OF THE

Australian Branch.

map; List of Botanical Specimens, described by Baron Sir
on Mueller. K.C.M.G., F.R.S., &c., and Professor R. Tate,
.L.S. ; also Catalogue of Geological Specimens, described

by H. Y. L. Brown, F.G.8., Govt. Geologist of
South Australia; with Geological sketch anit?
(iaias: of the Country passed over. / ©...

Adelaide: ONAN HEE
, GOVERNMENT PRINTER, NORTH-TERRACE.

L ti: ae \ 1891. —_ foe

JOURNAL

OF THE

CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

EXPLORING EXPEDITION, 1889,

7 UNDER COMMAND OF W. H. TIETKENS.

Despatched by the Central Australian Exploring and Prospecting
Association, Limited, under the auspices of the Royal
Geographical Society of Australasia, South
Australian Branch.

Together with map; List of Botanical Specimens, described by Baron Sir
Ferd. von Mueller. K.C.M.G., F.R.S., &c., and Professor R. Tate,
F.L.S.; also Catalogue of Geological Specimens, described
by H. Y. L. Brown, F.G.8., Govt. Geologist of
South Australia; with Geological sketch
of the Country passed over.

Adelaide:
C. E. BRISTOW, GOVERNMENT PRINTER, NORTH-TERRACE.

1891.

Journal of the Central Australian Exploring
and Prospecting Association’s Expedition,
1889, under command of William Henry
Tietkens.

eee

The journey of about 1,054 miles from Adelaide to Bond Springs
was of an uneventful character. The camels to be used upon the
expedition, belonging to Messrs. Chewings, were in readiness at the
Peake, which is the present terminus of the railway line from Ade-
laide, and as the greater portion of the stores were lying at Bond
Springs, having been left there by the first expedition when re-
ealled to Adelaide, the camels were not burdened with stores.
From the Finke to Bond Springs the weather was extremely hot,
the thermometer for several days recording 172° in the sun, and
upon one occasion 178°. The sand was so intensely hot that the
camels were unable to stand still during our short halt for midday
meals. ‘The heat, dust, and flies by day, and the ants by night,
during the last 100 miles of the journey, made life anything but
agreeable, and we were thankful when we sighted our temporary
home at Bond Springs. We could now fairly anticipate that the
hot season would be succeeded by cool weather, and that our
journey to the westward would be in the cool season. The stores
left at Bond Springs were found to be thrown together im a dis-
graceful state, and | was much grieved on examining the flour to
find our principal article of food for the next four months to be
both wevilled and maggotty. During our stay here several men
came in from the alluvial goldfields, about seventy miles to the
eastward. The largest nugget I saw weighed about d5dwts. These
diggers were not particularly sanguine of the success of the new
field. The water was fast drying up, and rations were at a ruinous
price. At the new township of Stuart there were four stores, and
a publichouse was in the course of erection.

At Alice Springs I had the pleasure of meeting with a veteran
explorer in the person of John Ross, aged 72 years, who is still
hale, active, and strong. Took a number of photographs of the
station and neighborhood during my stay here. Having completed
the re-packing of the stores, and all the preliminaries having been
arranged for a four months’ journey, on March 13th, J went down
to the Alice Springs telegraph station to forward dispatches and to
receive any letters or parcels that might have arrived by the mail
which reached there last night. Returned to Bond Springs, which
is twelve miles north of Alice Springs. I felt much disappointed

A

2 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

that a supply of seeds and dates promised by the Conservator of
Forests had not arrivea. A blunder appears to have been made by
the Railway Department in misdirecting the parcel. ‘The oppor-
tunity now afforded for planting date palms in Central Australia is
passed. The experiment would have been both valuable and inter-
esting, as I was anxious to have tested certain localities where
I knew good soil and permanent water existed. Date palms in
fruit at permanent watering places would prove an inestimable
blessing to the famished and wearied traveller in tropical Aus-
tralia; and nothing would have given me greater satisfaction than
to have been favored with the pioneer work of so philanthrophic
an undertaking.

Thursday, March 14th, 1889.—Bond Springs. The party, con-
sisting of myself, David Beetson, Fred. Warman, a black-tracker
(Billy, from the ranks of the native police at Alice Springs),
and a small native boy, left the Bond Springs station at 1 p.m.
Previous to starting we were all most hospitably entertained at
dinner by Mr. R. Taylor, the manager. During our two weeks’
stay this gentleman assisted me in every possible way that could
be prompted by a kindly nature and a lively interest ip the cause
of our work.

Our caravan consisted of twelve camels—four for riding, two
for carrying water, the remaining six carried loads (averaging
4ewt. each) of provisions estimated to last for nearly four months.
‘They had considerably improved in condition during the journey
from Crown Point, and marched off with their burdens with ease.
I had decided to follow the north slopes of the MacDonnell Range
westerly to Glen Helen station. Travelled three miles west to low,
well-grassed, stony hills; then, on a bearing of N. 45° W. for two
miles, I now made the tedious ascent of the hills and steered a
ourse west for three miles, which took me to the telegraph line.
From here I followed the foot of the main MacDonnell Range for
eight miles, on a bearing of S. 76° W., when the Painta Spring was
reached at dusk. Travelled seventeen miles through splendidly
grassed country, the timber consisting chiefly of bloodwood, mulga,
and various leguminose of stunted but healthy growth. Magpies
and crows were the only birds seen. Bar. 27°820in., ther. 102°
in the shade at 1 p.m.; the weather was cloudy and sultry, followed
by a smart thunderstorm at 4 p.m.

Friday, March 15th.—Camp No. 1, Painta Springs.—As soon
as daylight appeared I proceeded to examine the surroundings,
and found the Painta Spring to be a well about 12ft. deep, and
blasted out of solid rock at the foot of the ranges, which are of no
great elevation at this point. The water, which is of the most
excellent description, is raised by means of a windlass and bucket;
a line of troughs makes it a very complete and convenient watering
place. The overhanging rocks are shaded by beautiful fig trees,
which unfortunately were not in fruit; near the well, a handsome

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 3

specimen of the Zamia palm is growing, but whether indigenous or
not I cannot say. Upon my arrival at Alice Springs on the 28th
February, I placed my two aneroids beside the standard mercurial
barometer at the telegraph station, and Mr. McKay, the officer
in charge, kindly adjusted them to it and made hourly comparisons,
and up to the time of my leaving on March 12th they were quite
consistent; but the short journey here has so affected them that,
with the thermometer at 100° in the shade, they show a difference
of -420. I propose after this to give the readings of the most
consistent, besides keepinga daily record of the differences.
‘Weather cloudy, bar. 27:°620in., ther. 102° in the shade at 3 p.m.

Saturday, March 16th—Camp No. 1, Painta Springs. Bar.
27°729in., ther. 94°.—While at Bond Springs, Fred Warman was
bitten by some venomous insect upon the cheek; this swelled up and
became so inflamed that it seriously affected his eyesight. I there-
fore decided not to move the party for a few days, and resolved
upon examining the ranges in the vicinity for minerals, sketching
in details, and making myself acquainted with the country to the
westward as far as practicable. Upon these short journeys I took
the black tracker Billy, leaving Warman, Beetson, and the small boy
(Weei) at the main camp. Following up the range in a westerly
direction for seven miles I came to a pass, which appeared to be
much used by cattle. Continuing for two miles I entered upon a
saltbush plain, which appeared to be hemmed in on all sides by
hills of considerable elevation. A small gum creek traversed it in
a northerly direction, which, forcing itself through the range,
emptied itself upon the Burt Plain. Travelling south-westerly, in
four miles I had crossed this plain, and was face to face with ranges
that I found it difficult to travel over with my present lght
equipment, and which would be quite impassable for the heavily-
loaded camels of the caravan, After about three miles of severe
stony travelling, I reached the watershed, and a long leading
valley took me, in about four miles, to a gum onal flowing
southerly towards the Jay Creek. Here I turned the camels out
for the night. There was the most luxuriant feed imaginabie, and
a little water found in the sand was abundant for all requirements.
The afternoon and evening had been close, heavy thunder clouds
obscured the sky, and there was every indication of a thunderstorm.
The following morning broke bright and clear, every sign of rain
having vanished. I now took up a south-westerly course, and
travelled for six miles over low granite hills, showing basalt, gneiss,
and schistose slates. The ranges now became more rugged and
precipitous, and, finding it would be quite impossible to bring the
caravan this way, I turned north-westerly upon this bearing. I
travelled for nine miles over very rough country, the camels with
difficulty keeping their feet upon the steep slopes and stony uneven
surface. I then struck a small ti-tree creek, following this down
I was glad to find myself upon the Burt Plain and good travelling
ground,

4 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Wednesday, March 20th.—I returned to the main camp at
Painta Springs. Having now abandoned the idea of penetrating
the ranges to the southward, I started the following day (21st) to
examine the different gorges and inlets of the range, with the hope
of finding a watering-place west of the Painta. Travelled north-
westerly for two days without making any discoveries of water
that would be of any service. I was now forty miles west of my
mzin camp, so started to return. It appears evident that I shall
not find the travelling here by any means easy.

Saturday, March 23rd.—Camp No. 2, Painta Spring. Bar.
27°680in., ther. 58°—The morning broke bright and clear though
there are still some rain clouds tothe S.W. The evening was cold,
and I had to get up during the night to renew the fire: it is the
first time this season that we have cared to be near the fire at
night The packs having been all rearranged and weighed we
cleared away from the Painta Spring at 10°45, taking a N. 85° W.
course along the foot of the range. The travelling is simply
perfect, level as a bowling green, the weather delightfully cool, so
we kept steadily on till dusk when we camped, having travelled
eighteen miles. The largest camel that I have, and the one that
has caused so much delay and trouble ever since I left the Peake,
lay down several times during the day, and by continually break-
ing his nose rope, caused much loss of time. Kangaroos, wallabies,
crows, and crested pigeons seen today. ‘Travelled about seventeen
miles over level ground on the Burt Plain. Timber, principally
bloodwood and mulga, and also noticed a few native orange trees
(Capparis).

Sunday, March 24th—Camp No. 3, Burt Plain. Bar. 27°820in.,
ther. 63°.—Light S.E. wind. Camels not far distant, for their bells
are distinctly heard in the still morning air. Started away at 8°45,
upon a bearing of N. 86° W.; this course kept us close to the foot
of the range, at 1:15 turned direct west towards a dark hill, the
most westerly point visible. A remarkable feature in this day’s
journey was the great number of large ant hills. These structures
are built ly a small brown ant, and are of all sizes from the tiny
edifice just started to the largest size which are 4ft. high, and as
much in girth at the base, tapering towards the top. They are
of very irregular size and shape, and take the form of slender
spires, minarets, and domes, made of the soil from the immediate
neighborhood; they are consequently a bright brick red color, and
being very numerous give a singular appearance to the landscape.
The large ones are immovable, but the small to medium size
topple over or break in two when pushed. Heavy thunder clouds
passed over from the west in the afternoon, and one or two light
showers fell which made it much cooler. ‘Travelled twenty two
miles over plains of a red sandy light soil with good loamy soil in
places, on which I noticed several varieties of acacia and an oc-
casional orange tree. Camped at 5:15.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 5

Monday, March 25th.—Camp No. 4, Burt Plain. Bar. 27°835in.,
ther. 66° at sunrise.— At this point the highest peak of a detached
range bears N. 22° W, distant about two miles, so that the travel-
ling to-day will be in a valley between the main MacDonnell
Ranges which are here about 1,200ft. above the level of the plain,
and those which appear to be tending to the north-west. Started
from camp at 8°45, N. 83° W.; at three miles came across a
erabhole full of water from yesterday’s rain, at which I gave all
the camels an opportunity to drink which very few availed them-
selves of. ‘The grass and herbage here was most luxuriant. The
morning was fine, cool, and pleasant, but the afternoon close and
oppressive; at 3 p.m. so sharp a shower fell that all were glad to
get inside their jackets. Travelled nineteen miles, saw a few
kangaroos of the red variety. Camped at 5°30 p.m.

_ Tuesday, Murch 26th.—Camp No. 5. Bar. 27:900in., ther. °70
at 6 a.m.; cloudy, but cool all night —This camp is very prettily
situated at the entrance of a little glade, and the range being less
abrupt, grassy, and more sloping, gave it quite a picturesque
appearance. ‘he camels wandered away a considerable distance,
and while awaiting their arrival I made the discovery that the
quicksilver from an artificial horizon kad leaked out and was
scattered all over the boxes. Fortunately I had a spare one, and
though I collected all the quicksilver I could a great deal was lost.
The camels were brought back to their duty at 8°30, and, having
spent the night in wandering about in their hopples, they presented
a very sorry appearance. Started at 9°20, N. 80° W. At noon the
view to the westward was obstructed by ranges. At 2-45 our
course took us through a small gap in the hills, which, by the
way, have now lost their imposing and mountainous appearance,
though to the southward the heights are to be seen towering
above the nearer hills. Fifteen miles from last camp we travelled
west down a rough, rocky gorge, which gradually developed into
a gum creek that turned away tothe N.W. Camped at 6 30, closed
in by ranges on all sides. It was too dark to take notice of our new
surroundings, but they did not look very bright; the camels when
let go looked much disturbed. Noticed the bean tree growing
among the rocks upon the slopes of the hills. Travelled eighteen
miles. Trees and shrubs seen to-day were mulga, bean tree, ti-tree,
and grevillia.

Wednesday, March 27th.—Camp No. 6, West MacDonnell
Ranges. Bar. 27:800in., ther. 61° at dawn.—The camel bells were
so quickly out of hearing last night that it gave me some cause
for uneasiness. At midnight Fred. Warman and I started after
them. They were making away for water, and had I left them
till morning they would have had such an advance of us that the
start would have been much delayed. After much trouble and
stumbling about in the darkness they were ali collected and brought
back, but it was 3 o’clock before we retired to rest. They have

]

6 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

now been four days without water. At dawn they were all
collected again. It is evident water must be found for them soon,
or the consequences to some of them will be serious. Started Billy
away to examine a gorge about a mile or so to the S.E., while
Warman and I examined the one where the camp is situated. Billy
returned first, with the joyful intelligence that he had found a
sufficiency for present purposes. Saddled up, and travelled up a
gum creek to its source, and there found among the rocks a small
soakage in the sand. The camels were unloaded, and three or four
at a time taken up to the water. They drank greedily, returning
a second time for more; fortunately there was abundance. This.
was to me a valuable and most opportune discovery, and, though
not a valuable water for a stockholder, a traveller coming from the
eastward will always gladly avail himself of the rest and refresh-
ment that it offers. Botanical specimens and rock specimen No.
1 collected. Bar. 27°820in., ther. 102° at 3 p.m.

Thursday, March 28th.—Camp No.6. Bar. 27°820in., ther. 72°
at sunrise.—The morning broke cloudy and cool, a most agreeable
change to yesterday’s temperature, but later in the afternoon the
glass rose to 98°. I went to the top of one of the highest peaks
near the camp, and took angies to the most prominent features. A
large high range about twelve miles Billy tells me is Mount
Sonder, bearing 174°. Another very high point, which I should
take to be it, bears 281° 10’, distance about fifteen miles. Billy
has not been in the neighborhood since he was a boy and admits.
to a little uncertaimty about it. A very distant range with a
wedge-like gap between them bears 355° 40’. Ranges are all around,
but offer no very distinctive peculiarities. This water is situated
some little distance up the gorge or glen, and the approach to it is
somewhat obstructed by the boulders and stones in the bed of the
creek. Remained here all day for the benefit of the camels.
Botanical specimens collected. Bar. 27°80in., ther. 100° in the
shade at 3 p.m.

Friday, March 29th.—Camp No. 7. Bar 27-80in., ther. 72° at
10 am.—I walked up the gorge to the waterhole and found it
much diminished in volume, but there is no doubt plenty more in
the sand. The camels were absent without leave, and we did not
leave this bright little spot till 10 o’clock. After rounding the
point near the camp, I took up a course of N. 30° KE. for two and a
half miles, when we crossed the Gum Creek, at the head of which
our camp was situated. We were now clear of the ranges, and
turned N. 45° W. for nearly two miles, when we passed between
two little hills. Here I turned N. 60° W. four miles. We were
now in the old position again, 7.e., with a wall of ranges close to
us (south) on one side, and plains on our left of apparently
indefinite extent. At 1:30 we changed again to N. 75° W. for
three and a half miles; at 2°45, N. 80° W. for seven miles; at 5°20,
turned S. 70° W. one and a half miles, and at 6 o’clock camped

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. a

for the night. The country travelled over to-day was very similar
to that passed over all the way from the Painta Spring, though it
is not half so well grassed; indeed it may be said that the surface
of the ground is entirely covered with a herb known as buckbush.
While this is a valuable food plant for camels, Iam not aware that
it is so for either cattle or horses, in fact I think it is quite the
reverse. The ranges are abrupt, stony, and entirely destitute of
timber, excepting perhaps a few stunted pines, and an occasional
bean tree will be found at their base and lower slopes. ‘This tree
is that from which the natives procure fire by friction, and is
extremely light and tough, and should be valuable for many
purposes. The ranges appear to be falling off in height, and the
fact of being able to do a little southing leads me to believe that I
shall soon be able to get through them to the south. We had just.
got the camp fire strongly ablaze when we were visited by a heavy
thunder shower that wetted us through. It passed off in half an
hour, and the rest of the evening was pleasant though cloudy : this.
was to be regretted, for I was anxious to observe for latitude.
Travelled twenty miles on all courses. Trees, principally bean.
trees, grevillia and mulga. A few kangaroos of the red species.
and an emu were seen. Camped at 6 p.m. on an open sandy grass.
flat at foot of the range. Obtained specimen of the bean tree,
from which the natives make their shields and procure fire.

Saturday, March 30th.—Camp No. 8. Bar. 27-920in., ther. 72°
at sunrise.—Started at 8°25 on a bearing of 8. 70° W. and in 33%
miles struck a gum creek which apparently came from the south-
ward; where we first met with it the country had been burnt for
a considerable distance by the blacks. and many tracks of them
were noticed in the creek channel. We followed this creek in its
windings south for four miles; its course is through a country that
is very pleasing to the eye. the apparently well grassed hills (in
reality it is spinifex) the flats dotted with bloodwood which is.
almost an ornamental tree, the verdure all around give to the scene
a most pleasing aspect. This creek, I think, must be the Halleem
of Colonel Warburton (?). By midday we had followed it to its.
source ; here I found a nice little pool of water, which, however,
we did not avail ourselves of. I now turned on a course of 8. 54°
W., but the bearings here must be regarded at best as very
approximate to-day, for the hills I have now entered into are most
difficult to make any headway in; kept on this bearing for about two.
miles and then turned south for four miles, when we found our-
selves clear of the hills and upon a well grassed flat that appeared
to extend a considerable distance to the south; camped at 5-30.
The travelling has been slow owing to vexatious delays and the
difficulties and obstacles met with, and has been extremely hard
upon the camels. Travelled 14 miles. Sawa few fairly-sized gum
trees and a few acacias; on the creek, magpies, eaglehawks, jays.
and crows seen. Rock specimens, Nos. 4 and 5, collected. Bar.
27°60in., ther. 98° at 3 p.m.

8 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Sunday, March 31st.—Camp No. 9. Bar. 27°670 in., ther. 72°.
—Started at 8°40; continued south for two miles when we struck
a cattle pad with dray track on it; followed it up to the east for
one and a half miles; it then turned N. 85° K. for two miles;
here the track became so faint that we abandoned it and turned
8. 25° E. for six miles when, striking a gum creek, I turned east for
three miles, the creek splitting up into narrow channels. I turned
S. 40° E. for two miles, here I struck a very decided cattle track
upon which were a number of fresh tracks ; followed this for four
miles east; at 4°30 reached a clay-water channel with some very
nice waterholes in it which were now quite full; around this spot
mallee timber was observed for the first time upon this journey.
The principal, and I may say the only, timber seen. has been mulga
and bloodwood, the exceptions being bean trees and dwarf pines
and grevillia. Travelled 21 miles, which may be described as wide
open valleys well grassed and with occasional clumps of mulga ;
hills and ranges upon both sides. Camped early, 4°30, but not soon
enough for a heavy thunderstorm with rain broke overhead while
we were unloading; it looked so threatening that I had everything ~
put under the tarpaulins, the tent rigged, and everything made snug
for the night. Two emus were seen to-day. Botanical specimens —
collected.

Monday, April 1st—Camp No. 10. Bar. 27°720in., ther. 72°.
—Cloudy, close, and dull at daybreak, much rain, with thunder
and vivid lightnine during the night. A dog was heard barking
this morning, which probably belongs to some blacks’ camp ;
but to judge from the number of cattle and horse tracks seen last
evening, I think we cannot be far from the station. Owing to
there being but very poor feed for the camels they rambled away,
and we did not get away from this camp till 9°30. Started ona
bearing of 8. 75° and had not been travelling many minutes before
we saw two natives approaching; it appears they had heard the
camel bells during the night; these were soon joined by several
others, until we had quite a large escort to take us to the station,
which we reached in three miles. The manager, Mr. MacDonald,
was away, but the men showed us the best place to camp, which
was a few hundred yards down the creek. ‘The station is situated
upon a small gum creek that runs into the Davenport creek.
There is, thanks to last night’s rain, plenty of surface water in the
creek ; when these fail, the station is dependent for water upon a
native well soakage. Botanical specimens collected. The natives
here at this time number about 40—men, women, and children.

Tuesday, April 2nd.—Glen Helen Station. Bar. 27°760in., ther.
76°.—At 6 a.m., bright, fine, and clear. Started with Fred and
Billy to make the ascent of Mount Razorback; it lays N. 4° W.
from the station, distant about 4 miles. Leaving Fred at the foot
with the camels to do some prospecting in the neighbourhood,
while Billy and myself prepared for the ascent, we found it steep
and in many places precipitous; composed largely of quartzite ;

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 9

fragments of white quartz were loose upon the surface, and a few
quartz erystals were found. After an hour of severe climbing, the
summit was reached; the view was not so extensive as would be
supposed ; Tacos is certainly a misnomer, for there is a large
area of flat country upon the summit. A high range, that I am
told is Mount Zeil (of Giles), bears 285° 30’, distant about 4 miles;
it is several hundred feet higher than Mount Razorback. Mount
Sonder bears 111° 380’, distant about 8 or 9 miles. By aneroid
measurement Mount Razorback is 1,&381ft. above Glen Helen
station. While I was recording these observations, Billy was hard
at work building a small cairn to commemorate our visit. We
then commenced the descent, which was almost as puzzling to
me as the ascent. I was extremely glad to reach the bottom, and
once more to walk upon level ground. Rock specimen No. 8
collected.

Wednesday, April 3rd.—Glen Helen Station. Bar. 27-700in.,
ther. 66°.—Cloudy and cold during the night: light east wind this
morning. Preparing letter for the mail which leaves here on
Saturday. Repairing camel saddles.

Thursday, April 41h.—Glen Helen. Started from the camp
with Fred and Billy to make the ascent of Mount Sonder, travelled
easterly down the creek for three miles, and than turned a little
northerly towards the mountain. Directly we left the alluvial
flats of the creek, we entered upon low stony hills covered with
mulga scrub; as we neared the range, these became very dense,
until we arrived at its base, where there was a large eum creek
that appeared to take its rise at the western end of Mount Sonder,
which is called the Redbank Creek. This certainly is a most beauti-
ful and picturesque spot; the creek really is one of the sources of
the Finke, and is fringed on both banks with large and splendidly-
grown gums: it winds round the base of Mount ‘Sonder, and flows
southerly for four miles, when it joins the Davenport creek.
Leaving Fred in charge of the camels, Billy and I made the ascent
of the mountain; it wasa moderately cool day, but it took us three
hours climbing to reach its summit. Mount Sonder appears to
have three separate peaks, the most easterly one looks to be almost
inaccessible ; upon the most southerly one of the three I built a
small cairn of stones, and took the following bearings :—Mount
Razorback bears 292° 30’, Mount Zeil 314°: the most westerly
high point of a range, which is locally called ‘Haast’s BI uff, bears
286° a0 By aneroid measurement this point is 2,495it. above
Glen Helen station. The return journey was made in much better
time, but we got a very severe shaking, so rough indeed that the
jolting broke ne minute hand of my w atch ; He was after dark
an we reached Glen Helen station. Saw a couple of emus to

ay.
- Friday, Aprit 5th.—Bar. 27:715in., ther. 68°.—Was too much
done up to-day to do anything but camp duties. Worked out

10 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

my observations of yesterday. ‘Tested several mineral specimens
that were collected, without any results. Got the photographie
apparatus unpacked and ready.

Saturday, April 6th.—Glen Helen. Bar. 27-500in., ther. 74.—
Steady rain set in at daylight. Went up to the station hoping to
do some writing, but the rain drips through the thatched roof to
such an extent that it is almost as bad as being outside, While at
the Alice Springs I heard of the discovery of silver ores in this
neighborhood, and was anxious to see them; but I never saw any
one who had any specimens, nor could I find out who had made
the discovery. When I was at Mount Sonder I saw where a little
work had been done, but could find no trace in any specimens
that I brought from there. Mr. MacDonald, the manager, gave
me several specimens this morning, but not in any one of them
could | find traces of anything but iron.

Sunduy, April 7th.—Glen Helen. Bar. 27-810in., ther. 72°.—
Took several photographs of natives—men, women, and children.
Two women and one man were blind. Mr. MacDonald took
Beetson for a ride to Mount Sonder. Fine day, high easterly
wind. Mr. MacDonald sent letters away by a blackfellow, to
meet the mail at the Mission Station.

Monday, April 8th.—Glen Helen. Bar. 27:820in., ther. 62°.—
Not altogether satisfied with my short visit to Mount Sonder, I
decided to visit the spot again, and to spend a few days there pro-
specting. Started soon after midday, and travelled down the
Davenport creek for four or five miles, almost to its junction
with the Redbank. Then striking a little northerly across some
bald stony hills we reached the foot of Mount Sonder, where we
camped amidst the most charming and romantic mountain scenery.
As soon as the camels were unloaded, I went with Fred. to the
mine or silver workings. I found they had followed the underlay
of a reef of clay slate for 18ft., gomg through an ironstone crust
on the surface, under which were various colored clays, all charged
with iron. A gypsous earth seems also to have been met with.
Some of the small ironstone knolls in this neighborhood have
quite a purple appearance. Upon close inspection they are found
to be a decomposed shale stained on the surface with iron. Others
present quite a charred and blacked look, having all the appear-
ance of manganese, for which I at first took it. In describing
the rock formation of this part of the MacDonnell Range, I should
say that the main ranges are composed of sandstone and quartzite.
The lower hills at their foot, and towards the alluvial flats, through
which the creeks flow, are composed of clay slates and shale with
occasional hills of ironstone.

Tuesday, April 9th.—Camp No. 11. Bar. 27-975in., ther. 40°.
—All of us out prospecting.

Wednesday, April 10th.—Camp No. i1. Bar. 28-975in., ther.
46°.—Prospecting all day, and observing for latitude till midnight,

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 11

which I made 28° 35’. Billy brought in some beautiful specimens
of iridescent ores of iron; seen in the sunlight they are very
brilliant.

Wednesday, April 10th.—Camp No. 10, Mount Sonder. S. lati-
tude 23° 35’ 46”—Interviewing the most intelligent natives I ascer-
tained the native names of the principal local geographical features
to be :—Mount Sonder, Oorichipima; Mount Razorback, Oora-
tunda; Mount Giles, Um-bat-thera; Davenport Creek, Indianana ;
Haast’s Blutf Range, Nyurla; Mount Zeil, Willatrika; Mount
Crawford, Mareena; creek under Mount Sonder, Oorachilpilla.
Oora means fire, and it is somewhat singular that Mounts Sonder
and Razorback and the creek at the foot of Mount Sonder should
all commence with this word.

Thursday, April 11th.—Camp No. 11. Bar. 27-910in., ther.
55°.—I went up the creek this morning with the camera, and took
some photographs of this wild romantic spot. A walk of a little
over a mile took us nearly to the head of the gorge. Beautifully
clear water was running over the pebbly bed of the creek. As we
approached the gorge the hills upon each side formed into perpen-
dicular cliffs, and the creek channel became a chaotic mass of
boulders, around and under which the water found its way. A
little further, and the cliffs upon each side met, and all further
progress was stopped by a large deep pool of water, with per-
pendicular cliffs, several hundred feet high, upon either side; there
is a strange fissure in the wall, if I may so describe the mighty
cleft in the range; it is the opposite side of the pool, and, of
course, quite unapproachable, and it is down this cleft that the
water comes from its unknown source, fills the pool, which, always
overflowing, runs down the creek for a mile or more. There is a
strange wild beauty about this place, which tempts one to remain
and admire its lovely wonders. Several cranes were hovering about,
and these had brought to the bank a fish from the water, and were
discussing it when disturbed by our approach. It was much larger
than any I haye seen at these inland waters, and must have been
nearly 2lbs. in weight. Returning to camp, I went with Mr.
MacDonald six or seven miles in a south westerly direction to
examine the country there, but found no indication whatever of
mineral deposit.

Friday, April 12th.—Started away from this camp for Glen
Helen. A gumtree branded 4 marks the spot where we camped.
I kept further westward and under the main range. Left the
stony hills and porcupine grass in about two and a half miles, and
soon after crossing a gum creek had trial holes put down, intending
to pan off the stuff from the bottom. Camped at Glen Helen.

Saturday, April 13th.— Bar. 27°600in., ther. 60°.—Beetson and
Fred were sent down to the trial holes. Washed several dishes of
dirt without any results. Bar. 27-650, ther. 90° at 3 p.m.

Sunday, Aprol 14th.—Bar. 27°600in., ther. 70° at 6 a.m.—Sultry,

12 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

with high warm east wind,changing to north from midday. Bar.
27-525in., ther. 86° at 3 p.m.

Monday, April 15th.—Camp No. 10, Glen Helen Station. Bar.
27°600in., ther. 66°. —Cloudy with light north wind, heavy showers
of rain fell during the night and kept up till sunrise. I hoped to
have made a start to day but the uncertain weather and every-
thing being thoroughly wet, I decided to postpone it till to-mor-
row. I should have much liked to stay a fortnight prospecting
in this neighborhood, but I have received so little encourage-
ment that, perhaps, the interests of the Association are best served
by moving on; at any rate, it is with these views that I decide to
do so. Bar. 27°50in., ther. 80° at 3 p.m.

Tuesday, April 16th.—Camp No. 12. Bar. 27°580in., ther. 56°
at dawn.—Very heavy dew during the night, but a most lovely
morning. Our arrangements all completed, we packed up and
started. Mr. MacDonald kindly gave me all the fat of a bullock
that he killed last night. Many and various have been the atten-
tions that we have received from this kind-hearted gentleman during
our stay near his homestead, among others was a liberal supply of
fresh milk sent down to our camp every morning, besides which,
upon hearing that my watch was broken, he very generously lent
me his for the journey. It will be understood that a timekeeper
is a most important item iu the outfit of such a party; observa-
tion for position would be almost impossible without one. Started
away upon a bearing of S. $2° W., following the tracks of some
cattle that Mr. MacDonald was sending out to the Arumbara
Creek; kept upon this bearing for twelve miles and then turned
N. 60° W. for six miles. when we arrived at the cattle yards and
camped with Mr. MacDonald and the men. Travelled eighteen
miles, principally through mulga scrub. Bar. 27-625 in., ther. 78°
at 3 p.m.

Wednesday, April 17th.—Camp No. 18. | Bar. 27-746in , ther.
46°.—Mr. MacDonald decided to travel with us for the first day,
and he had with him a native boy who knew of a pass that would
take us through the wall-like range that lay to the southward, and
which looked as formidable as that which we followed for so many
days to the northward. Started away at 10 a.m. on a bearing of
N. 75° W. for four miles, this took us down the Arumbara Creek,
which at this point took a turn to the northward towards the
range that is called Haast’s Bluff, the outline of this range is most
striking, being a series of irregular peaks; the native name for it
is Nyurla, it is of the most singular form. I cannot see how it can
be identical with the Haast’s Bluff of Giles, for there is certainly
nothing of that kind to be seen. _I then turned upon a bearing of
S. 75° W. for three miles, this took us over low stony hills covered
with spinifex, and to take advantage of a favorable spot to get
through a line of hills that lay upon our course I turned south for
ten miles: we were again face to face with a wall-like range. I

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 13

decided to waste no time in searching for a pass so turned S. 70°
W., we were now in a stony valley with a bold bluff range of
over 1,000 feet immediately south of us. Mr. MacDonald’s black-
boy was now further in this direction than he had ever been before,
and did not like the idea of going any further. From him I learn
that this bluff is called by them Mareena, at its N.E. end is a spring
called Enditta, but as this is in an inaccessible spot I did not waste
time in visiting it. Camped at the foot of the bluff, travelled six
miles upon the last bearing. ‘Travelled fifteen miles rough, stony,
hilly ground, covered with spinifex the whole way, with trees of
bloodwood. mulga, and gum; magpies and crows seen this morn-
ing. Bar. 27°510in., ther. 82° at 3 p.m.

Thursday, April 18th —Camp No. 14, Mareena Creek. Bar.
27-560in., ther. 65° at sunrise.—I omitted to mention that a small
rock hole. containing a little water, was found near this camp. Mr.
MacDonald, with some difficulty, managed to get his horses up to
it. Mareena Bluff is quite inaccessible from this side, but I should
think a splendid view would be obtained trom the top. While the
camels were being brought up I ascended a lower line of hills that
lay to the northward, from here I observed Mount Sonder N. 87° E.,
distant about 35 miles, Mount Razorback N. 76° E., Mount Zeil is
hidden behind some hills close by. The rock formation of these hills
is sandstone and quartzite. Collected rock specimens 21 and 22,
started at 9, continued up the valley upon a bearing of S. 70° W.
for five miles. Seeing a small water-channel between my position
and the bluff, 1 went to examine it and soon found that water
would fluw to the southward, so that we were now on the southern
slope of the MacDonnell Ranges. and | hoped that nothing new
would impede my progress to the westward. Turned 8. 17° W.
for two miles to avoid some rough hills, and then followed down
the Gum Creek south for about 3 miles and camped. My position
now, it lam right, is on the Missionary Plain, and this is Rudall’s
Creek of Giles. The last three miles has been over very well grassed
country, open. with occasional clumps of mulga and colalya gums.
Several red kangaroos were observed, but Billy was not successful
with his rifle. ‘his has been a very short stage, but the stones had
crippled two of the best camels, so I camped early for their benefit.
Mr. MacDonald returned to Glen Helen at midday. Bar. 27-570in.,
ther. 85° at 3 p.m.

Friday, April 19th.—Camp No. 15, S. iat. 23° 41’ 25”. Bar.
27-600in., ther. 42° at sunrise.—By observation I found the lati-
tude of this camp to be 28° 41’ 58”. Started upon a bearing of S.
82° W. at 8°40, travelled over well grassed mulga flats tiil 11, when
we entered into porcupine sandhills rising towards low dark scrubby
hills, which I take to be the Gardiner Range of Giles; these lay
across our course and were met with at 1 p.m. The sandhill and
porcupine then gave way to mulga scrub, which, not being specially
dense, was a pleasant relief from the spinifex sandhills; this only

14 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

continued for five miles when we were again in sandhills with
spinifex, two little hills with pines on them being right on our
course. Camped at 5 p.m. in oak sandhills and spinifex, there was
not anything for the camels to eat. so at 7 p.m. they were tied up
for the night. Travelled twenty miles. A few kurrajong and
ironwood trees met with, no animals or birds seen. Bar. 27-675in.,
ther. 34° at 3 p.m.

Saturday, April 20th.—Camp No. 16. Bar. 27-680in., ther. 41°
at sunrise.—Latitude 23° 43’ 43”. The camels were let loose a
little before dawn, and they made such use of their time in travelling
that they have made it a lesson for me to keep a closer watch on
them in the future. Started at 9, contmued on yesterday’s bearing
for five miles when we reached the little hill seen yesterday. I
found it to be an isolated knoll of sandstone about 800ft. above
the level of the surrounding country, and hemmed in upon all sides
by spinifex sand hills; not a blade of grass anywhere. I left the
camels to make their way round its eastern base while Billy and
I made the ascent; its irregular surface is covered with dwarf
pines, and among the interstices of the rocks numerous rock
wallabies were seen. The view to the west and south-west was
one apparently of spimifex sandhills; to the N. and N.W. the
southern slopes of MacDonnell Range extended for many miles.
The country seemed so dry that I deemed it advisable to give the
camels a drink before starting for Glen Edith, and with that view I
turned N. 5° E. towards the main range where I did not anticipate
any difficulty in obtaining a sufficiency for one night. For five
miles we continued upon this bearing when we crossed a gum
creek which had a westerly course ; two miles from here it became
so stony that I sent Billy on ahead to look at the gorge that I had
been steering for, not thinking favorably of it from this spot. I
now turned §. 45° E. to get away from the stony slopes of the
range into the valley, through which I thought the gum creek
would flow; this we reached in four miles much to the relief of
ourselves and the camels, for the stony ground and the very dense
mulga scrub of the last few miles were tedious and tiring to the last
degree, there was very good feed for the camels but no water. I
think this must be Carmichael’s Creek of Giles, if so, the sandstone
hill seen this morning would be Mount Solitary. Just before dusk
Billy returned with the intelligence that a large rock hole in the
gorge that he visited had just gone dry. The trees met with to-day
were mulga, mallee, banksias, and various leguminosz and an
occasional kurrajong tree. Bar. 27°700in., ther. 88° at 3 p.m.
Camped at 5°30.

Sunday, April 21st.—Camp No. 17, Carmichael’s Creek. Bar.
27°750in, ther. 51°.—A keen easterly wind blowing, but mild
during the night ; heard a few crows this morning, I trust it may
be a sign of water being near, for I do not like the idea of doing
any more easting. The camels were let go a little before dawn and

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 15

spent the time more to their own advantage than yesterday.
Started at 8°35 on a general bearing of N. 66° E., but in these
dense scrubs and the continued turnings off to examine different
gorges for water it is impossible to follow an exact course, but I
may explain that I am following the slopes of the MacDonnell
Range easterly to find the gorge where this creek rises ; examined
many places during the day, in some water was found high up in
ledges of rocks quite unapproachable for camels, but which are of
course available for natives and birds; continued upon this bearing
for five miles and then turned east for three miles; from this point
I turned N. 10° W. for two miles to examine a favorable looking
spot, but without success. I now turned S. 60° E. for three miles
to get the camels off the stones; the mulga scrubs upon this course
were very dense, and caused incessant delays, and hoping to free
myself from them, I turned 8. 70° E. for one and a half miles and
again emerged upon the alluvial flats through which the creek
flows. Here we found abundance of feed for the camels near the
gum creek, upon which we camped. These mulga flats are inter-
sected by small gum creeks, and are park-like and very attractive
to the eye, and in a rainy season, with water everywhere, and
abundance of rich green herbage, which is withered and black
to-day, I can imagine a traveller dwelling with pleasure upon such
a charming spot, and almost pardon any vagaries of his pen in
describing its richness and beauty, which are, however, of a very
transient character. Bar. 27:580 in., ther. 72° at 5 p.m.

Monday, April 22nd.—Camp No. 18. Bar. 27-575in., ther. at
dawn 39°.—The valley between the MacDonnell Range and what
I take to be the Gardiner Range at this point cannot exceed nine
or ten miles, and a few miles further west it is still less. Started
up the creek at 8°15, N. 20° E., and very soon left our last night’s
beautiful surroundings, and plunged into a region of mulga scrub
and stones towards the foot of the main range again. This con-
tinued for two miles, thence N. 25° W. two miles up a stony
watercourse with scrub, stones, and spinifex everywhere, N. 40° W.
to a gorge which was a disappointment. From here turned S. 20°
W. one mile to a gum creek which seemed to emerge from the
range at a promising place. Turned N. 10° E. to enter the glen.
We had no sooner done so than two emus were observed stalking
down the glen, this looked hopeful, for if- water was accessible to
them it would be to us. Billy went on ahead on foot and soon
called out “ Water! all right!’ It was 11 a.m. when we struck the
water, and the seventh day since the camels had any, and they
drank greedily. This water does not lay any claim to permanence,
in fact it is only a tiny pool from last December rains, the ground
is very stony and the hills on either side are covered with spinifex.
A few bean trees and gums are the only timber, the only attrac-
tion the place has is the little pool of beautiful water. Variation
of compass, 2° 27’ KE. Bar. 27°260in., ther. 84° at 3 p.m.

16 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Tuesday, April 23rd—Camp No. 18, Glen Farewell. Bar.
27°290in., ther. 52°; S. latitude 23° 37’ 24”.—Bright fine morning.
The camels were not brought up till nearly mid-day. I suppose
they wandered away to be off the stones, let them have the rest of
the day to themselves. Went up the gorge to see if any more
waters existed, was away some hours and returned to camp not
having seen a drop, except where the camp is. The rock forma-
tion of this part of the MacDonnell Range is quartzite and sand-
stone. Collected rock specimens, 26, 28,29. Botanical specimens
were collected. With the hope that this will be the last appeal
that I shall make to the MacDonnell Range, I call this Glen Fare-
well. In ail probability it will not be visited again, but should any
future traveller pass by it will be recognised as being a wide glen
of easy access, about two miles from its entrance to its head; about
half way is a gum tree marked ,", on the N. side which is near the
waterhole. I had the casks filled up with this most beautiful
water and have all in readiness for the next water, whenever it
may happen to be. Weather fine. Bar. 27°310in., ther. 98° at 3

=m

: Wednesday, April 24th—Camp No. 19. Bar. 27:400in., ther.
51°.—Fine, still, clear, no dew. Watered the camels at mid-day,
and because they were wanted to drink, very few would do so.
Started at 2°25 intending only to be clear of the stones and scrub
so as to have a clear course for Glen Edith to-morrow. Upon
leaving the glen the creek splits into two small chanels; taking the
most westerly, I started upon a bearing of 8. 20° E. for five miles :
at this point the creek has forced its way between two low hills
that would not be readily seen above the surrounding scrubs of
mulga, from here I took up a bearing of 8. 55° W. for two miles,
when being clear of stones and scrub I camped. To the eastward
of Glen Farewell there seems to be a wide gap in the MacDonnell
Range, or it may be that the range turns to the northwards. On
the east side of this apparent gap are three or four bluffs or escarp-
ments, of which Mareena Bluff is the most easterly. Bar. 27°75éin.,
ther. 88° at 5°30.

Thursday, April 25th.—Camp No. 20. Bar. 27:775in., ther.
44° at 6 a.m.-—Startea at 8°20 on a bearing of 8. 80° W., to keep
midway between the MacDonnell and Gardiner Ranges, in one mile
struck a small gum creek flowing south, in four miles a much larger
one with a sandy bed and a well defined channel flowing westerly
—this must be Carmichael’s Creek; there is no doubt the source
of this creek is in the Gardiner Range, and those following
southerly from the MacDonnell Range flow into it. I should
have liked to follow this creek to its source, for I think good
water will be found there. In seven miles from our camp we
were face to face with spinifex and oak sandhills, so leaving the
valley of Carmichael’s Creek 1 took up a bearing of S. 67° W. for
Glen Edith, and in seven miles reached the foot of Mt. Solitary.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. ils

Collected rock specimen No. 31. Travelled over spinifex and oak
sandhills with broad valleys, in which were clumps of mulga and
kangaroo grass. Camped at 5 p.m., having found a fairly good
feeding patch for the camels. ‘Travelled twenty-one miles. Bar.
27°87din., ther. 75° at 5 p.m.

Friday, Ap: il 26th.—Camp No. 21; S. latitude 28° 47/17". Bar.
27-900in., ther. 61° at dawn.—Cloudy all night. A considerable
amount of moisture in the atmosphere this morning. Started at
9 a.m. on the same bearing as yesterday, 8. 67° W. for six miles,
continued in undulating oak and spinifex country, the sandhills.
then became closer and mallee and mulga took the place of the oak
timber. At this point a peaked hill, which I take to be Mount
Peculiar, bears N. 8° E. distant about thirty-five miles. Turned
S. 80° W. to avoid a sandstone ridge, kept on this bearing for
three miles and then turned on a bearing of §. 48° E., continued
along the foot of sandstone ridge for three miles, and then turned
N. 10° E. for one mile and camped on spinifex sandhills with
oaks. I think I am now in the neighborhood of Glen Edith, for
Mr. Gosse in his diary mentions a sandstone cliff such as I met.
with before turning on the last bearing. Bar. 27:750in., ther. 78°
at 6p.m. No birds or animals seen to-day.

Saturday, April 27th.—Camp No. 21; S. latitude 238° 48’ 25”.
Bar. 27°825in., ther. 62°.—I was awakened at dawn by the sound
of heavy thunder to the westward. Called all hands to get saddles
and boxes together for the rain was commencing; had everything
snug and breakfast over when the rain set in so steadily that I
decided to remain for the day and had the tent put up; it rained
steadily until midday. Fred Warman and Billy started off on foot
to look for Glen Edith and later in the day | went out on a camel
to try and find it; noticed a number of native tracks going south-
westerly, and shall follow them up to-morrow. Unfortunately, L
have not got Mr. Giles’ journal, otherwise I should find it easily
enough, for I feel sure I am not a great distance away from it.
Noticed a few swamp hawks hovering over the camp, but which
flew off to the eastward.

Sunday, April 28th.—Camp No. 22. Bar. 27:725in., ther. 62°
at dawn—Slight east wind, clear and fine. Started at 9 a.m. ona
bearing of S. 40° K. to intersect the black’s tracks seen yesterday.
After travelling one mile turned upon the tracks S. 15° W.; at two
miles sandstone hills, about which we rambled in endeavoring to
find the tracks, turned east as Billy had evidently lost the tracks
among the stones; in three miles reached the sandstone cliff
spoken of by Mr. Gosse in his diary, but I imagine this must be
quite its eastern extremity. A few specimens of a species of mulga
that is rarely met with were growing here, their straight, elegant,
and slender tapering stems twenty feet high, with light horizontal-
lying limbs, like a Norfolk Island pine, presenting a very beautiful
appearance; the singular oak and spinifex. undulations here set in

B

18 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

and continued for five miles. The rest of the day was spent in
working a passage through dense mulga scrub and porcupine sand-
hills, trending N. and 8. Camped at 5 p.m., having travelled
twenty-one miles. At this point the Gardiner Range is distant six
miles to the N.W., and it is quite evident that I have missed Glen
Edith and the probabilities are that we were close to it the night
we were overtaken by the rain. Bar. 27°575in., ther. 74° at 5
p-m. No birds or animals seen to-day.

Monday, April 29th.—Camp No. 23, Glen Edith. Bar. 27-580in.,
ther. 62° at dawn.—Started at 8, returning upon my tracks to the
point where the unusual mulga trees were seen, which is the
eastern extremity of the cliff spoken of by Mr. Gosse; kept along
the foot of this for six miles when Billy left us to reconnoitre, he
soon came back from the southwards telling us that he had found
it, but that there was not much water. Turning down a small
watercourse that ran to the southwards among low sandstone hills
we arrived at Glen Edith, but not until Billy had taken me right
up to the “Tarn” could I see any spot likely to hold water.
Everything here is in miniature—the hills, the creek, the Glen,
and I am sorry to say the water; at present it is eighteen inches
deep, five yards wide, and twenty yards long; and by the time
twelve camels have had one drink, not much will remain. The
weather is moderately cool and after the first drink they may
not come for more for a day or two, but it is evident more will soon
be required. The camels were unloaded at a spot where traces of
an old fireplace were observed, and where were several marked
trees. It took a long time to water the camels only two being able -
to water at one time, the waterhole or tarn being pinched up
between two large masses of rock, leaving only one end available
for watering at. Round about this very pretty little spot are a
number of white gum trees, the largest may be three feet in
diameter, while on the rocks are dwarf pines. I looked about for
a long time before I could find a tree that would be likely to be
marked by Mr. Gosse, for I knew that he used rather large
characters, but Fred found one which showed a long narrow strip
of exposed and blackened wood, by very carefully chipping upen
the new bark, which showed a faint line where the bark had been
taken off when the tree was first marked, and by exercising the
greatest care the overgrowth of wood and bark was removed upon
each side leaving the tree branded and fully exposed as upon the
day it was done. The tree marked by Mr. Giles, Glen Edith, with
date, was so grown over and rotted away that the overgrowth came
away in small fragments; the tree branded CARMICHAEL showed
the whole name with the exception of the two first and last letters.
Mr. Chewings’ tree marked in 1886 was, of course, quite complete,
no overgrowth worth mentioning having taken place. A small tree
marked by Mr. Gosse with a broad arrow was so overgrown that
only the shaft of the arrow remained. Of any seeds of plants that

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 19

may have been sown by former travellers in this fertile spot no
traces are to be found now, nor in the many places that I have
visited after former travellers have I ever found any traces or
evidence of the seeds having germinated. I can only reiterate my
regret that I had no seeds of trees or dates to experiment with
here. Camped at 2°20 p.m. Since noon the weather has been
sultry and oppressive with every indication of a change. Bar.
27°650in., ther. 89° at 3 p.m. An observation made this evening
gives me S. lat. 23° 49’ 36”.

Tuesday, April 30th.—Camp No. 28, Glen Edith. Bar.
27-700in., ther. 66°.—-Cloudy with light easterly wind. Writing
up journal, plotting, and engaged in many camp duties; took some
photographs in the afternoon. Many of the camels have very bad
backs, and others have to be attended to.

Wednesday, May 1st.—Bar. 27-660in., ther. 66°.—The sun came
out in good force at noon, placing the mercury up to 90° in the
shade. The camels drank a great deal, and seriously reduced the
water supply. Took several views with the camera.

Thursday, May 2nd.—Bar. 27-660in., ther. 74°.—Light N.E.
wind. The night was close and oppressive, and rain seemed in-
evitable, but the morning broke clear and warm; thermometer in
the dense shade of a pine-tree went up to 94°. I shall leave the
main camp here and start away to-morrow with Billy and three
fast camels to make a flying trip to the S.W. with the hope of
finding another place to bring the party to. I expect to be away
eight or nine days, and in that time [ hope that the camels which
have sore backs may be improved.

Friday, May 3rd.—Bar. 27-600in., ther. 64°.—A light shower
at 11 o'clock last night called us all out to cover up. It lasted
only a few minutes, and the morning broke bright, clear, and
cloudless, with a N.E. wind. Started with Billy and three fast
camels at 8°3U, taking ten days’ provisions. Travelled over oak
and spinifex sandhills, and at 5 p.m. reached the foot of Sandstone
Range, that is easily seen from Glen Edith; course, S. 68° W.,
distance twenty miles. The sandhills passed to-day ran nearly
east and west until we approached these hills, they then became
irregular and much higher, and continued right up to the foot of
the range, which present an abrupt escarpment towards the north.
All the afternoon heavy clouds had been accumulating, and at
sundown it was gloomy and threatening, so much so that I put up
my small tent that I fortunately brought with me. I was preparing
for bed when a few drops fell, and the night was as dark as pitch.
For an hour after this it was most oppress:vely close and still,
steady rain then set in. About midnight I sent Billy (the black-
tracker), who was my only companion, to bring in the saddles.
Returning in the darkness he stumbled against the tent prop, and
down it came. Billy was very prompt in replacing the prop, but
I was in an unenviable position for a little while. The small tent,

20 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

meant only for one, had now to cover Billy, myself, and the three
camel saddles. I woke at intervals to hear the rain pouring
steadily down.

Suturday, May 4th.—Bar. 27°625in., ther. 61°.—At daybreak I
was up, but not out, for it was pouring hard. Owig to the mishap
of Jast night the tent was leaking in several places. Billy started
a fire, and during a temporary lull we managed to get our break-
fast. but we were prisoners in the tent the whole day, owing to
the incessant rain.

Sunday, May 5th.—Bar. 27-660in., ther. 64°.—I deem myself
the most fortunate of travellers to have heard the sounds of
running water in such a country as this. At daylight’ this morning
water could be heard running from the hills and gorges, discharg-
ing streams of beautiful clear water into the thirsty sands. The
only reading that I have is Mr. Gosse’s diary, and if it rains much
longer I shall know it off by heart. Steady rain fell uninter-
ruptedly the whole day ; the camp could not have been pitched in
a better place for such an occasion; upon the lee side of a high
sandhill, abundance of firewood ten yards in front, and running
water in every direction.

Monday, May 6th.—Bar. 27-600in., ther. 57°.—Raining all last
night, and a close prisoner in the tent all this day from the same
cause ; the rain was driven before a gale of wind from the N.E.
last night, which made it intensely cold; fire beaten out by rain.

Tuesday, May 7th.—Bar. 27-600in., ther. 64°.—The rain could.
not have been so heavy and incessant last night, for at dawn this
morning, though it was still raiming, there were a few live embers
in the fire heap; these were soon worked into a brisk fire. The
rain ceased at 7 a. m., but then came a fog or mist, so dens2 that
nothing could be seen till 10. At noon I went out with the camels
for a short journey round the foot of the hills, half a mile from the
camp; came to a strong stream of water in a mulga channel;
followed it down one and a half miles, when it was quite lost in
the sandhills. I thought it strange, that after all this rain, the
ground was nowhere in the least soft, showing, I imagine, that
there must be a considerable depth of sand. Keeping along the
foot of the range in a N.W. direction I ascended a hill, hoping to
get a view to the south-west; but higher hills lay in that direc-
tion, which time would not allow me to visit; returned to camp by
a slightly different road at 6 p.m.

Wednesday, May 8th.—bar. 27°622in., ther. 59°.—Started away
from the camp, where I have so unexpectedly been kept a prisoner
for four days and five nights by incessant rain; took up a bearing
of N. 76° E. I am not very sure that this bearing was adhered
to, for Billy mounted upon a very fast camel went ahead, and as
both kuew exactly where they were going, I was more than em-
ployed in keeping up to them. Arrived at Glen Edith at 2°30.
Up till eleven o’clock we had been travelling in a dense fog, but

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. Pei

this cleared up, and the rest of the day was bright and fine.
I found upon my arrival that the waterhole has been quite
filled, though strange to say the creek had not run: all our
belongings were out on the rocks drying. No damage worth
mentioning had been caused by the wet, although the canvas tar-
paulin had been found to be next to useless; so my companions
sought shelter under the large overhanging rock at the back of the
waterhole, under which they were perfectly dry during the whole
of the rain.

Thursday, May 9th.—Bar. 27°650in., ther. 58°.—A very bright
clear morning; making preparations to start away to-morrow ; took
observations for latitude, variation, and time.

Friday, May 10th.—Camp No. 24, Bar. 27:550in , ther. 66°.—-
Light showers until 10 a.m.; weighed up and arranged packs:
camels did not turn up till late; started at 12°30 on a bearing
S. 84° W. Travelled over spinifex and oak sandhills till 5°30 ;
during the afternoon there was very heavy thunder with most vivid
lightning, and the sunset was very grand; the setting sun tinged
the huge thunder clouds with many shades of bronze and gold;
upper currents of air twisted these enormous volumes of cloud into
many fantastic and swiftly-changing forms and varying tints. We
were sitting down to our evening meal when the rain came down in
torrents, the supper was abandoned and all the tinware ina few
minutes was full of water; it lasted only half an hour but every-
thing was soaked; the ground and our blankets were soaked, and
the fire beaten out. ‘Travelled fifteen miles through desert oak,
mallee, and mulga.

Saturday, May 11th.—Camp No. 25. Bar. 27:780in., ther. 66°.
—A heavy rain squall turned me out at 2°30 this morning; dawn
broke at last threatening and gloomy ; the camels rambled away, and
when brought up, three of them were found to be suffering from
the effects of some poisonous plant, the symptons being a trembling
of the limbs, frothing at the mouth, falling down, and inability to
chew the cud; the usual remedies were applied, in two cases
effectually, so we saddled at 10; it soon became evident that the
third one would cause serious delay, so left it behind with a man to
bring it along as it was able. Travelled upon the same bearing as
yesterday, viz., S. 84° W. for two miles, when I decided to turn
towards the hills, where I had been overtaken by the rain; here I
knew there would be water, and hoped that a days rest would
recruit the camels. ‘Turned S. 35° W. towards a creek that was
running when I was there last week; reached this in five miles ;
camped at 1 p.m. The sick camel arrived later in the afternoon ;
put everything out to dry. It has been quite a summer’s day, the
ther. 89° in the shade. Fred went down to look at the camels at
dark, he found them still trembling and quite unable to stand. I
think the best remedy is to keep them moving. These hills have
been named Watson’s Range. Bar. 27°631 in., ther. 84° at 3 p.m.

22 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Sunday, May 12th.—Camp No. 26. Bar. 27°775 in., ther. 59°.
—-I was turned out by a smart shower at 3 o’clock this morning,
but it cleared away in an hour; camels were not brought up till 9,
the poisoned ones still looking very bad, having eaten nothing
during the night. Saddled them all up and started at 10°30
N. 45° W. for three and a half miles, then turned 8S. 60° W. one
mile up the creek, then turned south still following up the running
water for two miles; this brought us to the top of the range. I
now turned S. 64° W., and in five miles reached the southern slope
of the range. I now directed my course towards a singular looking
hill seen from the top of the Watson Range, and after travelling
for eight miles upon this bearing S. 83° W., I camped for the
night. The last three miles of the day’s travelling bemg over
well-grassed open country with occasional clumps of mulga.
Secured specimens of the poison plant. Bar. 27-809 in., ther. 70°
at 5 p.m.

Monday, May 13th.—Camp No. 27. Bar. 28°100in., ther. 44°,
cold south-east wind.—Started at 8°40. ‘This camp is situated at
the south-eastern end of a line of hills running towards the N.W.,
and presenting a line of cliffs to the southward. ‘lo examine a
remarkable part of this range I turned upon a bearing of N. 387°
W.., travelled over open spinifex sandhills for ten miles, then turned
northerly for half a mile when we came to a gum creek running
south-westerly ; I was in hopes of obtaining sufficient to fill my
kegs, but was very agreeably surprised to find a stream of beauti-
fully clear water coming from a glen in the hills. I have never
seen such magnificent bean trees as those growing on the banks of
this cieek, besides gum trees of majestic proportions luxuriating
in the richest brown loam imaginable. ‘lhere were grasses, shrubs,
and undergrowth of the most vigorous growth, low pine clad sand-
stone hills on either side, completing a landscape only too seldom
met with in Central Australia. We had travelled but a short
distance it is true, but it was impossible to pass this spot without
examining it in detail, besides my ailing camels would benefit by
a day on such magnificent feed; so at the entrance to the glen we
turned them out. ‘Travelled thirteen miles. Collected rock
specimens Nos. 38. 39, and 40. Bar. 280-00in., ther. 68° at 5 p.m.
Heard some curlews in the evening.

Tuesday, May 14th.—-Camp No. 27, Gill’s Creek: S. latitude 23°
49’ 25” EK. long. 130° 33’. Bar. 24-010, ther. 50°, S.E wind.— Last
night was too cloudy and overcast for observing ; the poisoned.
camel is no better, the animal cannot raise any cud, though re-
peatedly and continually trying to do so, and eats but very
sparingly; all the other functions appear to act well, quantities of
green frothy saliva occasionally escape from the nose and mouth ;
this is especially noticeable when the head is held down either to
drink or in the act of laying down. I shall let it rest here for two
days, I can then do no more. Went up the glen with Billy to

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 25

explore its beauties and wonders, walked for three miles up the
creek, for the last two miles we had walls of sandstone rock about
80 or 100 feet high on either side, the creek channel being about a
chain wide, running water the whole way. The creek in many
places formed into pools or rock ponds; these were two and three
chains in length and ten and twelve feet deep, and so shaded by
rocks on every side that they cannot be looked upon as otherwise
than permanent for caravan purposes. I have called this * Gill’s
Creek,” after Mr. Thos. Gill, of Glen Osmond, and hon. treasurer
to the S.A. branch of the Royal Geographical Society, and the
range from whence it takes its rise, the ‘‘ Cleland Hills,” after Dr.
W. L. Cleland, of Parkside. Making our way up the cliff we
found ourselves upon sandstone hills, and soon found another
ravine down which water was running into the main channel.
Returned to the camp well satisfied with my day’s ramble.

Wednesday, May 15th.— Bar. 28-010in., ther. 39°, S.E. wind,
cold, and heavy dew.—By observation I find this place to be in
lat. 23° 49’ 25”, KE. long. 130° 37’. Went up the east branch of the
creek ; found running water for over two miles, with perpendicular
walls upon either side. The channel is obstructed with enormous
boulders of rock, and does not form into deep pools like the one
we travelled up yesterday. Altogether there is nearly twelve miles
of running water in the different channels that empty themselves
into Gill’s Creek. The glen at the head of this creek I have
named ‘‘Glen Emily,” after my sister. I do not think this water
is always running, but it will continue to do so for some months to
come. Billy went down the creek with his rifle, and returned with
a fine kangaroo. This materially relieves our stock of meat, which
is not so well supplied as I should like it to be. I took several
landscape views of this interesting spot, and at the entrance to the
glen marked a gum tree 5% Rock specimens Nos. 41 to 47
collected.

Thursday, May 16th.—Camp No. 28. Bar. 28°055in., ther. 45°.
—TI would have much liked to stay another day or two amidst
such beautiful surroundings, but, as the camels had recruited and
were on the way to recovery. I decided to journey on to the west-
ward. During my stay here I had prospected in the creek
channel for minerals and put down several trial holes, but without
success. The rock formation is sandstone and quartzite, and,
though most diligent search was made, no trave of mineral-bearing
stone was discovered. Any future traveller that may approach this
spot will, if far enough to the south. observe a line of cliffs facing
the southward ; at their westerly end one more prominent than the
rest stands further to the south; at the foot of this will be found
Gill’s Creek. Started away at 9°45, steering S. 40° W. for about
one and a half miles to clear the hills, then taking up a due west
course we were soon in spinifex sandhills. The Cleland Hills could
be seen stretching away in’a W.N.W. direction. Between us and

24 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

them I could see what appeared to be a grass valley running parallel
with the hills. The little isolated hill that I saw from Watson’s
Range is three or four miles 8. 40° W. of Gill’s Creek, and from
this point is very plainly visible. At five miles we reached a
sandstone ridge running north and south, and an extensive view of
the country to the W. round to W.S.W. was obtained, and
appeared most unpromising—apparently nothing but a sandy waste,
by no means where good quarters or easy times might be expected.
Travelled over oak and spinifex sandhills till 5°30, and then
camped, surrounded by poison-bush on all sides. Watched the
camels the whole time they were loose, and tied them up for the
night. Travelled twenty miles. Bar. 28°290in., ther. 78° at 5 p.m.

Friduy, May 17th.—-Camp No. 29. Bar. 28°310in., ther. 41°.
Calm, fine, heavy dew.—Started at 8°40 N. 86° W., glad to get
away from this poison-infected spot. At five miles the Cleland
Hills were still to be seen to the northward: at six miles a low
sandstone formation was seen to the southward; at ten miles the
sandhills were not quite so formidable. We here entered a flat
piece of country, about two miles across; a few claypans and good
grass. A. surface covered with gypsous earth and spinifex then set
in, which made the travelling very heavy. Having crossed this we
were again in spinifex sandhills. For three or four miles these had
been swept by fire, and were perfectly bare. I camped in these
burnt sandhills, being so far fortunate to find a small patch with
feed on it that had escaped the fire; but the area was so small
that the camels were brought up at 8 p.m., and tied up for the
night. Travelled twenty-four miles. No animals or birds were seen
to-day.

saturday, May 18th.—Camp No. 30. Bar. 28°125in., ther. 60°.
—From a high sandhill near this camp took cireumferenter read-
ings to a low bluff at the west extremity of the Cleland Hills, 57°.
A range running in a N.W. direction, with isolated hills at their
S.E. extremity, bears 8°, distant about twenty-five miles. In the
centre of this range is a high point, at least 1,000ft., which I
have named ‘Mount Lyell Brown.” after the Government
Geologist, and the range I have called after Mr. A. T. Magarey,
the hon. secretary to thé South Australian branch of the Royal
Geographical Society. A high range. distant about forty miles, I
have named ‘‘Mount Rennie,” after Professor Rennie, of the Ade-
laide University, bears 320°. Started at 8°15 on a bearing of
N. 83° W. At nine miles we came upon a limestone formation,
upon which there was a little saltbush. The hungry camels
snatched greedily at these choice morsels as they passed along.
Had there been any extent of it I should have turned them out,
but we were soon in dense mulga and spinifex again. It will be
seen that the camels have been tied up every night since we left
Gill’s Creek. Whatever their capabilities may be of going without
water, it is quite certain they cannot do without food, and I hope

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. Dy5)

to find something for them to-morrow. Camped at 4°40, upon
what looked to be a good place for them; there was but very little
for them after all, and at dusk they were again brought up for
the night. Bar. 28-200in., ther. 76° at 5 p.m. Neither birds nor
animals seen to-day. ‘Travelled twenty-six miles.

Sunday, May 19th.—Camp No. 381; S. latitude 23° 52’ 36”. Bar.
28:180in., ther. 64°. Cloudy, dull, close—The appearance of the
camels this morning was pitiable, and it was evident that food
must be got for them to-day. Mount Rennie, bearing N. 4° W.,
distant about fifteen miles, looked too abrupt to expect to find
water at. Hills to the N.N.W. looked doubtful. Upon a bearing
of S. 28° E. a cluster of bare red rocks were observed, and to these
I directed the caravan, as being the most certain place of finding
what I require. These appeared some eight or nine miles away.
One of them presented a good slope of bare red rock, and after the
late heavy rains I made sure that I should get feed and water for
the suffering animals. After travelling over mulga flats, with
grass and spinifex aud dwarf mallee for nine miles, we arrived
there, spinifex and oaks growing right up to them. They appear
to be being fast covered up with sand; but no water was to be
seen. Billy seemed to think there was some; so, giving him a
camel, he started off to search, while I went on the rock to take
some bearings. Billy soon returned, telling us that he had found
a native well. Upon going to see it I found a small hole about
dit. deep, with spinifex growing all round it. There was not the
slightest clue to guide anyone to it; but the native’s unerring
instinct or wonderful keen sight directed him straight to it. It
was evident a quantity of work would have to be done before any
camels could be watered at it; but we set to work and opened it
out, boxed it up with wood and stones, and by nightfall three of the
worst looking camels had been watered. From the tops of these
rocks I took particular notice of a noble-looking bluff, that must
be over sixty miles distant. It bears N. 54° W. It has a most
inviting appearance, and I hope to find in its neighborhood a change
from the monotonous sandhill country that I have been in since
leaving the MacDonnell Ranges. Bar. 28-20in., ther. 86° at 5

p-m.

Monday, May 20th.—Camp 31, native well at Sandstone Rocks;
S, latitude 23°, 52’. 36”. Bar. 28 32(in., ther. 56°.—Cold south-east
wind. The well filled up to sixteen buckets during the night;
these were baled out into the tarpaulin, and more slowly drained in.
From the top of the rocks near the camp I observed a long high
range bearing S. 19° W., distant about sixty miles. Mount Rennie
bears N. 10° W.; it is a flat-topped hill, about 1,000ft. above the
plain, and has a low isolated hill quite close to its N.W. extremity,
while a series of low ridges lay to the eastward of it. The little
well made sufficient water to satisfy all the camels by taking them
up three at a time; the sandhills hereabouts are covered with

26 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

shrubs and herbage, such as they like, but there is not a blade of
grass anywhere around. Black’s fires were observed to the south-
ward ; these were so close that I thought they would haye called
upon us, but they kept away. Bar. 28°300in., ther. 65° at 5 p.m.

Tuesday, May 2\st.—Camp No. 32. Bar. 28-300in., ther. 50°.—
Light south-east wind. The camels rambled away during the night,
and we did not leave here till 11:15. ‘Travelled upon our tracks to
Camp No. 30, and then started upon a bearing of N. 28° W.
towards some low hills, where I hoped to form a depot; the coun-
try travelled over was of a firm sandy nature, with sandhills
running N. and S., about a quarter of a mile apart, all thickly
clothed with spinifex, occasional oaks, and a few white gum trees
were met with, but for the most part it was destitute of timber.
The tall bleached stalks of the spinifex waving in the wind, the
unbroken silence, and absence of animal life, all contribute to make
up a wild weird picture of desolation. ‘l'ravelled fifteen miles.
Bar. ¥8°500in., ther. 66° at 5 p.m.

Wednesday, May 22nd.—Camp No. 33. Bar. 28°525in., ther.
38°.—Started at 10 past § upon a bearing of N. 25° W. From this
camp Mount Rennie bears N. 18° E., distant about six miles; it
has a bare appearance, without any gullies or ravines down which
water would fall or accumulate. The first four miles the sandhills
were steeper and closer together ; these fell away, and the country
opened out into extensive fields of spinifex, not a particle of any
other vegetation; then again occasional forests of Casuarina were
met with, but spinifex was everywhere; at 11, turned N. 26° W.
for an appearent break or fault in the rock formation. Still travel-
ling over fields of spinifex ; these continued up to the foot of the
hills, which were reached at noon : here was a tiny rivulet, but not
a particle of feed of any kind for the camels. I now directed the
caravan along the foot of the hills for three miles in a north-west-
erly direction when we entered into a broad open valley, in which
was found a strong stream of water running to the southward ;
there was good feed for the camels, and while they were unloaded
I rode to the head of the valley to reconnoitre. In the middle
of this valley there is a singular mass of rock, around the base of
which is now running a stream of beautiful water; reaching the
head of the valley, 1 obtained an extensive view to the north of
spinifex sandhill country, with a few low hills in the distance; to
the N.\W. I obtained a good view of the high range that was first
sighted at the sandstone rocks and native well; from here it seems
to be the eastern end of a very high range that extends to the
westward. I am very sanguine of valuable and important discoveries
being made there, and my hopes are raised by visions of better
grassed and more hospitable country than that I have just passed
over. Itis possible that a watercourse from that range may flow
into Lake Amadeus, a problem which I hope to solve in a few days
time. The beautiful valley in which this camp is situated I named

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 27

Laura Vale, after the daughter of my companion, David Beetson.
Although there is now a mile or more of running water, I can only
express my regret that I cannot speak positively of its permanence.
There do not appear to be any large rockholes in the gorges, which
makes me feel doubtful of its lasting through the summer. Found
an emu’s nest with eight eggs, which were passably fresh. Marked
tree ;t9 at this camp. Bar. 28°300in, ther. 68° at 5 p. m.

Thursday, May 23rd.—Camp No. 33, Laura Vale. Bar. 28°300in.,
ther. 38° at sunrise.—The camels appeared to be doing well on the
herbs and shrubs A rest was necessary, as many of them are
suffering from sore backs, and these require careful treatment ;
I therefore propose to stay here until Saturday and examine the
hills, which indicate a metamorphic formation. Tested several
specimens collected, and found no indications of metals. Bar.
28-255in., ther. 64° at 3 p m.

Friday, May 24th—Laura Vale. Bar. 28°275in., ther. 38° at
sunrise.—Had emu egg fritters for breakfast to celebrate the
anniversary of the birth of Her Most Gracious Majesty. Went
up to the hills to collect further specimens and to determine the
height of the highest point, which I found to be 281 feet above
the plain. They are composed principally of a coarse red sand-
stone and quartzite, chiefly in large boulders piled in many curious
and fantastic shapes, among which there are chasms and ravines
which dip into the little creek that finds its way into the valley.
Our camp is situated a quarter of a mile from the gorge, on the
edge of the little clear stream which is only about a foot in width
and the same depth. ‘There are no evidences of it having ever
extended beyond its present narrow limits A few bloodwood trees,
some kangaroo grass, a richer soil for a few feet on either side,
together with a fresh appearance in the shrubs alone tell of the
presence of water. It has probably been running since May 3rd,
when we experienced the fall heavy of rain at Glen Edith; its
course is southerly and it is lost in the sandhills about two miles
distant. To the eye this isa very fertile valley with open forest
and quite parklike in appearance, the waving white spinifex appears
as long rich grass, the strangely shaped hills are covered with
dwarf pines, the dark foliage of which contrasts with the deep red
color of the rocks. Horses would have but little feed here, and
since leaving Gill’s Creek we have not seen an acre of grass land.
A quarter of a mile from the glen, and at the point of a limestone
rise on the creek channel, I have marked a tree 549. I hope the
next traveller passing along this way will find the water supply as
good asit isnow. From the highest point of the hill I took the
following bearings:—The range to which I am steering bears
296° 30’; Mount Rennie, 103° 30’; a range, abrupt at each end,
running east and west bears 340°, distant about forty miles;
another low range bears 307° 45’, distant twenty miles; an isolated
hill about forty miles distant, 336° 30’; Mount Lyell Brown, in

28 CENTRAL’ AUSTRALIAN

the Magarey Range bears 68° 30’, distant about forty miles. Beet-
son planted a few seeds of the date palm, and peach, melon in the
rich soil close to the running water at the camp, and as they will
be protected from the frost by the long kangaroo grass itis possible
they may survive. Mr. Ernest Giles, when at Glen Edith many
years ago planted several kinds of seeds, but no results of his labors
are to be seen there to-day. ‘The insect kingdom so largely repre-
sented in these regions must devour the seeds before they germi-
nate. I can account for the failures in no other way: but as his
were planted in October, when the young plants would have the
full force of a summer sun to contend with in their infancy, that
may be the reascn of their failure. Seeds planted after a strong
heavy rain and at a more seasonable time of the year may succeed,
but I have tried planting at all seasons and at all times with but
the same disappointing result, even if one germinates and flourishes

and cast its seed, these are greedily devoured by the myriads of

ants that infest the whole interior. Took several photographs
to-day. Rock specimens collected, Nos. 49 to 57. Bar. 28-210
in., ther. 68° at 5 p.m.

Saturday, May 25th.—Camp No. 34. Bar. 28°250in., ther. 48°
at sunrise.—Started at 10 past 9 on a bearing of N. 65° W., in
three miles we were clear of the hills and then entered upon ex-
tensive spinifex plains with dwarf acacias and occasional clumps
of mulga. Camped at 5°15 after travelling twenty-one miles; a
few mulga bushes around the camp were cut down for food for the
eamels. No sign of any animal life met with to-day. Bar.
28°500 in., ther. 66° at 5 p.m.

Sunday, May 26th.—Camp No. 35. Bar. 28°540in., ther. 52°.—
Strong east wind, cloudy. Hastened away from this wretched
camp at 8°20. buoyed up with the hope that the mountains now so
close to us may be the threshold of a more promising country.
Travelled for nine miles over the same flat firm spinifex country,
when we came to a sandhill. One mile from this we were on stony
country, where there were a few casuarina; turning northerly for
two miles reached the eastern extremity of the range, here there
was a small area covered with bloodwood trees and very beautiful
grass. I cannot tell how frequently and how eagerly the glasses
haye been directed towards this feature, each time with the hope
of detecting a dark line that would indicate the timber of a water-
course ; we have now arrived at the base of the bold, abrupt, and
rugged bluff, evidently over 1,000 feet above the plain, but as yet
no sign of a creek or even a drop of water. There is the most
luxuriant green-feed for the camels, upon which they would do very
well without. water for a day or two, but they required food and
rest quite as much as water, and as those requirements are to be
met with here I decided to turn them out, and while the unpacking
was being done I hurried on to reconnoitre. Travelled along the
foot of the range over very stony ground, to the south was a part

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 29

of the range and a broad valley which I could see was clothed with
spinifex. Ascendinga hill I obtained a view to the westward round
to south, but no sign of any watercourse to reward my eager gaze.
Returned to the camp after a two hours ramble with feelings of
bitter disappointment ; it was too late to attempt the ascent of the
main range. A iew small gullies I had crossed, in which I eagerly
searched for water, expecting to find running streams, were, with
the exception of two small pools, quite dry. This range was sighted
from camp 30 and from its height, apparent extent, and imposing
appearance, I naturally anticipated it would give birth to a series
of creeks that would run into Lake Amadeus. The question now
arises, which way shall I proceed? From my hurried view of the
horizon to the west there appeared to be no inducement to trayel
westward. From the summit of the range to-morrow I anticipate
avery extensive view, and shall be guided in a great measure by
what I then see. Where we are camped there are about twenty
acres of beautiful pasture land, and it seems as if we had been
guided to the only spot where any fertility exists. Fred. Warman
in his rambles amongst the rocks discovered a little stream running
for a few yards, from which we hope to fill our kegs, so that all
anxiety for water is now over. Distance travelled to-day about
twelve miles through dwarf mallee, banksias, and acacias from four
to six feet in height, with occasional clumps of mulga and a few
dwarf oaks. Bar. 28-410in., ther. 68° at 5 p.m.

Monday, May 27th—Camp No. 35. Bar. 28°420in., ther. 51°.
—The morning broke cloudy and threatening with a strong north-
easterly cold wind. At 9°20 a.m. started to make the ascent of the
mountain, taking Warman and Billy. Weei followed from choice,
and so did Warman’s little dog. Walking for a mile over the stony
slopes at the base of the range we came to an almost precipitous
ravine, which being the only place accessible, without walking
another mile or two along the base, I decided to try this The
rayine was a mass of enormous boulders that had fallen from the
cliffs many hundreds of feet above us; two or three monsters con-
taining some thousands of tons each had, from their excessive
weight, rolled far into the valley below. During our ascent pines
were met with, growing and apparently thriving amidst the
wreckage. Gazing up at the precipitous and almost overhanging
masses of rugged and broken cliffs, dozens of huge pieces seemed
ready at any moment to fall and overwhelm us. ‘I'wo little pools
of water were met with whilst ascending, but, if permanent, they
can be of no use to anything but birds. On reaching the top of
the ravine and looking down it appeared dangerously steep. From
here a more gentle gradient led us to the summit of the mountain,
a distance of about half a mile. Arriving at the highest point,
which is at its eastern extremity, a strange wild panorama of deso-
lation met our view: to the north round by west, and south-west,
the distant horizon was unrelieved by a hill or range of any kind

00 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

whatever, spinifex plains extended as far as the eye could reach.
The distant horizon was unbroken by an eminence of any kind,
to the north round by north-west spinifex plains extend in a con-
tinuous line to what might be taken as a true horizon. The western
end of a salt lake bore 261° 30’, while its eastern extremity bore
226° 30’, with low hills on its south shore. The lake does not
appear to be of any great width, and I cannot think it to be in
any way connected with Lake Amadeus. Mount Rennie bears
114° 30’, a high point in an important range south bears 96° 45’
(I much regret that this range did not lay nearer my course, for it
is one of the most important features that has been discovered).
The rock formation seen to-day appears to be a close, grained
granite, of a pink color, and quartzite. The bold abrupt cliff which
Mount Leisler presents to the east is reddened and rugged from
exposure to the elements for untold ages. Upon the summit and
in some places forming part of the cliff are enormous masses of
conglomerate fragments of quartz and round pebbles, all cemented
together apparently from pressure. Rock specimens, Nos. 58, 59,
and 60, as well as a collection of stones found in great numbers at
the base of the mountain were secured, from which the geologist
will probably be enabled to give us some interesting particulars.
I find the latitude of this point to be in 28° 20’ 09”, but owing to
the continued dull weather I have been unable to observe for varia-
tion of needle. This range I name the Kintore Range, after His
Excellency Lord Kintore, our new governor, as a lasting remem-
brance of the first year of his appointment as a colonial governor.
The highest point of the range I have named Mount Leisler,
in grateful remembrance of Mr. Louis Leisler, of Glasgow, who
so generously provided me with funds in my endeavors to open up
the country between Fowlers Bay and the Musgrave Ranges. The
height of Mount Leisler above the plain is 1,46 oft. A pile of stones
six feet high is built upon its highest and most easterly point, and
in the grass valley at its foot and at our camp a bloodwood tree is
marked ;% From the top of Mount Leisler the Magarey Range is
distinctly visible, and north of it is a conspicuous range bearing
83° 45’, which I have named the Henty Range, after Francis Henty,
Ksq., of Victoria, and the highest point of that range I have named
Mount Russell, after T. Russell, Esq., of Toorak, Victoria. A high
and very imposing range appears in the dim distance upon a bear-
ing of 41° 30’, the highest point of which I should say must be
fully 2,000ft., this I have called the Campbell Range, after the
Hon. Dr. Campbell, M.L.C., and chairman of the board of directors
of the association, and the very high point of that I name after the
Hon. Dr. J. A. Cockburn, M.P., Chief Secretary and Premier of
South Australia. A line of hills bearing N. 25° E. and distant
about twenty miles, I have named after Mr. Ecclestone Du Faur,
of Sydney, who for very many years has endeavored to unravel
the mystery attached to the last resting place of Dr. Leichardt;

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 31

the highest point in that range I have named after David Lindsay,
Esq., F.R.G.S., the Northern Territory explorer. The ascent of
Mount Leisler occupied over two hours, though both Warman and
Weei accomplished both the ascent and descent in far less time than
Idid. I notice again with surprise the presence of swamp hawks,
or bromley kites, about our camp. I have always been under the
impression that they only frequented well watered country, I have
certainly never met with them away from it. With feelings of
bitter disappointment I retraced my steps to the camp. M
wanderings through dreary and desolate regions to find the goal of
my long cherished hopes im a still more desolate waste was a sad
frustration that I had little anticipated. 1 omitted to mention an
important range of hills that was observed from the summit of
Mount Leisler, they bore 178° and were distant about fifteen
miles; these I named the Davenport Hills, after Sir Samuel Daven-
port, K C.M.G., &e., president of the South Australian Branch of
the Royal Geographical Society.

Tuesday, May 2kth—Camp No. 35, Kintore Range, foot of
Mount Leisler. Bar 28°330in., ther. 58°. Weather cloudy and
dull, with N.E. wind.—TI am loth to leave this range without
making a further examination to ascertain whether any permanent
water exists here. Instead of starting to-day as i intended, I sent
Warman and Weei in a southerly direction, whilst Billy and I
proceeded to the north. We travelled over the stony slopes of
Mount Leisler; for two miles these are covered with dense mulga
serub, which made our travelling tedious and slow, we then emerged
into an open valley with bloodwoods and a few white gums, this
raised my hopes for it appeared like a watercourse, which it was,
but perfectly dry. A few small grass patches of an acre or two
were now met with, surrounded with spinifex. The watercourse
where we left it appeared to be trending towards the lake, but it
is doubtful if it extends so far; the probabilities are that, when
its waters flow, they are lost in the sea of sand. Leaving the dry
creek we turned easterly to examine a high range, 1,2U0ft. above
the plain; we reached its western base in two miles, and travel-
led along its northen slopes for two miles; a few little runnels full
of stones leave its almost perpendicular sides, but there is no for-
mation whatever for holding water; both here and at Mount
Leisler the stones are shivered by some convulsion of nature,
apparently at no very remote period, into fragments that are now
to be found at their base, the water falling percolates through
these and is lost for ever, though, dlowinilese. it fulfils more im-
portant designs beneath the surface, which we cannot comprehend.
We returned to the camp at 4 p.m:, having ridden all day over
most dreary and desolate country. The natives visit this place ap-
parently to light their signal fires, the great height above the
surrounding country being particularly favorable for such opera-
tions—the remains of some are to be found right on the summit of

32 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Mount Leisler. The native population must be very small indeed,
as not a vestige of a camp has been seen anywhere. ‘The high
mountain visited to-day, which is northerly about four miles from
Mount Leisler, I named Mount Strickland, after Sir Edward
Strickland, the president of the New South Wales Branch of the
Royal Geographical Society of Australasia; it is 1,200ft. above
the surrounding plain. Warman was also unsuccessful in his
search for water. We may therefore conclude that this range is
absolutely waterless. Our kegs have been filled from a rain water-
hole on the south side of Mount Leisler, but the supply is not suffi-
cient for our requirements for a week at any time. Light rain
commenced to fall ou my return to camp; put the saddles under a
tarpaulin, for there is every indication of a wet night.

Wednesday, May 29th —Camp No. 35, Kintore Range, foot of
Mount Leisler.—A steady rain fell all night, and at daylight
heavy showers fell at intervals. As there is no appearance of the
weather clearing up; there is nothing to do but make everything
as snug as possible and wait till the rain ceases. Our tent accom-
modation is not of the best, but with props and stays we endeavor
to keep ourselves and provisions dry—though by no means suc-
cessful with regard to ourselves. At nightfall the cadences of
the wind, as alternately they pass gently and mournfully by the
mountain over us, and in other moods of fury and rage they
scream and roar around its rugged weather-beaten cliffs, do not
cheer us in our present situation ; and if we accept the position of
the huge boulders around its base as evidence of the fury of the
storms frequenting this spot, then the elements do not rage in vain :
but we are satisfied with the present surroundings, without wishing
for ocular demonstration of such phenomenal disturbances.

Thursday, May 380th.—Bar. 28-075in., ther. 58°. — Furious
squalls of wind and heavy rain beat against our slender shelter
nearly the whole night. The surroundings of the camp at day-
light were dismal—mud and puddles everywhere, the fire a black-
ened beaten-out heap of ash, and still raining. At last a fire was
made, and a pot of hot tea having been passed round which with
a warm at the fire cheered us up a little, although there is no pos-
possibility of getting away to day. The rain continued until 4 p.m.
Mount Leisler and the hills around have been enveloped in fog,
mist, and rain for two days. An estimate of the rainfall may be
gathered from the fact that a 2]b meat tin (Conrad’s), measuring
4in. diameter and 54in. deep, had caught 23in. of water. Notwith-
standing our well chosen position, the rain found its way amongst
our provisions, but altogether no special damage was done. The
camels have benefitec by the few days’ rest upon the very luxuriant
grass flat at this camp.

Friday, May 31st.—Camp No 36, sandhills at south end of low
hills. Bar. 28-210im., ther. 60°, bright, fine, and clear.—Every-
thing out drying this morning, and upon this and other accounts

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 33:

we did not get away until 11°45. The ground was very soft in
many places. Started on a bearing of S. 82° W., which in two
miles took us clear of the surrounding hills. At this point we
found a brisk little stream running, the result of the late rams; the
water continued to run for a quarter of a mile, and wag then lost
in the sands. From here we took up a bearing of S. 80° W. to-
wards the south point of low hills: travelled over spinifex plains
for six miles, then desert oaks and an occasional sandhill were
passed. Camped at 4:45 at the south end of stony hills, on a
sandhill where there was fairly good feed for the camels, having
come about nine miles from Mount Leisler. From this point
Mount Leisler and the Kintore Range form a noble and imposing
spectacle, but instead of offering rest and shelter to the weary
traveller through these dreary wastes, it must always be viewed as:
a beacon of warning, like the lighthouse at sea which warns the
mariner of points of danger. So the only practical result of my
visit to Mount Leisler is that this mountain will fulfil a useful
purpose by warning the future traveller to avoid its dry and
waterless surroundings. Even in times of heavy rains it would
be far better to try any of the lower hills or ranges in the locality.
Bar. 28°400in., ther. 64° at 5 p.m.

Saturday, June \st—Camp No. 37. Bar. 28°470in., ther. 44°.—
Morning fine and bright. The dew was so heavy last night that
everything was saturated. As the camels were at hand, we got
away at 8°15. Our waterkegs when I left Mount Leisler. were
not so full as they should have been, and before entering into the
sandhill country I was anxious to replenish them; so with this
view I started the caravan towards the line of low stony hills that
were about ten miles distant, and bearing N. 55° W. travelled over
spinifex country, and upon reaching the foot of the hills found a
little running stream that was the result of the rains that fell
while while we were at the Kintore Range. While the kegs were
being filled, I went to the top of the low range to take angles.
Observed a range of hills bearing N. 80° W., distant about.
thirty miles. These I named after the Minister of Education, &c.,
the Hon. J. H. Gordon, M.L.C. Another line of hills bearing N.
25° E., distant about twelve miles, I named after Mr. Charles
Winnecke, F.R.G.S.. of Adelaide. The Du Faur Hilis appear
about thirty miles away. I carefully and repeatedly scanned the
western horizon, but no distinctive features appeared above the
oak forests that extended in that direction. The kegs being
filled I started upon a bearing of S. 64 W. for the lake; travelled
through oak forest for eight miles, and reached the north shore.
At the point we struck the lake the eastern end was distinctly
visible, so that I think it can form no part of Lake Amadeus. The
view across the lake was much distorted by mirage. A range of
hills appeared upon its south shore, distant about thirty miles.
The lake seemed to extend indefinitely to the southwards upon

Cc

34 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

either side of this range, and the whole surface appeared to be
covered with water. The range of hills upon its south shore, and
which are distinctly seen from the Kintore range, 1 have named
after Mr. J. L. Bonython, a member of the Council of the South
Australian Branch of the Royal Geographical Society. As I gazed
on this apparently extensive lake, I could not but contemplate the
fact that our party were the first and only Europeans whose eyes
had ever beheld its silent shores. Was this Lake Amadeus? If
not, to where does it extend? The mirage of the wilderness is
apt to deceive the traveller, and although I have doubts of
the eastern boundary as it now appears, I feel certain that this
forms no part of Lake Amadeus. From Camp 380 (the native well
at Sandstone Hills) I looked repeatedly in a south-west direction
without being able to detect the peculiar appearance the horizon
has when a salt expanse intervenes, and which may be best
described as a ‘“ blink” (to adopt an Arctic explorer’s word) and
this would have been more particularly noticeable having a high
range on the horizon in that direction. The view of the lake,
though somewhat dreary and lifeless, formed nevertheless a pretty
landscape, or would be so to one who knew not that the water was
brine, and that it was a country abandoned by man and beast. I
was very glad indeed to notice several claypans full of water, and
where we struck the lake there was good saltbush, samphire, and
other salsole. Following westerly round its shores, and trying to
make a short cut, we got into the mud, and the floundering out was
a long process. It is by far the best way, when traversing such a
lake, to go round everything, no matter how far it looks. Spinifex
and dense oaks grow to the very edge of the lake. No track or
sign of any animal life. The lake seems a mass of channels,
islands, and peninsulas. Travelled till 4:45, and camped in a small
patch of saltbush ; the camels were let out for the night. Travelled
twenty-one miles on all courses, which, after striking the lake, were
N. 70° W., one mile; S. 60° W., two miles; N. 20° E., two miles;
N. 80° W., three miles; S. 80° W., one mile; N. 80° W., two
miles. Bar. 28°575in., ther. 56° at 5 p.m.

Sunday, June 2nd.—Camp No. 87. Bar. 28°580in., ther. 40°; S.
latitude 23° 22’14”; E. long. 128° 27’—This was a bright and lovely
morning, the bristling spinifex was glistening in the bright sunshine
with heavy dew drops, the strange silence of the solitude of the
desert is unbroken, not a note of a bird or even a sound to indicate
that any living thing exists here, nor any sign or trace to show
that animal life has ever visited this spot. ‘The lake at this point
is an enormous expanse of brown mud, save here and there some
sheets of water towards the centre. As there was very good salt-
bush feed here I decided to remain. Owing to the wet weather
the camels’ saddles require constant altering, and many of their
backs are now in a dreadful state. My position is now in the
province of Western Australia; my immediate movements will be

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 35

guided, of course, by the distance this lake extends to the west-
ward, but I do not think it goes much further in that direction,
whatever it may do to the southward. I have now soon to decide
whether it be advisable to continue westward, or to follow round
the lake, and so determine its outline to the southward. I see no
feature of interest to induce me to continue west unless prepared for
one hundred miles or more of oak forest, spinifex, and sandhills, for
I feel sure that no alteration will take place until the watershed
of the River Murchison is reached. As a geographer, I would
much like to continue on until the west coast is reached, and so
decide beyond all doubt, and for ever, the nature of the country,
but my instructions direct me to endeavor to discover minerals
and pastoral areas, and as neither may be hoped for in the west, it
is most probable that I shall complete the circuit of this lake and
then travel eastwards towards Lake Amadeus. Bar. 28°560in.,
thers (4 at 3 p.m.

Monday, June 3rd.—Camp No. 38; S. latitude 23° 23’138”. Bar.
28°515in., ther. 40° at sunrise—Very heavy dew, morning fine,
bright, and clear. Started at 8°35, N. 40° W. for two miles, then
turned N. 60° W., skirting some samphire swamps which is much
better travelling for the camels. In one mile upon this bearing the
spinifex sandhills that have hitherto run down to the edge of the
lake gave way, and extensive saltbush flats appeared, upon these
were numerous clay pans near which the ground was soft and boggy
from the recent rains, the grass and herbage was green and most
luxuriant; these flats were lightly timbered with mulga and prickly
acacia. ‘Continued on this bearing for five miles when spinifex
sandhills with oaks again set in. Not seeing anything of the lake
I turned S. 15° W., and in three miles met with samphire swamps,
continued among these for two miles when further progress was
entirely stopped, for we were in a labyrinth of salt swamps in which
the camels were several times bogged, and I was compelled to return
for three miles upon my tracks; then being a little clear of the
swamps I turned S. 80° W., this course took me over open spinifex
country with oaks, and in four miles camped in a clump of oak
timber; travelled fourteen miles, having lost much time among
the samphire swamps. Bar. 28°505in., ther. 68° at 5 p.m.

Tuesday, June 4th.—Camp No. 39,8. lat. 23° 26’ 47”, E. long.
128’ 12”. Bar. 28°480in., ther. 56°.—Started at 1:20 upon a
bearing of 8. 40° W., but I had only gone over one sandhill when
I observed that further progress in that direction was stopped by
a labyrinth of salt lagoons. Upon the higher ground, which might
be termed the islands, I noticed the vigorous growth of casuarina
or oak timber. Some little time was lost in endeavoring to cross
a salt arm, only a few yards across, and which seemed firm under
foot, but the moment the first two camels of the caravan were on
it, down they went in the blue mud underneath. After a lone
struggle they were got out, and I stood.away on a bearing of

36) _CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

N. 64° W., in about eight miles I reached a low stony rise, at the
foot of which a broad “sandy flat appeared, upon which I noticed
1 number of white gum trees growing. From the top of tais rise
I obtained an extensive view to the west and north-west. I
noticed a line of hills just on the eastern extremity of the Gordon
Range, which is about eight miles off. These hills were distant
about eighteen miles, their most southerly end bemg marked by
two distinct hills close together and higher than the rest. I have
uamed these the Dovers Hills, after my cousin, W. Dovers, Esq.,
of Bombala, New South Wales. Upon a bearing of N. 45° W.,
distant about twenty-eight miles, I noticed another range, which
I named after the Hon. J. H. Angas, M.L.C., one of the directors
of the association. Upon a bearing of 8. 82° W., I noticed a lne
of hills running north and south, the highest point being at their
northern end. I have decided to go no farther in that direction,
so prepare to turn upon a bearing that will take me to the south-
western shore of the lake. This line of hills, the most westerly
feature seen, I named the Baron Hills, after the Baron Sir Ferd.
von Mueller, K.C.M.G., F.R.S., President of the Victorian Branch
of the Royal Geographical Society, whose name is justly entitled
to stand forth conspicuously at the limit of my most western
travels; as the baron has been for 20 years the most steadfast
and energetic promoter of Central Western Australian exploration.
I much regret that one of his most ardent wishes, a travelling-
stock route from Central Australia to the North-West Coast, has,
in this journey, received another check; nothing would have been
more gratifying ;to me than to have been in a position to have
given proof of this being practicable. At 11:45 I turned upon
a bearing of S. 60° W. There is a large area of burnt ground here,
leading me to infer that a good water will be found in either in
the Gordon hills or else at the lake close by. I continued upon
this bearing for about three miles, and then turned south, for it is
now evident that the extreme western end of this salt depression
has been reached; we were occasionally turned off our course half
a mile by salt reaches. At 4°30 arrived at one, near which there
was a large cane-grass clay pan, which will last a month or more of
such weather as we now experience. Here there was a profusion
of splendid feed for the camels, and as one of them is ailing I
shall stay here to-morrow. From some remark of Billy’s, 1 think
he must have seen a spring in the early part of the day, and to-
morrow I propose to return and examine the spot. Oaks and
melaleuca were the only trees seen. Three ducks and eight cranes
were seen on the clay pan, these flew away towards the south-
west, but afterwards returned and hovered about the clay pan.
Bar. 28-560in., ther. 62° at 5 p.m. The night set in dark and
threatening, so had everything packed and under cover in case of
a downpour.

Wednesday, June 5th.—Camp No. 39, at Cane Grass Claypan.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 37

Bar. 28:600in., ther. 54°.—Cloudy. A few drops of rain fell last
night. Started with Billy to visit the position spoken of yester-
day, but saw no indication of a spring. There were some very
fresh-looking acacias at the spot, but no sign of water; these trees
had misled Billy. From here took up a westerly bearing to see
if any more swamps lay in that direction; travelled till noon over
heavy sandhills, with oaks and spinifex, that further travelling in
that direction with my objects was undesirable. The country to
the west appears to have formed so decidedly into spinifex sand-
hills, that it would be useless my entering into it unless prepared
for one hundred miles of such country. With feelings of regret,
IT now turned my steps south. My duty and instructions told me
to go no further west, and, however much in the interests «f geo-
graphical science I longed to proceed in that direction, there was
no inducement for me to risk the attempt. Returned to the camp
over the same country, which has recently been burnt by the
natives, who appear to visit this locality while water exists in the
clay-pans. Although a sharp lookout was kept, no natives were
seen. Reached the camp at 2 pm. Bar. 28°500in., ther. 64° at
5 p.m.

Lhursday, June 6th.—Camp No. 40. Bar. 28°580in., ther. 48°
at 6 a. m.—Weather fine and clear. Left this camp at 8°30 ona
bearing of 8. 34° W., for in my rambles yesterday I could still see
traces of a low-lying samphire swamp country. ‘Travelled over
oak and spinifex sandhills tor four miles and then turned S. 15° E.
towards a line of hills that were timbered in some places with
pines and in others by mulga scrub; these hills appeared to me to
be either being fast covered up with sand, or else were gradually
being laid bare of sand. I have named these after Mr. Turner, of
the Adelaide University. Upon this bearing gypsum earth mounds
were met with; oaks, ti-trees, &c., and little mallee were the only
trees seen at this spot; at three miles turned on a bearing of S.
60° E. towards a low stony isolated hill; travelled over some very
nicely-grassed mulga dats with many claypans in which was plenty
of water; reached the hill in four miles, from its summit a good
view was obtained, the most southerly end of the Angas Hills
about forty miles distant, on a bearing of N. 35° W.; the Gordon
range, N. 10° W., and the Baron range, 275», about fifty miles dis-
tant. Continued upon the same bearing for two miles, and then
turned S. 76° E.; in two miles we reached a pretty mulga flat with
rich grass and large claypans; there were a number of native camps
here the first seen since leaving Laura Vale, giving evidence of a
large native population occasionally visiting this locality. Travelled
till 4:40 p.m. over mulga flats well grassed and with occasionally
belts of scrub; two or three very large claypans were passed,
besides many smailer ones, all containing water. It was a great
relief to the camels being for one afternoon off the spinifex, and
they walked along grandly and at night were let loose upon splendid

38 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

feed, green herbage. I observed to day a great number of ant
tunnels made of the resinous substance at the root of the spinifex ;
they appear to be built for protection, either from fire or the fierce
heat of the summer sun, and are to be seen on the sandy surface
of the ground extending from one spinifex bush to another ; at the
end and in the root of the spinifex is the nest ; the longest tunnel
I have seen measured about twenty feet long ; upon picking up the
tunnel and, of course, thereby breaking it, the busy insects are
seen hurrying to and fro, carrying their eggs, seed, or material ;
even on piece of ground recently burnt, I have noticed that the
ant tunnels and nest remain uninjured. I have at last gained the
extreme western end of this salt lake formation, and the character
of the surrounding country is such that it leads me to think it will
never be again visited; but for the claypan water, it would have
taken more than double the time to accomplish its examination,
and then not without considerable risk. It is now beyond doubt
that no streams run into this lake from the west or north-west, and.
the inference is that in about one hundred miles or less to the west
the sandhill formation would gradually merge into the elevated
plateau of gravelly undulations. met with by Giles’s Expedition of
1874. I now turn my back on the west with feelings of disappoint-
ment, and as I have some interesting problems to solve to the east-
ward, the time allotted to me for being in the field will be pretty
well occupied in determining the outline of the lakes, although I
cannot but now think that Lake Amadeus will not cover anything
like the extent it is supposed to. The quondong tree was met with
to day; no animals or birds were seen. Bar. 28°575in., ther. 58°
at 5 p.m.

Friday June Tth.—Camp No. 41. Bar. 28°600in., ther. 36° at
sunrise; heavy dew; weather still cloudy.—Left camp at 3-45 a.m.
on a bearing of N. 5° KE. Travelled over well-grassed mulga hills ;
in three miles came to some old wurlies; several claypans and good
grass with saltbush were found at this point. I now turned on a
bearing of 8. 75° E. expecting to meet the south shore of the lake,
for from the appearance from the spot where we first struck the
lake it seemed to be almost at the Bonython. towards the western
end of which | have been steering. Soon after leaving the natives’
camp, we entered into a dense mulga scrub, which in three miles.
opened out into spinifex undulations with limestone. At mid-day,
from a low hill, 1 obtained a good view of the lake, its south shore,
to my great surprise, was five miles to the north of us. I imme-
diately changed my course to S. 20° E. tc reach the western
end of the Bonython Range. Arrived at these hills in about two:
and a half miles, but was unable to find any good camping place,
there being no water and very poor feed for the camels. Being
anxious to fix their position and height, also to take bearings, I
decided to turn out the camels, although we had only travelled
fourteen miles. So soon as the camels were unloaded I went with

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 39

Billy to the highest point, which, by aneroid measurement, I found
to be 800 feet above the lake. An extensive view was now ob-
tained, Mount Leisler bearing 50°, the east end of the lake 50° 30’,
the farthest point across the lake 17°, the west end of body of the
lake 341°, but several reaches or arms lay beyond low hills bearing
33° 30’, distant about 30 miles; the Gordon Hills 318°. From S.
20° E. to S. 40° W., low hills appeared from ten to fifteen miles dis-
tant, the intervening country being desert oak sandhills, showing
many places that have been burnt by the natives. The Daven-
port Hills bear from 69° 30’ to 79° which is their lowest point.
The rock formation of the Bonython Hills is a limestone and.
calcareous rock, they run for nearly five miles in an east and west
direction and are two miles through from north to south and appear
to be perfectly waterless; even the late heavy rains have been
absorbed, as no indications could be found of any of the little
gullies having had running water in them. Collected rock speci-
men 70, which shows formation of these hills. This morning
passed over a few miles of really splendid pastoral country, grass,
saltbush, and mulga, with claypans full of water. No birds or
animals seen to-day. Occasionally saw the smoke of fires of the
natives, but no sign of the natives themselves. Bar. 28°426in.,
ther. 58° at 5 p.m. I should have mentioned that this range is
easily seen from Mt. Leisler, both from that point and where I first
struck the north shore of the lake it has a most attractive appear-
ance.

Saturday, June 8th.—Camp No. 42, 8S. shore of Lake Macdonald.
Bar. 28°500in., 8. lat, 23° 35’ 52”, ther. 54°. Cloudy and still like
rain.—Much disappointed last night in fixing the position of the
hills: clouds were heavy all night and as this is anything but a
pleasant camp we hurried away at ten past eight on a bearing
N. 35° E. The south side of the lake is only five or six miles off,
and I shall camp there, for I do not wish to leave this important
feature without fixing its position. Travelled over stony slopes
coyered with mulga for two miles, then entered into a desert oak
and sandhill country which cut short the career of any little water
channels that leave the range. In six miles we reached the south
shore of the lake, here there was abundance of camel feed, and after
a short search I found aclaypan which would meet all our require-
ments for one day. Being a cloudy dull day, it was most favorable
for observing the outline of the lake. In a northerly direction, the
opposite shore was just visible. East and west the distance is.
about the same. On a bright day this would be very much altered
by the “‘ mirage of the desert sea,” and as with me, when on its
northern shore, the Bonython Hills appeared to be an island. the
lake extending far beyond the reach of vision east and west of the
hills, so making it appear very much larger. The day was occupied
by me in mapping and posting up. Several of the camels have very
bad backs, and their saddles required attention. Saw two swamp

40 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN
«

hawks and one crow; no animal life. The lake I estimate to be
about fifteen or eighteen miles east and west, and about twelve miles
from north to south ; of course this does not include the miles of
arms thrown out from its western side. The water in the lake
is apparently very shallow, no streams whatever run into it. Having
now satisfied myself of the insularity of this lake, I named it Lake
Macdonald, after Mr. A. C. Macdonald, the energetic secretary
of the Victorian branch of the Royal Geographical Society of
Australasia. Bar. 28°725in., ther. 62° at 5 p.m. (at level of bed of
lake).

Sunday, June 9th.—Camp No. 43. Bar 28°760in., ther. 46° (at
level of lake bed).—Left this camp at 8°45 a.m. to trace the lake
to its eastern limits, which, to judge from appearances, cannot
be far, but appearances here are rather delusive. ‘Taking up an
easterly course we travelled for four miles on its south shore, the
lake here being but a quarter of a mile in width. Here it abruptly
ended, and we were face to face with the high spinifex sandhills
and forests of well grown desert oaks. I had now travelled the
three sides of the lake, the south side having no samphire swamps
or marsh land on its boundary, whilst the eastern side appears to be
bounded by spinifex sandhills. Having arrived at the eastern
extremity of the lake I now determined to proceed in search of
Lake Amadeus, and altering my course 8. 82° E. I was also anxious
to determine the position of a range of hills which I had named
the Davenport Hills. The sandhills here which are high for-
tunately tended in an east and west direction, so that we were
able to keep in the valleys. At about nine miles, and from the
top of a high sandhill, Mount Leisler bore N. 26° E., and the
north end of the Davenport Hills N. 50° E. From this point the
country opened out into spinifex plains with an occasional sandhill,
the forests of desert oak fell away into occasional clumps, and
with the exception of a few stunted acacias and banksias the land-
scape was white with the long bleached straw stems of the spinifex.
This continued to the foot of the hills which we reacned in abeut
sixteen miles from our camp on the lake. Ascending a little hill I
obtained a view to the east and south, observing a line of low hills
to the eastward I continued on the same course to reach them.
Passed over the same open spinifex country, and camped at 4°40
p-m. amongst a few oaks and bloodwood trees. ‘There was but
scanty feed for the camels, and at 7 o’clock they were brought up
for the night. Saw the smoke of two fires to-day but no sign of
the natives. The Davenport Hills which I visited to-day are about
900ft. above the plain, and are a very prominent feature, being
about eight miles long from east to west. Rock specimen No. 71
collected from these hills. Estimated distance travelled, nineteen
miles. Bar. 28°525in., ther. 68° at 5 p.m.

Monday, June 10th.—Camp No. 44. Bar. 28°525in., ther. 62°
at sunrise.—A few smart showers fell during the night, and at

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 41

daybreak blankets and everything about the camp were saturated ;
saddled up and started at 8°30 a.m. From the top of a sandhill at
the camp I had obtained a good view of the hills to the eastward,
and could not form a very favorable opinion of them, and as they
were considerably out of the course I wished to take I decided to
leave them unyisited. Some low hills lay to the south, and towards
them I directed the caravan upon a bearing of 8. 5° HE. The rain
cleared off soon after we started, but it continued cloudy all day.
Passed over open spinifex plains dotted with a few oaks and dwarf
aeacias. In three miles heavy sandhills running east and west set
in, which puzzled some of the camels and retarded our progress.
In six miles from the last camp reached the west extremity of a
low sandstone ridge, where Billy found a small cleft in the rock,
and full of water. Here we replenished the kegs, which was all I
required, the hole was dft. deep and about 2ft. wide. Several
native camps were seen here, and the water must last these people
for a considerable time. In a cave close by were the idle or playful
drawings on a stone wall representing and signifying nothing in
particular. The vertebree of a few snakes were lying near the
black cinders of a fire, showing upon what the people at times look
for sustenance. Turning a little to the eastward to get through the
hills we resumed our journey, and in two miles noticed the fresh
tracks of three natives going to the westward, and soon after
noticed a wurlie made to shelter two men from the rains that pro-
bably fell when we were at Mount Leisler. At this point I
obtained a very distant view to the south and south-west, which
presented nothing whatever but high spinifex sandhills with an
occasional knoll of sandstone. Directing the caravan to one of
these which lay S. 15° E., and where I hoped we should obtain a
little feed for the camels for the night, we continued over very
heayy sandhills. In about thirteen miles I turned 8. 40° E. to
amore inviting looking ridge, which we reached in about sixteen
miles. This was a most dreary and inhospitable spot, huge sandhills
in confused and irregular masses tumbling right up to the foot of
the cliff which must soon be buried by them. Ascending the cliff
with Billy he pointed out to me a particular burnt patch, it was
not the only one by any means. there were dozens, but Billy seemed
convinced that water was there, and as it lay south I directed the
caravan thither ; in about nineteen miles we reached a mulga
hollow at the foot of, and on the west side of sandstone knolls.
Numbers of native wurlies were soon discovered, and a grassy
glade dotted over with mulgas. Little stone runnels, now dry,
intersected this pretty little piece of woodland. Billy soon found
a native well, and after that a rock waterhole. From the number
of wurlies and encampments, this is evidently a place of frequent
resort by the natives, none were here now, and at 4°40 p.m. we
turned the camels out upon pasture they love best. I find the well
is similar to the one found at Camp 31, and about five feet deep to

42 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN
\

the water; it is now filled up with sand and is only used, I imagine,
when the rock water has dried up, and as that has such a noble
catchment area of rock sloping into it, it must be a rare thing for
the blacks to have to appeal to the well, their requirements for
water being confined to what they actually drink, using none for
either washing or cooking. This reservoir must be viewed by them
as permanent. Rock specimens No. 72 collected from the rock
formation of banks south of the Davenport Hills. Bar. 28-110in.,
ther. 68° at 5 p.m.

Tuesday, June 11th.—Camp No. 44; S. latitude 23° 53’10”. Bar.
28°1450in. ther. 58° at sunrise. Dense fog this morning, which did
not lift until mid-day.—I deem the position of this spot of sufficient
importance to fix its position, and as it was too cloudy last night, I
have decided to stay here to day in the hope of a starlight night.
On a careful examination of the rock water, I find it is about 6ft.
deep. 10 yards long, and 5 yards broad, and is situated about 200
yards southerly from the well. Itis on the top of a stony rise, with
nothing to indicate its presence until you are at its brink, sand-
stone rock being all round. The peculiarity of these hills—ridges
I think would be the more descriptive word—is that they are
nearly surrounded and covered with mulga scrub. Several smaller
rock holes are in the vicinity, and at the foot of their western
slope the traveller will find some few hundred acres of excellent
grass land, good feed for horses or camels, which in this region 1s
almost as scarce as water. Several little channels and runnels have
only just stopped running, although it is now a fortnight or more
since the rain, showing, I imagine, that. although the upper rock
is split or broken up into confused and irregular masses, there lies
below an unbroken surface, which, dipping to the west and receiv-
ing the rainfall from the rocks overlying them, discharges the
water into the little creeks to the westward, where the sandhiils
immediately swallow it up. Directly around this locality are
small outcrops of white sandstone, the exposed surface of which
is reddened from decomposition, giving them almost a purple
appearance, which is heightened by contrast with the sombre
foliage of the mulga that grows round about them. The pine trees
usually found on sandstone banks are not found here. The smoke
of native fires were seen around, but no natives put in an ap-
pearance. These rocks and reservoirs I have named the ‘“‘ Warman
Rocks,”’ after one of my companions on this and other journeys in
the interior. Owing to the continued clouded weather I have been
unable to fix my position during the past two or three days, but
this morning took observations, and found my latitude to be 23°
53/10". Bar. 28-100in., ther. 78° at 5 p.m.

Wednesday, June 12th.—Camp No. 45. Bar. 28°12d5in., ther.
61° at sunrise. Sultry and cloudy, with appearance of rain.—
These banks of sandstone run north and south, Mount Leisler
bearing N. 10° W. Started at 8:10 a.m., on a bearing S. 46° E.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 43

In three miles sighted what I have always called Blood’s Range ;
this range was seen from Camp 31. It has a bold and imposing
outline from this point, with a gap or pass at its eastern end.
The western portion of the range, which forms one side of this
pass, is by far the highest peak. From this point we lost sight of
everything, and appeared to enter at once into a low-lying tract
of sandhill country, with oaks and spinifex. It was in vain I
ascended the highest sandhills that lay near our line of march, the
line of vision being intercepted in less than a mile. We passed
the whole day in forests of oak and spinifex. The country
seemed to be swept of every kind of bush; the white stalks of
the spinifex contrasting strangely with the tall straight dark
stems and foliage of the oaks. The sandhills were low and some-
what distant from each other, and the ground being tolerably
level, we made about twenty-one miles. Campedat5 p.m. without
feed or water for the camels, so they were tied up all night. No
animals or birds of any description were seen to-day, our route
being through the centre of Lake Amadeus, as now shown on the
maps. Bar. 28°450in., ther. 72° at 5 p.m.

Thursday, June 13th.—Camp No. 46. Bar. 28°580in., ther. 58°
at sunrise.—Last night was threatening and cloudy, witha shifting
wind. A few showers fell—just sufficient to make us turn out and
cover up our belongings. Started away on a bearing of S. 46° E.,
the sandhills running east and west, with wide valleys between
them. In nine miles turned 8S. 30° E. Here the sandhills became
higher and more confused, with poison bush everywhere. At
sixteen miles from last camp crossed some small samphire swamps;
at seventeen miles passed a saltpan on the east side of which were
some claypans with water in them. Wishing to make a good day’s
stage, these were passed. From the appearance of the country I
anticipated meeting with more, and that probably I was approach-
ing the western extremity of Lake Amadeus. At this point the
sandhill formation ceased, and flat sandy country with grass, salt-
bush, and mulga were passed over. Here there were quondong,
prickly acacia, and quite a patch of good country for stock, but
apparently quite waterless. At 4°30 camped, having travelled
twenty-one miles. Uponsuch good country I deemed it safe to let
the camels go for the night. I was anxious to obtain an observa-
tion for latitude, but the night turned out cloudy, as, indeed, it
had been all day. Bar. 28°650in., ther. 62°.

Friday, June 14th.—Camp No. 47. Bar. 28°600in., ther. 52°.
Light southerly wind, light clouds.—My riding camel, “‘ Tooroo,”
made a mistake last night and wandered away by himself. This
caused considerable delay, and I did not start from this very
pleasant camp until 10 o’clock. Taking up a bearing of S. 15° E.,
we continued over well-grassed saltbush and mulga flats for two
miles, when we again entered into spinifex and oak sandhills
entirely destitute of any other vegetation. It is over such tracts

44 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

of country as this that the traveller must push his way, for there
is absolutely nothing whatever that animals can eat. Continued
on this course for eight miles, and was distant from what I take to
be Blood’s Range, of Giles, about ten miles, and it was quite
evident that no lake, or arm of one, lay between us. At this point
I turned 8. 50° E. The same country continued on this bearing,
but the sandhills were farther apart and running regularly east
and west, with wide valleys between them, in which were occa-
sional clumps of dense mulga scrub. Camped at 5 p.m., having
travelled twenty miles. There was but little feed here for the
camels, so at dusk they were tied up for the night. The night set
in dark with heavy clouds banking up from the west. and, most
strange for this time of the year. heavy thunder and very vivid
lightning. Had the saddles stacked and under the tarpaulins.
No timber being at hand, I could not put up my tent. Bar.
28°3251in., ther. 61° at 5 p.m.

Saturday, June 15th.—Camp No. 48; S. latitude 24° 33’ 21”,
var. 0° 26’. Bar. 28°400in., ther. 52°.—Heavy rain commenced
at 8 o'clock last night, and continued with great violence till 3
a.m. this morning, violent squalls of wind and rain being followed
at intervals by steady soaking rain. My companions managed to
secrete themselves among the saddles under the tarpaulin, but,
this being so thin and worn, it offered but indifferent shelter; the
fire was beaten out, and I passed a very wretched night. At 3
a.m. 1 rolled myself up in a blanket and slept till dawn, when I
let the camels go for an hour or two. We were all wet through ;
but, a fire being lit and a pot of tea passed round, we were soon in
better spirits. An idea of this rainfall may be gathered from the
fact that a 2-lb. meat tin was quite two-thirds full this morning,
and a tin dish more than half full. At 9°15 we started away on
a bearing of 90°. At two and a half miles turned 8. 75° KH. to
examine a peculiar and abrupt outcrop of rock. ‘Travelling over
spinifex and oak sandhills with a bald stony hill to the north of us.
Continued on this course for two miles, and then turned N. 70° E.
for the south side of the rock, which we reached in seven and a
half miles from our last camp. Billy went on foot to examine the
north side, while I continued on the south side. In a quarter
of a mile reached some old native encampments, where there
was a small stream of water running for a few yards into the
sands. These, of course, were the result of last night’s rainfall-
I decided to stay, for the cameis required rest and all our belong.
ings wanted drying. There is fairly good feed here for camels, and
some rough grass for horses ; but the area of such is small. Billy
returned from his ramble round the rock, and reports having found
a rock reservoir of considerable dimensions. Later in the day he
managed to bag a brace of rock wallaby. Any such small game
help to eke out our now slender supply of meat. Bar. 28°350in.,
ther. 54° at 5 p.m.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 45

Sunday, June 16th.—Camp No. 48, Sandstone and Pine Rock.
Bar. 28°500in., ther. 32° at sunrise.—Everything was white with
frost this morning. Employed during the day drying plants and
clothes, taking observations for latitude, variation, and time. From
this camp there is an extensive view of hills and ranges to the
south and south-west. The lofty peaks of Blood’s Range in the
clear morning air assume a variety of tints, while the numerous
ravines and gorges suggest innumerable little streams of water
running their limited extent into the sandhills of oak and spinifex.
The peaks of Blood’s Range have such an imposing appearance
that I propose to visit them to-morrow.

Monday, June 17th.—Camp No. 48. Bar. 28°500in., ther. 33°.
—I found my work so much in arrears that I decided to remain
here to-day. In the afternoon Billy, Weei, and myself went to
examine the rock and the reservoir. The rock is about eighty or
one hundred feet high and perhaps half a mile long from E. to W.,
and is composed of sandstone and quartzite and covered with
well-grown pine trees; at its eastern end I noticed a few white
gums and bloodwood trees growing, while the south side is abrupt
showing many little bays and cliffs of brown rugged rock, its
northern side slopes more gradually and spinifex grows nearly to
the top. Upon its north-eastern slope is the water hole; this I
find to be in solid rock, it is quite eight feet deep, ten yards long,
and one yard wide, there are other pockets containing water in the
neighborhood but they are very small. This water is so sheltered
from the sun that I should imagine the dusky denizens of these
regions would look upon it as a permanent water, but a team of
really thirsty camels would make serious inroads with its contents.
It would be difficult to get stock up to it,and the surest and safest
way would be to carry it down to them. I noticed here many of
the ant tunnels upon the ground, and secured several pieces of this
tunnel work and a few of the builders; put them all into a tin box
with the hope that they may prove of interest to any who value
such specimens. I can only regret the loss of the jar ot methylated
spirits at Bond Springs, for many specimens of the insect kingdom
could have been preserved during this journey. ‘There is a large
quantity of poison bush around. the rock, but the camels, taught,
I suppose, by experience, do not touch it. Bar. 28°360in., ther.
75° at 5 p.m. R

Tuesday, June 18:h.—Camp No. 49. Bar. 28°360in., ther. 36°.
—Fine, bright, and clear. The camels separated into several mobs
during the night and were not brought up till late. The water at.
this camp ceased to run during the night: had a longer stay been
necessary I should have had to move round to the reservoir on the
other side of the hill. Started away at 10°30 on a bearing of S.
68° W., for the first two miles travelled over mulga flats where
there was a little rough grass growing, nor was there any spinifex,
but this very soon set in. Travelled over flat sandy country with

46 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

occasional sandhills which continued until 5 o’clock, when I
camped, the stoppages and delays were so many owing to the
perversity of one camel saddle that only twelve miles were
travelled. Bloods Range appears to be four or five miles distant,
the highest point of sane I have named Mt. Harris, after Mr.
Charles Hope Harris of the Survey Department; a high point to
the east of Mt. Harris, and only separated from it by a deep ravine,
I have named Mt. Carruthers, after Mr. Carruthers of the Trigono-
metrical Survey Department, who is now engaged in an important
survey of the Musgrave Ranges and whose labors we hope will
soon extend to this point, and enabie the intervening country to
be accurately laid down. As seen from the sandstone rocks and
native well at camp No. 30, a distance of seventy miles, Mt. Harris
and Mt. Carruthers seem to be quite separate, having a narrow pass
between them—and perhaps it would appear so if seen from the
south. Bar. 28-280in., ther. 64°.

Wednesday, June 19¢h.—Camp No. 50; S. latitude 24° 37’ 36”.
Bar. 28°350in., ther. 36°.—-Bright, fine, cool. Started away from
this camp at 8°30. The camels were tied up all night, for there
was nothing for them to eat, but I hope to get good quarters for
them at Blood’s Range, although from this point there does not
seem to be any watercourse on this side of it: the sandhills around :
here for a considerable distance have been burnt by the blacks,
leading me to hope that some water discoveries may be made
to-day. Travelled upon a bearing of S. 68° E. and in four miles
reached the foot of the range. I was again doomed to meet with
disappointment for no sign of water was to be seen anywhere,
nothing worthy of the name of a water channel left the range, nor
were there any places where water would lodge, the country at the
foot of the range was nothing but spinifex. andl stones ; having
brought the camels close under the range it was a difficult matter
to find a small space clear of stones for them to lay down upon
while I made the ascent; this being at last found, Fred, Billy, and
I made the ascent, leaving Beetson and Weei with the camels. It
took us an hour to reach the summit, but the view from there well
repaid our exertions. I recognised the familiar outline of Mt. Olga
in the dim distance, bearing 121° 50’, it must be at least seventy
miles away; the east end of a low range bears 100° 380’, the east
end of the Petermann Range bears 147° 30! beyond which is a very
distant peak (probably Stevenson's Peak). The most easterly end
of a line of hills bears 322°, the western end 311° 30’. I have
named this South’s Range, after Mr. South, the warden of goldfields
and superintendent of police at Alice Springs, to whom I am much
indebted for obtaining for my service the black tracker, Billy
from the ranks of the native police; a more willing, intelligent,
industrious and skilful native it would be impossible to have. The
Petermann Range appears as a long low range without any points
of special interest; it appears to be not more than six miles away,

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 47

the intervening country being oak and spinifex sandhills, all
showing evidence of haying been recently burnt. This part of the
range on the south side appears very precipitous without any sign
of a creek from any point. I find by aneroid measurement that
Mount Harris is 1,422ft. above the level of the plain. Descending
from the hill we reached the camels at 1:20, having been occupied
three hours. Having partaken of a light lunch, for which the
climb gave us a very keen appetite, I stood away easterly for one
and a half miles to get off the stones, and then turned S. 64° E. for
three miles and then turned east to follow the foot of the range,
hoping at every mile to meet with a watercourse. Kept on this
bearing for four miles, travelling over level spinifex sandy country
with occasional oaks. Arrived at the end of the range, where
there was a small patch of bushes and feed for the camels and in a
beautiful clump of oak timber, called a halt for the night. The
outline of Mount Harris from this point is one of imposing
grandeur, but my experience has now taught me that it is not to
such features as these that the traveller in these regions must
trust for assistance, far more reliable are the small rocks met with in
the heavy sandhill country; these may be difficult to find, and are
often found quite by accident, but I think at most of them the
temporary requirements of a light party will be found in the small
rock reservoirs and native wells, which seem to be the only form of
water supply in this country. Bar. 28°200in., ther. 62° at 5 p.m.

Thursday, June 20th—Camp No. 51, Pine Rocks. — Bar.
28°325in., ther. 36°. Cold, S.E. wind.—Started on a bearing of
N. 45° E. towards a low stony range, travelled over spinifex sand-
hills for three miles and then followed along the foot of the range
upon a bearing of S. 80° E. for five miles. ‘I was not in a
position to start from here to Lake Amadeus for I thought it pro-
bable that some difficult country would have to be travelled over ;
the camels having had but very little feed and no water since leay-
ing the rocks are not in good trim for such an undertaking. The
little sandstone rocks were not many miles away and plainly visible,
so I decided to give them a day there before starting for the lake,
turned upon a bearing of N. 20° W. and in six miles reached the
rock, forming a camp on the north side close to the reservoir.
Bar. 28°550in., ther. 75° at 5 p.m

Friday, June 21st.—Camps Nos. 48 and 51. Bar. 28°625in.,
ther. 36°. Fine cold east wind.—Took two photographic views of
the north side of the rock. The reservoir is not to be seen in it.
It lays about half way up the slope, and a little westerly of a white
gum-tree marked ,, The camels walked nearly up to the water,
and it was carried down to them in buckets. Had they been
really thirsty, this would have been a very tedious undertaking.
It is most lovely weather, and this is a very pleasant camping place,
the camels so well contented that they are never out of sight of
the camp. From the reservoir this morning I noticed a range

48 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

bearing N. 74° E.. that I had not observed before; either I had
not noticed it, or from unfavorable conditions of the atmesphere
it was not in sight, and as Mr. Giles’ position of Mt. Unapproach-
able was not an observed one, it is quite possible this may be it. I
shall take a course to-morrow a little south of this hill, which
must take me to the lake. Bar. 28-600in., ther. 68° at 5 p.m.

Saturday, June 22nd.—Camp No. £2. Bar. 28°638in., ther., 42°.
Light clouds, cold east wind.—Started away at 8°30 on a bearing
of 90°. Passed through mulga scrub in broad sandy flats between
sandhills, the spinifex not being so thick as we have been ac-
customed to lately. This soon gave out, and.dwarf mallee was
passed through. I noticed a few white gums on the sandhills at
midday, and we soon entered into an undulating sandy country,
which was quite a forest of those gum and oak trees, very pleasing
indeed to the eye, calling to mind the forest country of many parts
of Victoria, the waving stems of the spinifex being well taken for
pasture. But there was no sign whatever of animal life, and,
to make it still worse, it is a country evidently avoided by the
blacks, for though we have not seen any during the whole journey
we are quite sensible of their proximity at times; but no sign of a
piece of burnt ground has been passed during the day. ‘The sand-.
hills in the afternoon were distressing to the camels and the
spinifex seemed matted together. There is absolutely nothing
whatever but this and the white gums. and after a long day’s
march it is hard to have to tie the camels up all night with neither
food or water, but this has been their fate so very frequently upon
their journey that they take it as a matter of course. Travelled
twenty-one miles over such country that I wish never to meet again.
Bar. 28°610in., ther. 56° at 5 p.m.

Sunday, June 23rd—Camp No. 53; latitude 24° 30’ 43”. Bar.
28°650in., ther. 86°.—The night was cold and I noticed a slight
dew this morning. Started at 8:45 upon a bearing of 90° and
soon came to a small salt pan; turned one mile N.E to avoid this
and continued on our course. At this point the sandhills became
very much higher and running into each other in a confused and
irregular manner and covered with white gums and oaks, at eight
miles I ascended a high sandhill and observed an extensive tract of
salt lake running easterly and westerly ; this, however, appeared of
no width, not exceeding a mile at its widest part, and as I wished
to deal with its western extremity I turned the caravan in that
direction. Upon the north side of the salt lake was a low line of
hills of peculiar appearance, having either been recently burnt by
the blacks, or else they are masses of bare red rock. I now turned
N. 15° W., travelled over spinifex sandhills for one and a half miles
and reached the shore of the lake, the width was only a few
chains, but I noticed a long wide arm extending northerly towards
the range. Travelled along the south shore for two miles west,
which brought us to the west extremity of the lake, turned N.
25° W. one and a half miles, still keeping close to the lake, then

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 49

turned N. 53° E. and camped close to edge of what I think must
be Lake Amadeus. Bar. 28°675in,, ther. 61° at 5 p.m.

Monday, June 24th.—Camp No. 54. Bar. 28°680in., ther. 24°.
—Upon rising this morning soon after dawn everything was white
with frost, blankets hard and stiff, and a considerable thickness of
ice in a tin dish that had been left out with some water in it;
fortunately there was abundance of firewood, so we did not feel the
eold so much as we should otherwise have done. Started away at
8-50 upon a bearing of N. 52° E. towards some bare looking rocks.
and a gap in the range that runs east and west, and whose western
end may, be said to mark the western extremity of Lake Amadeus,
I have called it Long’s Range, after my brother-in-law, Mr. John
Long, of Richmond, New South Wales. In a direct line, this gap
was about five miles from our last camp, but meeting with an arm
of the lake that made me turn a little westerly, we did not reach
the gap until I had travelled considerably more than that distance.
A small water channel runs from the western end of the range
into a long salt arm that extends to within a mile of the hills, and
at the head of this arm, and upon each side of the creek, there is a
nice piece of country well grassed with saltbush and cotton bush,
and several clay pans, which were full of water. I find the range
to be the same formation as the the little rocks at Camp 48, their
bare reddish appearance being caused partly through having been
recently burnt by the blacks and partly from large masses of bare
sandstone. No water was found, though I judge there must be a
native watering place at the western end; but it was not our
good fortune to find it, Ascending the highest point available,
I was surprised to get no view of the lake. ‘To the southward
it appeared at two or three points, but only as a very narrow
channel; to the north-east a group of low hills was observed,
being not more than five miles distant; all the country in that
direction seems to have been recently burnt. Mount Olga was dis-
tinctly visible, bearing S. 23° E., and Mount Harris 8. 67° W.; a
low, flat-topped hill bore S. 82° E., distant about twenty-five
miles. Descending from the hill (which was of no great height),
I continued along the foot of the range for three miles upon a
bearing of N. 86° E., and then turned east for three miles. I was
now anxious to meet with the lake, for near its shore was my only
chance of obtaining food for the camels. Turned upon a bearing
of S. 50° E. Travelled on spinifex and oak sandhills for five
miles, and then turned south. In one mile I came upon a beauti-
ful salt and cotton bush flat, and a little further on found some
large deep claypans full of water. This was an opportunity not
to be missed, and though it was still early in the afternoon (4°15)
I had the animals unpacked, and they were soon hoppled out upon
the first pasture they have had upon this journey. They were
all ready for water, and drank greedily. Bar. 28°680in., ther. 56°
at 5 p.m.

D

50 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Tuesday, June 25th.—Camp No. 55; S. latitude 24° 35’ 18”, EF.
long. 130° 31’. Bar. 28°750in., ther. 26°. Keen east wind.—Started
at 8°30 on a bearing of S. 60° EK. After passing through a belt
of dense mulga scrub we entered upon a saltbush plain, with good
grass, now quite green. Numerous large claypans full of water
sparkled in the bright morning sunlight. Near the claypans the
ground was still soft from the rains, and in one or two places the
camels got bogged. In these claypans both polygonum and cane
grass were observed —not the tall vigorous variety met with m
Riverina; but it was quite a new feature to us, accustomed for so
long to nothing but the odious spinifex. Continued upon this
bearing for eight miles, when we found ourselves at the head of an
arm of the lake. I now turned towards the flat-topped hill seen
from Long’s Range. ‘Travelled upon bearing of N. 76° E., and in
six and a half miles reached the hill. From the top Mount Olga
bears nearly south; tne shore of the lake is about two miles off to
the southward, cotton and sait bush country intervening. The
lake here appears to be less than four miles across, and is seen
stretching away to the south-east beyond the limits of vision. Upon
Mr. Giles’ map little hills such as these are shown; and,as he
speaks of a saltbush country, the conviction is forced upon me that
the west extremity of Long’s Range is his Mount Unapproachable,
and this is verified by the bearmg of Mount Olga and from the
fact that no signs of any hills or ranges are to be seen towards the
south-east. Having satisfied myself upon those points, I decided
to go no further to the eastward, but to return to the west end
of the lake, traverse its south shore, and from there start to Mount
Olga. Returned on my tracks for six miles, and camped upon an.
arm of the lake. Bar. 28-725in., ther. 77° at 5 p.m.

Wednesday, June 26th.—Camp No. 55; S. latitude 24° 35’ 18”,
variation 1°41’ E. Bar. 28°715in., ther. 27°. Cold, frost, clear.—-
There being very excellent feed here for the camels, a day’s rest
for them is desirable, and I decided to remain here for their benefit
and endeavered to sketch in a portion of the outline of the lake;
but anything more irregular than its north shore line cannot well be
drawn, and nothing but an actual traverse could delineate its
numerous estuaries, bays, peninsulas, gulfs, and islands. Took a
very careful circumferentor bearing to Mount Olga from this camp,
and find it to be 174° 30’: and I am satisfied that I am east of
Mount Unapproachable. It cannot be looked upon as otherwise
than providential that Giles was prevented from reaching the west
extremity of this lake; for when we reflect upon the character of
the country that awaited him had he done so, instead of it taking
him, as he anticipated, into a more fertile country, it would have
been into difficulties that might have ended in disaster, perhaps
death. At this point the oaks and spinifex come down to the edge
of the lake, the opposite shore being at least three miles distant.
Two wild dogs were observed upun the shore of the lake this
morning. Bar. 28°62din., ther. 60° at 5 p.m.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 51

Thursday, June 27th.—Camp No. 56. Bar. 28-600in., ther. 31°.
—Returned upon my outgoing tracks for one mile. I then started
upon a bearing of N. 80° W. In three miles reached a saltbush
plain with claypans and grass. I obtained a good view of a portion
of the lake, which is here two miles wide. Continued through oak
forests with occasional clumps of white cum trees, the sandhills
running irregularly, but not of any great height. There were
some large patches of ground that the blacks had burnt, and upon
these we travelled whenever opportunity offered, for it is an im-
mense relief to the camels to be off the spinifex if only for a few
yards. At nine miles the west extremity of Long’s Range was
observed, and to avoid meeting with the arms of the lake, that
extend nearly to its foot, [turned upon a bearing of N. 65° W. for
seven miles. At this point we came upon a flat saltbush country,
with grass, mulga, and claypans. Turned N. 56° E. for three miles,
and hit our outgoing tracks near the foot of Mount Unapproachable.
It was noticed that the tracks of four blacks had our been on trail,
but they only continued there a short distance. The last seen of
their tracks they were evidently making for the hills. Camped at
a claypan at the extreme western end of the lake. Bar. 28°425in.,
ther. 64° at 5 p.m.

Friday, June 28th—Camp No. 57; S. latitude 24° 39’ 16”.
Bar. 28°510in., ther. 46°.—The camels all drank well last night, and
as there was abundance of feed for them they looked very well
when brought up for duty. I imtend to follow down the south
shore of the lake to-day, so followed my tracks for three miles to
the point where we first struck the lake, the camels marched grandly
along upon the clear flat clean ground upon the shore of the lake.
I then took up a course of S. 52° E., which I thought would allow
of my continuing if not upon the shore at any rate within sight of
it, with some few diversions to avoid certain inlets. This continued
for eight miles. I was anxious to hug the lake as close as possible,
for the spinifex sandhills to the south I could see were rather
alarming. After rounding rather a deep inlet, I turned S. 42° E.
I kept pretty nearly upon this course for five miles, but was con-
tinually being turned by the irregularities of the shore line, and
once or twice the camels were bogged; so turned east, which
course took me into very heavy sandhills, indeed—hills and hollows
alike covered with white gum trees, quite a forest. Continued for
four miles, and then turned north-east for the shore of the lake,
which I reached in one mile. Followed down the lake for half a
mile and camped, after a tedious heavy day’s work for the camels.
It is worthy of remark that while the north shore of this lake opens
out into rajher extensive flats of saltbush, cotton-bush, grass, clay-
pans, and mulga, the south shore is bounded by high sandhills of
the most forbidding character, entirely destitute of other grass than
spinifex, and without any surface of clay, which, forming into
shallow pools, would allow water to accumulate. The white gum

52 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

trees before alluded to appear healthy, but are not of such sort to
be of much service for ordinary bush purposes. Bar. 28°455in.,
ther. 68° at 5 p.m.

Saturday, June 29th.—Camp No. 58. Bar. 28°575in., ther. 48°,
cloudy, calm. — One of the camels (Darby) was brought up looking
very bad, and my riding camel (‘Tooroo) looks anything but bright.
It seems only too likely that they have eaten some poisonous herb.
Darby has always been in trouble ever since we left the Peake,
and though he is the largest camel of the lot he is by no means
the strongest. Lately he has carried only about 150lbs. weight,
and for the last two days he carried two empty casks. This day
I am sure will bea severe one, but as there is neither food nor
water for them here I must move them on with the hope that
they may reach Mount Olga, where I have promised them a full
week’s rest. While they were being saddled up I took a walk
down to the lake and ventured upon its surface. I should have
said that water is only to be seen in a few places, even after the
heavy rains of this winter. Its surface is white with a thin coating
of salt, and I was surprised to find that for fully half a mile it was
quite firm to walk upon, and I think, had it been desirable, that I
could have walked to the opposite shore, not more than two miles
distant. I found upon removing a few inches of yellow sand from
the surface that I came upon fragments of gypsum. I imagine
that salt springs would be found upon many parts of its surface,
which alone account for any water that is occasionally seen upon
it. Started away at 8°35 on a bearing of S. 10° KE. for Mount Olga.
My camel was so bad that I had to take a place in the rear of the -
caravan, so that having a track beaten down it would be easier for
him. Billy now rode on ahead. He does not keep well on any
course, but for the present I must let him go his own way.
Travelled over high spinifex sandhills for five miles, when we
were turned off our course by a salt pan of about a mile in length.
The sandhills now were less severe, and the whitegum timber disap-
peared, its place being taken by occasional clumps of mulga and a
tew few oaks. Camped at 5 p.m. in open spinifex sandhills with
but scanty feed for the camels. They were let go to make the best
of it for two or three hours, but Darby returned to camp of his own
accord and lay down, and my camel Tooroo laid down without at-
tempting to go and feed. At 8 o’clock Fred and Billy collected
all the others, and they were tied up for the night. Mount Olga
from here presents a most wonderful appearance. Bar. 28°500in.,
ther. 58° at 5 p.m.

Sunday, June 30th —Camp No. 59. Bar. 28°575in., ther. 30°.—
Let the camels go a little before daybreak. It was a bitterly cold
night. From this camp a range that I take to be the McNicholl’s
Range of Giles bears S. 41° W., distant about six miles. At its
¢astern extremity is a large dome-shaped mass of bare red rock of
most singular appearance. It is evidently a hill similar to Mount

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 590

Olga, and would well repay a visit. The scrubs look to be very
thick around its base, but with two sick camels I think it best to
push on to where I know there is good quarters where they may
recruit. The dome-shaped rock at ‘the end of MeNicholl’s Range
I have named Mount Currie, after John Lang Currie, Esq., of Vic-
toria. Started away at 8°20 upon a bearing of S. ir E., Mount
Olga being now in full view. Seen for the first time from any point
this mountain must always strike the traveller as being a strange
and wonderful object, and our wonder and amazement increases as
it is approached. Travelled over spinitex sandhills for eleven
miles, and then reached stony ground with mulga scrub and occa-
sional patches of grass. Continued on until 4°30, the last few miles
being over mulga flats splendidly grassed. This camp is situated
two miles north of the Mount. The stony nature of the ground
on ahead prompted me not to tax my weak camels too much, and
there being very luxuriant feed for them here I camped, having
travelled twenty-one miles. I took some views with the camera
from this point, but the distance is too great for my small appa-
ratus. The sick camels went away feeding directly they were let
loose, but they evidently require some nursing. Bar. 28-300in.,
ther. 56° at 5 pm.

Monday, July 1st.—Camp No. 60, Mount Olga. Bar. 28°325in.,
ther. 36°. Fine, clear. cold east wind.—Started at 8:50, and at one
and a half miles was at the foot of this stupendous mass of bare
rock, proceeding round its west extremity I passed a beautifully
grassed flat, timbered with bloodwood and mulga. There was a
stream of clear water running southwards for nearly a mile from
the range; passed this, and in another mile reached Mr. Giles’s
camp under the abrupt wall of the mountain. Here was another
beautiful stream of water, but as it was not so favorable a camping
place as the first stream we crossed I returned, and the camels
were soon let go upon the most luxuriant pasture; they did not
move much during the day, and when tired of feeding they rolled
about on it, and toward evening strolled off down the flat. Bar.
28°150in., ther. 54° at 5 p.m.

Tuesday, July 2nd.—Camp No. 60, Mount Olga. Bar. 28°310in.,
ther. 40°.—A very strong southerly wind sprang up during the
night, and the morning was piercingly cold. Upon collecting the
camels this morning the two invalids were missing. Billy went
after them, and in about an hour he returned. ‘They were most
wretched looking objects. I cannot attribute their indisposition to
any cause but poison, for the other camels are all extremely well,
but the symptoms are different to those which were poisoned near
Glen Edith. There is now a heaving of the flank and a difficulty of
breathing. and each inspiration is followed by a wheezing noise, a
very slight discharge from the nose, and they resolutely refuse
the daintiest anrgeal of food offered them. My camel Tooroo
seems the least affected of the two. Employed during the day

54 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

mapping, posting up diaries, repairing clothes and boots. Bar.
28°315in., ther. 48° at 5 p.m.

Wednesday, July 3rd.—Camp No. 60, Mount Olga. Bar.
28°325in., ther. 26° at sunrise.—It is doubtful if the two invalid
camels will ever leave here. Darby has certainly eaten nothing
since he arrived, and he is rapidly falling away in condition. I
think the suggestion cannot be too often repeated, viz., that future
travellers in these regions should be supplied with some simple
remedies for these cases of vegetable poison. ‘Tooroo has borne
the full brunt and burden of the journey, for being always in advance
he has had the roughest of travelling; he has carried me bravely
throughout, and it is sad to see the noble creature stricken down
and helpless. Every advantage has been given to the other one,
for being always in the rear the camels in advance have made the
way smooth for him. Our camp is situated at the entrance to a
defile in the mountain, upon one side is a perpendicular wall of
rock a quarter of a mile long; walking up this defile or gap it is.
found that walls of solid stone are upon each side, and all is stone
underfoot, and along this pavement a little stream of water runs
the whole length of the gorge. The whole mountain is a mass of
coarse conglomerate, the stones varying in size from that of a pea
up to 6in. in diameter, only in two or three instances were any
found that would be termed a boulder. Of the many hundreds of
stones examined during a long ramble not a fragment of quartz was
observed.

Thursday, July 4th.—Camp No. 60, Mount Olga. Bar.29-290in..,.
ther. 48°, cloudy, cold.—All the camels were brought up but one.
Darby has answered his last call and is now atrest. He appears to:
have died without any pain, for there is not any sign on the ground
of a struggle. Tooroo is gradually becoming weaker, and rambles.
about unfettered by himself. I leave here on Monday. I may take
him with me as far as Ayers’ Rock, but he will most likely be left
here, where there is such splendid pasture and water for him. The
other camels are in splendid heart, racing after each other, kicking,
and playing directly their hobbles were taken off. Desirous of
knowing something of the wash that comes from this mountain I
took a tin dish to the creek and panned off some of the drift. Not
recelving any encouragement I tried further down the creek.
Noticed a fine black sand in the bottom of the dish, which being
tested proved to be as pecular ore of iron. Bar. 28-225in., ther, 58°
at 5 p.m.

Friday, July 5th.—Mount Olga. Bar. 28°280in., ther. 42°.—.
Had one man engaged prospecting down the creek. Engaged the
greater part of the day with the camera. Bar. 28'180in., ther. 82°
at 5 p.m.

Saturday, July 6th.—Mount Olga. Bar. 28-075in., ther. 30°.—
Tooroo does not improve and looks a most pitiable object. My
one regret is that I am unable to do anything for him. I went

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 55

down the creek prospecting, selecting a spot lower down the little
water channel than where Fred worked yesterday. The others
engaged in mending saddles and preparing for a start on Monday.
Geological specimens Nos. 79 to 84 collected.

Sunday, July 7th—Mount Olga. Bar. 28°100in., ther. 38°.—
Beetscn and Warman went for a ramble round the foot of the
mount. Beetson returned with material for several sketches of the
most striking points of interest. Noticed several blacks’ fires close
by, and I thought we should have had the pleasure of their com-
pany, but none came within sight. The little streamlet that here
leaves the mountain runs over a stone pavement for 2U0 or 300:
yards, shaded by the smooth and perpendicular cliffs. We imagine
what a cool, clean retreat this must be from the blinding rays of
the summer’s sun—‘ The shadow of a great rock in a weary
land.” Being cold winter weather we seek the sunshine and
watch for the sun’s rays to reach us. As the great shadow is
gradually withdrawn from the plain it reaches its base about 9
a.m. Went up the gorge to take some photographs, and in one
or two small hollows was some crystal clear water about three or
four inches deep. The bottoms of these little rock basins had all
the appearance of the most exquisite mosaic work. The water
rushing from the surrounding slopes in times of rain had forced
out every particle of sand and foreign matter and left the many-
colored conglomerate perfectly clean, and seen through the clear
water was a most beautiful sight. Some years ago I attempted the
ascent of this mountain and failed. I know the cvuntry around
for over 100 miles. Its height is already determined (1,5/)0ft.),
and no object would be gained by attempting it again. To reach
that point all that would be required would be a rocket and line
to draw up a rope ladder, and then a mortal with sufficient nerve to
make the ascent. It is quite evident that this place has not been
visited by whites since Giles and I were here in 1874. I leave
behind two camel packsaddles ana four boxes, and being on stony
ground and in perpetual shade they will remain there a long time
without injury.

Monday, July 8th—Camp No. 61. Bar. 28:050in., ther. 33°.
Fine, bright, clear.—After having been to see Tooroo, I decided to
leave here to-day. It is evident his recovery will take a very
long time, for, in addition to his internal ailment, he is suffering
from an injury to one of his hind legs. Upon this he was never
strong, and | think that in one of the bogs at Lake Amadeus he
must have again injured it. A more beautiful and luxuriant spot
could not be found for him to recruit in, and I sincerely hope he
may recover. Started easterly at 12°15, taking the south side of
the range. Travelled over well-grassed mulga flats for five miles ;
at seven miles occasional patches of spinifex were passed over.
Camped at 4°30, having travelled ten miles. Bar. 28:300in., ther.
74° at 5 p.m.

06 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Tuesday, July 9th.—Camp No. 62. Bar. 28°300in., ther. 32°,
calm, bright, and fine.—Started away at 8 a.m., Ayers Rock being
five or six miles away. Travelled over sandy flats covered with
mulga scrub, passing occasional spinifex sandhills, and soon reached
the grass flats at the foot of the rock. Passed round the south
base of this mountain of unbroken, unfractured stone. At 11°30 I
unsaddled upon the spot where I camped fifteen years ago, when
here with Giles. After dinner we went out to explore and admire
this wonder in solid granite. Many and varied are the wonderful
shapes it assumes. In one place the graceful curves and lines
upon this vast expanse of rock resemble an enormous curtain
turned into stone. In one or two places large caves are to be
found near the foot, and these in a measure spoil the otherwise
regular and graceful lines chiselled by nature upon its face. The
rock formation is a coarse-grained grey granite, the surface all
over bearing a reddish color from exposure to the elements,
smooth as glass, and almost polished. It appears to me to be
quite inaccessible, except at the one point where Mr. Gosse
and his companions made the ascent. Bar. 28°375in., ther. 62°
at 5 p.m.

Wednesday, July 10th—Camp No. 62. Ayers’ Rock. Bar.
28°555in., ther. 36°, a keen easterly wind.—To-day I made a
diligent search for Mr. Gosse’s marked tree, taking Billy with
me. For two hours or more we wandered about, closely exam-
ining every tree. I remember it was an unusually large blood-
wood, but its exact locality I could not recollect; but quite close
to his camp I saw the charred stump of such a tree, and upon
the ground was observed a long line of ash and charcoal, and it
became evident beyond doubt that this was Mr. Gosse’s tree. At
the time of the fire there must have been a very high wind, for
its destruction is most complete, not a twig or spray being left.
Being such a large tree, it was probably in some part a little
decayed, and this would accelerate the work of destruction. I was
sorry for its loss, as it would have been interesting to have com-
pared the overgrowth with that from Glen Edith. Bar. 28°430in.,
ther. 62° at 4 p.m. Rock specimens Nos. 85 to 88 collected.

Thursday, July 11th.—Camp No. 62, Ayers’ Rock. Bar.
28°600in., ther. 48°.—-Strong, variable, and very cold winds,
cloudy. ‘Took several photographic views of the Rock. Collect-
ing specimens.

Friday, July 12th.—Camp No. 63. Bar. 28°600in., ther. 48°.—
Cold easterly wind. Started away towards Mount Connor, on a
bearing of 98°, at 9 a.m. Soon after starting one of the camels,
‘** Moochar,” went dead lame, had to slow down all day to give him
a chance: it seems to be a contraction of the back sinews, he is a
grand camel, and I trust he is not going to lay up; their loads now
are very light indeed, so that cannot be the cause of it. Travelled
fifteen miles. Bar. 28°55in., ther. 54° at 5 p.m.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 57

Saturday July 13th—Camp No. 64. Bar. 28°650in., ther.
45°.—Keen easterly winds. Started at 8°30. ‘* Moochar”’ does
not appear much better this morning. Made other arrangements
for his benefit, and to-day he will only carry the little boy, Weei.
Traveiled upon the same bearing as yesterday, over spinifex sand-
hills, with broad firm flats between them, these were covered with
mulga, and in some places were very scrubby with quantities of
dead wood laying upon the ground, this made travelling difficult.
It has been very cold to-day, too cold to ride. Many of us are
almost barefooted, so walking isa luxury denied us. Several fresh
tracks of blacks were passed this morning, and their fires were
quite close to us. Camped at 4°30, having travelled twenty miles.
Bar. 28°725in., ther. 50° at 5 p.m.

Sunday, July 14th——Camp No. 65. Bar. 28°710in. ther. 29°.
—A bitterly cold night, had to turn out several times to make up
the fire, bedding all frozen hard. Started at 8°30, Mount Connor
being in full view. Travelled over grass flats covered with dense
mulga scrub, between these were spinifex sandhills; at noon
reached a low sandstone ridge, covered with dense mulga, and is
marked by a low abrupt cliff that stops the caravan approaching
any nearer to Mount Connor. Followed up this low ridge in a
northerly direction, and in five miles Billy, who was walking on
ahead, cried out ‘‘ water!’ I think I never saw water in a more
unlikely looking place, it was in a native well, at the foot of this
cliff of fractured and riven sandstone; there are several native
encampments in its vicinity, otherwise there are no indications
whatever. I decided to take advantage of this discovery, so had
the camels turned out while I ascended the little ridge to view
the surroundings. I find that this little spring is about half a
mile from the most easterly end of this low ridge, and about a
mile and a half north of Mount Connor. I notice an attractive
range about thirty miles distant, its outline and general appearance
being very similar to Gill’s Range. Its western extremity bears
N. 8 E.; its eastern end N. 22° E. A salt lake formation bears
N. 15° E. This may possibly be the eastern extremity of Lake
Amadeus; another salt channel bears 3°. I intended to have
travelled easterly from here towards the Goyder Springs, but this
range, with a lake apparently close to it, has altered my plans.
I shall visit these features, for neither are marked upon any plans
that Ihave. The peaks of the Musgrave Ranges appear so tempt-
ingly close, and I should much like to go down there before
going to Erldunda, but while there are new features to discover
I must deny myself the pleasure. Bar. 28°680in., ther. 46° at 5

m.

Monday, July 15th.—Camp No. 65; S. lat. 25° 26’ 55”. Bar.
28°650in., ther. 32°.—Cold easterly wind, with frost. I had to get
up several times during the night, owing to the extreme cold. At
2 a.m. the thermometer went down to 29°. The camels wandered

58 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

away during the night, and were not brought up till midday. I
noticed large flocks of mariens flying about overhead; decided to
remain here the rest of the day. Bar. 28°580., ther. 62° at 5 p.m.

Tuesday, July 16th.—Camp No. 66. Bar. 28°575in., ther. 322,
cold east wind.—The camels seem to quite dislike this place. They
rambled away again last night and were not brought up till midday.
Started away at 1 p.m. upon a bearing of N. 15° E ; travelled over
spinifex sandhills with mulga scrub between them. Native poplars
were noticed on the sandhills; this class of country continued for
eight miles, when the sandhills fell off and we entered upon firm
flats with nodules of limestone with dwarf acacias and saltbush.
In another mile reached the south-east end of a small salt lake.
Here I fixed the camp for the night, there being splendid feed for
the camels. Travelled ten miles. Bar. 28°700in., ther. 56° at 5 p.m.

Wednesday, July 17th.—Camp No. 67; S. latitude 25° 5’ 40”.
Bar. 28°750, ther. 26°.—We had but a slender supply of firewood
last night. At dawn the boxes, bedding, pillows, &c., were white
with frost. At present the bed of this lake is covered with salt
water, and, sparkling in the bright sunshine, louks quite attrac-
tive. Started away at 8°50. Rounded the lake in two miles upon
a bearing of N. 40°E. Then turned N. 14° E., which taking us
away from the little lake soon brought us into spinifex sandhills.
Kept on this bearing for two miles, and then turned N. 8° E.
towards a gap in the range I was steering for. Soon after starting
on this bearing struck the south-west arm of a salt channel about
half a mile wide and five miles long. Two miles further on struck
the south end of another salt lake which had water init. Travelled
upon the east shore for three miles. Here the travelling was flat
and free from spinifex, and was a great relief to the camels. Upon
reaching the north end I expected that we should enter into spinifex
sandhills again, but was agreeably surprised to find a country
covered with dwarf acacias and leguminose. The surface was
strewn with nodules of limestone, and fer the first time upon the
journey a bluebush was seen. I noticed also a dwarf pittosporum
that I had seen on the south shore of Lake Amadeus. The country
continued of this description for four miles. We then entered in
a level country with mulga scrubs and the usual coarse tussock
grass. This, however, was now quite green. Perhaps to celebrate
our advent this very dreary-looking country was attired in its best,
but I think these dense mulga scrubs are particularly dreary and
monotonous travelling, more especially so when the unknown
feature for which you are steering loses that attractive appearance
that it had a few miles further back, and as each succeeding mile
brings you closer it becomes more certain that you will meet with
disappointment and accumulating difficulties. At thirteen miles
from our last camp I turned N. 45° E. to examine a place where I
thought I observed a difference in the timber, and in two miles
approached a stony water channel in which were growing a few

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 59

very stunted gumtrees. I followed this up towards the range for
a mile, and then came to some small pools of very beautifully
elear water. The range for which I had been steering was about
two miles ahead of us, and did not look by any means inviting,
stony and fringed with a belt of dense mulga scrub. I could not
see any place “where water would be likely to accumulate. Of
course the water where our camp is situated is only from recent
rains, and will not last much more than a week. Bar. 28°550in.,.
ther. 56° at 4 p.m.

Thursday, July 18th.—Camp No. 68; S. lat. 25° 5’ 40”. Bar.
28-525in., ther. 32°.—A central point of Mount Connor bears 200°
35’ from this camp, but as it presents only an extensive flat surface
I should say that is the bearing of its centre. Started at 8°30 ona
bearing of N. 40° W. towards the western end of the range, thence
west for two miles; I was now at the western extremity of the
range, having travelled over stony slopes and through dense mulga
since leaving camp. I now turned northerly for two miles over
the same class of country. Before turning easterly I ascended a
slope of the range and observed low hills to the west, about four
miles distant south-westerly, and, separated from these by a small
gap, is another line of hills; to the northward were spinifex sand-
hills. I now turned upon a bearing of S: 84° E. to traverse the
northern slopes of the range ; travelled through dense mulga scrub
for four miles and then turned S. 76° E., in five miles upon this
bearing reached the eastern end of the range. No watercourse
will be found to run from either the north or south slopes of this
range ; it does not appear to be much frequented by the blacks,
nor do I think any water exists there. Directly I left the range the
country improved, and at sundown I turned the camels out upon a
grassy mulga flat where was the most luxuriant herbage for them.
Travelled eighteen miles, being much delayed owing to the difficult
nature of the ground I have named this the ‘“ Kernot Range,”
after Professor Kernot, of the Melbourne University, and the
highest point at its western extremity, Mount Thompson, after the
Hon. H. M. Thompson, of Victoria. Bar. 28°550in., ther. 57° at 5

m.

Friday, July 19th.—Camp No. 69. S. Lat. 25° 5’ 40”. Bar.
28°455in., ther. 32°-—Started on a bearing of 96°, passed over flat
firm mulga country, occasionally coming to little hollows where
the new growth of herbage was very luxuriant; in three miles
turned our bearing of 92°, at this point two low isolated hills bore
north, distant about three miles; here we came across a claypan
with water in it, the blacks have placed boughs round one end of
it to entrap emus. I noticed splendid cotton bush growing at this
spot, the first seen since leaving the settlements. I found this ridge
to be composed entirely of sandstone laying horizontally; after
three miles of very rough stony hill travelling, and were again upon
a flat well-grassed country. At fifteen miles from the last camp

60 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

turned upon a bearing of 98°, this just took us clear of the east end
of a line of low hills also composed of white sandstone, the outer
surface of which is reddened by exposure and consequent decom-
position. At sixteen miles from last camp resumed on a bearing
of 96° and travelled over a country that was entirely new to us.
For months we have been accustomed to nothing but sandhills and
spinifex, here we had an open flat, firm surface, nicely timbered
with mulga and ironwood, and clothed with saltbush, cotton-bush,
and bluebush, but there was not so much grass as I should have
liked to have seen; kangaroo and emu were seen occasionally, this
class of country appears to extend for a considerable distance to
the southward. <A range of hills of about 800 feet elevation lay
about two miles to northward of our line of march and appeared to
extend a considerable distance to the eastward. I hoped to have
intersected some creeks running to the southwards from it, but
none were met with. At 4 p.m. I reached a low limestone knoll
from which I obtained an extensive view to the south and south-
west ; to the eastwards isolated lowhills, such as this I am now on,
were dotted here and there leading me to infer that in that direc-
tion I may soon come upon a table land country. At 4°30, meeting
with an exceptionally rich patch of herbage and bush for the
camels, I turned out, having travelled twenty-four miles. Mount
Connor is rather indistinctly seen from this camp, bearing 235° 10’.
I have named this the ‘“‘ Basedow Range,’’ after F. Basedow, Esq.,
M.P., of Adelaide. Bar. 28°410in , ther. 58° at 5 p.m.

Saturday. July 20th.—Camp No. 70; latitude 25° 6' 35". Bar.
28-430, ther. 39°.—The camels looked very well indeed this morn-
ing. Started away upona bearing of N. 44° E. at 845. I adopted
this course that I might examine a favorable-looking part of the
range, and soon after leaving camp passed some black gunyahs,
where they had been camping in time of rain, a claypan being near
at hand that had supplied their requirements. Passed over a few
low stony hills, well clothed with grass, saltbush, and bluebush,
and in two and a half miles reached the foot of the Basedow Range.
I find it composed of a white sandstone, the surface of which had
become of a brown color owing to exposure. It is covered with
mulga scrub. From its summit the view to the northward appears
to be one of saltbush and cotton-bush country, flat, and timbered
with mulga. The horizon, however, is not a very distant one, which
leads me to suppose that probably a sandhill country will be met
with in that direction. Descending from the hill I travelled upon
a bearing of 94°. Passed over very splendid pasture country until
midday, and then turned the camels out, as I had numerous camp
duties to attend to. The weather was delightful and the surround-
ings most charming. Bar. 28°550in., ther. 61° at 5 p.m.

Sunday, July 2\st—Camp No. 71. Bar. 28°740in., ther. 52°.
—Started at 8°30 S. 60° E., towards a waterhole that Billy dis-
covered yesterday while out kangaroo hunting. Passed over cotton

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 61

and saltbush plains for three miles, wnen we reached a very exten-
sive cotton-bush plain that extended to the foot of the Basedow
Range, about four miles distant. Here Billy took us to a number
of claypans, a few of which contained water. After filling up the
kegs I started again, upon a bearing of 94°. Passed over good
pastoral country for three miles, and then turned one mile
southerly to examine a clump of box timber. Here was a small
and very shallow waterhole, but it was dry. Numerous kengaroo
were about, and two turkeys were seen, and numerous crows.
Resumed our course of 94°. At nine miles I was not very well
pleased to meet with spinifex sandhills again. At nineteen miles I
obtained an extensive view of the horizon to the south and south-
east. This tract of sandhill country appears to come from the
northward between the eastern end of the Basedow Range and the
western end of a range that I take to be the Erldunda Range, and
it does not appear to extend far to the southwards, for I can
observe low flat-topped hills and an apparently open country in
that direction. Camped at dusk in spinifex sandhills with a range
of sandhills bearing N, 55° E. from us and distant about six or
seven miles. There being no feed here, the camels were tied up
for the night. Travelled twenty-five miles. Bar. 28-800in.,
ther. 60° at 5 p.m.

Monday, July 22nd.—Camp No. 72, Erldunda Station. Bar.
28°845in., ther. 25°.—Started away upon a bearing of S. 76° E.,
at 8-45. Owing to a slight change of country near the camp I was
under the impression that I was out of the spinifex sandhills, but
I was soon convinced to the contrary, although the sandhills had
occasional flats of firm ground between them which were looking
fresh and green with grass and herbage. I continued in country of
this character for eight miles, when Billy called out that he had
seen an old horse track. At mid-day I came across two old dray
tracks. Calling Billy up to consult him, he decided that they
were the station drays carting in posts, and he said the station was
close by. The sandhills now became farther apart, and the inter-
vening country being better grassed, with occasional clumps of box
timber. Horse tracks became quite numerous, and of recent date.
At sixteen miles the station buildings were in sight, and soon after
we arrived and received a most cordial welcome from Mr. Tomlin.
Mr. Warburton was away on the run, but he arrived in the evening,
and entertained us with a kindly welcome and the warmest con-
gratulations upon our safe arrival. The evening was devoted on
the one hand to questions as to what had been going on in the
world, and on the other by relating the leading incidents of our
journey, which, as a brother explorer, Mr. Warburton could
thoroughly understand and realize. Travelled sixteen miles.

Tuesday, July 23rd.-—Camp No.72, Erldunda Station; S. latitude
25° 12’ 57”.—I learn from Mr. Warburton that the most prominent
point in the Erldunda Range is called Ippia by the blacks, and

62 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

that the highest point in the Basedow Range is known as Mount
Ebenezer, having been so named in memory of the late Mr. E.
Flint, of the Alice Springs telegraph station. The Basedow Range
is easily seen from any of the sandhills near the Goyder Springs,
though they seem never to have been visited. This group of
springs lay south-westerly from here, distant about twenty-five
miles.

Friday, August 2nd.—Camp No. 73.—After a stay of ten days
at Erldunda we prepared to take leave of Messrs. Warburton and
Conway, who have shown us every possible attention and kind-
ness during our stay, but before leaving it may not be out of place
to offer a few remarks upon the short history of this very distant
station. Erldunda Spring was discovered by Mr. Warburton
about five years ago, and was but a small native well at which
one horse could barely find a sufficiency. By the industry and
untiring energy of these two gentlemen this was soon opened out
and the supply of water at some seven or eight feet was found to
be practically unlimited. A double length of magnificent trough-
ing was accurately and substantially laid down and the run stocked.
As time, opportunity, and circumstances offered buildings and
yards were erected and a horse paddock a mile square securely
fenced. There is now a compact, substantial, and most comfort-
able homestead. As illustrating the capabilities of the spring I
may say that during my stay there I saw 400 head of cattle
watered there in halfan hour. A year ago the station was attacked
by blacks, and Messrs. Warburton and Park had a narrow escape
from the shower of spears that were thrown in the short. sharp
skirmish. During my stay reports were brought in by friendly
blacks that a large body of blacks were collecting at the Goyder
Springs intending to make another attack upon the place, and
there was a feeling of insecurity and uneasiness that the pioneer
settler is only too often subject to. At midday, everything bemg
in readiness, we started away, taking the track that for some few
miles goes towards the Goyder Springs. Travelled over sandy
country for eight or nine miles upon a bearing of 8. 66° W., and
then the dray track was lost. We now turned upon a bearing of
8. 66° W., and entered upon an extensive salt and cotton bush
plain, where we camped. ‘The herbage and grass were most luxu-
riant, the evening air being laden with the delicate perfume of
many wild flowers around. Travelled thirteen miles. As we were
unloading the camels a herd of cattle that had been to the Goyder
Springs passed us and camped a mile or so to the N.E. of us,
being on their way to Erldunda. For the first time upon this
journey noticed the beautiful Clianthus Dampieri (Sturt pea) in
bloom. Bar. 28°875in., ther. 56° at 5 p.m.

Saturday, August 3rd—Camp No. 74; S. iat. 25° 28’ 59”.
Bar. 28°850in., ther. 16°.—As will be seen by the thermometer,
this was by far the coldest night that we have experienced. Started

EXPLORING EXPEDITION, 63

away at 7°50, Billy volunteers to act as guide, being now in the
country that is known to him. He seems to think this to be his
post by every possible right of precedence, and as he promises to
go straight I allow him to do so, though I would have preferred
taking up the course myself. Billy did not go straight or any-
thing like it, but the outcome of all his eccentricities, when plotted
up, resulted in a general bearing of S. 40° W. for five miles, S. 36°
W. four miles. Here we reached a long narrow salt lagoon trending
east and west; near here was a claypan at which I| replenished the
kegs, albeit the water was very sufficiently yellow and thick. Con-
tinuing westerly for three miles, we reached the west extremity of
the salt lake; following this down for half an hour and then came
to a gully, down which in times of rain water would run from the
adjacent sandhills into the lake. Some two or three chains away
from the lake and up this gully was a small hole surrounded by
rushes and shaded by a small acacia bush. This was the spring,
evidently a very good one; the water is of most excellent quality,
and it simply requires deepening to water any quantity of stock.
From this spring we travelled 8. 58° W. for two miles and arrived
at Koolida Spring. Here are four or five mound springs with tall
reeds round them; they are situated upon the south-western end of
a small salt lagoon. The springs are choked up with black mud
and reeds, but a small stream of beautiful water runs from them
into the lake. Continuing upon a course of S. 30° W., we reached
the Elinburra Springs in one and a half miles, the most southerly
spring of the Goyder group and by far the best of them all. Like
all the rest, it is situated at the edge of a salt lagoon, and three
strong streams of beautiful water run into the lake. The adjacent
country is of an undulating character and to the southward is espe-
cially well grassed. From a low limestone hill a few hundred
yards westerly from the spring I expected to have been able to
take a bearing to Mount Connor, but was disappointed, no hills
being in sight but the Basedow and Erldunda Ranges, the former
bearing 321° 10’, and the latter 2u° 50’. Travelled sixteen miles.
Bar. 28°650in., ther. 64° at 5 p.m.

Sunday, August 4th—Camp No. 75; S. iat. 25° 36’ 46”. Bar.
28-600in., ther. 22°.—Started at 9 ona bearing of S. 65° 30’ E.
I was not by any means well, and I availed myself of Billy’s
knowledge of the country to travel in the lead and keep the course
while I took a place in the rear, where the travelling is much easier
than in the lead, there being actually nothing to do but sit still
and be carried along. For five or six miles travelled over really
very splendid and well-grassed country; limestone rises occa-
sionally appeared and these were well clothed with saltbush and
bluebush. Mulga scrub and a poorer class of country then set in;
at eleven miles entered into a settled sandy mulga scrub country
with occasional sandhills. From one of these I observed a low
range of hills bearing S. 9° E., distant about twenty-five miles;

64 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

this is possibly Ayers’ Range. Billy, who is now in his native
land, tells me there are ‘“‘ many pretty places there,” and that there
is a trig. station on one of the hills. Continued on until 4°30,
having travelled twenty-one miles, for the most part through flat
mulga scrub country with coarse grass. Billy also tells me that
we shall not meet with any more spinifex, which is indeed joyful
news. Bar. 28°400in., ther. 68° at 5 p.m.

Monday, August 5th.—Camp No. 76. Bar. 29°310in., ther.
42°.—Last night was mild and pleasant, a most agreeable change
from the biting frosts that we have experienced of late. Started
upon a bearing of 8. 68° E. After travelling for six miles through
dense, though exceedingly well-grassed mulga scrubs, we emerged
into more open country, rich in every variety ot pasture. From
the top of a low sandstone ridge that was here met with I obtained
a more extensive view of the eastern horizon than I have had for
along time. North-easterly is a line of hills of considerable height,
though apparently of no great extent. Upon abearing of §. 55° E. I
observe some masses of bare red rock, apparently granite, and I
decided to visit them with the hope of finding some feature of value
and interest; travelled over flat, well-clothed pastoral country,
which is now looking its very best. Bright flowers blossom all
around ; their varied hues and delicate tints present a brilliant and
eyer-varying panorama of splendour. It was a scene specially
attractive to us, so long accustomed to the sombre and irritating
spinifex. In six miles we were close to the rocks, and here the
growth of grass, crowfoot, and other plants was most luxuriant ;
eclipsing all by the brilhance of their blossom was the vetch, a pea
so plentiful in the Musgrave Ranges, and which here grows in
large patches of an acre or two. In color the flower is a bright
carmine, and forms quite a feature in the appearance of the land-
scape. ‘lhe camels while walking on them snatch up huge mouth-
fuls as opportunities offer. Arriving at the rocks I found many
traces of blacks, but no water. Turned south for haif a mile to
examine another mass of bare granite. Before I had time to get
near it Billy, who was on ahead on foot, had found all there was to
find, and that was a fair-sized rock hole containing sufficient for
our night’s requirements, and to replenish the kegs. The camels
have been tied up every night since leaving Erldunda, and were
entitled to a little consideration, so they were let go upon such
feed that it has never been their lot to graze upon since we have
had them. Camped at 3°35, having travelled eighteen miles. Bar.
28°160in., ther. 73° at 5 p.m.

Tuesday, August 6th.—Camp No.77. Bar. 28-175in., ther. 48°.
—Started at 7:45 on a bearing of 8. 83° E. Travelled over well-
grassed flat mulga country for five miles, then turned 8. 65° E.;
and in nine miles upon this bearing struck a small water course
with a few gumtrees on its banks. I noticed that there was a
quantity of soda on the sand in the creek channel, which led me

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 65

to think some water might be in the neighborhood. I therefore
called a halt for half an hour so that a search might be made.
Beetson and myself decided to go up the creek; Fred and Billy
went in the opposite direction. We soon heard Billy calling out,
and we returned to a spot only a few yards down the creek from
where we crossed it, and there was a group of four or five native
wells or springs in the creek. Surrounded as they are by very
splendid pastoral country, this position will some day be of value.
From here I turned upon a bearing of 8. 30° E., and in four
miles struck a large gum creek flowing to the southwards. The
bed was level and sandy, and there being so little drift it was not
easy to decide which way the water flowed I imagine this must
be the Krichauff of Mr. Giles’s journey in 1873. In less than two
miles crossed another and still larger creek, which I imagine would
flow into the other. At the first creek I turned upon a bearing
of S. 56° E., and continued travelling over flat, well-grassed mulga
country till 5 o’clock, when I camped. ‘Travelled twenty-four
miles. Bar. 28°400in., ther. 75° at 5 p.m.

Wednesday, August 7th.—Camp No. 78; S. latitude 25° 57’ 42”.
Bar. 28:450in., ther. 28°; cloudy, calm.—While Fred and Billy
were out after the camels they noticed tolerably fresh camel tracks.
and a man driving them on foot. I imagine they must belong to a
survey party. Started upon a bearing of S. 82° E., and very soon
after noticed a trig. station upon a low scrubby hill, and in five
miles reached its foot. Here it may not be out of place to express
the hope that ere long this valuable work may be extended, and that
these beacons, emblems of accuracy and precision, will be seen upon
the mountain tops to the 129 meridian, and this vast territory
accurately placed upon our maps. I regret not having gone up to
examine the trig. to compare with my latitude of last night, but
it was so early in the day that I was anxious to push on. Passed
on the south side of the trig. hill, between it and some isolated.
rocks or ridges, a little southerly from it. We now entered upon
a tableland country, well clothed with every variety of herbage.
At nine miles from last night’s encampment reached a small sandy
channel running to the southward, in which was a strong water
soakage. Billy tells me it is called Imbunyerra, and that he has
been here before. To avoid certain rough-looking hills I turned
upon a bearing of 8. 60° E. ‘Travelled for five miles over very
rough hilly country, which gave us much trouble and caused many
delays. At last found a leading channel, down which we travelled
for two miles on a general bearing of S. 45° EK. In the sandy
channel of a small creek Billy found some water, and though it was
still early I turned out, for the camels want water. ‘Travelled
sixteen miles. Bar. 28-475in., ther. 75° at 5 p.m.

Thursday, August 8th.—Camp No. 79. Bar. 28°475in., ther.
36.—I found such a multitude of duties requiring immediate atten-
tion that a start was not made till noon. Started upon a bearing

E

66 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

of §. 55° E., which just took us clear of some low bluff hills. In
three miles turned S. 65° E., and at once entered into the thickest
mulga scrub that I have ever met with. This, with the stony
nature of the ground, made progress slow. Occasionally from a
higher point a peep would be obtained of the country to the north
and southward, but as far as the eye can reach it appears the same.
Appearances are not more deceiving in anything than in judging
of country from a distance. The only real way to find out what it
is like is by going to see. At 4:30 I reached a small flat, which
was traversed by a small sandy channel. Upon either bank, grow-
ing in the wildest luxuriance, was the most beautiful herbage, and
as there seemed to be more stones and scrub on ahead I accepted
it for the night’s bivouac. Travelled fourteen miles. Bar,
28°600in., ther. 69° at 5 p.m.

Friday, August 9th—Camp No. 80. Bar. 28°725in., ther. 35°.
—A very lovely morning. Started at 7:30 on a bearing of S. 60° E.
At eight miles turned S. 50° E., and in eleven miles from last camp
struck a sandy water channel, down which at times tremendous
bodies of water must flow with great violence. Evidence of such
is to be seen in the scooped-out earth and sand, the bended and
broken trees, the piled-up driftwood and debris. This channel
apparently comes a great distance from the westward, and we
having travelled from that direction and not having seen any hills
200ft. high I cannot but wonder where the great fall can be that
gives the water so fierce an impetus. This little mulga channel
soon swelled out into a broad sandy creek bed, in which were
several little pools of water. Some few gumtrees also appear as
we follow it down, but these though nearly all young are not of
very vigorous growth. Continuing down the creek on a bearing of
S. 80° EK. for three or four miles it is joined by another creek
coming from the northward. From the junction it takes a more
southerly course. I now left the creek and stood upon a bearing
of S. 45° E., travelling over stony, scrubby, undulating country for
five miles, and to avoid some awkward-looking, scrubby hills I
turned on a bearing of 90° and in three miles reached a small
hollow where there was a little feed for the camels, which they
were turned out upon for an hour or two, and then made fast for
the night. Travelled twenty-two miles, for the most part over poor
and scrubby country. Bar. 29°125in., ther. 62° at 5 p.m.

Saturday, August 10th—Camp No. 81. Bar. 29°175in., ther.
24°.—Calm, bright, beautiful morning. Started away at 7°30 on a
bearing of N. 10° E. over stony, scrubby hills. At six miles the
country opened out into a wide valley, through which ran a small
boxtree watercourse. In this a few small pools of water were
noticed. Horse and cattle tracks now became quite numerous,
showing that we were again approaching the settlements. At nine
miles struck a cattle path that took us upon a general bearing of
N. 80° E. At seventeen miles from our last camp a hut and cattle

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 67

yards were observed about a mile south of our course. Here I
turned S. 45° E. to a myall water channel, in which were several
large pools of water. The country now became more stony, and
but for the cattle path being so well trodden and cleared of stones
our progress would have been much slower. At 5 p.m. observed
the buildings of Eringa station, and knowing that camels are often
a cause of annoyance where there are horses I camped just in sight
of the place. There was no feed for the camels, and though they
have had an extra long day I was compelled to tie them up for
the night. Travelled twenty-four miles. Bar. 29°500in., ther.
58° at 5 p.m.

Sunday, August 11th.—Camp No. 81, Eringa Station.—Went
up to the station, and there had the pleasure of meeting Mr. T.
Magarey, the manager of Crown Point Station, on the Finke.
Later in the day I was introduced to Mr. Treloar, the manager,
who offered us a most kindly and hospitable welcome, and sent
down to our camp some of the produce of his garden in the shape
of some of the finest cauliflowers that I have ever seen. Later in
the day Mr. Treloar showed me round the garden, where I saw
cabbages, turnips, and many other vegetables of splendid growth.
We then went for a row upon the water, which is over a mile long
and 30ft. deep. Four thousand head of cattle, besides a number
of horses, find water here; and this is only one of many tine
sheets of water on this run. Mr. Magarey started away for the
Charlotte Waters telegraph station; and the following day Mr.
Gillen, the telegraph master, sent out a special camel messenger
with a note saying that the rations that should have been at
Erldunda were lying there. My intention was to have travelled
down the Stevenson Creek until I reached the telegraph line at the
Macumba Creek; but this intelligence decided me to journey to
the Charlotte, and there place myself in communication with the
directors of the association.

Wednesday, August 14th.—Started away from Eringa Station at.
11 a.m., and travelled along the road towards the Charlotte. The
camels, finding themselves once more upon a well-beaten road,
stepped out with a will. Travelled over the well-known stony
tableland country, now looking very fresh and green, and camped
ata myall watercourse. ‘Travelled fourteen miles.

Thursday, August 15th.—Bar. 29°500in., ther. 33°.—Started at
7°15, and at twelve miles reached the Charlotte Waters telegraph
station, when we received a most cordial welcome from Messrs.
Gillen and Byron. Sent a message to the secretary of the associa-
tion acquainting him of my arrival, asking for instructions as to my
future movements. Took the camels a little way down the creek
and there formed a camp, awaiting dispatches; which arriving in
a few days, I directed the caravan down the telegraph line towards
the terminus of the railway.

68 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

[ Copy. ] Government Geologist’s Office, Adelaide,
November 30th, 1889.

Sir—In accordance with your instructions, I have examined the
specimens of rocks and minerals brought by Mr. Tietkens from
Western Central Australia.

The specimens from Mount Sonder indicate the occurrence of
ferruginous veinstones in clay slates and quartzites, and show that
there is a probability of the occurrence of metallic minerals, in-
cluding gold. The same may be said of Mount Rennie, Laura
Vale, Mount Leisler, Bonython Range, and Basedow Range.

The remainder of the specimens, with the exception of those
from Mount Olga and Ayers’ Rock, which are isolated hills, are
chiefly from tertiary and secondary formations, and the country
represented by them is not likely to contain metallic minerals.

The whole collection is valuable as giving a good idea of the
geology of a part of the interior which hitherto was unknown.

I have, &c.,
H. Y. L. BROWN, Government Geologist.

The Hon. Commissioner Crown Lands, &c., &c., Adelaide.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 69

APPENDICES.

LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED DURING MR. TIETKENS’
EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA, 1889.

By Baron Sir F. von Muetter, F.R.S., &c., and Professor R. Tate,
F.L.S., &c.

[From the transactions of the Royal Society of South Australia, 1890.]

[Read April 1st, 1890.]

Last year Mr. Tietkens was placed in charge of a party by the Central
Australian Exploring and Prospecting Company, Adelaide, to explore the Mac-
donnell Range and the country to the west and south of it. The period of explo-
tation embraced the months of April to August, and the plants which form the
subject of this report were collected by Mr. Tietkens and his assistants during
that time.

As Mr. Tietkens’ map and journal are not yet published, the approximate
position of each locality referred to in this report here follows: —

Proceeding northward from Charlotte Waters the localities are : —

Crown Point, on the River Finke, about forty miles north of Charlotte Waters.
Horse-shoe Bend, twenty miles north of Crown Point. Orraminna, forty miles
south of Alice Springs. Emily Gap (in the Macdonnell Range), eight miles
south of Alice Springs. Burt Plain or the tableland on the north of the Mac-
donnell Range, the scarped front of which constitutes that range. (See East,
Trans. Roy. Soc. 8S. Aust., vol. xii., p. 47, 1889.) Bond Springs, ten miles
a of Alice Springs. Painta Springs, fifteen miles north-west of Alice

prings.

Thence along the Macdonnell Range are :— Mount Sonder, long. 132° 20’, lat.
23° 35’; Mareena Bluff, Mount Razorback, Glens Helen and Farewell being
adjacent thereto. Glen Edith, long. 131° 10’, lat. 25° 50’.

Thence about west to the boundary line with West Australia. Watson Hills,
about midway between Glen Edith and Gill’s Creek, in Clelands Hills, long.
130° 30’, lat. 28° 48’. ‘‘Sandstone Rocks,”’ long. 129° 35’, lat. 23° 50’. Laura
Vale, six miles from Mount Rennie, in long. 129° 15’, lat. 23° 35’. Mount
Leisler, in the Kintore Range, long. 128° 25’, lat. 23° 30’, sixteen miles from
north-east of Lake Macdonald.

lake Macdonald—Thence returning by way of Lake Amadeus to near Charlotte
Waters, there are — Warman Rocks, south-east of Lake Macdonald, long. 128°
54’, lat. 23° 55’. Mount Harris, in Blood’s Range, long. 129° 27’, lat. 24° 40’.
Mount Olga is seventeen miles north of west from Ayers’ Rock, which latter is
in long. 130° 50’, lat. 25° 30’; Mount Conner, long. 131° 30’, lat. 25° 30’.
These island-like elevations are situated about half a degree to the south of Lake
Amadeus. Basedow Range, long. 132° 10’, lat. 25° 5’. Between here and
Charlotte Waters are Erldunda, Goyder’s Springs, Ayers’ Range, and Eringa,
the last thirty miles west of Charlotte Waters.

The collection numbers 250 species, and compares not unfavorably with the
joint results of Giles and Gosse in their several expeditions to this region.
Nevertheless, the whole collection is somewhat disappointing, and adds but
scantily to the records of the Australian flora. Thisis all the more to be regretted
as the season of 1889 was exceptionally favorable, and the part of the region
traversed was a novel one for botanical research. Much of the material has

70 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

been gathered without due discrimination as to flower and fruit, and consequently
much time has been lost in the determination of the species, otherwise we might .
have had a much larger array of species.

The collection is characteristic of the Eremian region, and the high land of
the Macdonnell Range does not seem to possess any other type of vegetation,
though it offers several specific differences, and some few generic, as compared
with the low-level tracts which stretch southward irom its base.

Ihe following species are new to the Australian flora : — Eriostemon argyreus,
n..sp.; Sida podopetala, n. sp.; Calotis latius-cula, n. sp.; Goodenia fascic-
ularis, n. sp.; Ipomea racemigera, n. sp.; Tencrium grandiusculum, n. sp. ;
Eremophila Tietkensii, n. sp. ; and Eriocaulon graphitimum, n. sp.

The following species are additional records to the flora of extra-tropical South
Australia* :—Hybanthus miniatus, F. v. M. Phyllantus minutiflorus, F.v. M.
Extends from Port Darwin to the Upper Victoria river.

Trema cannabina, Lour. An Oriental species, reaching as far south as N.W.
Victoria ; this adds a new genus to the flora.

Crotalaria incana, Linne. An exotic of tropical and subtropical distribution ;
is known throughout the northern half of this continent.

Acacia Bynoeana, Bentham. Is known from the coast region of N.A.

Acacia acradenia, F. v. M. Inhabits the dry zone from Nickol Bay to the
head waters of the Victoria river.

Acacia patens, F. vy. M. Same distribution as the last.

Erechthites lacerata, F. v. M.

Rotala verticillaris, Line. An Oriental species; also known from Sturt’s.
Creek.

Ammannia auriculata, Willdenow. A tropical and sub-tropical species of the
Old World ; is known from the littoral tracts of Queensland.

Kucalyptus setosa, Schauer. Belongs to the littoral tracts of N.A. and Q.

Grevillea Chrysodendron, R. Brown. Confined to the littoral tracts of N.A.,
and tropical W.A., and of Q.

Oldenlandiag alioides, F. v. M. Same distribution as the last.

Halgania integerrima, Endlicher. W.A., south-eastern interior.

Eremophila viscida, Endlicher, W.A., south-eastern interior.

Fuirena glomerata, Lamarck. Belongs to the warm regions of both hemis-
pheres ; for the most part, a littoral species in N.A., Q., and N.S.W. This is
an additional genus to the flora. ©

Fimbristylis acuminata, Vahl. An Oriental species, reaching to Queensland.

DILLENIACEAE.
Hibbertia glaberrima, F. vy. M. Mount Olga
CAPPARIDEAKE.
Cleome viscosa, Linne. Glen Helen; Mount Razorback; eastend of Lake Mac-

donald
Capparis spinosa, Linne. Near Mount Sonder
Capparis Mitchelli, Lindley. Dashwood Creek

CRUCIFERAE.

Erysimum Blennodia, F. v. M. Near Basedow Range and W. of Eringa

Sisymbrium trisectum, F. v. M. Basedow Range; sandhills W. of Erldunda;
W. of Eringa

Stenopetalum nutans, F. vy. M, Bond Springs

* Melaleuca Leucadendron, Linne. which is widely distributed in the northern parts:
of the continent, extending to the Indian Archipelagos and Malayan Peninsula, has been
received from between Eyre’s Creek and Hergott.—F. vy. M.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 71

Menkea spherocarpa, F. vy. M. Between Mount Olga and Ayers’ Rock
Capsella cochlearina, var. ochrantha, F.v.M. Mount Sonder

Lepidium phlebopetalum, F.v. M. Glen Helen; Basedow Range; Erldunda;
W. of Eringa

VIOLACEAE.
Hybanthus miniatus, F.v. M. Gill’s Creek

PITTOSPOREAE.
Pittosporum phillyrzoides, DeCand. W. end of L. Macdonald

DROSERACEAE.

Drosera Burmanni, Vahl. Glen Farewell; Laura Vale
Drosera Indica, Linne. With the last

ELATINEAE.
Bergia perennis, F. v. M. Near Mount Sonder

HYPERICINEAE.
Hypericum Japonicum, Thunberg. Mount Sonder; W. of Macdonnell Range

RUTACEAE.
Eriostemon argyreus, F. vy. M. and Tate. Near Mount Sonder

ZYGOPHYLLEAE.

Zygophyllum fruticulosum, DeCand. Mount Harris
Tribulus terrestris, Linne. Mount Sonder; Ayers’ Rock
Tribulus atrocarpus, F. v. M.

GERANIACEAE.

Erodium cygnorum, Nees. Scrub S.E. of Goyder Springs.
Oxalis corniculata, Linne. Mount Sonder

MALVACEAE.

Lavatera plebeia, Sims. Eringa Station -

Plagianthus glomeratus, Bentham. Lake Macdonald

Sida corrugata, Lindley

Sida inclusa, Bentham. Horseshoe Bend; Warman Rocks

Sida cryphiopetala, F.v. M. Mount Olga

Sida podopetala, F. v. M. and Tate. Glen Helen; Warman Rocks

Abuticolon otocarpum, F.v.M. Glen Helen; Blood’s Range

Abutilon halophilum, F. vy. M. Glen Helen; Laura Vale

Hibiscus microchlaenus, F. v. M. Bond Springs; near Mount Sonder; Laura
Vale :

Hibiscus Pinonianus, Gaudichaud. North shore of Lake Macdonald

Gossypium Sturtii, F. v. M. Orraminna rock-hole; Mount Sonder; near
Gill’s Creek ; Mount Olga

Gossypium australe, F.v. M. Glen Helen; Laura Vale

72 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

STERCULIACEAE.

Macregoria racemigera, F. v. M. W. end of Lake Macdonald

Brachychiton Gregorii, F.v. M. Mareena Bluff

Melhania incana, Heyne

Hannafordia Bissiliii, F.v. M. ‘‘A shrub 2ft. high.” Glen Edith

Commerconia magnifiora, F. v. M. A shrub 8ft. high, Mount Sonder; Mount
Olga

Commerconia Kempeana, F.v. M. Glen Edith; Watson Hills

EUPHORBIACEAE.

Euphorbia erythrantha, F. v. M. Sandhills, east of Lake Macdonald
Euphorbia Drummondii, F.v. M. Mount Razorback; Lake Amadeus
Euphorbia eremophila, Cunn. Emily Gapp

Phyllanthus minutiflorus, F.v. M. Glen Helen

Phyllanthus thesioides, Bentham. Burt Plain

Phyllanthus lacunarius, F. v. M. Waterholes, Macdonnell Range
Phyllanthus trachyspermus, F. v. M. Mount Sonder

URTICACEAE.

Trema cannabina, Lour. Near Mount Sonder
Ficus platyponda, Cunn. Mount Razorback; Glen Helen

CASUARINEAE.
Casuarina Decaisneana, F. v. M. Watson Hills; about Lakes Macdonald and
Amadeus
SAPINDACEAE

Diplopeltis Stuartii, F. v. M. Mount Sonder and vicinity; Mount Connor;
around Lake Macdonald

Dodonaea lanceolata, F. v. M. Dashwood Creek

Dodonaea viscosa, Linne. Mount Sonder; Blood’s Range; Mount Olga; N.
of Ayers Range; W. of Eringa

Dodonaea microzyga, F. v. M. Between Mt. Olga and Ayers Rock ; Erldunda ;
W. of Eringa

FRANKENIACEAE.
Frankenia laevis, Linne. Lakes Macdonald and Amadeus

PORTULACEAE.

Portulaca oleracea, Linne. Mount Razorback
Portulaca filifolia, F. v. M Orraminna rock-hole
Claytonia ptychosperma, F.v. M. Eringa

CARYOPHYLLEAE.
Polycarpaea synandra, F. vy. M. Dashwood Creek

AMARANTACEAE.

Euxolus Mitchelli, F.v. M. Orraminna; Mount Olga

Ptilotus incanus, Poiret. Mount Sonder; Glen Helen

Ptilotus exaltatus, Nees. West of Mount Sonder.

Ftilotus helipteroides, F.v. M. Table-land W. of Eringa

Ptilotus nobilis, F. v. M. Mount Sonder

Ptilotus latifolius, R. Brown. Native well at “ Sandstone Rocks.’
Ptilotus leucocoma, Moquin. Near Mount Sonder.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 73

SALSOLACEAE.

Atriplex vesicarium, Heward. Granite rocks north of Ayers Range
Dysphania simulans, F. v. M. and Tate. Near Mount Sonder
Rhagodia nutans, R. Brown. N. side of Lake Macdonald
Chnopodium rhadinostachyum, F. v. M. Laura Vale
Kochia villosa, Lindley. Lake Macdonald ; Erldunda

var. aphylla. Erldunda
Kochia spongiocarpa, F. v. M. Mount Olga
Bassia sclerolenoides, F. v. M. Plains 8. W. of Erldunda
Salsola Kali, Linne. Common

FICOIDEAE.

Trianthema crystallina, Vahl. W. end of Lake Macdonald

Trianthema pilosa, F. v. M. Mount Sonder; W. side of Lake Amadeus
Molluga hirta, Thunberg. Mount Sonder

Mulluga Cerviana, Seringe. Glen Helen

POLYGONACEAE.
Polygonum plebeium, R. Brown. Mount Razorback

PHYTOLACCEAE.

Gyrostemon ramulosus, Desfont. Glen Edith; west end of Lake Amadeus
Codonocarpus cotinifolius, F. v. M. Glen Helen; Mount Sonder; Dashwood
Creek. A tree 12ft. high

NYCTAGINEAE.

Boerhaavia repanda, Willd. N. shore of Lake Macdonald
Boerhaavia diffusa, Linne. Mount Olga; Bond and Painta Springs

THYMELEAE.
Pimelea microcephala, R. Brown. S. end of Lake Amadeus

LEGUMINOSAE.

Brachysema Chambersi, F. v. M. Laura Vale, and west of Mount Olga

Tsotropis atropurpurea, F. v. M.

Burtonia polyzyga, Bentham

Crotalaria medicaginea, Lamarck. Bond Springs; Mount Sonder; Laura Vale;
Mount Olga

Crotalaria dissitiflora, Bentham. Laura Vale; Gill’s Creek.

Crotolaria incana, Linne. Near Mount Sonder

Lotus australis, Andrews. Mount Sonder; Laura Vale; Mount Olga

Psoralea patens, Lindley. Mount Olga

Indigofera viscosa, Lamarck. Bond Springs; Mount Sonder; ‘‘ Sandstone
Rocks’’; Warman Rocks

Indigofera hirsuta, Linne. Mounts Sonder and Leisler

Indigofera monophylla, DeCand. Laura Vale; Gill’s Creek. A bush lft. to
2ft. high

Indigofera linifolia, Retzius. Laura Vale

Indigofera brevidens, Bentham. Mount Leisler; sandhills E. of Lake Macdonald.

Clianthus Dampieri, Cunn. Erldunda and W. of Eringa.

Glycine clandestina, Wendland. Blood’s Range

Glycine sericea, Bentham. Glen Helen; Gill’s Creek

Swainsonia coronillifolia, Salisb. Scrub S.E. of Goyder’s Springs

74. CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Swainsonia Burkei, F.v. M. Glen Helen

Swainsonia stipularis, F.v.M. Scrub S E. of Goyder’s Springs

Kennedya prorepens, F. v. M. Near Mount Sonder

Erythrina vespertilio, Bentham. Mount Sonder. ‘A tree 30ft. to 40ft. high,
lft. to 2ft. diameter of stem; deciduous, shedding its leaves after seed=-
ing. The wood is exceedingly light, and is used by the natives for shields.
Pod about four inches long.”’

Rhynchosia minima, De Candolle. Mount Sonder; Glen Helen

Vigna lanceolata, Bentham. Paint: Spring; Glen Helen. Roots eaten by
the aboriginals. V.suberecta, Bentham, is the better name of the two.

Cassia Sophera, Linn. Mount Sonder

Cassia pleurocarpa, F.v. M. Glen Helen

Cassia desolata, F. v. M. Mount Leisler; Laura Vale

Cassia phyllodinea, R. Brown. W. end of Lake Amadeus

Petalostylis labicheoides, R. Brown. Mount Sonder; Glen Helen

Acacia Bynoeana, Bentham. W. end of Lake Amadeus

Acacia spondylophylla, F. v. M. Mount Sonder

Acacia strongylophylla, F.v. M. Mount Sonder; W. end of Lake Amadeus ;
Mount Olga

Acacia pyrifolia, De Candolle. Gill’s Creek; Laura Vale; sandhills E. of
Lake Macdonald

Acacia notabilis, F. v. M. Mount Sonder; Gill’s Creek

Acacia salicina, Lindley. Mount Sonder; W. end of Lake Amadeus; table-
land W. of Eringa

Acacia dictyophleba, F. v. M. Sandhills N. of Mount Harris

Acacia patens, F. y. M. Mount Sonder. A shrub dft. to 8ft. high

Acacia acradenia, F. vy. M. Mount Harris

Acacia doratoxylon, Cunningh. Twelve miles 8.E.of Gill’s Creek; Mount
Olga; tableland W. of Eringa

Acacia aneura, F.v. M. W. of Lake Amadeus; tableland W. of Eringa

Acacia cyperophylla, F. v. M. Warman Rocks

Acacia Farnesiana, Willdenow. Mount Sonder

ROSACEAE.
Stylobasium spathulatum, Desfontaines. Hrldunda

SALICARIAE.

Rotala verticillaris. Linne. West of Macdonnell Range
Ammannia multiflora, Roxburgh. Mount Sonder
Ammannia auriculata, Willdenow. Mount Sonder

HALORAGEAE.

Haloragis aspera, Lindley. Mount Sonder
Haloragis Gossei, F.v. M. N. side of Lake Macdonald

MYRTACHAE.

Calycothrix longiflora, F. v. M. Sandhills N. of Mount Harris :

Thryptomene Maisonneuvii, F. v. M. Near Mount Sonder; Glen Hdith ;
Gill’s Creek ; “ nearly all sandhills”’

Baeckea polystemona, F. v. M. Mount Harris

Eucalyptus setosa, Schauer. Laura Vale; Gill’s Creek.

Eucalyptus gamophylla, F. v. M Mount Sonder

Eucalyptus sp. Sandhills E. of Lake Macdonald

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 75

UMBELLIFERAE.

Hydrocotyle trachycarpa, F. v. M. Mount Olga
Didiscus glaucifolius, F. vy. M. Glen Helen; Glen Edith; Mount Olga

LORANTHACEAE.

Loranthus Exocarpi, Behr. Near Mount Sonder
Loranthus gibberulus, Tate. Glen Helen
Loranthus pendulus, Sieber. Glen Edith; Mount Connor; W. of Eringa, &c.

PROTEACEAR.

Grevillea Chrysodendron, R. Brown. Glen Kdith

Grevillea juncifolia, Hooker. Hoseshoe Bend; sandhills S. of Mount Rennie

Greyillea agrifolia, Cunningham. Glen Farewell; Glen Edith, and all along the
Macdonnell Range

Hakea lorea, R. Brown. The variety with' much-divided leaves. Watson
Hills; Lindsay Hills

Hakea purpurea, Hooker. Sandhills between Lakes Amadeus and Macdonald

RUBIACEAE.

Oldenlandia galioides, F. v. M. West of Macdonnell Range
Canthium latifolium, F. v. M.
Pomax umbellata, Sonder. W. end of Lake Amadeus

CUCURBITACEAE.
Melothria Maderaspatana, Cogniaux. Horseshoe Bend; near Mount Sonder;
Mount Olga.
COMPOSITAE.

Brachycome ciliaris, Lessig. Jake Amadeus

Minuria leptophylla, De Candolle. West of Eringa

Calotis plumulifera, F.v. M. West of Kringa

Calotis latiuscula, F. v. M. and Tate. Mount Olga; west of Eringa

Aster Ferresii, F.v. M. Mount Olga

Podocoma cuneifolia, R. Brown. Mount Sonder

Pluchea Eyrea, F. v. M. Glen Helen

Pterigeron liatroides, Bentham. Laura Vale

Polycalymma Stuartii, F. v. M. andSonder. West of Eringa

Bidens bipinnata, Linne. Mount Sonder

Centipeda orbicularis, Loureiro. Mount Sonder; S.E. corner of Lake Mac-

donald

Glossogyne tenuifolia, Cassini. Mount Sonder

Angianthus strictus, Bentham. Near Charlotte Waters

Gnaphalium luteo-album, Linne, Painta Spring

Senecio Gregorii, F. v. M. Mount Sonder

Erechthites lacerata, F. v. M. Glen Farewell; Basedow Range

“‘Our plants agree in every respect with the one gathered by me in 1851

near Elder’s Range, and described soon subsequently in the Linnaea.
It seems specifically distinct from the genuine E. arguta. In some
respects it approaches Senecio ramosissimus and 8. odoratus; Drum-
mond’s plant, 328, referred by Bentham to the former species,
belongs, however, to S. leucoglossus.’”’ F. vy. M.

Helichrysum Cassinianum, Gaudichaud. Erldunda; Eringa.

Helichrysum Lawrencella, F.v. M. West of Eringa.

76 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Helichrysum semifertile, F. v. M. Granite rocks, N. of Ayers Range; west
of Eringa.

Helichrysum lucidum, Henckel. South shore of Lake Macdonald

Helipterum Fitzgibboni, F. v. M. West of Eringa

CAMPANULACEAE.

Isotoma petraea, F.v.M. Crown Point; Glen Edith ; Mount Olga
Wahlenbergia gracilis, De Cand. Mount Olga; Basedow Range

GOODENIACHAE.

Leschenaultia striata, F.v. M. Leaves often flat towards the base; fruit about
1din. long, very narrow; seeds prismatic-cubic, nearly one-tenth of an
inch long, brownish outside, somewhat fringy-papillular at the margin.
Mount Olga

Nelleya connata, F. v. M. Laura Vale; Warman Rocks

Goodenia grandiflora, Sims. Dashwood Creek

Goodenia fascicularis, F. v. M. and Tate. Basedow Range

Calogyne Berardiana, F. v. M. West of Eringa

Scaevola ovalifolia, R. Brown. Mount Sonder. A variety with blue flowers
and verrucular-rough fruits

JASMINEAE.

Jasminum lineare, R. Brown. Bond Spring ; Mount Sonder
Jasminum calcareum, F. v. M. Mount Sonder

ASCLEPIADEARE.

Cynanchum floribundum, R. Brown. Emily Gap; Glen Helen; Watson Hills
Daemia Kempeana, F. v. M. Mount Sonder; Laura Vale; Warman Rocks
Marsdenia Leichardtii, F.v. M. Mareena Bluff

CONVOLVULACEAE.

Ipomcea Muelleri, Bentham. Horseshoe Bend; Bond Spring; Mount Sonder;
Glen Helen

Tpomcea racemigera, F. v. M. and Tate. Glen Helen

Convolvulus erubescens, Sims. Mount Olga

Evolvulus linifolius, Linne. Glen Helen; Mount Olga

SOLANACEAE.

Solanum ferocissimum, Lindley. Bond Spring ; Laura Vale

Solanum Sturtianum, F.v. M. The prickly variety. West end of Lake Mac-
donald

Solanum orbiculatum, Dunal. Mount Sonder

Solanum ellipticum, R. Brown. A variety with narrower leaves. Mount
Sonder; Lakes Macdonald and Amadeus; granite rocks N. of Ayers
Range; Mount Connor Datura Leichardtii, F. v. M. Mount Sonder

Nicotiana suaveolens, Lehmann. Mount Sonder; Glen Edith; Gill’s Creek;
Laura Vale

Duboisia Hopwoodi, F. v. M. Glen Edith; tableland west of Eringa Station.
“« Shrub 8ft. to 10ft. high; foliage thick, very green, and fresh-looking ;
fatal to camels”

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 11

SCROPHULARINAE.

Buechnera linearis, R. Brown. Near Mount Sonder. Bentham already

doubted the mutual specific distinctness of B. urticifolia, B. linearis, B.
tenella, B. grandis, and B. ramosissima. Recently Schumann (Flora von
Kaiser Wilhelm’s Land, 117) proposed to unite them under the name B.
urticifolia ; but that appellation becomes particularly misleading when
applied to the whole complex of forms, because even the typical plant,
delineated by Bauer (Endl. Iconogr., 78) shows no leaves which could
be compared to those of a nettle. Far apter among R. Brown’s specific
designations would be that of B. gracilis as collective, unless the B.
Browniana (Schinz in den Verhandl. des Bot. Ver. vy. Brandenb. xxi.,
194) just described from 8.W. Africa, should prove conspecific with the
Australian plant, as it would seem from the notes offered, in which
case the name would be very eligible also tor the species established
by R. Brown. The name Buechnera seems first to have been correctly
written by Murray in the 138th edition of Linnaeus’ Syst. Veg. (1774) ;
the genus was dedicated to the celebrated physician Andreas Elias
Buechner, F.R.S., who was president of the Acad. Ces. Leop. Carol.
at Linnaeus’ time, and who published, among other works, some on

Materia Medica.

Stemodia viscosa, Roxburgh. A variety with narrow leaves. Mount Sonder

BIGNONIACEKAE.

Tecoma australis, R. Brown. A starved variety with minute leaves. Flowers
and fruits are, however, absent. ‘‘A creeper hanging 30it. from the

rocks.”’ Mount Sonder; Gill’s Creek.

PEDALINAE.
Josephinia Eugeniae, F. y. M. Watson Hills.

ACANTHACEAE.

Justicia procumbens, Linne. Orraminna; Mount Sonder; Mount Connor;

W. of Hringa.
LABIATAE.
Plectranthus parviflorus, Henckel. Mount Sonder; Mount Olga
Prostanthera striatiflora, F. v. M. Mount Sonder; Glen Edith

Prostanthera Wilkieana, F. v. M. Mount Sonder; ‘‘ Sandstone Rocks”’
Teucrium racemosum, R. Brown. Mount Sonder

Teucrium grandiusculum, F. y. M. and Tate. Watson Hills; Gill’s Creek

VERBENACEAE.

Spartothamnus teucriiflorus, F. v. M. Bond Spring; Glen Helen; about

Lake Macdonald
Dicrastylis ochrotricha, F. v. M. Laura Vale
Dicrastylis Gilesii, F. v. M. Mount Connor
Clerodendron floribundum, R. Brown. Watson Hills; Laura Vale

MYOPORINAE.

Eremophila Tietkensii, F. v. M. and Tate. Mount Sonder; Laura Vale
Eremophila Bowmanni, F. v. M. Mount Olga
Eremophila Mitchelli, Bentham. Plains S. W. of Erldunda

78 CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Eremophila Paisleyi, F. v. M. The broad-leaved form, the ovulary beset with
longer hairlets than usual. Plains 8.W. of Erldunda; W. end of Lake
Amadeus

Eremophila Freelingii, F. v. M.

Eremophila Latrobei, F. vy. M. Laura Vale; Warman Rocks

Eremophila Macdonnellii, F. v. M. Samphire-swamps

Eremophila viscida, Endlicher. Between Mount Connor and Basedow Range.
Endlicher gave the description from a specimen in an only commencing
state of flowering. From one out of the Botanic Museum of Vienna
the lithographic plate in the ‘‘ Myoporinous Plants” was furnished.
The example now obtained shows the flowers well developed; thus the
corolla is rather above an inch long

Eremophila Gilesii, F. v. M. Warman Rocks

Eremophila maculata, F.v. M.; var. West end of Lake Amadeus; sandhills
N. of Mount Harris

ASPERIFOLIAE.

Pollichia Zeilanica, F. v. M. Mount Sonder; Emily Gap. ‘‘ Grows on all
sandhills; camels are very fond of it.”’

Heliotropium asperrimum, R. Brown. Laura Vale; Mount Olga

Heliotropium ovalifolium, Forskael. S. side of Lake Macdonald

Heliotropium tenuifolium, R. Brown. Mount Sonder; Mount Leisler: Ayers’
Rock ; Painta Spring

Heliotropium fasciculatum, R. Brown. Sandhills about Lake Macdonald

Halgania integerrima, Endlicher. A variety larger in all its parts than the -
typic plant. Mount Harris

Cynoglossum Drummondii, Bentham

CYCADEAE.
Encephalartos Macdonelli, F. v. M. Painta Spring

LILLACKA.

Wurmbsea dioica, F. v. M. Glen Edith; Gill’s Creek; Laura Vale; Warman
Rocks; Mount Olga
Xerotes leucocephala, R. Brown. Sandhills, Gill’s Creek; Laura Vale

COMMELINEAE.
Commelina ensifolia, R. Brown. Glen Helen

FLUVIALES.
Potamageton sp. West of Macdonnell Range

ERIOCAULEAE.
Eriocaulon graphitimum, F. v. M. and Tate. West end of Macdonnell Range

CYPERACEAE.

Cyperus difformis, Linne. Glen Helen

Cyperus fulvus, R. Brown. Glen Helen

Fimbristylis communis, Kunth. Gill’s Creek

Fimbristylis acuminata, Vahl. W. end of Macdonnell Range
Fuirena glomerata, Lamarck. W. end of Macdonnell Range

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 79

GRAMINEAE.

Panicum decompositum, R. Brown. Glen Helen
Andropogon bombycinus, R. Brown. Mount Razorback
Pappophorum commune, F. v. M. Ayers’ Rock
Sporobolus actinocladus, F. v. M. Glen Helen
. Danthonia bipartita, F. v. M. A variety with often only one fertile flower in
the spikelet
Eleusine cruciata, Lamarck. S. shore of Lake Macdonald ; Mount Conner
Eragrostis diandra, R. Brown. Glen Helen

RHIZOSPERMAE.
Marsilea quadrivalvis, Linne. Mount Sonder

FILICES.

Ophioglossum vulgatum, C. Bauhin. Plains 8.W. of Erldunda

Cheilanthes vellea, F. v. M. Mount Sonder

Cheilanthes tenuifolia, Swartz. Bond Spring; Mount Sonder; Glen Helen;
Laura Vale; Mount Leisler; Mount Olga

Grammitis rutaefolia, R. Brown. Mount Connor

DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW SPECIES.

By Baron Sir F. von Mvurirr and Professor R. Tarte.
ERIosTtEMON ARGYREUS, F. y. M. and Tate.

Very lepidote all over, with narrow or elliptic-lanceolar leaves, but gathered
without any flowers or fruits. /.llied to E. anceps as far as foliage is concerned.
Central Australia.

Spa poporeraa, F. y. M. and Tate.

Extensively bearing a close but short indumentum; leaves rather small, on
short petioles, from orbicular to lanceolar-ovate, irregularly denticulated except
towards the base; stipules linear-filiform, early deciduous; penduncles mostly
axillary and solitary, articuiated near the flower, as long as the latter; calyx
comparatively large, its lobes deltoid, shorter than the tube or nearly as long;
the latter semiovate or finally almost semiglobular, faintly many-streaked ;
petals yellow, nearly equilateral, by about one-third longer than the calyx,
slightly bilobed, the upper half much dilated, the lower half cuneated, and to
wards the base densely ciliolated ; staminal tube short; styles numerous, only
connate near the base; ovularies much beset with very short hairlets, con-
nected into a much depressed mass, and this surrounded by a conspicuous,
somewhat crenulated disk. Central Australia.

This plant has the aspect of an Abutilon, but its ovularies are uniovulate.
The width of the expanded flowers is somewhat more than an inch. The form
of the petals is rather exceptional in the genus, they being somewhat suddenly
contracted into the long, almost stalk-like basil portion.

This species differs trom 8. cleisocalyx in broader and pointed leaves, in longer
peduncles, and in organization of the flowers, though S. cleisocalyx may be
dimorphous and is known to us as yet in the clandestinely flowering state only ;
the fruits of the two may also be different. From S. platycalyx our new plant
is separated by narrower leaves, by the calyces being not provided with very
prominent ridglets, and further by the petals emerging beyond the calyx.

80 _ CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

Cauotis LATIuscuLA, F. v. M. and Tate.

Erect, rather robust, beset with short scattered hairlets; leaves comparatively
large, those of the branches simply sessile or with broad base somewhat clasping,
from cuneate to elliptic lanceolar, flat, indented towards the summit or quite
entire; headlets of flowers arranged in almost corymbous panicles, on slender
peduncles: involucral bracts nearly lanceloar; floral ray yellow ; solid portion
of fruit almost broader than long; spinules generally nine to ten, beyond the
base disconnected, few much shortened, the others about as long as the seed-
bearing portion of the fruit or somewhat longer. Central Australia.

This plant has also been gathered near the Finke river by the Rev. H. Kempe.
The leaves are in form similiar to those of C. cymbacantha, while the fruits are
much like those of C. lappulacea, but the headlets and leaves are much larger.

IPpoMEA RACEMIGERA, F. v. M. and Tate.

Imperfectly beset with short hairlets; leaves small, on rather long stalks,
cordate, from the conspicuously bilobed lower portion gradually narrowed into
an acute apex, without any incisions or denticles, on the surface nearly glabrous;
racemes as long as the leaves or longer with several flowers; pedicels much
shorter than the calyx; outer sepals almost cordate towards the base, gradually
acuminated ; corolla small, hardly halt exserted ; stamens three times shorter
than the corolla ; style short; ovulary glabrous. Glen Helen.

Branches slightly verrucular-rough. Leaves on the only and fragmentary
specimen available, 13in. long. Racemes possibly in amply developed in-
florescences cymously arranged. Corolla white. Fruit unknown.

This is nearest I. chrysides, but that plant has a cymous inflorescence, blunt
sepals and a yellow corolla; the fruit of the two may also be different. In
aspect the plant is also not unlike Hewettia bicolor.

GooDENIA FASCICULARIS, F. v. M. and Tate.

Dwarf, herbaceous, depressed, stoloniferous, almost glabrous; radical leaves
linear or cuneate-lanceolar, often somewhat indented ; stem-leaves quite linear,
entire, the uppermost frequently fasciculated ; flowers axillary and terminal,
solitary, rather small; peduncles about twice as long as the flowers, bractless ;
lobes of the calyx very narrow, about as long as its tube ; corolla yellow, beset
as well as the calyx with appressed hairlets outside, all the lobes almost equally
bilobed, the two upper outward scariously appendiculated ; style much shorter
than the corolla, bearing hairlets at and towards the summit; stigma-cover
much broader than long; fruit ovate-globular, only its summit emerging ;
seeds surrounded by a conspicuous membrane. Buasedow Range.

Near G. heteromera, G. filiformis, and G. O’ Donellii.

TEUCRIUM GRANDIUscULUM, F.v. M. and Tate.

Beset with spreading, very short, somewhat glandular hairlets; upper leaves
sessile, flat, equally green on both sides, from rhomboid to cuneate-ovate, entire
towards the base, thence serrated; floral leaves similar in form, but smaller
and crowded; flowers all axillary, solitary, on short stalklets, much exceeding
the floral leaves; lobes of the calyx fully as long as the tube or even some-
what longer, semilanceolar, pointed; corolla rather large, white, outside im-
perfectly beset with minute hairlets, its middle lobe hardly double as long as.
the adjacent lobes, about twice as long as broad; stamens and style nearly
equalling the corolla in length; fruitlets almost ellipsoid, upwards slightly
beset with hairlets. Central Australia.

Only the upper part of the plant seen. Leaves thus measuring lin. and
gradually less in length. Corolla usually about two-thirds of an inch long, the
upper lobes almost as large as the lateral lobes. Fruitlets nearly one-eighth of
an inch long.

The plant when out of blooming has the aspect of a Scaevola. The flowers
are larger than those of any other Australian species.

EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 81

EREMOPHILA TiETKENSTI, F. v. M. and Tate.

Branchlets robust; leaves rather large, grevish from an extremely short
vestiture, elongate or narrow-lanceolar, entire but somewhat flexuous, gradually
narrowed to the apex, slightly decurrent into the rather conspicuous petiole ;
flowers axillary, solitary; pedicel about as long as the calyx, thickened upwards ;
segments of the calyx lanceolar, much narrowed towards the base, overlapping
at the margin, nearly glabrous, soon scarious, reticulate-venular, somewhat
dotted ; style glabrous ; ovulary imperfectly beset with glandular very minute
hairlets, ovate-globular, but the summit conically contracted; ovules four in
each cell. Central Australia.

Leaves from two to three inches long, half to two-thirds of an inch broad,
without any lustre; thinly keeled; the lateral venules few and faint or con-
cealed. Calyx-segments nearly two-thirds of an inch long. Corolla and fruit
unknown. Allied to E. Clarkei, E. Oldfieldii, and E. graciliflora, but not com-
binable with any of them.

CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN

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14

|
25° = T
|
|

— 2

MAP

SHEWING ROUTE OF
The Central Australian Exploring and
Prospecting Association Expedition

M! Lyell Brown

131° 132

| (Cheesy

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on

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UNDER COMMAND OF |
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129° 130° ii 132°

133°

SUNYEYOR GENERAL'S OFFICE, ADELAIDE, Freier 5. ramtee. Phelichag Aor

« Bond Springa

* ALICE/SPRINCS

© Qambers Par

CHARLOTTE WATERS o

134°

—i1K8

25"

26°

mane © 8 N GC ~m © fu TT £. | GEOLOGICAL SKETCH

SHOWING {

}

SECTION OF COUNTRY WESTWARD FROM MT. SONDER IN THE MACDONNELL RANGES

E AND |
FROM ERLDUNDA WESTWARD TO LAKE MACDONALD.

Mt. Leisler , e.
: Mareena Bluff t. Sonder
WwW Lake Macdonald Nhe ues Bes , *

=

REFERENCE :

Recent Post Tertiary and Tertiary.
Mesozoic (Cretaceous/ Artesian Water- bearing Rocks.
Paleozoic Devonian (?).

Metamorphic Metal- bearing Rocks.

Granite, Metal- bearing.

Compiled by H. Y. L. Brown, F.@.8., Government Geologist, from Rock Specimens

R E i U R N R O U th E A collected by W. H. Tietkens. Positions of Formations approximate only, and may

require to be extended when fuller information is obtained.
|

{
|

Exldunda Range E

W Lake Macdonald Bonython Range Warman Rocks A ae Pine Rock Mt. fuaanereachinle

Mt. Olga iz
Lake Amadeus a 3 Ayers Rock Mt. Conner Kernot Range Basedow Range

Horizontal Scale—1o miles to 1 Inch.

Vertical Scale—4,oooft. to 1 Inch. 5 i | SpypiiMad,

Lithographed by C.E.BRISTOW,Govermnent Printer. Adelaide.

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