INSTRUCTIONS
FOR THE RAISING OF
PHEASANTS

ISSUED BY
STATE OF VERMONT
DEPARTMENT OF FISH AND GAME
H. P. SHELDON
COMMISSIONER

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CAPITAL CITY PRESS, MONTPELIER, VT.

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REMEMBER, SPORTSMEN

The Farmer is Your Best

FRIEND

PUT UP HIS BARS AND CLOSE HIS GATES.

CRAWL THRU, OVER OR UNDER? UG
FENCES—WITHOUT BREAKING THEM DOWN.

GO AROUND HIS NEWLY PLANTED FIELDS.
‘This is a square deal to him, and it is your patsomer-
duty to spare crops.

ASK PERMISSION TO HUNT ON HIS POSTED
LAND—He will surely meet you half way.

DON’T INJURE OR DISTURB HIS CHICKENS
OR CATTLE, OR LET YOUR DOG WORRY THEM.

PUT OUT YOUR CAMP OR LUNCH FIRE EEA
FORE LEAVING, AND THUS PROTECT HIS
PROPERTY AND YOUR. 7HUNTING GROUND.

REMEMBER THAT WITHOUT HIS GOOD
WILL—THERE CAN BE NO SPORT AFIELD.
FISH AND GAME DEPARTMENT
of

LIBRA RESS:
RECEIVED

MAR? 1922

RPOOCUMENTS i. SION

TO THE
SPORTSMAN
AND

FARMER

Bees

HE time has arrived to assist our native
upland game birds by introduction of a
new species in Vermont. Bad breeding
seasons, disease, and a constant increase
the number of bird hunters—these

are three things which combine to make the natural

propagation of grouse far more uncertain than it was
twenty years ago. The artificial propagation of our
own ruffed grouse is held to be an impossibility, and
the only solution to the problem now before Vermont
sportsmen lies in the introduction of a hardy strain of
pheasants. By providing a supply of these birds longer
periods of protection may be given the ruffed grouse
without subtracting from the total quantity of bird
shooting now enjoyed by the sportsmen, and a new
and valuable species will also be added to our list of
upland game birds.

The greatest difficulties will be encountered during
the period of introduction. Methods of hatching and
feeding will need to be studied, and ways found to pro-

tect the pheasant from natural enemies and from un-
scrupulous poachers, but it is hoped that the sports-
men will unite in their efforts to assist this Department
until the new bird is thoroughly established and able
to adapt itself to our natural conditions. Success
will not come suddenly and completely, but slowly and
surely, and as.a result of hard work and cheerful co-
operation among all those who are interested in the con-
tinuation of our wild life resources.

Five facts should be kept in mind:

(1) Pheasant propagation under artificial condi-
tions presents no great difficulties.

(2) The pheasant is not injurious to farm crops;
rather the bird has a direct beneficial influence in de-
stroying harmful insects.

(3) The sex markings of the pheasant are so dis-
tinctive that the hens can be protected during open
seasons and only male birds shot.

(4) Clubs, individuals or communities which assist
in the propagation of these birds will receive the full
benefit of their own work, as the pheasant has a ten-
dency to remain in the locality where it is liberated.

(5) The success of the pheasant enterprise depends
entirely upon the effectiveness of local protection and
interest.

With every hope that the coming years may see the
pheasant as much a part of our rural scenery as the
ruffed grouse now is, this pamphlet, the first of its kind
published in Vermont, is sent out to those who wish to
cooperate in this important work.

H. P. SHELDON,

Commissioner.

INSTRUCTIONS

WGN applicant having received notice that
i] he is to have a shipment of pheasant
Vez! eges should proceed as follows:

When eggs are received, they should
be put in a cool place of even tempera-
ture. This condition can usually be found in a cellar.
Place eggs in a dish or tray filled with sawdust, dry
sand or oats, turning them twice daily (morning and
evening) until they are set. It is best to set eggs as
soon as possible after receiving them.

If possible, it is best to provide a coop as described
in the pamphlet issued by this department, but in case
this is not convenient, a small box or coop such as a
farmer uses for the rearing of chickens will do. The
coop should have no bottom and should be placed on
the ground. It is best to place coop out-of-doors
somewhere in the shade of a tree or hedge where the
hen will not be disturbed by other fowl and where it
is as quiet as possible. —

Provide a setting box, about 16x16 x0) 0mm
is just a form having no bottom. Fill box one-third
full of moist earth. Hollow this slightly by pounding.
Next, place fairly coarse straw within the frame, shap-
ing slightly and lining with soft hay or grass, but re-
member that the eggs must lie practically on the ground.
The nest should have a very moderate incline toward
the center. When eggs are found piled on top of one
another when the hen is taken off it usually means that
the nest is too deep. A nest nearly flat makes it easier
for the embryo chick to break away from the shell.
Eggs in any type of nest should be sprinkled with
tepid waterin very dry weather. A little Persian Insect
Powder applied to the lining of nest will help to keep
lice and mites away. Only Persian” Powaew
(Pyrethrum), which is procurable at any drug store,
should be used, as powder svete carbolic is very
dangerous.

If possible, secure a hen that is gentle and of light
weight. Place the hen on some dummy eggs for a day
or two and when satisfied that she will set steadily,
place fifteen to eighteen eggs under her. Before setting —
a hen on pheasant eggs, she should be dusted with a
reliable insect powder to destroy vermin. ‘This should
be repeated three times during incubation, but never

after eighteenth day as powder will choke and kill the
little birds.

Setting hens should be fed hard corn and should have
plenty of water. Oyster shells and grit must be sup-
plied as well as dry earth for a dust bath. The hen
should be allowed to leave the nest for about twenty
minutes each day. During this time any broken eggs
should be removed and all soiled eggs cleansed with a
warm, damp cloth.

It is best not to feed a setting hen from the time the
eggs begin to pip until she is placed in the rearing field.
Do not remove shell as the chicks come out, as these
sharp edges keep the hen from setting too heavily on
the newly hatched chicks. It is best to have full con-
fidence in the hen and let her alone for twenty-four
hours after pipping starts.

The chicks should be allowed to remain under the
hen for twenty-four hours, then taken with the hen to
a coop in a field near the house. ‘The orchard makes a
very good place for rearing young pheasants. The
same coop used for hatching may be used here. Place
coop on high, warm ground that is well drained, as
dampness and cold are very fatal to young game birds
these first few days. Three boards, one foot high,
should be placed in front of coop so as to form a pen,

using front of coop for one end of pen. Remove any
long grass blades or weeds within coop and pen. Be
sure there are no small holes through which the chicks
can escape. It is necessary to keep them from wan-
dering away from the hen before they have learned her
call, which takes from two to four days.

On the fourth day, remove the boards from front of
coop, still keeping the hen in coop. From this time
on, and as long as the hen is confined, the coop must be
moved to fresh ground each day. It is absolutely
necessary that young pheasants have fresh, clean
ground. After tenth day, release the hen, allowing her
to range at large with her birds that they may be able
to catch the many insects which it is necessary for them
to have. The hen will usually return to the coop each
night, but if she does not, don’t worry, as she is sure to
have found a better place close by. A shallow pan of
water with pebbles in it should be kept in the shade near
coop... IN NO. CASE TRY TO CONFINE ae
YOUNG BIRDS AFTER THE FOURTH DAY, AS
THEY WILL SURELY DIE IF THIS 15:DOME:

It will not hurt the young birds if they get some.
dew in early morning. When two weeks old they are
able to stand any amount of wet weather if not exposed ~
to the full force of a hard shower and if they have a

dry coop as a shelter. They are hardy, and when five
weeks old are fully feathered and able to take care of
themselves. :

Young birds should be fed as soon as they are re-
moved from the nest. Only a small quantity of food
should be given—never more than the birds will eat
up clean. Any food left on the ground is harmful to
young birds. Itis best to place some of the food within
reach of hen as it helps her to teach the chicks to come
to her call. She also will clean up food left by her
brood. DO NOT OVER-FEED. This is important.

The first week the little chicks should be fed four
times a day. ‘The food should consist of hard-boiled
eggs chopped fine and mixed with an equal amount of
slightly moistened stale bread or cracker so as to form
a crumbly mash. One boiled egg will provide four
meals for fifteen chicks the first week. It is well to
mix in a little green food such as lettuce, watercress or
tender clover, chopped fine—also a little fine grit once
a day.

The second week commercial chick grain may be
added to ratio. Reduce to three meals a day. ‘These
can be given as follows: Morning meal: chopped boiled
eggs mixed with an equal amount of slightly moistened
bread or cracker crumbs to the consistency of a dry

crumbly mash. Noon meal: chick’ grain moistened
with water. Evening meal: hard-boiled egg mixed
with moistened bread or cracker, and one or two
handfuls of chick grain. If crackers are used be sure
they contain no salt.

When birds are two weeks of age the egg food may be
gradually discontinued until at the age of four weeks the
food may consist entirely of the chick grain. Theyoung
birds are very fond of curd (cottage cheese) and this
may be fed quite often. Clean water should be provid-
ed at all times. In feeding, it is a good plan to place
the food on a clean board. This must be cleaned thor-
oughly after each meal. When six weeks old birds
will be fully feathered and able to find food for them-
selves. .

Feed the mother hen a small handful of whole corn
daily. This will keep the hen in good shape and will
also keep her from eating the food provided for the
little birds.

For ALL Brrps—YounGc or OLD.

Feed dutch cheese, or curd, and sour milk three or
four times a week. They like it and it keeps them
healthy, but be sure there is no salt in it. |

Keep clean fresh water before them.

See that they have grit, oyster shell and charcoal.
A little charcoal in their mash is good.

Green food such as lettuce, onions, beet tops, cab-
bage, chopped burdock and pig weed is good for them
and they enjoy it.

A little beef scrap strengthens the young and the old
birds and takes the place of bugs they may lack, but be
sure it is sweet.

Do not feed more at one time than they will clean up,
as it will sour and, if they eat it later, it will make them
sick.

SHIPMENTS OF YOUNG PHEASANTS.

In addition to distribution of pheasant eggs, it is the
plan of the Department to send out limited numbers
- of young pheasants from the State Game Farm. These
shipments will be made in two ways: (1) broods of
about fifteen young pheasants with hen foster-mother
in same crate; (2) consignments of young pheasants
which are old enough to take care of themselves.

In either case the applicant should remember that
pheasants are very shy and should not be handled more
tian is absolutely necessary. ‘The birds must be
liberated immediately after being received.

In case of hen and brood, liberate at once in an open
field near a piece of woods at least one-fourth mile
from any building. Place the crate on its side, remove
cover half way and allow hen and chicks to leave the
crate of their own accord. A handful of grain should
be scattered and the hen left to call her brood together.
It is well to throw a little grain occasionally where the
hen and brood were released. ‘This will usually bring
them back to same place for food, giving the persons
interested an opportunity to watch the little pheasants
grow and develop.

Well grown pheasants should be taken at once to
the cover in which it is planned to liberate them. Be-
fore releasing the birds, scatter grain on the ground
where it can be easily found. Place the basket on its
side, slide the cover back about six inches, stand back
and wait for the birds to come out, which they will do
in a leisurely manner. After the birds have become
accustomed to their surroundings the crate can be
removed.

Address all communications to WILLIAM H.
MORRILL, Department of Fish and Game, Mont-—

pelier, Vermont.

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£Ond@ alts! bit

BIRDS MAKE AGRICULTURE POSSIBLE.

BY KILLING INSECTS AND RODENT PESTS,
HahY SAVE CROPS WORTH MILLIONS OF
DOLLARS.

FISH AND GAME FURNISH FOOD.

MAOUSANDS OE ONS ARE. GAKEN -AN-
. INUINGEIENG

Conservation Laws are designed to make Fish and
Game and Birds more abundant and are vitally neces-
sary for National Welfare.

THE MAN WHO ILLEGALLY-TAKES GAME
OR FISH OR KILLS BIRDS DECREASES FOOD
RESOURCES SAND DEFRAUDS, HIS COUNTRY.

REPORT VIOLATIONS TO THE NEAREST
CAVE PROTECEOR:

FISH AND GAME DEPARTMENT
of
VERMONT

The game is owned by all the people
and the ninety per cent or moreofthe
population who do not shoot game,
must still assist in protecting their
rights in the game and their right to
leave a heritage in wild-life.

HAYES LLOYD