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HOW TO MAKE A
BULB-GARDEN

THE COUNTRYSIDE PRESS

BOOK PUBLISHERS

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Tulips

HOW TO MAKE A
BULB-GARDEN

ILLUSTRATED AND WITH
PLANTING TABLES

HARRISBURG, PA.
THE COUNTRYSIDE PRESS

1915

Copyricut, 1909, 1910, 1912, 1913, By
THE SUBURBAN PRESS

CopyriGut, 1915, By
THE COUNTRYSIDE PRESS

vA
OcLA416442

Nov 18 1915
Le ee

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE
INTRODUCTION . . Be Ve RR es aes + Slee 9
Goop NAMED BuLBs BOG. ote. kPa ae EA as
SNe ts eae MEN D3 et cet ROTH tserna ne Shes aque ne
NATURALIZING BULBS Ra aes Sh) be MC ee a eee amen ae 1
Pe AERA ut aka Ma ORR A A cs bear ee
SRT CTR Aetna Re
Sai Mie Peper COANIN AR: ona ee Na ee ee ba oa. eagle ae
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DIN cs kee ER ee ee tei ies ke aR
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Fae VERRTDVUTER: co oe ae ee SORE Sees: Cauca te) ahr
hue PuAGRAN? CUBEROSH. (2 00s neat ere ee oe eo ee
Mie LURETEAIIC S IGAR . 2 2lr hr Rnes eee ioe tics oie ee
TIGRIDIAS . . Pee ALT UAE Ry SA a pee LES SAL?
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POLYANTHUS NARCISSI BCL ea ouan eS g e pe o BePae St
HyYAcINTHS .. . Soci Mente aero. NETL Se Seg AS as ID
LILIES TO THE Front ERENT TEAR eR 2a 2c, 2) aA SO
ARMIN TEATS SGN AcoLELEGN oo > LORS COR Wap ee ws ee
rn OOD LAERIES So ee er a ae dene eae a) SOD.
Sere ee Naa ae? LEA WS) Lo oA eer ee ail Odes be OO.
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Me SORE TAT: AU LEAGARDENG 1 staal anor ce, Vobg ere oO
Neco RUNTUR: BULB 1 cori Clee ee on ace Hele
Same ar SOOO) UALETINES <5) ae yor, Co care 4 Od
es hats Ee alee 1 ee ttn KH eae oe ery Sen
ere Ae APE Ge ier, eeegeeee Cove Leh eh wok 64

rea as) cig ot aes MOREE RO eo 66-73

INTRODUCTION

HERE have been compiled, within the covers
2) of this little book, the essential things which
the amateur should know in connection with
obtaining the best results from the planting of bulbs.
Much of this material has appeared previously in
Suburban Life, but the condensed form in which it
is now published will render it still more valuable,
“as all but the essential facts have been eliminated.
Both spring-flowering and summer-blooming
bulbs are included, and plain, concise directions
given for their treatment—directions which are
easily followed by one even without any previous
experience in gardening.

This little book is made possible by the permission
of The Suburban Press, and is offered to the garden-
lover in the hope it may prove a valuable handbook
on the subject of bulb-planting. _

THE PUBLISHERS.

(9)

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

IRST in all the garden list for the roaming

American suburbanite stand the hardy bulbs—

the ‘‘Dutch bulbs,” as they are often called
because so many of them are produced in Holland.
They- are hardy and lusty, prompt and ready,
incomparably showy, and not expensive. Does the
new lease-holder in a suburb, or even one in a city,
who has a bit of garden, want to have something for
immediate effect?—something to make his garden
pretty and home-like the very first spring? The
final reply to all his questions is tulips. Or at most
it is tulips and crocuses and narcissi and a few other
Dutch bulbs.

The bulbous plants—tulip, hyacinth, narcissus,
crocus, snowdrop, etc.,—produce the earliest showy
flowers outdoors in the spring, and October is the
month in which to prepare for this floral display.
There are many ways that they can be used with
telling effect, such as borders to walks, long, narrow
beds around the house next to the foundation, beds
in the lawn, as clumps in the hardy border or at
the front of plantations of shrubbery, or, in the case
of the daffodils or narcissi, snowdrops, crocuses and
similar bulbs, for naturalizing in the lawn or open
woodland.

(11)

12 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

GOOD NAMED BULBS

To insure that the display will be good, buy the
best bulbs that can be secured, and buy named
varieties. Mixed lots of many kinds may be bought,
but they have the distinct disadvantage of present-
ing, when in bloom, a heterogeneous mass of colors
which is not wanted, particularly in the case where
they are used for bedding purposes. Another draw-
back to mixed lots is that they will not all bloom at
the same time. When named varieties are bought,
the exact shades of colors wanted for any particu-
lar bed can be selected, in varieties that will bloom
at the same time. These can be picked from any of
the bulb merchants’ catalogues, for most of them
indicate the comparative blooming date of each
variety.

It is important that some attention be given this
detail, otherwise disappointment is sure to follow
next spring, when the flowers are in bloom.

One spring I walked over the grounds of a large
public institution that had extensive bulb-plantings,
and to which no attention had been paid as to
the flowering season of the varieties in each bed.
There were beds of hyacinths in which part were in
full bloom, while in the balance of the bed the flower-
spikes had just come through the ground. When the
second lot was in full bloom, the first to bloom had
turned brown and were exceedingly unsightly,—a
condition that could have been avoided by a little
careful selection on the part of the gardener.

Dutch hyacinths in a set bed

14 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

If you have taken pains to get varieties that
bloom at the same time, you may be disappointed
in their not blooming at the same time, if careless
planting methods are adopted. In order that the_
bulbs will bloom at the same time, they must all
be planted at the same depth.

WHERE TO PLANT

All of the spring-flowering bulbs may be planted
in almost any situation about the grounds, even
though it be quite shaded, and they will bloom; but
for the most of them a sunny situation is to be pre-
ferred. The daffodils, on the other hand, prefer a
partially shaded situation,—not too dense a shade,
the force of the rays of the sun need only be broken.
Ideal locations for naturalizing the daffodils are in
orchards, along the banks of ponds and streams, and
among the shrubbery, while the crocus and snow-
drop find a congenial place in the lawn.

Almost any soil that is rich will produce good
spikes of flowers from good bulbs. You must buy
good bulbs to get good spikes, for the number of
flowers is entirely controlled by the culture they
received in the bulb-gardens. The tulips and hya-
cinths prefer a well-drained and slightly sandy soil,
while the daffodils and other narcissi succeed better
in a rather heavy soil.

Many of the bulb catalogues have a little dia-
gram that tells at a glance at what depth to plant
the different kinds of bulbs. Detailed information

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 15

about this can also be secured from the planting
table in the back part of this book.

That the bulbs may make the best possible
growth, the soil should be rich; but if manure must
be added just previous to planting, as will be neces-
sary if the beds have contained flowering plants
during the summer, spade the manure in deep enough
so that it will not come in contact with the bulbs.

Crocuses in the grass

16 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

The best way to make a bulb-bed, especially where
manure must be added, is to dig it out an inch deeper
than the required depth of planting. Spade in the
manure, stirring the soil to the depth of about four-
teen inches below the original surface of the soil, level-
ing it off carefully; or, if the surface of the bed when
completed is to be crowned, crown this surface and
spread half an inch of sand over it. Then set the
bulbs where they are to grow, and cover them with
the soil taken out. The manure is mixed with the
soil under the sand, but that which is on top does
not contain any.

A quicker method is that of making holes with:
a dibble; but, if this is done, there is always an
eee ae, of not getting them all at the same
depth, and care must be taken that the bulb is not
“hung” in the hole; that is, the hole gets too deep and
there is a space below the base of the bulb. To avoid
this, fill the bottom of the hole with sand, or fine soil,
and press the bulb into it to the required depth.

A long, narrow trowel is better than a dibble, but
be sure of getting the holes all dug the same depth.
The best plan is to dig all the holes before planting
any of the bulbs.

NATURALIZING BULBS

By ‘“‘naturalizing”’ bulbs is meant the planting of
them in out-of-the-way places, where the grass is
not mowed closely, amongst the shrubs and peren-
nials, where they will not be disturbed, and where

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 17

they can continue to grow and bloom year after
year just as if Nature had placed them there, or in
clumps about the lawn. In this way they virtually
become ‘‘wild”’ flowers, and, like other wild flowers,
repeat their message of joy each spring.

For naturalizing bulbs, planting with a dibble
is necessary, for only one bulb is planted at a time.

Poet’s narcissus along a stream-bank

18 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

The best way to distribute bulbs.in a sod is to take
several in the hand and throw them at the locality
where they are wanted, giving them a whirling
motion as they leave the hand; this will prevent the
bulbs from being planted in straight lines or geo-
metrical forms, if each is planted where it falls.

The narcissi and daffodils are the best of the
larger-flowering bulbs for naturalizing, and they
cost from one dollar a hundred up, according to
the variety bought. The cheapest form is one of
the varieties of the poet’s narcissus, Recurvis. It
costs only about one dollar a hundred, and Ornatus,
another good variety, can be had for a dollar and a
half. Many kinds may be secured for two to three
dollars a hundred. Emperor is one of the best,
costing, in lots of a hundred or more, only about
three cents apiece, and Empress is another excellent
one for the same price.

EARLY BLOOMERS

In our desire for those flowers which, by their size -
and color, make the garden brilliant in early spring,
we are apt to overlook the smaller kinds, which really
bring to us the first indication that Nature is awak-
ing from her winter sleep.

Among these is the snowdrop, with its dainty
bells of pure white, which sometimes can be found
peeping through a light covering of snow. This is
a delightful flower for edgimg the beds of the larger
bulbs, and, with the charming blue and white bells

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 19

of the chionodoxa, or glory-of-the-snow, makes a
most happy combination.

The crocus, too, is a flower which should be
grown in all bulb-gardens, and can be used with
good effect in solid beds, mixed with other bulbs, or
naturalized in the lawn. For this use, turn up 4
small piece of sod with a trowel and place the bulbs
under it. They will bloom and be out of the way
when it is time to use the lawn mower.

Tulips and hyacinths are the best of the bulbous _
plants for bedding, and, of the two, the tulip has
always been the more satisfactory.

Unnamed hyacinths, mixed as to varieties, but
all of one color, may be had for five or six dollars a
hundred, but the best bedding hyacinths, named so
that you know
just what the
shade of blue, pink
or other color is,
can be purchased
for six to eight or
nine dollars a
hundred. These
are to be preferred,
as better color
combinations can
be made with
them.

For a bed about
7 feet long and 7 Abe
36 feet wide, The dainty snowdrop

20 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

ninety-eight hyacinths will be needed. An oval
bed 11 x 8 will need about three hundred bulbs.

The first tulips to come into bloom are the Duc
Van Thols, followed by the common bedding tulips,
and the season is finished by the Cottage Garden and
Darwin tulips.

A circular bed of tulips, 6 feet in diameter, will
need about three hundred bulbs, if planted 4 inches
apart; a bed 6 feet square will need 375 bulbs. Of
the common bedding tulips, I prefer Keizerkroon, a
tulip of medium height, 15 to 18 inches, with a large,
erimson-scarlet flower edged with yellow. They cost
only about two and one-half dollars a hundred, and
they make a beautiful display.

SPRING BEGINNINGS

The main plantings of Dutch bulbs are made in
October or November, but as it is always easier to
begin gardening in the spring season, we will adopt
that order for the present book. There are a number
of bulbous plants which may be planted at any time
in May after the danger of frosts has passed, and
which will give satisfactory returns as bedding plants
or in the way of cut-flowers. The bulbs are cheap;
they may be lifted in the fall, and stored over winter
and planted out the following summer, and there
will be more bulbs to plant the second year because
of the natural increase.

The most commonly used bulbous plant for
summer decoration is the canna, which is easily

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 21

grown, produces good mass effects, even when not in
flower, and is inexpensive. Bulbs already started
or field-grown roots,—clumps of bulbs just as they
were dug up in the fall—may be bought from the

EE tuion :

florists or seedsmen. Started bulbs will give quicker
effects than the field-grown roots, but the latter are
cheaper. When buying these field-grown roots, it is

necessary to divide them, being careful that each
bulb has a piece of the woody stem which contains

22 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

buds; otherwise the roots will not produce new
plants.
THE CHEERFUL CANNAS

There is a wide choice among cannas; they may
be had at varying heights, from 114 to 6 feet, and

The modern cactus dahlia

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 23

they will bear a profusicn of red or yellow flowers.
The orchid-flowered canna has very large and beau-
tifully shaped blossoms, the petals being unusually
broad.

The foliage of the canna also differs; while ordi-
-narily green, there are varieties with deep bronze-
colored leaves.

Next to the canna, the dahlia is, perhaps, the
most popular of the bulbous plants which may be
planted in the spring; it is not, however, nearly so
good as a bedding plant. It may be used in the bor-
der, among shrubbery, or planted out by itself in
the back garden to produce cut-flowers, and the
latter use is really the best to which the dahlia can
be put, for, after it once commences flowering in
summer, it usually continues until frost kills the
tops. There is a wide range of color among dahlia
flowers, from white to dark red. There is also great
variety. in shapes; there is the single dahlia,which
looks like a large, broad-leaved, colored daisy having
very broad florets, the cactus dahlia, and the show
dahha, the latter having the appearance of a big,
fluted ball. ,

OLD-FASHIONED DAHLIAS

One may buy young plants, but this is really
unnecessary, as In the eastern United States early-
started dahlias seldom give the same returns to the
grower as late-started bulbs, for the dahlia will not
bloom successfully in the excessively hot summer
weather to which localities from New York south-

24 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

The formal show dahlia

ward are subject. North of New York, the dahlia
will flower much better during the summer. Bulbs
set in the ground any time in May after all danger
of frost is past, however, will give satisfaction in
most localities. In the hotter climates, they should
not be planted until about the first of June.
Recently there has been an entirely new race of

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 25

dahlias produced by crossing the common kind with
a newly discovered Mexican species. The flowers of
this new race of dahlias are produced on much
longer stems than the ordinary dahlia, which makes
it very desirable as cut-flowers, for one does not have
to cut off flower-buds in order to get long stems, as

rc a

LE eS

Collarette dahlia—an odd variety

26 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

is the case with the dahlias with which we are
familiar. This new dahlia is particularly desirable
because its large crop of: flowers is produced before
the fall frosts arrive.

THE GLADIOLI

The third important bulb for planting in May is
the gladiolus, which is more hardy than the canna
or the dahlia, so it may be planted even when there

eae A

How new. bulbs are formed

is still danger of a few frosts. On account of the
stiff character of the gladiolus, it does not make a
good bedding plant, unless there is an edging of
some low-growing plant.

The bulbs should be planted 2 inches deep and
4 to 5 inches apart, and if to be used for bedding

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 27

purposes the rows should be a little farther apart,
say 10 inches, so that in two or three weeks another
planting may be made between the original rows.
This will insure a succession of bloom up to the time

The stately gladiolus

the frosts come. There is a wide diversity of color
in the flowers, and the gladiolus increases rapidly.
Each year, upon digging up the bulbs, a lot of bulb-
lets will be found around the base of the plant, some
only one-quarter of an inch in diameter. If all of
them are removed in the spring and planted in
rows in the garden, they will make plants which will

28 ' HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

flower the following year. They are very easily
removed, it only being necessary to rub them off
with the finger.

GOOD GLAD GLADIOLI

Rightly named is the gladiolus, as it makes us
glad almost the whole year. Are we not glad from
the time when the eagerly looked-for package arrives
from the florist’s, and we almost reverently lift the
fresh, plump bulbs from their wrappings, and specu-
late upon their possibilities? The variety and un-
rivaled brilliancy of their colors, together with the
ease with which they may be grown, and the variety
of conditions under which they thrive, are reasons
why these bulbs should be grown in every garden.
We are glad again when the light green points
begin breaking through the soil, because we know
that every bulb planted will be sure to yield one
or more lovely flower-spikes.

It is doubtful if any flower can be grown in our
gardens that will give greater satisfaction than a
bed of gladioli. It seems no exaggeration to say
that, for real refined beauty and general usefulness,
they stand unrivaled among the many lovely summer-
blooming bulbs.

My collection was started with one handed
bulbs—Groff’s mixed hybrids. Every season, I add
a few of some named variety. Sometimes I buy only
one or two of the newer amd more expensive sorts.
These new ones are always planted by themselves,

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 29

so that they may receive a little extra care, and give
me an opportunity to become thoroughly acquainted
with their characteristics. If I am much pleased
with them, the bulbs are carefully lifted in the fall
and stored during the winter in dry sand, to prevent
the buiblets, which form on the old bulb, drying out.
By keeping up my experiments in a way I always
have the best.

HOW TO PLANT

In the spring, these little bulbs are planted about
an inch deep in a box of light, rich soil, and placed
out where they get the morning sun. If the bulblets
are peeled, they will come up in a few days. Before
I knew this little secret, I planted them with their
jackets on. But few came up, and those only after
weeks of waiting. Of course, they did not amount to
much, and for several years the little offsets were
thrown away. Now I save the bulblets from my
choice varieties, as I find they will come up in about
ten days, and make blooming-size bulbs for the next
season, some of them over an inch in diameter

One season, I tried two bulbs of the new ruffled
type of gladiolus, Glory. It is, indeed, a lovely flower.
The bulbs gave four large, strong stalks, with broadly
expanded flowers of a light peachy tint or pinkish
white, with ruffled edges which add much to their
beauty. When lifted, I found that each bulb had
produced two fully as large agai as the ones planted,
with dozens of bulblets.

30 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

FAVORITE VARIETIES

Another charming one is Mrs. Francis King, an
unusually vigorous, strong-growing sort. The flowers
are nearly 5 inches in diameter, a mingling of dazzling
scarlet and crimson. They Pee a wonderful display
in the garden, as so many flowers are open at: one
time. They are also very brilliant under artificial
light. The only reason this bulb is so cheap is because
it multiplies rapidly, the flower being fully as hand-

Flower-spikes of the Gladiolus in the border

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 31

some as, and more showy than, Princeps, which
seldom has more than two flowers open at one time,
and which, with me, has never increased.

America and Blue Jay are two very beautiful
varieties. America, a bright pink, is too well known
to need any description. Blue Jay is usually con-
ceded to be the best of the blues. Personally, I am
very partial to all of the pansy-colored sorts. They
are not so frequently seen as the older varieties, and
are sure to attract attention. They appear to best
advantage in a vase by themselves, or with only
white or yellow colors.

Canary-Bird, Klondyke, Eldorado, and Sulphur
King are all good yellows. Snowbank and Augusta
are among the cheapest, as well as the best, of the
whites. Augusta has a medium-sized flower of pure
white, with blue anthers. The stalk is tall and
straight, with usually two branches. This sort in-
creases rapidly. If you like a bold, striking flower,
you should plant Mephistopheles. This combination
of scarlet, black and yellow is sure to attract atten-
tion.

The gladiolus has been separated into classes
according to color, and may be bought in shades of
white and light, striped and variegated, pink and
rose, red and scarlet, yellow and orange, and blue
hybrids. A good way to obtain a fine collection is
to buy twenty-five of each class, which may be
obtained at the hundred rates. Considerable taste
and endless study are required, however, to make
these color schemes succeed.

32 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

PROPER SOILS

The gladiolus may be planted in any soil that
will grow good vegetables, but prefers a moist loam,
in full sunshine. The bulbs should be set from 4 to
6 inches deep, according to the soil. Shallow-
planted bulbs will need some support, which should
be given early. I grow most of mine in the vegetable
garden for cutting. The bulbs are planted 5 inches
deep in double rows, 6 inches apart in the row, but
15 inches is allowed between the double rows. As
soon as they are up, cultivation begins and is kept
up all summer.

I find one planting, the latter part of May, to be
all that is necessary. Almost before we know it, the
flower-stalk appears, and all summer and fall great
quantities of flowers may be cut, equally useful as a
table or parlor decoration, or a bride’s bouquet.
Combined with ferns, the gladiolus forms a beautiful
offering for the casket or grave of a loved one.

The bulbs should be left in the ground until
danger of frost appears, when they should be care-
fully lifted (not pulled up) and spread in a warm,
dry place for a few days, after which the stalk is cut
off about 2 inches from the bulbs. They are then
placed in baskets, and hung from the ceiling in the
cellar. There is never any question about their
keeping.

The gladiolus bulb blossoms but once, and, while
producing the foliage and flora! spike, another or new
bulb develops on top of the old one from which it

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 33

must be detached. At
the same time numer-
ous tiny bulblets are
formed, the replanting
of which matures them
the second year. Surely,
a flower so easy to grow,
so reasonable in price,
so decorative, and so
much admired, should
be grown by everyone
who has a foot of land.

THE FRAGRANT
TUBEROSE

The most fragrant
bulbous flower
grown in the gar-
oo den is the tube-
~~ rose. The odor
“ss is so powerful
that some people object
to it; but a few plants
grown in a corner of
the garden will lend a
charm that can be im-
parted in no other way.
There are two kinds, tall
and short, the tall kinds
Tuberose have stems 2 feet or

34 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

over, while the dwarf variety seldom grows over
18 inches high. Bulbs planted late in May will
produce flowers in August. There is, however, a
somewhat earlier-blooming variety, Albino, which
flowers during July. It is single, and the odor is not
so powerful, a fact which recommends it to those
who object to the stronger odor of the common
kind.

THE ELEPHANT’S EAR

One plant which often creates much rivalry
among neighbors, who try to see who can grow
the biggest leaf, is the elephant’s ear (caladium).
Bulbs of this plant may be purchased and planted
out just as soon as all danger of frost is passed, and,
if the soil is moist and rich, large leaves of deep
green will be produced. It is impossible to give the
elephant’s ear too much food. Mulch the soil about
it with 4 or 5 inches of well-decayed manure; if
the summer is dry give the soil frequent soakings.

TIGRIDIAS

The showiest of all the bulbous plants which one
may plant out-of-doors in the spring is the shell
flower (tigridia). It has flowers 2 or more inches
across, yellow, orange, or purplish, that are variously
spotted. The tigridia blooms in July and August.
Pavonia is a common species, but it has many va-
rieties. It needs the same treatment exactly as the
gladiolus,

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 35

Showy tigridias

FALL-PLANTED BULBS

After all, the main show of spring bulbs is pro-
vided for by fall planting. These are the tulips,
narcissi, hyacinths, etc. Most of the leading dealers
issue special autumn catalogues for these goods, and
every garden-owner will surely want to see that
seductive literature. |

36 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

One of the most difficult things for the beginner
to decide is just what kind of bulbs to get. Some-
times the pocketbook is limited, or the space for
planting is small; in either case, it is difficult to
know what to buy, in order to obtain the best results
from the money expended, and the space of ground
at the disposal of the planter.

It is also difficult to advise the planter without
knowing all the circumstances. Some who have a
dollar to spend would like to buy everything. They
look through the catalogues at the great variety of
good things offered and become confused, and
finally end by buying a dozen or fifteen different
varieties with their dollar. This is a mistake. A
person who has only one dollar to spend ought to
buy a very few varieties, but as many of each variety
as possible. When bought by the dozen, an average
of about thirty bulbs can be had for the above
sum of money; whereas, if single bulbs are purchased
the average number would be only fifteen for the
same amount.

TULIPS FOR DISPLAY

One tulip in the garden will attract attention,
but only because it contrasts with the other objects
around it, and it looks too much like a lone sentinel
to be effective. One dozen will attract attention
because of their own exquisite beauty; while one
hundred will make a man wake up and take notice,
unless he is indifferent to the grander sights of
earth. The number of varieties may be added to

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 37
from year to year, and, when properly taken care of,

the natural increase will, in a few years, make a large
and magnificent display.

oe

*

A group of Keizerkroon tulips

Formal bedding is the fashionable way of planting
tulips and hyacinths today, although to the writer’s
mind there is nothing more delightfully pleasant to
the senses than the careless mingling of the various
colors which belong to these flowers. A bed of mixed

38 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

tulips, with their scarlet, vermilion and gold, orange,
rose and white, or the kaleidoscopic blending of rose,
cream, crimson, azure, carmine, and indigo of the -
hyacinth, is a sight to be remembered forever. But
fashion will have its way, and, as it dictates the
formal bed, the question presented for our con-
sideration is: What varieties are best suited for this
purpose?
FORMAL BEDS

The first essentials for formal bedding are uni-
form height and time of blooming. In the tulips,
the Due Van Thols are the earliest to bloom and,
except the scarlet, which is a week or so earlier, all
bloom at the same period, and are all of uniform
height. They come in crimson, rose, yellow, white,
and red with a gold stripe. Any of these colors may
be selected, but they are much shorter than, and
the bloom is not nearly so large as, some of the me-
dium-early sorts. If I were asked to name the best
three red, yellow, and white bedding tulips, I would
say, in the single varieties—Artus, La Reine, and
Chrysolora. Most catalogues describe Artus as a
bright scarlet; but it is a medium dark red, at least
that has been the writer’s experience with it. It
grows about 10 inches high, and has considerable
demand as a cut-flower.

La Reine is not a pure white, but is slightly
shaded rose, which frequently enables it to pass
where a pink flower is desired. But the shading is
so slight that, when bedded with Artus, it will pass

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 39

for a pure white except on closer examination. In
size of flower and length of stem it is the same as
Artus. Chrysolora is a beautiful golden yellow. It
is an inch or so shorter than the other two varieties,
which makes it desirable for the outer rows. In the
doubles, Rex Rubrorum, La Candeur, and Couronne

Tulips for foundation planting

40 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

d’Or present strong claims to the distinction of
being the best three double bedding tulips.

In the red, white, and blue of the hyacinth I
would say, General Pelissier, crimson; Baron Van
Thuyll, white, and King of the Blues, make a trio
which is hard to beat. When grown in good soil,
the spikes are large, round, and full, and make a
fine showing. These are all single hyacinths, which
are preferable to the double varieties.

SOME GOOD VARIETIES

Where tulips are grown in solid colors, either for
the display they make in the garden or for cut-flower
purposes, there are many varieties to select from.
There are Thomas Moore, orange-color and scented;
Picotee, with petals gracefully recurved; Golden
Crown, medium tall, with yellow petals edged red;
Paris Yellow, late, tall, and handsome; Paris White,
the last of the white tulips to bloom; White Swan,
medium early, tall, and graceful as its namesake,
and fine for cut-flower purposes. Of course, indi-
vidual tastes differ; but very few, if any, will be
disappointed in the above, which are worthy a
place in any collection.

The Darwin tulips are among the late bloomers,
and are, in the writer’s opinion, the finest tulips of
all. Coming as they do when other flowers are scarce,
their long stems and large, cup-shaped flowers and
good keeping qualities make them very desirable as
cut-flowers. Usually they are of solid color, although

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 41

a few sorts are slightly shaded. They are suitable
for any location and, when planted in clumps of
eight or a dozen among shrubbery, they light up the
somber surroundings with a flame of glory that puts
to sharflie the descriptive powers of the English
vocabulary.

ODD VARIETIES

Immediately after the Darwins come the By-
bloems and Bizarres. These are not admired by
everybody, but they are, nevertheless, good tulips.
The Bizarres have a yellow background, blotched,
striped, and penciled in every conceivable manner

good tulip-be

42 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

with shades of brown, red, and crimson, giving the
petals the appearance of beautiful feathers. They
grow tall and stately, and as cut-flowers they keep
well. They are among the latest tulips to bloom,
and for this reason are most desirable, as they help
to bridge the gap between the early spring flowers
and the herbaceous perennials and annuals. By-
bloems are similar to the Bizarres, except in the
contrasting colors. The background of these is
white and the markings are various shades of red
and purple.

DEPTHS TO PLANT

Tulip and narcissus bulbs should be planted 4
inches deep and from 4 to 6 inches apart. Smaller
bulbs, such as the snowdrop, crocus, etc., 2 inches
deep and 3 or 4 inches apart; hyacinths, 5 inches
deep and 6 inches apart; while the larger bulbs, such
as Lilium candidum, should be planted 6 to 8 inches
deep and a foot apart.

These bulbs do not require to be taken up and
reset every year. Every second or third year is
often enough; but they should not be allowed to go
more than three years, as they would then become
too crowded. When dividing, the larger bulbs may
be selected for the more prominent parts of the
garden, and the small bulbs planted in some out-of-
the-way place, where they will get sunshine and rain
until they have reached blooming size. A _ small
nursery where these bulbs can be developed is very
desirable.

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 43

TIME TO PLANT

Now let us review and tabulate the whole col-
lection, with special reference to the planting time.
This little inventory will enable us to see at a
glance what a wealth of material we have to draw
upon, and at the same time will give us a good idea
of the month in which they should be planted, and
whether they are hardy or tender. Here is the list:

WHEN TO PLANT THE BULBS

May
Canna Gladiolus Tigridia
Dahlia Caladium Tuberose

August

Freesia, Lilium candidum* nue
Oxalis L. longiflorum and varieties

. September
Anemone coronaria Chinese Sacred Lily Oxalis

Brodiza Grape Hyacinth* Ranunculus
Calla Hyacinth* Snowdrop*
Calochortus* Lachenalia Squill*
Crocus* Narcissus* Tulip*
Crown Imperial*

October
Tris* Ixia Nerine

November
Astilbe* Lilium species*
Amaryllis Lily-of-the-Valley*

Gladiolus
*Hardy

44 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

SELECT LISTS

The amateur will always be confused by the
long lists of varieties in the catalogues, each one
described as the perfection of beauty. For all begin-
ners, therefore, a brief list of approved sorts is very
desirable, though everyone should experiment for
himself and should add some new varieties to his
collection annually.

EXHIBITION HYACINTHS
Red and pink:

Fabiola. Pink, striped with crimson; good; large spike.
Gigantea. Extra-large spike; pale rose.

Moreno. The best pale pink.

Norma. One of the best. Uniform rose, with large spike.

Robert Steiger and Roi des Belges. Very similar. Deep
red and both good.

Blue or lavender:

Czar Peter. Pale blue; one of the very best of its color.

King of the Blues. The best dark blue; large spike and
bells.

La Peyrouse and Pieneman. Very much alike. Pale blue;
enormous spikes.

Queen of the Blues. Pale blue; large and one of the favor-
ites.

White:

Baroness Van Thuyll. White, with pale yellow center;
reliable and good.

Grandeur a Merveille. The best blush-white.

La Grandesse. Pure white; one of the largest and most
reliable.

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 45

Yellow:

ete of the Yellows. The largest spike and bells of this
color.

Yellow Hammer. The best golden yellow.

The double hyacinths, while fairly pretty if the
best bulbs can be secured, are so far inferior to the

A border of hyacinths

single varieties as not to merit a place in a general
list.

The single early tulips are larger than the Duc
Van Thol varieties, and several weeks later. They
combine well with the earliest varieties of large
trumpet narcissi, as they blossom at about the

46 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

same time. The same caution as regards growing in
shade after the blossom appears applies to these, as
well as to the Duc Van Thol varieties. The number
of named varieties of single early tulips is legion.
Unfortunately, while good for outdoor culture, many
of the finest will not bear forcing. The following list
are all reliable forcers, and are generally acknowl-
edged to be the best of their respective colors.

SINGLE EARLY TULIPS

Cottage Maid. Pink-and-white.

Couleur Cardinal. Deep crimson.
Duchess of Parma. Red, edged yellow.
Goldfinch. Yellow.

Keizerkroon. Scarlet, edged yellow; large.
La Reine (Queen Victoria). White, flushed with rose.
Le Matelas. Silvery pink.

Pottebakker Scarlet. Bright scarlet.
Pottebakker White. White.

Prince of Austria. Orange-red.
Proserpine. Carmine-pink.

Queen of the Netherlands. Deep pink.
Vermilion Brilliant. Bright red.

Yellow Prince. Yellow; sweet-scented.

The double tulips follow the single ones in time
of blooming, and form a charming class by them-
selves. The flowers are most of them very sweet-
scented, remain in good condition for a long time,
and, while not forcing so easily as the single varieties,
yet, if the right tulips are selected, are well within the
scope of the amateur.

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 47

DOUBLE TULIPS

Boule de Neige. White.

Crown of Gold. Deep yellow.

Murillo. White, shaded pink.

Rex Rubrorum. Red.

Tournesol Pink. Pink.

Tournesol Scarlet. Red, edged yellow.
Tournesol Yellow. Orange-yellow.

LATE TULIPS

The late tulip should never be omitted from any
garden. The early varieties seem to have a strange
preference in the amateur’s mind, but the late ones
are far superior. They are the finest of all the Dutch
bulbs. Some of the best varieties in this list are:

La Reve. Soft rose, shading to apricot at the base; large,
globe-shaped flowers.

La Merveille. Magnificent flowers of great size; salmon-
rose, shaded orange-red; fragrant.

May Blossom. Pure white, beautifully striped with aiahit
rose.

Miss Willmott. Flowers very large, beautifully shaped and
of soft creamy yellow; very fragrant.

Mrs. Moon. Fine late yellow; petals beautifully reflexed.

Picotee (Maiden’s Blush). White, penciled and margined
with bright cerise, becoming deep pink all over as it matures;
lasts long; lovely form.

Retroflexa. Deep yellow; large; petals long, tapering and
gracefully recurved.

Scarlet Emperor. Glowing scarlet, with yellow center.

Shandon Bells (Isabella). Bright rose, flaked with white.

Tubergeniana. Bright orange-scarlet, with black center;
very large.

48 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

DARWIN TULIPS

But for pure joy and unabated glory the Darwin
tulips surpass all others. They have good colors,
but they are to be admired most of all for their
graceful, stately forms. Some good named varieties
are the following:

Ariadne. Fiery scarlet.
Bronze Queen. Light yellow; extra large.

Clara Butt. Exquisite shade of soft salmon-pink; a large
flower of remarkable beauty.

Flambeau. Brilliant scarlet, with blue center.
Glow. Crimson-scarlet, center blue, margined white.

Gretchen. Large, globular flower of soft blush-pink; very
beautiful. One of the very finest.

King Harold. Dark blood-red, shaded maroon.

Kate Greenaway. White, flushed with lilac; very large;
late.

La Candeur. Large, globular, white flower, slightly tinged
with blush; anthers black.

La Tulipe Noire (The Black Tulip). The darkest of all
Tulips; very large.

Loveliness. An exquisite shade of satiny rose-pink.

“Madam Krelage. Dark rose, shading to light pink at edges.

May Queen. Delicate rosy pink; large and beautiful.

Old Gold (Yellow Perfection). Golden yellow, overlaid
with bronze.

Painted Lady. Soft milky white flowers on purple stems.
Pride of Haarlem. Bright rose, suffused with purple.
Rev. H. Ewbank. Vivid heliotrope, shaded with lilac.
Salmon King. Rich, glowing salmon, with white base.
The Sultan. Glossy black-maroon.

Velvet King. Shining purple; enormous flower.

Zulu. Glossy blue-black; large flower.

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 49

Other types of tulips not to be overlooked are
the Bizarres, the Bybloems, and the Parrots. The
Bizarres and Bybloems are large, late varieties,
suitable for the border or
general garden; the Parrots
are earlier and _ showier,
though less dignified.
All are well worth
having.

NARCISSI

Merging with the
tulips as regards blos-
soming come the large
trumpet narcissi,
which are the best of all
narcissi for display.
The smaller varieties
can be forced, and in
a large collection of
bulbs might be included;
but, for the ordinary
grower who wishes the lar-
gest display for the smallest
outlay of money, the follow-
ing will be found by far the = cfige

‘ mpress narcissi, one of
most satisfactory: the best sorts

Emperor. Very large; pure yellow; one of the finest.

Empress. Yellow trumpet, white perianth; very large and
extra fine.

Princeps. Pale primrose-yellow; the earliest of all.

50 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

Rugilobus. Golden yellow, with primrose trumpet; very
large flower.

Spurius. Golden yellow throughout. |

These above, while comprising not a tenth part
of the many varieties now listed, have the merit of
cheapness as well as reliability.

JON QUILS

The pretty, fragrant jonquils are hardy and
willing, and may well be included in any garden
collection.

POLYANTHUS NARCISSI

Early Double Roman. Very fragrant; needs staking, and
the flowers are not particularly handsome.

Grand Monarque. White, with pale primrose cup; flower
extra large; later than the other varieties.

Grand Soleil d’Or. Pure sceft yellow, with deep orange
cup; stem rather weak and needs staking, but flower very
satisfactory; fragrant.

Paper White. The best of all bulbs for water culture;
always sure to bloom.

HYACINTHS

Big, buxom, showy hyacinths appeal to’ every
eye, especially the unprejudiced eye of the child.
The best Dutch hyacinths have only one real draw-
back—they are a wee bit expensive. Still, there are
many men and women who insist on having them.
Comparatively speaking, they are better for forcing
than for outdoor planting. Standard single varieties
are:

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 51

Baroness Van Thuyll. White, with primrose eye; large.
Enchantress. Pale porcelain-blue; large.

General Vetter. Blush-white; large spike.

Gertrude. Good, bright pink; large; good form.

Grand Maitre. Sky-blue.

King of the Blues. Dark blue; large.

L’'Innocence. Pure white; immense bells and spike.
Rosea maxima. Delicate rose; fine form.

There are also several very excellent double
varieties in different colors. But perhaps the smaller
and more delicate Roman hyacinths are even more
admired. Good varieties in this class are the fol-
lowing:

Early White Roman. The earliest, as well as the most satis-

factory of this class; pure white blossoms. Each bulb pro-
duces several spikes.

Light Blue Early Roman. Flowers scanty, but of a beauti-
ful shade of lavender-blue; make a handsome bunch, but do
nat give a satisfactory display when growing.

Pink Early Roman. Flowers scantier on spike than the
white; so pale a pink as to be nearly white; not very satis-
factory.

White Parisian. Blossom about two weeks later than the
Early White Roman, and are good as a succession. Flowers
white, feathery and beautiful, turning to blush as the flowers
begin to fade.

LILIES TO THE FRONT

The aristocrats of the garden are the lilies. They
are so aristocratic that many persons suppose them
unapproachable, undemocratic. Yet what could be
more common and democratic than the good old
tiger lily? The fact is that several good kinds of
lilies can be grown in almost any garden.

52 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

A flower-loving friend of mine has a bed of the
choicest lilies where only the aristocrats among this
charming family are allowed. Many other flowers
she has in her garden—sometimes we envy her the
great beds of peonies and roses; but when we view
the splendors of her lily-bed, envy is lost in admi-
ration.

One fall, seventy-five bulbs of the Speciosum
variety were procured, to add to the attractiveness
of her bed. The bulbs came late, arriving the twenty-
fourth of December, but a place for each bulb had
been prepared and marked with a stake, and a heavy
mulch had kept the ground from freezing. So, on
Christmas day, seventy-one bulbs were planted
in the rich loam of the lily-bed. The other four were
sent to two friends who had never seriously ‘‘con-
sidered the lily.” I think that, when the crisp,
pearly white blooms of Lilium speciosum album and
the dainty pink L. speciosum rubrum unfurled their
fragrant petals, there were at least two converts to
the charms of the lily.

THE MADONNA LILY

The reliable old Liliwm candidum, also called
Annunciation, St. Joseph’s, and Madonna Lily, is
the general favorite. These bulbs may be had in
August, and should be planted at once—the earlier
the better. They will not bloom the following season
unless planted early enough to make their growth of
leaves in the fall.

The Madonna lily

54 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

This is one of the sweetest lilies in existence; its
beautiful, snow-white blossoms are the emblem of
purity, the world over. It is the lily loved of poet and
painter. It is said to be one of the oldest, and is
supposed to have been brought to this country by
the Pilgrim Fathers, who loved and cherished it even
as we do. It blooms in June with the roses and del-
phinium,—almost too much charm for one short
month. But by having a good number of varieties
we may enjoy the lily’s bloom every month from
May to November.

The L. auratum is considered one of the finest and
most gorgeous of the lily family. It comes to us from
the mountains of Japan, and is called the Golden-
rayed Japanese Lily. The flower-stalks are usually
about 3 feet in height, although they have been
known to grow 6 feet high. The blossoms are from
6 to 12 inches in diameter; each petal has a band of
golden yellow through its center, and is thickly
spotted with carmine. The flowers of this lily vary
in color and markings. In some, the spots will be
large and of a deep red; in others, they are small and
indistinct; but all variations are lovely. The flower
lasts a long time before fading. Its odor is very
powerful, too much so for the house, but is delightful
in the garden. This bulb requires deep planting and
a light soil. Unless the conditions are very favorable
L. auratum will be very likely to deteriorate in our
gardens, entirely disappearing in from three to five
years; but the bulbs are inexpensive and it pays to
grow them.

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 55

OTHER GOOD LILIES

The funnel-shaped L. elegans is in the class that
does well in almost any situation, sun or shade, and
is not at all particular as to soil. The cup-shaped
blossoms, on stems about 3 feet high, appear in June
and July. They range in color from lemon to red.
This lily requires absolutely no care, and is showy
enough to satisfy anyone.

L. Hansoni is one of the earliest bloomers, its
waxy lemon-colored flowers, spotted with crimson,
appearing in May.

L. Philadelphicum blooms in midsummer. The
showy red flowers shade to lemon in the center, and
they are of upright rather than drooping habit. It
is a native of several of the eastern states, but grows
most abundantly in New York. The small bulb is
not set so deeply in the soil as most lilies. I have
found it growing only 3 or 4 inches under light leaf-
mold. It takes kindly to cultivation. L. speciosum
is the most daintily colored of any of the family.
The beautifully spotted waxy petals are curved,
displaying the prominent anthers. L. speciosum
album is pure white, and the petals have a soft
fringe, which adds to its beauty. The whole fragrant
flower has a frosted appearance. L. rubrum is shaped
like the above, but the flower has an exquisite
shading of carmine, and is thickly spotted with the
same color. L. Melpomene is the brightest colored
of this class. All the speciosum lilies are perfectly
hardy and very free-flowering.

56 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

SOME “NEAR” LILIES

My friend’s bed of lilies is bordered with funkia,
or white day lily. Although these and the hemero-
eallis are not lilies at all, in any proper popular or-
scientific use of language, they are so beautiful that
they should be included in every collection of lies.
There is the Grandiflora variety, with broad, veined
leaves. The white, fragrant flowers are at their best
in the evening, and should be planted in a bed near
the porch, where they may be enjoyed during the
summer twilight hours. The funkias love shade and
a moist soil.

Another day lily not allowed in this bed of ex-
quisite beauty is Hemerocallis fulva. While there is
nothing dainty about this old, tawny orange flower, °
and it is not considered worthy of a place even in
the back yard in a well-regulated border, it needs
only the right setting to convince anyone that it is
showy, and sometimes very beautiful. I never real-
ized this until I saw them growing on the side of a
roadway on the shores of Lake Champlain. The
bank sloped to the water’s edge, and was covered
with the orange blossoms of this day lily. Mingling
and growing among the low bushes and so-called
roadside weeds, they were positively lovely. How
did they come to be roadside tramps? Were they
thrown from some garden, and made a home for
themselves on this sunny slope; or did someone with
imagination have dreams of the effect which might
be created with this common flower? I cannot say.

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 57

The fact remains that they form a picture, once
seen not soon forgotten. |

If Hemerocallis fulva is considered coarse and
unlovely, there is never any question about the
beauty of her dainty little sister, H. flava, or lemon
day lily, which is so profuse with its richly colored

A fine border of hemerocallis

58 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

bloom of delicious fragrance. We love to cut their
long stems for house decoration, and every bud will
develop into a perfect blossom. Furthermore, they
make superb garden borders.

CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS

The first and most important thing in the cul-
tivation of the lily is good drainage; for nothing is so
sure to injure a bulb as stagnant water about its
roots. The ideal soil is rotted sod, leaf-mold, and
sand. The bed should be deeply dug, and the soil
thoroughly pulverized. If fertilizer be used, it should
be thoroughly rotted and placed in the bottom of the
bed where the roots will find it, but where it cannot
come into contact with the bulb.

The bed should be shaded from the hot midday
sun, as its scalding rays injure the beauty of the
blossoms, and sometimes cause the buds to blast.

Fall planting is best for all lily bulbs, though
spring planting does very well with some kinds, for
example, the Madonna lily. They should be set
from 8 to 18 inches deep, and from 1 to 3 feet apart,
with some good drainage material placed under each
bulb.

A SPECIAL BULB-GARDEN

Good results can be secured anywhere with bulbs,
but they are so highly specialized in their natural
characters that some particular attention may well
be given to them in garden designing.

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 59

The need is arising more and more for “special-
ized gardens,’—gardens that shall cater to special
horticultural tastes and ambitions. And it is sur-
prising how few people realize what a fund of pleasure
is offered, ready to their hand, in even a tiny garden
that contains a complete collection of some one of
their flower favorites.

One hears always the complaints of ‘‘too little
space,” “too much bother,” ‘‘too hard to take care
of successfully,”’ and last but by no means least, ‘“‘our
summer vacation prevents,”’ offered as excuses for the
lack of a garden in many suburban and city homes.

And, for these varied reasons, I believe, are we
so often confronted by the ever-prevalent front-yard
‘“Vvariety-shop”’ type of planting, that strives futilely
to be lawn, shrubbery border, and flower-garden,
all in one; and which, as even an uncritical public
can perceive, too often lamentably fails in its effect.

But to own a garden—and a livable, lovable
garden at that—does not necessarily mean that one
must be possessed of riches, trained gardeners, a
huge quantity of land, or even that one must remain
on the premises throughout the summer. The
specialized garden offers you beauty and enjoyment in
whatever form, or at whatever time of the year, you
may prefer.

MISCELLANEOUS BULBS

There are many bulbs, not so well known, per-
haps, as the tulip and hyacinth, but which deserve
a prominent place in the bulb-garden. Some of these

60 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

are mentioned in the planting table in the back of
this book, with hints as to their treatment.

The ranunculus is an odd-looking bulb, produ-
cing flowers of yellow, white and scarlet in early
spring. These can be planted late in the fall, about
3 inches deep, care being taken to place the claws
on the bulb downward.

Scillas, or old-fashioned squills, are fine for per-
manent edging, and their rich blue flowers make a
beautiful contrast, when mixed with snowdrops. The
Star of Bethlehem, or ornithogalum, with green and
white flowers, is splendid for naturalizing in the
wild garden.

Grape and feathered hyacinths, with small spikes
of little blue or white bells are charming when
naturalized among shrubbery or grown in a mixed
bed.

Montbretias, or tritonias, bloom in the summer,
and have brilliant, loose spikes of flowers in shades
of yellow and red. These can be treated like gladioli,
or can be left permanently in the ground if given a
slight protection in winter.

Ixias are curious flowers of the most brilliant
colors, and can be treated like tulips, but must be
given more protection.

No bulb-garden can be complete without a good
show of Spanish iris, which are becoming more
popular each year. This species is different from the
German iris, and blooms in all imaginable shades
from white to deep purple, with a good mixture of
yellow.

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 61

One of the most gorgeous bulbous flowers is the
fritillaria, or crown imperial, with a long stem.
surmounted by a cluster of rich crimson and yellow
flowers. This is perfectly hardy, and can be grown
amongst the shrubbery or in the perennial border.
It makes an effective center to beds of other bulbs,
but is not so good for growing in a bed by itself. It
is one of the most conspicuous of all the spring flowers
and should be grown more generally than it is.

There are many other bulbs, but most of them are ,
best treated as perennials and planted where they
are to remain permanently. In this class are lily-of-
the-valley and the anemone, both of which grow in
good garden soil without any special treatment.

SEVERAL GOOD QUALITIES

From many types of specialized garden, the spring-
flowering garden of bulbs offers itself as one of the
foremost in popularity. It fulfils so many demands.

It is a blaze of color just when one’s garden
desire is keenest, after the bleak, cold days of waning
winter; it is easiest of all to care for, as, with the
exception of a few, the bulbs are permanent, and
increase in beauty from year to year; and, best of all,
it can be left to its own devices during the vacation
months, with the certainty that its beauty will not
be spoiled for the coming flowering season.

A Dutch bulb-garden may be as small as your
purse or fancy dictates; but in its designing there
are three special points that must be taken into

62 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

consideration: First, the boundaries used; second,
the laying out of walks and beds; third, the varieties
and arrangement of the bulbs selected as regards
the boundaries. One naturally thinks first of the
many beautiful spring-flowering shrubs that, planted
in irregular masses or in,a double hedge, are used in
so many gardens of today. But, in such a garden as
we have before us, this is not the best kind of boun-
dary to use. The garden interest should focus in the
bulbs themselves, and not be drawn aside from the
garden’s specialty. A brick or stone wall is one of
the best boundaries for such a garden, but is beyond
the reach of the average garden-lover’s purse. Last
comes a hedge of evergreen shrubs, and this is by
far the most beautiful and satisfactory method of
designating the boundaries of such a garden for
general use. Box or holly, where it can thrive satis-
factorily, and, in colder climates, fir, or best of all
arborvite, form a hedge against which the full
beauty of the glowing masses of flowers attains its
fullest perfection.

PATHS AND BEDS

As to the arrangement of paths and beds, they
should be severely formal. In no other type of
garden, save perhaps in that abomination known as
“carpet bedding,” can formality and stiffness of
design be used to such good advantage. In a bulb-
garden, geometrical arrangements of beds and paths
ean be used without giving offense, which in other

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 63

types of gardening would be considered impossible.
This, of course, does not apply to the form of spring
“wild garden,” in which bulbs are naturalized in the
grass.

The bulbs should not be too much scattered, but
massed boldly as to color and variety; nor should
perennial bulbs and bulbs that must. be replaced
each year be planted together in such a way as to
cause difficulty in handling.

In the accompanying diagram, the five central
beds around the sun-dial are intended to contain the
ordinary early-flowering tulips, that must be lifted
and replaced each year. The colors may be selected .
as desired, but it is preferable to use only one deep
color to a bed. A good color scheme would be to
have the bed containing the sun-dial of scarlet and
scarlet edged yellow, as striking a central note in the
garden’s color arrangement. The four surrounding
beds could be planned as follows:

1. Center, yellow tulips edged and _ streaked
with red; or plain yellow tulips, with a border of
white tulips.

2. Center, pale pink tulips, edged with a border
of white tulips streaked and splashed with pink.

3. Center, dark red tulips, edged with a border
of white tulips streaked and flecked with red.

4. Center lavender, gray, and purple tulips, with
a border of white tulips shaded, streaked and edged
with lavender.

It will be necessary to select varieties blooming
at the same time.

64 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN

DETAILS OF PLANTING

The hyacinths in the four round beds should be
of solid colors, edged with white. Pink, lavender,
light blue, and yellow are good colors to use. The
red may be substituted in place of the yellow.

In the four larger corner beds, double tulips
should be used, in much the same color scheme as in
the case of the single ones.

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A well-arranged bulb-garden

HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 65

The outer border nearest the hedge is of late-
flowering Darwin and Cottage Garden tulips that
do not need to be moved, but increase in number
each year. From six to a dozen bulbs should be
massed in each clump, and each clump should con-
tain but one variety. Lines of narcissi, containing
from fifty to five hundred bulbs in a line, according
to the size of the garden and the number of varieties
used, should be planted among the tulips, as shown
by the diagram. Of course, only one variety should
be used in a line.

Finally, a little Dutch bulb-garden is within the
reach of all. It can give beauty to a tiny city lot, or
can be stretched to cover a large suburban place.
Its cost is not prohibitive, neither is the care of it.
A few annuals sown when the bulbs are losing their
beauty transform it into a little summer annual
garden; or, if the family is to be away for the summer,
weeds may grow and flourish unmolested, with the
certainty that they will cause no harm. Winter
frosts will kill them, and clear the ground for the
spring’s display, with only a little aid from the
amateur gardener. And the spring days will bring
with them a newer and livelier interest.

PLANTING TABLES

Finally, it seems best to summarize all the fore-
going points, along with much other information on
the planting and culture of bulbs, in a planting
table. Here it is:

A PLANTING TABLE FOR

Common and Botanical Names

Tender |

or. |
Hardy |

Chilian Lily (Alstremeria Chilensis).....
Belladonna Lily (Amaryjllis Belladonna).
Poppy Anemone (Anemone coronaria)...
Spirea (Astilbe Japonica)............-.
Floral Firecracker (Brodizxa coccinea)... .

Josephine Amaryllis (Brunsvigia Jose-
DIU er Rea ee hens Seta costes take

Mariposa Tulip (Calochortus venustus)...
Glory-of-the-Snow (Chionodoxa Lu-
ULE RE oe Oe I eM eae a STS mete oie
Meadow Saffron (Colchicum autum-
PON SIS Pies repre RA CR Oe ICO
Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis)..
Powell’s Crinum (Crinum Powellii).....
Spring Crocus (Crocus Susianus).......
Fall Crocus (Crocus speciosus)..........
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis).. ..
Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis).....
Eremurus (Hremurus robustus).........

Dog’s-tooth Violet (Hrythronium Dens-
Canis)

Freesia (Freesia refracta)...............
Crown Imperial (Fritillaria imperialis). .
Snake’s Head (Fritillaria Meleagris)....

Scarlet Fritillaria (Fritillaria recurva)... .

A

(66)

Color

Red, yellow
Red to white
Red, blue,
white
White, pink,
Red

Red

Yellow
Blue

Purple, pink,
white
White

Pink

Yellow, pur-
ple, white
Lilac

Red
Yellow
Rosy

Rosy purple,
lilae
White

Red, orange,
yellow
Purple and
green
Scarlet

AONE

Depth | Dist.
to Plant} Apart

(In.) (In.)
4 24
3 50
2 3
2 18
2 4
6 24
8 8
2 2

2-3 6
3 2
8 12

2-3 3-4

2-3 3-4
2 36
3 6
2 48
3 3
1 2

3-6 6-8

2-3 4
3 6

BULBS INDOORS AND OUT

Time to | ° Blooms
Force Helpful Hints
(Weeks) | Indoors Outdoors
July Bulbs need protection over winter; they must
not freeze. Bulbs not ready until November.
6 March Bae ote Give rich soil and store until flower-scapes show
in February in temperature of 45°.
8-10 March Ud Se Must be given protection over winter. In-
doors, plant four roots in a 5-inch pot.
12-14 March May Indoors, give 55°. Improved varieties: Glad-
stone (white),Queen Alexandra (blush-pink).
16 March PEG Brilliant crimson, green-tipped flower, 14%
inches long. Very ornamental.

July Prepare ground for planting and mulch till
bulbs arrive, or pot bulbs and plant in early
spring.

10 March June Must be mulched to prevent freezing and thaw-
ing during open winters and early spring.

25 Christmas March Plant in clumps or in line at edge of borders, or
on south side of house.

Sept. Scatter in lawn, or plant in clumps in front of
border. Flowers without leaves.

21 January May For outdoors, buy clumps; for indoors, pips.
Store in damp sand in a cool place.

July Must be protected by a deep mulch of ashes,
and is not hardy in northern states.

2 Christmas March Plant six or eight in a 6-inch pan; force in tem-

perature of 55°. Cloth of Gold best variety.

Sept.—Nov.| Place order early, and plant as soon as re-

ceived. They will bloom soon after planting.

12 March May Buy pot-grown roots for forcing. Force gently
and keep plants near the glass.

March Prefers a half-shaded situation. Mark the

situation, so that bulbs will not be injured.
May Must be planted before Sept. 1. Needs well-
drained soil and southern exposure. Mulch.
May Prefers a light, well-drained soil; excellent for —
rockeries or massing under shrubs.

16 Christmas Spa Make first planting in August. Succession pro-
vided by holding plants in light, cool place.
April Flowers have a fetid odor. Grow in clumps.
Rich, well-drained soil.

April Grown -in border or rock-garden, in deep,
sandy soil; good cut-flower.

wlio. Paavers May Very different from other fritillarias, and, by
some, considered the best,

(67)

A PLANTING TABLE FOR

Common and Botanical Names

Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis)

Early-flowering Gladiolus (G. Colvillez)...

Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger)

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.)
Summer Hyacinth (H. candicans)......
Dutch Hyacinth (H. orientalis).........
Italian Hyacinth

Vie, 0) 0\'0 p90 ros we Pls ile,¢ 0 6 16 6 8 0

Roman Hyacinth

2p (ols iw, 6) BLO 46 © (0:8) .0 608, 6.0m ..6 811614,

Hardy Gloxinia (Incarvillea Delavayi)...

German Iris (Iris Germanica)

a Re, Ol ee Wo ee

English Iris (Iris Xiphioides)

see ew ew ewee

Spanish Iris (Iris Xiphium)

African Corn Lily (Ixia maculata)

Red-Hot-Poker Plant (Kniphofia spp.)..

‘Leopard Lily (Lachenalia tricolor)

Snowflake (Leucojum zxstivum)

Gold-banded Lily (Lilium auratum).....

seer eee

Meadow Lily (Liliwm Canadense)

Ascension Lily (Liliwm candidum)

Thunberg’s Lily (Liliwm elegans)

Tender Depth | Dist.
- or Color to Plant| Apart
Hardy (In.) (In.)
Hi; , White 2 3
ri Dp Red, white 2, 6
H. White 4 12
si Red 2 6
H: White 4 6
H. All colors 3-5 5-6
1. White 1 3
Jel: All colors 4 6
13l Purplish rose 4 18
H. All colors 3 18
Jel Blue, white 3 5
EG Blue, yellow 2 4
Ts All colors 3 2
H. Red £ 24
ER? Yellow, tip- 1 3
ped green
EE: White 4 4
EF, White 6 12
H. Yellow, 6 i
orange, red
H. White 6 12
H. Yellow 7 12

orange, red

BULBS INDOORS AND OUT, continued

Time to Blooms
Force l

(Weeks) Indoors Outdoors

Helpful Hints

3 Christmas March
12 March

2-3 Christmas

8 April
July

January April

is

January

ee

Christmas April

June

May

6 January June

8 January May

8 March June
August

8 March

May
August
June

June .

16 Christmas

June

Dec.-Mch.

Grow in clumps in border; and, for earliest
flowers, on,south side of walls.

Only early varieties can be forced; others ‘‘go
blind.’’ Grow in a temperature of 45° to 50°.

Needs rich, well-drained soil, and should be
mulched over winter. Particular as to lo-
cation.

Summer by plunging outdoors. Store in winter
in temperature of 45°. Begin forcing in Feb.

Flowers like snowdrops in spikes. Grow in
clumps. Need light, rich soil.

Need a rich soil for best results.
before the turn of the year.

Plant three to a 4-inch or six to a 6-inch pan.
Later than Romans.

Small-flowering Dutch hyacinths. Give the
same treatment and as many to a pot as
Italian.

Needs rich, sandy loam, and sunny, sheltered
situationsin border. Large, trumpet flowers.

Grows in any well-drained soil. Divide fre-
quently to prevent crowding. Good as
borders or clump.

Beds must be well mulched. Needs rich, fri-
able loam. Excellent cut-flowers.

Beds must be well mulched. Needs well-
drained, sandy soil, and put sand about
bulbs.

Indoors, treat as freesias. Outdoors, plant in
November. Bulbs must not freeze.

In northern states, take up and store in damp
sand in a cool place over winter.

Curiously mottled leaves. Needs treatment of
Cape bulbs. Grow in shallow pans near
glass.

Prefers half shade. Green-tipped, snowdrop-
like flowers in clusters; 15 inches tall.

Very showy, but hard to make live over from
year to year.

Easily grown in border, among shrubbery or
naturalized in the grass. Well-drained soil.

Effective in clumps, with dark background or
in lines along walks in formal garden.

Prefers peaty soil, and either full sun or half
shade. Mulch the ground.

(69)

Do not force

A PLANTING TABLE FOR

Common and Botanical Names

, Tender
H or
Hardy

Easter Lily (Lilium longiflorum)......
Spotted Lily (Liliwm speciosum)........
Turk’s-cap Lily (Lilium superbum)......
Tiger Lily (Lilium tigrinum)...........
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari botryoides).. . .
INaxcissus: bulbocoditim). 22 ccs) 5 et
Narcissus incomparabilis ..............
Jonquils ( Narcissus Jonquilla).........
INAECISSHS POCHICUS. A. ak Seeks OS
Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus...........
Paper-White Narcissus (N. Tazetta)....
Guernsey Lily (Nerine Sarniensis)......
Arabian Star of Bethlehem (Ornitho-
Galuine AX GOICUIN DRE Som bas SR RS
Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbel-
LEONI tae RE R te Ne Chee Ee

Bermuda Buttercup (Ozalis)...........

Late Peony (Pxonia albiflora)..........

Tree Peony (Pxonia Moutan)..........
Early Peony (Pxonia officinalis)........
‘Persian Ranunculus (B. Asiaticus).....
Calla (Richardia Africana).............
Squills. (Sella Subtried).. 0... x66. vos, ee

Wood Hyacinth (Scilla Hispanica)......

too of 4d SS hOB Ron oR Rom of fs

Color

Witte
Pink, red,
white
Orange, red
Red, ‘spotted
purple
Blue, white
Yellow
Yellow, white
Yellow

White

| Yellow, white

White, yellow
Crimson
White
White
Yellow

Crimson,
pink, white

White
to crimson
White
to crimson
Yellow, red

White
Blue

Blue, white,
pink

Depth | Dist.

to Plant} Apart

(In.) (In.)
1 3
8 12
6 12
8 12

1-3 2-3
5 3
4 6
5 3
6 2. 4
6 5
1 3
2 6
1 3
3 6
1 3
4 48
4 48
4 48
1 3
1 12
3 4
3 4

BULBS INDOORS AND OUT, continued

Time to

Force
(Weeks)

12-14

Blooms
Indoors Outdoors
February .
August
July
August
January April
January April
January April
January April
January May
January April

Christmas.

Christmas

March
All winter
January

January

Sept.
March

May

May, June

May, June

May

March

May

Helpful Hints

The best Easter lily; pot as soon as received,
and bury pots until December 1.

Needs light, well-drained soil. Most effective
in masses in border, with dark background.

Well-drained soil necessary. Excellent for
planting among rhododendrons in beds.

Naturalize near borders of shrubbery or along
walls in half-shaded situations.

Naturalize in grass in clumps. Indoors, grown
in shallow pans.

Needs well-drained soil and heavy mulch, as it
is not very hardy.

Many varieties. Divide clumps every five or
six years. Grow in clumps in border.

Give well-drained soil. Fragrant. Two to six
flowers on stalk.

Excellent for naturalizing in lawn or in masses
in border. Fragrant.

Very fragrant. Plant in masses in border or as
an edging for shrubbery.

Easily forced for Christmas in temperature of
55° if potted up early.

Plants make their growth during the winter
and rest from May to August.

Put six bulbs in 8-inch pot. Leaves need
staking. Flowers have black centers.

Naturalize in grass, in partially shaded places,
or plant in clumps in border.

Plant six to eight bulbs in 6-inch pot. For
earliest flowers, plant in August.

Transplant in September when growth has
ripened. Single flowers, with bunch of yel-
low stamens.

Does not flower until third year. Needs pro-
tected situation and mulch over winter.

Plant singly or in masses. Prefers half-shade.
Divide roots every five or six years.

Plant eight or ten in 8-inch pan; treat as Cape
bulb. Grow in coolhouse.

Needs rich soil and an abundance of water.
Thrive best in temperature of 55°.

Best early blue spring flower. Plant in clumps
in border. Prefers sandy soil.

Thrives in any soil. Plant in masses in rock-
garden or borders. j

(71)

A PLANTING TABLE FOR

Tender Depth |} Dist.

Common and Botanical Names or , -aColer to Plant} Apart
Hardy (In.) (In.)
Wandflower (Sparazis)..........-+20-- cB. Red, yellow il 3
Autumn Daffodil (Sternbergia lutea)..... iE Yellow 6 6
Wake-Robin (Trillium grandiflorum).... Hy, White 4 6
Montbretia (Tritonia crocosmeflora)... 186 Orange, 4 6
crimson
Cottage Tulip (Tulipa Gesneriana)...... H. All but blue 3 5
Early Tulip (Twulipa swaveolens)......... lol All but blue 3 5
Scarborough Lily (Vallota purpurea).... Ate Blood-red 1 6
1

(72)

BULBS INDOORS AND OUT, continued

Time to Blooms
LNORtE S| Sapa en
(Weeks) Indoors Outdoors
8 March
sept.
May
July
May
3-4 January April
Sept.

Helpful Hints

Cape bulb. Plant eight to ten in an 8-inch pan
in rich soil. Needs temperature of 55°.

Prefer heavy soil in rather dry situation where
they can rest during summer.

Needs a shaded situation and a deep, rich
moist soil. Excellent for rock-gardens or
borders.

Hardy as far north as Massachusetts and New
York, if protected by mulch or coldframe.
The late or May-blooming tulip. Bedding

plant or plant in clumps in border.

Duc Van Thol the earliest variety. Use as a
bedding plant.

Plant one bulb in a 6-inch pot. An evergreen.
May be stored in light cellar.

(73)

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