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s AND FALL

N FOR SPRING

E GARDE

J

A COTTAC

N. H.,

bury,

estate of Clarence S. Hay at New

a little cottage for spring and fall occupancy.

The

with herbaceous

surrounds it is
that bloom

that
Prentice

garden

plant

filled

and late.

architect

both early

was the landscape

profusely

Sanger

HOUSE & GARDEN’S
BOOK of GARDENS

Containing over Four Hundred Illustrations of Special Flower
Types. Plans and Suggestions for Landscape Work. a Complete
Gardener’s Calendar of the Year’s Activities, Planting and
Spraying Tables, and A Portfolio of Beautiful Gardens in

Varied Sections of the United States and Foreign Countries

Edited by
RICHARDSON WRIGHT
Editor of House & Garden

1921
NEW YORK

CONDE NAST & COMPANY

The
HOUSE & GARDEN

BOOKS

Pier
House & Garden’s
Book of. Houses

—Q)
@

House & Garden’s
Book of Interiors

oO)

House & Garden’s

Book of Gardens

god)
@

Copyright March 1921 by
Condé Nast & Co.

9)
L 2

2.20 854
MAY 16 1945

| [xe
4

“Shp ep aes

GON TE NTS

Aw COTTAGE GARDEN FOR SPRING AND) HALL. 22-2. s0.0-se0- coe oe cece eee 2
Prentice Sanger, L. A.

RISETEMBIROAD TOMAR CAD Vergo yatcrsinrsoricporate sais taa eens eae e/el Sisvewie soles ares ate Salone 6
William B. Tubby, Architect

THe MIRACLE WORKERS OF THE GARDEN............ 000. e eee eens eeteecs 7
Richard Le Gallienne

IDAREODING) os Geen eo OU Ee CO GOODE Rd OORT oy Sao e reno Erne rnc cee tna 7
Sara Hamilton Birchall

RE DUN GREED EVARD Va ORDERS sr ievalcreyever sie iuelceae ie eles ielehe) susievaVaneneusselon ketelsienateus As

TON GRE MTR S Ta OT OOM. aueiei ciel ayers) shersi«)ncepedcuejeiere /s eleueteseysrcheyeisieerstselens 10
Marian C. Coffin, L. A.

LO UIRMOFMMIEDEM ROSE PE VAMEILTE Siar )c0- (a /-televeieisse,sccveva «sue versivele oie ehshevere eierescbs Ghecets fakes 11

ERMAN (GOODE GIETNIBTN GP IROSES | ois ss cireicce eis hse ose. i e/nieseiolaie(olsisleys ereteneienshete talet ats 12

FNWBID O ZINN OODEVAININTUIAIES eye seve ere fers. cn erciene esos) 12 isseseicle ie eleloleleosnencieletoeeretsts 13

IBFONITESEEOR BEGINNER! AND (COLLECTOR: c)-0 0. <j cee lee eee eles lect sc 14

ESHA S PRE EA ey ts tase ye le av-siccu ns a cge che sae jerslcseperedolieie,cuelle iene ister aleisloteeveleue Slopare 15

FRI SMERORMPATEEMBESTIA CES cao sever. rare tanasereteia oy scinislc (als evepersuslle creleveVe: cicletantahe @/earjeveyate 17

DAES osccodgcsoooou ves bUoddde Dado DOD OU DUddDOORODODUO OOD dodD OOD 18

BGAN DINGS FOR DHE HOUSE FOUNDATIONS.........----+--.00--seene ese 19
C. S. Le Sure, L. A.

GHESMAN DECC mL OU SEC ceri eiicleleiteicieninicierancisllelelerieieieloielinieicrenel starrer 20
Brown & Whiteside, Architects

PLANTING DeEcipuOUS TREES AND SHRUBS........---0eeeeeeeee cece teers 21
Elizabeth Leonard Strang, L. A.

Tim Ann om lst eiNe ogsedau oouoenooUboddoUDdooNee Tn onnooosoeeracan 22

SEE GARDEN PUN SIDE DEE LOU Secs ici ictelelelelspelsielo) ofal- lo eieielele sfeleyeeleillers eliane 23

Mimmmnge Sino coaqoccopuudopoDcc ado caooDbHODDUUAOODOODODDOUCUDO 24

AGS TUD VaING GARDENGHDEXTURES siya tie eieieleieielcleie wieiolelersrerclcierete oieie)ejetelereraeietete 26

IBPANINING# GARDENS OF ONE? COLOR: = isc lele lees eleicie oe ele clei eiete a ciaielele 27
Elizabeth Leonard Strang, L. A.

ROCK GARDENSPAN DE EInTR eA lM Sener rite ticiisiteiseiiechyoriciasicr 31

Shp SPIRIE OF) OLD-MASHIONED \GARDENS:.....-..0+--000- 02+ seer sees 34
Elizabeth Leonard Strang, L. A.

A GLACE: COREBERS SB OR AA aS pODO ED DORE O DOR S Oe ano o commences ontart 36
C. W. M. Harrison, L. A.

ELIE OURCUEPING GARDENBAGAW OUD iam cieicie)ciclele ere cicle clclele cio eleieieli-verelol =) icheleleys 37

BAMBINI a URUATES GARDENS icictcy stapes ett erste tabenei elec che eitesaraicies uchavapmicraue, aepacescues ated tat 38
Vitale, Brinkerhof & Geiffert, L. A.

THE GARDEN POSSIBILITIES OF A CITY BACKYARD..............-..-- Base 39

AMOUR ACKWARDE GARDEN ieee ss iersiencte cuore ueusaeieisisyais cic shave poustelepseuee 40
Ruth Dean, L. A.

Slee Crmval GARDEN ORG aH WAND SLY CK iyeleyatejore) -tekelelcicliscehsielcnelclieietepeteter 41

MR OOLRORUENVERYe GARDEN iis < cts: icierecc i eens eneloledsuctelevciciars: « eiebepmienepaol as 42
Ellen Shipman, L. A.

AMERICAN SCULPTURE FOR AMERICAN GARDENS..........----+-+---5- Spun)
Harold A. Caparn, L. A. U
SEGRE GARDEN OUSES PEt eine ete ieee: eer eerie ko

Jack Manley Rosé
EOS TO Wom geod SAT. o5cyuacosaouadoaeo0s duccensodEe So 5ocouseuoddE 47
MANTSEAPING GEOR: “Al SIAL: HE LACE., cfe cee eile e sieieie cles cle ee erelers lene 48
Elizabeth Leonard Strang, L. A.
How Do You ENTER Your GARDEN?.........-.-- 22-2 e eee ee eee 50
FLOWERS FOR THE GARDEN GATE........--------- 25-202 - essere eee 51
Marian C. Coffin, L. A.
ST ONERONEEDEIER GARDEN) PATH REE eee eee ance eee Sense 52
SinES my wes Cheon ooopoqosoodoa se bobaobobooD DSH o oooh bunen asec 54
Marian C. Coffin, L. A.
Arpors, SUMMER HOUSES AND TRELLISES.....-..----+..+2.--2------s5-0% 55
‘Tisa TRING IROCiKsonosoeoadcceooabavesddoAcsos uo DD UODOUdOOROANAdoBaS 56
‘Tiga, Asae iny GA IDS ogoocnpouedoo odo sodooeuoUUdbOduCoUOuNOLS 37
Richard H. Pratt, 2d., L. A.
WiSTAS Iny sea (CNRADEN 4 ooo cocupocc0cduuanoodneoD ooo Oban ODOCODOODONagS 58
, GAMES AND THE LANDSCAPE SCHEME.........--. 0-0-0 e essere ce este eee 60

oo | 2 e

RHE WVANDSCAPESPICTURE sor yene heey. pear CO oe 62
Ralph M. Weinrichter, L. A.

sIvetH ny GARDENS BPN ERO MerREDE y ATR Sp ese 63

iim) GARDEN|OFyDRa Jy HENRY) LANCASHIRE) oh) eee encore eeee eee 64
Mrs. W. A. Hutcheson, L. A.

IN] DEEPA GARDENSKORyVUISSpROSINAW EOWA jeter eee eae eee ee eee 66
Ferruccio Vitale, L. A.

PASNIBETN GUISE) VW/ATU LE Dd GARD Nijssen ea 67

AMEDILLSIDE| GARDEN) IN| IMASSACHUSETIS\: susee cece seen eee 68
Prentice Sanger, L. A.

THE GREEK GARDEN ON THE EsTaTE or SAMUEL UNTERMYER............. 69
Welles Bosworth, Architect

ASNIBEEN GETS Hay hOPTAR Val GARDEN sega teeta ee 70
Romaine-Walker, L. A. 4

AS WALI GARDEN IN Ee) NORGELWEST See see eee eee eee 71
L. M. Thielen, L. A.

TEES EDAW.OR GARDEN Ssy-tsarscnt fe te es crac ay re ol ote 72
Martha Brookes Hutcheson, L. A.

ANG ORGETARD sy ETAT IS SAG GARDEN eee eee an 73
Delano & Aldrich, Architects

AG GARDEN NEAR MW ATER® icles iaciseta nice es Sa eee 74
Marian C.. Coffin, L. A.

A Larticep Forecourt aT Oyster Bay, L. I.....................+« seca 8
Prentice Sanger, L. A.

AG\VATEED GARDENS INE TEES WiOODSEEEE EERE EEE en eee eer nn aae 76

An INTERESTING Group oF NorTH SHORE GARDENS.........-......+--.- 79

In THE GarvEN oF Mrs. T. L. Vartnc, PasapENA, CAL.................- 80
Myron T. Hunt, L. A. 5

INeRETS GARDEN) ORM ANTES SP ARREN ERE See arte a a 81
Ellen Shipman, L. A.

THE GARDEN or G. A. NEWHALL, HitisporoucH, CAL................... 82
Lewis P. Hobart, L. A.

JULIAN ELTINGE’s GARDEN, Los ANGELES, GAL...............-.-........ 83
Charles G. Adams, L. A.

THE GARDEN OF THE VILLA SAN Marino, FLORENCE, ITALY.............. 84

ACNEWALNGLAND) GARDEN EB Ya-DELE) SEA eran a 85

For; tHe; Goopiior, HiseBopye ccm. seein eee 86

AUGUESTSHOUSEVAND) BOULDER) GARDENE hee eee eee ae 87
C. W. M. Harrison, L. A.

IWATERIN) | NGLISH) \GARDENSR ect ee Cee Eee eee ae 88

diet GARDPNEORGE «Gs DALTON CLEVELAND Ofer a eta eae 90
Abram Garfield, Architect

BU ILDIN GTHE, GARDEN |i ts Sarge ieee ier ress eT ee eee eee 92

(Rr BH OURGSDTAGESTORMTERER GARD ENE eee eee it eee 94

GivING TED GARDEN PAWRUNNIN GES DARDS eee eet ne 96

THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR... .97-99-101-103-105-107-109-111-113-115-117-119

(PEE B IG PR WELVE RIN GARDEN EL OOLS Heisei orate an eee 98

HOW; TOUPLANT SSEEDS (ak minseeiers eich eer TS eae eee 100

TELLING Susan Muna sucdy I awn gG awa ud peo Ga nea Hnoobuobcuad Moonee 102

IN YOUR OWN JBERRYABED Soo Sait say eet see oe Dea 104

WHEENP TOW PICK VEGETABLES. ace cepa eee ene ier Cae ee 106

SEMPLE! SURGERY FORSHRUID yD REES erie eerie Seer eee ee 108

DHE Art oF GRowinc Fruir UNDER GLASS--..!.......----+5--50.. 0 110

PRESH > BERRIES—WiITEY CREAM cieyciac. sic cee eee ee 112

ORGETOWERSMberAtn GROW aeUN i ELD Aiello ier teeta ee 114

WINTER A BEDS) FORS SUREMER= | GROPSH eee setae pe eee eer ae 116

(TE MOAST RITES SFORMLEISIaVnAR2S GARDEN) le eines ene 118

(Rees CHARM OEVBOXWOOD N22 ise iene adie s cismiapeeect Eero ae ae 120
Alfred C. Bossom, Architect

HOUSER) GARDENIS GARDENING) GUIDEe =.=) eee een eee eer 121

SPRAVING? BQUIPILENT = aiciet Go itis inc dere le clei = mie C nee eee eee 124

Tue Pests AS THEY APPEAR..... PCO PRO MOAR MOnEr MONS Sada sobs 125

PONTE. (RANTING) “BABLE 3 :2/cyere'sccrsiens =a eierstessval ee fabonqetetersea Sie as Oe ee 126

ADDRESSES OF LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTS, ARCHITECTS AND FLOWER AND GARDEN
SOCIETIES) Suita ace ei one Gia GIT A Eee oe eee 127

6

SATAN SETSS,

TE ROR

Any garden path is a road to Arcady. Set foot upon it,
and inevitably the way leads out of this complex world
into a lovelier kingdom where for towering structures you
have the trees, for canyon streets the green hedge, for city
noises the soothing of gentle winds and the music of birds
water, for the city stench, the perfume of

and tri

House & Garden’

TO A RIGA ay

blossoms. Doubly blest is the man whose road to Arcady
lies down a garden path where flowers crop up between

the flagstones, where sweet alyssum and petunias spill over

ihe roadway and giant asters salute him as he passes. So

it is in the garden of L. H. Lapham at New Canaan, Conn.

William B. Tubby was the architect

S

Book of Gardens

mee MIRAGLEE WORKERS OF THE

GARDEN

Tn the Humbling Touch of Earth Is Found the Exalting Mystery

E take gardens, as we take all our mer-
cies nowadays, too lightly.

Recently a friend of mine, speaking of his
garden, said to me that it made him very
“humble”. It was one of those remarks for
which one grows increasingly grateful; for hu-
mility, the only attitude by which it is possible
to know anything worth knowing, has become
an almost extinct species of human feeling;
and I am far from sure that I can safely leave
my friend’s remarks entirely without commen-
tary. So few feel like him, that for many, I
fear, it will have no meaning. Of course, he
meant that his garden continually brought be-
fore him, so impressively, with such fresh won-
der, the miracle and the mystery of the vital,
the cosmic process.

No one yet knows how or why a flower
grows. We have discovered radium, and em-
ployed delicate and terrible natural forces to
fearful ends; but we are as far from knowing
that as ever. Still, as the present writer once
had the honor of saying: “A grass-seed and a
thimbleful of soil set all the sciences at
nought.’”’ Still Tennyson’s ‘flower in the cran-
nied wall’ baffles all the pundits.

Unless you feel like that about your garden,
you might as well have no garden. Indeed,
you have no garden. You may have a

of the Garden’s Gods
RICHARD Le GALLIENNE

GARDEN is indeed a sanctuary of nat-

ural religion. Upon it are concentrated
the power and the glory and the tenderness of
natural forces. From above and below there
are focused upon it the mysterious operations
of sun and rain and dew, in unison with the
chemic, one feels like saying the alchemic,
properties of the soil itself.

The man who looks after his own garden is
continually in the presence of the inspiring
strangeness, the ever new surprise and thrill of
the creative marvel. He takes a bulb in his
hand, dry and crackling and to all appear-
ances dead as an Egyptian mummy. Scm2-
where within its tiny cerements hides the spark
of life; though, should he unfold one layer
after the other, he would seek in vain for its
presence. So the man of science seeks for the
soul of man in his body, and not finding it,
pronounces it non-existent. Who would be-
lieve that this dry and dusty relic when buried
an inch or two in dark earth, seemingly as un-
vital as itself, mere inert matter to all appear-
ance, shall be met there in the darkness with
warm awakening energies, immediately taking
it into their care; that it and the earth alike
are as ready to catch fire as phosphorus itself,
vividly responsive one to the other; and that,

after a while, thus subterraneously nourished,
fed from above also by stealing rains and dews,
and hotly kissed through its mask of earth by
that mighty shining which has traveled mil-
lions of miles through ethereal space, to assist
at this miniature marvel, it shall jet up into the
April morning, a curiously carved cone of
waxen petals pouring fragrance—a hyacinth.
A hyacinth—yes! But how much more to the
man who has watched while it thus came into
being.

I sometimes wish that Adam—the first gar-
dener, as Hamlet’s gravedigger remarked—had
left the creation without names; for names
have a curious way of robbing things of their
proper value, and particularly of their first
strangeness. Something arrests us either by
its beauty or its unfamiliarity, and we immedi-
ately ask what it is. While no one tells us, we
remain curious, but from the moment we hear
its name, its interest for us diminishes: it
takes its place in the category of familiar
things, though, of course, we know no more
about it than ever. So one says “a hyacinth”
or ‘“‘a rose” thoughtlessly, as though we knew
all about them, almost indeed as though we
could make them ourselves had we a mind to.

Yet the names of flowers have often, as in

this case of the hyacinth, an association

dozen gardeners—but that is another
matter. As a general rule, one may say:
the more gardeners, the less garden. For
the real garden is born, and very little
made.

No one has ever really loved a garden
without having had at times the sense of
a divine presence dwelling there, moving
softly behind curtains of leaves, some
busy, watchful kindness secretly at work
with blade and blossom and the mount-
ing sap, and falling suddenly silent at
our first foot-fall, like a shy bird. A
fancy, of course—and yet would there be
anything more remarkable in the fact of
certain natural processes being presided
over by especially appointed spiritual
guardians than there is wonder in the
processes themselves? Though there be
no individual accessible divinity behind
the blossoming of an apple orchard, the
process itself is divine, and just as mys-
terious as if there were.

Numen inest, said the old Roman,
with proper reverence and a profound in- |
sight in thepresence of such natural mani-
festations; and he who does not feel, as he.
that deity is present “in gardens when
the eve is cool” profanes the sanctuary.

DAE EOD sass

Gray is the city as a gray-beard Jew.

Steel, paper, shoes, a thousand sordid things,
Crowd the dull windows, fill the humming hives,
Busy the piteous-eager heart of men.

Yet on a day when light the wafting wind

Teased the grim giant with a hint of spring,

There between buildings broke the sunlight through,
And lo! an arched dark window was ablaze

With the gold splendor of the daffodils!

Who said the day of miracles was done?

I saw with my two eyes, and felt my heart
Go fluting “April!” all the wintry day.

And I shal! never pass that way again
Without remembrance of the swift surprise—
Here ix the sun the jonquils’ spendthrift gold;
At the street’s end the blue, resounding sea!

—Sara Hamilton Birchall.

value which gives a lift to the imagina-
tion. It certainly adds to its magic for
us to recall that this is the flower that the
Greeks believed to have sprung from the
grave of Hyacinthus, the beautiful youth
accidentally killed by Apollo as they
played at quoits together. Still one can
read “Alas! Alas!” in Greek upon its
petals. So long ago the flowers we love
were in the world; and such associations,
though they are but subsidiary to the
natural inspiration of gardens, are poig-
nant remembrances of lovely half-for-
gotten things, romantic lives long since
ended, beautiful faces that once bent over
these very flowers, or those poets who
have brought them the added enchant-
ment of their songs.

VEN though you utterly neglect your

garden, it will flame in a glory of
weeds; for, first and last, it is a mystic
piece of God’s earth, potential with all
those magical energies that of their very
strength bring forth beauty. Every foot
of it conceals buried treasures of untold
value—gold and silver, ivory and myrrh,
fretted imageries, carved chalices, and a
hoard of fragrant things.

~

Be IL Dyas

From

N° scheme of garden building is at once
Jk so effective and so easily maintained as
hard

ly border. Perennial plants need seldom
to be renewed; in fact, it sooner becomes neces
sary to find an outlet for the overflow than to
set in new plants This overflow, if one ha
started out with choice named varieties, has

ommercial value \ fuller satisfaction, how
ever, is discovered when one finds that there
are enough plants to give away. For isn’t
it least half the joy of possession the pleas-
ure of sharing yout abundance with an-
other? Moreover, in the herbaceous plant
ing there is scarcely a dull moment. Growth
starts with the earliest hint of warm weather
and continues almost until snow flies. Dur
ing the first few weeks we have the interest
of rapidly developing plants. From the

time the earliest flowers come, in April or
May, there is a succession of bloom until
fall.
The garde n lover looks forward to these
isons as she anticipates the
friend. Association
to hover about them, as about old books and
the old haunts that one frequents. For the
more prosaic there is the scientific interest

late

recurring ses

visit of an old comes

in comparing the growth and performance

of one year with another. By all means
kee pa note book.
The most effective location for such a

planting is, probably, along the far edge
of the lawn, where it will be viewed mainly
from the house. Such a border may be
about the foundations of the house, though
this is of all locations the least desirable as
it will seen to advantage from the
windows of A backyard is a

not be
the house.

ad ;
These

I HB

A Gorgeous Display Each Year

good situation, particularly if one can run the
border about the yard and can spare ground
for a bit of green, be it never so small, in the
center.

Chere is nothing more charming than a walk
between two the double
English gardens, a feature of endless possi-
bilities which we in America

borders,

almost

neglect

The beautiful, creamy, white - flowered
dwarf phlox Tapis Blanc is without a rival
for its place in the very front of the border

H Ack wey

Selections of Herbaceous Perennials One Can

border of

House & Garden’s

PO R D*P Rk

Have

altogether. This type of border, however, al-
lows a different planting than the more usual
single border, for in this case less thought need
be given to its effectiveness at a distance. One
might almost characterize the planting as more
intimate, for it is to be seen from near at hand,
and the interest is more likely to be busied
with single specimens than with the broad
effect of the whole. It is this broad
effect that should always be kept in mind
when planning and executing the single
border.

The first principle to remember is that
the best results are always to be obtained
by simple and broad treatment. That it is
better to paint from a simple palette, with
a minimum of color mixing, is a maxim
equally good for the painter and gardener.
In either case, we are making a picture.
The problem of the border is complicated
by the fact that it is a series of pictures we
must plan for.

Growth in a border starts, of course,
simultaneously with that of the grass and
the leaves on the trees. This early growth
shows a variety of light, delicate greens and
reddish browns that not only are beautiful
in themselves, but have great diversity in
habit of growth and texture and shape of
leaf.

The earliest flowering plant is the lupin.
Now the lupin (Polyphyllus, the perennial
variety) comes in white, pink and blue.
The white is a flower of exquisite purity
and grace. The blue, however, runs to red-
dish tones and the usual pink lupin rather
suggests lavender. There is a recently in-
troduced lupin of a purer pink that, in

Inspector Elpel, a
late flowering
phlox, blooms well
into September,
when the fall as-
ters begin. This
view and the
others are of the
garden of John L.

Rea, at Platts-
i burgh, N. Y., who
also contributes

the text

Book of Gardens

N

XN
|.
-
Nos
i
N
N

Wedded

BSc

combination with the white, forms a beauti-
ful group. The lupin is a fair sized plant,
with perhaps a dozen stalks 2’ to 3’ tall.

By the time the lupins begin to fade the
iris will come into flower. Only the so-called
self-colored sorts seem sufficiently assertive to
be suitable for a planting of this nature.

Mrs. H. Darwin is a most satisfactory white,
of rather dwarf habit. Madame Chereau is
the tall and stately variety with somewhat
elongated white flowers with blue laced edges.
Pallida Dalmatica is a large, luxuriantly grow-
ing kind, whose extra sized flowers at a little
distance give the effect of a clear, delicate
blue. Her Majesty, with flowers almost as
large but borne on shorter stems, is soft pink
with crimson markings. —

We have to be especially careful in placing
our irises unless we are willing to cut them
off before their time, because the oriental pop-
pies never wait for the iris season to be quite
over. These with their brilliant black and
scarlet coloring and great size are likely to
prove rather upsetting to one’s preconceived
ideas of balance and harmony, unless they are
carefully curbed. A good showing can be had
from Rose Queen, Perry’s White, Nancy, Go-
liath, Royal Scarlet, Beauty of Livermore.

By the first of June—in many localities,
somewhat earlier—the peony plants will have
altogether lost the mahogany color of their
earliest stage and will have developed into pic-
turesque mounds of deep, glossy green. Twelve
standard sorts of moderate price, which give
great variety in type and color of bloom and
will furnish the longest possible season—from
three to four weeks—are Umbellata Rosea,
Rubens, Festiva Maxima, Mons. Jules Elie,
Courrone d’Or, Faust, Delicatissima, Marie
Jacquin, Felix Crousse, Mons. Hyppolyte
Dellille, Henri Murger, Marie Lemoine.

By the third week of June, when the later
peonies are in flower, the delphiniums will
be. reaching a considerable height, and the
long, graceful spires of buds will begin to

While the late peonies show the last of
their glory, the delphiniums raise their
heads ready to bloom

show color. These with the Madonna lilies
and the early white phloxes always follow
hard on the peonies. The delphinium, or
perennial larkspur, ranges in color from white
through countless enchanting combinations of
blue and lavender to deep blue and purple.
The scarlet and so-called yellow sorts need
not be considered here. For a variety of de-
pendable blues, plant—Bleu Tendre, Rev. E.
Lascelles, Hermosa, The Alake, Porcelaine
Sceptre, Dusky Monarch, Mr. K. T. Caron,
Progression, Perfection, King of Delphiniums,
Lorenzo de Medici, Mrs. Brunton, Andrew
Carnegie, Francis F. Fox, Corry, Moerheimi.

As the larkspur and lily time passes, the
gorgeous phlox era comes—the former per-
haps the most ethereal, the latter certainly the
most brilliant phase of the garden year. Visu-
alize these in bloom—Miss Lingard, Tapis
Blanc, Frau Anton Buchner, Comte von Hoch-
berg, Europa, Fernand Cortez, Inspector El-
pel, G. A. Strohlein.

The beautiful, big, creamy white flowered
dwarf, Tapis Blanc, is without a rival for
the very front of the border. It grows from
1’ to 114’ tall and bears large heads of large
flowers. It blooms earlier than the other
phloxes in this later group, usually beginning
to flower just as the early white, Miss Lingard,
is by its best. Tapis Blanc forms a bridge
between the two seasons. Frau Anton Buch-
ner, universally acknowledged the very best
white phlox, bears equally large flowers in
larger but somewhat looser heads, and grows
very tall, often over 3’. This white is used
for its own sake and to separate the more
brilliant sorts. These brilliant colors are
most effective used in considerable quantities,
each by itself. Of the colored varieties, one
might start with six plants each of the fol-
lowing:

Cortez—a rich crimson, early; G. A. Stroh-

lein—a wonderful salmon with a red eye;
Europa—white with a clear red eye; Comte
Von Hochberg—a deep crimson, one of the
darkest colored sorts; Inspector Elpel—a rosy
pink with a reddish eye, very late.

The phloxes, with their wealth of color and
bloom, carry us well into September, when the
various fall asters begin to flower.

The number of these Michaelmas daisies
is a revelation to most people, who still sup-
pose the lavenders of our own New England
asters the only colors to be found among them.
There are, however, not only these lavenders
and many more, but pinks in almost pure
tones, white, light and deep blue, crimson,
and purple. Many of the newer varieties
grow to be larger plants and bear larger flowers
than those most of us know. For a good
autumn showing, try St. Egwin, Beauté par-
faite, Glory of Colwall, Ryecroft Purple, Rye-
croft Pink, Fairfield, Mrs. S. T. Wright, Wm.
Marshall, Bertha Cubitt, Mrs. Rayner, Hilda
Morris, Feltham Blue.

In building a new border, start out with
these rules firmly in mind:

1. Select a location, if possible, in full view
from the summer living room.

2. Carefully measure the space to be planted,
and make, to a convenient scale, a detailed
plan showing the location of every plant to
be set. This not only makes the actual plant-
ing much easier, but makes it possible to get
along without the unsightly and perishable
labels, for if in doubt as to a name one merely
has to consult the plan.

3. In arranging the colors try to get beauti-
ful combinations, remembering always that
simplicity is a chief aid to that end. A half-
dozen plants each of three or four colors are
far better than the same number of plants,
each in a different color.

4. Whenever practicable, obtain the best
quality of plants, in named varieties.

5. Give a reasonable amount of labor and
fertilizer in preparing the ground.

{5 the first wmportant
flowers of the early spring
we love the crocuses,
even when only a few
spring up in the grass or
along the _ border But
how much more wonder-
ful are they when there
are hundreds upon hun

dreds of them! Some

times they come up sin

gly or in thinly scattered
groups, perhaps only six,
perhaps a dozen cups to

gether with the sturdy,

dark trunks of leafless
trees rising about them

House & Garden’s

AMONG THE
FIRS®
TO BLOOM

The Crocus, An Early
Venturer Into the

Garden
)

MARIAN C, COFFIN
Landscape Architect

In some parts of this
crocus border the bulbs
are planted thick, line
upon line, with the cups
so mear together’ that
they are no longer seen
as individual flowers, but
as long-drawn splashes
of color. At these spots
the tree trunks act as
foils and the little patches
of brown earth that do
manage to show between
the wide-spread chalice
blooms serve to deepen
the coloring of the cro-
cuses themselves

Book of Gardens

OU R OF

TH £

ROE Ss) i

11

eA Vite Be S

From the Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, Hybrid Teas and Polyantha Types
The Rose Lover Makes a Selection for All-Season Bloom

HERE are three principal groups with

which the rose grower should familiarize
himself—the Hybrid Perpetuals, made up of
roses of mixed parentage but practically all
of the hardy or perpetual type; the Tea rose,
tea scented, which is not hardy except in the
South or in California; and the Hybrid Teas,
standing between these two rose extremes, being
the offspring of the hardy Hybrid Perpetuals
and the Teas, and having been developed
toward hardiness as far as possible. Of course
there are many other kinds and the fact that
there are over four thousand species of the
genus in Europe and Western Asia alone, will
only confuse the amateur. Choice, then, should
be made for season of bloom and varying qual-
ity and texture of flower.

The first roses to bloom are those of the Hy-
brid Perpetual class—the June roses—which
begin usually about the 5th of June and con-
tinue on for a month. The Teas and Hybrid
Teas begin later—about the 15th—and carry
their first flower production until the last week

Lilla ddddaldddsiist ll lhlbdlailddba//S

ZZ

WL LLINLLILLIL LA LT lie eee ets

AWWA QW LE

in July. Then they rest a bit, save for a few
fugitive blooms, until about the end of August,
when they start in once more and blossom un-
til frost. The interval between the end of July
and the end of August is filled in with two
other classes, the Bengal and the Polyantha.
The latter are clustered masses of small flowers
usually and the bushes are not large.

The number of plants of each class which a
rose garden should have must, of course, be
determined by the size of the garden, but a fair
proportion is two Hybrid Teas, one Bengal, one
Polyantha and one Tea to each Hybrid Per-
petual, or five Hybrid Teas to one Hybrid Per-
petual.

Of the Hybrid Perpetuals, Baron de Bon-
stetton, General Jacqueminot and Prince Ca-
mille de Rohan are among the deep and velvety
reds. Paul Neyron, in addition to being the
largest rose in the world, is free flowering, of
a fine, deep rose color. Darker than this is
Marshall P. Wilder. Two good whites are
Frau Karl Druschki

and Margaret Dickson. Yvonne

Another white is Marchioness of Londonderry.
Mrs. John Laing is an abundant soft pink.

Among the Hybrid Teas, an excellent red
rose is General McArthur. Betty is good for
late summer, a rare shade of coppery gold over-
laid with yellow. Another wonderful yellow
rose is the Duchess of Wellington. Redder than
flame is Gruss an Teplitz. For pale shell pink
nothing has yet excelled La France.

In the Tea Rose class, Harry Kirk should
lead for the yellows, seconded by Marie Van
Houtte, a paler shade edged with pink. For
later summer and fall bloom William R. Smith
is good, although tender and requiring care.

Of the Bengal roses, Hermosa is a popular
choice and can be massed in beds. Countess de
Cayla is another of this class, a coppery tone
shaded with orange. The blushing little Clo-
tilde Soupert is a tractable, densely petalled
hybrid Polyantha, generally classed as white.
Then there are Louise Walter, soft rose pink;
Orleans, with flowers red as geraniums, and
Rabier, the baby white rambler.

Roses should be given a place by themselves, and, where space permits, a special bed to each family. On the estate of Charles Harding

at Dedham, Mass., the queen of flowers has a regal and abundant spot

a formal garden walled in by high architectural lattice with seats

and gates at the terminals of the paths. Guy Lowell, architect

in other sections

age in this region.

two months.

Blooms

June 1 1—Miss Helyett—(wich.) Winter kills. Fauque, 1908. Large dou-
ble, blush with carmine shading. Strong, good foliage.
Long season. Good stems.

May Queen—(wich.) Hardy. Conard & Jones, 1899. Deli-
cate pink. Foliage good, weak grower. Fascinating color,
with crimped petals.

Neige d’Avril—(mult.) Hardy. Small pure white flowers,
profuse, semi-double. Prominent yellow stamens. Foli-
age fair.

June 7-14 Ghislaine de Feligonde—(mult.) Hardy. Turbot, 1916. Prac-
tically thornless. Bud orange. Flower cream when open,
foliage fair. Medium growth, very long season.

Purple East—(mult.) Hardy. Paul, 1901. Rosy pink with
over color of mauve. Wonderful color in early morning
Semi-double, large, free. Foliage only fair.

2—Francois Guillot (wich.) Winter kills. Barbier, 1907. Double
white. Free, vigorous. Foliage very good. Shaded yel-
low in bud. Long blooming season.

June 14-24 Paul’s Scarlet Climber—(wich.) Hardy. Paul, 1916. Large,

vivid scarlet shaded crimson. Fine large foliage. Vigor-
ous, unusually fine color that holds well.
Silver Moon—(mult.) Winter kills. Henderson, 1910. Very

large semi-double, almost 5”. Pure white, yellow stamens.
Buds tinged yellow, foliage unusually good. Strong, but
some years fails to bloom.

1—Christine Wright—(H. P.) Hardy. Hoopes & Thomas, 1913.
Rose pink tinged yellow. Good form, fragrant. Good
texture. Color lasts, long period of bloom.

Zephirin Drouhin—(Hybrid Bourbon.) Hardy. Bizot, 1868.

Large single flower, wonderful silvery rose color. Petals
wavy. Long season, strong bushy growth.
2—Baroness von Ittersum—(Multiflora.) Hardy. Leenders,
1910. Bright red foliage. Fairly free bloomer. Some
flowers are lighter. Quite large.
August Roussel—(Macrophylla.) Hardy. Barbier, 1913.

Large flowers, semi-double. Rosy salmon. Good foliage.
Shaped like H.T.; like a clear pink form of Dr. Van Fleet.
Climbing Lady Ashtown—(H.T.) Hardy. Bradley, 1909.
Free for H.T. Vigorous. Best climbing H.T. Has long
spring season and a few autumn flowers.
Alberic Barbier—(wich.) Winter kills. Barbier, 1900. Buds

yellow, flowers cream, foliage good. Young shoots
bronze. Good color until it fades.
1—Paul Noel—(wich.) Hardy. Hanne, 1913. Large double,

2”-3". Bud carmine; open, deep salmon, splashed orange.
Wonderful color and foliage. Long season.
2—Elisa Robichon—(wich.) Hardy. Barbier, 1902. Delicate
rose tinged yellow. Free, vigorous. Foliage very good.
Chatillon Rambler—(wich.) Hardy. Nonin, 1913. Pale
rose, free, strong, good foliage. Similar in form and habit
to Dorothy Perkins but a shade lighter.

Gerbe Rose—(wich.) Hardy. Large double. Clear pink,
strong, good foliage.
1—Gardenia—(wich.) Hardy. Manda, 1899. Bud yellow,

flower cream. Good foliage, vigorous, free.

2—Renee Danielle—(wich.) Hardy. Guillot, 1913. Deep yel-
low in bud, pale yellow open. Very large and double.
Small, isolated clusters, very fine foliage.
Mme. August Nonin—(wich.) Hardy. Nonin, 1912. Double,
mauve-rose. Vigorous, good foliage, lasts well.
2—Electra—(multiflora.) Winter kills. Veitch, 1900. Deep sal-
mon pink heavily shaded. Foliage good. Color fades
but veins become more pronounced.

2—Ida Klemm—(mult.) Half winter kills.
double, cream. Fragrant.
blooming season.

2—Tausendschon—(mult.) Hardy. Schmidt, 1907. Semi-double,
bright pink to pure white. Color deepens in dull weather
and with age. Foliage fair.

Walter, 1907. Large
Good form, fine foliage, long

PIE T ¥.“G:OcOgP
CLIMBING ROSES

HE notes which follow are compiled from ex-

hauStive tests covering a period of four years. |
In considering the results it is well to remember that
theywwere obtained in the latitude of New York
City and would not necessarily apply in all details
and under different conditions.
Those roses which are marked ‘winter kills” were
killed back to root by the unusually severe winter of
1917-18, a season considerably colder than the aver-
The varieties noted as being
hardy survived that winter and consequently may
be considered highly cold-resistant.
blooming varies approximately six days for every
fifty miles’ difference in latitude.
by the figure 1 are considered especially good; those
marked 2 are the next choices.
dozen or so will result in successive blooms for nearly

Blooms
June 24-30

July 1-7

July 7-14

Varieties prefixed

A wise selection of a

House & Garden’s

The time of

t
ar
D
ia
P
r
r
n
mn

Blush Rambler—(mult.) Hardy. B. R. Cant, 1903. Clear
rose, free, good growth. Good, fast color, center turns
paler when old.

2—Klondyke—(wich.) Winter kills. G. Paul, 1911.
bud, flowers paler. Vigorous, free, foliage good.

1—Source d’Or—(wich). Hardy. Turbot, 1912. Buds bright
yellow; open, pale yellow, large. Very faintly tinged

Yellow

blush. Vigorous, foliage very good.
Sanders’ White—(wich.) Hardy. Sanders, 1912. Double,
pure white, very free. Long season, glossy foliage,

vigorous.

2—Dr. F. W. Van Fleet—(wich.) Half winter kills. Henderson,
1908. Flesh pink. Good form, foliage very good. Vig-
orous, fragrant.

1—American Pillar—(mult.) Half winter kills. Conard & Jones,
1909. Rose pink, light centers, good foliage and growth,
Flowers freely and regularly.

1—Marie Lovett—(wich.) Half winter kills. Large, double, pure
white; fine shape, vigorous. Foliage very good. Fragrant,
large, waxy petals prettily curled. Beautiful bud of H.T.

shape.
Debutante—(wich.) Hardy. Walsh, 1901. Soft light pink.
Variable. Vigorous, foliage good. Very large clusters.

Adelaide Moulle—(wich.) Hardy. Barbier, 1902. Coppery
salmon, double. Foliage good, strong. Small but pretty
flowers in clusters. Fades in bright weather.

2—Evergreen Gem—(wich.) Hardy. Manda, 1899. Cream,
free, fragrant. Vigorous, foliage very good. Faint blush
center when open.

1—Hiawatha—(wich.) Hardy.
scarlet, vigorous, free.

Sicile—(mult.) Hardy.

Coronation—(wich.) Hardy. Turner, 1912. Vivid crimson-
scarlet, lighter stripes. Very free. Large strusses. Strong,
foliage good.

Francois Juranville—(wich.)
Salmon, large, double. Foliage good.

Jean Girin—(wich.) Hardy. Girin, 1910. Salmon, double,
free, vigorous, foliage good.

Sodenia—(wich.) Hardy. Weigand, 1911. Very bright scar-
let, with lighter edges. Free, strong, good foliage.

Ernst Grandpierre—(wich.) Hardy. Weigand, 1900. Double
white, small. Free, vigorous, good foliage. Cleaner white
than White Dorothy.

1—Dorothy Dennison—(wich.) Hardy. Dickson, 1907. Creamy
pink. Vigorous, good foliage. Very double. Fast color,
deeper in dull weather. Habit like D. Perkins. Synon,
Lady Godiva.

2—Excelsa—(wich.) Hardy. Walsh, 1909. Crimson. Vigorous,
free, good foliage. Brighter than crimson rambler and
has decidedly better foliage.

2—Evangeline—(wich.) Hardy. Walsh, 1907. Single, blush,
pretty shape. Free, vigorous, flowers large, color variable.

Walsh, 1904.
Foliage good.

Single. Rich

Winter kills. Barbier, 1906.

1—Dorothy Perkins—(wich.) Hardy. Perkins, 1901. Rose
pink. Double, vigorous, free. Foliage good.
White Dorothy—(wich.) Hardy. Paul Cant, 1908. The

white counterpart of Dorothy Perkins.
1—Snowdrift—(wich.) Hardy. 1910. Pure white double flow-

ers, large clusters. Very free, vigorous growth. Good
foliage.
1—Gruss an Freundorf—(wich.) Hardy. Praskac, 1913. Deep

crimson, light center. Semi-double, vigorous, exception-
ally fine color.
Leontine Gervais—(wich.) Winter kills. Barbier, 1903.
Nasturtium red, free, good growth, foliage and color.
2—Mrs. M. H. Walsh—(wich.) Hardy. Walsh, 1912. Pure
white, small, free, vigorous. Foliage good, flowers very
evenly distributed. Grows very tall.

Book

A

of Gardens

DEO Z EE N

GeEOr Or")

13

ASNT EN 2G ae LS

Certain Flowers Whose Colors and Characteristics Qualify Them as

HERE are, of course, no twelve—or fif-

teen, or twenty—‘‘best” annuals. Local
conditions, individual preferences, a thousand
and one varying circumstances, must be taken
into consideration. If we are going to set any
definite limit to our list, let us call our selec-
tion merely ‘‘good’’ in a general sort of way,
and let it go at that.

The flowers which follow are chosen with
the assumption that they are to be grown under
average normal conditions. Briefly, these con-
sist of moderately rich, well-drained soil;
plenty of sunlight and fresh air circulation;
and freedom from the encroaching roots of
trees and shrubs. Granted these, here is a basic
list on which you can start an annual garden
of small size.

Cosmos. Its colors are red, pink and white
—ereat saucer-shaped blossoms borne 4’ to 6’
high above a mass of feathery foliage. For
mass effects far into the autumn, after most of
the other flowers have succumbed to the chill
nights, it is unexcelled. An excellent flower
for both garden effects and cutting.

Asters. Not the busy, perennial kinds with
the purple and gold flowers, but the Giant
Comet, King, Royal and Imperial sorts. They
reach a height of 1’ to 3’, and furnish abundant
bloom in a wide variety of colors during late
summer and autumn. These asters are good
not only for a variety of garden effects, but

MWA WWQw*—w«. EW DF

a Basis for Starting an Annual Garden

also for cutting and display in the house.

Alyssum. Free-flowering and quick-growing,
a splendid bedding and edging plant which be-
gins to bloom early in the spring and continues
throughout the season. The flowers are white,
profuse, and low growing; together with the
foliage, they form a thick mat a few inches
thick.

Snapdragons. Good for border planting and
as cut flowers. Long blooming season and ex-
quisite flowers in practically every color except
blue. They grow from 1’ to 3’ high and if given
winter protection will bloom a second season.
Some of the giant types are especially good
for planting at the back of the bed.

Candytuft. One can hardly imagine this
charming hardy flower. For edgings and bed-
ding effects it is especially good, and it is well
adapted to cutting. The blossoms are white,
pink or red, borne 1’ to 2’ high in large heads
or spikes.

Forget-Me-Not. Of all garden flowers, this
comes as close as any to being a tradition.
There is no need of describing it here—it’s too
well known.

Annual Larkspur. Not to be confused with
the perennial sort. It comes in all colors except
yellow, and is good for garden masses as well
as cutting. Grows 2’ to 3’ high and closely re-
sembles the hardy larkspur in appearance. It
is a splendid flower in all respects.

Petumas. Brilliancy and wealth of blossoms,
as well as marked success even under unfa-
vorable conditions, characterize petunias. They
come in all colors except yellow, grow from 1’
to 114’ high, and are good for color masses and
bedding effects.

Salpiglossis. Also called Velvet Flower and
Painted Tongue. All colors, 1’ to 2’ high, de-
sirable especially for garden effects and cutting
for the house.

Phlox. An old favorite, better today than
ever. All colors except blue, can be used as a
cut flower as well as for color masses in the
garden. Grows about 1’ high. Not to be
confused with the hardy perennial varieties.

Eschscholtzia or California Poppy. ‘These
flowers, like forget-me-nots, scarcely need de-
scription. They are so showy and free-flower-
ing that they are particularly adapted to color
masses in the house as well as outdoors. 1’ to
2’ high, in all colors except blue.

Sweet Peas. The sweet pea of today is a far
superior flower to that of a dozen or more years
ago. All the old colors are in it, and many new
ones. The Spencer type is the best; many of its
varieties have beautifully frilled and fluted
edges on their petals. To yield the maximum
returns, sweet peas should be grown in a very
richly manured trench prepared to a depth of
2’, as their roots demand a great deal of
nourishment.

Annuals may be planted in beds by themselves, a bed or portion of a bed to one variety, or they
may be used in the perennial border to give color and flower interest when the herbaceous plants

are not so rich in bloom

14

House & Garden’s

PEONIES: FOR BEGINNER AND COLI wale

Selections That Will Make An Ample Foundation For
A Brilliant Display Each Spring

a garden without peonies 1s a

contradiction in terms; it simply

isn’t, can’t be a garden. For the
miracle of the peonies is a year ly re-
freshment of soul and a delight to
the eye that knows no equal.

The last iris are cut. The late

pink and yellow cottage tulips ar
gone. The border becomes a mass of
billowy green—the glistening, metal
lic green of the peony leaves, the gay
green of iris blades, the soft fuzzy
greens of fox-gloves and larkspurs,
the dainty green of the growing
phloxes, the stiff, cold, forbidding lily
stalks. Then the miracle slowly but
surely takes place—the peonies begin
to bloom!

Ic can’t be described. One’s vo-
cabulary simply won’t set down that
picture. All one can say to the gar-
dener who has no peonies, ““Go with-
out that pair of new shoes, argue your
wife out of that new hat, but plant
peonies this fall!” Enough for a start
—say twelve—will cost you less than
a pair of shoes at current prices, and
for the price of a lady’s hat you can amaze
the town.

Peonies are among the easiest plants in the
garden to care for and no conjurer’s art is
required to make them grow. Begin with
twelve this fall and order new types every year.
Meanwhile, lest this text becomes an incoherent
rhapsody, let us make some peony lists. These
may not be perfect selections, but they are
sufficient for a beginning. Or the gardener
may easily procure the catalog of a specialist
and choose his own varieties from those de-
scribed therein.

An inexpensive list
would consist of the
following:

Boule de Neige—
milk-white guards,
center flecked with
crimson, early mid-
season; Couronne
d’Or—pure white, yel-
low stamens, tipped
carmine, late; Duc de
Wellington—w hite
guards, sulphur cen-
ter, fragrant, late;
Duchess d’Orleans
deep pink, salmon
center, fragrant, mid-
season; La Coquette
—light pink, rose
white collar, fragrant,
mid-season; Louis
Van Houtte -deep
Carmine rose, tra-
grant, late; Mme. Calot
—pale hydrangea
pink, fragrant, early;
Delicatissima pale
lilac rose, mid-season:
Emile Lemoine-—r e d
with silver tip, fra-
grant, late; Dr. Bre-
touneau—pale lilac
rose, center tipped
cream-white, fra-

At the left
is Festiva
maxima and
at the right
M. Jules
Elie

with

The peony bed in blossom is a place of str.king beauty.
pure white with a ring of yellow stamens around a central tuft of petals tipped

carmine

grant, early mid-season; Comte de
Paris—guards and collar violet rose,
white-crimson crown, fragrant, mid-
season; Princess Beatrice—guards and
crown light violet rose, collar white,
fragrant, mid-season.

Should the gardener desire a col-
lection of the rarer varieties he might
select the following. It represents a
good selection of French and English
types, with one American—Excelsior :

James Kelway—rose-white chang-
ing to milk-white, early mid-season;
Excelsior—violet-purple, fragrant,
early; Mireille—milk-white, center
petals edged dark crimson, fragrant,
very late; Livingstone—pale lilac-rose
with silver tips, central petals flecked
carmine; Simoune Chevalier—pale
lilac-rose, collar cream-white, early;
La Tendresse—milk-white guards,

Agnes Mary center flecked with crimson, early;
ee Ze Marguerite Gerard—very pale hy-
many as drangea-pink, fading to white, late;
150 blooms Princess Maud—lilac-white guards,
SNE center amber-white, late; Albert

Here is Couronne a’Or,

Crousse—rose-white, flecked crimson,
fragrant, late; Souvenir de l’Exposition, d’Bor-
deaux—bluish violet-red, mid-season; Mme.
Emile Lemoine—milk-white, mid-season; Fes-
tiva Maxima—white with center marked
crimson.

The Japanese and single types are often
preferred by peony lovers because they have
a very distinct beauty of their own. In de-
veloping the peony layout of a garden it is
always advisable to try a few singles at least.
They play the same role in relation to the ordi-
nary peony types that single roses do to the
Hybrid Teas and Hy-
brid Perpetual roses;
they are the Polyan-
thas of the peony
family.

The following se-
lection comes from
English and Japanese
sources:

Jupiter—rosy ma-
genta, medium tall,
early; Geraldine—
deep carmine-violet,
mid-season; Lemon
(ueen—pure white
with cushion of pale
yellow petals; George
Alexander—deep ma-
roon; The Moor—
purple-garnet, early:
Gy psy—dark rose.
mid-season ; Cathedral
—blush, center petals
creamy; Albiflora, The
Bride—pure white, a
tall and free grower;
Apple Blossom—
blush-yellow in center
petals; Crystal Queen
—pure white; Austin
Chamberlain — deep
amaranth-red, early;
Dragon’s Head—
petals pale rose striped
dark crimson.

ay

-

Book of Gardens 15
weet PLANTED BULBS te BLOOM NEXT YEAR

Long Lived and Dependable, the Hardy Bulbs Need Little or No Care, But Continue Sending
Up Their Showy Blossoms Season After Season

N proportion to the effort expended,

no other flowers are so effective as
bulbs. They need only to be tucked in
the ground in the autumn and given a
slight protection of litter to repay one
the following spring by a prodigality of
blossoms. As the bulbs contain their
own plant food they will blossom, for
the first season at least, on very poor
soil. They may be had in every color,
and for practically every season, and
are equally desirable for both outdcor |
and indoor decoration. One who ce-
sires a gorgeous display of color mav |

where the grass is not too thick and is
not cut too soon after the bulbs have
bloomed. The cultivated soil around

y the bases of shrubs, or the edges of
f z Z

woodland in partial shade, are good
| places for naturalizing.
| The majority of bulbs are, so io
speak, children of the spring, but the
lilies nod and beck the whole summer
through. Some of them are expensive
| and die after a year or two, but the fol-
lowing are worthy of general use:
Lilium elegans, deep orange red, sun
or half shade, 2’, June and July.

: . PLANTS | ae ; :
plant thousands of the inexpensive spe- L Forssthia intermedia Goldenmanellemrccmere loemman Tecra? Lilium candidum, madonna lily, fra-
= ; ] hee | time of bulbs. 10 plants, 3’ apart, 2’-3’ high. | thi Bais
cies, or the collector may have his cul ! 2, BURA ANGIE G HG TAT coe coon nvmns) 22 grant, pure white, sun, 3 5’, July.
tured taste gratified at greater cost. | ,_ Plants, 2’ apart, 2 years. reese Lilium Hansoni, yellow, sun or
= - . “a: J. axus canadensis, merican yew, eve yit re er- 2
When placed in direct competition ULES ra iellya SEG 7 WES GY enEMS Te” Goaceel shade, 3’-4’, June and July.
with the showy tulips and daffodils, 4. Galantus nivalis, snowdrops, white, green spot, 47-6”, Lilium tigrinum, tiger lly, Oran ee
some of the more unusual bulbs are _ March-April. Sun or %4 shade. purple-spotted, sun or half shade, mid-
fins al in th th " ij | 5. Crocus, mammoth golden yellow, 6”-8”, mid-March-la‘e l S ib >) 5
eclipsed. or ese ere May be re- | aie sun or % fovea : ee Ju y to September, 2-5.
g iy | 6. cilla sibirica, Siberian squill, deep blue, 2”-6”, mid-March- aay 5
served a sunny corner, possibly by the _ early May, sun or shade. _ Lilium speciosum, spotted Japanese
entrance where they will attract greater | 7. Franti ESD winter aconite, yellow, 3”-8”, March- lily, white, reflexed petals spotted crim-
5 ett : April, % shade. Ss 9
notice, and create an intimacy which | 8. Muscars botyvides, var iiceocialy Bye: grape hyacinth, son-pink, fragrant, 2’-4’, sun or shade,
. Qa | deep blue, 6”-8”, April-May, sun or % shade. f a
would be denied them in the plan of a | 9. Fritillaria meleagris, pure white, checkered fritillary, | August September.
larger garden. They will also thrive _ 10”-12”, late April-late May, sun or shade. Unlike most lilies, the madonna dces
Z = 3 10. Leucojum vernum, snowflake, bell-shaped white flowers, 5 F 5
better if the tops are allowed to die un- green tips, 6712", April-May, % shade. i best in full sun. It is often used in
. 3 2 és 11. Narcissus bulbocodium, hoop petticoat, delicate yellow, | = = a E
en pee of rae Temoved to ¥'8", late Aprillate May, ¥% shade best, not very hardy. | Sarees with ees rn oe
ake way for annuals, as is necessary 12. Allium, onionwort: ; | of success is to cover the with but
mn © ie oEvannuas; Eee 2 a. Aureum, yellow, 1’, mid-April-June. | aN 5 s u
In conspicuous places. b. Azurewm, azure blue, 1’-2’, June-July. Sun or shade. | a scant 2” of soil. The intense color of
Another distinct use for bulbs is in os etree seloides) striped) sail / blush) white, 127," || elegans looks best with) the! white) of
formal bedding. The day has gone by | 14. BamassanescHlenta, camass, purplish blue, 1’-2’, May, sun syringas. The golden yellow of Han-
. c 5! & | Tet /2ees, 5 ve “Vs .
when our ideal of beauty was a fanci- Pe aS, Monbyetia EO NTE fmonbretia, orange-scarlet, glad | Son 18 an addition to any picture. The
e : : | iolus-like flowers, 2’, July-August. | o Oe k o ;
fully shaped bed carved in the middle Ton GolehicuraNaururanalemmaioredlarender tiger lily looks particularly well with
of the lawn and filled with a red and Colchicum autumnale album, white. the porcelain blue of platycodons or

| Autumn crecus, 6”, September-October, 1% shade.

yellow mixture. However, a well-de- early monkshood. The speciosum lilies

signed parterre has its appropriate 8) COS are attractive in the garden with gypso-
place, preferably the terrace next the HRI IS | phila or pink phlox, but are particu-
house, or perhaps the entire space at NES | larly suited to rhododendron soil.
the rear of a small city lot. The actual planting of bulbs is not a
A very different kind of bulb plant- matter to be gone into hit-or-miss. Few
ing is that of naturalizing in colonies IC Hi if any of them can stand wet soil before-
or drifts. Since their beauty consists Ce oe UN their roots develop, so if the location is
in the massing of large quantities to- Was taet Pee | and one with heavy soil it is advisable to
gether, usually any mixture of kinds is | Ps anes VAR ile bed each bulb in sand, making the
: : Ti) | (int! : : -
to be avoided. In this case the bulbs | | Heh Wee Mh Lit ¢ ) 2 planting hole somewhat deeper than is
: . ‘ i {Bit tgi alr. is .
are allowed to multiply undisturbed hisieh WS : ripe! dq 7 actually needed for the bulb itself and
H ' AN ie | 5 : .
year after year. They succeed best | Ay Tn) Sep Me using the sand to fill up this difference.
rs iY Vo j-o.l S frei = F
: \A ite Wa { = heey nye
= Tp 2 N a ease ae MVS
= ie Ge 0 N x Hea atl E

PLANTS b Wah N Cat | yon C. White:

1. Ysuga canadensis, American hemlock. z { HS y Ayes \ 4 . Se = 2. La Candeur, pure white, tinged pale
Hedge, 85 plants, 2’ apart, 114’ high. a) Sey | he Vif rose when opening. " - |
Specimens outside garden, 5 plants 4’-432’. [=| py IN 3. Painted Lady, cream white, tinged

2. Spiraea Van Houttei, 2 plants, 3’-3%’ high, = [ ~ heliotrope when opening.

Van Houtte’s spiraea, white. ES x = D. Lavender: j .

3. Deutzia Lemoinei, 4 plants, 2’-3’ high, I i mo 2. Dream, pale heliotrope with darker |
Lemoine’s deutzia, white for contrast. ENV aS stripe. Hl F ;

Ee / Rout JS 1. Erguste, violet, flushed silvery white.

BULBS : Si re 7 | = 2. Reverend Ewbank, lavender violet |

4. Early tulips: = eo 7 Ie silvery gray flush, white base.

A. cow: 6 Patnece wedged q ney = E. Dark tones:
= rimrose Queen, primr e C NS

ae 1. The Sultan, maroon-black, blue base.
PONWNILNY))) 3. King Harold, ox-blood red, purple-
Ge black base.
? 2. Zulu, velvety purple-black.
S 6. Rembrandt tulips:
3. Mixed varieties, striped and feathered in
shades of violet, rose, maroon, and white.
7. Bybloem tulips:
3. & 4. Striped and feathered rose and
violet on white ground.

canary.
2. Chrysolora, clear golden yellow.
B. Pink, in harmonizing tones:
3. Pink Beauty, vivid cherry rose, cen-
ter of petal striped white, yellow base.
4. Rose imaieante: brilliant deep rose
pink.
2. Queen of the Netherlands, soft pale
rose flushed white, yellow base.

©

1. Queen of Pinks, deep pink, white 8. Bizarre tulips:
flush on outer petals. 3 & 4. Striped and feathered dark brown
4. Rose Gris-de-lin, carmine rose shaded A TULIP GARDEN and red on yellow ground.
fawn, margin creamy white. : Ge en pa 9. Breeder tulips, dark rich colors, dull toned
1. Prosperine, rosy carmine, white base B. Pink, in harmonizing tones: or bronze-shaded, some sweet-scented:
marked slate blue, striking. 4. Clara Butt, pink, flushed salmon rose. 4. Cardinal Manning, dark fosy violet,
C. White: 4. Edmeée, vivid cherry rose, edged with flushed rose-brown.
2. White Hawk, pure white, large globu- soft old rose. F 3. Chestnut, real chestnut brown.
lar flower. 2. Madame Krelage, bright lilac-rose, 10. Parrot tulips:
4. White Swan, pure white, ova! flower. edged paler rose. — 3. Mixed varieties. laciniated edges, feath-
5. May-flowering (Cottage and Darwin) ‘ulips: 1. Mattia, clear carmine rose, blue base. ered and striped yellow, crimson, brown.
A. Yellow: 3. Professor Rauwenhof, bright cherry 11. Double tulips:
2. Bouton d’Or, deep chrome yellow, red, scarlet glow inside, blue base. 3. Murille, light pink.
black anthers, cup-shaped flower. 2. Suzon, soft buff rose, blush margin. 2. Tea Rose, saffron yellow.
1. Moonlight, luminous canary yellow, 3. Picotee, white margined deep rose. *Numbers before each name refer to the rela-
long oval flower. 2. Inglescombe Pink, rosy, salmon flush. tive time of bloom. All appear in April and May.

16

A good example of tulip border plant:ng.
The plants are not too closely set, nor are
they aggressively prominent in the general
scheme of the surroundings

”"

In very heavy soil the sand layer may be 3
deep, and it should extend up around the
sides of the bulbs as well as beneath them.
The roots will reach out through this pro-
tecting layer and reach the nourishing soil
without as soon as the time for active growth
arrives.

Although it is true that bulbs will grow
in almost any soil, it is also a fact that they

(Right) An excellent example of bulbs used

in a perennial border for early effect.

Notice how their blossoms add character to
the arrangement of the cther plants

House & Garden’s

In certain settings, bulbs are invaluable as

contrasts to the rest of the planting. Here

Ouida and Rev. Ewbank tulips have been
used in connection with evergreens

will do better if the earth around them is
properly enriched. One of the best fertil-
izers is well rotted manure, thoroughly dug
into and incorporated with the soil. Bone
meal also is excellent. Put a handful of it
on the surface above each bulb, and let the
rains carry it down gradually. The use of
both bone meal and manure is seldom
necessary, or even advisable.

Another case of justifiable formal bedding,
bearing about the same relation to front-
lawn bulb stars that Georgian architecture
does to houses of the jigsaw period

Book

Mek; 1 Ss

of Gardens

Rie Or

7 Ge laa ©,

17

Ba lea Cra. <S

From a Bewildering Array of the Bearded, Beardless and Japanese Types Almost
Any Selection Works The Miracle of Beauty

ROWING nothing but iris is one of the

great garden temptations that flower-
lovers have to resist. So hardy is this group,
so prolific in bloom, so grateful for a little at-
tention that one is apt to overload on iris. And
yet, one can never have too much of them.
Perhaps the only way to resist this temptation
is to give in to it!

Save for a few types, the iris appreciates a
fairly dry, sunny spot. Its rhyzomes, lying
close to the surface or partly through it, ap-
preciate the sun on their backs. As the iris
multiplies rapidly it should be divided every
third year, preferably in the autumn. Do not
crowd it too closely in the border, and if you
would have it do its best, see that it receives
abundant sunlight. These simple requests
seem about all the iris has to make. The gar-
dener has merely to select colors and types to
suit her own particular preferences.

The range from which she can choose is al-
most as bewildering as the variety of peonies.
Pick up the nearest catalog to hand. Of new
types—82. The Germanica number 187, with
35 varied species and intermediates. There
are 27 of the dwarf bearded and 24 of the
beardless type, with 46 Japanese iris. Over
400 distinct kinds in one catalog, each with an
individual beauty. How then is the beginning

gardener to make her selection wisely, with an
eye to sufficient variety?

First locate the place or spaces that can be
given to iris. Then visualize the colors that
are desired. After that, except one be special-
izing in iris, there is nothing to do but wade in
blindly and choose according to color, height
and general family grouping.

The first great family is the Germanica, un-
der which are classed many subdivisions. They
bloom in May, range in color from rich yel-
lows, soft blues, purples, clarets and bronzes
to pure white, with every possible combination
of these colors. Many are fragrant, and all
have prominent beards. They range in size,
but for general purposes the tall bearded sorts
give the widest range for choice. The dwarf
bearded or Pumila species are best used in the
front of taller plantings. They flower from
the end of March to the end of May, when the
taller varieties take up the iris story and carry
it into the summer.

The second great family is the beardless.
Under this group are classed the moisture-
loving types, two of which, the water flag and
European yellow flag, can be grown partially
in water. This class appreciates a soil kept
moist by constant cultivation and containing
abundant richness.

Finally there is the Japanese or Iris Kaemp-
ferl, a type that deserves even more attention
than it is getting today. Their flowers are
often 10” across and borne on stalks 3’ high.
They also should be fall planted, given a mel-
low soil, plenty of moisture during the flower-
ing period and a dry dust mulch to prevent too
rapid evaporation. They are at their best in
a sunny situation, and should not be frequently
disturbed.

For a general collection of the Germanica
types, one that gives a good variety of colors,
the beginner couldn’t go wrong on: Wyomis-
sing, a creamy white suffused with soft rose;
Fro, a deep gold; Lohengrin, pink; Princess
Victoria Louise, primrose yellow and reddish
purple; Mithras, a light yellow and wine red;
Her Majesty, rose pink and bright crimson:
Pfanenauge, olive gold and bluish plum;
Rhein Nixe, white and violet blue; Spectabilis,
purple; Bridesmaid, lavender and white; and
Dr. Bernice, coppery bronze and velvet crimson.

In the Japanese iris class space permits the
selection of only six, but these are well worth
trying: Crane’s Feathers, white; Mandarin,
lavender and white; Rosy Dawn, purplish
rose; Starry Heavens, dark blue with yellow
blotches; Geisha, soft purplish rose’ finely
veined; White Waterfall, double white.

Iris can either stand alone or be given a shrubbery background. They appreciate a warm spot, fairly dry, except the Japanese types
which prefer moisture, and the water flag and European yellow flag, which can be planted in water

18

IIouse & Garden’s

DAHLIAS—PERENNIAL, and PERMANENTE Ye POPE.

A Short Course in Culture; Including Preparation of the Soil, Planting, Care of the Plants

Through the Growing Season, Storing for Winter, etc.

ad EAR after year the dahlia plods
along, adding new friends and
holding the old. New and better in-
troductions each season keep interest
at a high pitch among dahlia devotees
and create inspiration for more recent
admirers.

One thing that makes the dahlia so
popular with the masses is its abso-
lute dependability. A mechanical ex-
pert once said about the engine of a
popular automobile, *““You can over-
heat it, boil it over, flood it with oil
or neglect to oil it, and it will still
run.” Paraphrased, the
same is true of dahlias.
You are always certain
of returns, no matter how
neglectful or abusive you
may be in your treatment
of the plants. Of course,
the results are always
commensurate with the
treatment accorded, but
this one trait of yielding
dividends in spite of all
obstacles or neglect is
this flower’s greatest as-
set for most of us.

We may thank Mexico
for the dahlia. The
flowers when first intro-
duced were all single, but
after a few years under
cultivation in European
gardens a double variety
unexpectedly appeared.

Dahlias like room. Three feet is the
minimum distance apart each way;
four feet is better

Cross-fertilizing, with its

resultant development of

new varieties, is extremely
interesting work

The root
should be
set so that
the crown
is at least
6” below
the finish-
ed grade
of the
planting

Let the roots
dry thor-
oughly in the
sun before
storing, and
do not fail
to label them

Divide the roots
the spring

The soil
should be
firmed
down
about the
roots and
the hole
filled in as
the plant

grows

im

rather

than in the fall—

for best results

Since that time various types have
been introduced, and there are now
forms to suit the most critical, rang-
ing from the little pompoms or buttons
to the large, loose, peony flowered
types and the cactus sorts.

There are three distinct methods of
starting dahlias: from roots, cuttings
and seeds. The first is the most com-
mon method employed because it 13
by far the easiest; cuttings are used
extensively in increasing the stock of
new and desirable varieties, and are
the best for commercial purposes;
seeds are used in the
fascinating work of de-
veloping new varieties.
This last is extremely in-
teresting work. The
flowers can be cross-fer-
tilized by artificial
means, though the great
majority of dahlia grow-
ers allow the bees to per-
form this task for them.
In this case, flowers that
are to be crossed are
planted in close proxim-
ity to each other. The
results, of course, are
problematical, as we do
not actually know which
or how many kinds of
pollen have been de-
posited by the bees. But
one may be sure of in-
teresting developments.

Put the supporting stakes in posi-
tion when the shoots have grown to
be about 1 high

Small quantities of dahlia

roots can be stored in a

barrel for the winter, with
dry sand or sawdust

Book of Gardens

PLANTINGS FOR THE
HOUSE FOUNDATION

OUNDATION planting is essential to the

completed appearance of a house and
should be put in as soon as the building is fin-
ished. A new home without an effective plant-
ing is almost as incomplete as the interior
without the draperies or the pictures on the
walls. Neither is absolutely necessary for
physical comfort, but both are needed for com-
plete mental enjoyment.

The principles underlying this or any other
type of good landscape planting are not com-
plicated. In the first place, simplicity is of
paramount importance. The reason so many
places are spoiled is attributable to a desire to
have every kind of plant advertised, which
naturally results in a _ botanical collection
rather than a landscape garden.

There must be variety and harmony in the
shrub planting. Varieties should be selected
which blend easily together to form the general
mass effect. The form of the planting, or the
contour of the shrubs, must be carefully con-
sidered. Variety in this respect is secured by
setting taller growing kinds at the corners of
the house and flanking the entrances. The
other spaces may then be filled in with some-
what lower growing sorts, and the taller or
accent shrubs faced with lower plants like
Japanese barberry, dwarf spireas and deutzias.

Ptr iia

The great aim of founda-
tion planting is to tie the
house to its site. Here
only six kinds of shrubs
have been used to obtain
the desired effect. White
kerria and snowberry flank
the simple Colonial entrance

Tales

t3

OAS Ss

ae 30 40

“GRAPHIC: SCALE-

z=

Straight, hedge-like ef-
fects should be avoided
in foundation planting.
The plan at the left, and
the photograph of its ac-
tual planting below, em-
body irregularities which
should exist. C. S. Le-
Sure, landscape architect

Shrubs should be so selected that
the planting will have general year-
round beauty. There should be good
flower value in spring and early sum-
mer, attractive summer foliage, bril-
liant autumn leaves, colored bark:
and fruits for fall and winter. A list
of good shrubs, together with the dis-
tances apart at which they should be
planted, is as follows:

Tall shrubs: white kerria, 314’;
Aralia pentaphylla, 3’; Spiraea van
Houttei, 31%4'; Regel’s privet, 3’; Eng-
lish privet, 3’; Persian lilac, 4/-5’
Low shrubs: Japanese barberry, 2’-
214’; snowberry, 2’; Indian currant,
2’; spirea Anthony Waterer, 2’;
Deutzia gracilis, 2'; Spiraea callosa
alba, 2’; and Stephanandra flexu-
asa, 2’.

The shrubs should be planted in
thoroughly prepared and fertilized
beds of pleasing outline, long, smooth
curves being the best, as indicated in
the plans. The distance apart to
plant varies with the different species.
The spaded beds should be kept cul-
tivated during the growing season un-
til the mass occupies the entire area,

Autumn is the generally recognized
season for deciduous shrub planting,
since bushes set then become thor-
oughly established before any de-
mands are made upon them by the
growing season. But if they are
planted in the spring as soon as the
ground can be worked, there is no ex-
cuse for failure.

20 House & Garden’s

Good architecture alway
takes into account the ex-
isting features of the site
and if those features happen
to be noble trees, then half
the beauty of the finished
picture is already accom-
plished. At times it is even
advisable to change the plans
of a house altogether rather
than destroy the tree

The house illustrating this
point is a dignified inter-
pretation of Southern Colon-
zal, a type that requires the
immediate presence of large
trees and the approach of
broad lawns. It is the resi-
dence of Dr. Harold Spring-
er, at Centerville, near Wil-
mington, Delaware. Brown
& Whiteside, architects

Nien Hy Se Aue
EEE HOUSE

How Tree
Make The. Setiing

Book of Gardens

PLANTING
DECIDUOUS TREES
AND SHRUBS

General Principles of Arrangement
and Specific Details of Varieties,

Combinations and Groupings

OR an immediate effect under trying con-

ditions of soil, exposure and climate, de-
ciduous plants are to be preferred to evergreens.
In summer, they furnish luxuriant masses of
green flowers, and fragrance; in autumn bril-
liant coloring and fruits; nor are they devoid
of interest in winter, for vari-colored twigs
and persistent fruits give as much cheer as the
slower growing and doubly expensive conifers.
The choice of deciduous material for winter
effect is of more importance than is ordinarily
supposed, because the texture of the twigs,
whether coarse like the Physocarpus or fine
and glossy like the Spirea Van Houttei, will
make a vast difference in the aspect, particu-
larly if it is impracticable to mingle evergreens
with them.

Having decided upon deciduous planting as
the solution of a particular problem, the choice
lies between trees and shrubs. The former are
planted for shade, in avenues, as street trees,
or in groups on the lawn; for the beauty of
their flowers or foliage; for a utilitarian pur-
pose like fruits or nuts; to blot out an un-
pleasant outlook; or to form accents or high
points in massed shrubbery. Sometimes they
can be used effectively as isolated “‘specimens”’,
but this should be attempted cautiously.

Shrub Arrangements

Shrubs should be used in masses, though oc-
casional specimens are appropriate, such as the
lilacs flanking the entrance gate or the syringa
at the house corner. In planting for mass
effect two main types of arrangement are to be
considered :

There is the suburban place where the grass
is clipped and consequently a definite bed line
is required, and the shrubs present an unbroken
line of green at one with the grass. Such
planting needs very careful arrangement, due
regard being paid to height, form, and texture
of the mass, keeping the idea of bloom, fruit,
or other items of individual interest subordi-
nate to the effect as a whole. Of course, spot-
ting of specimens about the lawn is to be
avoided. It is desirable to maintain open
stretches interspersed with occasional trees, and
to screen the boundaries and service portions.

However, mere barrenness should not be
mistaken for apparent extent. The inner mar-
gin of massed shrubs should be so varied in
its contour that it shall half reveal, half con-
ceal the ravishing glimpses which compel one
to explore and classify the outlook spiritually;
whereas a uniform border would actually make
the place appear smaller because the entire
vista would be perspected at a glance.

In planning such a border it is necessary to
draw a plan showing the shapes of the masses
on the ground, and an elevation showing the
heights or sky line. As a rule, the greatest
thickness on the plan will have a correspond-
ingly greater height in the elevation. Avoid
monotony of form in plan and elevation alike.
Pointed accents, picturesque Japanese forms,
and low spreading types may give variety to
the softly rounded masses. In many places

21

8 16 24+

2 FT]

TREES
Height
1. Betula populifolia, 11 plants, groups
2’-3' apart. Gray birch, small tree
useful for effect of immediate height.. 4'-6’
2. Acer Ginnala, 3 plants, specimens.
Tartarian maple, small tree to 20’, red
StemSmandwenLulten entree ete a
3. Salix pentandra, 6 plants, 4’ apart.

Laurel leaved willow, small tree, dark
glossv foliage useful fer quick screen.. 5’-6’
SHRUBS
4. Cornus mascula, 3 plants, 4’ apart.
Cornelian cherry, very early yellow
Howereredmnnuitirene cerca
Syringa vulgaris hybrids, 5 plants, 3’
apart. Hybrid lilacs Marie LeGraye,
single white; Michael Buchner, double
lilac
6. Prunus japonica rosea fl. pl., 4 plants,
2%’ apart. Double pink flowering
almond, good combination with the
lilacs
. Spiraea Van Houttei, 4 plants, 3’ apart.
Van Houtte’s spiraea, white flowers in
May, drooping habit, faces down well. 3’-4’
Exochorda grandiflora, 1 plant. Pearl
bush, attractive white flowers in spring.
Covered with luxuriant green very
Gidh) Heo nbc po ono bobo NEON DSODNNON 3/-4"
9. Lonicera Morrowi, 7 plants, 3’ apart.
Japanese bush honeysuckle, white flow-
ers, red fruit. Luxuriant green foliage,
facesadowninwelleeeereeei eect eieicne 3’-4’
10. Hypericum aureum, 1 plant, specimen.

on

oo

PLANTING LIST FOR SUBURBAN PLACE
ELIZABETH LEONARD STRANG, Landscape Architect

SHRUBS
Height
St. John’s wort, large yellow flowers
with prominent stamens in July and
PSISUSE MIC Watcher crn 2'-3!

11. Viburnum dentatum, 3 plants, 4’ apart.
Arrow-wood, inconspicuous white flow-
ers, dark blue berries, dark crimson
autumn foliage. Medium size, 2’-3'... 3’-4’
2. Viburnum cassinoides, 2 plants, 4’
apart. Withe rod, white flowers, ber-
ries varied, rose, orange and blue, cov-
ered with whitish bloom, 2’-3’........ 3’-4’
3. Rhus glabra, 3 plants, 2’-3’ apart, close
together. Smooth sumac, accentuative
form, and vivid red in autumn, 2’-3’
OuceodoconboneoeeoooldoouldacouuseS 3’-4’
4. Rhus aromatica, 14 plants, 2%4’ apart.
Fragrant dwarf sumac, leaves out late,
small yellow blossom, vivid autumn
Kala Sonos deco Cup So aepedanoOnuaHobc ay
5. Hamamelis virginiana, 3 plants, 4’ apart.
Witch hazel, large leaves, excellent
green, small yellow flowers in Novem-
lWOrsisncocoononoaoounbosadcauesddodos 3-4’

16. Viburnum opulus, 3 plants, 4’ apart.
High bush cranberry, white flowers,
large red fruits in fall and early
Win tene oieeice acer erties 3-4’

17. Berberis Thunbergti, 9 plants, 2%’
apart. Japanese barberry, good facer,
vivid autumn red, bushy, red berries
remain on the shrub all winter until
pushed off by new leaves............ 2'-3!

these masses are high to shut out undesirable
outlooks, in other parts low to frame pleasant
views. It is not necessary that each part of the
border shall be graded down in three heights,
tall, medium and short, as is sometimes advo-
cated. This tends to stiffness, but it is de-
cidedly important that all leggy or ungainly
plants shall be faced with smaller shrubs whose
foliage grows closely down to the ground.
Finally, having thus carefully selected and ar-
ranged the plants according to form, some-
thing attractive should be included for each
season of the year, from the pussy willows and
Cornus mas of early spring to the witch hazel
of late autumn or the golden barked willows
and hawthorne berries of winter.

The second type of massed shrubbery plant-
ing to be considered is on the country place
where a high degree of polish is neither neces-
sary nor desirable. This affords a delightful
opportunity of creating informal woodsy plan-
tations of mingled trees and shrubs. If proper-
ly done it need not be limited to wild sites, but
may be introduced in suburban or large city
places. However, it requires greater art in its
execution than the first type, since the average
gardener in his zeal to have everything tidy,
spoils the hoped-for informality by sharp edges
of turf and too much clipping. In this kind of
planting the trees are set close together as they
are found growing in nature, even though to do
so hinders their best individual development.
There is no attempt to have an unbroken wall
of foliage, but the effect is more mixed, twiggy,

and open, with deep shadows and leafy under-
growth. No definite bed line is desirable, but
this merging of turf with shrubbery is always
a difficult problem to handle, since it entails
endless labor in keeping grass and weeds away
from the base of the shrubs. In the real coun-
try the grass growing long will not look out
of place, but in places where greater neatness
is desirable, wild violets will luxuriantly clothe
the bare soil, and quite choke out all unde-
sirable undergrowth.

Formal Uses

Still a third way of using shrubs or small
trees is in an architectural way in the formal
garden. A close hedge of Lombardy poplars
15’ high may stand across the end as a screen,
while at the sides are luxuriant green masses of
honeysuckle and syringa, pruned back to en-
courage a dense growth. In front of the pop-
lars the fine textured Stephanandra and Spirea
Van Houttei: contribute to the garden’s frame
of verdure, while the service entrances are al-
most entirely concealed by arching privet. The
flowering trees used as accents could be pink
crabs or cherries, standard lilacs or snowballs,
or specimen white dogwaods. The beds are
edged by a low clipped hedge of Japanese
barberry, with higher accents at the corners of
Spirea Van Houtter. Both of these shrubs are
very amenable to clipping. The former is much
used in regions where box is not hardy, and
where an evergreen edging is too expensive
or slow growing.

Garden’s

22

(Left) Barberry
is one sof the
best low hedg-
ing shrubs, es-
pecially for the
borders of paths
and driveways.
Its persistent
scarlet berries
are a winter as-
set

For an evergreen

(Below) Buck-
hedge or wind-

thorn deserves ; - : MS Hees
far more atten mn ie 1s break, arborvi-
tion than it has oR ‘ : : ae 44 tae is without a
received in this Sante eee : : ete 2 superior. It re-

5 Bigs ? D SRS nearer saat ete mains splendidly

country. It is

hardy, tall grow- 5 green through-

ing, and dense : % hor : ‘ bat out the year,
: hi Snes and may be

when properly & ‘ ;
pruned ¥. = ea sheared

During the summer the great white
heads of the hydrangeas make a
splendid showing along a driveway

T Egos Re

OF HEDGING

Another flowering hedge of great worth where formality is not re- Finally, there is the ubiquitous privet which, despite the frequency
quired can be made of multiflora roses. Various colors can be with which it is used, is the best for many situations. Some of the
selected, the wh and pinks being especially effective newer forms are more hardy than the commonly used California variety

Book of Gardens 23

=,

bps :
NOE RSA
5 Nf : BEE a reenter i.

Where the space is
large, as in @ sun-room
or conservatory, effec-
tive use can be made
of ivy on wall lattices
of various sorts. The
necessary pots and
other soil containers
can be decorative ad-
juncts in themselves if
well selected

The wall fountain and
tiny pool add im-
mensely to the sun-
room where their use
is possible and fitting.
Besides permitting the
growing of aquatic
plants, the water itself
will help keep the air
moist for the other
flowers

The
GARDEN
INSIDE
the HOUSE

24 House & Garden’s

Erica australis is one of the va
rieties of heather which assume
definitely tree-like form, though

The flowers of Acacia Drum-
mondu are in dense, drooping
spikes of a pale lemon-yellow

mi r ” ”
f : color, from 1" to 2 long
Upper center Erica upressa
PI eld ; ble OL I At the left is Erica Mediterranea,
ia natt, INR 1OSSOMS, vy F
HUES ih : a variety with rose, pale red or
Edouard VII (center) rose pink 5

white blossoms. With protection,
it should be hardy south of New
York

oms, and E. codonodes is pale
pink

lish heath which is

. this country. Com

pact form and _ small, densely massed
lowers characterize it

{nother of the many varieties of heather is

President Carnot, whose pinkish flowers

suggest those of the tall Spanish form in
the upper picture

M IN 1A EaGeReE
SiR U Bisa acer,
INDOOR BLOOM

Under Proper Condi-
tions They Are Both

Odd and Ornamental!

Book

of Gardens

25

THE LANDSCAPE DESIGN

Showing the Use of Color, Plans, Paths,
Steps, Arbors, Statuary and The Other

Accessories of Garden Enrichment

A. SEU DY

Vature is generou o the gardens of Bar
Harbor. However hot ihe day, evening al-
vays br.ngs a cool dew to refresh the plants
and assure sturdy growth. Moisture blows
in from the sea, giving life to the trees and
green to the lawns. This accounts for some
of the rich growth in the garden of Mrs. John

House

IN GARDEN TEXTURES

S. Kennedy, a spot that affords a pleasant
study in garden textures. Here is the velvet
of a rich, deep lawn, here the endless play of
light and shade among the phlox, delphiniums
and marguerites. Above the wall Lombardy
poplars sweep eloquently and the turfed alley
leads gently toward the pergola in the distance

&

Garden’s

Book of Gardens

ex NNING GARDENS

OF

27

GUNTES 7G © 1c7 O'R

The Principles of Color Variations, Contrasts and Harmonies Applied

HEN we speak of a garden being of one

color we mean that one color predomi-
nates, and that such flowers as have contrast-
ing and harmonious tones are used with it to
give the predominant color greater prominence.
This may be interpreted in several ways—a
yellow garden in spring, a blue garden in mid-
summer and a red garden in the autumn. Or,
if the owner’s penchant for one color is very
decided, the plants can be so selected as to
carry that color through from spring to au-
tumn. The color variations are
infinite. Here we can discuss only

gardens of blue, red and yellow. yon

To be effective, the flowers for
a blue garden must be of a true
blue color, entirely free from tones
verging on lavender and violet.
Inasmuch as blue is a receding
color more of it must be used than
is necessary in the case of strong,
advancing colors like scarlet and
yellow, and the effect will be weak
unless employed in masses suffi-
ciently large to overcome this

tendency.
Because a garden of one color
is always uninteresting, there

should be added to the blue at
each season a little deep, royal
purple of a shade that reveals no
hint of red or magenta and whose
velvety richness almost equals the
contrast value of black. Such a
purple combined with pure sky
blue achieves dazzling results. To
intensify the blue in the foregoing
contrast, introduce some pale yel-
low and creamy white. The
deeper the blue, the more intense
the yellow.

Accordingly the pale blue of
anchusa or flax looks best with
the straw color of Iris flavescens,
and the deep cobalt of Veronica
with the intense orange of the
California poppy. It is necessary
to bear in mind, however, that
these contrasting tones must at all
times be kept strictly subordinate

From early July umtil October the showy,
light blue bells of the platycodons are one of

the garden’s real sights

to Gardens of Blue, Red and Yellow

to the particular blue with which they are used.

In making the plan for the blue, or any other
color garden, it is impossible to forecast the
results to a nicety; but if the contrast proves
too strong when the garden is in bloom, it is
easy to reduce the tone by sufficient blossoms
to secure the proper effect.

The location of the various plants will de-
pend on their height and the form of the plants
themselves. For example, spikes of gladiolus
beside soft masses of gypsophila; larkspur in

Because of their vari-
ability, it is difficult to
get aquilegias of a uni-
form blue. But they
are good for secondary
positions

late April and May.

large round masses in the center of the beds
where they may dominate during their period
of bloom; asters around the boundaries where
they may grow inconspicuously in the fore and
mid parts of the season. An early flowering
plant should have a correspondingly late one
in front of it, which will hide the vacant space
when the former dies.

In order to test the distribution of color and
bloom for each season, lay pieces of tracing
paper over the plan, one piece for each season,
and trace in color the masses that
would be in bloom at that par-
ticular time.

These same general principles
apply to any kind of color gar-
den. The one great rule to re-
member is that the colors must be
strong and bold and undiluted.

For a time the American gar-
deners had a flair for what they
called pastel shades—colors di-
luted by white or hues diluted by
black, resulting in general effects
of soft pink and pale blue and
mauve. These gardens were rest-
ful, but one tired of them. In the
majority of cases the garden of
bright, intense effects is more
desirable. In the country where
everything is green, a bit of bright
coloring is a relief in a monotony
of verdure.

This is the justification for a
red garden. Skillfully place red
flowers in patches against a back-
ground of red foliage with which
are mingled white flowers of fine
texture, and you have real beauty.
Such a garden cannot be large.
The choice of white flowers to
combine with the red should also
be limited to those of small size
and soft texture or of solitary
stateliness.

The larkspurs, in a wide

variety of blues, supply a

dominating note during June,
and well on into July

The mertensia, or Virginia cowslip, blooms in

It is light blue, with
luxuriant gray-green foliage

“ / : ’
28
ie
4
r
‘
‘
t
!
“\
\
ee)
4
The color accents are at the garden’s focal points. Thus the yellows and
purples show strongest around the pool, are somewhat less striking by the
entrance steps, and are still more subordinated along the central walk
PLANTING LIST FOR A BLUE GARDEN
SPRING *18. Platycodon grandiforum: Japanese bellflower, SUMMER
Buss Bive os cane July 4) Oe es large, YELLOW

1. Chionodexa Lucile: Glory-of-the-snow, 3”-6”, showy, wide-open bells of light blue, pinker 33. Rose, Harrison’s Yellow: 37-5’, June. Small
mid-March fa ee — Light blue, an He pr a ae pone eles seeaneGial flowers completely covering the
shading to white at center. x ne ush.

: rence 2 eee : been omitted from the June list as not - 5 rar

*2. Scilla Sibirica: Siberian squill, 2”-6”, March A ran . 34. Thalictrum flavum: Meadow rue, 2’-4’, July
onal net China Bevo a greener cast eer Pa eaa coe fhe laskepus, and August. Tassels of greenish yellow.
than the chioncdoxa. 19. Salvia canireae Pitcher’s sage 3’-4’, August and 35: Clematis recta: Herbaceous Virgin’s Bower,

3. Muscari botryoides, var. Heavenly Blue: Grape September. Slender spikes of pale blue in SY sauy pee ar mid Tobe oie
hyacinth, 6”-9”, April and May. Deep blue great abundance, gray foliage. “ a erence: 5 Lace INS.
flowers in cluster 20. Agapanthus umbellatus: Afri lily (bulb) 36. Anthemis tinctoria, var. Kelwayi alba: Yellow

| lowers in clusters. fj é 20. <Agap e Z ican lily , marguerite, 2'-3’, June to October, but at

4. Puschkinia Libanotica: Striped squill, 4”-12”, August. Large umbels of deep blue flowers its best in July. This variety is very pale

late April to early May. Bluish violet. ws Sie ae be grown in pots yellow. :
PERENNIALS 7 y ? ender 37. Gypsophila paniculata: Baby’s Breath, 2'-3’, July
De Merion: Lee Eee cowslip, eee a ST a peed sD eg DIE RIOWETS, ad ees Sita of ies small white
ate April to late May. owers pendant, 2 itt] t 5” ligt 7 owers. ouble form 1s also good.
tubular, light blue with pink buds. The t yen epee Peet blite
luxuriant gray-green foliage dies down later 22. Annual larkspur: Light blue. 2’, satisfactory
| in the summer. in color and form. . AUTUMN

*7. Anchusa Italica, var. Opal: Italian alkanet, 3’, 23. Nemesia (annual): Light blue, 1’. Covered YELLOW
May and June. Light blue, masses well, with masses of small light blue flowers. 38. Hardy chrysanthemum: Small golden button,
very effective. Other good ueuk blue euena — nemo- 2'.3’, October and November.

8. Myosotis dissitiflora: Early forget-me-not, 6”- poua with hight blue cup-shade ORS
12”, late April to July. and nigella or love-in-a-mist.

Myosotis palustris, var. semperflorens: Ever- SPRING
Blooming eS ot May to Ae) Burs PURPLE
eptember. Both are light blue, the former rue 39. Crocus purpureus grandiflorus: Large, dee
BLOWone, tall and branching as the season 24. Aconitum Fischeri: _Monkshood, 2’, September 5f sume lis en a and pril. a
gener advances. a ang October Dwarf, with very large pale ERR
b olemonium reptans: greek valerian, 67-8”, blue flowers. a E A;
late April to early June. Creeping border 25. Aconitum Wilsoni: Monkshood, 5’-6', Septem- 40. Iris Germanica, var. Purple King: Flower-de-
plants of light blue, slightly lavender. ber and October. A taller variety with the luce, ie sane nee th Lise cee pile,
, . ” . mere same large light blue flowers. . one o € earliest o € family to :
ne Tea se al ode ede | c20. anton UE JN Woca, 3 Sep. | 4te Yiteormit, var Purple” Queen: Tale
Ratetieta : . tember. Clear blue flowers in large clusters. pansy, 6”-8” ay and June, and more or
Pee SRE: , < *27. Aster, Climax: 5’, September dae Ontened less all summer. A very deep purple.
ule Go ite Tote Aa oa Moen bee poe Very large light blue flowers with yellow
» 1-2’, M : centers.
selected hybrids are also good blues. 28. Gentiana scabra: Japanese gentian, 2; very SUMMER
— late. Intense blue. PURPLE
SUMMER 42. Clematis Jackmanni: Deep purple clematis,
BLuE SPRING une and July. With the larkspur. A vine

"12. Delphinium hybrids: Larkspur, 2’-5’, June and Buvrs : s YELLOW ¢ yung, nA UA be trained on a trellis
July.. Many tones of dark and light blue, 29. Tulipa Kaufmanniana: A very early tulip ap- 43. Phlox paniculata var. The Blue Hill: 3'-4',
combining well. The variety Belladonna pearing in March or April. Flowers some- August and September. Intense blackish
is a clear light blue. what SUTeanE, of one patie ween prints purple.

_ - Aa i x ‘5 : ~. rose yellow center, the outside striped an 44. Purple petunias (annual): Only use a certain

Be i tc aioe a eee 30;, “Narclaste ta pale vellow wariedes rach the dak ones?

“55 ake > , : » SUS ¥ 4 none of the reddish ones.

14. Salvia uliginosa: Sage, 4’, June_ until frost. Barri type: short cup, pale yellow perianth, 45. Purple gladioli (annual bulbs) var. Baron
Light blue flowers with gray foliage. Looks orange eye. ‘ Hulot: Later summer, time of bloom de-
best in background, as it is somewhat Poetaz Bybriae ts es cup, in clusters on pending on how late it is planted.
coarse. stem, pale yellow, fragrant.

15. Veronica longifolia var. subscessilis: Speedwell, Leedsit eype sauce: or chalice cup, very pale
3’, mid-July, lasts. 2 bh. : bz _creamy yellow or white. x ‘
pietiber Oe orth. | Veer eval 31. ap pawlay he A Meowenne ee AUTUMN

. Z Be 7 bes <2 en, aving globe-shaped flowers of pale lumi-

16. lala Cr a a ice nea nous yellow on tall stems. 46. Some bloom from violas and petunias; and
ee eae en aetoR ney PERENNIALS gladioli if planted in early July will bloom
Ci eee eae ee Tenn 32. Iris Germanica, var. flavescens: Flower-de-luce, in October and November.

17. Aconitum autumnale: Monkshood, 4’, August 2’-3’, blooms in May. Very pale straw
and September. Dull blue, shading to white. color. * Plants marked. thus used fcr dominant effect.

Book of Gardens

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SPRING
Rep
1. YTsuga Canadensis, hemlock: for hedge, 3’ high,
2%%' apart. :
2. Acer rubrum, red maple: frame planting, trees

10’ to 12’ high. )

Early tulips: Mais, dazzling scarlet, darker in-
side, model form, first to bloom; Dusart,
deep crimson, large, finely formed flower,
second to bloom; Kohinoor, deep velvety
crimson, purplish bloom, the darkest red
tulip, third to bloom of the early sorts.

4. Trilliwm erectwm, wake-robin: very dark red,

medium height, late April to early June.

5. Paeonia officinalis, common garden peony:
double crimson, likes half shade, mid-May
to mid-June, 2’-3’. :

6. Paeonia tenuifolia, red peony: large single flow-
ers and fine feathery foliage, likes half
shade, mid-May to mid-June, 1’-1%4’-

Paeonia paradoxa, herbaceous peony: compact,
dwarf plaut, single crimson flowers, glau-
cous foliage. Half shade, late May,
1-134".

8. Late tulips: Eclipse, glcwing blood-red, steel
blue base, probably the best for combina-
tion with old-fashioned peony, second to
bloom, Esato, bright blood-red, rich purple
bloom on outer petals; King Harold, deep
ox-blood red, purple-black base, third to
bloom; Inglescombe Scarlet, vermilion rea,
black base, fourth to bloom.

(3)

NI

9. Rhododendron hybrid, Abraham Lincoln: very
dark red.
10. Dianthus cruentus, dark red pink: June and

July, 17-174’.
WHITE

27. Amelanchier Canadensis, shad bush: small tree
covered with small white flowers in March

and April.

PLANTING LIST FOR A RED CARIDIEN

28. Sanguinaria Canadensis, blood-root: March and
early April, 3”-6”.
28a. Trillium grandiflorum, large flowered wake-
robin: pure white, very large flower, half
shade, May to early June, 6”-12”.
29. Arabis alpina, rock cress: low white, early April
to late May, 6”.

30. Spiraea van Houttei, Van Houtte’s spirea: May,
3-6"

30a. Spiraea Contonensis: May, lower bush but
Jarger flowers than the above. :
31. Sane vulgaris, var. alba, common white lilac:
ay.

32. Paeonia albiflora, var. The Bride: large single,
faint flush rose, golden stamens, early.
33. Thalictrum aquilegifolium, feathered columbine:
half shade, late May to mid-July, 1’-3’.
Thalictrum flavum. fen rue: greenish yellow,
half shade, July-Aug., 2’-4’.
SUMMER
Rep

11. Climbing roses: Crimson Rambler; Silver Moon,
single, large, silvery white.

12. Papaver bracteatum, oriental poppy: blood-red,
late May to mid-June, 3’-4’.

13. Potentilla argyrophylla, var. _ atrosanguinea,
cinquefoil: sun, June and July, 2’-3’.

14. Geum atrosanguineum florepleno, var. Mrs.
Bradshaw: double deep crimson avens,

June-July, 1

15. Heuchera sanguinea, coral bells: nodding red
Vena red stems, June to late September,
1’-114’

16. Monarda didyma, bee balm: ragged blood-red
heads, effective. Mid-June to early Sep-
tember, 144’-214'.

17. Althaea rosea, hollyhock: goa red
shades. Sun, July-August, 5’-8’.

18. Lobelia fulgens, shining cardinal “laaoee larger,
deeper red and more showy than the other,
July-Aug., 27-3’.

selected

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19. Phlox paniculata, var. Montagnard: deep blood-
red, July to October, 3’-4’.

20. Lobelia cardinalis, cardinal flower:
mid- September, 2'-4'.

August to

21. Lycoris sanguinea, blood-red amaryllis: sun,
July-Alug., 1’-3’.

22. Tuberous begonia: deep red.

23. Gladioli, red varieties of pure color: Princess

Orange, Governor Hanley, Cherry King.

24. Dahlias: J. Jackson, cactus, dark crimson
maroon; Le Grant, decorative, velvety red
shaded maroon.

W HITE
34. Clematis recta, herbaceous virgin’s bower: sun,
_ early June to mid-July, 2’-3’.
35. Iris Kaempfert, Japanese iris, var. Gould
Bound: white with yellow markings, sun,

June-July, 2’-3’.
36. Galium Molluge, mist flower:
to late August, 1’-3’.
37. Gypsophila paniculata, infant’s
August, 27-3’.
AUTUMN
RED
25. Hardy chrysanthemums:

half shade, June

breath: July-

Black Douglas, fringed
petals, dark mahogany brown, medium
early; Brown Bessie, small button, dark
brownish maroon; Regal Beauty, deep wine
re

26. Berberis Thunbergii, Japanese barberry: planted
for foliage and fruit effect of brilliant red.

WHITE

38. Boltonia asteroides, aster-like boltonia:
late August to mid-October, 2’-8’.

39. Anemone Japonica, Japanese anemone: sun or
half shade, late September to early No-
vember, 2’-2%4’.

40. Hardy chrvsanthemum, Queen of the Whites:
large flowered, medium to late.

sun,

As for the quality of the dominant color it-
self, there can, of course, be no mixture of
orange, scarlet or crimson tones. What is de-
sired’ is a real, true red, a glowing ruby or
blood color.

If white is the peacemaker of the garden,
yellow would seem to be the life of it. The
deep golden tones, by their very intensity, seem
to be in larger quantities than they really are.
Accordingly, in the garden of various colors
they contribute most to the general effect when
they are used as accents.

At certain seasons, however, we do not ob-
ject to an entire garden of vivid gold. In spring
a garden of crocus, forsythia and daffodils
forms a gorgeous though transitory picture;
and in the autumn, when sombre tones pre-
dominate in the landscape, great masses of
heleniums or chrysanthemums create an in-
stant response in the beholder. In midsummer
the eye wearies of hot, intense colors, and yel-
low should then be subordinated.

There is a type of yellow garden that could,
consistently and agreeably, be carried out for
the entire season. It is composed of pale prim-
rose-yellow and cream-white, and is selected
with the greatest care lest too strong a note ob-
trude on the softness of the general tone. To
avoid weakness or insipidity there is added a
dash of the darkest red imaginable—a velvety
black maroon with no hint of crimson.

By its very nature the color scheme suggests
great breadth of treatment in the arrangement
of the flowers in large and effective masses.
This effect is achieved by the comparative
shortness of the list and the frank, simple de-
sign of the garden, which admirably lends it-
self to well-balanced masses of bloom. A
cheerful warmth is its dominant characteristic;
an effect accentuated by the dark brown garden
house, the russet paths of tan bark or gravel,
the rich green of the high encircling hemlock
hedge and the dwarf box which frames the
beds. Outside the hedge are masses of shrubs

whose effect is that of light and grace itself.
The year begins in February with Japanese
witch-hazel; in March this is followed by
sprays of spice bush, Cornus mas in April, and
in late autumn by the native witch-hazel. All
of these have delicate blossoms of light yellow,
which in May become very striking with the aid
of laburnum or golden chain. With a certain
percentage of white—for instance, in April the
Magnolia stellata, the fringe-like creamy yel-
low wood and the white fringe-tree in late
spring—we evolve a contrasting background.
Inside the hedge certain shrubs and roses
pay royal tribute. At the outer corners are
strong masses of strawberry shrub whose cinna-
mon-scented brown flowers are an effective foil -
to the snowy white cascades of Spiraea Van
Houttet. All the entrances are sentinelled with
Harrison’s yellow rose, an old-fashioned fa-
vorite, in early June a shower of fragrant semi-
double blooms of sulphur yellow; while in
front of them are some dark red varieties.

30 : House & Garden’.
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The plan shows a rectangular garden with a round pool EUS
as the central feature. The planting key is below

PLANTING LIST FOR A YELLOW AND MAROON GARDEN

EARLY SPRING—APRIL AND MAY YrELLow—Bu tes Maroon—Survues, Roses anp WINES
YELLOW—PERENNIALS 11. May-flowering tulips 28. Hybrid Tea roses_ ;
1. Primula vulgaris: English primrose; large solitar: Moonlight: soft. but luminous canary-yellow, Richmond: brilliant crimson-scarlet; well-shaped
flowers of palest yellow. | long, oval flowers. buds.

Primula veris superba: giant yellow polyanthus; Flava: creamy canary-yellow, large flower on . Gruss an Teplitz: scarlet, shading crimson,
very large flowers in clusters, pale yellow, stiff stem. aa 29. Hybrid Perpetual rose: General Jacqueminot;
golden eye. Miss Willmott: soft primrose-yellow, darker scarlet-crimson.

2. Alyssum saxatile, var. Silver Queen: Gold Dust, with age. 30. Calycanthus floridus: Carolina _allspice; chocolate-

a very light yellow variety. Ww > colored flowers with spicy odor. Medium
WITE SHRUBS FOR CONTRAST
YELLOw—Butszs size shrub.

; . 12. Spirea Van Houttei: Van Houtte’s spirea; droop- | 31. Akebia quinata: good climber. delicate foliage;
at Hyacinth, Srp aliee e ere LN tea ing masses of pure white flowers. Excel- violet- een flowers with cinnamon odor.
ae Ss Sew re OG etree a lent background for May-flowering tulips. | LATE SUMMER—JULY AND AUGUST
4. Narciss or daffodils Maroon—PERENNIALS YELLOW—PERENNIALS

Leedsii: chalice and short-cupped varieties, 13. Peony | 32. Anthemis tinctoria var. alba: chamomile, a variet
white, cream or pale primrose (best ones Mrs. Key: single, dark blackish red, golden paler than the type; creamy white with yel-
are starred). stamens. low center. ‘ :

*Mrs. Langtry: pure white cup, perianth | Rubra triumphans: double, dark red, somewhat | 33- Hemerocallis Thunbergit: late lemon lily.
Fs Liat ; 7 _ | bluer in tone. YeELLoOw—ANNUvAL Buss
airy Queen: perianth and cup pure white. Miancon—_Bunes 34. Cactus dahlias
CRE Spurrell: perianth white, cup soft | 14. May-Blowering Tulips Countess of Lonsdale: salmon pink, amber and
! F A | he GON apricot.
Boned: perianth ivory-white, cup amber- | Badre Demet eo ety reddish maroon, shading ek gekaton: fawn yellow, suffused white.
¥ i mats Sa ladioli
Deed ice pure white, cup fluted, | Rong Harold: deep ox-blood red, purple-black = Niagara, clear yellow. Carmine ttHeeae
OSE | as 5 ird: clear yellow.
“Duchess of Westminster: perianth pure Rue sees Scie crimson-maroon blotch
white, cup soft canary yellow with darker | MIDSUMMER—JUNE AND EARLY JULY in throat. ‘
a ene trumpet as long as periantl SOLOW Ee enNiae ae ie a Sean eiee oe ate faa, Pee
: } as 2 =| “ = A —
| segments. P i Sete) | 15. Yucca filamentosa: Adam's Needle; tall, cream- eae aaeae ea coor ne faster ii a oe
| Lady Audrey: perianth milk white cup prim- | white clusters, very striking. . 2 y ; =)
se ‘ , a 16. Spirea filipendula flore pleno: a uble flowered MarooN— PERENNIALS
} rose, P filipe e ple 0 S M. B 1 fd a
Grace Darling: twisted perianth of white dropwort, cream-white; tall, delicate clus- | 36. Menarda didyma: Bee Balm; heads of deep re
| trumpet cream. ters. { from mid-June to early September.
“Mrs. Thompson: perianth creamy white: 7. Hemerocallis flava: early lemon lily. x Maroon—Annvuat Burps
trumpet yellow. : * | 18. Aquilegia chrysantha: late-flowering lemon-yellcw | 37. eas eee in
Madame de Graaf: perianth e whi columbine. oenix: dark velvety crimson.
pet primfose. : PUES Ee CEU 19. Digitalis grandiflora: late foxglove pale yellow Uncle Tom: dark maroon, nearly black.
5. Early tulips lined brown. Fill in after bulbs with annuals, dark red dwarf
Lord Derby: creamy white, large globula- 20. Althwa rosea: hollyhocks, frilled pale yellow and nasturtium, King of Tom Thumbs, dark red snap-
_ flower. : salmon tints. dragon.
Princess Ida: white, striped creamy yellow, YELLow—SuruBs AND Roses AUTUMN—SEPTEMBER TO NOVEMBER

yellow base. YELLOW—PERENNIALS

21. Polyantha rose: George Elgar; clear coppery yel-

P ; Maroon— PERENNIALS low, blooming from June ait acc ate 38. Hardy chrysanthemums, September-flowering.
6. Chieranthus Chieri: English wallflower; dark*st | 22. Brier rose: Harrison's Yellow: double, sulphur- Ralph Curtis: creamy-white.
= psy. Fed, almost black. yellow, profuse fragrant flowers. | Wells Primrose: yellow. z
7. Trillium erectum: three-leaved night-shade; very’ | 23. Climbing roses Large flowered Ashbury: white suffused
dark red. | Goldfinch: soft yellow, changing to lemon and -, Sulphur.
| : Maroon—Bu css white. King Henry: straw white.
8 Early tulips Gardenia: yellow, vigorous, Wichuraiana type. | 39- Clematis pislare fener Je eee Vira Bowe "
Apollo: dull blood red, changing to cla-et. | 24. Cytisus laburnum, var. Adami: golden chain, half teria LEC OU CRE WEISS asi
edged amber-brown; very large flower wi h standards, 234- 3’ high, long pendent fassels white flowers in autumn.
green base. of yellow. Oe tyes pap Erste - i
SPRING—LATE MAY AND EARLY JUNE | Manoon—PERENNIALS 30s, Hleherire at sis, i Ren Ge to
F ; YELLOW—PERENNIALS 25. Dianthus barbatus: Sweet William, darkest red Helenium autumnale, var. Superbum rubrum:
9. Iris Germanica, var. flavescens: German iris, only. color of the blood-red wallflower.
0 light straw color. 26. Papaver orientale, var. Mahony: dark crimson | 41. Hardy chrysanthemums
10. Peony, Delia: deep sulphur yellow with green | maroon poppy, shaded mahogany. Brown Bessie: small bronze button.
spot, double. : 27. Althea rosea: rat yhocks, double maroon. Black Douglas: dark red, large loose flowers.

Book of Gardens

ReOreGK GARDENS

31

ie Ne D> PE eR A al Ess

Suggestions for Creating a Garden of Alpine Plants, with Those Variations
of It, the Bog Garden and the Naturalistic Pool

ODAY the pleas-

ure which is de-
rived from the culti-
vation of smal] Alpine
plants is fully recog-
nized and enjoyed by
the owner of the me-
dium and small sized
property. The rock
garden—or Alpine
garden, as it is some-
times called—has be-
come a popular fea-
ture of modern land-
scaping and is no
longer found only on
large estates and pub-
lic parks. It is a place
of informal outline,
closely akin to the
wild garden, and is
developed along nat-
uralistic lines, aiming
toward the picturesque
in landscape design
and avoiding straight
lines and set arrange-
ments.

There are two types
of rock gardens: the
natural and the arti-
ficial. In the first.
the rocks have been
placed by nature; and
in the second they
have been arranged

A remarkably successful development of the rock garden.
chosen for its seclusion and freedom from cold winds.
can be seen the entrance to a grotto. An abundance of plants gives the
garden that sense of color and delicate growth so necessary to set off
the rugged lines of the rocks and put them into their proper place in

the general scheme. John Handrahan, landscape architect

The site is well
In the left center

by man. The old
quarry, the rocky
bank, and the rocky
knoll and valley all
lend themselves to the
development of the
natural rock garden.
Suggestions for the
construction and care
of an artificial rock
garden, as well as
planting lists of re-
liable Alpine flowers,
evergreens and ferns
for the natural rock
garden, are given on
the following pages.
From them a selection
can be made for any
situation.

The true rock gar-
den should be treated
as an isolated feature
of a property. The
site chosen for this
type of garden, when
circumstances permit,
should be away from
and out of sight of
anything formal. No
hard and fast rule for
the choice of a site
can be given, for it
obviously depends
upon what sites are
available. While a

low, blooms July.
blooms July-October.

March.

Abronia latifolia (sand verbena): trailing, lemon yel-
Achillea tomentosa (wooly yarrow): 1’, bright yellow,

Adonis amurensis (pheasant’s eye): 8”, yellow, blooms

Adonis pyrenaica: 1’, deep yellow, blooms May-July.

Adonis vernalis: 1’, yellow, blooms April-May.

Aethionema coridifolium (aethionema): 6”, rosy-pink,
blooms June-July.

Aethionema grandifiorum: 12”, rosy purple, blooms
June.

Ajuga genevensis (bugle-weed): 8”, bright blue, blooms
May-June.

Ajuga reptans: 6”, blue, blooms May-June.

Alyssum alpestre (madwort): 3”, golden yellow, blooms
May-July.

Alyssum montanum: 3”, yellow, blooms June-July.

Alyssum saxatile compactum (rock madwort): 1’, yel-
low, blooms April-May.

Androsace lanuginosa (rock jasmine): trailing, rose,

blooms May-October.

Aquilegia alpina superba (columbine): 2’, blue and
white, blooms May-June.

Aquilegia canadensis: 2’, red and yellow, blooms May-
June.

Aquilegia chrysantha: 3’, yellow, blooms June-August.

Aquilegia coerulea: 18”, blue, blooms May-June.

Aquilegia flavellata: 1’, pure white, blooms May-June.

Aquilegia nivea grandiflora: 2’, white, blooms May-

June.

Aquilegia Skinneri: 2’, greenish yellow, blooms May-
June.

Aquilegia wulgaris alba fi. pl.: 2’-3', white, blooms
May-June.

Arabis albida (rock cress): 5”-9", pure white, blooms
April-May.

Armeria alpina (thrift): 6”-10", pink, blooms May-
June.

Armeria maritima: 6", pink, crimson, blooms May-
June.

Asperula hexaphylla (woodruff): 6”-8”, white, blooms
May-June.

PLANT MATERIAL for the ROCKY, BANK

Dicentra spectabilis (bleeding heart): 1’, pink, blooms

Asperula odorata (sweet woodruff): 6”-12”, white,
blooms May-June.

Aster alpinus (blue mountain aster): 5”-10”, bright
purple, blooms May-June

Aubretia deltoides (purple rock cress): 4”-6", dark
violet, blooms April-May.

Aubretia purpurea: 4-5”, purple, blooms April-May.

Bellis perennis (English daisy): 5”, white and pink,
blooms. May-June.

Bellis rotundiflora coerulea: 4”, white, tinged laven-
der, blooms May-June.

Caltha palustris (marsh marigold): 1’, golden yel-
low, blooms April-May.

Caltha paiustris fl. pl.: 6”, bright yellow, blooms April-
May.

Campanula alpina (bell-flower): 6”-10", blue, July.

Campanula carpatica 9”-18", blue, blooms June-July.

Cerastium alpinum (chickweed): 2”-4”, white, blooms
May-June.

Cerastium tomentosum (snow in summer): 6”, silvery
foliage, white flowers, blooms June.

Centaurea dealbata (bachelor’s button): 18”, deep pink,
blooms July-August.

Chrysanthemum arcticwm: 12”-18", white, blooms Sep-
tember-November.

Claytonia wirginica (spring beauty): 6”, light pink,
blooms April-May.

Convallaria majalis (lily-of-the-valley): 6’-12”, pure
white, blooms May-June.

Crucianella stylosa (Crosswort): 6”-9", crimson, pink,
pale rose, blooms June-September.

Delphinium chinense (larkspur): 12”-18”", gentian blue,
blooms June-September.

Dianthus barbatus (sweet william): 12”-18’, red,
white, rose, blooms June-July.

Dianthus deltoides (maiden pink): 8”-9”, pink, white,
blooms June-July.

Dianthus neglectus: 8”, bright rosy pink, blooms June-
September.

Dianthus plumarius (grass pink): 1’, various colors,
blooms June-September.

Dicentra canadensis (squirrel corn): 6
May.

, white, blooms

Dracocephalum Ruyschiana (dragon’s head): §’-12”,

Doronicum excelsum (leopard’s bane): 18”-2’, bright

May-June.
purple, blooms June-July.

yellow, blooms April-May.

Epimedium alpinum (barrenwort): 9”, dark crimson,
yellow, blooms May-June.

Epimedium violaceum: 9”, violet, blooms May-June.

Euphorbia polychroma (milkwort): 2’, chrome yellow,
blooms April-May.

Gentiana acaulis (gentianella): 18”, deep blue, blooms
August-September.

Gentiana Andrewsti (bottle gentian): 18”-24”, deep
blue, blooms August-September.

Geranium sanguineum (crane’s-bill): 1’-18”, deep pur-
ple, blooms June.

Geranium sanguineum var. album: 18”, white, blooms
June.

Globularia trichosantha (globe daisy): 6”-8”, blue,
blooms May-June.

Gypsophylla repens (baby’s breath): 47-6”, bluish
white or pale pink, blooms June-July.

Helleborus niger (Christmas rose): 9”-15”, white and
purple, blooms March-April.

Hepatica triloba (common hepatica): 47-6”, white,
lavender, pink, blooms April-May.

Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells): 18”, bright crim-
son, blooms June-September.

Heuchera brizoides: 18”-2', purple, pink, blooms June-
September.

Hypericum calycinum (Aaron’s beard): 1’, golden yel-
low, blooms August.

Hypericum Moserianum: 18”, golden yellow, blooms
June-September.

Iberis sempervirens (candytuft): 10”, white, blooms
April-May.

Iberis sempervirens var. Little Gem: 6
April.

Incarvillea Delavayi (Delaway’s incarvillea): 1/-2’,
purplish rose, May-July.

Incarvillea grandifiora: 1’, bright rose color, blooms
May-June.

”

, white, blooms

w
nN

Boulders and a tiny stream well combined. Notice how

: The foreground flowers are Phlox subulata

rock garden can be made almost anywhere
upon a property, a natural site often exists and
needs only to be recognized.

The ideal situation involves the finding of
a sequestered and sheltered part of an estate
where sufficient but not too much sunshine can
be obtained and in which the plants will be

protected from the cold
winds of winter. If it
is possible, select a
place with an approach
through the wild gar-
den or shrubbery. A
stream should _ be
brought through the
garden if there is not
already running water.
A stream greatly in-
creases the variety of
plants that may be
grown, affords unlim-
ited possibilities, and
adds much to the charm
of the garden. An open
situation, away from
the roots of encroaching
trees or tall shrubbery,
should be selected, with
sloping, undulating
ground and preferably
facing south or south-
east. There should be
no trees within fifteen
yards of the garden, for
their roots extract the
plant food from the soil
and the dripping from
their branches is detri-
mental to most Alpine
plants.

of the garden is of the

utmost importance, and
should be done step by step. Remember that
the object of a rock garden is to grow plants
and not rocks. It is well to go to Nature and
study some natural geological formation rather
than try to build a second Stonehenge. Have
a definite design from which to work. Aim at
variety and balance in your plan and avoid

Iris pumila (dwarf iris): 4”-8”, deep violet, blooms Podophyllum peltatum (May apple): 6”-8”, white,

| May
Tris pumila florida: 6”, lemon yellow, blooms May.
Iris pumila formosa: 6"-8”", light and dark violet,
blooms May.
Linum flavum (yellow flax): 1'-2’, yellow, blooms
June-July.
Linum perenne (perennial flax): 1’, blue, blooms June-

| August
Lychnis Haageana (shaggy lychnis): 8”-12”, red,
blooms June-August.
Lysimachia nummularia (moneywort): 1”-2”, yellow,

blooms June-July.

Mertensia virginica (mertensia): 18”, blue, blooms
May-June.

Myosotis palustris semperflorens (forget-me-not): 8”,
blue, blooms May-September.

Myosotis alpestris: 3"-8", blue, blooms May-September.

Nepeta glechoma (ground ivy): 3”, blue, blooms May-
June.

Oenothera missouriensis (Missouri evening primrose) :
1’-2’, yellow, blooms June-August.

Oenothera cespitosa (syn. marginata): 9”, white,
blooms July-September.

Oenothera fruticosa Youngti: 18”, yellow, July-Octo-
ber.

Oenothera taraxacifolia (syn. acaulis): 6”-9", white
changing to rose, blooms July-October.

Pachysandra_ terminalis (spurge): 6”-9", greenish
white, blooms May-June.

Papaver alpinum (Alpine poppy): 6”, white, blooms
May-June.

Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy): 12”, white, yel-
low, orange, red, blooms May-October

Pentstemon digitalis (beard tongue) 4”-S”", white,
blooms August-October.

Phlox amoena (hairy phlox): 4”-6”, bright rose,
blooms May-June-July.

Phlox divaricata (wild sweet william): 12”, lilac,

blooms April-May.
Phlox divaricata alba: 4”-6"”, white, blooms May.
Phlox subulata (moss_ pink); 4”-6”, various pink,
blooms April-May-June.
Phlox subulata rosea: 3”-6", rose, blooms April-May
Plumbago larpentae (leadwort): 6”-12”, deep blue,
blooms August-September

blooms April-May.
Polemonium reptans (Jacob’s ladder): 6”-8”, light
blue, blooms April-May.

Polygonatum multiflorum (Solomon’s seal): 67-12”,
greenish white, blooms April-June.
Primula Sieboldti (primrose): 6”-12”, white and vari-

ous, blooms April-May.

Primula veris (cowslip): 6”-9", canary yellow, blooms
April-May.

Pulmonaria angustifolia (blue cowslip):°6”-12”, blue,
blooms May.
Pulmonaria saccharata (lungwort): 1”-2”, pink chang-
ing to blue, blooms May-June. =. te
Ranunculus repens fl. pl. (creeping double buttercup):
6”-12”, yellow, blooms May-August.

Sanguinaria canadensis (bloodroot): 6”, white, blooms
April-May.

Santolina incana (lavendar cotton): 18”, silvery white
foliage.

Saxifraga crassifolia (saxifrage): 12”-15”, pink, blooms
April-May-June.

Saxifraga cordifolia: 12”, lilac-purple, blooms April-
May.

Sedum acre (stonecrop): 2”-3”, yellow, blooms May-
June.

Sedum spectabile (showy stonecrop): 18”, lavender-
pink, blooms September-October.

Sedum stoloniferum: 6”, purplish pink, blooms July.

Silene alpestris (catch-fly): 4”, white, blooms July-
August.

Spiraea filipendula (dropwort): 15”, white, blooms
June-July.

Trillium erectum (wake-robin): 12”-18”, purple, blooms
April-May.

Trillium grandifiorum: 12”-18", white, April-May.

Trollius europaeus (globe flower): 18”-2’, pale yellow,
blooms May-August.

Tropaeolum polyphyllum (nasturtium): trailing, orange
yellow, blooms June-July.
Veronica Allionti (speedwell): 6

June.
Veronica spicata 1'-18", bright blue, June-July.
Vinca minor (periwinkle or myrtle): 6”, evergreen.
Viola cornuta (tufted pansy): 5”-8”, various, blooms
April to frost.

”, blue, blooms May-

House & Garden’s

sn Ree Artificial rock-work must be handled with restraint to
effectively the large elm tree focusses the whole effect. The proper building avoid grotesqueness. Quite fittingly, the entrance to this

naturalistic grotto is flanked by tall ferns

fussy effects. Place your stones so that the
finished effect will reproduce in small rock
gardens some portion of an Alpine scene, and
in medium sized or large ones the scene in its
entirety but on a small scale.

In placing the rocks remember that the ob-
ject is to make the visible ones appear to be

PLANT MATERIAL FOR THE BOG GARDEN

Adonis amurensis (pheasant’s eye): 9"-1’, yellow
blooms “March-May.
Adonis pyrenaica: 1% golden yellow, blooms
May.

Adonis vernalis: 9"-1', deep yellow, May.

Andromeda floribunda (andromeda): 2'-3’, white,
blooms early May. }

Andromeda polyfolia: 1’, pink, blooms May. |

Anemone alpina (anemone): 6”-1’, white, blooms May.

Arethusa bulbosa (arethusa): 8”, rose-purple, blooms
May.

Azalea amoena (azalea): 12”-15", rosy crimson,
blooms May.

Azalea hinodegira: 12”, brilliant red, blooms May
June.

Azalea procumbens: 2'-3', pink, blooms April-May.

Azalea rosaeflora: 3’, salmon, blooms April-May.

Azalea vaseyi 3’ -4’, light pink, blooms early May.

Berberis empetrifolia (barberry): 18”-2’, orange.

Boltonia latisquama var. nana (false chamomile): 2’,
pinkish lavender, blooms August-September.

Calceolaria plantaginea (calceolaria): 12”, yellow,
June-August.

Caltha palustris (marsh marigold): 1’, yellow, blooms
April-May.

Caltha monstrosa fl. pl.: 12”, white, blooms April-May.

Caltha parnassifolia: 12”, yellow, blooms April-May.

Campanula hederacea (bellflower): 3”, bluish purple,
blooms May-June.

Convallaria mayalis (lily-of-the-valley): 8”, white,
blooms May-June.

Cypripedium spectabile (lady’s slipper): 8”, white,
blooms May.

Daphne blagayana: 12”, creamy white, blooms April-
May.

Daphne cneorum (garland flower): 12”, rose, blooms
May-June.

Daphne Genkwa: 3’, lilac, blooms May-June.

Daphne mezereum: 18”, pink, blooms March.

Dicentra canadensis: 6”, white, blooms May.

Dodecatheon integrifolia (shooting star): 4”-6”, rosy
crimson, blooms May-June.

Dodecatheon Jeffreyi: 18”, dark rose, blooms May-
June.

Book of Gardens

only a smail part of
what is hidden by the
soil. Place the addi-
tional rocks so that
the strata all run in
the same direction,
putting the largest
rocks and boulders at
the bottom and bury-
ing them one-third in
the ground. The size
of the stones used
should depend upon
the size of your gar-
den. Build the rocks
and soil carefully to-
gether, eliminating air
spaces between the
rocks. The stones
should be placed in
such a manner that
the water will drain
into the soil rather
than run off. Finally,
remember to leave
plenty of pockets for
the soil and plants
between the rocks.

It is advisable to
use rocks that will
give an old, weather-
beaten appearance,
such as moss-grown
stones; but it is of the
utmost importance to avoid anything which
will crumble with exposure. Artificial rocks,
bricks, old tree stumps or wood of any kind
should never be used. Sandstone and moun-
tain limestone are good to use because they are
soft and porous and of a moisture-retaining
character.

Alpine plants, contrary to a quite wide-
spread belief that they will grow in almost any

To one standing near the rock house shown in the photograph on page 31, this view is presented.
Lombardy and Bolles poplars mark the skyline above the golden elders which form a background
for the smaller plants

kind of earth, require a good rich soil. Porous
soil mixed with leaf mold and well rotted
manure, used to a depth of 2’ or 3’ with a light,
sandy subsoil, will give the best results. Avoid
a heavy clay soil. The garden must be con-
stantly watched in summer and the ground kept
from drying out. An annual top-dressing of
soil every spring will prove beneficial to all
the plants.

33

Good drainage is
essential to the success
of this type of garden.
The correct placing of
the rocks and _ the
presence of a tiny
stream are great aids
to proper drainage but
are not sufficient in
all cases. For dry
stone wall gardens it
is sometimes necessary
to install a esub-irri-
gation system consist-
ing of a_ perforated
wrought iron pipe
placed along the top
and rear of the wall.
In most cases it is not
necessary, however, to
irrigate if care 1s
taken in the location
and building of the
garden.

The planting calls
for care and a fine
sense of fitness. One’s
aim should be to have
the garden present the
best possible appear-
ance throughout the
year; this can be ac-
complished by pro-
viding for a continu-
ity of bloom. By using the early spring flower-
ing bulbs such as snowdrops, scillas, crocuses,
grape hyacinths, chionodoxa, colchicum and
poet’s narcissus for early ‘spring bloom, the
Alpines and small, compact growing shrubs for
spring and summer, and dwarf evergreens for
winter when the flowering plants have died
down, a pleasing year-round effect results
which offers abundant variety.

Gentiana asclepiadea (gentian): 2’, blue, blooms July.

Gentiana bavarica: 1', blue, blooms July.

Gentiana Favratii: 1'-2’, deep blue, blooms July.

Gentiana Kurroo: 1'-18", blue, blooms September.

Gentiana pneumonanthe: 6”-8”, deep blue, blooms
August.

Gentiana verna: 1’, blue, blooms May-June.

Tris cristata (iris): 6”, azure blue and lilac, blooms
April-May.

Tris sibirica: 1’, lilac, blooms April-May.

Linnaea borealis: 8”-12", pale pink, blooms June.

Lobelia cardinalis (cardinal flower): 2’-3’, red, blooms
August-September.

Lobelia syphilitica: 2’-3’, blue, blooms August-Sept.

Muscari botryoides (grape hyacinth): 6”, blue, blooms
March-April.

Oenothera Arendsii (evening primrose): 1/-18”, pink,
blooms May.

Oenothera cespitosa: 12", white changing to rose,
blooms May.

Oenothera fruticosa: 18”, yellow, blooms May.

Oenothera speciosa: 18”, white changing to pink,
blooms May.

Orchis foliosa (Madeira orchid): 18”, rosy purple,
blooms May.

Orchis latifolia: 12”, purple, blooms June.

Orchis maculata var. superba: 18”-2', lilac spotted
purple, blooms June.

Primula Bulleyana 1', orange scarlet, blooms June.

Primula involucrata: 6”, creamy white, blooms April-
July.

Primula japonica: 1’, deep crimson to pure white,
blooms May.

Primula pulverulenta: 1’, crimson, blooms April-May.

Primula rosea: 6”, rosy carmine, blooms April.

Primula sikkimensis: 1’, yellow, blooms May.

Ranunculus aconitifolius (crowfoot): 2’, white, hlooms
May.

Ranunculus alpestris: 4”-6", white, blooms June-July.

Ranunculus parnassifolius 6”, white, blooms June.

Sanguinaria canadensis: 6”, white, blooms April-May.

Saxifraga cespitosa: 4”, red, blooms April-May.

Sazifraga sanguinea superba: 4”, scarlet, blooms May-
July.

Saxifraga exarata: 4”, white, blooms June.

Saxifraga globulifera: 4”, white, blooms May-June.

Trillium erectum: 1’, purple, blooms May.
Trillium granditiorum: 1’, white, blooms May.

PLANT MATERIALS FOR POOLS AND PONDS

(* Plants suitable for 1’ or less of water, or on banks)

Butomus umbellatus (flowering rush): 2’-3’, rose,
blooms summer.

*Caltha palustris (marsh marigold): 1’-2’, bright yel-
low, blooms April-June.

Carex (sedge): 1’-3’.

Epilobium hirsutum (willow-herb): 2’-4’, purplish.

Hippuris vulgaris (horse-tail): 2’.

Hotonia palustris (feather-foil): light purple, blooms
summer.

*Tris laevigata (Japanese iris): 2’-3’, various, except
red, blooms June, July.

*Iris pseudo-acorus: 2'-3’, yellow, blooms June.

Iris versicolor (native blue flag): 2’-3’, purple marked
with yellow, blooms June.

*Tris sibirica: 2'-3', lavender, blooms June.

*Lysimachia thyrsiflora (loose-strife): 4”-6”, yellow.

*Myosotis palustris (forget-me-not) : blue, blooms June.

Nuphar lutewm (European yellow pond lily): blooms
June.

Nymphaea advena (yellow water lily): yellow, blooms
June to August.

*Nymphaea alba var. candidissima (white water lily):
white, blooms June to August.

*Nymphaea Marliacea (Marliac’s hybrids): white,
blooms June to August.

Nymphaea odorata (native white pond lily): white,
blooms June to August.

Nymphaea odorata var. rosea (Cape Cod water lily):
pink, blooms June to August.

Polygonum amphibium: spreading, light rose.

Pontederia cordata (pickerel weed): 2’-4’, purple,

blooms June to August.

Ranunculus aquaticus var. lingua major.

Sagittaria latifolia (arrowhead): 6’-4’, clear white.

*Typha latifolia (cat-tail rush): 4’-8’, brown, July to
August.

PLANT MATERIAL FOR THE DRY WALL
(Those which thrive best when planted flat against

a perpendicular rock face are marked (*). The color,
height and period of bloom of these plants may be
found under the list of material for the rocky bank.)

*Androsace alpina.
*Androsace pyrenaica.
Arabis albida.

Ajuga repens.

*Armeria cespitosa.
Aubretias of all kinds.
*Campanula Elantines.
*Campanula fragilis.
Campanula rotundifolia.
Cheiranthus alpinus.
Aquilegias of all kinds.
Dianthus arvernensis.
“Dianthus suavts.
*Gentiana acaulis.
Primula marginata.
Primula viscosa.
Saponaria cespitosa.
Saxtfrages.

Sedum acre.

Silene alpestris.

PLANT MATERIAL FOR CREVICES BETWEEN
WALKS AND STONY STEPS

Ajuga repens (bugle weed).

Alyssum saxatile compactum (silver madwort)
Aquilegias (columbine).

Arabis albida (rock cress).

Campanula cespitosa (bellflower).
Campanula rotundifolia (harebell).
Cerastium tomentosum (snow-in-summer).
Cheiranthus alpinus (wallflower).
Gentiana acaulis (gentianella).

Gerantum maculatum (crane’s bill).
Gypsophila repens (baby’s breath).
Phlox subulata (moss pink).

Portulaca grandiflora (rose moss).
Sanguinaria canadensis (bloodroot).
Saponaria ocymoides (soapwort).

Sedum acre (wall pepper).

Tunica saxifraga (saxifrage).

Veronica rupestris (speedwell).

ios}
ass

MAE SPURT

/ N old fashioned
WA cen how the picture
flashes the mind!
Lilac, laburnum, snowballs
and syringas arching over
the gate and crowding th
white pl kets of the fence.
A sundial and arbor of
delicate Colonial pattern ;
neatly raked gravel paths
skirting the box-edged | eds
wherein graciously nod the

var-

across

flowers our grandmothers
loved hollyhocks, hones-
ty, roses and heart’s-ease.
’ Many such gardens can
still be seen, and the old

ladies are always smil-

ingly glad to entertain
you. They will point out
their treasures with par-

ticular pride—the old fig
tree, the mulberries, and the
grapes—and in the arbor
before you leave, serve you
tea in the blue Crown set.

How can such a garden
Was not
its evanescent charm too
subtle to be expressed in
terms of beds and walks,
shrubs and flowers? What was its

The old gardens were successful because
they filled an actual need in the lives of the
people. To appreciate this it is necessary to
know how those people lived, and to study their
ideals. A modern reproduction of an old-
fashioned garden must fill a like requirement
in the lives of people today or it cannot be a
success, no matter how truly it imitates the old.
People are not now so dependent on their gar-
dens for the necessities of life. The raising of
fruits and vegetables for
practical use, while not
wholly discontinued, in
normal times has become
subordinate to the growing
of flowers for cutting and
out-of-door decorative ef-
fect. Standards, too, have
changed. We are no
longer satisfied with the
ungentle mixtures of color
which the old gardens dis-
played.

There are distinct kinds
of old gardens in each sec-
tion of the country. In
the extreme South is the
Spanish type, a walled en-
closure of simple though
formal design, with roses,

*be reproduced ?

secret ?

heliotrope and carnations,
and lemons,
and pomegranates.

oranges figs

In the Carolinas we as-

sociate the walled enclo
sures about the stately old
mansions with live oaks
draped in gray moss, aza
leas, camellias, and crépe

myrtles.
In Virginia, as with all

often included a parterre.

of OLD-FASHIONED

With a Plan for a Garden Reproducing the
Atmosphere of the Puritans

In the old-fashioned garden flowers straggled informally over the walks, their back-
ground of tall shrubs lending an air of length and seclusion.
and the text are the work of Elizabeth Leonard Strang, landscape architect

of the Colonies, the earliest gardens were for
necessities alone, but soon the luxurious ideas
of the Cavaliers began to assert themselves and
flowers occupied a definite place in the decora-
tive scheme. Living as they did on large plan-
tations, there were no homely enclosures or
cottage gardens. The settlers brought ideas
from Holland, acquired during their exile in
that country; from Italy, and from England,
where the Elizabethan garden was then at
the height of its perfection and popularity.

The Cavalier type, which was found in the Virginias, had a strongly formal spirit. It

These gardens, the plan

The simplicity of the design and the neatness suggest the
old Elizabethan gardens, their general source of inspiration

@& Garden’s

GARDENS

House

These early gardens
were carefully designed.
Usually a terrace next the
house, with a _ retaining
wall and broad steps of
stone overlooked the par-
terre with its knots or beds
of boxwood. ‘These were
often very elaborate, the
pattern deemed of more
importance than the flow-
ers which filled it. Next
came the garden proper, a
larger enclosure with broad
straight walks and beds of
simple design, the whole
always enclosed bya hedge
or high wall.

The Quaker gardens,
like those of the Cavaliers,
were laid out along ample
proportions and long rest-
ful lines, but with less of
elaboration and luxury as
befitted their simpler tastes.

The gardens of the
Dutch were trim, minute
enclosures, their design
based on the square, the
circle, or the oval, kept
with extreme neatness and
planted with flowers, vegetables, herbs and
fruits, cabbages and tulips occupying espe-
cially prominent places among them.

The Puritan nature is found expressed in
the gardens of New England, and such designs
as they followed were adaptations from the
Dutch, though more often the little fenced-in
front yards held only simple square beds. The
first mention we find of gardens for flowers was
in 1629, but from the very beginning there was
the useful plot at the back, where lowly back-
door flowers, vegetables,
fruits and simples shared
in contributing necessities
and comforts to their care-
takers.

No formula can be laid
down for making an old-
fashioned garden. Every
type of house, be it Span-
ish, Georgian Colonial,
Pennsylvania stone, Long
Island Dutch, or New
England square, has its
special problem, in the so-
lution of which climate as
well as architecture plays
an important part that we
must not overlook.

In Puritan times, to
grow flowers for their
beauty alone was held to
be, if not a sin, at least a
vanity. Nevertheless the
busy housewife found mo-
ments in which to care for
the little fenced-in plot
before the house.

The authoritative list is
short: crown imperials,
daffodils, red and yellow
tulips, poet’s narcissus and

Book of Gardens

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ANUUESATAUASAYUAMASUOCOUAGRAAAYYO UA ULTUUV LEU A a eneeeCUP eC eE Ree EHH EPH

grape hyacinths, red peonies, purple and yellow
iris, magenta phlox, Canterbury bells, scarlet
lychnis or Maltese cross, and day lilies of blue
and white comprise the list. Surrounding the
flowers were always a few old shrubs—flower-
ing almond in the place of honor under the
window, and Peter’s wreath, sweet shrub,
flowering currant, snowberry and a few choice
roses near by.

Such a mixture would hardly appeal to our
ideals of beauty today, so many flowers of har-
monious color and sentiment have been in-
cluded in the plan for the front yard garden,

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35

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VR.G TABLES. TRIAL PLOTS

Conn ave

The Puritan garden and its planting plan given

on this page represent the spirit of an age

which demanded utility as well as an intimate
touch of beauty

which is small enough to be taken care of by
the housewife of today.

The tall flowers are grouped promiscuously
in the centers of the beds with some attempt
at balance of season, while mixed edgings of
tiny plants, bulbs and fragrant herbs creep
over the brick-edged paths. Oleanders in tubs
provide a note of architectural dignity, holly-
hocks stand in serried ranks against the house,

Pee PTET CE

hawthorns and sweetbriar shut off the street,
and round about are other old shrubs and roses.

In the rear of this garden is a typical plot
laid out as these orderly householders loved to
have it. The general plan is informal in the
extreme and at first glance seems irregular and
disorderly. It was really very carefully
planned, however. The beds were not laid out
in shapes for their own sakes, but there is care-
ful design in the sense that the garden as a
whole served a useful purpose and each plant
was placed in the location most favorable to
its growth.

PLANTING LIST FOR THE FENCED-IN FRONT YARD SHRUBS AND ROSES ‘i ?
19. Azalea Vaseyi: soft pink, April. shade.
20. Ox (a) ABE eels aesetaes a pccentsron Conn era Sint, (te) old ragged dwarf
ears : c stb edging box down center walk, collected from old place if possible.
Note: Only the part of Plan 2 between lines A-A is included here. 21. Berberis vulgaris: common barberry or pepperidge; for jelly, near kitchen.
22. Syringa or mock orange, shade.
SHRUBS AND VINES ; 2 i i: 4 9 vere 7 are
1. Crategus oxyacantha: English hawthorn, fragrant white flowers in May, red fruits. 23: ponicens ioriow (bush oneysuchlers Pa OCS play ered Sit
2. Prunus Japonica, flore pleno: double pink or white flowering almond, May. 24. Lilac, common purple and white, tall to close in ertermvints
i y B 4 uf 24. , n 3 : sta.
3. Syringa vulgaris: common purple lilac, May. 25. Persian lilac, medium to tall
4. Philadelphus coronarius: Mock orange, white, June 26. Flowering quince, common flaming red variety most old-fashioned
5. Symphoricarpos racemosus: snowberr fruits, always found. 27. Flowering almond, double pink and white, short to medium, :
6. Spirea_prunifolia: Peter’s wreath; white, upright bush, May. 28. Flowering currant) center walk and front’ fence, medium to tall
7. Old-fashioned roses — ; ; ; ; wave Alera Mian en 29. Snowball, medium to tall. : ;
A. Rosa rubiginosa: eglantine or sweet-briar, single pink flowers, tall thorny bush. 30. Cornelian cherry, along back fence in shade. For early flower.
B. Celestial rose: clear white, very sweet, loosely double. — i 31. Smoke tree. closes in end of arbor.
C. Perpetual rose: delicate blush, blooms continuously, upright bush. 32. Tamarix Gallica: tamarisk; small tree, feathery green with pink flowers.
D. Tuscany rose: black-purple, fading to dark crimson. 33. Roses as in other lists
E. White Provence we CeO BES Tose. ‘A. Damask. ?
PERENNIALS AND ANNU. -
8. Chieranthus Chieri: wallflower, kau red, cream color, yellow and brown. May. Si pum andi whi tal
9. Peonies, pink and white as in list 2. D. Scotch briar. E. Moss, red, white, pink
10. Iris as in lists 1 and 2. é a x 3 ss ‘
11. Armeria maritima: thrift or sea gilliflower; pink, May. Dense foliage, useful for edgings. vA wistaria Chinensis: purple wistaria, trained to rustic cedar pole.
12; gulouer sma leats for edgings to be put two or three of a kind. 35. Aciue eulnatas fvastingered BaD delicately twining vine: fine leaves and fragrant
. vv. chocolate flowers. Not on lists but seen in old Salem gardens.
B. Pansies. 36. Hululus lupulus: hop vine; (annual) good for immediate effect.
Cc. Johnny-Jump-Up. ks 37. Lonicera sempervirens: coral honeysuckle; not on oldest lists but unlike old ones, pur-
D. Annual candytuft seeded where space occurs. chaseable. Long scarlet flowers and thick glaucous leaves united at the base.
E. Scotch pinks, all’ around ceuter bed and on corners. HERBS
F. Sweet violets. 38. iperita: 5 d. x in i i r 7
GUS ot hesvale, yf shade, under shrubs SE ST ta ee elf eG mee
H. Rosmarinus officinalis: rosemary. Allium Schenoprasum: chives; for salads and soups.
& ibys pul panls cheep De thyme. Saivia officinalis: sage; for meats and dressing.
cS uta graveolens: rue. . : c i : ing.
K. eave nc vera: sweet lavender. These herbs to be put in hit or miss with flowers. Fiymust vulgaus pcr cer Bet UY ULC COEF MANOLINeY hardy north.
3. Valerian officinalis: garden heliotrope; pink, June. : “ aed Lippia citriodora: lemon verbena, for scenting linens; not hardy.
14. Dianthus barbatus: Sweet William; newer strains of pure white, dark red or pink are best. Nepeta cataris: catnip or catmint; soothing drink, cats fond of it.
15. Digitalis purpurea: foxglove; white, purple, pink, June. VEGETABLES
Digitalls ambigua: great woolly foxglove, brown markings, June-July. 39. Cabbage used as a border in old gardens.
Digitalis lanata: woolly foxglove, small cream, grayish or purple flowers, June-July. 40. Parsley used to edge vegetable beds, as it also is today.
16. Campanula persicifelia: bell-flowers; white aud blue, June. a 41. Rhubarb, an ornamental accent as well as useful vegetable.
Campanula pyramidalis: chimney bell-flower; white and blue, July-August. 42. Asparagus, placed where the feathery plumes will frame the lawn.
17. Althzwa rosea: hollyhock; single yellow, salmon and pink; massed against house; July. PERENNIALS
18. Delphinium ajacis: annual larkspur; blue, pink, white, all summer. 43. Bleeding-heart at corners of eross-walk.
Delphinium Chinensis: fine foliage, very deep blue flowers, July. 44. Wild flowers in shade among ferns next lawn. Viola Canadensis and_ pubescens, tall
Delphinium sulphureum: light yellow, half-shade. white and yellow violets; foam flower, wild Sweet William, May-apple, Jack-in-the-
19. Aconitum Napellus as in lists 1 and 2. pulpit, hepatica, spring beauty (Claytonia), trillium, ete.
Aconitum Lycoctonum: pale yellow wolf’s bane or monkshood, July to September. 45. Pinks. as edge of one of the small walks.
20. Mathiola Incana: dwarf Virginia stocks; (annual) fill in where space occurs around edges. 46. Primulas, large yellow, in masses down entire length of center walk.
Tagetes patula: French marigolds; (annual) fill where space occurs. 47. Lily-of-the-valley, in shade in front of shrubs.
BULBS 7 48. Peoni shady side of arbor next the lawn. Y
21, Small bulbs used for edgings where room can be found. 49. Tris as in other lists; also Queen Emma, pale gray with gold spot.
A. Snowdrops, March and April. . : y 50. Funkia lancifolia: blue day lily; July to September; shady border. _
B. crocus} Suelan Se clothe ofeeold eee striped brown, March. 51. Ferns next house in shade. Maidenhair, hay-scented, cinnamon and ostrich are the best.
C. Jonquils, bright yellow, fragrant, ay. 52. Foxgloves back of ferns.
i , blue and white. . 58 ace j e.
Soe Scilla eT Gtano eluehelt of England; drooping, bell-shaped; lavender, white oe HeHeyate aos shade
ink; stems; May-June. y 55
Fr. Scilth. autumnalls: autumn-squill, small starry rose flowers in clusters. July to Oct. 56. Larkspur, as accent at end of cross-walk.
22. Narcissus van Sion, double daffodil, May. ‘ BULBS
Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus: trumpet daffodils, May. 23. Tulips as on other lists. 57. Late tulips, not literally the old-fashioned varieties but the best soft colors:
24. Lilium candidum: madonna lily; white, late June or July. 25. Oleanders in tubs. Clara, Butt, Madame pvelage, Edmee, a
Moonlight, Primrose Beauty, Retroflexa, y bs
PLANTING LIST FOR THE PURITAN GARDEN Dream, “Crepuscule Rev. Tein lavender: oa
List No. 5 aust, La Tulipe Noire, dark maroon, etc., E,
On Plan 2. All except between lines A-A ae Osis EEE goreshe dea Dorgan ray Ales unger! arbor.
y 9. JNarcissus, large ye I Ww 4 et, 2 Ss.
Bee iin to overhang shady lawn back of house. aes as in other lists in front of grapes.
2. j 5 far corner of lot. ALS é ;
3. pombardy Bo Se eae TD ecouraat with fruit blossoms. cm Especially planed eects ey anit colors Edom scent ernie in large beds.
z . range marigolds, @ opriate 1 = K .
zea oan 62. Cosmos, tall ase of feathery Boy lose) aie arbor: Raat eevonttin
ra : a Id shade beds too much. 63. Shell pink annual asters; not on old lists but must be had for ing.
ra Petia) (oe ICR HGS NEE es ee them. 64. Love-in-a-Mist, delicate blue, with the pink asters. Seed in. é
7. Cherry near walk to grow tall and close in vista. 65. Bachelor's buttons, called corn-flower or blue bonnets; with the poppies. _ ve
8. Apricot; planted for flowers, for it may not fruit m cold climate. 66. Poppies, large double fringed white and pink. Also Shirley varieties; thin to 8”.
9. Apple, to overhang seat: 67. Annual Jarkspur, sky blue. as a
10. Quince, bush cuts off view of garden from service portion. 68. Rose pink zinnias, pull up all other colors. Not on oldest lists.
11. White ‘mulberry, near birdhouse. 69. Snapdragon, lemon color. .
12, Grapes: Salem and Catawba. red; Concord, blue; Niagara, white. 70. Stocks; soft pink, lavender. dark reddish purple, canary color.
13. Blackberries; shady side of fence, as they stand some shade. ais Calendulas, pale sulphur yellow.
nae PRU Re eat a entrance from garden. 17. Strawberries. 72. Tuchsias, rose geranium, small pink fairy lilies CZ So rem ess rosea) Agapanthus lily,
18. Corylus Americana: hazel-nut, near children’s plot. (blue), oleanders, azaleas, ete. Standing in pots on edge of lawn.

House & Garden’s

- af 7 Sal RIOT PH ‘|
= : . ;
;

A GLACIAL GOR GE” BO Cio Gla

Thirteen months before this photograph was taken the spot was a glacial morain—a bare field with

many fine boulders scattered about. With a nice discernment for the natural beauty of rocks

and water, the designer laid out this lily pond at one end and built up a cave of the winds where

the breezes blow dancing wraiths of myriad colored misty spray. Rock plants are tucked away be-

tween boulders. From this pool the channel leads to two others, accorded a similar treatment.

The garden is on the estate of George P. Mellick, Esq., at Plainfield, N. J. The landscape archi-
tect was C. W. Maredydd Harrison

BROOM mmON en Ga GTadiel ns

Clipped barberry
is used in the
garden above to
outline the
formal grass
walks, while
arborvitae,
sheared to per-
pendicular sides
and flat top,
forms an enclos-
ing wall. Mary
Rutherford Jay,
landscape archi-
tect

IN Gee Re) Ee Neeley: OnU) a
INS A Ree De lO) ab Wi Ore OR MeAVIE Re DIES GINS

Piel CIvIRG ue

w
“I

The round plan,
applied to a
smaller garden,
proves the
adaptability of
the circle in
garden design.
Here the paths
are accented by
being of gravel,
and the en-
tranmces are
marked by rose
arches. Paul R.
Allen, architect

It is difficult to
imagine that
these secluded
steps have not
been there since
the beginning of
time. The garden
is an accomplish
ment in the nex
school of land
scaping the
naturalistic

A NATURAL GARDEN IN
THE, HEART OR A Clix

VELA EB REIN CKE
6 GEIFFERT, Landscape

House & Garden’s

Covering an acre and a half
in the heart of Cleveland,
Ohio, is the garden of Francis
A. Drury. Everything was
brought there—trees, rocks,
and the hills and slopes made.
City water is used for the
pools

Aptly enough
this garden is
called “The
Oasis? eke
planting is so ar-
ranged that the
surrounding city
is completely
hidden and its
noises lost in the
transplanted
woodland
growth

Flowers are
planted around
the pools, giving
an enrichment of
color. Many of
the shrubs are
also flowering
types and the
garden lacks no
natural interest
of varied blos-
soms

Book of Gardens

THE GARDEN POSSIBILITIES

39

oa eline BACK VAR D

Exploding the Theory that Pleasant Vistas and a Wealth of Bloom Are Restricted to
the Broader Areas of Country Gardens—A Definite

HE city back yard is by no means the

hopeless, dreary horticultural desert that
one is led by pessimistic forecasts to believe.
Whatever hopelessness enshrouds it is usually
evolved from the attitude of mind of the owner
or occupant of the particular back yard under
consideration. If one takes the stand that the
position is untenable and that nothing can be
done, the probability is that nothing will be
done; but if on the contrary there is a deter-
mined effort to ‘‘start something” then some-
thing is going to happen, and that something
will doubtless bear results.

A city back yard is just so much land, just
as an equal piece of land elsewhere is but a
piece of land. The thing to do is to go to work
and see what can be done with it. To be sure,
the land is apt to be hard from lack of tilling,
and is probably lacking in fertility; but both
these objections can be overcome by thorough
digging in the one case and the application of
fertilizers—preferably well rotted barnyard
manure—in the other.

Just what is to be undertaken in reclaiming
a neglected back yard will depend entirely upon
the tenure of occupancy. If the residence is a
permanent home, then the yard may be laid out
into walks, a bit of lawn, flower borders and
shrubbery; for even a two-by-four-rod lot will
afford room for a generous planting and such
garden accessories as one may desire. But if

the home is merely temporary, then not much

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in the way of permanent improvements will be
undertaken; yet the yard may be made charm-
ing by the use of bedding plants, annual flowers
and vines sensibly arranged.

The first thing to undertake will be a thor-
ough cleaning up of the ground, removing
everything that is not actually necessary and
making the ground as smooth and presentable
as possible. The next thing in order will be
hiding the division fences and any outbuild-
ings that exist with vines or tall growing an-
nuals. Narrow beds dug along the fences on
either side may be planted with vines of quick
growth, and such summer bedding plants and
tall annuals as cannas, cosmos, ricinus, and the
like may be used to mask the rear fence. These
are all plants which may be started in the house
from roots and seeds and planted out when the
weather is suitable.

Usually it is preferable to leave the center
of the lot open, seeding down the ground to
grass for a bit of lawn; but this is hardly prac-
ticable in the temporary home. As a bare ex-
panse of earth is anything but attractive, it will
be better to put this part of the lot into flower
beds, using low growing annuals or bedding
plants and leaving broad walks around this
miniature garden. This with the border be-
neath the fences will cover the lot so that only
the paths remain, and if these can be covered
with sand or gravel or even sifted coal ashes
the result will be entirely satisfactory.

RS)
vA
alin Ai

(A) Summerhouse or pergola; (B) lily or lotus pool; (C)

seats with lattice backs and hoods; (D) tall shrubs; (E)

ornamental trees: (F) low shrubs or tall perennials; (G)

vines; (H) low perennials, annuals or bedding plants; (K)
sun dial; (M) stepping stones

Planting Plan

An even better arrangement than the vines
growing up the fences would be the erection of
boxes on top of the fences filled with trailing
vines, such as nasturtiums or other gay-flower-
ing vines. ‘The boxes may contain upright
plants as well—just the sort of planting that
one makes in porch or window boxes, only on
a somewhat larger scale. The expense for this
sort of work need not be great, as rough wooden
boxes will answer quite as well as more costly
ones. The long boxes in which curtain poles
are sometimes shipped are just the right thing
and can be purchased for about twenty-five
cents each at the dry goods or furniture stores.
They need only filling with good soil to be
ready for the reception of such plants as one
may elect to use. If the fence has a flat board
on top, the boxes may be set directly on it, but
if no top rail is present the boxes are easily
adjusted by means of wooden brackets attached
to the fence posts.

Where the boxes are adopted instead of
planting vines at the foot of the fence, then
scarlet salvia, white feverfew, camphor gerani-
ums, nicotiana, asters, stocks and the like may
lift their bright heads from the ground to meet
the down trailing vines. Petunias, verbenas,
sweet alyssum and ageratum may be used as an
edging, and the whole will furnish a wealth of
bloom from early summer to frost.

Taller growing annuals may be banked about
the base of the house and the rear entrance
steps. Erect a trellis of wire above the entrance
and cover this with Japanese morning glories,
Cobea scandens, passion vines and similar free
blooming vines. On top of the balustrade and
in all the rear windows place boxes of bright
flowers. If a continuous succession of boxes
along the entire fence seems too great an under-
taking, they may be separated by a few feet
and the spaces between filled with some not
too rank growing vine planted beneath the
fence; or a tall growing plant may be utilized
to fill the opening and relieve the monotony of
a too level planting beneath. Then if one is
faithful with the watering hose, zealous in
training the growth of vines and plants, and
will gather flowers before they fade and keep
the plants free from insect pests, there will be
no call to despise the city back yard.

The permanent back yard, however, should
have as its chief charm a stretch of velvety
green sod, well trimmed and shaved, and the
flowers should be merely the framework and
adornment of its beauty. A broad cement or
graveled path, or one with stepping stones down
its center, broadening midway of its length into
a circle enclosing an artificial pool for lilies
and goldfish and with garden seats at each side,
may be the chief feature of this part of the
yard. Mass planting of tall growing peren-
nials and shrubs may serve as a screen for an
enclosing fence or undesirable view. Taller
shrubs and ornamental trees may close the vista
in the rear, and a little tea house or pergola
makes a shady retreat at the end of the path.
Stepping stones give a quaint and old-time
flavor to a garden, but they must be set low
enough to allow the lawn mower to pass freely
over them. Walks of red brick, especially
where the enclosing walls are of brick, are
charming. Seats of red cement may be used
with them, or wooden ones painted green.

40 . :
IIouse & Garden’s

A Cg Tw
backyard, @ spac ae | 7 * 3 BA GK
eke A? Ce t a: yA RD

ae GARDEN

first stort of th ¢ 2
L inding build ; a : ; RUTH DEAN
, Landscape

sy ee , D> 2 * a : ; Wes Architect

The

mad €

Behind the hot “iS oe
CITES € house } : \ A wall at the rear
: end of the garden
-onceals the origi-
covered with trel- m2 nce us:
pre is nes nal fence. This is
a iy f 7 ¢ Re, , ‘ “ relieved by a niche
shady seat F oh . a : E e
arin ry Z ; a : < in which stands an
ti and u La , ; a
- ue whe 5 32 , English lead fig-
grape climb the $e, St os he y
trellis and wy is in . ” . rie Basha
LL AE dy. Chinese privet,and
the window box tenn -
Onpuieaae aan the trees are ailan-
ms is we thus, ‘‘tree of
( , 3
IL Heaven

a space about 8'
wide is paved and

Book of Gardens

hy
a

*

<

Seated in this pergola one gets

a vista of the long shrubbery

border to the north, the grass
walk and balustrades

The CITY GARDEN
Oj GateVAN SLY CK

at

ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA

Behind the house the land slopes away
leaving a bank on either side. The garden
limits are marked by a long white baluster,
giving space for a drive on one side, and
below it, a grass walk with a massed plant-
ing of hollyhocks, climbing roses, dahlias,
gladioli and other border plants against the
wall

The view from the house shows the dispo-
sition of the beds. At regular intervals
evergreen specimens are used for accent ~
points. Bluestone paths wind in and out
between the beds to the stretch of lawn
beyond. The grassed terrace in the fore-
ground serves for an outdoor dining room
in pleasant weather

eee S.” ae oR et pi RS Ace RE ENGMeime ary eh wane Fae es BEN RAN Ee as, Se as SEN

Garden’s

&

House

ARDEN

G

BO sR eV BURY

PO© i

A

es on its rim

there to bathe and sun themsel

ound

of} water

garden

VOICE

and the

ummer,

Lid

\

and at

sky

the

will mirror

long it

All day

and

trickle

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Su Ses
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Sedo
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landscape architect

Shipman,

Ellen

Mrs

will come

Birds

shallows

dim

Book of Gardens

43

AMERICAN SCULPTURE FOR AMERICAN GARDENS

An Infant Art That 1s Worth Fostering

F sculpture is to be really acclimated in our
American gardens it must be indigenous, of
a kind that the average citizen can understand.
It must be made to look at home in the aver-
age American place. It must be treated, not
as an outstanding object of art dominating
everything in sight, but as symbolizing the
spirit of the place, of the flowers and leafage,
an integral part of the picture. Such statuary
will not be too conspicuous, and is more likely
to be of bronze or lead than of marble. It will
be more difficult to set especially where the
composition is entirely informal, if there are
no places contrived for sculpture to fill. Stat-
uary in such surroundings is apt to look as
though it had strayed in by mistake or had been
casually dropped, as it does in most of our
parks.

The important fact underlying this problem
of finding the right place, whether in an archi-
tectural garden or a commuter’s yard, is that
the setting ought to be designed as well as the
statue. It is not sufficient to give thought to
the sculpture; it is necessary to give serious
thought to the place where it is to go. If
there is no fit and proper place for it, no niche
in which it will naturally belong, no scene of
inevitable fitness, one must be made. ‘The
statue should seem as much at home as a dryad
stepping out of the tree in which she lived, or
the spirit of the cave or the waterfall.

When the question of putting statuary in a
small place arises, the first consideration
should be, not “Is it good sculpture in itself,
that I happen to like for its own sake?’ but,
“Ts it the kind that harmonizes with its sur-
roundings? Is there any kind of sympathy,
obvious or subtle, between the sculptor’s
thought and the lives and loves and aspirations
of those who live with it, or is it as remote from
them as the Group of the Laocoon?”

Or to put the same idea in a different way,
“Was the sculptor thinking of an American

“A Girl Aquaplaning,” by Rena Tucker
Kohlman, shows the freedom of interpre-
tation characteristic of our American gar-
den sculpture. It stands 20” high and is
intended for a basin fountain or a small
garden pool where the water could be ar-
ranged to spray against the figure. Cour-
tesy of the Milch Galleries

A fountain, by Mrs
Harry Payne Whit-
ney, designed for an
American garden.
Courtesy of the
Whitney Studio. The
text in this article is
prepared by Harold
A. Caparn, land-
scape architect

In the cieft of a rock garden you discover
a young Pan piping away. The gray stones
are immediately animated and the rock
plants vitalized. This figure by Janet Scud-
der is in the Rockefeller gardens at Po-
cantico Hills and shows the proper placing
for such work—secluded and surprising as
you come upon it

44

vard with trees, bushes,
grass ind flowers, or was

he trying mer ly to « xpress
in human shape his sense
of beauty, or strength or
speed Was he t ying to
personify some abstract
idea. or to make a figur

which would emphasize

and vivity the lines
some building

It is fortunate that
many sculptors a
work in the spirit of the
ancients 1n so
are trving to express the
sentiment of their times,
the ideas with which the
are most familiar As a
consequence, instead ol
making fauns or Miner
modeling

vas, they ar
modern men, women and

“Girl and Fish,” a garden fig-
ure of happy interpretation,
could find a place in a garden
pool sprayed as a fountain
base or in a stream of rushing
water. Harriet Whitney Frish
muth, sculptor Courtesy of
Gorham Gallery

House @& Garden’s

children with such poetic
atmosphere as they are
able to give them. Many
fountains, sundials and
other garden objects are
designed with the human
motive by artists honestly
trying to find the true and
harmonious note. We have
Yankee boy Ss). children,
dogs, rabbits, frogs, birds
and so on in sculpture. It
looks as though in time
our garden sculptors would
build up a mythology of

their own invention.
y

Silhouetted against the sky
and surmounting the garden
pool stands young Diana, a
clear-cut gem of garden statu-
ary. It is by Janet Scudder
and is in the garden of J. L.
Severance, Cleveland, Ohio

The sundial offers a wide and
varied field of interpretation.
This figure, “The Fruit Bear-
er,” by Edward McCartan, has
found a sunny spot in the gar-
den of Mrs. Harold I. Pratt,
at Glen Cove, L. I. Courtesy
of Gorham Gallery

These figures—Morning, Noon
and Night—support the table
of this sundial in the garden
of John Long Severance,
Cleveland, Ohio. Harriet
Whitney Frishmuth was the
sculptor. Courtesy of Gor-
ham Gallery

Book of Gardens 45

THREE GARDEN HOUSES The Rustic

C Designed by Jack Manley OSC
teri Be eS

UMMC)! S{OUSC

Select a shady spot in some hill-
side orchard for the rustic summer
house. Build a platform of rough
boards, and fence it in with a rail-
ing of rough-cut timber. At one
side make a square, peak-roofed
shelter or lean-to out of slabs and
rough posts. On festive occasions
lanterns can be strung about this
platform

l I Al
MMT ACT \
i ‘ ti whiten ;

e Colonial
agabo

The gazabo is an old fashioned gar-
den adornment. It usually marked,
as shown on the plan, the crossing
of the garden axes. Formal beds,
bordered with box, were on all sides.
Here stood the octagonal building
with lattice walls and open doorways
and a curved roof capped by a
weathervane. A gazabo adds dignity
to the garden scheme

The ©nglish | ie th ar
Tea Fouse eg , ee
ue ciel Cs

AAA
An English tea house—or per- naa

haps some would choose to
call it Italian—is built against
the garden wall. A roof of
slaie, with wide projecting
eaves; a colonnade facade with
arched openings, and in the
shadows along bench. Cedars
in pots stand on either side.
A bird basin marks the middle
arch, and a pool is in front

MAUI eeeeerenrremcer ee
ft

HUA Mune ftw

46

That stream is the most charming
along whose banks one can wander
at will, and that pool the most en-
ticing which offers the same oppor-
tunity for close companionship with
water. The stone margins are allur-
ing pathways between the iris rc
here in the Borden garden, where
because of the flowing current
through the pool the planting is of
flowers with sheath-like foliage

US

House & Garden’

The courtyard pool can transform an uninteresting flagged floor into a place of beauty and unique
charm. Simplicity of treatment should be maintained throughout—even the rim oj the pool needs
no elaboration. In the pool can be planted water-lilies, rushes and cyperus, as here at the home of
Mr. and Mrs. Gordon K. Ball, Katonah, N. Y. These will lend variety of color, form and size.
Openings here and there among the flags can be filled with hardy foliage plants, or small flowering
ones such as dwarf phlox. The background as well as the pool should be carefully planned. Heavy
massing of foliage is needed there to carry the sturdiness of the court itself. Flowering shrubs
are used in this case, with climbing vines behind them. Marian C. Coffin, Landscape Architect

J

Book of Gardens

TAA

Ldn lddddeccum

SANA

47

The formal pool invariably calls for a formal setting. Here the wide concrete coping

moO © 1, SS

re.©

forms an integral and important part of the design

Meh R Ook.

EE S

Will Supply that Water Feature Which, Provided
It Isin Keeping, Will Add to the Beauty of Any Place

s¢ A ND when you have left the desert, and
come again to the fresh green of the
river valleys, the last thing to which you grow
accustomed is the sound of running water.”
The last thing and, it might be added, the
most welcome and soothing and wholly refresh-
ing thing. In the glaring heat of the cactus
country one misses keenly the softening effect
of water in the landscape. By day, at least, the
desert lacks intimacy, and when the reason is
analyzed it is found to lie largely

and the naturalistic. The first may take one of
several forms, such as the fountain basin pure
and simple; the lily pool of regular contour,
round, oval or rectangular, placed usually at
the intersection of the garden axes; and the
geometrically accurate pool whose primary pur-
pose as a mirror of the surrounding trees and
architectural features is served without the use
of any water plants.

It is not the purpose here to take up in any

detail the subject of garden fountains and their
accessories, as these fully deserve an article all
to themselves. Today one can find in the open
market all manner of fountain designs espe-
cially executed for garden use, and the only
confronting problem is the selection of that one
of them which will harmonize best with the
planting scheme in general, and the exact loca-
tion in particular.

All of these fountains, of course, have one
point in common: they call for a

in the absence of flowing streams.
For whether in Nature’s gardens or
in our own small imitations of her
handiwork, water as a purely es-
thetic feature fills a place which no
other one element can hope to
attain.

There is no need here to dwell
upon this humanizing influence of
water in our gardens—our interest
is centered rather on how it can be
brought to serve our needs. The
running brook admits of the great-
est variety of effects, perhaps, but
for comparatively few of our gar-
dens is it available. Most of us
must of necessity turn to the vari-
ous forms of pools and pond-like
water gardens. In the planning,

source of supply which has enough
force to cause the water to flow
from the opening provided for it.
Provision must also be made to
carry off the surplus water when
the fountain is in operation. In
some cases this overflow can be
utilized to form a little rill which
wanders away through the garden,
fringed with ferns and cardinal
flowers in the shady spots and in
the sunlight bright with the blue of
forget-me-nots catching the color of
the sky. Or it may be led to a bird
pool in some secluded corner.

In the great majority of pools
some provision must be made for
replenishing or changing the water,
usually by simple inlet and outlet

making and care of these are cer-
tain well-ordered rules.

Broadly speaking, there are two
kinds of water features: the formal

A cross-section of the concrete-lined pool shows the sloping
arrangement of the soil and the partitions to hold it in place

pipes, as suggested above. Much
can be done to keep the water free
from mosquito larve by introduc-
ing a few goldfish.

’ ;

48 House & Garden’s

LANDSCAPE" PLANS for they Shi eae ee eee

Good Planting Effects Do Not Necessarily Entail Large Expenditures, as
These Two Schemes Serve to Demonstrate *

LANNING, building and framing a

home may be likened to creating, in a
small way, a new heaven and a new earth.
Especially is this the case with respect to the
garden, the magic circle about the home.

Many an owner who has spared no expense
on the house itself snaps the bands of his
pocketbook at the mere mention of beautify-
ing the lot; yet the setting should be worthy
the jewel. He is not stingy; he is simply
unaware of the latent possibilities with which
his plot of ground teems; that the initial out-
lay will return in enjoyment a larger dividend
than that derivable from a like amount ven-
tured commercially. It is not so much a

with a board along the bottom. It is entirely
screened by vines. In front of it are a num-
ber of Lombardy poplars which help to
secure privacy until such time as the shrubs
attain the height of the fence.

For these shrubs, in the spring, there is the
vivid yellow of forsythia, flowering cherry and
crab, choice hybrid lilacs, deutzia and peonies,
fragrant mock orange and lemon lily. In
summer are roses, tal] white daisies, a maple
for shade, and a plum tree for fruit. In the
train of autumn come the snowberry, high
bush cranberry, scarlet thorn, and red hips
of the Japanese rose. There is also the vivid
red foliage of Japanese barberry, sumac and

matter of money as of intelligent and well- {; ahi Virginia creeper; the rich bronze of Viburnum
= = me H 5 =
directed effort. 5 oN tomentosum, and the white flowering mass of

Clematis paniculata. With winter come the
fruits of the barberry and thorn, the orange-
scarlet of the bittersweet and the green of
the evonymus. The latter also relieves the
barrenness of the north side of the house. ;
Here a hedge of unclipped Regel’s privet
separates the driveway from the adjoining lot.
The front of the house looks particularly f
well in winter. Here are some arborvitae,
and an edging of prostrate juniper. Against j
this green background in spring, the saffron ;
of the crocus, the forsythia and daffodils, ,
with a few porcelain blue hyacinths, look
radiantly gay. This effect is succeeded by a
combination of white Spiraea Van Houtteii,
yellow iris, and lavender Darwin tulips.
During midsummer it remains a restful green, ;
to be enlivened in the autumn by the gold
and white of Japanese anemones.
The flower border at the side of the porch
is made up of forget-me-nots, English
daisies, and early pink tulips, followed

Two problems are presented in this article, B
which in each case represent actual conditions. [|
The ideal manner of procedure is to plan E

:
3
{

Dining
Room

the house and grounds simultaneously. But
the usual way is to purchase a lot, build a
house on it and let the grounds take care of
themselves.

In plan No. 1 is a house on a lot 60’ by
120’, and typical of the suburbs of a large
city. As the house is placed, the garage,
driveway and service entrance face the north. |}
The obviously best arrangement is a simple i
lawn at the rear which will serve as play
space for the children, drying yard upon oc- : )
casion, or a flower garden if desired.

Since expense must be considered, all but
the roughest work in making a garden should
be done by the owners themselves. Here let | 5
me emphasize the importance of thorough soil
preparation: Remove all gravelly subsoil to
a depth of 8” for grass, 18” for shrubs,
and 2’ for flowers. Indeed, the entire

Conia
Door

LIBRARY

area should be prepared—rather than by pink peonies and spirea, iris of violet
holes dug for each individual plant— ) IS G) and purple and lavender-blue, and
os ee 2 : ) 2 : ; ; 5

by filling in with good loam with which ieee 10 7S orT May-flowering tulips of pink and prim-

is incorporated one-fourth its bulk of aera rose. In June, early pink phlox l’Even-
. ! -

well-rotted manure. It is a waste of ement contrasts with the larkspur.
money and effort to put plants into Pll Mosds. fom EGO a L2O Role Bin tounien. Hone Grapes shade the porch in late summer :
- ‘an No. 1 is for alo x he type generally found in su an ° y
poorly prepared soil. s WiGeulitiess MTiNe, scheme fossa ten elo ppieniaanarcratn etcraleiarenent and in the border are purple and gold .
The back fence 1S constructed of 6 of the property on page 49 was designed by Elizabeth Leonard Strang, helenium, pink Japanese anemones, i
by 6” posts strung with woven wire, and landscape architect, who also contributes the text and yellow button chrysanthemum. .
]

PAINT ENG alse OMe oleae NINO mens!

Sao

EVERGREENS sian lilac, 1 plant, 244’-3%’ high. ; Clara Butt, salmon pink, 25 bulbs.

INDEX 19. Berberis Thunbergii, Japanese barberry. Red color in ‘aus PERENNIALS (Spring)
1. Thuya occidentalis, American arborvite. I plant, 3'-3%4’. syn and berries lasting until spring. 10 plants, 1%4’- 39. Myosotis alpestris, Blue forget-me-not. 15 plants, 8” apart.
3 = phx} x in hlita 2 i . ic ates Di i 5
2. Ti ua pron ont alte Ter nto ae Treat Com 20. Symphoricarpos racemosus, snowberry. Small shrub, good 40. Hevise! ner ene eg an daisy. Pink and white. Ls
3. Thuya occidentalis var, blobosa, Globe arborvite. 2 plants green-white fruit in autumn. 3 plants, 2’-3’ high. 41. Iris Germanica, German iris, 12” apart. (A) Johan De-
12” high. : 3 5 , 21. Ligustrum Ibota, var. Regelianum, Regel’s privet. A grace- - ite’ eatandandaievinlee falls purple “10 plants; (B)
4. Juniperus horizontalis, dwarf juniper. 10 plants, 134’-2’ ful unclipped hedge, 2’ apart. 50 plants, 18”-24”. Darius, ) standards) yellow; falls lilac, LOlplantacatG)
DECIDUOUS TREES ere FES, SIS SO OEIC COL, I, SEMIN Pallida dalmatica, large porcelain blue flower, 10 plants
5. Acer platanoides, Norway maple. 3 plants, 8’-10’ high. 23. OSNF RT OMNN LORS ayilta PapaTieae ey AES cedlerruite 42. Spiraea Chinensis, pink herbaceous spirea. 5 plants, 18”

5. Populus nigra yar. Italica, Lombardy poplar. Screen to apart.
be removed as shrubs grow. 7 plants, 9’-11’ high

Plum tree (or other fruit), var. Abundance. Large amber
fruit. 1 plant, 4’-5’ high.

3

in autumn. 4 plants, 146’-2’ high.
24. Deutzia Lemoinei, hybrid deutzia. Smaller Hits panes ag) Bepny EP teat eat e| a Aieiaeent
Boots wii Leg UC e TOUGH BADNW elias LDL aia ue flecked crimson; (B) Areos, single rose pink, 3 plants;

es aes

"INES
8. Prunus Japonica florepleno, double rose-flowered cherry. F VINES (C) Albiflora, white single, golden stamens, 4 plants.
1 plant, 3’-4’ high. 25. Evonymus radicans, climbing evergreen evyonymus. 14 44. Hemerocallis flava, early lemon lily. Blooms with mock
9. Malus floribunda, flowering crab. Carmine buds opening plants, 3 years old. 5 orange. 10 plants, 15” apart.
to white, single. 1 plant, 3’-4’ high. 26. Ampelopsis Veitchii, Boston ivy. 2 plants, 3 years old. 45. Delphinium, Gold Medal hybrids, larkspur, in tones of
10. Crataegus coccinea, native searlet thorn. Red fruit in 27. Ampelopsis quinquefolia, Virginia creeper. Vivid autumn blue. 10 plants, 18” apart.
autumn. 1 plant, 3’-4’ high. red, 2 plants, 3 years old. - 46. Fhlox varieties. 15” apart. (A) L’Evenement early
28. Actinidia arguta, silver vine. Dark green foliage, very pink, with the larkspur, 5 plants; (B) Elizabeth ¥
DECIDUOUS SHRUBS ; dense, 2 plants, 3 years old. _ Campbell, salmon overlaid pink, 10 plants; (C) Jeanne
11. Viburnum opulus, high bush cranberry. White flowers, 29. Aristolochia Sipho, Dutchman’s pipe. Immense green d’Are, late-flowering, pure white. ie
large red fruit autumn and winter. 4 plants, 3°-4’. leaves, heavy growth, 2 plants, 2 years old. F 47. Chrysanthemum uliginosum, Giant daisy. Individual flowers .
12. Viburnum tomentosum, Japanese snowball. Dark bronze in 30. Garou soanene bittersweet one and orange winter like Shasta daisy, in tall clusters. 5 plants, 18” apart. \
autumn protect in exposed situations 3 plants, 2’-37. = its. 4 Le vee 6
13. Rhus glabra, sumac. Vivid autumn red. 4 plants, 2°-3". 31. Clematis paniculata, Japanese Virgin's bower. Mantle of LBP OSINEL IES (CNTY) ow A
14. Philadelphus coronarius, fragrant mock orange W small white flowers in autumn. 1 plant 2 years old. 48. Anemone Japonica, Japanese anemone, 12” apart. (A)
flowers in June. 4 plants, 3’-4’ high 32. Lonicera Halliana, Hall’s evergreen honeysuckle. Fragrant White, 15 plants; (B) Pink, 30 plants.
15. Forsythia Fortuneii, Golden bell. 2 plants, 3’-4’ high. flowers, practically evergreen. 2 plants, 3 years old. 49, Aster Novae-Angliae, royal purple New England aster.
16, Evonymus alata, corky-barked evonymus. Vivid autumn 33. Grapes: Catawba, small red, very sweet; Salem, large red. Tall, vigorous. 10 plants, ye yee i
red, pendant pink fruits. 3 plants, 4’-5’ high. 2 plants 3 years old. s 50. Helenium autumnale, eee a0 a Bo De alee the) most
17. Spiroea Van Houteii, Van Houtte’s spires. White mass, BULBS (Spring) _ glorious “autumn ye! We 4 nn De a apart. eae
forms good background for Darwin tulips or iris. 3 34. Crocus, Mammoth Golden Yellow. 50 bulbs. OS By ts ee soa LED IAI TNE
plants, 2%4'-3%" high. 35. Hyacinth, porcelain blue. 6 bulbs. MED pare
18. Syringa vulgaris, lilac, (A) Souvenir de Louis Spaethe, 1 36. Narcissus, large yellow trumpet, mixed. 100 bulbs. " ANNUALS °
plant, 2’-3’ high; (B) President Grevy, bluish lilac, 37. Early tulips, Cottage Maid, pink. 75 bulbs. 52. Cosmos. Early pink and white. 6 plants, 2’ apart.
1 plant, 2’-3’ high; (C) Marie le Graye, large single 38. Darwin tulips. (A) Reverend Ewbank, lavender, 18 bulbs; 53. Calendulas. Sulphur yellow. 12 plants, 12” apart.
white, 1 plant, 2’-3’ high; (D) Syringa Persica, Per- (B) Moonlight, luminous yellow globes, 25 bulbs; (C) 54, Ageratum. Light blue. 24 plants, 8” apart.

Boo

Plan No. 2 is
adaptable to almost
lot

any
plan.
drops
away
afford

portunity
garage and billiard

room
ment.
dows

gets the effect of a
sunken garden, its
square,

shape

belong to the Eng-
lish style of brick

house.

are of grass; the

hedge
privet

simple home-made
ones of wood; the

bird

center

pedestal of brick

with
crete

circular seat at the
end may be con-
structed at home of

brick

b OF Gereeps

S5ofT
=

10 Ss he] 10.
Perec —- —_ oe

SCALE IN FELT =

or house
The land
abruptly

49

Elizabethan gar-
dens, the beds

should be a mass
of color from earli-
est spring until
late fall.

In spring the

at the back,
ing an op-
for a

in the base-
From win-
above, one

formal
seeming to
The walks
of clipped
; the benches
basin in the
a square

shallow
basin.

con-

The

and concrete, or one of the better type

of white wood garden seats arched with an

arbor

of wrought iron and netting.

The garden is joined to the house by un-

clippe

d overhanging branches of privet. Since

the living room windows are so far above, there
can be no entrance from the house on the main
axis, but a flight of stairs from the main floor

leads

down to a garden door.

Within the garden, a walk separates the
beds from the hedge, planned thus from the
purely utilitarian purpose of keeping its roots

A '
Se
aicis i

0}

a

hemlock, red maple
blossoms, tender
green of the larch,
misty yellow of the
spice bush, scarlet
Japanese quince
and snowy ame-
lanchier —_ outside
the hedge, bid a
fair morning to the
narcissus, early
tulips, grape hya-
cinths and arabis
within.

T he procession
never halts. Pres-
ently come white
lilacs, flowering
crab, wistaria, the
whole splashed by
the delicate tints of
the Darwin tulips.
Here are iris, col-
umbine, lilac-blue
Phlox divaricata;
Sweet William, foxglove and peonies; helenium
and light blue asters; and last the showy yellow
chrysanthemums.

Across the front of the house dwarf ever-
greens and vines are used sparingly, because,
owing to the low foundation, too much plant-
ing would ruin the effect. The lawn in front
is framed by an apple tree, two specimens of
Cercidiphyllum, white fringe, spirea, forsythia
and barberry. 5

Two buckthorns meet over the service walk,
and a tall hedge of unclipped privet success-

from robbing the flowers. Like the pictured fully conceals the drying yard at the side.
ua |
PIL AIN TIS IL WS I OUR. PIL AIN) IN@. 2 |
EVERGREENS 22% pried Ap Houttei, Van Houtte’s spirea. 9 plants, 2’-3’ PERENNIALS (Spring)
INDEX high, apart. 7 av aps
1. Tsuga canadensis, American hemlock. 1 plant, 4’-444’ 23. Ev 1 Ra eee & fae ER? 43. Arabis alpina, white rock cress. 40 plants, 12” apart.
high. Se eee aaa CURSE CE CIEE ae 44. Alyssum saratile, Golden tuft. Vivid yellow for accents.
2. Lasiz Europaea, European larch. 1 plant, 5’-6’ high. ye a ae , on Pp TE re Laghaeae 8 plants. Bea uty
i: ; F 5 24. Philadelphus grandiflorus. he tallest variety 5a is llida, rge porcelain blue iris. 0 plants, 12
3. ci ora ae Val Mughus, Mugho pine, dwarf. 6 plants, orange. 4 plants, 3/4’ high, 4’ apart. 45 iris pgilide large p S.
4. Leucothoe Catesbei, lily-of-the-valley shrub. Broad leaved 25. Syringa vulgaris, var. alba, common white lilac. Grows 46. Dicksonia punctiloba, hay-scented fern. Sun or shade.
evergreen, small white flowers. 2 plants, 1’-144’ high. taller than the purple. 8 plants, 2’-3’ high, 4’ apart. 18 plants, 12” apart.
26. Ribes e flowering currant. arly, intensely fragrant 47. Aquilegia hybrids, hybrid columbines. Pink and cream.
DECIDUOUS TREES CEH ae ys pan ae 20 plants, 12” apart. a
2 ay 7 7 villi arge, fragrant,
5. Acer saccharum, sugar maple. Larger than Norway maple. 27. Rosa rugosa, var. Blanche de Coubert, double white Japa- 48. Ate iv aieeal cs Te SE Walia: arge, frag
9 plants, 8’-10’ high. nese rose. 20 plants 1%4’-2’ high, 2’ apart. 11ac: : D poe
6. Acer rubrum, red maple. 1 plant, 6’-8’ high. 28. Berberis Thunbergii, papas POSTERS Unclipped in PERENNIALS (Summer)
7. Apple. 1 plant, 5’-6’ high. _ Alternative choice: Northern masses. 17 plants, fy! — high, 2’ apart. ' ; i . eet
STS, red winter variety; Rhode Island Greening, large 49. Heuchera sanguinea, coral bells. Sma lecee Howersigon
winter variety; Fameuse or snow apple, handsome red VINES slender red hems ebicom all summer, leaves everg b
autumn variety. Pe a » 2 : : 4 a,
2 "5" hi yford’s Early, yellow 29. Evonumus radicans, climbing evergreen evonymus. Clings 50. Digitalis glorinoeflora, foxgloves. Mixed carmine pink and
& fae roeasinn Pare Ebert” Te aera ene to brick. 8 plants, 3 years old. white. 55 plants, 12” apart.
: 75 arn i . S izofr i imbi v ings 5 i vhite 4 Villiam. Take up after
9 . 2 plants, 4’-5’ high. Black Tartarian ox-heart; 30. Schizofragma huydrangeoides, climbing hydrangea. Clings 51. Dianthus barbatus, white Sweet William, c afte!
‘ aration Suanishe ot z to brick and stone. 6 plants, 2 years old. picomane) and replace with pink verbenas. 80 plants,
5 i anh apart.
10. Quince, Champion. Large yellow. 1 plant, 4’-5’ high. 31. Ampelopsis heterophylla, turquoise vine. Exquisite blue =f Be hic ? ¥ XO, CART
11. Cercidiphyllum japonicum, handsome specimen URES, | GES ang purple berries, grape-like leaf. 3 plants, 2 years 52. Pacer aver bh a Double rose,
rong pimeath Sooo ae eneE VONUES ies uaa nes es emir) 4 ni ant. 53. Papaver orientale, red Oriental poppy. 25 plants, 15”
Hee doubl k fil 2 b 32. Ampelopsis Veitchii, Boston ivy. 8 plants, 2 years old. apart.
2 is Vv ii ink yering crab, Wier Tie ‘ Le
NP talus Tenensis Var. Fee ae high, pe ow g 33. Lonicera Halliana, Hall’s honeysuckle. 2 plants, 3 years 54. NEP BLE WEST ra eae So ARE leaves, excel-
ere : ‘ : old. lent for edging. 15 plants, 12 art.
13. Malus Scheideckert, double flowering crab, shapely habit, i AA aa pate .
“rose color. 1 plant 3/-4” high. 34. Climbing rose, Silver Moon. Large single white. 8 plants, 55. Delphinium hybrids, ae 32 Plants, zh ee 5
i E 216'-3%6" hi ” pot. 56. Oenothera Missouriensis, Missouri primrose. Large solitary
14. Rhamnus cathartica. 2 plants, 24’-3%’ high. Be a EE yellow flowers useful as accents. 6 plants, 12 apart.
DECIDUOUS SHRUBS o. pee old, 8’ apart. 57. ee UU Havender day ut: Late, blooms in
Arn 5 eptember. 5 Sy 2 0
15. Amelanchier canadensis, shad bush. Very early white 36. Wistaria Chinensis, purple wistaria. 2-plants, 4 years old. “a. MGC Ghai Gini, olny Ghia, JIS al
powers pwedib ley rruitiin June eaten by birds. 5 plants, 37. Celastrus scandens, bittersweet. 2 plants, 2 years old. summer. 12 plants, 18” apart. a
oe Boe aoe 59. Iris Kaempferi, Japanese iris. Lavender. 25 plants, 12”
16. Benzoin aestivale, spice bush: Very early yellow flowers. BULBS (Spring) 2 ee narts pf
3 plants, 2’-3’ high, apart. He = sa ,
z 7 4 “Sd “ $s . Phiox varieties. 15” apart. (A) Jeanne d’Arc, late pure
17. Forsythia intermedia, golden bell. 10 plants, 3’-4’ high. 38. Crocus Mammoth Golden Yellow. Among evergreens across 60 Mon AY Sues (Gr, © SIGS, Gee coe AC
3” apart. front of house. 200 bulbs. ‘ 20 plants; (C) F. G. von Lassburg, large white, 10
18. Chionanthus Virginica, white fringe. Flowers in May, foli- 39. Muscari botryoides, blue grape hyacinth. In flower gar- plants.
age good. 1 plant, 2’-3’ high. den at foot of hedge. 200 bulbs. SC TATCUT(Aat ;
19. Ligustrum Ibota, hardy Japanese privet. Unclipped, 26 40. Narcissus Sir Watkin, large yellow trumpet. 100 bulbs. PERENNIA (Autumn
plants, eel, high, 2 apart; clipped for hedge, 54 41. Early tulips. (A) Duke of Albany, very early pink, 50 G1. Helenium autumnale, yellow sneezeweed. 12 plants, 12”
plants, 2’-3" high, 2” apart. bulbs around circle back of prabls and inenetal (By Aaa
i) i y. 4 plants, 37-4’ Princess Wilhelmina, deeper pink, ulbs aroun J 3 s oe 2
20. VPOueDE a high bush cranberry DONE, peonies; (C) Goldfinch, pure yellow, 50 bulbs near 62. Aster! Weltham! Blue. papell Nei, SEO masses porce
a pee < ink Japanese iris. u E a ocr :
21. Cydonia japonica, Japan quince. Select some of the pink \ z ain s Aaa ee ey S, PRCGRAE CES TO GtOe
hybrids if scarlet is not desired. 4 plants, 2’-3’ hg, 42. Darwin tulips. Selected varieties of lavender, rose and 63. Hardy RS FU Eee hp eee iety ile -

3’ apart.

pink. 100 bulbs near outer corners of beds.

yiyid yellow.

House & Garden’s

50

HOW
DO YOU, ENTER
YOUR GARDEN?

Six Suggestions for

Garden Gates

The garden gate of wide
wooden planks can be

If the garden is walled,

the gate can be of solid P <4
planks bolted together, x es a * elaborated with wrought
which will be in keeping & » iron strap hinges in char-
with the rugged character ; “ a # acter with the architectural

\ design of the wall and the

of the brick wall. John

Russell Pope, architect decorations upon it

(Left) A simple gate of
distinguished design is
arched with a_ pergola
treatment set on high posts
from which the gates are
hung. Courtesy of the
Matthews Mfg. Co.

(Below) Set between brick

posts is a rounded arch

wooden gate with open,

decorative panels on each

ide. The Colonial char-

acter is in keeping with
the posts

A wrought iron gate affords a
glimpse of the garden beyond
Its design is simple

(Right) Finally one can have a
frame built up in the English
fashion with an arched top

Book of Gardens 51

WH

Willi

ae

Lt

ean
emcee
ge” anemone

eo

“Oe FF ak mC —eetimmnsemntiamea ”tinoamnieeraiene
OO ig ai ttcnonsni *eaaaamata ae

ispcspsoci

segeses
sages,

If one is for- —— # — - = On this same
tunate enough : _— place the door-
to have an old way garden is
house or a planted with a
oo ae eae
yee, imiscent oO
she can use an English cot-
arched garden tage gardens.
gate, such as There are an-
this on the nuals growing
Bee pe Me, in tangl ue
. Vi- masses — yel-
vian Spencer low and or-
at Avondale, ange calendu-
R.I. And she las, flame - col-
Bee che aay
j ons, richly
enee g Bee or tinted zinnias
ox - barberry and bronze
edged border dahlias — all
filled with hel- intermingled,
peop, een with here and
er phlox an there an en-
pink scabiosa livening touch
mingled with of violet blue
lilies and pur- Salvia farina-
ple gladioli cea

ECS

le O Wak pRe Sie aortic (Grae Deka NE Geek) I We@
PEAN PING SUGGESTIONS jor SIMPIEE RPEACES

MARIAN C. COFFIN, Landscape Architec

S71 OO Wee AN
Paved Walks and Hox
to Make Them

yarden without walks fails in half its

Te ¢
mission It may be field

corner thick with wild asters and goldenrod is

iutiful, as a

beautiful—but it is not wholly intimate and
inviting. A garden should be more than mere
ly a pretty thing to be admired from outside

You must be able to wander through it easily
ind without thought of stumbling or treading
on tender PTOWINE things, if you are to know
it at its best. It must have paths to guide you
naturally and without conscious thought.

Of a variety of paths—gravel, earth, turf
and others—let us not here. Each
has its special place, particular
advantages. But the path of large stones is so
comparatively seldom built, and its good quali-
ties-relatively so little appreciated, that it calls
for more than passing attention.

In the first place, there is practical utility.
Paths like those illustrated on these pages are
always dry, firm and solid. There is no mud
or dust to walk in, no grass to keep eternally
cutting, no back-breaking raking, grading or
filling to do after the initial work has been
completed.

And there are other more esthetic but no less
important features. There is something sane-
ly substantial and forthright about the path of
large stones. It knows where it is going, and
why; it lends an air of permanency and de-
pendability to the whole garden. The age and
strength of the rock slabs contrast effectively
with the fragile beauty of the flowers. To
make the comparison still more marked, low
growing plants like snow-in-summer, speed-
well and rock pink may be planted here and

speak
each its

D

Tas G

transient

Regularly s
arranged in
manner are

well with a
as

The paved garden walk
lends an air of
permanence to the whole
setting, in contrast to the
flowers.
sted Brothers, landscape
architects

haped slabs
a geometrical
sufficiently

formal in effect to fit in

scheme such
this

AK & FE

solid

Olm-

House & Garden’s

BP ay ae

there in the spaces between the stones them-
selves. Along the sides, where their taller
growth will not interfere with passing feet,
plants of native wild columbine can lift their
coral and gold heads in the May sunshine.

The actual making of such a path calls for
more care than the casual beholder would
suspect.

First, there is the matter of the foundation.
This must be solidly made of well graded and
packed earth, perhaps with an underlying layer
of broken rocks for drainage if the location is
low and tends to wetness. The level of the
path, of course, should be raised enough to
prevent surface water from collecting.

The rock slabs themselves may be of native
fieldstone dressed roughly flat on the upper
side, or else irregular paving stones of the sort
used for ordinary street sidewalks. In either
case they should be of varying sizes and
shapes, except where an extremely formal ef-
fect is desired. Here uniformity of outline is
called for. The limits of size vary according
to the width of the path and the general scale
of the surroundings, but as a general rule
none of the slabs should measure less than 1’
or more than 3’ across the longest way.

Book of Gardens

The stones ought to be bedded
firmly in the soil when the latter
has had plenty of time to settle
after the final grading and has
been well tamped down. The sur-
ieee of the slabs should be raised

6" to 1” above the top of the earth
so that during heavy rains they
will not be flooded

As the photographs clearly show,
a considerable variety in size as
well as outline of the paving rocks
is necessary to permit laying them
in a wholly pleasing pattern. Any-
thing in the nature of a geometrical,
regular design should be avoided
except in really formal work. On
the other hand, guard against the
appearance of ‘“‘spottiness” which
inevitably follows a too great mass-
ing of either large or small rocks.
When the path is completed it
ought to present a uniform appear-
ance when considered as a whole—
no particular sections of it should
stand out more prominently than
the others because of the size or
arrangement of the stones.

The path of paved stones is sane-

ly substantial and forthright. It

knows where it is going, and w hy.

The effect of even pattern is evi-
dent here

GUPL

fai ee es eee
is tar sc fe Fico toes fc
i es Raa poe =

53

The spaces between the stones
should are be irregular in both
size and shape. It is they which
outline the yattern of the path, and
the slabs Sion never be so closely
fitted that these spaces lack promi-
nence. If this point is overlooked,
the finished job will be in large
measure flat, stale and unprofit-
able. ‘The photograph at the left
shows a path in which the pattern
has been well developed.

From start to finish, keep this in
mind: a path exists primarily to
walk upon, and it should invite
rather than discourage involuntary
footsteps. ‘To this end its surface
must be level and firm. It should
never inspire one with the sensa-
tion of skipping along a stream on
a succession of unevenly spaced
and wobbly boulders. ‘‘W ‘atch your
step” should be as. unnecessary an
admonition to the stroller along
the slab-laid garden walk as it is
needful in the maelstrom of a New
York subway station at the rush
hour.

The stones should be of varying

sizes and shapes. Grass may be

sown between them, or low

flowering plants put in. Kirk-
land Cutter, architect

ames be bre et fern saa eae P= ey
. *

Ee a Ly

54 House & Garden’s

This garden, on the place of Dr. and Where there is a slight rise in the

Mrs. J. Clifton Edgar, at Greenwich, garden, the point can be accented by
Conn., was built in a typical Con- shallow, flat stones set into the turf,
necticut outcrop of rock. Conse- as in the garden of Mr. and Mrs.
quently the steps were kept rugged J. Henry Alexander, at Roslyn, L. I.

Sel Bee Ss) Ned EAE Ge ACRS Dake

MARIAN C. COFFIN, Landscape Architect

A garden of varying levels is naturally marked
by stone or brick retaining walls broken at
convenient intervals by steps. These steps
can be of stone or brick or cement. They
should be hidden fairly well by flowers and
vines. Here, in the garden of Mr. and Mrs.
Bertram Borden at Oceanic, N. J., polyantha
roses grow over the wall, foxgloves in the
lower garden and anchusas in the upper

Book of Gardens

ARBORS,

SUMMER-HOUSES

55

PRE LEESE S

A Discussion of the General Principles Which Underlie Their Use—The Questions of Style,

IRST come, first served, and so

to first thoughts, which are usu-
ally indicative of something. They
are especially significant when they
have to do with outdoors. So what
is the first thought when one speaks
of an arbor?

With the word there comes a sense
of leafy shade on a summer day, of
vagrant winds, sweet with all out-
doors, of insect noises, of flickering
wings and the importance of bug
hunting and nest tending and what-
not; and above all else, freedom from
the everlasting impositions of con-
ventionality as represented by a

y,

LULU MB LL ly y

Where an individual plant
needs support a trellis may
serve a good purpose. But
a random scattering of de-
tached trellises should be
avoided in every case. Uni-
ty of design there must be

Location and Proper Emphasis in the Landscape Scheme

Vari
4 pastttly

bn

Another use of trellis is
found in the residence of J.
R. Potter, Esq., Great
Neck, L. I. Here it incloses
a pleasant outdoor living
room under trees. Paul
Hertwig was the architect

house. Pan and his court lurk some-
times near, if not within, the shadow
of an arbor, but they never approach
a house.

There must be nothing about an
arbor to dispel this sense of freedom,
nothing — continuing the fancy
that will alarm the timidest faun or
nymph, or make them fearful of im-
prisonment. Yet it must be a shelter
and afford seclusion from the sun
and heat; and even possibly from a
little summer shower, though cer-
tainly not roofed to withstand real
rain. Where rain cannot go, dryads
and satyrs never will!

Then it must be so open that birds
and bees and breezes may come and
go at will; and it must be so com-
pletely in harmony with nature all
around that both bees and birds will
frequent it as freely as they do the
trees. Within these specifications it
may take any form and be made of
any material one wishes; and it may
be situated wherever the natural
landscape, or a preconceived picture,
may determine. But it must always
follow the architectural lead of the
house.

The true arbor is never roofed to with-
stand a real rain. Its very nature de-
mands that it be open for free passage of
bird or bee or breeze

A sense of leafy shade on a sunny day,
of freedom from the imposed convention-
ality of a house, should characterize the

well planned arbor

Ever since Moses struck the rock garden

makers have built wall fountains. This is

it the home of Earl P. Charlton, Westport

Harbor, N. Y. Farley & Hooper were the
architects

Peering from the wy that drapes a stucco

wall is a satyr’s head fountain. It is on the

grounds of the H. A. Rogers place at

Tuxedo, N. Y. Walker & Gillette were the
architects

Disks
RLY EN
ROGK

House & Garden’s

The wall fountain can be treated in an in-

finite number of ways. It may be a sharp

contrast to its background or, as here, be

identical in tone and material. Walker &
Gillette, architects

To balance the statue, in the garden below,

zs a wall fountain also placed in a niche.

This is in the garden of Herbert L. Pratt,

Glen Cove, L. I. James L. Greenleaf,
architect

Book

I jel 0

of Gardens

X= SOL TS

IN

GEN KD iN

57

DPE si lGy N

Simple Principles and Rules Upon Which the Landscape Arrangement Should Be
Based, and an Example of How They Are Applied

O garden can be truly successful if it

wilfully violates certain simple rules
of design which should be carefully consid-
ered before a spade is turned. Its beds and
borders may proceed from month to month
with the most delightful effects of color and
mass; its walls and steps and architectural
ornament may be executed with skill and ex-
quisite taste, yet it will remain a meaningless
array of misplaced beauty if it lacks the es-
sential relation it should bear to its surround-
ings, and if its various parts want a proper
coordination to bring them into focus and to
give them their inherent value. It will be
rather like a marionette without strings.

Stripping off all artistic vagueness and get-
ting right down to the bones of garden design,
we find that in this case the strings are nothing
more than the center-lines or axes; and that
a proper arrangement of these, one to bring
into a convincing and logical relation to the
garden the surrounding natural and archi-
tectural features, is the skeleton of the scheme.
Upon this structure of strings that ties the
garden to the house and to the dominant nat-
ural growths of the site, the actual plan is
made.

A graphic illustration of the evolution of a
garden scheme is given in the accompanying
series of plans. These show the development
of the axial lines and, by means of them, the
subsequent development of the garden on a
place of moderate size where the character of
the ground is consistently level and unbroken
throughout. Plan 1 represents the house and
site before any center-lines are drawn and a
final arrangement seems correspondingly ob-
scure. The letters on the plans mark the sev-
eral features of the property that must be taken
into consideration in order appropriately to
locate and design the garden. Thus “A” is
the house of which the extremity of the south
wing is a loggia or built-in porch opening upon
a cluster of closely grouped trees. “B” indi-
cates the most suitable spot for the flower

garden, “C” the open lawn space, “E” the
vegetable garden, ““F” the tennis court and
“G” the garage. The disposition of these vari-
ous elements of the plant is arrived at by a
study of the adaptability of the ground for
each. ‘Thus, it is desired to reach the garden
through the loggia, but as there is a greater
wish to keep the space on the east front of
the house in open lawn, and as the space just
off the loggia to the south is far too shady, it
seems best to place it at ‘““B” as shown. Then,
at ““D” the vegetable garden will connect with
the service portion of the house and, at the
same time, balance the flower garden on the
opposite side. This leaves a place east of the
gardens and the lawn for a tennis court and
completes the sketching in of all the spaces
that le in some relation to the garden.

As yet there has been no definite tying in of
these various elements. The gardens, lawn
and tennis court have been apportioned to their
proper places, but there has been no attempt
made to shape them up or to connect them to
the. house or to each other. To do this it is
first necessary to draw in the axis lines of the
house group as in Plan 2. This house plan
being simple and symmetrical, its axes will
bisect the plan in either direction; the main
axis, 1, cutting the principal faces of the build-
ing and the secondary axis, 2, cutting the less
important faces at the ends. These center lines
must form a right angle with whatever face
of the house they happen to cut. Axes are
drawn through the garage and kitchen yard
to help in the development of the service por-
tion of the grounds.

The approximate location of the flower gar-
den having been already determined, it is
now necessary to devise a system of axes upon
which it may be developed more precisely, and
by which it may be convincingly connected
with either one of the house axes. As there is

in this instance no unusual characteristic in
the topography of the site or an existing minor
bit of architecture from which to get a start

we must use the trees. Of all those on the
property only the ones designated by letter
are of sufficient individual excellence to war-
rant their inclusion in the scheme as units in
the design. A high arching elm is marked
“H”, two well developed cedars “J” and “K”,
and a nicely proportioned white oak “L”’. As
the elm, “F”, might serve as the keynote of
the garden and as it is just about halfway
between the property line and the edge of the
space allotted to the lawn, a line, 3 on Plan 3,
is made to bisect it and, furthermore, to inter-
sect the secondary axis of the house with a
right angle.

We now have the main center-line of the
garden and have it connected with a center
line of the house, but we want something more
than a backbone and we want to tie in also,
if possible, the two cedars and the white oak.
The cedar, ““G”, and the white oak are readily
worked into the scheme by connecting them
to the established main axis of the garden by
lines 4 and 5.

The next step is the shaping up and the
adding of flesh to the skeleton. In plan 4
we see how the different elements of the scheme
have been proportioned and how the paths and
boundaries have been located by means of the
axis lines previously sketched in. The cross
axis of the house, line 2, formed the basis for
a path from the loggia to a pool in the paving
of the path, marking the intersection of the
main garden axis, then on to a seat, where it
terminates at the high boundary of the property
line.

It is largely a matter of taste whether or not
to mark with some ornament the intersections
of the cross axis, lines 4 and 5, with the main
axis of the garden. They have served their
purpose in defining to some extent the limits of
the garden and in creating the cross lines. Line
6, tying in the cedar “K’’, has become the rea-
son for the longitudinal path on the north side
of the garden and the corresponding one along
the south side.

i ipa aac 7

VIGLFADLE § GARora

PIL AVAL 4

Fe
Axty UADRAWA

P LAA Zz

ji Ganora Axey Draws

IPL ANDI AL

Axry DryrLorrtp

58

VISTAS IN] ib
GARDEN

HE primary purpose of a path is to

lead one somewhere. Thus was it in
the beginning, is now, and, so far as one
can foresee, will indefinitely remain.

Yes, a path must go somewhere, if its
existence is to be justified. It should
possess a destination not only in the
physical sense, but in the mental as well.
In other words, the ideal path carries
one’s eyes as well as feet from here to
there. It is a vista, more or less pro-
nounced according as it is straight or
winding.

This vista quality is one of the chief
assets of an attractive path, for vistas in
the garden there must be. Without them
we feel confined, shut in by too near
boundaries of flower, shrub and _ tree.
Our imaginations, together with our eyes,
have too little to feed upon where there
is no guiding sense of distance. We
need the contrasts and comparisons pro-
vided by a receding view.

A vista need by no means be as ambi-
tious as the two examples shown on this
page. It may be no more than a glimpse
between two flowering shrubs to a garden seat
a dozen yards away; or a bit of distant moun-
tain seen through a gap in the boundary hedge.
Yet it must always be justified—generally by

Creating a successful vista is a matter of real study.
Keep in mind that the object is to draw one’s atten-
tion directly to some goal more or less distant

the existence at its far end of some object which
serves as a definite goal for the eye.

Rules for planning vistas can be no more
than suggestive, as the conditions and possi-

af

IIouse & Garden’s

as

oi)

The vista’s purpose is to lead the

eye into the distance. Here on

the estate of Harrisson Bennett,

Esq., at Weston, Mass., this effect

is achieved by the straight line

and contrasting color of the
central walk

bilities of different places are rarely
identical. Keep in mind the general
principle—that a vista is a more or less
narrowed glimpse into the distance, gain-
ing its effect through the contrast of near
and far objects.

Two mediums may be utilized in fram-
ing the sides of the vista, for distinct
sides there should be in the majority of
cases. he first is architectural in char-
acter, exemplified by the pergola, the
gateway in wall or fence, the pillars of
the covered terrace. The second, and by
far the more generally available, is the
planting of trees and shrubs. Here lie
the biggest possibilities, the best chance
to attain success with the minimum of
labor and expense. Growing things are
Nature’s frame, ready to your hand.

Work for perspective in the plan of
your garden or grounds. If there is even
an indefinable feeling of undue restric-
tion, of overcrowding, look about for vis-
ta possibilities. It is not all of landscape
planting to plant; more frequently than most
of us realize the solution of our difficulties
on the road to garden perfection lies in elimi-
nation rather than addition.

Book of Gardens

It is often advisable
to break the garden
vista with the oc-
casional relief of an
arbor. This is done
on the Newport place
of Mrs. Hugh D.
Auchincloss, where
fluted columns sup-
port the arbors im the
rose garden and lat-
tice affords a back-
ground for climbing
roses. The long grav-
eled path ends in a
rustic gate and a
vista of sea and sky

59

The garden vista is
usually accented by
a path which forms
the major axis in the
garden design. Where
it crosses other axes
the spot can be
marked by a sundial
or bird bath. In the
gardens of Mrs. John
S. Newberry at
Grosse Pointe Farms,
near Detroit, the path
leads the eye to the
pergola on one side
and the tangled fields

60 House & Garden’s

[ L ee The tennis court should have
n adequate backstop and _ side
fences. These may be _ well

masked by planting. Wiliam
Pitkin, landscape architect

Metimom ovtvide ling <_+—+)
|

ee |

| . | oe

GAMES and the | ae ye
1 yan yy

|

LAN DSCATr i

DIAGRAM /HOWIAG CROQUET LAWN DIMEA/IOA/ SC H Ig M B

i
DIAGRAM /HOWING TEA:

~— es

NIZ COURT DIMEN/IONY

Croquet has come into its own

again as a country home game. It

requires a space only 30' by 60’,

including the boundary lines of
planks set on edge

The single and double tennis courts

are the same size except for the ad-

ditional 4%' alleys on either side of

the latter. Turf, clay or concrete is
the usual playing surface

Lawn bowling is one of those games
too seldom played, perhaps because
it is not well known. It calls for

a smooth, sunken alley 10' wide el ee
5 Pe err rca

and 60° to 125' long PLAA-/NOWING- ARRAAGEMEAT OF GAMIZ O TY
OF -MOPIRATE. JIZE MEASYRIAG 140 PY 300 TEET

For the golf enthusiast there is the

game of clock golf, utilizing a put-

ting green with consecutive playing

positions corresponding to the figures
on a clock’s dial

= =
The playing area, whether DIAGRAM Nt 42 iy Dot encleved
7 oy ; ry sole Yan numerols
Lge croquet, bowls SIOWIAG serignete
or what-not, should form re = RE mber
+ FECTION THROUGH GRETA a definite part of the oS 10,0 a)" eee
. } : Z { landscaping scheme. The GOLF which
le — SS — | best plan is to include it LAY— kd
lee |e" ArLurtr. z" when the planting design OUT: 5) tlh 3) tne poled
jon == SSS is first worked out. These Dimension aia
| Seamer Pe aes 5 game centers were de- one Sanne precresrive
signed by Richard H. ie sealeen ers re aston
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- WIDTH DBETWEEA /LOPED LDGIAG TO DL NOT 1E// THAN IC's ployers = g oe

Book of Gardens

61

A PORTFOLIO
OF BEAUTIFUL GARDENS

Being Views of Many Types of
Gardens in Various Sections of The
United States, England and in Italy

House & Garden’s

P20 F

5

ia

So eh:

THE LANDS CAGr. EarCahWekon

To complete the natural setting of the residence of Frank
B. Wells at Burlington, Vt., pine trees were moved near the
house, thus filling out the picture begun by the natural
woodland of hardy pines on the bluff before it. Ralph M.
Weinrichter was the landscape architect of the place

Book of Gardens

Deedes aide

Me

(Above) Seen from
an airplane, the gar-
den of “Knollwood”,
the home of Mr.
Charles I. Hudson, at
East Norwich, Long
Island, presents the
full beauty of its Ital-
ian plan, taken from
designs brought from
Italy in the time of
Francois I. The first
terrace is a blue gar-
den, and each plot be-
low has its own color
scheme _ surrounded
by hedges. Hiss &
Weekes, architects

EE COM RE Eas GACRe DEIN ve sEyAGN)
HS WIL SIBING TIO) IL WP sis AN IEIR

63

(Left) In the older
days, a garden had
its portrait sketched
in what was called a
bird’s-eye view. The
fashionable garden of
today has its photo-
graph taken from a
hovering airplane.
This lovely garden at
“Meudon”, the home
of Mr. William G.
Guthrie, at Locust
Valley, Long Island,
is planted with a
great variety of ever-
(GALA Bs (Ce J2, Jal,
Gilbert, architect

From the lily
pool one can look
up the grass
paths between
the orderly beds
to the house

NE should not

come upon a
formal garden too
suddenly. The way
to it should be a
gradual progress
from the house. This
axiom is beautifully
illustrated in the
garden at the home
on Dr J Henny;
Lancashire at Man-
chester, Mass.

From the grass
terrace before the
house—a terrace
worked out by a
stone wall and ac-
cented with pottery
jars—one passes by
slow degrees along
grass walks down to
the lower level of the
oarden. Here are
formal beds brilliant
with color the season
through. The main

THE GARDEN of DR. J. HENRY LANCASHIRE
MANCHESTER, MASS.

MRS. WM

A.

HUTCHESON, Landscape

Archit

4

co

House & Garden’s

:

SSA ALES SRR EN NNN

Standing on the

terrace before the

house one catches

this glimpse of

the garden and
its setting

axis terminates in a
semi - circular, lily
pool held in a stone
curbing.

At this poimt the
ways divide. On
each side stone steps
lead to a pergola so
heavily bowered in
vines that one does
not at first suspect it
of being a pergola.
This forms the ex-
edra or termination
of the garden.

Behind rises a
rock-ribbed hillside
heavily forested. The
garden, then, is like
a jewel of many col-
ors in a setting of
woods, its formal
lines and varied col-
ors contrasting with
the rugged character
of the immediate
surroundings.

Book of Gardens

A perspective
view shows the
design of the
beds, the pool
and pergola cov-
ered with vines

On either side of
the pergola steps are
large clipped bay
trees. The border
planting under the
wall includes bright
poppies and stately
lilies, primroses and
Solomon’s Seal,
peonies and iris,
with spireas and tall
roses against the
wall and climbing
roses above.

The formality of
the garden is ac-
counted for by pyra-
midal box specimens
placed at regular in-
tervals along the
edge of the middle
path and the box by which the beds are bor-
dered. In the beds are all the well-loved
perennials and some annuals—delphinium and
digitalis, Campanula, iris, daisies, snap-
dragons, peonies, poppies, feverfew, heliotrope.
Phlox, that splendid color contribution to any

garden, has been judiciously and effectively
used in various shades of pink and white.
This is a walled garden, the forest at the
upper side being cut off by a high retaining
wall covered with vines and apple trees on

espaliers. Beneath the walls are hollyhocks,

Little side paths
lead to hidden
glimpses of great
loveliness in col-
or and profu-
sion of blossom

small roses, iris and
buddleia. The low-
er wall of the garden
is not so high be-

cause—and this is
the surprise! — the
slope below it
stretches down to
the sea.

Bisecting the gar-
den are two paths, at
the end of which are
pretty garden orna-
ments — bird baths
and satyrs looking
out from a bower of
roses, an old stone
well-head, and
benches set in shady,
secluded corners
among fine plantings
of rhododendrons and grapevines.

The sea beyond, the rock-ribbed hills behind;
inside these walls, comfortable formality, soft
grass paths, touches of statuary, a lily pool
mirroring the sky and color from early spring
to the first frost of autumn.

66 House & Garden’s

IN THE
= - GARDENS OF
i MISS ROSINA

HOYT

SOUTHAMPTON,
LONG ISLAND

FERRUCCIO VITALE
Landscape Architect

Between tubbed hy-

drangeas steps lead up

from the lawn to the

vine shaded coolness of
the pergola

Full consideration
has been given to
the effectiveness of
unbroken lawn
spaces stretching
down from the
house to the for-
mal lily pool and
bounded by massed
evergreens whose
variety and ar
rangement are
especially worthy
of attention. Hiss
& Weekes, archi-
tects of the house

The reverse of the
view at the top of
the page shows the
Italian summer-
house with its
flanking pergolas,
the whole a fit set-
ting for the pool
The aquatic plant-
ing has been kept
trim, that the
water itself may
fulfill its mission
as mirror of the
sky, the clouds and
the surroundings

Book of Gardens

AN ORCHARD
T Tel 1S AN
GARDEN TOO

On the Place of Egerton
L. Winthrop, at

SVOSSEM, Wea:

DELANO & ALDRICH

Architects

A border of brilliant
blooms has been planted
along the edge of the series
of little gardens from
which flowers are con-
stantly being plucked, to
decorate the house. The
turf is kept clipped

Formality and gracious-
ness are cleverly com-
bined in the little rose
garden with its close
clipped box outlining the
beds. A small marble
statue surrounded by roses
marks the centre

-

ATI

Ut

att}

The original garden site was a steeply sloping meadow. This
as broken by walls and the terraces graded down. The walls
ave a background for beds of hardy perennials. The steps
are accented by English boxwood trees. Water plants grow in
the long pool. From the verandah one looks down into the
garden as into a bowl of flowers. This is on the estate of Bar-
n Crocker, Fitchburg, Massachusetts, of which Prentice
Sanger was the landscape architect

House

A HILLSIDE GARDEN IN MASSACHUSETTS

& Garden’s

Book of Gardens 69

From one end of the pool runs a per-
gola with an old apple tree overhanging
the water and casting its shade on the
glimmering surface. An apple tree in a
Greek garden! Let’s see—in one of her
fragments, doesn’t Sappho speak of an
apple tree and the golden fruit that was
always too high to reach?

Down the midst of the garden runs a shallow canal bordered by

arborvitae and specimen cedars and low-growing evergreens. At

the farther end is the Greek theatre flanked by tall columns bear-

ing lordly sphinxes that were executed by Paul Manship. The wall

enclosing the grounds is crowned with hard-outlined battlements
such as Troy might have known

Mt GIR EKG GACRSD EIN, 077 bet
ESTATE of SAMUEL UNTERMYER

GREYSTONE, NEW YORK

WELLES BOSWORTH, 4drchitect

Standing at the edge of the upper terrace

and overlooking the swimming pool is a

Greek temple of marble Corinthian col-

umns and a circular entablature open to

the sky. It is executed in Alabama marble.

The whole garden answers the poet’s ques-
tion, “Why Go To Greece?”

se ie (4 all

AN

ALF-WAY between

the formal, archi-
tectural garden of Le
Notre, the garden of
which Versailles is the
splendid model, and the
so-called “English” gar-
den, with its less geo-
metrical pattern and its
absence of architecture,
stands the topiary or
sheared garden.

The builder and the
architect had as great a
hand in the making of a
formal garden as the hor-
ticulturist. Terraces, sta-
tues, walls, and arches
were more important in
these elaborate creations
than growing plants.

The topiarist makes
the best of both worlds.
He is both builder and
architect, but the mate-
rials he uses are living
trees instead of inani
mate stone.

Where the

gardener must

ordinary

necessa-

be

:

Ee Ne Galak se

Against solid walls of dark yew have been grown specimen statues carved in juniper.
This forms the termination of the canal, and is placed in such a relationship to the
water that the sombre coloring of the yew is intensified, and the light tones of the
juniper made still more lovely. The garden was designed by Mr. Romaine-Walker

T Off & Agke

In a Slight Thirty Years This Garden Has Been Grown —
It Rivals Some of the Most Ancient Gardens of England

On a dry, arid bank is a thick plantation of laurels, clipped to an even surface,
while at the top come the finer foliage and forms of yew. The way leads by these
stone steps from the forest up to the level open stretches of the garden

House & Garden’s

GAR Dae

rily work in irregular
broken masses, the topi-
arist can employ straight
lines, plane surfaces and
all the forms of solid
geometry. At the same
time his green masonry
has this advantage over
the architect’s stonework,
that it is alive and diver-
sified by the innumerable
intricate details of a liy-
ing organism. A flat sur-
face that is composed of
countless little leaves is
more interesting, richer
in quality than the flat
surface of a stone in lay-
ing out, etc.

In laying out this to-
piary garden the de-
signer has made some
interesting experiments
in color variation—yew,
juniper, Irish yew, lau-
rel, golden yew, box, and
ivy have been mingled so
as to relieve the unvaried
sombreness of the plain
yew hedge.

es)

ook

Lie fe

LMM AL

Mlle

LE,

ty

Mille le

Lidl

la

The garden at “Glen-
wood,’ home of Mrs.
T. B. Wilcox, near
Portland, Oregon, is
laid out in a meadow
with towering fir
trees for a_back-
ground. A wall of red
brick surmounted by
a white balustrade
encloses the garden.
The borders are
planted with peren-
nials

of Gardens

MIM

A WALLED GARDEN IN THE NORTHWEST

L. M. THIELEN, Landscape Architect

Half encircled by the
curved pergola and
protected by the sur-
rounding woods, is
the lily pond. In this
climate of Oregon
only a few weeks in-
tervene between the
last blooms in Decem-
ber and the early
flowers which open in
February. The water
in the lily pond is
rarely frozen

~

tN

nO PSR tom unr co «

EE: iE WO

There are always two gardens—the garden in full sunlight,
vhen every flower and tree limb silhouettes distinctly, and
the wraithed garden seen in the white mists of dawn, the
mauves of dusk or late on summer nights patterned over
with silver from the moon. For the. beauty of color watch
the garden i inlight; for the beauty of subtle tones and

House

Ge ASR] DEIN es

delicate atmosphere study the wraithed garden. Such is
this view in the garden at the home of Herbert N. Straus,
Red Bank, New Jersey, showing a glimpse of the broad
stone step leading up to the tree-shadowed terrace.
The landscape architect was Martha Brookes Hutche-
son and the associate architect F. Burrall Hoffman, Jr

@& Garden’s

Book

of Gardens

WH

When the sun be-
comes overpower-
img one may retire
to a little stone
porch that makes a
cool oasis in the
midday heat. Con-
trasted with its
shadowed darkness
is the blaze of
Shirley poppies

A_ garden architec-
ture that shall seem
a natural outflow-
ing of the earth
is the ideal of Mr.
Turner's school of
landscaping. These
walls are of rough-
hewn stone fledged
with plants

73

These four views are

of an English walled
garden, a garden set
on a hill exposed to

winds that made walls
a necessity. The gar-
den is on the place of
Mr. Thackeray Turner,
near Godalming, Surrey

AN
ENGLISH
MAW JEN JL, Ve 18), ID)
GARDEN

(Below) From the seat
in this sunny recess in
the wall one can see
through an arch into

the garden behind.
This arched _ niche
promises a windless

spot where one could
sit in cold weather

74 House & Garden’s

Fortunate is the gar-
dener who can include
water in the planting
picture, even though it
be but a glimpse, as
here, through an open
ing among trees

A GARDEN NEAR
WATER. THE PLACE
of

J: KENNEDY TOS

SOUND BEACH, CONN.

MARIAN C. COFFIN

Landscape Architect

Madonna lilies ana

Japanese iris are

grouped side by side in

the beds around the

turf circle. Boxwood is

used throughout to out-
line the beds

Book of Gardens

On this place, the estate of Mrs. Robert Hager, Jr., the
problem was to plot the drives and planting so that the
service end of the house, which is on a lower level, could
be easily reached. A latticed forecourt solved the problem

CHD ERORE COURM
INTE ONES IIB IR IBA Ii, Ih

PRENTICE SANGER, Landscape Architect

if, yO y
CICy ?

fs y

~ ia a

Sa

FY, (PLAN oF Deve -
SSUMTATE bf ROBERT MAGEE, JPa

\ OYSTE Lays
4 PRENTICE JANCER, LaNpscape Aucune
21 east tore Jt. Aum YORR CITY

The house stands on the brow of a hill
and behind it the land drops about 6'
below the level of the forecourt. This
accounts for the contour of the drives
and the arrangement of planting

. ee
Tererur os?

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ge fas
tet ote

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bes
i Be
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eter
bee

Bee ee

A direct route from the front drive to

the service door is gained by a path

that leads through an arched gate.

This is a charming glimpse of the gate
and its attendant shrubbery

76

House & Garden’s

The foliage of trees forms a background to the brick wall, which encloses the formal garden with its pool mirroring the branches

and sky, its stretches of turf and flagged walks

A WAT, BD Gs Ran

Sh EF

It is an ornate creation in a rugged setting—each the richer by the contrast

IN

THE WOORs

On the Place of Henry G. Lapham, Esq., at Brookline, Mass., Has Been
Made a Formal Garden of Great Distinction

ss garden was designed to serve as an
adjunct to the house. The problem was
a difficult for the reason that the main
grounds were purposely left in a natural state,
the only artificial element being the garden
proper. .

Phis is surrounded by a brick wall at the
rear of which is a natural park where fine
trees and shrubs with effective ground cover
are pl inted to good advantage and where many
wild flowers are and
blossom. The bac kground of trees brings out
to advantage the brick wall with its topping of

ment and proves an effectual wind-break.

Leaving the house proper,
stretch of soft green turf, which is the central

one

encouraged to

STOW

one treads a

feature of the upper garden. This follows the
gradual slope of the land and is surrounded
by by-paths that lead down to broad steps.
Boxes filled with yellow pansies, vincas and
purple pansies stand at regular intervals.

[The planting is especially interesting. It
is mainly evergreen and ludes spruces, hem-

locks, junipers, dwarf evergreens, cactus and
Japanese pines, together with broad leaf ever-
greens such as rhododendrons and leucothoes,
with ground covers planted beneath.
There are pansies, blue, yellow and white, and
violets, mingling with some of the native lilies.

good

The Garden Proper

This prepares us for the garden proper,
which is laid out like a great painting on the
landscape. Passing down the step we enter
a wide flag walk with the grass growing be-
tween the stones. Along the terrace wall, di-
viding the two sections of flowers, are lilies,
double hollyhocks, iris, lupins, asters, single
sunflowers and monkshood, as well as ever-
greens, deciduous trees and Japanese maples,
most of which are planted for winter effect.

\n oval pool has been placed in the center
of the design. To break its severity, there have
been introduced baskets of fruit. Vases and
stone lions are introduced on the rim. Low
benches stand conveniently nearby, and beyond

is the exedra of the curving garden wall.

At the left and right of the pool are rect-
angular flower beds with small borders of
Japanese barberry, and at the extreme right in
the upper corner, is an attractive little tea-
house, or gazebo. Another summer-house is
found on the right of the garden wall.

The beds at the left of the water garden are
planted for a succession of bloom, and al-
though this is essentially an early summer plot,
yet there are blossoms until frost. Pansies,
violets, iris, peonies, marigolds and snap-
dragons, together with baby’s-breath and
monkshood, have been planted here. Against
the wall are fine specimens of buddleia. As
an edging plant pachysandra has been used,
and sedum chosen to outline the lower wall.

Near the gate that leads out to the sur-
rounding ground hollyhocks have been planted
for color accents, while vincas, pansies and
baby’s-breath grow in and around the barberry
hedge. Near the house and outside the wall
are massed plantings of hardy shrubs.

Book of Gardens

From the house the
garden stretches
out in its broad
areas of turf and
border planting
with well-kept
walks and statu-
ary set at regular
intervals to act as
accents

77

Along one of the
side walks is a
little roofed rest
house hid away in
a profusion of
flowers. Here one
can take shelter
from the hot sun
on a sudden
shower

“8 House G Gardens

The decorative value of vines against a
wall of dazzling whiteness is shown in
this garden of Mrs. John C. Phillips at
Beverly, Mass. They hang in profusion
over the balustrade and clamber up
from the border of perennials, making
a charming background for the quaint
old statue of St. Francis that surmounts
the bird bath and fountain

Most successful is the arrangement of
this garden vista. The dark background
of luxuriant trees, the rich beauty of
the perennial borders, the accentuating
potted hydrangeas, all lead up to and
enhance the delicate grace of the little
Diana at the end of the path. This is
a bit of the garden on Mrs. Gordon
{bbott’s estate at Manchester, Mass.

Book of Gardens 79

AEN GAWS

ELEY

LE ULE EEUU

It’s a far cry from the humble “swim-
min’ hole” of bygone days to this regal
pool set amid the formal beauty of
graveled walks and far-stretching lawns
and surrounded by majestic trees that
cast their shadows in its mirrored depths.
The effect is one of unusual simplicity
and dignity. It is on the estate of Mrs.
Gordon Dexter, Beverly, Mass.

AN INTERESTING
GROUP OF NORTH
SHORE GARDENS

This might be the corner of some gar-
den in Italy. Italian is the wall fountain
of white marble, exquisitely carved and
effectively placed in a setting of con-
trasting brick. The marble balustrade
and graceful urns, also reminiscent of
Italy, have for a background, most
Italian of all, the imposing beauty of
Lombardy poplars. Mis. Frank P.
Frazier’s garden, Manchester, Mass.

House & Garden’s

IN THE
GARDEN of
MRS. F. L
VARING

PASADENA,
CAL.

MYRON T. HUNT
Architect

Byveennieetaty |

(Left) An old-world
charm hovers about
the garden where
lofty Italian cypres-
ses majestically lead
the way up the brick
steps to the balus-
traded terrace which
surrounds the house

In moonlight, of course, dryads trip down these long Italian steps At the other end of the house, one is lured on by the sweetness of
to the “arroyo seco” below, where they sport amid the live-oaks that climbing roses to walk through the beautiful pergola between rows of
line the banks and rest upon the lovely woodland seats which mortal box-plants, and find at the end that one has come to the formal flower

hands have with forethought placed for them gardens, beyond which lies a sparkling pool

Book of Gardens

IN THE GARDEN OF

JAMES PARMELEE, Esq.
WASHINGTON, D. C.

CHARLES A. PLATT, Architect
Mrs. ELLEN SHIPMAN, Landscape Architect

81

The feathery foliage of arborvitaes and the Approaching the garden from the side, five

richer green of boxwood edging stand out steps lead down from the higher ground.

in marked contrast to the lines and color of From them the axial walk leads to a pool and
the brick and cement wall fountain in the center

Save for the rough flagged smaller pathways, it is a brick walked and
brick walled garden. Pleasantly relieving shadows are cast by the pro-
jecting bricks in the wall, which are regularly arranged

House & Garden’s

peels

Nothing disturbs the dignity of space in the view from the terrace,

and this simplicity of treatment makes it all the more impressive

Graceful swans swim lazily on the long pools, and the close-clipped

hedges and the tall trees beyond give a sense of unreality to the
picture, so perfect is the setting .

(Below) At the end of the poplar walk, there is a rose garden with a

circular pool and a fountain, exactly as it should be. Sweet-smelling

box outlines the beds, and pungent eucalyptus trees border the

grounds, giving an atmosphere of seclusion and creating a graceful
background

Charming in the sunshine that filters through the
trees by day and a place of veritable enchantment
in the moonlight is this architectural bit of the gar-
den with its interesting statuary and its balustrades

SERENE ENCHANIMENS

REIGNS in the GARDEN of MR.

GEORGE A. NEWHALL at HILLS-
BOROUGH, CALIFORNIA

LEWIS P. HOBART
Landscape Architect

Book of Gardens : 83

REAM EVB WME

ANGE

AANA

F al JULIAN
Tt looks down upon a mighty panorama E iD T I N G E : S

framed by the Sierra Madre Range. Silver solve themselves into seven gardens of indi-
Lake stretches below. Charles G. Adams, land- G A R D E N A J
scape architect :

So precipitous is the site that the grounds re-

vidual atmosphere, on seven connecting dif-
ferent levels

LOS ANGELES,
CAL.

XS
it
<8

MME DL)
-

The view across the garden from
southeast to northwest shows
two of the accenting palmetto
trees and a corner of the villa
beyond. The arrangement might
be called informally formal

Though it is not a part of the
garden, the view from the north
doorway of the villa through a
gap in the hedge to the valley
of the Arno is a noteworthy

feature of th pl e :

From the orchard one looks toward the lemon

house through whose arched passageway is a

glimpse of the garden beyond. The lemon house

forms the south boundary of the garden and gives

ample protection to the shade-loving plants which
are growing in its lee

House & Garden’s

At the intersection of the main

axes is a little well with a stone

curb and iron railing. Beyond

are the arch of the lemon house

and the walk which leads into
the orchard

THE GARDEN OF THE
VILLA SAN MARTINO

NEAR FLORENCE,
RAY,

Book of Gardens

Mooney ED NGUAND GARDEN

Below the retain-
ing wall with its
sheared privet
hedge are the
clipped turf walks
and formal flower
beds bright with
delphinium, lilies,
phlox and many
other plants. A
thick hedge of ar-
borvite surrounds
the whole and,
with the trees,
forms an effective
background

85

Bee SE SA

In front of the
house a long
stretch of ground
has been converted
into a formal gar-
den. A Druid feel-
ing is given by an
old wooden sun-
dial set in a circle
of turquoise and
flame slate flags,
with curved stone
benches and bay
trees on either
hand in symmetri-
cal arrangement

ORR

For the good of his body and the cleansing
of his soul every man should go into a beauti-
ful garden at least once each year. He should
let its beauties seep through his pores, its
scents sooth his nerves and its vistas re-focus
his vision. Let him sit still in such a garden
for an afternoon, and he will come back clear
of eye, laughing, contented, at peace with

L EEG OO

House

& Garden’s

OF ATs BOW my

himself and the world. Such a garden is this,
which is at Ashbery, Mass., the home of Mrs.
J. P. Lyons. Here are lawns patterned with
the shadows of great trees; here are paths
winding between masses of colorful blooms;
here is a white-balustered terrace under the
shade of friendly trees. Here also is a
Presence greater than man

Book of Gardens

Levick

(Above) That one of the se-
ries of pools which lies nearest
the little guest cottage is about
three feet deep and is stocked
with trout. Above it is a lily
pool, and below has been built
a deeper and larger one for
swimming. The boulder gar-
den and cottage are part of
the property of Mrs. Emma
Flower Taylor, of Watertown,

N.Y.

A GUEST HOUSE

and a BOULDER
GARDEN

W. MAREDYDD HARRISON
Landscape Architect

87

(Left) The man staircase of
the garden, where the rock-
work shows to splendid ad-
vantage. The landscaping is
all in accordance with the geo-
logical characteristics of the
surrounding country, the stones
themselves being markedly
Stratified and including some
specimens of very old Azoic
rock. Little planting is used
here

(Above) The water-garden at
Bridge House, Weybridge, the resi-
dence of Mrs. Trower, is a canai
ending in an Italian tea-house
flanked with creeper-clad columns.
Water-lilies, kept well within
bounds, enrich the reflections in its
clear depths Designed by Mr.
Harold Peto

The arch forming the inlet to the
water parterre, in the illustration
below this, is bt in dry Stone.
The treatment of the curb, which
is edged with flag-stones, should
be noted, since it avoids a too
sharp edge in an ingenious manner

@& Garden’.

(Left) At the end of the lower ter-
race in Mr. Prince Smith’s garden
at Whinburn, Keighley, lies this
pool. White Valerian grows in
the dry bank, but nothing breaks
the calm surface of the water
save two sparse clumps of reeds.
Designed by Mr. O. Maxwell

Ayrton

The water parterre which runs the
entire length of the centre terrace
at Whinburn, Keighley, is of un-
usual and interesting design. Iris
reeds grow within its narrow bor-
ders, and foxgloves hide the top of
the dry built-in wall of the terrace

NY

Book of Gardens 89

KS

(Above) This formal enclosed garden at West-

(Below) The octagonal pool in the centre of this
wood St. Dunstan's, Mayfield, Sussex, is a wel-

sunk garden is a striking contrast to the formal ‘ WATER IN ENGLISH
come escape from the restlessness of the hillside

design above. Funkias, muscanthus, and other |
i landscape. Clipt yews emphasize its long lines,

reeds grow im opulent masses round its borders.
This garden is at the residence of Mr. Thackeray GARDENS and a cock guards the entrance. The ornamental
Turner, Westbrook, Godalming vases are from a design by Christopher Wren

WHE

we

90 House & Garden’s

For the purpose of screening a tennis court on the
adjoining property, a section of the north garden
was given a pergola background. It is painted
gray green. The brick walks are bordered with
box and the flowers are, for the most part, an-
nuals—snapdragons, larkspur, phlox and such. On
the outside are small evergreens and a dense
growing arborvitae hedge

THE GA RODE
of
H. G. DABRO-®

CLEVELAND, OHIO

ABRAM GARFIELD
Architect

Beds of roses are at this end of the garden, with

peonies on the sides and arborvitae. The marble

seat and four columns that form the exedra of

the garden were brought from Florence. Ram-

blers are trained over them. Behind these column

arborvitae forms a thick hedge shielding the gar-
den from the street

Book

of Gardens

|
|
|

THE YEAR’S WORK

Including The Gardener's Calendar, Planting Tables, Spraying
Charts, and The Procedure for Making and Maintaining Gardens

Lime will benefit al-
most all garden soils,
and is essential for
those which are acid

A garden fork is the best

implement for spreading

manure. This is the way
to use it

See that the manure is scat-

tered evenly over the

ground to be fertilized, be-
fore digging it in

A fork is used to break
the earth lumps

How to hold a rake for
smoothing the soil prepara-
tory to planting

Get the weight of your
body as well as foot to
work when spading

Label each row of seeds

when you plant it, and

use a measuring stick
for regularity

To make a “drill” for

beets, parsnips, etc.,

turn the hoe blade on
end

Small seeds like carrots
need a_ Shallow drill,
made with a pointed

stick

House & Garden’s

BUILDING the GARDEN

Making Sure of Results by Laying a
Firm Foundation—A General
Summary of Important Details

Peek, antes the beginner at gardening
may not realize it, the making of a
garden is not unlike the building of a house:
good materials are essential, but the ultimate
results hinge upon making the foundation
right. Good seeds and a good plan for the
arrangement of the different crops are, of
course, important; but alone they do not by
any means assure satisfactory results. Years
of practical experience, or else the closest
attention to every detail of preparation and
planting, are necessary to give the garden a
strong start toward real success.

The preliminary work—what to do to the
soil to make it capable of producing big crops
—is the first essential. The next problem is
how to set about getting these big crops out
of the soil. With this part of the foundation
of our garden building laid, what comes next?

To make the whole matter as plain as pos-
sible for the uninitiated, let us take up the
matter of soil preparation and planting not
in a general way, but in detail, item by item
in proper order.

Let us assume, therefore, that the garden
has been plowed and harrowed and thoroughly
enriched with manure or fertilizer, or with
both. Possibly there has been a long, beating
rain which has made the surface compact and
hard again; or a few days of wind and sun
that have left it crusted and baked on the
surface.

The very first step is to prepare, for receiv-
ing the seed, as much of the garden as we
expect to plant at the first sowing.

This is quite a different operation from
merely having the garden plowed and _ har-
rowed or spaded up—as different as putting
on the ceiling boards or laths and plaster is
from putting up the rough studding that is
to support them. Perhaps our planting in-
structions say to “rake the soil off nice and
smooth with a garden rake’; but if the soil
has lain for some days in a beating rain or
in bright sunshine after plowing and harrow-
ing, ordinary raking will have very little effect
upon it.

Get out the wheel-hoe and put on the plain,
vertical cultivator teeth—all of them, and
evenly spaced. With this you can make a
cut 1’ to 114’ wide. Mark off roughly the
part of the garden you are ready to plant and
go over it with the wheel-hoe, a strip at a time,
until the entire surface is loosened up. It will
be pretty stiff work, but not nearly as hard
as trying to do it with a rake, and you will
accomplish several times more. If your gar-
den is so small that you have not a wheel-hoe,
then you should get one of the adjustable cul-
tivator-tooth rakes or hoes which are now on
the market. These, of course, have no wheels,
and are pulled instead of being pushed like a
wheel-hoe. But they will do good work, al-
though not quite as fast or as easily as a
wheel-hoe. You should have one or the other.

Whatever the tool used, the object is to get
the surface thoroughly loosened up again to a
depth of several inches. If no other tool is
available, you may have to do it with an ordi-
nary hoe or with the spading fork.

When this work has been done, we are ready
to use the rake. And the next thing for the
beginner to learn is that this implement is

Book of Gardens

not to be used in the same manner as it would
be in raking grass.

In the latter case, the object is to rake up
everything there is on the surface of the
ground; in the garden, to rake up as little as
possible. In preparing the garden, the rake
is used primarily for leveling the surface, and
only incidentally for gathering up such pieces
of manure, small stones, plant stems and other
useless rubbish as may be on the very surface
of the ground. The rake, then, should be used
with a backward-and-forward motion to level
down all ridges and fill up hollows, and lightly
remove any loose trash from the surface, leay-
ing a perfectly level, fine, moist strip of ground
ready to receive the seed.

The next step is to mark off the first row.
Don’t just go ahead and guess at it. It will
probably not take over ten minutes at the most
to get it perfectly straight and parallel with
or at right angles to the edge of your garden
or the side of the house or the sidewalk—
whichever is the most natural line to go by in
laying out your garden. That first row will
determine the general appearance of the entire
garden; make it straight and true.

Tf you have a right angle to make, here is
a simple method of determining whether you
have it exact or not. Measure off 6’ from the
corner along one line, and 8’ from the corner
along the other. If it is a true right angle, the
diagonal between the two points should measure
exactly 10’. If it does not, you can adjust one
side or the other until the angle in question is
a true one.

The actual getting of the seed into the soil
is the next thing to be done. There are four
distinct kinds of planting: in drills, in rows,
in hills, and transplanting or setting out plants
which have been started from seed sown in-
doors or in the hotbed.

“Drills” are plants grown in a continuous
row so close together that no effort is made to
have them at regular distances, or to cultivate
between the individual plants. Radishes,
spinach and many other things familiar to
everyone are grown by this method. ‘‘Rows’”’
signify that the plants are set at regular dis-
tances apart, but so close together that cultiva-
tion is done only in one direction, except for
the use of the hand hoe or rake. Cabbages,
peppers and potatoes are familiar examples
of vegetables grown in rows. By “hills” is
meant the setting of the vegetables so far apart
in both directions that cultivation is given both
ways, and each group of plants or “hill” is
treated as an individual unit. Familiar ex-
amples of vegetables grown in this way are
melons, sweet corn and pole beans.

Most of the vegetables planted in drills are
root crops and do not need very much space
between the rows. If the soil is poor, a hand-
ful of ground bone along the bottom of each
20’ of drill is advisable.

A thorough manuring and fertilizing of the
whole area planted is worth while before sow-
ing vegetables in rows, with a little extra where
each plant is to be. Hills are usually enriched
as units. The soil in them should be especially
prepared for a space of 18” to 24” across and
6” or more deep.

All this preliminary work with the soil has
a definite bearing on the size, quality and
general development of the vegetable crop. As
to the dates and depths of planting, the quan-
tities of seed for given spaces, and other specific
details about the various things ordinarily
grown in the home garden, a tabulation will be
found in the vegetable guide on another page
of this book.

CLL

Onion sets are planted in
drills. Put them about 2”
apart in the row

A wide drill, as for
peas, is made with the
hoe blade held flat

Sow small seed direct
from the hand, held
close to the drill

Cover the wide drill
from both sides, push-
ing in the soil with
the feet

Cover the first plant-
ing of peas about 1”
deep, in a wide drill

The back of a wooden
rake is excellent for
covering shallow drills

Then turn the rake as
shown at the right, to
firm down the soil

Use a wooden rake for
the final smoothing
of soil before sowing

(Below) Use a board to stand

on, so as not to make tracks in
the soil

94

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The first 50' of the planted area, in which the short season crops are so arranged that when they are harvested their places will be
taken by plantings of others. The grouping of the pole beans, corn and tomatoes at one end eliminates the hindrance which
their shade would be were it to fall on the smaller growing vegetables

ee Ow

STAGES = of

the

GAR DE

A Graphic Portrayal of What Cross Sections of the Vegetable Area Should Be at
Monthly Intervals During the Active Growing Season

ISUALIZING a whole vegetable garden

is no easy task—real visualizing, that is,
in which a worm’s-eye as well as a bird’s-eye
view of each and all the rows is presented.
Difficult as is the undertaking, however, it
must be attempted if you would have a garden
of one hundred per cent productiveness, for the
simple reason that all of the ground must be
kept working all of the time. There must be
no waste of either time or space. To accom-
plish this a knowledge of each row’s condition
throughout the season is essential; hence the
necessity for visualizing.

All this may seem an unnecessary sort of ex-
ploitation of orderliness, but those who have
had much experience in gardening know the
dire consequences of trying to raise vegetables
on a hit-or-miss plan. Not only does the dis-
ordered garden spell small yields and waste of
seed as well as space, but its very disarray puts
a premium on neglect. One cannot take much
pride in a tangle of beans, carrots and corn
interlaced with pea vines and weeds, nor gather
full crops from its jungle depths. Disease and
insect pests flourish unchecked in such a gar-
den, too often extending their depredations to
the neighbor’s domain across the fence and
causing him unwarranted loss.

In depicting garden layouts the usual method
is to show a ground plan of the arrangement
as it appears from above. However detailed
and explanatory such plans may be they are
not really graphic—they lack the worm’s-eye
perspective. In an attempt to overcome their
deficiencies the garden chart shown here was
developed.

Imagine, for the moment, that it is May 15th
and that you are looking simultaneously at the’
topmost horizontal line of the chart on this
page and down the rows of your vegetable gar-
den-as-it-should-be. You are facing the south,
with the east at your left and at your right
the west, because the planted rows run north
and south for the sake of an even distribution
of sunlight through the day. Thus placed you
can see only the first plant in each row, but
others are beyond, extending in orderly lines
for 50’ or more like soldiers standing at atten-
tion in ‘“‘company front.”

Beginning at the left or east end of the gar-
den, then, you notice that the first 18” of space
(each of the vertical divisions of the chart rep-
resents 1’) are unoccupied. Then comes the
first row—pole bean seedlings under portable
glass forcers, for the season is early yet and
beans need heat. Another 18” to the west is a

row of onion sets, and next to it, at the same
distance, the pole limas, also under glass. Spin-
ach, young tomato plants and the rest follow in
their order and at proper intervals as you fol-
low the line to the west end of the garden, 100’
away at the right side of page 95. The late
peas and much of the main corn crop do not

show above ground as yet, for they have just —

been planted. Throughout the whole 100’ you
will notice that the spacing of the rows depends
upon such points as cultivation requirements,
the size and habit of the mature plants, and the
length of the period through which they occupy
the ground.

One month later, on the line below, growth
has correspondingly advanced. The first spin-
ach, radishes, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, beets,
lettuce, turnip, kohlrabi and carrots are ready
for use, and within the next month their places
will usually be taken either by succession plant-
ings or sowings of late season crops. In the
cases of the onion row between the pole beans
and the limas, the spinach between the limas
and the tomatoes, and the radishes between
the two rows of tomatoes, the growth of the
flanking vegetables is such that by July 15th
it heavily shades the intervening spaces. For
this reason intercrops are chosen which will

1

:

— ew: .-

il

Book of Gardens

95

PEAS Tall late

CORN Golden: Bantam—
CORN Golden Bantam
CUCUMBER

CORN Afedium

CORN Medium

OKRA.-

ae

SQUASH Winter
CORN
CORN
—CORN
MUSK MELON

|

MUSK MELON
WATER MELON
SQUASH Bush

Above is the other half of the garden, adjoining that on the opposite page. Two and a half feet is the space represented between

the Swiss chard row on that page and the line of tall late peas.

be out of the way before this shade becomes
too dense.

Certain of the plants shown are, of course,
started in “flats” or seed boxes, and trans-
planted later to the places they occupy on the
plan. Among these are the tomatoes, radishes,
cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce. The melons
and squash particularly should have well en-
riched soil. A good method of handling them
is to plant the seeds late in April where they
are to grow, and cover them with portable
glass-topped frames which will give them a
higher temperature and can be removed as the
weather grows warmer and the need for them
gradually ceases.

The July 15th stage finds the garden yield-
ing crops while at the same time twenty-odd
feet are devoted to newly planted vegetables.
These latter occupy the space which has been
vacated by the cabbage, cauliflower, peas, early
beets and carrots, lettuce and kohlrabi. Here
is an example of succession planting, a prin-
ciple whose intelligent application is essential
to the garden of 100 per cent productiveness.
“Keeping the ground at work” connotes the
maximum yield of vegetables, which can be
obtained only by carefully planning for con-
tinuous succession.

By the middle of August the whole garden is
carrying its full load, for the melons and other
vine crops have so nearly attained their growth
that they have spread over all the surface al-
lotted to them. The development of the other
rows is so clearly shown on the chart that it
requires no further detailed explanation here.

chart—1' to each of the vertical divisions

A careful study of the allotment of space to
the various vegetables will repay, because the
distances between rows are the minimum which
can exist in the successful garden. Where the
available space is less limited, somewhat larger
spaces may be permitted, though they will avail
little except in making for greater ease in cul-
tivation. In this connection it is well to re-
member that too wide spaces between the rows
give an opportunity for weeds to develop which
only extra cultivation of the ground can hold
in check.

Another point to note is the grouping of most
of the taller and more spreading crops at the
ends of the garden, thus leaving the central
portion for a concentration of smaller things.
The chief reason for this is that the tall growers
are mainly long-season crops which cast con-
siderable shade in which lesser vegetables could
not thrive. The grouping of the corn and
melons results from the fact that these vege-
tables succeed well in close proximity to each
other—in fact, the melons, cucumbers and
squashes can overrun the corn rows without
detriment to anything concerned.

No provision has been made for the small
fruits, herbs or such things as asparagus, which
require specially prepared soil in an area all
to themselves. For reasons which need not be
gone into here it is inadvisable to combine
plantings of vegetables and cane fruits. The
latter should constitute another garden, or else
be used merely around the borders of the vege-
table area where their roots will not interfere
with the cultivation of the soil in which the

The scale of feet is the same throughout both halves of the

annual plants are growing. The same rule
applies to fruit trees; and as for strawberries,
they need a section quite their own. The space
needed for the herbs, of course, is so limited
that they may be planted almost anywhere
around the edges where there is an unoccupied
bit of ground.

Potatoes, it will be noted, have not been in-
cluded in this hypothetical garden. While
these vegetables are usually the first thing that
the beginning gardener thinks of growing, they
should by no means be his first actual choice
in the majority of cases. Great as has been the
popularity of potatoes, the fact remains that
growing them has decided drawbacks. Failure
to appreciate these has brought about innumer-
able disappointments, to say nuching of the
waste of time, space and seed.

Potatoes cannot be simply planted in any old
piece of ground and expected to grow properly.
For one thing they need considerable room, as
well as prompt and thorough cultivation at the
right times. They are subject, also, to attacks
by insects which will quite destroy the plants if
spraying is postponed or done in a half-hearted
sort of way. In certain seasons—sometimes
apparently because of the weather, and at
other times for no evident reason at all—the
plants will be struck by blight which may
seriously injure the crop if it does not actually
destroy it. For the returns to be commensu-
rate with the labor involved, soil and weather
conditions must be right, and you must un-
derstand and be able to give the attention
demanded.

Complete in two reels—the
story of starting seeds, begin-

ning with drainage

GILWiILNG .~ 2 He

down

The soil is put in and firmed
with
glass tumbler or measure

Then the seed is

the bottom of a

GAR DEIN A

scattered
on the surface direct from the
containing envelope

RUNNING

The measure comes in again
to press the seed lightly down
into the soil surface

STAR

Vegetable Seed Planting Indoors So As to Produce Thrifty Crops Two Weeks

“RANTED a hotbed or a sunny window
in the house in which to plac e them, the
first essential in starting vegetable seeds espe-
cially early in the season is proper soil. It
should be light and very finely pulverized so
thac the tiny roots can penetrate it readily.
Special enrichment, however, is not necessary
in fact, should be avoided.

Next come the ‘flats’ or shallow boxes in
which the soil is to be placed. These should
be 2” or 3” deep, with holes protected by bits
of broken crock in the bottom to provide for
the escape of any surplus water which may
work down through the soil. Whether the soil
is put in flats, or directly in the hotbed, it
should have under it a layer of some coarse,
porous material like cinders or sphagnum moss,
to make the drainage more quick and certain.

in Advance of the Ordinary Season

In filling the flats, care should be taken to
press the soil in firmly. Then water it thor-
oughly, after which it sHould be left until dry
enough to mark off on the surface with a small
stick a number of very shallow rows about
2” apart for the seeds.

Seeds such as cabbage and lettuce should
be covered only 1” deep; beets may go a
little deeper; fine flower seeds should be gently
pressed down into the soil surface and barely
dusted over with soil.

For several days after planting the tempera-
ture where the flats are should not fall below
55° at night and 10° or so more during the
day. This high temperature tends to dry the
soil out quickly, so glass may be laid over the
tops of the flats to conserve the moisture.

Once the little seedlings have broken ground,

they should have a few degrees lower tempera-
ture, abundant sunlight and plenty of fresh
air. Every morning, unless there is a severe
storm, the windows (or sash, if the flats are
in a hotbed or coldframe) should be opened
enough to give a complete change of air without
subjecting the tiny plants to a cold draft. The
temperature should never be above 70° or 80°
for any length of time, and watering must be
done with a very fine spray in the early fore-
noon of bright days.

Transplanting to other flats should be done
when the second true leaves appear. The seed-
lings should be set 2” or 3” apart each way.
Move them very carefully so as not to break
their rootlets. Before they are set out in the
open garden they must be gradually “hardened
off” by giving more and more fresh, cool air.

Fine soil is then sifted on top Watering with a clean spray When the seedlings reach The first transplanting is into
so as to cover the seed com gun follows, the fine spray not transplanting size, they are a flat which holds them while
pletely from sight disturbing the soil moved with a flat stick hardening-off

January

Continuous bearing

greenhouse vegeta-

bles should be mulch-
ed with manure

Trench stored celery
should be protected
so that water can-
not penetrate to it

Book of Gardens

THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR

SUNDAY | MONDAY | TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY |

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

This calendar of the gardener’s labors is
aimed as a reminder for undertaking all his

tasks in season.

It is fitted to the latitude

of the Middle States, but its service should
be available for the whole country if it be
remembered that for every one hundred
miles north or south there is a difference
of from five to seven days later or earlier

in performing garden

operations.

The

dates given are, or course, for an average

season.

eee Omnot
neglect to
mulch thor-
oughly all the
late plantings
of bulbs, peren-
nials and other
soft plants.
Coarse manure
is the material
preferred for
this purpose.
Leaves or any
light stuff may
be used, how-
ever, if manure
cannot be had.

2, Spraying
of dormant
trees and
shrubs may be
practiced
throughout the
winter months.
Any of the
soluble oil
sprays may be
used for scale
and other bark
infections
Stronger solu-
tions may be
used now than
later.

3. New land
that is in-
tended tor
growing pur-
poses can be
made ready for
plowing by
burning the
long grass while
itis dry. This is
also excellent
treatment for
the grass grow-
ing in orchards
and bordering
cultivated
fields, etc.

4. Don’t ne-
glect to keep
up regular
sowings in the
greenhouse otf
those crops
which require
frequent plant-
ings to assure a
supply. Beans,
cauliflower, let-
tuce, radishes,
spinach, etce.,
are all true
croppers and
may be planted
in this way.

5. It is not
a good _ prac-
tice to allow
leaves to lie on
the lawn all
winter. They
should be
raked into piles
and carted to
some corner
where they can
be composted.
They are far
too valuable to
be burned, as
is only too
often done.

6. House
plants must
have some
attention at
this time; the
pores oF
breathing o1-
gans become
clogged with
dust. Sponge
the foliage
with a good
soap solution
in lukewarm
water, with a
little tobacco
extract in it.

7. Why not
make a small
plan of your
place to scale.
You can then
chart any
changes intelli-
gently, mark
the location of
water pipes,
waste lines, and
other informa-
tion that it is
often necessary
to know
quickly and
accurately.

8. Crops that
have been
growing in the
greenhouse for
any consider-
able time
should be
mulched. Pure
cow manure is
the best ma-
terial for this
purpose; sever-
al inches of it
should be ap-
plied to the
benches where
the plants are.

9. Chicory
and rhubarb
can be forced
under the
benches in the
greenhouse.
Use a drop cur-
tain to exclude
the light. The
roots may also
be grown in
any warm cel-
lar. Mush-
rooms, too,
may be grown
in similar situ-
ations.

10. It is a
bad practice to
scrape the
bark from
trees, as a con-
siderable
amount of the
live bark will
be injured.
When the bark
is moss grown
it can be
cleaned by
scrubbing
it well with a
stiff, hard bris-
tled brush.

1l. Plants
that are being
wintered in
frames require
air and light
occasionally or
they will be-
come soft and
yellow. Open
up the frames
on every
bright day, and
always water
them in the
morning so the
plants will be
dry at night.

12. Bean
poles and pea
brush are
necessary ac-
cessories of the
productive
garden. Why
not gather
some now while
other outdoor
work is slack.
Do not put it
off until spring,
or in the rush
of other prepa-
ration it may
be omitted.

13. While
the ground is
frozen it is a
good practice
to get the man-
ure into your
garden. This
will prevent
the cutting up
of the borders
with the wagon
wheels. Be-
sides, the fer-
tilizing quality
of manure
improves
with age.

14. Heavy
mulchings that
are applied for
frost pro-
tection, or the
loose coverings
over vegetable
trenches,
should be
loosened up
with a fork or
they will get
matted down
and be of com-
paratively lit-
tle value to the
plants beneath.

15. What
about cold-
frames for your
garden this
coming spring?
You can easily
build the
frames your-
self, but the
sash must be
ordered now or
you won't have
them in time
Remember
that the early
cold-frame
is the best.

16. Potatoes
and Other
stored root
crops should be
picked over
and any bad
tubers re-
moved. In
very dly cel-
lars where the
tubers are like-
ly to shrivel
they can be
covered with
salt hay or
straw to ex-
clude the air.

17. During
severe freezing
weather large
trees can be
transplanted
with absolute
safety. Dig
them with good
sized balls of
earth around
their roots and
let them treeze
hard before
moving. A
stone-boat can
be used for
transportation.

18. While
the trees and
shrubs are dor-
mant caterpil-
lar nests and
egg masses of
various insects
are readily
discernible
Burn the nests
with a torch of
kerosene-
soaked rags,
and paint the
egg masses
with a solution
of creosote.

19. Before
spring all the
fruit trees
must be
looked over
earefully and
every mummi-
fied fruit re-
moved. These
diseased,
shriveled fruits
are the breed-
ing places of
many of our
insect enemies,
andtheyshould
be burned.

20. Authori-
ties state that
placing food for
our useful win-
ter birds will
not result in
their giving up
their valuable
activities of
weed, seed and
noxious insect
hunting. Regu-
lar feeding
means more
birds and
greater eco-
nomic benefit.

21. Have you
a small fruit
border around
your garden?
Raspberries,
blackberries,
currants and
gooseberries
are a necessary
part of a good
garden, and
this is the time
to plan where
they can best
be put in when
actually spring
opens.

22. A good
grape arbor is
both attractive
and remunera-
tive. Build the
arbor substan-
tially and buy
only good vari-
eties of grapes
for it. Trench
the ground be-
neath the ar-
bor so that the
plants will
grow and pro-
duce abun-
dantly.

23. Plants
that are grow-
ing in the
house’ should
be top dressed
occasionally
with some sort
of concentrat-
ed plant food.
Prepared
plant foods
come for this
purpose that
are excellent
and odorless.
Your dealer
will have them.

24. While
the vines are
dormant is an
excellent time
to take them
down for any
painting that
may be neces-
sary on build-
ings or fences
where they are
growing.
Necessary re-
pairs should be
made before
replacing the
vines.

25. All edged
tools should be
looked over
now and those
that need it
must be
sharpened.
Lawn mowers
that are in
need of repairs
ought to be at-
tended to at
this time, and
if the wheel-
hoe needs tink-
ering it should
be fixed.

26. Have you
ever given
more than a
pass in g
thought to
your garden
soil? Your
State agricul-
tural college
will make a soil
test for you,
perhaps free of
charge, saving
you many dol-
lars in wasted
fertilization.
Write to them.

See EE

27. Have you
ever figured
the loss in your
garden from
summer
droughts.
Checkmate the
dry weather
with one of the
good irrigating

ystems that

re on the mar-
ket. Order it
now, before the
rush; it can be
installed later
in the year.

28. Dahlia
bulbs. should
be looked over
at this time,
as you can tell
now how they
are going to
keep. If they
are shriveling,
cover them
with sand; if
they show
signs of start-
ing into growth
they should be
kept in a cooler
place

29. All kinds
of hardy plants
that require it
can be pruned
at this time.
Young fruit
trees should be
pruned severe-
ly, while trees
that have at-
tained fruiting
size need only
very moderate
reducing. It is
well to look
them all over
now.

30. It will
soon be time to
start hotbeds
for the early
vegetables and
flowers. Fresh
manure must
be used for this
purpose; it
would be a
good policy to
start gathering
it now, so as to
have plenty
when the time
comes for using
it.

31. Many
evergreens are
damaged every
winter by al-
lowing wet,
heavy snows to
accumulate on
their branches,
breaking them
down. Take a
wooden rake
and shake the
trees gently to
remove the
snow after
every heavy
storm.

What are
these maples
and beeches
and birches but
odes and idyls
and ‘madzvigals?
What are these
pines and firs
and spruces but
holy hymns?

—Oliver
Wendell
Holmes

LIZA says it ain’t right, with high prices tellin’ us to save all the food we kin, but I ain’t goin’ to quit

fceedin’ the wild rabbits this winter.

I raised quite a batch of extry carrots fcr “em last summer, out

back of the cow barn—'Liza called tt my rabbit garden—an’ saved all the knotty late apples that weren’t

First Month

Hvyacinths, narcissus

and other bulbs

may be lifted and
brought indoors

Old croquet wickets
can be utilized to
hold the leaf mulch
over small plantings

97

good for nothin’ else. Now that they’s-two foot of snow on the ground, an’ it’s colder’n a February moon,
I kinder like to feel that them little cottontailed devils ain't got empty stomachs. It's pretty hard sleddin’
for ’em this weather—you kin tell that by the mess of fresh tracks in the snow around the house every
mornin’, where they been huntin’ for food. Didn't take the furry little cusses long to find where I’d put
the carrots an’ nubbins on the bare ground under the front piazza, though, an’ now they hold mass mectin’s
there reg’lar every night. Mebbe it’s waste, but—-well, I dunno but what it'll be forgiven me.

—Old Doc Lemmon.

Liquid fertilizer is
simply prepared by
placing a sack of
manure in water

Plenty of sod and
straw covering for
the root pit will
keep out the frost

Straw mats are excellent covers for cold

frames. They can be bought from supply

men; or if you have enough long-fibered
straw you can make them yourself

Cuttings from
grapes and green-
house fruit trees
should be taken now

A good tomato trellis pays for itself in im-

proved yield. It is a good plan to make

one this winter, building it in sections to
facilitate handling

To retain the white-
ness of the cauli-
flower heads, break
the leaves over them

gardener’s implements is

wheel hoe. The single-wheel
type comes with attachme

for covering, hilling, cultivat
and making drills

The most useful of the vegetable

the

nts
ing

A sprayer is essential to insect

and disease control. This

one

operates by compressed air and be
comes with a brass tank. Reel

and line and pruning shears
also garden requisites

Rakes there must be, of

large one with wooden te

bow is for lawn work.

narrow style for narrow
cuffle hoe is an excellent

are

course. The
eth and steel
The regular
teel type is for pulverizing soil and the

work. The
weeding tool

PEE BiG WE Nee

IN GARDEN

TOOLS

House & Garden’s

Spade, hoe and spading fork—

the three musketeers of the gar-

den. In buying implements of

this kind, buy the best and see

that they are always kept clean
and ready for work

The advantage of a
double wheel hoe is
that it can work on
both sides of a
row simultaneously.
This type comes
with all the neces-
sary attachments

A
3
&
.

Book of Gardens 09

February THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR Second Month

SUNDAY MONDAY | TUESDAY | wepnespay | THURSDAY | FRIDAY SATURDAY

a Uru eats 1. Better
eam C . 3 get out the

liberal ee This calendar of the gardener’s labors is aimed as a re- sashes for the
ea cu nae minder for undertaking all his tasks in season. It is fitted Oe Sen
g s cold-frame,and

aos or dis- to the latitude of the Middle States, but its service should a GH ene
, . ° e a ZOO
So juaved the be available for the whole country if it be remembered condition.
pine-tree 2 9 Broken glass
eon that for every one hundred miles north or south there is a aay eee ae

my thought difference of from five to seven days later or earlier in placing, and
And fanned the f. . d . . the wood
ASGGEBS Ao performing garden operations. The dates given are, of SInVOTULTaNe Dye:

never brought. course, for an average season. painted to pro-
tect it from

—Emerson. the weather.

2. No one 3. All plants 4. Plant 5. Have 6. Summer 7. Have you 8. Have you
can garden that have been stakes are you ordered flowering bulbs progressed any pruned your
well with dull in the same necessary evils; your supply of such as cannas, further than fruit trees?
or poor quality pots for any we all wish seeds? They gladioli, dah- your mind They will pro-
tools. Thisisthe considerable that the plants should be on lias, caladium, with that rose duce if left in
time to do any time, such as would not re- hand now. An ete., should be garden you a natural
repairing that palms and oth- quire support- old bread tin looked over have been con- state, but not
= may be neces- er decorative ing, but they makes a good carefully. Ex- sidering all nearly so well.
Foliage trees may sary. All edged th FS ngs. | do, and we | mouse - proof | cessive heat or | these years? Good fruit is The stakes and
ae H ools must be | shoul e re- must accom- storage for wi Sach year that | Droduce
be trimmed this sharpened; | potted before modate them. them. Don't | start theminto |’ you ‘postpone | only where in- poles for tomatoes
month, before the Kerosene and | their active Order stakes let the seeds | growth; damp- | establishing it | telligent prun- and beans may be
2 b grease will growing season now. If you get damp a ness with a low means that ing is prac-
sap 7v1Ses check the rust Starts. Top ean’t do_ this, cool, dry place temperature you are losing ticed, so your J cut now
on all the metal dressing is the cut some in the is the ideal is apt to cause just that much labor will be
parts. alternative. woods. storage. decay. pleasure. well repaid.

9. Decid- 10) Riera ll. Bay 12, Have 13. If you La Seletnlis 15. Start to
uous trees and brush, bean trees, hydran- your trees like golf you much easier to prepare your
shrubs also re- poles and to- geas, oranges looked over should have a overhaul your hotbed now.
quire pruning | mato stakes and other | carefully tode- | practice green | lawn mower | At_ least 12
to keep them | are necessities plants of this | termine their | constructed on | now in the | inches of good
in good health. of a productive type that are true condition. your grounds garage than it hot manure
Early flower- | garden. A few used for decor- It takes a life- | in Some | will be next | will be neces-
ing subjects hours spent ation outside time to grow screened cor- summer on the sary for mak-
such as_ the with an axe in in the summer good trees but ner where you lawn. At least ing it. Tramp
lilac or spireas the woods will should be they are sub- can practice the gear boxes this firm and
are best furnish you looked over to ject to injuries when you want must be cover it with
pruned after with these see if the tubs of many kinds. to. Sow it with cleaned out about 4 inches
they have fin- needed acces- will stand up A little tree fescue and and repacked of good garden
ished flowering sories. Gather throwgzh surgery at the creeping bent with vaseline, soil that has
along in the them before another sea- right time will S! and the other been well
spring. they leaf out. son's use. save them. ant be bearings oiled. screened.

16. Start 17. Have 18. Now 19. If you 20. No gar- 21. Stock 22. Have
sowings now in you studied that spring isso cannot afford a den is com- plants of all you ever given
the greenhouse the merits of a near let us greenhouse plete without kinds of bed- a thought to
‘of the hardy fruit border? think again of there are nu- some well se- ding subjects the comforts of
vegetables No place is greenhouse merous styles lected and should now be our greatest
such as cab- complete with- construction. of plant pro- properly ar- started into ac- garden friends
_bage, cauli- out one. Rasp- Greenhouses tectors that are ranged garden tive growth so the birds?
flower, lettuce, berries, cur- certainly raise helpful to gar- furniture. In that the neces- Why not get
celery, toma- rants, goose- the standard of dening. They formal garden- sary quantity a few houses
toes, etc. Use berries, black- any grounds, should be or- | ing pottery is of cuttings will where the birds
flats pod seed perros, erapes py hetner they dered now, as NeLY ME CESSALY, ben ready for can na a
pans for great- | —all these e for fruit or eir greatest o the com- | taking when atl or the , a
Why not sume rasp- er convenience, make excellent flowers. Early value is in the pleteness of the the proper birds will give Cur rants and g00se
berries or other and provide border plants planning early season. scheme. Make time for them even more berries may be
= plenty of for the gar- means fewer Glass ones are your selection comes in the pleasure to you d
cane fruits around drainage. den. errors. excellent. and order now. | spring. than to them. Spraye now for

the garden? scale, etc.

23. Before 24. Sweet _ 25. Flower- 26. Garden 27. All dor- 28. Sprays There is no
work is started peas may be ing plants of arbors as they mant trees and of all the early peace for the
outside you Started now in all kinds that are now made | shrubs that are flowering blowing leaf,
should make the hotbed or are wanted for are very attrac- subject to the spring shrubs a
aninventory of | greenhouse. Easter must be | tive and neces- | attacks of San | can be cut and The end of his
your tools. Paper pots are started into ac- sary accessories Jose scale placed in water journey he
Any new ones excellent for tive growth. of the garden. should be in the house never knows;
necessary must them. After By postponing If you wish to sprayed with where the He lifts from
be ordered the seeds have this and then enjoy them this one of the solu- flowers will the ground
now Tool de- germinated the trying to rush summer they ble oils. Trees quickly de- with an up-
signs keep on plants must be them along the should be or- that are al- velop. Pussy ward heave;
being im- kept rather plants are in- dered now, as ready infested willow, golden O les
proved as well | cool to prevent variably grown | well as the | must have at | bell, Japan h le tie eed
as other | their getting too warm and | roses or other | least two | quince, etc., rs a Cae
things, so look | soft and weak in many cases vines for them. | thorough | ean be forced or, blows.
them over. stemmed. ruined. sprayings. in this way. —Harry Kemp.

d pretty near all the time since last Wednesday—an’
this mornin’ I druv the wood sled up on the mounting fer a load o’ logs. By jing, it was great—all blue
an’ white an’ sparkly, same as a Christmas card. There warn’'t a breath of air stirrin’, an’ the clouds—wa’'l,
sir, it fair hurt yer eyes to look at ’em, they was so durn white an’ still an’ kinder overpowerin’; pilin’ up
into the sky, ye know, from behind the hills like in a picture. Clouds are blame human sorter things, any-
how. Some’s skinny an’ gray an’ old lookin’, an’ they gener’ly makes ye mighty low-spirited. Others ‘re
reg lar high thers, feather-headed little critters that make ye feel like whistlin’; they’re fair weather clouds,
an’ they ain’t got a care in the world. Then ther’s the dull, weepy kind, no character at all; an’ them that’s
always in a hurry; an’ the blusterin’, thundery ones that growl like they was goin’ to kill ev’rybody in sight
an’ then edge past without really doin’ nothin’ to speak of. An’ they all come an’ change an’ grow fat er i
Late this month thin an’ finally disappear, an’ we never see ’em again. —Old Doc Lemmon. : Proper attention to

Sow sweet peas un- wounds, etc., is es-
der glass for later sential to the health
garden effects of trees

HE first clear day we've had in a week—it’s snowe

When preparing the seed box or flat, use When they have made their first true leaf When the forcing bulbs have fully developed
plenty of drainage material such as oyster the young plants should be transplanted, set- in the greenhouse they should be moved to
shells or broken crocks ting them about 2” apart a cool, dark place

100 House & Garden’s

1. Dig the soil 2. Walk backward and smooth - - .
deeper each the ground with a wooden rake ft “4 . oc 5. A Share aiet ee oi Pn 4. For the medi-
year. A fork may eer a. . : abel makes the smau dayi as Bie oe

10 the raw

be used in well
worked gardens hoe on edge so as
to use its end

5. In making the 7
wide drill for 4 mht TS 6. Lettuce and similar seeds
peas the whole : - are sown in narrow drills
width of the hoe t , ! direct from the envelope

is utilized 5

7. The medium
sized drill is the
one to make for
planting bush

i ree ses, g00; con 9 Bask as should go 10. In the wide drill 11. Corn, pumpkins, cu-
ye planted in the dri in double rows in the peas are sown broad- cumbers, melons, etc.,
of medium size. This wide drill. Planted thus, HOW £O PLANT cast to assure a good are sown in hills. The
entails considerably less they will make a well row. After the plants soi in the hills should
labor than making in- filled line. Artificial SEE DS are well above ground be thoroughly culti-
dividual holes for them, supports are unneces- they may be thinned out vated several inches

and the results are good ary for bush varieties if the row is crowded deep and well enriched

Book of Gardens

Now is the time to
Start putting in cut-
tings of the bedding

The

plants

manure mulch

on the lawn should

be

raked up and
carted away

SUNDAY

MONDAY

GARDENER’S CALENDAR

TUESDAY | WEDNESDaY | THURSDAY

FRIDAY

30. Most of
the diseases to
which potatoes
are heir are
caused by dry,
hot weather.
Potatoes like
cool, moist soil.
Prepare a piece
of ground and
plant them
now, Or as soon
as the soil can
be worked. An
early start
makes success.

31. Rhubarb
should now be
showing some
growth. Bar-
rels placed over
the plants will
give earlier and
better stalks.
Beds that were
not mulched
should have a
good applica-
tion of manure
dug into them
at about this
time.

2. All the
necessary
pruning must
be attended to
now. Foliage
trees and
shrubs, all the
flowering types
that blossom
on the term-
inals of the
new growth,
such as roses
and fruits of all
kinds require
attention.

3. Chrysan-
themums for
next fall must
be propagated
now. If the
space is avail-
able it is a good
practice to put
in a batch of
cuttings every
four weeks un-
til June to as-
sure a_ long
period of
bloom in the
autumn.

9. Where
absolutely ne-
cessary, bay
trees, hydran-
geas and other
ornamental
plants should
be re-tubbed.
Others can be
Te-fertilized by
digging out
some of the old
soil with a
trowel and fill-
ing in with a
tich mixture.

10. Cannas,
especially the
newer or better
types, should
be divided by
cutting the
eyes separate-
ly. They can
then be rooted
by placing in
sharp sand, or
they may be
potted up in a
very light soil
mixture if you
prefer.

This calendar of the gardener’s labors is
aimed as a reminder for undertaking all his
tasks in season. It is fitted to the latitude
of the Middle States, but its service should
be available for the whole country if it be
remembered that for every one hundred
miles north or south there is a difference
of from five to seven days later or earlier
in performing garden operations. The
dates given are, of course, for an average
season.

4. Asparagus
is one vege-
table that
starts growth
very early, so
dig the winter
mulch under
now, hill up the
rows on the old
plantings, and
apply salt lib-
erally to_ the
bed. New
plantings
Should be
Started now.

But now the
moon's a ghost
in silver mail,

As, blowing
through a
storm of stars,
the earth

Dips downward
into dawn, de-

with

g
Sunlight which
is the golden
laugh of God.

—Harry Kemp

5. All new
plantings of
hardy stock
must be set
out. The earlier
in the planting
season this is
done the less
losses you will
have. Just as
soon as the
frost leaves the
ground is the
proper time for
work of this
sort.

6. Changes
of all kinds
where the mov-
ing of plants,
sod, hedges,
ete., is in-
volved must be
carried into ex-
ecution at
once. This also
applies to gar-
den walks
which, if
altered in early
spring will set-
tle by summer.

11. Sowing
of all the more
common types
of annual flow-
ers should be
attended to
now. Asters,
zinnias, calen-
dula, balsams,
salvia, —mari-
gold, scabiosa,
pansies, stocks,
ete., are some
of the many
varieties that
may beplanted.

12. Have
you everything
in readiness for
the opening of
the big garden
drive next
month? Seeds,
garden line,
plant labels,
measuring
stick, pea
brush. bear
poles and
tomato — sup-
ports are a few
essentials.

16. Specimen
trees of all
types that are
not growing
satisfactorily
can _be invigor-
ated by cutting
a& trench en-
tirely around
the tree about
four feet
from the trunk
and filling it in
with good rich
earth well
tamped down.

17. This is
the time to
think of flowers
for next winter
in the_green-
house. Primula
of the Chinese
or Obconica
type, cyclamen
and antirrhin-
um are three of
the best sorts.
They should be
Started from
seed now under
glass.

18. _ Before
the buds burst
on the devidu-
ous trees and
shrubs, the
whole growth
should be
looked over
earefully for
any caterpillar
nests, which
can easily be
destroyed by
burning with-
out injuring
the plants.

19. Small
fruits of the
different types
can be planted
now. Grapes,
raspberries,
blackberries,
ete., can be
trained on wire
trellises, or
stakes may be
used. The lat-
ter are neater
und more eco-
nomical of
space.

23. All the
various garden
tools will soon
be in use regu-
larly. Are they
in proper con-
dition? Good
work is impos-
sible with poor
or dull tools.
Go over all the
implements,
removing any
rust and sharp-
ening the
cutting edges.

24. The top
protection on
the rose bushes
can now be re-
moved; dig the
winter mulch
of manure well
under. A _ lib-
eral applica-
tion of bone
meal to the soil
will produce
worth-while re-
sults during the
flowering sea-
son.

25. Sweet
peas may be
sown out of
doors now. Dig
trenches about
two feet deep
and the width
of aspade. Fill
the trench with
good top soil
and manure
well mixed and
sow the seed
about two
inches below
the surface.

26. Boards,
straw, burlap,
cornstalks and
other winter
covering ma-
terials for box-
wood and such
tender _ plants
must be re-
moved now. If
possible, select
dull, cloudy
weather for
carrying on
this operation
important.

13. Better
make arrange-
ments now to
use your green-
house for some
useful purpose
this summer.
Potted fruits,
ehrysanthe-
mums, melons.
English forcing
cucumbers,
etc., are some
of the many
possible prod-
ucts,

20. All the
best varieties
of dahlia roots
should be
started into
growth so that
cuttings can be
made of those
desired. If the
roots are laid
upon a_ few
inches of sand
and watered
freely they will
soon start into
growth.;

27. Mulches
of all kinds ap-
plied to shrub-
bery borders,
perennial
plantings, flow-
er beds, etc.,
should be dug
under. In doing
this, get the
manure as deep
as possible and
see that it is
thoroughly in-
incorporated
with the soil.

SATURDAY

ifs If you
have not al-
ready planted
them, seeds of
cabbage, cauli-
flower, celery,
parsley, let-
tuce, tomatoes,
egg-plant, pep-
pers, leek and
onions should
be sown. See
page 41 for de-
tailed informa-
tion on this
work.

7. Cuttings
of all the vari-
ous types of
bedding plants
should be
started in sand
in the green-
house early
this month.
Coleus, geran-
iums, lantana,
heliotrope, ag-
eratum, — etc.,
are some which
come under
this heading.

8. All the
exotic plants,
such as kentias
dracaenas,
cocos, arecas,
etc., should be
re- potted at
this time. Use
pots about 1-
inch larger
than the plants
now occupy.
The soil must
be light, con-
taining plenty
of leaf mold.

14. Any
changes in old
plantings or
new plants
contempiated
for the peren-
nial border
should be fin-
ished up at the
earliest mo-
ment. Those
which are
planted early
in the season
will flower late
this summer.

15. Makea
habit of heel-
ing in your nur-
sery stock the
instant -it ar-
rives. Stock
that is allowed
to lie around in
the wind and
sun is certain
to show heavy
losses, because
its roots will be
dried out and
the — smaller
ones will die.

21. If you
are considering
new lawns this
spring get the
ground ready
for seeding just
as soon as it
can be worked.
Early sowings
will prove to be
much freer of
weeds than
those which are
made during
the summer
months.

28. Manure
applied to
lawns last fall
must now be
raked up. All
lawns should
be raked clean
and rolled or
tamped. A top
dressing of
wood ashes and
bone meal will
help to produce
a good vigor-
ous growth of
grass.

22. The cov-
ering on the
strawberries
should be re-
moved and
burned and the
manure mulch
can be dug un-
der. In cases
where for some
reason no fall
mulch was ap-
plied the bed
should be well
manured and
dug in.

29. All trees
and shrubs
that are sub-
ject to attacks
of San Jose
scale should be
sprayed with
one of the sol-
uble oil mix-
tures before
the buds swell.
At least forty-
eight hours are
needed to
smother these
pests.

RECKON ye'll think I’m a crazy old fool when I tell ye what I done this mornin’, but I couldn't help it
no more'n a song-sparrer settin’ in the sun down along the brook can help whisperin’ away to himself

101

Third Month

The mulch under

shrubbery, roses,

etc., should be dug
under this month

Clean, fine sand ap-

plied to the lawn

will kill off many
weeds

about how spring's comin’ in a couple o° days. Wa’'l, here it is, anyway—I went out in the pasture lot an’
flew a kite till “Liza hollered fer me ter come in ter dinner! Dunno jes’ why I done it, ‘cause ye know
I’m shadin’ seventy year an’ the rheumatiz’s been pesterin’ me all winter. Somethin’ in the feel o’ the
wind, though, an’ the way the cloud shadders raced, kinder reached ’way down inside me an’ took a-holt, an’
I jes’ had ter go. Fun? Why, say, stranger, I ain't had such a good time in I dunno when! Reg’lar kid I
was, a-settin’ ag’in the sunny side o’ the barn, feelin’ that queer springy pull on the string an’ watchin’ the
kite swingin’ lazy-like away up thar between the clouds. Sent some paper messages up the string, too;
funny how dark they looks when they gits up a ways, an’ then all silvery as the wind flips ’em around so they
ketches the sun. Made me feel twenty year younger, an’—wa’l, I don’t care if the rheumatiz is extry bad
tonight! —Old Doc Lemmon

Barrels or tall bas-

kets placed over the

rhubarb will make
better stalks

Most roses need se-
vere pruning now.
Leave two or three
buds on new wood

Potato planting may begin just as soon as
the ground can be worked. Cool, moist
soil is the best

All the plowing should be finished as soon
as possible. Use a subsoil plow and get
down really deep

Keep the soil well stirred around the plants
in the cold-frame. A small “claw” is the
best tool to use

House & Garden’s

Pe gt at

The beans should have sand directly about them to
ensure good drainage and minimize the danger of
rotting through excessive moisture during germination

TELLING the TALE
of “eee ines

N any well regulated garden calendar for
the latitude of New York City, May Ist is
planting day for lima beans. On or about that
date everything should be ready, for where is
the vegetable garden worthy of the name which

Poles are the usual supports for the climb- has not its limas? Lima beans should be planted with the

ing kinds of limas. Cedar is the best and These beans are among the most desirable “eves” of the seeds down, five or six to

most durable wood. Set the poles firmly vegetable crops. The vines seldom fail to pro- a hill, in a circle around the pole. Cover
and let them stand about 6' high them with about 1” of soil

duce abundantly if conditions are reasonably
favorable and standard sorts have been planted.
There need be no waste of the crop, however,
for if the yield is greater than can be used on
the table while fresh, the surplus can be suc-
cessfully and without great trouble preserved
for use next fall and winter.

The photographs and captions on this page
tell the tale of the principal steps in pole lima
culture. Choose a good variety like Early
Leviathan, and plant in hills 3’ to 4’ apart each
way. One-quarter of a pint of seed will be
enough to plant a row 50’ long. This quantity
will cost you about twenty-five cents at any
good seed store. Succession plantings may be
made until the middle of June, to insure a
longer cropping season.

When the vines begin to show a tendency As soon as the young plants are large enough to show Lima beans may be planted in among the
to climb they will need some assistance to their relative sturdiness, thin them out until only the corn, whose stalks will furnish them with
start them properly three strongest remain in each hill support as well as shade

Book

The ground between
rows should be kept
well stirred with a

wheel-hoe

The

handled broom

of Gardens

THE GARDENER’S - CALENDAR

SUNDAY | MONDAY

dead leaves
may be swept from
the ivy with a long

I wonder if

being trees?

they like it—

I suppose they do... .

It must feel good to have the
ground so flat,

And feel yourself stand right
straight up like that—

So stiff in

the middle—and

then branch at ease,
Big boughs that arch, small
ones that bend and blow,

And all

those fringy leaves
that flutter so.

—Charlotte Perkins Stetson.

6. If the
asparagus bed
was mulched
last fall it can
be turned un-
der now. Hill
the soil up to
the rows if you
like your
asparagus
white. Salt in
liberal quanti-
ties should be
applied to keep
down the
weeds.

13. Seeds of
the more hardy
flowers such as
snapdragon,
asters, alys-
sum, calendula,
centaurea,
pansies, violas,
scabiosa, etc.,
may be sown
outside at this
time. Have the
soil well pulv-
erized, as flow-
er seeds are
very fine.

20. Keep the
soil constantly
stirred between
the garden
rows. Seeds
that are slow
in germinating
can be protect-
ed by placing
the line be-
tween the
labels. Soil cul-
tivationis more
necessary with
young __ plants
than old.

27. Bean
poles can now
be put in place
for the limas.
Dig liberal
sized holes for
them, working
plenty of
manure into
the soil when
refilling. The
mound or hill
should be
about 4” above
the adjoining
grade.

7. That un-
productive or-
chard can be
made to yield
abundantly if
you resort to
the proper use
of cover crops.
To prove this,
sow now a mix-
ture of Canada
field peas and
oats, and plow
them under
when they are
about 2’ high.

14. Plantsin
tubs intended
as specimens
for the grounds
should be
watered freely
with liquid
manures.
Where it is not
convenient to
make or use
this, a top-
dressing of pure
cow manure
can be applied
to them.

21. Start
hardening _ off
the_ bedding
plants in the
greenhouse or
frame now. It
is certain death
to set out
coleus, gerani-
ums, etc., un-
less they have
been properly
hardened,
which ordinar-
ily takes about
two weeks.

28. This is
the proper time
to have the
greenhouses
overhauled.
Broken — glass
should be re-
placed, loose
glass can be re-
set, and the
woodwork
should be pro-
tected by at
least one coat
of good exterior
paint.

TUESDAY

1. Straw-
berries should
now be uncov-
ered for the
season. The
winter mulch
of manure can
be forked un-
der. If no
mulch was ap-
plied, however,
give the bed a
good top dress-
ing with bone
meal before
digging.

8. If you
have not
pruned the
hardy roses it
must be at-
tended to at
once, because
roses start into
active growth
very early.
Prune the hy-
brid types to
three eyes, but
leave about 4’
of new wood on
the teas.

15. All bor-
ders or open
spaces around
plants should
be kept loosen-
ed up with a
digging fork
This admits
the necessary
air to the soil
and also pre-
vents the rapid
evaporation of
the moisture if
the weather is
dry and sunny.

WEDNESDAY

2, Rasp-
berries, black-
berries, cur-
Tants and
gooseberries
that were
buried last fall
can now be un-
earthed. An
application of
good manure
worked into
the border now
will materially
improve the
fruit.

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

3. Weather
conditions
vary, but usu-
ally it is safe
to start sowing
seeds of the
more hardy
types of vege-
tables now.
Peas, spinach,
radishes,
onions, pars-
nip, beets, car-
rots, Swiss
chard, etc., are
all seasonable.

4. Early
planting is the
first essential
to success. Fin-
ish all plant-
ings of decidu-
ous trees and
shrubs at the
first opportun-
ity. Firm the
plants well in
the soil and
don’t allow
them to suffer
from lack of
water.

9. The secret
of success with
potatoesis
early planting;
these plants are
quickly de-
stroyed by hot,
dry weather.
To avoid this
danger plant
now, so that
the crop will
come to matur-
ity before the
trying weather
strikes it.

16. The peren-
nial border
should be over-
hauled. Any
existing voids
must be filled
in either by
new plants or
by dividing
those which are
left. Dig under
some good
manure or give
the beds a top-
dressing of raw
crushed bone.

22. Do not
neglect the
sweet peas
when they are
small—see that
they are prop-
erly hilled
when about 4”
high. Support-
ing them
should not be
postponed un-
til they have
been flattened
by wind or rain
and damaged.

29. Have you
spraying ma-
terials on hand
for the host of
bugs and
diseases that
are certain to
visit you this
summer ?Spray
the currant
bushes now
with arsenate
of lead to de-
stroy the green
currant worms
while small.

23. Any large
trees that have
been recently
transplanted
Imust not_ be
neglected. Lib-
eral watering is
essential, and
heavy mulch-
ing is also a
good practice.
Make soil tests
to see that the
soil below the
roots is suffi-
ciently moist.

30. If you
grow any crops
for the live-
stock the
ground for
them should
be made ready.
Mangels, car-
rots and sugar
beets are
Staples and can
be sown now,
although corn
must wait for
warmer wea-
ther.

10. If prop-
erly hardened,
plants of the
more hardy
types of garden
vegetables can
be set out now,
such as cab-
bage, cauli-
flower, lettuce,
onions, etc.
Cover them
with plant pro-
tectors or paper
on dangerously
cool nights.

17. Frames
for the melons
Must be set in
place now. See
that the hills
are well pre-
pared inside
them, using
plenty of good
Inanure and
chopped sod.
The seed may
be sown just as
soon as the soil
is thoroughly
Warmed up.

24. It isa
mistake not to
make what
sowings are ne-
cessary to give
a continuous
supply of quick
maturing crops
such as peas,
beets, carrots,
spinach, ete.
The common
Tule is to sow
when the pre-
ceding sowingis
above ground.

11. Have you
stakes on hand
for dahlias and
other tall flow-
ers, raffia or
jute cord for
tying, an arbor
for the garden
roses, a sundial
for the flower
garden.You are
sure no essen-
tial has been
forgotten? This
is the time to
check them up.

18. This is
the proper time
to start some
plants from
seed for flow-
ering next
winter in the
greenhouse.
Primula, cycla-
men,snapdrag-
on and many
others should
be started now
and grown
during summer
in frames.

25. Summer
flowering bulb-
ous plants as
gladioli, mont-
bretias, begon-
ias, etc. are
very little ef-
fort and are
worthy a place
in any garden.
They may be
planted any
time now, the
gladioli at bi-
weekly inter-
vals.

5. The lawn
should be
looked over
carefully to as-
sure a velvety
green sward
this summer.
Sod any small
bald spots, and
spade and seed
down large
spaces. An ap-
plication of
bone meal or
wood ashes is
advisable.

12. Before
the trees and
shrubs leaf out
it is advisable
to go over them
carefully, de-
stroying any
eaterpillar
nests before
they hatch. An
asbestos torch
is the best wea-
pon to use;
slight scorch-
ing will not in-
jure the plants.

19. Do not
let your green-
house be idle
all summer.
Therearemany
worthy crops
which can be
Started now,
such as potted
fruits, melons,
tomatoes,
cauliflower and
chrysanthe-
mums. Do not
let the house be
empty.

26. Thinning
out crops is
more import-
ant than many
suppose. Plants
that are allow-
ed to crowd be-
come soft and
spindly and
can never de-
velop health-
ily. Crops that
require thin-
ning must beat-
tended to when
very small.

This calendar of the gardener’s labors is
aimed as a reminder for undertaking all his

tasks in season.

It is fitted to the latitude

of the Middle States, but its service should
be available for the whole country if it be
remembered that for every one hundred
miles north or south there is a difference
of from five to seven days later or earlier

in performing garden operations.

The

dates given are, of course, for an average

season.

Fourth Month

Maples are pruned

just as the foliage

expands. Paint the
wounds

Peas should be hilled

when 4” or 5" high,

to protect them
from breakage

E’VE been fixin’ wp to-day, spring-cleanin’ the grounds, ye might say. They was a lot o’ stuff—twigs

from the winter prunin’, straw covers from the strawberry beds, branches busted off'n the trees by
the wind, dead grass an’ things we overlooked las’ Fall—which had to be got out o’ the way. Me an’ Sam lit
into ’em right after breakfast, rakin' an‘ haulin’ an’ pilin’. By supper-time we was through, so we fired the
piles. Most o the stuff was pretty dry, an’ jiminy, how she did burn! The big pile at the edge o’ the
orchard blazed so hot we couldn't hardly git close enough to throw on anythin’ more, an’ ye could hear it
cracklin’ clear up to the house. I took a look at it ‘long about dusk, to make sart’in it couldn’t do no dam-
age durin’ the night. It had all burned down to gray ashes with @ little pile o’ red coals in the middle, an’
the sky in the west was gray and red, too—kind o’ background, like, for a picture. A still evenin’ it was,
with millions o’ peeper frogs jes’ bustin’ their throats down in the lower medder an’ the smoke from the fires
layin’ in streaks close to the ground. It smelled different, that smoke, from what it did in the Fall. Then
it made ye sad, ’cause it meant that the year was dead; but last evenin’ it was full o’ ideas bout flowers an’
green leaves an’ new crops gittin’ away to a fresh start.

—Old Doc Lemmon.

Indoor started sweet
peas and other
hardy things may
now be planted out

The garden rows

should be laid out

before sowing is ac-
tually begun

Contemplated

changes in the per-

ennial garden should
not be forgotten

During this month many of the flower seeds

may be planted out where they are to grow.

Often annuals are good to supplement per-
ennial plantings

Melon frames should be put in place several

days before the seeds are sown, so as to

warm up the soil and promote quicker
germination

Cultivate the soil
close up to the
plants, especially
when they are small

104 House & Garden’s

5

IN YOUR OWN
BERRY BED

Hand cultivation and weed

ing are as important in

strawberry culture as with
other garden crops

The straw mulch placed

under the ripening berries

keeps them clean and free
from earth

Hanging rags but the only
and other sure protec-
“ scarecrows” tion is a net
tend to keep properly
marauding erected on a
birds away regular solid
from the fruit, framework

When a wise selection of varieties is made, Strawberries are propagated by runners. Pot Runners which are not to be potted should
the crop will last several weeks at least some each year for the following season be removed, to centralize the plants’ energy

Book of Gardens 105

THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR Fifth Month

SUNDAY MONDAY | TUESDAY | WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY

1. If the 2. The early 3. Do not

What a garden | This calendar of the gardener’s labors is | Weather condi- | sowings of | stop sowing
ee surmise a aimed asa reminder for undertaking all his Hous Harebiect eres bles Bucs Saree
ADI GADLeSt tasks in season. It is fitted to the latitude | vegetablecrops | erly thinned | quickly,suchas
Fancy, when the | of the Middle States, but its service should ath abe sown | out;plantsthat | spinach, peas,
night is there, be available for the whole country if it be oy thls ae arewatintd miley, padisne ,
Genie trees eek remembered that for every one hundred | corn,’ squash, | come thin and | quent. sowings

Rocking, rock- | miles north or south there is a difference of pum pies, spina a aa poise Diels
>, L, . . . A eve ities are he
ing cradle from five to seven days later or earlier in etc.,’ are all into healthy, first. step to-

: A 3
Duettars with performing garden operations. The dates considered vigorous speci- waid success.

yellow eyes! given are, of course, for an average season. | Warm crops. | mens. Thin | It there is any
-George Cronyn Details on the plants when surplus it can

page 53. small. be canned.

4. It is un- 5. Most of 6. Tubbed 7. All the 8. Crops that 9. Carna- 10. Maple

wise to post- the more com- plants of all summer flower- are more or less tions intended trees should be
pone potato mon annual kinds used ing bulbous inactive and for forcing in pruned just as
planting any flowers may be around the plants may be are not grow- the greenhouse the buds ae
longer if you started out of grounds for set out now. ing well should next winter bursting; there
want good re- doors now. decorationmay To assure a be stimulated can now be is no danger of
sults. Potatoes Have the soil be taken 1rom continuous with an appli- planted out in their bleeding.
aay are a cool crop in which they their winter supply of gladi- cation of ni- the garden. Any large scars
Work the fertilizer and late plant- are to go well quarters and oli, they can be trate of soda Have the which may re- .
4 ings of them, | prepared far | moved into | planted at bi- or some other | ground well | sult should be Good birch brush
into the ground however well enough ahead place now. To weekly _ inter- strong fertiliz- fertilized, keep painted with along both sid
around the roses eared for, are so that it will maintain vals. The rule ing element them pinched proper tree & botn si Les of
iS rarely success- pulverize when growth, these is to plant all used in liquid back, and see paint to pre- the pea row is the
with a steel rake ful. Use a being worked. plants should bulbs twice as form to bring tnat the soil serve the wood b g 5
fertilizer with }| Sow the seed | begiven liquid | deep as their | about quick | between them | until the cuts est kind of support
1% potash. thinly in drills. diameter. is cultivated. heal.
Do not 12. The edges 13. Now that 14. Weed 16. Roses for 17. A barrel
cutting of walks, flow- the garden kiliers are very small seed bed flowering in the or liquid man-
the lawn until er beds, shrub- work is in full necessary in for the accom- greenhouse ure in some
the grass is so bery _ borders, swing, invite stone gutters, modation of next winter convenient
long as to ne- etc., should be yourself to get blue stone late cabbage, should be corner of the
cessitate rak- trimmed clean- acquainted walks and cauliflower, planted in tne garden will be
ing. Good ly and neatly with the use of drives, and kale, Brussels benches now. a valuable ac-
lawns are the | with a turfing a_ wheel - hoe. other places sprouts, etc. Use (a_ rich, cessory for
result of liberal iron every few These imple- where it is un- These should heavy soil for treating plants
fertilization weeks through ments do the wise to use a be sown now. them, firm the that are not
and frequent the season. necessary work hoe. One ap- Keep the beds thorough- doing well. Al-
mowing, the This finishing of cultivation plication now young plants ly after plant- ternate appli-
latter in some touch is neces- moreefficiently will destroy all in separate ing, and top- cations of this
cases twice a sary to com- and with less undesirable beds until it is dress occasion- with solutions
week in grow- plete your effort than any growth for the time to plant ally with raw of nitrate of
ing weather. grounds. other. season. them out. bone meal. soda.
18. Just be- : _ 20. Leaf eat- d 3 24. If the
fore the general beetles of vari- ing insects will wise to post- neglect to keep dead flower weather is dry
flowering sca- ous types will also. soon be pone the sow- up succession stalks will you will be
son begins in soon be at their working in the ing of farm sowings in the make an other- troubled with
the perennial destructive garden. For crops any garden, as ad- wise good gar- the attacks of
garden it is a work. | Spray them a poison longer. Man- vised elsewhere den appear green fly and
good practice the currant spray on the gels, sugar in this issue. very ordinary. other plant
to top - dress | bushes, goose- foliage is the beets, carrots, Corn, beans, Keep the tall lice. Peas, let-
the beds with berries, elms, thing to use. turnips, etc., spinach, peas, flowers sup- tuce, egg-plant
bone meal or cherries, etc., Cover the should be radishes, let- ported with in- and other soft
other concen- using arsenate squash vines sown. As size is tuce, beets, dividual foliage plants
T diatel t trated _ fertil- of lead as the with nets, as il- the important carrots,chervil, stakes, are especially
mmediately af er izer. Scatter it most adhesive lustrated on factor with cucumber, grass edge susceptible. Young hedges can
transplanting water on the surface of any of the this page, to these crops, eress, kohlrabi clipped, an Spray with 2 5
sani of y ttl and rake it into | regular poison ppxokec eo ea Me ly Goals and turnip are | remove ol strong tobacco be quickly trimmed
copiously oO Settle the soil. sprays. a gs. is needed. all timely. stalks. solution. with a sharp sickle

the soil

inst hear:
25. Dahlias 26. When 27. Winter 28. If the 29) After 30. Keep the 31. Formal stead of snears
may beplanted | the various | celery may be | weather ap- they have fin- | ground be- | evergreens and
out now. Make fruit trees are sown now. pears settled, ished flower- tween the hedges should
deep holes for in bloom they Make a seed the bedding ing, but not be- potatoes con- now be clipped
them, setting should be bed for it and out of gera- fore, the lilacs, stantly stirred, Hedge _ shears
the plants sev- sprayed with a sow broadcast. niums, cannas, syringas, deut- and look out are the best
eral inches be- combination of When large salvia, coleus zia, forsythia, for the potato tool to prevent
low the grade Bordeaux mix- enough to and other bed- spirea, snow- beetles. If any any voids in
to allow for ture and arsen- handle, dibble plants may ball, pearl bush arein evidence, the trees.
filling in the ate of lead. the little plants be started. If and other early spray with ar- Branches and
soil as they | This will de- off into well a delayed cold flowering senate of lead. tips that have
grow. Use a | stroy the vari- | prepared soil. | spell should shrubs should | Bordeaux mix- | been burned
little sheep ous insects that When they are come along, be pruned. Cut ture along with by the sun can
manure or ruin the fruit, 4 inches tall cover the out the old, un- the lead will be removed
bone meal in eatching them you can plant plantings with productive prevent at- with the prun-
the bottom. as they hatch. them out. old sheets. wood. tacks of blight. ing shears.

ID ye ever stop ter think what a garden’d be like if they warn’t no birds in it? Gosh a’mighty!—

why, it wouldn't be no garden-at all, hardly. I'd hate like thunder ter lose the robins a-huntin’
worms along my paths at sun-up, an’ the thrushes in the afternoon. ’Course, they’s others—song
sparrers that ye hardly notice ‘cept when they’s perched like sentinels on top o’ the tomato trellis, er
mebbe runnin’? ahead of ye between the onion rows when ye're cultivatin’; an’ wrens that flies over
from their nest in the ol’ box under the piazza roof ter catch currant worms; bluebirds in the spring,
an’ now an’ then a catbird er brown thrasher, specially ‘long in the summer. But the thrushes an’
robins is my favorites; they’re the real garden birds—never fergit ter sing a kind o’ cheerful, full-
hearted mornin’ song from the trees, soon’s they wake up an’ “fore they goes down ter breakfast.
The burned tips of Pretty good way ter start the day, singin’.
the ornamental
evergreens can be
cut out with shears

Succession planting
—Old Doc Lemmon. should be practiced
so as to maintain
the vegetable supply

EFA s

If you have space without sacrificing other Annual flower seed should be sown in the
need individual stake supports vegetables, you can now plant potatoes open without delay if you want best results

106 House & Garden’s

The one positive test of the ripeness of
corn is to strip the sheath leaves partly
away from the ear. In the eyes of an
expert the “feel” of the ear, the condi-
tion of the silk, etc., are significant

Peas should be picked as soon as the

pods are well filled out. Leaving them

on the vines longer than that means

that when they appear on the table they
will be more or less mealy

Ripeness rather than ma- Gather the onions as Okra is comparatively The keeping of notes, of
turity marks the time to soon as their tops die little known in the North, records of the garden’s
gather vegetables The down. Pull them and though well adapted to growth, is at once a pleas-
former connotes high lay them on their sides growing there. The ant task and a valuable
table quality, but the lat- for a day or two to dry fleshy, glutinous pods are future guide. Planting
ter often spells toughness before removing the roots the edible part of the and harvesting dates
and loss of fine flavor and tops plant should be set down
=
r “SS

WEEN ~ROMriGk
VEGETABEES

Ges greatest asset of the home vegetable
garden is the opportunity it offers for sup-
lying the table with the best of things in their
most palatable stage of development. Un-
fortunately, many beginners to not realize that
a delay of a few days in picking often means
he difference between beans or peas or corn
that are tender and juicy, and the same vege-
tables in a toughened and more or less passe
condition. Distinction should always be mad
yvetween ripeness and maturity. The former
connotes high table quality; the latter often
spells the opposite.

See to it, then, that your fresh vegetables
do not grow too old before you gather them
Thus will you benefit your bill-of-fare, and be
enabled sooner to prepare the ground for a
new sowing.

Book of Gardens

Sweet pea vines

trained on fences

should be tied up
as they grow

Potato beetles
should be met with
poison sprays or

powder

SUNDAY

THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR

MONDAY

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

J. Do not
neglect tospray
the iruit trees
when they are
in flower. using
a combination
of Bordeaux
mixture and ar-
senate of lead.
Spray thor-
oughly from
different
angles. This
will destroy the
many harmful
insects.

2. Sow now
Kale, Brussels
sprouts, cab-
bage, celery
and_ cauliflow-
er. These when
large enough to
handle should
betransplanted
into other beds
and set about
4” apart. From
here they can
be moved into
the garden
later.

3. Before ap-
plying a mulch
to the straw-
berries to pro-
tect the fruit
from dirt it is a
good practice
to give the
plants an ap-
plication of
strong liquid
food. This will
greatly increase
the size of the
maturing ber-
ries.

4. Do not
omit spraying
the potatoes
with arsenate
of lead at the
first appear-
ance of the
potato beetle.
Hilling the
potatoes when
they are in
flower is advis-
able. At this
Stage the young
tubers are
forming

in

5. A top
dressing ap-
plied to the
lawn now will
encourage root
action that will
help the grass
toresist the dry
weather sure to
come i

the season.
Sheep manure,
bone meal or
Ww ashes are
3 lent ma-
terials to use.

6. If they
have _ finished
flowering, the
early spring
shrubs such as
forsythia, deut-
zia, ete., should
be pruned. The
best method is
to cut out en-
tirely several of
the very old
branches. By
pruning now no
flowers will be
sacrificed.

SATURDAY

Ue DLO nt
neglect to keep
up the sowings
in the vege-
table garden
Corn, beans
and cucumbers
should be sown
twice this
month. Inter-
cropping may
be resorted to
in many cases
with the pu
pose of increas:
ing the yield.

8. Look out
for rose bugs.
Go over the
plants each day
with a small
can of kerosene,
shaking the
flowers over
the can and
causing the in-
sects to fallinto
the kerosene.
This will de-
stroy them
quickly and ef-
fectively.

9. The climr
ing rosesshould
be looked over
carefully | and
any heavy, ro-
bust new
growth should
be tied into
proper posi-
tion. Pruning
should be de-
ferred until
they have fin-
ished flowering,
when the old
wood is cut.

10. Fruit
trees that have
reached the
producing
stage should be
sprayed regu-
larly with Bor-
deaux mixture.
This protects
the fruit from
the parasites
and fungi. Suc-
cessive genera-
tions must be
destroyed as
they hatch.

11. Toma-
toes, cucum-
bers and
melons, as well
as other garden
products that
are subject to
blight, should
be sprayed at
bi-weekly peri-
ods with Bor-
deaux mixture.
Leaves that are
affected should
be removed at
once.

15. Onion
maggots are
very destruct-
ive at this sea-
son of the year.
It is good prac-
tice to top dress
the soil thor-
oughly with
soot to keep
them in check.
Thorough at-
tention in this
matter will be
well repaid by
a better crop.

16. One of
the essentials
in producing
good fruit is
the proper
thinning of the
crop. The trees
should be gone
over carefully
now, reducing
the quantity ot
the fruit by
about one-half.
Larger and bet-
ter fruit will be
the result.

17. Do not
neglect to work
the garden soil
deeply and
often. Tnis not
only keeps the
weeds in check,
but preserves
the soil mois-
ture for the use
ot the plants.
If this is not
done the mois-
ture from the
soil will quick-
ly evaporate.

18. Now is
the time to
stop using the
asparagus, as
there are other
vegetables
available now
to take its
place. Keep the
asparagus
dusted during
the summer
with a poison
to destroy the
asparagus
beetle.

12, Care
should be
taken with all
newly planted
hardy stock
that it be not
allowed to suf-
fer for lack of
water. Thor-
ough soaking
of the ground—
not a mere
sprinkling —
followed by a
heavy mulch is
needed.

13. All the
hedge cutting
should be done
now. Frequent
trimming is re-
quired in order
to avoid mak-
ing a number
of unsightly
voids. Hedges
that have been
neglected for
some time may
beimproved by
tying in shape
before cutting.

14. It is a
good plan to go
over the
tomato plants,
reducing the
quantity of un-
unproductive
vines and sup-
porting those
left to carry
the crop. It
matters little
what system is
employed to
keep the fruit
supported.

19. The flow-
er garden
should be
looked over
and any dry
stalks should
be removed.
Plants that
bloom through-
out the entire
season shou!d
be top-dressed
occasionally
with some good
fertilizer to
maintain vigor.

22. It is good
practice to go
over the bed-
ding plants,
pinching the
tips of their
growth tre-
quently. This
will cause them
to become more
sturdy and to
develop more
quickly and in
better form.
Only the tips
need removal.

23. Don’t
neglect to soak
the soil thor-
oughly when it
is necessary to
resort to arti-
ucial watering.
Iivenings or
early mornings
are the best
time for this
work. Cultiva-
tion should fol-
low so as to re-
establish the
dust mulch.

29. Lettuce
will frequently
run to seed at
this season of
the year.
Poards or other
covering ma-
terial placed
over the plants
will tend to re-
duce the loss
from this
source. Re-
move all such
covering dur-
ing wet spells.

30. Crops
such as pota-
toes, celery,
tomatoes, etc.,
will be im-
proved by mild
applications of
fertilizer. Scat-
ter the fertil-
izer on the
ground around
the stems of
the plants,
working it well
into the soil
with a hoe.

24. Thinning
out all the
erops in the
garden is ad-
visable. This
should be done
when the plants
are small and
before the roots
areinterlocked,
or numerous
desirable
plants will be
removed.
Water well be-
fore lifting.

25. Carna-
tions in thé
field which are
intended for
planting out in
greenhouses for
bloom next
winter should
be sprayed oc-
casionally with
Bordeaux mix-
ture if there is
any indication
of rust. This
will make much
difference later.

Into the stilly woods I go,

Where the shadows are deep
and the wind-flowers

blow,

And the hours are dreamy

and lone and long,

And the power of silence
is greater than song.

—WILFRED CAMPBELL

26. Azaleas,
genistas, aca-
cias, etec:,
should be
plunged in beds
out of doors,
where they can
be well pro-
vided with
water and
sprayed. These
plants will be
making growth
at this time and
forming next
year's buds.

20: fall
flowers such as
hollyhocks, del-
phiniums, heli-
anthus, etc.,
snould be sup-
ported before
any damage is
done by storms
and heavy
winds. Proper
stakes should
be put in and
the plants can,
be tied in to
them.

27. It is ad-
visable at this
time to take
large quantities
of chrysanthe-
mum cuttings.
These if rooted
now will make
fine plants for
6” or 7” pots,
or when bed-
ded out will
make stems
about 3’ long
with good sized
flowers.

21. Be sure
you keep the
lima beans and
peas properly
supported; the
peas by staking
and the limas
by tying in to
their poles.
Bush limas
should be sup-
poi ted by small

brush

in the

Such at-
tention repays.

28. Keep a
sharp lookout
for aphis of all
kinds if the
weather is at
all dry. If the
plants are in-
fested spray
them for three
successive
evenings with
a reliable to-
bacco solution.
Be sure the
spray reaches
the under sides.

This Calendar of the gardener’s labors is
aimed as a reminder for undertaking all his

tasks in season.

It is fitted to the latitude

of the Middle States, but its service should
be available for the whole country if it be
remembered that for every one hundred
miles north or south there is a difference
of from five to seven days later or earlier

in performing garden operations.

The dates

given are, of course, for an average season.

Sixth Month

A little fertilizer
scattered on the soil
wil improve the

crop

Some sort of trellis
should be
ready for the to-

mato plants

made

107

THE other mornin’ I noticed some o’ the extry early strawberries had been half et wp. They looked like
a turtle had been after ’em, an’ pretty soon I found him—a big box-turtle layin’ right in among the
They ain't nothin’ surprisin’ ‘bout that, fer ev'ry farmer's boy knows how fond them critters is o'
ripe strawberries. I took an’ carried this partic'lar turtle outside the garden fence an” set him down at
the edge o’ the woods, fifty yards away. Next afternoon, dummed if he warn't back agin! Then I got
sight mad an’ toted him off to the swamp back o’ the barn. thinkin’ that would sure lose him. | Not a bit

in two days he was eatin’ them berries ag’in like he'd always been thar. I found the hole in the fence
where he got in, an’ stopped it up; an’ there warn’t no more trouble. Now, they’s two interestin’ p’ints
*hout all this. Fust, how did he trail them strawberries such a long ways; an second, how did he find
that one little hole in the fence wich let him in at ’em? ’Pears to me turtles ain't such dum fools,

Il.
after a —Old Doc Lemmon.

plants.

A can partly filled

with kerosene is an

excellent receptacle
for rose bugs

The unproductive

suckers should be

cut away from the
corn

Old barrel hoops surrounding the plants and raised
on stakes 1’ or so make excellent supports for the
tomatoes

The root stock growth of
grafted roses should be kept
reduced

A little sheep manure scattered over the grass will
improve its quality. This fertilizer should be spread
as evenly as possible

108 House & Garden’s

SIMPLE
SURGERY
for
FRUIT
TREES

The properly
pruned apple tree
has a low head, an
open center, and
is not cluttered up
with a lot of un-
productive but
strength - consum
ing shoots

(Lower left) A
view of the same
tree before prun-
ing shows a typi-
cal example of the
sort of neglect
which cuts down
the quality and
size of the crop

When branches are

A very weak for-
removed they

mation. Sooner or

should be sawed Allowing several branches (Lower center) Pruning later the tree will

off cleanly close to to develop close together and spraying the fruit split at this triple

the trunk, leaving often results in bad trees for scale are both crotch and_ be
no stubs splitting tasks for the winter ruined

Young trees as well as old need con-
structive pruning. At this period th:
developing form of the tree is guided
in the way it should go and its mature
success largely determined

The thin, weak interior branches should

be cut out. They bear little or no

fruit, and during the growing season do

much to obstruct that free air circulation
so necessary to crop perfection

Book of Gardens 109

THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR Seventh Month

SUNDAY | MONDAY TUESDAY | WEDNESDAY | THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY

neal ane not 2. 8 WE et ne The cata 4. The es 3 5. Do not

+, er gle e ne- peas must not shoots on the toes shou e ail to keep w
Today I have grown taller cessary prun- be allowed to dahlias should sprayed once OWES ot
from walking with the trees, ing of the early become dry at be 1educed to more with those crops
The seven sister-poplars who flowering the roots; three. Close arsenate oflead that require
go softly in a line; shrubs atter heavy mulch- cultivation will to destroy late seeding, such
And I think my heart is they have fin- ing is preferred keep theshoots hatchings of as beans, corn,
whiter for it irlesmaniey, ished flowering. to surface wa- from __ increas- the potato cucumbers, let-
whiter Jor its parley with @ | Remove some tering. When | ing. The plants beetle’ Early | tuce, ete. It the
star of the old necessary the must be dis- potatoes weather is dry
That trembled out at night- shoots at the ground should budded. Do should now be and hot, water
fall and hung above the base and re- be well soaked. this regularly if ready for use; the drill thor-
pine. duce the num- Use a stick to you want to dig them only oughly. This
Karle Wil Baber ber of the thin determine the have really in such quan- | should be done
é son Darker, weak interior penetration of high quality tities as you before putting

branches. the water. flowers can use. in the seed.

6. Keep the 7. Do not 8. Set out 9. Why not 10. The time 11. If you 12. Weeds!
cultivator neglect the some plants or sow cover crops the climbing have fruit trees We must make
working stead- flower garden. the late plants on that waste roses should be it would be war on them
ily. Deep and Keep all the of cabbage, land or in the looked over is greatly to your now. This is
frequent culti- spaces between cauliflower, orchard? This after they have advantage to the time to kill
vation will re- the plants well kale, Brussels is the most finished flower- start now to all obnoxious
lieve to a great loosened up to sprouts, celery, economical ing. Some of get acquainted growths as
T 5 it extent One ne- sat ee to eles we deep means Of eal phe old woody WAEn Se tay Ene now
ostpone its = cessity of arti- the soil. The renches for restoration. shoots can now pruning. his in tull develop- :
5 0) postp 0 ficial watering. tall flowers, them, adding Corn, rye, be removed at is the accepted ment. Early A_ nitrate of soda
ing to seed, shade Be sure to work especially, plenty of man- clover and the base, and method with morning is the solution is good to
the lettuce with H the ground should be ure. Water the beans are good the 1 eral fruiting trees best time to 5 s &
after each rain | staked, and | plants for sev- | forthispurpose | shoots can be | and it should | destroy them, stimulate the growth
slat screens so as to con- when this is eral days or and make ex- reduced some- be attended to afterwards th
serve the nat- | done, remove | untiltheystart | cellentsummer | what,improving | at this time to | raking them up of the crops
ural moisture. all dead stems. to grow. cover crops. their growth. produceresults. in the evening.

13. The last 14. Don't 15. Ruta- 16. After the 17. This is 18. After the 19. Keep a
sowing of corn wait for blight bagas, beets outside roses an excellent fruiting period sharp lookout
should be made to destroy your and carrots for have finished ti-ae of year to is over the cane for caterpillars
at this time. plants before winter use flowering, some look over the fruits should be of all kinds. All
Use both the you start should be sown attention trees on your examined very these pests are
very early and spraying. now. Sow in should be given grounds. Any carefully. First very destruct-
medium varie- Melons, cu- the drills and to the bed to minorrepairing remove all the ive at this time
ties. Plant sev- cumbers, toma- thin out to the improve the necessary old fruiting of year, but
eral rows quite toes, celery and required dis- quantity and should be at- canes and then there is little
close together other soft plants tance. In dry quality of the tended to. tie the new excuse for their
so that in late are subject to weather look fall flowers. Paint all scars, canes in posi- damaging any-
fall they can blight and out for green With a fork ap- remove all dead tion if care is thing as they
be protected, if should be flies, and if at- ply a liberal wood. Any taken. These are easily de-
necessary. This sprayed with tacked, spray top dressing of trouble should will be your stroyed. Most
willincrease the Bordeaux mix- with tobacco bone to the bed be examined by next year’s pro- easily done
amount grown. ture. solution. as fertilizer. an expert. ducing canes. with a torch.

20. What 21. During 22. This is 23. Cool 24. What 25. The 26. The

about some fall the dry wea- the time of the nights and hot about next win- melon plants planting season

peas in the gar- ther that usu- year when the days are mil- ter in the should be fed is again here.

den? Don’t ally prevails at echrysanthe- dew and blight greenhouse? freely witn li- Evergreens of

think because this time, it mums in the breeders. If the Now is the best quid manures. all types may

you failed the would be an ex- greenhouse leaves are in- time to start First make be moved now.

first time that cellent plan to should have fested, they some of the some holes Be sure to use

it is not prac- study the dif- someattention. should be vegetables for around the hills plenty of water

tical. Use man- ferent types of Frequent feed- picked off and forcing. so that the ma- in this work,

ure in the irrigation. ings with liquid then the plants Cucumbers, to- terial will reach and where pos-

trench and for Sooner or later plant foods are sprayed with a matoes, mush- the roots, then sible, spray the
A not h er wa of good results you will have advisable. Use strong solution rooms, New lay boards un- foliage in the a
° y use the round one of these various mate- of copper. Sul- Zealand —spin- der the fruit. evening for the Prune the flowering
shading lettuce is to type of pea | rain machines rials so as to phite of potas- ach, parsley, This will assure first few weeks. era

such as New | inyourgarden. | give a well-bal- sium is best for ete., give the you much bet- | Good results SHVUDS GS soon as
support boards York Market. Do it now. anced food. mildew. best results. ter melons. will follow. they have finished

along the row SS blooming

27. Why not 28. Carna- 29. Keep the c 31. Sow sey- : ‘
start a number | tions in the | runners re- s eral rows of ibis Calendar) ok the: oak
of perennials | field must not | moved on the beans rather ener s tabors)1sjaimed as) a
fromseed now? | be neglected. | strawberry should closely to- | reminder for undertaking
This is the eco- It is on the bed. This is started now, gether so they his tasks in season. It is
nomical meth- condition of also an excel- such as stock: can be easily fitted to the latitude of the
od of raising these plants lent time to set calceolaria protected in Middle States, but should
these plants in that the flower out new beds. cinerarias, cal- case of an early , oulc
any quantity. | crop of next If this is prop- endulas, etc. frost. Use serve the whole country if
If you haveno | winter toa | erly attended | These are but | water in the | it be remembered that for
frame to carry HEE OSG NEG to, Ene should a few of the drill to hasten every hundred miles north
them over in, pends. Sulti- produce _ nex! many owers germination, « « =
they can be vatetheground Season. Spray which can be and keep the Os southntiicre we differ
protected dur- | well and keep with Bordeaux started now for ground around ence of five to seven days
ing winter with | the plants | if the leaves | finishinginthe | the plants | later or earlier in perform-
boards. pinched back. are blighted. greenhouse. stirred deeply. | ing garden operations.

T HEY give a pajent, I think they calls it, over to East Ellsworth las’ week, to celebrate the foundin’ o°

the village back in 1719. Some o’ the rich summer folks started it, an’ it must’ve cost ’em a pile, what

with the rig-outs for the actors, the refreshments, an’ all. They took it powerful serious, too, them New

Yorkers, an’ told us how we owed it to-our great-granddads to show we ain't forgot all they done for us

by startin’ East Ellsworth. I reckon it don’t make much diffrence to them that’s dead these hundred

years an’ more, whether we gives a pajent or not; but we likes to keep the summer visitors happy an?

spendin’ their money, so we says “‘Sure’’ when they asked us. It was fun, too, after we got started. One

day they was a sham fight with the Indians, an’ I like to died a-laughin’ at Hen Pilikins, with a tommy-

hawk in one hand an’ a scalpin’ knife in tother, a-whoopin’ through the brush after old man Elkus, who

5 was dressed up like one o’ them Pilgrim Fathers. Hen he ain't much on looks even in his reg’lar clo’es,

< but fixed up as a Indian—wa'l, a hoss that seed him jes’ took one look an’ bolted. Mebbe them two ol’ ; Z

Put poison on the rascals couldn’t git over the ground, too—the las’ we seed of ’em they was a-headin’ straight for the East Staking and tying
cabbages before the Ellsworth House, an’ goin’ strong! Old Doc L the tall flowers is a
worms get a start ek AL necessary protective

at them measure

The large tomatoes Young seedlings may be transplanted All nests of the tent caterpillars should Flower pots under
are best for the into boxes now. Keep the surface of the be burned. A kerosene torch, or paper, the melons will help
main crop soil well stirred may be used their ripening

PROTEC SIE ELE OEE

Apples and pears can be made to bear
extra choice crops when grown in the
greenhouse

The possibilities of growing fruit under
glass are only limited by the space one
can give them

Whether in flower or fruit, the peach
tree trained to a trellis under glass has
a distinct beauty

Grape vines are set 4' apart close to the
wall of the house. The wires are 15”
from the glass

Yes, these are melons, real

wt
a}

SH Lay oy i> om ; muskmelons, greenhouse
Z ary: at \-aalie! bm Vv srown. The nets prevent
hat e i . the fruit dropping prema
jes "tat turely

THE ART
of
GROWING
FROEL
UNDER GLASS

Book

of Gardens

THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR

Eighth Month

111

Abundant watering
of the roots is essen-
tial when evergreens
are being planted

Gather and use the

egg - plants while

they are still young
and full of juice

When the crop is
over, dig the pea
vines into the
ground to enrich it

Fe

b,

Slat stakes keep the
runners of the bush
limas off the ground

(OSS weet eR

on most of the
greenhouse
chrysanthe-
mums at this
time and
strong feedings
will be neces-
sary if you
want highest
quality flowers
Also spray oc-
casionally with
tobacco prep-
aration.

reminder for

undertaking

all his talks in season. It
is fitted to the latitude of
the Middle States, but its
service should be available
for the whole country if it
that for

be remembered
every one

hundred miles

north or south there is a
difference of from five to
seven days later or earlier

valley’s cup,
aspen’s

scarce astir;

Only the little mill sends

The

up
Its busy,
burr.

never - ceasing

—Lowell.

are ing this
vised

tense heat.
is best to

tities

now be ready
for use. Bank-
with
earth is not ad-
on ac-
count of the in-

It plants and
use make a habit
paper bleachers
or boards for
this purpose,
blanching only
in usable quan-

SUNDAY MONDAY | TUESDAY WEDNESDAY | THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY
will be LORINe Ree ca endar jofp the) ee Warm noon brims full the celery, ee eanbaeey

cauliflower and
kale may. still
be planted. Use
plenty of water
when setting
out jthese

of watering
them twice
daily until the
plants show
that the roots
areestablished.

3. Strawberry
beds may be
set out at this
time, which
will bear a full
crop of fruit
next year,
Make certain
that both the
perfect and im-
perfect types
are planted.
This will assure
proper fertili-
zation of the
flowers.

4. Neglected
ground that is
intended for
cultivation
next year
should be brok-
enup. The
proper forking

or plowing with ous

the subsequent
harrowing will
remove _ large

quantities of on

the trouble-
some rye and
twitch grass.

Flowers

intended for
cultivation in
the greenhouse
this winter
should be
Started now.
Seeds of vari-
annuals
such as stock
mignonette
and snapdrag-
Iay be
sown, or small
plants may be
purchased.

6. Vegetables
of the different
forcing types
may be started
for greenhouse
cultivation.To-

matoes, cauli-
flower, lettuce,
spinach, pars-

ley , beans,
Swisschard and
New Zealand
spinach are
vegetables of
easy culture
under glass.

7. This is the
time that spe- C
attention at this
should be given
to cabbage and
other green
vegetables on
account of the
leaf eating in-

auyhie
should v
sprayed soil

of lead to de-

These

roots.

8. Evergreens
may be planted
time.
are
plants that
need a great
deal of water,
so it is advis-
able when re-
setting them to
Saturate the
thorough-

9. Bay trees,
Palms, hydran-

y used for
piazza decora-
tion are usually
infested with
various aphids
and other in-
sects. It is ad-
visable to use

arsenate ly to restore tobaceo sprays
and encourage regularly as a
in- activity of the preventive of

these pests.

10. This is
the time that
cuttings should
be taken of all
the various
bedding plants
such as coleus,
geraniums and
alternantheras.
These plants if
earried in a
cool green-
house through-
out the winter
will make good
stock plants.

11. Melons
ripening now

should be kept

12.

Bulbs for

forcing in the
greenhouse

sprayed with should be or-
Bordeaux mix- dered at this
ture to prevent time. Bo

blight. It is a pans, soil 2

good plan to other necessary
place small materials used
boards under in the forcing

the young mel-
ons to assure
ripening. Allow
the melon to

leave the vine are

voluntarily.

now.

of these plants
should be made
ready, as some
of these bulbs

available

13. N ew
lawns can be
seeded down
now. Failure
with lawns is
often due to
the improper
preparation of
the ground and
the meagre al-
lotment of
seed. Sow grass
thickly, as this
will help to
choke the weed
growth.

Hedges 15.

ty
evergreens the
have been con-
fined to a form,
and various
plants that are
clipped, should

now as growth

cease. This will

and
should be done

still time

garden.

There is
to
sow some cool
crops in the
Sev-
eral sowings of
peas should be

ground is dry,
water well be-
fore sowing.

16. The cane
fruits should
be looked over
at this time.
Old shoots on
the raspberries
and | blackber-

made this ries should be

over month, also cut out en-
spinach, cress, tirely as these

to radishes, let- do not bear
tuce, turnips, again. Young,

final etc. If the shoots for next

year should
now be tied
firmly in place.

17. If you
want high-
grade dahlia
blooms it will
be necessary to
keep the plants
properly dis-
budded. This
means a con-
stant and con-
sistent pinch-
ing of the
young growth
in order to re-
duce the num-
ber of buds.

18. Roses
showing a sub-
stantial growth
should be en-
couraged by
top. dressings
of bone meal
or any good
fertilizing
agent. Though
it does not im-
prove the qual-
ity of the fall

19.

Don’t

let your flower
garden run
down.
the tall flowers
staked and cut
out all the dead
flowering
stalks.
the edges trim-
med and _ stir
the soil on the
surface. This is

Keep

Keep

flowers it gives as necessary
the plant more now as in the
vigor. spring.

20. If you
have a green-
house makeup
a compost heap
of all plants.
Use top soil
with a good sod
growth adding
manure and
bone meal and
Stacking it up
at a convenient
point so that
the green ma-
terial will de-
compose.

. This is 22. This is
an excellent the
time to go over
and prune the
shade trees, as
it is easy to see
how the work
should be done.
Remove the
limbs very

leaving
shoulders,
and paint the
care-
Make

time
build

Next to
coldframe

best friend.

cold-
frames for the
fall and winter.
Brick or con-
crete is prefer-
red but a sub-
stantial wood-
en frame will
last some time.
the
greenhouse the

23. After
gathering the
peach crop,
spray the trees
with Bordeaux
mixture to keep
the various
foliage diseases
in check. Trees
afflicted with
the yellows
should be cut
down and

is burned to pre-
the gardener’s

vent the spread
of the disease.

24. It is ad-
visable to have
a small step-
ladder or at
least a box to
stand on in or-
der to get at
the top of the
poles when
picking limas
or other types
of pole beans.
It is usually at
the top that
the greatest
yield is found.

25. Crops
that remain in
the ground
such as Swiss-
chard, pars-
nijpis, etic,
should have a
top dressing oc-
casionally with
a strong fer-
tilizer to pre-
vent them
from becoming
tough. Soluble
fertilizers are
more available.

26.

the sun an’ the rain an’ the south wind. 20 f he
ments, the sun, moon an’ stars, as sort 0’ gods rulin’ our gen’ral well-bein’., h
no grander thing than the sun, nor more awe-inspirin’ than a whackin ald thunderstorm at night, non
more helpful to a body's spirit than the stars, if ye'll really look at ’em. 1
want to, but I b'lieve they’s a deal o' practical, workable religion, a lot that'll help ye be a useful.
citizen an’ a good friend, in the worship o? them Indians. y st
ciples, o' course, but it's sincere an’ genuwine—which some of our up-to-date religion ain't.

Old Doc Lemmon.

Newly

set out plants
that
growing satis-
factorily can be
stimulated into
growth by ap-
plication of ni-
trate of soda,
sulphate of am-
monia or other
materials of
this kind. After
using these
good results
will be noticed.

are not

27. Gather
the onion crop
now. When
the tops have
died down the
onions should
be pulled and
left in the sun
todry; thenthe
tops can be
twisted off and
the onions
themselves
stored in a dry
cool place until
ready for use.

an’ dance so’s the element'll treat ’em right an’ give ‘em a good harvest. G nothin’
hike that up here, for the folks is all old-line Methodists, an’ they wouldn't stand for no worshippin’ o
But the idee ain't bad; I mean, the idee o’ lookin’ on the ele-
To my mind they ain’t

28. Biennials
such as fox-
glove and cup-
and-saucer,can
be started from

practice
to sow quanti-
of peren-
nials now, car-
ryingthem
over the winter
cold-
frame and set-
ting them out
in early spring.

It is

repair

tion,

year.

EEMS like this Prohibition idee ain’t limited just to people—even the sky's been dry since the first o’
July an’ the crops is in a bad way all through the county. 2 c ; :
week's paper ’bout the Indians down New Mexico an’ Arizony way, an’ how they holds a kind o’ sociable

29. Before
cold weather
look over the
greenhouse, re- it is other
placing broken
glass, doing
any necessary
work
Be certain the
boilerisin
working condi-
particu-
larly ina green-
house that
was closed last the

30. It is just
as necessary to
prune vines as

plants. All old
and unproduc-
tive wood
should be_re-
moved. This
will give more
room for the
younger and
more vigorous
shoots. Now is
time for
this work.

Makes me think of a piece in our last

"Course, we couldn't do nothin’

Call me an Atheist if ye

It’s kinder gettin’ down to simple first prin-

Dry onions in the
sun, then twist off
the tops and store
the bulbs for winter

By breaking some
of the roots you
postpone the seeding
of lettuce plants

Foxgloves, campa-
nulas and other per-
ennials are started
from seed sown now

Do not fail to thin out those vegetables
the seeds of which are sown directly in the

garden rows

the greenhouse

Seeds of cauliflower, lettuce, etc., for trans-
planting, can be started now in boxes in

Old advice, but good
—keep the ground
well cultivated

112

PRE Soa

Wherein the Wares of the Howling Huck
Elusive Perfection Through the Medium of the Home Garden

N the planning of even a modest kitchen

garden the desirability of the small fruits

currants, raspberries, blackberries, etc.—is
often overlooked. ‘The thoughts of beginners
especially are prone to center on vegetables, to
the exclusion of the berries, which, while of
perhaps less nourishing value, are nevertheless
highly important articles of diet.

[he requirements of these cane and bush
fruits are not exacting. Any fairly sunny,
well drained soil which will produce a good
general vegetable crop will be suitable. Such

necessary care as spraying, pruning, mulching,
and

etc., is easily given amounts to little

Heavy bearing bushes can re-

sult only when wisely selected

and well cared for plants are
used

Black raspberries should find

a place in the small fruit bor-

der. Many prefer them to the
red form

Be E*R RAE

ster and the Avaricious Fruit Store Man Achieve that

to

enough compared with that which the regular
vegetable garden demands.

As soon in the spring as the ground is dry
enough to crumble is the time to plant. The
stock should be ordered, therefore, early; but
before deciding what to get you should look
the ground over carefully and decide exactly
how much space will be available. In doing
this the following planting distances should be
kept in mind:

Raspberries ought to be planted 3’ or 4’ apart
in the row; blackberries and dewberries, 5’;
currants, 4’; If only a single
row is to be planted, perhaps along a fence or

at the edge of the garden, these figures
will suffice. If, however, you decide
upon two or more parallel rows, you must
allow an average distance of 6’ between
the rows, to leave room for you to move
about comfortably while attending to the
cultivation, picking, etc.

All of the good nurseries supply varie-
ties of small fruits in great numbers. It
would be out of the question to set down
here anything like a comprehensive list
of these, but you will not go far wrong if
you make your choices fromthe following:

Raspberries: The King (extra early) ;
Cuthbert; Columbian; Reliance; St. Re-

Everbearing; Cardinal; Palmer
(black); Golden Queen (yellow).

Blackberries: Mercereau (early ))5

Early Harvest; Early King; Snyder.

gooseberries, 5’.

ois

Blackberries, as well as raspberries, must have a supporting trellis
A good one is made of stout

wooden posts with connecting strands of heavy wire

which the canes can be tied.

Maes Fe

House & Garden’s

C Rigas

Currants: Perfection; Fay’s Prolific; Lee’s
Prolific (black); White Grape.

Dewberries: Premo (early); Lucretia.
Dewberries ripen somewhat earlier than rasp-
berries, but in other respects are quite similar
to them.

Gooseberries: Industry (English variety
well suited to our climate); Houghton’s Seed-
ling; Downing; Golden Prolific.

A liberal amount of well rotted manure dug
into the soil where the plants are to go will
prove a paying investment for higher quality
fruit. For blackberries and raspberries, too,
you must provide stakes or some other supports.

%

Unlike the true cane fruits,

currants bear only on mature

and thoroughly ripened hard
wood

The best red raspberries, when

grown at home, lack the

somewhat pithy character of
those in market

zs |

Neo

CGIAR

Book of Gardens 113

September THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR Ninth Month

A garden bed where
the late crops can
be protected is a
good investment

Good rutabagas
must grow quickly.
Nitrate of soda will

stimulate them

SUNDAY

MONDAY

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

September
blowes
softe

Till the
fruite is
in the
lofte.

—Old

Proverb

1. The last
sowing of peas
should be made
the early part
of this month,
using only the
hard round-
seeded type,
which is quick
and vigorous
in growth. If
che ground is
dry, water the
driils well be-
fore sowing the
seed.

2. Prune all
deciduous trees
before the
leaves fall, as it
is much easier
then to deter-
mine what part
of the growth
is to be re-
moved. Cut
the branches
close, leaving
no stubs, and
paint the
wounds im-
mediately.

3. Do not
neglect thecane
fruits, if they
have not al-
ready been at-
tended to. Go
over them care-
fully, removing
the old canes
at the ground
line and tying
the young, vig-
orous shoots
into position to
prevent dam-
age by storms.

4. It is not
too late to start
& — strawberry
bed for next
season, ifpotted
plants are used
for planting.
Use pistillate
and staminate
types. Put in
plenty of man-
ure and a fair
amount of bone
meal to stimu-
late strong, ra-
pid growth.

5. The or-
chard that is
not growing sa-
tisfactorily can
be improved
wonderfully by
the sowing of
cover crops,
and subse-
quently turn-
ing them under
as described on
another page.
No orchard
should be
grown in sod.

6. Evergreens
that have been
confined in
growth, hedges
and various
other plants
that are clipped
frequently
should be given
a final clipping
at this time.
Do this before
the foliage
turns on the
deciduous
Plants.

7. Do not
Stopcutting the
grass until all
growth has
ceased. Failure
to do this will
result in a long
growth, which
when carried
over the winter
will turn brown
in spring and
be hard to era-
dicate when
the lawn is put
in order.

8 Melon
frames and
other garden
accessories that
will not be used
again this sea-
sop should be
repaired, paint-
ed and = put
away in winter
Storage. When
well cared fot
they will last
for several sea-
sons of actual
use.

9. Vegetables
should be
started in the
greenhouse
now for next
winter's use.
Cauliflower,
lettuce and
String beans
should be sown
about every
three weeks.
Tomatoes
and Swiss
chard need but
one sowing.

10. This is
peony month
in the flower
garden. If you
want good re-
sults next year,
it will be ne-
cessary to over-
haul the plants
now, digging
up the clumps
that are too
large, cutting
them into four
pieces and re-
setting.

11.Where
heated frames
are available
for them, there
are a number
of crops that
can be started
at this time.
Radishes, spin-
ach, etc., or
some of the
cooler flowers
such as violets
and pansies,
can be sown
in the frames.

12. The flow-
er garden
should be given
a final clean-up
for the season.
The walks
should be prop-
erly edged, all
weed growth
and the old
stalks of plants
removed and
burned. This
will destroy
many insect
larvae.

13. Do not
neglect to get
cuttings of the
bedding plants
before they are
destroyed by
frost. This ap-
plies to chry-
santhemums,
coleus, etc.
Each variety
should be kept
separate, as
mixed colors
are disappoint-
ing.

14. This is
one of the best
periods of the
year for seed-
ing down new
lawns, the rea-
son being that
most weed
growth is over
and the grass
will get suf-
ficient start to
carry it safely
through the
trials of winter
weather.

15. Onions,
parsnips, spin-
ach and hardy
crops of this
character may
be sown in the
open with the
idea of carrying
them over the
winter. This
can be easily
done with a
little protec-
tion, such as
salt hay or sim-
ilar material.

16. Ever-
greens that are
being trans-
planted now,
or have been
transplated re-
cently, must be
kept. well wa-
tered. Although
top growth has
terminated,
these plants
are making
considerable
root growth
even now.

17. Perman-
ent pastures
for grazing pur-
poses shouldtbe
sown at this
time. Bear in
mind that if
properly put
down, a good
pasture will
last for many
years. Do not
under any cir-
cumstances
plant inferior
seed.

18. Attention
should be given
now to bulb
planting for
this season. If
not already
placed, orders
should be sent
inimmediately,
as early plant-
ing means bet-
ter results. It
gives the bulb
a chance to
form a
system.

root

19. Carna-
tions that were
planted out
may now be
put in the
greenhouse.
The glass
should be
shaded slightly
for several
days, or until
the roots have
again become
active. Over-
head spraying
is helpful.

20. Chrysan-
themums and
other similar
plants that are
in bud should
be fed freely
with liquid
manures of dif-
ferent kinds.
This operation,
however, must
bediscontinued
as soon as the
buds show
color and signs
of opening.

21. Do not
neglect to sow
down with rye
and clover the
vacant patches
in the garden.
Sowings can
also be made
between corn,
cabbage and
other crops,
with the idea
of remaining
after these
crops have
been gathered.

22. Celery
should be
banked with
earth now. It
is best if this is
attended to fre-
quently, as the
soil should
never be al-
lowed to work
its way into the
heart of the
plant. Hold the
stalks together
while banking
them.

23. Mush-
room beds may
be started in
the cellar at
this time. Be
sure to get
fresh droppings
for this pur-
pose, and by
all means use
new culture
spawn, which
is of high qual-
ity and _ the
most depend-
able.

24. Cold-
frames that can
be protected
throughout the
winter should
be used for
sowing hardy
vegetables like
cabbage and
cauliflower
with the idea
of carrying
them over and
planting out
early in the
spring.

25. It might
be advisable to
build a fire in
the greenhouse
occasionally.
Cold nights
and hot days
are productive
of mildew. To
overcome this
have the pipes
painted with a
paste made
from flowers of
sulphur and
water.

26. Before
the leaves
begin to fall,
look the garden
and grounds
over carefully
with aneye to
changes in
their arrange-
ment. The
reason for this,
and how to go
about it, are
detailed on
another pagein
this issue.

27. Just as
soon as_ the
foliage turns
yellow on de-
ciduous plants
it is safe to
start trans-
planting; in
fact, the earlier
in the fall this
is attended to
the better, as
the roots will
take hold be-
fore cold wea-
ther.

28. Wire
grass, rye grass
and other
heavy growing
grasses and
weeds grow
very rapidly: at
this season of
the year, and
if allowed to
overrun your
garden they
will bea serious
factor to con-
tend with next
spring.

29. A great
deal of our so-
called winter
losses, _especi-
ally with ever-
greens, is the
result of these
plants being al-
lowed to be-
come bone dry
at this season
when they are
developing a
root system
to carry them
over winter.

30. It would
not be amiss
with late grow-
ing crops such
as celery, ruta-
baga, carrots,
parsnip and
New Zealand
spinach, or
other crops still
bearing, to ap-
ply frequent
dressings of
manure and oc-
casionally _ni-
trate of soda.

O’er yon
bare knoll
the point-
ed cedar
shadows

Drowse on
the crisp,
gray
moss.

—Lowell

This Calendar of the gardener’s labors is
aimed as a reminder for undertaking all his

tasks in season.

It is fitted to the latitude

of the Middle States, but its service should
be available for the whole country if it be
remembered that for every one hundred
miles north or south there is a difference
of from five to seven days later or earlier
in performing garden operations. The dates
given are, of course, for an average season.

O THER day a young college professor passed our farm, an’ seein’ me a-fixin’ the line fence along the

road he stops to visit for a spell.
on a walkin’ trip, he says, up toward the Canada border.

Right nice young feller he was, an’ I kinder took to him; he was
Wa'l, we stood there talkin’ ’bout crops an’ the

like o’ that, an’ pretty soon he says, a-lookin’ up the slope o’ the hill pasture, “That's a fine oak ye have

on the hilltop yonder—big an’ rugged an’ strong.
like people.”
kinds o’ people, too.
but without no stren’th worth speakin’ of when a real storm come along.
weepy people, always a-droopin’ down toward the ground when they gets old. f
hand, are solid an’ neat an’ dependable, with wholesome lookin’ leaves an’ cheery color in the fall.

I’ve often thought trees must have souls, they’re so

I been studyin’ over that idee ever since, an’ by jing, he’s right; an’ they're like diffrent

I've seen plenty o’ gals that’s reg’lar aspen trees—flippity an’ gay an’ shimmerin’,
Spruces, too, remind me o’ sad,
Red maples, on t other

They're

Sweet peas for win-

ter bloom in

the

greenhouse should be

planted now

Gathering rutabagas
that have attained
the proper size and

best quality

mighty diffrent from the silver maples, which're forever reachin’ out long, scraggly arms that don’t never
seem to do nothin’ much worth while. If ye'll notice, too, pretty near all trees are like people in another
way: when they're young they're mostly all legs, skinny an’ awkward. Them that aivt thataway don’t
affect the likeness none—they’s chunky, well formed children to match °em.

Old Doc Lemmon.

Boards held with

stakes may be used

in blanching the
early celery crop

Herbaceous plants

may be moved

more successfully in
fall than spring

Lettuce may be planted in the cold-
frame to yield a post-season crop which
will repay the effort

Start this month to
hill up the late cel-
ery plants with earth

The time is ap-
proaching to plant
hardy bulbs outdoors

The last of the season’s clipping of the
formal evergreens may be done during
September

114

T he mall greenhouse can
often be built-on if its archi-
tectural treatment conforms
with that of the dwelling.
In such cases it is heated by

House & Garden’s

Y FOR SSR
FLOWERS
THAT GROW
IN. BEA

Cold-frames derive their stim-
ulating warmth from the
sun’s rays. Young plants
started in the house are
moved to them for “harden-

in extension of the regular

house system

A simple type of
lean-to greenhouse,
showing the proper
type of ventilator.
For best results,
the lean-to should
be heated at night
and on cold, cloudy

day

ing off” preparatory to setting

in the open garden

The lean-to above is
built against a con-
crete wall. It is
partly sunken and
faces the south, to
catch and hold the
maximum amount of
sun warmth

A regular greenhouse,
even though small,
can be adapted to
growing any kind of
hothouse plant. This
is a “unit” house and
can be added to if
more space is desired

Book

October

Carrots and other

roots should have

their tops removed
before storing

Changes in the per-

ennial flower border

should be made dur-
ing this month

of Gardens

THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR

SUNDAY | MONDAY | TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

This Calendar of the gardener’s labors is
aimed as a reminder for undertaking all his
tasks in season. It is fitted to the latitude
of the Middle States, but its service should
be available for the whole country if it be
remembered that for every one hundred

miles north or south there is a difference
of from five to seven days later or earlier
in performing garden operations. The dates
given are, of course, for an average season.

The first
few days in the
house are the
critical period
for indoor
plants. Use
great care in
watering and
keep the foliage
sprayed or
moistened. If
the plant dries
up too quickl
plunge the en-
tire pot in a
pail of water.

§. In case of
a severe frost
being threaten-
ed, it is wise to
cover the flow-
ers of outdoor
chrysanthe-
mums with
paper or other
material at
night. This
will prevent
their being
damaged and
add to their
life.

7 Dig up
and store all
tender bulbous
Plants such as
gladioli, dak-
lias, etc. These
m be stored
in sand or saw-
dust in boxes
and kept in a
cool cellar.
Dryness of
packing ma-
terial and sur-
rounding air is
essential.

12. Start
mulching
rhododendrons
with leaves or
manure. This
is not only for
the purpose of
protecting the
roots, but it
willalsofurnisb
the plants with
considerable
nourishment.
In the spring
the leaves may
be dug under.

13. All shal-
low rooting
crops should be
afforded the
protection of
a winter mulch
of manure.
This applies to
strawberries,
raspberries,
blackberries,
ete. With
strawberries,
manure should
not touch the
crown.

14. This is
an excellent
time to put
into execution
any changes in
your garden,
such as_ sod
borders, dwarf

changes in wa-
tering systems,
etc. A good
map of the
grounds will
help.

Don't ne-
gl to get
hyacinths and
other early
flowering types
ot bulbous
plants boxed
up or planted
in pots pre-
paratory to
forcing them in
thegreenhouse.
They should be
buried out-of
doors to fa
tate rooting.

Ze If you
have heated
frames of any
kind, why no:
use them for
the forcing of
quick maturing
vegetables
such as_ rad-
ishes, spinach,
beans, ete.
They may be
sown now, to
yield crops
during the win-
ter montks.

3. Don't fail
to make ar-
rangements to
pick the fru.t
and store it
properly. The
best method is
to wrap each
frui

xes ina dark,
cool place. Be
careful that
they are not
bruised.

4. Tlower
beds composed
of tender plants
can be made to
last consider-
ably longer by
a slight cover-
ing to protect
them from
frost. An old
sheet or blan-
ket of any kind,
with a few sup-
polts, may be
used for this
purpose.

8. Hay thrown
over tender
garden crops
sucb as egg-
plant, peppers,
lettuce, will
protect them
from damage
by light frosts.
It must be re-
moved during
the day and
applied only at
night. Do not
use enough to
break them.

G). Celery
must be kept
hilled. Hold
the staiks to-
gether tightly
with the hand
to prevent dirt
from getting
down into the
heart. Keep
hiling as they
g1ow, since it is
contact with
the earth that
gives celery
flavor.

10. Cauliflow-
er just starting
to head up
should be lifted
very carefully
and piaced in
frames where
it will mature
properly. The
plants may also
be planted in
tubs and
moved to a
barn, garage or
other frost-
proof place.

11. Why not
bavesome fruit
trees around
your garden,
preferably on
the north side?
Or perhaps you
have room for
a small or-
chard. This is
the proper time
to set the trees
out, except the
plums, cherries
and other pit
fruits.

15. cen!
plantings of
new trees may
be attended to
at this time.
With the dry
summers which

the past
few years, fall
plantings have
given better re-
sults than
where work of
this sort was
done in spring.

16. What
about some
bulbs for house
fore_ng to
bloom about
Christmas
time? Paper
whites, Pott-
baker tulips,
narcissus and
various other
early forcing
bulbs may be
grown success-
fully in the
house.

17. Don't
neglect succes-
sional sowing
of the vege-
table crops
planted in the
greenhouse.
Lettuce, cauli-
flower,spinach,
radishes and
beans require
seeding about
every two ol
three weeks in
order to insure
a supply.

18. Stop
feeding the
chrysanthe-
mums just as
soon as the
buds show eol-

a good
practice to
shade z

ill give con-
siderably
longer petals
and larger
flowers.

W@), AIAG
changes in the
flower borders
should be
made now, as
the different
types of flow-
ers may be
easily deter-
mined at this
time, even by
the beginner.
Old plants that
are not yield-
ing should be
divided.

20. Carrots,
beets and other
root crops
should be gatl-
e1ed and after
the tops are re-
moved they
can be_ stored
in trenches out-
of-doors, or in
a cool cellar.
If stored out-
doors, they
should be pro-
tected from the
frost.

21 AL few;
roots of pars-
ley, planted in
pots and placed
on the kitchen
window-sill,
will keep any
ordinary
family supplied
with an abund-
ance of this
valuable green
for garnisbing
and other kit-
chen uses
all winter.

22. Don’t
neglect to
mulch heavily
with manure or
any loose ma-
terial, all ever-
greens that
have been
transplanted
during the cur-
1ent year. The
first winter is
the critical
period with
these trees, and
they need care.

23. Start now

to collect all
the old leaves,
br:nging them
to one point.
Do not ever
burn them, be-
cause, when
ratted, they
are one of the
best of all fer-
tilizing ma-
terial. Store
them in some
obscure, shel-
tered corner.

24. Don't for-
get to plant a
few or the more
hardy types of
narcissus in
some secluded
corner where
they may go
on naturalizing
and spreading
by themselves.
In a few years
enormous
masses are pos-
sible from
small plantings

25. Shut off
and drain all
irrigating sys-
tems and other
ebxepaOusnend:
plumbing
pipes, and
empty concrete

cp. All

s should

be left open to
assure proper
drainage of the
piping. If
they freeze
they will burst.

26. Potatoes
and other root
crops stored in
the cellar
should be
looked over oc-
casionally to
prevent dam-
age by decay.
Remove all
decayed or
so{t, spongy
tubers, because
they are sure
to infect other
sound opes,

27. Hydran-
geas, bay trees
and other deco-
Tative plants in
tubs and boxes
should be
stored away for
the winter. A
good cellar
which is not
too warm and
is fairly light
makes a good
storage place
for this class of
material.

28. When
husking corn,
any exception-
ally fine ears
should te set
as.de and saved
for seed next
year. The ears
should be hung
up -n some dry
place where the
m.ce will not
beable toreach
them. Sus-
pending by
wire is good.

29. After the
foliage falls all
fruit trees and
other decidu-
ous trees sub-
ject to the at-
tacks of scale
should be
sprayed with
any of the sol-
uble oil mi
tures. Lilacs
are especially
susceptible to
attacks of the
seale pest.

30. This is
an excellent
time to desticy
any aphids
which may be
on the white
pines and other
evergreens. A
thorough
spraying with
4 strong to-
bacco and soap
mixture will
free the trees
from this
pest.

31. Arrange-
ments should
be made to
protect the
roses, the best
method being
to do them up
in straw_ over-
coats. In ad-
dition to these,
earth should be
banked around
the plants so as
to throw the
Water away
from them.

I love to see a
bough across
ihe moon
When, like a
scarlet lan-
tern of Ja-
pan,

Low in the east
it hangs
Pendant, ob-
sewed, and
dim.

William Douglas

Tenth Month

Dig up and store all
the tender bulbous

plan

nas

Bulb

should be

now,

ts such as can-
, dahlias, etc.

planting
started
end continued

until frost comes

115

_

If the last clipping
of evergreens has
not been finished,
there is still time

Label the gladioli

bulbs before storing

them away for the
winter

[™ makes me smile sometimes to hear city folks talkin’ ’bout how they'd like to go to farmin’'—“‘it’s
such a easy, restful life!’ Durn few of ’em seems to realize that a real farmer gits up at four-thirty
or five A. M. the year “round, an’ works till dark. Sure, I'll low they’s breaks durin’ the day—restin’
the team when ye’re plowin’, settin’ by the spring under the big maple an’ wipin’ off the sweat when
hayin’ time comes, talkin’ crops an’ politics ‘side the road when the R. F. D. feller comes with the mail.
If ‘twarn't for them interruptions I.don’t b’lieve us farmers could git along; we got to have some change
from hoein’ potatoes an’ hollerin’ “WHOA!” An’ daggone it, a man needs a chanct once in a while to
chaw ona straw an’ calc’late. They's lots o' things to stop an’ figger on—how much of a cut to make in
the woodlot next winter, when the drought’s a-goin’ to break, whether them two Holstein heifers o’ Jake
Hopper’s is really worth a hundred apiece, or who's to be the next postmaster now that old Bill’s dead
an’ gone. Reckon mebbe it’s because they sees us a-chawin’ an’ calc’latin’ an’ a-gossipin’ round the:
sand box in the store at the Corners that city folks think we ain’t got much work to do, or else are just
plumb lazy. But just let ’em try fermin’ onct, thetrselves!
—Old Doc Lemmon.

The collecting and saving of autumn leaves

should not be overlooked. When rotted,

they make excellent mulching and fertiliz-
ing material

Greenhouse work gets under way this

month, in preparation for the winter bloom-

ing season. The sweet peas should be
kept cultivated

The

root crops can

be stored in boxes
and covered with

dry sand

Dahlias, too, ought
to be clearly labeled

when

taken from
the ground

House & Garden’s

1l¢

Green peppers need no packing material
Simply store them in shallow boxes or
on a Shelf

Wrapping tomatoes in paper will en-
able you to keep them indoors for sev-
eral weeks

1 dry trench will protect the cabbages
if they are turned head down and cov-
ered with earth

WINTER BEDS for
SUMMER CROPS

The larger root crops may be packed
g é
quite closely in an outdoor trench and
protected with hay

Another method of keeping tomatoes
for fall and early winter use is to pack
them in hay

Before storing the roots in trench or cel
lar, break off their useless tops and dis-
card them

If dry earth is used in the storage of
parsnips there will be less shriveling of
the crop

Book

November

The grass in the
orchard should be

burned to destroy
insect eggs, etc.

Now is the time for

the final cleaning up

of all garden and
grounds trash

Whatever changes

are uncompleted in

the perennial border
should be made

A well developed bulb

with the roots spread,

ready to force for winter
bloom indoors

of Gardens

SUNDAY

THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR

MONDAY TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY | THURSDAY FRIDAY

SATURDAY

30. All orna-
mented garden
furniture, set-
tees, etc., and
all melon
frames, bean
poles, tomato
trellises and
such planting
accessories,
should now be
stored away for
winter. Paint
those that re-
quire it.

I saw old Autumn in the misty
morn

Stand shadowless like Silence,
listening

To silence, for no lonely bird would
sing

Into his hollow ear from woods
forlorn,

Nor lowly hedge nor solitary thorn;—

Shaking his languid locks all dewy
bright 2

With tangled gossamer that fell by
night,

Pearling his coronet of golden corn.

—Thomas Hood.

This Calendar of the gardener’s labors is
aimed as a reminder for undertaking all his
tasks in season. It is fitted to the latitude
of the Middle States, but its service should
be available for the whole country if it be
remembered that for every one hundred
miles north or south there is a difference
of from five to seven days later or earlier
in performing garden operations. The dates
given are, of course, for an average season.

1. It is not
too late to start
seeds of some
of the more
rapid - growing
annuals in the
greenhouse for
winter flowers.
Of these may
be mentioned
calliopsis,
candytuft, rag-
ged sailor and
the ever popu-
lar mignonette.

2. It is now
time for all fall
bulb plantings
to be com-
pleted. Always
plant four
times as deep
as the diameter
of the bulb,
mound the
earth up so as
to shed water,
and mulch the
surface well
with manure.

3. Garden
changes should
be made now
before the
ground is froz-
en, to prevent
settling and
other irregular-
ities in_ the
spring. Plants
disturbed now
are more likely
to live than
those moved in
midwinter.

|

4. Do not neg-
lect to make

successional
sowings in the
greenhouse of
vegetable crops
such as beans,
cauliflower,
carrots,

beets,

in small
quantities and
frequently.

5 Ill-kept
gardens breed
diseases and in-
sects. Clean up
all refuse and
burn the stalks
and other ma-
terial likely to
dec, Thor-
oughly sterilize
the ground by
the application
of lime or deep,
consistent
trenching.

6. Poinsettia,
lilies and other
heat - loving
crops intended
for Christmas
bloom must be
forced rapidly.
A temperature
of 75° or even
80° when
plenty of mois-
ture is avail-
able, will be
beneficial to
them.

7. It is per-
fectly safe to
plant aspara-
gus in the fall
provided you
make some ef-
fort to protect
it during the
winter. Pull
plenty of earth
up over the
plants and
cover them well
with decayed
manure.

8. The straw-
berry bed
should be
mulched with
well - rotted
manure ; this
not only pro-
tects the plants
but prevents
the deteriora-
tion of the soil
Straw to pro-
tect them from
the sun should
be added.

9. Carnation
plants should
be kept sup-
ported and
properly dis-
budded. Never
allow the
benches to ac-
cumulate green
mould. The
surface of the
ground should
be kept stirred.
Top-dress with
sheep manure.

10. Sweet
peas sown now
and properly
protected over
the winter will
give quality
flowers next
year. A frame
made of boards
and covered
with manure
after it is put
in place will be
an excellent
protection.

11. If you
have not al-
ready stored
your loot crops
for the winter,
they should be
attended to at
once. Burying
them in
trenches out-
doors with the
proper kind of
protecting ma-
terial is the
ideal storage.

12. There are
a number of
popular peren-
nials which
force well.
Clumps of core-
opsis, bleeding
heart, Shasta
daisy, dicentra,
etc., may be
lifted, potted,
and then stored
outside toripen
properly before
forcing.

13. | Celery
must be kept
banked proper-
ly to protect
the hearts of
the plants from
damage by se-
vere frost. In
fact, it can be
stored in
trenches any
time now for
use during the
late fall and
winter months.

14. Goose-
berries, cur-
rants, raspber-
ries and black-
berries are sur-
face rooters. A
heavy winter
mulch of man-
ure will build
up the fertility
of the soil and
help to protect
the roots from
damage by the
frost.

15. One of
the hardest
plants to pro-
tect during cold
weather is the
French Globe
artichoke. If
covered too
much it decays,
so use a frame
to prevent the
covering ma-
terial from ac-
tually resting
on the plants.

16. Primula,
cyclamen, cin-
eraria and
other potted
plants that are
customarily
grownin frames
may be brought
inside now.
Frequent feed-
ing with liquid
manures is very
helpful to their
continued suc-
cess indoors.

17. Tender
roses and all
tearoses should
be strawed up
now to protect
them. Putting
earth around
the bases of the
plants helps
shed water and
will serve to
protect the
lower part of
the plant from
damage.

18. Manure
for the garden
should be pur-
chased now.
For garden
purposes it im-
proves greatly
with age and
handling, and
it is always
possible to get
manure in the
fall, while next
spring is un-
certain.

19. Standard
roses areamong
the hardest
garden subjects
to protect. If
strawed in they
must have
heavy stakes or
they will be-
come top-
heavy. Laying
the stems down
and covering
with earth is
the best.

20. Freesias,
French grown
narcissus, early
lilies and all
bulbs of this
type can be
brought into a
higher temper-
ature now.
After the buds
show, free ap-
plications of
liquid manure
will benefit the
roots.

21. House
plants of all
kinds should be
given a little
extra care at
this time.
Sponge the fo-
liage with soap
solution, scrub
the green scum
off the pots and
top - dress the
soil in them
with sheep
manure.

22. Sweet
peasin the
greenhouse
should be fed
freely with li-
quid manures.
The first flow-
ers to appear
should be
pinched off to
conserve the
py lvayn tis)
strength. Keep
the atmosphere
dry at night.

23. Apples,
pears and other
stored fruit
should be
looked over oc-
easionally for
any decayed
ones which
would soon de-
stroy others.
When the fruit
is wrapped sep-
arately in soft
paper this dan-
ger is lessened.

24. At this
time all hard-
wooded forcing
plants such as
lilacs, cherries
deutzia, wis-
tariia, etc.,
should be lifted
from their
places about
the grounds
and placed in
tubs or boxes
for winter fore-
ing.

25. Young
fruit trees had
better be pro-
tected now
from the at-
tacks of field-
mice, rabbits
and other rod-
dents which
girdle the
trunks. Tarred
burlap or paper
collars placed
above ground
will help.

26. Boxwood
and other ten-
der evergreens
should have
their winter
protections ap-
plied now. Bur-
lap covers that
are supported
so as not to
come in actual
contact with
the plants are
the best ma-
terial for this.

27. Low spots
in the lawn or
irregularities in
thesurface may
be top-dressed
now to over-
come these
troubles. Use
good soil, and
when not more
than 2 inches
of it is applied
the grass will
come through
all right.

3 1s
should have
their roots pro-
tected by a
heavy mulch of
leaves or litter.
Some branches
of pines or
other ever-
greens thrust
into the ground
between the
plants will pre-
vent sun-seald.

- Most
smooth-barked
trees and prac-
tically all fruit
trees are sub-
ject to the at-
tacks of San
Jose scale.
These trees
should be
sprayed with
one of the sol-
uble oil mix-
tures which can
be purchased.

OWN in the medders back o’ my barn they’s a kinder swampy corner, all hummocky an’ full o’ ev’ry
sort o’ long grass, which fair turns blue with fringed gentians in the fall. For a couple o’ weeks, if
goes down there ev'ry few days an’ picks a pitcherful, but we never gets

the hard frost holds off, ’L

tired of ’em. They’s so durned purty an’ blue—same as the sky; an’ they’s about the last o’ the year’s wild
flowers, too, ’cept a stray vi'let here an’ there. Them late vi'lets is the blue kind, if ye'll notice—
reckon that’s the November wild flower color, somehow, same as they’s others for the other seasons. In
the spring it’s white an’ yaller, pink an’ light blue, mostly, like the weather. Then as the sun gets hotter
the colors change an’ come stronger an’ deeper, *til along in August ye see the scorchin’ red o’ the\
cardinal flowers. After that they begins to cool off ag’in; more yallers, the blues an’ purples o’ the
asters, the browns o’ the grass an’ leaves, an’ fin'ly a patch o’ blue at the very end. Blue’s a good color
any time—soft an’ restful like an’ cool. But they ain't no blue quite as good as them little fringed
gentians down in my swamp medder, with the rusty dead grass all ’round an’ the dark green cedars
along the fence. —Old Doc Lemmon.

et ait on

A good bonfire of the odds-and-ends

such as cornstalks, dead branches, etc.,

is a great help toward general garden
cleanliness and insect pest control

Burlap covers should be placed over

the boxwood as winter protection.
These bushes are not really hardy
north of New York

Succession
beans are now in order
in the greenhouse.

in rows 2' apart

Eleventh Month

Liming the garden
in the fall will im-
prove the produc-
tiveness of the soil

Dead vines from the
vegetable garden
may be added to
the compost heap

When the bulbs are

well rooted they can

be brought into the
house

plantings of

Plant

117

118

THE UASS Ty? REIL sae

House & Garden’s

THIS *YEARSS, GAkRDe®

Putting on the Winter Mulch, Cleaning Up the Odds and Ends, and

Generally Preparing the Grounds and Planting Plots for Freezing Weather

Jackets of clean, long
rye straw tied about
tender roses will protect
them from winter mjury

HEN every frosty morn-

ing finds fewer leaves
clinging to the already barren
looking trees, and fewer of the
garden’s last lingering flowers,
it may seem to the uninitiated
that Nature has about com-
pleted her year’s work; that
things are drawing to a close
and that there is little or noth-
ing more doing.

Sut “things are not what
they seem.” For every leaf that
drops, you will find, if you
look closely, a new bud dwell-
ing under the little brown over-
coat that will protect it through
the winter. And down under
the fallen leaves that have
blown about and caught in
masses among the dead stalks
of the biennials and perennials,
and in every nook and hollow
in woods and swamp, you will
find old roots or little seedlings
a few weeks old, or bulbous
plants such as Jack-in-the-pul-
pit or Solomon’s Seal and the
tropical looking “skunk cab-
bage,” tucked away safely for
the winter. Every hedgerow
and field is full at this season
not only of interest but also of
information; of lessons which
the wideawake gardener can
hardly help taking to heart,

The winter ground
mulch is a necessity for
many shrubs to prevent
alternate freezing and
thawing

and which will give him many good pointers
for the more artificial work to be done at home.
Hardly a move that Nature makes in swamp,
field, woods or by the roadside that does not
hold a kernel of information for the open eye.
And that, of course, is the only kind of an eye
for a good gardener to carry about with him!

There is, however, one thing in which the
gardener can make a decided improvement on
Nature’s methods: that is, in the matter of
garden sanitation. For the old Dame herself
does not worry much about insects and diseases,
trusting rather to the survival of the fittest to
keep things going. What the gardener may
think the fittest from his point of view, how-
ever, is often the vegetable or flower which
proves especially susceptible to injury from
these sources. Therefore, if he would succeed
with them, artificial assistance is necessary—
and cleanliness has proved as desirable in the
garden as it is in the home. The great ma-
jority of insect and disease troubles are carried

Evergreen bough as a winter protection for perennial

beds or even shrubbery plantings can often be used.

They should be placed on the south as well as the
north sides, to prevent premature thawing

NRE ERROR ENR.

roma

With slender ever-
greens, much of the
breakage caused by snow
can be avoided by tying

over from year to year in the
form of dormant or hibernat-
ing life or in eggs or disease
spores that find a lodging in
the fallen leaves or the old
stalks, flowers or fruits in the
garden and scattered around
the grounds.

One of the most important
things to be attended to, there-
fore, in the final garden clean-
up is to make a careful search
for any traces of disease and
for every possible hiding place
for hibernating insects. All
suspicious material should be
carefully gathered up and
burned. One of the greatest
mistakes that can be made is
to use all the late garden refuse
indiscriminately for the com-
post heap, as is often done. A
general fall pruning, with such
sanitation in view, will often
prove a great help in controll-
ing diseases of all kinds. It
will not take long to go over
the fruit and ornamental trees,
shrubs and _ other woody
growths, and cut out and burn
all suspicious looking branches.

After the ground freezes the
winter mulch of dead leaves,
straw or well rotted barnyard
manure should be applied to
the perennial plantings.

Do not apply the mulch

until the ground is

frozen. Its purpose is

to protect from sun,
not cold

Book of Gardens 119

December THE GARDENER’S CALENDAR

Twelfth Month

The interior
and small branches of
the peach trees should

be thinned out

A thick covering of
leaves will prevent
Trost getting into the

celery trenches

SUNDAY

MONDAY

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

I stood and
watched by
the window
The noiseless
work of the
sky,
And the sud-
den flurries
of snowbirds
Like brown
leaves whirl-
ing by.
—Lowell.

1, All tender
evergreens
that require
protecting
should be at-
tended to at
once. Pine
boughs, corn-
stalks and
other coarse
material can
be used to pre-
vent sun scald.
Manure mul-
ches are best
for the soil.

2, All the
various types
of bulbs for
winter bloom
may be forced
in the green-
house now. It
is best to bring
the bulbs into
the heat in
small quanti-
ties so as to
keep a contin-
uous supply
of blossoms
coming along.

3. Hyacinths,
Chinese acred
lilies, paper-
white narcis-
sus Soleild’Or,
etc., may Now
be forced in
bowls of water
for the house.
Place the
bulbs in the
cellar for
about two
weeks after
planting so as
to form roots.

4.A1]l new
plantings
should be heav-
ily mulched
with manure,
This not only
serves to pro-
tect the plants
by reducing
the penetra-
tion of the
frost, but in-
creases the fer-
tility and pro-
ductiveness of
the soil as well.

5. Do not
neglect to pro-
vide for those
friends of the
garden, our
birds. Feeding
boxes may be
placed where
the birds will
be out of the
reach of cats.
Suet tied to
the branches
is attractive to
several spe-
cies.

6. Low spots
in. walks and
drives that are
invariably wet
should be
raised to shed
water; or if
the earth is
taken out and
the roadbed
filled with cin-
ders it will
help to make
them dry and
passable in
bad weather.

twigs

7. Trees that
are subject to
scale insects of
various kinds
should be
sprayed with
one of the
uble oil mi
tures. Fruit
trees of all
kinds, roses,
evonymus, and
all smooth-
barked trees
are suscep-
tible.

8 All the
garden tools
and imple-
ments should
he thoroughly
cleaned,coated
with a cheap
oiland put
away for the
winter. Those
that are in
need of repair
should be at-
tended to now
while outdoor
work is slack.

9. Grape canes
can be cleaned
up and pruned
at auy_time
now. It is a
good practice
to remove all
the loo-e bark
and wash the
canes with a
good strong
soap insecti-
cide or spray
them with an
oil spray to de-
stroy larve,etc-

10. Tf cold
weather pre-
vails it is well
to look over
the vegetable
trenches to
make sure that
the frost is not
getting in and
injuring the
roots. Plenty
of leaves piled
on top is the
best protec-
tion for the
winter.

ll. Frames
in which semi-
hardy plants
are being win-
tered, or
frames that
are used as
growing me-
diums, should
have some
kind of cover-
ing. Loose
hay may be
used, but the
best covering
is jute mats.

12. Look over
the tender
bulbs that are
stored for the
winter, such as
dahlias, can -
nas, gladioli,
ete. Frost will
surely destroy
them, while
too much heat
ormoisture
willstart them
into growth be-
fore planting
time returns.

B.Do not
scrape the
bark on trees
to destroy in-
sect pests—it is
impossible
get into the
crevices where
insects hiber-
nate, and in
many cases the
tree is injured
by removing
the green
outer bark.
Use stiff brush.

14. Asbestos
torches, or
torches made
of burlap and
soaked in
kerosene to
make them in-
flammable,
should be used
to go over all
the trees and
destroy win-
tering over
nests of cater-
pillars and
other pests.

15. Succes-
sional sowin
of those crops
in the green-
house that re-
quire it, such
as lettuce
beans, cauli-
flower, spin-
ach and rad-
ishes,_ should
be made. Rhu-
barb and en-
dive may be
started under
the benches.

16. Rhubarb
may be forced
in the cellar
or attic of the
dwelling by
planting good-
sized clumps
in barrels or
boxes and
placing them
beside the fur-
nace or chim-
ney. The soil
should be kept
moderately
moist,

21. Melon
frames, tomato
trellises, gar-
den seats and
other wooden
garden mate-
rial should be
painted. Use
good paint,
and where ne:
cessary apply
two coats. This
is considerably
cheaper than
constant re-
newals.

22. Ferns.
palms and
other house
plants should
be top-dressed
occasionally
with some of
the concen-
trated plant
foods sold for
the purpose.
Keep the sur-
face of the soil
loosened so
that no green
scum forms.

23. The foli-
age of house
plants must be
kept free of in-
sects. Spong-
ing the leaves
with a soap
solution to
which a good
tobacco ex-
tract has been
added will de-
stroy white
scale, red spi-
der, mealy bug
and green fly.

17. Necta-
rines, peaches
and grapes
which are
forced under
glass should be
pruned and
cleaned by
Washing them
withstrong
insecticides.
Remove some
of the top soil
afterward and
replace it with
fresh earth

18. Plants
that are grow-
ingin benches,
such as carna-
tions, roses,
antirrhinam,
etc., should be
mulched with
cow manure
orsoil made of
equal parts of
top. soil and
well-rotted
manure witha
little bone
meal added.

24. Chicory
is one of the
best_ winter
salad plants.
It can be forc-
ed in any ordi-
nary cellar by
planting the
roots in boxes
and keeping
them dark.
They can also
be grown out-
side in trench-
es filled with
hot manure.

25. The value
of the land-
seaping de-
partments
maintained by
the big nur-
serymen
should not be
overlooked.
They are pre-
pared to plan
all sorts of
plantings for
you and sub-
mit figures of
costs, etc.

19. Boxwood
must be pro-
tected, else it
is very apt to
winter-kill,
Burlap covers,
cornstal
pine boughs
any material
that will keep
out the sun
but admit air
may be used
for this pur-
pose. Apply it
now.

20. At this
season of the
year it is ne-
cessary to fer-
tilize indoor
cucumbersand
tomatoes to
assure fruit.
Collect the
pollen ina
spoon and dis-
tribute it to
the other blos-
soms with a
camel’s- hair
brush.

26, This is
the time to
plan and even
install some
sort of irrigat-
ing system in
your garden.
Don’t wait un-
til summer for
dry weather is
just as sure as
taxes and you
had best be
ready for it
well in advance
of its arrival.

Vegeta-
bles of all
kinds that are
stored in cel-
lars should be
looked over
with the pur-
pose of remoy-
ing any de-
cayed tubers
there may be.
A few bad ones
will soon cause
considerable
damage to the
rest.

28. Bruit
trees, and es-
pecially small
ones, should be
protected from
rats, rabbits
and other ro-
dents. Ordi-
nary tar paper
wrapped
around the
stem from the
ground toa
height of 15
inches is suffi-
cient.

29. The plant-
ing of decidu-
ous trees and
shrubs may be
continued just
as long as the
weather per-
mits. Mulch-
ing heavily
immediately
after planting
will prevent
the ‘penetra-
tion of frost if
it should come
soon.

30. Mus h-
rooms may be
grown in any
ordinary cel-
lar; the im-
portant point
is fresh stable
droppings for
the bed. Don't
let them ever
get really dry-
Use new cul-
ture. spawn,
as it more
certain than
the old kind.

315 Poo) x
lawns should
be top-dressed,
using a com-
post made of
screened top
soil with about
20 percent
bone meal and
wood ashes
added. This
may be applied
to the lawn
liberally now,
with some
grass seed.

This Calendar of the gardener’s labors is
aimed as a reminder for undertaking all his
tasks in season. It is fitted to the latitude
of the Middle States, but its service should
be available for the whole country if it be
remembered that for every one hundred
miles north or south there is a difference of
from five to seven days later or earlier in
performing garden operations. The dates
given are, of course, for an average season

Tree planting may be

continued lale into the

fall. Only solid freez-
ing slops it

To insure fertilization
of greenhouse tomatoes
the pollen is trans-
ferred with a brush

ARS to me like Chrismas in the city must be a kinder gloomy time ’side o’ what it is out here in the country.

I hear as how they ain’t no sleighs no more in the big towns like N’ York, Boston an’ Chicago—only autymo-

biles, an’ subways, an’ the like o’ that. Shucks!—what’s Chris’mas without sleigh-bells a-jinglin’, an’ snow all
white an’ sparkly along the road, an’ big birch logs a-roarin’ in the settin’ room fireplace? Somehow I reckon city
folks must find it kinder hard to git real Chris’masy when all they can see out their winders is rows an’ rows 0’ stone
houses all just the same, gutters full 0’ dirty gray slush, an’ pavements all wel an’ sloppy without even a foot o’ clean
snow with a rabbit track runnin’ across it. Chris’mas ain’t no day to spend indoors, nor to wade in mud when ye go
out. It’s a day to go sleigh-ridin’, or skatin’ on the ice-pond, or zippin’ down Kellogg’ s Hill on a big twelve-passenger
bobsled, with somebody standin’ at the Corners to keep teams from turnin’ in sudden from the side road just as ye
come kitin’ along. Yes, an’ by crickey Chris’ mas ain’t the time to wear your bes’ clo’es all day, neither; fer a couple
0’ hours, anyway, ye want to wear felt boots, an’ a fur cap with ear- muffs, an’ a pea~jacket, an’ a red “muffler, an’

i —cood thick woolen millens with wrisllets lo ’em.

mittens—good thick wool G1 Bye Heros

A spade is used to

lift and divide the root

clumps of various
perennial flowers

All nests of cater pil-

lars and other harm-

{ul insects should be
destroyed now:

The general rule is to save the dead leaves for
mulching, etc., but if they must be burned,
spread the ashes on the lawn

Bulbs for indoor bloom should be forced im the
dark for at least two weeks before bringing them
into the light

Chicory is one of the few vegetables which can
be grown under the greenhouse benches or in
the cellar of the dwelling

120

AE, (OC EA Rvs JO-E

Boxwood has been called the aristocrat of
hrub Certainly it has the mellow charm
that one associates with an old aristocrat.
We associate it with the old-fashioned
garden Today it is in constant demand
for giving dark, low accents to a lawn or,
as in this instance, for helping to recon-
struct the atmosphere of a country resi-

OLD BOxW COW

dence in the Georgian style. Old boxwood
commands the high price commensurate
with its scarcity, but into many gardens,
where price is not considered, whole hedges
and plantings of box are moved from old
gardens. The box planting here is on the
place of Mrs. J. W. Harriman, at Brooks-
ville, L. I. Alfred C. Bossom, architect

House

fe
@

Garden’s

a

SEED

Book of Gardens

121

imOn Uno eime, GrA Ri) EIN? S

GEA RD heNgleN Gy GOs laDa

A Condensed Ready Reference for the Year on Culture and Selection of
Vegetables, Flowers and Shrubs and for Planting, Spraying and Pruning

SHRUBS FOR EVERY PURPOSE

SHRUB COMMON NAME | HEIGHT COLOR SEES ON Oe DIRECTIONS
For Masses and Borders
Buddleia Butterfly shrub 3-87 Pink, lilac, violet July to frost A new flowering shrub, but one of the best; sunny position and fairly rich soil.
Calycanthus Floridus Strawberry shrub 4’—6/ Brown May Flowers are delightfully fragrant.
Clethra Sweet pepper bush 5/-7/ White July-Aug. One of the best of the smaller shrubs; very fragrant.
Deutzia 3 eutvia 4/—6/ White, pink June Very free flowering; a great favorite for grouping.
Exochorda grandiflora Pearl bush 56! hite May-June Good for cutting; best effect obtained through massing with other shrubs; charming flowers.
Forsythia Golden Bell 45! Yellow April Large yellow flowers blossom before the leaves appear.
Lonicera tartarica Tartarian Honeysuckle 4/6! Wie, pink, yellow, May- une Most striking when clumped; strong grower; free blossoming.
re
Philadelphus Mock-orange 6’-10' White June Profuse bloomers; a valued and favorite shrub.
Prunus Flowering plum 8-10’ Deep pink May Flowers of a beautiful shade.
Rhus Sumach 15/ White July-Aug Suited for damp places; brilliant in the fall.
Ribes Flowering currant 4/ Yellow April-May Fragrant; nice foliage; grows well even in moist spots.
Spirea Bridal Wreath 4/-6/ White May-June A shrub of exceptional gracefulness.
Viburnum Snowball e White May-June There are many varieties; each has some good point.
Vitex Chaste Tree Lilac Aug.-Sept. Gracetul; long spikes; fowers late in summer.
Diervilla Weigela Red, white, pink June-July Of robust habit, blooms profusely, and easy growth.
For Individual Specimens

Althea Rose of Sharon Rose, white Aug.-Oct. Among the best of tall shrubs; very hardy.
Acer Japonica Japanese maple Foliage, various Leaves of many distinct shapes and attractive coloring, especially in early spring.
Aralia spinosa Angelica tree White Aug. Unique tropical looking.
Baccharis Groundsell tree White fluffy seed pods in fall.
Cercis Judas tree Rosy pink April-May Flowers before leaves appear; very attractive.
Chionanthus White fringe tree White June Very distinctive and attractive in appearance; floweis resemble fringed decoration.
Cornus Dogwood White, red May Not symmetrical in shape but very striking; foliage highly colored in autumn.
Rhus Cotinus Smoke tree Smoke colored July Very distinctive; flowers in/feathery clusters.

For Hedges and

Screens

See above; plant close, 15’ to 18”.

Absolutely hardy; foliage light green, brilliant in autumn with scarlet berries.

Very attractive; many different forms; long lived. Colored fruits.

Color changes; very hardy; one of the best late flowering shrubs; enormous flower panicles.

Most popular formal hedge plant; plant close, 8” to 10’; prune to shape frequently. New
varieties hardier than California.

Set 15” apart; makes a dense hedge; requires a little pruning.

Plant 1149’ to 2’ apart; very gracetul in formal hedge; especially for boundary lines.

Plant 2’ to 3’; very fragrant; good for along walls, etc. Japonica latest blooming.

REMARKS

Clematis paniculata

Virgin’s Bower

Fragrant pure white flowers in August and Sep-
tember

Very rapid growing with dense foliage; good for arbors, trellises, etc. Edible fruits after flower-

Good where dense shade is not required; very graceful in habit.

Most popular of all vines for covering smooth surfaces such as brick and stone walls, etc. In
setting out dormant plants prune back to 6”.

Semi-climbing, especially good for covering rough stone work, tall stumps, porch trellises, etc.
Unique and attractive foliage.

Extremely hardy and robust; most satisfactory Jate flowering vine.
Flowers followed by feathery silver seed pods.

Extremely hardy; good in place of English ivy in cold sections.

Althea Rose of Sharon S19’ Rose, white Aug.-Oct.
Berberis Japanese barberry 4!
Crataegus Hawthorne 12-15’ White, red May-June
Hydrangea paniculata Hydrangea paniculata 67-10° White to rose Aug.-Sept.
Privet Privet To S’
Pyrus Japan quince 6-8 Bright scarlet Early May
Spirea Spirea 6/-8’ White May-June
Syringa Lilac 15/-20' White, pink, lilac May-June
VINES
VINE COMMON NAME FLOWERS ©
Actinidia Silver vine Whitish, with purple centers; A. Chinensis, yellow
ing.
Akebia Akebia Violet brown; cinnamon center in spring
Ampelopsis Boston ivy Foliage highly colored in fall
Bignonia Trumpet vine Very large trumpet shape; red or orange

Especially good for porches.

Evergreen.
Sunny position; good

Plenty of water; store for winter in warm tempera-

Evonymus Evonymus Foliage, green or green and white y on
Honeysuckle Woodbine Red, yellow and white; very fragrant Old favorite; one of the most popular for porches and trailing covers.
variegated foliage. i 2 ‘
Wistaria Wistaria Purple or white; immense pendent panicles Of twining, not clinging habit, especially good for pergolas, etc. Attains great height with suita-
ble support. Sunny position; rich soil.
SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS
FLOWER HEIGHT COLOR SEASON OF DIRECTIONS
BLOOM
Anemone 12/18” White, crimson, pink, blue July-Sept. Plant in May in sheltered position, in groups, about 6” x 6”. Hardy.
Begonia 12/18” Pink, yellow, red June-Sept. Start in heat, or plant in rich, light soil in open. Water freely.
Calla 18/-24”" Yellow, white June-Sept. Plant suitable varieties in rich warm soil.
ture.
Canna 2’-6/ Pink, yellow, red, white June-Oct. Start in beat, o1 plant dormant roots in rich soil. Store for winter.
Caladium 187-5’ (Foliage) green or variegated Sheltered, semi-shaded position, light rich soil. Store in warm place. : ;
Dahlia 2’-6/ White, pink, yellow, red, variegated June-Oct. Start in heat or outdoors after danger of frost, in deep, rich soil; thin and disbud for good
blooms.
Gladiolus /—5/ Pifik, red, white, yellow July to frost Succession of plantings from April to June for continuous bloom; store cool for winter.
Ranunculus Qn White, yellow, scarlet May-June Single and double forms; easily grown; good for cuttings.
Montbretia 2/4’ Red yellow. scarlet June-Oct. Culture similar to that of gladiolus. Plant 3” to 6” each way; take up or protect.
Tigridia 18” Blue pink, yellow, scarlet June-Oct. Culture same as above but should be stored for winter. _
Tuberose DieeY White July-Sept. Plant out in May, or start in heat. June and July planting for late flowers.
Zephyranthus 8-10” White, pink June-Sept. Good for masses or borders; plant two clumps, in early spring. Store like gladioli.

& Garden’s

House

122

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123

Book of Gardens

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124

SPRAYING
EQUIPMENT
for the WAR
on INSECT
PEE os ls

Sp)

9 ot whe

OF ep sipe ads

ALLE LOL LATA,

(Above) The com-
pressed air knap-
sack sprayer,
which is pumped
up by means of
the central handle,
is the best type of
small apparatus.
Several good
makes are on the
market

(Right) A knapsack
sprayer in use. Its
weight is supported by
a broad shoulder strap,
leaving the hands free
to operate the nozzle.
Only occasional pump-
ing is needed to main-
tain the air pressure

A pump sprayer to be attached to
a barrel containing the insecticide.
simple agitating device keeps
the liquid well mixed.

D. B. Smith & Co.

Courtesy

House

& Garden’s

In communities
where fruit trees are
plentiful it is often
feasible for a number
of owners to unite in
purchasing a _ large
power sprayer whose
original cost, mainte-
nance and services can
be shared by all.
Courtesy of Bateman
Mfg. Co.

The pump sprayer
above is designed
to be used with a
pail of liquid. The
two tubes go in-
side the pail and
an outside foot-
piece holds them
in place while oper-
ating. Courtesy D.
B. Smith & Co.

A man-power de-
vice used for or-
chard work where
considerable spray-
ing is to be done
It can be mounted
on an_ ordinary
farm wagon
Courtesy Bateman
Mfg. Co.

Book

of Gardens 125
INSECT OR 3 ne .
Diceice IDENTIFICATION WueEn To Loox For ATTACKS ConTROL
IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
Cut-worms Sluggish, fat, brown soil worm, 34” to| Through season, mostly April to June, | Especially cabbage,| Poison bait before planting, and give plants pro-
2” long with stripe along side; works cutting off young plants and_ seed- cauliflower and to- tection with 4” paper bands 1” in soil; also hand
at night. ‘ . lings. Dig around cut-off plant. mato plants. picking.
Aphis or “plant | Small, green or black, soft bodied flies | Throughout season, especially on half-| Cabbage,, cauliflower, | Contact spray, two or three applications, at inter-
louse”’ about js” long, congregating in large grown plants and in dry weather on lettuce, peas, etc. vals of a week or ten days, especially against

Potato bee

Flea beetle
White grub

Root maggot

Corn borer

Cucumber
Squash

(“stink”
White fly

Thrip

Asparagus
Melon lou

Onion thrip

numbers. —
tle Common striped beetle or bug %4” long.
Minute, black, active jumping beetle.

Large, soft, white, repulsive grub or
worm, feeding on roots under ground;
1%" to 1%” long.

Small white worm or grub 4” to
long.

cu

White, smooth borer, 1” to 1%” long.
Second brood in early fall.

beetle Small, very active, black and yellow
striped beetle, %4” or so long.
bug] Dull black, flat, very active beetle with
bug) long legs, often moving backwards or
sideways when disturbed; 4” to 34”
long.

Minute, tenacious, white winged fly,
congregating in large numbers until
disturbed.

Very minute, cause yellowish appear-
ance or twisted leaves.

beetle Active, yellow spotted beetle, 14” long.
se Small green aphis. See Aphis.

Minute, active, whitish insect barely

visible to the naked eye, lodging espe-
cially down between leaves.

under side of leaves.

Through season, first on earliest sprout-
ing potatoes; three broods.

Mostly in May and June on seedlings;
leaves punctured.

Through season; especially numerous in
newly plowed sod ground and moist
places.

Through season; first indication wilting
of plants without apparent cause.

Moths appear in May, caterpillars soon
after.

Through season, especially as vines be-
gin to run, and in dry weather.
Usually appears first late in June, re-
maining until cold weather. Young
hatched from brown eggs on under
side of leaves; resemble large aphis.
Through warm season, especially under
dry or overcrowded conditions; prev-
alent in frames or greenhouses.
Throughout season, especially on neg-
lected or backward plants.
June-Aug., especially on new growth.
Throughout season, usually first in May
or June; leaves curl up abnormally.

Through season, especially June to Au-
gust; onion tops twisted and curled,
permaturely yellow.

Potatoes, egg - plants,
tomatoes.

Potatoes, tomato, cab-
bage group, turnips.

Strawberries especial-
ly; also corn, po-
tatoes, etc.

Onions, cabbage, cau-
liflower, turnips, etc.

Corn, chard, beets,
etc. Lives over on
burdock, ete.

Cucumbers, melons
and vine crops.

Squash, pumpkins
and other vine
crops,

Tomato, cucumber,
etc.

Onions and leeks.

Asparagus foliage.

Melons, cucumbers
and other curcu-
bits; strawberries.

Onions and leeks.

under side of foliage, and on folding leaves.

Spray or dust with arsenate of lead or Paris green;
hand picked from egg-plant.

Bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead;
dust on seedlings.

Plowing late in fall; summer following; trapping
adults (May beetles); destroying grubs and re-
setting affected plants.

Protect cabbage group with tarred paper guards;
poison paper for adult flies before laying eggs;
burn infested plants.

Keep garden surroundings clean; burn old stalks,
weeds, etc., in fall.

tobacco

Arsenate of lead with Bordeaux mixture. Screen
young plants and sprinkle with tobacco dust.
Trap old bug under shingles and destroy; spray
young with nicotine or kerosene emulsion; screen

young plants.

Spray with nicotine or kerosene emulsion for
young, which resemble lice on under sides of
leaves; tobacco dust as a repellent.

Thorough, forceful spraying with kerosene emul-
sion or with nicotine.

Arsenate of lead; cut and burn stalks in fall.

Carefully remove, bury or burn infested parts of
plants; spray as for aphis.

Nicotine spray forcibly applied; kerosene emulsion.

successive

Tomato worm Large, green horned worm, often sev-| From mid-summer to early fall; strips| Tomato and tobacco | Arsenate of lead; hand picking into can or pail,
eral inches long. foliage clean, conspicuous inroads. mostly. and late fall plowing.

Rust “Rusting’’ or yellowing of foliage or | Through season, especially late June to| Various vegetables, | Avoid working when foliage is wet;
stalks. August. especially celery, spraying with Bordeaux. On maturing celery

beans, asparagus. use ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate.
Mildew Whitish coating or spotting of the foli- | Favoring conditions same as for blight; | Cucumbers, melons, | Spray with Bordeaux every week or ten days.
E age, spreading rapidly. also crowded foliage. lima beans, etc.

Blight Usually a yellowing or spotting of the | Throughout season, especially in muggy | Potatoes, beans, cel-| Spray with Bordeaux at or before first signs and
leaves, progressing very rapidly. weather and low, closed places. ery, cucumber, etc. repeat frequently to keep all growth covered.

Leaf spot or rot Spots in leaves, stems, or fruit turning | Throughout season, especially in warm] Tomatoes, beans and| Bordeaux mixture, removing surplus foliage, and
brown or black. weather after rainy spells. many others. in the case of fruits that touch.

IN THE FRUIT GARDEN
Scale, San José Minute, yellowish, sucking insects cov-| Throughout season; multiplies with ex-| Apple and other fruit | Dormant sprays in early spring or fall, using lime

Scale, oyster shell

Apple aphis

ered with small shell or scale, the size
of a pin-head; presence indicated by
gray scurvy appearance of bark, and
minute red rimmed spots on fruit.
Dark brown scale like elongated oyster
shell about }g” in length, the young
resembling active whitish lice.
Bright green aphis.

Scab, apple Causes dark colored spots on leaves or
fruit.

Caterpillar, tent Striped caterpillars in large masses in
webs or “‘tents.’”

Bud moth Pig pu brown caterpillar, head and legs
ark.

Currant worm Green worm with black spots about 1”
long.

Coddling moth The “mother” of wormy apples; moth is
small and chocolate colored; worm

Canker worm

Blister mite

hatches on the outside, usually in blos-
som end, and eats in; about 114” long.
A “measuring worm,” 1” or more in
length.
Sinall mite causing leaf blisters turning
from light green to red and brown

traordinary rapidity.

Throughout season, young hatching in
May or early June.

Throughout season, especially on the
sides of new leaves.

Throughout season, spreads most dur-

ing spring.
Early in spring; “‘tents’’ at first in-
conspicuous, gradually enlarged.

Early in spring before buds open.
Before blossoms open, usually first on

lower leaves.
In spring and early summer.

May and June.

Throughout season.

trees.

Apple and other fruit
trees.

Apples, peaches,
plums.

Apple and pear.

Apple, cherry, and

other trees.
Especially apple buds.

Currant and _ goose-
berry.

Apple.

Apple.
Pear and apple.

Injures young fruits
by puncturing them
to eat and lay eggs;
apples, peach, plum.

Apple and grapes.

Grapes.

sulphur, miscible oil or kerosene emulsion.

Same as for San José; also nicotine or kerosene
emulsion as soon as young hatch.

Dormant spray before leaves come out; nicotine
spray on young foliage.

Spray with lime sulphur before blossoms open,
after blossoms fall, and two weeks later; burn
leaves and twigs in fall.

Destroy egg masses in winter; wipe out tents as
soon as visible with kerosene smudge in spring.
Arsenate of lead spray for matured worms.

Arsenate of lead when leaves appear, before buds
open.

Spray with arsenate of lead until fruit forms;
after that, hellebore.

Spray with arsenate of lead just before petals fall,
before calix closes; ten days later and again in
about four weeks; band trunks during July.

Arsenate of lead, when worms appear; band trunks
in March or early April.

Strong miscible oil or kerosene emulsion spray;
just before leaves come out and again in fall.
Spray with lime sulphur and strong arsenate of
lead; for best results jar trees every cool morn-
ing, and catch beetles on sheet spread beneath.

Spray under side of leaves with strong kerosene
emulsion.

Spray with Bordeaux till mid-July; then ammoni-
acal solution copper carbonate; for few vines
bunches may be covered with paper bags; dor-
mant spray with lime sulphur or miscible oil;
gather fallen fruit and burn.

Roses, sweet peas and
most soft-wooded
plants.

Curculio Small, grayish beetle, 4,” to about 1%4”| In early summer when fruits are be-
long. Back mottled, Bele and white; ginning to form; another generation
, has a conspicuous “snout.” in August.
Leaf hopper Small, slim, yellowish hoppers with blunt | Through season, indicated by leaves
heads. turning brown and drying up; ‘“‘hop-
1 pers’ working on the under side.
Rot, black Fruits turn purplish brown and become | Summer; especially after wet weather
shriveled. and where tall weeds or grass are left
near the vines.
IN THE FLOWER GARDEN
Aphis (plant|Similar to those attacking vegetables | See aphis above. Where foliage is thick,
louse) described above. in axils of leaves or growing tips.
Mealy bug Small, soft-bodied insect covered with | Congregate in leaf axils throughout sea-

Rose beetle

Leaf spot;
Mildew

Aster beetle

small cotton-like specks.

Yellowish, active, crawling beetle %4”
or more long with long hooke1 legs.

See above.
Powdery, dirty white deposit on leaves.

rust

Active, long-legged beetle, 1%” to 34”

in length, eating flowers and foliage.

son; most likely on neglected plants
in frames or on porches.

Throughout season, especially May to
July, when plants are in bloom.

Throughout season.

Through season, especially after sudden
changes in temperature.

Appears in numbers, August and Sep-
tember.

Soft-wooded plants
and new growth on
some hard-wooded
plants such as
fuchsias.

Roses mostly.

Asters, carnations, etc.

Roses and some
others.

Asters preferably, and
some other flowers.

Nicotine spray; kerosene emulsion.

Nicotine spray or paint with strong kerosene emul-
sion, alcohol.

Arsenate of lead or Paris green extra strong; hand

picking into kerosene and water most effective.

Spray with Bordeaux. Keep new growth covered.

Prune infected parts; dust with flowers of sul-
phur; thin sufficiently for free circulation of air.

Strong arsenate of lead spray; knock bugs in early
morning into can of kerosene and water.

House & Garden’s

126

FALL PLANTING Vie ee

The questions of what, where and how to fall plant pussie

many home gardeners. Here they are answered briefly
and without unessential verbiage. Let the following table
be@the basis of your flower and shrub planting this fall
NAME BLooms HEIGHT CoLors REMARKS
Aquilegia ...--.--- May—June ....- 3 4 Vellow, ) red. 0 «mie 9 Aquilegia. Graceful and airy, especially valuable in mixed border.
Aconitum .....+. .: June—Sept. if Ss) BB ire brccte cic sa oe cree Aconitum. One of the best for shady and semi-shady positions.
Anchusa ...---++++ May—June ..... 3 —5 Dh Owewe oop on aude Anchusa. The new varieties are great improvements. Give full sun.
Anemones ...--+++ Sept.—Oct. ..... 1 —2 White, rose.. Anemones. Beautiful flowers, lasting until hard frost. Good for cutting.
Carex (Sedge)..--- May—June ..... 1 — 2% Moliawel nies aelemister= rage iol Carex (Sedge). Good for marshy places or wet spots.
Chrysanthemums... Sept.—Nov. ee White, maroon, yellow Chrysanthemums. Most important of the late fall flowers.
Dicentra .----+.++. May—June ..... 2 — 3 irik? fererateteronioleteieie re asetatata Dicentra. Old favorite, thriving in either shade or sun.
Dictamnus ..------ May—July 2 —3 Pink, white Dictamnus. Showy for the mixed border; give rich soil and sun.
| Delphinium .....- a June—Sept. 3 — BIE ccteie seteiaterarett= « =eloiers Delphinium. Indispensable for background in the mixed border.
| Werrisi is cjtaipisteratele sie May—Oct. 1 — 4 IO) LEY-{ Sani pon GnoCoas co Ferns. Good for shady positions, especially massed around the house.
Foxgloves ....-+.. . June—July ...... 4 =) | White, purple, lilac..... Foxglove. For backgrounds in the mixed border. Dominate whole garden.
a Hardy grasscs...-- May—Oct. .....- 2." Foliage ...00sa.«eeress- Hardy grasses. Should be used freely both by themselves and in mixed border.
= Hardy pinks....... May—June ....-. 1 Crimson, white Hardy pinks. Old favorite. Among the easiest to grow of border plants.
Ss Hibiscus ...%)..... Ql July—Aug. ..... 5 = 8 Pink, white........----- Hibiscus. Full sun, but prefer moist soil. Robust growth with immense flowers.
= Helianthus ........ July—Sept. ..... 5 — 6 Orange, yellow........-. Helianthus. Desirable for shrubbery planting and in clumps. Newer varieties.
os Tri Ge nv clavate wialaroitotel erate May—July ...... 2 3 Blue, lavender, yellow..,| Iris. Select varieties for succession of bloom and character of soil.
\ Peonies ....- sees June ...-----+-- ha Red, white.......-.---- Peonies. Strong soil and sun or partial shade. Cover crown 2” deep.
8 Perennial pop June—Sept. 1 — 3% Reeds Twit ecercieleke cantsineret= Perennial poppies. ‘Iceland’ bloom all season; “Oriental” in May and June.
mi Primroses ...<c2000 April—May ..... aa White, yellow........... Primroses. Good for half shady position and rockeries. Rich soil.
~ PHIOXOs wie sie /eis1 a0 A005 June—Aug. ..... 2—3 Pink, red, white........ Phlox. Select for succession of bloom; replant every three or four years.
Rudbeckia ........ July—Aug. ...-. — 6 Yellow, orange........- Rudbeckia. Hardy, robust; spreads by itself; excellent for screening.
Saxifraga .......-. April—June ..... ,— 3 Pinks wwhitesee< cies eicl=t- Saxifraga. Very hardy; thrives everywhere; good for bordering shrubbery.
Shasta daisy....... July—Sept. ..... 1% Wihite tas ocromuvetiene celetete Shasta daisy. The popular original has been improved in later varieties.
| Jor caer oone anOC May—June ..... 3 Wii tesmpanticn ciate aueieistersisias= Spirea. Prefers semi-shade and moist soil; good for borders; permanent.
| Stokesia July—Aug. ..... 1% Blue, white. .....2..00.- Stokesia. Good for masses and beds in sunny positions; very hardy.
f Sweet William..... June—Sept. 1% Teint, \Habties ogc oeucdaoD Sweet William. Extremely hardy and permanent; fine for cutting.
CHR AR sariobond6oad June—Oct. ...... 3 —6 | Blue, red | Salvia. Prefer moist and semi-shaded positions; several new varieties.
Trillium. sss << Bee May—June ..... 1 Reds whites.acr eceieaeints Trillium. Good for moist, shady positions in the hardy border.
Veronica . June—Aug. ..-- Blue, white -| Veronica. Long spikes of flowers; extremely effective in mixed border.
Vinca April—Nov. ..... INVbEY42 Sroodoododoondor Vinea. Good as ground cover in shady position and under shrubs.
Violets April—May ..... Blue, white..........--. | Violets. A generous number should be included in every mixed border.
: = |
Berberis | April—Nov. .... 2 —3 | ARWREVTo) Aigadhagonariooron Berberis. Best general plant for informal hedges; color in autumn.
Weutziay oc. csicicicclersie May—July ...... 6 —8 Pinks (whites jet cie1-.c:01 civie Deutzia. Very hardy, permanent, and free-flowering; any soil; full sun.
Lilac (Syringa)...- May—June ....- 15) —20 White smlilacettemiclelcierareiets Lilac. Tall hedges, screens, and individual specimens.
nn Hydrangea ..-...-- June—Sept. 10) —15 Wihites pinks ete scteatsl ec | Hydrangea. Lawn specimens, hedge terminals, screening hedges.
a Forsythia ........- April—May rae Sen gs —10 Wellows usicleiies Forsythia. Single specimens and in mixed border. Best early shrub.
Le Japanese maples... .| May—Ockwasnes 10 —15 | Colored foliage Japanese maples. Invaluable alone on the large or small lawn.
D IME, as cdeboncenan | ulvaeene mata 15 —20 ROVERS soca coccnpsa0904 | Rhus. Unique and effective. Good background shrub.
Spirea .. ad Wee iire ees 15 Whites) pinks crete oiler | Spirea. Invaluable in the mixed border; also isolated. Many varicties.
iN CCE Sa npeooodo0d Auge Oct, ses02 15 —20 Wihites (red sic nilerelsie'=latelal= | Althea. Tall hedges and single specimens. Very hardy.
Viburnum ....- 40 May—June ..... 12 —15 WAGUC™ Ssoccnaedeononds. Viburnum. Hardy and effective. Flowers followed by white or scarlet berries.
Wreipelay cesses June—Aug. ..... g8 —12 Bitikey whites serekeli-teleinnr ..| Weigela. Extremely pretty and free-flowering. Graceful single specimens.
|
| Plant—Inches
Apart Deep
| Tulips ...... 4— 8 4—6 1 —3 Pink, purple, white...... Tulips. Most effective in long borders and in front of shrubs.
Narcissus 6—12 5—7 1 —2 | White, yellow.......... Narcissus. N. poeticus and N. P. ornatus good for naturalizing.
Jonquils 6— 8 4—6 | 1 —1% Yellow ..... HaaodaDGEONe Jonquils. For the mixed border and for cutting. Plant early.
Hyacinths......... 6—10 5— 7 1 —1% Blue, white, pink....... Hyacinths. Best for formal and design bedding. Mass in variety.
+ Wilies erejavahe vera aioe 12—24 6—10 2 —6 White, red, yellow...... Lilies. Plant soon as received. Succession of bloom throughout summer.
5 Snowdrops .....-- i Moh Se 2A Vy | White mere Snowdrops. Earliest flowering; naturalize in open woods or in rockery.
EE QGUEE ssariggesooss 2— 4 2-4 WA | Bliter wit nates ialels Scillas. Under trees or on shady lawn; will stand close mowing.
Grocisie otc. ceisleleiei=ys 2— 4 3—4 Ys | Blue, white, yellow... . Crocus. Brightest of the early spring blooming bulbs. Naturalize.
Spanish Iris 6—12 3— 4 1 —2 | SBlnespunplesiciccs:at-r-'s ares Spanish Iris. Prefer a light, friable soil; good for the mixed border.
Grape Hyacinth.... mm 1S i} A | Bleves wit Gerepetera-/-eieveteler= Grape Hyacinths. ‘‘Heavenly Blue” the best variety; plant in groups.
Anemones ... 4— 6 3 VU Blue, white, scarlet...... Anemones. Prefer well-drained, sheltered position; good for rockery.
MAT atiite een ere ee 6 2— 4 1 Wellow, (blues nistereicieiere Allium. Naturalize where grass does not have to be cut and in borders.
Chionodoxa ....... 3— 6 2—4 Ya Blue Chionodoxa. Prettiest of the early blue spring flowers; naturalize in grass.

Jeeves al

various other pages in this book.
Plants set out in the fall
Buy

For the details of fall planting, turn to

Be sure that the plants are in a healthy condition.
in a dormant or semi-dormant state do not give evidence of infestation.
from a reliable nurseryman. Plants should. be well matured; the
wood should be firm and hard in the case of trees, shrubs and
small fruits, and the season's period of fowering over in the case
of perennials. Set out immediately upon arrival.

Any ordinary good soil will answer for most plants. Avoid
extremes of sand or clay. Thorough drainage is essential. Heavy
soils will be benefited by an addition of coarse sand, gravel, coal
ash, or broken brick. Lime is good for both extremely heavy
and light soils; it should be used with discretion. :

The amount of soil preparation will depend on the quality of
the soil and the culture it has received a year or two pre-

Pale AN ae G

z10UuSs.

Before planting see that all roots are in proper condition.
straggly roots.

Nie RUG R@ENES

Add rotted manure and ground bone where plant food is necessary.
Cut off broken or
Prepare holes for shrubs and put in plant food. Keep roots
moist. Most perennials that form in clumps or crowns should be
set out so that the tops are about level with, or slightly lower
than, the surface. Firm in soil about roots. Tag all plants.

After soil is well frozen, apply winter mulch. This protects
plants from weight of snow and prevents premature root growth.
Use fine, dry manure, marsh hay, dry stable litter or leaves.
A depth of 3” to 5” is sufficient.

Of. the larger fruits, apples and pears may be set out now, but
cherries, peaches and plums should be left until spring. Of the
small friats, raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries and currants
may be set out to advantage this fall.

Book of Gardens

ADDRESSES OF
POIVGMITRCUS and LANDSCAPE” ARCHITECTS

NGamson @harless Garsecry se) 631 S. Spring St., Los Angeles, Cal.

PAU era aM ease derevelkleaiere Grand Central Terminal, N. Y. C.

Ayrton, Maxwell O..care of House & Garden, 2 Breams Bldg.,
London, E. C., England

“Bateman Miarnuiiaciumme COs.oesccesscacboncs5oas Grenloch, N. J.
mBossomyAlline dix Grepemweeiereierr-nenare 680 Fifth Avenue, New York City
Bosworth, Welles..............527 Fifth Avenue, New York City
Brown & Whiteside.............. Dupont Bldg., Wilmington, Del.
(Cananne ap AS an eee er 220 We t2ndost. New, York City,
Corin, Ware (Cs e5oceccss550c 830 Lexington Ave., New York City
Guitterkartland’ <5 24.) - Western Union Life Bldg., Spokane, Wn.
ID eam, IRWM slo e g eee ce cee eenOeEnae 137 E. 55th St., New York City
WelamoreaAd diicheys yee: tae 126 E. 38th St., New York City
Famllay @e Iel@eypeits God oognesoceuuucd 15 W. 38th St., New York City
Garinelds Abram) .524..5-55--.- 915 Garfield Bldg., Cleveland, O.
Grillloerrits’ (Coo 12 sels links conice eee nee 1 Madison Ave., New York City
CornhamnGailleness 54.2... -.- Fifth Ave. & 36th St., New York City
GreenleaimuyamesMy fi. cece eee 1 Broadway, New York City
Harrison ©. W. Maxedydd).........-... Box 32-R, Watchung, N. J.
PeISSEAVVIECK Snes ncn ec eeies Sees - 18 E. 49th St., New York City
HobantilbewisP) see. 3. 25 ers Crocker Bldg., San Francisco, Cal.
Hiotimany i Burrally Jr ss... 2... 120 W. 32nd St., New York City
leluint, Whar 105 6a 50poGbor 1017 Hibernian Bldg., Los Angeles, Cal.
Hutcheson, Martha Brookes........ 45 E. 82nd St., New York City
Jay, Mary Rutherford............. 101 Park Ave., New York City
WemSumem Charles! Si. s./.2.2 sine eee eres Peoria Life Bldg., Peoria, Il.
ILomal &2 Teeiybinee ao ae cle reo aeianiots 345 Fifth Ave., New York City
WovellenGuiyeem ee ele ee 229) Eatth) Ave: New, York City
ADDRESSES

127
Mathews Manuttactunimes Conse een 544 eens Cleveland, O.
MiilchiGallleriessaee eee ene 108 W. 57th St., New York City
@lmstedVB rose se. crater eee ees eS cea ice Ree Brookline, Mass.

Peto, Harold. .care of House & Garden, 2 Breams Bldg., London,
E. C., England

Pina, WYMAN, 64 cag clbecccc0ceus Cutler Bldg., Rochester, N. Y.
Pope, John Russell................527 Fifth Ave., New York City
Bratt Richard: Eee s2ndeerme eee 13 W. Saratoga St., Baltimore, Md.
Reds Johnig leper. cite a sees salen tae er Rea ese Plattsburgh, N. Y.
Rockwell Sib es Ease reser rere Seabrook Farm, Bridgeton, N. J.
Rosé; jackeManl eyes nine een ee West Summit, N. J.
Sanger, Prentice 22.2) m= - set p21 Be 4 Othe St. News Mork City,
Schmidt Voth Rapti rae 14 E. 46th St., New York City
Simone, Wb, Wllaisogocccocdbodbsedacboauseves Cornish, N. Y.
Siran cH lizabethwleeconande sree eran ere Leominster, Mass.
Smith) 1D. eB Conte iver eto sere eee ete woke eee ten ae Utica, N. Y.
(hielen eit eer Northwestern Bank Bldg., Portland, Oregon
diubby ye Wallliameene seer eee 81 Fulton St., New York City

Turner, Thackery..care of House & Garden, 2 Breams Bldg.,
London, E. C., England

Vitale, Brinckerhoff & Geiffert......527 Fifth Ave., New York City

Walker, Romaine. ...care of House & Garden, 2 Breams Bldg.,
London, E. C., England
WiallkereQea Gull ettesr renter eee 128 E. 37th St., New York City
NVjemmrichter wall [eerie gre 10 E. 43rd St., New York City
Wihitneysstudiosi-r-ries tae ice 147 W. 4th St., New York City
OIE Malls

FLOWER and GARDEN SOCIETIES

American Carnation Society, A. F. J. Baur, Sec’y., Indianapolis, Ind.

American Dahlia Society, Edward C. Vick, Sec’y., 205 Elwood Ave.,
Newark, N. J.

American Gladiolus Society, A. C. Beal, Sec’y., Ithaca, N. Y.

American Iris Society, R. S. Sturtevant, Sec’y., Wellesley Farms, 95,
Mass.

American Peony Society, A. P. Saunders, Sec’y., Clinton, N. Y.

American Rose Society, J. C. Wister, Sec’y., 606 Finance Bldg., Phila-
delphia, Pa.

American Sweet Pea Society, William Gray, Sec’y., Bellevue Ave.,
Newport, R. I.

Chrysanthemum Society of America, C. W. Johnson, Sec’y., 141
Summit St., Rockford, Tl.

The American Forestry Association, 1410 H St., N. W., Washing-
iam, 1D), Ce

The Garden Club of America, Mrs. S. Sloan, Acting Pres., 45 E. 53rd
St., New York City.

The Women’s National Farm & Garden Association, Mrs. Francis
King, Pres., 414 Madison Ave., New York City.

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