^rysvit^ii^.i^r)«virj«flty«. mmmumissumis^sis^ . . . INDEX . . . PAGE Early History and Habits of the Horse — 9 Dentition of the Adult Horse 14 The True Way of Breaking Horses 17 How to Feed, Water and Drive 18 Special Advice in Reference to Feeding Horses 19 Horse Feed Mixture 19 How to Get a Colt From Pasture 19 How to Stable a Colt 20 Objects of Fear — How to Prevent Fear 21 The Kind of Halter to be Used, and How to Put It on the Colt 22 To Break a Horse to Harness 22 To Break Horses to Stand the Fire of a Gun 23 Necessity of Repetition of Lessons and a Thorough Training..23 How to Proceed with the Colt after Haltering 24 Do not Try to Force the Colt if Excited 25 How to Proceed if a Colt is Stubborn 25 To Make a Colt Follow Under the Whip 26 How to Make a Horse Stand Still Without Hitching 27 How to Lead a Colt with a Broke Horse 27 The Eureka Bridle 29 How to Make the Eureka Bridle 29 How to Lead a Colt into a Stable 28 How to Break Horses to Ride „ 30 How to Teach a Horse to Pace 31 Management of Wild Horses 31 The Kind of Bit to Use and How to Use It 33 How to Make a Bitting Bridle for an Unruly Horse 34 How to Saddle a Colt 34 How to Mount a Colt _ 35 How to Ride a Colt 36 Foot Strap, and How to Use It 37 How to Prevent a Horse Running Away 38 How to Make a Horse Lie Down „ 38 Kicking in Stall 39 How to Tame a Horse with Vicious Habits 39 How to Cure Bad Kickers 41 How to Hitch a Horse to a Sulky 41 To Train Horses for the Chaise 42 To Train a Horse to Stand „ 43 Halter Pulling 43 How to Manage Balky Horses 44 Advice to Those Who Hire Horses 46 INDEX PAGE On Choking as a Means of Subduing a Horse 47 To Make Horses Perfectly Safe for Family Use 48 On the Rearing of Colts - 48 On the Training of Horses for Trotting 49 On Horse Blinds, or Blinkers 49 Rules to be Observed in the Purchase of a Horse .•. 50 How to Tell a Horse's Age by His Teeth 52 Weights to be Carried in Trotting 53 Race Distances 53 To Put Horses in Good Condition 53 To Keep Horses Free from Disease 54 How to Shoe a Horse 54 The Shoe - 57 Interfering Shoes 58 The Foot and Its Diseases - 58 The Frog 59 The Sole 59 The Coffin Bone 59 Contracted Feet 61 Thrush 61 Grease 62 Cure for Grape Legs 63 Founders, How Caused, Etc 63 The Navicular Bone — 64 Quarter Crack 64 Heaves — Reasons Why It is Not in the Lungs 65 Lung Fever 65 Adhesive Plasters „ 67 Physicing _ 68 Poultices 69 Wind Galls 69 The Action of the Kidneys on the Blood 69 Antimony „ 70 Sweeny 71 Hide Bound 71 Cough 72 For Restoring Hair to Galled Spots on Horses 72 For Spavin 72 Preparation for Blood Spavin 73 Cure for Heaves _ 73 Anti-Spasmodics 73 Anti-Spasmodic Tincture for Man or Horse 73 Worms in the Horse— How Treated 73 Anodynes 74 Farcy — Its Treatment 74 Pleurisy — How to be Treated 74 Staggers 75 INDEX PAGE Warbles, Sitfasts and Saddle Galls 75 For Inflammation of the Lungs in a Horse - 76 For Colic in Horses ^...76 Stoppage of Water. „ „ 76 Colic or Cholera in Mules 77 Colts Brought Up by Hand 77 Vegetable Caustic 78 To Cure Warts 78 Hoof Medicine 78 To Restore the Appetite „ 78 Stoppage of the Bowels 78 Salve for Man or Beast 79 To Soften the Feet 79 Stifle _ 79 Tonics 79 Mercurial Ointment 79 Spavin nad Ringbone 79 Receipt _ 80 To Clean and Oil Harness _.81 Strength of Food for Horses 81 To Cure Cribbing 82 To Prevent Horses Jumping 82 Bots or Grubs 82 Quinsy „ 83 Distemper „.83 Scours 85 Blind Staggers 85 Weakness Across the Loins ^ 85 Stocked or Swollen Legs 86 To Cure Distemper 86 Remedy for Bots _..86 Inflamed Swellings or Lame Shoulder - 86 To Cure Heaves 86 Physic Ball 86 Diuretic Drops 87 Colic 87 Fistula and Polevil - 87 Farmers and Stock Owners' Department 88 Cruelty to Horses „ 90 Rarey's Liniment 90 Rarey's Wizard Oil 90 Rarey's Directions for Shoeing Horses 90 To Prevent Horses Kicking in the Stall 93 To Cure Broken Legs 93 Lampas .- 93 Gravel ^ '. 93 Halter Puling „ 93 INDEX PAOB Hide Bound --93 To Prevent Horses from Jumping 93 Big Leg 94 Sore Breasts - 94 The Check Rein on Horses 94 Feeding Horses on the Road 94 Itch ^ ^ 95 Urine Stoppage 95 To Cure Balky Horses 95 Dr. Cole's King of Oils 95 Mexican Mustang Liniment 95 Sloan's Horse Ointment 95 Merchant's Gargling Oil ~ 95 Arabian Condition Powders ~ 95 Blistering Liniment 96 Medicated Food for Horses and Cattle 96 Lotion for Mange — 96 Hoof-Bound Wash 96 To Toughen Hoofs -96 Scratches .- 96 Cough ^ ~ 96 Split or Broken Hoof 97 Colic Cure 97 To Cure Distemper -97 Founder Cured in Twenty-Four Hours 97 Cure for Staggers 97 Ring-Bone and Spavin Cure - 97 Cure for Bone Spavins ~ 97 Another Very Valuable Recipe for Ring-Bone 98 Splint and Spavin Liniment 98 Poll Evil and Fistula 98 To Tame Horses _ - 98 Best Remedy for Heaves — - ~ 98 THE HORSE EARLY HISTORY AND HABITS OF THE HORSE THE early history and origin of the horse is wrapped in ■ obscurity and fable, and we really know little or nothing of it, except that we have reason to believe that he first came from Asia, like man, and, according to the Mosaic account, all other animals now existing; and that he was used in Egypt more than 1600 years before Christ. But with the history of the horse I shall not encumber this book, which might be enlarged to an enormous extent if this department were entered into at length. Sufftce it, then, to discuss the present condition of the horse, and its more recent origin, as now existing in this country, in addition to his general habits. The habits of the horse in all countries, and of all varieties, are pretty much alike. Wherever he is at large, he is bold but wary, and easily taking note of the approach of man to give him as wide a birth as he possibly can, or rather show him a clean pair of heels. Wild horses exist to the present day in the interior of Asia and in South America. But both the horses of the Tartars and those of La Plata are dsecended from domesticated animals, and can scarcely be called wild in the ordinary acceptation of the term. Indeed, the Califor- nian horses, which are still more recently bred in a wild state from Spanish horses, are quite as wild as those described by Sir F. B. Head. From their constant state of liberty, and their roving habits, in order to obtain food and water, they are inured to fatigue, and can bear an enormous amount of long-continued fast work without failing under it, and with- 10 THE HORSE out that training which the domesticated animal must have. The walk and the gallop are the horse's natural paces, and all Others are acquired; but nothing can excell the fiery anima- tion and elegance of movement of the free horse, and in these two paces art has done nothing to improve his form except perhaps in slightly increasing the speed of the latter. In all countries and in every age the horse feeds upon grain or grass, though it is said that in Arabia he is occasionally supported upon camel's milk when food such as he usually lives upon is not to be had. It may be useful to specify the terms employed to describe the principal parts of the horse. These details will not prove altogether superfluous, as some of the words we are about to explain not unfrequently occur in conversation. The two parts of the head of the horse which correspond to the temples in a man, are above the eyes. The eyes them- selves have a loose crescentiform fold of the conjunctiva at the inner angle, often erroneously called membrana nietitans, but it neither performs its office or possesses its muscular apparatus. The orbit, which is formed of seven bones, four cranial and three facial, contains the globe of the eye, on the inner angle of which is situated the haw (a). The figure attached will per- fectly supply the means of verifying all these indications. The eye-pits (b) a'-e deep indentations which lie between the eyes and the ear, above the eyebrows on each side.* The jace (c) is the front of the head from the eyes to the nostrils; this part corresponds to the upper part of a man's nose. This name is, however, generally applied to that por- tion that surrounds the curl or centre on the forehead from whence the hair radiates. The neck of the horse is designated by the word cres. (d), it is comprised from one end to the other between the mane on the upper side, and the gullet on the lower. The forelock (e) is the portion of the mane which is on the top of the head and falls over on the forehead between the eyes. The withers (j) is the spot where the shoulders meet up above, between the back and the neck, at a point where the neck and the mane come to an end. The chest (g) is that part which is in front between the shoulders and below the throat. The back (h) commences at the withers and extends all • The horse possesses a peculiar structure within the eye — the tapetum luclda— •f a lustrous green color, by which he is enabled to see objectsln comparatlTe darkness, and especially under his feet. THE HORSE 11 along the spine as far as the crupper. When the horse is fat, the whole length of the spine forms a kind of hollow, which is said to be channeled. The space which is included within the ribs is called the barrel (i) ; the name of the stomach (j) is also given to the lower part of the body which joins the os sternum and the bottom of the ribs. The jianks lie at the extremity ot the stomach, and extend as far as the hip-bones. The tail is divided into two parts; the stump or dock, and the hair. The upper part of the front leg of the horse is called the shoulder (m), although it corresponds with the forearm in a man ; the for eat .a (n) follows it lower down. The joint which is below the forearm is called the knee (o); it corresponds to the place of the wrist in man, and forms &n angle turning inwards when the leg is bent. 12 THE HORSE The shank (p) forms the second portion of the foreleg; it commences at the kneejoint, and corresponds to the metacar' pus in man. Behind the shank is a tendon, which extends from one end to the other, and is called the back-sinew. The fetlock-joint (q) is the articulation immediately below the shank. The fetlock itself is a tuft of hair covering a sort of soft horny excresence, which is called the ergot. The pastern (r) is the portion of the leg between the fetlock joint and the foot. The coronet (s) is an elevation lying below the pastern, and is furnished with long hair falling over the hoof, all round the foot. The hoofs (t) form, so to speak, the nails of the horse, and consists of a horny substance. In order to describe the parts which make up the hind legs of the horse, we must go back to the haunches. Each of these contains the femur, and corresponds to the thigh of a man. It is, therefore, the thigh of the horse which is joined to the body, and bears the name of buttocks. It is terminated below and in front by the stifle (k), which is the joint of the knee containing the kneepan. It is situated below the haunch, on a level with the flank, and shifts its place when the horse walks. The highest part of the hind leg, which is detached from the body, is called the thigh or gaskins (ni), and corresponds to the leg of a man. It extends from the stifle and lower part of the buttocks down to the hock (o). The hock is the joint which is below the thigh, and bends forward. This joint represents the instep in a man; the hinder part of the hock, which is called the point of the hock, is the heel. Below the hock are the shank, the fetlock- joint, the pastern, and the foot, just the same as in the forelegs. We will now say a few words as to the diversity of color in the coat of the horse, in order to fix the meaning of the terms which are generally employed to designate the various hues which the coat presents. Bay is a reddish nut-brown color, with various shades. Dark Bay horses are of a very dark brown, almost black, ex- cept on the flanks and tip of the nose, where they are of a red- dish color. The golden or light hay is a yellow sun-light hue. Dappled Bay horses have on their rumps spots of a darker bay than on the rest of their bodies. In bay horses the extremi- ties, the mane, and the tail are always black. . There are three kinds of black horses ; the rusty black, which is of a brownish tinge, more or less conspicuous in THE HORSE 13 various lights ; the black and the coal black which is the darkest of all. Dun colored horses, of which there are several shades, are of a yellowish sandy hue. The mane and the tail of these are either white or black. Some of the latter have a black line along the vertebra, which is called a mule's or eel-stripe. Chestnut is a kind of reddish or cinnamon colored bay. There are several shades of it, among which are the bright chestnut, which is the color of a red cow's coat ; the common chestnut, which is neither dark nor bright ; the bay chestnut, which verges upon the red ; the burnt chestnut, which is dark and nearly approaches black. Some chestnut horses have white manes and tails : others, black. The roan is a mixture of red and white. Grey horses have white hair mixed with black or bay. There are several modifications of this color ; the dappled grey, the silver grey, the iron grey, etc. Dapple-grey horses have on their backs and other parts of their body a number of round spots, in some cases black ; in others, of a lighter hue ; these spots are somewhat irregularly distributed. Grey horses as they increase in age become lighter in color, ultimately be- coming white. Piebald and Skewbald horses are white, with large irregular spots and stripes of some other color irregularly arranged. The different kind are distinguished by the color that is com- bined with the white, as the piebald proper, which are white and black ; the skezvbald, which are white and bay ; the chest- nut piebald, which are white and chestnut. The horses which have small black spots on a white or grey coat are called flea-bitten, particularly prevalent in India among Arabs. We have hitherto considered the wild and domestic horse in common, both as regards their structure and their color — in short, their outward appearance generally — without noticing the different breeds, which must soon occupy our attention. But before we enter upon the study of the various equine races, it is necessary to give a short explanation as to the way in which the bit regulates the paces of the horse. By this we are led to speak of the construction of the mouth, a knowledge of which is most useful. The horse either walks, trots, gallops or ambles. The paces of the horse are essentially modified by means both of the bit and spur. The spur excites a quickness of movement; the bit communicates to this movement a due amount of precision. The mouth of the horse is so sensitive that the least movement or the slightest impression which it 14 THE HORSE receives, warns and regulates the motion of the animal. But to preserve the full delicacy of this organ, it is highly neces- sary to treat tenderly its extreme sensibility. The position of the teeth in the jaw of the horse affords to man the facility which exists of placing a bit in its mouth, by which instrument this high-spirited and vigorous animal is broken in and guided. Let us, therefore, in the first place, study the arrangement of its mouth. There are in each jaw six incisors or foreteeth, followed on either side by a tush, which is generally deficient in mares, especially in the lower jaw. Next comes a series of six grind- ers on each side in both jaws; these teeth have a square crown, marked with four crescents, formed by the lamina of enamel which are embedded on them. Between the tushes and grinders there is a considerable space called the bar, which corresponds to the angle of the lips, and it is in this interval that the bit is placed. FIG. 1.- DENTITION OF THE ADULT HORSE. 6 (a). Indiwa, \{h) TSxahes or Canines, (c) Interval caUed (he Bar. (d) MoloTa- It is also by means of the teeth that we are enabled to know a horses age — a knowledge which is of the highest utility; for a horse increases in value in proportion as he approaches maturity, again decreasing in worth as he becomes older. Up to nine years the age can be determined pretty accurately by means of the changes which take place in the teeth. The foal, at its birth, is usually devoid of teeth in the front THE HORSE 15 of the mouth, and has only two grinders on each side in each jaw (Fig.2). At the end of a few days, the two middle fore teeth, or pincers, make their appearance. In the course of the first month a third grinder shows itself, and in four months more the two next fore-teeth also emerge ; within six and a half or eight months the side incisives, or corner teeth, show, and also a fourth grinder. At this period the first dentition is complete. The changes which take place up to the age of three years depend only on the fore-teeth being worn away more or less, and the black hollows being obliterated gradually by con- tact with food. In thirteen to sixteen months the cavities on the surface of the pincers are effaced ; they are then said to be razed. In sixteen to twenty months the intermediate fore- teeth are likewise razed, and in twenty to twenty-four months the same thing takes place with the corner teeth. FIG. 2. Fia 3. AT EIGHTEEN DAYS. AT THREE TEARS. The second dentition commences at the age of two and a half or three years (Fig. 3). The milk-teeth may be recognized by their shortness, their whiteness, and the construction round their base, called the neck of the tooth. The teeth which re- place them have no neck, and are much larger. The pincers are the first to fall out and be replaced by new ones. At the age of from three years and a half to four years the interme- diate fore-teeth experience the same change, and the lower tushes begin to make their appearance. The corner teeth are also renewed when between four and a half to five years ; the upper tushes likewise pierce the gums, and about the same date the sixth grinder shows itself. 18 THE HORSE ises to the child, he will expect exactly what you promise. Here proof becomes faith, because he has never been deceived by the want of performance. Even among men the principle is the same. That man, who is always found truthful, and who performs exactly as he promises to do, becomes a standard of public confidence and trust; but he who disregards truth and the principles of honor, becomes an object of suspicion to all knowing him. As the child, then, is the reflex of the love and truth of the parents in confidence, and the public in him of undoubted integrity — so are we forced to believe the horse becomes in the character of his habits what he is, in exact pro- portion to the teaching and example to which he may have been subject. How to Feed, Water and Drive Do not feed or water heavy before driving, filling the stomach with water and food ; water destroys the juices of the stomach, weakening digestion. The grain becomes swollen and gener- ates a gas, filling the stomach with wind ; the stomach becom- ing diseased, the Bot will work his head into the coating of the stomach. All grain will digest best while the horse is standing still ; and all food that passes oflF without digestion weakens the action of the stomach and bowels, and, in many cases, will scour the horse. The less you feed before driving the better. Then again, you should water very little on the road. Feed mostly at night ; food will then all digest and make flesh and blood. I should advise not more than two quarts in the morning, and the same at noon. I do not feed in the morning, neither do I water. If I was going to make a long and fast drive, I should feed twelve quarts the night before, then my horse would be strong, and feel light and active, and do his work easy. By giving him a little water, the horse will fully digest what he has eaten; if you weaken the juices, of course you weaken digestion. A horse should only be fed what he can easily digest. I think by so doing you will save one third of the grain formerly given. Diseases are caused by too much food and water ; the water destroys the juices, and disables digestion; by feeding most of the grain whilst the horse is at rest, it will fully digest, and leave the horse strong and able to do his work. Giving a great amount of water, diseases the blood and dead- ens the hair. The water must pass in some way; it can't all pass in the urine, and it passes off through the pores of the skin, and causes the hair to become gummed, and makes the horse very hard to clean. So much water passing off through the pores of the flesh destroys the roots of the hair, and causes it to look dull and faded ; then, again, you should be cautious THE HORSE 19 not to drive your horse in cold water, when warm, or throw water on him ; so doing, chills the blood, separates the blood from the watery substances that the blood forms from, and causes disease, the skin will become full of small tumors and the hair fall off. By avoiding too much water on the road, and too m.uch food before driving, and by keeping the horse warm after driving, you avoid disease. Special Advice in Reference to Feeding Horses Never give a horse whole grain. Bruising and wetting it with soft water, you save thirty per cent of its nutritious ef- fects. Steam it in preference to wetting, if you have facilities for doing so. Feed your horse two hours before he begins his day's work. Give him the largest feed at night. Never tie him to a rack ; it is cruel to thus prevent a horse from lying down when he is tired. The best way is to take away your rack altogether, and arrange your stable so as to make it un- necessary to tie up the horse. The stable should always be dry and well littered. Never give your horse hard water, if soft water is to be had. If you cannot get soft water, draw the hard water out of the well two hours before you let him drink it. Beans should be full a year old before they are fit to feed horses ; they should be bruised, the same as grain, not ground. Horse Feed Mixture You ATT recommends for horse feed, the following mixture : Cut hay, two parts ; cut straw, three parts — add to this a quan- tity of bruised beans, oats, or other grain — wet the whole with soft water, and mix it well. Do not feed your horse too much hay, as it is not only a waste of provender, but when he is put to work with an overloaded stomach it endangers his wind. If left to pull hay out of the rack at pleasure, a horse will eat or waste some thirty pounds a day, whereas, by cutting up his hay and mixing it with other feed, as above described, ten pounds is an ample abundance for twenty-four hours. Horses, when worked, should be fed three or four times a day with a mixture of hay, straw, and grain as above described. Give them their food in the manger — be careful that it is sweet and clean. By following these rules, horses will always be in good condition — will not have that swelled belly so peculiar to ani- mals who are allowed to fill their stomachs with hay — and will usually enjoy good health. How to get a Colt from Pasture Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, at such a distance as not to cause them to scare or run. Then 20 THE HORSE approach very slowly ; if they stick up their heads and seem to be frightened, hold on till they become quiet, so as not to run them before you are close enough to drive them in the direction you want them to go. When you begin to drive, do not flourish your arms or halloo, but gently follow them off, leaving the direction free you wish them to take. Thus ta- king advantage of their ingnorance, you will be able to get them in the pound as esaily as the hunter drives the quails into his net. For if they have always run in the pasture un- cared for (as many horses do in prairie countries and on large plantations) there is no reason why they should not be as wild as the sportsman's birds, and require the same gentle treat- ment, if you want to get them without trouble; for the horse, in his natural state, is as wild as any of the undomesticated animals, though more easily tamed than most of them. How to Stable a Colt The next step will be to get the horse into a stable or shed. This should be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion in the horse of any danger befalling him. The best way to do this, is to lead a broken horse into the stable first and hitch him, then quietly walk around the colt and let him go in of his own accord. Be extremely deliberate and slow in your movements, for one wrong move may frighten your horse, i^nd make him think it necessary to escape at all hazards for the safety of his life — and thus make two hour's work of a ten minutes' job ; and this would be all your own fault, and entirely unnecessary — for he will not run unless you run after him, nor will he try to break away unless you attempt to force him into measures. If he does not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in, do not un- dertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside, by gently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at your side, for you might as well raise a club; the horse has never studied anatomy, and does not know but they will unhinge themselves and fly at him. If he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run ; and if he gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he will soon find that you are not going to hurt him; and then you can walk so close around him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get farther from you. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut the door. This will be his first notion of confinement — not knowing how he got into such a place, nor how to get out of it. That he may take it as quietly as possible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, or anything that would annoy him. Then give a few ears of corn, and let him remain alone fifteen THE HORSE 21 or twenty minutes, until he has examined his apartment, and has become reconciled to his confinement. And now, while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, see that your hal- ter is ready and all right, and reflect upon the best mode of operations ; for in horse-breaking, it is highly important that you should be governed by some system. Objects of Fear — How to Prevent Fear Whatever the horse understands to be harmless he does not fear; consequently great pains should be taken to cause him to examine and smell such things as are likely to frighten him in after life. This should be attended to in his early educa- tion, since early impressions are strong in the horse. A log or stump by the roadside, if regarded with suspicion, should be approached slowly or cautiously ; to the imagination of the horse, such things are supposed to be some great beast that may spring upon him, but which he will soon comprehend to be harmless if obliged to examine its nature in his own way, by advancing to the object and allowing him to understand it fully by smelling and breathing with the nose. The boy frightened by a false face will care nothing about it after he takes it in his hands and examines it ; and the principal is the same in familiarizing horses to objects of fear. If your horse is frightened at an umbrella, you can soon learn him to be used to that. Go into the stable with him, and first let him look at the umbrella before it is opened — let him touch it with his nose. Open it a little way and then let him see it; and finally open it wide. By ordinary patience you can soon learn the horse to have the umbrella opened suddenly in his face, without being afraid of it. By a similar treat- ment you can break any horse from scaring at almost any thing that may look frightful to him. If you wish to make a trial of this theory, just take a horse into the stable and let him examine the frightful object a few minutes after his mode of examining things, and you will be perfectly satisfied. There is a singular fact connected with taming the horse that I would have never believed if I had not tried it. If you accus- tom him to any particular object by showing it to him on one side only, he will not be afraid when he sees it with the eye on that side; but he will be afraid if you approach him with it on the other side. It is, therefore, necessary to pacify him on both sides in all cases. After you have accustomed him to the umbrella, or whatever you may wish to make him familiar with, on his right side, repeat the operation on the left side in the same manner as if you had not approached him at all. 22 THE HORSE The Kind of Halter to be Usedi and How to Put It On the Colt Never use a rope halter. The cords of the rope are hard, and appears to aggravate and excite distrust rather than con- fidence ; but by all means procure a leather halter made of bridle leather, so it will feel soft and pliable to the touch, and to fit tolerably tight on the head, so as not to feel uncomfort- able. Before putting a halter on the colt, he must be rendered familiar with it by carressing him and permitting him to ex- amine the article with his nose. Then place a portion of it over his head, occasionally giving it a slight pull, and in a few minutes he will be accustomed to these liberties, and then the halter may be fastened on properly. To teach him to lead is another difficulty. Stand a little on one side, rub his nose and forehead, take hold of the strap and pull gently, and at the same time touch him very lightly with the end of a long whip across his hind legs. This will make him start forward a few steps. Repeat the operation several times and he will soon learn to follow you by simply pulling the halter. The mouth of the colt should be frequently handled, after which introduce a plain snaffle between his teeth and hold it there witli one hand while you caress him with the other. After a time he will allow the bridle to be placed upon him. The saddle can then be brought in and rubbed against his nose, his neck, and his legs ; next hang the stirrup strap across his back, and gradually insinuate the saddle into its place. The girth should not be fastened, until he becomes thoroughly acquainted with the saddle. The first time the girth is buckled, it should be done so loosely as not to attract his atten- tion ; subsequently it can be tightened without inspiring him with fear, which, if fastened immediately, it would most cer- tainly do. In this manner the wildest colt can be effectually subjugated by such imperceptible degrees that he gives tacit obedience before he is aware of his altered condition. To Break a Horse to Harness Take him in a tight stable, take the harness and go through the same process as you would with the saddle, until you get him familiar with them, so you can put them on his back and rattle them about without his caring for them. As soon as he will bear them, put on the lines, caress him as you draw them over him, and drive him about in the stable till he will bear them over his hips. The lines are a great aggravation to some colts, and often frighten them as much as if you were to raise a whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the harness and lines, take him out and put him by the side of a gentle THE HORSE 23 horse, and go through the same process that you did with the blinds when you are breaking a horse to harness. After fixing the lines, then hitrh the horse to a small log that he can draw very easy, with iong traces, frequently turn- ing him, so that the traces will draw lightly against his legs — frequently stopping and petting him ; then hitch him to some- thing heavier ; then get behind him and drive him. By thus working with him you will make a strictly true horse of him — he also getr so that he is not afraid of the traces or harness. You r?.n then proceed to hitch him to a buggy or wagon. Persons should not drive fast at first hitching a colt in harness — he should be handled very careful at first. In handling colts in this way you will have no trouble with them, but will have a much better broke horse, and one that would be more safe for a family. A horse broken in this way is not half so easily spoiled as one broken by any other process. In breaking horses to ride they should be handled in very much the same way as I have spoken of. After biting them sufficiently you may proceed to saddle them ; then ride them over two or three miles at a time — not enough to tire them. To Break Horses to Stand the Fire of a Gun You commence by administering the three articles first men- tioned in the nostrils this will prevent him from smelling the powder. Then load your pistol — but very light, so as to make the report as light as possible ; every time you fire, give him a small piece of an apple, with some powder on it ; then rub and pat him on the head and neck. When you first commence firing, stand close to the horse's shoulders, rest your arms on his withers. After you have fired a sufficient number of times mount the horse and shoot from his back. Keeping up this practice for a short time, the horse will get so that he will not care anything about the fire of a gun at any time or place. Necessity of Repetition of Lessons and a Thorough Training The horse must be convinced by repeated proofs of being over-matched that resistance is useless. For since his willing- ness and rebellion are each based upon the limited reasoning of his experience, he must be thoroughly convinced by expe- rience that unconditional submission is the only alternative ; this you cannot prove to the understanding of the horse with- out repeating your lessons until he submits unconditionally. But as nursing and care is to the patient over the force of dis- ease, so is the subjugation of the horse — his submission should be encouraged and rewarded by kindness, and feeding from 24 THE HORSE the hand with little presents of such things as he likes. That master is supreme in his control, and submission to his com- mands becomes a pleasure, who has the power to enforce his will, but who exercises it with the sweetening encouragement of love. While force is necessary, and you have the means of making your horse almost a plaything in your hands, let the silken cord of love be the cement that fixes and secures this submission to your will. A good-natured, clever man, it is admitted, can teach a horse almost anything, and it has be- come a proverb that kindness will lead an elephant by a hair. Show your horse exactly what you want him to do, and en- deavor to use the patience and reason in teaching and con- trolling him, you would believe necessary for yourself to un- derstand if placed in like circumstances. Ignorant of the lan- guage and intentions of such a teacher, who even preserved his patience, and refrained from abuse, what progress would you make as a pupil — gifted as you are with all your intelli- gence? If possible, ennoble and elevate your feelings by real- izing your responsibility to yourself, to the community, and to the noble animal committed to your charge. Make your horse a friend by kindness and good treatment. Be a kind master, and not a tyrant — make your horse a willing servant, and not a slave. How to Proceed with the Colt after Haltering The first time you halter a colt you should stand on the left side, pretty well back to his shoulder, taking hold of that part of the halter that goes around his neck, then with your two hands about his neck you can hold his head to you, and raise the halter on it without making him dodge,, by putting your hands about his nose. You should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you have the halter on attach this to it ; so that you can let him walk the length of the stable without letting go the strap, or without making him pull on the halter, for if you only let him feel the weight of your hand on the halter, and give him more rope when he runs from you, he will never rear, pull or throw himself, yet you will be holding him all the time, and doing more towards gentling him than if you had the power to snub him right up, and hold him to one spot ; because he knows nothing about his strength, and if you don't do anything to make him pull, he will never know what he can do in that way. In a few minutes you can begin to conrtol him with the halter, then shorten the distance be- tween yourself and the horse by taking up the strap in your hand. As soon as he will allow you to hold him by a tolerably THE HORSE 25 short strap, and to step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give him some idea about leading. But to do this, do not go before him and attempt to pull him after you, but commence by pulling him very quietly to one side. He has nothing to brace either side of his neck, and will soon yield to a steady, gradual pull of the halter; as soon as you have pulled him a step or two to one side, step up and caress him, and then pull him again, repeating this operation until you can pull him in every direction, and walk about the stable with him ; this you can do in a few minutes, for he will soon think when you have made him step to the right and left a few times, that he is compelled to follow the pull of the halter, not knowing that he has the power to resist your pull- ing ; besides you have handled him so gently that he is not afraid of you, but rather likes you. After you have given him a few lessons of this kind, at proper intervals, he will be so tame that if you turn him out to pasture, he will come up to you to be caressed every opportunity he gets. While training him in the stable, you should lead him about some time before you take him out, opening the door, so that he can see out, leading him up to it and back again, and then past it. See that there is nothing on the outside to make him jump when you take him out, and as you go out with him, try to make him go very slowly, catching hold of the halter close to the jaw with your left hand, while the right is resting on the top of his neck, holding to his mane. Do not allow anyone to be present or in sight, during your operations, either in or outside the stable. If you are entirely alone, and manage your colt rightly, you will soon be able to lead and hold him as easily as you could a horse already broken. Do Not Try To Force The Colt If Excited When excited the colt is not in a condition to understand what you require of him, or to .be submissive. You should also be careful not to train the colt until he becomes heated and confused. But little should be required at a time, and hold to that point until you gain it thoroughly before you un- dertake to do more. For example : in making a colt follow, if he submits ever so little, caress and reward him for it, and so continue and you will have no trouble. When you resort to force do it sharply, so as to impress him as much as possible with your power. How to Proceed if a Colt is Stubborn If the animal you are operating upon seems to be a stubborn or mulish disposition rather than wild ; if he lay back his ears as you approach him, or turn his heel to kick you, he has not 26 THE HORSE that regard or fear of man that he should have, to enable you to handle him quickly and easily ; and it might do well to give him a few sharp cuts with the whip, about the legs, pretty close to the body. It will crack keen as it plies about the legs, and the crack of the whip will affect him as much as thr stroke ; besides, one sharp cut about the legs will affect him more than two or three over the back, the skin on the inner part of the legs or about his flanks being thinner, and more tender than on his back. Do not whip him much ; only just enough to scare him ; it is not to hurt the horse that we whip him ; we do it to scare bad disposition out of him. But whatever you do, do quickly, sharply and with a good deal of fire, but always without anger. If you go to scare him at all, you must do it at once. Never go into a pitched battle with your horse, and whip him until he is mad, and will fight you: you had better not touch him at all, for you will establish, instead of fear and regard, feelings of resentment, hatred, and ill-will. It will do him no good, but harm, to strike him, unless you frighten him ; if you succeed in frightening him, you can whip him without making him mad; for fear and anger never exist together in a horse, and as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other has disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him, so that he will stand up straight and pay some attention to you, approach him again and caress him a good deal more than you whipped him ; thus you will excite the two controlling passions of his nature, love and fear; he will love, and fear you too ; and as soon as he learns what you require, he will obey quickly. If the colt is of too mulish a disposition to yield to careful and gentle treatment, as here given, you must resort to the sev- eral measures recommended for taming vicious horses. To Make a Colt Follow Under the Whip After the colt comes around to you readily by pulling a little on the halter, and follows freely, take your whip in the right hand ; pull upon the halter a little saying : "Come here. Sir !" And at the same time tap lightly with the whip over the hips ; he will come to you mainly because you have taught him to yield to a slight pull upon the head, and will come to you at this signal, and because he wishes to get away from the touch of the whip behind. As soon as he comes to you, caress him and feed him from the hand with something he likes ; repeat this, each time pulling upon the halter, until he will come to you as readily by tapping with the whip as he did at first to the halter. Now, instead of hitting with the whip, commence by snapping it behind him ; if he comes, caress and encourage as before, and so repeat, at each time increasing the THE HORSE 27 distance from him, until he will follow or come to you quickly by cracking the whip. A few lessons of the foregoing kind, will make him run after you, when he sees the motion of the whip — in twenty or thirty minutes he will follow you around the stable. After you have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him in a small lot and train him ; and from thence you can take him into the road, and make him follow you anywhere and run after you. How To Make a Horse Stand Still Without Hifching After you have well broken him to follow you, stand him in the centre of the stable — begin at the head to caress him, and gradually work backwards. If he moves, give him a cut with the whip, and put him back to the same spot from where he started. If he stands, caress him as before, and continue gentling him in this way until you can get around him without making him move. Keep walking round him, increasing your pace, and only touch him occasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around, and if he then moves, give him another cut with the whip and put him back to his place. If he stands, go to him frequently and caress him, and then walk round again. Do not keep him in one position too long at a time. How to Lead a Colt with a Broke Horse If you should want to lead your colt by the side of another horse, you must first put the horse into a stable with the colt. You first attach a second strap to the colt's halter, and lead your horse up along side of him. Then get on the broke horse, and take one strap round his breast under the martin- gale, (if he has any on), holding it on your left hand. This will prevent the colt from getting back too far; besides you have more power to hold him, with the strap pulling against the horse's breast. The other strap take up in your right hand to prevent him from running ahead ; then turn him about in the stable, and if the door is wide enough, ride out with him ixi that position; if not, take the broke horse out first, and stand his breast up against the door, then lead the colt to the same spot and take the straps as before directed, one on each side of his neck, and then let some one start the colt out, and as the colt comes out, turn your horse to the left, and you will have them right. You can manage any kind of a colt this 28 THE HORSE way, without trouble ; for, if he tries to run ahead or pull back, the two straps will bring the two horses facing each other, so that you can very easily follow up his movements without doing much holding, and as soon as he stops running back- ward, you are right with him and all ready to go ahead. If he gets stubborn and does not want to go, you can remove all his stubbornness by riding your horse against his neck, thus com- pelling him to turn to the right; and as soon as you have turned him about a few times, he will be willing to go along. The next thing, after you are through leading him, will be to take him into a stable and hitch him in such a way as not to have him pull on the halter. How to Lead a Colt Into a Stable You should lead a broken horse into the stable first, and get the colt, if you can to follow in after him. If he refuses to go, step up to him, taking a little stick or switch in your right hand ; then take hold of the halter close to his head with your left hand, at the same time reaching over his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the op- posite side with your switch ; bring him up facing the door, tap him slightly with your switch, reaching as far back with it as you can. This tapping, by being pretty well back, ^nd on the opposite side, will drive him ahead, and keep him close to you ; then by giving him the right direction with your left hand you can walk into the stable with him. I have walked colts into the stable this way in less than a minute, after men had worked at them half an hour, trying to pull them in. If you cannot walk him in at once in this way, turn him about and walk him around awhile until you can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then let him stand a few min- utes, keeping his head in the right direction with the halter, and he will soon walk in of his own accord. Never attempt to pull the colt into the stable ; that would make him think at once that it was a dangerous place, and if he was not afraid of it before he would be then. Besides, we do not want him to know anything about pulling on the halter. If you want to tie up your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall, which should not be too long, and should be connected by a bar or some- thing of that kind to the partition behind it; so that, after the colt is in he cannot go far enough back to take a straight, back- ward pull on the halter ; then by tying him in the centre of the stall, it would be impossible for him to pull on the halter, the partition behind preventing him from going back, and the hal- ter in the centre checking him every time he turns to the right or left. In a stall of this kind you can break any horse to stand tied with a light strap, anywhere, without his ever know- THE HORSE 29 ing anything about pulling. For if you have broken your horse to lead, and have taught him the use of the halter (which you should always do before you hitch him to anything), you can hitch him in any kind of a stall, and if you give him some- thing to eat to keep him up to his place for a few minutes at first, there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on his halter, or ever attempt to do so. This is an important feature in breaking the colt, for if he is allowed to pull on the halter at all, and particularly if he finds out that he can break the halter, he will never be safe. THE EUREKA BRIDLE The most powerful means of learning a colt to lead is by the use of what is designated or called the Eureka Bridle. How to Make the Eureka Bridle Take a cotton cord made of fine yarn such as is sometimes used for a bed cord or clothes line, usually about three eighths of an inch thick. If you cannot get cotton cord, hemp or any- thing of the kind that is strong enough will answer the pur- pose. Let it be about fifteen feet long, tie one end into a hard knot, just as you would to prevent its raveling ; tie another knot about ten inches or little more from the one on the end, but before you draw it tight, put the knot on the end through. You now have a loop that will not slip, made on the same principle that a rope is tied around the neck of a horse to hitch with, so as not to tighten upon the neck by pulling upon it. This loop should be just large enough to slip over the under jaw of the horse you wish to train ; put this loop over the lower jaw, then, while standing on the near side, take the cord in the left hand and bring over the neck by passing the left hand under the neck to the opposite side towards the mane, bring the right hand over the neck and take the cord from the left and pass back to the loop, and put through from the top side, until the part over the neck is drawn down like a check-rein; now take hold of the end of the rein, and you will find you have a means of power in it that makes the strongest horse al- most a plaything in your hands. The objection to the use of the Eureka Bridle in the train- ing of the innocent colt, is, that the ignorant are inconsiderate in its use. Instead of using it with the utmost mildness a little resistance on the part of the colt is made an excuse to use 30 THE HORSE it in the most severe manner, until the colt either submits un- conditionally, or becomes so desperate with pain as to be en- tirely reckless and regardless of the utmost efforts. When your horse resists too much you will always find it to your advantage to put him away for a short time until he be- comes cool. In fact, the great secret of training is in not train- too long, and repeating. If you intend using the Eureka Bridle as a means of subduing your colt, put it on after you tamper him on three legs, with the strap over the back. As soon as he submits cleverly to this step, instead of fastening up the leg as by the method already described, take off your strap. Then put on the Eureka Bridle gently, when step to one side and back, and say: "Come here sir!" pulling a very little upon the bridle, just enough to bring his head towards you a little. Now step up to him and pat him on the neck, and say, "You are a fine fellow." Then try again in the same way, and so repeat until he will come to you quite freely. You may increase your force upon the bridle in proportion to his submission, but not if he show stubbornness. You may then step to the other side and repeat the lesson until he will come to you either way cheerfully. Now you wish him to follow you; continue your training in this way, gradually pulling a little more on a line with his body, until he will follow as well ahead as he does sideways. How to Break Horses to Ride If a colt, you must first supple the muscles of the back be- fore permitting much weight to be carried. You must keep in mind that he is not accustomed to carry weight, and that to put one hundred and fifty pounds on would be entirely wrong. You must give the colt to understand that you are his friend. It will require but a few days to supple the muscles of the neck and back ; then you have a horse that will guide easily. After the first three days, the horse will carry one hundred and twenty-five pounds easier than at first he would carry forty. You will now fasten the saddle on, but not too far forward ; buckle the girths tight, and let him remain a few moments ; then approach him gently, pat him on the neck, and draw up the reins tight, with the left hand to the withers ; put the foot in the stirrup, and bear gently on the saddle, then pat him gently on the back and rump, speaking very low during the time. Then rise gently, throwing the right leg over the saddle, and sit perfectly still for a few moments ; then^. dis- mount and caress him, patting his head and back, after doing so a few times he will be as submissive as a lamb. THE HORSE 31 As to Heindting the Feet of a Horse Should the colt refuse to have his feet handled, he may be made to submit by reproving with the bridle and putting a small strap on the hind foot, then pull on this strap and bring the foot up ; then at the moment he kicks, bring down on the mouth sharply with the bridle. In a short time he will sub- mit to your control unconditionally. The same principle ap- plies to the use of this under all circumstances. It is a means of reproof, and certainly has a powerful effect upon a horse. How to Teach a Horse to Pace First take nine or ten pound of lead, divide in four parts, equal to three and three-quarter inches, by four and a half in size; make two holes in each end of these leads, then fasten two of them together and have them padded. Then fasten them on the horse's legs, one on each hind leg, just above the ankle joint. Ride your horse briskly with those weights upon his ankles, at the same time pulling each rein of the bridle al- ternately. By this means you immediately throw him into a pacey After you have in this way trained him to some extent, change your leaden weights to something lighter ; leather pad- dings, or something equal to it will answer the purpose. Let him wear those weights until he is perfectly trained. By adopting this plan, you will speedily make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse. Management of Wild Horses Cause your horse or colt to be put in a small yard, stable, or room. If in a stable or room, it ought to be large in order to give some exercise with the halter before you lead him out. If the horse belongs to that class which only appears to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into the stable, room, or yard where the horse is. He will naturally run from you, and frequently turn his head towards you; but you must walk about extremely slow and softly, so that he can see whenever he turns his head towards you which he never fails to do in a short time — in a quarter or half an hour. I never knew one to be much longer without turning his head towards me. At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your left hand to- wards him, and stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, watching his motions, if he make any. If the horse does not stir for ten or fifteen minutes, advance as slowly as possible, and without making the least noise, always holding out your left hand. If the horse makes the least motion when you advance towards him, stop and remain perfectly still until 32 THE HORSE he is quiet. Remain a few moments in this condition, and then advance again in the same slow and almost imperceptible manner. If the horse then stirs again, stop without changing your position. It is very uncommon for the horse to stir more than once after you begin to advance ; yet there are some exceptions. He generally keeps his eyes steadfast upon you until you get near enough to touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise slowly and by degrees your hand, and let it come in contact with that part just above the nostrils, as possible. If the horse flinches (as many will), re- peat with great rapidity these light strokes upon the fore- head, going a little further up towards his ears by degrees, and descending with the same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. Now let the strokes be repeated with more force over all his forehead, descending by lighter strokes to each side of his head, until you can handle that part with equal facility. Then touch in the same light manner, making your hands and fingers play around the lower part of the horse's ears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be looked upon as the helm that governs all the rest. Having succeeded in handling his ears, advance towards the neck, with the same precautions and in the same manner; observing always to augment the force of the strokes when- ever the horse will permit it. Perform the same on both sides of the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms without flinching. Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to the back of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness, return immediately to the forehead, as the true standard, patting him with your hands, and thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, always gaining ground a considerable distance farther on every time this happens. The head, ears, neck, and body being thus gentled, proceed from the back to the root of the tail. This must be managed with dexterity, as a horse is never to be depended on that is skittish about the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidly on that part next to the body a minute or two, and then you will begin to give it a slight pull upwards every quarter of a minute. At the same time you continue this handling of him, augment the force of the strokes as well as the raising of the tail, until you can raise it and handle it with the greatest ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in most horses, in others almost imme- diately, and in some much longer. It now remains to handle all his legs ; from the tail come back again to the head — handle •t well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc., speaking now THE HORSE 33 and then to the horse. Begin by degrees to descend to the legs, always ascending and descending, gaining ground every time you descend until you get to his feet. Talk to the horse while you are thus taming him ; let him hear the sound of your voice, which at the beginning of the operation, is not quite so necessary, but which I have always done in making him lift up his feet. "Hold up your foot," you will say, at the same time lifting up his foot with your hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and will hold up his foot at command. Then, proceed to the hind feet, and go on in the same manner ; and in a short time the horse will let you lift them, and even take them up in your arms. All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism; it is merely taking away the fear that the horse generally has of man, and familiarizing the animal with his master. As the horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasure from this hand- ling, he will soon become gentle under it, and show very marked attachment to his keeper. The Kind of a Bit to Use and How to Use It To accustom a colt to the bit, you should use a large, smooth snaffle, so as not to hurt his mouth, with a bar at each side to prevent it from pulling through either way. This should be attached to the headstall of your bridle, and put it on your colt without any reins to it, and let him run loose in a large stable or shed some time, until he becomes a little used to the bit, and will bear it without trying to get it out of his mouth. Repeat this several times before you do anything more with the colt ; and as soon as he will bear the bit, attach a single rein to it, without any martingale. You should also have a halter on your colt, or a bridle made after the fashion of a halter, with a strap to it, so that you can hold or lead him about without pulling much on the bit. Farmers often put bitting harness on a colt the first thing they do to him, buckling it on as tight as they can draw it, to make him carry his head high, and then turn him out in a lot to run half a day at a time. This is one of the very worst pun- ishments they can inflict on a colt, and is very injurious to a young horse that has been used to running in pasture with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in this way that they never got over it. A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you put on the bitting harness, and when you first bit him you should only rein his head up to the point where he naturally holds it, let that point be high or low ; he will soon learn that he cannot lower his head, and that raising it a little will loosen the bit in 34 THE HORSE his mouth. This will give him an idea of raising his head to loosen the bit, and then you can draw the bitting a little tighter every time you put it on, and he will still raise his head to loosen it. By this means you will gradually get his head and neck in the position you want him to carry it, and give him a nice and graceful carriage without hurting him, making him mad, or causing his mouth to get sore. Horses that have their heads drawn up tightly, should not have the bitting on more than fiteen minutes at a time. How to Make a Bitting Bridle for an Unruly Horse Take the Eureka Bridle, already described, and fix a loop upon the other end, just like that already used to put around the jaw, but big enough to go over the head and fit over the neck, rather tight, where the collar is worn. Now bring your cord forward, put through the mouth from the off side, and bring back on the near side and put through the loop around the neck. Pull upon this cord, and the head will be drawn back to the breast. You are now prepared to bit. Simply pull upon the cord a little, which will draw the head back slightly ; after holding for a short time, render loose ; then draw up a little tighter, and so repeat for four or five times. Then stop bitting and repeat at some future time till you have the horse entirely under your control. How to Saddle a Colt Any one man who has this theory, can put a saddle on the wildest horse that ever grew, without any help, and without scaring him. The first thing will be to tie each stirrup strap into a loose knot, to make them short and prevent the stirrups from flying about and hitting him. Then double up the skirts and take the saddle in your right arm, so as not to frighten him with it when you approach. When you get to him, rub him gently a few times with your hand, then raise the saddle very slowly, until he can see it, and smell, and feel it with his nose. Then let the skirts loose, and rub it very gently against his neck the way the hair lays, letting him hear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them against him, each time a little fur- ther backward, and finally slip it over on his back. Shake it a little with your hand, and in less than five minutes you can rattle it about over his back as you please, and pull it off and throw it on again, without his paying much attention to it. As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten the girth. Be careful how you do this. It often frightens the colt when he feels the girth binding him, and making the saddle fit tight on his back. You should bring up the girth THE HORSE . 35 very gently, and not draw it too tight at first, jr.st enough to hold the saddle on. Move him a little, and then girth it as tight as you choose, and he will not mind it. You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right be- fore you put it on, and that there is nothing to make it hurt him, or feel unpleasant to his back. It should not have any loose straps on the back part of it, to flap about and scare him. After you have saddled him in this way, take a switch in your right hand to tap him up with, and walk about in the stable a few times with your right arm over your saddle, taking hold of the reins on each side of his neck with your right and left hands, thus marching him about in the stable u::til you teach him the use of the bridle and can turn him about in any di- rection, and spot him by a gentle pull of the rein. Always caress him, and loose the reins a little every time you stop him. You should always be alone, and have your colt in some light stable or shed the first time you ride him ; the loft should be high so that you can sit on his back without endangering your head. You can teach him more in two hours' time in a stable of this kind, than you could in two weeks in the common way of breaking colts, out in an open place. If you follow my course of treatment, you need not run any risk, or have any trouble in riding the worst kind of horse. You take him a step at a time, until you get up a mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse. First teach him to lead and stand hitched ; next acquaint him with the saddle, and the use of the bit ; and then all that remains is to get on him without scaring him, and you can ride him as well as any horse. How to Mount a Colt First gentle him well on both sides, about the saddle and all over, until he will stand still without holding, and is not afraid to see you anywhere about him. As soon as you have him well gentled, get a small block about one foot or eighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side of him, about where you want to stand and mount him ; step up on this, raising yourself very gently. Horses notice every change of position very closely, and if you were to step up suddenly on the block, it would be very apt to scare him ; but by raising yourself grad- ualy on it, he will see you without being frightened, in a po- sition very near the same as when you are on his back. As soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup strap next to you, and put your left foot in the stirrup, and stand square over it, holding your knee against the horse, and your toe out, so as to touch him under the fore-shoulder with the toe of your boot. Place your right hand on the front of the 26 THE HORSE saddle, and on the opposite side of you, taking hold of a por- tion of the mane and reins (they hang loosely over his neck), with your left hand then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup and on your right hand, until the horse feels your whole weight on the stirrup ; repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a little higher from the block, until he will allow you to raise your leg over his croup, and place yourself in the saddle. Another, and in some cases a better way of mounting, is to press the palm of your right hand on the off-side of the saddle, and as you rise lean your weight on it. By this means you can mount with the girths loose, or without any girths at all. There are three great advantages in having a block to mount from. First, a sudden change of position is very apt to frighten a young horse that has never been handled ; he will allow you to walk to him, and stand by his side without scar- ing at you, because you have gentled him to that position ; but if you get down on your hands and knees and crawl towards him, he will be very much frightened; and upon the same principle, he would frighten at your new position if you had the power to hold yourself over his back without touching him. Then, the first great advantage of the block is to gradually gentle him to that new position in which he will see you when you ride him. Secondly, by the process of holding your weight in the stirrups, and on your hand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight, so as not to frighten him by having him to feel it all at once. And, in the third place, the block ele- vates you so, that you will not have to make a spring in order to get on the horse's back, but from it you can gradually raise yourself into the saddle. When you take these precautions, there is no horse so wild but that you can mount him without making him jump. I have tried it on the worst horses that can be found, and have never failed in any case. When mounting, your horse should always stand without being held. A horse is never well broke when he has to be held with a tight rein when mounting; and a colt is never so safe to mount as when you see that assurance of confidence and absence of fear, which cause him to stand wihtout holding. How to Ride a Colt When you want a colt to start, do not touch him on the side with your heel, or do anything to frighten and make him jump. At once speak to him kindly, and if he does not start, pull him a little to the left until he does so, then let him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk him around in the stable a few times until he gets used to the bit, you can turn him about in every direction and stop him as you please. It will be well to THE HORSE 37 get on and off a good many times until he gets perfectly used to it before you take him out of the stable. After you have trained him in this way, v»rhich should not take more than two or three hours, you can ride him anywhere you choose without ever having him jump o" make an effort to throw you. When you first take him out of the stable, be very gentle with him, as he will feel a little more at liberty to jump or run, and be easier frightened than he was while in the stable; but will nevertheless find him pretty well broke, and will be able to manage him without trouble or danger. When you first mount a colt, take a little the shortest hold on the left rein, so that if anything frightens him, you can prevent him from jumping by pulling his head round to you. This operation of pulling a horse's head round against his side will prevent him from jumping ahead, rearing up, or running away. If he is stubborn and will not go, you can make him move by pulling his head around to one side, when whipping him would have no effect. Turning him around a few times will make him dizzy, and then by letting him have his head straight, and giving him a little touch with the whip, he will go along without any trouble. Never use martingales on a colt when you first drive him every movement of the hand should go right to the bit in the direction in which it is applied to the reins, without a martin- gale to change the direction of the force applied. You can guide the colt much better without it, and teach him the use of the bit in much less time. Besides, martingales would pre- vent you from pulling his head round if he should try to jump. After your colt has been ridden until he is gentle and well accustomed to the bit, you may find it an advantage, if he carries his head too high or his nose too far out, to put martin- gales on him. You should be careful not to ride your colt so far at first as to heat, worry, or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is a little fatigued ; gentle him and let him rest ; this will make him kind to you, and prevent him getting stubborn or mad. Foot Strap, and How to Use It Take a common strap or rope about the size of the Eureka Bridle. The Eureka bridle will do by untying one of the loops. Fasten the end untied carefully to the forward foot, below the fetlock. Pass the other end over the bellyband of the harness and carry it back on the left side to the sulky over the hold- back strap of the breechen, and hold as a third rein in your hand. You have in this strap or cord, connected with the foot 38 THE HORSE in this way, a means of control, with which you can almost as easily as if a plaything, control a horse while moving in the harness, and embodies one of the most valuable and effective means of controlling a horse in harness yet demonstrated. If the horse attempts to run away, simply pulling upon your strap throws him instantly upon three legs, and he has to stop. If he attempts to run back, the same remedy stops him. If he attempts to kick, you attract his attention forward instantly, and at the same time make it impossible for him to kick. How to Prevent a Horse Running Away Put on the foot strap, and when he attempts to run take up his foot, make him run, and tripping every time he will not stop instantly at the word "Whoa." Should he be of the ex- tremely wilful character, he may run on three legs. If you mistrust so, attach another strap to the opposite foot. Then make him run, and if he will not run for the taking up the second, which will destroy his confidence at once, when one strap will answer just as well. Make your lesson thorough, so that the horse will stop every time you call "whoa." Although we have given a powerful means of coercion and of impressing the horse of his inability to resist the will of man, still practical and thorough as are those means, they are but of little account if not used with prudence and judgment. How to Moke a Horse Lie Down Everything we want to teach the horse must be commenced hi such a way as to give him an idea of what we want him to do, and then be repeated till he learns it perfectly. To make a horse lie down, bend his left fore-leg and slip a loop over it, so that he cannot let it down. Then put a surcingle around his body, and fasten one end of a long strap around the other fore- leg, just above the hoof. Place the other end under the be- fore-described surcingle, so as to keep the strap in the right direction ; take a short hold of it with your right hand ; stand on the left side of the horse; grasp the bit in your left hand pull steadily on the strap with your right; bear against his shoulder till you cause him to move. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise the other foot, and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the strap tight in your hand, so