593 J63

JOURNAL.

in ottering this journal to the public, the writer makes no pretension* :o authorship, but believes that, although it be written in plain, off-hand style, nevertheless, some portions of it may be interesting to the public and that if any who may chance to read it are about to "start for "Eldo- rado," they may derive some benefit from it. whether they <rO over the Plains, or by water. The writer will only attempt to describe objects ahd incidents as he saw them.

We commenced our journey from Lake countyHll., on the 27th day of March, (or rather I did, the team not being ready, and I havin.r some business to transact at Rock River.)

March, 28—1 left Hainesville, and traveled to Franklinville, McHenry Co., at night a distance of 30 miles.

29th. Reached Belvidere about noon, and spent the remainder of the day with John S. Curtis, Esq. Belvidere is a thrivino- village in Boon co., situated in the midst of a fertile and beautiful country. ' 18 miles.

30th.— Left Belvidere about noon, after havincr made a very agreeable

visit wOh Mr. Curtis, and traveled as far as Rockford, on Rock river, where

I found E. Ford, one of our company, and several others from Lake coun-

[ found Ford taking care of a" California emigrant from Wisconsin,

by the name of Maynard, who was very sick at the Rockford House.

12 miles.

1st. I remained at Rockford, it being Sunday. Rockford is one of the most active and prosperous villages on the Rock River, and when the contemplated railroad from Chicago to Galena shall be completed, it will double its size and population. The water power furnished by damnino- the Rock River in unequaled. It is used now to some extent, but is ca° pable of driving six times the machinery which it now does.

April 1st Remained at Rockford. Maynard died this night about 11 o'clock. He had the satisfaction of seeing his wife before ^he died, she having been sent for by the landlord of the Rockford House. How many will be cut down by disease* on this crusade to California. How many will die where they can have no friendly hand to alleviate their •sufferings, time only will tell.

'!d. Started down the Rock River— travelled thirty miles through a very good country, and stopped over nio-ht at the house of an old towns- man and fri.MuI, L. Scott, Esq. 30 miles.

Itormy and cold; went over to Mr. J. R. Merrill's, another old townsman, and spend the day.

H!i. Rained at Merrill's— visited Grand de Tour, a thriving vil- lage on the Rock River, about four miles from the house of my friend.

5th. Remaining still with Merrill. Disagreeable, stormy weather.— I his evening J. and T. B. Infills came up with team which left Haines- Sfille, April 2d.

»J JOURNAL. APRIL 1850.

Gth. Bought a korse of Merrill to-day. Bade Mr. M.'s family adieu., and felt like leaving home again, so agreeably had the time passed in the society of my frieiid and his accomplished family. Found one of our hor- es lame with a sprained ankle ; got the materials and made some lini- ment (by directions of Mr. Merrill,) and I must say it proved the most •effectual remedy for sprains, galls, and other injuries to horses, that I ev- er saw used, and we had good reason to be thankful to Mr. Merrill for im- partin<>- the knowledge of making it to us, before we got through with our trip. Ve traveled this day 24 miles down Rock river— weather pleasant, < and roads good. 2 * miles.

7th. Sunday — traveled about 25 miles, pleasant weather, but some bad roads. 25 miles-

8th. Traveled about 25 miles to Rock Island. Pleasant weather ; bc- mnninp- to get into th* track of California teams. Took in some hard bread, visited Rock Islfnd Lodge, of I. O. O. F., where I found a cordial welcome as befitted brothers. -5 miles.

April 9tk. Crossed the Mississippi to Davenport, Iowa; took in 25 bushels of corn — paid for shelled corn 38 cts. per bushel, in the ear 30 cts. Purchased also most of our other necessaries, excepting meat and flour. 1 was surprised to find Davenport and Rock Island such large places. — They lie opposite each other on the Mississippi, and about three miles above the mouth of Rock river. They are surrounded by a country of fertile soil on each side of the river, and bid fair in a few more years to become very important cities. We left Davenport at noon, and traveled to Hickory Grove, Scott co. — roads very bad, with a snow storm towards night, 14 mile9-.

10th. Left Hickory Grove in the morning and made 25 miles to Tip- ton, the county seat of Cedar county. Roads very bad, mud deep, mostly prairie, but o-ood land. We got sloughed once to-day, and had to carry our loads on°our backs. We found Tipton full of California teams, and had to let our horses stand out for the first time, although it was a cold disagreeable night, 25 miles-

1 1th. Left Tipton in the morning and reached Cedar River about noon —found the road bad enough, but better than it had been for a couple of days past We ferried across the Cedar river and drove a few miles, and put up with a crowd of California emigrants at the log house of an Irishman by the name of Nolan, a clever man, who did the best his slen- der means permitted to make us comfortable. During the night it rained and snowed, and our horses had an uncomfortable time of it, and we did not fare much better, as there were eleven of us camped on the floor of a log shanty, with the chinking pretty well knocked out, so that the wind, rain and snow had a free sweep amongst us. 15 miles.

l'2th. Very windy and cold— started on account of our horses, and drove twelve miles, to Iowa City, where we arrived about noon, after one of the most disagreeable day's drive I ever experienced. We laid over the rest of the day on account of the wind. We here found quite a num ber of our Lake co. friends,who had got here in advance of us. 1 2 miles.

13th. Remained in Iowa City; the wind still high and the weather very cold. Iowa City is quite a" place, with a population, as I am told, of about 2500. It is the scat of p-overnment for the State of Iowa, which

JOCRNAL, APRIL 1850. ^

is its only recommendation. It is situated on the Iowa river, which is nav- igable at high water for steamboats of a small class. The' State House will be a very handsome building when finished; it is built of hewed stone, on the bank of the Iowa river, and when the work is properly fin- ished will do honor to the State. This is a gathering point for California teams, and the town is now full of them lying bye on account of bad , weather. It is supposed there are 100 wagons here now, and they keep •>ming; besides, there are numbers wind bound at the Cedar river

We are stopping at Swan's Hotel, the best house in the city, the re- gister of which shows the names of great numbers of our town and county people who started before us — and more are coming after. This afternoon another team, or the advance guard of it, from our town came up. We' now begin to find every thing higher as we get farther advanced towards the frontiers. Corn is worth here fifty cents a bushel, and report says that towards Council Buffs there is no feed for horses and cattle of any ' kind or at any price.

14th. Sunday. We sttt lie over; the weather has become more mod- orate, though it is still colP, the wind has gone down, so that it is more comfortable travelling, consequently most of the teams have left town •m their route. They stretclfroff across the prairie this morning as far as the eye can reach, quite an army of themselves; what we shall find when we get to the Missouri riyer, it is impossible to tell; judo-ino- from present appearances there will be one of the largest armies cono-r^gated that were ever got together at one time on this continent. Most of the the teams that go to-day head /for St. Joseph, the prospect beino- bet- ter on the road that way, and after they get there, for feed for teams than on the Council Bluffs route. We are all in too much of a hurry, for there is no probability of our being able to leave the frontiers before the I Oth of May, for want of feed, consequently we shall have to tarry two weeks at some point, and we think it best lie" bye at several different points than all at once.

April 15th. Monday. Left Iowa City this morning, for Washington, Bounty seat of Washington co. Country mostly roling prairie for° the' first 15 miles; soil very good, and good road, being the military road built by Government. Streams all bridged with the best bridges that I have seen in Iowa. The balance of the road to Washington — having left the military road — is very bad; no bridges ; got sloughed in a creek,occasioned by our hindmost evener breaking; after unloading we got our wagon out with one span of horses. This creek was within about a mile and a half >f Washington. I think there is no better evidence of the want of enter- prise in the inhabitants, than to find such places unbridged on main roads near villages. We went on with one span of horses, but it beino- very ark we got sloughed again, and had to leave our wagon and go on°to the Jilage, where we arrived cross and hungry about eight o'clock, having 5 miles, and had the hardest day's work since we left home. How- ever, we found an obliging landlord, which made up somewhat fo- our trouble. The country for the last part is flat prairie and very wet. I should think it worthless. 28 miles.

16. Unloaded our wagon and got it out of the mud again this morning A:, Carted for Brighton, Washington co. 1 1 miles. Country rolling, the best

.HHK.\AI APRIL 1850.

land on the cast .side of the Skunk river, that I had seen in Juwa, being rolling openings. Crossed the Skunk river on a, ferry. Arrived at Brigh- ton about 2 o'clock, P. M. ; commenced snowing soon after, and we had oue of the hardest snow storms of the season. Continued snowing until midnight. The town is full of California teams, some going to Council Bluffs, and some to St. Joseph. 11 mile 5

17th. Laid over at. Brighton. Snow this morning about two inches deep; the day pleasant but cool; the wind in the North Arest. Brighton is quite a small village, has three or four stores, one steam saw mill, be- sides a fair share of mechanics and other business men. We found good accommodations, with the worthy landlord, Mr. Yates, and. spent a pleas- ant day. The snow went off by noon, but left the roads muddy.

18th. Left Brighton this morning for Fairrield, Jefferson co., where we arrived without accident, but found the roads muddy ; weather warm and showery, most like spring of any day this month. 15 miles.

•'lOth. Stopped last night at the Eagle Hotel, and I must say it was the nastiest hole I ever got into, and everyth^ig else was in perfect keep- ing, and to make matters even worse, the Widlord charged the highest bill that we had paid on the road.

Started this morning for lowaville, sixteen miles, where we arrived .about four o'clock, P. M., and put up for the night. (By the way, I found an old townsman and school mate in Fairlield, that I had not seen for thir- teen years, — Ezra Brown, Esq., District Attorney for that judicial dis- trict, and editor of a paper there. Of course I stopped to visited him an hour or two, and then passed on on this journey of time. Shall we ever meet again ?)

20th7 Crossed the Desmoines river this morning. This, as the Hosiers say, is a right smart chance of a river, between two and three hundred yards wide, and would be navigable for steamboats one hundred miles above here, if it were not for the dams below, of which I understand there arc nine. lowaville is situated on the bank, and is only a hamlet of log huts, with a grocery or two, but has a steam mill building, and one in operation on the other bank. We crossed on a ferry — charge 75 cts. Most of our route to-day lay through the timber, and the best timber too, I have seen in Iowa, but we have had dreadful road?, the worst, in fact, on the journey.

We arrived at Drakesville about four o'clock and put up for the night, although we could get no"roughnes"for our team, (as they call hay here ;) in fact we are getting where we find but little hay or grain. Matters look squally ahead, no hay, and grass not an ell high, and growing downwards at that. Grain we care nothing about as we have twenty days feed on bread, which will be more than we can consume before we reach St. Joseph.

20th. Drakesville is a small village of log houses,with a storc.blacksmith shop, <tc. it is situated in Davis county. The inhabitants I understand are mostly Campbelitcs, or Disciples. They had a meeting to-day, and are having one this evening. There is a lodge of the Sons of Temper- ance here, too, who are having their meeting over my head. I did not ^xpect to find anything of the kind in this back country. Good speed te

JOURS'AL, APRIL i860. ' «

them. I understand they have twenty members, and have two or three to initiate to-night. on m;W

9lBt T.5,;^ °,-^ of n,n1^^:n. :*!.-• Q, , . , "V

-\ Sunday, remained all day.—

.. — ~~ „„« „ .^.. ,,o.B uapuzcu in a mud-hole to-day by a Disciple

preacher. Got no roughness, as the people here call hay ; our horses had to live on corn, in consequence of which we foundered one.

22u. Lo.fi Dr.i.cville this morning-, had one of the most muddy road son te route Camped at night for the first time, on a small brook; could get Ivi.! t . on* rl«..» .,,..,;..; -.1 . . o

iy miles, passed or.e small village of log bouses, (Unionvillc) and capped ithm four miles of Centreville, county seat of Appanose co. 20 miles 23d. 1 assed Centreville this day, and made 18 miles over some of the •worst roads 1 ever saw in the western states.

Though the country generally is the best I have seen in Iowa, beinr. we 1 timbered, and excellent prairie, I do not like the water, it is too milky. .No hay— camped by a run. 18 m;]es

24th. Heard a wild turkey, gobbler near our camp, for the first time Jonathan started after him.but did not get a shot athim. We are now at noon within 30 rods of the Missouri state line, and ri^ht glad are we to pet t of Iowa. Have been in company the last two days with 3 teams from Mineral 1 omt, \\ is. The weather to-day is very pleasant & warm ; the war- , mest day we have had this spring. We find some green grass to-day We have a good road with the exception of one bad creek. One of our com- ades got his horses down in the mud and went back to roll him ouf the rest of us passed without much trouble. We traveled ten, miles into Missouri, and camped by a small stream. We here saw wild turkeys for the first time. The country is mostly prairie, and very good. 20 mil'es.

!5th. Very warm and pleasant ; made about twenty miles over a plea- sant country, rather uneven, diversified with woods and prairie thinly settled Saw several wild turkeys; there appears to be plenty of such I1 Sarae here" 20 miles

26th. Passed through heavy timber to-day for most of the way — Crossed the north and middle fork of Grand river, and passed the villa

1 rmceton, which is a small hamlet of log houses about one half of whici are groceries. Tried to buy some Hour— found but an 100 weight in th. , village, and they asked $4 for that. I concluded I would not take it ft two reasons: First, if they had but one cwt. in the village, they n^ede | themselves; and next, I did not like to be sh:;ved well enough to pa- that price. Iney asked 6l 50 per bushel for corn.

Uncle Jo, one of our comrades fr-.m Mineral Point, and myself, wcrt I, turkey hunting last nifiht (by moonlight) We rambled some eiht or ten miles, and got back about 2 o'clock in the morning, minus turkeys not , having seen one.

The day has been excessively warm, and we are in hoprs of havir. ss soon, which would be welcomo as our horses have h;id nntlp-- Hay kind but dry prairie grass, which we cut ourselves (and some nijVh we could not ^t that) for the last Imndml miles, and wo do not e

• Had jiisy mure. We cannot camp now without doin-r it in a jam Th, • are some 30 or 40 wagons ,-amped around us r.ow, oxen, horses, t j, e are camped to-night ..n the Middle Fork of Grand river. 20 miles

JOURNAL APRIL I860.

WO iiau ;i uvavv DUWW«M -- - o

_.:...i ...„., in t]ie north-west, and cold. We left ou nadc 20 miles. We passed one small villa; nemanj.*.....*! ,u the last, i. e. groceries. Have passed throu ful country to-day.alternately timber and prairie some of it has been sett eleven years, but we cannot buy a loaf of bread, a dozen eggs, or any hay or straw, or in fact anything to eat for man or beast with the excep , ion of bac«, and that raised itself. We were lucky enough to lay in supp hes fo ,n and beast before we got into this region. It is a great pity tn»' i is a slave state; were it a free state, so that ^f*™*,*! ould settle in it, all this great region of valuable lai ' improved, and there is no part of the western counir --• -™ • northern part of Missouri in beauty and fert.h'" and watered than Illinois, and is rather more ui is necessary to make good farming land.

28th. Sunday. We started again this roor miles to the main branch of the Grand nver.which This is the last timber before crossing a prairie go on intending to camp on the prairie, but the 0

north-west) we concluded to lay over until to-morrow Our camping ,, round looks like the camp of an army. Horses, picketed tents, with the star spangled banners flying, wagons standing around, while 1, -ing by the side of logs and trees are brawny,sun-b- taliing their ease. Within thirty minu* wagons camped. Since then they ha continually. How many there are and still they come. Bi'* this is 1 St. Joseph, which we exp... from this place, we are tolt a mile from here, is Gentryville, the co a rio-ht smart place, as they say out this ... two taverns, with a fair sprinkling of stores ai think the water power very good for this country, and capable of supply-

tUnOtlaS Loft our camping ground and traveled 14 miles to St. Joseph. Weather very cold anAmdy-no grass nor hay. We have .traveled 1200 miles without jrrass or hay, but have cut dry P^~Jff«*"*2 "*£ find it, Camjed in a ravine half a mile north of St Joseph- J5t Joseph is quite1 a village, and doing H groat deal of business at this time^ But the way they fleece California em.grants is worth noticing. I shou advise all going "the overland route to take every thing along with then that they can of small weight, as every little thing costs three or 1 mesas mu.b here a. at home The markets are filled with broken

JOURNAL, APRIL 1850.

JOWD horses jockeyed up for tbe occasion, and unbroken muK-s, which they assure you are handy as sheep. It is the greatest plane for gam bling, and all other rascality that I was ever in. We have to stand guard over our horses as much as if we were in the Indian country. It fs said that one or two men have been shot by the emigrants while in the act of stealing horses. Here let me before leaving the State of Missouri say one wordln relation to the country. We traveled about one hundred and eighty miles through the north-west part of the State which is mostly unsettled. We found the country the best I had ever seen in the great Mississippi Valley, and I had seen a great share of it. It is ajjerfecl paradise for the agriculturist, the manufacturer and the hunter. The soil is warm and fertile, the wild prairie grass growing as high as a man's waist on the uplands. An abundance of good timber skirts the streams. The land is roling, approaching the hilly, and wi-11 watered by rivers, brooks, and springs of pure clear water, running over gravelly or rocky beds in clear banks, free from sloughs or marshes. The streams furnish an abundance of the best water power suitable for driving all kinds of machinery. The prairies and woods are tilled with abundance of deer, wild turkeys and other game, and of wild honey. The river bottoms un- covered with endless quantities of plums, sweet grapes, and various othef wild fruits in the greatest abundance. Nature has seemed to lavish her best gifts on this country in. the greatest profusion; yet with all it remains a wilderness, only inhabited by a few straggling squatters whose whole aim is to raise what corn and bacon they can consume, and kill a sufficien- cy of game to supply their daily wants. Why is it so? Is it because it is one or 200 miles back from the Mississippi ? This cannot be the reason.for thou- sands are now emigrating farther back into the wilds of Minesota. Is it not owing to, and one of the fruits of, the blighting curse of slavery ?- the driving of free men of the northern states to emigrate to more uncon- genial soil and climate, rather than settle in a slave state. This is a ques- tion which all Missourians who love their State should investigate. The west, and north-west part of Missouri is capable of supporting a popula- tion larger than the whole present population of the State. It is a coun- try superior in soil, climate, water, timber and other natural advantages, to any portion of the great Mississippi Valley.yet it is unsettled,and apparent- ly will be for a long time,the current of emigration being turned into Iowa, Minesota and Wisconsin, simply because men raised in free states do not like the idea of settling in slave states. Would it not be better for Mis- souri to abolish slavery, and thereby cause her millions of acres of rich lands to "be settled by intelligent farmers, with villages springing up on ev- ery water course, than to retain her few thousands of slaves, the profit of which to the owner is really questionable? But I do not intend to write a lecture on slavery, but these thoughts would intrude themselves upon me as I was traveling through this beautiful wilderness country; for I can say with the greatest sincerity that I know of no part of the world that it is so desirable to locate in as this, but with this objection the coun- try never will be settled densely, for the simple reason that emi- grants from the South prefer going to a more southern climate, where their negroes can be made more profitable raising cotton

JOURNAL, MAY 1850.

and sugar, to going into the west part of Missouri, and emigrants from

the North object to settling in a slave state.

May 1st. Remained encamped as before. Weather more moderate

but too cold for grass to grow.

2d. Remain camped as before. Sent down the river five miles and

got 30 bushels of corn in the ear at 90 cents per bushel ; bought 1 1 bush- s of shelled corn at the camp for one dollar per bushel, which we got

ground into meal. Commenced raining in the afternoon, and rained "all

n'ght ; we had a very disagreeable time of it.

3d. Got our stores mostly on board and crossed the Missouri and

drove six miles to the Bluffs, and camped. We found the whole six miles

a camping ground, and a good sized city of tents at the Blufls probably

six thousand men. Weather still cold. Q mi\es

4th. Remain camped at the same place. Went back to the town ard

got the remainder of our supplies; had a very warm day, but a cold

night before it — ice made |ths of an inch thick. 5th. Sunday. Remained camped at the same place; had a pleasant

day. There was a funeral down at the lower end of the camp to-day; it

was about a mile from our camp, I did not learn the particulars. Met at night to try and organize a company ; chose a committee and adjourned until the next night at five o'clock.

6th. Remained at the same place. Went to town to try the Post Of- fice again before we started, but found nothing. By the way, I forgot to say that we are in the Nebraska Territory now, and on the Indian lands. The Indians do not like it very well that the whites camp on their ground on account of cutting timber. (There are about 500 of them camped near us.) The men met again to organize; I was not present, but they made out nothing. We concluded to go with the same company that we had been in : Trimble, Sublett, Ainsly, Welch and Trammel & Co irom Mineral Point, Wisconsin.

7th. Had a bad night last night; it rained and snowed nearly all ni^ht. Had about two inches of snow on the ground this morning. It cleaned off about 10 A. M., when we struck our tent and started on the long jour- ney. Weather came off fine and warm; find some grass but none to amount to anything; still have to cut dry grass. We made 20 miles to- day, and camped on a small creek. We have nine teams in company that expect to go through together, although we are not organized, viz : (be- sides myself) Thomas Tnmble.and William Sublett & Co.,Stephen Ainsly and party, Litwiler and company, and Daughterly and company. We have mechanics of every trade," and various musicians, and while I am writing, one of the company is enlivening the solitude with a fine toned key bugle ;^ one ought to be here in the wilderness to know the value of music. We have 37 men in our party, and if the other teams come up 1 join us we shall have 41. This I think is a large enough party, as we cannot camp any where after this without being near other companies, several of whom an- nmv camped above and below us. We expect to go as t;.r as the Indian Mission to-morrow. 12 miles.°

cth. Made 14 miles over a rather hilly country, and passed the Indian Mission, and camped tvo miles from ii on a creek* We found some fine ar/ns at this mission ; it was a pleasing si^ht to us to sec the wheat fields;

JOURNAL, APRIL 1850.

hey appeared to compare well with the wheat fields of Illinois. Passed orae dead horses on the road to-day ; also some graves of those buried ast year. Several teams came up and joined us this night 14 miles.

9th. Traveled about 25 miles to-day over a prairie country, passed ieveral more craves made last year. We have not dQn any fresh ones •et, but found~more dead horses. This is the result of feeding too much iorn with no hay or grass. The grass seems to be getting a little better is we "-et on. Have had a very hot day, and dry, and good roads with the exception of two or three mud holes. Some more teams came up and camped with us — we turned oft' from the road and camped on a small creek. 25 miles

10th. Had 21 wagons in our tram this morning. >Ve call ail lianas it 4 o'clock A. M. now, and start about £ past 6. Had some rain last lio-ht, when the wind shifted to the north-west, very cold, and we hare iad one of the best roads to-day that I ever saw ; plank roads are no •omparison to it, and have passed" over the most beautiful prairie country a the world, with little timber, and that dwarf burr oak, but the soil is >qual to the best in Illinois. We turned cff from the road about one mile 2d camped on a branch, about 3 o'clock, P. M. The grass is still impro- vinf We have about 75 men in our company, which is too many, so many cannot agree. While I am writing, two of them are very near fight- ing, and the captain, Wm. Soublett stands between them, as this is the onlr means of keeping them apart. We cannot go on long with so many, I think Passed some more graves, and dead horses to-day ; m fact we we expect to every day. It looks bad to see so many at this end of the

• route 25 mlles>

llth Drove 22 miles to-day. Passed a Chicago wagon broken down ' at a creek; Hurrunin, of Waukegan, belonged to the party. The coun- try is prairie, without timber, excepting a few scattering trees on the creeks. We were delayed some time by a train of ox teams at a creek ; 1 while we were watering I fell asleep, and came very near being left

• behind the team. Ford, came back and sroused me. I stood guard last 1 night, which was the cause of my being so sleepy; passed several dead

horses, and the graves of many buried last year. 22 miles.

1 2th. Sunday! Not having a good camping spot we concluded to trav-

• el and made 30 miles, and reached Blue river. Here we found a large

• city of tents, and preaching. There were probably 2000 men camped within two miles of the crossing; and here we found wagons broken down

: last year, with irons of those burnt. Voted two teams out of the tram ' this morning for disobedience of orders. The night was cold, but the 1 day was warm. We found some last year's graves, besides the usual .' amount of dead horses. This point is called 120 miles from St. Joseph, | but I think it is more. Roads good.

Blue River, or as it is commonly called, tho Big Blue, is a beautifu. 1 clear stream, about eight rods wide, and at this time about three feel deep. It is a favorite camping ground for California emigrants. It has a skirt of timber, mostly cotton wood, from 8 to 100 rods wide along its west bank, and generally plenty of grass may be found, ever the emigrant is detained here for two or three weeks by 1 e higii water, when his only consolation is in hunting antelope and wild tur-

JOURNAL, MAY 1850.

kies, of which game there is an abundant supply on this river, and m fashing. We caught a few small cat fish after we had camped, but did not hare time to try the qualities of the stream for fish to any great extent This stream is in the Pawnee country, and consequently I would advise all emigrants whfhunt remote from the road and their trains, to be on their guard,for the Pawnees are a very treacherous,hostile race, and would not be likely to omit of an opportunity offered to strip a solitary hunter and send him in minus his gun, clothes, and perfectly na- ked, for they seem to be a people much given to such practical jokes, aa some who have traveled this road can testify. 30 miles'.

13th. Made about 25 miles to-day, but found but little grass. Have had a good road, and a very hot day. Litwiler and myself scouted to- day for a good camping ground, and found one where there was good grass and water, but no wood except a few dry willows, which we made answer our wants for the night. We had the misfortune to burst one of our inside hub bands whilst wedging up the boxes this evening, which al- though a small matter in the States, jr.et may prove a very serious one out here on the plains, two hundred miles from a blacksmith's shop, as it may be the means of losing our wagon. 25 miies.

14th. Made an early start and traveled 28 miles; passed a new made grave (made this morping) of a young man who accidentally shot him- .hrough the head, whilst in the act of taking a rifle out of the wag- on with the muzzle towards him. He was from Illinois. We have had a dry, hot day, and the dust has been very annoying to us. Litwiler and myself scoured the creek bottoms to-day again in search of irons of wag- ons that had been burnt, and succeeded in finding some hub bands, with which I repaired our wagon so that it answered as well as before it was broken. We turned off from the road this evening about a mile, and camped by a branch of the Little Blue river, where we found a plentiful supply of grass, wood and water. Litwiler killed a wild turkey this eve- ning, which was very fat We have a beautiful camping ground as the heart could desire; our wagons are circled, with the tents on the out- side hke a Tartar village, on the side of a gen tie sloping knoll, at the base f which stretches off to the river, a beautiful grove of timber through which runs a clear sparkling brook made by a copious spring which arises from the ground only a few rods from our encampment. Our horses are feeding about in sight on the side hills, cropping the rich grass, an abund- ance of which they have not had before since we started on this long jour- ney. Indeed we look, if we except the wagons, more like a wandering band of Tartars than a company of christians bound on a business excur- ion; and the appearance of our men does not tend to destroy the illu- 5ion, as sunburnt and bearded with their belts stuck full of bowie knives and revolvers, they lounge about in groups on the ground around the » nres, or busy themselves amongst the horses, or in the various sports which are got up by the travelers on the plains to while away the time. But it requires a more able pen than mine to describe, vividly, a e like this. To sec it and feel it in all its beauty, one must be hund- reds of miles from civilization, out ou those great ocean like prairies, vJiere the sight of a tree is welcome to the traveler as the sight of a sail .0 the mariner when he has been for a long time traversing an unknown

JOURNAL, MAY 188

Hem«5lbethcre.onabatayur^e,

sings of grass, :

the plains holds essenl

scene of this kind, but

beauties of nature in

wVld rive a life-like picture of such

«fl? Remained at the same camp to-d

make some repairs on the wa-- have been hunting ~ report having seen have brought in noth, in with a back loa ing any other mea - very necessary garment an Perhaps by night they may succeed change I have been busy repairing the hub t equally busy, shoeing ^ *^± cam Me. e

t of the men >eing noon, and wives, &c. ; but who has just come is shirt, he not hav- ed himself of that

hileotc

tfending to other

t and S* tea, (»

« I went

16th. Traveled zo ""^A with sandy and rocky K

face of the country is pramc di^ed wit ^ ^ s

no water fit for man to drink, althoxign tner de8ttorte- of timber

the horses may drink as a last resort. Ihe co y yolcanoes and

and has every appearance of having been JJJ drive that we h taking it altogether, ^^^ Syi and the dust has been

We found a company camped £ *nc Ac ^^ ^

.^j :r « vom falls m that time to turn throuch, 01 r

Bended with greater respon

JOURNAL, MAY 1850.

.

£^l£±: H°WeVCr there ™ no he]P for * thc ™<"P»°r »«- lie voice "anTg r7 ac(}uiescence' ~ I was forced to yield to the "p We struck on T rd;n^ e,ntfred upon the discharge of my duties. where we becal f. " ,half paSt ** A" M" and <™ssed the branc^ Cpened to ,T K im"°luniary **"««<* cf a terrible accident ^-

wePannr0achefi 7f!f • '^ fr0m ab°VG US abuut the time weleft rur com, V , ma n Td WG Were alongside ^ them, and some of rpS0"L!" li^f f^'ndsln the °ther trftin' both train. w*e fbelon ™L t ° tn7 d'V '•Vnv™t''"«- A few nun.ents afterwards "g to the other train, frightened the mults belonging to one vv, gons, ahead of wk ere a span of high spirited horses, cau- umneduno' on. f0"' ' :'Un and ron- ^on instantly the dog

orfto C f r i h* T" ' "' "d bk ^ ^^ and add'ng muc^

the too of ? wl T , *i i "I*™ Was loaded to the toP of the bows, on me un£ Tl ^ ^ P™ wh° reined the horses and m«^s for some 1 a hue broke, when they turned down a steep gull,, turning the

JffiSfttT a?d burrng the driver underthe ^ the lead-

\hpi f6 C 'f fr°m the mules' and the latter turned °^r and eb^n tlu nff fef'the,re7e^^m their original position, the nigh one •ing on the off side, and the off one on the nigh side. The horses ran

attach'edr I0"' ^ ^ mules nin in anothcr' ^ the forward whed, " '^ the d° w

e the dogs were shot, although frequently s Srlun^'ll "th CaUSht ^

walon T ^ '?' ,"? T th°Ught We should find him ki»ed outright The wagon was completely broken to pieces, and they were compelled to e

fnTver saw" hirTT ^/""f «d to take' care of ZFnjured m n." hdydog I wa, to!d had killed fm* for theLia o,;«t^ S^the"

JOURNAL, MAY 1850. li

look out for treachery. We saw some buffalo to-day — one was killed last night a short distance above our camp. We camped this night on the Little Blue, where we found plenty of grass. Litwiler and Ranahan killed two antelope this evening, which furnished our camp with fresh meat again. We found plenty of signs of beaver this night, our sentries hearing them splashing their tails in the water nearly all night; on the banks of the river were trees one foot in diameter cut down by them.

22 miles.

1 9. Sunday. We concluded to travel to-day. Left the Blue for the last time about noon. A man had three horses and $500 stolen last night by his own guard, who left him with his wife and two other women with- out a team. We took in water at the last place that we struck the Blue river, having 21 miles to travel without good water. Met a train com- ing from Robadeau's trading post, with five wagon loads of buffalo skins and other peltries. We stopped and wrote letters and sent back to the States by them, for which we paid them 25 cents for each letter. Robadeau himself was along, riding in a nice covered carriage, smoking his pipe, enjoying all the comfort imaginable. 25 miles.

20th. We camped last night on the prairie without wood or water, on- ly some rotten slough water, bad enough to poison a horse. We had a wind storm, with heavy thunder, just at night, but no rain. It came up- on us instantly without warning, and before we could secure our tents they were all blown down but two, which were protected by, and secured to the wagons. It was terrific, raising loaded wagons on the side next to the wind, two feet from the ground; we expected they would be blown over, and nothing saved them from being overturned but their loads, for -if they had nut been loaded they would have been swept away before the wind like feathers. Some of the time it was impossible for a man to keep his feet. I never saw such a storm of wind in the States, and hope I may not see another on this journey. We drove 26 miles and camped on an island in the Platto, or Nebraska river, about two miles below Fort Kearney, where we found plenty of grass and fuel. Saw some antelope, deer and buffalo to-d<iy, but did not try to kill any. 26 miles.

21st. Remained over to repair damages, and to cut our wagon boxes off and make them shorter. Had some rain in the morning. A report is current here this morning that a train was cut oft' by the Indians on Sun- day night, (where we baited Sunday noon.) A company of dragoons have left the Fort to-day to investigate the matter. Fort Kearney is conside- rable of a fort, built of adobies or unburnt brick. It is built in the form of a paralelogram, the centre forming a square which is defended by a park of artillery. /The garrison consists of about 250 soldiers, who seem to be under excellent discipline. The commander's name I did not learn. The whole affair seems to be well calculated to keep the Indians in check, but I think would be of very little account in repelling an attack made by scientific troops, supported with good artillery.

22d. Started again this morning, traveled 22 miles up the Platte riv- er. Our road lay along the Platte bottom, and was very good, but some- what slippery from the rain that fell day before yesterday. The Platte bottom on this side of the river, is^from 10 to 15,miles wide, being ter- minated on the side opposite from the river by high sand hills or bluffs.

"'1J10.AI.. MAY I!-'/)".

The river itself is about two miles wide, with a swift current, but filled up with innumerable islands and sand bars.

23d. Our road still leads up the Platte bottoms. The land is verj good, and we lind some grass, best where there is no wood, except some willows and cotton wood on the islands in the river. We saw i ..uie ante- lope and bulFalo to-day, but they were back on the h!u(^, and our men thought too much of their spare horses to follow '. -~> miles.

24th. Continue still up the Plane bottom. We i'ov.nd some excellent springs of cool water, which were a treat to us, as wo ha\e had a very hot day, and our water has all along been muddy river water. We ue.re compelled to use buffalo chips to-day for fuel, there being no wood, i suppose many of my lady readers vould rather ii;r:i up their no.-es at a hoe cake baked on buffalo chips,but I assure them I s.aw ladies, who were genteel, that seemed to eat cakes baked with this fuel with great apparent relish. The buffalo chips used are drop] ings < f buffalo the year previ- ous. They become entirely dry, and make \eryp.od fuel, and are the main depeudancc for cooking Y«..>r tl:e next 800 miles. MM! ur.til we get into the sage country. One of our men waded • day

while we were baiting. The water was about three feet deep, except on the sand bars, where it was often not over six inches deep. The width of the river is about one mile. We began to lind alkali on t!;o surlacc of the ground to-day. In some places it was half an i::<-h i.i depth, and tastes like air slacked sabvratus. We found but little grass on this day' s travel, but a very good, level road, and saw some antelope. 25 miles.

25th. Weather still hot, with cold nights. The wind changes about midnight, and blows cold from the west until noon of the next day, in the afternoon it dies away, leaving the atmosphere hot and sultry The wind suddenly changed this evening, and blew a perfect tornado. It would have made a 'parson splithis sides with laughter if he could have refrained from holding the hair on his own head long enough to laugh — to have seen the the perfect confusion and lurmoil which our camp was thrown into when it struck us. Tents were Hying in the air, men chasing their lint, with the most persevering energy ; some were holding down their tents to keep them from tumbling down, while others were tumbling them down to keep them from being torn into ribbons, and others in the greatest ex- citement were securing the covers of their wagons to prevent their being blown away; in truth it was one of the most dolighti'ui scenes of confu- sion, turmoil and dismay that could be imagined. For our part, we had noticed the coming change a few moments before it came about, and had secured our tent to our wagon, so that it weathered the gale; ours and one other were the only ones in the camp that remained standing when the blow passed over. The tornado lasted about thirty minutes, but during that time it leveled every tent in every encampment in sight of us, (but the two in our camp.) This is the second time we have had such a blow out, but we expect to find more of them before we get through. The grass is poor to-day, and no wood except willows on the islands and buf- falo chips, of the latter of which there are a great plenty. 28 miles.

26th. Sunday. A part of our train concluded to lie over to-day, but the majority being against it, produced a split in the train,owing to which 10 wagons left us and drove on, leaving seven wagons behind This w

JOtTRNAl, -V

•onsidf>r no detriment, although the men belonging to those wagons that left us are all of them whole-hearted, noble-souled companions. Small trains travel faster than lar^-r ones, and the difficulty of finding good c pin..- grounds for a smalltrain is not so great as for alarge one. NN • ' \MT iorry"to part with tlu-in, but we parted in friendship and peace, as f ought t-> do on this journey. Some of them wish to travel \ mie, which is 330 miles from Fort Kcarncy.before stopping, but we wish to rest our horses one day in every seven, and are determined whenever we can find o-rass to make that day the Sabbath. We are all very busy keeping the Sabbath., which is dune here after this fashion : »xerci« of the morniag, shaving and cleaning \\ith a plunge bath in the Flatte river. Forenoon, setting wagon tire, repairing wagons. Afternoon, si incr hors-:s, washing clothes' .fee. Arc. K veiling, rest— which is ad the tun we "ct to rest. Our stopping days are no resting days to us, but our hor- ses need it,— they look well now, and we mean to keep them looking wel. if we c'iii. Wo have throe blacksmiths in our train, and one wagon ma leer. We set the tire on Ainsly's wagon this morning in a manner that would be now 10 blacksmiths in the States. Not having any means weldia" tin-, we took them off from the wheels, took all the felloes oil, and then put leather cottrells or rings on the spokes thereby raising the shou - der of the spoke and enlarging the -circle of the wheel, then put the ft Iocs on ao-ain, and then heated the tire, and set it as tignt as blacksmith could do, with a forge and bellows to cut and weld the ties This valley is lined with buffalo bones and carcasses, their skulls he about in every direction. One. of our men found 18 yesterday in one spot at tb foot of a hi'rh bluff. They were probably driven over the blurt by t Indians. We saw no buffalo to-day, although there were plenty ot signs thev ann.-ar to come down to the river at night to get water, and go back to the plains in the morning. The bottom is about two miles wide here.and on tht> 'bluffs may be found some few scattering cedars. Litwiler killed a noble- bu.-k to-dav. Itsh-.'.rns were in the velvet, and the meat good. H made us plenty of meat for the whole company, and some to spare. beaver dam at this place.

"7th We stvuck our tents again this morning and started. A\ e_ have had a very cold duv, so mu.-.h so that we needed great coats and mittens. and I have suffered more with cold than on any day since I started had a smart shower in the morning, which was welcome. Hie country o this day's drive looks like a huge buffalo pasture, the ground being cov- ered with buffalo chips like a farm-yard. The emigrants before us have been slaughtering them without mercy. We counted eight fresh L slaugh- tered ones within one mile distance. We were informed to-day that * Pike & Strother's train lost 25 mules and horses in a stampede last night We crossed the south fork of the Plattc this afternoon. It is about thr* fourths of a mile wide here, whl h is the south or lower ford, but we had to travel in the river at least a mile and a half, the wind and current swee- pimr us dow;i the river, so that our course lay in the form of a half circle. Th* water was about up to our wagon boies, one ol th-rn taking water

, ruling is one oi the exciting scenes of this journey, i we crossed, tb :th wagon?, men, mules and horses, ev

tonding quite across thr river One -f Out wHorjns got Stuck in th«

*(J JOURNAL, MAY 18.M/.

sand which frightened the horses, but frightened the driver more. 1 on horse back myself, I rode back to assist the driver, but in our endeav- ors to start the wagon we had our doubletree broken, owing to which ac- cident I had to go ashore and send back a spare team to help thorn out.but before the team reached the wagon, and within a few minutes after I had reached the shore, the driver came ashore, bearing in hand a tin lantern, that being (in his fright) the only thing which he could find of value, to save out of the drowned wagon, which, us he supposed, would be soon buried in the quick-sand. However, after awhile, the wagon came safely ashore, when the driver had the satisfaction of depositing his tin lantern in a place of safety again in o:ic of the boxes in the wagon. He did not rehsh much being said after that about crossing the Platte, it was a disa greeable subject, decidedly. Some of the teams were towed through the river with long ropes, with 20 or 30 men dragging at them ahead of the mules and horses, up to their middles in the water. One man was riding horseback when his horse stumbled off from a sand bar into deep water] and horse and rider both went out of sight; a dozen of us started immedi- ately for him, but before we had got to him, horse and rider both came up, the horse making for the shore, and the man fur the nearest sand bar.— The man lost his rifle and hat, which grieved him a great deal; the horse lost his rider, which he did not seem to tak,> to heart at all. We drove about two miles after crossing and camped on the bottom, with no fuel but buffalo chips. A stampede took place about sunset, of 150 head of hor- ses, mules and oxen, which was the largest stampede that we have seen or heard of. We were just cooking our supper. Our horses were qui- etly grazing around the camp; the men gathering buffalo chips for th<> night, or idly lounging about the fires, talking and smoking, and taking as much comfort as possible after our hard day's work, when down the river came a sound.as of distant thunder,yet more terrible to the ears of the prac- ticed emigrant on the plains ; instantly every man was on his feet listening to the approaching sounds faintly above the ncise could be heard the cry of stampede! stampede! and a dark mass enveloped in the dust could be seen moving down upon us with the speed of the Avind. Instantly eve- ry man sprang for the horses, knowing too well that if they were not got inside of the correll of wagons, before that moving mr.ss of terror and phrenzy came up to them they were lost. The cooks threw down their frying pans, the men their pipes, and bags of buffalo chips, and the whole plain looked more like bedlam broke loose than a quiet camping ground : some shouted and belabored the poor beasts, who already began to feel the infection, others lugged away at the longlariets of their mules who dog- ged and sullen, threw themselves on their reserved rights, and braced back on all fours with their long ears turned back and their eyes half closed, seemed to say to the unhappy knights who were so energetically tugging them along, no you don't — you can't come it, if you do, °just let us know, but in they had to go, in spite of their resolution and firmness. During this time, which occupied less space than I have been in recording it, the infuriated mass kept rushing down towards us, sweeping everything of stock kind .along with them that came in their way. The matter be- gan to look serious for us, although we had succeeded in getting all of our stock within the circle of our wagons, when suddenly, when within a quar-

ter of a mile of us they took a turn and went dashing over the hills like a torrent, and a few minutes after them went 30 or 40 men on horses wni they had secured, riding madly en to keep in sight of the terrified ani- mals; on went the mass, and on went the riders, over hill and gul through the darkness of night in their "break-neck" career, until 1 cametothe North Fork of the Platte, when fortune favored the riders, for the stampede took down the river towards the forks of the two nvi Excitement reigned through evory camp that night. Many had their stock, their sole dependence for the prosecution of their J°urn.ey> O1 even their safe return to the States. Families, men, women and child thrown out in the wilderness hundreds of miles from civilized beings, ^and their main hope ^ne. "Would those in pursuit recover the horses would thev dash on over those boundless plains in the frenzy of fear grow- ino- more frantic as they proceeded, as many had before them, until ni tare could stand no more, and then drop dead in their tracks . questions were often asked, and many were the tearful eyes that night that sought without avail rest and sleep. All night long the darkness was rendered hideous bv the blowing of horns, firing of guns, and the shout- ing of men to warn", if perchance any straggler from the pursuing party should be on his return, of the whereabouts of the camp and few were the eyes in those camps through which the stampede had taken i course that closed in sleep that night. The stampede continued down the river until it was stopped by the two rivers coming together, wnict oncchavino- checked their mad career, they were soon surrounded by t* pursuers ami safely secured, with the exception of one horse, which had broken his neck. "Reader, if you wish to realize all the anxiety and hor- ror of a stamoode, go out. in the plains hundreds of miles from help where °ouf h^s?are 'as necessary I your safety as the ^ *»»»"** at sea See amovino- body of stock coming down towards your horses snortino-. neighing, bellowing and braying, enveloped in a perfect cloud of dust making0 the°carth tremble under their feet: witness the distended nostril the o-listenino- eye, and the fierce snort and neigh of your own horse as you cling to him L dear life, and as he kicks and £•£•»»• stampede approaches, and the madness grows upon him to beak from you and join them in their mad rareer-go out and see and feel all these things, when perhaps your life hangs upon the result, and then yo have some idea of a stampede; but otherwise you cannot 20 miles

28th. We traveled up the south Fork about eight miles, when we left the river and crossed the dividing ridge between the two forks t< north branch of the Platte. The country is barren <™dsandy with no grass We saw several antelope, and had one or two good chases for them, but ,. , 12 miles.

1 29th.geWc were compelled to ascend the bluffs to-day and travel ' miles without water. Three buffalo came running towards our train day, and threatened to run through the tram, but turned their course when within about 20 rods of us. Col Sublet shot two bullets through one of them from his double shooter but did not bring him down. Mt- willer afterwards killed a bull We : topped four hours aftei • * e got to the river to get in the meat. It wa:, excellent, with *****&"" havincr a strong flavor of musk It will supply our whole tram for a v

, MAY '

beside* h-aung enough for 40 men. We have tad groat quantities of wagon* irons crams and other property thrown away, on the oad tS -day

™, w°f buffal°' aUtel°Pe and 'volves "re, soon now. 24 miles irly start this morning, and readied „

ind some tree-:; growing, which were nc,cuii.e 10 x»c *uau irum the upper ford on the South Fork, comes in at

./. Camped early and found plenty of grass, with thousands of

ind mules feeding upon it. An old Frenchman with a party dmns, is camped near us, trading with the emigrants. We 3d several good springsof water to-day. The Bluife here are rnost- y limestone, with a lew cedar trees growing upon them ; back of this they have been mostly sand bluffs. We iind alkali every day now. 22 miles. * st. We had a heavy shower last night, a perfect deluge, but it was needed for the country. was very dry. We hare passed several Indian vil ages to-day, belonging to the Yanktaw Sioux. One villas had about forty lodges in it. The Sioux are a noble race and very friendly and ap- jear to be as much civilized as their neighbors near the settlement, that is they know how to beg to perfection. They lately had a fight with the awnees, in which they were victorious, and took a great many ponies which are now feeding around the wigwams. One of them came in with a pony loaded with buffalo meat while I was in their wigwam. I saw some Indian burials, to-day. They burr on a platform ra" ' ' jround, on poles about eight feet high. " The poles are set • of a pyramid, and are fastened together at the top. where also is buna the medicine bag of the chief. The body is wrapped in buflalo robe? and a cloth made of bark, enclosing also a quantity of buffalo meat and other provisions to last him on hk journey to the spirit land, and his arrows to shoot with en the way. When all the preparation is complete, the body is laid upon the platform, to moulder or dry up as may be, in the sun, un Ml the robes get off when the ravens may linish it. This one that I went to see to-day, sm-.jit so bad that I could not approach very near to it with- out hoidmg my nose, aad then it was rery oiicnsive. It was a chief who had been killed m the recent fight with the Pawnees.

June Yrf. We had more rain lust night. Passed several snrincrs to-day and saw some scattering trees on the bluffs. We now find .oreat quanti- ties of lizards; they are small, being about throe inches long, and verv sprightly and active little things, and the boys have much fun in chasing them We passed some more Sioux and Chienes wigwams to-day ; or as the Indians themselves pronounce it, Siuk. We had a heavy wind-«*juall ; the afternoon, with some run. Country still barren, with but little raw. We camped at night in sight of the famous Chimney Rock; this 3CJUS quite a curiosity. It is composed of soft sand stone It is about one hundred and twenty paces around it at the base, and about as hicrh as tfunkcr s Hill monument, and looks very much like it at a distarce ^It an be seen at a distance of thir.ty or forty miles. We travelled one day and a iKdf after we came in sight of it, before we came opposite to it. It i by the French traders to have been much higher than at present but is wearing away every yenr hy the action of the elemeUs. The Court'

tonTI;1 TKUntybUildingSared^ irom our Damping ground

-night. Hnyare agroapofsand ife, resembling the

JOURNAL MAY 1850.

which they are named from, and are curiosities worth seeing. They arc about twenty miles fr.,m us, perhaps more, but they look as if they not three miles distant. All distances here are deceptive the eye reac ly taking in obj,-rts at a distance of twenty or thirty miles, the atafl

phere being so clear.

2d Sundav L -»id over to-day, to air our loads and rest our teams.— \.U the wajrons but Litwlers and mess left us to-day, being- anxious t jret alon- °We shaii probnt.lv overtake them at St. Laring, which is about Hinetv mihs fr-.m this place. ' The weather is pleasant and warm with fair chance for grass. Fuller n.r.d J. Ingalls undertook to go to House Rock this j.ficrnoon, which looks t-> be baf a few miles from its, but after travclm- about twelve milos they tho«fct it looked quite ES far as when they started, and they turned back ; «hey got into the camp about eleven o'clock at night *

3d Drove twenty-nve miles, und passed the_ Chimney Rock. \V e camped about two miles back from the river on 4he bottom, and about four miles from a hr^e bluff resembling the formation which we named Fort Whiter, from its white appearance. Seven/of the boys went ou on a wild goose chase to the bluffs for wood, there being af ew « ceda-s in sight which appeared to be not over Iwo miles distant; hey started about four P. M. andgot back atten o'clo^t n.ght Prf ^vf fa' tirrued with no fuel, being unable to reach the cedars.

% * Had a heav'y raiuVt night, and got a late start but drove thirty miles and caught up with the rest of our company who left us on Sunda We passed Robadove's trading post, at Scott'*, bluffs and camped about two miles from it at a spring of clear cold wattr gfebing ««*«£««* This ought to be called the Rock of Horeb, situjted as it is m ad land. Our road to-day led back from the mer.ajl we have had a scarcity of water for our horses. /\ .

We have had a dry, hot day, with great seafcif.of grass. The country is crettingmore barren. Found an indifteren^camying ground.

6th. Passed another French trading pSst to-day with its .usual accon paniment of Indian wigwams. Litwiler swaped/horses with an o d In^ dian who took a fancy^to his horse because \lfy white, and Ins squaw wanted it, he said. We reached Fort Laramie'.atfout four o clod i P. M., forded thi Laramie rjver, and camped about two piles from th fort or i the bluff, the authorities at the Fort prohibiting emigrants from camping ioe,

th7thalleRema5ned this day at the camping ground to write home, tbag ;;' being a post office at the Forfe. There are a great many wagons this8point by many taking to packing. Thousands of dollars wo^d t, property being thrown away, but anything w,e wish to buy, we , h deep payPdouble price for. Fort Laramie is situated^ the junction of hMiles. amie and Platte rivers, and surrounded.by high bluffs, being ^f"*** of the Black Hills. It is 630 miles from St Joseph, and 500 from a« i no« cil Bluffs. The fort is built mostly of adobies,or un burnt brick and res<. Huge

Fort Kearney. The garrison consists of about 300 men at this triers the

The CouncilBluffs road comes in at this place and the soldiers 1

rv across the Platte by which they make conftderable money ouUid to r>

• funs, n

•road and

JOLKNAL, JUM; ib.M'.

Illl'll I M n/),l !•-(., ../I rm^.. :,,»« ,. r.-_,l t 1

> buy a library fur the ; ,«.,«, ^vv-iuill near the fort, aUhough the fort lack Hllls> sotne 10 miles distant from

8th. Struck our tents this morning anigtartcd on the Black Hills road The majority of the teams have gone upWhe Piatte bottoms iVp h-uv

found CtnnA ^-oco tn.A-.lv <lKlln/l.-in/»n r,f ™^J U (Y 1

n-ood buihilo grass, the best we . liles from the fort; saw a flock

01 mountain sheep, but they were so wild that we could not get a shot n them. Saw an antelope— had a grand chase fur him, but he eluded ^ and got away. We camped at night at a beautiful stream of water in a romantic valley, with plenty of wood and water. One of Loyd's men shot a sage hen which is a 'species of grouse somewhat larger than a prairie hon. Ike flesh of the>ige hen is excellent cavory eating We are now in the sage country ; it resembles our cultivated sao-C) but is more bitter and grows about two feet high; also great abundance of prickly pear the' ground being sometimes covered for acres in one bed. ' The prickly pear covers the ground here* to that extent that we are frequently compelled to lear away with our spades space to erect our tents, it not bein- particu- larly agreeable to the seat of honor to sit down ou the long sharp thorns Inis must be a healthy country.although a barren cold one, being constaut- 7 mi?lg ^ T' Thl>h <*" be seen ut a11 times in the y^r. 26 miles. ETti ThY°ad m°rQing led UP thc valkT of the creek about sk mles, then struck across to another creek eight .miles; after bavin* the creek we found a spnng of good water; five miles from this spring we came to Horse Creek. Here' were great numbers camped, beino- just seventeen miles to the next water, with but little -rass on the route The latter part of the day's 'drive has been rough and .sandy. We passed two men on the creek makiiw pack saddles. They had given away their wa*. ons and thrown away tlfeir other pn-nerty. Wagons, harness, stoves an&d all kinds of property we find strewn along the road now. We had a tre- nendous hail storm this afternoon. The hail fell two inches deep some of the pieces of which were an inch in diameter. Many who were exposed had their lips and cheeks cut through by the hail. The storm beat our tents down, and we Bad to 'crawl under the wagons for shelter from its fury. ^ We got up our tents again after the storm passed over, but had to sleep m three inches depth of mud through the nic/ht. 20 mile*

the- 1(7Vn Wf W6£ C^mped Iast r"Sht opposite Laramie's Peak, distant 'he i?Ut miles' We first saw the Peak at a distance ^ ^0 miles. It K the^^ rOVne-d Wi? Sn°W> Wbich m;ikes ifc a Pr^incnt object We grass. eek ab°Ut Doon- Have had a ]iilly road to-day. and

one huith' pamPfd, last niSht at the ^ed Stone Quarries. Here we found as BunJu beautlju1' Pure specimens of white free stone. It was soft and /•an be • °Ut y Wlth a kcife- The real free stone is e(l"ally soft when and a 1- C,?meS °Ut °f the ^uarry- We have had muddy roads to-day, and is said ?n i 6n country to travel through, with but little grass. Passed but is w j,!' , f c we had another severe hail storm. Saw a fine horse House i Jen ft behind to'day- His feet had Become injured for want to-night.66' 22 mil€s-

JOURNAL, JUNE 1850. 25

12th. We saw a good vein of coal to-day, about ten inches thick. It was on the bank of the Platte river, where the water had washed the bank away. I examined it, and found it of good quality. A camp near us lost twenty-six horses anjft one mule last night, by a stampede. We have heard to-day that they Imve found sixteen of the horses, and mule. Country barren, and grass poor. Passed the Deer Creek to-day, which is a beautiful stream, with cotton wood trees growing on its banks. Fuller and Ingalls caught a mess of small fish out of it. 22 miles.

13th. Reached the Upper Platte ferry about noon. We found four boats, two belonging to the Mormons, and two to a St. Louis company. The charge for crossing is four dollars per wagon, and 50 cents for ahorse or mule. The celebrated Kit Carson is here with a drove of horses and mules for sale. I did not see him, he being out on the hills with stock.— The country is very barren here, the Black Hills reaching down within a few miles of the river, and covered with snow. Crossed the river and camped on a barren hill-side without grass, which was the best spot that we could find. 15 miles.

14th. To-day's drive has been over a desert bearing nothing but wild sage, and crickets which cover the ground, and seem to get as fat as it if they had something to eat. They were so nu- merous that we could -not step without crushing some of them. Passed an alkali spring and pond 12 miles from the ferry ; also the Willow Springs, 28 miles from the river. Found good water at the Willow Springs, but no grass. Camped on Prospect Hill in full v Peaks of the Rocky Mountains, and have hi drive, with san dy road. 30 mile.s-

15th. Very cold day; have to wear our overcoats and mittens. Rained all night and forenoon, with a right smart chance of a snow storm. After the snow storm had blown out we had one of the most splendid views of the Rocky Mountains that the mind could conceive. They were clothed with pure white snow from base to summit, gigantic specimens of Nature's monuments. Passed some small creeks to-day furnishing some good water ; also several alkali lakes and swamps. Thousands of wagon loads of pure saleratus and pearlash could be got here. The crusting over some of the swamps readily supported a man walking upon it We gathered some for use and found it much stronger than the manufactured article, but think it contains some poisonous property, as the bread made of it af- fected us disagreeably. I should advise all to observe caution in using it Passed the Independence Rock, which is a huge mass of granite covered with the names of thousands who have gone before us. Crossed the Sweet Water river, which is about 10 rods wide, and three feet deep at the ford, and camped one mile from the crossing.

Sunday. 16th. Moved our camp up to the foot of the mountain where we found a good spring of water and some grass. We are now fairly in the Rocky Mountains, and a ragged looking country it re. Huge piles of granite reared upon each other, covered with snow renders the prospect picturesque, but cheerless. Weather cold and windy.

17th. Passed the Devil's gate, a narrow chasm in the rock, said to about four hundred feet deep, through which the Sweet Water runs, resembles the dells on the Wisconsin river. Have had a sandy road

JOURNAL, JUNK 1850.

poor grass. Bought a light wagon and harness this evening for 10 dollar* baw several heavy wagon* that had been left on the road, owing to the

18th, Crossed the Sweet Water three times to-day. Got in with a train of ox wagons which hindered us so much that we turned out and camped at 3 o'clock, P. M. Found good grass at camp, but have had sandy roads and no grass on the drive. Left our heavy wagon, for the good of other comers, who will probably burn it. Ice made last night half an inch in thickness.

19th. Started at half past three o'clock this morning, and passed all the 01 trains in their camp ground.the Sweet Water, four miles from can from which crossing we will have 16 miles to travel without water or grass Saw several dead oxen along the 16 miles, which were killed by alkali.— Crossed the Sweet Water again — passed one tent on the river of a man and his wife, the man down with the mountain fever. Roads sandy and grass poor. We overtook the balance of our company, who left us last Sunday, again to-day. This is the second time they have left us, and we have overtaken them within three days afterwards, which shows pretty conclusively,! think, that nothing is gained by driving Sundays. 2 8 miles. 20th. Got up into the region of snow to-day, and have passed several snow banks alongside of the road in the ravines. Road better, but no grass to speak of. We passed the 10 wagons to-day which left us on the

down with the mountain fever. Crossed a branch of the Sweet Water and the Willow Creek, and camped about a mile from the latter. We passed to-day a grave made yesterday of a man found with his throat cut He had in his hand when found, a jack knife, and near him was found a scanty supply of provisions. He had committed suicide. It was evident that he was a foot packer, and had probably become depressed by his jour- ney and the gloomy prospect of his not being able to get through his long journey with his slender supply of provisions. Poor fellow; he had become discouraged in prosecuting one long journey, and had entered up- on another longer journey, with, perhaps, less preparation than upon the hrst His name was not known. 20 miles.

21st. We lost pur horses this morning, which hindered us some time,

for the last time; 10 miles from the crossing is the summit of the Rocky mountains at the South Pass, which we reached at noon. It /s known by t*o conical shaped mounds or hills, about 60 feet high. No one would ver suspect this to be the summit, the country is so level, and the as :ent of the whole distance is so gradual. Three miles from the summit we reached the Pacific Springs, on« of the heads of the Colorado river of the CrUlf of California. Camped at the springs over night, found plenty of grass, but the swamps are very miry. At this place the California impress mail stops to take letters back to the States for the emigrants.— Ihe DHCP. nf»amrKn~ v.o/,1,. „ !„*< ,_ :_ r/-» _ _ mi *i -.«, .. to

• . & — • " ^^"bo. JLUI> vbu^j AW neuruiJB oaiiie

p to-night and camped with us. They have two more men down with ever, making 16 in all. They intend going the Salt Lake route from here,but we shall go the Sublett cut-off. 1 7 miles.

JOURNAL, JUKE 1850.

22cl Left early this morning and reached the Big Sandy river at night. We had no water the first 25 miles excepting from one small brackish creek. Passed the forks of the Salt Lake and Sublett cut-off, roads 14 miles from the Springs. The right hand road, the Sublett cut-off, the left, Fort Bridges and Salt Lake. The road along this day's drive has shown plenty of the evil effects of want of grass, water, &c., in the numerous skeletons of stock left last year along the road. The country is barren deserts, destitute of grass, and covered with wild sage. We found^ plenty of grass towards the mountains about three miles from the river. — ' We have had a hot day, although the mountains, as far as we can see are covered with snow. 31 miles.

23d. Sunday. Remained on the Big Sandy to-day. Great numbers are camped here intending to cross the Big Sandy and Green River des- ert to-night. One of our company Thos.~Trimble, was taken sick yester- day with mountain fever; by my advice he was brought along by his part- ner, Col. Sublett, who ha' intended to remain back with him. He is very much better to-day, which inclines me to think that it would be better in most cases to travel with the patient in that fever than to lie bye. The Big Sandy is about 10 rods wide, and 18 inches deep at this time, and is a branch of the Colorado of the West.

24th. Started last night at five o'clock, P. M., to cross the desert, which is not so much a desert as a great deal of the country over which we have already traveled. It is destitute of water, but we found considerable grass. Arrived at the Green River about noon, having traveled all night. only stopping occasionally to rest our teams. The distance, as measured by a roadometer belonging to Dr. Reed's Pennsylvania train, was 41 miles, but I was told that a road turned off 25 miles from the Sandy which shortened the distance to Green River, to 30 miles. It was but little traveled, owing to which we missed it, being in th e night when we passed it. Five miles from the river we had a bluff to descend which was 300 feet high, and almost perpendicular,but we got down without accident by locking both hind wheels and sliding. Last year the emigrants were obliged to take their wagons to pieces and let them down with ropes. We had a beautiful moonlight last night for traveling. Our road led in sight of the snow mantled peaks of the Rocky Mountains, which looked with the moon beaming upon them, like mountains of molten silver. It was one of the most magnificent views that I have ever witnessed, and richly repaid me for the loss of rest in crossing the desert in the night to attain it. We brought a packer across the desert in our wagon who was una- ble to travel on horse back,from sickness ; he was so much better when we reached Green River that he concluded to try his horse again. Our com- pany is peculiarly fortunate, for we not only escape sickness ourselves, but are often able to relieve others who are suffering. We crossed Green River in a ferry boat and drove seven miles, passing a creek six miles from the river, and camped for the night. Found the grass poor, but good wa- ter. We paid $5 a wagon for crossing, and swam our stock. Green Riv- er is abut 15 rods wide at the ferry, with a very swift current, and gener ally deep. Some few ford above the ferry, but it is attended with great danger. One wagon went rolling down the stream, while we were there. One horse belonging to it was drowned, but the men were sated by the

JoimxAr,. JUNE 1850.

ferryboat. One went down yesterday in the same manr stand that 14 men have been drowned'here this season S crc sin, is worth here $50 per hundred Ibs. Green River presents the mantie scenery m the world ; it is deep set in the midst of Waft tha° the shapes Of towers, castles, cities, and of every imaginable work of art The bottom is smooth at intervals, lookin^ like a kwn «-if h t viewed from the summit of the bluffs mfa^erin^firo^ lot'™,'?8 silver thread winding through .green lanlTpf, whilst "a diSt

snnJf ^T- K S6en tie.Peaksof the Rock .Mountains covered with snow, from their bases to their summits, roaring their heads far into *

2L O^thT f,hln-m£ UP°n ?em Cau-8inS th"m to S^ten like burnished sili , er. On tne other side are Green River mountains^ which, though let lofty, are quite as p.cturesque, having their valleys relieved by groves of Dine, the green contrasting agreeably with the "naked brown rocks com Dosing the mountains. It is out of mv no™, t. ^ * • • C°m"

in summer, and than its beauty

r rises int"c ww R™ —

V.ce we left the Pacific Springs, bit cold night, ' ^ ^3^ a ml K lm 1!! °ampr t0-day to recruit our horses. A man died ab

r ek his enn r o e mou o

!S lE eVS?"*Md cauSht f fiuc me^ of salmon, one of which weighed They are an excellent kind offish, and very well flavored? the

^W^ ^ W

^rtt^USt7i!edagain]hium0rnin"ear^ Raveled up the creek about

"

We h

aCC°Untof the dust which ^"^suftbcati, gS "^ thin ffr°VeS at the foot of the T™ ™

1K

doth h;,, !mb,ed °ne Snow bank 20 feet h%b. "otwithsta,

h Sf to aWnVD m , 6 °f the da-V JS S° intcnae- We have had ^eep We croS"d:8'ain .^da7; but the ""-st "f it is in descending tbeaJ-

cwLSffin^T^TS8 StTeam' "ame UnknOWn' Fuller an^ I Jonathan of ifd hns In?,? troui,.whlle we ™e Wng about it. W, have had plenty ^ Gr< HH ?;- Tuy "^oshonees or Snakes. Camped this n./t t«I, at th« Bear Hr«d -nrampinenf, on the summit betv^n

JOURS AI., JUSE 1850.

Green River and Bear River. We are above snow yet. and have found

rrass and water.

Ve had some very bad hills to descend to-df

*u«* *i,« »mi<rran(a of last year had to lettneir

ot down with out accident, by lockm Reached Bear River about 3 P. M., and drov< Smith's River, and camped. At this point the tour . Bear River between two high points or curves of thej in one hundred rods from the first to the las* deep and bad to cross: the water coming nearl bed Bear River is a large stream about 150 yards across w in a u swift current, and runs almost directly towards the north at t bottoms furnish an abundance of luxuriant nutritious gras supply all the stock on the plains, and they resemble the t rivers of Illinois. We find plenty of Indians on this river, .t bein head quarters of the Shoshonees whose lodges may be seen o posite side of the river. They have an abundance of 1 horses, and are learning to talk English very fast; have learned riffht smart, as our Missouri friends say, but dog on cm, if the* c th&ey will steal. They are a little better looking mdians tl but I think much more indolent and filthy.

30th Sunday. We remain in camp to-day, having good gr xvater Some of the boys are fishing trout and have caught severs ^ a beautiful, romantic spot, surrounded by high steep mountains, ^or a basin three or four miles in extent, well supplied with grass We a .

had some Indian visitors here to-day; one £***~£"?*^2

efore he eat the to.

f nature's ornament as

" MT^SS* called upon us for assistance in^o ssing the Four Forks, for reason that every man in the tram ^ «" ** "^ helped them to cross, when they went their way. nia train camped here last night. They moved on his mornin intention of getting up a celebration of our *ati ^ Annnersaiy o Fourth of July. We have traveled occasionally with .them since ^niun the Little Blue, often ramping with them, so much so that we

like old friends. . , r Forks -

our * >rks.

around the mountain I ever saw, sometimes raising pendicular rocks threo feet high, sometimes jumping off sirn We broke the bolster to our wagon-others experienced other Some in advance of us had been still more unfortunate, as ^ wagons along the road plainly proved. We drove about 12 mil

JOURNAL, JUtY 1850.

e"m' W"ere "C 'o"1"1 *«/ * gras,, .„„ cauht

This afternoon we bad some tremendous hills to cl !'£ ™«h ?^, over combs of rock, but at ^

»ot as tiresome as the descent

/v. . , " Kicuisui.il

r** sufficiently tiresome, though

nigh, We

«-snsr£S^*2»as=?-E

l

ted at the point where he B^ K™ ±,2^°^ /he SPrin*s are

4th. Not havi

- - - *wt'v« iaiitres 01

s with vegetation. The Springs plain covered with cedars through liver. To the west may be seen iow a barren plain, covered with wild sane n account of the numerous chasms of uV , /awning mouths on its surface. Probablv sities m the world than the Soda Springs se springs is equal to the best soda. We 'tried it a most pleasant beverage. One of then j, is a great curiosity of itself. It has a com 2 cavity of which may be six or eight inches in * and recedes in this shaft every few minutes steam on a steamboat, hence its name. There and springs containing other minerals, and five urLake. Wo J>av« \,0J « «u««

n-tops are covered with snow. \Ve have or the first time since we crossed the

fs, with d very

JOURNAL JULY 1850.

concluded to travel to-day. The Fort Hall road heretbneffarso^thkeee^[' which is also the Oregon route; the Soda Springs cut-off route keeps rectiY across the old crater. We concluded to go the alter route. About lollesTaveltook us over the cratar, and six mfe. ^ -ore over the hills to a branch of the Lewis or Snake River, a branch of the Colum ba River where we found another Indian village, with some :Mcx- fcans, and about th?ee hundred of the most beautifnl -ky Mo- ,-rr --j *u~ .,;un,«. onH tfnrmpd to bait on tue siae

few rods from our camp, to celebrate our Nation drank our punch, and given three cheers for 01 surned our march. Soon after starting we came

broken down, who were about to take to packing.

25 miles.

I- ever traveled in; stupei snow, rearin*

ild wheat, clover and

and recover their manhood. 6th. Drove about 11 mil

23 miles.

ires any. We called

i ., . • i- i

this the Emigrant's Pass. It seems as if nature construct, "»•"•£ plain expressly for the benefit of us poor mortals but ,f dame moved by any such kindly feelings towards us when sho was enga «ed on this excellent natural road, she must have got sadl y "iffed when^ got it completed to the top of the mountain, for we bad one o the most tre mendous descents to make on the other s.de, that we have had on tho journey. The descent was probably one thousan d fe et within the first mile, steeper than the roof of a house. It is said of an aneie ^^; that he commenced by lifting a kid, and by continuing to ^»^«w got so that he could lift an ox. This is somewhat the «JJ^'£™1 we commenced the journey, trifling hills were considered gre but now we lock our hind wheels and slide down a *^***£ rocks, and through gullies, with m-*-*"** "SBtSff

JOURNAL, JULY I860.

«£££&£ tunied up lo thc fwt of the — u

7th. Sunday. We concluded to lie over to-dav althn i. ot so good a camping ground as we could desire ' On o& oyd, of Mineral Point, Wig, had a horse sZ

This afternoon, we entered another canon, similar to the only that maead of havin a s ' *

)arrcn, burning sage plain,

had to cross, since leaving the Missouri ^Dcev**^™1" ^ ™, have had to pack all of our load across it on our baSs, On? ^ddy' ™

abundance of i

"

I fy h.gh granite peaks standing about in thc greatest

.

JOURKAL, JULY 1850.

confusion, called the Steeple Rocks. They are quite a curiosity at a dis- tance, looking like steeples rising up from the plains, some of them' many hundred feet high, and coTering more than an acre or two at the base. — The road has been good. 25 miles.

llth. Got an early start this morning. We had a very cold night, quite cold enough for December, but have had a very warm day. — Passed the Junction of the Salt Lake and Ft. Hall roads this morning;— saw some wagons coming that road, the men said they had been seven days coming from Salt Lake; that it was about 170 miles, and that they had some bad streams to cross, one of them (the Webber) 19 times. — Passed a new grave at noon. We saw the team to which the person be- longed who died, go along while we were baiting; he was then alive;— when we came up two hours afterwards, he was buried. He was from Missouri, and had been left sick on the road by his comrades. The team that had him in charge had picked him up and brought him along over 1000 miles and attended him until he died. Humanity sickens at such selfishness as that manifested by his comrades. They were three in number — he owned one fourth of the craft in common with them, but becoming sick, the brutes left him to the mercy of Indians, wolves, or such strangers as chance might throw in his way. The scroundrels should serve 10 years in the penitentiary if they ever get back to Missouri. We find many sick on the road now, and some deaths, but three-fourths of all that are sick are from Missouri. I do not know why it is, but such, ap- pears to be the fact.

This afternoon we had a long bad hill to descend, when we reached Goose Creek, and traveled up a few miles and camped for the night — We have had an abundance of grass and water to-day. A singular look- ing gigantic bluff of rocks lies directly opposite from us, whicfc we call the castle, and it looks like an ancient castle, with its mossy battlements and sturdy towers. I saw some of the most beautiful specimens of white mar- ble to-day that it hast been my fortune to examine. There was a quarry of it filling a mountain. It was as pure as alabaster, and probably has not a rival in the world. Horse shoe nails sold to-day for 25 cents a piece. 25 miles.

12th. Followed up theGoose creek 13 milcs,thcn up a spring branch thro* a gorge in the mountains and across some barren ridges without water, about 12 miles, when we entered the Thousand Spring Valley. The ridge that we crossed is composed almost entirely of lava, or melted stone, and is very rough and sharp to travel over. We did not camp until after dark, their being no grass at the first springs, and then we camped in the wild sage without grass, but vre could go no farther that night Four- teen horses ran away whilst we were getting our supplies. Some of them were found during the night, and the rest in the morning ; they had found good grass up in the hills. Most of our men were out all night, so that this night seems but a continuation for the morrow. 30 miles.

13th. Crossed the ridge from the Thousand Spring Valley to the Cold Creek Valley about 12 miles, no grass or water. Cold Creek is a dry creek where we struck it, but- furnishes some water for stock. Our course lay up the creek, which we followed up to near its head, where we camped it some good springs impregnated with sulphur. We found plenty of ^,r;i- >

«M JOURNAL, JULY 1850.

at night, and have seen considerable quantities of alkali through the day. We passed the grave of a man drowned July 1st, [1850] but cannot im- agine where it happened, as there is not water enough in the creek to drown a man, if if he should lie down expressly for that purpose. The dust has been very oppressive to-day. 23 miles.

14th. Sunday. Laid over to-day. Weather very warm,but cold last ni^ht Jonathan killed a sage hen to-day ; we found it good, delicate flavored meat, much better than prairie hen. A packer had a horse shot last night with an arrow about 10 miles below us; another man lost two horses and four oxen which were stolen by the Indians.

loth. Got an early start this morning, traveled about four miles and came to the hot springs. They are curiosities worth visiting. They boil up like water iu a kettle, and are hot enough to cook eggs. I attempted to put my hand into one of them to the wrist,bnt could not get it in to the knuckles without scalding. An amusing story is told of some Dutchmen who came to it, and stopped their teams by its side, when one of them went to the spring.and seeing it boiling up clear and limpid, threw himself down on the ground and thrust his face into the water, but instantly sprang to his feet with his eyes staring, and brushing the hot water from his face with both hands, he screamed out, " Trive on, Honce, trive on ; hell ishno more dan five milsh from here!" The springs smell strong of sulphur, and discharge a large quantity of water. Near them are some good cold springs. Four miles from these springs we left the Mormon trace which leads over to Kanyon Creek, and passed through a valley to a branch of the Humbolt River. Road good but dusty, not much grass. At the point where we left the Mormon trace, we found an excel- lent spring of pure cold water, as cold as ice water. We passeed a natu- ral well near the place -where we struck a branch of the Humboldt, and camped two miles below at some sulphur springs, strongly impregnated with alkali. This well has no soundings that have ever been reached, there are also some of the same in Thousand Spring Valley. The whole coun- try hereabouts has been at some day past a great volcanic crater, and its distinctive features at this day will remind one of that place spoken of above by the honest Dutchman, rather than pertaining to earth. We have passed springs gushing out of the rocks to-day so poisonous that a wine glass full would kill a man as soon as so much arsenic. They can be told by the smell for 40 rods before reaching them. We found good grass to-night, although there was considerable alkali mixed with it

33 miles.

1C. About 10 miles drive brought us to the Humboldt, which is about '20 yards wide and three feet deep. We crossed it and followed down it on its west bank. The valley here is wide and filled with abundance of excellent grass, clover, wild oats, wheat and red top. The day has been very hot and dusty, yet on both sides of us, but a few miles distant, the tops of the mountains are covered with snow. We passed two new graves to-day ; one of them was of a man who was shot by an Indian whilst on ^uard on the night of the 2d of July, and died on the fifth. His name was was Oliver; he was from Waukesha, Wis. The Indians are rather troublesome of late, as the Diggers always are when they dare to be. We tind a great maw- dead horses now, and some that are left alive, the ef-

JOURNAL, JULY 1850.

fectsof hard drivino- and alkali. The most of the dead, stock heretofore has been oxen, but it seems now that oxen stand this part of the trip the , 25 miles.

JCl7th. Course still down the river— crossed a considerable branch of the Humboldt, probably the Kanyon creek. The Humboldt here is very swampy. Had some of our horses mired— general complaint of like i ture. The road last year followed down the bottoms, but this year water is so hi"h, that the bottoms are one complete swamp, and as a c< sequence we have to keep on the sage plains and cross ridges, making t road longer and worse to travel, and also to wade in the mud and cut o-rass for our stock. Passed another grave this evening of a man I an Indian; also some men digging a grave for one of their comrad had died. There is an abundance of red clover along this drive in ti low grounds. ,32 »llles'

18th. Continued down the river— stopped and set the tire >r o« wagon. This afternoon we entered a canon leading across a spur ol mountain, distance about 12 miles, and without water. Camped on a small creek, with but little grass. A horse was shot afhort distance fn us by the Indians.

1 9th. About five miles from our last night's camp we crossed a moun- tain brook of excellent water, then entered a canon which we followed for 26 miles, the first U without water. After turning the summit, ai descending about two miles we came to a spring of pure cold water by U road side. We camped this night on the Humboldt and swam our stock across the river. Our camp presents the appearance of a populous village. There are probably not far from five hundred men m it, besides many women and children. Found good grass .*>n the opposite side of the • oo miles.

"loth Our road to-day led mostly away from the river, crossing some ridges in the forenoon; in the afternoon left the river and crossed a level sacfe plain to the base of the mountains, where we found some poor wa and some grass. We followed along at the base of the hills until we reached within a few miles of the river again and camped on a bottom ered with heavy grass, and slough water. This is the best point to stop at to recruit on the Humboldt, as there are miles of good grass equal to the less cultivated meadows, and but little alkali, and by taking some pains, water may be had. It will be known by the emigrant by this descnptio The road leaves the river and runs directly to the hills, the river b ing to the left. The hills which you approach also bear to the left, until they approach the river, which takes a short turn around its base, it] road when it reaches the hills turns to the left and follows the base of them until it strikes the river, then passes around the rocky rugged point o mountain next to the river. After you pass this point you come into < tensive salt and alkali plains. You will find good looking grass m s( places, but it is so much impregnated with salt and alkali that your stock will run down on it all the time. The best place to stop here « miles before you reach the point of the mountain, towards the river. . , Q. ,

The day has been hot and the dust oppressive. No person m the ates can have an idea of the dust in this country until he has been here.

JOURNAL, JULY I860.

man will settle to the ankles at every step, and his eyes and nostrils are lied with it throughout the day; and when the wind blows it is suffoca- ting. The country is volcanic, the mountains being composed entirely of lava and cinders. We found a new variety of currants here yellow va- riety, which are very good. Fuller picked a large quantity of them

*•£* ~ - 30 miles,

•ove about eight miles to-<

»cd near the river in a clover" patch. "There arc a number of warm springs near the road by the point of the moun-

22d. Left the river this morning and traveled down the second bank of the river, a nearly level plain covered with alkali and wild sa<re, but no grass. We went to the river once, although out of the way. *The ri^ht hand road is 18 miles without grass or water, very dusty and disagreea- ble. Water very bad, even that in the river; camped on the river bank, no grass on our side. The boys swam the river about fifteen rods wide' here, and rigged a sort of ferry with our piquet ropes, and ferried grass across on them fof the night, no small job for 17 horses. 23 miles.

23d. Started this morning at four o'clock, A. M. From camp it is 14 miles to water or graas. Two miles from camp the roads branched in every direction, and the course of the river is hidden entirely by the mountain which seems to circle the whole country like the rim of a great basin, with the exception of a gap far to the right. The plain spreads out to the mountains level and desolate, a desert. Tt is labyrinth of roads gave rise to one of the most ludicrous scenes that I ever saw. For myself, I had been lost from my wagons since daylight, without being aware of the fact, and like the rest had taken a wrong road. About noon I found some' good clover and stopped to bait my horse. When I started again, on rising a gentle aclivity I found the plain alive with teams and men, who looked as though they had been struck with the confusion of Babylon. Some were driving in one direction, some in another, oxen, horses, mules, wacr- ons, horse packers and foot packers, were hurrying across the plains, with- out seeming object, in every direction as far as the eye could reach, and in the most delightful confusion imaginable. Two hundred wagons and numbers of packers had lost their way, and knew not which way to turn, and as usual in such cases were going every wrong way. I rode up to a man and asked him what the deuce was to pay ; if all the people were mad ? He was as much in the fog as I was. Presently some packers came along who said they had been to the end of the road, and that they were lost. This explained the confusion, although not very satisfactory of itself, for we began to fear that we had inadvertantly been following some old cut-off which would take time to retrace. By good fortune I succeed- ed in finding one wagon belonging to our train, where I got some dinner. .Our train had become broken up as well as the rest in the confusion, each one going on his own hook. After dinner I struck out in the direction where I thought to find the river, and found I was right, and about night was so fortunate as to find the ballance of the train, who had succeeded m reaching the river ahead of me. Emigrants, that is the Fools Meadow. When you get down below the point of the mountain which I spoke of be- fore this, and come to a great basin, surrounded on all sides, but a gap far

JOL'IIXAL, JLNE 1850. 'J'»

to the right, don't you pay any attention to that gap, nor come to the conclusion that the river takes a turn and runs through it, for it don't do it, but you keep the extreme left hand road, and you will find that the river runs right through tho mountains as high as they look. The right hand roads are all camping roads, and extend some of them 12 miles to some clover patches, and the old Lawson cut-off lead* through that gap on the right, where an Oregon party went two or three years ago and near- ly all perished. Many stopped and made hay at these clover patches.thin- kino- they were at the desert, but don't trouble yourself here, for you have got a long dreary march of a week's duration before you get to the Great Desert. We traveled hard all day to get 14 miles on our' journey, but I think the emigrant who reads this will remember the Fools Meadow, and avoid the same mistake. The emigrants now begin to experience a want of provisions. Flour, pork and sugar are one dollar per Ib. ; coffee 50 cts., fresh beef 25, and not much to be got at those prices. 14 miles.

24th. About four miles from last night's camp ground we came to a watering place near where the river passes through the mountains. The road leaves the river here and crosses the mountains eight miles, rough road and dusty, no water. Swam the river for grass to bait our horses at noon. Passed the grave of a man who was drowned whilst getting grass across the river. Camped at night on the river; had to wade three sloughs to find grass. 20 miles.

25th. A few miles from where we camped had a bad deep creek to cross, where we found plenty of dead stock. Immediately after crossing passed over a rough stony ridge for about two miles, between two cone shaped hills or mammelles. This point is about 110 miles from the mead- ows at the sink of the Humboldt, and there is but little grass on the route. Litwiler cut his wagon in two and made a cart of it, we then drove about eight miles and camped. Roads sandy, weather hot. This river .begin- ning to lose itseft and grow smaller. I killed three sage hens this morn- ing, which were very desirable as we are getting short of provisions.

18 miles.

2Gth. Traveled over 18 miles of very bad road to-day. It was over a table of the mountain. The sand was six inches deep, for most of the way, and the day hot; our stock suffered severely. Passed much dead stock and piles of wagon irons. Killed two sage hens — mosquitoes quite troublesome ; camped on the river bottom which is narrow ; but little grass. 1 8 miles.

27th. Started at four o'clock, A. M., traveled down the river two miles, then left the river, struck across a desert plain 12 miles to the river; many think this the Great Desert; it is desert enough, but not the Great Desert This point will be known by a high mountain dividing two valleys. The river runs to the right of this mountain. At noon we had to feed our horses on willows, there being no grass. We got some rushes by swim- ming the river. We have now got far enough along to begin to have a sight of tho Elephant. The river here runs'through narrow clay banks like a canal. Passed the grave of a man found in the river; camped at night on a sand bank, put our horses across the river; gras poor.

17 miles.

* JOURNAL, JULY IS.-.O.

28th. Sunday. Crossed a sand ridge about two miles, and travelled down the bottom about four miles, where we found some o-rass and camped. Our horses are failing fast. Kit Carson says truly &that the Humboldt is the burying ground for horses and oxen. We" pass daily great numbers of dead stock at the camping grounds, in the sloughs, and in the river. The river is nothing but horse broth.seasoned with alkali <fc salt. The appearance of emigrants has sadly changed since we started. Then they were full of life and animation, and the road was enlivened with, the song of "I am going to California with my tin pan on my knee." "Oh, California, that's the land for me," but now they crawl along hungry, and spiritless, and if a song is raised at all, it is, " Oh carry me back to Old Virginia, to Old Virginia's shore." Well, they say misery loves company, so we can have some enjoyment after all, for there is plenty of that kind of company. No one seems to know where we are, even those who trav- eled the route last year, several of whom are along. Last year the road led immediately on the bottom, but this year it is on the sage plains or second level of the river, the bottoms being so swampy that they cannot be crossed. The Mormon guide for this end of the route, is good for noth- ing. Yesterday was the worst day for dust that we have had. Every body was literally covered with it so that the drivers could not be recog- nised. 6 mi|e&

29th. Litwiller and Ranahan killed three antelope yesterday. They packed in two of them about eight miles from the mountains. They ar- rived in camp about 1 1 o'clock at night. Passed the clay banks, some perpendicular banks on the opposite side of the river about 50 feet high. From this place is a desert, the river running through narrow clay banks, void of vegetation except the Artemesia or wild sage. The road general- ly follows the plains back from the river, only approaching occasionally for water. We camped about three P. M., and managed to get a little grass •for our horses. 15 mjies.

30th. Started at four A. M. ; route similar that of yesterday. We are now in sight of the Pyramid, a lone peak nearly opposite the upper slough of the sink commonly called the meadow. Road touched the river once •or twice to-day for water, but no grass, nothing for feed but willows.

16 miles.

31st. Started at one o'clock, A. M., struck the river again 10 miles from camp; no grass, only an arid sage desert From this it is 25 miles to the slough or meadows, and 13 to water, which will be found at some springs in the gully directly opposite the pyramid. We reached the springs about 10 o'clock, A. M., although one of our horses gave out, which delayed us somewhat, and reached the upper end of the slough about noon, where we obtained some rushes and flags for our horses which they devoured greedily after their long fast on willows. The pyramid at a dis- tance resembles an ancient Mexican pyramid, rising by steps. It may be seen for 40 miles up the river, and serves as a beacon, for the slough or meadows. After baiting we continued down the slough about six miles to some passable springs, and to where there is better grass. We found two cities of tents at the slough quite populous. They would do honor to more civilized countries. The road for a few days past has been strewed with dead stock. I counted to-day 120 head of horses, mules and oxen,

.lUlKNAL, ACCLST 1800.

and cot tired of it before night at that. I suppose 1 passed 5u head more that! did not count. If there is any worse desert ahead than we found for 70 miles back, I don't know what it may be. I have «** several dead horses, mules and oxen, by the roadside, that had their ban it out to eat by the starving wretches along the road; for my own par I will eat the lizzards which infest the sage bushes, before I will eat th stock that died from the alkali. The destitution has reached its height now. Hundreds are entirely out of provisions, and there are none whc have any to spare, and but very few who have enough to carry them into the mines. Often, almost daily, will some poor starved fellow come up to the wagon and pray us in God's name to give or sell him a crust of b some of them asserting that they have eaten no food for two, or ever days. Money is no consideration for food here ; no one will money, but we always give enough to prevent starvation, when thus i portuned, although we have not over five days' provision on hand, putting our trust in Providence for the issue to ourselves— for so long as there game in the mountains we will never starve.

To-day is the first, since the third day of June, that we have been out ol sight of snow fora whole day; it has been excessively hot, the sing in clouds; roads bad, owing to the deep sand.

August 1st Remained camped to-day, preparing hay for crossing t Desert which commences 20 miles from the slough or meadow, an abundance of grass at this point for all the stock that can ever reach here We have to wade to get it, then cart it to the channel, and across that in a wagon box. A man with his wife came into the camp last nieht on foot, packing what little property they had left on a single ox, the sole remaining animal of their team; but I was informed of a worse caee than this by some packers, who said they passed a man and his wife about 11 miles back who were on foot, toiling through the hot sand, the man carrying the blankets and other necessaries, and his wife carrying their only child in her arms, having lost all their team.

2d We still remain at the meadows. A team came m yesterday even inn- from Sacramento, loaded with provisions. They ask for rice § .0 per lb* for flour 82 00; bacon $2 00; whiskey $2 00 per pint, and brandy $3' 00 per pint. vVe killed a cow this evening which we had picked up a few days ao-o at a camping ground, where she had been left on account of lameness. She was not exactly beef, but she was better eating than dead mules and horses by the road side; we divided her up m the tram among the starving people who are about us, only saving a small for ourselves, which we jerked and dried.

3d We are still lying by. About two miles below our camp a some falls in the river, at which point the meadows terminate, no more ^rass from here until we reach Carson River, about 66 Some of "the teams that left us above Fort Kearney came m to-day, ei tirely destitute of provisions, and had been so for some days, a they had contrived to starve along somehow. We heard of them b they o-ot here, and saved a little beef for them.

4th Sunday. Broke up camp and started again. V\ c had stoppec three dnys to recruit our horses before taking the d?sert, and althougl we have taken the utmost pains with thcm.they are weaker now than

JOURNAL, AUtiL'fcl J850.

we stopped. My advice to all is not to make any slop at this point, but push on to Carson River, for there is so much alkali in the water and grass here that your stock will not recruit. There is no water for the next 20 miles lit for stock to drink. We lost one horse to-day from watering beside the road, t>ur miles before we got to the sink. He died in thirty minutes after drinking, in the greatest agony. Two others were much injured, so much so, that we could only get them to the sink with the greatest difficulty. Trimble and Sublet also lost one. Beware of shal- low water along here. 20 miles.

5th. Reached the Sink last night about sunset This is a basin about 80 rods wide and half a mile long. It is usually the last water found on "ie Humboldt, or where it loses if elf in the sand, hence its name, but

'<; year the water is so high that • runs down several miles further before it entirely sinks. There is no grss ere whatever, nothing but desert. We broke up our wagon to-day and made pack saddles, being convinced of the impossibility of getting our wagon across the desert, since the loss of the horse yesterday and the injury to the others. Last night while we were making our supper on coffee and boiled corn, soon after dark, a man came to us and asked for a drink of water. I gave it to him; after drinking he stood looking wistfully at our corn, then asked me if I would take half a dollar for a pint cup full of it. I told him I would not take half a dol- lar for it, for money was no consideration for food here. He said no mftre, but turned sorrowfully away, when I stopped him and asked him if he was in distress. He said that he had eaten nothing for two days but a small piece of dried meat which a man gave him. I then told him that I would not take a half dollar for the corn, but that he was welcome to sit down and eat his fill ; for although we were nearly out of provisions, we would divide with a man in distress to the last morsel. He stopped the night with us, and took breakfast, and although urged to stop and cross the desert with us to-day, or take some corn with him, he would not do it, but said that he had taxed our hospitality too much already, and left us this morning. His name was Bayell, he belonged in one of the cen- tral counties of Illinois, and was a man of standing and influence at home, and a brother of the 1. 0. O. F. He said he hailed when he came up to our camp, but it was so dark that I did not see his hail, or I should not have put him to the test, to see whether he was really needy or not. Sub- let and company, and Williams & Co. left us this morning to cross the des- ert; we got our pack saddles completed, and took the desert at 2 o'clock, P. P., and traveled all night. Two of our horses gave out, the same that were alkalied, and we left them. About midnight we reached the first wagon road where we found about four acres of wagons left to decay on the desert; this is the first sand ridge; we passed two other wagon yards before morniug at similar ridges, besides great numbers along the road, Albany of them burning. Who will accurately describe this desert at this time? Imagine to yourself a vast plain of sand and clay; the moon ri- ding over you in silent grandeur, just renders visible by her light the dis- tant mountains; the stinted sage, the salt lakes, cheating the thirsty trav- eler into the belief that water is near: yes, water it is, but poison to thr living thing that stops to drink. Train after train drag their tiresome course along, man and beast suffering all the pangs of thirst toil on. fee'

JOURNAL, AUOU8T 1850. 41

ing, ksowing that the burning sun finds thcni on the desert in the com- ing day, their sfferings will be enhanced ten-fold, if worn out with fatigue and thirst they do not faint by the wayside and give up altogether. Burn- ing wagons render still more hideous the solemn march ; dead horses line the road, and living ones may be constantly seen, lapping and rollin<r the empty water casks (which have been cast away) for a drop of w^ter to quench their burning thirst, or standing with drooping heads, waiting for death to relieve them of their tortures, or lying on the sand half buried, unable to rise, yet still trying. The sand hills are reached ; then comes a scene of confusion and dismay. Animal after animal drops down. Wa<*- on after wagon is stopped, the strongest animals are taken out of the har- ness, the most important effects are taken out of the wagon and placed on their backs and all hurry away, leaving behind wagons, property and ani- mals that, too weak to travel lie and broil in the sun in an agony of thirst until death relieves them of their tortures. The owners hurry on with but one object in view, that of reaching the Carson River before the broling sun shall reduce them to the same condition. Morning comes, and the light of day presents a scene more horrid than the rout of a defeated army ; dead stock line the roads, wagons, rifles, tents, clothes, everything but food may be found scattered along the road; here an 01, who standing famished against a wagon bed until nature could do no more, settles back into it and dies; and there a horse kicking out his last gasp in the burn- ing sand, men scattered along the plain and stretched out among the dead stock like corpses, fill out the picture. The desert! you must see it and feel it in an August day, when legions have crossed it before you, to real- ize it in all its horrors. But heaven save you from the experience.

An incident occurred this evening which shows well of the selfishness of some people on this route. It was soon after dark ; we had taken off the packs to rest our horses, and were sitting and lying in the sage bush- es beside the road; one of our companions had a few miles back been compelled to leave a horse, which from mistaken feelings of sympathy for the poor animal, he had neglected to kill. While sitting there, a com- pany of packers came along the road, when, although it was so dark that I could not distinguish one animal from another, our friend caught up his rifle, cocked and presented it towards one of them, excjaiming in an angry

tone, "Get off that horse, you g d d — n — d scoundrel, or I'll shoot

him down under you." The fellow slid off the horse instantly, when our friend gave him one of the "dog-onit-est" blowings up, as the Missourians say, that one fellow ever got for riding the poor animal after he had giv- en out. It was our friend's horse, who, dark as it was, recognized his faithful animal. The fellow sloped without saying a word in his defence.

6th. Morning still finds us dragging our weary steps along on the des- ert, with nothing near but endless sand hills and beds of clay. Passed Sublett's and Trimbles and Williams's wagons, which they were com- pelled from loss of stock to leave. Reached the last sand 13 miles from Carson's River, about 10 o'clock, A. M., where we found a water station, and bought some water for our horses at 75 cts. a gallon. We left the pack of one horse here for the station keeper to bring in at night, and the boys went on with the horses, leaving Fuller, who Was pretty much done over, and myself, behind. They reached the river about four o'clock, P

JOURNAL, AUGU6T 1850.

M. We were fortunate enough to find some old friends, 1 Welch, and T Ranahan, who had got up a shelter for themselves and oxen,of tents,cloths, and wagon covers, to protect them from the sun. We stayed with them through the heat of the day, and about night started again, but turned ofl about a mile from the road to visit a small salt lake, where we found a very good spring of fresh water and a sulphur spring. This Jake is about three miles from Carson River; its waters are more salt than the most salt brine, and its shores are encrusted with pure salt Its bed was evi- dently once the crater of a volcano. We reached the river about 10 o'clock, P. M., but could not find our camp it was so dark, although we found the next day that we had passed directly through it, but the loss of tents, wagons, &c., rendered it impossible to distinguish our comrades who were snoring away, wrapped in their blankets. However, after straggling around until towards midnight, we found the tent of some old esteemed friends, Esq. Hoffman & son, who gave us a hearty welcome and a spare blanket, which,(having already filled ourselves with God's beverage from the Carson River,) was to us a perfect elysian. 46 miles.

7th. There are several stations here, at which they sell flour at $1,50 per lb.; meals at $2,00 a head, and liquor at $1,00 a drink, and measure it themselves. There arc great complaints of stock stealing here, some of the station keepers having a hand in it. About 20 men went down the river to-day to take some stock away from the Indians, which they had stolen. Among them, I saw Mountaineer Jack. He was riding a pony upon the full gallop, his hair, which would reach over his shoulders, strea- ming in the wind; he was dressed in buckskin from head to foot, sun- burnt and bearded, his head guiltless of any other covering but that of na- ture's; he presented the most perfect specimen of a wild man, conveying to the beholder a feeling not unmixed -with dread as he approached, ri- rle in hand, and his belt stuck full of revolvers and bowie khives. But Jack is always the poor man's friend, and shabby as he looks, his pockets are always lined with the yellow boys. He is now here at the station, ev- er ready to take part in whatever comes up, whether it be a game of French monte, a frolic, or to make a foray upon the Indian villages in the mountains, or recover the emigrants horses. A good story is told of him, of an incident whjch transpired a few days ago. He was then over the desert on the Humboldt. A couple of starved foot packers came across him, and taking Jim from his wild appearance to be some destitute emi grant as bad ott' as themselves, and as misery loves company, hailed him with, "Halloo, friend, we had better travel in company ; you look as if you had seen as hard times as ourselves. Jack stopped and looked at them until they came up, when he asked them what they meant. They told him that they were starving, and had neither provision nor money. — " What!" said Jack, "are you going to starve in this fine country? You

are a couple of d d fools if you do." They replied that they had

no money, and if they had it would not buy food here. Jack put his hand in his pocket and pulled out a 10 dollar piece and gave them, telling them to go and buy some flour. They then started for the river to where there were some trains in sight, and Jack along with them. They found on the river a large train, the men of which were feeding flour to their mules. — One of thpm walked up to thr captain of the train, and stating their con-

JOURNAL, AUGUST 1850.

4iuon and circumstances asked him to sell *»!^^;J^& to do it, telling them he wanted it for his mules I hey t were s arving,°but he replied that he must look out for himself before did for other0 folks, and that they might as well be f ,J^s°oda^ ent listener to the conversation, but when lie found that the capU would not let them have any flour, he walked up to «^^«^ if he would let the men starve. In reply the captain made an in.u response, when Jack raised his list and gave the captain a blow in the teeth, sprawling him on the ground, and telling him hat he vas won* than a d - -d digger to refuse starving men flour when he , it to mules; he left him -and went with the packers to wheie 1

ceeded in buying some flour. R-u^vell

Moved our camp up the river six miles to better grass b.w Bagwell again; he said* that he never came so near perishing as he d sing the desert; that having nothing to eat but the piece of dried mea t, which being somewhat salt, made him thirsty, and having no wa ; er, hi. tortures became almost insupportable, and that when he reached 1) water camp, his tongue was swollen so that he could not keep it m hi. mouth, andhad turned black; that he expended his \alf do Uar Q (which was all the money that he had) for water, which enabled him to , the river, where he got a meal of victuals on credit, and *•**>«* cutting rjrass and cutting it across the river at sixpence a bundle, and wa. SfTdSLfr*& at the business. He left the road -here we struck the river for us to come up to where he was and he would all the grass ready for us that we should want gratis, but hndmg grass, we were not compelled to tax him. i-idim

We had a California court in camp to-day. A couple ol a man drunk, and after getting him to he down laid themselves down one on each side of him. Presently a man from Pike co. Ill, came ^g, and said that they were picking his pockets. Seeing that nobody else wou interfere, I went to him, tumbled him over and took the money away fron him, whin the bystander,, a crowd of whom had gathered Around picked him up and kicked him out of the camp. When this was settled some men came forward and stated that the other one had picked anotl er man's pocket who was then drunk in a gully near bye, then tumbled 1 over, and found as drunk as he pretended to be, he got over it very eas^ when his turn came. He jumped upon his feet and denied the charg e - vehemently, and with such brazen impudence, that •^*°*"*J mistaken and wrong in holding him to it I insisted on taking ; him i to the man who was robbed, which was done when he admitted that he picked

his Docket but said the man was s roer, wic

tWs^oen^ed those who had spoken in his favor, that they wlu,gdhm, .round and commenced kicking him out of the camp. In t he : aflr Jrew arvolver, which was instantly knocked out of his hand A man on the bank of the river seeing the revolver ran for it, which led .to another scuffle, those who were kicking him supposing him to be a friend to Bd ney, but the man succeeded in getting the pistol, which he instantly tl

m'was found dead in a wagon on the desert this morning; he probably di^d of hunger and thirst. The Carson Rivor is about 1- >ar

44 JOURNAL, AUGUST 1850-

wide at this place, and three feet deep. Its banks are composed of ridges with narrow bottoms covered with willows and scattering cottonwood trees, with some grass. ' Q miles.

8th. Litwiler and company sold their horses this morning and started on foot. Ford, one of our men, went with them, leaving but four of us ; 'we being nearly out of provisions. A man came to our camp this morn - ing who had lost everything on the desert, his team, wagon, provisions-, and father; he had been without sleep or food for two nights and a day, and was pretty much worn out I made him a cup of coffee, and gave him some boiled corn, which having devoured, he laid himself down in the shade and slept until evening, then went in pursuit of his father again. — He was from Missouri.

A man came near being drowned near us this morning, but was saved by a person standing on the bank, who plunged in and brbught him out. He tumbled off his horse while crossing the river, which frightened him so much that he could not help himself in the least. The traders her,e buy hordes of the emigrants for from two Ibs. of flour to 10, per head. — Such is the destitution. I saw one horse, saddle and bridle, a very good one too, sold on the desert for three gallons of water.

9th. Started again this morning, taking along the Missourian who lost his father. We consumed the last of our rice this morning, kaving us reduced to six quarts of corn, and three Ibs. of dried meat for four of us. The road soon leaves the river and strikes across the desert, making the river again about two miles from the Carson River meadows. The Missourian and myself followed up the river and found a very good pack- ing trail; We killed two turtle doves which sustained us through the day. Saw snow again to-day on the tops of the Sierra Nevadas. 22 miles.

10th. Cancped on the meadows late last night, where we remain to- day to recruit our horses. Jonathan and myself went into the mountains hunting, found a few deer, but they were so wild that we could not get a shot; killed a large yellow rattle snake, a sage hare, and found an old In- dian and boy fishing, traded my pocket knife to tli/e boy for a line with 10 bone hooks I attached to it, caught about 40 small fish, and got back to camp about dark.

llth. Sunday. Still remain in camp. Fuller left us this morning, having concluded to pack through on foot with Dr. Cody, o-t' our county. A man died near us last night. He was picked up on the desert and brought thus far by some gentlemen from Davenport, Iowa. He was left there by his messmates sick, without food or water, and when found, his hands and face were so blistered by the scorching sun that the skin all pealed from them, leaving them as raw as a piece of beef. Poor fellow ! — When found he was crying in the most excruciating agony for a drop of water to quench his burning thirst. Burning at the stake would be too merciful to the hardened wretches who left him sick and helpless on those burning sands. The gentlemen who picked him up had been lying bye two 'or three days at this place expressly on his account. One of them was a physician ; although the poor fellow was a stranger to them, they tended him with all the assiduity of brothers.

12th. Started again this morning, but our road led across a sand plain

JOURNAL, AUGUST 1850.

12 miles wide, when we struck the river again, following a packing trail, thus avoiding the desert back from the river. 22 miles.

13th. Our road followed the river until noon, when we had another stretch of desert for 13 miles. The valley begins to narrow some- what 23 miles.

14th. Passed through a canon seven miles, continually crossing brooks of cold clear water from the mountains — beautiful meadows and rich land on the bottoms. Desert plains back, and still back lofty Sierra Nevadas, their sides covered with the evergreen pine, their summits with snow. — Passed some hot springs, and trading stations. The latter have little to sell but whiskey; some few of them beef. 27 miles.

15. Passed the Mormon station, saw a party of Californians and Mex- icans prospecting. There is gold this side of the mountains. Entered the seven mile Kanyon, which begins the real pass of the Sierra Nevada. A branch of the Carson River runs through it, which stream we fol- low to its head. The Kanyon is a wild, picturesque place, with perpen- dicular wall of gray granite hundreds of feet high, with lofty pines in the bottoms, and a perfect chaos of granite blocks rent from the walls above. We were compelled to camp in it with nothing for our horses to eat, which somewhat destroyed the romance of the thing; as for eating ourselves, it is so long since we have had anything to eat that we don't trouble our- selves about it 23 miles.

16th. Got out of the Kanyan into the valley, and stopped to bait. Drove about six 'miles and camped for the night ; grass abundant in this valley. J. Ingalls killed a California partridge to-day. It is larger than a partridge In the States, and finely flavored. 8 miles.

17. This morning we had the Nevadas to climb; this is the point which will stop the Pacific Railroad on this route, if anything will do it. This rise is said to be 9000 feet in 13 miles. After climbing the first moun- tain we descended to a lake, which is the head of one of the bran- ches of the Sacramento. It is the crater of an extinguished volcano. The next mountain, the Snowy Peak, is still worse than the last, although both for most part oi the way are as steep as the roof of a house ; in climbing it our road lay over the snow, which was 20 feet deep for 80 rods up its side. Having reached the top of the snowy peaks, we took a cut-off,, de- scended about two miles and camped at a small brook where we found good grass. We had the good fortune to shoot three woodchucks [ground- hogs,] this evening which, in addition to three Ibs. of flour we coaxed out of a Californian, made us feel as rich as the Rothschilds. We have not eaten for the last two weeks (all of us) as much as one man would have eaten if he could have had all that he required, consequently we are liv- ing in the greatest luxury and abundance to-night, having all we can eat. It does not take much to make man happy after all ; here we have been starving along for the last month, crossing deserts, drinking rotten, alkali or salt water, or deprived entirely, and now we've got to the top of the Nevadas,around our camp fire amid snow drifts,with plenty of good water and three woodchucks for three of us, and we are the happiest mortals alive ; we seem to have forgotten that we ever suffered privation. 16 miles.

18th. Killed another woodchuck this morning; begin to feel as if we are getting into a land of plenty again. Passed a small lake at the foot

JOURNAL, AUGUST 1850.

of the snowy peak, which was well filled with spotted trout W« madfe a mistake and took a wrong trail this morning, after passing the lake which took us over some tremendous granite ridges to ascend and descend which we had great difficulty, often climbing and descending bare smooth rocks for rods at a place, the horses frequently sliding down such places on their haunches. We found good grass in the ravines, which was some compensation for the badness of the route. We got out to the road about dark, and reached Leek, Springs where we found some grass, and camped. 18 miles.

19th. Our road lay along the summit of a ridge covered with heavy pine and cedar forests, but no grass, and but little water. Had nothing for our horses to eat but brush this evening. A man was shot just back of us. A trader had left the road to look for grass and water, when com- ing to a fallen tree by a thicket, several men rose up from behind it and snapped a gun at him, which did not go off, but the trader's revolver did , tumbling one of them into the bushes, and the trader went off too, before they could make another attempt. 28 miles.

20th. We Passed the forks of the Weaver Creek and Hang- town road, but got on a wrong trail which we followed nearly to the Wea- ver Creek. Found plenty of grass and cut enough to supply our horses for the night, which would have cost us in Hangtown about five dollars. Met some miners who, not knowing the country much better than we did, di- rected us to go back by the way of Johnson's Ranch, which was about 12 miles, when we were by the right route, only seven miles from Hanglown. We reached the diggings at the he&d of the emigrant ravine, three'miles from Hangtown, about nine o'clock, P. M., and camped. 20 miles.

21st. Leaving packs and horses in camp we entered the town this mor- ning, where we found great numbers of our friends and county people, as also my brother, who had reached the mines 25 days ahead of us, having started on the Council Bluffs route at the same date that I did.

3 miles,

CALIFORNIA-GENERAL REMARKS.

Having reached the mines, I shall close with some remarks in relation to the country, Ac. California is a country of contrarieties in every re pecL Probably there is no country so much belied, for, generally, tl who admire the country and speak in its praise, tell the truth m such way that It amounts to a falsehood, when judged by the lights which his audiences in the States will have, to enable them to understand him. while the man who has been unfortunate gives it the same false when detracting from its merits, and what is worse, both parties spea erally the truth! but unless his auditors have been here they cannot tain a correct idea of the country. It is the best country in the world, and at the same time the worst, as every man will hnd that cor according to the circumstances in which he may chance to be pla is thought that the diggings are exhausted, but from observation I satisfied that so far from this being the case, their riches have only began to be discovered, and although the gulch and ravine diggings are pretty much worked out, yet all those mountains and hills composed < and earth, will be found to contain riches of great va hie on the surface of rock upon which they rest. Mining hereafter will be attended with greater expense, on account of the depth which the miner wi 11 have to die to reach the gold, but there will be rich gold diggings in California . fo: a hundred years to come, in my opinion. Great sickness has pre' thro' the fall in the mines, there being buried from Hangtown alone about 13 a day At the least calculation, one fourth of the emigration oi have, or will die, by the first of January 1851. Miners at this time a eetting but small pay, very many not more than paying board. S^^eher^^ttb.tV^.M^^W to 20 dollars a day, but instead of those prices, they are glad to get from four tc per day, and very many do not make but half that sum. Yet neyerthj- less California is "a good country, and if people would move tc their families, and make their homes here, in a few years they wouli

rlCThePoTd adage, " a roling stone gathers no moss," is exemplified every day here The same restless spirit that prompted men to come, keeps them constantly on the move while here. Many who are making three to six dollars a day, work until they obtain two or three hundi dollars, then hearing of richer diggings otherwheres, pull up a sure work and travel until they have spent what they have got anC month or two in prospecting, when they become strapped, to use a ite expression here, and are ^compelled to work for less pay, until 1 a raise, when the same spirit puts them in motion again, men who have been here two years, and have sometimes had a tl dollars on hand, that, when I saw them, had not a dollar, and were pelled to obtain credit to enable them to live for a time until they c make a raise again, and all the result of this restless spirit In my o ion one half of the aggregate time of the miners of California is spei

CALIFORNIA IN 1850 — 51.

traveling from one section of the mines to another. California may be properly divided into four ranges, or divisions. The first, the alluvial bot- toms of the rivers or bays, and the plains, which comprise all of the ajrri- ^Itural country in the State, the areaof which would probably amount to -je half of the area of the State of Illinois. This range is exceeding fertile, probably equal to any soil on the earth. The climate is excellent the air pure and healthy, neither too cool nor too hot, and well calcula^ ted for the products of a temperate climate, as well as many of tronical Orass grows on the bottoms all the year, and farming may be carried or all months of the winter, if not prevented by the rain. No frosts ever nin the crops, and the seasons present a perpetual spring. The plains are somewhat elevated from the bottoms, gently rolling, and resemble our prairies, ihe soil is fertile, but cannot be cultivated without irrigation in the summer, although crops are raised by sowing in November and De- cember which enables them to get so far advanced by the commence- ment of the dry season as to avoid the drouth. In the spring they are covered with a great variety of flowers, wild oats, and clover. The tim- on this range consists of live oak, and various oaks resembling white burr and black oak, besides various shrubs. The second range is the low- r hill or mountain range, which is also the gold range. The soil would admit of cultivation if it could be irrigated, but this would be impos- le from the nature of the country. It will be only available for its gold,

il win n«7£ few *? °Plni°U' althouSh ^ business of gathering

:t will not be as profitable hereafter as it has been The timber in t range consists of the various kinds of oak and pine', wiU J^cedar and spruce; ,t u i no valuable, but will answer the wants of this range for *he The third range is the timber range, which in time will be the most valuable part of California Probably no part of the world will fur- nish such pme and cedar timber. The valleys are filled with trees from two to three hundred feet high, clear from limbs nearly to their tops, and of the best quahty for lumber; many of the trees from five to ten feet in imeteratthefoot. I saw a pine iree said to be 11, and a cedar 15 feet hro , and have no doubt but such was the fact, They can only be got out of e mountains by railways or the rivers at flood time, consequently it will be some years before the attention of the Cailfornian will be turned to this •ranch of trade. But little gold has been found in this range, or proba- bly ever will be, as the quartz veins, the original deposit of gold, if they exist at all in it, lie deep under the granite ridges

The next range and the last lies upon the bald peaks of the Sierra Ne- vadas, and is too much elevated even for timber to grow to any extent, r summits are covered eternally with snow, and their sides, where un- .overed, present a barren shingle, or ragged walls of lava. But little gold

'££a \ t Mnsf' and J know °f n° use °f u in the econ°my *c

ture except to hold the world together. The valleys fit for cultivation, are I that vegetation cannot grow, except grass, which is of better qual- ity where it can grow, than in the two next lower ranges. This range was also the district of volcanoes, the extinct craters of which indent the moun- in every direction, and are now generally lakes and ponds forming

the heads Of t,hfi vannna c *>-.•....,, m° _ • ., • 1

r.'ALTFORMA I.V 1850 51.

ragged perpendicular walls of lava rise thousands of feet high, black :i:i 1 gloomy, as it cooled off, when thrown from the bowels of the earth. Tin- oast side of the mountains on the descent to the Carson Valley is well tim bered, and furnishes some good gold diggings, although not very much prospected. The Carson Valley is perhaps one of the most desirable far- ming districts in California. The bottom is very fertile, and covered with a heavy growth of wild clover, wheat, oats, <tc. The plains by the side of the bottoms are barren deserts covered with wild sage, and utterly worthless. The climate is very favorable to the growth of the cereal grains, but the nights are too cold for corn. It is best calculated for stock growing, and is capable of supporting a population of many thousands. — The air is very pure, and the water power and water very abundant, and of excellent quality, the valley being well supplied with numerous small clear streams of ice cold water, running from the mountains across the valley, and emptying into the Carson River. The California railroad, if built by way of the ^uth Pass of the Rocky Mountains, will follow up the valley of this river, in which case this fertile valley will soon teem with populous villages of civilized men, instead of the few squalid, thieving diggers who are now its sole tenants.

The gold digging of California is much less profitable than it was in 1849, the shallow ravine diggings having been pretty much worked out, but there is no doubt but that the hills still contain inexhaustible supplies, which though attended with greater expense in obtaining, will neverthe less pay well for working, when the same shall be worked by a permanent settled population, aided by mechanical science. It is folly in my opinion for a man to leave home and family, with all his home interests, to go to California for a mere temporary sojourn for one or two years. A man should take his frmily and household gods with him, and make a perma- nent settlement, which would aid him very materially in his business pros pects. He would then remain in one location, and would consequently save both time and money. And there is another gain in locating more permanently, that is in acquiring a better knowledge of his location. Ev ery section of the mines has its distinct characteristic, and a person hav- ing learnt the location and features of gold deposits in one section, in re- moving to another will have to learn this anew. When this fact is taken into consideration it will be quite evident that a man will always succeed best \vhen permanently located. Any man of sober, industrious habits, who may make his home in California, will in 10 years, with ordinary luck and health, and the vicissitudes of life, acquire a fortune sufficiently aniple to maintain hitpself for the balance of his life in the old states, but many who nave resided for that length of time in California.will be unwil- ling to leave its beautiful climate logo back to the old states to liv« in their variable climates.

Many conjectures have been put forth as to the cause of the depos- its of native gold on the surface, and many have asserted that it came there by being thrown out of the craters of volcanoes. This Hea is now pretty much exploded amongst intelligent miners. It is evident that the gold originally lay in the quartz mines, and has been loosened by the ac- tion of fire decomposing the quartz, and by abrasion of (he atmosphere and water. In evidence of this it will be observed that in those sections

i-ALIFOKXIA IN 1850 — 51.

richest in melted or deposit gold, there are but few gold bearing quartz veins, and those bearing evidence of great heat, while in those locations rich in quartz veins, there is but little surface gold, and that very fine, and generally found on the bars of the rivers, and along their banks. The whole country has at some day been in a state of fusion, as the quantity of cinders found in the gulches bear ample testimony, and in those sec- tions where the heat was greatest, the quartz became intirely decomposed, allowing the gold to drop like molten lead upon the slate and granite sub- stratum, where when undisturbed by the action of water, it now remains imbedded in the rock. This is not mere opinion.but a statement made from personal observation in working in deep diggings, where it was evident Jiat the gold had not been disturbed since it was melted from the quartz veins, I having freeque.ntly taken pieces from the slate that fitted the in- sterstices as closely as it would have done if I had melted it myself and turned it in to cool.

The best mining country appears to be a strip of land about 30 or 40 miles wide, running north and south, or nearly so, and extending the whole length of California, and as I have been informed on reliable au- thority as far north as Puget's Sound, where gold has been found in small quantities. This information I had from a gentleman of intelligence and observation, from Missouri, Mr. Sherwin, who spent the summer of 1850 at that place. The quartz veins also lie in this general course,one of which, may be traced hundreds of miles. No great amount of gold has been found out of this district, although it is possible that in time it may be;- but in my opinion, if the original stratum of quartz veins extended back iiitotLe niountains,that it there ceases to be the surface, and becomes the substratum; if this proves to be the case, there is no estimating the min- eral wealth of California. It will take ages to exhaust the supply. The supposition that this stratum does reach back of the now known district, under the mountains, is a reasonable one, as the rock in view, generally, on the tirst range or plains, is slate ; in the second range, quartz veins res- ting in and on slate, in the third range granite ridges, with occasional spur quartz veins in view, and on the fourth or summit range, either gran- ite, or molten rock, or lava cooled off, as it was cast out of the numerous extinguished craters,California furnishes a great field for study to the geol- ogist, and much may be learned which is not now known, and which will Le useful in developing her vast resources.

Many suppose that gold was not known here until discovered by the Americans. This I am disposed to doubt, but whether known to civilized man, 'or only the native digger, I would not hazard an opinion. A discov- ery which occurred immediately under my own observatian, satisfies me that the gold had been sought for many years before that time. A mi- ner in sinking a hole at the head of the Spanish Ravine, which had been one of the richest in California, found a plain gold ring of rude workman- ship, soldered together with silver, or some white metal, about four feet from the surface of the ground. On the inside of it was a cross stamped very legibly, indicating that it was made by a Christian. This was in new diggings, where the earth Lad never been disturbed so far as appearances would indicate, and moreover he found but one small piece of gold besides that in the claim. How long it would take to form four

CALI10RMA IX 1S50 — 51.

feet of solid earth, or how it came there, no one can say, but certainly it must take a great number of years for that depth of soil to form, and the ring itself shows workmanship of an early and rude age.

The limited space of this work necessarily preclude%me from going in lengthened detail of incidents and description of California, but in closing I must remark that California, from its variety of climate, which is so great that a man may walk in a day from the region of snow through a temper- ate climate to another of perpetual summer, where the flowers cover the earth, and render the air fragrant with their perfume. From its great re- sources in gold and other mineral treasures, and its boundless forests of pine and cedar, from its great amount of water power, and its great agri- cultural and commercial advantages, is yet destined to be the first State in the Union, as it now is the most pleasant to reside in, and it behooves our government to so cement the bonds of union in commercial interests — while now cemented by the feelings of "Padre pais" — with a belt of iron from ocean to ocean, with the iron horse with the sinew of steel and breath of fire for a messenger, that the time may not come, when the diverse in- terests of the Pacific states may induce their inhabitants to form a gov- ernment of their own.

It is a well known fact in history, that a country divided by a griil ni tural barrier, cannot remain long under one government, but that th^ir several interests call for separate governments. The great natural barr er between the Atlantic and Pacific States is, the Rocky mnntains .ind the deserts, which can only be overcome by railroads, which will bring the two sides of the continent within a few days of each other, and nvvi-'r much now useless territory available, either in an agricultural, manufactu- ring or commercial point of view. Although the country, from th>^ 'Mis- souri river to the Pacific, is quite as well adapted to the building of rail- roads if we except the Nevada Mountains, and this exception would no<

apply to the Oregon route — as any of the eastern States, yet no private company can, or should be allowed to build such road, but it should b.-- i national' work, and subject to the regulation of the government, for the good of the people, when completed. If it should be built by a private company, it would become one of the greatest and worst monopolies in the country, rivaling the British East India company monopoly. This may not be so evident to a person who has not traveled the route, but believe that every thinking man who has traveled it will agree with nv This is a matter which it were well for our legislators to consider well and act upon before it is too late, for it will soon be found that those routes now opening through Central America and the Isthmus, will not answer the wants of the growing commerce with the Pacific, and every year is oe menting the bonds of interest between California and Oregon, :ind the Spanish countries on the Pacific.

But I must bring my work to a close, and bid farewell to Caiir'jru i capped peaks, its beautiful valleys, its flowety plains, its rapula river* and bro»d Uyn Farewell \ It was with a feeling of sadness, that I turned, on tyie last rang* of look back' towards those busy valleys teeming with life and energy, and whan on iho planks of the vessel crossing the bar into the broad ocean, I turned to look for the last time on the Queen City of the Pacific, embosomed in hil'.n, by UK» •fwktuift wa«or» r<" the Bay. But home, family and fn-iyis, -iull mo away. PfciWMll ReMW .'

Improved Farms fur Bale,

A AM A A' CHANCE FOR EMIGRANTS AND OTHERS

ir/,sy//.\v,- TO PURCHASE IMPROVED FARMS. 'I'hi' undersigned, Real Estate Agent, has constantly at his disposal, Im- proved Farms of various size and quality of improvement, which he offers lor sale to Emigrants and others as cheap, if not cheaper than can be bought in the Western country. These farms are located in and about Antioch, Lake county, Illinois; alsj in Mctlenry county, 111., and Kenosha county, Wisconsin.

They arc situated iu one of the most desirable sections of the western country, arc mostly opening timber and small prahie.combining the advan- tages of excellent land, easy of cultivation, with abundance of timber and fuel, and good water on the same farm. The country is well watered by the Fox and O'Plain rivers and sheir branches, and by numerous small clear lakes of excellent water, well stocked with fish.

The country around is one of the best stock and grain countries in the world, and from its proximity to Lake Michgan, and to the valuable mar- kets, which its numerous part towns afford, and the cheapness of improved firms, the emigrant cannot find a more desirable country to locate in. — All who are desirous of purchasing a farm will find it for their interest to give the undersigned a call at Autiooh, Lake county, Illinois, before buying elsewhere.

Antioeh is a flourishing village, situated in the north-west corner of the county, four miles east of Fox River, and one mile south from the Wiscon- sin State line. It has two dry goods stores, one shoe store, one hotel, a saw-mill, and vorious mechanics, and more are wanted. Chicago is. dis- tant 48 miles south and east; Waukegan 17 miles south and east; Kenosha 18 miles north and east; Racine 25 miles north and east, Milwaukee 42 miles north and cast, consequently Antioch has five lake cities within a day's drive of it There are five flouring mills, and five saw-mills within 12 miles of the village, two of which and three saw-mills are within fix miles of it. Besides these, a com- pany has been formed and a part of the stock subscribed for a steam flouring mill to be built in the- village, and a Plank Road is in contempla- tion of being built directly from Waukegan to Antioch. The country around being removed from the raw winds near Lake Michigan, and at the same time near enough to it for all practical wants, is one of the most de- sirable to locate in that the emigrant, seeking a new home in the far west, will be able to find, combining all the advantages of proximity to good markets, and good lands, good society, and everything that the heart of man can desire. Remember to call on the undersigned, who will give you thn eest bargains in farms that can be got in this country.

The following is the route, from different cities on the Lake to Antioch: From Chicago to Dutchman's Point, 12 miles; to Indian Creek 26 miles; to Libertyville '3~2 miles; to Antioch 48 miles. .

From Waukegauto the O'Plain bridge, four miles; to Milburn 11 miles; to Antioch 1*7. miles. From Kenosha to Jackson's Tavern at the O'Plain river, 12 miles; to Brass Balls 16 miles; to Antioch 22 miles I via. Bristol nearer, but not so good a road.)

From Rucine to Martin Stand, (Ing-all's Hotel) on Pleasant Prairie, nine

miles; to Jackson's Tavern 18 miles; to Brass Balls 22 miles, to Autiud: 28 miles.

From Milwaukee to Ive's Grove in Yorkville, 20 miles (throuo-h the Milwaukee woods; To Paris 29 miles; to Brass Balls 37 miles; to Antioch 43 miles.

(Another route quite as good, but distance greAr, is by way of Ra- cine, and another by Rochester on the Fox river. Antioch is 25 miles from Rochester, Wis.)

Antioch, June 1852. E. S. INGALLS.

E. S. INGALLS,

Attorney and Counsellor at Law, County Justice of the Peace, Notary Public, Commissioner of Deeds, <fcc., for Wisconsin, and General Land Agent Will give prompt attention to all business entrusted to his care, in Northern Illinois and Southern Wisconsin.

Farms constantly on hand to suit purchasers, of all descriptions, sizes and improvements. Conveyancing done to order. Prompt attention will be given to the execution of deeds, &c., and the taking of depositions to be used in any part of Wisconsin, his seal of office as Commissioner of Deeds being legal authentication of his official acts throughout said State.

Collecting attended to with promptness. Office corner of Main and Clay streets, Antiocb, Lake county, Illinois.

JOHN H. ELLIOTT,

^ Wholesale and retail dealer in Dry Goods, Groceries, and Crockery.

leeps constantly on hand an extensive assortment of every variety of Silk, roollen, Worsted and cotton goods,Groceries,Crockery and Hardware,ever called for in the western country. Will purchase, or receive in exchange for goods; horses, cattle, wool, grain, or any other product for tranship- ment at as good prices as may be obtained at the Lake ports. Store un- der the Antioch Hall, Main street. Antioch, Lake Co., 111.

GEORGE HALE, e county, Illlinois; and Dri

particular attention to drafting in its various branches. Office Main street. Antioeh, Lake co., Illinois.

LEROY D. GAGE,

Justice of the Peace, Insurance and collecting Agent. Will give prompt attention to all business entrusted to his care. Office corner of Main and Clay streets.

Antioch, Lake co. Illinois.

WM. H. RING,

Dealer in Dry Goods, Groceries, Crockery, Hard^re, and all goods used in the western country. Keeps constantly on iMd every variety of goods and wares that can be called for. Prompt attention always given to customers. All kinds of produce taken* in exchange for goods. Store on Main street, Antioch, Lake co. Illinois.

GAGE & LEWIS, Physicians & Surgeons. Particular attention given to optical diseases

I.EROY D. GAGE. DANIEL LEWIS.

Office corner of Main and Clay streets. Antioch, Lake co. Illinois.

WILLIAM L. STEVENS,

Attorney and Counsellor at Law. Will attend promptly to all busi- ness entrusted to his care in Lake and McHenry counties, Illinois, and Racine and Kenosha counties, Wisconsin. Office corner of Main & Clay sts.

Antiocb, Lake co. Illinois.

J. B. RICE,

Architect. Will give prompt attention to all applications for drafts and plans for buildings of every kind. Office on Main street. Antioch, Lake co. Illinois.

PARKS , FREEMAN & HAINES, Attornies and Counsellors at Law, and Solicitors in Chancery.

Waukegan, Illinois.

Will practice in the Courts of Lake, Cook, and McHenry counties. — Prompt attention will be given to the collecting and securing of demands in Illinois and Wisconsin. Also to the sale and purchase of real estate, in- vestigation of titles, payment of taxes, <fec. The best of reference wilt ba

c. c. PARKS,

JAS. FREEMAN,

1 i If

CARD, AND JOB

OFFICE iy DEWEY'S BRICK BLOCK,

"& -TIHGTOK STSIIT "" UKEGAN, ILLINOIS. '

ie above establishment respectfully announce jy^-e constantly making addition, to tifeir S3

. Job Type, Bordering Ac,,

execute every variety of Book, CM* and Job pnntin^ ^r office in the WesV and on reasonable Cf

*T™i.\Gor,» AIVD i^r COLORS

;ieand.t correspondingp.ee, PrintSg done

e country cither for Blanks or Job work will