HOW TO GROW
ONIONS;

WITH NOTES ON VARIETIES.

KpP BY
TPGREINER, oF New JERSEY,

AND

Cot. C. FH. ARLIE, OF OREGON.

EDITED BY
W. ATLEE BURPEE.
As]

1888.
PUBLISHED BY
W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO., SEED GROWERS,
Nos. 475 AND 477 NORTH FIFTH STREET,
Nos. 476 AND 478 YORK AVENUE,
PHILADELPHIA, PA.

CopyRIGHTED, 1887,
By W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO.

PRESS OF WM. F. FELL & CO.,
1220-24 SANSOM ST., PHILADELPHIA,

Hel: 3 a

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Epitor’s PREFACE, . : : ‘ < : ‘ A - ‘vil
Ontons AND How To Grow THEM, . E ‘ 2 é = ecto
Soil, . . . . e J e e . > 10
Manure, ‘ ; 3 A - ° - : =u AE

Preparation of the Soil, . . ° . : . ° 12
Seed, . : ° : : ° ° . . 3 at ts
Sowing the Seed, . : a . F ° . : 14
Amount of Seed per Acre, . : : . . - See AS

Rolling, . : ; : - * P . ° « 15
Cultivation, = - - F e = : s « 6
Hand Weeding, : : - - : ‘“ ; a At
Injurious Insects, - - e < - « - 18
Thinning, é : é ‘ : : . - 2 19

Harvesting the Crop, . ° : ° 3 - ‘ . 19
Marketing, . : 5 : : : . : FE 20
Wintering, . : : ‘ . . . ° " ‘ae

Varieties, F : : 3 : : A . s 21
Onion CULTURE BY IRRIGATION, . ‘ A 3 F ‘ ee 5;
Kinds of Soil, . ‘ : : : ‘ j ‘ F 24
Varieties, . : : 3 ; : é : : ene
Planting, ; - : : = - : : - 30
Cultivation, é ; : : F ‘ “ : o> oo
Harvesting, . . : : . : ; 2 ; 36
Storing for Winter, . : : : é , ae
The Importance of Good Seed, - : : 3 . 39
General Remarks, 5 F ; : : Dette ee |
Irrigation, : : : ‘ : , : : 7 41

Vil

CONTENTS.

VARIETIES OF ONIONS, . 5 5 5 5 :

American Onions—

Round Yellow Danvers, . 7 5 :
Yellow Globe Danvers, E 2 -
Yellow Strasburg, or Dutch,

Southport Large Yellow Globe,

Large Red Wethersfield, .

Extra Early Red,

Large Red Globe, 5

Large White Globe, or nee White Globe mie
White Silver Skin, or White Portugal,

Hard, Round, Silver Skin, . 4 °

ttalian Onions—

ONION

Eailiest White Queen, : ; - 4
Golden Queen, or Golden Gem, . : ‘
Silver White Etna, or Extra Early Pearl, . °
Pale Red Etna, or Red Pearl, . : - ;
Neapolitan Marzajole,

Giant Rocca, of Naples, .

Giant Red Rocca, : 5 -
Giant Yellow Rocca, or Golden Globe Tripoli,
Giant White Rocca, or Silver Ball,

Giant White Italian Tripoli, :

Red Mammoth Tripoli, or Bermuda Red,
Burpee’s Mammoth Silver King,

Mammoth Pompeii,

Sets, : ; ‘ SS : ; : -
Varieties and Amount of Seed to be Sown,
Manufacture of Storage Crates, :

Cleaning and Sorting, : ; ° . -

PAGE

EDITOR’S PREFACE.

The offer in Burprr’s FARM ANNUAL FoR 1887,
of cash prizes (first prize $25; second prize $15)
for the best essay on How To Grow Onions,
brought forth much interesting competition. There
were received a number of good essays, evidently
written by growers of experience, but of all these
the best two are published in this volume. After re-
peated readings,we were still undecided to whom be-
longed the first prize. Finally, we surmounted the
difficulty by omitting the second prize altogether,
and awarding first prizes (each of like amount,
$20) to both Con. C. H. Artix, of Lakeview, Ore-
gon,and Mr. T. Greiner, of Monmouth County,
New Jersey. We feel quite sure that the reader
will agree with us in this decision. Both writers
have handled the subject very ably, and fortu-
nately each enters more into detail where the other
writes more in general. Both writers are men of
extended experience as Onion Growers, and the
two essays give all needed information upon the

successful growing of this most important crop.
Vil

Vlll EDITOR’S PREFACE.

We have appended an article on the growing of
sets, and also detailed descriptions, with illustra-
tions of the varieties of American and Italian
Onions.

Mr. Greiner, at present Editor of The Orchard
and Garden, was known for many years as a large
grower of Onions in the State of New York, and
his essay will be highly valued by our readers.
And yet were it not for Col. Arlie writing from
the Northwest, our Western readers would miss
much needed advice, while growers in the East
and South can also profit by the record of his ex-
perience. Col. Arlie’s chapter upon irrigation will
be found particularly instructive. |

W. ATLEE BuRPEE.

Philadelphia, December 1st, 1887.

ONIONS

AND

HOW TO GROW THEM.

WITH NOTES ON VARIETIES.

BY T. GREINER, MONMOUTH CO., N. J.

With perhaps the only exceptions of celery and
asparagus, there is no crop of the farm garden
more exacting in its requirements as to food and
attendance, or more remunerative when well
managed, than that of onions from seed. The
territory where this vegetable can be grown suc-
cessfully extends almost over every State in the
Union, and in all localities where the crop meets
with ready sale at prices approaching or exceed-
ing $1.00 per bushel it offers to the skilled grower
one of the best chances to get a relatively large
amount of money from a small piece of land. On
the other hand, when mismanaged, it leaves a
chance for considerable loss. A large crop must

9

10 ONIONS ;

be the grower’s aim, as average crops hardly ever
leave much margin of profit. The efforts should
not be spread over so large an area that the avail-
able working forces might at any time be un-
equal to the task of doing all the work thoroughly
and just at the time when needed. This is the
point where the novice often makes a mistake,
the sure consequence of which is partial or entire
failure and disgust with the business.

Six hundred bushels to the acre is not an un-
usually large crop; eight hundred bushels and
upward are frequently grown by good market
gardeners, and I could tell a still bigger story
from my own experience.

SOIL.

A satisfactory crop can be grown on almost any
soil, provided it be well filled with vegetable
matter (humus), well fertilized, and thoroughly
drained. These requisites are indispensable. For
the North, however, I would prefer soil in which
sand predominates; for the South the heavier,
cooler soil of the river bottoms. Well-drained,
well-subdued muck lands generally offer every
condition of full success everywhere. To avoid
an unnecessary increase of the already large
amount of labor which the crop requires, the soil
should be free from stones, coarse gravel, rubbish,
and especially from foul weeds and weed seeds.
There is nothing to hinder planting the same
piece to onions for many years in succession.

HOW TO GROW THEM. AA

MANURE.

Eighty two-horse loads of the best compost per
acre is not an excessive quantity. Very rich
garden soils, however, which have been heavily
manured year after year for some time previously,
will produce one or two large crops with no other
fertilizer except nitrate of soda, applied in two or
three rations, at the rate of from 600 to 750 pounds
per acre in the aggregate. Most muck lands can
dispense with stable manure, and will raise a
respectable crop with none but “commercial fer-
tilizers.” On such soils a good superphosphate
may be applied at the rate of 1500 or more
pounds per acre, but it is always advisable to
supplement it with potash, best in the form of
unleached wood ashes. If such are used freely,
say at the rate of 100 bushels or more per acre, a
smaller quantity of superphosphate than without
it may be sufficient. The special “onion ma-
nures” advertised by many of our fertilizer
manufacturers contain all the elements of plant
food, and can be used freely and with entire con-
fidence. Near the sea coast onion growers find
one of the best of available manures in seaweed
composted with stable manure. Horse manure
from city stables, which is almost free from litter,
generally gives good results, and so does hen
manure, especially when composted and applied
as a top dressing. For obvious reasons, all
manure used on the onion field should be en-
tirely free from weed seeds. Manure which is in

12 ONIONS ;

the least coarse must be plowed in. If well
decomposed and broken up fine, I would prefer
to have it thoroughly mixed with the surface soil,
by means of cultivator or harrow, or both.

When the bulbs are about half grown the
plant food in the soil generally becomes partly
exhausted. A top dressing of ashes, phosphate or
other manure at this time will help to bring the
crop to perfection, and should not be neglected.

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.

A crop of carrots, parsnips or other close-
planted vegetable fits the ground admirably for
a succeeding crop of onions. Any farmer who
knows how to prepare a field for wheat in the
most thorough manner will find no difficulty in
preparing an onion-seed bed properly. The
ground had best be plowed in the fall, and thus
exposed to the winter’s frosts. At the very ear-
liest date in spring that the land will bear working
(March being preferable to April, and April to
May, even in the colder portions of the United
States) spread the compost. thickly over the field,
and at once either plow again, or (what is gener-
ally the better plan) mix it thoroughly with the
surface soil by means of a suitable cultivator.
Then apply a top dressing of hen manure, wood
ashes, superphosphate, muriate of potash or
whatever there is at hand for the purpose, harrow
thoroughly, roll and harrow again, repeating, if
necessary, until the soil presents a_ perfectly

HOW TO GROW THEM. 13

smooth and even surface, free from lumps. In
some cases, especially when the soil is stony or
encumbered with rubbish, it may be advisable to
apply the “finishing touch” with a garden rake,
leaving stones and rubbish in straight windrows
running in the same direction intended for the
onion rows. On most soils, however, this incon-
venient job can easily be avoided.

SEED.

With onions, more than with any other vege-
table, cauliflower only excepted, the outcome
depends largely on the seed. Good seed alone can
bring a glad harvest. Onion seed should be
strictly fresh, for its germinating powers are
greatly weakened (if not lost) and always un-
reliable the second season.* It should be ob-
tained from a reliable grower or dealer, for there
is always a large stock of poor, worse than worth-
less, seed in the market. Cheapness in onion seed
carries with it a suspicion of inferiority. The
grower can ul afford to run risks for the sake of

* We have found, by repeated tests, that first-class samples of onion
seed, carefully stored in our warehouse, germinate well the second
season and frequently retain their vitality perfectly. All the seed
should be purchased, however, long enough in advance to permit a
personal test by the grower, whether there is doubt in the mind of the
purchaser or not; thus all risk as to vitality is avoided. The germi-
nating qualities depend largely on the weight and plump body of the
seed, as when there has been a poor season for perfecting the seed, we
have found seed a year old to have better germinating qualities than
the new crop.—Eb.

ue

14 ONIONS ;

saving a few dollars when he has hundreds at
stake in his prospective onion crop. By all means
go sure; pay a good price and plant good seed.

SOWING THE SEED.

Just as soon as the ground is in readiness, and
while the surface is yet fresh and moist, the seed
should be sown. This, though quite a simple
operation, requires care. The leading implements
used for the purpose are Matthews’ Garden Drill
and Planet Jr. Seed Sower.* With one of these,
one man can sow an acre of onions per day with
the greatest ease. It is only necessary to set the
drill properly for the kind of seed to be sown, and
to learn how to manage it, paying attention that
the seed continues to run freely. Sometimes the
hopper becomes clogged, or the seed tube filled
up with soil or rubbish, and if not noticed and
remedied, whole rows may be skipped in sowing,
to the great annoyance and loss of the grower.

I myself, and perhaps every expert gardener,
can sow seed by hand in light furrows made with
a hand marker just as regularly as can be done by
means of the drill, which latter, however, is greatly
to be preferred for larger jobs.

Let the rows run the long way of the field.
Mark off the first row or stretch a line. Straight-

* The seed drill should be a drill simply; the combined implements,
with hoeing and weeding attachments, are not only more expensive,
but are also much more liable to get out of order.—Eb.

ld

HOW TO GROW THEM. 15

ness of the rows adds to the attractiveness of the
field and increases the grower’s interest in his
work. The rows should be close (in order to get
the largest crop obtainable), yet not too close
for ease and convenience in cultivation. Sixteen
inches is just about right.

AMOUNT OF SEED PER ACRE.

For soils which are in a perfect state of prepa-
ration, especially if of a moist, mucky character,
three pounds of water-cleaned seed are a sufti-
ciency, but it will be safer for the novice to sow
four pounds. On uplands, especially if somewhat
stony, lumpy or liable to “ bake,” or otherwise not
in first-class order, a still greater amount of seed—
up to six pounds and more—should be used, in
order to avoid risks. I, for my part, however,
would not undertake to raise onions, were I com-
pelled to plant on soil the condition of which
makes the use of six or eight pounds of seed
necessary.

ROLLING.

Running a hand garden roller over every row
after sowing the seed is not strictly necessary, but
advisable, especially when the soil was not in a
perfect state of preparation.* It insures prompt
germination in all cases.

* Too much stress cannot be laid upon the use of the roller in all
seed sowing.—Ep.

16 ONIONS ;

CULTIVATION.

The fight against weeds must commence in
good earnest at the very moment when the plants
appear above ground, so that the rows can be -
seen. A good wheel hoe or hand cultivator is
indispensable in the onion field. I prefer Ruhl-
man’s Wheel Hoe or Gregory’s Finger Weeder;
but Matthews’ Improved Hand Cultivator, Planet
Jr. Hand Hoe or the Gem Hand Wheel Hoe are
all good tools, and either of them will answer the
purpose. It is generally advisable to go twice in
a row at each cultivation, once close to the plants
at the right, the second time close to the plants
at the left. This disposes of all the weeds just
sprouting between the rows and loosens the
surface. The operation may be repeated once a
week all through the season, to advantage; and it
must be done at least often enough to prevent all
weed growth.

lt is to be deplored that the large majority of our
market gardeners as yet stubbornly refuse to substitute
the modern wheel hoe for the old-fashioned hand hoe,
and thus carelessly throw aside the much-needed op-
portunity of reducing their labor account one-half.
The possession of one or more of the modern “ weed
slayers” puts mm our hands the power to banish the
weeds from our gardens and truck patches almost
entirely, and at an inconsiderable cost compared with
what it used to be.*

* This should have the strongest commendation; these implements
not only kill the weeds, but work the soil into a fine, loose tilth, and, by

HOW TO GROW THEM. Py

HAND WEEDING.

The cultivator has left the rows of plants them-
selves untouched, and they now appear as strips
from one to two inches in width. Weed growth
on these must be prevented, requiring often con-
siderable work on hands and knees. Drawing a
steel rake across the row is a satisfactory way of
breaking the crust and disturbing the weeds just
sprouting, for some soils, but not practicable on
all. Considerable hand weeding is required in
every onion field.

I have sometimes employed young boys to do
the weeding ; but it is only in rare cases that we
meet with a bright youngster who does the work
well and expeditiously. Such a one is a treasure,
and should properly be humored, while all other
chaps who slight their job should not be allowed
to remain in the patch. It does not pay cost to
hire unintelligent labor. Good, willing work-
men, who receive fair wages, do the work as
cheaply and very much better than the average heed-
less youngsters.

Each man is to be provided with a good hand
weeder, such as Laing’s or Haseltine’s, or with a
gardener’s trowel or common iron spoon. Down
goes the whole working force on hands and knees,
each man a-straddle of one row, but skipping every
other row for the sake of allowing plenty of room

the admission of air to the roots and undersoil, double the value of the
manure.—EpD.

2

18 ONIONS ;

to work. The soil is now carefully scraped away
from the plants at each side, and remaining weeds
must be removed with the fingers or the edge or
corner of the implement in use. When done, the
row is entirely free from every vestige of weed,
and the crust thoroughly broken up.* On the
“return trips” the skipped rows receive the same
treatment. The hand weeding will have to be
repeated at least once, oftener twice, and in some
cases even more times; certainly, however, as often
as weeds appear among the onions.

INJURIOUS INSECTS.

The onion maggot (larva of onion fly) does
much damage to the onion crop in some localities.
In May or June the fly deposits Its eggs on the
leaves near the surface of the ground. The mag-
gots soon hatch and descend to the base of the

* We would suggest that the amount of hand weeding may
be lessened by each skilled hand being supplied with a good steel hoe,
the blade of which is not more than 14 inches broad and sharpened on
the grindstone twice a day when in use, with which to run over the row
both in weeding and in thinning. The belt of two or three inches left
by the cultivator can thus be reduced to the actual span taken up by
the young plants. The thinning process can also be successfully done
by this narrow implement; thus, while not superseding altogether the
hand weeding it does away with at least three-quarters of the “ hands
and knees”? work. Of course this can only be accomplished by the
skilled and careful laborer. We would also recommend, where the rows
are far enough apart, Lee’s Horse Hoe, designed and patented by a
Philadelphia market gardener for cultivating onions; it has broad hoes,
which are turned at the sides, and which, by a steady hand, can be
worked within one inch of the row without throwing dirt upon the row
of young seedlings.—Ep.

HOW TO GROW THEM. 19

young bulb, where they feed for about two weeks.
The attacked onions turn yellow, and should be
carefully lifted out of the ground, maggots and all,
and destroyed. This will head off the second
brood. The application of air-slacked lime close
to the plants is recommended as a reasonably sure
remedy. So is that of fresh gas lime. |

THINNING,

Onions stand crowding pretty well; but over-
crowding must result in uneven and inferior size
of the bulbs. At the second weeding the plants
had best be thinned to stand about two inches
apart in the row, leaving the strongest plants and
removing the weaker ones.

HARVESTING THE CROP.

In July or August, when the tops have died
down, the crop is ready for harvesting. The bulbs
can be pulled up by hand, leaving them in wind-
rows tocure. The same object can often be accom-
plished much easier and quicker by drawing a
wooden rake across the rows, leaving the product
of three or four rows in a windrow, as mentioned.
The work of “pulling” requires little skill, and
youngsters may be employed to good advantage.

When thus left in windrows for a few days, the
tops dry and generally waste away. The bulbs are
then picked and sorted over, the remnants of tops
twisted or cut off, and the crop sold right out of
the field or stored under shelter.

20 ONIONS}

MARKETING.

Careful sorting and grading is of much less im-
portance in the local markets than in the large
city market. I have had occasion to watch the
commission stands in the cities, and to observe
that the barrel containing bulbs all of an even
size (which makes the lot attractive) will sell more
readily and always at a higher figure than the
barrel holding a mixture of all sizes. Carefully
grading the crop before putting them in barrels
for shipment, is necessary to realize the highest
market price. The work of sorting and grading
pays as well as any other labor in connection
with the business.

WINTERING.

The best advice I could give to the novice-is:
Don’t attempt to winter so perishable an article as
onions! Considerable loss can seldom be avoided
at best. Sell the crop in the fall, as early as prac-
ticable, and thus avoid much loss from shrinkage
and rot. Still, there are various ways of wintering
onions successfully. They can be pitted like
apples, covering somewhat more lightly and leav-
ing a chance for ventilation at the top. Or they
can be spread in a dry loft, piled up a foot or more
high, and at the approach of severe weather covy-
ered with straw, hay or matting. Light freezing
does not hurt them, if they are allowed to thaw
gradually and not handled while frozen; but if
exposed to a temperature lower than 15° above

HOW TO GROW THEM. vAE

zero, they are liable to rot. I have frequently
wintered onions in slitted barrels and in crates
and baskets in the cellar quite successfully.

WHITE GLOBE ONION. EARLY WHITE QUEEN,

VARIETIES.

For the market gardener at the North and in
many localities further South, no varieties of their
respective color combine more good points than
Yellow Danvers (with its various strains), Red Weth-
ersfield and White Globe. All these attain large
size, are very reliable for bottoming, productive
and popular in the markets. White Globe is su-
perlatively handsome, but ought to be cured
under shelter, in order to preserve its clean, white,
attractive appearance.

Other varieties popular with market gardeners
are xtra Early Red, which is quite early, of
medium size, solid and often profitable in cold,
mucky soils at the North; Large Red Globe and

22 ONIONS; HOW TO GROW THEM.

Southport Large Yellow Globe, which resemble
White Globe in almost every feature except color;
Yellow Dutch or Yellow Strasburg, a good keeper
and quite prolific, but undoubtedly inferior to Yel-
low Danvers ; and White Silver Skin or White Portu-
gal, largely used for pickling and for “white sets.”

Among the new Italian onions, we find many
especially adapted for the South. Of them I will
mention the various strains of the Giant Rocca,
the Giant White Tripoli and Red Mammoth Tripoli
or Bermuda Red, all of which are of very large size.
The new Mammoth Silver King and Mammoth Pom-
peti produce the largest bulbs of all varieties now
known. New Queen, on the other hand, is quite
small, but its extreme earliness, its beauty and
keeping qualities render it altogether a desirable
sort for many purposes.

ONION CULTURE

BY

IRRIGATION.

BY COL. C. H. ARLIE, OF OREGON.

In treating this subject I shall relate my ex-
perience and observation, and however this may
differ from the practice of others, I shall still
have the assurance that the methods herein de-
scribed are practical and not theoretical.

The minuteness of detail may seem to the ex-
perienced like going over common ground, but
let the older heads bear in mind that the “A B
C’s” are difficult to the beginner; and the tyro
in onion culture may easily magnify a molehill
of difficulty into a mountain.

It shall be the aim of the writer to give direc-
tions sufficiently plain and full, so that a man
who did not know enough about onions to tell
whether he had to dig down in the ground for
the seed or climb up in the tree and shake them,

23

24 ONION CULTURE

could set about, with some degree of intelligence,
to grow a crop of onions.

1. Kinds of Soil.

2. Preparation of Ground.

3. Varieties.

4, Planting the Seed.

5. Cultivation.

6. Harvesting the Crop.

7. Storing for Winter.

8. The Importance of Good Seed.
9. General Remarks.
10. Irrigation.

KINDS OF SOIL.

It is probable that the onion will succeed under
a, wider range of soils and conditions than is sup-
posed by a great many. I do not lay so much
stress upon the particular kind of soil as upon the
preparation of the ground and the subsequent
treatment of the crop. 7

It is the general experience of onion growers,
however, that a rich, sandy loam is to be preferred.
Too much sand is not desirable, from the fact that
such soil would lack the requisite strength; and
clay or “sticky” land is to be avoided. Onions,
to do their best, require a great deal of nourish-
ment, and they should accordingly be planted on
your richest, strongest-growing soil—provided it
is not naturally wet land. In the extreme West
onions are grown successfully on “Sage-brush ”
land. Nearly all of this is of a sandy nature, not

_ —_

BY IRRIGATION. AB

calculated to withstand drought, but producing
fine crops where irrigated and properly fertilized.
Land that is naturally moist, as, for instance, the
edge of meadows, might grow a crop all right to
start with, but the chances are that they would be
late in maturing and that a large portion of them
would run to “stiff-necks” or scallions. (Please
pronounce this “scallions” and not “scullions,”
as it is frequently called.)

We will now suppose that we are about to plant
a piece of ground that has never been in onions
before. From the smallness of the young plants
and the tediousness of cultivation it will be ap-
parent that it is of the utmost importance to keep
the ground as free from weeds as possible during
the previous year. For this purpose we select an
acre of land that is as nearly level as may be. In
the spring we will seed it to carrots, or parsnips,
or potatoes, and cultivate thoroughly enough to
prevent any weeds from seeding. It is claimed
by some that carrots are the best crop to precede
onions; not only from their going deep into the
ground and mellowing the soil, but also owing to
their beneficial effect on the ensuing crop. Some
recommend corn, but this leaves a large amount
of rubbish to be removed in the way of roots.

When this crop is harvested in the fall, we rake
up and burn or cart off all the litter that can be
gathered with a garden rake. Just before freezing
weather sets in, the land is plowed to a moderate
depth. We now go on to it with a lute (a plank

26 ONION CULTURE

scraper, five or six feet wide, with plow handles,
similar to what is used on a brickyard), and if the
ground is rather uneven we take, in addition, a
common two-horse road scraper. Wherever there
is a bump or an elevation it is cut down and filled
into the nearest hollow. After the roughest of
the work is done in this manner, we lay the
ground off in imaginary beds, say ten or twelve
feet wide, and running lengthwise with a very
slight incline. After passing over it with the
lute, which acts as a leveler and clod crusher, we
can detect swells and hollows that were not notice-
able before. When it is thoroughly leveled, we
next apply well-rotted manure, at the rate of
thirty loads to the acre.* Before applying this
manure, if the ground is not free from lumps
it should be plowed and harrowed until well
“fined.” This may be horse manure or a com-
bination of the various kinds usually found in
barnyard manure, but it should be well rotted,
thoroughly pulverized and free from trash and
lumps that would interfere with the working of
the seed drill. After spreading the manure as
evenly as possible, the ground is again plowed to
an ordinary depth, at the same time following in
the furrow with a “subsoil” plow. This loosens
up the ground to a depth of twelve inches or
more without bringing the under soil to the sur-

* Even double this quantity of manure per acre can be profitably
applied.—Eb.

BY IRRIGATION. a7

face—a thing which is to be avoided in onion
culture. If it were in the spring, the ground
would be harrowed and cross-harrowed thoroughly
with an “Acme” harrow. But on fall plowing
we want the ground as much as possible exposed
to the action of the frost through the winter,
and for this reason it is not harrowed. When
spring comes, the ground is simply harrowed and
worked up with a rake.

VARIETIES.

There are several varieties of onions, the three
distinct types of which are red, white and yellow.
Among the red varieties the two best known and
most generally cultivated are the Red Wethers-
field and the Extra Early Red. The Wethers-
field is a large, coarse-grained onion that is
extensively grown in many sections, and on
congenial soil produces a heavy crop. The
Extra Early Red is smaller and earlier than the
Wethersfield, and a much more reliable “ bot-
tomer.” It is, probably, the surest onion when
the seasons are very short. There is also the
Red Globe, similar to the others in color, but
round in shape; not quite so large as the Weth-
ersfield, but a fine appearing onion, and I believe
a more reliable variety than the latter. These are
al] different types of the same onion, bred up with
some particular end in view.

Of yellow varieties, the most popular are the
Large Yellow Strasburg and Danvers Yellow.

28 ONION CULTURE

(The term silverskin is in some places incorrectly
applied to pale yellow varieties, and in other
localities it means a pure white.) The Strasburg
was formerly cultivated largely, but the Danvers
has superseded it toa great extent. Most of the
white varieties are of foreign introduction and are
not considered so hardy and vigorous as the
others. The best deserving of mention are the
White Globe and Silverskin or White Port-
ugal. The white onions when properly cured
present a handsome appearance for market, but
they have a delicate skin, requiring care in cur-
ing and handling, and their cultivation is con-
fined more particularly to the Southern States and
California.*

The market will determine the choice of variety
to a certain extent, but it 1s safe to say that the
ereat bulk of the onion crop in the United States
is grown from the Danvers Yellow and the Red
Wethersfield. It is claimed that in some markets
‘the Wethersfield is preferred, but for my own part,
if I had to confine myself to one variety, I should
take the Yellow Danvers in preference to any
other. They are a reliable onion to bottom, while
the Wethersfield, on some soils, shows a strong

* We must differ with Col. Arlie on this point, as white onions
are very successfully grown in the Middle and Eastern States. In our
Philadelphia markets they sell the most readily and bring the highest
prices. They are, however, very uncertain seed bearers, and the seed is
always considerably higher in price than the red and yellow varieties.
—Ep.

BY IRRIGATION.

29

30 ONION CULTURE

tendency to scallions. The Danvers is a splendid
winter keeper (given the preference by many
dealers over any other); it presents a finer appear-
ance in the sack than the Wethersfield, and in
nearly all the Western markets it is quoted above
the red varieties.

Of the red varieties, the Extra Early Red is gen-
erally preferred on account of its early maturity.
But, whatever the variety, do not plant cheap
seed. Buy the best that you can get.

PLANTING.

As soon in the spring as the ground is in work-
ing condition seeding begins. Do not be afraid
of getting them in too early. For this purpose I
use a “ Planet Jr.” drill.*

The choice of a drill is perhaps largely a matter
of early training. The two most common drills
in use are Matthews’ and the Planet Jr., both of
which are good machines. I have always used
the Planet Jr., and find it satisfactory in every
way. The ground should be hand-raked to make
it as fine as possible, and as fast as one bed is pre-
pared it should be seeded before allowing time for
the finely fertilized surface to dry out any.

* Nearly all Eastern seedsmen keep on hand or furnish these drills.
“Planet Jr.” or Matthews’ Combined drill cost in the East, $12.00; on
the Pacific Coast, $15.00. These will sow nearly all vegetable seeds
that can be drilled. For onion culture on a large scale there are drills
made expressly for onion seed; dropping and covering two rows at a
time. Such, for instance, as “ Holbrook’s” or “ Hill & Jennings’.”

BY IRRIGATION. ol

Set your drill to cover the seed three-fourths of an
inch deep.* Some will tell you to cover one-fourth
_ of an inch deep, but when they talk that way to
you heed them not. I shall hereafter put mine
in one inch. Put the rows fourteen inches apart
and be careful to get the first row straight, because
all the others will be gauged by it. But whether
straight or crooked, be careful to maintain the
same distance between the rows all the time. The
necessity for this is apparent when you come to

* Tt should be borne in mind that the practice of growers in different
sections varies widely. To illustrate: Mr. W. H. White, of West-
borough, Mass., says: “If the seed is in every respect good, three
pounds are sufficient for an acre; ” while Mr. W. H. Ball, of Springfield,
Mo., says: “TI drill the seed in one foot apart, using six pounds of
seed to theacre,” and then adds: “ We never thin onions.”

And one grower wants them in one-fourth inch deep, while another
insists on putting them down one inch. One reason why many growers
sow them so shallow, perhaps, comes from the old practice of sowing
broadcast, like ruta bagas, Then, again, some claim that, in order to
bottom well, the bulb of the onion should be entirely above ground,
like a turnip.

Iam not sure of this. People in the West, where irrigation is
practiced, get a great many ideas from experience that were not
dreamed of in the Hast. For instance, it might surprise some Hastern
gardeners to see corn and peas plowed in to a depth of six inches ; and
T have seen onion seed put into a furrow that had been made by a
plow to the wheel hoe (and even with a “single-shovel ” plow), and
then covered with a hand hoe. It would seem that the seed in this
case must have been down at least two and possibly three inches.

A drying wind for a short time, or a few days of hot weather, will

easily absorb the moisture to a depth of one-fourth inch, and if the
‘seed are only down that deep, a great many are liable to perish for
want of moisture just as they sprout. Whereas, if they had been down
an inch they could get well rooted before the ground dried to that
depth. JI am done with this “surface” planting.—AUTHOR.

32 ONION CULTURE

cultivate; because your wheel hoe is set to cut a
certain width, and if the rows crowd together in
places, the hoe will cut out the plants wherever the
space narrows down. The roller will probably
press the earth down sufficiently without any
further work. Iam aware that some writers lay
great stress upon “firming the soil;” and it is’
doubtless a good plan where the ground is dry,
but judgment must be used, as, if there is much
moisture in the ground, there is a liability of pack-
ing it too much. *

In one season I put in a crop on the 17th
of April. The ground, after having been hand-
raked, had laid a week, so that the moist-
ure seemed to be all out of it. In addition to
this, the roller attachment to the drill was miss-
ing, so that the soil that covered the seed was
sifted on to it in the loosest possible manner.
Expecting to have to irrigate in order to sprout the
seed, I did not firm the soil in the least. Shortly
after the seeding was finished, the ground was
covered with a coat of snow, and in fourteen days
from time of planting, some of the seed began to
break through. Rolling could not have brought
the seed any quicker. Of course, if the snow had

* Would it not be very injudicious to sow seed when the ground is
too wet and sticky torol/? The drill would not work well in such soil;
wherever the sower stepped it would become packed and hard, as much
as if passed over by the roller. The rolling packs the soil firmly
around the seed on all sides; if left to lie in a hollow space, the seed
would be apt to become too wet and rot off.—Ep.

BY IRRIGATION. 33

not fallen, the seed would not have sprouted. But
without any moisture in the ground, rolling could
not have sprouted them.* Then, again, one
spring I had put in some seed for sets, and think-
ing to retain the moisture in the soil I hoed the
rows while the ground was wet. This, of course,
was wrong, and packed the ground so that not
more than one-third of the seed came.

CULTIVATION.

About fifteen or twenty days after seeding, the
plants will begin to show themselves, and just as
soon as you can trace the rows distinctly, go into
them with the wheel hoes. For this purpose I
use “Planet Jr.” double-wheel hoe and “ Ruhl-
man’s” single-wheel hoe. The single-wheel hoe
runs between the rows, while the double-wheel
straddles them and cuts on both sides. For the
special purpose for which “Ruhlman’s” hoe is
intended, it is superior to the “ Planet Jr.,” but
for the first cultivation and while the plants
are small I prefer the “Planet Jr.” The hoe
blades can be adjusted so as to throw the earth
slightly away from the plants, and thus admit of
very early and close cultivation. Some go through

* We must differ with Col. Arlie here, as in a dry season, “ firming
the soil” certainly increases the chances of the seed germinating suc-
cessfully. Did not the weight of snow serve to lightly firm the soil?
Of course, sowing so wet, if the ground had been gone over witha heavy
roller, it would have become solid and hard. But is it judicious to
plant in such wet ground, though this was an accidental success ?—Epb.

3

3o4 ONION CULTURE

the onions the first time with a scuffle hoe, but I
see no necessity for this, inasmuch as the wheel
hoe can be used without covering or disturbing the
young plants. But, whatever you use, go at it just
as soon as the weeds can be seen. Don’t wait for
the seeds to start. No matter how brave you feel,
‘it is not policy to give weeds any advantage. And
whenever you let them get their heads above
ground, they are gaining just so much advantage
over the misguided agriculturist and the latest
improved machinery.

If there is danger of the weeds starting before
the onions come through, you can mix about one-
tenth turnip or radish seed with the onions at
time of sowing. As these germinate so much
sooner, it will enable you to trace the rows before
the onions can be seen. If radish seeds are
used, be careful to see that they are smaller in
size than the onion, so as not to clog the drill.*

For the first two months the onions should be
cultivated every ten days. When about four
inches high thin them to two inches in the row.t

* Where no leveling attachment is used, or even where it is, it is
frequently possible to go between the rows with the wheel hoe before
the seeds germinate, as the soil between the rows is not disturbed by
the drill, and the weed seeds germinate more quickly than where it has
been stirred by the drill. Of course, there is no occasion for this where
the soil is as free from weed seeds as it should be, nor where the
ground has all been freshly worked immediately before sowing. The
sowing of the other seeds is quite an original suggestion, but would
make trouble if not immediately thinned out.—Eb.

} I believe it is not the general custom in the East to thin onions.

BY IRRIGATION. 35

At the same time go through them on your
hands and knees with a hand weeder and remove
all the weeds in the row that the wheel hoe can-
not reach. For the purpose of thinning, we use
an onion hoe (a long narrow blade with the socket
in the center and a cutting surface on each end.
One end cuts about two and one-half inches; the
reverse end about one and one-half); walking
sidewise, we cut out with the narrow blade of the
hoe most of the plants necessary to be gotten rid
of. Then, when we go through on our hands and
knees to weed them, we thin out the remainder by
hand, using for this purpose “ Noye’s Hand Weed-
er” * (a small diamond-shaped instrument, costing
thirty cents). The plants should not be allowed to
get too large before thinning, as it will disturb
their roots.

But I do not see how the most desirable results can be attained without
thinning. We know that if onions are planted thickly enough their
growth will be checked so as to form sets instead of large onions. Ex-
perience proves that two plants cannot be grown on a space just suffi-
cient to grow one comfortably, without dwarfing the size of each.
Then having ascertained what space is necessary, it is our business to
give each plant room enough to develop itself. Now the first thing to
be desired by the onion grower is a good stand. If, then, we want the
plants to stand two inches apart, it is evident that we cannot do it by
planting the seed that distance. We have to provide against every
contingency of weather, worms, and defective seed, and our only safe-
guard is to sow thickly and then thin down to the required distance. Is
this not as true of the onion as of the watermelon or turnip ?—AUTHOR.”

* We would recommend, as better suited to the purpose, the Excelsior
Hand Weeder, which has five teeth, making a claw in shape of the
fingers of the hand. It leaves the dirt finer and looser than the cutting
edge of the Noye’s Weeder, and the cost is no greater.—Eb.

36 ONION CULTURE

They will probably require four hand weedings,
and the cultivation will extend over a period of
about three months, or as long as the weeds con-
tinue to grow. Some do not like to work among
the onions after they begin to bottom, claiming
that it has a tendency to make them “ blast.” But
it is frequently necessary to remove weeds some
time after they have commenced to bottom.
When the tops of the first onions fall over, then
nothing more is done with them until they are
ready to harvest.

HARVESTING.

When the tops have turned yellow and all dried
up next to the bulb, the onion is ripe. As some
time elapses between the falling of the top and
the complete ripening of the bulb, and as a por-
tion of the crop will be much later than the first,
we let them stand until about time for frost.*
The practice of rolling onions is followed by some,
thinking it necessary to ripen the crop (i. e., roll-
ing a barrel over the rows after they have com-
menced to fall down). Ifthe right kind of seed is
sown and the crop has proper attention, the
onions are going to ripen when the time comes,
just as surely as a melon or a potato. And if
the seed is only fit to grow scallions, why scallions
they will be. I have just about as much faith in

* We would caution the reader against allowing the onions to Jie on
the ground after the tops are well dried, as, if a rain comes, they are
apt to root again. The tops also would be apt to rot and the onions
become musty.—Ep.

BY IRRIGATION. ar

rolling onions as I have in planting them in the
“right moon.” But it is possible that, when a
crop has been put in so late that they have
not time to mature, rolling might hasten their
ripening. Just to what extent, I am not pre-
pared to say.* When the crop has ripened sufli-
ciently, the onions are pulled, after first loosening
under the row with a prong hoe or spading fork;
they are then thrown into windrows, consisting
of three rows of onions, where they lay for one
week. Then they are piled into rounding heaps
of six to ten bushels and allowed to sweat for
ten days. If thoroughly dried they are now
ready for storage, and they can be put into win-
ter quarters immediately, or, by covering with
six or-eight inches of straw to exclude the heat
of the sun and prevent the repeated freezing
and thawing, they can lay here until danger of
freezing weather.

STORING FOR WINTER.

An ordinary cellar is a poor place in which to
keep onions, from the fact that it is too moist and
too warm. If it were perfectly dry, and the tem-
perature could be kept at about 35°, it would
answer finely. An onion will stand any degree
of cold, but will not stand repeated freezing and

* The idea in rolling is to bend over and partly break off the tops,
so as to check the flow of nutrition from the roots into the tops, and
confine it to increasing the size and quick ripening of the bulb.—Eb.

o8 ONION CULTURE

thawing. If they are to be frozen at all, they
must be kept that way until spring. And if not -
allowed to freeze, they should be kept just as near
the freezing point as may be, in order to prevent
their sprouting. And they must have ventilation.

For ordinary purposes, a dry out-building with
perfect ventilation is the most convenient for
storage in large quantities.

Leave the tops on and take them in from the
field in the afternoon when they are perfectly
dry.*

The building in which they are to be stored
should be so arranged that it has a free circu-
lation of air underneath the floor. Arrange bins
in the building from four to six feet in width and
one foot deep, leaving a space of a foot or so next
the outer wall. The first bin should be raised six
inches from the floor, and the bottom of the bin
should be composed of three-inch slats, having
a two-inch space between each one. Now place
good dry straw in the bottom of the bin, sufficient
to make two inches when weighted down, and fill
in with onions until nearly level with the top.
Cover with straw, sufficient to exclude all light
from the onions. Continue next layer of bins on
top of this in same manner, leaving sufficient
space between each layer of bins to admit a free

*The Colonel gives no special reason for leaving the tops on. It
would take up extra room, would make dirt, and is against all canons
of good and neat gardening.—Eb.

BY IRRIGATION. 39

circulation of air. Have windows so constructed
that the sun cannot shine into the room at any
time. After good freezing weather has fairly set
in, select some night when it is cold enough to
freeze the onion solid and throw open the doors
and windows. After this the temperature in the
room should be kept below 32°, and only venti-
late it when the temperature is lower than in the
building.* In this manner the onions may be
kept until warm weather. Let them thaw out
with the covering on and do not handle them
until all frost is out of them.

THE IMPORTANCE OF GOOD SEED.

The value attached to good onion seed by old
growers may be a source of wonder to the inex-
perienced, and it is oftentimes entirely overlooked
by the beginner in the business. Let me try to
explain why cheap onion seed is not cheap. The
onion stalk attains a height of, say, from sixteen
to twenty inches when fully matured. As the
onion develops and begins to ripen, the stalk falls
over and shrivels up at the bulb. This forms
a ripe onion. But a certain percentage of the
onions, although attaining fair size, will remain
large and stiff around the neck, constituting a
“stiff neck” or scallion. The scallion, although
good to eat, will not keep through the winter, and

* This would require keeping them till spring (until the frost is all
out of them), when they would have to be marketed very quickly,
though no doubt they would bring a higher price.—Eb.

~

40 ONION CULTURE

is, consequently, not marketable like a matured
onion. Now, the onion, of all vegetables, is per-
haps the most susceptible of being bred up to a_
high degree. If we should select the seed of
scallions for a few years, we would soon get some-
thing that would grow scallions almost to a cer-
tainty. On the other hand, if we select one of the
earliest and best shaped onions, with a very small
neck (when green), to propagate our seed from,
and continue this selection for years, we will have
a strain of seed in which the scallion is almost
eradicated. Inasmuch as every scallion is like
so much dead stock on the market, it is evident
that the smaller the percentage of scallions the
more valuable the seed to the grower. It is
exactly this feature that makes the seed of the
conscientious careful seedsman valuable; while
the unscrupulous onion grower may sell all his
marketable onions, set out his scallions next
spring, and in the fall have a fine lot of cheap
seed for sale.
GENERAL REMARKS.

In raising onions for market where the growing
season is short, your first consideration will be
the selection of a variety that will be certain to
make itself during the season. The matter of
next importance is the particular variety that is
in greatest demand in your market. If the onion
crop is short and prices high, anything will sell;
but if the market is glutted, you will find dealers
very particular. One grower may be able to

BY IRRIGATION. 4]

work off his entire crop because he has the right
variety, while his neighbor is unable to dispose
of his for just the opposite reason.

In selecting a seed drill and wheel hoe, let me
. strongly urge the advantage of a separate drill
and cultivator, instead of buying the combined
machine. Combined machines of any kind are
not as good as separate ones, and the difference
in cost is not enough to compensate for the extra
convenience and thorough work.

There are onion pests in some localities that
work on the crop more or less, while in other
localities they are practically exempt from such
ravages. The onion maggot is very destructive in
some places, and occasionally the “wire worm”
does considerable damage. The wire worm does
its work while the plants are small, and if they
stand thickly enough the loss may not amount to
much.

I know of no remedy that is practical on a
large scale for any of these pests.

IRRIGATION.

In irrigating, there are two methods of applying
the water, which, as regards theory and practice,
are entirely distinct. One is called flooding, and
the other furrow irrigation. Flooding, as the
name implies, means the complete covering of
the ground by having the beds banked up so as
to confine the water. Furrow irrigation consists
in running the water in a small trench between

42 ONION CULTURE

each row of plants. For flooding, the ground
may be laid off in beds from ten to fifteen or
even twenty feet in width, and about ten rods
long. The size of the beds will be governed,
somewhat, by the water supply. A big head of
water can be got over much wider beds to ad-
vantage than a small stream.

The beds, sidewise, should be perfectly level; and -
it is better to have them level lengthwise as well,
though they may have a slight incline. If the
beds are level lengthwise the ground can be wet
to any desired depth. Water may be turned on
until it stands one inch in depth all over the bed
—which would be equivalent to a rainfall of
perhaps one and a half or two inches—or it may
be turned on to a depth of six inches, according
to the requirements of the case. If the bed has
an incline, the lower end should be left open,
allowing the water to pass off, else that end will
receive a great deal more water and the ground
will probably become packed.

The soil, of course, should have moisture enough
in it at the time of planting to germinate theseed.
This the operator can regulate by late fall irriga-
ting (before plowing).

If the ground contains an abundance of moisture
when the seed is sown, it may not be necessary to
irrigate for a month after the plants are up; but
the proper time to apply the water must be deter-
mined by each individual case. The first applica-
tion of water in the spring should be as light as

BY IRRIGATION. 43

may be, from the fact that the soil at that time is
very loose and absorbs water much more rapidly
than later in the season. As soon after irrigating
as the ground begins to dry (perhaps forty-eight
hours, more or less), and before it has had time to
bake, it is run over with the wheel hoe, just skim-
ming the surface. Then it is followed with the
cultivator teeth. It then lies in this condition
until dry enough to require another irrigating ;
and so on through the season. This leaves the
ground loose and mellow after each irrigating and
thoroughly exposed to the chemical action of the
atmosphere. It is this repeated mellowing and
stirring of the soil that constitutes the charm and
effectiveness of irrigation. The cultivator is not
dependent upon the uncertainties of rain, and in-
telligent labor receives its fullest measure of com-
pensation.

During the heat of the season the crop will
need irrigating once a week and sometimes twice
(depending a great deal upon the character of the
soil). Toward the latter part of the season it will
not be so particular about stirring the soil after
each irrigating. When the first onions begin to
fall down irrigating stops.

For furrow irrigation, the onions are planted on
level ground (just the same as where irrigation is
not practiced). The rows should be laid out so as
to have a fall of from six inches to a foot in every
ten rods. Where the ground is quite sloping, the
firsts row may be laid out with a triangle (a

44 ONION CULTURE

wooden frame in the shape of a letter A, measur-
ing twelve feet from base to base and having a
plumb-bob in the center), with a fall of one half-
inch to every twelve feet. Then every other row
can be run by this. If the fall is less than six
inches to ten rods the water will be too slow in
getting through; on the other hand, if the fall
much exceeds twelve inches the soil will wash
away. This season I had in a few rows where
the fall was about three feet to ten rods; but it
was altogether too much.

Now for the mode of applying the water. The
rows should be about fourteen inches apart. Run
the “ Planet Jr.” cultivator between each row, and
the peculiar shape of the three teeth will leave a
small furrow, at the same time not throwing
enough dirt on either side to interfere with the
plants. Let each one of these ftirrows run a very
small stream of water, just sufficient to keep run-
ning but not large enough to overflow its banks.
This water passes off and must have an outlet,
and is allowed to run in the furrows until it has
soaked the ground to the center of the rows (per-
haps six hours,more or less). After the ground has
sufficiently dried it is cultivated in the same man-
ner as described in “flooding.” These furrows
between the rows can be made with the wheel
plow, or by running the cultivator with the three
teeth, or they can also be made by walking back-
ward and dragging a common hoe with one point
digging the ground in a V shape. As to which

BY IRRIGATION. 45

system is the better, I think it is partly a matter
of taste or early education.

In Southern Colorado the flooding system is
practiced exclusively. I believe the same is also
true of the Mexicans through New Mexico,
Arizona, and the Southwest, who have been
practicing irrigation for generations. In ‘this
immediate vicinity furrow irrigation is generally
followed.

Some prefer the furrow system, claiming that it
does not bake and pack so badly as by flooding.
But ground that is sandy enough for onions will
stand flooding if properly handled. Of course, it
will not do to flood the ground and then allow it
to dry and bake without stirring the soil.

Theoretically, the furrow system may be better,
but for my own part I like flooding. It is quick
work and more evenly regulated. You can turn
on what water you choose, cut it off, and pass on
to the next bed. There is no waste of water, there
is no fertility washed away, and I believe the soil
retains the moisture better. In flooding there is
the disadvantage of having the space between each
bed waste ground and constantly growing a crop
of weeds. In furrow irrigation there is the advan-
tage of using every foot of ground and of being
able to put in the crop without leveling up the
ground so much; while there is the disadvantage
of having so much water run to waste, and a por-
tion of the applied fertility washed away. A trial
of each system on a small scale will best enable

46 ONION CULTURE BY IRRIGATION.

each grower to decide which is best for his indi-
vidual use.* .

This article has been prepared at odd intervals
and during evenings after a hard day’s work, and
in summing up its faults and shortcomings it is
hoped that those who are disposed to be critical
will take into consideration the circumstances
under which it was composed.

* We think the Colonel makes decidedly a good case for the flooding
system of irrigation as advantageous over the furrow system, especially
on the point of utilizing all the land, water and fertilizer. In the
furrow system a large portion of the water runs off, and must, conse-
quently, take some of the best soil in solution, besides the danger of
washing gullies.—Ep.

VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

BY W. ATLEE BURPEE.

As this treatise is intended to be complete with-

out requiring the novice to refer to seed catalogues
for lists of varieties, we supplement the essays with
descriptions and illustrations of the leading varie-
ties of Onions now grown in America. These are
divided into two classes: American Onions and
Italian Onions. As the former are the main re-
hance of the grower for market, we will first
describe the varieties of the

AMERICAN ONIONS.
ROUND YELLOW DANVERS.

Reliability for bottoming and large yield are
both combined in this popular variety. It is
extensively grown for market, and frequently
produces six hundred bushels per acre from seed
sown in thespring. Itis avery handsome, round
onion, of good size, with thin, yellow skin; flesh
white, fine-grained, firm, mild and of excellent
quality. It ripens early, keeps well, and sells
readily. This variety is also largely used for
growing sets.

47

48

VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

YELLOW GLOBE DANVERS ONION.

LARGE RED WETHERSFIELD ONION.

at it i

VARIETIES OF ONIONS. 49

YELLOW GLOBE DANVERS.

Is a selected strain of the preceding, although
not really a distinct variety. The bulbs are thicker
through, but not perfectly globe-shaped, like the
Southport Yellow Globe, which is a later onion to
mature. Altogether, a good strain of seed of this
variety is probably the best for general cultiva-
tion either for market or the home garden—pro-
vided only one sort is grown. It is a splendid
keeper. In England a very similar strain is known
as James’ Keeping Onion.

YELLOW STRASBURG, OR DUTCH.
One of the oldest varieties; bulbs quite flat,
of good size; skin yellow; flesh white; of mild
flavor; keeps well. This is the variety that
formerly was used very extensively for growing
Philadelphia Yellow Onion sets, and while still
good for that purpose, it has of late years been
nearly superseded by the Yellow Danvers. The
skin is rather darker in color than the Danvers.

SOUTHPORT LARGE YELLOW GLOBE.

This is a very handsome onion, quite popular
in the New England States. It is of large size
and perfectly globe-shaped; skin yellow, flesh
white and reasonably fine grained.

LARGE RED WETHERSFIELD.
This rivals the Yellow Danvers in its great
popularity, being a standard market variety in

the Eastern and Middle States. The onions are
4

VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

50

SOUTHPORT YELLOW GLOBE ONION.

LARGE RED GLOBE ONION,

VARIETIES OF ONIONS. 51

of large size, round form, somewhat flattened, but
thick through. Skin deep purplish red; flesh
purplish white, moderately fine grained and of
rather stronger flavor than the yellow onions. If
planted on unsuitable soils it is more inclined to
form thick necks than the Danvers, but when
well grown is a very handsome, salable onion.

EXTRA EARLY RED.

Of flattened form, not so thick through as the
Wethersfield, this variety matures earlier and will
often form bulbs in cold and mucky soils where
other varieties fail. It is highly esteemed in the

Northwest.
LARGE RED GLOBE.

As shown in the illustration, this is a very
handsome variety, and is deserving of general
cultivation. It matures quite early (none of the
perfectly globe-shaped onions are as early as the
flat varieties), grows to a large size; skin deep
red; flesh fine-grained, mild and tender.

LARGE WHITE GLOBE, OR SOUTHPORT WHITE GLOBE ONION.
Of perfect.globe shape; both skin and flesh are
pure white; fine-grained, of mild flavor. This is
an extremely handsome onion, and commands the
highest market price, but requires more careful
handling than the red and yellow onions.

WHITE SILVER SKIN, OR WHITE PORTUGAL.
Very desirable for family use; flavor mild and
pleasant; skin silvery white; of handsome ap-

5a VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

pearance; highly esteemed for pickling when
young, also for market in early winter. This is the
variety of which White Onion Sets are grown, and
is known in New England as Philadelphia White.

HARD, ROUND, SILVER SKIN.

Produces uniformly small, round and hand-
some onions, with an opaque, white skin that
does not turn green by exposure to the sun. The
onions are very compact and hard, but at the
same time crisp and brittle; altogether the best
pickling onion. Although of foreign origin, this
ean be ‘classed as an American Onion, and has
lately become in large demand by pickling estab-
lishments.

ITALIAN ONIONS.

Unlike most foreign varieties of onions, these
Italian varieties bulb well in nearly all sections of
the United States. While it is better for the
novice In onion-growing for market to confine
himself to the American varieties, he should
experiment with these, and every family garden
should be enriched by a few varieties of these
handsome onions. Asa rule, they do not keep well,
but for summer and fall use are very desirable.

For some years past large quantities of Italian
onions have been raised from imported seed by
truckers in the South. The onions command
large prices in the Philadelphia and New York
markets, where they sell as Bermuda and Spanish
onions.

VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

WHITE SILVER SKIN, OR WHITE PORTUGAL.

HARD, ROUND, SILVER SKIN ONION.

53

54 VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

The Italian onions grow rapidly, and, except
the Small Queen, form fine, large bulbs, weighing
from one to one and a half pounds each, the first
year from seed, while several of the varieties even
exceed these weights. They are all much milder
in flavor than our American onions.

EARLIEST WHITE QUEEN.

The bulbs are small, flat, pure white, and of
excellent flavor, but the principal recommenda-
tion is the marvelous rapidity of its growth. Sown
in February, they will produce onions one or two
inches in diameter early in summer. Sown in
July, they will be ready to pull late in autumn,
and will keep sound for many months, retaining their
most exquisite flavor. One of the very best onions
for pickling, making fine, hard, brittle pickles, of
attractive appearance.

GOLDEN QUEEN OR GOLDEN GEM.
This is identically the same as White Queen,
except in color of skin.

SILVER WHITE ETNA, OR EXTRA EARLY PEARL.

A very fine variety that grows quickly to a
good marketable size; very popular, particularly
in the South. The bulbs are round, flattened,
with a delicate, pure white skin; flesh very mild
and pleasant in flavor. It is claimed to excel
most other onions of Italian origin in keeping
qualities.

VARIETIES OF ONIONS. 5d

ZY

GIANT WHITE ROCCA, OR SILVER BALL ONION.

56 VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

PALE RED ETNA, OR RED PEARL.
This differs from the preceding chiefly in color
of the skin, which is a light red.

NEAPOLITAN MARZAJOLE.

A large, beautiful, silvery-white-skinned variety,

of handsome, flat shape, and of very fine quality.

Sown in February or March, it will produce a

splendid crop early in the season. Seed sown in
July will mature a crop the same season.

SILVER WHITE ETNA ONION.

GIANT ROCCA, OF NAPLES.

Of very mild, delicate flavor, immense size,
handsome, globular shape, and light, reddish-
brown skin. It is an excellent keeping onion,
valuable alike for autumn and spring sowing.
In this immediate vicinity Giant Rocca onions
have been grown to weigh 1} to 1? pounds

VARIETIES OF ONIONS. Be

each, from seed sown in the spring. However, if
the largest possible size is desired, the smallest
bulbs should be set out in the spring of the

GIANT ROCCA ONION.

second season, when they will continue to in-
crease in size, instead of producing seed, as is
the case with American onions.

58

VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

MAMMOTH POMPEII ONION.

VARIETIES OF ONIONS. 59

GIANT RED ROCCA.

This is very similar to the above, but has been
selected with a view to a deeper red color of the
skin. |

GIANT YELLOW ROCCA, OR GOLDEN GLOBE TRIPOLI.
A very handsome onion, of immense size, with
light yellow skin.

GIANT WHITE ROCCA, OR SILVER BALL.

This might be described as a mammoth White
Globe Onion, although the bulbs are not so uniform
in shape as our American White Globe.

GIANT WHITE ITALIAN TRIPOLI.

A very large, round, flat, white onion, sometimes

called Hl Paso, or Large Mexican. It readily grows

to weigh 1% pounds from the black seed the first
season.

RED MAMMOTH TRIPOLI, OR BERMUDA RED.
Similar in shape and size to the Giant White
Tripoh. Skin thin and of a rich blood-red color ;
flesh white, fine-grained, mild and pleasant; of
large growth.

BURPEE’S MAMMOTH SILVER KING.

The Mammoth Silver King Onion, named and
introduced by us in 1884, grows to a most remark-
able size—larger than any other variety in cultivation,
excepting only the New Mammoth Pompeii. The
bulbs are of attractive form, flattened, but thick
through. The average diameter of the onions is

60 VARIETIES OF ONIONS.

>. NZ
AY, ys SS
is —

GIANT YELLOW ROCCA ONION,

RED MAMMOTH TRIPOLI ONION.

VARIETIES OF ONIONS. 61

from 5 to 74 inches—thus making the circumfer-
ence from 15 to 22 inches. Single bulbs often
attain weights of from 2} to 4 pounds each, the
first year from seed. The skin is a_ beautiful
silvery white; the flesh is snowy white, and of
particularly mild and pleasant flavor. So sweet
and tender is the flesh that it can be eaten raw,
like an apple. The Silver King matures early
and is uniformly of large size and perfect form.

MAMMOTH POMPEII.
This is another new Italian onion, of colossal
proportions, having obtained the weight of over
four pounds the first year from seed. Of round,
flattened form but thick through, with reddish-
brown skin and white flesh, of very mild flavor.

2 fe vA

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ONION SETS.
HOW TO GROW AND STORE THEM.

While it does not pay to raise onion sets for the
purpose of growing onions, as they can be raised
somuch more cheaply directly from the black seed,
yet, raised as a crop to be sold for the use of small
gardeners, they are quite profitable if well man-
aged. The same directions given in the preceding
essays apply equally to growing the crop of sets, in
the selection of the situation and quality of the
soil. It is not, however, necessary to manure the
ground so heavily for young sets—as quantity,
not size,is the result to be obtained. The sets
should average only about one half-inch in diam-
eter. It is even more important in growing sets
that the land be free from the seeds of all noxious
weeds than in the crop of onions, as they stand so
~ much morethickly upon the ground thatitis almost
impossible to pull grass or other tenacious weeds
from among them without pulling the young
bulbs also. If much weeding has to be done, it
also greatly increases the expense, and conse-

63

64 ONION SETS;

quently lessens the profit. The amount of labor
and manure it takes to grow a crop of sets must
be carefully considered in relation to the profits.
With the expense for the large quantity of seed
required the margin for profit is very small, unless
the crop raised be a large one, and hence care and
constant watchfulness should be exercised to make
it profitable with the least expenditure of labor.
In no case is the time-honored maxim “that a
stitch in time saves nine” more applicable than
in killing the weeds the instant they appear, or
to prevent their appearance by frequent cultiva-
tion. -

In growing sets on new ground (that is, ground
that has not previously been planted in onions)
they are more easily handled in following on
ground that has been planted in some root crop,
such as turnips or beets, as these leave the ground
clean from weeds and litter and in a fine, friable
condition. Where long, coarse manure is to be
applied, it should be put on the fall previous and
plowed well under, cross plowing in the spring
to bring it up and have it mix thoroughly in the
surface soil. If compost or commercial fertilizers
are to be used, plow the ground in the fall and
cross plow in the spring; then, assoon as the plow-
ing is done, apply the fertilizer, harrow and culti-
vate the soil into the finest possible condition. If
this cannot be accomplished with the cultivator
and plow, then the plot must be gone over with a
sharp steel rake where each row is to stand. A

HOW TO GROW AND STORE THEM. 65

better way, where the rows are to be planted
closely, is to rake in windrows every six feet and
then gather up and remove all the stones, sticks,
etc., gathered by the rakes.

Where the crop is to be worked with wheel hoes
the rows may be sowed as closely as fourteen inches
apart, but we prefer to sow in broad drills, two to
three inches wide and two and a half to three feet
apart, or as closely as it is possible to cultivate
them without throwing dirt upon the young sets.
The cultivator used for this purpose should have
the teeth plates narrow, not over one and a half
inches in breadth, so as to work the soil up loose
and fine and not throw up ridges of dirt to smother
the young sets; the narrower the blade of the cul-
tivator hoe is, the nearer is it safe to work, thus
diminishing the hand labor to be performed. In
laying out the rows for sowing, a marker should
be used, so as to get them at perfectly equal dis-
tances apart, teeth being set in a piece of scantling
for this purpose, at the proper distances apart for
the rows, and a handle attached to pull it by.
The first row is marked with the outside tooth
against the line, afterward it tracks in the last
row marked out. Where the seed is to be sown
by hand, as is most frequently done, the teeth
should be an inch and one-half or more in width
and blunt pointed; then, if the head piece or
scantling is heavily weighted, it will make the
drills all ready for sowing. Wherea drill or sower

is used, the marker should have small, sharp teeth,
5

66 ONION SETS;

and be drawn lightly over the soil, just making a
guide for the drill to follow. For sowing the seed
by hand we would recommend the use of a small tin
box, such as a baking-powder can, the diameter
of which is the same as the width of the drill to
be planted. The bottom of this is perforated with
holes slightly larger than the diameter of the
onion seed, but not large enough to allow two
seeds to pass through the same hole at once. By
filling this and lightly shaking it along the drill,
it will sow very quickly and evenly. When
the end of the row is reached, the sower, on his
knees, travels back along the row, carefully cover-
ing in the fine soil with both hands; the depth is,
of course, regulated in working the drills, and
should vary from a scant half-inch in the heavy
soils to a fullinch in the lightest loam. The rows
should be firmed with a light hand roller when
planted.

While it is not so important to get the crop in
at the very earliest time possible, we would recom-
mend plowing the whole plot at one time, but
only preparing for sowing so much of the plot as
can be sown in one day to prevent drying out.

VARIETIES AND AMOUNT OF SEED TO BE SOWN.
Only four varieties of onions are generally used
for growing sets,ynamely: Extra EARty Rep, YEL-
Low DutcH or STRASBURG, YELLOW DANVERS and
WuiteEe PortuGAt or SILVER SKIN, the two latter
being mainly grown. The Rep WETHERSFIELD,

HOW TO GROW AND STORE THEM. 67

which is much grown for bulbs, is too strong grow-
ing to form marketable sets; besides, it so easily
matures onions from the seed that there would be
no object in raising and keeping over the sets, not
to speak of the danger of its running to seed if
treated in this manner. This applies also to the
Italian varieties, which produce onions of im-
mense size from seed.

For the purpose of raising sets, we would re-
commend the sowing of not less than fifty to sixty
pounds of seed to the acre; and if the exact size of
the plot is not known, would suggest that a piece
of ground two hundred and eight feet on each side
contains one acre. This can be quickly estimated
by counting the panels of the fence, which, ordi-
narily, are ten feet in length.

In cultivating and weeding, the same directions
given in the Essays apply, excepting that the sets
are not thinned. They should stand so thickly
in the row as to touch each other when ripe,
but not so thickly as to cause them to become
misshapen.

When the sets have attained their growth and
begin to ripen off, the maturing can be facilitated
by rolling an empty barrel over the rows, mash-
ing the green tops. This checks the flow of sap to
the tops and tends to hasten the ripening.

In gathering the sets loosen them with a sharp
steel rake, getting the teeth well under the bulbs,
and rake lightly into windrows, rolling them over
and over as much as possible to cleanse from any

68 ONION SETS;

adhering soil. If it is a dry time, they should be
left in the windrows (not over two inches in
depth) to sweat for a few days. Then gather
up and spread them two inches thick on the floor
of a cool loft or barn, or stack them in crates, as
hereafter described.

MANUFACTURE OF STORAGE CRATES.

Crates can be made very cheaply, last a great
many years if carefully handled, and will more
than repay the cost of material and construction
in a single season. They admit of storing large’
quantities of sets in the smallest possible space,
and allow the air to circulate freely through all
parts of the stack. The materials used in their
construction are roofing lath one by two and
a half inches, and plastering lath, which come
four feet in length, one inch wide and half an
inch thick. Of the roofing lath, make a square
frame measuring four feet from outside to out-
side one way and six feet the other way. This is
nailed together the flat way of the stuff, the width
of the pieces making the sides of the crate; a
brace of the same stuff is nailed in the middle to
further stiffen this frame; in a six-foot crate this
should be the long way of the crate, so as to
relieve the strain on the bottom. Nail all the
corners as solidly as possible with ten-penny
nails. Then laying this frame on the floor, cover
one side of it with the plastering lath to form a
bottom. Nail these on firmly with four-penny

HOW TO GROW AND STORE THEM. 69

nails to the sides and to the center brace, leaving
a space of about half an inch between the laths;
this is readily done by standing a lath up on edge
close against the one just nailed and then nailing
the next against the one on edge, which can then
be pulled out, leaving the proper space for venti-
lation. The sets are placed in these crates to the
depth of two inches, and the crates are then piled
one above another to the height of the room,
pieces of the roofing lath being laid on each crate
as it is put up, to make a two-inch air passage
between the layer of sets in the one just stacked
and the slatted bottom of the one above. The
bottom crate should be raised at least four inches
above the floor, not only to insure a good circu-
lation of air, but also to allow the cats free passage
to every part of the floor in pursuit of mice. We
have been thus particular in the description of
these crates, as the storing and wintering of the
sets are matters of equal importance with the
growing of them. Unless these details are care-
fully attended to, the grower may suffer the loss
of the whole crop stored; either from rotting,
if a free circulation of air is not kept up, or
from sprouting, if kept too warm. The loft or
storage room should have ventilators or win-
dows at each end, and should have constant care
to keep them well aired and the temperature as
dry and cool as possible, just so that they do not
freeze. In a large loft where they are kept over
winter there should be stoves to maintain a low

70 ONION SETS;

fire on nights when there is great danger of freez-
ing, but where these are used the crates should
not be stacked within several feet of them, or the
nearest ones will sprout and become worthless.
Even when the fires are lighted, air must be
admitted and the temperature kept as near the
freezing point as possible. The necessity for firing
can be largely done away with by fitting win-
dows, ventilators and all cracks with strips of
listing. We would also recommend these in-
structions for storing and wintering the sets to
the attention of the onion grower, as we believe it
to be the best and surest manner of wintering the
onion crop.

It has also the great advantage over other
methods of enabling the grower to market or ship
all or any part of his crop at a moment’s notice,
thus being able to take advantage of any scarcity
or rise in the market. Where the crates are not
at hand, the sets may be wintered by leaving
them in piles six to twelve inches deep on the
floor, and covering them with successive layers of
hay as the weather goes down below the freezing
point; but, though we have known this to be suc-
cessfully done, it requires a great deal of judg-
ment, and we would advise all who have not the
crates and storage facilities to sell their crop to the
large dealers who make a business of handling
them as soon as they are cleaned and sorted. Even
if the price realized is not so large, “the bird in
the hand is much safer than the two in the bush.”

HOW TO GROW AND STORE THEM. rat

CLEANING AND SORTING.

This is to be done the first opportunity after
they are thoroughly dried, but if they are to
be carried through the winter, we would leave
them in the crates till winter, when the hands
can be profitably employed in this work without
interfering with other farm work, one crate being
emptied by each pair of hands, and, as cleaned,
sorted into another. The cleaning is done by
rubbing them around and pulling off with the
fingers all tops and roots that do not separate
from the bulbs when they are gently rubbed
against each other and the slatted bottom of the
crate. The sorting is quickly performed by run-
ning them through a grain fan sieve, or other
sieve having meshes three-quarters of an inch
in diameter. Those which will not pass through
are too large for sets, grade as pickling onions,
and can be sold to pickle factories.

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* Me /:

JUST PUBLISHED, 1888! A New Book on Gardening:
HOW AND WHAT

to Grow in a Kitchen Garden
OF ONE ACRE.

By E. D. DARLINGTON anp L. M. MOLL.
EDITED BY W. ATLEE BURPEE.

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L. I., well known as one of the most successful and largest
growers of Cauliflower and Cabbage in America, and by Mr. J.
PEDERSEN (BJERGAARD), of Denmark, a well-known writer
and grower. To these is added an appendix that will interest
our lady friends, giving, as it does, the recipes for cooking these
vegetables, furnished for this book by Mr. 8. J. SoYER, Chief
Cook to His Majesty, the King of Denmark. The book treats
fully on :—

How to succeed with CABBAGES—tThe Best Soils—The Cabbage a
Greedy Feeder—Manures—Planting and Cultivation— Tnsects—Early Cabbages—

Late Cabbages—Cutting and Marketing.

CAULIFLOWER —Selection of Land—Making Seed Bed and Sowing
Seed—Cultivation—The Earliest Forcing of Caulifiowers—Cauliflowers in the
Open Ground—For the Family Garden—Enemies of the Cauliflower—Varieties
—Tying and Bleaching —Cutting—Trimming—Packing for Market—How to
Keep for Winter Use—Numerous Recipes for Cooking Cabbage and Cauliflower.

Few, if any, crops that can be grown on the farm yield larger
returns than Cabbage and Cauliflower, and with this ‘‘ How
to Grow ’’ Treatise success is reasonably assured.

To be had of Houses handling Agricultural Books, or will be
sent, postpaid, by mail, upon receipt of price by the Publishers,

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO.,
PHILADELPHIA, PA., AND LONDON, ENGLAND.

Be Es ta PRICE 30 CENTS.

| HOW TO GROW |

|

ONIONS;

WITH NOTES ON VARIETIES. |

5 re
or, BY

T. GREINER, or NEw JERSEY,
AND

Bee Cou. C. H. ARLIE, or Orzcon.

EDITED BY
W. ATLEE BURPEE.

1888.

PUBLISHED BY
W. ATLEE BURPEE & CU., SEED GROWERS,
| 2 Nos. 475 AND 477 NoRTH FIFTH STREET,
i Nos. 476 AnD 478 YORK AVENUE,
PHILADELPHIA, PA.

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