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6

common practice, I would call your attention
to some of the most common causes of annoy-
ance and trouble, both in relation to the pecu-
liarities of disposition to be found in horses,
and to imprudence of management, that should

be guarded against. 7

It must be admitted that our present Theory
of subjection for both general and. local resist-
ance, is by far the most scientific and practical
that has yet been discovered or taught, and
that we can produce results now with horses
which to assume ability to do a few years since,
would be regarded as impossible. We have’
shown how easy it is to control the most power-
ful horse, and how readily the most vicious
animal will yield perfect obedience to every
command when properly treated. But prin-
ciples, are simply rules to accomplish certain
ends most easily and surely, and their prin-
cipal value in practice must depend upon the
judgment used in applying them. The horse
is governed by fixed laws. He is an animal of
great strength, and acute sensibilities.

Now, as the sensibilities excite the action of
the mind in calling the strength into play, it is
quite or more important that the sensibilities
are not exposed to causes that would excite
their undue action, as well as aim to combat |
resistance when excited.

The mind or BRAIN is the part that controls
the animal, and to this the attention must be
directed as the key through the action of which
the animal is guided and controlled. It is by
the brain the horse understands and obeys, and
it is by the brain or nervous system, being sub-
jected to bad impressions, that resistance or
fear is excited. If the fears and passions are

7

excited in forcing obedience, the increased re-
sistance in consequence neutralises the adyan-
tage of power, or the necessity for force will
_ be greatly increased; if, on the contrary,
physical resistance is overcome without exciting
the passions, no resistance being excited, obedi-
ence is easily secured. A man will not fight
if not excited in some way, and a child is good
natured, and progresses rapidly and smoothly
in his studies if gently and skillfuly instructed.
If scolded, abused, and irritated, the animal
part of his nature subverts the reason, and the
‘only impulse is enmity and retaliation. Of
course it is the primary object, and it is one of
the great conditions of success, to guard against
causes of excitement, which, it is conceded
without argument, always increases the diffi-
culties of success, by not only so confusing the
mind as to be unable to act, but increasing the
difficulty of resistance, it is important to prevent.

The simplest and rudest form of government
is that based upon power to take life or inflict
bodily injury—the weak yielding to the strong
from necessity; the highest and most successful
that of addressing and winning the co-operation
of the reason and affections. Human govern-
ment is based upon the restraints and penalties
of law, Divine government to the highest facul-
ties of the mind and affections. The more
ignorant and excited by passion a people, the
more severe and positive must be the powers of
restraint and punishment; the more enlight-
ened and free from depraving influences, the
less necessity for restraint or watchfulness.

On the same principle, we see that the more
animal predisposition there is in a horse, or the
more his bad nature is excited, the more unre-

8

liable the character, and the more difticulty
there will be in forcing obedience.

The point now of nice importance is: How
ean the wild, bad horse, be reduced to perfect
subjection without exciting the passions, or
endangering injury. This I have shown how
to do, and of course cannot give explanations
of the treatment here—excepting those on de-
tails, which wil! be found hereafter, since it
was taught as a secret; but based upon this is
the object of showing’ and teaching the horse a
knowledge of what is required, and on this
point I would call the attention of the reader
to an imprudence that must be guarded against, .
of pounding, yelling and jerking, that can have
no other effect upon the animal than to irritate
and confuse.

Importance of Trath and Uniformity.

Horses cannot tall, and conseqtiently cannot
understand the meaning of language, only so
far as associated witl actions. ‘The meaning of
words or signals, can only be learned by associa-
ting words with actions—consequently, to un-
derstand clearly the meaning of each signal or
command, they must be uniform, necessitating
care in conveying the meaning desired, using
only the actions and words by which the ani-
mal is taught to do what is required. Now it
is acommon, but of course unintentional, fault
in most men, not only in training, bat in using
their horses, to talk and act so carelessly with
them, that it is scarcely possible for even the
best trained horses to understand, or obey
promptly the commands of the driver. For
example, it is common to say ‘* whoa,” on any

y

and most all occasions. If going‘ too fast whoa
is several times repeated to go slower.

A gentleman while showing me a favorite
horse, that would not stop or stand when com-
manded, when approaching and while handling
the animal said whoa fourteen times, though it
was necessary to say whoa but once. Yet the
man could not see that such treatment was
exactly of the character to teach carelessness
and resistance.

There could not be an understanding of the
commands since they were without definite
meaning.

It is evident that if a horse is not moving,
this word when used looses the force of its
meaning, and if it is desired to go slower it
cannot convey the idea desired, since it is the
signal for stopping. The best trained horse in
the world would soon be spoiled by such care-
lessness of expression. Not only this, but
there is a habit of yelling every little command
that is out of all reason. As the horse must
learn to understand, and to obey every com-
mand by actions and words, the expressions
given to the actions and words should be care-
fully regulated to indicate the energy and
_ promptness with which obedience becomes
necessary. For all ordinary purposes, the tone
of voice should be rather low, but clear and
distinct ; at each repetition a little sharper and
more positive; and there should be the greatest
care to exact perfect obedience to each com-
mand; as it is only by each word and action,
and the expression with which they are given,
having exact and fixed meaning, that the horse
can understand instantly, and obey with cer-
tainty and readiness.

1*

16

‘oo much at a time should not be attempted
with the horse during his tuition. The lessons
should be short, but thorough, encouraging by
little presents of apples, or something the ani-
mal likes, for obedience. Special care should
be taken to thus caress and reward a sensitive,
courageous horse, especially after resisting, and
force has been used.

Extremes of Intelligemce and Temper.

In studying animal nature, we see the more
brain and less animal propensity, the more
intelligence and less wildness and ferocity ; and
the less brain and more animal nature, the less
intelligence and more tenacity of resistance—
showing extremes and modifications of intelli-
gence and character in exact accordance to the
relation and strength of brain, and the different
faculties by which excited and controlled.

Hach type of character would seem to be an
extreme or modification of this law; those of
the domestic class having more brain or pro-
portionately less of the fierce wildness and
combative disposition of the wild animals.

This we see illustrated in a remarkable de-
gree, not only in the wild and more savage of
the lower animals, but in the domestic animals ;
showing even marked extremes in the same
family. Hence, one dog is affectionate and
gentle, another is surly, cross and savage. In
almost every herd or group of farm animals
there is one more wild or vicious than the
others. One cow is more difficult to approach
and milk than the others; one ox or mule is
more difficult and dangerous to manage than
others; and by the same law, we see there is

4 2

greater or less degrees of vitality—it being a
common remark that such naturally wild and
vicious animals are much more hardy and en-
during than those that are not.

Pe
t nt (eeu <A;
ets
sae 7a SOV
FIERY—NEEDS WATCHING.

The horse is perhaps the best inuowracion of
these characteristics. Thus we see that in pro-
portion to the degree there is predominance
or balance of animal nature, there is positive-
ness or not of character; and to the degree
that we find sensibility and intelligence to
counterbalance, or in excess of the animal na-
ture, there will be corresponding docility and
intelligence.

The Lama, (used to carry burthens over the
Andes,) having but little of this coarse nature,
will not bear abuse, and will lie down discour-
aged and die, if overloaded and not relieved.
The Camel of a less sensitive type will toil
patiently and nobly under the heaviest burden,

1%

meekly submitting to any extreme of abuse.
The ass, mule or ox, having a still larger modi-
fication of the combative type, are more posi-
tive and aggressive, and consequently liable to
become more dangerous and difficult to manage.

The horse, (acknowledged to be the nearest
correllet of man in disposition,) possesses all the
modifications and extremes of disposition and
muscular activity of the other animals, and is
by far the most powerful, persistent and plastic
of the domestic animals. Hence, we see sensi-
bility, intelligence, courage and activity, ex-
pressive of the roving ambition and generous
nobility of man’s finer and purer natare.

If there is great predisposition to resistance,
more VITALITY or bottom may be anticipated,
and proportionately more care and energy will
become necessary to win obedience and docil-
ity. This is proved not only in the horse but
in the treatment of the domestic animals be-
fore named.

BRENSITIVE AND FLIGHTY.

13

The Lanza, being of a nervous temperament,
with scarcely a trace of coarse animal nature,
does not need the whip, and will yield obedi-
ence most readily to affectionate treatment,
while those of courage and will, combat resis-
tance, and bear and eontest resistance with
energy. A quick, sensitive, excitable horse
will not bear rough careless treatment to the
degree that a slow cold-blooded one would,
and horses having large active brains will
learn more easily and yield more readily to
restraint than those of a sullen, mulish dispo-
sition.

Fine Blooded Horses Require More Care.

The slow, patient, dull horse may work from
the start in harness kindly, while the warm
blooded sensitive horse is usually nervous and
excitable, and requires more care and skillful
treatment to insure perfect submission to the
irritation and restraint of harness or wagon;
and is persistently reckless in resistance when
excited by fear, or when taught to resist con-
trol in any way.

Indications of Character.

Character is usually indicated by certain
peculiarities. Large size denotes great strength,
and fine dense texture shows activity and ca-
pacity to endure prolonged exertion. A large,
prominent, bold, eager, but mild and pleasant
eye, full broad forehead, distance short from
eyes to ears, ears short and tapering or active,
denotes great natural docility and intelligence ;
while small round eyes, set well into the head,

id

or eye-lids heavy, forehead narrow, long from
eyes to ears, ears long and flabby or drooping,
indicate a mean treacherous disposition.

DULL AND TREACHEROUS.

15

From these extremes modifications are wun-
limited, developing new phases of character
that call for more or less modification of the
efforts.

To the practised eye the exact type of temper-
ament or disposition becomes instantly per-
ceptible, by the peculiarities and expression of
countenance and density of texture.

Care in Breeding.

‘There are many remote causes that greatly
affect the character of the horse, that deserves
the serious consideration of the thoughtful
horseman, without an understanding of which
there cannot be a correct comprehension of the
subject. However apparently trifling first causes
may appear in themselves, it is certain that
they often lead to.consequences that the most
careful and thorough treatment will partially
or wholly fail to overcome.

In studying causes that powerfully affect the
character, by inducing derangement of the ner-
vous system or mania: If we go to the source
we must go back to the sires and the condition
of the nervous system at the time they were
brought together. It is an inviolate law of
nature that like produces like. It is evident,
therefore, that to raise good horses, good horses
must be bred from. This is not only true re-
garding size, form, soundness, and density of
texture, but in disposition. As much carte
should be taken in the selection of horses for
good disposition, as for size, symmetry, action
and strong circulation. It is also undoubtedly
true that the condition of the nervous system
at the time of connection, and the condition in

16

which the mare is kept during gestation, has a
powerful effect upon the character of the colt.
If the horse is of the most gentle character, if
mad when used to the mare, so marked is the
effect of the excitement that the colt is almost
sure to prove of a bad irritable temper. If
the mare is subjected to a great shock of fear,
or greatly abused- while with foal, the colt is
almost sure to show the effect by being of an
extremely irritable, flighty unreliable character.

Colts Must Not be Excited.

A marked extreme of viciousness or lunacy
may be produced by more direct and noticable
causes. To illustrate this, I will refer to one
out of many instances of this character. A
three year old colt that was noted for gentle-
ness, being raised a pet and allowed to run at
large, trespassed on a neighbor’s premises.
Dogs, shouting, &c., had lost all effect in the
efforts to keep the colt away, and from an
impulse of vexation the boys tied a tin pan to
the colt’s tail, and then set the dogs after the
animal. At first the colt did not seem to notice
the pan, but when pressed by the dogs and it
began to pound and rattle against the heels,
alarm was excited. The most vain efforts to
get away from the terrible object, by kicking
und running, was resorted to, until exhausted ;
and the effect was so powerful upon the ner-
vous system, that the stirring or touching of
anything near, or to the hind parts, would cause
the greatest fear and reckless kicking. The fear
thus excited became involuntary by being thus
deranged, and the colt was spoiled. No matter
how excited, if greatly frightened the effect is

17

the same upon the nervous system. The most
careless observer can searcely fail to notice
horses that are afraid of an umbrella, a robe, a
top wagon, the sound of a drum, or something
by which at some time suddenly excited, and
getting away, the impression of fear became
so strong, that the object became ever after-
wards a cause of the greatest terror. Once run-
ning away, and kicking, breaking the hitching
strap, or in any way resisting control success-
fully, leads to the habit becoming fixed.

It is the brain by which the ‘animal under-
stands and is animated, and it is the effects
prodneed directly or indirectly upon the brain,
by rousing the fears or passions, that excites
the resistance; and the object of course must
be to weaken and neutralize the effect by
addressing and winuing the action of the mind
in the opposite direction.

Whipping Dangerous.

Though at the risk of making this paper too
long, I ‘would call attention to another point
worthy of consideration. Namely, that of ex-
citing the ill will of the animal. Many suppose
they ¢ are doing finely, and are proud of their
success by severe whipping, or otherwise rous-
ing and stimulating the passions. No mistake
can be greater and there is not anything
that so well illustrates the genius and delt-
cacy of the real horseman, more clearly than
the care displayed in winning instead of
repelling the action of the mind. If a child
is whipped and scolded, and left feeling ex-
cited and mad, there is an involuntary feel-
ing of hate inspired against the parent,

18

though the object of the reproof was intended
for the good of the child—still the effect is
depraving, because the passions only are ex-
cited. If after the reproof, the parent had
taken a seat by the child, and appealed to the
reason and affections, by assuring that it was
a cause of the greatest regret and pain to him
to be compelled to resort to reproof, that it was
intended for good—and thus by a little care
and attention the contrition of the heart, would.
be excited by a proof of kindness, and the effect
would be to win the child from disobedience.
The principle is precisely the same with horses,
and it must not be disregarded in the manage-
ment of sensitive courageous horses only at
the hazard of spoiling them. The better to
explain the force of this principle, I will illus-
trate by referring to a case of recent occurence,

I bought a fine Gifford-Morgan horse, (eight
years old, a stallion,) early in the summer of
66, to train to drive without reins. The horse
was naturally mild and intelligent, but pos-
sessed much latent energy. He would obey
every command in driving and handling, with
the most genuine pleasure and promptness of
any horse I ever saw, and. was as innocent in his
action as a pet dog. Whip training is. terribly
severe, and it is impossible to make a horse
reliable until absolute submission ean be forced
by it, which of course requires a severe use of
the whip; and it has to be used with great
care and judgment, in order to make the horse
understand every motion of it, yet not be
afraid of it. It was with the utmost reluctance
that I commenced training the animal. My
sympathies were most keenly touched for sub-
jecting him to the severity of the whip, yet I

19

could not avoid it. I paid a large price for the
horse, for this purpose, and it must be done.
I made the horse a fine driver without affecting
his temper in the least. My health failing I
wag compelled to sell the horse, with four
others, all stallions also trained. The purchaser
of this horse was considered a good careful
man, but like the average of people he felt
that he could handle or drive any horse by the
simple or rude force of the whip. He whipped
the horse for putting his ears back as if to bite
him. Seeing the owner soon after his doing
so, Ijwarned him not to do so again, and to
at once enlist the horse’s confidence by giving
apples, &c. This was disregarded. The whip-
_ ping was repeated in a few days. As before, I
strongly remonstrated, in the most positive
terms, telling the man he would by a few repe-
titions of such treatment, excite the enmity of
the animal so much that he could not do any
thing withhim. The result was as I predicted,
that the‘horse,became a perfect maniac within
a week—so desperate that he would tear any
one to pieces—one of the most desperate horses
IT ever saw. By asimple course of subjection
I made him gentle in thirty minutes. I ordered
a careful groom to take charge of him, gave
the groom special directions, requiring each
time he went to his stall to give him a present
of an apple or something he liked. The horse
remained gentle, but to this time, (two years
after), ‘the horse will not bear the presence of
his owner, though gentle to others.

I have known many horses of a perfectly
gentle character to be spoiled by being whipped
once, and one horse that was made vicious by
being struck with the whip once install. Could

2)

refer to very many instances illustrative of the
effects of pounding and whipping in this way.
Indeed, so sensitive are some horses, (more
generally mares,) that from a remembrance of
man’s rudeness, they will pull excitedly when
driven by a man, but are as gentle and mode-
‘ate as most any old horse when driven by a
woman. Woman being more gentle and never
using the whip severely, their control does not
excite the. nervous system. Sensitive horses
should not be left, after exciting their anger by
whip or other means, until calmed down by
rubbing head and neck the way the hair lies,’
and giving apples, sugar, or something of which
the animal is fond. The whip must be used
with care, since it is only a means of reproof.
Rudely and persistently used it is liable to
irritate so much as to excite enmity and re-
sistance. (See Driving.)

Courage.

Very many boast of not being afraid of any
horse, &e. To a really experienced horseman
such assertions show ignorance and inexpe-
rience. Very many of the most lamentable
accidents that occur with horses are the result
of this imprudence. It is almost impossible to
convince a man who has never been run away
with, that a horse could run away with him
while he held the reins, or that he cannot
drive a kicker safely by any care that can be
used ; and when such are run away with, or
have a horse kick and get away, they declare
and think they can drive aud manage any horse
but that one. A horse of course that has
learned to resist the bit successfully, cannot be

21

held by the reins if excited; at all events the
control is too limited and doubtful to be haz-
arded. Ihave found many hundreds of horses
that could not be driven, and would run away
regardless of the most severe bits, though
pulled upon by several men. I will go farther
by stating that I have seen many horses that
would pull on a walk from two to four men by
the reins, though tugging and pulling as they
pleased. Of course it is the most senseless
umprudence to try to drive and hold such
horses, when there is almost certainty of being
-unable to resist restraint should the animal be-
come excited.

While it is highly important to appear
fearless and confident when approaching. and
handling horses, it is not to be assumed a
horse will not kick or bite because courage is
shown. An Irishman, who supposed that a
horse would not dare to injure him if he would
stand still and show no fear, walked into the
enclosure of a vicious stallion. The horse
rushed upon him, bit and struck him down,
and it was with the greatest difficulty that the
man was rescued, but at the cost of a broken
arm and leg, and serious internal injuries. I
once had to jump for my life to get away from
a mare. When [ saw her rush for me, saw
instantly that escape was my only alternative,
and not having time to jump, sprang head
foremost over the high enclosure. It was a
trick to defeat me, as all my would be pupils
laughed, and to my surprise, for the first time
saw that all were overhead, out of all possible
danger. The animal, was of the most desper-
ate and dangerous character. She would run
at a man with all the ferocity of a dog, and

22

would have bit and trampled me under foot,
could she have got to me, yet in thirty minutes
I made her pertectly gentle, and safe for me or
any one to approach and handle. Courage and
confidence should be in proportion to the dan-
ger or safety shown.

The horse always reveals his intentions by
the actions of the ears and expression of the
eye, as plainly as if expressed in words. The
attention should be directed to the head for an
understanding of the intentions. If danger is
discernible, stand still. It will not do by the
expression of the features, or the falter of the
voice, to show that fear is felt. When a bad
horse must be encountered, especially if a
stallion, the eye must be kept on that of the
horse, and the wild must be inflexible.

Adroitness and firmness in diverting atten-
tion, will hold some horses of a dangerous
character in check, when the least expression
of weakness would precipitate a calamity.
Some horses, and especially stallions, can read
the feelings as plainly as could a man, and any
indication of fear would encourage them to
resistance. Whatever the feelings or sense of
danger, there must not be any evidence of fear
or danger exposed in the language or actions.
There is a nameless acuteness of perception
learned by long observation, that cannot be
explained, but which enables one at a glance
to see how far it is safe to approach and handle
horses of a dangerous character. Indeed I
cannot conceive of a duty or calling that re-
quires more acuteness of perception, or firm-
ness in directing and controlling the efforts.

In studying the laws governing this inter-
esting science of Equine Subjection and Edu-

23

- eation, many striking truths are forced upon
the mind. The wisdom displayed in adapting
the different domestic animals for the wants
and requirements of man-—the ease with which
they can be subdued and controlled, when sub-
jected to reasonable treatment, and the unerring
warning of accountability for every act of impru-
dence shown in their management, is singularly
clear and positive, reminding that it is not
only a duty, but economy, to correct the errors of
' imprudence and ignorance. This duty also
appeals powerfully to the reason and all the
higher faculties of the mind, thereby in its
true sense, in every way, inspiring to a higher
feeling of responsibility, and nobility of char-
acter.

ga@=The owner is at liberty if desired, to read the fore-
going part to others, it not being in any way an infringement
on the secresy imposed,

24

THE WILD COLT.

It must be borne in mind that the resistance
of the colt is induced by fear aud ignorance of
what is required, and if of a sensitive or. posi-
tive nature he will avoid and resist being
handled and restrained, often with the most
reckless tenacity; that when much resistance
is anticipated or evinced, the first thing to be
accomplished is to overcome such sensibility
and resistance sufficiently to warrant being
safely handled, and as each step in the educa-
tion is attempted there is suflicient control to
ensure safety and certainty of control. To en-
able such results, very often much prudence
and no ordinary skill is essential, and the |
reader must bear in mind that this must be de-
pendant upon the delicacy and prudence with
which the efforts are adapted, in the practice of
the Theory of Management taught.

The first requisite 1s to have a good room or
training yard, of about twenty-five by thirty or
forty feet. See that possible causes of injury
are removed, get the colt into this room or
enclosure quietly; if very wild, see that hens,
chickens, etc., are driven out. Say to your
friends, it is necessary to your success and a
condition of your instruction to be alone.

Your first object is to halter the colt. If not
very wild, you can easily work up to the
shoulders and head, and by scratching the
mane, etc., slip the halter on the head. But if

25

the colt is wild, this may be difficult if not
_ dangerous, and one of the most important
requisites is to guard against injury either to
yourself or horse, and at the same time accom-
plish your end most easily and surely.

Take an edging or pole ten or twelve feet
long, more or less, as you may happen to find,
or danger may require. Whittle up a few
strong chips with your knife, about an inch or
two from the end, towards the center, and about
seven or eight inches from this whittle up a
few more chips from the opposite direction, or
you can drive a couple of nails into the stick
about the same distance apart, the heads bent
a little outward from each other. Take a com-
mon rope halter with a running noose, pull the
part that slips through the noose back about
two feet. Now hang the part that goes over
the head upon the chips or nails on the end of
your pole nicely, with the hitching part held in
your hand with the stick. Your halter is now
so spread and hung upon the stick as to be
easily put upon the head. If the colt is not
excited he is easily attracted to the notice of
whatever is new to him. He has no way of
examining objects but by his nose, so he is
prompted to smell and feel of things that are
new and strange to him. Consequently. you
will find upon reaching out the halter guitly,
hung as above upon the end of your pole, he
will reach out to smell and feel of it, and while
he is gratifying his curiosity in this way, you
can easily raise the stick high enough to bring
the halter over and back of the ears, when by
turning the stick half way round, the halter
will drop from it upon the head. This may
frighten the colt a little and cause him to run

2

26

from you, but by doing so, the slack of the
part passing back of the jaw through the noose
will be pulled up, and the halter is on the head
securely.

Having your colt haltered, your object next
is to teach him to submit to its restraint.
Take position on a line with the shoulders,
but at some distance, and give a sharp quick
pull towards you, instantly giving loose on
the halter. You have the greatest advantage
from this position, and by adroitly following
this advantage, not attempting to pull when
there is an attempt to run back or from you,
he will soon by a few sharp pulls in this
way, learn to feel and submit to the force of
your power. Should you pull slow and steady,
he would learn to pull back upon you, and
might throw, himself down. This you will
avoid by letting loose the instant after you
pull. When there is a disposition to yield to
you, get on the opposite side and repeat the
pulling in the same manner, gradually alter-
nating from side to side, until the colt will
come around promptly.

Avoid pulling ahead, until there is prompt
submission to the restraint sideways. You can
then gradually pull a little on a line with the
body until the colt will follow readily.

If the colt is of a quick, prompt disposition
he will soon learn to submit to the restraint of
the halter; but if very young, or of a slow,
sulky disposition, unaccustomed to restraint,
great resistance is likely to be shown. If the
resistance is determined and reckless in char-
acter, resort at once to a thorough course of
subjection, which will soon compel obedience.
When there is submission, fix it by appealing

OF

at ounce to the affections. Rub the head gently
the way the hair lies, and scratch the mane
and tail until all excitement and irritation sub-
sides. The eye now becomes mild in expres-
sion, and there is apparent indifference to being
handled. A coarse voice forced into keen ‘or
exciting action, is wonderfully irritating, and
must by all means be held in check. Speak in
a natural tone, softened by a kind expression.
It is often necessary when the colt acts exci-
table and reckless, to repeat the lesson of lead-
ing two or three times. At all events the end
of perfect success must be accomplished.

Hitching.

After the colt will lead promptly, it is ad-
visable to teach him to stand,hitched. To
prevent the possibility of learning to pull on
the halter, take a piece of plow line or clothes
line, sufficiently long when doubled to be a
little shorter than the halter when hitched, tied
in the following manner. Find the center, and
put under the tail; bring both ends forward

28

over the back, twisting them three or four
times; then do the same forward of the
shoulders, pass them through the ring of the
halter, and tie to the manger, or post; hitch
in this way until there is no disposition in the
colt to pull loose. It is prudent to hiteh in
this way for two or three days, when the simple
halter can be depended upon with safety.

Teaching the colt to submit to the restraint
of the bit is next in importance.

Bitting,

Implies teaching the horse to submit the
mouth to the restraint of the bit, and at the
same time give the neck and head as great an
elevation as the form and temper will bear.
Whenever the reins are pulled upon, if this is
imperfectly done, the horse may acquire habits
of resistance to the control of the reins, as
exhibited by pulling too hard on the bit, pull-
ing on one rein, will not back, ete.

To accomplish this end most easily and per-
fectly, implies a restraint that would be both
flexible and positive. If the bitting is limited
to the restraint of a check, there being only
simple dead pressure upon the mouth, if
ehecked up at first tightly and too long, the
horse may learn the habit of resting the head
upon the bit to relieve the weariness of re-
straint, which would possibly teach the horse
to work into some one of the common habits
of resistance to the control of the bit.

To do this in a simple practical manner,
would seem to have been a great puzzle to
even skillful observant horsemen; yet nothing
can be more simple or easily done.

29

The first thing to be done is to accustom the
mouth to the bit. To do this, put on the colt
a common bridle, with a smooth snaffle bit.
Omit reins. Allow him to go as he pleases, in
a yard or stable, for a half an hour or more,
which may be repeated if thought necessary.
Next put on cireingle and reins. At first let
the reins be buckled so long as to bring but
little restraint upon the mouth. After being on
thirty or forty minutes, remove. At each repe-
tition buckle the reins shorter, until the head
is brought up as high as the form and temper
will bear. It seems needless to include details
of form, &c., of bitting harness. Any simple
arrangement of the kind will do, and the ar-
rangement is so well understood that an at-
tempt to give form and proportion, would not
only be unnecessary, but would not be heeded.

The object being to bring restraint upon the
bit that will hold the head up and back most
naturally and easily, without freedom in any
direction but in that of the reins. In one
respect should great care be used. Namely, in
having the throat-latch so loose as not to possi-
bly press on the throat when checked high,
and that the gag runners are well up near the
ears. .

If the reins are buckled short at first, there
is an unnatural violence of pressure and re-
straint upon the head, that may exite so posi-
tive a resistance as to cause the colt to rear up
and fall over backwards, which would almost
be certain to produce death. Again, if checked
up too long the restraint becomes so tiresome
as to induce a disposition of leaning or rest-
ing the head on the bit, which would very often
teach the habit of lugging down upon the bit,

50

when pulled upon by the reins. If however,
the colt should fight the restraint of the bit or
check, leave it on until the fit exhausts itself,
and there is a disposition to submit to its
restraint. |

The bitting bridle should not be left on very
long at a time. Short at first and gradually
longer as the mouth becomes accustomed to
and hardened by the bit. Simply .subjecting
the mouth to a course of checking in this way,
which is only dead pressure, neither teaches
submission to the restraint of the bit, or gives
the idea of submitting the head up and Bek
when pulled upon by the reins, only in a very
indirect manner. Hence, the disposition devel-
oped in many horses of lugging against the bit,
or throwing the head down on the breast, pull.
ing sideways, throwing the head forward, &e.,
some one of which peculiarities, of resistance
is developed to a greater or less degree on
account of this rude imperfect bitting. All
this trouble I easily overcame by the following
treatment.

After the usual course of bitting as under-
stood, take a piece of cord about eight or ten
feet in length, of the common sash or clothes
line size, but of as strong and flexible a texture
as possible. Tie one end into a large, hard
knot by forming a tie and putting the end
through twice aud draw up hard. Make
another tie about twenty inches from this knot.
Bring the knot end of the cord over the neck
and pull the knot through the tie, regulating
the size so that it will just fit the neck forward
of the shoulders. Pass the other end of the
cord through both rings of the bit, back of the
jaw, and pass it back through the loop around.

Bh

the neck, and draw down the slack. Stand in
front of the ‘head, holding the cord tightly
with both hands, giving a short quick pull
downwards, which will jerk the head back and
up. Repeat this little downward pull until the
head is given up and back freely when pulled
upon even slightly. Now, when the reins are
attached to the bit, when pulled upon, the
restraint is precisely as before, and the head is
submitted freely to their restraint.

The harness may now be put on, and the
next step should be to drive the colt around
until he can be guided right and left, and
stopped at will. There must be no effort to
make the colt back until he learns to drive well
to wagon, when the lesson of backing should
be taught. If the colt is made to back before
learning to drive, there is danger of the habit
being acquired of running back when confused.

If the colt is sensitive and it is desired to be
thorough, after bitting put on the harness care-
fully. Tie up the tugs and let the colt stand
or run about the yard for thirty or forty min-
utes. Now put on reins and gradually teach
him to go ahead, and be controlled to the right
or left, or to stop, as you please, by the restraint
of the bit. Too much should not be expected
of the colt at the commencement of this lesson.
First gradually urge him ahead by touching
the whip lightly over the hips, and as he moves
turn him to the right and left, until he will
move promptly, and turn in any direction freely
to the control of the reins. Would then teach >
him to stop and start at will, by urging him,
ahead by a touch of the whip, and stopping
him by pulling on the reins, being careful to
say “get up,” and “whoa,” as each require-

32

ment of going ahead or stopping is made,
until the colt learns to submit implicitly to
the control of the reins, and is quite handy to
drive in this way. This may require several
lessons of half or three quarters of an hour
each.

Kitching to Wagon,

If it is desired to drive the colt single, a
sulky is to be preferred at first. The shafts
should be be rattled and the colt made to see it
and hear it on every side. Then bring the
shafts over him gently, hold the bit by the left
hand firmly, with the right draw up the wagon
against the hind parts. If there is much fear
manifested, jerk upon the bit sharply. As
there is submission bring the shafts against the
horse with more force. When there is perfect
submission, attach the harness. Let him move
off slowly, almost as he pleases, on a straight
line. Then gradually as he will bear, learn
him to go to the right and left, to the control
of the reins. Great eare should be taken not
to drive the colt too much at first, and at no
time to the extreme of exhaustion. Neither
should the strength of the colt be taxed much
at first by driving up and down bill. Let him
move on a level road until aeeustomed to the
noise and restraint of the wagon. It must be
remembered, that the colt cannot become
handy and able to stand the fatigue of much
driving without time and patience. Let his
drives be moderate, both in gait and distance
at first. Abouta mile or two ona walk at first,
gradually inereasing the distance to as much
as he will bear without fatigue. After learning
to go nicely on a walk, let him trot a little,

53

radually letting him out faster and a little
onger, as nice smooth pieces of road give
opportunity, but would be very particular to
confine these little bursts of speed at first to
the limits of a few rods, and never to the
extent of exhaustion. Let him dash outa
short distance, then gradually pull to a walk,
and speak encouragingly, just asif talking to a
boy. After a while let him out again, perhaps
pushing a trifle faster and Jonger, but not to
the extreme of breaking over. Do not by any
means expect that you have a trotter because,
perhaps, your colt is a good mover, and if a
good stepper it should be additional reason for
prudence. There is usually too much anxiety
to try a colt’s speed and bottom. He is pushed,
overdone and spoiled, perhaps before he knows
how to trot, or is grown to his full strength.

A colt must not be pushed too much in
educating to harness. It is evident that he
cannot learn to submit quietly to the irritation
and excitement of harness and wagon, or drive
placidly like an old horse. Rather let him
grow into doing all this easily and naturally,
being careful in the first place to overcome all
fear of things touching or striking against the
hind parts of the body. This lesson of over-
coming fears of such causes, should be very
thorough, and as each progressive step is
attempted, see that that object is always attained
and the driving will be a trifling task, though
of course requiring patience and care.

Double Driving.

It is generally the custom to drive the colt
at first in harness by the side of a gentle horse
2* 7

-

34

accustomed to harness. When this is designed,
the colt should be put on the off side, and to
guard against danger, a short strap with a ring
on it, should be put around the fore-foot below
the fetlock. Fasten the end of a piece of rope
or strap of about eight or ten feet: long to the
ring. Pass the other end over the belly-band
of the harness to the wagon. The strap is to
be held with the reins to insure the utmost
control, should the colt become frightened and
attempt to break away or kick. The whip
should be held over the old horse, to keep him
up to the movements of the colt in starting,
but the gait should be kept moderate.

In breaking the colt to drive double, after
driving well on the off side, he should be
reversed to the near side, there being less
danger of becoming frightened from getting
into or out of the wagon, or of seeing things
while being passed to or frém the wagon, by
being more from view on the off side. To
lessen the probabilities of fear and resistance,
the off side is preferable at first. The limited
understanding of the horse seems to require
‘that the same impressions and understanding
should be given of the character and appear-
ance of things forced to his attention on both
sides. If not, when driven alone, or on the
near side, he may become suddenly frightened
by the moving of a robe, umbrella, the rustling
of a lady’s dress, etce., from that side. (See
Causes of Fear. ;

Let the driving be moderate, and the loading
not heavy, and by all means if the colt is of
a sensitive or nervous temperament, the great-
est mildness must be observed. Loud ‘yelling’
or cracking of whip should not be permitted,

35

A little imprudence of this kind is often the
cause of very serious mischief with inexpe-
rienced young horses. |

Backing.

After learning to drive well, teach the idea of
backing by pulling on the reins steadily, say-
ing “back.” If there is resistance give a short
raking pull, which will move the colt by the
pain and force of the bit backward, repeating
until there is prompt obedience. If there is
much resistance put on breaking bit, which
will soon enable submission. |

Riding.

If the colt is not of a very bad character
there will be no resistance to being rode after
the first lesson of subjection. If there is,
attach a short strap to a piece of rope to the off
fore foot, throwing the other end over the
back. Take a short hold of this strap with
the right hand, while the left grasps the near
rein of the bridle firmly. As the head is pulled
around, the horse is made to step sideways, and
the instant the foot is relaxed itis held up by

56

the restraint of the right hand on the strap,
which is instantly drawn upon. The colt is
now on three legs and unable to resist. Jump
lightly on the back, press the feet against the
belly and flanks. As there is submission
given the foot, take a firm hold of the reins,
which should be held short. Move the colt
forward, and as there is an indication of resist-
ance pull upon the strap and reins, which will
disable and disconcert the horse from farther
effort to resist being rode. If the colt will not
move forward, request an assistant to lead
him by the head for a short time. So long as
there is any indication of resistance keep on
the strap. One thorough lesson is usually
sufficient, though some colts may require a
repetition of the lesson.

When it is desired to mount, let the left hand
rest lightly on the mane a little forward of the
withers, holding the reins between the thumb
and fingers. Throw the right hand lightly on
the back, the body close to the horse. Now
spring lightly upward and forward. The in-
stant of doing so, let the right hand glide
forward until the elbow strikes the back bone,
when the weight of the body is to be instantly
balanced upon the right arm, which will enable
sufficient strength to make the spring con-
tinuous, and the body is easily brought into a
sitting posture. This is a slight undertaking,
and a little practice will enable gbility to mount
the highest of horses with apparently wonderful
ease. To mount on a saddle, stand by the side
a little back of the stirrup, the face exactly
towards the horse’s head. Take a short hold
of the reins between -the fingers, grasping into
the mane at the same time, put the left foot

34

into the stirrup, throw the right hand over the
saddle and press it against the off side, throw-
ing the weight of the body on the left foot,
and you can lift yourself into the saddle easily.

Mandling the Feet.

If the colt is of an ordinary good disposition
this can be done without resorting to any
means. Stand well up to the shoulder, put the
left hand on the shoulder, (scapula.) Press
forward gently, which will relax the muscles
controlling the leg, with the right instantly
grasp the foot below the fetlock and lift it up,
removing the left hand and bring under the
foot to aid the right hand or wholly liberat-
ing the right hand. To handle the hind feet,
let. the right hand glide gently from the
shoulders back to the hip. At the instant it
passes the point of the hip bring the left for-
ward upon the hip. While doing this the right
hand is being glided down the leg gently, until
it strikes the tetlock, when the left hand is
pressed firmly against the body at the point
stated, which will relax the limb as before, and
the foot is easily brought up by the right. At
the instant of raising with the right, the left is
lowered and passed down the limb on the back.
part of the fetlock. Or the foot can be raised*
and lowered a few times with the right hand,
while the left balances the body by pressing
against the hip until there is perfect submission.

If there is resistance take up the fore-foot,
request an assistant to hold it up for you while
he at the same time holds the colt by the
halter or bridle. Tie the end of a rope or strap
around the hind foot above the fetlock, at the -

Fo

ac
instant of doing which Jet the hand glide along
to the opposite part until six or eight feet from
the foot. At the same time request the forward
foot to be let loose, the assistant holding by the
halter. Now pull upon the strap, which will
bring the foot forward, and at the instant of
attempting to kick let go, and so repeat until
the foot is submitted to the restraint of strap.
Then slip behind and pull the foot back, and as:
before, yielding at each effort to kick, let go,
- until the foot is submitted freely. Now take
the foot from the control of the strap to the
hand and handle gently.

If there is very determined resistance, tie
the end of your long strap around the neck,
near the shoulders, pass the other end back
between the fore legs, around the hind foot,
but under the strap around the neck and draw
up on it, at the same time holding him by the
bridle or halter. The colt may be frightened
and jump to get clear of the restraint. Should
he act very much frightened, slack up on the
strap until the foot is almost back to its natural
position. Then as he will bear, again pull a
little shorter, at the same time pulling him
round in a circle by the head, until he ceases
struggling to get the foot loose. You may now
pull the foot farther forward, and hold it as
before, until he will stand quietly. Now step
back a little and pass the hand down the hind
leg. Slap the hand upon the leg a little until
there is no resistance, then take it in the hands,
If there is no resistance, undo the end of the
strap and allow the foota little more freedom ;
at the same time while holding the foot by the
strap, pass the hand from the hip down the leg
quietly, rubbing and caressing until able to
take it in the hands. |

39

Handle the opposite legs in the same man-
ner until there is perfect submission. There is
a natural tendency to do nothing more as soon

as the feet can be handled, and if there is

trouble to shoe afterwards it is not assigned to
the real cause. It must be borne in mind, that
in all cases to insure perfect submission, the
feet should be repeatedly handled, in the stable
or wherever kept, until there is no fear or -
resistance manifested. This end may not
always be accomplished by handling once.
The character of the colt 1s sometimes so
sensitive and positive that as much depends
upon handling a few times gently after forcing
submission, as in the treatment that may be
necessary at first.

Year,

Directly or indirectly, is the principal cause of
danger and resistance in horses, and to success-
fully educate youug horses requires that there
should be perpetual precaution in preventing
such excitement from any cause as would
induce fear of any object orsound. The horse’s
mind or nervous system is so liable to be
thrown out of balance by sudden causes of great
fear, that. very much of their successful man-
agement must be dependent upon the tact
or prudence of preventing such consequences.
One of the inmost remarkable features of this
peculiarity too, is the persistence there is in
resisting the object or cause exciting a feeling
of danger. Thus a robe, umbrella, or other
object once exciting an apprehension of danger
is likely to become a cause of the greatest terror.
When there is the least anticipation of an exci-

40

table imagination, the utmost sense of control
should be fixed upon the understanding, so as
to lessen such a disposition, and be at the same
time able to force obedience to the extreme
necessary. The great difficuly in the man-
agement of horses predisposed to sensitiveness,
or those becoming afraid of some object or
causes with which their use requires contact is
want of suflicient power-to coerce. I would
not imply that gentleness is not an important
essential; but that it must be to the mind of
the horse the actuating motive, while the fear
of resistance must be so fixed upon the mind
that the disposition to resist restraint is neu-
tralized. This is the point to make first if
possible, (which is seen to be now easily done.)
Then gently and carefully bring to the under-
standing a clear conviction of the harmless
character of the object or sound, whatever it 1s.
If the colt is wild and sensitive, the first step
to be taken is to subject him to a course ef
subjection. If the habit is established, if very
bad, it becomes an absolute necessity to do so.

There is in some colts a natural predispo-
sition to extreme sensibility and fear of the
most ordinary causes of irritation. A small
brain, indicated by a narrow forehead, or a
clear open restless eye, indicates such predis-
position. |

But we see too that colts of the very best
disposition are easily spoiled by ignorant im-
prudent treatment.

It is very remarkable too that many colts of
the most sensitive and excitable character, by
one or two lessons of careful thorough treat-
ment, become as gentle and obedient as old
gentle horses. I could refer to very many
interesting proofs of this. One of the most

41

marked in my recent experience, (Oct. 1868,)
to which I will refer, was a six year old horse
owned by A. Smawxey, of Petroleum Centre,
Pa. This horse was of so remarkably wild
and desperate a character that he was known
by the name of “Wild Pete.” He would
scringe and jump at the least touch or appear-
ance of anything strange; he would not stand
to be cleaned, could not be harnessed, and to
attempt putting him in shafts would excite
the utmost desperation, jumping, and kicking
clear of restraint at all hazards. He was one
of the most desperate acting horses of the kind
I ever saw. Indeed; anything touching him
behind, even a:touch of a whip, would make
bim jump and kick regardless of consequences.
Yet, after subjecting him to two or three
energetic lessons, of less than an hour each, I
could drive him to my buggy with perfect
safety, and could not be made to kick or resist
control. So perfectly docile did he become,
that he was let for driving in the livery, and
has proved a very superior, safe carriage horse.
Asarule however, constitutionally timid horses
yield slowly, and require careful as well as
thorough treatment. ;
Colts of the gentlest and apparently most
fearless disposition, are otten made so nervous
and excitable by being once greatly frightened
in some way, as to become of the most nervous
dangerous character, or is insane just so far as
the cause and position of the excitement in the
first place. This is illustrated by the number
of otherwise gentle young horses that are
frightened at some particular object, or cannot
be driven in harness. > When the cause is traced
out it will be found in every instance to have
been the result of being frightened or excited

42

from some cause. Sometimes the most trifling
causes will derange the horse in this way.
Even the accidental moving of a piece of white
paper will sometimes so excite a previously
docile colt, as to be afterwards in consequence
a flighty, unreliable animal, always on the alert
to jump, and possibly kick at the least appear-
ance of such an object. Incidents of this kind
are common to the observation of every one in
the least observant of the peculiarities of
equine nature. Now unless the colt is made
perfectly obedient and docile, to bear handling
and the restraint of harness, and the rattle
of the wagon, this being suddenly frightened
at some imaginary or trifling cause, is at
any moment possible. The first object of the
efterts, should be to see that every step of
progress is made so thoroughly as to preclude
such a possibility, which can be easily done by
making the colt familiar and submissive to the
restraint of the bit, and fearless of the contact
and rattle of the wagon, &c., before hitching.

‘The great difficulty with most people is, they
are too harsh and precipitate. They under-
take to do, and require more than they have
power to enforce, or than the horse is able to
understand.

In educating the colt, the rule should be to
do and require only so much as he will bear
and understand, by commencing slowly, and
gently repeating, and following up one advan-
tage after aiother, to the end of inspiring
entire disregard of the causes of excitement.
The horse’s principal sense of understanding is
by seeing and feeling with the nose. This is
his meaus of examining things new and strange
to him. If in approaching the colt you were
to reach out the hand gently, he would smell

45

and feel of it with his nose. Every other
means of understanding seems to be subordinate
to this, consequently in handling the colt we
should always commence at the nose, then
gradually work back as there is submission.
The same care should be taken to overcome
fear of being handled about the feet, etc.
Commence at an insensible part and work to
the sensitve. In educating to harness, the
same prudence should be exercised by bringing
the object to the nose, or leading the horse up
to the object and allowing him to feel and
examine it in his own way.

We must be satisfied with our ability to
guard against and overcome these difficulties
of fear as we can, or as circumstances and
opportunity will offer. The great point of
success is in guarding the horse from being
roused to a great sense of danger from any
cause, and gradually as he will bear, force the
mind to an understanding of the innocent
character of the object or cause of excitement.
Familiarity with any kind of danger limits the
sensibilities, and this should be the primary
object of the efforts to do, after insuring the
greatest control possible over the animal. The
better to convey an understanding of my
meaning I will give the details to overcome
fear of the most common objects usually
objectionable to horses, which will indicate the
treatment for anything else not specified.

A Robe.

While held under careful restraint, let the
robe be brought up gently to the colt’s. nose.
After smelling and feeling of it in his own way
until satisfied, rub it gently against the head,

44

neck and body the way the hair lies, as he will
bear. Then stand off a little and throw it
across the back, over the neck and head, grad-
ually stepping farther, until you can throw the
robe upon him as you please.

An Umbrella or Parasol.

While holding the colt by the halter or .bri-
dle, as may be necessary, bring the umbrella
to his nose gently, rub it against the head,
neck and body, and as he will bear, spreading
it a little, repeating the process of rubbing,
and so continue gaining little by little, until
you can raise the umbrella over the head, and
pass it around the animal as you please, without
exciting resistance.

Sound of a Gun.

First, commence by snapping caps a short
distance from the horse, gradually, as he will
bear, approaching nearer, until you can snap
caps while the gun is resting upon the back,
over the head, ete. Then putin a little powder,
and at each repetition increase the charge until
you ean fire off a heavy load without exciting
fear.

Railivoad Cars.

Let the animal see them at rest, then grad-
ually lead or drive him up to them, even to
smelling them with his nose. Now, as you
have an opportunity, drive the horse around
while they are moving, working up nearer as
you ean, and at the same time turning him

45

around so that he can see and hear them from
different directions. This lesson should be
often repeated, being careful not to crowd be-
yond what the colt will easily bear, until they
cease to attract his serious attention.

Objects Exciting Fear While Riding or Driving.

Should the horse show fear of a stone or
stump, or anything of the kind, he will natu-
rally stop instantly and stare at the object in the
most excited manuer. Should the cause of fear
be great and sudden, he may attempt to turn
round and run away. This is to be guarded
against, by sitting well forward on the seat,
and taking a short hold of the reins, at the
same time speaking calmly and encouragingly
to the horse. Bear in mind, the horse has a
great advantage over you, that his excitement
is liable to precipitate his whole strength against
you at the least sense of freedom, or additional
cause of excitement; that once resisting in this
position, he will try to do so again at all haz-
ards, under like circumstances.

Speak encouragingly to the horse, but keep
a close watch upon his actions. In a short
time the tension of his alarm will not only be
perceptibly relieved, but he will become calmer
and almost disregard the objeet. Then
drive nearer as he will bear, exercising the
same patience and care, At each effort to get
nearer, the horse will become apparently as
much frightened as at first. But keep pushing
a little at a time in this way, as the horse will
bear, until you can drive up to the object or by
it, and you not only leave no bad impression —

46

upon the mind, but gradually overcome the
disposition to become frightened.

Sometimes a horse will dislike a wheelbarrow,
baby wagon, turkeys, etc., but the treatment is
the same. When the excitement is not so great
as to endanger successful resistance, and the
horse is disposed ‘‘ play off or soldier,’’ it may
be advisable to apply the whip a little sharply,
but this is to be avoided when it is seen the
resistance is wholly induced by fear, and the
animal is not lazy.

Some horses while driven to carriages, will
not bear the noise and excitement of other.
horses being driven up behind. This is prinei-
pally on account of the horse’s inability to see
and understand the cause of the excitement, or
it may be owing to the fault of the driver.
Some one drives: up rapidly behind, perhaps
wishes to ‘go by,’”’ to prevent which the colt
is hallooed at and whipped up to prevent such
aresult. This may be repeated a few times,
and the consequence is, if a spirited horse, the
habit is acquired of rushing ahead to avoid the
punishment expected under such circumstances,
and very often too a: horse is forced into this
habit by being run into from behind.

Blinders.

It must be rememberd that the blinders in
general use so cover up the eyes as to make it
impossible to see things plainly sidewwise, and
wholly so from behind, must tend to this result,
and certainly we are convinced of this, when
we see that to overcome the animal’s fear of
any object, the first and most obvious point is
to induce an understanding of its appearance

47

and character. Blinders are admissible only
when there is a desire to conceal the defects of
a large head, and to cause a naturally lazy
horse to drive steadily, by preventing his ability
to see when the whip is about to be applied.

Must See the Object from Different Positions.

Itis one of the peculiarities of the horse to
understand and be reconciled to an object or
cause of excitement only from the position and
circumstances brought to his notice. This
.seems to be on account of the horse’s reason-
ing powers being so limited, as to be unable to
retain the same understanding of the object
beyond the position from which it is brought
to notice.

Every progressive change of position requir-
ing almost the same care and patience of that
preceding. For example, if in teaching a horse
to become regardless of an umbrella, it were
shown only from the near side, pon carryin
it to the off side, would inspire nearly as ‘doe
fear as at first from the near side, or there may
be an aversion to some particular object, or
resistance may be inspired only under certain
circumstances. You may succeed in getting a
colt gentle to be rode from the near side, but
upon attempting to do so from the off side,
would in all probability be resisted. A gentle
horse upon being hitched to a top buggy for
the first time, upon getting a glimpse of the
top over the blinders, became so alarmed as to
defy all control, kicked clear of the carriage
and ran away, was, as usual, gentle and fearless
to an open buggy, but would not bear a top.
A fine young stallion, perfectly regardless of

48

a locomotive, and apparently of everything
else, was so frightened by the sound and ap-
pearance of an engine suddenly from behind,
which was a position he never saw it from
before, that he kicked himself clear of the
wagon and got away, and would thereafter not
only kick in harness upon hearing the least
rattle or unusual sound, but would not beara
locomotive. The impulse of fear first induced
by the engine prompted the kicking, which
brought the feet in contact with the cross-piece
of the shaft, which increased his terror, and
associating thereby the wagon with the engine,
its rattling nose became a cause of equal repug-
nance as that of the engine or cars.

A high-spirited but gentle mare was taken
toa smith shop. The smith struck her sharply
with his hammer two or three times, for not
standing and submitting the foot to his satis-
faction, which so frightened the mare that
she would not bear any one having a leathern
apron on to go near her, or allow her feet to
be handled. Have frequently found instances
of horses being gentle single, but vicious and
unmanageable double; and gentle double, but
not single, ete. |

These peculiarities imply the necessity, as
experience proves, of forcing an understanding
of the object from every side, and in every
manner it is usually seen in use.

If, for instance, a horse is afraid of an um-
brella while in harness, he may be taught to
care nothing about it out of harness, but if not
taught to feel and understand its character in
harness would be apt to be as much frightened
at it in that position, as if he knew nothing
about it.

49

This seems to puzzle many well-meaning men,
and is often the cause of much disappointment.

A horse that is afraid of an umbrella, is
brought forward to illustrate the management
of such habits. In a short time the horse will
bear the umbrella over and around him in any
manner, without seeming to care anything about
it: The owner is pleased with the belief that
his horse is broken, when in harness at some
future time, he raises an umbrella behind the
animal, and is astonished to find him almost as
bad as ever, and he naturally condemns the
instructions as of no account, and indeed this
would seem to be eorrect. But when it is seen.
in the first place that it is often necessary to
repeat the treatment, that expecting the animal
to be broken of the habit by a single indirect
lesson, only tends to defeat success. For
without ability to control the horse, every
attempt to force upon him the object of
aversion, only inspires greater resistance, be-
cause taught to a still greater degree to resist
control, and a sense of freedom always tends to
increase the animal’s fear of the object. Now
the efforts of the owner to control the horse
directly in a position of so great disadvantage,
may produce exactly this result, and then from
an ignorance of the cause of failure, it is
believed impossible to make the horse gentle.

The lesson must be repeated so long as may
be necessary to the end of perfect success, or
the horse once excited is liable to drift bagk to
being almost as bad as at first.

There is a very serious misconception of the
theory of overcoming fear. The common be-
lef is that a horse will not care about an
object after he is once made to understand its

3 |

50

harmless nature. This was the understanding
taught by Rarey, and this is the idea prevalent
among those who would be authority on the
subject. If this were true, after a horse was
onee reconciled to an object of fear, and sub-
mitted its presence over and around him, he
would not care anything about it afterwards,
But everyday experience proves this reasoning
to be fallacious. In the first place we see that
a horse that would not care anything about an
object or sound, after being worked hard,
would be likely after a few days or weeks of
idleness to be extremely excitable and dan-
gerous. Now, according to such a theory, the
horse after being once made to understand the
innocent character of the object, he would care
nothing more about it; yet we see the horse
does not prove reliable, and is not in fact of
the same character after a period of idleness.
These facts must be kept in mind. The at-
tention should always be on the alert to the
degree there is discovered predisposition to
excitement and fear. | .

Safety Shafts.

Get three seantlings or poles of good tough
timber of about four inches in diameter, and
fourteen feet in length each. Put down two
of these, so as to bring them two feet apart at
one end and thirteen at the other. Now lay
the other pole across on the ends of the others
widest apart, about six inches from the ends.
Mark and halve them together. Then bore a
hole through both pieces at each corner so
‘ fitted, and bolt them firmly together. To fix
the other ends, get a piece of tire iron, four

bl

feet long, and bend it in the form of a breast
collar, the rounding side in, so as to have each
end extend back on the inside of the poles ten
or twelve inches, and fit up nicely to the wood;
have two holes punced or drilled through each
end of the iron, by which to bolt it firmly to
the poles. Then drive staples into or near the
ends.

To finish the other ends, take two pieces of
iron about a foot each in length and an inch in
diameter, flat one end and punch through two
holes. Work down the other ends to a sharp
point; bend down the ends so sharpened about
six inches, in the form of a half circle; bolt
these irons under the ends of the poles, the
sharp ends pointing down and back, forming
dogs, something like those on the ends of sleigh
runners, to prevent the sleigh running back.
Now harness your horse into this arrangement,
taking the precaution to wind the irons across
the ends with an old piece of cloth, and
strengthening the harness if at all likely to
break, by tying a piece of rope around with a
piece of breeching, and around the body as
may be thought necessary. Though perhaps,
the best way to hold the shafts, as we call
them, nicely up to the neck, is by bringing a
strong rope or strap over the neck, and fasten-
ing around the iron near the wood. This isa
very good means by which to drive unmanage-
able horses towards such causes of fear as cars,
&e. Hitch the horse into the shafts, let the
reins run back through the lugs. Get behind
and drive around, touching up with the
whip, as may be necessary. If the horse is
valuable, and it is desired to take unusual pre-
caution in overcoming fear of cars, or any

52

other greatly exciting cayse to drive up to or.
by, the shafts are gaod. It is impossible for
the horse to run back or sideways, or rear over
back. The horse is almost helpless so far as
being able to run back or sideways.

Running Away.

This habit may be induced by 4 great variety
of causes—principally by becoming frightened
in some way, though often by the horse learn-
ing to pull against the bits so hard as to defy
control, and is therefore at the least cause of
irritation made to pull ahead and run away.
When actuated by fear, the resistance is usually
so sudden and violent as to force a degree of
resistance to the restraint of the bit there is
not power to prevent or control. Sometimes,
too, the horse will spring sideways, or turn
around in doing this, and will so learn the trick
that at the least appearance of danger there is
ajump forarun. All this resistance it is seen
results from defective training of the mouth,
and is virtually surmounted when able to force
so great a degree of control by the bit as to
break up all disposition to resist restraint when
excited. The use of the four ring bit will
usually enable driving the horse safely. If the
animal is of a bad character, put through a
course of subjection, until the sense of fear is
overcome—at the same time see that the con-
trol of the mouth is made sufficiently positive
to ensure certainty of restraint by the reins.
Then hitch to wagon, making the horse stop
repeatedly and promptly to the least restraint
of the reins, until there is no disposition to
resist when subjected to the greatest excite-

58

ment. It is presumed the reader understands
this treatment sufficiently to make an expla-
nation of details needless.

Turning Around,

If the horse turns around, drive first with
harness, whip up sharply, then make stop,
always pulling in the opposite direction from
that the horse usually turns, until there is not
Only the most prompt obedience to the com-
mands in going ahead, but the head is sub-
mitted readily right or left, or stop, as may be
required. Sometimes the habit is contracted
of pulling so hard on the bit as to resist control.
In this case all that is necessary to do is to
train the mouth once or twice with breaking
bit, or use four ring bit, and the habit will be
broken up. If one rein is pulled upon, pull
sharply on the opposite rein, and repeating at
each indication of such a purpose, until the
head is yielded freely and evenly.

In reviewing the common causes of this
habit, we see that two objects must govern the
efforts. First: To overcome or neutralize the
exciting cause of resistance, usually some cause
of fear. Second: To make the mouth perfectly
submissive to the most delicate restraint of the
bit. It being essential that the exciting cause
should be removed, while the power to control
resistance must be increased.

I will in this connection add, that there is no
part of the training of horses which should be
done more thoroughly, or tested more carefully
than this of teaching a proper submission of the
mouth to the bit. Yet I will venture to assert
iidné is miore imperfectly or ignorantly at-

4

on

tempted, and that the more experienced and
intelligent of horsemen should regard doing this
difficult, when there is so much to indicate to
the most ordinary observer the method of doing
it with ease and certainty, seems strange. And
yet perhaps, this is not so strange, since this
has been very much of a puzzle to do easily,
and really in its true aspect shows more true sci-
ence than can be illustrated in any other feature
of my treatment, since upon this must depend
ultimately the readiness and suecess with which
the horse ean be guided and contnelled 10
harness,

It is essential in training a horse well to the
bit, that the idea is given correctly of submit-
ting the head up and back when pulled upon.
Second, that the horse should be made to under-
stand exactly the meaning of every signal of
guidance and restraint. In training the mouth,
the exact idea ean be conveyed by being partie-
ular in repeating the same idea of reproof, by
pulling sharply whenever there is an intention
of pulling hard. There is soon not only
prompt obedience to restraint of the bit, but
there is no intention or confidence to resist
control. Now, how cana horse understand the
object of such restraint, if there is not unifor-
mity of action and language. Yet most people
talk with their horses in the most careless
manner. If there is an intention of approach-
ing a horse, the usual word is whoa. In driving
when it is desired to make the horse go slow,
whoa is the usual word, and the consequence
is the animal does not know what is meant. by
whoa. Every action and word should have a
special meaning, and they should never conflict,
that the understanding may not be confused.

ay)

Whoa should be an imperative command to
stop. ‘To go slower requires the use of some
other word. ven every motion of the whip
should have a special meaning. If the horse is
managed with care in this way, he becomes
almost a machine, that yields Lapenastan to the
slightest touch or word of command.

Wreecuntnhonge Boneks.

To break up this habit, there must be estab-
lished a thorough fear of the whip, so as to
induce going ahead when commanded. Put
on harness, and tie the tugs into the rings of
the breeching rather short. Drive around with
the reins, giving a sharp cut with a good bow
whip around the legs once in a while, if not
prompt. As the horse learns to spring ahead
when commanded, pull a little on the lines,
gradually repeating, until he will pull quite
hard on the bit to go ahead. Make this as
thorough as possible. In driving, repeat and
carry out this, going ahead promptly, whipping
up sharply once in a while if necessary.

The main point to make with horses of this
character, is to create a thorough fear of the
whip. To do this well while driving with har-
ness, whip around the hind legs sharply, until
the horse will spring ahead “promptly when
commanded. Now, attach to wagon and
gradually work up ‘with whip until there is
prompt obedience. The foot strap may be put
on if there is any possible danger of the horse
running back when hitehed. A mueh surer
though more complicated way, is to use the
safety shafts.

56

Kicking in Harness.

This is apparently the most dangerous and
difficult habit to overeome to which horses are
subject; yet itis a habit that yields readily to
my treatment, but requires care and thorough-
ness, and a large share of common sense in
determining how much must be done, and
when to stop. This cannot be learned by any
fixed rule, since there is such a great difference
of extreme shown in this habit, that 1t 1s not
safe to venture a limit of what and how much
must be done. [I have often broken horses of
kicking, of apparently the worst character, in
twenty or thirty minutes. Then again, one
scarcely confirmed in the habit may require very
much more time, and a few extreme cases, of
apparently a mild character when not excited,
that would call out all my resources for hours,
to make the subject yield safely to eontrol. I
broke a horse in Maine of the worst character,
of kicking, by a few pulls upon the war bridle.
At all events, the owner informed me months
afterwards, that the animal remained perfeetly
docile. This horse would kick at any one or
any thing. On the contrary, I found a horse
in Mississippi, perfectly gentle to ride or
handle, would only kick when to wagon, yet
was the most terribly persistent to kick when
im harness, [ ever saw, or ever expect to see.
All ordinary treatment was only as play to this
horse. Circumstances made it necessary to
break up the habit, and I felt compelled to do
so, and sueceeeded only after three lessons.
Never did a horse resist more bravely, but I
succeeded in making the animal so gentle as to
submit the wagon against the heels going down

57
hill, and was driven by me a week after being
broken, in the presence of a large concourse of
people, proving safe and gentle afterwards.
Breaking of kicking, as with most other
habits, requires being thorough in what is
attempted. If there is more fear than willful-
ness, the fear must’ be thoroughly overcome.
If based upon willfulness, that must be mast-
ered at any hazard. In either case, put through
a careful but thorough course of subjection,
exciting resistance by rubbing’a stick of some
kind against and between the legs until there
is no resistance; now put on harness and break-
ing bit, compel perfect submission to its re-
straint. Let the hind legs be touched as before,
and at each indication of resistance, punish
sharply; with the reins back the animal against
a rail fence or anything convenient. If there
is perfect submission back into to the shafts of
the wagon, or bring the shafts over the back
gently. This is. a step requiring much delicacy
and firmness. Stand at the left shoulder,
grasping the rein near the bit firmly, and as the
shafts are brought forward, and the cross-piece
comes in contact with the legs, if there is much
sensibility shown, give him a sharp quick jerk
upon the reins, which will at once disconecert
the horse, and at the same time throw the head
so high as to make it difficult for him to kick.
Force this point well, until the contact of the
wagon’ is borne, when the harness may be
attached. Now drive around gently, stopping
and starting repeatedly, which will enable an
understanding of what the horse will bear. If
there is no indication of serious resistance,
follow up by driving around, until there is
perfect submission. At each repetition of be-

3

58

ing hitched to a wagon for a few days, let the
horse be backed against the eross-piece until it
is borne.

This precaution of testing repeatedly is abso-
lutely essential, to prevent and overcome any
growing sensibility or confidence that would
excite kicking, until there is not discovered
any disposition to persist in the habit,

If this will not do, repeat the lesson of sub-
jection which the reader has been shown, an
if there is any doubt about submitting to the
shafts without danger of an accident, get two
poles about twelve feet each in length. Lay
them down on the ground so that the small
ends will be about twenty-two inches apart,
and the large ends are six or seven feet apart.
Next get a piece of pole of the same size, lay
across and tie firmly to the side poles just far
enough from the forward ends so when the
horse is hitched in, the tugs are tied to this
eross-piece with pieces of cord. Tliteh to this,
dive around, repeatedly stopping and backing
the horse against the cross-piece, until there is
ag By submission. This driving in poles may

e repeated if thought necessary, remembering
that it is absolutely necessary to make every
step sure before the next is attempted.

A. great advantage of repeating the lesson is,
that the sensibility of the mouth is so greatly
increased, that the most plucky. horse will
scarcely dare resist the bit after being punished
severely a few times. If the horse yields, but
is doubtful or appears touchy and_ sensitive
once in a while, you may be able to make
your point by putting on the foot strap, as
directed under that head.

It must be borne in mind that much depends

59

in making subjection thorough, as in the
peculiarity of treatment, that no matter how
good or proper the treatment, the horse
must be made to yield unconditionally, or
failure is not only probable, but almost certain.

If however, the horse will not yield to*this
treatment, it will be necessary to resort to more
complicated and slower treatment, by which to
counteract resistance, with more severe reproof.

Kicking Straps.

To do this, have made four straps, like com-
mon hame straps. ‘Two long enough to buckle
around the hind legs above the gambrels; and
two a little shorter, 80 as to be in proportion
to buckle around just below the gambrel. The
straps should be an inch and a quarter wide,
good thick leather, and the buckles should be
heavy. Now have made two D’s just twice as
long as the straps are wide. This D should
have the straight part a little rounding, and
the corners not quite to a sharp pqgint. Puta
long and short strap on each D, apd buckle
them around the hind legs of the horse. The
long strap above and the short one below the
gambrel, bringing the D in front of the leg.
These we designate KICKING STRAPS.

Put a strong well-fitting rope halter on the
head, tie a strong two inch ring on the end of
the hitching part, which should be of a length
to extend between the fore-legs, over and just
back of the belly band. Then take a piece of
strong manilla rope, long enough to extend
from the ring on the end of the halter back to
each hind leg. Pass the end of this through
the ring to the center, and tie each end care-

60

fully into the D’s on the straps, the whole so
arranged in length that the horse can travel
easily rand naturally. Now as soon as the horse
kicks, the most severe pnnishment must result
upon the nose. No quarter is to be given
until there is perfect submission. The harness
may be put on after the horse ceases kicking,
and drive around as before. These straps
should be kept on until there is no disposition
to kick.

If the mouth is hard, use breaking bit and
force as before, with the reins. until there is
perfect submission. The horse is to be treated
with the utmost kindness when he yields.
Bear in mind this rule must not be disregarded of
addressing and winning the co-operation of the
affections as soon as there is submission. ‘The
foot strap may be used as a precaution wher
hitched to wagon, until submission is made
sure.

If the mouth is naturally sensitive and the
horse is docile, but quick and irritable, a differ-
ent policy must be adopted, as the horse may
drive gently for hours or even days, and yet
may kick at a real or fancied cause of annoy-
ance. The previous treatment would not work
well with such, as they soon become cautious by
throwing the head down when there is such an
intention, and there is not persistence enough
to make reproof sufficiently par to prevent
the habit.

The ovERDRAW caBcK will now be just the
thing. But eare must be taken to apply it right,
or'there ‘will be cause for disappointment in its
use. The object is now to simply, disable the
horse from his purpose at the least attempt to
kick, which we can easily do, especially while

61

in single harness. Probably the best way to do
this, is as follows:

Get a small steel bit and hang it loosely above
the driving bit in the bridle. Put the bridle on
the head, now provide yourself with a fine,
strong piece of hemp or cotton cord, about three-
eighths of an inch in diameter and sixteen feet
in length. Cotton plow line is just the thing,
or that kept at hardware stores for hanging
windows, will do. Put the center of this cord
back of the ears, run the ends back through the
rings of the small bit and through the gag run-
ners, which should be close up to the ears, (see
cut). Pass them now through the terrets and
back through a ring which must be attached as
far back upon the crouper as possible, and at-
tach the ends to the shafts on each side of the
hips. At first this check should be drawn short
to bring the head as high as the horse can bear.
The head is now not only high, but the least
effort to*kick must disable from such a purpose
by drawing the check tighter, thereby disabling

62

the horse from his purpose. As there is less
disposition manifested to kick, give more free-
.dom to the head. When the animal proves
safe, change and use the common check rein, at
first rather short. A nicely rounded strap may
be used instead of the cord. I would here aad,
that I am aware very many will fail to break up
the habit of kicking if the horse is confident and
persistent, for want of delicacy and firmness.
Many of those who use horses, and who think
too that they are good horsemen, as the term is,
are so confoundedly ignorant, rude and wanting
in energy to do anything more than half right,
or do more than perhaps half what is necessary,
that it is no cause for surprise that they would
often fail.

Look for the cause of resistance, second for
the type of disposition, and try to make the
treatment such as will prevent and overcome
the habit i the most direct and positive man-
ner, always striving to be cool and careful.
Treat the horse kindly, even with marked proofs
of affection, as soon as there is submission,

Nicking While Harnessing.

Put on the war bridle (small loop), and work
up with it sharply right and left a few times,
then pull down tight, and tie into a half hiteh.
While holding the cord in the left hand, step
back and pass the hand from the shoulders to
the hind parts gently. If thisis borne, take the
harness in the right hand and work it back
gently over the back. As this is borne, untie
the cord and tie down, so as to give the mouth
alittle more freedom. Naw go back and han-
dle as before, being careful to be gentle; if

63

there is resistance, punish sharply, tie down
short again, and put the harness on. When
there is submission, untie, then work back as
before; at the least indication of resistance,
tremble on the cord until the horse will bear
the harness while free from restraint.

Kicking While Grooming,

Some horses are so thin-skinned, that they
can scarcely bear a currycomb on the flanks or
legs, and when excited by rough treatment and
too severe use of the currycomb, are easily made
vicious to handle or groom. Put on the war
bridle, and after working up with it, hold
tightly and with the left hand use the curry-
comb on the back, gradually work to the sensi-
tive part; as there is submission give a little
more freedom to the mouth, and work back
lightly. If the horse seems unable to bear the
currycomb, use the brush instead, and that, if
necessary, lightly. Work lightly and indirectly
to the sensitive part, at the same time speaking
gently. It is almost impossible to overcome
this habit if there is not gentleness.

The currycomb is used too much by most
grooms. A sharp toothed, brass currycomb
must not be used on a thin-skinned horse ; use a
brush. LI should want a horse to kick a man
out of the stall who would useacurrycomb with
needless severity, or be otherwise needlessly

harsh.

Kicking while Shoeing.

Some horses have a peculiar aversion to hay-
ing their feet handled, and if once aroused to
resistance, from any cause, are apt to become

64

pretty determined in their habit. If the foot is
pulled away when taken up, or the horse is
excited and injured in some way while the foot
is held, the fear of injury is produced and asso-
ciated with the requirement, which by the usual
pulling, hauling and kicking practices of the
shop, makes the horse worse. The least inti-
mation of ability. to resist after being taken in
hand, always inspires the horse to renewed con-
fidence atid resistance, and if there is not ability
or perseverance enough to enforce perfect sub-
mission, after trying to do so, the horse is only
made more determined in the habit. As the
Object is to break up the habit, the energies
must be concentrated as directly and forcibly as
-possible; until the horse is so disconcerted and
shaken in the confidence of his powers of resist-
ance, as to yield to restraint and submit the feet
as required, when submission must be made
permanent by patient, gentle treatment. Ifonly
a little irritable and resists being shod, put on
the war bridle drawn tight, and tie in a half
hitch. The foot can now be handled. Untie in
a few minutes, and let the cord be pulled upon
a little when disposed to resist, which will dis-
tract the attention and cause submission. If the -
resistance is determined, take up the fore foot
and have held by an ‘assistant; tie the end of
the long web around the hind foot above the
fetlock. This done, request the assistant to let
go the foot and hold by the head, while standing
opposite the shoulder pull upon the strap until
the foot is brought well forward, giving loose
the instant there is an effort to jerk or kick.
Repeat pulling and letting go, until submitted
freely.’ Now step directly behind and pull back,
giving as before, until submissive; then bring

65

the web over the back around across the breast,
pulling short enough to bring the foot well for-
ward; pass the end back under the part over
the back, and pull tight.

Let the assistant now grasp the web, holding
firmly as ever, with the left hand holding the
head by the bridle. This brings the leg for-
ward, when it can be handled at will. If this
will not do, tie the end of the web or rope around
the neck near the shoulders, in the form of a
running noose; pass the other end back between
the fore legs, around the hind leg, below the
fetlock and back through the loop, round the
neck, drawing it through short enough to bring
the foot well forward. Pass the end back under .
to prevent sliding, and retainin the hand. The
horse will now be very likely to struggle to get
the foot loose. Should his resistance be so
great as to endanger injury, you can give loose
on the end of the strap. When the horse ceases
trying to get the foot loose, rest the left hand
upon the hip, with the right pull upon the foot
forward and outward. If there is great resist-
ance, pull around by the head, which will enable
you to keep in such limits as you wish. When
the struggle ceases, go back and handle as be-
fore. When the foot is submitted to the hand,
while held to the restraint of the strap, put the
cord well back upon the neck, draw it down
tightly, and tie it into a half hitch. Then pull
upon the foot with the hand as before. If not
resisted, untie the strap and take the foot in
hand gently. Put it down and take it. up, rub-
bing and handling until there is entire submis-
sion. Then carry it back with the right hand,
keeping well forward out of danger, by resting
the left hand upon the hip, and pulling and

G6

yielding to the foot until manageable. Now
pass the left hand down the inside of the leg,
take it from the right and earry it back gently ;
put it down and t: tke it up once or twice, Ham-
mer upon it lightly, gradually inereasing, until
the foot is submitted as required. Now untie
the cord and tie it a little longer; go back and
handle the foot as before. If submitted, untie
the cord, holding the end in the left hand, and
haudle as before. If there is an intimation of
resistance, tremble on the cord, which will keep
attention on the mouth, and remind of the pre-
vious control until the foot is submitted without
restraint. Manage the other hind foot in the
same manner, if necessary. The feet of such
horses should be taken up and pounded upon
repeatedly in the ‘stable, until submission be-
comes habitual. It must be borne in mind that
the smith shop is no place to more than pre-
vent resistance while shoeing, and it must be
expected that a very bad horse of this character
will not be made more than temporarily submis-
sive by the treatment usually necessary to bene
handling the feet to be shod. Indeed such e
forts are well caleulated to excite aversion oe a
shop and being shod, and henee a horse of
courage and sensibility is liable to be confirmed
in the resistance by such temporary treatment,
Let the horse be handled thoroughly at home,
and if necessary put through a course of subjee-
tion, handling the feet repeatedly until perfectly
gentle. When taken to the shop, if necessary,
simply remind that submission must be yielded
and treat gently—caressing, and rubbing head
and neck the way the hair lies. Colts should
not be taken to a shop to be shod until thor-
oughly accustomed to have the feet handled.

67
Balkcime.

This habit is caused by confusing and over-
loading, or trying to force too much by whipping
when exhausted, or when the draught from some
cause becomes too great for the horse to manage,
thereby exciting and discouraging the horse
before able to settle down toa steady determined
pull. When a horse, and especially a young
one, becomes mad and will not pall when com-
manded, there should not be a word or an action
that would betray an understanding of the resis-
tance. Change positiou—take up time in some

way by fixing the harness or walking around,
whistling or singing, if in the mood. There
must not be any appearance of anger. Give the
horse time to get over the ir ritation and become
willing to use his strength against the collar.
Any characteristic of wilfylness denotes spirit
and sensibility, consequently not disposed to
submit to being rudely and injudiciously forced
in harness, If “double, get both horses to start,
evenly. This can be done best, and greatly _
lesson the weight of the load in starting, by
standing directly i in front of both horses, catch-
ing the bits with the hands. Now move the
horses gently to the right or left until the wheel
almost strikes the side of the wagon—giving
them time to become steady. When you see
they are ready, speak with a cheerful, encourag-
ing voice, “come boys.” If this precaution is
taken, there will be no further trouble; but
bear in mind that the horses must not now be
permitted to go to the limit of their strength.
While they are still pulling with energy, at the
first favorable place stop them. After ample
time to recuperate, speak to them gently to go.

68

It seems to be natural for a hotse to go ahead
and draw all he can, and it is only when con-
fused, excited and abused by the most unreason-
able imprudence and abuse that the disposition
is excited to balk. When once the hubit is
learned, itis liable at any moment to be persisted
in if excited dr much force is used.

If there is any treatment to which horses aré
subject in educating to harness that is unreason-
able, and needlessly harsh, and should be cor-
rected, it is this of potinding of whipping to

make them go, when perhaps the animal is
confused and discour aged, and not in a condi-
tion to make much of an effort.

The flést and most fatal cause of this per-
plexing habit is the common practice of har-
nessing horses, and attempting to drive them,
and make them draw heavy loads before the
mouth is even trained to submit to the guidance
or restraint of the bit. I get out of all patience
with men who say they are good horsemen,
pride themselves for perhaps owning many’
horses, and always having more or less to do
with them, who talk and act as if all that is
necessary to do is to whip the animal through
at all hazards. If this would make the horse
go when commenced, it would be pardonable ;
but when it is known, or ought to be, that
whipping in harness if there is not certainty of
forcing obedience, is just what should not be
done. The paliative treatment of patience
and nieans of encouragement if there is nota
knowledge of proper treatment, should be
adopted. It is only reasonable that the horse
should resist aud become fixed in the habit
when needlessly excited and abused.

The whip is too irritating, without enabling

69

sufficient power to force obedience, and as the
will is stimulated to increased positiveness and
sensibility it becomes blunted in proportion to
the degree the blood is warmed,.this advan-
tage of force by the whip decreases, while the
resistance is increased—hence is often a direct
cayse of failure.

If the whip is to be depended upon, the
horse should be driven around with harness,
when it should be made to crack keenly around
the hind legs the instant after ‘‘ get up”’ is spo-
ken, until the horse learns to spring ahead when
commanded. When there is perfect obedience
attach to wagon and move gently, stopping
and starting often, until obedience becomes
habitual. ‘To prevent this habit the colt should
be driven around with harness, touching up
with the whip, until the idea of starting at the
touch of the whip, and guiding and submitting
to the bit becomes prompt and habitual. Then
drive slow and gently for some time after being
attached to wagon.

If the habit is learned, and especially in sin-
gle harness, it is usually more resistance to the
bit than collar, and if the horse is young will
yield readily to simple treatment. Put through
a careful but thorough course of subjection.
Then put on harness and breaking bit. Drive
around, whipping sharply the instant the horse
does not start when commanded, guiding right
and left, and stopping to the control of the bit,
If there is a habit of LUNGING auEaD regardless
of the bit, or will not stand as desired when
hitched, be positive and thorough in requiring
instant obedience to the command whoa.
Drive around until there is perfect obedience.
Then hitch to wagon, gently start and stop the

TO

horse repeatedly, gradually becoming positive

and commanding in action, until the ‘obedience
is made certain. ‘The lesson of driving to har-
ness should be repeated if there is any dispo-
sition to resist. But if the resistance is 80
positive that this treatment will not do, try the
war bridle, pulling right and left, until the
horse yields promptly to least restraint upon
the head. There must be kindness and flattery

for every act of obedience, and the most posi-
tive reproof at each effort of resistance. But
too much regard cannot be paid to the value of
affectionate treatment when there is obedience.
Talk kindly, give apples, oats or anything the
horse likes.

Nindness.

The impression of kind treatment gradually
showing and encouraging the animal to yield
obedience is certainly very effeetive, when car-
ried out wellin practice. During my early ex-
perience I traded horses very often. In this way
tT became the owner of a pony mare eight years
old. She proved balky, and on inquiry learned
that she had been traded round for years, and
had been owned by nearly all the sharp jockeys
in the country—being entirely unmanageable,
She would neither go down hill or move ona
level in harness. Neighbors advised to prose-
eute for imposing upon me with such a good-for-
nothing animal. Making it a rule not to find
fault if cheated, I declared myself satisfied and
concluded to try what I could do with her. I
first filled my pockets with apples, led the mare
to a secluded piece ot smooth, slighly deseend-
road, hauling the buggy by hand. Hitehed her

71

to buggy, did not urge her to go, read a paper
the better to show indifference.

After a while she started on arnn. To try to
make her go slow by pulling would be equiva-
lent to making her stop, and so let her go until
she wore off the sharp edge of her ambition. 1
now gradually pulled her back as I could see she
would bear, when I reached a descending piece
of ground, made her stop, got out of wagon,
talked gently, gave her an apple, then moved for-
ward a little, saying “‘come Jennie,” (her name)
gave her another apple, rubbing the head as
before, and so repeated for about half an hour.
Then would get into the buggy and make her
start, after going a few feet or rods making her
stop, but always getting out and rewarding her
with an apple. The result was, that Jennie
soon not only would start and stop when com-
manded, but became anxious to obey me. Drove
her home; treated her with the utmost kind-
ness; next day hitched her up gently, made her
start and stop a few times before getting into
the buggy; got into the buggy; soon made
her stop, but rewarded as before. The result
was that I soon could depend upon her starting
and stopping when commanded. Of cbiiedt
earried this treatment from a descending road
to an ascending grade, learning the mare
gradually to use her strength. The result was
that she became one of the most willing and
pleasant little drawing animals I ever owned.
Sold her in a few weeks. She became the
property of a rough bad man to horses, who
by. needless abuse made her balk on his way
home, and became spoiled. This mare was of
a& sanguine nervous temperament, natually
willing to do all she could when shown, and

~
12

treated kindly, but would not bear whipping
and abuse. Her will was so strong that she
would stand bravely, regardless of the most
severe whipping. TI struck her with a whip
but once when she threw herself down in the
harness. There cannot be too much care and
patience with young horses that are learning to
drive. If a little stubborn, putting through a
short course of subjection and teaching to move
forward as before explained, will soon enable
perfect submission. If however, the habit is
thoroughly formed, it must be counteracted by
direct means. To do this best, hitch the balker
by the side of a gentle horse. Attach a strong
piece of cord in the form of a crouper, under
the tail of the balker, bring forward through
the terret and tie to the hame ring of the
gentle horse, just short enough to give freedom
so lung as the horses are even, but the instant
there is a disposition to refuse, the whole power
of the gentle horse is brought to bear upon the
tail, which will cause the horse to jump for-
ward instantly. Stop and start repeatedly,
until there is no disposition to refuse moving
forward when commanded. Should pulling on
the tail irritate and cause kicking, at once
remove the cord; tie the end of the hair inte
a knot; tie the cord to the hair by this knot.
Bring forward between the legs and attach the
cord to the hame ring or collar of the gentle
horse, as before. T he restraint is now on the
tail lengthwise, which has a remarkably discon-
certing influence, with great power to force the
horse forward when the gentle horse starts.
If this should fail there is but one more re-
source left, which I can here describe, but
which is very effective and valuable if properly
applied.

73

Put the war bridle on; bring the part over
the neck forward to the ears; now jerk side-
ways and ahead, and finally ahead as there is
submission, until there is prompt obedience in
coming ahead when pulled upon. Hitch to
wagon by the side of a true horse. Have pre-
pared a smooth stiff pele about the length of
the wagon tongue. Bore a hole a few inches
from the large end, and about a foot or more
forward of the head bore another. Lay this
pole over that of the wagon, the end over that
of the true horse’s whiflletree, and tie firmly

on top with a piece of cord. Now step far-
ward and tie a piece of small rope from one
hame ring to the other of the horses, under
the pole, so as to be just taut when in position.
Pass another piece of the same sized cord around
the pole and tie it into the true horse’s hame
ring short enough to hold the pole in the
center. Tie the cord on the head now to the
pole through the hole, just long enough to give
freedom, so long as the horses keep even; but
as soon as there is refusal to go, the strength
of: the true horse is brought by the pole on the
head, which will compel going ahead, (see cut.)

T4

Start and stop the horses often, until obedience
is secured, This pole may be used so long as
there is any disposition to balk.

The horse should not be required ‘at first to
use the strength in drawing. Let this be re-
quired gradually, as there is obedience and
willingness inspired to work. It is a grave
fault to try to make the horse work immedi-
ately. This must not be attempted. — First,
create a willingness to start when commanded,
then gradually put in loading until it becomes
habituaal to draw when commanded. I am
aware very many will have much trouble, and
may wholly fail with horses of this character,
It is presumed that there is taet and intelli-
gence enough to appreciate and understand the
necessity of being patient, prudent and thor-
ough in adapting “the efforts skillfully. Those
who will not or have not mind enough to feel
the responsibility and value of being governed
by reason in the management of habits, not
only of this type but of any other, must expect
a possibility, with some very bad horses, of
failure.

A very good way to work a single baller, is
to drive first by the side of a @ entle horse with
the pole, then hitch to single wagon, using two
small peles instead of reins to the bit. Ow,
if the horse does not move promptly when
commanded, a little push on the poles will
eause him to. start, and soon cause prompt
obedience. But I would remind again that
patience, delicacy and skill in carrying out the
principles taught, is the primary and grand
essential to insure success. I would therefore
remind, that to illustrate the full value of my
theory, it is indispensible that all the firmness,

T5

skill and patience possible should be used in
directing and controlling the efforts, since with-
out the relation of the efforts is made reasonably
right, the advantage may be so far neutralized
as to prevent success. .

Kicking In Stall.

This is one of those habits that requires
penetration of observance and care in guarding
against danger. Let the horse know by some
signal or command, of your presence and inten-
tion to approach. Many horses of the gentlest
character would kick if approached suddenly
and unexpectedly; and again, many horses that
are gentle but a little peevish, will not bear
being approached without a little care in attract-
ing attention. ‘lhe motion of the ears and lips,
and expression of the eye will always notify of
danger. And here let me warn the reader that
however careful he may be in not going too
near the horse, there must not be a semblance
of fear shown in language or actions. The
commands must be low and positive, indicating
power. Ifthe horse will not move round and
seem to be distracted from a positive intention,
stand still, and if the animal does not yield,
walk off, carelessly whistling, in such a way
that the horse does not see that you feel de-
feated.

If you have attention, repeat che words “ get
around, or over,” with a positiveness that must
be obeyed, looking at the eye as if you could
and would crush all opposition. When you see
the horse shrink from your gaze, glide in to the
shoulder, before the mind can be made to act,
and the next instant let the left hand be passed

T6

along the neck and down the head to the nose-
piece of the halter and you are safe, as the horse
eannot now kick, strike or bite you. I have
repeatedly got to the shoulder of horses in this
way that would kick and strike the stall just
after I passed, yet not be struck; it is a feat,
however, that must not be attempted unless
necessary. In going out, the rule is the same—
pull the head towards you, looking at the eye
sternly; this will throw the quarters from you,
and at the instant you let go, glide out and you
are safe.

If the horse is dangerous, the safest and best
course is to put on the war bridle and make him
feel your power by a few sharp jerks of it.
Lead the animal into the stall, then step back
opposite the hips and say, *‘get around.” If
there is not prompt obedience, give a sharp
jerk, which will throw the hind part from you.
Repeat this, and in a short time the horse will
learn to step around promptly when command-
ed, and allow being approached. If the horse
is persistant leave the cord on, the small loop
being left larger and passed above the noose-
piece or through the rings of the halter. <As
you now step out, retain the cord in the hand
and hang or tie the end to a nail on the post,
leaving sutlicient length to permit the horse
entire freedom to the halter. Now when you
desire to go into the stall, if the horse does not
step round when commanded, untie or unhook
the end of the cord and give a jerk upon it,
which will bring the animal to his senses.
Leaving this on a few days, caressing and giv-
ing presents of sugar, apples, or anything of
which the horse is fond, will soon not only break
up the confidence, but so enlist the attention.

77

that your approach will be looked for and in-
vited to approach by stepping round, and en-
deavoring to reach around for the present.

I would here remind, that there are very many
men who are not fit to have anything to do with
a sensitive, well-bred horse. They are either
so coarse and harsh as to excite resentment and
hate, and so dull and ignorant that they cannot
or will not see that they must both conceal fear
and avoiddanger. They will not doeither. They
abuse and show so much fear as both to excite
end encourage resistance, and without the genius
or tact to correct the cause of mischief, they at-
tribute all the trouble to the natural viciousness
of the animal.

I would caution also against teasing horses in
the stall, or while cleaning, by pinching, prick-
ing or whipping, to show up, as the term is.
Gentlemen who own fine horses should be very
particular about this, and a man who would in
any way persist in such treatment, or in any
manner excite resistance by annoying or abusive
treatment, should be at once discharged, what-
ever his other qualifications.

Pulling on Malter.

It is the disposition of the horse to persist in
what he learns, and this is remarkably so where
the habit is one of resistance to the restraint of
the halter or bit. If the halter strap is broken
once or twice, there is a determined purpose to
pull loose at all hazard when hitched. This is
sometimes only in the place the habit has been
learned. Thus a horse learns to pull loose in
the stall, he will resist being hitched in stall,
but will submit to be hitched anywhere else;

78

or the horse has learned to pull loose in the
street and resists there, but will submit and not
pull in stall. This habit is taught either by
being tied by the halter before knowing or being
taught to submit to being tied, or accidentally
breaking the tying strap. If from the first cause
the animal becomes frightened, pulls, and if
successful in breaking loose, the habit is estab-
lished ; or the halter strap is so weak that the
least jerk upon it causes it to break and the
habit becomes fixed. As prevention is much
better and cheaper than cure, and if the horse
should be trained to submit to the restraint of
the halter, or the hitching straps should be
strong enough not to give way, even though
pulled upon severely.

To break up the habit, get a strong half inch
cord sixteen feet in length; put the center under
the tail like a crouper; twist them a few times
as you bring them forward over the back; pass
forward on each side of the neck, through the
halter ring and tie to the post or manger same
as a halter; excite by any means that will make
the horse pull until the habit is overcome. To
insure safety, would hitch so for a few days, or
so long as there is any predisposition to pull on
the halter. Same treatment for pulling on the
bridle.

Biting and Striking.

There are many habits which to break up
successfully requires not only good judgment,
but the highest order of nerve, and this is
not only one, but one that requires the highest
order of this fitness. The least want of watch-
fulness will encourage this propensity, and
however thorough. the training, if there is not

79

this. care the horse will be encouraged to be-
come aggressive, and once allowed to do so.
successfully the point gained is lost. Hence
the necessity of being able to see the intention.
ata glance, and disconcert the mind from its
purpose before being fully developed. The
horse must be made to yield the most perfect
submission. If a stallion this is an absolute
necessity. If the war bridle will not enable
this, put through a course of subjection, and
follow up with either four ring bit or war
bridle, punishing sharply. In approaching
afterwards, speak sharply ‘‘ get round!”’ or any
signal that will attract attention. Let the left
hand be put on the shoulder, (near side,) glide
it up the neck to the head, then down to the
nose-piece of the halter. If there is an attempt
to bite now, the hand is carried up before the
head and held out of reach, while you can
keep the head from you with the greatest ease.

An old horse subject to this habit must be
watched closely. So long as there is disposition
to bite, the horse must not be regarded safe.
Carelessness and timidity, especially if sub-
jected to harsh treatment, may be regarded as
the primary cause. Have known horses to be-
come inveterate biters by being whipped once
or twice.

A gentleman informed me lately that a horse
he lately owned became perfectly vicious by
being struck once with the whip in stall.
Hle was, up to that time, as gentle as any
horse could be. One of the most vicious
horses I ever handled of this character, was
made so by being whipped once severely. He
jumped at his owner and would have killed
him if not driven off with clubs. He had run

80

in his stall seven months, and would jump at
any one with the ferocity of a desperate dog.
I made him gentle in less than twenty minutes,
and he remained of a good character afterwards.
If the horse is young and thoroughly treated,
there will be but little trouble in reforming the
animal. If old and bad there is no hope of
success, unless there is unusual nerve, and
genius to make every move just right, and
follow up the treatment until the mind relaxes
from the purpose, and the affections are won.
The habit is clearly a mania when onee thor-
oughly learned.

If the horse ‘is allowed't to bite without instant
and positive reproof, after training, no matter
how thorough the training, the predisposition
will be again so strongly developed as to make
the animal watch for an opportunity to bite.
After forcing obedience, encourage every act
of docility. Be continually on the watch for
danger and punish energetically for aggression,
but immediately encourage obedience by kind
affectionate treatment. |

Cribbing.

Cribbing, so far as we are able to learn or
judge, is a habit. There may be constitu-
tionally predisposing causes, but it is certain
whatever the pretentions of any one, I have
never been given any proof of ability to break
up the habit with medicine. Horses will not
crib on anything that is lower than the knees.
Hence the treatment of tearing away the man-
ger and feeding on the floor, or in a basket.
Sometimes sawing between the teeth will stop
the habit.

81

There is but one practical plan of breaking
up this habit, and the success of that will de-
pend. very much upon the skill displayed in
making the adjustment.

The act of cribbing induces considerable con-
traction of the muscles of the neck. The
larynx is forced down much beyond its natural
position. This then is the key through which
we must act. Have the throat-latch of the
halter hang on a line with the top of the head
to the junction of the neck with the bead.
Take a piece of strap, (good firm leather),
about five inches in length, and as wide as
the throat-latch. Drive ten ounce tacks in a
row along the center of this strap, three
eighths of an inch apart. File the points
sharp and of an equal length. Lay this strap
on the inside of the throat-latch where it crosses
the larynx, wind a piece of waxed thread
around both, at the center and ends of the
short strap. Buckle the throat-latch just long -
enough so that it will not touch the neck when
eating or drinking, but will press sharply at
the least attempt tocrib. The result is that at
every attempt to crib the tacks will stick into
the neck, which will hurt and disconcert the
horse from the purpose of doing so.

The point of success will really depend upon
the perfection and care with which this is kept
adjusted. If there is large muscular develop-
ment on the neck or thick necked, the strap
must be buckled shorter than when the neck
is well cut out, as itis termed. Make the re-
proof severe at first. Then keep it so as to
touch sharply when a repetition is attempted.
If the throat-latch is not on a line with the top
of the head, the tacks will rest against and cut

4* |

82

the jaw, a little below the junction of the head
with the neck. If this is kept on a few days
or weeks, and then put on carelessly or taken
off, there is likely to be failure; for if the
horse finds he ean crib once after this is put on
without hurting himself, he will try to repeat
the effort at all hazards, and will punish him-
self severely to do so. Butif punished at first
and kept where it will sting at the least at-
tempt, it will be likely to cure the habit. It is
to be kept on from a few weeks to as many
months, according to the age and persistence
of the habit.

Getting Cast in Stall.

Drive a staple into a beam, or the floor directly
over the horse’s head, as he stands in the stall,
to which attach a strap or piece of small rope of
sufficient length to extend within fifteen inches
of the floor. Before retiring for the night, at-
tach the other end of the cord or strap to the
top of the halter, making it just long enough
to allow the horse to put his nose.to the floor.
Being now unable to get the top of his head to
the floor, he is prevented from rolling.

Putting the Tongue out of the Mouth.

Have fitted a piece of thin sheet iron, about
two and a half inches wide, and five inches long,
with the ends made rounding, and the edges
filed smooth. Drill two small holes about half
an inch apart near the each edge at the center.
Fasten it through these holes on top of the bit
with a piece of small annealed wire. Shorten
the cheek pieces of the bridle, so that the bit is

83

drawn wellupinthe mouth. This piece of iron
is now over the tongue, making it impossible
for the horse to get the tonguc over the bit.
Keep this on the bit for two or three weeks,
when the horse will become habituated to carry-
ing the tongue under the bit and keeping it in
the mouth. The tongue is sometimes, but not
oiten put out under the bit, which will show a
confirmed persistence in the habit, and is some-
times impossible to prevent. The following
treatment will work admirably in most cases,
aud is the only treatment worth explaining.

Get three middling sized bullets and hammer
them out to about an inch and a half in length.
Drill a little hole through the end of each. Tie
one to the center of the bit by a little piece of
wire through the joint. Attach the others to
the bit about an inch from the center, (one on
each side), so as to play loosely. When the bit
is now in the mouth, these extra arrangements
will so disconcert the horse that in his struggles
to get them out of the way, he will forget to
put the tongue out.

Jumping Over Fences.

Many farmers assert that this alone is worth
the entire expense of the lesson. Certainly if
this will prove so valuable, the instruction on
Taming and Changing Habits must be invalu-
able. Ifa horse or mule, put on a halter that
fits well to the head—a five ring halter is best.
Next find a piece of thin leather, (an old boot
leg will do) about as long as the head, and from
four to five inches wider than the head is at the
eyes. Form it same as cut, with a string at-
tached at each corner. Attach the upper cor-

84

ners by the strings to the halter where the brow-
piece is attached to the cheek-piece. Tie the
cords attached to the lower corners back of the »
jaw, (being careful to leave just freedom enough
to masticate easily.) Let the ends now pass over
the throat-latch, and make fast. The horse is
simply disabled from looking ahead; can look
sideways and back, but cannot look ahead or
over the nose forward, which will disconcert
sufficiently to prevent the animal not only jump-
ing, but throwing the fence down. If an ox or

cow, attach the upper corners to the horns, and
pass the strings around the neck instead of over
the throat-latch. I find that cows will not at-
tempt to jump after this has been used two or
three weeks. Horses and mules a much longer
time, and in some cases must be used for months.
Of course farmers should keep fences in good
repair to keep stock from being tempted to jump
them. It is fallacy to suppose that means how-
ever valuable can be wholly relied upon for suc-
cess, so long as the cause is permitted to eon-
tinue. The leather should be at least four inches

85

wider than the head at the eyes, but five or
more will be much better. This will bring the
leather outside of the eyes when on from two to
three inches, and around the side of the face to
prevent working over the nose. There may be
failure with this, but if properly applied excep-
tions will be rare, as it has proved so far almost
infallible.

Pawing in Stall.

Get a piéce of chain about ten inches in
length—run a short strap through one of the
end links, and buckle it around the foot above
the fetlock; ora piece of light chain can be
fastened to a small block, and attach it to the
foot in the same manner. When the horse
attempts to paw, the clog or chain rattles against
the foot, and prevents a repetition of the prac-
tice.

Kicking on Stall,

The same treatment used for preventing paw-
ing may be used; ora piece of plank may be
attached across the stall over the hips about an
inch higher than the hips. At each effort to
kick now, the hind part will strike this plank
and prevent ability to do so. Ifthe kicking is
with one foot against side of stall, attach some
brush to the side of the stall, or hang down
_ loosely over the part kicked at.

Pulling too Hard on Bit, Turning Around while
Driving, or Running Back.

Sufficiently explained in the article on Runn-
ing Away; which, with the illustration given
in teaching, will enable suflicient knowledge of
the treatment necessary.

86

Kicking Cows.

Put on the war bridle, (small loop) and pull
a few times right and left, then go back gently —
and attempt to milk. On the least resistance,
hold with the bridle and punish .sharply, so
repeating as may be necessary until the cow
learns to stand quietly and becomes afraid to
kick. Effectual in every instance.

Of course due attention must be given to the
condition of the animal. Sometimes the teats
are sore, and the pain caused by milking is very
severe. Scolding, kicking or pounding with the
stool should not be permitted, as it only in-
creases the mischief it is desired to avert. One
or two lessons has proved effectual in every
instance used.

War Bridie.

This is simply a fine threaded cotton cord of
the best material, twisted hard, of about three-
eighths of an inch in diameter, and twelve or
fourteen feet long. Tie each end into a hard
knot, just as you would do to prevent its ravel-
ing, with the difference of putting the end
through the tie twice. Then pull down tight
and hard close to the end. Now tie another
knot about twelve inches from the end, but
before drawing it tight, put the end through.
This will make a loop that will not slip or draw
through. The great simplicity of this form of
knot, with the ease with which it can be untied,
gives it preference to me over all other forms of
knot I have ever used, and is, in my judgment,
the best form of knot, all things considered, to
be recommended for general use. The peculiar

87

power this means of control enables upon the
mouth, is liable to cause accident, when used
upon a quick, sensitive horse or green colt, with
too much energy in such a manner as to bring
the restraint directly back upon the mouth,
which would in many cases cause the horse to
rear up and possibly fall over backward upon
the head. Of course a horse is liable to get
killed by such an accident, and must and should
be guarded against. This loop should be just
large enough to go over the lower jaw, back of
the bridle teeth of the horse it is intended to be
used upon. The other end can now be formed
into another loop in the same manner, with the
difference of being large enough to go over the
head and fit tightly around the neck near the
shoulder.

Applying the War Bridle.

There are two ways of applying and using the
war bridle: |

Ist. While standing forward of the shoulders
on the near side of the horse, throw the small
loop over the neck and take in the left hand.
Then with the right put the large-loop through
from the top side. Now pass the left hand for-
ward to the mouth, adroitly spreading the loop
in the same position over the thumb, second,
third and fourth fingers; at the same time the
right hand is to be passed under the neck,
around the head, upon the nose, which is to be
grasped gently but firmly, while the loop is put
over the jaw back of the bridle teeth with the
left.

By standing near the shoulder and giving a
sharp pull, you will find the horse will come to
you easily, by repeating which the horse will

88

soon learn to follow. This isa powerful means
of controlling by the head; is particularly val-
uable in teaching to lead, and control the head,
for forcing in bridling, harnessing, grooming,
or even in shoeing, if simply a little irritable.
Drawing down tightly and tying into a half
hitch, will sometimes have a powerful effect.
It is not however to be regarded as an infallible
means, but is a really good simple means of
restraint, and must be used with care. When the
horse is of a stubborn positive character, es-
pecially if unbroke it will be found that there
will not always be sufficient power to force
obedience with it, though in the majority of
cases it will be found to enable very fine re-
sults.

2d. Take the large loop between both hands,
and while standing directly in front of the
horse, slide it over his head well back upon the
neck, about where the ‘collar rests. The loop
should be made in size to fit tightly around
this part of the neck. Now put the other end
down between the loop and neck. Put the
loop this forms into his mouth back of the bri-
dle teeth, then draw down upon the end until
the slack is taken up. This method of using
the war bridle, enables more power sideways
than that of the first, but does not like the first
enable any power to pull ahead.

,

Four Ring Bit.

This means of controlling by the head ena-
bles great power. The knowledge of its use
alone if properly applied, is worth the expense
of the lesson and book.

89

Get a short snaffle bit, (steel is best). Heat
one of the rings and slip over it two-inch and
a half rings, (common malleable rings found in
harness shops will do,) then bend the ring into
form. You have now a common snafile bit,

with two rings on the mouth-piece, (see cut.)
Buckle into a common bridle. Get made next
two straps, one two foot in length and three-
quarters of an inch wide, made like a hame
strap; the other about three feet in length,
narrower and lighter. Run the short strap
through both rings and buckle double, in the
form of a nose-piece, buckling just long enough
to fit around the nose closely. Bring the long
strap around the short-one at the center, pass
up and through a little loop left in the bridle
between the ears and buckle, just short enough
to let the nose-piece come straight across the
nose. It will now be found by standing in
front of the horse, putting both thumbs through
the rings and giving a little jerk down and
backwards, that the head will be thrown up and
back easily. The stop across the nose acting
as the fulerum when the rings on the end of
the bit are pulled upon, the two inside rings
slide towards the center forcing the joint up-
wards against the roof of the mouth, which
causes so much pain that the horse will not try
to resist after being pulled upon a few times.
By tying the end of a small cord around the

near ring of the bit, then pass the other end
behind the jaw through the other ring, then

90

over the neck and down between the cord and
jaw, (let the part over the neck be set well
back). Now, by pulling sideways upon the.
cord, the horse will be found to yield very
promptly to its restraint. Asa driving bit this
is. very powerful. After being pulled upon afew |
times, there are but few horses that will try to
resist it. It overcomes pulling on one rein or
throwing the nose upon the breast. The effect
of this bit on some horses is very great. It
does not cut or make the mouth sore like other
bits, and would be specially valuable on horses
that pull hard and get the mouth sore, as it
does not touch the lower jaw, yet forces perfect
submission.

Foot Strap.

Any piece of strap or rope of about twelve
or fourteen feet in length, simply tied around
the fore-foot in most any manner, will answer
on an emergency. Butas simply tying or knot-
ting around the foot is objectionable on account
of the danger of chafing and preventing circu-
lation, or possibly untying at some critical
moment. When necessary to use a foot-strap
much, it should be specially adapted for the
purpose by making as follows: Have a smooth
strap made, about twelve inches long and an
inch wide, with a buckle on one end and
buckle holes punched in the other. About one
inch from the buckle should be fitted, under the
lap passing around the buckle, a ring -or D
stitched in nicely. The edges of this trap
should be dressed down smooth; or much
better, cover the part coming in contact with
the foot with a piece ot soft leather. This strap
18 intended to buckle around the foot below the.

91

fetlock. Into the ring fasten the end of a strap
or web fourteen feet long and an inch and a
half wide.

Buckle the short strap around the near fore-
foot below the fetlock, then pass the long strap
over the belly-band on the near side back to
the wagon, and hold asarein. ‘This gives con-
trol of the foot at will, by which the horse can
be disabled and disconcerted instantly, while
driving. If the horse attempts to kick, simply
pulling the foot up throws him off his balance.
He can neither kick or run back, and if he at-
tempts to go ahead it must be on three legs, in
a manner that makes resistance quite limited.
It is especially valuable when training colts to
drive, by neutralizing the animal’s power to
resist, should he become frightened and attempt
to kick or back. The foot-strap is also valuable
as ameans of enabling eontro! of horses that

will not submit to being rode, and is very
effective.

Trotting.

Though not an object of my instruction, there
is so much interest of late in trotting, and there
is such a general anxiety to make every promis-
ing colt a fast trotter, that such simple explana-
tions as may be necessary to aid those who are
not familiar with the management of horses,
how to develop and grow young horses into the
trotting gait becomes important, since to sell
for a good price, there must be good speed
in the trot. Hence, my farmer friends look
with pride on promising “steppers,” and I
desire at least to include such hints as will pre-
vent spoiling such colts in an pete to train
them to a fast trotting gait.

92

The first object should be to make the colt
gentle and fearless—next to train the mouth
carefully. Commence by putting on a smooth
snaffle bit, gradually checking short as the horse
becomes accustomed to it and will bear restraint;
giving two or three lessons in teaching submis-
sion to flexible restraint, as explained in the
article on Bitting. Drive now slowly and gently
in harness until the colt learns to submit to and
be guided by the bit. Ifyou take much pride
in the colt, let the lessons be slow and careful.
The point of driving in harness accomplished,
attach to a sulky or the shafts and fore wheels
of a buggy and drive around on awalk. When |
there is perfect submission to this, and the same
delicacy of submission is retained to the restraint
of the bit, repeat the driving, now riding—
but as before, on a walk. A good walking gait
should be the foundation of the training. Con-
tinue this walking lesson until the colt is thor-
oughly gentle and submissive, and has learned
to walk with energy. Now gradually let out on
a moderate trot, holding up often, gradually
letting out a little faster, as the strength and
education will bear, but never so as to cause
fatigue. Those muscles that are brought most
into use are most largely developed, and bear
in mind also that a colt has neither the strength
or bottom of an old horse, to bear either much
exertion, or to be pushed in his gait, and can
not at once.act the part of a fast going, well
trained horse.

Let this jogging be continued, gradually as
there is ambition and the road is smooth and
decending; but let out only so fast, or to the
point that the gait is held even and square ;
and at first should be held only a short distance,

98

after which pull back to a walk and speak en-
couragingly. This is to be repeated, gradually
going a little faster, but never to the point of
exhaustion, always encouraging with a kind
word or two after doing well. I would here
caution against hitching the colt to a heavy
wagon or ‘sulky. The weight must be reduced
as much as possible, and the better to facilitate
the object, always let the bursts of speed be on
a smooth slightly decending piece of road. By
this precaution you will remove all drag, and
the horse is able to use all his powers to the
best possible advantage.

During the driving particular attention should
be given to the training of the mouth. Learn
the horse to pull steadily and firmly on the bit,
yet come back easily at a signal, or when the
pressure is increased. A horse wastes power
to the degree he pulls on the bit more than is
necessary to be guided and held steady in his
gait. Second, the freedom of the larynx is so
lessened by pulling hard as to make breathing
difficult. Third, the bit is your only resource
by which to stop the animal in case of an acci-
dent, and the control must be easy and positive
or there is danger of the horse running away
when‘ greatly excited. Yet it will not do to
make the mouth sore, or jerk severely with a
harsh ;bit, as this would make the horse un-
willing to pull at all, and he would be afraid to
go fast, fearing the severity of being jerked.

This is a point, to overcome successfully
that seems to baffle really able trotting trainers,
and indeed, as I before asserted, one that puz-
zles the most skillful horsemen in the country.
They permit the horse as he becomes warmed
to pull with energy. The habit grows upon

$4

the animal, to the verge of pulling as much as
a strong man can well hold, and at the least
accident the increased excitement increases the
resistance to the bit so much as to make it
impossible for the driver, even though able to
use his utmost strength, to pull the horse up;
and as a consequence is almost free to run
away, and hable to do so when greatly excited.
Being allowed to pull hard on the bit also en-
dangers a fast stepper to run sideways, and
permitted to do so once, there will be a strong
predisposition to the habit. Thus an _ other-
wise incomparable horse is made so unreliable
as to be rendered almost valueless.

It is often a cause of no ordinary astonish-
ment to even critical horsemen to see with
what ease I can make horses of known bad
character in resisting the strain of the bit and
running away, submit to the most gentle pull
of the reins, though subjected to great excite-
ment—and it is.a cause of as much surprise to
me that horsemen of experience should make so
much of a blunder in trying to do what is so
simple and easy, or attach so little importance
to a feature of training, upon the success of
which the control of the horse and the safety
of his use must so largely depend.

This is the more important in educating to
trot, since fast trotting necessitates so much
freedom as to call ont all the energies, almost
to the verge of running away — hence the
necessity of so training the mouth that it can
be held sufficiently passive to ensure certainty
of controlling the actions at will, when even
subjected to the greatest excitement and free-
dom. These results can now be easily pre-
vented by a little care. :

95

It is natural for a horse to resist the bit at
first, and the greater the speed the more this
disposition is increased, to the extreme of pull-
ing more if permitted to use his strength
against the bit, than a strong man could neu-
tralize and restrain with reins. In view of
these facts and the horse being very much a
creature of habit, it is highly important that
the impression is correctly taught from the first
to yield obedience to the bit, and that this point
is retained at all hazards during every progres-
sive step of the education in speeding.

This should commence with the first lesson
of Driving in Harness. First, when moving
on a slow walk, call ‘whoa.’ Not being obeyed,
give a little raking pull, which will cause the
horse to stop. ‘This is to be repeated until the
colt will stop instantly at the command whoa.
- Now increase the gait, when it will be found
the same force will have to be repeated, but to
a less extent. When obedient on a fast walk,
touch up to a trot, and do the same when obe-
dient on a fast trot, and the same on a run.
All this should be done slowly. The colt
should be encouraged by caressing and kind
words when he does well, and by all means the
instant there is a pull on the reins forcing the
horse to stop instantly, slack up on the reins,
so that there is no pressure felt upon the
mouth. Tanght to stop instantly when com-
manded, commence again on a walk, urging
up, and soon after learning the colt to come
back to.a light pull on the bit. Of course in
doing this, as at first the pull must be quick
and raking, but less severe, which is to be
gradually toned down, until only a gentle but
firm pressure is necessary. Great care must

96

be taken not to excite the colt now, as this
would destroy sensibility so much in the mouth
as to necessitate severity of force that would
bruise or cut the mouth. Let the horse grow
into the habit slowly and but little foree will
be necessary; for, though you accomplish your
object by force that excites, when you attempt
torenew the lesson you will find the mouth
will be so tender, in consequence of the sore-
ness thus caused, that the horse cannot press
against the bit at all, or but little. He becomes
excited and jerks, afraid of the bit and does
not know what to do. As in stopping increase
the speed to a trot, and gradually increase that
to a run, slowly learning the horse to yield
to the pressure of the bit or stop, until the same
obedience is secured on a fast trot or run.
This lesson should be carefully repeated. When
hitched to wagon or sulky it will be found that
the resistance will be greatly increased. The
lesson in consequence must be commenced on
a walk, and gradually carried step after step to
a fast oait, As the horse becomes accustomed
to harness and to driving, this vigilance and
care must be continued until the obedience to
the command and restraint is made certain
and easy. This it will be found will require
more or less continuous training. The nice
point in doing this is to gage the pressure to the
point desired. When greater than this, relieve
by au inclination of the raking movement, and
if there is disregard of the command and
warning, use more > severity at once.

If the pull is permitted to become heavy, by
permitting freedom to do so, as the gait
increases, the habit will become permanent.
This is what must now be guarded against by

97

checking at once (as shown) any disposition to
pull too hard. If there is resistance in any
way check it immediately. This point must be
attended to carefully if the horse is ambitious.
This careful driving and gradually learning the
animal to push forward when commanded is to
be continued, but however promising, the tault
should not be hazarded of trotting a race, or a
long distance, before the system is thoroughly
matured and hardened to bear prolonged
exertion. ‘The gait of many fine trotters
is ruined by too much haste and harshness in
training. A horse has not his growth until
five years old, and should not be put to severe
work before six or seven years old. It is
proved by experience that much greater age is
necessary to attain great speed. Flora Temple
made her fastest time of two minutes nineteen
seconds and three-quarters, when she was fif-
teen years old, at Kalamazoo. Dexter is con-
stantly increasing his speed, we are informed,
by age and practice; and so it will be found
with all the best trotters. They were grown
into great speed by careful, persevering, work,
by which the system is highly developed, the
muscles are strengthened and hardened, and
useless foul matter that would obstruct the
freedom of the heart and lungs, and increase
the weight, is removed.

Should the horse break when pushed in his
gait, he should not be pulled up too suddenly,
which would slacken his speed. Rather en-
courage him to go faster, and by gently and
firmly pulling right and left bringing him to trot.
The horse has now ne disposition to resist con-
trol, and he must be taught to rely with confi-

) }

98

dence, as well as yield submission to the re-
straint of the bit. |

But there are many promising steppers that
will break and run, and will not come down to
work again, when much excited; and unless
there is power to prevent such a habit and foree
on the trot, the horse eannot be relied upon in
a race, at perbaps the very instant pushing is
necessary. There is not power to do this by the
bit, and consequently borses that step freely in
private become foolish and unreliable when
urged in company with other horses. There is
but one way of overcoming this trouble, and
that is by the use of the following means, the
eonception of which has been’ original with
myself, and brought to the notice of trainers by
me for several years, and has proved in skillful
hands a valuable adjunct, to the end of making
flighty, nervous horses come down to fast re-
hable going.

One gentleman in Ohio, two years sinee,
eame one hundred and fifty miles to get this
treatment of me, and in three months after-
wards he informed me that he had sinee sold a
mare for fifteen hundred dollars whieh he had
bought for three hundred and seventy-five dol-
lars. She would break when in the least ex-
cited, and could be made nothing of, though a
fast stepper. He bought her, made the exper-
iment, and in less than a month had her down
fine, and could hold her under the whip regard-
less of yelling and the excitement of competing
horses. This gentlemen informed me he then
had a horse that promised equally good results
by this treatment. .

To make this and use: Have made first four
straps long enough to go around the hind legs

99

above the hocks, and from three-quarters to
an inch wide. Find next two D’s or rings, in
size to admit two each of these straps to be
run through. Step in front of each hind leg
and buckle these straps around the leg, one
above and one below the gambrel, the ring or
D in front, bringing the straps to an acute
angle. Put on the : Hie a light well fitting
halter. Attach a strap to this, which must be
in part double to regulate the angle, which
must be long enough to extend from the head
to the back edge of the girt. On the end is to
be attached a small, nice, easy running pulley,
fitted to run a half inch cord. The strap is to
pass back from the halter, between the legs, over
the bellyband, just back of which must come this
pulley. Find next a piece of firm, hard cotton
or hemp cord, from three-eighths to half an inch
in size. Run it through the pulley to the center,
and tie the ends into the D’s or rings attached to
the hind legs; the whole to be so regulated in
length that the horse can walk or trot easily.
One leg going forward to the degree that the
opposite one goes back, bringing no restraint
on the cord or head, but the instant both feet
go back as in the act of running, the cord is
shortened, the head is drawn back, and the
horse is taught that he is helpless. He soon
learns this and becomes afraid to break, though
subjected to any reasonable excitement.—
With this “rig’’ on, move the horse on a walk
until accustomed to it, which will usually re-
quire but a very short time. Then let out on
a moderate trot, and when thoroughly accus-
tomed to it pushing to a fast gait. This must
be repeated. Infact this arrangement should
be kept on until the horse is made reliant,

100

Should be driven and thoroughly practiced
with other horses, and excitement made as if
in arace. Of course all this requires ingenuity,
patience and care.

This will work best on some horses ‘by
attaching to the collar, or around the neck.
The restraint is simply more positive by this
change. There should be good understanding
with the horse, as this will prevent much ner-
vousness and excitement. Hence there must
be care in using the whip, or in punishing. The
horse must be made to understand, by motions,
actions and language, exactly what he is re-
quired to do; and in order to inspire his confi-
dence, and obey readily, there must be care in
not saying or doing anything that will confuse
or excite. All needless jerking, whipping and .
yelling, must be guarded against, unless so far
as it is designed to familiarize to noise and
excitement. I saw a man driving a pair of
oxen lately, who screeched at the top of his
voice, ‘‘ gee, haw, there,’ and whipped at the
same time. Here was confused contradiction.
The best intellect in the world could not obey
such a command, and the best trained oxen
would be confused by such senseless driving.
Horses cannot understand language only as
taught, and they cannot do but one thing ata
time. Let the commands be dictated by judg-
ment, at least with some show of patience and
reason. ‘To fit a horse for a race requires ex-
perience and skill, that can only be acquired
by years of practice and experience. The
better to give an understanding of the neces-
sary routine for this purpose, I annex the treat-
ment practiced by racing owners, as given by
the celebrated trotting trainer, H1ram Woop-
RUFF, lately published in Wilkes’ Spirit

101

For the first week or ten days there is to be
no fast work at all; but at the expiration of
that time the muscles and tendons ought to be
seasoned enough to justify the trainer in
indulging the horse with slight spurts. In
these he may be permitted to move along
lively without overtaxing his powers or his
wind. No rule can be given as to their length.
The only thing to be said is, that they ought
not to be very trequent, and never long. The
judgment of the trainer should enable him to
determine how frequent they may be, and to
what distance he may venture to send him with-
out danger of overdoing the thing. It must be
remembered that at this early stage of his.
preparation the horse can bear very little, com-
_ pared with that which he will endure with ease,
and which may be undertaken with impunity -
when his condition has become forward. It is
a rule with some to adminster physic before the
work of the horse is commenced, but I have
never been able to perceive the wisdom of such
a course. It is supposed that if the horse has
been wintered well, the secretions will be mode-
rately active, and the bowels regular when the
time to commence work comes. In such a case
there is no necessity for physicing. It may be
apparent that some medicine may be required to
abate internal heat and humours, or if the
horse is gross and fleshy, from being overfed
while standing still. In such cases a mild dose
of medicine may be given with advantage. In
such cases I prefer to jog fora few days, then
let up and give a mild ‘dose of medicine.
Work is not to be resumed until the effects of
the medicine has passed off, and then it is to be
carried on the same as if there was no necessity |

102

for it. While this part of the preparation is in
progress the feed may be increased, though not
up to the extent that will be requisite when |
the work is made longer and sharper. He may
have during this first part of the preparation
from eight to ten quarts of oats a day, accord-
ing to his capacity as a feeder, and the demands
made upon him by nature, for supply of stron
food under work. <As the oats are increase
the horse will want less hay, but may still have
all that he will eat up clean. After taking his
feed of oats, he will not consume as much hay
in general; but some horses are such gluttons
that it is necessary to limit them as to hay
almost from the first. There are even some
who will eat the straw of their bedding when
they have had all the grain and hay that ought
to be fed to them ; and with these it sometimes
becomes necessary to put on the muzzle long
before the time for the race. No carrots are
now to be given. While the jogging and after
preparation are going on, a bran mash now and
then will be proper. About once a week will be
often enough and not too often. This will be
indicated by the condition of the horse’s
bowels. If the bowels are relaxed the necessity
for a bran mash is not indicated. If of a light
washy order, not having much bottom when
put into sharp training work, mashes are to be
given more sparingly than to those of the
opposite character.

After the week or ten days of moderate trot-
ing, by which the muscles and tendons will be
hardened and the wind improved, the horse
may be pushed along at half speed; and he
may be started up and moved at three-quarters
_speed for about half a mile. This brush of

103

half a mile at three-quarters speed may be in-
creased if the horse feels fine and improves
under his work. The next step will be as soon
‘as you perceive that he stands up well to his
work, comes out cheerfully, and takes it with a
relish, to brush him along at a speed for a quar-
ter of a mile, or even half a mile, to the degree
that he will bear. He is not of course to be
forced in pace up to the extreme of what he is
capable in a race.

Care is also to be taken that natural ardor
and willingness, are not suffered to carry the
animal to any extreme of exertion. High
strung horses are apt to want to do more work
and to do it faster, than is good for them. This
frequently misleads inexperienced persons, who
seeing them ambitious, let them out loose,
imagining that it can do no harm. Such horses
require to be watched carefully and taken in
hand, for their natural eagerness to perform
is not often accompanied with power to keep
on, and stand up under a severe preparation at
such a rate.

On the other hand, there are others lazily
inclined, but requiring a great deal of work to
make them fit. These are commonly able to
bear as much as it is deemed necessary to give
them, and they must be wakened up from time
to time, so as to get them down to work. So
the training goes on. The improvement in
condition is to be watched and noted, to deter-
mine when it will be safe to give the fisrt trial.
No rule can be laid down as to the amount of
work the horse ought to have before the trial
may be ventured on. His condition as he ap-
pears while at work, and during and after his
speedy brushes, is to be the guide by which the
judgment in the matter must be directed.

104

During the fast work preparatory to the trial,
the horse should be put upon his largest allow-
ance of strong food. Some will not eat more
than eight or ten quarts of oats a day, and it is’
necessary to be careful that these hight feeders
are not over-worked. Twelve or thirteen quarts
is about what a good feeder ought to have.
Some will eat sixteen quarts of oats a day, but
this is in my judgment more than should be
given, as when a liberal quantity of food is
given, there must be very active work to keep
the flesh down, and get rid of those superflui-
ties, inside and outside, which experience has
shown must be eliminated before the horse is
eapable of his best achievements.

If it were a mere question of health and
vigor, we might say the more oats the horse eats,
the more work he can do with impunity, and
the better his condition will be on the day of
the race; but it isnot a mere questions of bodily
health and vigor, for the extra amount of work
made necessary to get off the effects of the
extravagant quantity of food consumed, and
keep the horse only in proper flesh at the same
time, imposes a great task: upon the legs, which
are commonly the first part that gives way in
the: horse when the work is made fast and
severe. Unless there is something peculiar in
the animal and the circumstances of the ease,
thirteen quarts a day will be found sufficient.

Sweating.

During the preparation which precedes the
first, it will be found necessary to give the
horse one or two sweats. Whether it ought to
be ane or two must be indicated by the condi-

105

tion and nature of the animal, the races in
which he is engaged, and determined by the
judgment. The amount of clothes in which
he shall be sweated must be determined also
by the judgment of the trainer. Some may
require a blanket, and a hood, and a wrapper
around the neck, to start the prespiration
out of them; while there are others that
will sweat freely with but little clothes, and
scrape well when more have been thrown on at
the end of the jog. « One thing may certainly
be said, that a sweat obtained without the use
of heavy clothing is more satisfactory, and
better than one with it, provided the: latter:
method does not include a good deal more work
to get the sweat. Only a moderate quantity of
clothing and little work, while the horse is go-
ing, are the best for a sweat, if a good scrape
can thus be obtained.

When the horse comes from the drive and
is taken out of the wagon, he will soon be:
ready to scrape. That done he must be blank-
eted up again and walked about, out of the
draft. A favorable day for a sweat ought to be
taken advantage of as a matter of | course.
Another light scrape may be had after some.
time spent in walking in the blankets; but if:
the prespiration does not continue so as to’ give
this second scrape; it is not to be forced by:
more work in the clothes. To be of’ use in
itself, and as a satisfactory: indication that the
condition. of the horse is. advanced, it~ must
comeof itself. During the time this sweating
and. scraping process is in course of operation,
there should be no hurriedness. It usually iso
easy enough to get the sweat and ‘scrape, but ”
more difficult.to, cool. the horse ‘out. properly. ©

5* - a

106

In order to do this well, he is to be clothed
again, and led very gently about for some time,
so that he may become cool gradually, and the
prespiration may dry slowly. This walking is
to be out of all draft as much as possible;
and it will not do to hurry it over and go
to the stable, until the horse has cooled off
well. When the proper state has been reached,
the horse is to be taken into the stable and his
body to be well dressed. This done, he is to be
unclothed and again led inte the air. A few
swallows of gruel made of Indian meal or fine
shorts, from half a pint to pint of meal stirred
into a bucket of water, may now be given to
the horse, or water with the chill taken off may
be given as a substitute. When taken into the
stable again, which will be after a little more
walking, the legs are to be put in tubs of warm _
water, the body clothing being kept on. The
legs are then to be well washed with water and
castile soap, and when dried off to be bandaged.
These bandages should be of light flannel, and
they must not be put on tight so as to impede
circulation. A moderate degree of tightness
only is admissible.

When all is done, and the horse is nicely
cooled off, he may have a good scald mash, and
less hay than on other occasions, for the night.
On the morning after the sweat, the horse
ought to feel limber and in good spirits. In-
his jogging, which may be of two or three
miles, as you may judge him to need, he may —
have a couple of brushes, of a quarter of a
mile each, at nearly or quite full speed. When
horses have been well sweated, and have got
well cooled out of it, they are ambitious, and
fee] like going fast with ease; and will let out

107

with more energy than they have at any other
time during the preparation.

After the horse has had the sweat, as before
directed, the regular work is to be resumed
and carried on as before, and the feed is to be
the same as it was before. It must be borne in
mind that the ebject of the sweat is to loosen
the flesh, and remove the fat and other super-
fluities, which add nothing to the horse’s
strength, impede his wind, and make so much
more weight for him to carry in training and
in his races. On the other hand, the regular
work is not to take away the sustenance, but to
increase the volume of muscle, harden its con-
sistency, and increase its elasticity and strength.
Thus the sweats merely reduce, while the reg-
ular work reduces the soft parts to some extent,
of itself, but builds up and developes the
moving powers. It follows that when the horse
in hand is of a weak and soft habit, great care
must be taken, that he is not sweated too much
in clothes; for if he is, he will shrink in the
course of work, and become thin and dry after
one or two races. If the time of training
could be extended, and there is no danger to
the legs and constitution in making the work
severe, the sweats might be dispensed with
almost, or quite altogether. But this is not the
case, and therefore the sweat in clothes is re-
sorted to, in order to get rid of the superflui-
ties more rapidly and with less risk to the legs,
than the regular work would do.

Where the horse is of good constitution but
infirm in his legs, there must be more sweating
in clothes, and. less work without them, than in
other cases, In five or six days after the sweat,
the horse should be ready to stand a half mile

108

trial. Unless something has gone wrong, he
ought to be fit to go that distancé under the’
watch, and thus afford a certain indication as
to his speed and advance towards racing condi-
tion’ It will not be necessary to muzzle him
over night for this short trial, unless he isa
rank feeder. His oats are not to be reduced in
quantity, and he may have his usual allowance
of hay, unless he has been accustomed to eat a
great deal. His morning feed before the trial,
may be a little less than usual, and the water
to correspond. The half mile trial being found
satisfactory, the work will be carried on, as
before. iet him jog till he has emptied him- ~
self, then move him at three-quarters speed, —
with sharp ‘and lively brushes, to make him
square away and get up to his best rate. The
amount of work must be guaged by the judg-
ment and skill of the trainer, in view of how
the ‘horse’ goes on ‘and improves, ‘and of his”
known breed and character. LO. A if
It is‘quite certain that the the thorough bred’
will improve under an amount of work that
would:ruim a coarse bred horse: Therefore it”
is to be:expected that a well bred“ trotter’ will ©
take more work with advantage, provided his”
legs'stand, than one of a poorer grade of blood.”
Until:the horse has’ been” trained, it is impos- ~
sible’ to ‘say’ what he tay bear, and what is ©
required, to bring him quite fit’on the day that —
he-is to'trot for money. ‘Therefore it is neces-°~
sary:to be vigilant as the work goés on ‘from —
day to day, and: if) the’ slightest’ symptoms ~
appear ‘to indicate that the lmit has been
reached, the horse must'be eased. 9)
In five or six days ‘after the first trial, the
horse will :be fit to ‘be “tried “a mile if he’ has’

109

been doing well. It being found that he is all
right, this will do for a mile race. Even if the
race is two miles and repeat, it will sometimes
be best to avoid further trial. It depends upon
the condition and character of the horse, and
the state of his legs and feet. If he is known
to be a stout one, and his legs are all right, ,
another trial may be had prior to the two mile
race, and in this the horse may be repeated.
But if the speed is there and the condition is
good, it will be safest not to hazard more trial. ,
When the horse has appeared in his first race,
_and shown speed looked for, and given evi-
dence of good condition, he is not to, be treated
‘exactly as before in getting ready for the next.
His work is now to be reduced; for if he is.
kept at itjust as he was before his engagement, _
he is almost certain to lose speed. .

Should the race for which the horse is in_,
preparation be three mile heats, the work must |
be longer and not so sharp as for mile heats,
three in five, and two mile heats. The lasting |
qualites are to be developed. by more jogging,
and not so many spurts of speed in comparison. »
More time should be taken also for a three
mile race, than for mile heats three in five,
unless there is a shorter*engagement. About
three weeks before the race is to come. off he
may have his first trial, which will be a mile. __
The mile trial having been satisfactory, the
work is.to go on as before, and in. about ten
days the horse'will be ready for his final trial.

Ti getting ready for this’ his hay, and water —

over night may be reduced a little, and the
muzzle put on. The full allowance of oats is |
to be given. At the actual trial commence .,.
with a mile, at good speed. At the end of it.

110

blanket up and scrape, and walk about for half
an hour. Then repeat two miles out. If in
this the horse does well, shows speed and fresh-
ness, and finishes with energy, he is in condi-
tion, and capable of making the race. The
trials are never to be as long as the race for
which the horse is being trained. In the three
mile preparation there will be walking exercises
five or six miles a day, and three or four of
driving, with spurts of speed. From the time
of the final trial to the race, the work should
be the same as it was before, unless the wisdom
of a change is indicated by what took place in
the trial. If in that performance the horse
showed plenty of speed; but pulled up dis-
tressed at the end of two miles of repeat, it
would be evidence that he is not up to the mark
in condition, and the work should be increased.
In any case it will be of great importance to
have the wind clear for the race, and four or
five days prior to that event, the horse should
a light—a jog with a hood and wrapper, so as
to get a nice scrape, is all that will be required.
The cooling out to be as before directed.

Breeding.

One of the primary points of success is to
start right, and in no respect is this more essen-
tial than in breeding. The law of like pro-
ducing like is inexorable; consequently it is
seen that to raise good horses, good horses
must be bred from. Many farmers who are
otherwise keenly alive to their interest, are
singularly thoughtless and imprudent in this. |
If a mare is broken down and _ untit for labor,
no matter how coarse, badly formed, or what the

oer

111

evidence of constitutional unsoundness, she is
reserved to breed from. Again, the cheapest

horse, no matter how coarse if sleek and fat,

is selected and employed to cross with. The
most ignorant farmer is particular to select the
largest and soundest potatoes, the cleanest
wheat and oats, for seed, &c. He has learned
this is true economy. Yet there seems to be
the most utter disregard of this law of pru-
dence in the breeding of horses and farm stock
in general. During my long experience before
the public, I have endeavored to impress upon
farmers, when I could, that this sort of econ-
omy is like paying a quarter for a chicken, and
paying a dollar to take it home.

It costs just as much to raise a poor, coarse
blooded colt, as a fine blooded one. The cost
of feeding and care is really the same, the only
difference in cost being in that of the use of
the horse. The first will possibly sell when five
years old and trained to harness, for from a hun-
dred to a hundred and fifty dollars. The other
is worth from three hundred to a thousand, and
possibly more. The first will scarcely sell for
the cost of feeding and care. The second en-
sures a large profit, and this for a little addi-
tional first cost. And then the satisfaction of
having fine valuable animals, that can go is
if necessary, able to do any kind of wor
easily, and saleable for a large price, is a source

_of no ordinary pleasure and encouragement, if

from no other feeling than that of contributing
so largely to increased economy and wealth.
The fact is, breeding from poor unsound
horses is so much a detriment, that it would be
a damage to any one to be compelled to breed

_ from such stock, if given for the purpose. If
°

112

you wish to raise horses, select good sized, well
formed, sound, fine blooded, good stepping and
good colored mares, even though at an extra _
cost. The stallion should be free from all taint

of hereditary disease. Spavin, ringbone, splints,

poll evil, heaves, broken wind, contraction of,
the feet, weak eyes or blindness, are more or.
less constitutional; consequently there will be
predisposition to such. Strong circulation and .
constitutional vigor should be undoubted. This
is of course in a general sense. ‘To be partic-
ular requires first, intention as to purpose for
which intended. If heavy draft horses, evenly
trotting roadsters, or ponies, select both dam and
sire with special reference to the kind of stock
wanted. Ifthe mare is light boned or defective,
select a heavier boned horse, or that possesses
the contrast of greater strength or better points
in that respect. But to ensure much certainty
of what you would haye, the mare and_horse
should be as nearly the type as possible, though
not related. I would be yery particular about.
disposition and intelligence. The head shoul

be broad between the eyes, muzzle small, short
or middling short from eyes.to ears... Th
smaller and rounder the eyes, ‘the more positive , .
will be the temper. To have a horse sensitive,

intelligent, courageous, and naturally docile,
there must be large brain, the eye. must be
Lares, sticking well out, and mild in expression.

Of course it is understood BAD TREATMENT.
WILL SPOIL THE BEST TEMPERED HORSES, AND GOOD _.
TREATMENT WILL MAKE GOOD) SAFE ANIMALS om
THE WORST..

113
The Mare.

The mare is said to go with foal eleven
months or three hundred days; but it 1s not un-
common for mares to have fully developed foals
in much less time, and in-many instances mares
have been known to go four or five weeks be-
yond this time. Time should be so arranged
in putting mares, that the colts would come at
a time when there is some grass, as the mare
will do better not to be confined to dry feed.
The virgin mare, or one that has not had a colt,
for one season, should be put when she is found
in season. The mare that has had a colt will
be found in season, and should be put on the
ighth or ninth day after foaling ; some prefer
he eighth, others the eleventh. Good judges
laim that it is dangerous to go beyond the
tenth, as the mare is apt to come off her
heat soon after, and if allowed to go to a later

eriod, the sucking of the colt is likely to
reduce the mare too much to allow conception
to take place, and thus a year’s service of the
breeder is lost.

After putting a mare the days for trial are
the ninth after the service, the seventh after
nis, the fifth after this again. Some com-
mence again, commencing with the ninth day
nd follow up as before, making forty-two days.
wenty-one days being the period elapsing be-
tween a mare’s going out of heat, and coming
n again, making her periodical term thirty
ays. Twenty-one days is claimed to be suffi-
cient to prove a mare.

After conception, the mare if allowed to go
free will stand by a fence or tree in a partially
dormant position until after the heat passes

114

off, If at this time she is overworked or
scared, she will be likely to cast the conception,
and will require to be served again.

After the mare has been a few weeks with
foal, moderate work will not only do no injury,
but. will be of service- to her, but at no time
when she is with foal must she be placed ina
situation where she will be at all likely to re-
ceive severe jolts, kicks, or any other violence.
Another great preventative to conception, is
turning mares out with string proud or badly
castrated horses, as they are a cause of positive
annoyance to them, and must not be allowed,
as such annoyance greatly cudannry the cer-
tainty of conception.

A fine mare was put to a horse, she was
proved on the regular trial day, and showed all
the signs of conception. Three weeks after
being served she stood quietly by a fence, and
the owner coming up, thinking her sick, started
her suddenly. The fright so shocked her ner-
vous system that she sickened, lay down and
cast the embryo. Another in the same neigh-
borhood aborted by a horse teasing her.

A gentleman who had puta mare that had
bred several colts, but at this time and also the
year following, she was grazed in a pasture
adjoining one in which a string proud horse was
kept. She was teased by him. The conse-
quence was she had no colts for two years.
The cause of mischief was finally mistrusted,
the mare was put in another field away from
the horse, and she did not fail to breed after.
wards.

It is a well known fact also, that if a mare is
near food she likes, and is denied being given
some of it, there is meee of abortion being pro-

115

duced. I might enumerate a great many cases
illustrative of the bad effects of causes in
themselves slight, to produce abortion. Much
care is necessary. Persons owning mares that
have failed to conceive, should be unusually
cautious, as mares having aborted once, are pre-
disposed to do so sometimes by the most trifl-
ing causes.

It is a noticeable fact also, that subjecting
the mare to abuse, or great fear from any cause,
effects the character of the colt powerfully.

Calling the attention of a class lately to these
causes of mischief, one of the gentlemen cor-
roborated my assertions by making the follow-
ing statement: He and a neighboring farmer
owned two cows. His was extremely wild and
intractable; the other was very gentle. The
informant said he treated his cow with cure
and kindness. The man owning the gentle
cow was in the habit of making his dog drive
her up to milk, the dog causing her to run and
be much excited. The cows had fine bull
calves. The owner of the wild cow bought the
calf of the other, and in time broke them to
work, and he said that the barking of a dog or
any noise, would make the steer he bought act
wild and foolish; that he was naturally wild
and untamable, while the other he raised him-
self, from the wildest animal, was as gentle as
any steer.

I could refer to many interesting instances of
colts showing the marked effects of abuse and
excitement on the mother. This is not to be
wondered at, since it is seen that the brain con-
trols and regulates the action of the developing
brain and nervous system of the fetus or
colt. Such causes should be carefully guarded

eae

116

A stallion of a known vicious character,
should not be bred from. The horse should
be in vigorous health, and this imples that he
has been subjected to moderate but regular
exercise, during the season. <A horse however,
that is driven and hurried from place to place,
over-heated perhaps, and made to cover from
three to seven mares, should be regarded as
unsafe. They are not sure, and the progeny of
such are liable to lack vitality.

After the colt comes, the mare should be
allowed to stand idle for three or four weeks,
until she gets her milk and has time to regain
her strength; and the foal also requires time to
acquire strength. It is injurious for the colt to
run with the dam on hard roads, to an extent
at least that would strain or exhaust. Above
all other times in the life of the horse, at this
period, and during the first winter, bad treat-
ment is most injurious. The mare and colt
should be well fed, and protected from storms.
The theory of working a mare hard, and half
starving the colt, is the poorest kind of econ-
omy, since the mare needs generous feed and
rest, to renew her strength and make her milk,
by which of course the colt is nourished and
made to grow. When size and strength will
indicate that it is time to wean, which is usually
in five or six months, put the colt in a quiet
pasture, away from the mare, where it should
be closely looked after. A little oats, (better if
bruised,) should be given daily.

The conclusion of careful breeders is, that it
is much better for a colt to run in pasture, than
to be confined in a stable. If the colt is in-
tended for farm use, castration may be per-
formed when six months old; if however, the

117

withers are light, it should be postponed until
the head and neck fills up to the degree re-
quired, and this may require from one to two
years, or even more. If the head is large and
heavy, early castration is advisable. Colts
should be generously fed, and protected from
the inclemency of the weather in winter. They
should be treated gently. May be broken early
to harness, if treated gently and with care.
This however is hazardous, as there is danger
of over driving young colts if they are driven
at all. Many seem to take pride in trials to
which they subject two or three year old colts.
It is not what they can do, but what they ought
to be required to do.

To become well posted on this interesting
subject, the reader should get the works of dif-
ferent authors. <A little money employed for
books on this as well as kindred subjects, will
be found to be wisely used, but they should be
read carefully. The limit of my space, even if
I felt competent to develop this subject, will
not admit of more than a few general remarks.

Stable.

The cost of a properly constructed well-ven-
tilated stable, is but little if any more than is
necessary for a poorly constructed one. My
observation in traveling during the past eight
years, caring for my horses in different stables
almost daily during this time, extending over
nearly twenty states, has revealed to me both
unpardonable ignorance and carelessness, in
the arrangement and construction of stables.
This is especially noticeable in the Middle
States, and partakes of the economy illustrated

118

in the majority of dwelling houses. They may
look well outside, and may be even strongly
and expensively constructed, but without scarce-
ly any regard to ventilation. Small rooms after
being used to sleep in, are arranged for use by
simply adjusting the clothes on the bed, shut-
ting down the windows if open, (which is
usually but seldom,) the door is closed and
suffered to be so till again oceupied. The com-
monly used feather bed soon becomes fetid,
often so musty as to be strongly noticeable to
the feelings on the instant of entering the room.
The air is contaminated with this and other ani-
mal effluvia; there is no circulation, the window
is usually fast, or if opened exposes to a draught
of air still more dangerous to health. Wealth,
the pride of intelligence, and beauty, fade into
insignificance, when pained with the prostra-
tion of a nervous head from such a cause.

This is a fault that should be carefully
guarded against in construction, by making
ventilators over the doors, and admitting of the
windows being raised or lowered, and certainly
every reasonably intelligent housekeeper should
see that beds and rooms are thoroughly ventil-
ated, after being used.

Precisely so in theory is the arrangement of
the stable. It is usually a closed box over a
cellar perhaps half filled with water and ma-
nure, that throws upward through the floor a
deadly miasma, that lays the foundation of dis-
ease. <A large rack is crammed with hay, the
dust and dirt of which is forced against the
horse’s nose. The manger is half filled with
filth and trash. The bedding, thoroughly im-
pregnated with amonia, is rolled under the
manger in the morning, to saturate and poison

119

every thing above it; and here the horse is
compelled to stand and feed, constantly breath-
ing upon this mass of hay, with amonia usually
strong enough to make the eyes smart in half
a minute, continually evaporating and poison-
ing the air.

Bear in mind that I have no selfish object in
view, more than that-of pointing to defects it is
true economy to correct, and it is my highest
duty to bring to the attention of all entitled
to my services.

A stable should be large, well ventilated, but

warm and well lighted. The stalls should be
at least five feet wide for work horses, and if
tine horses that are worked but little, they
should be large enough to enable stepping
around freely. If there is room, a box stall is
the best, but it should not be close. The door
at least should be made of slats, and a window
above the head, so arranged that it can be >
thrown open, to give light and ventilation.
The door should be large, to preclude injury
by striking the sides or hips against the posts,
and there should be a reasonably large yard,
which should be well fenced. If a manger and
rack of the common form across the stall is
used, I would suggest an improvement.
_ First, the manger should be so constructed
that the horse cannot waste the feed while eat-
ing, yet should not be very high, (the top about
three and a half or four feet from the floor.)

Second, the rack should not slope out over
the manger and horse’s head, which makes it
not only difficult for the horse to pull the hay
out, but causes seed and dirt to fall into his
eyes and mane, and the dust to be brought to
the nose and inhaled. The front of the rack

120

should be upright or purpendicular, and the
back so inclined that the hay will all the time
be in the horse’s reach. The bottom should be
open like the front, so that the dust can drop
through to the floor.

The best form of manger I have seen, both
for convenience, safety and health, are those so
constructed that there is an alley in front of
the head. The place for hay is a sort of box,
on one side of which is a feed box, which
should be large enough to prevent throwing
the feed out while eating. The hitching ring
should be on the off or farther side, to prevent
the strap being caught by the foot. The
manger should be about on a level with the
shoulders. The nearer the horse is made to
imitate his position when eating in the field
the better. But this is not admissible in the
construction of the manger, since the horse
would waste the feed. This form of feeding
box and manger is cleaner. There is not that
temptation to give more hay at a time than the
horse may need. The manger can be reached
easily and safely; in feeding the hay is easily
thrown upon the floor, where it can be easily
shook up and thrown fresh and palatable to the
horse. It obviates the usual temptation of a
receptacle under the manger, in which to pack
during the day a lot of poisonous bedding, and
finally, there is the best of ventilation, as the
air can freely circulate in front of the manger.
Every stable should have a sort of chimney, or
opening on the top, to allow of the bad air to
pass out freely. The windows should be so
placed as to admit light enough, that the ordi-
nary work of the stable can be done without
opening the doors, which should have shutters

¥2)

to enable darkening the stable if necessary,
when flies are troublesome, or to permit sleep
in the day time, which is often necessary, and
finally, the walls, if any, in front of the horses,
should not be, as is often done, whitewashed a
pure white, as it injures the eyes. The color
should be made neutral by adding something
brown or dark.

Cellar stables or those that are underground,
admit of so little light and ventilation that they
-are not safe, and should be discarded. The
wisdom of doing so may become more appar-
ent after losing one or two horses with some
form of acute inflammation.

Feeding.

Hay, corn fodder, oats and corn, constitute
the principal food of horses in this country.
Hay and oats in the Northern States, fodder
and corn in the South. The food should be in
_ quality and quantity to impart strength, vitality
and elasticity, and this requires some discrimi-
nation and care, as the food should be harmo-
nized both to the condition, and the severity of
the labor to which the horse is subjected. As
arule, the stomach should not be distended
with food when prolonged, energetic effort is
necessary, as the heart and lungs would there-
by be much impeded in their action, and con-
gestion and rapturing of or enlarging of the
air cells of the lungs may result. This is to be
especially guarded against in the feeding of
hay. Greedy eaters can and will gorge them-
selves by eating so much hay as to be unfit for
active labor, and is usually shown to result in
heaves or broken wind. Heaves are always

122

found in the teamsters’ or carters’ stables,
where there is no care in feeding. The disease
is always found among horses of the above
class, but never found among racing horses,
from the fact that the utmost prudence and care
is used in selecting the food, and feeding in
smaller quantities, or in making the relation
more perfect to the wants of the system.

It has been demonstrated beyond doubt that
the reason horses improve so much in wind by
eating prairie hay is, that it is so coarse that
horses cannot eat it fast enough to over-
load the stomach. ‘The quantity of hay should
be earefully regulated, and never as much given
as the horse will eat if at all voracious. The
majority of owners pack a large rack full,
allowing either liberty to eat too much, or
-making it upalatable and unhealthy, by being
breathed upon. Frem eight to ten pounds is
about the average quantity for an ordinary
roadster to be allowed in twenty-four hours,
more or less, according to size, the kind of
work, and the quantity of grain given. Dusty”
or mouldy hay should not be fed, as it is liable
to produce various forms of disease. |

All food should be clean, and in quality per-
feet. Hay is most perfect when it is about a

ear old. Horses wotld perhaps prefer earlier,
but it is neither so wholesome nor so nutritious,
and may purge. When it isa year old it should
retain much of its green color and agreeable
smell.* The blades of corn pulled and cured

* Notre 1.—In packing or stacking hay, salt should be
_ slightly sprinkled through it so as to destroy insects, It also

aids in preserving it bright, and makes it more palatable and
healthy for the horse. . inte «

s

124

in the summer are unquestionably much better
than hay. I should certainly prefer this kind
of fodder to any kind of hay, for fine horses.
It is strange that it is not prized more highly
North. )

Oats make more muscle than corn. Corn
makes fat and warmth. Hence, the colder the
weather, the more corn may be given, and the
harder the work, the more oats. Oats should
be a year old, heavy, dry and sweet. New oats
will weigh from ten to fifteen per cent. more
than old ones; but the difference is principally
water. New oats are said to be more difticult
to digest, and when in considerable quantity
are apt to cause flatulency and derangement
of the stomach and bowels. The same may
be said of corn. If not sound and dry, it may
be regarded even much more dangerous than
oats, and should not be fed. Doing so will be
at the hazard of the consequences above named.

The quantity of oats given daily may vary
from eight to sixteen quarts. If the horse
is large, and the work is severe, a little more
may be given. Experience proves that some
mildly cooling laxative food should be occa-
sionally given. Corn should be fed in the ear, |
and like oats must be regulated in quantity to
the size and labor of the animal; from five to
twelve good sized ears are a feed. I give g
larger proportion of feed at night, and less in
the morning and noon. There is ample time
for digestion during the night. There is not
during the day, if the labor is severe. A bran
mash, made by pouring boiling water on eight
or ten quarts of wheat bran, covered over until
cool and fed at night, from once to three times -
a week, is the finest and best.

124

Carrots are a good laxitive and alterative
before frost, but are too cold and constipating
during cold weather. They may be fed in
Oczober, November and December, but in the
Northern States not later, (I am governed by
the judgment of one the best veterinary sur-
geons in the United States, based upon careful
and critical observation of effects on a large
number of horses, on this point.) I feed Irish
potatoes, from one to three quarts, with the
usual quantity of grain, from two to three or
four times a week, and would recommend their
use. Think their value cannot be over esti-
mated. Feeding a small quantity of roots and
giving bran mashes, keep the bowels open and
the system in a uniform, healthy condition,
Without them constipation is possible, and this
is one of the primary causes of darrheea, colic,
or inflammation of the bowels. If it is desired
to make a horse fat in a short time, feed corn
meal and shorts, with eut straw, to which add
a pint of cheap molasses. Nothing like this
tor recruiting and filling up a horse that is out
of sorts or poor. If the horse eats too fast, put
a few round stones in the feed box. He must
now pick the food from among the stones, and
thus be compelled to eat slowly.

If the horse is exhausted, or when sufficient
ime cannot be allowed for him to eat and par-
tially digest a full meal, he may be greatly
refreshed by a draught of warm gruel, or in
summer of cold water containing a small quan-
tity of meal. To give some idea of the routine
of feeding and watering when great care is
necessary, I include the system of feeding and
watering Mr. Bonner’s famous trotting horse,
Dexter. ; ta f

125

* At six every morning, Dexter has all the
water he wants, and two quarts of oats. After
eating, he is ‘walked’ for half an hour’ or
more, then cleaned off, and at nine has two
quarts more of oats. If no drive is on the card
for afternoon, he is given a half to three-
quarters of an hour of gentle exercise. At one
o'clock he has oats again, as before, limited to
two quarts.

‘““H'rom three to four, he is driven twelve to
fifteen miles; after which he is cleaned off and
rubbed thoroughly dry.

“Tie has a bare swallow of water on return
from drive, but is allowed free access to his
only feed of hay, of which he consumes from
five to six pounds.

“If the drive has been a particularly sharp
one, he is treated as soon as he gets in, toa
quart or two of oat meal gruel; and when thor-
oughly cooled, has half a pail of water and

three quants of oats, with two quarts of bran |

moistened with hot water.

“‘ Before any specially hard day’s work or trial
of his speed, his allowance of water is still
more reduced.”

Feeding Colts.

When the colt is weaned, which is usually
when from four to six months old, he should be
put in a back lot, out of sight of the mare.
Should be carefully looked after during the fall
and winter. There is no period of a horse’s
life that repays generous feeding and care so
well as this of the first winter. He should have
a good warm yard, on the south side of the
barn, to run in during pleasant weather, and a

126

roomy box stall at night and during inclement *
periods. The feed should be good, bright hay,
and plenty of it, two or three quarts of carrots
or potatoes, to which from a pint to a quart of
oats, should be given daily. All successful
breeders of good horses are specially careful
during the first fall and winter to protect colts
from inclemency and feed generously.

Watering.

Ifa large quantity of cold water is taken
into the stomach while the system is excited
and sensative, by the circulation being so in-
creased as to open the pores of the skin freely,
it is liable to so chill the stomach as to derange
the circulation and close the pores of the skin,
and thus excite some one of the common ali-
mentary derangements of colic or inflammation
of the bowels. Hard water, especially cold well
water, is more liable to cause mischief in this
way than soft water. Hard water will derange
some horses, so much as to show an almost im-
mediate effect of causing the hair to look rough
or stare, the appetite deranged, if not indeed
preceded by colic or inflammation of the bow-
els; also, horses that are raised and worked in
country, where the water is strongly impreg-
nated with lime, are troubled a good deal
with intestinal calculi, z. e, stone in the bladder.
Hence soft water should be given, if convenient;
and if well water, especially while warm, it
should either have the chill taken off or be given
very sparingly.
The best time to water is about half an hour
before feeding. While driving, the rule should
¢ be little and often. None, or only a swallow

127

-or two, should be given at the close of a drive,
until cool. If very warm, the horse should be
walked moderately where there is not a current
of air to strike him, from ten to thirty minutes,
as may be found necessary. If, then, any dan-
ger is apprehended, the chill should be taken
off the water if very cold and given sparingly a
few swallows ata time. ‘The common custom
is to give about a half bucket of water. The
safest course would be to give less and repeat.
The rule should be, for ordinary use, to give
small quantities often during the day, and the
animal to pursue his journey or labor immedi-
ately after. If allowed to stand, the system is
chilled. The absorbents are closed, which is
the common cause of Laminitis or Founder.
Although this disease may not develop itself
until twelve or twenty-four hours afterwards.
Any cause which will chill the system—either
cold winds or cold water—while the animal i
warm, will produce the above disease.

128

TEACHING TRICKS.

Do not hurry a horse too fast in his tuition.
If you undertake to learn too much, or too fast
in the start, or indeed at any time, you only
confuse or discourage. Do so much as the
horse can comprehend and appreciate, and daily
progress.

Teaching to Follow.

Tf it is desired to simply teach the horse to
follow promptly with halter or bridle on, apply
the war bridle (small loop); when he comes
round promptly, stand off a short distance and
say, ‘Come here, sir.” If he does not come
to you,:give a sharp pull, gradually changing
positions and going a little farther. When he
comes, promptly caress, if not, pull sharply, re-
peating in this way until you can make him
eome to you promptly in any direction.

‘To Make Follow with the Whip.

The simplest and easiest way of doing this,
is to work up sharply with the war bridle, and
when the horse comes around promptly, take a
short blunt whip, step up to the shoulder, and
while holding the bridle loose in the left band,
pass the whip gently over the shoulder, and tap
lightly with the end on the offside of the head,
This will annoy the horse and cause him to
move the head a little from it, toward you; in-
stantly stop and caress, then repeat. the tapping ~

*

129

again; should he attempt to run from you, hold
him by the bridle. Repeat in this way until the
horse will step toward you promptly. Then
touch the whip over the hips and say, ‘“‘ Come,
sir. If he comes up to you, or shows the least
disposition to do so, caress, and so continue
until he will come up promptly. Now step a
little sideways and ahead and say, “‘ Come, sir.”
If he should step after you, caress, if not, touch
the lash over the hips. In a short time the
horse will learn to step to you, and follow
promptly. When he will do this, stand him in
a corner of the room, stand a little in front of
him and touch him lightly with the whip on
the fore-legs and say, *‘Come here, sir.” At
the least intimation of coming, stop and caress.
Then repeat, touching with the whip. If he
moves to you a little, stop and caress, and in
this way repeat until he will come to you
promptly. Then get a little farther from him
and repeat in the same manner until he will
learn to hurry up to you, to get away from the
whip. Should he bolt away, put on the bridle,
and hold the end in the left hand. You can
_now hold him by the bridle when he attempts
to run, until he finds he cannot get away, and
will come up promptly. :

This lesson should be made very thorough
before there is an attempt to take the horse out
of doors, and then in a small yard. If this’ is
not convenient, put on the bridle, having good
length of cord, and hold in the left hand loosely.

If the horse is of a bad character, the follow-
ing method may be used: Turn the horse into
a room or small yard well enclosed. Provide
yourself with a good bow whip. The’ horse
will feel uneasy and look around at you, and

ve :

180

then perhaps for some place by which to escape. ~
Walk up to him, and as he runs into a corner
apply the lash sharply under his flanks, follow-
ing him up, making the whip sting keenly
around the hind legs. When he stops or turns
his head toward you, stop instantly, reach out
the hand, at the same time approaching gently.
Should he run or turn around to kick, whip in-
stantly as before, and so continue until you can
approach and caress the head and neck a little.
Then say, ‘‘ Come, sir,’ at the same time touch-
ing the whip lightly over the hips. If he comes,
or shows the least disposition to do so, caress
and speak encouragingly. If he runs, whip as
before, and so repeat until the horse will come
up promptly when touched by the whip.
As the object is to make the horse honest in
following, it is necessary to make him feel that
you whip him only for resistance, encouraging
and flattering for every intimation of obedience,
until he realizes his safety from the whip to be
tojcome to you.

To Lie Down.

Tie the bridle reins into a knot back of the
“neck. Throw your strap over the back, under
the body and tie to the near foot, below the fet-
lock. Now pass the right hand well over the
back and take a short hold of the strap. Cause
the horse to step toward you and pull the foot
up. ‘Then pass the left hand around the reing
and pull back and down upon them in sucha
manner as to turn the head a little to the off
side, at the same time pulling down steadily,
but firmly on the strap over the back with the
right hand. As the horse goes down, gradually

181

pull the near rein, so as to bring the head to
the left, at the same time pressing down and
from you firmly with the right, until the horse
will lie down. Pass the end of the strap now
through the ring of the bit and draw through
gently, step over the neck, and as the horse at-
tempts to get up, pull him back, until he lies
quiet. Rub and caress him, and after lying a
few. minutes, say, ‘“‘Get up, sir.’ Repeat in
this way for a few times until the horse will lie
down readily. Then while holding him on or

near the knee with the strap, hit him on the
shin of the other with a little whip, until he
will bring it under and lie down. After a
while he can be made to come on his knees and |
lie down by simply pulling the head down a
little and hitting the shins with the whip, at the
same time saying, “Lie, down, sir,” repeating
antil the horse will lie down to the motion of
the whip. This is about the easiest and most
practical way to treat a horse to lie down.
There is no danger of injuring the knees, or of
causing accident. If the reader should not get
sleight of laying a horse down in this way, cover ©
the floor deeply with straw, tie up the fore-leg, _
use the strap on the near one over the back as ~
before, until the horse will lie down, repeating ©
as may be necessary until the horse will lie’

down to the motion of the whip, as before ex- —
plained.

To Sit Up.

When the horse will lie down promptly, put
on him a common collar, and while being down
take two pieces. of: rope,. or.anything suitable,...

about ten feet each in length. Tie the ends
around the hind-feet, carry them, forward be-.

182)

tween the fore-legs and bring them once around
the collar. Now step on his tail, take the bridle
reins in the right hand, while you hold the ends
of the ropes firmly in the left. Give a little
jerk on the reins and say, *‘ Get up, sir.”” When
the horse throws out the forward feet and
springs to raise himself on the hind-feet, he
finds himself unable to complete the effort, on
account of the hind-feet being tied forward
under him, and so he brings himself in a sitting
position. Instantly step forward, holding the
ropes firmly, rub and caress the head and neck
a little for a few seconds, then as you see the
effort to keep up becoming tiresome, let loose
and say, “Get up, sir.” By repeating in this
way afew times the horse will soon learn to sit
up when commanded without being tied.

To Make a Bow.

Take a pin in your right hand, between the
thumb and fore-finger, and stand before, but a
little to the left, of your horse. Then prick him
on the breast lightly, as if a fly biting, which
to relieve he will bring down his head, which
you will accept as yes, and reward for by cares-
sing and feeding as before. Then repeat, and
so continue until he will bring his head down
the moment he sees the least motion of the
hand toward his breast, or substitute some sig-
nal which he will understand readily.

To Say No.

Stand near the shoulder, holding the pin in
your hand, with which prick him lightly on the
withers, to drive which away he will shake his
head. You then caress as before, and so repeat-

133

ing, until he will shake his head at the least
indication of touching him with the pin; you
can train your horse so nicely in this way in a
short time as to cause him to shake his head or
bow by merely turning the hand a little, or
moving it slightly toward him.

To Kiss.

_ Teach him first to take an apple out of your

hand. Then gradually raise the hand nearer
your mouth, at each repetition, until you re-
quire him to take it from your mouth, holding
it with the hand, telling him at the same time
to kiss you. He will soon learn to reach his
nose up to your mouth; first to get the apple,
but finally, because commanded to do so,
Simply repeat until the horse understands the
trick thorougbly.

To Shake Hands.

Tie a short strap, or piece of cord, to the for-
_ ward foot, below the fetlock. Stand directly
before the horse, holding the end of this strap
or cord in your hand, then say, “Shake hands,
sir,’ and immediately after commanding him
‘to do so; pull upon the strap, which will bring
his foot forward, and which you are to accept as
shaking hands, thanking him for it, by caress-
ing and feeding, and so repeat until, when you
make the demand, he will bring the foot for-
ward in anticipation of having it pulled up.
This is a very easy trick to teach the horse. By
a little practice a horse may be easily trained to
approach, make a bow, shake hands and follow
like a dog, lie down, sit up, etc., which make
_ him appear both polite and pleasant.

184

SHORING.

The hoof of the horse in a state of nature, is
adapted only to a grassy surface. Here, the
natural wear and tear of the hoof is just
compensated by its growth. When the wear is
made greater than this by driving on hard
roads, the horn is worn down so rapidly, that
the vascular part of the foot would soon be
exposed, and the horse would in consequence
become lame.

The first attempts towards rendering the
horse useful on hard ground, were directed to
hardening the hoof. Hence, it was recom-
mended, according to history, that the feet of
horses should be kept free from moisture, that
their hardness might not be impaired. Several
applications in the form of ointments and lotions
were used, with. the intention of toughening .
the hoof, but without avail. In large cities the
roads were paved with large flat stones, to.

185

diminish as much as possible the wearing ot .
the horny substance of the foot.

The first step towards shoeing horses was
by fastening a sort of sandal to the foot, by
means of straps or strings, and as experience
enabled, improvements, plates of metal, were
used, but fastened to the foot in the same
clumsy manner. It is supposed that plates of
metal, or shoes were used, and attached to the
feet in this way for nearly a thousand years,
before it was found practical to fasten them
with nails. The first effort to fasten shoes to .
the feet by nailing, was by driving the nails
down through the crust and shoe, and riveting
on the underside. It is not Known by whom
or exactly when this improvement. was made,
or when the present system was introduced.
In some parts of Illinois and the great plains of
the West, where the ground is free from stone
and gravel, it is not found necessary to shoe
horses, and now in some countries not advanced
in civilization we find greater or less degrees of
rude skill used in the method and means of
protecting the feet.

The Icelanders form a piece of ram’s horn
into shape, and fasten it to the foot by means
of horn pins. The antlers of deer are used for
the same purpose, according to the accounts of
travelers, by people of other remote regions.
In Japan sandals of plaited straw are used,
fastened with straw bands around the fetlocks.
The Arabians use a simple plate of iron with
a hole in the centre, nailed on.

The system of shoeing now in general use,
is to fit.a simple flat piece of iron, with or with- .
out corks, to the form of the foot, and nailed
firmly to the wall of the hoof. If this is done

186)

so as to restrict the natural freedom of the
crust, or in any way induce to an unnatural
condition, that will cause irritation and injury
of the laminee, or fleshy structure connecting:
and between the hoof and coffin bone, a diseased
condition is produced, that results, toa greater
or less degree, in some one of the causes of
maliformation and lameness to which horses
are subject.

The principal causes of mischief from shoe-
ing, directly or indirectly, are: First, lack of
skill and prudence in paring the hoof, so as to
bring it back to its natural bearing and condi-
tion. Second, in fitting the shoe so as to bring
the bearing even and naturally on the the rim
of the hoof only, and nailing it on so as to
interfere as little as possible with the freedom
and enlargement of the hoof as it grows; and
Third, in permitting the hoof and frog becom-
ing unnaturally dry and hard. In its natural
state the foot will be found to be almost round,
and very elastic at the heels; the frog broad,
plump, and of a soft yielding character ; the
commissures open and well defined, and the
sole coneave; the outside of the crust from
the heel to the toe, increased from a slight
bevel to an angle of about forty-five degrees.
Consequently, as the hoof grows it becomes
wider and longer in proportion to the degree
horn is secreted, and narrower and shorter to the
degree that horn is cut away from the ground
surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely and accu-
rately to the foot, after being dressed down
well, it would be found too narrow and short
for the same foot in the course of a few weeks.
Consequently, if the shoe is nailed on firmly,
as is usually done, well back to the quarters,

1387

as the foot grows the restraint of the shoe pre-
vents the foot becoming wider as before. The
longer the shoe is kept on, the more increased
the growth of the horn, consequently, the
greater pressure upon the quarters.

Secondly, if the bearing surface of the shoe
is concave, as is usually the case, there is not
only increased lateral resistance upon the quar-
ters on account of the restraint of the nails, but
the tending of the heels to slide inward as weight
is thrown upon the foot, causes so much pressure |
upon the laminated structure connecting the
hoof and coffin bone, as to cause it to become
inflamed and injured. This tendency is in-
_ creased by allowing the hoof and frog to become
dry and hard. The increased heat induced by
inflammation causes an increased absorption of
moisture. ‘he dryer and harder the hoof be-
comes, the more it is contracted in size. Hence
we see three disturbing causes of injury and
contraction. If, also, the sole should rest upon
the shoe at the heels, or in fastening the shoes
to the feet the nails were driven too near, or
into the quick, there would be inereased injury,
which would cause a change of structure, or
the formation of matter that must cause serious
or incurable lameness if not properly treated.

In trimming and preparing the hoof for the
shoe, the object should be to bring it back to
its natural position, bearing and form. If the
shoes have been on a month, cut away the horn
grown, more or less, according to the length
of time the shoes have been on, and the quan-
tity of horn grown. Bring down the bearing
surface to almost a level with the live horn of
the sole, making it level. If the foot is in a
healthy condition it is seldom necessary. to in- ——

188

terfere with the sole or frog. The sole and
frog throw off old horn by exfoliation. Some-
times the shoe extends so close and so far over
the sole, as to prevent this old horn from either
wearing or scaling off the sole. When this
condition is found, it should be dressed out,
particularly at the heels, at the angles formed
between the bars and the crust. The buttress
is usually too large and too square-edged to do
this well. There is danger with it of cutting
too deep in some places and not deep enough
in others. An English shave, with the edere
turned back, like that of an instrament with
which to measure boards, is just the thing for
this purpose. The bars should not be cut lower
than the rest of the heel, so that the bearing
should be equal upon the shoe.

The bearing surface should be leveled down
earefully, and left a little higher than the sole,
so that there can be no bearing of the sole
upon the shoe. If the foot is flat and will not
bear this, then the shoe must be lowered from
the bearing of the sole. No definite rule can
be given by which to explain how much must
be cut away from the whole or any part of the
foot. If the heels are strong and upright they
should be cut down so that the bearing will be
level, and the hoof look natural.

The Shoe

Should be proportioned in weight to the size of
the foot and work of the horse. If the hoof
is thin shelled and the_ horse is not worked
much, the shoe should be light; but if the
work is hard the shoes should be rather heavy.
The form and size of the shoe should be

139

adapted to that of the foot, of an equal thick-
nes3 from the heel to the toe, perfectly level
on the bearing surface.

SHOE PROPERLY FITTED.

There is usually great carelessness in the
manner of fitting and adapting the shoe to the
size and form of the foot. The shoe should be
fitted in size, so that when the hoof is rounded
off a little from the clinches down, it will come
out even with the crust from the toe to the turn
of the heels, becoming a little wider at the
heels, and long enough to extend back of the
extreme bearing about a quarter of an inch,
(see cut.)

The growth of the foot requires that the shoe
should be Jong and wide enough at the heels to
allow for the natural enlargement of the hoof
in the time it is intended the shoe should be
on, before being reset; for as the foot enlarges
by growth, the shoe is brought forward, until it
loses its original proportion and becomes too
short and narrow, to allow for which, the shoe

140

must be left as much wider and Jonger than the
foot at the heels as it is supposed the foot will
grow in the time it is intended the shoe should
be on.

BEARING SURFACE LEVEL.

There is a very serious, though unintentional,
fault in shoes as generally fitted. It is custom-
ary to lower the bearing surface of the shoe
which is intended to be, and should be, per-
fectly level. But from carelessness or igno-
rance, they are in almost every instance largely
coneave at the heels, or the seating (the inside
edge, which is usually lowered from the bearing of
the sole,) is earried so far back at the heel that
if the shoe is in the least too wide for the foot
the heels rest on the coneave surface of this

141

seating, which must force lateral restraint upon
the heels, by their constant inward action when
weight is thrown upon the foot, and thus cause
contraction and soreness of the feet, which if
continued may result in very serious conse-
quences. This should be strictly guarded

GROUND SURFACE—POSITION OF NAILS.

against. The part upon which the heels rest
should be perfectly level.

Nail holes and Nailing;

A great deal depends also on the location of
the nail holes in the shoe, and the size and driv-
ing of the nails. If the smith were to examine

142

the thickness of the hoof of an ordinary well-
bred horse, he would be perhaps surprised at
its thinness, and he would see the importance,
in the first place, of making the holes near the
edge well forward in the toe, and of putting the
shoe so far under the shell, as to betray into
driving the nails too deeply into it, or of hav-
ing the nails so large as to split and shatter the
hoof. If the nail holes are made well into the
shoe, and the shoe should be a little narrow or
short, and be set well under the hoof, the nails
must be driven very near, or into the quick,
which must result in serious lameness or injury.
Two objects therefore must govern the smith
in punching the nail holes. First, making -
them so far forward in the toe as to prevent
needless.restraint upon the quarters. Second,
so near the edge of the shoe as not to endanger
driving the nails too deep in the crust. The
nails should not be large, nor a greater number
driven than is barely necessary to retain the
shoe. :

It must be remembered that, at best, the hoof
is greatly shattered by the nails; that the horn
is thickest at the tee, and the nailing well back
tothe quarters not only exposes to greater dan-
ger of pricking, but causes an injurious pres-
sure upon the heels. If the horse is not used
much, and the heels are rather square and up-
right, the quarters must be kept free. Have
the nail holes made well forward on both sides,
three on the inner and four on the outer side,
or nail well back on the outside quarter, but
well forward in the toe inside. As the foot
now grows, the shoe will be carried to that side
and forward, leaving the inside quarter free,
thereby,making both quarters as independent

143

of the restraint of the shoe as it is possible to
do. Any increase in the number of nails to re-
tain the shoe more firmly must not imply free-
dom to.drive them back in the quarters. Let
the holes be punched closer together in the toe.
Care should be used not to file too deeply under
the clinches, as is common, and in finishing off,
the file should not be touched above the
clinches, and below only enough to round the
toe a little. Thereisa kind of penchant in most
smiths to improve the shape of the foot by rasp-
ing and filing the whole surface to the hair.
The outside of the hoof is much more dense
and hard than the inside, the small spaces be-
tween the fibres of the horn are filled with a
soft substance, the better to prevent. a too rapid
evaporation of moisture. If the whole surface
of the hoof is rasped, the best part is not only
likely to be cut away, but too rapid evaporation
takes place, and the hoof is not only thereby
weakened, but becomes dry, hard and contract-
ed. If the horse is not used much, and stands
on dry plank, this condition must be produced.

Contraction.

A contracted condition of the feet is pro-
duced so gradually that the owner may not
notice the alteration of structure and dimin-
ished size of the hoof, until the horse becomes
so tender footed and unable to travel, that it is
found necessary to do something to restore the
animal to a condition of usefulness. The hoofs
seem to hold the same relation in the protection
of the horse’s feet, that boots or shoes do to
those of the human feet. They are insensible
horn, provided by nature for this purpose. . If

144

like boots, from any cause they restrict too
much the freedom of the circulation, or press
upon the sensitive laminge at any point, there
will be the same consequences of inflammation.
This is to be looked for at the heels and quar-
ters, as by lateral restraint upon the quarters or
under pressure of the shoe on the sole, or both,
inflammation and injury is caused, inducing
tenderness and lameness, and ultimately a
change of structure that will make the horn
unsound.

The first and primary object is to look for
eause and remove it. Though usually given
but little consideration by authors, contraction
is, directly or indieectly, the cause of most
trouble with the feet. Corns, founder, atrophy
of the muscle of the shoulders, thickening of
the lateral cartilage, navicular tritis or disease of
the navicular joint, are largely dependent upon
contraction. It is idle also to look for eure in
any of the advertised means for this purpose.
Ointments, elastic cushions, and the prevalent
theories that I have seen advertised, do not
reach the difficulty. Neither can any form of
shoe alone be depended upon, however perfect
aud plausible they may appear. The foot must
be properly prepared, when the shoe must be
adapted to the condition and peculiarity of the
ease. A contracted foot is always strong and
high at the heel. The horn is thick and hard
and the commasures closed. Almost all elas-
ticity is destroyed so far as freedom of expan-
sion. |

This horn must be removed and the foot per-
mitted and encouraged to expand, and that
means is best.and most valuable that will restore
the foot to its natural condition, and which is

145

to be aided by gentle but gradual expansion
upon the heels. The feet should be softened
by standing in warm water, or poulticing when
they can be easily cut down to the live yielding
sole, until the greatest elasticity is assured. If
the frog is high and bony it may be cut down.
Various forms of shoe are recommended, but
the truth is, more depends upon the skill of
preparing the feet and of making .the shoe ex-
actly adapted to the peculiarity of the case than
upon the form of the shoe. If there is suflicient
genius and skill available, the quarters may be
sufficiently spread in nailing. First, fit the
shoe accurately to the size of the hoof, from the
toe to the heel, bearing surface level, having the
nail holes well back in the quarters. Lay the
shoe on accurately and mark the position of the
nail holes on the sole with a prick or pencil ;
small holes may be bored in part way in the di-
rection of the nails with a very small bit, not
larger than the nail above the shoulder. Now
make the shoe an eighth of an inch or a little
less wider. Putit on and start all the nails,
driving each a little in rotation until all are
driven down. This will bring an even and di-
rect pressure upon the quarters outward, but
not enough to do any harm, which can be re-
peated from time to time by drawing out the
nails and making the shoe a trifle wider. |

A cheap and excellent shoe for expansion is
made by Terrat & Farren, of Batavia, N. Y.,.
which if properly fitted and applied will answer
an excellent purpose. Their application re-
quires considerable skill, and their value is
dependant upon the care and skill used in s0
graduating the pressure upon the quarters as
not to excite inflammation. They will furnish

T

146

circulars, giving necessary details, &e., on appli-
cation, by being addressed.

The feet should be kept soft by putting in a
warm water bath, as hot as can be borne by the
hand, at least one hour each day, or poultice
with flax seed meal, or tying a few thicknesses
of cloth around the coronet, keeping them damp
while in the stable. When the feet are so dis-
eased. by contraction as to cause change of struc-
ture that impairs mobility, or if there is inflam-
mation of the navicular joint, though carefully
spreading the heels may palliate or improve the
eondition of the case, a radical cure need not be
expected, though with proper surgical treat-
ment in addition, many otherwise hopeless cases
may be restored to a condition of usefulness.
So much depends upon skill that it is hazard-
ous to assume treating these difficulties, no
matter what is attempted or advised to be done,
even though a simple condition of contraction
that would yield readily to proper treatment,
can but rarely be cured by inexperienced per-
sons who may assume the task.

This requires a discrimination founded upon
a correct understanding of. the condition and
nature of the parts involved, and of the treat-
ment best adapted to restore them to a healthy
condition. Neither can this be done by every
practical surgeon. The theories of writers,
while plausible and good, do not enable a prac-
tical treatment for cure. I have given this
subject much attention, having attended a
‘ course of lectures on shoeing and diseases of
the feet, and incurred an expense of nearly a
‘thousand dollars in illustrating the principles
(as I understood them) of shoeing, and changes
of structure excited by different causes, in

147

procuring models and morbid specimens, but I
am frank in stating that I did not know how to
cure corns and contractions practically, and I
have not met a surgeon who did, until | became
acquainted with Dr. Wm. Somurvitue, of Buf-
falo, N. Y. I would not imply an ignorance of
the structure and relation of the parts, or of
such theories and details as have been given by
eminent writers, in any one of the many able
veterinary surgeons with whom I have become
acquainted in different parts of the country, and
to whom I feel greatly indebted for many acts
of assistance and kindness; but in reaching the
point of difficulty in a direct practical manner,
that would restore the feet to a healthy condi-
tion, Dr. Somervi.ue is far in adance. And the
better to fit myself to disseminate a correct
knowledge not only of this duty but of the
treatment of diseases in general, | have em-
ployed this eminent practitioner, at an extrava-
gant expense, to instruct me in his theory and
practice of treating disease, which he does on
condition that Ido not publish his treatment.
Neither am I willing to make public a means of
curing contraction and other causes of lameness,
that have cost me so largely.

But I am happy to be able to assure owners
of fine horses that are sore-footed or lame, from
contraction and its consequences, that unless
there are morbid changes excited that destroy
the mobility, I can make them apparently sound
in a short time.

Corns

Appear in the angle of the hoof near the heel.
They are generally caused by the shoe being
worn too long, causing the shell of the hoof to

148

grow over the shoe, which throws the weight
upon the sole, or the angles between the bar
and crust are not properly dressed out. If the
descending heel of the coffin bone meets with
too much resistance by want of elasticity in the
sole at this place, the sensitive sole is hable to
be so bruised and injured as to eause this effect.
Corns are a simple contused wound of the sen-
sitive sole. If of an ordinary character, upon
cutting away the horn, there will be founda
red spot; if very bad, the color will be a dark
purple.

If this condition is neglected, matter may be
formed, or the inflammation may cause the lat-
eral cartilages which are attached to the heels
of the coftin bone to become ossified, or even
the accumulation of large bony deposits, which
would destroy the mobility of the foot and
cause considerable deformity.

The corn should be well cut out, and a little
butyr of antimony applied to the part, or satu-
rate well with pine gum, which is found to
exude from the sap of pine trees. Fill the cav-
ity with tow, and put on the shoe so fitted that
there will be no pressure upon the part. The
shoes should be re-set often until cured.

Quarter Crack.

When the hoof is dry and hard it is easily
split. A piece of glue when very dry splits
and breaks very easily if pounded upon, but if
softened by moisture would only bend and be
bruised. The hoof partakes of the character
of glue. If very dry the fibers become dense
and hard. If while the feet are in this condi-
tion the horse is driven fast on hard roads, the

149

hoof is liable to burst. If the hoof is thin and
contracted, there is great danger of the inside
quarters splitting.

Cut down the hoof back of the crack, so that
there is no pressure of that part of the bearing
surface upon the shoe, put on a bar shoe, cut
across the split deeply at the edge of the hair
with a firing iron. Next cut down the edges of
the hoof so far as split extends, to the quick.
Then soften and grow down the hoof rapidly
by applying any good stimulating ointment.
A mixture of equal portions of tar, lard and
turpentine, is excellent for this purpose. The
fitting of the shoe should be carefully attended
to, the hoot grown down as rapidly as it is safe
to do, and the part kept clean by covering it
with a little tar, or a mixture of resin and
tallow. There will not be a cure until a new
hoof is grown down, which will take about six
or eight months.

Interfering’.

Some horses travel so close that the least
neglect of having the shoe well under the
quarter, and the part nicely dressed down,
would cause a bruising and cutting of the
opposite ankle. If you do not know what part
of the hoof strikes the ankle, wind the ankle
with a piece of bandage and daub it with some
coloring matter; then trot the horse until some
of this coloring is found on the hoof, which
indicates the part that strikes. The shoe should
be so formed and fitted as to come well under
this portion of the hoof. To do this well, that
side of the shoe should be made rather straight,
with the web narrow, and the nail-holes well

150

forward in the toe; at all events there must be
no nails driven into that part of the hoof that
strikes, as the clinches would be likely to cut.
If the toe cork is set well round, on the inside
of the toe, and the foot is so fitted, or the shoe
is so formed that the bearing of the inside of
the foot is raised a little, there will be a tend-
ing in the ankle to be thrown out when borne
upon. But the great object is to have the shoe
fitted and filed smoothly, and set well under
the quarters, so that after the hoof is rasped off
all it is prudent to do, and rounded down care-
fully, the shoe sets far enough under not to
endanger its cutting, yet support the hoof, and
give a natural bearing to the foot. The diffi-
culty will be that some portion of this part of
the shoe, will be made to extend beyond the
hoof, and the shoe is. fitted and put on so
roughly that it can scarcely be said to be fitted
any smoother or better than is usually done,
without regard to such a purpose. It is always
best to keep the bearing natural by trimming
the foot level, and making the shoe of an even
thickness, but set under and filed smoothly.
If this will not do, raise the inside a little.
Driving young horses to sulky will often cause
interfering; getting a horse in good condition
will often overcome the difficulty. If the
ankles are cut or sore, they should be protected
with pads until well. If the owner values the
animal highly, he should give such shoeing his
personal attention.

Pricking.

If the smith should happen to drive a nail so
deep into the crust as to strike the sensitive

151

part, he should by no means drive a nail into
that hole again, so that if matter is formed by
the injury, there will be an outlet forit. Ifthe
horse becomes lame after being shod, examine
the foot carefully. If pricked by driving any
of the nails too near the quick, there will be
heat and tenderness in the hoof easily discov-
ered. Have the shoe taken off, and cut down
to where the nail strikes the quick, enough to
make room for any matter. that may have
formed to escape; then poultice with flax-seed
meal until the inflammation is reduced, when a
little tar, resin, or tallow, or something of this
kind, should be put on, and the opening filled
up with a little tow, to prevent gravel or dirt
from getting in, and the shoe put on again.

Weak Heels.

Cutting down too close and fitting the shoes
roughly, so that the horse wears and breaks
down, will cause the heels to be low and sensi-
tive. If there is contraction, the arteries sup-
plying blood to the quarters, by which the
growth of horn is stimulated, are obstructed, and
in consequence the quarters grow slowly,
though the toe grows fast enough. Such feet
should be simply leveled down with the rasp
carefully, and the shoe fitted to touch every
part of the bearing surface at the heels.

Shees,

It should be borne in mind that that form of
shoe which accords with the foot in making the
bearing natural, preserves its elasticity, and
protects it from injury, is best. If we examine

152

the foot it will be found concave. This is the
best form to enable a fulerum that will prevent
slipping. If we would imitate and carry out
in the form of the shoe, that of the foot, it
should be also coneave, or thick at the outer
edge and beveled upward to the inner edge on
the ground surface. Such a shoe will not ball,
prevents slipping, 1s lighter, and would cer-
tainly enable more speed on a track if at all
wet. Amateurs who have an opportunity, should
see my models of shoes of different patterns.

Shoes for summer wear should be level, of

an equal thickness from toe to heel. If the
roads are soft this is certainly advisable, to give
the frog pressure. If shoes are made with
corks, the inside ones should be rounded so as
not to cut the feet. The outside ones will pre-
vent slipping. My Maine snow shoe is undoubt-
edly the best for winter use; will not ball, and
protects the feet most effectually from being
bruised or injured

The bearing surface of all shoes should be
level, and come exactly under the wall of the
hoof all the way round. The nails should
be as small, and as few, and as far forward
in the toe as will retain the shoe safely, the
object being to protect the foot and keep it
healthy. When from any cause there is an
undue absorption of moisture, making the frog
and hoof dry and hard, either from inactivity
by standing on a dry floor, or driving on dry
hard roads, or both, it-must be supplied by
artificial means. Stuff or fill the feet with
flax-seed meal to which has been added a little
wood ashes mixed with water. It will stick.
Or wet cloths may be tied around the hoof.
If this treatment ts desired to be energetic, the

*

153

feet must be put in water, as hot as can. be
borne, for at least one houra day. But this is
the province of a thorough practitioner to
direct. °

The usual paliative means of rubber cushions
and such means, put between the hoof to cure
soreness and lameness, are of no account, since
they do not reach the cause of difficulty. The
nailing of the shoe must necessarily be so tight
as to press out all the elasticity there is, and in
addition, the heels cut through such means so
quickly that they will not prove of value.

Shoes should be re-set once in from four to
six weeks. Tor light, occasional use, not more
than seven nails should be driven—four on the
outside, and three on the inside—well forward.
The shoe should come well out under the toe,
so that there is no necessity for more than
touching the edge a little to reach the shoe.
It is much better, easier and cheaper, to keep
the feet healthy than to cure them. It is wise
in shoers to be patient and do the work well,
and owners should remember that extra care
and skill deserves extra compensation. It is
hoped the few explanations given will aid to a
better understanding of the duty.

Y Gg

(154

DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT.

To treat diseases successfully requires a prac-
tical knowledge of their nature, the nature and
effect of medicine, and the relation in which it
is to be used to produce the effects desired.
Even the most eminent practitioners are not
master of this knowledge. Their researches
only develop the necessity of aiding by such
means and treatment as will conserve best to
regulate the derangement and grow into health.
If this is true, and it cannot be doubted, it is
much wiser and better for those not familiar
with the nature and use of medicine not to at-
tempt doing too much; and above all, not to
give dangerous remedies or so much of any kind
as to derange and injure the system.

More attention should be given to the pre-
vention of causes. This is your province.
Now, it is a common custom to drive horses at
the top of their speed until exhausted, and in a
reeking sweat, perhaps every pore open, hitch
the horse in some exposed place to a bleak,
piercing wind. Ifa thin blanket is put on it is
regarded as proof of unusual care. The drivers
go to a warm room, pass time in drinking per-
haps for hours, warm and comfortable the drive
is resumed. The poor horse, chilled with cold,
is urged forward in the most merciless manner
to the end of the drive. The horse is put ina
stall, with no more care than a blanket thrown
on. The system, weakened and chilled, yields,

155

and the horse has pleurisy, inflammation of the
lungs, sore throat or laminitis (founder).

Men, too, of intelligence, who claim to be
horsemen, abuse and expose their horses in this
way. Is not such treatment of the most gener-
ous and noble animal in the world, not only in-
excusable, but damning ; and is it any wonder
that many naturally fine horses are spoilt. Self-
interest, and the sentiment of common feeling,
should actuate to reasonable treatment and care
of horses. Has the reader been guilty of this
fault, let him be above the guilt of such folly in
future. Ifthe horse is sick, use reason. Don’t
bleed and pour down the poor animal such
medicines as every ignorant bystander may re-
commend. The belief is too prevalent that
every ailment is based upon botts er colic, and
that if medicine will not cure it will not harm.
This is all wrong. If you do not know what
the trouble is do not commit the error of doing
anything more than put the horse in a quiet,
clean and well ventilated stall. If cold weather,
blanket warmly and nurse, by giving good
clean food, feeding regularly, adding roots of
some kind—carrots until cold weather sets in,
potatoes after, or a bran mash from one to three
times a week, at night. If the horse is warm,
water but little, if any, unless moved. Do not
let him stand where a current of air can strike
him. [If off his feed, give rest and bran mash
or a little grass. The treatment given here
must necessarily be simple, to which will be
found added many favorite remedies of great
value.

156

Inflammation of the Lungs.

Under this head is usually comprised all the
modifications and extremes of inflammation and
congestion, by which the circulation is impeded
and weakened and the strength prostrated, and
is usually classed under two heads, namely :
Pleurisy and Inflammation of the Lungs. By
pleurisy—that the pleura or vicera covering
and surrounding the lungs in the cavity of the
chest is inflammed. By inflammation of lungs,
or pneumonia—when the lungs are so inflam-
med and weakened in their action by conges-
tion as to prevent ability to take in or expel the
requisite quantity of air to support life, or to a
degree that would keep the system to its nor-
mal standard. These terms are, however, in a
practical sense, too vague and indefinite to give
anything like a correct understanding of the
disease or the treatment to be pursued, since
there are modifications and extremes of this dis-
ease that require entirely different treatment
from those first named, and upon a correct
diagnosis and treatment of which the life of the
horse will often depend. These peculiarities
are congestion and typhoid pneumonia.

As inflammation is a weakened or obstructed
condition of the circulation, it implies conges-
tion. But the term is usually applied to such
an acute and marked prostration of the action
of the lungs that they cannot act, from a too
great engorgement of blood, by which the horse,
if not promptly relieved, must soon die from
suffocation. Typhoid pneumonia, on the con-
trary, is a low order of this disease. The horse
has no appetite, will not eat, stands for days with
head down, prostrated almost paralized in action,

157

pulse light and accelerated or low and feeble.
_ This condition continues from four to five or six
days, the pulse going up or down according to
the way the disease terminates. In seven or
eight days the animal passes a large quantity of
water, and if properly treated a normal condi-
tion of health is gradually resumed. This form
of “lung fever’’ is usually epidemic, often at-
tacking in succession all the horses in a stable.

These peculiarities of extreme require treat-
ment adapted to each, and so essential is this,
that what would certainly cure, and is abso-
lutely essential in one, would be certain death
to another.

Hence, in pleurisy, bleeding will kill, by caus-
ing dropsy and ultimate death. While in
severe congestion it becomes one of the most
essential and valuable of adjuncts; while again
in the typhoid type, it would be almost certain
destruction.

Even practitioners, of boastful skill and ex-
perience, fail to a great extent in diagnosing
these differences, unless very clearly marked,
and in fact the typhoid form, which is quite
common, is not referred to in any books on
veterinary practice, and often sweeps off in suc-
cession the best horses in a stable, if 1gnorantly
treated. Yet so easily does this disease yield to
proper treatment, that it may be almost assum-
ed that every horse that dies is killed by
ignorant treatment. Now, it is useless to try
to explain these nicely merging distinctions or
give the exact treatment for each, as this would
only confuse and thus defeat the objeet for
which reference is designed. Hence, I will
give such simple treatment as will be most safe
and practical for the amateur to use in case of

158

emergency. There is a delicacy, energy and
skill essential in the treatment of the deeper
and more complicated forms of lung disease,
that cannot be comprehended or practiced from
any explanation that may be given here. And
it is well to remind also, that any successful
veterinary surgeon who has an ordinary regard
for his own interest, will not throw his favorite
treatment, by publishing in any general work,
into the hands of every quack who may have
access to its pages. The object of the practi-
tioner in the treatment of inflammation or con-
gestion, is to give plenty of fresh air and the
use of such treatment as will most easily and
naturally equalize the circulation, by the use of
sedatives and counter irritation. Bleeding,
which is the principle reliance of most practi-
tioners, especially self-constituted doctors,
would be almost certain death in pluerisy, by
so weakening the capillaries as to excite a
watery effusion that would ultimately destroy
life or render the animal worthless, by causing
or terminating in hydrathorax or dropsy of the
chest. It is as surely destructive when of a
typhoid form. It is unnecessary and injudici-
ous 1n treating a simple condition of inflamma-
tion, and is only admissible and necessary when
there is so severe a condition of congestion that
the most powerful and radical means must be
used to relieve and save the animal.

Pluerisy.

When the membrane covering the lungs and
internal walls of the chest, without the lungs
being involved in inflammation, the disease is
called pleurisy. When the lungs partake of

159

this inflammatory action it is termed pleuro-
pneumonia. It is supposed there is so much
sympathy of the parts that they are generally to
a greater or less extent involved.

The attack may be sudden or gradual, the
horse showing indisposition for days previous.
A hard drive, over-exertion, exposure to cold,
washing in cold water when warm, or in fact any
cause that will repress respiration. The horse
will be dull and heavy in action for a day or
two, unwilling to lie down, pulse. not much dis-
turbed, will grunt or groan by moving on ac-
count of the pleura of the lungs and sides
rubbing. Breathing at the flanks show a little
acceleration. As the disease increases the fever
increases, pulse quicker, membrane of the eye
and nose becomes of a deeper red, and so on
until the horse is relieved. Blanket warmly,
put in a comfortable stall where there will be
pure air. Apply some strong stimulent to the
legs and on each side of the body and breast,
such as mustard made into paste and rubbed
thoroughly in, or a liniment, composed of aqua-
amonia reduced one-half with water, or any
strong stimulating liniment, should be applied
three or four times a day, and give fifteen or
twenty drops of the mixture of aconite and
veratrum as used for inflammation of the lungs.
Keep up the irritation on the legs and body.
Repeat the medicine given internally every
twenty or thirty minutes until relieved, lessen-
ing or increasing the dose in quantity and fre-
quency according to the severity of the case.
Feed lightly and carefully for some time, giv-
ing mashes in which is to be put salt petre,
crude antimony and sulphur, as in the treatment
of inflammation of the lungs.

160

Pneumonia, or Inflammation of the Lungs.

An inflammatory, or highly congested condi-
tion of the lungs, caused by high feeding , keep-
ing in close badly ventilated stables ; then sub-
jected to violent exercise or sudden changes
from heat to cold. Driving fast against a cold
wind, or cold applied to the external surface of —
a heated animal, by which the blood is driven
from the skin and extremities to the internal
organs.

The disease is usually noticeable first by the
horse having a severe shivering fit; he refuses
his food, hangs the head between the forelegs
or upon the manger, will not move or lie down,
the breathing is quick and short, the pulse is
sometimes tull and quick, but generally quick
‘and weak, scarcely perceptible, legs, ears and
muzzle cold; if the attack is sudden, coming on
after violent exertion, and the pulse is quite
weak or scarcely perceptible; and if by put-
ting the ear to the side no sound is discovered,
the disease is what is termed congestive pneu-
monia. This condition requires prompt ener-
getic treatment.

For the first condition, or inflammation of
lungs, clothe warmly and treat as explained for
pleurisy, applying strong counter irritation to
the breast, sides and legs, a give of the fol-
lowing mixture :

1 oz. tine. veratum viride.
4 oz. aconite (mother tinc.)
4 oz. water.

Dose—From fifteen to thirty drops on the
tongue, repeated in from twenty to thirty

161

minutes, according to the size of the horse and
severity of the case, until relieved. <A few
swallows of water should be given occasionally,
and if the horse will drink, the medicine may be
given in the water. Improvement will be de-
noted by the pulse full and regular and the
expression and actions being lively. Oil or
physic of any sort must not be given. There
is so much disposition to sympathy that any
irritation excited by physicing would aggravate
the disease or cause inflammation of the bowels
and death. Injections are admissible. If the
horse is prostrated, but little pulse, no action of
the lungs, membranes of the nose and eyes high
colored, possibly a few drops of blood from the
nose,., take six or eight quarts of blood from the
neck vein, giving sedatives and applying coun-
ter irritation as before explained.

Diet must be low for some time after. Gruel
and little bran mashes, a few potatoes, carrots
or grass; no oats or corn, and but very
little, if any, hay. Would give a bran mash
daily for two weeks, in which a tablespoonful
of the following mixture should be put for the
purpose of preventing dropsy of the chest:

4 oz. nitrate potassa (salt petre)..
1 oz. crude antimony.
3 oz. sulphur.

Nitrate of potassa and antimony should be
finely pulverized; then add the sulphur, and
mix the whole together. Also one of the best
of remedies for recruiting a horse hide-bound
or out of sorts.

Dose—A tablespoonful in a bran mash daily.

162

It would be useless to attempt explanation of
treatment for typhoid pneumonia, as it is a dis-
ease that requires great delicacy and care, and
could not be understood from any limited ex-
planation that may be inserted. Your safest
course is to nurse carefully, doing nothing more,
and let the horse take his chance. Safer for
you than to meddle with the case.

Inflammation of the Bowels.

For the first few hours the horse is uneasy,
paws, looks around at the. side, the pulse is
slightly accelerated and wiry. As the disease
advances the intermissions between the attack
becomes less, pulse quicker, running from
seventy to eighty beats in a minute, in some
instances even faster, lies down and gets up,
shows much pain, no swelling of sides. Now
begins to exhibit fever, bowels constipated,
urine high colored and scanty—generally caused.
by constipation of bowels, hard driving over-
purging or looseness of bowels, drinking cold
water when warm. Constipation is, however,
the principal cause of the disease, and when
this is the case, the first and most important
condition of relief is to get an action of the
bowels. Give a quart of raw linseed oil.

If scours or over-purging, give an ounce and
a half of the tine. opium with six ounces of
water. But in order to suppress the inflamma-
tion it is necessary to bleed immediately from
the neck vein from six to ten quarts of blood,
according to the strength and size of the ani-

Norr.—If constipation is very great, add from four to six
drops of croton oil.

165

mal. In extreme cases bleeding may be re-
peated to the extent of four to six quarts in
three or four hours. If much pain exists in
constipation, give from one to three ounces
tincture asafcetida, gruel, roots, grass and bran
mash. Feed lightly for a week at least, giving
gruel, roots, grass and bran mash, and keep
quiet. No exercise for several days, if there
is great danger of a relapse.

Colic.

There are two kinds of colic—Spasmopic and
FLATULENT—ancd it is of the greatest importance
that they should be distinguished and the treat-
ment made proper to each. I will give first
the simplest and safest treatment for each,
after which I will include a remedy, if at hand,
that may be relied upon for either, and is alone
worth more than the cost of the book and in-
structions.

First—Spasmodic Colic. Premonatory symp-
toms are sudden. The animal paws violently,
showing evidences of great distress, shifting
his position almost constantly and manifesting
a desire to lie down. In a few minutes these
symptoms disappear and the horse is easy.
But the same uneasiness soon returns, increas-
ing in severity until the animal cannot be kept
upon his feet; the pulse is full, scarcely altered
from its normal condition. As the disease ad-
vances the symptoms become more severe, the
animal at times throwing himself down with
force, regardless of consequences, looks anxi-
ously at the sides, sometimes snapping with the
teeth at the sides, looking anxiously at the belly
and striking upward with the hind feet, show-

164

ing almost the same symptoms of inflammation
of the bowels. The condition of the pulse and
the remission of pain being the distinguishing
features. In addition to which, the extremities
are of a natural temperature. There are fre-
quent but ineffectual efforts to pass water, and
a cold sweat breaks out over the whole body.

The common causes are application of cold
water to the body, drinking cold water when in
a heated condition, costiveness, unwholesome
food, &c.. The simplest and surest treatment is
bleeding. Being of a spasmodic nature, and
extracting blood being the quickest and surest
method of relaxing the system, it is the most
reliable means of cure. Take from eight to
twelve quarts of blood from the neck vein, ac-
cording to the severity of the attack and the
size of the horse. Always in bleeding make
the orifice large and extract the blood as quickly
as possible. If not bled, give three ounces of
laudanum and a pint of raw linseed oil. If not
better in an hour give two ounces of laudanum
and the same quantity of oil.

Flatulent Colic.—Symptoms same as spas-
modic colic, with the difference of so great an
accumulation of gas in the stomach and intes-
tines that the belly is swelled, and if not re-
heved the accumulation of gas may become so
great that the diaphram or walls of the stomach
are forced to give way and the horse is suftoca-
ted. This disease will often prove fatal in a
few hours, and sometimes in from one to two
hours.

In this case bleeding must not be attempted
on any account, neither must there be any fluids
forced into the rectum. The animal loses
strength rapidly, and to bleed prostrates too

165

much and checks perspiration without lessening
the accumulation of gas, and death must almost
surely result, while the bowels are already so
disturbed that any attempt to inject fluids of any
kind only inereases the mischief. Blanket
warmly in order to keep up the perspiration,
‘and give the following immediately: 1 oz.
sulphuric ether, 2 oz. peppermint, 1 pint water,
to be taken in one dose. If not relieved repeat
in thirty minutes, omitting half of the pep-
permint, and all at subsequent repetitions.
This treatment must be repeated every half
hour, giving more or less according to the se-
verity of the case until relieved. If much
bloated, do not permit the horse to lie down as,
the shock occasioned by falling or rolling will
occasion so much pressure upon the diaphram
as to break it and the horse must die almost
instantly from suffocation. I would here state
that this is a form of inflammation that runs its
course very quick, and must be treated promptly
but coolly. There must not be any experi-
menting in the way of bleeding, or running, or
physicing, as a fatal result will be almost cer-
tain to follow. Itis a form of colic that baftiles
the majority of the sharp practitioners. The
' treatment has been varied in every possible form
to no purpose. Of course there are other re-
sources of great value, but it would be useless
to give them here, as it would be likely to con-
fuse and win the attention from treatment
which is safer for inexperienced persons than
any complicated treatment that may be at-
tempted however valuable. The principle cause
of the disease is constipation by feeding too
much hay and straw. Keep the bowels in a
loose active condition, and there is but little
danger of such a result. .

166
For Colie in Horses.

Sulph. ether 1 pint, aromatic spirits ammonia
1 pint, sweet spirits nitre 2 pints, opium } lb.,
asafcetida (pure) } 1b., camphor 4 lb. Put it in
a large bottle, let it stand fourteen days, with
frequent shaking, and it will be fit to use. ©
Dose: One ounce, more or less, according to
the severity of the case; once in from thirty
minutes to an hour. Should be given in a
little water, which may be sweetened. Owners
of valuable horses should keep a supply of this
medicine, ready for use. But it is always best
when possible to employ a veterinary surgeon,
if within reach of one who has repntation for
success.

Enflamimation of the Kidneys.

Symptoms: A constant desire to urinate,
pain on pressing the loins, fever, great thirst,
urine highly colored. Treatment: If the ani-
mal is plethoric, bleeding is advantageous;
mustard and vinegar should be applied to the
loins frequently and effectually. Give inter-
nally in the early stage of the disease, from
five to ten drops of aconite.

Inflammation of Bladder.

This disease is usually sympathetic, occurring
oftener in connection with other diseases, than
of itself.

Symptoms: Frequent voiding of urine in
small quantities, quick pulse, looks frequently
at flanks, paws violently, bladder contracted,
small, hard and tender to the touch. Treat-
ment: Injections of water; 1 gallon, in which

167

put 3 ozs. laudanum; throw into the funda-
ment two or three times a day. Give internally
1 quart linseed oil, and bathe loins frequently
with mustard and vinegar. Give in ‘his water,
2 drachms extract of belladonna; once every
day, until restored. This is a dangerous dis-
ease, and one best treated by a rings sur-
geon, when to be obtained.

Diarrhoea.

Symptoms: Water discharges, fever and
great prostration of strength. Treatment:
Keep warm; give injections of starch made
thin. Drench with the following: Ale 1 quart,
powdered catechu 2 drachms, laudanum # oz.,
powdered caraway seeds, 4 0z.; to be repeated
every morning until the purging ceases.

Stomach Staggers.

This disease arises from an overloaded condi-
tion of the stomach, causing pressure upon the
heart and lungs, thus interfering with the cir-
culation of the blood, causing stupor, and a
disposition to pitch forward, resting the head
against the wall, or any object which may be
in the way. Treatment: Give the following
ball as soon as possible: Barbadoes aloes 1 0z.,
ginger 1 drachm, gentian 1 drachm, molasses
sufficient to form the ball. If this does not
operate in twenty-four hours, repeat the dose.
Give an injection of soap and water two or
three times a day, until the bowels are opened.
Dissolve 2 drachms extract belladona in a pail .
of water; give to drink once a day for a week.
No food of any kind should be given for

168

twenty-four hours. Animals subject to this
disease should not have corn, and be very spar-
ingly fed.

Bioodly Urine

Is generally the result of injuries of the loins,
unwholesome food, violent exercise, ete. Treat-
ment: Give plenty linseed tea to drink; if the
animal refuses it, drench him. Give internally
once a day, one of the following pills: Sugar
of lead 1 oz., linseed meal two ozs.; mix with
molasses, and divide into eight parts.

Seratches.

Wash well with castile soap and water, and
then make a soap lather and add powdered
chareoal to make a paste; apply with brush
and let it dry, after which it can be rubbed off.
An excellent remedy is as follows: Colodion 1
oz., castor oil 2 ozs.; mix; bathe the parts
when perfectly dry ; otherwise it will be of no
service. Give purging ball.

Grease Heels.

This is a white, offensive, greasy discharge
from the heels of the horse, the skin becomes
hot, tender and swollen; the acrid character of
the discharge often causes large portions of the
skin to slough away, leaving an ugly sore be-
hind. Treatment: Open the bowels with the
following ball: Barbadoes aloes 1 oz., pulver-
ized gentian root 2 drachms, pulverized ginger
1 drachm, water suflicient to make the ball.
Wash the parts well, and poultice for two or
three days with the following: Flax-seed meal

169

mixed with a solution of 2 drachms sulphate of
zine to a pint of water, which keep clean, and
bathe frequently with glycerine, or the solution
of zinc, or a solution of the chloride of lime,
may be used; or the bichloride of murcury
may be used in inveterate cases, with good
results, provided it is not repeated oftener than
once a week.

Laminitis, or Founder.

Symptoms in the acute state: A disposition
to lie down, pulse quickened, feet hot and ten-
der; the animal throws his weight on his hind
feet, the front ones being extended forward;
the symptoms of this disease are well known to
_ every horseman.

Treatment: If plethoric, bleed freely, foment
the feet with hot water, and poultice them for
several days, give copious injections of soap and
water, and give the following ball: Barbadoes
aloes, 1 ounce; ginger, pulverized, 1 drachm ;
gentian, pulverized, 2 drachm; mix with mo-
lasses.

If the disease is allowed to run into the
chronic form, the animal will always have a
paddling gait, hence the necessity of prompt
and efficient treatment.

Distemper.

All catarrhal affections are classed under this
head by the ordinary observer. We refer to it
in its simple form, as we usually find it in colts
soon after being stabled. If there is a swelling
under the jaws, poultice as in strangles, and ap-
ply mustard and vinegar, or some good irritant,

8

176

and give internally one of the following pow-
ders in the feed: pulverized gentian 2 ounces,
sulph. copper, 1 ounce, pulverized ginger, 6
drachms—mix and divide into eight powders.

Poll Evil.

Symptoms: A swelling or tumor on the poll
of the head. Treatment: This is most suc-
cessful by extirpation with the knife; local and
constitutional treatment will often succeed. As
soon as the tumor becomes soft, it should be
opened, and a solution of sulph. of zine 1 oz.,
acetate of lead 14 ozs., and water 2 quarts,
should be thrown into the abcess once a day.
Give internally 4 drachm doses of nux vomica,
once a day for a week. Keep the bowels open,
but not too purging.

Fistula of the Withers,

Is the same disease, and requires the same
treatment.

Stone in the Bladder.

These may exist along time in the bladder
before any symptoms arise indicating their
presence. The first symptoms of. stone are
frequent efforts to urinate, voiding small quan-
tities usually of a thick whitish color; as the
stones increase in size the symptoms become
more aggravated, colicky pains are indicated,
rendering it difficult to distinguish the differ-
ence; the animal paws, kicks at his belly, lies
down, rolls, and gets up quickly. In some
cases these obstructions are- dissolved by the
administration of muriatic acid, 2 drachms in a

171

pail of water once a day. Where this fails an

operation for the removal of the stone is the

only remedy.
Quitter.

This is a formation of pus between the hoof
and the soft structure within; a sore at the
coronet or upper part of the foot, which at first
is a hard, smooth tumor, soon becoming soft,
and breaks, discharging quantities of pus.
Treatment: Poultice the foot for several days
with flax-seed meal. As soon as the hoof be-
comes soft, cut away all loose portions, but no
more, and inject with a syringe either of the
following once a day: Chloride of zine, 2
drachms, dissolved in 1 pint of water; or sul-
phate of zinc, 14 drachms in 1 pint of water;
or nitrate of silver, 2 drachms in a pint of |
water; or glycerine may be used with advan-
tage. Before using the wash have the foot well
cleaned with castile soap and water.

Mange.

This is a disease of the skin identical with
the itch in the human family. The hair comes
off in spots which generally blend together,
causing scabby patches; and the skin thickens
and puckers along the neck.

Treatment: Take the horse in the sun and
scrub him thoroughly all over with castile soap
and water, then wash him well from head to
tail with gas water, in which put two drachms
white hellebore to the gallon. He must now
be put in another stall distant from the one in
which he has been standing; thus treated it
_ rarely requires more*than one washing to effect

172

a permanent cure. The harness should be
thoroughly scrubbed and put away for six or
eight weeks. These precautions are necessary
to success in this otherwise troublesome dis-
ease.

Surfeit.

This is a scurfy eruption all over the body,
arising from an impure condition of the blood,
causing plethora in one animal, and general
debility, ete.; in another. The legs swell, the
hair is rough and staring, the membrane lining
in the nose presents a bluish cast.

Give the following: Barbadoes aloes 1 ounce,
nitrate of potassa 2 drachms, gentian 1 drachm,
make into a ball with water; follow this with
the following powder: Nitrate of potassa 1 0z.,
pulverized sulphur 6 ounces, black antimony 2
ounces; mix and divide into 16 powders, give
one morning and night.

e

Saddie Galls.

These are too well known to horsemen to re-
quire any special remarks regarding their —
cause, etc.

Treatment: Bathe the parts two or three
times a day with equal parts of tincture of
myrrh and tincture of Aloes; or collodign 1
ounce, castor oil 2. ounces, mixed together; or
glycerine is a very good remedy.

Profuse Staling.

The causes of this disease are the improper
use of diuretic medicines, or saltpeter, resin,
etc. Unwholesome food will sometimes pro-

173

duce it. Treatment: Give one of the following
balls every night: Powdered opium 4 ounce,
powdered kino 1 ounce, prepared chalk 1 ounce;
mix with molasses and make six balls.

e Inflammation of the Brain.

Mad staggers, as this disease is called, arises
from various causes. Blows over the head will
produce it, over-feeding, a tight collar, power-
ful stimulents, etc. Symptoms: The animal at
first is dull, and moves with apparent reluc-
tance ; the membranes dividing the eyelids and
nose are much reddened, pulse full and quick,
appetite lost, a vacant stare about the eyes,
ending in delirium or madness. Everything
around the animal is destroyed or injured ; he
continues his ravings until exhausted.

Treatment: Open the jugular vein as quick
as possible; this should be done before the mad
stage comes on, or it is too late to be of much
service. Open the bowels freely; give the fol-
lowing: Barbadoes aloes 1 ounce, croton oil 10
_ drops, ginger 1 drachm ; mix with molasses or
honey. Give tobacco smoke injections if con-
venient, or soap and water will answer the pur-
pose; give on the tongue every two hours ten
drops of tincture of aconite, until eight doses
have been given, and then stop the aconite.
Give cold water to drink and apply cold water
bandages to the head, or bags of ice wonld be
better; give no food for twelve hours after re-
lief is obtained.

Locked Jaw.

This is one of the most. troublesome and
uncertain diseases with which the veterinary

174

surgeon has to combat. It is technically called
tetanus. It arises generally from nail wounds
in the feet, sharp metallic substances taken into
and wounding the stomach or intestines. Bots
are said to be occasionally the cause of locked
jaw, etc. The first symptoms of the disease
are observed about the ninth or tenth day after
the injury is done, which are a straggling or
stiffness of the hind legs, to which succeeds
in a few days, the following: On elevating the
head, a spasmotic motion of the membrane in
the inner corner of the eye will be observed,
showing little more than the white of the eye,
the muscles of the jaw become rigid, the tongue
is swollen, and the mouth filled with saliva, the
ears are erect, the nose poked out, the nostrils
expand, the respiration becomes disturbed, and
finally the jaws become firmly set, and the
bowels are constipated.

Treatment: That which I have found most
successful is the early administration of the
following: Tincture of aconite 2 drachms,
tinct of belladonna 2 drachms, water 4 0z.;
mix, and give 40 drops every four hours on the
tongue. Kean a ball of aloes in the mouth for
several days; there is no fear of giving too
much; I have frequently given half a pound
in the course of a few days, with good results.
Hydrocyanie acid 20 drops, in little water,
and put upon the tongue every four hours, is
an excellent remedy. Foment the jaws with
bags of hops steeped in hot water, and bathe
the line of the back, from the pole to the eroup,
with mustard and with vinegar. Be careful not
to allow the animal to be uneccessary excited
by noises and bustle about him, but go around
him very quietly. Keep a pail of “bran slop

175

before him all the time. If the foot has been
injured, poultice with flax-seed meal, and keep
the wound open until healthy action has been
established.

Rheumatisih.

This disease is quite common in the Western
States. The symptoms are: stiffness, lameness,
and shifting from one limb to another; some-
times tumefaction is obserbvable about the ex-
tremities. The lameness is sometimes absent,
and appears to be influenced by changes in the
weather.

Yor treatment, poultice the feet with mustard
and flax-seed meal. Give internally, of nux
vomica 1 0z., pulverized gentian root 1} ozs.,
pulverized ginger 1 oz. ix and divide into
ar powders; give one every night in the
eed.

If this fails, and the animal is plethoric,
bleed freely and give a strong cathartic. Fol-
low every morning with one of the following
balls: Pine tar 2 ozs., pulverized gentian root
1 oz. Mix well together, and divide into eight
balls. Keep the body warm, and give no corn.

Worms.

Thousands of animals die annually from the
ravages of these pests, without the true cause
being even suspected; especially is this the
case in the young of the mare, cow, sheep and

Pig.
EISING, a German author, in his work on
Kutoyoa, mentions twenty varieties of worms

176

belonging to the horse, nineteen to the ox, six-
teen to the sheep, etc., yet veterinary writers
have mentioned but five or six of these varie-
ties as belonging to our domestic animals, the
symptoms of which have been as imperfectly
described by them. Each variety of worm has
its characteristic symptoms, viz: In bots, we
have rarely loss of condition, but when the bots
become troublesome, colicky pains, gasping,
quickened respiration, staring. or haggard ex-
pression of the eye, with a strong tendency to
inflammation of the bowels, will be observed.
In most other varieties of worms the symptoms
are: debility, feebleness, sluggish movements,
emaciation, staring coat, hide bound, and skin
covered with scurvy, blotches, rigidity of loins,
small, feeble, but slightly accelerated pulse,
respiration slow, tucked up belly, pallid appear-
ance of the lining of the lip; irregular, capri-
cious, but persistent appetite, badly digested
feeces, agitation of the heart and tail, and
where the ascarides (fandament worms) exist,
a whitish or yellowish white substance will be
found about the fundament, indicated also by
rubbing the tail.
The treatment of these parasites heretofore

have not been very satisfactory. The remedies
most popular are: tartar emetic, calomel, pink
root, terpentine, arsenic, green vitriol, kino,
ete. The following will be found very useful:
Calomel 3 drachms, tartar emetic 1 drachm.
Mix and divide into three powders, one to be
given at night for three successive nights; to
be followed in twenty-four hours with a good
» purging ball.

177
Bots

Are the bugbear of the would be wise horseman.
I would say that all respectable authors and
practitioners, do not try to doctor for bots. If
you imagine your horse to have bots, give an
ounce of sulphuric ether in a pint of linseed
oil. This is a favorite remedy, and I insert it
to gratify those who insist on treating for such
a disease. This treatment will cause bots to
pass through the system.

Lampas.

This disease will be found in colts during the
period of dentition. In many cases it causes
little or no inconvenience. When the animal
refuses to feed, in consequence of lampas, all
that is necessary to be done is to lance the
gums in several places. An ordinary pocket
knife will answer the purpose. Give soft food
for a few days, and administer the following,
made into a ball: Barbadoes aloes 4 drachms,
nitrate potassa 2 drachms, ginger pulverized 2
drachms; mix with molasses.

Sore Mouth.

The lips frequently become sore at the angles
of the mouth, from cutting or bruising of the
bit. Tincture of myrrh and aloes, equal parts,
applied to the sore will soon cause it to heal.

Wolf Teeth.

These teeth are found in all colts at some
period from the first to the fifth year, but ina
Q*

“178

large majority of them, they are shed soon
after they make their appearance. What their
function is [do not know... I have not found
them to exert any influence over the eyes. If
you wish them removed, pull them out with
the dentist's forceps.

Sore Throat.

Symptoms: Difticulty in swallowing, fever,
cough, stiffness about the head, ete. Treat-
ment: Aqua ammonia 2 ounces, tincture can-
tharides 1 ounce, linseed oil 8 ounces, oil orig-
anum 2 drachms. Mix all well together and
shake before using. Apply externally to the
throat all the way down, and give the following
ball: Barbadoes aloes 2 drachms, nitre 2
drachms. Mix with molasses. Give one night
‘and morning until the bowels ate relaxed.

Strangies.

This is another form of sore throat, which,
except in the hands of the skillful veterinary
surgeon, frequently proves fatal. The throat
swells from ear to ear, breathes heavily, flanks
heave, the animal breaks out in a profuse per-
spiration, breathing becomes loud and difficult,
and unless relieved dies a violent death. Treat-
ment: Poultice the throat with flaxseed meal,
-or bread and milk; a turnip poultice will an-
swer the purpose. The nostrils should be well
steamed, mustard and vinegar should be freely
applied to the throat until it becomes soft, and
then the swelling should be lanced, when the
animal is quickly relieved.

i79

influenza.

Spring and fall are the seasons most produc-
tive of epizootic (epidemic) catarrh. One year
it assumes a mild form, the next, perhaps, a
malignant one. Influenza is known under the
common name of pink-eye distemper.

Symptoms: These vary very considerable in
different animals. The usual or leading symp-
toms are: Slight watery or thin mucous dis-
charges from the nose, eyelids presenting a
reddish or orange red appearance; matter col-
jects in the corners of the eyes, pulse feeble,
great debility, as shown by the quick, feeble
action of the heart—symptom rarely absent,
membrane of nose much reddened, sore throat
and cough; occasionally the feet becomes
fevered as a founder, causing much stiffness,
which may easily be mistaken for that disease. °
Treatment: This being a typhoid disease re-
quires a sustaining treatment, or our success
will be very doubtful. In the early stage of the
disease give the first two days ten drops of tinc-
ture of aconite, or bryonia, in a little water,
every six hours, after which give a pail of water
to drink once a day, 1 ounce of spirits of nitre,
or 2 drachms of extract of belladonna; and
give in the feed, three times a day, one of the
following powders: Gentian root, saltpetre and
anise seed, of each 1 ounce, sulphate of quinine
1 drachm; mix and divide into eight powders ;
‘or, powdered cinchona and powdered quassia,
of each 2 ounces, powdered anise seed 1 ounce;
mix and divide into four powders. The throat
should be bathed with mustard and vinegar, or
with linseed oil 3 ounces, spirits of hartshorn 1
ounce, mixed together. No hay or corn should

180

be given, but scalded oats or wheat bran, with
linseed tea, or oatmeal gruel, should constitute
the diet; a few carrots would be very good,
and above all, good nursing is very desirable.

Bronchitis.

This is an inflammation of the btonchial
tubes, as its name implies, the air tubes of the
lungs. It is usually preceded by a shivering
fit, the mouth is hot and full of saliva, the
throat is sore, and if pressed upon excites a
painful cough, discharge from the nose, appe-
tite lost, pulse quick and respiration labored,
eyelids and nostrils reddened ; on applying the
ear to the side a gurgling sound is heard.

Treatment: Give the following ball in the
early stage of the disease: Nitrate of potassa,
pulverized digitalis and tartrate of antimony, of
each half a drachm, molasses sufficient to make
the ball. If the fever is not broken in twelve:
hours repeat the ball. As soon as the desired
object is obtained give one of the following
powders twice a day in a sloppy mash: nitrate
of potassa 14 ounces, nitrate of soda 6 ounces,
divide into six powders; or give the following:
Extract of belladonna 1 drachm, spirits of nitre
1 ounce, solution of acetate of ammonia 4
ounces, in half a pint of water, as a drench.
The throat and sides should be blistered; the
ordinary fly blister, made thin with turpentine,
is very good, or mustard mixed with equal parts
of water and spirits of hartshorn. Either of
the above when used should be well rubbed in
with the hand.

181

Nasal Gieet.

This is a chronic discharge from one or both
nostrils, of a whitish, muco-perulent matter,
the result usually of neglected catarrh. The
general health of the animal does not seem to
suffer; he looks well, feeds well and works well,
yet we have this discharge, which is caused by
weakness in the secretory vessels of the lining
membrane of the nose. The successful treat-
ment in all cases where this disorder has ex-
isted has been on the tonic principle; bleeding
and purging are positively injurious. Give one
of the following powders night and morning:
Seaquin-chlorid of iron 2 ounces, powdered
cinnamon 1 ounce; mix and divide into four
powders ; or carbonate of iron, pulverized gen-
tian and pulverized quassia, of each 1 ounce;
divide into four powders; or nux vomica pul-
verized 4 ounce, linseed meal 2 ounces; divide
into eight powders. Another good preparation
is muriate of baraties 4 ounce, linseed meal 1
ounce; divide into eight powders.

Canker.

This is a more aggravated form of thrush,
often proving very troublesome to manage. It
is @ continuation of the thrush between the
horny frog and the internal structures of the
foot, causing separation between them. ‘Treat-
ment: Cut away all the horn which has been
separated from the soft structures of the foot,
and apply the following ointment: Take equal
parts of pine tar and lard, melt over a slow fire
and add sulphuric acid very slowly until ebulli-
tion ceases, or use colodion 3 ounce, castor oil

182

i ounce; mix and apply to the parts. The foot
must be protected from dirt by a bandage or
a leathern boot.

Ophihalimy Simple.

Inflammation of the eye frequently occurs in
young horses soon after stabling. Symptoms:
A watery discharge from the eye, eyelids partly
closed, membrine of lid on under side much
reddened. Treatment: Give the following
ball and bleed from the angular vein under the
eye, allowing it to bleed until it stops from the
coagulation of the blood: Barbadoes aloes 6
drachms, nitrate potassa 2 drachms, tartrate of
antimony 1 drachm; mix with molasses or
honey in one ball. Bathe the eye with a salu-
tion, as follows:: Laudanum 1 ounce, rain water
1 pint; mix. Or, acetate of lead 1 drachm,
sulphate of zinc $ drachm, rain water 3 pints;
mix for use. LHither of the above may be ap-
plied with a soft sponge two or three times a
day.

Specific Ophthalmy (Moon Blindness.)

Symptoms: Membranes of the eye reddened,
opacity, or white film over the eye ball, watery
discharges from the eyes, which are partially
closed. This disease is seldom cured effectu-
ally, but the eyes may be cleared up and the
attacks warded off for some time by the follow-
ing treatment: open the bowels with the follow-
ing ball: Barbadoes aloes 1 ounce, gentian pul-
verized 2 drachms, niter pulverized 2 drachms ;
mix with molasses for one ball. Give night
and morning one-half drachm doses of colchi-
cum root in the feed, which should be mashes,

183

and bathe the eye with the following wash:
laudanum 1 ounce, rain water1 pint. Mix,
and bathe the eye two or three times a day,
Or, extract belladonna 1 drachm, rain water 1
pint; mix and use in like manner.

For Spavin:

Five ounces euphorbeum, 2 ounces Spanish
flies (fine), 1 ounce iodine, dissolved with alcho-
hol, 4 ounce red precipitate, 1 ounce corrosive
sublimate, $ ounce quicksilver, 6 ounces hog’s
lard, 6 ounces white turpentine, + pound verdi-
gris. Melt the lard and turpentine together,
then while hot add all together. Mix well,
when cold, fitforuse. Rub itin thoroughly on
the spavin every day for three days; then wash
_ clean with soap suds; omit for three days and
then repeat for three days again, and so on until
a perfect cure is produced. Should it blister,
use it more cautiously. Used with much
success.

To Cure a Weakness of the Back.

The horse is sometimes so weak in the back
he sometimes falls and is unable to get up.
Give one grain of strychnine night and morn-
ing; next equal parts of pine tar and pitch
warm until it spreads easily, and spread over
the small of the back, from the hip forward ten
inches, and across to almost the points of the
hips. Then spread on cantharides until the
pitch is thoroughly covered. Then cover with
two thicknesses of cotton flannel. To be left
on until the horse is fully recovered. Given by
A. G. Mapison, of Massilon, O.. ‘Claimed he
had cured several cases by this treatment so

184

bad that there was no use of the hind parts.
The treatment is good.

Hoof Ointment.

Take resin 4 ounces, beeswax 5 ounces, lard
2 pounds; melt together; pour in a pot, and
add 3 ounces turpentine, 2 ounces finely pul-
verized verdigris, 1 lb. tallow; stir all until
it gets cold. This is one of the best med-
icines for the hoof. It is also good for caulk
or bruises of the feet.

Moof Ointment No. 2.

Resin 4 ozs., beeswax 4 ozs., lard 2 pounds,
tallow 1 pound; melt together, and when cool
stir in oil of turpentine 4 ozs.

Thrush.

This is a rotting of the frog, with a discharge
of matter from the cleft or division of the frog,
occasionally producing lameness. The treat-
ment is simple and effectual. Wash the parts
well with soap and water, then apply powdered
sulphate of copper to the parts, and fill up all
the cavities with cotton, packed in, so as to
keep out all dirt. This process should be re-
peated in a few days if necessary.

For Stifie.

First, prepare your medicine. Take 4 quarts
white oak bark—rosked ; put in 8 quarts water ;
boil to 2 quarts. Turn off the liquid while hot,

185

and add a three-penny paper of tobacco. Now let
stand until a little above blood heat. Now heat a
flat iron or a brick, then proceed immediately to
put the stifle in its place. Now bathe it thoroughly
with the decoction about five minutes, then
apply your flat iron as near as the animal will
bear, until all absorbed. Then give the animal
rest for one hour, and if it should possibly slip out
again, repeat as before, observing care about
straining for a few days.

Warts.

These fungous growths appear in the horse
most frequently about the mouth, nose and lips;
-but they are occasionally found upon other
parts of the body. They are sometimes found
in large numbers about the lips of colts, and
are generally rubbed off, or drop. off; if,
however, they grow large and become deeply
rooted, they may be cut off. by passing a needle
through the ceuter, armed with a double thread,
and tied tightly around the neck on each side.
This prevents the possibility of the ligatures
being rubbed off. Or, they may be painted
over with the per-manganate of potash, a few
applications of which will entirely destroy
warts of a large size, or they may be removed
with a knife.

Diuretic Drops

That are reliable for stoppage of water, foul
water, or inflammation of the kidneys, in all
cases : |

Take of sweet spirits of nitre 4 ounces, balsam
copaiba 2 ounces, oil of juniper 2 ounces, spirits

186

of turpentine 2 ounces, gum camphor (pulver-
ized) 1 ounce; mix all together, and shake well,
bottle, and it is fit for use. For manor beast,
under all circumstances where a diuretic is re-
quired.

Dose: Fora horse, one ounce in a half pint of
milk once in six hours; for a man, one tea-
spoonful in a tablespoonful of milk once in six
hours. Be sure and shake the ingredients up
well before turning out for use.

For Mange, Etc:

Tar 1 ounce, sulphur 4 ounce, lard 14 ounces ;
mix. Useful in mange and other skin diseases.
Another for the same: Sulphur 14 ounces, oil
juniper 4 ounce, resin ointment 3 ounces ; mix.

To Recruit a Horse Hide-bound or Otherwise Out of
Sorts.

Nitrate potassa (or saltpetre) 4 ounces, crude
antimony 1 ounce, sulphur 3 ounces. Nitrate
of potassa and antimony should be finely pul-
verized, then add the sulphur and mix the
whole well together. Dose: A tablespoonful
of the mixture in a bran mash daily. <A favor-
ite remedy.

A Shoulder Strain.

This is caused by severe blows, strains or
falls, etc. Symptoms: The animal drags the
leg, with the toe on the ground, and cannot
raise the foot. Treatment: Local bleeding is
very effectual, with a purging ball. Fomenting
the shoulder with hot water will be found use-
ful in two or three days. The following lini-

187

ment should be applied two or three times a
day: Laudanum 1 ounce, spirits camphor 1
ounce, tincture myrrh 1 ounce, castile soap 1
ounce, alcohol 1 pint; mixforuse. Or, linseed
oil 1 pint, oil turpentine 2 ounces, spirits harts-
horn 3 ounces; mix, shake well, and use once
a day for three or four days.

Spavin and Ringbone.

These are diseases of precisely the same char-
acter, requiring the same treatment. They are
too well understood to take up time for their
consideration, in a pathological sense, in a work
_ like this.

Treatment: Blister the parts once in two
weeks, and turn out to grass. A good applica-
tion is the following: Fly blister 2 ounces, tur-
pentine 1 ounce; mixfor use. Or, fly blister 2
ounces, turpetine 1 ounce, oil origanum 4 ounce;
mix.

Splints.

Treatment: The same as for spavin, or the
following will be found to answer a good pur-
pose: Iodine ointment 1 ounce, mercurial oint-
ment $ ounce; mix and apply once a day for a
week.

The following is an excellent application for
either of the above, but must be used cau-
tiously: Powdered cantharides 1 ounce, oil of
turpentine 1 ounce, powdered cuphorbium }4
ounce, oil origanum 4 ounce, lard 8 ounces;

mix.
Blood Spavin.

If not of long standing, the following will be
found very effective though simple: Rub on

188

soft soap at night and wash off in the morning,
repeating until cured. Two or three applica-
tions will cure if recently caused. The firing
iron is the surest and safest remedy for spavin,
but must be used with skill.

Chronic Cough.

This is generally the consequence of neglect-
ed catarrh affections, worms, etc. Treatment:
Give the following ‘twice a day: Barbadoes
aloes 2 ounces, linseed meal 13 ounces; mix
with molasses; dose 1 ounce. Or, ammonia-
cum 1 ounce, squills pulverized 4 ounce, aloes
pulverized 1 ounce, linseed meal 16 ounces ;
mix with molasses and divide into four balls,
one to be given at night only.

To Cure Cough—No. 2 (Excellent).

Put all the tar into alcohol it will cut, and
add one-third in quantity of tincture belledonna.
Dose: From one to two teaspoonfuls once or
twice a day. Very good.

For Wind Galls.

Olive oil 3 ounces, nitric acid 1 ounce. Rub
in as much daily, or every second or third day,
as it will bear without starting the hair.

Palpitation of the Heart,

This disease is known to horsemen as the
‘“‘thumps,’” in consequence of the violent
action of the heart, causing a jerking or shaking
of the entire animal frame, observable at a dis-

189

tance of several yards. This disease is some-
times preceded by an obscure lameness, gen-
erally occurring in the off fore-leg, which in
medical language is termed sympathetic. »
Treatment: The worst cases yield in two
hours to the following simple treatment: Di-
vide a drachm of digitalis into five powders and
give one every fifteen minutes on the tongue.

Charbone.

1 drachm hyoceamus, 1 drachm quinine, 1
drachm aconite, 2 ounces water. Give from forty
to sixty drops every hour in water. Take the
blows and roots of alder, make a strong tea of
them, and give all the horse will drink of it.
Seton in the breasf, also back of the fore-legs,
on each side.

To Cure an Indolent Uleer.

Take the green scum that gathers on the
water in the frog ponds in the spring and sum-
mer. Boil over a slow fire; then add fresh
butter, to the consistence of an ointment. An
Indian remedy; cured an ulcer that had re-
sisted all other treatment.

Anti-Spasmodic Tincture for Man or Horse.

Oil of cajeput 1 ounce, oil of cloves 1 ounce,
oil of peppermint 1 ounce, oil of anise 1 ounce,
alcohol 1 quart. Mix all together and ‘bottle
for use. Dose for horse: 1 ounce every fifteen
minutes in a little whisky and hot water, sweet-
ened with molasses. Continue until relieved.
Dose for a man, 1 teaspoonful. The alcohol
or whisky should be omitted if given for colic.

190

Magic Liniment.

Two ounces oil of spike, 2 ounces of organ-
um, 2 ounces hemlock, 2 ounces wormwood, 4
ounces sweet oil, 2 ounces spirits ammonia, 2
ouuces gum camphor, 2 ounces spirits turpen-
tine, and 1 quart proof spirits—90 per cent.
Mix well together, and bottle tight. For
sprains, bruises, lameness,-etc., this liniment,
without turpentine, has achieved wonderful
cures for human ailments. For domestic pur-
_ poses it is invaluable. (This is pretty strong,
and must be used cautiously.) An exellent
counter irritant.

Liniment for Open Wounds.

Take sulphate of copper (copperas) one ounce,
white vitroil 2 ounces, muriate of soda (salt)
2 ounces, oil linseed two ounces, Orleans. mo-
lasses 8 ounces. Boil over a slow fire fifteen
minutes in a pint of urine all of the above in-
gredients. When nearly cold add 1 ounce of
oil of vitroil and 4 ounces of spirits of turpen- -
tine, and bottle for use. Apply to the wound
with a quill, which will soon set the wound to
discharging, and perform a cure in a few days.
Be careful to keep the wound covered either by
a bandage or a plaster. Should be applied
once or twice a day, until it discharges freely.

Stimulating Liniment for Injuries, Bruises, Etc.

Two ounces oil hemlock, 1 ounce organum, 2
ounces oil spike, 3 ounces spirits ammonia,
3 pints alcohol. Mix, and let stand for
twenty-four hours, when, if too strong, reduce
by adding one- third alcohol.

191

Sitfasts.

These are dark, hard, scabby spots upon the
back, which are dead skin, and cannot be easily
removed; but by poulticing for several days.
they become soft and may be torn off. Tincture
of myrrh, applied two or three times a day,
will generally effect a cure after_the dead skin
is removed.

Warbles.

These arise from bruises, which cause super-
ficial swellings that sometimes supperate. They
should be freely opened, and the matter well
washed out. A solution of sulphate of zine or
alum water, is all -that is required to effect a
cure.

Wind Gatis, Blood Spavins, Thoroughpins, Ete.

Two ounces salmoniac, 2 ounces alum, 2
ounces saltpetre. Put intoa pint of vinegar
and heat until dfssolved. Put on as hot as can
be borne once a day. ~

When there is much enlargement, add the
following liquid blisters ‘to half a pint of the
above, and apply once a day: 4 ounce cantha- —
rides, 1 gill alcohol, 1 gill spirits turpentine.
This is highly recommended.

Heaves.

Give 1 tablespoonful lobelia seed once a day.
At the same time keep the bowels a little re-
laxed by giving small doses of aloes, or mash-
ing. This is highly recommended. A favorite
remedy. |

192

Farey—Cure of.

One-quarter pound sulphur, § pound salt-
peter, 1 ounce black antimony. If acute, give
one tablespoonful twice a day. If sub-acute,
once or twice a week. The sum of $50 was
repeatedly paid for this prescription.

>
Serateh Ointment.

Two ounces Goulard’s extract, 2 ounces sul-
phate of zine, 8 ounces lard. This prescription
was highly valued. The medicine had a large
sale, and considered very valuable. Said to be
good for rheumatism. Invaluable for the cure
of corns, sore teats, or swelled milk bag usual
after calving. Was sold repeatedly for $10.

To Reduce Sweliing of the Legs and Strengthen the
FVendons after Hard Driving.

A favorite remedy on Long Island. One
pint alcohol, 1 ordinary sized beef gall, 1
ounce organum, 1 ounce oil spike, 1 ounce gum
myrrh, } ounce camphor gum: Frist wash and
rub clean and dry. Then bathe with the lini-
ment and rub dry. Then apply again and
bandage the leg, being careful not to bandage
too tight. This is an excellent remedy, in fact.
one of the best of liniments for strains or
bruises.

For Reducing Swelled Legs, Ete.

One tablespoonful of saltpeter to six quarts of
soft water; apply hot as possible. When there is
much inflammation add a gill of camphorated
spirits. This is also good. ae"

193 |

Wash for Reducing an Inflamed Wound.

One ounce sulphate of zine, 1 ounce crotus mar-
tes, 4 ounce sugar lead, 1 pint water. A sore will
not smell bad when this wash is used.

Wash for Fresh Wounds.

One teaspoonful white vitriol, 1 teaspoonful cop-
peras, 2 teaspoonfuls fine gunpowder; add to 1
quart of boiling water and let it stand until cool.
If the wound is deep apply with a syringe. One
of the vest of remedies for the purpose recom-
mended.

Vif ealing Lotion Ne. 2.

Tincture myrrh 1 ounce, tincture aloes 2 ounces,
water 4 pint: mix.

Liniment for Mange.

No. 1—Oil turpentine 4 ounces, oil tar 4 ounces,
linseed oil 6 ounces ; mix.

No. 2—Blue ointment 2. ounces, camphor tinc-
ture 1 ounce, spirits ammonia 2 ounces, sweet oil
6 ounces ; mix.

' For Fresh Strains, Etc.

Carbonate ammonia 2 ounces, apple vinegar }
gill. Rub in well. An excellent remedy.

Preparation to Hill Lice on Horses.

One ounce of arsenic to a pail of soft water.
The horse should be washed thoroughly in some
warm place. It is not known to many that hen
lice and common human body lice grow on horses
with great rapidity. This remedy is a sure cure,
and is invaluable. :

194

Cure of Scratches,

Four ounces tincture arnica, 4 ounces glycerine.
If heels are cracked badly add: 1 ounee iodine, 2
ounces tincture myrrh, 4 ounce gun powder (pow-
dered fine). Put all into a bottle and shake
thoroughly ; put on two or three times a day.

Seratches.

Wash the part clean with castile soap and rub
dry. Then sprinkle on hickory wood ashes. Re-
peat once a day. Given as an infallible means of
cure ; cured after everything had failed (so claimed.)

Cure of Grease Heels.

One-quarter pound bar lead melted, mix in sul-
phur while hot; let it burn until pulverized. Then
add a tablespoonful of hog’s lard. - Wash the parts
and rub on the ointment once or twice a day. A
favorite remedy, and claimed to be very effective.
Given by a physician.

Cracked Heels.

Two ounces resin, 2 ounces copperas, 2 ounces
alum, 1 ounce beeswax, 1 pint tar, size hen’s ege
of tallow; boil over a slow: fire, skim off the filth
and add the scrapings of sweet -elder a handful ;
when cool fit for use. This is a remedy of great
value; have used it with the most marked success.

To Cure Weak Eyes.

Take 3 ounce saltpetre, 1 ounce sulphate of zine,
1 ounce sugar of lead ; put in a pint of vinegar

195

and a quart of soft water; take a small sponge, sat-
urate with mixture, and squeeze in the hollow
over the eye once a day until cured. This remedy
was claimed to be very effective. Being a safe
treatment it may be tried with confidence.

Inflamed or Wounded Eyes.

Medicamentum, or Harlem oil and calomel.
Put as much of the oil as possible, with a feather,
in the eye; then fill a goose quill with calomel and
blow into the eye. Repeat twice a week.

Dr. Ives’s Treatment for Inflammation of Bowels and
Colic.

One ounce laudanum, 1 ounce spirits nitre, 1
ounce ether sulphuric, 4 pint water. Give as a
drench; if not better in from thirty minutes to an
hour repeat the dose, adding 4 ounce laudanum and
4 ounce digitalis.

To Cleanse the Blood.

One ounce saltpetre, (in winter give less salt-
petre,) 1 ounce resin, 1 ounce antimony, 1 ounce
carbonate iron, 3 ounces cream tartar ; if there is
a loss of appetite or cough add 3 ounces fenugreek
See ereene? 2 ounces licorice (pulverized) root ;

ose: Tablespoonful two or three times a day.*—
Dr. Ivzs.

Vegetable Caustic.

Make a strong lye of hickory or oak ashes, put
into an iron kettle and evaporate to the consistency
of thin molasses ; then remove into a sand bath

* Norz.—In all cases of this character bran mashes or soft
food of some kind should be given.

196

and continue the evaporation to the consistency of
honey. Keep it in a ground stopple glass jar.

This caustic is very valuable in fistulas, cancers,
scrofulas and indolent ulcers, particularly where
there are sinuses, necrosis or decay of bone, and in”
all cases where there is proud flesh, and also to ex-
cite a healthy action of the parts. It removes
fungous flesh without exciting inflammation, and
acts but little except on spongy or soft flesh.

Condition Powders.

Take 1 pound of ginger, 1 ounce of anise seed,
pulverized, 1 ounce of fenugreek seed, 2 ounces of
ginseng root pulverized, 1 ounce of the seed of
sumach berries pulverized, 1 ounce of antimony ;
mix it with 1 pound of brown sugar. This is ex-
cellent for coughs, colds, or to give a horse an
appetite.

To Cover Heaves.

Oil tar 1 ounce, oil amber 1 ounce; mix and
give 15 or 20 drops in feed daily.

Simple Liniment for Bruises and Maturating Soars

A favorite remedy and highly recommended : 1
tablespoonful of salts in a tumbler of whisky. Ap-
ply night and morning.

A Cheap Simple Liniment and Very Good.

Salmoniac and vinegar. Excellent for bruises.
Should be put on plentifully.

Purging Balls.

No. 1.—Barbadoes aloes 1 ounce, ginger pulver-
ized 1 drachm, gentian pulverized 2 drachms;
mix with molasses.

197

No. 2.—Barbadoes aloes 1 ounce, ginger pulver-
ized 1 drachm, gentian pulverized 1 drachm, croton
oil 6 drops; mix with molasses.

No. 3.—Barbadoes aloes 6 drachms, linseed meal
4 ounce, croton oil 4 to 8 drops ; mix with honey.

No. 4.— Aloes 4 t9 8 drachms, soft soap 4
drachms, linseed meal 2 drachms; molasses to
make ball.

Tonic Balls.

No. 1.—Arsenic white 6 to 8 grains, ginger 1 to
2 drachms, linseed meal 2 drachms ; molasses suf-
ficient to make ball. )

No. 2.—Sulph. copper 1 drachm, sulph. zine 1
scruple, aniseed 2 drachms, gentian J drachm;
_ molasses to make ball.

No. 8—Sulph. iron 2 drachms, gentian 2 drachms,
ginger 1 drachm, caraway seeds 4 drachm; mix

with molasses.

No. 4.—Cantharides pulverized 4 grains, sesqui-
chloride of iron 2 drachms, cinnamon pulverized 1
drachm ; mix with honey or molasses.

Flatulent Colic.

Sulphate of potash 2 ounces, gentian powdered
2 drachms ; to be given ina pint of warm water.

Powder for Sore Mouth.

_ Prepared chalk 2 ounces, charcoal pulverized 1
ounce, burnt alum 4 ounce, sulphate zinc 2 drachms;
mix.
Fever Draught for Horses.
Extract belladonna 1 drachm, spirits niter 1

ounce, sal. acetate of ammonia 4 ounces; mix.
Comp. tine. cinnamon 3 ounces, dilute sulphuric
*

198

acid 4 ounces ; mix two tablespoonfuls in a quart
of water; to be given to mares or cows in cases of
flooding.

For Diarrhoea in Horses.

Powdered opium 1 drachm, powdered kino 2
drachms, prepared chalk 4 ounce. Mix and divide
into three powders. Given at intervals of six
hours.

Curb.

This is an enlargement at the back of the hock,
about four inches below the cap, arising from
strains, bruises, breaking down of the hock, ete.

Treatment: In recent cases the part should be
bathed with tincture of iodine once a day, or use
the iodine ointment. Take a little blood from the
sephena vein, on the inside of the hind leg, above
the hock. Should this not succeed, blisters must
be resorted to. The same applications as are used
for spavin, are applicable here.

Hiow to Clean and Oil Harness.

First, take the harness apart, having each strap
and piece by itself; then wash it with warm soap
suds. When cleaned, black every part with the
following dye: One ounce extract logwood, 12
grains bi-chromate of potash, both pounded fine,
when put into two quarts of boiling rain water, and
stir until all is dissolved. When cool it may be
used. You can bottle and keep for future use if
you wish. It may be appied with a shoe brush, or
anything else convenient. When the dye has
struck in, you may oil each part with neats-foot oil,
applied with a paint brush or anything convenient.
For second oiling, use one-third castor oil and two-
thirds neats-foot oil mixed. A few hours after

199

wipe clean with a woolen cloth, which gives the
harness a glossy appearance.

This preparation does not injure the leather or
stitching, makes it soft and pliable, and obviates
the necessity of oiling as often as is necessary by
the ordinary mothod.

Gréen Ointment.

Take 6 pounds of lard, put ina ten gallon kettle,
add 2 gallons of water, cut jimson weeds and fill
them in, and cook them four to six hours slow, and
cook all the water out, then put into jars. Add to
each pound of ointment 1 ounce of turpentine.
This is eheap and good stable ointment. Good for
scratches, galls, cuts, etc.

Cure for Hog Cholera,

Chloride of lime one ounce, blue stone one ounce,
dissolved in water. This is enough for three
feeds. The corn must be soaked twelve hours in
this liquid before feeding. Feed once a day for
three days, or in case the disease is very stubborn,
feed twice a day for two or three days. This has
been thoroughly tested, and cured every case, and
may be considered a positive cure.

Worms.

Symptoms: The horse eats but will not thrive,
his belly gets big, his hair stays.

Cure: Give one quart of strong tea made of
wormwood, at night. The next day give 7 drachms
of aloes, 2 drachms of calomel. Make into a ball
and give it. Give no cold water for forty-eight
hours; make it milk warm. Give him two or
three bran mashes and some of the cleansing pow-
der. If he shows any more symptoms, repeat the
dose in three weeks. This will never fail.

200

Cleansing Powder.

This is used when the blood is out of order—
good to restore lost appetite, yellow water, etc.
Take 1 pound of good ginger, 4 ounces powdered
gentian, 1 ounce of nitre, 4 0z,, of crude antimony.
Mix all well; give one large spoonful every day
in wet food, This is perfectly safe.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Agplying, W.aL. Bridle... crcscnesrsontvanks obwessed Wdde ove adiwaieees 87
PR RATUOGIC EAD CUI Criae snsaanasesessescsnasnasseasacnqaadd lacieee? 189
ee Fassia ccaneRinathinaseekessncterenacsacries@l Live) -teile te 35
POG pespctsscccnoececors stores seorccesdenvrocerktak~ aye: 72
BGs nina. ae Ala Dadra waspinvnpinancet ears, poribananncoenr ae 177
Io oocsrisys y uavinasnsnasasaiataanissiesnnsaccsas<s peOOee eR 168
TE DBI oaesavsnaasaxcansnssaqnacsavnasanasavweaiies S56 aR aedt 187
CTR ln iianccesoaescanynscceccussochiseasnasote tly. secncsacs ene 180
le ine cicconraksreceerrorsrencorresssetiressrs schdikateereieus = 67
an ian an nbs dannisancah sins nonub’ annannasnGWibhhon ke <'iddd 28
Biting and Striking sedan scoveusbecetesesedepprsest@Gn i tMad-eashret 78
Breéeding....... skdenateand naunda ou uessasasensas4sensccEOU ONE itl- RTE 110
RI EEOAIDS, ccovcscpectarosisassver dtsnencnrnsinees sobbench «sscrce 15
Catt. must not. be; excited ......ccccrsssacacrstevasibinds Efe ah wade 16
CE io cccnccacrcccsncceccepescereisesscseeeseed0xe OTe) «RTWCOe ee
Cribbing......... pvererovasccccrrerenddewad ts Wo «dabilsels@Od- Bde seadae eh. 80
Oh igh rcesapnceereseaen nbeaanaaee ehstio ge eke). ie. ananison 143
1 SRR aa SSP 75S Eee Ladhvaddkeieceisancss ice 147
OE SOC UEE is sasnanaccaaqannsasssecneainOure wel . as. ceanictdabs -..188
BBR CT. nnnacso0c sched es buaseidesh a tuthieh » PEA csnecthassonuthceduaccast 181
CORODES FO OULD.... sre sssseroccensssecsessene esr eRtelbidede «deh fpanaidy sida’ 188
Colic, (Spasmodic) Remedies, £02. .cseeasesptviesd. cee. 163-166
CORE FIA Tilin anerane sacenncencaananncanschodib bit « seg oghodaentebil 197
Charbone........+4. AnodansesuecontsassecsaccasanskShiibeh «&0- a0 Oded tveull 189
COPBUAGION POWOCTS.1..scsccesncccensee netsh bith pho acdantsia bd swine 196
Pe III OT cana « cannes sannade saniaanassevaennignsnnnesRieShA 200
OTe cals, onn ns sasvavacasssnancasasenssanetbie sthilagh 4 Svsinlech 24564 194
eta s nannana cosa sacqacseccacanscananacdis¥ake QoehOebbna HV. un geome 198
Diuretic Drops ae AA Rmang anne sSanRANsAnansa4eGHON RD Uo « GIVE. DeLee 185
Oe gra seccrmircéinreccessesec ivereeenpnt tiie AEA 169
asso hucidanae dia saas b yasnnsasiensssanan incnvnasest 167-198
BS I eva sisinsgvnssacesscacensvavacaniuen eescaqausansnsih 33

Diseases and. theix, Treatment... ...cecccccaccaccaceecedddbiece ceuleda the

202

Education of Horses, &c.......... CG Sy svievk ont eocenenill 5
Extremes of Intelligence and Temper... .........ss00seessseesess 10
Fine Blooded Horses Require more Care......csccscsssssseseeees 13
Hustla Of “Withers...'cssssasesscvesssssnsasiordenanssseslep nae ateaienl 170
PRPCY pavncaccuwuvevawaauenetaluasine anaenh tal p uslenvepns ened aaseeerannae 192
WOGD. ci ssscssccnsksonvsncpdanbenwonsnchuateilrsvls » aniuneneueick oo aiiimnanne 39
Bear OF TOG s sicsssgipcn coonds sh2eeysvycasans nneinesteniey Ane 43
& Umbrella, Sound of a Gun, Railroad Cars......... 44
ss Objects" Wittle ‘Teiditig’ ../.j i. -2i5 ip dde ate ht os pep eamene 45
oa BUNS. .<. sacs wonsnananadanhsodwaiey maces tess ssa ene 46
BIGOT sin ccenavensesenedcevnncns/canze onan sas quseeuntannel penne 121
Peed ne Colts, 20. ..n00ssssscenn00sssenesbasendal deuninnshhe eee 125
RWCE TITRE ose se cn vvesopcsescness hetevaceravens’ sees casa nti 197
Par Preah BCrASisss sess vccsesceashas Suede smnnas ana vaseieadeenpaasiie 193
For Stifle.. See
For Reducing “Swelled “Legs... bose. oocledc boss ootssh senda aaemnan
HOE | SPAV Ns vorcereevereosesecaresovsinsvesacver sul ob Covboncleetheeubeas 183
HOE Wind -Gallssercsccecerssscccssccevaee dhpxibnvga covonsogudessassupuih 188
Four. Ring Bit.....ccocsesccccssconvess eeatbcncs seccanoceeusaheitn neeeates 88
BGOt SU AP.cecrvweresscewwsensssecveusssnsiewessneys inesienh wi Sia heel 90
GPEA6 TOOL. 6.0 ie ce rewwvessenewwesevasenduew esses veceiniurmedatt wane 168-194
Getting Cast in Stall........... isaviv'd doen ewiwd ventewwenennel Sait 82
ERORHOR ss sicesseviecsavizecsaiessdngsecsastieds ciduadneoueuwan svonsnenebebGen 191
HOOF: OintMeNtsraccirvevercecesvraccscsasvrsccrcracnss eer 184
Healing’. Lotionssss.ewessevousssseuseverssvecresevevivesersseranee 193
Handling the Feet.......sscsesessscrsessccseeeenscseesseeeessesenens 37
ERGChing: in. Wagons. cccccivessvevedscanvueedcesvavesoneiws wadecasebh 32
Hlfiching - Coltsvccccssvercsascvwsctacsnesvapsevcse vues satleasiteidehnntiny 27.
How to. Clean Harness. ..covesesisvvesecosecsecsertsictiteshtbudeevedes 198
Hog Cholera, Cure for.. oo bos cen nes epscnsece ste.ens edie ene
How Dexter is Fed and “Watered... Weasescensceeoenve ses casmeseeeninie 125
Tndication. of ‘Character.s...cosssvesccesscesesccosvenessents sumuenes 13
TIGCTICTING vos cccsicsssccesteassonscnscccessessuaesedscshs eh <assereneee «149
Inflammation of . Bowels.ic..vcesecwsecewcevweresccey svadunde daub 162
Kf , ef Dr. Ives’ Hemey, LOR <esrseuvesovaenays 195
Inflammation of Lungs............ « +... 156-160
Inflammation of Kidneys... sudosenvebe’ West bavseedidt bie iibeiusagnes 166
Inflammation of Bladder.....wewvecswenssvsesseneecenddokeuedenes .166
Intammation Of . Brain..sscvssasceacerstesasunnadencaxts svedeeccdanls 173
Inflamed Wounds, Wash for......cscsccessesees od ich ean preetese 193
TRB GAGA or rwiiresonnveciuden'euwedeevevsesthevevndsineryss bhlalk see 179
Indolent: Ulcer, Oure. Ofiviccvcecccydovevericeesvcerszveeststnatne 189
Inflamed. or. Wounded Byes.........cccsescsevesessveceveseunssarees 195
Jumping OVEr FENces.1v..wwwssevvvecscvvvsesverseveveoivasheboansaiee tam
Kiss —Shake Hands....irscsostsnsennressececveresesnece reeceus poatinl 133
BACK 2 COWS ..ccoveensssaddwovsseveaavaiievesee 6 aveewend scoqagestetue 86
BSN O88 40 ciwevcvevessscevevesvsewenensetwendens «cost veneevelnenan se 10

Kicking in Stall........ cbenvideibieaed eee ee bint eal wwlnnhs

203

Kicking on Stall........ bediwccpeSuslaewevrwewiensapcgheds eas ecevcecene 85
SARA ATE DMMPUOI G56 os ccvedeceyecdsonndvecceUeensetbacbobbices eheae 56

a PUEBMPOTecs sees es cietabiscsscotecseesdassdhensnesdeseresce 59

SE Sp RRURRGY ERMMMNCMRET I Ls Laces ca das didi ddsdd ddatecwcd vecketene see 62

ss Et POO OATAD, ola iae Ve ise dd ccldvddvtecdavatereversantes 63

& SEP MANINNIM SS 5 52a 2550545 47usce ahs eheved cb eeweuess cuneate 63
MMNMEMEAUNMN NS CURD Gans sdry sce pspscavce-sebadtouasiacugiobarermarctad cece 193
RMRPANRAME SGN Jeted states eedded casein «add dusadddoos ces ces sbanee eon terces 169
RPMI Cust ati avi alu Gti se Uwcbias tok puu'sdeeh snuusiescusipichwacde ans 177
I IW th aca cue vec ssi csGstieuuis secudeeutbikekusabsvcaees'ens 64d brace 178
Mammen FOTN Genii bis cc esis oes ses acca ikki cedabbecicaebahesentvens 196
Ennmment for: Open: Wounds: ....ccevisccccstedessdesccvasévnssgieasens 190
RN MIR SA cia ielsvatyclvn laldelevd decided dudueulgucseousl Up ear aavaeps 130
Lu a WTSI EEE EET eLLUCCEE LEAT CECE CeT SEPP ELaP Eerie Peete Oe 171
Mange—Liniment, f0r......0c.0 ccc ce. ccs ces coe cevcee can sccensens 186-193
Ne MMMINOU AL Suis Sad TUS7eda Noes toe ook Deincocdacbucdbeeereads scans’ 190
Make a Bow—Say No.....0.0...ccceccceccccccsceccsocees Sagsascuapepe 132
Must see Objects from Different Positions...............cceceeeee 47
HEMI 0! sly aetly celiac Saw vad JL0 aan Selvoeeld sulcdede'e'd snleswocseadunas trek 181
Peete SROMCH AME Nadine ies )o3cfjccseclddscdgpens duccscavdanscnscence 141
Ophthalma, Simple........ sbvesiobabeteeabetasapbonesnnenten waucsnem 182
Pintmment, Greetssc.sscscessc eens esse b dabiiotdub'detieds Sax din ath dears 199
PPGMMBO SALINE, 5 05505585 5 des sseae0e Panulasaltenc ten terse esate oatasaas 172
POH Mivili.icsccess.c We tessa date tde seaward ccdeus seo weo nse tachpante cca ane 170
Pricking.....-:<: deceedayupetosncerdpiaazes eesetare Jove cdengipnaandasdaxae 150
Bremen OR TAR CON is esses i sadssssd isd ddsddiscecd cactohares aoneovace 77
Putting Tongue out of Mouth........ edeNoded igsuadtdenneeesedtatees 82
Mem WpaMEN UR SGA 5355s ate Lees ieee yey y sina gh eb stunseseasscepes nes 85
Pulling on Bit, Turning Around while Driving, ape an 85
OUTTA hui hine bal Ove beN sab suit WW edenedabvscdsccwacapdelecsesoonsdes 158
renee RAMA fires cmesieesediieraesvdediveastes tassvessaadassdserecess 196
See ptaMtaOn OE Teart sia esheets leap seep oes Bcdea ds lovedonsns 188
Preparation to: Kall Lice. .....csi0iie li auec esse pec eestoccces cnssase 193
parton Crackissneivsvosivisee very se ccives eas Pacivagieade vesucrutoursens 148
IRIE es cttia stieved bun cbt avers au ulves ved cb pine sweciding sue nvelape coe pee 171
PRP MTMAARIO ions eek VasWedeuvevarasteseTlost.acaceskeeses Pedi ye Bert ee 175
BRM Can ec ceva Weuis bub NPDES AAO c weno pet seemabce se casostecte 35
Running Back............+4 fheteger cedecsszdithie i saavancieasenaecdnsctes 55
Running AWAY......sccccsccecsereses fscuvonyepecesvacgessonsans Mudaee §2
PCR YM sc ssd sates esui kb aadsbituhesasciscsitbanssbasstesccerssaseces 50
Sore Mouth. ....cccscsscescsccsccsssescccssccscssccsasccecccscesece 177-197
BRISO ATOR sisuesecnes coves yev0es plRasdeaesaevade Auatsdedéadavapsvesnans 178
PRE Dovesbes Wiswbiessevaesecesvetedarsece (utah spr csndesenavancroness 178
PRR RMENG cuca vuui bees pels cede kccssscUSouuensewsceasacsspns apmaas 172
Re MMMM STU fa deduodstunv'estssccsccecdddccncacs+eccevsncccapneness 172
Spavin, ming Bone and: Splints....02.5522.20.00..20ce sc oc .cconsee uve 187
Poe HRA OPA RAR Ti Lice sicassd ssc sss sastedaddenetoagecaccscnce ease meas 182

Stimulating Liniment for Open Wounds...........t.sssseeeeees 190

§

204 .

Stomach Staggers.......+++ bs ceunsi SeeReePaee) ache pakidcaes iva cucdiatnd ROT
TARTS oo os cee cueheatansust ecevysccabanaseceesdcdnhQGhitheh oknncanannmnans 191
MOPGtRINOS, ss) csautaceuten tes duaivcuesyvaGebeuet cows eGQhQehben ceanene 168-194
Shoulder STAN. cerancscreccasrassasanacasessecdsrdceidee colleeenee seeuae 186
Stone in. Bladder is asiderncosdsncansaaainensatsselescskndecs chien 170
Seratoh Oin bmen becaiaadarsroscancnnaansonanacituboechecees kaaeueseann 192
Swelling of Legs, Remedy f0r.......ceeceecereceeceeeeeeneeeeas eee Ow
Simple Liniment,,.....ccccccrcccceccsceccecccncencescncceneeesees 196
Shoeing...rs92s NOE en Ree ee er civ Sabune Vib naneonubeaneiae sweckile seve B4
Sweating, PEO, s avvnavvnans sevextinn ebiwiuiaabenyectan’ viveaal Vibe dimes
OS ee errr eee a aips ve vacseecesccen casi bqmaeeenee seeded T
Sit Up REE eee rene ee speseneeeeeneeenseeeeeeeeeerenee sen
Turning ATOUN......-00crcrscerenaracnssecsnnensnessonssnnensanessnss . 68
Tr otting Be Ey oe ee ree eek deduinees maceusade<candeeseesuenaenennae 91
Teaching eg Cl to Re Oe Te oc bonstieess 5 owpecebecin Lewetagntidt 128
To Follow—Follow with LE eee déigh ope 128
TING BOG iasenasscdsapancencsanasnddinandesn ns ccddvie = Weptewes Gann 188
Truth and Unifor soeieeneih issone shed shunts peal hen’ binder ates (ened cues bald’ 8
Thrush .. oj ADAASnan A AtaAdp.avband nee.nnb atone nian Deena
To Kill Tice... npo.nre ono mnpandinna dobian' Wale bab bith sa khtinaunnae nine
Tonic Balls.. sssrverseranenennstneevennstsneenanstseesedT
‘To Cover Heaves.. se sons biases ace oes Siete a a
To Cleanse the Blood.. de WANED
To Recruit a Horse Hide- “Bound. or r Out. of Sorts... uk eke 186
To Reduce Swelling of the eens > asnea KC
To Cure Weak Back.. vpasnaanssidananedsientn lie aiiean
To Cure Weak Eyes... ann.cedl Gus vib dnelngs 36560 (MNS aNSN sgh MSRRE EE
To Cure Cough.. Te
To Cure an Tadolent ‘Uleer... adbov'gnhi sud Wes uals yeumnbedbGhe RbGuMeRtnee
Vegetablé Caustic.. sstnnnninnnnneneneen arse nseesneee 9B
War bles... Te «191
Wash for Fr esh Wounds,. ascnisehGectihisibidie 198
Wash for Reducing an Inflamed W ‘ound: bchdiata sinks dahil sass
Wind Galls, Blood SPANING, Giudsrrsevvrensisoens pers we ee 191
OTIS iS ts he sveniditerdaioaslal ee rere 175-199
SHEP OOEE | TIOHEID occ tsa esas insnepauidaineteinn Geiiiieatenaseanall sense nbbdanbabesedinel 177
MEMOIR Gel bina bs thts tancesey vesebuanae ss Gn'denevucvésyocees Suen 2000 BH
DE Re eee Seiai eee eT
Whipping Dangerous,.,....cerrereee eroneses ca noonyuite meer ssievsee 7
WAY AGL COTE, o ouc20500005000906000088'ass 0 0NGs 0k bcensissuniemneelielennnnnnnnnE 24
W ante Heels —Shoen, ....ss2ncarnsanneedneacsannanncennsnueledlaneaeanee
WINTER Ss 55 cas ch nnAA AAA ARAANDRAAAANOUICA NAA OAOINRIE anata veeeee 26

: TH H
. } ¥

NEW SYSTHM

Epucatinc HORsEs.

ILLUSTRATED.)

[INCLUDING

INSTRUCTIONS ON TROTTING;

Feed, Water and Take Care of Horses; How to
Raise Sound, Gentle, Saleable Horses,
and Teach to do Tricks.

A TREATISE ON SHOEKING.

SIMPLE SAFE TREATMENT FOR THE MOST COMMON FORMS OF
ACUTE DISKASES, ALSO A

LARGE NUMBER OF VALUABLE RECIPES

NOT BEFORK PUBLISHED.

EIGHTH EDITION, WRITTEN ANEW

EXPRESSLY FOR THE USE OF THOSE WHO HAVE TAKEN LESSONS OF
PROFS. MAGNER & GAGE.
Parties assnming to teach the New System, and sell this Book, who are not
authorized by special permission, are unworthy of confidence. and
make themselves liable to prosecution.

aa eee ———
y ROCHESTER, N. Y. y
re EVENING EXPRESS BOOK PRINTING ESTABLISHMENT. sf

BAS PALL |G
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Ayn

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