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ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

AND

SAT SAW THERE |

BY

C. D.\GRISWOLD, M. D.,

RECENTLY ONE OF THE SURGEONS OF THE P. R. kh. CO.
ee

NEW YORK:
DEWITT.-AND DAVENPORT,
TRIBUNE BUILDINGS.

1852.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by
CHAUNCEY D. GRISWOLD,

in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern
District of New York.

BAKER, GODWIN & CO., PRINTERS,

TRIBUNE BUILDINGS.

TO JOHN LLOYD STEPHENS.

Yuars ago, when I first read your books on Central America, [ felt
that I had made a new acquaintance, who introduced me to a better
knowledge of a strange land, and a peculiar people, with all’ that was
known of a still more remarkable race, who left but tottering monu-
ments to tell us that they have existed.

I little thought then that it would ever be my privilege to know you,
except as my instructor through your writings; and much less did I
think it were possible that [should ever sit down with you beneath
the shade of the Palm, in thesame sunny clime, bordering on the field
of your former investigations, and there listen while you taught me
many things which I was so glad to learn.

Since commencing the preparation of these pages for the press, there
is no name that has been more familiar in my thoughts than yours—
not that we ever spoke one word together upon the subject, for I had
not the task in contemplation when I saw you last—but because I re-
gard more earnestly the authors of works on facts, than of fiction; and,
as a slight tribute to one of the most useful among the living writers, I

erave the permission to dedicate this unpretending volume to you.
CuHauncey D. GrRiswotp.

22 WARREN STREET,
Niw York, DEcEMBER, 1851. |

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A life devoted almost exclusively to Medical Sci-
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has never thought of venturingaclaim. It has been
his desire, in writing this work, to furnish the travel-
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concerning the Isthmus of Panama, and thus making

a useful, rather than a pleasing book.
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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Character of the Spanish Settlers—Agriculture the basis of
National prosperity—Example of the Spaniard and the
Puritan— First settlement on the Spanish Main— Discovery
of the Pacific Ocean by Balbao—He founds the way of
Panama—Porto Bello—Fort San Lorenzo

CHAPTER II.

Further reasons of failure by the Spaniards—Sources of His-. —

torical Information—Spain attempts to keep her Discove-
ries a Secret—-The Buccaneers—Peculiarities of the Buc-
caneers ° ° e ® e ° ® ® e

CHAPTER III.

History of the Isthmus continued—Crusade of the Bucca-
neers against Old Panama—Its plunder and destruction
by Morgan and his men, in 1670

CHAPTER IV. ene

History continued—Scottish Darien Expedition—Spanish
’ Measures against it—Its Fate—Boundaries of the Isthmus
Panama—lIts Population — impor — —Geological
Observations . ; ‘ ‘ :

.

CHAPTER V.

_ The Rivers of the [Isthmus—The Rio Chagres and its Tribu-
taries—The Rio Grande—The Caimito—The City of
Panama—lIts present and past State—Its Improvement—
The Harbor—Porto Bcllo-> Ohagres — Ger gota-—Uruces—
Chorrera, ete. ‘ é ;

CHAPTER. VI.

The Forests of the Isthmus—Their primeval State—The
Palms—Different Varieties—Their Characteristics—The
Blossoms and the Fruit—The various Products and their
Uses——Indispensable to the Natives . ' ° .

PAGE.

15-21

22-32

33-41

42-47

48-54

V1 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VIL.

The Forests--Gorgeous Vegetation——A peculiar Tree—The
Cedro—~Native’ Bungoes—Different Timbers of the Isth-
mus——The India Rubber Tree-—Method of collecting and
preparing the Gum-——-The Milk Tree--The Calabash Tree
~-Objectional Feature of the Isthmus Forests

CHAPTER VII.
Agricultural, Prospetis of the Isthmus—lIts Natural Produc-
tions——-Cotton—-Sugar-Cane—-Tobacco——Plantains, Bana-
nas and their Cultivation—Fruits -——- Chirimoyers——Pine

Apples—Alligator Pears and others--Medicinal Products. .

——I'he Natives’ Antidote for Snake Poison—Castor On
Plant—Ipecacuanha, Sarsaparilla, — :

“

CHAPTER EX.

The Inhabitants of the Isthmus--What Nature has done for
them--Their Food—Clothing—Means for travelling—
Mestizoes—Their Character——Distinction from the Boat-
men—Sas Blas Indians—-Mendingoes+-Their jealousy of
Foreigners—Their Productions and-Prade——Their method

of catching Fish and removing. the. shells from.Turtles——

The Landholders and their Landmarks——Rosas—-—Native

Hotels-—-Dress of the Women-—-Smoking—-Théir Children ;

--Their Ideas of the Future. : i
CHAPTER X.

The Domestic Animals Cows Horses—Mules—Lose—

Fowls—-Dogs——Wild Animals—~Monkeys—-Wild Hogs—
' The Tapir, Ocelot, Jaguar, Bears, &c—Birds and their

PAGE.

55-63

64-68

69-75

Habits—The Toucon—The* Parrot Tribe--The Scarlet -

Macaw——Humming Birds and their Habits-—-Aquatic Birds. -
——Reptiles—Alligators, Boa Constrictors, lgnanos, &e.

~ CHAPTER XI.

The Insect Tribes—A Forest Walk—An Ant’s pages bs
Habitation—Mauner of Working—Queen Ant—-Their
System of Government—-Rules of Warfare-—-The Comi-_

jens—-Their Distinctive Habits—Butterflies—Moths-—Ta-
rantulas — Scorpions —- Vire-Ilies and Lantern-Bugs —
Sand-Flies and Hleas—Garrapattas--Chigoe or Jigger—
Musketoes, &c. : i ‘ : Nes

/ CHAPTER XII.
The Climate of the Isthmus—lIts influence on Health—Pre.
disposing and Exciting causes of Disease—'The Precau-

16-81

82-88 .

CONTENTS.

tions necessary in Avoiding them-—-Character of the Dis-
eases——Habits of the Natives when Sick.

CHAPTER XIIL

Inter- capt ahivation between the Atlantic and Pacific-—Ad-
vantages to Commerce—To the Growth and Prosperity of
the Pacific States--New lines of Steamships—Their effect
in meliofating the Condition of Mankind. |.

CHAPTER XIV.

| Ponande Route for a Ship Canal—Isthmus of Tehuantepec
—Nicaragua—Panama—Relative advantages of Nicaragua
and Panama——Navigation of the River Chagres and River
San J uait—Opinions of Travellers--Reason why they are
so often diverse—_Advantages of the Harbor of Navy Bay.

CHAPTER XV.

Former Views concerning a ‘Railroad across the Isthmus—
Reasons for a change of Opinion—Organization of the Pa-
« nama Railroad Company=—F irst Steps taken for the Prose-
- cution of the Work—Its Magnitude—Manzanilla Island—
The Harbor——Prospective Town—Prospects of Business——

Changes already Effected—The Future—-Sketches of the
‘Asthmus : : :

CHAPTER XVI.

Leaving New York—Arrival at Havana—Appearance of the
Harbor—The City--The Moro Castle ——’ Passports—A
Night in the Harbor ——Architecture of the deo olantes

dt 3 he Bishop’s Garden, &c. :

“CHAPTER X VIE.

An eupleacl Dilemma, for which there is no y remédy—The
highlands ‘of the Isthmus—Chasres—F ort San Lorenzo—
Disembarkation—The Boatmen——Pitiable plight of the
Ladies—Going up the River—Going to Navy Bay—First
Morning on the Island-—The Coral Insect-—Crabs-—Tem-
perature of the Climate .

CHAPTER X Vill.

Leaving Navy Bay, Chagres, Fort San Lorénzo—Arrival at
Gatun Station— Resume our Jour ney in a Small Boat—A
Night at Dos Herminos—An Early Start—The River by
Moonlight — Appearance of Morning — Breakfasting at
Ahorea Lagata—The River Scenery—Arrival at Bujio
Saldado .

Vil

PAGE.

- §9-100

ee ae

108-115

. 116-121

122-129

. 130-135

. 136-142

V1 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.

Bujio Saldado—The Station Buildings — The Ravine —A

‘Yorrent—A_ Professional Call—Sharp Practice among the

_ Natives—-An Alealde’s House and what it Contained—-
His Wife, and how she made Soup . 2 : :

CHAPTER XX,

Why a Swiss loves his Native Country—When Days come
Slow, and go Wearily—River Travel--How we took in
Strangers, and were taken in Ourselves—-Our N eighbors——
How to preserve Beef-—-A new Patient—Sejior Sipreon’s
House, and’ what he Eat, and how he Cooked it—-My
Patient’s case grows Desperate—He prepares to Die, but
does not do it-—Natives’ notions of Railroads -

CHAPTER XXI.

Leaving Bujio Soldado—A Day on the Chagres River—Ar-
rival at Navy Bay—-Visiting the Minde Swamp—Native
Cooking—Gathering Cocoanuts, &e., &e. : :

CHAPTER XXII.

Leaving Navy Bay—The Rolling Sea and Tropic Summer
without Change—The Steamer that could not go up the
River, and consequently went down—A Day on the
Chagres in a Canoe going up—Shooting Game on the
River-—A. queer Bird—An attack of Fever. , ;

CHAPTER XXIII.

Ahorea Lagata—- A Thunder Storm — Another Visit to
Chagres——A ppearance of Manzanilla, going out of the
Harbor —— Captain Chapman and his Adventures—— A
Wreck of Humanity—A Trip down the Bay after Shells——
A Speck at Sea, and what it turned out to be—Departure
Homeward , z ; : ; : ‘

CHAPTER XXIV. Hy
Jamaica——The Harbor at Kingston— Water Imps—-Fruits—
A Ride to Spavish Town—How we got a Diuner, and paid
for it--The Public Square--Desolation . ‘ ‘ .

PAGE,

2 143-148

. 149-153

. 154-158
i

159-163.

. 164-168

169-172

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

CHAPTER iL.

bios ae of the Spanish settlers—Agriculture the basis of National

prosperity—Example of the Spaniard and the Puritan—First set-
tlement on the Spanish Main—Discovery of the Pacific Ocean by
Balbao—He founds the City of Panama—Porto Bello—Fort San
Lorenzo.

‘Aurnover the History of the Isthmus of Panama
records many remarkable events, and the ruins of

ancient towns aud fortifications show that this has
been deemed valuable territory, and occupied by a
wealthy population, yet nothing is more evident than
that. its settlers were actuated by the love of ad-
venture, and that their pursuit was for gold.

While. Spain, with her almost inexhaustible re-
sources, was sending her colonists to this country,
and the fertile islands of the West Indies, and gath-
ering rich harvests of gold, and building fortifica-
tions for her protection and permanence, the hardy

_ Puritans were struggling for a simple subsistence by

10 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

cultivating the rugged soil wpon the northern coast.
The one trusted for the future upon her soldiers and
riches, while the other established the foundation of
a great and permanent commonwealth, by cultivat-
ing the soil. The Puritans were the fathers of a
people that now extend across this broad continent,
from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and have built up
countless cities, and established commercial relations
with every other nation; while the Spanish colonies
have been depopulated, and bear but feeble traces of
a once powerful existence.

Such has ever been the history of communities
who neglected agriculture as the great source of
wealth. A beneficent Providence has made the
cultivation of the soil one of the chief means on which
depend a nation’s prosperity and advancement; but
the Spaniard neglected this, and after having skim-
med the mines of their fe gold, or beddine dis-
appointed in its pursuit, left thie. country the same
almost. unbroken forest that he found it, and so it
remains to this day. |

About the year 1510, Vasques Nunes de Balbao
established the town of Santa Maria on the Darien
Gulf. This person, whose career was brilliant, al-
though short, had owned an estate in Hayti, where,
having become involved in some difficulty with the
government, he was sentenced to be executed; but
he escaped by secreting himself in a bread-cask, on
board a vessel about to sail on an expedition to
“capture Carthagena, Veragua, and other western

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 11

countries.” The vessel on which-he was secreted was
. commanded by one Enciso, and was. subsequently

wrecked off St. Sebastian, after having visited Car-
thagena. By the energy and perseverance of Balbao,
it was finally got off, and set sail, under his charge,
for the coast, of which he took formal possession in
the name of the Spanish monarch, and commenced
the town of Santa Maria. In the meantime, he had
gained a periect ascendency over Enciso, the origi-

.. nal master of theship. In the middle of September,

1513, he, in company with the afterwards celebrated
Francis Pizarro, started on an expedition inland,
which resulted in the discovery of the Pacific Ocean,
and the founding of the important city of Panama.
‘On reaching the shore, he walked into the sea up
to his middle, with his armor on, and solemnly per-
formed the ceremony of taking possession, in the
name of the crown of Castile, of the ocean which he
had discovered.”

Balbao possessed, in a remarkable degree, the
faculty of controlling the passions of men, was
always kind and attentive to the sick, and conse-
quently popular with his subjects; yet, notwith-
standing all this, and the large amounts of gold he
sent home, which. he fairly purchased of the natives,
he was finally beheaded on a charge of having cut
down trees to build a town, without the governor’s
license. It is scarcely necessary to say, that this
loyal murder was instigated by those who were jeal-
ous of his popularity, and envious of his honors.

12 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

Thus perished, in 1517, a good man, who had done
his country more valuable service than any other,
except Cortes—a victim of designing knavery—at
the age of forty-two years. Pedrairas, who was the
principal plotter against Balbao, succeeded him at
Panama, and after having committed many atrocities,
and causing more destruction of Spanish lives in his
mismanaged wars, than did Cortes in his conquest
of Mexico, finally, from jealousy, had Hernandes,
who conquered the territory of Nicaragua under
him, put to death. While there is judgment and
justice in heaven, why need we wonder that Spain
was never prospered in her American possessions,
after having treated the great discoverer as she did,
and afterwards executing, on such pretences, his just
and enterprising followers, to give power to the
treacherous instigators of the crimes ?

Panama, when discovered by Balbao, was an
Indian village, which gave place to the city, the
ruins of which are now known as Old Panama, and
which was destroyed by the buccaneers, under Mor-
gan, in 1670. During the prosperity of the old
city, Porto Bello was built on the Beautiful Harbor,
which its name implies, about twenty-five miles east
of Navy Bay, and was made the northern terminus
of a paved mule-road from Panama, which to this
day remains, at some points, in a state of tolerable
preservation, while at others all traces of it are swept
away. The most remarkable statements have been
made respecting this place, as a depot for the trade

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA, 13

of the South American Pacific coast. That it was
made the shipping port for the products of the South
American mines, in a great measure, there may be
no doubt; but that “bars of silver and ingots of
gold were piled in the streets, without fear or anxiety
for their safety,” we can hardly credit, even in this
golden age, although all this is positively asserted;
and that ‘‘ gorgeous displays of specie were witnessed
in these times,”’ and that trade was so abundant and
profitable, that “the rent of a floor in some of the
houses cost the prodigious sum of one thousand dol-
lars per month,” is scarcely credible. The writer
we quote remarks, that this was ‘ her golden age.”
It must have been, for she looks very unlike it now.
A very strong fortification was built here, the walls
of which are in a tolerably good state of preservation
to this time; but there is no need of her watch-tow-
ers or sentinels now, for no one goes there who can
keep it, there being no inducement to do so; and,
moreover, from the reputed unhealthiness of the
place, it is avoided as much as possible. The town
is built at the foot of high mountains, and the harbor
is so land-locked that the sea breeze is mostly shut
out, consequently the causes of disease are not only
generated, but retained there. It was, probably, ©
during those brilliant days of Porto Bello, that the
Fort San Lorenzo was built at the mouth of the
Chagres River. How different must. have been
the scenes at these place:, while the busy sounds of
the builders were to be heard in these stupendous

Pi

14 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

works, which now stand in solemn silence, hoary
with age, proud monuments of architectural skill,
upon whose ramparts lie prostrate, to this day, the
heavy guns that once thundered forth the laws of an
invading race, but are now as inoffensive and pow-
erless as so many fallen trees.

CHAPTER II.

Further reasons of Failure by the Spaniards—Sources of Historical
Information——-Spain attempts to keep her discoveries a secret—
The Bueccaneers—Peculiarities of the Buccaneers.

THERE are, undoubtedly, other reasons than such as
are hinted at in the last chapter for the slow ad-
vancement, orretrogression, and the present condition |
of the Spanish settlements in. both North and South
America. The Spanish united with an indisposi-
tion to till the soil, and a sort of Don Quixote chiv-
alry, which is of very little value in practical affairs,
a constitutional and hereditary lack of enterprise,
which will render them, according to some of the
wise prophets of our time, as ee the subjects of
the Saxons as the old Foentenk were of the Romans.

They are, unhappily forthemselves, without the pro-
gr essive de tint: and this, when the world is rush-
ing forward at its present pace, is to be without the
first principle of national respectability, or even of
national existence. How easily the Isthmus of Pan-
ama may be made rich and populous, I trust will

soon be seen, from the new influences that are ope-
rating there. The present changes in its condition
are scarcely less important than the most radical and
striking from the days of Balbao.

16 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

Since the beginning of that tide of emigration
across the Isthmus of Panama, which results from
the discovery of the gold region in California, and
the greater interest which has been felt in this little
but important territory by capitalists, who have con-
templated by some means the establishment of con-
nections between the Atlantic and Pacific, there
has been no lack of historical notices, as well
as descriptions of its surface, &c.; but I have seen
scarcely any thing that bears a mark of original in-
vestigation, or that has any material freshness even
of expression. The old gazetteer and encyclopedia pa-
ragraphs have been constantly re-produced. And as
my object is not so particularly to offer a history of
Panama as it is to place in the hands of emigrants
some needful and interesting descriptions of the
Isthmus, its phenomena, resources, &c., I shall not
attempt much originality on this point. From a re-
cent number of Chambers’s “‘ Papers for the People,”
the facts in the present chapter are for the most part
derived, and these facts may at least entertain the
reader, though he cherish a far greater anxiety
respecting what is present, and what he will have to
encounter, if he shall for any purpose go there.

There was something magnificently ludicrous in
the notion which the rulers of Spain conceived—of
keeping the discoveries of the immortal Genoese a
close secret to themselves. That this idea was se-
riously entertained, there can be no doubt. In 1517,
an English merchant-ship which made St. Domingo,
was fired at by the new authorities there, and driven

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 17

away. he news of this incident occasioned great
consternation in the councils of the home govern-
ment; and although the zeal of the governor of St.
Domingo was duly commended, it was gravely sug-
gested that the wiser course would have been to have
siezed the vessel and detained the crew, as it was
now much to be feared that the sailors would not
only, on their return to Europe, report their disco-
very, but teach others the route to the golden pos-
sessions of his Catholic Majesty. This brilliant
scheme of locking up the two Americas as “treasure
trove” for the especial use and enjoyment of the
finders not succeeding, it was determined to fortify
the imaginary right of the monarchs of Spain to the
undisturbed sovereignty and possession of countries
of which no European had yet surveyed a hundredth
part of the coast line, by the authority of the church.
In 1524, Pope Alexander VI., the father of the Bor-
gias—Lucretia and Cxsar—issued a bull, solemnly

. conferring the Americas, or New Indies, as they

were termed, with all adjacent islands, on the king
of Spain and his successors. This gift of the head
of the church, those monarchs applied all the power
they could command to enforce and maintain, and
they consequently soon found themselves in collision
with thousands of the hot and adventurous spirits of
Europe, who, despite the spiritual and temporal
thunders wielded by the Spanish monarchs, resolved
at all hazards on securing a share of the glittering
prize which the genius and daring of the navigators
of various climes had brought within the reach of a
Ox

18 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

dazzled and astonished world. In 1526, two years
after the issue of the bull, a Mr. Tyson was deputed
to the new countries as agent for a company of Eng-
lish merchants. He was abundantly successful, and
private enterprise was of course stimulated into great
and constantly increasing activity, by the profits
vhich accrued to the adventurers. To check the au-
dacity of the trespassers upon his new dominions,
the sovereign of Spain instituted a coast guard,
whose duty it was to capture and slay all intruders
upon the shores of the Spanish main and West India
islands. A more hopeless task, powerful as Spain
was before her gold and silver discoveries, can scarce-
ly be imagined. To aid the otherwise altogether in-
sufficient efforts of the guarda-costas, the terror of
mutilation and torture was superadded io that of
death, by the Spanish authorities, and Europe
rang with the stories, doubtless somewhat exag-
gerated, of cruelties practiced by the Spaniards
upon the luckless traders who fell into their
hands. These iniquities were retorted upon the
perpetrators with abundant interest. The American
seas speedily swarmed with buccaneers, flibusters*
—Brethren of the Coast—consisting of English,
Scotch, Welch, and Frenchmen, whose self-imposed
mission it was, whilst enriching themselves by trade

* The origin of these names is curious enough. Flibustier, the
French term, is a corruption of the English word Freebooter ; and the
term Buceaneer arose from the name ‘‘ Boucan,”’ by which the Barib-
bean Indians designated meat which they taught the *‘ Brethren of the

Coast’? to preserve in a peculiar manner, and which constituted the
chief portion of the rover’s focd. Hence “‘ Boucanier’’— Buccaneer.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 19

nd plunder, to avenge upon the Spaniard whatever
wrong or cruelty he had inflicted upon their country-
men. These desperadoes soon became extremely
formidable, and the entire power of Spain, fiercely

‘and lavishly exerted, proved utterly insufficient to

seriously check, much less to put them down. One
man, a Frenchman by the name of Montbar, was so
excited by a recital of the cruelties practiced by the
Spanish authorities, that he sold all he possessed,
fitted out a vessel, sailed to the American coast, and
became ultimately so terrible by his retaliatory ex-
cesses, as to acquire amongst the “ Brethren” the dis-
tinguishing title of “The Exterminator.” <A strange
mixture of generous daring and remorseless cruelty
appears to have characterised the doings of these
men; and their religion, in a certain sense, was oc-
easionally as conspicuous as their ruffianism. A
French captain, of the English name of Daniel, shot
one of his crew for disrespectful behaviour during
the celebration of mass; Captain Richard Sawkins
threw all the dice in his ship overboard when he
found he could not otherwise prevent his sailors
from gambling on the Sunday; and the first thing
Captain John Watling did, on assuming command,
was to order his freebooters to keep holy the Sabbath
day. These gentlemen did not, it must be remem-
bered, wait to be themselves attacked, nor did they
confine themselves to retaliation upon the Spanish
authorities and forces for injuries inflicted upon
others. They pounced upon every Spanish ship or
settlement they were able to master, and commenced

20 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

business the instant they arrived on the scene of ac-
tion; in order, to use their own expression, to pay
themselves beforehand (se dédommager d’avance)
for any mishaps which might in the future befall
themselves or their countrymen. The arrogant pre-
tensions of Spain were also resisted by the sovereigns
of England, though feebly and inefficiently; and it
was not only in the harbor of Cadiz that Elizabeth’s
sailors, in Drake’s expressive phrase, “singed the
whiskers” of the projector of the Armada. ‘lhe
English queen ridiculed the Spaniards’ assumption
of exclusive sovereignty over regions which they
could not even pretend proximately to occupy;
James and Charles held the same doctrine; and
Northern America, which Spain, finding no gold
there, cared little about, was gradually colonized.
The effective chastisement of the Spaniards in the
American seas, was reserved for the strong hand of
Cromwell. Beneath the shadow of his terrible name
the infant states dwelt in peace; the island of Ja-
maica was wrested from Spain; and the buccaneers
were astonished and displeased to find their vocation
suddenly gone by the appearance of the Protector’s
admirals in the waters where the flag of England had
never before waved in triumph andsupremacy. The
Restoration once more changed the aspect of affairs,
and the sea-rovers and their foes were again engaged
in incessant conflict. This was the period of the cele-
brated Sir Henry Morgan’s exploits, the most re-
doubtable of the Brethren of the Coast, and a gen-
tleman who, for his great and varied merits, or the

NN
a

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 21

presents he conferred on Lady Castelmaine, was not
only knighted by Charles iL., but invested with the
deputy-governorship of Jamaica, and the presidency
of the Admiralty Court there ; in which capacities
he had the pleasure and satisfaction of hanging a
considerable number of his old friends and comrades
who were so ill advised as to persist in a course which
had led their old leader to dignity and,fortune. The

. scene of the principal exploit of this desperado was

the Isthmus of Panama.

CHAPTER te TTT,

History of the Isthmus continued——Crusade of the Buccaneers against
Old Panama—Its plunder and destruction by Morgan and his men,
in 1670.

Aone the few modern writers who have contributed
to redeem the history of this country from the ob-
livion to which it was fast sinking, the well-known
Dr. Theller is deserving honorable mention for the
service he has done in this field of inquiry. I fre-
quently encountered him on the Isthmus, and am in-
debted to him for the particulars of the important
episode «onnecting with this region the name of
Morgan.

The history of that period, on this coast, and all
that was then known as the “ Spanish Main,” is but
one series of aggressions on the Spanish possessions,
and the Spanish shipping returning home, by nu-
merous bands of men known as “ Freebooters,” or
“ilbustiers.” Among them was one desperate char-
acter, named Morgan, an Englishman. He was the
most reckless and bloodthirsty among thousands
whose passion was blood, and whose trade was rob-
bery. After having desolated a goodly number of
the young Spanish towns on the main coast of the
Caribbean Sea, he thought he would visit Panama on

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 20

the Pacific—then allowed to be the richest city on
the continent. He issued a proclamation, calling
upon all the adventurers, English and French, who
resided in Jamaica, Tortugas Islands, and St. Do-
mingo, to assemble on a certain day, when he would
inform them of an adventure that would enrich them
all, and allow them—if any wished—to return to
England or France, and spend the rest of their days
in opulence and peace.

The place chosen tor the rendezvous was. Port
Gongon, on the south of St. Domingo; and on and
before the day, vessels from all quarters, full of daring,
bold men, were to be seen entering the little harbor.
Morgan, in his own twenty-four gun frigate, the
“Kite,” arrived on the day; and when he unfolded
his plans to the assembled buccaneers, and asked for
volunteers, all rushed forward to his standard. He
was elected commander-in-chief on land, and admi-
ral on water. He appointed a commander for each
vessel, and set sail with thirty-seven vessels, and 2,200
men. ‘Their course was directed towards the island
of St. Catharine, which they took, and where they
found three prisoners that had been sent from Pan-
ama, whom Morgan decided should act as guides
for him, promising them freedom and money, if
faithful ; instant death, if treacherous. Captain
Bradelet, a Frenchman, with four vessels, was sent
to take possession of Fort San Lorenzo, at the mouth
of Chagres river. The fort was taken after a despe-
rate resistance ; out of three hundred men who gar-
risoned it, only fourteen were left alive, the rest

24. THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

having fallen in the hand to hand conflict in repel-
ling the frequent assaults of the freebooters.

Morgan gave orders to repair the fort, and left
500 men for its defence, and 150 men on board the
vessels, to guard the harbor, and prepare for any
emergency. Heprepared a fleet of canoes, and with
about 1,300 daring followers, and a few pieces of
light artillery, he ascended the Chagres river, amid
the shouts and good wishes of that part of his little
army thatheleft behind. The voyage was perilous and
tedious. They had little or no provisions with them,
and the flying Spaniards had destroyed or driven
away everything which could nourish or sustain
life. Besides, on their arrival at Cruces, they
found that that place had been fired by the retreating
Spaniards, and they had to get along as best they
could. The mosquito fleet of canoes were sent back
to Chagres, with enough men to guard them, and
with whatever was bulky or heavy, that would im-
pede the rest in a journey across the Isthmus. They
left Cruces in high spirits, and twelve hours after
were gratified with the sight of the glittering spires
of Panama, but at the same time they perceived a
large ship and five smaller ones departing for the
Island of Taboga, and carrying with them part of the
wealth they had already counted as their own. On
nearing the city, they found a large force of armed
Spaniards awaiting their arrival—nearly quadruple
their own number. Morgan addressed his men; he
pointed to the ships carrying away the treasure, but
reminded them of that of the churches, and the large

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 25

masses of gold that had accumulated in the hands of
the merchants; that the whole Spanish army stood
before them, and that now was the time for them to
acheive a splendid victory, or be totally annihilated.

The Spanish force was a splendid looking body
of men, dressed in silks*and satins, and riding mag-
nificent horses, but when the rough, ferocious-looking
buccaneers had grappled with them their “ hour had
come.” Ofthe Spanish cavalry but fifty men escaped.
The infantry, seeing the mannerin which the cavalry
were treated, after a few vollies, did not wait for the
charge, but began to run in all directions, pursued
with tiger-like ferocity by the the buccaneers, who
killed hundreds of them while flying. An officer
taken prisoner, told Morgan that the city was de-
serted, most of the women, children, and treasure
sent to Taboga, and that the Governor had left to
defend the place, 3,000 infantry, 400 cavalry, and
600 Indians. This army was defeated and cat to

pieces by Morgan, with a loss of two men killed and

two wounded. ‘The old city of Panama fell into his
hands after a battle of two hours, against a force
quadruple to his own. To prevent his men from
getting drunk, lest they might be surprised and
taken, he told them that the wine and other liquors
had been poisoned by the priests. He sent, under
the command of an English captain, in a small ves-
sel, (which they took in the act of cutting her cable),
a party of twenty-five men to the Island of Taboga,
to fire all the houses on the island, and to bring back
the vessels that had left. Next day the party re-

26 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

tured, bringing with them three of the larger ships,
laden with specie and valuable goods. They had
found, besides, about a hundred mules loaded with
the same cargoes, trying to push into the interior of
the island to secrete them. or three weeks did the
whole. party remain in Panama, collecting all the
valuables they could find, and making excursions
in the surrounding country for the same purpose, that
were highly successful. The prisoners were held to
ransom, according to their wealth, which contributed
much to the general fund. On leaving Panama,
the amount of baggage was immense, and required a
strong guard. Whether it was to punish the Span-
iards for some past actions, or for some newly dis-
covered treachery among the citizens, is not known,
but Morgan took 500 of them with him as prisoners,
and ordered the city to be fired. After two days,
they arrived at Cruces, where the prisoners were
ransomed, and allowed to return, while the bucca-
neers descended the river to Chagres, where there
was a division of the spoil; Morgan’s share being
sufficient to keep him in Tainaiee: the rest of His
days were spent in a style of lavish hospitality, and
in dispensing his wealth in the most liberal man-
ner on all objects that attracted his admiration.

Thus Panama—“ The Old,” as the natives call
it—fell, and it remains in ruins down to this day.
The inhabitants preferring a locality more defenci-
ble, chose the site of the present city (six miles dis-
tant), and in that year, (1670), commenced tne
buildings and defences.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. at

True to the policy of Spain in all her transatlantic
possessions, her governors were always soldiers, and
the sites of her cities were invariably chosen more
with reference to military resources than for com-
merce. A good harbor, where a ship could lie close
to the shore, and receive or discharge her cargo, was
a thing to be dreaded. Ob, no! choose some spot
on an open roadstead, where no vessel of any burthen
can approach nearer than cannon shot, and would
have to embark or disembark in small boats, giving
time to the garrison to sink them if an enemy. In
reference to these views the present site of the city
was chosen. |

The fear of death or of further robbery by the
freebooters, had the efiect upon the houseless in-
habitants of driving from their minds much of the
sadness they naturally felt for their recent loss,
and set them to work with alacrity in building up
_ and fortifying their new city; at the same time, it is
but natural to believe, that after the fatigues of the
day, they could not but regret the comforts of which
they had so recently been bereft. Their “ Beautiful
City,” with its six thousand houses, constructed of
cedar wood—its eight convents—its cathedral—its
hospital, and its numerous gardens and villas, owned
by its wealthy merchants, that stretched far into the
surrounding country—their haciendas, where they
could retire at different seasons—their mines of gold,
worked by their negro slaves, brought by the Geno-
ans, many of whom had been captured and retained -
by themselves were all sources of melancholy ; but

28 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

all was gone, and their repining was altogether use-
less.

Perseverance and incessant toil soon surrounded
them again with the comforts they had lost; and the
security they felt in their new and now partially for-
tified home, made them forget their old one, when,
after a lapse of fifteen years, they were again af-
frighted with the intelligence that the freebooters
were in their vicinity, and, doubtless, would revisit
them. Spies were sent out, and returned giving an
account of anumber of the ships of the freebooters
at anchor, about thirty leagues below, at a place
called the King’s Islands. Hourly expecting an at-
tack, they prepared themselves (this time behind
their entrenchments) to receive the enemy warmly.

The fleet of the buccaneers was composed of ten
vessels—two frigates, four ships, three barks, and a
brig. Out of the ten commanders, eight were Eng-
lish, one French, and the other Dutch—the last, call-
ed David, was their admiral. The total number of
men was eleven hundred.

The greater part of these vessels had been captur-
ed by some Englishmen under David, and brought
through the Straits of Magellan to the Pacific. Their
principal object was not, however, to attack the new
city, but to lie in wait for the Spanish fieet, which at
that season of the year (April) was coming from Lima
to Panama. Still, to keep his men employed, rather
than have them gambling on board, in idleness, the
admiral had no objection to their doing a little land
service, where something could be gained, with little

OE eee

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 29

loss of life or time. He would not allow them to at-
tack the newly fortified city then, but chose rather
to send five hundred of them in boats to attack
another smaller pueblo called “ Seppa,” or “‘ Chiapa,”
which they did, but found little treasure in it; so
little, indeed, that they considered the expedition
“a great loss of time and of very little profit.” On
the 8th of May the fleet weighed anchor, and passed
Old Panama, which had been destroyed fifteen years
before, by Morgan and a great many of the older men
on board. They sailed slowly, passed the new city
out of gun range, and, after some time, went down
to the Island of Taboga, which place, the historian
says, seemed to be an enchanted spot, on account of
the beauty and variety of its vegetation, and by the
neat, little, deserted villas, built by the inhabitants
of Panama: They waited there some weeks for the
Spanish fleet, which, at length, on the 17th of May,

appeared in sight. The freebooters put to sea,

and prepared for the combat. On drawing near
them, the Spaniards, had they had any doubts be-
fore, were soon informed who were their enemies ;
as well from the appearance of their ships, as from
that ominous flag—the Skull and Cross-Bones, the
piratical emblem under which so many atrocities —
had been committed. In answer to this the royal
standard of Castile and Leon was given to the wind ;
and, more significant still, could be seen the Spanish
officer nailing this flag to the mast.

The buccaneers advanced boldly to the fight.
The cheers of the men and their extravagant mani-

30 THE’ ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

festations of joy, showed that, in their own estima-
tion, victory was sure to be theirs, and that the hopes
they entertained were about to be realized. The
Spaniard would not allow the buccaneers to ap-
proach too closely, but kept his distance—his supe-
rior metal raking the adversary at every shot, while
from the distance, the artillery of the other was com-
pletely powerless. David and his men could stand
this no longer, but broke through shot and shell to
grapple with their prize. Fora long time the battle
was contested and interrupted by various circum-
stances. At the commencement, the Spaniards had
the advantage; and had they had a commander
equal to any of those of the opposing ships, the result
would have been different. Both parties withdrew
—the Spaniards under the shelter of the guns of the
ramparts of the city, while the others sailed up the
coast, and in a few days appeared again, with their
vessels repaired and themselves recruited in spirits,
ready to resume Phe contest. The Spaniard had,
meantime, fortified a part of the city, and placed
some very heavy artillery that would bear directly
upon the ships of the buccaneers, and under the pro-
tection of these guns did the Spanish fleet lie, while
the enemy tauntingly sailed about the harbor and
kept them for weeks in a state of blockade, with a
force so vastly their inferior.

The “masterly inactivity” of the Don overcame
the patience of David and his men, and they for a
while agreed to abandon the blockade, and go on
small expeditions along the coast, sacking cities, pil-

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 34

laging vessels, and whatever other. honest-like means
they could turn their hands to, and that would pro-
cure them treasure worthy of their notice. One of
the most important of these expeditions was directed
against the city of Raeljo, then a place of some im-
- portance, about 800 miles west of Panama. The
city was taken, sacked, and burned in October, with
a considerable number of small towns and villages
in the neighborhood, from which much treasure was
obtained.

Karly in the year 1686, the apeentiions returned
with their fleet, now mel augmented by the
Spanish prizes they had taken. They directed their
course towards Taboga, which they made their head-
quarters, and depot for the valuables they had ob-
tained in their cruise. For a while, they busied —
themselves in fortifying the island, after which they
determined on making, says the Spanish historian, a
“ferocious onslaught” on Panama. Asa prelimi- -
nary measure to their attack, they sent a reece.
to the Governor to deliver up forthwith the prisoners
which the Spaniards had taken in the previous en-
gagement on the seas, on board of one of the ships
which they, the las ds, had carried by boarding.
Lhis polite request was gr ee In a few days afer
they made a second demand or requisition on the
Governor for provisions and liquors and wines of all
sorts, to sustain them during their little pleasure trip
on iad. This, too, was immediately granted.
Yet, another demand was made upon him for six
thousand dollars, and this, also, was granted. At

32 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

last, navely says our friend, the narrator, they be-
came so emboldened by their success, that with an
audaciousness only becoming freebooters, they again
made a levy of ten thousand dollars upon him; and
again, for a still further sum of ten thousand dollars,
and the chief magistrate (as he calls the Governor)
submitted with shame and humiliation. Having
extorted these sums, and being somewhat disgusted
with the pudihuiniiey of these men, behind their
trenches, the buccaneers retired, satiation with their
success, and proceeded up the Bay of Panama. -

—E ——————————— —

GuATTER’ PY.

History continued——Scottish Darien Expedition—Spanish Measures
against it—Its Fate— Boundaries of the Isthmus of Panama—Pop-
ulation—Physical Aspect—Geologica]l Observations.

Marrers thus progressed, with varying fortune, ac-
cording to the author we have been quoting, till
‘the close of the seventeenth century, when the
peace of Ryswick enabled the government of Spain
to put forth all its strength in defense of their
South American possessions, and a comparative
calm ensued in those latitudes. It was about this
time that the project and failure of the memorable
Scottish Darien expedition occurred. Mr. Paterson,
a Scotch gentleman of a remarkably speculative and
enterprising turn of mind, conceived the idea of se-
curing the ‘‘ door of the seas”—his own expression—
by establishing a powerful half-commercial, half-
military colony to the eastward of Porto Bello, on a
line of coast of which he averred the Spanish govern-
ment were not the rulers, either de facto or de jure.
Mr. Paterson first proposed his scheme to the Eng-
lish government, by whom it was coldly rejected.
He afterwards, by the zealous coéperation of Fletch-
er of Saltoun, obtained the support of the Marquis
of Tweedale, then chief minister of Scotland, and
3

34 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

other influential persons, for his project ; and the ul-
timate result was, that an act of parliament passed
‘the Scottish legislature, and was duly consented to
by King William IIT., authorizing and incorporating
the Scottish Darien Company. This was no sooner
done than a sudden furor seized the usually cautious
Scottish people. Mr. Paterson’s estimate of the re-
quired capital was £2,000,000 sterling; and £400,000,
a full half of the entire specie of Scotland at that
period, was at once subscribed by the projector’s
countrymen. English merchants also applied for
shares to a large amount, and the Hamburg capital-
ists entered eagerly into the speculation. This was
scarcely to be wondered at, for, according to Mr.
Paterson, the humblest shareholder was certain to
acquire enormous riches. The prize to be obtained,
according to the projector’s statement, as given in Sir
John Dalrymple’s ‘“‘ Memoirs of Great Britain and
Ireland,” was no less than the exclusive possession -
“of the door of the seas and the key of the universe,
which, with anything of reasonable management,
would enable the proprietors to give laws to both
oceans, and to become arbitrators of the commercial
world, without being liable to the fatigues, expenses,
dangers, or incurring the blood and guilt of Alexan-
der and of Ceesar.” This tissue of extravagance and
folly will give the reader some idea of the glittering.
prestige attached to the Isthmus of Panama by a
certain class of minds, from the day when Nunez de
Balbao descried from one of its hills the Pacific on
the one hand and the Atlantic on the other.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 35

In another document, quoted by the same au-
thority, Mr. Paterson says, “Trade will increase
trade, money will beget money, and the trading
world shall need no more to want work for their
hands, but will rather want hands for their work.”
Besides the gold which was to be had for the trouble
of finding it, Mr. Paterson proposed that a duty of
5 per cent. should be levied for the profit of the com-
pany on all merchandise passing the Isthmus, and
10 per cent. on specie, gems, &c. It is not sur-
prising that the avidity with which shares in this,
under the circumstances, preposterous scheme were
taken up, should have suggested to Law, as he af-

- terwards declared, the notion of his far more auda-

cious Mississippi project ; but it is astonishing to find
that the East India Companies, both of England and
Holland, exhibited a stupid and envious dislike of
the scheme, and prevailed on William III., notwith-
standing his sanction of the Scottish act of parlia-
ment creating the company, to discourage and thwart
the proposed emigrants in the basest manner. The
Hamburg merchants, although they talked rather
largely, were induced to withdraw their subscrip-
tions, and the English capitalists did the same, so that
the entire pecuniary burthen of the project rest-
ed upon the Scottish people. They, however, abated
not one jot of heart or hope. A number of war ves-
sels were purchased in Holland, and the first part of
the expedition, consisting of about 1200 men, set
sail from Leith amidst the prayers and blessings of
many thousands of their assembled countrymen.

36 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

They reached the Guif of Darien in safety, and es-
tablished themselves on the coast in localities to
which they gave the names of New Calidonia and
New St. Andrews. The government of Spain had
been perfectly quiet during the agitation of the
project, and the arrangements for carrying it out;
but no sooner was the expedition arrived at the
Isthmus, than—secretly instigated, it was believed,
by the English King—2it resolved to attack the
embryo colony. The unfortunate Highlanders, de-
cimated as they soon were by fever, hunger, and pri-
vations of all kinds, could still at all events fight ;
and Captain Campbell, of Finab, a relative of the
Athole and Breadalbane families, who had joined
his countrymen with some followers, was chosen to
command them. Captain Campbell had served in
William’s continental wars, and his military mea-
sures were prompt and decided. At the head of a
few hundred picked men, he made a rapid night-
march to Tuburactu, where a large body of Spanish
troops were posted, and surprised and scattered them.
His victory was a barren one. On returning with
his triumphant soldiers, he found the Scottish settle-
ments beleagued seaward by a Spanish squadron.
There was no help, and, after a gallant but ineffect-
ual resistance, the surviving colonists capitulated,
with the exception of Captain Campbell, who, fearful
of trusting to the tender mercies of the Spaniards, es-
caped overland, and ultimately arrived safe in Scot-
land. Paterson, who became temporarily deranged
by the failure of his project, was amongst the sur-

— a ee SS

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 37

vivors, and one of the few who regained their native
shores. The second part of the expedition sailed be-
fore the fate of the first had been ascertained, and
the whole affair terminated most disastrously.
However much incidental causes might have contri-
buted to hasten the catastrophe—the jealousy of the
English merchants, and the bad faith of William III.
being amongst the chief of these—the shipwreck of
a scheme so flimsily based and rashly undertaken,
could by no skill or prudence have been long
averted.

Having already occupied more space than we had.
intended with the history of this country, we devote
the remainder of this chapter to a few brief remarks
on its topography.

Panama embraces that portion of “the great
American Isthmus which lies between Darien on the
east, and Costa Rica on the west, and contains about
twenty-five thousand square miles. It is one of the
Provinces of New Grenada, forming the extreme
western portion of that state, and is the department
known as Istmo, comprising Panama and Veragua.

This portion of the great Isthmus describes in the
main a curve, the convex border or coast, looking
North, being upon the Caribbean Sea, whiie its con-
cave, or Southern boundary, is on the Bay of Pana-
ma.

The population of the Isthmus, embracing Pana-
ma and Veragua, is supposed to be about one
hundred and fifty thousand; but this conclusion is

38 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

arrived at more from a general calculation, than by
any attempts at an accurate census.

The physical aspect of the Isthmus is for the
most part mountainous and rugged. Along the val-
ley of the Chagres river there are, however, some
very excellent table lands, especially at Pena Blanca
and Barbacoa, which it must be almost painful for
a farmer to see remaining uncultivated, but more
particularly in the vicinity of Panama. Gigi back
from the river, the hills often rise abruptly, but sel-
dom to a greater height than 150 to 300 feet, and
are skirted by fertile plains and green savannas, or
narrowly divided by ravines, down which flow, du-
ring the rainy season, in torrents, the rapidly accu-
mulated volumes of water, to unite with the larger
stream inf the valley. The soil is mostly of red clay,
and does not readily absorb the falling rain, which
consequently is shed from the hill-sides as from the
roof of a house, causing that rapid rise in the rivers
which is so frequently noticed by travellers in this
country.

It was formerly supposed that the Cordilleras ex-
tended uninterruptedly through the whole of North
and South America, being simply greatly depressed
on the Isthmus of Panama. But it has been shown
by Berghaus, Hopkins, and others, that no such
continuity exists. The Cordilleras of the Andes ter-
minate at Darien; and the great North American
range probably commences near the Isthmus of Te-
huantepec.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 39

Col. Hughes, in his report, says that the two con-
tinents, as they formerly existed, are now connected
by aseries of uplifted hills of variable height, form-
ing a not well defined, but sinuous and contorted
ridge, dividing the waters of the Pacific from those
of the Atlantic, curving through the Isthmus of Pan-
ama in the form of anarc. Upon the slopes of this
ridge, and often towering above it, are seen isolated
conical hills, sometimes connected with each other,
or with the dividing range, by low ridges of land.
Nearly the whole of this formation is obviously re-
cent, and of igneous origin. . It consists of porphyry,
greenstone, columnar basalt, hornblende, and _ tra-
pean rocks ; and altered Jimestone and granites,
changed from other rocks by the action of fire, also
occur. A considerable variety of minerals are found,
such as copper and iron, agates, chalcedonies, and
cornelians; and gold has been discovered in almost
every stream, especially on the Atlantic slope; in-
deed it is not improbable, from the many indications
of its existence, that the mines of this metal may
prove, on further examination of the country, to be
of great value. Where sedimentary rocks are found,
it is obvious that they are of still more recent origin
than the igneous formations, and have been deposited
since the upheaving of the latter, as they abut upon
them, without disturbance of their strata, which are
perfectly horizontal. Some exceptions to this rule
are mentioned, but they escaped the observation of
Colonel Hughes. It is almost impossible to resist the

40 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

conclusion that at no remote period the two Ameri-
cas were completely separate, the ocean flowing
freely and uninterruptedly between them, and occu-
pying nearly all the space from Tehuantepec to Da-
rien, constituting, in fact, but one isthmus, although
known by different names. On the highest peaks,
which have been. simply elevated by interior force,
marine shells of recent origin are frequently found.
The forces to which the formation is due, Colonel
Hughes supposes to have acted principally in two
different directions; the one uplifting the main con-
necting link of the two continents, and the other
elevating the transverse ridges. J'rom these axes
other diverging or radiating ridges have been thrown
out short distances in the direction of the lines of
least resistance. The valley of the Chagres can
scarcely be regarded strictly as one of denuda-
tion. It is probable that when this country was up-
heaved, there was no well defined outlet between >
the summit and the Atlantic, but that the secondary
ranges were connected with low narrow ridges, in
consequence of which a series of lakes were formed
by the first rains, at different levels, falling succes-
sively towards the ocean. The accumulation of the
water at last broke through these slight barriers, and,
‘in the natural course of things, reduced the outlet to
a nearly uniform plane, the highest of these lakes, at
a distance of forty-four miles from the ocean, having
been but fifty feet‘above it. The valley of the Cha-
gres has evidently been formed, noé by the deposi-

Le

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 41

tion of earthy substances from the river, but from
the decomposition of the rocky hills, (subsequently
mixed with vegetable matter,) and a long series of
abrasion from the downfall water.

CHAPTER V.

The Rivers of the Isthmus—The Rio Chagres and its Tributaries—The
Rio Grande—The Caimito—The city of Panama—Its present and
past State—Its Improvement—The Harbor—Porto Bello—Cha-
gres—Gorgona—Cruces~-Chorrera, etc.

Tue Rio Chagres is about one hundred miles
long, and, from Cruces down, varies from two hun-
dred to three hundred feet in width. For the first
half of its length it flows in a south-westerly direc-
tion, nearly parallel to the dividing ridge, to the
mouth of the Obispo, and then suddenly changing its
course toa few degrees west of north, follows it to the .
ocean. It abounds in sudden and abrupt turns, and
winds around the terminations: of the hills from side
to side, presenting to the eye of the traveller an ever
changing scene of the most gorgeous vegetation in
the world. Its most important tributaries are the
Obispo, Quebrada, Agua Salud, Trinidad, and Ga-
tun.

The Rio Grande is another large river of the Isth-
mus, which rises on the dividing ridge, and flows the
other way, emptying, near Panama, into the Pacific
ocean. The Caimito is also a considerable stream,
entering into a bay of the same name about twelve
miles to the south-west of Panama. A great number

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 43

of other rivers are found on the Isthmus, debauching
at short intervalsinto the Atlantic or Pacific oceans ;
but little, however, is known of them, unless we ac-
cept the imperfect details of contraband traders, who
have been upon the coast, or the statements of the
natives. It is abundantly proven, however, that
during the rainy season any amount of water-power
may be obtained in almost every part of the country,
for the purposes of manufactures.

The principal towns on the Isthmus, of any
interest, are Panama, Porto Bello, and Chagres,
Gatun, Gorgona, Cruces on the Chagres river,
and Chorrera in the valley of the Caimito. The
present city of Panama contains about ten thou-
sand inhabitants, and is by far the most impor-
tant place in the province. It is an ancient walled
town, and bears many prominent marks of its former
elegance, and even grandeur, but is now in a great
measure in a state of dilapidation and decay. It is
situated on an irregular point of land extending into
the bay, the waters of which wash it on three sides.
It was once a place of great importance and wealth,
but had for many years been going to ruin, until
within a short time a new spirit of enterprise has
been imparted to its inhabitants, and it is now fast
re-populating and re-building. Since the tide of
emigration has set towards California, this has been
made the most important place on the route, and
now—its lines of steamships, and a large number of
sailing craft, constantly arriving and departing from
its harbor, and its streets swarming with busy travel-

44. THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

lers from every quarter of the globe—it is no longer
the half-ruined and deserted city that it was a few
years ago, but re-kindled hfe and enterprise are al-
ready marking its onward progress to a better and
more permanent state of prosperity in the future.
The view seaward from the ramparts is most beauti-
ful. The usually calm and placid surface of the bay,
studded with islands clothed in the richest verdure of
the tropics, and bearing upon its bosom every species
of sailing craft, from a native bungo to the largest
class of merchant ships, and majestic steamers, it pre-
sents to the eye a scene unlike any other in the known
world, and scarcely less enchanting.

Unlike any other place on the Isthmus, Panama
is considered healthy, as it may well be supposed,
from the fact that its atmosphere is mostly from
the sea, and consequently devoid of the noxious ex-
halations of the back country, in a great measure.
Overflowing as it is with travellers, and a transient
population, and with imperfect municipal regula-
tions, the first impressions of the place are often any-
thing but agreeable, and particularly so from its ex-
treme filth, the streets being made the common re-
ceptacle of garbage and offal of every description,
which is allowed to decay or to be removed by swine
and buzzards, thatare left, unmolested, with the duty
of scavengers. One of the greatestdetriments to the
place is the deficiency of a supply of good water.
The inhabitants are now supplied principally from a
river three miles distant, the water being brought to
the city on mules.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 45

Porto Bello was the next place of importance, but
it has now sunk far beneath what Panama ever was,
without any hope of being again resuscitated. Its
population is about one thousand, and mostly ne-
groes. It was contemplated at one time to make this
place the northern terminus of the Panama Railroad,
but the route from here was found not to be a fea-
sible one, and consequently the idea was abandoned
for the much better location at Navy Bay.

The American town of Chagres, which les on the
west side of the river, may contain six or eight hun-
dred inhabitants. The place was built up to meet
the wants of the travelling public, and consequently
it is as temporary in its appearance as could be
imagined. With the opening of the port at Navy
Bay, it must necessarily be abandoned for the want
of support. Upon the opposite side, immediately
under and behind the high rocky point upon which is
built the fort of San Lorenzo, is situated the native
town of Chagres,which is little else than a collection of
miserable reed huts, thatched with palm-leaf. There
are a few, more respectable in appearance and com-
fortable, with earthen tiles, but all alike are without
floors. The walls are sometimes plastered over in a
rude way, but usually left open, and they have only
a mat suspended for a door. The houses are built
quite compactly, and in rows, not more than from
fifteen to twenty feet apart; and a walk through
these narrow streets, with the views inside, will be
likely to present some very novel spectacles to the
stranger. The little natives, of bothsexes, rurning

46 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

about, with their protuberant bellies perfectly naked,
certainly offers an odd sight for a Christian. This
place is said to contain one thousand inhabitants,
many of whom are Jamaica and Porto Bello negroes,
who have gone there for employment as boatmen.

Gatun, which lies upon the west bank of the
Chagres river, ten miles above Chagres, is of much
the same character. The population is variously esti-
mated from one to two thousand. Upon the oppo-
site shore, and a short distance below, is the railroad
station, known by the same name. This is the first
point at which the railroad touches the river, and is
but seven and a half miles from Navy Bay.

Gorgonais about forty miles from Chagres, in the
course of the stream, but probably not more than
half that distance in a straight line. This is made
the entrepot for goods in transit across the Isthmus
by the river. Between Gorgona and Panama, they
are conveyed by mules. There are two or three re-
spectable forwarding houses and hotels, 6wned by
Americans, who are always found courteous and at-
tentive to the wants of travellers. The population is
said to be about two thousand. Cruces is six miles
farther up, and was once a place of considerable im-
portance, it being at the head of river navigation and
on the paved road from Porto Bello to Panama.
During the rainy season the road is much better from
Panama to Cruces than to Gorgona, and consequent-
ly business is in a measure transferred to this place
while the rains continue, and boats go up without
much difficulty.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 47

Chorrera, lying in the valley of the Caimito,
west of Panama, is supposed to contain four thou-
sand inhabitants, and this part of the Isthmus is
probably more thickly settled than any other of the
same extent.- Many other places are laid down on
the maps, but they are of little importance.

CHAPTER V4.

The Forests of the Isthmus—Their primeval State—The Paims—=
Different Varieties—Their Characteristics—The Blossoms and the
Fruit—The various Products and their Uses—Indespensable to the
Natives.

One of the first things that attracts the attention
of travellers in this country, and perhaps impresses
them more vividly than any other, is the deep, solemn
beauty of the forests. Until recently, the whole
length and breadth of the Isthmus, with but few and
slight exceptions, has remained the same gorgeous |
“wild-wood” of huge trees and thickly interwoven
jungles that characterized it when first discovered
by the Spaniards; and Nature, in all her gran-
deur, unbroken and undisturbed by the hand of man,
has reigned supreme throughout its whole extent.
But thanks to American progress, which seems
destined to leave no part of this continent without its
iron track, the woodman’s ax has resounded already
through its wild savannas and deep vallies, borne
on by the strong arm of enduring enterprise; and
it is to be hoped that its sound will never cease, until
the sun’s light shall fall upon the soil that has so
long been shadowed over by these dense woods,

LL

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 49

and the light of civilization and intelligence shall
break in upon the moral darkness that has hitherto
hung over their people, and kept them in the pro-
foundest ignorance and superstition.

That most beautiful of all trees, which is peculiar
to the inter-tropical landscape, the Palm, is found
here in a great number of its varieties, from the
humble plant, so much used in the manufacture of
hats, to the Palma Real, which grows to the height
of one hundred and twenty feet, and is one of the
most majestic and beautiful of the natural produc-
tions of the earth. The Cocoanut Palm is far infe-
rior in appearance. It is not so large, and its trunk
is more or less curved, especially near the ground ;
but with its clusters of fruit, in every stage of matu-
rity, it is a marked example in nature of unpretend-
ing utility, contrasting widely with its fellow, the
Palma Real, of towering beauty, but comparative
unproductiveness.

There area great many varieties of this most inter-
esting class, variously’ estimated from one hundred
and ninety to near a thousand, and it is supposed that
there are some not yet described. Several varieties
are common upon the Isthmus, but they vary much
in different districts. The Palma Real is not seen
in crossing the country, until arriving at Barbacoa ;
while the Cocoanut is found upon the coast, and
again at Gorgona, but most frequently near the sea
shore, where it grows in great abundance.

The great characteristic of the Palm is its man-
ner of growth, or, technically, it is endogenous. The

50 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

circulation is carried on in the centre of the stem,
instead of near the surface, as sap, as in our northern
trees. The largest palms have no distinct bark that
can be separated, nor have they branches, but com-
mence their growth like a common plant. The root
of the leaf first encircles the stalk near the ground ;
within this shoots out another above the first, which
it crowds out, and dying, it drops off, and thus every
new leaf adds to the length of the trunk. Only a
few leaves remain, which are always at the top of the
tree; and on some of the palms, these facets, or
scars, where the leaves separated, may be distinctly
seen after it has attained a great size. The Palma
Real is marked by rings, the root of the leaf encir-
cling the trunk for some feet up before it becomes
pinnated, and extends off; this part being of a bright
green, is one of the great beauties of the tree. The
leaves of the larger Palms are all pinnated, or fea-
ther-like—a central stem with two rows of narrow
leaves on each side. These leaves are often twenty
feet long, and the natives split them, leaving a row
of the leaflets on each half; and these they bind on
the roofs of their houses, commencing at the lower
part, letting the leaflets overlap each other, and they
form a very perfect and durable covering. The
palm from which these thatches are obtained, never
grows to a great height, and the dead leaves adhere
to the trunk nearly to the ground, giving it a scrubby
appearance; while the long leaves at the top shoot
out and curve over in a very graceful manner, like
the Palma Real and other varieties.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 51

All, or nearly all, of the large Palms bear fruit,
which varies more in its character than does the tree
in appearance. It is usually clustered, and. hangs
around the body of the tree beneath the roots of the
leaves. The Palma Real, Date Palm, and many
others, are very beautiful in this respect, the fruit
varying from the size of a blackberry to a lime,
usually—the Cocoanut being an exception. I ob-
served some through all their stages of growth,
from the blossom to the ripe fruit. An enormous
spatha shoots out, and opening, develops an im-
mense number of little white blossoms; these soon
fall to the ground, covering it for some yards per-
fectly white. The fruit of some would be first green,
and then yellow; afterwards, when ripe, it would be
red, and hang in clusters of several hundred, in the
form of an inverted cone, suspended by a single
stem. This fruit is a miniature cocoanut, about the
size of a medium lime, with its outside shuck, hard
shell, and meat. It is eaten eagerly by wild and
domestic hogs. |

The Date Palm and some others are supposed to
contain in one cluster from 12,000 to 600,000 flowers.
The trunk of the variety above described is not usu-
ally over eight or ten inches thick, but often fifty or
sixty feet high, and covered with sharp prickles.

A. variety presenting a very peculiar appearance,
supported upon aerial roots, is common upon the
Isthmus. The trunk is straight and slim, and sup-
ported six or eight feet from the ground, by roots
that stand out in every direction, and from two to

52 THE ISTHM[PS OF PANAMA.

three inches thick, and covered with sharp thorns.
These roots shoot out in a direct course towards the
ground, and increase in number according to the
growth of the tree, and the consequent necessity of
additional strength. J discovered one of these roots
when its point had but just entered the ground. It
was lighter colored than the older ones, although
equal in bulk, but pithy and full of sap. With little
effort I broke it from the parent trunk, to which it
soon would have contributed its support. So sharp
and strong are the thorns on these roots, that the na-
tives use them for graters.

_ Dr. Rawley, who spent some time in New Grena-
da, says, that on the Magdalena, a palm plant is very
common, which produces an immense fruit, or cluster
of seeds, from which the natives extract, by compres-
sion, three different kinds of oil. The plant has
a long lanceolate leaf, and grows sometimes in the .
crotches of trees where moss and dirt has accumula-
ted, but usually in the ground. The fruit, when ripe,
is red, and appears an aggregation of distinct seed
or nuts. These are broken and then pressed. One
oilis red, containing the coloring matter of the fruit,
and is used in cooking, dressing meats, and to burn ;
another from the same plant is used for the hair,
while the third quality is employed medicinally.

It is said that the natives can subsist alone upon
the various products of the family of palms, which
also supply them with a variety of luxuries. ‘‘ Wine,
oil, wax, flour, sugar, and salt,” says Humboldt,
‘ are the produce of this tribe ;” towhich Von Mar-

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 53

tius adds, “thread, weapons, utensils, food and habi-
tations.” The most remarkable is the Cocoanut.
The root is sometimes masticated, and of the small
fibres baskets are made. The hard case of the stem
is made into drums, and used in the construction of
huts. The base of the leaf of the Palma Real is made
into cradles, and from the fibres they make cloth.
The unexpanded terminal bud is a delicate article of
food; the leaves furnish thatches for habitations and
materials for fences, buckets and baskets. ‘The mid-
rib of the leaf serves for oars, the juice of the stem
and flower ‘“‘is replete with sugar ; and is fermented
into an excellent wine, or distilled into a sort of
spirit called arrack.” The Cocoanut alone furnishes
food, a nourishing drink, and the shell makes a dur-
able cup. ‘The juice which flows from the wound-
ed spathas of several varieties, is not only grateful as
a beverage, but it is found the surest and safest re-
medy for constipation of the bowels, especially in
delicate females.” The finest Sago is prepared from
the pith of some varieties of the palm, which yield
from six to eight hundred pounds the single tree.
The tough, hard fibres are also used to a considerable
extent for making brooms, under the name of vegeta-
ble bristles. A beautiful material, called vegetable
ivory, is obtained from a palm that grows upon the
Magdalena. The tree which produces it is near
the size of the Cocoanut, and resembles it. ‘he
fruit is about as large as an orange, and covered with
a thick rough shuck ; it is at first a clear fluid, and
sometimes drank, but afterwards becomes white and

54 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

more consistent, with a sweet taste, and ultimately
perfectly solid, heavy and white as ivory. Itsoftens
under water, but becomes hard on being removed ;
it is used for various ornaments, toys, cane-heads,
&c. The wood of the different palms is useful for
many purposes, and is extensively used for walking-
sticks, umbrella-staffs, and various other articles.
The palm oil may be extensively obtained, and it
not only burns well, but the odor of it is more
agreeable than otherwise; in fact, the various uses
to which the products of the palm have been appro-
priated are almostinnumerable. Yet it is not to be
supposed that any very great variety of them will
be observed at any one place, and especially not on
the Isthmus of Panama, although it is there almost
indispensable to the natives’ subsistence and comfort.

CHAPTER VII.

The Forests—Gorgeous Vegetation—A peculiar Tree—The Cedro—
Native Bungoes—Different Timbers of the Isthmus——The India Rub-
ber Tree—Method of collecting and preparing the Gum—The Milk
Tree—The Calabash Tree--Objectional Feature of the Isthmus
Forests.

AxtnoucH the palms may be considered one of the
most distinguished features of the Isthmus forests, yet
they are but one of the many trees which consti-
tute the wood growth of this.country. The different
kinds or species are seemingly innumerable; so
much so, that one would readily immagine himself
placed in the midst of a vast collection of the vege-
table kingdom from all nations, so thickly are they
congregated, and so widely differmg in appearance.
Beside the giant of the forest, two or three centu-
ries old, and measuring in circumference thirty-
five and sometimes sixty feet, will be found the
spindling trunk, not more than two or three inches
thick, yet stretching away to a height altogether out
of proportion to its size, to reach the sunlight which
occasionally comes shimmering down through the
green canopy above, in bright streams to entice it on
its way. Nor is this all; each sturdy trunk will

56 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

be made to bear some parasite or creeping vine,
that, having climbed to its topmost height, will shoot
off branches earthward, that will hang like cords,
suspended in mid air, until reaching the ground, to
takeroot. ‘These vines sometimes so encircle a trunk,
that it dies, strangled apparently by that which it
had supported, and finally, rotting away, it will fall
with its burthen, and crumbling to dust, leave a hol-
low cylinder of interlacing strans.

Countless numbers of parasite plants will be seen
clinging to the barks, or around the branches and in
their angles, bearing most beautiful blossoms; and
thus each tree not only appears in its richest verdure,
and perhaps in gorgeous bloom, but decorated with
innumerable other specimens of the Great Artist’s
handiwork, in this grandest of all his exhibitions
in the world.

One of the most peculiar trees of the Isthmus,
and one that is often found growing to a great size,
is that so strongly sustained in its position by planes,
thrown out from twenty feet or more up the trunk,
which become rooted in the ground at perhaps an
equal distance, thus bracing it on every side against
the violence of winds or the gravity of its own great
bulk. Two or three varieties of the mahogany tree,
and a cedro or cedar, from which the natives
usually make their canoes, are among those most
commonly seen; they both grow to a great size, es-
pecially the cedro. Large boats, called bungoes,
from forty to fifty feet long and of several tuns bur-
then, are made from a single tree. They are very

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. BY

good sea boats, and rigged with sails; the natives
often go between Porto Bello, Navy Bay, and
Chagres, with them. Mr. Stephens has given an in-
teresting account of a trip he made, of several days’
duration, along the coast of Yucatan, in one of these
vessels, and I have been creditably informed that a
steam engine was put in one at EAB, and it oper-
ated well.

The most reliable account of the timbers of the
Isthmus and their practical utility, is from the pen
of Wm. H. Sidell, Esq., who was at one time an
engineer on the Panama Railroad. He took great
pains to inform himself from persons of experience,
who had been several years in the country. Of the
timbers of the Isthmus, Mr. Sidell says:

“Jt will be seen that the names are nearly all lo-
eal, and there is so little similarity to the woods with
whith we are accustomed, that I cannot attempt to
_ classify them with our timbers.

“ Guachapale.—Is a large tree found in abund-
ance; the timber has something the appearance of
oak, and is durable under ground.

“ Macane or Cactque.—Is a crooked tree, and
generally of middle size, though sometimes large.
It does not readily decay under ground or in the
water. Stakes driven fifteen years since, and washed
alternately by salt and fresh water, show no signs
of change. Lspino Amarillo—ts not very abund-
ant. ie. good for constructions in water. The wood
is of yellowish color, straight grained and easy to
work ; it is of light weiglit and not liable to decay,

* 2

58 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

or to the attacks of insects. There are seven kinds of
amarillo, all of which are considered good timber.

“ Cedro Lspino.—This is a large tree, the trunk
straight and the timber not heavy. ‘The heart-wood
alone is good, and this stands well in the open air,
or under ground, as well as in interiors. It is the
kind commonly used on the Isthmus in making
boards. Cedro Cebolla.—Large tree, rather crooked;
in other respects similar to the espino. The curate
of a village on the Isthmus assured Mr. Hutardo,
that the trunk of a fallen tree, lying partly in the
water, had been used by his people as a bridge from
time immemorial.

“ Cedro Amargo.—Is a large tree, easy to work,
and stands well in the open air. WVispero—ls a
large tree and not easy to work; stands well when
not exposed to sun and rain. Insects do not touch
it, but it is hable to rot if exposed to the inclemency
of the weather. It is esteemed for its resistance to
transverse action. There are several varieties,
amongst which the Wespero real and Wispero de
Montana are most esteemed. The sapadillo is said
to be identical with the nispero, and there are fre-
quent instances of the great durability of this wood.
At the castle of San Lorenzo, near Chagres, and
amongst the old works at Porto Bello, are great quan-
tities, which have endured, under various circum-
stances of exposure, for half a century and over.
The timber resembles the cherry of the North—
about the same color, hardness, and weight. It is
quite straight grained and a very fine timber.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 59

“ Quira.—Very fine wood, tree large, timber
hard, heavy, and difficult to work; resists friction.
It is much used. Guayacan.—Large tree, hard,
heavy and difficult to work, but very strong; is much
employed in building. If left on the ground and ex-
posed to the open air, it petrifies, becoming a silict-
ous stone, retaining the appearance of wood. The
conditions on which this petrifaction depends are
unknown. The figures of the apostles, which are in
front of the cathedral at Panama, are of this wood.
They are not less than from 35 to 40 years old. It
is the same wood known to us by the name of lignum
vitee.

“ Algarobo.—Is a large tree, hard and heavy
wood, of red color. If properly seasoned, it lasts
many years, exposed to the inclemency of the
weather; itis very abundant. Jlangle Caballero. —
This wood is considered as good as nispero 3 it grows
generally near the water’s edge, is found in great
abundance, and will give pieces from 35 to 40 feet
long, and a foot square. -Alcornoque.—(Cork-tree.)
A very large tree ; will give large beams, and wears
well. dAfal-vicino—tIs so named by the natives,
from its extreme hardness and great size. The color
of the wood is yellow. Itis found in abundance,
and, as it wears well, it is much employed in build-
ing, notwithstanding the great expense of cutting.

“ Caoba.—Trees very large, wood not heavy, and
easy to work; stands well-under a roof. If not pro-
perly seasoned it becomes brittle; for this reason
carpenters object to its use; it is mahogany.

60 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

“Leoble.—Trees large, wood light, and easy to work ;
stands well in the open air. On the whole, it may
be considered a good wood. There are two varie-
ties, one of which is not much esteemed. Corotu.—
Very large tree, light wood ; used for making canoes ;
not good for general purposes. Cedro Bueno and
Cedro Passaya.—Are cedars, but the least esteemed
of the species. They are, however, sometimes used.
Cubo—Mora— Cop?.—These trees are abundant, but
useless for the purposes of construction. Quepo.—
The laurel, however, is tough and elastic, and, when
dry, is used for masts.

Torro—Cocobollo—Nazareno—Narangito-—To-
tuna.—tThe first three woods named are very beauti-
ful, and are used in cabinet-making. The narangito
and totuna are fine, strong woods, fit for the purposes
of the wheelwright. Totuna is white, and resembles
hickory ; mortices made in it never split. The tree,
however, is small and of irregular growth. Cano
LBlanco——This cane, cut open and cleared of the
loose fibres, furnishes the cheapest and the best
known lathing in the country. Under a roof, if pro-
perly seasoned, it will stand 30 or 40 years without
injury. “spabé.—lIs never used, although it is very
abundant and the trees grow to a great size. A Mr.
McGregor once erected a saw-mill, and cut great
quantities of plank from espabé, but it was a failure,
as no one would use them.

“ Algagia — Nispero — Nazareno — Madrona de
Montano-—-Amarillo de Guayquil_—aAll these woods
are much esteemed, because they can be safely made

Sn
a

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 61

use of while the tree is still young, and measuring
but five inches square.

‘Tt is the universal opinion of the country, that
the quality of the timber is influenced by the time

_ of cutting, in regard to the age of the moon; and as

the same opinion is prevalent in our own country, and
in Europe, although regarded by engineers as falla-
cious, I will give the strongly expressed ideas of
Senor H on the subject:

“< Jt is a fact, within my own observation, that no
wood should be cut before the moon is full. I paid
little attention to this popular belief until I found, by
experience, that such was really the case. Insects
will attack wood that will not be touched by them if
cut after the full moon. This is very evident, if the
wood is of a light and spongy nature. Some vege-
table productions will prove this in a most striking
manner, thus. If our common thatch be gathered
under a new moon, it will rot in a few months, and
be attacked by worms; while it will last from fifteen
to twenty years, if gathered atthe full moon. Those
who many years ago built houses in this country, are
now most particular in selecting their woods after
this manner.’ ”

Two varieties of the manzanilla, or manchineel of
Lindley, the india rubber and the palo de vaca, or
cow tree, so particularly described by Humboldt,
are to be found here, but to no very great extent.
They all belong to the same order, and include the
bread fruit and famous upas. Each discharges,
when cut into, a white fluid; the india rubber, or

62 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

caoufchouc and palo de vaca being the most re-
markable.

The india rubber, which has become so impor-
tant an article in the Arts, and of domestic use, is
obtained by tapping the tree, much as the maple is
in New England. The juice issues, of a white, creamy
consistence, and, when designed for exportation
in the crude state, it is poured into long troughs,
where the elastic particles arise to the surface, leay-
ing a dark aqueous fluid beneath. In this way the
india rubber becomes sufficiently hard to be taken
off in thick sheets. When converted into any parti-
cular shape, as shoes, bottles, etc., as it usually is by
the natives, they prepare the moulds by smearing
them with clay, and being furnished with handles,
they are dipped into the liquid india rubber, and
then held in the smoke over a fire of oily palm nuts,
to dry, and become black. This process is repeated
until the desired thickness is acquired, and then they
are exposed in the sun to harden.

The milk tree, | am disposed to think, 1s not
very common, yet there can be no reasonable doubt
of its existence. Humboldt describes it as yielding
a large quantity of delicious milk, equal in quality,
and possessing many of the characteristics of cows’
milk, and says,‘ It is at the rising of the sun, this
vegetable fountain is most abundant; the blacks and
natives are then seen hastening from all quarters,
with large bowls to receive the milk, which grows
yellow and thickens at the surface.”

Lindley confirms this marvellous account, and

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 63

says that it has been analyzed by a number of Che-
mists and found to contain 80.57 per cent. of galactin.
Capt. Charles Cochrane, of the Royal Navy, and Dr.
Webster, surgeon of an English sloop, have both
described this tree, and speak of it in nearly the same
terms.

The manchineel is of two varieties, one of which
is poison. It is common onthe island of Manzanilla.

The calabash tree is quite common. It is about
the size of a peach tree, and presents a peculiar ap-
pearance, with its enormous green, shining fruit,
which often hangs from the extreme end of a limb,
bending it towards the ground. Mangroves usually
grow along the coast, forming an almost impassible
barrier. The principal trunk often hes horizontal,

giving off aerial branches with bulbous extremities,

which take root in the muddy soil beneath, and thus
extend along to a great extent, like the banyan tree.
From the number of valuable timbers above des-
cribed, it would seem that there could have been no
necessity for exporting piles and crossties for the
Panama Railroad, yet it has been done. Whatever
may be said of the forests of the Isthmus, there is no
timber which can ever supply the place of the
northern pine and cedar; which are accessible in
great numbers, from a small surface; while on the
Isthmus it would seem that the greatest possible va-
riety were crowded into a given space, and, conse-
quently, such timbers as are valuable are more or
less scattered. |

CHAPTER VIIL

Agricultura] prospects of the Isthmus—its Natural Produetions-——Cot-
ton—-Sugar-Cane—-Tebaeco—Plantains, Bananas and their Culti-
vation—Fruits-—Chirimeyers—-Pine Apples—Alligator Pears and
others—Medicinal Products-—-The Natives’ Antidote for Snake
Poison——Castor Oil Plant—Ipeecacuanha, Sarsaparilla, &e.

Ir is not much likely that the Isthmus of Pan-
ama will immediately become, to any very great ex.
tent, an agricultural district; yet, probably, nowhere
would the earth yield a greater variety of her useful
products than here. Nor is it hardly possible that
greater inducements could be presented to the culti-
vators of the soil than are now offered on this Isth-
mus, not only from the present and increasing
demand for such products, but from the bountiful
harvest that could be obtained from the richly pro-
ductive soil. It will take a long time before the
public will view this little neck of land in any other
light than a very objectionable portion of the earth,
to get over” on the way to California; yet it is
worthy of a much more general consideration.

Of the agricultural productions of this country
but little can be said, for but little is known about
them, and that little, many times, is vague and un-

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 65

certain. It is said that wheat will grow well in the
high lands, yet few experiments have ever been tried
with it; but corn is well known to produce abund-
antly, and with so little labor that the natives make
it one of their chief crops, and its easy growth re-
quires no better evidence of the fact. Rice grows
well in the lowlands, but is not much cultivated.
Cotton and sugar-cane are sometimes to be seen in
the native rosas, but not often. Up the Magdalena
river, tobacco is produced quite extensively, and it
grows thrifty on the Isthmus, but it can never be of
good quality without a better system of cultivation
than it has ever had here. Ooffee and cocoa are
both grown to some extent, and so are yams and
sweet potatoes; but the natives are so indolent that
they seldom take the trouble to plant them. Yams
are brought to the Chagres market from Carthagena,
in considerable quantities. Plantains and bananas
are not only the easiest grown, but they yield the
greatestamount of valuable fruit of any known vege-
table production. ‘The plant is very beautiful, with its
broad, green leaves, the roots of which clasp the stalk,
reaching to the ground. ach leaf, as it shoots out,
is a closely rolled cylinder, pointing directly up-
wards until it unrolls, when it gracefully bends to
one side. The stem of the fruit is the termination
of the stalk, which expands and finally bending over,
the flowers are developed in rows around it, suc-
ceeding each other gradually, from the base to the
apex, which by this time usually hangs directly

down; and as the fruit is developed, it turns up and
Ax

66 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

back towards the stem. Maintain the stem in its
natural position, and the fruit would point up to-
wards the apex of the cluster, instead of turning
back as we always see them. A bunch of bananas
will weigh from twenty-five to fifty pounds, and four
crops may be grown in a year; so that at least a hun-
dred pounds of fruit is yielded by a single plant, an-
nually. When the head of the banana is fully grown,
it should be cut off and hung away to ripen; while
the stalk must be cut off close to the ground, that it
may sprout out anew, or else the root will die.
Plantains resemble bananas so faithfully that they
are not always readily distinguished, yet they are
not either as palatable or wholesome, unless boiled,
baked or fried, which are the usual methods of cook-
ing them. |

Several varieties of beans, are grown to some
extent, as well as peas, squashes, and other vegetables
of the same character. A species of agave, called
peta, furnishes a very strong fibre for cordage. It is
of this that the net hammocks are usually made,
and I am told that it is very abundant in some parts
of the country.

In no place can the delicate fruits be more easily
produced, nor in greater variety. Besides such as
we have already described, the orange, lemon, lime,
pine-apple and mango are found growing wild, in
small quantities, or more abundant even under the
indifferent cultivation of the natives. Sapotes, gua-
vas, and the delicious chirimoyer also grow wild
throughout the forests. The chirimoyers are of two

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 67

kinds; the one is sweet, while the other, and much the
larger, is pleasantly sour. The sweet variety is
about the size of a large orange, and so like a cus-
tard that it is called the custard apple; the other, or
sour fruit, is as large as a quart cup, elongated,
green, and quite rough on the surface. Their sub-
stance-is so delicate that. it 1s most conveniently
eaten with a spoon.

The alligator pear is another very delicious fruit,
very common in the market of Panama; indeed,
there is seemingly no end to the various different
productions of this class, which grow spontaneously,
or may be produced with Little labor; yet they are
now found but in limited quantities, so much so
that it has been doubted by some who have been
upon the Isthmus that they existed there. Nearly
all [ have so far mentioned have come under my
observation, and many not here mentioned have
still been spoken of by others. All the soil of this
country wants, is cultivation, to make it the garden
of the world; this is evident from the great variety
and gorgeous character of vegetable life every
where to be seen.

The medicinal products alone are a numerous
and valuable class; yet they cannot be considered
but in a limited extent, known.

The great remedy, or antidote, for the bite of
venomous reptiles, (semaruba cedron,) which has re-
cently attracted so much attention in Europe, was
first discovered on this Isthmus, and has been for a
long time in use among the natives. The seeds are

68 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

first scraped and then macerated in spirit, with
which the wound is to be washed, and the scrapings
bound on to it. The dry powder sprinkled into the
wound would probably be quite as effectual. The
natives hold this article in high estimation, and are
seldom without it. The castor oil plant (olewm rici-
nus,) grows along the banks of the Chagres river,
and probably throughout the country. The natives
extract the oil for domestic use. Ipecacuanha is
found abundant on the Magdalena, and probably it
is indigenous on the Isthmus; also, several varieties
of the cinchona, but they are said to yield but a very
small per cent. of quinine, on which its virtues de-
pend. The Mendingo Indians gather large quanti-
ties of fustic and other dye woods, which they dis-
pose of to contraband vessels, and therefore no
account is rendered of their exportation. The va-
nilla bean grows here, but it is said not to be of the
— best quality; probably it has never yet been pro-
perly cured.

The Valiente Indians gather large quantities of
sarsaparilla trom the savannas of Costa Rica, and
of excellent quality.

CTA PTER EX.

The Inhabitants of the Isthmus—What Nature has done for them—
Their Food—Clothing—Means for travelling—Mestizoes—Their
Character—Distinction from the Boatmen-——Sas Blas Indians—Men-
dingoes—-Their jealousy of Foreigners~-Their Productions and Trade
——Their method of catching Fish and removing the shells from Tur-
tles—The Landholders and their Landmarks—Rosas—Native Ho-
tels— Dress of the Women~-Smoking——Their Children—Their Ideas
of the Future.

Propasty no class of mankind are more perfectly
satisfied with themselves, and contented in their situa-
tion, than the native inhabitants of this country.
Nature has lavished upon them some of her richest
gifts; has given them a climate of constant summer,
thus enabling them to adopt the simplest habits of
life ; and not only planted, but rears and ripens, un-
aided, some of her choicest productions for their use.
So bountifully are these people provided for, in this
way, that they seem to be altogether free from any
care for the future ; and thus relieved so entirely from
that powerful and necessary incentive to action—
seli-preservation, they lead a life of listless indiffe-
rence, emphatically the spoiled children of a too in-
dulgent parent.

70 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

A. few days’ work will enable them to erect a
house that will last many years, and one that they
prefer toany other. A few dollars will supply wear-
ing apparel for each person a year; as if consists, at
the best, of little more than a pair of light trowsers,
a calico or flannel shirt, and a palm-leaf hat. . To
obtain food, they have but to set their nets in the
rivers to catch excellent fish, or kill an ox and im-
mediately cut it into strings that it may dry and be-
come “jerked beef,” which will last months ; or pick
bananas and plantains, which are usually found grow-
ing about their habitations, and these, with a few
others, will suffice for all their wants in this respect.
If they wish to travel, they have but to fall a tree
upon the bank of a stream, and hew it out, and they
have a vessel with which they can not only traverse
numerous rivers, but may go from port to port upon
the coast. With a grass mat for a bed, an extra
shirt, a net satchel for their pipe, tobacco, tinder box,
and a few other articles, but more than all else a _
macheté, and they are prepared to journey for any
time. Such is then, briefly, the present condition and
habits of the provincial population of the Isthmus
of Panama.

The aboriginal inhabitants were Indians, and
there are distinct tribes of them who maintain their
independence to this day; but in all those places
where the Spanish made settlements, they were sub-
dued, and finally, with the remnant of their con-
querors, they have become so intermingled, that they
now constitute a distinct class, called Mestizoes.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 71

They retain the Spanish dialect, but speak it, how-
ever, imperfectly, it being more or less confounded
with provincialisms. In their habits they are peace-
able, inoffensive and hospitable, although on all tho-
roughfares they soon become distrustful of Ameri-
cans, from the manner in which they are often treated ;
no distinction being made between them and the
class of boatmen and porters one is usually obliged
to contend with, who travels between Chagres and
Panama; the last being principally from Jamaica
and other places, either negroes or a mixture of ne-
gro and Indian blood. These are mostly a set of
despicable vagabonds, and deserve neither kindness
nor forbearance. The qualification they most esteem
is an ability to cheat ; in acontract, they are obedient
in promises, but when once they have shoved their
boat from shore, they claim the right of exemption
from engagements made on land, and treat with
dogged insolence any attempt to urge them from
their purposes. |

Lhe San Blas Indians, who occupy the country
bordering on the bay of that name, were never subject
to the Spaniards, and entertain towards them a most
inveterate hatred to this day. As might be expected,
they are exceedingly jealous of their independence,
and will allow no European to cross their country,
or settle upon it. This arises from the tradition of
former Spanish aggressions; and, esteeming their
country as an especiaily favored part of the world,
they are ready to suspect from any who visit their
coast, a design for their extermination. The Men-

72 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

dingo river enters this bay, at the mouth of which
there is an Indian settlement, and the inhabitants
are consequently known by that name also. They
are a hardy and somewhat active race of people, with
rather broad chests and low foreheads, giving them
an ugly expression. They are very careful of
their women, for whom they provide liberally, giv- |
ing each wife a separate house to live in, when they
have more than one, which is frequently the case.
This has been considered the ground of their objec-
tion to Europeans, as they are known to be opposed
to the improvement of the species by mixed blood.
The women are said to be modest and amiable, but
as they are never without a watchful eye over them,
it is difficult to judge of their virtues. Their com-
plexions are usually clearer,and they are otherwise
better looking than the males, especially when
young. The native costume consists of a cotton
skirt or wrapper, of their own manufacture, and usu-
ally colored with blue, reaching from their shoulders
to a little below the calf of the leg, and a piece of
the same thrown over their heads, reaching below the
breasts. They are very fond of ornaments, such as
ear-rings, necklaces and wristlets of coral or beads,
and sometimes they wear rings in their noses. The
hair islong and black, and usually fastened upon
the tops of their heads, or braided and left to hang
down their backs. :

Ornaments and various articles of dress are now
obtained to a considerable extent from coasting ves-
sels that visit them to exchange such goods for fustie,

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 43

sarsaparilla root, turtle shells, and some of the more
expensive woods. Their trade is usually carried on
at one of the islands or keys in thé bay, to which
they convey their articles of exchange. Hogs, fowls,
turtles, and the usual variety of tropical fruits are
to be obtained here in considerable quantities. These
people often visit Navy Bay and Chagres with these
articles to sell. | :
Spanish vessels usually keep clear from this coast,
for it is well known that no quarter would be given
them if they should fall into the hands of the Men-
dingoes. Indian corn, plantains, bananas, cassava,
and other articles for domestic use, are grown. by
them. The men cut the trees, excepting always
the cocoanut, and partially clear the ground, while
the women and children plant or sow, and cultivate
the crop. After the first harvest they set fire to the
dry stocks, which burn with the fallen trees, leaving
the ground without obstruction for a future use.
Fishing is followed as an occupation, tosome extent ;
large fish are often shot in shallow water, with ar-
rows. The turtlesare of excellent quality, and in
great quantities. The hawk’s-bill turtle is taken
alive, and a fire kindled upon its back, which is al-
lowed to burn until the pieces may be easily removed,
care being taken not to allow too much heat, lest it
spoilthe shell. It is said that this treatment is some-
times survived, and that the shell is reproduced in
one continuous piece over the whole back.
In the vicinity of the Chagres river, many of
the natives own large tracts of land, but with very

TA THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA:

indefinite boundaries. A native named Sipreon,
at Bujio Soldado, claims all that can be seen from
the top of a large tree near his premises, although it
would be utterly impossible for any one to attain
that position in order to ascertain the extent of his
possessions. These landholders usually have a rosa,
or plantation back from the river, where they grow .
sugar-cane, Indian corn or maize, plantains, bananas
and the other fruits and vegetables for their own
consumption, and to sell on the river; many of them
entertain boatmen, or whoever else may -find it ne-
cessary to obtain such food or shelter as they pro-
vide.

From what. has already been said, it will be
evident that the habits of these people are irregular
and indolent. Of their sports, the fandango is by
far the most common; and they sometimes go a
great distance to attend this nightly revel. Hunting
and fishing are occasionally resorted to for pastime
or profit; but the last is practiced but little in the
interior, although the rivers abound in excellent
fish.

The women wear a dress usually made from
calico, gathered about the neck, and with flounces
near the bottom; the neck of it, however, is often
unloosed and turned down to the waist, leaving the
shoulders covered only by the chemise. ‘The palm-
leaf hat is.also worn by them, while their feet are
generally naked, although sometimes they wear
shoes, but no stockings. Smoking is an almost con-
stant habit with them, as well as with the men, be-

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 715

ing the first thing in the morning, and last at night.
Lhe cigar is principally used; which is made by the
women, and very mild.

The mothers seem fond of their children, and
manage to raise great numbers of them; the young-
est one is usually found resting on its mother’s hip,
with its legs clasping her waist, and supported there
by the arm carried behind its back; while the
older members of the group are usually occupied
with holding their great toes. They manifest, as
a class, but very little interest in improvements, and
evidently consider a life of indolence the happiest,
and have little idea of freedom, except in the per-
mission to do as they please.

The Spanish descendants and Mestizoes of the
Isthmus profess to be Catholics; but they have very
limited ideas of a future state, as well as of this,
and are apparently as indifferent as they are igno-

rant. When sick, they bear it without a murmur,
if free from pain; and if they expect to die, they

require to be dressed in their best apparel, possibly
with the idea of appearing as respectable as pos-
sible in another world, where they all expect to be
much happier, and more generously provided for,
than here.

CHARI TLE Rox.

The Domestic Animals— Cows—Horses — Mules—Hogs— Fowls—
Dogs— Wild Animals—Monkeys— Wild Hogs-—-The Tapir, Oce-
lot, Jaguar, Bears, &c.—Birds and their Habits-—-The Toucon—
The Parrot Tribe--The Scarlet Macaw--Humming Birds and
their Habits-——Aquatic Birds—Reptiles-—Alligators, Boa Constric-
tors, Ignanos, &c.

Tur domestic animals of the Isthmus are horned
cattle, horses, mules, hogs, and fowls. The. cattle
herds are quite numerous; every native who owns
land keeps a drove of sometimes fifty or a hundred,
which they value at forty or fifty dollars a head,
their currency, being equal to thirty-two and forty
dollars our money. They are smaller than the aver-
age of North American cattle, but hardy looking,
and tough beyond a question, even after having been
subjected to the usual processes of cooking. The
natives seldom ever milk their cows, and when they
do, it will be so irregularly that they soon cease to
afford milk sufficient to reward them for the trouble.

The horses are small but enduring, and often of
avery perfect figure. They are not numerous, as
mules are principally used. Neither are kept to any
great extent, except between Gorgona and Panama,

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. TT

where mules are used altogether for crossing the
mountains on that route.

The hog seems to be a favorite animal among
these people, and the filthy grunters are found at al-

most every ranch. ‘They are a long nosed, ugly

looking beast, but require no care, as they find an
abundant subsistence from the various nuts and veg-
etables in the woods.

Chickens are raised to a considerable extent, and
their eggs are highly prized ; at least I have known
two dimes to be charged a piece for them, although
the usual price is but a medio.

I must not forget to mention that faithful follow-
er of man, the dog, in this connection, although not
always a very agreeable companion. Several va-
rities of the species are common on the Isthmus, and
they are great favorites with their masters, who al-
low them to share equally with them in household

privileges.

The monkey is by far the most conspicuous
among the wild beasts that inhabit the whole range
of the dense forests of the Isthmus. Every Stes
their hideous howlings are to be heard, especially at
night fall, or immediately preceding rain. There
are many different varieties, and a large, black,
bushy -headed kind, quite common, will roar like
a lion, and is often taken for that animal, at
first sight, by strangers. These animals present as
differing physiognomies as men, and vary as widely
in color; some black, some red, while others are
quite light complexioned, and 1 have no doubt far

18 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

more respectable monkeys than their colored breth-
ren of the forest. The red kind are said to be the
most noisy, but from the serenades we were favored
with, I should judge that it took all classes to make
the nights so hideous.

Two kinds of wild hogs are occasional: to be
found; one with a long snout, and having two large
tusks projecting from ihe lower jaw, which renders
them very ugly looking, but otherwise not differing
much from the common domestic animal. The other
is shorter and of a gray color, with its bristles or long
coarse hair standing out, giving it a scrubby appear-
‘ance. The flesh of the last is particularly esteemed
by the natives.

The tapir is a solitary animal, intermediate be-
tween a hog and a hippopotamus, both of which it
in some respects resembles. It is sometimes called
the hippopotamus of the New World, being like that
animal, not only in appearance but in its disposition
and habits, although not larger than a small cow.
One was killed at Bujio Soldado, and its flesh was
found equal in quality to the native beef. It has a
long slender nose, forming a sort of probocis capable
of voluntary contraction and extension. It is inoffen-
sive and timid, fleeing from, rather than resisting
danger. Itsleeps during the day, and feeds at night,
wholly on vegetables; its skin is very thick, and
when dried will resist an arrow, and is used by the
natives to make sandals. ‘The ocelot, jaguar, bear,
and deer, are said to be occasionally seen, but they
are byno means common. Sloths and several species

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 79

of the oppossum are quite numerous; also the ant-
eater, a remarkable animal that subsists entirely up-
on that insect.

The birds of the Isthmus are very numerous, and
embrace some of the most interesting varieties.
Many of them are migratory, leaving at the com-
mencement of the rainy season for the dry atmos-
phere of a more southern climate, where they
abound in still greater numbers in the forests of
Brazil, Paragua, and other places. I did not have
the opportunity of observing but a comparatively
small number, and among them were swallows,
whippoorwills, several species of hawks, wild tur-~
keys, partridges, cuckoos, wood-peckers, turkey-
buzzards, &c. The toucon is a very interesting
bird, and very common. Itis remarkable for the
large size of its bill,it being from four to five inches
long, but very celular and consequently lght; the
tongue is long but slender, and barbed at its edges,
so that when it swallows, it is obliged to throw its head
back, or toss its food up in the air, and catch it deep
in the throat as it falls. It subsists on fruit and in-
sects. The plumage of the different species varies
much, but it is often very beautiful, embracing the
crimson, yellow and blue colors; which are more or
less blended; while some are principally black,
with green and other shades, and a red band about
the neck. .

The parrot tribe embraces a number of varieties,
of which the common green parrot and paroquet
are the most common, while the macaw is the most

80 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

beautiful and least frequently met with of any.
The scarlet macaw is the most splendid, not only
from the beauty of its plumage, but its size, being
the largest of the tribe. The head, neck, breast,
belly, thighs, and upper part of the back, is of a
bright red or scarlet color. The quill feathers of the
wings are of a fine blue, externally, and of a faint
red on the under side, rendering it truly one of
the gayest looking objects of the tropical forests ;
while the paroquets seem to insist upon their right
to the character, by keeping up a lively and almost
constant chatter. |

Great numbers of humming birds are to be seen
flitting about among the flowers which supply a
never failing harvest for them, as well as the honey
bees of the Isthmus. Wherever a flower is bloom-
ing, either in the dense forest or in the open field,
these little gems of animated nature may be found
darting about, or apparently suspended in mid air,
with their slender bills insinuated into its deep
chambers, extracting its sweets. They vary much
in size and appearance, some being as large as a
wren, while others are scarcely of the size of the
humbler bees which hover about the same flower,
and with which they are sometimes seen engaged in
fierce combat, apparently contesting the right to its
delicious treasure. The different classes combine
all the hues of the rainbow in their plumage, and
often many in the same bird. They usually suspend
their tiny nest upon the twig of a tree, and feed
upon the little insects and sweets of flowers.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 81

The aquatic birds most common are herons,
eranes, pelicans and ducks, which are found upon
the inland streams and along the coast.

The class of reptiles embraces a great variety of
formidable and poisonous animals, such as the alli-
gator, which is found in the marshes, and along the
rivers, in great numbers; the boa constrictor,
although not common, is yet occasionally seen, with
a great variety of other snakes, lizards, guanas, &c.
The guana, or iguana, belongs to the class of lizards,
but differs from them in many particulars. They are
often found three or four feet long, and move about
with great velocity, equally expert upon land, in
the water, or upon the branches of a tree. Some of
them have projecting spines along the back, and flat
tails like an eel, with which they move themselves
through the water. They lay their eggs in the sand,
and leave them to be hatched by the warmth of the
sun. ‘The natives sometimes cut them open and re-
move their eggs, after which they are said to recover.
The flesh is as delicate as a chicken, and very much
liked by some persons.

Hrogs and toads are said to be very numerous,
and of enormous size upon this Isthmus; yet I saw
but very few, although I was there during the whole
of the rainy season, when such animals are most ra-
pidly propagated. Although numerous and veno-
mous as reptiles are, not a single serious wound oc-
curred that came under my observation, among all
the men employed upon the public works, although
constantly exposed to them.

5

CHAPTER tI.

The Insect Tribes—a Forest Walk--An Ant’s path--Their Habitation
—Manner of Workmg-—Queen Ant--Their System of Government
—Rules of Warfare-—-The Comijens—Their Distinctive Habits—
Butterflies-—-Moths-—-Tarantulas—-Scorpions——Fire—Flies and Lan-
tern-Bugs—Sand-Flies and Fleas~-Garapattas--Chigoe or Jigger
—Musketoes, &c.

Tue inter-tropical regions have ever been recog-
nized as furnishing the favorite abodes of the Insect
tribes, and the section under consideration has not
been neglected nor passed over by them.

Imagine yourself, friendly reader, in company
with the writer, on an excursion into one of the deep
wilds of the Isthmus forest. The sun shines bril-
liantly, and the deep foliage, as you look up, seems
one vast transparency of varying green, garnished
here and there with gorgeous flowers, around which
the humming bird and humble bee are fluttering and
flitting away. The noisy chatter of a flock of paro-
quets has ceased, and it is only the occasional notes
of some one of the many songsters of the field that is
heard; and all would be profoundly silent, were it
not for the murmur that is constantly falling plea-
santly upon the ear, the united melody of countless

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 83

myriads of animated things, all basking in the same
sunlight that enticed us forth; when a locust strikes
his lyre, and the mind is turned from its contempla-
tion of the music of insects, to the rough grating of
the scissor-grinder.

As we walk along we come upon a path eight or
ten inches wide, and perfectly clear of vegetable
matter; and on observing, it will be found traversed
by great numbers of ants, either black or white, and
nearly all going one way, bearing burdens, probably
apiece of green leaf the size of a dime, and upon
this, perhaps, one or more smaller ants, while the
travellers in the other direction will be after the same.
Interrupt, or in any way obstruct this thoroughfare,
and the little creatures will first come up on each
side, and after surveying the obstacle, turn back,
and communicating with those they meet, a force
will soon be collected, which will set to work and
remove, or prepare a new way by the obstruction.
Following the laden ants we come to a rivulet, and
along this to where a tree has fallen across, we
must find our way, for our pioneers have made a
bridge of it, and thus for many rods may we be led
along, until at last, perhaps, they climb a tree, and
leave us to view their habitation suspended from a
branch far above our reach, or else we find ourselves
beside a mound with towers, or unequal elevations.
If curiosity predominates over humanity, we will
carefully cut this down through the centre with a
macheté, and moving one half away, we shall find
near the middle and at the bottom, a large cell con-

84 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA,

taining the queen ant. On examination, this indi-
vidual will be found enormously distended with
egos, which she deposits in great numbers daily, and
which are removed by the working ants, who find
ingress and egress to this state apartment through
small apertures for that purpose, and for supplying
their royal leader with food; for she is a prisoner
for life, dependent solely upon her subjects. The
larva, or eggs, are deposited in ante-chambers and ul-
timately mature, and being provided with wings they
take their flight in a swarm like bees, but finally be-
come separated, and each female ant choosing a lo-
cation, is made the nucleus of another community.
She first casts off her wings and builds her own
tenement, which is at first very small, but wander-
ing ants adopt her as their sovereign, and relieve her
from all duties but to furnish subjects, which she
does at a rate beyond the comparison of any other
animal. Fortunately for other animated species, these
young ants, in their first flight, are mostly destroyed
by rain or birds, and other animals. I have known
them to accumulate on a window in the evening in
immense quantities, to which they were attracted
by the light of a candle, and on the following morn-
ing they were mostly found dead on the ground be-
neath it.

These commonwealths of ants appear to be go-
verned by the most perfect system; they have not
only a king and queen, but are said to be divided into
soldiers and laborers; the first acting as a body
guard to their majesties. These white ants wage

THE ISTHMUS OF_ PANAMA. 85

war on the colored race, and make slaves of them,
and those seen upon pieces of leaves, being conveyed
away, were probably captured subjects taken after an
engagement. ‘The white ants of this country corres-
pond very nearly with the termits of Africa, de-
scribed by Smeathman; they are called here comi-
jens; and if they once get engaged upon a piece of
timber, they seldom leave it until it is rendered
worthless by their ravages. An exceedingly minute
red, and also a black ant, is found very troublesome
here. They build a covered way upon the inner
walls of a building, and establish their colony in the
upper part of the house, and thus you often find
them neighbors in your domicils, and probably bed-
fellows. They are evidently omniverous, being
readily attracted by anything sweet, and also ex-
hibit a bad taste in attacking dead animals. A
beautiful bird I had obtained and laid away for a
short time, was immediately covered with them, and
in a few hours it was stripped of the small feathers
and. down, which were scattered for several inches
around it; from whence they came I could not dis-
cover, but I was careful that they did not return
the same way, for having destroyed my specimen.

They are indefatigable in their determination to
pursue any course upon which they have started.
For more than a week I caused the progress of a
community that attempted to build a passage way
through my room, to be interrupted daily, but each
succeeding night it was rebuilt.

In contemplating these wonderful little creatures,

86 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

we have wandered in our remarks from the settle-
ment we had broken in upon, and so it is absolutely
necessary to do practically, or we receive the most
positive demonstration of their ability to seek out
and punish their enemies. When we can obtain the
opportunity to examine through the various apart-
ments, windings and ramifications of these industri-
ous communities, the mind is at once impressed with
the stupendous character of their habitations and
highways compared relatively with anything ever
accomplished by human hands, or contemplated by
the mind of man. :

The sun by this time is beclouded, or perhaps
is getting down behind a high mountain in the
west; the monkeys have commenced their howlings,
and the moths, which are numerous, and often mea-
sure three or four inches over the tips of their wings,
have started out from their hiding places, while the
gaily colored butterflies, so beautiful, and of many
varieties, are looking up their night quarters. The
music of the insects has ceased, or rather the field is
-now occupied by another, and differently toned choir,
while we start on our way homeward; but as there
is yet time, we will look up a few specimens on our
way. ‘Tbe moths are better caught by candle light,
and the butterflies have a perplexing habit of keep-
ing out of our way, although we would rush almost
any where to obtain one of the large blue ones that
we so frequently see. So, therefore, we will content
ourselves in turning over pieces of wood and stones
in search for spiders, and we may turn up a large

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 87

black tarantula, that will be well worth saving, or
pull down the leaves of a large plant, and likely
enough a scorpion will come to light. The sting of
this animal is very painful, and the bite of the taran-
tula is said to be fatal to life, but probably not as
much so as the red species of Mexico. .

Arriving at our quarters, we sit down in the
veranda, and, with the disappearance of daylight,
watch the fire-flies and lantern-bugs as they ap-
pear. The last are numerous only at times, and
differ from the common fire-fly in being much larger,
‘and giving out a constant phosphoric light from two
points on their heads, and so exceedingly brilliant
that four or five of them, under a glass, will produce
light sufficient to read by. Many other nocturnal
insects will be constantly flitting about, which, with
sand-flies and fleas, will soon convince us that it is
time to seek more perfect repose. But before at-
tempting this it is always best to make a physical
examination of not only the chest, but the whole
body and extremities; and more than likely a pair
of delicate forceps will be called into use, in order
to pick off the garapattas, a kind of wood-tick that
has transferred itself from plants to us; or, if you
have been in the country for a few weeks, -per-
haps the toes will be found festered on the ends, or
these white pimples will appear in other parts, and
on examination a little nest of eggs, scarcely per-
ceptible to the naked eye, will be discovered. These
are contained in a little sack, which it is desirable
to remove entire, for if an egg is left behind, it will

88 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

hatch a very minute worm, that will borough in the
flesh, and make a bad sore. These eggs are de-
posited by the chigoe or jigger, which is about the
size of a flea, and belongs to the same tribe. After
having removed the pestiferous nest, fill the cavity
with cigar ashes or fine tobacco, and then stick a
piece of court plaster over it, and it will soon be
well. There is another insect, and probably of the
same species, that deposits an egg that becomes a
maggot half an inch long, and is often found on
laborers, deep in the flesh, but always leaving an
external opening, out of which it will often project
its black head, and look at you, especially if spirits
of turpentine, hich is the best remedy for them, has
been ejected into its habitation.

After having finished this examination, and sat-
isfied yourself that the intruders are all disposed of,
and resorted to the bed, a musketoe, that you have
not been sufficiently careful to keep outside the bar,
will appear, evidently indulging the absurd idea that
you may be luiled to sleep by his music, and then
quietly take his evening meal. These pests are not
very numerous, but exceedingly fond of the blood
of a white man; and knowing this, you resolve on
his extermination, which being effected, you finally
fall to sleep, thinking that, after all, man is some-
times exceedingly troubled with very little things.

Cue ra. AL

The Climate of the Isthmus—lIts influence on Health—Predisposing
and exciting causes of Disease--The Precautions necessary in
oi ding them——-Character ef the Diseases-—Habits of the Natives
when Sick.

Wirn regard to the climate of the Isthmus of Pan-
ama, and the causes of disease there, every variety
of opinion is expressed that can be conceived, even
upon this fruitful subject, when once taken up by
the public. By some it is claimed to be quite as
healthy as any other climate, and especially exempt
from the necessarily fatal class of diseases; while
others contend that it is the most pestilential in the
world, and [ have somewhere seen it stated in print,
that it is°‘‘so deadly that an European can not
for any length of time endure it ;” and that “ animal
life of every kind, and especially the human species,
were very imperfectly propagated in consequence of
its enervating influence.”

With regard to the last it is but necessary to state,
that a walk through any of the native towns will be
alone sufficient to prove the contrary, unless it is the
morale instead of the physical nature objected to ;

5x

90 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

and as to the lower creations, they certainly abound
in the greatest number and variety.

The latitude of that part of the Isthmus over
which the Panama Railroad passes, is between 8
and 9 degrees north, and consequently is subjected
twice in the year to the vertical rays of the sun, viz.:
about the 21st of April and near the middle of An-
gust. The year is divided into two seasons, with little
else to distinguish them than that the one is wet, and
the other diy, and in this they are strongly marked.
The rainy season is their winter, and corresponds
with our summer, the rains beginning to fall about
the first of May, usually, and terminate in Decem-
ber; and thus, although this is their coolest season,
in consequence of the heavy rains and evaporation,
yet it is also the period when the sun’s rays fall most
vertically ; and therefore the two great elements in
the production of unhealthy exhalations, viz.: heat
and moisture, are operating in their extremest degree
at the same time. But it should be understood that
it is while the surface is undergoing the change from
wet to dry, that miasma is eliminated most rap-
idly. se

During the first two or three months of the wet
season, it does not rain more than is generally found
agreeable for comfort, and to advance the growth
of vegetation ; and about the 21st of June it clears
up, and probably not a drop of rain will fall for a
week. This season is called by the natives El Ve-
ranito di San Juan. (Little summer of St. John.)
Now, during this period, the earth is alternately

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 91

saturated and parched, and consequently there is al-
ways more or less fever prevailing. But it is at the
commencement of the dry season, when the rivers
that have been swoilen by the heavy rains, fall to
their usual level, and the low grounds and marshes
that have been inundated, become dry, that we look
for what may be termed strictly the sickly season.

Dysenteries and diarrheas prevail more com-
monly during the wet season, and for very obvious
reasons. Notwithstanding the elevation of the sun
during the day, the nights are often quite cool. Now,
there is nothing more favorable to the development
of these diseases than sudden changes of tempera-
ture; and here we have them. The laborer at work
in the field first swelters under the hot sun, and then
is suddenly cooled off by a shower of rain, and most
hkely sleeps at night exposed to the chilly air, which,
under all circumstances, should be most scrupulously
avoided.

With such influences as these acting, it would be
very unreasonable to expect but that the country
would be more or less unhealthy, which is truly the
case; yet four-fifths of the cases of disease which
occur there are simple intermittent fever, or ague
and fever, which the judicious use of fifteen grains
of quinine will entirely remove, leaving the patient,
after one paroxysm, as well as he was before.

Diarrheas and dysenteries are also usually very
light in their character, and easily controlled by the
appropriate remedies. Of the more severe forms of
epidemical diseases, it was not in my experience to

92 THE ISTUMUS OF PANAMA,

see but little, nor could I hear from reliable sources
of their existence to any great extent, unless it was
perhaps at Chagres. With the exception of one
season, there has never been any cholera, and then
but few cases occurred, and they were confined to
Chagres and Gorgona; and yellow fever has never
yet been known, at least so I was informed, and I
never learned to the contrary. A severe form of re-
mittent or bilious fever prevails to a considerable
extent, sometimes, and there are occasional cases of
a bad form of congestive fever, but they are usually,
if not always, the result of great exposure, or intem-
perance.

Almost every one who visits the Isthmus to re-
main there any considerable length of time must ex-
pect, as a matter of course, to be more or less af-
fected by the climate, yet not necessarily to have
fever. They will be predisposed to it by the miasma,
but whether or not they will have it will depend, of-
tentimes, upon an exciting cause.

By observing proper precautions, a great deal
may be done to avoid the miasma, which is the es-
sential cause of the fevers. Miasma is eliminated
while the surface is drying, after having been satu-
rated by an overflow of the streams or previous rains ;
consequently, at such times the atmosphere contains
more poison than any other. Another fact which has
long been observed is, that the evening or night air
is most of all pernicious, not so much because it is
cool or damp, but from the unhealthy exhalations
which hover near the earth like smoke and fog, dur-

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 93

ing the night, more than at any other time. The
pleasant evenings after clear days, which are always
delightful in that climate, are by far the worst, espe-
cially if there has been rain within a short time pre-
vious. The night air is so balmy and fresh after a
hot day, that it is almost impossible to resist the temp-
tation to enjoy it, at least with open windows or in
the veranda; yet it is very imprudent to do so.
Another precaution of more consequence still, is to
close up from the night air the sleeping room, which
for reasons already assigned, should never be on the
ground floor. While sleeping, the system is very
much relaxed, and perhaps drenched in perspiration,
and consequently far more impressible than at any
other time; and moreover, about 12 o’clock, the tem-
perature of the atmosphere usually becomes much
lower than at any other part of the twenty-four hours.
Now in order to avoid the miasma on the one hand,
and the sudden change of temperature on the other,
it is always desirable to sleep in an upper room, and
this should invariably be constructed with a venti-
lator in the roof.

By adopting these few simple precautions, the
essential cause of the fevers of this climate may, in
a great measure, be avoided. I know it is exceed-
ingly difficult to be always governed by these rules,
and at present impracticable, yet they should be ob-
served as far as possible, and ultimately these observ-
ances may become incorporated with the established
customs of life, and then they will incur neither re-
straint nor inconvenience.

94 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

There is another class of causes far more nume-
rous, and perhaps more important ; by which I mean
everything calculated to excite fever after the sys-
tem has become predisposed to it. Joreigners resi-
ding in this climate usually become, after a time,
a good deal enervated; they find they cannot per-
form near as much labor, either physical or men-
tal, as in a northern climate. An extreme degree of
lassitude overtakes them at times, and they feel it
almost impossible to perform any duties whatever.
This is the effect of miasma; the system contains
_the fuel of fever, which only requires to be ignited.
Now this is the state in which exciting causes are in-
strumental in producing the disease, and anything
may be deemed such that excites or taxes the system
to any considerable extent, as excessive fatigue, ex-
posure to the sun long continued, or a shower of rain
while perspiring, over indulgence in eating, and,
above all, in the use of stimulating drink. During
my services of nearly six months, as one of the Sur-
geons to the Panama Railroad Company, I never
saw a single case of fever from which I apprehended
a fatal result, but in persons of intemperate habits ;
and the only two patients, whose cases terminated
fatally, under my charge, had been immediately pre-
vious on a debauch.

Of all the exciting causes of fever, I believe this
by far the most potent in its results, if not the most
common. Iam aware that there are exceptions to
this—that there are those who bear up under the
influence of the use of stimulating drinks—but they

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 95

must be considered as exceptions, and their number
is very small. The effect of stimulants is to derange
the functions of the liver, which is also the effect of
the climate; and under the influence of both, there
are few constitutions that can long resist diseases.
I have no expectation of convincing the public of
this fact, for many are too blindly conceited in their
own opinions to regard the advice of any one, and
such usually work out their experience at a fearful
cost. Under the influence of the first debilitating
effects of the climate, nothing is more natural than
the suggestion to “take a little brandy to prop up
the energies of the system;” and there are always
enough to give this advice, and participate in the
administration ; and for a time the effect may seem
salutary ; but soon the sallow complexion, the irri-
table temper, and frequent accession of fever, will
indicate too plainly the work that is going on.

In a country like this, perhaps more than any
other, where there are but few facts established in
the popular mind with regard to health, every one
voluntarily turns medical adviser; and I believe, as
a general thing, the most ignorant are the most for-
ward in their pretences and opinions; and nothing
ean exceed the ridiculous absurdity often exhibited
by such parties upon this grave subject, with no bet-
ter authority for the support of their views, than
that they “ believe so,” and that is sufficient.

It is exceedingly difficult to convince people that
stimulants are not conducive to health in a climate
where the tendency is to debility; but such persons

96 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

usually undergo a series of revolutions in opinion in
the course of a few months, and it is curious to see
how faithfully they will adhere to its use in some
form. Commencing with brandy indiscriminately,
they soon conclude that it must be of the “best
quahty,” and used “ moderately,” but this is not to
be endured long. Whisky, old Monongahela
Whisky, will next be tried, and most probably be
discovered to be the stimulus for the climate; but
this soon wears out, and then gin, and perhaps rum,
down to porter, ale and claret will all follow in their
turn, each receiving its medium of praise as being
just the thing for the particular constitution; yet
one and all of them are alike pernicious, with the
exception, perhaps, of claret, moderately used,
which may do no harm if it is good; but the others,
in proportion as they contain the stimulating prin-
ciple, are injurious, however carefully taken, to
nineteen-twentieths of those who reside upon the
Isthmus, by promoting the diseases of the climate,
laying all other considerations aside. Nor is it the
use of alcoholic drinks on the Isthmus alone that is
found injurious; but those who, previous to going
there, have been intemperate—whose constitutions
have become in the slightest degree impaired—are
almost sure to break down at once. I have seen
this effect in so many instances, that I have no hesi-
tation in setting it down as an almost invariable
rule, and therefore would advise any such unfortu-
nate individual to keep off of the Isthmus if he values
his life as of the least possible consequence.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 97

Every one has probably heard of the ‘ Chagres
fever,” which is usually spoken of with an emphasis
that strikes terror to the timid, especially if they
have ever been exposed to the atmosphere of that
place.

Although the name is not, by any means, a
classic one, yet it has the advantage of being correct,
in a general sense; for I do not believe that there
is another place in the world, where the causes of
diseases are developed and fostered to a greater ex-
tent than they are in this place of most unenviable
notoriety. The consequence is, that a bad and fatal
form of fever prevails there at times, which is most
emphatically the fever of Chagres; and the unmea-
sured nse of intoxicating drinks is one of its prin-
cipal causes.

Exposure to the rains of that country is another
very common exciting cause of fever, and it should
be very carefully avoided. ‘This has been one of the
great causes of fever and dysentery among the la-
borers on the Panama Railroad. Often they would
scarcely get to their work, when a sudden shower
would fall upon them, and when perspiring pro-
fusely over the spade or pick. If they abandoned
work for the day, but few would have the prudence
to change their clothes for dry.ones; and perhaps
resume the same wet garments the following morn-
ing. Now, nothing can be more prejudicial to
health anywhere, than such habits as these, and
when we add to this, the perhaps worse practice of
sleeping with the windows and doors of their quar-

98 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

ters open, which they would always insist upon do-
ing, itis more a matter of wonder than otherwise
that they endure the climate as well as they do. The
Railroad Company make the most liberal provisions
for their comfort, but it was always impossible to
make them understand that there were any reasons
for closing a house, other than to keep out the cold.
The native, on the approach of a shower, strips off
his shirt, which is probably the only garment he
wears; securing it in adry place, he lets the rain
fall upon his bare back, and then resumes his cover-
ing after it is over.

This is truly a primitive mode of protection from
rain, yet from what I have seen, I judge it to be the
best. The perspiration may be checked for the time
and the system receive a shock from so plentiful a
shower bath; but the function of the skin is imme-
diately restored by the dry covering, and on the
whole, upon hydropathic principles, 1 am not sure
but the subject has received a tonic after nature’s
purest method, and without interfering with his time
or business. But when a native gets the fever, he
repudiates this practice altogether, so much so, that
it-is exceedingly difficult oftentimes to get them to
take any remedy combined with water; and they
most scrupulously avoid the application of water
externally, even in quantity sufficient to keep them-
selves clean. ‘The natives’ remedy for fever is limes,
the juice of which they suck from them while the
fever is on, with slices of the same placed upon the
forehead and temples, and with this simple treatment,

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 99

and abstinence from water and food, they readily
recover. Dathing in the streams is a very common
practice among them during the dry season, but they
seldom indulge in this luxury after ten o’clock, and
rarely at all during the rainy season.

A very wide-spread impression prevails in the
public mind in faver of a Southern climate for those
who are predisposed to, or affected with consump-
tive diseases; and as a general thing, such is the
case; but the Isthmus is an exception to the general
rule; for, whether or not it is the approximation of
the two oceans, and almost constant sea breezes, or
the extreme dampness of the climate; either or both
of these causes; in no place have I seen consump-
tion more rapidly developed ; indeed, it is the dis-
ease of which the natives very commonly die. The
same is true of almost every other taint in the sys-
tem—as, for instance, chronic syphilis is almost sure
to be developed, if there are any seeds of it lurking
in the constitution.

A very important consideration for those who
visit this climate, is that of dress. The experience
of the English and American Army and Navy sur-
geons in tropical climates, is well sustained here
with regard to the use of flannels. There is nothing
which so well protects the cutaneous surface against
the effects of sun and rain, as this material; it pre-
vents the rapid evaporation from the surface, and
consequent sudden check of the perspiration; and a
shower of rain or the night air may be borne with
far greater safety if the skin is protected by this co-

100 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

vering ; and light gauze flannel next to the skin will
usually be found to add much to the comfort; but
to those who are frquently exposed, a good substan-
tial red or blue one is much preferable.

Another preventive which I deem of great im-
portance, and which has hitherto been entirely neg-
lected, is the use-of fires. During the rainy sea-
son the atmosphere is very damp, and pervades
everything; even the closest drawers will not exclude
it, and clothes will become mouldy without frequent
' sunning, or the liberal use of camphor gum sprin-
kled among them. Such an atmosphere, especially
in a sleeping room, must, of course, be more or less
detrimental to health ; but its effects may be entirely
overcome by the occasional use of a fire in the af-
ternoon, when the air is frequently so cool as to
render it very grateful to the senses. Heat is, more-
over, one of the most powerful disinfectant agents
we have, but how far it would prove effectual in
dissipating the miasma is not certainly known, al-
though there is no doubt but that it would to a con-
siderable extent.

The observance of the precautions which I have
but imperfectly here laid down, for the guide of
those who go out to this country, I am very con-
fident would do much for the exemption of disease ;
and I know no positive reason why the Isthmus of
Panama may not, in the future, undergo as great
a change in this respect, by the population of the
country and cultivation of the soil, as have many
portions of our Western and Southern States.

GARTER: XPLIs

Inter- communication between the Atlantic and Pacific—Advantages to
Commerce—To the Growth and Prospeoity of the Pacific States—
New lines of Steamships—Their effect in meliorating the Condition
of Mankind.

THE subject which more than all others has called
the attention of the public mind to the consideration
of the Isthmus of Panama, is that of inter-communi-
cation at this point between the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans. Since the acquisition of California, the ne-
cessity for some better means of transit has become
much greater than ever, and may be deemed abso-
Iutely essential to the commercial interest of the
whole world. But this is not a necessity of the pre-
sent time merely, suddenly springing up, and lable
to be superseded hereafter; but on the other hand,
so open to the eyes of the world have been the ad-
vantages to. be derived from connecting the two
oceans by a railroad or ship canal, that, as early as
1827, General Bolivar caused the country to be sur-
veyed, in order to ascertain the most practical route ;
and since then, the English and French governments
have done the same, and the subject has been elab-
orately diseussed by Baron Von Humboldt, Louis
Napoleon Bonaparte, and many others, of less dis-
tinction, but perhaps of equal judgment; but it has

102 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

remained for American enterprise to put in pro-
gress of execution this great work, which will add
another to the many monuments of her indubitable
energy and enterprise.

A recent writer in speaking of the advantages to
England’s commerce in this route, over all others,
says : ‘ Even now the western route over the Isthmus,
spite of the harrassing and tedious passage across
it, is much the nearer way to the british possessions
in the South Pacific—the New Zealand, the Great
Britain of the southern hemisphere, and the Austral
continent.” ‘There are three routes which it is
known ean be accomplished by steam in the follow-
ing average times: The eastern route, or that by
Suez and Singapore—

Outward Voyage, : ; 80 days.
Homeward do. : oo

151

The western route, by Panama and New Zealand,
allowing twenty-three days from Southampton to
Panama:

Outward Voyage, “s : 64 days.
Homeward do : . oo en
127
Round the Cape of Good Hope: :
Outward Voyage, 72 days.
Homeward do et

Total, 144 days.”

Se

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 103

So that the western route to Austral Asia, as at
present existing, is shorter by thirty-four days than
the eastern route, and by seventeen days than that
by the Cape. Now when we add to this the differ-
ence in time occupied in crossing the Isthmus by the
best means hitherto, and by railroad, which cannot
be less than four or five days from the Atlantic to
the Pacific, we find it will give this route a prece-
dence of at least twenty-one days ; a very important
item in the commerce of Great Britain with the
countries in the Pacific and Indian Oceans, to which
her exports amount to about thirty millions of pounds
sterling ; and an advantage which she will not fail
to avail herself of when the door is fairly open.

. Butit is to the advantages likely to accrueto our
own commerce, in uniting more intimately the At-
lantic and Pacific states, that we look for the great-
est results that will follow the completion of this
long contemplated enterprise.

Within the last three years there have probably
150,000 persons crossed the Isthmus of Panama, at
an average expense of not less than $30 each, which
is at least $20 more than it will cost by the railroad,
which will be a saving in the future for that number
of the travelling public, of $3,000,000, independent
of the more important items still, of time, and in-
describable sufferings, which so many are familiar
with, who have hitherto crossed the Isthmus eh
boats and mules.

But these are but few of the many items of im-
portance to be considered in this relation. Whence
come the supplies, the provisions, clothing imple-

104 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

ments of every kind, and even the houses, or mate-
rials for building them, which were necessary for
the already large population of California? It is
well known that they were, for the most part, ship-
ped from the different American ports along the
Atlantic Ocean; that those cities and villages have —
been transported hence by long and perilous voy-
ages around Cape Horn. Attempt for a moment to
estimate the cost, in time and money, thus incurred,
and it will be found that the mind is incapable of
grasping the stupendous fact.

Another important feature, which will be incal-
culable in its advantages to the growing interests of
California—arising from the easy and agreeable
means of transit across the Isthmus—will be, that
of the flocking thitherward of the families of those
who are already there as pioneers, paving the way
to fortune, and of such as shall go in the future;
thus revolutionizing the social habits of that coun-
try, and establishing a more permanent and happy
state of society. Hitherto this has been one of the
greatest detriments to emigration there, and the
separation from the happy influences of home has
been one of the worst in its effects on the habits and
characters of that people. In carrying out the al-
ready contemplated plan of establishing a line of
steamships from Panama to Australia and China, a
new impetus will be given to that trade, which may
be extended to any extent, and do much towards
enlightening the inhabitants of the ‘ Celestial Em-
pire” in regard to the real progress of the rest of

————

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 105

the world, from which they have so scrupulously,
and so much against their own interest, shut them-
selves out of the past.

The Pacific whale fisheries form another branch
of commerce, which will come in for a share of the
benefits to be derived from this great work, in en-
abling the ships in this trade to discharge their car-
goes and receive their stores so near the fields in
which they cruise, and thus make quicker and more
profitable returns to their owners. The rapidly ex-
tending steam navigation of the Pacific will soon
create a demand for coal, which it will be almost
impossible to supply by the present means around
Cape Horn. This has, so far, been one of the great-
est obstacles and expenses attending the establish-
ment of steamship lines upon the coast; but with
the arrangements already making for the transit of
this material across the Isthmus by the Panama
Railroad, this difficulty will be, in a great measure,
remedied, and the expense lightened. Look as we
may, upon every hand, and it is almost impossible

to conceive of any great public interest that will not

be enhanced by the completion of this long contem-
plated desideratum in the commercial communica-
tion of the world. Nor is it alone what is under-
stood as “‘ public interest,” that is to be advanced,
though indeed this is nothing more than the aggre-
gation of private benefits ; but how many thousands,
altogether disconnected from any great public en-
terprise, are already looking forward to the time
when their individual advantage may be subserved
6

106 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

in some way by the completion of this important
undertaking.

The ultimate effect of this line of railroad on the
Province of New Grenada can scarcely yet be con-
ceived. In opening the doors, however, to her
commerce-—that greatest of all channels through
which flows the wealth, prosperity and progress of
every country—it cannot help stimulating the dor-
mant energies and awakening a new life in that
people, and urging them in some degree to reclaim
themselves from the comparatively low position they
hold in relation to almost every enlightened nation,
in all that pertains to agriculture, arts, or manufac-
tures. The social condition of New Grenada must
rapidly undergo a radical change; for, except in a
few of their principal towns, such as Bogota, Car-
thagena and Panama, it is in a most degraded state,
and it is not possible for any people to resist long
the power of the simplest arts of civilized life, when
they are cultivated under the life-giving influences
of an active and remunerating trade.

A country like this, with almost unbounded na-
tural resources—known to possess great mineral
wealth—with a soil so rich, and under a climate so
fertilizing and genial, that the greatest possible va-
riety of natural products are found upon its surface
springing up without the planting or care of the
husbandman—with but one season, and that season
an almost unvarying and eternal summer—with all
these advantages, | ask how is it possible that it can
be travelled over by from fifty to a hundred thou-

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. LOé

sand Americans every year, and not at once be
seized upon and made the garden of the world?
One of the greatest results attending the intro-
duction of steam communication between different
countries, though a result not immediately contem-
plated in their establishment, is that of breaking
down the barriers which exist between different na-
tions, familiarizing them with each other’s habits
and customs, and diffusing intelligence and a know-
ledge of the mechanical and agricultural arts and
sciences. Within a few years the world has under-
gone a very great change in this respect, and in the
future we may justly anticipate the time—that good
time——when the different nations of the earth shall
have become so intermingled with each other that
we shall know no people as foreigners——no national
habits and customs that are strictly peculiar—and
religious intolerance and superstition shall no longer
rear their barriers to true progress, and the great
element of religious truth shall be planted every-
where; and thus he who establishes a line of
steamships between two distant countries, will be
found practically the most successful missionary.

CHA PTR, ; Xule¥g

Proposed Route for a Ship Canal—Isthmus of Tehuantepec—Nicara-
gua—Panama—Relative advantages of Nicaragua and Panama—
Navigation of the River Chagres and River San Juan—Opinions
of Travellers—Reason why they are often so diverse—Advantages
of the Harbor of Navy Bay.

Ture: routes, within the boundaries of the great
Isthmus, have each had their advocates, claiming
superior advantages over the other two—the Isth-
mus of Tehuantepec in Mexico, Nicaragua, and
Panama—but I believe the last has invariably re-
ceived the preference from disinterested parties who
have correctly informed, themselves of all the facts
in relation to the three.

The Spaniards explored the Isthmus more tho-
roughly, without doubt, than it has ever been done
since, and they made this part the thoroughfare to
their Pacific possessions, and it has remained the
principal crossing to the present time. Garella,
who surveyed the country by the appointment of
the government of France, chose the Isthmus of
Panama as the most feasible route for a ship canal
or Railroad, and Col. Lloyd, who acted for the Eng-
lish government, arrived at the same conclusion.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 109

The most advantageous course for great public
thoroughfares is usually pointed out by the unerring
hand of Nature; the Indian first adopts it, and af-
terward it becomes a mule path, and with the pro-
gress of civilization a carriage road is opened, and
then a railroad or canal, and perhaps both. Such
has been the history of almost every great highway
in the American States, and such is most truly the
case across the Isthmus of Panama. There is a
necessary order to be observed in the accomplish-
ment of all great measures for public improvement,
and the steps of progress must be regulated by the
necessities of the people, and an intermediate meas-
ure which may be deemed absolutely essential to
the favorable accomplishment of the great work of
constructing a ship canal across the Isthmus, is that
of a railroad, leaving the still more formidable un-
dertaking for future consideration.

Hitherto all measures for the purpose of connect-
ing the two oceans have been deterred, from appre-
hension of difficulties, both of a moral and political
character; but since the treaty has been established
between the United States and the government of
England, pledging the neutrality of the Isthmus,
anél a better understanding of the climate and its
effects on health, these may be considered in a
great measure removed, while the physical ob-
stacles stand alone with their bold fronts to be con-
tended with. In this respect it is not probable that
the stupendous character of the enterprise has ever
been overrated, while by many it has without doubt
been estimated too low.

110 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

The distance across the Isthmus of Panama, ac-
cording to the report of Mr. Garella, is only about
forty miles, in the course surveyed for a ship canal
commencing at the head of Navy Bay, and the
highest summit necessary to attain is four hundred
and fifty-nine feet; and since the explorations were
commenced to ascertain the most feasible route for
a railroad, under the direction of the Panama Rail-
road Company, I have been informed that Mr.
Baldwin demonstrated a still more advantageous
course, with an elevation of but two hundred and
seventy-five feet. The great difficulty to be over-
come is that of supplying a sufficient quantity of
water to feed the canal on the summit level, and
this is undoubtedly a most serious one.

When the railroad shall have been completed,
and the Isthmus in some measure populated, with
its agricultural resources developed, so that not only
laborers, but their supplies may be furnished there,
then will be the time to not only talk, but to act, in.
this important matter. Then let every nation of
the earth that is so disposed, contribute its propor-
tion, not for the prospect of a direct revenue, but
for the purpose of improving commerce, and who
ean say but that we shall have, not only a ship ca-
nal, but an uninterrupted water level communica-
tion from ocean to ocean. Such an undertaking I
am not aware of having ever as yet been anticipa-
ted, but to decide that it is impracticable, is to deny
the possibility of new inventions for the purpose of
removing and excavating earth and rock. Such a

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. eel

eanal, and such only, I apprehend, will be found
suited for its purpose, and repay the governments
that shall construct it. 7

The route across, or rather through Nicaragua and
its lakes, has received considerable attention and
been reported upon favorably for the construction of
a ship canal.

The whole length of this route, as stated by Mr.
Baily, who surveyed it some years since for the Go-
vernment of Central America, is two hundred and
sixty-four miles; ninety of which are on the river San
Juan, ninety on Lake Nicaragua, twelve on the
River Tipitapa, between Lake Nicaragua and Me-
nagua, or Lake Leon, which last is thirty-five miles
more, and the remaining twenty-nine miles to be a
land-cut between: Menagna and the port of Realejo.

Mr. Baily calculates Lake Nicaragua to. be one
hundred and twenty-eight feet above low water on
the Pacific Ocean, and Lake Menagua twenty-nine
feet higher than Lake Nicaragua, and above this an
elevation must be attained of fifty-five feet, between
Lake Menagua and Realejo, making a summit level
of two hundred and twelve feet above the Pacific
Ocean at low water.

What the advantages of this route are, I have never
yet been able to ascertain. The distance to Califor-
nia would be shortened, but it is doubtful whether
anything would be saved in time, over that by the
way of the Isthmus of Panama, in consequence of the
greater length of the canal, while it would be in-
creased to the still more important countries in the

—

112 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

South Pacific Ocean, and yet not avoid that greatest
of all difficulties, the want of an adequate supply of
water to feed the canal at the summit. But the
ereatest objection of all is the distance. We are
every day being taught, practically, that the shortest
routes are in thelong run the cheapest, although at
first more expensive in their execution, even on rail-
roads where the speed is so great as to lessen the
reality of distance ; yet how much greater still will
be the loss in a ship canal, where the progress of
ships through must necessarily be very slow.

The task of lifting a steamship or merchantman
over this country, at an elevation of two hundred and
twelve feet, and a distance through, of two hundred
and sixty-four miles, would: be found a very for-
midable one, at least; but I have no doubt all
these considerations were fully appreciated by Mr.
Baily.

Another route, or rather a deviation from this, is
receiving some attention at the present time. It
takes in its course the River San Juan to Lake Ni-
caragua, and from thence across to its south-west
coast, a distance of sixty miles, and then over the
high ridge to the port of San Juan del Sur, on the
Pacific Ocean, a distance of seventeen miles, making
in all one hundred and sixty-seven miles. The highest
elevation to be attained between Lake Nicaragua
and San Juan del Sur, according to Mr. Baily, is five
hundred and eight feet, and consequently the diffi-
culty of obtaining water to feed a canal is greater
than that of the other. Another author, Galisteo,

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 118

who surveyed this route in 1781, makes the summit
level but one hundred and fifty-five feet above Lake
Nicaragua; but I am not aware that his report has
ever been confirmed.

The advocates of both these routes base their esti-
mates in a great measure upon the feasibility of con-
verting the San Juan river into a ship canal. By
some the practicability of this does not seem to be
doubted, but the trial will prove, if nothing else will,
that this is a very formidable stream to contend with.
We have no rivers in the United States that com-

- *vyare with those of Central America in their devia-
tions from a given level, either in extent or rapidity
of their variations. It is no uncommon thing for a
stream of from two to three hundred yards in width,
to rise a foot an hour, for twelve or fifteen hours in
succession, and then decline as rapidly ; and during
the flood they bear down their swift currents im-
mense quantities of flood-wood, and sometimes the
largest trees of the forest. ,
After the completion of the canal between Car-
thagena and the Magdalena river, in New Grenada,
the first flood swept away its lock, and yet this is an
ordinary canal, and merely communicates with the
river at its extremity. So confident were the state-
ments of those who might be presumed to know, of
the navigability of the River Chagres, that the Pan-
ama Railroad Company first intended to commence
the construction of that work between Gorgona and
Panama; but they soon found it almost impossible
to reach Gorgona with their supplies. It is very
6*

114 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

true, that small steamers, of light draught, go up as
far as Gorgona, but it is only for a part of the sea-
son, and they can never be relied upon; and the
same obstacles are to be contended with on the River
San Juan. |

The last route described above is now being im-
proved for the transit of passengers to and from Cal-
ifornia, with a line of steamships upon the Atlantic
and Pacific, connecting with it. Mr. Vanderbilt is
the pioneer in this work, and I have seen it stated
that a large sum has already been invested in steam-
boats for the San Juan river and Lake Nicaragua, |
and other means necessary to facilitate the transit of
passengers; but of the success of the enterprise we
have yet to learn. ‘The public has already been en-
tertained by numerous and diverse statements con-
cerning the character of this route, comparing it
with that across the Isthmus of Panama. Some
have described it as much the best, while the ac-
counts of others preclude the possibility of anything
like comfort, representing the whole journey as a
series of miseries. The most glowing fancy has been
indulged in describing the ‘‘ magnificent” scenery of
the river, Jake, and mountain pass.

A recent author of a newspaper article has even
stated that he thinks this route would be prefer-
able, were the Panama railroad completed; but it
may reasonably be supposed, that such writers have
never had their enthusiasm dampened by exposure
to the rainy season, and that they have not fully
considered that on the very ground from which

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 115

they viewed the magnificent scenes, they might
soon after sink to their middle in mud; nor, that
the “ gently-flowing river” would, perhaps, within
twelve hours, become a powerful current, bearing
huge trees swiftly down upon its surface, against
which it would be almost impossible to make any
progress.

It is very easy to reconcile these conflicting state-
ments with an honest purpose, by supposing the
parties to have traveled over the line either during
arainy or a dry season, and to have ascended or
descended the river, according to the nature of their
account. To descend the San Juan during the dry
season, or ascend its current when swollen, and while
the rains are still falling, is to experience two condi-
tions as widely different as are the various news-
paper accounts by travellers.

A very serious objection to this route is that of
its harbors. That of San Juan del Sur, on the Pa-
cific, is objectionable in almost every respect, while
those of the Panama route are remarkably good.
Navy Bay is four and a half miles deep, and the
island of Manzanilla is situated directly atits mouth,
and upon its east side, affording shelter to shipping,
and room, with sufficient depth. of water, for the
largest class steamships to-lie directly alongside its
piers. As a commercial port for the lading of ships,
and discharging cargoes and passengers, it 1s, un-
doubtedly, the best on the coast of Central America 5
and these are considerations of the greatest i1mport-
ance in connection with a railroad or ship canal.

-~

CHAPTER XV.

Former Views concerning a Railroad across the Isthmus—Reasons for
a change of Opinion—Organization of the Panama Railroad Com-
pany—First Steps taken for the Prosecution of the Work—Its
Magnitude-—Manzanilla Island—The Harbor——Prospective Town
-—Prospects of Business--Changes already Effected—The Future
—Sketches of the Isthmus.

It has formerly been contended that a railroad
would never answer the necessities of commerce,
but merely contribute to the more ready and com-
fortable transit of passengers. While the last con-
sideration may be deemed of sufficient importance
to warrant the undertaking, we regard it as of by
far the least consequence of the two.

Within three years, a very remarkable change
has taken place, having a direct bearing upon this
question. The Pacific, which hitherto had seldom
been traversed, except by an occasional whale-ship,
or merchantman, has now become the great high-
way for numerous steamships, while the number of
sailing vessels have accumulated more rapidly than
was ever known before in any part of the world, and,
therefore, it becomes a question whether or not the

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 117

more rapid transit by railroad, over that of a ship
canal, will not repay the cost of discharging and re-
lading cargoes, inasmuch as the means are already
on the Pacific for re-shipment to any destined port.
With this view of the subject, the Panama railroad
was undertaken, and having been frequently alluded
to in these pages, it becomes necessary, in order to
embrace all points of interest to the public, to apes
more definitely of it.

The Company was organized on the second*day
of July, 1849, by the election of a board of directors,
and is represented by John L. Stephens, William
H. Aspinwall, and Henry Chauncey. John L. Ste-
phens was elected president of the board, and Francis
Spies was appointed secretary. Mr. Stephens has
been, emphatically, the pioneer in this enterprise,
and the duties of his office could not have been
placed in better hands, not only from his thorough
knowledge of the country, and the habits of the peo-
ple he had to deal with officially, as the representa-
tive of the Company, in obtaining a grant for the
road; but for his accurate judgment, liberal policy,
and untiring devotion to the interests of the work.

The company thus formed proceeded at once to
direct full and careful explorations and surveys of
the country, in order to decide upon the best route
for the construction of the road. About one year
and a half was consumed in these investigations,
which finally resulted in the selection of the route
from Manzanilla Island in Navy Bay to Panama on
the Pacific, as laid down on the map accompanying

118 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

this volume. Since then the work has been going
on under the immediate charge of George M. Totten,
Esq., as chief engineer, and with an energy of pur-
pose which characterizes the operations of business
men, who know what they are doing, and are confi-
dent in the result.

To convey a general idea of the magnitude and
character of this enterprise, it is but necessary to
state that, up to the present time, (Dec. Ist., 1851,)
the Company has sent out-fifty-eight vessels freighted
with stores, materials, &c., exclusive of those engaged
to take the iron from England direct,-and that 2019
men have been employed on the work, under en-
gagements varying from three to twelve months

each, besides about 1000 natives, mostly from Car-
hatena and its vicinity.*

The first thing to be done was to clear a por-
tion of the island of its encumbered vegetation,
and erect dwellings for the officers and men. It was
here that the first blow was struck in the commence-
ment of this great work, and from this spot the
sound of the axe went forth in the forests to tell the
natives that Los Americanos had come to hew out a
path for the iron horse, that they might reach with
greater speed their possessions still farther distant
on the Paeific; fecilitate their commercial inter-
course with the inhabitants of the celestial empire;
and bring the far-off colonies of Australia nearer to
their father-land.

* For further details of the road, and of its progress from time to
time, see appendix.

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 119

The island of Manzanilla is about one and a half
miles in length, and a mile in width. The channel
upon the east side, between the island and the main
land, is narrow, but of sufficient depth for navigation,
and is a perfectly safe harbor for shipping. The
main entrance to the bay, upon the west side of the
island, is about two and a half miles in ‘width; and
it may be entered at any time by vessels of the
largest class, and without even a pilot.

The prospective town, although it is already laid
out, as yet has received no distinctive appellation ;
but, we trust, it will receive one that shall perpetuate
the name of some member of the Company that was
first in breaking ground in this great work, among
whom there is none more prominent than that of
Aspinwall.

Navy Bay extends up about four and a half miles,
and affords secure anchorage in every part of it, and
many coves where vessels can ride in perfect safety,
under cover of points, protected from winds or sea.
A deep cove in the island, immediately on entering
the bay, affords abundant space for a large number
of the largest class vessels, with sufficient depth of
water behind and alongside the pier. Upon the
other side of this harbor, the railroad track is laid
on piles driven along the water’s edge, by the side
of which piers are extended for the discharge and
shipment of cargoes.

The island was originally entirely a coral forma-
tion, but the soil which has been superadded by the
process of vegetation and decay, is now of sufficient

120 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

depth to sustain the heaviest growth of forest trees,
which were thickly scattered over it, but have been
cleared away for some distance back, the largest of
which is the Manzanilla tree, from shag the ‘sland
received its name.

The coast of the main land opposite the island, in
every direction, is generally high and abrupt, yet
clothed with the most luxuriant vegetation to the
water’s edge, and every where the cocoanut palm
is Seen conspicuous, which supplies an abundance
of that delicious fruit. |

In the selection of Navy Bay as the northern ter-
minus of the railroad, there can no longer be any
doubt but that the best point is obtained. The har-
bor has less objections than almost any other; it is
at all times accessible, without sand-bar or other ob-
struction. The tide rises and falls, usually, about 24
inches, and the convenience to the travelling public
of being able to land directly from a vessel upon a
pier, will be appreciated by those who have hereto-
fore crossed the Isthmus, and been obliged to pay
two dollars each, for being carried to and from a
vessel at Chagres.

Considering the natural advantages of this point,
and the large amount of business that must necessa-
rily be transacted here, the conclusion is unavoidable,
that it must rapidly become an important commer-
cial town, where enterprise will as surely be rewarded,
as any event under human control can be predicted
and made certain. ,

Such have been the changes effected in this place,

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 121
*.

which, but a short time since, was the haunt of wild
beasts and reptiles, which were seldom ever start-
led from their hiding-places by the approach of man;
and the future traveller who visits the Isthmus, has
yet to mark far greater and more perfect improve-
ments, than any we have here depicted.

Already the long piers and shipping in the har-
bor, the warehouses and dwellings, with the puffing
locomotives arriving and departing with passengers
and merchandise, presents an animated and business”
like aspect.

In order to embrace many details of matters and
things on the Isthmus and other places, which will
be found of more or less interest, especially to those
who visit this country, the following chapters will
be devoted to a series of communications which
were addressed to my friend, D. D. Wait, Esq., of
Batavia, Genesee County, New York, and originally
published by him. In perusing them, I beg the
reader will remember that they were impressions of
the time, often hastily conceived, and sketched under
circumstances unfavorable to great exactness, or ele-
gance of diction.

CHAPTER XVI.

Leaving New York—Arrival at Havana—Appearance of the Har-
bor—The City—The Moro Castle-—-Passports-—-A night in the

Harbor—Architecture of the City-—-Volantes—The Bishop’s Gar-
den, &c.

On the 26th of April, 1851, I shook hands with my
friends and went on board the Steam Ship Ohio,
Lieut. J. Finley Schenck, Commander, about cast-
ing off from her moorings and bound for Havana,
en route for the Isthmus of Panama. As we drop-
ped down the bay, I looked back upon the Babylon
of modern times and thought of the many thousands
who crowded its thoroughfares, and felt that I was
but a drop in the bucket just gathered up from the
great sea of life.

On looking round upon my “companions de
voyage,” every one seemed intently occupied with
the thoughts which usually crowd upon the mind on
such occasions. Many of them were evidently bound
for the auriferous regions in the far off Pacific, and
in many an eye, which had no doubt brightened
with the prospect of gathering up the. glittering
dust, there glittered now a tear, and I thought it

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 133

time for them to begin to note down, the sad items
which were to make up the price of Gop.

On the morning of the sixth day, after a delight-
ful voyage, we made the highlands of Guba, and in
a few hours afterwards, we turned in beneath the
towering Moro and anchored in the harbor of Ha-
vana. The arrival in port is always a source of
great delight, especially to those not accustomed to
the sea, and it is usually improved in replenishing
the stomach of its lost contents; but Havana pre-
sents too many objects of interest to be neglected,
and particularly so to those who have never visited a
Spanish Town. The city, with its quaint edifices, is
situated on low ground, at the right hand as the har-
bor is entered, and on the left are the high walls of
the Moro Castle, extending. back a great distance,
and so elevated that the sentinels, as they pace to
and fro on its ramparts, look like’ prgmies. The
American who is accustomed to make the most of
everything, looks with astonishment at the unim-
proved borders of this beautiful harbor, which em-
brace more than half of its circumference, and imme-
diately begins to calculate the various purposes for
which they could be occupied.

There being no appropriate piers or docks, steam-
ships, consequently, lie out in the bay, and passen-
gers pass to and from the ship in little boats, many
of which are rigged with sails and an awning over
the after-part, to keep off the rays of the sun, which
are intensely hot here.

We had scarcely come to anchor, when a Span-

194 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

ish official appeared, and with a decidedly military
air, took his place in the captain’s room, from which
it was announced, that “all those passengers who
wish to go ashore, must first walk up to the office
and procure their passports.” ‘The price was one
dollar, in Spanish silver, and although we did not
deem it by any means a hospitable invitation to view
the city or patronize its hotels and shops, yet we
concluded to avail ourselves of the distinguished
privilege, and after having read the fearful account
of what would be done with those who should be
found on her majesty’s dominions without this pro-
tection, we put the document aside, to learn after-
wards that it was seldom ever called for from or-
derly people, who confine themselves to their own
affairs.

Before we could efiect a transit to the steamship
Falcon, on which we were to proceed on our way to
Chagres, the afternoon had merged into the twilight
of evening, and as we sat out upon the open deck
that night, with pleasant companions, many tales
of other days, and wild adventures on distant lands
and seas, were recounted, so that it was not until the
flickering lights of the city began to disappear, and
the watchword from the ramparts of the Moro,
warned us of the night far spent, that we could be
induced to leave the delightful starlight scene, and
the balmy air that fanned us so gently, for our close
quarters. below.

At an early hour on the following morniug, our

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 125

party started out for an outside view of Havana and
its environs.

It may be doubtful whether there are any who
have not heard enough of Havana; of its gaily-co-
lored and splendid palaces, of its public and pri-
vate gardens, and the many beautiful drives or pasios,
and other peculiarities of this oldest of the Columbian
cities. )

Havana and its suburbs contains, at the present
time, about 180,000 inhabitants. It is built princi-
pally of brick, in the most substantial manner, the
walls being very thick, and heavily stuccoed, and,
lastly, colored in the most fanciful manner, usually
either red, blue, or yellow, and sometimes the va-
rious colors combined, although the whitewash is
the most common, many buildings being simply
trimmed with colors. I can conceive of no language,
other than the vernacular, capable of conveying
any just idea of the style of architecture. The
principal hotels and private residences are en-
tered by a paszo, or court pass, which leads to a cen-
tre court; the lower story is occupied for carriage-
room, stable, and servants’ apartments; and from
this centre court, or from the pasio, a broad flight
of steps leads to the apartments above, or rather to
a broad paved walk, open one side, looking into the
court, and from this, through wide doorways, into |
the various rooms of the household, varying, of
course, with the different uses and extent of the
edifice.

The shops usually have one broad entrance, with

126 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

doors that fold upon themselves, and no windows.
They are small, and so arranged that the stock can
mostly be seen, at a glance, through the doorway in
passing. When windows do occur in the first story
of shops, or in public or private buildings, they are
often left without glazing, but strongly barred with
iron, and close with shutters inside. In the second
story, or dwelling part of the building, the windows
_are barred with wood, and secured at night and from
storms by close shuts only. ‘This description ap-
ples more particularly to the older class of buildings,
although many very elegant private residences, es-
pecially in the suburbs, were in the same style, al-
though comparatively of modern appearance; the
windows would be secured by a richly ornamented
iron grating, and protected from the sun by broad
curtains, suspended from the top, so as not to ob-
struct the full ingress or egress of a current of air.

The style of buildings is exceedingly well adapted
to the climate; with their high walls, open courts
and balconies, and free ventilation, they are calcu-
lated to promote, in the highest degree, the comfort
of the inhabitants, but, of course unsuited to any
climate than that of constant summer. |

Lhe streets are mostly very narrow, with walks
not more than sufficiently wide for two to walk
abreast, and often not sufficient for that. Shops are
scattered in every part of the town, without much
distinction; a block, for instance, bearing the same
general appearance, will be occupied by parties en-
gaged in the most diversified pursuits, and thus it is

THE ISTHMUS OF .PANAMA,. 127

that a great similarity exists in the different parts of
the town, although some districts are far more ele-
gant alee ars.

The great .repugnance of the eating to the
adoption ‘of the customs and improvements of other
nations, is exhibited in their adherence to the rude
style of their vehicles. The most peculiar of all is
the volante, which is, no doubt, the exact contrivance,
without improvement or modification, that a mule
was first attached to, but with us has been short-
ened, and reduced to the modern gig. The appear-
ance of this vehicle is very Indicrous, with its large
wheels and long shafts, which hang suspended by
the side straps of a saddle upon one of the small
native horses, and mounted by the driver, while the
“top,” or covered seat, is placed at a considerable
distance forward of the wheels, and thus the poor
animal is compelled to the double task of hauling as
well as bearing his burden. Not liking to exhibit a
preference for the natives’ taste and. notions of ele-
gance in this particular, we stepped into a New
York made omnibus, drawn by a pair of horses, evi-
dently not of the islands’ growth, and rode out three
miles through the suburbs of the city, to near the
bishop’s fee and garden.

This garden contains about 60 acres, and it is
hardly ao-ails to conceive of a greater variety, or
more luxuriant vegetation, than is here presented to
the eye at every step for miles in the course of its
many varying walks and. drives. The royal palm
is the principal and most beautiful of the many

128 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

shade trees that line its walks. The trunk, which is
somewhat pear-shaped near the ground, runs up
sometimes 125 feet perfectly straight, with a gradual
taper before reaching the root of the leaf, which
encircles the trunk for four or six feet further, and
is of a bright green, and then spreads off with great
regularity, giving the peculiar umbrella like appear-
ance to the top of the tree. The fruit of this palm
is of no account, but adds much to the appearance
of the tree, as it hangs in large clusters like grapes,
at the root of the leaf, and from four to six feet be-
low the point where it spreads from the trunk.
Nothing can exceed the beauty of this tree, with its
smooth, straight trunk to the cluster of fruit which
encircles it like a collar, and above it of a bright
ereen for a few more feet, and then the spreading
top of beautiful symmetry, which crowns the whole.
Of the great variety of trees in this garden, I
had not time to examine many, nor should I have
known what they were, in some instances. I could
only designate the orange, lemon, date, mango,
lime, and a few others. The caoutchouc I also dis-
covered, from the gum which I found issuing from a
fracture. Streams of water cross the garden in many ©
directions, through artificial channels, feeding small
ponds, which in some places were covered with beau- —
tiful lilies, and pools which were covered with iron-#*
grated buildings for aquatic animals, although but
one was inhabited, and that by a lonesome-looking
alligator. In appropriate enclosures I observed a
panther, two leopards, a wolf and the American

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 129

»

Eagle, which seemed confined to rather narrow lim-
its, and altogether away from home. Many ancient
looking pieces of statuary were situated along the
walks, and some of very perfect execution.

For hours we walked through the shady avenues
of this beautiful place, and although far exceeding
anything I had ever before seen, yet there were on
every hand evidences that it is now much short of
its former perfection and grandeur. In many places
the ruins of old buildings, the use of which I could
not divine, and fountains which had become simply
frog pools, told plainly of neglect, and that nothing
save the fertility of the soil and favorable climate
preserved it from going to waste. The present
Bishop takes little or no interest in it, although it is
nominally under his charge.

Of the Cathedral supposed to contain the re-
mains of the discoverer of the New World—the Ta-
con Theatre, and other notable places, the public are
already familiar. The Pasio de Tacon is the favor-
ite resort of the citizens, and I am informed that
another public garden, far superior to the one I have
described, is situated but a short distance from the
city.

CHAPTER. XVII.

An unpleasant Dilemma, for which there is no remedy—The highlands
of the Isthmus—Chagres—Fort San Lorenzo—Disembarkation—
The Boatmen——-Pitiable plight of the Ladies—Going up the River—
Going to Navy Bay—F¥irst Morning on. the Island——The Coral In-
sect--Crabs—-Temverature of the Climate.

On returning to the ship at night, with the ex-
pectation of leaving early the next morning, I found
myself and room-mate in one of those unpleasant
dilemmas which sometimes occur, and for which
there is no remedy, simply because the other party
is—“a lady.” 2 ae ji

In our absence, two women had come aboard,
and demanded a room; the clerk, on looking over
his list, found every one already occupied; but being
a gallant man could not tell them so, inasmuch as
their passage had been paid from New York through,
and consequently took them into the cabin and told
them to take their choice, which unluckily fell upon
the one we had pre-occupied. Finding no one to re-
monstrate, they expressed their satisfaction with it on
condition that the trunks should be removed; which
was readily assented to, and in this state we found

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 131

our anticipated pleasant accommodations for the re-
mainder of the voyage.

On applying to the clerk, he gave us a discourse
upon the difficulties in supplying a greater number
of passengers with rooms, than there were berths in
the ship. To have insisted on the ladies being eject-
ed, notwithstanding we had the prior claim, would
have been: incompatible with our ideas of civil-
ity, and to sleep without a berth, would certainly be
very uncomfortable, anal therefore, in this state of
things, we were glad to accept a lease on a room, for
one night only, the claimants being ashore; and as
we “turned in,” I confess to the apprehension of
being soon “ turned out;” but thanks to the baccha-
nalian propensities of its subsequent occupants, they
did not appear until the following morning. >

Early the next. day we got to sea, and as I
moved about from place to place on the ship, I felt
truly like one houseless and homeless; but towards
night I was finally shown a berth, the lower one of
three, in a room of the least possible dimensions,
where I was permitted to crawl in, and then in
straightening out, shove my: head behind two trunks
and sleep if | could. The door opened upon the
gangway, and was of necessity left open during the
night to give us air to breathe, and as occasionally
spray came in with it, I felt truly that my lot was a
hard one, but it was only to be borne. During the
whole passage, I earnestly hoped for some ‘sign or
word in acknowledgment of my courtesy, from the la-
dies, to mitigate my sufferings ; but not one word did

132 THE ISTUMUS OF PANAMA.

T hear, and as I frequently observed their sharp set
features, I own to have formed a iat unfavorable
opinion of them.

On the morning of the fifth day, we made the
high mountains of the Isthmus near Porto Bello, and
in approaching the coast, Navy Bay next appeared,
and soon after we were at anchor off Chagres, with
the moss-covered and time-blackened walls of the
old Fort San Lorenzo directly before us.

To disembark was now the immediate business,
in which every one was striving to be first; and at
Chagres it is a performance far more interesting to
witness than experience. Imagine four or five hun-
dred passengers, each with carpet-bag and portman-
teau in hand, hurrying down the narrow steps by
the side of the ship, among a fleet of small boats, the
noisy owners of which, some black, some red, and
others white, are alike expert in the use of invec-
tievs, which they shower unsparingly on every one,
and to such a degree, that if the least of their impre-
cations were answered, the ship and all its contents
would immediately sink, and the reader will have
some slight idea of the scene.

The cloud belt which hangs over this country
about half of the year, had already formed, and the
rain was falling plentifully as I silently looked on,
and with a degree of indifference, until the ladies,
of whom there was a goodly number on board be-
sides those already alluded to, came to depart,
when I[ could not refrain from a feeling of sorrow at

the pitiable phght they exhibited. There was one

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 133

who, innocently enough, had been somewhat free in
her remarks about ‘“‘ the vulgar men on-board,” and
who evidently had no better idea of crossing the
Isthmus than that a trip up the river Chagres would
be a merry excursion, and that riding a fhule would
be romantic. On ate following morning, when I saw
her packed into a small open boat, ai some of the
“vulgar men,” with the rain falling most unmerci-
fully, she looked crest-fallen, and if it would have
done any good, I most certainly should have pitied
her.

It was not until the next day that we left the
ship for Navy Bay. Our party consisted of twelve
or fourteen, and we were obliged first to disembark
in a yawl and row out to the Railroad Company’s
steamer, that was waiting to receive us. Scarcely
had we shoved off from the ship, when rain com-
menced falling, which, with the heavy sea, rendered
our condition anything but agreeable. As we neared
the little steamer, we were alternately above and be-
low its deck, pitching up and down to such a degree
that it required a very accurate calculation of the
exact time to leap anywhere but into the sea. One
by one, however, we all succeeded, and at dark were
landed on the pier at Manzanilla Island.

The sun had scarcely begun to shed its golden rays
upon the eastern sky, ere [ was up on the following
morning, and, having taken a cup of coffee, started
out to view the island.

That an insect, too minute to be seen without a
microscope, should have been employed to build up,

134 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

from the bottom of the sea, a foundation upon which
man was ultimateiy to erect his habitation, is a fact
here fully demonstrated, and one that impresses the
mind with a deep sense of the inscrutable operations

f Infinite Wisdom. When this stupendous work was
commenced or finished, if it is yet complete, by this
great family of mites, we, .of course, have no’'means-~
of knowing; but. the large growth of trees upon its
surface, al the broad lontet or embankment thrown
up, of broken coral, upon the north shore, indicates
great age; and the occasional discovery of a can-
non ball would seem to suggest that active operations
had at some day been carried on here; but no fur-
ther traces are to be discovered, although it is known
to have been the favorite ieide7coue of the bucca-
neers, about two hundred years ago.

With everything so strangely new about me, the
sun appearing so out of place, and vegetable life pre-
senting such unusual forms, while the very air I
breathed seemed unlike any I had ever before in-
haled, with the strange consciousness that the surface
on which I stood could not have been a part of the
original formation of the earth, I should have been
half inclined to consider whether, in reality, I had
not landed upon the shores of another existence,
were it not that the unmistakable evidences of mor-

tality were about me. .

The morning was most truly delightful, and, as
I walked along ees beach, the gently stirring air was
fresh and pleasant, while the sea had scarcely a ripple
upon its surface; the sky was clear, and the birds

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 135

sang sweetly. Great numbers of land-crabs started
for their hiding-places as I approached, and it wes
eurious to see with what tacility they would scramble
along, one way as well as another, enjoying the
happy faculty of getting through the world without
being obliged to turn around. They excavate deep
holes in the ground, or seek out crevices in the coral
rocks, where they usually remain during the day.

The temperature of this chmate is remarkable
for its regularity, seldom varying over fifteen de-
grees from one year to another, and 89 has been the
highest degree indicated on the meteorological tables
kept by Dr. J. A. Totten, surgeon of the station at
Navy Bay, during the year 1851.

CHAPTER XVII.

Leaving Navy Bay, Chagres, Fert San Lorenzo——Arrival at Gatun
Station—Resume our Journey in a Small Boat—A Night at Dos
Herminos—An Early Start—The River by Moonlight—A ppear-
ance of Morning—Breakfasting at Ahorca Lagata—The River
Scenery—Arrival at Bujio Saldado.

Arrer a few days spent on the Island of Manzan-
illa, the head quarters of the Panama Railroad
Company in Navy Bay, I left for the station as-
signed me at Bujio Saldado, up the Chagres River,
a distance of thirty miles. I had already become
impatient to see the interior of the country, and it
was with no small gratification that I went on board
the little iron steamer Gorgona, which was to take
us around the point, a distance of ten miles, to Cha-
gres, and from thence up the river to Gatun, a dis-
tance of nine more. Stopping an hour or two at
Chagres, I took a stroll along this smallest, and al-
together most miserable place in the world, that is
made the regular port of so many lines of.steam-
ships. Notwithstanding the deplorable aspect of
everything about Chagres, and the fact that gam-
_ bling and rum-selling are two conspicuous and often
outside occupations, yet it is not by any means des-
titute of respectable inhabitants. In the short time

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 1387

of my stay, | met with several New Yorkers—men
who, though accustomed to the refinements of life,
were here habited in coarse pants and red flannel
shirts, with cowhide boots upon their feet, the legs of
which were drawn over their pants—away from home,
from friends, or luxury, or comforts, and, worse than
all, too often with the unmistakable marks of miasma
and fever.. The only thing of interest about Chagres
is the old Spanish fortification. It is situated upon
a high, rocky point, and upon the left hand as the
mouth of the river is entered. Upon passing the
fort, the native town of Chagres is situated close
under its walls,-and consists of nothing more than a
collection of reed-huts thatched with palm leaves.
For two dimes I was taken across the river to the
native town, and passing through it commenced the
assent of the hill by a paved road which leads to a
level plat of ground in the rear of the fortification.
This road must have been built at the time the fort
was erected, yet it is in a good state of preservation,
and makes a pleasant although steep and circuitous
walk. Crossing the deep moat which separates the
front from the rear fort, upon the remnant of an
old draw-bridge, and then passing down a wide
flight of steps, the main plaza is reached between
the battlements which lock off in three directions,
and are at least one hundred and fifty feet high from
the sea which breaks upon its foundations on the one
side, and the river on the other. Some thirty or
forty old Spanish guns are lying about, with their
carriages crumbled to dust beneath them, some

138 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

being brass pieces of great calibre and beautiful
workmanship. The pavement of this plaza was laid
with cement, and et the apparent durability of one
immense solid stone, although it has faced the storms
of over two hundred years. Cannon balls and shells
lay scattered about, or piled up In pyramids, and the
magazine contains boxes of powder so decomposed
that it is no longer ignitable.

From this part of he fort a subterranean passage,
handsomely arched, and ten or twelve feet wide,
leads to underground apartments, deep back in the
hill; but answers to inquiries concerning them were
as unsatisfactory as the echoes which came back as
distinctly as they were uttered. J went in as far as
the light would reveal the way, against the advice
of a resident, who told me that a fever would be the
consequence of gratifying my curiosity ; but without
even discovering a reptile, which are said to con-
eregate in Fe places in great numbers. From
one apartment, the roof of which had long since rot-
ted away, a tree, eight or ten inches in diameter,
was growing thr rae with us green top reaching
far above the walls.

_ Notwithstanding the general impression that ma-
sonry cannot be made enduring in this climate, the
walls of this old work, to the cap stone and watch
towers, are seemingly as perfect now, in the main,
as they could have been a hundred and eighty-one
years ago, when Morgan, at the head of the Bucca-
neers, took it from the Spanish.

The banks of the river, from Chagres to Gatun,

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 13

are, for the most part of the way, low; and, as we
moved slowly along between them on the steamer,
the dark green foliage of the trees,.and the many
wild flowers and fruits every where appearing, pre-
sented the vegetation of this land of unchanging ver-
dure, in its most pleasing aspect.

As we approached the railroad station at Gatun,
with its storehouse, hospital, and habitations for two
or three hundred men, the efiect was strikingly sin-
gular in this country of almost unbroken forests and
sparcely scattered native huts.

As the Gorgona was not going on further, a small
boat was engaged, with two natives for oarsmen, and
in company with the commissary and superintendent,
we started out on our way. We had made but eight
miles ere the evening grew dark upon us, and we
hauled up to the shore at Dos Herminos, where a
rude sign, indicating entertainment for the traveller,
hung suspended from a pole in the bank. The in-
closure, which signifies a hotel here, was partly of
rough boards, and partly of canvas, with a canvas
covering, and in form an L. One extremity was
fitted up for a sleeping apartment, with canvas
stretched across rough poles, one above the other,
three deep; the other, the dining room, with a long
table through the centre capable of seating a hundred
persons, and short side-tables. At one of these we
drank our tea and ate a biscuit with a good relish,
notwithstanding the table reminded us of the scuttle-
deck of a vessel, and our seat was a narrow strip of
rough board, supported by stakes driven into the

140 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

ground, which constituted the only floor of the whole
concern. .

Discerning, at a little distance, a small habita-
tion which offered, apparently, a better chance of
comfort, Trapped at the door, and was bade come
in by the owner of the establishment, who was re-
clining on a bed of formidable dimensions, compared
with those he supplied for the public. As might
reasonably be expected, I found that he was sick,
and that he had been so for some months. He
cursed the country, yet clung to it for the sake of
making money, and when told that a more liberal
expenditure of his gains, which are large, for his
private protection and comfort, as well as for the
public, in the erection of suitable buildings to keep
out the rains at least, would, no doubt, save him
from sickness, he turned philosopher and answered
that he deserved all that he suffered, and it was a
consolation to him. Such was his apology for self-
inflicted misery, and such examples are by no means
uncommon in this country. A miserable economy
is practiced in all that pertains to personal comfort,
and for the protection of health, while, on the other
hand, a most wasteful extravagance is often indulged
in for the gratification of some idle whim, or to keep
up a character of apparent liberality.

For night quarters, we were permitted to make a
choice of the standees; but to find one the rain would
not reach, in case ofa shower, was somewhat diffi-
cult. Ihe ground was not only damp, but, in many
parts of the inelosure, decidedly wet, and every

THE ISTHMUS OF -PANAMA. 141

thing was musty, and covered with mould. We had
one hammock, which, from courtesy, was assigned
to me, and wrapping my cloak about me I turned in
and swung myself to sleep.

At two o’clock in the morning the commissary,
who claimed to always sleep with one eye open, dis-
covered starlight through an opening in the roof,
and calling our attention to it, proposed an early
start, to which we most readily acceded, and, as I
turned out, a chill ran through my frame, at which
I was not surprised after such a night, nor could I
wonder at the feverish habits of the people, who
live in such habitations as this.

To get our boatmen started was a work requiring
some patience, but finally, through the perseverance
of the commissary, it was effected, and we were
once moreunder way. ‘The night was beautiful, and
every sound was hushed save the dipping of the
oars, as we moved along on the bosom of the stream
over which the trees and mountain-tops cast their
shadows by the light of the declining moon, now
lost to view, and then again appearing as we follow-
ed the ever varying course of the river, or passed
from behind the summit ofa hill. Each one seemed
spell-bound, and scarce a word was uttered for hours
to break the solitude, which, like a pall spread over
the world, seemed to indicate that we were the only
survivors of the long night of death.

At last the grey hght of the morning appeared
in the eastern sky, and with it all nature became

reanimated; the forest songsters awoke and resumed
-

142 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

their melodious strains ; the moon had gone down,
the flickering stars had put out their lights, the
mountain-tops lit up with the first rays of the sun,
and the dark foliage of the forest appeared in its
brigbt hue of green, for the glorious morning was
fully broke upon us.

At eight o’clock we arrived at Ahorca Lagata, a
distance of eighteen miles from Gatun by the river,
although but nine onthe line of the Railroad. ‘This
station was under the superintendence of Mr. Miller,
with whom we breakfasted, and afterwards he took
us out upon his work, to show what he had done,
and what he was going to do, all of which was very
creditable to his perseverance and the industry of
his men.

We had a distance of eight miles yet to traverse
on the river, and we. hastened away, leaving our
hospitable host looking after us from the beach where
he had welcomed us so heartily but an hour before.
The day continued pleasant, and the high banks of |
the river presented an ever varying panorama of gor-
geous vegetation, adorned with wild flowers of the
richest hues, while here and there a large tree, rear-
ing its head above all surrounding objects, would
appear attired in the gay tints of the lilac. While
in the full enjoyment of the scene so varying and
beautiful, one of the boatmen cried out, “la Bujio,”
and sure enough the beautiful station of Bujio Sal-
dado was in full view.

CHAPTER XIX.

Bujio Saldado—The Station Buildings—The Ravine—A Torrent—
A Professional Call--Sharp Practice among the Natives—An Al-
calde’s House and what it Contained—-His Wife, and how she made
Soup.

Busio, or Buyo Soldado, signifies in the vernacular,
a soldier’s cottage, and received this name, according
to tradition, from the fact that-a soldier had been se-
creted and cared for here, by a native, in conse-
quence of some service he had rendered one of their.
Padras or Priests, during the war of the buccaneers.
Previous to passing into the hands of the Panama
Railroad Company, the place had been occupied by:
a few native huts, and as a rosa for corn, plantains,
bananas, &c. I have spoken of it as the beautiful
station, and as such, it will be considered by the
future traveller, who views it under anything like
favorable circumstances, although it is, no doubt,
destined to undergo, hereafter, a very material
change. 3

The station buildings occupy a position on the
bend of the river Chagres, commanding a view of
about half a mile above and below, which is about
as extensive a prospect as can any where be found

144 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

on this exceedingly tortuous stream. The building
erected for the officers of the Company, is on a level
plat of ground, elevated about thirty feet from the
low water-mark of the river, and looks directly down
upon it from a neat veranda.

Near by, a deep rivine comes in, down which, dur-
ing the rainy season, a mountain torrent rushes with
great velocity. Many a time have I followed the
almost dry bed of this rivulet far back into the
mountains, the steep sides of which it would be al-
most impossible to climb, and afterwards, perhaps
the next day, a stream, ten or twelve feet deep,
would rush furiously down, gathering flood-wood
from the fallen trees of the last dry season, building
up obstructions, and then break away, undermining
huge trees, and bearing them, root and branch, into
the river below. At one time, after about three
hour’s hard rain, my attention was attracted by a
sound as of a water-fall, and on looking out, I found
this stream so swollen, and pouring down with such
impetuosity, that its current extended directly across
the Chagres, a distance of at least one hundred
yards, and washed to a considerable extent into
the opposite bank, notwithstanding the bed of the
ravine was nearly level, for thirty or forty rods back
towards the mountains. When the stream subsided,
it was found that large trees which had fallen across,
from bank to bank, had been swept away, although
they were elevated ten feet from the usual water level.
I am particular in relating this, as these torrents pre-
sent a serious obstacle to contend with, in the prose-

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 145

cution of public works in this country, and interfere
so materially with the navigation of its streams.

I had scarcely become settled in my new abode,
when one day Gavino, our Spanish boy, whose duty it
was to attend to the comforts of the officers, informed
me that two hombras were waiting to see Sefior Me-
dico. JI directed him to invite them in, and learned
that they wished me to go and prescribe for a sick
man about five miles down the river, at the house of
an alealde named San Antonio. At first I declined
their invitation altogether, but as they still persisted,
I finally told them that I should charge ten dollars,
with the view of putting a stop to their importunities ;
but, to my surprise, they readily assented, saying
that I should be promptly paid if I would go. After
this almost unparalleled exhibition of confidence in
my skill, I believe I should have been inclined to go
without any other terms whatever. The messengers
soon started homeward to announce my expected
arrival, while I ordered two oarsmen, and with a
companion, proceeded down the river. Landing
about a mile above the ranch, we walked that dis-
tance along a level and hard-beaten path, through a
grove of palmetto palms. On arriving at San An-
tonio’s, his wife, a fine looking woman, with black
eyes, erect figure, and more than usual white skin,
received us very politely. Her house was one of the
best I had seen in the country, the walls being plas-
tered on the outside with mud, and internally divided
into two apartments, with split reeds. On looking
about, as I seated myself on a rude bench, my atten-

146 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

tion was attracted by the occupation of a woman
engaged in the process of cooking. The fire was
built between three stones, which supported an iron
kettle, into which she was depositing jerked beef
cut into small fragments, rice, yams, and bananas,
which, being stewed together, makes a favorite soup
for these people; while the smoke of the fire found
egress through numerous apertures which are always
left as a matter of necessity, or for that purpose, in
these tenements. An earthen vessel, sufiiciently large
to contain ten gallons, was in one corner, filled with
water, which not only becomes clear by the depo-
sit of its sediment in this way, but, from evapora-
tion on the surface as it gradually percolates, it is
rendered considerably cooler. The apartment was
fully oceupied with. barrels, boxes, and such lke
trumpery, containing various articles In common
use, while over-head were hanging, in rich profusion,
plantains, bananas, corn braided in strings by the
husks, jerked beef, hams, &c., for ‘San Antonio is a
rich man, and provides entertainment for travellers.

Having thus taken a cursory glance at the con-
tents of the domicil, and finding that the natives
were fast accumulating, I inquired for the patient, .
to which query I was answered, not a little to my
surprise, that the sick man lived a great distance
back from the river. On receiving this intelligence,
I concluded it would be best to immediately return,
and consequently started, upon which our benevo-
lent host offered to treat, and at the same time said
that there was a sick man, or rather two of them, in

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 147

a rear hut, and she would like to have me prescribe
for them, to which I readily assented, and at once
proceeded to see the patients, mistrusting instantly
the game, and deciding to practice accordingly.
Having ascertained that one of the invalids was in
the last stages of consumption, and that the other
was nenidted with inflammation of the lungs, I return-
ed to the presence of the handsome Sefiora, who im-
mediately inquired for the nature of the diseases,
and their remedies, to which I as promptly replied,
that my opinion and remedies would cost her ten
dollars. At this answer she afiected great astonish-
ment, and refused to comply with my terms 5 conse-
quently I left, and had paver about tn rods
without even okie back, when f£ heard the call of
Sefior Medico! and turning around, I discovered the
messengers who had first oe to me, and who to
this moment had kept out of sight, and of whom, I
am sorry to say,-the fair mistress had denied any
knowledge. Finding that [ was resolute in my de-
termination not to prescribe without the stipulated
fee, they finally counted out seven dollars and sixty
cents in frane pieces, and imploringly begged that I
would trust them for the balance necessary to make
ten dollars their currency, which was acceded to; I
proceeded to prepare the necessary remedies, and
directing their administration, once more started
homeward, at the same time requesting them to send
to me on the next day, and I would furnish still fur-
ther means for the patients’ relief. After dividing
the money with my comrades, and purchasing

148 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

bananas, I returned, heartily pleased with my suc-
cessful practice, in the collection of the fee, to wait
the result on the patients. On the third day after-
wards I received word that the one afflicted with
consumption had died, as I had predicted; and
that the other was fast getting well, so that no
further medicines would be required, and therefore
the value in money would be equally acceptable.
Tor declining to accede to this proposition I plead
the usages of my country, but it was not satisfac-
tory; and I was afterwards informed that it was their
sanguine intention to shoot me the first time I
passed that way.

OTA PTR Xs

Why a Swiss loves his Native Country—When Days come Slow, and

go Wearily—River Travel—How we took in Strangers, and were

~ taken in Ourselves—-Our Neighbors—How to preserve Beef—A

new Patient—Sefior Sipreon’s House, and what he Eat, and how

he Cooked it--My Patient’s case grows Desperate-—He prepares to
Die, but does not do it-—Natives’ notions of Railroads. |

A Swiss, on being asked why he was so attached -to
his native country, answered, that there were rocks
and mountains upon which he fixed his affections.
That the physical aspect of a country may have
much influence over the stability of its inhabitants,
we have not much reason to doubt, but while the
Swiss would attach himself to an Alpine crag, and
never wish to be removed, I believe such is not often
the effect with foreigners, neither is it the case on
the Isthmus of Panama.

When once the mountains and the valleys, the
beasts and the birds, with the palm and the plantain,
have become familiar things, and above all, when
social intercourse is restricted to a narrow and un-
congenial circle, and the mind has little occupation
except in wandering fancies, then will the days come
slowly, any go wearily away. Months have already

150 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

passed since I came into this summer land of sun-
shine and showers, and, like the climate, my duties
have been one almost unvarying round from day to
day, and I am beginning to appreciate, as I never
did before, the blessed privilege enjoyed by those
who live in a land of changing seasons, civilized so-
ciety, and completed railroads. The fleet of boats
which pass every two weeks, conveying passengers
to and from Panama and Uhagres, on the arrival of
the steamers at these ports, is a spectacle of the
greatest interest of any that comes under our obser-
vation; and it is truly wonderful sometimes to see
the number of people going to or coming from the
land of gold. :
On one of these occasions, about nine o’clock in
the evening, after a rainy day, an application was
made on behalf of “four ladies,” for the privilege
of a shelter for the night; the party having been out
in the rain all day, the night being dark, and the
river rapidly rising, they had found it impossible to
proceed any further. Of course a simple feeling of
hospitality dictated a cordial welcome, and every
one who could claim a cot, immediately resigned it
to the service of the guests; but this was not. all,
the possibility of seeing four ladies on the Isthmus,
had not been even dreamed of, and the fact that they
- were reported genuine, was a feature of great inter-
est, especially those who had not feasted their eyes
on such a sight for six months. Gavino having been
directed to put the kettle on for a ‘cup of hot tea,
and the steward ordered to take four of the best

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 151

cots, with. the best mosquitoe bars, and arrange them
in the largest room up stairs, we sat down to wait
the arrival of our visitors. It was a period of great
interest, and to render the prospect as fair as possi-
ble, some one had taken the responsibility of increas-
ing the expense of the occasion, in the way of an
extra number of lights. Presently we heard their
footsteps, and then in they came, but O, Jupiter !
what a set; instead of four “ladies,” they were but
four women and four babies! !. Their wet garments
hung about them in a manner perfectly shocking to
behold, or even contemplate, and they looked forlorn
and wretched, although they may not have felt so.
They were evidently natives of the green isle, and
the eldest, a very sensible woman, about forty-five,
and the mother of the four children, was on her
way to join her husband in California, with no other
protector than a boy about fifteen years of age. We
made them comfortable, and for the time, apparently
happy, for which they were very thankful, and we
were very glad in having been able to do so.

A little distance from the station were situated
two native huts, one occupied by a man and his wife,
with almost any number of children, and the other
by a solitary old man named Stpreon, who was es-
teemed wealthy, owning lands very indefinitely de-
fined, on which he cultivated a rosa, or plantation,
back from the river, and kept a great number of
cattle. My first interview with the old man was on
being called to see a friend who had come to visit
him, and fallen sick with inflammation of the lungs.

152 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

He had been out that day to catch a beef, and had
it already strung up in quarters, inside his house,
and was busy cutting it in strings to dry, as New
England people do pumpkins, It is after being cured
in this way, that it is sold by the yard in some places,
and it is the only way by which it can be preserved
in this country, for if packed in the ordinary manner,
it will spoil in spite of salt or brine. The strips are
cut from the muscle, or lean parts, free from fat,
and then rolled in fine salt, and hung immediately
in the sun to dry.

Sefior Sipreon’s house was better than is usually
found, having the thatch, on one side, extending
nearly to the ground, making -an extra room; and it
was in this that I found my patient, on a shelf made
of split reeds.

As I called from day to day, I sometimes found
the old man preparing his homely meal, solitary
and alone. It consisted of jerked beef, rice, yams,
&c., stewed together, and sometimes, as an extra, a
roasted plantain. He was at least sixty years old,
and often told me that he had not had the fever for
the last forty. My patient’s case grew desperate, and
I finally told the neighbor’s wife, who was a relative,
and nursed him, that I was fearful he would not
recover: therefore, on my next visit, I found him
dressed in white pants, hose, and a clean linen shirt;
but notwithstanding this unfavorable omen, I had
the satisfaction to see him afterwards perfectly re-
stored.

These people seemed, in some measure, interested

THE ISTHMUS CF PANAMA. 153

in the railroad, and when platform cars were put on
the track for moving stone and timber, they evi-
dently, for some time, considered it the ultimatum
of the great wonder, and would often get their friends
together from a distance, and. shove them over the
road as far as the track was laid; but one day I wit-
nessed a scene of astonishment to be equalled only
on communicating to them the fact, that rain falls
in the United States, for a part of the year, in light
flakes, and covers the earth white; and that the
rivers become solid, so that men and horses can tra-
vel over them. A party was assembled, when acom-
panion who had been at Navy Bay and seen a loco-
motive and the passenger cars, commenced a descrip-
tion, which if as expressive in language as it was in
gestures, as he described the motions of the engine,
and depicted the sounds of escaping steam, and its
velocity, itcertainly must have conveyed a very ac-
curate impression of its character; that it did, I
have reason to believe, from the fact that the plat-
form cars were henceforth abandoned, and treated
as things of the least possible consequence.

CH-APTimR. X Xf.

Leaving Bujio Soldado—A Day on the Chagres River-—Arrival at
Navy Bay—-Visiting the Minde Swamp——Native Cooking—Gather-
ing Cocoanuts, &ec., &e.

Arter three months’ confinement to professional du-
ties at Bujio Soldado, I packed up to be ready for
the first opportunity to come down the river to Navy
Bay. <A recent attack of fever had exhausted, in a
good degree, my small stock of vitality, and I there-
fore resolved to take the steamer, and thus avoid the
liability of being subjected to a night on the river,
in an open boat, with the chances of a drenching
rain. There are but three steamers on the Rio
Chagres, that goup as high as Gorgona, and it was
seldom that they ever stopped at the railroad sta-
tions. After having waited patiently for six days,
the glad sound of the whistle of the steamer Mille,
announced her approach, on her way down, she hay-
ing passed up two days previous. I was soon on
board, with a dozen laborers from the station, who
had served out their time, and for the first time, per-
haps, for weeks, were made to look cheerful, from
the thoughts of home, each having been furnished
with a certificate, which entitled him to a free

ia

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 155

passage to the States. It was truly pleasing to
watch the sudden change from the care-worn, woe-
begone countenance that I had observed from day
to day, to one of comparative cheerfulness, and as
we started off, one poor fellow, who had been sick
and sadly frightened, gave utterance to his feelings
in addressing me, “* Well, Doctor, I no go on the Iill
now.” ‘On the hill” was the burying-ground.

We had hardly got under way, and in the full en-
joyment of the prospect of a pleasant trip down the
river, when I was called to prescribe for the Captain,
who I had observed to take frequent draughts of wa-
ter, which were invariably deposited over the guards
into the stream again, from which it had been dip-
ped. I found him burning with fever, yet under the
necessity of performing the double duty of com-
mander and pilot; nor was this the worst of it: the
engineer was left behind sick, the fireman had
just “‘ given out,” and the crew consisted of but two
men besides, and one of these was a raw Spaniard,
who had never been upon a steamboat before, and
unable to understand a word of English, and, conse-
quently, when told to “come here,” would be likely »
to go there, or to “haul in,” wouldlet go. This was
an interesting state of things, truly, on board of a
high-pressure steamer, which suggested the idea that
the chances were about equal for a passage to Kter-
nity, as to any place on this sphere, even Chagres.

Happening to know a man on board who had
steered a flat-boat down the Mississippi, I suggested
that he should take the Captain’s place at the helm,

156 THE‘ ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

which was done, and the latter spread his coat upon
the deck and laid down, while I administered the
remedies. J next went in search of the fireman,
whom I soon found, and put under treatment also.
Our boat was going on swimmingly, and soon my
patients were in the same condition, for the perspi- -
ration started out in large drops, and they were then
relieved. Hight miles below, at Ahorca Legata, the
steamer was to stop and take on some more men,
that being a railroad station also, and by this time,
the Captain was again able to take the helm. About
the same number were taken on board here, and
with low water in the boiler, the word was hurried-
lv given to cast off; but the substitute for an en-
gineer was unable to start the engine forward, the
current caught the bow, and in a moment we were
swept close in shore, beneath an overhanging tree,
which struck the smoke-pipe, and it came tumbling
down among us;. but being expert at the dodge, all
hands escaped. To let off the steam and put out the
fires, was now the only alternative. This being done,
with the help of the passengers, the pipe was again
_raised, the boiler filled, and the fire re-kindled. We
were flattering ourselves with the prospect of being
soon.again under way, when, lo! the packing flew
out, and away escaped the steam as fast as generated.
To cool off was again indispensably necessary, in_or-
der to re-pack the boiler-head, and this measure in-
volved a consumption of fuel which rendered it ne-
cessary to ‘‘wood up” before leaving. To do this the
Captain and one hand went ashore in the only small

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 157

boat of the steamer to search for wood, which he
was fortunate in finding, and in order to hasten
matters, he accepted the services of a volunteer on
shore to row out to us with the small boat load-
ed, while, with his assistant, he furnished another
load from the pile, a distance from the shore. The
volunteer proved not to be expert in the use of oars,
and soon capsized, the boat going down the stream,
while he, with a good deal of effort in the use of his
arms and legs, finally got on shore. We were now
in a pretty predicament, the Captain and one hand
on shore, without any means of returning to the
steamer, with but two hands to man the vessel, and
not sufficient fuel to raise steam. ‘The only expe-
dient was hit upon, viz., to cut away and burn the
stanchions and flag-staff; this being done, we finally
reached the shore, “wooded up,” and started once
more on our way. I am happy to say we reached
Chagres that night, without any further serious ad-
ventures, and the next day, on board the Gorgona, I
arrived at Navy Bay.

On arriving here, I found it necessary that I
should visit some native laborers at the Minde
Swamp, a distance of about five miles, four and a
half by water, up the bay, and half a mile by land.
Taking coffee at 6 o’clock in the morning, and in
company with Mr. King, the superintendent, with
good oarsmen, we started out on our daily trip.
The morning “en was delightful; and on reaching the
station, we generally found breakfast prepared,
which consisted of fried plantains, coffee, and some

158 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

kind of salt meat, boiled yams, and sometimes pota-
toes and hard bread. Our cook wasa native; his
fire was by the side of a green stump near by, and
his utensils consisted of a frying pan and a tin coffee-
pot. ‘To do justice to such a breakfast, it was abso-
lutely necessary to have a good appetite, and.a ride
of four and a half miles would usually furnish this
essential. Our house consisted of a board shanty,
built roof shape, and divided into two apartments,
the larger one being occupied by the natives, and
principally for the women, children, and sick, who
were severely afilicted with calentura, or fever, and
the other for ourselves and the station stores,
such as barrels of beef, pork, yams, hard bread, &c.,
&c. After prescribing for the sick, L usually amused
myself in looking up birds of beautiful plumage,
and blossoms of gorgeous hues, for an hour or two,
and then return. One day on our return, we went
into a little cove and sent the men after cocoanuts,
which we could see in great quantities along the
beach. They soon brought their arms full, and
opening one we drank our fill of the delicious milk,
under the protest of one of them, who said that it
would give us calentura. We did not experience
any thing of the fever predicted, but before we
reached home a squall struck us, which made me
horribly sea sick, and effectually spoiled the relish
of the cocoanut for that night. '

CHAP TER.«XX LT.

Leaving Navy Bay—The Rolling Sea and Tropic Summer without
Change—-The Steamer that could not goup the River, and conse-
quently went down—A Day on the Chagres in a Canoe goiug up—
Shooting Game on the River—A queer Bird—an attack of Fever.

Tue period of my sojourn at Navy Bay having ex-
pired, I left for Ahorca, Lagata, the station alluded
to in the last chapter.

Se accustomed are we to view everything
around us in a condition of change, that it is almost
impossible to conceive, and more difficult to realize,
anything really permanent. Sitting, as I often did
at Navy Bay, to watch the waves as they rolled in
upon the shore, I would sometimes forget that the
sea is “‘restless,” and wonder when it would stop.

To those who have been accustomed to the
changing seasons of the land of owr homes, it is more
than all else difficult to conceive of an eternal sum.
mer—no autumn, no winter, no spring, but ceaseless,
endless summer—with no change to mark the pro-
gress of time but a season of drenching rains, alter-
nating with one of scorching sunshine with the forest
and the field ever clothed in its rich verdure of green.

‘L160 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

As I count the months which have already passed
since [ have been a dweller in this land, I sometimes
unconsciously wonder why they do not come—the
cool breezes of Autumn—but it is of no use, for they
will never come. We are in the dominions of old
Sol, who holds a flery sceptre, and looks down upon
us daily with a burning rage, which makes poor
mortais covet a place beneath ascreen from his fleree
eye. So has it been since Adam was placed in Pai-
adise, and it may yet have been but the beginning
of this long summer, for who knows when it will
end ¢

In my last letter I gave you a sketch of a day on
the Chagres, “ going down,” and now I must com-
plete the account of my trip by another day, coming
up. On leaving Navy Bay, we came around the
point on the coast, and entered the mouth of the
river at Chagres, in the R. R. Co.’s steamer Gorgo-
na, to the station at Gatun. At 3 0’clock, P. M., I
embarked on board the steamer Swan, bound up the
river to Bujio Saldado, where I was first stationed.
This little craft is the smallest on the river propelled
by steam, and I found her manned by three boys.
I was a solitary passenger, and being provided with
a blanket, was prepared to make anight of it. But
in this I was disappointed. We had. gone but a
mile, when the tiller chain broke, and the command
to “stop her,” wascried ont by the Captain, at the
wheel, to prevent running into the bank, or on a
snag. Not having an anchor aboard, we were of
course at the mercy of the current, which, like the

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 161

tide, as Byron has it, “leads, God knows where”’;
but, in this case, most likely to the bottom of the
river. To connect the ends of the chain was but a
short job, but it was of no use, for the rudder would
not mind the wheel after it was done; and thus we
floated down a mile and a half, in constant peril of
striking a rock, a snag, or having the smoke-pipe or
upper works swept off by overhanging trees, and in
such an event most likely beg blown up. In this
critical state of affairs, I discovered, very much to
my satisfaction, a small boat, which [ hailed, and for
dos pasos, which I readily counted out, I was taken
back to the station at Gatun. In the evening, I had
the satisfaction of hearing the little steamer puffing
up to the landing, where she tied up for the night.
I next embarked in a canoe, manned by two na-
tives, an old man and his son. As I stepped into it
with my valise, the considerate native placed a piece
of board, about four feet long and eight or ten inches
wide, in the bottom, and offering me his extra flannel
shirt, folded for a pillow, motioned for me to lie
down, which, however, I graciously declined, prefer-
ring to use my overcoat for that purpose, when
necessary, which proved to be the case before the
day was ended. We were well armed, the older
hombre having a very suspicious looking musket,
while the hombrecite was furnished with his machete,
(a heavy, sword-like knife,) and I had a smal! fowl-
ing-piece, Which had been presented to me at the
Bay by a sailor, to whom I had rendered a profes-
sional service. Thusarmed and equipped, we started
Qi

162 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

up stream on a journey of eighteen miles, which took
these hombres seven long hours to accomplish, with
their paddles, against the strong current. I could
not help thinking how some of my Batavia friends
would have enjoyed my place that day, for scarce-
ly a moment passed but some bird of beautiful
plumage would fly past, or apparently wait upon the
branch of a tree to be shot, or a large fat zguana,
(an animal of the lizard species, which are frequently
found four or five feet long,) would show himself in
the grass, or upon the boughs of the trees over-
hanging the stream; or perhaps a lazy alligator,
sunning himself upon the beach, and I know not how
many other kinds of game a sharp eye would have
detected; but lL presume many, from the fact that
although [kept a look-out a part of the time, yet the
natives often signified to me. by signs that game was
within shot, which I could not see; and in one in-
stance, they hauled intv the shore, and the hombre-
cite grasped the musket and rushed into the thick
bushes out of sight, and while I was wondering
“what game was up,” the loud report of his piece
indicated that a death must have occurred at one end
or the other of it at least. My curiosity was soon
relieved by his return, dragging along a guarro, or
wild hog, which the natives consider a great delicacy.
Wild turkeys were very numerous, as well as par-
rots and paroquets, but my back gave very sensible
signs of approaching fever, and I was too intent upon
arriving at my destination to give it rest, to improve,
with any great degree of zest, the opportunity,

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 163

although I took off the heads of a couple of large
iguano, and clipped on the wing a peculiar, long-
necked, soldier-like bird, which falling into the water,
we took in. On examination I found one wing in-
jured, which I dressed as best I could, for which
kindness he seemed to like my company, and stood
up with his head erect, peering at me the rest of the
way; but when we landed, he very deliberately
walked off, as much as to say, “I don’t care longer
to continue your acquaintance.”

As I anticipated, I had hardly arrived at my
quarters, ere a burning fever set in, and I reeled to
my cot, to remain in something more than tolerable
temperature for the night; but thanks to the sover-
eign remedy, quinine, I had no return of it the next
day.

CHAPTER: A XITT:

Ahorea Lagata—A Thunder Storm—Another Visit to Chagres—Ap-
pearance of Manzanilla, going out the Harbor—Capt. Chapman
and his Adventures—A Wreck of Humanity—A trip down the Bay
after Shells—<A speck at Sea, and what it turned out to be—De-
parture Homeward.

Anorca Lacata signifies, according. to the natives’
version, “‘to hang a cat;” but when, or under what
circumstances such a sentence was executed on a
member of the feline race, tradition says not.

The station is situated on a narrow point between
the Chagres river and a deep ravine, and is the first
place where that stream comes to view after leaving
Gatun by the railroad. It is as wild a place as
need be at any time, but especially so during the
rainy season, when the showers are frequent, and the
vivid glare of the lightning dazzles the eye, and the
loud peals of thunder break upon the ear with a
deafening crash, and the rain comes down as though
the clouds had felt the shock and deposited their
contents in one mighty torrent.

The work having become nearly completed and
the laborers transferred to other stations, or returned
to the States, it became no longer necessary for me to

THE ISTIMUS OF PANAMA. 165

remain, consequently [ improved the first opportuni-
ty to come down the river to Navy Bay and remain
until the time should come on which I was to em-
bark on my homeward voyage. When the time
was once set on which I was to leave the Isthmus,
how wearily, oh! how wearily did those days pass
on which I waited the arrival of the steamer that
was to bear me away to the old familiar scenes of
other days, that a tropic sun had brightened on my
memory—-so far, faraway in the North. It seemed
as though swift-winged time had stayed her progress,
and was determined not to go on, without the slight-
est regard for my wishes.

After a few of the days so anxiously to be dispos-
ed of were passed, Lavailed myself of an opportuni-
ty by the Gorgona to once more visit Chagres. The
morning was clear and beautiful, and as we moved
out from the harbor, the sun, which had just risen
from his golden-fringed hammock’in the east, shed
down such a flood of light upon the little settlement
of Navy Bay, that, with its white houses and scat-
tered cocoanut trees, it looked more than ever like
a fairy scene just opening to the view, contrasting
widely with the opposite shore, skirted by the almost
impenetrable forest, the dark emerald green foliage
of which gently fluttered in the morning air, reveal-
ing the dew-drops as they glittered in the sunbeams.

Being fairly under way, Capt. Chapman, who had
the temporary charge of the Gorgona, seated him-
self on the hurricane deck, at his usual look-out, and
commenced turning over to me the pages of his large

166 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

volume of unpublished adventures, which had oceur-
red during the many years he had spent upon
the seas, in which time he had made more than
twenty voyages from the port of New York to the
coast of South America. The topic had turned to
the recent burning of the steam propeller La Fayette,
at Chagres, which he had endeavored to tow into
shoal water while her hull was but one great chal-
dron, from which streamed forth the lvid flame,
casting its lurid glare upon all surrounding objects ;
but in this he was unsuccessful, and she went down
with all that was valuable in her beyond the hopes
of wreckers. This ledto the wrecking by him of a
vessel up the coast, a few years since, on which he
found, as part of the cargo, a large number of cases
of tropical birds, beautifully prepared, and shipped
for England by a gentleman at Bogota. The orni-
thological specimens, although beautiful, he did not
deem convertible .into cash, nor good to eat, so he
consigned them to the deep, in his search for more
valuable salvage ; in which, however, he was not
very successful, and therefore left the vessel to go
to pieces on the reef, not much richer than when he
found her, to learn afterwards, that the birds he had
thrown overboard were worth the moderate sum of
thirty thousand dollars.

On arriving at Chagres, as I was passing through
one of the public houses, I observed on a settee a
iniserable wreck of humanity, whom I discovered, as
he accosted me, to be one of the hands that was on
the Swan at the time of going up the river, and who

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 167

commenced singing and dancing ‘‘ Jump Jim Crow”
when we were in our worst plight. On inquiring
the cause of his present condition, I learned that he
had been capsized and nearly crushed to death in
attempting to save the Swan, which some rascal had
cut loose from her moorings at Chagres, to float out
to sea, and was perhaps more totally wrecked than
himself. One of our party having called for me, I
hastily administered my most consoling ‘‘ hopes”
that his ‘hull’ would, bear repairs, and started for
the door, which I had hardly reached when he hailed
me again: ‘ Doctor, you remember the Captain of
the Mille, you came down the river with?’ “ Yes.”
“Well, Ae is dead.” Heuttered this in such a tone
of despair, and at the same time dropping his head,
that I could not help pitying him, notwithstanding
the hardihood he had exhibited on the former occea-
sion. I turned away and thought of what the Cap-
tain of the Mille had said when I saw him last—
and now that he was dead !

I have been down the Bay since then, and as I
was strolling along the beach, picking up shells,
which are found here in great variety, I sat down to
rest, and looking out upon the water I saw a nauti-
lus, and as I watched it, tossing upon the rippling
sea, I thought how strangely it was like man, tossing
about upon the sea of life; and watching still, as it
came near, to my surprise a heavy ripple threw it
on the shore, from which I thought it must be dead ;
but it was not, yet its rippled race was run, and as
I examined it, the thought was forced upon me, if I,

168 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

too, should stand upon the shore of time, would there
not a being as unlike, and superior, stand upon that
shore to receive me? With these thoughts [ turned
away, and espied near by an alligator, andas [looked
at him he opened his mouth as though he was under
the impression that I was good to eat; but picking up
a large pebble, I luckily tossed it down his throat,
which he evidently considered a sample of the hard-
ness of my heart, and altered his mind, and made way
for the Minde river, which was near at hand.* *

When that dark speck appeared away out where
the horizon meets the sea, and grew more and more
distinct, I wondered if it were possible that it would
bear me home. Andas I watched it still, 1 became
convinced of what I could not realize, for it was the
Ohio, riding proudly by to her moorings at Chagres.
When once more, and for the last time, I looked
back from the Gorgona upon Manzanilla and her
beautiful harbor, I thought that I would love again,
at some distant day, to view this scene and mark
the change that time and enterprise will soon make
there. ‘That time is not far hence when the readers
of this will view the scene I have attempted to
describe, though I may not. When once more my
footsteps were upon the deck of the good ship Ohio,
I felt that familiar things were about me, and they
reminded me more vividly of home—and my
thoughts went homeward.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Jamaica—The Harbor at Kingston—Water Imps-—Fruits—A Ride
to Spanish Town--How we got a Dinner and paid for it-—-The
Public Square-—Desolation.

On the morning of the fourth day after leaving
Chagres, we made the island of Jamaica, and as we
sailed along the coast, the mountains seemed to rear
their heads higher and higher, and to appear more
and more barren, while, on the lowlands, the vegeta-
tion became more and more distinct and luxuriant in
appearance, until we entered the harbor of Kingston.
This harbor is one of Nature’s very singular and be-
neficent provisions for the necessities of our race.
Across the mouth of a shallow bay, a narrow break-
water extends from one point nearly to the other, a
distance of about four miles, leaving barely room
for the convenient passage of vessels in and out.
Upon the end of this natural embankment is situated
a fortification, having full command of the entrance.
So low is this point, the surface being scarcely above
the level of the sea, and few of the edifices more than
one story, with the low ranges of batteries radiating
in every direction seaward, that its appearance is
altogether comical compared with the more formi-

170 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

dable works usually to be seen upon the entrance of
the old Spanish ports 5 yet, with its white sand beach,
skirted with cocoanut trees, it makes an exceedingly
pleasant impression. On entering the harbor the
sailing course is along parallel with the breakwater,
about four miles, to Kingston, which lies on the main
coast upon the left hand. The harbor, in its whole
length, is about five miles, and, on an average, I
should think two wide. Kingston is a fair sample of
an old Spanish town going to decay, with here and
there a prop from English enterprise, contrasting
strongly with everything native. The population is
said to be about 60,000 or 70,000, mostly creoles
and negroes, with hive and er an English face,
that lots not seem altogether at home.

‘Scarcely had our ship made fast before a swarm
of little imps appeared in the sea about her, calling
out to the passengers, ‘“‘ Massa, give me a dime ?”
While wondering how the request could be complied
with, if so benevolently inclined, some one will teach
the lesson by skipping one at as great a distance as
possible from them, to see the sport of their struggle
to obtain it, which they are sure to do, by turning
in the water with the expertness of an eel, and fol-
lowing the course of the glittering coin, which is
usually grasped before it reaches the bottom, and
exhibited on rising to the surface, and then stowea
away in the mouth. ‘he pier was soon loaded with
baskets of every conceivable size and shape, contain-
ing oranges, lemons, mangoes, and many other fruits
and nuts, while bananas, pine apples, &c., were

THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 171

piled about in rich profusion, with gorgeous “ turk’s
heads,” and other tropical plants and fruits, all of
which our ship was soon made to bear in great quan-
tities, giving its deck much the appearance of a
floating garden. The delicious sweet chirimoya, or
‘“‘ sweet sop,” as it is familiarly called, is to be found
here in its greatest perfection, resembling very much
a custard, but of a more delicate flavor. Mangoes
are divided numerically into eleven qualities or
kinds, the eleventh being the smallest and choicest
fruit. On going ashore, we found the carriagé pass
closed by a heavy gate, and consequently were
obliged to make our entree to the street, first, through
a long shop, overflowing with all kinds of knick-
nacks, and from thence through a drinking saloon,
out a narrow door, between two sable sentinels,
whose eyes glistened scarcely less than their polish-
ed arms.

Wandering about the town, we stumbled upor,
or rather into, the railroad depot, and finding a train
of cars would soo: leave for Spanish Town, the
seat of government, ve took our seats in one for a
ride, having first paid three shillings sterling, each,
while the common people were privileged, in the
car next to us, for one. The road runs near the
coast most of the way, on low ground, and therefore
not much cultivated; but along either side was a
hedge of aloes, which, with their thick leaves armed
with thorns sticking out in every direction, presented
a very formidable obstacle to get over; indeed, we
believe a locomotive was never known to run into
them.

172 THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

On arriving at Spanish Town, distant thirteen
miles from Kingston, we took a vehicle and requested
to be drove to the best hotel in the place, and accord-
ingly were soon left upon the veranda of an old
building that was evidently more worn out by time
that use. At first we were in doubt whether or not
the place was inhabited, but finally a boy appeared
to whom we gave our order for a dinner for three.
The idea seemed to astonish him at first, but he
finally recovered his composure, and soon the pre-
parations were seen in a state of progress. Our din-
ner was really a good one, for which a formidable
bill of items was presented, amounting in all to
17. 10s. 6d. sterling, Travellers may always be sure
that if they order anything here, without stipulating
a price, it will be “ calculated” they are able to pay
a large one.

On our way to the depot, we strolled through the
public square, which occupies one block, and faced
upon the four sides by the public buildings, which
are as quaint and old as need be, yet erected with a
good deal of pretence to elegance, originally. In
front of one, which I took to be the Governor’s pa-
lace, were two more of the sable race in regimentals
—yet evidently for custom’s sake, for they were the
only individuals in sight, although we walked about
the square, examining the flowers and plants (for it
is a garden) nearly halfan hour. We left the city,
feeling that it had, indeed, been deserted.

wi PY BN DIX ot.

Meteorological Journal kept at Manzanilla Island, New Gran-
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during the months of June, July, August and September, 1851,

By E. L. BERTHOUD, Civil Engineer.

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A PPBFN DIX N Gz 92,

For the interest of those who intend crossing the isthmus of
Panama, I have inquired at the office of the Panama Railroad
Co., in this city, to ascertain the present stage in the progress of
that work, and how far it is made to serve the interest of the
travelling public.

The track has been mostly laid for some time from Navy
Bay to Bujio Soldado, a distance of about twenty miles by the
Railroad, and thirty-five miles up the river, from Chagres. The
only point incomplete is that between Gatun and Ahorea Lagata,
where the work was delayed in a measure by the rainy season.

Probably before the first day of January, 1852, the cars will
be running from Navy Bay to Ahorca Lagata, or Bujio Soldado
and from thence passengers will be obliged to employ small boats
for the remaining distance to Gorgona. During the dry season
which embraces the months of December, January February,
March and April, the road between Gorgona and Panama, a dis-
tance of about twenty miles, is a good one for transit by mules,
which is the only land conveyance in this country.

With the commencement of the present dry season, the
Panama Railroad Co. put on the road an increased number of
men, and the work is now being pushed forward with the ut-
most energy, and it without doubt will be completed to the river
' crossing at Gorgona, by the first of May next, if not before
that time. ,

Whatever may be the inconveniences and difficulties eneoun-
tered in crossing the Isthmus of Panama at present, the public

180 APPENDIX.

may be assured that it is by far the shortest, cheapest, and every
way best route to the Pacific, and especially for those who go to
California, and must carry a considerable amount of luggage.

_The necessary expense in crossing the Isthmus varies from
$25 to $35, according to circumstances, and the amount of
luggage for such individual.

New York, Dee. 16th, 1851.

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