise the means by which he can demonstrate to
himself that he is fighting himself rather than his handler. In the pre-
ceding example of handling the horse by his feet, and taking both front
feet from him by the double persuader, we thereby stop him in further
progress of locomotion, which, if persevered in will have a tendency to
anger or discourage the horse. While we may like this method of taking
the front feet from the horse in his very first lesson in harness, to
convince him that at the word whoa, or in an attempt to run away with
us, to rear or kick, we can at once demonstrate to him (without pain)
that he is powerless to do so to any satisfactory degree, it also has its
objectionable features, as we have before indicated; beyond the first
short lesson, in which we should always use it to begin with, so as to be
sure we have all the advantage on our side; after which we use the
single persuader until the horse fully understands what we wish him
to do for us.

PERSUASIVE INFLUENCE IS ALWAYS BETTER THAN
BRUTE FORCE.

We should not depend on the bit, and especially harsh bits, to control
the young, ambitious, or even vicious horse, because, in his eagerness
to get away, or do mischief, we are apt to injure his mouth to such a
degree that it is ever after tender and sore, or so calloused that he is a
"puller" (lugger) ever after. But if we apply our "persuasive" influ-
ence as hereinafter described, all users will be pleased with its effect,
and not take the chances of making a runaway, kicking, dangerous
horse, in his primary lessons in harness. By the use of the "per-
suader," we are enabled to make the horse a cripple for the time being,
and yet not necessarily stop or hurt him, but impede his progress to
such a degree that it is not really dangerous to his handler or encour-
aging to the horse.

If the horse proves to be a runaway, we let him run upon three legs
instead of all four. If he is a kicker, he must stand on one front leg to
do the most of his kicking. If he is restless and uneasy about stand-
ing, we let him stand on three legs part the time.

When we find we have a confirmed kicker it is best to attach bells,
tin pans, a fourth of a sack of bran or other object to the crupper of the

178

HORSE SENSE.

harness and let it hang down to the hocks or near there, and drive about
without being hitched to a vehicle at first, as seen in cut No. 92.

<-V(i,

-»^<^i^'

Cut No. 92.
THE SINGLE "PERSUADER" APPLIED TO A KICKER.

Note. — The rope from girth to pastern should show double and
tied at the girth instead of at the foot, as in cut No. 92. See cut No.
93, correctly applied.

The cut represents the horse in the act of doing his utmost to rid
himself from the bells attached to the crupper of his harness, before
the persuader has actually been put into operation. The "persuader" is
applied by having a strap around one front pastern only, then take the
end of the small rope, and pass under the girth from the rear, down
under the strap around the pastern and tie to the girth. See cut No. 92.
With the confirmed kicker, we should give him the opportunity to kick
once or twice, or even more, at the object attached to induce him to
kick, before making it hard work for him by the use of the "per-
suader."

WHEN THE HORSE GETS WARM AND EXCITED, STOP TO
COOL.

As soon as the horse gets warmed up to his work in earnest, or
starts to run, we pull on the rope which takes one front foot from
him, so that he is compelled to balance himself on one foot while he

HORSE SENSE.

179

does his kicking, which soon persuades him that he is making hard
work of it for himself. Or, if he attempts to run and kick, he must
do so on three legs, by which he is soon persuaded it is too hard work
to be enjoyed.

SINGLE PERSUADER BEST USED WITH THE HORSE GO-
ING IN A CIRCLE.

If he is a powerful horse and starts to run and kick, we should
always incline his head towards the opposite side from the leg that is
held up, which induces him to run in as small a circle as possible, and
by a sudden turn of the head he is very apt to fall broadside, which
again persuades him he is making hard work of the kicking business,
which must be the object to be attained in the correction of the kicker.

.- -^

Cut No 93.
THE SINGLE "PERSUADER" APPLIED TO THE RESTLESS.
HORSE.

The restless, uneasy and impatient horse can soon be persuaded to
stand until we are ready to give him the word to move, by simply
letting him stand on three legs a part of the time when he is most
anxious to go. But as soon as he becomes at all quiet — even for a
few seconds — he should have the benefit of all four of his feet, to assure
him that we will give him this benefit if he will only be quiet. This is
fairly well shown in cut No. 93.

THE SINGLE PERSUADER IS FAR BETTER THAN KICKING
STRAPS OR HIGH CHECKING.

Mere preventives, such as kicking straps, high checking, etc., rarely
ever cure the kicking habit. But if we would give the horse the

180

HORSE SENSE.

opportunity to kick at something that cannot hurt him, and have him
in such position that does not necessarily prevent him from kicking,
but makes hard work of it, he is soon persuaded that he prefers to
have anything hanging to him or hitting his heels, rather than work
so hard to get rid of it and fail, too.

EVERYTHING MUST BE SECURELY ATTACHED FOR SUC-
CESS.

Everything attached to the harness to induce the horse to show
what his natural inclination is should be securely fastened, as every time
he succeeds in getting rid of it is an evidence to the horse that he carj
accomplish his object if he only tries long enough, and he is perfectly
willing to try as long as he sees any possibility of succeeding.

DEMONSTRATING TO THE HORSE THAT HE CAN IN-
STANTLY BE MADE A CRIPPLE.
Now isn't it plain that if this is all done quietly, and without appar-
ent efifort, and not to simply annoy and tease the horse, that he will
soon be persuaded that he is only v/orking against himself, and conclude
that he is doing a great amount of hard work for nothing? Isn't it also
apparent, to even the casual observer, that if we can permit the horse to
still keep going (though somewhat crippled in one leg) that he will
be persuaded to go quietly, much sooner than he will if we take both
front feet from him, which stops him from moving entirely?

Cut No. 94.

DRIVING THE KICKER DOUBLE WITH SINGLE PERSUAD-
ER ATTACHED.

Note. — The dotted line is to represent the rope drawn under the
body of the horse to which it is attached and between the horses to the
driver, and not on the outside, as the same would appear.

HORSE SENSE.

181

HITCHING THE KICKER IN DOUBLE HARNESS TO WAGON.
We neglected to state before that when we are ready to hitch the
kicker to a vehicle, we prefer to first drive in double harness to wagon
and be sure to have the "persuader" on the outside front foot, so
that if he should fall at any time he will fall outwardly, instead of on the
pole, and possibly break it. As a precautionary measure we should al-
ways apply the "persuader" to every colt when first harnessed to a
wagon or other vehicle, so as to persuade him, at once, that if he
attempts to run or kick, that he must necessarily find it a hard under-
taking. See cut No. 94.

THE WILLFULLY VICIOUS KICKER.

If the persuader and other means and methods fail to accomplish
the desired results with the confirmed kicker, then we must try a
means of self punishment that has never failed with this class of unruly
horses.

SELF PUNISHMENT AT THE VERY INSTANT OF THE VIO-
LATION.

Self punishment is valuable for the reason that the punishment is
dealt out the very instant of the violation and at the other end, or front
end of the horse, which naturally attracts his attention to the point of
punishment with such force that he, as naturally, forgets what has
transpired at the rear. The means to accomplish the work consists of
one piece of one-fourth or five-sixteenths inch rope, about twelve or

Cut No. 95.

KICKING ATTACHMENT FOR SINGLE OR DOUBLE HAR,

NESS.

182 HORSE SENSE.

fourteen feet long, and another piece of seven-sixteenths inch rope, about
six feet long, a pulley, four straps one inch and one-fourth wide and
about one foot long each, and two iron rings, one and one-half inches in
■diameter.

First, thread the long rope through the eye of the pulley, and the
short rope around the pulley itself. Now, check the horse's head the de-
sired height with a good, strong overhead check. Next draw the short
rope backwardly from the front, and under the girth, so the pulley will
rest just back of the girth, as shown in cut No. 95.

Next, take the ends of the small rope, carry each to the rings of
the bridle-bit, at either side, passing through the rings, from the out-
side (which will bring the rope over the head, under the headstall of
the bridle) and carry over the head, from each side, and pass through the
rings again from the inside, and let them hang there until the balance
of the attachment has been adjusted. First, by buckling the straps above
and below the hocks and through the rings, as seen in cut No. 95.
Then tie the larger and shorter rope into these rings at the hocks,
by half hitches, so as to leave the pulley just back of the girth, and
finish the adjustment by drawing the ropes moderately taut at the bit,
and tie on either side by half hitches also, (which makes the rope
easily untied, no matter how tight drawn) and we are ready for the
first trial.

GIVE THE FIRST LESSON WITH ONLY THE HARNESS ON
THE HORSE.

We should always commence the first lesson with only the harness
and reins, because the first kick may be a terrible one; but, in all
probability, it will be the last severe one, as it will never be forgotten
by the horse. We will naturally be asked, why? It is for the reason
that when the hind legs are forced backward, the rope over the head
has drawn the bit so far up into the angles of the mouth, and holds
it there, that the horse forgets what happened at the rear, from the
fact that he is into so much trouble at his front end (the mouth).

EVERY TIME THE HORSE KICKS HE SHOULD BE RE-
LIEVED AT THE MOUTH.

It should be our duty to go to the horse's head and draw the bit
down into the mouth away from the angles, and caress him, immediately
after a hard kick, satisfying him that notwithstanding he got himself into
trouble, we are charitable enough to help him out of it. If, by the
first kick, any part of the kicking attachment has been broken, it should
be repaired before relieving the horse at the head. This attachment is
applicable to either single or double harness, the wagon, plow or other
vehicle; but we should never hitch a kicking horse to any kind of
vehicle where he can injure himself or break the carriage, until we are
satisfied that he knows better than to kick hard, at least.

HORSE SENSE. 1H3

CAN TRAVEL ABOUT AS WELL WITH AS WITHOUT THIS
ATTACHMENT.

With this kicking attachment the horse can walk, trot or pace,
but cannot run to much purpose, for when the hind legs are brought
backward together it must produce an effect on the mouth; whereas
the movements of walking, trotting or pacing move one leg at a time;
the leg rope plays back and forth, through the pulley, without any appre-
ciable effect on the mouth.

Except in a very straight hock, the straps will stay in their places,
especially if both upper and lower straps are of the proper length to
allow the ring to d'-aw from the center of the hock. But if there is an
inclination to drop down below the hock, a string or strap from the
hock-band to the back strap v/ill keep them in place.

ALWAYS CARRY THE SMALL ROPES OVER THE HORSE'S
HEAD BEFORE TYING.

The reader may wonder why we want to pass the long, small rope
up over the horse's head and tie into the bit-ring on the opposite side;
but will naturally say to himself, it is just as well to tie to the bit-ring
on either side, instead of going to the trouble of passing it over the head
and tying on the other side.

NEVER TIE THE ROPE DIRECTLY FROM UNDER THE
BODY TO THE BIT.
If the rope is tied directly to the bit-ring, and the horse should kick
hard, he will certainly bruise his mouth badly, and may break the bit and
get his freedom; whereas, if the rope is passed over the head, as directed,
the hard kick draws the bit up into the angles of the mouth so tightly
that the pressure continues until relief is brought to the horse by his
handler pulling the bit down into the mouth, which, if done in the spirit
of kindness, will soon satisfy the horse that it don't pay to kick any
more. Its use should be persevered in for a considerable time.

A MODIFICATION OF THE LAST NAMED APPLICATION
FOR THE KICKER.
Before trusting the kicker without any appliance to prevent him
from kicking, it is a good plan to use a halter under the bridle with
tic-strap of minimum strnegth only (one that can be easily broken)
and attach this strap to the eye of the pulley, back of the girth, a little
shorter than the ropes of the headstall of the bridle, so that any ten-
sion from the head to the hind legs will come on the nose-band of the
halter instead of the mouth. And if the horse should make an effort to
kick, the halter-strap will break and the effect on the mouth will be
just the same through the medium of the ropes to the mouth as before.

THE HALTER ATTACHMENT FOR SUBSEQUENT US^ AND
ITS BENEFITS.
After the horse has become acquainted with the additional halter
attachment to that of the ropes to the mouth, the rope part to the

184 HORSE SENSE.

mouth may be discontinued and only the halter method used, as seen
in cut No. 96.

Cut No. 96.
HALTER ATTACHMENT FOR KICKER, TROTTER, PACER OR

RUNAWAY.

To use this to the best advantage, a good strong over-head check
rein must be of the first consideration, next a strong halter, a pulley as
used in the former attachment for the confirmed kicker as seen at (a)
in the cut, and supporting strap from the hock-band to the back strap
of the harness, to keep "the hock-strap in position. Now if everything
is strong and the hock-bands well protected with felt or sheep-skin wool
to protect the skin from chafing, we are in good shape for correcting
many of the bad habits of the horse, such as bolting, breaking in
trotting and pacing, kicking or running. As long as the legs of the
horse are working alternately, everything will be running smoothly; but
the instant they act simultaneously the horse "gets it in the neck." That
is, every time the horse breaks his gait or kicks, the effect is instantly felt
in the neck from the sudden pull on the halter, which the horse very
soon learns to respect and consequently behave himself as a good horse
should, without punishment from his driver. It is a part of his harness,
and always works at the opposite end of the animal with the most em-
phasis, and without a movement on the part of the driver. It is not
as unsightly and is less dangerous to the horse than hobbles. To be ap-
preciated it must be properly used.

CLOSING INJUNCTION.

Before closing our remarks in regard to all the preceding ap-
pliances for the sure and safe education of our horses, we would again
impress on the reader's mind that a knowledge of the methods are of
more importance than to know how to make and adjust the means.
They go hand in hand and they must be used humanely, or the objects
aimed at will be utter failures. We naturally consider these the very
best appliances, properly used, to persuade the horse to become man's
willing servant, that we have ever had anything to do with. They can
be used without scarcely any inconvenience to the action of the horse,
and. if required, can be put into immediate effect with the very best
results.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

THE SWITCHER AND LINE CATCHER.

The rein catcher, with the tail, is often a dangerous character, not-
withstanding he, or she, may otherwise be a very valuable animal.

NEVER PULL THE LINE SUDDENLY FROM UNDER THE
TAIL OF THE HORSE.

It is very bad policy to try to suddenly pull the rein from under the
horse's tail whenever caught by accident or purposely. But if it is pos-
sible to let the rein loose, or the tail can be lifted from off the rein
quietly by the hand, the animal may soon recover from any nervousness
in consequence.

NEVER FIGHT OR PUNISH THE LINE CATCHER AND
SWITCHER.

It too often happens that the mischief is done by some unthinking or
inexperienced driver, and the animal ever afterward rendered dangerous
or at least troublesome, to say the least, by punishment for this act of
catching the line.

Mares are generally worse than geldings, and, while they have
free use of the tail, may constantly keep trying to catch the rein under
the tail.

NO CHANCES SHOULD BE TAKEN WITH THE CONFIRMED
SWITCHER.

When the habit of catching the rein with the tail has become a
constant practice, we should endeavor to prevent it by tying into a por-
tion of the hair of the tail, a little above the terminal end of the tail
bone, the middle portion of a string of sufficient length to extend the
tugs, or traces on either side, and securely tie, as shown in cut No. 97.

TIE THE HORSE'S TAIL TO THE SHAFTS OR TRACES TO
PREVENT SWITCHING.

The strings to the tugs or shafts should be drawn taut to begin with,
and, as the animal becomes used to the rein, it may, from time to time,
be tied more loosely.

It will thus be seen that it is impossible for the animal to se-
curely catch and hold the rein with the tail where this device is used;
and, by gently dropping the rein from side to side, without teasing the
animal, we will soon establish confidence between us and the animal,
and the habit is eventually forgotten. The author once used the de-

186

HORSE SENSE.

-vice a whole summer on a very nervous mare before she entirely gave
at up. Prevention and confidence must be established before the habit is
broken up.

Cut No. 97.
PREVENTION AND PROBABLE CURE OF THE SWITCHER.

The tie in the tail should be made with only a small portion of the
hair on the under side of the tail, about the size of a pencil, to that of
the size of the finger.

TYING THE SWITCHER'S TAIL UP OVER THE BACK.

When the nervous switcher will not quit the habit of switching,
-we can often effect a cure by tying the tail up over the back, as

Cut No.

THE SWITCHER WITH THE TAIL TIED UP OVER THE

BACK.

HORSE SENSE. 187

represented in cut No. 98, wliicli is done by tying the knot in the tail
as heretofore mentioned in handling the horse by his tail or rather, in
picketing the pair of horses.

Take a small piece of rope about eight feet long and double it,
tying the double end into the tail so it can be easily untied. Tie the ends-
of the rope to each of the hame tugs or at the collar about even, so as.
to hold the tail just over the back, and draw down quite tight, so as to
make considerable strain on the cords of the tail, and to secure them
in place, it is a good plan to put a circingle over the ropes and fasten
around the body.

MUSCLES TOO SORE FOR MUCH MOVEMENT OF THE TAIL.

From half an hour to two hours is generally sufificient to remind
the horse that his tail is too much strained to do much of a job of
switching, and in this way he will often forget or quit the habit.

CARE MUST BE TAKEN WITH THE NERVOUS MARE ABOUT
THE LINES AND TAIL.

Too much care cannot be exercised in handling nervous mares
about the line getting under the tail, and whenever it happens to be
caught, either stop and remove it gently, or slacken the line so it will
drop irom under the tail. We cannot afford to jerk it out and take the
chances of spoiling an otherwise valuable animal. "An ounce of pre-
vention is worth a pound of cure." "A stitch in time saves nine." Toa
often we "lock the stable door after the horse is stolen. "For the want
of a nail the shoe is lost" — a yank at the line and a stroke of the whip
in haste, often gives room for repentance at leisure.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

THE BALKY HORSE.

From the heading, every reader will naturally say to himself: "Well,
now you have introduced a subject in which we are all interested, and
from the varied experiences with men and horses, we all want to know
more about."

WHAT IS A BALKY HORSE?

A balky horse is one that has been badly handled or overloaded.
His shoulders are sore or he is discouraged, disgusted, or prevented
from going when he wanted to, and naturally says to himself, "you have
stopped me, now I will go when I get ready." Here we are, and the ques-
tion is, "what are we going to do about it?" Well, most people will begin
to whip, yell, yank and pound the poor horse, and so confuse him that he
loses what horse sense he had and stands there like a post, puts his
head over the other horse, or, throwing himself to the ground, breaks
some part of the harness or wagon, and thus gains his point in a large
majority of cases.

MOST BALKY HORSES ARE MADE FROM ONE OR MORE OF
THREE CAUSES.

Horses are generally made balky in one of three ways, and sometimes
all three, viz.: Overloading, going with a heavy load until the horse
is out of breath, exhausted, discouraged and disgusted with the treat-
ment of his driver; by badly fitting collars, sore shoulders, improper
draught of the collar, pulling too high or too low on the shoulder, etc.

THE HIGH STRUNG, NERVOUS HORSE MUST BE TREATED
VERY KINDLY.

Horses are made balky by punishment in the mouth with the bit
when the horse is disposed to go, preventing him from starting when he
would go off quietly, by "yanking" the horse back from time to time,
when he would go ahead, until, when the driver is ready for the start,
the horse has concluded that he dare not try it again on account of
the punishment by the bit, when he absolutely refuses to go when
asked.

PUNISHMENT AND CONFUSION OFTEN MAKES BALKY
HORSES.

When the balky horse has stopped is the time the fata! mistake is
generally made, by the use of the whip at the rear end of the horse.

HORSE SENSE.

180

ami while lie naturaiiy would go ahead by the tap of the whip on the
rump, he now acts under the impression that he is nut to be per-
mitted to go ahead from the treatment he had in the mouth, and now
that the punishment is coming at the rear, he says by his actions, "what
am I to do now?"' and in his confused condition he generally rears up
and throws himself, breaking the harness or wagon.

BAD MANAGEMENT IS A FRUITFUL CAUSE OF BALKING.

Who is to blame with the balker? Ninety-nine times out of one
hundred it is the result of bad management, in the first place by the
driver, consequently the old adage that "balky horses are made by
balky drivers."

REMEDY FOR BALKY HORSES.

Before giving the remedy, it will be well to repeat the law governing
the horse, to-wit: Whatever happens at the front of the horse, impels
him backward; and that at the rear sends him forward. Now we must
take advantage of this law in applying the remedy to the balky horse.
Instead of the usual confusion, excitement and punishment, we should
quietly get down from the wagon and caress the balky horse as though
nothing was wrong. We should then take a rope or strap strong
enough to draw the load, and from eight to ten feet long, with the short
end toward us. Then we should lay the rope or strap across the tail of
the horse, just below the end of the tail bone, about three feet from the
end of the rope or strap; now turn all the hair of the tail back toward
the body of the horse, holding the same with the left hand. Reach under
the tail and grasp the long part of the rope or strap with the right hand,
bring it around the tail and tuck it under that part of the tail double, as

Cut No. 99.
THE BALKY HORSE HITCHED FOR THE START.

190 HORSE SENSE.

shown in cut No. 65, where we were hitchhig the horse's head and tail
together. It is the same character of knot.

As soon as the knot in the tail is draw-n firmly, we should tie the
short end of the rope or strap to the end of the evener (double tree),
with the tugs (traces) slack; then we must quietly get into the wagon,
taking the long end of the rope or strap with us, as is well shown in
cut 99, ready for the start

When we are all ready to start (not before) we should touch the oth-
er horse with the whip or rein for a sudden start, which pulls on the other
fellow's tail, and he wonders what has so suddenly happened to him
at the rear end, which induces him to at once move forward without
further ceremony, which is very nicely represented in cut No. 100.

Cut No. 100.
THE BALKY HORSE PULLING BY HIS TAIL.

He naturally says to himself, "this is a new attachment, and by the
law of my being I must go forward," which is the desired direction, and
we should make no complaint.

KEEP THE HORSE PULLING BY THE TAIL UNTIL SATIS-
FIED TO GO WITHOUT.

We must keep the horse pulling by his tail until he becomes fairly
reconciled to that way of drawing and going steadily, when we should
quietly pull on the rope or strap we have in the wagon, which releases his
tail and permits him to pull in the usual manner without stopping.

ALWAYS UNTIE THE TAIL WHEN GOING DOWN GRADE.

The untying of the tail should be done while the horse is in mo-
tion, while going down grade, and if he does not appreciate the change
and should stop, we must again get down, as quietly as before, and

HORSE SENSE. 191

keep it up nuicli longer, repeating as often as necessary, until the horse
decides that lie prefers to draw the loads by his shoulders, rather than
his tail, as shown in cut No. loi.

Cut No. loi.
THE HORSE CHEERFULLY DECIDES TO DO THE WORK
FROM THE SHOULDERS.

The object in writing is twofold; first, to give a more complete de-
scription of the means, and especially the methods, than has hereto-
fore been observed by other writers on the subject; second, to be able,
at least to a degree, to ameliorate the sufferings of our horses in the
hands of those who would treat them more humanely if they only knew
the means and methods by which they could efifectively do so in an in-
telligent manner. We must not charge the abuse of our horses entirely
to the naturally cruel dispositions of their handlers, but to a want of
the proper means and methods, also, to the inherited impression in
man that the horse is only a brute to be driven, driven, driven, without
giving this noble servant credit for scarcely any of his innate intelligence.

The close attention given this subject by the author for more than
forty years, and a study of the natural laws by which the horse can be
made as obedient and useful an animal as treads the earth, though the
means and methods of his education, is the reason for dwelling on the
humanitarian side b'f the question.

The author confidently believes that when the young men of today
fully understand the underlying principles of horse sense, that our equine
friends will be handled more humanely, and there will be a better under-
standing between men and horses.

Note. — An old Mexican method of drawing loads, and especially the
^low, by the tail of animals, was brought out at a Farmers' Institute

192

HORSE SENSE.

at Hagerstown, Md., while the author was talking on this important sub-
ject, through a Mr. Daniel Reichard, who had traveled extensively and
had seen many methods of handling horses. He said "he had seen many
horses and mules in Mexico drawing the old crude wooden plows hitched
only by their tails to the beam of the plow." And once while riding
with a Mexican in Texas on horseback, they came across a darkey, who
with his mule were stuck in the mud and both discouraged. After many
attempts to get out of the dilemma, he said the Mexican asked the
darkey if he would like him to help him out of the difficulty. The darkey
replied that he would like his help very much, but he could not see how
he could pull him out "without a harness on his hoss." He said the
Mexican took his lariat and tied a similar knot with it in his horse's
tail; then tied the other end to the shaft of the darkey's cart; told the
darkey to make his mule pull his best when ready. The Mexican got on
his horse, gave the word, and by the use of his spurs, his horse pulled
cart, mule and darkey out of the difficulty by the tail, before the mule
had time to straighten himself in the harness. To the surprise of the
author, ]Mr. Reichard stepped forward and tied the knot with the
familiarity of an old hand at the business.

Cut No. 102.

A PAIR OF HORSES CONNECTED WITH EACH OTHER AT
BOTH ENDS.

HORSE SENSE. 193

IMPORTANCE OF KEEPING A TEAM OF HORSES FROM
SEPARATING.

In the commencement of the Iiandling of wild horses in harness,
one of the first considerations is to keep the team in close contact with
each other. Never let a team of horses get in such position that they
can act independently of each other, or we are in trouble at once if
they are so disposed. By having a good strong neck strap on each
horse with a coupling connection, we are enabled to hold the front ends
of the horses as close together as we desire, and by connecting the tails
with rope or strap (with the character of knots heretofore described in
picketing horses on the prairie, cut No. 70), we are able to keep the
rear ends of the horses at any required distance. See cut No. 102.

When the horses are securely connected as described, we can take
hold of the lines and drive them with the harness only at first. It is al-
ways better in the beginning to use an old steady horse with the newly
captured one, so that the experienced horse can act as a teacher for the
inexperienced. After driving about for a short time, and stopping and
starting frequently so that the new horse may learn what this means,
they may be attached to a log, stone-boat or sled and driven about to
this for a sufficient time to get them accustomed to pulling and working
together; then they may be hitched to a heavy wagon with rub-lock, so
that in case the rattle of the wagon frightens the young pupil we can
make the draft suthcient to regulate the speed as we may desire.

THERE IS ALWAYS A WAY IF WE WILL GIVE THE MAT-
TER DUE CONSIDERATION.

Many of the readers of Horse Sense may think there is entirely too
much stress placed upon the security of our horses in the beginning of
their education (in youth and maturity), but it is far better to provide
against accidents than to try to correct bad habits after once acquired.
We 3?iOuld always keep in mind the natural laws governing the actions
of our horses and then, knowing the greater strength of the horse to
that oi man, we must provide against probabilities as well as possibilities.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

MISCHIEF IN THE HORSE'S STOMACH.

We sincerely hope that the reader will feel that we are fully justified
in our frequent references to the welfare of our horses, and the ad-
vantages to their owners of breeding, feeding and general care, also in
urging the desirability of keeping them in a healthy and vigorous con-
dition.

The most common fault in dealing with the horse, and particularly
his stomach, and probably the most mischievous and detrimental, is in
giving water just after a full feed of -grain. Grain, unlike hay, has to
undergo gastric digestion in the stomach, where the nitrogenous ele-
ments have to be taken care of, and if, by the addition of water, the
grain is forced from the stomach into the bowels before this character of
digestion is accomplished, the food is practically lost.

TOO MUCH WATER AFTER FEEDING IS A GREAT MIS-
CHIEF MAKER.

Excessive draughts of cold water after feeding is a great mischief
maker, producing vascular congestion, and frequently violent muscular
contractions. It lowers the temperature, and otherwise intereferes with
digestion, and naturally tends to promote disorders of a dangerous char-
acter. At particular times a copious drink of water of only moderate
temperature is full of mischief.

It is a good plan to always allay the thirst of the horse before giving
grain, and if any water is given after feeding, it should be but a few, and
only a few, swallows, until the digestion of the stomach is completed.

TAKE WATER TO THE FIELD FOR THE HORSE AS WELL
AS THE MEN.

When the farmer is working in the fields, the horse generally is
obliged to go from morning until noon, and from noon until night,
without water, when his driver is very careful to provide himself with
plenty of drinking water, and takes it often; never thinking that the
mute horse is suffering more than he would, if he had forgotten to pro-
vide for himself. A five-gallon keg, or one that will hold more, and
a pail, should be provided from which to give the horse an occasional ^
small drink of water, which would be as fully appreciated by the horse as
the driver's drink is by him, and is but little trouble to take tn the
field.

HORSE SENSE. l\JO

THOUSANDS OF HORSES DIE ANNUALLY FROM TOO
MUCH WATER AT A TLME.

Thousands of horses die every summer from the effects of drinking
too much cold water, after having to go so long a time before being sup-
plied with that natural and necessary beverage.

DIETING HORSES.

The secret of feeding horses to advantage is to keep their appetites
and digestion (which are very closely allied) in perfect condition; and
to do this is to study closely the dififerences in likes and dislikes in the
tastes and relish of each individual animal, some having very marked
preferences for one article of food, and strong dislikes for others, one
horse doing well and thriving on some foods, while others will fall off in
flesh on the same diet.

HORSES HAVE AN AVERSION TO FOOD OR DRINK OF A
GREASY NATURE.

Almost all horses have an aversion to food or drink of a greasy
nature, and yet there is occasionally one that will go to the swill bar-
rel and fill up on its contents of every character.

SOME HORSES CAN BE TAUGHT TO EAT TOBACCO AND
DRINK ALCOHOL.

Some horses can be taught to consume tobacco and even alcoholic
drinks, and as a stimulant the latter has been used to a considerable ex-
tent for faint-hearted racehorses. But the administration of stimulants is
not to be commended, as a rule.

HAY AND GRAIN REGULARLY BETTER THAN CONDITION
POWDERS.
Good, clean grain and hay, with water at regular intervals and in
moderate quantities, is the best for all horses, and when so treated, there
is rarely any call for stimulants or appetizing foods, such as condition
powders, and a long '»ne of appetizers, blood regulators, etc., so freely
advertised.

DRUGGING HORSES.

Among the most pernicious ideas which possess the minds of many
farmers and would-be horsemen is the notion that almost any one can
"doctor a horse;" that some kind of medicine must be given to every one
upon the least symptom of disease; and that, when he is well and thrifty,
some drugs must be given him now and then to keep him so. The reader
will not have to strain his thinker very badly to recall some one who
believes that good feed, exercise and comfortable quarters are not nearly
so essential to health and thrift as a few doses of condition powders,
given occasionally; that foul water and no salt is all right, if he has a
little sulphur and copperas once in awhile.

196 HORSE SENSE.

PROPENSITY TO USE DRUGS WITH OUR HORSES.

One of the most unaccountable traits in the makeup of many men
is ihe propensity to drug animals, and to be deluded by the bostful pre-
tensions of ignorant vendors of nostrums, warranted to cure all ills,
restore shattered constitutions and be a perfect substitute for good^
wholesome food and proper, humane treatment.

MEDICINES RIGHT AND PROPER IN THEIR PLACE.

No one will deny that medicine in the hands of one competent to-
make a correct diagnosis and skillfully administer the same (when the
horse is sick) is a powerful agent for relieving a majority of all the ills
to which the horse is subject.

DRUGS HIGHLY INJURIOUS, WHEN NOT SKILLFULLY
HANDLED.

The point we are trying to make is that medicine not skillfully
handled is highly injurious, even dangerous, and, with the exception of a
few simple remedies, should be given only by a skilled veterinarian.

IT IS FOLLY TO EXPERIMENT WITH DRUGS ON THE
HORSE.

A most inexcusable folly is that of experimenting with drugs on the
horse every time he shows some trifling ailment. Yet this is not a very-
uncommon practice in dealing with the sick horse. If the animal dies
under the treatment, as it does sometimes, the owner consoles himself
f with the reflection that he tried everything he could hear of, and did his
best to save the horse. If, by some happy circumstance, the horse over-
comes both the disease and the bungling treatment, the owner pats him-
self on the back and believes he is a natural "boss doctor."

THOUSANDS RELIEVED BY SKILL, AND MORE KILLED BY
BUNGLERS.

Thousands of diseased horses are relieved by our skilled veterin-
arians, but a good many more are killed outright by bunglers, wha
try to practice a profession they know nothing about. Others are in-
jured and some ruined by constant dosing with quack nostrums and
cure-alls.

REST WHEN AILING, GOOD TREATMENT WHEN SICK AND
LET ALONE WHEN WELL.

With rest, quiet and proper surroundings, nature will correct her
own slight disorders. Use judgment and discretion in cases of emer-
gency requiring treatment. If the case is serious, leave the treatment
to one skilled in that line. But above all, when the horse is well and
thrifty leave him alone.

DRENCHING HORSES.

Whenever it is necessary to give fluid medicines to horses, it should
be done in the most convenient and humane manner. Too often it is.

HORSE SENSE.

197

seen that tlie horse's head is drawn up high, by tlirowing the halter
strap over a beam in the barn, holding the jaws together by pulling on
the under jaw, and then pour half the prescribed dose into the horse's
mouth and pound him on the throat to get him to swallow. By this
method, every move is in opposition to the natural instincts of the ani-
mal. The jaw-strap o'f the halter has the efifect of holding the mouth
closed frt)m its pressure on the under jaw. The pounding or pinching
of the throat also tends to the contraction of the muscles of the neck
and operates against the horse swallowing. Now it should always be
remembered that any pressure on the horse's palate (roof of the mouth)
induces him to open his mouth and hold it open as long as this pressure
is made. The illustration shows a very simple and effective manner of
handling the horse's head while giving fluid medicines. The picture shows
for itself. See cut No. 103.

Cut No. 103.
PRACTICAL METHOD OF DRENCHING THE HORSE.

A small rope the size of a clothes line , slipped under the nose-band
of the halter and into the horse's mouth and lifted high enough so that
the medicine will gravitate back in the mouth, will answer about as

198

HORSE SENSE.

well as drawing it over a beam. Either will answer this purpose, but
instead of pounding the horse on the throat to get him to swallow,
just tickle him a little with the neck of the bottle in the roof of the
mouth and give time for the horse to close his mouth, and he will take
the medicine very readily in the majority of cases. Don't strain the head
too high as that very much interferes with swallowing.

CHEAP AND PRACTICAL SYRINGE.

Since it is well known that injections for the horse per rectum are
about as valuable as those given per mouth, it is important that every
horse owner provide himself with one of these inexpensive instruments.
It consists of an ordinary tin funnel, to be had at any hardware store.

Cut No. 104.
GIVING MEDICINE BY INJECTION.

and a piece of rubber tubing of just sufflcient size to be stretched over
the spout of the funnel. The rubber tubing is to be oiled and inserted
into the rectum from four inches to one foot, and then the funnel lifted as
high above the horse's back as the tubing will allow, and then the med-
icine or injection material is to be poured into the funnel and let it
gravitate into the bowels, as shown in cut No. 104.

WATCH THE HORSE'S FEET.

Too much care cannot be taken of the feet. It is much easier to
keep the feet sound than to cure them after they have become injured
by neglect or carelessness.

If your horses' feet have become hard, soak them in water, or ap-
ply a poultice of flax seed. A pad made of a piece of an old blanket,
or some woolen cloth, thoroughly wet and fastened around the hoof, will
allay fever and keep the feet in good condition. .

WHERE TO FEED THE HORSE GRAIN.

The most natural position for the horse's food to occupy when he
is eating, it is on the ground. In ordinary cases, it is certainly the one

HORSE SENSE. 199

which is the most conducive to his health, because it obliges him to eat
more slowly, oft'ers more facilities for the saliva to flow from the salivary
glands into the mouth, and gives more exercise to the muscles.

DRINKING WATER FOR HORSES.

Horses are so fastidious as to the quality of their drinking water,
and grooms are often so careless of this fact, that we feel certain it is a
mistake to have a fixed water vessel alongside of a horse, which, wc
may be quite sure, will not be cleaned out as frequently as necessary.
Observation convinces us that when a horse has a basin or bucket of
water constantly in front of him, he will undoubtedly slaver into it and
foul it, so that its inner surface will soon be covered with mucous and
•dirt, which will not be always cleaned away by the groom, even if he
be careful enough to keep the vessel constantly full. When the re-
ceptacle is a fixture, the cleaning-out process can be accomplished only
with difficulty.

THE HAY MANGER.

The hay receptacle should never take the form of the old-fashioned
hay-rack, which is placed high up, and which consequently is not an
uncommon indirect cause of inflammation of the eyes, from irritating
particles dropping out of the hay into them. Besides, with these hay-
racks, many horses get into the idle and provoking habit of pulling out
the hay, irrespective of their desire to eat it, until all the hay they have
not consumed is scattered over the floor, and more or less "messed"
about.

MANGE IN HORSES.

This annoying disease is characterized by irritation and itching of
the skin, causing the horse to rub himself whenever the opportunity
offers. There are several kinds of this disease, but nearly all may be
relieved, and generally cured, by removing the scabs with a brush, soap
and warm water, and then applying a strong decoction of tobacco,
which can be made by putting one and a half to two ounces of tobacco
in one quart of water. The operation should be repeated in about two
weeks, to destroy the new brood. The barn and stalls should be white-
washed. The parts generally affected are at the roots of the hair of
The mane, along the back and tail, head and sometimes the heels and
lower portions of the legs.

FATIGUE, A CAUSE FOR DISEASE.

If a horse is tired when he comes to the barn we should not water
him immediately, nor should we give him a feed, but first allow him to
become rested.

The following methods should be observed in feeding and water-
ing horses:

Avoid sudden change in the kind of food.

Avoid sudden changes from whole food to ground food, and vice
versa.

Limit the quantity of food to what can be easily and thoroughly di-
gested.

Water before feeding.

Never feed or water a horse when exhausted or very tired.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.

It is not intended to make Horse Sense to any special degree a
veterinary work, but there are a few recipes that have been found to be
excellent in the majority of cases, and for the convenience of those in-
terested, a limited number are given in the hope that they will meet
the wants of its readere.

REMEDY FOR COLIC.

We should give these cautiously, as conditions alter cases to that
extent that remedies should be varied to meet the conditions. One of
the first remedies is ginger. Take about half a teacupful of powdered
Jamaica ginger, pour on cold water till the cup is full, stir thoroughly
after a minute or so, and then gradually add hot water until it is about
as warm as the horse can stand. Give as a drench. Immediately after-
ward, if there is a tendency to bloat, put a heaping teaspoonful of salera-
tus in half a pint of warm water and give to the animal. This will correct
any acid condition of the stomach or intestines, and often relieves bloat-
ing at once. Injections of warm water and soap will be found a relief
for the difficulty. If the colic is due to over-feeding, give raw linseed
oil. If the horse is of ordinary size, say 1,200 pounds weight, then give
a quart to a quart and a half, and if he weighs from 1,400 to 1,600 pounds,
then give from a quart and a half to two quarts. It will be found the
above method of treating colic is as effective as using the most expen-
sive drugs, providing the treatment is begun in the earliest stages of the
disease.

COLIC REMEDY.

Carbonate ammonia I drachm.

Tincture Ginger i ounce.

'Water i Pint.

Mix and drench the horse. If the acid or gas exists in the bowels,
substitute lime water for the ammonia and add half an ounce of tincture
Gentian. When the carbonate of ammonia is not at hand bi-carbonate
of soda will answer. The addition of injections will be a great help in
relieving the bowels of gas and fecal matter. Soap-suds as an injection
will be indicated in almost all cases. If the above remedy does not give

HORSE SENSE. 201

relief in hall an hour, it will be well to give the following every three
hours until it operates:

Turpentine I ounce.

Raw linseed oil i quart.

Mix and give at one dose. Then follow up wi^h the first named colic
remedy above, every hour until the horse is comfortable and eating.

FLATULENT COLIC.

Powdered grains of paradise i teaspoonful

Powdered caraway seeds J i teaspoonful

Oil peppermint 20 drops

Powdered slippery elm i tablespoonful

Hot water i pint

Mix, give one dose and repeat if necessary. It is perfectly harmless.
If the disease proves a complicated one, no time should be lost in
calling a competent veterinarian.

DIARRHEA— SCOURS.

Powdered ginger (African) 3 drachms

Powdered charcoal 2 drachms

Flour gruel i pint

Oil peppermint 20 drops

]\Iix and give at one dose, which may be repeated in six hours if the
disease is not checked. We should not be in too great a hurry to stop
the diarrhea or we will be in greater trouble. If the liver is involved in
the difficulty, we may give a few doses of the following:

Powdered gentian 2 oimces

Powdered ginger (African) i ounce

Salt I ounce

Mix and give in half ounce doses twice a day. The first may answer
the purpose, but it may require both to accomplish a cure. ■

SCOURS IN THE YOUNG FOAL.
This is a matter of more than passing notice. The young foal is
dependent on its dam for all the food it gets, consequently our attention
should be to the feed and care of the mother of the colt rather than the
colt itself. If the food is not sufficiently nourishing for the requirements
of both, it will first show in the colt. But if the food for the mare is
generous and she is a glutton in both eating and drinking, the colt is
very apt to have an attack of the scours, and instead of treating the colt
for the disease, we should cut down on the feed and drink of the mare,
and the trouble will soon be over with. Sometimes, limiting the water
supply to the mare will be all that is necessary to relieve the colt of
scours. A raw egg broken in the mouth of the colt and swallowed is
beneficial, but will not relieve the difficulty without attention to the feed
and drink of the dam.

SLAVERING.

Powdered bayberry bark I ounce

Powdered gum myrrh I ounce

Powdered goldenseal i ounce

Powdered ginger I ounce

Powdered sulphur i ounce

Mix and divide into eight powders, giving one (in fine feed) night

202 HORSE SENSE.

and morning. In some cases it may be necessary to use astringent mouth
washes, composed of bayberry bark, witch-hazel, alum, etc., either of
■which is good where astringents are indicated.

PREPARATION FOR THE EXPULSION OF BOTS.

Powdered male fern 2 ounces

Powdered aloes i ounce

Powdered poplar bark 4 ounces

White mustard seed 2 ounces

Common salt 6 ounces

Mix and divide into eighteen doses, giving one each night and morn-
ing in the feed. If the horse can have the advantage of some green food,
the better.

The nits or eggs from which the bots derive their start is deposited
"by the female Gad-fly upon the front legs of horses principally, and they
can be removed by greasing the hair of the legs and then rubbing with
a coarse cloth, or washing with warm water.

THE HORSE'S STOMACH THE NATURAL HOME OF THE
BOT.

Now please don't take it for granted that this remedy is given for the
expulsion of the bots, because we believe that they injure or disease the
horse in the least. But it is given to satisfy those people who are sure
that bots are a very dangerous enemy to the health of the horse. The
preparation is one that will do no harm if it does not remove all of the
bots, and as good for the purpose as anything that we know of.

INDIGESTION.

Powdered ginger (African) 2 ounces

Powdered poplar bark 2 ounces

Powdered asafoetida 2 ounces

Powdered sulphate iron 5 drachms

Powdered capsicum I drachm

Oat-meal • • i pound

Mix, divide into sixteen parts, giving one each night in the feed.

WORM REMEDY.

Powdered wormseed 2 ounces

Powdered mandrake 2 ounces

Powdered sulphur 2 ounces

Powdered ginger (African) 2 ounces

Powdered charcoal 2 ounces

White mustard seed (whole) 2 ounces

Salt 2 ounces

Powdered poplar bark i pound

Mix and divide into twenty powders, and give one night and morn-
ing in the feed. This will improve the health of the horse and have
a tendency to expel the worms.

Note. — Many of the so-called worm remedies are not reliable for all
cases and character of worms. If they are small worms, injections of salt
water or decoction of quassa chips will remove them.

HORSE SENSE. 203

WORM MEDICINE.

Turpentine i ounce

Raw linseed oil 6 ounces

Mix and give at one dose, repeat once a week for three weeks.

INJECTION FOR PIN WORMS.

Aloes I ounce

Hot water i quart

Mix by dissolving the aloes in the water and when blood warm use
as an injection. This has an effect on the worms and inclines the horse
to evacuate the bowels.

DRY COUGH.

Marsh mallow root 2 ounces

Treacle 4 ounces

Water 3 pints

Mix and boil to one quart and give as a drench at night.

CHRONIC COUGH.

Tar water ^ pint

Lime water ^ pint

Powdered squill _ I drachm

Mix and give this amount every morning until better.

BRAN MASH.

Bran, J^ peck; boiling water enough to wet the bran thoroughly,
when worked with a stick. Cover and let stand until blood warm.

COUGH MASH.

Ground oil-cake meal 2 quarts

Sugar 2 ounces

Boiling water. . ., 6 quarts

Simmer for three or four hours and give at night. This is food,
medicine and comfort to the horse.

SPRAINS AND OLD SWELLINGS.

Camphorated spirit 2 ounces

Spirits ammonia 2 ounces

Oil turpentine i ounce

Laudinum lA ounce

Oil oraganum i drachm

Mix and bathe the parts every day with good hand rubbing.

SWELLED LEGS.

Many horses' legs swell when confined to the stable and the follow-
ing has been found beneficial, constitutionally as well as locally:

Pulverized asafoetida ^ ounce

Cream of tartar I ounce

Powdered gentian 2 ounces

Ginger (African) 2 ounces

Powdered poplar bark 4 ounces

Mix thoroughly and divide into six e(|ual parts, one part to be given

204 HORSE SENSE.

in the feed each night, to regulate the digestion. If it is an old chronic
case ,it may be followed by the following:

Powdered goldenseal I ounce

Powdered gentian I ounce

Powdered balmony i ounce

Flaxseed meal V2 pound

Mix and divide into six parts, giving one night and morning in the
feed. The legs should be well hand-rubbed daily and if this does not
reduce the swelling, the following may be used as a liniment:

Essence of cedar 2 ounces

Tincture capsicum I ounce

New rum i pint

Mix and bathe the legs well every night, or for a little stronger
remedy take:

Spirits ammonia ■. 2 ounces

Olive oil 8 ounces

FOOT SORE HORSES.

Linseed oil Vz pint

Spirits turpentine 4 ounces

Oil tar 6 ounces

Oil Oraganiim 6 ounces

Mix and apply all over the feet with a sponge, often.

FEVERED LEGS.

Chloride ammonia 4 ounces

Tincture asafoetida 2 drachms

Acetic acid i gallon

Mix and use one ounce to the quart of water or witch-hazel for bath-
ing the legs after a drive.

CRACKED HEELS.

Goulards' extract J4 ounce

Tannin • V2 ounce

Gum camphor J4 ounce

Charcoal i ounce

Sulphur 2 ounces

Lard Va, pound

Mix and apply to the affected parts.

REMOVAL OF WARTS.

Warts with a broad base can be removed by taking a suture needle
and threading with two strong ligatures. Pass the needle through the
base of the wart down to the skin and tie each half of the wart separately
with a surgeons knot and cut the threads close to the knots. If the work
is well done the wart will drop ofT in a short time. A wart with a small
pedicle can be removed by a single ligature, or with the Ecrasuer,

BODY WASH.

Aqua ammonia 2 ounces

Tincture opium 2 ounces

Tincture cantharides 2 ounces

Compound soap liniment i pint

Witch-hazel I pint

Rain-water i pint

Mix and use ab^ut two ounces of this to the pint of rain-water, to be

HORSE SENSE. 205

used after scraping out the horse at the termination of a very heated
drive. This should be used quickly, rubbing into the hair thoroughly
over the loin, shoulders and quarters and then walk the horse under
blankets or rub dry. It will leave the hair in fine condition and have
a tendency to tone the skin and take out the soreness of the muscles.
This will make enough for about twenty-five to thirty washings.

DISINFECTANTS FOR WOUNDS.

That it is necessary in veterinary science, as well as in the human.
to give great attention to the disinfection of all wounds, there is no
longer any question. If the bacteria can be kept out of wounds we have
little or no trouble in the healing process. But once the wound becomes
thoroughly infected, then the process of rapid recovery is arrested, and
sloughing is apt to follow. A i per cent solution of mercuric chlorid is
sufficient to destroy the bacilli, and will be found useful in the treatment
of almost all character of wounds and aid in rapid healing.

CHARCOAL TAR.

Charcoal tar is useful about wounds as antiseptic and especially in
diseases of the feet of animals. #

SUGAR AS AN ANTISEPTIC.

Powdered sugar (pure) is an excellent remedy for strongly granu-
lating wounds, and acts as a dryer, and aids in forming a scab, under
which healthy granulations have a chance to form, as well as acting as
a barrier against microbes getting into the wound. It can be dusted into
the wound with little or no trouble and where there is but little supura-
tion it is just as well to let the wound alone.

FENCE WIRE CUTS.

Probably no other one thing gives the farmers of the country more
trouble than the wounds from barb-wire fences. Almost all these cuts
are across the muscular fiber and it is (as a rule) but little use to stitch
them up, on account of the muscular contractions of the skin of the
horse. As a rule it is far better to let them alone than to treat them in
the usual way; with harsh stimulating and destructive preparations —
operating against nature's efiforts — tearing down tissue faster than it can
be manufactured, annoying the animal to no purpose, etc., etc. Pure
charcoal tar around the wound to protect the borders, and powdered
sugar dashed into the wound (if it is self draining) and let the horse have
exercise, is as much as is beneficial. In fact if the horse is at pasture,
and he is so he can get about at all, it is better to let him alone entirely,
than to put him into a foul stable and wash and torment the horse with
daily treatment. For twenty years we have had from twenty to over one
hundred head of horses running in pastures surrounded with wire fences,
and as a consequence more or less of them were injured, and in the be-
ginning we gave ourselves any amount of work and worry, and had many
bad scars. We have learned to almost entirt-ly let them alone, and the
scars now from wire cuts are scarcely perceptable.

206 HORSE SENSE.

SCRATCHES.

Sugar of lead. 2 drachms

Sulphate of zinc i drachm

Infusion of oak bark i pint

This is a mild and useful application for scratches where the horse
is not otherwise diseased. Cleanse out the affected parts and bathe
thoroughly with this wash and bandage. Use no grease.

ANOTHER FOR SCRATCHES.

Blue vitriol i^ ounce

Alum 3 drachms

Water i pi„t

This is a strong application and should not be used until other has
failed, and the health of the horse taken into consideration.

WASH FOR OLD SORES.

Sulphate of copper 2 drachms

Water i pint

This is good for stimulating and cleansing out old sores that are
difificult to heal.

WASH FOR MANGE.

Tobacco 2 ounces

Salt (common) '. 3 ounces

Bar soap 2 ounces

First boil the tobacco in one quart of water and strain. Then add the
soap cut up fine and then the salt. Wash the affected parts daily for ten
days. Or for a day or two, and then in three or four days, and keep it
up for two weeks. This will also kill lice.

GREASE HEEL.

Sulphate of copper 2 drachms

Alum 2 drachms

Water I pint

Keep the parts as clean as possible and bathe with this lotion. Avoid
any greasy preparations.

THRUSH.

This is a disease of the feet, in the cleft of the frog. With gelding^^
and stallions, it often attacks the front feet, and in mares the hind feet,
from the moisture and filth of the stable generally. It is detected by
moisture of the parts, with an offensive smell. If there is much destruc-
tion of the frog, all the ragged portions should be cut away, the foot
thoroughly washed with tar soap and warm water, and the cleft or cracks
well filled with dry calomel. If badly affected, this dressing should be
applied every day; but if only a mild case, it may remain for three or
four days without repeating. Sometimes the condition of the blood of
the animal will require constitutional treatment.

Some use a weak solution of blue vitrol, others butter of antimony
and other salts. A good compound for thrush is made by taking one
ounce each of red precipitate, blue vitriol and powdered white sugar
and half an ounce of burnt alum, mix and apply to the affected frog.

HORSE SENSE. 207

BAD THRUSH.

Barbadocs tar i ounce

Ail of turpentine i ounce

Oil vitriol i drachm

Mix the first two carefully and then add the vitriol. The parts should
be carefully cleansed and then the remedy applied. Should be used about
every third day until the offensive smell has disappeared, and looks gen-
erally better.

FOR SPLINT.

Camphorated spirits of wine 2 ounces

Oil of turpentine Yz ounce

Oil oraganum Yi ounce

Mix and apply to the afifected parts night and morning for a few
days, or until a moisture is noticed and then wait a few days and then
repeat.

FOR ITCHING HUMOR.

Oil tar 2 ounces

Oil turpentine 2 ounces

Seal oil 2 ounces

Alix and apply to the itching places once every second day for two
or three times and then wash. Repeat if necessary.

LICE ON HORSES.

All young horses that do not appear to be doing well, even on good'
feed, should be carefully examined in the bright sunlight, by parting the
hair on the shoulders, side of the body, along the back, under the mane,
and about the root of the tail, for the presence of lice. If found, take
a whisp broom, dip it in an open dish or pan containing kerosene, whip^
oflf the surplus kerosene, and draw or brush along the back, shoulders-
and sides of the horse, without wetting the hair excessively. Repeat
in two weeks to kill the newly hatched crop, as the first application wiH
not kill the nits. In cold weather, gasoline will answer a better purpose,
from its rapid evaporation, and is generally preferable to kerosene or
insect powder.

COLLAR AND SADDLE GALLS.

Wash thoroughly with castile or tar soap and warm soft water, rub-
bing the soap well into the parts afifected, handling gently, and allow the
lather to remain until dry; then apply any simple astringent wash, such as
a decoction of oak bark, witch hazel, etc. Fifteen parts of glycerine with
one part of carbolic acid is also effective. Twenty grains of sulphate
of zinc in an ounce of water is a very good application.

CARRIAGE TOP DRESSING.

Oil sassafras Y2 ounce

Gum camphor Y2 ounce

Lamp black 1/ ounce

Rosin xY ounces

Gum shellac 3 ounces

Wood alcohol i pint

Mix and use with a brush, keep well corked and shake before using.
The shellac should be first cut with the alcohol, then add the gum

208 HORSE SENSE.

camphor, then the rosin (powdered) and then the other ingredients.
This makes an excellent dressing. By leaving out the lamp black it can
be used for fair leather or tan shoes.

KEROSENE EMULSION FOR HARNESS.

Take one bar of good strong washing soap, dissolve in a quart of
water and bring to boiling, then add one pint of kerosene oil, and stir
the whole until it combines to make a creamy emulsion. Have a tub of
warm water, into which mix the emulsion, and into this place the harness
and let it soak some time; then with a stiff brush rub and brush the straps
thoroughly and they will come clean very easily. Let the leather dry a
little, until it seems dry on the outside, and then apply the harness oil;
either neatsfoot or fish oil. To make the leather black, m.ix a little lamp
black up with about one-fifth as much kerosene as harness oil and mix
together and then give the leather a good oiling. Old straps which were
so brittle as to crack seriously when bent are restored to their original
softness and pliability by this treatment. If a new harness is treated
twice a year in this way it will always keep soft and in good order. For
fixing leather carriage tops it is necessary to wash over several times
with the emulsion to get it damp enough to oil; then apply the oil as in
the case of the harness.

CARE OF HARNESS.

The care of harness has a great deal to do with its appearance and
lasting qualities. Before oiling the harness should be all taken apart
and thoroughly washed with warm water, castile soap and a brush or
cloth. When nearly dry apply "neatsfoot" oil with a sponge or woolen
rag, and such parts as are exposed to the perspiration of the horse and
mud, should have an additional application of oil. We should never hang
the oiled harness near the hot stove or in the hot sun to dry. It should
be kept in a room of moderate temperature until the oil has effectually
penetrated the leather.

MAKE THE HARNESS LOOK LIKE NEW WHEN OILING.

To make the harness look like new when oiling we have "-only to
clean the leather thoroughly when washing, and then add to one pint of
"neatsfoot" oil a tablespoonful of lamp black and one or two ounces of
melted bees-wax and stir thoroughly when adding these two to the oil.

SPONGING THE HARNESS.

To keep the harness clean and looking nicely, we have only to sponge
or wipe the harness with castile or black harness soap and a very little
water, as often as the harness is gummed or dusty. This can be done
quickly and it adds very much to the appearance and lasting qualities.
HANGING THE HARNESS IN THE STABLE.

The harness should always be hung in such part of the stable as not
to be exposed to the fumes of ammonia generated by the manure. This
will injure the leather of the harness more than its every day use. You

HORSE SENSE. 209

will always know the effect on the leather from ammonia from the whitish
appearance of the leather and the rapidity of the stifeniny of the leather —
it soon loses its pliability.

HANGING UP THE HARNESS AFTER BEING IN A RAIN
STORM.

Whenever we come in the stable after getting the harness soaking
wet, we should be very careful how we hang it up to dry, because leather
drying out of form always weakens it at the places where the leather is
bent out of its usual shape. Either hang the harness all straightened
out or lay it carefully straightened on the floor, and when partially dry
sponge it off with castile soap.

CHAPTER XL

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.

The following questions and answers are a compilation of some of
the many questions that have been asked and answered in connection
with the Farmers" Institute work of Minnesota, by good veterinary
authority, in relation to those that pertain to disease, etc., the others
by the author.

ANSWERED BY THE AUTHOR.

Would not the method of tying the horse by the tail to make him
pull be considered inhuman treatment in fly and mosquito season?

Ans. Yes; it would if the horse was expected to go a long distance
tied in that way by the tail. But a few rods work hitched by the tail will,
generally, be sufficient to satisfy him that he had rather pull the load by
his shoulders, and have the use of his tail for his protection against flies
and mosquitoes. Be sure, however, that you do not get your horse angry
and disposed to "sulk" before you hitch him by the tail, or he may not
go at all.

At what age is it best to break a young colt to the halter — and how?

Ans. When ten days or two weeks old is about the best time to
begin his education to the halter, and the best method is fully represented
in connection with cut No. 29.

What age is best to harness and drive the colt?

Ans. This is also well represented and illustrated in cuts No. 30
and 31.

How would you handle all vicious and tricky horses?

Ans. To answer this question satisfactorily would require more
time and space than is allowed here, and we would refer all those in-
terested to chaptersXXXIII and XXXIV.

How do you account for so many of our horses of the present day
having bad legs?

Ans. The principle cause is the use of stallions and mares for breed-
ing purposes that have defective legs. Stallions have the power to trans-
mit their defects as well as mares (if not more) and when both are de-
fective in like manner we could not reasonably expect perfect foals.
Nature abhors incongruities — the perfect cannot be produced from the
inherited imperfect.

Have you any method that you consider good for the care and
wintering of stallions?

Ans. Yes; you will find this subject considered at length in chap-
ter VIII.

HORSE SENSE. 211

What do you consider the best treatment for "scours" in a young
colt without giving much medicine?

Ans. In our long experience with many foals every spring we have
found that proper care of the dam to be the best treatment for "scours."
The general cause of this trouble is a too copious flow of milk, usually
from the mare drinking large quantities of water, which is easily remedied
by giving only small draughts of water at a tirne and cutting down on
the grain ration for a short time, and the "scours" soon disappear. But
as long as the mare drinks large quantities of water and is richly fed, the
chances are that the colt will not improve in condition. A dose of castor
oil may be given to the colt.

What is the proper care of the colt's feet before he reaches the age
for shoeing, for the best results for the future of the horse?

Ans. Be sure and trim the feet often and keep them as nearly level
as possible all around, so as not to have the bearing unequal on the
sides, not too long at the toe, or the heels so high as not to get good
"frog" pressure, is the surest method of keeping the feet in proper shape
for the best results for the future horse.

Do you approve of the blacksmith cutting away the "sole" and "bars"
of the horse's feet preparatory to shoeing?

Ans. No, indeed; the thinner the "sole" is pared and the more the
"bars" are cut away, the sooner the horse will sufifer from dryness of the
feet and consequent contraction, bruises, corns, etc.

Is it a good practice to rasp away the outside horn of the horse's
foot up as high as the nails clinch to make a nice, smooth job in shoeing?

Ans. The outside glossy coating of the horse's foot is nature's pro-
tection for the preservation of the moisture of the foot, and the more
rasping is done the more exposure, and consequently the greater danger
of drying and shrinking up of the horse's feet. Elasticity is needed in the
feet as well as other parts of the body, but not to the same degree, yet
if the moisture of the feet is allowed to escape by rasping and cutting
at the feet unnecessarily, the more danger there is to the inside structures
being injured. Keep the feet as nearly natural as possible in conformation,
■with good, strong "bars," "soles" and elastic "frog" and the liability to
lameness will be very much lessened.

What is the relative value of a springy or oblique "pastern" over
a straight or upright "pastern?"

Ans. That would depend somewhat on the usage of the horse.
AVhile a springy "pastern" is always preferable to an upright one, the
road horse must have springy "pasterns" or soon go sore (unless he is
a very low gaited horse). More lameness results from straight inelastic
"pasterns" than any other cause (excepting accidents). The heavier the
road horse with upright "pasterns" the sooner and more surely will he
sufifer.

Do you think the rigid use of a "bitting harness" good for colts be-
fore they go into harness practice?

Ans. No: it too often "sours" the disposition, cramps the muscles
of the neck, injures the mouth and frequently spoils an otherwise good

212 HORSE SENSE.

and useful horse. We have no objection to putting a bit into the colt's
mouth, but to check his head up high and fasten the side straps rigidly
is certainly a pernicious practice. If the "bitting harness" is to be used
let the bit loosely in the mouth and check and side straps "slack."

What remedy would you recommend for pin worms in horses and
colts?

Ans. Injections of aloes in solution, one ounce of aloes to a gallon
of water, once a week for two weeks.

How is wheat for feed for horses?

Ans. Very good, if fed ground; mixed with ground oats it is better.

How shall I prevent a horse from rolling over in the stall and getting
cast so he cannot get up?

Ans. Tie him so short that he cannot lay his head fiat on the floor
of his stall, or fasten a pully in the ceiling with weight that will do the
same.

What good is a check-rein and blinders?

Ans. The check-rein is really of no value further than to prevent
the horse from getting his head to the ground when stopped, or tied to
post, or other fastening; and sometimes to prevent him being too playful
when first starting out. The blinders are useful in driving "shirky,"
tricky horses, or where one is free and the other lazy and watching the
driver.

Why do people use the cruel overhead check-rein tight for ordinary
driving?

Ans. Because it is the fashion, and the drivers or owners do not
f realize how much discomfort they are giving their mute friends by its
use. If they could fully understand how much suffering our horses were
enduring for our comfort and pleasure, the overhead check-rein would
never be used tight — especially on straight-shouldered horses — or long
at a time, in any case, or never when left to stand or hitched to the
post. Always lengthen out the overhead check for a long drive and
whenever stopped.

Is there any way to prevent a biting horse from biting?

Ans. We think so; by the use of the safety bridle represented in this
book, and by feeding him from the hand what he most relishes, making
him first believe that we are not afraid of him, by the safety bridle, and,,
also, that we are his best friend. Don't hurt him when in immediate
contact with him; but, if he attempts to bite, pull on the rope, and he
bites himself instead of the object aimed at, and, we assure you, he will
soon comprehend the situation.

How do you prevent a horse from crowding his keeper in the stall?

Ans. By the means shown in chapter XXX, cuts Nos. 52 and 53.

How do you make a horse hold up his head?

Ans. If the horse has a sloping shoulder, he will hold his head well
up, naturally, if well fed. If his shoulder is straight, and his neck set
low, it is very hard for him to hold his head high. By the use of the
check-rein, the head can be gradually raised, by degrees, without very
great inconvenience to the horse, and. in time, his style of carriage can

HORSE sp:nse. 213

be improved. But too many of our would-be useful horses have been
"soured," made balky, contracting the pernicious habit of pulling on the
bit. and many other faults, by tiie use and abuse of the check-rein (of
any character) in trying to make high-headed horses of them from the
beginning of their harness experience. Natural style in harness is
nature's graceful curves, but man's devices for the purpose often fall far
short of the object attained.

How can I prevent a horse from "bucking" when he is determined to
"buck" me off?

Ans. The use of the persuader, is as applicable in saddle as harness
work, and can be handled from the back of the horse in taking up one
front foot, as when behind him; and the horse makes a "sorry" job of
bucking on three legs. Besides, he can be given the use of all his legs
at any instant, or deprived, as may be desired.

What can I do to teach a horse to back?

Ans. This is fully explained at Cut. No. 63.

You spoke here of how to hitch a team on the prairie so they could
feed and could be found near where they were left without a post or
tether. How is it done?

Ans. This is explained and illustrated in chapter XXX H, cut No. 70.

How shall I manage a horse that is troublesome to shoe?

Ans. This is represented and shown in chapter XXXII, cut No. "jz.

How can I break my horse from pulling on the halter?

Ans. See chapter XXX, cuts Nos. 60 and 61.

What do you consider the best methods of handling the "Broncho,"
from the beginning, for a useful and safe horse?

Ans. We devoted considerable space to this subject, under the head-
ing of "Controlling the Actions of the Horse by His Tail," chapter
XXXI. By reading this matter carefully, and complying with the de-
tails, we believe you will succeed beyond your expectations; but don't
hurt him, if possible, under any circumstances, and remember that the
medium of the stomach is the most direct route to his affections.

What is the best method of separating colts, at weaning time, from
their dams?

Ans. As we have often said before, we prefer putting two together
in box stalls, for company for each other, but, if we had but one, we
would prefer to wean it beside the dam, by tying it in such a manner that
it could not get its mother's milk.

What is the best feed for colts the first winter?

Ans. We prefer to commence with weaning on skimmed cow's milk
(the separator preferred), by letting them go from eight to twelve hours
after taking from the dam, before offering them anything; then approach
them with a little warm sweetened skim-milk in a shallow pan, and watch
the opportunity to suddenly lift the pan, so as to immerse the colt's nose
into the milk, and take it away, letting the colt have a chance to taste
the milk on its lips, when it may be repeated, and, as the colt is thirsty,
it will generally take to drinking, when the trouble, ever after, is at an
end. In a few days we make an addition to its ration of milk. We give

214 HORSE SENSK.

a little oil meal, and begin feeding a very little ground oats and bran,
which we increase in quantity as its appetite craves, and the amount of
exercise will justify. It is not good to feed colts all they will often eat,
unless they have the liberty to take plenty of exercise. Well cured c'.over
hay is, also, an excellent feed for colts the first winter.

What do you think of wild hay as feed for horses?

Ans. Together with a good grain ration, wild hay, to the amount
of ten to fifteen pounds per day, we regard as excellent for horses at
work. Too many farmers feed far more hay than is good for horses.
Hay, like grain, should be fed as a ration, eaten up clean, and then wait
until the next meal.

Is ground barley good horse feed?

Ans. Ground barley is much like corn in quality, but stock of all
kinds become tired of it as a continuous feed. Horses, like people, like
variety; and should have it.

Does it hurt a horse to give him water when he is warm if we do
rot let him stand?

Ans. No; unless he is very thirsty, and it is soon after he has had
his ration of feed; and then it is more apt to produce colic than affect
him otherwise.

How much water should a horse have at one time?

Ans. As the capacity of the horse's stomach is only about three
and one-half gallons, it is not best to give more than that amount at any
one time. We always prefer to water horses before feeding, and then
the water will pass along into the bowels when the grain ration is fed;
whereas, if he is fed before water is given, the food is forced into the
bowels before the stomach has performed its part of the digestion, and
derangement is too apt to follow.

Can a farmer raise colts and profit by them at the present prices?

Ans. That depends largely on the character of colts to be raised.
If the farmer has the breeding stock to produce first-class horses of ai:y
of the three classes, viz., draught, carriage or road horses, we say he can,
provided he gives them the same care and attention that is required to
make a success in any other department of farming.

What is the best thing to do with a horse easily frightened?

Ans. This is usually due to an extreme nervous irritability, to a lack
of intelligence, harsh treatment or defective eyes. The only available
treatment is kind, uniform treatment; usually a mild bit, properly ad-
justed harness, sometimes open bridle works better, and on some horses
a blind bridle is more satisfactory. Little can be done if the eyes are
defective.

CHAPTER XLI.

ANSWERED BY DR. M. H. REYNOLDS. STATE VETERINA-
RIAN. ST. ANTHONY PARK, MINN.

Question, (i) What is a good grain for a hard-working horse to
keep him in marketable condition? (2) For an idle horse? (3) What
is the best kind of hay for horses? (4) Can sweeny be cured, and if so,
how? A. (i) For each i,coo pounds live weight, fifteen pounds oats,
twelve pounds hay, clover or timothy, four to six pounds of bran, if con-
venient, for twenty-four hours. Allow two pounds of water for each
pound of dry feed. (2) Fifteen pounds of hay, with half the grain if the
horse is already fat. (3) Clover or timothy. (4) Yes. usually, if the
horse is not lame, by persistent irritation, e. g., severe and repeated blis-
ters, setons or hand rubbing, with exercise.

Question. What can I do for a .four-year-old colt which got kicked
on the hock-cap, and an enlargement remains a month later? A. Blis-
ter with red iodide of mercury, one part, and lard or cosmoline, six parts,
well mixed. Repeat in four weeks if necessary. The prospect for satis--
factory results is fair, but not sure. Prevent the horse from biting the
part while the blister is smarting.

Question. W'hat causes a number of young colts to die within a few
days after birth? They seem to be lacking in vitality from the moment
of birth. A. The fault may be with the sire, or it may be with the dam.
She may be fat and soft, or poor and weak. The trouble may be with
the mother's food, and the cause may lie with the undetermined cause of
epidemic abortions. Only a careful examintion will show the cause in
any given case.

Question. Can benzine or gacoline be used with safety to kill lice
on horses, and how? A. Yes. Put a little on a whisk broom, or any
brush, and brush through the hair.

Question. How would you treat thrush in horses' feet? A. Cut
off all the diseased frog, scrape out the cleft and crevices with a hoof
knife, and pour a little 95 per cent carbolic acid over the diseased frog
every morning after cleaning out. Avoid filthy stables.

Question. What is the cause of heaves in horses, and how can they
be cured? A. Heaves are caused by overfeeding in coarse, dusty foods.
There is no hope for advanced cases. In early stages turn out to grass
for five or six months; afterwards feed but little hay. Sprinkle both hay
and grain if dusty.

Question. Is there any cure for poll evil? A. Yes, but these cases
usually require continued treatment by a skillful veterinarian.

216 HORSE SENSE.

Question. How can a spavin or ringbone be cured? A. The lame-
ness may usually be cured by repeated blisters or well-done firing; but
the enlargement will remain in spite of any satisfactory treatment that
has yet been devised.

Question. What is good for colts troubled with lice? A. Corn,
oats, bran and hay, aided by gasoline used carefully as in above. Kero-
sene and soft soap emulsion, or Persian insect powder dusted in the hair
on neck, withers and back.

Question. Do you recommend feeding good oat straw to idle
horses? A. Yes; clean oat straw makes a very good coarse food for
horses, whether working or idle. When working, the horse needs a little
more grain than when fed on clover and timothy hay.

Question. Do wolf teeth make horses blind? A. No. Leave them
alone.

Question. What is the cause and proper treatment of colic? A.
Anything that interferes with the digestive processes, in the whole or
any portion of the alimentary canal, may cause an attack of colic, e. g.,
sudden changes from dry to green food or the reverse, watering after
eating grain, finely, ground corn meal, unmixed, excessive feeding of
hay, full drink of very cold water when horse is warm, or feeding when
horse is very tired, and some cases are probably due to the presence of
parasitic worms in certain arteries that furnish blood to the intestines.

Question. I have a three-year-old colt which has a whitish colora-
tion or change in the pupil of the eye with the full of the moon, and then
goes blind. About five days later the spot leaves and the eyesight re-
turns. What is the trouble? A. This is evidently a case of periodic
ophthalmia, and the patient will probably go blind. Treatment would
not be apt to give good satisfaction.

Question. Is cob meal ground with oats good feed for horses? A.
Yes, but the cob should be ground fine — not merely crushed.

Question. How is millet, for feed, for working horses, when ground
and mixed with bran? A. There is some dispute among veterinarians
and feeders, over this point; but the majority of those who have studied
the matter and had large experience in feeding millet agree that it is a
safe and valuable food for horses if cut early.

Question, (i) Is barley good feed for growing colts? (2) How
about barley straw for horses? A. (i) Barley is nearly equal to corn
for > horse-feed, but it should be crushed. {2) Barley straw is less
nutritious than oat straw, and the beards cause a great deal of trouble
to horses mouths.

Question. Which would you feed first to horses — hay or grain? A.
The ideal way to feed a horse is first water, second hay, third grain, but
the difference between this and grain first and hay second, as horses
usually eat, is not very decided. A few horses will eat grain and hay
together, which is possibly better still. The old street car system of feed-
ing horses, by cutting hay or straw, wetting it, and mixing the ground
grain, was a very safe and very economical system of feeding horses on

HORSE SENSE. 217

a large scale. By this system the Ium-sc was compelled to eat the hay
and grain together.

Question. How can I dispose of bleeding tumor on the joint oi the
hind foot near the fetlock? A. Touch the bleeding surface with the
point of a red hot iron, in case it does not come nearer than within an
inch of the hoof, otherwise dust powdered iron sulphate over the surface.

Question. What would you do with a horse that has lampers, and
what is the cause of the same? A. Lampers is to be regarded frequently
merely as a symptom of disease rather than in itself as a diseased con-
dition. It may be caused by anything that would irritate the mucous
membrane of the mouth, changes in the teeth, but more often by dis-
turbance in the stomach and intestines. The only treatment that is ad-
visable is scarifying the mucous membrane over the swoolen parts with
a sharp pen knife, being careful not to cut too deep for serious bleeding
may follow a deep cut at a certain place.

Question. Are the so-called condition powders, which are offered
by dealers, of any real value to the horse when fed? A. I have very
little confidence in patent medicines of any kind, especially the average
condition powders which we find on the market for stock.

Question. Is it hurtful to water a horse while warm? A. It all
depends on how cold the water and how much of it. I think horses never
get so hot that a little cold water will injure them. How inuch they
shall have depends on how hot the horse and how cold the water.

Question. Can ringbones or spavins be taken off without firing
or blistering or injury to the horse? A. I think not.

Question. What shall I do for a horse that has bone spavin just
forming? A. Blister over the spavin with tincture or cantharidcs. or
have him fired by a competent veterinarian.

Question. Will all horses of the same live weight do equally well on
the same amount of food? A. Certainly not. Some horses require
much more food for the same amount of work than others of similar
weight.

Question. Is it economy to cook the food for horses? A. I think
not, except it be for an old family pet with poor teeth.

Question. How often shall I feed my horse that is a hard worker?
A. Three times a day or five times a day if it can be done.

Question. How should horses for farm work be fed? A. Water
first, always. Grain and hay next and together. Only so much hay
as a horse will clean up in a reasonable time. If the hay is dusty it should
be sprinkled. A reasonable amount of grain, according to the size of
the horse and the amount of work, should be given.

Question. Is there any harm in feeding horses a quantity of salt ta
last them a week? A. No especial harm, but a decidedly better way is-
to keep it before them all the time.

Question. What shall I do for a horse that has scratches, or grease
heel of three years' standing? A. Take him to a veterinarian.

Question. Would you consider wheat good to feed a marc with

218 HORSE SENSE.

foal? A, A small amount of wheat crushed, or coarsely ground, may
be a valuable addition to her diet.

Question. What is the best bit for a hard-mouthed horse? A.
Frequently a very easy bit and uniformly kind treatment will work
wonders for a puller. There are quite a number of severe bits which
commend themselves for certain horses, such as the Jay Eye See bit, Suc-
cess, Imperial and Rockwell; anything but the double jointed, twisted
wire bit.

Question. What shall I do to get the lice off a colt? A. In cold
weather use pyrethreum or Persian insect powder along the neck and
back. Repeat every six days till the lice disappear. In warm weather
us kerosene emulsion made in the following proportions, more or less as
needed: One gallon of water, one pound laundry soap; boil till dis-
solved. Add, while hot and away from the lire, two gallons kerosene.
For use, take one pint of this emulsion for three gallons of cold water.
Wash colt thoroughly with this diluted mixture; or preferably gasoline.

Question. What should be done in a case of sore eyes in a horse ap-
pearing at different intervals; one sore one week, and heal, and then the
other sore? A. What is the cause? A. I cannot tell. This may be
either periodical ophthalmia (moon blindness) or a symptom of influenza.
The former is probably incurable and usually results in blindness. The
latter usually disappears under treatment.

Question. My colts rub their tails. What causes it? A. Either
lice at the root of the tail or pin worms in the rectum. For the former,
use kerosene emulsion. If due to the latter, give injection of quassia
lea, followed by a dose of raw linseed oil; enough to physic.

Question. Will a horse that has been paralyzed on one side ever
be able to work again? A. He may or he may not. It depends on the
location and extent of the disease.

Question. What would you do for collar galls? A. Relieve from
work if possible. Otherwise remove pressure from sore place by ad-
justing sweat pad or collar. Dust over the raw surface the following
mixture: Boracic acid, iodiforni and tannic acid; equal part by weight.

Question. Do you approve of allowing colts the first winter to have
oats to eat at their will, or feed what they will eat up clean three times
a day? A. I think the latter is the proper way to feed any horse.

Question. How would yoti treat a horse that has mange? "A.
Scrub the diseased surface with brush, soap and warm, soft water until
all the scaly material is removed. Then use a lotion made in the follow-
ing proportions: Water, one quart; carbolic acid, (95 per cent) one
ounce; acetic acid (glacial), two ounces. Apply every third day until
cured, or skin becomes very sore. In the latter case stop treatment for
a few days, then begin again.

Question. What is the cause of lameness in the forelegs of a horse
confined in the stable in the winter time? A. It may be due to any one
of several causes, more frequently, perhaps, to contracted hoof caused
by horses standing on dry floor, either shod with high toe and heel calks
or barefoot, and the wall of the hoof allowed to grow down till frog does

HORSE SENSE. 219

not touch the lloor. Remove the shoes or trim down the hoof until the
frog rests upon the Hoor; that is, the frog surface must be below the level
of the sole. At the same time use some oil or hoof ointment to soften the
hoof.

Question. What makes horses that are well fed gnaw feed-boxes,
mangers and everything around them? Is there any help for it? A.
They either get too much grain or too little coarse food, and sometimes
horses gnaw the mangers and feed-boxes because they do not get
sufificient exercise and have little better to do. Tack sheep skin over the
manger with wool on, or cover with tin.

Question. Will a horse do well on good wheat and oat straw, half
and half? How much grain should he have with it to balance it? How
much at a meal? The grains are oats or corn. Which is best? A. I
do not like wheat straw for horses, except it be cut quite green. Oat
straw, if it be clean and bright, is much better. About the same propor-
tion as with prairie hay, more or less, in quantity, according to the size
of the horse and kind of work. Both are good. Clean, heavy oats is
probably the best single grain for horses, although I think corn is fre-
quently underrated by feeders.

Question. A horse has been troubled for one year with white, round
worms about two inches long. Have tried several remedies. Can you
give me a sure one? A. First, give him a pint and a half to a quart of
raw linseed oil. Allow very little or no hay during the period of treat-
ment. Give daily, two ounces turpentine in one pint raw linseed oil
for four days. Close treatment, with a rather severe physic, as for ex-
ample, the first dose of linseed oil, unless very free action has already
been established by the continued doses of linseed oil, in which case the
cleansing dose is unnecessary. The essential point in this treatment is.
first, to thoroughly empty the bowels and then keep them from filling up
by allowing little or no hay; and, lastly, the continued treatment by
turpentine. The only satisfactory way to treat these parisites is by con-
tinued treatment. One or two doses of any single medicine is not usually
satisfactory.

CHAPTER XLII.

ANSWERED BY DR. S. D. BRLMHALL, ASSISTANT STATE
VETERINARIAN. MINNEPOLIS, MINN.

Question. Have a horse that is bothered with contracted hoof? A.
Contraction of the foot (hoof bound) is the more or less marked con-
traction of the posterior parts of the foot. There are two kinds, true and
false. In true contraction, the quai^ters, as well as the heels, are high and
narrow — often called mule foot. As a consequence of the compression
caused by the contracted heels and quarters, the sole becomes more
concave and the frog, in a great measure, becomes shrunken. The causes
are numerous, but all can be traced to one of two factors — drying of the
horn, or some interference with its normal elasticity.

Treatment: Keep the heels and quarters pared down so that there"
will be a good frog pressure at all times, and keep the hoof moist; also
prevent drying out by the use of vaseline. If the contraction is very
great, and the horse is lame, it would be well to thin the wall at heels
and quarters to allow them to expand more readily.

Question. What treatment would you recommend for a horse that
has Sweeney in both shoulders slightly, caused by too large a collar, more
than a year ago? A. Sweeney is often due to prolonged lameness of the
feet. If the horse is lame try to determine the cause. A slight shrink-
ing of the shoulder muscles seldom afifects the usefulness of the animal.
Medical treatment is rarely satisfactory in cases of so long standing.

Question. How would you treat a ringbone that has been on about
six months, swollen in the first joint of the hind foot? A. Blister
thoroughly by rubbing in the following ointment every ten days: Tie the
horse so that he cannot get his mouth to the blister: Red iodide of
mercury, one dram; pulverized cantharis, one drachm; vaseline, six
drachms.

Question. What would you do for a mare that has heaves? A.
Feed sparingly of coarse feed and be sure that all feed is clean, sweet
and free from dust. Moistening the feed with lime water is often of
advantage. Never feed hay which has not been perfectly cured. Badly
cured hay will irritate the stomach and the nerve which supplies the lungs
and stomach, thus producing a cough, which, if continued, will cause
heaves.

Question. Describe glanders. A. Glanders and farcy are one and
the same disease. The term farcy has been applied to the disease when
th principle manifestation is an outbreak of the sores on the skin of the

HORSE SENSE. 221

animal, but internal lesions always exist and can be seen on post mortem.
Glanders is a contagious constitutional disease of the horse, ass and mule,
and is readily communicable to man, sheep, goats, the dog, the cat, the
rabbit and guinea pig. It runs a variable course, lasting from a few
weeks to several years. It is subject to various complications of the
lymphatic glands, of the lungs, of the testicles, of the internal organs
and the subcutaneous connective tissues.

The essential symptoms are the enlarged lymphatic glands and cords,
and ulcers on mucous membrane of nose. Farcy buds or ulcers in the
skin, and the characteristic discharge is from nose and sores. A horse
which has a chronic discharge from the nose should always be looked
upon with suspicion. This suspicion can be removed or confirmed by the
mallein test.

CHAPTER XLIII.

ANSWERED BY DR R. M. DODDS. MANKATO, MINN.

Question. I have a mare that has a running sore on lower jaw,
caused by ulcerated tooth, what can I do for it? A. Have the ulcerated
tooth extracted by a competent man. He may have to trephine the
jaw to obliterate the fistula.

Question. What is best to do for a horse whose shoulder has become
puffed and swollen, and has been opened; it still remains swollen, but no
discharge. A. Open it up thoroughly by a free incision of knife to
bottom of tumor, and dress daily with a saturated solution of chlorid
of zinc. If it is necessary to work the animal cut out a portion of sweat
pad over tumor.

Question. What is the correct treatment for azoturia? A. As pre-
vention is always better than cure, advice should be given in that direc-
tion. Horses regularly worked and fed are never the subjects of this mal-
ady. If you have no work for your horses, turn them out for exercise, al-
ways cutting down their feed. Dr. Reynolds, Experimental Farm, St.
Anthony Park, has prepared an excellent treatise on this disease, which
it will be well foi you to send to him for. You will find it the most
practical exposition of the subject, both canst and treatment, in the
English language.

Question. How much hay does a 1,000-pound horse require? A. It
will depend on circumstances entirely — the kind of horse and the duty
required of him.

Question. What is the best liniment for barb wire cuts? A. Raw
linseed oil, one pint; carbolic acid, one ounce. Keep the wounds satu-
rated all the time with this. Will do in all kinds of conditions and
weather.

Question. I have a colt, coming two years old, that has puffs on
hock joints, both in front and on each side. Both hind legs are alike,
is not lame, colt is quite large of its age. What will be best to do for it,
or will it come out all right? A. Considering that the colt is a
growthy fellow it will be better to let it alone, as it is most likely
dropsical and will probaby disappear with age and careful usage.

Question. I have a horse that has a lump, or soft, puffy enlarge-
ment, inside of the fore pastern joint. What can I do to get rid of it? A.
What you describe as a lump, or soft, puffy enlargement, inside the
pastern joint, is probably nothing but a so-called wind gall in the sheath
of the flexor tendon. It is not apt to cause lameness, and since it is

HORSE SENSE. 223

small it i? be?t left alone. May be your blacksmith has pared away too
much of the quarters, or has allowed the toes to grow too long; or else
you have allowed the flexor tendons to become too much strained by
too fast or too long continued drives.

Question. What constitutes a bog spavin? I have a mare that
has an enlargement on hock joint that my neighbors say is bog spavin.
She is not lame. I would like to take the bunch of¥ if possible. A. A
bog spavin, that is, an enlargement of the capsular ligament of the hock
joint, very seldom causes any lameness, and, therefore may as well be left
alone; at any rate unless the causes, usually defective mechanical pro-
portions in the hock joint and an uneciual distribution of weight and con-
cussion, can be removed. Hence, no treatment will have any lasting ef-
fect. A temporary reduction may be effected by iodine preparations —
tincture of iodine, for instance — if applied once a day for several months
in succession.

Question. I have a horse that has been lame in his left fore foot for
over a year. I have blistered his shoulder for sweeney, but it did no
good. He is as lame as ever, although I have treated him for several
months. What had I better do? A. If you will kindly inform me where
the lameness is situated, and give a lucid description of its characteristic
features, I may be able to answer your question. Meanwhile give your
horse absolute rest, or else consult a veterinarian personally.

Question. I have a valuable horse that has a running sore from his
neck. He was bit by a stallion about one year ago and it has never
healed up. What can I do? A. In the wound you describe, the bottom
is probably lower than the opening, so that the pus that is formed cannot
be discharged. The wound, therefore, is equivalent to what is usualljr
called a fistula. The facts in the case must be first ascertained by carefuE
probing. If this reveals that the bottom is lower, either the wound must
be enlarged or a lower opening must be made. If this is done, and the-
wound is kept clean and dressed twice a day with some antiseptic, say —
according to circumstances and to the condition of the wound — either
with a three or five per cent solution of carbolic acid, or with iodiform,
a healing will be effected. It is much cheaper in all cases to employ a
good veterinarian, and pay him for his services, than to lose a good
horse.

Question. What would you do with a sweeney on a three-year old
colt? A. If the colt is lame, have the foot examined and see if the
trouble is not there. If it is, the shoulder always shrinks from sympathy.
If it should be in shoulder, a rowel will be in order, left in about two
weeks.

Question. Can splints on horses be cured? If so, what is the cure?
A. If your horse is not lame from the splints, let them alone. They will
disappear by a natural process in time. If lame and near the knee joint it
will be well to apply a sharp, absorbing blister, iodine of potassium, 4
drachms; iodine, 4 scruples; mercurial ointment, 2 ounces. Mix and ap-
ply on splints once a week for three applications.

224 HORSE SENSE.

Question. What is the best remedy for scratches? A. Take a clean
rub rag and clean out heels well and apply oxide of zinc ointment. Never
wash, or as seldom as possible.

Question. What about capped elbow or shoe-boil? A. Open freely,
getting perfect drainage, wash out thoroughly, using a solution of Pot.
Permanganese; one drachm to one pint of water, once daily; apply can-
tharides blister, over the whole mass once weekly. This is the simplest
treatment. Of course in old standing cases, a surgical operation is nec-
essary, when the services of a veterinary is in order.

Question. Can swelling of the legs be cured? A. It would depend
on the cause. For ordinary swelled legs the following remedy will be
found beneficial: potassium acetate, tinct. digitalas six ounces; equal
parts; add water sufficient to make twelve ounces. Dose, one ounce every
four hours.

Question. Do wind-galls injure a horse and can they be removed?
A. If windgalls do not cause lameness, let them alone.

Question. How will the horse act with shoulder lameness? A.
This is quite a broad question, as there are three forms of shoulder lame-
ness, all of which may exist independently of each other. The gait of
shoulder lameness, is indicative of the seat of injury. The horse brings
the leg forward with a sort of half circle sweep, and in some cases the
toe is dragged along the ground. In well marked cases, in bringing the
limbs forcibly forward, the pain will be so great as to raise the front of
the animal ofif the ground.

Hot fomentations with blankets wrung out of hot water and placed
over the shoulders, with dry blankets over is indicated and should be kept
up until relief is obtained.

Question. What is the best means of removing warts? A. Keep
wart saturated with diluted acetic acid.

Question. What can be done for grease heel? A. As the trouble
arises within the body, connected with digestion, torpidity of the liver,
etc., we must remove the cause. Give seven drachms of barbedoes aloes
and one drachm of ginger, in a bolus at once. This acts on the blood
before acting on the bowels. Give also a tablespoonful of soda in every
feed, for about two weeks; then give the following: tr. ferri chlor,
(chloride of iron), liq-potas-arsen, (Fowler's solution), 12 ounces; mix
together and give one ounce of this mixture in one pint of water three
times a day. For local treatment, poultice with flaxseed meal in which a
tablespoonful of powdered charcoal is mixed. Keep up the poultices
for a couple of weeks. We prefer dry treatment after poulticing. Never
wash, but always rub dry with a towel and keep the cracks dusted with
powdered alum and golden seal, (hydrastis).

Question. What is the best remedy for scratches? A. Poultice the
afifected part with flaxseed meal, in which a tablespoonful of powdered
charcoal is mixed. Renew this poultice every day for one week; then
apply oxide of zinc ointment for another week, after which good hand
rubbing will do the finishing, unless there is constitutional trouble, in
which case use the same treatment as for grease heel.

HORSK SENSE. 225

Question. What treatinciU will relieve the lameness of ring bone?
A. Keep the toe pared short; shoe with high heel corks and use the
following counter-irritant: oil of peppermint one ounce; tincture of bella-
donna and tinct iodine, each three and a half ounces; mix and apply once
or twice a day. The most certain treatment, is firing or neurotomy.

Question. What will relieve the lameness of bone spavin? A. The
treatment for ring bone applies to this case; viz.: counter-irritants, firing
and sciatic neurotomy, are indicated.

Question. What can I do for quarter-crack? A. Proper balanc-
ing of the foot with a bar shoe, cutting out a V-shape of horn from each
side of the crack, so there will be no working of the part above or at the
coronet. Blister above the crack once a week, for three week and after-
wards treat foot as for hoof-bound.

Question. What can I do for toe crack? A. Same as for quarter
crack.

Question. What is best for a "prick" of the sole? A. In veterinary
science this designation has been given to a punctured wound, often
with laceration, sometimes with contusions, either of the sole or frog,
produced by sharp or cutting bodies; more commonly nails, upon which
the animal steps. The form of these bodies, the direction they take, the
force with which they penetrate and the parts they enter, give rise to
various lesions of varying gravity, as they are older or as the injured part
enjoys a greater sensibility. In all cases, the first indication is to get a
natural repair. Open up the wound with hoof knife to bottom; giving
always good drainage, then absolute rest, warm poultices of flaxseed meal
and a little powdered charcoal, for a few days; then cold water baths, in
which is added a little acetate of lead or even common salt. By this
treatment, the progress of the inflammation is checked and very often
-deep and serious wounds cured without injury.

Question. What can be done for corns in the horse's feet? A. As
for the curative treatment of corns, there are four indications to be ful-
filled: 1st, remove the cause; 2nd, treat the injury it has produced; 3rd,
relieve the pressure upon the diseased region; 4th, prevent the return
of the injury. Cold baths to the feet are very usejul in all cases of corns
and a bar shoe is a necessity. ^

Question. What is hoof-bound feet and the cure? A. Sometimes
"hoof-bound" is only a simple deformity without lameness and without
serious results. But in most cases it constitutes a very serious affection
which renders many horses useless and practically without value. Hoof-
bound is commonly associated with corns, navicular disease, punctured
wounds, thrush, side bones, any and all articular diseases and heredity.

Question. What is to be done with hard, dry hoofs? A. Avoid all
known causes likely to give rise to this morbid condition of the frog;
pare the foot, cutting away all the ragged parts that would cover secre-
tions that collect; exposing and thoroughly cleansing first the diseased
parts; then poultice a few times with flaxseed meal; then dress with dry-
ing powders, such as sub-acetate of lead; powdered alum and tannin.

226 HORSE SENSE.

equal parts. It is certain that in many cases, that proper shoeing is of
great advantage.

Question. What is good to remove stomach worms from the horse?
A. Give the following on an empty stomach; raw linseed oil, eight
ounces; oil of turpentine, two tablcspoonfuls; keep well mixed and ad-
minister as a drench. It may be well to repeat it in a week or two. Give
as a tonic; the following mixture: sulpliate of iron, ten drachms; gentian,.
two ounces; willow charcoal, one ounce; Jamaica ginger, one ounce.
Mix into fifteen powders and give one powder on the tongue before
meals.

APPENDIX. .

FOR YOUNG COLTS.

Note.— The illustrations used here are of "Betsy Tell," b. f., foaled April 20, 1902;
sired by Brauntel. by tlif workl renowned Axtel (sold as a three-year-old for $105,000).
Betsys kindergarten work of iustructlou began with the first hour and day of her
life, and continued with short, frequently repeated lessons for one week, and after,
■every two or three days up to thirty days old, when turned to pasture. Hundreds of
St. Paul people of all classes can testify to this little equine's remarkable advance-
ment and good behavior. Ladies and children were delighted to entertain this young
member of fashionable society on St. Anthony Hill.

The usefulness, comfort, safety and consequent value of all our
horses in the varied duties of their mature life — like that of our chil-
dren for trades, business and useful members of society during their
maturity — depends so much on their early education and training for
specific work to be performed, that kindergarten schools for our "little
tots" all over our land is now recognized as next to indispensable, that
work of a similar character with the little colts— for their future
required duties must be considered of but little less value, when we
reflect that every act, duty or labor that they perform must first be
taught so thoroughly that the animal can be relied on for a certainty
of action under all circumstances.

NATURAL LAWS OF ANIMAL LIFE.

One of the most important lessons for the educator of animals
is to thoroughly understand the natural laws of animal life: to know
for himself perfectly what is to be done and just how to do it. He
must understand the natural laws governing horses in their natural
actions— in their uneducated state. He should understand that the
perpendicular center of the horse's body is his center of action — pivotal
point; whatever happens or attaches to the front portion of tlie ani-
mal induces backward movements and that to the rear part just as
naturally induces forward movement.s — just opposite direction.

Whatever movements are required by the educator of the young
colt must be in conformity with these unalterable natural laws for
proper results If a backward movement is desired the work of the
tutor should be made at the front portion of the colt's body, but for
a forward action then the work must be transferred to the rear part
of the body. Care must always be exercised that these alternate
movements are not required in rapid succession from one end of the
body to the other, as it is too apt to confuse the young animal pupil
before it thoroughly understands them.

Without a still further explanation of this natural law the reader
may not fully comprehend it; but when he is reminded of that which
he already knows full well he will no doubt realize its complete mean-

228

HORSE SENSE.

ing. Every horseman of experience and observation knows that
whenever a horse gets his front foot over an obstruction of any kind
and feels the pressure on the foot or leg — even if it is not six inches
above ground — he goes backwards until he frees himself, even when
he could step over the obstruction by a forward movement; and when
the hind foot is fast he goes forward.

It is also well known that when the halter is put upon the colt's
head for the first time and the "breaker" begins to pull upon the
halter that the colt will invariably go backwards to get out of the
difficulty, yet how many colt handlers ever stopped to consider for
one moment why the colt goes in that direction in preference to any
other? And still everybody knows this to be the fact. Every colt
"breaker" realizes in the beginning that it is a question of man power

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Fig. 1 represents Betsy, at three days old, and the manner of catching the
colt at both ends at the same time for success.

at one end of the halter and horse power at the other. If there is
more horse power than human strength, too oft^n a confirmed halter
puller follows. If the halter is broken in the struggle a like result is
quite evident.

To still further illustrate this great natural law, just take up the
front foot of the horse and carry it forward to the straining point
and the horse invariably goes backwards. Now carry the same foot
back under the body back of its center and a forward movement
is the result. Then take up a hind foot and carry it backwards and
the horse moves forward for relief; but carry it under the body for-
wards of the center and the horse again attempts a backward action
to get away from its efifect. Whenever a horse is seen to try the
passage of a narrow doorway, gate or between two posts, which
makes pressure on both his sides, if he gets more than half way

APPENDIX,

229

through it is next to impossible to back him out. He seems deter-
mined to go on througii if his hips are broken down in the attempt.

An ilhistration of leading the dog for the first time is the same
as that of the colt; he pulls back just the same, and if the leader is
in a hurry he will go, dragging the dog; but don't every small boy
and most old men know the efifect and direction the dog will take
with a tin can tied to his tail and turned loose? Now should not
these well known facts in relation to the natural laws make an impres-
sion on all horsemen strong enough that from this time forward
they will work in conformity with them instead of everlastingly oppos-
ing them for the trouble that can be so easily avoided.

Fig. 2 shows Betsy, at four days old, enjoying her first experience m halter
edtication. Shows she takes kindly to it.

AGE TO BEGIN TRAINING THE COLT.

Bacause it has been the time-honored custom to let the colts run
ad libitum until there comes a convenient time, or until they are two
or three years old, and then "turn in and break them," does it prove
that it is best? The colt must be taken hold of and handled before
it can understand what its duties in life work are. Then at what age
shall we begin? "Yankee like," the question may be answered by
asking if any one likes a hard job in preference to an easy one,
a wild colt instead of a gentle one, a nervous, dangerous one to a
fearless fellow? These conditions are the results of the differences
in handling and the age at which to begin. Sooner or later the neces-
sary time, patience and care must be taken for a practical education,
and it is certainly the easiest, surest and best method to begin when we
can handle the young colts on equal terms without punishment or
fright; show them, rather than force them, to do that which they
do not understand by beginning at the age ot infancy, say one hour

230 HORSE SENSE.

or one day old, bv taking hold of them and handling them all over
carefully without fright or punishment. The earlier in the colt's life
we begin the easier the task, and the longer it is postponed the
greater chances or prospects for a hard struggle. The dififerences of
opinion come in here as to just the right age to begin.

HORSE INTELLIGENCE.

Far too many of the human family believe the horse is only a
"brute" to be "yanked," kicked and pounded into submission at the
pleasure or passion '^f the "acephalous hossman," who is trying to
force his would-be faithful animal servant to perform duties which
neither understand the foundation principles of, but both operating
against each other and getting farther from the desired "goal" at every
turn. It is a case of a man wanting to be a horse trainer not under-
standing the true principles of horsemanship, ignoring the natural laws

Fig. 3 indicates clearly just how Betsy, at six days old, learned to back in ,
compliance with the great natural law, so that in a few days she could
be induced to keep backing for half a block by word alone.

of animal life, and the horse, not knowing what is wanted; a horse and
man fight generally results, with no advantage to the "breaker" and
certainly a damage to the horse.

HORSE'S WONDERFUL MEMORY.

If we are not willing to concede that the horse is endowed with
a fair degree of intelligence we are in duty bound to respect his very
retentive memory, as he never forgets anything — good or bad. Most
people are ready to charge the horse with readily remembering all
the bad tricks he ever learned, yet very few are ready to acknowledge
the careful recollections of the valuable instructions of early life. If
the horse only remembers the bad habits learned and forgets the

APPENDIX. 231

good, it becomes the more important that he never, never, never have
the advantages of acquiring a single bad trick.

WHEN AND HOW TO BEGIN WITH THE COLT.

When the young foal is but an hour or one day old is the very
best time — without question — to demonstrate the truth of another
natural law in animal life, i. e., the stronger rules the weaker; but
in this case it must be with kindness and good things to eat — by
catching the young, timid thing at both ends and holding it.

This must be done in a very firm but quiet manner by placing one
hand under the neck of the colt and the other under the hams, when
that first natural law can be easily demonstrated. If the pressure i.s
made greatest at the hams or rear end, the colt will move forwards;
then if the pressure is made at the chest or front end of the body,
with relief at the hams, the colt will go backwards. Never catch the
colt around the neck only and hold on. If this is done, and persisted
in, the colt will go backwards in a hurry, and both will go down to-

pic. 4 gives the reader an idea of how Betsy, at seven days old, likes sugar,
and, although her newly fitted surcingle and crupper were a great annoy-
ance to her very sensitive nerves, she soon became reconciled.

gether in a heap. And it is not always safe to rely on a tail hold even
at this early age.

HANDLE THE COLT ALL OVER.

Sooner or later we must take hold of the colt and handle it. Will
we wait until it is the stronger and we have to rely on means of pun-
ishment to a greater or less degree, or will we undertake this work at
an age that the young thing can be handled on equal terms without
pain or struggle?

After the colt has been caught and held as above described until
it becomes reconciled to the fact that man is the stronger of the two

232 HORSE SENSE.

—and it will never forget this unless a mistake is made and it gets away
—then begin making it acquainted with hand touches over every part
of its body, being very careful about its ears, back of the fore legs and
at the flank, where it will be found very sensitive. After this is done
then take up the feet and legs on the side next to you and handle them
very carefully; then get on the other side and handle all over again
from that standpoint. A horse may be very familiar with his handler
from the "near," or left side (the side he is usually approached from),
and yet he may be frightened from approach on the "ofif," or right side.
The colt should be familiar with people coming to it from every quarter
without fright or suspicion that it is to be harmed in the least by any-
thing.

SECURE COLT'S ENTIRE CONFIDENCE.

The great secret in handling men or animals intelligently is in getting-
and maintaining their confidence. When the young colt has been caught

Pig. 5 pictures Betsy, at eight days of age, with her surcingle, crupper and

check-rein, being driven with lines (no bit in mouth), and as contented

as an old, experienced pupil or graduate.

and handled all over for the first time, and the demonstration of the law
that the stronger rule the weaker is manifest by the inability of the colt
to get away (which should never be permitted), makes such a lasting
impression that it will never forget it until some mistake is made. But
if by a mistake it succeeds in making its escape, it will certainly not
forget this either, but try it again unless its confidence is so thoroughly
gained that it feels as much at home with its tutor as with its mother,
which is possible to such a degree that it will be as well satisfied with
one as the other.

The medium of the stomach, it is said, is the most direct road to a
man's affections, and it is none the less true with the young colt. A?

APPENDIX. 233

sugar is a little sweeter than the dam's milk, and is generally relished
with astonishing effect when given in small quantities from the hand of
the tutor, the young colt becomes the more confident, as it has been
caught and held by a superior force; it has not been hurt, but caressed,
fondled, petted and given ever a little sweeter food than its dam was
able to provide. Then what has the little thing to be afraid of? If it is
treated in this manner a few days it will as readily follow its tutor as its
dam, and enjoy being handled in any way desired which does not 'frighten
or give it pain.

Granulated sugar, in its early life, must be given from the palm of
the hand, which, by passing the hand across the colt's lips with some
pressure and taken away, will leave a little sugar between the lips and
the colt's tongue will soon come in contact with it, and the job is practi-
cally done, as the colt becomes more and more satisfied with the situa-
tion, and soon manifests a disposition by its actions that it would like

Fig. 6 illustrates what an early beginning, as in the (•;iv(- of Betsy at nine days
old, does for the voting colt to make It kind and indittert'iit to benig handled
in any manner. See how much more she is attracted to an object in the dis-
tance than she is to having her foot held up.

more sugar, in which it should not be disappointed, but given more,
little by little, until its confidence is fully obtained.

COLTS ARE NATURALLY TIMID.

The treatment our horses have had from time immemorial and the
experiences of brutal treatment and torture their ancestors have suffered
has no doubt had much to do with the innate fear exhibited in the high-
ly organized nervous system of many of our horses,' and this influence
is so strongly manifest in the progeny that we are compelled to be more
careful in all we do with the young colts to gain their confidence, by
kind treatment and careful handling, to satisfy them that we are their

lU

HORSE SENSE.

friends instead of enemies. This natural timidity can only be overcome
by kind, firm treatment, relished morsels for the stomach and an assur-
ing manner that they need not fear anything from those who have charge
of their care and keeping.

EDUCATING THE COLT TO THE HALTER.

This IS about the simpliest, easiest and most satisfactory demonstra-
tion of the natural laws of anything we have to do in their education.
If the colt has been treated in the manner heretofore suggested, there
need be no trouble in getting the halter on the colt's head, but I here

Fig. 7 outlines the method of laying Betsy down for the first time at ten days of age.
She did not take kindly to this at first, but in a few lessons she became as famil-
iar with her humble attitude as any other. Note that the left foot is held in the
hand while the head is turned to the right, which naturally throws the weight of
the colt to the teacher, and he can lay the little, young thing down as gently as
putting a baby in Its crib.

beg of the handler not to pull at the colt's head to get it to follow, as
in this it will certainly be on the wrong line of operation. But as soon
as the halter is nicely fitted to the colt's head, a small rope — the size
of a light clothes line — about ten feet or more long, with a slip noose
or ring in one end, should be gently placed over the colt's back just
in front of the hips, with the noose or ring on the underside of the body,
so that when the other end of the rope is run through the noose the

APPENDIX. 235

ropo can be closely drawn down around tlie tlanks; then pass the rope
between the fore legs under the body up under the nose band of the
halter, and then by taking hold of the halter strap in one hand and
tliis light rope with the other, the halter education of the colt may begin
— and not before — by first feeling of the colt's head through the medium
of the halter strap by gentle tension and then relieving, a little more
tension and relief. But above all, don't hurry or go at it in a vigorous
manner, but give the colt a chance to realize that the new situation
is not a pulling match in opposition to the natural law governing such
procedure generally. After feeling of the colt's head with the halter
strap a number of times to let it know that its head is not rigidly fast,
but in a trap that it must not try to get out of, pulling a little harder
each time until it decides to go back and try to get away in that

Fig. 8 is an example of Betsy, at eleven clays of age, and her instructor loung-
ing on the lawn together, entertaining one another. Betsy has the
appearance of being sleepy instead of frightened.

direction, when a sudden and emphatic action is to be made through
the medium of the rope by a sharp pull, which will immediately change
the intention and action of the colt to a forward movement — the one
desired — when the colt should be set at ease regarding the situation by
a little sugar and caresses Repeat this operation over and over a-rain
until the colt understands that when pressure is made on the top of the
head with the halter, and a backward movement is made, that it is go-
ing into a more positive pressure at the other end of the body, which
naturally induces a change of programme and a move in the other di-
rection without a fight, squabble or getting mad.

After the colt fully understands the legitimate use of the halter in
leading is a very good time to teach it to back — a very important and
necessary duty in its after life of usefulness — which is easily accomplished
by complying with the natural law again — by pressing the extended fin

236

HORSE SENSE.

gers of one hand between the point of the shoulder and the breast bone
and using the other hand at the halter strap to simply keep the colt
straight in line, to back in any desired direction. Don't try to force the
colt backwards by "yanking" at the halter or bit, but simply press in
this sensitive chest cavity with the fingers and the colt will naturally go
backwards, provided there is nothing of an obstruction behind it. When
this pressure has been made at the front and the colt has moved back-
wards (if it is only one step) it should be rewarded for this action; then
try it again. About the third time this pressure has been made is a
good time to associate the word back! with the pressure, and the reader
will be surprised to see how soon the colt will comprehend what is
wanted, and how willingly the young thing complies with our every wish
as soon as it understands what is wanted.

Fig 9 exemplifies how Betsy, at twelve days of age, be( ame so -well acquainted
with the umbrella and other objects while lying on the grass that she pre-
ferred to eat the latter instead of getting frightened at the umbrella.
See how contented she is.

DRIVING THE YOUNG COLT WITH LINES.

Just as soon as the colt fully understands the backing movement
thoroughly is a verv opportune time to begin driving with lines, and
to do this successfully a surcingle (crupper and check may be well)
nicely adjusted is required. The surcingle must be provided with loops
or rings on each side, placed below the center line of the body and the
lines passed through these and secured to the rings of the halter (never
use a bit in the mouth of the very younp colt if it can possibly be
helped), and then the lines will draw or pass the hind quarters low down
to prevent the colt from turning with its head towards the educator.
It is very important to keep the reins low in turning to make the
guiding process easy The tutor can walk very close to the colt's heels
in the beginning, so as to encourage it in its forward movement with a

APPENDIX.

23:

little pressure on the rump with one hand wliile the directing or guid-
ing is done with the other hand. After a little, as the colt becomes ac-
customed to being driven, then it can be touched up with the line for a
start forward, guiding to the right and left, but stopping often to assure
the young thing that it is doing all right by caresses and a little sugar.

EDUCATING THE COLT TO STOP.

In driving the colt with lines, as soon as it will start off promptly
at the word for forward movements, or by a slight touch at the hams
with the lines and can be guided to the right and left without difficulty
is the proper time to educate it to stop at the word whoa! together
with a sudden and positive pull on the lines; then, after waiting a min-
ute or two. start on as before, and after going until everything appears

Fig. 10 is a clear case of the contentment of the dam in the distance gi'aziug,

while Betsy, thirteen days old, is sleeping, with her teacher's head

pillowed on her ijody, with one hind foot on his hip.

all right, the stopping can be ordered and carried out in the same way.
repeating at longer or shorter intervals, until the colt stops at the word
whoa! as promptly as any horse with years of experience.

Whenever these stops are made the colt should be given special
attention, by caresses and a little sugar, to satisfy it that notwithstanding
it has been "snubbed" up suddenly, it is still treated kindly. The coh
must not on any account become confused or frightened. Time, patience,
compliance with the natural law, sweet morsels of food fed from the
hand, kindness and firmness will make the work easy, successful and
satisfactory. Please don't forget any of this.

LAYING THE YOUNG COLT DOWN.
This matter of laying the colt down is considered by many as wholly
unnecessary, and by some a disadvantage. But this will be a subject
for each one to decide for himself after the advantages are set forth.

238

HORSE SENSE.

To lay the young colt down is a very easy matter, when rightly done.
Say you stand on the near or left side of the colt with the halter strap
drawn from the right side of the colt's head and across the back of the
colt. Now take up the left front foot of the colt with one hand by a
firm grasp and with the other pull the colt's head by the halter strap
close to its right side, which will throw the weight of the colt towards
the operator, and at an early age it can be laid down about as easily
and carefully as a mother would put her baby in its crib or cradle.
As soon as the colt is down and it makes the least effort to rise, its
head should be pulled up closely to its side, back towards the flank
which makes it impossible for it to get up if kept in this position. As
soon as it has finished its struggle to gain its feet and failed it should
be given an easy position in prostrate form, and, as soon as it takes

Fig. 1 1 portrays Betsy, at thirty days of life, standing in front of the Acme
stables, Selby avenue, hitched to shafts (with pieces of rear end to prevent
backward movements voltmtarilv), but she seems to pay more attention to
the little girl standing by the Indian tobacco sign than the electric street
cars running at full speed.

kindly to this, it should be caressed, handled and given a little sugar:
thus given to understand that it is not to be hurt, but that it must stay
in whatever position it is placed in comfort. But at each efifort to get
up, the head must be pulled to the side and well back towards the flank,
which will soon demonstrate to the colt (if the tutor has not been care-
less) that it is in comparatively a helpless condition and still treated
kindly, which soon makes the work of handling or doing anything about
it easy, and if no mistakes are made it is astonishing how soon it realizes
its helpless condition, and is a perfectly willing subject to whatever is
desired.

The main object in laying the colt down is to demonstrate to it that
the tutor is stronger than it, and that in its prostrate condition it can-

APPENDIX. 239

not get away from objects whicli it would struggle to accomplish if
upon its feet.

As soon as the colt is satisfied with its humble position is a good
time to bring the umbrella, robe, tin pans or other objects of fright s(
that it can become acquainted with them by examination with the
nose, the touch on all parts of the body, noise, etc., but all this must
be done with the utmost caution to avoid frightening or hurting the
colt. Every movement must be made quietly, canefully and never
quickly.

The colt must learn everything from experience, much as we do,
and if it is in a comparatively helpless condition it will learn milch
more rapidly what is desired than if it is on its feet and can struggle
more or less with some show of escape. After the colt has examined

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Pig 12. Betsy, at three months old, with an interval of two month.s since see-
ing her instructor. It is plain to be seen that she has not forgotten
her former handling nor lost confidence in her teacher.

the objects that are brought to it, has smelled, touched with its nose
(its fingers), seen, heard the sounds and felt touches of it all over its
body while down, it has nothing to fear when up on its feet, and con-
sequently does not try to get away from what would otherwise be the
means of spoiling the colt.

When it once understands that these things are harmless, it cares-
nothing for them. Once well learned nothing further is to be feared^
But, after mistakes have been made, oh, how different! Care, perse-
verance and patience may win, but the chances are of too great a
risk to warrant any other course than the very best from every con-
sideration. We must ever recollect that the colt never, never forgets
anything, let it be for good or evil, therefore we should avoid anything
and everything that can in any way contribute to the dangerous side
of the colt's education. The great value in laying it down is to have

240 HORSE SENSE.

absolute control without a possible chance of the colt getting away
from objects of fright before it is well acquainted with them.

TEACH THE COLT USEFUL LESSONS ONLY.

Because the young colt is so susceptible to training is no reason that
it should be taught a lot of things that are of no practical use; or, be-
cause it is bright and full of play, that it must be frightened to see it
run, teach it tricks or allow it to become mischievous, and bite, rear,
kick or anything else that may seen "cute" while it is very youncr: but
these very things later on may become a great annoyance and very
hard to overcome.

The "Cosset" colt is generally looked upon as a worthless animal,
but this is true only on the basis that the "Cosset" has always been
allowed to have its own way and it pleases to be into more or less
mischief, lawless or "sulky." From this fact alone the colt should be
taught useful lessons, those only that will enable the colt to become a
better and more useful animal during mature life. It should be taught
to be handled from every point of approach without resistance. Teach
it the importance of that greatest word in horsemanship, whoa — mean-
ing stop and stand still until commanded to move. Teach it to back
at the word, start whenever commanded to move forward, etc., etc. It
should be strongly impressed that its tutor is its protector under all
circumstances, and whenever any object of fright is presented it must
be encouraged to march up to it or the object brought to the colt
and an opportunity given for an examination of the apparent frightful
thing, with every confidence that it will be protected from all harm.
Whenever the colt associates with the things of fright more or less pun-
ishment, then the two can never be completely separated. When the
object is seen the punishment is practically felt, and the animal is very
sure to act in anything but a satisfactory manner.

A CHOICE VOCABULARY FOR THE COLT.

While we all recognize that the horse is mute (cannot talk) it must
not be forgotten that his sight and hearing are remarkably good, gen-
erally. We must remember — and never forget for one moment — that
words used in association with actions will very soon become fixtures
with the horse and can be relied on without other means. For
instance, when the young horse is asked to move forward bv a "chir-
rup" or the word "start," and he is touched at the rear end of the
body at the same time, he promptly moves ahead, and if this is
repeated a number of times he needs only to be told to "start" and
he obeys. A vocabulary of ten words, all of which can be taught
the horse in ten days, will enable the cool-headed horseman to derive
as many distinct movements of the horse by the use of specific words
for the purpose only. The reader will naturally say this is a strong state-
ment; so it is and only applies to a level-headed colt and a well behaved
horseman with a proper education; not a horseman in the sense of bois-
terous gesticulation, spur, harsh bit and whip treatment in the usual man-

APPENDIX. 241

ner, but one who understands the natural laws governing animal life and
the movements of horses generally, their peculiar traits of character, and
is in harmonious association with them, one who loves horses and who the
horses take kindly to and loves to obey without fear of punishment. i

Hundreds of instances can be cited showing the intelligence of horses
and their ability to comprehend through the use of words alone the directed
duties to be performed, which have been taught and thoroughly understood
through practical, demonstrated lessons with words and associated actions
in contradistinction to the too generally and apparently too willingly ac-
cepted idea that the horse is but a mere brute, without sense or feeling, to
be used as the most degraded, menial servant, with only abuse and punish-
ment, to the gratification and sometimes delight of the self-boasted "hoss-
man," who often knows less — devoid of sentiment or sympathy — than the
humiliated animal that submits to his inhuman treatment, and under such
circumstances it would be only fair, if it were possible, to harness the man-
brute and give the humane-horse a chance to demonstrate his higher order
of development.

SPECIFIC WORDS FOR DEFINITE ACTIONS.

For the very best results there should be a general adoption of specific
words for definite actions all over the land, and whenever this becomes a
fixture in horse education by universal adoption, then we can buy, sell and
exchange horses with benefit to ourselves and some satisfaction to the
horses themselves in many cases. If everybody would use the same vo-
cabulary in the handling of their horses then the horses would understand
the meaning of the words used and conduct themselves accordingly with-
out any fear of punishment for failure to understand a command. But
just as long as every horseman has a way of his own (and no two alike)
what can we expect in the actions of our horses? Is it not plain that a
horse may be very valuable in one man's hands and comparatively worthless
in that of another, simply because he understands what to do in one case
and knows nothing in the other but confusion, fear and punishment And
right here is where the troubles ensue in trading horses generally — both
parties may be benefited or beaten, or one the gainer and the other worsted

A TEN WORD HORSE VOCABULARY.

After years of study and experiment the writer has adopted the follow-
ing:

Already. — To let the horse know that a command is about to be given.

Start. — For a forward movement, modified in tone for prompt or delib-
erate action.

Hurry. — For increased movement in gait, used in modulation or em-
phasis, as may be required

Faster. — When the gait is to be increased, also with modulation of
voice, rapid repetition, emphasis or slight touches of the whip.

Steady. — Is to be used as a governor to maintain the speed attained and
satisfy the horse that he is doing just right.

242 HORSE SENSE.

Slacken. — Indicates what is wanted and tone of voice for degree of mod-
ification of speed for special character of animal.

Whoa. — Is the most important word in the whole catalogue, and
should never be spoken except for an immediate stop to a positive stand-
still, and the horse should understand that he is to remain stationary
until notified that another order is about to be given by Already.

Back. — Is next in importance, and the horse should fully understand
just what this command actually means. One driver will use the word
"whoa-back," another "backup," and a third says nothing, but pulls on the
lines hard enough to split the horse's mouth, and if the horse goes back
too rapidly he will apply the whip vigorously at the rear end of the ani-
mal, which virtually puts him between two fires — front and rear — con-
fuses or so excites him that it is hard to tell what will happen next.

Right. — Is just as good as "gee" (of our forefathers), and the horse
soon comprehends what is wanted through the same single line or other-
wise.

Left. — Can take the place of "haw" (of our ancesters), and the line
or lines used just as they did or otherwise to have the horse understand.
These words, "haw" and "gee," in connection with the one-line sys-
tem of the South, demonstrates what can be done in the way of educat-
ing horses to comply with commands of these words, "haw" and "gee;"
by association of a pull on the line and the word "haw" the horse
promptly turns to the left, and by a slight jerk of the line in connection
with the word "gee," the horse as readily turns to the right. A good,
intelligent line or lead horse will soon acquire a knowledge of what is
needed of him so that the driver, who usually rides the left wheel horse
of the four, six or eight-horse team, can walk beside the team, behind
the wagon or ride and drive by the commands of word alone.

By a careful study of this vocabulary it will be seen that the words are
simple, and there is no good reason why this or some better system does
not deserve adoption by everybody to save trouble, confusion and mis-
understanding of men and horses.

CONFUSION MUST BE AVOIDED.

Whatever is done with horses to the best advantage must be done
coollv, deliberately, confidingly and with kindness for best results. When-
ever the horse becomes confused and excited he seemingly "loses his
head," which is then very liable to lead to dangerous results; but just
as long as he and his driver are on peaceable terms and understand each
other perfectly, there is comparatively little danger even with the high-
est order of nervous development. As long as the horse understand that
he is not to be hurt, and that directions will come in an intelligent man-
ner he can be relied on, but just as soon as he loses confidence in his
driver he seems to take the responsibility of the situation upon himself,
and then destruction too generally follows.

The theory practiced by the majority of the (would be) horsemen
is to force the animal to do their bidding, whether the horse understands

APPENDIX. 243

what it is or not. But neither men nor horses can execute any order
well without understanding just how to perform the duty, and this is
acquired by cool, delilierate, careful and kind explanation without fear
of punishment. Well behaved horses are the results of kind, careful
handling, but dangerous horses are made so .by fright and fight by those
who have undertaken their training. Many of our very best and safest
horses under similar treatment can be made dangerous animals in an .
incredibly short time in the hands of an abusive, inhuman, cruel, horse- /
breaking crank.

MAKE HORSE TEACHING LESSONS SHORT.

The education of horses, like that of children, should be confined to
short lessons of real practical value. It is best to do the work in a short,
exact manner in the same way every day. Take up one thing at a
time and be sure the colt fully understands that lesson before undertak-
ing another, and it is good practice, as advancement is made, to keep
the several lessons in the most useful order and always repeat each in
the order taught, when the colt can be depended on to go through the
list in the order of advancement without a break. But if the work of
education has been done in a haphazard manner, then it is not certain
just what can be depended on.

NO SUDDEN MOVEMENTS.

As horses are naturally timid and sensitive, it is important that no
sudden movements be made in approaching the colt, as these will tend
to make it start and jump away, through which it will soon learn that
it can avoid being caught, and thereafter be inclined to move away from
instead of towards its tutor, a thing to be very much regretted.

If the handler of the colt will always go to it in a very quiet manner,
never seeming to care whether it gets away or not, and never makes a
quick movement to catch the colt, but be sure of success when attempted,
and always be prepared to catch it at both ends at the same time with
one hand under the neck and the other under the hams, then you are
sure of success.

NEVER FRIGHTEN THE COLT.

Too many persons, thoughtlessly, will try to make the young colt
show off by doing something to startle it — make it run, etc. — which is
all wrong if the colt is to be made a safe and reliable animal for the
future ; or it should at least be deferred until the colt fully understands
just what is wanted in many other respects, which cannot be attained
until it has had quite an experience in the exhibition business.

USE AND ABUSE OF THE WHIP.

That the whip has a place in legitimate horsemanship there is no ques-
tion, but there is probably no other one thing in connection with horse
education (especially the colt) where the application of the whip is oftener
out of place than all others put together. The use of the whip is to

244 HORSE SENSE.

encourage the colt to move forwards promptly when that command is
given, but it must not be forgotten that the application of the whip
should be at the rear end and always in association with the word start!
yet never before the command is given for the forward movement, but
so quickly after the word is spoken that the colt readily understands
what is wanted. These two (the word and blow) must succeed each
other so closely that the colt cannot help feeling that when the word
is spoken that the whip is right after it, and to avoid the pain of the whip
it acts so promptly that the punishment is avoided, and it learns this, too,
so there is no further use of the whip with the ambitious horse ; the word
is sufficient, and it would be doing a great injustice to use the whip
on the horse that is trying to do all that should be required. One
sharp cut with the whip is far better than any number of strokes fol-
lowing; in fact, no one should ever be permitted to whip a colt into
(what is erroneously termed) submission. This term is a misnomer as
applied to colt education and should not be tolerated under any circum-
stances. Such a thing as a fight between a man and his horse is alto-
gether wrong and no good can come of it ; but, on the contrary, bad
habits are almost sure to follow, bad feelings engendered that cannot be
eradicated, and possibly tricks learned by the horse that the best of han-
dlers cannot overcome.

NEVER WHIP AND JERK AT THE SAME TIME.

Whenever the whip is applied to the rear part of the colt's body the
greatest care must be exercised not to suddenly restrain the forward
movement by the lines in a jerk at the head, and more especially if a
bit is used in the young, sensitive mouth, or great mischief may be done.
Great pains must be taken on the part of the trainer whenever the colt
is to be suddenly stopped, as, for instance, following the word whoa I
that it is never attempted immediately after a stroke of the whip. When-
ever the colt is struck with the whip for a forward movement then it
should not be punished in the mouth by a "yank" at the bit. The coif
is almost certain to feel that it is between two enemies — rear and front —
and any one can reason out the natural and logical conclusions. Some
desperate act on the colt's part is very likely to follow. If we must strike
the colt with the whip, let us be sure to not restrain it by the lines, but
permit it to go forward — fast or slow — as it decides the matter from
the effect made on its body. But if we expect a well-behaved colt we
must do as little with the whip as possible to get the colt to go.

MUTUAL UNDERSTANDING.

It is equally important that the trainer and the colt are mutual friends
and have a perfect understanding like when the teacher of the school
and the pupils mutually understand each other for harmony and advance-
ment in their education. But just as soon as it is discovered that this
good feeling and friendship is lost is the right time to stop and let some-
one else try it who knows better how it should be done. Never make
the lessons of long duration. Never try to force the colt to do what

APPENDIX. 245

it fails to understand, and as soon as weariness is manifest any further
work must be postponed until another day. Frequent short lessons are
generally enjoyed by the colt, and, if they are given in regular order
every day, step by step, the colt soon learns to like both the work and its
teacher.

In summing up this whole matter it is unnecessary to say more than
this: That if the foregoing instructions are carefully followed the writer
has great confidence in the results with both teacher and his pupils.

In reviewing this subject the reader will please bear in mind that the
author is not trying to force any special theories upon the public, but
only very anxious to relieve the horse of much of his suffering, but, by
giving through this medium his experience and observations, intelli-
gence and wonderful memory of the very large majority of our horses,
as well as making the horse much more valuable to his owner by edu-
cation, care and treatment, he hopes to get the reader to looking at this
whole matter just as we find it in nature, and not on the basis of punish-
ment.

In recapitulating, the reader's attention is called to the early beginning
of the colt's education and the importance of the instructor thoroughly
understanding the colt's nature throughout, as well as just how to proceed
step by step for a complete education without any danger of failure in
making a safe, reliable and trustworthy, mature horse for the duties to
which he is best adapted.

The means and methods here referred to are only suggestive to the
reader, and if any one has a better and more comprehensive system in
conformity with the natural laws of animal life, it should not be held
back, but set forth in the interest of men and horses,
of the neck from top to bottom.

"HORSE SENSE"

HAME AND HAME TUG

CO

(i

HORSE SENSE"— Common Sense Scientific Combination.

This radical improvement in Hame and Tug construction is tlie invention of Dr
J. C. Curryer, and is ttie result of several years of study and experimenting.

This new method of draft upon tho shouldei-s Is just as the horse would have it if
he could, as it is constructed on scientitic principles to insure comfort and prevent
injury to the shoulders of our hard-working horses. It obviates the necessity
of sweat-pads, greatly diminishes the liability of producing sweeny, collar boils,
galled shoulders and sore necks. The collar is prevented from spreading or pulling
away from the neck, or moving about on the shoulders as the horse walks in his
work. And the collar-bearing is evenly distributed over the entire shoulder, as the
draft is directly backward, which suggested its name, "Horse Sense."

«The principle of raising and lowering the draft on the shoulders Is another com-
mon sense as well as "Horse Sense" method to meet the difference in horse shoulders
and the many kinds of work they have to do. If the collar is too long (as is often the
case) the draft can be raised to the required point and the horse is at once relieved
from working with too low a draft. If it is too high it can be lowered just as easily.

Our horses do all their heavy harness work from the shoulders, and the best fl't-
tings with the least movement on the shoulders (like carrying anything on our
shoulders) will greatly relieve the horse from suffering and be a decided benefit to his
owner— insuring the work being done with less fretting and chafing, with little pros-
pect of balking when not overloaded and properly driven.

The plates H and I (as seen in both figs. 1 and 2) are made to change the shape of
the collar for a better adaptation or fitting of the collar to the neck of the horse.
Plate H will change the usually straight hame into a more circular form which will
better fit the thick or "stag necked" horse through its central portion, as seen in fig.
2, while the plate I, on the straight hame, will force the collar to the depression in
the sides of the thin-necked horse, as seen in fig. 1. These plates fill a long-felt want
and will last a life-time, and considering the advantage to the horse which needs
neither, their cost is simply trifling.

BENEFITS SUMMED UP 1st— Better fitting collar. 2d— Saving the expense

of sweating-pads. M— No wearing of the collar or drawing it out of shape by the
hame-tug pulling hard into it. 4th— Direct backward draft instead of the usual ro-
tary pressure on the horse's shoulders, by its extreme outside bearing, as usually
done. .5th— Raising or lowering the draft with a range of two inches, at every third
of an inch, to accommodate the draft to different shaped shoulders and the work to
be done, which can be done easily and quickly. 6th— Saving the irritability of horses
from sore necks, painful pressure of the collar on sore shoulders, sweeny and should-
er lameness in many cases, as well as doing ranch towards insuring trtie pullers in-
stead of making balkers. 7th— Best of all that th.'se improvements should cost but
little more than supplying the same part- f'l w with Lrood material) to the harness
now in use. Address "HORSE SENSE'" tuG CO.,

.217 296 Selby ^ve., ST. PAUL, MINN.

Webster Family Library of Veterinary I

Cummings School of Veterinary Medidne 01

Tufts University

200 Westboro Road

Morth Grafton. MA OliSaa^