Tage ne pl pani x MEASNES, Givi No ACNG DE C20: 1873 All rights reserved PRHFACH. Towarps the end of the month of May 1865, I was at Sydney at the time H.M. steam frigate ‘Curacoa,’ com- manded by Commodore (now Admiral) Sir William Wiseman, was preparing to leave for the purpose of displaying the British flag in the different archipelagoes of the Western Pacific. The Commodore, whose acquaintance I had been fortunate enough to make at Sydney, taking a kind interest in my love of exploring, and authorised by a circular letter which I had obtained from Lord John Russell, invited me to accompany him, and obligingly proposed to me to become his guest during the Cruise. I at once availed myself, as may be easily imagined, of this most agreeable and unexpected offer. It is pleasing to me to remember that the courtesy shown me by the Commodore was shared by his officers, to two of whom I must specially refer, the Hon. Herbert Meade and Mr. Foljambe. The former, pre- maturely lost to the service and to his friends by a melan- choly accident, gave me, in his last moments, a touching proof of his friendship, by desiring that a part of his vi PREPACL. journals should be consigned to me. To: my regret a variety of circumstances prevented my making use of the valuable bequest of this most intelligent and distinguished young officer, and I eventually returned the papers to his family, thus losing the invaluable opportunity of enriching my ewn work, whenever it should appear, by blending it with some parts of his. His journals have since been published by his family, and achieved a success which they eminently deserved. The loss, therefore, has been entirely my own. To the kindness of Mr. Foljambe I am indebted for some illustrations which will be found in this work, and which had already appeared in an agreeably and well written work of his own, published only for private circulation, entitled ‘ Three Years on the Australian Station,’ &c., a part of which contained a concise but spirited account of our Cruise. These illustrations were from his own drawings. In these days of rapid progress and rapid change, when the ‘latest news’—a phrase which might once imply an interval of months or even years—has now reference to nothing longer than weeks or days, or hours, the publica- tion of facts observed seven years ago has I am aware an archeological tint about it. But various and long wander- ings since my journal was written, and different causes of delay unconnected with it, retarded its appearance for a long while. At length, when the opportunity—not entirely free from interruptions—of bringing it forth did occur, I felt it really necessary, as a sort of excuse for publishing it at all, to PREPFACH. vil render it as attractive as I could by artistic illustrations, some of them of scientific interest, which have been great consumers of time. This has been a source of considerable delay. If the rapidity of our Cruise did not allow me much opportunity of studying the manners and social cha- racteristics of the different islands, it kept me thoroughly engaged in forming and preserving a considerable collection of utensils, weapons, birds, ferns, shells, and other objects of interest. Of these some have been thought of sufficient value to be placed in the British Museum, while the great bulk, now arranged in the museum at Maidstone, contributes, as I am assured, much to the amusement and instruction of its inhabitants. In collecting, arranging, and rather troublesome work on preparing these materials board ship, where room is scant, sea-water sometimes intrudes, and steadiness 4 la Bessemer is unknown—I was assisted by Mr. Wall, as taxidermist, and Mr. Brazier as shell-collector. I must not omit here to return my thanks to the various missionaries I came in contact with for their personal civilities to me, and also for the notes they furnished me respecting the islands in which they resided. If I have had oceasion to criticise some of them it is because, while believing them to be honestly devoted to the great task of civilising the natives of these regions, I have thought it a duty to record my impressions as to why they mar their own purpose, and expend their energies, sometimes, in an vill PREFACH. unprofitable way. This is the more necessary as the time is rapidly approaching when the process of missionary enterprise must be carried on in modes, and on principles, very different from those which were recognised when they devoted themselves to their task. If it be necessary to give a proof of this I will refer to the Dean of Westminster’s remarkable sermon on the Day of Intercession—that day set apart for summoning England to the support of missionary enterprise. He there warns the missionary that dogmatic teaching is not to be the sole or principal lever by which the civilisation of those he is in contact with is to be upraised. In earlier times, he says, it was the practice to send forth to the heathen, missionaries whose special object was religious teaching ; but the time, he tells us, has arrived when a much more comprehensive and practical scheme of instruction is requisite. ‘ Let us not,’ he observes, ‘ measure, as has been well said, this great work by the number of communicants and converts.’ But this is precisely the measure which is too often employed by the missionaries when estimating and proving the amount of their civilising success. But of what avail can be the fittest missionary, though using the fittest means of civilising, when the ground he has to till is bristling with passionate recollections, and fierce resentments that thwart him at every step? In the Western Pacific Ocean there is hardly an island the tradi- tions of which do not record, or the existing generations of which have not experienced, outrages that cause their PREFACE. ix inhabitants to distrust, fear, or resent the approach of the stranger-race. How is he to face those carriers of demora- lisation who, to use the apposite language of the ‘Times,’ when commenting on the subject, ‘spread themselves over the world, following everywhere the bent of their own nature, doing their own will, following their own gain—too generally doing and being nothing that a heathen will recognise as better than himself, or by many degrees as good? Even a missionary of the highest qualifications, such as we now aspire to have but rarely possess, might be baffled by such foes; how then, we ask with the same journal, ‘can a feeble missionary, who would too often be thought but a poor creature at home with every advantage in his favour, hope to stem with a few phrases the torrent of profligacy he finds already in possession of the ground?’ The remedy proposed is ‘ to convert our masses at home : ’ unfortunately this suggestion, besides being too common- place, too rational, and too little ostentatious, indicates a process too slow to meet the urgency of the case. But what could be done, if the country were in earnest, would be to take care that at least the most prominent offences of these destroyers and corruptors should inevitably meet the punishment which they deserve. It is time. In various parts of this book will be found evidence enough of the pressing need of such a_ policy. But if more were required, the frightful incidents brought to our notice recently in connection with the ‘Carl, a slave- trader, pretending to be an emigrant ship, supply a x PREFACH. horrible supplement. What a hideous emblem of our civilisation is that bloodstained vessel throwing out, like the fangs of a grim monster, its grappling-irons to clutch and upset the canoes of the unsuspecting natives, then sending its boats to pick up such of them as had not made for land, or were not drowned; hustling and closely packing them in its hold, and, when its captives, driven mad by excite- ment and suffering, quarrelled among themselves, firing shot upon shot at them through the hatches during the night, killing and wounding seventy ; and finally, when morning broke, throwing the dead and the wounded fastened to one another into the sea! Surely if there were felt but a hun- dredth part of the interest in the fate of the Polynesian that was once, and is still, taken in the fate of the African, there would have been a shout of indignant remonstrance from one end of the land to the other. But where now is the. Anti-Slavery Society? Where is the really benevolent Society of Friends? Where is there the slightest flash of that frenzy of indignation not long since exhibited in the case of the Jamaica black? But philanthropy has often its pet victims on whom it lavishes all its affection, and hence is to be seen fervid and flaming in one direction, while it is cold to rigidity in another, where the claims upon its sympathy are very similar, if not the same. It is to be hoped that some member of Parliament will endeavour to divert his colleagues for a moment, from matters more interesting to themselves, perhaps, and fix their attention upon one, than which none more concerns the honour of PREFACE. xi the nation, and that is the necessity of pressing the Govern- ment to make itself a vigilant and efficient representative of justice and humanity in these seas. Into the question of incorporating into the empire any one of the chief groups, as for instance, the Fiji Islands, I do not pretend to enter. No doubt the bringing them into official connection with the supremacy of the Crown, would furnish us a status in this region that would enable us to do incalculable good. Perhaps the semblance of a reason for such an annexation may be derived from what has recently occurred in New Caledonia. Commanding, as we are told on good authority this island does, the communication of Australia with India, China, Panama and California, it is clear that were its colonial resources to be considerably developed, it might be necessary to have some counterpoise to its influence in these seas. Now the late extensive deportation of the Communists and their families might very well constitute the germ of a vigorous colonisation. For whatever may be thought of the political and social views of these men, there cannot be a doubt that very many of them must efficiently represent the mechanical and industrial skill of their native country. But, on the other hand, such are the vicissitudes of French politics that it is quite possible they may one day hear the signal of recall, to which every man of them would respond, hearing it, perhaps, under circumstances leading them to expect that their re-entrance into the capital from which they had been expelled, would be graced with all the triumphal pomp that xii PRULPACH. honoured the restored ashes of Napoleon, who, for a moment, execrated like them, had been, like them, pro- scribed. What advantage New Caledonia may derive from their exile is, therefore, a matter of doubt. In acknowledging my obligations to the gentlemen whose zoological notices will contribute to the interest of my work, it is painful for me to remember that two of them, Mr. George Gray and Dr. Baird, have passed from among us and are beyond the reach of my thanks. A thankful remembrance of the interest they took in my collections 1s, however, a tribute I can and do offer to their memory. Forxrsrony : Janwary. Since the substance of the above-Preface was communi- cated to the friend who writes this postscript, and put by him into the desired form, Mr. Brenchley—then very ill— has himself passed away. A vigorous constitution, severely tried by years of inces- sant travel, after showing some premonitory symptoms of decay, suddenly broke down under a complication of maladies which rapidly overpowered a muscular frame, en- dowed with exceptional strength, at the comparatively early age of fifty-six. From 1849 to 1867, some brief returns home excepted, he was continuously indulemg what he justly called his ‘ passionate love of wandering “—sometimes in company, sometimes alone —welcoming all sorts of hardships, running all sorts of risks, exposing himself to PREFACE. xiii all varieties and extremes of climate, and always finding himself at home and happy, whether in the cities or the deserts, in traversing the plains or climbing the moun- tains of distant lands. From New York, to which he went in 1849, after having for some months led a forest life among its Indian tribes, he proceeded to St. Joseph, on the Missouri, thence over the Rocky Mountains to the coast of Oregon and Fort Vancouver, and from the latter to the Sandwich or Hawaiian Islands. This was his first unbroken journey. Four years were then spent in explor- ing every part of these interesting islands in company with a French gentleman, M. Jules Remy, a naturalist, whose acquaintance he was so fortunate as to make there, and who, it turned out, was to be his companion in the greater part of his future travels. At the end of this period Mr. Brenchley, following his friend, sailed for California, and, after reaching San Francisco, undertook, accompanied by M. Remy, his remarkable and adventurous journey from that place to Salt Lake City, the capital of the Mormons. This was in 1855. On their way back to San Francisco they went to New Mexico, and, returning to California, ex- plored every part of it. Next year they went to Panama and Ecuador, and ascended Pichincha, down the crater of which Mr. Brenchley, having shipped in his descent, was carried to a formidable depth, from which, with the utmost difficulty, by sheer determination and strength, he finally succeeded in regaining the summit. The next excursion was up Chimborazo ; after which they visited Peru, Chinchas xiv PREFACE. Islands, and Chili. In 1857 they went ‘to the United States, where, having visited the Canadian Lakes, he and his friend descended the Mississippi from its source, in a bark canoe, to Saint Louis, and, thence making their way to New York, embarked for England, where Mr. Brenchley once more appeared, after an absence of eight years. In 1858 and 1859 what may be called a home tour was taken, including Algeria, Morocco, Spain, and Sicily. Some literary engagements now caused a pause; M. Remy being occupied in writing from his own and Mr. Brenchley’s notes an aecount of their visit to Salt Lake City in 1855. This work, written with great ability—unluckily more philosophical than sensational—and with a critical appreciation of Mormon institutions, by no means too lenient, but perhaps too impartial for the prejudices of ordinary readers, was published in Paris in 1860. The de- scription of the journey was preceded by an admirable introduction ‘On the Religious Movement in the United States, of remarkable interest and value, and followed by a brief but very satisfactory sketch of Mr. Brenchley’s adventures when crossing the Rocky Mountains. In the following year the travellers came over to this country to superintend an English translation of the work, which, brought out in too expensive a form for a subject not exciting any very great interest, did not secure the cir- culation it deserved.! 1M. Remy is the author of several works, among others of ‘Ana- lecta Boliviana, seu nova genera et species plantarum in Bolivia cres- PREFACE. XV This interruption over, Mr. Brenchley, once more at liberty, left England with his friend for Bombay; after a little stay at which place they went on to the Nilgherries, Madras, Calcutta, the Himalayas, and Benares; and then, being both taken ill, they returned for medical advice to Calcutta. Leaving that place, they went to Ceylon, on their way to China; but here M. Remy’s indisposition increasing, he was obliged to take leave of his friend and return to France. Mr. Brenchley then proceeded on his way alone to China and Mongolia, made a trip to Japan, and, returning to China, went to Australia and thence to New Zealand, towards the end of 1864. While in Auckland in December of that year—there being just then a suspension of hostilities between the warring tribes—the Governor, Sir George Grey, being anxious that some Europeans should visit the friendly tribes in the vicinity of Lake Taupo, as a mark of attention which would be highly valued, Mr. Brenchley, in conjunction with the late Lieutenant Meade, undertook the expedition. Sir George Grey has borne witness to the great benefit derived from this hazardous journey, the details of which have been set forth with great spirit by Lieutenant Meade in his ‘Ride through the Disturbed Dis- tricts of New Zealand, &c. Soon atter this Mr. Brenchley left Auckland for Sydney, whence he proceeded on the centium ;’ ‘Excursion botanique a travers les Ardennes frangaises ;’ ‘Ascension de Pichincha ;’ and of ‘Ka Mooclolo Hawaii, Histoire de VArchipel Havaiien; texte et traduction, précédés d’une introduction sur l’état physique, moral et politique du pays.’ Paris, 1862. xvi PRIEPACH. cruise which is the subject of this book. On his return to Sydney he devoted some time and trouble in organising, for the amusement of the people there, an exhibition of the curious and interesting objects which had been collected. At the close of this he went again to China, and thus made his way back to Europe by the Great Desert of Gobi, Siberia—in the depth of winter—and Russia. Though he has left a large amount of notes made during his journeys, he was more interested in collecting material objects, illustrative and commemorative of his varied travels, than in devoting himself to literary descriptions of them ; the present work was the result of a promise. Of the rich and varied collection which was the product of his visit to the South Seas and other places, a portion, as observed in the Preface, has found its way into the British Museum ; but the principal part—consisting of birds, fishes, insects, weapons, shells, canoes, models, and obj ects of various kinds, illustrating the industry and arts of the different countries through which he passed, including fine specimens of the artistic and industrial products of Japan, China, Siberia, and Russia—has been presented to the museum of his native town, Maidstone, to the enlargement and embellishment of which, in various ways, he has also munificently contributed. Thus, though travelling for his own instruction and amuse- ment, he spared neither cost nor trouble in procuring what he thought would contribute to the instruction and gratifi- cation of others. CONTE NES: CHAPTER TI. NORFOLK ISLAND. (Jung 9 To 13.) Leave Sydney—Lord Howe Island—Ball’s Pyramid—Nepean Island and Philip Island—Sydney Bay and Cascade Bay—Ride from the coast to the town—The Rey. Mr. Nobbs and his adventures—The old penal settlement— Araucaria—Character of the new colonists—Their hospitality—Account of a g ] murderous attack upon the crew of Bishop Patteson’s yacht—An American and his flag . : : : é : : : : : : 1-16 CHAPTER II. NIUL OR SAVAGE ISLAND. (Jone 29.) Raoul Island—Off Niue—Tiger-sharks—The missionary—Excursion in the island—Familiarity of the natives—General aspect of the island—Its pro- ductions—Animals—Population—South American slave-dealers—Policemen —Costumes—Language—Manners and customs—Past and present character of the natives—Contradictory statements : : : 5 . 17-85 CHAPTER III. TUTUILA—SAMOAN GROUP. (Jury 1 To 4.) Pango-Pango Harbour—Appearance of the natives—Statements by the mis- sionaries—A. pilot who takes his ease—Dwellings—Visit to the missionary— Trip into the interior—Village of Fungatele—American artisan—Native women—The chief dines on board—Native dance—Christian church—Man- ners—Progress due to Christianity—Indigenous products 0 86-60 a xXvVill CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. UPOLU—SAMOAN GROUP—continued. (Jury 5 To 10.) Apia Bay—Consul Williams, son of the Martyr of Eramanga—Mischief caused by a hurricane—Resident strangers—Baptisms on board—Sunday at Apia— Catholic bishop—Protestant missionary—Missionary disputes—History of a Bible in the Ellice Islands—Unfair treatment of natives—Visit of the great chief Malietoa—Inconsistent appreciations of native character—Re- markable testimonies in favour of the Samoans—Natives and whites—Man- ners and customs—Ancient crater—Cascade—lIsland products . 61-87 CHAPTER V. VAVAU—TONGA GROUP. (Jury 10 To 16.) Boscawen and Keppel Islands—Sandy point—Excursion on shore—Mission- aries—Village of Neiafu—Visit to the governor David Unga—His singular mutilation—The guide Papalangi—Roads and convicts—Voleano of Latte —Curious natural grottoes— Population— Diseases—Government—Laws— Products : : é : 3 : : : ; : . 88-103 CHAPTER VI. TONGATABU—TONGA GROUP—continued. (Juty 17 To 22.) Numerous islands—Voleano of Latte—First trip on shore—Royal palace— Schools—Muscular Christianity—The Wesleyan Mission and its chapel— Captain Croker and the siege of Bea—Catholic and Protestant missionaries —Their mission houses—Their mutual criminations, and recriminations— Visit to King George—The king’s return visit—His Majesty dines on board —Fear of the French—A dinner at the king’s—Catholic missionaries— Council-house—The Kava Ring—Public school examinations—Native diver- sions—Tongan Stonehenge—The island and its productions —Climate — Maladies — Population—The race and its customs— Christianity and its effects—Relations of the Tongans with the Fijians—Government and con- stitution é 0 C : 6 : . . c : . 104-142 CHAPTER VII. OVALAU—FIJI GROUP. (Jury 26 To 29.) The Island of Neau—Anchorage at Levuka—A visit on shore—The consul and his clerk absent—A French lady and her tum for natural history— Excursion into the interior—Method of kindling wood—Canoe building— Appearance of the natives—Sharks and sword-fish . : : . 1438-152 CONTENTS. XIX CHAPTER VIII. MBAU AND VITI-LEVU—FIJI GROUP—continued. (Jury 29 to AveusT 2.) Mbau Roadstead—Boat expedition in Viti-Levu to Rewa up Wai-Levu River —Interview with Tui-Drakiti, King of Rewa—Courteous reception—Hospi- tality of the Rev. Mr. Carey, Wesleyan missionary—Trip in canoe up to Davui-Leyu—Visit to the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Baker—Capsized on way back to Rewa—The natives and their huts—Return from Rewa to Mbau—King Thakumbau—Exchange of civilities and arms—The great Kava bowl —The Akau-tabu—Conjecture respecting cannibalism—Cruel practices in Fiji—Not unparalleled in civilisation—Intellectual and moral characteristics of the Fijians—Jackson’s praise of them—Captain Erskine’s confirmation of it—Their intelligence and acuteness—Their songs and hymns—Their pro- verbs—Their capacity of conversing—Their love of fun and jest—What value they attach to truth—Singular ceremony at Mbau — Interesting pie-nic . : : é é 0 6 : : 0 5 . 168-175 CHAPTER IX. KANDAVU—FIJI GROUP —continued. (Aveust 3.) Levuka Bay and village—Peculiar form of the island—Mountain cliff of Buke-Levu—Village of Yawe—Visit of H.M.S. ‘Msk’—Letter of canoe- men to her commander—Notes on the Fiji group—Chiefs—Languages— Their mythology—Deification promised to a missionary—‘I am a God ’— Character of their gods, and its results—Impediment to civilisation—Climate and soil— European population—Native notions respecting property and land—Difficulties thrown in the way of its acquisition—Improved prospects for settlers—Exports—Commerce—Future resources. : . 176-192 CHAPTER X. ANATOM—NEW HEBRIDES. (Avcusr 6 To 10.) Striking appearance of the island—A vessel belonging to the Presbyterian mission—Climate—Causes of decreased population—Character of the natives —Progress due to Christianity—Chiefs—Productions . . . 198 ~200 CHAPTER XI. TANNA—NEW HEBRIDES—continued, (Aveust 10 To 13.) Uea Harbour—Useless negotiations with offending chiefs—Bombardment— Men landed and property destroyed—Incidents of the attack—Effect pro- a2 Xxx CONTENTS. duced on the enemy—Description of the island—Climate and disease— Disposition of the people —Morality—Usages—Creeds—Government—Ma- rum, or council-house—Fruitless efforts of the missionaries—Languages— Volcano of Asur and its environs—Productions and exports . . 201-214 CHAPTER XII. VATE OR SANDWICH ISLAND—NEW HEBRIDES—continued. (Aveust 16 To 18.) A day at Eramanga—Stop at the port of Vila—Anchor in Havannah Harbour —The ‘ Dayspring’ again—Costumes of the natives—Excursion in the iskand— Dwellings—Fisherwomen—Cannibalism—The Rey. Mr. Turner’s account of them—Favourable notices of them by various visitors—Decrease of popula- tion—Language—Government—Customs—Artistic slill—Creeds—Teachers and their extravagant tales—Products . 9 : : 5 . 215-232 CHAPTER XIII. VANUA-LAV A—BANKS’ ISLANDS. (Aveust 21 To 23.) Through the northernmost islands of the New Hebrides—Uncertain navigation —Port Patteson—The ‘Southern Cross’ and Bishop Patteson—Appearance of the natives—Trip in the island—Vegetation—Dwellings and club-house— River of hot water—Jets of vapour—Eges of Megapodius—Customs— Climate—Diseases—Vegetation . 233-242 CHAPTER XIV. SANTA-CRUZ ISLAND. (Aveusr 25.) Vanikoro Island—Ocili Harbour—Port Graciosa in Santa-Cruz— Volcano of Tinakoro—A swarm of canoes—Barter : , : 8 . 248-247 CHAPTER XV. ULAKUA—SOLOMON GROUP. (Aveust 27 To 29.) Singular fact—Island of Santa-Anna—Arrive in sight of the Island of Ulakua —Natives and their canoes—Omaments and dress—Trip on land—Huts— Women—Parrots . ¢ c A : ; : c 0 . 248-257 CONTENTS. xxi CHAPTER XVI. UJI—SOLOMON GROUP—continued. (Aveust 29 To 30.) Alarm on board—Pigeon shooting in the trees—Natural history—Ornamental tie-beam—A village hall ; 5 : 6 é : 3 . 258-263 CHAPTER XVII. SAN-CHRISTOVAL—SOLOMON GROUP—continued. (Avcust 30 to Sepremper 4.) Anchor at Wanga—Arrival of canoes—Barter—A walk in the island—A native carving resembling a European hat—A grimly decorated canoe-house— Opossum—A_ glutinous fruit—Village—Women entirely naked—Human skulls—Curious groups of natives—Constant state of warfare—Fishing in a river—Anchor at Hada—A self-styled king—A nigger who treats the natives as niggers—The bishop and the murderer of one of his teachers—Appearance of the natives. 0 é c : : : é ‘ . » 264-273 CHAPTER XVIII GUADALCANAR—SOLOMON GROUP—continued, (SEPTEMBER 4 TO 3d.) Marau Sound—Curagoa Harbour—Visit ashore—Marshes—Dwellings—Men and women—The Island of Malata in the distance . : 6 . 274-276 CHAPTER XIX. FLORIDA—SOLOMON GROUP—continued. (SEPTEMBER 5 TO 7.) Aspect of the island—Gulf of Mboli, and anchorage in Port Wiseman—Native canoes—Ornaments—Barter—Judicious advice not to land—Fishing on the reef—Uneasiness caused by the prolonged absence of our hydrographic officer—Important result of Mr, Scudamore’s survey. 5 . 277-285 CHAPTER XxX. YSABEL—SOLOMON GROUP—continued. (SEPTEMBER 7 TO 10.) At anchor in St. George’s Bay—Cockatoo Island—Barter—Ebony trees—Trip inland—Difficult walk—A convoy of women—Houses perched in trees— Pigeon Island 4 ; . . : : . 286-293 XX1i CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXI. ERAMANGA—NEW HEBRIDES. (SEPTEMBER 25 TO 26.) View of a fortified village and a tree-house—Man overboard—Tedious naviga- tion—A gale—Calms—At anchor in Dillon’s Bay—News from land—Trade in sandal-wood—Mr. Henry—Lime from coral—A bomb-shell in the hands of savages—The Rev. Mr. Gordon—Hostile state of things—Two ill-disposed chiefs—The master of the ‘Curagoa’ attacked by natives—The village of Sifu bombarded by the ‘Curagoa’—A missionary who never laughed— Remarkable censure of the local missionaries connected with these proceed- ings against the natives—A more equitable course of action required—Notes on the island—Epidemics—Missionary labours—Government—Manners and customs—Religious creeds—Trade in wood and women— Productions — Industry : ; fs 3 5 0 c : : 4 . 294-322 CHAPTER XXII. NEW CALEDONIA—LOYALTY ISLANDS. (SEPTEMBER 28 To OcToBER 8.) Loyalty Islands—Aspect of New Caledonia—Havannah Passage — Praslin Bay—Canoes—At anchor in Port-de-France—Visit from the governor— Visit returned—Madame Guillain—M. Guillain—Government-house and gardens—The governor and the Protestant missionaries—The capital of the eolony—The model farm of Yahove—A new kind of plough—Coffee trees— The aborigines—Religion—Manners and customs—Infamous usage of natives by whites—Captain Cook’s favourable notice of them—Basset, chief of Yengen—His house in the interior—Appearance of the country—Trimly- kept houses—Poles surmounted by skulls—Remarkable irrigation—Remains of ancient aqueduct—Return to Sydney—Conclusion : . 323-350 NATURAL HISTORY NOTICES. Brrps 353-394 REPTILES . : $ 7 : 6 A : : : . 395-408 FisHES . p 5 : 3 4 A a : ; ‘ . 409-430 SHELLS. : cj i , 5 4 ; , p : . 431-454 INsEcTs . A . : : 5 : ¢ 2 5 E . 455-474 LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. MAP. Chart of the South Sea Islands : 5 End of the book CHROMO-LITHOGRAPHS. PAGE The two sides of a tie beam from a village hall, Uji, Solomon Islands . 5 . 5 6 Frontispiece A village hall, Uji, Solomon Islands. ; . To face 262 SEPARATE ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. *,* The woodcuts to which an asterisk is prefixed were engraved by Mr. G. Pearson, from Photographs made upon the spot: those with a ¢ were lent by Mr. Forsamns, * Natives of Tutuila . : : : . Lo face 40 * Levuka ; ‘ : 5 : ; ye) 145 * Natives of Ovalau ; , 6 : ; ee ay?) * Weapons, South Sea Islands . : ; : Se a, * Scene in Banks’ Islands : : : ; » 203 * Canoe House, Uji : : : : 8 208 * Natives of Ysabel Island , : ; : a 287 % Natives and Canoe, Ysabel Island. : : ee oil XXIV LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. ENGRAVINGS IN THE TEXT. * The Barracks, Norfoll*Island * Mission House, Niue + Fungasa, or Massacre Bay * Wife of Maunga . * Native Teacher * Samoan Chief in war costume * King George’s House, Tongatabu * Queen of Tonga . * King George of Tonga + Stone monument, Tongatabu + Double canoe + Pools at the waterfall of Waitoba * King Thakumbau and his son * The great Kava bowl of Fiji * Natives of Tanna + Native houses, Vate + Hat Island, entrance to Havarnen Hees + Mota, or Sugar-loaf Island * Natives of Banks’ Islands + Tinakoro . * Har ornaments ; j * Har-drop made of sharks’ teeth . * Nose ornaments . * Specimens of necklaces * Mother of pearlnose ornaments , * Native girls, Uji . + Native carving, San Christoval , +Two-tree Island . + Ass’s Ears, Florida sibel * Chief’s shield and two-handed ahi + Tree Fort, Ysabel Island + Southern Cross + Mu Island, Port- aeitanee Tle fies insane + Port-de-France, from Signal Hill * Model Farm, New Caledonia * Clubs b p W pv aD bifaria: . at) 42. Venus roseo-tincta 7 Arca, Nove Caledoniz ue », (byssoarca) dubia do. » 402 Pecten similis ae Perna (isognomon) Suncor J INSECTS. Hymenoptera ACULEATA. 43. Thynnus brenchleyi : s conspicuus b | 2 paula > HE do. » 456 ; unifasciatus . att Pompilus pictipennis . Priocnemis polydorus . J 44, Priocnemis affectatus . ge “ ephippiatus Sphex aurifex . | do. 460 » decorata 3 pretexta Q Stizus pectoralis XXVifi LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. PLATE 15, 46, AZ. 8. Danais insolata : i | ay PAGE DIPLOPTERA. Paragia vespiformis . ; | Disccelius insignis Eumenes sinensis : Rhynchium magnificam : Megachile monstrosa . Stenotritus smaragdinus a | ! fr Drawn by G. H. Ford. To face 462 LuPrlpoPTERA. Kupleabrenchleyi . . Drawn by A. G. Butler. ,, 464 > lorenzo aratn do. 5 466 ”» ite) Diadema bolina do. alte . Callidryas lactea Terias ingana . ; 3 [ do. » 470 Appias melania s 5 ) . Papilio (Ornithoptera) cassandra do. PTE: Hrratum. Page 261, line 17, for Ballistes read Balistes. THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQCOA’. = CHAPTER: I. NORFOLK ISLAND. (June 9 To 13.) Leave Sydney—Lord Howe Island—Ball’s Pyramid—Nepean Island and Philip Island—Sydney Bay and Cascade Bay—Ride from the Coast to the Town—The Rey. Mr. Nobbs and his Adventures—The old Penal Settle- ment—Ayaucaria—Character of the new Colonists—Their Hospitality— Account of the murderous Attack upon the Crew of Bishop Patteson’s Yacht —History of an American and his Flag. Ir was a beautiful Sunday afternoon, June 4, 1865, when I left Sydney and went on board the ‘ Curagoa’ at 2.15 P.M. I found there the Commodore together with the Spanish Consul General, Don Edouardo San Just, and some other visitors, who had come off to bid their friendly adieus. We weighed a little before 3, and proceeded under steam somewhat beyond the heads of Port Jackson, the band playing appropriate airs as we went down the harbour. When we hada good offing we raised the screw, and set sail with a nice breeze, which freshened the farther we B ly 2 CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAGOA,’ receded from land during the night. Thus satisfactorily began our pleasant cruise. In addition to the ship’s company there were, besides myself, whom the Commodore had kindly invited to be his cuest, Mr. Veitch, the son of the well-known nurseryman, who had permission from the Admiralty to accompany us for the purpose of collecting plants; Mr. Wall, for many years Curator of the Sydney Museum, who was going out as taxidermist; and Mr. Brazier as shell collector. Science being thus represented, our creature comforts had also been attended to. A good cow and calf, seventeen sheep, and a quantity of poultry were our guarantees for these. We had also canine companions not a few, belonging to the officers, including a kangaroo dog, and two pretty spaniels of the Commodore’s. Thus provided for in a variety of ways we went on our course NE. by E. half E. The weather was fine for the first two days, with bright starlight nights, the moon getting on to the full. The wind having freshened a good deal the ship rolled considerably, and it did not much add to my comfort to have my berth drenched by the water coming through the port when the sea dashed against it. Soon after daylight on the 6th we sighted Lord Howe Island and Ball’s Pyramid; the former of which can be seen twenty miles off in clear weather, and the latter twelve. Lord Howe Island is the southernmost of the outlying islands and reefs of the east coast of Australia. It is said to be of volcanic origin, is mountainous, well-wooded, and fertile in the lower parts. Its highest point is Mount Gower, NORFOLK ISLAND. 3 which has an elevation of 2,834 feet, and rises abruptly from the south end. Ball’s Pyramid, a remarkable peak, is 1,810 feet in height, towering abruptly from a rocky islet lying twelve miles from Lord Howe Island. On the 7th we came across a dismasted barque, that had probably come to grief in the squall of the preceding day. She appeared to have as much sail as she could carry in her crippled state. It is said such mishaps frequently occur in these seas. Proceeding slowly with very little wind, and aided by two boilers, we on the 9th at daybreak sighted Norfolk Island, and soon afterwards were able to discern the pine-trees that flourish on Mount Pitt, its most elevated point, rising, it is said, to the height of 1,000 feet, and also the well-known windmill on its coast. We could at the same time observe Nepean and Philip Islands near to Norfolk Island, but much smaller than it. Nepean Island, lymg low and of a naked appearance, is separated from Norfolk Island by a channel 900 yards in width ; it is about 400 yards long from north to south, and about as wide from east to west. There are only three trees on this island, which are visible at a great distance. Philip Island, distant somewhat more than three miles from Norfolk Island, is much larger and more elevated, being more than 2,000 yards long and 900 wide. Certain parts of the cliff of this island have a very decided reddish tint, others are of a bright yellow, others again of a violet colour. To judge by the appearance of the soil one would be apt to suppose that it was of volcanic origin; I was not, B2 4 CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAGOA,’ however, able in passing by it to discern anything which resembled an extinct crater, A little before mid-day we dropped anchor in Sydney Bay, at least two miles from the centre of the settlement, after a capital run of 950 miles in less than five days. The northern coast is steep, undulating, of a reddish tint, and tolerably well wooded. On the shore, beyond the breakers, we perceived a group of people, several of whom presently manned an eight-oared boat, which, forcing itself through the breakers, made its way to the ‘Curacgoa.’ Its crew was soon upon deck. One of them was George Adams the son of a mutineer of the ‘Bounty, a man sixty-one years of age, accompanied by his son about forty years old. There were also Quintal, Christian, and others whose names the history of the Pitcairn settlers has, made familar to many of us from our childhood. Though reputed to be total abstainers from spirituous liquors these people made no difficulty in accepting a glass of brandy or wine, which they drank while conversing in an English that was tole- rably correct. They were badly dressed, and seemed to me to be of a browner complexion than I had expected, and than, indeed, I had reason to expect, knowing they were half-castes, or descendants of half-castes. They advised the Commodore, as a matter of precaution, to seek an anchorage in Cascade Bay on the north-east coast of the island. We accordingly weighed anchor, and the ‘ Curagoa ’ made for the point indicated. In sailing past Philip Island we were informed by them that it is thronged with rabbits, NORFOLK ISLAND. 5 whose principal and almost only food is the bark of trees. At 2 p.m. we reached the anchorage in Cascade Bay, a charming spot adorned with picturesque clusters of trees, above which soar, giant-like, magnificent specimens of the famous Norfolk Island pine. As soon as we anchored, the Commodore invited me to accompany him ashore. George Adams, who was with us, pointed out the best spot for landing, about a mile from the ship. The sea was fortu- nately calm, and we were able without difficulty to clamber up the rocks which edged the shore. We now saw Mr. Rossiter coming to meet us with several horses. This gentleman is both the schoolmaster of the settlement and the agent of the Governor of New South Wales for superintending the affairs of Norfolk Island. The horses thus obligingly placed at our disposal were the pick of the island, but as very a company of nags as ever looked forward with confidence to being speedily relieved from their troubles by the knacker. Our gear was in perfect harmony with our steeds. The saddles were all rotten, the girths and stirrup-straps mended in various places with string of all possible kinds; no trifle this for one whose avoirdupois endowments require a stout hunter or hack, with appointments to match. So equipped and so horsed, it was not without ludicrous difficulty we worked up a hill from which we had to descend into the town. No wonder that the natives thus mounted frequently lose their lives when indulging in horsemanship. The distance we had to pass over was about three miles, upon a road 6 CRUISH OF THE ‘CURAQOA.’ leading through a pretty country, where we saw herds of cattle enjoying themselves amid rich pastures. We passed by Cascade Station, a village to the left, near the top of the hill, in which we observed a number of people chiefly engaged in the cultivation of the potato, which is their principal food. On our way we saw numbers of fine lemon- trees loaded with fruit, which are cultivated in preference to orange-trees that are said to fruit less well and_ less easily. As we proceeded we came upon the Rev. Mr. Nobbs, the Church of England clergyman of the settlement, in company of the Bishop of Melanesia (Patteson), who had arrived the evening before by the mission schooner ‘Southern Cross, which was standing off and on the coast, waiting for orders to make for the Loyalty Islands, which the Bishop was about to visit on behalf of the Church of Eneland mission. Mr. Hood,! in his ‘Cruise of the “ Fawn,” has a notice of the Rev. Mr. Nobbs, from which it appears that he has had a most chequered career, and that there is a strange contrast between his earlier and later occupations. He began life as a midshipman in the Royal Navy, and commanded one of the boats under Lord Dundonald in the brilhant cutting-out affair in the Basque Roads. Subse- quently he went to Chili, where he was made prisoner and sentenced to death; escaping that, he was forced to labour in irons on the roads; and, after various other adventures, made his way with a single companion in a little craft of 1 “Notes of a Cruise in H.M.S. “Fawn” in the Western Pacific in 1862,’ by T. H. Hood, p. 280. NORFOLK ISLAND. 7 twenty tons to Pitcairn Island. After some residence there he was driven away by an impostor, who pretended to be an agent of the British Government ; but, the fraud being discovered, he returned to the island. He subsequently went to England and was ordained, after which he returned to his old friends, and accompanied them when transferred to Norfolk Island. He left upon me the impression of an amiable man. After crossing something like a public garden, no longer used, we descended as far as the house of the former governor of the island, consisting of a single story, a sort of stone bungalow, furnished with a good verandah, and in front of it a flag-staff from which floated the Union Jack. It is here Mr. Rossiter resides as agent of the Queen’s re- presentative, now his Excellency Sir John Young. There are other houses in the neighbourhood of similar con- struction, but less roomy, which are occupied by persons privileged to live in them rent free. The old convict prison, capable of holding 1,700 prisoners, is a large four-storied building, surrounded by high walls, as is the case with the commissariat, and the two barracks in its vicinity. The prisoners, who were all males, and transported for life, slept in hammocks slung so as to occupy the least possible space. At the sides of the great prison were much smaller buildings containing cells for the con- finement of such as were sentenced to death, and dungeons in which no light apparently could enter. The buildings for the warders, superintendents, and those which served as 8 CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA,’ workshops for the convicts still exist. They are all of them im such a state of preservation as to appear at a little distance comparatively new, and one is surprised that they should have been so long in use; the windows, however, are for the most part broken, the roofs are falling in, and some part of the wood-work has been carried off for fuel. The chapel of the old penal settlement forms part of the great prison. iy SY MTEL NLT, LEA. THE BARRACKS, NORFOLK ISLAND. The actual settlers occupy the houses which were built by government for the use of the officials attached to the penal settlement. The greater part of them are in need of repair; but, unluckily, the trowel and the hod are, as yet, mysteries unrevealed to the islanders. Their incapacity in this respect is thought to be accounted for by the indolence so natural in a people, who, at the cost of the least possible exertion, can obtain the satisfaction of the greater part of their wants. A more satisfactory reason surely is that NORFOLK ISLAND. 9 having, when their change of quarters took place, found houses ready to receive them, they were under no necessity of learning the art of construction, either of a civilized or uncivilized fashion. But as houses will decay, and habita- tions when required, must be constructed, and cannot be made to grow, it is a matter of surprise that no attempt is making to teach them to preserve such as they fortunately have, and with which they would be sorry to part. After having been for half a century a land under a curse, Norfolk Island has become a little terrestrial paradise. Of the old penal settlement nothing remains but its material relics, and, in the place of criminals who once thronged it, are now to be seen only properly conducted and happy people, the well-disposed descendants of the mutineers of the ‘ Bounty.’ The particulars of their history are too well known to be repeated here. We may merely observe that, after living on Pitcairn Island from 1790 to 1855, and, finding themselves cramped for want of room on a rock the surface of which did not exceed 800 acres, they petitioned Government to transfer them to Norfolk Island when they learnt it was no longer to be used for penal purposes. Their petition was successful, and in 1856 they were transferred to their new dwelling-place to the number of 193 persons, of whom 40 were men, 47 women, 54 boys, 52 girls, where they have since lived happily, and full of thankfulness to their mother country, with the exception of forty who re- turned homesick to Pitcairn. Their little town, Kingston, is agreeably situated facing 10 CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA, the sea, at about 500 yards from the shore. -The principal street, in which the best houses, stone villas with gardens surrounded by walls of the same materials, are found, is composed of finely-broken stone, and, though ill kept up, is still in tolerable condition. This stone, taken from a quarry, is a sort of concrete sand. A pretty little brook, about five feet wide, has been brought from the environs to irrigate the town, and amply suffices for the wants of the inhabit- ants. A small quantity of taro (Caladium esculentum), used occasionally for making poi, is grown on its banks. The hill from which the stream springs, and at the bottom of which the town is built, is from 360 to 570 feet high. Formerly there were several roads branching off from this hill towards different parts of the coast, but which, from want of being attended to, are already-in a very bad state, and rapidly disappearing. The officials who lived in the island while a penal settlement passed, it is said, their time pleasantly enough, and contrived to make it a tolerably comfortable place of residence, having good horses and carriages at their command for making pleasure trips ; nothing of which is now to be found. Sydney Bay, near which the town is built, is bounded on the west by Point Ross, and on the east by Point Hunter near the windmill. When the tide is out a coral reef is seen stretching from the shore at varying distances of from 100 to 700 yards. Boats landing are obliged to cross the reef. The sea all along the coast is of great depth. The undulating surface of the soil, the woods and verdure NORFOLK ISLAND. i which clothe it, give Norfolk Island a most charming aspect. What imparts to its scenery a special character is the presence of the famous Norfolk Island pme (Hutassa, or Araucaria excelsa), a magnificent tree of colossal propor- tions, small specimens of which most people may have had an opportunity of admiring in various public gardens of Europe. I had no opportunity of meeting with any very large ones in the part of the island which I visited, but Adams told me he had recently cut one down which was thirty-six feet in circumference and more than 210 feet in height ; and he further assured me he had seen some larger still. In ad- dition to this tree, there are other very pretty arborescent species.on the heights where they constitute what are really woods or forests. At the time of the arrival of the present settlers numbers of wild hogs were to be found at large in these woods, but they have been almost entirely destroyed for the sake of their flesh. On all sides oxen and sheep were to be seen in the pastures, and fowls and turkeys about the dwellings. Venomous reptiles are unknown; on the other hand, numbers of centipedes are to be found beyond the usual size. The fortunate settlers on Norfolk Island are of a joyous and engaging disposition. Their cheerful ringing laugh, ever ready to burst forth, and in perfect harmony with the lively expression of their faces, predisposed me immediately in their favour. This gaiety, most conspicuous in the women, is however common to both sexes ; in a word, they 12 CRUISE OF THE. ‘CURAGOA, completely won me at first sight by their apparent amia- bility : I say apparent, having had experience of the man- ners of the half-castes of Hawaii, who are perpetually smiling and making the most gracious advances, but who, at bottom, are nothing more than actors skilled in inspiring kind feel- ings which they do not reciprocate. But I will say at once, and sincerely too, that nothing authorizes me to throw doubts upon the sincerity of these islanders. On June 10, 11, and 12 we remained on shore, contrary to our expectation and our intention, but by no means to our regret. Foul weather had compelled the ‘Curacoa’ to put out to sea the night of our landing, and she did not return to her anchorage till the morning of the 12th, which gave us an opportunity of testing the hospitality of the inhabit- ants; and, we one and all acknowledged, they neglected nothing that could speed on the time agreeably, which the capricious elements had ordained we should pass amone them. They placed themselves entirely at our disposal ; housed us as best they could; made us a hearty offer of what they possessed ; and even went so far as to beg us to take any peculiar specimens of their workmanship which their houses contained. As they neither make nor import spirituous liquors of any sort, it was impossible to attribute their extremely kind treatment to any passing and factitious excitement; and the warmth of their manner proved very clearly to us that their offers proceeded from no formal and routine politeness, such as is to be found among more than one people of Europe. NORFOLK ISLAND. 13 Dancing and singing are their principal means of recrea- tion. After having, for two hours each evening, charmed our ears with their strains in a‘great hall, wherein the whole island was collected, they began dancing, which, on one occasion, was continued until almost daybreak. Our young officers were so much pleased with these diversions as to declare them the most charming and delightful of any they had ever experienced ; some went so far as to say they had never met so many pretty girls collected together in one ball-room. The sober truth is, there was not a single girl of any very striking beauty, but the majority of them were attractive, and very pleasant to look upon. Admirable figures, fine eyes, good teeth, and remarkably clear, slightly olive-tinted complexions, were no mean constituents of personal comeliness. But not the least of their attractions was their sparkling galety. We passed a Sunday in the island, and were present at morning service in the ci-devant convict chapel. Bishop Patteson confirmed a number of young people, among whom the girls appeared to great advantage in their white dresses, and veils hanging from the back of the head to the feet. The ceremony concluded, the Bishop delivered a touching address, in which he introduced an account of the painful affair that happened in the island of Santa Cruz at the time of his last voyage, which may be told in a few words. The Bishop, when touching at Norfolk Island, had taken on board two of the most respectable youths of the place, one 14 CRUISH OF THE ‘CURAGOA, a son of the Rev. Mr. Nobbs, the other a member of the Christian family. They had but just landed at Santa Cruz, when, from certain appearances, they began to suspect that some foul play was intended. They therefore thought it prudent to return to their boat, and were not a moment too soon, for, when in the act of pushing off, they saw clearly that it had been the intention of the natives to prevent their doing so, and immediately after leaving the shore their boat was enveloped in a shower of arrows, which wounded Nobbs in the wrist and Christian in the jaw, while one of the boatmen was struck on the breast by an arrow which passed through him. The two first died of lock-jaw two days after the attack, while the third, more seriously wounded to all appearance, survived and got well. The Bishop’s narrative caused a good deal of emotion among his hearers, composed in great measure of the rela- tives and friends of the two victims. I took an opportunity of asking Bishop Patteson if he had any clue to the motives of this brutal attack. He told me he was all the more puzzled to account for it, inasmuch as he had been well received by the savages on his first visit; but that, after much reflection on the subject, he had come to the con- clusion, that their altered conduct was an act of retaliation for some outrage upon them by seafaring men. He added, in a general way, that he had grounds for attributing the hostility of the South Sea Islanders to the whites, to acts of violence and injustice to which they were exposed by their contact with lawless traders; and this view of the case I NORFOLK ISLAND. 15 myself eventually adopted after having seen with my own eyes of what the people who navigate these seas are capable. Hence it happens that tribes we treat as savages with a certain air of superiority might, were the barbarous acts attributed to them carefully enquired into, find favour in the eyes of civilized nations, which have not always reason to be proud of the adventurers who represent them in distant seas. During our stay at Norfolk Island a deputation of the inhabitants waited on the Commodore to complain of an American who, residing there, obstinately persisted in hoisting the American flag every Sunday on the top of his house, which is government property. The settlers looked upon this as an insolent pretension, offensive to their loyalty and patriotism. Sir William Wiseman undertook to appease their irritation, and succeeded in some way or other in doing so. The name of this eccentric American was Bates. When in command of a Yankee whale ship he had touched at the island short of provisions. While getting in his supples he fell in love with Mr. Rossiter’s, the schoolmaster’s, sister, and married her. Having done this on condition of re- maining on the island, he sent away his ship under the care of his mate; and having thus taken up his quarters he amused himself every Sunday with this tolerably harmless display of his nationality. Before taking final leave of our amiable hosts we invited them to pay a visit to the ‘Curacoa.’ Several of them accepted the invitation and came and spent an hour or two 16 CRUISE OF THE ‘CURA(QOA.’ ) on board, and we availed ourselves of the opportunity of pressing on their acceptance a few trifles likely to be of use to them, of which they manifested a thankfulness far in excess of the obligation. Determined not to be outdone in liberality they sent us, just as we were about to set sail, a gigantic turkey and a prodigious assortment of fruits. We shall see in our progress islands of more curious interest, settlements of more importance, stranger usages, and less familiar products; but I question whether we shall carry away from any other place recollections so agreeable, and such charming inhpressions of friendly feelings, sincerely reciprocated, as from this first visit of our cruise.1 ! The same testimony to the beauty of the island, the remarkable amiability of the inhabitants, and the even and happy tenor of their lives, is borne by Mr. Hood, ‘ Cruise of the “ Fawn,” ’ p, 242. NIUE, OR SAVAGH ISLAND. aly CHAPTER II. NIUE, OR SAVAGE ISLAND. (JUNE 29.) Raoul Island—Off Niue—Tiger Sharks—The Missionary—Excursion in the Island—Familiarity of the Natives—General Aspect of the Island—Its Pro- ductions—Animals—Population—South American Slave Dealers—Police- men—Costumes—Language—Manners and Customs—Past and present Character of the Natives—Contradictory Statements. On June 13, before nightfall, we weighed anchor with the intention of shaping our course towards Niue Island. For several days albatrosses, Cape pigeons, and other birds, followed in our wake. At first we had head winds and rain, followed by calms, which obliged us to get up steam. In the evening of the 15th we were all thrown into con- fusion by the captain of the main-top contriving to let himself fall from the main-topsail-yard on the larboard gang- way ; his fall having been fortunately checked by his coming into contact with several parts of the rigging, he got off for a sharp contusion on his spine, from which he recovered in a few days. On the 28rd, about seven o’clock in the morning, we sighted Raoul or Sunday Island, the most northern of the Kermadec group. The land is high, its greatest point of elevation reaching and perhaps exceeding 1,600 feet. Its C 18 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA, banks appeared to us to be steep. It is certainly of volcanic origin, and is about five miles long by three wide. We observed a fire upon the coast, and some animals, which, in the distance, looked like sheep. The island is covered with verdure, with the exception of its cliffs, in which I thought I perceived columnar basalt. It is said to have been in- habited in 1840 by an American named Halstead and his family, and it was on its shores that Captain Denham, of HMMS. ‘ Herald, buried one of his sons in 1854. Whalers stop here occasionally to procure water, vegetables, and poultry. We could not discern the slightest trace of Twelve- foot Rock, marked on the chart as being distinctly visible on account of its breakers. On the 29th, about 9 o’clock in the morning, we hove to about two miles from Niue Island. An aged native, of remarkably good appearance, who had been on board a whaler, immediately came on board to inform us that the missionary’s wife was ill. Soon afterwards a number of canoes rapidly approached the ‘ Curagoa’ laden with spears, shells, fruit, models of canoes, and other objects intended for barter with the sailors. All these canoes were small sized; I did not see one which carried more than six persons, the greater part not more than four. As our stay was to be very short, T hastened to land. In the remarkably transparent waters off the coast I saw several of those sharks which the sailors eall tiger sharks, but which, to all appearance, are not so dangerous as they are supposed to be, since the islanders swim among them without manifesting any apprehension. .NIUE, OR SAVAGE ISLAND. Lg The Commodore, who remained on board, amused himself with his rifle, firing at them; he killed several, to one of which the natives made fast a rope and hauled it upon deck. The island appeared to me bright with verdure ; it lies tolerably low, rising in no part more than 250 or 260 feet above the level of the sea. There is a cliff from ten to twenty feet high on the west coast. The coral reef where I landed did not appear to extend far from the shore. The boat not being able to land me high and dry, I was obliged to wade a little way through the water and thus reach the shore, where, to my surprise, I found a wooden landing- place with steps, which, in such a spot, at first considerably puzzled me until I connected it with the missionaries. A number of natives, among whom I did not perceive a single woman, were ranged on the shore, and many of them came and shook hands with me. Among them wasa young Albino with reddish-yellow hair and with a fine clear skin. Supposing, as a matter of course, that he was of white blood I spoke to him in English, but was instantly convinced that I had made a mistake, and that he did not understand a word Thad said. He was a pure-bred native, less dark than his fellow-islanders, who themselves, indeed, had much lighter skins than I expected ; Ishould describe them as of a bright brown colour. They saluted me with the word ‘Alofa’ (love), to which I replied by ‘Aloha, which is a form used in Hawaii on these occasions, meaning the same thing. On leaving the landing-place I made for the village of c2 20 THE CRUISH OF THE ‘CURAGOA,’ Alofi, and called at the house of the Rev. Mr. Lawes, a member of the London Missionary Society, settled in the island with his wife and two children since 1861. His house is large, solidly and tastefully built, with a roof of sugar-cane leaves, which, extending beyond the walls, forms a sort of verandah. The interior is divided into three compartments, the partitions of which do not reach to the MISSION HOUSE, NIUE. ceiling. Mr. Lawes received me in the middle one, where I found Dr. Picken and Mr. Halpin, of our ship, who had hurried to visit his wife, who was suffering from a very serious affection complicated with delirium and _ persistent want of sleep. The missionary is an agreeable looking man of rather dark complexion and slight make. He was dressed entirely in white, and after expressing his regrets at being NIUH, OR SAVAGE ISLAND. 21 unable, on account of his wife’s position, to show his fellow- countrymen the attentions he could have wished, he offered me some cocoa-nut milk, which I drank with pleasure, enor- mous oranges with very thick rinds, and baked bananas, which I found not at all bad. I led him to chat with me about his island, and it is to him I am indebted for part of the information which I shall presently detail. Near the Missionary’s house is a tolerably large church, also thatched with sugar-cane leaves, which seems to be the case with all dwellings of the natives, that are extremely clean, some of them having their walls whitewashed and openings screened by what looked like rude imitations of Venetian blinds. Iset out to examine the island with a young lad, attached to the mission, as my guide. Some ten of the natives fol- lowed me, shouting in such a way as to deafen me. I gave them all jew’s-harps, which appeared to amuse them much, and to put them in great good humour. One of them seemed bent on allowing himself the privilege of trying each of them before choosing, but I took the liberty not to gratify this fancy; others wished to smoke my pipe, which I could prevent only by telling them it was tabu. They gave me the title of Kapena, that is to say, captain. I did hope they would tire themselves out at last and have done with their deafening cries, but all in vain: I do confess I found their noise a thorough nuisance. On my way I met numbers of natives carrying poles on their shoulders, as do the Hawai- ians, to the two ends of which were tied pies, yams, and other eatables. For a space of four miles I proceeded on eCES 22 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURACOA.’ a road firm and strong in some places, and with a gentle rise. As I went along I met with a plantation of young cocoanut-trees, sugar-canes, yams, and other vegetables ; and I had the opportunity of shooting some small birds. The sun was very hot, and there was a total lack of shade, the natural vegetation of the soil consisting for the most part of low shrubs. Even the cocoanut-trees were small, either from being yet very young or of a dwarf species. At length I came upon a sort of wood, and left the road to take shelter under the trees, not one of which was of any considerable height, or as much as two feet in diameter ; in fact, I did not meet with a single fine tree, but it struck me that all of them had smooth bark. I noticed some Aleu- rites and Calophyllum. The ferns did not seem to abound in varieties, though they were very numerous ; they all had large fronds, but I did not see a single specimen of an arborescent species A Dracena attracted attention by its flowers of fine red. Idid not hear the song of a bird; but, on the other hand, I saw a great number of pretty little lizards, some handsome butterflies, a large species of spider, and a grasshopper. I picked up three species of small land- shells. I found the walking in the wood fatiguing, the sur- face being so uneven, and filled with holes not always very easy to perceive. The soil, of a reddish tint, superficially was very moist; and yet I could not finda drop of drinkable water. Towards 3 o’clock I turned back with the intention of making a longer excursion next day. Several of the NIUH, OR SAVAGE ISLAND. 23 natives, who had followed me, took a fancy to feel my legs, arms, and hands, in order, I suppose, to get some notion of my strength, which seemed to surprise them, and as they expressed a wish to have me try the force of my hands upon theirs, I satisfied them by a grip which made them shout out, and appeared to astonish them. I may notice that the children occasionally placed one of their hands upon their mouth in passing before me. When I arrived at the top of the cliff I found a great number of women assembled, who seemed to have come there together by appointment during their husbands’ absence. They laughed like mad, and my appearance did not in the least disconcert them. Several were very pretty and engaging; one of them appeared delighted at my taking notice of her baby. I took leave of them, saluting them with the word Alofa, which they re- echoed with one voice. On returning to the ‘ Curagoa,’ I picked up on the rocks several curious Algv for my collection. I found the ship’s deck covered with natives, and I learnt that at least fifty canoes had boarded her during my absence. The Commo- dore had found these visitors so annoying, so importunate, so wearisome, such obstinate beggars, that he was im- patiently waiting my return to stand out to sea again ; and thus it was that, contrary to my expectations, I was obliged to limit my observation of the island to a few hours’ survey. Our boats were hoisted in, and the signal for sailing soon given. It was then a very striking scene presented itself: as soon as the ship began to move, the natives who had 24, THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA, manifested no disposition to retire before, leapt into the sea and swam back to their canoes. Several had expressed a most eager desire to accompany us as far as Samoa, but the Commodore did not think proper to gratify it. Niue Island may be some nine miles in breadth. A road thirty-three miles in extent passes round the island, at some points diverging considerably from the coast. The forma- tion of this road is due to the influence of the missionary, the only white man living in the island, and it is owing to him that it is kept in good repair by means of natives con- demned to hard labour for crimes or offences. The island is entirely a coral formation, and must have been gradually upheaved, as would appear to be indicated by three distinct layers evidently of successive superposition, which are observable in one spot. It seems, moreover, from an inspec- tion of the banks that this uprising or upheaving action has not yet exhausted itself. To it may no doubt be attributed a narrow deep fissure which extends nearly a mile into the interior. Lime abounds in many places, as well as a great quantity of sea shells. The aspect of the island is of a uniform character ; so that a walk of two miles, no matter in what direction, supplies an accurate conception of the whole. The water in the wells is brackish, which in general obliges the natives to confine themselves to cocoanut milk. “In the interior are to be found pools of not more than two feet in diameter, which contain fresh water, the level of which seems affected by the tides, a fact noticeable in some parts of the island of Oahu. It was in these holes NIUH, OR SAVAGE ISLAND. to Co or pools that the natives used formerly to collect the stalagmites, which they made use of as projectiles in their combats and which they adroitly threw without the aid of a sling. . The layer of vegetable earth which lies on the coral is almost everywhere from five to six feet in depth, and appeared to me much more fertile than the missionary had led me to suppose. It grows the cocoanut-tree, the guava, the orange-tree, the banana, plantain, and the melon; all, except the first which is indigenous, are of recent introduc- tion into the island. Among other vegetable products I may notice the yam, arrowroot, sugar-cane, and taro; I also met with a white pea growing wild. There exists but one indigenous mammifer in the island, a small rodent of a size. between a water-rat and a mouse. I must not, how- ever, pass over a great bat which I saw flying at a remark- able height. With the exception of fowls, which are reared everywhere, there are but few birds; among them are pigeons or doves of a green colour, parrots, a pretty little green bird with white feathers under the tail, a small martin or swallow, the tropic bird or the boatswain, whose tail feathers are used to make elegant fly-brushes, the handles of which are neatly bound round with plaited human hair. I had not time to make any observations respecting the fish, but I noticed quantities of sharks con- stantly accompanied by their little pilots, and beautiful small fish about an inch long, of the deepest blue colour, but which I could not succeed in catching among the rocks by 26 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURA(OA.’ the shore. The cow, goat, pig, and dog have been intro- duced; at all events I am not aware that the latter animal was known to the natives before the arrival of the white man. They breed a great quantity of pigs, which struck me as being generally small and rather meagre. There is but one horse in the island and that belongs to the mission- ary; not a venomous reptile is to be found, and even the centipede is unknown. The things most in request by the natives in their barter with the whites, are gaily-printed calicoes, hardware, and silver coin. They give in exchange cocoanut fibre, pump- kins, fowls, and other produce. Occasionally they offer cotton, which they as yet cultivate on much too small a scale. The average temperature during the rainy season is about 80° Fahrenheit, and this would seem to be pretty nearly the case throughout the year. The climate is healthy, the diseases few, and with the exception of dysen- tery, which made its appearance once during the last ten years, no epidemic has been known, or, at all events, remem- bered. The population increases in a ratio of 22 per cent. annually. In 1864 the number of inhabitants amounted to 5,001, distributed in the six following villages: Avatele, 1,075; Alofi, 1,011; Hakupu, 631; Mutalau, 910; Liku, 334; Tavahiki, 1,040. In the course of the years 1862 and 1863, some Peruvian slavers, which roved through these seas as unmistakable pirates, inflicted great mischief on their way on the natives of this island, killing several of them, and carrying off bo “I NIUE, OR SAVAGH ISLAND. about 100 young men from a village, which has been in consequence so depopulated, that scarcely any other than widows and orphans are to be found in it. Since these barbarous attacks, the islanders have been be- seeching the missionary to acquaint the British Govern- ment with their unanimous desire to be taken under its protection. The inhabitants of Niue are good-looking, well and strongly built, of a good height, of a cheerful temperament, and, as they now appear, of a gentle disposition. Their skin is free from blemish, and I did not meet with a single instance of a scurfy surface. The only case of elephantiasis T remarked was that of our pilot, who had a slight affection of this sort in his two legs. But I was assured by the Albino, already mentioned, that there were eight other cases in the island. The natives of both sexes go generally bare-headed, with the exception of the missionary’s policemen, who wear a four-cornered hat, sometimes black with a white or red cross, sometimes in silk with a front of red or white paper ; which said police officials, I must own, looked to me like ‘reoular Guys. I saw very few men wearing shirts and pantaloons ; the majority had nothing else on than a skirt, apparently made of bark, which is fastened round the loins, and descends to the middle of the thighs. The toilette of the women is exactly the same as that of the men, save as respects the young girls, who in addition 28 THE CRUISH OF THE ‘OURAQOA? wear a kind of pinafore, which covers their breasts and reaches to the skirt. Like the men, too, though exceptions are to be found among these, they wear their hair short ; I did not see a single instance to the contrary. They are well made, have splendid teeth, and soft hands with delicate taper fingers. In the course of my ramble I met a young woman fit to be, from head to foot, a model for a sculptor ; never did I see anything like or even approachmg it m New Zealand. These people, so well knit, vigorous, and active, are endowed with an intelligence which makes them easily receptive of instruction. Not a single pagan exists any longer in the island, and nearly everybody knows how to read and write, thanks to the schools established in each village. ; The language has a great affinity to that of Hawaii, so much so that the ten first numerals are almost identical in the two languages, and that many substantives are precisely similar : as, for instance, ihu, nose; vavae, leg; lima, hand ; mate, death, &c. It appears that they were once ferocious in their wars, though there is reason to believe they never were canni- bals. Their principal arms were spears, tomahawks, and missiles made of the stalagmites, rounded by the action of water, to which I have already referred. The form of government was formerly aristocratic or feudal; but in a revolt at a comparatively recent period, the chiefs were all NIUE, OR SAVAGE ISLAND. 29 slain, and now it has become in some sort patriarchal, the head of each family managing his own private affairs as he pleases, and coming to an understanding with others, under the missionary’s direction, in matters of common interest and in the control and punishment of delinquents. The morality of this little population is remarkable: the laws of marriage are respected, adultery and illicit intercourse are rare. Theft is frequent enough, especially as regards food in general; it is punished like other crimes by hard labour on the roads. As the change supposed to have taken place in the dis- position and social condition of these islanders is cited as one of the most marvellous instances of missionary success, it is a matter of some interest to ascertain to what extent this pretension is justified. Niue was first visited by Cook in 1774, who, having attempted a landing, was furiously set upon by the natives, and not being under any necessity of spilling blood, humanely took his leave, satisfied with the innocent revenge of calling it ‘Savage Island.’ From this time the island was regarded as being the nest of an ex- ceptionally truculent people. The first missionary notice is thought not to dispel this idea. In 1850, Mr. Williams landed two teachers upon it ; they were presently set upon by the savages, who tore their clothes to fragments, and seemed as if they would serve them in a similar manner, which, on the supposition of their assailants being the rudest of uncivilized men, it is rather singular they did not. But, at all events, they frightened the teachers away. The 80 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA.’ next visit, we are informed by Mr. Murray,' was in 1840, by a party from Samoa in a small schooner, but with no perma- nent result ; for what with ‘ great dangers’ from the savages, which are not specified, and the roughness of the weather, from both which they were of course ‘ mercifully preserved, they returned to Samoa, taking with them an ‘immense quantity of weapons,’ which they were glad to purchase in order to ‘disarm the noisy and ungovernable barbarians who surrounded their little craft in numbers that made them feel anything but secure.’ It is manifest that the mercifully preserved party had been doing a little welcome barter—they pleasantly call it ‘ disarming ’—with the savages who had been so dangerous to them, and that those savages were much better pleased to sell their weapons than to use them. More- over, three natives had spontaneously gone on board the schooner and been quietly taken away without let or hindrance from the wild multitude around it. This is evidently inconsistent with any notion of supreme savagery, and, so far then as the testimony has gone, it is clear that the inhabitants have not yet deserved the hard names they have been called. Six years after this two missionaries visited the island, and landed a teacher, a native of it, who had been many years at Samoa. He was, of course, exposed to great perils ; but it seems that, on the day following his arrival, after ' *Missions in Western Polynesia,’ &c. by A. W. Murray, twenty- five years a Missionary in Western Polynesia, in connection with the London Missionary Society, pp. 360-881. NIUE, OR SAVAGH ISLAND. BL giving up the contents of his chest, he was safely housed and left unmolested; a result by no means discreditable to the ‘ungovernable barbarians.’ In 1849 Mr. Murray him- self! to whom we are indebted for these details, visited the island, and reported all things quiet, and, so far as missionary prospects were concerned, in a hopeful state ; nevertheless, writing in 1862, and referring to this visit, he says of the islanders that they were then (1849) ‘the wildest heathens he had ever seen.’ Luckily we have some other evidence, not missionary, which enables us to test the value of this judg- ment. In the same year (1849) a most competent observer, Captain Erskine, in H.M.S. ‘ Havannah, lay off the island for a day, during which the ship was surrounded by and thronged with natives, and this was the conclusion he came to: ¢ Alto- gether they impressed me very favourably with their dis- position, nor did they seem wanting in natural capacity.’ ” No trace here of the ‘ wild ungovernable barbarism’ from which there had been lately so ‘ merciful a deliverance,’ nor of the exceptionally wild heathenism that had been so mani- fest to the missionary. Our next witnesses are again two missionaries, Messrs. Murray and Sunderland, in 1852. They inform us, that Paulo, a native teacher, having converted two or three hun- . dred of the islanders, being over 4,000 in number, the con- 1 ‘Missions in Western Polynesia,’ &e. p. 363. 2 ‘Journal of a Cruise among the Islands of the Western Pacific, &c., in H.M.S. “ Havannah,”’ by John Elphinstone Erskine, Captain, R.N. _ He adds that, ‘with few exceptions, the expression of their countenances was intelligent and prepossessing.’ 32 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAGOA, verts desired to builda chapel, whereat the heathen majority, very unreasonably, of course, took offence, and threatened violent opposition ; but no such opposition was made, and not a single outrage, or attempt at outrage, is recorded. But when we reflect how jealous much more civilized people are of any invasion of their religion, it seems to me that this tolerance is highly to the credit of the uncivilized.’ And so docile and willing were they to be taught, that we actually find, by the same authority—in 1855—that ‘ the desire for teachers is now universal, and we hope very shortly to oc- cupy the island fully.” We are not very much surprised, therefore, at finding Messrs. Herbert and Drummond, in 1857, confirming Captain Erskine’s favourable impression, and declaring that the ‘Savage Islanders are a remarkably mild and intelligent looking people, though we cannot quite ascribe these national characteristics to the efforts of our good friend Paulo—the unassisted native teacher—who some five years before had gathered round him only 300 con- verts. National character does not change with such rail- road speed; nor will even the missionaries, we suppose, credit the teacher Paulo with powers of conversion exceeding those of the Apostle Paul. Finally, in 1862, Mr. Murray, as he himself informs us, visited Niue; and this is what he says: ‘ My last visit to the island was at the close of 1853. At that time it was much in the same state as when it was 1 The Chinese are not savages, but we see, by the recent massacre at Tien-tsin, what passions are aroused by the intrusion of a foreign religion. NIUE, OR SAVAGE ISLAND. 38 discovered by Cook. Now how changed! how mar- vellously changed!’ That it was ‘ at that time ’ much in the same state as when Cook saw it, it is easy for me to credit ; but how Mr. Murray professing to believe in its extreme savagery at that period could say so, after having told us only a few pages before, when speaking of this year of similitude 1853, that ‘the desire for teachers is now uni- versal, and we shall very shortly occupy the island,’ would be inexplicable, were we not aware of the irresistible pro- pensity of the missionaries to proclaim marvels, and, by means of vague generalities, to give a semblance of sup- port to their highly-coloured statements. Captain Erskine, though far from underrating the value or merit of their services, has protested strongly against their exaggeration of the difficulties with which they have to contend, and of the habit of some of them —less usual, it is true, with those of the London Society than some others — to be perpetually giving accounts of ‘miraculous deliver- ances,’ and, he might have added, of miraculous successes. At all events, taking Niue as a test of their descriptive accuracy, I think evidence enough has been adduced to show, that their sombre unsubstantial sketches of the aborigines do not obtain confirmation when placed by the side of clearly ascertained facts. Hence it is not surprising that, when to minds influenced by these sketches the oppor- tunity of direct observation arrives, there should be the astonishment which was experienced by the officers of H.M.S. ‘Fawn’ in 1862, when such an opportunity was D 34. THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA. offered. ‘Instead,’ says Mr. Hood in his interesting notes of the cruise of that ship, ‘of the uncouth ferocious savages we had expected, we found them pleasant good-looking fellows, of a light olive complexion, with well-shaped features, clean, quite sufficiently attired for the climate, merry and happy, but quiet and well-behaved.’ But how then, it will be asked, are we to account for the ferocity displayed by these people for which Cook gave their island the bad name? The missionaries can help us to the explanation, though they make no ethnological use of it. ‘The natives, says Mr. Murray,” ‘had a great dread of disease, and they had an idea that if foreigners were admitted among them they would introduce disease, and when any of themselves left the island and returned, they were regarded in much the same light as foreigners, and the consequence was, were nearly in as much danger.’ Now this peculiar prejudice is merely mentioned to enhance the difficulties the missionaries have had to con- tend with; but it is of much more use, as showing why, when this notion was in full vigour, there must have been intense excitement whenever any foreigners attempted to land, and that their ferocity towards strangers no more implies a social ferocity of disposition and manners than did the cruel persecution of witches imply a general barbarism among our ancestors in the days of the dread of witch- craft. Since Cook’s time the prejudice has evidently abated; and as, since then, there has been a sort of invasion by the ! Hood, p. 24. ? Murray, p. 360. (Jv) OK NIUE, OR SAVAGE ISLAND. Tongans, some of whom remained and settled in the country, it is possible that this has been one of the causes of its abatement. At all events, enough has been said to remove their progress in civilization out of the category of the marvellous, and to make us regret that we have not been made acquainted with the real original character and condition of this manifestly prepossessing people,' at the time they were first made known to us. 1 That this epithet is warranted will be seen from the following passage, in which Mr. Hood is alluding to the departure of the ‘Fawn.’ ‘At sunset we reluctantly bade them farewell; and, after another general hand-shaking with old and young, who pressed round the boat, some swimming alongside to bid us good-bye, we left the shore of these highly interesting and pleasant people, and their adventurous instructors, in whose future fate we shall all feel an interest, although I entertain no fear for their safety.—Hood, p. 26. 36 THE ORUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA,’ CHAPTER IIL. TUTUILA—SAMOAN GROUP. (Juty 1 To 4.) Pango-Pango Harbour—Appearance of the Natives—Statements by the Mis- sionaries—A_ Pilot who takes his Ease—Dwellings—Visit to the Missionary —Trip into the Interior—Village of Fungatele—American Artisans—Native Women—The Chief dines on Board—Native Dance—Christian Church— Cascade—Population—Climate—Manners—Progress due to Christianity— Indigenous Products. On the evening of the same day that we arrived at Niue, we set sail for Tutuila Island, one of the Samoan or Navigator group. Favoured by a pleasant trade-wind, the ‘Curacoa,’ under sail, went ahead at about the rate of nine knots an hour. On June 30 we met with several squalls which darkened the sky, but which had not much effect on our way. Tn our course we passed Manua, where we hove to for about an hour. One of our officers, Mr. Foljambe, who landed at the little village of Feleasau and walked along the coast to the missionary’s house at Tau, described the path as being kept in good repair by prisoners who have been guilty of public offences. Erskine’ speaks of Feleasau as ‘a_ beautifully 1 Erskine, p. 36. co Ni TUTUILA. kept village, where he and his party, on landing, were taken to a large house, the Falatele, or public house of reception, in which strangers are entertained at the public expense. He adds that he had never seen a people more prepossessing in appearance and manner. Hood! also bears witness to the hospitality shown to Captain Cator and several of his officers, who passed a night in the village. The scenery is described as beautiful, but the heat (July) very oppressive. On July 1, at daybreak, we came in sight of Tutuila, at about a distance of six miles. This island is mountainous, intersected by deep ravines, and well wooded. Some steep faces of the coast were covered with verdure only; on other spots, where the land was lower, the soil was dotted over with clusters of cocoanut trees, which were much larger and prettier than at Niue. We passed close to the islet of Anuu, also referred to by some navigators under the name of Cocoanut Island. The Commodore, judging from his charts that he ran some risk in searching for a safe anchor- age, lay to for a pilot, who soon made his appearance in a whale-boat. This pilot was a native of Honolulu, who spoke a little English and who lived upon Anuu islet. He told us he had not seen a ship for two months. He directed us to cast anchor in Pango-Pango Bay, the best port of the Archipelago, which we did about nine in the morning in twenty-two fathoms, after having entered the harbour through a very narrow passage. ‘The scenery was magni- ! Hood, p. 30. 3 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA,’ (we) ficent. Some features are well described in the following passage, which I extract from my lamented friend and companion Lieutenant Meade’s journal. ‘ Nothing,’ he says, ‘could be more superb. At sea the contrast between the brilliant cobalt blue within the reefs which skirt the shores, and the dark olive-green of the deeper waters, separated by lines of foaming breakers on the coral walls; on land the black lava rocks along the shore, with intervals of white sand dazzling in the sunlight and fringed with cocoanuts, palms, and bananas, bending to the sea breeze, and inter- spersed with the thick-thatched domes of the native houses ; the whole surmounted by the towering crater sides smothered with the densest foliage to the very crest, save in one direction, where a single lofty cliff rears its grey walls against the sky, as grimly and as bare as when, thousands of years ago, the volcano was in the plenitude of its power.’ To complete this picture 1 am tempted to add the following description of this remarkable locality from Mr. Hood.! ‘To those who have never beheld tropical scenery, it is difficult to give any description which will enable them to realise the singular beauty of these islands. Here high rugged mountains, clothed with dense green forests, sink sheer down to the water, a grey precipice now and then relieving the eye. Against the blue sky the outline is broken by a graceful palm or some high pinnacle, or by the waving bamboo or banana. Silvery sands stretch along in front of the narrow plain, shaded by thick groves of cocoa- ' “Cruise of the Fawn,’ p. 40. TUTUILA. 39 nut trees, whose leaves wave and dance, reflecting the rays of the bright sun, underneath which are the scattered villages of the natives. Upon the narrow fringing coral reef the dark green waves break dazzlingly, while at the head of the bay the white cottage and mission church give an air of quiet civilization to the scene, enlivened by num- bers of canoes, with their picturesque occupants, moving about in all directions.’ A great number of women were busy on the shore catching shell-fish. By means of my glass I perceived, though not able to distinguish accurately her features, a young girl who was entirely naked; as soon as she thought she was observed, she burst into a laugh and covered her- self with a banana leaf. Dwellings were to be seen on the points of the bay wherever there was sufficient space for building, and all of them were shaded with cocoanut trees, the fruit of which supplied the drink of the inhabitants. Presently a multitude of outrigger canoes swarmed off to the ‘Curagoa,’ so small for the most part as to contain not more than one or two persons; nevertheless, that there were very large ones in use by the natives we had our- selves an opportunity of observing. They contained both men and women, as well as unripe bananas for sale. Neither sex appeared to be so well-looking, or so clean, as the natives of Niue Island. Their skin was covered with spots and scars, arising either from the itch, or some other disease. I observed everywhere on their backs, shoulders, legs, large blackish pimples, such as frequently present 40 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA, themselves in the Hawaiian Islands. Their noses are very flat as compared with those of the Niue Islanders, and the nostrils much dilated. The men are tall and stout, but their muscles appear flabby; many are tatooed from their middle down to their legs, and the designs are so full and well executed as to give the impression of their wearing pantaloons. They smear their hair with lime, which gives it a reddish tint. The women have no other covering than an apron made of bark attached to their loins; they make a practice of whitening their hair with a paste, which looked to me like arrowroot. These islanders are not quite so noisy as those of Niue, but they are not a particle less in- considerate or inquisitive. A woman seemed to be mightily amused by thrusting her head through a port-hole in order to have a good view of one of our officers who was in the act of dressing; and it was hardly to prevent his being unaware of what she was doing, that she cried out audibly to him, ‘Say! say!’ Soon after we had anchored, one of the two missionaries of the island, Mr. Powell, paid us a visit in a ten-oared boat. He was accompanied by Maunga, the chief of Pango- Pango, a man of mature age, of a calm and dignified deport- ment, who had for the occasion donned a black coat over the shirt and waistcoat which constituted his usual attire.! 1 Maunga is described by Erskine as being ‘in 1849 a fine look- ing young man, ina sailor’s loose jacket and an ample flowing robe of coloured siapo,’ who had recently arrived from Manua to assume the chieftainship of this island.—‘Islands of the Western Pacific,’ p. 42. a d NATIVES QF TUTUILA. TUTUILA. 4] The missionary told us that, only five weeks before, there had been a tolerably bloody fray in the island on account of a woman about whom two chiefs had quarrelled. In refer- ence to this matter he observed, that since the introduction of fire-arms among the natives their contests had been much less murderous than before. He informed us also that they were exceedingly anxious to place themselves under British protection, that neither France nor any other nation might take possession of the isle; and he preferred a request to the Commodore, in their name, to authorize them to hoist the English flag, to which Sir William replied, the thing was not possible. It appears from what he told us, that, two years before, the Governor of New Caledonia had compelled the Protestant missionaries to abandon the Loyalty Islands, where they had settled; and that, in con- sequence, a deputation had been sent from London to the Emperor of the French, who immediately gave orders that the Protestant missions were not to be interfered with. He added that, in consequence, Bishop Patteson was then on his way to ascertain if the imperial instructions had been carried out. While the missionary was talking to us about all these matters, the pilot had remained on board, and got so very drunk that he could not stand, which did not prevent his proposing to the officers a fishing-party. The Commodore, displeased, but not wishing to be uncivil, asked him re- peatedly why he did not leave the ship; but all in vain; he either did not comprehend or would not go, and caused all 42 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA, manner of annoyance to the sailors busy in swabbing the decks. About half -past threeSir William placed at my dis- posal his gig, as I wished to make an excursion on land. I had considerable difficulty in passing the coral reef by a very narrow and shallow channel, in which I observed some admirable specimens of madrepores. I landed at a village agreeably situated in the midst of cocoanut trees, the inhabitants of which came out to meet me, and appeared very friendly and good-natured. I spoke to them in Hawaiian, which they seemed to understand without much difficulty. The Samoan houses are so prettily and inge- niously constructed that I will insert here a minute account, given by Mr. Hood,’ of one of them, im which he passed a day and a night. ‘Upon a raised platform of rough stones, covered with gravel, varying in diameter according to the size of the building, beyond which it extends from ten to twenty feet, stands what at a distance looks like a huge mushroom, the usual size being about a hundred feet in circumference. It is, in fact, a great dome-shaped roof, raised from the ground upon posts about four feet high, and the same distance apart, between which a sort of blind made of plaited cocoanut leaves is let fall at night or in stormy weather.. This roof is so constructed that it can be removed in three or four parts, and is sometimes taken by sea on a raft of canoes. It is supported in the centre by three posts, about twenty-five feet high. Rounded beams, 1 Hood, ‘ Cruise of the Fawn,’ p. 32. TUTUILA. 45 cut from the heart of the bread-fruit tree, which treated thus is very durable, are placed at equal distances horizontally, and tied firmly and very neatly with sinnet to the cross pieces. To these are lashed closely a great number of small battens, also of the hard part of the bread-fruit tree, in rows of six, generally of darker and lighter shades alternately. To this the thatch is made fast in a very ingenious manner, being composed of the long leaves of the sugar-cane pinned like a fringe to reeds with the rib of the cocoanut leaf. This part of the work is done by women; and one, if she works hard, can prepare about fifty of these reeds in a day. Each is about five feet long, and, in the way they are laid on, about four thousand are required for the roof of a good-sized house. The effect inside of these numerous reeds of the same size, carefully lashed with cocoanut cord, is very pleasing. The floor, of fine gravel, is covered with mats, clean ones always being laid for strangers. The house contains but one apartment; but bedrooms are formed at night by the mosquito tents, which are about eight feet long and five wide, made of dark siapo, and are let down at equal distances around the central posts. On either side of it is a fire-place, a circular hollow ten or twelve feet in diameter lined with clay. In several of the houses were women seated upon mats, who showed such of the sailors as were curious to have a peep a whitish preparation of food baked in leaves.’ T advanced as far as a rivulet bordered by a picturesque rock with a very high peak, from which there was a Ad, THE ORUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA,”’ splendid view. I endeavoured to procure some cocoanuts of an old native ; but the miserly fellow having asked me an absurd price for half-a-dozen nuts, which he had knocked down and unhusked, I refused to buy them, whereupon he at once offered them to me for a small piece of tobacco. I met here several men who wore their hair in a strange fashion: short and black on the top of the head, but long and reddish below and all round. I returned to the shore without difficulty, and had myself carried to the canoe, which I preferred to wading and getting my boots wet. The water was extremely shallow, and the boat grazed the bottom several times on its way to the ship. At ten in the evening the thermometer stood at 85° on deck and 105° in the gun-room. The trawl which I had thrown overboard before going to land brought me twenty species of shells, generally small, and of little interest. The next day, being Sunday, about half-past three I landed with the Commodore, under a brilliant sky, to pay a visit to the missionary, whose house is built on the top of the hill at some distance from the sea. We found only his wife, who at once presented us with a cup of milk. Mrs. Powell, the mother of six children, is suffering from ele- phantiasis, of which she hopes the climate of England will cure her in a year, whither she is on the point of going with all her family after an expatriation of twenty years. She said the people had a great aptness for learning, and with the exception of some old men and children, every- TUTUILA. 45 body knew how to read, write, and cypher,’ and that there was in each village a schoolmaster, fed, clothed, and paid by the natives. She showed us several books printed in the native language ; among others a Bible, a work on geo- graphy, and a dictionary. With respect to this language I may say, it seemed to me that the Samoans use an ‘F’ wherever the Hawaiians use an ‘H’ or ‘ W;’ for instance, they say fafine (woman) for wahine, fai (water) for wai, &e. About five o’clock, after his Sunday duties, the missionary returned. He called our attention to the very fine view from his house, and showed us over the various parts of his residence, the roof of which he had constructed himself, well executed, but, of course, not so skilfully done as that which the Alofi natives had made for Mr. Lawes. The form of government in the island, he told us, was patri- archal; also that there is a chief in every village, that all the chiefs are equal one with another, and that they confine themselves entirely to the affairs of their own districts. He spoke highly of the inhabitants, who almost all of them buy Bibles bound in calf at nine shillings each, and who contribute a very considerable sum (1,200/. in 1864) to the support of foreign missions. While we were conversing, tea and bread and butter were brought in. Among other things, we were told that an American blacksmith, who had been settled thirteen years in the island, made harpoons and fish-hooks for the whole archipelago, which he disposed of in exchange for cocoanut oil. Tutuila pro- 1 This, as we shall find (at p. 59), is an over-estimate. 46 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA’’ duces annually 130 tuns of oil at 22/. or 23/. a tun, payable in silver coin or merchandise. Soap and white calico are the articles most in request by the females, who are so cleanly that they are always busy washing. Mr. Powell conducted us to the shore. On our way I picked up several land shells, one of which was very pretty. My attention was called to the Tutui or candle-nut (Aleurites triloba), which grows naturally in the island, and the cotton plant under cultivation, which seemed to me to be well grown. There is said to be a great variety of wood exceedingly well adapted for wheelwright work and carpentry, which was formerly used by the natives for | making their weapons, that are now laid aside for ours. On the sides of our road grew an Asclepia, with flowers of a reddish orange tint, with fruit full of a white and shining silk-like substance, of the same species, it seemed to me, as that which is so common in India, China, and Hawaii. Musquitoes, which are abundant here, very much annoyed us in our walk. I saw two white birds flying very high over a valley, which I took for hawks, but which the missionary asserted were terns. The next day, in the morning early, I again went on shore, accompanied on this occasion by Messrs. Foljambe and Veitch, with the intention of crossing the island to visit Massacre Bay. We stopped a moment at the missionary’s, who was good enough to provide us with two stout natives and a young boy as guides. After passing through some brushwood, we crossed a brook in which women were busy TUTUILA. 4.7 washing their linen, which they rubbed and beat upon stones, as I had seen done by the Chinese and Hawaiians. This practice, still so common among the French, once existed in England, as we learn from a letter of Dr. John London, one of the visitors of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIIT., to Lord Cromwell, making it a ground for granting a new town hall ‘ to the honest men of Readinge.’ For, he says, ‘their Town Hall is a very small howse, and stondeth upon the Ryuer wher ys the common wassching place of the most part of the town, and in the cession dayes and other court dayes ther ys such betying’ with batildores as oon man can nott here another nor the guest here the charge given.’! I saw cocoanut trees, breadfruit trees, the fruit of which had not yet attained half its full size, plantations of plantains and bananas, patches of taro set in a dry soil, contrary to the Hawaiian practice in localities like this, on the seaboard, which exclusively confines its cultivation to arti- ficial marshes. These marshes are formed in this way. A piece of land, varying in size, is surrounded by an earth bank ; the ground being then turned up and irrigated by some neigh- bouring stream, is worked up by the hand and trodden until it becomes of so miry a nature that you may sink two or more feet init. The soil being thus prepared, the tops of the taro plants are set in rows, about a foot or so apart, where they are allowed to remain until their tuberculous roots are fully formed, when they are ready for use. In Hawaii, some taro is also cultivated in a dry soil; but this is in the 1 Ellis, Original Letters, first series. 48 THE ORUISE OF THE ‘CURAQOA.’ uplands, where there is more rain and a lower temperature ; it grows less quickly, but is considered to be of a finer quality. I also observed pine-apples, but the cultivation of them in general appeared to me slovenly. We now got into a path with a slight ascent, which shortly brought us into the midst of extensive woods. Here we were surprised by a rattling shower, which obliged us to take shelter under a bushy tree nearly three feet in diameter, with dark green foliage ; my guides brought me a large banana leaf, which made me a capital umbrella. When the rain was over we quitted our shelter, the atmosphere still continuing moist and thick. Isawa tolerable number of trees of different species, and a very great variety of ferns, among which were several tree-ferns, which sometimes, I was told, attained the height of forty feet, but I had not the chance of seeing any of such a growth. It was a fine forest; it had not, however, so tropical a character as I had expected. I saw arrow-root, tutui (Alewrites triloba), and ginger, which looked very pretty, with its cluster of white flowers tinged with pink, resembling somewhat in shape a bunch of white erapes. The farther we advanced the steeper the path became, as well as stony and difficuit. The boulders, formed of a sort of broken lava, were so slippery that I was obliged to make use of my hands to prevent my slipping back some feet each time I planted my foot. The ground was strewed with dead land-shells, while live ones were to be seen upon the ferns and other plants. In two or three little brooks I — crossed I saw several varieties of live shells, some of them of a remarkably handsome form. TUTUILA. 49 The rain soon began to fall again, but we made the best of it, and set to work shooting some small birds, several of which were lost in the brushwood. Among those which we found were a sort of kingfisher, a small species, very much resembling the laughing jackass of Australia. I also killed a bird of fair size, like in its plumage and shape to a hen blackbird, but larger, and also a bird of a pretty brown colour, with bright yellow about it, and yellow flaps below the eyes. In the interior of a small white egg I found a little black lizard, about an imch and a half long, so extremely nimble that I had considerable difficulty in getting hold of it, though just released from its shell. As at Niue, the greater part of the trees I saw in my way had a smooth fine bark ; which, according to my impression, appears to be a usual type in tropical countries, where I do not recollect to have often met with roughish bark like that of the elm and oak. Having reached the highest point of the island, I could see the sea and Bay of Funga-sa, or sacred bay (Pango- Pango Bay is called Funga-loa, which means deep bay). Some fields of taro are to be found on these heights; but I did not stay long on the spot, wishing to go on exploring. At first I found the descent as steep and abrupt on this side as the ascent had been on the other; afterwards it became more gradual and less rough, and our way still lay through the wood, which extends equally far down on this side as on the other. Having reached the extreme limit of the road, T found myself within a few steps of the village of Funga- 4? a8 50 THE ORUISH OF THE ‘CURACGOA.’ tele, where I arrived all dripping with ram. I entered the nearest house, and found there Mr. Carr, our photographer, busy dressing the wounds in one hand and leg which he had got in scaling the heights. The house belonged to an American of the name of Braidwood, who had been settled in the island for two or three years, where he gained his livelihood by working for the missionary and natives. While a torrent of rain FUNGASA, OR MASSACRE BAY. detained us under his roof, he had some ava prepared by the villagers, who masticate it after the fashion of the Hawaiians, of which I drank about half a pint in a cocoa- nut bowl. This liquor appeared to me very weak, and I do not recollect ever to have drank any that was more so in the Sandwich Islands. Our host said the natives never make it stronger in the Samoan group than this he gave us; it did not at all meet the fancy of our sailors. Recol- TUTUILA, ol lecting that this drink is severely prohibited through the Hawaiian archipelago by the missionaries, I was rather surprised to learn there is no prohibition of the kind what- ever either here or at Niue. The American carpenter was very emphatic in his praise of the hardness of most of the woods of Tutuila, which are very handsome. He gives the name of iron-wood to the Toa (Acacia heterophylla), employed not long since by the natives for making their spears, clubs, and tomahawks. We found at Braidwood’s another American, him whom I have mentioned above as a blacksmith, and whom no one knows by any other name than that of Sam. Both these men have been sailors in the merchant service, and both are bachelors. Braidwood suffers from asthma, and has a sickly look. He asserts that the climate is very unwholesome for the whites, and says that this season, which to me appears extremely damp, is called the dry season, or winter. He requested me to shoot a pig, which he desired to give the sailors who had come to visit him. The pig was immediately committed to the native oven, and I have reason to believe that our men found it very much to their liking. The village of Funga- tele, situate about 400 yards from the sea, upon a soil which is covered with broken stones, contains at the utmost a dozen dwellings of tolerable size, each occupied by a single family; they are of the same form as those previously mentioned, and are all paved within with small stones covered with mats made of pandanus leaves. Our appearance at Braidwood’s attracted a good many of the EB 2 cr bo THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURACGOA.’ neighbours. The women whom I saw had nothing on but a strip of cotton or tapa depending from their waists to the middle of their thighs. Several of them had flowers in their hair; a head-dress which showed them off to advan- tage; those who were mothers had breasts loose and falling, those who were not had them firm and very pointed. The men for the most part were tattoed from the breast to the knees with clever designs of a bluish tint, which gave them the appearance of being clothed. They offered me for sale spears, tomahawks, and shells ; I offered a dollar for a club which a woman handed to me, but after having taken my money she returned it to me, saying it was worth double. TI left the carpenter’s house about 2 o'clock, on my way back to the ship, while Mr. Carr was still trying to obtain some photographic sketches. - I stopped a moment on the summit of the pass to ight my pipe, and was again overtaken by a heavy shower. Having reached the coast about 5 o'clock, I fired two shots to announce my return, and as a signal for a boat. But the shots not having been heard, I was obliged to have recourse to the natives for one, which I did not get until after half an hour’s haggling, and showing them the money which I intended for their wage. I assisted the paddlers the whole way, and at leneth reached the ‘Curagoa, thoroughly drenched, where I found the Commodore at dinner, having the Missionary and the Chief Maunga for his guests. This chief, whom some sailors have honoured with the title of king, was suffering from elephantiasis, a common (J) TUTUILA. 5 malady of the country, but which did not at all prevent him,—any more than his wife,—finding the champagne very much to his taste. Maunga was seated at dinner opposite his wife, a good and simple person, with a very pleasing ex- pression of face (not shown in the wood-cut), who was con- GLE EMG WEA ie WIFE OF MAUNGA. stautly suckling her baby at table. These august guests, as also the Missionary’s children, greatly amused us by the surprise they testified at the sight of a piece of ice; a thing utterly unknown in the country. An ice-cream was then served, and poor Maunga at once sputtered out the first 54, THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAQGOA,’ mouthful under the impression it had burnt his tongue fear- fully. But a plate of potted salmon, to which he was helped, he found so delicious that he could not sufficiently express the delight it gave him. In a word the chief appeared to be delighted with his dinner, and especially with the music, which they took good care not to omit for his amusement. He said little, which I attributed to his suffering state; but he listened attentively, and it seemed to me he understood a little English and Hawaiian. After dinner, the chief gave us on board the exhibition of a native dance. It was opened by some half-dozen fine and well-knit fellows, whose oiled skins, and aprons of red Dracena, glittered in the light of our lanterns as, to the sound of a small drum, they executed a series of irregular movements in perfect unison with each other, and keeping time with a chant and clapping of hands by the group of native spectators of whom there may have been between eighty and a hundred. Of some the heads were bound round with large beads of the pearl nautilus, while those of others were radiant with wreaths composed of the flowers of the scarlet Hibiscus. The women next took their turn, similarly ornamented, and performed their part in first-rate style. The effect was charming. ‘It may seem incredible, says one who had witnessed these Samoan dances, ‘ to our fair sisters in England, that a young lady arrayed in no other garment but a mat tied round her waist should look handsomely dressed; but could they see the Samoan belles enter the circle in their full evening costume, with a or TUTUILA. their coronets of nautilus shells and scarlet Hibiscus, and their necklaces of red and yellow flowers, I believe they would admit that their appearance is highly imposing.’? The marked peculiarity was the enormous head of hair worn by each dancer. The hair is suffered to grow long and bushy, from the top round on either sides, and the long black hair being tied round with a string close to this mop is suffered to fall down behind, producing a singular effect. Had these dances been performed on shore, there would have been, we were assured by the Missionary who re- mained below while it was going on, some very indecent additions to it; on which account he had felt it his duty to discountenance and suppress this and other native dances. It is probable, however, that dancing of any kind, no matter how inoffensive, would have been regarded as profane according to the usual missionary estimate. Towards the close of the dance I went and sat near the chief, who had been sitting talking to Mr. Powell in a line with the door, so that he could see and hear what was going on. Being next the chief, he kept nudging me, putting his fingers to his mouth, and then looking sometimes at me and sometimes at Mr. Powell, conveying to me the impression that he would like to have a smoke if the Missionary were not present. Suggesting this to Sir William, the latter asked the chief if he did smoke, to which he signified that he did, whereupon Sir William let him know that at all events he had his permission to smoke. 1 «Cruise of the ‘ Fawn,”’ p. 50. 56 THE OCRUISH OF THE ‘CURAQGOA.’ After the Commodore had dismissed the performers and his guests, Yankee Sam paid a visit on board. He had a con- versation with the Commodore, in which he exaggerated, and seemed to romance, to such an extent, that it was impossible to know whether one ought to believe a single word he said. The next day I went ashore with some of the officers to see the Missionary’s collections and a double war-canoe, from seventy to eighty feet in length. Afterwards I visited the school and church, as well as a great public building used chiefly for public meetings, convoked and presided over by the chief. The church is built after the same fashion as the houses, except instead of being round it is elliptic, and has windows furnished with outside blinds. There are religious services in it twice a week, and the congrega- tion is seated on benches with frames-or desks to put their books on. There is a cascade in the island, called by the natives Pishi-tali (the Great Cascade), which is said to be more than 2,000 feet high. One of the officers, Lieutenant Meade, who went to see it, found it to be extremely striking and fine, but was of opinion that it did not reach one-half the height reported. The island of Tutuila, which seemed to me to be partly composed of basaltic strata, varies in width from two to five miles, by seventeen miles in length, and is said to be sixty miles in circumference. There are plenty of paths, but nothing resembling a road. ‘There are forty-three villages, of which the principal are Leone, with a safe and good TUTUILA. Csr. Tf anchorage in the usual trade winds, Aoloau, and Asu, the latter situate on the bay of Funga-sa, generally known to Europeans as Massacre Bay, on account of the sanguinary attack in 1787 by the natives on several officers and sailors of the expedition commanded by the brave and unfortunate La Perouse. The total population consists of 3,948 souls distributed thus: 1,293 men, 1,191 women, 765 boys, 699 girls. For many years this number has been stationary, the deaths equalling the births, being 1 in 393. There are 14 strangers in the island, one Frenchman, three Americans, one Irishman, and the rest English (7.e. the Missionary and his family). There is a difference of opinion respecting the salubrity of the chmate. According to my view, it cannot be considered kealthy ; for, in the first place, it seems to have a remarkable tendency to develop brain diseases, especially lunacy. Then again there is a disposition to a fever which develops elephantiasis in Europeans as well as natives ; scrofula, phthisis, a form of opthalmia, and intestinal diseases caused by worms, especially lumbrici, are also to be found. Influenza, diarrhoea, dysentery, frequently as- suming an epidemic character, as well as whooping-cough, which has appeared only recently. The Tutuilans are less intelligent, industrious, and_ skilful in whatever they undertake than the people of Niue, whose tapa cloths are certainly better finished. As for the rest 1 According to a tradition in the island, it was an act of reprisal for the death of a native, accidentally or otherwise killed on board the ‘ Astrolabe.’ 58 THE ORUISE OF THE ‘CURACGOA.’ they are inoffensive, naturally indolent, hating work in general, but setting a very high price on the least trifles they produce. The Missionary, who, by the way, is as much liked as any white man could be in this country, recom- mended me to pay a dollar for the slight service rendered me by a native for acting as my guide in one of my rambles. Silver is highly valued among them, as is the case among all the tribes in these seas. Next comes tobacco, which is in great request. Theft is the prevailing vice, and is unfortunately on the increase. In the course of twenty years there has been but one case of assassination, and the criminal suffered death. Prostitution seems to be unknown; but, on the other hand, sexual intercourse between the unmarried, and adultery, are common enough, if the white residents are to be believed; yet the men, it is said, are extremely jealous, and keep a sharp look-out upon their wives, especially when there are any ships in port; a state of marital vigilance which makes it somewhat difficult to understand how adultery can be a common practice.! Marriages take place by elopement, or according to native usages, or through the agency of the Missionary. Marriage according to local custom is distinguished by a singular, and, as measured by our ideas, grossly indelicate ceremony, which requires a woman to establish the fact of her virginity in public; when the proof is not satisfactory, , they are brutal enough to kill the woman.” It appears from ' See infra, p. 80, what Captain Erskine reports as to their manners. ? See Deuteronomy xxii. 20, 21, where the same penalty is imposed a similar want of proof. Or (Ys) TUTUILA. what the Missionary told me, that this singular usage is now so far modified that two or three aged women suffice as in- vestigators and witnesses in the case. Christianity was first introduced into this island in 1830 by Messrs. Barff and Williams. Now-a-days there are no more adherents to the old faith, but they are all Christians in some fashion or other. Mr. Powell puts the number of Roman Catholies at from 20 to 30,’ and that of the Mormons from 70 to 80; the rest of the population is Protestant. Among the latter there are 307 church members and 284 candidates for church membership. We have already mentioned the very large contribution in support of the ‘ pro- pagation of the gospel ;’ all which is undoubtedly evidence of a strong religious movement ; but whether it indicates a rich harvest of religious results, is a point which is fairly a matter of mere conjecture. The number of individuals who are said to be able to read amounts to 1,138. With respect to vegetable products I may mention Malay apples, papau apples, hog-plums, lemons, citrons, a small kind of Cape gooseberry, different sorts of small wild figs, several varieties of bananas, and plantains, two or three species of nutmegs never used, wild long peppers, ava, wild ginger, turmeric, thirty-two varieties of the bread-fruit tree, taro, yams, sweet cassava, the cocoanut tree, the banyan tree, cotton-plant, fan palm, rattan cane, 130 species of ferns, and ninety varieties of mosses. 1 LT hear they are rather gaining ground lately, owing partly to the attractive doctrine of remission of sins by confession to the priests, and partly because the converts to Romanism are not expected to pay any- thing. 60 THE CRUISE OF THE ‘CURAGOA, The mouse and pig! are said to be indigenous. ‘The cow, the goat, and horse have been imported. Some twenty species of birds have been recognized. As respects reptiles there are only lizards, geckoes,’ and the green turtle, which is found around the island, and whose eggs are collected in ereat abundance by the natives. There are no sharks, but a great abundance of fish of different species, all exceedingly good with scarce a single exception. But one exception we were informed there is in a little fish of a round shape, and only a few inches long, which is said to differ from all other known fish in having its fins and scales setting towards the head instead of towards the tail; so deadly and rapid is the action of its poison, that some one, either from ignorance of their venomous property, or doubts as to the reality of it, having eaten one or two of them, expired almost instantaneously afterwards. 1 Pigs abound, but they have the honour of being principally re- served for public festivals. As many as seventeen hundred have been killed to celebrate the opening of a chapel.—Erskine, p. 59. ? A genus of Saurian reptiles, having leaf-like expansions at their toes, which enable them to climb and adhere to smooth surfaces, such as walls, ceilings, &c. The name is supposed to have been taken from the peculiar sound it emits. UPOLU. 61 CHAPTER IV. UPOLU—SAMOAN GROUP—(continued). (Jury 5 to 10.) Apia Bay—Consul Williams, son of the Martyr of Eramanga—Mischief caused by a Hurricane—Resident Strangers—Baptisms on Board—Sunday at Apia —Catholic Bishop—Protestant Missionary—History of a Bible in the Ellice Islands—Visit of the Great Chief Malietoa—Inconsistent Criticisms— Natives and Whites — Manners and Customs—Ancient Crater — Cascade — Island Products. Tue ‘Curacoa’ weighed anchor on July 4 at 5 o’clock in the afternoon, and steamed out of the bay of Pango-Pango, the channel of which is not more than a third of a mile in width. As soon as the ship got out to sea a gentle breeze sprang up and enabled us to set sail. Towards sunset the mountains and coast of Tutuila assumed so beautiful an appearance that we could not turn our eyes away from them. During the night the breeze so slackened that, with all sail set, we did not make more than from three to four knots an hour, and yet the air was agreeably cool. Next day at dawn we got up steam in order to run along the northern coast of Upolu as far as the entrance into the port of Apia. The shore was exceedingly picturesque, with its bends and high lands gradually sloping towards the sea. The mountains, which at their highest point reach to 4,000 feet, were here and there lost in clouds.