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LONDON, MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, ADELAIDE, ano BRISBANE 1909 ae iin fhe me _ Wet That hit jt j Per Be ak bt hg LR ee 4 ; } a: BR A R P \ PRINTED IN ENGLAND i JUL 1 1 1967 by, 9 LV Wa Eesiry op TOROS PREFACE I THINK it was Sir Walter Besant who advised the young aspiring novelist that the great requisite for success in the field of fiction was experience. Louis Becke is a striking proof of this. When asked by Mr. Archibald, then Editor of the Sydney Bulletin, to write the stories he had been telling vzvd voce, the trader complained that he could not; that, in fact, he had never written anything in his life. ‘Write them just as you have told them,’ was Archibald’s advice, and the result was those delightful tales of the South Sea Islands, entitled By Reef and Palm. Even poor writers with experience at their backs are more convincing than fine writers who lack that invaluable stock-in-trade. It is only the enthusiast who has ridden over fences who knows the joy and exhilaration of hunting. It is only the man who has lived in the far-removed ‘out-beyond, who has wandered over the great plains, studied the weird scenery, watched the kangaroo bound along, the gaudy parrot flash by, has inhaled the sweet scent which the trees, the shrubs, and the grass contain, and has grown familiar with the thousand and one haunting sights, sounds, and silences which prevail, who can under- stand the charm and poetry of the Australian Vv IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS Bush. And so one could go on citing innumerable similar cases. During my fifteen years on the press any articles of mine which have lived for more than a little day have always been those written from actual experience. This is all by way of preliminary to the important fact that Mr. Alfred Searcy knows the north coast of Australia. For fourteen years he was stationed at Port Darwin as Sub-Collector of Customs, and without any attempt at fine writing, he has told the story of that novel and exciting period in his life of hard work, of his adven- tures py land and sea, of ‘moving accidents,’ and ‘hair- breadth ’scapes.’ Anything which Mr. Searcy has set down, if not an actual personal experience—and that is the foundation of the great portion of the book—is at least an absolute fact which can be verified. In not a single instance has Mr. Searcy done any romancing. The following telegram from Melbourne appeared in the South Australian Register newspaper on September 9, 1904 :— ‘The Malays who man the proas which sail down from Macassar to Port Bowen, in the Northern Territory, are sus- pected by officers of the Customs Department of smuggling, and it was recently suggested that some of their number also obtained admission to Australia despite the Immigration Restriction Ac: After considering these representations, the Minister for Customs determined to close Port Bowen as a reporting station from January 1, and make oversea Asiatics who wish to engage in the trepang industry go to Port Darwin. It is believed that the trade- winds will not enable proas to go to Port Darwin, and therefore they vi PREFACE will in all probability be prevented from visiting Northern Australia.’ That telegram was read and re-read by Mr. Searcy, the Acting Clerk of the House of Assembly, with intense interest. Just over twenty years before, Mr. Searcy went along the coast, made seizures and levied fines, and arranged that the proas should report at Oojountam- banoonoo in Bowen Straits, instead of Port Essington. The Macassar proas were discovered on February 17, 1803, in the Malay Road, south of Cotton Islands (English Company’s Islands), by Captain Flinders ; and on March 27, 1884, when on a cruise in search of proas which had failed to procure the necessary licences, Mr. Searcy anchored in almost the identical place where Flinders first sighted them in February 1803, eighty-one years before. I was told off to go and interview Mr. Searcy and write an article about Malay proas. He told me of his several cruises after the men from Macassar, and the one article developed into four. Such great interest was taken in the interviews with Mr. Searcy that numer- ous correspondents wrote asking that the articles might be extended. I dropped down from the Hansard Gallery one night, and in the course of a smoke and a chat it was decided to continue the narratives. The succeed- ing articles dealt with hunting buffalo and wild cattle, justified the term ‘Sportsman’s Paradise’ with regard to the Northern Territory of South Australia, detailed exciting experiences with alligators, recorded some of the hard work which fell to the lot of the sub-collector, told of the pioneers at the extreme outposts of civilisa- Vil IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS tion, recalled the history of those early military settlements at Fort Dundas, on Melville Island, and Kaffles Bay, and Port Essington on the mainland, recounted inci- dents which explained the character of the treacherous aborigines, and in many other ways delighted the reader. These articles were published in pamphlet form by the authority of the South Australian Government. That publication is but the skeleton of the present book, which is charged full of thrilling experiences from beginning to end. Both Mr. Louis Becke and Mr. Frank Bullen, those adventurous spirits of the sea, told Mr. Searcy, after reading his pamphlet, that with such abundant experiences to work on they could have knocked together a dozen books. I write this in Mr. Searcy’s den at his own private house, which by reason of the many relics of the Northern Territory which hang on the walls has a distinct atmosphere of the Orient about it. Among the curiosities are the long pods of the Queensland bean; the fruit of the baobab, as big as an emu egg, from the tree under which Gregory the explorer camped on the Victoria River: woomeras from Port Essington; a photograph of Stuart’s tree, framed in a piece of wood taken from a branch of the memorable landmark in connection with the historic crossing of the Australian continent; and a human skull picked up outside the police camp on Mount M‘Minn. A piece of blood- stained, jagged spear from Melville Island is the memento of a tragedy. A party of whites were on the island, and a mainland black boy they had with them was speared Vili ee PREFACE by the wild niggers. The weapon went right into the unfortunate boy’s body, and Mr. Searcy possesses the piece which was sawn off the spear close to the flesh, The victim did not live long. Two teeth, four inches long, taken from a dead alligator near Stuart’s tree, give one an idea of the fearful damage the monster could have done with its jaws. Two Malay knives are relics of the Cape Brogden massacre, which Mr. Searcy fully describes. The portion of the main beam of the Flying Cloud, in which Mr. Searcy had his first cruise, and which contained the official number and the tonnage, hangs over the mantelpiece. The immense tusk of a dugong, a peculiar fish with flesh like pork, articles made from tortoise-shell and pearl-shell, curious fossils, and several ugly weapons of the swordfish, have all a personal interest for Mr. Searcy. A number of pencil- sketches by a haif-caste named Flannagan, who was executed for murder. are highly prized. Flannagan killed a man on the Victoria River over a game of cards, and he drew the sketches while he was under sentence of death. His fancy seemed to run in the direction of horses and bushmen. The sketches are remindful oi though they show a great improvement on, the primitive art of the earliest race. On the verandah, buffalo horns and turtle shells hang. A bit of brick from Melville Island, and made about 1825, recalls the military settlements on the northern shores of Aus- tralia. But the interest of the relics is making this preface too lengthy. Although it languishes, the Northern Territory, or ix IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS ‘Land of the Dawning,’ as it has appropriately been called, is a wonderful country, and is destined to prove of vital importance to the Empire. Any one who wants to learn all about it can safely be recommended to read /n Australian Tropics. ERNEST WHITINGTON, South Australian Register. CON TENTS CHAPTER I THE NORTHERN TERRITORY Annexed to South Australia—Area, etc. —Coast—Description— Ancient discovery of Australia—What might have been—Dutch East India Company—Early discovery of gold—Ancient cannon —Dingo andits origin. . . . : . CHAPTER II WHY I WENT TO PORT DARWIN Trip through Barrier—Dead Chinamen—On a reef—Port Darwin— Impressions : . = . : - . CHAPTER SI} FIRST VOYAGE IN THE ‘FLYING CLOUD ’ Malays on the north coast—First sighted by Captain Flinders—Siil in cutter Flying Cloud—Port Essington—F. O. Robinson—Leave Port Essington—Sight proa—Bowen Straits—Dredging canoes and proas— Tortoise-shell—Smoke-houses — Aborigines — Bapa Paloe—After birds—Fresh-water and mangrove swamps— More proas—Pearls—Turtle—Mount Morris Bay—Buffalo-shooting— Back to Port Essington—Blacks and grog—All about buffalo— Paddy Cahill—Home . ° : . ° . CHAPTER IV SECOND VOYAGE IN THE ‘FLYING CLOUD Vicissitudes of proas—Trepanging on Melville Island—Fights be- tween Malays and blacks—Sail for Port Essington—Strong tides xi PAGE 1-7 8-12 13-43 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS PAGE —Port Essington—Trepang camp—Trepang Bay—On a reef— Wreck of yacht Red Gauntlet —Off reef—Hard pull to Robin- son’s camp—/lying Cloud—Cockroaches and rats—Old military settlement—Ducks, geese, and pigeons—Wild ponies—Roast oysters and gin—Bower birds—Rifle and revolver shooting— Spear-throwing—‘ Fair start ’»__How to beat up eggs—‘ Corpse reviver ’—Shower-bath—‘ Flash Poll ’—Pretty Maryanagenee _—_Nor’-wester—Knocker Bay—Hunting wild cattle—Venomous snakes—‘ Him bite, you dead’—Dead snake and Malay--Billy —Turtle Point—Rock and mangrove oysters—Niggers fish- ing —Catch a fowl—Dugong—Strength of alligators—Sucking eggs— Marine music—Christmas Day—Bowen Straits—Collect- ing duties from proas—Defied by Malay captain—Draw revolvers —Killing not murder—Cocker Island—Jungle fowl—‘ Moyout’ —Alligator River niggers—Threaten murder—Departure— Grief of niggers—Bad time—Clarence Straits—Buoys—Last of Flying Cloud 5 : ° ° e ° « 44-75 CHAPTER V CRUISE IN THE S.S. ‘FLEETWING’ Murders by Alligator River niggers—Soo Hoo Yoke, interpreter ana Christian—Corner in opium—s.S. Fleetwing—Departure— Boiler leaks—Sree Pas Sair—Too much black bottle—E. O. Robinson—Goulburn Islands—Proas—Fines—Getting wood— Malay customs—Surgical operation—Mangrove as fuel—Haul round Island, Liverpool River—Catching birds—Entrance Island—Find timber—Bad niggers—Macassars and bloodshed Fine camping-place—Tow-line fishing —Cadell Straits—Sharks —Suspicious niggers—Cutting timber—Careless men—Alligator —‘Boom boom’—Cadell—Knowing young buck—Stuck in straits—Gale and rain—Our ‘old man ’—Wonderful whistler— Miserable time—Find channel—Flying-foxes not wombats— ‘Qh, damn !’—Arnheim Bay—Grave of murdered Malay skipper —Unsurveyed waters—‘ Bier ’—‘ I see canoe ’—Mallison Island —Bapa Paloe again—Transformation scene—Cotton Island— Anchoron top of reef—Casuarinas and green ants—Terrible tides —Malay Road—Melville Bay, Gulf of Carpentaria— More proas —Fines—Likely country for gold—Cadado big captain—Steal Malay rice—Looking-glasses—Malays kill Cadado—Start for home—Black women in Cadel Straits—Port Essington—Home —Malays smuggle spirits : F : ° « | 7O-gF xii CONTENTS CHAPTER VI VOYAGE OF THE S.S. ‘PALMERSTON’ PACE Captain Carrington—Short commons—Good /ntent—Leave Port Darwin—Bad weather—Melville Island—Oojountambanoonoo —Robinson mad—‘ Flash Poll’ again—Dylompo, Groote Island— Roper River—Aground on a sandbank— Narrow escape —Discovery of the Roper— Young Australian—‘ Hot toddy’— Leichardt’s Bar—Ketch Good Intent seized and crew arrested —Grog shanty—Mount M‘Minn—Testing liquors—Seamen on board horses—‘ Hell’s Gate ’—Square face, cards, and Wor- cester sauce—Nicknames—-Hard cases—Kill a bullock—‘ Is your breath sweet?’—Paper money—Myall nigger boy— ‘Virtue,’ Myall nigger and nanto—Nipped by a shark— Abori- ginal dwelling—Game and alligators—Frogs— Fearful thunder- storms—Maria Island—Sacred spots—Pellew Group—Proas— Bapa Paloe again—M ‘Arthur River—Black’s camp—William M‘Leod—Arrest owner of Good Jntent and his wife—Seize station stores—Large mob of cattle—No grog for drovers—Pull store down and load Good Jntent—Camp at M‘Arthur—Survey- ing—Hot weather—Cattle bells—Flies, etc.—Native com- panions—Back blockers—Expensive shout—Silver watches— Leave M‘Arthur with Good Intent in tow—Malay money— Life threatened—Queer grog—Customs of aborigines—Malay camping-places . . . . . ° » 98-135 CHAPTER VII LAST TRIP OF THE S.S. ‘ELLENGOWAN Customs authorities defied—Old mission steamer Z//engowan—Bad workmanship and careless surveying—Captain Macredie— Engineer Griffy—Like half-tide rock—Bad gale, steamer constantly breaking down—‘ Can’t make the land; all up with us’—Short of water—Selfish man—Can’t go astern—Melville Bay—No water—Connection Island—Good fishing—Dig for water and cut fuel—Maria Island old coal—In Roper—Smell the bottom—Depot Leichardt’s Bar—Hole in side of steamer— Mixed crowd—Rotten curry powder—Brumby hunters—Cattle duffers—Horse thieves—Trousers wash—Alligator not a log— Barefaced robbery—‘ Ragged Thirteen ’—‘ Paddy the Priest ’— Terms of endearment—Shanty-keeper—Bum-boats—Fire-stick in shanty—Delirium tremens—Great endurance—Poor old Power—‘ To the store’—Start again—On the rocks and sand- bank —Steal a case of meat—Short commons—‘ Look, Bunga- Xili IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS wah ’—Great fires—Maria Island again and more coal-humping —In the M‘Arthur River—Lost in Batten’s Creek—‘ Boroloola, trrrr’—Heavy dews—Hungry—‘I see _ schooner ’—Seize schooner—Malarial fever—Woman dies—Settlement in state of chaos—Unspeakable crimes—Salt down beef—Release schooner on payment of fines—Start for steamer—Lost in man- grove creeks—Alligators—Bad night—Want oil—See black fish—Luck turns—Fine trip home ° : ° CHAPTER VIII TO THE EASTWARD AGAIN Go for Malay money in s.s. Victoria—Get out of Dobbo—Quick trip S.S. —s.s. Active—Goyder River—Darcy Uhr—Strike rock—In the M‘Arthur—Borroloola—No grog or tucker—Trooper Donegan —Horses stolen and recovered—‘ Humping their Blueys’— Digs his own grave—Donegan’s work—Queensland policeman— Assisted into river—Arrest of self-appointed Customs officers — Prisoner stuns policeman—Kills black tracker—Black women and cattlemen—Nigger camp wiped out—‘ Killed to date, thirty-seven ’—Life in own hands—Punishing niggers—Smart trick by blacks—Selling a booth—Up against a snag—Divorce demanded—Black tribes exchange children—Outlaw rule— Light side of policeman life in the out-beyond—Through mud and water—Start for Roper—Heavy flood—Smash some trees —At the Goyder River again—Two men murdered—Immense banyan— Larrikin escapes—Find damaged boat—See niggers— Murderers recognised—Martini strong argument—Destroyed camp—Bad niggers—Florida Station—Start for home—Bad time ° ° . : . . . ’ CHAPTER IX TO THE WEST IN SEARCH OF MALAY PROAS Adelatde—Plenty of sharks—See niggers—Hard pull—‘ Corpse reviver’—Search coast—Ferocious niggers—Port Keats— Terrible massacre—Boring party attacked— Peculiar race— Cannibals—Glass spear-heads—Treachery Bay—Why named —Captain Stokes speared—Bowing mangroves—‘ Look out, Searcy’—Niggers around us—Back to boat—Threatening niggers—‘ Chin Chin Joss’—Fossil Head—No signs of Malays XivV PAGE 136-166 167-187 188-199 CONTENTS CHAPTER X A TRIP TO THE VICTORIA RIVER PAGE Through a tide race—Noble river—Dream unrealised—Holdfast Reach—Quicksands—Frowning sandstone ridges—Scowling sombre passes—Weird country—Terrible Mosquito Flats— Hard work—Fearful tides—Jeering cockatoos—Curiosity Peak —At the depot—Jasper Creek Gorge—Niggers attack teamsters —Great suffering—A duel—Glass spear-heads—Gregory’s old camp—Baobab-trees—Timber Creek—Cutting out a flying-fox —Bromli kites—Cold south-easters—One hundred mile pull . 200-210 CHAPTER XI THE CAPE BROGDEN MASSACRE Rumours of the tragedy—Inspector Foelsche—Party leaves—Bowen Straits—Secure witnesses—Hard walk—Cape Brogden—Heavy surf — Difficult landing — Mangerippy — Peaceful scene— Bloody work—Dig up bodies—Skulls and trousers—Search for an arrest of murderers—Wandy Wandy—‘ Mr. Searcy, I no’ do it’—Mangerippy tells the story—Strange proa—Qualitied judge —Murderer Wandy Wandy executed . ° ° + 211-218 CHAPTER XII EARLY MILITARY SETTLEMENTS—FORT DUNDAS Early experiences—Failure—Sail up Apsley Straits—Fort Dundas, Barlow Point—Old-time soldier—Ruins church—Graveyard— Nigger camps—Shelters and sleeping-places—Stone axes— Cycas media—Bark bags—Garden Point—Oild bricks—A bogie —Sand-flies—Devil-devil—Bathurst Island—Buffalo tracks— * Two canoes on cliff’—Nigger watching—Signal fires—Niggers —‘ Arra boom ’—Funny little ways—Down the Straits at night —‘ God help him !’—On the coral reefs—Buffalo camp—Hunter wounded—Poor Flynn—Good boys—Mainland boys—Main- land visited by Melville Islanders—Carry off women—Inferior weapons—De Rougemont’s account impossible—Boy speared— Successful buffalo-hunters — Inbreeding— Island niggers— Reverence for dead—Canoes—The islands—Cultivation of rubber . ¢ : és 4 4 ; . 219-240 XV IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS CHAPTER XIII THE DALY RIVER PAGE My first visit—Alligators—Terrible death—Shooting the ’gators— Niggers mauled—Another terrible death—Chinese fisherman mauled—Surveyors—Mosquitoes—Simply Hades—Great drive —Tall grass—Beautiful lagoon—Fine shooting—Copper-mine —Scene of great tragedy—Nigger telegraphy—Reprisals— Chinese murderer — Miscarriage of justice— ‘ Long-legged Charlie ’— Expected gun accident — Borers—Jesuit Mission Station—Lynch amongst the niggers—Brutal murder—Don’t like police or doctors—Sigh of peace—Spear in toes—Nigger grave—Signs of grief—Born deceivers—‘ Singing a man dead’ Bore in Daly—At a plantation—Mosquitoes—Circus in net— Experiences in a net—‘ Look out, Footsack, niggers’—Bad nigger country—Amongst the ducks—Great water-melon— Plantation scene of tragedy—Miner wants a wash—In middle of river—Bunch of alligators—Another turn at the ducks— Act ‘slushy ’—-Great stew 5 5 3 ° » 206-214 CHAPTER XIV THE ADELAIDE RIVER, AND MORE ABOUT ALLIGATORS Fresh water required—Chinese water-carriers—Rice cultivation— ‘ All same Saigon’—Up the river—Game—Bag an alligator— ’Gator near baths—’Gator as tucker—Boy stung to death— *Gator eggs ‘all same hen eggs’—Kicked by an alligator— Capture by niggers—Increase of nests— Four days’ shooting— Taste for dogs—Niggers seized—Escape—‘ White pfeller doctor ’—Beatrice Hills—Down the lazaret—Take in water— Amongst the pigmy geese—Getting through a lagoon—Collapse —Great shooting—Alligator alongside boat—Quiet niggers . 261-273 CHAPTER xv STUART’S TREE Monument to Stuart—Arrival in Adelaide—Old-time exploring— Sugar cakes—Non-discovery of landmark—Discovery—Visit to tree—Dead alligator—J. M. D. S.—Fine teeth—Stuart’s party . ° . . . . . + 274-297 Xvi CONTENTS CHAPTER XVI ESCAPE CLIFFS Why named—Dancing to accompaniment of spears—First settle- ment — Dissatisfaction and insubordination — Forlorn Hope— Great waste of money—Men speared—‘ Punitive expedition !’ Dombey and Son—Rifle practice—Explorer M‘Kinley—Horse- hide boat—Terrible voyage - : CHAPTER XVII INHUMAN BRUTALITY Brutal white men—Horses shot, tomahawked, and hamstrung— Ringleader as a buffalo - shooter — Cold - blooded murder— Terrible scene—Blacks spear and strike body—Embezzlement Murderer arrested—Realistic acting by niggers—Guilty— Imprisonment for life — Released — Trepanging — Nemesis around—Done to death . : . ° CHAPTER XVIII A SPORTSMAN’S PARADISE Jungles and lagoons—Day with the geese—‘ Hungry Flat’— All same old man goose ’—Night at lagoon—With the kangaroo— ‘Look out, kangaroo walk ’—‘ Mr. Gun Breakem’—At the Casuarinas—‘ Slushy ’—Kangaroo-tail soup—Niggers cook their supper—New chums—‘ Out with the evening tide’—Good day’s sport—Butcher disgusted— Wasps’ nests—Close up short nigger—Hunting on horseback—Snakes—‘ Corpse’— Pythons —Caught by old soldier—Cane-brake—Black cockatoos—Fans —Uncanny bird—Marvellous intelligence—Frightens nigger— Owner would not part with bird—Buried together—Beautiful small birds—Parrots—Game and snakes at Point Charles— Warm bath ° . . . ° CHAPTER XIX DEEP-SEA FISHING Fish plentiful—Many varieties—‘ Town Hall »__Southport—Rush- ing waters—My canoe— Anchors—Sharks and Pedro—Canoe and shark —Bait—Prawns—Fine net—Kangaroo fish— Chinese b Xvil PAGE . 280-285 286-290 . 291-303 IN AUSTRALIAN ST ROPICS PAGE fishing nets—Sun-fish—Water-snakes—Turtle—Turtle eggs— Alligators like turtle—Crabs—In the mud—Chance alligators— Prawns . P 5 : ~ 5 . » 304-314 CHAPTER Xx PEARLING AND DIVING Swimming divers — Rush of boats— Rough crowd — Powerful Sergeant Waters — Peculiar prospecting — Japanese exploit industry— Wonderful medicine—Prosecute friend for smuggling —Won’t speak — Hot day—‘ Whisky and Soda’— Friends again—Fishing on pearling ground—Catch a diver—Crayfish— Great delicacy—So sharks think—Foul bottom—Divers tumble into holes—Beautiful marine growth . ° . + 315-321 CHAPTER XxXI WHITE ANTS Voracious pests—Pranks by white ants—Chinese benefit—FEat sheet- fead—Bottled whisky into bulk—A. J. Gunn on the ants— Man buried while asleep—Queensland Cypress Pine eaten by ants—Northern Territory Pine resists attacks . 5 - 322-330 CHAPTER XXII ABOUT CHINESE AND OTHERS Law-abiding and industrious—Smallpox in Chinatown—Humpys burned — Arrival of Chinese — Landing-waiter goes mad— Causes trouble — Officer gets smallpox— Word his bond— Expect develop pig-tail—Chinese hospitality—Firing crackers —Chinese band — Nigger corroboree — Musical bamboo— Chinese theatre — Joss-house — Joss displeased — Mining— ‘Man along Pline Cleek fool’—Yam Yan and his yawn —Chinese Court—Export duty on gold—Fate of smuggler— Searching skeletons—Skeletons sent to China—Great tempta- tion—Duty abolished—Smuggling opium-—Cute dodge—Two pairs of trousers—Delivering letters—Gunpowder in luggage— Great opium robbery — Ride through goldfields — Watch for sampan—Permits changed—Sent back to Flowery Land— Stowaways — Given away by his nose —‘ Mr. Custom-house, Esq.’—Sinking of lighter—Perseverance by white prisoner— Chinese oaths—Magistrate loses fowls—‘ Bad debts to the credit of the Lord’—Horse-play—The biter bit—Niggers’ XVili CONTENTS love of strong drink—‘ All same water ’—Babies smoking— “Dods’—Nigger affection for employers—Cold water and flies — Custom-house Master-san—Japanese slipped up— Bitter magistrate—A particular official . : = CHAPTER XXIII PORT DARWIN Magnificent harbour—Singapore of Australia—Trans-continental Line—Great possibilities—Fortifications — Export of horses to India—Natural docks—Java and the Northern Territory— Cocoa-nuts—Pineapples finest in the world—The papya and tough meat—All tropical fruits—Red and black ants—Vege- tables—Truth about the Territory—Malarial fever no bogy— The poor ‘white elephant ’—Healthy Europeans—Fine life on tablelands—Great opening for adventurous young English- men—Inducements—How to reach Port Darwin—Advice for settlers — The B.A.T. — ‘ Billy ?— Native companions — Steamers and their skippers—B.I. boat—‘ Not a lot of coolies ’—Epitome of a British seaman—A popular skipper CHAPTER XXIV FAREWELL TO PORT DARWIN Transferred south—Craving to return—Nor’-westers — Farewell —‘ What are you crying for ?’—Mingo’s gentle hint . PAGE - 331-353 - 354-372 » 373-374 List OF ILLUSTRATIONS MAP, = ° . . ° . . Frontispiece THE AUTHOR, - . ; ° . facing p. 1 FIRST HOTEL IN PORT DARWIN, * ; ° ¥ PORT DARWIN FROM FORT HILL, 4 . : ” 9 FLYING ANTS. PORT CHARLES LIGHTHOUSE, : jh tng NATIVE CORROBOREE, PORT ESSINGTON, ‘ 3 yo MANGROVE SWAMP, ; . : ° : piesa LONG GRASS AT THE LAGOONS, : : ‘ Sis IN THE JUNGLE, . = 3 : te. AT THE OLD SETTLEMENT, PORT ESSINGTON (‘ Flash Poll’ Centre Figure), ‘ ‘ ‘ ; ieee BOYS WITH DUGONG, . : ‘ . : si hs Wess GIANT MOUND NEST OF JUNGLE FOWL, é : aig IN THE DELISSA CREEK, PORT DARWIN, 3 2 oe ee LARRAKEEYAH LUBRA, . . ; : sfigeuee WRECK OF THE ‘YOUNG AUSTRALIAN,’ ROPER RIVER, ae Wy fe) ALLIGATOR-SHOOTING, ADELAIDE RIVER, : 2 oy Eee THE AUTHOR IN BUSH COSTUME, : : : a 136 MINISTERIAL PARTY UNDER PANDANUS-TREES, Sir hEgS NATIVES PREPARED FOR A CEREMONY, “ : Paine (vie. DUCK-POND IN THE JUNGLE, . : - “ BENS Bh 7) BANYAN-TREE, . ° : . F : i ee XxXi IN AUSTRALIAN TEOPRICS COCOA-NUT PALMS, = “ - KATHERINE RIVER (I), . P : 5 ABORIGINES RECEIVING RATIONS, POWELL CREEK, . DEPOT, VICTORIA RIVER, s A : GREGORY’S (BAOBAB) TREES, VICTORIA RIVER (I), . ” 3) ” (2), s WOGITE AND BIERLY BOYS, 5 5 : : SOURCE OF THE EDITH RIVER IN THE TABLELANDS, CHINESE FISHING-STATION AT THE MOUTH OF THE DALY, DALY RIVER, NEAR OLD MISSION-STATION, . FLORA FALLS, . . : BLACK FELLOW’S GRAVE, 5 c KATHERINE RIVER (2), . : : - ADELAIDE RIVER, PINE CREEK RAILWAY, . : ADELAIDE RIVER CROSSING, PINE CREEK RAILWAY, ALLIGATOR, TWELVE FEET SIX INCHES LONG, : ROUGH ON ALLIGATORS, é i . “ LANDING, BEATRICE HILLS, ADELAIDE RIVER, : STUART'S TREE, ; 5 : : : ON THE ELIZABETH, . ° . . . BURKETT CREEK, ; ; F g COCKY AND HIS OWNER, : p : THE JETTY, SOUTHPORT, : : : LIGHTHOUSE-KEEPER’S SON AT POINT CHARLES RIDING A TURTLE A LA DE ROUGEMONT, : , PEARLING LUGGERS, . : 5 i ANT-HILL, NEAR RUM JUNGLE, ‘ m MERIDIONAL ANT-HILL, . j ’ : . PORT DARWIN HOSPITAL AND CHINESE GARDENS, NATIVES DRESSED FOR CORROBOREE (PORT DARWIN), PORT DARWIN NATIVE, . xxii ” ” ” ” . facing p. 185 188 193 EIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS NATIVE WOMAN, PORT DARWIN, . < . facing p. 350 FORT HILL AND CAMP, PORT DARWIN, - ; ss) 358 PAPYA OR PAWPAW APPLE-TREE, BEARING, ELEVEN MONTHS OLD, : ; : : ; |) eae FINEST PINEAPPLES IN THE WORLD, . : ‘ a S30E JERVOIS ROAD (LOVERS’ WALK, PORT DARWIN), . » 364 | ae : ' 7 § g<-) te pt To Lo % is - ee ae f ; ) EAs) a a Hammer & Co., Adelaide. Seer Foe THE NORTHERN TERRITORY THE name Northern Territory indicates the northern portion of the Australian continent which was annexed to South Australia by Royal Letters Patent in 1863. This vast region contains 523,620 square miles, or 335,116,800 acres, a territory in area equal to France, Germany, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, and Italy com- bined. It is bounded on the north by the Arafura Sea or Indian Ocean; on the south by the 26th parallel of south latitude; on the east by the 138th meridian of east longitude; and on the west by the 129th meridian of east longitude. With the exception of two and a half degrees, it is all in the tropics or Torrid Zone. The whole coast-line is indented with good-sized bays and estuaries, forming in many instanees grand harbours, and dotted with islands. Without including the latter, it has about two thousand miles of seaboard. The coast, as a rule, is low and flat, bounded by sandy beaches, but chiefly with mud flats and mangroves. At one time it was considered that the interior of this vast territory was a barren desert, but the discoveries of explorers have proved that a fallacy. It is ncw recog- A I IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS nised that there is an almost unlimited area of country suitable, and not to be beaten in the world, for cattle and horse breeding. Besides the great extent of country on the coast-line and rivers, upon which every description of tropical product can be grown, there are immense areas inland suitable for agricultural purposes. It is well known that the Territory is rich in all sorts of minerals. The area prospected so far is very small indeed, so there are immense possibilities in the future in this direc- tion. The wet season begins about the end of October, and lasts approximately five months. The rainfall during January and February is very heavy. The average rain- fall near the coast is sixty-five inches. The maximum temperature during the wet season is ninety-five degrees, and the minimum at night sixty-five degrees. Dry heat prevails during the south-east monsoon, but it is not extremely hot except just prior to the setting in of the rainy season, and up to the end of December, when the north-west monsoon as a rule sets in strongly. In a few words I should like to give some particulars of the very early adventurers who were the first to sight and visit the north coast of Australia. To me the subject is marvellously attractive, and is surrounded by great romance. When one thinks what the old sea-dogs of centuries ago accomplished in the miserable vessels of their day, one can only wonder and admire their pluck and grit. I can fully understand their feelings when approaching and visiting a country previously unknown to the civilised world, for in a small way it has been my 2 EARLY ADVENTURES privilege to see some of our country and the inhabitants which had never before been visited or seen by white men, at any rate not for centuries. Perchance the old voyagers had dreams of fabulous riches in the great con- tinent, which, there seems to have been a hazy idea, existed under the Southern Cross. The appearance of the natives evidently banished the idea of any such wealth existing. The black men did not make an im- pression on the adventurers. One dismissed them with the description: ‘Black, naked, and corpulent.’ Dampier, the first Englishman to visit and land on the great island—the continent which was to become such an important part of the British Empire—wrote: ‘ The inhabitants of this country are the miserablest in the world.’ Judging from his narrative, Dampier must have been unfortunate in meeting very poor specimens of the inhabitants of this new land, and probably at a time of the year when flies were exceptionally bad. This was in 1688. A shadowy claim to being the first discoverer of Terra Australia has been advanced on behalf of De Gonneville, who sailed from Honfleur in 1503. There is carto- graphic evidence that between 1512 and 1542 the north coast of Australia had been discovered. In the British Museum there is the rough copy of an old map which indicates that the north coast of Australia was discovered in 1601 by Manoel Godinho Eredia. This would point to a Portuguese discovery of Australia immediately prior to the Dutch one. In 1605 Louis Vaez de Torres touched at Cape York. Torres Straits were named after 3 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS him. Arnheim Land, which is in the Northern Territory, was discovered by the crew of a Dutch vessel named the Arnheim. The captain and some of the crew of this vessel had previously been murdered by the natives in New Guinea. In 1644 Tasman coasted all along the north and north-west coasts. Many of the names still retained in the Gulf of Carpentaria are significant of Tasman’s visit —Vanderlin Island, after Cornelius Van der Lyn; Sweers Island, after Salamon Sweers; Maria Island, after his supposed sweetheart, Marie Van Diemen; and Limmen Bight, after his ship the Lzmmen. It was in 1628 that a Dutch expedition left the Zuyder Zee with the idea of forming a settlement on the coast of New Holland. The wreck of the Batavia during the following year on Houtman’s Abrolhos ended in one of the most tragic incidents in the early history of Australia. The terrible story is most graphically told by W. J. Gordon in his book, The Captain General. Looking back to the far-off days when these brave old sea-dogs ploughed their way through unknown seas with such marvellous intrepidity, one’s imagination might easily run riot in thinking of ‘the might have beens’ had any of the pioneer adventurers had sufficient luck or foresight to have planted themselves upon the north shores of this fair continent. If they had realised for a moment the untold wealth concealed in this new land, or the fabulous riches hidden by the sea through which they sailed when near the coast, another Java might have been evolved to the definite settlement of the coloured labour problem, and probably the Union Jack 4 NEW HOLLAND would never have floated over these bounteous lands, unless, perchance, by right of conquest. If the settlement had been made by any other nation, I expect it would only have supplied another evidence of the fact that the Anglo-Saxons are the only people who can colonise successfully. Sir William Temple, who was ambassador at the Hague in the time of Charles Il, wrote to the effect that a southern continent had long since been found out, that it was as long as Java, and marked on the maps as New Holland, but to what extent the land extended south, east, or west, none knew; also that he heard it said among the Dutch that their East India Company ‘have long since forbidden, and under the greatest penal- ties, any further attempts at discovering that continent, having already more trade than they can turn to account, and fearing some more populous nation of Europe might make great establishments of trade in some of these unknown regions, which might ruin or impair what they already have in the Indies,’ As bearing upon the discovery of gold in the Northern Territory, I may mention that on some maps a part of the country is named ‘Terra Arafura,’ a name taken presum- ably from the adjoining Arafura Sea, but I am given to understand that there is an old map in the British Museum on which this territory is named ‘Terra Auri- fera, indicating that the presence of gold in those parts was known in remote times. In support of the fact that there were ancient visitations to the coast, 1 may men- tion a discovery by a man named Peter Erickson, an old 5 IN AUSTRALIAN ‘TROPICS Port Darwin resident. He once proceeded to the north-west for the purpose of pearling, and landed at Cape Bougainville (a most notorious place for bad niggers) to search for water. Erickson, who was for- tunate enough to find a stream of fresh water, also dis- covered an ancient cannon. The idea is that it was mounted here for the protection of ships while they were watering. Erickson gave the cannon away for a compass to a fellow-countryman, who took it to Norway or Sweden. It was a pity that Erickson did not bring the gun back with him instead of parting with it. If he had looked for some indication of when and where it was made, it would have been some guide, but he did not even do that. That the gun was very ancient there can be no question. When a boy I read a book called Oliver Eltis, in which mention is made of a sunken Spanish galleon, from which the hero of the story procured great wealth. While on my voyages down the coast I had this novel in my mind, and I did a lot of looking for treasure, until I realised that the scavengers of the seas, the Malays, had been centuries in advance of me. In other chapters my readers will find what the English have done on the north coast during the last century. It is a long way from the ‘Dingo,’ the wild dog of Australia, and one of the greatest pests with which the settlers have to contend in the ‘out-back’ of this sreat land, and the adventurers of centuries ago. It must be understood that the dingo is the only animal 6 ‘NIMUVG LYOd NI TaLOH LSula *aYydS}aogy jnvg THE DINGO in Australia which does not possess a pouch. Many authorities have advanced the idea that the animal has descended from the chow dog, or something akin to it. When it is remembered that communication took place between the Chinese and Portuguese so many centuries ago, it might reasonably be surmised that the animal from which the dingo has sprung was landed on the north coast by some of the old navigators. Dampier in his diary says: ‘We saw no sort of animal, nor any tracks of beasts but once, and that seemed to be a beast as big as a great mastiff-dog. He may have struck a number of kangaroo tracks. IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS CHART Butt WHY I WENT TO PORT DARWIN IT was in June 1882 I sailed from Port Adelaide for Port Darwin, and in a few words I would like to explain why I went there. The Minister controlling the Northern Territory (the late Hon. J. L. Parsons) had paid a visit to our northern dependency, and as a result it was decided that some radical changes in the administration should be initiated, the idea at the time being to bring the Northern Territory into line with South Australia proper, as far as the tariff was concerned. After being a free port for some years Port Darwin had had a special tariff since 1880. Such being the case, the necessity for sending an officer experienced in the tariff arose. I was a landing waiter at Port Adelaide at the time, and being considered suitable, was requested to volunteer, which I did, and in due course was appointed sub-collector. I sailed from Port Adelaide in the s.s. Catterthun, then a new boat. This steamer, I might mention, was some years afterwards, when on a voyage to China vzd@ Port Darwin, totally wrecked just after leaving Sydney, with great loss of life. As usual we called in at Sydney, the city with the beautiful harbour, for cargo and passengers, 8 NIMUVA LAOd * ‘THH LYOH Wows ay IS/IOT [NYT ot de alle te ee ee & pe SE) : : V/ aed THE BARRIER PASSAGE When we left we were full up with general cargo, with forty horses and twenty-five bulls on deck. The pas- sengers consisted of fifty-six Europeans, and many Chinese homeward bound. We touched at several Queensland ports and shipped more Chinese, so when we finally cleared from Thursday Island, the last port of call, we had some four hundred Celestials on board. In spite of our crowded condition the voyage was most enjoyable, especially the run from Brisbane to Thursday Island through the Barrier Passage, the waters of which are sheltered by the famous reef for a distance of some one thousand miles. The gradual approach of the tropics was full of interest. The sea a sparkling sapphire, and the sky a cloudless indigo, were charged with wonder- ful glories. We passed through numerous islets, many of which were rarely, if ever, visited, while few were settled. Then came the romantic scenery of the Whit- sunday Passage, with its emerald green foliage right down to the water’s edge. This is admittedly one of the most beautiful places in the world. We navigated the narrow waters between Albany Island and Somerset on the mainland, the residences at the latter place being enveloped in luxuriant tropical growth, and one felt he would like to be a lotus-eater and dwell there for ever. Although I passed up and down the Barrier on several subsequent occasions perfect weather invariably prevailed, but there are times when the conditions are just the opposite. At certain seasons of the year many of the islands in the passage are frequented by vast numbers 9 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS of black and white pigeons, known as Torres Straits pigeons. Steamers are frequently stopped off one of those islands to give the passengers a chance of making a bag. I was one of a party on one occasion, and we shot great numbers of the birds. The coast of Queensland is rich in historical events and tragedies, and with the outlying reefs, memorable as the scene of many wrecks. The passage at one time was a most dangerous piece of navigation, but now, owing to the fact that it is so perfectly lighted and buoyed, the risk is reduced almost to a minimum. Several of us were rather fond of mixing with the Chinese passengers, but the skipper put a stop to this when one day he found us playing fan-tan with the Asiatics, and getting the best of it. Several Chinese died during the voyage, and, as usual, the friends of the deceased made arrangements with the officers to have the bodies headed up in pickle or simply embalmed and stowed away in solid wooden coffins in the coal-bunkers, so as to enable the bones to be deposited in the Flowery Land—the real ambition of all Celestials. In due time we arrived off Cape Don, the entrance to Van Dieman’s Gulf, a distance of one hundred miles from Port Darwin. It was evening, and being aware that we should have to anchor during the night, as it would be unsafe to navigate Clarence Straits, some sixty miles further on, the skipper, in answer to a question, said he would anchor at 2.30 A.M. Shortly before that time arrived, however, the passengers received a great surprise, for there was a tremendous er-r-r-r-r, and the screw IO PORT DARWIN stopped. We were on the top of the reef all right, the steamer having overrun her distance a little. Fortunately there was no wind, and beyond a little ocean swell, no sea. The range was just sufficient to give us a reminder, by way of a bump, which made things rattle, that we were not afloat. There was no excitement. Just before noon we came off apparently uninjured, but when the steamer was subsequently docked at Hong-kong it was found necessary to put in several new plates. It was dark on Sunday evening when we dropped our anchor in Port Darwin, the name of the town being Palmerston. And so commenced for me a residence of fourteen years in the tropics. Ever since I have ‘’eard the East a-callin’,’ During my long residence I had many exciting and dangerous’ voyages on the coast in carrying out my duties as sub-collector, which, with other experiences, I purpose relating in as simple a manner as possible. The Port Darwin Custom-house was a large iron shed on the beach near the landing-stage, known as Gulnare Jetty. The floor, which stood some three feet off the ground, was of wood; or rather what the white ants had left of it was (of white ants more anon!), so it was no unusual occurrence for a foot to go through, or the legs of your chair to sink out of sight, and, as can be imagined, strong language was used at times when such accidents happened. I never shall forget the impression the place made on me when sitting at work between the open doors of the Custom-house on some of the still, steaming mornings Il IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS before the sea-breeze set in. From the wide-open door I could see the glassy sea fringed by dark mangroves, and backed by forest and jungle. A steamy, heavy smell arose from the mud and sand left by the receding tide. Then there were the crowing of cocks and the squealing of pigs emanating from the mass of bark or erass humpys, or huts, built on the side of Stokes’ Hill, a short distance away, and occupied by Chinese and Malays, the owners of the porcine grunters and poultry in question. The Asiatics and the animals all lived together, for sanitation was not a strong feature in Darwin in those days. Whenever I hear a clarion cock crow, in a flash I imagine myself in the cane chair pant- ing and wet through with perspiration; and the sea, the smell, the mangroves, and Stokes’ Hill come back to me all over again. The first day ashore I had an interview with a scorpion and a centipede, and at dinner I discerned four marsh flies in my soup. It was good soup, too, This was only a sample of the little pleasantries one has to put up with in the tropics, and it is surprising how quickly one gets accustomed to them. 12 \\ ses “tSHOH-LHOIT SHINVHOD INtOd ‘SINV DNIATA ASO MAKORSKIL GUS) INTL WSsUINOSNelMal SHOOTING BUFFALO two days fully forty miles. It was hard work having to carry rifle, ammunition, and revolver. The revolver did not seem much to carry at the start, but when the excitement was over I thought my left hip was broken, the weight of the shooting-iron having been there all the time. It must be remembered that the niggers on the coast were not to be trusted, so that it behoved us to be well armed. We had some of the Port Essington boys with us—all in a state of nature, clothes on the coast being an unknown quantity—otherwise we might have had considerable difficulty in making our way back. At any rate, I should have been properly bushed. A native in a strange country does not so much look ahead as he does over either shoulder, for, as a rule, if you are to get a spear, it is from behind. A small island, Copeland, close to where we were anchored, was alive with quail, but unfortunately I had no cartridges. Having had our turn at buffalo, we sailed for Port Essington, where we found three more proas, the Lambere Kaledeopa, Winda, master; Todjeeng Kanaya, Ardang, master; Bording Manonkokie, Lamoeda, master, all from Dylompo. Having visited the proas we went on shore to the smoke-houses. Several of the niggers were drunk, and had just finished a fight, one having had his head split open. The liquor the Malays carried was awful stuff. At different times, when out of grog, I tried it under all sorts of disguises, but it was no go. From my experience niggers can carry a fair amount of good liquor, but this stuff seemed to send them mad. I 35 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS invariably gave my boys a nip or two a day when hunting, although, of course, it was against the law. I remember two of the Port Essington boys calling at my quarters at Port Darwin. I offered one of them a drink, saying, ‘Moyout, you must not tell Mr. Foelsche, by way of a joke. He replied, ‘Do you think me a fool, captain?’ The other one, on being invited to imbibe, said, ‘No, thanks, Mr. Searcy, I don’t drink.’ These boys spoke good English, Macassar, and, of course, their own language. That is a good indication of their intelligence. I might mention that all the coast niggers to the eastward, from their long association with the Malays, spoke Macassar, therefore I always took Port Essington boys with me on my subsequent trips, so as to make friends with the Myalls—the wild natives. It appeared to me from my short experience of the aborigines of the north coast, and my first impressions were confirmed by future dealings with them, that they were far and away superior, both in physique and in- telligence, to the natives down south. It must be re- membered that the food-supply available for the niggers on the north coast was unlimited. All the rivers and swamps were teeming with game and fish, also alligators, of which the blacks are very fond. In the swamps and jungles edible roots are always obtainable, while on the coast, shellfish, dugong, and turtle abound. This, taken in conjunction with their long association with the Malays, may be the explanation of the superior type of the aborigines of the north coast of Australia, In Darwin we had a couple of instances of marvellous 36 NORTH COAST NATIVES intelligence displayed by two natives, such quickening of the faculties no doubt in a measure being due to the fact that they were minus certain senses, both being afflicted. The first was known as ‘Blind Solomon, an old man who, in his childhood, lost his eyesight through smallpox, it is supposed. The marks on his face showed that at one time he had been a victim of that dread disease, which was introduced by the Malays, and which at times swept right across the continent. Solomon was blind before ever white men settled on the north coast, consequently he had never had a chance of seeing the lay of the streets in the town. Yet he was employed in delivering parcels and messages, which he could be absolutely relied upon to do, He simply would feel his way about with his wommera or throwing-stick. He could always recognise people by their footsteps, and once having heard a voice always remembered it. Old Sol used to get a lot of money from people passing through Darwin. A coin would be thrown on the ground, and he would have to find it. As he drew near, the cry would be ‘Cold, Solomon,’ and when far away, ‘Warm.’ I think the old man saw through the joke, for when he had amused the people for some time, he would say, ‘Oh, you too muchee gammon.’ He always got the money. His great delight was to stand outside one of the banks, and listen to the counting of coin. The bank people at these times got very mad, for he would laugh and yell.‘O Mr. The other nigger was known as Dummy. He was , my word too muchee money!’ deaf and dumb, and had always been so. He was em- 37 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS ployed in a store, and could do his work with the best of the men engaged. Dummy was also utilised for delivering parcels and messages. The boss workman, a Chinaman, was always the man who gave him instruc- tions as to where and to whom he should go, by indi- cating some peculiarity in the person. He often used to come to me at the Custom-house, but I never discovered my particular idiosyncrasy. To see the sign language used by the other natives when conversing with Dummy was vastly entertaining. Often the poor chap would burst out laughing, as if some funny story were being related, which I dare say was the case, at the expense of some European, for the nigger is very observant. The boys at Port Essington were remarkably polite when out hunting, when possible, holding back the branches of the trees and undergrowth and grass. Often, when I wanted a drink of water, one of them would get a leaf from some adjacent bush, twist it in a spiral shape, fill it with water, and bring it to me. During our stay at Port Essington we had another turn at the buffalo. We crossed the harbour at day- break, passing over the coral reefs, on which trepang could be plainly seen, and where a number of Malays were walking about picking up the slugs with their short spears. We had no luck the earlier part of the day. During a trudge of some twelve miles we frequently saw fresh pads and tracks, but only heard two beasts. However, we could not stay with them, or keep the dogs going, on 38 COLD SQUALLS account of the grass which towered over our heads. Fresh pads and tracks, although frequently seen, were no sure sign that the animals were numerous, for one beast wandering about, as is the habit of the buffalo, can give a lot of indications in that way. There had been a heavy dew during the night, so, as can be understood, it was not long before we were wet through: not that there was much to wet. After a spell, at midday, we had better luck, knocking over a cow and calf. It is doubtful if we should have secured the former if the calf had not been shot. While at work on the carcass of the cow a heavy rain squall from the south-east came up. So we soon felt sort of frozen. A large fire was quickly blazing away, slices of liver were placed on the coals, and we managed to make ourselves comfortable inside and out. All we had had in the way of tucker was a handful of cold rice. When near the sea I have many times been caught by fierce, driving, freezing squalls; on these occasions I used to sit in the salt water up to my neck to keep warm. During the heaviest of rains, if there are paper bark trees about, a fire can always be made. The bark can be peeled off in thin flakes, as its name suggests. The inside is perfectly dry, and makes splendid kindling. Having some of the crew, besides the niggers, with us, the carcasses were soon cut up for transport. I carried the tongue, brains, and the calf’s head, and so started for the cutter, some six miles away, a lively tramp through mud, water, and the long wet grass. It was raining at the time. 39 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS Once on board, a nip, dry clothes, and then an attack on a big dish of fried brains (I can recommend fried buffalo brains), after which the pipe made us feel at peace with the world. Although our luck had been a bit out, we had had good fun, and I saw a great deal of the country. In open country, or in the dry season, we should have had a far bigger bag, for Robinson was a splendid shot; but what could be expected when sound only was our guide? Of course, having guests, Robinson wore a certain quantity of clothing, but nary boots or socks. That made no difference, however, for over the sticks and stones, through the grass and undergrowth, he went without the least inconvenience. I dare say there are comparatively few people who are aware that we have such big game as buffalo on the north coast. Of course, they are not indigenous to the country, but are the offspring of those left by the soldiers when the old settlements were abandoned. Only a few beasts were left, but it is simply marvellous how they have increased. Shooting buffalo for their hides was only carried on in a very small way during the first few years I was in Port Darwin, but it suddenly became a regular industry. The records of the Custom- house afford proof of that, for during a little over ten years nearly fifty thousand hides were exported. The buffalo on the mainland spread wonderfully. As the herds multiplied, the old bulls were driven out and wan- dered great distances. I saw their tracks on the Roper; 40 BUFFALO I heard of them on the M‘Arthur; and some of the backblockers informed me they had been seen in Queens- land. Just before I left Darwin the keeper at Port Charles Lighthouse shot an old bull which turned up here one night, fancying, I suppose, he had at last reached a haven of rest. Only on one occasion did we have a buffalo turn on us, but before he came too close a bullet reminded him of an engagement elsewhere. The hunters, and the niggers with them, have at times experienced some nasty falls with the buffaloes, and in several instances they have been gored. Some miraculous escapes have occurred. When the hunters have been down, and the beasts have been trying to get at them with their horns, they have crept out, and catching hold of the horns, have vaulted over the backs of the animals and escaped. The possi- bility of this can be realised when one understands the size of the horns. I have a pair just six feet across, and I have seen a pair measure nine feet. I was never lucky enough to have a turn at hunting on horseback, which became the fashion when shooting developed into an industry. Some of the animals having such tremendous horns, it is marvellous how they manage to get through the bush and grass. However, when running, they poke their noses straight out, which has the effect of laying the horns well down the back, where they offer least impediment. The buffalo, though bulky beasts, are most active on their pins. I know they are, through having been in front of them, but on such occasions I lost no time in Al IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS getting to the rear. When the animals are feeding, the horns have a wicked look. One of the shooters, Paddy Cahill, had a splendidly trained horse which he used in his hunting; in fact, the equine pretty well did the work. As soon as a mob of buffaloes were sighted, the horse, as a matter of course, galloped alongside while his master attended to his par- ticular part of the game. Forty-five in one day is, I think, sufficient proof that rider and horse understood the business thoroughly. When the shooting for the day was finished, the horse of its own accord would proceed to each carcass and stand there until the skinning opera- tions were finished. The master of the craft trading between the buffalo-shooters and Darwin went with the hunters one day to have a look at the fun. So surprised was he at the performance of the horse, that he said, ‘Say, Paddy, why don’t you give the blanky horse a knife and let him skin the blanky beasts?’ Another accomplishment of the horse was the manner in which he would, at a word from his master, chase objectionable niggers out of the camp. You may be sure the niggers respected that animal. What would be thought of feeding horses on geese eggs? Such was the case, however, when a party of buffalo-hunters were stuck up on the Adelaide during the wet season. The niggers used to bring in canoe loads of the eggs, which were broken into buckets and supplied to the horses. Before the advent of the horse for hunting, I have known a buffalo-shooter on foot, when he struck a good 42 iad H. W. Christie. LN DEE a WINGER: wry re | BUFFALO mob, run alongside of the beasts and bowl over seven before they got away. Some slight effort, I believe, was made to tame and utilise the animals, but no good ever came of it. At Port Essington they had about a dozen fairly tame ones, which were herded during the day by an old lubra, and yarded at night. You may be sure a strong yard was needed, for if a buffalo makes up its mind to shift, some- thing has to go. I believe these beasts eventually wan- dered away. Some years before, a strong yard was erected, and a lot of buffalo were run in. It appeared that no provision was made to give the animals a drink, so it was determined to drive them to water. The yard was opened, and that was the last ever seen of these beasts. The driving experiment was a miserable failure, confidence misplaced. A yarn used to be told—I cannot vouch for the truth of the statement, but I will give it as I have heard it. A man managed to get a team of buffalo to Southport, and in due time they were hitched toadray. A start was made, and that was the last ever seen of the man, buffalo, or dray. Having taken on board a small canoe I had procured from one of the proas to send south, also many dozens of rock oysters, for which Port Essington is famous, we sailed for home, reaching there in three days. So ended my first trip at proa-hunting. 43 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS GQ HiAP TE Rib Vv THE SECOND VOYAGE IN THE ‘FLYING CLOUD’ By the time the nor-west monsoon might be expected the Malay proas had worked their way down from Macassar as far as Kissa, an island near Timor, and about five hundred miles from our coast. There they filled up with water, cocoa-nuts, and material necessary for the erection of the smoke-houses used in the curing of the sea-slug. In fact, this was the last port of call. As these extraordinary vessels are only good before the wind, it was necessary that the Malays should be certain that the monsoon had set in properly before making a start. The wind, however, has been known to fail them during the voyage, and terrible hardships have been undergone before the nor’-wester made again. To give an idea of the awful calamities which some- times befall those who man the proas, I cannot do better than quote from Frank Bullen’s The Cruzse of the Chacalot. ‘One morning, a week after we had taken our departure from the Seychelles, the officer at the main crow’s nest reported a vessel of some sort about five miles windward, Something strange in her appearance made the skipper haul up to intercept her. As we drew nearer we made her out to be a Malay “ prahu”’; but, by the 44 a eed MALAY PROAS look of her, she was deserted. The big three-cornered sail that had been set hung in tattered festoons from the long slender yard, which, without any gear to steady it, swung heavily to and fro as the vessel rolled to the long sweil. ‘We drew closer and closer, but no sign of life was visible on board, so that the captain ordered a boat to go and investigate. In two minutes we were speeding away towards her, and, making a sweep round her stern, prepared to board her. But we were met by a stench so awful that Mr. Count would not proceed, and at once returned to the ship. The boat was quickly hoisted again, and the ship manceuvred to pass close to wind- ward of the derelict. Then, from our mast-head, a horrible sight became visible. Lying about the weather- beaten deck, in various postures, were thirteen corpses all far advanced in decay, which horrible fact fully ac- counted for the intolerable stench that had driven us away. It is, perhaps, hardly necessary to say that we promptly hauled our wind, and placed a good distance between us and that awful load of death as soon as possible. Poor wretches! What terrible calamity had befallen them we could not guess; whatever it was, it had been complete; nor would any sane man falling across them run the risk of closer examination into details than we had done. It was a great pity that we were not able to sink the prahu with her ghastly cargo, and so free the air from that poisonous fcetor that was a deadly danger to any vessel getting under her lee.’ As a rule, proas sighted Melville Island first, and then worked their way down the coast to the eastward, some 45 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS proceeding as far as the Gulf of Carpentaria. Apparently the Malays never succeeded in making friends with the natives on the island. That the Malays at some time had started work on the north side of the island was evident, for remains of old fireplaces and smoke-houses have been found there. Major Campbell, who was Com- mandant at Fort Dundas in 1826, conjectured that the reason why the blacks were so suspicious of strangers was that the island had been previously visited by Malay slavers, who had carried away some of the aborigines as slaves. The Malay fishermen were forbidden by their owners to go near Melville Island (which they called Amba, the Malay word for slave), alleging that it was infested by pirates. On one occasion Major Campbell noticed a Malay boy with the blacks. At such times as the buffalo-shooters on the island managed to come to friendly terms with the niggers, it was noticed that although their language was totally different from any on the mainland, they used the same words for ‘white man’ — ‘monkey jarra, which is a Macassar expression. No doubt many proas have been wrecked there and the crews massacred by the wild inhabitants. To our own know- ledge, two proas were cast away there during one season. The crew of the first, the Evang Polia, was attacked, and but for the plucky action of the master, a determined old man, named Oesing, things would have been serious, but he kept the niggers at bay with an old carbine while four canoes were launched and fitted out. —Thecrew succeeded in reaching the revenue station after undergoing terrible hardships. A similar reception met the crew of the other 46 WRECKED PROAS proa, Lasalasaya, but they only succeeded in getting two canoes afloat, in which twenty-seven men were packed. When they reached the station they were starving, During the voyage they passed a dead Malay in the sea, and as there was a proa missing, this pointed to the fact that she must have foundered. On another occasion the crew of a wrecked proa had to defend themselves for several days. They eventually got away, after the loss of one Malay and two black boys from the mainland, who had been to Macassar with them. Two or three others were wounded. During our time many proas have been known to have been wrecked in the Gulf of Carpentaria with loss of life, the survivors having worked their way along the coast to the camping-place of some comrade. So it will be seen that the Malays, like others who ‘go down to the sea in ships,’ suffer great hardships. Con- sidering their primitive vessels and appliances, it is mar- vellous they do not experience even greater privations. We generally expected the proas down about Christ- mas, and so as to be in time to meet them, I left Port Darwin in the Flying Cloud at the end of November 1883, accompanied by another officer, Mr. H. Pinder. After six days’ battling with head-winds and strong tides, we arrived at Port Essington. During the voyage we sighted several waterspouts. When off Cape Don, just at dusk one evening, a steamer coming from Port Darwin hove in sight, and, knowing that many of our friends were on board bound south for a spell, as she passed us we saluted her by firing our carbines and sending up a rocket, a most improper thing to do. The steamer 47 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS answered with a flash-light. All would have been well if we had been satisfied with our first display, but we continued our rocket-firing, which was idiotic. The master of the steamer thought we were in difficulties, as we were close in to the mainland shore, so he hove to. Our old man then saw what a howling mess we had made of things, so used certain language which he was not in the habit of doing. Feeling very small, there was nothing for it but to stand out and show that all was well. This we did, passing astern of the steamer. The delay caused the vessel to lose a night at Thursday Island. When I met the master of the steamer, the Zannadice, Captain S. G. Green, afterwards, he expressed several strong and sanguinary opinions, but wound up by saying, ‘I would not have cared a d if you had come on board and had a drink.’ When there was no wind and the tide had turned against us, the kedge, if it were possible, was dropped to prevent the cutter being driven back. On one occasion we anchored in twenty-nine fathoms. On another occasion, to save being driven back, we dropped the kedge in nineteen fathoms off Cape Don, where the tide rushes at a terrific rate, and if the wind should be against the tide, a fearful rip is the result. The old man stood at the helm for six hours to prevent her breaking her sheer, thus obviating a sudden strain on the line with the chance of parting it. At this spot the bottom is very foul, as we found, for our anchor caught in some rocks. We carried away the winch trying to heave it up, so had finally to cut the anchor line. Having had a day’s spell ashore, we were under way 48 Pe ee TREPANG BAY again, Robinson having joined us. Our idea was to pay a visit to the local trepang camp at Trepang Bay. When round Vashon Head and running into the bay, everybody intently gazing shorewards to pick up the camp, the serang, who was in the rigging, happened to glance down and yelled out ‘ Batu, Batu,’ meaning rocks, rocks. The old man rushed to the side, but it was too late, for up we went on to a reef witha rattle. Luckily the breeze was not strong, and there was very little sea. As we could not kedge her off, a large portion of her stores were landed in case of accident. Our grounding necessitated a four-mile walk through sand to the camp. The heat was terrific and the flies beyond description. A large number of natives were camped with the tre- pangers, but, on catching sight of us, they disappeared into the bush like magic. After some trouble the niggers were persuaded to return, and a dole of tobacco was served out to them. I always carried tobacco to assist in establishing friendly relations with the blacks. It was not far from here that sometime afterwards the beautiful and world-wide known yacht, the Red Gauntlet, was wrecked. The sailing-master, who had been navigat- ing officer on board a big ocean liner, did not seem to think much of taking bearings or running on his dead reckoning. He was bound from Malay Bay to Darwin, and, although having the coast abeam all the time, fixed his position by shooting the stars. He swore the coast was three miles out. At any rate the yacht found it. An Imperial vessel had to do some surveying work there sometime afterwards, and found that the coast had. re- D 49 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS turned to its original position as shown on the chart. When the sailing-master met the owner (the late Mr. C. G. Millar) for the first time after the wreck, he was saluted by ‘Look here, too much science has lost me my yacht.’ The wreck soon disappeared. Everything of value went to Macassar in the proas. The Malays were excellent scavengers. After our terribly hot walk it was a treat to get on board again and discuss cold beer. Our old man, who was a staunch teetotaller, was invited to join us, so that he could take the fact of his vessel being ashore more philosophically. With strong words he informed us that the chance of the Flyzng Cloud being lost would not drive him to drink. At high-water that evening we came off, and the stores were reshipped. The cutter having to take stores to some Chinese timber cutters at Bowen Straits, we decided to leave her outside the Heads, and in the dinghy proceeded to Robinson’s camp, at Vittoria, a distance of twenty miles. In the boat were Robinson, Pinder, myself, and three niggers. All went well at first, for we had a nice little fair breeze, then the wind chopped right round to the south-east, slap in our teeth, and it blew savagely and raised a nasty sea. There was nothing for it but to lay our ears back and pull, and a nice doing we had. To make things more cheerful we found that one of our oars was badly sprung. So we had to use it tenderly. At last we managed to make Point Smith, the eastern side of the entrance to the port, and landed for a well-deserved rest, and with upwards of fifteen miles yet to pull, To our great disgust we found that the tin 50 COCKROACHES AND RATS of meat we had with us was not edible. So it was a case of drinking water and looking happy. At ten o'clock at night we reached Robinson’s camp, fairly famished ; but Robinson’s eggs, bacon, and bottled beer also looked famished by the time we felt ourselves again. The entry in my diary for the following day was: ‘ December 1oth—Lay back and took it out in sleep.’ Pinder and I decided that, until absolutely necessary, we would camp ashore, so made ourselves as comfort- able as possible in a small open shed on the beach. The Flying Cloud was a capital sea-boat, but as a residence for a lengthened period she had drawbacks, for she was chock-a-block with cockroaches and rats. Many means were tried to get rid of the pests, even to pumping the old C/owd full of water, but the vermin were soon as bad as ever. You are aware, no doubt, that the tropical cockroaches grow to a great size, and are full of business. An immense fellow sailed into my room at our quarters one night, and on examining it, I found a great number of tick fastened upon the stomach portion of its body. You may have heard that these insects have a great predilection for finger- and toe-nails. When in the Cloud asleep I had my toe-nails nibbled right down to the quick. The rats on board were beastly familiar. They often made one’s body the means of reaching the deck as quickly as possible. I woke up one night and found a great brute seated on my face. The old skipper was death on cockroaches by means of a round piece of leather on the end of a pliant stick. When he was in his little cabin you could hear the 51 IN AUSTRALIAN TROPICS flop as regular as clockwork. He flopped to some purpose, for he became a dead shot. I have mentioned that Port Essington was once a military settlement, and that the ruins of the buildings erected during that time were still standing. Neither ‘ivy clad’ nor ‘crumbling with decay’ of ages, the ruins looked more as if dismantled by the hands of men than by Father Time, and I believe such was the case. The masonry was of a very substantial character; the maga- zine was still perfect, as also the brick kiln and stone ends of the men’s quarters. A tremendous lot of work had been done by the soldiers in the olden days. Many of the posts of the fences were still standing, and the timber in the old jetty was as sound as ever.