Se 7s i: 23 eed 2 Iw to Beautify ur lhlome Gioun NS Y4bu By Wm.P Stark — Stark City,Missouri ? ive and Inviting is Yard Attract t Th The enjoyment of your back yard will be greatly increased by a combination of the useful and the ornamental. Isn natural” ce oO ‘ A459 MAR -7 1917 OC! Se FOREWORD if ANDSCAPE GARDENING has “—“ developed wonderfully the last few years. The big spectacular parks have received the most attention, but the greatest progress has been in the improvement of home surroundings in city, town, and country. This booklet is for the home-maker. It is not a complete text book on land- scape gardening, but it does give the William P. Stark. information necessary for planting suit- able trees and shrubs about the home, and tells how to arrange and care for them. Many who want to beautify their homes hesitate because they have had no experience and are not familiar with trees and plants. They have also been discouraged by the average writer’s talk of “orading,”’ “artificial ponds,” and other expensive features. Yet the correct planting of a place is a simple matter and inexpensive. Imitate Nature. It is really very easy when you get the idea. Nature uses many trees and shrubs and acres of ground to produce her effects, while the home ground is comparatively small. But the prin- ciple is the same. It is possible to plant your place and make it look beautiful, natural, and much larger than it actually is. That is the best form of landscape gardening. It never goes out of style, but be- comes more beautiful each year. If you cannot do it all now, you can at least make your plans and carry out a part of them from season to season. eit. Cele ss | After Planting. GENERAL PRINCIPLES 3 How often you see a cozy little home nestling among vines, flowers, trees, and with stretches of open lawn! By itself it is only a plain little house, but the flow- ers and shrubs give it beauty and character, and help wonderfully to make it a home. It shows good taste and thoughtful attention, although not necessarily the expenditure of much money. Planting is like painting a picture. The trees and shrubs are your colors. The rules for successful planting are simple and few. Plant the outer border of your place with masses of dense, rather tall-growing shrubbery, giving a distinct outline and form to your property. Keep the taller-growing plants well back, then the medium-growing, and next the low-growing at the inner edge, forming a dense rounding mass of shrubbery which gradually meets the lawn. Flant round- ing masses of shrubbery in the corners, as well as along the boundary line. Avoid too many straight lines and geometrical angles. Have a number of different kinds of plants, but enough of one type in a place to produce a definite efiect of rich shade, color, flower, or fruit. Use vines and shrubs, not to display their own characters, but to mask sharp lines of buildings and as a frame for distant views. Around the house have open stretches of lawn. It is especially important to keep small yards open. ) SS er) Aied Hs oO The Wrong Way. The Right Way. The above shows the effect of having the This shows how the proper planting relieves shrubs and trees planted in straight lines and the stiffness of the yard and makes a more angles like the boundaries of the yard. It is attractive setting for the house, at the same stiff and unattractive. time giving an effect of greater extent. Generally avoid planting in straight lines about the lawn. You will note that the most beautiful natural scenery is strikingly devoid of straight lines. The boundary and building lines about the home lawn are usually straight. Therefore, to have the lawn as pleasing as possible, it is all the more necessary that the shrubs and trees be planted in irregular masses and groups to relieve the stiffness of the existing straight lines as much as possible. CIVIC IMPROVEMENT 9 : In nearly every community there are unsightly, disreputable spots similar to the above. They impress visitors unfavorably and retard the growth and development of the town. The responsibil- ity for such conditions lies with the owner, the mayor, and every other citizen. : This picture shows the great improvement which a little thought, time, and effort has produced in the place shown above. Unfortunately, property-holders and business men, whose interests are most vitally affected, usually leave such improvements to the women’s clubs and schools. 10 ORNAMENTAL TREES Norway Maple (Acer Platanoides). Everybody appreciates fine trees for their beauty and utility. Every member of the family should plant a tree in the yard. They grow larger and more beau- tiful every year, adding value to your property. Plant trees now; time will do the rest. Fast-growing kinds are often planted between others and are cut out when the longer-lived, slow-growing trees are big enough. WINDBREAKS Windbreaks can be made by planting Norway, Sugar or Silver Maple, or Linden (Basswood), These tall-growing trees should be set twenty feet apart, with a second row of Russian Olive. This tree grows lower and bushier and should be planted eight feet apart. The Carolina Poplar and Lombardy Popiar are also very good, quick-growing, tall trees, but not so long-lived. BECHTEL DOUBLE-FLOWERED CRAB ‘The flowers are a beautiful pink; very speerlge | (P. Ioensis) sweet-scented; two inches in diameter. Best of all the double-flowered Crabs. From a distance the tree looks as if it were loaded with roses. Blooms in May. Grows thirty feet tall. Hardy. Dogwood. Bechtel Crab. ORNAMENTAL TREES 1] BLACK WALNUT The Black Walnut is native to the entire eastern half of the (Jugians Nigra) United States and suited to all parts of the West; succeeds on alkali land; leaf-stems one to two feet long, with thirty or more small,‘tapering, pointed, bright green leaflets on each central stem. Nuts are round, one and one- half inches in diameter; highly flavored kernel; prized by confectioners for richness and quality. Wood 's hard, strong, very durable, a beautiful dark brown; used for cabinet-making, gun stocks, ete, Walnut furniture now sells for more than ma- hogany. The tree is open, spreading, and a faster grower than hickory; attains a height of 60 to 100 feet, sometimes 150 0n fertilesoil, Should be planted as an orna- mental tree, as a nut tree, and as the most valuable fast-growing timber tree of all. DOGWOOD, COMMON The common (Cornus Florida) white-flowering Dogwood; grows wild in the woods aleng streams. Large, creamy-white flowers, three to four inches across, come early in the spring before the leaves, followed by clusters of scarlet berries in the fall. Hardy. Grows twenty to thirty feet tall. ELM, AMERICAN WHITE Beautiful na- (Ulmus Americana) tive shade tree. Fine for avenue or streets. Can be planted close to houses, as the high arch- ing branches leave space for air and light. Golden Rain Tree. Grows up to 100 feet tall. (Koelreuteria Paniculata.) GOLDEN RAIN TREE—VARNISH TREE The most popular decorative tree (Koelreuteria Paniculata) from China, Ornamental through- out the entire season, especially adapted for planting in small yards and in groups or clusters; finely divided; attractive green feliage, turning dark red and gold in autumn; clusters of yellow flowers one to two feet long, appear in May, followed by large, bladdery seed-pods two feet long; hardy, also endures drouth, adapted to planting throughout the United States. Its neat foliage, showy flowers and adapt- ability make it one of the most-desirable medium-sized trees. Grows fifteen to thirty feet high. GREEN ASH A beautiful spreading tree with broad, rounding tcp, (Fraxinus Lanceolata Viridis) slender branches; very hardy, long-lived; a rapid grow- er, especially when young; light green leaves. Extensively planted as an orna- mental street and park tree in towns and cities throughout the entire United States; suited to conditions from Saskatchewan, Canada, to the Gulf of Mexico, and espe- cially valuable in the prairie States of the Northwest; grows sixty to seventy feet high, two or three feet in diameter. 12 ORNAMENTAL TREES HORSE CHESTNUT The most beautiful tree in May—with tall rounded dome (4sculus Hippocastanum) of handsome green leaves and large showy clusters or pyr- amids of white flowers mottled with red. Its dense growth and heavy tent-like leaves make it ideal for shady bowers, roads, or parks in towns and cities in the North and Eastern United States, where it thrives best and is extensively planted. LINDEN, OR BASSWOOD White, fragrant flowers, which attract bees. Large (Tilia Americana) heart-shaped leaves. A rapid grower, often reaching a height of 90 feet. MAPLE, NORWAY A large rounded tree. Dense foliage, smooth, glossy, dark (Acer Platanoides) ereen, turning yellow in the fall. One of the best and long- est lived for street, park, or garden. Grows to 100 feet. MAPLE, SILVER LEAF The White or S:lver Maple is a large, fast-growing tree. (Acer Saccharinum) Very attractive. Should be planted alternately with the slower-growing but more permanent Sugar or Norway Maples, and cut out when the iatter have attained a good size. Grows to 120 feet. MAPLE, SUGAR The Hard or Rock Sugar Maple is the best park, shade, and (AcerSaccharum) street tree of all. Beautiful dark green foliage, which turns red and yellow in the autumn. Moderately fast-growing, but hardy, vigorous, and long-lived. Grows to 100 feet. POPLAR, CAROLINA Fastest-growing tree; slender, sometimes 100 feet high. (P. Carolinensis) Shiny, bright green leaves. Best for crowded districts of large cities, and as a quick shade tree. Sometimes called “the sudden sawlog.” Grows 75 to 100 feet. Should be planted alternately with more permanent trees. Does well in arid States. POPLAR, LOMBARDY One of the most striking and picturesque trees. A tall, (Populus Nigra Italica) narrow, columnar tree, growing 60 to 100 feet straight up. The tall spire-shaped tops are landmarks in almost every populated region from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Canadian frontier to the Mexican boundary. Longer-lived than the Carolina Poplar. Bright, glossy green leaves. Used as a windbreak, as it does not spread out; also extensively planted in the Western country to prevent blowing of sand. It is of special value in landscape work where it is planted to relieve monotonous sky-lines and to increase the apparent height of hills. RUSSIAN OLIVE (Oleaster) The Russian Olive is a large shrub or small tree, (Eleagnus Angustifolia) 12 to 20 feet high—sometimes grows 40 feet. It is a rapid, spreading grower when young, and will develop an immense head unless kept in shape by pruning. The leaves are small, oval, shiny. The glistening silvery foliage is very pleasing in contrast with the green of other trees. In blooming-time it is covered with immense masses of little golden, honey-scented flowers; the bees fairly swarm over them. The fruit is oval, yellow, covered with scales. The Rus- sian Olive is the best tree known for semi-arid regions, as it will stand the most heat and drouth. It makes an ideal low, dense windbreak or hedge. Sometimes . called “the candle tree.’ Very hardy. STAGHORN SUMAC This is a typical Sumac, except that it forms a small (Rhus Typhina) tree, 20 to 30 feet tall. Its beauty has been overlooked by many planters. Fits in wherever a large shrub or small upright tree is desired. The rich, green fern-like foliage gives a tropical effect. ‘The foliage turns a brilliant flaming red in the fall, very conspicuous and beautiful. After the foliage is gone, long clusters of small, round, crimson-red fruit, covered with velvety hairs, re- main during the entire winter. Hardy; grows very fast. Prefers sunlight. (fee page 33, under “‘Shrubs,” for the low-growing form of Sumac.) SYCAMORE, EUROPEAN (Oriental Plane) A large, round-headed, wide-spread- ’(Platanus Orientalis) ing tree, regularly formed, usually with a short, heavy trunk. A beautiful and majestic shade tree. Grows 80 feet tall. A very good street and avenue tree. Good for all soils, even at the sea-side. Succeeds where others fail. More shapely and better tree than the American Plane. Bright green, five-pointed leaves. Hardy. 9 FRUIT FROM YOUR OWN GARDEN THE YEAR ROUND 13 t 80 Feet —>T J.H.Hale Early Rose Krummel Champion Superb Superb 25 Everbearing Strawberry ibe hitpiApearti oe euE Abundance Shropshire Endicott Progressive 25 Se Bea UU OK OK MER KOCK KROME KE KEE Checen 7 Gooseberry 4 Ft. Apart 0 0 o o o erfechon| 7 Currant 4 Ft. Apart o o Oo o Oo 25 Red Raspberry Early Richmond Montmorency Wragg 1 Ft. Apart ~ 1x 2 Cumberland} 10 Black Raspberry fo} 22 Ft Apart oO. Worden PRA 2 A A A a 6 A te ean 4 Grape 8Ft. Apart Bartle!lt Kieffer Rea's Mammoth he 6 a b Reading /25 Asparagus 1Ft. Apart i| BFE — AR UMMM EK KEKE OK Cee l6feet Mercereail eS BlackBer 1Ft ea = ae Bike tran) a Mselee vie sieiael Sansa Linneeus | () © © | Delicious Shrubs ess Shrubs 1imch= 20 Ft A space 80 by 80 feet, with varieties planted asshown on above plan, will more than supply a large family with all the fruit they can use, beginning with strawber- ries early in the spring, followed by cherries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries, early summer apples, apricots, peaches, plums, pears,” grapes, fall and winter apples. Apples may be stored and, with canned fruit and preserves put up during the summer, will give an abundant supply of fruit the year ‘round. Nore: The ground between the fruit trees can be used for the first few years for an additicnal planting of strawberries, blackberries, etc. These will begin bear- ing the second year, and produce a number of crops befcre they have to be taken out to make room for the fruit trees. 14 PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS WHEN TO PLANT Spring is the best time for planting in the northern half of the United States and in the arid Western States. Fall planting has some advantages in other regions, but not sufficient to war- rant postponement from spring to autumn. With low-growing shrubs and Roses, fall planting may be practiced satisfactorily farther north, if protection is provided during the winter by mounding the earth up over them and putting on a mulch. This should be raked off in the spring. The Peony and Iris will reach full blooming strength sooner if planted in the fall. They should be mulched to prevent alternate freezing and thawing, which would heave the roots out of the ground. Fall and winter planting, without pro- viding this protection, may be practiced successfully in Maryland, Delaware, the Virginias, Kentucky; southern parts of Ohio, Indiana, Missouri; all States to the south; eastern part of Oklahoma; Texas and the Pacific Slope, where there are winter rains. ORNAMENTAL TREES Dig the holes large enough to hold the roots without crowding. Cut off broken and injured roots and shorten any that are extra long. Set the tree two inches deeper than it stood in the nursery. Fill in the hole with loose rich dirt, pressing it firmly about the roots. If the ground is dry, pour in several gallons of water before the last four or five inches of dirt are thrown in. After the water soaks in, fill the hole completely with loose dirt. Do not press down the wet dirt about the roots. Pruning Cut out the smaller branches. Shorten the larger ones to four or five good buds. Sometimes the buds near the base of the branch are small and un- developed and may not grow. Care should therefore be taken to leave several large, plump buds on each branch. Do not shorten any branches after the tree starts to grow. The second year, after the tree has made a good growth, the kind of pruning depends on the results desired. Some trees, not planted as shade or road trees, should be kept with low-branching heads. For instance, the Bechtel Flowering Crab is naturally low-growing and the central leaders should be cut out. On the other hand, the Maple, Elm, and other shade trees should keep the central leaders. As the tree gets older, the lower side branches should be cut off, giving room to pass under them. If the central leader is injured, a side branch can be trained to take its place. Shade trees, like other plants, respond to care and attention. Watering dur- ing a hot, dry summer, and cultivation will foster their growth. They will give you shade much sooner if they are not neglected. SHRUBS Spade the ground deep. Make the holes, prune the roots, and set out as directed under “Ornamental Trees,” except that shrubs should be set no deeper than they stood in the nursery. Keep the weeds out. Water often if the season is hot and dry. A mulch of leaves or straw will help to keep the roots moist and cool. During the first winter they should have a heavy mulch of leaves or coarse manure. Pruring At planting-time, cut the branches back one-half to two-thirds. Aiter the shrub is well established, cut out old, weakened canes and shorten those branches only that give the bush an unnatural appearance. It is often necessary also to remove branches on the inside—small weak shoots, which pro- duce poor flowers and detract from the looks of the shrub. Shrubs should not be sheared heavily. Hedges of Privet or Japan Quince are an exception. Prune Hydrangeas and Altheas regularly each winter. They will then produce better flowers, as they blossom in late summer on new wood. Deutzia, Spirea, Japan Quince, Philadelphus, and shrubs which flower on wood of the previous season’s growth should not be pruned until June or July, after they are through blooming. PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 15 Pianting This depends upon the purpose for which the shrub is used. As a gen- Distance eral rule, the distance between shrubs in a mass should be one-third to one-half their height when grown. ‘The distance varies with the size which the shrub will eventually attain. As a rule, shrubs should not be planted in the shade. However, Barberry, Deutzia, Japan Quince, Snowberry, Privet, and Weigela will thrive in shady places. LILAC Dig the holes large enough to hold the roots without crowding. Cut off broken or damaged roots. Set the plant five to seven inches deeper than it stood in the nursery, but do not fill in the last five inches until the plant has made a good growth. The Lilac requires little pruning at any time. Remove broken or uneven branches at planting-time only. The bloom is borne on one-year-old shoots. Re- move the withered flowers. Cut out weak branches entirely just after blooming— do not cut them back. Otherwise, prune for form only. Remove all suckers. For a hedge, set the plants one and a half to two feet apart. For growing flowers for the market, three feet apart in the rows, four to six feet wide. HEDGES There are two kinds of hedges—those with a dense, solid growth which may he Te>t sheared in a formal shape and .e a good fence or barrier. They re cheaper and more attractive than iron or picket fences that require paint- ing. The other kind of hedge is made with more open-growing shrubs. They are more graceful and attractive, but do not make as good a barrier. Privet This plant is more frequently pianted for hedge purposes than any other. There is a hardy variety suited to northern planting. Plants can be set nine inches to a foot apart in the row. Where a very dense hedge is de- sired, the plants can be set in a double row, each plant one foot and the rows also one foot apart. Inpreparing the ground, dig a trench a foot or more deep and set the plants six to eight inches deeper in the ground than they were in the nursery. This will bring three or four of the lower branches below the surface, which, after the first year, will make roots of their own, giving a dense solid growth. The Privet takes readily to shearing. By using the shears repeatedly through- out the summer, trimming the new shoots, while they are tender and soft, the hedge can be trained into any one How to Plant Two-year Privet. of a number of formal shapes; this, Set the plants several inches deeper than they however, EKG MANS SS) great deal of work stood in the nursery, with the lower part of the and is now practiced less frequently. puacches below engilevel oe the seropnd wand A hedge with a naturally rounded e dirt up six or eight inches above the level o = : ; . the ground, to prevent the tops dryingout. Rake ae owth is more attractive im most this off when the buds start to open. situations. 16 PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS Japan Quince can be grown in the same way and can be sheared with :mpunity. Japanese Barberry is a graceful-growing shrub, but should not be planted where a sheared hedge is desired, as it does not take readily to clippmg. However, it forms a good low fence, as its numerous thorns will prevent children and dogs from running through it, although the thorns are not strong enough to tear clothing. Very attractive boundary hedges can be made from Spirea Van Houttei, and Crimson Rambler and Dorothy Perkins Roses. The canes should be cut back within three or four feet of the ground, to prevent their trailing. The Rugosa and Conrad F. Meyer can also be used to very good advantage. All of the tall-growing shrubs form very attractive hedges. These should be set a foot or one and a half feet apart, and low-growing ones, such as Barberry, one foot apart. CLIMBING VINES Boston Set the plants as deep as they stood in the nursery. Protect the top Ivy the first winter after planting, with a mulch of leaves or straw. When once established, it is very hardy. It will climb and cling to wood, brick, rock, ete., anything except an iron support, which gets hot during the summer. Japanese Dig a hole that will take the roots without crowding. Set the crown an Clematis inch below the surface. Clematis should have a rigid support. If a string or wire is used, it allows the wind to blow the plant about, injuring it. Cut out all of the weak growth and during the winter prune the remainder heavily if you want the most bloom. Clematis thrives best when well fertilized and watered during dry weather. Honeysuckle Hall's Honeysuckle will thrive on all soils and under nearly all conditions. Set the vines as deep as they stood in the nursery. Make the hole large enough to take the roots without crowding. It is especially good for verandas, houses, pillars, ete., as the wire netting or lattice it needs to grow on may be loosened and laid flat on the ground while the woodwork is painted. It is one of the few vines that thrive at the seashore and will bloom all summer except during the hot, dry weather. It makes an attractive cover for a fence, where it should be set every six feet. It can also be used to cover steep banks and unsightly places too shady for other plants. For this purpose, set the plants four feet apart each way. The vines will spread in all directions and take root, forming new plants, which make a solid, matted covering for the ground. It will thrive in spite of neglect; but, to secure best results, the ground should be cultivated and given a dressing of manure during the winter, when the older, weaker vines should be cut out. Wistaria Set the plant as deep as it stood in the nursery. [Keep it hoed tke first summer, but after that do not fertilize or attempt to force its growth. It takes several years to come into blooming, and even longer if the growth is forced. The vine should have a strong, permanent support, for it is long-lived and eventually becomes very heavy. It naturally produces rugged, twisted brancles, which are very effective. Where it is desired to cover tke entire surface of a building or arbor, it is necessary to fasten the leaders, keeping them taut, and to train some of tke outside branches. After the vine reaches the blooming age, it may be made to produce enormous quantities of flowers by cutting back the new growth each year to spurs. To cover a tree, plant either the Wistaria or the Trumpet Vine quite a dis- tance from the trunk of the tree, and put several yards of the stem under ground. Trumpet Vine Set the plants as deep as they stood in the nursery. They prefer very fertile soil. The ground should be fertilized every winter. Especially fine for covering rock walls and fences, to which it clings and climbs. Also used in covering buildings. Climbing Roses These should be planted as described under ‘‘Roses.”’ The only pruning necessary is to cut out the old, weakened canes. PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 17 PEONY Peonies can be planted either in the fall or spring. They are vigorous, hardy, and thrive everywhere, except in the low altitudes of the Gulf States and southern California. The ground should be spaded deep, two feet if practicable. Fertile soil is prefera- ble, though not necessary for satisfactory results. Set the crown three inches below the surface of the ground. If planted in the fall, mulch with four or five inches of fine earth and leaves, straw, or coarse stable manure. It is advisable to give the ground immediately around the plant a dressing of manure every winter. The rough trash should be raked off in the spring. Every seven or eight years it is advisable to dig them up and replant them. Cut the roots into two or more parts with a sharp Peony. Peonies make strong shoots. The buds knife. Each part should have three to five ¢an force through several inches of ground. ta The buds of the crown should be set at least eyes. Reset in September or October as de- three inches below the surface of the ground. scribed above. When planting in mass for color effect, set eighteen to thirty inches apart, depending on whether the variety is a strong grower. In growing for cut flowers, set two and one-half feet apart, in rows three and one-half to four feet wide. The tops die in the fall, and should be cut off. Some leave them until spring to mark their place, so that the roots will not be dug up by mistake or injured when the ground is worked over. IRIS The Iris is one of the most beautiful flowers, and can be grown anywhere, on all kinds of scil. It will thrive in spite of neglect where other flowers fail, but gives best results on fertile, well-drained soil. The Iris can be planted either in the fall or spring. Strong plants set in the fall will give more bloom the first season than those set in the spring. Put the crown of the root about two inches below the surface, pressing the dirt firmly around it. Be careful not to get the roots too deep; otherwise they will rot. If planted in the fall, they should be well mulched the first winter with four or five inches of loose soil and leaves or coarse manure. This should be raked off in the spring. For planting along bor- ders and in masses for immediate color effects they can be set eight to ten inches apart. If planted in rows, set eighteen inches apart in rows three feet wide. When the clumps of Iris get large, they can be divided with a sharp spade during their resting period late in August and transplanted. If reset promptly * in fresh earth and watered, they will produce the usual bloom the following spring. 18 PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS ee PHLOX Phlox are hardy and thrive everywhere. Spade the eee | ground well and work it fine. Then dig a hole deep Why eee enough so the crown, or bud, will come one inch below LG f the surface, and large enough so that the roots will not be crowded. Be careful not to get the buds at the base of the stalk tco deep. The old stalk is dead, and the new top must be developed from these buds. Press the earth firmly about the roots. If the plant- ing is done in the fall, mulch with five or six inches of loose earth and leaves. Rake this off in the spring. Blooms can be produced all summer by cutting off the tips of some of the shoots as soon as the buds start to form. ‘These shoots will put out side branches, which provide a later bloom. Plant twelve to thirty inches apart. The tops die to the ground each winter and should be cut off. Some gardeners leave the dead tops until spring, so that the roots will not be dug up by mis- take or injured when the ground is worked over. The roots can be divided as soon as the new sprouts ap- pear above the ground in the spring. This will not ‘prevent their blooming. They should be lifted and re- ; Phlox. set in fresh earth every four or five years to give a rae ay aaes Ra best results. If there is any trouble with mildew, they be set not more than one inch be- Should be divided and transplanted every third year. low the surface of the ground, as Mildew is seldom troublesome; but, where this is the shown above. ease, spray thoroughly with Bordeaux mixture early in the spring. ROSES Roses should have a warm, sunny location. They can be made to grow on any soil, preferably a deep, well-drained, fertile loam. A few bushes of suitable varieties, set out like any other shrub, will thrive almost anywhere with the care usually given to shrubs and other plants. Nothing will respond to care and fer- tilizing as does the Rose, and in order to get the largest, most perfect bloom throughout the entire season, special planting and attention is necessary. When to Plant Roses can be planted either in the fallor spring. (See the general paragraph on “When to Plant,” page 14.) Early planting is best. Roses are handled according to the type of Rose you plant and the results you require. Conrad F. Meyer and Rosa Rugosa may be used as shrubs, in which case they are treated as other shrubs. The climbing Roses are treated very much as other climbing vines. These climbing varieties may also be planted in rows and cut back to form a hedge. When grown for cut flowers, they should be planted in beds and cultivated as any other crop. There are two classes of Roses for planting in beds: the bedding Roses, such as Annie Mulier and Gruss an Teplitz, which produce a profusion of medium or small-sized blooms that are most attractive on the bush and are grown as an ornament in the yard; the other varieties, suchas Snow Queen, Maman Cochet, and Wm. R. Smith, are grown for their attractive individual bloom and used as cut flowers. For planting in beds, the following directions are especially worth while. They will give you results that you never dreamed possible. Follow these methods as far as you can. Soil Preferably a deep, well-drained, fertile loam. Stiff clay can be improved with several loads of sifted coal ashes or sand. ‘To get best results, a great deal of compost or well-rotted manure should be mixed in with the dirt. You can not make the soil too rich, but no newly planted Rose should have its roots within strik- ing distance of even old or well-rotted manure. PLANTING AND_CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 1y For two rows of bushes the beds should be three feet wide, and for three rows four and one-half feet wide, and as long as de- sired. Bushes should be set one and one- half or two feet apart in the bed, depend- ing upon whether they are large growers, like Maman Cochet and Snow Queen, or small, bushy growers, like Annie Muller. When the soil is naturally fertile, spading the ground thoroughly will give good results. When the soil is not naturally fertile, prepare the bed the spring before by spading in well-rotted manure and leaf mold. If the soil is stiff clay, add sand or sifted ashes. A large quantity of manure may be used, providing it is mixed in some months ahead and well rotted before the plants are set. Those who make a specialty of Roses pre- pare beds as follows: Lay out the bed the size desired. Throw out all the dirt to a 4 depth of two or two ann half os and FG Vitioe: “ ‘ ut in six inches of small, crushed stone. t, f Ly Ah A ig t If located near large trees, a border of boards ~ * LEST LT Si f re or permanent concrete should be placed Rose. around the edge, to prevent the tree roots Cover the tops of newly-planted Rose bushes from taking the fertility needed for the with a mound of loose dirt 6 to 12 inches tall. Roses, ‘The bed should be filled in with a [iis nrevents the tops, from drving gut and mixture of one-third or more fertile top soil as the buds start to grow, rake this mound off. from the garden, one-third of the clay sub- When planting budded Roses, the point where soil, and one-third of well-rotted manure. aes We aaeente ine ste Garena They should be well mixed before they are surface of the ground. put in the pit. This mixture should be mounded up some inches above the surface of the ground to allow for settling. If there is not time to allow the ground to settle, it should be thoroughly tramped down as it is put in. Planting The manner of setting Roses depends on how they are propagated. There are two methods: First, by growing from cuttings and green wood tips, which gives a plant on its own roots. Second, by budding on Manetti or other hardy stocks. This method gives strong plants and is necessary for many of the less vigorous varieties. The budded Rose requires particular care in pruning; other- wise, the briar stock will put out suckers below the bud and finally crowd it out. The bud is less vigorous at the start, and sometimes the suckers are allowed to remain by those who fail to distinguish one from the other. But the suckers from the briar stock are easily recognized, as the foliage is different, usually having seven leaflets instead of five, and the cane is nearly covered with thorns. Further- more, the sucker comes up from the root below the surface of the ground, usually several inches from the main stem. Budded Roses should be set so that the point where the bud was inserted in the briar stock is two inches below the surface of the ground. Roses-on-their-own- roots should be set as deep as they stood in the nursery. Dig the hole eighteen inches deep; cut off broken or injured roots; hold the plant in position ; spread out the roots so they do not cross or crowd one another at any point; fill in the holes carefully with the fertile top soil, pressing it firmly in about the roots. A small handful of finely ground bone meal sprinkled in is very helpful. After the hole has been filled and dirt pressed firmly, cut back the top canes one half to two- thirds, and then mound loose dirt up about them for six to ten inches. This -mound of dirt should be placed about the canes whether the plants are set in the fall or spring—otherwise, they are apt to dry out. If the Roses are planted in the fall, this mound should be covered with a thick mulch of straw or leaves. As 20 PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS soon as the buds start to grow, rake away the mound and cut back the canes, leaving two to four buds to each cane. Make this cut just above a sound outside bud, so that the new canes will grow outward and make a shapely bush. Cultivation Just before the growth starts in the spring, spade in well-rotted ma- nure or fertilizer. Avoid deep cultivation, which is apt to break the roots; three inches is sufficient. The ground should be kept well cultivated during the sum- ~mer. Whenit is hot and dry, pour on enough water so as to wet the soil deep. The best time to water Roses is early in the morning, before the temperature rises. Cultivate as soon as the ground is dry enough. Careful cultivation will retain the moisture for a week or more. Never wet the foliage late in the day otherwise mildew will develop. A mulch of peat moss three or four inches deep will make the bed cooler and prevent the roots from drying out. To stimulate rapid growth, frequent wettings with weak manure water are excellent. This is made by soaking a bushel of old rotted manure from the cow barn or pig sty in a barrel of water. Roses are well established after tke first season, and skould be pruned each spring according to their needs; 7. e., remove any old or weak canes and shorten back the others a half to four-fifths before growth starts in the spring. The different varieties of Roses require different pruning, as their habits of erowth vary. Tle following should be pruned lightly: Annie Muller, Maman Cochet, and Wm. R. Smith. The Snow Queen shouldbe pruned moderately. The following should be pruned hard, cutting back the canes to about six buds: General Jacqueminot, Marshall P. Wilder, and Paul Neyron. The following should not be pruned except to remove old, weak canes: Conrad F. Meyer, Dorothy Per- kins, Rosa Rugosa, Crimson Rambler, Climbing American Beauty, and Gruss an Teplitz. Remove the flowers as soon as the petals begin to drop. Do not allow seed- pods to form, except on the Rosa Rugosa, whose pods are quite attractive. Roses Make Very Attractive Hedges. 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TulouIe Ty BIzZjINeG “Spalq 8308134 _ -Aysnq ; (uZiequnyy, sieqieg) ‘TOPUIM [TB Sallog poy ‘aspey MOT ysoq | eSuaq “4oo} S¢Eg 07 F ‘Solllaq pol ‘s1aMop [Bulg ABN esouvder ‘Ailoqieg eee 3 “‘Sulyouelq *ss0108 Iuquiaydag =| (eq; y snjoy,) (snoBl4ég snosiqry]) ‘arayMAIOAS Spaadons *Apavy AOA | “QysudQ 4003 ZT 03g | soyour ¢ ‘pedeys-ljoq ‘ayy Ay —Aine eouiy sjzUSUIUIOD ysng jo ulooTg jo ported | sqnayg jo UlIOT PUB IU SOFT ezIg pues 10[OD suluLoolg SoUIeN UOUIUIOD os[® prnoys i ‘sosvd JoyjO UO UdATS o1e SUOT}dIIOSOp pol[lezecT ‘IO TJOUB YJIM oUO sIvdUIOD 0} LOISBva 4I SaYBUI SOIstojOvAvYO [edrouLId Mey YIM sqnays Jo sfqey sty, ‘sossvim Areqqnays [BUIsI10 Suruueyd ut nFdjay oq 22 THE UNIT COLLECTION PLAN Planting the Home Grounds By Frank A. Waugh, Landscape Gardener Frank A. Waugh is Professor of Horticulture at Massachusetts Agricultural College, Amherst. He is the author of ‘Landscape Gardening” and other excellent books, which are valued not only for reliable information, but also for the direct, concise, simple presenta- tion. We were indeed fortunate in securing his plans and presentation of this unit collection idea. William P. Stark. “The three accompanying plans are designed to represent typical cases. They present the usual forms of home grounds. The first one shows the average size and form of city lot, the second an example of a suburban place, and the third a representative farm yard. In each case the plan indicates how the grounds may be planted to secure the best effect, having in view economy of first cost and the lowest possible cost of upkeep. The novel feature of these plans, and the one which should prove of practical service to the home-owner, is the arrangement of unit col- lections of trees, shrubs, and other plants for carrying out the designs. This scheme has certain manifest advantages. 1. It gives an intelligible design. They are to the home-builder what patterns are to the dress-maker. 2. The nurseryman can keep these standard collections in stock and can sell them at lower prices than usually charged, thus effecting a substantial economy for the buyer. 3. The buyer can substitute certain units for others, or make other changes according to his own taste or discretion. 4. The home-builder can buy a portion of the necessary plants from year to year, thus distributing the outlay over several years. It need not be expected that these plans will exactly fit every place. On the contrary, modifications of greater or less degree will be required in adjusting these patterns to a majority of places. Such changes should be freely made according to the taste of the home-owner, but, in order that the final result may be as successful as possible, it is highly important to make such alterations in harmony with the principles of design which have controlled in the original plans. Some of the most important of these principles should be stated here and carefully con- sidered by everyone who undertakes this sort of work.” THE UNIT COLLECTION PLAN 23 “1. Have a definite design or plan for the entire place. Follow this plan just as you would follow the architect’s plan for the house. 2. Plant in masses or continuous borders. Single detached specimens should ) be seldom used; stiff, round bunches or ‘‘clumps’’ never. 3. Make these border plantings along the boundaries of the home lot. 4. Or else form continuous screens where privacy is desired or where un. pleasant views are to be covered. 5. Also plant continuous or nearly continuous borders along the foundations of the dwelling-house and attached buildings. 6. Heavier masses may be planted at the outer angles of the home lot. 7. Leave the centers open. Never plant trees, shrubs, or flower-beds in the center spaces of the lawn. 8. Make these open lawn spaces as large as possible. Placing the house at one side of the lot will help in this. 9. Place the largest trees to the south and west of the house, so as to have shade from noon till night. 10. Divide up the space so as to serve all purposes to advantage. A fully equipped house lot should have three parts, viz.: (a) a small, neat front yard; (b) a service yard for hanging out the wash, handling the poultry, or any other necessary work; (c) a good large family yard, or lawn, with some privacy, where the family can read, visit, play croquet, or indulge in any other domestic recreations. 11. Plant native, hardy trees, shrubs and flowers by preference. Avoid showy freaks and all unnatural-looking specimens. Also avoid all showy ornaments, such as white-washed stones, flower-beds edged with soda-pop bottles, iron dogs, deer, etc: 12. Place flower-beds in the back yard rather than in the front yard. 13. Use few varieties of trees and shrubs, and a considerable number of each variety. The collections offered in this book: necessarily include several different kinds, and represent the extreme limit to which it is desirable to go in the selection of varied materials for a small place. 14. Plant a few things every year. No place will go on forever without additions and repairs. 15. Give proper care. Trees, shrubs, flowers, and lawn grass will not thrive under neglect any more than corn or potatoes. The owner of a farm or home who proposes to improve his home grounds by the aid of Mr. Stark’s nursery service should bear ever in mind one other important fact, that these are merely ready-made designs. There is so much individuality in gardens that the best results can be achieved only when each plan is individually designed. Some people can well afford to employ competent landscape gardeners. The writer and the publisher of this book join in urging this course on everyone who aspires to the very best results. Capable landscape gardeners will be cheerfully recommended to those who ask for such information. But there will always be fifty or a hundred home-gardens to every one person- ally designed by the professional landscape architect. Home-made gardens have their proper and important place in the world; and the service of this book is cordially tendered to those people who use both.” 24 UNIT COLLECTIONS These unit collections are described by Prof. Waugh and are used in the various plans. Collection ‘‘A’’ Trees for ordinary village streets. Plant 15 to 30 feet apart. ’ 5 Silver Maple Collection ‘‘B”’ Street trees for immediate effect. Plant 20 to 30 feet apart. These may be alternated with Elms or other permanent trees and removed in 6 +o 10 years. < 5 Carolina Poplar Collection ‘‘D”’ Trees for narrow or smoky streets. to 30 feet apart 5 Horse Chestnut Collection ‘‘E’’ Hardy. deciduous trees for shade and general ornamental effect. 2 Silver Maple 1 Green Ash Plant 12 2 American Elm 2 Carolina Poplar Collection ‘‘F’’ This Barberry is especially suited for a hedge. It is very hardy, low-growing, with attractive foli- age and red berries, which hang on well into the winter. It has thorns which are sharp enough to prevent children and dogs from trampling it down, but not strong enough to tear the clothing. Set plants about t foot apart. ) Japanese Barberry Collection ‘‘H’’ Medium-height, fine shrubs for places. 3 Spirea Van Houttei 2 Snowball the smaller 5 Deutzia Lemoini 5 Weigela Rosea Collection ‘‘T’’ Hardy shrubbery for border planting, screens, ete. Plant them in continuous borders, not in separate beds, but all plants of the same kind together. Plant about 2 feet apart each way, irregularly, not in rows. 5 Rosa Rugosa 5 Snowball 5 Syringa 10 Snowberry 5 Spirea Van Houttei 1) Japanese Quince 5 Weigela Rosea Coulection ‘‘J’’ Hardy shrubbery for use interchangeably with Collection “I” or in addition to it where desired on Jarger places. Plant in the same manner. 5 Old-fashioned Lilacs, 5 Hydrangea Pan 5 Deutzia, Pride of Grandiflora Rochester 5 High Bush Cranberry 10 Deutzia Lemoini 10 Snowball 5 Prairie Rose Coilection ‘‘K”’ Hardy. native shrubs for naturalistic effects, masses, borders, and sereens. Selected also for fine autumn colors. 5 Staghorn Sumach (Rhus Typhina) 5 Common Sumach (Rhus Aromatica) Collection ‘‘L’’ Large-growing, hardy shrubs for heavy screens, ee out-buildings and big masses generally. 5 Spirea Van Houttei 5 Honeysuckle Japan Bush 5 Syringa 5 Prairie Rose 5 Common Sumach (Rhus Glabra) 5 Dogwood (Cornus Alba or Siberica) Collection ‘‘M”’ Fine, delicate, but hardy shrubs for planting along the foundations of the house, near porches, and where they will be seen at closest range. 5 Spirea Van Hoovttei 10 Deutzia Lemoini 5 Japanese Rose , Globe Flower Collection ‘‘N’’ Lilae should be planted in groups In corners of the back yard or similar places. These budded varieties are as far superior to the common Lilac as grafted Apples are to wild Apples. 2 Ludwig Spath 2 President Grévy (reddish purple) (blue) 2 Madame Abel Chatenay (white) Collection ‘‘O”’ These extra hardy Roses are especially reecom- mended for planting in the northern United States. 2 Paul Neyron (pink) 2 General Jacqueminot 2 Marshall P. Wilder (crimson) (red) 2 Conrad F. Meyer 2 Snow Queen (pure (silvery pink) snow white) Collection ‘‘P”’ These are the best everblooming Tea and Hy- brid Tea Roses. They aze only moderately hardy, and, when planted north of Philadelphia and st. Louis, should 4e given protection in winter by wrappibg with newspapers and pulling the dirt up around the base. 3 Maman Cochet (pink) 4 Wm. R. Smith (creamy 3 White Cochet (white) pink) Collection ‘‘R”’ Showy climbers for front or side porches and other prominent situations. 2 Dorothy Perkins 2 Honeysuckle Collection ‘‘S’’ Climbers for large mixed planting, especially where large screens are to be developed. 2 Honeysuckle 2 Crimson Rambler Rose 2 Clematis Japanese 2 Trumpet Vine Collection ‘‘T’’ Bardy perennial old-fashioned plants for the flower garden. Plant in rich soil and fertilize annually. 3 Peonies, assorted 6 Iris, assorted 6 Phlox, assorted Coilection ‘‘U’’ Twenty assorted Phlox for use in front of the larger shrubbery masses, as a border along the walk, or in the flower garden. 20 Phlox, assorted = Collection ‘‘V’’ Peonies for the flower garden, in groups beside the porch, in angles of the house, beside tne garden gate, or similar places. 5 Festiva Maxima 3 Jeanne d’Are Collection ‘‘W”’ Hardy Iris for any positiou where fine flowers are desired. : 15 Iris, assorted Collection ‘‘X’’ Fine ornamental frvit trees for the lawn. 4 Crab Apple, Hyslop or ixcelsior ys GSE os eee ceeee secant eae eens se SSgeere: ene ATEN NE ZT wed SOLOS) [: | CUFT | KOCLOWT _— — x _ * x f Beets ie nev H Yt O%, » ) 4 [ T é \, Baas ry yaaiea Caan a ) I ResIDENCE CITY RESIDENCE PLAN. This is a typical small lot, 75 feet by 100 feet. is placed on one side, it gives the largest possible space. Note that the shrubbery masses are set close to the outer boundaries to make the grounds appear larger and more extensive At the top of the plan, the hedge of Barberry (FF) takes the place of a fence. Phlox, or Iris can be planted, or such annuals as N sturtiums or small vegetables. Every square foot must be used to the best advantage. When the house Just below it in the “flower border,” Peonies This plan should also be used for a small lot in a town or village, using a somewhat different variety of trees. Collection ‘‘A’’ Trees for ordinary village streets. Plant 15 to 30 feet apart. 5 Silver Maple Collection ‘‘B’’ Street trees for immediate effect. Plant 20 to 30 feet apart. These may be alternated with Elms or other permanent trees and removed in 6 to 10 years. 5 Carolina Poplar Collection ‘‘D’’ Trees for narrow or smoky city strects. 12 to 30 feet apart. 5 Horse Chestnut Plant Note: Only one of these three collections to be used in this plan. Collection ''F’’ This Barberry is especially suited for a hedge. It is very hardy, low-growing, with attractive foli- age and red berries, which hang on well into the winter. It has thorns which are sharp enough to revent children and dogs from trampling it down, ut not strong enough to tear the clothing. Set plants about | foot apart. 75 Japanese Barberry Note: Two units are used. Collection ‘‘H’’ Medium-height, fine shrevbs for the smaller places. A 3 Spirea Van Houttei 2 Snowball 5 Deutzia Lemoini 5 Weigela Rosea Collection ‘‘K'’ Hardy, native shrubs for naturalistic effects, masses, borders, and screens. Selected also for fine autumn colors. 5 Staghorn Sumach (Rhys Typhina) 5 Common Sumach 5 Dogwood (Cornus Alba (Rhus Aromatica) or Siberica) Collection ‘‘L"’ Large-growing, hardy shrubs for heavy screens, hiding out-buildings, and big masses generally. 5 Spirea Van Houtte 5 Honeysuckle, Japan 5 Syringa, or Mock Orange 5 Common Sumach (Rhus Glabra) usb 5 Prairie Rose (Rosa ; Setigera) Note: Two of these units are used in this plan. Collection ‘‘M’’ Fine, delicate, but hardy shrubs for planting along the foundations of the house, near porches, and where they will be seen at closest range. 5 Spirea Van Houttei 10 Deutzia Lemoini 5 Japan Rose Collection ‘‘N’’ Lilac should be planted in groups in corners of the back yard or similar places, These buddeo varieties are as far superior to the common Lilar as grafted Apples are to wild ENaet 2 Ludwig Spath 2 President Grevy (reddish purple) (blue) 2 Madame Abel Chatenay (white) Collection ‘'O"’ These extra hardy Roses are especially recom mended for planting in the northern United States 2 Paul Neyron (pink) 2 General Jacqueminot 2 Marshall P. Wilder (crimson) (red) 2 Conrad F. Meyer 2 Snow Queen (pure (silvery pink) white) Collection ‘‘P’’ These are the best everblooming Tea and By- brid Tea Roses. They are only moderately hardy and, when planted north of Philadelpbia and St Lovis, should be given protection in winter by wrapping with newspaper and pulling the dirt ur around the base. » 3 Maman Cocheat (pink) 3 Wm. R. Smith (creamy 3 Waite Cochet (white) pink) Collection ‘‘V’’ Peonies to be used in the flower garden, i» groups beside the porch, in angles of the house. beside the garden gate, or in similar places. 3 Festiva Maxima 3 Jeanne d’Are SUBURBAN HOME PLAN. This place is 140 feet by 160 feet. The margins are not planted as closely as in the smaller town or city lot. You will note that the method of planting produces the effect of greater expanse. conceals the unsightly foundations. Two (M) collection units are used in front, one at the right, the other at the left of the front steps. directly into the flower garden, which is planted on three sides to secure privacy. The shrubbery mass (H) sereens the laundry yard and other buildings from view, except from the kitchen. The hedge along the “drive” 4 single row. The street trees in front are 5 Silver Maples—Colleetion ‘A but some prefer to plant the slower-growing, longer-lived Sugar Maples between. ‘Those fast-frowing trees : cut out s The lawn in front is kept open, but the shrubbery Steps at the side lead is a double row of plants set a foot apart each way. It makes a more desirable hedge than These quick-growing trees will last a great many years, at the places indicated, and Silver Maples and Poplars in soon as the Sugar Maples have attained sufficient size, Yor the orchard, no collections are specified, as the kinds and varieties should be selected to suit the soil and locality and taste. Collectio» ‘A’ Trees for ordinary village streets 30 feet apart Plant 15 to 5 Silver Maple Collection ‘‘F’’ The Barberry is especially suited for a hedge It is very hardy, low-growing, with attractive foli- age and red berries, which hang on well into the winter. It has thorns which are sharp enough to prevent children and dogs from trampling it down, but not strong enough to tear the clothing. Set plants about 1 foot apart. 75 Japanese Barberry Two units are used in this plan Collection ‘‘H’’ Medium-height, fine shrubbery for the smaller laces. Spirea Van Houttei 2 Snowball Note: 5 Deutzia Lemoini 5 Weigela Rosea Collection ‘‘I’’ Hardy shrubbery for border planting, screens, eto. Plant them in continuous borders, not in separate beds, but all plants of the same kind . 5 Spirea Van Houttei together. Plant about 2 feet apart each way, irregularly, not in rows 5 Rosa Rugosa 5 Spirea Van Houttei nowball 10 Japanese Quince yringa 5 Weigela Rosea nowberry Collection ‘‘J’’ Hardy shrubbery for use interchangeably with Collection “I” or in addition to it where desired Place in the same manner on larger places. 5 Named Lilacs 5 Hydrangea Pan 5 Deutzia, Pride of Grandiflora Rochester 5 High Bush Cranberry 10 Deutzia Lemoini 10 Snowball (Viburnum 5 Prairie I Opulus St-rile) (Rosa Note: Two units are used in this plan Collection ‘‘M’’ fine, delicate, but hardy shrubs for planting along the foundations of the house, near porches, and where they will be seen at closest range. 10 Deutzia Lemoini 5 Japanese Rose, Globe Flower Note: Two units are used in this plan. _———— CRooveT A general plan for the fruit garden, page 13, shows what even a small plot can produce. Collection ''R'’ Showy climbers for front or side porches and other prominent situations 2 Dorothy Perkins 2 Honeysuckle Collection ‘'T’’ Hardy, perennial, old-fashioned plants for the flower garden. Plant in rich soil and fertilize annually. 6 Phlox, assorted 3 Peonies, assorted 6 Iris, assorted Collection ‘‘U’’ Twenty assorted Phlox for use in front of the larger shrubbery masses, as a border along the walk, or in the flower garden. 20 Phlox, assorted Collection ‘‘V”’ Peonies for use in the flower garden, in groups beside the porcn, in an, of the house, beside the garden gate, or similar places. 3 Festiva Maxima 3 Jeanne d’Aro Note: Two units are used in tais plan Collection '*Ww"’ Hardy Iris for any position where fine flowers are desired 15 Ins, assorted Note: Three units are used in this plan. Collection ‘*X”’ Fine ornamental fruit trees for the lawn 4 Crabapple, Hyslop or Excelsior LAWwaZ7 % tA L \ J rn, ? bee s 4 — * Ee Seis sas fo ¢ x x » . \ HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PLAN. Spend enough time on your plan to make it complete. Then in later seasons, when you add more shrubs, roses, ete., they will harmonize with your first planting. Perhaps you do not care to do all your planting at one time. Tn any case, you will avoid the evils of the “hit-and-miss” method, and secure the best results, if you first lay out a definite, complete plan. You know the dimensions of your grounds, or can easily measure them. Each square in the cross-section sheet represents one foot. (You can let each square represent two feet or more, according to the size of your place.)* Locate the house in the proper place, drawing to scale. Draw in other buildings, walks, trees, and other permanent objects. Determine what part of the grounds should be kept open. If you have an attractive view from a window, do not obstruct the outlook by your planting. Mark the location for the planting of trees, shrubs, etc., accord- ing to the principles explained in this book and illustrated on the blue prints. Locate the collections to meet your particular taste and requirements. The result will be comparable with the effect secured by an ex- pert, and your satisfaction will be the greater because you have done it yourself. *Note: Use a pencil then you can erase if necessary. —————Ee——— Ty Scale 0----10---20--- 30--- 40--- 50--- 60--- 70--- 80---90---100 Feet. JRLVE TO FARM BUILDINGS SEES: ee ee es. e 2 Sse i -QROHARD at Pais esis) A ae ee aa sr i ‘ pee COUNTRY RESIDENCE. The more open surroundings make it unnecessary to plant the margins as closely as on a small lot. and buildings in the rear. Note how collection (KX) is placed to cut off the view of the barn The shrubbery is planted in larger masses in keeping with the wide, open spaces. The Silver Maples along the main highway at ‘“‘A”’ may be planted with the slower- growing Sugar Maples in between. Maples reach the desired size. The former can be cut out as soon as the Sugar Where the soil and other conditions will permit, the home orchard should be located near the house. Collection “A” Trees for ordinary village streets. Plant 15 to 30 feet apart. 5 Silver Maple Note: this plan. Two of these units are used in Collection ‘‘E” Hardy deciduous trees for shade and general ornamental effect. 2 Silver Maple 1 Green Ash 2 American Elm 2 Carolina Poplar Collection ‘‘J” Hardy shrubbery for use interchange- ably with Collection ‘‘I”’ or in addition to it where desired on larger places. Plant in continuous borders, not in sep- arate beds, but put all the plants of each kind tcgether.. Plant about 2 feet apart each way, irregularly, not in rows. 5 Old-fashioned]Lilacs 5 Hydrangea 5 Deutzia, Pride of Pan, Grandiflora, Rochester 5 High Bush Cran- 10 Deutzia Lemoini berry 5 Prairie Rose 10 Snowball (Viburn- (Rosa Setigera) um Opulus Sterile) Note: this plan. Two of these units are used in This will insure better care and greater convenience. Collection ‘‘K”’ Hardy native snrubs for naturalistic effects, masses, borders, and screens. Se- lected also for fine autumn colors. 5 Staghorn Sumach 5 Common Sumach (Rhus Typhina) (Rhus Glabra) 5 Common Sumach 5 Dogwood (Cornus (Rhus Aromat— Alba or Siber- ica) ica) Collection ‘‘M” Vine, delicate, but hardy shrubs for planting along the foundations of the house, near porches, and where seen at closest range. 5 Spirea Van 10 Deutzia Lemoini Houttei 5 Japanese Rose, Glove s'lower Note: Two of these units are used in this plan. Collection ‘*S” Climbers for large mixed planting, es- pecially where large screens are to be developed. 2 Honeysuckle 2 Trumpet Vine 2 Clematis, Japanese 2 sa ag Rambler ose Collection “T”’ Hardy perennial old-fashioned plants for the flower garden. Plant in rich soil and give some fertilizer annually. 3 Peonies, assorted 6 Phlox, assorted 6 Iris, assorted COUNTRY RESIDENCE. The more open surroundings make it unnecessary to plant the margins as closely as on a small lot. Note how collection (K) is placed to cut off the view of the barn and buildings in the rear. The shrubbery is planted in larger masses in keeping with the wide, open spaces. The Silver Maples along the main highway at ‘‘A”’ may be planted with the slower- growing Sugar Maples in between. Maples reach the desired size. The former can be cut out as soon as the Sugar Where the soil and other conditions will permit, the home orchard should be located near the house. Collection ‘‘A”’ Trees for ordinary village streets. Plant 15 to 30 feet apart. 5 Silver Maple Note: Two of these units are used in this plan. Collection ‘‘E” Hardy deciduous trees for shade and general ornamental effect. 2 Silver Maple 2 American Elm 1 Green Ash 2 Carolina Poplar Collection ‘‘J” Hardy shrubbery for use interchange- ably with Collection ‘‘I” or in addition to it where desired on larger places. Plant in continuous borders, not in sep- arate beds, but put all the plants of each kind tcgether.. Plant about 2 feet apart each way, irregularly, nct in rows. 5 Old-fashioned]Lilacs 5 Hydrangea 5 Deutzia, Pride of Pan, Grandiflora, Rochester 5 High Bush Cran- 10 Deutzia Lemoini berry 5 Prairie Rose 10 Snowball (Viburn- (Rosa Setigera) um Opulus Sterile) Note: this plan. Two of these units are used in This will insure better care and greater convenience. Collection ‘‘K”’ Hardy native snrubs for naturalistic effects, masses, borders, and screens. Se- lected also for fine autumn colors. 5 Staghorn Sumach 5 Common Sumach (Rhus Typhina) (Rhus Glabra) 5 Common Sumach 5 Dogwood (Cornus (Rhus Aromat— Alba or Siber- ica) ica) Collection ‘‘M”’ Fine, delicate, but hardy shrubs for planting along the foundations of the house, near perches, and where seen at closest range. 5 Spirea Van 10 Deutzia Lemoini Heouttei 5 Japanese Rose, Glove tlower Note: Two of these units are used in this plan. Collection ‘‘S” Climbers for large mixed planting, es- pecially where large screens are to be developed. 2 Honeysuckle 2 Trumpet Vine 2 Clematis, Japanese 2 ee Rambler ose Collection “‘T” Hardy perennial old-fashioned plants for the flower garden. Plant in rich soil and give some fertilizer annually. 3 Peonies, assorted 6 Phlox, assorted 6 Iris, assorted SHRUBS—DESCRIPTIONS 25 SHRUBS Shrubs are the most important ornamentals. They are valued and appreci- ated more and more, as indicated by a thousand sold now to one a generation ago. They have the greatest range of color and bloom, and occupy the most important space in the garden—and they give the quickest results. They are especially valued where there is only room for a few trees. The tall shrubs planted as a boundary make an effectual screen, and even on the larger estates an under- growth of shrubbery is usually planted under the trees along the boundary. Many fine old places have an excellent growth of trees, but lack a proper planting of shrubs. Shrubs are the natural complement of trees, filling in the gap between their branches and the ground, and it is possible to get homelike results from shrubs that it would take years to acquire with trees alone. Anyone who has walked through woods from which all the natural undergrowth has been cleared away by an over-tidy owner, realizes that they have lost half their charm. Trees can not be planted close to a house without robbing it of light and air, but tall shrubs, as a background for lower ones grouped around them, take off the sharpness of the corners, and let the sunshine stream in at the windows. Banked in front of foundation walls, they relieve the harshness of the line where house and land meet. The home nestles cosily in a nest of green, instead of springing suddenly from the lawn like a Jack-in-a-box. It is cheaper to use shrubs to hide a steep bank or a deep cavity than it is to grade them. Many a house set on a narrow ridge of hill-top would appear to be less in danger of falling over the edge if the slopes around it were broadened by shrubs. > 26 SHRUBS—DESCRIPTIONS ALTHEA,* or ROSE OF SHARON (Hibiscus Syriacus) (Totus Alba) A large single bell-shaped white flower, somewhat resembling the Hollyhock, blooming the latter part of the summer, when most other flowers are gone. Blooms from July to September. Flowers are white, three inches in diameter. Bush, upright, eight to twelve feet tall. Use: one of the most satisfactory large shrubs for planting singly, in clumps, in masses, or as a hedge; hardy, succeeds everywhere. Planting Distance, three feet. Prune in winter for profusion of bloom. Do not allow the plant to run up, leaving base bare. Althea. BARBERRY An’excellent shrub for mass planting and hedges. See page 38. DEUTZIA LEMOINI One of the best medium-sized shrubs for planting singly or in masses; a very profuse bloomer. Blooms June-July. Flowers: branches are loaded with clusters of small white bell-shaped flowers. Bush, three to four feet tall, dense, spreading. Use: very effective small shrub for planting singly or around the borders of shrubbery masses. One of the hardiest, thrives everywhere. Planting Distance, two feet. Prune in the spring, cutting out old, weakened canes. Deutzia Lemoini. One’of the best low shrubs. SHRUBS—DESCRIPTIONS 27 DEUTZIA, PRIDE OF ROCHESTER (Deutzia Crenata) This beautiful shrub is taller, more up- right growing than the Deutzia Lemoini, and may be used as a background or in the center of shrubbery masses. ‘The foli- age is particularly bright and clean, and the great profusion of flowers makes it one of the most satisfactory shrubs. Blooms in the early spring, May or June, about two weeks ahead of Deutzia Le- moini. Flowers, white, slightly tinted with pink, borne singly and in clusters. Bush, six to eight feet tall, upright. Used for hedges, shrubbery masses, and a background. Succeeds equally well in the shade and the sunlight. Planting Dis- tance, two feet apart. Prune in summer, just after they are through blooming. Trim the bush as required and cut out all old, weakened canes. Deutzia, Pride of Rochester. DOGWOOD (Siberian Red Osier) Its bright red color is especially desirable for (Cornus Alba Siberica) autumn and winter effects. Do not confuse this with the common Dogwood, described on page 11. Bloom, small and insignificant. It is valuable for its attractive smooth red bark and many clusters of small blue berries. Foliage takes on brilliant colors inthe autumn. Bush, ten feet tall, straight, upright growth. Use as a background for smaller-growing shrubs and single specimens. Succeeds equally well in shady and sunny places. Extremely hardy. Planting Distance, two and a half to three feet apart. Prune lightly in the winter or spring, when the plants are dormant. Cut out all old, weakened canes. GOLDEN BELL The earliest-blooming shrub, April-May. Flowers appear be- (Forsythia Suspensa) fore the leaves and the canes are long wreaths of bright yellow bloom. Flowers, bright yellow, bell-shaped, about an inch long. Bush, six to eight feet tall, spreading and curving over until the tips touch the ground. Use: exceptionally good for planting on the outer margin of shrub groups. It can also be trained over arbors, fences, and porches like a low-growing vine. Hardy, thrives in nearly all soils. Foliage, bright, clean, and untroubled by insects. Plant- ing Distance, about two feet. Pruning: remove any dead or weakened growth in the spring, after it is through blooming. HIGH BUSH CRANBERRY A large (Viburnum Opulus) bush, re- sembling the common Snowball in foliage and somewhat in flower, but the flowers are fertile and develop beautiful clusters of red and gold waxen berries. ‘These form in midsummer and hang on into the winter. Attractive red foliage lasts until late in the autumn. -This fast-growing bush gives quick results. Blooms May-June. The many small white flowers form a ball-like cluster, three to four inches in diameter. Bush, eight to twelve feet high, spreading, up- right, fast-growing. Use: the center of shrubbery masses, as a hedge plant and background for smaller-growing shrubs. Very hardy. Planting Distance, two and a half to three feet apart. Prune in sum- High Bush Cranberry Bloom. 28 SHRUBS—DESCRIPTIONS High Bush Cranberry. The berries are even more beautiful than the flowers, brilliant, waxy, red and yellow. mer, just after;they, are through blooming, cutting out old, weak canes, shortening back those that are too long. HONEYSUCKLE, JAPAN BUSH (Lonicera Morrowii) This beautiful shrub has dense green foliage, and a profusion of flowers, followed by shining red berries, which hang on until winter. It is one of the best ‘‘all-season’’ shrubs. Blooms appear during May and June; small, creamy-white trumpet-shaped flow- ers, an inch long. Bush, five to six feet tall. Dense, spreading, round shape. Use: especially in shrubbery masses wl ere dense foliage is required. Also forms a very attractive natural round hedge. Hardy; succeeds equally in the shade or sunshine; fast grower. Planting Distance, two and a half to three feet. Prune light- ly in the winter or spring, when plants are dormant. Remove the old,. weakened Honeysuckle, Bush (Lonicera Morrowii). canes—also where they are too thick. HYDRANGEA ARBORESCENS STERILIS Conspicuous for its huge white pan- (Hills of Snow) icles of dense balls made up of many little dainty flowers; somewhat resembles the Snowball, but much larger. Blooms in June-July, earlier than any other Hydrangea. Bush, four to ten feet tall, up- right, spreading. Use: for planting in shrubbery mass or hedge ,well back from walks or drives. Its large flowers show up effectively at a distance. Very hardy, fast grower, succeeds equally in shade or sunlight. Planting Distance, two and a half to three feet apart. Prune lightly in the winter or spring when plants are dormant. Cut out old, weakened canes entirely. HYDRANGEA (Large-flowered) This Hydrangea is especially popular, because (H. Pan. Grandiflora) it blooms late in the summer, when flowers are scarce. Its huge clusters of flowers, often a foot long or more, are larger than those of any other shrub. It also has beautiful foliage. Bloom is white, turning to pink with the first frost. Bush, eight to ten feet tall, upright, spreading, fast-growing. Use in shrubbery masses and hedges, well back from walks and drives. Thrives best in the sun; very hardy. Planting Distance, two and a half to three feet. Prune lightly in the winter or spring, when the plants are dormant. Prune severely for quantity of flowers, less so for larger trusses. 29 SHRUBS Hydrangea Paniculata Grandiflora. Hydrangea Arborescens Sterilis (Hills of Snow). BAO) SHRUBS—DESCRIPTIONS JAPAN QUINCE One of the most at- tractive early-flowering shrubs. (See page 38, under “‘ Hedges,’ for complete descrip- tion.) JAPANESE ROSE, GLOBE FLOWER (Kerria Japonica) An old garden favorite. Dainty, graceful flowers and foliage; especially good near walks and drives where it will be seen close- ly and becaaise it blooms throughout the entire season. Blooms appear very early in May and continue throughout the summer; bright yellow, resembling small single roses. Bush, four to eight feet tall; broad-spread- ing, with many short, slender, drooping branches and twigs which retain the green color throughout the spring. Use: espe- cially in border or as a specimen. Hardy; thrives in any good garden soil; it does well in sunlight, but prefers partial shade. Planting Distance, two feet apart each way. Prune lightly in winter or spring, Japanese Rose, Globe Flower. when plants are dormant. (Kerria Japonica.) PRAIRIE ROSE This is a true Rose, but is listed here because it is most val- (Rosa Setigera) able asa shrub, one of the most beautiful for planting near the walks and drives where it will be seen closely. The best ‘Wild Rose.” Flowers, large, single, rose-colored, one and a half inches across; in large clus- ters. Blooms late in July or August; very attractive red seed-pods form the latter part of the summer. Flowers are like wild Roses, single, rose-colored. Bush grows six feet tall; forms dense, spreading bush. Use: extremely hardy, thrives everywhere, even in trying sit- uations. Planting Distance, two feet apart each way. Prunelightly in win- ter or spring when plants are dormant. PRIVET Used for hedges more than any other shrub. When sheared closely it forms no flowers; otherwise, it will produce clusters of small flowers re- sembling the Lilac. Its bright glossy fo- hage makes a very attractive back- ground for other low-growing shrubs. Grows 10 to 15 feet: tall. Prairie Rose (Rosa Setigera). SHRUBS—DESCRIPTLONS 3] ROSA RUGOSA (his is a true Rose, (Japanese) often planted in the ex- treme North for its flowers, but its great- est value is as a shrub, as it has unusually attractive dark green foliage and red seed pods. Blooms appear in May and continue un- til midsummer. Flowers are large white single roses, three inches or more across, followed by clusters of large reddish seed- pods. Bush, four to five feet tall, dense upright growth. Use as hedge or shrub- bery mass; extremely hardy. Planting Distance, two feet apart. Pruning: do not prune except to remove the old bark-bound canes in the winter or early spring. SNOWBALL An old-time (Viburnum Opulus Sterile) carden favorite. Blooms in early spring, May or June. Flowers, large round clusters of many small sterile blooms. Bush, six to nine feet tall; upright dense growth. Use as center of shrubbery masses or a_ back- ground for small-growing shrubs. Hardy, adaptable everywhere. Planting Dis- tance, two and a half to three feet. Prune in summer, just after blooming, cutting out old canes, shortening back the new growth. SNOWBERRY One of the (Symphoricarpus Racemosus) (@aintiest, most attractive small shrubs, especially good for planting near walks and drives. Clusters of pearly white berries develop early and hang until late winter. Blooms appear very, early May or June; small and insignificant, but the clusters of round, white berries are very attractive. Bush grows four to five feet tall, droop- ing gracefully. Use at the outer margin of the shrubbery border, as single plants, also as a hedge, as it will stand a great deal of shearing; very hardy; thrives in thie shade orsun. Planting Distance, one-half to two feet apart. Prune lightly in the winter or spring, when plants are dor- mant. Cut out old, weakened canes. Snowball. ° (Viburnum Opulus Sterile.) Snowberry. (Sympboricarpus Racemosus.) 32 SPIREA—DESCRIPTIONS SPIREA Most attractive shrub of all; (S. Van Houttei) can be used in more ways and places and will give more satisfaction than any other shrub. The flowers and foli- age are dainty and attractive near walks and drives where itt will be seen closely, yet the foliage is dense and the flowers so numerous that it is equally satisfactory to plant where it will be seen at adistance. It is the favor- ite everywhere, succeeding on all soils and under all conditions. If you plant only one shrub, it should be Spirea. Blooms early—May or June. Flowers are white, very small. The clus- ters or “‘rosettes’’ appear in profusion the en- tire length of the branches. Form graceful, drooping wreaths. Bush, four to six feet tall. Use singly, in shrubbery border, hedge, or masses to hide the foundation of the house. Hardy, thrives in spite of neglect. Planting Distance, two feet. Prune lightly in the winter or when plants are dormant. Shorten back young canes and cut out the old, weakened ones entirely. ee ae 2 a a. SOMMER, \\ Shrubbery Planting. The Spirea Van Houttei bears a small, dainty fiower, but in such profusion that it*is one of the most conspicuous shrubs, Note the two large clumps on either side of the walk. SHRUBS—DESCRIPTIONS 33 SUMAC There is a growing appreciation of the beauty of our native plants, (Rhus Glabra) which are also lardier and more vigorous than imported varieties. The Sumac is one of our most beautiful native shrubs. Its large fern-like leaves make it especially attractive as a foliage plant. Bloom appears in June, but its great attractiveness is in the long tapering clusters of crimson berries and fern-like foliage. Foliage turns bright red in the autumn. Bush, ten to fifteen feet tall, upright, spreading, fast grower. Use on rocky places or steep embankments where other shrubs will not thrive, or as a background for other shrubs. Extremely hardy; thrives best in the sun. Planting Distance, three feet apart. Pruning: for best results, cut back to the ground every other year or so. It will sprout fresh from the stump. If unpruned, it grows tall and ragged. SUMAC Similar to the Sumac described above, but smaller-growing and (Rhus Aromatica) better for use where a low-growing shrub is desired. It has a very pleasant woodsy fragrance. Flowers appear early before the leaves, fol- lowed by clusters of small coral-red berries, which stay on throughout the winter. Bush, three to eight feet tall, low-spreading head, especially suited for planting at the edge of large shrubbery masses or under trees. Thrives everywhere. Planting Distance, two feet. Prune same as Sumac Glabra. SUMAC STAGHORN This is tall-growing and is used where a small tree is desired. See description under ‘‘Ornamental Trees,” page 12. SWEET SHRUB, OR CAROLINA ALLSPICE This old favorite has small, vel- (Calycanthus Floridus) vety, dark red flowers, and a sweet, penetrating fragrance that is very pleasant. Blooms in June and at intervals throughout the summer. Wood is also fra- grant. Flowers are dark, dull red. Bush, three to six feet tall, upright. Use in shrubbery masses near walks or the outer margins of shrubbery masses. Hardy, succeeds in the shade. Planting Distance, one and a half to two feet apart. Prune in the summer, just after the first bloom. Sumac Staghorn (Rhus Typhina). The fern-like foliage with long plumes of small red berries adds character and distinctiveness to shrubbery planting. This Sumac is used as a large shrub or a small ornamental tree. (See page 12.) 34 DESCRIPTIONS—SHRUBS SYRINGA, OR MOCK ORANGE One of the most fragrant white flowers. With (Philadelphus Coronarius) yellow stamens at the center, the blooms resemble orange blossoms. Blooms in June; white flowers with yellow centers, an inch or more across; fragrant. Bush, seven to ten feet tall, straight, upright growth. Use especially for a hedge to screen unsightly views and for planting in the centers of masses where tall, upright shrubs are required. Hardy, succeeds either in sun or shade. Planting Distance, two feet apart. Prune lightly in winter or spring when plants are dormant. : ‘ oS . Oe Syringa, or Mock Orange (Philadelphus Coronarius). WEIGELA ROSEA Bright rose-colored, trumpet-shaped flowers, like the Honey- . (D. Florida) suckle, borne in long, graceful sprays; suited for planting near the walks, as well as at a distance, but necessary in every shrubbery border large or small. Blooms very early—May or June, just after the Lilacs. Best flowering shrub of the season. Continues to produce some blooms throughout the summer. Flow- ers are a beautiful rose color, in great profusion; very striking and attractive. Bush, about six feet tall, upright, spreading growth, especially attractive foliage and unusually free from insects and diseases. Does well in the shade and under large trees where others fail. Generally adaptable everywhere. Extremely hardy. Planting Distance, two feet apart. Pruning: thin out the old wood, cutting part of it back to the ground any time during the late winter or spring. ye : ‘ x = : “hak ‘ & | a ie a Weigela Rosea (D. Florida). LILACS 35 The old-fashioned purple Lilac has a delicious fragrance that lingers in the memory from one blooming season to another. No shrub has been so highly de- veloped under cultivation. The best new varieties have immense clusters of large plumes, laden with sweetness. Some are double, some single. The white, reddish purple, and blue varieties lend themselves to many color schemes. The Lilae grows rapidly, flowers profusely, has beautiful rich green foliage, free from insects. It can be used in many ways; for hedges, masses, for hiding ob- jectionable sights, and, when planted alone, it makes a good bush, which improves with age and bears more blooms each year. Cut flowers from the improved varieties find a ready sale on the city markets. The old flower clusters should be removed, and the pruning done as soon as they are through blooming, as the bloom buds for next year form late the preceding summer. LILAC, OLD-FASHIONED PURPLE So well known as to need no detailed (S. Vulgaria) description. Grows eight to ten feet tall. Upright. Hardy. Suitable for mass or hedge. LUDWIG SPATH Long plumes of single, perfectly formed, little flowers of a dark reddish purple. The inside of the flower is darker than the outside, showing beautiful contrasting shadows. Blooms in May or June. Upright; six to eight feet tall. Hardy. MADAME ABEL CHATENAY Large trusses of plumes. The dainty little flow- ers are double and of exceeding purity and whiteness. The best of all the whites. Blooms in May or June. Upright; six to eight feet tall. Hardy. PRESIDENT GREVY A light blue. Double. The trusses are unusually large and perfect. One of the rarest and best. Blooms in May or June. Upright; six or eight feet tall. Norre.—There is as much difference between the budded Lilacs—Ludwig Spath, Madame Abel Chatenay, President Grevy—and the Old-fashioned purple as there is between the new varieties of fruits and wild seedlings. The budded varieties are uniform, have larger bloom, greater fragrance and beauty. Lilae—Madame Abel] Chatenay, pure white Lilac—Ludwig Spath, reddish purple 36 CLIMBING VINES c Many and varied are the uses of climbing vines—to drape, to mantle, to cover, to frame, to beautify, to protect, to transform, to screen, to conceal,. Their soft drapery mercifully hides ugly buildings and other unsightly objects. Shady pergo- las, leafy arches, and pendant garlands cn trees or over hedge-rows make beautiful pictures in themselves. BOSTON IVY _ This vine clings to walls by little adhesive disks and forms a dense (Ampelopsis Veitchii) mt-like foliage, spreading rapidly over walls of two-story build- ings, tall chimneys, foundations, or covering unsightly telephone and trolley-poles. In the autumn it glows with colors as brilliant as the Maple. It loses its leaves in winter, giving any dampness a chance to dry out. Wood and paint that have had the protection of its leaves all summer are found to be in better condition than the exposed parts. Set vines ten to fifteen feet apart. Should have covering the first winter following planting, after which it is hardy. CLEMATIS, JAPANESE Dainty little star-shaped white flowers, borne in clusters, (C. Paniculata) completely cover the upper part of the vine, giving out a rich, honey-like fragrance that carries a great distance. The flowers are lasting and open late in summer, followed by the feathery seeds, which are very attractive. The brilliant, deep green, leathery foliage is very dense and beautiful, often holding on until early winter. The vine is a rapid grower and will clothe large spaces quickly. Set vines eight to twelve feet apart, depending on how dense a screen is desired. Hardy. HONEYSUCKLE, HALL’S Small trumpet-shaped flowers, a pure white, which (Lonicera Japonica Halliana) — gradually change to a light yellow. There is a pow- erful sweetness about them that is wondertully pleasant and also attracts humming- birds. Blooms in June, August, and late fail. Foliage is a rich dark green, that continues through the winter in some places and lasts until Christmas in the North. Climbs up about fifteen feet. Set plants eight to twelve feet apart, when used as a screen. Set five feet apart, when vine is to train on the ground and form a carpet. Can be used in this way to cover unsightly banks. Hardy. Honeysuckle. Clematis, Japanese. CLIMBING VINES 37 TRUMPET VINE (Trumpet Honeysuckle) The Trumpet Vine is one of the most (Tecoma Radicans) satisfactory vines. It has been truly named, for the flowers, borne in clusters at the tips of its many branches, have a marked resemblance. to trumpets. They are about three inches long, and a striking orange-red or scarlet. It blooms from July to the end of the summer. The flowers are very attractive, and the foliage has an even greater charm—a combination seldom found in any one vine. The leaves are made up of small leaflets arranged along the stem, and the foliage is so heavy and luxuriant that it forms graceful masses, which are especially fine for covering fences, rock walls, banks, trellises, and tree trunks. The branches will cling to either wood or brick by means of little rootlets at the joints of the vine. With its rich, dark green fcliage and graceful habits, it brings the atmosphere of the natural w oods to your garden. It is hardy, a very fast grower, and will give results when planted in new places. Set vines ten to fifteen feet apart. WISTARIA, JAPANESE The best permanent vine. A climbing tree in itself, (W. Chinensis Multijuga) often attaining great size and age. Can be trained on walls, arbors, ete., and is especially beautiful when the vine is growing over and through a live Locust tree—the foliage and flowers resemble each other, but the Wistaria blooms later than the Locust. The foliage is a light green. The delicate pea-like flowers are borne in clusters one to three feet long—several times longer than the old Chinese Wistaria. This is the true Japanese Wistaria, which isa beau- tiful purple. There are a hundred or more small flowers in one cluster. Blooms early, with a second small crop of flowers in August. Thrives best when left severely alone, One vine will cover a large space, but to get quick results it is best to set them every ten or fifteen feet. Don’t prune; don’t fertilize. Hardy. For other climbers, see under Roses. Wistaria. Ivy and Climbing American Beauty Rose. 38 HEDGES The hedge takes the place of a disfiguring fence and makes a beauty of a necessity. There are hedges for all kinds of surroundings, straight, upright Altheas or gracefully drooping Spirea, as well as the closely clipped hedge of Privet, the Japan Quince, or the thorny Barberry. For planting distances, see page 16. Barberry (Japanese). The best low-growing protective Hedge—requires no attention. BARBERRY, JAPANESE Graceful arching twigs. Foliage coppery scarlet in the (Berberis Thunbergii) fall. Many decorative berries, which hang on all win- ter. Three to three and one-half feet tall. Quick grower. Unusually hardy. Thrives North or South. Stands heavy shearing, but usually does best when per- mitted to grow naturally. The best low ornamental defensive hedge. Has many small thorns, but they will not tear the clothing. Succeeds in the shade. HONEYSUCKLE, JAPAN BUSH ‘The Japan Bush Honeysuckle makes a dense, (Lonicera Morrowii) gracefully rounded hedge. Grows five to six feet tall. See page 28. JAPAN QUINCE Bright blooming, scarlet flowers in May, and shiny green foli- (Cydonia Japonica) ave, A close-clipped hedge in bloom forms a wonderful pattern of searlet and brilliant green colors. Grows six to seven feet tall. Has spreading, thorny branches, making a strong defensive hedge. Fest protective hedge and wind-break for flower gardens. .Stands pruning well. Very hardy. Prefers the sun. PRIVET, CALIFORNIA Smooth, leathery, bright green leaves, almost evergreen. (Ligustrum Ovalifolium) Stands severest pruning and shearing; cut out old, weak canes during winter. Shear new growths during summer after shoots have made several inches growth; can be trained high or low, and sheared with impunity. Eight to ten feet. Free from disease and insect pests. Sometimes kills back to ground in the North, but grows again. The fastest-growing and most popular hedge plant. PRIVET, IBOTA This is the hardy Privet; beautiful dark, glossy foliage. Suc- (Ligustrum) ceeds in the North, where California Privet is injured by winters. HEDGES 39 Spirea Van Houttei. Makes a very graceful, free-growing Hedge. SPIREA VAN HOUTTEI Best white-flowered hedge. Very graceful and does not run riot. Therefore it is good for informal gardens as well as for formal effects. Medium-sized plants are quoted for hedge planting. RUSSIAN OLIVE (Oleaster) The Russian Olive described on page 12 is the ideal (Eleagnus Angustifolia) plant for tall hedges. Planted singly, it is a small tree, but, planted two to four feet apart in a hedge-row, it makes a dense, branch- ing growth, forming a rounded solid mass of silvery green foliage, ten to twelve feet tall. The growth is very bushy and compact, and makes a uniform, regular hedge. It is also used as a wind-break along with taller-growing trees, as its dense growth fills in the space near the ground, which the taller trees leave open. Tor a wind-break, see page 10. There are many other plants which make attractive hedges, but should not be sheared as heav- ily as the Barberry, Privet, or Japan Quince. The fcllowing al! make graceful decorative hedges: Althea, Deutzia, Lilac, Hydrangea, Syringa, Snowball, Weigela, Rosea, and Snowberry. Also, such Roses as Conrad F. Meyer, the Rugosas, Dorothy Perkins, and the Persian Yellow. Privet. Most widely used for Hedges. Thereis now a hardy form for northern localities. 40 ROSES THE ROSE—“QUEEN OF FLOWERS” These flowers of rarest beauty, in most varied forms, and with the sweetest perfumes, may be had from frost to frost in one glorious succession. The hardy Japanese Rugosas open before the others, then the old-fashioned Persian Yellow, followed by a host of hybrid Perpetuals (H. P.), which make June the ‘Month of Roses.” After the hybrid Perpetuals (which really are not perpetuals) come the hardy new race of hybrid Teas (H. T.), which have the hardiness of the hybrid Perpetuals and the refined, fragrant, and delicate beauty of the Teas. Most won- derful of all, they possess the Teas’ habit of blooming freely and continuously throughout the summer and autumn. Such loveliness repays many times over your care in cultivation and in providing deep, fertile, well-drained beds. They require a sunny, sheltered spot, away from the roots of shade trees which would rob them of much needed fertility. ANNIE MULLER (Pol. H.) Brilliant, shining pink flowers, medium size (twice (Bo1der and bedding Rose) as large as Baby Rambler). ‘The bush is spreading, a larger, stronger grower and more attractive than the Baby Rambler. It is a constant and profuse bloomer all summer long. The old flowers drop off without detracting from the appearance of the bush. It is the ideal ‘“‘Baby”’ Rose for bor- ders and beds. Can be transplanted to a pot in the fall and taken in the house, where it will continue to bloom all winter, a cheery bit of red and green. Prune lightly in late winter or early spring. An improved Baby Rambler—superior in every way. Hardy. CLIMBING AMERICAN Wonderful bright scarlet Rose. The blooms are borne OV AOIONE (Sl 1S) singly and are suitable for cutting. Resembles its American Beauty parent in form and color and its Wichuriana parent in hardiness, vigor, and resistance to diseases. Jarge quantities of bloom, three inches across, are borne in June, and occasional flowers throughout the season. Most beautiful climbing Rose; hardy, stands heat and drouth; foliage does not burn in the sun. Prune in late winter or early spring, cutting out old or weakened canes. COCHET See under Maman Cochet, page 42, and White Cochet, page 43. (The hardiest and best Tea Rose.) Climbing American Beauty Rose. ; A wondertul new climbing Rose. The flowers are large and suitable for cutting. ROSES 41 CONRAD F. MEYER (Hy. Rugosa) (Bedding and shrubbery) Silvery pink, double. Flowers early, con- tinuing throughout the season; very fra- grant. For hedges and the lawn.