SOURCES
OF TIN-:-
HISTORY OF OREGON.
VOLUME I, NUMBER I,
Contributions of the Department of Economics and History
of the
University of Oregon. F. G. YOUNG, Editor.
Journal of Hedorem Crawford.
An account of his trip across the plains with the Oregon Pioneers of 1842.
A few sets of accounts found in connection with the Journal are added.
EUGENE.
STAR JOB OFFICE.
1897.
o'H-
EDITORIAL NOTES.
GENERAL : —
The printing and distribution of the primary sources of the history of the Pacific Northwest is calculated to promote the cause of the history in Oregon and throughout our country in several distinct and important directions.
Pioneers and their descendants will through this means be brought to an adequate appreciation of much valuable material not yet utilized. This will be preserved and rendered available to future generations of students.
The achievement of an intrepid, resolute, and capable people — the Oregon pioneers — will thus come to be truly and duly recog- nized.
A remarkable period of our country's expansion, one in which the national spirit was at its best, will be made instructive.
The youth of the Pacific Northwest must now draw his first historical inspiration from the exploits, struggles, and state- - building of men on the far away Atlantic seaboarc}^, yet his own home section of the common country was the scene of deeds as heroic and effective, animated by motives even more youthful. The whole course of development from discovery and exploration to the establishment of a self-centered republic was accomplished here as well as there and independently. The scale was in min- iature yet the results were substantial and far-reaching as they involved the destiny of the whole Coast and made us a truly con- tinental nation facing both oceans.
These sources made accessible to the schools of the states of the Pacific Northwest will constitute a wealth of resources for historical parallels between the development of the east and the far west. The possibilities of historical instruction in American history in these schools will thus be revolutionized.
SPECIAL: —
This edition of this journal is not in popular form; it is pri- marily intended for the historical student. The original copy is followed with verbal nnd literal exactness. The editor is under obligations to Mr. J. M. Crawford of Dayton, Yamhill county, Oregon, and Mrs. E. Stevens of Oregon City, Oregon, for the use of the original copy and for permission to contribute it to the searchers for original and indubitable historical evidence. The genuine historical student will have the tenderest appreciation of the adverse circumstances under which this record was made and be profoundly grateful that it was allowed to pass out of the family circle in this form for his use.
BIOGRAPHICAL NOTE.
Crawford, the author of this journal, was a native of central New York. On reaching the years of manhood he nat- urally as A representative American and as a young man of ener- uv ami ability, hut without capital, was casting about for a field of larger opportunities than his home community afforded.
Mr. Crawford's family knew well Dr. Elijah White who came to Oregon first in 1837. In the spring of 1842 Dr. White was back in New York arranging to return to Oregon as a sub- Indian agent. Mr. Crawford resolved to accompany him. His diary is the only journal record of the trip of this first consider- able band of pioneers to cross the plains.
Mr. < 'rawford reached Oregon when he was twenty-three years of age. He married Miss Adeline Brown who had come to Ore- ir<>n in the same party with him. He taught the Methodist Mis- sion school one year and then for several years was mainly en- gaged in hauling goods around the Willamette Falls with an ox In 1855 he moved to a farm in Yamhill county which he made his home while not engaged in public life.
He was a member of the Legislature of the Provisional Gov- ernment of Oregon from 1847 to 1849. In 1860 he was elected t«> the State Legislature. He seemed to have been held in high estimation by both U. S. Senators from Oregon, Baker and Nes- nrilli, as he was called to Washington to receive instructions pertaining to taking charge of the emigration escort to make trips across the plains. He conducted the expeditions of 1861, '62 and '63. He was practically in control of the first and, with rank !• tain in the army, had command of the two succeeding. He was successful in shielding these emigrants from the outra- ges that those of preceding years had been suffering, as well as in ling a surplus into the treasury at the end of each year. In 1864 Mr. Crawford was appointed collector of internal revenue for Oregon. His duties in this^ifrvTrtved at once the sub- jecting of the people to an unaccustomed form of taxation and •;i; in order of a new system for raising revenue. The difficulties of a trying position were much enhanced by th«- di-tanee from the source, of instructions. He administered In ties of this office five years. From 1871 to 1875 he was appraiser of customs at Portland. He lived the life of an active • i in. in that time on until his death in 1891 and during thi- I . '1 first gained a competency.
-nian, of Doc. 27, 1891, in commenting on
hi- life says, "he wa- known to every person in Oregon during many
>ered latterly by all who retained recollections
Medorem Crawford was a man to fix
the imprr^ «»f his imlh idnality and character upon any commn- * * * &• a pioneer he was among the most intelli- •• 'tie. :ind as a State-builder, he bore a •
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March 17, 1842, Thursday-Left Havana 10 o'clock A. M. Left Salubria J past 12 o'clock on hoard Steam Boat Chemung for Geneva, landed near 5 o'clock P. M. put up at the Washing- ton Temperance house. Left for Rochester at £ past 11, E. ar- rived at }, past 4 in M., distance f>() miles, put up at the Eagle very much fatigued having had no rest last night. Left for Buf- falo i past 8 M., arrd. | past 9 E., traviled hy Rail road & Stage.
Saturday, March 19, find ourselves very sore & much fatigued. Luke full of ice no chance to get away to day. Steam Boat Gen. Scot leaves a port about 12 miles down the Lake hut we think it not advisable to go to it without a certainty of getting a passage.
The weather lias been verry tine since we started, roads very bad from Batavia to this place, distance 39 miles.
Sunday March 20, no prospect of getting away from this pi. uncertain with regard to the best rout. Sunday forenoon, at- tended church, in the evening heard a lecture from Doct. White on the Oregon subject.
Monday 21, heavy east & north-east wind and considerable snow, cold windy stormy night.
Tuesday 22d, morning stormy, north-east wind, 2 or 3 inch, snow, very unpleasant indeed. Left Buffalo at 11 o'clock in the morning in a lumber waggon on our way to the Steam Boat. Ar- rived at Cattaragus Creek ^ past 10 evening, roads in a most hor- rible condition distance from Buffalo 30 miles. Left for Erie on board Steam Boat Erie at J.past 10 o'clock.
Wednesday 23d', morning, arrived after a very pleasant ride at 7 o'clock evening, put up at the American Hotel in Erie good accommodations.
Erie is a very pleasat and interesting place, has a fine harbor, is well laid out and has a public square and most splendid buildings. Left Erie for Pittsburgh Thursday, 24th, morning f past 11 o'clock. Friday morning 7 o'clock stoped to break fast at George- town 52 miles from Erie. Traviled the last 15 miles in a covered waggon, roads quite bad. Called at Mercer a, pleasant village 66 miles south of Erie, wether cloudy & freqent showers'but warm. Saturday 26, morning, stoped for breakfast 12 miles from Pitts- burgh, rode all night in a covered waggon, bad roads, arrived at Pittsburgh on Saturday 1 o'clock P. M., almost tiered to death having had no rest since we left Erie. Do not like the looks of Pittsburgh at all. The city is badly laid out, streets are narrow :ui<l dirty and the houses all smoked with coal. Left Pittsburgh <»n board S. B. West-point for Cincinnati at \ past 7 evening.
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Waked up in the morning some rested found ourselves in Virginia. Called at Wheeling 3 hours on Sunday morning, March 27. Wheeling has the appearance of a business place but like Pittsburgh its buildings are covered with the smoke of Pit coal. Called at Marietta a few minutes; verry pretty place. Monday 28 March, nothing of particular interest has occurred today. The weather is remarkable fine, the forest trees along the river are covered with green leaves and the peach trees all in blossom. Passed the state line between Virginia & Kentucky aliout noon verry little of the country to be seen from the river a range of hills bordering on each side only an occasional farm on either side between the river and the hill.1 Passed several rafts today and met steamboats. Landed and reed. 2 passengers at Portsmouth one of the most splendid villages I ever saw at the termination of the Ohio Canal.
Arrived at Cincinnati about midnight Left the boat at 6* o'clock on Tuesday morning. Took breakfast nt a tavern, went about the city, found Col. John White, had a verry polite invita- tion to stop at his house while we stayed in the City accepted the invitation & stayed to dinner after dinner Col. went round the City and introduced us to some of the first men of the City. We were very kindly treated indeed & had many warm invitations to call and stay the evening. March 28 the weather is uncom- fortable warm.
Saturday April 2, Left Cincinnati for St. Louis £ past 3 o'clock P. M. about 5 o'clock we had a fair view of Gen. Wm. H. Harrison's residence and tomb the scene was a most beautiful one, the house in which he lived is verry pleasantly situated some 30 rods from the river, it is surrounded with green trees &c. The tomb is on the top of a beautiful knoll surrounded by a very handsome fence containing probably about 6 or 8 acres. The country along the river particularly on the Ohio side is a beautiful and apparently level & rich section.
Spent the Sabbath in Louisville, Kentucky. Took our horses ashore and rode back in the country & was verry much pleased with the fine dwellings, gardens, & farms &c. Attended the Presbyterian Church in the afternoon & the Methodist in the evening — both were interesting.
Monday morning quite unwell taken with a dinerea eat no breakfast & very little dinner, took some B^fifclndy <fe sugar and IOOO felt better. Left Louisville near 5 o'clock F*. M. passed over the fulls in safty stopt at New Albany Indiana small but pleas- ant place. Tuesday called at several small places along the river tli" most delightful weather I ever saw.
Wednesday April 6, rainy & cloudy passed Cnro at mouth of the Ohio entered the Mississippi at 7 o'clock A. M. Cairo is a miserable looking place, said to be unhealthy.
A severe thunder storm after night Boat obliged to stop on account of dnrknosH, started some time before morning, ran on a snag and injured the wheel some, soon repd. & started again Thursday fine morning after the storm — a verry warm sun.
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Arrived at St. Louis ^ past 4 P. M. putup at the St. Louis Exchange. Friday & Ssturday spent my time riding about the city & visiting my fellow passengers on board the Neptune especially Misses Wells & Marshall.
Sunday April 10, verry hot indeed rode out to the Prairie Ho- tel parted with Mr. Beebe of New York who I first met at Pitts- burgh.
Monday spent this day in a most agreeable manner with Mr. Suhlett who has spent several years in the mountains.
Spent ten days here in St. Louis verry agreeably up to Mon- day, April 18. Esqr. Crocker, Alex. & John started for Independ- ence by land taking 6 mules & 3 horses. Reed a letter this morning from Father & Sister. After having spent 2 weeks in St. Louis and having formed several verry agreeable acquaintan- ces we left Thursday 21 April at 8 o'clock evening for Independ- ence on S. B. Rowcna. Friday extremely hot. Called at Jeffer- son City? o'clock evening.
April 24, Sunday morning 10 o'clock cannot get over the bar. Heavy rain in the evening. Monday morning 9 o'clock got over the bar; a verry cold wind. Called at Lexington 2 hours at noon 8 couple of Gentlemen and Ladies & band of music came on bord for a pleasure party. Spent the evening very pleasantly in con- versation and dancing with the Ladies. Tuesday morning very fine weather. Called at Liberty landing 4 hours visited the Ar- senal at Liberty village 3 miles from the river. 16 couple of Gent and Ladies came on board. Left the S. boat at 2 o'clock arr'd at Independence at 3 found the Boys had arrived the night before. On Friday April 29, we pitched our tent and turned our animals out in the Prairie about 6 miles from Independence we got our supper and slept in the tent. Saturday we got out all our things from the village. Sunday May first we spent all this day in the camp.
May 2d a meeting of all who are hound to Oregon was called to decide whether to wait for a company from Platt; Decided to wait 12 day*. 4th Left camp 10 o'clock M. stoped at 2 o'clock to dinner. Started at 4 o'clock, E. stoped at 6 o'clock pitched our tent in a fine spot traveed 12 miles today, had a heavy frost last night ruined most of the corn and fruit in this country.
6. Rode to Independence from camp 18 M. 7, Returned, 3 more waggons came to camp. May 8, Sunday went to Shawnee meeting, returned by way of Mission. 10 Uncommon dry an hot, no rain since we came to camp. 12, went to Independence, a fine shower. 14, Doctor came to camp with 36 Cattle. 16 Left camp at 1 o'clock E. drove 15 mi. and camped at 7 o'c. E. on the Santafe rout, found water pleanty, wood & pasture scarce.
In our company were 16 waggons & 105 persons including children & 51 men over 18 years of age. 17. Started at 9 o'c. M. detained £ hour by losing the trail. Left the Santa Fee trail at 2 o'c and camped at ^ past 3 evening, weather verry warm. Traviled about 12 miles. 1 more wagon and 3 men came on. 18. A violent rain this morning much excitement in camp
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about Dogs: 22 dogs shot, stoped mining 9 o'c.
May 18, Started at 1 o'clock E. without a track endeavoring to rind the right trail. Camped on the right trail at 7 o'c. E. TraviU'diO miles.
19. 'A severe rain this morning; laid out and got verry wet. Started at i past 9 M. detained by crossing 2 creeks stoped at 2 E. traviled 5 miles.
20. Verry heavy rain last night & cloudy this morning. Moved camp about one mile. All gone ahead except 3 wagons who are detained with a sick child.
21. Another rainy nfght & cloudy cold & uncomfortable morning. Mrs. Lancaster's only child a daughter 16 months old died 10 o'clock M the Doctor called the disease symptomatick fever accompanied with worms. Continues to rain moderately. May 21. After burying the child we started and drove 6 miles.
22d Sunday started at 7 o'clock M. and drove 25 miles over a beautiful country; camped in good season. 23d Some rain last night & cloudy cool morning. Started at 9 o'clock M. drove to the Kansas river and crossed with safty, Distance 10 miles. 24. Stoped today to repair waggons.
25. Started at 4 o'clock E. drove 6 miles camped at 7 o'clock E. part of the company still ahead. 26. Started at 7 o'clock M. considerable rain, overtook company at 2 o'clock, took dinner and all started together. Camped on Vermillion Creek at 7 o'clock E. traviled 18 miles.
May 27. Mrs. Lancaster verry sick & unable totravil. Part of the company unwilling to wait & went on, much dissatisfaction in the camp. Capt. White rode on and found the company about 8 miles ahead they agreed to wait untill Sunday morning for Mr. Lancaster. The weather is verry fine and the country around delightful.
28. Rainv morning, Mrs. Lancaster some better. Started at ^ past 9 oc. M. Cleared off warm, arrived at camp J p. 4 o'clock E. traviled 8 miles, weather verry hot.
29. Sunday Mrs. Lancaster is verry low, much dissatisfaction in the camp, some want to go on and some want to stay. 3 wagons went on 2 miles, a very warm day. 30 All the wagon? ex- cept Mr. Lancaster started at | past 6 o'clock M. cool wind. 30th May Mr. Lancaster concluded to take his wife back. Capt. White and others accompany him to the K. river. Stoped to dinnor H hours. Camped at \ past 6 o'clock E. traviled 20 miles. 31* Started at \ past 5 oc. M. Stoped 2^ hours for dinner, camped on l?lm> Kivrr at 4 o'clock E. traviled 15 miles; most splendid ppring water there, met 4 waggons from the Mountains, 3 o'clock.
.Inn. Ut Started at A 5 M. commenced raining at 6 stoped 3 hour-, not .in after the rain ceased. Stoped 2 hours for dinner. ('.in. ).<•<! .-it .". o'clock E. travilod 10 miles. Doct. White overtook us at 4 o'clock E.
•-M Tn-riM-udon- rain & wind last night. Commenced ! last night. Cold wind & disagreeable morning. t.-.l at 1 ..viork K. ('an-ped at 7. E. traviled 8 miles.
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June 3d The company started at 5 oclock M. & left myself with 3 others to wait for Mr. Burns and others who were detained by Mr. Lancaster.
4. Started at 6 o'clock M. intending to go hack to the Blue River & there stay for Mr, Burns. Met Mr. Burns & his compa- ny together with O'Fallen 2 miles hack, turned & came on with them. Stoped 2 hours for dinner. Camped at 6 o'clock, E. traviled 22 miles. Cold wind. 5. Sunday, Started at 6 o'clock M. Stoped 1^ hours for dinner, overtook the company. Camped on the Blue at J past 4 o'clock E. traviled 21 miles.
0. All started together at 7 o'clock M. commenced raining at 9, camped at 10, rain ceased, took dinner and started at 1 o'clock. Camped at 6 o'clock E. traviled 16 miles rainy night. 7. June, cold, damp, & disagreeable morning rained untill 10 o'clock M. Started at J past 1 o'clock, camped at | past 6 o'clock E. traviled 10 miles.
8. Cloudy morning started at ^ past 7 o'clock. Stoped for dinner at £ p. 11: started at ^ p. 2. Camped at 7 o'clock E. on the head waters of the Blue R. which we have been following up for the last 3 days, good water & wood, traviled 16 miles.
9. Left Blue R. at 6 o'clock M. Crossed the Pawnee Trail at 8 o'clock. Stoped at | p. 12 for dinner without wood or water except what we carried with us. Started at 2 o'clock & traviled through a ridge of country destitute of wood & water. Camped at 7 o'clock E. on the Platte R. traviled 25 miles.
June 10. Started at 8 o'clock M. & followed up the Platte R. Stoped for dinner at£ past 12, started at 2. Camped at 5 o'clock E. traviled 12 miles.
J. 11. Difficulty between Doct. White & John Force. Started at 8 o'clock M. stoped for dinner 2 hours, camped at 5^ o'clock E. traviled 10 miles. 12. Sunday, Started at 7 o'clock M. Stoped at 12, found a band of Buffalo near the camp nearly 100 killed 3 very good Bulls. Started at 3, saw many Buffalo. Camped at 6 o'clock E. traviled 14 miles. Buffalo came close around the camp killed 6.
13. Large herds of Buffalo in plain sight around the camp. Started in good season. Saw thousands of Buffalo traviled 15 miles, little feed for horses.
June 14. Our animals alarmed last night by the Buffalo ap- proaching the camp. 2 oxen shot by the Guard through mistake but neither of them killed. Started at 8 o'clock M. Commen- ced raining at i p. 11. Stoped for dinner at 12. Started at \ p. 2. Camped 18 miles.
15. Started at 7 o'clock M. Saw thousands of Buffalo near the trail stopped for dinner at J p. 11, good wood and pasture, but poor water, verry warm day.
The month for which Capt. White was elected being up the company elected Mr. Hastings by a majority of 12 over Mr. Meek. Concluded not to move camp today, traviled 9 miles.
16. Remain in camp today to wash our clothes.
June 16. More difficulty and misunderstanding in the com-
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pany. Doct. White with a few others concluded to leave.
17. Rain this morning. The majority of the company start- ed at 8 o'clock under Capt. Hastings. Two waggons and 13 men remained Capt. Fnllen. Started at 11 o'clock passed the other par- ty and camped at 6 o'clock. They passed us again and camped 3 miles ahead, we traviled 14 miles, quite cold.
lx Started at 7 o'clock. Cold wind & extremely uncomfort- able. Commenced to rain at 10 o'clock stopcd. Started at 2 camped at 7 on the South fork of Platte traviled 18 miles. Capt. II. 2 miles ahead. For 2 days we have seen no Buffalo. Capt. Fallen brought us some meat.
Juno 19. Sunday, Started at 7, stopped for dinner 2^ hours within 1 mile of Capt. Hastings. Camped on the Platte within \ mile of the other company at 6, traviled 20 miles.
20. Capt. Hastings & comp. crossed over the river & we fol- lowed immediately.
The South Fork where we crossed is ^ mile wide but not deep the bottom is quick sand. Left the South Fork and took X. \V. [direction] for the N. Fork. The other company went south of us. Camped on the North Fork. The other company 2 miles behind, traviled 15 M.
21. Started early and kept up the River good road in the forenoon. Stopped 3 hours for dinner, several hunters from the other company took dinner with us, some hills to cross Camped early traviled 20 miles.
22. Started early, good road. 3 men left the other Com. for Fort Laromie took dinner with us.
22. Capt. Fallen & Esq. Crocker went on to Fort L. verry warm. Camped early traviled 20 miles. Mosketoes pleanty.
23. Started early, kept along the river, water good. Saw some boatmen from the Fort stoppod 3 hours for dinner. Camped early traviled 16 miles.
24. Started early drove verry fast stopped for dinner nearly oposite the Chimney a very remarkable mound rising like a pyramid some 100 feet and then a perpendicular column stand- ing on the top probably 200 feet hign. Saw a Buffalo crossing the River, Chained him back to the hills. The most remarkable thing I have seen is the deception in distances. Bluffs which appear within 1 mile are often 5 miles from us. Camped early traviled 20 mil*-.
.June 25. Started 7. Cattle's feet verry sore traviled slow.
bottom \\ to ."> miles wide, stopped for dinner 4 hours, verry
hot. left the River traviled 12 miles. Camped without water or
\\oi.d in :i valley bordered on each side by high Bluffs presenting
the most romantie <renery I ever saw.
'-!'». Bui rted early without breakfast eame to good
lock. ' Camped on the side of a hill in a
• . Started at 1 o'clock saw the other company coming on, drove to II-'-. < 'P. 'k camped traviled 14 miles. Hoivos verry much friirlitene.l about midnight nearly all broke lose.
27. at I nYl.M-k without breakfast stopped on the
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River at 10J o'clock. Started at 1 o'clock verry sultry day. Cat- tle verry near giving out. Camped at sundown, traviled 18 miles.
28. Started late drove to the Forts by noon, traviled 10 miles. Found 2 Forts with several men at each whose business it is to trade with the Indians. Capt. H.came up, 5 o'clock.
29. Preparing carts & disposing of our cattle in order to ex- pedite our journey.
30. Verry buisy preparing to start tomorrow. July 1. Diffi- culty between Doct. White and Capt. Fallen. Fallen refused to m> with us. Remained here all day. 2d joined the other com- pany under Capt. Hastings. Started at 9 o'clock met a company from the mountains near the Fort. Camped at five, good wood and water poor grass, traviled 12 miles through a hilly and bar- ren country.
July 3. Sunday Entered what is called the Black Hills. Traviled 15 miles over bad road without seeing water. Mr. Fitch Patrick employed as guide came to camp.
4th. Waggon to repair. Wrote a few lines to my Parents. Started at noon had a verry rough road. Came to water 6^ o'clock, traviled 11 miles. Cart broke down 2 miles from camp.
5. Repaired the cart. Started at noon found good water at three o'clock, had some heavy hills to rise. Buffalo very scarce. Camped early good wood, water and grass, traviled 9 miles.
6. Started at six drove on at a good pace until noon found a first rate camping place. Concluded to remain here today as there was no good chance ahead, traviled 12 miles.
July 7. Started early traveled over a rough mountainous & barren country found no good camping place until late afternoon traviled 16 miles, found a fine band of Buffalo cows.
8. Started at 8 o'clock had a verry hilly road stopped for din- ner at 12^ o'clock on creek started at 4 camped on the Platte, good wood and water but short grass, travlied 15 miles.
9. Started at 7 o'clock stopped at 9^ on Deer Creek. Second trial of Mr. Moss for not standing guard. Jury could not agree. Started at 2 camped at 7, traviled 15 miles. Saw several bands of line Buffalo cows our hunter killed one I think decidedly the best meat I ever eat.
10. Sunday Started at 7 verry heavy west wind yesterday & to- day.
July 10. Sunday, Crossed over the Platte & camped traviled
11 miles 11. Started at 8, left the Platte & Black Hills traviled
12 miles over hilly roads & camped in sight of the Red Butes good water and grass but no wood. Cool wind.
12. Started in good season saw an abundance of Buffalo crossed some verry Rocky Hills said to be the commencement of the Moun- tains. Stopped for dinner 2 hours. Camped in a little valley sur- rounded with bushes grass good & first rate water and wood, trav- iled 16 miles.
13. Verry cold, water in a pail froze ice like thick window glass. Started early rai/ed a long hill detained by wagons breaking down 1 hour.
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July 13. Stopped for late dinner on verry warm road levol and sandy not a particle of grass, passed bedds of white substance par- taking of thenatureof salt and mngnetia &c. Camped at sunset on Sweet Water, traviled 20 m. Baily shot while walking through camp by accidental discharge of a gun from a waggon, he lived about one hour.
14. Buried Baily near Independence Rock J mile from camp. My feelings on this occasion can hardly be described. A young man in the vigor of youth and health taken from our company wraped in a Buffalo Robe & and buried in this dismal Prairie. What sad tidings for his Parents & friends who like my own are far from here. Went out hunting Buffalo.
July 15. Layed about 15 miles from camp last night in com- pany with three others. Killed a Bull and as we had eaten noth- ing since we left camp we soon built a fire and roasted some meat, killed a cow about 11 o'clock, got into camp towards night found all the rest of the company had more meat than us. Today Capt. Hastings month being up himself and Lieu Lovejoy were re-elect- ed. 16 Concluded to move camp nearer to the Buffalo. Started at 8 o'clock followed up the Sweet Water at the foot of a tremen- dous mountain composed of solid rock. Sweet water passes through a gap in this mountain, great curiosity.
July 16. Camped on Sweet water at 3 o'clock. Went with 2 others about linile from camp and ascended the mountain after having viewed the rock we decended about half way when we dis- covered a party of 200 Indians approaching camp.
Made all possible haste to camp. Indians met us but let us pass. Found they had taken our Capt. & Lieu, prisoners at the Independence Rock where they had been taking observations and brought them to carr.p. Showed no hostility. Presented them with tobaco. Camped near us, traviled 12 miles. 17. Sunday After calling on us & receiving some ammunition they left & trav- iled up the River. We stay to make meat. Verry warm. Several men gone hunting. Verry difficult to get meat.
Mr. Bennitt's Daughter slightly wounded by an accidental dis- charge of a gun.
Monday July 18. We reluctantly remained here today. Sev- eral gone hunting slight shower of rain. Considerable of moat l>r< night in today.
19. Started at 7£ o'clock followed up the Sweet W«tcr, tre- mendous Rocky Mountains on each side. Camped at 12J o'clock, good grass, water and wood, traviled 7 miles.
•Jo. Stay here today to dry what meat we have and get more. Ban ten driven into camp by the Indians who are scattered in -mall par ties all a round us. Indians take 2 horses from Binnit's KM1 A \Voston. They came to cam]) verry much frightened. Capt. & several others went out to see if they had any of our men several of whom were out yet. All came in safe. False alarm in the night.
Thursday. .Inly *J1. Stay hero all this day.' Brown lost a horse leg broke by a kick. Indians came hack before noon a few came
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near camp & told many different stories. We observed they had more horses than when they went up. 280 were counted in their Party. They passed quietly by and said they were going home. Extremely warm.
22. Started at 7, traviled on at a good pace until 10 met a party of Shian Indians. Camped within two miles of their Village, about noon the Chiefs together with some hundreds of others came to camp. We made them presents of ammunition, tobaco <fec. and smoked with them. Started after dinner passed their village which consisted of several hundred lodges.
Friday 22d July. Several Indians accompanied us to camp. Mr. Fitch Patrick judged they were in the village of Crows, Shians, & Sues between 4 & 5000. Many of our Company traded horses with them. Camped near sun set on Sweet Water, traviled 15m.
23 Started at 7^ o'clock, bad road. Crossed the Sweet Water a number of times, some verry narrow passes between the moun- tains. Camped on S. W. at noon, traviled 7 miles a small party of Indians came to camp, about 100 more Indians came to camp at 2 o'clock. They were a war party of Sues & Shians who had been to fight the Snakes. They returned as usual in several par- ties another small party came up near night. A few came to camp to smoke.
Sunday 24. Started early left the creek & traviled over a hill of sand without a particle of grass ground covered with wild sage. Saw mountains with snowy sides far to the N. W. struck Sweet Water about noon stoped for dinner 2^ hours crossed the creek several times afternoon. Camped on the creek good wood and grass traviled 15 miles.
25 Started 6^ o'clock rose a long hill came on the creek & camped at 11 for dinner drove two hours afternoon camped on the creek much the best grass we have seen since we left the Fort good spring water & pleanty of wood traviled 12 miles. Wild geese for several days have been frequently seen & fish are caught from Sweet Water creek.
Tuesday 26, July. The nights arc astonishingly cold & the days are verry warm. Last night I Iny under a thick Blanket & Buffalo Robe with my clothes on. Started early traviled over a long rocky hill camped at noon, got already to start after dinner and a waggon broke down stay here tonight, traviled 10 miles had a severe cold rain.
27. Started early stopped a short time for dinner. Camped near sun set on Sweet Water, traviled 16 miles.
28. Started 7 o'clock left Sweet W^ater crossed the dividing ridge. Camped at 10 o'clock on a little stream running westward, traviled 6 miles. Left the cart here, one waggon left. Snowy mountains constantly in sight.
Friday 29. Started 7 o'clock traviled over a sandy barren country destitute of game & every thing but wild sage, high mountains north of us apparently 20 or 30 miles covered with snow. Camped after noon on Little Sandy Creek which empties in Green River a verry pretty stream but much warmer than I ex- pected traviled 14 miles.
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30. Started early stopped on the creek for dinner 2 hours. Camped near sun set on Big Sandy Creek traviled 20 miles.
31. Sunday. Rainy morning Started 7. Commenced rain- ing verry cold & unpleasant. Considerable decending ground. Camped on the creek at 3 o'clock traviled 15 miles. Much talk about dividing the company at Green River.
August 1. Monday started at 7. Commenced raining soon rain- ed moderately crossed Green River and camped 11 o'clock traviled 6 miles. Some of the company preparing to pack from here rainy afternoon and evening. 2d. Cold wet morning some mak- ing pack saddles aud others repairing their waggons determ- ined to take them through.
3. Capt. Hastings with 8 waggons started at 8 o'clock, Meek Pilot. The best wagons were taken on 2 were left standing the rest destroyed to repair others. In our camp there is 27 men, Mr. Fitchpatrick Captain and Pilot. Finished making packsaddles cashed goods and preparing to start tomorrow.
Thursday Aug. 4. All started with pack animals at 8 o'clock had verry little trouble on the way arrived at Ham's Fork of Green River at 4^ o'clock. Camped good grass and wood traviled 20 miles in a different direction from that which the waggons took. We saw high mountains covered with snow to the south west.
5. Started at 7, saw some of Capt. H. company the wnggons camped 2 miles behind us last night. Said they had to leave one waggon the first day. Stopped early for dinner cashed liquor. Started & crossed a considerable hill cold and rainy afternoon got verry wet, rain ceased and we camped 5 o'clock on the same creek traviled 18 miles.
Saturday Aug. 6. Started early traviled 6 hours before din- ner over a verry rough mountainous country in some places we were obliged to all follow one path. Camped near sunset on the same creek good grass little wood, Traviled 22 miles.
7. Started in good season followed up the creek some time crossed a hill to the north commenced raining crossed some verry bad water courses. Stopped for dinner at the side of a high moun- tain rain stopped started soon, rain and hail. Crossed two tre- mendous mountains and camped on Bear River near sunset trav- iled 25 miles. Saw a verry large Indian trail nearly fresh. The river runs nearly north here.
Monday Aug. 8. Started as usual followed down the River level road verry high mountain on each side of the River Bottom which is bettor soil than we have seen for some time. Stopped on the River a short time for dinner. Two accidents this after- nniin by falling from horses not serious. A few trout caught from the river Today. Traviled 20 miles and camped on Tommaux Fork.
9. Start »M! early across the Fork and crossed over a tremend- our mountain and stopped for dinner on the river, had level road this afternoon. Camped in good season on Tullock's Fork a running t'nmi tli<- Mountains into the River traviled 18
JOURNAL. 15
miles.
Wednesday Aug. 10. Saw fresh sines of Indians started early. Indians soon came to us. They were Ponarchs and moving in the same direction with us many of them traviled with us until 3 o'clock when we struck the river and camped, traviled 16 miles. Several horses were procured from them on reasonable terms by our company. Their whole company soon came up and camped near us.
11. Some trading this morning started at 8J o'clock left the river before noon saw some of the finest springs of water which form a large creek. Saw the soda springs and Boiling springs the greatest Natural Curiosity I ever saw. Camped near soda springs good place traviled 15 miles. Some Indians came to camp.
Friday Aug. 12. Went to see the Boiling springs again this morning the hole through which the water spouts is about 1 foot in diameter the water which kept a continual Boiling rises fre- quently to the hight of 3 feet. It is said at times to rise much higher. It is Blood warm and has a sulphur and mineral taste there appears to be a species of Rock constantly forming around the hole which is already considerably elevated. There is a smaller hole near which appears to serve sis a vent through which the air is constantly circulating. Started 7, a few Indians in camp 2 of our company started ahead for Fort Hall. Saw a singular spring partaking considerably of the quallities of soda.
Friday Aug. 12. Stopped for dinner about 2 o'clock. Started soon camped on Portnough traviled 23 miles.
13. Horses strayed off some distance from camp started in good season stopped early for dinner drove on again until near sunset and camped on Ross Fork in deep valley on a beautiful little stream traviled 25 miles. 14. Sunday. Started in good season and traviled verry fast in order to get to the Fort early as possible. Stopped for dinner on Ross Fork. Some Fort men came to camp started and crossed several spring Brooks camped on Snake or Lewis River near Fort Hall traviled 25 miles. 15. visited the Fort found it much smaller than Laramie but verry well conducted. Commenced writing a letter.
Tuesday 16. Finished my letter to my Parents. Visited the Fort. 17. Concluded not to start today. Wrote to W. C. Enosof St. Louis. Capt. H. with seven waggons came in. 18. Starting is again deferred untill tomorrow. 19. Started about 9 o'clock kept down the River. Crossed several marshy places, verry warm day and much trouble with packs. Camped on the River, traviled 15 miles. 20. Started in good season saw the American falls. It is not a perpendicular fall but more like rapids interspersed with large rocks. Met a large number of Indiana. Doct. went back and traded fish and horse from them stopped for dinner in a verry bad place. Doct. came up started camped on river traviled 12 miles.
Aug. 21. Sunday. Concluded to wait for the Company as some are not satisfied to go without a Pilot. Company passed about 1 o'clock. We packed iip and started found them Camped about
16 JOURNAL.
three miles on the River. Mr. McDonald came up soon. 22d Started without breakfast and traviled verry fast until 8 o'clock stopped on a creek three hours. Started and drove on a trot nearly all day, verry rocky hard for horses feet. The same Barren Country covered with sage continues. Camped on a Little Brook at 5 o'clock traviled 30 m good water and grass, little wood suf- fered very much with dust.
Tuesday 23d Aug. Started early drove fast. Came close to the river camped at 10 on Goose Creek. H. B. Company arrived 1J hours before us our cattle verry much fatigued concluded not to try to keep up with the H. B. Company with our cattle. Compa- ny started two hours before us we drove moderately camped early traviled 20 miles. Doct. White left us for the H. B. Company whom he intends to go with to Fort Vancouver. Only 8 men left in our Company without a Pilot, 24. Started in good season and trav- iled moderately, fine cool day camped about noon. Giger and others passed with many animals. Started at 2J o'clock. Camped on a verry pretty Brook traviled 18 miles. Tuesday Aug. 25. Started at 7J crossed two deep ravines, verry rocky, passed an old camping grd. at 10J o'clock concluded not to stop drove on at a good pace decended into a tremendous valley with banks of perpendicular rock at least 200 feet high on the north side a large portion of water issues out of the rock nearly half way up. Camp- ed at 3J o'clock on a large stream formed mostly by springs of the above description, traviled 21 miles.
26. Started at 7, kept down the Creek which is verry rapid left the Creek and decended a steep hill. Crossed a beautiful stream. Camped at 11. Started at 2 passed some Indian Lodges traded fish both fresh and dry left the river rose a tremendous hill travellid on till dark no appearance of water verry dark until 9 when the moon arose decended a tremendous hill found the river we left and camped at 10 o'clock night in a miserable sandy and rocky place traviled 30 M.
27. Saturday. Started at 8 kept down the river on the side of a steep bank where we were obliged to all follow one narrow path cross some steep ravines camped at 12£ on an island in Snake river good grass concluded to stay here today and let our animals recruit, traviled 10 M.
28. Started early kept down the river along a steep side-hill saw many Indians who live along the river and subsist principally on fish traded fresh fish from them. Sunday 28, Aug. Camped 11 J for dinner several Indians in camp. Left the river for a short time after dinner saw large sandbanks drifted like snow. Camped on a slew of the river verry high grass, trav. 18 M. horses got frightened and ran some distance from camp, probably wolves.
29. Started at 7, cold morning followed down the river awhile left the river verry barren country less sage than formerly. Crossed a large branch followed it through a tremenous gap in the mountain for at least two miles the rock standing up on each side probably 200 ft. Camped for dinner at the River many Lodges near several came into camp. 29. Followed down the river after
JOURNAL. 17
dinner crossed on to an Island & camped near sunset, trav. 20 M.
30. Started at 7 kept down the River a short time took din- ner on a small Branch verry poor grass. Find the country grow- ing more barren not even producing sage. Camped near sunset on a beautiful little Branch in a valley surrounded on three sides by high hills traviled 18 miles.
31. Followed down the Branch to the river about L| miles in search of the horses, found the River as well as the Branch flow- ing among high cliffs of rock with scarcely room for a path on its Banks. 31st Aug. Started at 7J rose a long hill astonishingly barren country decended to the river stopped for dinner tolerable good grass, found Indians pleanty towards evening. Camped near their village poor grass trav. 18. M.
Thursday Sept. 1st, 1842. Many Indians come to camp traded pleanty of fish started 8, crossed 2 small streams which are said to be hot water. It was discovered by some of our party attempt- ing to drink they said the water burned their hands took dinner on the on the river verry warm day poor grass. Camped on the river poor grass traviled 15 miles.
Friday Sept. 2d. Started at 8J no alteration in the general appearance of the country took dinner on the river verry poor grass Camped in the evening on Warior River a Branch of the Snake traviled 14 miles.
3d. Started 7J crossed W. R. arrived at Fort Boyzea at 9. Crossed over Snake River in a Canoe to the Fort which stands on the north side of the river procured some Drovisions. Crossed back traviled down the river a short distance & camped for din- ner. Fort B. is a new Establishment. It has been a short time in operation but is not yet completed. We saw but one white man who was French. The company left the Fort on Thursday.
Sept. 3d. At the Fort we tasted musk mellon but of a very indifferent quallity. They raise corn & a few other vegetables in small quantities. From the fort we saw a large smoke at a dis- tance supposed to proceed from a volcanick mountain. Left camp at 11 o'clock & traveled briskly over a sandy country suf- fered considerable for water as the day was exceedingly hot came to a creek about 6 oclock & never was water to me more excepta- ble though of a very indifferent quality, passed down the Creek a short distance at the foot of a mountain & found boiling water running out of the ground. It made its appearance just above the age of the water in the River in a Boiling state for over a hund- red yards it runs more or less. One of our company cooked a fish which he caught from the creek in about two minutes perfectly through. The water was so salt that the fish was sufficiently seasoned. Crossed the Creek & camped common grass traviled 15 m.
4. Concluded to stay here & let our cattle & horses rest to- day. Two of our company getting impatient left us this morning spent the day repairing, washing, &c.
Monday 5th Sept. Started at 7-J oclock left the Creek our road led mostly through rallies we found more grass & and less
i8 JOURNAL.
sage than common came to a little water at 10 o'clock but con- cluded not to stop. Exceedingly warm came to a small stream at 2 oclock & camped. Cattle far behind & rr.uch fatigued trav- ilcd 16 m.
6. Started at 7J followed down the stream found Snake River close by followed it down about one mile & struck across a moun- tain. Came to a creek at 10 oclock. S copped for dinner 3 hours our path wound along the sides of mountains & frightful precipices & in many places if our animals make one miss-step it would be cer- tain death. The path continued up & down rocky hills until we came to a good camping ground about 5 oclock traviled 13 m.
7. Started at 7J rose a most tremendous hill the highest I have rose on the rout, got a fall from a horse hurt my foot some. The road is more precipitous than ever, up & down and constant- ly over rocks. Crossed several streams. Stoped for dinner at 10 oclock started at 1, and commenced climbing hflls again crossed several small streams and found good grass most of the way came to the stream on which we camped last night. Camped at 4 oc traviled 10 miles.
Thursday 8, Sept. Horses strayed far from camp and instead of an early start as we intended we got off at 9 oclock we left the Branch and gradually a rose a long hill. Stopped for dinner on a small stream at 12 oclock started at 2J & continued to rise by degrees.
The country over which we have traviled to day is mostly cov- ered with Bunch Grass which the Horses are very fond of. Wo at last found the top of the mountain at a distance we could see what we suppose to be the Blue mountains and they struck us with terror their lofty peaks seemed a resting place for the clouds. Below us was a large plain and at some distance we could discover a tree which we at once recognized as "the lone tree" of which we had before heard. We made all possible speed and at 7^ o'clock the advance party arrived at the Tree nearly an hour before the cattle. The Tree is a large Pine standing] in the midst of an im- mense plain intirely alone. It presented a truly singular appearance and I believe is respected by every tra viler through this almost Treeless Country. Within a few yards we found pleanty of water and we soon made ourselves comfortable by a good fire. As soon as we arrived at the top of the hill in sight of the Blue moun- tains felt an uncommon chilly wind which increased so as to be uncomfortable befora we arrived. As soon as we reached the val- ley we found our old friend Sage flourishing in a most unwelcome manner. The grass about camp was not good, traviled 18 miles.
Friday 9. Sept. Horses far from camp this morning, found pleanty of frost on our beds and nil about. Left camp at 8 oclock but was a long time finding the right trail. Cold wind from the 15. mountains on tops of which we soon discovered heaps of snow.
Came to a large Creek which we followed a while & stopped for dinner at \"2\ oclock. Started at 3 crossed the Creek. Crossed 2 more CIVCN— <">n and camped at 4^ oclock. We should have traviled on but we was afraid of being in the night without water,
JOURNAL. 19
this is the difficulty of traviling without a Pilot. Found good wood, water, and grass about at our camp travilcd 11 miles. Cold wind.
Sept. 10. Saturday verry cold morning. Horses far from camp. Started at Soclock found good places for camping which we might have come to last night. Commenced rising gradually at 10 oclock continued to rise until 12 when we came to a tre- mendous hill to descend. The mountains on our left were close by they rose gradualy and were covered with Pine Trees. Our descent lasted for near an hour, about midway of the hill was a little water course crossing our path & afforded us a rest ing place around this place were several Pine Trees. I noticed the White Pine and the Spruce Pine. Some were verry tall & slim. From this little grove down the hill was more difficult all were obliged to dismount for safety. It was verry sidling and uncomfortable rocky. Below was a most beautiful valley as I ever saw. We found good grass, a delightful road, <&a fertile country in the valley, we crossed some small water courses and camp on a beautiful Creek at 3 o'clock good grass, & water & an abundance of wood traviled 20 miles found several well beaten trails leading from camp but none appeared fresh. After dark two Indians came to camp on horseback. They were of a different tribe from any which we had seen. They had traps and appeared to have been out but a short time. They told us that we could get to Wala Wala in 3 days.
Sept. 11. Sunday started at 7J o'clock with our Indians for Guide. They took us a northern direction & put us on the com- panies trail about 10 o'clock we then came to the Creek which we had left in the morning and followed it down. We discovered a band of Horses on the other side of the Creek. Our Indians left us about noon and crossed the Creek to these Horses which were be- ing driven in the same direction we were going. We saw more Horses ahead. Came to an Indian village at 2 o'clock and camped near them, traviled 18 miles. PlfiCfOit
The rirst thing to be attended to after we camped was to as- sertain whether we could get any provisions from the Indians. We found to our great joy they had pleanty and instead of starv- ing as we expected we were able to trade enough fish to last us to Dr. Whitmans. There were several lodges & they were well clad & had hundreds of good horses and an abundance of provision. I have seen no Indians since I started which appear so happy & well provided for as these. The beneficial influence of the Mis- sionary Society appears to have reached here. They attended morning and evening devotion in our camp.
12 Sept. Monday. Horses strayed far from camp and scattered among the Indians' Horses. The Indians showed moral honesty by bringing horses to us which had strayed by themselves to some distance. Started at 9J o'clock several Indians started with us one continued & said he would go to Dr. Whitmans. Com- menced raising a Mountain by degrees. Came to trees, at first quite thin & without underbrush having fine grass. But as we
20 JOURNAL.
arose we came to a densly timbered country, mostly pine & fir. The most beautiful tall straight trees. Our traviling through the timber was quite difficult as the path wound back and forth and many logs lay across it. We decended & arose a tremendous hill and about 3 o'clock our Indian Guide beckoned us to take a by path to find water, we did so and after traveling a few hundred yards found a little opening of timber & pleanty of good water & some grass. Camped here for the night trav. 10 miles. Cool & cloudy considerable of rain after dark. Horses got frightened tied some up & the rest remained near.
Sept. 13 Tuesday. Started at 8£ and followed back our path until we came to the main trail when we pusued our dismal rout, Our path today led through more dense places & driving our pack animals & cattle was almost impossible. Occasionally we found a clear spot frequently several acres together and in the forenoon several little springs of water, towards evening we left the timber and found ourselves on a rolling Prairie of good soil. Continued to decend until near sunset when to our great joy we found water and wood but poor grass. Camped traviled 20 miles. Sept. 14. Our Indian Guide told us we would get to Dr. Whitman's today but we hardly expected it as our animals were verry much jaded. But it was nearer than we expected and we 'arrived at 3 o'clock and camped near his house traviled 8 m.
Dr. Whitman is a Missionary of the Presbyterian Order he has been in the Country six years. He has a verry comfortable house and is farming to a considerable extent. He has a Thrashing Ma- chine & a grinding mill all under one roof driven by water power. Many Indians around him. I was never more pleased to see a hou^e or white people in my life, we were treated by Dr. and Mrs. Whitman with the utmost kindness. We got what provision we wanted on very reasonable terms. I have just heard of the Death of young man who started from Independence with us. He was with the Hudson Bays Company and got drowned himself and horse crossing the Snake River soon after he left us. What is to me remarkable it was his gun and by an accident of his hand that put an end to poor Baily at Independence Rock. A small detach- ment, Forces', from the hind company came up.
Sept. 15. Having reed verry bad treatment from the Indians we < --on eluded to get away from here as soon at possible & try to iind more grass, some of our company started before noon but we could not get ready until 3J oclock when we started down about 4 miles and found the rest of our company camped in an excel- ent spot. Forces came up also after dark. 16. Started at 8 oclock kept down the Walawala River and camped at 1 o'clock within 3 miles of the Fort. Traviled 12 miles. Visited the Fort saw Esqr Crocker, Doct. White had left before noon in the Com- panies Boat.
All the foremost company had gone by land except Esqr. & Moss who started this evening to overtake them. I had an intro- duction to Mr. McKenly who is in charge at the fort. The Fort is rebuilding now ha\-ing lately been burnt. It is situated on a
JOURNAL. 21
miserable sandy barren place where the sand drifts with the wind like snow. The Walla Walla River emties in & forms the Co- lumbia here.
17. Sept. Saturday started at 9 o'clock drove to the Fort found Mr. McKenly from home not to return until evening could not get the Doct's Things drove down the river and camped, traviled four miles. The rest of the company went on. The Banks of the River on each side present tremendous pinacles of rock mostly perpendicular. We find considerable of sage yet in places.
Sept. 18. Sunday. Went to the Fort before breakfast and got our things. Started at 9^ o'clock lost two animals went back and found [them] and kept down the river, the most of time a steep bluff of rocks was on our left with occasional spots of grass sufficient for camping purposes stoped three hours for dinner, much sand and frequently in large drifts camped near sunset, traviled 12 m.
Sept. 19. Started at 8 a 'clock drove on at a good pace verry warm day camped in a good spot on the river traviled 15 m.
Sept. 20. Started at 8 o'clock kept down the river verry sandy barren country destitute of timber (crossed the Unadilla). Cold wind & little rain. Mr. Spaulding& Lady over took us at noon rain increased. Camped at 4 o'clock, traviled 18 miles. Considerable rain. Cleared off before bed time. Mr. Gray called at camp on his return from Vancouver.
21. Started at 10 o'clock and parted with Mr. & Mrs. Spald- ing who in consequence of some intelligence from Mr. Gray re- solved to return. Cold wind. Camped at 5 o'clock, traviled 20 miles.
22. Started late, cold wind bad road, traviled 18 miles.
23. Started late, tremenndous west wind, lost my horse last night, Indians brought him into camp this morning, verry rocky road over steep sidling places, crossed a large creek about noon. Camped at 4 o'clock. Traviled 11 miles.
24th Sept. Started verry late, tremendous west wind & sand drifting like snow in our faces, passed over some large drifts. Came to a tremendous rapid Creek, obliged to take all our effects over in a canoe which was dangerous. Passed tremendous rocky falls in the River. Large Indian town, traviled 6 m.
25 Sept. Sunday, I feel bad this morning in consequence of getting wet yesterday and my eyes are much affected by the fly- ing sand. Started at 11 o'clock traviled over hills & sidling places, saw a high snowy peak which we understand to be Mt. Hood. Passed the Dalls or rapids of the river which is a singular sight. Ar- rived at Mt. Perkins at 3 o'clock, found our old company there, traviled 8 miles. Mr. Perkins preached in camp this evening.
26. Visited Mr. Perkins at his house. Was verry kindly rec'd and hospitably treated, got potatoes &c. and started at 1 o'clock with an Indian Guide, rose a long hill and left the river, traviled over the most romantic country I have yet seen. The day is verry pleasant indeed and the tall trees through which we are passing
22 JOURNAL.
adds much to the beauty of the prospect. On our left arises Mt. Hood with its snowy peak glistening in the sunbeams, on the right & about the same distance Mt. Helena which resembles Mt. Hood verry much. As we descended towards evening we saw far below us the river flowing as it were & dividing the two snowy peaks. We descended a considerable of a hill and found the pleasantest camp, the best wood, grass, and water we have had in a long time, travilled 12 miles.
27. Started early arose and decended several rocky hills. Camped in the woods verry little grass indeed, traviled 11 ra.
28. Started at 8J, got behind on account of a mule being lost. Our company left us. We started at 9 o'clock, missed one of our Indian horses but I thought he was with the other company. We came to a verry rapid river just as they were across, very dif- ficult crossing on account of large rocks and deep water, almost impossible to get along up the steep hills over the rocks & be- tween the trees. Caught up with the company at 11 o'clock, found my horse not there started back to find him, found him at the camp we left had much difficulty to get him along. Two In- dians overtook me at the river on my return with 5 good horses. I traviled with their, until dark when we came to an Indian Camp where we concluded to sleep. I got a few berries and a little fish for my supper. I crossed several rapid streams flowing from those snowy mountains before I got to Camp where I slept. We found no grass for our horses at all, traviled 13 mfles.
29. Arose early after a verry uncomfortable night's rest having only one blanket and a piece of Robe. My horses looked so bad I got one of the Indians horses to ride, started early without eat- ing a particle, found the road horrible beyond description, met John Force soon who said he had lost 2 horses & was in search. The company had all tied up their horses to trees except the two that he had lost. He returned with us and gave up the search, overtook the rear of the company about 10 o'clock. One of our mules had been lost the day before while I was gone back for the horse. The horse I went back after gave out from hunger & fa- tigue, being verry poor, and I was obliged to leave him in the woods, traviled along all day over hills and precipices, rocks and mire holes, over logs and under trees and across rapid streams, until at sunset we found a verry little grass not worth mention- ing & camped, traviled 20 miles. I found my apetite verry good having eat verry little in 36 hours.
30. Started early, found our animals verry hollow and weak, passed down and crossed the stream found considerable grass in 2 miles from camp, traviled on until 11 o'clock when we stopped to bait our animals which were starving, started at 1 and drove on over as bad and some worse roads than ever, having frequent mire holes with logs in them, traviled up and down long hills and stopped at dark with verry little grass and the most dismal & un- pleasant camp I ever saw, traviled 13 miles.
Sunday, October 1st, 1842. My horse cannot be found this morning, 3 out of 5 of our riding animals give out so we have to
JOURNAL. 23
start on foot. Starting at 8J found my horse on the way, horid road, logs& mud holes. Doct. Whites American mare verrynear giving out, found some grass and stopped atnoon,traviled5miles. Concluded to stay here tonight.
Oct. 2, Sunday. Started at 9 o'clock some bad road met 3 of the young men who went down first, arrived at their camp at 4^ o'clock, good grass and water, traviled 16 miles.
3d. A few of us accompanied those who were here before us to the Falls of Willamut where we found many people & considera- ble of buisness. Saw Dr. White & others who arrived before us, we were handsomely reed and kindly treated.
4. Packed up and started at 9 oclock called at the Falls and took dinner, found some of the men who came over with us at work on a mill. Mr. Jones & a man by name of Cooke much in- jured by blasting rocks, drove on and overtook our pack. Camped on a Creek. Traviled 10 miles.
5. Started at 9J crossed several streams, bad road. Camped in the settlements at the house of a Frenchman who treated us verry kindly, traviled 10 m.
October 6. Started late took a round about road arrive at the mission at 2 o'clock, traviled 10 miles. Oct. 7. Rode about to see the country like it much. This is among the first frosty nights.
8. Went to the mill with Mrs. & Miss Brown. Mr. Benitt and Pomeroy together with several young men arrived in the set- tlement.
9. Sunday. Attended church twice today. Oct. 10. Mr. Pomeroy returned to the Falls. I crossed the River to see the country, stayed all night with Mr. O'Neil. 11. Rainy morning cleared off soon. Crossed the River & stayed all night at the Doct. House. 12. Clear fine weather. 13. Went with Mr. Shortess & Doct. Babcock to Youngs valley. Beautiful country, returned and wrote to my Father. 14. Commenced working* a little. 18. Oct. Rainy morning cloudy day. 19. Oct. Rainy morning, cloudy & thick mist. 20. Rainy morning, cloudy day & some rain, rainy night. 21. Cloudy morning and day.
Distance from Independence to Willamette Falls according to my estimate 1746 Miles.
Laramy 553 miles Perkins 1656
Ft. Hall 1107 W. Falls 1746
Walla Walla 1552
Pack No. i.
i Pr. Blankets 2 Doz. Butcher Knives
Tobaco i Bunch Blue Agate Beads
i Bunch Glass Beads I do Garnishing Blue
i do Fancy White i do Fish Hooks
i do Garnishing White i Piece Blue Cloth Tobaco, Powder, Glass Beeds, Fancy White. B. Garnishing, B. White
JOURNAL.
Butcher knives, Blue Agate Beeds, i Blue Garnishing Beeds. Fish Hooks, Blue Cloth, Crawfords Cloathes, 2 bunch Bells, Rice, Flints. 2 Gross Rings, 2 Doz. Looking G. , i Blue Garnishing Beads, Crock- er's Cloathes, Red Cloth, Lead.
Pack No. 2
Crawfords Cloathes Crockers Cloathes
1 Blanket
2 Bunches Bells
Rice & Flints
2 gross Rings 2 Doz. Looking Glasses i Bunch Garnishing Beades i Piece Red Cloth Bar Lead.
Commenced driving cart July 12 1842 noon. Left cart July 28 noon,
Dr. White To horse
Postage
Soap
Cash Discount, Bishop
18 [mutilated]
" " Bill at Batavia [mutilated " f< Fare to Buffalo [mutilated]
19 Caps, Primer, Mould tube 22 Bill at Buffalo
" " Tailor Bill
' ' " Fare to Cataraugus
" " Dinner
25 Fare to Erie S. B.
24 Bill at Erie
" " Fare to Pittiburgh " " Dinner & etc
25 Breakfast & etc ;-r i pr. Gloves
13 Dinner 5 Supper '£ Breakfast § Dinner at Pittsburgh •— • Fare to Cincinnati
20 Sunday 4 p. on S. B. Ap. i Bridle & Saddle
" Pantaloons " Theatre & sundries " Washing
2 Bill at Cincinnati 2
" Fare to St. Louis o
7 Expenses on boat 1 7 Sundries at St. Louis i
Horse hire i
Spurs, paper, pencil points wach rep —
21 Bill at St. Louis 10
"" Fare to In [mutilated] 10 20 Ib s. Sugar 2
2 " Saluratus Rosin Nails
|
Dr. |
Apr. 2 Doct. White Cr. |
|
|
40 |
By Cash 5 |
|
|
25 |
do 3 50 |
|
|
75 |
||
|
i |
||
|
5 |
||
|
26 Rido up from |
||
|
sdj |
28 Washing |
6» |
|
ed] |
" " Gun rep. |
SO |
|
36 2 15 |
Mayilndia Rubber & comb |
iS |
|
3 75 |
"" Caps & Cloth & etc |
35 |
|
25 |
" " Fish hooks & line |
25 |
|
50 |
4 Hobbles |
19 |
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50 |
15 Soap & Hat i |
13 |
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3 55 |
17 Bill at Independence |
75 |
|
i |
Paid for Soap |
75 |
|
633 |
M. Crawford to Dr. White Dr |
|
|
50 |
i Pack Saddle 2 |
50 |
|
50 |
I Belt and Scabbard i |
oo |
|
3i |
Powder |
54 |
|
38 |
Provisions ect. at McCarty 7 |
05 |
|
50 |
Bill for Sundries at Indepe'nd- |
|
|
38 |
ence 8 |
30 |
|
50 |
Noland's Board Bill 3 |
13 |
|
4 |
Pasture |
38 |
|
i 50 |
Bill |
25 |
|
3 |
" Dishes i |
85 |
|
3 50 |
Bar Lead |
IS |
|
50 |
St. Louis Exchange Bill 10 |
<!0 |
50 Fare to Independence S. B. 10 oo 38 Blankets 8 50
75 Saddle do i 50
50 Horse for Cublette 25 oo
50 Fare from River to Independ- ence i 50 Ballance due I 25
50 06
37
Alum 2 Bags Augur Tea
$82 94
25 i 75
81 5 25
JOURNAL.
|
Waggon Whip |
i oo Harness |
5 oo |
|
Trace Chains |
2 50 Mule Chollar |
I 25 |
|
Hames |
2 oo Box |
38 |
|
Coffee Mill |
i oo Blacksmith's Bill |
6 25 |
|
Blacksmith's Bill |
3 37 |
|
|
Towels |
25 5 |
41 49 |
|
Blind Bridles |
3 oo |
|
|
Spade |
t 25 |
8 30 |
|
Act of wheat taken by Crawford. Act of wheat taken by O' |
Neil. |
|
|
Bu |
Bu |
|
|
Sept. 17. Sent to mill (w) |
2 Sept. 24 Sent to mill w |
I# |
|
Oct. 23. Smith got (w) |
25 Sent to mill w |
2 |
|
" " 28. C. Applegate got w |
5 Richardson got w |
12 |
|
' 29. J. Applegate got w |
5 large measure |
|
|
Campbell for Jones w |
6l/2 Nov. 19 Richardson got w 25 |
|
|
Mathena w |
||
|
Millihan w |
25 |
Act of money Reed by Crawford
for Ferrying Hembree N. Ford J. Garrison Amos Cook
A. D. Smith I. Jones
W. Rice C. Reed E. Garrison H. Campbell
B. Williams Stewart
E. Garrison Catholic Mission
Tatton A. Hembree L. H. Judson Thos. Smith Painter
Blackfoot & Brenerd John Campbell Dorson Giger Osborne P. Armstrong
i oo 5 oo 3 oo 5 oo
12 00
7 50 50 50 i oo 3 oo i 25
I 00
3 oo 3 oo i 50 75
i 50 i oo
I OO
Act of money Reed by O'Neil
for Ferrying
G. Hines 5 oo
E. White 7 50
D. Waldo 2 36
R. Shortess 5 oo
L. D. Keyser 13 oo
J. Garrison 2 20
J. Manning 5 oo
J. Applegate 5 co
Dr. Babcock 3 oo
A. Beers 5 oo
B. Williams 3 76 G. Gay 10 oo R. M'Cary 5 oo Thos. Cockram 5 oo Francis Fletcher 5 oo
Act of Potatoes taken By
Crawford Bush
Smith had i8>^
8 oo Richardson 12
2 50 Crawford 16 i 25
50 Act of corn ears
i 25 Crawford gBu
5 oo Crawford 3^
Eeds i %
Pickett i
Jones 7^2
Nov 21 I got 50 sheaves Jones oats Dec 27 I got i Bushel Jones wheat
22 I got 25 I got 75 I got of Mission wheat Jany. 8 Bushels Feb. 2^ Bushels 3 Bushels
Jan 4
" 22
Feb 6
" ii Mar 4
" io Apr
;*
26
JOURNAL.
lS>£ NOV22 2
Apr. 8th got iol/2 Dec 10 i "
Dec 17 2-5"
Picket worked for me cleaning wheat 2 days
Thrashing &c. oats 2 "
Dec 20. I delivered at the mill 35 Bushels of wheat for Applegate and had 4^ of it ground for myself. February 20 I delivered 23^ Bush of wheat for Applegate making in all 58^ Bushels one fourth of which I have for hauling. O. D. Smith deposited 23 bus. wheat in the mill for me.
2 bu. 2 bu. 2 bu.
268 Ibs Flour 4 bu. 13
Joel Walker got for me
I got Dec. 14 Pickett got
" 20 I got Feb. 20 I got
Settled up 23
Picket & Jones commenced boarding Saturday Dec. 7. Dec. n Jones helped me get my hogs over the River. J. Jones Dr.
To i Boar Shoat 5 oo To i week Board 2 50 To riding girts & trying lard i 50 To paid Pickett 2 60
J.Jones Cr. By i sow 25 oo By 29 Ibs 1 isc 4 35
Mr. Carter & myself cleaned 400 Bushels of Mission wheat for which we have 1-14. We also thrashed and cleaned 379 Bushels for which we have y%.
I move in Garrison house Saturday Nov. 10 '44. Nov. 20 A. Beers Cr By 5^ Ibs of lard .87. A. Beers Bv Ibs lard.